Date: 2010-08-28
From: Stealth Camp N of Zealand Falls Hut

To: Crawford Notch, US 302
Miles today: 7.3
Weather: fog

By the light of early morning, found a legal campsite about 25' north across the trail from where we stealth camped. We were so tired last night though that we just grabbed the first level spot we found. As Wild Poodle, Cahoda and I were preparing breakfast, we heard a young male voice singing a ribald tune coming up the trail. A moment later, Ball Hawk came into view. He immediately stopped singing and apologized for his R-rated lyrics but he had an excited grin on his face and told us he had just seen a bull moose about 500 feet down the trail that had really eyeballed him before casually walking into the woods. Ball Hawk had grabbed his camera, carefully moved in closer to the moose and took a great video. So far, neither Cahoda nor Wild Poodle have seen a moose but we were all just as excited as Ball Hawk because they are such grand, lumbering creatures. After taking the video, Ball Hawk had been singing to scare it off as bulls can be a bit ornery so close to rutting season.   His excitement was energizing and we quickly packed up and started hiking soon after.The trail continued on the old railbed and was relatively and blessedly flat. The mountains were stark with obvious signs of rock slides and huge boulder fields around us but it was a pleasant hike in the woods after the difficulties of the Franconia Ridge. Went about 412 miles before a steep 3 mile downhill into the notch.   Looking back, we could see the Zealand Falls Hut nestled on the mountainside and got a real sense of how remote most of these huts are.We all had to do a small resupply so decided to stay at one of the campgrounds in the notch overnight. Before starting the steep descent, we had a cell signal so called ahead to make a campsite reservation. We tried the private campground 3 miles off the trail that had a store but they were full so tried the closer state-run Dry River Campground. The caretaker said he wasn't sure if he had one site left or not but when we told him we were thru-hikers, he said if it is already taken he would find space for us. We met many dayhikers coming up the mountain as we made our way down. Even though steep in places, it was a not too hard descent with good treadway. Rock-hopped across some streams and laughed at each other as we each seem to take a different route negotiating these crossings. I guess each know our own capabilities and inherently take what we perceive is the easiest route for our individual abilities. I can "see" my route going up rock climbs, but Cahoda is the master at laying out her path over water. I don't always visually predetermine my path all the way across and many times end up at a dead-end midstream and have to backtrack to get all the way across.At the bottom, we had an easy downhill road walk for about half a mile to get to US 302. We were going to try to hitch a ride the 112 miles to the campground so when we got to the road, I immediately put my thumb out. Cahoda suggested we stand about 40 feet up the road to make it easier for cars to pull over but I said, "No¢there's a pickup truck coming" as we've learned that pickup trucks are more likely to pick up hikers. Sure enough, it was a 2-second hitch. The truck pulled over. Turned out the driver was Jeb from the campground whose boss had said to keep an eye out for three ladies coming off the trail. We piled into the back of the truck and he drove us right to the place we were to camp which turned out to be an open field tucked behind the shower/laundry/restroom building in the campground. It was perfect and even had a picnic table. We set up our tents and while Cahoda and Wild Poodle showered, I hitched up to the store at the other campground. Picked up a few supplies, but it was slim pickings. When I asked where there was a grocery store, they said it was about 3 miles the other way from where we were staying. Ended up I walked all the way back to our campground¢no one picked me up, probably because I wasn't wearing my backpack. Told the other two ladies what I found out so they hitchhiked (successfully) to the other store only to find out it was only a deli. However, the manager was nice enough to put together some food items from which they could make some meals. After getting laundry started and taking my much needed shower, I was sitting at the picnic table talking to some other campers. Awhile later, the son of one of the people I had talked to brought us a pizza¢nice trail magic¢and it was still hot. Then when I went to pay for our campsite, the caretaker said there was no charge.So other than having to walk a mile and a half off-trail, it was an excellent day.