Date: 2017-08-25
From: NH 25, Hikers Welcome Hostel

To: Stealth Camp by Beaver Brook
Miles today: 9.1

8/25NH 25, Hikers Welcome Hostel to Stealth Camp by Beaver Brook9.1 miles Total miles:  1800.2Dustin and I both signed up for breakfast this morning, which was served at 7:00. Again, it is obvious that Legion, who operates the hostel, understands hikers.  Two hikers who had been at the hostel yesterday explained the routine. At seven o'clock sharp, we were all seated around the table with a plate and fork before us. Legion appeared bearing a large platter of pancakes, a big bowl of scrambled eggs, and a plate heaped with bacon. By the time we were finished, one lonely pancake was all that remained. Scout found room to polish it off.  During breakfast, Legion talked about hiking the Whites.  He stressed the need to take it slow and to forgo any ideas of doing large miles.  He pointed out that the Whites were in many ways the Crown Jewels of the AT and should be enjoyed, and not viewed as something to be gotten through. Fortunately, I took his message to heart. I had completely packed before breakfast and was ready to hike out by 8:00. I jokingly asked Legion if I could get a shuttle back to the trailhead, a distance of perhaps a quarter mile. "Sure," he replied, "but it will cost you fifty bucks." Needless to say that, after bidding a fond farewell to Dustin, I walked. Legion would later shuttle him to the airport. Thank you again, Dustin!  My initial plan was to hike to the summit of Mount Moosilauke and stop at the next shelter which was located part way down the other side, a distance of 7.8 miles. The ascent for northbounders was reported to be long and steep, but it's the descent on the other side that really gets attention. On the ascent, the trail gains 3,458 feet over the course of 4.4 miles.  On the descent, the trail drops 2,932 feet in 3.8 miles. There is a section, however, where the descent is 1,932 feet in a mere 1.3 miles. While I knew it would be a long, hard day, I was excited to climb my first big mountain in the Whites, and to be above tree line. The ascent, while long and slow, was not particularly difficult to hike, and I covered the 4.4 miles in a little over three hours, arriving at the summit at 12:15. The wind picked up as I cleared the last of the trees and followed the line of rock cairns set up to establish the trail when visibility is poor.  It was cold and windy at the top, and completely socked in with fog. Another hiker took my photo at the summit, and then I huddled behind one of the rocky windbreaks to eat my lunch.  About a half an hour after I arrived, as I was getting ready to begin my descent, an amazing thing happened. The wind picked up even more, and the fog was gone in about two minutes. The ensuing views were stunning. Between the cold, hard gusts of wind and the fact I was shivering a bit, not all of my photos turned out, but I am so pleased I got to see the views. I had my photo taken at the summit again, and headed to the shelter, which was 2.3 miles away. The trail was somewhat rugged and steep, but nothing like what would come later, and I reached the shelter at 3:15.  I had planned to stay the night there, but Slingshot had news that altered things.  Gravity and his friend, Felix, who had stayed at the shelter just north of the hostel last night, had recently left to hike on to a stealth campsite near the road at the bottom of Moosilauke. I was feeling fine, so I decided to join them.  The descent was indeed very steep, and I took my time as I worked my way down boulder to boulder. There were places where wooden chocks and rebar grab irons were added to assist, but it was largely a case of trying to puzzle out a doable passageway down through the boulders.  Most of the way down, the trail parallels a beautiful, noisy, fast flowing stream that cascades down the mountain in a series of waterfalls. It took me over two hours to complete that 1.3 miles, but the time flew by, and I was comforted by the fact that I still had hours before dark. I caught up with Gravity and Felix on the way down,  so we reached the campsite together. We had just started setting up our tents when I heard this voice loudly call out, "Felix J. McGillicuty, how the heck are you?" I am learning that Felix is very well known among the AT community, and his friend, Stitches, had gotten wind that he was around.  Felix hiked sobo in 1998, and Stitches is a 1999 nobo, and they are good friends. Stitches had her van and offered us a ride into town for dinner.  She didn't need to offer twice. We quickly set up our tents and stowed our gear. Stormy, who was already in her tent, had just returned from town and offered to keep an eye on things. We brought her back a coveted Fanta Grape soda to say thanks. We piled into the van and headed for town. We ate at a pizzeria and had a great time eating and joking with our server. Felix is a natural comedian and a lot of fun to be around. After dinner, we returned to our campsite to go to bed. I'm not sure how far we'll hike tomorrow, but I am sure to remember to take my time, not push too hard, and to continue enjoying my journey through the Whites.