Date: 2009-04-22
From: Derrick Knob Shelter

To: Clingman's Dome (Gatlinburg, TN)
Miles today: 10.5
Weather: few clouds

Damn that DomeWhen we awoke at Derrick Knob the temperature was 26 degrees. All the condensation had frozen on the inside wall of our tent, so it began snowing inside every time we bumped the tent wall. We had set an alarm for the first time because we had to get on the trail early to hike the 10 miles remaining to Clingman¢s Dome and meet our friends Colin and Anna before 3pm, as previously arranged. Jess and Graveyard weren¢t early risers, so we didn¢t see them before we left.After an initial descent into Buckeye Gap, it was a long steady climb up Silers Bald on the way to Clingman¢s Dome, the highest point along the AT at 6,643 feet. We stopped briefly at Silers Bald for lunch and to take in the view, which again was quite clear and spectacular.Shortly after 2 pm, we began what we thought was our final ascent up Clingman¢s Dpome. It was a very tough climb, and our legs were wearing out, but the entire time we had a clear view of what we thought was the top of the mountain. I reached the top first, and let out a short expletive when I saw the next gap and ridge that led to the actual summit of Clingman¢s Dome. Liz was similarly crushed when she reached the top and saw the climb down and up that still laid ahead of us. Neither of us had the legs left to make it, but we pressed on anyway, still hoping to reach the top by 3pm, which is when we had agreed to meet Colin and Anna. Luckily it was an easier climb than it looked and precisely at 3pm we reached the summit and observation tower. Colin and Anna weren¢t there.After waiting around a bit, and asking around a bit, for any sign that they might have already been there, Liz and I climbed up to the top of the observation tower to take some pictures and try to make some phone calls, since it was the first place we could get reception in nearly a week. The observation tower was extremely cold and had large chunks of Ice at the top that hadn¢t melted in some time, revealing how cold it stays at that elevation this time of year. The wind was strong and biting cold. We didn¢t stay up there long before we had to come down to warm up and make lunch.Clingman¢s dome is a popular place because there is a road and parking lot just 500 yards from the summit. So we had the opportunity to meet many of the tourists coming up for the day, as well as two local volunteer ride runners preparing to make their run south to Fontana Dam. It was also an opportunity to catch up with some fellow hikers also breaking for a wile at the summit, including Ezra and Muscles (who were waiting for Ten Sticks to show up), and some new friends: Cricky, Father Time, Fidget and Sierra Vagabond.Liz and I were both completely wasted for the day, and had assumed we missed Colin and Anna, so we were preparing to hitch a ride to Gatlinburg just as they showed up around 5pm. Colin and Anna had both gone to school at UIS with Liz. Colin is a forest Ranger, whose last assignment was Acadia National Park in Maine, but is currently looking for work. Anna just graduated law school and learned s passed the Bar just before leaving on the trip to the Smoky Mountains.They had hiked into the park from the north, and left their bags at the shelter just past Clingman¢s Dome and slackpacked the rest of the way. We felt obligated to go back to the shelter with them, but we were both beat and nearly out of food and supplies. So after catching up with them a bit we headed down to the parking lot to hitch a ride into Gatlinburg.We were picked up on our first try by Josh, a Nashville businessman who was in Knoxville for business and decided to take a day trip into the Smoky Mountains. He was passing through Gatlinburg on the way back, so offered to take us all the way into town. Josh was fascinated by our journey and asked us many questions about the trail, hygiene, food, protection, etc¢¦ As we drove around the base of a large mountain with a clear view to the top, Josh asked rhetorically, ¢man, can you imagine climbing that mountain?¢ Liz and I looked at each other, chuckled and replied, ¢yes, several times a day¢. ¢You really climb mountains like that¢, he asked amazed. I think he was hooked on the idea of doing it himself. Seeing a mama bear with 2 cubs waking along the road to Gatlinburg likely sealed the deal.Josh dropped us off at the Grand Prix, a modest Gatlinburg motel that offered affordable hiker rates. Still intrigued by our adventure, he jotted down our trail journal addresses, gave us his card and asked us to keep in touch. As it was getting late, we quickly took showers, walked down to the Shoney¢s buffet and ate until we could eat no more. When we returned to the Grand Prix we were greeted by N¢Da¢Wind, Ariba (Sally Jo), and Ten Sticks, who had also come in to Gatlinburg that day. Ten Stick had taken a wrong turn and got lost on the trail, stumbling into the Clingman¢s Dome parking lot where he was immediately offered a ride into town - he didn¢t think twice, which is why Ezra and Muscles never saw him at the summit. Unfortunately all of us were completely exhausted, so we kept the socializing short and turned in early ¢ leaving the exploration of Gatlinburg for the next day.