Date: 2008-04-08
From: Clingmans Dome

To: Icewater Spring Shelter
Miles today: 10.9
Weather: scattered clouds

After my evacuation from Clingmans Dome around Midnight, followed by an all-nighter in the Sevierville, TN, Hospital Emergency Room (complete with a series of IV bags of fluids; X-rays; and extensive bloodwork), I was released into the 5:00am darkness of a strange and barren land -- on foot and with not a friend in the world and only my headlamp, trekking poles, and backpack to keep me company...The doctor ordered rest and more fluids -- especially those with electrolytes in them. My poor arms are very bruised from the many times several folks tried and failed to place IV's in them... I kept my sleeves rolled down for fear of being mistaken for a junkie on the streets of Sevierville...I now know that in order to get back to the Newfound Gap Area, I'd have to cross a vast land of tourist traps and micro-hotels. This particular strip starts near my evacuation hospital and follows Route 441 for miles through Sevierville, Pigeon Forge, and Gatlinburg before winding up through the Smokies to again reach my beloved Appalachian Trail... The ladies who worked the Third Shift at the Hospital weren't certain of where they were in relation to the Smoky Mountains, let alone to be able to direct me back to the Trail...Never-the-less, I turned right out of the hospital parking lot and walked for several miles before I found nothing and nobody -- and so backtracked and then turned left out of that very same parking lot -- still in the early morning darkness with the occasional commuter racing toward their workplaces (and with no time nor inclination to stop to help me with directions). Eventually, as the sun was about to rise, I saw in the distance a familiar sight -- THE GOLDEN ARCHES of a McDonald's! I was saved, and I'd have a breakfast burrito and coffee as well...I had reached the far end of that strip of businesses and touristy places I mentioned earlier... To make a long story short, it took me three hitches, two trolly rides, and about four hours, and I found myself at the Happy Hiker (just off of Light #10 in Gatlinburg -- at the base of the mountain). These are very helpful folks and from Light #10 I made my final hitch up the mountain to resume my trek northward.Hitching through this area was one of the hardest I've found along the trail. Vehicles are full of tourists. Others fear 'transients.' A couple of trail-aware folks stopped to tell me they didn't have the time to drop me up there...Once again at the Trail, I found a sunny and warm day, filled with day hikers and tourists of all descriptions. I gave a couple of interviews and posed for a couple of pictures, and then climbed to the Icewater Spring Shelter.Was this what the doctor had in mind for me the day after my release? Not exactly... I started to display more of the same symptoms and decided to get down out of the altitude (at least that which was above the 5,400 foot mark, anyway).On the way back down to Newfound Gap, I met Walky Talky (also on Trail Journals) and a nice family from Indiana as well as many other day hikers.Down to the Gran Prix Motel I went, and Steve (a very hiker friendly owner) issued me a room for the night along with Internet access for about 1/2 hour.I could have spent several days 'recovering' in Gatlinburg, but instead opted for a Greyhound busride home.