Date: 2023-06-30
From: Garfield Ridge Campsite

To: Nauman Tentsite
Miles today: 23.8

I started hiking back on the AT at 6:45. I had a long day planned to take advantage of a day where it would clear up, and try to get to Pinkham Notch before the rain was forecasted to start in a couple days.Just a few minutes past the campsite, I encountered what I thought was an annoying, vigorously flowing downhill stream crossing over jagged rocks. To my dismay, this stream was actually rain runoff on the trail. I had to hike down this, which took a long while. I was still on Garfield Ridge, and on the Pemi loop route that I hiked several years ago, but it was tougher on wet rocks and sloshing through mud slop.I reached Galehead Hut around 8:30ish and took a half hour break, eating egg, bacon, and oatmeal breakfast leftovers, and a free piece of applesauce cake using the thru hiker pass.It was starting to get sunny as I climbed up South Twin. I remember how tough it was on the Pemi loop -- though that time I had started at Liberty Springs Campsite and climbed it -- and had eaten plenty beforehand. Despite being one of the top ten steepest ascents from the AT and PCT, the 1100 ft climb over 0.8 miles didn't feel that bad. I was also rewarded my first great view in the White Mountains when I reached the summit, around 40 minutes later.From there I pressed on to Zealand Falls Hut for another nice break. I reexperienced the great view at the Bondcliff Trail junction, around 11. I skipped the treed-in Zealand summit, but I nabbed it when I did the Pemi loop. The remaining stretch to Zealand Falls was relatively mild, but still wet and muddy in many spots.I got to Zealand Falls Hut around 12:30 or 1 and had lunch. By then, it was sunny and warm. I met Firetower, who was drying his tent and other gear outside the hut. I also met Howdya, who always asks how people got their trail names. I also learned the name of Brute, a hiker I ran into when I was climbing up Mt Wolf and the Eliza Brook Shelter 2-3 days ago. I supplemented my trail lunch with a free bowl of lentil soup, free leftover pancake, and free piece of blueberry cake using my pass.I headed out around 1:30 and caught a glimpse of the lovely Zealand Falls. The trail became very mild, and I was relieved. It even became scenic and mild, with no mud, as I passed by an overlook of Ethan Pond. I was starting to really enjoy hiking again!This bliss continued until a bit before the Ethan Pond Campsite junction, a couple hours later. The trail was still pretty flat, but I was heading into a swampy area. It was pretty, but there was too much mud and water. I slipped a couple times on the wooden planks into the mud, and was angry.I continued past the junction, aiming to start on the Presidential Range tonight. The descent down to Crawford Notch was relatively easy, and I made it down there around 4:30. I took a half hour break. Brute passed me, with the same goal in mind.I started the ascent up to Webster Cliffs at 5. The climb was slow and long, but I knew it would be. I had no problem with the climb up, and made it there around 6. Brute set up camp at an excellent dry, flat stealth spot. There was another space where I could camp, but I didn't think I had enough water. I chatted with Brute at the overlook, and he even took my photo - I didn't even think to ask to take one for him. Pretty selfish... hopefully I can return the favor for him some other time.Retrospectively, I wish I would have camped there. It was a long climb up and down multiple rock slabs through false summits between Mt Webster and Mt Jackson to Mitzpah Spring Hut, next to which the Nauman Campsite is. In addition to that, there was a lot of mud slop to slosh through. And to top it all off, it was foggy once I got on the ridge, so next to no views.I finally arrived to the hut at 9:45. I used up my free goods discounts, and bought a delicious, cakey brownie, and a coconut bar, and ate a bunch of snacks. I chatted with the Tom, who I thinknis the main caretaker for the hut, while I ate.Then, relying on a clear forecast, I cowboy camped that night on a shared tent platform in the tentsite. After some streamlined chores, I turned in around 11:30.