Date: 2005-05-11
From: Rt. 42/Ceres O'Lystery Pavilion

To: Campsite on Garden Mountain
Miles today: 15.7
Weather: few clouds

In early March, I had planned an 87-mile section hike from the southern I-81 crossing (Atkins/Groseclose) to Pearisburg. A February 28 snowstorm followed by strong winds March 1-2 brought not only more snow on top of a small base but drifts which made the hike as planned untenable. I had managed to cover 61 miles, struggling through snow drifts that at times reached mid-thigh. But I decided, wisely as it turned out, to defer hiking up the Chestnut and Garden Mountain ridges.So now after a night at the Bland¢s Big Walker Motel, I¢m ready to complete this missing piece which will finally finish Virginia for me. And I¢ve decided to drive to the end point on Rt. 615 and hitchhike to my starting point at the O¢Lystery Pavilion at the Trail¢s southernmost crossing of Rt. 42. I was on 615 at 6:45 AM wondering if I¢d have to walk the 3 miles along this gravel road to Rt. 42. After 25 minutes, the third car to come along picked me up ¢ a man driving his son to school. Now I¢m at Rt. 42 and I discover I¢m missing a water bottle. Oh great! Either it fell out by my car or in my last driver¢s pickup truck. Well, since my pack is light for one night on the Trail, I¢ve packed a quart of liquid gatorade so I guess I¢ll have enough liquid.Most traffic was going the wrong way on 42 when a car pulled out of 615 starting to turn the other way until the driver rolled down his window and asked where I was going. ¢The other way¢ ¢Well, I¢ll take you¢ I certainly appreciated his willingness to drive roundtrip about 30 miles out of his way. On top of that, he also gave me his mostly-full Dannon water bottle. Now that¢s a Trail Angel! My benefactor was a PhD student at Virginia Tech. He and his girlfriend hike the Trail occasionally and try to help hikers.I¢m certainly grateful for an 8:15 start on a day of hitchhiking. At the picnic area were a party of two men and party of two women camping. I talked to both of them before starting up (and I mean up) the Trail; I was faced with an immediate steep climb up steps and then dirt path, followed by more gradual switchbacks. Before the long climb up Chestnut Ridge, I have two 500-600¢ up-and-downs preceding a smaller up and down.The dense fog of early morning was gradually dissipating promising a sunny but perhaps too hot a day. Since yesterday was a nero day, I moved slowly to start but still made the 2.1 miles to Knot Maul Shelter in about 50 minutes. At the shelter were Maniac and Eagle Eye who had stayed there last night and hadn¢t moved on for the day yet. Maniac, a recent college graduate, had a mild-mannered appearance that belied his Trail Name which emanated from his being a denizen of Maine (I guess it¢s Maineiac). Eagle Eye, older but young-looking, was between jobs. When I told them of my plans, they expressed interest in my offer for a ride back to Damascus for Trail Days. ¢That is, if we can keep up with you¢ I told them at their ages, having hiked from Springer,I should be the one keeping up with them. Of course, their late morning rising could present an issue. They gasped when I told them I¢d arise at 6 tomorrow. So we¢ll see. Nice guys, so I hope we can work this out I thought as I left the shelter.Naturally, I¢m comparing this hike to my recently-completed stretch in Tennessee. Some similarities, some differences. Not as many rhododendron, not as many wildflowers but there are a fair amount of violets. Open forest which seems leafier than Tennessee but I haven¢t gained sufficient elevation yet. After the second 600¢ climb of the day up Lynn Camp Mountain, I was hungry but put off eating until I¢d reach the Forest Service road which marked the beginning of the Chestnut Ridge ascent. At the top of Lynn Camp Mt., I met a middle-aged hiker named Doc enjoying a cigarette on a break. He¢s a veterinarian¢s assistant. While I was finishing lunch at the USFS road, Doc caught up. He doesn¢t have a map or guide so he was asking me about the coming segment and decided to take a break there himself. He started at Springer but upon hearing I was a section hiker, he expressed admiration for how section hikers have to meet the challenge of adjusting their bodies to trail conditions every time they take to the trail. I certainly enjoyed hearing that!Now it¢s the 1,900¢ ascent up Chestnut. The first mile was steep but I followed my usual MO ¢ slowing down if necessary but not stopping. And when I reached the open summit with the rolling grassy fields I felt gratified and also vindicated in my decision to forgo this section last March. For now, I could follow the Trail along the beaten path in the grass but the near absence of blazes meant that in the unbroken, deep drifty snow of March 2, I¢d have been lost. I guess I could have guessed which direction the Trail proceeded but the whiteness of the snow can be very disorienting.So I really enjoyed the walk along the fields of the ridgecrest. The 4,400¢ elevation means cooler temperatures which, along with the dissipation of the early morning humidity, makes for a pleasant atmosphere. The possible thunderstorms in the forecast likely won¢t materialize from the look of the sky. Views of mountains abound in all directions. At the one water source 1.8 miles short of Chestnut Knob Shelter, I filled up but also began drinking my Gatorade. The Trail proceeded through some trees before emerging out in the open again. Then, I saw the shelter atop a knoll. What a great location for camping, for sunrise and sunset.But it¢s only 2:15 when I¢ve arrived so I¢ll hang around a while, dry my feet, socks, and bandannas, and cook dinner. 2 problems with this shelter: damp, musty smell and likelihood of a mouse problem, something I discerned even before reading the register entries which confirmed my suspicions. I cooked inside and ate outside, brushing away the flying insects when the breezes failed to sufficiently to do the same.Nearly ready to move on when Maineiac and Eagle Eye arrived. Good ¢ looks like our paces are compatible. They said they¢d hike beyond me tonight to make up for my early rising. Then the 2 guys from the O¢Lystery Pavilion arrived ¢ Tapeworm and Nameless ¢ who are heading to Jenkins Shelter tonight. They had passed Doc who offered them some vodka.During the steep descent to Walker Gap I met 4 SOBOers. The first two were hiking partners but one was ahead of the other; the latter admitted he was having a tough day. I was talking to the 4th at Walker Gap when Tapeworm and Nameless appeared. This is the water source for the next several miles so we all refilled. Then it¢s up to the Garden Mountain ridge after a PUD over a knob.Garden Mountain ¢ the name connotes images of flowers and/or bushes like laurel or rhododendron, perhaps in a grassy setting on a gentle forgiving slope. The reality was a rock-strewn up-and-down stretch which reminded me of Peters Mountain in Pennsylvania. Northern Harrier had told me how the elevation profile was deceptive in that the rockiness made for constant ups and down. Granted, this was not the White Mountains and we¢re not talking about large ascents like I did in NC/TN or even the Chestnut Knob ascent. But my least favorite walking is on small and medium-sized rocks which is what I faced this late afternoon. The mountain takes its name from the ¢garden¢ views of the valley, nothing on the mountain itself.Both sets of guys behind me passed me but they also took rest breaks which I did not do so I passed them. After the 2-hour point from leaving Chestnut Knob Shelter, I began looking for a campsite and found a flat area with views of both sides of the ridge that was sufficiently large for my tent and did not have rocks or roots ¢ just leaves and dead branches. Speaking of dead branches, the whole of Garden Mountain was a fire trap. Lots of dead trees both on the forest floor and still standing. This is a Wilderness Area and thus not subject to much maintenance. All 4 guys passed me at my campsite. Maineiac and Eagle Eye will camp a little further on. After more than an hour, Doc came along. He claims to like or at least accept night hiking. He kept hinting about how far he had to go, how would he get to Trail Days, what was the hiking like between here and Bland. Every time I¢d reach for my map or guide, he¢d say ¢you don¢t have to do that - I hate to bother you¢ He¢s also almost out of water. Makes me wonder how he can exclude maps/guides and run out of water but still carry vodka! Well, it¢s HYOH but accept the consequences. But what the heck ¢ we all have our idiosyncrasies and we¢re all subject to bouts of irresponsibility. I hope he reaches Jenkins before it¢s too dark.Stayed up for the sunset and then it¢s time for bed. Cooler now, but unlike the first week of my hike in NC/TN, there¢s no need for long pants or even my jacket. The bugs are still annoying but they¢re part of God¢s creation! Long day but I¢m in good stead for tomorrow.