Date: 2013-07-27
From: Rainbow Lake Campsite

To: The Birches Lean-to
Miles today: 21.2

It stopped raining overnight, although the sky was gray and misty this morning. I packed up and was on the trail by 6:15. The bugs were so relentless around my head that I had to wear my bug net. It's amazing how much of a relief that lightweight net provides.The trail followed the shore of Rainbow Lake for a long time. Once again there were lots of wet and slippery roots. Eventually I climbed up to Rainbow Ledges, where I scored cell reception but no views due to the weather.We had planned a 21+ mile day today and agreed to meet 11 miles into the day at Abol Bridge, where there was civilization in the form of a campground, store, and restaurant. The thought of food always motivates me, and I arrived at the bridge by 11:30. It was such a drastic change... one minute I was reading the sign signifying the end of the 100 Mile Wilderness, and the next minute bam! I was on a road being passed by several buses transporting whitewater rafters. As I crossed the bridge there were all kinds of boats filled with people and the majestic Katahdin in full view above the river. I realized that I hadn't seen that much activity since I entered the wilderness almost a week ago.I picked up a few food items in the store and then went to the adjacent restaurant. The friendly waitress asked me about my hike and then asked me how the hike had changed me personally. My eyes welled up as I told her what an incredible experience this has been and how much I've enjoyed and learned from the people I've met along the way. I'll tell you, I'm afraid I'm going to be a blubbering fool at the top of Katahdin tomorrow.Dragonstick arrived shortly after and we had a leisurely lunch, talking with some of the other hikers in the restaurant. A good lunch of non- trail food is definitely the way to break up a 21 mile day. We then hiked out and within a few minutes entered Baxter State Park. There was a ranger stationed on the trail who registered us for a stay at The Birches, two lean-tos in the park reserved for long distance northbounders. The remaining 9.5 miles included some nice stretches of trail. By this time the sun was out, the birds were singing, the trail was level, and we walked along a beautiful stream. Now that's what I call hiking. We did have 2 river fordings, and the first was the biggest one I've encountered. We took our shoes off, put our crocs on, and hoped we wouldn't slip into the fast current.By 5 I was at the Katahdin Stream Campground, where The Birches Lean-tos are located. I sat in the sun and talked with Steve, who I'd met a few days ago and who's completing a Maine section hike. He filled me in on the process and then I walked across the bridge to register with the ranger. It's $10 for a night and apparently Dragonstick and I are the only 2 hikers here tonight. The ranger gave me paperwork to complete for my 2,000 miler certification - wow, this is real. The ranger station also offers day packs, so I picked up a spiffy LL Bean pack to use tomorrow. My shoulders will appreciate the lighter load.Because of the mosquitos I opted to put my tent up on the tent platform. I thought last night was the final night in my tent but instead it's tonight. The weather forecast for tomorrow is excellent, so we should have a great day for the climb up the Big K. Almost there...Today's highlight: being poised for the final piece of this journey.