Date: 2005-07-24
From: The Lookout

To: Thistle Hill Shelter
Miles today: 14.0
Weather: scattered clouds

The Lookout to Thistle Hill ShelterUnfortunately we weren't able to last the whole night up atop the observation deck. We fell asleep shortly after the sun had fully set. Woke up a couple hours later and saw a bright orange waning moon rise and a sky full of stars. It was quite windy up there, so we snuggled down into the sleeping bag. About half past midnight we woke up to the sound of silence - the wind had stopped and the air was calm. Unfortunately the previously clear sky had clouded over and it was beginning to drip on us. So we gathered up our stuff and retreated into the cabin below. We awoke to rays of glowing red sunlight shining through the windows.The first six miles went fast this morning. We were informed by a section hiker that there was a farm store a .1 mile down RT 12. The store isn't listed in our guide book, so we were especially grateful for the homemade pies and fresh cold milk. We shared a mini 4" pie and some milk - delicious! Then we headed 1.5 mi down the trail to hit the general store for lunch. That 1.5 mi took a little longer than expected over a big, steep nameless climb, and we were disappointed to get to a road with almost no traffic on it. The general store is a full mile off the trail, so walking would add 2 miles to our day. We weren't thrilled about that, but we were willing to do it for grinders and cold drinks. Fortunately not long after we started down the road a friendly gentleman picked us up and delivered us right to the store. We feasted on fresh sandwiches and cold drinks before getting another relatively quick ride back to the trail.The second half of the day was much slower and more difficult than the first half. At RT12 we entered the Dartmouth Outing Club section of trail and it sure seems as though they are philosophically opposed to switchbacks and in favor of going straight up and over every hill, knoll or mountain possible. The whole afternoon consisted of climbing from one road up, up, up then down, down, down to another road and repeating six times. We finally reached Thistle Hill Shelter, sore and tired, but shockingly earlier than expected.Though warmer, the weather was beautiful and clear today with very low humidity. Though the many steep climbs were frustrating, most offered beautiful views from the tops. The mosquitoes are aggressive this evening, so we're hiding in our tent and not doing much socializing with the other campers that are here tonight. Each day I marvel, increasingly more, at how far we've come. Only 456.5 miles to go! Tomorrow we complete Vermont, state #12 and enter New Hampshire, our second to last state. I continue to sway between the conflicting feeling of wanting to finish and that of not wanting the adventure to end. But, I suppose that in another extension of what the trail experience is like: a constant contrast of deprivation against feeling complete, hunger and satisfaction, elation and depression, philosophizing and thoughtlessness, urgency and abundance of time. Hiking is a constant experience of opposites, a roller coaster of emotion, with each experience so powerful and vibrant for all that you have deprived yourself of. The deprivation is a white canvas on which each splash of color is brilliant and delicious.Danger