Date: 2006-04-06
From: Cosby Gap Shelter

To: Standing Bear Farm Hostel
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

The trail giveth and the trail taketh away, often at one and the same time. Today she gaveth and gaveth and gaveth some more. One of those storied days with real trail magic. I woke with sun as I usually do and started packing up as the sky turned pink and colored the mountains. The shelter was not full last night so I knew I'd have the trail to myself. The Terminator said so long and left ahead of me. I buckled on my pack, looked at the view once more and started on my way. Centipede and Beer30 were still sleeping. I hoped I'd see them on the trail. All of us and the Michigan parents had had a nice evening until the firewood ran out. I was planning a short seven mile day to keep with the recovery program. I also planned on a hot breakfast along the way. I'd heard enought about the fire tower at Mt. Camerer, perfect spot. The now famous southbounders, Beamus and South Paw, had stayed there during one of the snow storms. Smokin Jeff said it was a beautiful spot. I took the half mile side trail out from Low Gap. Worth every step. The tower is a wooden octagon with a wooden walk all the way around the outside. It sits on a stone foundation. It's really a lookout instead of a tower. I droppped my pack inside and set up my stove outside on the rocks. I treated me and the Grease Monkey to a cup of tea and a bowl of wheat germ with cocoa and dry milk. We ate like kings. Glad little monkeys have small appetites. I took time to walk all the way around the tower and take it all in. I was leaving the Smokies and want to remember them. Very challenging and desrving respect.The trail down was not what I imagined. When I was up in the shelter in the cold and snow I pictured the trail ahead as a steep seven mile drop down a bare rocky ridge. It wasn't bare or very rocky. The trail I baled on with ridgerunner Jim had been much steeper. It's green and getting greener, flowers blooming, flys buzzing. A few patches of mud were the only sign left of the storm almost two weeks ago, now just a hell of a memory.   I was taking it slow and easy, stepping carefully and cushioning every stride with my poles. I never would have made this descent in the storm. The side trail was the correct decision. But I was feeling strong and enjoyed the walk. My pack was riding perfectly. When packed, strapped and balanced correctly you hardly notice it's there. It should feel ike a part of you, and it did. My goal had been the seven mile hike to Daveport Gap Shelter but I was feeling great. I got there before noon and didn't want to stop. I was going to leave a note in the register for Centipede and Beer30, but the register was missing. No reason not to do the three more miles back to Standing Bear, the beginning and the end. The AT exits the Great Smokey Mountain National Park with a wimper. I'd entered the park with much ceremony at the 480 foot Fontana Dam. I exited the park officially after crossing a dirt road. Suddenly it's literally all behind you. When I crossed the road there was a group of 20 or more people climbing on the trail on the other side. From the looks of their gear, footwear and clothing I assumed they were Boy Scouts. It was raining and they all had hoods on. Without any planned effort on my part I've become a judgmental trail snob. You know a thru hiker when you see one and these weren't them. One of them yelled, "Hiker" and a bunch let me pass. I walked along behind the four at the front for a while. I turned to the guy behind me,assuming he was the leader, and asked if they were scouts. He told me no, they were just a bunch of guys out on a hike. I saw that none of them were boys and hope he took it as a compliment. You don't pay much attention to being a dirty trail dog until you contrast with others. The four guys in front let me pass as they looked me up and down in what's left of my shorts,black polypro bottoms, ratty gaitors, two different colored shirts. To anyone besides another thru hiker I look like a bearded scarecrow. Even at a leisurely pace to keep my injury at bay, I blew right past these guys. It was an interesting encounter. I've only been out a month but things change quickly when you hike for a living. I whooped long and loud when I crossed the stream and saw the painted rock announcing Standing Bear Farm. I hauled ass up the road, saw the barn as I rounded the bend and heart Spit announcing me with his hiker bark. I walked into the drive and it felt like home. I waved to Curtis and, even though I was a day early he said he knew I'd be in today.Strange how quickly you become a part of something. As soon as I walked into the place I felt like washing and folding towels for guests, sweeping and changing sheets. Curtis was glad to see me and mourning the breakup of our little family since Jeff and Sprocket left. I felt the same.I immediately went to the kitchen and started bantering with hikers with more enthusiasm than I've had in weeks. I finally felt like one of them.Big surprise when Curtis told me Miss Janet had called for me today. When I finally reached her she said she was thinking of me and had to check up on me. She is a trail goddess. I gave her my successful report and asked if she'd seen any folks I know. I figured they'd be pretty close to Irwin by now and be holed up in her hostel. She had news on Bushwacker. He's sick and Little Brother and No Worrices, all still together, helped him off trail yesterday. She picked him up and said he was crying when he had to leave trail and the guys behind. I immediately called him at the Irwin Super 8. Damn good to talk. He sounded sick as a dog and really discouraged. Again he was considering going home. His story is so similar to mine that I had to encourage him. I told him no way he was leaving the trail because of a stomach virus. No way. I said I'd rehike the section with him the section of the Smokies he missed. I told him he had to make email contact with the rest of the crew. I'll be in Hot Springs four days from now on my birthday. I want him and the rest there to celebrate.   It's a different world out here. Miss Janet, Curtis, Ridgerunner Jim, Little Brother, No Worries, Sparrow Hawk, we help each other out.Nice campfire tonight. Only a few people. Fun, not rowdy. Terminator, a guy from Norway who works for GE and has an accent like the governor of California, was renamed Waldo for his resemblance to a certain traveling childrens book character. Much better fit.Sleep now.