Date: 2004-05-09
From: Niday Shelter

To: Four Pines Hostel, Va. 624
Miles today: 16.3
Weather: few clouds

Sun May 9, 10:10a ¢ I¢m all alone at the Audie Murphy monument ¢ it¢s another 5 miles to the turnoff for the Pickle, another 6 past that to the hostel. I¢m about to eat my Inyo firecrackers for lunch. I just took a ten-minute rest at a bench maybe 100 yards back. Saw Gimli, who said Gandalf said the monument was another mile and a half! Guess not. But I saw the blue blaze, and a sign saying ¢Memorial¢ so I figured this was it.Tough climb up ¢ feet hurting bad ¢ but pretty day and woods. Lotsa birdsong and millipede love action.We all thought Audie was a B-movie actor, but his monument reads:Audie Leon MurphyJune 20, 1924May 28, 1971Born in Kingston, Texas, died near this site in an airplane crash. America¢s most decorated veteran of World War II, he served in the European theatre 15th infantry regiment 3rd infantry division and earned 24 decorations, inclding the medal of honor, legion of merit, distinguished service cross, and three purple hearts. He was survived by his wife, Pamela, and two sons, Terry Michael and James Shannon.Wow.Trout Creek, 11:45a ¢ I¢m soaking my feet in the creek and eating the last of my food. Gimli, Gandalf, and I have made an agreement: first one into Four Pines makes arrangements to get the three of us to The Homeplace by 4:30p.Seven miles to go. Four Pines Hostel, Catawba, 11p ¢ Now, here¢s what I might¢ve written at 5p after I finally arrived at the hostel ¢¦ Jesus Fucking Christ. Everyone here (me, Tree Huggers, Sweaty Pig, Stumble Bum, Tailwind, Mainesail, Buckeye) did NOT think the stretch from Trout Creek to the road would be so tough. It just went on and on and on! I didn¢t mind so much, except it was slowing me down, and I was getting tired, my knees and feet were hurting, and I had no more food. I just kept watching the hour grow later and later. I blew off the blue blaze to the Dragon¢s Tooth then had to slowly, painfully, tet down the very steep trail, then double-back the way I¢d just come, only 50 feet lower. Bastards! And going up on the way down (repeatedly) just isn¢t right. Needless to say, my feet and legs are pooped, and my left knee is real tired. But, after Gandalf and I dropped our packs in the garage and found no taxi service,, showered super-quick and went out to the road to hitch. I heard a car coming as I was walking down the driveway and ran the last 20 feet or so and stuck out my thumb, and the pickup stopped for us! Took us all the way to The Homeplace, family-style southern cooking AYCE. We waited an hour ¢ it was packed for Mother¢s Day. When we sat down, though, it was pretty good chow, and came out quick. I ate four plates of food (roast beef, pinto beans, green beans, cole slaw, cinnamon-sugar apples, biscuits, mashed potatoes and gravy, lemonade, ice tea). I lef the fried chicken and country ham for Gandalf. Then we ate peach cobbler a la mode with coffee for dessert. I¢m telling ya, it was almost a Pigout of Doom. We packed up four Styrofoam boxes of leftovers for Gimli, who we saw staggering into Four Pines as we were rushing out to the road. That dude was beat.We got a ride back after only a couple of minutes waiting, then I sat outside and talked to Sweaty Pig for a couple of hours. Totally scary-looking dude, kinda like an evil leprachaun, but a total sweetie and a doting grandfather. We chatted about the woods and grandkids and dogs and martial arts and hunting and life in general in one of those completely random, enjoyable conversations that can just spring on you on this trail.Folks stayed up awhile playing cards, but I decided to lie down and work on digesting that epic feast.