Date: 2016-03-12
From: Wayah Bald Shelter

To: Nantahala Outdoor Center
Miles today: 16.5

Man did I sleep great last night. I really didn't wake up at all during the night, which is a first for me, and when I finally awoke rather abruptly, it was 7 o'clock, the sun was out, and people were already brushing their teeth! I was also amazed at the weather. They had been calling for rain for days, so I was surprised to see sunlight streaming into the shelter on a perfect partly cloudy day. The group of hikers I had spent the night with have a hilarious dynamic. If they all stick together I'm sure they'll all make it, because they seem really tight and fun. Makes me miss having a couple buddies to go out every day with, but frankly I'm enjoying improvising and setting my own pace for everything. Despite not being the first up, I was the first out from the shelter. I don't mess around in the mornings, I Spose. The hiking was as it had been, gentle to steep climbs and descents around and up decent sized mountains. I passed a group of four hikers I was amazed to see again: I had passed them last night at silers bald and was very skeptical when they said they were planning to make it to the next shelter. I also passed two hikers who, from their short shorts and big thighs, had to be former thru hikers doing a section. They had a tiny shiba dog named Katana. The highlight of the day was Wesser Bald, the last big climb before the long descent into the Nantahala Outdoor Center. The climb was a little tougher than normal, but only 1.5 miles. And at the top was an observation tower that I'd heard quite a bit about. I brought my whole pack up. Wow. The view is probably the greatest I've had in my life: endless ridges of wooded mountaintops in every direction, and the valley of Franklin below me. I could definitely pick out Standing Indian Mountain behind me, and certainly a few ranges of the Smokies (though I'm not sure what's what). I ate some lunch and had a long FaceTime session with Ali before heading out. Ali is leaving on a cruise this weekend, so I'll be without communication from her for the next week. A very nice local day hiker couple came up just as I was packing up and asked me questions about my trip and wished me luck. The trail is known for dropping from Wesser Bald very steeply and unforgivingly down to the NOC, but the most remarkable parts for me were when the trail insisted on climbing back up a ridge and spitting us back out under the baking sun for no reason. Seriously, if this is one of the most steep parts of the trail, why make things worse? I only understood one of these climbs, which put me on top of a cliff called the Jumpoff looking out into the valley. It was neat. The trail was steep, but with the exception of a few short sections, was not nearly as bad as the descents off of Camels Hump, Mansfield or a number of other northern VT mountains. It was just long. Eventually, the NOC hove into sight. It is a whole complex of wooden buildings, but I first had to check in at the General Store. I picked up my room key, and soon went back in and perused their beer selection. I chose an Arrogant Bastard Ale and was surprised when the cashier offered to open it for me. I asked whether drinking outside was allowed and she looked confused that I even asked. I grinned and took my beer out and drank it in the sun, looking down into the Nantahala River. I decided to go check out my room, but was waylaid by the trail magic of burgers on the other side of the river. The room is more Hostel-like than I expected, just a couple of twin bunk beds and a heat/cool system with a big set of showers and toilets a short walk away in another building. I sat around for a long time massaging my feet before finally deciding to take a shower. I then brought my laundry down to the washers (back at the general store) before realizing they had no detergent. The outfitter had closed but I went up and knocked on the door and soon enough had some detergent to do the wash, as well as some for the man who traded me two bucks in quarters at the machines. I went in and had some dinner at the restaurant and ways joined by another hiker who is coming off of two zeroes here for his sprained ankle. I noted that the sprawling outdoor bbq restaurant hadn't even opened yet, and my companion said that this place is still in off-season and won't really get going til May, when huge rafting groups come through. All afternoon, I had watched kayakers play in the rapids and holes next to the outfitter, but now they were gone. I picked up my laundry and headed back to my room for the night.