Date: 2003-09-17
From: Liberty Springs Campsite

To: Garfield Ridge Campsite
Miles today: 7.7
Weather: clear sky

Could there be a more perfect day, or a more perfect place to be than today on Franconia Ridge?? I don't think so! I got up this morning at 6:45 and did my trash picking...I was surprised at how much trash I found...a small ziplock baggie full. I ate my breakfast at the same time...efficient, although not the most appetizing job to be doing whilst eating. I brought my findings to Kate, who had just heard the weather, and told me it was supposed to be beautiful today. I went back to my site to get ready to go. Big Bird was ready before me, and was waiting, talking with Kate, at the rock with a view of Kinsman. We sat and chatted till about 8:45, when we figured we should get hiking. We said goodbye to Kate, knowing we'd see her tonight at the next campsite...she fills in other caretakers' days off. The first two miles went by quickly, with the terrain being quite cooperative...just a little scrambling toward the top of Little Haystack Mountain, or what we thought was! the top. We stopped for a break at the end of the rock scramble, both to eat and take pictures. Behind us was a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains. What we didn't realize was that we hadn't seen ANYTHING yet. We packed up and headed around the corner to discover the actual top of Little Haystack, as well as the start of the ridge walk that includes Little Haystack, Mt. Lincoln and Mt. Lafayette. I have never experienced anything like this before. I thought that ridge walking in the Smokies was amazing...and I don't want to knock the Smokies. But quite truthfully, they don't hold a candle to the Whites. Ridge walking above treeline is the ONLY way to go! The sides of the mountains sweep away to the sides, and you are surrounded by the most incredible views of more and more mountains. I can't possibly describe how it felt to hike Franconia Ridge today...maybe, that if there's a heaven on earth, I spent most of today there. I practically danced over the! whole ridge, such was my joy at being in this awe-some spot. We met lots of day and section hikers headed south. On the top of Mt. Lincoln, I looked to the east and saw a bear foraging on a slope below us. A day hiker let us use her binoculars to get a closer look. We took our time traversing the ridge, stopping at each peak to revel in the views, the power of the mountains that surrounded us. We were treated with occasional peeks of Mt. Washington, huge, looming in the distance, which was in and out of the clouds all day. The final peak we summitted was Mt. Garfield...not as high as the others, but from it we could see the entire ridge that we'd hiked. It really was incredible. We had a vista before us in which there was nothing man-made...perfection. After a half hour or so of basking in the glory of the sun and nature's beauty, we had to get going. The descent to the campsite took very little time...I greeted Kate, and talked about the day's hike with her. There are several other hikers here tonight, but we're the only thru-hike!rs. Kate wants me to do the same job here...guess I pick trash really well. I'm hitting the hay early again...it's chilly at 3500'! Today has reinforced for me all the reasons I came out here. I have experienced exquisite beauty...true peace...indescribable joy.