Date: 2006-04-10
From: Deer Park Shelter

To: Hot Springs, NC
Miles today: 3.2
Weather: clear sky

For years I've joked that I'd hike the trail before I'm 40. This year I got serious. Here I am, and I'm 39 today. Happy Birthday to me.I had a memorable one like I planned last night. I woke up at 4:00 am and got packed up. I hit the trail at 4.30 and headed for Hot Springs and a greasy diner breakfast.It was dark but the stars and three-quarter moon were bright. It was chilly but not freezing. Like the last night hike into Fontana Dam, it was beautiful. Last time I was with 4 other people. This time I was alone, another new experience on the trail. I didn't feel like meeting a bear in the dark, but that little bit of fear is just one more thing to face and put behind. More and more people are telling their bear stories. I'll have my chance but I'd rather it be in daylight.I kept my headlamp focused on the footpath but kept stopping to look at the stars, the trees, the orange moon. There are so many ways to see the trail and I was to see it every way I can. I started talking to a myself like I often do when walking alone. I sang a few songs including Happy Birthday Dear Boulder. I had a one-sided conversation with the Grease Monkey. He's more introspective than me. I liested all the things I missed about home. Pretty short list, just Andrew and the little routines of the house. I focused on my hike as well. Hiking alone in the dark on my birthday in North Carolina, not a way I'd ever thought about celebrating, but a great way to do it.It's just 3 miles from the shelter to town. I took it slow in the dark and because there was no reason to hurry. After a mile or so I could see the lights from town far below, just a few. I saw more as I got closer. It was like looking down not up to see the stars.The trail out of the forest ends at a small parking lot. Strange to suddenly see head and tail lights reflected back at you. From there I lost the trail so I just headed into town to find the diner. A friendly guy at the stop sign gave me directions to food. I'll go back in the morning to finish my missed steps. I ate a huge breakfast as the sun came up.Hot Springs is literally a one-street town. Impossible to get lost here, lucky for me. The place is lousy with hikers in the way P-Town is with queers and dykes and it's not even high season yet.The usual errands ensued. When a lady in town was sharing space at the laundromat, I used my best hiker etiquette, something that can't be said about everyone in the biz. I needed to wash my shirt and politely asked if she minded if I change around the corner. She was glad that I asked and said it was fine. Sometimes hikers forget that they are guests in a town. Often they act and say that because they contribute to the local economy that they can do anything they want in a one-horse town like Hot Springs. Of course after the lady left I was free to do another full monty so I could wash my shorts.I picked up my mail while my clothes dried and opened boxes outside the laundry. You know you're a hiker when you squeal with more glee over fresh ziplock bags than over a box of poptarts. I shared a few things right away with the couple from Indiana. Freight Train and his wife.Irish came along and we started making arrangements for a hiker hot spring. All were. You get a group rate for 3 or more. At 5:00, 11 of us squeezed into a hot tub. There are about 15 open air tubs behind tall fences for privacy. Water is piped in from the actual hot spring. It was wonderful. Mineral water at 104 degrees eases all hiking aches and stiffness. Interesting group made up of all men aged 25 to 65. We had to rotate every few minutes so the guys on the inside step move into the deeper part of the tub.When I got out I was so relaxed that my body and limbs felt like they were made of lead. I wandered slowly across the field and back to the campground where the younger set were gathered at a table. I was immediately handed a Guinness stout. I'm no beer fan, but I enjoyed it immensely.Conversation ranged from beer to hiking to international travel to the diversity of salamander species in the Smokies. The Smokies are the only home to the hell bender salamander which gows to a foot long.The crowd moved to the pub for burgers and of course more beer. I drank half a glass of something or other but devoured my burger. The waitress was amazing. She kept separate checks for each hiker and called all dozen or so of us by our trail names. I couldn't even remember the names. We tipped well.On to the campfire. It was a big one and Dinosaur had it started well. This was also an interesting group. All 30 and under including an 18 year old, baby faced Double Shot who had no trouble getting served at the pub. I circulated a bag of jelly beans in one direction and wasabi peas in the other. The table talk pies disappeared. After finish the Worcester, Mass home town brand one of the local homegrown brands made its way around. I was touched by the 2nd singing of Happy Birthday. By now, well after hiker midnight, I staggered to my tent.Great day including aquisition of new hiking shoes, ones that fit perfectly. No more toenail or blister worries. Diana included an American Express giftcard in the birthday box. I contributed to a big portion of the purchase. To double my luck LL Bean is refunding me 100% for the lost pair.A damn good day.