Date: 2004-07-20
From: Pinkham Notch Visitor's Center

To: Lake of the Clouds Hut
Miles today: 14.8
Weather: mist

We got a late start and had trouble catching a ride until a couple of super nice people picked us up. (That has to be considered trail magic also.) The weather was better than yesterday (at least it's not raining). A ceiling about 3500 feet kept us from getting a good view of the Presidential's. But the weather changes quickly in the mountains. The trail up Madison was nciely graded for the first 5 miles, crossing a small suspension bridge over the Peabody River. Cool!!! Just below tree line we got hit by a bad t-storm with heavy rain. We just waited it out under our umbrellas for 1.5 hours and were even able to keep our shoes dry. Aussie Charm and her friend were caught above treeline and the guy felt a surge go through him and saw a spark fly from his treking pole to the ground. SCARRY! After the rain we found ourselves above treeline rock hopping/bouldering on nice sticky rock right up Mt Madison. Great fun! It is breathtaking being above treeline even when the clouds eventually block the views. Madison Hut was cute but they were cleaning up after a massive AMC Croo party th enite before. They had nothing for lunch. The smell of liquor, beer, and vomit permeated the inside of the hut. We continued to Mt. Washington. It was almost like a Roman chariot path with rocks fit in almost perfectly making a relatively smooth pathway with small cairns standing sentry along the way. The cairns were topped with large white quartz rocks (instead of the white blaze - clever). Near the top of Mt. Washington the clouds moved in and we hiked blindly, using the Cog Train whistle for reference. The summit was strange with huge buildings and antennas all over. We were expecting something more pristine. Though, we could barely see them in the wind and fog. We were expecting something a bit more pristine. We met a hiking enthusiast Bill and his nephew from near Toledo, OH. They were kind, took our pictures and wished us luck - thanks!) We went into the visitor's center and since it was the end of the day we were given a large pizza that was under the warmer (trail magic). We are blessed beyond belief each wonderful day. We sat there eating our pizza and watching the cog train and then made a phone call to Moccasin to check-in. We had limited views from the summit as clouds constantly blew in. We headed on to the Lake of the Clouds Hut. As we came out of the clouds the hut revealed itself and we just soaked in all that beauty (definitely candy for the eyes). Even a poet would have difficulty portraying the beauty up here and the feelings it gives you so, with my very limited vocabulary I am not even going to try. You just have to get up here! The Hut is huge and sleeps 90 guests and it was full. The Whites are strange in that there are very few spots where you are permitted to camp (especially, for free) unless you are willing to drop below tree-line. AMC controls everything up here. The hut system, from what I have learned, is more for weekenders or short section hikers. They definately don't cater to thru-hikers but do seem to tolerate us. I guess it's all about money. Many people hike from hut to hut with just day packs. The huts, from what we have seen so far are grand buildings in an awesome setting. They are not, however, hotels. You basically pay $75/person for a bunk in a bunk room and dinner/breakfast. There is no hot water in the bathrooms nor showers nor are you even allowed to "clean-up". An environmental nightmare I guess. You get no knapkins with your meals nor towels to use. Everything must be carried up and down by pack so trash is kept to a minimum. In fact, there are no trash cans so you are not even tempted to toss anything in them. David and his friend Cotton were there and they were spoiling themselves as paying customers. It was great seeing them again. We made a deal with the croo to "work for stay". The deal is only available to thru-hikers. They questioned whether we were "really" thru-hikers because we looked "too clean and fresh". Anyway, this entitled us to a place to sleep and some leftovers if there were any. We had to wait until all the paying "customers" ate and the dishes were done so that we could eat with the croo. Hammock Hanger (NOBO) also doing "work for stay", did the afternoon dishes so she was free to leave as early as she wished. The food was good but we felt like moochers (not having worked yet). We were told we would have to sweep up after b-fast. I swept up a bit after dinner hoping to get out on the trail sooner. We waited until 9:30pm (lights out) and picked a table for a bed and fell asleep. We both would rather be out here in the dining room than cooped up in a bunkroom full of snorers!