Date: 2018-05-30
From: Erwin, Tennessee

To: Grayson Highlands
Miles today: 145.0

Erwin, Tennessee to Grayson Highlands, VA has been a section packed full of experiences, milestones and adventure.  Throughout this section I have passed the 400 and 500 mile markers, I have completed North Carolina and Tennessee, have had even more bear encounters, and have continued the battle with the rain.  My first two days after Erwin were long, difficult, and wet.  On the second day, I marched extra hard to try to get to a shelter to get out of the rain only to find a shelter packed full with hikers who had the same idea.  I decided to continue to march on. After about an hour, the rain lifted and I stumbled upon a beautiful field with its own water source.  I decided to settle in this spot.  That evening I was witness to a double rainbow right in camp (see pictures) and a night sky so clear that I could see the Milky Way.  Then, first thing the next morning I had yet another bear encounter, making this the 5th bear I have seen.  I was hiking by myself, which is the case 95% of the time, early the next morning and heard something to my left.  I turned to see a bear about 30 yards from me sprint down hill in my direction and skirt up a tree.  It was wild to see the strength and athleticism displayed by this bear.  It then hung in the tree about 15 ft up and we had about a 5 to 8 second stand off staring at one another.  The bear then slid down the tree and took off back up the hill.  I think it was equally as nervous of my presence as I was of the bear's.  It was definitely a really cool experience.  These back to back monumental moments stand out to me as they occurred after a couple of difficult rainy days.  It stands testament as to how quickly things can change out on the trail.  Things can change in a matter of minutes, whether for an improvement or an unexpected challenge (which were stumbled upon as I will describe in a bit).  After leaving North Carolina, I entered the final 72 miles of uninterrupted Tennessee trail.  This section was beautiful, as it included several waterfalls, creeks, canyons, and grassy fields.  The landscape constantly reminded me of the Skynyrd line 'Have you ever seen the beauty of the hills of Carolina, or the sweetness of the grass in Tennessee..?'  Because of all the rain, the waterfalls were nice and full, making them even more of a spectacle.  However, I also discovered that due to the rain, Lake Watauga was the fullest I have ever seen it to be.  It was overflowing its banks and innundated about a quarter of a mile in 3.5 feet of water.  Even though this part of the trail was temporarily closed, I braved it anyway and embraced the challenge.  A very interesting unexpected challenge generated by days and days of excessive rain.The next day I put in my longest day yet in order to make it to Damascus, VA (32 miles).  Making it to this town enabled me to make it home for a few days for a little recovery and gear repair (boots and mouse chewed jacket and food bag!)  I was also able to slack pack the Grayson Highlands section and avoid tropical storm Alberto.  Slack packing refers to taking a day pack with intention of exiting the trail after the hike, allowing the hiker to lighten their load.  I had some familiar faces join me for the hike, which is always uplifting, as well.  During our hike we were witness to the wild horses of Grayson Highlands and all of their newborns.  Truly a sight to see.  We also summited Mount Rogers, the highest peak in the entire state of Virginia.  I will be returning to the trail tomorrow to embrace more days of rain, yet a relatively flatter trek.  I will also be returning to the trail a few much needed pounds heavier than when I came off.  When I exited the trail in Damascus, I was down 15lbs, thinnest I have been in 11 years.  I am officially a quarter finished the entirety of the AT.  I am continuing my 500 miles through Virginia before I find myself half way finished on the other side.  I will continue to update as I can.  I love you all.