Date: 2004-05-03
From: Brown Gap

To: Erwin, Tennessee
Miles today: 0.0

"I would rather wake up in the middle of Nowhere,Than in any city on earth."- Steve McQueenRebel with a cause blamed me for having a journal full of music quotes... Well, sorry - that's me..."I'm so glad, I'm glad, I'm glad I'm glad"- Jack Bruce/CreamI am trying a new format for my journal. Rather than bore everyone, or the only person actually reading this crap, with the daily day to day stuff I am going to just update for the sections I just walked. We finally got out of Hot Springs and away from the vortex like pull of one of my favorite trail towns... We upgraded our tarp situation to a 10X12 chateau of a green tarp. This thing is bigger than most of the shelters. As Jason would say, I am stylin and profilin... I also bought shelter shoes and new Montrail TRS Comps. My old ones were so worn and I got tired of making Day Tripper laugh everytime I fell. We headed out of town and up to the dam and pond just a mere five miles out of town. Baltimore Jack (one cool dude) had told us about a strand of pines across the pond and up a hill that had great camping spots. We stopped there, set up our Chateau and roasted wieners over an open fire. I played around with our new digital camera and took many pictures of nothingness. Someday I will post these. I am currently reading Edward Abbey's "Abbey Road". A collection of short stories from one of my favorite authors. We spent the day lollygagging around our campsite. We walked past the fruit trees planted for grouse and wild turkeys down to the pond and watched the world spin. Lazy daze puffing on the hay the nubian way (Hey Jimmy Deanne - guess the lyric there). Got up early the next day and hiked on to Little Laurel Shelter. Nothing spectacular except some beautiful flowers up near Rich Mountain Fire Tower. Also, if you are camping in this area there are fantastic campsites very near the screened water source here. We hiked onto Spring Mountain Shelter and had a quick lunch of pepperoni, cheddar cheese and bagels. Might sound like crap to you but it was a virtual delight out here. The walking was easy and the weather beautiful. I thought about getting water but decided on trucking on instead. The data book says there is water on the way down to Allen Gap. Got to Allen Gap and didn't find water worth drinking so decided to keep forging forward to Little Laurel. It is funny hopw when you run out of something you instantly start craving it. We ran out of water shortly before Log Cabin Drive. I started to think about St. Exupery's time in the desert when he crashed landed his plane and barely survived for five days without water. My mouth was so parched. It's humorous how our minds work. All I could think about was water, or more precisely the lack of water. At home you can just turn a faucet or go to the store and by what I drink for free in the woods. The data book listed no water source till the shelter. We tried getting water at the two summer houses on the way up. No such luck. I did manage to find a spring in a crevace along the way up. The cool water tasted better than any champagne I have ever drank. Energy and life had been restored to my weary bones. The mind is your greatest enemy. We found a nice campsite next to the shelter and pitched our Chateau. So roomy. I set it low to block the wind. Daytripper and I played cards, burnt incense and laughed into the night. She is my heart and I love her so much. In the early AM it started to rain. Packing in the rain always sucks so we stayed in bed till it died down. The climb up out of Little Laurel was long and tiring. God am I out of shape. Finally at the top we sat, took pictures than continued on down the trail. I love the woods, particularily when it is misty and rainy. I love the dank smell of the deep forest green. We decided against visiting Blackstack Cliffs. To foggy to actually get a view. We got to the new relocation at what I think is Big Firescald Knob. Two paths diverged into the woods... I took the one with the warning signs and it made all the difference. This relo was a true joy to hike; up and down rocky steps with fantastic views thru cloud shrouded mountain tops. In this short one mile or so walk we took at least 15 pictures and probably an hour. The wind was cold and brisk towards the exposed rock tops. We walked on thru some of my favorite land along the AT. The section before Howard Basettes grave is gorgeous. After Howard is some beautiful flat forest walking. I stopped at the Shelton Graves to take pictures (I always do for some reason...) The Sheltons were an uncle and nephew from North Carolina that both enlisted in the Union army. They were returning to NC for a family function when they were ambushed by Confederate soldiers. I find this stuff fascinating.We stopped at Flint MOuntain Shelter and said hello to Sheriff, Swiss Miss, the two older gentlemen who hike faster than me, Fly (Finally Loving Yourself) and Dreamcatcher. Fly reminds me of an older version of Rambunny, or what Rambunny will eventually mutate into when she gets older. No offense fly... I think you are cool. We camped at the campsite just north of the shelter. Feasted on Chili Noodles and beanless Chili and listened to some very haunting and scary moans eminating from the valleys below.The next morning we woke up and headed down to Devils Fork Gap (appropriately named considering those damned souls screaming all night long. Go rent Dawn of the Dead and listen to those zombies wail. We passed more graves, beautiful waterfalls and old, mildewing remains of an old log cabin. The hiking today seemed more up than down. Both of us were dragging ass when we got to Sam's Gap. We neglected to stop at Hogback Ridge Shelter because we had diner on the mind. Ray Charles can have Georgia, I want the diner! Got to Sam's Gap and almost cried. I forgot about the "new" highway that bypasses the town with the diner. An almost inpossible hitch. We sat by the side of the road eating Indian curried Chicken (or is it Jamaican?). Talked with Sheriff and Swiss Miss. UNloaded garbage and hiked on down the trail. Stopped at first water source and found out that Fly knows names of plant life. A walking encyclopedia, or so it seems. Kept walking till we hit Low Gap. Forgot about the beautiful field about one mile before. Last time thru it was freezing and snowing. It is amazing how much development is occuring along or near Big Bald (5,516'). Camped with roots in our backs, comfortable and happy. Ate noodle soup and dreamed of food in Erwin.Woke up after early morning showers. Decided to do a 21 mile day into Erwin. Packed up and did the climb to what used to be called Greer Bald. Greer was a crazed man who lived in a cave up top and declared himself king of the proverbial mountain. He was finally gunned down by a local blacksmith. I though about him all the way up. The menacing clouds finally poured on us on the wind swept roof of the world. Skiied thru mud to the next shelter. Am amazed at other hikers leaving their fuel pods at shelter like their mother is gonna come clean up after them. I am starting to get the bug to hike in more rmote areas of the world to avoid the garbage and used toilet paper that is more common along the AT. Got to High Rocks (4,100') in the pouring rain. Today is a hero day in town... Restocking... Laundry and food.Good Bye till Damascusp.s. A big thanks to Frank and Brian at the Duckett House and to everyone at Bluff Mountain Outfitters. Without angels like these folks the world would be a darker placeWit Wa Da DaPeace and UNityASWAH and the Golden Pimp Boots