Date: 2008-03-13
From: 1 mile past Hot Springs, NC

To: near Log Cabin Dr.
Miles today: 15.4

Woke up several times to the sound of trains passing through Hot Springs. I didn't mind though because I took this to mean that the town still had a pulse. From our ridgetop view I noticed what looked like a factory by the river. It seems to still be running, which is quite shocking. Amanda may have already included this, but in case she didn't, Hot Springs is a great little town. It is great for many reasons, but the one that stands out the most in my mind is it's not being commercialized. Instead of McDonalds, Lowes, and REI you have the Smoky Mountain Diner, Gentry's Hardware, and Bluff Mountain Outfitters. I hope the town never loses this.Hearing the trains all last night also made me think of the really cool experience I had yesterday while leaving town. The trail took us up the side of a ridge next to the river. About halfway up was a rock outcropping with a spectacular view of the town below. When I was young I remember seeing a PBS special on people who would set up entire model cities in their basement. I was even more fascinated with these model cities which would include little people, trees, buildings, cars, moving trains with steam puffing from the chimney. They would have snow-covered mountains with tunnels for the trains and intersections with stoplights and crosswalks. They never "finished" their little creation. They simply continued to add and change. As I looked down from this rock I thought of these model cities. I could see the school with the buses parked out front. I could see the stoplights and the crosswalks. I saw the train track running along the river, crossing over the main street, curving back through the town, and winding off into the distant mountains. It felt as if I could reach out and play with this little model town before me. Just then, as I stood there on the rock, I heard the faint sound of a train whistle echoing through the mountains. Winding down the mountain way off in the distance was the very bright light of a locomotive hauling at least 50 cargo cars of various shapes and colors. It began to slow as it entered the town. The lights at the crossing began flashing, the gates dropped and the little cars came to a stop. The train crept through the town, bringing everything to a standstill. It soon moved on along the river and vanished down the valley. The town came back to life. I stood there, half expecting to see the same train loop around and the whole thing repeat as it always did in those little model towns, but it never did. I apologize if I bore you with such simple things and simple memories, but that's what hiking this trail is about. The simple.The only exciting thing that happened today was more trail magic. Near the end of the day, we descended down into Allen Gap to find a sign which read:Long Distance Section Hikers and Thru-hikersTrail Magic: All you can eat waffles, BBQ, chili, desserts, cold and warm drinks.This was followed by directions to the couple's home. Having been craving waffles for the past 50 miles, I couldn't resist the opportunity. We soon found ourselves in front of a beautiful cabin style home and were greeted at the door by Fal and Hercules, who had thru-hiked back in '99. They led us to the kitchen (the most beautiful I had ever been in) and asked us what we wanted to eat/drink. I had two waffles and half a BBQ and slaw sandwich, as well as a fancy layered ice cream cake-like dessert. Amanda had a waffle, the other half of the BBQ sandwich, and an ice cream sundae with fudge brownie. The couple was so generous and friendly. After we ate, they sat down with us and said they wanted to take the conversation to a deeper topic. Amanda and I looked at each other, confused. Hercules then asked us what our definition of "gentleman" was. Then he asked us for our definition of "tolerance." Amanda and I were completely baffled. Finally they asked us about "absolute truths." It turns out that Hercules and Fal are devout christians who like to offer religious books to hikers as well as offer religious guidance. There is certainly nothing wrong with this, but if you would be uncomfortable in such a situation you may want to avoid this trail magic spot near Allen Gap.After the great food, we headed back to the trail, hiked a few miles farther, and set up the tent.-Josh