Date: 2015-09-10
From: ME 4, Rangely ME

To: Perham Stream/logging road
Miles today: 15.3
Weather: moderate rain

I made arrangements for an early shuttle back out to the trailhead to continue my slack packing. I wanted to get an early start up Saddleback Mtn. The plan was to hike at least to Saddleback Mt. At the summit, 4120 feet above sealevel, a 2.0 mile side trail to a ski lodge would take me to a pick up location. But that would make for a short day and waste 2 non-AT miles today plus 2 non-AT miles tomorrow to get back on the AT. An alternative was to hike 15.3 miles to a logging road at Perham stream plus 1 non-AT mile to a pick up location.As usual, I did not know for certain how challenging the terrain would be. Maps and the AT guide provide only basic information about distances and elevations. They do not tell me how steep, rocky, or treacherous the trail is, or whether there are rebar holds, steps, or ladders. Asking people about the trail always has to be taken with a grain of salt because their opinions are based upon their personal perspective, experience level, and level of conditioning.Rain was predicted for late afternoon. If I hike all the mileage I will be on an exposed ridge above treeline for about 3 miles. So weather was my primary concern.The initial approach up the mountain was very easy and I made good time. Before I knew it I was at Piazza Rock Len-to. (For some reason the shelters in Maine are officially called lean-tos.) I passed Ethel Pond and Eddy Pond, but had no luck finding any moose.Then the trail became steeper, and there was rebar, but it was not really necessary. I continued to climb, expecting the trail to become treacherous, but it never happened. It was steep, but not anything I would now consider difficult or dangerous. I reached the summit and the turnoff for the side trail at about 11 a.m. The sky remained cloudy but the wind never picked up and the temperature was increasing, all good weather signs. I also talked with several southbound hikers about the trail up ahead. All but one told me the trail was just as easy going down the other side. I decided to do all 15.3 miles and called to let my shuttle driver know.The only person who said the trail ahead was difficult was a young man in his 20's. As we passed one another we both said hello. As I customarily do, I also asked how he was doing. To my surprise he said he was not doing so well and that he had been crying most of the day. WOW, I have heard a lot of things out here, but that was a new one and, I have to admit, I was not sure how to respond.I asked him what was going on, and he claimed he had fallen several times, but denied any injuries. He then started rambling about how hard specific sections of the trail had been (sections that I would soon be facing as I headed north). He also mentioned that he had recently seen his parents. He is a flip flopper. He hiked Springer to Harper's Ferry, then flip flopped to Katahdin where his parents met him. Now he is hiking south to Harper's Ferry. The more I talked to him the more it appeared he was just mentally and physically exhausted. His mother apparently is proud of his efforts and told him she was sure he would finish the entire trail. I suspect in his current state he was not so sure he would actually finish, but he did not want to disappoint his mother after she had expressed such faith in him. The poor kid was feeling pressure on top of the exhaustion.We spoke for several minutes. I strongly suggested that he go into town for a break, sleep in a real bed, get a hot shower, and eat a warm meal. He said he was headed to town. I think he just needed someone to talk to, and I am glad I could be there for him.It is easy to think about quiting the AT when things are tough. But as a wise woman I met at the legendary Doyle Hotel in Duncannon, PA told me, you will regret quiting - maybe not right away, but you will eventually regret quiting. Many people have told me to never decide to quit on a bad day. Instead, wait until a good day. Better yet, take a zero, get a good nite's sleep, a hot shower, and a warm meal, then decide.So far, as in life in general, I have had many great times and many tough times. I have had wonderful experiences for which I am extremely grateful. And I have had experiences where I had to dig deep within myself in order to move forward. Fortunately, so far, I still have not considered quiting. But I could certainly relate to the young man's feelings of complete exhaustion.I tried to enjoy my time and the views while above treeline, but my concerns about the weather kept me moving. I was relieved when I reached the last peak on the ridge, Saddleback Junior at 3655 feet, and was finally headed back below treeline. The descent immediately below the peak was steep but manageable.At 4 p.m. I stopped for a brief break at the Poplar Ridge shelter. Because cell coverage is spotty at lowet elevations, I also had to call my shuttle driver to provide an ETA at the pick up point, which was about 5.5 miles away. This was no easy task because I had no idea what type of terrain I was facing.Just as I finished the call I felt the first rain drop and I immediately began to wonder if I had made a big mistake doing all 15.3 miles. It continued to very lightly rain for the rest of my hike. Fortunately the thick tree canopy kept both me and the trail relatively dry. I was also fortunate because the trail was relatively easy and I made good time.The AT guide mentioned fording the Orbeton. stream, but the water level was low enough I could rock hop across. I crossed over Woods road and began looking for a logging road about 1/2 mile further north. When I reach the road I was told to look for a broken down bridge to the left, which would confirm I was on the correct road. Then I was to turn right and walk 1 mile on that road to a parking area where I would be picked up.It was starting to get dark as I reached the second road. I saw what appeared to be an old broken wooden bridge to the left, so I turned right and started walking on the road. I took out my headlamp and turned it on so my shuttle driver could see me coming since I was running just a little late.As I walked on the road I kept track of the time in order to estimate when I would reach 1 mile and the trail parking area. I followed the instructions, but as it became dark I began to wonder whether I was on the correct road. What if I was on the wrong road?Shane and Stacy, owners of the Farmhouse Hostel and the Stratton Motel, were waiting at the parking area to pick me up. It was about an hour's drive to get back to the hostel. During the drive they told me about the lady who disappeared from the AT in 2013, and who was last seen on the same section of trail I just covered. To this day neither her body nor her pack have been found despite extensive searches. The AT is calling. Rain is coming. I am glad I am safe and sleeping indoors tonight.