Date: 2015-04-18
From: Cosby Knob Shelter, NC/TN

To: Painter Branch campsite, NC/TN
Miles today: 12.8

I awoke today after another night of poor sleep. I was originally excited about the idea of sleeping in shelters because of the time it saved with setting/packing up a tent, but after 4 nights in the Smokies, I will avoid shelters unless weather is particularly nasty. Sleeping amongst a handful of snoring hikers in confined spaces is too much for a light sleeper like myself.With the forecast calling for nice weather for the first time in 4 days, we were excited to have the opportunity to enjoy our last day in the Smokies. Moosehead, Burnsides, Miles, and me set off just after 7am on what would mainly be a long decent into Standing Bear Farm, near where I40 passes through the NC/TN border. The going was slow at first as we've found it's more difficult to start a day moving downhill vs uphill. I set the pace for most of the day and, while not quite cruising speed, we made good time.We passed through Low Gap and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park northern boundary. On the way out of the Smokies, we enjoyed several amazing 180-degree views that were hidden from view during most of our trek in the mountains. The Smokies tend to make hikers earn a few of their stripes they will ultimately attain while thru-hiking, and I'm happy to say I made it through 4 days of cold, wet conditions and am still feeling strong.We continued down through Davenport Gap, passing the miles by resorting to our game of naming movies certain actors/actresses star in. As we passed through stateline branch and neared the Pigeon River, we were treated to a nice surprise. We descended within feet of a rushing tributary flowing from the mountaintops into the river, crossing it several times in the process. On one particular crossing, a pool around a foot deep rested below a series of small waterfalls that rose at least ~50ft up the mountain. We almost continued walking until I suggested it'd be a nice place for a dip on a hot day. We decided we were making solid time and figured why not. Off went our packs along with our shirts and shoes. We all quickly climbed up ~20ft of the falls where the largest volume of water was cascading over. Although a little too cold to enjoy for a long period of time, we all took turns sitting, letting the falls envelope us in its cool grasp. It was the rejuvinating moment we needed. Even after spending the past 4 days continuously wet and cold, things can quickly change when times are good. Today was good.We continued to Standing Bear Farm, crossing over Little Pigeon River and under I40 in the process, shirtless and enjoying the warmth of the sun we had missed for the better part of a week. We reached Standing Bear Farm a little after ~11am where we enjoyed several hours in a little place seemingly untouched by time. While plenty modern with electricity, water, etc., it reaks of Appalachian charm. Standing Bear Farm is actually a hostel providing anything from public bunks, to private bunk rooms, to even a tree house that you can rent from anywhere from ~$20-50/night, as well as having the option to pitch your tent on the property for $10. Wanting to avoid paying to stay anywhere with being only a couple days from Hot Springs, NC, we decided to just spend a few hours relaxing, enjoying conversation, and charging our gadgets.The farm offered plenty of old books to enjoy, a primitive-like kitchen, an outhouse shower, a laundry room where you have to hand-wash your clothes, package pick-up, and even a resupply store that runs on the honor system - pick out what you want, write down the quantity/price, and leave money. I dumped just shy of $20 on what would usually be fatty snacks (4 Cokes, 4 Snickers, 4 peanut butter crackers, 6 oatmeal creme pies, and peanut butter and jelly,) but out here calories are king. Although the goods are priced a little higher than you'd normally expect/want to pay, it's understandable for the people to stay in business during a busy season that only spans a couple of months. The farm also had a scale which hikers eagerly climb aboard when available. Though none of us knew how accurate it was, I weighed in at 141 with wet boots on. Dependingvon accuracy, I'm down ~ 15-20lbs in just under 3 weeks. That number fluctuates on a daily, even hourly, basis at times of course.I spent the next few hours enjoying all of my Coke, a few snacks, oatmeal from the hikers box (goods that are left and taken by other hikers), nachos made by a hiker, and a few beers provided by hikers Hobble and Frozen Mac. When times are good, so is the giving.Feeling a bit buzzed, Moosehead, Burnsides, and I decided to cover the final 2 miles to our current campsite. On the way back to the trailhead, we ran into Tick Tock who was being picked up to enjoy a little time with family. The final 2 miles were completely uphill and as the sweat flowed freely and our legs ached from the assumption that we had already reached our destination, the 3 of us listened to music and danced our way up the mountain.I'm currently lying in my tent for the first time in over a week. It's nice to have my own space again. Even nicer is camping in between a creek that forks around either side of my tent, only feet away. It makes for easy listening and hopefully a restful night ahead. Moosehead and Burnsides are nearby, journaling or doing whatever they do behind closed tent flaps. I, for one, scored some petroleum jelly from the hiker box and am particularly glad to have my privacy (to apply on raw areas.)Tomorrow looks to be like our second longest hike, roughly ~18 miles, leaving ~13 miles the next day into Hot Springs, NC. Once there we plan to take a zero and allow our bodies to enjoy a little r&r that they deserve from carrying us through the Smokies. Rain is in the forecast again, but knowing a day of splurging is fast approaching should be enough to see us through it. Pulling a "James Bond" (007 - 2 zeros followed by a nero of 7 miles) was also tossed around, but most likely won't come to fruition - not this early in the journey anyways.For now, it's time to close my eyes, drift away with the sound of bubbling water for at least a few hours, and get back to the grind tomorrow.Thank you all a bunch for the support - from likes to comments, etc. It definitely helped keep me motivated through the Smokies.