Date: 2005-07-28
From: Bethel Spa Motel - Bethel, ME

To: The Cabin Hostel
Miles today: 10.3
Weather: broken clouds

Miles hiked today : 10.3I woke up this morning at 6:30 a.m. and hopped into the shower before eating leftover pizza for breakfast. I tried calling Opa at the Cabin, though there was no answer on the guest line. Closer to 8:00 a.m., I called the main line and was put in touch with Opa. We made plans for him to meet us at 10:00 a.m. in Bethel, at which point we would shuttle to Grafton Notch.Michael and I headed to the grocery store while Sean did laundry for the 3 of us. After grocery shopping, I packed up and, at 10:00 a.m., Opa showed up with Phoenix, who currently works at the Cabin. Opa gave me my maildrop, which he'd held for me since Gorham. The weight of my maildrop plus the groceries I'd purchased this morning was tremendous, though it wasn't any worse than what it has been in the past. I'm just glad that I didn't have to take the contents of my maildrop through Mahoosuc Notch. We were shuttled to Grafton Notch and when I asked how much the shuttle cost, Opa said he'd already taken care of it, which was very generous of him. I can't imagine that it was inexpensive, as it was a 30 minute ride from Andover to Grafton Notch.At the trailhead was a trail angel named Humpty Dumpty, who gave us sodas and offered to slackpack us. Michael and Sean took him up on his offer and stayed to make meeting arrangements while Opa and I hiked out at 11:00 a.m. I started up the steep trail to Baldpate Lean-To and was soon passed by Sean and Michael. At 12:20 p.m., Opa and I stopped for a 15 minute water and rest at the side trail to the lean-to. As in other sections of the AT, Maine has a special name for shelters: the lean-to.At 1:00 p.m., as we were headed up the trail, it became apparent that Opa's knee was bothering him. I encouraged him to take a break and so we sat for 15 minutes. He was having trouble stepping uphill and our break was rather sad, as it seemed like Opa would be unable to continue hiking. I asked him whether he wanted to return to Grafton Notch, though he declined, as I wasn't previously able to obtain a cell signal in Grafton Notch, which would be problematic for obtaining transportation. By not turning around, Opa would have to hike on at least another 7 miles to the next road.I matched my pace to Opa's and we reached the west peak of Baldpate Mountain at 1:40 p.m. On the back side of the west peak, I was able to get a cell signal, so I called the Cabin and made arrangements for Opa to be picked up at East B Hill Road at 5:30 p.m. As we walked on, Opa told me that he wanted me to call him from Abol Bridge so that he could shuttle me from Baxter State Park to Bangor, which is where I plan to catch a bus to NYC to meet Ammo and Mason. This was a very generous offer on Opa's part, as he lives at least 2 hours from Baxter State Park and I have no idea how far it is to Bangor.There was a minor dip on the path to the east peak of Baldpate Mountain, and once I reached the summit, I was amazed at the far reaching panoramic view. There were no trees on the summit to obstruct the view and, for that matter, there was very little vegetation. Continuing on, we reached Frye Notch Lean-to at 3:45 p.m. With 4.5 miles remaining to East B Hill Road, it seemed highly unlikely that we were going to make it by 5:30 p.m. Opa suggested that I hike out ahead of him and try to call the Cabin as soon as I got a cell signal. After a 20 minute snack and rest break, I headed out at top speed.I acquired a cell signal shortly after leaving the shelter and arranged for the folks at the Cabin to pick Opa up at 6:30 p.m. I kept moving as quickly as possible, as Michael and Sean said they'd wait for us at East B Hill Road. Since they were meeting Humpty Dumpty at 4:00 p.m., I didn't want to keep them waiting for too long.As I hurried along the trail, I didn't see much of interest, as I was distracted by the thought that I was losing my hiking buddy. I did, however, stop briefly at Dunn Notch, which was a very beautiful chasm with a large stream flowing through it. Pushing on, I reached East B Hill Road at 6:05 p.m. and found Sean and Michael waiting with Humpty Dumpty and Mt. Squid, a section hiker I'd previously met at the Hikers Welcome Hostel in Glencliff, NH. I informed all present that Opa was probably done with the AT for the current time. Conveniently, Humpty Dumpty lives about 30 minutes from Opa and said that he'd be able to give Opa a ride home if he wanted. Bear, from the Cabin, showed up at 6:30 p.m. and stayed to see what Opa wanted to do. When Opa arrived at 6:50 p.m., he opted for Humpty Dumpty's ride to Northern Maine. I tearfully gave Opa a hug goodbye and left with Bear to stay the night at the Cabin. Michael and Sean were being frugal and declined offers from both Opa and I to pay for them to stay at the Cabin. Even though I'd just stayed in a motel last night, I'd heard such good things about the Cabin that I couldn't pass it up.I arrived at the Cabin at 7:15 p.m. and was ushered upstairs with Mt. Squid to eat a dinner of stroganoff and vegetables. Zeke, another NOBO who I'd only recently met, had already finished dinner and was working on dessert. Bear, his wife, Honey, and Phoenix joined us for conversation. After dinner, I had dessert, which consisted of strawberry rhubarb pie, a huge brownie, and moose tracks ice cream, which I hadn't had since the 1/2 gallon challenge. Bear kept insisting that I eat more ice cream, as they had to clear freezer space for a new 3 gallon container of ice cream, which would be arriving tomorrow. I managed to put away 4 scoops of ice cream the size of my fist and by the time I finished, Bear did not appear to be disappointed.After dinner, I headed downstairs to the hiker cabin to take my second shower of the day and split a load of laundry with Zeke. Simply put, the Cabin is a phenomenal place. Bear kept referring to the hiker cabin as our apartment, though it consists of the entire basement level of their home. Honey and Bear have been running the Cabin for 11 years, though they've lived here for 20 years. They've remodeled the whole place, added wood paneling to the walls upstairs, built a bunkroom downstairs, and installed a sink, shower, and stove in the hiker cabin. Both Honey and Bear are very kind and made me feel at home, which was greatly appreciated. Although Michael, Sean, and Opa aren't here, the company is good and I chatted with Zeke, Mt. Squid, Phoenix, and a late SOBO arrival, Andrew, before journaling. I learned that Phoenix had met Holly earlier this year when she was hiking down south. As I was wrapping up this entry, Andrew put "O' Brother, Where Art Thou?" in the VCR, which I watched before going to bed. I've heard that breakfast at the Cabin is quite good and AYCE, so I imagine that I'll be quite full as I begin my hike tomorrow morning. Michael and Sean are pacing themselves with a series of near 10 mile days in order to pick up a maildrop in Rangely on Monday, so I won't have far to hike tomorrow. Interestingly, I have a pair of fords tomorrow, the first of 15 listed in the databook section for Maine.Regarding Opa's departure, I hope he knows that I'll miss him a great deal. He's been one of my best friends on the trail and has helped to keep my spirits high since Palmerton, PA. Heal well, Opa, and I hope you are soon able to finish the few sections of trail you've missed.Bedtime at 11:55 p.m.