Date: 2018-03-21
From: DerrickÃÂÃÂ¢ÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂs Knob Shelter

To: Double Spring Gap Shelter
Miles today: 7.4
Weather: snow

Did someone say this was the first day of Spring? On the AT in the Smokies, it is anything but Spring like! It started snowing before hiker midnight and continued through the night and all day. My best estimate is 6-10 inches depending on the elevation. When we got started at 9:15 this morning, only RC was still left at Derrick¢s Knob Shelter. Little Furry Animal and the entire Siler Bald Breakfast Club were planning to hike 18 miles to Newfound Gap (and access to Gatlinburg). Rick, Hops, and RC had a more modest goal of hiking 5.7 miles to Siler Bald Shelter and then assessing the situation. There was another section hiker that set out before us.When we started the hike, about 5¢ of snow had already fallen and it was still coming down at a steady rate. With the exception of some drifting snow on parts of the trail, we could easily follow in the tracks of the hikers that set out before us. About 1/4 mile into the hike, the young section hiker approached us, headed back in the direction of the shelter. When I asked if everything was okay, he replied, ¢I¢m just on Spring Break, it was supposed to be warm.¢ In the Smoky Mountains, there are fewer than usual white blazes painted on trees/rocks to mark the trail. At one point today we travelled for over a half mile without seeing a blaze and there was nothing but the footsteps we were following to indicate that we were even on a trail. An occasional fallen tree that had been sawed off to clear the path or a stumble over an erosion control log would let me know we were on a trail, but was it the AT? Periodically, I would open my Guthook App, toggle the GPS position locater on, and give thanks when the blue bubble was on the trail overlay.  Even though the weather presented a potentially dangerous situation, the drifting snow and icy white painted trees and shrubs were a wondrous sight to see. At one point in the wintery hike we jumped a grouse that was hunkered down under a half-hollowed fallen tree. The beautiful bird lifted off producing its signature ¢whop-whop-whop¢ sound as the air was pushed under the flap of its sturdy wings. As it flew low across our path a mere 10 yards in front of me, we were reminded that we were not weathering the storm alone. Regardless of the season or conditions it truly is a wonderland out here.With the windblown snow drifting up to two feet and covering the trail, the footprints left by the hikers ahead of us were quickly fading. We pressed on with me out front clearing a path and Which Way rocking steadily behind me through the deep snow and harsh wind. It was around 1PM when we finally arrived at Siler Bald Shelter. Rick, Pops, and the Breakfast Club were all there, and clearly staying put for the rest of the day. So much for hiking 18 miles to Newfound Gap. Which Way and I quickly decided we were hiking another two miles over Siler Bald to the next shelter. RC came in shortly after us and said he would press on too. We stayed warm enough while we were hiking, but quickly got chilled when we stopped to break for lunch. We managed to choke down a frozen tuna and pepper jack cheese wrap and some chips, washed down with slushy water. Then came the hardest part, as we changed out of our warm down jackets, back into our cold damp hiking clothes. We did some jumping jacks and push-ups to get the blood flowing to the fingers and toes, donned our packs, and stepped out into the worst conditions of the day. The 30mph wind blew the snow hard against our tiring bodies and the snow drifts were now three feet high in places. There were no more footprints to guide us and at times we were trudging through knee deep snow. At one point my fingers and toes went numb. Then something strange happened. We hit a point where I could see nothing but drifts of snow ahead, No ruts, or sawed off trees, or white blazes, or any other indicators that we were on the right path. It was at that instant, when I had a twinge of self-doubt that we were even on a trail. In an instant, a rush of adrenaline washed over my body, immediately warming my extremities. A minute later I picked up a sign that we were on the right path and all self-doubt turned to a sense of euphoria. At one point I turned back to Which Way and bellowed, ¢This is awesome, what an adventure!¢ I¢m not so certain that WW shared my sense of adulation, but she showed a lot of intestinal fortitude today and every other day of this journey. As we drew nearer the Double Spring Gap Shelter, we both agreed we were happy with the decisions we had made over the last few days. We also talked about the work that had to get done as soon as we arrived at the shelter, thinking we would be the only ones there and knowing the inevitable chill that would set in soon after we stopped hiking. Not long after the stone structure came into view it became apparent that we would not be alone. I counted three people under the side awning preparing food and could see smoke billowing from the chimney. As we circled around to the front, I noticed the section hiker Tom from a few days back and his two sons, one wielding a small saw to cut through fallen trees. When I pulled the tarp back on the 12-person shelter, there were at least that many inside and the absolutely jovial bunch greeted us with open arms. I timidly inquired, ¢Um, is there room in the shelter?¢ The reply came without hesitation, ¢We will make room!¢ I informed the group that one more hiker would arrive soon. ¢We will make room for him too.¢ In addition to Tom and his boys, were a group of five girls from Calvary College, MI (on a Spring Break outing), a former Army Ranger, Break Time, and his friend who were section hiking, two thru hiking sisters¢Popcorn and Pancake¢who we had not yet met, and even some familiar faces, namely Close Call and Heartburn. It turns out that US 441 was closed at Newfound Gap due to ¢Winter Storm Toby¢ and the entire group had all had been here since yesterday. There was enough firewood stacked inside to keep hikers warm the rest of the year. But, the true warmth exuded from the souls inside the shelter. Everyone worked together to accommodate each other in a very tight living space. I ended up with a spot on the top shelf with WW below me on the bottom. RC would arrive later and set up his one-man tent on the floor. They all wanted to know what it was like hiking through all of that snow. I convinced them that it was difficult, but not impossible with appropriate clothing and the right ¢gear between the ears.¢ They were soon persuaded that it was better to set out early tomorrow when the temperatures were still cold, and the snow still powdery and light. So, tomorrow we will set out together, taking turns up front plowing through the drifts. I could not think of a better group to hike with. With the temps forecast to rise into the 40s by the afternoon, we are hopeful that the roads will reopen to Newfound Gap, a mere 10.5 trail miles away. Oh, did I mention we would also be crossing over the highest peak on the AT--Clingman¢s Dome.The chatter continued until Hiker¢s midnight. No one was complaining.  As I told WW good night, she said she would miss my warm back. Music to my ears that rang in my head for several minutes. As everyone else was fading quickly, I slipped out of my quilt and into my frozen shoes. Then I slipped outside and let my food bag down from the bear cable. I opened the bag up to retrieve my pot and stove, then reattached the food bag and hoisted it back up. Once inside, I heated a liter of water to fill two 500ml Nalgene bottles. I then roused WW, handing her the hot bottle to place in the bottom of her sleeping bag. ¢Maybe this will help keep you warm, Sweetie.¢ The soft reply came next, ¢You are my hero.¢ More music to my ears!  ¢Next Step Elevation Data:Ascent ~ 2,230Descent ~ 1,550Grade ¢ 9.6 Weather:Day ¢ 25 degrees / 6-8¢ of SnowNight ¢ 15 degrees / Snow Over the Horizon: Clingman¢s Dome