Date: 2008-07-15
From: Trapper John Shelter NH

To: Hexacuba Shelter NH
Miles today: 12.0
Weather: scattered clouds

Day 149 Tuesday July 15 ¢ Hexacuba Shelter NH - Miles Today: 12.0 Total Miles: 1763.0We departed about 6:30 this morning. We were awake so we figured we might as well hit the trail, as you never know how long 12 miles is going to take you. At 7:00 we were down the trail about a mile and ran into New Day and Old School, who were trying to hitch into town to get more snacks and dinners. I think they are going slower than they anticipated and are running out of food. The kids were still in the tent sleeping. They now have 3 tents, which were pitched in a grassy field nestled up to trees, with a pond just past them. Because they were pitched in a grassy field, everything is soaking wet, so they will have to haul wet tents today. We were higher up the mountain and got to haul dry tents today. Just 1/4 mile past where the family camped, literally just off the trail was the homeless man sitting in front of his lean-to talking to himself with his hobo stick in his hand. After we got past him, we talked about what we could glean from the situation:Grasshopper: What all did he have near him or in his hand?Brakeman: The stick and a pocketknife.Grasshopper: A pocketknife big enough that would kill me?Brakeman: Yep.Wonderful. I wonder if New Day and her family had any idea they were camped so close to him. We're hoping that the homeless man is harmless and that he does not make as many miles as us today, thereby putting some distance between us.   It was a most gorgeous day with cool temperatures all day. We had a couple leisurely breaks and hiked just 12 miles today under pretty blue skies with some puffy white clouds and one gray cloud, which never did anything. We had a pretty good incline and I'd have to say that we're back in the territory of rocks, the type that are slanted rock slabs that go straight up the mountain. Luckily, only our incline up the mountain was on the slanted slabs of rocks. The decline was a nice pine needle and soil trail so it wasn't bad, but we¢re definitely getting into harder trails. We did have some exposed sunshine areas so Grasshopper wore sunscreen and her hat-bandana arrangement to make sure she did not get a reaction from over exposure to the sun due to the antibiotics. So far, so good, but I'm sure when we get more and more sun it will become more of an issue. Just gotta keep an eye on it.We climbed the fire tower at the top of Smarts Mountain where we could definitely see lots of bigger mountains in the horizon. Nothing super huge, but they are getting bigger - our life is about to change. We are in a really weird pocket of people right now - a pocket of old people. At the shelter with us is Apostle and Sightsee, both in their 50s, who we have met for the first time today. Also here is Cricket, in his 50s, and Traveler, who is 63. So not only do we have a huge group of thru-hikers here - more than we've seen in one place since the Smokies, but they're all middle-aged. Quite unbelievable.There is a south-bounder here tonight, a young kid about 18, who is just out for a month. He was totally wiped out and had to rest for a bit before going back down the trail to get water. I think he got a bit dehydrated. Grasshopper tried to yogi an exchange of water for snickers, but he did not nibble on that offer. None of us volunteered to go get water for him. Perhaps we should have, but we were all tired as well, just not as much as him. Once he recovered, he started chatting with us. He mentioned that this is the first good trail he has seen since he started. Sounds like we have our work cut out for us for the remainder of the trip. I think the rocks are here whether we want them or not. Traveler, after the 12 miles today, was quite beat and I think he's very joyful of his decision to make reservations for each of the huts in the Whites and not be forced to do too many miles. He has not done any 20 mile days since Harper's Ferry, where he was doing 20 mile days, 4 out of every 5 days. He's also said that this is his last thru-hike. From now on it's day hikes or slack-packing, which is essentially day hiking. I think he's had enough hiking war stories for his lifetime and does not need anymore, which we can relate to. We spent some time with Cricket this evening. He is unique, in a nice way, in many ways. First - he does not wear the typical thru-hiker garb; he hikes in a blue and green bathing suit with a green floppy hat, resembling a fishing hat, with an AT symbol on it and a cord that rests around his neck and underneath his chin. Below his right knee, he sports a black magnetic band to assist with knee issues. Above the same knee he sports an old tied string, of whose purpose our minds now forget. A water bottle and a large towel hang from the left side of his pack. A sleeping pad hangs off the back of his pack. His hiking stick is a 4¢ homemade wood staff painted with personal meaningful symbols ¢ American flag, 101st Screaming Eagle Airborne emblem, a religious cross, various dates (the year of his hike ¢ 2008, the year of his military service ¢ 1969), the name of all of the 14 states along the AT with a painted yellow ribbon connecting them and finally a reference to his wife. On the bottom of his staff is a rubber tip. Every so often he calls home and asks for a new one to be sent. What a personal treasure his stick must be! He¢s also unique in that he never plans ahead. He says he is not a destination hiker. So if you ask where he¢s headed tomorrow or where his next resupply point is, he cannot tell you, as he does not know. A very unique and perhaps more relaxing way to conquer the trail. Something our anal retentive minds would have a hard time accepting, but should try for a change! But a very nice man whose company we surely enjoyed. We could probably learn a lot about life from him if we had more time to chat with him.Everybody at the shelter tonight was talking about the homeless man, as well as the logistics associated with summiting Katahdin and getting out of Baxter State Park. We all know it's a bit premature to be thinking of Katahdin, but it's in our sights and we're all hoping we're going to make it there. In regards to the homeless man, we figure he did not make it over the mountain, as it was pretty rugged. Perhaps he keeps to a little section just north and south of the Hanover area. As we passed south-bounders, we advised them of the situation, so they could watch out for their own safety. I think that's it for today. We've had a nice time chatting with the guys in the shelter. It's 6:45 and 70 degrees. We decided to come up to our tent and chill for a while. The next 2 days are bigger mile days ¢ about 16-mile each day. Tomorrow¢s terrain is much, much gentler than the following day, but we're going to go ahead and get an early start because you never know how much is hidden in these topo maps and how much rock is on the trail to slow us down.Goodnight from 413.2 miles to go, plus I guess the 5 miles back down Katahdin, but who's counting that.