Date: 2012-06-17
From: Lewis Spring & Road (Big Meadows, SNP, VA)

To: U.S. 211 (Thornton Gap, Luray, VA)
Miles today: 18.5

Day 68: Father's Day on the AT (and after 65 miles in Shenandoah National Park, we can finally stop worrying about being the only two 2012 thru hikers who don't see a single bear in the park!)Martha has us back on The Trail at Big Meadows a little after 7am. We smell bacon as we pass below the Lodge, and as we skirt the campground we see many families just stirring to fix breakfast. Unfortunately none call to us to join them. The early morning woods are cool and quiet, except for bird sounds, and it's a great time to be out walking. Throughout the day there are pockets of activity where we see many visitors out for Father's Day (most with a view or landmark feature, and a parking lot nearby), and the then other sections where the AT seems almost deserted. We make a brief stop to check the log at the Rock Spring Hut, where we get to talk to a father/ son duo we passed yesterday leaving Big Meadows and blackberry shakes just as we were arriving. The father's trail name CPD made us laugh when we learned it stood for "Cool Pants Dad." Shortly after, we finally spotted our first Shenandoah bear! N (in the lead for a rare occasion) got a good look at his face, but had no chance of getting a picture before he darted away (that would be the bear doing the scampering, not N).The Skyland Restaurant marked the day's halfway point, and we enjoyed an outside table in the sun where we had a lunch break and phoned our children. We ran into Tower, the brother last seen a week ago camping near us across from Wintergreen ski resort. He reported his sister had enjoyed her four days on the trail with him, in spite of a lot of rain, and that she had now returned to civilization. Fully caffeinated, X resumed the lead and pace setting as we got back on the trail. We especially enjoyed the overlook from Little Stoney Man Cliffs into the Shenandoah Valley. But we equally enjoyed all the Father's Day activity at the Pinnacles picnic area. We resisted the urge to mingle with one particularly large group who had quite an extensive lunch set out, and were rewarded for our discretion at the other end of the parking lot with a former multiple thru hiker offering trail magic. "One," who we hadn't seen since Waynesboro was there when we arrived, along with Ranger IPA. Now what are the chances that four folks who started the Trail on April 11th would all be at the exact same spot 930.3 miles and 68 days later??? At Byrds Nest #3 Hut we came around the corner and to our surprise (and vice versa) there sat Retread and Greenhorn, who we thought had stolen a march on us, but who had lingered until 11 at the Skyland Resort. It was like old home week!The final treat of the day was Mary's Rock, and it deserves a paragraph all its own, as the view straight down into Thornton Gap was spectacular! Wow!Martha picked us up after we climbed down from Mary's Rock, and we headed for the Mexican restaurant in Luray (which still showed signs of its beginnings as a McDonalds). Great food. Terrible service. We worried about the clouds gathering in the west and wonder if tomorrow in Shenandoah can possibly match today...