Date: 2009-12-26
To: View Entry
Miles today: 0.0

Dear friends,Merry Christmas.My Appalachian Trail hike has come to an end! One week ago I returned to Minnesota, after completing the 2,000 mile trek from Maine to Georgia. It feels good to be home. Here are some reflections.Jo - I met Jo in May and by June she had convinced me to accompany her on the adventure she'd dreamed of since third grade. She taught me most of what I know about backpacking - how to use a pop can stove, how to hang a bear bag, which end of the tent your feet go. We made a good team, balancing out each others' strengths and weaknesses, laughing often and keeping each other sane under trying circumstances. After dealing with blisters, bruises, strained muscles and aching joints for four months Jo was forced to stop hiking and return to Minnesota. We'd agreed beforehand that if one of us had to leave the trail we'd support the other in finishing. That didn't make parting any easier, but we celebrated how far we'd come and agreed to remain a part of each others' lives as I continued on.Nature - Hiking across 14 states you become close - often breathtakingly close - to nature. We ran into several moose, coyotes, a wild boar, deer, turkeys, a pack of hunting dogs, snakes (including a huge rattler) and all manner of beetles, bugs, slugs and other critters. We scaled rocky cliffs, forded raging rivers, breathed in the scent of humus and pine, ate lunch beneath waterfalls, crunched through colorful fall leaves, watched the sun rise, slept under the stars and, most of all, climbed hundreds of mountains. Yes, hundreds!Friends - We quickly made friends with other south bounders, especially Mountain Yogi and Smokin¢ Loon, who I joined up with after Jo left. Zeus was the most profane yet endearing person I've ever met (his given name really is Zeus). I took a liking to Dick Freeman, a self-styled prophet who let the bank foreclose on his house so he could sojourn on the trail. And there was Tiger, thin as a rail, hiking on behalf of an AIDS charity he supports. Other friends included Firebuilder, who taught me how to build a fire in the rain, Ninja, who gave me my trail name (Hungry Creepster, long story), Root Beer Float, Lightweight, G-fog and the Graff Brothers. And finally, Isaac, who was brave enough to let me drive his stick-shift on the way from Minnesota to Maine.Strangers - Our best memories are of our encounters with strangers. There was the grumpy old man who put me up in a hotel when I was sick, explaining that his ¢spiritual advisor¢ had charged him with helping weary hikers. Another man offered me his cabin for the night only to learn I was a fellow Concordia College graduate. There were former hikers who left trail magic at road crossings - usually snacks or drinks. And there were the hostel owners, most of whom made no money but enjoyed the company. The former mayor of Unionville, NY forces every hiker to watch a video of a Britain¢s Got Talent contestant singing an aria with the refrain VINCERO, or "I will win!" Chet, a real-life hippie in Lincoln, NH, was in a near-fatal camp stove explosion and puts up hikers in his garage as part of his inspiring recovery. Also, we grew to love hitch-hiking. "I'm just on my way to pick up supplies for my yurt," said one driver. "I'm just returning from having blood work done," exclaimed another. "I'm just about to go shoot myself a bear!" You get the idea.The Body - While Jo was in pain most days, I lucked out and sustained only minor injuries. As it turned out, food was my biggest issue. I quickly discovered how dependent my attitude can be on my stomach. Balancing pack weight and my huge appetite was a constant challenge which involved carefully reading the nutrition labels on candy bars and peanut butter in search of sufficient calories. Jo would laugh at how many miles I was willing to hitch-hike to get to a buffet. Despite our horrendous diet, I was pleasantly surprised at how consistent my energy was throughout the trip. I credit the 18 mile a day walks, fresh air and One A Day vitamins.The Spirit - I went into the hike anticipating a grand adventure, a test of character and an opportunity for personal growth. A pilgrimage, even. I am naturally thoughtful and deliberate; this was an opportunity to embrace risk and spontaneity. The routine and simplicity of the trail were a welcome relief from the distractions of civilization. The austerity allowed for a richer inner life. People and situations became distilled to their essence. I felt more attuned to the present. One of the biggest things we learned was to "trust the abundance" and let the universe provide for us. Time and time again our needs were taken care of in unexpected ways. The trail, we discovered, had its own economy based on generosity, gratitude and serendipity, where stories functioned as currency and trust was a given. The experience has left me wanting to simplify my life, embrace the unknown and give generously.Reaching a physical destination was not my only goal. But having completed the trail feels amazing. As someone who struggles with completing things, I expect this small victory will give me some momentum as I take on future projects.Thanks to everyone who supported us!Phillip