Date: 2016-04-02
From: Abingdon Gap Shelter

To: Woodchuck hostel, Damascus, VA
Miles today: 10.2
Weather: clear sky

Slept great last night, easily one of the best nights of sleep I've had on the trail. The sun was pouring in gorgeous and golden when I woke at about 7:30. I watched Seeker wake up Golden Snitch to look at the sun through the clouds. They talk to each other and make a fair bit of noise so pretty soon we were all up. I woulda been up anyways. I tend to laze around in my bag after waking up even though I know I won't be able to fall back asleep. It just feels nice to be warm. It sprinkled rain last night, but the day broke clear, a little cold, and gorgeous. We all packed up, but I was the first one out of camp. I don't know why I am usually. I spose I don't cook or anything, but I guess I just don't dillydally. I like to get out quick once I'm up. I put in music from the get go today and moved quickly over the trail; it was just about the easiest terrain I've had all trip. Nice and flat or downhill and wide. I listened to Arcade Fire's album Funeral and then a lot of Bon Iver. Then, a big signpost came in sight! VIRGINIA! I turned off my music and gave a big whoop of joy! The signpost (unlike the one at the NC/GA border) is tall and has lots of arrows and posts, sort of satisfyingly large for a landmark accomplishment along the trail. I sat and drank some water then pushed off, eager for town and lunch. The trail became even more nicely graded and wide. As if to signal my arrival somewhere new, I saw the first chickadee I've seen on the trail. 95% of the birds I've seen are Junkos, and it was nice to see a species that I recognized from home. From now on, I will be passing through states to which I've already been and even spent some significant time, that is, I am done with states I am visiting for the first time. It felt like a sort of homecoming, or at least a major milestone, and the happiness kept burning through me for the rest of the day. Soon enough, I saw the houses and buildings of Damascus down below, and the trail finally dropped down to street level and plopped me out right in a residential neighborhood. It always sort of takes me aback to watch woods give way to suburban streets. I began walking along pavement and soon found the large wooden sign that welcomed me to Damascus and Virginia. At the intersection of the AT and the Virginia Creeper trail (a rails-to-trails bike path) Damascus proudly bills itself as "Trail Town, USA." I got a great deal of friendly nods and waves as I passed along the gravel path that is the trail for the first part of town, past playgrounds and pavilions. I sat for a while near the first major intersection planning my entrance into the town, but unfortunately reception was bad and nothing much got done. I continued on to the center of town, where I found Hootie, who had camped right at the border last night after officially making it to Virginia on the first of April. He is feeling even sicker today. Poor guy. It was still about 11:30, so I decided lunch could wait a second, and I decided to see about my boots. I went into Mt. Rogers Outfitters, who quickly told me they don't stick Salomon. I went to another outfitter, Adventure Damascus, who said that they didn't have my shoes in stock, and so my only option was to call Salomon itself and see if they would send me shoes. Guess whose customer service lines are closed on the weekends. So after all that build-up, I am still going to be carrying my old boots. I will call Salomon when I get a chance on Monday and see what happens. The warranty information online seems like I may have another pair of boots in my future, but I may have unintentionally voided the warranty by replacing the laces. Which seems ridiculous. I asked the man working in Adventure Damascus where I could get a burger and beer. He pointed me right next door into Bobo McFarlands, where I sat down and soon had, well, a burger and beer. The burger was a reasonable size (aka not big enough) and soon I ordered a piece of chocolate cake at my waitress's recommendation. And then, something strange happened. The girl who had been sitting at the booth next to me came over and said she had half a beer left and asked if I wanted some company. I was getting bored with just staring at the AWOL guide, so I agreed. Her name is Martha, and it turns out she is an opera singer from Abingdon who has just returned from a long stint in Berlin. She is a graduate of UVA, and funnily enough was in the UVA Belles in 2011 when they held a joint workshop/concert with the Yale Whiffenpoofs to help a number of local high school groups in Charlottesville. The funny part is, 1) the Spizzwinks(?), my former a cappella group, did that same joint concert gig when I was a freshman, and 2) she is still Facebook friends with the Spizzwinks(?) who were Whiffenpoofs that year, whom I know decently well. I jokingly asked her whether she wanted to give me a ride to the airport in a few days, and to my astonishment, said yes! I was thinking I was about to spend my day running around comparing shuttle prices at all the different outfitters for getting to Tri-cities airport, but now, suddenly, I have the help of a local (who is connected to me in somewhat strange ways) who can bring me there, free of hassle and, apparently, free of charge! There is an expression - one that you hear less than "hike your own hike" - that just says "the trail provides." Through utter coincidence, and frankly some admirable gregariousness on Martha's part, I now have a ride to the airport in a few days. I couldn't believe it. Martha left to go bike back to Abingdon along the Creeper Trail, but we exchanged contact info so I could be in touch later in the week. Then I decided it was time to find lodging. I decided on the Woodchuck Hostel, which attracted me mostly because they had laundry on site (there is no laundromat in Damascus, so I would've had to go to a hostel to do laundry anyway). I showed up to a nice looking white house where roofers were hard at work replacing metal sheeting. I cautiously stepped in the front door but was greeted by Chuck, a former thru hiker (who went by Woodchuck) who quickly got me set up with a bed (with linens, which is surprisingly rare, actually). The "hostel" is just a house that has beds in strange places. It was nice to not have bunks. I took a very hot shower and got all my clothes together to do laundry. I came downstairs to find 10:46, who found his way here via hiking and car yesterday. I also found Dream On's brother, who is meeting him in town (but I believe he's been here for a day or two, and his brother is behind schedule). I also found a guitar!!! I quickly tuned it up and began running through my catalog of folk songs that I haven't been able to play in a month. Guitar is just what I do in my down time, and it was awesome to be able to pick one up again. I played quite a bit today. Chuck was offering a shuttle to the big grocery store nearby at 5, but I wanted to do a little shopping first, so I headed over to the Dollar General and got most of groceries for the next few days. I also ran into Frost and Rain Man, who are zeroing after what they called the "Damascathon," a 30+ mile day that I believe they did with Doctor Trails, Seal Tree and Blaze. I hope I run into them tomorrow. I stopped by the outfitter and picked up some freeze dried dinners (and also got a free patch on a hole that has appeared in my down jacket) before heading to the hostel again. I went with Chuck and another hiker to the big grocery store and finished shopping, went back, played more guitar, and then went in search of dinner in town.I ended up - no surprises, frankly - at Bobo's, which was absolutely hopping by the standards of the little town of Damascus. I sat at the bar and had a beer before ordering Chicken Parm and discussing hockey with Jen, the bartender, who is an avid Redwings fan. I tried a stout from a small local brewery and was amazed. Seriously. StudioBrew Ferguson Stout. Get it if you see it. Delicious. I also met and talked with Richard about Trail Days, the huge AT festival that takes place here in mid-May. According to Richard, upwards of 150 thousand people pour through this town of 1200 residents in the span of a week. Jen backed him up and told me that the building Bobo's is in was built over the course of one Trail Days by a bunch of paid thru hikers. I was astounded. I don't know if I'll be here for trail days this year, but I feel like I should come at some point, because it seems pretty mind-blowing. After finishing my whole plate of spaghetti and chicken, I decided that one dinner wasn't going to cut it. I asked Jen for an order of chicken tenders and was surprised when she asked me what sides I wanted; it was going to be a full second dinner. I got Mac n cheese and cole slaw and another beer and sat at a side table and Facetimed Ali while I consumed more food than I thought I physically would have been able to. Feeling stuffed and satisfied I headed back to Woodchuck and got ready for bed. I haven't taken a zero in quite a while, but today was pretty close. With all this time off about to hit me in four days' time, I'm trying to push to the break. Tomorrow will take me up near the Grayson Highlands, Virginia's highest mountains. Don't know how far ill get at this point. But I'll be alright! It looks like four pretty simply days to Atkins.