Date: 2007-09-18
From: Pass Mountain Hut (SNP)

To: Big Meadows Wayside
Miles today: 20.3

I've figured out how to best describe Shenandoah National Park. Though yes, the illusion of wilderness is shattered and it is very touristy, at least the park service acknowledges this and makes the best of it, especially for hikers.For instance, in SNP, hikers have the option to stay at regular shelters (free), or campsites (also free), and even though the Waysides are a little pricy for me, they are very comfortable and accommodating. The significant difference in expensive lodging (compared with the Whites/AMC) is that for your money the AMC offers a showerless bunkhouse, and simultaneously manage to ruin the uninterrupted aesthetic view of the landscape above treeline; while the SNP maintains full-blown hotels with bars and showers and food you can buy at any reasonable time. In the Whites, there's the undeclared sense of urgency for the thru-hiker to 'compete' with other thrus (i.e., first come first selected) to get the touted 'work-for-stay' privilege at the huts. The reward for winning one of the few nightly slots might be a chance to sleep on a table or floor and free food once the paying guests are served. Otherwise, cough up $70 or ship out. Raining outside, well, tooooo bad. In my case, I slept in an area called the 'dungeon'. Sounds appealing doesn't it. Oh well, part of the experience.It's not fair to compare Shenandoah's wildlife to the Whites, because the Whites (especially the Presidentials) are above treeline. However, the SNP people should be congratulated for keeping the wildlife so populous around so many visitors. Sometimes it's actually a little weird to have deer or rabbits or whatever, not be afraid of you, and linger around as you calmly photograph it or simply sit and observe their unhurried, unthreatened behavior for a few moments. And they seem to be everywhere. And no cages or other confinements. Priceless.The downside of course, is that you cross Skyline Drive every 10 minutes and never really get away from the notion that it's designed for tourists -- motorized tourists. But here the hikers and tourists seem to co-exist. I don't sense any competition or tension for food or space or anything. Actually, many tourists will approach a hiker with the standard set of questions, making the hiker somewhat of a celebrity, even if only short-lived.The upside at SNP: the AT actually covers the peaks and interesting points, while Skyline Drive offers limited elevation access to the trail and views. In the Presidentials, the AT serves the same purpose as Skyline Drive and side trails provide access to actually see the peaks. This makes the AT easier, but less interesting. Whatever.Due to it's close proximity to the Eastern Seaboard, the SNP will always have to deal with hoards of people from all walks of life, each with varying needs. But at least the park officials seem to understand why people go hiking. Just my opinion.Finally, the views in the Whites on a clear day are unparalleled. No question about that. But for an overall hiking experience for a broader range of hiking abilities which includes much more than the views (peaceful environment, not worrying about where you will stay, scary accents/descents, etc) the SNP wins hands-down. Challenging but not overwhelming. A genuine 'walk in the woods'. Now onward to the last great National Park for a southbounder -- the great Smoky Mountains. It just keeps getting better and better. Oops, getting ahead of myself, I still have one more fabulous day in the southern most section of the Shenandoah Park ridgeline. So without a doubt I know my day is going to be positively wonderful, ... and I sincerely hope your day will be equally as wonderful.Thanks for reading.   ~ Dr Jekyll (Obie)PS:   loaded up many more pictures from the first few days of the hike (July 3-6). Some may be out of order cause I couldn't figure out how to rearrange in TJ. Sorry