Date: 2004-09-12
From: Long Pond Stream Lean-to

To: Gulf Hagas Cut-off Trail, stealth camp
Miles today: 17.3

I felt very good this morning hiking but it didn¢t take long for the rough miles to wear me down. Excellent cliff views today from Barren Ledges. I could see the silhouette of the Bigelows on the horizon, but there were no sights of Katahdin Range. We were only at 2500 feet.When I finally reached Chairback Gap Shelter for lunch, I was beat. The book mentioned that the water source was ¢infront¢ of the shelter. It didn¢t mention that it was straight down hill forty feet.81 arrived shortly after me. He had stealth camped last night because he missed the turnoff for the shelter where we all stayed. Gradually, other hikers showed up. Jalan Jalan and Chafe both intended to hike twenty miles that day. The rest of us spoke of our plan to stealth camp. We didn¢t know what was available in the woods, but there was a fare amount of us hoping to find a piece of earth for the night after the next river ford. So I took off to get first dibs.The Wilderness appears to offer us a sampling of each state¢s distinctive features such as the rocks of Pennsylvania, the Virginia ups-overs-downs, New England drop-offs, and Georgia¢s open woods. It is almost as if we¢ve been training for this section all along. My poles are falling apart¢probably from the high waters. At least they lasted this long. I also noticed that my head lamp seems low and the straps on my pack slip. Just a few more days and I can give these items a nice retirement.Right before reaching the west branch of the Pleasant River, our next to last ford, Bones, Slips and I came upon one of the best springs. We held our bottles under the trickling stream and drank. ¢There is a God,¢ Bones said with a sigh. Cold, refreshing, and crystal clear. We considered bottling and selling the stuff, but the hike to this point wouldn¢t be cost effective. I have to admit that I will miss this aspect of the hike the most¢fresh water. It is better than bottled water that you buy in any store.The walk across Pleasant River was easier because it was shallow (only up to our knees) and the current was mild. On the other side, though, we were immediately targeted by a swarm of mosquitoes. A stoic lady ranger/ridge runner waited for us at the other end. Her legs were covered with bites, but she held fast to her duty and told us we could not camp near the river as we hoped. Options were traveling another five miles (two hours, she said) to the next shelter or checking if the pay-campsite a little down the trail is available. I ran off to the next shelter hoping to reach it before sunset.Along the way, I met Jim, a friend of Bluebearee. He was heading south after leaving her on White Cap. When he saw me he said, ¢You must be Lonesome Dove.¢ It still feels strange to have strangers greet me. We talked for a bit and then I headed off. I could tell I would not arrive at the shelter in daylight. Shortly after passing the Gulf Hagas Cut-off Trail, I found a small spot off to the side and pitched my tent.I could hear the Gulf Hagas River bubbling about 200 feet below me down a cliff, but there was no water source near my campsite. It was a good thing I filled up at the last spring. Otherwise the site seemed perfect and quiet. I only saw 81 pass me that evening. I assumed that Hotrock and the girls had camped at the pay site and that Slips and Bones reached the next shelter. Bluebearee is about a day ahead of me on the Trail. It would be good to catch up with her. Tomorrow I have White Cap though. The mountain itself is only 3700 feet. But I have to hike over three peaks to get to it.