Date: 2007-07-12
From: Punchbowl Shelter

To: Marble Spring Campsite
Miles today: 18.2

Whoops. Overslept this morning. didn't hear the alarm due to the earplugs. I wake Chief up and we are packed and ready to go before the Quaker kids even wake up. We had hoped it might rain last night but, alas, no. It is a bit cooler and breezier. The hardest climb of the day was the first thing, going up Punchbowl Mountain and Bluff Mountain. At the top of Bluff Mountain is a memorial to the four year old that died 100 years ago and supposedly haunts Punchbowl shelter. We didn't see any ghosts so Ottie must not be haunting these days. I also get cell service up on top of the mountain and check in with Gob. Turns out our schedules are not going to jive but hopefully we will cross paths at some point.We have heard that there is a forest fire in the James River Face Wilderness but we don't see any smoke. Chief's doing a good job of keeping up with me today and we enjoy a few breaks along the way. One of them is at a rock overlook of the James River. Nice little place to camp. From here we have to hike down Rocky Row and it gets it's name honestly as it is ROCKY. We can see the FAA dome on top of Apple Orchard Mountain and Thunder Hill, but no smoke. I am hoping everything is cleared up as I don't want to have to miss this section of trail. We have a nice walk along Rocky Row Run stream and it really heating up as it is noon or 1 and we get to the road at the James River. Chief seeks out some shade while I try for a hitch. A forest firefighter in a Ranger SUV pulls into the parking lot and I inquire about the fire. The trail is currently open as the rain they had two days ago has subdued the fires. From lightning strikes and satellite imagery, they can determine that the fire started on June 24th and went undetected for 14 days. It currently is burring about 300 acres but has the potential to get up to 1000 acres. Because it is a wilderness area they are letting it burn but are taking precautions so that it does not spread to private property. This means putting up firewalls which means getting the land to mineral soils. The ranger is kind enough to give us a ride to town. He is one brave man to work forest fires. I wish that I had asked his name and taken his picture. He drops us off as the Tired Feet Cafe and Motel in Glasgow and Chief and I enjoy cheeseburgers and fries and soft drinks. I thought that I was in the South but I can't get a Diet Coke to save my life. It's all Pepsi up here in VA. Across the street is a huge dinosaur with a She-Ra riding it. I run over to the PO to pick up my maps and send more stuff home like my rain jacket (it never rains and even if it did I wouldn't wear it - It's just get wet, a free natural shower!) Chief gets a room at the motel. He's decided it is too hot to go on and his wife can pick him up tomorrow. So I re-supply out of his food bag and he even gives me his bearbag rope. It's an Anti-Gravity piece and it works well for bearbag challenged people like me. And it's much lighter weight than the one I'm currently hauling. He steps outside with me while I try for a hitch. He's a good man and I am going to miss hiking with him. My hitch is a bit peculiar. He looks like a man who never grew out of his geeky stage, but something about him has me on high alert the whole 5 miles back to the trail. He's smoking and his voice is monotone with a staccato beat like a sing-songy robot. I am happy when he drops me off at the trail and pulls out of the parking lot. I cross the James River Bridge - the longest foot traffic only bridge on the trail. I see some turtles swimming in the river. It's a nice walk to the next shelter along the river. I fill up on water at the shelter and decide to push on another 5 miles to a spring and campsite. I also found some trail magic in the shelter - a Natural Ice Beer! I'll chill it tonight in the spring and have it with dinner tonight. Climbing up the mountain form the river I meet Ukulele, another nobo I had met earlier in TN. He's the last of the bunch, taking his time hiking. He is going to get off at Harper's Ferry. He tells me about some huckleberries on the ridge. MMMmm, an appetizer along the trail. The trail flattens out a bit and becomes a ride walk to Marble Spring. Along the ridge, I get to a point where I can smell and see the smoke. I can not see any flames. This is a good thing. The campsite is huge and I get some water, chill my beer, cook dinner and make camp. It's really breezy here so I know I'll sleep well. It gets dark while I am eating dinner and I can hear a deer walking around in the woods while I eat. I bearbag my food with my new rope. It works like a charm.