Date: 2008-10-30
From: Gravel Springs Hut

To: Front Royal
Miles today: 13.7
Weather: clear sky

It was a cold morning, 34 degrees. I ate my breakfast bars, hot tang and chocolate coffee in my sleeping bag, breakfast in bed. But for some reason I got ready to go faster than usual.After I was on the trail a bit the temp was 30. Today I knew I was going to start with a climb. Just the .2 mile from the hut to the trail warmed me up sufficiently for me to take off all fleece. I just went with my 2 shirts and the raincoat and it was just right. Finally I got an apparel selection right.There was some wind, but not a lot, and for a while in the morning, none at all. The sky was blue and Mr Sun was in the sky. Actually, I left the hut while watching the sky turn red before the sun was actually up.There were some nice views from South Marshall and North Marshall. It didn't start to warm up much until I started descending. At higher elevations (over 3,000 ft) the trees were very battered by the wind.   Only the most tenacious leaves were on the trees. Still, there were some pretty spots and a few brignt colors, appreciated all the more in their scarcity.Oak leaves seem the last to fall. Many are still on the trees and some are quite pretty. I have seen Oak leaves that are brown, green, yellow, red and a mix, sometimes in the same leaf. In the sunshine and the breeze they sparkle with a bronze tinge. Interesting. On top of the Marshalls the wind had made drifts of leaves and I was sometime wading through drifts halfway to my knees.I saw a couple deer early in the day. I probably would see more deer but going uphill leaning forward with head down looking where I put my feet I probably miss them. I just happened to look up to catch these two as they darted away. Between the wind and my own noise in the leaves I do not hear them as well as a month ago.The deer here in the East are probably called white tails. I wish I had gotten a picture of their raised tails as they turn to run. They are bigger tails than I would have thought and are almost like bushy white squirrel tails. Very cute.The first people I met, close to noon, were a 3 generation family. The young man had done part of the AT from Connecticut north when he was younger. His trail name was Rolling Bones. They had lots of questions and we chatted a while.I had lunch leaning on a log in a grassy spot in the sun. And in the sun it got up to 70 although the ambient air was never more than 55 all day. It was lovely to have the sun.While eating lunch, Achilles (SOBO thru-hiker) walked by. He had been on the trail 5 months so far. He had to take time for blisters and an ankle injury.I cruised along really nice trail much of the day. I made almost 8 miles before lunch. And then the trail left the Shenandoahs.I surely will miss the usually smoother and well graded trails of the Shenandoahs. Don't get me wrong. There were still mountains to go up and down and it was still work. But those somooth and well graded trails make all the difference in speed and comfort. I even got so I liked and appreciated the stone posts with metal bands on the top embossed with milage and place information. I meant to take a picture of one but I am not sure I did.The contrast between Shenandoah and non Shenandoah trails became immediately evident as the trail went steeply down piles and piles of rocks. I changed from the confident hiker, though aged, to a tottering old lady picking my way down the rocks. Pretty funny actually.The last few miles did have some nice trail though and for one last 3-4 hundred foot climb it was so warm that (you guessed it) I took off my shirts and went up with sports bra. Nice.In the last stretch I passed Tame and Allen and their dog, very long section hikers going from New Jersey to Georgia. And very close to the road I met Hollywood. We talked for a while and he gave me the names and phone numbr of a couple in Front Royal who take in thru-hikers. I may give then a call tomorrow.I did go to my motel as I had a reservation and 3 packages awaiting me there. I had a wonderful shower and walked several blocks to a laundromat. I ate a Dominos medium pizza while my clothes got clean and bought some stuff for breakfast and more cheese at the grocery store before trudging back to my room.Andrew, hikers enjoy all those comforts of running hot water, shower, flush toilets and good beds far more for not having them while hiking.Now I am going to enjoy the bed.