Date: 2013-04-12
From: Gatlinburg - Clingman Dome's parking lot

To: Icewater Spring Shelter
Miles today: 11.5
Weather: moderate rain

Good evening dear readers,I love my tent. I love it even more in the Smokies since we've had to stay in the shelters. I especially love the backcountry ranger who is letting all of us thrus tent tonight! Rather the opposite attitude than what I expected, but very well received by all and sundry, including the section hikers with reservations who can now spread out a bit. A group of us arrived before 5 pm, not able to go another 7+ miles to the next shelter. While I love the hiking and scenery in the Smokies, the restriction on camping stinks, though I understand the park wanting to concentrate the impact use. However, as a thru hiker I want to be hiking until at least 6pm, preferably later with the days becoming longer and longer. Ahhh, the conflicting priorities! Today's hike was simply wonderful. No ice at all going down Clingmans, so much for all of my worrying yesterday. With all the rain overnight the trail was a literal creek at times, I just had to laugh when I saw the water simply pouring down the trail - so long nice dry shoes! It was nice and misty when the shuttle dropped me off, which conjured so many memories of past trips to the Smokies. I'm so fortunate - I had both the stellar views the other day, and now a memory to jive with the past, only this time as a thru hiker. By far the hardest part of the day was that half mile climb up the paved trail, and it doesn't even count for daily mileage, well, such is life. Nice easy hiking down to Indian Gap for lunch where a small group of us was "entertained" by a somewhat quack-y healer. He really needed to read his audience better, none of us were ill, otherwise we probably wouldn't be on the trail. Sights today:   The many overturned pine trees were simply awe inspiring - 20 feet high root systems encasing whole boulders. Newfound Gap with all the tourists was a far cry from the morning shuttle drop off in the mist and fog with wild turkeys squawking nearby. I felt like a celebrity or in a zoo - lots of people wanted to meet me and the other hikers there. Another zoo-like expedite we're the wild hog containment areas - were we supposed to be kept in or out?? Flushing toilets at Newfound was a treat even though I had just left town that morning. I said out loud "what luxury!" and got an incredulous look from another lady tourist - she could tell I wasn't being sarcastic. A quick 3 miles to Icewater, and either I'm finally getting my trail legs, the terrain is easier, or both! In camp, I was so happy to set up my tent after a week of shelters and sharing a hotel room. Don't get me wrong, I genuinely lived those experiences, but alone time is also a good thing! Met 2 other solo ladies tonight - Whirled Peas and Etch-a-sketch, amongst other hikers, including a guy from Ohio!! We had a great time gathered around eating dinner, sharing stories. Nice to meet some of the folks who were behind me! So much for my worries about being alone, not gonna happen, particularly in the Smokies in thru hiker season. By the way, I really despise blue jolly ranchers, just nasty. So funny how taste aversions happen so quickly out here. RIP fleece pants - Buttercup put the in the hiker box since for some reason I couldn't make myself do it. I didn't need them any longer, and they were far too large on me now. I'm determined never to need that size again!