I remember the first time I grew aubergines in my garden in Essex – I couldn’t believe it! The smaller varieties do really well here. In the show, I make a North African-style roast chicken, served with gnarly squash and smashed aubergine, which I’ve charred over a flame until silky, then whipped up with tahini, garlic and lemon. It’s a twist on a Sunday roast that’s full of colour and surprise.
"Fresh figs grow well in Essex, too, but they have a really short season. What is more readily available is fig leaves. Fig trees grow in parks, back gardens and side streets, and their leaves are well worth using. In the show, I bake a block of feta, wrapped in fig leaves until oozy and molten. As the fig leaves blacken and burn in the oven, it infuses the feta with phenomenal figgy flavour – it can be surprising to think of the fig as a British-grown ingredient, but it definitely is!