Date: 2014-07-14
From: Neumann Tent Site

To: Osgood Campsite
Miles today: 14.9
Weather: light rain

I'm running low on adjectives similar to brutal. The end of today was brutal. That's all I can describe it as. And it's too bad because the beginning started out kind of spectacular. Woke up really early with this crazy northern sun. About 5, but set my alarm for six. Unfortunately (or fortunately) when I'm up I'm up so I waited about ten minutes then decided to just get up. There was a very thin layer of clouds but you could tell the sun was going to shine good today. All around though drops are falling off branches and limbs. Today is a monumental day psychologically. In the South, the Smokies were this big mental barrier to moving forward. They sort of blocked the rest of the trail and I didn't feel like I was really deep in, until after I passed them. The Whites are similar. They're the last big obstacle before Maine and the remaining 300 miles. And the biggest and baddest is Mt Washington. Well over 6000 feet and "the worlds worst" weather. Plus it's not as if it's up and over and done. There's a long arduous climb over several other mountains until you get to Washington and several after. All of them, for about twelve or more miles, is above tree line. Rocky and exposed, windy and amazing views. This morning did not disappoint. I got very lucky I'd say to have this spectacular break in the weather. It was bright and sunny and breezy and as soon as I hit tree line I could see for miles and miles, including the long view up to Washington. I needed a wind jacket it was so cool. At the base of the final climb up Washington is a must stop - Lake of the Clouds hut. This is the most popular and for good reason. What a setting. In a wide and open saddle with long views all the way down to base level. I dropped my pack and stepped inside and immediately hear "Dune!" What do ya know it's Handsome Dan. Haven't seen him since New York. He did a work for stay so I joined him and a few others on the hike up. Not before checking the weather. Deep breath, today looks ok. Chance for light rain later. But tomorrow - well getting back on schedule might be ending. Big chance for rain "heavy at times" and thunderstorms. Joy. Already when I leave the hut clouds have rolled up and are hovering over Washington. Can't see it. Time to ascend. Way up here there are no trees to put blazes on so they have built rock cairns to guide the way. Most of the rock is a grayish color but there are the odd chunks of white marble and the put one big chunk about bowling ball size on each cairn like a beacon. Cool. Because it was so socked in I really couldn't see where I was and the weather towers and visitor buildings just popped out of nowhere. There's a road and railroad to the top for the tourists and it is so jarring (and oddly discouraging) to do all that work to get there only to see people in flip flops and sweatshirts. This is where I decide I really don't care how bad I stink or crazy I look you can deal with it, I've earned this. I bypass the actual peak which is about ten feet higher and already has a long line of people waiting to get their picture taken and head right for the cafeteria. It's a big building with a huge panoramic row of windows looking east, where were headed, but of course too cloudy to see anything. I head for the food and grab a turkey sub (or grinder as they call it here), bag of pretzels, big coke, and brownie. Half way through the clouds lift and the view is stunning. You can see a whole string of mountains heading east, all of which we'll be hiking today, and then this wide, broad view of much lower, distant mountains...Maine. There it is. The end. Wow! So close yet so far. I was a little chilly so went back to the cafeteria and got chicken noodle soup served in a loaf of bread and later, a hot chocolate. I probably spent too long here but it was nice to drink it all in. It's basically downhill from here. All the way to Katahdin, so to speak. Left with a very full belly and big smile. Outside the line for pictures was even longer and I had to ask to cut through as it crossed over the trail. So dissonant. Downhill was pretty much just like the uphill but in a different direction. From here it's around several more peaks then to the Madison hut. Afterwards is an enormous and steep descent almost to Pinkham Notch but I'm stopping at the Osgood campsite.My attitude changed completely after about the first two miles (it's six to the hut). It became so frustrating. Like the rocks of Pennsylvania had been imported here, but now the steps and hops were twice as big. Spectacular views but exhausting. And to make matters worse I saw what I dreaded while all exposed on the ridges (that still had about five miles to go). Dark clouds gathering. I hiked faster. That being a relative term when you've been slowed down to about a mile an hour from your usual two or more. I swear even the mileage on the signs would get longer and I'm positive it said 2.7 miles to the hut twice. In any event I made it. It's just in the trees but still considered above tree line as they're only about six feet tall. Went in to buy a brownie and then outside to take off my shoes and socks to let my feet breath. They've been torn up lately. There's one more peak, Mt. Madison, to get over before the big descent and I hate to waste time so I gave it about fifteen minutes before I started. It's practically vertical right behind the hut. Wow. Seriously tough and definitely a put the poles away. Took about 45 minutes to bag a peak that looked so close. Up top I stopped to look around and you could clearly see rain in the distance. Not again! Yesterday was annoying. Today it makes me nervous all exposed. There is no thunder and none predicted so that's good but sure would be nice to not get somewhere wet tonite. Here's the brutal part, for lack of a better word. There have been climbs, like yesterday's, where I've huffed and puffed and cursed my way up and said "at least I'm not going down this! It'd be horrible". This now, is one of those moments where I AM going down it and it's horrible. Endless endless endless. Three HOURS of impossibly steep. Each step a slow calculated response to the previous one. I'musually hunched way over like an old lady with her cane trying to find a safe spot to place my trekking poles before I make the next hop or jump down a rock. Incidentally I lost the metal tip to one two days ago and the plastic remainder will just have to do until Katahdin. I really can't believe how long this was and that they couldn't put just one switchback in there to ease the pain. Just one!!I finally did make it to the campsite about six, found an empty platform, set up and got inside to dry out. And I'm breaking the rules and eating in my tent damnit. My knees have never been so stiff. I was sitting cross legged to eat and when I stretched out afterwards I actually yelped out in pain. I took three Advil and hope it means a good sleep. Not looking forward to tomorrow. If not for the rain it might be an OK day with one major climb but now I'm nervous to even start it. The plan is to hike up to Carter Notch hut, the last in the Whites and either work for stay, which is unlikely because it would be too early, or just buy a bunk if available. Either way I hope the impending storms makes them show pity on me.