Date: 2014-09-29
From: Southern Wilcox Shelter

To: Harpers Ferry
Miles today: 620.0
Weather: light rain

Well... It's been quite some time since I last updated this journal. Over 500 miles, in fact. I can explain. Ever since I left Vermont, I've been able to many more miles than previously. Gone are the days where I would do nine miles by 1:00 and call it a day, where I had a set dinner time of 5:00 PM. Instead, it has been replaced with the rule "you can always do 10 after three", where three miles an hour is an easy pace and anything less than 15 miles a day is an easy nero. This has given very little time to write out the long daily entries I used to post, as all of my time is now devoted to hiking, eating, or resting. Writing out a detailed account of my time on the trail proves taxing, even during zero days.There are other potential reasons as well. The days are certainly much less interesting, making it difficult sometimes to even know what to say for my personal physical journal. Arrogance and atrophy also have a hand in it; with thoughts that "I don't need to let others know about this hike, it's my adventure, dammit" and "there's so many days to catch up on, it would be a disservice to attempt to write about them at this point". In the end, I guess these are just excuses and symptoms of a desire to truly be disconnected from home, if only to make the homecoming that much sweeter.With all of that being said, I decided the most convenient way to go about this would be to simply do a recap of everything from southern Mass to DC; my current location. It won't be as detailed, and perhaps even inaccurate as I recall days and emotions long since past, but I'll give it a shot.SOUTHERN MASS-AH-CHEW-SETS/CON-ETIQUETTEEven with a twenty now under my belt, I found 17-19 miles each day starting to really have an effect on me. My legs legitimately felt weak at times as I climbed the relatively meager slopes of Mass and CT. The Bearded Woods Hostel in northern CT proved to be excellent respite, however, with amazing meals, friendly people and reassuring comments about my speed thus far. Hudson and Lu have an amazing set up there; I highly recommend it to any hikers passing through that area next year.Otherwise CT proved to be a relatively enjoyable state. Mosquitoes were the worst since Maine, and the ridge lines were dull and rocky, but the pleasant walks along the Housatonic River and the quaint towns along the way made up for any of those gripes. Before I knew it I was passing into New York State, the line between New England and the Mid Atlantic.NEW YORKThis state... Perhaps my least enjoyed yet, due mostly to the conditions upon my arrival. A sweltering heat wave coupled with intense humidity made hiking it's surprising steepness a challenge. One day right after Ft. Montgomery, where Wolfburger caught back up with me and we proceeded to do 19.7 miles, was perhaps my most difficult day yet, with six liters of water drank to offset the sweat.New York had some good moments, to be sure. A zero in Fort Montgomery was my most relaxing day on the trail thus far, the delis were always a treat, and the shelters were mostly decent (ordered pizza to RPH shelter; a neat side effect of having civilization so close all of the time). I also saw the greatest assortment of wildlife thus far, including a bear and a rattlesnake. Nonetheless I was extremely relieved to leave that state.NEW JERSEYNot much to say about this little state. My introduction to it was when Wolfburger and I went to the drive in in Warwick. 6 dollars for a campsite and a double feature? I'll take it! Other than that, the terrain consisted of rocks and boardwalks. Throughout my time in New Jersey I was getting mentally prepared for what I thought to be one of the most challenging parts of the entire AT: Pennsylvania.PENNSYLVANIA/MARYLANDThe state started off with Delaware Water Gap, a town as pleasant as any I have see. Thus far (a slice of pie and a hot dog for 2 dollars. It was called 'the true love special'. Then everything went to hell. The rocks of Pennsylvania came quickly, and although I consistently was doing high-teens to 22 miles per day, my morale was shattering along the way. Uninteresting landscape and the foot destroying terrain quickly made this one of my least favorite states. After 200 miles or so I finally got past Duncannon and into the Cumberland Valley, where the rocks subsided and gave way to some beautiful farmland.Wolfburger stayed a couple of nights in Boiling Springs to let some shin splints heal, but I continued on to Pine Grove Furnace State Park: the halfway point and home of the half-gallon challenge. Knowing I had made it this far made my morale soar... For s bit. Then from there to Harpers Ferry, I found it difficult to press on and put in the high miles I could. I was content with 13 mile days, with lots of breaks and sleeping in late. My theory is upon arrival at the halfway point, my subconscious believed it had achieved victory, and rest was at hand. In reality, I still had 60 miles until my 'trail vacation'; 60 miles that went by at an unparalleled slowness.HARPERS FERRY/DCBut of course, I made it to Harpers Ferry, which in my mind was nearly a myth weaved by the northbounders as a clever ruse to give SoBo's false hope. To my sarcastic surprise, it actually existed. Upon arrival, I was greeted by a familiar face: Magellan, someone who I hadn't seen since the beginning of the Whites. She skipped ahead to do the Shenadoa with her father, but will return after Springer (so she's not a filthy yellow blazer, don't worry!). I grabbed dinner with them and some prominent ATC members (including the singular ranger for the entire length of the AT), and spent the night in yet another ATC volunteers home. Thanks, Greg!I was all set to go into DC that next day, only to discover the train was delayed by 10 hours. That is not a typo. Thus I waited in DC for the rest of the day, grabbed dinner with Wolfburger and some other SoBo's, and finally arrived in the suburb of Lorton at around 12:30.Here I am staying with the Browns, second cousins who I haven't seen in over a decade. My goal here is two fold; to see some of the museums, channelling my inner tourist, and to have some rest for the latter half of the trail. Sights include most of the Smithsonian museums, monuments, that massive Air and Space museum out by the airport, and Mt. Vernon.***Flash forward, now writing this back in Harpers Ferry.***Thoroughly enjoyed my respite in the DC area, exploring museums and catching up with the Browns and Keils (I apparently really like talking about the trail. Like, too much; I could go on for hours if I didn't feel guilty about it). It's amazing how time in a city can make me long for life on the trail again. In DC, everyone seemed so guarded. Few smiles, and few opportunities to nod at someone and say hello. No one recognized me as a hiker, but rather perhaps a strange young man with poor grooming habits and a even poorer fashion sense. Near the end of my stay I wanted nothing more than to be outside again. To sit in a shelter with some strangers, mutually understanding of the adventures we were each on.Some other musings of the trail...-My legs are not as impressive as I would have hoped they would be. Not terribly athletic looking, just normal.-Seriously considering perhaps not getting a haircut after the trail. Looking back at pictures of me with short hair, I look so different, and not altogether in a positive way. I almost think having longer hair potentially looks better. Now if only I could grow a beard that matches, I might actually look like an AT hiker.-By the two thoughts above, you can probably see that I'm still pretty vain. It's amazing how much I care about the image of the trail; looking like someone that just hiked 1.2k miles. I want people to see my pack and say "wow, you hiked here from Maine?" A massive amount of my motivation is simply to be able to tell people I did this, that I walked the entire Appalachian Trail (although I am also still out here for the stories/experience/confidence). Sometimes I wonder if that's healthy, to be so obsessed with the glory of it. What do you guys think? Is it alright to look forward to, and even revel in, when people ask in awe how many miles you've walked? Or is it against what the trail is about, this "footpath for those seeking fellowship with the wilderness"?I'm going to college. As of right now, of the two schools that have replied (MSU and UI) I have gotten into both of them. I am still waiting for word from UW and WWU, my two first pick schools, but now at least I can hike with the knowledge that after the trail I have a plan. A future.Anyway, now I continue south. Virginia lies ahead, over 500 miles.And quite honestly? I can't wait.