Date: 2008-07-22
From: Nauman Tent Site

To: Madison Spring Hut
Miles today: 12.0
Weather: fog

There was something I forgot to mention yesterday. I had encountered a couple who were doing a southbound thru-hike. They asked me if I was hiking alone and I told them I pretty much was. They asked me "don't you get lonely?" I gave them my standard answer that it didn't bother me hiking alone. But after they had passed on by I began to think about loneliness and my hike. In all honesty, after almost six months of hiking, most of it alone, be alone was really starting to suck. My hike was starting to become more of a psychological challenge (it's strange that I can realize all of this and put thoughts to paper so quickly). Though I'm not worried I won't finish (not for this reason anyway).Back when I hiked along with Stormenorm and Water Bear it was enjoyable to have others to "shoot the shit" with. It made for a easier hiking day. But they were an exception. I mean, they were half my age. I'm surprised we tolerated each other so well. I would think that the last thing others in their 20's would want to do is hike along with a 50-something.Anyway, yes it does get lonely hiking by yourself. I think that's only normal. The southbound thru-hikes were the same way. Others in my shoes have to deal with it and I'm no exception. I guess that's enough about that. Today was one the "big" days for me - as it is for a lot of hikers. Climbing over Mt. Washington. There was a lot less rain and part of the day there was no rain. But it was foggy at times. Although not cloudy on top of Mt. Washington, the fog in the distance pretty much ruined some of the views.Anyway, got up in the morning with a light but stead mist coming down. Pack up my tent and gear as best as possible, trying to keep things dry. Did not really have any distance goal for today - just wanted to concentrate on Mt. Washington and spend a bit of time there.Leaving the tent site (which is below treeline) required a climb of about 500-600 feet up Mt. Clinton. Not that difficult, even in the rain. Mt. Clinton used to be called Mt. Pierce (a U.S. President in the 1800's). But they have changed the name to Mt. Clinton (you can guess who he is).From here the trail gradually gained elevation and went over several more mountains, eventually getting back to over 5,000 feet. That's where the Lakes of the Clouds hut is encountered. I didn't stay there this trip, but have on two previous hikes. It is the largest hut and I believe can sleep over 100 people at a time. One time I did work for stay at the hut. The other time I got kinda crazy and decided to pay the $89 and stay for the night like a "normal" person would. Just wanted to see what would be different with the meals (getting to eat everything they served) and the bunkrooms (the matress was a bit more comfortable than my Thermarest). But basically, I threw away $89 that time.I've never stayed in the dungeon. You reach the basement "room" through an outside door and a lot of hikers consider it a tradition to stay there.The Lakes of the Clouds Hut is only about 1.5 miles prior to reaching Mt. Washington. So I moved on and completed my third "climb" of the mountain. When you come up from the north side (per my two SOBO hikes) you get to see the cog railway and auto road prior to getting to the summit and the buildings there. But this time I reached the summit first. The observatory building is BIG. They have a large cafeteria, and a display/museum about the place. Over in a corner is a small booth which is the post office. It can hold only one postal employee. Today it held none. I have sent a mail drop here in the past. And I was able to collect it. But it is a risky proposition to do a mail drop here. Either the postal employee or your package may not be here when you arrive.Downstairs is what they call a "hiker room." There are some tables and chairs you can relax in; repack gear; etc. I tried drying out some of my clothes my placing them next to the wall heaters (which were indeed turned on). It didn't really work that well (the drying) but I felt better for having tried.The cog railway train is pretty neat. If it is not too foggy you can see it coming down or uphill towards you. The Appalachian Trail actually goes across the railway. If you cross exactly where the trail is, you will climb over the elevated portion of the railway. You may well get some rail grease on your clothes or gear. In the past it was very foggy in this area and I could not see the train until it was right on top of me. So I had to use the train's approaching sound to let me know when to cross.I don't know how much, but they charge a minor fortune to ride the cog railway or use the Auto Road. I've never been able to drive a vehicle up or down the Auto Road, but it is steep. I believe that you have to have a sufficiently powerful-enough car for them to let you go up. Even more amazing, they hold both annual bicycle and jogging races up the Auto Trail. I can't believe they can make it to the top. They are better folks than I am.After leaving Mt. Washington the trail begins to gradually descend for a while. Then another brief climb and you are at Edmands Col. This is a low point between some of the higher mountains. There are several trails that intersect here - so you can see quite a few hikers. There is also a monument plaque to the man the Col is named after.It's only about a mile further to Thunderstorm Junction. I'm not sure why that name, but there is a very LARGE rock cairn here. That brings up a point I've been meaning to make. Up north on the trail rock cairns are pretty common. They can serve as a great location for white blazes and help guide hikers in limited visibility conditions. But down south on the trail they are almost non-existent. Why? I'm thinking particulary of Little Hump and Hump mountains in Tennessee. I had a terrible time with the wind-driven snow seeing my way. A cairn would have been a big help.Finally, for the day, a descent over the next mile to Madison Spring Hut. Today I had no trouble getting to do work for stay. The crewe were very nice and I was able to quickly get a bowl of soup and some crackers. I wish I could have had some better weather to dry out my tent, but you can't have it all.