Date: 2007-09-25
From: White House Landing Wilderness Camp

To: Rainbow Stream Lean-to
Miles today: 15.9
Weather: scattered clouds

I slept well last night because I was the only one in the bunkhouse. For the first time on this trip I slept in a bunkhouse where I didn't hear anyone snoring! I woke up about 4 AM to hear loons calling from the lake. This is a sound that will always remind me of the AT in Maine and I am really going to miss it.I was packed and ready to go by 7.30. It looked like it was going to be a hot and humid day. I went over to the lodge where Bill had coffee and breakfast ready. We had a real good visit while he was cooking and I was eating. I was their only guest and Bill cooked a fine hot breakfast that was included in the night's lodging rate. There was a great view looking down Pemadumcook Lake from the breakfast table! The lake surface was as smooth as glass and fish were rising everywhere. We could hear a Bald Eagle calling from up the bay somewhere and a large flock of Canada Geese were sitting on the surface across the lake talking to each other. It was a wonderful morning to sit and enjoy a hot cup of coffee overlooking a big Maine lake. Whitehouse Landing turned out to be a very enjoyable visit and I recommend it to anyone wanting to relax for a few hours with good folks and a fine view.Bill took me back across the bay and dropped me at their dock about 10.00. It was time for me to move on if I was going to make my objective for this evening.It took about half an hour to walk the 1.1 miles back to the AT. Although Whitehouse Landing is a bit off the Trail, the good hosts and great place were well worth the extra miles. From here the trail followed upstream along Nahmakanta Stream to the Nahmakanta Lake outflow. Bill had told me the stream had good fishing for brook trout and landlocked salmon. It looked like a nice creek to wade and fish and I guessed it didn't get much fishing pressure being this far from any roads. Looking into the stream at a few trout lined up in nice holding lies I suddenly wished that I had packed my fly rod!I took a short break at the beach at the south end of Nahmakanta Lake. There was a nice view looking up the full 6+ miles of the lake. There was also a stiff north wind blowing directly down the lake pushing whitecaps up on the beach. Soon a float plane came in and landed at the north end of the lake, probably at a wilderness camp. It stayed for about 15 minutes then took off and headed south out of sight. Float planes are a nearly daily sight along the AT here in Maine.The trail up the west side of the lake became increasingly rocky and slow going. There was a nice view up the lake at every turn of the trail but the rough surface prevented me from enjoying it without stopping. Whenever I tried to look at the view while walking I immediately tripped over an exposed root or rock.Just beyond Wadleigh Stream Lean-to the trail climbed steeply up Nesuntabunt Mountain for nearly 1,000' in less than a mile. It topped out at a nice lookout that overlooked the north end of Nahmakanta Lake and the camp where the float plane had landed earlier this morning. There was also a superb view of Katahdin in the distance. The day was hot (65) and humid so the mountain was only barely visible thru the thick haze. What was visible was the fact tht I have gotten a lot closer than I was at the last view point on Whitecap Mt. So I guess I must be making progress, slow as it seems on days like today.The trail down from Nesuntabunt Mt to Crescent Pond was also very rough and rocky and seemed to take forever to cover only about 2 miles. It seems that no miles come easy in Maine. There are definitely no northern Virginia cruising trails in Maine! The trail then followed up Rainbow Stream all the way up to the Rainbow Stream Lean-to. This entire stretch was also a rocky and rooty mess and required constant attention to where I placed each foot. It was a real workout just to maintain a 2 mph pace; by the end of the day nearing 15 miles the constant rocks and roots became tiring and tedious.The leaves have begun to change much more noticably within the past week. Fall is definitely in the air, on the fern fronds, and on most leaves still clinging to branches and twigs. At places along the stream the maples were in full flame color. There were also places where the trail was carpeted with fallen red leaves. It appears that many leaves are changing color then immediately falling off because the leaves on the ground are often brilliant red while the leaves in the forest canopy show only a hint of color while still mostly green.