Date: 2004-08-17
From: Eliza Brook Shelter

To: Franconia Notch, I-93/US3
Miles today: 8.8
Weather: scattered clouds

Today was one of those days where the mood changed dramatically and our luck turned for the better as the clouds suddenly cleared and the mountains made an appearance.It wasn't raining this morning but the downpour last night left the trail a raging brook. I had to cross Eliza Brook twice, a tricky task when all the rocks for hopping are submerged. Somehow I managed by bushwhacking upstream a bit.Then the trail goes up the backside of South Kinsman, a less frequented path and therefore fairly rough. I had a steep, slow ascent between large boulders. However, I am much happier to be a northbounder than a southbounder dealing with this.When I got to the top, I started feeling depressed. Normally, South Kinsman has a great view of Franconia Ridge but I could only see clouds. The hiking was arduous, more so than normal because everything was very wet. I had worked so hard to get to this point. What I thought would rejuvenate me left me drained and saddened. I had a strong desire to get quickly through the Whites and be done with them. They are wonderful when it is clear but a pain in the ass when it is raining. Like some thru-hikers, I was looking at them as an obstacle for reaching Maine.Goose and K-dog caught up with me at the Kinsman Campsite. They started an hour after me and had already overtaken me. That depressed me even more. The caretaker at Kinsman offered a foreboding forecast of rain, rain, and more rain. He said that it has been raining all summer. I had to leave before I started crying.Along the Fishing Jimmy trail, maintenance crew were moving rocks and logs around to cut the flow of water down the trail. It looks like nasty work. I actually caught up with Goose and K-dog at Lonesome Lake Hut. The clouds were clearing now.They were griping about how the Whites slowed them down and they need to get some long miles in today.As we sat there, a guy named Dan came into the hut and asked us if we were thru-hikers. He said he was very interested in hiking the trail himself in a few years and wanted to offer us a free night stay in his camper and breakfast. He also would drive us to Woodstock for re-supply and a visit to the post office. As we thought about it, the sun came out and I could see Franconia Ridge from the hut porch. I called Goose over to see how spectacular the mountains are. He was very impressed. It was the first view we had of the mountain range.The mountains are awesome and beautiful. The AT has made me appreciate their magnitude.We decided to accept Dan's offer since it would cost us to stay at the next campsite. We met Dan at the base of the AT trail about an hour later after we flew down the Cascade Trail to I-93. The only obstacle was crossing the Cascade River twice--once again a tricky maneuver when the waters are high.While we waited for our ride, I laid out all my stuff to dry. One of my water bottles leaked inside my bag. By now, my mood had improved. So had the boys'. We all just laughed at our misfortunes.Dan picked us up and took us to town. We visited the post office, got ripped off by Peg's, a restaurant, and had a few beers at the Woodstock Inn outside. As I sat there, who should show up and say hello but my friend Annie, her Mom and Dad, and her son Bill. Unfortunately, I missed seeing her sister Sarah (saw her in Cheshire) and her brother Dave who took off in a separate car. I had left a message on Dave's cell phone when I was in Glencliff saying I would be in Woodstock on Tuesday. It was a long shot, but they found me. It was great to see them, albeit only for a short while. After they took off, we headed back to Lafayette Campground where Dan kept his pop-up camper. We built a fire and hung out till very late offering advice to Dan about his future hike and drinking beers. I think he related to the guys more than me because I am hiking the trail in a leisurely six months and they are hiking it in a little over four months. Dan wants to also hike it as quickly as possible.He couldn't believe that none of us use or carry deodorant. He said he couldn't do that. We assured him he would not miss it. Dan let the three of us sleep in his camper while he slept in his truck. It was going to be a cold night but promises to be a clear day tomorrow. It is amazing how a little bit of sun can cheer you up.