Varieties of wild salmon may be light or dark red, and may have a pungent or a mild taste when cooked. These factors indicate variety, not excellence. Experiment by choosing a different salmon each time you shop and in time, you’ll learn what you love best. As with any fish, chose salmon fillets that appear plump and moist. Moisture is a good indicator of freshness. Avoid dried or curled-looking fillets, and never settle for fish with an odor.