Date: 2013-09-30
From: Sidney Tippan Campsite

To: Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to
Miles today: 17.1

I left the door to my rainfly open so I could look up at the stars. As my eyes adjusted the inky blue sky became brighter with thousands (or perhaps millions?) of twinkly lights. If it weren't so cold I would attempt to cowboy camp, but my body is too beat up to mess with that at this point in the game. I woke up at 5:45, but I crawled right back into my sleeping bag when I came back from the privy. Even though I slept well, I still feel so, so tired. I got up and moving at 6:15. I wanted to cover as many miles as possible today. I know it's kind of a long shot at this point, but I'd like to try to get within striking distance of White House Landing for tomorrow. I've really been trying to mentally prepare myself in case it doesn't happen. There was a lot of coughing, hacking and sneezing in our campsite, so I guess I"m not the only one trying to keep a cold at bay. I just don't have time for that sort of thing right now.I was on the trail and headed up West Peak by 7:30. It was a steep climb, but the trail was in great shape and aided by a lot of nicely laid stone stairs. Again, here I am in the 100-mile Wilderness enjoying some of the best trail work I've seen in hundreds of miles. Ironic, no? The trail floated up and down several peaks before it made the final rocky pick-thru to the top of White Cap Mountain. I had comfortable stripped down to my shredded t-shirt, shorts, and cap that pulled low over my eyes to block the glaring sunlight. The view was fantastic. Only one far off cloud disected another mountain in half- coppery orange, white, coppery orange- like a pumpkin flavored whoopie pie. I carefully picked through the small, shifty, sharp grey rocks. I don't trust my poor right ankle even for a second. I know it wants so badly to be stable and reliable, but I've twisted it one too many times.There were a few large lakes down below, and I wondered which, if any of them, was where I am to meet Tom. I followed the trail around the side of the mountain, and BAM! There was Katahdin. It stretched out long and tall. I weeped for a moment. I've been processing so many emotions as of late, it's hard to know how I feel- proud, excited, nervous, scared, anxious, tired. Really, really tired. And somewhat relieved. However this is to end, it won't be long now. I took a few photos and tried to call Tom, but the call wouldn't connect. Oh well. I put away my phone and started the descent down White Cap Mountain. The trail down had even more impressive stairs than the trail going up. Oh my right ankle was so happy to have a solid, flat, sturdy place to land. I stopped at the Logan Brook Lean-to to have a late snack break. The trio- Rigs, Buffalo & Planet- were there as well. I think we'd all expected that climb up and over to be much more difficult than it was, so we were surprised to find ourselves there so early. There was a wooden sign with various locations and distances to those locations pointing northward on the AT. One of the locations read: Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to 11.7 mi. I looked at my watch, 11:15. Could I? It was a crazy thought and hope, especially since 11.7 miles has been taking me almost all day as of late. But if the trail continued its current trend of resembling a "foot path" rather than a "rock scramble" then maybe, just maybe....I be-bopped along, scrutinizing every step my right foot took. I realized my shoulders and neck were so tense. I'd consciously relax them, but a minute later I'd notice them all balled up again. The various bright colors of the fall leaves made my eyes cross and made me sort of dizzy as they passed beneath me. The shapes, colors and volume of leaves changed so frequently. One second it was solid yellow. Then bright reds. Then browns. Then various shades of burgundy. Sometimes there was a mix and sometimes it was mono-species. They were beautiful look at, but they make me nervous. Any number of small rocks, roots or just uneven ground could be hiding underneath them just waiting to trip me up.I was walking along through an open evergreen forest (with a soft straw floor, my favorite , and I heard something. I turned but saw nothing. A few seconds later, I heard it again, so I turned again. This time there was a hiker fast approaching. I stopped and stepped aside to let her pass. She never slowed down, but she said that her fiance was behind her. A few minutes later, as promised, he came along. He said his name was Canon, and the other hiker was Lady. I hadn't heard of either name before, but they were moving so fast that I doubted I would ever see them again. I stopped at the East Branch Lean-to. It was 1:00. My feet were killing me, and my stomach was growling. I had planned to stop here to eat, but I took a peek at the directions, and the directions showed a river ford only .3 miles ahead. No need to take the shoes off twice when you can do it only once. I got to the stream crossing, and I saw the couple of the other side. The guy was nice enough to come out and coach me across; some of the rocks were pretty shifty, he said. I was grateful for the advise. Once on the other side, I shed my shoes, aired out my rainfly and had some lunch.After lunch, the I continued my trod. The trail stayed merciful, and I made rather good time. I passed Mountain View Pond, and saw something flash on the water. I saw two people in a canoe paddling around. A few minutes later, I passed two section hikers heading south. They congratulated me, and for once I graciously and sincerely answered, "Thank you." Maine was finally being nice to me, so I was in a good mood. Until I started up Little Boardman Mountain. Talk about a useless PUD. To make it even worse, there was a sign saying that after the trail had been built, land surveyors came in and it was realized that the AT had veered off ATC land and on to private land. So the trail was rerouted down and around and zig-zagged back up in a hap-hazzard, smeared-down-the-sides-of-the-hill sort of way. I was not happy about that. Talk about bitching and whining on my part. Where was that dirt path? Finally I got down to Kokadjo-B Pond Rd. Right as I was about to cross a double-cab white truck sped by. I got to the other side, and right as I did, a second truck passed. This 100-mile Wilderness is full of people and vehicles!The trail skirted alongside Crawford Pond for about a half mile. Even though evening was setting in, the air was warm and the pond looked really inviting. If I weren't trying so hard to get to Tom by tomorrow, I would have set up camp there along those shores. The setting could not have been any nicer. I really hope Tom will get to enjoy some of it, especially since the colors seem to be peaking right now. I realized today how fortunate I am to be timing the end of my hike now. I carefully worked my way across the rock and driftwood dam. I wondered if there were any beavers beneath my feet. I cruised along for the next 2.5 miles. I stopped to fill up on water from a spring that came right out of a rock. I felt silly treating the water, but the last thing I need is giardia this late in the game. So I added the yellow chemical mixture to my ice-cold, crystal clear spring water. Silliness. I bobbed and wobbled over some broken, rotten boardwalks. I figured that my chances of catching my heel on a root while walking on a boardwalk was lower than if I were walking on the ground, so it seemed like it was worth the extra effort. I heard the roar of the water falls, and I knew I'd made it to the lean-to! Woohoo! Rigs, Buffalo and Planet had their tents set up, but I opted to go in the shelter. I know that my tent will be dry in the morning, and I find that I can usually get on the trail 10-15 mins faster if I stay in the shelters. I dug a preemptive poop hole for the morning. I've eaten dinner, signed the shelter register, and peed for the night. Now I just need the umph to get up at 5:30 so I can be on the trail by 7:00. I have 14.9 miles to get from here to White House Landing and Tom by sundown tomorrow. Oh, ankles and knees, don't fail me now! On a side note, I've got some serious chaffing/rash on my lower back/butt (from my pack rubbing on my sweaty skin & shredded shirt). My poor, poor body. Sweet dreams, AT.