Date: 2003-05-27
From: Hightop Hut

To: Big Meadows Lodge
Miles today: 20.4

The early risers woke me, and - what the heck - I got up and packed and stood atop Hightop summit by 6:30 am. Misty up there - no view.I leapfrogged with Commander in Chief, Itchy Foot and Just Do It the whole grey, damp morning. We keep a similar pace, though Just Do It is a very fast hiker when he chooses to stride out. It spits a little rain at us, and once again, there are no views. Can I walk the entire Shenandoahs and never have a vista?Around lunch, we bypassed Bearfence Hut; the path was steeply downhill. Commander in Chief had been ahead of us, and we learned she's gone down there from another hiker.So the three of us grabbed a quick lunch standing under a tree, and it was a good thing, too. Right after we ate it began to rain in earnest. It's just a mess trying to eat when it's raining; you just hate to open your pack to the heavy weather.Commander in Chief had the last laugh - behind us, she spied a bear by the Pocosin Cabin. She was plugging along, watching her footing, when she heard a bark and a snort. The youngster was startled in the act of scraping under a blowdown. She looked up "to see his little bum high-tailing it out of there." My kind of bear. Southbound.Just Do It also saw a newborn, speckled fawn. He reported he's counted 29 deer sightings on the Trail today. I've stopped taking pictures of them, though they are still lovely to see.The animals were the highlight of what was otherwise a day to endure, however. I wish I could convey some of that AT magic, but the truth is today I just had my head down slugging it out, and none too happily, either. No, not a happy camper, not at all. I envied the nearby Skyline drivers in their warm, DRY cars. I wanted a car. I wanted dry feet. I wanted heat.The rain was soaking through my old Provent rain coat. It's been a great coat, and has weathered some heavy storms. But it's worn out now, like its foot-weary mistress. The cold wetness slides down my neck and shoulder blades, chilling my back. It soaks coldly though the sleeves. This soggy, miserable weather just sucks the joy out of you. I like walking in the rainy woods as much as anyone, but cold/wet day after day after day? This is worse than March.Our original plan had been to walk 24 miles to Rock Spring Hut, with a stop at Big Meadows Wayside for a hot late afternoon meal. We would then walk the remaining five miles and sleep for free, rather than stay at the pricey Big Meadows Lodge.That was then. This is now.Temps at our elevation were in the upper forties. I was soaked, shivering hard, and having trouble working my fingers. I was losing fine motor control. I was worried about hypothermia, but all I could do was keep walking. It was going to be mighty hard to get warm and dry in a hut tonite. And in the morning, wet shoes, wet socks and wet clothes to put on...At some point, the same thought occurred to all four of us, spontaneously: Get a room at the Lodge. Pay the price. Any price...Four miles out, I was wondering how I would possibly make it. I was shivering, my shoes and socks were utterly soaked. Each step in Lake AT caused wet, muddy water to come squishing up between my bootlaces. The ground was flat, and I wasn't generating enough heat walking.Luckily, Commander in Chief and Itchy Feet were walking with me, and eventually the icy sky water slowed down to a patter. A hill rose up to warm me. Imagine, me being glad about going uphill. I warmed up enough, and their conversation gave comfort. I knew everyone was looking out for each other at this point, instead of hiking their own hike. Commander in Chief fed me half a candy bar, and when Itchy Foot slipped and went down, she went back to him. Their company made it doable, and I thank them.Just Do It was waiting at the turnoff to the Lodge, and we all climbed up there together. In the lobby, check-in was interminable. I know we were dripping a bit on the stone floor, and probably smelled. We were cooling down fast and shivering.Hungry too. Itchy Feet hit up the peppermint basket, removing four; Commander in Chief took one. These were cheap, 99-cents a bag candies. A lady in a jacket behind the counter removed the basket and put it behind the desk, without a word. "She was kind of snotty about it," said Itchy Feet.When, waiting still, we stood beside the lobby heater, which was near the gum, the lady bustled right over and hovered, keeping an eye on our scruffy lot. Clearly, we alarmed her. Save the peppermints, here come those nasty, hungry hikers...Itchy Feet is a retired banker. He was chapped at the suspicion heaped upon us at the front desk, based on our appearance. He used to be clean-cut, straight-arrow, wear a tie for 40 years. Like most men on the AT, he now looks like a sea captain or a mountain man, with a white beard and unruly hair. "A banker has the respect of the community," he said, unused to the slight.Clyde, my Long Trail partner, had the same experience, being a respectable, clean-shaven member of society, then treated like a bum while hiking. It's an eye-opener. We never really know who we are talking to, do we?A cold, clammy trudge to our room, then halleluiah! Hot water! Towels! We strung a clothesline across the length of our $90 room. Bandanas, socks and underwear hung drying.We dress for supper at the Lodge. What to wear, what to wear? How about basic black? Always in style. Ha!"Does this make me look fat?" I play-fret, modeling my fleece pants and zip-tee.We go down for some chili, then up to the main dining room for real food. The company is excellent. We eat too much: steak and mushrooms, green beans, baked potato (with sour cream of course!), a killer blackberry cobbler ala mode.We eat until it hurts.My belly remains pooched out two hours later. I think I need my stomach pumped.As I am writing, this, the sun has peeped out. There is actually a sort of sunset between two layers of clouds. We all go out on the deck to look at it and marvel.You can see why people worshipped the sun in earlier times. I'm about to get down on my knees here myself.We sleep with the balcony door open. On the bed in our sleeping bags. The rain pitters down.