Date: 2004-08-18
From: Antlers Campsite

To: Crescent Pond
Miles today: 17.6

Today was one of those days that turns a week of rain and pain into "what I'd rather be doing" when the hike is over. I slept under the stars last night, and my bug bivy--which I moved out of the way around midnight--noseeums and mosquitos don't like the chill of deep night. This morning I walked fifteen feet to the lake and let dawn unfold. A couple hours later we hiked out under a clear sky.We hiked to Mahar Tote Road anticipating a boat ride to Whitehouse Landing and wary of the hospitality--the grapevine praised the one pound burgers but left a bad taste in your mouth with stories of being nickel-and-dimed to death. At the crossing we were mistaken by Deja for a moose. She was hiking in front of Sparrow and Daybreak (he plans to summit on the 21st so we may see him again). They were returning from an overnight stay at the Landing.We hiked over a mile of blue-blazed trail to a boat dock and rang the doorbell by blowing an air horn--we could see the camp across the lake, so sat out on the sunny dock, assuming they could see us. Fifteen minutes later the owner and his son motored over to pick us up; the boat ride was joy after hiking so many weeks. The owner and his wife happily invited us--minus the hiking shoes--into the lakeside lodge. We resupplied from a cabinet-sized store. I ate a $1 banana, we split a $1.50 brownie (six inches on a side), and we ordered $8 cheeseburgers. I've had ribs that made mess less. On the first bite grease and ketchup splattered onto a tattered "Nation" that I was reading. That burger was huge. Afterwards I grazed on sliced cucumber (good with salt) and pickled cucumber (good plain).Somewhere towards the end of my burger the air horn went off--it was the Rat Pack, in for lunch. We had met earlier at a shelter this morning. They were friendly enough, but we didn't socialize much. Instead we sat on the front porch, our legs in the sun, slowly swinging and looking out over the lake. Land is cheap here, and what do you need besides a cabin with a wood stove to be happy. Perhaps the internet, we decided. After maybe half an hour, we wandered back in to wolf down a pint of Ben & Jerrys Chocolate Chip Cookie. We could have split another without grouble, but they were expensive, and when the airhorn went of again, we decided to settle our tab and get back to hiking. My credit card covered the $70 we spent, including a $5 credit card use fee. We pulled on our shoes, picked up out gear, and headed to the dock. We got a ride not just across the lake, but one mile down and very close to the AT. We had beeen expecting only a ride across the lake, and this bonus put us in hight spirits--yet again we see that you get what you pay for.Back on the trail, we took our time to Wadleigh Stream lean-to--at Nahmakanta Lake we found a large beach and cool water too inviting to pass. The Rat Pack caught up with us drying in the sun, but dark clouds were rolling in, and we narrowly avoided getting dumped on over the last two miles to the lean-to. Ten or eleven hiker were crowded under the roof--good company during the rain, but Adam decided to keep hiking. It was six when we left, leaving a single section hiking couple with the shelter to themselves.We climbed Nasuntabunt Mountain and sat on a rock outcropping--across from Crescent Lake Katadihn rose into a hazy cloud. Over our left shoulders the sun was setting and we would see it glowing pink as we climbed down to find a tent site--I had talked him into it and in the growing dark he was unhappily looking for tent spots. Down by Crescent Lake in a pine stand we finally stopped. I've got my tent set up on a level bed of pine needles. The bugs aren't bad here--I think this place is perfect.Tomorrow we had planned on hiking 19.6 to Hurd Brook lean-to. Our extra hiking has nocked off four of those miles--hunger may drive us three and a half miles past Hurd Brook to the Abol Bridge camp store. With luck and cooperating weather I might catch Katahdin in a sunset or sunrise from Abol Bridge.