Date: 2006-08-09
From: Somewhere on Quimby Mtn.

To: VT Hwy 12 / Woodstock
Miles today: 18.0

Slept well 'til around midnight last night when the "bearanoia" kicked in. Kept hearing footsteps near my tent, when in reality it was probably a squirrel poking around in the leaves...but it's hard to convince your mind of that when you're all alone on a dark mountainside. Plus, I was too exhausted and sick yesterday to bother hanging my food bag...it spent the night with me in my tent, a big hiker no-no. (Flat Rocks will surely chew me out for this infraction.) So, I deserved to be eaten by a bear, but somehow managed to be spared.I packed up at 5AM and got on the trail feeling very weak and woozy by 5:45. Everytime I had to climb, I felt like hurling...except there was nothing left in me to hurl. So I just kinda walked slowly and gagged a lot. It took me about four hours to finish eating a Snickers bar, but I managed to keep it down. By 10-11AM, I could feel a little more energy returning and I was able to eat my regular peanut butter and honey cannoli for lunch around 1PM.Now here's where the Keystone Cops part of the day kicks in. I'd heard from some southbounders that Bama was waiting for me at the next shelter. That's why I woke up so early - to try to reach that shelter (about 3.5 miles away) before she left. When I arrived at the shelter (around 7:30AM) I was informed by other hikers still there that she'd left about 45 minutes ago and had mentioned heading to Hwy 12 where our guide books mention an ice cream place close to the trail. Long day for me, but I figured I'd keep walking as long as my energy level sustained me. Somewhere in those 14-15 miles, I apparently walked right by a note Bama left me indicating she was waiting for me at some lookout point. I remember seeing the sign for the side trail to the lookout, but no note...and I frankly wasn't looking for more miles to hike today, so I skipped it and moved on. I had lunch at the second shelter and saw no note from Bama in the register, so I assumed she moved on to Hwy 12 as I'd been told she would. No Bama at Hwy 12 or at the ice cream place, so I figured she'd decided to move on. The gal at the ice cream place asked me if I was thru-hiking. When I said yes, she mentioned an inn nearby in Woodstock that "takes in thru-hikers." We called and they did have a room available, but I would have to find a way to get there - about four miles away.I sat on the porch of the ice cream place to mull over my options. As I was mulling, a car pulls up and a lady runs up and asks, "Are you the thru-hiker who called? Oh thank goodness - I was worried I'd miss you. Hop in the car!" I was floored. Charlotte and Cary run an 1800's era inn - it's gorgeous. She's walked me through all of these wonderful rooms, explaining that breakfast is at 8:30, and then showed me my room which was beautifully decorated, has a king sized bed, and a private bathroom. (Recall that last night I spent the night opening up a tent fly to puke every hour or so.) But that's not it! I asked her how much I owe her, half expecting to hear something well over $100 - possibly $200. "Nothing. It's free. Consider it trail magic," she replied with a smile. I was rendered speechless and practically burst into tears.That's when I called Scott and found out (through various phone messages among him, Bama, and her husband Bill) that Bama is actually BEHIND me now after waiting for me for four hours at the lookout. And the worst part is that she's not here with me to enjoy this incredible trail magic. I feel grateful beyond words for Charlotte's and Cary's generosity, but just awful that I'm hogging it all to myself. Left Bama a phone message about what had happened and where I was, but it may have been a little late for her to move on at that point. Hopefully, we'll reconnect tomorrow or for sure in Hanover on Friday. When we do, I fully expect her to (deservedly) slap me upside the head.How does a day that begins with me gagging my way up mountains end with me tucked between clean crisp king-sized sheets in an 1800's inn FOR FREE? This stuff just doesn't happen at home.