Date: 2021-06-18
From: Pond near start of Hundred Mile Wilderness (mile 15.5)

To: Rainbow Stream Lean-to (mile 30.1)
Miles today: 15.6
Weather: clear sky

Daylight woke me around 4 and the sun was up not long after. It was chillier than I expected, but not uncomfortable. I slept only in underwear and a T-shirt so I could have added more layers. A cold spot runs along the zipper of my 45-degree sleeping bag. I rolled over and suddenly it was almost eight, with full sun warming the tent. There was splashing in the pond. This time I had a full view of the moose causing the ruckus. It was smallish, with antlers that still had velvet on them. It walked along the pond's edge not five yards from my tent like I wasn't even there, stopped for a few seconds while I unsuccessfully scrambled for my camera, then moved on. I met Wildflower and Mando as I was heading back to the campstore. They stayed at the Abol campground with her parents. Even though the couple has already hiked Springer to Newfound Gap in the Smokies, Wildflower's Mom worries about her and wanted to see her safely off Katadin. The campstore was open and, in another bit of serendipity, the owner was about to make sandwiches for the day, so I not only got a supply of cheese sticks and cookies and a cold tea, but a big freshly-made hoagie for lunch. Caught up with Wildflower and Mando at Hurd Brook Lean-to. Mando is a schoolteacher who's a big advocate of bringing technology into the classroom, at least for older kids. They're from central Mississippi but looking to relocate to an area with more hiking opportunities. With every state needing teachers his certificate is accepted almost everywhere.Three NOBOs were just leaving the shelter. Two older guys, Rumbles and No Filter, who started near Marion, Virginia and are flipping back down to finish. With them is a guy about my age, Mr. Freeze, who started in Georgia on February 1st (on the Approach Trail he made sure to note!) and also journals on Trailjournals.com. He recognized me from my journal last year. He'll be finished by the time this posts. Congrats, Mr. Freeze!After an hour I headed on and soon ran across Dreamer, a white-bearded Erie native, sprawled on the trail in the shade eating an early lunch. He wrote a book about his 2006 thruhike and has sectioned most of it again since. His right calf sports a large AT tattoo, belying his mild-mannered appearance. In his 70s, he's taking his time through the Widerness and enjoying the moment, shaking his head at hikers who are in a hurry. He started journaling in his 40s after discovering a journal left by his grandmother at the same age. He got to know a woman that he otherwise remembered mostly for her oatmeal raisin cookies.The trail climbed over Rainbow Ledges for a view of Katahdin. The blueberry bushes that I fondly remember picking over in August are just starting to flower. Hiking along Rainbow Lake I was becoming sweaty in the 80 degree heat and hungry. I stopped for a swim among the boulders along the shore, then sat on a rock, ate my hoagie and gazed over the lake while I dried off.By 4:30 I made it to Rainbow Stream Lean-to where I dropped my pack and backtracked along the stream to immerse myself in a tub under a small waterfall. The roiling water made a natural spa and the pounding waterfall gave an excellent massage. After drying off I met a hiker named The Wolf enjoying a smoke. He's from Georgia, 39, ex-Army, and an Afghan vet. He had dayglo painted nails as a lark and was taking it easy southbounding, watching hikers who started after him pass by. "Twenty-two year olds, man!" he laughed, as he explained young Henry had kept going.Stopping at the shelter to use the privy was a four man trail crew from the MATC. Led by a 2019 thruhiker, they were working on placing stone steps a half mile south of the lean-to. It's a two day job and doesn't require power tools, just back-breaking work. I thanked them for all their effort. After experiencing a few bushwhacks I well know the benefits and the cost of maintaining a well-built trail. Julia and Joker, the couple I stayed with at Katahdin Stream, were here, but decided to push on a few miles. I'm surprised they are in such a hurry this early. I suspect Joker, the multiple thruhiker, might be encouraging his girlfriend to do too much too soon.After I ate a satisfying tuna wrap dripping with olive oil, a young northbounder named ID came through. He was nearing the end of a 33 mile day and wearing a head net. He's 20 and got his name by being carded for a beer at Standing Bear Hostel outside the Smokies. Which is hilarious to anyone who's been there, because the helpers there are frequently stoners or drunks and have been known to deal drugs on the side. ID took off after a brief rest to go a few more miles this evening. Soon after, his young friend zipped through, then another, then another guy named Young Chef who stopped for water. He whips up vegan meals on the trail, including hummus today. But variety is challenging out here and he's looking forward to getting back to a real kitchen. I decided to stay the night rather than hike another 7 or 8 miles to the next shelter. Tomorrow I will see if I can stay at White House Landing 15 miles away. The Wolf is also staying, but he went off to tent to avoid the mosquitoes. They've been mildly annoying most of the day but the Picaridin seems to work well wherever I spray it.