Date: 2018-06-24
From: Waynesboro, VA

To: Harpers Ferry, WV
Miles today: 161.8

I will forever recall this section as the time of extremes...extreme heat, extreme rain, extreme bugs, extreme wildlife, and extreme itchiness.  When I left Waynesboro, I was in the early stages of what would later be diagnosed as an allergic reaction as I entered the Shenandoah National Park.  Before my first day in the park ended, I was subjected to 90 degree temperatures, stagnant air, and high humidity.  This, in addition to a relentless swarm of midges and my allergic reaction manifesting as an intensely itchy rash covering 75% of my body encouraged me to call it an early evening, setting up my tent in a hurry, climbing in naked and laying in a meditative state for 2 hours in attempt not to lose my mind and scratch my skin clean off.  I survived to continue my trek in the blistering heat and humidity the next morning which then turned into days of torrential downpours, flood warnings, and more bugs in between the bouts of rain.  My rash also continued to torment me, leading me to pound Benadryl as my only means to get any sleep at night.  Needless to say, it was a really tough week.  As for the wildlife, there was MUCH more bear activity in the Shenandoah than the Smokies.  I ran into 6 bears in one day!  The first one was about 20 yards off trail undeterred by my presence. We looked at one another for a few minutes before the bear continued down trail.  The second, seen about an hour later, took off barreling through the woods as soon as we made eye contact.  Later that evening, around 7pm, I turned a corner and found myself among 4 bears! Two very large mamas (largest so far), a cub in a tree, and an adolescent on the ground with the others.  I froze and took a few steps back only to have the larger of the two mothers snort at me.  I waited a few minutes for them to move on before I hurried by.  Definitely the most intense bear encounter so far.  Leaving the Shenandoahs I was greeted with 2 inches of rain in two days before my arrival in Harpers Ferry, one of the biggest milestones on the trail as this is the unofficial halfway point!  I also finally exited Virginia!  A big mental milestone as I have been in Virginia for 547 miles.  I also passed the 1000th mile of the trip.  Some people literally cried once they reached this point.  I was too wet, tired, and itchy to get any more emotional than I already had been.  Although it has been the toughest mental week I have had so far, I would not take it back.  Even in the midst of so many struggles, I have still, in several forms, intimately been witness to the divine energy which dictates the universe.  The harder my journey, the more my appreciation grows, and therefore as does my happiness, as appreciation is the precursor to happiness.  I have formed friendships with other hikers in short bouts of time, as they are experiencing similar struggles. It is most definitely true that misery loves company, however not selfishly.  It makes it easier to laugh at the harsh realities of the trail sometimes when you have someone to laugh it off with, giving insight into why the hiker community is such a close one.  I will be taking a train from Harpers Ferry to D.C. tomorrow to check out the museums I have never visited.  I am being met by some familiar faces, as one will be along with me for a few days as I continue my journey into Maryland and Pennsylvania.  I look forward to this time... and hopefully no more itchiness!!  I love you all.