Date: 2004-09-10
From: Spaulding Mountain Lean-To (Day 2)

To: Crocker Cirque Tent Site
Miles today: 6.2

The rain kept up until nearly dawn. I took my time getting up to let things drain a bit and the South Fork have a chance to subside a bit before I forded it, so it was 915 before I was hiking.The rain had completely stopped but gusts of wind would come roaring through the trees like an approaching airplane then recede; small pockets of fast-moving air. It reminded me of the wind on my wild first night up in the High Sierras, alone above Sonora Pass. As I ascended Spaulding Mountain I plunged into the cloud ceiling and the world turned to fog. The the ferns were mostly wilted and the leaves were turning flame-red on the broadleaf trees scattered among the pines; portents that summer here is rushing to a close. The going was pretty good and I found a raspberry going up and scattered blueberries the rest of the day. I bet readers are sick and tired of hearing what berries I found, but a thousand-plus mile berry streak is worth documenting. Besides, looking for berries keeps me occupied and out of trouble. Who knows what mischief I might get into?The terrain changed abruptly when I reached the steep canyon of the South Branch Carrabassett River. The walls were steep and rocky and I had gotten below the clouds. So there were splendid views down into the canyon. The Trail plunged down a string of rock climbs. They required care in the wet, but were not too complicated or hazardous.Finally I reached the ford. To my relief, a plank crossed the widest part and was a full foot above the fast-rushing water. It was so high several of the approach stepping boulders were several inches below the water so I ended up dunking both hiking boots. But nothing worse than that. The water was moving fast enough I would not have liked trying to ford it.The moment I got to the other bank the clouds divided, blue sky appeared and the sun shined for the first time in days. Isn't it odd how those dramatic Hollywood touches happen just at the right moment? (Looking nervously over shoulder to see if I am really just in a movie)Next came Caribou Valley Road. It turned out to be just a dirt road, not too promising for getting a ride. But the perfect place for Trail Magic, so I kept my eyes peeled. Sure enough, laying in a cold stream just across the road were eight cans of beer from a Trail Angel named Recon. Too bad I don't like beer! Oh well.I reached Crocker Cirque Tentsite at 130. It was seven miles and two 4000 foot mountains before the road to Stratton so I doubted I could get there before dark. Besides, my hamstring seemed better and I did not want to jinx it by rushing into a high milage day. So I stopped for the night, as I had originally planned. The site had privy, watersource and three tent platforms. The boards did not project past the edge and were too close together to stick a tentstake between them but I still managed to put up my Nomad tent with the help of a convenient tree to tie the front awning guyrope to. Within half an hour I had camp made, water purified and was snug in my sleeping bag. Ahhhhhhh..... Gee, me and my sleeping bag are getting quite attached to each other lately! The gusts here are pretty impressive. They get funneled through the canyon, then since cirques are bowl shaped they hit from any direction. Despite the cover of surrounding trees, the tent shudders or the awning inflates like a parachute. A dead tree is dropping small branches on me. I'd move but the other platforms are even more exposed. Could be an interesting night.195 miles to the end.