Date: 2004-09-12
From: Bemis Mt. Lean-to

To: Little Swift River Pond Tentsite
Miles today: 12.9

12.9 mi. in 8.5 hrs.At last, a quiet, restful night in a shelter! A clear morning and a brightgolden sunrise, with the temp a comfortable 50. Off down the rest of theBemises (climbed Bemis, B. East peak, B. West Peak, and B. Peak 3 yesterday.)Today, B. Peak 2 and 1 remained. Then down to a busy stream where I had to do myfirst shoes-off fording. On the way I came upon Jeff and Botany Boy, two NOBO'sI had met yesterday. They had "cowboy camped" under the stars at the bald top ofBemis Peak 2, just past our shelter. Botany Boy is an amateur astronomer and wasthrilled by the brilliant stars in the moonless night. Just past the brookcrossing I met Raven, who was slack-packing south with two other NOBO's thatday. He's been staying at "The Cabin" in Andover for the past five days. Theyhad such a pleasant stay there that one day had led to another. Raven called it"being caught in The Cabin vortex." He'll resume his northward journey tomorrow,which may well bring us together again.I crossed Rte 17 into Oquossoc after a steep uphill grade, then launched into a fairly flat but boggy stretch. We met some dispirited SOBO's resting at the Rte 17 trailhead. They weren't very talkative. At Rte 17 crossing with Mooselookmeguntic lake in backgroundNo big mountains to scale today, but endless patches of water or liquid mud along the trail, and countless tangled roots, which kept the going slow. A beautifully clear sunny day with a mild NW breeze. I passed several ponds,one of which had a fine sandy beach and some picnic tables. Guess where I took aswim and lunch break? A bit later I re-met Pipesmoke, whom I had first met inVA. An older man, from NH. I also came upon a trail maintainer, a guy my agefrom Maine, who is actually the director for this stretch of trail. He advisedme how to go about volunteering for trail improvement or trail maintenance. I'dlike to get involved in some way, as payback for all the help people have givenus hikers in one way or another. Took a good spill this morning, skidding ona root while going downhill. Only a sore knee resulted, but it reminded me howsuddenly this trip could end. Only a few days ago a hiker fractured his wrista day or so out of Andover. A week or so before that, another hiker fell off her loaner-bike in Gorham, fracturing her kneecap. So I'm going as safely as I know how.This tentsite sits by alovely 20-acre pond. Two battered canoes lie at the landing, the tin one lookinglike a crumpled gum wrapper someone had tried to straighten out. I took it outfor a late afternoon paddle before setting up for the night. Earlier Imentioned the hiker population is roughly split into two age groups: thetwenty-somethings and those like me, the late 40's and beyond. Each performsdifferently. You might call the twenty-somethings "The Young and theRestless." They tend to stay up late, sleep late, but hike so fast they catch upto us oldsters with ease. They hike vast distances nonstop, then crash and stayin towns, having a good time, sometimes for days on end. The really fast onesthrow their hips around, as in race-walking. These are the hikers who can do30-milers back to back. Then there's us, getting up well before dawn,annoying the late sleepers with our packing, getting off early at a lower speed. We enjoy towns just as much, but not to such excess. Let theyounsters close down the karaoke bars at 3 AM, then hike out with a bad head thenext day. Not our bag. But there's no animosity between the two groups. Eachknows everyone is facing the same challenges on the trail. I admire their rawenergy and resilience. Getting dark now (only 7:15!) Time to turn in. Two redsquirrels are having some type of dispute high overhead, and pine cones arecrashing down all around. Wish they'd hire a mediator, so we can doze off inpeace. Tomorrow, to Rangeley to see family once again. The distractions ofliving so close by!g'nite!Now or Never