Date: 2015-05-05
From: Fontana Dam Route 28

To: Mollies Ridge Shelter
Miles today: 12.3
Weather: scattered clouds

2012.2 miles to go.I had intended to get back on the trail yesterday, but gave up on that in the evening.When my amazing, all-weekend-and-then-some Beale Street blaze was finished I found myself back at Fontana Village Resort. I picked up the packages they were holding for me: a resupply box from Momza, a sleeping bag liner to sleep warmer, and some New Balance shoes to replace my Merrells! I tried on the shoes immediately, but they were too small (I hate buying shoes online) so I set about returning them. That taken care of, I began (yet again) shopping for shoes online. I finally found some minimalist trail shoes from Merrell with enough good reviews to warrant trying (I'm wearing their Vapor Glove right now and love it, but it isn't durable enough for the trail so I'm going to try their Trail Glove instead). I called Merrell and they agreed to refund me for the current shoes since they were getting holes after the first 100 miles, and then I went online and ordered the new shoes with expedited shipping. That literally took most of the day.After resupplying at the Fontana Village General Store and repacking, I savored my ceremonial Mt. Dew and Reese's Cups while waiting to catch the shuttle out. Once we arrived at the trail, I saw two hikers catching a ride into town. It was after six by this time, so I and another guy asked if they wanted to split a room, which is what we did - and that's how I met Finch (Anna M. Downes), Pony (Ellen Baldwin), and Custom (Andrew Taylor). We went back to Fontana Village, got a room, and then hit up the restaurant. I went to bed kind of early, but not before enjoying the sunset on the back porch while playing my guitar. The next morning we all ate breakfast and then I headed out before the rest of them; I had been off the trail for several days and I was itching to get some miles in.I got dropped off at the trail around 10:30 or so and began walking. The first thing I passed was the "Fontana Hilton," a shelter maintained by the TVA with showers and bathrooms - truly luxurious for a hiker shelter! I kept moving, and made my way to the actual Fontana Dam. I toured their little Dam museum and learned about the Dam history, then took some Dam photos of my own. Their Dam gift shop was closed due to Dam construction, or I would have bought a Dam postcard and maybe even a Dam snack.The AT goes right across the top of Fontana Dam, and immediately on the other side you hit the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Of course, coming out of the Dam meant about six hours of up, up, and more up... but it makes for some gorgeous views. I took the side trail and climber the fire tower on Shuckstack, which looks abandoned and was left open. Later on I found what just might be the coolest tree on the entire AT: it's old, dead, and hollow enough at the bottom that I could have curled up inside it and still had room for my backpack. I could have even stood entirely inside it!I passed the a campsite that was closed down due to a recent bear attack there; the bear allegedly ripped open a tent and stole two backpacks from inside, according to park rangers. The bear could not be reached for comment. I left my pack leaning against the warning sign while I went down the hill to fill up on water. Hey, a bear is one thing, but you get THIRSTY while hiking! Luckily (or unluckily), I saw no hostile creatures today (well, I did see another copperhead).When I got to the shelter, I was eating dinner and thinking of pushing on since the next shelter is only 3.7 miles farther. While I was eating and pondering, it started raining and made up my mind for me. In the Smokies, one of their MANY silly little rules is that you have to stay IN the shelter if there is room - you can only camp outside if the shelter is full. And so, I am spending my first night inside an actual shelter.