Date: 2015-06-07
From: Atkins, VA

To: Woods Hole Hostel
Miles today: 85.8

"A Great Pilgrimage" by Kabir (India, c. 1440-1518) translation by Daniel LadinskyI felt in need of a great pilgrimageso I sat still for threedaysand God cameto me.While I am not sitting still for three days exactly, I am enjoying a "nero" (a day when I hike close to zero miles) at the beautiful Woods Hole Hostel near Pearisburg, VA. This cabin only .5 miles off the trail was originally built in 1880 and was purchased in 1939 by Tillie and Robert Wood. Robert was doing a study on Elk in Southwest Virginia and Tillie was one of the first women of her generation to hold a master's degree (in Mycology--mushrooms). In 1986 they opened the cabin and the adjacent bunkhouse to AT hikers. Robert died the following year, but Tillie ran the hostel for 22 years until her granddaughter Neville and her partner Michael took over operations. Last night I was so grateful to partake in one of their famous communal meals. I was so delighted to set the table and help chop salad greens grown right outside the front door. Before the meal, the 17 of us gathered (Neville and Michael plus thru-hikers and section hikers) observed silence and then shared something we were grateful for (mine was the apple butter that was for breakfast this morning but accidentally got set out for dinner too!) The meal began with the salad and bread course, following by the main course (3 options! Pasta with marinara and meat, pasta with pesto, and a rice stir fry with veggies and peanut sauce) and then dessert! (strawberry-rhubarb pie with ice cream!) Before the meal, fellow thru-hiker Prana led yoga on the front lawn. When I called to make a reservation, the person who picked up the phone said "Woods Hole Hostel. This is Muskrat." (Muskrat is a thru-hiker who has doing a work-for-stay here). I don't know any other place where someone named Muskrat is the concierge. Every minute I am here, I feel my cells regaining energy. Internet here is by satellite, so picture upload will happen at my next stop. The first half hour of use is free and each additional half hour costs $1. When I get done with my hike, maybe I'll "charge myself" for computer use to make sure to keep it limited.   The last section was a tough one with the weather-- the wettest since the GA/NC line. Using the word of Treebeard the Ent from Tolkien's Lord of the Rings, I was too hasty to declare in my last post that spring had moved to summer. It would be more accurate to say that the season is in transition. I am grateful that there is nothing requiring my presence on any fixed date after I finish my hike. Since I have no schedule, I can no longer be behind, late, or race to meet any deadlines. The last section was really only 81.1 miles, but somewhere in my previous posts I forgot 4.7 miles, so I've giving myself a bonus! The social dynamic on the trail is often described as a hiker "bubble" where a group is hikers is generally within a week or so's walk of each other. Friends are first defined by proximity (start date, average daily miles, and how much "time off" you tend to take). It is wonderful to see a friend whom I haven't seen in a week or two and be greeted enthusiastically. I imagine that this is how God greets all of us. The next section to Troutville, VA includes the famed Macafee Knob, a large rock projection that is one of the most photographed spots on the AT where hikers sit with their legs dangling over the edge. Until then, Cheerio!