Date: 2006-08-27
From: Franconia Notch

To: Galehead Hut
Miles today: 13.0
Weather: overcast clouds

What a glorious day to be alive! I love this trail and this thru-hike. Yesterday I had planned to hike from Eliza Brook Shelter to Liberty Spring Campsite, but fate had other plans. I spent the morning hiking up and across Kinsman Mountain, which was beautiful and oh so rewarding! I came down the north side in the early afternoon and got a $2 bottomless bowl of creamy tomato soup at the Lonesome Lake Hut. Five bowls of soup and a loaf of bread later, I was heading down to Franconia Notch. No Pliers showed up at the Hut as I was fixing to leave, so we hiked down to the road together, planning to hitch into Lincoln for some supplies. When we got to the parking lot, we were hailed by a man in a pickup truck, asking if we needed a ride into town. Fifteen minutes later he was dropping us off at a grocery story in Lincoln, explaining that he'd thru-hiked in '90 (trail name "Mr. Bill" - his real name is Bill). He proceeded to invite us to stay with him and his family at his in-laws in North Woodstock, just up the road. It didn't take No Pliers and I long to take Bill up on his offer, and before we knew it were at his in-law's place.Their house sits on a huge plot complete with a pond, chicken coops, and an array of gardens yielding peaches, blackberries, beans, zucchini, squash, pumpkins, corn, grapes, apples, hot peppers, bell peppers and much more. Doris and Dean are Bill's in-laws and they were both amazingly hospitable hosts. Dean is a retired Methodist minister. Apparently his daughter Kristen (Bill's wife) is a chip off the old block for she's also a minister, as is Bill. They were quite the holy company, yet not pushy at all in their theology. Very respectful and compassionate.While Kristen and Bill's three kids - Emily (8), Katie (6) and Will (4) - showed No Pliers and I around the yard, the four adults made up a feast to satisfy the hungriest thru-hiker. Pasta with fresh tomato sauce, garlic bread, corn on the cob and green beans, plus peach cobbler for dessert. And the best part, all the vegetables and fruits were from the garden. Incredible and incredibly delicious!After the kids' went to bed we all played a fun game of Mexican Train Dominoes. During the game, Bill mentioned that when we had gotten up that morning we probably didn't figure to be playing dominoes that night at some strangers' house. He was right! It was so random to have all this happen to us, yet so magical!No Pliers and I each had a room and bed to ourselves that night, in which I slept like a king. This morning Doris treated us to a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs, home fries, toast and freshly canned jelly. Mmm!When Bill dropped us off at the trail this morning, my belly was full and my heart was touched. These people were so kind and generous to me, and so many people have treated me likewise since I started this hike. Whoever has lost their faith in humanity need only thru-hike the AT to have their faith restored!Hiking today was quite the adventure. It was a steep and arduous climb up onto Franconia Ridge (2.5 miles, 2500' of elevation gain), but once up there it was a great ridge hike. I ascended Little Haystack, Mt. Lincoln, Mt. Lafayette and Mt. Garfield in succession, above treeline most of the way. The views would have been fantastic had the rain clouds not rolled in. However, that just added to the experience. By Mt. Lafayette the wind was roaring and almost blowing me off my feet! It was only with a wide stance, baby steps and tight grips on my poles that I was able to make my way. I made it to Galehead Hut by 4:15pm, a total of 13 miles, and was elated to find they had "work-for-stay" available. The huts in the White Mountains are run by the Applachain Mtn. Club and a thru-hiker passes about a half dozen of them. These huts are basically full-service lodges that cater to weekend hikers, not thru-hikers. They charge upwards to $80/night, an obvious problem for thru-hikers. However, each hut will usually take in 2 thru-hikers a night in exchange for an hour of work. It's not a perfect system, but it works pretty well. On a rainy and cold day like today, I'll be glad to have a warm place inside to sleep! 1814.9 miles down, 360.1 to go!Bear Can