Date: 2016-03-09
From: Hiawassee, via Dick's Creek Gap 

To: Standing Indian Shelter 
Miles today: 16.7
Weather: overcast clouds

The shuttle from the Budget didn't leave til 9, but Willard and I were up at trail time, around 7:30. My throat swelling had gone down significantly and I was very un-congested! We putzed around, washed up, got a sandwich from Subway and headed out. The (10 person) shuttle was packed with 14 people going to dicks creek and Unicoi. We drove to our stop first and the passengers looked on enviously at Willard's sub. We piled out and I waited for Willard to finish his sandwich. We were the last ones to hit the trail. Pretty immediately, I knew something wasn't right. Willard wasn't keeping up with me the way he normally did and when I asked how he was doing, he only replied "in pain." He finally told me to go on ahead, that he would catch up, and I did that. I didn't see him again. He sent me a text later to the effect that he had returned to Hiawassee to take better care of the raw blisters on the back of his ankles. I don't know when or if I'll be able to find a hiking partner so compatible in pace and personality. I hope he gets back on the trail within a few days, so I can see him again. Most of the day was spent alone, but leapfrogging many other hikers from my and other shuttles. Georgia didn't let up without a fight and threw three serious mountains at us, but nothing was as challenging as the previous day. Then the trail flattened some and I saw a group of hikers up ahead and scattered shouts of joy: the Georgia-North Carolina line! I whooped with happiness and broke out lunch, and took the classic picture. It's funny seeing all these landmarks from the pictures in person. I've created their surrounding landscapes in my head, and so far none have looked anything like what I imagined. Mostly, there's just way less space than I thought. I had imagined he area next to the sign as a rolling knoll with trees or a gap, but it is in fact a very steep hillside. I filled up water and trailed behind a group of five hikers pushing for Standing Indian Shelter, like me. The first miles of North Carolina are brutal. Courthouse Bald was the single toughest hike for me so far on the trail. I passed by the group of five and soon the trail evened and I pushed a good pace. The trail was lovely all the way to Muskrat Creek shelter, and I considered just calling it a day: but I knew that wouldn't fly with my plan for Franklin. So I pushed on. I put on some music to help pass the time: I played the entire Fleet Foxes discography and only had to repeat one song before I found myself at Standing Indian, after a harder 5 miles than I expected (the grade was always easy but bad footing slowed me down). The shelter is smallish, with room only for about 6, and It faced directly into the wind. No thank you. The sites were taken mostly by older couples, but one younger couple had a very cute pit bull named Tulip. She was very angry that I did not share my dinner with her. Later on, the group of five rolled up. This had been their longest day and it seems to have been a failed experiment. They are going to slow up tomorrow. I talked mostly with Captain Chuckles (who is the first person to truly know what Portaging is) and Piglet, a guy about my age from New Orleans. We cooked and hung out as the sun went down then turned in. Tomorrow I am planning another 16 mile day, but this one's terrain will be significantly easier, with the exception of Albert Mountain. I'm sad to have lost Willard as a hiking buddy. Having someone looking out for me and keeping me on pace was lovely, and I'm going to miss him greatly. I really hope his problems improve quickly, because if love to see him back on the trail as soon as possible.