Date: 2005-09-18
From: Cooper Brook Falls Lean-To

To: White House Landing
Miles today: 13.8

7:41 pm - All Things Must PassTo nobody's great surprise, it was raining this morning. No matter - I hiked on anyways. The trail was surprisingly flat and easy. This is the way Maine should be. The rain even let up, too. This stretch of the trail is really something else. The pines, ferns, and mosses seem even more beautiful when glistening wet. I kept expecting a gnome to step in my path and challenge me, an event that would only complete the illusion of being whisked away to some enchanted fairyland.Even the privies were nice. Two in a row had curtains. No flowerbeds, though.The miles rolled by quickly and 11.4 were done by a shade past noon. It wasn't quite the twelve by twelve of my glory days but it wasn't far off. Ug and I had lunch with Fig and Just Visiting before continuing on. Though the rain had stopped, the skies hadn't cleared and every advertised "view" of Katahdin was just a bit lacking in the actual viewing of Katahdin. Though I've seen it from afar, I haven't seen it close up. At this rate it's not going to appear until I'm climbing the darned thing.Just after passing the caretaker of Horns Pond Lean-To heading south with her dog, I reached the turnoff for White House Landing. Ug was pushing on. We said our goodbyes and I was once again on my own.I followed a twisting blue blaze for about a mile until I reached an airhorn by a dock. Ten minutes after sounding it a boat pulled up. Linda ferried me across the lake to the camp.White House Landing is fairly primitive - most lamps are gas powered, the bunkroom is heated by a wood stove, and the outhouse is just that. But there's a reason for that - the place is remote. Most of the time they bring in supplies by boat or snowmobile, depending on the season. Still, there's no shortage of friendly faces here. Linda's a wonderful hostess.After showering I heard the air horn blast - Pumpkin, Sherpa (her husband), Bug, and Miss Priss had arrived at the end of their 22.9 mile day. I joined them for dinner, downing a cucumber and tomato salad, a slice of pizza, a one pound cheeseburger, and a pint of Ben and Jerry's ice cream. The hiker appetite is a wonderful thing. Everyone put away quite a bit of food, even the section hiking British couple who were also present, Jon and Rachel.I appear to have the bunkhouse to myself tonight - everybody else has private rooms or cabins. I'll treat it as my own private room, I guess.If all goes according to plan, I'll be finished with the Appalachian Trail in less than ninety six hours. It's a bit scary being this close to the end. I've lived on the trail for nearly six months. Part of me doesn't want it to end, but part of me is ready for it to be over. It's weird - it doesn't feel like I'm almost done. A lot of people talk about getting emotional toward the end. Maybe the finality hasn't sunk in yet.My life and the trail have become intertwined; my life has been the trail life for what seems an eternity. It's going to feel strange to leave this all behind, to say goodbye to so many friends that have become so dear to me. All things must end, but this has been an experience that I'll always remember. My life will be divided into pre-trail and post-trail. Distance hiking doesn't change you; it merely allows you to become who you were meant to be.