Date: 2003-04-17
From: Carvers Gap

To: Road crossing at 19E
Miles today: 13.7

Today was a day for viewing incredible views...ALL DAY LONG! On no other day of our hike so far, have we seen views like these for the entire day! To future hikers - do this unique section on a clear day with a camera and lots of film.   There were 5 of us hiking today: our friend Betty, her friends Lora Beth and Marilyn, Greylock, and me. It was a fun group with much chit chat as we started up Round Bald on newly groomed trails and we soon were in the grassy area atop this first mountain looking over NC and TN. Jane Bald was next, and the views continued.         We walked through wooded hillsides that were white with sweet white violets and dotted with yellow Trout Lilies, Dutchmans Breeches, and toothwort, and the trail led to Stan Murray Shelter where we took a snack break. Less than 2 miles further along was Overmountain Shelter which we had heard much about. It is a converted barn which is neat, with a ladder leading up to a sleeping loft that is huge. We had lunch up there and as we ate the wind began to whistle with intensity through the cracks between the boards. The view from the shelter has to be seen to be believed. It is just too beautiful and perfect, and even the tiny 3-sided privy looks out on this gorgeous view!   The trail leaves the shelter, then climbs a grassy slope to Little Hump Mt. and by this time the wind had gathered strength and the gusts were so strong we had to fight them to stay on the trail. We slowly fought our way upward and through Bradley Gap and then to the biggest climb of the day, Hump Mt.    One of the great things about today's hike was the openness of the area. We could look miles behind us to see the trail we had just been over, and look ahead for miles to see the trail ahead. This is something that I love about the White Mts. in NH. and I was reminded of that feeling of continuity.   Single file we ascended Hump Mt. each of us leaning to the right as we bucked the wind yet taking an occasional side-step to the left as a gust pushed us off the trail. Slowly but surely we made progress and rounded the top, stepping through a stile into a grassy area that was fenced in by barbed wire.   On the ground we began to see cow pies... really BIG ones! As we crested a hill there to our amazement was a small herd of longhorn cattle. They grazed not paying much attention to us walking by (thank goodess!), but their horns were enormous (they must have been 5 ft. wide) and the sight of them alongside us made for quick glances as we walked by just to make sure they were staying there and that they were not going to come over and get hiker-friendly. :)   From here, the trail went mostly downhill for the next 5.4 miles. The skies were beginning to darken so we walked quickly over large rock strewn hillsides and down and down and down. At Doll Flats we began to feel raindrops that teased us for a while, stopping then starting again, but just before we reached Apple House Shelter it began to rain lightly and continued until we were safely in Betty's car waiting for us on 19E.   THEN, it began to POUR! All the way back to Blowing Rock it rained HARD. The forecast is for rain again tomorrow, but our plan is to start out again after a ride back to 19E, and head north with our packs once again. Thanks Betty and Danny for a wonderful stay and a wonderful chance to slack-pack today.   Thank you, Lord, for being the ultimate View Master. It was great to see your handiwork today.