Date: 2017-09-15
From: Sawyer Brook Campsite

To: Bemis Mountain Lean-to/Campsite
Miles today: 11.3
Weather: overcast clouds

9/15Sawyer Brook Campground to Bemis Mountain Lean-to/Campsite11.3 milesTotal miles:  1951.7Today's plan was for an ambitious 11.3 mile hike to the lean-to past Bemis Mountain. This required hiking up and over Moody Mountain and Old Blue Mountain, as well as Bemis Mountain. The weather, as it has been since I entered Maine, was perfect for hiking, with beautiful clouds and sunny skies. (I'm knocking on wood as I write this). The route up Moody, as predicted, was incredibly steep. While very strenuous, there were few places that were difficult to navigate. The descent to South Arm Road also held few surprises. It took a little over two hours to complete the route up and over Moody, so it would have been possible to have done it yesterday afternoon. Still, I'm glad we waited and took it on while fresh and rested. The summit was covered with trees, but I did pass an overlook with a view on the way down the mountain.  Next up was Old Blue, the ascent of which was 2.8 miles long. It was not quite as steep as Moody, but still formidable. As with Moody, however, there were few areas that presented technical difficulties, and I steadily worked my way up the mountain, arriving at the summit around 12:30.  Although the summit was reported to have a view, I ate my lunch atop the mountain surrounded by short fir trees. It was a very pretty spot, but without a view. Like with Moody, however, I did pass a nice view on the way down. I was feeling very good about the day and anticipated an early arrival at the lean-to. All that was left was 5.9 more miles with little elevation change. The route up "little" Bemis Mountain was only a rise of 200 feet in one mile. I suppose if I haven't learned not to underestimate the AT during the 1,950 miles I hiked to get to the top of Bemis Mountain, I'm not going to get it figured out in the last 239.8 miles to Katahdin. Perhaps Bemis took issue with being taken for granted, as both the ascent and descent, while short in mileage and elevation change, made up for it with technically difficult trail obstacles. From mostly hiking along rocky and rooty trail as I had the rest of the day, I was reintroduced to bouldery trail and steep, wet, slick rock faces, particularly on the descent, where they are the most problematic. For years I have used the saying, "It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog." Bemis had plenty of "fight," and it was after 6:30 when this weary hiker finally arrived at the campsite. I did remind myself to remain mindful of the beauty through which I was hiking, at least during those places where all attention was on not slipping and falling down a slick rock face. Like its larger sisters, Bemis was tree covered on her summit but offered a beautiful view on the way down. After arriving at the campsite, I quickly set about pitching my tent, throwing my bear line, and going to get water. Gravity arrived shortly after I did and went with me for water. Tengo arrived a bit before I did and opted to sleep in the shelter. As it turned out, it was completely dark by the time I got back to my tent. I cooked dinner by the light of my headlamp, hung my food bag, and was in my tent by 8:30. I hope for another big day tomorrow, covering 12.9 miles to a campsite only 4.8 miles to ME 4, the road to Rangeley and my next resupply. The topo lines from the guidebook look conducive. There is another lean-to 8.3 miles from here, however, in case southern Maine again wants to remind me of what she is capable of presenting along with all of her beauty. I'm resting now and can feel my legs rejuvenating for another day as the aches subside. I'm sure I'll be ready for whatever tomorrow holds, as I continue to make my way through beautiful, but challenging, Maine.