Date: 2005-04-23
From: Erwin, TN

To: Erwin
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: light rain

4.23.05Day 417:30am Sitting around the lobby of the Super 8, enjoying the spread of the continental breakfast. And, naturally, the locale is currently mobbed by hikers, assaulting the food stores. The night shift manager informed me that we've plowed through 5 gallons of OJ, and 6 bags of bagels in the past 90 minutes. Well, put food in front of hikers, and watch out. Civilization is a little much for us folks, acclimated as we are to the woods and all. Dorothy made the comment this morning: "I actually find it easier to squat in the woods than sit on a commode." Hooky observed that beards must be itchy underneath the guys' chins, b/c they all rub that spot absentmindedly, as Eagle Eye strolled by, scratching away. Definitely a constant flow of folks in and out. And a whole slew of new faces and names. The list begins -- Clearwater, York, Naked Son, Three Cats, Ironfoot, Slip 'n Slide, GG, Coz, Wanderer, Mud Hen, the Pennsylvania Pods. Oh. Too many names to try to remember. My brain is too weary. Too much writing yesterday... 9pm Just returned from a fabulous dinner, and overall dining experience, at the River's Edge Restaurant. A place I never would have stumbled across, had I not known someone w/ a car. Fortunately, I have access to not one, but two vehicles. Until tomorrow. Toto drove down from Ohio, to visit Dorothy, who is unfortunately suffering from a sinus infection and is looking for her voice, which is conspicuously absent today. Also, I ran across Phoenix, who is hobbling about gamely (and quite spryly, I might add) in his fashionable boot cast. A large group of us decided to dine at the River's Edge, after hearing of Dorothy, Toto, T2, Icicle, and Snowman's rave reviews from the night before. They all opted to return, plus me, Red Hat, One Thing, Wanderer, Three Cats, Phoneix, and Ironfoot. Much fussing and several shuttles later, we all arrived at the rstaurant. The vegetarian options were rather slim -- it was a barbeque joint after all -- but even the appetizers were the size of an entree. (And, coming from a thru-hiker, that's saying something.) But, I wasn't really there for the food, more for the experience, and the camaraderie. And both were unequivocally terrific. The architecture and art of the place itself was worthy of a visit. Some amazing metalwork and forging -- steel roses, and panoramic mountain silhouettes. Plus the incredible hand-carved wood picture frames. And the construction of the building? Wood paneling, incorporating entire tree trunks as pillars. Just a very woodsy, earthy, cabin-like aura in the core of the place. And there was live music, a local bluegrass band. Largely instrumental, but one woman had a particularly beautiful voice. The music only contributed more to the ambiance. A very upbeat, foot-tapping, hand-clapping rhythm. They even played Rocky Top, a tune all the more meaningful after you've physically hauled your ass up and over that mountain. But, as fabulous the seting was, !it was the folks that made the evening. It's the folks that make theAT the AT. The first night I met Phoenix, at Mollies Ridge Shelter in the Smokies, I explained my familiarity w/ this stretch of the trail based on my 900-mile hike last year. He asked me:"Why on earth didn't you just pick up where you left off? Why rehike this crap?" (I think the snow, and the interminable ascent up Shuckstack contributed to his disbelief (and skepticism of my sanity).)My reply was to gesture around, at the two dozen hikers around me, and simply say, "This. This is why. These folks."He pondered that for a second, noded his head, and said "Okay". He got it. That's the beauy of the trail, the unspoken communicaton, the tacit understanding. And that's what made dinner tonight so wonderful, being surrounded by this table full of people, this family. I'm so happy to have seen Phoenix again. He sems in much higher spirits than when I last saw him in Hot Springs, which, considering he'd just learned of his multiple broken bones in his foot, was understandable. I didn't have much of an opportunity to hike w/ him, and really only briefly met him on the trail, but, in true AT fashion, the friendship and kinship was instantaneous. He's a truly wonderful guy. And is now sporting a kilt. (The Anderson clan tartan, according to Swamp Thing.) A kilt-wearing shuttle-driver, for Phoenix has been transporting hikers all over Erwin for the past handful of days. He wants to remain a part of the community, even if he can't physically hike at the moment. And, w/ the nasty weather, he's been an integral part, let me tell you. I think helping us out has helped him to become more acepting of his situation. It's a bitter pill to swallow, being forced off the trail (temporarily or not), but the hike itself is such a small part of the journey. And, as Phoenix philosophically puts is: "This is where my journey is taking me now." A very healthy viewpoint and atitude. B/c the AT is so much more than a linear footpath. So much more.