The other suggestion is about stalling when returning to idle. A common finding is that the idle stop screws are  not equally engaged. When the throttle snaps back if only one carb’s idle screw is doing all the work the other  throttle plate closes too much and then you are running on only one carb while the other three cylinders  have a closed throttle plate and are drawing an extra heavy dose of fresh air from the idle air control. A quick check is to push on the idle adjustment screws and if the idle drops that screw is not fully engaged. That condition does not show up in the logs. The solution is to double check the air balance between carbs, first at 2500 adjusted by the connectors on the interconnecting shaft between carbs. Then the idle needs to be balanced using BOTH idle adjustment screws making sure both screws are making contact with the stops on the throttle shaft linkage. At idle if you can jiggle one of the throttle plate levers that stop screw is not loaded properly. Set a TR6 with a warmed up engine to the base idle speed of 900rpm with a balanced air flow. You will need a Unisyn or something similar to make an accurate balance adjustment. If you are absolutely certain that the carbs are already properly balanced, a possible quick solution with a warm engine is to very slowly tighten the idle stop on the carb WITHOUT the throttle position sensor until the idle just barely starts to increase and then back off 1/8th turn. When set properly the base idle on a warm engine will rest about 900 rpm and the IAC value in WinALDL will be 0 or in low single digits.