Date: 2019-06-05
To: Front Royal, VA
Miles today: 107.8

Immediately after leaving Waynesboro, I entered Shenandoah National Park (SNP), which includes over 100 miles of the AT. Initially concerned about constraints within SNP, it instead became some of my favorite trail so far: the elevation changes were more moderate, two park campgrounds I stayed at had showers, laundry facilities and resupply, and it had waysides (restaurants) near the trail. Although allowed, there are not many campsites for stealth camping. Nonetheless, the first night I did so, carrying an extra 3 liters of water for 6 miles, because that allowed me to use shelters throughout the rest of the park at 13-15 mile intervals. My stealth camp wasn't stealthy enough, however, because a big black snake crossed the trail and infiltrated my camp. I defended my camp with honor and valor, and the snake eventually moved into the underbrush.I caught a few evenings of rain after my tent was put up. There was also a shower while hiking one afternoon with Gator, the same day we passed the 900 mile mark. Finding those marks every hundred miles, made of sticks and stones by other hikers, has been fun and a cause for celebration along the trail, and something I look forward to.Shenandoah is known for their dense bear population (meaning they have a lot of bears, not that the bears are stupid!) Leaving a campground one morning, I hadn't gone far on the trail when I saw my first bear, a cub. Maybe it was older, because I didn't see momma bear...or maybe she was in the bushes and too busy texting her BBF (Best Bear Friend) about how her cub is driving her crazy. I snapped a picture before the cub disappeared.I caught a nice breakfast at the famed Skyland Restaurant, and the next day caught a hamburger and famed blackberry milkshake at Elkwallow Wayside. Unfortunately, both came with consequences, what I now refer to as town food, something that affects other hikers as well but ravages me. Trail food doesn't give me enough calories but keeps my system regular. Town food gives me a lot more calories - calories I need - but puts my system into overdrive. Each town food meal now seems to be associated with one or more trips to the bathroom, and it is particularly inconvenient if you are leaving town. At times you want to say in exasperation: "that will be enough out of you!" Leaving town now generally means that I am leaving with one sore arse. (You learn the most interesting things in trail journals, don't you?)Small World Department: While hiking one day, a young man approached from the other direction wearing a Rochester Red Wings cap, the minor league baseball team back home. I stopped him and we chatted, finding out that he lives about four miles from my home, and that one of his neighbors, Kyle, is a favorite colleague of mine from my teaching days. Hundreds of miles from home, and we found this connection.Time on the trail this week was spent reflecting on comments offered from Bruce about the commitment required to thru-hike, as well as words of encouragement from Wendy, my younger sister. My confidence seems to wax and wane rather than grow. I am reminded of words my father once told me: "It is not enough to just know something. You must know you know it." In other words, be confident in your knowledge. I am seeking that confidence.Shenandoah has a unique feature: rather than signs telling you trail info, it has concrete posts with 1 inch metal bands with info stamped on them. It probably sounded like a good idea to the armchair bureaucrat who approved them, but if you forgot to bring your reading glasses to SNP, you're SOL ( s**t out of luck)!Milestones included passing 900 miles, hiking the length of SNP, and seeing my first bear cub (along with numerous snakes).New hikers met include Gator (FL), Supergirl (TX), a trio (Matt in a Hat, Onward, and Captain Insano) sponsored by Warrior Expeditions, spouses 5 o'clock and Fireball, Monk and Walden.My thanks to those who have signed my guestbook. I find your comments encouraging.