Date: 2005-03-18
From: Neel's Gap (Hiker Hostel)

To: Low Gap Shelter
Miles today: 10.6
Weather: overcast clouds

3.18.05Day 512:05pm Oh what a beautiful morning. Oh what a beautiful day...What a glorious sight, to see that golden orb in the sky once again. I woke up at 5:30, just in time to see Leigh head out the door for work. I looked out the window, to see the Big Dipper framed perfectly in the opening. The sunrise was a blossom of colors, from deep reds to pale yellows. Today is an absolutely perfect day for hiking. Break, CJ, and I stopped for a mid-morning break. Not for lunch. Not for a snack. Just for a break. B/c we could. No rain. No cold. No wind. No fog. We're actually experiencing views today, if you can believe it. Stopped right now on Cowrock Mtn where, as Sweetleaf said so many times last year, 'You can see for-eve'. And, indeed, you can. The morning frost, a wafer-thin sheen of ice coating the branches, glistened and shimmered in the early sun. And now, as the sun warms the air, the ice is gradually sloughing off, raining down around us in glittery chunks.8:20pm A perfectly clear night, the moon displaying half of her face, hiding the other side in shadows. Stars are scattered across the nightly canvas. I located my old, trusty, familiar constellation companions, and half-heartedly flipped through my guide book to learn a new one. But, mostly, I was content to simply throw my head back and gaze at them. Anonymous and unknown to me, those clusters of twinkling stars still remain beautiful and mysterious to me.Here at Low Gap tonight, tent city on the fringe of the shelter. CJ, utilizing the knowledge acquired from the master pyro Bill, quickly amassed a roaring blaze. So, I enjoyed my dinner (the heaviest one from my food bag. Don't you just love the mental reasoning of hikers?) of 3-Bean Chili burritos while perched on a log a scant 2 feet from the frolicking flames. And, for dessert, the home-baked oatmeal cookie provided by Pittsburgh, the shuttle service provider from the Georgia AT. Yum. A good, hot meal really hit the spot, b/c, tho' it wasn't cold today, once you stopped moving around, a definite chill settled in. And, although today was only 10 miles and change, and we took frequent (and lengthy) breaks, I really felt 'em today. I think I even started to draw on some of my reserve fuel. I don't really know why -- I've been feeling great. A few aches and pains, and some persistent, persnickety blisters. But, all in all, nothing to complain about. But today, I was plain whipped by the time we rolled into camp. Testnatee Gap was the proverbial straw on the camel's back. (And, w/ the amount of water I tote in my pack, I have a lot in common w/ those dromedaries.) First, descending into that gap. And then, the bloody-awful, interminable climb out of it. Having clear skies meant that you could plainly see how much 'up' was still ahead of you. CJs comment on reaching the top was 'I didn't know I could pant so fast.' But, I just maintained a steady pace, slow enough taht my breathing remained free and easy. It felt like it took forever to get to the summit, but when I did I felt infinitely better than had I aggressively charged up it, as I was wont to do last year. Despite the physical depletion of energy, though, today was spectacular. Some absolutely phenomenal views from various rock outcroppings, beautiful weather, unhurried pace. One of those days that you're just glad (heck, ecstatic) that you're fortunate enough to bear personal witness to it.