Date: 2005-04-12
From: Carter Gap Shelter

To: Franklin, NC
Miles today: 15.9
Weather: light rain

I woke up around 8am, got out of my bivy, and was surprised to see just about everyone packed up and leaving camp. The sky was growing dark and I guess everyone wanted to beat the rain. From the look of things, I knew the rain was be with us all day, so I took my time and was the last one out of camp. Actually, I seem to have developed a habit of taking my time in the morning and being the last one out of camp. The rain began as I was leaving the shelter. On and off at first and then a steady downpour. Hiking alone in the rain does allow for a great deal of personal reflection but one can only reflect so long without moving to Tibet, climbing a mountain, and becomming a Buddist monk (PS: Kevin, this is your brother typing your entry and, and I'm wondering if you are getting enough oxygen based on the previous sentence). Simply put, it gets lonely. This would have been a great day to have been hiking with Sheena.I had been hiking in the cold rain for about 2.5 hours and knew that I was getting close to the big climb for the day, Albert Mountain, which had a reputation for requiring hikers to quite literally "climb" certain sections using handholds and footholds. I plan to stop at the Forrest Service Road just before Albert Mt. and fuel up for the climb with a snickers bar.   As I neared the road, the rain picked up and the sound of rain drops hitting leaves and the forest floor drowned out most other noise. But wait, what's that noise? It sounds like a generator. Is that music I hear? Walking through the rain and fog, I came upon a series of tents and then an RV. Guess some people were having a party out here. Then I saw it...the sign. The sign that always seems to appear when you need it most. "Trail Magic". Now this was a sight. The couple who used to run the Rainbow Springs Campground, which has been bought by developers and closed down to make room for condos, had been out here sine March 15 taking care of hikers along with Fishing Fred and Gator Aid. This wasn't your typical Trail Magic either. Under a large tent they had a warm fire going. Over the fire an old saw blade was suspended, that from it's size, had probably come from a lumber mill. On top of the saw blade these trail angels were cooking rice, beans and coffee. Just what I needed. Much better than eating a cold Snickers bar in the even colder rain. They even had homemade salsa and other condiments as well as paper plates and utensils. They had come out with a few thousand tortillas but with hungry hikers coming through, they soon ran out. This whole operation was being run on donations and kind hearts. I was amazed and grateful. Just what I needed. Now warm and full, I made my donation, thanked them and headed out. The climb up Albert Mountain was tough but not nearly as tough as people had made out. I had to do some hand over foot climbing but it wasn't bad. I was more concerned about the descent on the other side since it was pouring rain and the rocks were slippery. When I reached the summit, I found the legs of a lookout tower with the top hidden in the dense fog and rain. Deprived of what is probably a great view, I pressed on. Fortunately, the descent was more gradual.I stopped in for lunch at Big Springs Shelter, just an hour after I had finished my plate of rice and beans. My hunger is really starting to pick up. Flying Pig, a retired teacher from PA, who is section hiking to Damascus, VA was in for the night. The rain lightened while I was eating lunch, but as soon as I put my pack on to leave, it was once again a downpour. I was planning to head in to Franklin tonight, so I didn't care. I reached Rock Gap Shelter around 3:30 and tried to recruit for staying in Franklin. I seem to be really good at convincing people to go into town. I hope this still works on a jury as well. Dillon, a recent Coast Guard veteran, joined me for the trip, and Slim, Amy and Jeff were not far behind. We stopped once to take off rain gear and thermal layers but otherwise, we cruised the last 4 miles at a minimum of 3 miles per hour. We soon reached US 64 and found some Trail Magic in a cooler but left it for those hikers were pressing on. While everyone was taking off their packs, I was already roadside with my thumb in the air. Surprisingly, the third car to pass, stopped for us. A guy, who was on his way back from a business trip to Atlanta, was nice enough to give all of us dirty, smelly hikers a ride in his clean SUV. We were headed to the Haven Motel but since it was full, they sent us to the Sapphire and gave us the same rate. We threw in our laundry together and headed to Vito's Pizza for dinner. Five of us split 2 18 inch pizzas with onions, green olives, black olives, peppers and garlic, as well as 2 large orders of bread sticks. Yumm...I love trail towns. To me, they are part of the experience. I think those who rush and avoid most towns are really missing out. Were it not for the trail, I would probably have never been in Franklin, NC and never have been in Vito's Pizza, discussing my high school job at Peppinos Pizza in New York, where we even made our own sauce, with Vito, who came from MI. Each trail town has it's own character and definitely adds to the experience. Obviously, if you stop in every town, you will either go broke or take a year to reach Maine. Make sure to check out a few. Oh, and if you stop in Franklin, NC, eat at Vito's.