Date: 2003-06-27
From: Hemlock Lean-to (1900') 

To: US7 (620')
Miles today: 8.0

"The best laid plans of mice and men" ... and long distance hikers.   Aloha! I can say this as I type from yet another hotel. Wait! Hear me out before you go "geezzz... is she ever really going to hike again?" I truly do have a legitimate reason. Really, hear me out on this one. Thanks.   This morning I started my hike much like the last several days - early. I had planned for a 19.6-mile day, heat dependent. I would either make it there or stop at the 14.8-mile mark. Either would be fine but the 19.6 miler would allow me to hit Upper Goose Pond on Saturday. (I'll tell you about it when I get there.) It doesn't matter though; I'll get there. But I have to get through today first.   The first 4 miles were pretty much down hill with the last portion of it steep. You would think that would be a relief after all the UPs of yesterday. Well, I thought it would be but I was wrong. In this case though, within 5 minutes of my starting to hike I was drenched in sweat. I mean completely drenched. Dripping. Heat, humidity and haze were the forecast for the day. It was so thick that the first view gave only a very eerie solid sheet of white. Nothing, and I mean nothing, could be seen off the edge of the mountain. It was almost like being above the clouds but looking at a solid blank white wall. The only part not white was the area you were standing and all around you. No fog on your little island, just everywhere else. Anyway, that was the entry to the day weather-wise.   Mountain-wise the descent had me yelling at the Mountain Gods. I slipped, slid and stumbled my way down. For whatever reason I just could not get into the flow of hiking downhill. I thudded with every step. I found every hidden stump and slipped on even the dry rocks. I was angry by the time I reached the bottom. Angry with what exactly I don't know but I was angry.   As the terrain leveled out for the next 4 miles I simmered down and got myself back into a stride; only to have to then contend with hordes, literally hordes, of mosquitoes. I'm one of the few out here that doesn't hesitate to slather myself with deet but I'm not sure why - I still look like I've stood in the middle of a hornet's nest. If there's a biting insect within 100 miles it will find me. When I stopped for but a second to take a drink I was attacked. I practically ran the last two miles of that portion of the trail. I'm not sure but I would think that had the bugs been better, meaning less that would have been a lovely stretch to wander through. Reminded me of Hawaii in some strange way. Who knows? I wouldn't have thought that MA would have swamps and marshes but it does. Too strange.   As I came blasting out of the woods I was surprised to find Rooster beside the trail being quite ill. Since I hadn't seen her along the way I had pretty much figured that she was well on her way to her destination. Nope, not the case. It sounds like it took all she had to get to this point, around 6.5 miles. Poor thing was looking bad. Turns out she had been ill all night and had hoped she could walk it out. Nope. It was pretty much decided at that point that I would help her get to the nearest town - this one, Great Barrington, MA.   While sitting trailside waiting for her to feel strong enough to walk the additional 1.5 miles needed, she pointed out the extremely large turtle sitting beneath the trail sign. I hadn't even seen it. Huge! I'm betting that was the biggest turtle I have ever seen outside of a zoo. It stayed there until right before we departed when it lumbered heavily back onto its marshy trail. Neat to watch. Huge I tell you! Its tail was at least a foot long. I didn't know their tails grew that long! As for type, I'm not a turtle expert obviously but I'm thinking Snapping. Just had that look in its eyes if you got any closer!   While we waited, Mauka and Makai also showed up. That surprised me since they left before me. I had decided that they must have been moving on the descents and flat while I was picking my way gingerly down the mountainside. On the contrary, it seems they left the shelter area and accidentally turned south. They hadn't gone far before realizing it but it's still irritating and tiring to repeat your steps. Especially since they also were hoping for a 19.6-day. Bummer.   Moving on (poor pun), almost immediately after we began hiking again we came across Shay's Rebellion Monument. This stone marker commemorates the last skirmish of a bloody farmers' revolt led by Revolutionary War veteran Daniel Shays against government taxes and tactics in 1787. The incident assisted Federalists in making their case for a strong central government with powers to tax and maintain a standing army. Always with the dang taxes!   We obviously did make it to the necessary road and caught a hitch into the local outfitters. They were wonderful and shuttled us to this hotel which turns out not to be that close to the trail but will provide a shuttle back. That's important. After a bit of mental debate on my part I agreed to stay and split the cost of the room. It wasn't completely necessary for me to do so since Rooster was where she needed to be and didn't need my assistance per se. But after thinking about it I decided "what the hell". It's miserably hot out there, I'm dripping wet and in a bit of a testy mood. A nice shower would do wonders for improving my morale. I agreed to stay.   Part of me feels really guilty about doing so but the other part is sure glad I did. I know I should be hiking north but... some times "the best laid plans of mice and men" and hikers goes astray. It happens. And that's part of what this hike is all about - spontaneity. That and my fried brain of yesterday, drowned pores of then and today and feet feel so much better for it!   As for Rooster, she seems to be feeling much better. A hard sleep and some major fluid intake look to have started her on the road to recovery. This is good. I don't know that she'll be back on the trail tomorrow but I will be. Got to.   So tell me, be honest, don't you agree that my coming to town was legit? Maybe not the staying part but it did help her by lowering the cost. Raising mine but lowering her's. That should count for something. Come on... you think so too, yeah?   Now though, since I'm here, I do believe it's time to pamper the legs. I walked down to the dollar store a while ago and picked up shampoo and, my favorite, a razor! Hell of a way to get rid of mosquito, no-see-ums, and every other bug bite but ohhh so worth it. With that I will leave you until tomorrow night. I guarantee that we'll chat from the trail. Really!BSandTs: don't even want to talk about the sweat thing.AandPs: same slight ache from big toe to side of arch but rotating feet now. Rooster, a physical therapist, has recommended a few foot exercises. Keep your fingers crossed.MandGs: steep descents with boots that need to be replaced (and will be soon), biting bugs, and heat, and humidity, and haze...waah! (Lots today, huh.)Critter count: 5x chipmunks, 1x huge turtle (neat!)