Date: 2005-07-31
From: Williams Lake Resort - Rosendale, NY

To: Seth Warner Shelter
Miles today: 6.9
Weather: few clouds

Seth Warner Shelter 8:10pm - Grey Sky EyesUnfortunately, I left the Birdcage without getting a chance to thank Rob for his hospitality. I wanted to get an early start. I didn't know how far I'd make it, and I wanted to keep my options open. My Dad has a cousin, Lee, who lives in North Adams and invited me to stay for a night. However, North Adams is 23.5 miles from Dalton and includes a 2,500 foot climb over Mt. Greylock, the highest point in Massachusetts. After putting in a twenty the day before, I didn't know if I had it in me to reach North Adams. I figured I might bail out at the hostel on top of Greylock if I was tired or short on daylight.Thus, I left Dalton shortly after eight in order to maximize my chances of reaching North Adams. The walk to Cheshire was easy - even though I only walked at a comfortable pace. I was still there by 11:15. I bounced my stove ahead at the PO to Glencliff, saw a giant cheese press, and discovered that the local pizza joint makes pretty good cheesesteaks. At 12:45pm, I started the ascent up Greylock.Greylock was a much easier climb than I expected. It was high, but spread out over a long ways. The trail was smooth, and the temperatures cool. By the time I reached the top, I was barely sweating.The top was a very beautiful location. A large stone tower had been erected, providing views in all directions. It was a crystal clear afternoon and I took full advantage of it. There was also a base relief map of the mountain at the foot of the tower. I'm of the opinion that they should be erected every twenty miles along the trail. Finally, the top is home to Bascom Lodge, a large stone lodge erected by the CCC. Today it offers reasonably priced lodging, but I was not to use it. I felt good and there was plenty of daylight left. I called Lee on the lodge's payphone and left a message that I'd be arriving that night.I had scarcely started down when I passed a stone warming hut built for skiers but primarily used today by thru-hikers as a stealth camping spot. Then things got hard. The northern side of Greylock was worlds apart from the southern face; it was rocky and steep, dropping 1,500 feet in under two miles in one place. I took a break halfway down on a rocky outcropping surveying the valley below, and ate the calzone I had picked up at lunch.Finally, I reached town. I passed the Batmobile as I walked a short ways to the local Stop-n-shop. As I had hoped, I was able to find a payphone there. I called Lee - there was no answer. I tried again, but had the same result. Undaunted, I decided to kill some time by reading. Half an hour later, with dusk approaching, I tried a final time. No answer. I redialed - no answer. I decided that if Lee didn't answer on my third and final try then I'd hitch to North Adams and find a motel room. Lee answered.I don't believe I'd ever met Lee before, but he was as kind and accomodating as if we were life long friends. That's family for you. He picked me up and brought me to his house, showing me the town en route and explaining some local history. Basically, North Adams is a dead mill town revitalized by a humongous contemporary art museum. We drove past it and it is quite a sight to behold from outside. Perhaps someday I'll even get to see the inside.We talked for some time that evening, catching up on the past 25 years or so. Eventually, I faded and settled into a soft bed in the guest bedroom for a good night's sleep. I had travelled 44 miles in two days and was aware of every mile.