Date: 2006-03-13
From: Rock Creek Gap Shelter

To: Franklin, NC
Miles today: 4.6
Weather: overcast clouds

Toenail update: The big one on the left foot hasn't peeled off yet but soon will. The middle one on the right foot isn't long for this world either.This did not turn out to be the day we planned, but it had its moments. We were doing a trip into ---- for resupply and the AYCE at the steakhouse. That worked fine. Like our last town visit, though, we stayed too long and listened to the weather report. I'm writing from a cheesy, hiker-smelling motel room. It's partially my fault.First they were calling for snow today. That changed. We started hearing about a dangerous storm coming in from the Midwest. High winds, heavy hail, touching off tornados, 2 deaths reported as of this afternoon. Probably not ideal hiking weather, but we were already in town. After a consensus discussion, we decided on a town night. We universally hate town nights. I of course, being the worrywort of the group, pictured us out on the trail climbing the steep slopes up to ---- shelter, using headlamps, pelted with hail and dangling fallen tree limbs. So the better safe blah blah blah won out.Good hike to start the day. Excellent time out to Winding Stair Gap to get our ride. A few good slopes some minor views. We got to the parking lot half an hour before our scheduled bus ride. Ron of course was late. Ajax, Monk and Milk Dud grabbed a hitch. 6 of us including Josh and Bush Whacker put out our thumbs just as Ron rumbled in. We got the congenial greeting and lots of backstory on his day so far. He had stops at 3 more trailheads and then town. It took about an hour and we ended where we had started. On a short bus, completely full, packs on our laps. Somewhere near town, Ron stopped at a gas station to schmooze while we hung on the bus. We figure he gets kickbacks from all the local businesses when he brings in a busload of hikers. His motels fill up the fastest.The buffet at the steak place made it worthwhile. Before the place opened we were all gaping from the parking lot at four food bars and a large dessert table. We were moaning, laughing, screaming. 13 of us mobbed a banquet table as soon as they opened the door. We were joined by last night's group from the shelter. They had joined us earlier on the bus when it made the 2nd stop at Winding Stair. So we filled our plates 3 or 4 times. Lots of salad including several macaroni and jello with marshmallow selections. I needed vegetables. There were 3 kinds of chicken, salisbury steak, ham, all gravies and fixings. I've grown very fond of collard greens.It took 3 plats for me to try everything. Dessert selections were endless. Every cake, pie or cookie plus ice cream and popsicles. I watched Tree Girl, the very slight hiker across from me polish off a cheesecake, pie and cookie at the same time from the same plate. We fell into the easy hiker comedy comraderie. We're all wandering back and forth with plates of food dressed in best ragged hiker style, all the men with 2 weeks beard. I leaned back in my chair laughing. I've completely given over to the lifestyle.We heard that the last 2 supply stops after this one are pretty meagre. Best to get all the food and advance it up the line to Fontana Dam. I've already got a small box going to NOC and my 1st food drop from Andrew going to Fontana. Not worried. No food out here goes to waste. I'll bounce anything extra up the ---After food, indecision and disorganization began. We set off on separate errands with only a vague notion on what time and where to meet to get out of town. Ajax and I got an easy hitch out to the grocery store. I did a major resupply, over $40. We're prepping for the Smokey Mountains and have line. After repacking in the parking lot, it was another easy hitch to the post office. I mailed a big box to NOC and will probably bounce it on to the dam.While waiting in line, a woman with a big smile walked in just to ask if I needed a ride out to the trail head. I thanked her but said that there were 8 of us altogether. It's like that when people know you're hiking the trail. They stop in stores, parking lots, etc. to ask about the hike and hikers. They always want to know where you're from. While talking to Andrew, I told him how nice people are in the South. He said, "Oh yes, they're nice, but wait until they find out you're a faigelah." Probably right. I guess this counts as the Bible Belt. There are hand made signs in windows and phone poles saying John 3:16 or Jesus or Pray. The last place we ate at in Georgia kept a Bible by the cash register in a box shaped like a copy of Gone With the Wind.After the post office we wandered back to Ron's motel. Filled with hikers. We ran into Swanson who spent a couple of days off trail for a root canal. His group seems to have reunited. Pinky, Curly, Sunshine, Tofurkey and Buddy, the only person out here who I genuinely dislike.We hung out with Little Brother and company from last night while waiting for the rest. Most of those guys are from Nashville. All into bluegrass and even play in bands. We'd had great bluegrass on the radio the night before. They're teens and 20-somethings who call themselves rednecks. They have the drinking skills,smoking skills, and tall stories to back up the claim.It was late when we all collected again. We figured we'd be at the trail head around 5.30 and have to do some night hiking to the shelter. Fine, I've wanted to do some night hiking. But the dark, plus inclines and bad weather not so interesting. Town is packed with hikers tonight they were waving and yelling from cars and backs of trucks while riding in. Hopefull it was weather warnings that got all of them off the trail too.So here we are in this room. A few minutes ago it started pouring. I ran out to collect all socks and boots, all drenched for tomorrow. We've got a 15 mile day planned to make up for today. Hiking the distance is fine, but I don't know why we have to move so fast. W're entering the balds which are supposed to be a highlight of NC hiking. No reason to rush through them. People do want to push it to get through the Smokies before another blizzard. Seems like the same mistake we've made the last 2 times around planning the weather. Having a great time with everyone but our personal preferences are coming out. We've got varying goals and interests. The guiding principle out here is "Hike your own hike." Right now we're doing it collectively. We'll see.Day ended with pizza, beer and Train picked up some popsicles. Just like I remember. The majority of popsicles in a box are always cherry.Tired now. Back to sleep.