Date: 2004-03-26
From: Hot Springs, NC

To: Erwin, TN
Miles today: 68.0
Weather: scattered clouds

3/22/04 MondayZero day in Hot Springs. And with a name like Hot Springs you'd expect a spa to be in town. So not to disappoint you, yes, there is a spa, and yes, I went and soaked for an hour in tub #5, the best seat in the house because it's located at the junction of the two rivers in town so as you sit and soak in the hot mineral water you can watch the rivers converge.The rest of the day was more mundane, giving time to laundry and buying food for the next few days. Once again, dinner at Elmer's was superb, four courses again, and filling. Of course, staying two nights in a row in town is expensive, after paying for lodging and meals (the spa was surprisingly cheap, actually), and having hostelled two days ago as well, I should cut back on my expenses. But I know that coming up ahead in a few days is Miss Janet's hostel, the Kincora hostel, then Damascus. Ahh, sweet decadance to look forward to. I'm trying to budget my trip at $2,000, but I'll probably come in a little over that. Or a lot over that, if I keep staying in towns and papering myself with good food....The problem with food as a hiker is that you need around 6-7,000 calories a day, but it isn't practical (in terms of weight and space) to carry more than 4,000 calories a day, which comes out to about two pounds of food per day. When you get to towns you need to gorge yourself on high-fat foods like ice cream and pasta (and just about everything else, really) because otherwise your body will start burning muscle to get the calories needed to survive after long days of strenuous exercise. So towns are both necessary and a bane - eat to live, spend money to eat.3/23/04 TuesdayUgh, why are towns always in the valley, so you have to climb out of them after stuffing yourself? This morning I gorged on almond pancakes, homemade granola, and canteloup, and then headed out, of course with a pack heavy with food for the next four days. What do I carry? Here's a list: 6 packs of instant oatmeal for breakfast (varied flavours, eat two at a time), 8oz Monterey Jack cheese, 6 whole wheat bagels, jar of peanut butter, honey bear for lunch (2 bagels per lunch, smothered in PB & H), 6 Snickers bars for snacks, some gorp someone gave me, 2 boxes of mac & cheese, a Liptons rice meal, and a pound of tofu for dinner, hot chocolate mix, hot apple cider mix, Gatorade mix, and a clove of garlic and a jar of crushed red pepper for seasoning (if I eat ramen noodles it's great to mix garlic, pepper, and a big scoop of peanut butter in with it for a spicy peanut sauce). That's 8 pounds of food for four days - which is typical, but practically doubles my pack weight, and isn't fun to carry up those steep hills out of the town valleys.The Trail left town along the French Broad River, following it as it climbed for about two miles, then crossed to the next ridge, and I was on my way. I almost hiked twenty miles today, but stopped at 19.6 miles where there was a shelter.Today MoonPie kicked ahead, doing more miles and passing the shelter where I'm staying. She's trying to get to where she'll be picked up to surprise her father on his birthday, so she'll be off the Trail for three days, and behind me. After hiking with her for two weeks it's strange being without her, but I hope we'll meet again, on the Trail, or after it.3/24/04 WednesdayAnother long day, and this time with an early start. I cooked up some oatmeal for the first time on the Trail, and was hiking by 6:30. I took it easy all day, hiking slowly and taking several breaks. The walk was easy until about mile fifteen - then I hit a huge hill, 1,000' climb over a mile. ALong the way was an old barn, the ruins of three old log cabins, and a beautiful cascading waterfall, so the views were astounding, but it was a tough climb nontheless.Earlier, the Trail passed over a long exposed ridge, with an immense amount of stonework to make up the path as it climbed up and down over outcropping boulders. Just after the ridge I heard a shout, "Are you wearing a kilt?" Two girls on vacation, Steph and J.R., were camped on the side of the Trail. We chatted for a bit, and then as I headed off up the Trail they shouted after me, asking for a picture. I agreed, in exchange for one in return. Ah, the beauty of a kilt!At the shelter tonight are Pa Kettle and Fireball, and several hikers who have been ahead of me for a while: Pilgrim Soul, Lulu, Redbeard, and Tell It Like It Is. I'm ahead of the main crowd, which isn't necessarily a good thing. This isn't a race - I should try to slow down before I'm hiking all alone. I plan on taking a day off at Kincora Hostel, and maybe again in Damascus, so that may help people catch up with me again.3/25/04 ThursdayUgh! Too many long-mile days in a row - my feet are beat. They feel pounded-on, and just plain sore. I guess it doesn't help that I keep kicking roots and rocks - I'm too busy watching the scenery to pay attention to the trail. Well, I plan on short days tomorrow and the next day, so I hope that helps make my feet happy.I hiked alone all day, leapfrogging Fireball and few times, and chatting a bit with Tell It Like It Is at lunchtime. The shelter tonight is empty so far (4:30), with some section hikers, Tigger and BB, camping nearby, but I expect at least Fireball to join me this evening.The shelter is built of cinderblocks, a first so far. Along with a corrugated tin roof, it feels odd, like a farm building, after being used to wood and stone. Maybe the cinderblocks are because this is called No Business Shelter (I'm not kidding!).There was a slight diversion of the Trail today, since the Forest Service was doing some burning at the top of a mountain the Trail passed by. I didn't see any fire or smoke, but the Forest Service road I hiked along sped up my pace up the mountain, and was level, so my feet felt good on it.Ahh, more people rolling in: Pa Kettle, Redbeard, and Tell It Like It Is, as well as Fireball. Happy group of people, heading into Erwin, TN, tomorrow.