Date: 2008-09-28
From: Sydney Tappan Campsite, ME

To: .1 past Logan Brook Lean-to, ME
Miles today: 5.5
Weather: clear sky

Wow, really warm nite, but the rain came back full force. I don't mind sleeping in it, I love the pitter patter on my tarp, but I do mind when it continues into the hiking day, and today was a miserable day. Our plan to dodge hiking over the final 3 major peaks, to include White Cap, didn't exactly work. Oh well...it was drizzling when we got up @ 6:30 a.m., so Incessant got her first practice with tearing down camp under protection of her tarp. She did well, and we were off by 9 a.m. We were both in full raingear, pack covers, OR hats...the whole deal. We started an immediate climb up West Peak, which was about a 1 mile steep climb. Only wildlife was a few brave birds chirping, but all of the animals seemed hunkered down for the rain. I don't mind climbs on days like these since it helps build body heat, which I struggled with all day. I would sometimes go up really fast, then back down, then up again, because I just couldn't stay warm all day. The high ranged from 60-mid 50's depending on elevation and except for on the top of White Cap, which is exposed, there was almost no wind. It could have been worse for sure. Today was momentus in that we finished the major mountain ranges in the 100 Mile Wilderness. The first 53 miles are the hardest, and now the last difficult climb is Katahdin., so the terrain is MUCH flatter from here till Katahdin, with only a few 4-500 ft bumps. We got to the top of West Peak and just kept moving. 1 down, 2 to go. The trail was an absolute mess, totally flooded, 6" deep water in places. It was miserable hiking today...my least favorite day in the wilderness. We got to the bottom, and it was flat for about .4, which meant totally flooded trail. I did get to test the gortex lined shoes today, versus all of my other Keens. I think it allowed my feet to stay drier for about 1 extra hour, but eventually they were totally soaked, so I can't say my opinion of gortex has changed. I had avoided all direct puddles as well, but the pouring rain (at times) soaked thru the lining. Next was climbing Hay Mtn., which was an easier climb, but a bit longer. We wanted to get up and over this mountain before having lunch. We both agreed though, the rain makes all of the colors so brilliant, and there were some gorgeous colors today. We got to the bottom of Hay Mtn., and found a place to sit briefly to eat lunch. We couldn't lounge because we got cold (especially me), so we ate as quickly as possible and moved again. Whew..2 down 1 to go. Just before a side trail in this area, I hit the 2100 mile mark! I actually didn't realize it @ the time. The climb up White Cap Mtn. seemed to go on FOREVER. It wasn't that it was overly steep, but damn it took so log to reach the summit. It was about a 1.5 mile climb, parts were steep, but it wasn't horrible either. Between the 2 major ranges, the Barren Chairback range (the first you encounter as a nobo) is far harder than this Gulf Hagas-White Cap range. I finally hiked ahead to get warm and to see how far the summit was, then I turned around and hiked back to Incessant. I didn't really want to separate today, because the trail was treacherous in regards to slippery wet rock, and it was prime hypothermia weather.   I knew her knee was hurting too, and just wanted to be there in case I could help with any tricky rock scrambling. White Cap made me feel like I was back in the Whites, only with friendly trail. The trail was cut thru very thick hemlock and spruce forts, the kind where you really couldn't bushwack even if you wanted to. It was beautiful in its own right though, the misty rain (and sometimes pouring rain) pelting everything with no other sound. We finally reached the summit of White Cap, and there would have been a tremendous view (you can see Katahdin I've heard), but not today. It was cold, windy, rainy, swirling white and grey clouds and just a hint of an outline of mountains nearby. The top of White Cap is all chunky rock, sort of like Mt. Washington, and it's all exposed, so it was slow going on this wet stuff as the trail wrapped around the peak. I just wanted to get back down into the trees for some wind protection, but it took a bit. Once we got there, it was a 1.3 mile descent about half way down the mountain to Logan Brook Lean-to. This descent could have been a bitch, but it was lovely due to the incredible stone stairs. Only thing slowing us down was the slick wetness. I could hear a roaring stream eventually, but couldn't see anything. Incessant and I discussed the order to set up camp if it was still raining when we got there. This system is supposed to clear out tonight, so I'm crossing my fingers for some warming sunshine tomorrow. At 4:18 p.m., we decided I should hike on and find a campsite at or near the lean-to. Ok, so I swear it was the longest 1.3 miles from the top. I kept going and going and winding downward. I almost think the mileage was wrong. Eventually, I came to a forest of almost pure yellow, from the fall trees. Really gorgeous, and I stopped and looked down to see a privy. Yippy! It was 4:41 p.m. I got to Logan Brook Lean-to, and the ground was flooded everywhere, so I kept following the AT in hopes of finding a good campsite. As luck would have it, there is a great site about .1 down. I dropped my pack and went back to the shelter, to leave Incessant a note. We hadn't seen anyone today...at all. Guess everyone is taking cover from the nasty weather. I went back and the rain had stopped, so I got my hammock and tarp up, then I decided to use those guys' technique, and I howled loudly waiting to hear back from Incessant. It worked, she responded and I knew she was close...as did she. She showed up a bit after 5, absolutely beat. I was most concerned about her getting dry and warm, so I helped her set up camp ad told her to change immediately into dry clothes. I still had water to fetch @ the beautiful cascading Logan Brook. On the way up, I finally saw 3 hikers, we all said hi. One, a guy, is from Ann Arbor, MI, where I used to work. I got water, got back to camp, and changed myself, only after throwing the bearbag rope. 2nd try this time.... Incessant was really exhausted, having a hard time organizing her thoughts. She has her dry weather routine down, but this weather makes you have to change how you do things. I wanted to get some hot liquids into both of us, so I warmed some water and added a Special K protein tea drink mix from Persistent. It wasn't half bad hot, and it felt so good to drink hot liquids.   I made dinner and had to force extra food down Incessant, who was beside herself with exhaustion. She did climb and descend 3 peaks today with a sore knee, which was a lot. She never complains either, she just takes it as it comes, which is better than most hikers (including me sometimes). After dinner, it was misting a bit, I cleaned up and we hoisted our food bags. It felt SO good to get in my dry warm hammock. Wow...a little bit of heaven. Tomorrow is a much easier day, so we are increasing our mileage so we can be @ Whitehouse Landing on Wednesday...which will be day # 11 without a shower. You don't even want to know what we smell like. LOL This will have been the longest stretch I've gone without bathing. Luckily, I'm not sweating much due to our slower pace, but man...I can't wait to shower. As for Incessant, well let¢s just say we never knew her hair could get so oily! LOL In general she has well balanced hair, and I told her if she were to ride a public bus, she¢d leave a spot on the head rest. Gross huh? We both keep laughing about it though. A long day, but now the worst is over. I'm so glad and SO proud of Incessant for facing all of this with me. Must get some sleep now. It's 59 damp degrees in my hammock, but I am toasty warm. ~Certain