Date: 2013-03-12
From: Betty Gap Campsite

To: Winding Stair Gap
Miles today: 12.2

Got up as soon as it was light enough to see inside my tent which was about 7:30. Condensation had formed in the tent during the night and dripped on me. My sleeping bag is really starting to smell bad. Packed up and tried to keep the soaking wet stuff away from the moderately wet stuff. Everything is just varying degrees of wet. Taped up my feet as best I could. The plastic heel supports are wearing through my shoes and have worn holes in my socks. The skin is finally starting to come off my heels. Had to hike in my sleeping clothes because no way was I putting on clothes I could literally wring water out of. Had to dump a few inches of water out of my boots this morning. I was first on the trail. You can tell you're the first hiker through in the morning because of all the spider webs across the trail. I hiked as fast as I could. Would have put the power walkers at the mall to shame. I knew 12 miles stood between me and Franklin. The trail was a river in many places. Good thing I didn't have to worry about getting my shoes wet. Albert Mountain really slowed me down. I felt like a mountain goat on the narrow edge of a steep cliff. Many times I wasn't sure where the trail went or if I was still on the AT. Towards the top I had to let the poles hang from my wrists and climb with my hands. My pack weighs at least 50 lbs today because it's so water logged, and water is the heaviest thing in my pack at 2 lbs / liter. Albert Mountain was I think the toughest climb yet and oh man my legs were feeling it. When I got to the top I think I said "wow" four times before I told myself to shut up. The cloud cover was low and I'd just climbed up above it, so it looked like a rolling blanket of white with just the mountain tops poking out. The fire tower on the summit was locked but it was still cool to climb and get a bird's eye view.I had to stop later in the day to retape a blister. Made it to Winding Stair Gap by 2 - an hour ahead of schedule. Barely had any service to call for a ride. The German brothers came off the trail and hitched for a ride. The shuttle took about an hour to get there. Ron Haven - owner of two motels, shuttle service, and elected official for NC - is one of the most interesting people I've ever met. He knows the area where all the hikers are from pretty well. Even knows much of Maine and up into Canada. He spoke to me in French asking if we Mainers learn French because we are so close to the French speaking part of Canada. I said no, but that I was learning Spanish and had just gotten back from Spain...at which point he started speaking to me in Spanish. What a surprise! He said, "I bet you wouldn't think a hillbilly looking guy like me could speak three languages!" and he was right! He speaks Cherokee also because he's part Indian. He learned Mexican Spanish growing up on his father's farm that had migrant workers. He even has a curly mustache! A really nice guy. I could listen to him talk all day. Jesse had gotten in a few hours earlier so I shared a room with him. Laid out all my stuff to dry. When I went to get my mail drop, I saw Brooke's name on the list of packages. When I told the manager that she would probably come in later she asked me, "Are you the girl that that other girl's been waiting on?" "No?" I replied. But as I went to walk out I realized, "Danielle? Is there a Danielle here?" Turns out she was two doors down! She'd been here for a couple days. Glad she gave her blisters time to heal. She says she's still not quitting, but she's going back to Dick's Creek Gap tomorrow to keep walking. She's full of surprises! The 20 or so of us staying here all pulled up chairs in a circle and sat around for hours talking. I wish I could remember everyone's names. Such interesting people you meet. Brooke rolled in this evening. Glad she made it. Got a load of laundry done and working on another. Went to McD for dinner. I'll have to go back and use their wifi because it stinks here at the motel. Going to zero tomorrow to resupply and get some new shoes. Maybe this blister I've had for four or five days now will finally heal. I'm tired. It's 12 and way past hiker bedtime but I hate missing the chance to hang out while I'm in town. Going to go socialize for at least a while longer.