Date: 2014-07-18
From: Greenleaf Hut

To: Galehead Hut
Miles today: 7.7

Greenleaf Hut to Galehead Hut--7.7 tortuous miles in 9 hours!I am so tired that I can barely think to write my journal tonight. How can I be hiking so slowly? I left before breakfast was over this morning because I was anxious to get started. The morning air was crisp and I could see that Mt Lafayette was enshrouded by clouds. The 1.1 mile hike to the summit took an hour, even though I felt strong. As I studied the sign on the mist, Rammy appeared. We hiked on together. A cold wind blew at the top and so I kept my fleece on. We couldn't see any views except when the wind would blow the clouds apart and we would see amazing views below us. We emerged from the mist for the scary descent down the ridge line. The steep and pebbly descent slowed us down in an effort to avoid a face plant on the mountain. As we picked our way along, I would stop occasionally to admire the view. We picked our way along ever so slowly. Was there no bottom to this mountain??? Soon, my missing half of breakfast became evident and I was starving. We stopped at a nice alcove of trees that, upon closer inspection, revealed a beautiful campsite. We were wishing that we had brought our tents for greater flexibility. I didn't think we would be able to tent since most of our walking is above tree line. But now I see that tenting is a possibility. And the spots are so beautiful. Rejuvenated from our snack, we took off again. Lots of downs and ups. My favorite part was a scramble over a rock wall that I remembered from my section hike here. Hikers had carved a new route through the bushes which was disappointing. But I did the scramble up the wall, walking on a narrow ledge and holding onto a crack in the rock. I knew I could do it because I had done it before. And that was the responsible way to ascend that precipice. I think Rammy is beginning to think I'm nuts. Often, we are passed by day hikers, thru hikers and children. Today, a NOBO named Lunch caught up to us. We walked together for a little while then introduced ourselves. Lunch said that he had heard of me and told me I was famous. That lifted my spirits and I picked up the pace a bit. Still, Rammy was able to hike faster than I could. We reached the summit of Garfield and he climbed to the very top to eat his lunch. The day was sunny and bright with amazing views of the Pemigewasset wilderness, the peaks that we had hiked and the peaks that were before us. In the distance, we could see Mt Washington in the clouds. A brisk breeze gave me the chills and I regretted not taking my fleece. Rammy lent me his coat and I snuggled into a little corner in the rocks and relished my lunch. We lingered for awhile then took off for the final 3 miles. Now, that sounds like a very short distance but the obstacles were tremendous. I spent a lot of time throwing my poles on the descents and tossing them up on the climbs and using roots to help me. Often, I slid down wet boulders. I don't want to see what my backside looks like, but it was the closest thing I've had to a bath in the past few days. I smell after dinner coffee as I sit out in the evening air at the Galehead hut. Those three miles took us three and a half hours. At the end, I was so tired that I wanted to cry at each new climb. The hut was a welcomed sight!We entered the hut and immediately went to the desk to speak with the hut croo. They explained that they had no empty bunks but that they had work for stay as an option. We were the first thru hikers to arrive(amazing) and it was 5:00! Lucky us!!!We were instructed to sit outside and to wait until after dinner when we would eat with the hut croo. While sitting outside, we met another they hiker who was moving on to get in more miles. I wish I could do that. After dinner, we will sweep or wipe tables or clean dishes. Then we get the whole floor to sleep on! Life is good!