Date: 2015-06-08
From: David Lesser Memorial Shelter

To: US340 underpass, Harper's Ferry Hostel
Miles today: 12.2
Weather: clear sky

It never did rain last night, but never mind...I got a good night's sleep in the shelter, and had a quick and easy pack - up in the morning, getting me on the Trail by 7am. Of course, since I was the first NOBO hiker on the Trail for the day, that also meant first to break all the cobwebs, ugh. And no, I wasn't bored enough to count how many times I wiped them away with my bandana, because I was too busy trying to walk through the minefield of rocks in the Trail. I included one photo as an example of what it's like, but really, a picture doesn't do it justice...you just have to live it. Miles of it. It's mind-numbing and physically exhausting. Plus there's the sore foot...Hence, the ipod has gotten quite a workout the past two days as a means of distraction, and is currently being charged up again in readiness for the next round. Anyhow, I survived the section of rocks, had smooth trail for a short time, said goodbye to Virginia, entered West Virginia, went through more rocks, and across a bridge next to the Shenandoah River. Then i climbed up rock stairs to get to the ATC visitors center in Harper's Ferry Upper Town...where I was able to take off my pack for a while, have a cold drink, get a few items from the hiker box, recharge my phone, buy some souvenirs, see the room - sized relief map replica of the AT (yes the one Bryson talked about in AWITW) and notice how far I still have to go, weigh myself (fully clothed and after a Dr. Pepper, close to my pre-hike weight), and more importantly, have my photo taken out front to be entered into this year's records as NOBO thru hiker #491. It's a big deal to make it this far, just shy of halfway. Feels like the hike is official.After having a few questions answered, advice received from the workers there, and visiting with other hikers that came in, I walked to Lower Old Town to spend the afternoon, mostly eating. After inspecting most of the menus I decided to eat at the outside back patio of the Hostel/Inn there, partly since it was shaded (quite hot today) and partly because I could get a crab - cake sandwich there, which was delicious, as was the veggie - loaded romaine salad. Afterwards I went down the hill to the Coffee Mill to have an iced latte on their patio, which was decidedly less shady and not nearly as cool. I read the 2nd chapter of the book I've been lugging around since Waynesboro, finally (at this rate I'll still be reading that book after I get to Katahdin...). For dessert I got a coffee/toffee ice cream cone, and while eating it I wandered across to the train depot, where I sat on a bench facing the tunnel a ways down the tracks. I took a photo for my brother, then heard a train horn, and was able to snap a series of shots as it came up the track and passed me, about 10 feet away. The noise and wind were something else as it whizzed past! I decided I'd better head toward the hostel I hoped to stay at tonight, just as a bank of dark clouds rolled in. I quickly dropped my pack and put on the rain cover, expecting a free cold shower any moment. But the clouds merely passed over, at the time. Fortunately for the sake of dry shoes, I was able to make good time for three miles of AT on flat, easy towpath (reminded me of home!) and to the hostel, which had plenty of beds open, before the storm did let loose. My shower was exquisitely refreshing, my laundry washed and done in a snap, and I found plenty of wonderful free food here, plus a pantry with fixings for make-your - own cupcakes (chocolate) and frosting (buttercream) and ice cream in the freezer to go on top. Nice people, great conversation, and a comfortable bunk round out the stay, with the added bonus of an in-house trail angel volunteer to drop me back at the Trail in the morning to save me walking the extra 1.2 miles of road again. My feet are both happy for shorter miles today, too. Happy is good.