Date: 2018-11-19
From: Iron mountain Gap

To: Indian Grave Gap
Miles today: 11.8

I woke up every 4 hours last night and dosed myself with NyQuil and went back to sleep. We slept in until 6am having a shorter hike today. Lee made us pancakes for breakfast and again I just love the real maple syrup. The weather was clear and it was 39° when we left the campground but it quickly dropped to 31° on the drive to Iron mountain Gap and back up to 38° at the trail head which made me smile. Another gorgeous day with a bit milder start...I'll take it! On the drive up Lee said she was going to find a liquor store. I'm smiling again. The trail started off descending out of Iron Mountain Gap but quickly changed direction and climbed up to 4,300'. Although Guthooks claimed a view I didn't see anything that wasn't obscured by trees. I immediately thought the climb must be Unaka mountain already and was disappointed to learn that was still over 5 miles away. 3.1 miles in we stopped at Cherry Gap shelter and enjoyed our hot cocoa and leftover garlic knots at the sunny picnic table. It was remarkable how much graffiti was on the shelter. Really disappointing and I wish it wasn't that way. None of it is necessary. One note about Tennessee shelters is that they don't have a privy. It's like inviting someone to your house for a sleepover and not letting them use your bathroom. I don't know why Tennessee is like that but it doesn't feel right not having a privy. From here it was a 4 mile ascent to the summit of Unaka mountain but at least for the majority of it the trail was gorgeous switchbacking thru rhododendron forest and pines accented with lush green moss which I haven't seen in a long time. The top of Unaka was a mossy pine forest and I thought it was beautiful but WE said it didn't "feel good" to her and so we didn't linger. On the descent we found a nice sunny spot with the perfect log for sitting on and enjoyed our lunch there. The temperature must have been 50° and I had already stripped down to one shirt on the climb up Unaka when I also had given myself the gift of music for the climb. We descended and had another ascent up to the appropriately named Beauty Spot which was a wonderful place to be to today. We passed only one person out for a walk from the parking lot there. We encountered no Tennessee mud today thankfully but we did have to endure seeing the guts of a deer discarded on both sides barely off the footpath. It was unfortunate. On the other side of the bald the trail descended 2 miles on wide trail down to Indian Grave Gap where we found a missionary Brother Tom with trail magic. He offered hot and cold beverages, fruit, brownies and other goodies. There were 4 sobo hikers there when we arrived all headed to Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky Hostel for the night. They told us about the hiker Thanksgiving feast in Hot Springs NC and they are going to be enjoying that while we're at Shirley's restaurant. I'm glad they will be able to celebrate the holiday with a traditional meal. I said goodbye to Brother Tom and climbed into the car with Lee who was waiting. WE hasn't had much trail magic so I was happy to see her smiling and refreshed by it emotionally and physically. Lee made us salmon cakes and pan fried potatoes with onions for dinner and we indulged after showers. It was really good. WE brought Romeo out to the pavilion near the bathhouse and trimmed his nails for which he put on so such a production that the woman in the office came out to see where the cat was screaming from. Embarrassed by his vocal ability I exited the area so I wouldn't be associated with what sounded like the torturing of a helpless cat. I like the little guy but really?Getting done with our hike early in the day leaves more time for relaxing and journaling. It's nice to have that. I'll turn in early tonight and sleep in until 6am again. Rain is forecast for tomorrow and we'll see what it looks like when we wake up. I've hiked over 1,500 miles now. WOW!