Date: 2004-07-16
From: PA 325 Campsite

To: Duncannon, PA
Miles today: 18.0
Weather: overcast clouds

"Rattlesnakes are Everywhere!"The above words were the first I heard today on the trail. Gordy and I packed up our surprisingly dry tents and were starting out at 8:30 am when we ran into Pippin and Cowgirl. Pippin gave us the lowdown on the upcoming section of the trail. He described having tiptoed around three rattlesnakes in one short rocky ridge section only three miles from our starting point. YIKES!!! In case anyone is new to my journals, I love snakes almost as much as getting a large rash over my entire body; I love snakes like I love cancer; I love snakes like I love watching puppies die¢¦In short, I HATE SNAKES!!! My hike started with a new-found sense of adrenaline and fear.Gordy and I immediately found ourselves hiking up a steep incline. As usual, my leg muscles burned and sweat poured profusely from my body. The feeling, however, was moderate compared to the sweat and burn of three days earlier when I left Port Clinton. In no time at all, I was past the rocks and trees of my climb and onto a ridge just two miles from the ¢snaky rocks of doom.¢ (Gulp!) With every step, my heart raced faster and my surroundings became a blur as I headed forward to face my fear. Gordy and I passed two older ladies who asked about the prospects of camping. We asked them about snakes, but they'd seen none. My heart calmed and breathing returned to normal. We walked on and ran into Sweetleaf and Fancy Free..."Watch out," they said, "We saw two rattlesnakes coiled on the rocks!" Again, my heart was pounding, blood pumping and a lump was rising in my throat. I moved faster, but it only brought me closer to the asp-laden rock. Moments later Gordy and I were there. "Yeah, we get to see snakes," Gordy said. I said, "Aahhah." With every step my heart shook. My head darted in every direction; looking, I prayed. Gordy stopped to talk with an older couple halfway through the rocky area. I stood there sweating, looking around, trying to be tough...not hearing a word of the conversation. Finally, her conversation ceased and I darted through the rest of the section. We were finally safe - or so I thought!!!As we walked on, I was still leery, but I was beginning to calm. As I thought about snakes, I walked right into a spider web¢¦ugh! I walked on contemplating the irony that I could have died from a spider bite while lost in thought about snakes. Then, the ¢double irony¢ ¢ as I thought about the spider/rattlesnake irony, I walked right by the coiled Copperhead on my left. I was scared half out of my gourd as Gordy said, ¢Look, a Copperhead!¢ After safely moving by and resuming the breathing, I took a picture. I went cross-eyed as I realized the ¢double irony.¢ My snake adventure was finally over.A couple rocky, flowerless miles later, we reached the first shelter. Pumped with adrenaline, I had been flying on the trail. We took a break at the beautiful shelter, joking and relaxing. In the center of the table, there was a bottle filled with a clear, unidentified liquid. It smelled minty and Gordy dared me to have a sip. I did ¢ peppermint Schnapps, aah. After the surprise sip of alcohol, we hiked on in total laughter.Quote from Gordy: ¢You can be the pig farmer, now I need a drunk idiot to marry me.¢She was actually referring to the minister ¢marrying¢ her, but I informed her that I know a number of drunken idiots and I was sure I could help her. The fun lasted for three miles; the next four were a blur of heat/rocks.With 4.5 miles left, I was exhausted. Sixty-one miles may be the most I have done in any 3-day stretch. As I sat to rest, we met Sheriff, a cool, relaxed hiker from Michigan. Gordy was talking with him as A.T.K. and Miss Daisy arrived. I had not seen them since Erwin, TN, 800-miles ago. It was awesome to catch up with them and see that they were doing well. I also met Katie (aka Tang) and Bernie before we left to do the final 4.5 miles for the day. We were headed to town, to The Doyle and to meet Gordy¢s mom.The walk into town was rocky and downhill but we pushed. I nearly tripped and fell six times but somehow managed each time to stay upright. Then my good fortune ceased and I slipped on the side of the trail on the steep downhill. My knees cut into the rocky earth. I was okay but my water jug was not. While falling, I dropped my milk jug of water. I watched it roll, "thwpop, thwpop, thwpop" all the way down the mountain and onto the railroad tracks. I never saw exactly where it landed, but I assume no one was killed from a falling gallon of water. Gordy and I cracked up in laughter, and minutes later we reached the road.The road into Duncannon is a total shock. You walk straight from the woods onto a Southbound Interstate Highway. Suddenly, tractor-trailers were honking at us as we walked two feet up in the air, balanced on the barrier. It was the antithesis of the trail. Thankfully, our southbound excursion was coming to an end. When we got into town, we visited the bar where Trail Angel Mary works. Last Sunday, she said she might be able to give me a ride to Port Clinton, but when we arrived, we learned she had left for vacation. I didn't know how I'd return to Port Clinton, but I couldn't worry about it right then-I was just happy to be walking back into town and to The Doyle.I'm not a pot smoker, but even I had to laugh at the juxtaposition of street signs/truck as we rolled into town. Parked at the intersection of Green and High Streets was a huge Herp Brothers Construction vehicle.The town walk was cute, lined with houses and churches. Gordy and I smiled all the way to The Doyle. As we arrived, two ladies staring at us from the porch we happy to see my Gordy southbound companion ~ Gordy's mother and aunt!Gordy's mom was a bit shocked by her daughter's rugged appearance. She bought both of us beers and I sat and talked with her aunt. Gordy's family rocks! We talked about the trail, my thoughts about teaching, career options and how nice it is to just let go. Before the night was over, Gordy's family had taken six hikers, myself included, to dinner. I had an awesome cheese steak "Primanti Style." This is a Pittsburgh thing; fries and slaw are on the sandwich. It rocked. Her family also covered the hotel lodging with Gordy and I splitting a room. I feel like a blessed bum!!!Tonight, I relaxed with Alabama, Hippie, Sun Pig, Ranger, Trail Dawg, Gordy, Impulse and Dutch. We played pool and relaxed. I love The Doyle and I love it even more when it¢s free! Of course, I made sure I thanked Gordy and her family for taking such good care of me. A note about The Doyle: It really is a dive, but I think all the hikers should stay here. The people are wonderful and you can¢t beat the atmosphere. Tomorrow I say goodbye to The Doyle and even sadder, to Gordy. We had a 4-day blast on our southbound excursion and it will seem odd without her. However, I¢ll push on to more spiders, more climbs, more funny encounters and probably more Copperheads. Yikes!Until then, goodnight.Beatbox ttt