Date: 2014-09-15
From: Thoreau Spring

To: Baxter Peak Katahdin mile 2185.3
Miles today: 1.0
Weather: overcast clouds

Baxter Peak - KatahdinThoreau Spring mile 2184.3 - Baxter Peak mile 2185.31 mile 0 to go! The clouds remained low at dawn, despite the promising weather forecast. Schedules changed, Ibex & Pace Car decided they could stay to summit. They wanted it as badly as I did. Well almost. A scramble of organizing for the 2nd attempt occurred, & we drove back out to the park & were on the trail by 10:00am. Whew! On a mission, we strode up through the forests, past the falls, and into the ever enlarging path of rocks. (Pace Car had set quite the pace)! We began to meet people descending due to the icy wind then met Trippy & Cowboy (leap frogged w/ them lots) coming down. They had already summited as they had left at 3am in an attempt to see the sunrise! Unfortunately Mother Nature was less than obliging and they had had to deal w/ ice up there as it was quite cold. As we were progressing upward, the clouds lifted and there before us was "the greatest mountain", with many mountains surrounding it, & the valleys peppered w/ lakes & ponds. Wow, This is what we came to see! See picsAt tree line, the wind stung us w/ her icy whip. We added our layers and continued up, now somewhat confident-ish of the blazed path. The sun broke through clouds to warm us. We looked up and were amazed at what we climbed yesterday! Unbelievable! See pics. Our spirits soared w/ the absolutely stunning scenery that extended out in every direction we looked. See pics. Onward we pressed. The clouds came and went as we ascended, the conditions continually improved. We reached the Tableland and saw the expanse we missed yesterday. See pics. Oh my gosh I had no idea the extent of what was here. The second rise to the peak seemed so far distant! Although I have seen pictures of "the sign", I specifically didn't look at other pictures of the trail so it could be a first time treat. What a treat it was! We walked to Thoreau Spring, paused, then proceeded. I felt a bit drawn to the peak and lit out ahead of Ibex & Pace Car as the sky variably darkened once again. The sandy grit trail littered w/ smaller boulders changed to a tumble of medium sized boulders now arranged in stairway fashion (could tell MATC had been here ) the duration of the walk. The path steepened a bit and knife's edge trail & Pamona peak were clearly visible, but I couldn't be sure which was Baxter Peak. I continued on, trying to determine what my predominant emotions were- happy, sad, victorious, proud, pleased, bummed? I analyzed each and tossed them to the side and thought, none of the above. So what then? How could I just spend 5 months getting here and not realize an enormous emotional something? I kept walking. I then saw "the sign" in profile view 100 yards or so away.(see pic) A lump rose in my throat & the surrounding scenery melted away. I continued the approach to face it head on and I just smiled at this beautifully disheveled sign, then felt overwhelmingly honored to be in its shabby, worn presence & felt welcomed into the ranks of all the thousands of thru- hikers over the decades who have walked the walk! It was a joyous feeling for me & no need for tears. I was perhaps also relieved that I was able to complete the walk w/out sickness or injury nor loss of interest or faith in this magical trail. I took a picture of the sign and sat next to it waiting for Ibex & Pace Car, reflecting on the last 5 absolutely phenomenal months this trail has given me. Meanwhile, a heavy dark cloud settled overhead w/ the sun's rays behind it. See pic. (Not sure why it chose that moment but it looked pretty cool.)While waiting, I chatted w/ a really nice gentleman from Cambridge, MA, (we have him to thank for the group pictures) enjoying relaying to him what a charmed, wonderful walk this had been. Fortunately, he seemed genuinely interested as I prattled on & certainly understood the bitter sweetness of the hike coming to an end. When Ibex & Pace Car arrived, of course there were congrats for all, pictures, a wonderful banner from The Goose revealed(see pic), a champagne toast (see video eventually), (see pics) and lunch (very appropriately - 1/2 of my Baxter peak mac n cheese w/ lobsta) huddled behind rocks to avoid the icy wind. As Ibex put it, tuna from a packet never tasted so good. 4 pm, time to leave, we each walked at our own pace back to Thoreau spring, each I think in our own happy place gazing out over the plateau. We had not divulged what summiting had meant to each. At the spring, of course I had to sample the water...tasted like granite. Duh, it seeps out from underneath a boulder. We continued down the boulder field, even more confident in our steps as we were now old pro's at this mountain & decided to watch the sunset at just above tree line as a perfect end to this tremendous day. see pics. The walk continued through twilight to dark, the additional mile + w/ the headlamps. See pic. We gazed at the stars from an opening in the trail, admiring the depth & quantity of stars. We signed out of the register at 9:00 pm. At the car, we snacked on Pace Car's homemade salsa, gazed at the stars some more, they celebrated w/ a beer -yuck. Back to the hotel @ 10:30 - well past curfew time. The day, the summit, the hike is done. I am definitely one of many that won.All for now,Red Robin