Date: 2016-03-01
From: Wesser Bald Shelter

To: Stecoah Gap
Miles today: 19.3
Weather: light rain

Lots of hiking today as Subman, Suds, and I pushed to get to Stecoah Gap, where Trail Chef graciously met us and took us, one more time, to his home. "Sub Special" is my name for Subman's optimization plan that enables us to hike for long hours and yet arrange for an evening of comfort well beyond anything that could otherwise be anticipated. This was the 3rd "Sub Special" and I hope to have many more.The morning's start from Wesser Bald Shelter couldn't have been better. Out just after 7:30, the hiking was easy in what seemed like a cool Fall morning. Natanhala Outdoor Center is right on the trail. There is a restaurant, an outfitter, and a general store. This area is a hub for outdoor activities, particularly white-water kayaking and rafting. As we walked by a fisherman cast his fly. Subman, Suds, and I had breakfast. The waitress couldn't have been nicer. Most of the other thru-hikers seen in the last day were there. A moment like this makes you feel like a thru-hiker because you realize, as you clean-up to go into the restaurant, that not everyone is doing what you are doing. When out on the AT, it feels like you're just hiking with other hikers. Breakfast was beyond words. Subman's meal came with 3 eggs but then he found an add-on opportunity for an additional 2 eggs and he went for it. My special treat was a very large glass of chocolate milk - I think the waitress was surprised how quickly it disappeared. So a second glass was ordered. Memories of enjoying chocolate milk were exchanged with Suds. Food is becoming a regular topic of conversation. Subman readily acknowledges that his "hiker hunger" appetite has kicked in. Suds and I don't have insatiable appetites yet, but we are cleaning our plates thoroughly. It was almost a 6-mile downhill climb before breakfast and yet we are smiling and feeling refreshed as we leave. I've read this section of the AT in so many other trailjournal entries that I knew what was coming next - an almost 6 mile section to gain almost 3,000 feet. This is not a walk in the park. Subman and Suds started out as I was taking pictures. Once ready to get underway, I laughed as I walked in one direction after another trying to find the AT again - a humbling moment for sure. The start is steep and the long climb ahead quickly becomes a reality. I moved ahead and hiked solo for a couple hours. Today is March 1st, known to be the starting day of the "bubble", a day when a disproportionate large number of hikers begin their AT thru-hike from Springer Mountain. I feel fortunate to be where I am, to be hiking with Subman and Suds, to be separated by one day's hiking (more or less) from many hikers who I know and increasingly care about. I am beyond convinced that, despite my intent, I'd have quickly abandoned my thru-hike if I had started my hike today. There's just no way I can see myself successfully navigating through the initial miles comfortably as so many seek shelter in the same area. The sheer number of hikers would've provided an adrenaline rush but I don't know how all those faces would've become meaningful people to me. I hiked today counting my blessings - Trail Chef has been such an important factor. He has enabled my hike, as have Subman and Suds. If months from now I am fortunate enough to have completed this thru-hike then it will be because of the experience and the kindness of these 3 people who have gotten me off to this start.A sprinking rain was refreshing but my stop at what Trail Chef described as "Niagara Falls" was memorable. Before I left it, Subman yelled to announce their arrival. Rembering Trail Chef say that he drank straight from this spring, we all savored this water. I drank handful after handful and actually lost sight of Subman and Suds because of lingering there so long. Today's views weren't as frequent as yesterday but they are special because each "Jump" view was shared with Subman and Suds. The first was the Jump-off after the Wesser Bald Shelter. I was a bit concerned based on Subman's description because of my fear of ledges. The turn's decent is a bit tricky and was the first time I used my butt. The second was the "Jump-up" and it provided a "Greylock" moment of accomplishment when we looked down where we had breakfast and across to the mountain we had climbed. Cheoh Bald seemed to never end and was celebrated with a group high-five. The decision to push on to Stecoah Gap had been made minutes earlier when Trail Chef confirmed he could pick us up. The sprinkles transitioned to rain and we're now chilling instead of comforting. Darkness came before sunset and the AT became treacherous. Rock sequences that are often fun in daylight were anything but that tonight. I had my first fall when my foot pushed through whatever I put it on. Fortunately I fell into dirt instead of rock that certainly would've caused a bruise, if not a break. Nothing to do but get up and get going. The descent wasn't over. I was grateful this day ended and grateful for its ups and downs.