Date: 2004-03-24
From: Double Spring Gap Shelter

To: Icewater Springs Shelter
Miles today: 13.8
Weather: scattered clouds

Wow - 200 miles down already! The Smokies have treated me really well so far. No snow yet, and lots of grassy balds to soak up the sun. And today, I hit Clingmans Dome - the highest point on the entire trail. It's all downhill from here I guess! (With a couple hundred more ups or so)I had been up Clingman's Dome several years back with my Boy Scout Troop, so I knew what to expect, with the winding tower and all. But this time was clear, and the views were really great. There was even a trash can near the top where I was able to get rid of my trash weight from my pack. I hung around for nearly an hour; the air was cool, but certainly not bone chilling. I enjoyed several snacks as I watched some small birds call in a nearby tree. Around 10, it looked as if clouds might have been rolling in. I didn't want to get caught in any rain or snow, so I pressed on. About a quarter mile North of the summit, the trail turned into a solid sheet of ice, and the ground was covered with snow that still lingered from a past storm. The walking was especially hazardous, and I slipped a few times - luckily, nothing broken! The ice was especially treacherous as it was all on downhill portions of the trail, and I was really careful to step on roots and rocks sticking through the ice. Often I found myself walking in the snows alongside the trail or desperately grabbing for trees and branches to stay upright.The ice yielded to dirt again, although several miles up was another significant patch of ice, this time on flat trail, and with care, walking could be made directly across this ice.As I was running down the hill before Newfound Gap, I landed on my left ankle wrong. I felt a little twist, and a lot of pain. I took a few more steps and sat down by the side of the trail. The dayhikers I had flown by a few minutes earlier walked past as I sat on the side of the trail. Was this it? I had just barely made it 200 miles - ending the dream so early would have been crushing. I got up again and walked through it; the injury was not as bad as it had seemed at first. This same thing had happened to me my sophmore year of college. And the last time it happened, I couldn't walk for a day, but was fine after that. This time seemed less severe.Around 1:30, I arrived at Davenport Gap. The parking lot was packed with dayhikers. It was the first time on the trail I had seen, or been around so many people. Far below, in the distance, was the town of Gaitlinburg, TN. Now, I had heard many stories about Gaitlinburg from past hikers. It was one of those places people either love or hate - yes, it is quite touristy, but there is just about every type of all you can eat buffet imaginable within city limits. I had packed an 8 day supply of food out of Fontana, and so my supplies were fine. I rested at the gap for nearly two hours. My ankle felt fine. I felt no need to experience the bustling, busy-paced life of Gaitlinburg. I decided to head on to Icewater Springs Shelter.While I was waiting at the gap, Chestnut arrived. We talked for a while, enjoying the warm weather, when Guiness, a former thru-hiker, arrived with cold sodas for us. The generosity of people to hikers is really extrodinary. We talked for a long while, and when it started to get late, we headed back up into the woods. For the first mile, there were dayhikers everywhere, but then it thinned out, and it was a pleasant hike up to Icewater Springs. The shelter was full of thru-hikers who were doing easy miles, and except for Quincy Girl, I never saw any of them again. There was still enough room in the shelter, and I managed to grab a spot. Great weather, although the nights still are quite cold.