Date: 2008-08-13
From: Spruce Peak Shelter

To: Manchester Center, VT - "Nero"
Miles today: 2.8
Weather: clear sky

Hey everybody (finally)!Well, I am in Manchester Vermont, and have hiked over three-fourths of the trail. It is truly a miracle. Internet access has been hard to come by, as has been phone service. I have a lot to say, and only a short time to say it. The trail has changed considerably. The new things are: rain, rain, and more rain. Then there is the mud - we have renamed Vermont, "Ver-mud." Today was the first time I got to see a vista in VT - and that was while on the hitched ride into town. The trees are changing over from deciduous to evergreen - lots of hemlocks. The mosquitos thru Massachusetts were incredible - I believe they were actually little vampires. In other words, they really sucked. I have seen many beaver ponds and dams, but no beavers. I have seen many moose tracks and moose poop, but no moose. I did finally get to video-tape a rattle snake - pretty cool. The mushrooms have been amazing. I have taken lots of pictures of them, hoping to identify them when I get back home (where ever that may be). Jon and Steph (Duck and Buttercup), a couple that started the Trail on the same day as me, got engaged on the Trail last week. I have been hiking with them since I got back on the Trail. I hope to summit with them, but they need to be done on the 22nd of September, and I am not sure if I have the legs or the feet to do it. I have also been hanging with an Aussie name Just Mike. It has been fun talking with all three of them. Good to have travel companions. It has also increased my daily mileage to about 17-21 miles a day. We will see how long I can keep this up. I also look forward to going to Jon and Steph's wedding reception. Jon and I are slated to play golf at that time, if I can dig my clubs out of my storage unit.Physically, I am a little better. I found out that I have Mortons Neuroma with my feet. I have been building up my metatarsal arch with duct tape and that has made a difference. What was thought to be a hernia, I believe it was a muscle pull. It only hurts if I go up a hill too fast. My innards will probably be screwed up till I get done. I just have to play a balancing act with the wonders of medicine. Not a great idea, but as long as it gets me to the finish.In MA, we went to the highest peak, called Mt. Greylock. The park is closed for renovations, but we came along at the right time. We were able to go up the tower at the top because the commissioner of the DCR (Dept of Conservation and Recreation) happened to want to take a tour of the facility while were there. It was pretty cool to see something that probably no one else got to see this summer.I want to personally thank Linda in North Adams for driving Just Mike and me around town to resupply. Her husband is hiking the Continental Divide Trail and she recognized us for what we were - hikers. That is why I keep my silly beard, for it definitely signals me as a thru-hiker.We have been running into south-bound AT thru-hikers every day now. It usually turns into an exchange of information. We tell each other where to stay, or where the next water is located. We are now hiking on a 100-mile stretch of the Long Trail, one of the first long distance hiking trails in the U.S. I believe it was the first section to be designated part of the AT, about 80 years ago. I am now using new leg muscles to try and avoid the incessent mud. My new boots are truly a mess. The are soaked from the rain, and caked with wet mud. I believe they probably weigh at least another pound apiece.We stayed in Bennington, VT a few days ago, and it took a long time to get out of town. That was fortunate, because as we got back to the trailhead, we got to see the famous Paddy-O, the number one traveling trail angel. He had probably 8 coolers in the back of his truck, and fed us till were over-full. He has helped over 1200 hikers over the last 8 years. I got to meet him back in Gettysburg last year at a hiking conference. He actually remembered me - said he saw me in the back seat of a car and actually remembered my trail name at that time - Atilla the Thumb. With my beard, I am looking closer to Atilla, but more like a Norwegian Atilla. Paddy-O actually spent alot of time last year with a group known as the Maine Train, of which my mentor Uncle Tom was a part.Well, my time is about up - got things to do on this nero day. I hope I can get to a computer more frequently - we will see. Again, thanks for your support. I will try to get up some pictures from the free hostel I am staying at tonight. Troutbum[N.B.: Troutbum says he spent "a million dollars at the Outfitters" for new supplies, including rainpants he can put on w/o taking his boots off, and long underwear that fits (since he lost so much weight on the Trail), plus hiking sandals b/c they will have to cross rivers in the water (not on bridges) in Maine (he got a great deal on North Face sandals, on sale for $24!). Sadly, his hip is hurting again, but otherwise he's doing well.]