Date: 2015-07-19
From: Katahdin

To: Abol Bridge
Miles today: 15.1

"You can heave your spirit into a mountain and the mountain will keep it, folded." -- Annie Dillard in Pilgrim at Tinker CreekI am so glad that I was at Katahdin on Friday. I could not have asked for better weather! Leaving the 15 miles of AT in Baxter State park yesterday, a sign said that Katahdin is arguably the hardest mountain on the trail. While I haven't yet experienced Maryland through most of Maine yet, I'd have to agree! The AT to Katahdin starts off fairly easily from Katahdin Stream Campground where I got a loaner day pack from the ranger station, but as it goes up 4188 feet over 5.2 miles to the summit, it crosses the tree line and then becomes a rock climb rather than a hike. Pictures express this better than I can describe but the rocks began with three places where rebar was fastened into the rock to help climbers and then ascended a vertical spire of boulders where you have to find your own natural hand and foot holds before reaching the Tableland with a summit a relatively easy mile from there. Even with the extreme difficulty of the climb and the even harder descent down the pitch, my spirit was free the day I climbed Katahdin. I felt like I had moved into another world entirely, a beyond-words vista of lakes, low-lying land, and mountains. I had originally thought that I would move from Katahdin right through the remaining 10 miles in Baxter State Park into the 100 Mile Wilderness, but that was way too big a bite to swallow at once. I got shuttled back into Millinocket last night and am truly preparing now for the first large backpacking section in Maine and making some tentative plans for the rest of the state (282 miles total) so that I won't have to do that planning during future rest stops.My two biggest challenges so far have been town/resupply stops and so many people on the trail. I have found the town stops to be rushed and busy with all of the preparation that needs to happen to get on the trail again: food shopping (looking at the guidebook for the next section to decide where to resupply next and about how much food I need to make it there, grocery list making, repackaging food); shopping for consumable personal care products such as toothpaste, hand sanitizer, toilet paper, stove fuel, etc; and repairing or replacing gear (shoe shopping is especially hard on trail because small outfitters in trail towns usually have limited selection and sizes if there is even an outfitter in the town where you need shoes ). Yesterday was a wake up call though when I got turned around on a wet day and ended up waking at least 1.5 miles North before I realized I had gone the wrong way and this morning a new thought crystallized. Like all moments when clarity arrives out of some vague thoughts generally tilted in the right direction but just haven't arrived yet, it seems extremely obvious once it does arrive. Town stops don't have to be so rushed! I really don't have to be anywhere at any specific time nor do I need to be focused on completing 2185 miles right now. If I do end up walking the entire trail this year, fine. If not, fine. Too early to know at this point. Right now I am in Maine. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy gives Maine a 9/10 difficulty rating so I will definitely not suddenly become a Speed Queen. I have learned from previous travels that I enjoy being in a few places for longer periods of time rather than seeing a lot of places but seeing each place for a short time. Thru-hiking, by its nature, tends to lean towards the seeing a lot of places quickly approach to travel. Now I'm seeing Maine and I am happy with that! I was so preoccupied with getting to Millinocket though that I didn't pay enough attention to the gear I would need to make an enjoyable trip through Maine. I didn't bring enough clothes and my 40 degree limit/50 degree comfort sleeping bag may be pushing it too much without at least an additional liner to keep me warm, so I'll have to wait for a box to come from Virginia with more warm things before I start through the 100 Mile Wilderness. The trail is a great teacher in patience although I have been a stubborn and reluctant student.At first I was frustrated with the unique social circumstances that the trail creates. As an introvert who was used to having a lot of personal space before I started North in April, I struggled with the hoards of hikers descending to Springer Mtn, Georgia for a shot at 2000+ miles all having to share resources shelters (crammed in like sardines in water) and water sources. I have been forced to constantly practice meeting people and going through the early small talk/getting-to-know-you stages of friendships and have improved!   Unless you really make a great intention to stick with friends that you've recently made, it is easy to get separated. Even if you're only a day's walk or so apart, if you both keep walking at the same rate you may never run into each other again for quite a while. I was getting to be more at peace with the inconsistent trail meetings supplemented with texting and Facebook. Now with my flip to Maine, it's like the first day of school all over again. Some Southbound thru-hikers are just starting their first days en route to Georgia and people that I hadn't met before have flipped to Maine from various points close to the middle of the trail and are heading back. I am grateful that, so far at least, it's a quiet Sunday here in Millinocket.