Date: 2008-03-13
From: Wesser Bald Shelter

To: Nantahala Outdoor Center
Miles today: 5.7
Weather: clear sky

The General is usually the first one out of camp with Squire soon behind. Today I walked 150 yards to the spring, treated water, and was astounded upon my return to find everyone else already packed & leaving. I ate a peanut & honey sandwich and was the last one out. We hiked apace downhill into the Nantahala Outdoor Center. It was a gruesome 5 miles downhill that seemed to go on forever: "down, down, down, down," and I was heartbroken when the waitress informed us that the kitchen had just closed for breakfast at 11 o'clock. I begged, "Please," so she asked the cook and brought me a breakfast menu. Pancakes & eggs, my favorites. Riley, a junior at Brown College, hiked out of here this morning, 30 miles to Fontana Dam to meet his mother tomorrow. The Nantahala Outdoor Center services rafters & kayakers, so their gear is not really what hikers need. I was pleased that they exchanged my Superfeet insoles at no charge for a pair that fit. The Superfeet from Walasi-Ye were a quarter inch short, and close examination revealed that my heel blisters formed exactly above the trailing edge of the Superfeet. Rob, the manager, first called Superfeet to confirm that they would give him credit for insoles purchased elsewhere. Afterwards as I walked the mile up the small, twisty highway to a little grocery, "my feet felt fine, terrific." Hard to imagine that a quarter inch short could cause such misery. The little store was "the only show in town," and was priced accordingly - expensive; selection was not very good either. I bought a loaf of bread, peanuts, sunflower seeds and a pound of chocolate chips for gorp, and a 28 oz jar of Jif extra crunchy peanut butter (nothing smaller), most of which I gave to Hearts; he wanted "as much peanut butter as he could get his hands on." This food should last me all the way to Gatlinburg - 5 days away. We all enjoyed a relaxing day by the river including a foot washing; I hope the Second Skin will help my blisters heal. It was fun to watch the kayakers polishing their navigation skills. The highlight of my day was acquisition of a thermal hat, neoprene gloves, socks with toes, a Capilene shirt, and two pints of Ben & Jerrys; all of my discards went into the "hiker box." Lookie the cute picture of Hearts in the afternoon drying his gear on a picnic table. Squire & the General are staying here tonight. I bought dinner at Rivers End Restaurant for all eight hikers, following the tradition of my motorcycling buddies Walt & John, cheap at $108 for incredible amount of gratitude and goodwill, beers included. The waitress recommended a curried chicken dish followed by Blackberry cobbler al la mode. A great meal & phenomenal desert (but I wish I'd asked for two scoops of ice cream al la mode.) Everyone was well pleased with their meal. Starbucks (from Seattle) started in January with a 50 pound pack and isn't having much fun yet, even after pruning 20 pounds from his pack. Most everyone went off to the pub except for Matthew & Hearts & I who went off to camp overnight on a strange little isolated knoll overlooking the valley & rapids with lots of impressive whitewater. The river is probably 80 or 100 feet across at the bridge. One wonders about fog, dew & damp in the morning when camping this close to whitewater.