Date: 2017-09-23
From: West Carry Pond Lean-to

To: US 201, Caratunk, ME/Caratunk House B&B Hostel
Miles today: 14.0
Weather: scattered clouds

9/23West Carry Pond Lean-to to US 201, Caratunk, ME/Caratunk House B&B Hostel14.0 miles Total miles: 2038.6It's never fun to hike with a deadline, but there was one today. I was up at 5:00 and did my morning chores by headlamp. I was on the trail by 6:30. We had 13.7 miles to cover to get to the Kennebeck River, and the canoe ferry stops operating at 2:00. Southbounders told me the trail was pretty reasonable, so we were optimistic about our chances. The first ten miles went well, and we made good time. The forest was beautiful, and we passed several large ponds. At East Carry Pond the sun was shining so brilliantly that it was difficult to look at the water. I took a chance and took a photograph, which turned out very well. We arrived at Pierce Pond Lean-to at 11:30, leaving us two-and-a-half hours to cover 3.6 miles. You will probably guess that the trail became much more difficult at this point and you would, of course, be correct. The trail followed alongside Pierce Pond Stream and became steep, rocky, and rooty. The stream was spectacular and included several waterfalls. Unfortunately, I was unable to give it the attention I would have liked, due to the upcoming deadline. I was still able to stop briefly on several occasions to admire its beauty. I was still optimistic we would make it, but doubts grew. I had a slight misadventure while crossing a foot bridge that consisted of one log to walk across while holding on to two other logs that ran parallel and a few feet above the other log. I had already become complacent about cinching the cord that holds my main water bottle, and when I leaned down to get positioned to climb onto the bridge, my bottle fell out, slid down a boulder, and came to rest in a crevice about five feet below the bridge. I was able to scramble down and retrieve it without too much difficulty. The trail eventually improved, and we made it to the Kennebeck at 1:15. I could see the canoe on the other side of the river. Soon, Craig the ferryman, paddled across to ferry us across the river. The ferry service is another classic AT experience, and there is even a white blaze painted in the bottom of the canoe. Craig, who completed a northbound thru hike in 2005 has been helping ferry hikers across since 2003. I signed a waiver, put on a life jacket, and manned the front paddle as we crossed the river. Shortly after we crossed, the river began to rise rapidly due to a release of water at a dam upstream. The river rose several feet in a few minutes and became very swift. There is good reason why fording the Kennebeck is so strongly discouraged. After helping Craig carry the canoe up the bank, Tengo, Gravity, and I headed for the Caratunk House B&B Hostel. Housed in a building built in the 1880s, the hostel is a beautiful building with real charm. It is a great place to stay, and the milk shakes are first rate (I had two). Tengo and I shared a room for $20 a person. A great deal anywhere. The owner, Paul, aka One Braid, thru hiked the AT in 1990 and in 1992. He also thru hiked the PCT in 1994 and did a two-year split trip in 2004-2005. A political activist for civil rights, Paul received an official citation from the legislature in Maine for a 395 mile walk he made across Maine in the winter of 1998, encouraging citizens to vote against repealing the state's new law guaranteeing rights for its gay citizens. Paul is a wonderful, thoughtful, and compassionate man, and we enjoyed a long conversation this evening. I purchased my resupply items for the upcoming three day hike to Monson from his well-stocked store. He then shuttled Gravity, Tengo, Indiana Jane, and me to the Kennebec River Brewery, where we enjoyed dinner and a pint. Breakfast is at 7:00, and then we will hit the trail for Monson, which will be my last resupply point before reaching Mount Katahdin. I've looked over the last section of my guidebook, and an October 5th summit date looks likely, which will be exactly six months since I left home. I'm enjoying the spectacular scenery of Maine and the warm friendship of her citizens as I prepare for this little adventure of mine to draw to a close.