Date: 2017-03-20
From: Siler's Bald Shelter, NC

To: Icewater Spring Shelter
Miles today: 15.1
Weather: clear sky

3/20/17 Icewater Spring ShelterMiles hiked: 209.8, Miles to go: 1980.0Staying in the shelter last night turned out pretty well. No mice and minimal snoring. We awoke to a beautiful clear morning around 40 degrees. This was especially nice since we would be crossing 6643 ft Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT. On clear days, you can see up to 100 miles from the summit. Today's hike wasn't as tough as yesterday; but, it was still really tough. Hiking the Smokies isn't for sissies. I did come up with a theory while hiking today. The toughest day I've had on the AT was also the only day that I didn't wear my kilt. Coincidence? I think not!It was a fairly long and steep climb up Clingman's Dome; but, the sun was hanging in there. As I was nearing the summit, I saw the clouds moving in. Alas, by the time I reached the weird tower on top with the curving walkway, the clouds had settled in. No views. Bummer. I had to deal with the same trail conditions as yesterday. In fact, there was even more ice. I hiked all day in my microspikes. Coming down the back side of Clingman's Dome I was literally walking on a frozen waterfall. The trail was bare rocks covered with 2-3 inches of solid ice. Sticks and Hummingbird (both of whom I hadn't seen since GA) both took falls on the ice. Luckily, no harm done in either case. My pack is still heavier than I'd like and appears to be bigger than many out here. However, it's a balancing act between weight on your back and comfort and safety. Case in point - microspikes. If you remember, I tried reducing weight by carrying a 20 degree hiking quilt and had a couple of pretty miserable nights. I am definitely willing to take the weight penalty for my 15 degree mummy bag. The other highlight of the day was crossing the TN/NC state line at Newfound Gap. For the next couple of days we will bounce back and forth between the two states. Newfound Gap is a big attraction for tourists from Gatlinburg. When I arrived, I was amazed to see hundreds of tourists milling about. I guess it's Spring Break for a lot of school systems. Many of the thru hikers were catching rides down to mountain to Gatlinburg for the night. Although the gravitational pull of Gatlinburg was pretty strong, I continued climbing out of Newfound Gap toward the shelter. I was amazed at the number of tourists who were coming down the trail since the trail was very muddy and icy. They had hiked up to he trail only to discover there were no views to be had today. And most of them were in tennis shoes. There must be someone in Gatlinburg that sells bear bells (those are the bells people put on their packs to let the bears know they are coming so the bears can prepare to eat them). Everyone had bear bells on their packs! And the smell of perfume, cologne, and deodorant was overpowering. After you've been away from it for awhile, you realize just how much smelly stuff people wear. After a long climb, I finally arrived at the shelter. Marguerite, Chris, and I actually stayed at this shelter 20 years ago when we hiked this section during Chris's UT Spring Break. We got caught in a snow storm and had woefully inadequate sleeping bags. It was pretty miserable at the time. Now it's fond memories. The 12 person shelter has 13 people in it tonight, so we are pretty packed in. I'm curious to see how it goes...