Date: 2003-09-15
From: Mount Washington, NH - Gorham, NH

To: Mt. Washington - Gorham, NH
Miles today: 34.5
Weather: scattered clouds

Mt. Washington - Gorham, NH34.5 miles (1874.7 total miles)Although it was mostly sunny on day 164, the summit of Mt. Washington was mostly cloudy. We got some stuff at the snack bar, and took our pictures on the summit. It was a little windy, but not bad. We had a lot to hike, so we left earlier than we wanted to. We had just hiked down a little, when we saw the cog railroad. There is a tradition that says because the cog brings tourists up the easy way, and pollutes and stinks up the air, the thru-hiker are supposed to moon the cog. I was a little far away, so I doubt anyone saw me, but I did my part in mooning the cog.We hiked down and around some great peaks. It was rocky and hard on the feet, but an incredible trail. It wound through the mountains with amazing views on all sides. We came to Madison Hut, which was the only hut we've found to be friendly to thru-hikers. I had some brownies for a buck, but it was getting late.The trail went .4 up Madison, probably the steepest climb I have seen on the trail. Then we followed the ridge way down. We hit treeline for the first time in 13 miles (32 hours). It was hard to be crashing down the rocks so steep. It took us 3.5 hours to hike 3 miles. The last half hour was with our headlamps. We got to Osgood tentsite at about 7:45. It was a long day.We left in a hurry on day 165. There was a trail junction at the tentsite, and the trail turned very gentle. We did an easy 5 miles to Pinkham Notch. There were pay showers at the visitor center.After my shower, I met my mom and step-dad at the visitor center. They brought my friends and I to lunch, the outfitters, laundromat, grocery store, and Wendys. My mom even put fabric softener into my laundry! It was a fun and productive day. Thanks for all your help. We drove back to the visitor center, and hiked out about a half mile to find a tentsite.I was awakened in the early hours of day 166 by strange noises in the woods. There was a moaning and stomping through the woods. It must have been moose. They hung around our tentsite for about a half hour. Finally I heard them leave, some splashing through the stream below, and some stomping through the forest above. I finally slept easier when everything quieted down.It was a frustrating day of hiking. It was a sudden steep ascent. We climbed about 2500 feet straight up. It took a very long time. We finally hit the top where there was a gondola bringing tourists up to the top of the Wildcat ski mountain. The trail followed steep rock faces way up and way down, with no views or payoffs. It was a hot day, and we were dragging so slow.We hiked way too long to get to Carter Hut. I was so exhausted over slightly over 5 miles. What a long slow day. We stayed for about an hour. Then it was a steep climb over Carter Dome. I was getting frustrated with the day, and turned that into energy. I ran up the mountain, mad at our slow speed and my sore muscles.I finally rested at the top of Carter Dome, and waited for my hiking partners. We hiked over one last peak, then down to Zeta Pass. There were hidden tentsites at the pass, and we stopped. It was only 8.5 miles on the day. How could I be so tired after such a short day? We had some extra miles to make up on day 167. We left by 7:00, and hiked immediately up over Carter peaks. The trail was actually a trail again, instead of granite rock faces, so we made good time. We hit a steep down, which took a very long time. Then we climbed for a few miles, then hit another insanely steep down. It was tiring mentally and physically. I got a blister on my hand from clutching my hiking pole too hard on the descents.We finally hit a shelter, and the trail levelled out. We hiked down to Route 2, where we found a past thru-hiker shuttling people around. He gave us a ride into Gorham. We were tired, and wanted to sleep a little more comfortable than a hostel. Aunt Susie and Doug (who took me to the trailhead in March) sent money to me in Gorham to spoil myself with a real motel room. Wow, trail magic all the way rom Atlanta! Thanks! It was a room much appreciated.The Whites were beautiful, but exhausting. It seems like everyone in town in tired, but also feeling the pressure of finishing on time. There is a tension among thru-hikers now. And in the background is the question of what to do when it's all over. We should hit Maine in 2 days. How exciting! 297.9 miles to Katahdin!