Date: 2015-05-06
From: Damascus, Va. Woodchuck Hostel

To: Whitetop Mtn Rd, USFS 89
Miles today: 21.4
Weather: scattered clouds

Today's entry should be posted as two separate ones: part A and part B is how I will do it, since even if I space for paragraphs my phone compresses everything together as one big run-on mass. Sorry about that, Trail technology, like all else, we have to make do.So, part A is the beginning. Just as planned, a mocha at MoeJoes followed by a stop in subway for a 6-inch chicken bacon ranch for later. And a good thing, too, more about that closer to part B. Damascus is a hiker town, true, but it's also a biker town, since not only the AT runs through it, but also the Virginia Creeper Trail. Lots of people come to ride bicycles on it, for it is flat and broad, without rocks and roots, and is pretty, following a cascading river. For part of the day, the two were one and the same. But the AT diverges from the Creeper Trail to do what it does best: send the hiker up and over hills. Some of the hikers figured out that they could walk on the Creeper most of the day, making for less work, less sweat, and a faster time to the shelter at 16 miles in. Others of us, the ones who want to stay "pure" to the task of truly thru-hiking, chose to tough it out on the AT. It's one of the decisions one has to make in order to "hike your own hike" and it was displayed in this case more clearly than ever, since some of the time you could actually SEE the Creeper down below (see pics). For my running buddies and NE Ohio people, it would be like my saying I was going to run the Buckeye Trail from Boston Store to Station Bridge, but instead, chose to run the towpath from one point to the other, saying it was the same thing because I ended up at the same destination, after all. Huh? Ya, that's what I said.As an aside, there's no right or wrong answer to this dilemma...the hiker must decide for his or her ownself.Another aside, for those of you living near a construction zone, you aren't alone with your detour signs. The AT gave us a detour today, only minus the orange cones and barrels...we got a piece of paper taped to a tree with printed instructions, because a bridge was out.Anyhow, I walked the AT and planned to stop for my sub at a shelter midway through the walk, but found it was 1/4 mile from the white blazed trail (do the math, that's extra half mile round trip) so decided to walk on until I was hungrier (note: this only happens after a zero, town food interlude, otherwise hikers are ALWAYS hungry...some of them even after town days, regardless of how much they ate). Instead I snacked my way to the shelter, arriving a little before 3. There I sat and ate my sub. Meanwhile, I saw that Single Speed was there. I had hiked with him previously through the Roan Highlands, when his legs and feet were bothering him. In Damascus he got new trail shoes, and was feeling better. We talked about walking a few more miles down the trail, since the weather was fine and it was still early. We drank a bunch of water, visited the "trees", loaded up, and off we went. Enter part B. Shortly, we came to a good campsite with water, but it was early, so we moved on. Then we crossed a pasture with cows in it, cool beans. Then we started climbing. And the path went up, on and on. Then it sprinkled. We went on. Then it rained. Single Speed surmised it would be quick shower, and I agreed, so we didn't put on rain gear, except pack covers. We kept on, going up, straight line, traversing the ridge, no switchbacks, up and up. It poured. It thundered. We were soaked. Kept going up. Seemed like walking up a downward escalator, same steps over and over, never getting to the top. Getting colder. Getting windier. Now the hands are pink. Now they're turning numb. We think we're almost to the top, where we think there's a road and campsite. We debate putting on rain gear now for warmth. We crest the hill and before us is a huge, majestic bald and lots of wind, instead. Fortunately we don't have to climb the bald, just make our way across the field at its feet. Into some beautiful, eerie woods. I can't feel my hands on my poles now. My lips are blue. We climb some more, and finally pass the water supply that signals we're nearing the campsite. Off to our right, a valley far below, behind which stacks 100 layers of mountain range, cloaked in gradient shades of gray and blue. It had stopped raining briefly, but now starts up again. I have my first experience setting up my tent in the rain, hands so cold I can't unbuckle my pack. Tent is buried. Now everything is getting wet. So cold. Change from wet clothes first. Don raingear. Set up soggy tent. Try to get everything inside. Voila rain stops then. Dinner is made and eaten. Good thing for that late afternoon subway, or I wouldn't have made it! Hot chocolate is drunk. Wet clothes hung on line. Into bags we go for warmth. What a day!!! What a drama!!! If only we had studied our guides better for that extra 5 or 6 miles...we had no idea what we were getting into. The stunning scenery at the top without a photo shot, but forever etched into our minds. Wow.