Date: 2015-11-20
From: Paul C. Wolf Shelter

To: Stealth Camping Near 3 Ridges Overlook
Miles today: 13.6

I woke early and got ready to leave. Andrew slept in. A granite bench was placed near the creek in front of the shelter as a memorial to an experienced local hiker who froze to death while hiking the PCT. It reminded me that no one is invincible, and to remember to take the weather very seriously. Winter is nipping at my heels.Andrew was up when I returned from the creek. We talked as I finished pulling my pack together.During our talk I realized how very lucky I was. I could afford to stay indoors while in town. I could occassionally get warm and dry, and get a good night's sleep and a good meal. I also could afford good light weight gear. But most importantly, I have someone at home who loves and worries about me. Someone who will send out the troops to search for me if I come up missing.Andrew has no one. He has no cell phone and no SPOT. He contacted no one regularly to let them know he is OK, or to share his trail stories with. If he suddenly completely vanished from the AT, I suspect his absence would go unnoticed, at least for a while. On the AT, if you have warm dry clothes (notice I did not say they had to be clean), shelter from the weather, food, water, and (most importantly) someone back home who cares about you, you have everything you need and you are truly lucky. Several people I have met on the AT did not seem to have anyone back home. I cannot imagine how that must feel.I headed out ahead of Andrew. I hesitated crossing the swollen creek in front of the shelter. I could not find any place to safely rock hop across, so I just walked across quickly with my boots on. Surprisingly my feet stayed dry. Then I started a long steady climb out of the gap. Just when I thought I was done, there was more mountain to climb. Surprisingly I ran into several day hikers. On one of the long climbs I ran into 3 middle aged day hikers who also do trail maintenance. They were staying in a nearby cabin and invited me to stay with them. I knew it would be very cold during the night. It was a tempting offer, but I politely declined and kept moving.Later in the day I met a woman and her adult daughter out day hiking. The mother said she was planning to hike a small section of the AT with her sister in 2016. She had no backpacking experience and had several questions. I was happy to try to help her, but I warned her that traffic was expected to be very heavy on the AT in 2016 and suggested she try another easier trail instead.Instead of going up and down over the mountains, the AT began to hug the sides of the mountains. Initially I thought this was great and seemed to make good time. But then the trail grew rocky and narrow. It was tough picking my way through the rocks while trying not to tumble down the side of the mountain. At times the trail was on a narrow rock cliff. At times I had to pick my way through a boulder field that ran down the side of the mountain.It was getting late in the afternoon. I knew it would be dark about 5 p.m. There were few water sources and no flat spots to pitch a tent. I was starting to worry and kept going. I did not want to pick through the rocks on the side of a mountain in the dark.At 4 p.m. I checked Guthook. It was clear that I would not reach the shelter before dark, but thankfully it showed a campsite that was not listed in the AT guide about a mile ahead. Shortly before dark I found what looked like a small stealth campsite a stone's thow from the AT. I heard coyotes howling very close by as I set up my tent. With little water, and concerned about bears, I skipped dinner and quickly hung my food.I looked up to see Andrew coming down the trail. He too was looking for a safe flat spot to spend the night. I invited him to join me. (I later found out that he had hiked behind me all day long. He watched me talk with the 3 men and the mother/daughter day hikers, but never caught up to me or passed me. It was a little unnerving, like he was stalking me. But I just had to put those thoughts out of my mind.)Andrew built a little fire in the fire pit and rolled out his bivy and wool blanket. I had no idea how he was going to stay warm. His clothes were mostly cotton. I helped him gather firewood, then went back to my camp chores.We talked for a while as I finished getting ready for bed. I wondered why he hiked by himself behind me, within sight of me, all day, but decided to camp with me at the end of the day. He is much younger than me and has very long legs. He could have easily passed me and made more miles today. I could not figure it out.The AT is calling. Once again I hope I am still here in the morning.