Date: 2015-04-29
From: Mountaineer Shelter

To: Kincora Hiker Hostel
Miles today: 15.9

TODAY IS LIKE HIKER CHRISTMAS.But I will start from the beginning.I had the wonderful pleasure of digging my first pre-dawn poop hole this morning, Mountaineer Shelter not having a privy. This is a story I haven't told yet... during my pre-Smokies pack weight freakout, I tried to rid myself of excess, unnecessary items. I combed my pack, sending home extra chapstick and my stove cozy. I took handfuls of noodles out of my dinner bags to save space. If I hadn't used it yet, it was more likely to go.One piece of equipment dangling from my pack had, at this point, not even been used once. This was my little orange shovel, used to dig a hole to poop in (yes, sometimes hikers have to do this. There are no restrooms in the woods, and privies are not plentiful). I foolishly discarded my shovel into a hiker box, thinking "I can just use a stick, or my trekking poles to dig a hole if I have to."BIG MISTAKE.It was only a day or two later when I felt a violent rumbling in my bowels. I checked my guidebook pages. The next shelter was miles away. I would never make it. Trail food can be very unkind on your digestive system, especially with all that highly-processed junk and sugar.This was an emergency. I ran into the woods (luckily I was at a place where I could hide from others passing by on the trail), and grabbed a stick, jamming it into the dirt in my wild attempts to dig a hole. You are supposed to bury your waste 6-8 inches deep. That's a decent hole. The stick method was NOT cutting it. I kept getting stuck on roots and rocks. I REALLY had to go, and ended up scrabbling at the soil with my hands, desperate to rip out the roots and make a suitable hole.Another lesson learned. As soon as I got to Hot Springs, I purchased a new shovel.This is one of the harsh realities of hiker life... not only are you smelly and gross from hiking, sometimes you have to dig yourself a hole to poop in. I hope you enjoyed that story, because I did not enjoy living it.Anyway, after digging and filling my hole, I left Mountaineer Shelter in the light of the rising sun. This is still my favorite thing, hiking as the sun rises. No one else ever seems to get up as early, but I love it. It is totally worth dragging my tired, lazy butt out of my sleeping bag in the dark to be able to hike as the sun just starts to peek through the trees.Today's hike was easy, miles stretching on without any steep ascents or descents. Sometime in the morning I recieved a text from Trail Mentor Alexa, wishing me a happy 4 weeks on the trail. It has already been FOUR WEEKS since we climbed those 8 billion steps up the approach trail to Springer. Unbelievable. Thank you again for the u forgettable road trip, Alexa, and for inspiring me to come out here. This is the most incredible adventure and the best thing I have ever done.I made it to Dennis Cove Road around noon, and struck out west from the trail to Kincora Hiker Hostel.This place is AWESOME. It is a little dilapidated. There are cats all over, as well as dishes of cat food. The walls and ceiling are plastered with pictures of thru-hikers on the summit of Katahdin - success stories of so many who passed within these walls. There is a little kitchen, littered with pots and pans and odds and ends, half-full containers of spices and seasonings discarded by hikers who can only carry a little at a time. The upstairs is a bunkroom, full of cat dander (and, half an hour ago, fighting cats). There is a bathroom with loose tiles and a leaky, dark shower that has blissfully hot water.The hostel is run by Bob Peoples, who was nailing in loose thumb tacks holding the pictoral Katahdin success stories on the ceiling when I arrived. Basically, he is his own breed of trail angel. He has worked to maintain the trail for years. He provides bunks, laundry machines, showers, bathrooms and more to hikers passing through on the trail. At 5 o'clock, he runs a shuttle into town for groceries. What does he ask for in return? A mere $5 donation. Can you imagine? This man basically built an addition on his home, where he allows complete strangers passing through to stay for a pittance.Thanks to Bob, I am warm and clean and comfortable. My pants are tumbling in the dryer. He accepts mail drops here, so I picked up my box of supplies after arriving.There are not too many here. I am sure some people opted for one of the other lodging options in town. It sounded like Frozen Mac planned to head for a different hostel.One man asked about "that guy I keep seeing you with", meaning Columbo. I hope I am not a topic of trail gossip . Hammer arrived and asked if I found my glove - he ran into me as I was searching for it on the trail. Bob disappeared and returned with an old pair of gloves for me. Just another example of endless trail hospitality.Mike and I threw our laundry in together to make a full load, but I forgot my pants. So I started another load, filling it with dirty towels from hiker showers. At least it will be one less load that Bob will have to do. He has already provided for us enough.So experiencing Kincora, meeting Bob, showering and laundering my clothes are the first part of why today is like Hiker Christmas. My mail drop was full of amazing surprises.Mom sent new shorts, which I got on clearance at Target before I left (I get everything on clearance...). I hope they will solve the chafing problem. I have too many clothes now, especially with my tee from Uncle Johnny's, but I have no idea when I might be able to send it home.Candace sent me a red panda sticker from Japan. It says something in Japanese, which, according to the accompanying letter, says something like "independence" or "I make my own life." I think this is PERFECT. I put it on my phone, afraid it will get trashed on my water bottle. Thank you SO MUCH, Emmy! Also, a card from Evie! Evie is another Acadia friend. I am hoping to catch up with her as she passes through Virginia in a couple of weeks. Thank you so much for the meal money, Evie! I really appreciate it, and promise to put it to good use.Auntie Debby sent chocolate-covered pretzels. With DARK chocolate, my favorite. I am a spoiled rotten brat.And I saved the best for last. HOMEMADE COOKIES from Auntie Pat. Nothing beats homemade cookies from Auntie Pat. They taste like home. I was so disappointed when they weren't in my last mail drop at Uncle Johnny's. I knew they were coming, but it is impossible to keep track of which box is coming when and what is inside.I am shamed to admit that I already ate all of the cookies. I could not stop myself. I did hike 16 miles this morning, so it's okay, right? The best part is, she gave my mom a whole bunch to freeze so I get to look forward to cookies all the time now.One of the good things about preplanning my mail drops instead of just resupplying in town is that it gives me motivation to get to the next box. A bunch of mini goals are built into my hike. I never wake up and think "Oh my god, I am still 1800 miles from Katahdin." Instead, I think, "Only two more days until my next box!" Every box contains some new surprise to look forward to - a note from mom, a $20 bill from the pizza fairy, or today's jackpot of love and support.Auntie Pat, Uncle Clyde, and Jason (and Robby, Katie, and Lena ) also sent me a really cool rope bracelet (awesome and practical, I am wearing it in addition to my "EMBRACE THE SUCK" bracelet) and money (which was totally unnecessary!!) as well as an offer to help buy new shoes. Do I have the best family ever, or what?I still don't know how to solve the shoe issue. My 10s are better than the Toe-Pinchers, but are still too big. Doubling up on socks helps a little but it still is not a solution. They still hurt. I keep waking up at midnight with my toes numb and tingling from the hiking and my legs stiff and cramped from sleeping in my mummy bag (which allows me basically only 2 sleeping positions).My camp shoes have been working out really well. I wore them all 16 miles today, but I don't expect them to last long. Dan was looking them up when I was on the phone with mom the other day, but I am not sure if they ordered another pair. I keep trying to research wide width hiking shoes, but I never have phone service or wifi for long. I haven't had any luck finding any promising options so far. I might end up trying trail runners at some point.Despite neverending shoe issues, I am enjoying Hiker Christmas. I don't have phone service here, of course. I never do. But I will take the grocery shuttle into town (Bob assures me that I can buy frozen pizza there) and try to quickly post these entries then if I can. I am not sure how likely it is that I will have service. Probably not likely at all!Thanks so much to everyone who brightened my day! You made my 4 week trail anniversary awesome! I am so grateful for your support, advice, and kindness. Even people I have never met are reading this journal and advising me about shoelaces and umbrellas. I wish I could call you all and tell you how much I love and miss you. I am so grateful to be surrounded by amazing people in my life, both on and off the trail!