Date: 2013-06-28
From: Teahorse Hostel, Harpers Ferry, VA

To: Dahlgren Backpack Campground
Miles today: 17.8
Weather: broken clouds

It was another quiet night at the Teahorse. We feasted on waffles, and I did my best to get two down the old gullet. I had big plans of sticking around the hostel and getting my trail journal up to speed, but as I was about to head downstairs toward the computer the power went out. It seemed that the power was out in the whole town. So instead of catching my journal up to speed, I hiked out of town with Redspecs. I stopped at the ATC to take a few more pictures. I asked several other people about their power situation, but they, too, were without. It seemed that the online journal would have to wait. We climbed back down to trail. I stopped at Jefferson's Rock to have a look. The rock was made up of three rocks of different shapes and sizes precariously staked. At some point in history, someone had put steel supports underneath to keep it in place. They took away from the impressiveness, but I guess they are a necessary evil. The day was already getting hot. The sun reflected silvery white off the Potomac river with dark blotches where the rock protruded above the water. The hills on either side slid gently down to the water's edge. A church steeple stuck up above the trees. I slowly worked my way down the ancient stone steps, down into the historical old town of Harpers Ferry. The whole town is a living, working museum. Real stores were mixed in with the museum stores, so you had to look close to figure out which were actually selling things and which were exhibits. I stopped by the outfitters to see about buying some fuel (I'd forgotten to get it the day before), but they were closed. So we headed for the bridge to Maryland. I got almost all the way across when I remembered that I had forgotten to collect a bit of West Virginian soil. I've been collecting a bit of dirt from each state as a true souvenir of the Appalachian Trail. I dropped my pack where I stood and ran back to West Virginia. The trail descended a winding stair case before it settled onto the bank below. The next few miles followed along a flat, wide path shared by pedestrians and cyclists alike. The Potomac River flowed on the right, and rail road tracks and an old canal/lock system followed along on the left. I caught up with Danger Dave and we walked and chatted for a bit. We stopped to look at the duck families and turtles enjoying the still, duckweed covered waters of the canal. The trail took us up the "Weverton Challenge" which amounted to little more than some switchbacks. I stopped at the Ed Garvey Shelter for lunch. It was a neat shelter made of thick round logs. It was two stories, but the loft was accessed by a stairway at the back of the shelter. I plopped down at the picnic table and shed my shoes before digging into my food bag. Aquaman, Davy Crockett, Danger Dave, Slow-n-Steady and her husband joined me for lunch. Spirits were high. We were officially past Harpers Ferry. The afternoon hike was easy, but that still didn't stop me from twisting my ankle and hit the ground. It seems that Maryland wanted a pound of my flesh as well. Luckily, my pack was a little lighter than usual (though it weighed in at 38 lbs this morning with food and water. It's way over weight, especially for this point in the hike. Hmmm.). I didn't skin my knee, but I was sufficiently annoyed. I had been swatting at the swarm of gnats that encircled my head and not paying attention to where I was stepping. So I coated myself with a layer of DEET. I hate wearing the stuff, but the other option seems to be worse for my general well-being (Interestingly, I was told that it is the carbon dioxide that the gnats and bugs are attracted to. That's why they keep dive bombing the face even after being sprayed with bug spray). I stopped at White Rock Cliffs to take a break and to take in Maryland. I knew my time here was short, and I wanted to absorb as much of this lovely state as I could. I took out my camera and a Cliff Bar. There was a name and date chiseled into the rock, RL Rogers 1890. Who was RL Rogers, and under what circumstances had they come to White Rock Cliffs? How had the view changed since they had set eyes on the far fields? Aquaman came around the corner and joined me on the rocks. We sat and chatted for an hour. He's a super nice guy with a very positive outlook on life. He, too, had a bad leg injury in high school which had forever changed his perspective on life. It's wonderful to discover subsistence and depth in another person. There's something about being out here on the trail, perhaps its the common experience that we share, that allows us to peel back the layers of our personalities and histories with less caution and apprehension than me might otherwise. It's very freeing. The clouds looked like they were moving in for possible rain, so we decided to get moving. The trail passed through several different Civil War battlefields and gaps that played a vital roll in the War. Again, it made me think of Dad. He's the most knowledgeable person when it comes to Civil War history. It made me miss him. I wished he was there. The trail took me to Dahlgren Backpack Campground. The state of Maryland is pretty strict when it comes to stealth camping. So to encourage people to camp in designated areas, they make those areas quite appealing. Dahlgren campground has flushing toilets, running water, hot showers and free camping. That's certainly enough to convince me to stop there! The campground was pretty full when I got there. It was a beautiful Friday evening, so no doubt, I wasn't the only one with the idea to stop there. Mostly it was full of weekend campers, but Atlas and his son were there. As were Sue & Harvey, Codger & Trashbag, Aquaman and Double Dare (the man). A local guy with a rambunctious puppy walked into the campground and handed out Coors cans. I cheers with some of the others. I set my tent up near to the bathrooms. Jaba and Lt. Cookoobird (neither of whom I'd seen since the Smokies) passed through hiking in their underwear. It was good to see them again. Aquaman and Double Dare invited me to join them for a drink at the restaurant .5 up the trail from where we were. The AWOL said that the restaurant requested that you wear a sleeved shirt and shower beforehand. A restaurant with a dress-code, this could be interesting. My first instinct was to decline. I had a food bag full of heavy food, but something about the invitation intrigued me. I accepted their invitation. We showered. The guys put on long-sleeved shirts. I put back on my sweaty hiking clothes. We grabbed our headlamps and with colorful Crocs on our feet, we headed the .5 up the trail to the restaurant. As soon as I saw the Old South Mountain Inn (est. 1732), I thought, uh-oh. This place was nice. Really nice. There was a cordial sign outside the door that essentially said that all patrons were invited but to behave ourselves and please, please take a bath before stinking up the place. The very nice hostess looked us up and down as soon as we walked in the door. I kept urging one of the guys to please stand in front, but they put me front and center. I asked if we could just sit at the bar and have a drink and maybe something to eat. The hostess excused herself to speak with the manager. We heard whispering. She returned. She said that they didn't serve food at the bar, but that we could be seated at a table. Really? Wow! They were really going to let us in! We eagerly followed her to a table, covered in a white linen table cloth, linen napkins and stemware. The place was pricey, but the menu looked so good. We decided to go for it, all out. We ordered pre-dinner drinks and dinner drinks. I had a dozen oysters on a half shell (they were so good, my toes curled), Maryland crabcakes (I really never thought I'd have a chance to have any, so what a treat! These were phenomenal), a salad, baked potato and grilled vegetables. For dessert I had fresh strawberries en chemise au chocolat and coffee. Double Dare told us that on his last AT thru-hike he'd passed the restaurant and vowed to come back some day. We were so lucky to get to join him. He's another one of those treasure-of-a-souls the AT puts in your pathway. He's positive energy and outlook is contagious. And here we were, three virtual strangers sharing an extraordinary meal under extraordinary circumstances. Two hours before I would have never have dreamed that I would be in that situation. The AT gods were smiling down on us. We ate and drank and laughed about our good fortune until the server came up and politely told us that the restaurant was closed. We paid our bills (thank you, Mom & Dad, for facilitating this wonderful meal!), thanked them profusely and then giggled our way back the campsite with the help of our headlamps. What an introduction to Maryland!