Date: 2016-04-23
From: Winding Stairs Gap Trailhead

To: Fontana Hilton
Miles today: 160.1

It has been over two weeks since my last posting on April 14th from Franklin N.C. I am now in Hot Springs and completed the Great Smokey Mountains National Park. April 15 (Friday) ¢ Winding Stairs to Wayah Gap Shelter ¢ 11.0 milesBegan the hike out of Franklin headed to Wesser N.C. On the shuttle with Commissioner, Stink Mouse, McGruber and Sweet Feet. They told me that Percy left the trail today as his blister on his Achilles Heel was so bad that it was infecting his tendon. His father is a doctor and after a conversation he decided to go home back to Ohio for several weeks to let heal and hopeful restart his trip afterwards. Percy was a good and quiet individual and a good hiker. In his mid twenties and strong it was a reminder that injury can end any of our trips. A sunny day ahead and off we went. It turns out this portion of the trail is brutally hard with non stop ups and downs mostly over large bolder, tree roots, etc. It seemed I spent more time stepping up and down rather than hiking and mike knees and quads are screaming back at me. I felt like I did a million squats. Several parts were so steep and requiring a large step that I had to take my back pack off to keep balance and also hold Riley as he scrambled down rock faces.By evening all I could think of is doing nothing but sit. We connected with two other hikers, DQ and The Gringo Bandito. Both in their mid twenties, and brother sister, this is his graduation gift to her as she has always wanted to hike the Appalachian Trail. McGruber started a campfire. Ask Jeeves needed to get to Wesser to get money wired from his sister. I sense by his gear, etc he is not really a through hiker but homeless. He indicated he and his father got into a brawl and was thrown out of the house.As sunset approached you could feel the air chilling knowing we are in for another cold night. Riley and I crawled into the tent which did a great job of retaining heat. When I got up in the middle of the night to pee there was a marked difference between inside and outside the tent. Good Job Big Agnes.April 16 (Saturday) ¢ Wahah Shelter to Wesser Bald ¢ 10.6 milesToday started much like all other mornings. Riley and I were off around 8:30 for what the chart showed would be yet another brutal day of ups and downs. Around noon we crossed a USFS road and to our surprise there were the trail angles all set up. Canopy tents, campfire, chairs, etc. The team were members of the Burning Town Gap 1st Baptist Church. They had sausage gravy and biscuits, bacon, hamburgers, treats and more. They fed Riley and I all we wanted and refused to take a penny. I reflected on my growing up in a Catholic School and attending others throughout my life. At my school we never had a gym or organized sports. Finally the priest promised to build one and used that reason every Sunday to get more donations. After two years the so called gym was completed but when it opened, the back was butted up against the back of the alter area with a removable wall that allowed you to see directly into the church. Yes there was a gym floor with markings, etc but it was never used as such, instead church pews added to allow more people to attend church and of course get more donations. The pastor always had a brand new Cadillac every year but never a gym for the students. I remember when I got an F on my science project when I dissected a frog in support of Evolution. No surprise looking back but I remember coming to my class to ream my out in front of the class for such blasphemy. My sister wrote a nasty letter to the church ¢ without signature of course ¢ and at the next Sunday church read that letter in from of the entire congregation. He was livid that anyone should be so disrespectful and a sinner believing in evolution. That was the beginning of the end of my belief in organized religion as I had learned. Over the years I saw preachers with Rolex watches and fancy cars always asking for more money. I agreed to attend church with my ex-wife and simply saw the same. In this case the preacher has now sent around the collection baskets three times while he preached. He told us that a woman in her 70¢s had fallen and broke her hip. Instead of suggesting anyone should help he asked the ¢Prayer Army¢ to say a prayer for her while again sending around the baskets for the fourth time. Everyone was happy to raise $100 bills high into the air so everyone could see what good Christians they were, yet when I stated loudly why is no one offering to help this woman I got a quick rebuke from my wife and the people around. I am sure they went home in their Mercedes for a Sunday family dinner knowing they had looked good for everyone. My loss in religion continued seeing such fraud and fake in people. They simply were not good people that hid behind religion.Yet here we were high in the North Carolina mountains. These were not just good people, they were sincere, friendly and for the first time in my life represented what I was taught in school. They even refused to take money from me to help offset what had to be a huge expense to help out all these hikes. I knew that they understood that most of the hikers were kids, many lost or no place to call home and these people bent over backwards to help those in need.For the first time I felt that religion is good, but only if built around people that are good. Fakes and Con Artist are everywhere and religion is a great hiding place for those. But not this day or this group. They represented everything I always believed was what made up good people. Honesty, honor, hardworking and self sufficient all while to help those that really needed help. Not one was wearing a fancy watch or clothes. Most in jeans and sun dressed with that weather worn look of a good life and a great smile somewhere covered by years of experience and aging.As we talked around the campfire. Sweetfeet stated that her hiking partner had abandoned her. They were both around 17¢¦this was the same kid in Suches yelling at here because he refused to pay five dollars to a shuttle drive to take her to Neel Gap Outfitters to get new shoes. When we met her, her feet were covered in bandages and blisters. He stated that he would not give one penny to a panhandler for gas. Of course a huge yelling match arose outside the store that everyone could hear. In the end the shuttle driver felt so bad for her to took her for free. Now this idiot apparently not only left her by running ahead to get a few days away, but also took all of the food so she was grateful for the Trail Angels. They both live in the same own and she called her dad to tell the story. I can only assume that when that boy returns home, dad and him might be having a man to man conversations.We also met Special K. a fourteen year old girl who is attempting to be the youngest female to hike the entire trail alone. She was from Kearny Nebraska, very mature and dedicated. Her pack weighed more than mine and she was around 90 pounds. We all laughed when she told us that her school had worked out everything to she could do this trip other than her P.E. teacher that would not sign off requiring her to take that class again next year. REALLY ¢ she is hiking 2184 miles with 40 pounds on her pack.Back to the trail and the non stop brutal ups and downs. I am beginning to really hate the N.C. mountains and Benton and MaKay who set the original trail. If there was any peak no matter how small we always had to top it. Our path was a zig zag back and forth simply to not forget any peak there was. WE climbed to around 5500 feet at Rocky Bald where a old stone fire tower stood overlooking the valley below. To my surprise there was still Franklin N.C. about five miles away ¢ what¢¦.two days hiking and still just miles from where we took a down day.April 17 (Sunday) ¢ Wesser Bald to the town of Wesser and the Nantahala Outdoor Center ¢ 5.7 milesWoke up to another cold night with Riley snuggling his nose into my sleeping bag for warmth. A brutal 2500 descent into Wesser. We all gathered at the little grocery store for food and water. A man riding his motorcycle stopped and talked to us. This area was beautiful with a river in from that was set up for the previous world championship competition kayak course and the NOC had multiple buildings housing outdoor classes, hostel beds for hikers and a full blown outdoor fitter to resupply. He bought us all cold beers to celebrate our trip so far. All of a sudden a woman who resembled Special K along with two girls crosses the bridge walking towards us. We knew instantly this was Special K¢s mom and sister who drove from Nebraska to see her. You could tell this was one happy reunion.Commissioner and I decided to get a hostel room that had two beds while the rest decided on the campground. As evening approached we sat by the river and admiring the views. My nightfall, the others built a huge campfire and Cool Hand and Cherokee arrived in time to begin playing on their ukes. The group broke out into singing to include both the National Anthem and God Bless America. When the fire died so did everyone and we retired for the night. When Commissioner came back to the bunk house I had already crawled into my bag on the bunk. He turned on the light and without saying anything handed me a beer, sat down on my bed and put one of his IPOD earplugs into my ear while the other in his and began to play music. I sensed Commission may have had one or two more beers than he intended. He began to pretend he was playing the drums while we listened. Then he put the music on speaker to a mountain country style song with a female singer that sang a soft and beautiful song about taking her children down to the creek to wash them up before bedtime. We both were long asleep before the song ever finished but a prefect way to end a day in mountains.April 18 (Monday) ¢ NOC to Sassafrass Gap ¢ 6.9 milesUp early to a sunny day. Stopped at the restaurant for breakfast and had them also cook up a three egg and cheese omelet for Riley. When I told them who it is for, I think they decided three eggs were not enough as it looked more like a ten egg omelet which Riley loved.Today would be nearly 5000 feet of climbing and hot. I decided that I am going to petition the governor of North Carolina to change the phrase on their licsense plate from ¢First in Flight¢ to ¢Home of the hikers¢ big can of Whoop Ass¢. This is getting old and exhausting.As I left NOC I reflected how the Appalachian Trail really follows the entire history of the United States from the north where American begin and the revolutionary war to the deep south with its history of plantations, slavery and southern hospitality. All between were locations like Blood Mountain serving as a reminder of the Civil War. As I continued to hike the dogwoods were blossoming everywhere and spring was in early bloom. When I connected with Commissioner again I asked where the others were. He indicated they decided they did not want to hike the Great Smokey Mountains National Park and were hitch hiking to Hot Springs. What started off as eight of us on the first night meeting were now down to just Commissioner and I. We had reached the statistical number of hikers that begin that actually finished. Another brutal day ended with Riley and I crashing in the tent. He fell asleep the second we stopped and I removed his harness. I realized that he was not getting enough food and could see more of his ribs now. I was feeding him twice what I gave at home but he always wanted more so I gave it to him. Now I realized that I did not have enough food for him to get to Fontana. When I crawled into the tent he rolled over and simply licked me then fell back to sleep. After all I had put him through he still loved me with that big wet and nasty kiss but I did not care¢¦ I simply pulled him next to me and rubbed his head until I fell asleep too.April 19 (Tuesday) ¢ Sassafrass Gap to Browns Fork ¢ 9.7 milesSlept well and awoke to Riley hungry. I decided to give him all of the rest of his food knowing he would be out and decided I would figure that out later. He wolfed down everything and still kept looking at me for more. Today was forecast to rain with yet another monster climb to Cheoh Bald. As we hiked I realize Riley was again losing his zest. Instead of running ahead of me, he just stayed behind at a slow pace. I several times over the last two days came across a hiker named Socks and her father who joined her at the NOC with the intent to stay with her through the Smokey Mountains. I could tell he was struggling with the harsh climbs as bad as I was and the day was also very hot. We chatted while we cursed the climbs. I was out of water an Sock indicated there was a stream about half mile ahead so I left them to get water. Riley by now is now hot, thirsty and hungry. We got to the water spot which was next to a road. A Trail Angel left fruit. I had to make a decision right there. Either got 4 more miles and camp out or hike into Fontana today and get food for Riley. Rood was the choice so I began down the road towards Fontana. I came to a cross road where I turned left with eight miles to go when a local stopped and offered me a ride into the resort. I accepted and we were both happy¢¦.but now I was about five miles short of hiking the trail.We approached the Fontana Hilton Shelter ¢ so named because is had hot showers, toilets and running water along the banks of Lake Fontana and a stunning view of the mountains. Again there were the Trail Angels. This time they were parents from Birmingham Alabama of another hiker and set up with hamburgers, hotdogs and home made chili. Riley ate four hot dogs while I scarfed down two huge plates of that chili along with three cans of orange soda. We then st up our tent along the shelter and met Rock Hobbit and Yonder, two 2015 hikers that were a wealth of great information. We talked about Trail Days in Damascus in mid May and convinced me that I must attend as it was part of the history and fun of the hike. It turns out this is the world¢s largest gathering of hikers and all of the vendors set up shop to include fixing and gear and helping hikers out. As we sat and talked a North Carolina air National Guard C-130 swooped down over the dam and the lake only about 200 feet off the water and disappeared around the mountain bends. It was a great sight to see.I headed for a hot shower, a real toilet with real toilet paper and hooked my phone into the solar charge set up at the shelter. Now this was living compared to the last two weeks as far as shelters were concerned. A huge area was set up for campfires so Riley and I joined in. There was about 40 hikers there that night, the most I have seen before. Everyone was preparing to enter the National Park that started just on the other side of the dam.April 20 (Wednesday) Fontana HiltonI awoke early and Riley and I headed for the Resort. There really is not a town there, just the resort much like the YMCA of the Rockies nestled into the Carolina mountains. I stopped at the little store and got Riley food. We headed over to the main building were the restaurant was. I leased Riley to the fence on a deck overlooking the resort while I went and got a breakfast called the Hillbilly Breakfast. Only nine bucks included two huge homemade biscuits covered in sausage gravy, three eggs on top and more sausage gravy ¢ WOW !!! We went back to the general store to resupply and to my surprise there ws Stink Mouse, MacGruber and Sweet Feet. We chatted and they told me that they first hitched into Asheville then to here and would be hitching on to Hot Springs.When we returned to the Fontana Hilton there again was more Trail Angels. This time it was huge. They had multiple shade tents set up, dozens of chairs for everyone to sit on and food, food, and food. Ice Cream, hamburgers, bacon (Which Riley gladly accepted from everyone) and so much more. Again another Baptist Church and yet again a refusal to take even one penny from me. Yes this are good people. Many of us simply sat all afternoon with them chatting, singing and of course eating. The got school children to build a little packages that had bandages, candy, hand wipes, etc in them and a note wishing us the best. I am sorry that I did not keep my note as now I wish I could have written them back for their care.As the afternoon was ending, Socks came in indicating her father was struggling and she had to leave him behind and was worried about him. I connected with him and understood what he was going through. So I and another hiker named Big Bird because she was very tall and wore a yellow rain suit when it rained decided to go back and find him and bring him food and water. Hey at least I felt like this would make up for that five miles I cheated on the day before. We hike for just over an hour when I found him. Other than tired, exhausted and thirsty he was still doing fine and was grateful for coming out for him. So instead of a rescue this turned into a morale builder with the three of us hiking back to the shelter area. Later that evening they approached me with dad holding a cold can of beer to thank me. He decided he had enough and his wife was driving out from Raleigh to pick him up. After he left, Socks indicated that dad insisted on joining her not knowing how difficult it was. I reminded her that dad¢s will always want to be their daughter¢s hero and will never admit they are weak. She laughed.Again another C-130 flew overhead but this time slower and higher in the twilight sky. Tonight was the full moon and also a holiday according to most hikers called Four Twenty Day in celebration of POT ¢ yes that plant most of us adults call marijuana. As the campfire started up you could smell the burning plant everywhere. Around the campfire we met a couple from Finland also hiking the trail. Many of us then walked to the dam to see the full moon shine down the entire length of the lake. What a view. Others scrambled down to the lake shore and went swimming.I tried to see if a text would go through to Marilee to tell her I missed her and loved her. To my pleasant surprise I got a reply with emoji smiles and kisses. As the night settled I heard for the first time in years a loon on the lake. It reminded me of growing up in Minnesota an going to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area and Voyageurs National Park on the Canadian border. I remembered Marilee and I took Rachel and Gabe there years ago to Veterans Lake where the loons were plentiful.April 21 (Thursday) ¢ Fontana Hilton to Great Smokey Mountains National Park ¢ 6.6 milesAwoke very early around 5 am. Still dark out but could see fireflies everywhere in the trees. It reminded me of growing up in Minnesota where in the summer you would catch them and put many into a jar to watch them all night. I was reminded to ensure I made air holes on top and to release them by morning.This was going to be my last day with Riley as he was to be picked up at ten and taking to the Standing Bear Hostel and Dog Kennel on the north side of the National Park. I sat on a bend overlooking the lake against the night sky with all of the stars shining. While holding Riley many reflections began to dance through my head¢¦¢¦. ON TO PART TWO!!!