Date: 2015-04-30
From: Greasy Creek Friendly

To: Doll Flats, NC/TN
Miles today: 23.6

By far the most difficult day on the trail so far, both mentally and physically. The terrain and weather would test me, and I would respond, though in a stupid way, with my longest day so far with just under 24 miles. I needed a big day in order to stay on schedule, and I was tested with every mile.Burnsides and I didn't get to sleep at the Greasy Creek Friendly until around ~12:00am last night. The typical 9:00pm quiet time that's respected on the trail sorta went out the window. I slept well, but simply not enough, and as 7:00am rolled around, I was ready to get some miles in despite still being tired. I took care of my usual morning chores, though abbreviated due to not camping. I settled my tab with Connie, thanked her for the wonderful stay as she busily prepared coffee and breakfast for other hikers. I seriously don't think the lady ever sleeps; during my 18 hours there, I observed her cooking, non-stop cleaning, on her roof cleaning out her chimney, doing laundry, running hikers into town for miscellaneous errands, and catering to all of the hikers that stayed or at least dropped by for a few hours as they passed through. She has done this daily since 2002. The lady is incredible.I shared my plans with Burnsides who, still a little under the weather, had plans to hit the trail later in the morning. He still hopes to reach our designated rallying point by Sunday as well, but knows his health must come first. At 8:30am, I was heading out of Greasy Creek Gap and would be continuing on the trail by 8:45am. Today would be my first completely solo day as I wouldn't pass another NoBo hiker until well into the afternoon. It was a music kind of day and headphones were in immediately. Today's goal was to clear Roan Mountain and/or get as far as my legs would carry me before bad weather set in. This would hold true for at least half of the day.This section of the trail is known for it's handful of scenic areas and I'm happy to say it didn't disappoint. Past Clyde Smith Shelter, the first overlook would come 3 miles in at Little Rock Knob, a rock outcropping allowing views to the south and west. I took a few moments to snap a couple pictures, get in a quick prayer, and was soon continuing on towards Roan. Approaching from the south and west, Roan wasn't like the 6,000-footers in the Smokies where Clingman's Dome was surrounded by other large mountains, disguising the elevation gain. Roan Mountain sits on it's own as if it bullied it's way to it's current location. I could see the mountain towering above during the entire morning as I meandered my way closer; I was well aware of what I'd be traversing by the time I actually began the climb. After passing through Hughes Gap, the terrain immediately grew steep as I zigzagged up the many switchbacks leading to the summit. Once past Ash Gap, the terrain switched into another spruce forest, making the trail seem very cramped as I climbed along boulders and the sun faded out due to the thickness of the trees above. Roan Mountain, as Connie informed me, is known as "3 Snicker Hill" as most hikers break take several times for additional snacks since the climb takes closer to 2 hours to complete. I wouldn't break until I was over the summit and stumbled past an old brick chimney standing next to the trail at 6,144ft, a remnant of the rich history on the mountain. I grabbed a quick picture, my first Snickers, and continued on, unaware that I'd actually already summited Roan.I sang aloud to my music for the majority of the day, passing no one going in either direction. All I can say, Roan, is that sign, sealed, delivered, I'm yours. I exited the forest into Carvers Gap, TN where a nearby road sign announces you're in North Carolina, reminding me that I was still moving along the ridge line that composes the state line. Continuing out of Carvers Gap, I would begin moving uphill towards what would become a series of balds providing excellent 360-degree views of Tennessee and North Carolina. I would first reach the summit of Round Bald, topping out at 5,818ft where, though drenched in sunlight, I would notice several nearby pockets of rain rolling along the nearby mountains. One pocket slowly passed over what I'd soon realize was Roan Mountain behind me, and another passed just north of me. I felt like I was being awarded with this island of sunlight for only me to enjoy. I grabbed a few pictures at the summit, threw on my rain gear just in case, and continued along the ride to the next bald, Jane Bald, and the one behind it that I assumed was Roan Mountain. During this stretch I spoke with a SoBo section hiker who corrected me which I thought was great since that meant the most difficult part of my trek today was complete - or so I thought.Soon after Jane Bald, as I made my way towards the summit of Grassy Ridge Bald at 5,900ft, the first round of weather finally caught up to me. Expecting rain, I was surprised when tiny white bills of ice (picture dippin' dots) began bouncing all around me, quickly covering the trail in a white, crunchy coat. It only last ~20-30 minutes, the sun would return, and I would soon find myself dry and in good spirits, assuming the weather forecast had been blown like yesterday. I passed by Pathfinder, a girl I met yesterday, and we exchanged comments regarding the brief icing, me trying to catch Moosehead, and the fact that I was lugging around a 2-liter of Coke in my bag as a reward for the day I had planned. A soda-lover herself, I said I would save her some when we met again at Overmountain Shelter, only ~3 miles ahead where I assumed I might find Moosehead. The weather had returned to being sunny and warm and I coveted the ~3 miles in no time.Overmountain Shelter, an old 3-story barn converted into a shelter, is nestled in Yellow Mountain Gap, an important spot during the Recolutionary War years that soldiers moving east used. The barn itself sits in a clearing just below Grassy Ridge Bald and overlooks a vast valley with towering mountains on either side. Breathtaking. I was a little disappointed when I found out Moosehead must've continued and wasn't there. I took a few pictures, looked at the towering mountains nearby that my guidebook told me I'd have to climb over, and sighed. I threw my pack back on and was heading on. Unfortunately it meant no shared Coke for Pathfinder, but more for me instead. I lugged it around all day, anyways, which I find an acceptable time to be greedy.Immediately out of Yellow Mountain Gap, the trail rises ~800ft at nearly a 45-degree angle. I would've liked to get a picture of this part as reference, but I couldn't justify stopping my momentum to do so. Head down, body hunched forward, I climbed. I passed a few more SoBo hikers where I inquired about the whereabouts of a tall, scruffy hiker wearing a kilt. They had all seen him at some point earlier, but always "over the next mountain." I said thanks, kicked myself, and moved on. As I summited Little Hump Mountain, I began to realize my luck with the weather was running out as gray clouds and rain obscured most of the mountains to my north and west. I didn't want to get stuck on an exposed bald during inclement weather so I pushed on towards Hump Mountain. Although Hump Mountain only stands ~100ft higher than Little Hump, in a span of ~2 miles between summits, you must drop ~500ft into Bradley Gap, before climbing ~600ft back up. Approaching the climb out of Bradley Gap is intimidating. Straight up the side of a ridge, you can see the AT meandering it's way above and any hiker that may be heading up or down.Passing through Bradley Gap, the approaching weather pushed sustained winds of ~20-25mph through the gap, pushing me off balance during my entire climb along the ridge. I felt as though I were moving at a snails pace as my legs began to feel the strain of the previous ~20 miles at this point, and I would need to take a few brief stops on the way up to catch my breath. At the exact moment I was passing over the summit at 5,587ft, my luck ran out and the weather opened up on me. What began as another round of light ice pellets would soon turn into a cloud-covered, wind-howling event the caused the temperature to drop quickly and leave me stumbling along the summit and following ridge in something just shy of a drunken stupor. Only able to see ~50ft in front of me, and feeling sandblasted by ice pellets, I had no choice but to keep going to get off of the exposed ridge. It would take nearly ~30 minutes of teeth-chattering, frozen-handed hiking to finally find myself beginning to head down. What I would eventually discover was only ~2 miles from Hump Mountain summit to my current location at Doll Flats campground, it would take me nearly an hour and a half to cover this stretch as my mind and body hit their wall for the day.I limped into camp, only 2 other hikers here at the time, and wanted nothing more than disappear into my tent. It would take nearly half an hour with frozen hands to finally set up my tent. I crawled in, changed into dry clothes, and burrowed deep into my sleeping bag for an hour, unable to think or do anything else. Eventually feeling in my hands would return and I'd immediately take care of what I stupidly put off nearly all day - eating. Too cold and tired to cook, I shoved Snickers, honey buns, and granola into my mouth and began in on my 2-liters of Coke. Though I had hoped to be sharing some with Moosehead tonight, it was still very much enjoyed and deserved after the day I had. More rain continues to fall this evening, but it seems a world away as I lie snuggly in my tent, happy to have it behind me.Doll Flats campground sits right along the NC/TN border and is actually the last point the trail passes through North Carolina. As I step on the trail in the morning, I conclude my second state and look ahead to mile 400 tomorrow afternoon.