Date: 2006-04-18
From: Greasy Creek Gap

To: Roan High Knob Shelter
Miles today: 8.6
Weather: overcast clouds

I said when I started that some days on the trail would be miserable, and there have been a few. The great days turn the hike around. They weave together to make the whole experience. Today was a great day.I still keep missing the chance for a zero and I knew there was a hostel 2 miles up the trail. Tempting as it was, I couldn't justify it. But, I woke up with a craving for coffee and decided to at least stop in for breakfast. A southbound section hiker was singing praises for the place yesterday and handing out their cards.Greasy Creek Gap Friendly (Not Hostile) is a 1/2 mile off the trail down a washed out jeep track. As I walked down and down I cursed my decision but didn't turn back. This place was nowhere. As I crossed out of Pisgah National Forest, it looked like I Was in Butcher Holler. Loretta Lynn could have popped out from behind any tree singing Coal Miner's Daughter. After I passed a snarling dog behind a barbed wire fence I saw the sign for the hostel. It didn't look promising. The bunkhouse was pretty run down. The house behind fit the scene. When the hostel owner came out, I knew I was welcome. CC and Pack Rat welcomed me into their living room where I flopped into a leather recliner. Junko, their only guest, was paying and heading out. I told CC what I wanted for breakfast starting with coffee. She started fixing eggs for me and for Pac Rat. She told me she only had turkey bacon because the house was kosher. I thought it was hyperbole until she said I should make toast on the back porch because she wasn't touching leavened bread. I said, "Oh, you're KOSHER, Kosher." They are messianic Jews and it's passover. I asked a few questions they were happy to answer. I wasn't familiar with Messianic Jews and assumed everyone in this part of North Carolina was Baptist.As I sat at their table the tension of the last few days melted away. I told them what I wanted but was missing in my hike. I realized that I could just relax, let things go, adn get what I wanted. I had been in such a hurry to eat and get back on the trail. Then I wondered why. I ended up staying and talking for a couple of hours and then hiked out at an easier pace and a lighter step.Today's hike was short but beutiful. It was also one of the most physically challenging on the hike so far. It took more out of me than the 26 miles into Erwin. I had planned on making it to Overmountain Shelter, three shelters up the trail. By the time I left the Friendly, I knew I wouldn't make it. I didn't realize I couldn't make it if I tried.The last 2 miles were to the top of Roan Mountain, the last 6000 footer until Mt. Washington. I had a 2000' elevation gain in that 2 miles. They were killer but worth the effort as challenging as any long New England climb. The views stretched out behind me and with a new outlook I just relaxed into the effort. I had seen the mountain from the hostel and thought it looked imposing. It was. By the time I reached a summit and sat on a bare ledge I realized I still had more to do. I was only on Beartown Mountain. Roan was the next peak. Climb and climb some more but never complained about a step. As I neared the top I just had to laugh. All that effort, laughing was better than crying.Once at the peak, the shelter was another short climb away. Roan high knob shelter is the highest shelter on the trail and one of the coldest. It's unique because it actually has 4 walls, a door and an attic. There were 8 of us there and we fit with room to spare. We were glad for the door when the temperature dropped and the wind picked up. Extra glad when rain and thunder started around 2 in the morning.Relaxing, Challenging, invigorating. A very good day.