Date: 2023-05-14
From: Campsite near Priest Mountain Overlook 

To: Campsite near Trail to Humpback Picnic Area
Miles today: 21.3

The Priest Mountain overlook near the outcropping of rocks faces west, so there was no reason to expect a fantastic sunrise view. Yet, because of the rain the night before, waves of clouds appeared in front of the surrounding mountains and gave an impressive view against a blue, pink and yellow sky.I got moving at 7 again, heading down the Priest summit. I had climbed up it southbound many times, with this time being the first descent northbound. I had hoped I could get down there quickly. But, the descent still had many rocks. It was rugged enough to require over 90 minutes of descending for me.Once I got to the Tye River, I had a 3000 feet climb up Three Ridged Mountain, over six miles. On my way up, I ran I to a few day hikers and other thru hikers. One was a blind woman. I am impressed that someone who is not able to navigate using vision or enjoy views has the desire and skill to hike the 2200-mile trail.I took one extended break around 10:30 at the first viewpoint, and got to Maupin Field Shelter for a privy break around 1:15.I got to Reid's Gap at 2:15, where I was delighted to see a trail magic table under a canopy! Rainbow, who thru hiked the AT last year, had hot dogs, mini candy bars, bags of chips, fruit, filtered water, carbonated refreshments, and Double Stuf Oreos. What a spread! I spent a good 45 minutes there.She lives nearby, and does work for an AT conservation nonprofit. I chatted with her, Pottery Doug - another trail angel, Ripper, and Hot Sauce. Hot Sauce, who is from Philadelphia, makes his own sauces from scratch. He offered to send out hot sauces to people he meets on the trail, if they request it. I just might take him up on his offer!Despite all this great food, I had heard great things about the support that Devil's Backbone Brewery and Basecamp provides for thru hikers. I had read about shuttles to and from Reid's Gap, free camping, and an awesome breakfast that only costs $5. It is 5 miles east on VA 664, right off of Reid's Gap, where that highway and the BRP intersect with the AT. I also had said that I had no more dinners left, and a big meal there should help for the night.Ripper was leaving with Pottery Dan, as he was going to drive him to a hostel a couple miles west on the BRP. But before he did that, he gave me three of his backpacking meals! I was pleasantly surprised. I wish I would have remembered to give him some money for them. I graciously thanked him.Around 3, I set off for Devil's Backbone. I walked for over an hour and no one stopped to give me a lift. At least it was sll downhill. After I was close to accepting that I'd have to walk the whole way, a van stopped. It was Pottery Doug, with Ripper in tow! He gave me a ride the rest of the way there - what a great guy. I hope I can have an ounce of the heart of gold he has.Ripper and I went to the brewery, and had our big meal. Ripper told me about retiring at 30, and his treks and surfing along the Pacific Coast from Mexico all the way go South America. He wants to go to southeast Asia next. Sounds amazing - maybe Bali.After exploring and using their wifi a bit, I asked about shuttles. An employee there said they don't really run them regularly anymore, and they also don't offer the breakfast. I guess what I had read was pre-pandemic services, when they got a lot more revenue from hikers. She said someone could do a shuttle back when they start their shift at 11 tomorrow. Better than nothing, but very late and presumably hot for what would be a 19 mile hike to Rockfish Gap, where I hoped to get a shuttle to Waynesboro to resupply and rest at a hostel. She said she could drop me back off in a half hour when her shift ended, so I went with that instead. Ripper was happy staying the night there and taking one more day on the trail to get into town early.I started back at Reid's Gap at 7. I ended up hiking until 9:30, where I found a dry campsite near a blue blazed trail up to a rock that had no view, about a mile and a half south of the Humpback Mountain summit. I was in time to see views of the sunset at the overlooks, but hiked in the dark for a good hour.