Date: 2009-04-20
From: Fontana Hilton (Fontana Shelter)

To: Upper Flats Campground (Eagle Creek Trail)
Miles today: 10.5

River CrossingsThis morning we woke up and left the shelter early to take Jess and Graveyard up on their suggestion for the Lost Cove/Eagle Creek blue blaze trail. There were a couple of concerns raised about not taking the actual Appalachian Trail, but none of us are purists, even some of us who may have started off that way. So, after talking about the prospect of a cool campsite to have lunch followed by a trail of river crossings, we laid those concerns to rest and set off on our second blue blaze. We had absolutely no regrets.Liz, Jen, Calamity, N¢Da¢Wind and I headed down the trail, which at one time must have been a road around Fontana Lake. It was beautiful, well graded and easy hiking on the trail, which followed along a few mountain streams that fed into the lake. Along the way we found a couple of rusted shells of cars that looked like 1930 style bootlegger cars ¢ or so we surmised. But the forest had long since reclaimed the road, with trees growing right out of the cars themselves, so it was hard to imagine how they had even gotten there.At one point along the way a squirrel bounded onto the trail and looked back at me. As I walked toward it, she scampered another 10-15 yards up the trail and waited. When I caught up, she scampered up the trail again and waited, looking back to make sure I was following. This continued for a quarter mile or so, and I almost felt like Einstein was back with me on the trail. Eventually she decided she had something better to do and scampered off back into the brush.Around noon, we finally reached a rushing creek and the trail that led to the Lost Cove campsite, which Jess and Graveyard had told us about. As we headed toward the site, we lamented that it was late in the day and they were likely long gone. But when we reached the site around 1:30pm, I could Graveyard in the distance stretching in front of the tent as if she had just awoken, which may have been the case. Graveyard ran to give us a hug and Jess emerged from the tent to come greet us, and promptly wished us a happy 4/20. It was the perfect place to pause and have lunch.The cove sat at the bottom of Eagle Creek, where it fed into Fontana Lake. Right by the camp were some refreshing rapids, a nice sand and rock beach, and a reflecting pond. We spent some time skipping stones (which was how Jen got her new trail name ¢Stone Skipper¢), wading into the rapids, and Graveyard even took a swim. In the campsite was a large fire ring made from the river stones. Surrounding it was an even larger ring of stones laid out to make a dozen or so recliners around the fire, complete with backs and armrests. We didn¢t want to leave and contemplated camping for the night, but Liz and I had to meet some friends at Clingman¢s Dome in a couple of days, so we all reluctantly decided to move on.So, shortly after 4:20pm, we got back on the trail with Jess and Graveyard heading up Eagle Creek. About a half mile up the trail we reached our first river crossing, which consisted of a split log across the creek with smaller logs coming up one side to make a very loose railing. It was shaky, so we took it one at a time. Another quarter mile up we came to our second crossing, which had no log or bridge and went straight through the creek. It¢s called Eagle Creek, but it was as fast, wide and deep as many of the rivers I¢ve seen. So we paused for everyone to change into camp shoes, roll up their short legs, and secure all their gear. Graveyard advised us all to undo our pack waist belts and cross straps so we could quickly slip our arms out of the straps and ditch our packs if someone fell and started getting pulled down river. We were also advised to try and go down feet first so as to have all appendages available for leverage. I never did quite figure out how we were supposed to perform that maneuver.One by one we summed up the nerve to make the plunge. The water was very cold and about thigh to waist high. The rapids were pretty strong. I tried my best to look through the water to the rock bed below for the best places to step, using my trekking poles to stay as balanced as possible while the rapids did their best to send me tumbling downstream. But eventually I made it to the other side and paused to make sure the rest made it across ¢ joining in the cheers as each one stepped up onto the opposite bank. When the last one emerged, we all had a group cheer then turned to head back up the trail to the next crossing.We hiked in our camp shoes the rest of the day because there were 8 more river crossings before the spot we picked out to camp. It rained on and off that afternoon, but the sun came out quickly each time to warm and dry us. All of the river crossings that day were difficult, but each one got a little easier as we headed upstream because the creek got narrower and the rapids a bit less powerful. We also got much more confident, which made it easier as well. I quickly got to the point where I no longer looked where I was stepping, instead going by feel alone ¢ both the feel of the rock bed and the feel of the current. A few in our party dropped their guard a bit and took a spill or two, but no one was seriously injured and no one¢s gear got too wet.We finally stopped about halfway up Eagle Creek trail and pitched camp. We found a great spot in between the banks of Eagle Creek and a fast moving tributary. Since the forecast called for no rain that night, we weren¢t worried about flooding. Graveyard and Jesse confidently hung all their clothes out to dry and we enjoyed the evening sitting around the fire, eating our dinners and reliving the exciting events of the day. Without exception, everyone agree d that we made the right choice to blue blaze the Eagle Creek trail and had the absolute best day on the trail yet.