Date: 2013-09-24
From: Stealth Camp after Scott Rd

To: Pleasant Pond Lean-to
Miles today: 14.0

I slept good and hard, but it was a short night. My alarm went off at 5:00, again at 5:11, and again at 5:15. I knew in my heart of hearts that I needed to get up, but it was so hard. I was so warm and toasty and comfy. But finally I roused. I settled for a cold bowl of granola while I packed up. Slowly the morning light filtered through the trees and through the rain fly. I stacked on layers and took down my tent. I was on the trail by 6:30.My feet and ankles were slow to wake up and loosen. So I walked slowly and compassionately along the trail. The trail was a little rooty, rocky and muddy, but it wasn't as bad as yesterday. At least initially. I made good time as I walked through the colorful confetti of fall leaves. I rock hopped over several streams and timidly crossed a single log bridge (its top was flattened slight) with two low log "guard-rails". They only reached knee-level, so I hunched over and used them as handrails. I kept thinking, don't slip, don't slip, don't slip. I got to the Pierce Pond Lean-to area in good time. I pit-stopped in the privy and considered walking to have a look at the pond. This was the pond that a 20-yr old hiker drowned last year. He'd hiked a big day and decided to go for a swim. He got cramps and went under. So sad. The wind had picked up, and it started to spit rain, so I decided to skip the visit. It didn't matter because the trail took me alongside the pond anyway. The trail crossed a "dam" which seemed like little more than a jerry-rigged pile of sharp rocks, drift wood and slick boards. The wind whipped and the rain sprayed against my face. The whole scene left me feeling a little less than confident. The last forecast I'd seen said that today was supposed to be beautiful, but it was pretty dank.The next few miles to the Kennabec River were an unpleasant surprise. The elevation profile looked pretty flat, and I'd expected to be able to cruise along. What I found was a sharp, rooty, rocky cluster of PUDS. Up and down, up and down. The trail reminded me of the first few miles of Massachusetts. A river followed right along a side the trail, and the trail seemed to towards swerve every perched river overlook. You could see where there would be a flat, smooth detour around the PUDS, but someone had placed branches and brush in front of the detours to encourage hikers up and over the PUDS. I cursed under my breath. Okay, I shouted my curses out-loud (pretty loudly) at the PUDS. I've cultivated a pretty serious potty-mouth since I've been out here. I'm going to have to work on that. I just wanted to get to the ferry before its 3-hr lunch break (the ferry runs from 9-11 a.m. and 2-4 p.m.). It started to rain harder, so I put on my rain jacket. Even with the climbs, I had a constant chill. Finally the path smoothed as it make a steep climb to the top of a hill for no apparent reason. And then the trail seemingly back down the same side. I saw a large body of water appear through the trees. I'd arrived at the Kennabec River with time to spare! I walked down to the water's edge. The ferry (i.e. canoe) was across the river. I hollered, and soon I saw some movement. Hillbilly Dave came paddling across the river to meet me. He handed me a release form and a lifejacket. He also asked about a guy I had passed yesterday on the trail. I said that I had remembered him- he'd called me a "slow hiker" when I told him when I'd started. Hillbilly Dave said that the guy had wanted to apologize. I just laughed and said not to worry about it. The truth is, it had kind of pissed me off, but today it seemed funny. The fact that the guy had sought out the ferry guy to extend an apology more than made up for any ill-feelings I might still foster. Hillbilly Dave paddled me safely across to the other side. He gave me pointers as to how to get around the area. Go to the Caratunk Post Office, call the Sterling Inn for a ride and resupply, have them take me to Northern Outdoors for lunch, and come back to the trail. And that's what I did. As I was walking to the post office the Sterling Inn van pulled up next to me and offered a ride. We went to the post office to pick up another hiker that turned out to be Poppins. A truck pulling a trailer stopped next to us. I didn't much mind, but Poppins exclaimed, "Holy Moose!" I turned to see what she was talking about, and I saw a huge moose (dead and gutted) hanging off all the edges of the trailer. It was enormous. Traffic in Caratunk (more than you might imagine) came to a standstill as people poured out of the woodwork to see the trophy. Word travels fast in small towns. Back at the Sterling Inn I quickly resupplied, and one of the employees gave Poppins and I a ride to Northern Outdoors. I had a great bowl of tomato soup, the worst hamburger I think I've ever eaten and even worse service. But I got to talk to Tom and to my mom. I was told that there would be a 1:30 shuttle back to the trail, so I waited and talked to Freefall and Footloose (I met them hiking out of Waynesboro into the Shenandoah National Park) and to Neema. As of 1:50, the shuttle still hadn't arrived, so I took to hitch-hiking. I was eager to get back on the trail. I started down the road and less than 5 minutes of hiking later, a minivan pulled up and whisk me away to the trailhead. The trail to the shelter was pretty easy, and I considered hiking farther. But it was cold, and I decided to treat myself to an early day. The shelter was empty when I arrived, but about 20-30 minutes after arrival, a section-hiker appeared. It's been 2 hrs and 20 mins since he arrived, and he hasn't stopped talking for more than 3 mins since his arrival (I timed it). And this isn't 20 hrs and 20 mins of two-way conversation, this is 2 hrs and 20 mins of just him talking. So much for a quiet evening. I'm more or less stopped listening and pulled out my journal to write. That hasn't deterred him. He just asked me if I had earplugs, and I asked him why. He says he's snorer. I'd like to read, but I'm afraid he'll go to sleep before me, and I'll have to kill him in his sleep for snoring. He also recommended that I take benadryl to help me sleep. I kindly declined, and I told him that as a single female hiking and camping alone in the woods, it's not a risk I'm willing to take. And then he proceeds to talk for the next 15 mins about all the grisly murders and accidents that have taken place on the AT. Awesome.