Date: 2015-08-28
From: The Birches Lean-tos

To: Katahdin
Miles today: 5.2

Today was a day like no other day.Today, I climbed Katahdin.Today, I summited the Greatest Mountain, the mountain I have been walking towards for months.150 days after taking my first steps up the Approach Trail with Trail Mentor Alexa, I took the first steps into the last climb up the last mountain.I awoke even earlier than I have the last few days. Upon Muddy Duckling's request, I checked in on Redback (who was in the other of the two shelters at The Birches, with Apple Cider) to make sure she got up and started cooking her breakfast so that she would be ready to go at the same time as her daughters.As usual, I was packed up and ready to go a few minutes before everyone else."I'll see you up there!" I told my sheltermates after wheedling around for a while in indecision over whether I should depart or not.Then I walked to the picnic table where Iso and Redback were eating breakfast, and repeated my message to them. "Be careful!" Iso said, giving me a one-armed hug. I promised that I would, and that I would see them at the summit, and then I set off.I left the last campsite, the last shelter, behind me. Last night, I sorted through my pack and decided what I would bring up the mountain with me. Several nonessential items were stuffed into my garbage bag pack liner, but I took my sleeping bag with me for weight and to fill out my pack so it wasn't lopsided and unbalanced. I also wanted to have a comfortable amount of weight in it, but not so much that it might tip me over on a ledge and send me tumbling down Katahdin - NOT the right way to end the hike.Near the summit, Silent Force made a comment about the fact that I had brought my neon orange shovel with me during the hike. "You never know..." I said in response. SERIOUSLY, IF I HAD TO POOP ON THAT MOUNTAIN, AND I DIDN'T HAVE A SHOVEL... YIKES. Actually, I had to pee really badly during my descent and it was HORRIBLE because I had to wait until I got to an area where I could hide from the zillions of people, AND I had to find a place that wasn't just exposed, dangerous, life-threatening rocks. If I had tumbled to my death with my shorts around my knees... jeez. What a way to go THAT would be. Evenw orse than just tumbling down the ledge to my untimely death.(Note: I did NOT have to dig a poop hole in the rain, thank the AT gods. I have had very regular MORNING privy trips right after I wake up lately. It has been quite wonderful.)On my way back to the trail, I deposited my garbage bag on the porch of the ranger station. And then, I crossed the footbridge and walked once again on the Appalachian Trail.I passed a small group of middle aged hikers preparing for the ascent at the last campsite and then signed in at the trail register at the trail head. The AT follows the Hunt Trail up to Baxter Peak, the very top of Katahdin.This was REALLY it. The end! The last climb! 5.2 miles to the top. 5.2 miles to the end of the journey, the journey I had embarked upon MONTHS ago. The journey that had consumed my imagination for months before and my life for more than 150 days, since I left home for Georgia.I passed three more snow but steady hikers a little later, and then I was in the lead as I chugged up towards Katahdin Stream Falls. And I was so anxious and full of anticipation (and full of extra snacks) that I POWERED up that first easy mile and a half. It was wonderful. Smooth, with stone steps and a gentle incline. It was nice to have a bit of a warm up to burn off a little nervous energy before the real climb began.Over the footbridge near the falls I went, and gradually the trail became more difficult. It flooded with water, and I hopped from rock to rock in an attempt to keep my feet dry. I saved my newest, softest, last clean pair of socks for Summit Day, and I did NOT want wet feet on Baxter Peak. One week of wet feet had been more than enough.There were multiple places where I looked up at the boulders in front of me and thought, "HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO GET UP THERE?! IT'S IMPOSSIBLE."But I always figured it out, letting my poles dangle from my wrists, scrabbling to grasp onto tiny irregularities in the rock, pulling myself up on poor abused tree limbs and roots.And then it was up and into the rocks, into hand-over-hand climbs. I used my knees a lot. My legs are TOO SHORT. AGH.It was nice to have my poles along to brace myself. Several hops required momentum to keep me from falling, and I just hoped that my shoes would cling to the rock well enough.Three areas, close together, had rebar helpers to allow hikers to climb steep sections of ledge. I pulled myself up one bar and hoisted my knee over a tiny bit of bar poking out below it, because my foot couldn't reach. A few hours later, on my way down, a man was really struggling with this part. The steel helps, but that doesn't mean it still isn't extremely difficult. It doesn't matter if you are strong, it's just awkward and there's no good way.The last steel helper is basically sticking out of a wall. A handhold/foothold, you have to use it to make it up over the edge. THIS ONE TOOK ME LIKE TEN MINUTES. I would grab it with my hand, put my foot on a nearby rock, pull myself up, then try to put my foot where my hand was. But I needed another point of contact to keep from falling. I couldn't move my hand enough to fit my foot next to it on the bar at the same time.It took quite a few tries before I managed to scrabble up that wall. I threw my poles up ahead of me and sidled my feet along and practically laid myself out, inching along on the rock.And there was still SO MUCH MORE CLIMBING.A while before entering the Tablelands, a relatively flat plateau before the last ascent, I took my phone out of airplane mode and left my mom a voicemail. "I'm on Katahdin!" I cried into the wind before hanging up, zipping my phone back into its plastic bag, and tucking it back inside Bertha.I looked behind me and saw Silent Force Iso, and the Aussie Legs below, colorful blobs on the mountainside. "Hello!" I yelled down at them, waving enthusiastically. "Red Panda!" The cry was returned, and I climbed on with my trail family at my back.Thoreau Spring was gushing as I hiked past, filling the trail with water once again. Ropes marked the trail, keeping hikers on course so as not to damage the fragile vegetation.At this point, I got a little frustrated.I was so close to the top, and Silent Force was gaining on me. My short legs were TOO SLOW. AGH.Wet socks had shot down my mood. I had been successful at keeping them dry for such a long time, but I couldn't make it past that puddle-trail without them getting damp. At this point, my shoes are totally ineffective at keeping water out. Even a quarter inch of water above the soles, and it leaks in, and my soft, comfortable, wonderful socks turn into sponges and my feet become those of a dead sailor again. YUCK.So I was grumpy as Silent Force and two young day hikers came up behind me. I was disappointed. I had really, really hoped that leaving early would allow me to reach the summit just a few minutes sooner than everyone else. I thought that maybe, just MAYBE, I might have a minute or two of solitude at that sign. I wanted to have my moment in peace. Although I have been hiking alone since the trail family just kind of came together, I haven't had much alone time. No time alone to just sit and think. And I am always on the lookout for someone hiking up behind me. The trail family leapfrogs quite a bit.But I didn't get my moment. No solitude on the summit. Oh well. Not my mountain.I watched the two young guys reach the top. And then, after them, Silent Force, who stood atop the sign in victory.I congratulated him as I approached, grinning as he celebrated finishing that last bit of trail.And then it was my turn. Finally, I clambered over the rocks and pressed my fingers down upon the wooden sign. The journey, which I don't think will ever REALLY be complete, had been successful in this: I had officially earned the title of thru-hiker. I had touched the first blaze on the top of Springer Mountain in Georgia 150 days ago, and today, I touched that sign, which has been kissed and caressed and photographed and climbed on by countless hikers, countless human beings who have followed white painted blazes to that old, wizened, planed and carved bit of tree. People who have come to the sacred summit make contact with that sign and feel the satisfaction and accomplishment of climbing the Greatest Mountain. Today, I was one of them.And how did I feel as I touched that sign? Honestly, I don't even know. A little relieved. A little sad. It wasn't as profound of a moment as I thought it would be. It was too surreal. The reality of it didn't hit me. If I had been alone, it would have been different. Different thoughts and emotions would have flowed through me, flowed through that mountain, through that sign, through my fingertips and into my heart. But instead of focusing on my own accomplishment, I was focused on that of my friends.Shortly after my arrival, Iso made his way to the sign. Another friend earned the thru-hiker name. Then, the Aussie Legs appeared in the distance. They had stopped for a break, but were gaining ground again. We watched them approach.And then it was their moment.And then, we celebrated. It took 3 hours to reach the summit. We spent an hour hanging around, taking pictures, snacking, and visiting. Iso and Silent Force gave one of the young day hikers candy bars in return for taking a group picture of the trail family gathered around the sign. Everyone took individual pictures. The Aussie Legs took pictures of their legs. I posed my Red Panda next to Firebear and Muddy Duckling's stuffed koala and kangaroo. Silent Force splayed himself out over the sign horizontally. Firebear sat on top and hugged it. Iso stood next to it, holding it in a spiritual embrace in a deep silence.We were incredibly lucky to have arrived early enough to enjoy a few minutes of peace before day hikers started to swarm the mountain. Together, we sat there, enjoying the company and the view, snacks and bits of conversation. For a while, our peaceful togetherness was untouched by strangers and outsiders. It was perfect. A perfect group on a perfect day.As we sat and enjoyed the summit, Apple Cider arrived, to cheers and calls from the group. Several thru-hikers summited today. On my way down the mountain, I passed Mufasa, Outlier (who I may have met before... she looked a little familar... I haven't heard many nice stories about her, so I wasn't eager to stop and chat), and at least two or three others as I made my descent.I was the first to leave the summit. I had my moment. The journey wasn't really over... even though I had reached the summit, I still had to climb back DOWN Katahdin.And I knew that mom and Dan were waiting, so I was eager to go. Silent Force and I headed out, and I let him get ahead of me so I could be slow and careful and take in that last descent.I thought that the descent would be faster than the climb up, but this was NOT the case. Partly because it was still ridiculously difficult trail, and partly because there were millions of day hikers crowding the trail, it still took me about three hours to get down. I spent some time talking to passersby (I got a few congratulations, which made me smile), and some time waiting for others to pass safely or move to the side of the trail so that I could pass. I kept hiking, down, and down, and down. It felt like I wasn't getting any closer to the bottom. I passed the horrible rebar section. I passed the river trail. I jumped and squatted and carefully stretched out one leg at a time to ease myself down. Eventually, I reached the footbridge near the falls. It took FOREVER. Not really. It just felt like it. I was so anxious to be done.Shortly later, as I was walking down the trail, I saw a spectacular sight.It was not a moose, unfortunately. NO LUCK ON THE MOOSE FRONT FOR MY THRU-HIKE. WHAT A FREAKING BUMMER.It was better than a moose, though. MY MOM AND PIZZA FAIRY! ON THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL! I had told them that if they arrived early and were bored, to head up to the falls, because it was an easy section of trail.And they did!REUNION! Hugs were shared! I didn't cry! I think at this point, I am so exhausted, that I can't even feel anything that I should be feeling at this point. All I can think about is eating and sleeping.But it felt so good to see them. I was so happy. Reaching the top of Katahdin is one thing, but getting a hug from your mom after you've hiked 2,189.2 miles is another. That was the best prize.We walked back to the campground together. Dan offered me an apple from his pocket. I accepted it gladly. "I should have asked you to bring me a salad." I said sadly, as I thought about my horrible snack lunch."We did." They answered. They had brought me fruit, too. And yogurt. BEST. FAMILY. EVER.As we walked, we passed Iso's mom, and I let her know that he shouldn't have been too far behind.We scoped out a pavilion for our "party", and found Thunder Chicken nearby. I told her that we would be having cake shortly, and that she should join us. Unfortunately, she disappeared a few minutes later. Silent Force said that she had gone into town. This made me sad. I had wanted to give her a piece of cake to celebrate her birthday tomorrow.We went to the ranger station and picked up my garbage bag full of gear, which I promptly dumped out all over the sunny grass next to the pavilion. Silent Force joked about stringing up a clothesline to hang up my sodden sleeping bag. Every single day, we hang up clotheslines to dry our sweaty, gross clothing. BUT NOT TODAY. I just threw my stuff in the grass. The sun was blazing enough that I didn't even need a line. I didn't need a line anyway, I was going into town. I was going HOME. My socks could rot, for all I cared.The Aussie Legs arrived, and we broke out the cake, soda, fruit, and chocolate milk. Other thru-hikers arriving after their completed hikes, as well as a few planning to stay at The Birches tonight, shared in the festivities.We sat and ate and sorted gear for hours. We talked and figured out evening plans. Silent Force's mother got a little lost on her way to the campground, and we were worried that he wouldn't have a ride into town, so we waited and waited and waited. Eventually, she arrived!Then it was time to go. Time to bid goodbye to Baxter, and goodbye to the trail (for now).Apple Cider rode into Millinocket with us, while the Aussie Legs crowded in with Iso and his mom.We checked into the AT Lodge, and visited the AT cafe for a bite to eat. My trail family had plans to gather for dinner, but I declined. I felt bad about this, but I don't regret it. I needed some time to relax, and I wanted to be with mom and Dan. I also really just wanted to be clean and in bed early, so that I could be well-rested for Alexa's wedding tomorrow.Mom helped me polish off a bag of pretzel M&Ms (eaten mostly by me...). My last victory bag before the post-trail diet kicks in. If you are thinking, "WHAT ABOUT THE PIZZA?!", don't worry. I am saving my amazing pizza victory dinner for tomorrow, because my favorite pizza place is located just down the street from where we are staying tomorrow night. Pizza WILL be had. In good time.I am thankful for an amazing end to the most amazing journey. I am thankful for my trail family at the summit, and for my mom and pizza fairy awaiting me at the base of The Mountain. I am thankful for every single person who has contributed to my hike, or participated in my hike (vicarious participants included). I am thankful to be healthy and happy. And I am thankful to have endless adventures to look forward to for the rest of my life.It's not just an ending, it's a beginning! The trail is a part of me now. I look forward to the next journey!There will be a thorough list of thankfulness soon. Soon, I will have time. Eventually, I will be able to stay awake. I hope.