Date: 2015-05-07
From: Atkins Relax Inn

To: Chestnut Knob Shelter
Miles today: 23.8
Weather: clear sky

I hiked with Chris today. Or, actually, I hiked behind Chris. He was, as he put it, on "spider patrol". Whoever is on the trail first gets the lovely duty of running into all the spider webs strung across the trail. I have had this pleasure many times, as I usually get up early. This always reminds me of Kate on the Sundew Trail at Schoodic. We started out on the road, departing from the Relax Inn (I must say I did relax... I slept like a rock) around 6:30. I started out in my 10s, and for some reason developed shin splints in my left leg after about two minutes. I stopped under interstate 81 and retied my shoes, but it didn't help. I retied them again. No improvement. I gave up and put on my camp shoes. I am destroying my feet every day. I think I might lose a toenail tomorrow.I enjoyed the hike with Chris. He kept a good pace, slowing down for me on uphills but flying on the downhills. We made good time, uphill and downhill, then up again and down again. The trail was beautiful. More forest, cow fields, amd orchards. At one point I turned around in a field to enjoy the view. I said something like, "It's so pretty!" Which brought Chris out of his intense hiking reverie, and we enjoyed the view together.Another thing I do NOT enjoy (in addition to hills) is climbing over the stiles to get over barbed-wire fences. I am not coordinated enough for this. Especially not with Bertha throwing off my center of gravity, and trying to find a place to put my trekking poles without stabbing myself in the leg.We talked occasionally as we walked, discussing high school, careers, and coincidence. The trail always seems to deliver things we need when we need them most, be it trail magic, a new friend, or a ride into town. Somehow, so far, everything has worked out. The trail is strange and amazing in that way.Sometimes long periods of silence lapsed, which I appreciated, being able to get some of my own thinking done. I lagged behind a little (especially uphill) and contemplated life. Yesterday didn't allow for a lot of thinking, but was full of conversation. That was good, too, but today it was nice to think.At one point we passed a random privy in the middle of the woods, which was very random and puzzled me. Apparently it is attached to some campsites, though, my guidebook tells me.We also passed two coolers full of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and cola left by a past thru-hiker. I ate half a sandwich, while Chris ate the other half amd another sandwich. We chatted with other hikers we passed throughout the day.We passed a sign for the 1/4 way mark in the morning amd stopped for a snack and picture opportunity. It wasn't actually in the right place, but it was close enough. Every year the trail changes routes, and miles are added and subtracted. We ate some chocolate to celebrate. I picked the M&Ms out of my trail mix. It was actually a perfect stopping point, because it was about three hours after breakfast, and uphill, and I had been losing momentum. I feel like I might die every time I look up and find myself at the bottom of a hill.The first shelter was really far... 14 or 15 miles out of Atkins. We stopped there for lunch, and a very kind trio of section hikers (a girl, her aunt, and uncle) shared TORTILLAS WITH ALMOND BUTTER AND HONEY. I had already eaten lunch but ate more anyway. And it was fantastic. I thanked them energetically. I have been wanting almond butter lately for some reason. It made me so happy.We continued on and eventually made it to the point we had been drawing up to all day, which I had NOT been waiting for, but horribly, horribly dreading. The last, big, HUGE MONSTER hill up to Chestnut Knob Shelter. The guidebook makes it look like a nice, gradual incline. Long, but doable. We stood at the bottom, bracing ourselves. "This is it!" "Can you do it?" "I CAN, but I don't want to. But I don't have a choice." "You always have a choice." "I mean, I do, but I don't. I have to do it. I will do it."And let me tell you, the guidebook LIES. It was a freaking steep climb, then a little flat bit, then another hugeass, miserable, horrible, spirit-crushing monster of a climb. It felt like it went on forever. Sweat poured out of every pore of my body while my calves burned from the exertion. It was not fun. But as we approached the top, we were treated to an amazing view, hills rolling into the distance. The last miles ambled through the grass, past old orchard trees and wildflowers.My feet are killing me, but that view was worth the climb. It was even worth being disgustingly drenched in my own sweat. Every time I think I can't get more disgusting, I do. I have been feeling exhausted and burnt out lately, but tonight I had one of those wonderful "I love the AT" moments. It was a long day but I feel lucky to have lived it.I even have service here! So I got to talk to Dad, and confirmed tomorrow's meeting point with Mom. I am very excited for the weekend. Two rest days, and maybe even pizza, with people I love. SO EXCITING. And I might get new shoes! Little else could be better at this point.I am thankful for Chris. He has been a good hiking companion. I am thankful for gifts of peanut butter and jelly and almond butter and honey. I am thankful to be in a beautiful place, listening to birdsong and filling my lungs with fresh air. I am thankful we arrived at the shelter before the brief rain storm, and I am thankful to have so much to look forward to.