Date: 2012-05-21
From: Pearisburg, VA

To: Symms Gap, VA
Miles today: 12.6

I think I'm deepening into my trail experience. There's an old ditty about the hiker who can't decide if it's more exciting to break camp and get on the trail or if it's more exciting to come off the trail and make camp. I'm enjoying it all. Yesterday was my 40th day on the trail and I arrived here in Pearisburg, Virginia, 629 trail miles from the start in Georgia. Since my last update in Damascus I walked 163 miles. The first "week" out from Damascus I walked 75 miles in 4 days and 3 nights (21, 17, 25, 12 mile days, nights in tent, shelter, shelter). I then spent two nights (the second night for a mail drop that never arrived) at the Relax Inn at an Interstate 81 interchange near Atkins. The second "week" out I walked 88 miles in 5 days and 4 nights (16, 17, 21, 18, 16 mile days, nights in tent, shelter, tent, tent) from Atkins to Pearisburg. So many numbers - they are a part of the trail experience but certainly don't encompass it all. Had good weather the first couple days from Damascus for traverse around 5000 foot Whitetop Mountain and 5729 foot Mt Rogers, the highest point in VA. Also passed through Grayson Highlands State Park with interesting rock outcrops and close cropped grasses which reminded me of alpine tundra. Grayson also has scattered groups of wild ponies (yes, totally on their own). I saw three groups of them and was within touching distance of the last group. The day of Rogers and Grayson it started to cloud up. The next day we had drizzle all afternoon. I spent a somewhat uncomfortable night with fog, drizzle and rain coming down at the two level Partnership Shelter with about 15 other people near the Mt Rogers NRA headquarters. To find a spot I had to climb a vertical ladder into the loft and gratefully found a good empty spot on the floor. There were about 11 of us in the loft. Next to me in the loft were two young persons, One of them asked me if he could "smoke". I thought he meant cigarettes until I saw the bong come out. The following morning I walked in drizzle and rain (heavy at times) over much rocky and muddy ground for 5 hours into Atkins. NOT one of the more delightful days on the trail. The most recent "second" trail week we had generally very nice weather and the one evening that it rained I was already settled into the shelter before the heavens opened, heavy at times, with a good bit of distant thunder. The dynamic of hikers on the trail is changing too. I don't seem to be passing people, but now have more people passing me. Folks I had been hiking with - Angel Hair, Rigatoni, Rhyno, Tall Oaf, Philly Steve, Bill, Hippity-Hop, Balou, all seem to be ahead at this point. The last several days I have been hiking in a group including Carl, Mr Breeze, Arius ((pronounced Arus - short a, u like oo, silent i) originally from Lithuania who thru-hiked in 2006 and keeps telling me I need to eat more fat - think bacon and cheese and anything Little Debbie - or I will lose muscle mass), White Wolf and Solo (as in alone, NOT Star Wars, now from Arizona, previously from Alaska). I've made a pack adjustment. Previously I was carrying it very low on my back. A fellow hiker asked me if I found this "comfortable". Also I was having a bit of soreness at the top of my butt that I guessed might be sciatica from the low hanging pack rubbing at the top of my butt. So I tightened up the straps quite a bit, causing the pack to ride much higher. This was much more comfortable and allowed me to walk more naturally upright. The butt pain also went away. So that seems to be a big improvement. First thing this morning at the Holiday Motor Lodge here in Pearisburg I packed up. Then I emailed the above summary to the folks following my walk. Walked over to the Post Office to mail a box. At 10 am Don Raines picked me up for shuttle back to trail at Cross Ave. Followed trail down into town and then across the Senator Shumate Bridge, high over the New River. Trail passes near Celanese Plant on bank of New River. Had a hot climb up the ridge to the top of Peters Mountain. About eight people pass me on the climb. Am told that the water source at Rice Field Shelter is dry. Shortly after along trail is a nicely flowing spring just off the trail where I fill my water bottles. Much thunder and a little rain falling late in the afternoon. Solo camp in woods along trail just north of Symms Gap. Sky clears into evening.