Date: 2015-09-17
From: Weat Carry Pond

To: Caratunk
Miles today: 14.0
Weather: clear sky

I loved sleeping with my rainfly off. When I woke in the night I stared up at the stars, so bright in a very black sky. The moon is just a sliver right now so the stars are even brighter. I had about a 14 mile day into Caratunk and the plan was to meet Katwalk at the shore of the Kennebac River, where we would be ferried across in a canoe. The elevation profile looked easy peasy lemony squeezie. At first the trail hugged the lakeshore, following it around on a rooty and rocky path. Steam was coming off of the lake and it was quite beautiful. I looked in vain for bathing moose. The trail became very nice and easy and I hiked at a good pace for about 3 miles. The trail crossed a sandy beach where a tent was standing. A lovely young southbound woman named Renbird had camped there. The sandy beach allowed access to a sandy patch of lake, no big boulders to hinder swimming. It was a sweet spot for sure. I was still feeling great about my campsite last night and the soothing experience I had. There is a saying out here: The trail provides. I thought about all the ways in which this has been true for me. I always get what I need ( not necessarily what I want) exactly at the moment I need it most. Sometimes I don't even know what I need until I have it. It can be something tangible, like water left under a tree, or something else, less defined; a triggered memory, a sight in the woods that stirs me, or a gentle rebuke if I am being an asshole.I feels as though I have had wild strands of thought and emotion shooting out in all directions since the beginning of this hike, and I couldn't make sense of any of it. Ambition (oh, I always wanted to finish) excitement, the emotions and ah-ha moments that sweep through you as you turn everything you have ever experienced over in your head while you walk and walk and walk. Walking over 2000 miles has worn me down, taken me to a state of being raw and open. Now as I near the end, those disjointed thoughts, feelings, and revelations are coming together in a very revealing way. I can see everything I think. Where I was, what is important now, where I am going, and how I am going to get there.Of course, I must finish this hike first. After the pleasant easy part of the hike, I got to a tedious root and rock up and down. It is only forgivable because it follows a beautiful stream which gets bigger then smaller, then falls down rocks and the whole while makes those water noises that are so melodic. The trail continued in this nany-nany-boo-boo I look easy but I'm not -fashion for the rest of the day. A nice graded downhill with neat little steps delivered me to the shore of the great Kennebec River. Katwalk and a handful of hikers I knew were waiting there for the ferry. A red canoe pulled up to the shore and a guy working for the ATC hopped out and proudly introduced himself as Hillbilly Dave. He gave us release papers to sign before we could ride. I got in the front and was handed a paddle, Katwalk got in the middle, and off we went. The river was wide and calm and crystal clear. It was not like the big muddy angry rivers that I had seen further south. Too bad it is so cold up here 10 months out of the year. I would move here. Maine is the most beautiful place on earth.When we disembarked we got a ride to the Sterling Inn. It has good hiker rates. I needed to baby my ankle, which is swollen and hot and the foot hurts to walk on. Plus a small groin pull. I'm falling apart in the homestretch!!!!!!Both the "ducks" playing in the water last night and the "coyotes" howling at night were actually loons, according to more learned hikers. Fascinating! I hope I can see them again.