According to author Mitchell Rosenthal, after you make these ribs the first time, you’ll realize the hardest thing about preparing a batch is the cooking time. When the air starts smelling of smoke and the ribs begin taking on a gorgeous deep color, well, you’re going to want them right away. But these ribs are the low-and-slow variety and patience is necessary. I often cook these ribs for parties, and guests inevitably ask me for the recipe. “No need to write it down,” I say. “It takes 4 to 4 1/2 hours. Just some salt and pepper, and after a half hour, baste them with some apple juice, and then again after 2 1/2 hours. That’s how you get that paper-thin, candy-like glaze.