Date: 2009-09-22
From: Crocker Cirque Campsite

To: Horns Pond Lean-To
Miles today: 12.4
Weather: overcast clouds

The mornings are becoming a bit of a struggle. I could easily roll over and snooze a bit longer but yesterday I didn't have enough food to justify a short day and today I had enough for breakfast and nothing more. Town beckoned; the sooner I got going the sooner I would wallow in its delights.My original plans had been to stop in Stratton, get a hotel room, wash clothes, you know the sort of thing, but now I couldn't quite see the point. It was 5 miles to town but only 2 to a small grocery store? A 4 mile round trip and I could be resupplied and back in the hills. It wasn't a hard decision.I spent 2 hours at the store: starting with Ice Cream, a Milky Way and some Doritos; following that with another Milky Way and some Mountain Dew; next I then ditched my trash in the dumpster (including my by now completely wrecked trail shoes) and bought and organising 4 more days of food. A hot ham and cheese sandwich, 2 pints of milk and a newspaper were next on my list; and finally, after speaking to some of the locals, I topped up my water bottle and was on my way.Its strange; when town lies just around the corner I long to get there but having arrived I am soon long to get out. In those circumstances, today had been brilliant. I achieved what I wanted, skipped nothing essential and was off again: a spring in my step; enjoying the warm afternoon sunshine; and admiring the fall foliage.Maine's fantastic. You can pretty much forget the rest, just walk Maine. Its tremendous. It has the usual forest, streams, trail and hills; then later maybe some ponds and mountains and views; and then there is the wildlife (or at least that was what it was like today).I stopped by a quiet pond mindful of the stories I have been told of moose splashing about in just such places. I thought if I paused I might get lucky. Maybe way off on the far bank, well out of harms way, one of these big gangly and somewhat kooky looking creatures might take an afternoon stroll. I sat down, reached for my food bag, gazed out across the lake and waited. And I was not to be disappointed, although I also never saw a moose.No, just a dark shape out on the water. A dark shape coming closer. A dark shape heading directly towards me. A beaver. It was still quite far away but inexorably heading my way. By now I was sure it knew I was there and I was convinced it had come to check me out. Closer and closer it came, looking straight at me. It had a stick in its little hands. I could see its fingers and when it stopped to nibble on the stick I could hear the gnawing sound. I thought I could hear it sniffing the air, I could certainly see its nostrils flaring. By now it was maybe 15 yards away. Circling slowly in the water behind a dam it had no doubt helped construct. Once, and only once, it dived under the water, slapping its tail on the still water with that resounding slap that shouts 'beaver'. Again it nibbled its stick. It seemed completely at ease. I was enchanted. A magical moment.Heading on the trail was steep, the weather was hot and I was sweaty. Time was wearing on and the view point at the top was perhaps a tad disappointing. I walked on. By now I was pretty much just focussing on reaching camp and so when a second viewpoint was signposted I swithered. I teetered on the brink of heading on. I didn't want to be disappointed. I didn't want a tiny negative to spoil my great afternoon but, then again, nothing ventured nothing gained. I'd probably regret it but lets see ...Wow! What a spot. Horns pond nestled below; the twin peaks of Bigelow Mtn behind; the perfect slab of rock to admire it all from. It was without doubt time for dinner. There was something faintly (perhaps very very faintly) reminiscent of Machu Picchu about it all. No lost city, no long lost civilisation, not even a llama in sight but a great spot none the less.