Date: 2005-05-19
From: Niday Shelter

To: Half mile west of VA Route 624
Miles today: 16.1

DAY 69This day started easily enough. By 7:30 pm we were on the Trail. This has been a day in which the forest really bloomed. Rhododendrons were in bloom all over. We saw lady slippers and mountain laurel. Rocky was in seventh heaven as she was so enchanted by all the flowers. We also saw plenty of wildlife: birds, frogs, a turtle, and a water snake. It was a sunny day as we descended one ridge and climbed another.We walked at a leisurely pace this morning. I took Rocky up to the Audie Murphy monument at the top of the second ridge. I explained the story of this World War II hero, who was the most decorated soldier of that conflict. The monument marks the spot where Murphy was killed in a plane crash. This after all he survived in World War II. Later this morning Rocky found a bandana in the Trail. Somehow, she knew the woman who it belonged to, and she carried it with her. Rocky seems to know everyone on the Trail. The woman¢s husband was waiting for her at the Trail crossing of VA Route 620. Rocky returned the bandana to the owner, who gave Rocky cough drops for her cold. The woman also gave us snacks and water treatment liquid, Aqua Mira, which we were out of. I had gotten a new element for my water filter in Roanoke. However, I have not used it since, as we purify our water with Rocky¢s Aqua Mira. We continued our hike toward Pickle Branch Shelter as the afternoon became overcast. By the time we reached the side trail to Pickle Branch Shelter it was raining heavily, with thunder and lightning. We could have stayed at the shelter (and should have stayed at the shelter). However, I made the decision to keep going and Rocky had no objection despite the fact that we had already walked ten miles today. It was still early afternoon, and my reasoning at the time was that we could walk the additional six, plus, miles to VA Route 624. Once we reached this road I thought we could hitchhike to the Homeplace Restaurant, which we both are looking forward to. I thought we would have time find some indoor place to stay, as it gets dark fairly late at this time of year. This was a bad decision, which I regret tonight. Between Pickle Branch Shelter and VA Route 624 is the Dragon¢s Tooth formation atop Cove Mountain. This is a 1200 foot climb from Pickle Branch Shelter over a four mile distance. Although it is not an especially steep climb, it is a rough trail to the Dragon¢s Tooth, and it seemed to take forever. The weather got worse and the day got darker by the time we reached the Tooth. Dragon¢s Tooth is kind of a phallic symbol of a rock formation. Most hikers pause here and walk the 500 feet or so to the Tooth and look at the view of the surrounding Virginia countryside. If the weather was better, and it was earlier in the day, we would have done so ourselves. However, we just kept going and started the descent on the north side of Cove Mountain.The north side of Cove Mountain is steep. It requires hand holds and a descent using iron bars attached to the rocks. The rocks at this point were wet and slippery. Darkness was approaching. Rocky was exhausted from her cold and the effort of walking 14 miles to this point. I was scared to death for her as she very gingerly, and with a great deal of effort, worked her way down. I should have been in the lead at this point as I was still feeling relatively strong. At the time it never occurred to me, as I have been walking behind Rocky for the past 200 miles. I felt guilty that my bad decision to keep going from the last shelter could have caused her death or serious injury. Eventually to my relief she got past the worst of the descent. However, the Trail was still very rocky and it was slow going. She was obviously nearing her physical limit. I tried to encourage her to keep going. I reasoned that VA Route 624 couldn¢t be too far ahead. Once at the road it was only 0.4 miles to a gas station/convenience store. At the store I hoped we could get information on a place to stay for the night and to dry out. Reaching the Home place restaurant had become a lost cause for today.Eventually Rocky reached her limit. We had come to a wide spot in the Trail that really was barely big enough for both of our tents. I did not argue or push her onward at this point. She said, ¢Enough is enough¢. We hurried to set up our tents before the rain started up in earnest again. Before we were finished the deluge began, with thunder and lightning. Rocky got in her tent mostly dry. However, I was pretty wet by the time my tent was up. The entire bottom of my tent is in water and my air mattress is barely keeping me out of the water.Dinner tonight has been a bag of M&M¢s that we passed back and forth between our tents. We have been talking to each other through the tents to keep our spirits up. Rocky said a prayer for our safety. The thunder and lightning are at the same time. We are in the midst of a serious storm. The thunder is so loud and so close that it has become impossible to talk. Rocky has fallen asleep, I think. I wish Rocky was in my tent with me. I am so worried about her. My feelings for her are becoming more than just that of Trail partners.