Date: 2004-07-01
From: Hertlein Campsite

To: Windsor Furnace Shelter
Miles today: 24.2
Weather: scattered clouds

Buick and I hiked together today. We were probably both thinking safety in numbers. It galled me that my mind kept slipping back to my brief encounters with this smoker guy. I kept reviewing that initial exchange to try to discover what I had said that got him so determined or how I might have said it differently. There was nothing I could figure and Buick confirmed it which was helpful. He had been a witness to the initial encounter and for that, I was grateful. We must have been deep in conversation much of the day because the first picture wasn't until after 1pm at Auburn Lookout. This was about 16 miles into the day. About an hour later we reached Port Clinton, Pa.Descending out of the woods at Port Clinton revealed a scene not unlike those of so many model railroads. The old train station and the trains on their sidings were a perfect picture. Port Clinton itself was a bit less than satisfying. It seemed a bit desolate. We found our way to an outfitter on the second floor of an old building. Buick was in search of a new water bladder. His old one had finally given up. We then stopped by the post office so Buick could take care of some business. Then we hung our thumbs out on the incredibly busy 2 lane PA route 16 or was it 61 which was a block up from the main street. Even if someone wanted to pick us up it was hard to see how they could in this traffic. There were a number of cars pulling out of the little town that had to stop beside us and wait for a chance to break into the traffic but they didn't offer us a ride. It was a long time but finally someone stopped and we got in.We got dropped off at a shopping center in Hamburg with a Food Lion Supermarket and a pizza joint. Across the highway there was a new giant Cabelas super box store. We had some pizza and then did our shopping.We were repacking outside the store when a woman offered us a ride. She would be back after she picked up a few things but she couldn't wait for us. We had to hustle but I managed to get packed with just enough time to get some Ben and Jerrie's. She had a small car and an interesting story. She had hiked the AT 25 years ago. She had become a writer. She wrote a book about her adventures on the AT called "A Woman's Journey (Official Guides to the Appalachian Trail)". She has written for the Boy Scouts among others. She has hiked some 500 miles of the Continental Divide Trail with her young children and lamas. She was definitely a kindred spirit. She gave me a business card.The Smoker, part 4:She was about to drop us off back in Port Clinton when who should we see but our nemesis, Smoker, walking up the street. I felt like a little kid. We both ducked and I'm sure the expressions on our faces told our escort all she needed to know. She immediately offered to drop us a half mile up the road where the trail reenters the woods. We thanked her profusely. It was all very silly but who needed the hassle of confronting this joker again. She seemed to understand perfectly and we said our farewells.We hiked the remaining 5 or 6 miles to Windsor Furnace Shelter making for a 24.4 mile day. This was a town day to boot.