Date: 2016-08-30
From: Vandeventer Shelter

To: Boots Off Hostel, Shook Branch Road
Miles today: 9.2
Weather: clear sky

I did not sleep well, and I was not looking forward to hiking for several hours without taking a break. But at least my pack would be lighter with less water to carry. Despite all the problems yesterday, and the very sore muscles today, I was VERY glad I cameled up and carried the extra water.I checked out the beautiful view and discovered that I was way above the clouds, which had settled over the entire lake. Which meant that I could be hiking through fog through bear country!!! As I packed up the clouds below began to thin. It was a beautiful day and the fog was burning off quickly.The AT stayed up on the spine of the ridge for a long time. Occasionally I could catch views of the lake between the trees. And there was a delicious cooling breeze. After a while the right knee got with the program. The pack felt good without the extra water, and I was doing well. Unfortunately I eventually had to stop and go to the bathroom. I decided to stop on some steps on a really steep portion with lots of switchbacks. I thought I would be able to see a bear coming from above or below, and the steepness should make it difficult for the bear to come at me from side to side. Actually, I was cautious but not all that concerned. While I had my pack off and good cell reception I made a few phone calls.I called Black Bear Resort and made a reservation. I also called Bob Peoples at Kincora Hiking Hostel and left a message inviting him to dinner. There was so much written about him on the walls at the Vandeventer Shelter that I wanted to meet the man and talk with him about his trail work. I am a volunteer crew leader with American Hiking Society and I thought he could give me some helpful tips about trail crews. I also wanted to ask some questions about the downed trees and why there are not privies in Tennessee. (I later discovered that Bob is in Spain hiking the El Camino, so unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to meet him.)The AT goes over the Watauga Dam. In that area the trail is on a paved road for a while both before and after the dam. Polar Bear told me that it probably would be safe for me to take a break along the road there, if I really had to. I really did need a break. The sensor on my CGM needs to be changed every 7 days, and today was day 7. I would not have a new sensor until I picked up my resupply box. So I needed to work on tricking the CGM into thinking that I did change the sensor.The AT tucked back into the woods. I passed the turn off for the shelter without stopping. I saw several signs warning that the area was closed to everyone with the exception of AT hikers. If the bear and her cubs were hanging around and defending the shelter, I did not need to go in there.I saw absolutely no signs of bears along the AT - no scat, no tracks, and no torn apart decaying logs. What I did see was lots of trash in fire rings at steal camping sites and trash along the shoreline. No wonder there is a bear problem!!!!There was supposed to be water along the AT just after the shelter, but the water source was bone dry. Despite my carrying all that water through the downed trees up to Vandeventer, I was starting to run a little low on water. The AT followed the side of the mountains surrounding part of the lake. I could see the water below, but could not find any to fill my bottles. I saw a few people out on the lake in small boats, just relaxing, and I thought of the boats my husband and I have enjoyed together over the years.Finally I got to the Shook Branch Recreation Area. Per the AWOL guide, there would be water and a restroom. I was also hoping for a soda machine. I REALLY wanted a Diet Coke. In the picnic area near the beach I found a spigot. I was not sure whether the water was potable, so I filtered it. There was all sorts of trash and partially eaten food under and around the picnic tables and grills.   Then I went to the restroom area. I found a nice covered pavilion with a few picnic tables and the restrooms, but no soda machine. I did, however, find an outlet. So while my cell phone charged I took a break and enjoyed a bottle of water. I also watched people sneek into the park. They either went through without depositing money in the self-pay station, or they parked up on the road and snuck through the trees to the park. The charge per car was only $2.00.My plan was to hike on to at least the Pond Flats campsite. But I was really not looking forward to that long, long climb so late in the day. I was still really sore from yesterday, and I was beat from lack of sleep. As I was leaving the recreation area I saw a flyer tacked to a tree for the Boots Off Hostel. I decided to call to see if they were open and had room for me. I was very willing to call it a day. The hostel was right on Shook Branch Road and just off the AT.The hostel is brand new and a work in progress, but very accommodating. I stayed in what they call the "Tent Cabin," which is basically a very large 2 room Coleman car camping tent. A cot and a pillow, along with a shower and light breakfast are provided for $20. I was given a cold bottle of water immediately after I arrived, which was very refreshing.I visited with 3 work-for-stay guys who were headed back out that evening, along with some other folks and the owner, Jim, while I made and ate a Mountain House meal. I was getting my resupply tomorrow and needed to eat up my food.After a nice shower to get the trail sweat, grime, and stench off, I was really looking forward to that cot. Unfortunately the ground was not level, and every time I rolled over, I slid down the cot. I finally moved the cot around to where I just rolled to one side. But there were also barking dogs and a large street light shining on the tent. So once again, I did not sleep well.The AT is calling. Seriously, I need some sleep!!!