Date: 2007-03-15
From: Big Cedar Mountain

To: Bull Gap
Miles today: 10.7

It's weird, when I get into that Zen trance when hiking, like how many babies can fit in the tire, when my thoughts tend to wonder about all aspects of my life and what has brought me to where I am now, and also how beautiful the scenery really is in Georgia, I do lose a sense of direction, sorta, and can see how hikers from time to time lose the trail. When I get into this zone, usually it takes a few miles to begin forgetting about the sweat pouring down my face or the pain in my heels from those god-damn boots (can't wait to finally switch them in Harper's Ferry). I sorta take advantage that where I am actually IS the Appalachian Trail.There are lots of other trails that intersect it, and usually when I pop out of the trance - I have no sight of a white blaze. So I go a few hundred yards. Still no white blaze. I got a little further. Nope.Just as I'm about to backtrack, AH! there's a blaze. All right, onward I go!This has happened about 5 or 6 times to me thus far and it happened to me like twice today as I was descending Blood Mountain.They say it was named for a war between two Native American - I mean redskin - tribes that happened to occur on that very spot, and it ran the mountain red with blood. I think it's named for the bloody feet hikers have after going up, then down the stupid thing.Going up actually wasn't that bad. For me, that initial hike up Springer Mountain on the Approach Trail still takes the cake. It was just about 8 or 9 very long, gradual switchbacks, all uphill, and it could be tiring. I didn't even need any water, though, until I reached the paramount, whereupon I drank deeply of my draught and admired the incredible view. I would have taken photos, but alas, my camera had run its batteries dry. But it was crazy - the guidebook says you could see Springer from there, which isn't such a surprise as it's probably only 10 or 15 real miles (as opposed to trail miles) away.Some college kids were atop a rock smoking the reefer and coughing conspicuously and saying how the mountain should be called "Blunt Mountain." Ho ho! Ah, the wit of dumb jock stoners.Finally, after hydrating myself and fixing my feet, I ambled down toward Neels Gap, a rather small milestone along this trail given that about half of all prospective thru-hikers supposedly quit here or earlier. The way down was significantly tougher than up - for one thing, it stretched 2.5 miles - that's a long way downhill on a trail. Another thing - it was all rocks. In the end, though tired, I was happy, and after a shower at the Walasi-Yi Center, I was ready for more hiking.I spent way too much money at Mountain Crossings at Walasi-Yi, but I think it needed to be done, mostly, and I got a free shower out of it. After a spaghetti dinner, I decided to head a little further rather than spend another $15 for a bunk in a hostel that reeked pretty bad. So now I'm camped out a mile past Neels Gap, testing out my bivy in the rain. I'm still dry, so I'm happy.Also, it's occurred to me that from time to time I pronounce words with the hint of a Southern drawl. Now I'm not gung-ho hating the South like my friend Will the transcriber [transcribers note: "Hello."], but I do prefer the North. But if I were born and bred here, I'd definitely be a true "suthen" hill William! (smiley)Oh! and I almost forgot! I passed an old dude today who knew that Bob Neil fellow. He said that Bob starts off slow and gets slower as the day progresses. Ha!