Date: 2004-03-20
From: Neel's Gap

To: Bagg's Creek Gap
Miles today: 4.2

Been too busy to write! Hard to believe, I know. But I'm hiking so slow (about a mile an hour) that to make my mikes, I don't get into camp till 5:30 or so. Then set up camp, dinner, and in bed by 7. So today I took a super short day (4.2 miles) so I could sit and enjoy my afternoon. But let me back up to 3/18 and 3/19 first.3/18 I went from Gooch Gap to Jerrard's Gap (8.9 miles), plus I had to walk out of Suches, so I did a little over 11 miles that day. Longest walk so far. I've all ready learned that trail miles and actual miles hardly ever match, since it's not uncommon to walk a half mile or more to hit a water source or a shelter, and I'd say that you actually go about a mile more each day than your recorded miles.I did my first hitch ever at Woody Gap (took about 4 seconds to find a ride) to get to my mail drop in Suches. Couldn't get a hitch out, so it was over 2 miles uphill the whole way and in the rain to boot! But I still enjoyed myself... go figure.Only 3 people tenting at Jerrard's Gap, so it was a quiet, early njight. Missed my friends, though Intents was there with me.3/19 was a short day, from Jarrard's Gap to Neel's Gap, 5.4 miles. The big hilight of the hike itself was Blood Mt., the highest point on the AT in GA at 4461 feet. The climb up was beautiful, too, and I don't mind "Big Ups" so much anymore. I take it all as it comes, though sometimes I feel like this existance is a grit-your-teeth-and-slog test of wills between me and the endless PUDs (Pointless Ups and Downs) and switchbacks GA has to throw at me. Luckily, I'm winning so far And I am enamored with the challenge.Man, it's buggy out! Also hot. And sunny. Before I knew what hit me, my nose was so sunburnt it was peeling.So, back to yesterday. Neel's Gap has an outfitter right on the trail. In fact, the trail passes through the building! There's a high wrap-around stone porch and picnic area and a hostel too, where hikers hang out for hours. The skill and service at the outfitter defy all description! But the best part was, a huge group of my friends (who I thought I'd lost when I lost half a day in Suches) were hanging around there! They were staying at the Hiker Hostel, run by Profile and Almanac (a past thru-hiker husband and wife team), so Intents and I went along.The Hiker Hostel was amazing! Rustic 2 story home with covered porches, semi-private rooms (each with their own toilet, shower and bathtub!), free breakfast, sattelite TV (which I didn't watch at all), DSL, a fridge full of juice and milk, a nice common room, and fantastic and knowledgeable owners. And laundry, and a shuttle to and from Neel's Gap (17 mile trip to Delonegah, where the hostel is), and a shuttle into town for dinner. The wonderful company that night was Pete and Joe (Dad-O), Jane, Luis, Brandon, Joanne, INtents and a young guy starting today named John. We had Italian (salad has NEVER tasted so good) and all generally stayed up waaaaay past our bedtimes - like till 11:30! Which is rough when you've gotta be up at 6:15 the next morning to shuttle back out - I need a billion hours of sleep each night.So, back to today. My boots have been giving me some hot spots (which, untreated, can become blisters.) So I wanted to get fitted for insoles in Neel's Gap this morning. Tried yesterday but my feet hurt too much to tell what was and wasn't comfy. An hour in the tub and a night's sleep helped a little, so I tried this morning. Ended up with something that seems to work, because I had no hot spots today. Man those guys know their stuff! Also bought a new therma-rest - went from 2lbs 2oz to 1lb 4oz! And, Ranger bought my old pad! Got a 1.7 ounce fleece pillow which I love, and a lightweight short sleeve capillene shirt - god it was hot today! I needed the cooler clothes. Also got sunscreen and a lighter, since my waterproof matches also appear to be fireproof.Lastly, the amazing staff at Mountain Crossing re-fitted my pack for me. I had it riding all wrong, and my stay wasn't bent right. The owner of the outfitter spent well over an hour with me today, between the shoes and the pack, and I don't think he even cared if I spent any money! Shop there! www.mountaincrossings.com.So, now I'm lying in my tent in Baggs Creek Gap, all by my lonesome. Didn't get out of Nee's Gap till 11:30, despite waking up at the crack of dawn, so I didn't make it to camp till around 3:30. Ketp meeting people along the way too interesting not to talk to. One guy, named Casey, has a lot in common with me - from curly hair to singing to being a vegetarian! Hope to see a lot more of him, but he hikes much faster than me. We talked for about half an hour around a mosquito infested stream, where I also got some pics of a pair of snakes.Any way, Jane's knees have been hurting her, so she was gonna take an easy day, too. We agreed to meet here (the next water source is 5 more miles down the trail) but when I got here, she wasn't here. She had a 2 or 3 hour head start on me, so I assume she got sick of waiting. HOpe she's okay, but I'm sure I'll find out soon enough.6:20pm now and starting to get very cold. Will be below freezing tonight. Think I'll go to bed now, and try to make Blue Mt Shelter tomorrow. It's a 13.6 mile day, but I took it easy today and yesterday and if I go to bed now I should get an earlier-than-usual start.