Date: 2013-03-12
From: Rock Gap

To: Wayah Bald
Miles today: 13.8

What a difference a day makes.Yesterday around noon we were in a cold rain, and Hoosier was close to hypothermia. Today, at about the same time, we were standing on a small wooden trail bridge over a very nice waterfall while enjoying the warmth of the sun and eating an apple. A couple of hours later, we were stretched out, basking in the sun on a grassy field on top of Siler Bald (4,700 feet). Now we have ended the day camped right against the historic stone tower (using the tower as wind-block) at the top of Wayah Bald (5,342 feet). The 360 degree view from the tower on this clear evening is absolutely incredible. Quite a change from yesterday when we couldn't see anything but the cloud we were in at the Albert Mountain Tower. The view has made it worth camping in a spot where the temperature is sure to get down to the mid-to-low 20's tonight. We are counting on a spectacular sunrise to again warm things up quickly in the morning. We are right in the middle of a beautiful mountain range, and, now that the sun has set, we can look down at the valleys and see all the lights from the different towns and cabins tucked into the mountainside. It really is beautiful. A big bonus today was again enjoying "trail magic" provided by Fresh Ground. This is the second time he has served us. He moved north (like we are) and set up camp for a week next to the trail. He is now serving coffee, hot chocolate, Campbell's chicken noodle soup, fresh green salad, hot dogs, and potato chips. He does all of this for free and won't accept donations. He says we will see him again on the other side of Smokey Mountain National Park. He is such a friendly guy, and lets you know that he loves God and is doing this because he believes God wants him to and because he loves doing it. Fresh Ground had a scale. Using it we found out that my pack weights 36 pounds today, fully loaded. That is the heaviest it has been so far because I am carrying 5-6 days worth of food and 2 liters of water. That's an acceptable amount of weight for me. Pack weight can fluctuate by 6-8 pounds depending on how much food and water you are carrying. There were lots of hikers on the trail today, including several day hikers. When we introduced ourselves to two of the day hikers, they immediately knew Hoosier and I because they are following our trail journals. We are camping with Dirty Bird, who has more than 6,000 long-distance trail miles. Her trail name comes from the fact that she is serious about leaving no trace behind when she camps. She reminds others to pack out their garbage by signing the shelter journals, "Don't be a dirty bird." Her pack only weighs 23 pounds. The downside of that is that she is cold tonight since to cut down her pack weight she is carrying very minimal cold weather gear. This is her second time thru-hiking the A.T. I asked her why she keeps coming back to this trail and other major long distance trails. She said, "Lots of reasons, but mostly, I just like to walk AND I can eat anything thing I want."I've been writing this entry in my tent but before I go to sleep I just took a few moments to get out of the tent and enjoy the view once more. The stars are out, and the view of the valley is spectacular. The lights from the cabins and towns look like stars themselves, echoing the beauty from above. It's like there are stars above and stars below. The beauty of the night is enchanting. Even as I lay in bed, I can't help but think about the incredible beauty all around me.