Date: 2013-07-03
From: Harper's Ferry, WV

To: Duncannon, PA
Miles today: 124.5
Weather: light rain

Good evening dear readers,I am happy to report that while I've had a spot of the post Harper's Ferry blues the past week or so, I made it to Maryland, PA, and now Duncannon, successfully completed the half gallon challenge, and thank heavens my many and varied blisters are now almost healed. It's been quite a section, and while I hike out tomorrow headed to Port Clinton and beyond to PA's infamous rocks, I am so very glad I'm still on the trail. I'm currently sitting on the large wrap around porch on the second story of the venerable (think "charming" as it's greatest strength!) and AT tradition Doyle hotel, once again watching small town Americana go by. My poor feet are propped up on the ancient picnic table, and I'm so enjoying the glorious breeze and blue skies on an evening originally slated for thunderstorms. If the trail has taught me nothing else, it has broadened my horizons, while simultaneously making me consciously thankful for all the luxuries in my front country life. I left Harper's Ferry on June 25th, after a lovely and relaxing zero day. The Econo Lodge has my vote for the most comfortable motel bed along the trail thus far! In fact, this section is remarkable for the amount of times I slept in a bed versus camping out. High humidity as we've had this week is my least favorite weather condition this far - hard to believe, I know, with all the nasty weather we had early on, but it's true, unfortunately for me since summer just began. Blackhawk, true Floridian that he is, is joyously soaking in the hot weather. To me, I foresee a land of low humidity in my future! We had a gorgeous early morning leaving Harper's Ferry, and meandered in the historical part of town for some time, enjoying having the city essentially to ourselves. Crossing into Maryland felt odd - had we really just finished our 5th state? Oh, West Virginia, you were short but sweet. The 3 mile towpath (think flat and incredibly well maintained) walk was a very nice welcome, but I have to admit almost boring. Gathland State Park and its abundant civil war history was our lunch place, along with our new pastime - a noon siesta, made so easy by the abundant picnic tables. Perhaps 18+ miles was a bit much for a change of shoes, now that I resignedly threw out the Oboz pair bought not 2 weeks prior, but all was well. As I was to repeat many times in the following few days "I love these shoes!" What a difference a day makes, and this time not for the better. We were happy we'd planned a short day into the Free State Hostel, because we definitely needed it, both physically but most importantly mentally. Conversation the past few days has echoed with the words "chronic fatigue",'"letdown from Harper's Ferry", and "I just want to be normal again". It seems several hikers i know are getting off the trail or did just recently, which makes me question my continuing motivation. Luckily i have no strong desire to quit, and can talk things out with Blackhawk - so nice having a stick buddy who feels so much the same. Far from feeling sassy, we weren't even perky the second day out. The original Washington Monument was a highlight of the day, and the lovely, clean, quiet, and cheery hostel at the end of the day rejuvenated both Blackhawk and I. What a difference air conditioning can make on a hot and humid day. Half a day later saw us continuing to struggle at Pen Mar park, right before the PA border. I jumped on Blackhawk's shoe insole mayday, and neither of us needed much convincing to go into Waynesboro, PA for the night. Mary, a local shuttler, was so nice to take us by an athletic store and recommended our eventual dinner locale - a wonderful cafe that we couldn't believe we found in a small town. Expectations very gratefully exceeded! Refreshed, we returned to the trail the next morning, and enjoyed the Mason-Dixon Line and entry officially into PA, our 7th state. I seem to have shaken some of the blahs from the last few days, and felt strong again. I put the a accelerator down, as Blackhawk likes to say, when thunderstorms made themselves known, of course when we were on the ridges. Made it to the shelter right before a heavy downpour, and shockingly I actually stayed in the shelter itself - only my third time doing so on the trail. We are otherwise enjoying our tour of the parks in PA - county, state, and local. Ahhh, how you appreciate picnic tables when you otherwise have to sit on the ground or a log! A picture perfect 19+ mile day followed, with the official crossing of the halfway point for this year. A beautiful weekend day, we visited Caledonia State Park early on and couldn't believe the breeze and lower humidity. It should be outlawed to eat this much, but, for second breakfast, mind you, I ate half a gallon of ice cream, a cheeseburger, fries, and part of a cherry coke, all before 11am on a Sunday morning. Oy. Why, you may ask? The half gallon challenge at Pine Grove StatePark, of course! An AT tradition, I am happy to report I clocked in at 50 minutes for the ice cream. Blackhawk, despite turning green, managed his orange cream flavor - finally. No sweet tooth there! I had the "honor" of witnessing Grinch, another thru hiker, eat his in 10 mins, 30 seconds. Rather revolting, actually! I'll let you picture the looks on the innocent car campers faces as they passed us gorging away.   A lovely primitive cabin at Deer Run Campground rounded out the day, after we finally dragged our bloated tummies away from Pine Grove. Are you keeping count? Yet another bed/shower/laundry day. Thank heavens, though, because I actually gagged when putting my shirt on that morning. What was even more concerning was that I didn't smell it after a while. Boiling Springs the next day was such a pleasant surprise! Great little town, so picturesque with the river walk and spring. I won't disgust you with what I ingested for lunch in town, but rather with wax poetic on my wonderful mom, who timed my box delivery perfectly to the PO - got there that morning. Thanks Mom! Silly me, though, to get food here - a Marion food circle hump take 2 (where you unnecessarily carry food and don't, for whatever reason, eat any of it, much to your chagrin). Another foot mayday had us only walking 5 miles yesterday, but the Nearo into Duncannon felt like a zero - oh, so relaxing. And, finally, an easy 13 mile Slackpack for me today. You are allowed to pay attention again, the boring litany of "this is what I did this day" is thankfully over! Ultimately, I seem to have gotten my mojo back, and am finally feeling perky again. Feeling sassy is the ultimate rating, by the way, but I'll reserve that until my feet are totally healed I'll finish with some fantastic animal sightings in this section - a groundhog, a small mole running in circles on the trail (lost, poor thing), and a small fawn without mommy insight (poor Bambi) licking the salt off of our legs. Actually, maybe not so fantastic for the "poor" animals, but out of the ordinary for us jaded thru hikers, who go "uh huh" to yet another view, thinking "I've seen better". I do envy section hikers - they haven't necessarily lost the honeymoon with the trail. I'm hoping with my mojo some of that daily wonder comes back. New England, here I come!