Date: 2005-05-28
From: Rod Hollow Shelter

To: Bear's Den Hostel
Miles today: 9.9
Weather: broken clouds

Rod Hollow Shelter to Bear's Den HostelIt's amazing how easy it is to fill up a day on the AT regardless of whether we're hiking 19 miles or 9.  We indulged this morning and slept in till almost 9.  Oh, it felt so good too.  I think that was the best sleep I've had in weeks.  The watch alarm went off sometime after 6 and we just ignored it and slept right through.  Glory.  Pure grace was that wonderful, endless deep sleep.  We had "breakfast" in bed and took joy in the blue skied morning awaiting us.  As we munched our breakfast bars I took a look see at what the guidebook said was in store for our short 9 miles today.  I looked it over and smugly announced that we had no climbs greater the 300 ft.  Then Gravity reminded me that we were actually about to go through a section of trail called "The roller coaster."  Doh!  Here I thought it would be a smooth and easy day when in fact we have ten consecutive ascents and descents straight up and over 10 viewless peaks over a distance of about 13 miles.  We'd been hearing about, and perhaps dreading a little, this infamous section of trail.  Well, at least it is over a short day.We'd covered about 3.5 miles and 3 of the climbs when we ran into Method Man and Rza (Daisey and John) and decided to join them along side the trail for a break.  We had a snack and a chat and as we did so the sky began to darken.  Everyone finished up and got going.  It started dripping a little about 15 minutes later.  Gravity pleaded with the skies for a downpour so he could test his super lightweight summer rain/wind breaker.  Within 20 minutes he got just what he asked for.  The sky opened up and poured.  The jackets performed OK.  As long as it stays in the 60's and above they'll probably do OK, though they do wet out rather fast.  But, at three ounces, the Houdini is a lot better than the 10 oz Integral Designs jackets that failed on us.  We'll see though.  I still think I need a "real" rain jacket so hopefully we will be able to get the ID ones replaced soon.We got to Sam Moore Shelter as the rain was tapering off.  There was a group of Boy Scouts huddled under the cooking area and the hikers we'd spent the last couple of nights with were snacking in the shelter.  We joined the hikers and enjoyed a long break joking around and watching the Boy Scout group set up tents which provided entertainment for the duration of the break.The last three miles to Bear's Den Hostel came fast, despite a steep climb.  We were greeted royally by the caretaker Lori who is a soon to be trail legend with her generous nature and jolly disposition.  Definitely the high point of the day was the enormous dinner Lori put on for the hikers and other guests.  This spread rivaled the home place and is a treat that I will always remember.  There were two banquet tables seating 22 people and both were covered end to end with grilled chicken, macaroni and cheese (the homemade good kind) garlic bread, green beans, bean dip, chips, guacamole, salad and more that I can't remember, all homemade.  Dinner was followed by cookies and pineapple upside down cake for desert.The grand finale for the evening was watching the sunset from Bear's Den Rocks.  All in all a fabulous day.Danger