Date: 2003-07-25
From: Eliza Brook Shelter

To: Franconia Notch 193/US 3 N Woodstock NH 
Miles today: 8.8
Weather: light rain

Day 134 Avg Mls/Day 13.4Weather: Cloudy, foggy, and dank while I was on top of the mountains. Mostly sunny when I got into town. High in low 80's.Today's Nature: Beautiful waterfallFalls: Today 0 Total 8Slept well in the tent/shelter last night. Was greeted around 6 in the morning by the resident chipmunk. I could never tell if it was raining during the night because the shelter is located right next to the brook which was roaring.Everything that was wet last night was still wet this morning. I put on dry socks knowing they would soak up some of the water in the boots. I planned to do the laundry in town later anyway.By the time I ate something, packed up and started walking it was after 7:30. The first concern was crossing the brook. Altough the water level did drop overnight, it took quite a bit of rock hopping to get across without getting already wet boots wetter. Two other brooks later in the hike were just as bad.What I didn't know was the climb I was in for. I started right off climbing from 2,800' at Eliza Brook up to 4,358' at South Kinsman. Most of it was "rock slides" and tree roots. Really slow going. No more 2 mph or better days until I'm through the Whites. It took me until after 11 and as usual absolutely no views...all fogged in.One nice surprise. As I was walking from South Kinsman to North Kinsman I looked up and there was Bearly Bald hiking toward me. You may recall I met him back before Duncannon PA when he and Hotfoot were together. Today, he was slackpacking a section SOBO. We chatted for awhile. I believe he said he was just completing the Whites so I probably won't see him again.Today I visited my first "Hut" on the Trail, Lonesome Lake Hut. In NH they have these inn like places with rooms, bunks and food. I believe it cost $70 a night to stay there. Hikers can sleep on the tables or floors for a minimal charge. They also let the first couple of hikers each day "work for stay." The trouble is, up further in the Whites that is all there is...there's no shelters or lean-to's. I believe you even have to tent near a hut unless you "stealth camp."One thing the Huts do is sell leftover food extremely cheap. Today I had a ham sandwich, and 2 kinds of cake for a buck. Lemonade was 50 cents a glass. I bought a bowl of soup for a dollar. The food is pretty good so I'll try to hit these huts whenever I can.It was past 2 by the time I completed 8.7 miles to route 3. I hitched a ride into N Woodstock with Dave. He shuttles bicyclers out to the hills. He dropped me off at the Comfort Inn. They really were not interested in hiker business, it was either a smoking room or a business suite...both overpriced.I walked back into N Woodstock where I found this clean older place. It has everything except a phone in the room for $60.Got cleaned up; did my laundry across the street; did my emails and went to a local cafe for dinner.Met a couple in the next room that are here for the weekend, Barry & Stacey...locals who come here often to get away. Barry recognized me as a hiker and we got to talkng. He let me use his cell phone to call Julia tonight. Thanks Barry, it was much appreciated.Later the motel had a campfire going on the other side of the pool. I joined the group for a fireside chat.I guess I'll take a zero here tomorrow while I can. The boots should dry out and I can check out the local outfitter. It will probably be the first day it doesn't rain on the Trail in a week. There is supposed to be scattered showers on Sunday. I come in to dry out and this is what I get...we'll see.Thought for the Day: The Whites will still be there on Sunday.