Date: 2004-06-15
From: Gravel Spring Hut

To: Menassas Gap, VA55
Miles today: 21.6

I started very early because my plans were to hike close to 20 miles today and head a mile off trail into Linden, VA before the post office closed. The morning walk had a dewey wetness that suggested a humid afternoon. I spotted a sleepy bear making his way down from a tree near a road crossing.As I was leaving the park, I spoke with Aussie, a man from, you guessed it, Australia, who had to take an 11 day leave from the trail due to illness. He is heading south to Waynesboro to make up for all he missed. As we were talking, Hoover and Jitterbug passed. I eventually caught up with them and they offered me a ride to Linden's post office from Manassas Gap.Accepting this offer was both good and bad. I had a full pack and they were slackpacking. I had already walked five miles prior to meeting them. This would extend my hike to 21 miles. Most importantly, the heat was rising.After the park ends, the steep climbs begin again. And the low altitudes offered no relief from the oppressive heat. I drank constantly. Fortunately, I found trail magic in the form of Capri-Sun drinks right out of Chester Gap.Hoover also pointed out the blackberry bushes that strewn the trail. Nice treat. As I climbed ahead of the Benders up some switchbacks, I stunned a small black bear, possibly a cub. He was so incredibly cute as he sped away up the trail--jet black with perfectly round ears on a head too big for his body.Later, I saw an ornithologist recording bird songs. I took the opprortunity to ask her about a bird we were eager to identify. I described the double note song "trill, trill, trill" as it descends a chromatic scale. Aren't you glad I didn't ask readers about this? I have no other way to describe it. She knew instantly that it was an indigo bunting and pulled out her field guide to show me a picture of a stunning, almost electric, blue bird with the hint of black on its wings. I had seen it in the Shenandoahs but was unable, like the bears, to capture a picture. But I was much obliged to her for this information since a few thru-hikers, not just me, were wondering what kind of bird made a noise like a toy whistle.Trudging ahead, we finally arrived at the Jim and Molly Denton Shelter. This was my original destination before meeting the Benders because Baltimore Jack described some back route to town from here in whiteblaze.net. The Benders and I took a breather. There was a cold shower off to the side. I soaked myself--instant relief that lasted me a whole five minutes. Just enough time to don my boots again.After one last climb through an open meadow, which would have been picturesque and pleasant if not for the relentless sun glare, and after getting lost briefly as I descended some loose rock, I arrived at Manassas Gap in time to congratulate the Benders for finishing their hike for the year. They dropped me at the post office well before 5 pm (I did 21 miles in 10 hours--heh, heh) and picked up my packages.Then the real Trail Magic began. My sister (another one - not this journal's transcriber) works with someone who knows someone's sister-in-law, whose next door neighbor's step father heard that I was on the trail and wanted to offer me a place to stay. Okay, the connection wasn't really that complex but, none-the-less, neither my sister nor I had met my hosts for the evening.Regardless John and Cindy K greeted me with a welcoming warmth that permeated comfort and friendliness. They made me feel immediately at home providing me my own bathroom, a cushy bed (remember, I've been sleeping on the thermarest for 8 or 9 days), and an incredible dinner that aimed to please both my seafaring and carnivorous appetite (steak, crab cakes, potato salad). I thought of Hawk, Quest, and Catdog for a few minutes and wondered how they were. But that soon passed.John and Cindy had been reading my journals to keep abreast of my whereabouts. They discovered I liked blackberry shakes and took me to Front Royal for a tour and an ice cream stop. I felt blessed.Although I had planned to stay only one night so that I may spend some days in Harpers Ferry, they offered me the place for as long as I'd like.I'm sure you can guess what I decided to do.