Date: 2006-07-04
From: Franconia Notch, NH

To: Galehead Hut
Miles today: 13.0
Weather: broken clouds

Day 120 I'm up early at the condo. My early routine is programmed into my brain, I guess. Believe it or not, I had trouble going to sleep last night. I am concerned about all the weight in the pack, the ruggedness of the Trail, catching up to the guys I've been hiking with, and the effect that the additional weight is having on my pack, especially the shoulder straps. I just pray it holds together for another 3 to 4 weeks, then I don't care. Decided to eat breakfast here at the condo from my foodbag rather than go out to a restaurant with Jeff. It will save time and reduce my weight just a little. Today I climb Franconia Ridge, another 3,000 feet ascent to above treeline. The Trail will stay above treeline for several days. Weather forecast says possible afternoon thunderstorms. Not a good place to be in a storm, but what can I do? Go home?   A brief additionnal note about the wonderful generosity of the whole Anderson family. They put me up, took me to dinner, drove me around for a couple of hours, and disrupted their morning sleep to take me to the Trailhead. How can I express my gratitude for their kindness and for lifting my spirits? What great people! You won't know how much you did for me! 7PM at Galehead Hut...hiked by myself again today; my 3 friends were gone before we got to the AT from the trailhead. By coincidence, Jeff got me to the trailhead the same time that the others' shuttle van arrived. The ascents and descents today were as rugged, punishing, and risky as any I have had, but for once it was worth it. The Trail above the treeline is absolutely stunning; I was reminded of the Himalayas but on a smaller scale. It was as if the entire Smokey Mtn. Park main ridgeline had Wilburn Ridge superimposed on it, times ten. My spirits were lifted when I needed it most. This was the most impressive, awe-inspiring view so far on the entire Trail. I don't know if Dr. King was ever here, but something similar must have been in his mind when he said " I've been to the mountain top" to describe a great accomplishment at a special place. But all good things must come to an end. My gear problems continue unabated. The backband is tearing again, which shifts the pressure to two lines across my back rather than evenly distributing it over 8" or 9". And the hiking pole that had a slightly bent section telescoped and I can't get it to tighten up. I hiked the last 2 miles or so with only one pole. Right now it's a race between getting to Katahdin and total gear failure. I may summit dragging a burlap sack full of gear. I also decided today to do something I wish I had done weeks ago...I'm going "NO COOK". To save weight and evening time, I'm going to send home my stove, fuel bottle, and cookkit. I can eat tuna, chicken, summer sausage, cheese, bagels, peanut butter, etc. for another 3 or 4 weeks without serious problems. Just two lunches and no supper for awhile. The weight reduction may take a little bit of strain off the pack. HIKER REPORT: Met lots of weekenders, a couple of SOBO's, and Tyvek. He is a southbounder who is walking in support of veterans, especially those with post-traumatic stress syndrome. He walks barefooted, and all his gear except food appeared to be some variation of Tyvek sheeting. He is publicizing a website called longroadhome.org, I think. The conflict between thru-hikers and AMC hut policy is real, and I'm a victim. Restless, Messenger, and Two Shoes were the first 3 thru-hikers to arrive, and somehow they are permitted to stay here in the dining room floor on a work-for-stay basis, even though the hut rules say only 2 thru-hikers can do that per night. When I arrived (and two others after me) we were told we wouldd have to leave and go somewhere else to camp. My frustration and resentment tested my self-control to the limit. After 30 minutes or so of "discussing" the policy and options, I chose to pay the regular overnight fee for a bunk (with blankets and pillow...no sheets), dinner, and breakfast. I wanted to eat out of my food bag to reduce weight, and I was perfectly happy to sleep on the wood floor, but I was not willing to pack up again and go set up a tent somewhere up the Trail. I'm still angry, but at least my belly is full. My reaction to AMC and the US Forest Service (which grants AMC a license to operate this hut) will be forthcoming. I walked today for the Andersons and for Thomas Jefferson, who wrote the Declaration of Independendce which I did not get to hear read by the NPR news staff. Also, I had at least one good idea tonight. I used duct tape to create "stops" on the hiking poles so the telescoping sections won't telescope.