Date: 2008-09-08
From: South Kinsman

To: South Kinsman
Miles today: 10.0

Today was the most difficult day of hiking yet--I can see why so many people have said the daily mileage will drop once you get to New Hampshire. My gosh! It's unbelievalbe some of the things they expect you to do. So many times today I stopped and looked up at an impossibly steep and slick slab of rock and wondered how on earth I could possibly get up that?? It was a day of climbing up and down slanted slabs of rock, of hanging onto trees for dear life, of stepping down impossibly steep stone steps, of placing your foot on a slick rock and crossing your fingers the bottom of the boot would grip and you wouldn't go sliding down 12 feet. It is very easy to see how people end up with broken bones. I am not loving this New Hampshire trail! I did get a late start, but still, 10 miles? That's pathetic. It is hard not to be discouraged and I am wondering when, or if the trail will ever just be a walk in the woods again. Likely not I suppose. Being on top of South Kinsman was fabulous. What a view!!! 360 degrees of nothing but row upon row upon row of mountains, some of which surely I will be climbing and on top of soon. I hiked again with Lead Dog--it is a reassuring feeling to know he is there should something terrible happen. I like the idea of not doing this most challenging section of the trail alone. It is so different than hiking alone and also very different than when I was "hiking" (I say this like this because Doug and I very seldom actually hiked together) with Doug. It makes the time go faster, makes the impossible sections bearable. We arrived on top of South Kinsman just before dark, which was a bit alarming given the difficult trail conditions and knowing then that there was no way we could make it down the mountain and to a proper campground, which was the plan. The rock scrambling, as the guide book calls it, is code for treacherous conditions that are potentially life threatening. So we arrived at the top right about sunset and realized there was no way we could go on. It was wicked windy and cold and we walked on ahead to try and find a spot to set up our tents that was a bit more protected. The top wasn't above treeline, but the trees there were all pines and only about 3 feet high, so not giving much wind protection. The trail further on offered nothing so we walked back to the top where there were two possible spots, one on either side of the trail. Trying to set up two tents under winds of incredible force was quite a challenge! I had to stand on the tyvek and then the tent. Once I had the pole in the loops I slid my pack in there so the whole thing wouldn't blow away. Then the rain fly... what a fiasco! But we managed to get them set up. And then went about making dinner. It was SO COLD! I had to put on all of my layers--including my heavy Columbia jacket I bought for this trip, my mittens, full hat that comes down over my neck with a face opening and then my regular winter hat. I was so glad to have so many clothes to put on. We sat behind some of the mini trees on a bit of an incline, and behind a rock to cook dinner. I had spaghetti with meat sauce and hot chocolate. Yum!! The night sky was amazing--a perfect half moon and lots of stars. It really was an incredible place to be camping. Am hoping for a good sunrise in the morning.