Date: 2018-09-04
From: US Hwy 302 at Crawford Notch

To: Kinsman Notch (NH Hwy 112)
Miles today: 44.0
Weather: scattered clouds

I'm finally taking a zero, after 10 straight days of hiking.The descent down Webster Cliffs was terrible. Especially after all of that nice trail from Washington all the way down to where the AT leaves Crawford Path. I trust my life--or at least my face--to carbide on granite. It gets tiresome.At Crawford Notch, the US 302, I met NOBOs Thumper and Skywalker, and we hitched to the Crawford Notch General Store and Campground for showers, laundry, and resupply. Although not known as hiker friendly, they are listed in the book and I had no problems besides being charged a $15 surcharge for a 1 night stay. Having managed a motel before, I understand that policy is policy and I don't act like an entitled day hiker.The next day, as I was trying to hitch out, the owner and his wife gave me a lift back to the trailhead in their pickup truck. Very nice people.This was a nearo and I only made it up to Ethan Pond Shelter. The AMC caretaker, Taylor, was a badass outdoorswoman who was into alpine climbing more than hiking. She hung around the shelter talking to Big Red, Cosmic, a couple of other NOBOs, and myself. We agreed that it was possible to resupply on Mt. Wash, which I didn't do but should have. Later, I met Alchemist, who would have been interesting to talk to had he not left early the next morning. How often do you run into another alchemist?All of the AMC campground caretakers were great. Guyot was staffed by Chef Boyardee, SOBO 2017, a very smart physics student. Garfield Ridge had Rachel, friendly and nice but less interested in fraternizing with hiker trash. Another SOBO was at the shelter. It was 127, who started at the Big Kahuna on August 17th and passed me that day. Amazing.At Crawford Notch, I had resupplied as best I could (its possible) but weighed my gas and decided against carrying another cylinder. That was a mistake, since I had to ration strictly and the huts and campgrounds didn't have any abandoned gas. At Garfield Ridge, Jingle had given me some miso soup but I could only make the broth, not the noodles. I survived largely on Snickers and Clif Bars. At one hut, I bought 10 Snickers for $20. At another hut, the volunteer wouldn't let me charge the soup and cake to my credit card. I told him that all I have is money but can't spend it on anything I actually need.When I got to Franconia Notch, it was Friday of Labor Day weekend and everything was full. I was already dying for a zero but unwilling to try to shuttle or hitch 40 miles to a motel charging $280 a night. I "resupplied" with Snickers and Clif at the annoying Flume VC, stealth camped at a river a couple of miles in, and the next morning pushed on to Kinsman Notch. I got reservations for the 3rd and 4th at The Notch hostel.The Whites are breathtaking but the day I got to Kinsman, I hated them. For ten days I chilled in my own sweat and was desperate to get into a town. A NOBO and I hitched into Lincoln early and were saved. The locals complained about the heat, but for me it was a dream come true to be warm and dry(ish) again. Camel likes the heat.Today, I already feel better. Only Moosilauke stands between me and nicer, faster trail. Tomorrow I'm going to slackpack over it and meet up with Trout (NOBO 2017) over in Glencliff, where we'll catch up on each others adventures since Stratton.