Date: 2003-08-27
From: Lake of the Clouds Hut, The Dungeon

To: Pinkham Notch
Miles today: 14.8
Weather: broken clouds

Woke to the most hellacious weather. The wind was whipping by our open steel dungeon door. I couldn't see a thing because we were completely clouded in. People moving around upstairs made it so there was no chance of going back to sleep. I packed up and said goodbye to the 4 hikers upstairs. They warned me of impending doom, and told me not to try and go out in the storm. They all have to stay and clean up after breakfast. Then they get to eat the leftovers while the decedent overindulgent toupee-wearing sellouts watch from afar. I couldn't take it anymore and it would take a little more than a windy day to keep me there one minute more. I had gone to the top of Washington yesterday, but I had come back to the hut. So I had to climb it again. What a difference a day makes. Yesterday it was clear and calm, and today you can¢t see 10 feet. The wind is gusting at 78 mph. As I climbed higher, it kept getting worse. Rain hurts at 78 mph and I was blown over several times. It was hopping from rock to rock the whole way up. At the top, there are a bunch of weather towers. Washington boasts the "the world¢s worst weather" and today they were out to prove it. There is also a gift shop and a small eatery. The eatery doesn't open until 11, so I was now too early. I have to work on my timing. There is a hiker room in the basement with a table and chairs. Bug Bite came in while I planned my day. She is going down the bad weather trail, but not because of the weather. She thru-hiked last year and is out just for fun this year. I, on the other hand, have to stick to the white blazes. It makes a difference of 14.8 miles compare to 4. I spoke to the game warden at the info desk. She was just filled with gloom. All she could talk about was the 150 people who died on the mountain. None of this was reassuring at all. However, when I looked at the list of 150 people who died, they date back to 1700s.   The first one that I read died in a plane crash, another from a heart attack.   Many were from trying to ski. Hardly any were from hiking. I put on two layers top and bottom plus raingear from head to toe. As soon as I headed out, a big gust pushed me down. I wondered how I would ever be able to get anywhere. There is a road that travels to the top plus there is a train. I had to cross the tracks and noticed a train coming so I waited. As I waited, the tour guide had to point out the crazy thru-hiker and everybody stared as it went by at 5 mph. There is a tradition that the thru-hikers are supposed to moon the train and the conductor throws small pieces of coal at us. I spared them since I was being pelted by rain. I didn't think anyone else would be out there at all. After about a mile, I descended under the clouds. The wind was better, but still brutal on the ridge. There were yuppies hiking that have to go from hut to hut. Gucci hiking boots don't have much traction on wet rocks. They only have to hike about 8 miles but I bet they were worried. The sky got clearer and clearer as the day went by. Coming down Mt Jefferson and Madison were extremely hard. I had to put my hiking poles away so I could scramble on the rocks. I was on all fours for much of the time. Sometimes the wind would gust and it was everything I could do to hold on. I listened to the radio and they said it was a wonderful morning. Meanwhile, I'm in the storm that made the SS Minnow lost. I finally got below the tree line. As soon as I did, it changed into perfect weather. Calm and about 80 degrees. I had to strip off all the clothes I was wearing. It was still steep and my knees are feeling the constant jumping down I had to do all day. Around 5 pm, I found a great stream to take a badly needed bath and rinsed out my hiking clothes. I finally got to Pinkham Notch visitors¢ center. There were hordes of yuppie tourists and I was too late for the grill.   Really have to work on that timing. I still got to talk to Jess on the phone. It has been awhile and I needed to hear her voice. I have been missing her more than ever lately. When I am done, I am going to spend a straight week by her side. At 7:30, I had to find a place to camp before it got dark. I hiked a little further and met a thru-hiker named Starbuck.   He invited me to camp with him and I was dead tired so I accepted. He told me that Bug Bite was tented very close. I snuck over, rustled some bushes and gave my best bear-like growl. All she said was, "You're such a loser." I am trying to finish the Whites tomorrow. It means a huge day over a real hard section called the Wildcats. I have enough food for another day but not much more at all. I didn't eat dinner tonight and my stomach is growling. I have lost more weight through the Whites. I will try to make up for it when I get to Gorham. I still feel pretty good for the hard miles I'm doing. Peace,Dutch