Date: 2013-05-29
From: Niday Shelter

To: Four Pines Hostel, VA 624, Newport Rd
Miles today: 16.7

I tried to sleep only in the silk liner and bivy sack, to see if it would be warm enough. But it turns out that it's still a tad too cold at night. So I pulled the sleeping bag over me, like a quilt. Is it ever going to get warm enough to send it home?The morning hike was kind of a blur. I passed a forest ranger, and it warned of a hot day, temperatures approaching 90F. Ugh. And there's wasn't going to be much water to be had today. When I got down to Craig Creek Rd, a vehicle was pulling up. I stepped out of the way to let it pull into the parking lot. A friendly face (belonging to none other than Joe Mitchell)greeted me and asked if I was staying at "the hostel" tonight. I had heard that I was near Four Pines Hostel, but I hadn't realize that today was the day. I say, probably. He was dropped off Sole Sister, who I hadn't seen since just after Hot Springs. She quickly caught up to me, and we chatted and hiked until the distance drew too great. She was slack packing(i.e. NOT carrying 28 lbs of food), thus shot off like a rocket. The morning climb wasn't quite as harsh as yesterday's, but there was no mistaking it, it was definitely up.I stopped at the Audie Murphy memorial. It was peaceful, and there were some benches. I climbed down a bit further to the lookout. There was another memorial to a young man (a service member?) who had died way too young. A pair of combat boots and a small pile of small stones sat on the rock shelf above his memorial plaque. I sat there for half an hour.The day started warming up, just as the forest ranger had promised. I was sweating up a storm when I got to the next water source, a swiftly moving wide creek. Red Specs, Tie-Dye, Sole Sister, the Beast, and Sherpa were all there having lunch and/or pumping water. I joined them. After they'd gone, I waded into the water and washed the sweat off. Too bad I hadn't done it when I first arrived, a hot, sweaty mess. It would have felt so much better. The flies and gnats started swarming, and the all the fun was drained from the moment. It was time to go. The trail climbed back up and followed a narrow, sharp, steep backbone of a ridgeline. The rocks were sharp and pointy and jagged. My ankle and knees were so sore. There was plenty of scrambling. Today's hike required all four limbs and the bum. I took the straps of my hiking poles off my wrists in case I fell (I didn't). It was so impossibly hot; the heat reflected back off the rocks and came at you from every direction.   The air hung heavy and humid. I drank constantly, but I could still feel myself dehydrating. After several miles, I finally reached the Dragon's Tooth. It was an impressive monolith set in powdery white sand. I wished I had gotten there earlier in the day so I could hang out and explore more. But it was getting late in the day, and I was getting tired. And the worst was yet to come. Getting down Dragon's Tooth. OMG. If there hadn't been white blazes painted every 2-3 ft apart, I would have never believe it to be the AT. In some places, solid metal poles bent into hand-holds were anchored into vertical rock walls, and that's if you were lucky. Other places you had to search for hand and foot holds. Without a pack it would have been a lot more fun. As it was, I was grateful have almost 700 miles of confidence to coax me down.It took a long time to work the last 2.5 miles. The rhododendrons were blooming, some having already passed their peak. It was so hot and dry, some vegetation hung limp. As I was climbing up a rock face, I saw some landscaping timber steps. Woohoo for steps! I leapt up them and came face to face with a big copperhead. I jumped and screeched out a curse word. It was over 2 ft long and as big around as the handle of a shovel. It froze in the middle of the path. There was no way to get around it, and I sure as hell wasn't going to try to step over it. I stood still for a moment, hoping it would move along. It didn't. I tried to poke its tail with my hiking pole, to coax it along. It swung back in my direction. Not the desired affect. I retreated down the stairs and tried to toss small rocks at it. I missed everytime (I guess I work better with apples). I backed away a little more. The snake took the opportunity to slither behind a log and down the hill. Whew!I finally got down the hill and came to the road. The guidebook said the Four Pines Hostel was .3 miles E. I looked at my compass, east pointed right, but I had sworn that the sign said to turn left. I turned right and walked 100 ft up the road. That didn't seem right, so I turned around and walked 200 ft down the road. But that didn't feel right either. I went back up the hill, but then second guessed myself and walked back down the hill. Finally I pulled out the guidebook and looked at the address. I was headed in the wrong direction, but at this point I had decided that a Gatorade was first and foremost on my list of importance. And anyway, I was almost to the store. The sun was shining bright in my eyes, and the traffic was flying by in either direction. As I got close to the store, a truck was waiting to pull out of the parking lot. I stopped to let go ahead of me. It didn't move. I couldn't see anything because of the sunlight, so I kept my eye to the ground. Finally, I realized that it was Red Specs hanging out the passengers' side door, trying to hand me a cup of soda on ice. The truck was full of hikers from Four Pines Hostel, and Joe was behind the wheel. He asked me if I was headed his direction tonight. I said that that was my plan. He said to get what I needed from the store and then to have them call him when I was done, and he would drive down to pick me up. My lucky day!I made a b-line for the bathroom, not so much to pee (I was crazy dehydrated) but to take a peek at my left armpit. It felt chaffed and raw. One look in the mirror and my suspicions were true. It looked like the flesh of a ripe watermelon. And it burned so badly. I grabbed a 32 oz Gatorade and made myself a hotdog with a generous layering of chili and garnishes. As promised, the lady behind the counter called Joe to pick me up. Her words, "Joe, you have another one." As promised, Joe was there to pick me up in a matter of minutes. We pulled into Four Pines Hostel, and it was nothing like I imagined. There was a nice brick house set among green, hilly pastures. Joe, gave me a verbal tour, and said that I could stay wherever I liked. There was a 3-bay garage, with several old sofas, recliners, lounge chairs, an assortment of chairs, tables, a stove, a couple of fridges, a shower and toilet. Hiker stuff was strewn about. Work benches and tools lined the walls. You could also sleep in the barns or set your tent up on the lawn if you so chose. It's open year-round, solely donation based. It's laid back, incredibly hospitiable and friendly. I love it. How could you not?I set my tent up outside, without the rain fly. I want to see the stars. I went to take a shower and wash some clothes. Sole Sister gave me some tea tree oil to spray on my chaffed armpit. Note to anyone thinking of trying this: Don't. It's as if I hit my raw armpit with a flame thrower. I was completely unprepared for the pain that followed. It made my knees buckle, and I almost collasped. If I hadn't been standing next to the sink I would have hit the floor. For about 20 seconds I couldn't breathe. I just clung to the edge of the sink, mouth agape. I mean this with not a hint of exaggeration, it's one of the most painful things I've ever experienced. I'm just so grateful that I didn't spray it on my chaffed inner thighs first. I would have probably lost control of my bowels. I returned the bottle to Sole Sister; she said I was welcomed to use more of it. I graciously declined. I made dinner and visited with everyone. Red Specs showed us video had taken at Trail Days of the accident. It's a miracle no one was killed. I mended my stove bag whose seam had started to unravel. I bid everyone goodnight and venured out to my rainfly-less tent to enjoy the stars and catch up on my journal. I've had 48 oz of Gatorade, and still not a drop of pee. Wow. The stars are shining bright, not a cloud in sight. Today was a good, well-earned day.