Date: 2005-03-21
From: Carter Gap Shelter (NC)

To: Rock Gap Shelter (NC)
Miles today: 12.1
Weather: broken clouds

Day 103/20Start: Carter Gap ShelterFinish: Rock Gap ShelterMiles: 12.1Weather: cloudy but warmToday was my first day hiking with Jason and Trey and boy did they pick a good time to come out. After hiking for about five miles, we encountered the most fantastic oasis on the trail to this point. Out of the woods we heard the sound of a radio and smelled all sorts of strange foods. Around the next corner we found an incredibly large setup with a "big top"-style tent, a RV, a saw blade grill and tons and tons of food. Berry and Terry from Rainbow Springs campground along with Gatorade and Fishin' Fred were hosting an AYCE burrito fest. These guys are planning on being there to feed hikers until Trail Days. I personally had three burritos, two oranges, and two pieces of toasted raisin bread. The food was so good!After the food we had to climb up Albert Mountain, which is easily the steepest quarter mile of the trail to this point. I wasn't sure whether the mounds of food would help or hinder my performance in climbing Albert, but it ended up helping. The view from the top of Albert was fantastic and the hiking the rest of the day was easy. My Achilles tendon was feeling pretty good today, but its still a bit tender.Over dinner and fire time we decided that the best plan for getting into Franklin to eat "the best pizza on the trail south of New York" was to walk 6.4 miles down the road next to the shelter to pick up Trey's car so we could have a ride in the morning. So Trey, Jason, DuBoius and I (Beartracks declined) walked along the road for the next couple of hours to the car and then drove back to the parking area one-tenth of a mile from the shelter. So, we'll sleep in tomorrow and then go pig out. Anniversary Recollection: I vividly remember my senses being enlivened as I approached the festivities of the aforementioned trail feast. I felt like Yogi the bear smelling out the strange sounds and hearing the foreign noise. But when rounding the corner to the sight of big tents, the RV, the spread of food and the smiles, I felt no need to be sneaky like Yogi. It was obvious that these guys were here to serve and they did so without reservation. DuBois somehow found a way to connive one of the trail angels into making a special plate for him pure DuBois, cordially pressing those who go the extra mile to make it two while theyre at it. I remember how Jason and Trey were not nearly as excited about the feast as the rest of us. Only being their first day on the trail, they had no cravings for such trail delicacies. After climbing Albert Mountain, I met one of the most negative people of the entire hike. Walking Home was from Maine and he had an obviously well-rehearsed way of introducing people to his clever name by saying Im& Walking Home. This guy had hiked most of the trail in 1981 (although he would make it sound like he thru-hiked unless you pressed him on the subject) and he was thoroughly disappointed with the changes that have occurred. When meeting him on Albert, Walking Home made me almost fall off the fire tower in laughter when he, in the same breath, pontificated The old trail is out there somewhere, boys& Im just trying to find itand then pulled his cell phone out of his pocket and called home.Trey, Jason and I went to look at the second largest Yellow Poplar in the world, only a short walk from the shelter. The tree was made much the spectacle by a fence that encircled it, leaving a cleared radius of thirty feet around the poplar. The tree was certainly large, but it looked like time and short proximity to the nearest road had taken its toll. The grey, graffiti-soaked tree looked sad and I was sad for it. I climbed around on its base for a while, trying to let myself know that it still had usefulness in the world. My efforts did not significantly change my perception, and I walked away sensing the gloomy nature of the corralled attraction. The burritos only wetted our appetite and after dinner we were craving more real food. This led to our idea of hiking down the road to get Treys car. DuBois was giddy with the anticipation of pizza and the enjoyment of hiking down the road by moonlight. The joy was incredible and the half-light made our quickened pace feel incredibly fast. Dubois talked about how this experience reminded him of growing up in rural Maine, where he was expected to walk everywhere and where he often found himself on similar dirt roads late at night. For the first time, but certainly not the last, DuBois said something along the lines of Isnt this the balls! Here we are walking down some dirt road at night in the middle of NOWHERE North Carolina! We have no IDEA where we are! Were just walking to get this car so we can drive into a town tomorrow to get pizza. This is the f-in balls!DuBois loved the concept of adventure, no matter how small. He loved crossing roads and looking down them both ways as far as he could. The mystery of what was beyond that last turn or horizon never seemed to grow boring with him. DuBois had incredible enthusiasm for such wonderfully simple aspects of the hike and of life in general and for this I really enjoyed his company.