Date: 2008-03-20
From: Punchbowl Shelter

To: James River Footbridge
Miles today: 10.5

Our longest hiking day yet, but with the end in sight I don't worry. The winds howled overhead all last night (sounded like a jet engine on full revs) as we hunkered in the back of the shelter, again in the tent. Thankfully, we were just below the top of the mountain so it didn't blow at ground level too much. Started out warm and got cooler throughout with fog rolling in. To describe a typical day, it's get up with the sun at 7am, eat and pack until 9 or so, hike until 2pm or so, relax and clean up/set up until 5pm or so, then eat and clean up, hang the bear bag and get in the tent by 7pm as it gets dark. Usually ready or listened to music/books until 9 or 10 then slept until 7am to start again. In short, lots of activity followed by lots of inactivity to recover for the next days activity. Simple, but it can be very very sweet...Woke up early to the anticipation of finishing. Rain had stopped, but the winds were still roaring. Despite best efforts, still didn't leave until 8:45! In process of getting water, the filter handle broke with no way to repair and still no backup of drops. Make the mistake of just taking the clean liter of water I had, anticipating a spring at 3 miles. Should have put another liter or two of unfiltered water in the bag for lucy and for my emergency supply. Started out with a fast pace and Starlu slackpacking again. Star seemed to know this was it and she finally became the leader I knew she could be, taking the lead and holding it for longer and longer periods. When we reached the point for the spring it turned out to be half a mile down a very steep hills and so we decided to ration our watere until the shelter at 8.6 miles. Probably a good decision but was thirsty along with lucy throughout so wished we had that earlier water. Knew we were close to the finish when we came to a beautiful view from high above of the James River. Still 5 miles to go but mostly downhill now. Starlu seems exuberant, chasing some deer and taking the lead and looking back as if to say - come on fool - let's get out of here to a warm bed. The feet are sore, but all in all feeling very good for the miles we've put in. The boots are a keeper and should be okay for increased mileage later. The plan is to meet Connie at the river corssing right at 2pm so we aim for that, stopping at John's Hollow Shelter for water (both of us tank up), rest and to take off some layers as it's a warm and sunny day. Only 1.7 to go! Lucy and I get in a bot of a scrap as she is annoyingly pawing at me and standing over top of me as I try to put my boots back on. I think she fears that we're staying at this shelter when she thought we were getting out today. We have our little (play) fight, getting out the frustration that each of us feels with the other after such a journey, pack up and move out, with Starlu in the lead wnd finishing with her pack on! Her pack mostly has air-filled ziplocks and toilet paper to make it look good, but she doesn't care, she's all about finishing and LOOKING like she has a full pack. While I'm stoked to be completing this section, my thoughts turn to the bigger picture, with many, many, many miles to go and having to go from this trips average of 8 miles per day to averaging 12 miles a day over 5 months to reach Katadyn by the end of August. My back feels strong (and I did cut back on the Vitamin I), my will is strong and I will not be deterred. Onward we hike with the last 1.7 following a stream out to the river. Again that sound of rushing water soothes as I look forward to all that lies ahead. We reach the parking lot and don't see Connie, so we start across the wide river on the 625' footbridge spanning it. We hear a shoot from behind and it's Connie, who comes rushing to join us on the bridge. A joyous reunion and then we all hike across for pictures on the other side with the last white blaze we pass on this journey. But wait, Lucy/Starlu appears ready to hike on, despite her mother and the potential for returning to her warm home. Perhaps there is hope for her to join me again on my further wanderings on this enchanting trail...