Date: 2004-08-15
From: Antler's Campsite

To: Whitehouse Landing
Miles today: 5.8

We got our first look at Katahdin today! We would've seen it days ago from White Cap Mountain, had it not been a total white-out up there. It was amazing to see. Katahdin seemed so close; and indeed it is closer as the crow flies than the path we will be taking to its base. The trail winds around the many lakes in the area and will lead us around the mountain to its least treacherous - although still daunting - side. After having climbed so many mountains, it's hard to believe that that one right in front of us is the last. That's it. One last big up, and then it's all over.After a nice short flat hike today we came to what is, roughly, the mid-point of the Hundred Mile Wilderness. Here we took a 1-mile detour through the woods to Pemadumcook Lake where we found a short pier and an air horn. A sign posted next to the airhorn explained that if you blew it, the boat from Whitehouse Landing would come pick you up within 15 minutes. Now, we knew all this before we arrived at the airhorn. We also knew that you had to be picked up before 1 to make it to Whitehouse Landing in time for lunch. At 12:30 Arwen and I had fallen behind Leki and Camel. Leki, motivated by the endless tales we'd heard of WL's famous one-pound burgers, shifted into high gear. Arwen and I were still dawdling in the woods, lingering at a wild raspberry bush - something not to be passed up if at all possible - when we heard Leki sound the airhorn. Not wanting to be left behind, we ran to catch up.Sure enough, before too long, up zips a little speedboat with the proprietor of WL at the helm and his 8 year old son at his side. On the trip across the lake Camel confirmed, "We're in time for burgers, right?" It was 1 o'clock on the dot. "You bet," came the reply. Next thing we knew we were docking at paradise itself. Whitehouse Landing is a collection of handsome wood-frame cabins spread out over seven acres of lake frontage property, with a view of Katahdin from the middle of the lake. There were flowers blooming everywhere - the biggest brown-eyed susans I've ever seen, and lillies and geraniums, pansies... And off a ways a big patch of wild Maine blueberries labeled "Berry Patch." Before day's end we'd be helping ourselves to a handful of those. Seeing this place in all its summer glory, it's incredible to know that in winter the entire lake freezes four feet thick and the only way in or out is by snowmobile.The sun was shining again and the whole day was stretched out in front of us. First things first: they cooked us up some of their famous burgers and we sat around in the lodge's lovely dining room savoring every bite. Then we got settled into the bunkhouse and took showers at the bath house. Time seemed to slow down as we sat talking on porches overlooking the lake and unhurriedly bustled about doing our chores. They have an old fashioned washing roller here for doing laundry. After getting a quick lesson in how to work it, I tried my hand at it. I was amazed at its effiency on our filthy clothes. We hung up our wet laundry on their clothesline in the sun and laid in the hammock, swinging gently, enjoying the breeze and the reflection of the afternoon sun on the lake.As we sat down for dinner, a few bedraggled looking hikers straggled in through the door. It was Mountain Man, Captain Hook, NY Mule and Lucky Dog. We hadn't seen Mountain Man since Chairback Gap Lean-to before the hurricane hit. We knew he and Jerry had been stranded on the other side of the east branch of the Pleasant River when it rose so high. Turns out he and Jerry managed to get a ride into town from a trail angel, where they got a hotel room along with Captain Hook. The next morning Jerry decided he'd had quite enough fun for one week and said his goodbyes. Mountain Man and Captain Hook managed to make their way across what was no doubt still a very dangerous river crossing. They made good time and we were glad they'd caught up with us. Lucky Dog we hadn't seen since Pennsylvania, and hadn't expected to see him again, so that was a great surprise as well.Tonight we had a lively group for a game of pictionary, which stretched on late into the evening. It was good to be together again, and in such a wonderful place.