Date: 2010-02-28
From: Yellow Creek Gap

To: Fontana Dam
Miles today: 8.8
Weather: overcast clouds

Arriving at one point is the starting point to another.                                  - John DeweyFahmah and I were ready to complete this final leg to Fontana Dam. It was snowing, and there was some question as to whether we would make it up the small road to Yellow Creek Gap, but Jeff dropped us off without incident.We started off in the snow and wind. But today my heart felt lighter. I had only a fanny pack and knew I'd be back in a warm room that night. It seemed like today's hike should be easier, lower elevation and more downhill than up.We ran into fewer blowdowns, and those that we did find were easier to negotiate than those in past days. The snow began to accumulate, covering the leaves on the trail. I hurried on, hoping to finish before the snow became an issue.In a much shorter time than I expected, we crossed Highway 28 and reached the marina. Using the phone on the wall of the restroom building, Fahmah called Jeff to let him know of our progress. We continued on and stopped in to see the Fontana Dam Shelter, also known as the Fontana Hilton. It IS a particularly nice shelter, but the crowning glory is a heated restroom just steps away. I got to meet Knee Deep who had been hiking with Fahmah since before the NOC. They made arrangements to hike into the Smokies the next day. While I hadn't made a final decision, I was leaning against going on at this time myself. From the shelter we walked to the dam itself for a photo op and the pickup by Jeff. I don't know about Fahmah, but I completed today's hike at a much better pace than I've managed on any previous day on this trip.When we got back to Hike Inn, we found that Nancy was on the phone with a couple of hikers who had gone into the park a week before. They had just arrived at Gatlinburg, taking twice as long they normally would. One had frostbite, and they both had tales of deep, deep drifts and losing the trail. That settled it for me.My going into the park would not pass my "newspaper test" any longer. This is where I imagine the write-up if anything goes wrong. "This relatively inexperienced hiker went into the Smokies even though she knew the trailconditions were very bad, that her equipment, acceptable for "normal" conditions were marginal for the current conditions, that easy bailout points were nonexistant, and that any rescue would be difficult and dangerous, both for her and any would-be rescuers. Knowing that her own physcial conditioning was probably not up to the challenge, this idiot continued on against all rational advice......" That's not the way I want to be remembered. Any venture has risks, but there is risky and then there's stupid.I decided to go back to Robbinsville, rest on my laurels for a moment, and to think.Rest on my laurels because reaching Fontana Dam represented a subgoal. On one level Fontana Dam is no different than any other stretch of the Trail - just another place to walk past on the way to Maine. But on a different level it does have significance.Fontana Dam marks the beginning (or end, if one is a southbounder) to Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The elevation in the park is higher than anything I've done on this trip. The park contains the highest point on the Appalachian Trail. It is more isolated than the miles south of here. Here one should carefully check one's gear and resupply for the stretch ahead.Fontana Dam, built by the TVA, marks the end of one map and the beginning of another. The old map, creased, torn and stained, is ready to be retired to adorn someone's wall. Literally and figuratively, its elevation profile represents highs and lows on this journey and memories gained. The new map, ready to go into my rain pants pocket, is clean and crisp. Its elevation profile and topo maps represent only fresh potential, a new world.A new starting point.