Date: 2016-07-04
From: Stony Creek Valley, VA 635

To: Clendennin/VA 641
Miles today: 15.3

Last year I spent the 4th of July in Delaware Water Gap nursing a sore left foot. At that time I assumed I would finish the AT before the end of 2015. I was already making plans for 2016 hiking adventures, such as hiking the northern half of the Long Trail in VT, exploring Isle Royale in the middle of Lake Superior, and hiking the PA portion of the North Country Trail. Obviously, being diagnosed with Type I diabetes was not in my plans. It never even crossed my mind.Looking back, last year I did have symptoms of the thyroid problem (Graves Disease), which I chalked up to age, having pneumonia twice on the trail, menopause, etc. I have not, however, been able to recall having any symptoms typically associated with diabetes. Hiking the AT did not cause the Graves Disease or my diabetes. My autoimmune system has been quietly attacking my thyroid and the insulin producing beta cells of my pancreas for quite some time - most likely for at least a few years. If anything, the intense physical exercise required to hike the AT may have actually helped to prolong the life of the beta cells I have left. So on those days, when I was convinced the AT was trying to kill me (i.e. as I clung to rock faces in the Whites; endured cold, rain, wind, and fog on top of one of the presidentials; or almost drowned in Maine), the AT was actually trying to help me!I thought about the above as we drove from our hotel (the "lovely" Holiday Motor Lodge) in Pearisburg, VA to the trailhead. Today would be a long day - 15.3 miles with no road crossings in between.The last time we were at this trailhead was February 19. What a difference a few months and warm weather makes. I stopped and took a picture of the spot where Rod left me the note in the snow in February to make sure I did not miss the blue blazed trail to the parking lot. Now the spot was overgrown with various green plants and bushes.Rain was predicted for most of the day. I started hiking in a light but steady drizzle. I stopped briefly at the Pine Swamp Branch Shelter to collect and pack out trash. The 1300 foot climb out of the gap was easier than I expected. The trail was beautiful with plenty of switchbacks. When the rain picked up, I stopped briefly to put on my rain jacket, primarily for the hood. I do not like the feeling of water trickling down my neck and back. Otherwise I was very comfortable hiking in the rain. The rain morphed the trail into a small creek, and soon my boots/feet were soaked to the point I could hear my wool socks squish with every step. I just did not care. I was just happy to be back on the AT.I ran into a nice young NOBO by the name of "Done That." We both stopped to have a brief chat in the rain. He was not able to start the AT until he graduated in May. (I would run into more NOBOS who likewise could not start the AT until May.)Despite the rain I managed to find some wildlife - a small snake, snails, and a toad. I enjoyed taking pictures of the wildflowers and fire orange colored fungus. I also picked some delicious blackberries. About mid-day the rain finally cleared out for a while. I took a break and checked my blood glucose (BG). I discovered that it is a little tough to do a finger stick when my fingers are wet and wrinkled from the rain. Fortunately the BG reading was very good and I felt just fine.With the sun out and the rain (at least temporarily) gone, I tried to pick up my pace. I noticed the piles of old bear scat along the edge of the trail, and the very fresh bear tracks in the mud in the middle of the trail. Although the bear did not stay on the trail long, the bear and I were headed in the same general direction.I met Rod at about the mid-way point. He reported seeing a spotted fawn, but saw no bears. I took another break and again checked my BG. As before the reading was good and I felt fine. So far so good.As we hiked along I heard a twig snap off to the right. I looked up and saw the bear, which was several yards off the trail. Rod and I stopped to check out the bear. Instead of running off like I expected, the bear got up on its hind legs to check us out better. The bear eventually retreated, but only went a few yards. We decided to hike on, but I kept looking over my shoulder to make sure the bear was not tagging along behind us.When we were crossing the open fields before Rice Field Shelter the rain returned, this time with thunder and lightening. We took refuge in the shelter while the worst of the storm passed. The 4 hikers (3 thru & 1 section) already in the shelter were relieved when we told them we were not staying the night. They had gear spread out everywhere trying to get it dry. At least one of them had taken a zero at the shelter to dry out his gear.Hopefully the hikers spending the night were treated to fireworks. The shelter has a great view of the valley below.We had a very gentle hike from the shelter down to the road crossing, where Maggie was patiently waiting for us.The AT is calling. I am so very happy to be back. So far, so good!