Date: 2017-05-31
From: Stealth Campsite near Audie Murphy Monument 

To: VA 624, Newport Road/Four Pines Hostel 
Miles today: 11.7
Weather: few clouds

5/31Stealth Campsite near Audie Murphy Monument at Mile 690.7 to VA 624, Newport Road/Four Pines Hostel 11.7 milesTotal miles:  702.4I had quite a hike today and packed a lot into those 11.7 miles. I was up as usual and ready to go by 7:30.  Juan Gone, who gets ready faster than I do in the morning, left at 7:15.  We said goodbye for now and gave each other a hug, since it's hard to know if we'll see each other again on the trail. Of course, it's a long way to Maine, and we do have each other's phone numbers.  I said goodbye to Just Susan, wished her luck, and hiked away.  Up the trail to the Audie Murphy Monument. . .  Sigh.  Will I ever learn?  I walked back down to the AT and headed north.  As Just Susan indicated, the first several miles were easy. I saw several squirrels and heard many more scurrying about. I also saw another deer. I got water at Trout Creek.  I had a little less than a pint left when I got there, so it was a good thing I packed extra water to the campsite. I then made the climb up Cove Mountain. At the top, the fun began.  I worked my away across numerous large rock formations.  Often, the only way to tell which way the trail went was to head toward the next blaze painted on either a tree or the rocks themselves. Along the way, I met fellow thru hikers, Karma and B.B. King. Karma is from Roanoke and has already hiked this section many times.  There was one particularly challenging rock scramble where I couldn't find a blaze or see where the trail went.  Karma and B.B. King were behind me and graciously pointed me in the right direction as I moved aside to let them pass.  After two miles of hiking the ridgeline, I came to the side trail to Dragons Tooth.  Dragons Tooth is a huge stone monolith that towers in the sky.  Karma and B.B. King were eating lunch at its base. Karma told me that some people climb to the top of the Tooth.  I checked the Guidebook (not really) to confirm that the AT did not run up the Tooth and was content with photographing it.  I walked back to the AT and ate my lunch before tackling the descent from Dragons Tooth.  I had been warned that it was very tricky and easy to get confused and off trail.  Coming down that section was amazing. There were two places where metal hoops have been driven into the rock faces to aid in getting down them. Everywhere else, it was up to you to figure it out. There were several places where I literally crept along a three inch wide ledge on the rock face for many feet as I worked my way down to the next level.  At one notable spot, it took me several minutes to figure out what to do as I clung to the side of the rock face and tried to puzzle it out. The obvious route led to a dead end, a five foot sheer drop to the surface below.  I finally realized that I needed to go up a different ledge which led to another ledge only three feet below it. I was then able to follow that ledge down to the lower ledge which allowed me to drop only a few feet onto the floor of that section.  In addition, there were steep rock staircases and jumbles of boulders to circumnavigate.  I chose to sit on my butt several times and scoot along a slanted boulder and then slide to the level below.  All the while, I needed to keep a sharp eye out for blazes, since it was quite possible to go the wrong way, usually in a direction that, at least initially, seemed easier. It was an absolute blast.  I know that the more nimble hikers probably weren't as challenged as this old, stove up man, but it was both a physical and a mental puzzle to make it down.  After getting to the end of the most challenging descent, I then hiked the two more miles that were only punctuated with rock and boulder crossings to Newport Road. Here I met E-Brake, who had just finished a twelve mile trail run on the AT.  It turns out that she works at the Four Pines Hostel, where I stayed tonight.  We walked the 0.3 miles together.  A past thru hiker (2015), she has also completed the PCT.  Four Pines is a wonderfully laid back  and informal hostel.  You pay by donation, except for laundry. I went in with two other hikers to cover the laundry fee. There is a beautiful grassy area behind the main building, and I opted to sleep in my tent. I learned that there was a shuttle leaving in a few minutes to the store, so I delayed my shower to go along.  I bought a large pizza, two large Gatorades, a banana, two cans of beer, a bag of Doritoes, and a cowtail (there was a display by the cash register).  Knowing that my hydration and calorie needs were temporarily met, we headed back to the hostel.  There were several hikers chilling by the main building, and Diogenes and Turquoise were there. I learned that Diogenes is an accomplished Jazz musician and singer.  He performed a bluesy version of "Billy Jean," which was spot on.  I took a shower, collected my laundry, and headed for my tent just as the rain began.  With fresh laundry and a clean me, Patricia will be spared the experience of hiker funk for our three hour ride to Johnson City tomorrow.  It will be odd getting off the trail after fifty-five days, but I am really looking forward to the convention and seeing my railroad friends.  I passed the 700 mile mark today (denoted quite delicately on the trail with flower petals) and am only a few miles from being one-third done.  The rain has pretty much subsided now as I wrap this up for the night.  I feel pretty pumped about the day and that I was too busy to remember my fear of heights as I worked my way down those rock faces. We all face real challenges in life, and I feel so blessed that I am able to take on a chosen challenge (let's face it, no one forces you to hike 2,191 miles). Perhaps this experience is giving me a deeper appreciation for those confronting the very real challenges that life has a way of throwing at us. On that note, I wish everyone reading this a peaceful and blessed good night.