Date: 2008-08-07
From: Monson, Maine

To: Long Pond Stream Lean-To
Miles today: 15.0
Weather: light rain

Leaving Monson I officially entered into the 100-mile Wilderness. A sign at the trailhead warned hikers to be prepared with 10 days of food and supplies. I had five days of food with me to get me to Whitehouse Landing. From the resupply at Whitehouse Landing, I would have another 3 days of food. I know there are a lot of hikers who take fewer days, but based upon past experience I¢m good with the seven days through the Wilderness and the last day through Baxter State Park.Soon I went past a couple of ponds set deep in the woods. Some of the rocks are slabs vertically out of the ground. I met up with two men hiking the trail north by going south. They are slackpacking and shuttling and hiking the trail in directions that are the easiest for them. They have vehicle support and even can sleep in their vehicle sometimes. We passed each other near Mud pond, a little mountain pond at the base of some big rock ledges. From on top I can see the Barren Chairback Range directly ahead. The AT guidebook warns hikers about the large streams in this area northeast of Monson, part of a 15-mile section running from Hwy. 15 to Long Pond Stream. I was planing on doing all 15 miles of it today.The elevation of this section is very low. The highest I would get is about 1,400 feet on Big Wilson Cliffs. The trail is very nice, traversing slate ridges, some ledges with views, huge mossy boulders, and valleys and gorges, all with streams. There are ponds, swamps, bogs, and waterfalls.There were also many "streams" to cross, especially after a steady rain fell last night and this morning. There is supposed to be between three-quarters and a inch of rain today, all day. The guidebook warns about dangerous crossings of the larger streams if the water is high.The trail was one big creek and puddle with all the associated run-off. Of course I realized the creeks would be higher than normal. Although Big Wilson might be a problem, the AT guidebook indicated there was a "high water route" I could take by following the river downstream for 1.5 miles to a road, crossing on a bridge, and going back upstream another 1.5 miles on the other side of the river.The first bad crossing was about three miles down the trail, right below the Leeman Brook Lean-To. Leeman Brook was a narrow chute full of knee deep water moving very fast. I was able to hold onto a fallen tree and large rock for balance. Then up a steep, rocky bank on the other side. Hiked up to the lean-to, soaked. Although it did absolutely no good, I rung out my soaked clothes and then had a snack.There were several more ponds and mossy rock outcroppings and I trudged through more water-soaked trail, having to slow down my intended mph pace. Soon I started hearing the roar of Little Wilson Falls, a spectacular waterfall that runs through slate walls. This is supposed to be the highest waterfall on the entire AT.The "stream" itself was only two-tenths of a mile downstream. I could only imagine how fast the water flow would be down there. Hunted up and down the area near the crossing, trying to determine where the safest place would be to ford the "stream." (it looked something like 30-40 feet across). Couldn't even see the rocks on the bottom so I had no idea about the depth.Then I saw a rope that had been strung (by whom?) across the stream. The water was so high that the rope was almost touching the water. It seemed to be pretty sturdy but I am being honest when I say I was really scared about trying to cross. The water came up to my knees. I was holding onto the rope with one hand and had a trekking pole in my other hand. I¢d also learned from past experience to walk across on the downstream side of the rope so the current wouldn¢t push me against the rope. The current got stronger and I was really close to losing my balance. If there had been some way to turn around (there wasn¢t) I probably would have gone back. Half-way across, I gave up on using my hiking pole because the current was just too strong. That¢s when I switched to using both hands on the rope. Quickly I lost my footing because the current was too strong. By this time, the water was chest-deep. I was able to stay above water because the stream bottom still wasn¢t that deep. But all of me and my pack was soaked. This is one of those times that I was really glad that everything in my pack was inside a large plastic trash compactor bag. From here I just used both hands to pull myself the rest of the way across. I was unbelievably happy to have made it across. I was also probably pretty lucky. But this was the Little Wilson stream and the Big Wilson stream was still to come.The next three miles were pretty easy. Even the rain stopped for a while. Climbed over lots of slate on the Big Wilson Cliffs. At that time I was about two miles from the Big Wilson. I knew without any doubt I would be taking the alternate route even though it would add about three extra miles to my day. Shortly after I ran into two south-bounders who had actually tried to cross the Big Wilson stream. They had made it across after two tries. They saw another southbounder try and lose his hiking poles. He had to retreat. I hiked on and came to a left turn in the trail and could see what looked to be Big Wilson "Stream." But this was a different crossing. It wasn't going to be any less wide, deep, or swift half a mile upstream where the AT crosses it. I was on a smooth path now for the first time. It was the Big Wilson Road. I came to Thompson Brook and wasn't sure about crossing. It was about twenty-five feet across and I couldn't tell how deep it was. Then I saw a "road". It went in the right direction and was the "high water route," to take as an alternate to crossing Big Wilson stream. It was actually muddier than the AT had been. I followed it about ten minutes, and came to multiple streams from the Big Wilson.An hour later I reached the road and bridge over the Big Wilson. I was knee-deep in many puddles and had to cross several more streams near their emptying point at the river. At one point I was on a decent path and could see footprints. Those were recent human footprints and were my only sign that I was on the right blue-blazed path. Then I hiked the 1.5 miles back to the trail, on the other side of Big Wilson stream. I was really grateful that there were still visible footprints in the mud. That kept me going in the right direction until I could see the white blazes back on the trail.Now I needed a rest break and some food to get my energy level back. Stopped in at the Wilson Valley Lean-To. No one else was there. Rested for at least 20 or so minutes and then headed out. My next obstacle was a rock ¢scree¢ that looked to be about two football fields long. I know there are hikers who would cross it by jumping from rock to rock. Not me ¢ even in dry weather. And today the rocks were very wet. First I needed to look ahead for the white blazes to make sure I was going in the right direction. Then I pretty much sat down on a rock while I scooted to the next rock. It took a lot of time but it worked.After this there were several creeks (including Vaughn Stream and Long Pond Stream) and I was worried about getting across them. I did manage to get across each of these creeks okay. The most challenging was Long Pond. Its current was strong but I was smart enough to go upstream a bit where it was wider and somewhat more shallow. The water only came up to my thighs. I went slowly and was across without any trouble. Vaughn stream and the other creeks were a lot easier than I had expected.The last mile for the day had about a 400 foot elevation climb. Took it slow and was then at Long Pond Stream Lean-To. Although I only hiked an ¢offical¢ 15 miles today, there were three extra miles when I took the Big Wilson bypass trail. A really rough day. Two other northbounders were already at the shelter and a third showed up after I got there. They had all opted to take the bypass trail.Tomorrow there is supposed to be a lot less rain and lower temps. That will be nice. I¢m also only hiking 11 miles tomorrow. Of course that¢s assuming there are no more bypass trails that I¢ll need to take.Logs On Top Of Mud