Date: 2013-04-19
From: Tellico Gap, Aquone Hostel

To: Tellico Gap, Aquone Hostel
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

I may amend this entry, but as of now (8:30 AM), I am seriously considering staying another night at the hostel. I am utterly frustrated at my lack of progress and the possibility of another day of waiting around, but it is storming outside and I am inside and I may very well choose to sit tight for another day.But while I have time, I have something I have been wanting to discuss. Every year, many, many hikers start the AT at Springer Mountain, GA, and quit within the first three days. Probably for many it was an impulsive decision to hike the trail and they were just ill-prepared. But most who quit seem to have been planning for a long time, and well-equipped with gear. I was trying to figure out the high dropout rate, and I really think that journal writers like myself are part of the reason. I don't think we do a good job of explaining just how hard it is to hike the trail. We don't mean to sugar-coat it, it just happens. Here is what I think:When I hike all day and then write my journal entry at the end of the day, I naturally first briefly describe the terrain I hiked over, my miles, the weather, etc. And then for the bulk of my entry I tell about the highlights of my day, whether that be a beautiful natural event like the tree falling, an encounter with other hikers that is funny or touching, or whatever other event that is worth retelling. But what I (and other journal writers) don't write about is the miles and miles, hours and hours, of walking, trudging, plodding, sweating, straining, grunting, groaning, freezing, and shivering, that makes up the bulk of my day. That doesn't make interesting reading (or writing). So I think that the impression that is given by reading a journal is that the hike is one funny, interesting, quirky, beautiful moment after another, while the reality is that all those moments happen, but they are the punctuation marks to an existence of intense physical effort. One book that I read, the author described backpacking as "hours of utter boredom broken occasionally by moments of intense terror." I don't agree with that description on either end, but if you strip away the hyperbole, that is it. I don't find the hiking to be utter boredom, and I haven't yet had a moment of terror, but it is true that the highlights are just that---highlights, and not the norm for the day. So if you are considering hiking the AT, be realistic in your expectations that it is truly physically hard, even for the young and fit, and that most hours of the day are taken up by hiking with your head down, and not by hysterical moments around the campfire at night (although those happen too, and on a daily basis) and you will be a little more emotionally prepared for the journey.Here is what it is like to hike: I walk with my head down, looking at my feet and the ground just ahead of them. You have to, the path is seldom (never) smooth. It is full of rocks, and roots, and mud puddles. So my head stays down except for the brief look at the trail just ahead of me every few minutes to see what new surprises are waiting. It takes constant focus on my footing. There could be a family of bears sitting right beside the trail having a picnic, and I wouldn't see them. When I want to take a look around at the beauty surrounding me, I have to find a place with fairly level, stable ground, stop walking completely, plant both trekking poles firmly in the ground, and then raise my head. I do this very often, though. I look around and catch my breath and thank God for all.....this, for the beauty, and the freedom, and for the opportunity to appreciate them. Then I put my head back down and continue walking.Except for today, when there will be no walking, and I am frustrated. But the Aquone hostel is a beautiful place to wait out a storm, there is a shelf full of books, and a big tv, and a couple of excellent gentlemen hikers from the Gulf Coast to talk to, and I know I am fortunate to be here, and tomorrow I will hike the 8 or so miles to the NOC in a sunny, 60 degree weather. But for now, maybe my toes that got bruised on the long downhill into Tellico Gap will have a chance to heal. Thank you all for your comments in the guest book. I do read them all and I love that you are following along with me, wishing me well and encouraging me, and even answering my questions about the things I don't know. Tomorrow--onward!