Date: 2023-08-03
From: Sherman Brook Shelter

To: Clarendon Shelter
Miles today: 90.2

Google Photos Photo AlbumDay 50Sherman Brook to Melville Nauheim ShelterAT miles 18.3Miles hiked 18.3I got off to another early start today knowing the going would be a little slower with all the roots, rocks, and mud. I wasn't wrong.The trail started off up a steep, wet, rocky path with a rock garden near the the top of the climb. About an hour into my hike I came to the Vermont border. There were a couple hikers there so we traded photo taking duties before continuing on. The border is also the southern terminus of the Vermont Long Trail, the oldest long distance hiking trail in America and the inspiration for the AT. Vermont is also known as Vermud. It didn't take long to figure out why. The trail was pretty muddy. Except where it was grossly muddy. To be fair there were occasional stretches of nice trail tread but was mostly nice hiking despite all the mud.At some point I caught up with Roadrunner just past the Seth Warner shelter and we hiked together past a beaver pond and climbed Harmon Hill. Through the afternoon it grew progressively darker and it finally started to rain just before the steep descent to Route 9. Roadrunner stopped to put on his rain cover but I kept going. I caught up with Coyote and Banana when we got to the long section of irregularly spaced rock steps. We all had the same plan: get off these steps before they get wet. I got a thigh crushing workout getting down that mountain. Silver Back wasn¢t so lucky on those steps as he slipped and fell. It was a torrential downpour by the time we got to the road. There was a nice latrine at the trailhead so I took advantage and stopped in for a visit. Back on the trail it was a steep climb back up from the road. I stopped at the Nauheim shelter but Roadrunner, Coyote, and Banana kept going, trying to make more miles because Roadrunner's family was coming from Canada to visit him.Gucci and Watermelon Man along with several other hikers were camped there. Finding a good spot to set up a tent in the rain wasn¢t an easy proposition. I finally found a spot by the old privy that had been knocked down and filled in. It was pretty weedy everywhere except right by the shelter. Silver Back, being a hammocker had a much better time finding a spot.I set my tent up in the rain and went to the shelter to cook dinner. There were a couple of SOBOs in there telling us what to expect in New Hampshire and Maine. We all had lots of questions. What we came away with is that it will be hard but the experience of a lifetime. By this time, much to everyone's relief, it had stopped raining. Soon enough it was hiker midnight so we all went off to our tents, bunks, or hammocks.Day 51Nauheim Shelter to Kid Gore ShelterAT miles 12.8Miles hiked 12.8About 3:00 AM we had a big storm roll in. I was hoping the tent would hold up as hard as the wind was blowing and the rain was coming down. I woke up about 6:00 when it stopped raining, figuring I had a small window of opportunity to get packed up and eat before the rain came back. The plan was to do about 20 to get me closer to Manchester so I could do a resupply. I ran into Jose who was slackpacking back to a hostel that was near where I planned to stop. After a bit we caught up to two guys from New York who were hiking the Long Trail. We all hiked together planning to stop for lunch at the next shelter. The morning was wet making the trail into a rocky stream. Just past the Porcupine lookout a trailrunner caught up to us and asked if he could pass. He didn¢t really look like he was dressed for trail running but hey, to each their own. We continued our climb up to Goddard shelter where we planned to stop for lunch. Besides being wet, it was also pretty cold out and I was looking forward to some hot soup. Jose wasn¢t really dressed for the cold and since he was slackpacking didn¢t have any of his additional gear to fall back on.About a mile from the shelter a well dressed trail runner carrying a small backpack went flying past us up the mountain. He was pretty nice and said he¢d see us at the shelter or on his way back down. The second trail runner I'd seen out in this nasty weather on this even nastier trail. Hard core.As the Goddard shelter came into view we were surprised to see a crowd gathered there. Unusual for the middle of the day. Everybody made room for us to get out of the rain. The crowd of people, including the aforementioned trail runners were all attending to a female hiker or runner. The first trail runner who passed us turned out to be her husband. The second was a medical guy. The girl was a trail runner trying to set the Southbound Fastest Known Time (FKT) for the Long Trail. She got caught out in the storm, got hypothermic and was dehydrated when she came past the shelter. The hikers staying in the shelter gave her first aid and sent for help. Apparently she was on pace to break the record when she broke down. Silver Back showed up a little later and we sat eating lunch and watching the goings on. Jose left because he was getting cold and was supposed to meet his ride at a road intersection. We were planning to meet at the Wicked Waystation Hostel near Stratton, Vermont. I cooked lunch so I could get something hot in me.  Shortly after the shelter was a fire tower on Glastenbury Mountain that is supposed to provide awesome views. However, given the rain and limited visibility I decided to pass on climbing the tower. The hiking was tough and my mileage plans changed after 6 hours of hiking in the misting rain, wading through mud, slipping and sliding on rocks, including a good knee banger that really peaked the pain meter. The thought crossed my mind that if this is America's oldest long distance hiking trail then by now the maintainers could have fixed some of the crappiest sections of trail instead of being proud of their mud bog. But hey, that's just the midwest/southerner logic coming out in me. What do I know about New Englanders? The rain pretty much stopped by the time I got to Kid Gore shelter. I stopped instead at the Kid Gore Shelter for a snack. Silver Back and Spiccoli and Lucy (his dog) were already there. Furious George was off trail attending a wedding. After about five minutes I decided this was the end of my day. No way I was hiking any more of this trail, especially after dark. I found a sort of OK place to pitch my tent and set it up. It was soaking wet inside and out. Spiccoli having taken a zero in the shelter with his dog. He was going slow up the trail waiting for George to return to the trail. While he was there he patched his air mattress and cleaned the shelter. Silver Back and Spiccoli convinced me to stay in the shelter since it was getting ready to storm again. Especially since there was no getting my tent dry and I didn¢t want to get my recently re-aquired quilt wet. Hopefully, no other hikers show up. Inside the logbook was an incredible colored pencil drawing of the view of the valley from inside the shelter. Whoever drew that was a gifted artist.The mosquitoes were still bad but Silver Back had bought these little citronella candles to ward off the mosquitoes so we placed those down the middle of the shelter. Surprisingly, they worked rather well. Spiccoli entertained us with some rather excellent guitar playing and it wasn't long before we were out for the night.Day 52Gore Shelter to Stratton Pond CampsiteAT miles 15.2Miles hiked 15.7The morning sun woke us around 6 so we all crawled out of our quilts and started making breakfast. Spiccoli had woken up in time to see the sunrise and he told us how beautiful it was. Silver Back and I were treated to an overcast view of white. The plan for the day was to make it to Stratton Mountain, catch the gondola ride to the bottom of the mountain, grab some lunch at the caf©, gondola back up, then hike to Stratton Pond for the night. There would be no fast hiking this day. But for good reasons.  By the time I was ready to leave the sun was out and there was the hopeful promise of a nice day. I was the last to leave the shelter and was enjoying the sunshine and extra warmth, but not so much the mud and slick rocks. After a couple hours a rather unusual hiker passed me. Silver Back and I refer to her as the "Woods Sprite".  I was hiking along with my head down trying to stay upright when I saw this small, bare foot in the mud. The foot was attached to a girl who looked to be high school age. I commented on her choice of footwear and how there¢s no way with my tender feet I¢d be able to walk a step on the trail barefoot. She said she¢d spent the past year toughening her feet up. I learned she was hiking to her new job in Virginia. She was wearing a sundress and carrying a skimpy net bag with a glass water bottle and a cup from a Stanley Thermos. She mentioned that she'd read the book about Grandma Gatewood and that book inspired her hike. She said her trail name in Polish saying her family had immigrated from Poland. She then translated her name for me to mean Sophia the Stubborn. We wished each other well and I kept thinking that may have been the strangest thing I've seen out here so far.A bit farther up the trail I met a LASH who was nearly finished with his multi-year attempt at hiking the trail.After these two delays all I could envision was Silver Back riding in a gondola down to the cafe for lunch and me eating the last of my snacks. I was practically running up the trail trying to catch him when I came to a road intersection with a trail magic sign. Dilemma. Skip the trail magic to hopefully make the gondola ride or go for the sure thing. Then Silver Back called to me. Problem solved. Bratwurst, corn on cob, chips and chicken buffalo dip, ice cold drinks, homemade cookies and great conversation with the trail angels and other hikers who showed up. One of the trail angels was wearing a green shirt with an 80 on the front. He was the 80th person to complete a thru hike of the AT. Hiking royalty.After a long stay and lots of food we were back on the trail. Two miles later we came to a trailhead parking lot and there was more trail magic! More conversation, this time with former thru hikers who were also local trail maintainers.  Well, definitely no gondola ride today but I wasn't complaining. Now for a looong climb up Stratton Mountain to climb the fire tower. The forest turned into a spruce forest near the top of the mountain and the air smelled like Christmas. There was no view from the peak of the mountain but that all changed as soon as I started climbing the fire tower. I felt like I could see forever! The views were amazing. The wind was whipping and it was cold up there. I was lamenting the fact that my camera had died but then thought, "let me give it one more try." It worked! My camera came back to life! So, back up the tower I went to hopefully capture some better pics.It was starting to get late and we still had over 3 miles to Stratton Pond so off we went back down through the aromatic spruce forest.  Stratton Pond was a busy place with a crossover of SOBOs and NOBOs along with Long Trail hikers and weekenders. Silver Back and I each found camping spots then went to the pond to filter some water. Pond water is not my favorite but Orange Crush drink mix greatly improves the palatability. I seriously needed a resupply as I was totally out of snacks and breakfast. Another hiker was totally out of food. We were digging through our food bags trying to help the guy out when I ran out of fuel while cooking dinner. An older couple came to the shelter and poured out their food bag and said take what you want because we are going home a day early to avoid the coming rain. Then she placed a fuel canister on the table and said we could have that too. Once again, the trail provides.I finished cooking dinner while trading trail info with the SOBOs. Before long it was past hiker midnight and we all went off to bed.  Day 53Stratton Pond to Manchester Center, VTAT miles 10.5Miles hiked 10.8Between the cool air and absence of the threat of rain, I slept really well, not waking up until 7. I easily could have rolled back over and slept some more. But, I needed to get moving because Silver Back and I were going to Manchester Center for resupply and we were splitting a room at the Aspen Motel. As much as I needed food, Silver Back was in desperate need of shoes as the bottom of one of his shoes had separated from the top and he'd been hiking like that for a week. Imagine stepping in ankle deep mud with shoes that allow the mud to get in through the bottom.We had about 12 miles ahead of us to the road into town. On the map it looked like a fairly easy hike. But there were definitely a lot of ups and downs, stream crossings, rocky trail, tree roots, and, of course, mud. Silver Back got to the trailhead about a mile ahead of me and said he had found a potential ride into town from some people he had passed on the trail. I got to the parking lot about 25 minutes later and had passed the same group of hikers going southbound more than an hour before he had texted me. We decided to try our luck at hitching. In less than five minutes a a form thru hiker who had injured her leg stopped and gave us a ride to the motel.We took quick showers then walked into town to the outfitters then lunch.The outfitters was pretty well-stocked. I got some new socks, a sleeping bag liner along with some pole tip covers for when I get to the White Mountains. Silver Back was able to get a new pair of shoes. He wasn¢t pleased with the color but he appreciated the upgrade in comfort.After the outfitters we ate a huge lunch at a Tex-Mex place then stopped at a gas station for snacks then headed back to the room to do laundry and rest.After cleaning up and organizing my gear I went to work on updating my journal and photos between naps. I was shocked at how far behind I'd gotten and felt bad because I know that family and friends are trying to follow my journey.Silver Back was doing the same thing with his video journal.  By the end of most hiking days all I really want to do is go to bed. I try my best to keep up with the journaling so when I have wi-fi I can do an update. Well, I have wi-fi so I'd better get to it. Hopefully, I can spend time on an actual computer at the library tomorrow.Tomorrow we need to go back to the outfitters then the grocery store for trail food. I also need to get a new SD card for my camera.Day 54Aspen Motel, Manchester Center, VTAT miles 0Miles hiked 0My first official, planned zero day.  First order of business ¢ breakfast. We ate a huge, delicious breakfast at the Upstairs Cafe. This was a popular place. It was packed when we got there just after they opened and there were people waiting in line when we left. Next stop was back to the outfitters to do a sock exchange. Darn Tough guarantees their dock won't get holes in them. If they do, they will exchange the holy socks for new socks. Silver Back¢s and my feet are tougher than their darn socks. We made the long walk to the grocery store for resupply and it was raining by the time we got there. We made our purchases and as I was waiting in line a woman started asking about our hike and talked about her section hikes. As I was leaving she asked if we need a ride anywhere. Yes! The walk back to the hotel would have been miserable carry paper grocery bags in the rain.After dropping our food off at the hotel I went to the library to send out the cross country training plan and fix my AT spreadsheet. Silver Back had some business to attend to and we agreed to meet back at the hotel to order pizza for dinner.I updated my journal, fixed my spreadsheet, and got the cross country stuff taken care of. I didn¢t eat lunch so was pretty hungry. I headed back to the motel grabbing a snack on the way. By the time I got back it was dinner time. We ordered some unremarkable pizza for dinner, repackaged our food, packed our packs then started watching some stupid movie. We both fell asleep before the movie was over but neither of us could remember what it was about nor really cared. Day 55Manchester Center to Big Branch ShelterAT miles 16.5Miles hiked 17.5We went down to the motel office for their continental breakfast and I can say with certainty that they spared every expense on breakfast. Still, we consumed as many calories as we could before heading back out on the trail.We had trouble finding a ride back to the trail so started the 4 mile walk. We called every shuttle service we could find a number for as well as tying to find an Uber or Lyft. Nothing to do but hike. After about a mile a guy in a truck stopped and gave us a ride. He was a hiker and often gave rides to hikers.The trail started with a climb up Bromley Mountain. The trail exited to woods into something resembling a powerline only I noticed snow guns along the side of the trail. Must be a ski trail. It didn¢t take long to reach the peak where there is a ski resort. We ate a snack sitting on the chairlift platform then took off. It wasn¢t long before the rain returned.As we were slushing along through the Vermont mud Pizza Handz came sliding by. We were both surprised and happy to see each other. He told me he'd found some gamers in a hiker box for me, we fist bumped and he was gone. The man hikes like an all-terrain vehicle. Right down the middle of the trail walking over or through whatever is in his path.The three of us and two young guys hiking the Long Trail ate lunch in a shelter trying to refuel while taking a break from the rain. The weather cleared up for about 2 hours which gave the mosquitoes time to eat lunch.Climbing up Baker Peak there were amazing views to the south and west with huge banks of clouds swirling through the valley. I was fortunate to get a window of clear sky that allowed me to see the marble quarry where they get the marble for the monuments in D.C. This climb was a bit of a scramble and it got worse towards the peak. The clear skies quickly vanished along with the once dry day. As it started raining harder I took a BIG fall while stepping over a tree. I stepped over with my left foot making sure I had solid ground contact. As soon as I took my right foot off the ground my left foot slipped off an embankment. I was momentarily weightless, suspended in the air before falling about 5 feet and landing on my back. I was not a happy hiker. I crawled my muddy self back the embankment to the trail, gathered my senses, and put my head down and got back to hiking.  We planned to meet at Big Branch Shelter. I made it to the trail intersection and saw somebody putting up a hammock (turns out it was Silver Back) but there was not place there to pitch a tent. I crossed the angry Big Branch River on a bridge. Seeing some campers down to my right I went down to see who was there. For hikers they were not very friendly or welcoming but then again it was pouring rain. I went back up to the AT and continued northbound to the shelter arriving at about 7:30. Not seeing either Silver Back or Pizza Handz and not wanting to keep wandering aimlessly in the rain, I elected to stay in the shelter with a guy hiking a section of the Long Trail. I ate dinner the went out to find a place to hang my food bag. There was no such place so I decided to sleep with my food bag. I figured any bear wandering around in this weather deserved a free meal. I apologized to the other hiker but he was cool with it saying that even bears would probably be seeking shelter from this weather.I slept good despite the noise from the rain and the river and fortunately there was no mouse activity.Day 56Big Branch Shelter to Clarendon ShelterAT miles 16.9Miles hiked 17.9The rain from the night before had slowed to a slight drizzle by morning which was an improvement over the previous night. The other shelter guy and I had a nice conversation as we ate our oatmeal and drank our morning coffee then packed up. By the time we started hiking it had stopped raining and there was even a hint of sunshine.  The hike was nice, scenery-wise as the trail skirted a pond. The trail was a messier mess as a result of the rain so that part was not so fun. The trail eventually came to a big parking lot and a large, clean, not stinky privy. Trail magic comes in many forms.Back to hiking I was relieved to be walking on what looked to be a nice smooth forest road. Check that. Nicely flowing mountain stream. Any part of my feet that may have been dry were now soaked. After a time the trail disappeared. After a playing a bit of aquatic find the trail I noticed a white blaze (hopefully) way up the trail on the other side of an even bigger stream. Who designed this trail? At least I wouldn't have to walk far to find water to filter.After negotiating a beaver bog over precariously placed bog bridges the trail began turning into something vaguely resembling a hiking trail. I passed the location of the Aldrich Mill Village from the 1890s. There were some old mill artifacts lying about that I thought were pretty interesting. One man's junk is another man's treasure.Finally up at a higher elevation the trail was pretty nice. Camped at a stealth site behind some large boulders were Miracle and Sunshine. We greeted each other as I passed by on my way to the "rock gardens". Some leave no trace purists probably cringe when they see these areas. Nature snobs.  There are two sections of what can only be described as rock art.  Anybody is welcome to come in and create their own rock arrangement. I was content with just admiring the creativity of others. Miracle later told me he added his own addition to the garden. I can now say I know a rock artist.Eventually, Silver Back, Miracle, Sunshine, Proof, Pizza Handz, and I were all hiking together. There was a deli coming up that was a short walk down a road crossing. The thought of a soda and real food is hard to resist. Coming down a steep hill I stepped on what I thought was a patch of moss. It was. It was a moss covered rock. I slipped and took a pretty hard fall.  We came to Clarendon Gorge where a suspension bridge crossed high above the Cross Mill River. The views of the gorge were very impressive. We got down to Route 103 and hiked up the road to Goucheberg Farms Market and Deli. There was also an ice cream stand there. We ordered sandwiches and bought some sodas then went out to the picnic table to eat dinner.We ate our sandwiches and some ice cream and were ready to head out when this family showed up and started asking about our hikes. Next thing we know he's taking the car seat out of his car and says, "Honey, I'll be right back. I'm going to haul these folks back to the trail."Get out of here. After profusely thanking the man and his wife for their kindness we cram all our stuff and our bodies in his car and he takes us back to the trail. During the drive we find out he's the one who built the ice cream stand and does all the maintenance work on the deli. He and his wife meet hikers all the time and they are amazed at what we do and like to help them out. A story we hear all the time.We were especially grateful for the ride when we got to the trail. The first part was a long stretch through an overgrown field with weeds over our heads. Then we had about a half mile near vertical rock scramble. When we got to Clarendon Lookout near the mountain top, Pizza Handz and I decided to stop and take in the sunset. Once the sun was down we made our way to the campsite and set up our tents. No need for dinner. Sleep came fast.HIking the Dream!Please email comments to:bobshike2023@gmail.com