Date: 2020-09-16
From: Stealth site on Mt. Guyot mile 1836.1

To: Nauman Campsite
Miles today: 17.9

Cold but calm in the morning. Though not as cold as forecast, even here at 4500 feet. I got moving early and ate breakfast while hiking - an apple and a couple blueberry breakfast bars.The first few miles went along the Zealand Ridge, passing some great views of Whitewall Slide, an exposed cliff. I met several dayhiking couples who came up early by the Zealand side trail. Also out were a backpacking couple in their sixties, and SOBOs Zan and Skipper, who started from Katahdin in the first half of August. There was no water until Zealand Falls Hut, a steep climb down from the ridge. The hut was still operating but didn't open until 11 so I missed a lunch opportunity. Oh well! Had to keep moving if I didn't want to climb Webster Cliffs in the dark.After Zealand Falls the trail turned to a level dirt path for several miles. I crossed paths with Trash once again. He was on his last section to finish New Hampshire, heading south to Franconia Notch. Congrats Trash!The trail followed a wide river valley with an unusually open view, including a traverse of a boulder field through Whitewall Slide. It was dirt trail with only occasional rocky sections all the way down to Crawford Notch.There I decided against hitching to a gas station or deli for lunch. The nearest was 8 miles away and it would likely take over an hour with hitching. Better to start the climb, get done early, wake up early, and get to town tomorrow evening. Be a day ahead of plan and give me some flexibility if I need it later.The climb up to Webster Cliffs was mostly a rock staircase but not too technical. However the last thousand feet up to Mt. Webster threw in many tricky ledge scrambles. Very slow going. Was barely doing a mile an hour in places. Glad I didn't hitch out for lunch. On Mt. Webster I met a soft-spoken hiker named, appropriately, Speak Up. He and his girlfriend are hiking Moosilauke to Katahdin using two vehicles to slackpack themselves along the way. He thruhiked in 2017.After calm air yesterday, overnight, and this morning, the wind picked up in Crawford Notch. On the cliffs they were quite strong. I stopped in a protected stretch to use cell service to reserve entry to the Mt. Washington visitor center tomorrow. Without a reservation I can't get into the building, and I can't get lunch! The three mile walk from Webster over Mt. Jackson to Nauman Campsite went quickly, though there were many boulders to climb. There the Mizpah Springs Hut was shuttered and the water turned off. The only water between Crawford Notch and Mt. Washington is a puddle by the campsite. The campsite caretaker was gone for the season. A couple from Connecticut was setting up on one of the tent platforms. They were here for their anniversary. They try to get up here every year around this time, after the crowds and heat have gone. They offered me their map to photograph, as there are so many trails in this area. A hiker from Vermont popped in - he thruhiked the AT in '15 and did most of the PCT in '17 until he developed a stress fracture. Currently he's poking around the Presidentials and plans to hike the Long Trail in a few weeks. Gave us a trip report of what we'll see tomorrow.I pitched my tent on one of the precious few dirt patches. The campsite has seven wooden platforms but my trekking pole tent needs to be well staked and tying the lines to boards doesn't hold up well. Cooked up a hot noodle dinner with some chicken thrown in, and ate most of what was in my dinner bag. I'm burning the ship for tomorrow - no food means it's town or bust!The wind is really whipping up this evening. The temperature should be about the same as last night, but it will feel colder. At least, outside of my cozy quilt.