Date: 2016-04-11
From: Bald Mountain Shelter

To: Erwin, TN Rob Bird's Apartment
Miles today: 17.1
Weather: broken clouds

Wow. Just wow. The kindness of some people is overwhelming. Let me back up. Today began as they all do. Cold and with great sluggishness. Just Tyler, Stitch, and I grouped up today and hiked together for morale. And it made a huge difference. It's a great way to get to knwo someone while you are distracted from the pain. We had a great time as the sun came out and matched our moods. At one point we were talking about birthdays, and how, to Tyler and myself, they have lost significance. But Stitch said, "not for me, I want a song. I want a cake!" This ties into the story later.So we all make it into Spivey Gap and decide to have our lunch there. We all finish up and are about to head up the trail on a big uphill. Then a white van with a Casper the friendly ghost decal comes down the road and pulls in. His van says "AT friendly van!" An older gentleman gets out and waves us down. We knew it was trail magic. We got cold sodas and chocolate. His name is Rob Bird and he used to run a hostel in Massachusetts called The Birdcage. All of its services were free. He never charged a dime. He then told us that he has an apartment down near Erwin and that he still takes in a few hikers from time to time. He just has to "look them in the eyes and see them smile a bit first." Funny, because we were scoping out the van situation with similar discerning eyes. He tells us to call him from the No Business Shelter, which is about halfway to our entry point to Erwin. So we all hike up very eagerly, pass Pop Tart, Gunga Dan, Spongebob and Orange Pacer. At the No Business Shelter (it did not have a privy, as the name may imply), we call him. Then we meet our first southbounder, Rockman. What an inspiration. He is finishing his hike from last year. He has broken a leg, a foot, and dealt with a parasite from swimming in a pond. He was still determined. Go get 'em Rockman!So anyway we roll into River Rd, our Erwin entry point. I hop into Uncle Johnny's for a new pad, a stamp, and gatorades for Tyler and Stitch. I met Johnny - cool guy. When I go back out I notice the line I hung my crocs off of is limp. No crocs. Ha! Now I've lost 3. Great job, me! But it's okay, we cross the Nolichucky river by way of bridge and get into a stranger's van that doesn't have real seats in the back, but a folding metal chair and a camp chair. And it was the best move any hiker made on this day, in all of the US. Rob took us back to his apartment, which is half native-American decor, half hiker memorabilia and pictures. He has albums of everyone who stayed with him all the way back to 2002. These are going to go to the AT Museum in Pine Grove, and now I'll be in them. He gave me crocs (I'll lose 'em but thanks), let us do laundry, take showers, gave me qtips and gave me a little moonshine, let us charge devices, took us to an amazing Chinese buffet (I had 3 plates and ice cream), took us to resupply and is letting us stay for as long as we like. It's his birthday, so Stitch bought him (and the rest of us) dinner. He already had a blizzard cake in his freezer, but when we got back we sang Happy Birthday to him. All night he was getting calls and texts from former thru hikers who just adore Rob and his unparalleled kindness. Some people just are this good for the sake of being good. Here are some good Rob quotes: "Don't say clean. Say washed." "Brevity is the soul of wit." And here is what it says above his doorframe: "Don't be sad that it's over, smile because it happened." Beautiful. I am overwhelmed by his kindness and his story, and I am glad to have met him. Such lucky timing in our journey, and such a boost to my spirit and faith in humanity. We will never have trail magic this incredible again. Rob, you are the definition of trail angel. Thank you. P.S. I soaked my fee in Epsom salts and it was glorious.