Date: 2017-08-14
From: Rattle River Lodge and Hostel

To: Full Goose Shelter
Miles today: 21.3
Weather: few clouds

Two nights in a row on a real mattress. I could get used to this. The breakfast table is full by the time I get down, but the coffee and waffles are bottomless. I'm in no rush today. Marshmallow's shoulder feels better, thankfully. I donate my NH trail map to a southbounder - won't be needing that anymore. I head out after having my picture taken for the hiker yearbook by the publisher Odie who happens to be staying at the Rattle River hostel. It's a facebook for thruhikers and long section hikers to contact each other after their hikes. Which is great, because we rarely get around to exchanging numbers on the trail. I head out to the trail along some local roads. It's a gorgeous day. In fact, it's the first time I've seen Mt Washington not covered by clouds. At first the trail is pleasant. I pass Roam, a fifty-something lady doing a long Boiling Springs to Katahdin section to finish the trail she started ten years ago. I give her a hand as we encounter a few large boulder climbs. There are great views of the Presidentials from every peak. I also meet a young guy named Waffles who started in Harper's Ferry like me. Then I meet Daypack finishing up his snack. He's a 58 year-old who quit his job 12 years ago after the kids left for college and has hiked the AT three times, the PCT twice, the Camino de Santiago twice, Ireland, Scotland, and soon New Zealand. This is his fourth AT hike and he says it "accidentally" turned into a thruhike. He carries a very light pack, hence the name. He is very content with his life and simply loves being out here.After a while the trail turns difficult and tedious and I am not simply loving being out here. Southbounders warned me southern Maine would be tough, but I was hoping they were exaggerating. It's similar to the Wildcat/Carter stretch yesterday or Kinsman Ridge several days ago. There are lots of rocks, roots, and mud, and often boulder, ledge, and bedrock scrambles. Some places have ladders or steel rungs in the rock. It's not just slow going, the downhills are sometimes scary with wet rock and no obvious sound footing. Again I can't believe that blind people, people with prosthetic limbs, and older people have finished all this. But Daypack and some southbounders today tell me it gets better after Andover, which I should reach tomorrow. We'll see!There are many small climbs and summits today, maybe more than yesterday but I lose track. Each gives fantastic 360 degree views to the horizon. Near the end of the day as I head for the shelter I watch the sun set over the mountains. I cross into Maine in mid afternoon with little fanfare. New Hampshire said goodbye by having me descend a tower of enormous boulders at my own peril. Maine says hello with mud and more boulders. I take off my shirt and attach it to my pack to dry as it's hotter than it's been in a week and I'm not used to it. By evening I find the shirt is gone, torn away during one of the harrowing boulder descents no doubt. I'll use my sleeping shirt tomorrow and get a new shirt in town. That one was full of small holes anyway, and looked filthy even coming out of the wash.After a punishing day I arrive at the Full Goose Shelter where Pretty Boy and The Kid are eating dinner. The Kid's younger brother is joining him for a few days. They all just went through the same 21 mile gauntlet, and we let off some steam and tell bad jokes. Pretty Boy saw a bear near Gorham so we take advantage of the bear box to store our food bags. I saw moose scat several times on the trail today, something new to this region. It's like deer droppings but larger. It looks like a pile of acorns. I'm told moose use the trails to get around at night. I'm looking forward to seeing one - from a distance!Tomorrow: Mahoosuc Notch, the most fun/difficult mile of the AT, and on to Andover.