Date: 2004-04-21
From: Cherry Gap Shelter

To: Nolichucky River (Super 8 Motel)
Miles today: 16.3

Unaka/Beauty Spot10PM - Super 8 MotelToday started like the last two, with a long uphill climb, this time up Unaka Mtn. I actually enjoyed Unaka more than its more famous mountains the last two days, Hump and Roan.One reason I liked it was that I really felt at home because of (maybe despite) the steep uphill climbs. They reminded me of some trails in the White Mountains, where I did most of my practice hikes.But the high point was when I reached the top. I was not expecting much, since no one talks about Unaka, but as I approached the summit I was taken aback by the loose grove of pine trees on the top. From about 50 yds off it appeared as if they blocked all light from reaching the center of the grove. I had an almost enchanted feeling, as if I were about to enter Mirkwood. I tried to capture it on film (actually on flash card) but probably came too close to the grove to get the full effect. By the time I actually got into the grove, there was plenty of light, subdued somewhat, but it still had that near magical feeling.Later on, after wandering along without paying much attention to where I was, I made a mistake interpreting the data book. I was at a forest road, which was mentioned in the data book, and the next point in the data book is Deep Gap, where there is no mention of the road. But in fact the forest road runs by both points, and I was at Deep Gap, .6 mi farther along than I thought. Deep Gap is 600' lower than where I thought I was, so I walked along for the next mile expecting to go down around every turn, but the Trail kept going UP. Finally, as I was coming to the top of a grassy slope, I became aware of mountains rising up on both sides. As I passed over the top, miles and miles of tall mountains appeared before me, and for the second time in the space of less than two hours, I was completely charmed.After taking a bunch of pictures, I noticed a couple of hikers breaking camp. As I walked up to them I called 'What a charming place! Do you know what it's called?'. Pegasus answered 'Yes. It's the Beauty Spot.'Of course! I had noticed a mention of the Beauty Spot while checking the data book at Deep Gap, but paid no attention. I usually don't credit places with names like that, since they usually don't come up to expectations. So I had completely forgotten about it. Yet here, without my having any expectations, was a spot which lived up to its name.Later, I came to an opening in the trees lining the Trail, and could see lots of trees in bloom on the side of a hill that the Trail passed along a ways ahead. They reminded me of the Yamazakura, or mountain cherry blossoms that appeared on the mountainsides in the small rural town in Japan where I once taught. They were scattered fairly densely across the whole slope they were on.As I was photographing them, along came Silver, and we engaged in a debate about whether they were dogwood, cherry blossoms, or maybe something else, like a flowering pear. (When I got to that slope, I was able to look closely at a couple of trees. The flowers were fairly complex, with many small petals per blossom, and often several blossoms together on the same stem. So I don't think they were dogwood, which I saw in profusion after getting to Erwin. But I don't know enough about tree blossoms to distinguish cherry from pear. Anyone out there who can identify them from my description?)As I was walking along pondering the characteristics of dogwood and cherry blossoms, I neaely stepped on a black snake. I didn't see him until I was a step and a half away, and was only able to reverse myself as I was about to take the step that would have landed right on him. He reared his head and crooked his neck, but didn't seem to be either as agile or aggressive as I would expect. I don't think that he even turned to face me, and was clearly more interested in getting away than anything else. He was about 6' long and about 2" at his thickest, but I never felt threatened. By the time I got my camera out he was nearly off the trail, so my picture of him is probably not very exciting.People I met on the Trail today:Tom & Miss Daisy Js; Pegasus (Happy Birthday!); Francois; Fire Marshall; Clyde (F) & Bonnie (M); Beat Box; Blaze & daughter Gimpy; Tinker; Danny; Beast; Mississippi Mule; Wicomico Walker; Gaia; Mad Scientist; Silver; Bear Tracks; Mockingbird & father Eric; Crispy Critters; 3 Sectioning ladies; Aussie Bill (colleague of Aussie John I met Saturday); Bear Behind (lots of teddy bears attached to his pack).Plus many hikers at Miss Janet's, but I didn't really talk to any of them.Milestone: Today I passed the one quarter point on the Trail, or to put it another way, I am more than halfway to the midpoint of my hike (now THAT statement is redolent with references to expectations :-).See you on down the Trail