Date: 2018-11-18
From: Big Laurel Branch Wilderness

To: Coon Den Falls Trail Junction
Miles today: 17.7

Not too cold overnight. The only thing I was dreading was putting on the cold wet shoes. After three cups of coffee I used the remaining flame to heat the insides of my shoes then slid them on. Still damp but warm. I was on the trail at 5:25. One of the other guys was awake as I could see his red night vision lamp. The stars were out again and beautiful. No snow to reflect my headlamp. I could see what either was Watauga Lake or fog above the lake below me to my left. The trail descended steadily and as I near the bottom daylight arrived as well as the fog from the lake. At Wilbur Dam Road was a strange official sign. It said "due to bear activity ... no picnicking, lingering, or camping allowed" for the next four miles. It said the AT was open to hiking but "...for your safety hike through this area and do not stop." Well, if that doesn't make you nervous nothing will. And what's going to happen if I stop? Ambush? Robbery? BBQ? Well, I had to stop and I was on full scale alert. I needed to get clean up before I headed into town. Got to have that fluff in my hair and no BO. The bear can "kiss my grits" (remember that from TV?). Later I hit the road and headed into Hampton. I needed fuel so I stopped at Roadrunner Market but they had no Heet. Then I decided to go to Laurel Fork Diner for breakfast. I got an omelet with everything and it was so good. It came with a homemade biscuit. Everything was excellent. I originally was going to go to McDonald's for breakfast but was glad I stopped at the diner. The waitress told me two places that might have the fuel but I checked and neither did. Also McDonald's only had drive up service so I'm more glad I went to the diner. As I made a loop of the tiny unincorporated town I got a cold cut sub at Subway. Then I went to Dollar General for five days worth of food. I saw a fuel additive there and the young clerk said that is what I can use for fuel. He was familiar with hiker needs as this town is a regular stop, being less than two miles off the trail. I headed out on US 321 back to the trail. It was hot now. I walked in shorts and sleeveless shirt, still sweating. I followed the blue blaze trail up Laurel Fork Gorge back to the AT. A cool breeze coming down the gorge was refreshing. I was hoping I'd get back to the trail at 1 p.m. and I got there at 1:03. I was happy. In town I thought I would not make it. As I headed up the trail I met two Sobo thru hikers. One was Sweet but not the same Sweet I hiked with in Maine. The other I met a few times but forgot his name. He had hiked with Spencer who started the sane day as I did. They hiked on as I stopped at a bridge to eat half my sub. I sat on a rock eating and drinking a Coke. Trail life can be good. I headed up the beautiful gorge. The trail followed right along the creek through Rhododendron thickets. At one point the trail was narrow as it followed along a cliff right next to the water. Then after a slight climb there was Laurel Fork Falls. Many people were at the falls. I went down the steps for pictures then climbed back to the trail which climbed steeply on steps way up to an old railroad bed. More people were coming down the trail to the falls. The old railroad made deep cuts in the mountainside that the trail followed. After crossing the creek the railroad continued out to a parking lot. Just before there I stopped and ate the rest of my sandwich. I crossed a road and climbed for several miles. On the way was a dilapidated old log building and old fencing. I climbed through more Rhododendron thickets up until the trail leveled off. At the junction with Coon Den Falls Trail I stopped for the day. It was only 4:15 but I was tired and carrying a heavy load. After setting up camp I ventured down the side trail to the falls. I went down in 2008 but didn't remember it. As the trail descended I saw the falls from a distance. Then I remembered the trail went way down and circled back to the base. I decided I did not want to do that today and headed back to my tent. A good day and a good town stop. My tummy thanks me.