Date: 2006-03-14
From: Neels Gap (Mountain Crossings @ Walasi-Yi)

To: Low Gap Shelter
Miles today: 10.6
Weather: clear sky

3-14-06Neels Gap (Mountain Crossings @ Walasi-Yi) to Low Gap Shelter10.6 milesThe fourth fabulous day:Woke up with the rest of the men (besides Scott, him and Jen are married, therefore are entitled to the private room) at around 6:30AM, a time I will soon associate with waking up on an everyday basis. Munched down some granola (where is the hot breakfast at this place?) and packed the Beast up. Hopping around trying to contain my excitement at using the new Lekis and the tamed Beast on these fierce Georgia slopes. The previous 55-pound behemoth of back-crushing, leg-pounding lead brick was now reduced to a more manageable, happy-go-lucky weight of 38 pounds. Also, the way the Beast sat on my back was much improved, more evenly balanced and rested correctly with 90% of the weight on my hips and 10 % on my shoulders, as it should be. I felt like I could sprint up mountains with the Beast, conquering peak after peak in my new found lighter glory. Reality check, I am not quite there yet.C-RAM trail wisdom:One thing every AT hiker will eventually come to understand is that any area with a name that ends with "Gap" is a mixed blessing, a double-edged swords of sorts. Sure, sure, you can go down into one and there is usually a shelter or a store or a water source or a main road going to a town or a hostel, or at least you know your mileage at that point, but then you raise your gazer to a little further on, and low and behold, another wonderful peak to climb.So this is the situation I faced today: initial excitement about the pack, eventual realization and dismay upon seeing our next climb.But the trekking poles and lighter pack made a huge difference. I could now hike uphill with a strong, steady pace and not stop. My breathing would get heavier, but it would level off and maintain a steady rhythm. It was an amazing feeling, sucking down big gulps of fresh mountain air and conquering peak after peak. On the downhill sections, the poles offered so much stability I could literally bounce down steep slopes safely and with less strain. They were my hiking wings (at this point you might find it appropriate to play yourself a song of inspiration and hope and the likes, just to get into the mood of the previous paragraph).In any event, my excitement and newer, lighter nature soon propelled me well ahead of the rest of the group. I met a couple of kids on spring break from school named Matt and Tye who were just bumming it around the mountains for a few weeks. I passed by Billy John Bob and Dogboy. I was impressed with Dogboy's hiking prowess, because even without trekking poles he is a very strong hiker and managed to keep up with me all day. He doesn't say much but he sure can hike. I think his secret is the use the dog to pull him onward on the up hills.Descending into Hog Pen Gap, where Ga. 348 passed through, I spotted two people with a park car and some food setup in the parking area. Could it be that these mythical creatures I had read and heard so much about were actually a reality on the trail? TRAIL ANGELS! My first ones! There they were trunk open; handing out soda, water, bananas, apples, lemon cookies, snack cakes, lawn chairs, greetings and friendly smiles. Bruce and Myrtle, my first two trail angels.Dogboy and an ex-military man, currently an anesthesiologist, with a trailname Sleeper, were already there, enjoying themselves. I helped myself to a soda and sat down on one of the lawn chairs, set up out of the wind whipping through the Gap, to rest. It had been a sunny but extremely windy day that day, and you got chilled very easily if you stayed out in the wind. Did the old switcharoo with my boots and sandals, was going to hike in sandals the rest of the day (a good idea if you are nursing some blisters).For an hour and an half I sat and talked to these wonderful and generous people. Bruce was a previous thru-hiker and would talk to you with his face downward, as if looking inward for memories and events to tell me about. He told me stories of the trappers and hunters he met on sections through Virginia who described to him in very minute detail the right way to make a mole porridge, the exact consistency a beaver stew should have when done right, and the exquisite flavor of a deep friend coon liver. He is (or had been) a track and field officiator, and told me about big, beastly shot-putter women who could pick him up like a child and shake him, and he was no small man. One humorous story was about a pack clip of his that had gotten stolen in the night when he was staying at shelter with a church group, so when he realized what had happened and noticed they all had similar packs, he selected a clip at random to replace his missing clip and was on his way. I told him how funny it would be when the actual thief got up, with Bruce nowhere in sight, and another church boy's clip missing. We had a good laugh at that.Myrtle was a very quiet gentle woman who only spoke to me a few times but I could sense her great kindness and greatly appreciated her hospitality. When Uncle John finally got there and had his fill on trail angel generosity, I thanked them both for everything and got their address, to send them notice and more thanks when I finish the AT. I will always remember my first trail angels.I decided at this point that I would now utilize Uncle John as my speed governor; to slow down my speedy feet I let him set the pace.C-RAM trail wisdom:A good walking companion allows for the separateness and togetherness in the art of hiking to be reached. Togetherness because, well, obviously you and a your hiking partner are walking together, one after another in close proximity on the same path, with the option to converse, and separate because each individual hiker is looking at the path and its surroundings in their own unique way, each one experiencing different aspects of the trail, thinking their individual thoughts. Two separate people connect in the simple act of walking. The Zen of hiking, perhaps.Thus we hiked until we reached Low Gap Shelter. It was 4:30PM and I wanted to push on for another mile or so for a solitary campsite, but Uncle John was pretty beat. Jen, Cindy, and Scott soon arrived, and we all found a good spot to camp at together. Officially the best camping dinner had yet: a package of Stove Top Stuffing (simple enough: add margarine and hot water) with 5 oz. of tuna mixed in. It was spectacular, especially after a cold, windy day like this one had been.Also of note, first time setting up my tent, a Sierra Designs Lightning, in the wild. It is aptly named, because ZAP!, like a bolt of lightning you got this baby set up, Its a beaut, with a nicely sized vestibule that is big enough to store two packs in and cook right there while sitting in the comfort of the tent. Uncle John and I hung our food, filtered some water, and chatted with out hiking friends before quickly crawling into our sleeping bags to go to bed; it was getting very chilly. An amazing sunset, with the moon rising from the opposite horizon in unison to the setting sun. I live for this beauty.