Date: 2003-04-04
From: Tanyard Gap

To: Allen Gap
Miles today: 8.8
Weather: overcast clouds

How about we just drop right into the action, now that I've got my pocketmail back? Oh yes, pocketmail my friend, don't ever leave me again.I've been based in Hot Springs since yesterday. I literally hobbled into town on inflamed heel tendons. If a body has to be grounded, well, a body could just do worse than Hot Springs. We'd had 16 inches of snow at the higher elevations over the last few days. I can't wait to tell you how I sank thru the crust at Max Patch up to my crotch, but that is for some future telling.Anyway, the slipping and sliding on ice, slush and trail mush aggravated a chronic trail tendency toward heel pain. Next thing you know, this hiker is hobbling like an old lady, little short baby steps.I asked around and was told "well, if you're not going to take a week off to rest and ice them, at least lighten your pack and do shorter miles."So yesterday I got shuttled out to Tanyard Gap with my hometown hiking partner, No Comment, here on a visit. We walked a pleasant six miles southbound down the bluffs to the lively French Broad River, and across the bridge back into Hot Springs.I am staying at Elmer's Sunnybank Inn. Elmer's is one of those AT institutions, he's been offering thru-hikers a special $15 per night rate for decades. In addition, he cooks fantastic gourmet meals, all vegetarian, homegrown from his organic farm. They say Elmer was one of the founding owners of the famous SomeThyme restaurant in Durham, NC, where he was once a Duke University professor. In any case, the man knows his way around the spice rack. Lord, what a curry I had! I was skeptical about the vegetarian thing, but the meal was exquisite and I was absolutely stuffed. Some people can just cook as if it is their mission in life. It's by far the best meal in town.This morning, over a waffles and melon breakfast, a surprise guest dropped in. In fact, here was another noted AT personality, the much-loved Bob Peoples of Kincorra Hostel.With a white mustache and his thick, Boston accent, Bob stands out in the South. He's one of those rare folk who truly loves people. I've never seen Bob meet anyone he didn't immediately embrace with his approval and good nature. Funny thing, people just like him back. It's hard not to like a guy who just likes you unconditionally, no questions asked.Elmer has asked Bob to do a workshop on Trail maintenance for the Hot Springs' Trail celebration, Trailfest, slated for next weekend. I plan to go back myself.Bob joined the thru-hikers at Elmer's family-style breakfast table for a cup of coffee and some trail chat. We learned that the new 19E relo has now been open for two months. This eliminates a very infamously hostile and trashy stretch of trail. Then, some surprising news - the trail is even longer than the 2003 Data Book says it is (2,172.6 miles) "because I told them wrong," Bob said ruefully. "When I wheeled it, is was 3.9 miles long, not 3." So now, by my fuzzy math, the Trail is 2,173.5 miles long. The Trail gets a little longer every year, inching along. Sonic and Guana set off from town this morning. We said good-bye, knowing this is how folks get separated. You think you'll catch up, but sometimes you don't. In any case, I have enjoyed my time with these bright, funny together women, and hope we reconnect further down the Trail.On his way out of town, NoComment dropped me off at Allen Gap. Who should be lollygagging there on their butts (eating "lunch" they said...) but Hotdog and the Wench! We caught up on the news, and then parted company, they to go north, me to hike south.It was pleasant hike with a light pack and cloudy skies, the steep climbs early on when I was fresh and a graded hike over Rich Mountain later on. My heels baked a little, but appreciated the lighter load and less steep climbs. I hurried a little bit to meet my shuttle home, and got to Tanyard Gap early. Now, 285.6 miles walked - yes!!!An hour and fifteen chilly minutes later, I had my lip stuck out - Elmer had forgotten me! No shuttle appeared. I was reluctant still to do the solo hitch thing, especially this late in the day. What to do, what to do?Eventually, a cream-colored sedan pulled up; in it, a man with two Jack Russells riding shotgun. How bad could that be?"Are you my shuttle," I asked hopefully. No, he was a section hiker arranging a car swap with his wife. I got a good vibe from the big man with the two little dogs, and boldly stated my need for a ride to town. To my surprise, he agreed. Little Bingo sat in my lap.Back in town, it was too late to get on Elmer's dinner list, and he is very stringent about that. My lip stuck out further. At Elmer's, I was met by young Paul, one of Elmer's staff. "I'm so sorry," he pleaded earnestly. "I totally forgot you." Paul looks a little like a young Paul McCartney, so it was hard not to forgive such sincere regret. But it's not cool to leave a lone female to hitch home from the highway. I gave him a studied little pat on the cheek that said more eloquently than words "Okay for now, but NEXT time..." I retired to my basement dungeon/monk's cell and downloaded the 98 messages waiting on my pocketmail from the last three weeks. That night, the thunder rumbled and it rained and I was ever so glad I was dry.