Date: 2009-08-26
From: Congdon Shelter

To: Goddard Shelter
Miles today: 14.4
Weather: overcast clouds

It got a little chilly last night. Not bad mind although I did wake at 3am and feel the need to zip up my sleeping bag. So far I've mostly used it as a quilt and I've been dreading this - the coming of colder nights as the year wears on and as I slowly make my way north.When I started this hike I had intended to finish a little later than I had in 2003. The plan was to experience something a little different, to ensure that it would not just be a case of reliving the previous experiences. I had hoped that a later finish would allow me to enjoy the fall colours, but I also appreciated that there may be a cost to pay, particularly in terms of lower temperatures.Changing out gear isn't really an option for me. I have some great cold weather gear but it's in a box, in a cupboard, in a room in Aberdeen; so, instead, I'll just make do as best I can. I'll probably need to add a couple of layers soon (sometime before the Whites and the tail end of September) but for now I'll grin and bear it, recognising that the mercury is only heading one way.The morning proved fair (both meteorologically and trail wise) although after Harmon Hill there was a steep descent (and lots of steps) down to Vt9 and I didn't tarry long at Melville Neuheim Shelter due to the volume of trash. Other than that though, which isn't a lot really, things were pretty good.That said I am eating way too much. I don't know what it is but since leaving North Adams two days ago I have been verging on the ravenous. Finally after 1600 miles my hiker hunger has kicked in and I just can't seem to shake the craving. At the moment I am just going with it but it is a little worrying as increasing hunger coupled with decreasing self control could lead to some rather unpalatable moments somewhere on down the trail.Anyway, all of this meant I had a significantly lighter food bag following my lunch stop at Hell Hollow Brook and, as a result, I had to resign myself to a snack free 7 miles to the next shelter. The trail is definately somewhere that you can't have your cake and eat it!The forest was thick and the undergrowth verdant, at least that was the word that sprung to mind; and if verdant means thick, lush, and very green then it would probably be the right word to spring to mind. Later though the wind picked up, the skies darkened and the forest seemed to close in around me and suddenly gloomy was more the word that sprung to mind. The morning had promised much that now seemed unlikely to be delivered and, indeed, instead of those promised joys the temperature dropped and it started to sprinkle.I'd planned to go further today but not long after arriving at Goddard Shelter the rain started for real, and with the clouds swirling around us, and the water forming pools on the ground, there seemed little point in venturing away from the shelters rather pretty porch. I did briefly scout out the nearby campsites, but with the best ones looking distinctly soggy, and the rain showing no sign of abating, I chose instead to reluctantly stake out my spot in the shelter.Reluctantly because, excluding the Smokies, this would only be my third night in a shelter. Reluctantly because I like my tent, I like the personal space, the privacy, the routine. Its most definately a home from home; although out here I guess its really just my home, but maybe not for tonight.There are seven of us here in the shelter, sheltered from the rain and wrapped up as best we can.I'm here, once again, with Fletch; with a father and son; a guy who ends a section south tomorrow; another guy who wasted far too much of my life explaining how long he had to get to Maine and contemplating whether he had enough time. I did the math and reassured and encouraged him. I shouldn't have bothered. He then revealed that he had only started a couple of weeks ago and, for someone so aware and vocal about the time constraints he faced I was more than a little surprised to find out that he had just taken 4 zero days out of the last 6. As I said, I shouldn't have bothered. And then there was a guy who knows everything about everything - or at least about everything connected with the outdoors and with hiking - what gear is best, why light weight is right and why everything else is wrong, why you don't have to hang a bear bag, how he stared down a bear, how to maximise your time in town, that sort of thing.He knew a lot but what I learnt most from him was how glad i was that I had packed earplugs!