Date: 2003-04-09
To: Damascus, VA
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: light rain

Damascus. A recent shelter regiter entry reminded me that "Jesus met Paul on the way to Damascus." While I have yet to gather unto myself any apostles, it was a near religious experience to walk 22 miles yesterday to the Mt. Rogers Wilderness sign that marks the Tennessee/Virginia border and then hike 4 miles more into town. The first thing that happened was that two nice ladies named Connie and Cathy offered me yummy leftovers and shepherded me to Jenny's Lazy Fox B&B. Though I couldn't afford to stay, I was able to hang out and let down in her cozy livingroom and come back for the Best Breakfast Ever the next morning (cheese grits, pancackes, fresh fruit, OJ, blueberry muffins, biscuits and gravy, eggs, fruit bread, bacon, sausage...) I am planning to head 10 miles into the woods around 3pm, though bad weather is predicted for the next few days and maybe even some snow.Since Erwin...well, the snow melted and the hike out of Erwin would have been easier if Heald hadn't decided to put an 8lb. brick in my bag for April Fool's Day. I found it...the first time, and then again after hiking 4 steep miles up to the Curry Maple Shelter. My pack sure did feel lighter after it; reminded me of the one about the man whose house is too small. He goes to the rabbi, who tells him to bring his chickens into his house. The next day, he returns and says his house is still too small, so the rabbi tells him to bring his goats into his house. The third day, the man returns and says his house feels even smaller, so the rabbi tells him to bring his milk cow into his house. The man returns the next day at his wit's end, and the rabbi tells him to take all of the animals out of his house. The rabbi visits the next day, and the man is all smiles. "Rabbi," he says, "my house is so big now!" My pack is still too heavy, but at least it felt light for half a day.I camped that night by myself for the first time at Deep Gap; beautiful sunset with hawks flying overhead. I was a little nervous, especially when my lighter threatened not to work, but it was a good experience. The next night I had a good time at Clyde Smith Shelter and decided to wake up at 2am with Lunchbox and Cannoli and hike up Roan Mt. (over 6000') in the dark. It was actually pretty fun, and we caught the sunrise. That day was my favorite on the AT so far; once we were up there at 5am, we had the rest of the day to cover the 7 miles to Overmountain Shelter. Cannoli (a Tufts grad) and I took the side trail to Grassy Ridge, "the only 360 degree view over 6000' near the AT." It was wonderful and warm and sunny, and we saw 5 hawks circling in the valley and above us. That whole ridge walk is spectacular in good weather, as were the Humps the next day (though windy). Overmountain Shelter is a converted barn that is windy and not so hot in bad weather, but we caught the last of the sun there and all felt good to be alive.Two nights ago, however, I felt not as good to be alive. There have been a couple of bugs going around, one a GI vomiting/diarrhea 24-hour bug and the other a fluish one. I had the fluish one and did a 15 mile day instead of the planned 23. I made tea, ate half a bagel and slept off the chills and slight fever. It must have worked, because yesterday I felt good enough to hike to Damascus.This section has marked my one and probably only "slack-pack," which some prefer to call "freedom-hike." This means that you get dropped off and hike back to a hostel without your full load. I carried donuts and apples instead for northbounders. My slack was up and over Pond Flats, so it was an even ascent/descent even though I did it in reverse, but I don't think I would do it all downhill, like some do. That way, you could theoretically walk the entire trail downhill, just switching whether you were hiking north or south. So the Poptart verdict on slacking is "fun for a day, but let's not make it a habit." Passover alert! If anyone reading this knows of (or is) a Jewish family around or below Pearisburg VA who might be willing to host a Wandering Aramean for the first night of Passover (the 16th), please let me know by emailing mimi_asnes@hotmail.com or leaving a message at (617)840-2644. Signing off,a well-again Poptaht (I've gone to the Boston spelling!)