Date: 2005-04-16
From: Mountain Moma's Kuntry Store

To: Mountain Moma's Kuntry Store
Miles today: 15.6

Mountain Moma's Kuntry Store15.6 miles (234.8 total miles)Hiker logic is a funny thing. It differs from regular logic in that it involves maximizing your food intake. Last night we thought we were pretty smart in hiking an extra 5 miles, getting us an easy 16 miles away from Mountain Moma's Kuntry Store, where we could indulge in real food. If we hadn't hiked the extra 5 miles, the shelter math told us we'd be 8 miles short of Mountain Moma's tomorrow, making for an 8 mile dash to get there for breakfast (and for good morning coffee for JoAnne). So we hiked the extra 5 miles, planning that today we would hike to the shelter at 15 miles, so we would be a mere mile from breakfast tomorrow. But laying in the shelter last night, I realized the flaw in our logic. Since it was an easy 15 miles, we'd be done in the early afternoon, knowing that a cheeseburger was just a mile below. That wouldn't happen. In case this is all too complicated, the bottom line is that that by hiking the extra 5 miles, we had turned an 8 mile rush for breakfast into a 15 mile rush for cheeseburgers.It seems like every morning I wake up and think it has been the coldest night yet. Last night we had a new low. There was frost on the ground this morning, and on our food bags as I retrived them from the bear cables. We took off at about 7:15, hiking a good 3 miles before we were warm enough to stop for breakfast. It was once again a sunny day, and everything was in springtime bloom. The trail was very easy, and we cranked out 7 miles to the first shelter by 10:00. From there we had one last significant climb, then the long descent into Davenport Gap. We cruised through at a record pace. They say that by the time a thru-hiker is through the Smokies, they have developed their trail legs. I know I didn't feel like it at the beginning of the Smokies, but with the easier terrain and lighter packs, we were unstoppable. We were mowing down seagulls left and right (that is hiker lingo for passing dayhikers). By 1:45 we had finished our 15.6 miles, and we were standing on the dirt road at Davenport Gap. On the dirt road, it is over a mile road walk down to Mountain Moma's. As fast as we were, our feet were feeling the effects of several long days. The downhill was especially bad, pounding away at our feet. We were in such a rush that we didn't take enough time to rest our feet on the way down. As a result, every step was painful. We got to Mountain Moma's completely exhausted. We quickly changed our shirts (so we wouldn't stink up the store quite as bad), and I put on my comfortable sandals. Then we each ordered the "huge cheeseburger". It was delicious. It was worth the long hike down. I am not sure what deficiency my body needs that a cheeseburger fulfills (perhaps it is iron), but it really hit the spot.I am very glad we stopped here at Mountain Moma's Kuntry Store. Part of the fun of long-distance hiking is experiencing the local culture along the way, and Mountain Moma's is quite the piece of Americana. From the 3 junk cars parked next to the satellite dish, to the neon cigarette sign that says "Jesus is Lord", to the Dolly Parton shrine, this is about as local as you get. You cannot sit down outside without a dog or cat jumping into your lap or sleeping at your feet. The shower water smells horrible (like sulfer), but with some soap it got 5 days worth of grime off me. JoAnne says they gave her the same water to drink with dinner (which explains why she suddenly changed her mind and bought a soda). We are sharing a bunkhouse tonight with Birdhouse Bob. We are staying in "Mountain Moma's Honeymoon Suite", which means it is the bunkhouse with fewer dead bugs. Right now Birdhouse Bob is filtering water from the stream so he doesn't have to drink the sulfer water from the fountain. I looked in the mirror this afternoon and saw a skinnier, sunburned face with a bit of a beard. It was different than the old me. I am happy that we are finally getting into a hiking rhythm. I feel like a real hiker again!