Date: 2007-05-01
From: Walnut Mountain Shelter

To: Hot Springs, NC
Miles today: 13.1
Weather: scattered clouds

Woke up with a headache and my neck and right shulder in spasm. I was in the corner of the shelter on a slight downward slope so I probably spent the night trying not to roll into the wall. I also slept with my head in the corner--usually I face out toward the front of the shelter but this one was too short. Anyway, I also woke up reacting allergically to something--mold, dust, who knows? The two guys who tented cooked breakfast in the shelter and told us they had been approached by coyotes in the night. The coyotes backed off when they shined lights at them. I told them about the bear at Cosby Knob and they said there was a warning sign up there now. I found out that Mathew (the hog-hunting ranger) was dispatched up there the day I left to shoot beanbags at the bear.It was an absolutely perfect day weatherwise. The last three days have been sunny and warm. I knew the first 2.4 miles would be the biggest climb of the day and I would be pretty much home free after that. I lost my trail guide (one piece of it) yesterday. It is the fifth time I have either dropped it pulling something else out of my packet or it has fallen out of one pocket that I don't use anymore when I remember not to because it spits things out. Every other time someone has picked it up and brought it ot me. This time Bloody Nose picked it up but by but the time he reached me it had fallen out of his pocket, too!It was a good day. It would have been a great day if I hadn't been in pain all day. Twice I stopped and took trail breaks along the ridge in the shade. I sprawled across the path with my back up against the ridge like a chaise lounge. The first time I was going to stop for 20 minutes but I was so comfortable I decided I would stay as long as I felt like it. It took a little pain to finally get me to relax.I was thinking about some Buddhist stuff I read once about how life is basically unsatisfactory and we think we are moving toward something but actually we are avoiding pain. For example, if you walk or stand long enough it gets uncomfortable, so you sit down, but you can't stay there either. Eventually that gets uncomfortable too so you get up and move again.Especially since the Smokys it seems like much of the time all I am doing is trying to get somewhere instead of enjoying where I am. Maybe that is the nature of the beast when you look at completion of the trail, especially within a certain time period, as a goal. It just becomes how many miles you can grind out in a day. Thumper said last night that he wasn't sure hiking the trail is supposed to be fun. I am at a point in my life where if something is optional it damn well better be fun.I got to the approach trail to Deer Park Shelter about 4 pm. I went a little way down it for water and still could not see the shelter from there. I was tired and irritable and had made good time to that point, 11.2 miles in eight hours with two hours of breaks. It seemed easier to hike the 3.2 miles to Hot Springs than to unpack, sleep and pack back up again in the morning. Sleeping clean rather than sleeping dirty was also a big attraction, so I kept on going. It was uphill a little ways, then downhill into town.I had a very hard time with my knees even though it was graded well. I am going to have to rest or slow down or stop altogether. All day I was waffling about my decision to go home. I hate being so indecisive. That is something tthat changed about me after my sister Gail died.I got into town and everyplace was full. I met Wolfhound at the motel and he offered to share his and Leatherneck's room with me. I showered, went out to eat(which took a long time) and called Steve. Before I called Steve I had decided to keep going to Erwin. After I talked to him I wasn't so sure. I told him I would decide and call him in the morning.It was a musical day on the trail, with some actual out loud singing going on, along with embarrassment at being caught at it--Rocket Man, The Two That I want (Roaches) and Sun Is Shining (Bob Marley).