Date: 2006-04-15
From: Bald mountain Shelter

To: Erwin, TN
Miles today: 16.9
Weather: broken clouds

Today I was enthused because I was headed into Erwin, TN, where I'm doing 2 zeros at the Holiday Inn Express. Beware Wingfoot users of the fine print on the town maps: "not to scale". I did at least an extra mile to the motel. The motel has a hot tub where I'm babying my knee. In spite of the miles and the long downhill (over 3000 ft elev loss), my knee does feel a little better. I think the hot tub treatment and the two zeros along with ibuprophen, which hikers call Vitamin I, will help resolve the stiffness and heal the sprain I got over a week ago. The brace helps too as it's constructed of an elasticized material like wet suits are built of and it keeps the joint warm. If the knee doesn't come around, I'll head home with Carol for more rest and a visit with my daughter, son-in-law and grandson, then return after about a week. I woke up at first light today about 6, as the other thrus at the shelter, FreeAtLast and IronWolf were packing up. They left while I had a cold breakfast of a power bar, bagel and some cheese; and I was underway by 7:15. It had been warm overnight, but there was quite a breeze so I kept my raincoat/windbreaker on. I started out slowly 'til the Vit I kicked in, and shortly needed to shed the jacket as the sun broke thru the overcast. The hike was on a good trail and after some ups, notably to High Rocks, a viewpoint, came down into Spivey Gap where US 19W summits the mountain. Coming down I saw the white tails of two deer bounding thru the forest. I stayed still and one of them stopped about 50 yds away and we stared at each other for a few minutes. These were the first deer since way back in GA. There was more dayhiker traffic (3 people) headed up to High Rocks than there were vehicles on the highway. The trail from the gap to Damascus, VA has been maintained by Tennessee Eastman Recreation Club for over 60 years. They have done an excellent job and there was fresh evidence of their work coming up from the gap. The rise from the gap was along a splashing stream, with lots of pines and rhododendrons making shade. The temp was in the 70s, and the wind which had cooled me was gone. I decided it would be cooler to stow my hat and use my bandana as a head scarf---motorcycler style. I actually got a sunburn thru the bandana! On the way up a new wildflower in fuschia made an appearance. It is very elegant and looks like a miniature orchid. Pics will be forthcoming. I made lunch at No Busines Knob Shelter, which had been the destination of the hikers rushing to beat the noon closing of the post office today. Iron Wolf was already there nursing his knee with some kind of linament, along with FreeAtLast, who I caught up with at the water source .2 mi back. It was 1pm, meaning I'd made 11 miles in about 5 hiking hours. We had lunch and exchanged personal info. Iron Wolf is 66 and needs the knee he was nursing replaced. He was a teacher in NC and a Lithuanian native, having been liberated by US troops from a Nazi concentration camp. He started out with a 70+ lb. pack, but is down to about 35, having re-geared in Hot Springs. FreeAtLast is 58, from Erie, PA and newly retired, having sold a specialty hardware business he was involved in. Having lunched we all set off, but Iron Wolf soon left us in the dust and before long I passed FreeAtLast. On the long final descent, I passed three day hikers headed up for the view and was "welcomed to Erwin". The views down into the Nolichucky River were fine, and I saw some kayakers playing in the white water. I was listening to tunes on my MP3 player and that helped me keep a good pace. About a quarter mile from the bottom, I met Old Goat last seen in GA making a cell call. He pointed out the motel about a mile from where I emerged at a bridge over the river. I set off down the road hoping for a ride offer, and did get one about .1 mile from the motel. When I got there I saw Carol's car in the lot and had a big smile on my face. I didn't realize how much I looked forward to seeing her. The innkeeper gave me a key card and I walked in all sweaty and disheveled to greet Carol. After I shed my dirty, smelly clothes and got a shower, she showed me the Easter basket she brought and I had a kielbasi sandwich (Polish Easter tradition) and a personally decorated Easter egg, some of the chocolates, and two pepsi's to tide me over to dinner. We went to dinner at the Elms Restaurant having stopped by Miss Janet's, the legendary hostel here, to greet some of the hikers there. Miss J has a full house and I only knew Hui and Gunner, now renamed YoungGun. Miss J is hosting an Easter feast for all hikers. Carol and I will go tomorrow and shuttle hikers from here. When we got back to the hotel, Outbreak & MorningFit were emerging from the hot tub. They had made the post office in time. Also staying here is Afterburner and many others I've yet to meet. Carol and I had a nice soak in the hot tub--me for my knee and she for her ankle (the one she broke in Italy), which she sprained on the return from our last visit two weeks ago. Then we had some private time together.