Date: 2018-08-20
From: Speck Pond Shelter & Campsite

To: Frye Notch Lean-to
Miles today: 10.4

DAY 167We were both cold last night, nights like last night make me wish I had my 15 degree sleeping bag. Once we got up and moving and had tea and breakfast we warmed up quickly. Our first climb was Old Speck, Maine's third highest mountain, and another climb with exposed rock ledges that Purple Haze is not thrilled about. Once we made it through the exposed ledges the trail became easier and Purple Haze was more relaxed. On the way down into Grafton Notch we met a couple from Bethlehem NH celebrating the husbands 70th birthday. We told him he certainly didn't look 70, and wished him a happy birthday. They have done the 4,000 footers in NH and are working on Maine's peaks nowOur original plan was to make it to Andover without a resupply, however, since we've been doing less mileage due to the terrain, we are going to be short a dinner and certainly snacks. As we hiked we decided we would need to hitch into Bethel to purchase enough food to make it to Andover.As luck would have it, as we approached Grafton Notch Parking lot I saw a small sign on a tree that said "Trail Magic at the Prius". In the far corner of the parking lot was a Prius with an easy-up set up. A couple greeted us as we approached the easy-up. Right off I thought I recognized the guy, and asked him his trail name. He said "Bear Sweatz", and I said "I thought I recognized you, we hiked together in Maine in 2011!" Bear Sweatz remembered hiking with Mammoth and I, and after the AT he went on to hike the PCT, and then re-hiked the AT in 2016 with his wife "Tuff Broad". They were planning on doing the CDT this year, but since "Tuff Broad" is pregnant, they could only hike as long as their doctor recommended. So, not only did they have trail magic, but they also had brought their remaining food drop items remaining from their CDT hike. We enjoyed a couple hot dogs and sodas, and then selected some snacks and a dinner to get us to Andover. They had small containers of parmesan cheese, as well as some dehydrated veggies that we thought we be a good addition to our dinner. Can't thank Bear Sweatz and Tuff Broad enough for providing double trail magic. One a morale boosting meal and two saving us a 12 mile hitch in to Bethel and another hitch back which would have taken us the majority of the remainder of the day. We stayed and chatted with them for an hour or so before we finally headed back out on the trail. As we were making our way back across the parking lot we saw "Bugs" and "Jeans" spread out on the pavement. We asked how their slackpack over Moriah Wildcat Ridge went, and they told us not too good. Apparently "Shirtpants" twisted his ankle and is taking some time off trail to heal. We told them there was trail magic at the other end, and Bear Sweatz and Tuff Broad were looking for other hikers to enjoy their hot dogs etc... Jeans had thought it might be trail magic, but they hadn't seen the sign. They immediately headed down to enjoy some hot dogs and beverages.The hike up Baldpate West Peak wasn't too bad. It's a gradual climb and has a mostly tree-covered summit. Purple Haze likes climbs where she has trees around her better than those with exposed rock. Unfortunately Baldpate East Peak is open slab, and it took some handholding to get Purple Haze to the summit. The summit was beautiful with amazing 360 degree views. We took a break and enjoyed a snack while enjoying the views. The decent starts out not too bad, but then the trail becomes very steep with more exposed rock for trail. It was a slow descent as we made our way down to Frye Notch Lean-to.We arrived fairly late, and area had very few suitable tent sites. We finally decided on a spot right next to the trail and set up. Bugs & Jeans were set up in the shelter with a couple other hikers, one being a southbounder. Great water source, clear and cold. Quick dinner, once again it is getting dark and I hung the bear bag by headlamp. Off to bed, hoping to get to the second road crossing before we go into Andover tomorrow.Note from Mary: Amazingly enough, there were no other hikers to be seen as we hiked Baldpate today. I can only imagine if anyone had seen us hiking hand in hand over the slabs, maybe they would have thought "how romantic, look at them hiking hand in hand". And, I guess it was romantic in a way, so much love holding hands and hiking the AT.