Date: 2004-05-16
From: Silars Bald Shelter in Smoky's

To: Ice Water Springs Shelter
Miles today: 20.3
Weather: broken clouds

Today was spectacular and full of texture. Wind, fog and sun led the day, and then followed by rain, sleet and sun again! The trail went over the highest mountain on the entire A.T. - Clingman's Dome. It stands right at the halfway point in The Smoky's at 6648 feet. As high as it is the climb really isn't a difficult one due to the fact that since entering the Park, we've been climbing. It seems the Smoky's mountain peaks all rise out of a very high ridge line. So the ascents aren't very formidable. The climbed led me into alpine terrain where the dominant impression was the sweet smelling aroma of wet spruce. Oh, how I love that evergreen scent. Joining them were short needle pines and possibly some balsam fir. But the fog lay heavy on the mountain and no views could be found until the other side of the mountain. As the sun came out and the spruce edged in tighter, I thought many times of the forests that Frodo and Sam traveled through.At one point the spruce became so thick, I couldn't help thinking of a fairy tale enchanted forest with Christmas trees everywhere. It was quite magical! The Appalachian Trail though turned into the Appalachian Trench. As much as a foot or more deep at points and no wider than a hiking boot. When the rain began, again, the Appalachian Trench transformed into the Appalachian River.By early afternoon I reached the heavily traveled tourist area of Newfound Gap. Shamelessly I admit to wanting to try my hand at ¢ yogi-ing¢ - That's a term used out here for getting free food from the car driving visitors¢¦you folks. No sooner did I have my pack off, when a young couple ask me if I was a Thru-hiker and if there was anything I might want?? Naturally, I said, ¢I'd love a sandwich!¢ Without missing a beat the man turned, a particularly more difficult move since Holly was riding on his shoulders. Holly said she was his backpack today. Any who, Otter returned from the car with a huge black angus roast beef sandwich with saut©ed onions and honey mustard. WOW, I was stunned! Otter Thru-hiked in 1995 and still likes to return the generosity he received.Some of my other Thru-hikers by now had joined me and we, in someway, became a most interesting visual entertainment for the parking lot crowd. Carp, as in the fish, is another hiker out here with a similar pace as me started eyeing my huge score of a sandwich. Before he put any more puppy in his eyes, I ask if he'd like a hunk? Duh!? He later reciprocated with a Little Debbie Oatmeal Cookie pie dessert in gratitude that he scored. Sweet! Wow, it was practically Thanksgiving in May! My hunger is starting to get just a little more aggressive. This is day 17 and I can feel the stomach is not fully happy about the adventure. With no weight scale around, I can only guess that I've lost 15 pounds already.The legs are becoming super strong, but the stomach likes to remind us all, that unless its demands are met, we aren't going to be going anywhere!Tomorrow may be a 20.3-mile day, followed by a short 8. Why? Well, at the bottom of that short 8, is the end of the Smoky Mountains and a place called Mountain Momma's¢¦who serves GIGANTIC cheeseburgers! Can you say, Yea baby?! I'll take two please¢¦one for breakfast naturally.Good Night All!