Date: 2013-04-06
From: Tri-Corner Knob Shelter

To: Standing Bear Hostel
Miles today: 18.4
Weather: clear sky

I woke up early and was raring to go. My hiking buddies were sleeping late and I knew this was the day I would leave them. Once they got up we gave hugs all around and agreed to try to meet in Hot Springs. The trail is still snowy and icy but the bright son energized me. I noticed Billy, the ridge runner, had yak tracks (ice cleats) on. I considered bringing mine and then decided it was too much weight and left them in Maine. I really wished I had them for the last week. Today's major climbs are Mt Guyot (6,330 ft) and then the trail drops down to 4,252 ft before climbing back up to Mt Cammerer at 5,000 ft. I caught up with Billy when he stopped to take off his yak tracks and eat a snack. We hiked together for a couple of miles and I peppered him with questions about what ridge runners do, qualifications, experiences, etc. He hiked 5 days a week, educates hikers, looks after the shelters, and helps with search and rescue. He also carries a limb saw to at least saw off the climbs of fallen trees so hikers can climb over the tree. I have read horror stories about hikers being harassed and/or fined for being in the Smokies too long. I have had nothing but good experiences and the the ridge runners have been nice and interesting people. Once I dropped below about 4,500 ft it felt like another world. The snow was suddenly gone and I was taking off layers. It felt so good!I stopped at Crosby Knob Shelter and took a break. Billy was there cleaning up and Great Legs stopped for a break as well. The three of us chatted for awhile. I watched a bird having the best time bathing in the creek and I knew I was out of the snow for good. I was feeling good so I decided to moving on to next shelter.   I met lots of day hikers in the afternoon. At first I couldn't figure out why and then I realized it was Saturday (it's easy to lose track on the trail) and a beautiful sonny day. I met 2 Marines from Camp Lejune, a father and teenage daughter from KY and friend from Washington, a couple from VA and their dog, and many more. The next shelter I came to was Davenport Gap Shelter. I had come around 14 miles and I considered staying here. There was no one else at the shelter (which was appealing to me) and it had a chain link fence covering the front to keep bears out. However, I was still feeling good and I knew I was only about 4 miles from a hostel. I decided to push on even though i knew it would mean night hiking for the first time. I exited the Smokies with a real sense of accomplishment and humbled by the difficult conditions. For the last mile I hiked beside a beautiful mountain stream which was much different than the higher elevations. After exciting the park I passed under Interstate 40 - a real contrast to what I had experienced recently. By now it was completely dark and I remembered reading that it was easy to lose the trail so I was carefully trying to follow the white blazes that were on guard rails, back of signs, and on the pavement. Since I was along the interstate I had a good cell signal so I called the hostel to make sure I was headed in the right direction and they said I was only a mile away. For that mile I climbed a mountain, hiking by headlight as I watched the I-40 traffic zoom by below me. Just before the hostel I saw some people camped by a stream so I hollered "this is Hobo, do I know anyone down there?" Two voices said "hi Hobo! Come down and join us". It was tempting but so was the shower waiting for me at the hostel so I moved on. I arrived at the hostel around 9:00, ate some mac and cheese with spam, took a shower and crawled into my upper bunk bone tired.