Date: 2008-05-30
From: Bailey Gap Shelter

To: Sarver Hollow Shelter 
Miles today: 21.0
Weather: clear sky

What a day. I started out with big goals in mind: 27 miles. And only due to a series of unfortunate events, which I will disclose shortly, did that not happen. Our first stop of the day was Wind Rock which although not the most memorable stop on the trail for most hikers it was one of my favorites. It was the first time in a long while that the view was uninhibited by roads, towns, or really any other manmade structure. It was secluded and peaceful and it reminded me of the things that I really am searching for on the trail -- the places that others don't necessarily stop at or appreciate; the places that make my heart skip a beat. The trail was SO full of people at the beginning (Georgia/NC/TN) that it seemed most places, even if they were beautiful, weren't special -- the moments were short lived because someone would interupt or intrude. Now, the crowds are thinning out and my hike is becoming more personal. We crossed a lot of meadows and farmland today. We came across trail magic. I stopped at the haunted house (Kraut missed it!). And, we visited the Keefer Oak tree which is the second largest on the AT... I was still feeling really good at this point, only 3 or so miles shy of the next shelter. But, then I would lose faith in VA all over again. We hiked up -- and up -- and up. The climb was poorly graded (i.e. it went STRAIGHT up). Prior to this climb I felt like I was really getting my trail legs... that VA was really something... that 27 miles would be a heck of a day... that I was a "real" hiker. Well, after the climb I felt like I had never hiked a mile in my life... that someone had taken a stick and beaten me... that VA was a miserable state... "real" hiker status was unattainable. I guess what I am saying is that I was feeling so good before the climb and took it going full speed and it felt GREAT... for a minute or two. And out of sheer anger, frustration, and stubborness I did not let up for a second until I got to the top and then to the sign for the shelter. At this point, the story only gets worse. We had an additional 6 miles to the NEXT shelter (our ultimate goal). But, by the time I got to the entrance to this shelter I had run myself into the ground and drank all of my water -- about 3 miles back. The problem with this shelter: right back down the mountain I had just climbed -- on a side trail. And, because I needed water I really had no choice but to make the descent. Every step I took I became more frustrated with the circumstance. I was tired, thirsty, hungry, and now I was just erasing all of my progress with every step. At several points I almost stopped and turned around and decided that I would rather die of dehydration on the side of the trail. But, then I really couldn't give anyone that kind of satisfaction... still got to get to Maine and it wouldn't be possible if I was on the side of the trail. So, I made my way to the shelter. And, just so that I could feel that "just punched in the stomach can't breath feeling" -- the water source was terrible. Ugh. Let us just say that my grand ideas of a 27 mile day slowly drifted away every time I looked back up the mountain... I just couldn't bear to make that climb tonight. Plus, things were much more exciting at the shetler. It was a beautiful shelter and we had a full house. We had a resident black snake (black snakes are good!) and a nest of baby birds. These two things don't go well together. The black snake (a 5 footer) kept coming up into the shelter all evening to try to get to the chirping baby birds. It wasn't too big of a deal until after dark when Sauerkraut took a seat and almost sat on our friend. There were several hikers that were not too keen on the idea of waking up to a 5 foot sleeping bag guest and after trying to disuade the snake all evening from coming into the shelter one of our shelter mates finally put it to rest. Saving baby birds is all in a days work, I guess.