Date: 2016-06-30
From: Mt Katahdin

To: White House Landing
Miles today: 0.0

Walking on the happy side of misery(Borrowing a phrase from Model-T)I flew into Bangor Maine where I met The Solar Wolf at the airport. He is a flip flopper ( started In Georgia, hiked to Irwin TN, now hiking south to Irwin). Shared a taxi to hotel, shuttle next day to Baxter State Park, and stories. He asked what cell coverage I was using, said that att has the worst coverage on the trail. I told him I didn't care since I planned to use my cell in towns only.Got to Baxter later than expected and didn't start hike up Mt Katahdin till 11:45. Started out on nice wooded trail for about a mile and half, then turns up steeply where trail is a steam when rains are heavy, eventually you get to bolder field and the climb is a slow climb pulling your self up thru the rubble of rock. At the bolder field started to get windy and in a cloud with visibility at 30-40 feet and thunder in distance. Got to table lands and eventually the summit at 4:30-5, had a snack, took photos and worked my way down. My legs felt heavy and tired from climbing Mt St Helens on Sunday, which made Mt K more difficult. Got back to camp at 7:30, warmed up cassoulet for dinner and went to sleep. Woke up to heavy rain a few times. Up at 5:30 and shuttled my stuff to a covered table to cook breakfast and pack, and to keep out of rain. Had to register at ranger station and started hiking south at 7:30 in moderate rain. Passed Muffin and She Wolf in bog putting on deet since mosquitos were bad. I stopped and did the same. Should have put on gators too but wanted to get going. Didn't put on rain gear - too hot. Got soaked hiking and fell in the river at the second ford, feet only but boots were soaked. Stopped at abol bridge for lunch and hot cocoa. 13 miles in to a 20, feet were starting to hurt along with shoulders on my way to Rainbow Lake camp. Changed socks at that point and found that my feet were getting raw. Did pass under eagle 8' up in branch above me along a river. Trail most of day was muddy rooted and rocky. Slipped on roots twice and went down. Views were lovely most of day of swamps, ponds, lakes and rivers. Sun did try to come out with no success. At camp around 6 and started to set up tent in light rain. Started downpour half way through and tent filled up with water. Had to sponge out, but still wet along with some of my stuff. Rained on and off thru the night, but the sound of the loons on the lake was beautiful. They woke me up at 1:00 am and sometimes sound like coyotes. Slept ok, packed up wet tent to clearing sky's and hiking by 7. Slippery roots and rocks for most of the day, but wild life started to come out. A lot of toads, frogs, snakes, birds. Also a lot of moose dung, but no moose yet. Midway thru day, noticed I was getting thigh chafe. Later butt chafe too and my feet were starting to really hurt. Eventually nipple chafe started too. I had been sweating so heavily that salt was collecting in my clothes. Met a few hikers who told me about White House landing, a bunk house that can be reached by boat, and owner will pick you up at dock if you call. It would make my 18 mile day into a 21, but I thought it would be worth it - shower, laundry and dry out my stuff. At 16 miles the dogs (feet) were barking. With every extra mile they got worse and at 21 they were chewing on my ankles. At dock turned on cell - no service. I was done at that point but decided to hike the extra mile to a spot across the lake from White House. Called across the lake - nothing. Did that 5 times, tried my cell again - one bar in and out and called Bill, the White House owner - voice mail. About 5 minutes later I heard a boat start and bill came across to get me. At the dock at the landing I was greated by Trapper, a big lovable 11 month old black lab. Some of you know that I love dogs, but especially labs. Trapper just wanted to lick my face, which ordinarily would be fine, but I was covered in deet and didn't want him to get sick from it. Once up on the dock, Trapper got a few minutes of belly rubs. This was a savior and a turning point for the remainder of the 100 mile wilderness. Showered, dried my stuff out, slept in a comfortable bunk, and started the day with eggs, bacon, English muffin followed by pancakes - and coffee of course. Next day's hiking were hard but glorious. The landing sits on a beautiful point on the lake. I could picture wasting a few days there just staring out at the water.