morvasaaty/AppalachianTrail-LD-Hikers-Blogs-and-Weather-20-years huggingface dataset:
Date: 2004-04-04
From: Double Springs Gap Shelter

To: Gatlingburg, Tennessee
Miles today: 10.8

Today has been one of the most beautiful days on the trail. The sun has shone constantly, perfect blue sky, lots of snow. Icy, Icy, Icy.I passed over Clingman's Dome. It's the highest point on the AT, 6,643 feet, that's 2000 feet higher than Ben Nevis, though I started the day from pretty highup too, so the climb wasn't so great. On the summit is a peculiar observation deck that looks like a concrete UFO with wheelchair access. Today it was fearsomely windy but with perfect views as far north as the Blue Ridge Parkway and back to Fontana. I didn't stay up there too long, my hat blew off ticw today.It was colder than yesterday, the thaw seems to have been put on hold, good in some ways as the slush is limited and the feet stay dryer, but tracherous in parts as the snow turns to ice.I sold out and went in to Gatlingburg, I have been saying all week that I won't, but I couldn't think of any decent reasons why not as we emerged on to Newfound Gap, a ferocious wind blowing. Selma, who I have been travelling with te past few days had run out of food and I was pretty low myself with the short miles lost to snow, so it seemed a good port in a storm.Gatlingburg very tacky. We are staying in a very cheap hotel at $29.000 for the room, even if the shower doesn't work and we had totake baths.
Date: 2004-04-05
From: Gatlingburg, Tennessee

To: Pecks Corner Shelter
Miles today: 10.4
Weather: clear sky

We hit all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet at Shoneys round 9.00AM. It was the best buffet I've been to in the past 3 weeks and if you've been following this journal you'll know I've been to a few. Afterwards I located the library even though the tourist information office said there was no internet access. This appeared to be borne out by the big sign on the door saying NO EMAIL. I went in to ask anyway ad it turns out the senior librarian is a big trailjournals fan and makes an exception for thru-hikers. Sometimes being dirty and smelly opens doors! We got some food and went to the liqor ststore and purcased a haf bottle of Dickel's sour mash Tennessee whiskey. It's really good and I can't think why I never got some before, maybe because I never knew it came in handy plastic bottles.We got a ride back to NewFound Gap but it ws 2.30 before we hit the trail. At the car park Selma and Z were bombarded by questions from tourists, it was like being interviewed. The most common question was - what kind of jobs do you have that you can just take 6 months off?It was tough getting 10 miles on the trail and it was very late when we reached the shelter. It was a beautiful hike, perhaps the best day yet, the scenery beoming more alpine with rock faces and steep drop-offs. These ledge were dicey in places and for the first time there were several points where, if you fell, well... This wasn't made any easier by the fact we were hiking on ice and progress was slow. Selma gets a touch of vertigo and I walked behind him to give a little support.My camera decided to vcome back to life again today after freezing up in the past few days. It disapointed me not to br able to capture the views from Clingmans and the new snow. But I tried to make up for it this afternoon, the snow providing a different perspective on everything.
Date: 2004-04-06
From: Pecks Corner Shelter

To: Cosby Knob Shelter
Miles today: 12.9
Weather: broken clouds

After arriving at the shelter late last night I had every intention of getting up in good time this morning and getting an early start. It never happened. In some ways it doesn't really matter in the Smokies as you have to stay at the shelters and jumping 2 rather than one makes for a 20+ mile day. It worked out quite well, we left at 10.30 and got in to Cosby Knob at 6.00 PM.Today has been the day we finally beat the snow. It is almost clear here, there are even people tenting. For the sake of completeness, I am in the packed shelter, one more cramped and snuggly night will seal my Smokies experience - I leave the park tomorrow and will be able to camp anywhere and climb into my tiny, private tent once again. That'll be good.Today's walk was still icy, but progressively less so, patches of green were poking out all over and it was warm, my t-shirt saw the light of day for the first time in ages. It felt good, Spring had come to the mountains.There was more fine ridge walking through fragrant, treacly pines and corridors of 'christmas trees'. I'm sure I'll miss the high altitude variety of the Smokies and the clean beauty of the snow filled forest.
Date: 2004-04-07
From: Cosby Knob Shelter

To: Painters Branch Shelter
Miles today: 12.7

So I finally left the Smokies and the snow behind.Today's massive thrill was visiting Mountain Momma's Country Store (no dogs, no profanity) for the world famous cheeseburger and fries. Mountain Momma's is not in some far-flung town but only 1.5 miles off the trail, easy walking distance. It was an all-American experience, basically just a greasy diner located within a convenience store, what made it special was the virtual 'shrine' to Dolly Parton and other remrkable Southern memorabilia and family mementos festooning the walls. Unusually for the USA these days, smoking was almost compulsory.It has been a great day, real hot sat out on Mountain Momma's porch fixing my pack and mostly low level walking as we descended from the high mountains out of the park. I found where all the birds and animals had been hiding spotting squirrels, chipmunks, many vivid butterflies mice and grouse. The trees were full of birdsong and purple blossom and flowers bloomed besides the trail. Tonight I am camped with Selma at a beautiful fork in the creek named Painters Branch. There are only 2 tent spots between the narrow channels and we have them both. The water burbles right by me on both sides, loud in my ears.
Date: 2004-04-08
From: Painters Branch 

To: Walnut Mountain Shelter
Miles today: 18.0
Weather: light rain

Got a 9.45 start, not the crack of dawn I'd hoped for, but 15 minutes better than normal nonetheless.A personal best on mileage, I really wanted to push things on today and put on the kind of pace that will be necessary if I ever hope to getto Maine within 6 months. I picked the day for it, with some sections skirting the sides of high river valleys on mostly level ground. The exception was the climb to the summit of Max Patch, a very unlikely name for a mountain, I know. There were panormic views from the summit. It was grassy on top and in the immediate area. I realised that you don't see a lot of grass on the AT normally and suddenly things looked very English, helped by the overcast skies. There was even a few spots of rain to complete the picture, but it fizzlrd out soon enough.I mostly walked alone today and there were few hikers on the trail, funny how they seem to disperse and then coalese in certain places. It felt good to be out here alone.But there were still about 10 of us dotted around the shelter. The register contained a description of me from Alabama as 'Judas of Gatlingburg' for disappearing off to the said metropolis without letting him know. I had thought Marzipan was making it up when she said he was mmiffed about this. Lucky I brought him a mini bottle of whiskey backfrom town. The register indicated he was here earlier today, so I should catch him in Hot Springs tomorrow.
Date: 2004-04-09
From: Walnut Mountain Shelter

To: Hot Springs, North Carolina
Miles today: 13.1
Weather: clear sky

The long, slow descent into Hot Springs. It was a very warm day, getting more so as I approached town deep in the valley. People had that demob happy air they take on when a section is nearly over. Why? So they can have a cheeseburger; so they can have a pint? Well yes, but you have to relish these small pleasures where you can find them on the AT. Personally, I feel the key is breaking things down to their smaller components, drawing what you can from the steps along the way. Maine is a long way off, to obsess on Katahdin is to invite failure. I reckon. Homilies over.As Selma and I wandered into town we spotted Alabama walking down the street towards us, we waved, he waved back and then ducked in to a side street as if to avoid us. Did he really think St Rick had become the Judas of Gatlingburg as mentioned in the registers? Was he really pissed? No, just short-sighted, when we caught him up he'd just raided a hiker box in one of the hostels and was offering round marsh mallows. We walked back to the camp ground.There was quite a little community assembled there. It was good to catch up, Slainte already had a case of beers on the go, there was a nice atmosphere. I did some washing, had a couple of King Cones and checked out the outfitter where there was free email for 20 mins, naturally I uploaded some trail journals. Then I bought a case of Sam Adams.A shower felt good, then on to Paddlers Pub for dinner and pitchers. They did a good buffalo burger and the pale ale was yet another example of the happy state of America's micro-breweries. Later, it became apparent that the guy in the outfitter earlier had been none other than the legendary Baltimore Jack, veteran of numerous thru-hikes. I'd had an idea it might be him earlier, it was the talk of Hanover that gave it away - that and the 'Bryson is a Candyass' T-shirt. We called him over to our table and he had plenty of good advice and patiently answered questions. I had hoped to meet Jack, it was good to do so.By the way, the trail name St Rick seems to have stuck, so I am going to alter the listing on trail journals. I hope that the people who have been kind enough to follow these meandering missives will find them OK in future.
Date: 2004-04-10
From: Hot Springs, North Carolina

To: View Entry
Miles today: 0.0

I took a zero today in Hot Springs. I went to breakfast with Bama, Selma, Ad Rock and Tom. We went to the Smoky Mountain Diner which was good, though not the mountainous affair I've become used to with all these buffets.The rest of the day was slow, excellent for relaxing the muscles and that's all you really require from a zero day. I did some shopping at the store and the outfitter. This one is probably the best along the way so far and the food selection is good. It didn't take long to get re-supplied.In the afternoon Selma bought a new tarp to replace his enormous purple tent that weighs a ton. We sat around drinking Bass and eating Ben and Jerrys whilst offering him useful pointers as to the best way to configure it. We spent a happy couple of hours that way, by the end the tarp was looking fine.In the evening I went back to the diner with Selma, Ad Rock and Slainte. I had pretty good fried chicken, then I went on to the pub with Slainte. There was quite a crowd in, seems like Moonstone, Littlebit, Adventure and Beast hit town. I joined a table with Baltimore Jack, Marzipan and Syracuse, who I hadn't met before. There was a bluegrass band playing, they dedicated a song, 'Rocky Top', to the thru-hikers and there was an outbreak of spontaneous dancing. There was a great vibe. Many of us were on 'Rocky Top' a real place, on the worst of the icy days in the Smokies, it was kinda triumphant to commemorate it in a cheery song. I expect it was the sort of gig that used to go down at the Prancing Pony.Tomorrow, back on the trail for the long march to Erwin.
Date: 2004-04-11
To: Allen Gap
Miles today: 14.7
Weather: moderate rain

Slainte and Ad Rock, got an early start on the trail this morning whilst Selma and me went to breakfast at the Diner. On the way, we met Phil Mill and Gaia, it was good to see them, they were both in good spirits and were talking about enjoying the snowy Smokies, a opinion that isn't shared by all, believe me. They came to breakfast with us, I had the skillet fry up which was great, a kind of deluxe bubble and squeak containing green peppers, sausage and practically everything else you could think of.There was a bit more fiddling about in the outfitter buying fuel whilst Selma sent his tent home. It was 12.30 before I hit the road.It rained. For only the second time this trip, not torrentially, but throughout the afternoon and evening. The forest took on a different character seeming to green up immediately. There were corridors of rhododendrons, some dark with secret curves. Later a thick mist descended and the forest became a spooky place.   I thought I saw something in the undergrowth a couple of times, something big, possibly a bear, but it was nothing. Still it rained.We passed Spring Mountain Shelter, a tiny place full up already with refugees from the wet. Marzipan arrived and decided to take up a dry spot on the floor, which didn't look much fun, so Selma and I pressed on 'til 7.30. I was aware we are novice tarpists so was surprised when we got a perfect pitch on the thing in about 5 minutes flat. Beginners luck. The only problem being the thing is so damned big I had trouble sneaking my litle tent round the side.Selma went for a look around the corner and found that Ad Rock and Slainte were nearby. I went down to say hi, it was barely drizzling by this time, they are talking about trying for the shelter at 18 miles tomorrow. It sounds like a good plan.
Date: 2004-04-12
From: Allen Gap

To: Flint Mountain Shelter
Miles today: 17.6
Weather: moderate rain

Today I passed the 300 mile mark, something else to chalk up along the way. This is now easily my second longest hike, though there's some time to go before I get up to 600 miles of hiking which will take me by the Bibbulmun Track.Selma did well in his new tarp last night staying dry despite the drizzle. It's made me more likely to go down the tarp route if and when I swap out for summer gear.It rained pretty much all day but not so much that the hiking was particularly nasty nor too muddy. It was very windy about midday, I've had my fleece on under my rain jacket all the time but things just seemed ok, very like hiking in the UK in fact.It was misty again and there was no visibility from the viewpoints. One area, the Shelton Graves, a civil war site, was especially eerie in the swirling fog, strange, twisted old trees just visible in the gloom.Selma didn't make it to this shelter tonight, it was just Ad Rock, Slainte, Stumblebum and Dirtnap, who has a couple of dogs. A pretty small crowd at a shelter but I tented all the same. With luck Selma can catch up tomorrow. I might slow down at some point to faclitate entering Erwin early, so maximsing town time but not taking 2 nights. Who knows?
Date: 2004-04-13
From: Flint Mountain Shelter

To: Bald Mountain Shelter
Miles today: 18.8
Weather: overcast clouds

Today has been another day of rain...and more.In the afternoon I found myself hiking alone. Slainte, Selma, Ad Rock and me are almost in a vacuum of hikers at the moment, although I know there are groups of people behind and up front, but it's nice to lose the crowds.I found myself in a mysterious cloud forest, not really misty or foggy but walking in a great big cloud and you never know what kind of shit you're gonna find in one of those things. It was getting dark and the the rain and hail from earlier had settled down into a fine mist, wind blown cloud blowing through the murky forest. There were lots of twisted dead trees emerging from the gloom like denizens of Ent Wood. I clmbed higher and higher until coming out on the bald summit, by now it was almost dark and hard to locate the white markers across the grassy, muddy summit which was much more expansive than I'd imagined and very cold and windy.I came in to the shelter right on 8.30 and the point of darkness. Stumblebum, The Roman Noodles and Dirtnap were in. My fingers were really cold, I was a bit shaken and it was hard to cook.During the night it turned colder and colder and then began to snow. I was wearing my fleece and down jacket inside the bag and was only just staying warm.
Date: 2004-04-14
From: Bald Mountain Shelter

To: Erwin
Miles today: 16.9
Weather: light rain

Last night was the coldest so far. I had hoped to have left the snow behind in the Smokies but there was at least 6 inches on the ground this morning. More had blown in to the shelter and the table and floor were white. All the Nalgenes had frozen solid. Last night I was wearing the down jacket, fleece and virtually everything else I own. I stayed warm(ish) just.I discerned a marked reluctance to leave the shelter amongst its chilly occupants - I cooked breakfast from the relative cosiness of my sleepingbag. I was still there at 10.30 when Ad Rock showed up having had a hell of a time crossing the summit of Big Bald this morning in the drivng wind, drifting snow and general white out conditions. I was glad not to have tented last night as he woke up with a foot of snow piled up around the canvas and had to break out under the rain fly as the zipper was frozen solid.Ad Rock and I walked in to Erwin from Big Bald. It started out bitter as it was still snowing and windy in places, but became more pleasant lower down. But it was also starkly beautiful, rhododendon branches icy white like long, curly fingers. On some sides of the mountain there was no wind only the sucked out silence of snow in hidden valleys.We went really fast in to town and got a ride to the Best Southern Motel with no trouble at all. In Erwin there was no trace of bad weather and the town was enjoying the last rays of sun. It felt good to get a bed.
Date: 2004-04-15
From: Erwin

To: View Entry
Miles today: 0.0

A zero day. Erwin is kind of a spread out place and the Great Southern Motel is not best situated to appreciate all its amenities, but it has the things a hiker needs and a kind of sleepy charm in its own way.Ad Rock and me went in to town for lunch at Erwin Burrito, a funky kind of a place and my first burrito for quite a while as they are not thick on the ground in England where there's practically no Mexican fast food. It was very good but we also went to Sonic for ice-cream deserts.I went to the library to use the PCs and spent a lot of time reading other people's trail journals rather than simply fixing my own.I was saddened to read that Grace is off the trail for now. I saw her in Fontana and had no idea she wouldn't be going much further. I know her journal is controversial, but it's also very funny and well written which goes a long way in my book. She also says nice things about me and even has a big pic of yours truly on page 897, so that's fine by me.We went to Miss Janet's place where I had sent a box. We met up with Paddler who Ad Rock used to hike with. He is unfortunately off the trail with injuries. I hope he's fit to hike again soon. We also caught up with the Roman Noodles and Stumblebum who were with us that very cold Tuesday night on Big Bald Mountain.We went back to the motel and hung out for a few hours before heading out on a mini-hike to the other side of town and burgers at Hardees. Back on the trail tomorrow.
Date: 2004-04-16
To: Cherry Gap Shelter
Miles today: 16.3
Weather: overcast clouds

I had breakfast at the convenience store then began walking into town carrying my bounce box. Ad Rock waited on at the Motel for Miss Janet to show up with a shuttle back to the trail. In no time at all, someone slowed down and asked me if I was bound for the PO and gave me a ride. I booted the box on to Harpers Ferry, about 600 miles or so up the trail. Actually, I really shouldn't have bothered opening it as I only removed some glucosamine and I could have bought some more at the chemist and been on my way first thing this morning. I had my chore done in no time at all so decided to squander the advantage by going back to the library. After this, I hit the drive-in Sonic and had one of those Oreo flavoured swirl things. I began walking up the highway and yet another car stopped to give me a ride. People really are so obliging here in the South, for both these rides I hadn't even got around to sticking my thumb out. Would it happen in the UK? Not likely! I'd have probably walked all the way back.I got on the trail at 12.15. Not bad. The day started really well with lots of fast running, clear streams pouring through surprisingly lush woody glades. The day was warm and sunny and the creeks looked a little like those in the Queensland rainforests.It got tougher as the day went on and I arrived at camp at around 7.20. Slainte and Selma were there. Ad Rock and I had not seen them for the whole time we were in Erwin, I feared them still frozen on Bald Mountain but they were in fine spirits, Selma with horrendous stories of the joys of snow tarping. Happy and Stumblebum were also in camp.It felt good to be back on the trail for this long section to Damascus.
Date: 2004-04-17
From: Cherry Gap Shelter

To: Roan Mountain Shelter
Miles today: 15.2
Weather: clear sky

I was the last to leave the shelter today. It's very still when everyone goes and I have a sense of what it's like during the long winter months when the structure stands empty and alone. Very quiet and almost a feeling it's aware of itself, just waiting.A hard day of hiking in which energy was hard to summon. It was a beautiful day and hot. I've lost my sun hat so the sweat was always in my eyes, because I slathered on the SPF to compensate for the hat my eyes were stinging.Roan Mountain was a bit of a killer at over 6000 feet. In fact it's the 3rd highest point on the AT and on it's summit rests the highest shelter. It obviously gets pretty cold up here as the shelter has 4 walls and doors, unheard of on the AT and practically the height of sophistication. Still, only Stumblebum has chosen to sleep there, Slainte, Selma, Adrock, Happy, Pleides and 2 others are tenting.Things are a little different up here, the summit is covered in pines and 'christmas trees'. There was the tangy smell of resin on a hot day on the way up as well as tiny, residual patches of snow. It's green and beautiful, especially as the sun filters down through the pine needles. Moreover, it's not even that cold here tonight.
Date: 2004-04-18
From: Roan Mountain Shelter

To: Doll Flats Camp
Miles today: 12.2

Today has been probably the most beautiful day of views we've had so far. The hike has taken in a series of balds that have stretched in a line from Roan Mountain. Not only the summits were treeless, the grassy terrain stretched down the hillsides opening up the panoramas for miles around. It has been hot again - sky blue sky! However, I managed to wander off the trail today, more seriously than before and for the first time in ages. It happened when I accidentally took the side trail to   Grassy Ridge . I saw Slainte sitting there and imagined that was the AT, so continued on straight ahead rather than heading back to the real trail. It took me into some rhodedendron thickets and some rocky ground to the West. I decided to take lunch thee on a convenient flat rock. It was gone 2.00 when I finally made it back to the trail.I called in at Overmountain Shelter which Baltimore Jack had described as the most beautifuly situated on the trail. It certainly was special a the end of a low, hidden, grassy valley. It reminded me a little of Wales. In fact the grassy terrain has been remeniscent of the UK all day. American pastoral.The final hike over Little Hump Mountain and Hump Mountain were spectacular. At this stage the Roan Highands seemed wide open. Big views at 360 degrees. The Britishness of the suroundings seeming to give way to a US sense of scale. The sun began to set and individual patches of forest were illuminated with shafts of sunlight. It was a fine, hard walk to Doll Flats. I had intended to reach Apple Spring Shelter tonight but didn't make it. Slainte was already in camp.