Date: 2007-07-21
From: Connecticut Border

To: Massachusettes Boarder
Miles today: 45.3

¢Revenge of the Skeeters¢                  Ranger Jan Reporting      There are only 52 miles of Appalachian Trail in Connecticut, but my 3 days in residence left an impression. It was cool and overcast as I hiked along 10 Mile River on the first day, a pleasant introduction to the state and its variety of river walking. At 10 Mile River Lean-to I met Life Traveler, a young thru-hiker just returning to the trail after a bout with Lyme Disease. A large rash/scar was still visible on his leg. It made me thankful the Deer Tick I removed from MY leg a few days earlier hadn¢t left me in a similar plight. Further along the river a pack of adolescent hikers rallied around to watch me treat my drinking water. Full of questions about thru-hiking, their infectious, enthusiastic buzzing reminded me of the mosquitoes I would soon be battling. The wide-eyed awe in these youngsters helped me remember my own gratitude. I was fortunate to have this opportunity.      Bull¢s Bridge was ahead, one of only 2 covered bridges still in use in Connecticut. During the Revolutionary War, George Washington and his army used this crossing several times. My reason for crossing was more mundane; a turkey sandwich awaited me at the local convenience store on the other side of the river.      After ascending Schaghticoke Mountain I encountered one of the steepest, rockiest trail sections yet. I would soon discover how fickle Connecticut¢s trail was. Easy river walking gave way to endless ups and downs, smooth level trail to treacherous rock scrambling. Water was no longer an issue, though; in fact, long stretches of trail were damp, dark, overgrown¢¦..literally swamp-like. (glacially formed upland freshwater swamps) Then I met the Housatonic River and again the travel was level and pleasant. I reached Stewart Hollow Brook Lean-to at dusk. The shelter was packed full with recumbent hikers, but no matter. I had decided earlier to pitch my tent. For the first time in 1459 miles of trail, mosquitoes were the dominant life form. The tiny cannibals were barely noticeable before, now a HAZMAT suit wouldn¢t have been inappropriate.      It rained the next day, but not on me. (The ¢Luck¢ still held strong. It poured while I lunched at Pine Swamp Brook Lean-to.) Mountain Mike was there with his companion Pumpkin. (easily the cutest canine on the trail) I hadn¢t seen them since the Shenandoahs. Mike is an old-school hiker, external frame pack, loaded, bamboo hiking poles. A veteran 1996 thru-hiker he returns again and again to the AT, working briefly in the off-season. We camped together at Belter¢s Campsite, hurriedly setting up amid kamikaze bloodsuckers.      My third day in CT was sunny and mild. Intersecting with the Housatonic River again, we proceeded to Falls Village, my resupply point, and a great stop at the Mountainside Caf©. Mountain Mike was out of food and money, so I bought him breakfast. After crossing a large iron bridge we were soon at Great Falls. (not so great these days, as the dam allows only a small part of the river¢s true volume to pass) We spent a couple of hours sunning and soaking beneath the falls. It was idyllic¢¦¢¦until I got a call from my sister Kim.      My father was in the hospital again. He¢d had a stroke. How quickly everything changes. Filial love and duty trump my AT adventure. I would have to leave the trail and return to Michigan. Would I return to the AT? I didn¢t know. Fate had intervened. I continued hiking to Salisbury in hopes of catching a bus from the larger town. The rest of that day was beautiful, the view from Rand¢s sublime, the trail rolling and easy. My mind, however, floated in a daze.      I decided to spend the night a Maria¢s. For more than 12 years the vivacious widow has boarded and pampered AT hikers. She¢s a trail angel without reservation. She greeted me with a soda and Klondike Bar. Upon hearing of my father's illness, she was very sympathetic, going out of her way to help me. (eventually securing a ride for me with another boarder who was driving west the next day) After supplementing my dinner with fresh corn and string beans, she took me to the laundry mat and bought me ice cream. I appreciated all the TLC.      I hooked up with Joe, my ride, the next morning. He was the father of thru-hiker Alright, here to ply his son and companion Chopsticks with a little trail magic. Before leaving town, Joe and I met the pair on top of Mt. Everett. Two other thru-hikers joined in as Joe unloaded his truck of provisions and orchestrated one last trail feast.      In a few hours, Joe had deposited me at the Syracuse, NY bus terminal. I was on a 1AM bus heading west. In Grand Rapids the next evening, brother-in-law Bill graciously supplied transportation for the last leg of my journey back to Traverse City. (Hopefully paused¢¦.98 days since Springer¢¦.85 on trail¢¦.& 1484.7 miles hiked¢¦¢¦AT 2007)      Connecticut Photos: www.homepage.mac.com/janealy