Date: 2016-05-27
From: Damascus

To: Bland VA
Miles today: 119.0
Weather: broken clouds

Wednesday ¢ May 14 ¢ Damascus Down DayToday was a down day. Commissioner decided we needed to have a real dinner and invited most of the hikers at Woodchuck hostel to join us at the Old Mill, a combination hotel and restaurant/bar. About 15 people showed up. As I looked around there was no DQ or Bandito or Socks, etc. Trail Days completely disrupted the hiking patterns and for the first time since starting the hike in Georgia I was now sitting with people I never met before or even knew their trail names. At first it was awkward and uncomfortable trying to talk with people I did not know. I was quietly pouting missing the people that I became comfortable around and now I felt like the fifth wheel. At my table was Swamp Fox, a 70 something section hiker that since 2013 has been completing sections of the trail and already completed nearly 1600 miles of it. Salsa was a 30something wife of a marine stationed at Quantico, while Chaco and Headshot were friends completing the trail together. Karma was a 20 something woman that I came across way back before Great Smokey Mountains. The only person I had a connection with was Commissioner.We got to the restaurant around 5pm and you could see the town was still recovering from Trail Days. The place was woefully understaffed and the hostess was also the waitress and bartender. She let us know that service was slow but we did not mind. AS the evening progressed, we began a game of answering questions like which section of the trail did you hat the most, or, what was the best trail magic you encountered. Within an hour I all but forgot that the people I knew were no longer around and most likely not to be seen again. Having a common agenda complete with stories of pain and agony interspersed with fun and laughing quickly was the glue that bonded people together. We sat there well past 10 pm just talking and by the end of the evening I was thrilled to meet new people with the hopes of seeing them on the trail.Thursday ¢ May 19 ¢ Damascus to Lost Mountain ¢ 11.5 milesToday began the push for Grayson Highlands State Park three days out. This place has been advertised since the beginning as one of the most beautiful spots, a high mountain area above 5000 feet with huge open fields and wild horses running everywhere. I was excited to see something different then what is becoming a boring daily ritual of hiking on top of ridges in a tunnel of green on a terrible trail with deep ruts up to two feet deep and five feet across completely eroded away leaving rocks, roots and fallen trees to weave through. Worse was on rainy days where the trail would literally turn into a river of swift flowing mud. The culprit is not overuse but the trail itself. Whoever planned the route decided that each and every single peak had to be climbed resulting in paths straight down the mountain and ripe for erosion. I found it interesting while in town that the front page of the local newspaper was addressing that very problem and the permanent environmental damage that will take centuries to recover from. I assumed the trail would follow gorgeous rivers and streams or through thick forest. That vision quickly evaporated as the entire trail so far is always following the top of every ridge and to every mountain top, a policy that is both brutal with no purpose and unacceptable damage to our forest. AS I hiked the rain began and clouds moved in quickly. While on the trail outside of Damascus I came to an intersection with a blue blaze trail, a local trail, and I could hear children playing in the distance. Riley and I needed a break and lunch so I took the blue blaze and within a 100 yards there lay a small community with a restaurant along the Virginia Creeper Trail. The Virginia Creeper Trail in a converted railroad route into a hiking and biking trail and literally paralleled the Appalachian by about a 100 yards. It is 34 miles long. A huge sign stated ¢The world¢s best chocolate cake¢ and what could be more enticing to a hiker than food, especially dessert. So Riley and I decided to eat there and yes the cake was awesome. I downed it with a huge glass of milk, something I had not had in 45 days. I sat outside under a shelter and cold see both the Creeper trail and the Appalachian trail running next to it other than the Appalachian was at the top of the ridge about a 100 feet higher and could hear hikers talking. Other hikers also stopped and we decided to follow the Creeper for a couple of miles to rejoin the Appalachian rather than backtrack. That was a great decision as the Creep followed a mountain rive full with waterfalls, beaver dams, trout fisherman, etc. I began to question the wisdom of the AT planners on why the need to create a second trail right next to such an awesome trail bypassing everything it had to offer. When we did reconnect , once again back onto a rutted trail with nothing to see other than your feet and rocks and mud.Got to Lost Mountain Shelter and settled in for the night. Rain was intermittent. Another hiker named Mayo was playing his guitar to 70s and 80s rock classics. He was a pretty good player and I enjoyed the music. Another hiker came in announcing the forecast was for rain all day Friday and Saturday with very cold temps in the mountains. Friday ¢ May 20th ¢ Lost Mountain to Thomas Knob in Grayson Highlands State ParkRain was already heavy when I woke up and I knew today was going to be a miserable day. A huge hike up to 5500 feet in constant rain, high winds and mud everywhere. Crossed an open field where horses ran and Riley promptly rolled on his back in horse poop. But of course he did ! Got to Thomas Knob after 13 grueling miles of slippery, rocky, washed out hiking. My boot and pant were covered in mud and I was soaked through and through from both rain and sweat. Riley promptly fell asleep and I decided we were going to sleep in the shelter rather than set up the tent. That turned out to be the right decision. By 5:30 the fog was so thick you could not see 50 feet. Winds were whipping and it rained all night long. The shelter had two levels enough to accommodate 16 hikers. We were full and as new hikers came along they had to continue hiking to the next shelter 10 miles away. I felt sorry for them but glad I settled here as Commissioner and I briefly pondered attempting to hike on today. WE sat in the shelter talking but by 7pm everyone decided to go o sleep as there was nothing else to do other than try to stay warm and dry. It poured all night including thunderstorms and temps in the upper 30s.Saturday ¢ May 21 ¢ Thomas Knob through Sunday May 22The original plan from Thomas Knob was to enter the state park and see all of the wonders and wld horses but that was not to be. WE had two options, hike in the heavy rain and fog and miss everything or simply shortcut across to where the trail exited the park and head down into the small town of Troutville where a church ran a hiker hostel. I decided to head for the hostel with the intent of trying to hitch a ride back up tomorrow and slack pack the section we skipped. It was twelve miles down the mountain and into the town. AS we descending we came across a foal and its parents. Riley started to approach the foal and dad quickly stepped between Riley and the small horse. It took a very defensive and menacing stance and I knew that if Riley got closer he would get kicked. I kept yelling at him to heal all while grabbing him. The hostel was very well maintained and nice. We go there midafternoon so decided to hitch a ride into Marion 16 miles away to get a hot dinner and resupply at the local Walmart Superstore there. We got picked up within minutes as most people know there are AT hikers everywhere. After dinner and shopping we got another ride back to the hostel from a local who told me the forecast for Sunday was sunny and warmer ¢ just what I hoped for.Sunday morning came and the sky was still cloudy and misting. I could see breaks and had high hopes for a clear day. Around 8 the preacher¢s wife came up to the hostel with an breakfast egg dish, pancakes, fruit and coffee. What a great surprise. We all felt a little guilt knowing services would start soon so we decided to be respectful and sit on the Sunday services. I even brought Riley into the church. The pastor welcomed all of the hikers there as we nearly outnumbered the locals. Until now I forgot that I was in the Bible Belt of America where religion and Christianity is the centerpiece of many small communities. The sermon was a typical fire and brimstone speech on sinning. I think he may have been talking about me as I kept looking at the sky through the windows expecting a lightning bolt to come through and strike me. Cool Hand was also there so after services Cool Hand and Commissioner decided to hitch back to Marion while myself and Karma hitched a ride back up to Grayson Highlands State Park. We covered the 13 miles we missed the day before in five hours and got to see everything I had hoped for. The weather was perfect and Riley had a field day chasing everything that moved. I only brought a raincoat, come food and water and was able to move quickly without 40 pounds on my back. Karma and I got back to the park parking lot around 7pm and there were only five cars left in the lot that was full when we first got there. We panicked a little as the temperature was dropping fast and the sun setting behind the mountain. This was a dead end road and there would be no traffic to try and hitch back to the hostel. A local trail runner came and we asked if he could give us a ride down at least to a major cross road. At first he was hesitant because he had a large dog and it appeared Riley and the dog would not get along. AT first he walked away but returned about five minutes later indicating he wanted to see if the dogs would get along as he knew that our chances of getting down that night were running out quickly. Good thing the two dogs liked each other. He was a local attorney and he knew Karma from her blog as he was interested in reading the hiker blogs. We had a great conversation and he took us directly back to the hostel, going out of his way. I tried to give him gas money but he refused.Commissioner was already at the hostel with 10 Arby Roast Beef Sandwiches for us. A perfect finish to what turned out to be a perfect and fun day.Monday ¢ May 23 through Friday 27 ¢ Troutdale to Bland ¢ MM 589Monday morning up and out back to the trail. At the trail head was more Trail Magic and a Trail Angle handing out breakfast of Sausage and Biscuit Gravy, OJ, fruit and coffee. We ate then headed out. After 8.5 miles we crossed the road we started from just tow miles further down. What !!! 8.5 miles yet only two miles from where we started. Yes more of that destructive trail routing to hit every single top and ridge. We snaked back and forth without missing a peak, bypassing other options along a river of course. I am beginning to get bored seeing the same thing every day, especially knowing there is a lot more beauty that is being bypassed just to stay on the top of every mountain and ridge. Stopped for the night about 4 miles past Trimpi Shelter in a campground. For the first time in weeks the wood was dry enough to start a campfire. Two other hikers joined us and we sat around the fire and chatted until bedtime.Tuesday was a plan to hike 17 miles into Atkins as Karma was having new poles sent to her there. It was a long day but not too much up and down as in past day. I reached the Mount Rodger National Wilderness Headquarters around noon and took a visit. A shelter was set up there as well that included running toilets, shower, power, etc. Even firewood was there. This was one of the best shelters I have seen to date. I continued another 9 miles into Atkins. I came across a Settlers Museum a couple miles short of Atkins. Trail Magic was set up so another free and highly welcomed lunch and snacks. Niothing taste better than a cold soda after hiking 14 miles in warm weather. Both Commissioner and Karma were already there in town when I arrived around 7pm. We split the cost of a cheap hotel called the Relax Inn and went over to the gas station next door where there was also a Mexican diner. For 7 bucks is was a great meal and lots of it. I bought a couple of bottles of Henry¢s Hard Ginger Ale and relaxed back at the hotel giving Marilee a call. We had not chatted in almost a week and I was missing her.Wednesday departed Atkins for Knot Mall Gap. Not feeling well and had an upset stomach all day. Hoped it was not Norivirus ¢ which it turned out not to be. Commissioner and Karma remained at Atkins still waiting her poles. Nothing new about the hike today but had great weather. I crossed a road about three miles short of the Gap where Trail Angels were again set up. Riley and I stopped for food and of course a cold soda. They were telling me about two new hostels that just opened in the area including one called the Appalachian Dreamer Hiker Hostel which picked up hikers at several crossings. Around 5:30 I reached one of the crossing knowing the shuttle would come by in a few minutes and pondered just going to a hostel for the night. I was exhausted and I could see Riley beginning to show signs of fatigue from 8 straight days of hiking without a break. At the last second I decided to head for the shelter instead.Woke up Thursday morning and regretting my decision to not go to the hostel. Every muscle ached and Riley literally skipped dinner the night before and fell asleep for 14 straight hours. Today was going to be hot and humid ¢ a first on this hike. We took off and got to a USFS road after 6 miles around noon to stop for lunch. Another hiker I have seen before was there and tried to go on up a big 4500 foot climb but returned 30 minutes later unable to climb because of an injury. We chatted as she was trying to figure how to get down into a town to see a doctor as she had injured her ankle and it was swollen. I told her about the hostel and how close it was. I could see she needed help and that was enough of an excuse for me to stop hiking and go back to that hostel. I needed a day off as everything hurt and I was simply out of steam and emotionally drained. I indicated if she could walk about three or four miles on the dirt road we would get to the cross street where the hostel van picked up hikers. Off we went but within five minutes a truck came from behind and gave us a ride down the mountain.When we got down, she went on to the next town where there was a clinic but to my benefit there was a hiker I ran across several times over the last two months. He is a retired Marine Sergeant Major there with his girlfriend. He also injured his knee when he fell and was taking a few days off. His girlfriend brought him a knee brace to continue after he rested a few days. I was able to slackpack 26 miles over the remainder of today and tomorrow covering the first 12 miles in just four hours getting back before dinner and the next morning covering the 14 miles also under 4 hours as it was all downhill ¢ and without 40 pounds on my back. Riley and I flew and were done just after lunchtime ¢ still early enough to get to the library in Bland VA to update my journal. Riley and I are holed up in a little hotel here and will take tomorrow, Saturday off at a minimum. I am not sure where Commissioner and Karma are but I left him a text that I am in town.