Date: 2012-04-28
From: Hot Springs, NC

To: Hot Springs, NC
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

This is my zero day at the Sunnybank Inn. Planned and packaged a mail drop for Roan Mountain. Attend communal breakfast at Inn with Elmer and other guests. Drop package at Post Office. Shop for Clif Bars and Milky Way candy bars at outfitter and Dollar General. Compose and send Smoky Mountains update to email list from library. Have lunch at diner. Call Carolyn and Mom. Clean and prepare gear. Attach new velcro tabs to boots for attaching gaiters. Do ear wax treatment. Shower. Pay bill for stay at Inn. Call Cindy. A long and busy day. If the Smoky Mountains did not show us the full fury of their grandeur, at least they gave us a good peak. The day before I entered the park the sun went away and we had some late afternoon rain. But I was not bothered because I was under cover at the Fontana Lodge and suspected nothing ominous. Early the following morning, with overcast skies, I walked the road across the top of Fontana Dam. I had the dam entirely to myself, not another person was there. I did notice about a dozen raptors floating on the quiet breeze just above the dam crest. I thought they were hawks, but their markings were unfamiliar. As I got closer to the birds, some were sitting on the railing at the top of the dam. I could see that they had very red faces. This suggested to me they were probably some type of buzzard. I also suspected nothing ominous about the presence of buzzards at the entrance to the park. From the far side of the dam I ascended 3200 feet. Soon, foggy mists, drizzle and wind enveloped the mountains. I used my trusty umbrella and it kept me dry. We had a cold night at the shelter. By 10:00 pm the drizzle had turned to snow. The following morning the ground was covered with about 1/2 inch and the temp was 26 degrees F. My feet were cold all night long. The following day the temp only got into the low 30's and the sun only peaked out briefly about mid-day. My second night in the Smokies I also had cold feet and the morning of my third day the temp was also 26 degrees F. That morning I visited the summit of Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the trail - 6643 feet. For my visit there I had the summit observation tower all to myself. This day remained cold, misty and windy, but not as cold as the previous two days. That night at the shelter we had more rain, some mixed with sleet. I slept warmer this night. The following morning there was still some snow on the ground, but after awhile the sun came out as I walked 24 miles to exit from the park. In the early afternoon I came to Davenport Gap and crossed the Pigeon River, the northern boundary of the park. During these wet and cold days the trail really emptied out as many hikers sought refuge in Gatlinburg. Near Davenport Gap I spent a night at the Standing Bear Farm hostel. The following morning we had a couple heavy thunderstorms, with thunder, lightning and some pea sized hail. For most of the day the trail was like a swamp. Yesterday I made my best exit from the shelter - waking at 6:05 and on-the-go at 6:45. The skies cleared and I had a pretty day for an 18 mile walk into Hot Springs, NC. I am taking my first true "zero" day here - no trail miles. I will be here two nights at the Sunnybank Inn - a charming Victorian Italianate house that the owner, Elmer Hall, has filled with book cases and books. This is my 18th day on the trail and I have covered 273 miles. My word for the Smokies was "challenging". Because - It is what it is. And - It's all good. You have to take what the trail gives. Some days it gives a lot. Some days it demands a lot. I have been keeping my spirits up. Physically, I'm holding up pretty well - no acute pain or soreness that would slow me down. Will spend the rest of the day resting and recharging. Early tomorrow morning I'll be back on the trail, heading north.