Date: 2017-03-07
From: Beech Gap Tenting Area

To: Franklin, NC
Miles today: 15.4

3/7/17 Budget Inn Franklin, NCMiles hiked: 105.8, Miles to go: 2084.0It was the most miserable day on the trail so far. And the most epic! I awoke to rain. It had rained off and on all night. Baloo was just heading out as I was packing up in a light rain. He is section hiking and doing big miles, so we said our goodbyes. The young couple was still in their tent doing whatever young couples do in tents. I started out in my long pants and Goretex jacket because it was pretty chilly; but, after a couple of miles I switched back to my kilt and took off the jacket. In a soft rain, you get just as wet from sweating in the jacket as you do from the rain. I walked in a tunnel all day. The fog was so thick, you could only see 20 ft ahead. The forest was quiet except for the wind and constant dripping off the rhododendrons. The face of the forest has changed since Georgia. It is much more lush, with rhododendron thickets everywhere - although these are all burned. There were no views to be had and I saw no other NOBO hikers all morning. I did see a few southbound section hikers; but, everyone was in their own world and no one felt like conversation. It was pretty much a miserable day. The trail was actually quite nice, with a smooth treadway and long but gentle ascents and descents. Then I started up 5250 ft Albert Mt. The lead-up was about a two mile ascent in which I gained about 550 ft. The trail was essentially stuck on the side of the mountain. Now don't get me wrong - it was an incredible feat of trail engineering. But, at one point, I looked down and realized a misstep would send me off into the white abyss. I couldn't tell how far down it was due to the thick fog; but, I think it was far enough. Then we reached the last 0.3 miles. The elevation profile on the map showed the trail going straight up - and it was right. To make matters worse, this is when the rain went from gentle to maelstrom. The wind kicked up and the rain started pelting down. The trail was so steep that, at times, I had to throw my walking sticks ahead of me and pull myself up with my hands. Meanwhile, the trail, which was bare rock at this point, turned into a waterfall, cascading down upon me. And the rock got slick. And my glasses fogged up. This is when the Wilderness EMT inside of me decided to speak up. "Dude! You are in prime hypothermia conditions! It's 50 degrees, the wind is raging, the rain is soaking you, you are expending a lot of energy and you're wearing short sleeves and a kilt!" To which I responded, "I'm a little busy right now! My hands are kinda tied up holding onto the side of the mountain. Besides, there's nowhere to stop and take off my pack and put on my Goretex jacket!" It was epic!The climb seemed to go on forever; but, I finally reached the top. There was a fire tower at the top. The guidebook suggests going up in the fire tower to see the fantastic views. Bummer. The other cool thing about the tower is that it is at the 100 mile mark. I have entered triple digits hiked!I really was beginning to get chilled at this point. So, I put on my Goretex jacket and started hoofing it down the trail to warm back up. At this point, a plan began to form in my mind. If I can keep hoofing it and pass the next two shelters, I can cover 19 miles to Winding Stair Gap and go into Franklin for the night. The more the rain pelted me, the more I liked this plan. At Rock Gap, which was about three miles before Winding Stair Gap, I came upon another thru hiker standing next to the road, which happened to intersect with the trail. He said, "Hey, you made it! The bus will be here in ten minutes.""Bus?""Yeah. Didn't you know the county runs a special bus for thru hikers to take them into Franklin. It's only three bucks."Woo hoo! The best three bucks I've spent on the trail!At the next bus stop, which was Winding Stair Gap, who should be standing there but Baloo? He also decided to head into town out of the rain. It gets even freakier. On the way down the mountain, I got a text from Antman wondering where I was on the trail. It turns out that he had arrived in Franklin yesterday and taken a zero day. Apparently, Alexa is in town somewhere too!After I got settled in my hotel room at Budget Inn (yeah, it's owned by the same guy who owns the Budget Inn in Hiawassee), showered, washed clothes, and laid my stuff out to dry, Antman and I met up for dinner and shared tales of our adventures. It was kind of a bummer to miss out on the apparently amazing views on Albert Mt; but, on reflection, I'm glad it worked out the way at it did. This way, I had a much more epic tale to share! The weather is supposed to be sunny tomorrow. Yay. Also, one point of clarification. A reader was confused by my post the other day when I said Beatin' Mice hiked in a pagoda. I was referring to the conical hats like the Vietnamese farmers wear. I had always thought they were referred to as pagodas (yes, I know a pagoda is a building).Apparently, Google doesn't think so. Sorry for the confusion.