Date: 2006-08-11
From: Little Bigelow Lean-to

To: Caratunk, ME
Miles today: 21.3

Crossing the Kennebec River is something I have looked forward to for a long time, as for me that was the milestone that indicates that I am getting close to the end. Today I would be crossing that milestone and if I didn't want to swimm across I had better be there between 14:00 and 16:00. I was feeling so excited, motivated, and full of energy - enough to get me up at 5:00 and gone by 5:30. The rain from last night had stopped and I went along the trail as the sun started rising. Everytime I heard a sound in between the trees I looked, I was hoping to see a moose as they are more likely to be seen early in the morning or late evening. However, no moose. Time and miles flew by and before long I was standing at Long Falls Dam Road. In the middle of the road someone had painted a big "2000 mi". Wow, it sure was amazing to see it written "in stone" right there in front of my two weary but proud feet. I had actually walked 2000 miles? It seemed unbelievably that I could have walked that far over mountains, through valleys, under the canopies of so many forrests all the while following the Appalachian Trail and its magnificent adventure. It made me feel good. Felt like I had accomplished something, whatever that something was, but if I stood there on the road contemplating much longer, a car might just come and end the thought process, so North East I went again. I took a break at a really nice and big shelter, West Carry Pond Lean-to. As the name indicated there was a pond there and it looked like a great place to take a swim. Too bad I had so many miles to cover before 16:00. Patches met up with me a couple of miles after the break and we walked together for a little while before he was gone again. I had heard a lot of good about Pierce Pond Lean-to so I was excited when I finally got there. The shelter was old and small but what made it so special was its location. Right in front of the shelter was Pierce pond. A really nice place to swim as the water was clean, the bottom of the lake was nice, and you had a great view sitting right there at the edge of the water. After a good lunch consisting of a bagel with white cheddar cheese w/ sundried tomato and basil it was once again time to get going. I had four miles to go and it was around noon, so I was in good shape to reach the river at 14:00. The trail went along the edge of the pond before going back into the woods. All the way down to the river the trail followed a stream with lots of water falls and at one place I saw a grandfather who was out fishing with his grandson. A creek was running across the trail but a log bridge had been constructed about 6 feet above. The log bridge was one large log with a small log on each side. It was slippery and if I fell I would fall off the bridge and down on the rocks. It was a rather uncomfortable, and relatively unsafe crossing, especially as the logs were wet. hlf way across the log my left pole slipped and I nearly lost my balance. Phew, had to take a little breather before continuing. Made it across safe but I was breathing hard and was a little sweaty after the hard concentration and the almost-slip. It was nice to be on firm ground again. Climbing over a small hill I saw the river. I was there right at 14:00. A canoe, 3 hikers, and a ferry man were already there. On the opposite side of the river I could spot Dodger in his red hiking shirt and yellow cap. The trail had originally been routed right here as there were a ferry that took passengers across the river to a resort on the northern side. The resort closed and the ferry stopped. However, the river is too dangerous to cross by swimming as a hydroelectric plant releases water at unscheduled times further upstream creating a strong current and a much deeper and wider river. You can't see the water rise initially but within 10 minuttes it is flowing with full power, much faster than you can ever cross the river. To prevent drowning accidents and without having to relocate the trail the ATC hired a ferryman, Steve, to safely transport hikers across. It is the official route and there is even a white blaze painted on the inside of the canoe. I signed a release form, yes even out here the issues of liability seem to have arrived put on a life jacket and across we went in the red canoe. A trip I had dreamed about for weeks took but a few minuttes to complete. I was now closer to Mt Katahdin. Dodger and I went up to "Rivers and Trails", which is owned by Steve. We spent the afternoon and night there at his hostel.