Date: 2003-04-16
From: Carvers Gap

To: Iron Mt Gap
Miles today: 13.9

A historic morning. Two years today, I went on my very first backpacking trip.What was I thinking?This morning a polite young thru-hiker, Desmond, told me his mother was reading my journal. So, Hi, Desmond's mom! Your son is doing well in health and spirits. He even talks to the old people (those over 25 years of age). Good work, woman! You raised him right.Today, Roan Mountain is on tap. The sun is out, the snows should be melted. Though I am about 2 months too early for the famous rhododendron display, it is a beautiful mountain in it's early spring garb.Yes, early spring - though the daffodil and forsythia have all blown out on the flatlands, in the mountains the trees are still barely budded. Roan just about knocks you over with that fabulous Christmas tree smell. All that balsam and spruce reminds me of Vermont.Since I've done Roan twice northbound under full pack - an experience to remember, I can assure you - I decided my tendons wanted to try southbound this time, as per Bob's suggestion. Ha! What a difference! I found myself at Roan High Knob Shelter in under an hour, that's what climbing a 6,200-foot plus mountain from 5500 feet will do for you. The other side comes from much lower.Roan High Bluff is actually a parking area. The gate to the road below is still closed due to snow. The ruins of a grand old hotel, The Cloudland, still stand. The structure was built to straddle the NC/TN line, because TN was not a dry state (NC was). It is said that a line was painted in the hotel structure, to indicate where guests could legally drink.Roan is the second highest peak we climb on the AT, Clingman's Dome in the Smokies being the highest. Roan is only 3 feet lower than Mount Washington in NH, according to Bob.The shelter is unusual for the AT - four walls, a door that closes, windows. It's an old fire warden's cabin. The highest one on the AT, you can bet this old log structure has weathered some storms.As I am going SOBO today, I decide to distribute a little Trail magic. I bring along a bag of various candies, and feel like Santa Claus. Hikers get so excited at the prospect of chocolate in the middle of the woods. I meet a number of friends going north: Sandal has finally escaped the Erwin vortex; his shins are healed and pain free. Later in the day, I run into young Slow Ride, back on the Trail after four days with his girlfriend.I also meet an internet friend - Goldberry, or Claire. We spoke before our hikes. As we both were hiking for charity, we exchanged donations. Today there are trout lilies galore. Not a one before today, and then - poof! Trout lillies. They spring from mottled leaves, resembling camoflauge. The tiny yellow petals curled back so far they fold backward and nearly cross. Precious.Another familiar face came up the Trail: Yukon. He had started his thru-hike last year at Roan Mountain. Today, he would ascend that peak again, and complete his thru-hike. I high-fived him, and his face broke into a grin. Ceremony is needed! Validation! I took a picture of him pointing at his journey"s end, Roan.I swung into Iron Mountain Rd and there again, was Bob, my shuttle. Life is good.I learn that Sonic and 'Guana, also Fly and Smoothie, Wench and Hotdog were due in tomorrow.