Date: 2003-05-12
From: US 220, Troutville-Daleville

To: Wilson Creek Shelter
Miles today: 11.2
Weather: broken clouds

I missed hearing the birdsong this morning. In my sealed room at the EconoLodge, it was but a faint peeping.On the other hand, the hot water was abundant and heavenly.Outside, the wind was so gusty it blew us back as we exited the motel. Negotiating the I-81 interchange for breakfast was interesting. For one, getting a hitch from the Roanoke commuters proved impossible.It was a new perspective crossing an area on foot that was designed for motor travel. We were walking in the weeds (eeew! ticks...), on the concrete slopes under the bridges, climbing up roadside-vetched slopes to clamber over fast-food parking lot fences.But the waffles were good. Again, hitching proved impossible and I was unable to get to the Troutville post office. I return to the room without my booty and crash for a nap. The Brits and Notes return and watch "Airport." Eventually I wake and pack up to go. I'll have the post office forward it to a more hospitable drop.Before I leave town, I telephone Chief, who has promised me a ride to Trail Days, the big hiker festival in Damascus Virginia this weekend. Trail Days is a huge hiker reunion, with gear repair booths, shoe fitting clinics, lots of lovely equipment, food, dancing, workshops and the infamous Hiker Talent Show. Oh, and the water-cannon-armed Hiker Parade down Main Street.We arrange a pick-up spot three days down the road. It's good to hear Chief's voice. I confess my near-meltdown of three days ago, and he is great, assuring me that I was doing big miles over a tough section. "We'll have a little pep talk," he promises. Another thru-hiker understands about near-meltdowns.I leave town after 1 pm. The weather is about perfect for hiking, sunny but almost too cool without a pack on the back and a climb in front of one. The climb up Fullhardt's Knob had easy switchbacks, and a gusty wind kept pace with me. I believe it was the noise of the wind that let me round a bend and come upon the largest wild tom turkey I had ever seen. So tall! We eyeballed each other momentarily, and then he slipped uphill into the brush, pretending he hadn't been outed. And then, suddenly, there was another. I startled her as she entered the Trail's open space, and she took flight down the hill. After a pause, her hidden mate followed suit. They are wary birds, so such a close sighting was exciting.Fulhard Knob Shelter has a cistern, a rarity on the AT. It collects rainwater from the roof and stores it in a tank. The local maintaining club recently cleaned it out, and there is a spigot. Also a note to boil everything.I walk on, because I want to reach the next shelter, Wilson Creek. The mountains are like large green mounds here, and it seems as if we go over every one. Gone are the polite switchbacks. My heel tendons complain. Well, I'll have four Trail Days to recover and rest.The rhododendron have really popped into bloom the last few days. The Trail crosses three creeks in between the high mounds, and the "rhodo zones" here are gorgeous. When a bush has a large drift of the lavender-pink blossoms, it almost looks mythical and other-worldly.At the last creek is a rare sign, "shelter .7 mi". Usually they never tell you a shelter is close, you just stumble upon it with relief. Underneath, some wag has penned, very neatly, "UPHILL." And so it is. Uphill. But I knew it was there, and tackled the hill with zeal. Like a twenty-something.By 7 pm, the shelter looms. Notes comes in right behind me, and tells me that Fly and Smoothie are behind me a day now. They have been a day ahead for the last several weeks, but have taken a couple of extra zeroes to rest. I hope they catch me before I get off the Trail for Trail Days on Thursday morning.I also wonder where Wench and HotDog have gotten to. I check the registers but don't see their scribblings. They were consistently two days ahead, so I doubt they dropped in behind me. A mystery, but without internet access, I can't check their online journals. Could they have taken time off and gotten behind me?The shelter looks full, but Bonfire and Apollo crowd Typhoon over and squeeze me in. I am glad, because the wind is very, very strong and gusty tonight, and it has clouded up again. Temp is dropping, and I put on all my clothes before retiring. Yes, it rains in the night.