Date: 2014-07-23
From: Strafford Notch Campsite mile 177.2

To: Maine 27, Stratton ME mile 188.2
Miles today: 10.4

Today's route includes a long, steep climb over the two peaks of Bigelow Mountain: Avery Peak and West Peak. Then a long steep descent to the highway to Stratton. Afternoon thundershowers were predicted; so I got up early in an effort to get off the exposed mountain tops and down as much of the descent as possible before the rain hit. The climb was as hard as I expected it to be. On the way up I asked a northbound hiker if Bigelow was as difficult as the Maine mountains he had climbed. To my dismay he explained that the ones I have facing me are even worse. I made it over the peaks and Horn's Pond before the rain started, but had to do the last five miles including most of the steep descent in the rain. Horn's Pond is called a Mountain Tarn, a word I had not seen before which I think means a glacier-formed, high mountain lake. With the pending weather I did not take the side trail to see the lake. The views from the top of Bigelow were not blocked out by the clouds and pending storm, but they were not clear enough to make good pictures. The rain came down heavy, but my rain gear worked pretty well with the exception of my pack cover. As I struggled down the rocks I felt something bouncing against the seat of my rain pants. I found that water had gotten under my pack cover and collected at the bottom of it where a cup or two was bouncing against my ass each time I took a step. I am generally alone on the trail so it is a pleasant surprise when I meet someone. A mile or two down the descent in the thunderstorm I was easing myself over a series of slick rocks when a voice spoke behind me. I turned around to find a northbound hiker stretched out under a poncho beneath an overhanging boulder waiting for the downpour to let up a bit before making his way up to the next shelter. I was relieved to reach Maine 27 and head to a hot shower, restaurant meal and dry bed in Stratton instead of crawling into a damp shelter or soggy tent. While waiting for the Stratton Motel owner to pick me up at the trail head I read a koisk sign that explained that the next section of the trail includes the last link of the full 2000 mile path to be completed. A difficult mountain section completed by CCC crews in 1937. Another tribute to a valuable program and as John McCutcheon's song describes them "The Boys in Green". When I got cleaned up I discovered a new problem. After 1000 miles with no shoulder problems my pack straps have rubbed raw places on each shoulder. I do not know whether I have adjusted something wrong or whether it is a result of the straps being soaked by the rain or whether my body has now lost all of its normal padding and the straps are resting right on op of my shoulder bone. I had a lonely but delicious salad, kale and fish supper at the White Wolf Inn. Portions were so large that even with my hiker's appetite I did not have room for dessert. When I quit hiking I will have to be very disciplined about changing my eating habits in order to preserve a healthy weight. I have come across several prior hikers who since finishing have put on lots of weight and become obese.