Date: 2010-07-31
From: Madison Spring hut

To: Pinkham Notch
Miles today: 8.0
Weather: fog

Another good night's sleep and it was nice not to be cold. I slept with earplugs all night in case anyone snored. If they did, they didn't keep me up. Breakfast was a bit lighter than the other hut but the porridge was better cooked. I hurried out the door at 730am to get up the hills. I thought if I could make it to Pinkham Notch in 4 hours (8 miles away), I'd be able to make 21 miles to Imp campsite. Otherwise I'd planned to go to Carter hut. It is Saturday though so I wasn't sure if they'd have room for me. It could be work for stay. Unlike other places on the AT, you can't stealth camp in the mountains very well. The first mile down from Madison hut took me an hour! I had to jump from boulder to boulder which took time because it was downhill and I didn't want to risk a sprain. I realised I'd never make it to Pinkham on time so I changed my plan. The 21 mile day I did was taking its toll on me. My entire body felt exhausted. Not in the same way that a flat long day makes you feel however. Hiking through the Whites consists of sometimes putting away your poles to reach high on a boulder to grip an edge then to pull your body (including your backpack) up until your foot finds a hold. This can obviously be quite precarious. Then downhill, you might need to take your chance and slide down rock slabs on your bum. Constantly you are afraid to fall so you need full mental concentration. On the summits, the wind blows strongly making it sometimes hard to aim correctly where your foot will land and your pack can be shifted from side to side on your back. None of this is a complaint, I find it exhilarating and athletic to be hiking here. However it feels slightly more like rock climbing than hiking so is much more draining on your body. The Presidentials are the part of the Whites I have been hiking for the last couple of days. They are amazing. All open ridges with views and hiking through the clouds. I wish I had spent longer here. Skipped more of the boring bits! As I hiked down, I saw quite a few Weekend Warriors (name for weekend hikers). One group of tough looking guys told me the trail further down was gnarly. I smiled internally not sure where it was a Weekend Warrior assessment or a thru hiker one. Turns out it was not bad. If only they had seen other parts of the trail in the Presidentials! I arrived at the Washington Auto Road around 1130. This road was built to accommodate car tourists wanting to drive up to the top of Mt Washington. I sat down for a snack break and spoke to a family. They were fascinated with my hike and I felt like a star with all the questions they asked me about food, resupply, animals, accommodation. They had been out driving around looking for moose last night, unsuccessfully. They offered me gatorade, snacks and water but I said I was ok. What's wrong with me, refusing supplies! I told them I was headed to Pinkham Notch Visitor Centre. Then they said "don't worry, it's only 2 miles". I thought "guys, you've not walked anywhere, I'm tired!". Anyway, the walk down was very pleasant, down Old Jackson Road, crossing the Peabody River. Upon arrival I found there was a bus to Gorham, a town close by. I decided to go there. I picked up a book called "Not Without Peril" by Nicolas Howe about accounts of dangerous situations, most leading to death, near Mt Washington. I checked into a hotel and decided to zero tomorrow (and skip the last day of the Whites) to rest my weary limbs and read my book.