Date: 2007-06-22
From: Manassas Gap Shelter

To: Sam Moore Shelter
Miles today: 19.7
Weather: overcast clouds

I had hoped to get an earlier start this morning because, by midday, I would be starting ¢The Roller Coaster¢, an infamous stretch of trail that scrambles up and down over 10 peaks for 13 rocky miles. I headed up the trail about 8 am. The vegetation was still wet from last night¢s rain and I was soon soaked from the waist down. After an hour or so the trailside vegetation dried out, and eventually so did I. Drying however, is relative given the high humidity left behind by yesterday evening¢s rain, last nights¢ heavy dew, and the heat of the day today.But, all this moisture is what keeps this eastern hardwood forest so lush and green. Multiple leaf layers rise from the forest floor to high overhead in the forest canopy, all varying shades of dark green. Rarely is there more than 25 yard visibility in any direction. This is the ¢long green tunnel¢ that VA is famous for, and what many hikers call the VA Blues, driving many off the trail for good. Few views, and all day every day always the same everywhere you look, deep green and more deep green, leaves and more leaves. I had read about the VA Blues and expected the state¢s 500+ mile long green tunnel to be a difficult test of attitude and endurance. I was completely wrong because I find now, near to leaving VA, that I have thoroughly enjoyed this long state with its huge trees and seemingly endless northern hardwood forest. I never seem to tire of the deep green forest whose color seems to be especially vibrant on rainy and overcast days.The trail this morning was gentle with easy tread and the miles seemed to pass quickly. There were a series of meadows in the Thompson Wildlife Management Area that provided an interesting diversion from the forest trails of most of the rest of the day. I past a sign saying Harpers Ferry, WV was only about 30 miles away; hard to believe I am nearly half way and still thoroughly enjoying walking every day!At Ashby Gap and the crossing of divided U.S. Highway 50 I tried briefly to hitch a ride to the general store nearby but soon gave up and walked there instead. After two rounds of cold drinks and ice cream, I walked back to the trail and continued north in a hot and humid midday. Hitchhiking has generally been difficult for me as a lone male with a backpack, whereas when I have hitched with female hikers, it seems much easier to get a ride. Alone, I must look like a lurking axe murderer to suburban moms in their minivans!I took a short break at Rod Hollow Shelter then began ¢The Roller Coaster¢. The trail quickly became rockier and much more strenuous with many short ups and downs, one right after another. However, aside from the midday heat and humidity, the trail didn¢t seem too bad to me and I managed to enjoy it in spite of the hype and warning signs. Because of the humidity I was running low on water and stopped at a spring to refill my camelback. Raindog was there, also watering up.I had last seen Raindog as I was trying to hitch into Front Royal and he was being dropped off heading north. I have really enjoyed this low-key and soft spoken guy who carries a big frame pack and sets a stout pace up the trail. He seems to have one of the most valuable attributes for a long-distance hiker, the ability to see the positive side of any situation and make light of the mundane hiker hardships that seem to get so many others down. It seems that this easy going attitude, more than good gear or strong hiking legs, is what gets hikers through the VA blues and keeps them heading north instead of heading off the Trail. Raindog will complete the trail in PA, and I am impressed by his quietly experienced and patient style.We hiked together off and on the rest of the way to Sam Moore Shelter where we both decided to stop for the night because it had begun to rain, again. I didn¢t have to meet my Dave at Snickers Gap until 12 noon tomorrow so didn¢t feel the need to rush 3 more miles in the rain to Bears Den Hostel. I hated to miss this hostel that is famous for its hiker hospitality. While cooking dinner I decided to stay in the shelter rather then tent beside it as I usually do because there was plenty of room and I wanted to get an early start tomorrow without having to deal with packing my gear in a small wet tent. It turned out to be a very pleasant and relaxing evening with a couple of weary but happy hikers in a dry shelter watching a good storm build nearby, descend on us and rain like hell for an hour or so, then pass on by.Tomorrow I¢ll meet my brother Dave and spend a few days at his house with him and his family. I also hope to rest my right ankle that continues to be weak on good days and painful by the end of many other days. Ankle pain has been a background annoyance and general fact of life since I popped it out of joint again on June 8 just before the James River crossing. I have been wearing a soft ankle support that I found in the supermarket in Buena Vista a couple days later and am sure it has helped, but would like to find something with more support. But if not, a few days off will certainly help.