Date: 2016-08-19
From: Monson, ME / Shaw's Lodging 

To: Cloud Pond Lean-to
Miles today: 19.1

Aug 19, 2016 - After another serving of Poet's immensely satisfying breakfast food, it was time to get back to trail. The seven of us (Peach, Wheels, Jingle, Sweets, Legs, Verge and myself) had a plan to summit on Thursday, August 25 very early in the morning (not necessarily to catch the sunrise, but just to beat out the day hikers and have the summit to ourselves for a bit). We would push to get through the 100 mile wilderness in 5 days and arrive at Abol Bridge on August 23, which is positioned immediately outside the boundary for Baxter State Park (BSP). Then, extremely early on the 24th, we would each cross the boundary into BSP to register for one of the 12 coveted camping spots at the Birches Lean-to. It would only be a 10 mile hike from Abol Bridge to the Birches and would set up our summit day very nicely. On the morning of the 25th, we would only have the 5 mile hike up to the summit and, of course, the hike back down (which was not to be underestimated). Appropriate celebrations would follow in nearby Millinocket, ME on the evening of the 25th where we all have bunks reserved at the AT Lodge. Over recent years, there has been a lot of negative back and forth between BSP and thru hikers. BSP has a very strict policy of wilderness first and recreation second. While there are certainly thru hikers who abuse BSP's rules (Scott Jurek, for instance, who sprayed champagne all over the summit when he completed his record breaking thru hike), most thru hikers want to be as respectable as possible to something as revered as Katahdin. So, even though there are some thru hikers who give the rest of us a bad name, BSP does a very poor job of making their regulations and logistical options known to thru hikers. For example, if I don't get a spot at the Birches (it's first come, first served on the day of), I can either hike several miles into the park and try to yogi a spot at the full Katahdin Stream Campground or hike a grueling 20 mile round trip summit from Abol Bridge to Katahdin and back down. Neither of those are desirable options, which is why getting a spot at the Birches is so important. My point is that most thru hikers have no idea about these options and the only reason we know is because we asked everyone and their grandmother. The only employee present to help us at the ATC visitor center in Monson had never done the hike and really had no idea what our options were. That's frustrating. Peach had a great idea to publish an article to the Appalachian Trials website detailing complete guidelines for a thru hikers last 15 miles. Anyway, AJ gave us a ride back to the trail head and I set out to start the 100 mile wilderness. The reason it's called the 100 mile wilderness is that for a stretch of 100 miles, there are no resupply options, no towns and very little cell service. We were on our own and had to carry all our supplies for at least 5 days, though it takes some people as long as 13 days to complete this section of the trail. During the first 3 miles of this beautiful day, I passed by 5 ponds and walked through a dense forest of maple, beech, and the dominant white birch, fir, cedar and pine trees. The trail, as it's been through most of Maine, is a layer of decomposing pine needles interspersed with tree roots and rocks on top of a thin layer of topsoil. On either side of the trail, ferns and thick, soft layers of moss are abundant. It's very unique, extremely tranquil and smells delicious.About 7 miles in, I came across a large waterfall called Little Wilson Falls with a deep pool at the bottom. I climbed down the rocks and made my 3rd attempt at fishing. An hour later, I still had nothing to show for my efforts and it was most frustrating. Several miles later, I stopped at a brook with another deep pool to read for a while. I couldn't resist the water, though, so I stripped to my boxers and sat in the pool as I let the small waterfall cascade over my shoulders. It was like a cold version of those fancy pools you find in those tropical places. This was way better. Though most of the day was spent going up and down small hills, I ended my day with our only significant climb in Barren Mountain. I met Goat, Jellydog, Whiplash, Panda and Mumbles at the top where we scaled the old fire tower for some stellar views. I proceeded to the Cloud Pond Lean-to to finish my 19.1 mile day. Chores included the usual: taking a bath in the lake, building a fire and cooking some dinner. Two section hikers arrived and I was immediately impressed by their setup. Though their fishing attempts failed, while I was building a fire, I noticed them gutting and skinning a red squirrel they had shot earlier in the day. Apparently, it's open season all year long on red squirrels. They had a saw for cutting actual firewood and a large pot to cook some gourmet pasta. That's how it's done.