Date: 2013-09-23
From: Safford Notch Campsite

To: Stealth Camp after Scott Rd
Miles today: 18.5

The wind blew constantly last night. I'm not sure where the moon was, but it kept the woods pretty bright. I got up a couple of times to pee, and each time the lights from Sugarloaf Ski Resort caught my eye. Sometimes you feel so far removed from civilization, but then there's a ski resort....I slept a little later than planned, and then the water that I was boiling to make coffee tipped over so I had to start over. So left on my own, I was a half hour later getting on to the trail than I had planned. I couldn't believe how cold it was. I wore a long-sleeved shirt, fleece, rain jacket, shorts, rainpants, gaiters, gloves and a hat. Even with all the layers it took a while to warm up. Finally I started to shed layers, but I kept on the hat and rainpants all day.There was a steady, rock-scrambing climb up to Little Bigalow. It is a long, flat mountain that a mesa-shape to it. Once on top the trail alternates between dirt, rock, mud, roots, scrambles and flat. I was so glad to have gotten all the views yesterday because today it was socked in. The wind never ceased. The trees shook and bended. The leaves rustled wildly. The ground was covered with leaves that hadn't managed to hang on to their limbs. I didn't bother walking out to any of the vistas, because simply, there was nothing to see. The climb down was on bare rock, but the wind had dried the moisture, thank goodness. I stopped at the Little Bigalow Lean-to. There was a choice of a 4ft-above-the-water log-walk or a rock hop. I chose the latter. I had snack and used the privy (a charming 2-seater with windows, curtains and a real old door), and I patched my foot. I've developed a hot-spot on my right big toe. I spoke in terrible French with a Quebecois hiker. His accent was so strong that I could hardly follow our conversation. The trail flatten out after that as I worked my way down to Flagstaff Lake. Finally below the clouds, I could see something. I could see a large lake with impressive white-capped waves that crashed ashore. Pathfinder had recommended staying here, but it was pointless given the weather conditions. Instead I headed towards the campsite and bundled up so I could eat lunch. My fingers were numb from the cold and my nose is chapped. For the next six miles, the trail was super muddy, boggy and rooty. It was not fun, and my improved opinion of Maine was wavering. I'd expected once the climbing was out of the way I'd be able to cruise. But instead I slipped and slided and sloshed and bogged along. Everytime I got to boardwalk (I used to find them annoying), I felt a sense of relief to be able to take a natural stride. The trail skirted alongside several ponds/lakes. The water was so choppy that I imagined there to be a small craft warning, if watercraft was allowed on the lake/pond. I stopped at Arnold's Point and sat down on a rock to have a Snickers. Today is my first bigger mileage day, and my feet and ankles had noticed. The sole of my left foot is pretty sore and tender. My right ankle feels "tweeky." The trail dried up a bit and smoothed out. I followed along what might have been an old railroad bed. I passed several marshes and crossed a few gravel roads. I kept thinking that I should stop to fill up on water so that I might have better campsite options, but I didn't. I ran out of water and had to walk by several great potential stealth campsites. It started to get dark and late (6:00 pmish), and I was getting a little concerned. I eye-balled a few muddy puddles, but I didn't feel quite that desperate yet. I crossed Scott Rd and decided to push a little farther. I heard water flowing. Whew! I filled my reservoir with some tea-colored water, but I was happy to have it! Then I came upon a beautifully built boardwalk. No moose, but awesome boardwalk. I climbed the bank on the otherside and walked into an evergreen forest. I found a flattened out stealth spot. I pitched my tent. I boiled water and got myself set up for the evening. It's only 8:00 pm, and I am so tired. My phone is almost dead because the battery is so cold. I saw two very cold, very slow moving garter snakes today. I hope to get up early in the morning and make an sincere effort to get to the ferry by 11:00 a.m. Good night.