A kilt that is made to 'the Sett' is one that maintains the entire tartan pattern across the pleats at the rear of the garment. The 'Military' style of pleating will have the strong vertical lines of the tartan repeated right across the pleating, creating quite a different effect .Most kilts ,these days, are made according to 'the Sett',and unless you specify otherwise,this is the way that we make our kilts.