Date: 2009-05-25
From: Dick's Dome Shelter, Virginia

To: Bears Den Hostel, Bluemont, Virginia
Miles today: 18.9
Weather: light rain

Friends and Trailfollowers:Thanks for your patience. I put in a nine day stretch without a computer since getting back on the trail on Sunday, May 17.My recent travels took me through the Shenandoah National Park. I had incredible weather and with the relatively easy terrain, I was able to fly through the 107 Miles of the Park in record time. In fact, from the 17th until today, I logged 179.7 miles over the nine day stretch. Part of it was my desire to get back on the trail and some of it the long-shot chance of catching up with my pre-Alaskan Cruise hiking partners. Either way, I came out of the gates in a sprint - until the humidity hit. The last three days have NOT been the 60s weather with low humidity of the Shenendoahs. The muggy weather really taxes hikers, especially on the uphills. This will be the new challenge that replaces the COLD of my early days.I can finally say that I saw my first (and only) bear this past Thursday. He was running down an embankment off of the AT as I approached him. He wasn't big, maybe a two year-old but he was moving. No chance to get out my camera. Alas, I wasn't shutout, but I have no record of my encounter. Maybe in New Jersey I'll have time to snap the photo of a suburban bear.Yesterday, as I approached the fantastic Bears Den hostel, I saw my first Timber rattlesnake! I actually saw the last third of him crossing the trail in front of me. On my next step, he felt my presence was getting a little too close and he began to rattle. Luckily, he wasn't coiled in a 'strike' position, but rather was just giving me a friendly warning. He was about 2 1/2 feet long. I did get a picture of him, which I'll share with you later. I've heard from other hikers that the warmer weather has brought the rattlesnakes out. They really don't want to tangle with people and don't want to waste their venom on something they can't kill or eat, so it seems to be a mutually cautious co-existence.I'm glad to report that the current score is:Da'Bears - 1Da'Rattlers - 1Da'Leader - 1I have to admit, all factors considered, the Shenandoahs were my favorite part of Appalachian Trail, to date. It is a beautiful park and conveniently located to millions of potential users. It has strategically located "Waysides" or restaurants. Hiking through it over Memorial Day gave me more than enough people to meet up with and have conversations. In fact, it got to the point that I wouldn't admit to being a thru-hiker, to avoid the typical 20-questions and to keep up my hiking pace. But seeing so many other people take advantage of this National Park was enjoyable.Let me describe some "trail magic" that occurred to me over a 24-hour stretch. Trail magic is good stuff that happens to a thru-hiker, typically provided by 'trail angels' or the trail gods. My 24 hours of trail magic started last Wednesday at noon. After hiking hard and early to get to Lewis Mountain Campground, I rewarded myself with a shower, laundry and e-mail access. I met and began hiking with Old Spice, a 19 year-old thru hiker. After a while he took a side trail to a shelter to get water, as I continued up the trail. He came back with some great pictures of a medium-to-large size black bear. It seems he got down to the shelter to find this bear digging through the fire pit (you wonder what happens to thse hotdogs that fall off your stick). The bear ran about 20 yards away, before returning to what was, in his mind, rightfully his. Old Spice snapped some pictures from a safe distance....Later that night Old Spice and I decided to stop short of the next logical shelter and aim for the Big Meadows campgrounds and pay for a campsite. It turns out some trail angel paid (in advance) for a campsite for the next thru-hiker to come in for a the night. BINGO, it was us! Then as we walked around, we met up with Triple C as she was meeting up with her family for dinner. BINGO, chicken n'dumplings til the cows came home! Then Thursday morning Old Spice and I were the first at the Big Meadows Wayside for 8:00 am breakfast. Mike and his daughter, Shannon came in later, overheard our conversations, and BINGO, Mike buys our breakfast. Turns out Mike was a thru-hiker in 1975. Then to end my string of good luck, I saw my bear later that morning. That is trail magic.As I write this, I have completed 993.1 miles with 1,185.2 miles of official Appalachian Trail ahead of me. I expect to hike through Virginia, West Virginia and Maryland by the weekend. This is only a stretch of 61 miles, but allows me three 'state crossing' cigars to smoke. From there I head into Pennsylvania and its 232 miles of Appalachian Trail.I will keep you all apprised of my progress. I go home to Charlotte for the weekend of June 12-13 for my daughter, Shannon's high school graduation and 18th birthday celebration. I preliminarily plan to be at the PA/NJ border near the Delaware Water Gap before jumping off the trail. Anyone out there interested in meeting me and driving me to Newark Airport? There is nothing better to test one of those dangling cardboard air fresheners than to ride with a thru-hiker for 90 minutes!I will down load my latest pictures onto this blog, over that June weekend.I'll see you all up the trail.