Date: 2015-08-19
From: Stealth Camping Just Above Whitewall Brook

To: AMC Highlands Center, Crawford Notch
Miles today: 8.4

Surprisingly I was able to sleep a few hours, and I actually slept later than I planned. I packed quickly and headed for Zealand Falls Hut to have breakfast and see the weather report. Although it was less than a mile, the trail was very rocky and I was glad I did not hike it in the dark last night.The Croo at Zealand Falls Hut was not as friendly as at the other huts. I asked if there were any leftovers from breakfast and was told there was oatmeal and coffee cake I could have in exchange for washing dishes. I only wanted coffee cake, and I wanted to pay for it so I could move on as quickly as possible. The Croo member was noticeably not happy. In exchange for $2 I received a corner piece of coffee cake burned on 2 edges, passed to me with his bare wet hands. Yummy!!The weather report called for possible scattered showers late in the afternoon. I needed to keep moving. I checked out the falls near the hut, which looked more like a spillway, then headed up the AT.The trail was surprisingly smooth and relatively level. This was too good to be true! I asked several southbound hikers I passed about the trail, and they assured me that with a few exceptions the trail was great all the way to Crawford Notch. I made good time and was really enjoying the trail and my hike. Occassionally there were rock slides across the trail I had to climb over, but for the most part the trail was a breeze. The AT went from a forest out into an open area with a gorgeous view of the valley. Then it ducked back into the forest. As with all good things, they must eventually come to an end. Rocks and then boardwalks started to appear, which means the area can be very wet. Then the wind picked up and the sky grew dark. The predicted rain was coming early. Then it started to sprinkle. Before long it was raining very hard with thunder and lightening fairly close by. I was SO glad I was not up on a ridge somewhere above treeline!The trail became very wet and muddy. Water ran inside my pack cover and collected at the bottom, so I had to reach back periodically and release the extra water weight. Of course that meant that my pack was soaked. All the padding and straps which make the pack comfortable also absorb water when it rains, or sweat when it is really humid. The extra water in the padding makes the pack even heavier.My boots were also full of water. I was wearing my gortex socks, so my feet should have stayed dry, but the rain was running down my legs and inside my gortex socks. My wool socks and feet were soaked.I decided to stop at the Ethan Pond Shelter, which was .2 off the trail, to get out of the storm. I had to rock hop across a brook feeding into the pond to get to the shelter. But I eventually made it over the rocks and out of the rain. Two other hikers also took refuge from the storm at the shelter. I quickly made adjustments with my clothing to avoid getting chilled. I also took off my boots and rang out my socks. We each made hot meals while we waited out the storm. It was interesting to see what the other hikers made to eat and how they cooked it.As soon as the sun came out I moved on. I decided to head for the AMC Highland Center at Crawford Notch.   I was exhausted from lack of sleep, and now I was soaked to the bone. I was worried the pneumonia was going to make a comeback. It was time for a bed, hot shower, and a place to dry out my gear.But first I had to figure out how to cross the now ragging brook that fed into the pond. I tried several different ways to cross. I was very afraid that if I slipped I would be swept into the pond and drown. Eventually I made it across the brook, up the .2 miles of side trail, and back to the AT, which was now a flowing river. There seemed to be no point in trying to rock hop. My feet, boots, and socks were already soaked. So I just slogged through the water. Thankfully the trail otherwise remained relatively easy and I still made good time.Just before Crawford Notch 2 older day hikers passed me. I later saw them again in the parking lot and I asked if they were going past the AMC Highland Center. Not only did they agree to take me 4 or 5 miles to the Highland Center, they waited while I went in to see if a room was available. What nice guys!! Fortunately I was able to get a private room in the lodge. I took a long hot shower, washed out my clothes, and strung my bear bag line across the room to make a clothes line. Then I had a huge dinner before going to bed. The fan both helped to dry my clothes and masked any noise in the hall. I slept GOOD! The AT is calling. I will be back, but right now I need a little R&R.