Date: 2005-04-03
From: Flint Mountain Shelter

To: Sam's Gap
Miles today: 11.4

Flint Mountain Shelter to Sam's GapWe woke up to crystal clear skies, crisp cold air and at least a foot of snow on the ground.  We'd agreed last night that if the weather was crummy again today, we'd go into Erwin from Sam's Gap 11.4 miles down the trail rather than the planned 30+ miles down at the Nolichucky.  Having done the two abbreviated days, we were getting low on food, so we planned at least to hitch in to one of the little restaurants at Sams, then move on.  At first the snow wasn't too bad, and we thought that the 15 miles planned for the day was achievable.  There were many blowdowns and rhododendron heavy with snow making going tough.  As we climbed out of Devil's Fork Gap toward Frozen Knob (apropoe?!) the snow got deeper and deeper.  Despite the three who went out ahead broke the trail some, the snow got deeper and the going got harder.  Eventually we were postholing in knee deep snow.  We were intently following the foot steps, trying to keep balance when we finally reached the top of Frozen Knob.  Gravity started getting further and further out ahead of me, and I began to get worried as I was unable to keep up.  I finally caught up to him when he stopped to wait for me, and he told me he hadn't seen a white blaze in a while and the foot steps ahead petered out completely.  He'd also noticed foot steps coming back toward us.  Gravity backtracked to try to find where we'd gone wrong.  There was a place right after coming over the ridge where the trail turned sharply left and down.  We'd gone straight along the ridge line.  Having gone about 45 minutes out of our way in knee deep snow, we were both upset and discouraged.  Once back on trail we were sure Hogback Ridge Shelter was very close.  We slogged down the ridge, then up the ridge, then down and around and up and over some more ridges.  With the cold and all the snow there wasn't much opportunity for breaks, and I hadn't eaten much.  Running on low to empty, combined with the deep snow, I really didn't know how much farther I could go.  Around every corner and over each crest, we were sure the shelter would be there, only to see more snow.  Finally, when each step felt like moving a mountain with my pinkie, Gravity saw the sign and blue blaze indicating the shelter.  I don't think it is possible to adequately describe the magnitude of my sigh of relief.  The shelter was 8.8 miles from last night's camp, ~7 miles short of what we'd planned for the day.  Somewhere on Frozen Knob, we'd realized that there was no way we were going to make the 15.  We had no idea however that the 8.8 would be so defeating.  I was less discouraged when we reached the shelter and found everyone else had the same experience.  We all decided to call it a day and stay at the shelter.As we were making preparations for the evening, a trail maintainer came lumbering down the trail with chainsaw and rucksac in tow.  He'd brought us all apples and trail mix, just what I needed with my bent spirit and empty fuel tank.  After some talking we found out his name; Big Smokey, and that he was a maintainer for the section we were on.  He'd come up to clear blow downs and bring trail magic.  Gravity casually asked if he was heading towards Erwin.  He said "I think we could work something out".  Refueled and enspirited, we hiked the 2.4 miles to Sam's Gap.  Big Smokey gave us front door service right to Miss Janet's hostel, and we were thrilled for a hot shower and dry night on a soft bed.It never ceases to amaze me how the trail always seems to provide what you need.  I once again am humbled before this mystery and ever grateful.Danger