Date: 2006-05-15
From: Bear's Den Hostel

To: Harpers Ferry, W VA
Miles today: 19.9
Weather: broken clouds

Day 70 Monday This morning at breakfast all the hikers were seated together and telling stories while shoveling down French toast, sausage, fruit, coffee, and juice. Dutch, a section hiker from Michigan, mentioned that he had hiked some in the Shenandoah with his daughter. I asked if her name was Jennifer, and he looked at me kind of funny and said "yes". I told him about the "Dear Dad" note I found on a concrete signpost just past Big Meadows last Thursday (Day 66). He had not seen it and was delighted to hear about it and also to learn that another dad had been inspired and encouraged, thinking the note might be to him. This was especially coincidental since today is my Dad's birthday. Got away late (after 8AM), with rain threatening. For about the first hour I hiked over the last of the "Roller Coaster", with modest ups and downs and lots of rocks, in a steady rain. Then the Trail followed a flat ridge through open woods (very little undergrowth on the forest floor) with some rocky sections but generally wide and clear. For 3 or 4 hours I was able to make great time. But all good things must come to an end, so the Trail then turned into a continuous rock path with undergrowth crowding in on both sides - mostly poison ivy. The last 6 miles into Harpers Ferry were like punishment for some past sin. Since I started off in rain gear this morning, the camera was stowed in my pack. Wouldn't you know it...2 photo ops arose in the rain that I had to miss. The first was the first turtle/tortoise/terrapin I have seen on the trip, and the second was a sign announcing entrance into West Virginia. I was pushing to get to Harper's Ferry before the Post Office closed at 4:30, and made it, barely. Unfortunately the P.O. closed at 4, so I could not get my boxes this evening. Have to do that tomorrow morning, which will delay departure. Visited the ATC headquarters and met Mrs. Gorp, who is an assistant editor of Wingfoot's handbook. She is thru-hiking the entire trail, I think. I am the 68th NOBO thru-hiker to reach Harper's Ferry in 2006. 365 and I are sharing a "hiker special" room in the Hilltop House hotel, formerly a grand hotel perched over the Potomac, which now is in severe decline. Maintenance and staffing are far below par. We did not want to pay the super high prices in the hotel dining room, so we walked down into the "shops" district and found the "Secret Six Tavern", which was open and which had good food at reasonable prices. Harper's Ferry is a fascinating little town...lots of history and historic buildings, some of which are maintained in excellent condition and some of which are falling in through neglect. When we got back to the hotel after supper we saw High Pockets (from Seattle - at the Bear's Den Hostel last night) and Red Dog, who has been 2 or 3 days ahead but took a zero yesterday. Besides the turtles, wildlife seen today include a hawk sitting down on the trail in front of me and about the 6th pileated woodpecker I've seen in two days. Both flew up and away as I approached. As the Trail approaches Harper's Ferry it crosses the Shenandoah River on the side of a vehicle bridge. At first I thought it was the Potomac, since it is very wide and rocky and shallow. I later learned that the Shenandoah River joins the Potomac here at Harper's Ferry. I'll cross it tomorrow.