Date: 2006-07-03
From: Eliza Brook Shelter

To: Franconia Notch, NH
Miles today: 8.8
Weather: clear sky

Day 119 - I was up and packed and on the Trail by 6:30 this morning, but the ruggedness of the Trail was such that it took me more than 6 hours to go 8.8 miles. I walked by myself at first...Restless, Two Shoes, and Messenger were up and gone early. The first couple of miles were near straight up, with mostly rock climbing, not walking. Along the way I passed a beautiful small lake with a rocky ridge as backdrop. Finally got to the top of South Kinsman Mountain, where the views were breathtaking, thanks largely to clear, dry, sunny weather. If I known a year ago how physically, mentally, and emotionally demanding this thru-hike would be, I probably would not have started. But now I'm less than 375 miles from finishing, and I don't want to go home and explain why I quit so close to the end. On the way down from Kinsman to Franconia Notch ( in the south we say "gap"...in New England they say "notch") I met a section hiker named Deja Vu, who thru hiked in 2004. She had left some Trail Magic at the Hikers Welcome Hostel on Saturday morning, but it was gone by the time arrived in late afternoon. We walked about a mile together, sharing thru-hiker stories about Trail Magic and other topics till we got to the AMC's Lonesome Lake Hut, which is really a walk-in, very primitive bunkhouse for folks who want to "rough it" with a bunk bed and 2 meals provided. Thru-hikers and the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) sometimes clash about use of these facilities, the cost, and the right of the AMC to turn away hikers. I walked in to the main building to look around; it was a kitchen/dining hall/gift shop combo. The kitchen folks had put out leftover, cold pancakes from breakfast. I ate two. I used the privy, looked around, took a few pictures, and moved on. Deja Vu stayed for other stuff. About 1:00PM I got to the bottom and took a paved bike trail to a Visitors Center (Flume Gorge), where I called Jeff Anderson and ate a big lunch from the grill. Jeff, Beth, and Olivia Anderson are vacationing here this week and had contacted Jane back in Johnson City about possibly meeting up with me here. They were terrific hosts! Jeff spent most of the afternoon shuttling me around North Woodstock and Lincoln among the post office and outfitter stores. By the way, Mary Dew, the cookies arrived and were/are delicious. Thanks so much. My bounce box, maildrop, and other letters also arrived. The gear problems are a little closer to being resolved. I bought new boots. The local outfitter, Lahout's, thinks that the grommet problems are a manufacturer's defect and should be covered in full by Garmont. They are going to ship the boots to Garmont with an explanation and request for refund. Unfortunately, Lahout's policy on replacing Leki poles is not so customer friendly as the outfitters in Waynesboro, VA, and Kent, CT. Lahout's says I have to deal directly with Leki for repairs or replacements, which is tough for a thru-hiker who doesn't want to sit around a small tourist town for a week. I called Leki from Jeff's condo, but they are closed Monday and Tuesday for the 4th of July. So much for customer service! Ran into Deja Vu at the outfitters. She was shuttling another thru-hiker (Tank) here from the hostel...small world. I had last met Tank as I walked into Port Clinton and he was walking out. Stayed up real late (11:00PM) trying to sort out gear and food and get my bounce box packed for the next mailing. I'm exhausted, but I get to sleep in a real bed with a clean body...heaven on earth!