Date: 2014-10-10
From: Front Royal

To: Waynesboro
Miles today: 20.0
Weather: overcast clouds

I had to conquer my fear of rats to remain in last night's shelter, but that's getting ahead of the story. VA and the Shenandoah National Park has been my favorite section of the AT since NH and the Whites; I hope I can make clear why here.First, a recap since last post:9/30: David Lesser Memorial Shelter (1175)A gorgeous shelter in WV, with a porch and swing, but the rain limited me to getting 9 miles south of Harpers Ferry.10/1: Bear's Den Hostel (1186.2 or 999.1)A famous old mansion-turned-hostel run by the AMC that couldn't be skipped. A beautiful place, and the staff awesome. "This is It" is here after taking a few days off in DC. 10/2: Dick's Dome Shelter (1204.5 or 980.8)The "roller coaster" of VA--13 miles of 6-7 wee hills--is done and dusted, but it did take its toll, and leaves me with 15 to get to Front Royal and a re-supply.10/3: Mountain Home "Cabbin" near Front Royal (1219.7)Stayed with hostess Lisa, who works for the EPA and whose husband Scott thru-hiked a few years back, in a small and thus crowded but cute house which was built in the 1760s. It's their 1st year in business, but amazing potential.Trail Angel extra-ordinaire Vickie, who started following my blog on tj-dot-com, drove several hours to give me an amazing replacement digital cam, and awesome greek food, as well as a drive out to pick my maildrop. She's terrific people, and exemplifies what I've said here before: the AT community is what keeps me on the trail. We picnicked with This is It and then went to Rappahannock Vineyards for a rushed but tasty tasting to end our day. I begged her to let me return the favor some time in FL's panhandle. (My maildrop included new Salomon trail-runners--free from the company, which rocks--as well as some warmer weather gear. Thanks for it, Karyssa!)Rain all day up on the ridge, but none in town.10/4: Gravel Springs Hut (1233 or 952) An easy 14 miles back up onto the Catoctin rocks and into Shenandoah National Park. A problem bear was euthanized here today, having harassed hikers by stealing their gear for the past two weeks. Had it been a younger sow, they would have re-located it, a Ranger told me. There are a record numbers of cubs, given last season's bumper crop of acorns. The bear was stealing gear from the shelter, which is not cool at all, and having a ranger to call in such a situation is one reason to heart the SNP.Criss-crossing Skyline Drive, which the AT does 28 times within the 103 miles of the park, I thought a lot of my Mom, who loved this part of the country. She and Pops would stay at the Scottish Inn in Front Royal, which is still in operation. I too have been thru here, but I can't begin to describe the differences between the SNP via the AT vs via Skyline Drive.10/5: Byrd's Nest #3 Hut (1250.6 or 934.7)Mary's Rock was the highlight of a great day hiking on-and-off with This is It and K2,a very cool kid from Issaquah, Wash., who also blogs here. Crisp air and killer views! Elkhollow Wayside--and yes, elk were once common here--supplied a great lunch, with blackberry ice-cream for desert. The shelter was exposed, and the temps were in the lower 40s, but it had an inside fireside, which we put to full use.10/6: Bearfence Mtn Hut (1273)Lots of trail magic, including that from two park rangers, helped with 23 miles today. 10/7: Hightop Hut (1285.4)Fell on my tailbone, sprained my fingers, and had to call it short today. Ever step uphill hurt. Crowded shelter, but good folks, even if firefighter Rude Dawg is a closeted arsonist--he managed to build a huge fire in the driving rain. Freakin' Rhody showed up, having been distracted by a friend in WV for a few days; a very cool kid, even though he walks too fast. I got a great breakfast from a couple hanging in Lewis Campground; they "always wanted to make b-fast for a thru-hiker" apparently, and I was happy to make their dream come true.10/8: Blackrock Hut (1306.8 or 878.8)21+ miles today, over the Greenstone of this pretty mountain. The shelter seemed nice, but a registry entry warned of rats. I was alone in the loft, while Rhody and 3 section-hikers filled the ground-floor. The rats obviously owned the upstairs, and they danced around my head and chewed on my sweaty gear all night long. They were oblivious to my headlamp, and I ended up with all my sensitive gear in my sleeping bag with me, so they couldn't abscond with it. Who knew that rats were so verbal; they had a running convo in soft shrieks and bird-like tweets going on in the walls all around me. I don't know how, but I managed to sleep.10/9: Quality Inn in Waynesboro (1327.4)Another day of over 20 miles, plus some road-walking in Waynesworld. The free church hostel and Stanimal's $20 both here are closed for the season, nobos having dried up. I was exhausted, and filthy, so took the only hotel listed within walking distance.I hope to do laundry, mail some stuff home, finding a book to read, and re-supply here tomorrow a.m., before getting back on the trail in the rain and readying for "The Priest", an impressive 4000' monolith 30 miles south of here. The cold weather snap I went through here is a mere shot across the bow, and I have some re-tooling to do before approaching the 6,000' summits of TN and NC in November.I do have a plan to finish up however:I should be 20-22 days from Damascus, at the bottom of VA. This means getting to Daleville by 10/19 and the famous McAfee Knob the next day.Pearisburg around the 25th and Woods Hole the following day.Marion around the 30th. The Grayson Highland ponies on Nov. 1 and Damascus, where I should zero, on the 3rd or so. (I dream of getting off the trail here and NOBO-ing back here for traildays in the Spring, but then again, I dream of getting off all the time and everywhere. Staying focused on the immediate goal is difficult, without worrying about reaching the final goal.) Hampton, TN around 11/8 and Roan Mtn on the 10th, with Erwin and another possible zero on the 13th or 14th.Hot Springs on 11/19-20 and Gatlinburg around the 25th. Fontana Dam around Thankxgiving and the NOC by the end of the month, optimistically speaking.Franklin, NC around 12/03 and Hiawassee, GA, on the 6th. This would mean Springer and the end of the trail around 12/12! I get to see my girls by mid-December...maybe, and if winter weather cooperates!!!!!All the best to loved ones, friends, and casual observers out there.