Date: 2006-03-26
From: Carter Gap Shelter

To: Winding Stair Gap (Franklin NC)
Miles today: 15.9
Weather: broken clouds

In the morning, one of the guys went to the privy and came back annoyed. "One of those college kids took a dump on the trail between the shelter and the privy," he said.I asked if he was sure it was human crap, as I had heard something big last night, and one of the other guys said he heard it, too. We went to check, and sure enough, it was bear scat on the trail.All my water was frozen solid. The bladder was a mass of ice, and the Gatorade bottle was a - thunk, thunk - sold ice club.I bummed a few ounces of water from one of the college kids so I could take my antibiotic, and headed up the trail, leaving about 7:15. A little way up the trail, I realized I was already thirsty, but figured I could fire up my stove and melt some snow for water.Stove! I had taken my cookset apart to use the titanium pot for water for my pills. I didn't remember re-packing it. It was easier to go back and look than take my pack apart. Sure enough, back at the shelter was my cookset - pot, stove, lighter, windscreen, measuring cup - sitting on the picnic table.Close call.I started hiking again. It was now 7:45. My plan was to hike to Rock Gap Shelter, about 12 miles, and spend the night. Then, tomorrow morning, I would hike the four miles to Winding Stair Gap and get a ride into Franklin and spend the night in town.I wasn't feeling too good, though still better than before. I'm able to hike okay, but I'm still not right.I was glad to be hiking. It was very cold. My body had heated up a bit, but my toes were still numb.I was getting thirsty, but I knew it was only four fairly level miles to Bearpen Gap where Fishin' Fred supposedly had a Trail Magic setup. There I could get some water, unfreeze my water pump, and maybe get a bite to eat, since I'd bypassed breakfast, not having any water this morning.I was very thirsty, and eventually put my Gatorade bottle inside my shirt so it would melt a bit. Not much melted, but the occasional sip was nice.I passed several streams, but being already sick, did not want to chance it getting worse with giardia or some lower intestinal virus to go along with my upper respiratory infection. I reached Bearpen Gap at 10:30, and quickly received some water. I got out my measuring cup and had a cup of coffee. I sat on the tailgate of a pickup talking with Pilgrim, alternately drinking water and coffee.Gator started making pancakes on Fishin' Fred's big saw blade. The youngsters from Rock Gap Shelter the other day were there, but declined any pancakes until me and a couple other older hikers were served.Kids today get a bad rap, but I invariably find them polite to older people. I thanked them, and grabbed a couple pancakes. They were delicious. In a few minutes the kids called to me. They were going to have seconds, but wanted me to get mine first. I took one, and left the rest for them. Nice kids. They had joined the Marines. They didn't have to report until early summer, and were hiking until then.Finally, I got off my butt, and started hiking at noon. Interestingly, the next shelter was either a mile away, or a couple hundred yards, depending on whether you climbed over the exceedingly steep Albert Mountain on the AT, or walked along a level road.Albert Mountain was tough, and reminded me again that I was not fully better. I did okay on slight uphills, but anything with any steepness killed me.Heading down the north slope (yeah, since Carter Gap I had been hiking north), there was a lot of snow, but the trail was gradual.I stopped at the shelter, re-packed my backpack, and headed north. The trail was great: gradual downhill for three miles, a mile of uphill, then two more miles of downhill. A little after three thirty I was at Rock Gap Shelter.This was my planned night stop, but it was very cold. The shelter was in a hollow on the north slope of a mountain, and it was already cold. Maybe I'd hike on to Winding Stair Gap and spend the night in town.I checked my cell phone and had a signal. I called Dave at the Haven. They were full, but Dave said he'd reserve a spot at the Sapphire for me. I put the cell phone away and started hiking.I had already covered twelve miles that day and was tired, but made decent time to Wallace Gap (Old 64). From then on it was tough going. The trail was very steep uphill, and I was not only winded, but my legs were tired.It was a struggle, but I dogged at it. Most discouraging were all the false summits. Just when it seemed that I was about to hit the highest point on the knob, I would reach a false summit and see another high point just ahead. Eventually though, I had to reach the last false summit and watch it become the real summit, and then see the trail go downhill. YEA!!!!!!I got to the gap quickly, and stuck out my thumb. A half hour later, I was still there, trying to hitchhike. It was Sunday night, and traffic was very light.Again I pulled out my cell phone. Weak, but a signal. I called Dave. He said Ron was heading up, and for me to sit tight.Ron showed up minutes later, and saw that I was chilled. He was bringing his wife and twin sons up to Bearpen Gap, but he stopped for me. He called the Sapphire and arranged for Solace to bring the van up to get me. While waiting, he had me sit in his RV. I chatted with him and his lovely wife, while he played the banjo in the back seat. He mentioned last week to me that he played the banjo, but he didn¢t say he was that good.It was an awesome half hour. Exhausted, but warm, half dozing, listening to Ron play. It was a moment out of time, and one I will cherish in my mind.Solace showed up, and I switched to the van. On the way into town, he stopped at Ingles for me, so I could buy some milk and fruit and a 2-liter soda.I checked into the Sapphire. Warm now, I realized I was hungry. I went to Prime Buffet with Crutch. I had a big sirloin. I ordered a second, and while it was cooking, went to the buffet line, and got some ribs, a bit of BBQ, a big scoop each of mashed potatoes, mashed sweet potatoes, and creamed corn. Obviously, my appetite was back. I had cherry pie for dessert, and Crutch and I headed for home.Dan called me, and we talked for a couple minutes. Then I took a long shower, called my wife, and hit the sack about nine o'clock.