Date: 2011-04-29
From: Big Flat Campsite

To: Spivey Gap
Miles today: 17.7
Weather: scattered clouds

Got up this morning to a day that was clear and cold. My thermometer showed 35° as I was cooking breakfast. Not a cloud in the sky with a light breeze; should be a great day to go for a hike!With no water nearby I used the last I had for a hot breakfast and coffee. Ah, the simple pleasures in life, a hot meal and a hot cup of Starbucks Joe on a cold morning!When I got to Hogback Ridge Shelter about 9:30 I walked around the corner of the shelter to find a half dozen hikers seated at the table finishing breakfast. On the table were about a dozen unopened beers. "Want a beer" one of them asked. "I've only been on the trail a couple of days so I haven't earned it yet. I'll leave it for you thru-hikers" I replied. Apparently there was a party here last night. Glad I hadn't puahed on to the shelter with Sherpa Lady late last night.Stopped at the spring about a mile out of Sam's Gap to get water. This is where I had camped with Further and his black Lab in '07. I remembered a strong spring with a big pool, but instead found only a shallow muddy trickle. Still, there was plenty to filter for the dry climb over Big Bald. Vegemite was also at the spring finishing eating lunch. He is a tall lanky guy from Australia who has hiked the Pacific Crest Trail and is now thru-hiking the AT. It was interesting hearing him talk about his experiences on the PCT, and how different that thru-hike experience is from the AT.It is a long 6 mile climb up to the top of Big Bald, gaining about 1,700 feet. The higher I got the colder it became, and the harder the wind was blowing. On top of Big Bald my thermometer showed 51° with a 28 mph wind. Chilly! Especially compared to the mid 70's to low 80's each day so far. A cold front must have gone thru and the visibility was excellent with a 360° view from the open grassy summit of Big Bald. Several ravens were having a ball playing on the gusty winds around the peak. Bluebirds and indigo buntings were singing and several species of swallows were cruising around on the updrafts.After some photos I headed down to Bald Mt Shelter for a water refill so I could choose my evening campsite without worrying about having enough water for dinner and next morning's breakfast. Little Bald turned out to be a steep up and down that I didn't remember at all and my feet began to hurt on the downhill to Whistling Gap. I thought about staying, but decided to push on for Spivey Gap because it was still relatively early. The hike up and over High Rocks was short and sweet but the long downhill to Spivey Gap began to take its toll on my feet.I had decided to camp just before the road crossing at Spivey Gap and knew at least 2 other hikers who were likely to be there already, including Vegemite. A hundred yards before the road there was a cardboard sign in the trail saying "Trail Magic". About a dozen thru-hikers were gathered around a table full of food and drinks. There was also corn roasting and potatoes baking in a well tended fire. Hoover (GA-ME '99) and his parents and girlfriend were feeding hikers tonight and tomorrow morning, something they do here every year for one overnight. What a treat, and so much more enjoyed when it is unexpected! I set up my tent nearby and joined the party! Right at dark 4 hikers put on their headlamps and set off to night hike the 5.1 miles to the next shelter so they could arrive in Erwin, TN early Saturday morning before the Post Office closes at noon to pick up their bounce boxes. My feet were glad we were staying put right here!Just after I went to bed a pair of barred owls began talking to each other, the first I have heard this trip. Fun end to an interesting day.