Date: 2014-05-30
From: 501 Shelter

To: Port Clinton, PA
Miles today: 24.1
Weather: clear sky

Unlike yesterday, where we all slept in until almost nine, this morning we were up and at em at six thirty. I'm never one to dilly dally. Never was at home either. When I'm up I'm up and it's time to get busy. I'm usually the first out the door and today is no different. But today, finally no chance of rain. We've had four days and it affects your mood. Today is sunshine. It's also a really long one. Hiking all the way to Port Clinton/Hamburg for resupply. I'm also considering a hotel to get some better sleep. There's a pavilion and park with camping for free but really want a bed. Today Rockslvannia is living up to its name. I see what they mean now. It's not continuous, but is a good few hundred feet of it then a trail you have to pick your way through then flat. Then it starts again. The rocks are all shapes and sizes but rarely do they have something to stand flat on. You have to solely step from pointy point to thin edge. Some rocks look solid but shift under you. Half way through the day your feet start screaming. They hurt everywhere. And all that twisting and turning pulls your shoe all around your feet giving you blisters. Add to that wet socks and disaster. The tops of all my toes are raw right now and I have a big sore on the ball of my right foot. It was just endless. No break. Unless you see ferns. Big fields of ferns means no rocks. A little relief.What was odd though is that I hiked alone almost all day. Generally a slower hiker. I like to stroll. As long as I get there I'm not too concerned with speed. Usually means everyone who left later passes at some point. But not today. And it was a long one. Turns out there was an unmarked swimming hole the others found and hung out for a while. Kind of nice to be alone but tiring. I did run into a huge black snake to keep me company. He was sunning in the middle of the trail. I started getting super tired around four. The rocks were beating me down. I knew that the day was pretty flat until the end then an extremely steep downhill. Started doing my normal complaining - where IS it?! Why didn't they just take the trail that way?! Come on I just want to be done! But then up came some weekend hikers so I knew I was close. They were all clean and happy. Then bam, that downhill just hit. Steep steep path. Not rocky too so it was one where you have to keep your legs constantly flexed and slightly bent, your back upright and leaning back, and your poles holding you upright as you almost run downhill. Or slide. When you step off trail onto pavement it's such a change psychologically. You can take normal steps and you know food is near. I ate a TON today but am starving. My phone is almost dead but I called ahead to the Microtel in Hamburg. They were booked except for a smoking double -$100! Ridiculous! Its also a three mile walk. I heard the north is more expensive and they weren't kidding. Glad it was booked though. Checked back into the guide and there's the Port Clinton Hotel that I'll be walking by and it's $50. So I called and yep they've got a room. Cute little tiny town on a river. It had something important here at some point which they all seem to have but now it's just a quiet town. I get to the hotel and YES this is my kind of place. For one, you check in by walking into the pub. All the locals are here and they're very nice. Lots of use of the word "yous" which I think is equivalent to y'all. Thick accents. Loved. Got checked in by a burly bartender. This is not your typical hotel. There's a $10 key and towel deposit. I'm in room "4". There are two bathrooms that are shared and the bed is one of those super springy, creaky types. Love it. Quickly got settled and took a shower then headed back down to the pub. They had an attached dining room and the whole place was packed. I had to take a window seat. Huge menu. I ordered a half dozen wings with Jack Daniels sauce, a salad, and an open faced Delmonico. When you travel you really have to get away from the typical grilled chicken. Order something local. Makes all the difference. I never order steak. Never. And never eat it at home but this was delicious. And got it with mushrooms. Ate every bite and was still hungry. Then got blueberry cheesecake. This lady was so nice she brought me two pieces! "That one piece wasn't big enough" she said. But it was. I knew she was just being nice and knew I was a hiker. I love it here! After my third beer I was packing it up to go to bed and in walks Goliath, Deep Blue, and Raccoon. Okay one more beer. Was drinking this "summer shandy". Really good. Very lemony. So NOW it's time for bed.