Date: 2014-06-18
From: Spy Rock

To: Day 67-Spy Rock to Reed's Gap/Devil's Backbone Pub
Miles today: 19.4

Incredibly windy night! Must have been gusting over 50mph. The couple who tented on the rocks said they were nearly blown off. They had to unhook their tent from the poles to keep them from snapping and laid with the netting flapping over them all night. They couldn't get down in the dark because the scramble was too dangerous. I'm glad they're ok.The heat was bad today and water was scarce. A local told me it was the hottest it's been in two years. The perfect day to hike nearly twenty miles over some of the toughest terrain we've faced. We want to get to Waynesboro Thursday to meet Andi and Yvanna and that means two long days to do it. We miscalculated our resupply and needed to get to Crabtree Campsite which has a little store. We got to the parking area five miles from the camp and Doug from New Jersey, who had met some thru hiking friends earlier, offered to take the kids to the store and back; thanks Doug! A thru hiker from New York City named Raven told me there was a river just across the road where you could wash up, so I headed there. Nice river, pretty suspension footbridge (love those), and I took a quick bath. When the kids got back they did the same and we ate lunch. A family out for a day hike offered to take our trash, thanks!When we crossed the bridge Natalie realized we were at the same spot she and her dad had camped at in the past, and that she had hiked a part of this trail with him.The hardest part of the day began. Up and over a mountain called the Priest, so named because you need a priest's blessing to get over it. Part way up there was a shelter where we stopped for water. As I sat filtering into my drinking bottle, a young bearded man looked at me and said, "Wow, I was just thinking about you guys; how have you been?" It took me a few seconds to realize that I was looking at Eric (now, Yogi) the kid from Kansas who shared the hostel with us on our first day. He had started out doing sixteen mile days, but broke down with injuries and had to slow down. He's hiking now with Scout, a young lady he met in Damascus and is taking his time and enjoying the hike. After the Priest there was a long downhill before tackling the Three Ridges. Because of the heat, the humidity, the height, and the time of day, I'd say this was one of the toughest climbs we've made. We all struggled with the heat. Even Mike was worn thin. He headed for the summit hoping there'd be a breeze while Natalie and I inched our way up the last face, stopping often to splash a little water on our faces and bodies.Once we made the climb it was a long stoney haul to Maupin Shelter and some much-needed water. I took off at a jog and Mike and Natalie followed. I wanted to get to Reeds Gap where we could hitch to The Devil's Backbone Pub for food, beer and a campsite. Natalie needed a bit of a rest at the shelter while Mike got water so I took off for the gap. The last two miles were easy and I got a ride from Sam, a local farmer, as soon as I got there. Thanks Sam.The pub has a huge field where they let you camp and it has a shower and privy for hikers. The restaurant itself is really nice, though a bit pricy by hiker standards. The kids called and said they weren't having much luck hitching. I asked the bartender if anyone at the bar might be willing to pick them up. She said I should ask Alex, a man sitting at the end of the bar. I went over to ask. It turns out Alex is from Worcester and he said he'd be glad to get them. I offered to pay for his drinks, but he said no thanks, he was happy to do it.The kids got in, we had good food, good drinks, and good laughs with Gadget, Shea, and Atlas (the female version). Odysseus, Hat Trick, and Sweet as Peaches (the male version) came in and we all had a great time talking about literature. Both Odysseus and the bartender, Kristen, are attending Oxford University this year. Kristen for seven weeks starting the end of June, studying English Literature and history, and Odysseus studying anthropology in October. Whoda thunk it.Off to bed; Waynesboro tomorrow.