Date: 2007-05-27
From: Damascus, VA & Trail Dayz

To: Wapiti Shelter - Virginia
Miles today: 146.0
Weather: clear sky

"There's Magic Out There"                   Ranger Jan Reporting      With 3 states done and more than a month of hiking behind me, Virginia's opening section provides a pleasant introduction to the state. Some of the most enjoyable miles in Virginia's 550 (most of any AT state) come after Damascus. Easy miles, gorgeous views and the full spring floral display combine to reward hikers. Artiste, a 19 year old Virginia native, was my new hiking companion and enjoy we did. But the one thing we didn't anticipate was the "Magic".      "Trail Magic" provided by "Trail Angels" is one of those AT experiences greatly appreciated by the long distance travelers. Locals, past & present hikers, or just kindly strangers ply thru-hikers with all manner of food & drink, transportation, and sometimes even lodging. These surprise gestures often occur at points where the AT crosses a road. You might find a few jugs of water on a dry section of trail, maybe sodas and snacks, sometimes brownies or baked goods or just a ride into town to resupply. These acts of kindness take many forms. This week, though, Artiste and I got it all, the best of Virginia hiking and the best of AT trail magic.      Sunday night found us encamped at Thomas Knob Shelter, just below the summit of Mt. Rogers (highest point in Virginia). My "Luck" still ran strong that day as sunshine and cool breezes followed us past Buzzard Rock and on up the flanks of Mt. Rogers. Thomas Knob is one of those special shelters with all the right qualities. High on the shoulder of Mt. Rogers, it overlooks a picturesque valley and opposing ridge. A well constructed shelter with good water and privy round out its assets. I retired early, but awoke latter to spend a couple of hours mesmerized by the many stars and far off valley lights. Perched on a rock outcrop, I watched as the crescent moon slowly fell over Mt. Rogers. A couple of shooting stars raced across the dark sky. It was just another night I would never forget.      Leatherneck, a retired Marine from Arkansas, joined Artiste and myself as we crossed Grayson Highlands the next day. Rock gardens, panoramic views, and wild ponies made the day unique. That night we stayed at one of the newest AT shelters, Hurricane, and it was a very nice one at that. As I arrived, the bare back of a half-naked woman hiker momentarily startled me. I don't think trail magic was on her mind, but over the next few days we got plenty.      Tuesday we had a mission.....reach Partnership Shelter before the nearby visitors center closes. (sodas and snacks are available) Additionally, we could order a pizza with the free outside phone. (something of an AT tradition at this monster 2-story shelter with shower) We humped it over 20 tough miles to beat the deadline. Finally arriving, we instantly forgot about the pizza and sodas. A feast was in progress and we were the guests of honor. Trail angels Laces (06'), Pie (06'), and Stonewall (08') had covered the picnic table with eatables. As their grill poured forth its bounty, we gorged ourselves on beer, soda, chips & salsa, cookies, candy, watermelon, bananas, apples, brownies, and pie. It was magical.      Wednesday's culinary highlight was to be the Dairy Queen in Groseclose. The pastoral views, and easy hiking over a 25 plus mile day would be fueled by a large black cherry milkshake. It was closed, out of business. (As you might have surmised, the trail in Virginia intersects with more civilization.) No problem.....we were in high spirits after 3 magical days, so we just spent an hour assuaging our non-existent disappointment with pizza, chocolate milk, popcorn, bananas, lemonade, and Snickers from the Shell convenience store next door.      The magic was hardly over. Leaving Knot Maul Shelter, we proceeded up Chestnut Knob and the beginning of several miles of ridge walking, overlooking Burke's Garden. At the only road crossing, what do we find?... More trail magic. A grill, lawn chairs, coolers and much more were spread out over the intersection, but there wasn't a soul in sight. After a respectable moment of restraint, we began clearing the area....by consuming at will. The trail angels soon appeared (from a stroll) and were gratefull for our efforts, as they feared no one else would happen by to partake of their abundance. The best part of the day was yet to come, though. Artiste and I decided to investigate Davis Farm Campsite. It was incredible. A small patch of grass, halfway down the ridge, offered spectacular views into Burke's Garden. We cowboy camped (under the stars) enjoying not only a great sunset but an amazing morning. Burke's Garden is surrounded by ridges and a morning fog filled the valley like someone pouring milk into a bowl. While eating breakfast, we enjoyed the sense of flying over a clouded landscape.      Friday and Saturday we hiked up and over 3 or 4 more Brushy Mountains. ( A joke in Virginia, as it seems like every other mountain is a Brushy Mountain) There are actually 9 Brushy Mountains in Virginia. We had a little more trail magic near Bland, crossed I-77, visited the delightful and badly named Dismal Creek Falls, and of course finished out the week basking in the sunshine. All in all our introduction to Virginia couldn't have been better. The week also saw a few milestones. I passed the 500 and 600 mile marks, (25 % of the trail) and I broke the 25 mile (in one day) barrier for the first time. My "Luck" was still holding, but as I rolled into Pearisburg to start the next week, that luck was beginning to wear thin.