Date: 2015-04-14
From: Fontana Dam / "Fontana Hilton"

To: Russell Field Shelter, NC
Miles today: 13.9

Before falling asleep last night, Moosehead, Burnsides, Tick Tock, and me spent over an hour hanging in the men's restroom at the Fontana Dam Shelter. We enjoyed a few beers, good music, and conversation not suitable for this journal as we hung out and charged our gadgets.Another sleepless night would follow thanks to Moosehead this time. His snoring competed with the likes of Jeopardy and Seneca who slept across the shelter from me. It was a loud night for sure, but I contributed to the sounds in my own way and the giggles followed again.We managed to somehow stay in our sleeping bags until a little after 7am as light rain fell outside. Despite the weather we knew would greet us in the Smokies, we had to get going to cover the ~14 miles we had planned for the day. The highlight of the day would follow soon after as we crossed over the Fontana Dam about half a mile from the shelter. Standing at 480ft high and over 2,000ft wide (the largest dam east of the Mississippi River,) it was a sight to see. The trail passes across the dam so Moosehead, Burnsides, and me took our time slowly meandering across and gawking at the height, the engineerring, and the clouds flowing about the towering mountains above Fontana Lake making it appear as though their summits were floating above the clouds.Soon after crossing over the damn, we took a quick picture at a sign marking the southern boundary of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. The next few hours would be spent climbing a few thousand vertical feet out of Fontana, up to a cruising altitude of ~4,500-4,775ft for the day. We passed the boulder jumper area, Shuckatack, Sassafras Gap, Birch Spring Gap until reaching Doe Knob at 4,520ft before the trail gradually leveled off for the next few miles. Although no celebration was held, nor a sign to take a picture of, Doe Knob was officially the NC/TN border so our third state was reached. For the next week or so, the AT actually follows along the border, often flip-flopping between the states during the day. We would then pass through Mud Gap and Ekaneetlee Gap before stumbling into Mollies Ridge Shelter around 1pm. Moosehead pulled off a few miles earlier for lunch, so Burnsides and I fought what seemed an endless uphill climb before reaching the shelter under a steady rain. We allowed ourselves a quick lunch (a Snickers bar and water for me) as we tried to warm up. Hearing that other hikers were planning to stay at the same shelter we were, we quickly jumped back on the trail to assure ourselves spots. We sloshed through rain and mud for another ~2.8 miles through Devils Tater Patch, the highest point today at 4,775ft, Little Abrams Gap, and Big Abrams Gap before reaching Russell Field Shelter.Although my body and mind wanted nothing more than to dry off and rest, I had chores that needed to be tended to first. First order of business was heading down to the nearby water source to filter water and wash my body to a point considered clean for AT standards. I then returned to the shelter, set up my sleeping space, and prepared my dinner. Tonight's menue included cheese and broccoli rice mixed with tuna, 2 bags of trail mix, and another Snickers bar. After dinner I retreated down the slope opposite the water source to relieve myself. The interesting thing about doing this, along with several future shelters along the NC/TN border is that you can enter either state by going down opposite slopes along the trail. I'll be interested to see which state holds most of the "bathrooms." Luckily my first bathroom break since entering TN was on the NC side so I was able to keepwith tradition by using the bathroom in the state I had just exited.I also went for a quick walk about half a mile from the shelter into the TN side and was rewarded with a decent view of Cade's Cove. My last time there was 3 years ago from inside the valley, so it was neat to be looking down on it this time. One of those moments that helps keep things in perspective.Our shelter tonight has around ~10 hikers huddled inside. It's not particularly cold outside, but the rain all day left hikers feeling a little chilled. Luckily this shelter has a built-in fireplace and a small fire has been going all evening as hikers rotate sitting in front of it to either warm up, dry their shoes, or get lost in thought the way you can only do by staring into the flames.I must've drawn the short stick again for I'm sleeping next to Moosehead again. I was given the go-ahead to elbow him throughout the night should his snoring returns.Tomorrow the goal is to reach Double Spring Gap Shelter, which rests over 1,000 vertical feet above my current location at 5,511ft. The shelter also sits just shy of our next 2 milestones: Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT, and the 200-mile mark of the trail. Both will take place on Thursday morning. If the weather holds steady, we may not have much of a view, but hopefully it doesn't dampen the experience. Several of the guys have never been to the Smokies, Clingman's Dome in particular, so I will hope they're able to enjoy some kind of rewarding view at the trail's highest point. Again, it's the small things.Although the AT is a place to sorta reinvent yourself and be whoever you want to be (as long as you don't leave fellow hikers uneasy) some styles conflict and it's key to find that happy medium. Some hikers are more business in their approach to hiking the trail and others are very much the opposite. I've passes 2 hikers in the past couple of days that have been on the trail for 2-3 weeks longer than me and have only made it to this point. Physical ability is one thing and understandable, but others are here to escape their lives and party. Everyone has their own reasons of being here, so learning to accept and respect those whose plans differ from yours is important. The AT is home to people of different ages, life experiences, work histories, IQ's, incomes, religions, beliefs, etc. The beauty in all of it? While each is important and makes someone who they are, it means nothing on the trail. My closest hiking companions so far have been from NC, ME, and NH and have quite the opposite lives than me. Yet out here, with an overall common goal to struggle through and overcome together, it's more than enough to make it work.The last light is fading and hikers are relaxing in the shelter, exchanging stories, journaling, etc. Here's to another day in the soaky Smokies tomorrow.I also learned that Rock Boat made it back on the trail yesterday and was shooting for Fontana. I haven't had an update since, but hopefully he's only a day or 2 back at most. Moosehead, Burnsides, and me are rooting for him to get his legs under him again and catch back up.Cheers from the Smokies.