Date: 2019-03-25
To: Fontana Dam
Miles today: 97.1

On the first day after a zero at Top of Georgia hostel, I crossed the GA/NC state line, the first noteworthy sign of progress on the AT. That same day I passed the most photographed tree along the AT, at Bly Gap. Two days later, I passed the 100 mile mark at Albert Mtn, which had sweeping vistas, and concluded the day by hiking with Conductor (two-time thru-hiker, MI) and Pilgrim (fellow Camino hiker, FL).I met up with Westy again at a hostel in Franklin, NC. With pain in both hips, Westy has reluctantly decided to leave the trail. He has been both an excellent mentor and friend to me on the trail, so I was especially sorry to hear his news. In his honor, I relate one final Westy story. On his initial thru-hike, Westy fell and broke his tailbone. In pain, he called his doctor for advice. The counsel from his caring physician: "suck it up ". Westy did, and successfully completed his thru-hike. Franklin, NC, tries to be an exemplary trail town, as represented by the First Baptist Church providing hikers with a pancake breakfast. The associate pastor noted a Bible passage about Jesus assisting hikers in particular - those that are "heavy laden", which certainly describes us. Franklin, NC, also was a chance for me to reflect, because my father was born and raised in Franklin, but in Franklin, PA, not NC. This trip, like all my hikes, is a pilgrimage, and I try to keep things in perspective. They say it takes 5 million steps to hike the AT. (For me, with my smaller stride, especially going downhill, it may be closer to 7.5 million). Because I am slower than most, during the day I often hike alone, joining others when I get to that day's shelter. During the day, I will watch my path, look at the mountainous surroundings and think freely. Although I do not pray much at home, on the trail I find myself numerous times each day repeating the Lord's prayer or singing the first verses to a half dozen hymns I memorized before leaving for the trail. Many hikers, like me, wear Dirty Girl gaiters, which add a "pop" of color above your shoes. One guy said that we all carry the same gear, but we all have different gaiters. It reminded me of a quote from a movie: "the only thing that separates us from the primates is our ability to accessorize!"Trail magic has included burgers twice, beer and veggies, all welcome! I am trying some Superfeet insoles to address soreness in my right foot with limited success. I am spending three nights at the excellent Cabin in the Woods, with one slackpack day and one zero. Interesting but faster hikers that have passed me include Too Late, Denali (MI), Hiex (NM), the band Mailboxes (aka the Purples), Scoutmaster (PA) and Beth and Doug, baker and brewer from Vermont whose common bond must be yeast. Self-assessment: I am going at the right pace for me, graduating from 8 mi/day to a current 11-12mi/day. I am pleased with how I am handling the adversity that is inherent in a hike of this nature, including ice on my tent one morning. Besides the hours of hiking and tired feet, there is the daily setup (tent, sleeping pad, filter water, cook dinner, hang bear bag, etc) and packing up (tent and sleeping bag, eat, water, privy, etc). There are mental letdowns with chores to be done, and periods of loneliness because the set of hikers at each shelter is so fluid at this point. Calls home to my wife have been uplifting and supportive. Still, there are the stunning views each day: the layers of mountains in the distance, each layer dimmer and more indistinct, stretching out into the horizon as if it goes on indefinitely, a world that pictures cannot capture. That must be one reason to hike the AT.