Date: 2006-08-19
From: Almost Garfield Campsite

To: Liberty Springs Campsite
Miles today: 8.6
Weather: overcast clouds

I made myself get up early this morning because I wanted to get over the Franconia Ridge before the afternoon thunderstorms came in. I didn't leave as early as I thought I might, rain already sprinkling in, but on the trail by 7:30. I immediately met a nobo woman named Bama. We had a pleasant conversation about thru-hiking alone and having it be your own hike vs. your hike with someone else's input in it (that is if you end up hiking with a partner). I hiked up to Garfield Campsite and the caretaker there was the guy who flew past me coming down the South Twin Mtn. I inquired about what time he thought the thunderstorms would come in (for instance, in ATL when afternoon t-storms are called for that means you can expect rain between 3 & 5 pm). He looked at me like I was crazy and told me that if I wanted to get across the ridge before the rain, I would have to hike as fast as him. In other words, he was no help. Still at the shelter was Grizzly Bear. So much for his routine of getting on the trail by 6:30. I call him on this and he tells me he is taking two zero days because he doesn't want to get wet. It might take him forever to finish his hike if he keeps up this way. I mean I don't like hiking in the rain either, but I get out and do it. I eat breakfast and read the shelter register. Paul had left me a note. Then it's time to get back on the trail. By this point, I've talked Grizzly Bear in to hiking today. It's not long before he passes me going up Garfield. Garfield is a miserable climb and descent. It does offer a decent view considering that its hazy. I pass several nobos on the way over to Layfayette and the word is good considering the weather on the ridge. I also pass nine trail runners. There is no way you could get me to even try and run on these mountains! I find a great stealth campsite and stop to have some lunch. I find that I am getting more of an appetite these days. Or maybe its just an excuse to stop and take a break. The family that I had met on top of South Twin is making their way from Galehead Hut to Greenleaf Hut. We say hello and exchange a few words. Now its time to tackle Franconia Ridge. The climb up Lafayette is not too bad, but there are many false summits. When I finally get to the top, there are tons of dayhikers up there. I ask one to take my picture in front of the ridge. Then I start going across the ridge. I have good views considering that the weather is a bit overcast and hazy. But I have to admit that after hiking over Saddelback Mtn in ME and the Presidentials in the Whites, Franconia Ridge is not as impressive as I imagined it would be. I mean it is an impressive ridge, I just wasn't as aww struck as I was in the Presidentials. After a while, I think I'm on my way down below treeline, only to find out that there is still more ridge to cross. I stop for a Snickers break. The black flies are driving me crazy. Incentive to keep moving. Finally, it's time to say goodbye to the exposed Franconia Ridge and descend down to the campsite. Boy, did it start off with some butt sliding steep, slick rocks! For this reason, I am ready to be done with the Whites. I know that when I leave the Whites I will also be leaving the big mountains and the views until I get further south, but I am ready for some good ole dirt and decaying vegetation under my feet! My feet really take a pounding on the unforgiving rocks.I make my way down the .3 mile trail to the Liberty Springs Tentsite and decide to stay instead of pushing on. I figure if it does rain, the campsite would be a comfortable place to hang my hammock (there is no shelter there). I meet the caretaker, Anthony, and his dad who has come to visit him and he directs me to a tent platform that will work for a hammock. I end up sharing it with two fellows who are out for a weekend hike. One of them has a St. Bernard dog named Goliath and he is huge and slobbery. One lives in ME and the other in NH, but their accents are undeniably from MA and they confirm that they did grow up outside of B-aah-ston. The one fellow from ME is an architect, but you wouldn't know it to watch him try and hang his Crazy Creek hammock. Since I studied architecture for two years before switching to building construction management, we have some fun laughs about those who can design and those that can build. In the end, he admits that he wants to trade in his hammock for one like mine.Watching them make dinner I can so see the difference between day/weekend campers and a thru-hiker. While I had Lipton Chicken flavored noodles with Mesquite seasoned Albacore Tuna Steak (trail magic from another weekend camper I met), they had tortilla wraps with fresh veggies, humus, salmon, lettuce, etc. It looked delicious. To avoid salivating over their dinner, I climbed into my hammock and fell asleep.