morvasaaty/AppalachianTrail-LD-Hikers-Blogs-and-Weather-20-years huggingface dataset:
Date: 2004-09-02
From: Eliza Brook Shelter

To: Whitehouse Brook Stealth Camp
Miles today: 8.6

We were told Mt. Moosilauke and the Kinsman peaks were the toughest in the entire White Mountain range. I surely hope so. We were painstakingly slow today and our planned 11.4 mileage suddenly dwindled to 8.6. I pulled up the rear position again staying in close proximity to Ursa to give an extra boost up or down these huge rocky steps. My admiration for my trail sister is immeasurable. She's been hiking with painful knees since North Carolina and puts out twice the effort to keep pace and conquer these boulders. She is of the opinion that it is in my best interest to leave her behind and soar ahead at my own pace. That's not going to happen. We've come this far together. I'm not about to part company now. To make adequate miles we may have to be on the trail at daybreak every day, but that's no problem for me; I'm always awake anyway. Right now I just hope we can get all the way to Gorham before Cygnet has to leave.The rumor about free feeds at the AMC huts was verified as truth today. We arrived about 2:30 and pigged out on leftover pancakes, oatmeal, homemade bread, and gigantic pieces of chocolate cake. Blue, Ursa and Cyg are cooking an evening meal. I'll make do with trail mix if I hunger later. For now I think I'll simply catch up on my picture chronicles and get psyched up for the Franconian Ridge hike tomorrow. Whitehouse Brook is pounding right past our tents. It should drown out the noise of the road one-half mile away. It's warmer tonight because of the lower elevation. For that reason, it's nice not to have climbed to our original destination at 3800 feet!
Date: 2004-09-04
From: Garfield Ridge Campsite

To: AMC Zealand Falls Hut
Miles today: 9.7

An AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) Hut is a beautiful enclosed resort-type structure with kitchen, dining room, and large rooms housing 8-12 sleeping bunks in each. There is a "croo", usually collegians, who reside here caretaking the property. Meals are prepared and served, composting toilets are maintained, and all guests are treated to warm and cheerful hospitality. Price: $75 per night. Thru-hikers are welcomed on a work-to-stay basis. We are here and it appears we have after-meal clean-up duties. In exchange we receive sleeping quarters, dinner and breakfast, and use of the facilities; not a bad deal at all, especially considering how much food we thru-hikers consume!What a grand day we had. We awoke in a cloud of dense fog, but fairly warm temperatures, packed and departed at 8:00. At 8:45 we completed the first half-mile of steep, rocky wet descent. It looked like it was going to be a long day. But all improved from that point on ... kind of. Our first destination was AMC Galehead Hut where we had hoped to receive a feast of breakfast leftovers. There were none.A Hershey's bar and some hot chocolate helped soothe the disappointment but did nothing to alter the moist foggy outdoors. So out we trudged once again. I found myself envious of Cygnet whose hike will be ending in four days. The 1000-foot climb over the next .8 mile was surprisingly easy. The day was improving! South Mountain gave us no view but Cyg and I both requested of the universe that a window be opened briefly to give us a glimpse of what lay around and below us. At the top she dropped her pack and sat. Everyone else departed; she and I stayed and guess what -- we got our window! It was brief but it was complete. The hike to Mt. Guyot didn't give us much grief and we were given a glorious vista under a clear blue sky. I'm happy to report the remainder of the day was very manageable. Parts of the trail were even flat! We spoke with Moose On the Loose at one viewpoint. She has summited all 48 Hew Hampshire mountains surpassing 4000 feet. She directed our gaze to Mt. Washington, whose 6288-foot peak was in the clouds. This "deadliest and worst weather" mountain is our destination Monday. The peak stands at the confluence of three major storm tracks. The highest wind speed ever recorded on the planet was 231 miles per hour on Mt. Washington on April 12, 1934. But that climb isn't until Monday. Right now Chef, Ursa, Blue, Swan and Cygnet are sitting outdoors, freezing, waiting for the paying guests to finish their dinner. We must look like famished dogs lurking in an alley waiting for scraps. Rumor has it the bunkrooms are filled and five hikers will be splayed out on the dining room floor for the night. Wonder if the guests know about "hiker midnight"?!
Date: 2004-09-05
From: AMC Zealand Falls Hut

To: Highland Lodge Bunkhouse
Miles today: 7.7

Cygnet, Blue, and Ursa took floor space; Chef and Swan spread out on the tabletops. From those places of repose we five thru-hikers -- (make that four, Cyg is a section hiker) -- tried to catch some winks inbetween the frequent interruptions of guests going through to use the restrooms! At 5 a.m. a member of the "croo" appeared to start breakfast fixings. We are convinced the cacophony was deliberate to wake us all and get us out of the way. Guests appeared at 6:30; we ate at 8:00 and by 9:00 were back to the business of walking to Maine.The trail was ultra-friendly to us, following an old railroad bed for a great distance before we descended into Crawford Notch and walked into trail magic! These former thru-hikers had attempted some serious magic the day before, but had only one thru-hiker appear. They actually weren't planning any for today but when we appeared on the scene they shared their goodies generously. The best assistance of all for us out here is transportation. This, too, was provided and we are now at this lovely locale, enjoying the ambiance of Highland Lodge tucked in between the loftiness of several mountain peaks. Cygnet and I toured a photography exhibit featuring the award-winning photos of Brad Washburn. His exclusive subjects (in this exhibit anyway) were the peaks and cliff faces of some of the highest mountains in the Alps and Alaska. The photos were taken from aircraft outfitted with specially designed optic windows. From their photos Brad and his wife Barbara plotted their course for climbing these peaks, Barbara being the first woman to summit Mt. McKinley half a decade ago.The downside of our day: our boxes aren't here. But not to panic ~~ they are at the Willey House three miles away and one of the workers has offered to bring them around this evening. Dinner is being served shortly in the major lodge dining room. I am famished. Tomorrow we start our climb to Mount Washington.
Date: 2004-09-06
From: Highland Lodge Bunkhouse

To: AMC Lake of the Clouds 
Miles today: 11.2

The gal from Willey House never showed with our maildrops. However, all's well that ends well. Lightfoot, thru-hiker 2002, offered his services to take us there when they opened at 9 a.m. We did the necessary sorting and repacked a small box to be taken to Pinkham Notch Visitor Center where we'll be Wednesday noon. What a Godsend. Lightfoot is taking our box there for us, meaning we will be carrying only two days' worth of food instead of four. At two pounds per day, that adds up quickly. Bless you, Lightfoot. From there it was a quick drive to the trailhead and we began our climb.First we had to negotiate the Webster Cliffs. I was picturing a barefaced rockpile scramble. It was nothing of the sort. We were in the trees and simply had to climb one-half mile of rock steps. It was work but not exactly a scramble. We crossed Mt. Webster peak at 3910 feet, Mt. Jackson peak at 4052, south peak of Mt. Clinton at 4180, Mt. Clinton at 4310, around Mt. Eisenhower at 4450, Mt. Franklin at 5004 and Mt. Monroe at 5120 feet. At present we are only 1-1/2 mile from the summit of Mt. Washington. Being above treeline for a majority of the afternoon, I watched this peak grow larger and larger as we got closer and closer. The cog railway, which carries tourists to the summit, could be seen as it spewed a cloud of black smoke into this pristine air. Yuk! Blue soared ahead early on in the day; I lingered and kept pace with Ursa Minor and Cygnet. Our arrival was 6:30, and although light clouds were filling in the valleys, the sky over us remained blue, giving us amazing, unimaginable vistas. But the greatest gift was yet to come. Cyg and I climbed to a lofty peak from where we could feel as one with the universe. Never before in my life have I seen a sunset such as this. The entire sky was unobstructed as we watched an endless horizon change from blue to yellow to the richest oranges, pinks, and finally purples. The sea of orange literally was exploding in a vast ocean of moving color. My thoughts were of Atlantis, the lost city, except above the earth instead of within the depths of its womb. There appeared to be a forest of trees in the midst of this city. As my gaze wandered past the forest I followed a slender path of white cloud leading up and away from the fiery orange center into a fluffier, whiter display of cloud. As it passed through the highest layer, it converged with two more narrow white paths and curved up and beyond into nothing but blue sky. I was envisioning the stairway to Heaven and wanted desperately to see what lay beyond, but it was not my privilege to know.My camera's eye captured some of the drama and theatrics but cannot begin to do justice to the glory of the moment. I pray my mind's eye will retain every detail with clarity and awe to my dying day. I have been touched by the hand of God and blessed. Amen.
Date: 2004-09-08
From: AMC Madison Spring Hut

To: Joe Dodge Lodge, Pinkham Notch
Miles today: 7.8
Weather: fog

To stop at the hut last evening rather than continue on to the Osgood Tent sites was a very wise decision. We traversed .9 mile of rocky boulders, all above treeline, in a record one and three-quarter hours! But oy vey ~~ the incredible views which opened up to us were Heavenly. The sun burned off the top layer of cloud and fog, giving us the essence of being far removed from life as we've known it. The mountain peaks stretched through and above the clouds. The sun radiated off the alpine foliage in vibrant greens and browns, and off the gray, moss and lichen-covered rocks, highlighting the fools' gold imbedded in these ancient boulders. Had it not been for the cool windy conditions, we'd have stayed up there longer. The way it was, however, it was a bit of a relief to see the trail descend into trees once again. It was an endless ridge; I doubt I'll ever return to climb these mountains. I inhaled the indescribable beauty, satiating my every pore, hoping that in the future I can close my eyes and relive the scenes in my mind. My camera was at the ready but I was nearly out of space on my memory card and was recognizing the futility of attempting to capture the spectacular scene. Hopefully the few pictures I took will do partial justice to the glory upon which we gazed.Our descent back into civilization was fairly simplistic. Our welcoming committee included the re-introduction to mosquitoes. They began greeting us with fervor at 2550 feet. That was nearly sufficient to make us want to scurry back above treeline! We've checked into the lodge, very much overpriced were it not for the inclusion of dinner and breakfast. Rooney has graced us with his company, always a delight. Impulse is heading up the trail about two to four miles for some stealth camping. Chef, D-Bone, Munchkin and Arms retreated into Gorham for a night at Ping's, Chef's trailmate on the Long Trail last year. Cygnet has yogi'd a ride into Gorham with Ping tomorrow when she brings everyone back out. For now she has sorted through her gear and remaining food and prepared a box to leave in Gorham for us. I've switched out a couple of my items for hers: a new bite valve on my Camelback water bladder and a new headlamp. She is keeping the sleeping bag, my Mystery Ranch backpack, a thermal undershirt, hiking poles, my other Camelback and my pre-clip rain jacket. Merry Christmas and Happy Birthday, My Dear! Dinner was excellent, the hot shower even better, and the companionship best of all.
Date: 2004-09-09
From: Joe Dodge Lodge, Pinkham Notch

To: AMC Carter Notch Hut 
Miles today: 5.9
Weather: fog

Why is the weatherman always correct when forecasting inclement weather? Of course, this one was hard to miss. A huge cold front is moving over us, generated by Hurricane Frances. We debated with fervor the pros and cons of taking a zero today. Had the forecast said tomorrow was to be sunny and dry we probably would have stayed. We'd have gone into Gorham to do some maildrop biz and laundry and resume the hike in the morning. However, this front is going to take 48 hours to pass over, so we will be wet regardless. I said my tearful goodbye to Cygnet, after which Ursa and I ventured out at 8 a.m. We scrambled up wet rocks, splashed through ankle-deep puddles, sloshed upstream in fast moving rivers cascading down the mountain via the AT, landed here at 2:00 and said "enough!". Our next possible stop is another seven miles with a couple more mountains between here and there. That stop is a typical three-sided shelter. This is a heated, enclosed hut with full kitchen facilities. It was a no-brainer. Rooney Tunes and Impulse are staying too, so once again we're in marvelous company! Rooney has informed me Cyg's ride never arrived, so she yogi'd a ride from someone else. She should be back in Tennessee by Saturday afternoon, a far distance from the peaks of the Appalachian Mountains in New Hampshire.Only 313 miles remain, 31 more miles to Maine, our final state. We've taken more time than expected to cross the Whites, but we've been blessed with incredible weather and glorious vistas. I've no complaints. We've been told we will increase our daily mileage significantly in a week or so. The end is near, but some immensely challenging hiking looms ahead. The adventure continues.
Date: 2004-09-11
From: AMC Carter Notch Hut 

To: Hikers Paradise Hostel - Gorham, NH
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: broken clouds

Argh!! I hate town stops. I erred bigtime this morning. Instead of going to the post office immediately at 8:30, I went down for breakfast at 7:30 expecting to be done by 8:30. Unfortunately, it was a zoo for breakfast and I didn't leave until 9:30. By the time we began sorting our boxes it was after 10:30. The post office closed at noon. Our watches said we made it; post office clock said we didn't. The postal clerk was gruff and chastised us for coming in so late. I sank to the floor, head in hands, not wanting to take a second zero day waiting for Monday, and not able to carry a month's worth of food. Anger, frustration, and tears emerged; I think it was the tears that softened the clerk's demeanor. He finally opened up the small door and offered to post the boxes if we'd pay cash. We gave him enough to be certain it would cover the total and he'll forward any refund to the next stop for us.Last Wednesday I noticed the bottom of my shoe ripping. I made an urgent call to New Balance and they shipped a new pair to Gorham, guaranteed delivery by end of business day Friday. Today is Saturday -- no shoes! We've imposed more on the post office clerk by asking him to forward that box and also one of Ursa's that didn't arrive. He agreed. I will be sending him a thank you note for his kind assistance even though it was done begrudgingly at first. We all have bad days ... and mine hasn't been wonderful, but without his help it would have been horrible.Ursa treated me to a chocolate milkshake at McDonald's to calm the seething beast. There we found Rooney and Regular Brian. We had said goodbye to them as they headed out to the trail 1-1/2 hours earlier! They weren't making very good time. The remainder of today is being spent off my feet, writing thank yous and making a few phone calls. My camera batteries are being charged. I need to caption my photos and then rest until the trail yells out for us tomorrow morning. I truly dislike town stops!!
Date: 2004-09-13
From: Gentian Pond Shelter/Campsite 

To: Full Goose Shelter
Miles today: 9.6
Weather: clear sky

Welcome to Maine!! This state wasted no time letting us know who was boss. Phew-ee; what a challenging 9.6 miles!! It's reassuring to read in the shelter register that it was a tough day for those who were here before us too. Today's tally: Mt. Success (3565 feet), Mt. Carlo (3565 feet), west peak of Goose Eye Mountain (3854 feet), east peak of Goose Eye Mountain (3795 feet), and north peak of Goose Eye Mountain (3675 feet). Of course, between each peak is a significant drop in elevation creating a roller coaster terrain. Making our hike most difficult were the multitude of steep rock scrambles, some requiring us to sit and jump, or throw our poles over the edge and use trees to stabilize ourselves to prevent a freefall. There were two rock-filled ravines around and through which we had to navigate (a preview of tomorrow?) and tons of mud which we failed to avoid in spite of our heroic efforts. At 12:00 noon we crossed into the state which is home to our final mountain. Katahdin is 281 miles from the border, so near but still so far.I slept well last night ... for a while. I turned off the headlamp about 8:15 and awoke feeling refreshed and ready to hike. My watch read ------ 9:30!!?? Yikes. The usual ritual took over: wake, sleep, wake, sleep ... all night long. When the sun finally popped over the horizon I was more than ready. But I had told Ursa that 8:00 was a decent hour to begin today with only 9.6 miles to go (little did I know!), so I reviewed facts and figures for our next 100 miles, did some first-aid massage on my feet and ankles and finally rolled out at 7:00. Ursa was still sound asleep at 7:30 but I had to get moving so I rousted her and we were gone by 8:30.It's getting cold. I had my jacket on and off constantly throughout the day. The summits were windy and chilly; the climbs had me sweating. The feet were soaked but stayed warm as long as I kept moving. We couldn't change into our warm clothes fast enough once we reached the shelter. Our hot meals are consumed; we are boiling water for hot chocolate and then tucking into our bags as quickly as possible. We intend to be on the trail early tomorrow. We've 1.4 miles to walk before we reach the notorious 1.1 mile of boulders. We'd like to be through them by noon. Knowing it will take us twice as long because of Ursa's short stature, we are allowing plenty of time. The other side will look so sweet! And tomorrow at this time we're going to be so happy!!
Date: 2004-09-14
From: Full Goose Shelter

To: Speck Pond Shelter
Miles today: 5.1
Weather: clear sky

We did it! Mahoosuc Notch is history in my 2004 thru-hike. I was expecting a barren valley with huge boulders as far as I could see. It wasn't that at all. The notch was filled with trees and moss and ... boulders ... quite lovely. Difficult? Yes, but not as bad as we had imagined. Several stretches from one foothold to another were too much for Ursa, and I gave assistance whenever I could. Leading the way, I tried to find the easiest route, made questionable by the lack of blazes in some spots. We were forced to doff our packs three or four times to dip under and around the rocks, but when all was said and done, it was great fun. Springs of mountain water were rushing in the ravines, cracks and crevices underneath us, some out of sight. With my occasional doubling back to give Ursa a hand and/or to lift her backpack ahead, it took me twice as long to cross as normal, but we gave ourselves all day to conquer the notch and Mahoosuc Arm (3765 feet) so time was no consideration or concern.My feet are tired tonight ... not sore, just tired. The climb to the summit of the Arm was long and steep, especially after just exiting the notch. Much of the ascent was smooth, sloping rock. The only way to proceed was to lower my head, shift the weight of my pack forward, take a running start and charge up hill. My quads got quite a workout. I'm tired tonight but it's a great all-over happy tired. I'll be treating my feet to a long thorough massage before I retire; they deserve some TLC.Last night's repose was fitful, partially because of the cold (mid 30's) and partially in anticipation of today's challenge. We survived both.The rock upon which I now sit has been warmed by the sun. I'm looking over the calm surface of Speck Pond as it perfectly reflects the surrounding tree-filled mountains. Two jets are flying far overhead and the straight white stream behind each also is purely mirrored. How quiet and peaceful this scene. A fish just jumped out to have a peek at the beauty above the waters. He has no worries. He has no deadlines. He has no fears. The chipmunks playing tag over the rocks just beyond my reach are living a perfect existence in their perfect world. The chickadees are tending to their daily task of filling the woods with music. Each molecule of forest life is doing what it was meant to do in the evolution of nature. It does so with no interference (we hope) from man. It does so with no concerns for the future. It does so with no greed or hatred or envy. Perhaps we all could afford to spend more time observing Mother Nature. I've one more month to learn Her valuable lessons.
Date: 2004-09-15
From: Speck Pond Shelter

To: Frye Notch Lean-to 
Miles today: 10.4
Weather: clear sky

Having spent the last two nights alone in the shelters, we're finding it nice to have company tonight. Chef Vegan and One Thing are sharing this lovely evening with us. One Thing has just said goodbye to his hiking partner of five months and feeling quite lonely, understandably so. I'm glad we are here to fill the silent void. Chef Vegan is a young sprite with coiled springs for legs and a happy-go-lucky demeanor. He's keeping us entertained with lively conversation to the point where I'm having great difficulty focusing on this journal entry!Trail magic was ours last night! The caretaker, Carolyn, had left in the bear box two dinners, two oranges and two apples for any fortunate thru-hikers passing through. The gift was to be ours this time and we rejoiced in the blessing. Last evening's temps were closer to 30 than 60 once again but with the addition of my fleece liner in my bag, I stayed toasty warm.An early awakening had us hoofing uphill immediately for the first climb of the day. But lo and behold, we had soft dirt trail, something we haven't had since the mud of Vermont. We were back cruising at two miles per hour. It surely felt reassuring to know we still had it in us. Old Speck Mountain, 4180 feet, was pleasant and picturesque but the highlight of the day was the Baldpates: West Peak, East Peak, and Little Baldpate. Up above treeline, once again it felt as if we had climbed to another world. Looking across from West Peak to the crawl up East Peak nearly threw us into a spin. It appeared to be a rockface slabbing. We must remember it always looks worse than it actually is. We scrambled up, yes, but it truly was not vertical and there were plenty of great footfalls all over. The rocks were radiating warmth from the sun (think my cheeks and nose are a little burned); there was even warming in the breezes that blew; and the views were awesome. I had a blast crossing these three peaks, following the numerous rock cairns, which were built to guide our way. On the mountainsides I'm beginning to see the changing of the color guard. The greens still dominate, but are quickly yielding to the yellows. Soon I expect to be engulfed in a forest sea of vibrant reds and oranges. Today I photographed a small tree, which was teasing us with the first true fall color. My camera shutter will be in constant motion these next few weeks, even though I know it can give only a hint of what I'll be seeing. A 1.5 mile descent brought us to Frye Notch Shelter relatively early (3:30) and we had the option of staying or continuing another 4.5 miles to East B Hill Road. From there it's a hitch eight miles to Andover where we hope to find our bounce box, my new shoes, and Ursa's camera. We've chosen to stay and rise early. Perhaps we can zip into town, get our supplies and bop out again. We'll see what tomorrow has in store for us.