Date: 2016-04-03
From: Jenny Knob Shelter

To: Sugar Run Gap - Woods Hole Hostel
Miles today: 21.7
Weather: overcast clouds

Wow. Last night's wind gusts were strong. Fresh Ground was in his hammock and thought a couple of times that his stakes would be uprooted. With the morning temperature of 28 degrees, our fingers became numb real fast as we quickly packed up to hike to get warm. Even then we didn't warm up until the first climb of the day. Our pace during the first 2 hours this morning was 3 miles per hour. That's what Subman calls a "thru-hiker" pace. A very fast pace for me and all the more a faster pace in that it was done on a descent climb followed by a long ridge line walk that required specific foot placement because of the continual stepping between rocks and boulders.Or maybe it was this morning's motivation - Trent's Grocery - where hot breakfast and desired drinks were eagerly anticipated. Trent's Grocery delivered. We all left there happy and full. Happier, in part, because Who-Dat joined us. Who-Dat became separated from us a day or so ago but he night hiked to Trent's Grocery, arriving there after 2:00 a.m. and hiking for 45 miles. Don't know how he does that except that he is extremely tough mentally and physically. Who-Dat was sore though so he put a bag of ice on his shins as we left Trent's, knowing that he'd hike and catch up to us by this day's end. Our elevation and weather changed within an hour after leaving Trent's. The terrain was flat, dirt trail and we were no longer fighting the gusty winds. Layers of clothing came off so that we wouldn't be dripping in sweat. Dismal Falls was the second side-trip of the day, a .3 blue-blaze trail (Trent's Grocery was 1 mile off trail round trip and worth every step.) Dismal Falls was gorgeous and provided opportunities to enjoy the falling water from above and below. Too bad the water was so cold because Dismal Falls clearly has swimming opportunities below the falls, complete with multiple stone slabs to dry off in the sun. No swimming today though. Blues Brother, Rambo, Fresh Ground, and I enjoyed our time and easily could've spent the rest of the day there had we so chosen. The trail after Dismal Falls was as easy as we've experienced on the AT. The trail closely followed streams that ultimately led to Dismal Falls. More flat trail with hardly any ups and downs of any kind. The four of us were moving quickly until we came upon Big Criiter, who has hiked solo ahead of us. Big Critter had a bad look on his face, clearly disheartened. Big Critter had foot surgery months before starting the AT. He'd previously sprained his ankle on that foot and now had injured it again. He and I hiked at a very slow pace. My intent was to talk with him as we hiked to get his mind off of his painful foot but I failed and couldn't sustain conversation for long periods of time, with me thinking that Big Critter was wondering whether repeated foot injuries were about to end his hike. After just hearing about Sooner Or Later's medical challenge, I found myself dipping into similar thoughts of just how quickly this hike can be jeopardized.Fresh Ground, Big Critter, and I stopped for prolonged lunch at Wapiti Shelter. We did this intentionally to give Big Critter time to prepare himself for the rest of the day's hike. There were no pick-up options and he needed to finish hiking another 7 miles, including a substantial climb. Wapiti gave us plenty to talk about though. This shelter is one of two on the trail that are known for brutality. I can't remember exactly but there was at least one hiker murdered here and then another was almost murdered here years later. Not good thoughts to say the least and eventually we agreed that we needed to begin moving at a 1 mile per hour pace so that Big Critter and us would end today's hike in daylight. Fresh Ground fetched water and was behind us so I carried the conversation with more about some highlights of my life. Big Critter is young, 23 years old, and he'd met Beth at Woodchuck Hostel. He is an inquisitive guy, very interested in speaking with hikers about their lives and sharing his too. He and I had already hiked as a pair for a few hours earlier in the week so we'd already covered basic family and work topics. Conversation went to new places with Big Critter seeming to enjoy my telling stories of my GrandDad and my Grandma. I got choked up and admitted that tears were welling up as I went on about GrandDad, one of the finest people I've ever known and someone who I wished I'd spent even more time with. A highlight of my life was GrandDad joining me for a car ride from his home in Coraopolis, PA to LaGrange, IL to surprise my Mom as GrandDad walked in the door to join our family for Thanksgiving. I was smiling a lot telling Big Critter about Grandma too - her stubbornness and dislike for medical treatment and those incredible chocolate chip cookies that she always had ready to eat upon my arrival. Lost in this conversation for a while, because time is available out here to have talks of any duration, the climb began to come to an end. We caught a great view on a ledge around mile 619. Big Criiter said his foot was holding its own and we started counting down the remaining miles. The banter turned playful as Fresh Ground and I exchanged barbs - Fresh Ground always wins, but I occasionally get in a good shot. I veered off with a couple miles to go to get a view up another blue-blaze trail. The last couple miles today were like the first of the day, now needing to be taken slowly because tired hikers tend to trip on such rocks without a morning's fresh legs. Rambo gave me my biggest scare of the trip as he somehow managed to hike behind me and then yell out my name just 20 yards behind me. Even he wondered if I was going to fall on my face after being so startled. The day's hike ended today finding Fresh Ground, Big Critter, me, and the young lady I spoke inappropriately to a few days ago. We were at Woods Hole Hostel, a hostel with a great reputation run lovingly by Neville and her husband Michael. Who-Dat came ambling in soon after we got there. A bit awkward to say the least. But the young lady was more than kind and conversation ensued as if we were meeting for the first time, probably because she was meeting Fresh Ground and Big Critter for the first time. When she and I were briefly by ourselves I began to apologize and she cut me off. She said she'd read the note I'd left below her door. She thanked me for it and said she completely forgave me and to never give it another thought. Such kindness. The evening was spent around a great fire Who-Dat started and then we were informed that the food requested of Neville was ready - fresh baked bread, smoothies, and home-made ice cream. This hostel has been here for decades and is as beautifully maintained as any home I've ever been in. It's warmth is incredible and consistent with Neville, who joined us as she ate her dinner. Fresh Ground and Neville know each other from prior years when Fresh Ground was feeding hikers with his Leap-Frog Cafe. The rest of us got to hear the conversation about hikers who have come through here in the past and about the beginning and history of Woods Hole Hostel.What a day. So many unique parts within it - each so special.