Date: 2014-06-27
From: Eliza Brook Shelter

To: Greenleaf Hut
Miles today: 15.2
Weather: light rain

Today was one of the most difficult days I have had so far on the trail. Thankfully, it was also one of the most rewarding. We started the day hiking with three fellow hikers: Bebop and Sascrotch, two fellow Georgians finishing a final section hike to Katahdin; and Cool Breeze, who Birdman and I have seen many times in the shelter registers. Together, we forded several flooded creeks (from yesterday¢s downpour) and climbed almost 2,000 feet to the peak of Kinsman Mountain (4,358 ft.). By the top of the mountain we had all left Cool Breeze behind, and during the long, arduous descent, Birdman and I were quickly left behind by Bebop and Sascrotch. They simply flew down the mountain, and for the first time in a long time, Birdman and I genuinely felt like slowpokes. Around 10:00 AM, I thought I was going crazy when I started to smell coffee in the middle of the woods. I was relieved when Birdman smelled it as well, and we soon identified the source when we stumbled upon Lonesome Lake Hut. The huts in the White Mountains are retreats for people who want to venture into the wilderness but may not want to sleep in a tent in the woods. To us thru-hikers, they are virtual mansions: running water, indoor toilets, electricity, and full kitchens are all included. What gives these huts their real charm (aside from their scenic locations, of course) are the people who run them, The Croo. These mostly college aged workers cook, clean and serve the guests in a fashion I can best describe as ¢rough enthusiasm¢. By that, I mean they will help guests in any way they can, yet they expect you to act like an adult ¢ you must pack out your garbage, conserve energy and water, and treat everyone else and nature itself with respect. Those are some terms I can definitely agree with.Lonesome Lake Hut gets its name from the beautiful body of water located just a quick walk from the main cabin. In the distance I could see the Franconia Ridge rising far above the tree line. Our first goal, however; was to find the coffee we smelled earlier. The Croo was all too accommodating, not only giving us coffee but also everything that was left over from breakfast: eggs, oatmeal, pineapple, and pastries. Birdman and I left with bellies full of our second breakfast, feeling fueled for the rest of our hike.At the base of the mountain, we came to a road crossing and quickly hitched into the nearby town of Lincoln for resupply. There we ran into Bebop and Sascrotch, who would be staying in town to visit a friend. Birdman and I had mountains to climb, however; and hitched back to where we left off. At the trailhead we met two forest rangers who warned us not to stay at the next campsite. Apparently, a nosey bear decided that there was something delicious in the caretaker¢s tent and refused to leave. They eventually got him out, but they assumed he would return now that he knew food was in the area. That bit of news helped us narrow down our camping options, at least.We started up the long, steep, boulder-filled trail and eventually found ourselves at the entrance of the most beautiful section of trail I have seen so far, Franconia Ridge. This section of trail is entirely above the tree line and traverses three huge mountains: South Haystack, Mt. Lincoln, and Mount Lafayette. On both sides of the ridge we could see the valleys and mountains beyond, including Lonesome Lake Hut from this morning and, far off in the distance, the tallest mountain in the Whites, Mt. Washington.By the time we reached the ridge it was already past six o¢clock, so we decided to try our luck at a work-for-stay at nearby Greenleaf Hut. Each hut allows a certain number of thru-hikers to sleep and eat on site for a small amount of work. Fortunately, Greenleaf had not had any thru-hikers come through in several days, so Birdman and I were given the jobs. In return for cleaning the stove eyes and some dishes, we were fed chicken, beef, rice, corn, and cinnamon cupcakes. I¢m now camped in the hut dining room, looking at Franconia Ridge in the moonlight. If the rest of my days in the Whites will be like this one, I think this thru-hike can be deemed a success already.