Date: 2017-05-11
From: Moreland Gap Shelter 

To: Shook Branch Road/Boots Off Hostel 
Miles today: 14.8
Weather: moderate rain

5/11Moreland Gap Shelter to Shook Branch Road/Boots Off Hostel14.8 milesTotal miles: 426.9I guess I was pretty tuckered out by the 18.4 miles yesterday, because I didn't wake up until 6:15.  I hit the trail at 7:30. I knew I couldn't make it the 24 miles to the next shelter, and the area around Watauga Dam is closed to camping due to bear activity. Dave, from Doe River Hiker Hostel, had recommended Boots Off Hostel, but the guidebook didn't list where it was located. I really wanted to hike over Pond Mountain today, so I decided to try to call Boots Off during the day to see where they were located and if I could get there from the trail. While hiking this morning, I asked Redwood what his plans were, and he told me he was staying at Boots Off.  He then told me they were located only 0.1 miles from the trail after you are finished with Pond Mountain. Problem solved!  Today was quite a hike. The morning at first consisted of pretty typical woods hiking. I passed an old, dilapidated barn just before Dennis Cove Road. At the road, I met Yard Dart, who was passing out trail magic in the form of cheese sandwiches, fresh fruit, cupcakes, and drinks. In fact, I had met him at Highway 19E but hadn't heard his story. He and his wife, Miss Bonnie, began a thru hike last month. He injured his calf and is unable to hike. So he is following Miss Bonnie, providing trail magic to all hikers he can, all the way to Maine. Apparently, Miss Bonnie is a slow hiker, so I might be benefiting from Yard Dart's generosity for months!  After leaving Dennis Cove Road, I began the hike to Laurel Falls. The trail to the Falls consisted of hundreds of irregular stone steps that lead steeply down to the falls. It was very slow, difficult hiking, and I was again thankful for my trekking poles in case I slipped. The Falls are huge and simply amazing. I spent some time there just watching the sheer amount of water cascading down the falls. The Laurel River is quite deep and wide at this point, and the trail away from the falls began with a walk right along the base of the bluffs, mere inches from the water. It was quite a scramble. Another hiker asked if I saw the size of the fish, and I responded that I had been too busy trying not to fall in. After leaving the falls, I ate lunch near a large foot bridge over the Laurel River and then commenced the hike up Pond Mountain. Pond is classic AT.  It consists of a 1,750 foot change in elevation accomplished by a 2.6 mile walk up followed immediately by a 2.8 mile walk down. It was a relatively challenging climb with lots of rocks and steep trail. There were some nice views of the houses below, and I saw a cemetery way down in a valley that looked like the one I passed by yesterday. I'm not sure if it's the same one or not. Another sure sign that spring is advancing: the rhododendron are starting to bloom.  After reaching the road at the bottom of the mountain, sure enough there was a sign pointing to the Boots Off Hostel. Jim, the owner, is having issues with state licensing agencies over water issues, so no one is allowed to stay in the very nice bunk houses he has built. Instead, I pitched my tent on a nicely graded spot and went up to the kitchen area to visit with other hikers. Jim shuttled us into Hampton where we resupplied as necessary and then went to eat. I gave McDonald's a try and bought two Big Mac meals. I wasn't greedy, though. I told the cashier I only needed one cup. We all got take out and ate around a campfire back at the hostel. There was a big fire, and we all had a good time. I was one of the first to decide to call it a night around 10:00, when it started to rain. That sent everyone to their tents. It thundered for awhile before settling into a steady rain, which is forecast to last two days. It looks like I'll have some wet hiking into Damascus, which I plan on reaching in three days. Jim provides a free continental breakfast starting at 7:00 tomorrow morning, of which I will certainly take advantage. I really hope he is able to work out his issues with the state soon, because he is building up quite a place with great accessibility to the trail.