Date: 2014-07-18
From: Franconia Notch (North Woodstock, NH)

To: South Twin Mountain, NH
Miles today: 13.8

I started the day having a nice breakfast with my mother and Robin in Lincoln, NH. Being a planner by nature and always thinking about food I also picked up a huge roast beef hero at a local deli to pack for today's lunch. This will be my reward for climbing the almost 4000 feet to the summit of Lafayette Mountain located on the northern end of the Franconia Ridge. We drove out to the Liberty Springs trailhead around 8 am. After being dropped off, I headed about one mile into the park to pick up the AT where I had got off yesterday. It is a little tricky getting on and off the AT in the notch but I figured it out. As always with a town visit the hike starts with an ascent out of a valley and in the White Mountains this meant a serious climb. The first climb was about 3000 feet over 3 miles up to Little Haystack Mt and the Franconia Ridge trail. The climb although steep did not have a lot of hand and foot climbing sections so I made good time up. At the top I hit the ridge trail and headed north. The trail initially starts in the trees so you cannot see anything but then it opens up as you climb further to the rocky face of Mt Lincoln. The views here were spectacular showing many of the mountains I climbed the two prior days as well as the expanse of the notch below and the rock cliffs. As I walked the ridge trail over Mt Lincoln toward the higher Mt Lafayette it was like being atop a tall bridge with sheer drops to either side. The feeling of being at such a height was invigorating. I reached Mt Lafayette around noon having hiked about 6 miles and climbing up 4000 feet (see photos). The views here were incredible and there were many day hikers on the peak soaking it all in. The day hikers took a more direct route up the mountain which was about half the AT route distance. The one thing about the AT is it is never direct. It runs you up the ridges hitting as many peaks as possible along the way making for a unique but more rigorous trek.   Well now that I made it to Lafayette it was time to pull out the one pound monster deli sandwich I carried! I ate to my hearts desire leaning back on some rocks staring out to the eastern horizon where the mountains I will cross over the next four days laid. It is going to be a real workout up and down these mountains.   After my lunch it was a steady, sometimes steep, 1500 ft descent to Garfield pond. As I hiked down clouds would wisp overhead just above me (see photo). Then it was up again 1000 feet over Mt Garfield and then down again 1000 feet to the Galehead Hut and valley. Oh by the way, the hike between Mt Lafayette and the hut was some of the most strenuous hiking so far on the AT. I put in the elevation changes to also provide a sense of the demanding nature of the hike. The hut was a busy place. I saw only a few folks on the trail from Mt Lafayette to the hut, but at the hut there must have been over 20 people. Note there are often many other trails to the huts that are not as tough or as long a route as the AT. It was Friday evening so I anticipated the hut would be fully booked but I checked anyway. It was full. Since I am a thru hiker they offered me the option to work for stay where I can help with chores during the evening and morning in exchange for dinner and breakfast leftovers (which word on the trail is a lot of food) and sleep on the hut floor (essentially under the hut roof).   I thanked them but declined as I wanted to start early tomorrow and working would mean I would not likely get on the trail until after 9 am. I often get my best walking in before 9 am while it is cool and my legs are fresh. So I tanked up with water in the hopes I would come upon a great campsite on the upcoming peak.   When I departed I struck up a conversation with Rammy and Slow & Steady. They are walking the AT over a two year period. It was good visiting with them as they knew a number of fellow thru hikers I also knew. Around 6 pm I said my goodbyes and I headed up the steep trail (1500 ft climb) to the South Twin Mt peak. When I reached the peak it was a large rock bald with a number of flat spots. It was now getting close to 7:00 and the next known campsite was still upward of 2 hrs away. So I decided I would cowboy camp on the peak since the weather forecast was for clear sky's and no rain. Another benefit was that the peak had unobstructed 360 degree views enabling me to watch the sunset beside the Franconia Ridge which I just crossed today and in the morning I would be able to see the sunrise over Mt Washington which is the ridge I will cross in two days. So after I ate I sat and watched the sunset (see photos). Then I laid out my gear on the rock which was slightly lower then the tree tops to help keep out of the wind which had picked up. It quickly got nippy when the sun set and I was grateful I had brought some of my winter gear. To try to keep the dew off my sleeping bag and gear I actually rolled out my tent (not setting it up) and simply threw all my gear and I slipped in it like a burrito. I just began to doze off when I heard someone come up the peak. I looked out and there was thru hiker Long-haul Trucker. I had met Long-Haul a few days ago at the Hikers Welcome Hostel. He also checked out the hut and decided to push on further for a campsite. He set himself up nearby and we visited as he made himself some dinner. It was dark and the stars were out in full by the time we both hit the hay. I also saw one satellite streak by the stationary stars. It was pretty cool. It was a very long day even though the number of miles I put in was generally low. Hence I am finding out quickly that the White Mts are as tough as everyone has said. I quickly dozed off looking forward to tomorrow mornings sunrise.