Date: 2007-05-01
From: Spence Field Shelter

To: Clingman's Dome
Miles today: 16.0

An Update by Mom...It was one of those clear spring days that you could see forever, or at least so it seemed to Andrew, Rebel, and Gandalf as they stood on top of Clingman's Dome. They were having a fun time of it pointing to mountains in the distance saying, "I've been there, and there, and there, too!" They struck up a conversation with a couple who had driven up, Ben and Tobyn. The couple invited the hikers to ride down to civilization with them, but only Andrew took them up on their offer. They were going to Cherokee and the other guys had Gatlinburg in mind.Andrew discovered that the couple were Presbyterian youth leaders who often bring kids on outdoor adventures in the mountains. They immediately took to each other. No doubt in some ways they reminded Andrew of his own wonderful youth leaders, Bill and Janey.   Andrew said his one craving was for Chinese food. (General Tso's chicken is his favorite dish in the world. Andrew has even entertained thoughts of having that as a trail name.) Ben and Tobyn drove him the eighteen miles to Cherokee and stopped to ask about the Chinese restaurant, only to find that it burned down last night. They cheerfully drove Andrew to the next town, Silva, to the nearest Chinese restaurant. It was next to the Walmart, so they shopped while Andrew gorged himself at the buffet. His fortune cookie read, "You will travel to many places." After a chuckle he tucked it away safely to give to Fortune Cookie should he ever run into him again.Ben and Tobyn drove Andrew back to Cherokee and safely deposited him at the Days Inn. Despite Andrew's stench, there was hugs all around. He had truly met some trail angels.The Days Inn just happened to be across the street from the Cherokee Casino, so Andrew decided to check it out. He wasn't in there very long before security was on him. Since Andrew is underage, he was quickly escorted out. So much for that night's entertainment.[[Straight from the hiker's mouth]]Got an early start today. It's always best to start when the sun is still behind the mountains and not in your eyes. It saves some trouble early on in the day.I was low on food this day, most of my snacks had been eaten and I really only had a lunch and dinner left. I mentioned something to Fortune Cookie about it and he hands me a small package of sesame seed crackers. Never had any of those, wonder how many calories it has? I looked on the back and adding up the calorie/serving ration, in that one little pack it was close to 1000 calories! Thanks Fortune.From the trail you don't get many good looks at Clingman's. You'd expect it to loom over top of the forest canopy, daring you to set foot on it. But instead you are greeted by a easy enough gradual climb. And at the top? An observation tower, road and gaggles of tourists.The view from the tower was magnificent and on that day in particular the view stretched for miles and miles. I could even see Standing Indian up there. A mountain I hadn't climbed since the NC/GA line. As I, Rebel and Gandalf pointed, gawked and visually reminisced, I met two folks on holiday named Ben and Tobyn. They were at the top making nice with the smelly hikers while other tourists gave us funny looks and "please don't stink on me" smiles.On the way down the ramp they offer the three of us free bananas. (FREE bananas) Who can turn down bananas? Me and Gandalf certainly couldn't. We followed Ben and Tobyn down the road to their van where we sat on the curb like bums, stuffing our faces smiling at nothing in particular.As we sat we made talk with the couple and I mentioned how I'd like to go into town that day, Gatlinburg if possible. They tell me that they can't take me there, they are going to Cherokee instead. Cherokee? I hadn't heard of it, but I don't much care. A ride is a ride. I told them as long as it had a hotel and a chinese restaurant then I'd be right as rain.They assured me it did. "Oh yeah, I saw one the other day, I'm sure of it." So I smiled as they agreed to take me there, stopping for a photo op at Newfound Gap on the way. Along the way we talked about this, that and the other. These have got to be the nicest people I'd met on the trip so far, hiker or otherwise. I felt like I was meeting old acquaintances. I also found out that Ben went to Duke. So I politely rubbed in the fact that I'd be attending VCU in the fall.When we get to cherokee we drive around for a little while, looking at the sights and listening to the sounds. I'm most scoping out the restaurants looking for Chinese. Oh yeah and maybe a place to sleep. Well, we circle pretty much the whole town and still no Chinese. I'm feeling let down and decide maybe I'll just go check in to a hotel. They drop me off at the Days Inn across from the casino and as I get my junk collected, Ben goes in to ask about Chinese.He comes out with a look on his face like "You're not gonna believe this." "The Chinese restaurant burned down yesterday."I laughed. What else can you do when something like that happens. Well, these people were sorry to hear my plight and offered to take me to one in Sylva, they had to shop at the Walmart there anyway and they'd bring me right back afterwards. Who can say no to that? I ate about four plates of food. Man, these people really were great. Thanks, Ben and Tobyn!I don't know if I could thank them enough if I tried. There's days when hiking tears you a new one, your legs feel like jelly and the trail is like a treadmill and you never get anywhere, but the moments like this, when someone else truly cares whether you're comfortable or fed or happy, those are the days when hiking the AT was the best idea you've ever had. Really, that's the appeal of the Appalachian Trail. It's the people. The community of hikers, people old and young, and the cultivated kindness found throughout.