Date: 2009-04-13
From: Double Spring Shelter, GSMNP, NC

To: Gatlinburg, TN
Miles today: 10.8
Weather: overcast clouds

No such luck in a quick getaway. Overnight the weather changed drastically. The wind absolutely howled to the point where I thought the tarp would rip loose, but it didn't. The shelter roof was made partly of clear polycarbonate panels above my head and I could see the nearby tree limbs bending like grassblades and hear the ever present, it seems, rain. The crowded shelter was busy with departures, and occasional arrivals, the Silers Bald Shelter was only 1.7m south, and those hiders poked in their heads only to say hello, but with all of this activity I chose to wait for room enough to move efficiently. With Clingman's Dome less than 3m away I would walk straight there and take a short break from the fierce blowing rain and mountain mist. I had been warned by chicken cooking friend that the approach trail was exposed on both sides and I remember making a comment that this was Mt Washington weather and as a thru-hiker, with her husband, '80, she concurred. The path was bad. The occasional pines offered some relief, but the open areas, esp where the muddy goat trails, that is, where the trail becomes a deep narrow trench, in the grassy spots were, required the sticks for balance. It was dangerous. I arrived at the summit and the paved path to the tower. I optimistically thought there may be some type of shelter from the weather at this tower, so I proceeded. There is a 360 degree ramp to the observation platform which I stubbornly followed still hoping for some type of enclosure. I rounded the last 90 degrees of the ramp, which was about 12' wide, and was actually blown to the left side and realized that the hand railing was about hip high, me being top heavy, I steeped back toward the center and within seconds was back at the side where I was forced to hold the shiny, cold aluminum rail to the rest of the ascent where I quickly realized, seeing is believing, and believing is not seeing, no shelter from these now hurricane force winds. Back down, right away, but on the way down I saw that the first 20' or so of the ramp was built on blocks and at the end was a rusted, kicked in, old metal door, Back on the ground I hurried over to the abandoned storage shed, searched the rear of it for whatever could be, and wasn't, and dropped my pack to regain my composure. There really was shelter!Ten minutes later I was headed down the mountain still not sure of my destination. Mt Collins Shelter was only 6.8m from Double Spring and Ice Water Spring Shelter was another 8m beyond that. Yeah, but 8.3m off of Clingman's was Newfound Gap, Hwy 441, and Gatlinburg, TN 15m down the road. When I arrived at Newfound Gap the wind was still stinging misty moisture, and with a hole in my down bag dry sack from the bear cable hook the previous night, and having only a partial small canister of fuel, I opted to something I hadnt done in about 38 years - hitchhike! About the 8th car stopped, the guy was from Cleveland, not going all the way, about 5m short to Sugarland Campground. Fine, even though I always hated those partial rides. It was one long down hill ride, 15m, steep at times, and I saw a new road sign: a circle with an arrow tangent to it, but that is exactly what the road did, a spiral under itself, followed by a couple of tunnels further down. The weather changed drastically on the descent, as well as the seasons. First blue sky patches, then sunshine, green leaves, road side flowers, people in short sleeves, and I was actually 2m out of town, I walked a ways to a widened section of road and again put out the ol' thumb. Ten minutes later I got a hit. A guy, local I guess, said that I was in for culture shock. I remembered hearing someone describe Gatlinburg as Vegas without the gambling. I tried to piece together what I had heard earlier, wait, that was Ski Mtn Rd, 0k, I'll get out here. I walked up the road, hey there's the Happy Hiker outfitter, ooh, closed at 5, its after 6 and on up the hill, I was looking for the Grand Prix or DuPree, there's the Grand Prix, with hiker rates. Great, double beds with a bath, I'm gonna fill it and soak my feet, but first laundry and while closing my door, there's Cruiser Don coming down the hall to check his. I had a nice chat, he was going out for Italian, I said I wanted a steak, see ya later. On my second trip downstairs I ran into Steph and her Mom who met her for the night. I went to the convenient store, bought some junk food while the laundry was going and called Soni at Cousin Sandy's birthday weekend. Along the road Hop Scotch pulled up in a car, front passenger, we chatted briefly, he too with his Mom, she looked 35. Later I went out for a cheeseburger, cheesy brocolli, salad fried mushrooms, and mashed potatoes at a brewhouse with karaoke. I slept well 'til 4am.