Date: 2018-09-23
From: Kinter View

To: Duncannon, PA
Miles today: 13.6

Once again the pain in my leg wasn't allowing me to sleep continuously. After 3 a.m. rain began. Since I was going home later today I wasn't too concerned about the normally undesirable prospect of packing up a wet tent. About 3:30 I made coffee. Later, I heated water and shaved for my town day. Looking forward to either the Doyle's pulled pork BBQ - the best in the country according to Backpacker magazine - or just a big burger. Until I get there all I have is a small pack of Chips Ahoy and two small bags of peanuts. The Chips Ahoy were my breakfast. Packed up and on the trail at 4:53 a.m. I had all my rain gear on. I used my headlamp and it seemed faint. I hoped it was the fog and not weakening batteries as I have about an hour and a half of a foggy rainy darkness to hike into. The trail wasn't too difficult to follow. There were no serious rocky areas. The white AT blazes reflected my headlamp's dull light. Just as the wet night turned into a wet morning I passed Peters Mountain Shelter. I made good time despite the obstacles. As I continued the rain stopped. I crossed over foggy PA 225 on the walkway as traffic slowly crested the ridge below me. A few views allowed me to see the foggy farmlands of the Susquehanna River Valley to the west. In the opposite side of the ridge I could see the Susquehanna River cutting through the mountains as it made its way towards the Chesapeake Bay. A beautiful day. I was going to stop at Clark's Ferry Shelter for water but I just wanted to push on into Duncannon even if it meant running on empty. As I followed the ridge I could hear train whistles on both sides of the mountain. The railroad tracks follow the ever curving river through the various cuts in the mountains. Dropping down to civilization has its good and bad points. Good food in town is a big draw but the noise of the highways is discouraging.  In a short distance I could hear the traffic from US 322, US 15, and PA 147. The bridge across the Susquehanna River bounced due to the truck traffic but soon I was on a side street going into Duncannon. When I got to the Doyle Hotel it was 11:50 a.m. I didn't expect to get there until 1 p.m. But my hopes of a big burger or BBQ were dashed, the door of the Doyle was locked. Well, no problem. I'll just go across the street to Goodies. They always have a good breakfast. But as I arrived the I noticed that on Sundays they close at 11 a.m. Oh, man, now what?! OK, next choice is something to eat at the convenience store nearby. Just as I walked away a woman came out of Goodies' door and asked what I was looking for. I said food with a smile. She is Nancy who operates Nancy's Soft Pretzels next to Goodies and shares the same front door. She makes soft pretzels Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays but on Sundays she makes meals to go. She said today her meal is Asian Chicken. I said I was looking for breakfast. She said she might be able to cook me breakfast but I declined because its not what she usually does. I said maybe I can get something at the store. Then, between puffs of her constantly present cigarette, she motherly told me she's making me breakfast. I agreed.     I went to the bank's ATM across the street. While there I saw Vicky. She and her husband own the Doyle. She remembered me and gave me a big hug. She said they no longer are open Sundays due to slow business. I told her I'd be staying there next week. After talking I returned to Nancy's across the street. When I went in there was a whole a pot of coffee and a place setting for me at a long otherwise empty table. Nancy said she is open until 5 p.m. or until she sells out which she usually does. But she thought perhaps the Asian Chicken wasn't something locals wanted today. Only one customer came in during the time I was there. She served me a ham and cheese omelet and hash browns. She also gave me a piece of pineapple upside down cake. All was delicious. Everything she makes is from scratch and all was absolutely delicious. She surprisingly refused payment. She wouldn't even take a tip. She was just glad to help me out. I told her I'll return next week and try her much raved about pretzels. As I waited outside for Heartrock, Nancy talked with me while continually puffing away at her cigarettes. Heartrock was at Farm Aid in Connecticut over the weekend and was driving directly from there to pick me up in Duncannon. She was delayed due to highway construction but did arrive safely at 1:50 p.m. Heartrock, Nancy and I talked a bit before we headed out. I thanked Nancy for her generosity. I told her I'll see her next week. Heartrock and I headed north and arrived at my house about 4 p.m. For now, 11 days off. After driving to Florida with Heartrock I'll fly back to Pennsylvania on October 4th and resume hiking to Georgia on the 5th.