Date: 2015-04-30
From: Mountain Harbor Hostel, Roan TN

To: Moreland Gap Shelter
Miles today: 18.4
Weather: scattered clouds

Mountain Harbour hostel is also a B&B, which means, of course, that they specialize partly in serving breakfast. In this case, they really go overboard with the breakfast. And the good news is that in addition to including it with the bed part of the B&B, they offer it for a price ($12 if you must know) to the hikers staying in the bunkhouse above the horse barn, just down the hill from the house. I know, I was skeptical about getting my money's worth at that rate, but hiker gossip along the Trail said do it, so I did. And wasn't a bit sorry.The photo only shows my first plateful, and it fails to convey the beauty of the sight and aromas from that kitchen island. It also leaves off the row of gourmet coffee flavoring syrups to choose from, and the bowl full of tea bag selections, the biscuits and gravy that I didn't sample, and the warmth of the people operating the kitchen, like a well-oiled machine, both in serving and then clean up. It was all-you-can-eat, and several times, admonitions to clean it all up because they don't want any leftovers. We did our best, but when a hiker named Twister showed up, saying he'd been up and hiking since 4am (over 9 tough miles of highland) just to have their breakfast, a few offerings were put on a plate and more coffee was poured. Too bad he missed out on that rich french toast with honey - praline syrup, and the egg/asparagus and cheese souffl©...those were long gone.Well anyhow, during breakfast I discovered the house had free wifi so I decided since people have been telling me to stop and smell the roses more, and not be in such a hurry to hike all day (to which I reply, but that's what I came for, to hike, after all) I would linger over a second cup of coffee and catch up on Trail Journals awhile. The trouble with that was I had an appointment with my trail angel in Hampton on Friday afternoon, and miles to cover. Today's miles planned:18 plus. I left the hostel at a shockingly late time of 10:30. Good thing the Trail was a bit less strenuous terrain. I started out hiking the first part of the day with Twister, while the sun was out. We visited a side trail to see Jones Falls and take photos. Later, he stopped to eat lunch near a river, and put his feet in the water. I hiked on and soon it started raining, so I put on my rain jacket and pack cover. Then it stopped raining, I got too warm, took off the jacket. And repeat, all afternoon. Lots more streams to cross. More waterfalls, different shapes and sizes. A long section in rhododendron forest, then back into woods, in and out of rain jacket, in and out of rain showers. The weather just couldn't make up its mind, and a few times it even rained just as the sun came out again. Eventually, I did arrive at my destination, beginning to be chilled, and glad to see a campfire already lit to warm my hands. There was room in the shelter for me, but a front was coming in, and the shelter opening was toward the windward side: recipe for a cold night. I set up my tent behind the shelter, using it as a wind break instead. Then I went way, way down the hill into a ravine to collect drinking and cooking water...I'm sure that added at least another half mile to my long day, but of course, it doesn't "count", since water source trails are blue-blazed, not white. Soon after I finished my rather late supper, I went to prep my overnight gear in my tent and a sudden high wind arose, bringing with it a brief, but potent pouring, driving rain, mixed with hail. See photo of that, plus many others, in my Photo tab. It was a wet, wild, windy, and very cold night. Though huddled into my layers, I don't think I was ever quite warm, and I went to sleep wishing for a steaming hot bath and heaps of fluffy soft blankets. P.s. 400 miles today, just about at the river, where I left Twister to his lunch.