morvasaaty/AppalachianTrail-LD-Hikers-Blogs-and-Weather-20-years huggingface dataset:
Date: 2014-07-20
From: Mile 1756.9 tent site

To: Hexacuba Shelter
Miles today: 14.9
Weather: overcast clouds

I wake up to another beautiful New Hampshire day. It feels almost surreal. Both MA and VT greeted my arrival with a couple days of thunderstorms. NH has been most gracious. I best not be questioning my good fortune. Looking at AWOL's guide, Holts Ledge appears to be a very steep climb. It's not so bad. I've tried to understand the math ratios of showing the trail profiles on 20 mile pages of the guide. I've given up. It's enough to know that the reality is often not as steep as it seems in the guide. And it goes both ways too. Still, I would never complain about AWOLs guide. I think it's done very well. From the ledges I can see Smarts Mountain ahead. Great views. As I write this journal entry I'm looking at Smarts Mountain from the other side, Mt Cube. Awesome! I love being able to see where I'm going and where I've been. The "Green Tunnel" is opening up. Before beginning the climb up Smarts the trail passes Bill Ackerly's house. We know this because there's a sign, with pink flamingos, right on the trail. It offers free water and ice cream. Meeting Bill was a pleasure. Two SOBOs are sleeping on his covered porch. Bill parks me at his kitchen table and hands me coffee. Another Trail Angel. There should be another phrase...like tremendous human being. It's about way more than ice cream to hikers. Smarts Mountain is awesome. The climb gets very steep. There's a stretch of rebar steps anchored in the rock face at one point. My steps are slow. I confess that I'm liking it. This is just a taste of what's ahead. And the reward for this effort is a tremendous view from the fire tower. We're getting into the mountains again for sure. This is going to be another moderate mileage day. Hexacuba is my goal. I'm in no hurry. The down side of Smarts is long and easy, not steep at all. Hexacuba sits part way up Mt Cube. It's .3 off the AT but one of those shelters I wanted to stay at. A six sided log shelter. Very nice and perched on the mountain side in the trees. Being early, mid afternoon, I find the only good tent site and set up. Critter is in the shelter. He'd passed me early in the day, heading for Glencliff to meet up with Kristo and Shivers. Stuff happens. He's here and it's good to see him. BC, doing a section, shows up and confirms that I got the only good tent site. Then there's a couple SOBOs, one being Three by Five who's on his final leg of a flip flop. I'm in my tent before dark, but I imagine Five Star shows up towards dusk. It's been another great day. I am loving NH. The trail is getting more difficult and more rewarding. Everyone talks about the Whites. I'm on the doorstep. I've got lots of time left to finish. There's no hurry. I'm slow up the climbs but I feel terrific. The AT is becoming so amazing that it's taken on a surreal hue. Sometimes I find it hard to believe it's really happening. I've imagined being here for a long time. What an adventure!
Date: 2014-07-21
From: Hexacuba Shelter

To: Jeffers Brook Shelter
Miles today: 15.7

I like having a climb first thing in the morning. It's cooler then. The legs are fresh. As I start to warm up in the morning light the climb feels good. It's much better than having a climb last thing in a day. From Hexacuba the trail is heading for the top of the South Peak of Mt Cube. I stopped twice before the top, thinking I was there. Each time there was a large exposed rock face with great views, looking back towards Smarts Mt., where I could see the land spread out between Cube and Smarts, the way the AT came. My hope was that there was a view of Moosilauke from the top. Nope. The North Peak of Cube blocked the view. In hindsight, I should have taken the blue blazed trail over to the North Peak. I now sit at the base of Moosilauke and haven't seen it. I really liked Mt Cube. The views. The open rock slabs. Even the rock itself. Beautiful. From the top the trail seemed to go down a long way. For most of the day the trail was rolling. It was often wet and buggy. I'm so glad we haven't had rain for a while. This section must be a hog wallow after a couple of rainy days. Mostly I just hiked along in a green tunnel. Not much of note. No views of Moosilauke. Really, not much of anything. The bubble of SOBOs seems to be going by. I lost count. But now the southbounders are "normal" people. Not the athletic high mileage SOBOs of the past few days. They often stop to chat for a moment. I suspect they'll get sick of NOBOs when they hit the northbound bubble. The high point of the day was when Zacksquatch caught up to me. We were tramily, coming out of Georgia in the same group. I hadn't seen him since Damascus, just inside the south border of Virginia. It was so good to meet up again. Jeffers Brook Shelter is at the base of Mt Moosilauke. I'm poised for the first serious climb since...since somewhere in the south. The last time I did a 3800 foot climb was long ago. I'm tired of thinking about Moosilauke. I just want to get into it. This will be my arrival into the Whites. It's huge. At the shelter we have Zacksquatch, Big Spoon, Toast, Pyro, Solo and myself as NOBOs. BC is heading north on this year's section hike. Athena and Moxie are the two SOBOs at the shelter. It's a fine group. We all bed down as it gets dark. We NOBOs are eager to get up Moosilauke. I'm excited. It's finally here. The Whites.
Date: 2014-07-22
From: Jeffers Brook Shelter

To: North Woodstock, NH
Miles today: 8.4

At last. We're all up early, eager to sink our teeth into this mountain we've had on our mind since forever. The profile map shows 3800 feet of steep up, followed by a legendary down. We've all been hearing about Moosilauke. There are some horror stories as well. It's all best ignored. Let's just do this. I leave first but the others soon pass me. My aerobic red line is much lower than these young guys. We've all got almost 1800 miles of hiking worked into our legs. The legs just pump up the incline. It's sweaty work but that's par for this course. Moosilauke wasn't that bad to the summit. Yes it was steep. For a long time. But I was a bit shocked when the trail leveled out .8 mile from the top. Meanwhile, the forest changed to dwarf evergreens. And before the top the trail is above the tree line. Spectacular. We all gathered at the top, sweat getting cold in the breeze. I felt terrific. As we all snacked and talked, the mountains stretched off to the horizon. This was it. We're at the gateway to the Whites. Very exciting. I'll never forget it. The trail down is stuff of trail rumor. Very steep. I'm well behind the other hikers, taking my time. I must have been descending at a mile an hour through the steepest stuff. The last mile or so the trail runs beside a brook that is cascading down the side of the mountain. The rocks are often wet. I really place my feet carefully. Just one slip... In places there are steps anchored into the rock slabs. Hand holds are anchored as well, occasionally. All in all, I'm kind of enjoying myself. I had feared this mountain a little. Do I have what it takes to make it through the Whites? I thought I did. Today I know I do. Moosilauke meant a lot to me. I'm so glad I finally got to go up and over. And oh the view!It was early afternoon when I reached the bottom. Low miles and a short day. But my plan was to get a motel in North Woodstock and get clean. It worked out perfect. As I reserved a room I also flagged down a ride into town. Perfect. And what room did they give me? The Moosilauke Room.
Date: 2014-07-23
From: North Woodstock, NH

To: Kinsman Mt Stealth Site
Miles today: 10.1
Weather: clear sky

This tent site isn't very stealthy. It's right beside the trail. But I guess technically I'm not supposed to tent here. 200 feet from the trail seems to be the rule. So it's a stealth site in that it's "illegal." But no one is going to hassle me about it. I took a gamble. I waited at Eliza Brook Shelter, at the bottom of Kinsman, for half an hour or so. It was just after 2:00. Way too early to stop. Thunderstorms were forecast. The air was humid and the sky overcast. But when would the storm hit? Finally, I got tired of looking and wondering and figured I had a decent chance to make the four miles to the shelter just over South and North Kinsman Mountains. I didn't know how tough Kinsman would be. It took me quite a while to reach the top of South Kinsman Mt. Boulder climbing. Sweat pouring off me in the humid air. Trekking poles were useless at times, as I climbed on all fours. Roots. Trees. Rocks. Hand over hand trail combat. It would have been kind of fun if the sky hadn't been getting so dark. When I got to South Kinsman peak I could see all around. And it was scary. Dark clouds were coming in from the west. Wisps of cloud were blowing over the ridge line. And right then the thunder started. I was right where I didn't want to be. North Kinsman peak is .9 mile from South Kinsman, with a big dip between. And the shelter is only .6 further. A mile and a half. I am now almost running, though the trail isn't very cooperative. The rain started as I entered the dip between peaks. The thunder ramped up. I found this spot and pitched my tent. I didn't want to chance going up North Kinsman in a thunder storm. So close. It's been quite a storm. Lightning. Long deep thunder. Rain. Wind. As I lay in my tent listening to the storm I hear a voice. It's Purple Blaze. Soaked. I'm not the only fool on the hill. She sat in my tent for a while and then put hers up. We've been shouting back and forth after particularly loud cracks of thunder. They've been tremendous. It's good to have company. Purple Blaze has gone over Moosilauke today as well. Then the climb up Kinsman. Whew!It's after 7:00 now. Been storming good for about 2.5 hours. So here I stay. Tomorrow I'll drop into Franconia Notch and then head up towards Franconia Ridge. We'll see how it goes. Weather is everything. I may cut the day short and camp before the ridge. I really want to hike Franconia Ridge on a clear day. It'll be incredible. Meanwhile, there's not much to do except eat all my Oreos and rummage around in my food bag. Sounds good to me.
Date: 2014-07-24
From: Kinsman Mt Stealth Site

To: Mile 1821 stealth site
Miles today: 15.0
Weather: moderate rain

My fellow thru hikers amaze me. Critter did around 26 miles, over both Kinsman and Moosilauke, in a day. Sparky is doing 27 today. I don't know how they do it. Many are doing 20s. 15 miles, or less, is about it for me through the Whites. But I do get to pass lots of day and section hikers. The high point of the day was Franconia Ridge. I'll never forget it. On a fine day. I would have waited if the ridge was in clouds. Not to be missed. Two miles of ridge walk above the tree line. Franconia Notch below. The Whites rolling in waves to the horizon. There are no words. I can only say go there and see. You will be glad you did. Earlier in the day I had another first at AMC's Lonesome Lake Hut. I've never seen one of these AMC huts. It was right on the AT. I stopped in and they had free left over pancakes. I bought coffee and some coffee cake and sat in the dining room. Nice. I'll be stopping at every hut along the way. It's strange to see a big building, with power and hot water, in the middle of the mountains. But I can get used to it. Sure helps to stretch the food bag.I made it down to the bottom Franconia Ridge and began looking for a tent site, and water. Both were easy to find. Water was running across the trail and the site was at the end of a faint path off the AT. I can hear people come down the trail but can't see them. Perfect. This forest is boreal forest. Spruce trees and deep moss. There's some big boulders but they're completely covered in thick moss and small spruce. It's particularly amazing to see in the golden light of the setting sun. This has been another great day.
Date: 2014-07-25
From: Mile 1821 stealth site

To: mile 1834.7 tent site
Miles today: 13.7
Weather: few clouds

Everyone would agree, I think, that the AT through the Whites is more difficult than the trail south of here. It's rare that a hiker can stroll down the trail. Most of the time you're navigating your way through rocks. There are a lot of scrambles up or down rock faces. And we're in the mountains again so it goes without saying that there's lots of ups and downs. But today I just had to laugh when the trail came to a very steep drop off with a good sized stream running down it. I looked around, thinking the trail must have made a turn. Nope. The trail really did mean to descend down rocks among a waterfall. The Whites are glorious. For every sustained rock scramble there are fantastic views. From Mt Garfield I could see back along the trail of mountains and ridges, all the way to Franconia Ridge. And ahead I could make a pretty good guess where the trail would take me next. Wonderful. I stopped by two huts today. Food. There's always at least baked goods to buy. And lemonade. And there always seems to be soup. It's a good idea to ask if there are any thru hiker left overs. It might just be cold oatmeal. But that too fills the void. At Galehead Hut Purple Blaze and I washed a few dishes and got treated to free baked goods. I was thinking of asking for work for stay at Zeeland Falls Hut. For a little labor the croo lets thru hikers eat left overs after the paying guests eat, and then bunk down on the dining room floor or benches after 9:30 lights out. In the morning there's breakfast left overs. But as I ate my soup at Zeeland I realized I wasn't enjoying the loud voices and milling about of the guests. I decided to hike on and stealth camp again. I found the perfect camp site. And it was, as far as I know, completely "legal." Over 200 feet from the trail. Further than a quarter mile from a designated camp or hut area. It had one of the most comfortable fire rings and seating I've seen yet. I left an arrow and PB in the trail, thinking Purple Blaze and her friend Charly might hike this far as well. It turned out to be a very good site. I started a campfire after setting up my tent. And sure enough, near dusk Purple Blaze and Charly hiked into the site. Their joy over seeing a camp fire was priceless. We had a fine evening around the fire as it got dark. And I was glad for the company. I don't mind tenting solo but company is always better. Another great day on the AT. And Mt Washington is only a couple of days away. Life is good.
Date: 2014-07-26
From: mile 1834.7 tent site

To: Mizpah Hut
Miles today: 11.6

It was about five miles to Crawford Notch, and a major road. I couldn't decide what to do. Rumors of bad weather had me concerned, because now the trail was going to climb to Mt Washington. Also, my right knee was suddenly bothering me. My existing torn maniscus. Glucosamine has managed the issue for years. But the pounding rocky descents through the Whites seem to have irritated the condition. I thought a couple zeros would help the knee and also wait out the weather. Tstorms were forecast for later today. And the increased humidity seemed to back it up. I must have had my thumb out 45 minutes before I got a ride to Bretton Woods. The guide listed a motel there. No cell service in Crawford Notch to call ahead. I discovered the motel was no longer in business. And the other option in town wanted over $200 a night. No thanks. This plan wasn't working out. Back to the road to hitch back to the trailhead. I'd wasted about two hours. But now my my option was simple. Keep hiking. Purple Blaze and Charly were at the road crossing. Charly was hitching a ride to begin the journey back to Houston where she lived. Purple Blaze was now free to hike fast to meet her grad school schedule. I lost her into the distance as we hiked along the stunning scenery of the Webster Cliffs, high above Crawford Notch. I'll not see her again. But she was great company for a few days. I was heading for Mizpah Hut, over Mt Webster and Mt Jackson. This time I'd either pay for a bunk or ask for work for stay. Along the way I caught views of Mt Washington. It was perfectly clear up there. So much for thunderstorm forecast. Had I not wasted the two hours I could have hiked to Lake of the Clouds Hut, just 1.25 miles from the summit. It wasn't one of my best days for planning. But how can I complain? I'm in the Presidentials. It's breath taking. The trail has a way of making its own plans anyway. Usually to the hiker's benefit. The Hut was booked full and the croo couldn't decide whether or not to let me do work for stay. Spinoza, a SOBO, showed up and was left waiting too. Then Impact and Speedy G arrived. Same deal. I had met these two NOBOs at Zeeland Falls Hut, where we realized we'd all met at a trail magic picnic their relatives had put on for Fathers Day back in Delaware Water Gap. Eventually we all got work for stay. We gorged on left overs. I had to clean the grill. I asked for more chores but that was all they had. Half an hour's labor. What a deal. At lights out we bunked down in the dining room. The forecast for tomorrow is not good. But it's weather. Anything can happen. Meanwhile I'm full and have a secure dry place to sleep.
Date: 2014-07-29
From: Gorham, NH

To: Gorham
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

Zero. Gorham. Whoa! I hurt this morning!I really need this zero. And another. I go to the office and book the room for tomorrow as well. Two zero days in Gorham, NH. My right knee has me seriously limping. The blisters on my soles accent every step. Mentally, I'm refusing to fall into a dark place regarding the rest of my hike. The Whites have kicked my ass, while making my spirit soar. The trail has taught me that no matter how bad it gets, it always gets better if you don't give up. I'm going with that. With the help of random locals I learn about a local bus system. Turns out there's a stop across the street. I ride out to Walmart and buy a knee brace and more Ibuprofen...hiker's vitamin I. And meet more hikers along the way. As a thru hiker you're never a stranger in trail towns. Trail family. Tramily. As the vitamin I kicks in, and as I exercise my legs, the pain recedes and I can walk a few blocks. It's a good day for hiking. My heart and mind are out there, hiking through NH's mountains. Behind my eyelids I see the trail through the boreal forest at the higher elevations. This rest stop on my hike is giving me an even greater appreciation for the beauty out there. It dawns on me that the AT has become home. I'm feeling homesick. When I get back out there my eyes will see a wider spectrum of light. Meanwhile I go to a modest bookstore for something to read. Motel TV and inane commercials could seriously drive me crazy. The book selection is limited. OK, I'll just get Ayn Rand's The Fountainhead and reread that. It's been a long time. So that's my day. I kick back with my feet up and spend the rest of the day reading. With a couple excursions in search of food. The hunger doesn't go away. And it's a reminder that I will have a monster to wrestle with when I finish my hike...hunger. The day will come when I'll have to curb my appetite. Now is a good time to give that some serious consideration. And to give some thought to life after the AT. Hard to wrap my mind around. The trail has consumed me for months now. And will continue to do so. Katahdin is out there. It's coming closer. But I find it difficult to really think about. The subject is a visceral swirl of emotions. I can't make any sense of it. Much simpler to stay in the moment and just hike. If there's to be some flash of revelation it will have to come on its own. Or maybe this whole hike has been one long revelation. I know one thing for sure...I'm not the same person who got out of the shuttle van and hiked up to Springer Mt back on March 4.
Date: 2014-07-30
From: Gorham

To: Gorham
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: clear sky

This morning I get out of bed with less pain. I'm not limping. Rest is working its magic. The sole blisters hurt more, and those will soon be gone. The knee is more serious, but I'm encouraged by the improvement. The dark place knocking at my mind is receding.   So another day of rest and reading. And food of course. I find out about a bus that stops in Gorham, on its way to Logan Airport in Boston. It makes one stop in Gorham, and that's just a five minute walk up the street. It also stops at Pinkham Notch, which is where I got off the AT. Perfect. No hassle getting back to the trail tomorrow. Later in the afternoon I get a message from Zacksquatch. He, Pyro, and Solo are in town. This is great. I meet them at the AYCE Chinese buffet and then we hang out until well after dark. Drinking beers and swapping stories. Way better than sitting alone in my room. I won't be seeing Zacksquatch or Pyro again. They're ramping up their hike tomorrow to get Pyro done in time for his flight back to Germany. I'm so glad I got to spend some time with them. Solo has to go off trail for a few days, so I'll be seeing him again. I'm so ready to get back on trail. Two zero days is enough. It's a trail purgatory. Tomorrow will tell how my knees are doing. I can't wait to get on with it.
Date: 2014-07-31
From: Gorham

To: Mile 1876 tent site
Miles today: 10.1

That's two bears so far in NH. Well, maybe they don't count. I saw them from the bus as it entered Pinkham Notch. A cub ran across the road, right in front of the bus. Shortly after, there was a large bear just foraging beside the highway. Go figure. We hike through the Whites and don't see any bears. But down in the valley, along the road...I set off up Wildcat Mt, rumored to be quite steep. It was, but not all that bad. Not considering what has gone before in the Whites. It's about a 2000 foot climb to Wildcat Mt Peak D where the gondola ride up from the notch ends. Along the way the trail summits over Peak E. Then come Peaks C and A. Wildcat Mt is a multi headed beast. And then comes a steep 1100 foot drop into Carter Notch. I take it slow. Carter Notch is the home of the last AMC hut the AT passes, going north. It's been a fun ride, enjoying the grace the huts extend to thru hikers. I stop in at Carter Notch Hut for a final bowl of soup, with refill. Then a 1500 foot climb up Carter Dome. The views are limited from the dome. It's in the clouds. The air is heavy with potential thunderstorms. The forecast this morning wasn't very good. Then on to Mt Hight, where I sit a while and watch dark clouds moving all around, just above the elevation of Mt Hight's summit. Followed by another steep drop, into Zeta Pass. I'm now playing a little leapfrog with two young women SOBOs who are slack packing this 21 mile section, between roads, NOBO. As the AT starts to elevate towards Middle Carter Mountain thunder starts to rumble in the distance. Sprinkles come and go. The thunder gets louder and I see lightning flashes. Just before Middle Carter Mt I spot a tent site just off the trail. I'm on it. My tent goes up as the thunder gets louder. The two SOBOs hike by. Slack packing, I'm sure they're tentless. I'm sure they're OK but they must have gotten a scare because suddenly lightning is over head and the boom of thunder is immediate. Loud. So loud. And it begins to hail and rain. I got under cover just in time. Fortunately for my fellow hikers the storm lasts less than an hour. It's 6:30 now and the storm has passed. You just never know. But I'm calling it a day. I wanted to only do about ten miles anyway, and see how the knees handle it. The right knee hurts a bit. Today was a good test. But nothing alarming is going on. I'm calling it a success. I'm in the boreal forest of spruce and moss again. The Whites will soon come to an end. Hands down, the Whites have been the best part of the hike so far. The Roan Highlands move to number two. But really, how can I rank them? Awesome...all of it!