Date: 2010-06-05
From: Maupin Field

To: Rockfish Gap (Waynesboro, VA)
Miles today: 20.8
Weather: overcast clouds

The hike out of Maupin Field Shelter is grueling, covering some of my least favorite hiking terrain. For 10 miles after the shelter I walk along mountainsides and ridges covered with rock and boulders, in many cases the hillside resembling a rock slide that the trail is cobbled over. It's difficult to find any rhythm and there's no 'mindless' hiking here, each step requiring the briefest of thought before placement. It's also a warm day and inexplicably for the first time on the trail I've developed some irritating chafing under my arms and sides where the straps meet my body. The skin is red, itchy, and raw and I adjust my pack straps to try and alleviate the pressure, sometimes hiking with my hands underneath the straps to lift the weight off this tender area. At first I attribute it to a sweaty shirt but I've certainly sweated PLENTY of times on the trail. A new theory develops later that day when I speak with another hiker with the same inexplicable, first-time chafing. This hiker also stayed at the Dutch Haus while I was there and his theory is that the chafing is caused by the detergent used to wash our clothes. I hadn't thought of this but his affliction coinciding with mine begins to move his theory beyond the anecdotal. The day is hot and I go through my 2 liters of water easily still 2 miles before the stream I need to refill from. I filter my water and guzzle thirstily when I finally get there. Another surprise also awaits by the creek, 'Jason's Mom' is set up to give out trail magic, making salami, lettuce, and cheese sandwiches and pulling small ice creams out of a cooler for dessert. Thank you Jason's Mom!I stay in Waynesboro tonight which is a 4.5 mile hitch off the trail. Several cars pass before I get a ride from some former hikers who drop me at the local outfitter. The shoes I purchased just last week in Daleville are not working, the balls of my feet feeling as rough, raw and bruised as ever. I hate to do this but I've still got over 1300 miles to go and finding the right shoe is paramount not only to my success but enjoyment on the trail; hiking fatigue is one thing but hiking in physical pain is something else entirely. I spend an hour trying on shoes before making a selection, hoping that it feels as good on the trail as it does in the store. My purchase is later vindicated to some degree when I arrive at the hostel and chat with Rest Stop who is a former thru-hiker and just so happens to be wearing the same shoe, assuring me that I'll be happy with my purchase. Assurances like this from people who've already hiked the trail always carry more cred.The Lutheran Church hostel is a great little stop, offering shower and cot in the air conditioned Fellowship Hall. They also have movies, snacks, and internet and all of this on a donation basis. Very generous and very much appreciated. After the long, hot day I'm pretty tired and after a shower head to my cot to look over the map and mileage for my next week in Shenandoah National Park where the trail closely parallels the famous Skyline Drive for the next 100 miles. Walk on!