Date: 2003-08-26
From: ME27, Stratton, ME (1400') 

To: Safford Notch Campsite (2240') 
Miles today: 10.4
Weather: overcast clouds

Aloha! Oh my heavens, I think I've fallen in-love! Strangely enough it's with an inanimate object and one that I will probably have a difficult time describing. I¢ll try though, promise. Right after I get us to that point.Coffee's and my day began by meeting CeeBee and her friend Irene, the gal with the car, early for breakfast. Every local person I had spoken to mentioned eating at a place called Maine-ly Yours. Sounded good to me. The unfortunate part is that every time we attempted to get there the place was closed. Our timing sucked. The best we could do was breakfast this morning. The food was decent but I wouldn't have called it anything to rave about. That makes me think they must have great lunches or dinners to have drawn such acclaim. Cute restaurant though with the moose out front. I probably should have taken a picture so later I can state that I saw one - even if it was cardboard.While reviewing the map last night it dawned on us (Coffee and me) that the mountains we were about to hike across were pretty much the last of the big stuff until right before Katahdin. Now that's a very pleasant thought. Actually it¢s an awesome thought but hard one to believe. I wonder why that is.Today we begin our journey across the Bigelow Mountain range. The Bigelow Mountain is known as Maine's "Second Mountain". During the 1960s and '70s, land developers had plans to turn the Bigelow Range into the "Aspen of the East" but opponents forced a state referendum on the issue. In 1976, the citizens of Maine decided, by a 3000-vote margin, to have the state purchase the land and create a 33,000-acre wilderness preserve. From Stratton to Flagstaff Lake, you walk through what could have been a series of ski lifts, slopes, and summit houses. Instead it is view after unobstructed and un-littered view often above tree line. It's a daunting looking range for sure. But now we know, ohhh... so worth the trip.As always, the hike began immediately UP. This time though CeeBee joined our merry band of two. Starting at Stratton Brook Pond Road (1400') we went first to Cranberry Stream Campsite (1550') but didn't linger. From there it was UP to Horns Pond Lean-to (3160'), which is located on a lovely clear pond, for lunch. It was a perfectly placed shelter too after that climb.This was the first shelter I've come across that had three, not one or two, but three privys. One is currently out of commission for whatever reason but the other two are sparkling clean, odor free and a pleasure to uh... visit. Caretaker Meg has done an exceptional job. She was also wise in her choice of lunch spots for us - a large rock pond-side on a gorgeous blue day. Had the winds been a little less and the sun a bit more intense I swear I would have gone swimming. But such was not the case. I'll have to try for a swim at the next pond. The lunch was good though.From there it was to continue UP to South Horn (3805') with breathtaking views to Sugarloaf Mountain behind us. Continuing UP we hit the West Peak of Bigelow Mountain (4145'). The views from here were breathtaking. Literally. I swear I stopped breathing because all the air in me had been stolen. If I say majestic that would give you a tiny clue as to what I was seeing but only a tiny one. I lack the words once again to describe the painting set out before me. It was... phenomenal. As was standing once again above the tree line. It was absolutely gorgeous! The Falstaff Lake below was almost to fantastic to look at from above. The water resembled glass and there wasn't a house to be seen ANYWHERE on this huge lake. The sight truly did take my breath away. Unbelievable.After catching our breath, we trotted down to Avery Memorial Campsite (3815') for a snack and coffee. This campsite is located in the Little Bigelow Col. This deep cleft between West Peak and Avery Peak is a beautiful (though often cold) place to spend the night. With good weather you can catch sunrise or sunset views from either peak. Just coffee today please. Too much time remaining in the day and several more miles to cover before I would allow myself to sleep.Before being there long enough to become chilled, we were heading UP to Avery Peak (4088'). Another absolutely gorgeous view of the lake below. Not just the lake though. We could turn 360 degrees and see the ranges we had crossed over the past several days, the path to come and everything else in between. It was again ¢ outstanding! I could have stood atop that mountain for hours loving every minute of it. To top off the views, the weather remained almost perfect. Gorgeous!As I hiked down off that mountain I became almost nostalgic. Sad, if you will, to be leaving the last of the big peaks. It told me that my Grand Adventure is slowly coming to an end. Something I want to hurry while at the same time I want to prolong. It's a mixed bag of emotions right now. The next several weeks are going to be interesting to say the least.Our journey down took us to a sign that said "Old Man's Head, Excellent View" (3300'). There aren't many signs out here that actually say "excellent view" or "outstanding view" so when they do; you tend to want to see why this one was specifically chosen. We took the .1-mile offshoot trail to the view. We decided it was... excellent! We lounged atop a large granite rock slab overlooking the valley below. We laughed, we shot pictures of our feet, we sat entranced by a Canada Jay, and sat quietly by contemplating what was ahead. It was a fantastic break at the perfect spot with the best of hiking companions on a fabulous day. How much more could I possibly ask for? Nothing.We finally did get up and move on down the mountain to Safford Notch Campsite (2240'). Not the greatest of spots but not horrible either. Tonight there is a large group of college kids taking up the limited campsites and one of the two tent platforms. CeeBee is set up in a small tent site, I'm on an animal path and Coffee is set up in only his bag beneath a rock overhang. Not the best but they do work. It's only for a night.The only negative for the day that I can think of is that my digital camera has hit 500 pictures on this memory card. I believe that's the max. I sure wish my other card had arrived at Rangeley. My fingers are crossed that there is more memory available than I think. I see lots more Kodak moments coming. Don't want to miss a one.Okay, I'm tired and need to get some sleep. The last of the big stuff comes tomorrow when we cross the Little Bigelow Mountain. There's still some work to be done. Wow! Something just ran into the bottom backside of my tent - twice! Ahhh... I seem to be in a chipmunk's normal nightly track. Oops. She/he isn't happy! Sorry. Night-night.Blood, Sweat & Tears: the views could bring tears to your eyesAches and Pains: you know... kneesMoans andGroans: the Bigelows can't last forever; I will be back.Critter count: 1x garter snake, 1x chipmunk, 2x red squirrels, 1x Canada JayCountdown: 177.4 miles