This mid-late period is also referred to as the "Grand period" where we see a sharp change in design from delicate to bold which reflected the changing social roles and representation of women amongst society.Key features in this period include somber motifs and the birth of mourning jewelry. We also see some origins of the Art Nouveau era reflected here with insects being used such as flies, butterflies and beetles. Gold and silver were the common substrates as platinum was not yet in use by jewelers. Gold and silver were used to create a "softer" look with the aid of diamonds, black onyx, jet, ivory, pearls and cameos. The end of the Victorian era (aesthetic period) had a distinct change in how women wore jewelry. A return to the romantic style with soft natural colors, butterflies and roses were the common theme. We see amethysts, emeralds and opals appear here in the designs as well. Let us not forget; however, that even until the end of this era, Queen Victoria continued to inspire the wearing of mourning jewelry.