Date: 2005-05-15
From: Skyland Lodge

To: Terapin Station
Miles today: 33.8

Skyland Lodge (918.1) to Terapin Station (951.9) 33.8 milesWell, what couple of interesting days. It has been a comedy of errors. A multiple of problems and a covey of trail angels. My worst days, best days and best shelter evening. It was raining early on the 15th so I got a late start at 9:50 AM. I had originaly planned a short day to Pass Mt. Hut (928.8) and got there about 2 PM. I decided to move on about 3-5 miles further and camp to make the next day easier and be able to include a breakfast and supply stop at the Elkwallow Gap Wayside (936.2). I decided to do a short Skyline Drive walk to put on the extra miles quicker & easier and have nicer views. I got on Skyline Drive at the trail crossing listed as Thornton Gap (927.6) and walked what turned about to be about 5 miles. Then decided to go all the way to Elkwallow Gap and tried to hitch a ride to make it before closing time. I quickly got a ride from Mollie who told me that I was on the road to Luray, VA. It was an east/west drive, not north/south. Duh. She turned around to get me back on trail. I asked if she would take me to Wayside at Elkwallow (936.2) & she did. I felt like I was loosing it. I offered to pay her but she refused money. She was a real trail angel. I ate and bought some trail food at the Wayside and got back on trail about 4:15 heading for Gravel Spring Hut (941.9). It was a 5.7 mile hike. I was hiking slowly and struggling especially on the ups. I had no energy and was in almost continual pain. My feet hurt. At times, I just had to stop NOW, not find a place to stop, but stop NOW. Not one more step. A day hiker came up from behind and passed me. He noticed that I was struggling and dropped back to stay with me. We got to a road crossing where his car was parked and asked if I wanted a ride to a road crossing within about 12 mile of Gravel Spring Hut. Another trail angel. His concern was greatly appreciated and touching. I cannot remember his name. I accepted. I felt as though I had nothing left. He dropped me at Skyline Drive 17.7 and I hiked south about 12 mile to the hut. I even hiked off trail for a while before I noticed. There was already a couple (Aaron & Linda) tenting near the shelter. I set up my tent near them to be able to socialize. Two young southbound section hikers (Priest & Theophyllus) came in and used the hut. Flapjack, who I had met a few days earlier came in and used the hut also. Shortly later, a father (VA state trooper) & son came in and tented near us. It was the best time I have at a shelter in weeks. We all socialized back & forth. Everyone was nice, talkative, and respectful. A great group. Flapjack & I were the only north bounders.There was a bear pole at this shelter as were at all the shelters in Shenandoah. There was a warning in the shelter register that a raccoon had learned how to get up the pole and get your food. Some people used the bear pole & some hung food from a tree. We all listened for a raccoon visit during the night but none came. There was no raccoon visit.I told my true Devil and true Werewolf stories and my lie Kill-my-wife stories and about how I managed to get on trail despite being married less than 6 months. After thinking and talking to Aaron & Linda, I have decided to get off trail. I am not losing it¢¦I already have lost it. My judgment is gone. I am in pain all the time. My feet hurt. My heel blisters are better but I have blisters, now calluses, in the metatarsal area of both feet behind the middle toes. They are hard and put pressure on a nerve. I have lost 25 pounds and feel weak. I have no energy. Even mellow ups are a struggle. Even ¢easy¢ trail is not easy anymore. The trail is not fun anymore. Physically, mentally, and emotionally, I am done. This decision makes me feel relieved. Aaron & Linda offered their cell phone to call home but reception is poor here. I think I got through. Flapjack is getting off trail too. It is a time and money problem.. Evidently, he got a $300 traffic ticket on his was that cut into finances. His car is in Vermont & I have offered to share a way out.It rained last night. It was heavy for a while so I pack a wet tent today. We all had a good morning and took pictures of each other. I left the shelter (941.0) at 7:15 heading to Terapin Station (951.9) arriving about 12:30. I made very good time despite struggling and stopping for a break and snack at every road crossing. This was my best day on trail in weeks. It is probably how I should have been hiking. I met Michael Evans who runs the hostel. I told him that I wanted off trail and discussed options. I decided to call my son Thatcher in Philadelphia to come get me. He was in a meeting but I had it interrupted and arranged to be picked up at Terapin Station. Before I was even off the phone, Thatcher had directions up on his computer. Mike and I talked a while. He is a past thru hiker and understands how I am feeling and why I need off trail. I ate ice cream and neuc-em pizza which was available at the hostel and took a shower. The hostel was well set up with services available¢¦ shower, TV, bunks, food, phone, computer and more. Flapjack came in about 2PM. He said that he may hitch a ride with me to Philly but had to stop a mail drop from going to Harpers Ferry first. He did stop the package and went to Philly with us when Thatcher arrived about 6 PM. We stopped at a Mexican restaurant for dinner later.