Date: 2007-09-20
From: Vernon, NJ

To: Palmerton, PA
Miles today: 99.4

This morning, John and I hiked down a "treacherous open rock face" (hmm. Jumbled rocks with only a few trees here and there for almost a mile) to reach a 2 mile long blue-blazed trail and road walk into the burrough of Palmerton, PA. Palmerton is on the Lehigh River and was established around the zinc mines which were in full swing during WWII, producing more zinc than anywhere in the world. At the top of Blue Mountain above the town, it looks like a wasteland. The trees are snapped off and dead, grasses grow between the rocks, and the living trees are young and short. We racked our brains trying to guess what could have caused this. In Palmerton, a postal carrier we met said, "That's from the air pollution from the zinc processing plant." Pretty devastating! Fortunately, the area is healing, and we enjoyed an absolutely fabulous feast of fresh, local vegetables in a green, grassy park in the center of town. For the past few days, I've been feeling sluggish and not as energetic as usual. I've been craving VEGETABLES!!! So, all the way down the mountain this morning, I visualized my plate of vegetables. There, four blocks into town was a display of fresh, local vegies ready for the buying! The prices were great, so I loaded up two bags and took them right across the street to delight my taste buds and refresh my body.Then, we walked further down the main street to the Palmerton Burrough Hall where they welcome hikers with a "goody bag" of toothpaste, toilet tissue, Motrin, toothbrush, a Palmerton postcard, and a granola bar. There's a room open in the basement with bunks, tables, and a couch available free for hikers. Contrary to what the guidebook says, it's not in the "jailhouse". We can use the shower next to the gym and the boiler room for drying out gear. Although we don't plan to spend the night, the hospitality is warm and welcoming. Thanks, Palmerton!The walk from Vernon, NJ to Palmerton, PA including an overnight in the hostel in Delaware Water Gap, has put us in a new state if not entirely new terrain. We continue to hike the rocky ridge, rock hopping most of the time. Mind you, I am not complaining about the rocks as many do. I enjoy picking my way through the rocks, making "pedestrian decisions" about foot placement whether on the soil between rocks, on flat surfaces, or atop the points of rocks. In the final miles of New Jersey, we stopped by Sunfish Pond, the southernmost glacial pond on the AT. From there, we descended five miles down to the Delaware Water Gap. On the Sunday we took that walk, we met many dayhikers ascending, all hoping they would get to the top soon. With our light packs, weighing probably 12 pounds or so with no food and only a little water, typical of the end of a section, we actually RAN on the trail for a bit when it opened into a wide, smooth path, perfect for Sunday hikers. The Delaware Water Gap parking lot was full of cars! I'm glad so many people were enjoying the beautiful stream and early fall mountain path, but I wondered how many of them realized that if they just kept walking north for another 894 miles, they'd get to the summit of Mt. Katahdin! I was rejoicing that I had done that walk myself, grateful for the opportunity and the memories this hike has given me so far, looking forward to what the trail will bring further south.We crossed the Delaware River on the I-80 Bridge! We were on a sidewalk separated by concrete barriers from the cars and trucks zooming towards us on the eastbound lane of the interstate! Whew! With the river on our left and the traffic on our right, that was a heartrushing 10 minute walk! The quiet town of Delaware Water Gap was a welcome retreat after crossing that bridge!The air temperatures, especially in the mornings are dropping. That's good for the afternoons when the high is in the 70's, but 40 degree mornings made me want another layer. I bought a sunny yellow "windshirt" that's very lightweight, yet keeps me warm because it blocks the wind. A new outfitters in Delaware Water Gap called "The Edge of the Woods" had them on sale for an irresistable price! I still wear my shorts most of the day, but usually slip on my spandex pants for a few hours in the mornings.Last night, September 19, we camped on the top of Blue Mountain overlooking a big city which neither of us recognized. In the morning, the whole city was completely obscured by the fog which enveloped the valley. Only a few lights peeked through and treelike utility poles betrayed the presence of what we imagined as a long lost civilization swallowed by the fog.The next part of our journey takes us to Hawk Mountain Sanctuary, Port Clinton, PA, then on to Duncannon, PA. Duncannon is renowned as one of the best trail towns, so we may take a day off there. We're looking forward to the views from the many upcoming ridge vistas and the first day of Fall. Although some trees are starting to change, the mountains promise to be gorgeous as they transform to their full fall foliage.We've passed the 900 mile mark and continue loving the trail!