Date: 2013-03-21
From: Roan High Knob

To: Mountain Harbour Hostel
Miles today: 16.5

As I awoke in the night several times I could feel it getting colder by the hour, and I started noticing flurries outside the window (the shelter is fully enclosed with a door and has two stories) of the second floor. By the morning I estimated the temperature near or below zero, as even in my zero degree sleeping bag I could feel the grasp of old man winter as I struggled to stay warm. I ventured outside to grab my food bag finding everything coated in an inch or two of snow, shivering as I returned to my sleeping bag. I knew eating some food was the key to getting some needed warmth, so I temporarily sacrificed my fingers for the sake of stuffing down some pop tarts and candy bars. I climbed back into my bag for a few minutes of warmth before surging the energy necessary to pack up my stuff and hit the trail. I always find the hardest part of packing up in the cold is layering down. I keep all of my camp layers in a dry bag which I pack in the middle o my pack, and seeing that I will never dare to hike in them I am always forced to remove them halfway through the packing process. But this is my own choice, so I deal with it daily and have gotten used to it. When I left the shelter and reached the main trail I noticed a set of footprints descending from the top of the peak. It was 830 in the morning and I doubt anyone would have hit the trail at Hughes gap early enough to reach here, especially given the conditions. My mind jumped straight to Arrowhead, who I figured had most likely pitched his tent at the clearing atop the knob. As I made my way down the mountain in hopes of catching Arrowhead my hands were completely numb. Although I wanted desperately to warm them by clenching a fist inside my gloves, the snow covered ice demanded my full attention and use of both trekking poles. Halfway down the mountain I realized I had some hand warmer pouches in my pack, so I stopped to activate them. When I reached Carver's Gap I saw a thermometer siting in the sun reading a mere 8 degrees above zero. It was also at this time that I noticed the set of footprints stopped at the gap and did not continue up round knob. I assume Arrowhead must have bailed given the weather, or perhaps he never scaled Roan and stayed at the hostel after being given warnings of the ensuing cold. As I climbed up round bald the wind began whipping at what seemed about 15-20mph. Luckily the trail wound in and out of the woods so I was able to get some relief from the wind at times, but once I reached the top of the bald I began my long day of almost constant exposure to the elements. The section of the AT after Roan High Knob travels across several balds, rolling up and down their exposed summits. Normally the vistas would be spectacular, and despite the snow and wind I actually got some pretty cool views in of the valleys. As I worked my way across the peaks the wind was blowing hard in one direction and slamming the left side of my face with icy air. Everything to my left was completely clouded in, but the valleys to my right were in the sun. Beautiful though it was, most of my focus was on completing the climbs and getting out of the wind. After the second bald the trail finally descends into the woods towards the Stan Murray and Overmountain shelters. I hadn't had any water all day as I could find none atop Roan, and when I finally found a stream after the second bald I discovered my aquamira drops were frozen solid. Considering I was at almost 6000' and desperately thirsty I decided to chance it and drank right from the stream. After making my way downhill I stopped at the Stan Murray shelter for a much needed food break. It was here that I decided the cold was just to much for me to want to endure and I needed a way out. Unfortunately it was over two more balds and down a long descent towards US 19. I passed the turnoff for the overmountain shelter and worked my way up little hump, glancing back at pleasant views of the valley and of the overmountain shelter. The first 3/4 of the approach up little hump was very nice and the wind had died down so I was able to stop and enjoy some of the scenery. When I reached the top of little hump the wind picked up and started whipping again. The trail winds down into the woods for a small time before heading back into an exposed gap and heading up hump mountain. As I headed up hump mountain the wind picked up with strong gusts over 40mph putting the wind chill well below zero. I was able to stop part way up the peak, hovering behind a rock for some partial protection from the wind. I ate some snacks and took a few sips of water, then headed back into the wind. Shortly after i found myself at the top of hump mountain, only to find that the backside would be equally as exposed. I hurried down and eventually made it to the safety of the woods. As I descended the temperature rose and the sun starting shining, and it made for a pleasant stroll downhill. A few miles south of US 19 I reached the NC/TN border and officially left NC for the last time. The trail continued downhill, and the steep grade took a toll on my heels. Alas, I made it to route 19 and hiked the .3 miles to the hostel. Once I arrived there I met fellow thru-hiker Herb who had gotten injured and just returned from nursing his knee in Florida. The owner gave us a shuttle into town and we enjoyed a scrumptious dinner at the local BBQ restaurant. Upon our return we got a fire going in the wood furnace and then hit the sack.