Date: 2013-07-31
From: Potaywadjo Spring Lean-To

To: stealth camp at Rainbow Lake, mi 2,163.0
Miles today: 25.4
Weather: overcast clouds

Before leaving Potaywadjo Spring Lean-to, I visited the shitter. It was quaint, unlike any seen on the trail. It had a framed in glass window with a curtain, a very home-like decorative touch. It almost seemed appropriate to have an area rug and a can of air freshener. I photo documented this particular privy, and thought for a moment of the many styles of privies I encountered over the last 2,100 miles. One could make a coffee table book on the AT privies. I hiked along a path back down the hill, past the shelter, to a brook where I met up with a hiker who had camped next to the water. I filled up my water bottle and mixed in a small packet of Crystalite. I discovered much later in my hike that flavored water was much more enticing and got me to imbibe several liters a day. I had glanced at AWOL's guide the previous night and noticed that it was a smooth sail...topographically anyway, to Nesuntabunt Mountain, but looks were deceiving. The terrain started out smooth but soon became covered densely by roots and rocks. I thought back numerous weeks earlier to comments made by early SoBo's who complained specifically about the roots of Maine. They were tolerable but certainly not desirable. The climb up Nesuntabunt Mountain was steep and rocky, but artificially stepped in many places, making the climb manageable. I hiked a few tens of yards on a spur to the summit rock, soaking in the amazing scenery, and the first clear view of Katahdin, towering some 4,000-feet above the valley floor. The glistening sun casted shadows over the near-vertical face of this lofty granitic monolith, giving it a two-dimensional appearance. In the foreground was Crescent Pond below. Another hiker offered to take my photo, with Katahdin towering above behind me. After hiking shirtless for at least the mast couple of months, I expected at least a hint of a tan. I was still blinding white, only emaciated, my ribs protruding from my chest. The descent off this small ridge was steep and rocky with many more tree roots. I passed several more south bounders along the way. I was surprised at how late people were starting. I did not envy anyone who'd be hiking in the cold of winter. I hiked by one more young man hiking southbound on my descent down the steep, rocky terrain with interwoven roots. He was wearing a pair of five fingers shoes. I asked him how his feet were with great skepticism in my voice. I'm most certain, after experiencing the terrain that I have to this point, that my feet would have been severely injured, if not broken, where this type of footwear. I had seen two people attempt the entire AT bear foot which is even more ambitious. The trail to the south, only got rockier. Even with a more substantial shoe, my feet were becoming sensitive to the endless roots. I could not imagine the pain he was experiencing. On my descent of Nesuntabunt, I hiked off route a few times, to spurs overlooking Pollywog Gorge. I made it to Rainbow Stream Lean-to by around 3pm. I stopped for some food, before crossing the narrow pair of trees laid across the stream as a bridge. The roots and rocks continued, along with short ups and downs. I caught up to a guy hiking a fast pace. He said he was hiking a section from Rutland, VT to Katahdin. I learned his intentions to summit Katahdin the next day. It was a reminder that my trip was coming to an abrupt end. I savored every moment, but the excitement was pulling me at a fast pace closer and closer to Katahdin. I hiked with him for the afternoon, making good time. By dusk, I had arrived at the shores of Little Beaver Pond. A couple hiking the 100-mile wilderness south, were camping on a small site above the shoreline. They said I could fit my tent in next to theirs. The ground was sloped and covered in roots, but it was the best option. The guy I hiked with, set up camp a short distance down the trail. I cooked all the remaining freeze-dried dinners, including a dessert. This was the last official camping dinner of my journey. Two snickers remained for tomorrow. I had packed just the right amount of food for the Hundred Mile Wilderness and probably could've gotten away with taking only three days of food. I rested soundly after another long day's hike.