Date: 2003-08-04
From: Cloudland Shelter

To: Norwich, VT
Miles today: 14.2

We'd been the only ones at the shelter last night. It had been so far off the Trail that few ventured. But between the thunderstorm, the terrain and our wrung-out selves, it was the obvious choice for us.Mindful of yesterday's strength-sapping heat in the rain forests of Vermont, we rose even earlier and set out. I could feel the pack-shouldering reluctance in my body. It had rained off and on all night, and the overgrown raspberry bushes soaked us in short order.Within the hour, we were at Thistle Hill shelter, poised to go down to West Hartford where I had a maildrop of camera supplies. We signed in, and checked out the privy - it was a screened gazebo. The Dartmouth Outing Club, which maintains this section of Trail, is said to express its sense of humor with "interesting" outhouses. So that's where their energy goes - it's sure not in designing switchbacks.We cross a few ridgetop meadows, and I am struck repeatedly by its spicy-sweet smell. I wish I knew what gracious plant was offering up that heady scent of sweet spice. There exists a cultivated tea rose named "Sonia," and its coral pink blossoms unfurl in such a luscious swirl of pure color you want to eat them. But Sonia also has a spicy scent to match its shade. "Sonia" smells like this meadow. The hills continue to be aggravating, though not quite as difficult as yesterday. We are cutting diagonally across ridges to reach the White Mountain chain, so there is virtually no ridge walking, just constant up and down. We feel like a small boat crashing directly into the waves, then climbing, then tipping nose first and diving down into the next trough. Over and over.The flies, gnats, mosquitos and deerflies are tortuous this morning, forming a halo around our heads. I smack a dozen deerflies, at least, as they tangle in my hair. I have misplaced my bottle of catnip oil, and have no bug repellent.In addition, we have been sweating so heavily in the jungles of Vermont, that my shirt and pack smell sour. I can hardly stand myself.By 11 am, the Trail leads us through the small town of West Hartford, where we straggle into Rick and Tina's General Store just as the rain hits. "Rick and Tina," says Chief, pulling out his wallet, "this is your lucky day. Get ready to retire."We haul our hiker appetites up to the counter and order cheeseburgers, onion rings and chocolate milkshakes, then Gatorades, coffees and chocolate milks for dessert. What luck! Meanwhile, in the bathroom, I strip off my foul hiking shirt and rinse it and my bra out out with antibacterial hand soap in the sink, then wring the quick-dry material out. There are paper towels, so I give myself a quick wash too, then wipe up the sink so as to leave no trace. Don't want to turn anyone off hikers. But my god! It feels so good to be clean.The General Store people weren't too helpful with the phone, but Al, an auto mechanic across from the PO let me use his. I find out from Skeemer that young Mule not only had salmonella and giardia, but possibly Lyme's disease too! He was a sick puppy. He still plans to return to finish the Trail, and his enthusiasm is undaunted.Go to PO, not open till 1 pm. Chief snoozes on the garage's couch. I do chores, then we return to the general store. Sparky and Zapman, Songbird and DeJaVu are there now. I hadn't seen the latter since Kincorra in TN.On the way out of town, a young boy, Matt, runs over with bananas for us. His grandpa, rocking on the porch, smiles quietly. Simple kindness!We bypass Happy Hill shelter, and start down into Norwich, VT, supposedly the inspiration for "The Bob Newhart Show." On the way, it outright pours down. We are bedraggled and thoroughly drenched when we straggle into The Norwich Inn. We fear we will be snubbed. And, no room in the Inn! Yet the lovely hostess calls around, finds us a cheap motel and calls a cab. So much for prejudgement.We end up in the very clean and reasonable Sunset Motel in Hanover, NH! If we had known Hanover was a simple 1.5 mile road walk away, we would have just hiked it in. Ah well, the rooms here are nice, with a sunset view over the famous Connecticut River. Yes, we got the tiniest peek of the sun setting, between cloud layers. Zapman and Sparky are here, along with DejaVu and Songbird. They called a cab from West Hartford, and are going back there tomorrow. It's just too wet!Another surprise! Hambone and Papa Bear, two section hiking guys I haven't seen since the day poor Chief came looking for room in the shelter from the rain - and there was none. That was, what? NC? You never know who you will meet on the Trail. Paths often cross.We stuff our faces with pizza, and sleep well in the AC.