Date: 2011-05-29
From: Hot Springs, NC

To: Hemlock Hollow Hostel
Miles today: 16.3

Early start from Nolichucky, though James doesn't seem in any hurry to leave, I get a sense of passive aggressive behaviour, he's looking for excuses not to leave and keeps "finding" more things to do. It's a bit of a hairy ride along the twisting mountain roads between Erwin and Hot Springs, James seems to drive faster and faster as we go along and the tires on his US made car are occasionally squealing on the tight bends.It's a pretty drive, mostly in up and valley with old tobacco farms and drying barns withering in the late spring heat. Bunnys keep hopping across the road in front of us, they need some foxes to keep them in check! Mist rises in places from the valleys and surrounds the mountain tops in Jurassic Park like scenes.To the Smokey Mountain Diner for Brekky, another Southern restaurant run entirely by women it seems. It's hard to decide what to order, definitely want a hiker sized meal though, and the Giant Skillet begins to appeal, it's huge and also has lotsa veggies. A bit of a struggle to finish it's so big, good lord how do people eat stuff like this (non-hikers of course!).Out into the early morning sun again, it's already hot and they say it'll be in the 90's today in Hot Springs, maybe they should call it Hot Airs! The sidewalk is marked with Diamonds set into the concrete, very unusual and a departure from the usual white blazes, which don't really work that well in the town. Nice little jaunt down the main, the town reminds of Damascus, VA, only a little smaller if that's possible. It seems very orientated towards recreation, rafting, biking, and hiking. A historical marker by the springs informs that the town was an internment camp for German POW's during WWI, that comes as a shock since there was no fighting on US soil, and you have to ask how German prisoners would have ended up here.It turns out they were mostly civilians who comprised the crews of German commercial ships which had taken cover in American ports when Great Britain declared war on Germany in 1914. Included in the group were members of a German orchestra as well as the crew of the world¢s largest ship at the time, the ¢Vaterland.¢ It seems they lived relatively comfortable lives, at least for POWs. More info on the remarkable story at http://www.visitmadisoncounty.com/who-we-are/town-of-hot-springs/the-german-village-wwi-internment-camp/Well enough musing and enjoying views of the French Broad River, which runs through the town, sooner or later gotta climb up onto the ridge top. The AT follows the river for a bit then swings up towards the ridge, there are nice views and it seems to be a popular day hike, I pass two (a backpacker passing day hikers, hmm) groups of them, one a young couple with a dog, they guy seems anxous to stay in front of this grey haired backpacker, the dog has other ideas and is just ambling along so finally they stop and let me by. The woman comments that "we are just pokey hikers", the problem seems the dog though.The second group is older, they're from Asheville, which they describe as a place people live who wanna hike, can certainly relate to that. The've figured out how to do a circuit, and trundle along behind me until we reach Pump Gap.I seem to be bowling along in fine style, a fire tower at mile 8.2 comes up quickly and there's a nice little spring so I get some water, then rather promptly run out 30 mins later, must be thirstier than I thought!Not a good feeling for sure, another day hiker appears from the North, and very friendly woman who informs that the next shelter is only 20 minutes away, it has water too, great news.The shelter (Spring Mountain) is a classic, built in 1938, it looks like something Myron Avery mighta built and Earl Shaffer stayed in. The spring is nasty, it's a big mud pit, nowhere to put your pack without getting mud all over it, so have to unpack and get my water bladder out, then hold it with one hand and pump with the other, what a nuisance. It's also buggy.Back to the shelter for a bite and a rest with feet up the wall, the gnats seem to be everywhere and then I notice trickles of blood on my legs, some kinda biting insects I guess, so cut short the rest and high tail it outa dodge pursued by all the nasties.To Allen Gap and there's a couple lazing on the ground and munching away, they ask if I'm a thru-hiker. Their names are Speed Demon and Bear Bait and we'll eventually hook up to hike the rest of the section. They're very friendly and I sit down to chat and have a bit even though it's quite close to where I get off the trail for the night. They're headed for the next shelter while I'm only going to the Hemlock Hollow Hostel, another 1.7 miles to the cut off trail.Bear Bait immediately starts talking about how much food he bought in Hot Springs, way too many pounds of the stuff, he's now trying to eat his pack weight down. They're taking it nice and easy on the trail, only about 10 miles a day, stopping everywhere to admire the views, a nice way to do it.They get up and pack up, I'm a little behind and feeling tired and foot sore but manage to catch up, a bit unusual for me to catch thru-hikers but Bear Bait has that huge pack and looks a little ungainly with it, seems to be leaning too far back and gives it an awkward air. I think the gel pack I took at Allen Gap helped, get a bit of a second wind and keep up till we get to the next road crossing, it seems to come up quickly and we part company, I wasn't too sure I'd see them again at that point but turned out OK later on.Gotta follow a road for .7 miles to get to the hostel, they'll shuttle you back though, the way I feel I think I'd rather the shuttle in the evening! It's a great spot by a lovely stream with an overlooking porch, some locals have arrived by car and even though the "Hours" sign indicates it's open, they come back out the door and announce the place is closed....except for a hikers! They look at me and suddenly recognize that I'm a hiker and say "oh, here's a hiker, I guess they're open for him" with a bit of a jealous edge in their voice, and a voice inside says "yes we're open for hikers, come in".It's run by and older couple, look to be in their late 60's, she looks quite tired and seems to do all the work, it takes a while to get checked in so I sit out on the porch admiring the view of the stream and relaxing my feet on the railing. I looked in vain for a sign indicating cold beer, alas none, she keeps a record of your tab on just a sheet of paper in pencil, I order dinner and get an orange juice to tide me over, tastes amazing.Food is OK, ordinarily nothing special, though apparently she has a local rep as a good cook. They have guests for the evening so hang out at their own table chatting away, I'm kinda glad because too tired to really hold a conversation.Head over to the bunkhouse before dinner to get settled in and unpack, take feet down to the creek to bathe them, the water feels great, the bunkhouse has a fridge, microwave and a sink without running water, wonder if I stayed in the wrong one or they just forgot to turn it on. The beds are way too soft, they're sprung by some very soft springs and sag in the middle when you lie on them, very bad for posture. There are hot showers, what a treat, a hot shower the first night on the trail.