Date: 2016-09-02
From: Black Bear Resort, Dennis Cove Road, USFS 50

To: Vango/Abby Memorial Hostel 
Miles today: 12.0
Weather: broken clouds

As usual, I got a later than planned start. My pack was flush with resupply, plus a little extra because I did not eat all my food last week. Before heading out I was able to weigh my pack. With the resupply, extra food, and 80 oz. of water, it weighs less than 40 pounds.I was offered a much appreciated ride back to the trailhead, which I did not have to think twice about accepting.Initially my goal for the day was Mountaineer Shelter, 15.9 miles. But several issues started to make me reconsider. First was the late start. Then there was my right knee, which felt pretty good this morning. I did not want to push too hard and over do it.But the most important consideration was the weather. Tallahassee had been hit by a hurricane, which was now heading up the east coast. I have a VERY healthy respect for the weather.The climb out of the gap was very easy. I passed an old barn which was roughly made of widely spaced weathered logs. I am not sure what the little building would have been used for, but it looked old. For a while the AT zig zagged up a ravine. The woods were very quiet and moist with a thick tree canapy.Eventually the AT started to wind up the side of the mountain, up to the ridgeline. When the tree canapy thinned I immediately noticed the sky was gray and heavy with dark clouds. But what most concerned me was the wind. The tops of the trees where really moving, and the tree trunks were groaning and rubbing against one another.I texted my husband asking for a 3 day weather forecast, especially wind speeds. I did not want to end up with a tree crushing me in my tent or in a shelter. With all the trees down across the trail a few days ago, and the Laurel Shelter closed due to tree damage, I knew it was a real possibility. My husband texted me back that the storm was close to the coast, but wind gusts here were 24 mph. Of course, at higher elevations, the gusts could be much greater. I started to work on plan B. I thought I would be safer and sleep better if I got out of the woods tonight. Per the AWOL guide, there is a hostel off the AT at 12 miles. I stopped briefly at a campsite with a blue blazed trail to a spring. I did not need water, so I did not check whether the water source was flowing. I tried taking pictures of some wildflowers, but they were blowing around too much. A patch of goldenrod was almost blown flat by the wind.At that point I decided to call the hostel to make sure it was open and to let them know I was coming. I reserved the private "Astronaut" room - it sounded very nice in the guide.I continued on to the Moreland Gap Shelter. Like most of the other Tennessee shelters, it was trashy and covered in graffiti. There was even a bag of something smelly up on the roof.As I was taking a break a NOBO section hiker arrived. I knew her - "Ardency". I met her at Black Bear Resort when I checked in. She is from Indiana and comes out to do little sections of the AT when she can manage to get away. She had been shuttled about 25 miles south and was hiking north back to the resort where she left her car.   I could tell she is experienced and comfortable on the trail, and she enjoys/needs her time in the woods. She was spending the night at the shelter. I was moving on.A little further south I ran into a briskly hiking NOBO woman dressed all in bright pink, like a tennis outfit, with a big pack. A little ways behind her was a man, and a short distance behind him was a slower moving woman. The 3 were out doing a short section. I chatted with the man about water and shelter issues ahead for his trio. Fortunately for me, as I proceeded south there was plenty of water. The trail remained easy. Occassionally, depending upon which side of the mountain I was on, I felt the wind. I began to rethink getting off the trail, but I told the hostel I was coming, so I needed to show up.I did not want to miss the side trail to the hostel. My landmark for the turn was a bridge with one handrail. I was to follow an unmaintained blue blazed trail along a creek for about .3 miles. I found the side trail. It was relatively flat, but overgrown, in some places with pricker bushes. Finally I reached a group of buildings. On the AT things are rarely what you expect or imagine. This was definitely one of those occassions. The property is basically a yard where hikers can tent for free. The owner, Scotty, had me sign a release as the first order of business. He talked with me from inside his house as I stood on the cluttered porch.Eventually we struck up a conversation about some cast iron trivets he had hanging on the side of his house. Before I knew it I was invited inside and was examining his cast iron collection. I enjoyed looking at his skillets and explaining what all the markings on the pans meant. As I looked around I felt very sorry for his living conditions, which apparently have been going on for quite some time.I bought a pint of Ben & Jerry's for dinner. I should eat food out of my pack to lighten the load, but it was now dark and I was tired. My BG was also very low, so I could safely eat ice cream. My "private room" was across the yard and up a steep flight of stairs. I could not find lights, but the TV worked with a handful of channels. I ate the B&J using my head lamp while watching America's Got Talent in the dark.The AT is calling. I played it safe. I got out of the wind and away from the trees. I also had a trail experience at the hostel I otherwise would not have had. The AT is about the journey, not necessarily the destination. It is the places we see and the people we meet along the way that make the memories which last a lifetime. It is not just about making miles. Today was definitely one of those days.