Date: 2005-03-29
From: Winding Stair Gap, NC

To: Wayah Bald, NC
Miles today: 10.1

Before I kick off with the commentary, here is an email from Jess in response to somewhat heated posts on her guestbook (which I was unaware existed until just now, and dude, it turns out all kinds of people read this thing. If any of you are literary agents, call me!) clarifying her thoughts about politics and the Trail:Dear John,Thank you so much for your thoughtful guestbook entry. I'm entirely glad that you chose to post despite misgivings, and truly grateful for the opportunity to hear your thoughts.You're absolutely right that conservatives arrive at their beliefs through as much thought as liberals, and that the abortion issue involves questions about the sanctity of life as much as it does questions of socioeconomic exigency. I'm glad you stated it plainly, because while I meant to convey the same ideas, you're not the only one to have misconstrued my intent. I wish I'd managed to speak more clearly.The last thing I meant to imply was that I find conservatives dimwitted - the opposite, in fact, was true, as I have spent time with a number of thoughtful, kind, and generous conservatives whom I have valued the chance to know.I've looked back over the entry and I think that it was a very brief glossing-over of hotbutton issues like abortion that raised the umbrage of some readers. But the mention of those issues was brief because, in my mind, they were not the primary point of the entry.What I was really trying to do was to examine the political and ideological split in this country, and the way the specific culture of the Trail played up a pre-existing unwillingness to talk through differences. One reader - to whom I wish I could respond, but s/he did not leave a return email address- took offense at the line about "an unbroachable chasm between an arrogant and disconnected liberal intelligentsia on the one hand and a close-minded and unthinking conservative horde on the other." What that reader didn't understand was that I wasn't characterizing anyone that way - I was stating what I've found to be pervading stereotypes in this country about people on either side of the political divide. I don't think "close-minded and unthinking" applies to most conservatives any more than I hope "arrogant and disconnected" applies to me. In any case, I'm trying very hard to be fair.But part of being fair, while writing, meant that I also wanted to be honest about my own biases - of which, like everyone else, I have many. That's why I mentioned specific hot-button political issues in the first place- not because I intended that entry to be a thorough analysis of those issues, but because I wanted to be straightforward about the angle from whence I see what I see.I hope this helps to clarify what I meant, and may have failed to communicate the first time. Again, I thank you for writing. It's a pleasure to receive thoughtful criticism. Please, keep it coming. I'm cc-ing this email to Sara, my transcriber - with your permission, I'd like to post this as an entry on the journal, so that I can clarify for others as well.All my best to you,Jess / Break a LegAlright, let's get this party started. Day 16, in which Jess finally leaves the motel, stops by the post office (probably to send me more entries), finds beer in the woods, plans illegal activity, makes me think of my sister's tapeworm joke, and actually walks ten miles: Finally managed to get out of Franklin! No slight at all to the Haven, or to Conrad or Ronnie there-- a wonderful place to stay, and certainly recommended. Still, it's good to be back on the trail. And what a glorious day! At least seventy-five degrees and sunny. You can hardly believe it was snowing a day ago. After a late start-- had to make a morning run to the post office, and also talked a little with Solace, KTR's twin brother (though I have yet to meet KTR in person myself) who, it turns out, has spent many a summer in the same New Hampshire park where I used to live. A delightfully small world-- we hit the trail. Beautiful weather, and I was energized from the rest days-- we made it to Siler Bald for lunch in what seemed like no time at all, and the views were incredibly. Weatherman looked sharp in neon green sunglasses. ("They were my son's. Forty-nine bucks. He begged for 'em. Then he left 'em laying around three times, and they became mine. He's still pissed.")Six miles or so later, we reached the tower on Wayah Bald, just in time for sunset. Just before the tower, we were startled and surprised to find a cooler in the trees full of soda, beer, gatorade, and candy. Weatherman was a short ways behind, taking his time on account of a troublesome ankle. "Weatherman!" I yelled, "come on! We're here! And there's beer!" There was no response; he was too far back.Scholar, Cuppa Joe, and I climbed the tower to catch the sunset, figuring Weatherman couldn't be more than a few minutes behind. We met a nice group of guys on spring break from Auburn, and talked a few minutes; they left, and we discussed staying the night, illegally, on top of the tower. We'd be up there for sunrise. It's be great. Camping wasn't allowed. "We're not camping," said Scholar, "we're spending the night." Good enough for me.Then, a noise from below. Weatherman was standing at the base of the tower, arms flung wide, a Bud in one hand and a sh-t-eating grin on his face. "THERE IS A GOD!" he hollered.I ate grapes and beans for dinner-- the pack weight was killing me-- and Weatherman complained about being hungry all the time."That's your trail appetite kicking in," said Cuppa Joe."Naw," said Weatherman, "I've always had this problem. Just being constantly hungry. I used to think I had a tapeworm, but I know I don't 'cause I set out milk for it and nothing happened.""What?" I said."You know," he said, "you set out a cup of milk, and it attracts the tapeworm out?"Scholar's look was incredulous. "I don't think that works," she said."Really?" he said. "Oh. Well, but then I ate peanut butter and eggshells, and nothing happened, so it couldn't have been a tapeworm."This time my look was incredulous. "Peanut butter and eggshells?" he said. "Kills a tapeworm?""I dunno," I said. "Maybe. But I don't think so.""Pretty sure not," said Scholar."Dang," said Weatherman.Bedtime stories tonight involved, in various permutations, alcohol, encounters with armed officers, and food fights.Quote of the day, during lunch on Siler Bald:Weatherman: "I ever tell you about the run-in I had with a goose?"Me: "Did it give you a black eye?"Weatherman: "Naw. But it sh-t on me."Me: "So basically what you're saying is, you've been beat up bad by the animal world."Weatherman: "Basically, yeah, you could say that."