We all know that the best way to really know a city isn’t to go to the central square or major museums, or even the most tourist-trodden neighborhoods. What’s more interesting is discovering the up-and-coming neighborhoods where local creatives are settling in and setting up shop. 
 
 It’s especially important in cities where overtourism is becoming a problem, such as Barcelona and Amsterdam. Sure, walk down La Rambla or explore the inner canal belt, but then get out into the places where local life is really happening. 
 
 I asked some of my favorite travel experts for their tips on the best neighborhoods to explore right now. Here’s what’s on their radar. 
 
 Barcelona: Sants 
 
 Earlier this year, the influential food travel and publishing company Culinary Backstreets declared 2018 the year of the neighborhood. Cofounder Ansel Mullins singles out Sants in Barcelona as one of his favorites. “Most locals know the Sants area as a place they pass through on their way to Barcelona’s main train station, but to us it represents something much deeper: a neighborhood where we can still experience the city’s original soul—culinary and otherwise,” wrote their local correspondent. “While other parts of Barcelona, especially its historic center, have had to contend with the effects of the city’s growing popularity, Sants has somehow managed to stay under the radar, allowing it to keep much of its traditional charm and way of life, while also being an inviting area for new ventures to give it a go. This is a place where you can still find old bodegas with wooden casks filled with bulk wine for sale, homey vermuterias where locals gather to chat over seafood tapas and family-run restaurants…. There’s a wonderful mix of traditional spots that have been around for generations and new restaurants and tapas bars opened up by innovative young chefs escaping high rents in the center of town.” 
 
 Washington, D.C.: Navy Yard 
 
 “The Navy Yard area is the fastest growing neighborhood in Washington D.C., and it is slated to develop 3 million square feet for residential and office buildings, pedestrian space and retail and dining for 2030—as well as its first hotel, the Thompson,” says Melissa Biggs Bradley, the founder of Indagare. “With its waterfront location, industrial infrastructure and historic roots (it was established in 1799), the Navy Yard—or “the Yards”—has a cool factor that most other D.C. neighborhoods lack.” While the main attraction is still the Nationals’ baseball park, which hosts not only games but also popular events like a craft beer festival, the restaurant scene is gaining a strong following. Top tables include the microbrewery Blue Jacket, the upscale Italian Osteria Morini, the internationally focused Chloe and the highly inventive Ice Cream Jubilee, which offers grown-up flavors like honey lemon lavender and gin & tonic sorbet. 
 
 Amsterdam: Amsterdam Noord 
 
 “Just 15 minutes by ferry from the city’s central station, Amsterdam Noord is a neighborhood on the rise, and rightfully so,” says Tom Marchant, the founder of Black Tomato. “Set amid old trams and multicolored shipping containers is NDSM, a hub for independent art galleries and lively watering holes. This provides serious visual endorphins and is an Instagrammers' heaven.” Hotel Faralda, which has three rooms with “serious Wes Anderson vibes” suspended in a towering crane, is a quirky landmark in the NDSM community. And IJ Hallen is renowned as one of Europe’s largest and most unique flea markets. 
 
 Cartagena: Getsemani 
 
 Most tourists stay within the walls of the old city, but Biggs Bradley recommends this neighborhood just outside the walls. “It offers an authentic look at what life in the city is really like for locals,” she says. “Anchored by the Plaza Trinidad, a lively public square, Gestemani is not yet fully gentrified, and it is inhabited by families that have lived in the same house for multiple generations. Thus, there’s a very strong local culture and identity here.” Recent years have brought some stylish new additions, including cool cafes like Café del Mural, bars like Demente, tiny restaurants like Caffé Lunático, Malagana, and La Cocina de Pepina. 
 
 Johannesburg: Maboneng 
 
 “A no-go zone until the end of Apartheid in 1994, Johannesburg’s Maboneng has since transformed into a lively urban area with blossoming art and culinary scenes,” says Biggs Bradley. The compact neighborhood is known for cultural attractions like the Museum of African Design, Arts on Main—a complex that was previously a series of dilapidated buildings and now has many cool galleries—restaurants and boutiques. The culinary offerings are widely diverse, with restaurants that specialize in everything from Ethiopian cuisine to health food. “One of the best spots for a meal is Che Argentine Grill, which offers delicious specialties like empanadas and a live tango band on weeknights.” 
 
 Tbilisi: Plekhanov 
 
 We can also call 2018 the year of Georgia. The former Soviet republic has become among the trendiest places to visit, and the capital of Tbilisi is always the first and last stop. The old town is charming, but both Mullins and Jonny Bealby of Wild Frontiers are more excited about Plekhanov. “It’s an area where native Tbilisians traditionally live, renowned for its old-style houses with beautiful doorways,” says Bealby. “It recently became more fashionable when the main avenue, Agmashenebeli, was renovated and especially when the Fabrika space opened. Once a Soviet sewing factory, this multifunctional space now houses cafes, bars, studios, shops and a hostel. This area is a mixture of young creatives and tourists, and there’s live music most evenings.” 
 
 Panama City: Casco Viejo 
 
 “In the 1990s, Casco Viejo was one of the city’s most dangerous neighborhoods, overrun by gangs, full of violence and turf wars,” notes Biggs Bradley. Now a staircase in the boutique American Trade Hotel has wallpaper that shows some of the original graffiti that was found in the abandoned buildings. “The fact that gritty gang slogans are today used as decoration in a designer hotel goes to show just how far Casco Viejo has come. The neighborhood buzzes with restoration and new openings, as the developers tackle building after colonial building.” Some can’t-miss addresses: Donde José, a chef’s table restaurant that’s one of the most upscale in the city; Fonda La Sexta, a pioneering restaurant that employs low-income women chefs; La Concordia, a new hotel with a great rooftop bar for sunset drinks; and Karavan, a one-stop shop for Panamanian-made gifts. 
 
 Saigon: District 5 
 
 “Most visitors to Saigon spend their time in Districts 1 and 2,” explains Andrea Ross of Wild Frontiers. “However, to get away from the crowds and have a more local experience, we like to head to District 5. Here you’ll find Saigon’s Chinatown, as well as unique temples like Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda, a colorful Taoist temple frequented by locals. The Binh Tay market is a local marvel, selling everything from fresh goods to car radios. At night the streets come alive with bars and restaurants offering live music. It feels like a throwback to old Saigon, and is a fun way to escape the more manicured central districts.” 
 
 Athens: Keramikos 
 
 This district is another favorite of Culinary Backstreets. Their Athens correspondent wrote, “Just a ten-minute walk from Athens’ buzzing historic center, the laidback Keramikos neighborhood seems to live in a magical world of its own,” writes their correspondent. “It’s a place where old and new, Greece’s storied past and often turbulent present, tradition and forward-looking creativity all coexist happily together. At the weekly street market, the neighborhood comes alive in a riot of sights, smells and flavors…. In recent years Keramikos’s low rents and old-time feel have lured creative young Athenians to the area, where they have opened inventive restaurants, bars and cafés along with galleries and theaters. Joining Keramikos’s rich trove of existing old-school establishments, these new spots have helped create one of the Athens’ most exciting dining and cultural scenes.” 
 
 Seoul: Seongsu-dong 
 
 Marchant calls this neighborhood the “Brooklyn of Seoul, a buzzy hive for all things creative. The graffiti-adorned industrial warehouses have been revived as trendy hotspots, appealing to hipsters, photographers and foodies alike. House of Collections, an art group based in Seoul and New York City, has helped Seongsu-dong establish a thriving arts scene.” The most recent exhibition, Blowing Romance in Water Garden, was an Instagram hit. There are also eccentric and sustainability-focused eateries like Daelim Warehouse and Café Onion. 
 
 Chicago: Pilsen 
 
 “Featuring streets lined with hip galleries and walls decorated with colorful murals dating from the 1970s, the Pilsen neighborhood on Chicago’s Lower West Side is a nest of cutting-edge culture and art,” says Biggs Bradley. “It’s been fostered by successive waves of Eastern European and Mexican immigrants, in addition to local artists and students, who have molded this fascinating area over the past century and a half. At the National Museum of Mexican Art, the 10,000-piece collection showcases the work of Mexican and Mexican-American artists. And there are a growing number of performance venues, art studios and trendy bars like the popular Punch House. 
 
 Cape Town: Kalk Bay 
 
 “A seaside haven slightly removed from the bustle of Cape Town, the former fishing village Kalk Bay is attracting more than just the local surfer community” says Marchant. “Blanketed with quaint cafes, rustic fishing boats and colorful storefronts, this vibrant harbor neighborhood is recently the talk of the city. Olympia Café, a standby for locals, is an ideal launching pad for a day of False Bay coastline exploration. An intricate origami installation created by Kalk Bay local Sanae Sawada decorates the walls of the iconic café, which is just steps from the charming seal-invaded wharf.” ||||| The Grid: Exploring the Pilsen neighborhood 
 
 Welcome to “The Grid,” our in-depth look at Chicago’s neighborhoods. Today’s stop: Pilsen. 
 
 The Pilsen neighborhood is 4.5 miles from downtown Chicago on the city’s lower west side. Nestled along the busy railroad lines that run along 16th street, Pilsen has long been a first-stop neighborhood for many immigrants. First, Bohemians were drawn to the neighborhood in the 1800s in part by a construction project to build what is now Ogden Avenue. Then Mexican immigrants began to settle there starting in the 1950s. Today those working class roots are still a big part of this busy neighborhood that now also includes a very vibrant cultural scene focused on Mexican-American art, food, traditions and more. 
 
 Our story includes a fun-filled video of Ji Suk Yi talking to local residents about things to do in Pilsen and a detailed article to help you plan your own visit. We’ll also explore: 
 
 Pilsen’s Vibrant Art and Culture 
 
 Neighborhood History 
 
 Festivals and Special Events 
 
 Where to eat and drink 
 
 Shopping 
 
 …and much more! 
 
 This story on Pilsen is one in a series by the Sun-Times focused on the interesting people and places in Chicago’s many neighborhoods, in hopes that all will be inspired to explore our city. We have engaging videos and a comprehensive story – all curated by the Sun-Times to help provide you with the most current and meaningful information about the important and best things to do in this and each neighborhood we visit. 
 
 We’re proud to welcome Baird & Warner as presenting sponsor of “The Grid.” Leading our video adventure is Sun-Times program host, Ji Suk Yi. 
 
 Ji visits Pilsen 
 
 
 
 The minute the train pulls into the Pink Line’s 18th Street “L” stop, you get the sense of what Pilsen is all about. 
 
 The station boasts colorful, Mexican-themed murals – creative collaborations between artist Francisco Mendoza and students from Gallery 37 and the Mexican Museum of National Art. The explosion of color and art is a jolt of energy especially during colder, gray days. (We have a lot of those here.) 
 
 Mendoza, who passed away in 2012, was one of the most prolific artists to leave his mark on his beloved neighborhood. A former teacher at what is now called Orozco Elementary, his legacy lives on, not only in his public artwork but in his influence, imprinted on his students who have grown up and continued his work in the arts. 
 
 Vibrant is the first word that comes to mind when describing the neighborhood of Pilsen. 
 
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 RELATED: A guide to street art in Pilsen 
 
 There is the feast for the eyes that starts at the CTA station and continues along 16th Street and various parts of the neighborhood to the brightly painted doors along 18th Street and beyond. Not only a visual feast, there are the sounds, smells and tastes that contribute to the rhythm of bustling daily life. The result is an almost palpable heart beat of Pilsen. 
 
 The vibrancy isn’t just painted on the surface but runs deep, down to the roots of what gives Pilsen its identity. Geographically, Pilsen isn’t as large as many Chicago neighborhoods, but it’s densely packed with restaurants, cafes, galleries and shops – the majority, mom and pop establishments and multi-generational. 
 
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 Graphic by Tanveer Ali/Sun-Times 
 
 While Pilsen is currently known for its Latin-American – specifically Mexican-American – culture, but it didn’t start that way. 
 
 History 
 
 Pilsen was initially settled by German and Irish immigrants in the mid-19th century, followed by a large influx of Czechs fleeing the oppression of the Austrian empire. The Czech settlers gave the neighborhood its name. Plzen or Pilsen is a city in western Bohemia in the Czech Republic and the story goes that a Bohemian owned a restaurant/tavern by the name of “City of Plzn” which became how people began to refer to the neighborhood. (Maybe this will come to mind the next time you’re ordering a Pilsner Urquell beer at the bar.) 
 
 While Pilsen mostly survived the 1871 Great Fire intact, it wasn’t a great place to live, with its low grounds, poor plumbing and tendency to flood. Due to Pilsen’s supply of cheap immigrant labor and the oppressive, dangerous working conditions, labor unions grew rapidly, eventually sparking demonstrations and strikes. Pilsen was one of the hot beds for the nationwide movement for workers’ rights (like the eight-hour work day) that would eventually lead to the May riots and the Haymarket Affair in 1886. 
 
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 Many of the blue collar jobs began to leave the area after the Great Depression and second and third generation Czech and Eastern European immigrant children were able to pursue lives outside of factory jobs, many moving to the suburbs, all of which resulted in a decline in industry and Pilsen’s population. 
 
 Starting in the late 1950s, there was an influx of Latino residents to Pilsen after many were displaced by construction of the Eisenhower Expressway. (Today, Pilsen is 80% Latino, the 2nd largest Latino population in the city. Little Village is first.) The demographic shift happened quickly to majority Mexican, but for a time the two groups shared the neighborhood. In 1962, a fair on West 19th Street celebrated both cultures, serving Mexican pancakes and Czech pastries. The two groups formed a united front when expansion of the University of Illinois’ Chicago campus threatened the neighborhood again in the 1960s. 
 
 Pilsen today 
 
 Learning about the struggles of the Pilsen immigrants and the physically demanding, back breaking blue-collar work, the legacy of community activism and love of the arts helped me understand the foundation for Pilsen’s identity, resiliency and grassroots organizations. 
 
 Historian Peter Alter from the Chicago History Museum summed up this parallel, “Many Czech immigrants and Mexican immigrants faced similar struggles in the workplace related to poor working conditions, long hours, and low pay. Both immigrant groups had similar responses relying on family and community while staunchly supporting labor organizing and political solutions.” 
 
 Currently, as Pilsen undergoes more growth and non-Latinos move into the neighborhood (attracted by its quality of life and amenities), debate and discussions around development, affordable housing and gentrification continue among its citizens. 
 
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 The desire to balance growth without pricing out (through rising property taxes and increasing rent) the people that made Pilsen so special and culturally vibrant is a frequent topic of conversation and concern. Some of the community groups focused on these issues today include: The Pilsen Alliance, Frida K Community Organization, The Resurrection Project and the Pilsen Neighbors Community Council. 
 
 Adding to that conversation is National Museum of Mexican Art President, Carlos Tortolero, who immigrated when he was three years old and grew up about a mile and half from where the museum now stands. 
 
 “Things change in life, and life’s about change. But what happens when gentrification happens … the most important group in the community is the community,” said Tortolero, “And they should be part of the process, but they’re never part of the process, so that’s the problem. If it’s going to be done right, everyone should be at the table and everyone should say what should happen, in some manner it has to be good for the people already there.” 
 
 Pilsen trivia Pilsen- especially the designated historic district- is a perfect example of Chicago’s grid system. It is almost completely filled with straight east/west & north/south streets and just one major diagonal street: South Blue Island Avenue. 
 
 The architecture of Pilsen continue to reflect it’s early inhabitants, the Bohemians, who based on styles from their homeland, such as mixed-use buildings and having homes, shops and factories close to each other, often on the same blocks. 
 
 Dvorak Park is named after the Czech composer Anton Dvorak and designed by renown landscaper Jens Jensen in 1905. It is now home to many community events including the Fiesta Del Sol. 
 
 There were many industries in those early years including at least two prompted by the abundance of grain in the city: bake houses which made all sorts of baked goods and breweries. There were also a number of taverns serving up Bohemian pilsner beer. In fact, Pilsen was thought to have the most taverns in the city in the early 19th century. 
 
 The National Register of Historic Places says the Bohemians were the builders of Pilsen, but the Mexicans were its preservationists. When the neighborhood became majority-Mexican, the community put a great deal of effort in renovating old buildings and fighting urban development, ensuring the neighborhood kept its historic character. 
 
 The 2005 application to the U.S. Department of the Interior to make Pilsen a designated ‘historic place” is worth the read for all history & preservation buffs. Read it here. 
 
 Casa Aztlán, the famous large, three-story community center was given its name in 1970. Before it became a cultural, educational and community center for Mexican immigrants in the neighborhood, it served a similar purpose to the Bohemians. It offered art, dance and language classes as well as low-cost healthcare. The murals were notoriously painted over in June 2017 — an act met with neighborhood fury. A new mural took its place as a result of the outcry. (See photo of the destroyed mural in our slideshow). 
 
 The obelisk in Plaza Tenochtitlan at Loomis & 18th was a gift in 1997 from the then mayor of Mexico City. The Mexican Golden Eagle atop the obelisk is also on the Mexican flag. (Tenochtitlan is the name of ancient the Aztec city that Mexico City is built upon.) 
 
 To get a sense of the beautiful culture that is the foundation of Pilsen, I highly recommend any day trip include a visit to the National Museum of Mexican Art. It’s not just Mexican art but Mexican-American art and no matter your background, you’ll find the exhibits compelling. 
 
 In addition to its 10,000-piece permanent collection, there is also a variety of programming from workshops for children, to symposiums and programs on dance, theater, music and literature. Also, no legitimate excuses can be claimed, because it is free admission every day of the year! 
 
 “I think it’s important that Chicago have a home for this fantastic culture … to preserve, conserve, and present this culture for our own community; at the same time we want to share it with everybody” said Tortolero. “You know everybody had said to us ‘you can’t put an art museum in a working class neighborhood, and it can’t be free,’ and they were wrong.” 
 
 While the museum is the anchor of Pilsen’s art scene, public displays of free art are all around the neighborhood. 
 
 Murals on private homes, businesses along 18th Street, alleyways and brightly painted doors are abundant. Each is a colorful and thought-provoking surprise around many turns on a walk. Each tells a story, and there are a multitude of artists. An entire day can be spent walking through Pilsen observing murals spanning different decades, political climates and viewpoints. 
 
 There is also a dynamic artist studio and gallery presence in Pilsen, and the arts district is comprised of galleries along South Halsted Streets (beginning at 1711 and ending at 2005). The Chicago Arts District holds an art walk on the second Friday of each month where studios and galleries hold open houses for visitors. You can pick up a map of “2nd Fridays Gallery Night” at the information center located at 1945 South Halsted Street. 
 
 Festivals and special events 
 
 
 
 Pilsen has a number of parades including the annual Mexican Independence Day Parade and Día de los Niños parade. 
 
 It’s also home to many of the city’s best festivals including Pilsen Fest (in partnership with digital magazine El BeiSMan) August 18 -19, 2018. There’s also El Corn Fest, The Battle (a singing and DJ talent contest) and a Cantina Crawl. 
 
 Fiesta del Sol is an annual fundraising event focused on family fun. It’s free and organized by the Pilsen Neighbors Community Council. It’s a four-day event that spans eight blocks on Cermak Road boasting more than 100 booths and a carnival. 
 
 Another non-profit organization Eighteenth Street Development Corporation organizes Mole de Mayo festival along Ashland and 18th Street. Focused on providing needs for small businesses, Eighteenth Street provides help with programs, resources and even workshops for Pilsen’s business community. 
 
 The Chicago Urban Arts Society puts on the Slow & Low Festival in the Cermak Road Industrial Corridor section of Pilsen. 
 
 There is also Ruido Fest, a multi-day Latin American music festival that happens in July. It’s in nearby Little Italy but worth a mention. Of course, July 4 celebrations are also a fun time in Pilsen – especially if you enjoy watching fireworks. 
 
 In addition to festivals, Pilsen also celebrates the Easter season with an re-enactment on Good Friday each year of Via Crucis, the stations of the cross. For the past 41 years, hundreds of people have lined 18th Street to watch the dramatic procession to Harrison Park. 
 
 An important mention is the Pilsen Community Bookstore. The bookstore sells new and used books but has a mission to give high quality, high interest books to every student in Pilsen. The program is called “Pilsen Reads!” and the bookstore allows teachers to hand select books for their classrooms. 
 
 Another bookstore is operated by the non-profit organization Open Books. Pilsen is one of two locations (the other is in the West Loop) and in addition to used books donations, Open Books has a literacy program and a writing program that gives students the chance to become published authors. 
 
 At 18th and Allport is historic landmark Thalia Hall. In 1892, A Czech tavern owner John Dusek commissioned architects Frederick Faber and William Pagels to build Thalia Hall in the likes of the opulent opera house in Prague. It was a beacon of fine art including opera, but also a community gathering place. 
 
 In 2013, owners Bruce Finkelman and Craig Golden (partners in the restaurant Longman & Eagle) undertook the project of painstakingly preserving and restoring the hall after more than 50 years of neglect. The main hall is a venue for music and comedy shows, the restaurant Dusek’s Board and Beer serves brunch and has a late night menu and two bars – Tack Room and Punch House. 
 
 Coffee shops and bakeries 
 
 A thriving community of “free thinkers” and community activists need gathering spaces, and coffee shops are the perfect arena for the meeting of great minds. It’s no wonder they are abundant in Pilsen! 
 
 La Catrina Cafe is owned by Diana Galicia Corona and her husband, Salvador. There’s plenty of space to spread out and work or study. There is also a space perfect for large gatherings. The Coronas care deeply about their community and know a thing or two about activism. 
 
 There’s a shrine dedicated to her son, Gabriel Cisneros, who passed away in 2016 at age 22 from a drug overdose. Cisneros was a gifted artist, and the family continues to be vocal about the dangers of addiction. The cafe displays art collections, art classes, open mics for poetry readings and young authors. It’s an incredibly warm environment, and they often offer “free hugs.” 
 
 The landmark coffee establishment in Pilsen is Cafe Jumping Bean which opened in 1994. The sandwiches and desserts still bring in a diverse and bustling crowd and owner Eleazar Delgado gives back to the community by donating a percentage of sales to worthy causes. 
 
 Frida Room serves full breakfast and burgers – if you’re looking for more than coffee. There’s also Juice House for smoothies and Kristoffer’s Cafe for tres leches and cake. Cà Phê Dá (cafe to Hais Sous restaurant) has Vietnamese coffee and banh mi sandwiches, and Chocolat Uzma has delicious homemade small batch chocolates and hot chocolate. 
 
 Brew Brew Coffee also has a great selection of teas. Its main location is in Avondale, and Brew Brew Coffee brings in donuts from Gurnee Donuts which has a cult following. Spoke & Bird Bakehouse is the coffee and pastry sister location to its main cafe in the South Loop. 
 
 Special mention has to be made of Panaderia Nuevo Leon, which has been serving Mexican sweets to the neighborhood since 1973. From conchas to bolillos to even vegan sweets and breads, this bakery has you covered! Its cafe Creperia Nuevo Leon features a savory and sweet fusion of Mexican flavors inside the classic crepe. 
 
 Where to eat 
 
 Everyone is going to have their favorite Mexican or Latin restaurant in Pilsen. For Bianca Ruvalcaba, it was not only a matter of taste buds but sentiment that draws her to the Mexican steakhouse Canton Regio restaurant. It’s owned by the Gutierrez family that lost Nuevo Leon – a 53-year-old staple on 18th Street. The grilled meat is served skewered hanging from a metal tree stand. 
 
 To find the best taco, I asked my friend Blanca Rios, and she suggested Atotonilco Restaurant. A fast casual spot that makes its own tortillas (that are also sold and distributed to grocery stores). The original location is in Little Village (opened in 1972) but each location has a flavor of its own. This Pilsen location’s tortilla and carne asada and al pastor are spectacular! 
 
 5 Rabanitos by Chef Alfonso Sotelo – an alum of Rick Bayless’ restaurants – is another must visit restaurant in Pilsen. From the selection of soups to salads, ceviches, tacos and mole, you can’t make a mistake in ordering. This is definitely the spot to go to impress your foodie date. 
 
 Las Carnitas Uruapan has been in Pilsen since 1975 and exclusively makes carnitas fresh daily. For his entire life, Chef Inocencio Carbajal has been making carnitas the way he had them as a little boy. He hasn’t altered the recipe or followed any fads. He serves his soft carnitas simply with tortilla, salsa, refried beans, and chicharòn. And he has a cult following, except now it’s multi-generational. People rave and swear this is the best carnitas in town so definitely worth you making a stop. 
 
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 Other mentions for good eats include Sabas Vega, Yvolinas Tamales, Carnitas Don Pedro, Azul 18, DeColores and La Cecina Restaurant. 
 
 Don’t feel like Mexican or Latin food? Hai Sous serves up modern interpretations of street and home-style Vietnamese dishes from Chef Thai Dang and cocktails from his wife Danielle. Pl-zen is a gastropub that serves tacos but is better known for its selection of burgers ranging from kobe beef to bison. 
 
 And if you’re looking for barbecue, there’s Honky Tonk. 
 
 What if you’re craving a savory meat pie? Well, Pilsen has that too at Pleasant House Pub’s Royal Pies. It has a variety of delicious British meat and veggie pies, fish and chips, scotch egg and curry chips just to name a few. In addition, the list of brews and cocktails will transport you to merry old England! Husband and wife owners Art and Chelsea Jackson are long time residents of Pilsen. 
 
 If you’re looking for an incredible dinner that may be outside the norm of the expected, I’d highly recommend S.K.Y. From hospitality to the food, it’s an exquisite dining experience. Chef Stephen Gillanders and General Manager Charles Ford have made sure the menu is accessible in price and offer a welcoming, casual atmosphere. They renovated a condemned building that had been vacant for four years and employ a hefty number of neighborhood locals. Chef Gillanders named the restaurant after the initials of his wife, so it’s a good thing the food is delicious. 
 
 For night owls, there’s plenty to do without having to leave the neighborhood. The Skylark is a no-frills neighborhood staple. Simone’s is another neighborhood favorite for the last eight years and features an incredible decor of reclaimed and recycled architectural features. Del Toro is also a restaurant that stays up very late and features the very best margaritas with homemade sour mixes and freshly-squeezed juices. 
 
 Additional local favorites include La Vaca Margarita Bar and local dives Harbee and Caminos de Michoacan. Plus, don’t forget about Punch House and Tack Room in Thalia Hall. 
 
 I almost forgot mention that Pilsen also has a brewery. Moody Tongue, not only has a tasting room but serves food as well. They serve two menu items of oysters served raw on the half shell and a decadent, unbelievable German chocolate cake. Pretty simple. 
 
 Shopping 
 
 In terms of shopping, there’s a lot of great vintage stores in Pilsen including Knee Deep, Pilsen Vintage and Very Best Vintage. Verdant Matter/Shudio and Mestiza are worth checking out too. 
 
 Plus, there’s all the food you can buy – freshly made tortillas at Milagro and sweet bread at Panaderia Nuevo Leon and gifts at the Mexican Museum of Art’s gift shop. 
 
 There’s so much more to explore in Pilsen; it truly is one neighborhood that overwhelms all your senses in the very best way. The energy, the burst of color, the incredible smells and mouth-watering food, it’s worth revisiting again and again – and I encourage you to do so with an open mind and awareness to honor the past and help preserve the future. 
 
 My Five Favorite Things about Pilsen by Vicki Romero The history and tradition that Pilsen has, including being a port of entry for immigrants, and the place where important labor organizing movements took place. I absolutely love how my neighborhood feels like a small town. Neighbors know one another by name and look out for each other like family. The aromas that waft through the air on Sunday mornings. It’s a combination of fresh tortillas, carnitas, coffee and pan dulce. It’s a sensory overload in the best way ever! The sound of Pilsen always brings a smile to my face. I can close my eyes and hear the children’s laughter as they play in the streets, while the bells of a paleta vendor ring in the background, remixed with the sounds of everything from regional Mexican music to Chicago house music bumping out of cars passing by. The sounds that let you know that my community is alive and bustling. The art and murals that capture the images of what it means to be Mexican in the urban landscape of Chicago. The murals in Pilsen are the best in the city, hands down. Vicki Romero is a life-long Pilsen resident who is committed to keeping the neighborhood’s Mexican cultural identity alive. 
 
 One more thing…. 
 
 Thanks for joining me and the Sun-Times team on this tour of Pilsen. For an organized walking tour of this neighborhood, check out this one by the Chicago Architectural Foundation or this one by Chicago DeTours that features its food. Plus, you can use all the information in my story for a do-it-yourself tour of this terrific, diverse neighborhood. Have fun! 
 
 See you next time on The Grid! 
 
 This new Sun-Times video series showcases the best of Chicago’s neighborhoods by turning a spotlight on the people, places and things that make our city one-of-a-kind. Look for a new video episode each Wednesday on the Chicago Sun-Times website. #thegrid. We hope you will watch, read and share all of The Grid stories! ||||| We all know that the best way to really know a city isn’t to go to the central square or major museums, or even the most tourist-trodden neighborhoods. What’s more interesting is discovering the up-and-coming neighborhoods where local creatives are settling in and setting up shop. 
 
 It’s especially important in cities where overtourism is becoming a problem, such as Barcelona and Amsterdam. Sure, walk down La Rambla or explore the inner canal belt, but then get out into the places where local life is really happening. 
 
 I asked some of my favorite travel experts for their tips on the best neighborhoods to explore right now. Here’s what’s on their radar. 
 
 Barcelona: Sants 
 
 Earlier this year, the influential food travel and publishing company Culinary Backstreets declared 2018 the year of the neighborhood. Cofounder Ansel Mullins singles out Sants in Barcelona as one of his favorites. “Most locals know the Sants area as a place they pass through on their way to Barcelona’s main train station, but to us it represents something much deeper: a neighborhood where we can still experience the city’s original soul—culinary and otherwise,” wrote their local correspondent. “While other parts of Barcelona, especially its historic center, have had to contend with the effects of the city’s growing popularity, Sants has somehow managed to stay under the radar, allowing it to keep much of its traditional charm and way of life, while also being an inviting area for new ventures to give it a go. This is a place where you can still find old bodegas with wooden casks filled with bulk wine for sale, homey vermuterias where locals gather to chat over seafood tapas and family-run restaurants…. There’s a wonderful mix of traditional spots that have been around for generations and new restaurants and tapas bars opened up by innovative young chefs escaping high rents in the center of town.” 
 
 Washington, D.C.: Navy Yard 
 
 “The Navy Yard area is the fastest growing neighborhood in Washington D.C., and it is slated to develop 3 million square feet for residential and office buildings, pedestrian space and retail and dining for 2030—as well as its first hotel, the Thompson,” says Melissa Biggs Bradley, the founder of Indagare. “With its waterfront location, industrial infrastructure and historic roots (it was established in 1799), the Navy Yard—or “the Yards”—has a cool factor that most other D.C. neighborhoods lack.” While the main attraction is still the Nationals’ baseball park, which hosts not only games but also popular events like a craft beer festival, the restaurant scene is gaining a strong following. Top tables include the microbrewery Blue Jacket, the upscale Italian Osteria Morini, the internationally focused Chloe and the highly inventive Ice Cream Jubilee, which offers grown-up flavors like honey lemon lavender and gin & tonic sorbet. 
 
 Amsterdam: Amsterdam Noord 
 
 “Just 15 minutes by ferry from the city’s central station, Amsterdam Noord is a neighborhood on the rise, and rightfully so,” says Tom Marchant, the founder of Black Tomato. “Set amid old trams and multicolored shipping containers is NDSM, a hub for independent art galleries and lively watering holes. This provides serious visual endorphins and is an Instagrammers' heaven.” Hotel Faralda, which has three rooms with “serious Wes Anderson vibes” suspended in a towering crane, is a quirky landmark in the NDSM community. And IJ Hallen is renowned as one of Europe’s largest and most unique flea markets. 
 
 Cartagena: Getsemani 
 
 Most tourists stay within the walls of the old city, but Biggs Bradley recommends this neighborhood just outside the walls. “It offers an authentic look at what life in the city is really like for locals,” she says. “Anchored by the Plaza Trinidad, a lively public square, Gestemani is not yet fully gentrified, and it is inhabited by families that have lived in the same house for multiple generations. Thus, there’s a very strong local culture and identity here.” Recent years have brought some stylish new additions, including cool cafes like Café del Mural, bars like Demente, tiny restaurants like Caffé Lunático, Malagana, and La Cocina de Pepina. 
 
 Johannesburg: Maboneng 
 
 “A no-go zone until the end of Apartheid in 1994, Johannesburg’s Maboneng has since transformed into a lively urban area with blossoming art and culinary scenes,” says Biggs Bradley. The compact neighborhood is known for cultural attractions like the Museum of African Design, Arts on Main—a complex that was previously a series of dilapidated buildings and now has many cool galleries—restaurants and boutiques. The culinary offerings are widely diverse, with restaurants that specialize in everything from Ethiopian cuisine to health food. “One of the best spots for a meal is Che Argentine Grill, which offers delicious specialties like empanadas and a live tango band on weeknights.” 
 
 Tbilisi: Plekhanov 
 
 We can also call 2018 the year of Georgia. The former Soviet republic has become among the trendiest places to visit, and the capital of Tbilisi is always the first and last stop. The old town is charming, but both Mullins and Jonny Bealby of Wild Frontiers are more excited about Plekhanov. “It’s an area where native Tbilisians traditionally live, renowned for its old-style houses with beautiful doorways,” says Bealby. “It recently became more fashionable when the main avenue, Agmashenebeli, was renovated and especially when the Fabrika space opened. Once a Soviet sewing factory, this multifunctional space now houses cafes, bars, studios, shops and a hostel. This area is a mixture of young creatives and tourists, and there’s live music most evenings.” 
 
 Panama City: Casco Viejo 
 
 “In the 1990s, Casco Viejo was one of the city’s most dangerous neighborhoods, overrun by gangs, full of violence and turf wars,” notes Biggs Bradley. Now a staircase in the boutique American Trade Hotel has wallpaper that shows some of the original graffiti that was found in the abandoned buildings. “The fact that gritty gang slogans are today used as decoration in a designer hotel goes to show just how far Casco Viejo has come. The neighborhood buzzes with restoration and new openings, as the developers tackle building after colonial building.” Some can’t-miss addresses: Donde José, a chef’s table restaurant that’s one of the most upscale in the city; Fonda La Sexta, a pioneering restaurant that employs low-income women chefs; La Concordia, a new hotel with a great rooftop bar for sunset drinks; and Karavan, a one-stop shop for Panamanian-made gifts. 
 
 Saigon: District 5 
 
 “Most visitors to Saigon spend their time in Districts 1 and 2,” explains Andrea Ross of Wild Frontiers. “However, to get away from the crowds and have a more local experience, we like to head to District 5. Here you’ll find Saigon’s Chinatown, as well as unique temples like Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda, a colorful Taoist temple frequented by locals. The Binh Tay market is a local marvel, selling everything from fresh goods to car radios. At night the streets come alive with bars and restaurants offering live music. It feels like a throwback to old Saigon, and is a fun way to escape the more manicured central districts.” 
 
 Athens: Keramikos 
 
 This district is another favorite of Culinary Backstreets. Their Athens correspondent wrote, “Just a ten-minute walk from Athens’ buzzing historic center, the laidback Keramikos neighborhood seems to live in a magical world of its own,” writes their correspondent. “It’s a place where old and new, Greece’s storied past and often turbulent present, tradition and forward-looking creativity all coexist happily together. At the weekly street market, the neighborhood comes alive in a riot of sights, smells and flavors…. In recent years Keramikos’s low rents and old-time feel have lured creative young Athenians to the area, where they have opened inventive restaurants, bars and cafés along with galleries and theaters. Joining Keramikos’s rich trove of existing old-school establishments, these new spots have helped create one of the Athens’ most exciting dining and cultural scenes.” 
 
 Seoul: Seongsu-dong 
 
 Marchant calls this neighborhood the “Brooklyn of Seoul, a buzzy hive for all things creative. The graffiti-adorned industrial warehouses have been revived as trendy hotspots, appealing to hipsters, photographers and foodies alike. House of Collections, an art group based in Seoul and New York City, has helped Seongsu-dong establish a thriving arts scene.” The most recent exhibition, Blowing Romance in Water Garden, was an Instagram hit. There are also eccentric and sustainability-focused eateries like Daelim Warehouse and Café Onion. 
 
 Chicago: Pilsen 
 
 “Featuring streets lined with hip galleries and walls decorated with colorful murals dating from the 1970s, the Pilsen neighborhood on Chicago’s Lower West Side is a nest of cutting-edge culture and art,” says Biggs Bradley. “It’s been fostered by successive waves of Eastern European and Mexican immigrants, in addition to local artists and students, who have molded this fascinating area over the past century and a half. At the National Museum of Mexican Art, the 10,000-piece collection showcases the work of Mexican and Mexican-American artists. And there are a growing number of performance venues, art studios and trendy bars like the popular Punch House. 
 
 Cape Town: Kalk Bay 
 
 “A seaside haven slightly removed from the bustle of Cape Town, the former fishing village Kalk Bay is attracting more than just the local surfer community” says Marchant. “Blanketed with quaint cafes, rustic fishing boats and colorful storefronts, this vibrant harbor neighborhood is recently the talk of the city. Olympia Café, a standby for locals, is an ideal launching pad for a day of False Bay coastline exploration. An intricate origami installation created by Kalk Bay local Sanae Sawada decorates the walls of the iconic café, which is just steps from the charming seal-invaded wharf.”
– Where do all the cool kids hang out? Forbes thinks it's got that figured out with its list of some of the hippest, most happening neighborhoods around the globe, culled from travel experts. These are districts that aren't necessarily crammed with the most famous landmarks or where you'll bump into the most tourists—instead, they're "up-and-coming" neighborhoods where "local life is really happening," whether that means hot new cafes, flourishing art scenes, and even hotels boasting "serious Wes Anderson vibes" (that one's in Amsterdam's Noord). Here, five standouts: Pilsen (Chicago). See the Sun-Times for more details on the area that has "long been a first-stop neighborhood for many immigrants." Amsterdam Noord (Amsterdam, the Netherlands) Getsemani (Cartegena, Colombia) Plekhanov (Tbilisi, Georgia) Seongsu-dong (Seoul, South Korea) Find out what other neighborhoods made the list. (America's 10 best suburbs here.)