Date: 2018-08-01
From: Lakes of the Clouds Hut

To: Madison Springs Hut
Miles today: 7.2

2018 Miles: 526.3From the earliest miles on a north-bound thru hike the ¢White Mountains ¢ of New Hampshire are a topic of discussion among the hikers. They are used to claim legitimacy among those who have experienced them or their fearsome reputation causes the hiker to wonder and anticipate what they must be like. In the south it is easy to put it out of your mind but as you approach the mid Atlantic states their presence up there standing between you and Maine cannot be ignored. Chief among them is the big brother peak - Mount Washington - with its reputation for causing deaths over the years and the ¢worst weather in the world¢.  My day had finally come. I was sleeping in it¢s shadow last night. Yesterday¢s weather was great and the peak stood proud above the assembled hikers below at Lakes of the Clouds Hut. Today¢s weather was more sketchy and we did not know what to expect.  It is a safety issue but also NOBO thru hikers have wanted a clear day to experience this climb and the views to the surrounding peaks and valleys for over 1800 miles. At first light I got up to see the birth of the new day. There were high clouds but a mostly clear sky - crystal clear at the summit with a slight hint of rosy sun tinting the edges of the high clouds - the light a silvery metal color. The mountain stood in clear gray and purple hues, almost sparkling, as the dawn advanced through its stages.  Glider and I agreed to be ready early and we set off first I think. When we left the mountain was completely shrouded in clouds with what appeared to be high winds, demonstrating the fickle nature of Mount Washington weather.  The hike up is climbing a rock pile, about 1200 feet. As I approached the various high ridges and false summits the clouds whipped around me in the high winds, sometimes thick and soupy and other times just wisps stretched into long thin lines. The wind became a factor as I hopped from rock to rock in a precarious battle to land on my feet, balanced and upright. Trail over a rock pile is hard to follow. There were no blazes as I remember, but just little (and some bigger) conical piles of stones, called cairns, stretched out in a long line to mark the way. One or two would be visible, the others only there by faith, not by sight, in the swirling cloud. Nearer the top the violent winds began to open up clear areas where I would get a glimpse of the high ridge line or even one of the buildings or communication towers and other equipment along the summit. It was like feeling my way along even though there was some visibility. It was exhilarating to be part of it, maybe a little eerie. I ¢felt¢ my way between the various buildings and boulder piles to finally find the ¢Mount Washington Summit¢ sign. Soon I saw Glider approach and asked him to get a picture, not knowing whether things would clear any better for us. We exchanged these duties and then found the building where we hoped the visitors center and snack bar would be. Sure enough, a little while later I saw life inside and then they opened the doors and let us in.  We spent about 90 minutes inside and later outside as the weather cleared in short spurts, and then more generally, finally opening up for great pictures and videos of the mountain and the surrounding peaks and valleys. I even got a video of the first cog railroad run for the day as the belching coal fired engine chugged up the line about 30 feet away as I made my way down from the summit - the passengers taking pictures of the hiker as the hiker was taking pictures of them.  The presidential range includes Washington, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison along with various other prominent peaks and ridges along the way - all presenting significant climbs, descents, and nasty rock piles as the trail treadway. It was like the Pennsylvania rocks on steroids and the soles of my feet feel as if they have been pounded with a hammer. As expected, about mid morning the general weather for the area deteriorated. I was in high winds and blowing cloud banks all day. A long and difficult day even though we cut it short to stay tonight at the Madison Spring Hut to escape the weather and rest from the day.  Craig, a hiker we were with before the big weather delay in Lincoln, was there also so we reconnected with him. Tomorrow we will hike the final descent to Pinkham Notch, resupply in Gorham NH, and get ready for the next section - the Carter-Moriah Range (sometimes called The Wildcats). I had momentary phone service atop Mt Washington and sent Marlene a cryptic text that I was at the summit. No response, and I had no service the rest of the day. So I am moving across New Hampshire slowly over the most difficult terrain yet. Today was all I wanted it to be. Hopefully I will be able to communicate some of the highlights tomorrow. Goodnight Sweetheart