Date: 2012-01-17
From: Cold Springs Shelter

To: Nantahala Outdoor Center
Miles today: 11.5
Weather: light rain

As usual I woke before dawn and got packed up. I knew rain was coming in and hoped to beat the worst of it. At least I wanted to be past the Jump-Off, the place of fear and shame in 2010. Part of me was looking forward to seeing it without all the snow and ice, and part of me was dreading it. Would it really be as bad as I remembered? Could I redeem myself? Another motivation to get me on the Trail early was that Sherpa Dave and Goldberry had said that they might meet me for a late lunch at NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center). That was enough to get me moving extra early; it is always good to see them. Happily the sky was still clear, so no rain yet. However shortly after I set out the clouds rolled in. I tried to remember the closing line of the short story, "The Nine Billion Names of God" (I think) - "... And quietly, without any fuss at all, the stars were going out" - or something like that. In short order the world was gray. Even though the sun had risen everything was still dim. The hike down to Tellico Gap was uneventful, and soon I was headed up Wesser Bald. By now the wind had picked up quite a bit and was blowing chill. Near the top I checked to make sure that my pack cover was securely fastened to make sure it didn't get ripped right off the pack. There were no views from the top because of the low clouds, so after catching my breath I headed right on down and down. I was getting hungry and thirsty so I planned a brief stop at Wesser Shelter. I had water with me, but I had collected it in the dark. When I had some on the way up Wesser I had a look in the water bottle. I had a few swallows left before it would start getting pretty chewy. The sight took away my desire to have any more of that water. I love hiking. I love hiking. Unfortunately I didn't find the water source at Wesser Shelter. I could have spent more time looking for it, but the chill in the air, the threat of rain, and the temptations of a burger and beer at NOC got me back on the trail quickly. I bumped along the little ridge I remembered. I kept watching for signs of the Jump-Off with its rocks, a tight right turn, more rocks and a narrow trail. Finally I recognized it. There. It's not as bad as I remembered it. Must have been all the ice and snow. There isn't nearly the abyss that I see in my recollection of that day. In no time I was over it and feeling pleased with myself. Buoyed, I moved right along until...wait...what's this? Oh, no! *That* wasn't the Jump-Off. *This* is. It wasn't as difficult this time, but it still took me a long time to get over the rocks and narrow places. I found myself, as I often do when I am fearful of my footing, of twisting and turning, trying to find a way to negotiate the descent. As usual, I finally exclaim in frustration, "This is *stupid*. A *real* hiker could do this." I had just reached the bottom of what I considered the tricky area, when Sherpa Dave showed up, camera in hand. I was happy to see him but glad he hadn't showed up a little earlier to catch me embarrassingly awkward position. Goldberry was only a moment or two behind. Together we all headed down toward the NOC. Sherpa Dave and Goldberry were hiking strongly, but I was flagging as we went along. When they realized I was out of water, except the dregs of my very dirty water bottle, they shared what they had. My knees were complaining that they had been working way too hard lately. Goldberry graciously offered to have Sherpa Dave carry my pack for me. I assumed whe was just ribbing Dave, but later when she renewed the offer, I figured that I was probably slowing them down too much as my knees slowed me down. So for the last mile and a half, Sherpa Dave carried my pack for me. Unencumbered, I felt as though I were flying. Soon we were at River's End enjoying a well-deserved lunch. Some leisurely time later, Sherpa Dave and Goldberry left, and I checked in for the night. Basecamp was closed at that time, so Doc Rockett had made a reservation for one of the motel-style rooms. I would have been happy enough at basecamp, but I sure didn't complain about the luxury of a regular motel room. Running water, a real bed, a coffee maker in the common room. A full, contented tummy from the large, delicious lunch.... Ahh. Civilization. It does have some advantages.