Date: 2008-04-16
From: Clingman's Dome

To: Icewater Spring Shelter
Miles today: 11.3
Weather: clear sky

Total miles from Springer: 207.6A lot has happened since my last journal entry. Sunday's hike from Russell Field Shelter to Derrick Knob Shelter was a good hike - not too difficult. Clouds settled over the mountains as we got closer to the shelter and snow began falling - sometimes blowing sideways. That night was VERY cold and although I was warm I slept fitfully. Monday morning we (must have been about 14 hikers) arose to a very cold, white world. Breakfast done, we headed off into falling snow and sleet. All day it snowed or sleeted so that we walked in 2-3" of snow. The night promised to be very cold so after some debate at Double Spring Shelter, 11 of us decided to go for Clingman's Dome then try to get a shuttle into Gatlinburg from that point. Freefall was able to get her mom on the phone and she arranged a pick up by the local outfitter in Gatlinburg. During the 2.5 mile uphill hike to Clingman's Dome we found out the park road from Rt. 441 to Clingman's Dome had been closed so we would have to hike an additional 7 miles in a worsening snow storm and falling temperatures. I got to the parking area at Clingman's Dome with only hiking pants (no long johns) and a tee shirt on along with my rain jacket and knit hat. My feet were wet from walking in snow and ice. Upon starting the long road walk to the point where the van would pick us up I realized I'd have to put on more clothes. I added two more layers of clothing and felt pretty comfortable at that point. Pavement is a HARD surface when you're hiking with a heavy pack on your back so about half the time I walked the shoulder of the road to make things easier on my knees. As promised, Mike was waiting at the entrance to the park and 11 hikers plus their gear, piled in the van. It was as VERY tight fit! Mike skillfully drove us down the snow-covered road toward Gatlinburg. About 2/3 of the way down the winding road the snow changed over to rain and we were treated to spectacular views of half green/half white ridges all enveloped by heavy clouds. We were delivered to Bales Motel off a side street in town and given a GREAT deal on 3 rooms which 11 people settled in to. I roomed with Thinker, 8 Mile Moto and Long Shot. We had 2 queen beds plus a double bed in a small side room and it accommodated us very well. Showers and clean clothes plus a good hot meal more than compensated for the long, hard day. Tuesday all of us stayed in Gatlinburg (Rt. 441 was closed half the day over Newfound Gap where we would re-enter the park and trail). We resupplied our food and equipment and took in the gaudy excesses of Gatlinburg. That night Pic, Freefall, Cookie Monster and Rabbit cooked up a wonderful meal of focaccia bread, Caesar salad, rigatoni and bacon-wrapped steaks! I kicked in some of my Yellow Branch cheese and a bottle of wine from a local winery in Gatlinburg. (While shopping for the wine I stumbled upon a chiropractor's office and got a badly needed adjustment to my spine, hips and shoulders.)Wednesday morning we returned to Pic and Rabbit's room where they had set up fixin's for omelets which each of us cooked ourselves and I must say mine was delicious! Mike came back, this time taking 7 of us to Clingman's Dome to resume the hike. Upon arrival we were treated to clear skies and spectacular views! The only unfortunate circumstance was my camera chose that moment to 'die' so I have no pictures of what was one of the most beautiful vistas I've seen on the trip. I'm hoping to borrow photos from others with me that day. The hike from Clingman's Dome was through stands of Frasier fir - a feast for eye and nose! The smell was not of pine as I expected but an earthy odor. Many huge trees have fallen all along the trail,upturning their root mass with tons of rock and soil attached. We hiked back to Rt. 441 at Newfound Gap. It was sort of strange knowing we were basically hiking the same path as Monday's "forced march" off the mountain since the AT roughly parallels the road from Clingman's Dome to Newfound Gap. Some of us felt the need to retrace our steps and I'm glad I did. Tonight I'm 3 miles north of Newfound Gap at Icewater Spring shelter with about 25 other hikers.   Some I know - some I don't. At least the shelter is full so I can tent (I prefer sleeping in my own tent to being crammed in a shelter with all manner of snorers). So far, although it's pretty chilly, I am warm and have more wiggle room of my own in the tent. Later . . . Alec