Date: 2005-03-28
From: Hot Springs, NC

To: 0.75 miles north of Allen Gap
Miles today: 15.3
Weather: light rain

start: Hot Springs, NCfinish: 0.75 miles north of Allen Gap miles: 15.3day: 21It rained all last night.  A good night to be in the hostel.  I woke around 6:00, showered, and went across the street for breakfast.  Bacon, eggs, salt cured ham, hash browns, toast, and a good strong cup of tea.The one particularly troublesome blister seems walkable today.  I took more anti-inflammatory and coated it with Neosporin and a band-aid.  I also added a pad to the orthotic so the blister would get less direct pressure.Down in the sitting room waiting for Goldilocks to finish breakfast - he signed up for Elmer's again.  They don't serve until 8:30.  It's raining pretty good again.  Looks like a wet day ahead.A hiker staying at the hostel named Roaming Gnome seems to have lost his wallet.  What a drag!  He's on the phone trying to make arrangements.  I offer to loan him some cash for the short term.  He accepts and takes my home address to send me a check when he gets things straightened out.It requires constant attention to not lose things, as I'm forever packing, repacking, unpacking.  Back in "civilization" I only have to not lose the few things with me at any given time, but out here it's all with me all the time.  There is no "home base".We say our farewells and head on down to the PO to get stamps and so I can mail a few minor pieces of gear ahead that I don't need right now.Then we pass the outfitter, saying so long to Wayne and Baltimore Jack, who gives us a weather report of rain today and clear tomorrow.Time to climb.  The trail is easy today, and the rest has done me good.  I feel great - really strong.  The blister is quiet on the uphill, complains a bit on the down.It rained off and on all day, and was breezy and quite cold.  Enough so that it sleeted for a while after lunch.Around 5:00 we come to Allen Gap.  We're only planning to go another couple of miles and make camp.  But wait!!  There's a sign that says our favorite two words: TRAIL MAGIC!  A couple named Fal and Hercules, who thru-hiked in 1999 live right nearby and are offering hikers to come in, warm up, and get fed.  They have a driveway steeper than the climb out of Stecoah Gap, but we whiz right up it and knock on the door.The door opens and we take off our packs and shoes and glide into a dream.  Really nice people, a friendly puppy, a beautiful, warm log cabin, and fantastic food.  Hot soup, homemade biscuits, coconut cream pie, English Breakfast tea, and fresh brownies.  I almost forgot how nasty and cold it was outside.  Fal is a great cook, and they are enjoying meeting and helping hikers this season.  They'll post the sign when they're available, probably through April.  Thanks a lot folks for the best trail magic ever.Since it's now getting late, we decide to just walk 3/4 mile or so to find a stealth spot.  It's VERY windy now, setting up our tarps.  And raining light but steady.  Quite cold, in the low 30s I think.The wind is blowing some rain in as a fine mist as I write this, and my fingers are freezing.  Didn't bother cooking anything tonight after our feast.  Perhaps I'll have a dinner for breakfast tomorrow.