Date: 2005-06-09
From: Rusty's Hard Time Hollow

To: Rusty's Hard Time Hollow
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: light rain

Gozar and I caught a beautiful sunrise at Spy Rock before getting a very early start. The Spy Rock magic had continued; I was well rested from a good night's sleep. We hiked up over the Priest and had an early lunch on the banks of the Tye River. It was familiar ground for me. I returned to backpacking over fall break in 2000 on the very same section of trail. I even had lunch on the same rocks below the suspension bridge crossing the river, though my company was different. Rather than eating with Ned, Lydia, Carsten, and Craig I dined with Gozar and some new people I met on the trail - Bassline, Dutch Apple Pie, Gypsy Lulu, Stiltz and Touk. Still, my thoughts kept drifting back to my earlier hike. That hike, my first trip backpacking after a five year absence, may very well have planted the seeds for this hike.Gozar and I set off over the 3 Ridges, which is one of the most difficult climbs I've seen on the trail. Exhausted and drenched in sweat, we arrived at the Maupin Field Shelter around 4:30. We'd already had an early breakfast and an early lunch, so we had an early dinner as well. The lunch crew caught up to us at the shelter. They had taken the Mau-Har trail instead of the AT, opting for a scenic rock scramble and waterfalls instead of a largely viewless, steep, rocky climb. Some might call them blue blazers; others might call them smart.The lunch crew was also heading to Rusty's, but Gozar opted to hike a few more miles up the trail. Teach, Leave Behind, and Live Strong also made the 2.4 miles trek up to the Hard Time Hollow. Teach and Leave Behind are section hiking to Front Royal, though I apparently barely missed meeting Teach on an earlier portion of my hike. Just before Erwin she stayed in the Big Bald Shelter with Low Bridge and Professor. Low Bridge had let her use his stove because hers wasn't working. She remembered my name as somebody he had been hiking with and offered me a piece of chocolate when I arrived at the shelter. Bridge - thanks for spreading good karma!I hiked an easy 2.6 miles on a fire road and the Blue Ridge Parkway to reach Rusty's Hard Time Hollow. I first heard about it on my 2000 hike, but learned a few years later that Rusty had closed down the place. Then, on New Year's Day 2005, he announced that the Hollow would remain open until it sells. I knew that Rusty's was legendary as one of the original old-school hostels on the trail but little else. Knowing that this was likely my only chance to experience it, I arrived at the top of the only private driveway along the entire Blue Ridge Parkway.I had a grin on my face by the time I reached the bottom. The entire driveway was lined with humorous signs, as were the walls of the main house. The man himself was there to greet me and give me a quick tour of the place. Drinks and hot dogs were kept cool in the spring house; the horse shoe pit, disc golf course and wood-fired sauna were out back. I had to step around the ping-pong table as I threw my pack on the upper loft of the barn which had been converted to a bunk house. I had a feeling I was in for a good time.The evening was spent listening to tunes, grilling hot dogs, and throwing around a frisbee. It turns out I was far from the only Springsteen fan at the place, as evidenced by the impromptu group singalong to 'The River' when his Greatest Hits album was played. Wilderness Bob showed up so we put more hot dogs on the grill. I spent a long time swapping trail stories with Teach, and old photo albums and registers circled among us all. At long last, we drifted up to the bunk house for sleep.It wasn't gonna happen, not yet. I had just started to brush my teeth when Pirate walked into the yard, bullhorn in hand. "Picture Time!" he hollered ("Cleanup in aisle five," Bassline added.) We all filed down to the main house. Rusty took a picture of each of us to add to this year's wall of hikers. I am hiker #155. 12,000 have come before me since 1982. We were treated to ice cream and conversation before finally succumbing to the pull of sleep. It had been a good day, and it was already nearly the next.I was up and moving by 6:30 out of habit. Wilderness Bob and Live Strong were on their way out; they're headed for Waynesboro today. I made a cup of coffee and wandered around the empty grounds, drinking in the cool morning air. Rusty has recently emerged, and I've spent some time talking with him. He's a bit disappointed with the direction Waynesboro has taken in recent years; he feels that it is no longer hiker friendly. I guess I'll find out for myself tomorrow.