Date: 2008-08-04
From: Otter Pond Stream

To: Horseshoe Canyon Lean-To
Miles today: 30.0
Weather: moderate rain

Finally - a 30-mile hiking day!I¢d planned on starting today much earlier, but then realized the canoe ferry service did not start until 9am. After a mile and a half of hiking I got to the ferry crossing around 9:15am. The crossing was supposed to be open for business at 9am and I was the only person ready to canoe across. The Kennebec is the only river or stream that I could not cross by fording. Several other streams had required a ford in knee-deep water because of recent rains and the resulting high water. The Kennebec's water levels have always been unpredictable because of water releases from a upstream hydroelectric generating facility. At times the water level could rise suddenly by 3 or 4 feet. I was told that in July the canoe ferry service was actually shut down for a period of time because even the canoe could not make the crossing safely. I think the crossing was shut down for around four or five days. I¢m guessing that thru-hikers either had to wait or find some other way to get over the river.It was cloudy most of the day and we got a light rain during part of the day. The trail from Caratunk to the base of Pleasant Mountain was nice, following Holly Brook a good part of the way up (there was about a 400 foot climb). Did a quick stop to read the trail register at Pleasant Pond Lean-To. Then started a really rough (1,100 feet) climb up the side of Pleasant Pond Mountain. Pleasant Pond Mountain is small by most standards, about 2,800 feet in elevation, but the climb is tricky.The mountain is mostly rock, seemingly vertical, and tough. The foot and hand holds were necessary to make it up. It didn¢t help that the rain had made things slippey. Because of a strong wind I could not keep my glasses dry from the rainwater and as I began to sweat my glasses began to fog up. (I¢d learned months ago that you could spit on the lenses and blot them dry ¢ saliva helps prevent fogging). Finally, I made the summit. I was soaked from the rain because I had opted not to wear any rain gear. The rain gear would only have made me hot and wet from my sweat. Hiking in the rain without rain gear is usually more enjoyable because you don¢t get so hot. On top of the mountain was a solid rock summit.After I climbed down the mountain the rain slacked up and it started to clear up. After a while I began to dry out some, only to get wet again when rubbing against the trailside brush and branches that were still wet. Reached Bald Mountain Lean-To and the Moxie Stream. Crossed the stream by boulder-hopping. Looked like the water level was much higher than normal. Then started the climb up the foothills of Moxie Bald Mountain. The elevation change between the lean-to and the top of the mountain is around 1,400 feet.There was a bypass route to avoid Moxie Bald in bad weather. I thought about using it, but decided against it. I had taken a quick break at the lean-to and figured out that I just might have a chance at finally completing a 30-mile day. The weather wasn¢t that bad (no thunderstorms) so I decided to stick to the regular trail.I did not originally think there would be any way to do 30-miles today, what with the climb over Pleasant Pond Mountain. But if I could keep to a 2-mile an hour average pace, I could make it to Horseshoe Canyon Lean-To (exactly 30 miles) by the end of the day. It would be 8pm or later, but there would still be daylight.When I got high enough on Pleasant Pond and some of the other mountains, I began to climb above the tops of the clouds. I remember this happening back in Virginia (?). And without any clouds the rain seemed to stop. Had a great view of the surrounding area. Some of it was also cloudy but the higher peaks stood out like a sore thumb. Reached Moxie Bald lean-to on the base of the other side of Moxie Bald Mountain - it was still foggy and a little bit of mist was coming down. The AT goes around the end of Bald Mountain Pond and then follows Bald Mountain Stream to its junction with the West Branch Piscataquis River, where the river is something like half a football field wide, but relatively shallow. But it took a little bit of time to look for a good spot to cross. Some of the crossing involved stone-hopping, but fording was also necessary. The trail then follows the north bank of the Piscataquis River's West Branch. The river then becomes a deep gorge. When I got near the Horseshoe Canyon lean-to the bank was very steep and high above the river. I didn¢t really think I would be able to get across ¢ at least not at this location. It was now around 8:15pm and I probably had only 20 minutes of daylight left. So I had three choices: camp where I was (and lose the 30-mile day); go upstream/downstream and look for another crossing (by which time it would probably be dark); or try to cross here. I opted to just try to cross where I was. Going down the bank to the river was the worst of it. It was both steep and very muddy. I never even tried to hike down. I just sat down and scooted my way down to the river. It worked. The river fording went okay. The opposite side bank was again steep and muddy. Used my hands to help get up by grabbing whatever roots or rocks I could find. I made it.Got to Horseshoe Canyon Lean-To finally in the dark (around 9pm). Because I was alone, I sat up my tent inside the shelter because the flying insects were pretty bad. I didn¢t think any other hikers would show up later, and they didn¢t.Hey! A 30-mile day! Just about ran out of hiking days before I completed one. I think of those thru-hike ¢racers¢ who would regularly do 30-mile days. I¢m more than happy having just done one.Trail Up Moxie Bald Mountain