Date: 2003-04-05
From: N.O.C., Nantahala River

To: Brown Fork Gap Shelter
Miles today: 16.0
Weather: moderate rain

Two days of very hard work have taken us exactly 16 miles or 150.1 miles north of Springer Mountain. Yesterday was unrelentingly uphill so we stopped a lot. Some rain showers and generally dull, which was probably a good thing. We got spaces in the new shelter at Sassafras Gap. It has two levels and a good-sized, protected table area in front - just as well because it was obvious the wind would blow right into the exposed end of the shelter. Through the night it rained quite heavily at times, but shortly before daybreak there was a dazzling flash of lightning, an almighty thunderclap that seemed right above us, and the heavens just opened. The rain clattered off our tin roof for the next two hours, and we were a pretty disheartened bunch as we dragged ourselves from our sleeping bags. Two hours later we set off in our rain gear, although the rain was light now, and started a 500 foot climb up to Cheoah Bald. The sights to our right and left through the trees, and then the unimpeded view at the top, were absolutely amazing. White cloud filled the valleys below and through it poked various mountains and ridges stacked behind each other. Americans said it was "awesome", and it truly was. Suddenly the sky was blue and the sun was out. What a scene! Off came the rain gear, it had become pleasantly warm. Six miles later, we were hot and tired as we descended to Stecoah Gap. Along the way we passed a troop of boy scouts, spaced out in pairs, on their way to Sassafras Gap Shelter. They were all very polite and friendly, and always stopped to let us come through. Our second boost of the day came when we reached Stecoah Gap. A trail angel called "Ox97" had set up a marquee with seats in the shade, and laid on a big supply of soft drinks, glazed donuts, pastries, cookies and oranges. I was too tired to think straight but it was plain we had died and gone to Heaven. "Ox97" is a previous thru-hiker who frequently comes up from Atlanta and does this at weekends. Here at the next shelter- with "Pippie", "Red Rover" and "Peregrine" (a couple from New Hampshire), "Nuthin' Decent" (also from New Hampshire), "Wanderer" (N.Y.), "Wounded Knee" (Michigan) and "Scuba Man" (Virginia) - our trail angel is still the main topic of conversation. A father and his two young teenage sons are here too, doing some southbound section-hiking. The boys are tenting. As I write, the father has put up some contraption tied between two tree trunks. "Scuba Man" thought it was a tarp but couldn't understand why he was going to sleep on a big tree root. But it's become evident that it's a hammock and tarp combined. The fellow disappeared into it ten minutes ago, and we in the shelter stifle howls of laughter as the hammock forms one unimaginable shape after another as he struggles to get comfortable. We are easily amused here!Some news from outside. A private aircraft went down on Clingman's Dome yesterday, we have been told, and the FAA have closed off the surrounding area, which includes the AT. Are we going to be stuck in Fontana? Also there's a big war going on somewhere!.....