Date: 2003-08-17
From: Speck Pond Campsite (3440') 

To: Frye Notch Lean-to (2280') 
Miles today: 10.4

Aloha! My oh my... what a beautiful day! Every day just keeps getting better and better. Today was no exception. This hiking stuff is so cool!   Nothing new in the direction category. We started immediately UP and continued that way until we hit the top. Not a hellaciously hard climb but a substantial one nonetheless. Along the way Coffee offered Gutsy a chance to try a lighter pack (his) and give her aching knees a rest. They switched packs. Coffee carries around a 30-pound pack where, as you know, Gutsy's is in the low 40s. The end result of the exchange was Coffee believes Gutsy to be a far stronger gal than he originally would have thought and he much preferred to carry his own pack. Gutsy on the other hand is now a convert to the lightweight mentality... right after Katahdin. Coffee did look like he was struggling now and then and he's no weakling. Gutsy isn't either.   Approximately a quarter of the way down from the top, I had an awesome surprise - Pizazz hiking uphill to meet us! Her appearance was only somewhat of a surprise since the last we spoke she had mentioned possibly coming out to meet us. As always, it was great to see her. She immediately turned around and joined us on the trek down the mountain. Nice to have her along.   The hike down from Old Speck Mountain consisted of a long but relatively gentle 2682' descent to Grafton Notch. Ambling along next to cascading falls and chatting with Pizazz made the day even better than it already was. Poor Coffee, he probably thinks he was totally forgotten upon her arrival. Not intended of course; just happens. Upon our arrival to the parking lot, Pizazz surprised us with a hellacious luncheon spread. Fit for kings and queens - tomato basil and wheat tortillas, bean salad, fresh tomatoes, carrots, lettuce, oranges, grapes, apples, cheese, cottage cheese, water, soda, juices, milk, fresh, fresh, fresh! She is a saint! She even put a cooler beside the trail for any other long distance hikers coming through. It was appreciated by many. I heard the thank-yous yelled from passing hikers. Anyway, with Gutsy and Don arriving shortly after us there was little to nothing left by the time Pizazz departed. Again, she is a saint! And we all thank her profusely.   Gutsy had pretty much determined early in the morning that she was going to hike to Grafton Notch and then attempt to hike into either Andover or Bethel to get something for her knees. They were killing her again. With Don Q making suggestions in one direction and Pizazz offering others in another direction, it was obvious Gutsy was well taken care of. The end result was Pizazz was taking her to Andover and probably The Cabin, a friendly hostel run by Margie and Earle Towne (aka Honey and Bear). We will see her tomorrow when we hike into town for our reservations at the same place. At least I hope we will. Poor Gutsy though... this knee thing has got to be driving her nuts. I know it would me.   As we were packing Pizazz and Gutsy's stuff back into the car, I had another pleasant surprise. (There really is one around almost every corner.) Tapeworm! - Don's son. Tapeworm and I met back in '01 early on in our quest for the Big K. He had been hiking with two other hikers he met on the trail (Raven and Tripsalot) and they were quite the team. I referred to them as the Three Musketeers but lovingly so. They were all such a hoot. We often played Tortoise and the Hare with them racing ahead and me plugging along to find them snacking or relaxing. I would pass and shortly thereafter they would fly by in perfect synchronization. Great guys. It was wonderful to see him again.   Tapeworm never did complete the trail. He left the trail on September 11, 2001 at Grafton Notch. A a former active Marine and then active reservist he believed he should return home and spend time with his fianc©e in case he was recalled to active duty. He left immediately. He never was recalled but has since married. Joining his father at this point in time is both memorable to having started the trail with Don Q and continuing his earlier Grand Adventure. It's great to know such an awesome guy.   After Pizazz and Gutsy's departure Don stayed to enjoy his family (son, daughter, son-in-law, and grandson) and Coffee and I began our very long UPward hike on an excessively full stomach. It took forever to get to Baldpate Lean-to! What's that thing about not expending energy at least 20 minutes after eating? It doesn't apply to just swimming I assure you!   After a raspberry picking session right in front of the shelter, we were on our way to here. Oh my, my, my, my! I thought the last two miles of 1500' climb was bad so this one was hell! First a 1000' plus climb in a mile, a slight down and then UP again another 400'. It was a huffer and a puffer! But oh so worth it!   The top was once again above the tree line. Totally different though than what I've been experiencing. This reminded me more of Arizona and New Mexico terrain. Don't really know why but it did. Absolutely gorgeous! Breathtaking views. Rock slab balds. It was hell getting there but oh... so worth it! Magnificent!   The only part of this that wasn't great was when the rainstorm hit while we were at the top of Baldpate Mountain's East Peak. Large, flat, sloping, slick rocks had to be crossed to get down below the tree line. It was slow going getting down and even so after we hit the tree line. Luckily it didn't last long but it was long enough to make everything a little scary and dangerous. Obviously we made it all in one piece. This was a good thing.   I'm sheltering tonight because I couldn't find a flat tent site. The few that I did find are UP hill and would make for slip sliding around all night. That may just be an excuse because I'm tired and really don't want to mess with it but that's beside the point. I'm sheltering tonight with Coffee, and NOBOs Notes and Big Paw. Squeeze over boys, I'm coming in.For you, all I have left to say is... aloha and goodnight.BSandTs: nothing but the normal huge amounts of sweatAandPs: whole body is tiredMandGs: never enough time with my phenoms...waah!Critter count: I don't even remember. Nothing exciting for sure.