Date: 2004-09-20
From: Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to

To: Mahar Tote Rd. - White House Landing
Miles today: 13.8

Day #190"It is not so much for its beauty that the forest makes a claim upon men's hearts, as for that subtle something, that quality of air, that emanation from old trees, that so wonderfully changes and renews a weary spirit." ~ Robert Lewis SteversonWoke up at 5:00 to the musical sounds of the waterfalls. The crisp chilly air rode a mild breeze. First light revealed an orange sun rising in a blue sky and all indications pointed to a beautiful day. There was an energy of excitement as hikers woke up from their warm cocoons of sleeping bags. I thought this electricity was due to the majority of the lean-to population going to Whithouse Landing Wilderness Camp. I was wrong; Mother Nature had other plans in store for us. I was on the trail at 6:45 leaving the lean-to behind. Another temporary home in a succession of many that has made this trek an unforgettable 6 months. I walked beside Cooper Brook for many miles. A tumbling torrent of water at first, then it would gently flow into currents of a slow moving river. The morning sun would bounce its beams of sunlight off the ripples and the reflections looked like tinsel on a Christmas tree as the water slowly gathered in ponds. The forest sat on rolling hills with small streams criss-crossing the landscape. Groves of majestic red pine trees greeted me as I walked through Antlers Campsite. The camp was even more natural being void of people. Just past the Potaywadjo Lean-to was a trail and a sign post stating "viewpoint - view of Katahdin." Joker, Lorax, Spiceman and Party Girl were ahead of me going down the blue blaze trail. The trail went through the trees to the shores of Pemadumcook Lake. Reaching the lake, my eyes squinted from the sunlight reflecting off the water to see an ordinary mountain across the lake. I was disappointed thinking it was Katahdin. I looked to my right and saw a lake shoreline of trees. Everyone is pointing to my left with excitement. And there it was ¢¦ the culmination of a six month hiking pilgrimage, the shrine of all north bound thru-hikers, Katahdin. I had a crystal clear view of the majestic mountain with a blue sky as a backdrop. The alpine area was distinguished by the tree line stopping 3/4's of the way up the slope. "Kette-Adene" or Katahdin means "Greatest Mountain" to the Native Americans and today it was. The other two possible sightings I had of Katahdin were maybes but now before my eyes stood a confirmation, the northern terminus, and the final chapter to my journey.Back on the AT, we walk another mile and a half to a blue blaze that will take us to Whitehouse Landing. A dock at the end of the blue blazes dangles an air horn attached to a sign with instructions. We blow the air horn and within minutes a small motor boat is heading in our direction to pick us up.The boat ride is a short hop across the lake to Whitehouse Landing wilderness camp. The camp overlooks the lake and consists of a lodge, a bunkhouse, a bathhouse and several cabins. 18 hikers are in camp tonight. The majority of these hikers have been with me for the last several weeks: Spiceman, Joker, Lorax, Party Girl, Don't Mind, Don't Matter (husband and wife we call the Don'ts), Beagle, Moo-juice, Poppins, Skippy, Enigma and Crash Bang. We are a special group, a group tied together in a six month odyssey. We have walked 2174 miles through 14 states; we have shared moments together and now we will summit Katahdin within 48 hours ¢¦ and say goodbye.