Date: 2015-09-29
From: Harpers Ferry, WV

To: Rockfish Gap, VA
Miles today: 161.7

September 15 - 20: Days 105 - 110   Zero Miles at Harper's Ferry.Took a week off the trail, Lynette (PineCone) came to visit. We spent one night together in HF and did a little sight-seeing of the historical buildings, canal, etc. for a day. Then we drove south to Front Royal, VA, found an inexpensive motel with everything we were looking for, including corner room w/ two windows for a delicious September cross-breeze. We drove further south to Luray, VA to explore the Luray Caverns through a mile of underground pathways. Colors of rock and soil, underground pools, active stalagmites and stalactites, and an instrument they call an organ - which to me is more akin to a carillon. This "organ" has hammers that strike stalactites that, when stuck, produce the desired pitch. Then a drive along the northern third of Skyline Drive, which runs for 100 miles through the Shenandoah National Forest. A little gear maintenance and as many hours off my feet as I could manage for six days made up the time off the trail. This was a much needed break and, most important, time to spend with my sweetheart whom I haven't seen since May 29th.9/21 Day 111: 16.6 miles M1182.4Awoke in Front Royal, had a nice IHOP breakfast, then drove northward with Lynette back to Harper's Ferry, WV. After a special goodbye in HF, began hiking again at 10:15 am. Before I could make my way out of town, I met a monk and another AT hiker, had an interesting and long conversation. After only a few miles, I crossed into VA at the same time the rain began and fell all day and into the night. My feet hurt all day today, especially the back of the heels, very tender when they stretch out. Every part of every step was painful. I suppose the time off the trail is the reason for my foot pain as I am today re-awakening to trail life. My feet had just begun to be less numb. Now I long for the numbness again. Hiked on until after dark, set up my tent in the rain at the northern most point of "the roller coaster". Tough first day back on the trail. I have set an objective to hike from Harpers Ferry to Damascus with no zero days. That should get me there in about 1 month's time. Let's see what happens.9/22 Day 112: 13.8 M1196.2 Rod Hollow ShelterHiked the roller coaster today. Not sure why this section is so named, it is quite rocky and rough on the lower legs, but not especially hilly or steep. For the second day back, I'm still adjusting to trail life and with the rocky trail having a significant challenge today. I stopped a bit early today to give my tent, poncho, and other gear a chance to dry before dark. I discovered today the tips of one of my poles broke off. Been really great poles (Fizan). Several deer around the shelter, they don't let me get close, but they also don't run away if I just watch them.9/23 Day 113: 18.4 miles   M1214.6Jim and Molly Denton ShelterTent and poncho dried out surprisingly well over night. Was dark when I awakened at 6:11am, hiked out at 8:00am. I passed through Sky Meadows State Park today, nice hiking through the meadows. Trail much better today, not as rocky and more as I had expected for VA. After crossing under I-66, the trail climbed 500' to an awesome meadow with a bench under a dead apple tree. I watched the shadows get longer in the cool September breeze for a while then moved along to the shelter before dark. I was treated to some nice guitar music from Flyboxer and from Camo at lunch today and then again tonight in this shelter. So far, VA has some nice springs. I've started drinking water from piped springs and when ever I can get it right out of the mountain without filtering. So far, so good. I am also carrying less water again as, with the rain, the streams are running again. The morning started with overcast and fog but by 10 am was clearing up as I moved through the meadows. Turned out to be a beautiful day. Still feeling a bit sluggish and out of sink. Having one tip of my pole broken throws off my rhythm.9/24 Day 114 18.6 miles M1233.2Gravel Springs HutAfter a few miles today, I crossed into the Shenandoah National Park (SNP), registered, and almost immediately saw several deer, one a six-pointer. The trail in the SNP is quite nice and, with the perfect weather today, I was able to enjoy some nice views to the west. Shelters in the SNP are referred to as a "Huts". At the hut where I am staying tonight, six of us there saw three bears, mother and two cubs: beautiful creatures with amazing agility in the forest. Momma bear came down the side trail to the shelter to drink from the spring while the two cubs (and us hikers) watched from a short distance. I felt strong all day, feeling again the rhythm of the hike (was it the aspirin I took all day long?). The food I've carried appears to be exactly the right amount this time as I expect to resupply in the morning.9/25 Day 115: 17.5 miles M1250.7Byrds Nest #3 HutWhen clouds and fog move through the trees in the mountains, water drips from the leaves. Such was the weather all day, wet and cold. I stopped at Elkwallow Wayside for some breakfast (great bacon and egg breakfast) and resupply which included today's lunch and dinner to go. Also was able to add a little charge to my phone. Apples are in season, as are Paw Paw fruits. This hut, and the one I stopped in for lunch were built in the late 1930s.9/26 Day 116: 14.5 miles M1265.2Tented just outside Big Meadows Lodge (3600')Started hiking today in the rain after rain all night. I used the poncho which is working well. Rain let up after an hour or so. Got a couple of nice views around noon today. I stopped in at the Skyland Resort but found the dining room closed, so had some coffee, banana, yogurt, and pastries from the sundry shop - delicious. I hiked on a few more miles to Big Meadows arriving by 3:00pm. As I approached, I saw more deer and a large group of wild turkeys. Again, the dining room was closed, so I made my way into the Tap room and realized today is Saturday when I saw college football games on TV. Had a great lunch, a couple of glasses of nice beer, fish and chips, salad, and blackberry cobbler, and enjoyed a little football - LSU won, yea! Time slipped by me this afternoon and so by 6:30 noticed dark was setting in quickly. I inquired about a room and felt the $150 was a bit much, a preferred room was all that was available. I left close to dark and stopped at the first impromptu tent pad and set up my tent in the all-night dripping rain.9/27 Day 117   20.3 miles M1285.5Hightop Hut (3200')As I hiked out a couple of miles south of Big Meadows, still in the dripping rain, I saw another family of turkeys that ran (fast) away from me down the trail and then veered off to the right not to be seen again. The apples today were delicious. After crossing under a power line (clearing), I came upon two bears (momma and one cub). She darted across the trail as soon as she realized I was there. The cub quickly followed leaping across the trail. As he was in mid-flight, he looked at me with an expression of both curiosity and utter terror. A little further down the trail, I ran into Vintage and Ladybird, who recognized me from White Mountains Hostel in Gorham, NH. Turns out we sat next to each other, had a nice conversation, and they remembered me. Amazing! They have been section hiking the AT and were NOBO at this point hoping to run into a SOBO they recognized - I was happy to oblige. Rain and fog all day, cool. No views again, lonely trail for a Sunday. The poncho is working well, it allows ventilation from below which my rain shell did not. My lower arms get wet, but with the rain pants, all else stays dry.9/28 Day 118: 15.8 M1301.3Tent spot south of Loft Mountain CampgroundRain and fog all day, again - fourth day in a row. Interesting talking last night with two first-time hikers. Takes me back a bit. They had set up their tent in the shelter before I arrived. They moved to a tent pad saying they had heard stories about mice in the shelter. Amazing what grown men will do for fear of tiny creatures, harmless, and not much bigger than a golf ball. Hiked in the rain all day to Loft Mountain Wayside where I had some decaf coffee and apple cider along with lunch. I made my way up to the Camp Store to pick up some supplies, wash my clothes, and also shower. At the store, I met Jackrabbit and Slider (presume husband and wife) whom I met at The Lookout in Vermont where we spoke briefly. I remembered them and we had a pleasant conversation then and again today. Was nice to see familiar faces and southbound through-hikers. Just before dark, about 6:30pm in fog and cloudy sky, I set out on the AT southbound to find a spot to set up my tent. The rain began to pick up so I tented at the first available spot, not a spot used often (if ever), but was somewhat flat. The soil turned out to be very very thin, and rocky. I tried several times to stake the guy wires in the soil, and only after about 15 minutes of searching for and placing rocks to help anchor the stakes, could I raise the tent. So, meanwhile...water made its way into the tent. The inside of my tent was so wet, I decided best not to take my sleeping bag out (because down bags need to stay dry). Instead, I used only my liner and as the temperature dropped, added my rain jacket.   I stayed in my hiking clothes so to leave my clothes in a dry bag, also. The only place in the tent that was dry was the upside of my mattress. The rain came down all night, light rain punctuated by periods of torrential rain that would awaken me. Thankfully the temperature was moderate. I was able to sleep some, thankfully given the circumstances.9/29 Day 119: 26.2 miles M1327.5Colony House Motel, Rockfish Gap, Afton, VAI roused this morning after a restless night to find the water that made its way into the tent as I was setting up had pooled into the lowest corner. I moved the water out and packed everything up in the tent, then packed up the tent, soaked inside and out. I knew this morning I needed to regroup. This being the fifth straight day of rain and inside of my tent was wet, I had lost control. I decided to 'make a run for it' by attempting to hike to where I could get off the trail to stay at a hotel in order to dry out my gear and get a fresh start. That would mean hiking a marathon distance, and I didn't get a fast and early start, so I would need to hike into the night. I did not take a single break or sit down once all day long until I arrived at Rockfish Gap. Lynette helped me by learning that the hotel closest to the trail had closed for remodeling this year and suggested the next closest hotel and confirmed vacancy and let them know I was on the way. As it turned out, 4" of rain fell today. I hiked 26.2 miles in the rain and another half-mile to the hotel. I was (as always but especially this time) grateful for the services available near the trail. I checked into The Colony House Motel. Exhausted, I showered and went on to bed knowing I would address the wet gear in the morning. Great to be in a dry room away from the rain that was still coming down.