Date: 2020-07-23
From: Rock Spring Hut

To: Gravel Springs Hut
Miles today: 28.4
Weather: clear sky

Felt a little introspective today. I've now come farther since Damascus than I hiked to get to Damascus. Virginia is a lo-ong state. Maybe I'm getting the Virginia Blues, that loss of the excitement and purpose of the early days. While I don't feel depressed, there are mornings I lack motivation, and I definitely feel I've gotten into a bit of a rut. Things aren't new anymore. When I see a beautiful flower or amazing view or interesting wildlife I think "You already have a dozen pictures of that". I knew this would come. It's one of the differences between a thruhike and a long section. Nothing retains its initial glow forever. Part of the challenge is finding the drive, and maybe the deeper purpose, to keep going. I am fortunate to have some time off with my family to look forward to. That may be the catalyst to reenergize me. For now, I don't know whether to slow down a bit and smell more roses, or set myself new and higher hurdles. Either way, I need to step out of my rut.It was a cool morning thanks to an overcast sky. It sprinkled lightly as I hiked four miles to Skyland over rocky sidehill trail. The dining room didn't open until noon but the grab-and-go stand had microwavable breakfast sandwiches and cold teas, all I needed. There were people about but it seemed pretty subdued. That's the vibe I've gotten from Shenandoah each time I've been here. Seems like it should be more popular, busier, more crowded like other national parks. But outside of Old Rag - which is well off the AT - there are no marquee attractions. It's more like a large state park, attractive to fair weather weekend dayhikers and backpackers. Still, I saw no backpackers on the trail today, even though this is the most popular stretch of the park.Around noon the sun came out and baked a few liters of water out of me. I stretched to double dip the waysides again, this time Skyland and the Elkwallow Wayside. But Elkwallow is 18.5 miles from Skyland, and closes at 5. So I booked and covered it in less than six hours. I'm finding that moderate climbs, 400 to 800 feet, barely bother me any more and don't slow me down. I'd almost rather climb than descend these rocky trails. Almost.A mile south of Elkwallow I finally passed a backpacker. A Chris Pratt look-a-like out for the night.At the wayside the grill was actually open! Cheeseburger, fries, and blackberry ice cream helped to fill my hollow leg. A young guy from Frederick, Maryland named Tre stopped in, on the first of a multi-day backpacking trip. He seemed interested in hiking to as many waterfalls as he could. That's one thing the AT bypasses. It sticks to the ridgeline, skipping all the side trails to falls a mile or three away. Maybe a reroute could take in a couple of these and add some variety to the traverse.Leaving the wayside I soon came across Chris Pratt again, now going south. Or did I take a wrong turn and I'm heading south? So confused! But he'd simply gone north and turned around, thinking he was too far from his car. Never did get the full story. Seemed like he was training, as he mentioned carrying a thirty pound pack as if it were unnecessary.The sun disappeared and clouds sprinkled on me again as I crossed Hogback and Little Hogback mountains to reach Gravel Springs Hut. I could see sheets of gray on the western side of the valley, probably heavier rain on the way.At the shelter were a father and grown daughter, on leave from her Army base, out for a week. Also Turtle, a young North Carolinan southbounding 700 miles from Harpers Ferry to Max Patch, and a Santa Claus-looking Hoosier named Chet (as in Chet the reindeer in training) southbounding from Harpers to Springer. Two men later arrived, one of whom maintains a stretch of the AT in Shenandoah around Turks Gap and spent a lot of time putting in "water bars" to divert runoff. The rain did come, but not nearly as heavy as yesterday. 28 miles today took it out of me. The feet are sore, and the humidity has sapped my strength and enthusiasm. Looking forward to stopping near Front Royal tomorrow.