Date: 2004-08-05
From: Near Overpass of NY Thruway

To: Manhattan Skyline
Miles today: 19.3

Today was my third and final day hiking with Nils, a high school teacher who lives near the Appalachian Trail with his wife Megan.Our goal was to hike approximately 18 miles on the Appalachian Trail and cross the Hudson River. After that, Megan would pick him up and I would continue hiking a short while longer and make camp.We began hiking early in the morning under overcast skies. Soon, the sun broke through with less humidity than on recent days.This was a wonderful hike. We traveled through open forest full of rocky ledges.At one such ledge, the trail led us through a narrow gap between two rocky facades which is called "The Lemon Squeeze." Halfway through this narrow passage, I had to stop, unshoulder my backpack, and pass it up to Nils who was perched on top of one of the facades. We ate lunch at a shelter constructed with stone. I read the register and learned that I am gradually catching up to a few hikers I have not hiked with for a long time. They include Shivers and members of the Rabid Marmot Tribe who are Sardine, John and Steven. Hikers write dates beside their messages in the registers, that is how I determine how far ahead they are from me. But most of the hikers I am friendly with are somewhere behind me. They can read my messages and estimate where I am hiking. It is hard for me to know where they are located.We enjoyed the scenery at several viewpoints. At one highpoint, we observed off in the distance the skyline of New York City. The skyscrapers in Manhattan appeared as bluish gray silhouettes.At another viewpoint, a middle aged, female hiker showed up. She had been hiking on a trail which intersected with The Appalachian Trail. She was low on water and was unsure of where she was located."I almost cried," she said to describe her reaction at nearly getting lost.Nils showed her where on the map she was located. I gave her some water.She chatted with us for a brief spell then moved on. Shortly thereafter, she came back and informed us that she was having trouble finding the trail which led to her parked car. Nils and I gave her directions and she hiked off.When Nils and I resumed hiking, we crossed paths with a man who was day hiking in the same direction as the woman who was experiencing navigational problems. I asked him to check on the woman to see if she was doing okay.The man smiled and asked, "Is she cute?"Further up the trail, I met the first southbound hiker who is female. Her name was Oatmeal Stout and she was twenty something years old. All of the southbound thru hikers I have met so far are in their twenties. I suspect that the southbounders of older ages will appear later in the summer.Nils and I were hiking across the summit of Bear Mountain when we spotted a family of turkeys.Downslope, we walked through a park beside a pond. I noticed Hassidic Jews walking about, a reminder of the closeness of New York City.It was during the evening when we crossed a bridge spanning the Hudson River. During the crossing, I observed a steep and forested hill rising above the landscape ahead of me. I was concerned about my ability to ascend this hill and find a place to camp before dark.After we crossed the river, Nils and I exchanged farewells. I thanked him for his hospitality and companionship.With precious little daylight remaining, I ascended the hillside above the eastern bank of the Hudson River. I pushed hard with three liters of water in the backpack. My heart was pounding from exertion. When the terrain leveled off, I bushwhacked away from the trail and stealth camped; this means to camp out in the vicinity of the trail but not in view of it.While cleaning my pot, I accidentally spilled some water. That was regrettable considering the effort it required to hump the water up the steep hill.The temperatures are cool tonight. A breeze is keeping the insects at bay. There are no mosquitoes buzzing outside the netting of this hammock as I compose this entry. I expect to sleep well, satisfied at having crossed The Hudson River.