Date: 2021-05-21
From: Wapiti Shelter

To: Woods Hole Hostel
Miles today: 7.2
Weather: scattered clouds

A big setback, physically and emotionally.But first, let me finish out yesterday. I didn't mention in yesterday's journal entry that Wapiti Shelter is reputedly haunted! I didn't find out until after it was too late to leave. I wouldn't have left anyway, for all the reasons I mentioned yesterday, and because as a Christian I trust in God's protection and can't be bothered by old wives tales (that phrase is not very PC is it?). Nevertheless, I was perhaps even more uneasy than usual at the idea of camping alone. Not to worry, though, I ended up with four young male shelter-mates and all was well, even though one of them had the worst potty mouth I've ever heard. He really needs to improve his vocabulary! The night was fine.Another small landmark--today I passed 100 miles on this hike!Then today. The good news is my calf didn't hurt at all. The day started with a two and a half mile climb, as is usual, and the weather was lovely and cool. My mileage choices for the day were seven miles to Woods Hole Hostel, an AT landmark that I really wanted to see, or nine miles to the next shelter, which would leave me better set up for tomorrow's hike into Pearisburg. I decided to go to Woods Hole, stop, visit, have a cold drink, and then go on to the shelter, unless I was really worn out, in which case I would stay. A good, sensible plan for the day.  The two and a half mile climb, with an elevation gain of 1307 feet, was much harder than I expected. The temperature was only about 75 degrees, but I felt like it was 90, and the sweat was rolling off me. I thought I would never get to the top, and when I did I was out of breath and drenched in sweat. I had phone service at the top, which I hadn't had all day yesterday, so I stopped to call Mike. I told him how hard the climb had been, and how at a couple of points I felt lightheaded with numb lips, which I attributed to breathing so heavily that I was near to hyperventilation. I was glad that the rest of the day's hike was on more level ground, and I wasn't worried.But I didn't get better as I stumbled on. New symptoms came on. I couldn't catch my breath, at all. The facial numbness got worse until I felt like my whole face was vibrating. My trekking poles seemed to not be working well, sliding this way and that. I couldn't think clearly, but I knew that I couldn't, and that something was wrong. My overriding concern was to get to the hostel. I knew if I passed out on the trail I would fall, and the trail was very rugged and rocky on that section. I hadn't seen any other hikers all day. What if I passed out, I thought, and a bear came along and wanted the food in my backpack, which was tightly attached to my body? I stumbled on, symptoms worsening. I stopped sweating. I figured i was about a half mile from the road to the hostel, and saw a double white blaze on a tree. That was good news! A single white blaze means you're on the trail, and a double white blaze means there's something coming up to look out for. The road! I was closer than I thought! But, no road. The next blaze was double too, and so was the one after that. Eventually I realized I was seeing double, double trees, double rocks, double blazes. I found myself standing still on top of rock scrambles, unsure how to proceed. Where were my feet supposed to go?In spite of my confusion I got scared. I didn't want to call St. Mike and worry him, but I didn't know what else to do, so I called him. He was great, stayed calm and gave me very specific instructions on what to do, things I should have known, but I was prioritizing getting to the hostel, not treating myself. Following his step by step directions I sat right down on the ground, wet a bandana and washed my face and neck, and drank water. He called me back ten minutes later and my breathing was returning to normal. I got up and walked a little farther until the symptoms returned, then I sat down again. I spoke to him by phone every ten to fifteen minutes, and in this slow fashion I made it to the hostel!I had a cool shower and a long rest and the symptoms subsided, except for nausea, extreme fatigue, and muscle cramps.  I'm feeling much better now. My plan is to rest tonight and reassess tomorrow morning. My son Ben had planned to come visit me this weekend, so that's a good excuse to take a zero tomorrow.  I have the whole bunkhouse to myself tonight, and I'm glad. I'm not feeling very social, for sure!