Date: 2020-07-27
From: Blackburn AT Center

To: Rocky Run Shelter
Miles today: 27.9

It was a steep climb back to the ridge from Blackburn, and then six rocky but relatively level miles to Keys Gap. There I walked down the road to a convenience store and ate under a tree by a pond full of blooming lily pads. There's a stretch from New Jersey to Massachusetts called the "deli run" because it's studded with dining options within walking distance of the trail. I would argue the deli run actually begins in Shenandoah with the waysides, and runs through northern Virginia, southern Pennsylvania and eastern Pennsylvania. Maryland is a dry spell, though even it offers options to the motivated hiker. In any case, I expect to eat well for the next six hundred miles.My plan today was to walk another six miles into Harpers Ferry, catch the bus to the Charles Town Walmart, and finally get some new shorts. As well as resupply to get me into Pennsylvania.Over the course of the day I scared up a number of skittish young deer. They dash off at full speed like they haven't fine-tuned their flight instinct. A couple of weeks ago they were still spotted fawns clinging to mama. Now they are independent. I'm watching them grow up.A few miles past Keys Gap I finally left Virginia - four weeks after entering it - and entered West Virginia. Four states done! This is the exact spot where I began my section hikes several years ago. I remember the excitement and anticipation as I tented on the border, preparing to head into Maryland the next day. Actually, I was attempting the Four State Challenge that first day, and came up a few miles short thanks to rain, a delay in town, and of course the colossal stupidity of attempting 44 miles on my first day. The trail has taught me a lot about myself. And while I still have those impulses, I understand them much better and sometimes even make wise decisions.People in lifejackets were wading across the Shenandoah River as I crossed the bridge into town. They would walk along the bedrock islands where they could and swim through the gaps. It's a massive river. Especially compared to all the creeks and streams I regularly step across. I have a much greater appreciation for bridges now. And the challenges that explorers and armies faced without them.I took the side trail to the ATC but it was closed. So I got my own picture in front of their iconic wall in barbaric Yawping stance. This is the psychological halfway point. If it doesn't call for a Yawp I don't know what does. I'm out of endless Virginia and into the mid-Atlantic states. Soon I will stop counting up the miles and start counting DOWN.I reached the historic quarter well before 2, but somehow I missed the bus to Walmart. The area is so small and streets so narrow there's no way a bus could come through without everyone noticing. I called the dispatcher when it was well past two and she assured me the bus had gone through. If so, it must have been fifteen minutes early. The next wasn't due for two hours, which would make it necessary to overnight in the area. So my plan to resupply and find shorts at Walmart was dashed. That'll teach me to rely on public transportation.Well, best-laid plans of mice and men will soon go awry, as they say. So I improvised. New plan: grab a light resupply at the small outfitter in the historic quarter. There is nothing else in walking distance. Hike to Fayetteville - 60 miles away - in two days, stay at the hostel and resupply there.So I bought a jar of peanut butter and odds and ends from the extremely limited selection at the outfitter, and marched over the Potomac bridge. On the river below people were tubing and rafting. One guy rested in a tube on a shady bank, with a raft next to him holding a cooler. That's the way to travel! As I followed the river on the C&O canal many groups were beached on bedrock outcroppings in the middle of the river and soaking up the sun.I was so motivated hiking into a new state I pushed another fifteen miles even though it was nearly four when I left Harpers. Climbed Weverton Cliffs for another great view of the river. Saw a sleeping bag abandoned by the trail. This is I believe the fifth one I've seen in my hikes. Still mystified how someone leaves that behind. Like all the others, it was far from any road, shelter, or campsite. So many rocks today. I got upset at the slow going up and down Lambs Knoll late in the evening. Had to break out the headlight to navigate the last fifteen minutes to the shelter.At Rocky Run Shelter several water bottles and bags were on the picnic table but no one was in the shelter. Probably tenters up on the ridge. The shelter has two sleeping platforms, a deck, and a huge porch roof. Made myself at home in the darkness. It's very warm tonight. If not for the occasional bugs I would have left the liner off as well as the sleeping bag.