Date: 2003-08-14
From: Garfield Ridge Campsite

To: Crawford Notch
Miles today: 17.4
Weather: scattered clouds

Well, we really ARE trying to take our time in the Whites and not beat ourselves up. But circumstances (and town food) led us out more quickly than expected, and we ended up doing big miles. Tired puppies, we are. Don't ask us to walk down any stairs.It was refreshingly cool this morning. An unusual sight - the morning sky pinking up. We'll have some sun again!Freemont had gone to a nearby overlook last night to look for shooting stars, the moon, and Mars, which was as close to the Earth as it has ever been in recorded history. He said it was visible in the southeastern sky.Our muscles are very stiff and weary this morning. No respite in sight, either. Right out of the box we must scramble down a steep, rocky ravine that is also a creek. We're often butt-sliding to avoid a fall. But the rocks are half dry today, and that helps immensely. Two hours later, we have crawled up to the remote and windy Galehead Hut. The broad porch beckons, and we eat a bottomless bowl of split pea soup, coffee and gingerbread in the pleasant, planked dining room. The moan of the wind around the corners of the spacious, new hut is eerie. A wind turbine joins forces with the solar panels on the roof to power the compact fluorescent light, two-way radio and privy fans.We return to the boreal forest of rocks, thin soils and evergreen conifers. In Greek mythology, Boreas was the god of the north wind, and there is plenty of it whipping around Galehead. We were in the clouds too, the whole time. We trek on to Zealand Falls Hut, where we are to meet Art. First, we top out on the lovely Mt. Guyot at over 4,500 feet. Treeline in NH is around 4,200 feet. From there it was roughly downhill, as in up and downhill. But the weather made us happy campers, sun most of the day. By mid-afternoon we cross the smooth rock trough of Zealand Falls and swing around to find Art holding forth on the porch. He is the most gregarious soul I know, and very relaxed in retirement.We've done 10 hard miles and we are preparing to do almost 8 more, as Art needs to walk out tonight. We can do it, we coach ourselves. First, we take off our shoes and air our hot feet and tired ankles. Then, hot soup and Snickers from the huts.Art's positive banter fills the air and entertains us as we walk back. It is just dark, about 8:30, when we stumble into the parking lot. I could have kissed his truck!Once again, my buddy Art has rescued us from the Wilderness. He even drives by Subway, where we chow down. Then he drives us to the house of our hostess for the night: my transciber Suz.I've been looking forward to this visit for a long time. Suz is an Episcopal priest, a single mom of near-grown children, a strong and avid hiker and just an all-around good gal. She's the reason these entries get posted so quickly, and spell-checked (and, sometimes, deciphered). She just spent her Minnesota vacation in the hospital having a mega-stone worked thru her plumbing. Now she opens her lovely home to us. She's a brick! Except that she laughs at how we go down her stairs.We shower, then crash. Man, do we need a rest! Our muscles are shot.