Date: 2004-08-20
From: Cloud Pond Shelter

To: Sidney Tappan Campsite
Miles today: 18.6
Weather: broken clouds

We were up before 6am but Trip got out before me. It was likely, with similar hiking speeds that we wouldn't see each other again. His plan was to finish a day earlier than me and there was no reason why he couldn't. It was kind of sad to be solo again but kind of not too. Setting my own pace and taking my own breaks was very comfortable. Being driven yesterday was great due to the weather and just wanting to be sure to get a good jump on the Hundred Mile Wilderness. The weather today was improving from the get go. The ceiling was much higher and the blue clouds were gaining on the gray ones. The day began with ups and down over mountains with such original names as Fourth and Third. The views were great and that would include those from Chairback Mountain. Chairback Mtn was a nice rock summit but the wind drove me back up the trail a bit for lunch with a different though still spectacular view.A couple of hours later around 2:45 it was time for another river ford. This was a pretty long one. Oddly there was a family group crossing toward me and they really had nothing with them. Granted the day had turned pretty nice but still wasn't this supposed to be deep in the wilderness. Through a little discussion they told me that there was a dirt road to a parking area not far. This was the access to Gulf Hagas, ¢The Grand Canyon of the East¢. Well, that explained it. Apparently the gulf is a gorge some 500 feet deep with lots of water falls along the way. It is not quite on the AT however. Maybe some other time. There were actually lots of day trippers on the trail for the next couple of miles. It was like walking a nature trail to some falls along the Kankamagus Highway back home. Soon they were all in the past and it was just another 3.5 miles of moderate though steady climbing up to Carl A Newhall Lean-to. It was about 6pm at the shelter and certainly the folks who had already occupied it figured I'd be staying and started making room. But there was plenty of sun light left and a fair climb of 840' in 0.9 miles just ahead that wouldn't make me so happy first thing in the morning. Besides the sky was clearing nicely and perhaps there would be a nice rock to sleep on up there on the summit of Gulf Hagas Mountain.Another 40 minutes put me on the summit. It was a fine summit for 2,680 feet with nice outlooks over the bushes and around the trees. There was however no campable terrain. Just as the trail began to descend the other side something caught my eye on a rock by my boot. It was white paint. It was the letter K. How odd. What could that mean. Looking around and out ahead of me it could only be one thing. That mountain sticking up into the cloud had to be Katahdin. There was no question the K meant it could be seen from here. But, it was pretty hazy today and perhaps visibility wasn't good enough to see that far. The thing with the cloud did seem to be too close. Who knew. Not me.Never the less my spirits were high with thoughts of Katahdin and my feet hopped the rocks down the slopes of Hagas. My eyes kept scanning for campable terrain for a bit, but soon gave up. Sidney Tappen Campsite was less than a mile ahead. That should work fine.So there was Sidney Tappen Campsite, no more than a wide grassy spot in the trail. A couple named Rising Sun & M were there along with Nobody & Alright. They had all tented last night at Cloud Pond. They invited me to join them. It was a little crowded and the cigarette thing would make me unhappy so I said I'd just look around a bit more. There must be tent platforms or actual designated sites here some place.At the far end of the little clearing near the trees was a long narrow pile of tool. Heavy tools like picks, shovels, hazel hoes and rock bars. Oh yes. There be a trail crew here. That made me happy. Just around the bend I spied a huge tarp pitched in a clearing about 20 feet down a little side trail. I turned down there and greeted them as a grateful thru-hiker with many thanks of appreciation. I told them of my trail adoption and therefore understanding of the work they did. Then I asked if they knew where my tent might get pitched. They pointed down a path.Down the path a bit there were some places where the tall reeds and grasses had been matted down. It wasn't entirely clear if these had been human or moose camps but it didn't really matter. This was any thing but flat and smooth but it would be secluded and quiet. My camp was not conducive to a good kitchen so I returned to the trail crew tarp and asked if they would mind if I fixed and ate my dinner in their company. They were all about that.They were a jovial bunch from the Maine ATC. It was obvious that this guy would not be cramping their style. While cooking my dinner they went about hoisting their considerable supply of food onto a cable slung between the trees above my head. There was some laughing concern for the possibility of the whole thing crashing down onto my lit stove. But that passed in short order with my laughter joining in.It had gotten dark while rotini and pesto with cheese (which tantalized my new found friends) filled my belly and one of the guys broke out a guitar. He started playing and the whole gang started singing along. This was a 20s to early 30s crowd but the songs they had were all mine. James Taylor, Neil Young, Jackson Brown and the like was what they were a requesting and singing along with. It was just great and so exciting. There was nothing to do but to join in of course. Everybody kept struggling for the right words.One of the younger guys asked at the end of one song if the guitar player knew ¢Big Rock Candy Mountain¢ but confessed he couldn't remember the words. With a grin and a chuckle and a quiet thanks to Alex B., I said, I know the words. With that admission and a little hesitation from time to time I led the song and we all had such fun with it. There were plenty of other songs to be sung and eventually we realized sleep was needed to prepare for tomorrow, another good and hard day in the mountains.What a fine closing to my second day in the Hundred Mile Wilderness after another good days hike of 18.6 miles. Thanks not only for the trail works but the good company and the good times M.A.T.C. trail crew. The cool thing was that some of them were inspired by me too.