Date: 2012-02-20
From: Roan Mountain TN

To: Moreland Gap Shelter
Miles today: 18.2
Weather: clear sky

The house was still when I woke up. The Weather Channel forecast showed that the front had passed. The weather was clear and cold - great for hiking. I packed, settled up with Mary, and asked her about the Trail. Should I turn at the next left to pick it up northbound or go beyond the road?Well, either I misunderstood or had phrased the question badly. At any rate, I turned at the road and started up the hill. There on the right was a white blaze so I turned off the road. Thinking about how far I should go today I moved briskly on for a while. Then I drew up short. There, just in front of me, was 19E.   I had missed that bit of trail and had gone southbound!With a sigh I turned around and retraced my steps back to the side road. Mary must have meant the Trail follows the road up the steep hill for a ways and then goes back into the woods. So I trudged up and up scanning the tree for the white blaze that would lead me on. I watched carefully since some of the tree trunks were covered with snow, which would hide blazes. Finally I consulted the map and discovered that the Trail had crossed the road directly, and I was way off course.Once again I retraced my steps, frustrated at losing so much time to silly navigation errors. Usually I feel confident about following the Trail. In general it's very easy.The snowy path led through the woods and up to an open area where the sunlight made the snow and ice sparkle. Here the Trail followed an old logging road, but now it looked like maybe it was being used by ATVs sometimes. The grade was easy for a while and then became very steep. I was nearly to the top of the rise when I realized I hadn't seen any blazes for a while. Looking back down the slope I saw where the Trail had branched off the old road. Once again I had to retrace my steps, sliding and skidding down the steep road. After I followed the right path for a while I found that I was within 30 feet of where I had turned around. Duh.Still the day was beautiful, and I was looking forward to the day's walk. However, I started pondering a personal issue - a problem with someone close. As can happen when wallowing by myself with a problem, I felt more and more lost and more overwhelmed than I had. Was being lost going to be the theme of the day?I took the blue-blazed trail to see Jones Falls then continued on to lovely Mountaineer Shelter with its wooden bear carving. A quick break for lunch and I set off again. I still wasn't sure how far I was going to try to get. It was too early to stop at Mountaineer Shelter even though I was tempted to stay and sit in the sunshine. Moreland Gap Shelter, at 18.2 miles from 19E, seemed too far. A campsite or stealth site in between? I'd have to wait and see. I climbed the shelter side trail back to the AT and continued on. After several minutes I realized I was once again going the wrong way! Before today I don't know when I'd done that last.The rhododendron in this section were bent low with snow. In many places I had to push through the branches and was rewarded with snow dumped on my head and shoulders and down my back. It made me wonder if I was being repaid for a certain incident involving Doc Rockett, a lowered car window and a cartop load of snow.The afternoon wore on, and just when I was ready for a break, I happened upon a bench on the Trail! A bench with a great view back to Hump Mountain where I'd been just two days earlier. It was a good chance to think about where to stay tonight. While I was thinking about it a couple of southbound section hikers came by and reported they had tented near Moreland Gap Shelter and had had mice crawling over their tent. I decided I should tent somewhere before the shelter. I remembered a spot from when I was hiking here a couple of years ago. That would shorten the day by about 3 miles, I figured. Just as well. I was tired, having to retrace my steps so often today combined with worrying over the personal problem, these had left me feeling worn out.Still, it was a pleasant day and I enjoyed the sights around me. But as the sun sank I became frustrated at not finding the camping spot I remembered. I convinced myself that I must be hiking at a very slow pace and had not come as far as I originally thought. I wanted a place with water, and all those that I saw either had no flat spots big enough to set up my tarp or the area was damp and chill, certain to make cold, unpleasant sleeping.   Becoming more tired and feeling almost desperate I tried to decide what to do. I *still* hadn't found the site I'd been shooting for. The sun had gone down, and I was hiking in the last of the twilight. Suddenly I recognized that I wasn't far at all from Moreland Gap Shelter. I'd managed to miss the campsite and walked the more than 18 miles while being convinced that I hadn't even gone 15. Just before full dark I reached the shelter and settled in. The lights of Roan Mountain, TN twinkled in the valley below.Finally I snuggled into my sleeping bag. I'd felt lost and disoriented most of the day, which is unusual. But now, at least, I knew where I was. Moreland Gap Shelter. Home for the night.