Date: 2005-09-14
From: Katahdin Stream Campground

To: Mt. Katahdin, Baxter Peak
Miles today: 5.2
Weather: few clouds

We're up at 5:35. Since we're staying two nights here, we don't have as much to pack up in the morning - just stuff most things into the car. While eating breakfast at 6:10, Yard Sale & Vapor walked by. So they'll be the first to greet the summit this morning.It sure seems warm this morning but I still wore long sleeves and spandex while packing fleece sweater, wool hat, gloves, and rain gear. But it does appear clear. Who knows what the summit will bring?Off by 6:30 for our 5.2 mile 4,177 foot trek. And since the first two miles fly by rather easily, I wonder: what's the steep part like and maybe I don't need these warm clothes. Harrier's been up this trail before (a little over one year ago on his 2004 thru-hike) but when we first entered an open area plush with blueberries, his announcement that we were already at treeline proved premature. But as he admitted, his 2004 summit hike was in thick fog and he was on Cloud 9 anyway back then.Katahdin Stream Falls were scenic - I'll pay more attention on the descent. As the ascent began to steepen with increasing degree of difficulty, I pointed out "we can't be near treeline yet- look at those birches." Thus far, this was like any typical Maine ascent.Yet we're still below treeline when some of the steps required to advance become problematic, such as:"Where do I place my feet?" "Should I go left or right?""Should I use the poles? No, toss them ahead"And then we emerge from treeline:"All right- time to get rid of the poles""I can't reach that rock this way. Oh, there's an iron rung""Damn, that rock's wet. Got to crawl or roll on it- can't stand on it - it's too steeply angled""Here's a (very small) handhold on your left. Grab it and put your right toe in that (very small) foothold on the right""Got to boost myself up but that's awfully high""It looks easier around the left. Oh no, that goes off into air""Gee, that iron rung looks awfully small for my big foot""Is that a false summit up there?"And most prevalent: "How in the h*** am I going to get down?"It was fun. It was exhilarating. It was tiring. It was hot. It was painstaking. It was slow. It was rewarding. It was draining.About halfway up the steep part, LiveStrong and DandyLion passed us. While we were resting, a young dayhiker named Rafael caught up. He was having some misgivings about hiking alone and stayed with us the rest of the day. A New Yorker from Long Island, he enjoyed all kinds of outdoor activities including kayaking as well as hiking.So progress, at least as conventionally measured, had ground to a crawl but we were encouraged as our goals loomed visibly - not just Baxter Peak which drew close enough that we could see figures on top, but also The Tableland where the terrain would level off. And when we reached The Tableland, a sense of relief and accomplishment surged through me. Henceforth, the Trail's open rolling nature over a rocky landscape reminded me of the Presidentials. Throughout the ascent, Northern Harrier had stayed ahead of me with his long legs affording obvious advantages in negotiating the high steps required. On The Tableland, we could and did walk almost side-by-side as we neared Thoreau Spring. Supposedly seasonal, the spring gushed enough water to create a small stream on the Trail. I can't believe it's still so warm; even the winds, while steady, are warm in this open area above 4,000'. Views are somewhat limited by the haze but we still saw peaks far and near including The Owl which we had used to gauge our progress; it was now well beneath us. After Thoreau Spring, we're less than a mile with easy walking. As we drew within a quarter-mile, I quickened my pace to the point of almost jogging. The hikers on top were visible, now the cairn marking the high point, now the sign. I had left Harrier and Rafael considerably behind now and was practically racing. And at 10:45, I touched the sign. I'm on the summit of Katahdin!Exchanged congratulations with everyone- Yard Sale, Vapor, LiveStrong, DandyLion, Draggin, Dead Animal, and others. That they were thruhikers and I was a long-term section hiker mattered not. "Way to stick with it" said LiveStrong.With Harrier's arrival, we undertook the photo-taking rituals after which it was time for celebration with liquid refreshment. Opening a small bottle of sparkling wine brought for the occasion, I betrayed my inexperience as the spray not only squirted me but Vapor who was next to me. Someone said it was like winning the World Series. So of course I offered Vapor some swigs. I nearly choked on my first swig; I guess I'm still too excited!We finished the wine (gave a swig to Cheshire Cat who had now finished his 3rd AT hike) and ate lunch in the warm sun - I never needed another layer. I reveled in the scene up here; the haze limiting our views did nothing to diminish the experience. Northern Harrier was at least as excited; he's been on Katahdin many times but today was his best weather day.More people were arriving, mostly day hikers coming up other trails. The thruhikers began to drift away, saying goodbyes to each other. Something that happens every year; hikers who in many cases have hiked together or in proximity for 5-6 months are all of a sudden going their separate ways. I exchanged well wishes with Vapor, Yard Sale and the others I knew. Among the many positive memories from this hike was how the young thruhikers I had met in these 4 weeks had accepted me - a middle-aged section hiker - as part of the their community.We started down about 11:45. Taking our time with frequent breaks, the descent lasted exactly 5 hours. That¢s only one MPH and of course, the Tableland and lower 1 12 miles were easy. So as expected, the steep section featuring the handholds, iron rungs, etc. was painstaking. However, Katahin proved to be an extremely rare instance where the descent was easier than the ascent, albeit slow. Northern Harrier & Rafael did not use their poles but I found mine highly useful in some portions where they gave me a ¢third leg.¢ But in many other portions, it was simply easier to chuck the poles and either use the hands between rocks parallel bars-style to boost myself down or simply sit at the edge of a boulder where my dangling legs were within 1-2 feet of the next step and jump down. Here, gravity worked in my favor; going up boulders like this had required much more exertion. Maybe it¢s a matter of expectation; the descent failed to confirm my dread formed from the ascent.We lingered by Katahdin Stream Falls and enjoyed the still-ripe high bush blueberries. Rafael joined us at our campsite briefly to take advantage of our proximity to Katahdin Stream. As was the case last night, the water temperature was not conducive to a long foot-soaking ritual. The air temperature on the other hand remains unbelievably warm for a Maine September. Tonight¢s front bringing tomorrow¢s rain is upon us with the heavy, warm air. Looks like we made the absolute right decision in summitting today.All right, I¢ve ascended Katahdin but another day remains; before this time tomorrow, I¢ll have attained 2,000 miler status. After 28 years, it¢s taking a while to sink in.