Date: 2004-05-31
From: John's Hollow Shelter

To: VA 60 Salt Log Gap 
Miles today: 19.6

6:20 am. Woke up to light rain. Last night, there were snow flurries and one loud thunderstorm but no bears. Oatmeal and coffee for breakfast.7:35 am. Started out in heavy rain wearing shorts, rain jacket (no shirt), gaiters.7:50 am. A thunderstorm is ripping through the woods, flashing and echoing so loudly that the bark on the trees seems to jump. The trail is now a small river. Every part of me is soaked. Keep climbing.9:10 am. At Fuller¢s Rock near the summit of Big Rocky Row. The rain stopped 10 minutes ago. I can see glimpses of the James River between the clouds that are forming in the valleys and hollows below.10:30 am. Saddle Gap, near the intersection of Hercules Trail. The trees are quite tall and the forest floor is lush and lit with dappled sunlight. BOB is here for real: the rain is gone. I just stripped off all my clothes and wrung out at least a quart of water (quasi-dry socks are better than sloshing wet socks). Eating a PB&J burrito. 11:05 am. I just reached the Top of Bluff Mountain in bright sunshine. Good views. A few minutes ago I passed a commemorative plaque to Ottie Cline Powell who in 1890, went out to get firewood for his schoolhouse and never returned. His body was found 5 months later on this exact spot, 7 miles from the school. He was 4 1/2 years old. Hikers have respectfully consecrated Ozzie¢s memorial with personal trinkets and coins they were carrying. A touching reminder on this Memorial Day.12:30 pm. Punchbowl Shelter. Hot tuna casserole and a liter of peach ice tea for lunch. Stripped again to let my clothes dry in the sunshine.1:45 pm. ¢On the road again!¢ Refreshed.3:00 pm Crossed Rice Mountain. Rhododendron and Laurels are thick here.3:15 pm Stopped at a spring to replenish water and chat with a SOBO.3:45 p.m. Crossed footbridge below the Pedlar Reservoir and watched a black snake swim across the sluiceway.5:15 pm. Stopped for a PB& J burrito and drank a liter of water. The woods surrounding the reservoir contain a lot of tall fir trees giving the woods a somber, hushed, almost reverent feeling. I was practicing walking ¢Indian style¢ when I surprised a large white-tailed deer (and he surprised me!).5:28 pm. Just turned in a 13-minute mile from FR (Forest Road) 594 to the wooden bridge at Brown Mountain Creek. It felt good to ¢go for it¢.6:00 pm. Passed along Brown Mountain Creek where a community of Free Slaves once lived from 1900 to 1920. It¢s a lovely spot in the yellow opalescent light that generally precedes a late-day shower. This place feels like a sacred land.6:10 pm. Signed in at Brown Mountain Shelter. Was touched by a well-written sentiments of another hiker regarding today being Memorial Day and how we have much to be thankful for and to remember.6:15 pm. VA, Route 60. Light is fading. Showers are possible. Very few cars are going towards Buena Vista.7:35 pm. Finally got a ride in the back of a pick-up truck part way to town with two women. I sit amongst the groceries in the back.7:50 pm. Hitched a second ride in the back of a second pick-up truck. This time I¢m amongst landscapers¢ tools.8:30 pm. Hot shower at the Buena Vista Budget Inn. Oh Joy!10:00 pm. Dinner at Subway, dessert at the Exxon gas station deli. Laundry is done. Spread out my pack in the room to dry and to re-organize.This is how today unfolded on this Memorial Day of solo hiking on the Appalachian Trail.