Date: 2006-07-28
From: The Birches - Katahdin Stream Campground

To: Baxter Peak, Mt. Katahdin
Miles today: 5.2
Weather: overcast clouds

DAY 144: Today I am walking for the glory of God, to thank Him for keeping me safe so far and for creating such a beautiful, awesome natural world. All praise and credit to Him.A shower fell last night for about 20 minutes, but the morning felt like a clear day ahead. A mist was moving around and the clouds seemed to be thinning overhead. I woke up at 4:25 and got up immediately. After packing two packs (mine and the Park's day pack) and getting water, I was on the Trail at 5:50 AM. About half the ascent is below treeline and half above. Unfortunately, the clouds were so thick we had no views above the treeline: that might have been fortunate - on the way back down I saw how steep some sections were - demoralizing to to those climbing up. Glenn caught and passed me above treeline; Slow Leak caught me further up, and we walked the last two and a half miles together. I was really slowed by my trekking poles. They're no good for bouldering; in fact, they're a nuisance. The climb up Katahdin was similar to earlier ones. Below treeline the Trail was narrow, with a lot of bouldering requiring pulling up by hand. Above the treeline the Trail was most like the Whites or Lehigh Gap - extreme rock climbing for about a mile and a half. About 1.6 miles from the summit the Trail reaches a flatter area called the Tablelands, where the steep climbing is over but rock-hopping is still required. The size of the Tablelands wasn't apparent until the clouds began to break up a little on the descent - acres and acres of open terrain, with just rocks and some ground cover. The difference from any earlier scene was striking.Just before we reached the summit, Slow Leak (Bob Miller) stepped aside and let me lead to the top. He doesn't consider himself a true thru-hiker since he started this year at US 19-E near Roan Mtn., and he was deferring to me. What an unselfish, respectful person! I wish I had met him sooner and could have walked with him more.When we actually summitted I was surprised by the relative lack of emotion or exuberance I had. I was certainly pleased and relieved, but I also knew I had to turn around and climb down 5.2 miles of rocks, which tempered the enthusiasm a lot. Going up took me 4 hours; coming back down was 3 hrs., 20 minutes. According to the sign-in register at Katahdin Stream Ranger Station, I was #47 among 2006 NOBO thru-hikers to summit; I was #68 to sign in at Harper's Ferry back in May.We met lots of day hikers, both on top and on the way down. Many obviously didn't realize the time and effort that would be needed to reach the top. Several families with young children looked completely unprepared.After reaching Katahdin Stream Campground I really felt like the hike was finally over - that's when the sense of being finished struck me most. However, I wasn't quite finished, I found out. After transferring the daypack gear to the regular pack, I headed out to hitch a ride to Millinocket. Lots of cars were coming into the park on Friday afternoon, but not many were leaving. For almost an hour I walked along a one-lane gravel road, carrying a full pack, getting caught in a downpour, and watching only 2 full cars drive by going my way. It certainly wasn't a "conquering hero's welcome". Finally a BSP Ranger picked me up for a while,which got me ahead of the rain. Soon afterwards a couple (David and Kathy Page) picked me up. As we were loading my pack in the back of the truck, David asked if I would like a cold Corona - duh! They were heading right into Millinocket and were such interesting people. They had lots of good advice on where to stay, where restaurants and the post office were, how to get to Medway and Bangor, etc. They were also very interested in my trip and peppered me with questions, which I was more than happy to answer. They drove me right to the AT Lodge in downtown Millinocket. What great Trail Angels! Thanks so much, Pages.At the AT Lodge (an older building that looks like it was originally built as a boarding or rooming house) I was given the favorite room of Earl Shaffer, the first person to thru-hike the entire AT in one seaon. On the door is his picture from his last stay in 1998. He died in 2002. Less well-known but just as welecome was Tom, whom I had walked with some in New Hampshire and southern Maine. He is spending two or three days here, waiting for his sons to come up on the 31st to climb Katahdin with him.After unpacking and showering at the AT Lodge, I walked down the street about half a block to a laundromat with a restaurant next door - even had a connecting door. While my filthy, stinky clothes were washing and drying, I was able to eat a couple of sandwiches (excellent) and watch CNN (depressing). Later in the evening Tom and I walked back down for dinner in a light shower, but we're used to walking in the rain, so "no problem".Before I close today's entry, I want to pay a compliment to Don, the owner / proprietor of the AT Lodge. He is genuinely dedicated to being a good host to hikers. He advised me on cab rates and travel times to Medway and even called the cab to pick me up in the morning. I heartily recommend the AT Lodge to future hikers.So, with what stunning prose do I summarize this entire trip? How do I eloquently describe its completion? I'm relieved it's finally done, looking forward to going home, and also proud of what I have accomplished. I am so grateful to many people for supporting me, especially my terrific wife Jane, my mom and my sister Mary Dew, and hundreds of Trail Angels and other friends like Jeff and Beth and Olivia Anderson, who befriended me back in New Hampshire on their vacation. Thanks to all of you. Be assured that you will not have to go through this again with me. I'll close with the best advice I can offer to future hikers - have fun, go into towns and hostels frequently, keep walking every day, be loyal to hiker friends you hook up with, and above all, keep your toilet paper dry. It's been a lovely cruise.Mango28 July 06GAME '06