Date: 2007-06-06
From: VA 220

To: VA 311, Catawba
Miles today: 19.8

June 6, Cliffs, Knobs and FunI set my alarm for 6:30 a.m. today but somehow we didn't get on the trail until ten after nine. We were all exhausted. Young Eagle and I were moving very slowly. I turned on my iPod, hoping it'd add a little spring to my step. It did and I started climbing and feeling more energetic. We were heading southbound today so we got to start the day with a climb.Once I got to the top, the day full of wonderful views began. We walked along a ridge for a few miles with gorgeous views on each side of the mountain.Today was one of my favorite days so far on the AT. Just wonderful. The trail was peppered with spectaular views all day long and it was easy to get caught up in the excitement. At one point, I remember stopping to look at a view and thinking that this was what made all of the pesky walking worthwhile. So, we walked along that ridge for about about five miles. It was pretty easy and I was really feeling good. I stopped a couple of times to wait for Young Eagle as he was hurting today. He told me he was seriously contemplating turning around and going back to town.I ran into a lot of folks as they were heading northbound into town - Chef, Popeye, Lightweight, Thumper, RainDog, and Smokestack. Each of them had encouraging things to say about the miles ahead.So, after the ridge walk, there were a series of rolling hills that lasted about two miles. I felt good and was pretty much zooming up and over most of them - except for those that were straight up. I was listening to Guster and all was well with the world.Young Eagle and I stopped at the first shelter for a rest after ten miles. When I arrived, there was a deer munching on a snack and was not alarmed by me at all. I said hello and we both went about our own business. It didn't leave for about 15 minutes. The pen with the shelter provided much entertainment - it was a basketball hoop with the ball. I wasn't leaving until I got a basket. Luckily I did and all was well again. Ronin pulled in just as we were about to leave. I witnessed the key exchange and we traded commentary on the road ahead.Young Eagle and I headed on and I was really excited. We had Tinker Cliffs and McAfee Knob ahead of us - some of the best views in Virginia, I'd heard. It was probably the most excited I've been to climb several mountains in one day.So, we got to Tinker Cliffs in a jiffy. The views were beautiful and we took some time for photos. The trail paralleled the cliffs very closely for about a half mile, very enjoyable. Then we hiked over lots of rolling hills. I'd almost had my fill and my right leg felt like it was coming out of its socket - is that called the acetabulum?Anyway, on we went. We stopped at a shelter and met Wolf Taffy and Lion. Wolf shared dark chocolate, mmm. Thank you. On the way there, we stopped to celebrate the 700 mile mark. We'd actually already walked well over 700 miles since we were waking southbound but I wanted to celebrate at the exact point for northbounders. I made a marker out of sticks and we took some photos. Very exciting to hit 700!On we went to McAfee Knob. We got there and enjoyed the view but I was pretty disappointed because the famous rock that everyone took photos at looked so small and anti-climactic in real life. I kept telling Eagle that it was not the right rock but he didn't believe me so we took a bunch of photos there. We were all ready to leave and we started hiking again. Not even a minute later, we came across a blue blazed trail for the knob. I wanted to check it out just to make sure and....yes!...this was the real McAfee Knob! I was so glad we checked it out! This rock outcropping was much more dramatic than the other and the view was spectacular too! We hung out for a little while taking more photos and watching a plane head down to Roanoke Airport. Delightful. For so many months, years even, I've been looking at photos of McAfee Knob on TrailJournals.com and I was finally there! I was very happy. Every step was worth it (except for maybe those last ones in the Smokies).The rest of the hike was just something I had to endure to get to the end. Most was downhill but the last mile was up. We got to the car at about quarter to nine, headed to Daleville and met Melk and Ronin at Rancho Viejo for dinner. Excellent. I had seafood fajitas. Mmm.I am exhausted tonight. I barely had the energy to shower. But it really was a great day and I had a great time hiking. I almost wish I could repeat the hike. - Sound of Dave Chapelle on the TV. Post Trail Thoughts:Even after everything else I saw along the trail after that day, it still stands out as one of the most enjoyable days. Mostly because of the views but also because of the gorgeous weather, the fun of slackpacking SOBO and getting to run into a bunch of folks all day, and the calmness I always felt after a big day. The magic of Tinker Cliffs and McAfee Knob really made me feel like a thru-hiker. And I loved the smell of progress.On McAfee Knob, there is a place on the edge of the outcropping that is so worn from people sitting on it that it has formed a literal seat. I remember it was very smooth. So smooth, in fact, that I thought I might slide ride off. I never took one of those "legs dangling off McAffee Knob" photos. Oh well. At least we found the real knob.At Lamberts Meadow Shelter (the one with the deer), there was a menu for Rancho Viejo on the picnic table. Young Eagle, Ronin and I studied that thing and couldn't wait to get there that night. Margaritas! It ended up being SO delicious that I went there several times.BigBy always used to say that Ronin was in the "Ron Zone" because he carried this gigantic iPod and listened to it full blast as he hiked 17 MPH. I remember when he showed up at Lamberts Meadow Shelter that day, he was definitely in the Ron Zone. Ronin's iPod later fell into a stream in Vermont - just before Killington, I believe.What a great day.