The Cerakote application process consists of 9 phases: (1) disassembly, (2) decrease, (3) masking, (4) sandblasting, (5) racking, (6) gassing out, (7) coating preparation, (8) spraying, and (9) curing. You can officially start coating your crossbow independently if you have completed the Cerakote coating certification training. You can buy the authentic Cerakote starter kit on their website if you’re still starting. These kits have different versions and contain essential materials for the project. On the other hand, you can use their PRO kits if you have experience using Cerakote on your crossbow. These kits include essentials that professionals at Cerakote recommend when you do your coating project. The PRO kits also have more colors and equipment, so they’re slightly more expensive than the starter kits. However, Cerakote extends the shelf life of your weapons by protecting them from wear and tear. Hence, you can still consider the price affordable, considering the amount of money you will save in the long run. Read on to know each phase of the application or coating process. Phase 1: Disassembly The first phase is disassembly. As the name suggests, you will disassemble the parts of the item that you will coat or work with. Lay them correctly and take a picture to avoid losing parts or putting the pieces back incorrectly. Taking a picture of the disassembled parts makes it easier for you to put them back together and helps you double-check if all the items are complete before you reassemble them. If you are not familiar with the thing you’re disassembling, do not hesitate to ask for a professional’s help. Phase 2: Degreasing The second phase of the coating process is degreasing. From this phase until the end of the process, use nitrile or powder-free latex gloves when you’re touching the parts. To degrease metal parts, soak them in a degreaser for 20 to 30 minutes. Some examples of degreasers include acetone or brake parts cleaner. To degrease plastic, carbon fiber, polymers, and fiberglass parts, use a lint-free cloth to wipe each piece with a degreaser, such as wax and grease remover. After soaking or wiping down the parts, let them air-dry. Phase 3: Masking The third phase of the coating process is masking. In this phase, you will protect any areas you don’t want to coat using a plug or masking tape. For this phase, make sure you mask the important parts properly to avoid functionality issues. If you’re using masking tape, make sure that you trim the excess before moving to the next phase. Phase 4: Sandblasting The third phase of the coating process is sandblasting. For parts that have #100 grit aluminum oxide or garnet sand, sandblast each piece at 80 to 100 PSI. Moreover, sandblast the plastic, carbon fiber, polymer, and fiberglass parts at 30 to 40 PSI. Use a sandblaster instead of using glass beads, steel shot, or sanding each part by hand. Using glass beads or steel shots will cause dimples on the surface of the pieces, while hand sanding does not have the same result as sandblasting. Using glass beads, steel shot, or hand sanding may result in a profile or surface that is not suitable enough for the coating to stick to the surface. Ensure that you sandblast each part until the surface no longer appears shiny. Doing so ensures that the coating will adhere to the surface better. Moreover, aim for a uniform finish by ensuring that the blast pattern is even. Phase 5: Racking The fifth phase of the coating process is racking. For this phase, hang the parts in a way that makes it easier for you to coat them in the later stage. You can use metal hooks for the large parts and a rack for the smaller ones. To maintain the rack’s stability, ensure that the heavy pieces are at the bottom of the rack. Also, ensure enough space between each part to ensure that you don’t miss a spot during the coating phase. Phase 6: Gassing Out The sixth phase of the coating process is gassing out. If there are any remaining solvents on the parts from the degreasing phase, this is when you let these solvents evaporate. Also, check the parts for any oils or contaminants so you can draw them out. Heat metal parts in a convection oven at 300°F for 60 minutes. Moreover, gas out the plastic, carbon fiber, polymer, and fiberglass parts between 150˚ to 180˚F for 60 minutes. Phase 7: Coating Preparation The seventh phase of the coating process is coating preparation. For this phase, follow these steps: Agitate the Cerakote bottle until the coating is mixed for 5 to 10 minutes. You can agitate the bottle by hand, but for larger quantities such as pints or gallons, you can use a paint shaker to make it easier for you. Pour the desired amount of Cerakote into a glass beaker or graduated cylinder. Add the intended amount of catalyst into the container. Place a stretched powder-free latex glove over the container to seal it close, and then shake the container thoroughly for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer and into the spray gun cup. Before proceeding to the next phase, clean all the containers used in this phase with a degreasing solvent. Phase 8: Spraying The eighth phase of the coating process is spraying. Only start this phase if you’re sure that you can complete the curing stage within the next hour or two after the coating. More importantly, you have to wear the appropriate safety attire for this phase, such as a respirator, gloves, and safety glasses. Once you’re ready, check if the masked parts are secure and the pieces are hung securely and spaced evenly. Before coating the actual parts, adjust the spray pattern by spraying the coating on a vacant surface, such as an easel. When everything is ready, spray the Cerakote coating on the parts. Phase 9: Curing The ninth phase of the coating process is curing. Cure the parts in an oven and let them cool for this phase. Once they’re cool enough to hold, reassemble them.