Date: 2017-09-18
From: ME 4, Rangeley, ME/Farmhouse Inn Hostel

To: Poplar Ridge Lean-to
Miles today: 10.7

9/18ME 4, Rangeley, ME/Farmhouse Inn Hostel to Poplar Ridge Lean-to10.7 miles Total miles:  1980.1I was up by 5:15 this morning and was packed and ready to go in time for the 6;30 shuttle back to the trailhead.  Jet Pack, a past thru hiker who also enjoys hiking these mountains in the winter, gave us a ride. Believe me, I am finding the mountains of southern Maine plenty challenging enough without adding ice and snow.  A few miles into today's hike, before things got steep, I passed Plazza Rock Lean-to, which is famous on the AT for its two seater privy. A sign on the outside let's you know that it's "Your Move," and a cribbage board resides between the privy seats. I don't know how many games have actually been played there, but it's fun to know that bowels aren't the only thing that moves in this privy. (Sorry). I also passed Ethel and Eddy Ponds before the trail got seriously into the climb up Saddleback Mountain and was, as always, taken back by their beauty.  I've encountered many such ponds since I've been in Maine, but the sight of these glacial ponds never grows old.  The hike up Saddleback was long, and the last mile or so was above tree line. Instead of scrambling over endless boulders like in the Whites, the final ascent of Saddleback was up open rock faces. While steeply graded, the rock was rough enough that it was usually possible to walk right up it. The way was well marked with white blazes and cairns. On one cliff face, a large AT logo with a corresponding arrow was painted boldly on the rock, letting me know that I at least didn't have to scale the sheer face of the cliff. Instead, a narrow ledge led to the next level. The views from Saddleback were absolutely stunning in all directions.  Looking north, it was possible to see much of the trail leading up to The Horn, my second mountain of the day.  There were a few tricky places on the descent of Saddleback before the trail again headed upward to The Horn, but nothing too terrible.  I met Tengo at the summit for lunch. We were soon joined by Jason, Maple, Boomer, and Single T.  Maple came right up to me with that special look and successfully Yogied a piece of my Spam Single from me.  (Yogi-ing is when a thru hiker manages to get a handout without specifically asking for one).  We enjoyed a leisurely lunch before deciding it was time to move on. The descent from The Horn was significantly tougher than from Saddleback, but I took my time and eventually arrived at Redington Campsite.  Although there was a 0.2 mile side trail to water, I didn't want to risk running out while traversing Saddleback Junior, so I left my pack by the trail and took my water equipment to a quiet little stream. I was immediately glad that I obtained a new filter and was pleasantly surprised by how quickly I was able to treat my water. Back on the trail, I hiked up Saddleback Junior, my third and last mountain for the day. There was quite a bit more rock scrambling than before, but I made pretty good time up the mountain.  Clouds and fog had moved in by then, and the summit was totally socked in.  The first 0.4 miles of the descent were the hardest of the day. As I slowly worked my way down the steep rock faces and jumbled boulders, I often resorted to sitting down and scooting. On the way down, I met Pip, a fellow thru hiker who left Springer Mountain on April 1st.  He decided to slow his pace for a spell,  and we had a nice chat as we negotiated our way down the mountainside.  I asked Pip if his name was from the Lord of the Rings or from Shakespeare. He replied that it's from his first name, Philip, minus the "hill."  I responded that we certainly hadn't been minus any hills lately, and he told me they weren't hills, they were mounrains. How true. Pip's beard is the same color mine used to be, and I explained I am a redhead in stealth mode. I was only headed to the next shelter while Pip had several more miles to go, so he moved on. It was a lot of fun getting to meet a new thru hiker, especially one who must have been hiking around me for months. The trail became much easier the last mile of the day. I knew I was near the shelter when I passed a privy beside the trail. It was a surprisingly long way from the shelter, so I will have a bit of a southbound hike in the morning. I arrived at the shelter at 5:20 and set up my tent on a nice, flat area near the lean-to. A pretty little stream flows right near my tent, so at least I didn't have to go far for water. Poplar Ridge Lean-to is infamous as being the place that Geraldine Largay (trail name, Inchworm), the hiker who perished when she left the trail and was unable to find it again, was last seen.  Such a tragic loss. There is a tribute to her in the lean-to. It started to feel like it might rain while I was cooking dinner and, sure enough, a light drizzle began to fall at sundown.  The rain continues as I write this,  and the forecast is for more tomorrow. I've had a very long run of incredibly good weather, so I have nothing to complain about. I will be hiking Spaulding and Sugarloaf Mountains tomorrow so, hopefully, the rain will remain light. As with all things, only time will tell. Either way, I need to be well-rested, so I'll end this and go back to sleep.