Date: 2018-11-14
From: Thomas Knob Shelter

To: Crazy Larry's Hostel, Damascus, VA
Miles today: 24.9

At 5,400' I had no doubt it was to be cold in the morning and it was. The wind had subsided which I was grateful for. I pushed out my rain fly from the screen a bit and lit my stove. After two cups of coffee it was 70 degrees inside my tent, though briefly. As soon as the flame went out the cold invaded my space once again. On my third cup I got dressed fast and all gear ready. I was packed up and on the trail at 6:38 am. The trail was iced. In the distance, bands of white iced trees lined the mountains. I was glad that did not happen where I was camped. Now, thinking about it, my water bottles weren't frozen despite being outside my tent. I actually warmed up pretty quickly as I power walked. A glorious morning. At one intersection with multiple trails I concluded I should go straight. Out in a meadow I saw on a boulder a blue blaze not a white one so I had to backtrack. I'm glad I didn't go that far last night in the dark or I might have been on the wrong trail for who knows how long. The trail went below the summit of Mount Rogers (5,729'), the highest mountain in Virginia, by a few hundred feet. I continued through open highlands with awesome views. No fog today! Later the trail passed a few hundred feet below Whitetop Mountain (5,520') the second highest mountain in Virginia. After Whitetop I stopped in the openness to see if I could check the weather. I knew some rain was in the forecast for tomorrow but it significantly changed. Now there was a winter storm warning from 7 tonight until 1 p.m. tomorrow. Ice and up to 2" of sleet was in the forecast. I was planning to stay at Lost Mountain Shelter tonight then venture into Damascus in the morning. This forecast changes everything. It was mostly downhill to the shelter. I pushed and arrived at 2 p.m. I then decided I can make Damascus by 7 pm tonight. I pushed the next two miles to the Virginia Creeper Train, a spectacular bike trail. Just before the Creeper trail I stopped to shave and wash my hair. It is a town day and I have got to not look like a hiker. I arrived at the Virginia Creeper Trail at 3 p.m. Just as I started I saw two Nobo hikers. Aside from the group at the Thomas Knob Snoring Shelter I've only seen one other hiker since Groseclose. The AT breaks off the Creeper trail, goes to the ridge, rides the ridge, drops back down and parallels the Creeper Trail, climbs back to the ridge, rides the ridge, then drops again to the Creeper Trail at Damascus. With a winter storm warning I decided to do the sane thing and stay on the Creeper Trail until Damascus. Its only three miles shorter but without the pointless ups and downs. The Creeper Trail of course is easy as it follows Whitetop Laurel Creek all the way. The white water through the Rhododendron-lined valley is simply beautiful. I think the Virginia Creeper Trail is the most beautiful bike trail I've ever ridden. I rode the trail twice previously. At 4:30 it started to rain. After dark it rained harder. I had all my rain gear on. My headlamp easily lit up the rain and returning fog though I could only see maybe 10'. My knee was threatening the whole adventure. Pushing hard on the flat surface was causing a lot of pain. At one point I thought I might not make it. I slid the Ace bandage on my brace down from my knee to my ankle. The knee felt so much better and I continued. Two runners went by heading in the opposite direction. When they returned they told me what bar to stop and eat at. I thanked them but my thought was just getting to town and out of the rain. I came into town at about 7:25. The highway makes a shape right into town and there was a Subway. I took off my poncho and pack to go in. I got a Coke, a steak and cheese sandwich and three chocolate chocolate chip cookies. Back out in the rain I tucked my poncho away and went in just my regular rain gear. I walked down the street into town dangling my white Subway bag and Coke. I was heading to The Place Hostel. On the way I knew Crazy Larry's was somewhere. I saw a sign that said "Don't just walk in" and a dog sitting there on a chair. (At the time I did not know it was Crazy Larry's). I could see by the passing vehicles' lights that it was raining hard. I turned left, went a few blocks, then left again to The Place. Unfortunately The Place was closed for the winter with a sign saying "No tenting." I returned the way I came going to the Hiker Inn. There was a sign "No vacancies." I went by the Appalachian Trail Town Inn but it looked expensive so I went to the Broken Fiddle Hostel. I went up the porch and I could see through the door it was packed (I later learned those staying there were seasonal workers in the area to harvest Christmas trees). I went back to the Appalachian Trail Town Inn. I knocked on the door but no answer. I picked up a business card but I had no cell phone reception there. I left my gear there and walked up the hill to Cowboys store. I got reception there. While standing in the rain the phone just rang and rang. I went back and got my gear. I thought I should have stayed at the shelter. I thought maybe head out of town to camp. One more hope. Perhaps I did go by Crazy Larry's. I went back to the house I passed earlier with the dog and the "Don't just walk in" sign. It was Crazy Larry's. I rang the doorbell and he welcomed me in. Sally, the dog, was a sweet friendly old dog. Time was about 8:30. While we talked I ate my sandwich and cookies. Then I got a shower. Crazy Larry did my laundry. No one else was at the hostel so I got my own room. No snoring tonight. The rain is heavy outside and will last into tomorrow.