Date: 2015-04-09
From: Lost Mountain Shelter

To: Fox Creek
Miles today: 25.3
Weather: overcast clouds

The longest day yet! Started off poorly, because one of the men in the shelter snored like a chainsaw. I left camp about 8am, which was nearly an hour after the Rhode Island Express, Laughtrack and Dopey left. Brightside left after me, but soon caught up. It was warm enough last night that I didn't need my pj bottoms, and it's the same tonight too. The entire day was quite warm, and I was sweating a lot again. I used my new factor 50 sunscreen from breakfast, but I probably sweat it off within 15 minutes. Later in the day, I dipped my bandana into streams and put it around my neck. The first part of the day was a "good hike" which is hiker code for "strenuous climb". First I had to go up White mountain, which was 5 miles of upward climb, with some flatter bits and some much less flatter bits. After that, it was up to Mount Rogers. It's notable for being the highest peak in Virginia. In theory, all of Virginia will be lower from here on. (Just like how the rest of the trail is lower than Clingmans Dome back in the Smokies... Ha.)Mount Rogers was a little difficult because it had so many different trails going through it. There were also many, many streams that confused where the trail was going. I actually got lost and off trail for about half a mile, mostly because I accidentally hit my head on a branch and started walking down a stream. I didn't even notice, because so much of the trail was completely sodden. When I finally got to the shelter at Mt Rogers, I met Axon & Shrugs, as well as Chef and Brightside. I had a quick lunch with them as we enjoyed the views. Then, I headed off to meet the ponies. The ponies were talked about a lot yesterday, and were considered a big highlight.I saw some from a distance, and then some were right on the trail. There were a surprising amount of ponies, and they all seemed relatively friendly but I didn't get too close. I know some of the hikers fed them. Apparently Brightside and Laughtrack both got lick attacks from the ponies who wanted the salt on their skins. For as much as I have changed on this trip, I have not changed enough to allow myself to be licked by wild animals. The Grayson Highlands (where the ponies are) is one of the most beautiful sections of the trail and I definitely recommend it to other hikers- though the rocky parts are not so fun. It has beautiful balds though, and you can see for miles. There were a couple moments where I wondered what country I was in, since the surroundings were so similar to Britain. The Highlands also have a rock passage called Fatman Squeeze which is just a bit narrow and a little bit of fun to go through. After that, the majority of the trail was downhill or mostly flat compared to the earlier climbs. However, there were a lot of rocks of awkward sizes, so it was hellish on my knees and ankles. But at least my feet felt okay! I saw Brightside again at the next shelter (Wise), which I discovered has 2 privies. Compared to Tennessee, this was practically luxurious. From there, it was still 6 miles to the next shelter, which crossed many more streams, with some ups and downs, and a bit of balds. Whilst I was in the forest, the rain started pouring. I thought "oh no, you're not getting me this time" and quickly put on my rain gear. I walked along comfortably for about 10 minutes before the rain stopped and I was boiling in my gear. I had to take it off, I was sweating too much. That was near the top of one of the balds. It was then that I heard the thunder for the first time. Listening to thunder when you're in a building is a very different experience to hearing it when you're standing in a wide open field. It was incredibly loud, I could almost feel it. Each time it rumbled through, my heart stopped a little and I moved a bit quicker. At one point, I saw a white flash of lightning. I was very relieved when I was back in the forest again, though the thunder and lightning continues even now at night. Back in the forest, the trail was completely water logged for large sections. It took me even longer to get to the shelter because I was trying not to get my feet completely soaked. When I was a few minutes from the shelter, the skies opened again. Knowing it had to be near, I started running. Fortunately it was nearby, and I didn't slip on the rocks. Frodo, Chef, Dopey, Brightside and Mowgli (who I met yesterday) were already there. Brightside and I decided to go on once the rain has stopped. We knew that Fresh Ground was only 1 1/2 miles away, and my feet weren't killing me, so off we went. It didn't take us long to reach Fresh Ground, but on the way it rained twice. There was also a funny moment when we came to a broken tree about shoulder height. We had to go underneath of course. Brightside went first, and tried to bend to go under, but got stuck because her pack was too tall, and then fell backwards. She pulled herself up with her sticks as I laughed and wished I had filmed it. I then showed her how to swing underneath with one arm like a monkey. (Note: this only works with big trees that will definitely not move, so use this method at your own discretion).It was raining hard again when we reached Fresh Ground. I ate 5 hot dogs, 2 plates of mac&cheese, and some fries. I also had a cup of tea, 2 cups of koolaid, and coffee/cocoa. Fresh Ground also gave us wine later, to celebrate first our longest day yet, and for passing 500 miles. First, it seems amazing that I can walk 25 miles in a day and not want to die or cut my own legs off. I can still remember way back on day 3 when we had to hike 15 miles over 2 mountains, and I said that doing 20 miles in one day seemed physically impossible. And now 20 miles a day is a standard amount. It even sounds reasonable to do 20 miles a day! (Comparatively, today Laughtrack will do 36 miles. This will beat her previous PCT record of 32 miles.) Second, it is incredible that I have actually managed to walk more than 500 miles of the Appalachian Trail. I know, it's not even a quarter of the way, but 500 miles still seemed so far when I started. Now I am in my tent writing this, feeling warm, cosy and content. I am absolutely full of food, and I had a great time chatting with Fresh Ground. He always has great stories to tell. I hope he will be able to follow and feed the hiker bubble for a bit longer, since I know his donations now are running thin. It remains to be seen whether my tent will be able to withstand the rain tonight, but if not then my micro towel is on standby for emergency mop ups. And, Fresh Grounds car is unlocked in case I need to sleep in there instead.