Date: 2015-06-26
From: Happy Hill Shelter

To: Hanover
Miles today: 5.9
Weather: overcast clouds

It was raining when I woke up this morning. My tent stayed dry, but I hid inside my sleeping bag until the rain stopped. I finally left about 7.30. I foolishly didn't put on any bug spray inside my tent, and had to quickly put it on afterwards just to take my tent down. I made my way quickly through the sodden woods. I slipped a couple times on slippery roots and rocks. I saw plenty of the orange lizards (aka red spotted newts, aka salamanders). They usually appear on the trail after the rain, which makes sense really. I was only in the woods for about half of the trail today. The rest was road and street walking. It was pretty good though. On the first street, I passed by three different hiker trail magic boxes. The first had cans and crackers, the second had watermelon (which was amazing) and banana bread, the last had clothing, lollipops and beer hidden at the bottom. Since it was about 8.45am, I didn't take any beer. I walked along the road through Norwich, VT. I enjoyed looking at all the houses, some were quite old (for American standards) and have interesting architecture. The trail followed the road for literally miles, taking me across the Connecticut river until I was officially in New Hampshire. I saw people rowing in the river. Then I saw students apartments and bicycles in porches. Finally, I saw the students of Dartmouth college themselves. It felt so strange to see people my own age, doing normal things and wearing normal clothes, and being completely clean. The town of Hanover is really nice. The Dartmouth college campus is really beautiful and has a lot of red brick buildings surrounded by green lawns. I actually saw a group playing frisbee on the green as I walked through. I thought that only happened in films. Aside from the campus, there are numerous shops, restaurants, and cafes. Even so early in the day, the town was busy and alive with people. Usually when I walk through a town, it's just dead. I tried to find a pay phone to call one of the trail angel hosts in Hanover. I couldn't find any pay phones, but the worker at Lou's let me use his phone. Lou's also gives thru hikers a muffin or coffee. I eventually got hold of Sally, who asked to meet at 4.30pm. I still had all day to explore Hanover. But first, I needed to get cleaned up.I went to the recreation/senior center, which lets hikers use the shower and laundry for $5. Hikers can also leave their packs there until 5pm. I did all that and headed back into the town. I got a Klondike bar and walked through Hanover, enjoying the hot sun and the delicious icecream. I made my way to the Brick and Brew pizza place, where hikers are given a free large slice of pizza. From there, I tried to find the deli where hikers can get a free bagel, but it was closed. Instead I got a bubble tea and sat by the green in the sun. It was really nice to relax and just enjoy the weather. About 2pm, I went to Murphy's for a late lunch. The food was excellent. I made my way back to the green area and read for a while. I met Sally outside the Dartmouth Outdoor Club. She is an older woman who lives across the river from Hanover, where she lets women hikers stay on the sofa. She took me back to her condominium, which has a lot of artwork done by herself. She made us both a giant salad with bacon and turkey. She also gave me tea, ginger ale, and cookies. We went for a walk and visited her dad, who is over 90 years old! When we came back, she let me take a bath. I actually really needed it because despite my shower earlier, my toenails were still dirty from the constant muddying. It was really nice staying with Sally, she and I had a lot to talk about. She was surprised by how much I knew about America and I was surprised by how much food she gave me, so I was completely stuffed. So far I've really enjoyed my time in New Hampshire. I'm sure it's helped that the weather has been beautiful, but Hanover has been really lovely too. It's really easy to see the incredible differences in wealth between the northern and southern towns- when I think of the places like Buena Vista that just had absolutely nothing going for them and how lively and prosperous Hanover seems in comparison. Perhaps it would have been better if I had seen a southern college town too. But I still think there wouldn't have been the same level of social and environmental consciousness that I have seen in Hanover already.