Date: 2006-02-10
From: Walnut Mt Shelter

To: Hot Springs
Miles today: 14.0
Weather: overcast clouds

Elmer's Sunny Bank Inn Sunny, clear 35F All during the night I could hear the two owls call to each other. I had fallen asleep around 20:00 so at 3:00 I was wide awake. The sky was all cloudy and not much light from the moon was penetrating the cloud cover so no "moon walking" tonight. It got 7:30 before I willed myself out of the bag. Then it was off at an amazing pace. Lesser amounts of snow and a waiting mail drop will do a lot to your energy levels - my level was hitting the roof as I got down in elevations with no snow. 14 miles and 6 hours later I entered Hot Springs. I wandered through town following the AT emblems embedded in the sidewalk til I got to Elmer's house. It was an old historical home from 1875 Victorian style with a twist of Italy. The house sat just across the Smoky Mtn Diner and the Dollar General store. walking up the steps a sign on the door read "Thru-hikers please come to the back door." Looking at my muddy boots I instantly understood. Coming around the corner there were a small porch with an overhang filled with recycling containers, a hikers box, a hikers food box, a cat, and a very old refrigerator. On the door a sign was saying "Welcome - Come In - The Door Is Open". I knocked on the door and Elmer opened it. "Hello there come on in". The door lead straight into the kitchen - immediately I was transferred 100 years back in time. This is the kind of kitchen that is difficult to describe, sure there are piles, food, and clutter everywhere but it is the atmosphere you notice immediately. There is a sense of peace, stillness in time, and a true welcome. The stove looks just like an old antique wood burning stove (although it runs on gas) pots and pans are all the heavy kind with a thick layer of soot on the bottoms. Cook books are everywhere and likewise are containers with organic vegetables. A huge bucket with natural peanut butter stands besides jars of home made aplesauce, whole wheat flower, and other baking ingredients. On the stovetop is a big pot with soy beans soaking, waiting to be turned into soy milk. The dining table is covered with news paper upon which seeds are drying and small green sprouts are sticking up from the soil in plant containers. This is a place where everything is made from scratch - and preferably in the old fashioned way - all vegetarian - and mostly organic - from own farm. Elmer shows me upstairs to my room and gives me a quick tour of the house. I could easily spend a week here. Then the bad news hit - I am the only visitor and Elmer only cooks when four or more people have signed in! Well, there is always the Smoky Mtn Diner across the street. Last time through Hot Springs my friends and I had eaten at the diner and the kind lady there had yelled into the kitchen "Them are hikers - load it up" resulting in a severe case of over eating. Well, one of my friends kinda "lost it all" again an hour later up the hill. Therefore I decided I better stay at Elmers and follow up on his invitation to cook my own meal at the veranda upstairs. I went to open my mail drop, which I had received from Nancy. One would have thougth she knew my sore and tired legs because the first thing I saw was a big bag of potassium loaded prunes - not just any kind of prunes but the lemon essence kind - Uhm they were so good - always makes me think of Granddaddy Tom and Nancy - both of whom really understands and appreciates good food with great flavors. Digging deeper there were Orzo, pesto, and olive oil, and down there on the bottom there were even some pepperoni and garlic cheese - I could already taste the trail pizza - the flavor became so powerful I decided to make it this very evening. Thanks for a most wonderful mail drop and the card from all the Muffin women - greetings to all. Took a quick shower and washed a few clothes in the sink. Then it was off to explore the Dollar General (Chips, crackers, tomato sauce) and next the Bluff Mtn Outfitter store (new scrubber for pot, a fresh onion, and a couple of post cards). Back at Elmers it was time to cook trail pizza on my new whisperlight - this would be the test - can the stove do the job right? Huge whole wheat pizza with tomato sauce, fresh onion, garlic, oregano, and garlic cheese - The stove passed with an A+ and I was so full I did not even think about opening the bag of chips. The best thing - there was a sink in which I could wash all the dishes in warm water I really tried to stay awake to read but had to give up - talked a little with Jonathan, Elmer's assistant, he was reading the very same book as I - what are the odds of that!. At 8:00 I had to crawl in bed my eyes were shutting down on me. what a great feeling to crawl underneath a down comforter and a blanket when the room is cold and it is even colder outside.