Date: 2004-10-02
From: Carl A. Newhall Lean-to

To: Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to
Miles today: 18.9
Weather: overcast clouds

Would you look at that total mileage?! ... 2114.4   Do the math -- only 60 miles remaining to hike until Ursa Minor and Swan touch the sign at Baxter Peak, the summit of Katahdin. Unbelievable!After a very chilly night once again, we got out of camp at 8 a.m. I wanted an earlier start as I was anticipating a long, difficult day. But 8:00 would work if we didn't lollygag along the way. This morning about 4:00 a moose came charging down the hill, crashing through the underbrush headed for the rushing river not far below. I was at full attention and out of my bag instantly hoping to get a glimpse of at least its silhouette in the light of the full moon. Alas; it was not to be. But when the sun came up I did see the hoof prints on the path not more than 10 feet from my tent. No one in the shelter heard a sound.Ursa and I have a never-ending string of jokes all beginning with the words "Hiker is injured when ....." and based on real events, of course. For instance: "Hiker is injured when she is knocked on the head by her boots which were tied to the top of her pack as she forded the river." Or: "... she drowns drinking directly from the water filter hose as her partner was pumping". Or: "... the rock she used to throw her bear bag rope over a branch hits her in the head". Today it reads: "... when moose trips over tent line and stake, falls on tent, and crushes a snoozing hiker".We managed the 19 miles plus the grueling climbs today, much to my amazement. I do believe knowing these were the last of the huge mountains gave us the needed momentum to accomplish our goal. From White Cap Mountain (3654') we got the most spectacular honest-to-goodness view of Katahdin. What a glorious sight! In everyone's view, it's a majestic peak above the flat-ish terrain (which we are crossing now), but to us thru-hikers it's the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. It stands awaiting our arrival, welcoming our conquest, proud to be such an emotional monumental testament to the power of man's perseverance and determination. I doubt there is even one thru-hiker who isn't reflecting on his journey, overwhelmed by the accomplishment, and feeling the bitter and sweet taste of its near conclusion. How did it all happen so quickly? How did some days and climbs seem endless and still bring us to this point so soon? What did we gain? What did we learn? Knowing what we know now, what would we do differently if we could turn back the calendar? Would we ever have begun, taken that first step, huffed up that initial mountain called Springer? How can we return to real life and integrate our trail lessons into our daily regimen? What will the next few weeks be like without our newfound friends with all the funny names?I lie here in my tent tonight listening to yet another river rushing in the ravine below us. I'm lamenting the fact I've only four more nights on the trail. Ursa's tent sits six feet away from mine. Tripod is in another 50 feet away. Maintainer Roger Merchant is close by under his tarp. In the shelter and various tents surrounding are Sheriff, Skywalker, Statler & Waldorf, Kip, Arms, Chuggs, Swix and Squatter. Half a day or two behind are Chef TB, Two Dogs, Dingle, and Momma's Boy. A day or so ahead are Blue, Gray Panter, One Thing, White Patch, Mousebait, Regular Brian, T-Bot, Keytone. Three days ahead are Rooney Tunes, Rally and Puck-Fin. There are others, many who have already summitted: Bones, Myst, Don't Mind, Don't Matter, Now or Never, Bonespur, Stickman; and many still behind including Mr. T and Flint. I can't begin to list the multitude of personalities, all the most incredible and beautiful people who have graced me with their presence.Ah, but I reminesce and sigh prematurely. Today kicked butt! Ready for this list? Gulf Hagas (2680'), West Peak (3178'), Hay (3245'), White Cap (3654'), and lower but still a challenge: Little Boardman (2017'). Four and one-half miles later we landed at our day's desired destination, 19 miles and 9-1/2 hours closer to Katahdin. We cooked in the dark but were able to set up camp with plenty of daylight remaining.At 9:15 all is peaceful. The air is warmer than last night. Weather forecast predicts morning showers but marvelous sunny weather for all of next week. We're planning on a Class I day for our final summit next Thursday.One hiker said he'd be really upset to climb to the top of Big "K" and discover a huge super K-Mart complete with a parking lot and blue light specials!