Date: 2020-07-18
From: Harpers Creek Shelter

To: Rockfish Gap (Waynesboro)
Miles today: 27.0

Decided to push for town (Waynesboro) today. I knew I'd reach the only logical shelter, Wolfe, by late in the afternoon and my stomach would decide to hike the additional five miles anyway. So I planned for it upfront. Didn't get out until 8, thanks to rolling over and sleeping in another hour. With a huge climb to start the day I wasn't very eager to jump up and hit the trail. But after a good breakfast - applesauce and a honey bun - and importantly a lot of water I felt invigorated.The climb was no joke. On my section hikes I would often ask thruhikers what the toughest climb was (this before we reached New Hampshire), and they almost always answered "The Priest". Which I take to mean Three Ridges since NOBOs descend the Priest. Well, here I am! I knocked out a thousand feet last night to reach the shelter and I'm glad I did. The next thousand weren't too bad. But I was fresh, the air was still cool, and the trail was mostly dirt and not too steep. The last thousand were the killer. Rocky, rooty, steep, overgrown at times, temperature and humidity rising. I was a sweaty and annoyed mess by the time I summited. Typically I'd let off steam by sounding my barbaric "Yawp" o'er the rooftops of the world after such a climb (apologies to Whitman). But there were dayhikers about so I couldn't even do that. Well, if I were total hiker trash maybe, but LNT #7 applies here.Thus began a stretch full of dayhikers and weekenders between Three Ridges summit (reached far more easily from a parking lot to the north) and Humpback Rocks. The trail was very narrow thanks to overgrowth and sidehill carve-outs, so I spent a lot of time patiently stepping aside and exchanging pleasantries. After seeing practically no one the last couple of days I was peopled out.Pennsylvania has got nothing on Virginia's rocks. Most of Three Ridges and Humpback were covered with rocks, small boulders, and those small loose stones that love to send you back half a step when climbing or skiing downhill when descending.There were occasional views, but if I'm being honest they didn't do much for me. I wanted to cover some miles, and not only was it pretty hazy but the landscape was largely farmland. I know, I'm spoiled from mountains-to-the-horizon southern Blue Ridge views. What I longed for was water, and there wasn't enough of that. Most sources were a trickle, difficult to fill my water bag. And I sucked down whatever I could get today. More than once I nursed a cup of water the last several miles to a source. You know it's humid by the amount of water you're taking in. That and the growing salt stains on my pack and shirt from all the sweat pouring out.Today's highlight was seeing a momma bear and cub walking slowly above me as I descended from Humpback. Momma was following her cub, in the opposite direction and about fifteen yards uphill. She gave me a brief glance and kept sauntering along, crunching through the leaves. I managed to get video through the trees which I'll post on the linked Instagram. This morning I fell off my pace dramatically in the Three Ridges climb, but somehow I managed to pour on (literally) the miles the rest of the day. I covered 27 miles in ten hours and reached Rockfish Gap at 6:15. No lunch break, just shoving snacks in my mouth all day. Just my luck the food stand at Rockfish Gap - King's Gourmet Popcorn - had closed early. But Stanimals sent out a shuttle driver and I was in town and inhaling burgers, iced tea, and a milkshake within the hour. A 60-year-old southbound section hiker from western Pennsylvania, another Tortoise, is here. Also a group with a large friendly dog (as in, likes to jump on me) in a private room, and a Kentuckian my age named Tryton who appeared late in the evening and has a wife and daughter in Turkey of all places.Taking my second zero day tomorrow. I have some chores to do, including replacing my trekking pole tips. And after 80 miles in three days in the heat and humidity I think I've earned a rest. Shenandoah beckons, and I look forward to carrying little food, hitting the Wayside grills every day, and dialing back the miles a little.