Date: 2003-04-13
From: Asheville, N.C.

To: Asheville, N.C.
Miles today: 0.0

Friday, 11th - Saturday, 12th April-----------------------------------At daybreak Friday, my cough was definitely worse. There was more snow, it was colder than ever, and everyone had difficult decisions to make. We were all at least two days hiking from anywhere, some of us would soon get low on food if we didn't keep moving, others had no dry clothing left. Eight in the shelter decided to stay put in the hope that the cold weather would break. Verity and I couldn't see any sense in that, especially as most of the next two days we would be climbing even higher to Clingman's Dome (alt. 6,600 feet). Even if it did warm up, we didn't see how this much snow would miraculously disappear. So, on with the wet boots (how I hate that), some not-so-dry clothes, a muddy pack, and we were on our way. We got to the next shelter at Silers Bald very early afternoon through snow that was sometimes knee deep, but at least it wasn't snowing. We chatted to "Apple Chillin" (he's from New Chapel, N.C. where apples are a local industry), "Snack Attack" and "Cuss" there, fixed some hot chocolate, and made for Double Spring Gap Shelter, another two miles on, and a worthwhile 7.2 miles for the day. That put us within 11 miles of Newfound Gap and a ride to Gatlinburg. We had one day's food left. Last night was the coldest I've ever known. Same for Verity. Her "monkey woman" fleece was wet and out of commission. My fleece liner was wet and unusable. Our three-season sleeping bags weren't quite up to it. I dozed a few times but didn't sleep much. At times, I kept my face below the small aperture at the head of the sleeping bag to breathe warmer air and reduce my coughing. So only my woolly hat stuck out. On one such occasion, I jolted awake to realise that a mouse was sitting on my head! I felt its little claws through the hat!And so to today. A climb of over 1,000 feet to Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT, an 11 mile day, and then showers, food, and above all, warmth, in Gatlinburg. The sky was blue, mists completely gone! For the first time on the AT, Verity was up first spurring us on for an early start. We didn't have breakfast and were off before 9.00. For the first time in the Smokies, I can say that the scenery was terrific. Early on, the main problem was the large chunks of snow and ice falling from the branches of the conifers hanging over the trail. Getting hit on the ear by one made your head ring. By mid-morning, I had a different problem. I had no energy! After 11.00am, and not too far from the summit of Clingman's, I took my third stop of the morning. A good ten-minute rest and then I resumed the climb. Thirty yards later I had to stop again. At this point I knew I was in trouble. There was nothing at all in my legs. Just then, along came "Cuss" from the previous shelter. I asked him to let Verity know up ahead that I was toiling. A short way ahead was the highest point on the AT on Clingman's to which there is actually road access. At this point, trails go in three directions - one is the AT proceeding round and down the other side of the mountain, another is a track going up the extra 40-50 yards to the spectacular views from the summit, the third leads down to the car park. My new plan was to go down to the car park, look after both packs, let Verity crack on the further 7 miles to Newfound Gap, get into Gatlinburg and come back with a taxi to collect me. When I at last got my pack up to the trail junction, a pow-wow was going on between Verity, "Cuss", "Snack Attack" and "Apple Chillin" who, by this time, had also appeared on the scene. They were already arranging to be picked up by an old friend of "Apple Chillin"'s at the car park for an off-trail day in Asheville. They were confident that we could be squeezed in too.And so here we are in Asheville, thanks to H.E. "Rob" Faught, with me now taking my course of high-powered tablets for "walking pneumonia" which I've been hanging onto since Hiawassee. Today is an off-trail day for us. Tomorrow morning "Rob" has offered to take us all back to Clingman's to resume the hike. Depending on my health, Verity and I may yet go on to Gatlinburg instead to recuperate for an extra day.