Date: 2009-09-29
From: Wild Camp South of Big Wilson Stream

To: Chairback Gap Lean-To
Miles today: 16.7
Weather: light rain

I slept like a baby last night and was raring to go by 6 o'clock. I opted for shorts, given that some river fords lay ahead and reached for my head torch, to illuminate some initially gloomy moments. I didn't know it at the time but it was going to be a tough day and a timely reminder not to dispense advice about what might lie ahead.In Monson, and again yesterday, some hikers had been contemplating how tough the wilderness might be and I did what I have criticised so many others for and offered advice. Like those who had gone before I meant well, like those who had gone before I was speaking from experience (I had after all been here before), and like those who had gone before I was speaking out of my behind. I said the wilderness was a cakewalk, sure the odd up and down but nothing like the Whites or early Maine. I had obviously forgotten about this little section.It started off well. Sure the ford of Big Wilson Stream was the most demanding so far. I decided not to bother looking for a rock hop (as the rocks were all still wet and slick) and instead just waded in near a rope that had been strung across the river. Then I made the mistake of holding onto the rope: a good thing to do if you are getting washed away but otherwise a generally bad idea. You lean against the rope for support but it gives forcing overcompensation and then repetition. Next time I would stay near the rope, be aware of the rope but not lean on the rope.2 miles of tough trail (slippery rocks, up, down, broken trail) was followed by a couple of decent miles and then by two more fords. Both fords were testing although not tough, deepish (the second just touching the hem of my shorts) and chilly. One wasn't even mentioned in my Thru Hikers Companion - such are the vagaries of the Companion.I stopped at Long Pond Stream Lean-to where a family of Germans were in residence. I would hear more about these German's later and while it was amusing it didn't do much for Germany's international reputation, reinforcing rather than dispelling the stereotypical image of the selfish and thoughtless German.And all this, while interesting, invigorating and at times testing was just a preamble to the 'misery' that lay ahead. Of course, misery is too strong a word but the seven miles from Cloud Pond Lean-to to Chairback Gap Lean-to were about to take a distinct turn towards the sadistic.The companion noted 4 things: Fourth Mountain, Third Mountain, West Chairback Pond Trail, Columbus Mountain, and all were somewhere between 1,800 and 2,400 feet. A pleasant stroll along a rolling ridgeline was suggested but this is where the companion misrepresents the facts. The trail plunged downwards between each noted point (and as far as I could tell some that weren't noted); steep, sometimes sheer, plunges into the depths of apparently forgotten valleys. Then, on reaching the bottom, no stroll through some broad bottomland but an almost immediate reversal as suddenly the trail, instead of disappearing below you, appeared in front of your nose.The first down and up was testing and slow, the second, more so, the third a slow, unrewarding and draining slog. By now progress was pitifully slow. Not a problem in itself but with each tough mile came a draining of physical reserves and a realisation (or fear) that this may go on and on. If you fall behind schedule rather than resting you push on. A vicious circle of tiredness begetting more tiredness and as tiredness increases so contentment, and happiness, withers and dies.But these are the trials of the long distance hiker and of course these testing moments would not be endured if there were not considerable recompense for our efforts.Weary and with the first signs of a serious case of 'sense of humour failure' I wandered out onto Monument Cliffs. By now I was cursing the trail, the rocks, the roots, the trees, the ups, the downs, myself for being so stupid for offering up those reassuring words about how the wilderness was a piece of cake. I was not a happy bunny; and then I saw the view.I took lots of photos hoping that the camera might capture just a fraction of what the eye could see. I sat down and spent 40 minutes over dinner. Jaybird and Toubob passed. Jaybird proclaimed the beauty and the majesty, took a deep breath, said that this is what it is all about and then 10 seconds later headed on. Toubob too passed quickly by, but in him I recognised the signs of a tough day, the very circumstances that challenge anybody's ability to appreciate what is around you.I slipped on my ass just before the shelter, I sat around the fire with Amero, Toubob and Honey Dew, and then I called it a day. It had been a hard day but that's OK.