Date: 2017-08-18
From: The Birches

To: Mt Katahdin 
Miles today: 5.2

8/18Mt Katahdin 5.2 milesAt 4:53 I rolled over, notes that I was starting to be able to see shapes, and checked the time. I snuggled back into my bag. I had had one of those magical nights in which my pad felt comfy and the temperature was just right. I had been very happy to be asleep. But then I considered how I wanted to be hiking by six, and how long it actually takes me to get going. I sighed and sat up. First thing I dug out my down jacket and put it on. Then off came the wool socks. Still inside the sleeping bag, I stripped off my long underwear bottoms, then slipped on my pants and socks. I shimmied my bra around my waist, then very quickly removed my down jacket and long underwear top before sliding my arms into my bra, donning my shirt, and putting my down jacket back on. Forsaking the warmth of my sleeping bag, I went out to pee and grab my food bag from the bear cable. This morning being an important one, I put all my remaining coffee in my mug and heated up water to have hot coffee. Once that was ready, I had double breakfast - a honeybun AND poptarts. I finished separating out everything I didn't need to carry out and put it in my trash compactor bag. I cinched down all the straps on my pack, picked up my bag, and set out for the ranger station. I dropped my bag on the porch and left for the trail, where I was immediately stymied by a large group traveling together. They stood all together by the hiker register as one person signed them all in. Finally, it was my turn. I signed in at 6:20. With all the dayhikers, I finally had someone to be faster than. I played leapfrog with several, the tortoise to their hares. But finally my stamina won out over longer legs and athleticism. I will take my tiny triumphs where I can get them. I checked my findings with another hiker who had been there before, and the trail definitely no longer goes over a few former obstacles. So much the better, I say! It's still a tough hike, but there is no longer anywhere impassable by short people, or requiring true technical climbing skills. There are rocks piled under the crevice with rebar so you can step up high enough. The crevice I had to jam my knee into to climb it in 2011 is no longer there, or modified enough that I didn't recognize it. Four girls hiked ahead of my all the way up the mountain. They all wore brightly colored jackets in different colors. They looked like an REI ad. It was just so dang picturesque. One of them was the one to take my picture at the summit, and I returned the favor. My picture came out looking very 1930s, 1940s Girl Scout leader. The summit was windy, wet, and cold. It had started raining right before I reached the Tableland. I wasted no time descending as I was losing the feeling in my hands. I knew that I would be warm once I lost a few hundred feet of elevation. The ranger had said the Abol trail was much improved, so I gave it a go. It was so much better that I am unable to come up with a good enough superlative. There was an actual marked trail, for one thing, and it was stable enough that the ground slid almost not at all. A short distance down the slide, the trail now veers west across the mountain, then switchbacks prettily through moss covered boulders and forest. I met hiker Wei right before the trail veered, and we walked together the rest of the way to Abol Campground. He was worried about his friend who had not met him at the top of the Cathedral trail. He made good company for me, though. He's a little trail mad too, and wants to thruhike. We both thought the trail went on interminably in the rain. I was desperate for a privy by the time we finally reached the campground. Once I took care of necessities, I found the ranger station and signed out. Wei told me that if I couldn't find a ride out, I could stay at his lean-to and ride out with him in the morning. I set out to walk back to Katahdin Stream Campground. I couldn't remember how far away it was. Two miles? Three? I wanted to hitch but only two cars passed in my direction, and they didn't stop. I was stunned to find myself there in half an hour. I'm still not sure how far apart the two campgrounds are. I retrieved my gear from the ranger station and walked out to the Tote Road to try my luck hitching. The second car stopped. A hiker I had met several times was being driven out by family, and they stopped for me. I was ecstatic. They dropped me off right at the AT Lodge in Millinocket. The owners weren't there, but when I called they said to grab a bunk. I did, and immediately adjourned to the Schootic In for dinner. I had an utterly fabulous Buffalo chicken sandwich. Seriously, it was a good example of the genre. A couple of Blue Moons went down well too. I stopped at the soft ice cream truck the parks across from the lodge for a black raspberry cone, and all was right in my world. Ole Man and Navi weren't in yet, so I found sheets and made my bed, then took an amazing shower. So much hot water. So much water pressure. So much bliss. By the time I was clean, Navigator was about and I could pay for my bed. Tomorrow morning I envision an amazing breakfast at the AT cafe, and then at some point I will meet up with my beloved. It's a good life.