Date: 2004-09-23
From: Abol Bridge Campground

To: The Birches Campsite
Miles today: 10.9
Weather: clear sky

Tonight is the last night before the big climb up Katahdin, a 4200 foot tall rocky monster towering over the dark green forest of wild Maine. Before that, 10 relatively easy miles (it takes 7 1/2 miles just to gain 500 feet elevation) through gorgeously wild Baxter State Park. This is one state park that rivals many national parks for natural beauty. Established decades ago by the late Governor Percival Baxter, he donated it to the state of Maine with the stipulation that it remain forever wild: no pets, no paved roads, no electrical or sewer hook-ups, no noise, no hunting, and limited camping. The result is a jewel of a park that is about the resources first, usage second.A couple of precarious crossings over swiftly-moving Katahdin Stream and then Foss & Knowlton Brook started the day with an adventurous note. Just a plank up high with no handholds. Not particularly scary, but not a piece of cake, either. I continued on in solitude, as I did for the entire day's hike. Sometimes a solo hike is lonely, but not this one. Not in a place with so much spirit as Baxter. A mile after the F & B came the Big Niagara Falls. Really just a little falls, having nothing on the original Niagara, but pretty nonetheless, and I had it all to myself to explore.Shortly after the Falls I stopped at Daicey Campground, the original basecamp for summiting Katahdin. A nice little out of the way place for New England car-campers, but on the main thorough-fare if you are an AT hiker. In the spirit of the non-modern essence of the park, there were few accomodations (no complaining here), but there was a small nature library, and a gorgeous view of The Big K towering over Daicey Pond. A canoe was parked at the dock as a paddler lashed it in. Quite an idyllic scene (see 9/21 picture).More beauty as I hiked on. Every now and then, I would catch glimpses of faraway mountains between the trees. I searched excitedly for moose at all the watering holes, but never saw one. Finally, the trail ended at a gravel road (the main road of the park). I turned right and walked for a few minutes to Katahdin Stream Campground and the park office.The way you finish the AT is this: arrive at The Birches Campsite, just down the road from KS Campground. Spend the night there, and in the morning, most choose the options of leaving the majority of their gear at the office, since the day's hike is an out-and-back dayhike. Taking only what food and water and few other essentials are needed, climb to the peak, revel in your accomplishment, and come down the way you came up, collect your things, and head out of the park (most have a ride arranged to take them to Millinocket). Some packs were at the office, but no hikers or even park employees were around.Finding my first destination deserted (except for car-campers), I moved on to the Birches just down the road. Treefrog and some of the others from last night were there and already set up. I set my tent up near the entrance and prepared to relax. After a short while, Mom and Dad showed up in their new bright red Durango. They walked into the campsite and hung out for a spell. Treefrog played traditional Irish songs on his flute, including "Happy Birthday" as we sung to Dad on his 57th birthday. After awhile, the air became chilly, and I bundled up, but my wimpy parents went back to their comfy motel in Millinocket.(note: This was to be my Dad's last birthday before he passed away from cancer-related complications. I'm glad he got to have a really great one, and that I was able to have it with him.)