Date: 2010-03-21
From: Carter Gap Shelter

To: Rock Gap Shelter
Miles today: 12.1
Weather: light rain

It Don't Come Easy!The day dawned gray and blustery. There was a red glow on the horizon hinting of bad weather to come. My tent was dry, thanks to the strong winds that pounded the mountainside through the night.A group staying in the shelter got up well before sunrise and headed out on a 16 mile push to get to Franklin, to avoid spending a night in the rain.It was difficult to pack up my tent in the wind, so I gathered it up and brought it to the shelter for folding and packing. I finally got on the trail by 9:30. Someday, I will get more efficient with camp chores, I hope.It wasn't long before clouds enshrouded the mountains and a steady drizzle developed. Thankfully, I had my pack cover and rainpains on, so I didn't have to stop. I passed Moonpie and Zip Code just before Mooney Gap. After Mooney Gap, the trail rises up the side of Big Butt Mountain (really, I am not making this up). The trail seems chiseled into the side of a cliff in places with the mist obscuring how far one would fall before making any noise (other than the screaming, of course). Then came the vertical scramble up Albert Mountain. I had to throw my trekking poles on a ledge above and use both hands to scramble up the rock in one place. Unfortunately, the fog robbed me of any views at the top; no need to climb the fire tower.The rain and wind intensified when descending the mountain. My wet hands were becoming uncomfortably cold. I tried to pick up the pace to keep warm. I could feel the dampness invade every corner of my body and soul. I dropped my pack for a quick snack and a map check. This turned out to be a mistake as I got much colder. I thought at that moment that I was nuts for being out there in this weather. Thankfully, quitting was not on the menu. After a bit, the trail came to the rescue by going steadily upward after Glassmine Gap, allowing me to generate some warmth from the exertion.I was the first to roll into Rock Gap Shelter, cold, wet, and exhausted. I swept the shelter floor, and lay out my groundsheet and sleeping pad. I normally don't like to sleep in shelters due to the mice and crowding, but the cold rain and the absence of a level tentsite on this rocky ground limited my options. To add to the fun, the spring was very shallow. I scooped water into my bag, one half cup at a time while standing in the driving rain. Camp chores become slow and deliberate with numb hands and mind. All of my energy and enthusiasm was draining away as the cold invaded. I finally cooked supper, but had to choke down the meal. My appetite had jumped ship. Through the afternoon and evening, five more waterlogged sojourners arrived, all similarly beaten down by weather. Then two more arrived, but decided to push on down the trail. I would see them tomorrow at Winding Stair Gap, waiting for the shuttle to Franklin.We slept with our heads to the mouth of the shelter as the floor sloped down to the back wall, likely as a result of the foundation settling. As harsh winds and violent thunderstorms with torrential rain developed, we were splashed with raindrops and mist.On this dreary day, I realized that this thru-hike will likely be the most difficult undertaking of my life.Tomorrow, it is on to Franklin!All things are only transitory. -Johann Wolfgang von Goethe