Date: 2004-04-29
From: Uncle Johnny's - Erwin Tennessee

To: Campsite 1/2 Mile South of Low Gap
Miles today: 14.8
Weather: broken clouds

Today began as I woke up as planned, at 6:00 a.m. Trouble is, I was still awake at 3:00 a.m. because of the lights, strange surroundings and movies. Gypsy Wind is a night owl. I think I was just restless - not his fault. By 6:15 I was up packing and sorting things out. I ate my pop tarts and tuna while I packed. Brushed my teeth and then tried once again to fit everything into my pack - fits - just barely. Others from around Uncle Johnny's were out and about having conversation as they began their day. I took a final look around and then shouldered the pack. Outside I asked Hillbilly to get my picture at the Chestoa Bridge where I left off last year and then I was off. I crossed the Nolichucky River and entered the woods. The first few miles were pretty easy and I did well. I climbed above the river, through the gorge, and along the railroad bridge I had seen from the high ridge above as I approached Erwin at the end of my hike last year. It lulls you into thinking the whole hike will be that easy. The final climb up to Curley Maple Gap Shelter was a little tougher, especially on the first day. I thought about Marlene and wondered what she had planned for the day. And I thought about Tom too, dealing with the events of yesterday and how it would have been to have him there. At the shelter I saw the photo of Tom, in a laminated card, picture on one side and a poem and other information about him and his death on the other. The card said: Do not stand at my grave and weep I am not there, I do not sleep I am a thousand winds that blow I am the diamond glints in snow I am the sunlight on ripened grain. When you awaken in the morning hush Of quiet birds in circle flight I am the soft star that shines at night Do not stand at my grave and cry I am not there I did not die Tom was to begin his thru-hike April 11, 2004. Take each day as a gift from God "BE READY" "Southern Yankee" In Loving Memory Thomas Elon MacDonald February 9, 1943 - April 4, 2004 As I read the card and looked at his picture it was a very tough time. In his picture he was in hiking gear in a trail setting, and he looked very happy. It was a good picture of him and it helped me to know him a little better. The card and picture were placed during a memorial hike Vicky and several (about two dozen) friends did after he died. I signed the shelter register and stayed about 45 minutes. The last look at his picture brought tears to my eyes. I couldn't help but think what our experience at the shelter would have been like if we had been there together. It was a sad time. I loaded up and left. About 1/10 of a mile up the trail I came to Curley Maple Gap. I saw the old foundation from a fire warden's cabin (I think) and then I remembered - I forgot to get a picture back at the shelter. I wanted to remember that place and my experience there. I hurried back. As I was on my way I was hoping another hiker would come along to take my picture. No one was there, so I took them using the tripod. I had to look at Tom's picture again, and I think I said goodbye to him at that point. Just as I was ready to leave another hiker arrived. His trail name is Hobbes. He took another picture for me. I tried to explain about Tom, but I couldn't really handle it. He understood, and I left. When Vicky emailed me about Tom's death she said "I hope you will hike with him in your mind", and that request was easy for me to fulfill today. The next major goal was Indian Grave Gap a little over 4 miles ahead. It got hot, and it seemed to take a long time to get there. I had planned to cook lunch in the gap, but there was not a good place for it so I hiked about 1/2 mile further to find a good place right next to the trail. I cooked and ate there, took off my boots, got out my sleeping pad, and took a nap. As I ate, Hobbes came through, and an older hiker whose trail name is Batch. I think he is over 80 years old. He only stopped briefly. I think he likes to keep moving along at a slow, steady pace, and plans to thru hike all the way to Maine. The nap helped some but I was pretty tired from getting only about 2 hours sleep. The food helped, but I was kind of sluggish all afternoon. I got to Beauty Spot, a high bald mountain, and took some pictures there. It was a gorgeous sight, well deserving of its name. I stayed awhile and really enjoyed it. It was only a couple of miles to Deep Gap, my original destination for the night, giving me a 12.1 mile first day. I could not make what I was seeing along the trail match the guidebook description. In my confusion I missed the stop at Deep Gap, figuring that out as I began a climb with no end in sight. UNAKA MOUNTAIN - a huge climb, made all the more difficult doing it at the end of an already long day, on my first day out. Half way up I met Wooley, a young thru hiker, heading north faster than I was traveling. There was no water until I climbed the huge mountain, crossed a long ridgeline across its summit, and then hiked a steep rocky mountainside descent before coming to the spring. I needed water, and the spring provided a cool, refreshing break in a very quiet spot. Back up on the summit another hiker was camped in the pine thicket - a very beautiful, deep, dark woodsy spot. It was so thick that the evening darkness seemed to creep in prematurely. I can't remember his name. A mile after the spring I found a suitable spot and am "stealth" camping where no real campsite exists. It is after 9:00 p.m. and I am very tired. Probably hiked about 15 miles today, stopping just before Low Gap. I have eaten and everything is ready for the night. I am alone. The cold wind is blowing heavily through the barren trees, coming up the mountainside through a large draw. I hope it sings me to sleep later. I am snug in my tent. I will read some in my New Testament, have a time of prayer and then turn in. I may take something to help me sleep. I need sleep badly. In some ways it has been a hard day. This would have been our first campsite together, if Tom had lived to take this trip. I think I know the spot where he would have set up his tent if he were here. Physically the first day is always tough. As I lay here, I am thinking about Marlene. My last minute plans came together so quickly that we did not have much time to talk. I miss you especially tonight. I love you Sweetheart.