Date: 2005-07-18
From: Kinsman Pond Campsite

To: Garfield Ridge Campsite
Miles today: 15.3
Weather: moderate rain

Miles hiked today : 15.315.1 AT miles + 0.2 mile of side trailFor the first time in a long while, I didn't wake up until my alarm went off, most likely because I was exhausted at the end of the day yesterday. I awoke at 6:00 a.m., packed, ate breakfast, and hiked out with Opa at 6:55 a.m.My first stop of the day was Lonesome Lake Hut, which was 1.9 miles away. The terrain was as rough as it was yesterday and I arrived at 8:25 a.m. Upon arriving, I was greeted by the Croo who asked whether I wanted breakfast leftovers. Score! I had pancakes, eggs, and juice, and although the food was cold, it was still good. There was also cream of wheat and coffee cake available, though I wasn't quite hungry enough to eat more than 3 pancakes and some scrambled eggs.The section of trail between Lonesome Lake Hut and Franconia Notch (Interstate 93) was superb. I was able to stretch out my legs to a full stride and didn't have any of the rock stepping that has been frequent as of late. I passed the 1,800 mile mark of the AT after hiking less than a mile from the hut and arrived at Franconia Notch at 10:15 a.m., having covered 2.9 miles. Although I've accepted the fact that my hiking pace in the Whites has been atenuated, it was nice being able to hike at a normal pace. 5 minutes later, I was at the Franconia Notch Bike Path and stopped for a 10 minute rest and water break.From Franconia Notch, I began a 3,639 foot climb over 5.4 miles up to Mount Lincoln. The climb began at a decent grade and I hoped it would be a pleasant climb the entire way. After a bit, the slope increased and the path turned into rock stepping. At 11:35 a.m., I stopped for a 10 minute rest break and reached Liberty Spring Campsite at 12:20 p.m., stopping for 20 minutes to gather and treat 2 liters of water.Pushing on, I reached the Franconia Ridge Trail at 1:00 p.m. and, minutes later, heavy rain began to pour. I stopped to put on my rain jacket and listened as thunder rumbled in the background. That wasn't a good sign, as I was headed above treeline. Opa and I agreed that we wouldn't go above treeline until more than 30 minutes had elapsed since the last thunderclap.At 2:00 p.m., the rain was still pouring hard, thunder was still occasionally sounding, and we were getting closer to treeline. I saw a cave-like rock crevice big enough for both Opa and I, so I dropped my pack on the trail and crawled in. It took a little convincing to get Opa to crawl in, though my main argument was that it was dry in the cave and safe from lightning. He crawled in, but wasn't very comfortable laying on his side, though he was unwilling to lay on his back as I was. I was fairly comfortable except for the occasional drip of water in my face. The wind began to blow into the crevice and I knew that we wouldn't be able to stay for long before the risk of chill became an issue.After 10 minutes in the cave, we heard somebody coming up the trail. I called out "Who goes there?" but was not answered. I repeated my inquiry and was answered with "Hold your horses!" After a moment, Opa announced that it was Michael! He and Sean had skipped a section of trail to try to catch up to us and I found it rather amusing that he found us hiding in a cave. The thunder sounded distant and the rain had just stopped, so we continued on as a group of 3, with Sean somewhere further down the hill behind us.Climb, climb, climb, rock step, rock step, rock step. I rose above treeline, the wind was blowing fiercely, and I knew I was close to Mount Lincoln. I actually crossed over the summit without realizing it, as there wasn't a summit sign. Strange for a 5,089 foot peak. At 3:30 p.m., I reached a trail junction, which told me that I was at the summit of 5.249 foot tall Mount Lafayette. I stopped for a 40 minute lunch break with Michael and Opa and we were soon joined by Sean.The view would have been incredible if the sky wasn't saturated with clouds. Regardless, it made for a very serene lunch time setting. Continuing north, the clouds dissipated a bit and I was able to glimpse a couple far off hills. From Mount Lafayette, I had 3.9 miles to cover to Garfield Ridge Campsite. Having already hiked 11.3 miles, this wasn't the most exciting prospect, though I headed out anyway. At 6:15 p.m., I reached Garfield Pond and stopped for a 15 minute rest and water break. Mount Garfield was my only remaining obstacle for the day and I scrambled up, over, and down it to reach the campsite at 7:20 p.m.Exhausted. That's the best word to describe my condition when I arrived. I pulled off my boots and wet socks, treated water, and made dinner. After dinner, I made hot chocolate and popped 2 ibuprofen, which I hadn't take in more than a month. I should have taken some last night, as I had early morning knee pain in my left knee today. I suppose I didn't take any last night because I was too proud to do so, as I haven't needed any. Tonight, there was no such pride. My feet were extremely sore from 12+ miles of rock stepping, as was my back, and I wanted to ensure that I would sleep well.After making hot chocolate, I crawled into my sleeping bag to journal and read. Tomorrow morning, I'm headed 2.7 miles to a hut to try to score leftover breakfast, then I'm continuing on an additional 7.0 miles to try to get work for stay at yet another hut. The Whites are definitely hard and a 9.7 mile day tomorrow sounds divine.Bedtime at 10:35 p.m.