Date: 2015-04-15
From: Russell Field Shelter, NC

To: Silers Bald Shelter, NC/TN
Miles today: 15.0

Today was one of those days you'd like to forget. I'm currently sitting in Silers Bald Shelter along with ~15 other dirty, shivering hikers and questioning why I'm doing this. By no means am I considering quitting - far from it - but it's a huge mental game sludging through rain and mud all day only to find minimal escape from the elements.Last night was a him at what was to come when I was awakened in the middle of the night to rain pounding the rooftop of the shelter. The rain would still be going in the morning, making the hike ahead one worth forgetting. Moosehead, Burnsides, and me headed off into the rain at 8am and made our slowest progress since our first couple days on the trail. We passed Spence Field Shelter, Jenkins Ridge, Rocky Top, and Thunderhead Mountain which would be the highest point of the day at 5,527ft. There were no views to be seen today due to thick cloud cover which kept anything past ~20 yards shrouded in mystery. It's a shame because both Rocky Top and Thunderhead Mountain promised excellent views of the southern Smokies. All we could do is catch our breath at each summit and press on.Little was said throughout the day as most of our focus was centered around every step, fighting off slippery mud and rocks, making the day both mentally and physically challenging. We continued on through Starkey Gap and Sugar Tree Gap until finally reaching Derrick Knob Shelter which was our lunch destination. We squeezed in among other weary hikers, shivering and dripping wet, and quickly scarfed down a few snacks for much-needed calories. A simple Snickers and granola bar for me. Before we had time to feel remotely dry, we were back on the trail trying to beat other hikers to the remaining 2 shelters that were within reach for the day. Shelters are simply first come, first served and, in the Smokies in particular, you're never guaranteed a spot if other people have made reservations.From Derrick Knob Shelter, it was ~5 miles to our current location through Sams Gap, Cold Spring Knob, and Buckeye Gap. We caught up and passed around ~10 hikers during this stretch, ensuring ourselves a spot to sleep. Every step seemed futile as my feet slid back half a step with every one step forward. I tried avoiding the really muddy spots in order to keep my boots as dry as possible, but even that proved worthless. We hobbled into camp around 3:30pm and quickly found ourselves in a state of stooper, unsure of what to do with ourselves as we stood aimlessly looking around. Every day the same chores must be done in order to eat, sleep, and conserve a sense of cleanliness, but is made way worse in a cold downpour. All I wanted to do was ball up in my sleeping bag to warm up, but I needed to gather water and clean myself first. I made my way 30 yards into TN, filled up my water bottles, and did an acceptable enough job cleaning myself with my trembling hands. I returned to the shelter and, too cold and tired to cook a meal, I snacked. The menu included a Butterfingers, 2 granola bars, a family-sized pack of tuna, M&M's, and a handful of Starbursts. It was enough to do the trick.I'm currently warm, sitting on the bottom row of the wooden platforms, next to Moosehead as he plans out our next several days of hiking. The weather calls for a few more crumby days so I'm mentally preparing to put on my cold, wet clothes each morning and slosh through the rain and mud all day. If the weather is particularly bad tomorrow, we will have the option of going into Gatlinburg once we reach Newfound Gap, but our goal is to reach Icewater Spring Shelter, currently 15 miles away.Tomorrow we will be standing atop Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the trail, and celebrating the 200-mile mark which technically comes less than half a mile later. Hopefully those 2 milestones will help us to forget the otherwise crumby conditions. It's important to remember: no rain, no Maine.Looks to be an early night as several hikers are already lying in their sleeping bags, and it's only 6:30pm. It's the rain affect.Tomorrow we head up an additional 1,200 vertical feet where we'll top off for the day at Clingman's Dome, 6,655ft high. From there it's relatively downhill Intl Newfound Gap and our next shelter beyond. However, 15 miles is still 15 miles so hopefully my body feels better in the morning.Hopefully more positive updates to come in the days ahead. Onward.