Date: 2005-08-31
From: Harpers Ferry, WV

To: Blackburn Trail Center
Miles today: 12.0
Weather: broken clouds

Yesterday involved 2 planes, 3 trains, & 2 hotel rooms, but I am back on the trail following an overnight in Harper's Ferry. I guess I had my first little bit of trail magic when a guy gave me his Metro fare card that still had $.40 on it! It cost me all of a dollar to get from Reagan National to Union Station, where I hopped an Amtrak that got me into Harper's Ferry in time to purchase fuel before the outfitter closed. That saved me a lot of time this morning since it would have been quite a hike back downtown & up to the Appalachian Conservancy Headquarters. Harpers Ferry is very hilly! I stayed at Hilltop House, a very old & definitely shabby-chic hotel. They have "special" hiker rooms that are not special in the way you might think. My first room was hot, had green astroturf carpet, and a very saggy bed. I could deal with everything but the heat. When I came back up after dinner & the room had still not cooled down, I requested a room change. My new room was much better & very cold. The AC was either on or off--plugged in, or not plugged in! I tried to sleep, but my nervous stomach kept me awake much of the night. This morning, I had breakfast at 7:30. It was perfect, yummy, & cheap! $2.39 including tax & tip. I hiked up the road to the ATC Headquarters & waited about 10 minutes for them to open at 9:00. As soon as I entered, I had a total meltdown. I couldn't talk without tearing up! Not sure why, but I was just on such an emotional edge. I think part of it is being homesick & not knowing when I'll see Bob next. I also think that it just reminded how badly I had wanted to thru-hike the trail, & now I am officially registered as a section-hiker. After the volunteers provided me with kleenex & I got myself together, I had my picture taken, labeled, & placed in the section-hiker section of the big notebook that they keep with all of the long-distance hikers who come through. I hiked up & down the sidetrail to the AT, passing through the campus of Storer College, a historical Negro college. There were interesting signs and pictures about the history. I read some, but not all. I was on the AT shortly after 9:30. The weather was very hot in the morning, but as the day wore on, the weather began to look a little threatening. The trail was very rocky in parts (a definite reminder of Maine), but also had some easier and smooth places. There were some challenging climbs, but again, nothing like Maine. I saw an interesting box turtle that had a lot of orange on it. It was very cooperative to being photographed so that Bob can identify it. I stopped at a shelter around 3:00 & considered staying, but decided it might be nice to get to the Blackburn Trail Center where they have a solar shower & I could sleep inside in a bunkroom for free. I am so glad that I made that decision. I arrived at the Trail Center a little before 5:00. I was immediately offered a cold soda, and then was asked, "When would you like dinner?" Sarah, the caretaker, said that I could sleep on the screen porch instead of the bunkhouse if I preferred, which I did. I was the only hiker there. I enjoyed the shower, rinsed my clothes, & had a great dinner of spaghetti, carrots, green beans, & a brownie. There is a lovely view of distant Washington, D.C. and I had today's Washington Post to read. All of this was free, although I did leave a donation for the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. I was settled & comfortable in my sleeping bag & listening to the crickets by 9:00, but it was hours before I fell asleep. Same nervous stomach keeping me awake as last night.