Date: 2017-08-19
From: Lakes of the Clouds Hut

To: Pinkham Notch, NH 16
Miles today: 14.9
Weather: scattered clouds

Our little group went back and forth about whether to stay for breakfast at the hut.  We were concerned about how much hiking time we'd lose by waiting: we're usually on the trail by 6:00, but breakfast isn't served till 7:00.  It's a hearty meal: oatmeal, scrambled eggs, bacon, pancakes, maple syrup, juice, and coffee.   We finally decided that starting the day with these extra calories (and caffeine) was worth the cost in hiking time.   Staying for breakfast, we didn't start hiking till 8:00.  We ended up hiking for over 12 hours to reach our endpoint, with just a 20-minute stop at the top of Mount Washington and a 12-minute timed break at Madison Springs Hut.  It was a very hard and long day.This morning, as the croo member was reading the weather report for intermittent clouds and visibility at 1/16 of a mile, the wind started blowing the clouds away, and suddenly the area surrounding the hut became visible.  It was a beautiful sight.  The hut is nestled in a low point overlooking several lakes and surrounded by rocks and alpine vegetation (see photo).  We stepped outdoors and found that the temperature was already warm.  There was only the lightest of breezes.  This was a huge relief!  The Mount Washington summit has some of the worst weather in the world.  Apparently it is located where two prevailing wind patterns collide, so it gets weather that's extreme.  Temperatures as low as -47o F and wind speed as high as 254 miles per hour have been recorded there.  There has been measurable snowfall in every month of the year, and people have died of hypothermia and exposure even in summer months on days that started out sunny and warm.  Near the top of the mountain there is a warning sign: "This area has the worst weather in America.  Many have died there [sic] from exposure, even in the summer.  Turn back now if the weather is bad."  I stopped to photograph Arlene/Staples there in her Annie Smith Peck pose (see photo).  Peck, the 19th century mountaineer, suffragist, and feminist, is one of Arlene's heroes. The hike up Mount Washington was a steady but gradual climb.  When we got to the top there was a line to take pictures with the summit sign.  However, the line moved fast.  We got our pictures taken at the summit sign, spent a few minutes looking at the views, went to the rest rooms, got snacks, and took off again.    The hike along the ridge took us from cairn to cairn over rocks, mostly large ones.  It was difficult terrain to cross, and we realized we'd be lucky to maintain a pace of one mile an hour.  We passed over Mount Jefferson and Mount Madison.  After our brief stop at Madison Hut, we climbed a very steep area that required the use of hands to ascend. We continued on for many miles.  At one point we got a view of a row of cairns stretched from left to right along the ridge that was the upcoming trail.  Each time we came to a cairn we hoped it was the last one, but we were disappointed over and over.  The day went on forever.  By the time we got down to more level terrain, it was dark.  We turned on our headlamps.  While picking our way carefully through the dark, I tripped, dropped my hiking pole, and landed standing on top of it.  It snapped near the place where it telescopes to a smaller length.  This is the pole I ordered to use in the White Mountains, and I've only been using it since Hanover.  It lasted a mere 8 days.  Fortunately, Bobby Joe was using two poles and was able to lend me one until we got to the end of the day's hike.  When we finally emerged from the woods at Pinkham Notch Visitors Center we learned that a Forest Service ranger had kicked out all campers.  As we had been planning to camp nearby, we now had no place to go.  We went inside the center to kill some time while other plans could be made.  I comforted myself with two ice cream sandwiches and another pair of Darn Tough wool hiking socks.  While we were waiting, we ran into Blue Smurf.  He became hypothermic in the rain yesterday and had to be taken to an emergency room.  He was caught in the rain in his down jacket and got drenched to the skin.  (Down loses all its insulation property when it gets wet.)  A while after he left Mount Washington, he realized he was too cold to continue.  He turned around and headed back to the Mount Washington Visitor Center.  Fortunately, one of the employees there noticed him looking not quite right and called for emergency help.  We're now stealth camped at an undisclosed location.  Tomorrow we're hiking up Wildcat Ridge to Carter Notch Hut.  It's 5.9 miles, but Warren says it will likely take us 8 or 9 hours to hike.  More hard work. More hurrying along.  Sigh.