Date: 2003-09-02
From: Crocker Cirque Campsite

To: Stratton, ME
Miles today: 7.3
Weather: overcast clouds

North and South Crocker Mountains were rough on us. A hefty climb right out of the ol' sleeping bag. I got a charlie horse in my left calf and also left gluteal. I was hopping around the steep rocks, pounding on the spasm.Ha! Yeah, the Crockers were rough on us.Mornings in Maine are quite chilly. I like that for hiking. It's been down in the 30s some nights, and breezy. The days up there rarely get above 60. When hiking, it may be in the 40s with windchill, and I am hiking in sleeveless top and shorts. When I chill, I regulate temperature with my hat and gloves, off or on. When I stop, on goes a shell.More signs of fall on Sept. 2 - the bunchberry foliage is turning burgundy, the ferns are browning up and the birches are starting to turn yellow. Looking out across the expanses, one can see yellow spackling crawling down from the tops of the mountains.On the way down, I watch a red squirrel eating a purple fir cone like an ear of corn, holding it in its little paws and working down a row. Since Vermont, we've been seeing piles of fir scales. They're quite colorful - purple at the tips, then fuchsia, then yellow. Sometimes there is a bit of green or brown in there too. Red squirrels, playing their part in the forest ecology. One races me 12 feet down the path today, then darts across the Trail, right at my feet. It makes me laugh out loud.Despite the fall chill, I still haven't collected my 20 degree bag from the post office. I keep bouncing it ahead, which you can do if it is sent priority and it is unopened. For the gearheads out there, here is how I am making my 40-45 degree bag work: - I have a lovely Jagbag silk liner, which helps maybe five degrees. It also keeps the inside of the bag clean and free of dirt, ski grease, sunscreen, bug dope, sweat, etc. The liner is easy to wash (but don't put silk in the dryer).- Then I add clothing. The advantage of fleece pants, a hat and my Moonstone jacket is versatility - I can also wear them around camp.- My ultimate secret weapon is a near-weightless fleece neck warmer. I put that baby on and just toast. More often than not, I am taking it off shortly after the bag warms up. Let it blow.Finch joins us for the trek down. At the Trailhead - surprise! - Judy (Ma Finch) is waiting for her husband. She gives us and Cobra and Splash a ride to town and the post office. Our long distance trail angel strikes again.At the post office, I get a package from Triple Crown hiking friend Slyman. It's full of useful, carefully selected items like pepperoni, Slim Jims and a little bottle of Bailey's Irish Creme. Thanks, Sly! He also promises to show me how to use a map and compass this fall on NC's spectacular Black Crest Trail, with its hefty lineup of 6,000 footers.I also get a package I had bounced forward from Rangeley, another from my most faithful trail angel eArThworm. Among the excellent treats are a handful of coupons for FREE Ben and Jerry's ice cream! The way to a hiker's heart... Thank you Linda!I bunk at the White Wolf motel, and swoon at my own private room, though I never could figure out how to make the shower work.I also collect an Itchy report from friend Roger - Itchy set forth into The Hundred Mile Wilderness yesterday. No phones in there, but he should summit sometime in the next 8 days or so. GO ITCHY! You're almost finished!He's about a week ahead of me, and Commander-in-Chief is now only a week behind me. I do believe she will catch me. Perhaps we can do The Wilderness together.