Date: 2014-08-26
From: Stony Brook Shelter

To: Pomfret - South Pomfret Rd
Miles today: 17.4
Weather: scattered clouds

It was seeming like an unremarkable day until I was chased through the woods by two Germans--sort of. I heard a man ahead cursing the yellow flags and otherwise sounding quite angry. I was having thoughts of turning back and going off the side of trail to wait for them the pass by me, but I chanced it and went ahead. It was a man and woman more or less my age. The man calmed down and said, "Oh I'm sorry but we are trying to find the way out of the woods." They were looking for a highway intersection but I explained I had not passed one for ten miles at least. Just a forest road that was hardly used. They were on a day hike up to the lookout but had not actually gone up to it. We were at least a mile from the tower. I suggested they just try going back the way they came. They said, "You lead the way because you're a thru-hiker and will go faster than us". I wondered about that because I had 30 pounds to carry. I started out at a pretty good pace on the level, assuming I would just be going my way and leaving them to get back to the sign for the lookout. But the man stayed right on my heels with the lady stumbling along behind him. She said something and and he said "folgen" or something like that, which I interpreted as just follow. That was the first hint had they might be German. (Dutch sounds similar.) She spoke again as we were speeding up the hill and he responded "nicht fragen" which I interpreted as "Don't ask questions." I was having trouble keeping up the pace on the hills. I thought I was holding them back so kept trying to go forward. Finally, when I was totally out of breath on a long hill and still not close to the top, I pulled over to the side and announced "Ich bin tot mude (sp?)." I think that means I am dead tired. They apologized and said they just didn't want to lose me. I finished the remaining distance to the lookout at a much more relaxed pace. Herr called someone and got directions on how to go back the way he came. We visited a little and enjoyed the view and then they were on their way. [They are German, live in London. Summer in Nantucket.] Frau whispered to me as she passed by me, "He has a lot to learn," and winked at me. And then aloud she said "Hals und beinbruch." I understood the first word as neck but the last two words were together--bein is leg. Which I got when she repeated it. The phrase translates "Break your neck and a leg." It is used to say "good luck!" I was pleased with receiving a genuine blessing again today!There is a cabin on the lookout site and I sat on the front porch and had my lunch while enjoying the view and the cooling breeze. I would like to have sat there the rest of the day and watched the sunset but I have miles and miles to go. I amused myself as I walked by imagining I was seeing a man approaching on the trail carrying a guitar and duffle bag and wearing a white jacket. The first two items would not have been unusual for a hiker but I haven't seen anyone in a white suit. As he got closer I imaged hearing him repeating "I'm all shook up." I said, " Excuse me"? He said "I just got in from the West Coast and 'm all shook up! I said sir, if you follow this trail two miles up to that house on top of the hill and sit on the porch awhile you will find that you are able to relax. Maybe pick your guitar and serenade the birds. A hiker will be along before dark and share some food and hiking stories. I am starting a list of things I want to do after getting back home. One is to find a place to just and while away the hours and not be concerned about the miles left to go. I come to many peaceful spots. sit a spell, or spend the night. And as I strap on the pack, I say, "I would like to take a zero here." And I have a few times, but now I see the leaves of fall starting to sprinkle the trail and I have miles and miles to go. The morning hiking terrain was reasonable with a few places of rocks and ledges. One ledge was so dangerous an aluminum ladder was tied in place. The other way around was to crawl up a narrow rock passage on the edge of a drop-off. I imagine the trail has been more precarious in the past for those early hikers. Later in the day after crossing a narrow valley, the trail was either a lead covered path or pine needles or dirt. That was the good news. The bad news was the up and down part. I crossed over several mountains, each separated by a narrow valley and usually a country road. I lost track of the roads I had crossed and didn't know in which valley I was. Finally I came to one marked on the map by a power-line and a creek. I could have gone another thirty minutes before dark but the creek was too good of a site to pass up for the night. I am thinking the last part of Vermont is like the last part of VA--a roller coaster.