Date: 2015-07-30
From: 1,829.1 campsite, NH

To: Nauman Campsite, NH
Miles today: 21.1

It's just after 9:00pm when beginning this entry. I'm lying in my tent trying to warm up from being soaked with rain for hours, ignoring the smells coming from my body. My tent is pitched on an elevated wooden platform alongside 3 other tents of hikers I don't know. Though most of today was an enjoyable struggle, I'm hoping sleep will help me forget the last few hours.I was up at 7:00am and began my morning routine of slowly packing my gear. I emerged from my tent just before 8:00am to find Moosehead and Burnsides already gone (I'd later find out they left at 4:45am to catch the sunrise.) I said good morning to Huey since he was the only one I heard moving, then said goodbye as I hit the trail alone at 8:00am. I'd spend the entire day hiking alone - enjoying the solitude most of the day, but wishing I had company towards the latter half. I began immediately by climbing ~1,100ft in the first .8 miles to the summit of South Twin Mountain. The morning was clear and beautiful and I'd enjoy a short break as I took a few pictures and enjoyed the view. Behind me rose the Franconia Ridge, Mt. Garfield, and even Mt. Moosilauke in the distance, now becoming a blue-shaded peak in the distance. In front of me extended the Presidential Range with the sharp peak of Mt. Washington jutting out above the rest of New Hampshire. Even at just over ~20 miles away, it was clear this mountain means business, already appearing to rise higher than the highest point of the Franconia Ridge, Mt. Lafayette. It was a strange feeling being able to look around and see the exact terrain and distance I've covered over the last couple days and where, in the shadow of Mt. Washington, where I'd be ending my day.I continued off of South Twin Mountain towards Mt. Guyot, but would end up missing the turn due to poor signage. I'd end up hiking .8 miles in the wrong direction before the caretaker at a campsite kindly sent me in the right direction. At first I was a little angry that nearly an hour was blown, but then found myself enjoying the fact that I still summited another scenic little mountain that made for a good picture. I returned to Mt. Guyot and continued on the correct trail and eventually reached Zeacliff Mountain soon after. Supposedly the summit offers a scenic overlook, but after following a side trail to said overlook, all I found was a sign surrounded by trees marking the summit. I have a feeling I just didn't go far enough, choosing instead not to follow what looked like little used trails leading into the surrounding trees. Oh well, back to the trail.I continued until I reached Zealand Falls Hut just before noon. With 2 hurting knees from wiping out on slick boulders, I limped in looking for something to boost my weary spirits. I asked the nice, young member of the hut crew if there was any soup available to which she quickly served me up a hot bowl of curry soup. Even though it was hot outside, the feeling of a hot meal was just what I needed. I also enjoyed a glass of lemonade and 2 chocolate-covered waffles - all for $3.00. A handful of day hikers and hut guests dropped in and out of the dining area, but I sat and enjoyed my own company for the most part. After an hour I persuaded myself to keep going and was back on the trail after a brief stop by Zealand Falls.The next ~7 miles were a treat in that it was a stretch of mostly flat terrain despite the elevation of the surrounding terrain. The coolest part of the day took place here when, rounding a corner and seeing a chipmunk scurry off, I noticed it drop its baby from its mouth in the process. I picked up the baby chipmunk, comparable to the size of a newborn rabbit, and held it as it lightly tossed around in my hands. The parent chipmunk, on the other hand, ran in circles around me, occasionally popping out of the bushes to look for its baby. I returned the baby to the ground and walked a few feet away to watch. The parent returned to the baby, picked it up in its 2 front "arms" and proceeded to roll the baby around in every direction while what seemed to be smelling or licking it, most likely determining if it was in fact it's baby. Then, just like that, the parent chipmunk darted off into the woods with baby riding in its mouth. Able to finally hike with a rhythm, I found my usual groove and covered this stretch of land running between 2 large ridges in just under 3 hours before descending ~1,400ft into Crawford Notch. With rain in the forecast, I thought rain was soon approaching as I descended and the sky in front of me darkened through the overhead trees. I quickly realized, however, that the sky was darkening as the start of the Presidential Range, Mt. Webster, grew higher. Even though my planned finish point was only ~6 miles away, I knew it'd take most of the ~5 hours left of sunlight to reach it.I slowly began the ~2,700ft climb, but would soon find myself taking refuge from the first rain in several days. With nowhere to hide, I hiked until I found a dry spot along the trail where the overhead foilage prevented most of the rain from reaching. I sat down at the base of a pine tree, threw my pack cover on, and huddled in a ball under my rain jacket, the goal being to keep my feet dry. After half an hour of nodding in and out of sleep, the rain ceased and I returned to the climb that'd ultimately take a couple hours to accomplish. As I reached Webster Cliffs, a half-mile stretch dotted with dangerous, exposed cliffs overlooking the Notch below, the rain returned and there was no place to take cover. Though not a heavy downpour, the increased wind blowing up the side of the mountain made it a steady sideways rain, quickly soaking me, my shoes, and my spirits. As much as I wanted to stop and put up my tent, doing so atop an exposed ridge would've been stupid. I figured the only way to stay relatively warm anyways was to keep hiking.Onward and over Mt. Webster and then Mt. Jackson, rain continued falling as low clouds zipped just overhead. Although I initially wanted to curse the rain, the wind, and the cold, I ultimately decided to embrace it for what it was - an experience. After several series of hand-over-hand climbing up nearly vertical rock walls, I finally reached Mizpah Spring Hut and Nauman Campsite around 7:30pm. I quickly bumped into Moosehead and Burnsides despite the packed hut, guests just finishing up their dinners. Moosehead and Burnsides were bitter after finding out the work-for-stay positions had already been taken by 2 hikers aho, after staying in a hotel last night, only hiked ~6 miles today to reach the hut. Having just finished ~21 miles and watching said hikers eat their share of food at a nearby table made me bitter as well. It soon disappeared, though, as we were offered just enough leftover food to feed the handful of hungry, weary thru-hikers. I had a small bowl of peas and some kinda enchilada casserole. It wasn't enough to fill me up, let alone give me the feeling of having actually ate, but it was calories nonetheless.As the sun faded and was replaced by the full moon, I made my way from the hut to the nearby Nauman Campsite which brings me back to where I began this entry. The wind has picked up and looks to bring a cool night. I'm at least now in dry clothes, hoping I'll be able to stay warm enough. Even though today was challenging, the White's are an endless gauntlet as tomorrow brings another round as I plan to make my way across the Presidential Range, some ~15 miles if my body can take me there. The weather is supposed to be nice so hopefully I'll be summiting Mt. Clinton, Mt. Eisenhower, Mt. Franklin, Mt. Monroe, Mt. Washington - second highest peak on the AT topping out at 6,288ft - Mt. Clay, and Mt. Jefferson before ending up at the Madison Spring Hut. I've made it a point to be flexible on the trail, and that definitely goes for an area such as the White's, so tomorrow will play out as it should. For now, I wrap this entry up and head to what's hopefully a decent night of sleep.Here's to a warm bowl of curry soup, the start of the Presidentials, and the similarities of a parents love for its offspring despite our genetic differences.