Date: 2009-04-29
To: Painter Branch Campsite
Miles today: 20.3

Total 240.7 So we are finally out of the Smokies and though I enjoyed them completely, it does feel good to have them behind me. Getting to Clingman's Dome was pretty cool because it is a famous spot on the trail that I have read about before. This particular day was extremely windy and pretty cold to boot. There were your typical tourists up there; jean shorts, Florida tank tops, and cameras, but we also saw a very attractive girl. It was a nice change of pace from the bulk of what we had seen up to that point. She had some questions and we felt pretty cool telling her that we had started in Ga and walked to that point. After getting pelted by the wind for a while on the observation deck of Clingman's, we walked down to have lunch at the bottom. You would have thought we were ambassadors for the trail with the Q&A session we had with the gapers there. The stretch of trail from Newfound Gap to Davenport Gap was my favorite portion so far. The typography changed to that of mountains that reminded me of the mountains I had hiked and explored in southern California. There were beautiful steeps and even the occasional landslide which is foreign in our Southeast Appalachians. There were even sites and smells that brought me back to my summer in the Sierra Mountains. The blackflies we had been dealing with also seized to exist in the northern section of the Smokies which was really nice. They have been plaguing us since Springer Mtn. The hike today was strenuous, but beautiful. We did over 20 miles and I definitely felt it. I walked past the boys who had stopped in at a shelter to rest so I was able to slow my pace. From 8:00 to ca. 1:45 I didn't take my pack off (except once for bathroom break). I found a spot in a stream where there was a small pool with a waterfall and relaxed there for about an hour. I don't know was it was, but I felt really free at this spot. (Some scientists claim that the negative ions released by falling water give feelings of well being) After climbing up some rocks to a more tranquil spot, I decided to take a shower in the cascade. Baths in nature like this and the dip in Fontana are so refreshng and gratifying with the cold water washing the trail grime away. Finally my hair and face felt clean again! In addition to myself, I was able to launder my hiking and sleeping shorts, and my socks. I had one pair of socks balled up that were still dry, but fumbled them down to the water below..wet feet again. Once I emerged out of the woods I came to a road that I didn't realize until later that I had been to before; it was the put-in for the Pigeon River. I sat on the river bridge and focused on a little class 2 rapid I had just taken a group rafting on last summer. Before long I saw some rafts coming downstream and was a little envious that I would not be waking up to go rafting each day that summer. (Last summer I was a raft guide on the Ocoee River in TN) I do however thank God each day for the ability and opportunity to be doing what I am doing right now. Jack, Tyler, and Dude washed in the dirty river and I just kept staring at the whitewater. Another mile or so took us to Standing Bear Hostel where Spicolli, Rabbit and Runing Clear, and Wolf Hound were staying. The owner was an asshole so we moved on after buying a few imperative food items from him. Poison ivy must only be allowed on this side of the Smokies, because it is absolutely everywhere. Had a good dinner of spanish rice with tuna and some strawberry Crystal Lite. Having a bit of light rain on the tent right now and it is time for bed. 30 miles until Hot Springs.