Date: 2005-05-05
From: Pickle Branch Shelter

To: Catawba, VA
Miles today: 12.6

Pickle Branch Shelter to Catawba, VAAlthough the day held some of the most spectacular views and features yet, it was a hard day for me.  Fortunately, last night was warmer than the past few, but it was still quite chilly this morning.  The 1/2 mi. from the shelter back to the AT was enough to warm me up though.It was a jagged steep and rocky ridge walk to Dragon's Tooth, an enormous stone monolith protruding from the ridge top overlooking the valley below.  I felt tired and my legs felt unstable and rubbery.  My spirits were also low with Spoonie behind us.  We'd heard that she is having an incredibly difficult time with her feet, and I am very concerned.It felt as though it took forever to get to Dragon's Tooth.  Despite my tired body and sour mood, I had to admit that the rocky knife edge ridge was spectacular.  The vast green valleys and ridges spanned for miles in verdant lush fertility.  In the way that the Eskimos have eighty words for snow, Virginians must have at least as many to describe the various colors of green.  The wild azalea are beginning to bloom on the ridges below 3000 ft, and the Mountain Laurel are just starting to bud.  We did, finally, reach the Tooth.  I scrambled up the huge rock, but almost near the top I got the willies.  I was suddenly agoraphobic so Tom snapped my picture and I scrambled back down.  Usually I love such "death defying" things and would thrill at climbing to the top of the great rock.  I suppose the fatigue and low spirits got to me though, and the thrill wasn't so enticing today.  Tom did climb all the way up though, and I snapped some great pictures.  We had a snack after Tom climbed down, but moved on shortly having gotten chilled by the wind.The next two miles actually were quite nice as we encountered some wonderful trail magic left by '95 hiker "Southpaw."  it was fantastic magic with PB & J sandwiches, homemade confections, sodas and gatorades.  He restocks the cooler daily and is a true trail angel.  The magic came at an especially good spot having just clamored down a steep and rocky descent from the Tooth.The last six miles into Catawba felt like the longest six miles of my life.  The guide book left out information on the entire ridge between VA 624 and Catawba.  We thought it would be level, easy walking when in fact it was more jagged rugged ridge walk.  Just when we though we'd gone up and over the last pointless steep knob and were ready to descend to the valley, there would be yet another pointless steep knob to go up and over.  I felt a little like this is what my own personal Hell might be like:  endless knobs, straight up, straight down.  You know there is a delicious restaurant down in the valley, but you never ever get there.  Just up and down endlessly, legs growing ever more tired, stomach ever more empty, then around the corner, straight up another knob, and so on for eternity.Though it felt like an eternity, we did, FINALLY, reach the road to Catawba.  It was bizarre coming to this particular road because they are doing construction and the parking and staging area is right where the trail comes out.  So, as we were walking down the trail, a bunch of construction workers on their break were just staring at us.  There were just shamelessly watching us like we were two purple elephants dancing Swan Lake forth from the woods in lime green tutus or something.  Fortunately the kind local woman who picked us up knew we were hikers and not purple ballerina elephants, and treated us quite humanely.  We were delivered right to the Down Home B&B.Unfortunately none of the B&B proprietors were home, and we did not have a reservation.  So, we happily sat in a bench under a gazebo in the front yard and waited.  They did arrive home and had room for us tonight.  This was a huge relief for me, and the start of an up turn in my day.  Dave and Judy are extremely hospitable and hiker friendly.After showers and cleaning up a bit, Dave kindly drove us to the PO, then to the Home Place Restaurant for dinner.  We feasted on the best home style Southern cooking you could imagine.  After a quick (but very difficult on out full stomachs) resupply at the country general store, we walked back to the B&B.  I am now clean, warm, have a full tummy and contented heart.  Thankful for this cozy warm bed tonight with predictions for rain.Even though the day was rocky both literally and figuratively speaking, it ended up smooth and happy.  Can't really complain when the path gives a happy ending.   :-)Danger