Date: 2006-03-14
From: Frankling, NC

To: Cold Spring Shelter
Miles today: 15.8
Weather: clear sky

I just woke up from a dream. I was walking off the trail into a campsite. A woodsy looking man on the top, maybe a ranger, asked me how far I was going. I told him Maine. I pulled back with emotion for a few seconds because I thought about what I was doing. The ranger indicated that he understands; he'd probably seen it before.That's not actually realistic. There are no rangers here. There aren't usually campsites at trail heads. But the feeling was real. Occasionally I'm still awed at the goal and at achieving it. I think we all picture what it will be like and what we'll do when we summit Katahdin. It's over 2000 miles away, but we know what's at the end.We do talk about it sometimes. Today a shuttle I Was talking to the driver. I made reference to the numbers who start vs. how many actually complete. Every one sitting in the back looked up. Their faces said we are all going to finish.As I hike, I don't think a lot about the final destination. You can't when you are this far away. I just think about walking and about where I'll put my pack down for the night. Monk or Milk Dud said to me today, "Boulder you never have a map." I also don't think about the next town or the next state, just about the hike and the steps and pack on my back. I'm in no hurry. Everyone knows my philosophy even if they don't share it. Today people were talking about how many days we are out of Nantahala Outdoor Center. Almost competitively. That happens. They even talk about what time they'll arrive, effectively saying "Sure maybe we'll get there some day but my group will get their first." I get it but don't feel it. Right now I love being on the trail and am not racing to get home. I said this to a bunch of hikers today who didn't believe me. How could I not be pushing myself to the next town and the next? How could I not want to get through the Smokies and into Virginia as fast as I could? What was I doing out here if it wasn't so important? I said it was to be moving. Of putting one foot in front of another. Of Finishing a particularly challenging stretch of trail. One hiker said that I made no sense. Yes, for me this is a challenge, a huge one, but I'm not out to rack up miles and bag peaks and check off states on a tick list.Wonderful hike today, one of the best so far. We all seem to agree. Even after what I just said, it was great to put in the effort and complete our biggest mile day. The day was perfect, bright and cloudless sky, temperature in the 50's with a constant light breeze. The trail itself was beautiful, lots of winding up slopes and down into gaps. The grass is green and the light made everything look welcoming and peaceful. We are in the balds right now. The first we crossed was Siler Bold. It was so beautiful we all took time out to stop and play. The trail doesn't go over the peak of this mountain. You have o take an obvious side trail. This bald is treeless on top. A huge open green field slopes up to the mountain. It's very windy up there. I put on an extra layer and we walked up to the top. Walking in a treeless field where you can actually see more than 10-20 feet ahead doesn't happen on this part of the trail.We reached the top for the best views we've seen so far, 360 degrees, all of us impressed. There's nothing up there but grass and one gnarled dead tree in the shape of a V. This peak we'll remember. On the way down, JP laid down on the slope to do a log roll to the bottom. She made it pretty far. Roadrunner did her one better, summersaulting as far as he could. Siler was all of our 1st 5000 footers.We ate lunch by the stone observation tower at Wayah Bald, 5340 feet. Again, 360 degree view. We looked back on Siler, both amazed at how far we'd come in a couple of hours and just how beautiful. We located several memorable peaks. Mt. Albert seemed so far away after being on it only 2 days ago. We are tripping into trail shape for sure. I was nice steady climbing on a green, green part to the top of Wayah. Very windy and cold on top. I sat on a flat rock warmed by the sun, all on the leeward side of the tower.A few more descents and ascents brought us within a mile and a half of Cold Spring Shelter. A hand written sign under the trail sign told us there was a trail angel at work. He had left an angel lawn ornament on the path pointing the way. The angel, Apple, had a large tent set up with chairs, table, wood burning stove. He'd been there a week and will be there more. The table was a hiker's dream. Whole boxes of Snickers and peanut butter cups. He gave everyone a soda. He cooked hot dogs for all of us and made hot cocoa before we left. Lots of people pulled in so we could only chat with other folks on the trail. Apple keeps a list of everyone passing through. He's had over 80 in the past week and the next bigger wave is coming up behind us. Apple has come from Texas the past 4 years to do this. This year he's retired and wil start his own thru-hike on April 1st.The camp's pretty packed tonight. There were 2 at the shelter arrived. Our group of 8 including Bushwhacker pulled in. A group of 4 or 5 more came in after us. We've been meeting off and on Captain, Pinkey, Sunshine, Buddy. Swanson and Curly aren't with them right now. Swanson had to get off the trail for an emergency root canal.Josh from Arkansas hiked most of the day with us and moved to the next camp down the line. He's quiet and likes his solitude,but has a sneaky sense of humor. While waiting for the shuttle out of town we were talking about people who carry guns on the trail and how there could be one right next to you and you wouldn't know it. I asked Josh if he was packing heat. He grinned quickly and wouldn't answer either way.It's cold tonight and the wind makes it colder. I passed up the shelter and pitched my tent on top of a ridge. Even windier up here. I'm wearing all my layers plus mittens and scarf tonight. My fingers are freezing up as I write with my hand out of my bag. Time to put it back in.