Date: 2010-05-12
From: Catawba Mountain Shelter

To: Daleville, VA
Miles today: 17.8
Weather: clear sky

Rising and FallingI passed the 700 mile mark yesterday, and except for slipping and sliding down the deep snow of Clingmans Dome, I have escaped falling heretofore. Today, I fell twice.I was excited to see that the fog had lifted in the morning as the trail promised spectacular views of the valleys if skies were clear.I climbed the first slope and arrived at McAfee Knob within an hour. There was some haze, but the views from these high rocks were spectacular. I lingered and took many photos. You could see the sharp ridge that the trail followed to the north to the next landmark: Tinker Cliffs. The ridgewalk was not too bad, but did involve some scrambles over limestone boulders. Just before the steep climb to the cliffs, my foot slipped out while traversing a steeply pitched boulder. Under the weight of the pack, I landed on my left side abruptly. I didn't even make it to the first "h" of "Oh sh#t" before my elbow and left side slammed into the unforgiving surface. I clawed my way up with difficulty under the weight of the pack and attacked the offending boulder viciously with the tips of my walking sticks and launched into a monologue that I felt appropriate for the occasion. Tantrum over, I moved onto the second stage of falling: damage assessment. My shirt was torn near the elbow, but no bones were protruding, and no blood was gushing. I seemed to have full motion of the left elbow and forearm: this was good. There was an abrasion on the outside of my left calf, but not much pain. It appeared that I was still in business.I headed up the climb to Tinker Cliffs fueled with anger and indignation. Thankfully, these feelings dissipated by the time that I reached the top.The trail runs right along the edge of cliffs that drop vertically for 30-40 feet. The views are stunning. You can follow the ridge just traveled back to McAfee Knob. Once again, I lingered taking many pictures.Afterwards, the trail descends a while until it crosses to another ridge. As I was walking down the path in quiet, serene contemplation, there came a sudden, loud rustle, and a flurry of black moving very close to me. I don't know what I was thinking, but my body was probably thinking "BEAR!" when it leapt skyward and perhaps a bit backwards. As I was airborne, I had two thoughts. One was that turkey buzzards sure take a while to take off when startled. The second thought was that they are not very pretty birds with all that loose red wrinkled skin on their faces. As I began my descent and re-entry to earth, I realized that it was unlikely that I would stick this landing. Sure enough, my heels landed downslope of the trail and I could feel the pack pull me backwards into what would become a series of flips and somersaults down the steep leafy slope. I was able to dig in my heels and stop tumbling after about 20 yards. Thankfully, nothing was damaged this time except for my pride. I quickly scanned the woods for witnesses, and then clawed my way back up to the trail. I had just survived a close encounter with two turkey vultures who were probably eating a dead thing when I walked by and startled them.A couple of miles later, I had an uplifting experience. I happened upon an unassuming man who was completing a relocation section of the trail. He said "you won't find any rocks on my trail because I dig them all out." Sure enough, the trail that he was laboring over was smooth graded soil. He clearly loved the A.T. and had given thousands of hours as a volunteer to improve and maintain it. I stopped to learn more and found that he had thru-hiked with his wife and two children, ages 8 and 11 in 2002! He and his wife were called The Odd Couple, his daughter: Cascade, and his son: Rockslide. He and his wife are planning to do their second thru-hike in 2012. I find it fascinating how people can dedicate so much of themselves to the trail and how the trail calls them back to complete more than one thru-hike.I headed down the trail again, this time, my pack felt much lighter. I left this special encounter inspired and energized.The trail ascended a high rocky ridge with commanding views of the valleys on either side. The walk was made more dramatic by a gathering storm and rolling thunder to the northeast. I was grateful to finally begin the final descent into Daleville before being struck by lightning.I checked into HoJos upon arriving. Later that evening I was thrilled to see On the Loose and Braids in the lobby. They were waiting for Tank to drive them down to Damascus for Trail Days. It was so wonderful to see them again!There were many other happy reunions, then, it was off to sleep in a real bed.Sweet dreams...With realization of one's own potential and self-confidence in one's ability, one can build a better world. -Dalai Lama