Date: 2008-05-19
From: Campsite mi. 636.2

To: campsite mi. 652.3
Miles today: 16.1

During the night it rained, thundered and lightninged, and got even colder. But I was okay. Not real warm, but warm enough to sleep between rounds of thunder storms. Used the quilt, silk liner, long underwear, wind pants, foam sheet on top of the mat, Micropuff jacket, wool hat and gloves. Had nothing left for a pillow!To our immense relief it dawned clear as could be, but about 38 degrees with a stiff northwest wind. So, it was very beautiful hiking, but colder than we were used to in the past month and a half. Everyone we passed commented on it - they'd finally sent THEIR cold weather clothing home, too!Virtually the same oaky scrub-woods terrain that looked so gloomy in the sleet yesterday looked beautiful - the new green on the leaves fairly radiated, and the vistas off the ridge were lovely.We hiked 16 miles, from the campsite at mile 652.3 to a campsite at 636.2. We passed Baily Gap Shelter and also the stone shelter with no roof, at Pine Swamp Branch - a tree fell on it last year, and I guess it is scheduled for repair. It is a nice looking stone building, which has been rare outside the smokies.By about 2pm it finally warmed up and felt more like May. Our joy was shortlived when we passed a couple of hikers who told us rain, thunder and lightning were predicted for tonight and tomorrow...so we promptly called to reserve a room in Pearisburg for when we arrive tomorrow afternoon. It is amazing how much incentive a warm room can provide when you have to hike 12 miles in the rain!Right now I'm in my tent - the next shelter is just too far away - down off the ridge trail on a woods road, which we hope will be a little more sheltered if it storms hard. It has started to rain a little, but we had time to set up and cook dinner before it started. It isn't as cold as last night, at least yet, and we have the advantage of a dry day behind us, and dry clothes tonight, unlike last night. Bear with me on all this talk about weather - it really affects everything out here so much.The new shoes did well today, even with the high mileage. I did lose my balance once and come down hard on one knee, though, and think it had to do with the new shoes and new pack all together - a new pack, even comfy and well fitted, rides differently. It's also the switching from boots to low shoes, and I think the ankles have to learn not to depend on the boot cuffs for support. I'll give it a couple of weeks and see what happens. But I was mad about this first fall, and in front of my brother-in-law, too - the injustice!The flower scene was modest in numbers, but exhilarating in kinds - a light clear pink trillium just took my breath away. Then some little clumps of white shooting stars made us gape and laugh about their apt name. Then some yellow lady slippers on the roadside, while we were going around a washed out bridge. All very lovely, like tiny presents when you least expect them.The views, the flowers, the birds, the meals, the days off are really only tiny moments in this long hike. Ninety-nine percent of the day we are just walking, walking, walking, walking, walking, walking, walking, walking, walking, walking, walking...