Date: 2016-06-06
From: Reeds Gap

To: Stealth campsite on Humpback Mountain
Miles today: 10.3
Weather: light rain

After last night's gastronomic affair at Devil's Backbone Brewery I was looking forward to their breakfast. I had slept in their "tenting area" (read big field out back) and was the only one there. I got up several times at night and was amazed to see stars! I love stargazing and one of my few disappointments on the trail is the lack of clear nights and open areas to see stars if the nights were clear. In contrast with Colorado or Kansas when you almost always see stars, here in the AT its been a rarity. In the morning I got up about 6:45 and started packing up and drying things out. I went over to the pavilion at 8 am and found two other hikers, Barnum and McLovin'. They had slept under cover instead of in the "tenting area". We had wifi there so we used the time to catch up with the world while waiting for breakfast. The hiker-only Breakfast at Devils Backbone was absolutely amazing! For $5 they had quiche, a hash brown potato cake, a large sausage (best ever), fresh fruit and a dinner roll, coffee and ice water. We felt like kings eating this bounty and so glad we stayed. The downside is we wouldn't get back to the trail until almost 11, but it was worth it. Before we left I got them to fill my Nalgene bottle with ice water.They dropped us at the trail and we headed toward Waynesboro. Getting this late a start I knew I couldn't make the 19 miles today, but I'd get as far as I could. As I walked, I kept taking sips of my ice water. How I miss ice out here! Ice water is the best!The trail was amazingly level, following the contour of a ridge below the Blue Ridge Parkway. It was pleasant except for the rocks, the rocks continued to kill my feet. Along the way I met up with Gently and Scarface, two hikers from Tasmania. I hadn't seen them since Rice Field Shelter out of Pearisburg and it was good to see them again. They probably win the award for coming the furthest to hike the AT.There were occasional rock outcroppings along this stretch of trail with just incredible views, which further slowed my progress as I stopped to enjoy them. By mid-afternoon it was time for the climb up Humpback mountain. Humpback Mountain was only 800 feet instead of 3000 like we had just been through yesterday. It was a relatively pleasurable climb with some nice views, except for the rocky trail. Over Humpback Mountain and down toward the campsite I was aiming for, the trail remained rocky and I just couldn't make up any time with my sore feet. Part way down some other hikers had stopped for a bear! The bear was about 50 yards away and pawing around in some weeds so my pictures look like a little black smudge in a field of green plants. He was watching us as intently as we were watching him and then just walked away. I finally got to see a bear on this hike! Finally about 8 pm I pulled into the campsite. There were several other hikers at this unofficial campsite which I was glad about. There had been reports of bears trying to get into food bags and I liked the concept of safety in numbers. Ironwill and Waldo with his dog Tulip were camped at this spot, another group in another site. I quickly set up my tent and cooked a meal before it got dark. Waynesboro was just 9 miles down the trail so I should easily be there in time for a town lunch, resupply, a shower, and laundry. Then it is on to the Shenandoah!