Date: 2018-05-04
From: Stealth Site - Peters Mountain Ridge

To: Wind Rocks Campsite
Miles today: 17.7
Weather: broken clouds

The day started wonderfully, with a gentle path beneath our feet, coolish temperatures and birds serenading us from high in the trees. The trail here straddled the Virginia and West Virginia border marked by a ridge that extended from Rice Field to Peters Mountain. We had only been walking about a mile when we came upon an area where a Tree Sitter was making a stand against the pipeline that was being run through this area. A colorful sign on our left pointed the way to the protester. Another sign invited A.T. Hikers to join in the cause. A short distance later a couple of large framed tents were located over the crest of the ridge in the same vicinity as the Tree Sitter. I had only taken a couple of steps off the trail in the direction of the large tents when a Forestry Service Official emerged from one of the tents and walked up to meet me. After exchanging pleasantries, I told him I was curious about what all of the commotion was about. We had a casual conversation about the pipeline, the trail, and the Tree Sitters. The official told me that the pipeline was actually being routed through the mountain and under the AT. Although I could hear work activity below, I could not see the pipeline or construction from my vantage point. When I asked him where the Tree Sitter was located he pointed back down the mountain just beyond the large tents. I could barely make out the silhouette of a person perched in a tree. The official also pointed out a small tent under the tree, informing me that it was being used by the sitter's support team. Finally, I asked him about damage to the trail. He responded that the Forest Service did drive some ATVs on the trail when the tensions between the Mountain Valley Employees and the Tree Sitters first erupted. He also said that the ¢damage¢ to the trail and any other areas damaged as a result of the pipeline project would be restored. When I returned to the trail I noticed about a 1/4 mile stretch where the ATVs had been driven. Straw had already been laid over the wheel tracks and I am confident that Mother Nature will take care of the rest. The walk down the ridge was very scenic. Wild flowers and cherry, apple and pear trees are abundant in the area. As I was taking it in, two individuals wearing safety vests and hard hats approached. I thought that they were construction workers. As it turned out, the man and woman are professional Bird Counters and are part of an environmental consulting team responsible for providing oversight of the pipeline project. When I asked if the company was compliant, he said that he had to admit that they were operating to high environmental standards. They, being bird people, and me being me, I asked them for a quick tutorial about some of the birds I was hearing. They shared some characteristics of three species¢Indigo Bunting, Eastern Towhee, and Scarlet Tanager. Before we parted ways they agreed to let me take a picture of the two of them (see photo gallery).The ridge ended at Peters Mountain and the trail began to descend. A short distance further I saw a couple of colorful gals approaching from the opposite direction. When I stopped to chat with the friendly ladies, I found out they were part of the Tree Sitter support team and were returning with supplies. When I asked them what their concerns were with the pipeline, they responded that if there was a leak, gas would seep into the aquifer. That doesn¢t sound good! As it turns out, this is not the first pipeline protest they have taken part in. They were not happy with how the Forestry Service was handling this particular project. They conveyed a lot of information for my consideration. We had a nice conversation and I appreciate the passion that the two of them pour into their cause. Concerned that Which Way might make it to Katahdin without me, I needed to cut our conversation off. They posed for a picture before we parted ways (see photo gallery). As I moved on, the sounds of chainsaws waned, but the songbirds persisted in ringing out their melodious tunes. Which Way had stopped to stretch and let me catch up to her. It was mid-morning now and the sun was breaking through the clouds. With still very little canopy to block the rays the day heated up quickly. It would be nine miles from where we started for the day until our first source of water, so we went into conservation mode. As we made our way to the Pine Swamp Branch Shelter, we walked through a stand of Ash Trees. Sadly, all of the Ashes in North America will eventually meet the same fate brought on by the Gypsy Moth. The Swamp Branch Shelter was actually closed (to camping) due to dead and fallen trees in the area.When we arrived at the shelter there were already a couple of hikers inside. A half dozen more would soon show up. Everyone was seeking refuge from the hot sun. Which Way prepared lunch as I went to fetch water and start the filtering process. We both took our shoes and socks off and put them in the sun to dry.After we ate, Which Way was tending to her blisters, including a new one that formed the day before. When she removed the tape from that blister, the tape caught on it revealing a bloody open wound. She cleaned up the wound and dressed it the best she could, but it was evident that she needed some time off the trail to clean it properly and to let her feet heal. The closest road intersection was VA 235, a gravel road 2.5 miles down the mountain. As she hobbled along we discussed options. I told her that I could take a couple of days off with her, but she did not want to slow our overall progress (we need to complete this journey before Labor Day). In the end, we decided to get her a ride 50 or so miles up the trail while I continued to hike. For a woman who has been referred to as Bad-A, Tough Nut, etc. it was hard for her to admit that it was the best thing to do. WW has demonstrated incredible intestinal fortitude out here, enduring what most cannot fathom. But, this is a marathon, and the goal is to finish together. To that end, it was the right decision. We could always come back to allow her to complete this section sometime in the future.Now that the decision was made, we just needed to find her a ride out of the wilderness. I wanted to call a shuttle, but was unable to get cell service. So when we were about a half mile from the road, I raced ahead to see if I could make some trail magic happen (sometimes these things need a little prompting). There was a parking lot about a 100 yards from where the trail intersected the road. I walked that way in search of magic. Just as I was approaching the parking area, an SUV was pulling out. I motioned the driver as if I had a question. He stopped. Occupying the vehicle was a pristine couple just a bit older me. It would not be easy to convince them to drive a stinky hiker 30+ miles and deliver her to a hostel. My first objective was simply to establish a relationship. As I approached the passenger side (trying not to get so close that they could smell me) I noticed that the wife had a bird book in her lap. Perfect! I introduced myself as an AT hiker and told them I was out here with my wife. I then added that I was an up and coming bird novice (fresh off my first tutorial). I could tell the husband was growing inpatient and wondering where this conversation was going. Just as I thought he might roll up the window and leave me standing in the dust, I saw it. Trail Magic, that is! It was on the ladies collar about to crawl on her neck. ¢Oh ma¢am, you have a tick on you. Let me get it for you.¢ Now that I had plucked a tick off the nice lady, I was in a better position to ask a favor in return. I explained the situation and asked if they would be so kind as to deliver my wife to the Four Pines Hostel. As it turns out, it was in the opposite direction as they were headed and the husband still seemed skeptical. But, how could he say no to the man who just saved his wife from some tick-borne disease.  Just as I got to yes, Which Way emerged from the wild. After brief introductions, I told WW the arrangement and made sure she had the address and phone number of the Four Pines Hostel. As the other woman was out of the car removing more ticks, I took all of WW's food, hoping that would be enough to get me to Four Pines without any re-supply. As the vehicle pulled away, I took a picture of the license plate. Then I had a moment of panic. Would my wife get ticks from these folks?It wasn¢t long after I resumed my hike that, for the first time in over 650 miles, I felt alone on the trail. My inseparable partner was no longer with me. While we don¢t always hike one behind the other, we are never more than 30 minutes apart on the trail. Until now! No time to wallow in it, I still had seven tough miles to hike, much of it over rocks. They were the annoying kind that slow progress and tire your feet and joints. Thick clouds were rolling in and dark was coming early. I stopped at a campsite just past Wind Rocks where two other hikers were already tucked inside their tents. Just as I was setting up my house for the night, the clouds opened up, soaking me and the inside of my shelter. As soon as the tent was up I climbed inside with my pack and started sopping up water with my sock. It was dark now and I opted for a PBJ wrap for dinner. Soon I was under my quilt trying to warm my wet bones. As I laid on my back staring at the top of my tent, it hit me. I am alone.Please keep Which Way in your prayers.I love that tough nut!Peace & Blessings - Next StepElevation Data:               Weather:Ascent ~ 3,920                  Day ¢ 80 degrees / Mostly SunnyDescent ~ 3,260                Night ¢ 56 degrees / Rain ShowersGrade ~ 7.2Over the Horizon: McAfee¢s Knob