Date: 2009-05-01
From: Icewater Spring Shelter

To: Tri-Corner Knob Shelter
Miles today: 12.6
Weather: overcast clouds

What a change in scenery here at the north end of the Smokies. A real change in weather, too. This morning we woke up to an absolute downpour, with the wind it was blowing near sideways at times. Everyone was sitting inside and pondering what to do. With all the thru hikers considering a 12 mile day, we had some time to let it try and blow by. Eventually Voodoo, Chef, and No Thai had enough and headed out at 8:30. Ginger (like ringer) and I waited it out a bit longer and it paid off. I was ready to cut my miles down or even sit there all day, it was that bad, but at 9:15 the rain stopped like someone flipped a switch. I was pumped. I was last to leave the shelter for the first time. It was 50* and the wind was spitting rain on me off the trees, but the fog broke just long enough for me to get a cool view and picture at Charlie's Bunion, a large rock outcrop on a cliff. It started to sprinkle off and on for a few but generally stayed dry all day. I stopped for lunch at Peck's Corner Shelter, which added about a mile to my day, but I needed water and everyone was there when I got there. It was a nice lunch spot, and the sun even came out for a few. The next 5.5 miles were beautiful. It was pure wilderness, no plane, car, or people noises, barely a songbird; it was just absolute silence in the woods. Absolute silence. It was gorgeous. How many people do you see in a day? At work, school, and around town? 50? 100? Go to the mall and you might see 1000. I've seen 6 people all day today, including all the shelters; I am really out in the middle of nowhere. A couple of them are really cool though. Bob "501" McCaw is here, he's the guy I met who writes the AT Thru Hiker's Handbook now. A sort of trail legend. No Thai is cool, he's on a 6 month visa to hike the AT. He's from Isreal and tells us lots of stories, his English is great. We were telling stories about learning how to drive, which led to talking about what we had in our cars with us. Voodoo told a story about having jumper cables and a space blanket in her glove box, and No Thai said "Oh man, what a difference in culture, at home the only thing in your glove box is a bottle of water and a glock." He was in the Israeli army and now is travelling, which I think is a traditional path for Israeli men. He has an accent and writes in the registers in Hebrew. Nano and Voodoo have midwestern accents, dont'cha know, and Chef is from Canada and says "ouut and aboot" I say "wicked good" and round out the sampling, Mainah style. We're all at a beautiful shelter tonight, and I plan on being out of the Smokies tomorrow. An 18 mile downhill day will take me to Standing Bear Farm and their hostel. Then, it will be 2 more days to Hot Springs, where I'll take my first zero day, woo hoo! Oh yeah, song of the day was "Touch of Grey" by Grateful Dead. Kick: Another soggy day ruined some views, the trail was very rocky today making the going slow and painful. Kiss: It was sprinkling as I approached the shelter tonight, 2 seconds after I stepped under the awning the skies opened up and poured for 20 mins. It was so great I literally laughed out loud to myself. Also, last to leave, first to arrive at the shelter, I must be doing something right. Happy Trails,Transition