Date: 2003-05-09
From: Double Springs Gap

To: Thomas Knob shelter
Miles today: 40.5
Weather: scattered clouds

Had a fairly easy hike into Damascus, crossing the VA state line was awesome. I could not stop smiling! I had been playing leapfrog with Lightwalker and 1/3 and was passed by a guy from Franklin, TN, called Boot. We all met up at the TN/VA line for a photo shoot. I got into Damascus around 3 p.m., called Natasha and Dad and went to "The Place", a 2-story unattended hostel behind a Methodist Church. I appreciated the church and the trust and responsibility placed in the hikers. I ate dinner alone and had dessert at the "Ole Barn". A guy named Pat was there and giving me a hard time, but he was funny. I had a piece of hot fudge cake w/ice cream (mint chocolate chip, of course), and cool whip and more hot fudge and cherries. Man! After that, I did laundry with Fox and we got a couple of beers. The guy running the place came up and said, "Hey, you can't drink in here! The cops will throw you in jail - go on back to the game room if you gonna drink!". So we walked the 15 feet back to the "game room", really just a more dimly lit section of the laundromat, and played air brooms to the country music the owner cranked up on the juke box. I spent an hour or so talking to a local about the town and his wife and whatever. I got back to "The Place" at about 11 - 11:30.The next day I was up at 7, had breakfast and by 9 a.m. I was on a shuttle to 601 to slack pack to Damascus - 18 miles. I agonized over doing it but 1) I wanted to see what it was like, 2) I needed to get to Bland to see Natasha and 3) I did not want to rush it and get injured. I had only a compass, an emergency blanket, 32 oz of water, my rain gear and a bandana. It was too weird! No continuity. I was literally taken out to a cow pasture, the trail was pointed out to me and then I was alone. In the next town I had the best glass of lemonade in my life. I saw Sniper walking by on the roadside (where I had done an 18 mile day and he had done 23) and I hailed him in. He told me he wanted to catch me and had actually spent some time running. The slack pack was an unusual sensation. My body kept moving as if there was a 45 lb. pack on it. I overcompensated for imbalance and dragged up hills unless I made a conscious effort not to. My feet were blistered and knees were killing me. I thought it would be easier. I have not make up my mind about he ethics of the slack pack. I am convinced that it was unwise for me to set a goal to get back into town before 5 to do last minute business. That night I tried to sleep - not very successful. Everyone was up partying. 3 nights without sleep and I was finally worn out. The next day I mailed letters, got food and packed. I missed the shuttle, but fortunately some guys were going out to do trail magic so I hitched with them - Fubar and Slip, Mowhawk and Alabamian. Sasquatch was the leader of their group, an ordained minister who was going to marry Fubar and Slip. Also Nasty and Carrot Slayer. We had a good time listening to The Eagles and Bob Marley before I finally set out at about 1:30. A hard hike, as usual. At the summit of White Top I had an awakening...no one in front, no one behind. I just woke up and realized I was alone in the mountains. Just an ant on a cloudy day on a ridge looking at all the other ridges completely alone. It is so easy to get caught up in schedules and food and resupply and forget your soul. I stopped and got some water trail magic from a couple from PA, met a few day hikers, then finally crossed Mt. Rogers (named for the guy who surveyed VA, then founded M.I.T.). Saw a deer. Made it to the Mt. Rogers shelter with Snort, Apple Chips, Slug and Mumbo and Trogs(?), and a section hiker/former thru-hiker and her dog Katadyn. I tried to talk them into doing the .5 mile Rogers summit trail but they heard therr was no view and declined to see the highest point in VA (5729').