Date: 2005-04-30
From: Davis Path Shelter

To: Footbridge at Lick Creek
Miles today: 14.3

A good day of hiking in Virginia. I got up and ready to go by 7:30 a.m. Davis Path Shelter sits on the side of a ridge with a steep ascent to the summit behind the shelter and a deep drop-off out front. It was like a wide ledge for the shelter, privy and picnic table to be situated. In the night I could look out across the valley below and see the solid darkness of the opposite ridge and the sky a slight bit more lighted above it in contrast. The contrast became more pronounced as the dawn approached. I took my time preparing for the day. The first part of the hike took me over some rolling terrain - a little up, a little down. A couple of miles out I was atop Gullion Mountain and could look back toward the shelter and see the route I had taken. The ridge where the shelter sat looked massive, and I was now on the ridge I had gazed at in the night. It was an impressive scene. There was a 1000 foot climb up to Tilson Gap and many smaller climbs. After that I traversed several sections of private property through rich farmland, crossing many fences and following farm lanes through narrow wooded corridors between open green pastures and fields. The overcast sky made the rich deep greens of early spring jump at you with vivid color. After crossing all this beautiful open land, I finally reached the edge of the woods again, high up on the steep ridge. I stopped to cook lunch, sitting on a log a few feet into the trees with an almost undescribable view back to the valley below with this morning's ridge as a backdrop. The day was overcast and wet and the downhills were greasy and slippery. I finally came to the north fork of the Holston River. I came down off the mountain at a tight bend in the river through a fairly narrow passageway between the mountains. There was a farmstead on the river bank, and the cattle were pastured right at the river's edge. The water was dark and swift and the bank was very muddy. I crossed an old low-water concrete bridge, obviously engineered to go underwater during heavy rainfall. There was a yellow measuring stick situated at the bridge, delineating the water's depth to at least 5 feet over the bridge. I could imagine the raging water at that depth by looking at the present low water level rushing past. This was a beautiful picturesque spot with the old Tilson's Mill standing at the river's edge, all decked out in gray weathered siding boards and giving a hint of the commercial activity of this rural area in days gone by. I guess the mill was originally built before the Civil War (See my pictures). After crossing the bridge I climbed high above the bend in the river with good views into this remote-feeling farming area of Rich Valley. I came to Knot Maul Branch Shelter at 3:00 and rested there for awhile, read the shelter register and snacked. From there I had one mile of slick descent to Lynn Camp Creek, a one mile climb up Lynn Camp Mountain, and a one mile descent to Lick Creek where I am camped at the footbridge, alone for the night. This section felt remote and sometimes I was in deep dark woods. The hike from Knot Maul was all in the rain, and I set up my tent and did my evening chores in the rain as well. I sat in the tent and cooked with my stove an arms length from the tent door. Not the most convenient but a good experience. You have to take the elements as they come. Lick Creek is more like a small river, and the footbridge is very picturesque as it spans the curving, meandering stream. In addition to the rain, I am being treated to the song of the creek falling over the rocks in several places. I have hiked alone almost the whole time. Today I briefly met Doodle and Underhill, the Over The Hill Gang (5 gentlemen probably in their 60's), and Popeye, who needs to do 20 mile days to Harpers Ferry in order to attend his daughter's graduation. He needs to make it to Chestnut Knob Shelter tonight. I think the real early thru hikers are north of me, and there are others a few miles to the south. I'm in a "seam" and do not have much companionship so far - alone both nights in camp. That's ok as it gives me some time to myself. I went a little over 14 miles again today. A significant distance for the first days of a hike. I prayed for each family member today as I hiked along, and especially prayed for Marlene to have a good time at her annual Ladies Retreat. I reviewed some scripture memory verses too as I hiked along. Today was more of a challenge than yesterday. I am ok but I hope to sleep well tonight. Tomorrow I have a significant climb for six miles up Chestnut Ridge beginning right away in the morning. Virginia is so beautiful and I am thoroughly enjoying myself. The forest is close in on all sides near this stream. The wet, misty weather makes it feel even more enclosed, and artificially dark. I am writing in my tent to the tap, tap, tap of the rain, and that will likely continue into the night. I'm going to relax and let it sing me to sleep. Goodnight Sweetheart. PS Just before dark August and Wood came through, planning to hike two miles up and then camp.