Date: 2008-07-13
From: just past Thornton Gap

To: North Marshall 
Miles today: 15.6

Today was yet another hot and muggy day with lots of swirling gnats to keep me company. But it was a good day as I had 4 highs in the way of wildlife sightings. The first came this morning--as I was walking along I heard something ahead and to my left and then a bear's head popped out from the brush! He was obviously planning to cross ahead of me, but seeing me threw him off. In the instant I reached for my camera, he was gone, crashing through the forest. I know I smell and look scary, but come on!! Is it really THAT bad? Then I stopped at this wayside off the Parkway called Elk Wallow. I had a fantastic lunch--grilled ham and cheese with chips and a giant, most delicious blackberry shake. Oh! So good. I should have gotten two. Anyway, I went back in after eating lunch outside at the picnic table and coming out again I noticed a luna moth on the wall by the door. OH!!! I know this won't mean much to many people, probably to most people, but a luna most is SO BEAUTIFUL! I have been finding their wings and lifeless bodies on the trail so it was such a joy to find a live one. Luna moths are, in my humble opinion, one of the most beautiful creatures of the insect world: Pale green wings lined with magenta, yellow antennae that look like mini feathers, each wing has a small eyespot that looks hand painted--a circle of gold outlined with black, then in the circle, white and green and more magenta. Lovely. So it was a thrilling find and I took lots of pictures.After my delicious lunch I headed back onto the trail and nearly crossed the parkway when what is that there in the middle of the trail? So close I nearly stepped on it! It's a rattlesnake! Fully extended, unlike the one I saw when I was with Doug that was coiled, this one was about 4 feet and bold, not rattling that wicked tail, but just hanging out there in the trail. I got lots of fabulous shots.He was oh so cooperative! Then! I eventually leave the rattlesnake behind and move on down the trail. Not long after I hear a commotion in the tree beside the trail, look over and there's a bear up there! He sees I've seen him and in the second it takes me to reach for my camera, he shimmies down the tree like his butt is on fire! Hits the ground and takes a few steps away, stops behind a tree, then peers out to check my status. Still standing still of course! He waits a second, then ambles off and slowly disappears. I mangaged to get a couple of pictures though none will be prize winners. Two bears in one day!! Later in the afternoon when I am tired and hot and dragging the sky gets dark and thunder can be heard rumbling in the distance. I know I'm in for some rain and I'm like "bring it on!" I walk on and it gets darker and darker, the thunder getting louder, lightning now. Then finally the skies open up and it POURS! And the thunder rolls and the lightning flashes stream through the forest. And I walk on, joyous. No bugs to deal with now, no sounds except the pounding of the rain. I revel in the cool shower, then so cold it takes my breath away. I stop to put on my rain coat and pants, just to add a layer of warmth. The rain makes rivers out of the trail! Water water everywhere water. It gushes over the gravel, creating ponds and streams where moments ago it was dry. A toad appears in one of the new "pools" and I jump, nearly stepping on the poor guy. I watch the drops as they hit--each makes a splash, then a big bubble, some lasting a few seconds before silently popping. The bubbles are like racecars and I predict the winner...which will get there first. They float a moment, then flash, they're gone! Drops collect on leaves, hang from stems in rows, like jewels on a string. They hang there a moment, then fall. I'm estatic! I'm loving the rain. I stomp along, hitting every puddle, feeling the cold water slosh in my boots. The thunder crashes and the lightning flashes, closer now, the storm right above. And it pours! I walk on, singing in the rain. Why do Mothers tell children not to jump in puddles? It's fun! So freeing is the feeling of walking in the rain, like that vulture I watched riding the wind in the valley. I've talked with many people over the last few days, today as the sky grew dark one said to me" what will you do if it rains?" What will I do if it rains? I laughed! Why I'll do what I do everyday--I'll hike. Only now I'll be cool!!!! Our society is so cushioned, so "protected" so separated from the natural world. We can't go outside because: it's too cold! it's too hot! it's raining! it's snowing! it's thundering! there's lightning! One thing I love about this hike is that I get to see nature in all of her moods: cold, hot, muggy, windy, rainy, stormy, still...it's something that unites everyone of us who've taken on this challenge called the AT. We are forced to face the elements. Some we savor and some we don't. But all are worth experiencing. I love being such an intimate part of the world I live in.