morvasaaty/AppalachianTrail-LD-Hikers-Blogs-and-Weather-20-years huggingface dataset:
Date: 2004-08-07
From: Garfield Ridge Campsite

To: AMC-Zealand Falls (hut)
Miles today: 9.7

I looked out my tent this morning and could only see grey mist. That was enough reason to roll over and go back to sleep. Eventually WW yelled over that it was time to get moving. We opted to skip breakfast and head to the Galehead Hut and mooch a cup of coffee. We finally got on the trail about 9AM and slowly picked our way to the hut. The sun slowly burned off most of the fog but the skies looked threatening on and off all day. Once at the hut I made a big breakfast and had some of their coffee. We were then better prepared to start the long hard climb up Twin Mountain. I don't remember the last time I felt so cold. I don't know if it is because of the exertion or because I have such little body fat left but it is tough to keep warm. I always loved the cool weather. Today the temps were in the 40's and I was shivering. We stopped briefly to enjoy the views - between bouts of fog and light rain. We somehow lucked out and never got more than a drizzle though we hiked through areas that had received a heavy rain. After Climbing Mt Guyot the trail leveled off and we were able to do more than a mile per hour for a short stretch. Then came the steep descent to Zealand Falls. Most times when you think of a hiking trail you picture a three or four foot wide dirt path with a few rocks thrown in. That is not the case here in the Whites. The trail is composed of large irregular shaped rocks randomly thrown together. On either side there my be trees with a thin layer of top soil just barely covering the rocks. You realize how little soil there is when you come across a toppled tree. The tree lifts about three inches of soil when it falls - exposing the same rocks we are hiking on. It is a tough environment for life to survive. And for thru-hikers to survive too. Anyway, we arrived at the Zealand Falls AMC Hut and checked in with the Croo. They agreed to a work for stay for WW and me. AMC Huts are like very remote motels - where no vehicles can go. Everything is either carried in on someones back or is flown in by helicopter. The paying guests get a bunk bed with blankets (no linen), breakfast, and dinner. This hut actually has electric - generated by water from the nearby stream. There are toilets but no showers. Food is prepared and served by the Croo who also do little skits to entertain the guests. It is an interesting setup. They are also very tolerant of thru-hikers and are generally very helpful. The guests were very interested in hearing about our hikes and seemed to be enjoying their stay. We will be doing our work in the morning after breakfast. It is now lights-out time and time for sleep. Work for stay hikers sleep on the tables or benches. I'm dry and warm and my belly is full. Life is good here on the trail. Goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-08
From: AMC-Zealand Falls (hut)

To: Crawford Notch (US 302)
Miles today: 7.7
Weather: fog

I was awake early as the cook was busy preparing breakfast in the kitchen. The bed I made out of the benches was surprisingly comfy. I could see the moon and once in a while a star or two through the window next to my "bed". During the night it rained but the morning promised a beautiful day. After the guests were fed and most had left we set about our work for stay chores. WW swept all the floors while I pulled all the blankets off the bunks. I took them outside to shake them off and fold them. Each bunk has three blankets and it seemed like there were a thousand bunks. The whole process took maybe an hour - which I feel was a good deal for us. We had a roof over our head for the night and were fed well. Anyway, we packed our gear and headed down the trail. The sky was a deep blue with large pillowy white clouds. The trail for most of the hike followed an old railroad bed. Very easy grade with few rocks - a nice but rare change of pace. I stopped in at the Ethan Pond Campsite because I know the caretaker there. He is "Ballpahk" who I had met during my '02 hike. I was in luck as he didn't recognize me. I pulled off prank after prank and I really got him going. He couldn't understand how this stranger knew so much about him and his hiking friends. I also handed him a chocolate bar and said that a beautiful blonde from the last hut asked me to bring it to him. I finally gave him my real trail name and we had a big laugh. He didn't recognize me because I was a lot thinner last time he met me and I didn't have this massive beard. We chatted for a while. WW and I finally finished the last three miles and I retrieved two of the soda's I'd stached last week, We then hitched a ride to the AMC Highland Center. We got a bunk, ate a sandwhich, and retrieved our food drop. After some calls and a shower we made plans for tomorrow. It will be a tough day so I better get some rest. Goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-09
From: Crawford Notch (US 302)

To: AMC (Lakes of the Clouds Hut)
Miles today: 11.2
Weather: scattered clouds

BearBag Hanger and I got a ride to the trailhead within minutes of sticking out our thumbs. WW was stuck at the lodge arranging to have new boots mailed to him. His are falling apart - and they were just purchased in Kent. The plan was for BBH and I to start hiking and I would stop and dry out my still wet tent when I got to Webster Cliffs. By the time WW got there all my gear was dry so we took off to try to catch BBH. The weather was perfect - cool and very breezy. With lots of sun and a few puffy clouds. Fantastic views from the cliffs, Mt Webster, and Mt Jackson. We stopped at the Mizpah Hut and had a few bowls of hot soup and hot chocolate. After Mt Clinton (aka Mt Pierce) we remained above treeline. And that pretty much meant that the enjoyable breeze was now about gale force. It was strong enough to blow you off the path and would catch your pack and spin you around. I felt like a drunken sailor - swaying from side to side. But the skies were pure blue and the views were at their best. Not even a haze over Mt Washington. We climbed to over 5000 feet and reached the Lakes of the Clouds Hut about 4:30. The dungeon was full (with section hikers) but the croo offered us a work for stay. This was by far a better deal - we sleep inside where it is warm and we get a good meal or two. The dungeon looked cold and well, kind of like a dungeon. The croo members were very pleasant and helpful. WW and I helped clean tables and set up for dinner. Over 90 guests eating at the same time - it is a busy place. It is cold and windy outside but very comfy in here. We had a beautiful sunset and a night with lots of stars. I am on a bed made from two benches and I have a wall of windows to look out. Mountains and lights from the valley 4000 feet below. Mt Washington standing guard above us - awaiting our arrival tomorrow morning. With any luck the weather will remain nice and the cog train tourists will get their money's worth tomorrow. It will be another tough day so I best get some sleep. Goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-10
From: AMC (Lakes of the Clouds Hut)

To: USFS Osgood Tentsite
Miles today: 10.0
Weather: broken clouds

We were up and packed early. WW, BBH, and I took off as soon as we finished helping the croo set up for breakfast. Earlier Mt Washington was cloudy - the only cloud in the sky was right over it. It is big and high enough to make its own clouds. Anyway, by the time we started hiking (around 7AM) there were no clouds to be seen. The wind from yesterday (67 mph gust) had died down and the temps were perfect for hiking. We climbed the rocky trail to the summit and enjoyed the perfect weather and spectacular views. We all made some phone calls and had a nice breakfast at the snack shop. I was in the middle of my meal when the first cog train pulled in. I got a laugh when I watched some backpackers arrive by train and by car - they took turns climbing about twenty feet to have their picture (with backpacks on) taken next to the Mt Washington summit sign. I wonder if they will boast of bagging another 6000 footer. I think some of them were actually going to hike down from there. They are in for a surprise as I think it would be easier on their joints to hike up instead. The summit was getting crowded so I loaded up and headed out. The trail for the rest of the day was nothing but a boulder field. It took a lot of care to not be injured in this section. The going was very slow and was exhausting. I waited near the cog tracks but no trains came by. A little later as I was a little further from the tracks I spotted the smoke coming up the mountain. I was a little far from the train but rumor is that I mooned it anyway. And it is also rumored that it was captured on film. I don't think that shot will get posted... The weather was starting to change - clouds and wind picking up. We hiked through beautiful areas on the toughest trails you will find. After a stop for water and a few bowls of soup at the Madison Spring Hut we climbed steeply up Mt Madison. Steep and rocky and windy. As you are stepping from rock to rock the wind would change your landing point. The hiking poles earned their keep today. Most of my hiking buddy's took spills and have new scars to prove how tough today was. I didn't fall because I negotiated the rocks like a little old lady (read that "vertically challenged mature female). Our plan was to try to make Pinkham Notch today. We couldn't do it. We opted to set up our tents and call it a day after only ten miles. We are pretty much exhausted and in need of a good nights sleep. So, Goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-12
From: Pinkham Notch Camp

To: Carter Gap Hut
Miles today: 6.0

Late last night Hammock Hanger arrived at the camp. She will be hiking with us after we get to Imp Campsite or Gorham. The plan was for BBH, WW, and I to get an early start and hike 13 miles to Imp. We were doing ok until we arrived at the Hut. At that point the skies opened up. The trail looked like a river and the terrain in this area is very rough. After a long discussion we decided to get a bunk and spend the night. Hammock Hanger is expecting us at Imp but we had discussed the possibility of us staying here if the weather turned bad. We will meet her in Gorham tomorrow if the weather gods cooperate and we have the legs for a fifteen mile day. The weather was lousy from the start today - no rain early on but almost zero visibility. The rocks we were climbing were wet and sometimes slick. There was one spot where you climbed up the face of rock and there was nothing to hold on to and no foot holds whatsoever. If you slipped at that point there was nothing to stop you from sliding or rolling off the cliff. I never thought of hiking as a dangerous activity but here your life sometimes depends on the traction between your boots and wet rock. I can't say that I enjoyed that feeling - and that is part of the reason we are staying the night at this hut. Tomorrow will bring more rock scrambles and I am hoping the weather clears a bit. I plan to take few chances over the next few weeks. There just seems to be too many opportunities for serious injury out here. My fellow hikers have had many falls lately and look a bit bruised. I have been lucky and have remained on my feet in spite of many close calls. I am looking forward to the day when I hike on dirt again - even if it is mud. At least mud provides a soft landing. Anyway, since we arrived here at the hut about 2PM we had time to take it easy. I treated the caretaker to a cup of Starbucks and he brought out some real cream - something he must have packed in himself. We chatted and had a nice afternoon. Many other thru-hikers have taken refuge here - many of them on a work for stay basis. I paid for my bunk and left the WFS to those who need it more. Besides, I can go to bed now. They are in the kitchen cleaning out the oven. It is still raining and the forecast calls for more of the same. I would really like to get some serious hiking done so pray for some decent weather. I hope those back home are doing ok with the hurricane approaching. Goodnight, Lwop
Date: 2004-08-13
From: Carter Gap Hut

To: US2 (Gorham, NH)
Miles today: 15.2
Weather: light intensity drizzle

Well, the weather gods didn't exactly smile down at us today. It was more like them taking a leak our way. When we got up you could see about 10 feet and it never got much better. We headed out early with the hope of making it to Gorham. 15 miles in this terrain is a tough day and we knew we would need a lot of daylight to make it. Though it wasn't raining when we first set out we were soaked within minutes. Every time you brushed against a shrub you received a drenching. On top of that the day started out with a 1500 foot climb. The first five miles took four hours. That is slow going. About the time we reached Imp Campsite the skies opened up. Water was flowing along the trail and some of the streams were overflowing. One of the bog bridges was under a foot of water. I had to climb down a cliff with water flowing down it. It was like climbing down a waterfall. We had a number of stream crossings where all the rocks were under water. We had been advised there was a flood warning today. They were right about that. I'm told all this rain is from the remnants of tropical storm Bonnie. I guess it could have been worse. By the end of the day there was water squishing between my toes as I walked. The boots do get heavy when they are full of water. We finally made it to US2 and were fortunate to get a ride into town. The wife of another thru-hiker (named Fireball) picked up four dirty, wet hikers and delivered us to the Barn. I showered, did laundry, and ate a ton of food. Tomorrow will be a zero - lots to do in town. I am tired. Goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-14
From: US2 (Gorham, NH)

To: Gorham, NH.
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: broken clouds

Well, today was a zero day - so the skies were blue, the sun was out, and there were beautiful views to be seen. Not the best timing on my part. BearBag Hanger, Wicomico Walker, and I all have colds. We were all feeling lousy all day and have been taking naps in between getting our chores done. BBH arrived here this morning. He and a few others were unable to make it across the flood stage stream that I was barely able to cross. I knew the water was rising fast and I would not have made it had I been just a little bit slower. Higher up the mountain there was a lot of water - all looking for a way off the mountain. When the bog bridges are a foot underwater you know that there will be trouble as you climb off the mountain. I read in todays paper that Gorham received 2.94 inches of rain yesterday. Most of that went into my boots which are still not dry. The weather forecast is for more heavy rain - the remnants of Hurricane Charley. It should hit here early tomorrow. With us not feeling well and the weather not looking good we may spend the day in a motel somewhere in town. I guess a little rest won't hurt any although I am getting anxious to reach the end of the hike. Gorham is a nice place to chill for a while. I've met some super friendly folks here. I managed to get a lot done today and am fully resupplied with five days food. I received some nice care packages at the post office today along with some nice letters and cards. I don't know if I mentioned it yesterday but I am now below the 300 mile mark. It sounds funny thinking of a 300 mile walk as being short. I have heard so many nice things about the trail in Maine I can't wait to see it myself. I do hope they know how to blaze a trail. That would be a nice change of pace after hiking in the Whites. The maintainers here must get their kicks out of hearing about thru-hikers getting lost or following the wrong trail. It has been the worst case of shoddy trail work I witnessed - and I have about 3500 miles of backpacking experience. But then again, thru-hikers represent only a small portion of the hikers in this area and certainly aren't the bread and butter of the $AMC$. I have been catching reports of the devastation from Hurricane Charley down in Florida. I have many friends in the FTA who may have been in its path. I wish I could be there to help out. I have seen first hand what such a storm can do and it isn't a pretty sight. And I know that the Florida Trail will be in sore need of some maintainance when I get home. But for now I'm "stuck" here in Gorham NH eating, sleeping, and chilling out. Goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-15
From: Gorham, NH.

To: Gorham,NH.
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: fog

The weather did get better today but my cold didn't and WW seems to have some kind of flu. BBH also has a cold. So we moved out of the Barn and got a couple of rooms at a motel. We were able to get some rest and not have to wait in line to use a bathroom. I received an email that Stumpknocker was in town and was just trying to figure how to find him when I noticed his truck in the parking lot. He is only a few rooms away. We had a nice reunion and chatted for a while. He will be hiking out tomorrow and I hope we will too. Fortunately we will both be heading in opposite directions as there probably isn't a trail wide enough to fit both of us. It made my day to see him again and I wish him the best on his SOBO hike. I feel ready to head out tomorrow but I think WW may need another day of rest. I will stick around till he is ready to hike. BBH and HH may hike half a day tomorrow and we could probably catch up in a few days. Two full days in town and I am really getting antsy to hit the trail again. I took some cold medication and am getting sleepy. I hope to have some trail reports soon. goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-16
From: Gorham,NH.

To: Gorham, NH.
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

The decision was made early today to take another zero day. WW has not been able to eat and is not ready to hit the trail. And to quote Tom Cruise "you don't leave your wingman". So we had a very restful day doing a lot of nothing. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner were my most strenuous activities for the day. I did drop Stumpknocker off at the trailhead so he could continue his SOBO hike. I also waterproofed my boots which is really a waste of time. Three days without hiking... I am tired of being in town. I feel the need for green - have to get out into the woods again. The plan is for an early start tomorrow. WW says he is anxious to get going so we will see what tomorrow brings. I've been told that the next hundred miles is the toughest of the AT. That sounds good to me. but not until I get a good nights sleep. Goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-17
From: Gorham, NH.

To: Gentian Pond Shelter
Miles today: 11.8
Weather: scattered clouds

Yea! Finally back on the trail! We hitched a ride to the trail and were dropped off on Hogan Road. I slacked back the mile to US2 and then hiked it again. I am not giving up on being a purist with less than 300 miles to go - so I didn't miss any blazes. The skies were cloudy early this morning but cleared nicely during the day. Even the humidity, which was brutal early on, became tolerable. The views and the forests were just beautiful today. There was a subtle but noticable change in the appearance of the woods. They just look different up here. I am expecting to see moose at any time - lots of prints and scat. They do produce a lot of scat and they seem to enjoy depositing it on the AT for us thru-hikers to walk through. I'll bet they were trained by the AMC. I wonder if they charge them a scat fee... Anyway,it was good to be hiking again. My cold didn't hold me back and after a few miles my legs were feeling the need for speed. I stayed back though because WW is not at 100 percent. He made out ok and seemed to be doing better as the day progressed. I stopped at Wocket Ledge and enjoyed a very impressive view of Mt Washington and many of the other peaks we had hiked. It is always amazing when you get to see such impressive mountains and you know you had hiked over each of them. Expecially when they look as massive as Mt Washington. We then passed a few lakes and that is where I noticed a lot of the moose scat. I know the moose don't follow the AT because it is so rarely maintained that they would find it easier to bushwack elsewhere. But for some strange reason there was lots of scat on the trail. Hammock Hanger, WW, and I set up inside the shelter along with a few others. It is a nice, large shelter with an upper bunk. It even has a snow shovel for anyone crazy enough to come out here in the winter. The shelter also has one of the best views. Anyway, tomorrow I should be entering the state of Maine. I can't wait. It is getting chilly so I am going to climb down into my sleeping bag. Goodnight,Lwop
Date: 2004-08-18
From: Gentian Pond Shelter

To: Full Goose Shelter
Miles today: 9.6
Weather: few clouds

9.6 miles may sound like an easy day but that wasn't the case today. While we did take a few nice breaks (including a strip down to the underwear sunbathing on the rocks break) the whole day was either straight up or straight down. There were places where we had to step down about six feet. We had to hang from anything we could get our hands on and lower ourselves and pray our feet landed on something solid. It was tough going but being with a group made it more fun. We had about seven thru-hikers who more or less stayed together all day. About 1:00 we passed a major milestone in our hike. We crossed the New Hampshire / Maine border. That means 13 states completed and only one to go. Early tomorrow somewhere in the Mahoosuc Notch we will pass the 1900 mile mark. 1900 miles makes for a very long walk. I will tell you that such a trip is not for everybody. And the "trails" we have been on lately are not really trails at all. They are rock scrambles. Trust me, this is no walk in the woods. If Bill Bryson started his hike here he wouldn't have made it through the first day. Anyway, I spent much of the day hiking with Hammock Hanger. We've known each other for years and have hiked with each other down in Florida. It was an enjoyable day filled with a lot of conversation. We didn't make it to the shelter until after 7:00PM. That gave us a moving average of about one mile per hour. And we are tired! I am having a hard time finding the strength to do my journal. I am filthy and cold and tired. I slipped on one rock and went sliding on my butt right past Hammock Hanger. It wasn't bad at first going down feet first but my butt was moving faster than my feet and I was starting to slide down the mountain ass first. A little too exciting for me. I caught hold of a rock and there was no damage done. Somewhere during the day I took a good chunk of skin off my right knee. So a little blood was shed today. Right now I am on top of my sleeping bag in the shelter. It is getting down right cold out. It was a great day of hiking today - some spectacular views and beautiful woods. And I shared the day with some great company. It doesn't get much better than this. Goodnight,Lwop