Date: 2004-04-02
From: Cheese Factory Campsite

To: Dick's Creek
Miles today: 12.7

I'm starting to get perma-grin around mid-morning now. It's been 3 days in a row like this and I can't really explain it. The worst part of my whole day is usually getting out of my warm sleeping bag in the morning and facing the chilly air. I put it off as long as possible until I risk peeing in my pants, then I move out really fast in one big blur. But that's pretty much the worst, well maybe washing out my mug after morning oatmeal - that kinda sucks because my hands get really cold again and the whole oatmeal warming effect is lost, but if I had to choose it would be the inital wake-up and pee routine. But after my 1 1/2 hour morning routine of packing up camp (isn't that forever? I don't know why I am so slow, seriously) I start to feel pretty awake and mildly warm and I head out slowly letting my muscles warm up and my body dictate my speed. Somewhere around mid-morning my pace picks up and I get warm and lose a layer of clothes and I start to feel really good. Maybe I get a glimpse of sun (not lately) or a spectacular view or a dumb little bird or a great song in my head and I notice that I am smiling. It's the best kind of smile there is too because it's a private smile complimenting my private little world in my head and I feel totally radiant, despite the awful weather lately or blisters or poor night of sleep. Today I hiked entirely alone and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I started out a few days ago with a group of people but some folks bailed and others spread out along the trail. Although I keep meeting new people everyday and manage to have company at the shelters at night, I really enjoy having the whole day to myself. I like my own pace and my own agenda and stopping whenever I want and not being bound to the needs of others. The truth is that I think this is a solo hike anyway. I could probably manage to hike with people or buddy up and share cookware and damn near move in, but I think at the end of the day no matter how many you've managed to surround yourself with, it's a solo hike. Period. And the quicker I can get with that the more I will appreciate it.Last night was incredibly cold. 20 degrees F with near katabatic winds that sounded like airplanes racing round the mountains and flying overhead. Along the lines of the principle that a bridge will freeze before a road surface, my low-hanging hammocked butt was an ice cube and there was little I could do about it. I tried wrapping my jacket around myself and adjusting my insulating pad, but to no avail. I knew I would never fall asleep being that cold. Eventually I had to get out of my hammock and lower it to the ground fixing the rainfly overhead as a windscreen. I had to crawl on my belly to get in and out but I was much warmer and managed to fall asleep after midnight. Still woke with cold toes though. Apparently this cold wave will pass, but it has been a bit tough hiking daily in cold, cloudy, incredibly windly weather. At the mountain peaks I often encounter snow making for muddy, slippery descents. Tonight should be the same, but I have made it to Dick's Creek today and hitched into Hiawassee to use the internet at the public library. After I leave I will head over to the Blueberry Patch Hostel to pick up my food drop and stay the night there before heading back out to the trail in the AM. I'm thinking when I hit the NOC (see my mail drops page) I will swap my hammock for a tent. So much for swinging in the trees.I am now a believer. There are a ton of funny little trail terms that hikers use to refer to trail life and happenings. Using these terms properly in a complete sentence gains one entrance to the private country club of the AT thru-hikers, and inventing new terms puts you in a league of your own. But everyone keeps using the term "trail magic" - trail magic this and trail magic that to refer to unexpected good fortunes or generosities bestowed upon you by others along the trail. Whenever I hear it, my first reaction is the Olivia Newton John song "Magic" and my second reaction is that I didn't don a Star Wars costume to the opening of episode one and I don't believe in magic. I have since been reborn. In the middle of my cold hike just as it was starting to hail and I was getting hungry I started seeing signs on neon cardboard advertising free food and drinks on the trail. I couldn't believe it and the signs swore it wasn't a April fools trick. There was a new sign every 20 yards or so listing cookies, sandwiches, chocolate, and a huge campfire, etc., I let myself get excited and mildly emotional and picked up the pace. When I got to Addis Gap the signs pointed off the AT (which is a white rectangular blaze about 2 x 4 inches) to a blue blazed trail. Since it was only 1/2 mile out of the way I decided to go for it, but was wary of being tricked and deeply dissappointed. I walked for about 10 minutes and smelled no food or campfire and heard no voices. Just as I was thinking of turning back I rounded the corner and saw a huge campsite with a food tent, beer kegs, and campfire complete with hikers gorging themselves. I know it's cheesy but I got a little teary-eyed and then headed for the goldmine.Kelly, Moo-moo and others gave me a hearty welcome, a full yummy lunch, and then stuffed my pockets with fun sized Snickers before I left ('fun sized' is so stupid and come to think of it, so is 'king sized'. if the label on the wrapper is supposed to elicit feelings of elation or royalty, they're in denial. it's just chocolate, boys). I kept thanking them and telling them how grateful I was / am. This is their vacation and they have been doing this for 11 years for no reward other than the satisfaction of watching us thru-hikers become weak and weepy at their generosity. They don't take any money for this service, they just come and camp at Addis Gap every year with van loads of food and good cheer. They have converted me, hallelujah. One of the most impactful parts of this journey has been living off of the goodwill and generosity of others. Makes me rethink human nature. I think of you guys everyday. Glad you are with me.