Date: 2005-04-20
From: Log Cabin Rd.

To: Log Cabin Rd.
Miles today: 16.3

Log Cabin Road16.3 miles (287.0 miles)Maybe I am getting used to the rumbling trains and loud roosters, because I slept great last night. I was surprised at how ready I was to hike out today. It was only a day off, but I felt lazy and I was ready to hike. We had doughnuts for breakfast (courtesy of Moo & 42), along with some orange juice and biscuits from the camp store. Then we headed out across the bridge, and out of Hot Springs. It was actually quite a nice climb leaving town. It was quick and steep, the way I like it. We cruised for about 5 miles to a small dammed up lake.We threw our packs on the ground, and sat down facing the lake. We heard some rustling behind JoAnne, and Pied Piper was intently staring at something behind her. She immediately moved, knowing there was something there. We all turned and looked, and saw a long, black snake slithering down a branch just behind where JoAnne was sitting. It came down very slowly, and made its way across the trail. It stretched out to about 4 feet long. It was actually quite graceful. We watched as it went up onto a hollow log, then poked around inside. Finally, not finding anything, it made its way back up the hill where it came from. It was fascinating to watch for about 20 minutes. But for the rest of the day, we kept our eyes out for snakes.The trail climbed slowly up to Rich Mountain. There is a short side trail there to a fire tower. We went to look for the views there, and met up with 3 folks who had taken the forest service road to the top. Two of the people were obviously local, but the young man did not have a southern accent. In talking with them on top of the tower, it came out tha the had just met him yesterday. We talked for a while about local issues and wildlife. Just as we were leaving, we were told that they were helping the young man, as he was riding his bike across the country. It was a shame we couldn't have talked longer, but at that point the truck was idling, and they were waiting for the young man to get in. But it was a great moment. The trail got tougher for a while, and I was getting tired. It looked like the left side of the trail (Tennessee) was burnt by some sort of forest fire, maybe a controlled burn. But the right side (North Carolina) was green and healthy. We walked for probably 6 miles through this strange mixture of landscape. We took a long break at the shelter, as we were trying not to do too many miles. But at around 5:00, we headed out for a little longer.We came down to a road crossing at about 6:30pm. There was a sign saying there would be trail magic at the second house on the right up the long driveway. JoAnne and I hesitantly approached the house, not sure what to think. Do we just walk up the driveway and ask if they are doing trail magic? There was a man out watering the grass, and he waved us in. We still weren't sure what this was about. His wife came out, and told us to come inside. The two of them had thru-hiked in '99 (trail names: FAL and Hercules). They gave us lemonade and soda. Then they brought out homemade beef stew with bacon chedar biscuits. Just when I thought I was full, they gave us warm brownies with ice cream. It was incredible! We talked and ate for about a hour, which is when we realized it would be getting dark soon. We thanked them, said goodbye, and headed up the trail.We were looking for the first campsite a safe distance from the road. We walked for about 40 minutes, and came to another road. FAL and Hercules told us that the cabin we could see from the trail was a hiker hostel of sorts. Once again we approached this strange place wondering if we would be welcomed, or if we were trespassing. We were welcomed by Nean and Nightstalker. Nean showed us around, and said we were welcome to stay the night (although they'd appreciate a donation). As it was getting dark, we chose to stay. There was an excellent outside hot shower, and a very cool little cabin where hikers could stay. It seemed like beautiful property, although it was getting dark. I am exhausted from our busy day as I write this. We are staying in our little cabin with Rhino (a hiker from Germany who speaks limited English) and his dog Ronja. We have been trying to slow down, but we still put in 16 miles today. It feels good to be able to hike strong.