Date: 2018-11-25
From: Little Laurel Shelter

To: Laughing Heart Hostel, Hot Springs, NC
Miles today: 20.0

The mice were having a party in the stone shelter last night. I could hear them chewing and running around. I woke up before 4 a.m. expecting to still see fog outside. I was very delighted to see moonlight through the trees. After coffee, packing up and hitting my head on the shelter's low roof beams several times I was on the trail at 4:58 a.m. The moon was shining brightly. Venus was visible above the eastern horizon. Looks like a beautiful day is awakening. After daylight arrived I could see the mountain tops were in the clear while the valleys held fog. Some of the valleys looked like vast lakes as the fog covered the lowlands. The warmth of the sunshine felt good. The trail was in very good condition and I was making good time. I estimated I'd reach Hot Springs at approximately 4 p.m. I walked in shorts all day. I started out with my rain top over my jacket over my vest over my long sleeve over my sleeveless. In the afternoon I only had the sleeveless on. Late in the afternoon a big calorically-challenged Border Collie appeared out of nowhere in front of me. It was slightly playful but afraid of me. As I walked it would back up. Once it backed right into a tree. Another time it backed over the bank. I finally got around it, then it sat down as I went on. Then it caught up to me. A short time later its owner hiked by and the dog joined him. At the last climb before the descent into Hot Springs it became very windy. I had to put my long sleeve shirt on. I dropped down out of the wind as the trail entered the French Broad River valley. At Lovers Leap a family of four were enjoying the view and sunshine as I took a picture of Hot Springs. They asked me a lot of questions about my trip like: when did I start, when do I expect to finish. They congratulated me. I continued on the trail downhill to another vista. Another family of four was enjoying the views and the day. They asked me similar questions about my trip as the other family did and offered congratulations. As I left and headed downhill it finally hit me that this long journey would soon be over and tears came to my eyes. I told myself to knock it off. No emotions. Big boys don't cry. All was well again. A man, perhaps in his 70's was coming up the hill using trekking poles. I moved out of the way because on the trail people ascending have the right-of-way. He stopped and asked about my trip, too. When he left he patted me on my shoulder with his left hand and said "Congratulations." That kind gesture caused me to lose my emotions. I am so grateful for making it this far. I want it to end but I don't want it to end. I am so tired. As I dropped down to the French Broad River I could see it running high. The water was right up to the top of its banks. All I could hear is the roaring river to my left as I walked to the highway bridge contemplating the conclusion of this journey. I crossed the bridge over the river at 3:15. Near the railroad tracks a group was decorating a tree for Christmas. Some turned to look at me and as I waved they returned the wave. I walked through the little town amazed at all the people shopping or going to a busy restaurant. A large tree was already decorated for Christmas and a Nativity was on display. Yes, I thought, Christmas is not far away. I stopped at Dollar General for Hot Pockets, mouth wash, BBQ chips and milk. I figured I would not want to venture out tonight from the hostel. I was tempted to stop at the Smoky Mountain Diner but when I checked the hours it was closed Sundays. I'll be there for breakfast in the morning. I walked up NC 209. The town has the Appalachian Trail logo embedded into the sidewalks. After crossing the road I walked up 50 steps (I always count steps) and there was Laughing Heart Hostel. I got a private room. The room, a shower and laundry for $40. I haven't had a shower or had laundry done in 11 days. I did not like the smell when I was in my sleeping bag. It's been too cold to jump in a creek. I took a long shower. I did laundry. The washer is inside the hostel and the dryer is outside. After all was done I was glad to be clean and dry once again. And a day ahead of schedule. As of now I'll enter the Great Smoky Mountains National Park Wednesday morning. My worry concerning the park is that it is the highest part of the trail and it is late November. However the weather kind of looks good regarding precipitation except for Saturday, which would be the day I exit the park. In the park you MUST stay IN the shelters unless they are full; then you can tent outside. I'd rather stay in my tent because it's 10-15 degrees warmer. It will be cold up there. My strategy is to camp just outside the park Tuesday night. Wednesday and Thursday I'll be at shelters. Friday night I'll be at a park tent site down 2,000' in elevation. Then out of the park Saturday. Clingmans Dome is in the Smoky's and is the highest point on the Appalachian Trail at 6,643'. It will be cold and Jack Frost will be nipping at more than my nose. I'm a little concerned but will persevere. When I cross Fontana Dam at the park's southern boundary I'll only have 166 miles to go.