Date: 2006-06-04
From: Elkwallow Gap

To: Tom Floyd Wayside
Miles today: 16.2
Weather: scattered clouds

FOr a while now I haven't been seeing too many people on the trail. The numbers picked up through the Shenandoahs. Today starting at breakfast a larger wave came up behind me. Last night I camped just before Elkwallow Wayside where I planned to meet Betty along with Pumpkin for breakfast. They were back in Press Mtn. Hut. There were about 15 others there with them. The shelters in the Shenandoahs are few and far between. Unless you sleep in the wood like I did for most of the hikes you share shelters with lots of people.I had a lazy start and waited at the Wayside for Betty. I haven't stopped at all the service areas in the park just here, 2 lodges and a campground. There are more Waysides throughout set up to catch all the car traffic. Hikers are secondary customers. Prices reflect what the tourist trade is willing to pay. After seeing the menu I bought only a cup of coffee and ate from my food bag. I'd already had a couple bowls of cereal just to curb my appetite before I met the others. My budget gets tighter and tighter after buying new poles and new boots. My goal of less than $100 per week was completely blown. Now that I'm almost out of the south everything will be much more expensive. There will be fewer hostels and I won't stay in a motel room with less than 3 people. Town stops will not be town stays. I'm skipping Front Royal tomorrow and stopping in Linden, a town with just a post office and a general store. Front Royal is a standard hiker stop with more conveiniences and more to buy. I need to me disciplined, stop in smaller towns, and only camp or stay in shelters. I also need to pick up my pace and town skipping will help me do that too.Except for Betty and Pumpkin I saw all new faces today, most of them April starters. I don't want to play the head game of feeling left behind anymore but I'm meeting my 3rd block of trail hikers.That said, the mix and order of people on the trail has changed. The fast winter starters are far ahead. The fast spring starters are catching up. Trail days mixed the order and the pack is thinning as we get farther north. We all hear that 50% drop out by Harper's Ferry. Hard to confirm that statistic but our numbers are decreasing.Decreasing numbers or not a big crown left Shenandoah National Park today. I haven't seen this many people at a shelter since Georgia. Nice group of people though.today's hike was fine. The big event for me was exiting the park. It was nice but definitely designed for car, not foot traffic. You were never out of earshot of the road and crossed it repeatedly. We drove through here in a camper when I was in 3rd or 4th grade. I remember seeing more views from the mountains. I also remember seeing backpackers disappearing into the woods. I thought they were exotic and adventurous and lucky. Now on the other side of the car window I don't feel very exotic and maybe a little adventurous but I do feel damn lucky. I'm on the same trails now that were so mysterious then. They're pretty tame but a hell of a lot better than what the road has to offer.Besides the bears, that's what I'll remember most about the Shenandoahs, teh coming together of very different lifestyles, the car people, the foot people. It's not fair to judge. We all have to live our own lives, but I'm glad I sold my car.I put in most of my miles with Betty today. We hooked up with Skunk along the way. We met up with her while taking a lunch break. She walked starry-eyed out of the woods just having seen her first bear. I knew just how she felt after my encounter a few days back. I've seen three. Most people report between 3 and 5. Post card says 7. And poor Betty hasn't seen any.Skunk, Betty and I cruised for a while. I hit a hiker's high that held on before and after we took a 2nd break.On break we sat and talked by the road and watched people go by. Bicycles always wave. Motorcycles usually do. Cars wave sometimes. We had fun watching and commenting. Betty's done it all from Harley to motorhome. Skunk's as cheerful as Betty. We were all in good company.Eventually I had to slow down and let them fly on. Even though my boots are great for my ankles, they're two small now and are causing blisters. I'll nurse the blisters and get along to Harper's Ferry where new boots are waiting.Lots of peop here when I got to the shelter, most of the same faces I'd seen at breakfast. Betty is the only one I'd met before today. She's getting off trail tomorrow for an overnight in Front Royal. I hate to say good bye again but we'll reunite again. As long as blisters don't hold me back, this group looks like good company.