Date: 2008-09-17
From: Moxie Pond Rd, ME

To: View Entry
Miles today: 0.0

Two fords, one "swinging vine" brook crossing, and spectacular, clear, dry Maine fall weather = a memorable last day on the AT for this season.Michele and I started out around 9:30 a.m. when Karen left us off on an obscure gravel road that Sue from Stratton told her about. It was an unmarked trailhead, so difficult tofind. Karen's patience with driving on long gravel roads, early in the morning and again each afternoon has been outstanding. Thank you, Karen, for including me in your travels and bestowing your warmth and generosity on me.The trail undulated up and down through the pines beside a vigorous river. I knew from the profile that it was a relatively level run, but profiles do not indicate hills that span short distances, and there were lots of those along there. Red, gold and striated leaves had fallen here and there on the black mud, slate colored rock and pine needle covered trail. My feelings; poignancy, appreciation and sadness, seemed echoed by the still-vigorous greens and the intense but sparse reds and golds. Fall is here, a time of change and loss and reflection.I loved the Piscataquois river fords. The first was a confusing situation, as we came to a rock strewn bank that faced an island between us and the other side. It took a few minutes to find the blaze on the other shore, at which point Certain waded in and started across. She clambored up the island's edge and started through a barely discernable trail through the marsh grass. After stowing my boots on my pack and donning my bright yellow Waldies, I followed suit. Next came a dip back in and a stroll across a rocky bottom, with water up to our knees. My feet loved it. Shockingly cold at first, the water felt clean and refreshing as we made our way cautiously toward the other side.The East Branch ford was simpler, a straightforward crossing up to a steep dirt embankment. I spied a blue and white cooler sitting up on that shore, and when I got up there, found that a hiker named Strider had left cold Mountain Dew, other sodas and fresh apples for the hikers coming by. I just savored that drink and the fact that I actually passed a trail magic cooler with stuff still left in there!As the hike progressed, I found myself reflecting deeply on the profound privilege it has been to have over 6 months of 2008 to spend walking the AT. I've walked with so many wonderful people, through all kinds of terrain, all kinds of weather, and in all kinds of physical condition. I started out hoping to change my body's escalating weight and sedentary habits. I hoped to learn to hike and camp in all kinds of weather. I wanted to halt the progress of my gradual slide towards heart disease and diabetes. I also wanted to take a stand against being stalled out by cancer. What amazes me now in looking back, is that all my goals have been met, and then some. I am 30# lighter. Much, much stronger. I have a well developed lung capacity. My taste in food has shifted such that I have been able to maintain my weight loss even when not long-distance hiking: I have been eating far less sugar and processed grains in regular life. Right now it is late Wednesday afternoon, and I am sitting on an Adirondack chair on the shore of Moosehead Lake. Certain and Incessant are preparing to do the 100 Mile Wilderness section, and I am using today and tomorrow to allow myself a transition period back to home and my working life. Soon I will drop them off at the entrance to the final section of the AT, and be on my way back to what will be both the same, and not the same, as before I began this odessey. Both brilliant blue sky and dark, dark clouds are mixed together in the sky before me. Ducks, a couple of float planes, and a paddler in a red canoe occupy my field of vision. The old wooden docks creak in the breeze, as the five o'clock sun cuts across the scene. I feel soaked in a state of intense gratitude, something a respected elder once called joy-filled pain, and also pain-filled joy. In thanks for your witnessing,Auntie Mame