Fundamentally, the hangboard is used to strengthen the fingers’ pulling and grip strength for climbers seeking to progress their ability to complete more difficult rock climbs. To use one, hang from holds on the board with your shoulder and elbow joints engaged. The elbows should be slightly bent. Avoid hanging with your shoulders next to your ears.
When hangboarding, it’s recommended most climbers use an open-handed or half-crimp hand position. These hand positions avoid the full crimp, which positions the knuckles above the fingertips and wraps the thumb on top of the fingertips. The full crimp creates a significant potential for injury in the tendon and pulley tissues.
Between each repetition of hanging, take sufficient rest to allow the fingers to recover. It’s recommended to take at least a day of rest between hangboard sessions.