Date: 2013-04-25
From: Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky Hostel & Outfitters

To: Indian Grave Gap, stealth camp
Miles today: 8.8

The storm kept going last night, and it blew in cold air. Even inside my comfy little cabin the temperature had dropped double digits, and I woke curled in a tight ball. My "Blue Devil" shorts weren't designed for this short of weather. I got up to use the facilities, and the place was jumping with hikers getting ready to take off for the day. I retreated back to my cabin and noticed that cell service had improved greatly overnight. I spent the morning updating trailjournals.com, occasionally stopping to make breakfast (same instant coffee & hot chocolate/granola as always, but hunkered on the porch I felt a little like a caveman over my alcohol stove) and to ask about the check-out time. I milked my 11 a.m. check-out for all it was worth. By then, the sky was clearing, so I ceded my room and went to the front porch area to finish the last updates. By then it was noon. I fixed some BLT wraps (I discovered a box of pre-cooked, no-refrigeration-required bacon at Walgreens, and I grabbed small tomatoes (I plan to transport these in my Crocs), an onion and a bag of lettuce at the grocery), and I was the awe of Uncle Johnny's porch crowd. You would have thought that I had improved upon the invention of the wheel. I must admit, I did feel a little smug. Duct Tape came rolling in, looking like warmed up dog poo. He had tangoed with the norovirus the night before. He informed us that there was a van full of sick hikers headed out way. Everyone took a step back and went for their hand sanitizer. It was time to leave.I loaded up the pack and headed across the bridge spanning the Nolichucky River. I crossed a set of railroad tracks and thought about the movie Stand By Me. I followed the trail as it climbed up. There was a view down over the river and over some small farms that followed along side it. I passed So-Way, Sky Pilot (Chris) and Odette coming from the other direction. They were slack packing and confirmed that noro had come to Erwin. The trail followed small streams with footbridges crossing back and forth over the top of them. Everything was green and lush. Primrose bushes (no blooms) were everywhere. When I got to Curley Maple Gap Shelter there was a group of hikers who were stopped for the day. They, too, just wanted to get out of Erwin before they got sick. One of them asked me if I felt okay. The power of suggestion is a funny thing. Did I feel okay? Honestly, I felt a little weird. But was that the onset of noro? Was I dehydrated? Was it the pollen? Was it all in my head? Whatever it was, I didn't want an audience. They tried to convince me to stay, but I kept moving. I came to Indian Grave Gap. There was promise of a camping area and nearby water. When I arrived, there was another tent set up and two guys hovering about. I had hoped to have the place to myself, but I crashed their site instead. They introduced themselves at Grizel and Moose. Apparently I'd met them before, but the thing is, all the guys out here with their bushy beards, sunglasses and wild hair start looking the same. They had met or seen me before. I felt a little guilty for not remembering them, but they were forgiving. I set up my tent, and hiked down the highway to collect water. Once again, the trail emerged on the highway at the TN/NC border; as if neither state really wanted us. You could see the line in the asphalt. I came back and made dinner and chatted with Grizel. He's a really interesting guy. He had worked as a camp counselor in Colorado, and his stories sounded so familiar to mine as a bike tour guide. He started making funny faces and looking over my shoulder. I thought he was trying to be funny. Finally he asked, Is that a fire? I turned around, and my jaw dropped open. The full moon was rising over the hills, and it was the color of flames- a bright, brilliant orange. There were hundreds of tree limbs between us and it, so it looked like a section of woods was on fire. Davy Crockett join out camp. By the time I laid my head down to go to sleep, the moon was so bright that it looked like a car headlight was shining right down onto my tent.