Date: 2005-04-16
From: Indian Grave Gap (TN Route395/NC Route 197)

To: Greasy Creek Gap
Miles today: 15.0

DAY 36Breakfast at Miss Janet¢s House this morning was just the greatest experience. It was at a large table outdoors in her back yard. There were at least 15 to 20 hikers and hangers-on around the table. It was a beautiful and clear morning. After a great breakfast, it was time for Miss Janet¢s version of the Question of the Day. Today¢s Question was: ¢Tell us two things about yourself; one is to be true and the other is a lie¢. The other hikers were to guess which statement was true and which was the lie. I can only remember a few of the responses tonight, as it has been a long day.My lie was that I have six grandchildren and my true statement was that I am 65 years old. The others preferred to believe I have six grandchildren. I have only one (Ryan, age 2). I was kind of flattered that nearly everyone thought I was younger than 65. Miss Janet¢s lie was that she had been married four times (actually only twice) and the truth was that she had hiked less than two hundred miles on the Appalachian Trail. Another hiker, ¢Smiling Joe¢ (the name fits him well) had been a dumpster diver in New York, which was true.There were at least two non-hiker hangers-on at the breakfast table. One was Irving, a strange old man from New York. The other was ¢Packrat¢ who owns a hostel at Greasy Creek Gap. Perhaps he was here to promote it. I thought I might stay there tonight. Reluctantly, it was time to leave Miss Janet¢s House and resume my hike. Miss Janet drove me back to Indian Grave Gap. Enroute we chatted about families and the various Trail characters she knows. My right shin was still hurting as I started today¢s hike. A little over two miles into my hike I came to Beauty Spot, which is aptly named. It is a bald summit with beautiful views. While I was there relaxing I was joined by a group of four much younger hikers, and two older guys, ¢Homer¢ and ¢Halfway¢. Surprise of surprises, Homer and I share the same birth date in 1939. While we were relaxing and enjoying the views and a great spring time day, a group of well dressed people came up to our resting spot. The younger people immediately thought perhaps they might be Trail Angels bearing food. They were anticipating Trail Magic. But, alas, our hopes were dashed and they ended up being a group of horse back riders checking out the area. Onward I went with my shin hurting more and more. About five miles later I came to Cherry Gap Shelter. The four young people were already there, so I stopped for lunch there. I thought about staying there for the night as my right shin was getting quite painful. For better or worse, I decided to go on to Greasy Creek Friendly Hostel for the night. This is an additional seven miles beyond Cherry Gap Shelter. The problem with Greasy Creek Friendly Hostel is that it is about three-quarters of a mile downhill from the Trail. Locating the side trail to the hostel is another problem. The Forest Service prohibits commercial signs in the National Forest. This morning Packrat told me to look for a green blazed side trail the right, which leads to his hostel. The sore shin slowed me down and it was late in the afternoon when I finally saw the green blazes. I started the walk down to the hostel, which seemed endless. I thought about the long distance I would have to walk tomorrow morning to get back on the Trail, with a sore shin. Eventually I reached the hostel and was greeted warmly by Packrat¢s wife, ¢CeeCee¢. I couldn¢t help but notice a tall wooden fence facing the hostel with the words painted in white, ¢Hiker Trash Son of a Bitch¢. CeeCee explained that the neighbor hated the hostel and hikers. He did many things to harass hikers and the hostel owners, including running loud equipment and having many nasty, barking dogs. No matter this hostel is very pleasant.There is only one hiker room in the hostel building proper. That was already occupied by a British couple. I am staying in the next door bunk house, which is rather cold and stark. There are only three of us at the hostel tonight. The dinner CeeCee served me was good, better than one of my trail meals. I will soon be off to bed by myself in the cold bunkhouse. I hope my shin won¢t be hurting so much tomorrow.