Date: 2004-09-17
From: Katahdin Stream Campground

To: Baxter Peak, Terminus of Appalachian Trail
Miles today: 5.2

In a nutshell: the last five miles are probably the toughest miles of the whole Trail. But to experience the elation and fulfillment of reaching that peak is worth every grueling step of way. I have no doubt in my mind that I will return to this place again to renew the excitement.We all woke up early to reach the gate. It was raining, but I would expect nothing less for my last day on the Trail. No one had specific information about the weather today but I was determined to finish before the weekend. My sisters, Maria and Sharon, and I all hoped to traverse Knife¢s Edge as well, but aborted the plan when we felt the winds.At the kiosk, I could tell that Jalan Jalan had headed up early. Bones was right in front of us with his full pack on his back. We moved slowly though and that was fine with me. At one point, I let Maria lead so we could travel at her pace. At the Katahdin Stream Falls, she started to negotiate a rock hop to the other side of a flowing river. It wasn¢t until we reached the other side that we noticed there was a bridge we could use. I¢m so used to crossing rivers, I didn¢t even look¢duh!The climb to Baxter Peak on the Hunt Trail can be divided into four parts. The first part is very easy and a mild grade. When you cross the Katahdin Stream Falls, the second part through woods, gradually gets steep. The boulders on the path also gradually get larger. But we all felt this was easy too. The third part, however, increases in difficulty dramatically, becoming more of a climb and scramble than a hike. We had to work our way over and up sharp, rough rocks. Sometimes there were bars and hooks to assist us and sometimes we relied on the traction of our boots to hold us. Either way, you could slip and fall ten feet and break something. Nice adrenaline rush along with dread at the thought of descending this way later. The fourth part, called Table Land, is fairly flat till you reach the peak and the sign.The rain stopped for us somewhere in the second part but the clouds were still thick. Two women were working their way down as we headed up. They told us that they had spent the night just below tree line because it took them until 7:30 the night before to reach the peak. One of the women, Terry, had bad knees and was making her way down slowly with one pole. She is starting her southbound thru-hike. The other lady, spry and smiling, was celebrating her 83rd birthday and appeared to have plenty of energy for the remains of the day. How these two managed to get a night¢s sleep in this rain on a cold mountain is beyond me. But we wished them salutations regardless.81 and his wife, Jane, caught up with us as we struggled through the third part. I would say that this section, only a mile at most, is harder than the Mahoosuc Notch and Arm together. Sharon, who has done Knife¢s Edge, believes it is harder than that section as well.At the Gateway and the beginning of the fourth part, the wind blew in strong gusts and the clouds flew over us. Visibility was nil. I actually didn¢t mind not seeing anything. I didn¢t want to know how far I had to go. I went ahead of Sharon and Maria till we couldn¢t see each other in the clouds. There were times the clouds would break and we could glimpse a view below or see each other and wave.I came across Bones as he descended and gave him a congratulatory hug. He told me it was wicked windy up there. Shortly I saw Jalan Jalan and Just Bob. Congratulations and well wishes all around.As I forged ahead at a surprisingly leisurely pace, the clouds cleared again and I could see the terminus sign. I turned around to spread my arms in triumph for my sisters hiking fifty feet back. They told me later they could see me on the ledge smiling with my arms extended and the sign behind me. Then the clouds returned and they never saw me again until my journey was over.I reached Baxter Peak alone and just stood there. I don¢t recall any strong emotions hitting me. There were no sudden realizations. I know that I was tired and pleased to be at the summit at last, as if I were the first to finish a day hike. Sharon arrived second, gave me a congratulatory hug, and took pictures. By now, the various day-hikers on the peak could tell something was up and took a look. Some had met me on the trail the day before and gathered round. Maria showed up and we worked on the champagne bottle. 81 arrived. He must be thrilled. After 24 years of hiking this trail, he is finally done. As I enjoyed picture moments with the sign, the crowd applauded me. But that is because I pulled a prank (see next page).The sky above us had remnants of blue as a misty web of white pulled apart. We could see impressive ridge lines peaking through cumulus clouds. Everyone would scramble for their cameras. But, too late, the views closed up again and the moment was gone. We were up there for forty-five minutes and the weather still looked bleak. 81 and I got a picture together. Then we all headed down again because the wind was blowing us to pieces and it was cold.I traveled without poles and my knees killed in the end, but I felt much better about scrambling down without them. As we crossed Table Land, the skies, of course, cleared for us while the winds persisted. I could see as far as White Cap. Countless lakes extended all the way to a faded horizon. Unfortunately, I could not see the distinctive silhouette of the Bigelows one last time. I met up with Slips, Grass, Uncle Ben, and Sleeping Beauty making their way toward the top. The wind was still pretty strong so our conversations were quick, ¢Good lucks!¢ ¢Way to go!¢After what seemed like an eternity, we reached the bottom at around 4:30. Mom had taken the car elsewhere. The ranger was kind enough to track her down by calling other gatehouses. So we waited and looked at the now crystal clear view of Katahdin. No wind stirred as we sat there. The grass was dry and there was no indication that it rained that morning.John, a flip-flopper, who had second thoughts about finishing his hike, chatted with us while we waited. He took a spill when he lost his grip on one of the handle bars drilled into the cliff. He sustained no injuries, just pain. He now has to travel down to Harpers Ferry and resume his hike south. I assured him that the south is less technical. I did not tell him that I disliked most of Virginia. But, then again, the weather might be better by now.I bumped into Caterpillar as he headed toward the Birches for the night. I also chatted with Wife and Beater one last time. They told me that they saw Hotrock, Pilot, and Polar and that the trio hopes to summit on Sunday.When we reunited with Mom and got back to the hotel, I discovered that Hawk and Peggy had left me a small bottle of champagne. How they found me was a mystery until I insisted we visit them down at the RV campsite, Katahdin Shadows. My family and I dropped by for a quick visit. Hawk, Peggy and I engaged in lively conversation, happy reminiscence, congratulations, and hugs. They had learned that I was at the Best Value Heritage after picking up Jalan Jalan on the highway. Jalan Jalan had also received a ride to the park gate from my mother earlier. So he knew where we were staying.Hawk is waiting for Catdog, Quest, and Krispy Kritter to arrive and they intend to summit on Tuesday. I wish I could be here with them but I am heading home tomorrow. For now, our destination is dinner before we all collapse from exhaustion. So we left Hawk and Peggy and got some food.And that is all I can say about today.