Date: 2005-05-07
From: Moreland Gap Shelter

To: Rt. 321/Hampton
Miles today: 15.0

Unlike most mornings, the day dawned clear and sunny from the outset. Papparazzi stayed in bed (he¢s only going to Kincora today) but Vermont, camped in his tent behind the shelter, was up the same time as me. I left before Vermont beginning immediately the steep knobs of the White Rocks ridgeline ¢ just like the ascents before the final descent into Moreland Gap. It¢s still cool enough for me to wear my windbreaker but that will change soon. After navigating the summits, false and real, I met Roamin Goat on the descent to Dennis Cove Rd. A former thruhiker, he was now section hiking with a partner behind him who he had met on a previous hike. His partner, who I met half an hour later, was another Scotsman so he and Vermont should have quite a conversation. Throughout much of today were stands of virgin hemlocks, a welcome and impressive sight here in the East. It¢s nice to see these rare instances of old-growth even if they may fall victim to the adelgid instead of the axman. Otherwise, the forest was open with rhododendron patches and not as many wildflowers as previous days. Upon reaching Dennis Cove Road at 10:20. I decided not to go to Kincora for a visit despite its vaunted reputation, instead having my lunch by the USFS sign for the Laurel Fork Gorge area. Being a Saturday, I witnessed families coming and going to what apparently is a popular recreation site. One young couple strapped their toddler into a backpack causing me to remark how much better the baby backpacks were designed now compared to when my children were small.Vermont came by just as I was about to leave. I soon discovered the reason for this area¢s popularity: a picturesque setting among laurel and rhododendron with a rushing creek and waterfalls. Also, the path was flat the first mile of so ¢ just right for day-trippers. Met a youth group with their backpacks who peppered me with questions and were genuinely impressed that I had hiked 17 miles yesterday and would cover 15 today. Shortly afterwards, I came to the limits for most day-trippers: a sign for the high-water mark for AT hikers. Sticking with the white blazes. I descended down a steep, rocky incline featuring rock steps. Knowing this would take a toll on my knees, I took the steps very gingerly. At the bottom where I viewed the classic vantage of the Laurel Falls seen on many AT picture stories and calendars, Vermont came striding briskly down the incline as if the rock steps were a carpeted staircase. ¢Just like Scotland¢ he said before continuing ahead of me. I hadn¢t anticipated the steep descent and ascent into the gorge so my body was a little more tired when, after a flat walk at the top following my ascent, I began the long ascent up Pond Flats. I knew this would be difficult and it was. Much of the ascent was in warm (make that hot) sunshine along the switchbacks cut into the side of the mountain. At least the path was dry and relatively rock-free. Still, the steepness was wearing on me. I try to never stop and rest on long (or any) ascents (except to blow my nose!), so I ended up walking slowly taking small steps. This was certainly the most difficult climb of my week-long hike to date. The last ascent I remember of this difficulty was Thunderhead in the Smokies last October but that was shorter. Come to think of it, Cheoah Bald was also tough.I was passed by two young hikers separately ¢ first a guy later I knew as Elf, then a woman known as one of the Jersey Girls. When I stopped at what I thought was the top, a slackpacker passed me; I passed him later. The flat area at the top was relatively short, then it was time for a much more forgiving descent during which I passed Elf, the Jersey Girl, and another woman all together resting on some rocks. Near the bottom, I met Sunshine, a young woman who asked me if I had seen her mother, Insanely Grateful Told her no but as it turns out, she was with Elf and the Jersey Girl above; she looked too young to be Sunshine¢s mother! And lastly, I met Fido who had shared the Mountain House B&B hostel with me. His ankle still¢s a bit tender.On Rt. 321, took less than 5 minutes to hitch a ride into Hampton (from a nice guy with a Bush sticker on his truck, no less ¢ he was still nice!) to Browns Grocery where I was directed to Braemer Castle, a few short blocks away. Vermont was already there ¢ he passed me on the street and he told me where to go in. The ¢castle¢ is an impressive 3-story structure built entirely of stone. Great situation ¢ I ended up with a private room on the second floor which also includes a kitchen and lounge area with TV and table for eating or writing, playing cards, etc. Picked up my maildrop at Browns and now I have extra food since I¢m positive I¢ll make it to Damascus 2 days earlier than planned.As is my custom, I went searching for a local restaurant down the road for dinner. Even though it wasn¢t far, I hitched a ride back to Brown¢s after dinner and saw Shakedown approaching a phone booth. I knew he¢d catch up to me but this fast? ¢Shakedown!¢ ¢Cooker!¢ He intended to shower and do laundry at Braemer but move on. No wonder he averages 20-mile days. At the hostel, he mused how Brown¢s didn¢t have the stock of groceries he needed so I offered my surplus meals. I convinced him to try some bulgur wheat along with a primavera sauce packet for flavoring. He said he might slow down some now although after looking at the map¢s elevation profile, he figured he¢d be in Damascus in two days. Asked him about my earlier Trail friends including Walt and Turbo Joe. Joe should catch me soon but I probably won¢t see Walt ¢till Trail Days.Vermont is on the same schedule as me at this point ¢ Iron Mt. Shelter tomorrow and Abingdon Gap Monday, slated for a Tuesday noon arrival in Damascus. Also in the hostel is a slackpacker I recognized from the Mountain Harbor B&B. I met Sutton, the owner and arranged for my 7:00 AM shuttle tomorrow. So a long day is finally in the books ¢ not my longest miles but likely the toughest thanks to Pond Flats.