Date: 2011-05-05
From: Erwin, TN

To: Damascus, VA
Miles today: 124.5
Weather: clear sky

5/1: Spent a somewhat restless night due to 'town stomach', the phenomenon whereby one spends too much time on gratuitous face stuffing, thus ending up with a stuffed gut. And then of course did the same face-stuffing in the AM so as to get a good start on the trail. Hiking at 0645. Overcast most of the day, then some high clouds and sun. Not much wind. Good walking weather. Now seeing the most hikers on the trail since the first couple of days. I've been able to spend a surprising amount of time hiking without seeing other hikers. Many seem to keep banker's hours, 9am to 4pm or so. If you hike earlier and/or later than that, there's little traffic. Biggest up for the day was Unaka Mountain, 1K feet elevation gain in a mile. Finally quit just before the even bigger big climb up Roan Mountain, at a campsite .4 miles after Hughes Gap, 30+ miles for the day.5/2: 1800 feet left to get up Roan Mountain, polished off first thing in the morning. Foggy at the top, no views, cold wind, how rewarding. Later on, popped out of a rhododendron tunnel, to go over multiple 'balds', generally tree-free roundy spots, can be very liberating. Trying for second 30-mile day, just for grins. The backside of Hump Mountain slowed me down quite a bit, due to very rocky trail tread. Eventually, big descent to highway 19E. Much hotter, humid 'down' at this level. Followed by 900 foot climb, draining in this environment. Glad to get water at spigot on side of church near the trail. Stopped later at waterfall to wipe myself down with a bandanna. Quite pooped, but pushed on to Walnut Mountain Road, walk it 50 feet north to an unused forest service road, and camped. Lots of traffic on WM Road, thought I would have a rough night but it soon quit. 5/3: 0600 start. Heading for the Pizza Plus in Erwin, need to get there by 1400 to get in on the AYCE pizza/salad bar/soda/dessert buffet! Arrived at Kincora Hostel and picked up my resupply box. No room at hostel ('Busiest two weeks of the season' someone said.), didn't plan to stay, but Braemar Castle Hostel in Erwin is closed which is where I was headed. So I will just eat and run. Took the one mile side trail into Erwin, then walked one mile through town, and made the buffet with 10 minutes to spare. I'm the only participant. In the meantime, rough weather is moving in. High wind while walking back through town, someone stopped to offer me a ride. Very kind, but I just need to get back down the side trail junction with the AT and there are campsites under the trees. Made it back to the turn-off junction, got the tent up by 1700, then the rain came in goodly amounts at 1730. Still managed 16+ miles for the day.5/4: On to the next Pizza Plus, in Damascus! Rain gone, hiking at 0620. Big up to start the day, once again the top is rainy/foggy with no views. Passed by hiker 'Spiderlegs' who said he was heading for Damascus today, 40 or so miles away. Cold, windy on loooooonnnng ride walk, no relief by getting off the ridge. Wearing multiple layers. One brief warm bit in the afternoon, then back to the cold and gray. Thinking about Spiderlegs goal, and decided what the hell, maybe that would be entertaining to try for. Late in the day, at TN hwy 91, hit trail magic on both sides snacks on near side (thanks to a local church) and then the camp of AT thru vet Riff Raff and other. Party goin' on!s Oh so cold, but talked into trying some moonshine from a jar (not bad, we'll see about the giardia opportunity) and other snacks. Avoided getting stuck in this vortex, and pushed on, only 20 miles left to Damascus, lol. Well fueled and moving as fast as I can to stay warm. Later the sun sets and the wind backs off a small amount, but gets colder anyway. Keep eating my own snacks as I walk. Think about stopping at various points but keep saying what the hell I'm not dead yet. Walk by last shelter of the night, one guy asleep with active fire and BBC radio blaring at 100dB. Reached mile 459.4, Backbone trail junction, at midnight, only 5 miles to go. Into Damascus at 2am, now what, everything is closed. Thankfully public restroom is somewhat heated, lay out ground sheet and sleeping bag, unscrew a couple lights and sleep. Also used hand dryer to try to warm hands. Damn I was cold. Ended up at the Lazy Fox B&B for a night, we'll see if I take a zero. Out of computer time, bye.