Date: 2004-05-02
From: Overmountain Shelter

To: Mountaineer Waterfall
Miles today: 17.2

Today has been a long and very good day. I started at Overmountain Shelter with Spot, Milo, Flamingo Joe and surrounded by a whole crowd of Boy Scouts and their leaders. Overmountain is an old barn converted to a shelter. It has a loft that would hold probably two dozen hikers. The lower section has one side of the barn removed to about 8 feet high and sleeping platforms built in about 4 feet above ground. The four of us slept there. We had an open view to the high meadow above, and down to the settlement in the valley. The clouds were drifting by and it was a beautiful setting. When I awoke this morning there was dim light and heavy fog/mist drifting by right out from our sleeping area, and sometimes right in to where we were laying in our sleeping bags. Flamingo Joe said he had fog between his eyes and the page he was writing on. It had rained from about 4:00 a.m. until first dim light. I got organized quickly and ate breakfast, packed up and was ready by 7:30. I wanted an early start because I needed to hike 17+ miles today, something that concerned me after the tough day yesterday at only 12.9 miles. I said goodbye and left to climb out of the shelter area back up to the trail. The first part of the hike was across the high meadow that was so pretty the night before. Spot had left before me, and I saw him earlier as a tiny speck moving across the grassy mountainside. Now it was my turn. I got some pictures from up there, then I was soon engulfed in a fog and had no more views back to the shelter. At the main ridge of Little Hump Mountain, I was able to get cell phone service so I called Marlene and caught up on things with her. It was SO good to hear her voice. I gave her the information on my progress so far and we talked awhile. Then I had to go, both for the long day ahead, and to conserve the phone battery. Flamingo Joe and Milo passed me while I was stopped to make the phone call. As I approached the final summit of Little Hump Mountain, I began to have high winds and heavy fog. Sometimes it would open up a little and it was beautiful as the sunlight and blue sky broke through the clouds right at my level. After that I descended into the dip between Little Hump Mountain and Hump Mountain itself. In that low spot the clouds made a flat gray ceiling some distance above me, and the summit of Hump Mountain was sliced off as it rose up through that ceiling. I had read that this mountain and the surrounding terrain is situated such that it sometimes almost creates its own weather system and I anticipated what was about to come. I began a seemingly never-ending climb up Hump Mountain, watching as I approached that spot where I too would disappear into the massive bulk of the cloud that seemed to press down on the mountain. Soon the winds were so high that I was nearly blown over. It was raining lightly on and off, or maybe not really a falling rain, but it was more like there were some raindrops in the cloud and they were being blown around, but not really falling like regular rain. I was socked in a cloud with limited sight, sometimes only a few feet. That made it hard to judge progress because I could not see where the mountain top was located. I would only get a perspective when I could dimly see huge rock outcroppings in the otherwise grassy mountainside at several points along the ascent, beginning in the distance very obscure if the fog thinned a little, and coming into focus as I made my way. Other times I would suddenly find myself in front of the massive rocks without warning. It was wild and boisterous weather, but exhilarating, and I was enjoying it. Accurately describing the conditions is in no way meant to give the impression that it was anything less than a fantastic experience. Once on top the summit is broad and long, so I hiked in the cold windy raindrop-filled cloud for a good distance before a gradual descent began. I must have been right at the level where the clouds and clear sky above would meet. Sometimes it was dark gray all around me, and then the bright almost golden light would break through for a fraction of a second, or occasionally a little longer. The brilliance of that light mixed with just the hint of a blue sky above and the suddenly bright white of the clouds was startling and awesome. It was so beautiful up there that it was almost an emotional low point to leave the summit, even though the environment was not optimal for creature comforts. I approached a split rail fence at the edge of the grassy pastureland and turned to look back into the swirling mass of clouds and light, now just slightly above me again. With one last glimpse of that sight and the memory of the sheer force of the wind, I wondered if on some frail and human level I had just experienced a taste of the power and glory of God. Soon after I left the open exposed heights and entered the trees at the edge of the meadow, that cover sheltered me from the wind. It was noticeably quieter almost right away. On a 2000 mile journey afoot you mark many highlights, and wonder in your mind if the challenge of that distance will ever allow you to pass back this way. My memory can try to retain the experience, but the rest of me wants to experience it for real again, sometime. Some longhorn cattle are pastured in this area, but with the bad weather, I suspected they were down on some lower part of the mountainside for protection. I wanted to see them, so I was disappointed. I guess they have horns that span over seven feet. From there it was about 5 miles to the Apple House Shelter. It was all downhill on some steep, rocky, slippery and treacherous terrain. It took until 12:30 to reach the shelter, about 1/2 mile south of highway 19E and the Elk Park North Carolina area. I stopped to rest and decided to cook lunch there. I left about 1:30 and soon came to the road (19E). Crossing, I began a climb up a knob and over to a small paved side road. Crossing it, I began a steep ascent above a nice stream. This area has some history of dissatisfaction with the Appalachian Trail being there, since the land was acquired in somewhat of a heavy-handed manner, and they are reputed to be "retaliating" by dumping trash in the area. The far side of the stream had a long high bank, maybe 100 feet high. It was littered with everything from old appliances to kitchen trash. I think the high bank must be accessible from the small paved road above, so they dump it and the trash just rolls down the side all the way to the water. A huge mess. After that I had a pleasant afternoon walking through remote mountain meadows and pastures, dotted with clumps of trees, and watered by a meandering stream. Very picturesque. The hiking was fairly easy (just long) after a tough morning of climbs. I took a side trail to Jones Falls. It is a 100 foot high waterfall that cascades over a high ledge to a lower ledge and on down the rock face. There is a large broken off chunk of stone perched on the lower ledge, still 50 feet above me, and the water swirled out away from the rock face and splashed back several times during its wild ride to the bottom. It was one of the most beautiful falls I have ever seen. It was loud and I could hear it a long ways before I got to it. As I left I hiked around to the other side of a large canyon and could catch glimpses of the high parts of the falls above the trees from several points along the way. Still very loud as the sound echoed off the sides of the large bowl-shaped cove in the mountain side. The rest of the hike was fairly uneventful. I arrived at the campsite around 6:00. I am camped alone tonight, so far at least. I am eating my Rice-a-Roni as I write. There is another waterfall about 100 yards away, Mountaineer Waterfall, and I can hear its sound as I sit in the otherwise quiet forest. I am well satisfied with today. I was concerned that I might not be able to hike this distance but I did fine. Today is Sunday and, as usual, I thought about the Sunday routine and the church service most of the morning. I think the choir was singing the musical "My Utmost For His Hightest" in a combined service, so I thought about that alot. I sang choruses and hymns to myself as I hiked along. It was a good day. I was so happy to get to talk to Marlene, but it's hard right after we hang up. It was good though. I went to the waterfall again to do dishes and clean up. Now everything is set for the night. I am in my tent. It is 8:30 and the darkness is beginning to set in around me. The campsite is on a hill above the trail to the left, and it is accessed via a steep side trail. The forest is close in on all sides. It looks like I will be alone tonight. I can't imagine anyone coming in this late to such a remote place. Tomorrow will be another long day - 15+ miles. I hope to stay at Kincora Hostel, pick up my mail drop, shower, do laundry and eat restaurant food. Looking forward to that. Will spend some time in the New Testament and then read some more in the Heavilin's book. Goodnight Sweetheart. PS I forgot to mention that this part of the trail has been relocated. It is several miles longer than the original trail but it now includes the Jones Falls area, this campsite near Mountaineer Waterfall, and there was a quiet and picturesque walk beside the Elk River. The river seemed remote, and it alternately was glassy and quiet or rough white water over a rocky riverbed. It was another highlight of the day. This is a new campsite. It shows very little wear from foot traffic. The clearing is big enough for my tent and a small sitting area by the fire ring. Very little of the wood has been gathered for a fire, unlike at more established tent sites. I may be among the first to use it.