Date: 2004-07-19
From: Madison Hut

To: Gorham, NH (via Pinkham Notch)
Miles today: 7.7
Weather: fog

I had hoped that maybe my participation in last night's search-and-rescue party would be the work part of my work for stay, but no such luck. This morning I found myself peeling potatoes for an hour, and I did not actually start walking until about twenty minutes after Squish, Rockhound, and Paul.The first three miles of the day were, without a doubt, the hardest three miles I have done on the entire trail so far. They took me almost four hours, all said. The climb up and over Mt. Madison was all on fields of rocks between two and three feet in diameter, and these rocks were wet, too, so I had to be careful placing each foot. A slip here could very well mean serious injury on these rocks, so I am extra careful, which in turn means extra slow.Finally, as the trail descends below treeline, the path of nothing but rocks gives way to a path of mostly rocks, but also mud, roots, and dirt. The trail is descending steeply, too, so it's still treacherous, but not as treacherous as when it was all rock.After 3 miles I reach Osgood Tentsite. There's a trail intersection here, and I keep going straight. The trail is easy now, and I begin virtually racing down the gradual downhill, hoping to catch Squish and Rockhound. I'm so happy that I've reached an easy section of trail that I'm lost in my own world, and it's not until several minutes later that I look up and see not a white blaze, but a blue blaze!I'm torn as to whether or not to turn back. Normally I would turn around immediately, but I remember the incident from yesterday, where the A.T. was briefly marked with blue blazes, so I decide to keep going and see if there are any white blazes further along. There aren't, but I can hear a river now-- I decide to go to the river, and see if there's a suspension bridge. My guidebook says there's a suspension bridge on a river shortly after the tentsite, so if there is a bridge, then I'm on the A.T. If there isn't, then I'm not.I never reach the river. The trail intersects with another trail called the Great Gulf Trail, which according to the guidebook never intersects the A.T. I've walked the wrong way for over twenty minutes.So I turn around and walk back to the Osgood Tentsite, and see when I get there that the A.T. actually makes a sharp right turn. I can only tell this because there is a white blaze far down the trail; the signpost is so confusing that it's pretty much worthless.So here I am, having walked for a good four and a half hours, and having progressed three miles. I've lost all hope of catching Squish and Rockhound before Pinkham Notch, and so, despite the fact that I'm mentally fed up and ready to collapse, I trudge the final five miles to Pinkham Notch.I'm fed up with the constant fog, drizzle, and the White Mountains in general at this point. There's a lodge here at Pinkham Notch which costs about $50 a night, which is expensive, but at this point I don't care. I need a break, so I'm staying here.I'm sitting there feeling despondent when who should I see but Ballpark, the caretaker of Ethan Pond Campsite! He's got a few days off now, and we get to talking, and eventually he offers me a ride into Gorham. I hadn't planned on going into Gorham until I got to US2, about 22 more miles down the trail. But I need a break and there's an actual hostel in Gorham, so I accept Ballpark's offer gratefully.I'm glad I did, because at the hostel I meet Skyline and Sundance, who were half a day ahead of me but they also needed a break, so they came in from Pinkham Notch and are taking a zero day today.I spend the evening getting clean, then eating Chinese food, ice cream, and reading the paper. The last two days have just been killing-- I really needed this break.