Date: 2017-07-15
From: New Tripoli Campsite 

To: Unnamed Campsite at 1262.2
Miles today: 16.3
Weather: clear sky

7/15New Tripoli Campsite to Unnamed Campsite at 1262.216.3 miles Total Miles:  1262.2I awoke well rested and refreshed after my day off from hiking. Today is day number 100 since I began the trail. I didn't know it this morning, but I was about to begin what would turn out to be my most challenging day on the trail so far.  I was on the trail by 7:30 and soon reached the Knife Edge.  It was a slow, rocky scramble across large boulders perched across the ridgeline. The going was quite slow, and a serious slip could have had very bad consequences as the fall off from either side was quite steep.  I slipped and fell twice, but was able to catch myself with no harm done.  It was mentally and well as physically challenging, because you were repeatedly required to figure out how to negotiate the jumble of rock faces and boulders as you headed from one white blaze toward the next.  When one could look up, the views were often spectacular. While difficult, I find experiences like the Knife Edge an exciting change of pace from regular hiking. The Knife Edge ended after perhaps a half mile, and the trail became easier.  The sun was shining, and I passed a beautiful spider web lit up by the sun. It was shaped like a ball and very impressive. I also came across a large black snake crossing the trail in front of me. A bit further on, I reached down to pick up what I thought was a piece of cellephane trash, only to discover I just smeared my hand through slug slime.  Oh well, that's one of the reasons for hand sanitizer.  I continued along the trail headed for my next challenge at Bake Oven Knob, when I passed a southbound hiker.  Before I could say anything, he grinned really big, stuck out his hand, and said, "Hi! You must be Stick in the Woods!"  A bit surprised, I acknowledged that I was and inquired how he knew me.  This is how I met Hoosier, who has been following me on my journal.  An avid hiker and mountain climber, Hoosier, who does not live in Indiana (no mountains there), planned a day hike today so he could meet me.  He is the first hiker I have met who knew me from my journal.  We chatted a bit, and he warned me about the descent from Bake Oven Knob, which he said was every bit as dangerous and challenging as the Knife Edge, and that the rocks were particularly slick.  After reaching Bake Oven Knob and enjoying the view, I gratefully heeded his advice and found it accurate indeed.  The rocks were again large, jumbled, and covered with a slick lichen.  I remember an account of this area from an article I read years ago.  The author warned that Pennsylvania was where boots go to die as you scramble over thousands of boulders that range in size from your head to small Buicks.  I was finally experiencing this first hand.  The trail did improve as I headed for Bake Oven Knob Shelter  and lunch.  Hoosier caught up with me from his out and back hike, and we talked some more. He has summited all thirty-five 3,500 foot peaks in the Catskills, and over twenty of the 4,000 foot peaks in New Hampshire.  His goal is to reach the top of all 115 major mountains in the New England area.  He has also hiked extensively in the west and really prefers hiking in winter.  He told me he has hiked the Knife Edge in winter and added that one summer there was a hornets nest in one of the trees that added extra excitement. It was fun to meet him, and I greatly appreciate him taking the effort to meet me.  I filled up with water at the spring at the shelter because water can be in short supply in this area.  Gravity noted that Pennsylvania trail was like Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, sometimes quite wonderful and other times not so much.  The trail out of Bake Oven Knob Shelter was for the most part good, and I began to make good time.  It took me five hours to travel the first five miles today,  but I kept up a nice pace for the next several miles.  I came across some wild blueberries and sampled several. They were quite tasty. I soon passed the next shelter and stopped at the spring near to it. I was approaching the Palmerton Zinc Pile Superfund Site, and suitable water would be particularly scarce.  I added an extra liter to my usual amount. About a half mile later, I was crossing the Lehigh River on the PA 873 bridge.  I always enjoy the excitement and change of pace when arriving in an urban area. I knew there would be a steep, rocky climb out of the Lehigh River Valley and got my first look at what was coming up as I crossed the river.  The mountain loomed in front of me, and I could see the large, open rock face that made up a good percentage of its side and summit.  I hiked alongside the busy road to cross the highway at a stop light to get back to the AT.  I was struck with an interesting oxymoron. The white blazes indicated that I needed to cross at the light, but there was a large No Walking sign above the blaze.  As before, I settled the conundrum by running across the busy road.  I was soon back in the woods and was hiking up a very steep slope when I encountered my big surprise for the day.  When my guidebook informs me that the AT was relocated due to the Superfund clean up and warns of "Rocky, steep trail," I should really pay attention.  It took me two hours to cover less than a mile as I was again scrambling up a very steep rock face (the same one I saw from below crossing the river). I was often on my hands and knees and several times had to toss my trekking poles ahead to keep both hands free. One several occasions I was perched on a rock face unable to move up or forward until I could decipher the puzzle and figure out how to proceed. All this with a heavier than usual pack due to my extra water.  It was really quite exhilarating, although I will be honest and admit that I was not disappointed when I finally reached the top and returned to more normal trail.  The views back down to the river, highways, and buildings were really quite something to see, when one could look up from the job at hand to appreciate them.  Dr. Jekyll returned with several miles of easy trail, and I again had hope that I could reach my planned campsite before dark.  There are few suitable camping possibilities in this area, and the one I was headed for was 3.4 miles past the ascent.  The blueberries were replaced with many bushes full of colorful, red raspberries.  The ecological work in this area has really reaped rewards,  since a few years ago the area was completely devoid of vegetation due to nearly a century of zinc production. It is still recommended not to drink water from the single small stream that runs through the area, but I did risk eating a few raspberries as I hiked along. I could see a large factory complex below me as I walked along the ridge. I don't know if it was responsible for the damage to the area or another factory altogether, but it was impressive in its own right.  The AT remained true to form by becoming very rocky and difficult a half mile from the campsite.  While I feel like I am really taking Rocksylvania in stride, I have to admit I did say a few unflattering, and even disparaging, things about my favorite trail as I struggled to reach the campsite by dark.  I arrived at 8:25, and had time to string the bear rope and set up my tent before sundown. I was preparing dinner by the light of my headlamp when Gravity arrived.  I was in bed by 10:15.  We covered 16.3 very challenging and memorable miles today, and, while I do feel a little more beat up than I usually do at the end of the day, I am confident I'll be ready for whatever the Pennsylvania AT chooses to dish out, whether it be Dr. Jekyll, Mr. Hyde, or a combination of both.