Date: 2017-09-21
From: ME 27/Stratton Motel/Hostel

To: Safford Notch Campsite
Miles today: 10.4

9/21ME 27/Stratton Motel/Hostel to Safford Notch Campsite10.4 miles Total miles:  2012.0I woke up at five o'clock and enjoyed a quiet hour of lying in bed until my alarm went off at six.  The shuttle back to the trail head wasn't until 7:30, so I had plenty of time. I was ready to go by 7:15, but the shuttle was delayed, and we did not make it to the trail head until 8:15. The goal for today was 10.4 miles to Safford Notch Campsite via the Bigelow Mountain Range. I would be hiking over three peaks: South Horn, Bigelow Mountain west peak, and Avery Peak, which is named for Myron H. Avery, one of the main founders of the Appalachian Trail.  Many hikers contend that the views from these peaks are the most spectacular of the entire trail, and I was eager to find out. The first few miles were flat, and I made good time. I passed the official 2,000 mile marker, a wooden sign attached to a tree. As I've noted before, the length of the trail changes slightly periodically as minor reroutes are completed,  so the permanent signs are a bit off. It was near here that I met two southbounders who came across the Bigelows yesterday. They were disappointed that they had no views at all, since everything was in the clouds yesterday. I crossed the Crockers yesterday, which are mostly in tree cover with limited views. What a difference one day can make, as today was sunny and clear, as beautiful a day as could possibly be imagined.  The majority of the ascent to Horns Peak was steep but uneventful. The trail rises over 2,000 feet in two and a half miles. There,  it briefly levels out near Horns Pond. Another glacial pond, Horns Pond is nestled high on the mountain and makes for quite a view when it makes its appearance from the trail. A favorite fishing spot, there is an old CCC hut by the trail for day use only. I ate my lunch there with Tengo before getting down (or, rather, up) to the business of summitting South Horn Peak. The trail was wicked steep, and I felt like I was climbing rocky stairs up a lighthouse. About half way up the half mile ascent, there is a small box spring, where I stopped to get water. The spring is literally in a box with a wooden lid. I almost passed it by before realizing what it was. I removed the lid and scooped out some of the coldest, freshest water I have enjoyed on the trail. I drank a liter right there, filtering it directly into my mouth and actually had a mild brain freeze. Delicious!  If there is any water on the trail safe to drink, this would be it, but I don't want to take any chances of getting sick this close to the end. I then powered my way up the rest of the way to the peak at South Horn. The final bit was above tree line, narrow, and rocky. I purposefully focused on the trail all the way to the summit, although I could sense the vista that surrounded me. At the summit, I looked up. What a glorious sight! I can't begin to describe the views. There were ranges of mountains as far as you can see, forested areas with changing fall colors all around, and lakes in almost every direction. The view is all around and is as beautiful a sight as I can imagine.  What a blessing to be able to experience it on such an idyllic day. To the north was Bigelow Mountain west peak, 1.1 miles away. The hike between these peaks went well, with the final ascent not quite as steep as the first.  The views were as spectacular as before. Avery Peak was next. From west peak, you could see part of the trail making its way to the top. The last part of the ascent to Avery involved climbing over jumbled boulders while also going steeply up, which presented a bit of a challenge.  Once again, the views were superb. A bronze plaque, commemorating Myron Avery and his achievements, is mounted on a boulder near the summit.  By this time it was 2:30, and there was still two miles to go to the campsite. Most of the descent was steep but unremarkable, and I remained optimistic that I would make it easily by dark. There I go, underestimating the AT again. The final section before the campsite worked its way around boulders the size of houses (no exaggeration). It was getting late, but I forced myself to take my time. A weary hiker on rugged trail trying to hurry to beat the dark is a recipe almost guaranteed to not end well. Although I was unaware of it at the time, I was within a hundred yards of the side trail to the campsite when I heard something loudly crashing its way through the forest.  Perhaps fifty yards from me and headed in my general direction was a huge bull moose.  This was quite a different situation than a female moose calmly feeding in a pond a safe distance away. I immediately moved to put one of those huge boulders between me and the moose, and I doubt he was ever aware of my existence. He soon moved on, although in the same direction as the campsite. I waited several minutes and then cautiously continued on. The 0.2 mile trail to the campsite was not without its challenges as well, including having to duck under this huge, slanting boulder that was almost like a cave. I finally arrived at 6:30. I was able to locate a small tent spot, get my tent set up, and throw my bear rope before darkness descended. It is now getting to be completely dark by 7:00.  I stayed near my tent to cook dinner. I was concerned that if I left the immediate area of my tent, I might not be able to find it again as there really isn't a trail to it. I finished dinner, relocated my bear line to hang my food, and was in my tent by 8:30. There will be a long ridge crossing tomorrow along Little Bigelow Mountain before things level out a bit as I head into central Maine. The goal tomorrow is West Carry Pond, which is 12.6 miles to the north.  It's a calm, cool night, with the forecast calling for yet another beautiful day. I think about those two hikers this morning who, by the luck of the draw, missed out on seeing the panoramas that I was blessed to see crossing the Bigelows. It is said that the hike hikes you more than you hike the hike, and I believe this to be true. Back to sleep now for tomorrow will be another big day.