Date: 2020-07-10
From: War Spur Shelter

To: Pickle Branch Shelter
Miles today: 28.5
Weather: clear sky

It was the worst of times, it was the... well, let's leave it at that. It was a lo-oong day in every way.Jukebox's friend hiked in from Pearisburg, over thirty miles, and arrived sometime during the night. He was cowboy camping in the field in the morning. Of course all I knew last night was someone was walking around with a headlamp, presumably looking for a bush, before I dozed off again. He and Jukebox were still asleep when I left at 7. Earlier than usual, because Sunshine and I planned to go 28 miles to a shelter near Dragon's Tooth, since the next closer shelter was only 18. We didn't think about the humidity.It wasn't long before I hit the first climb, 1700 feet, to a featureless ridge. Within minutes of an otherwise moderate climb I was soaked with sweat and, panting, stopping for a break. And I only slowed down from there. Instead of getting fifteen miles in by noon as hoped, I didn't even manage ten. As I distracted myself from rising heat and oppressive humidity, I noted many rhododendrons are still blooming. A little funny to remember the throngs of people visiting Roan on a particular weekend for "the" rhododendron bloom. You could hike practically anywhere in the southern Appalachians and see them for over a month.After struggling over a bumpy ridge, the trail dropped to a valley, only to release me into sunny pastures and meadows. Beautiful and full of wildflowers, but also totally exposed and hotter than ever. I looked forward to escaping into the shadowy forest as the dry grasses and stalks scraped at my legs and arms. Before I did, I made the mistake of wading twenty feet off the narrow path into the meadow to photograph a flower. When I reached a rare creek to gather water and cool down, I found five ticks on my legs. A personal record!Another long, hot, sweaty, panting, climb to another featureless and waterless ridge. I couldn't drink enough and couldn't carry enough. By the time I reached Niday Shelter on the other end of the ridge I was looking forward to a mid-afternoon nap. Sunshine beat me to it. He was already sprawled out on the wood floor in the glorious shade. After eating lunch I lay on the hard floor myself and crashed. I woke up two hours later to Jukebox arriving with his trademark tunes blaring. We had only gotten 18 miles, and it was already six o'clock.Jukebox told us his friend had looked pale and nearly collapsed in a pasture. Diagnosing dehydration, he left him some water and a salt tablet and hiked on. (He learned by text the friend recovered and hiked on.) That these three, all about 20 years my juniors, were struggling mightily today makes me feel at least it isn't age that wore me down so much. But I still wasn't sure I'd make it ten more miles.We could have stopped, but after a long nap and in the cool evening it was easier. I soaked my head, arms, and legs at a stream to make evaporative cooling work for me. During another 1500 foot climb God mercifully sent a brief, light rain to tamp down the humidity.This last ridge, after finally attaining the summit, was grassy with a smooth, gently graded path. It led to the Audie Murphy monument, honoring World War II's most decorated soldier. I arrived just as the sun set directly behind it. Admirers had left flags, dogtags, a helmet, and other mementos around it.I hiked in the gathering darkness for almost two more hours. Heard animals small and large crashing nearby but could see nothing. The lamp's battery died down and I had to awkwardly attach my external battery while hiking. The cord came down past my nose and clearly wasn't designed for this.Finally at 10:30 - 15 1/2 hours and 29 miles later (including a long side trail to the shelter) - I reached Pickle Branch Shelter in total darkness. Sunshine was still awake. No one else was here. It didn't take long to fall asleep.