Date: 2017-08-19
From: Spaulding Lean-To

To: The Stratton Motel and Hostel
Miles today: 13.5

I don't want to get out of my warm cocoon in the tent this morning. The trees continue to drop water on the tent, though the rain stopped fifteen hours ago. Finally I force myself to change into wet clothes. It's not that bad after the first minute. Wool and synthetics quickly warm to your body temperature even when wet. And today turns out to be much warmer than yesterday. As I breakfast in the shelter chatting with a southbounder, a group of Harvard kids out for some kind of outdoor leadership trip are getting up and chaotically going through all their wet gear, spread out on muddy tarps. I don't think it's the same group I saw climbing Saddleback. God knows how far they got.The day starts with a 1000 foot climb over Spaulding mountain, typical Maine steep rocky trail both ways. I pass a plaque noting the CCC's work completing the last link of the AT near here in 1937. Their yeoman work is soon apparent. After a rooty few miles the trail dives off the north face of Sugarloaf, known for its ski resort. The trail is literally a 60 degree or higher slope at times, inching horizontally forward with huge steps down the ledges. Much of the trail is still wet. I'm sweating going downhill, exerting isotonic effort to position each step carefully and avoid slipping.Finally the torture ends and I reach the Carrabassett River. The guide says to ford, but some wonderful soul has set up a plank at the critical point and I easily hop across. The sun has come out and I rest with Lazarus and another young hiker, Uno Socko (one sock), snacking and laying out our gear on the rocks to dry. Haiku, an older Asian woman I passed on the descent, arrives on the opposite bank. I hop over and offer to carry her pack across, but she is just taking a break.Break time over. Time to scale Crocker Mountain. Even with a break, food, and water, I feel sluggish climbing the 2200 foot ascent. For a time it's as steep going up as the last descent. It ranks with Kinsman and Webster in the Whites and Mahoosuc Arm in Maine for sheer exhaustion. I'm close to done when I reach the peak. Thankfully the trail relents a bit. The hike down to route 27 is Maine easy. Plenty of slippery roots and rocks but no extended crazy climbs or drops. A couple of miles from the road I pass the 2000 mile mark for those who started in Georgia. For me, starting at mile 1020, it means I'm close to a thousand miles. It's hard to comprehend. Yet, for all that, I've only moved from the 40th parallel to the 45th. It's a big world. It's taken far longer to reach the road than I hoped. Two dayhiker women in the parking lot ask if I just came off the AT and how it is. We chat a bit, but it never occurs to them I might need a ride to town. No worries, I call the hostel and Marching Band (2003 thruhiker adept at guitar, ukelele, and violin) comes out to pick up Lazarus and me. Stratton is a compact little town, larger than Andover, farther off the tourist trail than Rangeley, but near the Sugarloaf resort. The General Store advertises "Nous parlons francais". I have a bunk in the Stratton Motel's hostel. I arrange to stay a second night, convinced after today's mere 13 miles that my body and mind need a break. After a shower I attend to laundry down the road and a late lunch. Later I catch up with Sara and the kids and hear the progress of their kid-built playhouse. It's been a rough week with the dog being sick but things are getting better. I miss them and am looking forward to getting home soon.Waterboy is recuperating from Giardia in the hostel. I stayed with him in Gorham and bumped into him in Andover. He drank unfiltered water a few days back and it caught up with him yesterday. This is his second bout with Giardia. Also here are Commando (hikes in a kilt), Vince from South Africa, What's Her Name, Uno Socko and more. The place is full. Haiku shows up and is offered a shower but sleeps in her car. Lazarus is hammocking next to the motel along with a couple tenters. Campers pay less and get a shower and common area privileges. A popular choice for the budget-minded. Also popular is stealth camping at the road and hitching into town during the day. But there are advantages to hiking in middle-age. Affording a bunk is one of them. A late dinner at the White Wolf Inn next door turns out to be far better than expected. Gourmet quality bourbon-glazed pork at rural Maine prices. I leave quite full.Tomorrow is my first zero day. But there will be no sleeping in. The breakfast run is at seven.