Date: 2006-05-13
From: Dragon's Tooth

To: Catawba
Miles today: 10.4
Weather: broken clouds

Another wonderful day both on trail and off.Woke up early at Dragon's Tooth so I Could watch the sun rise between the rocks. Not the most beautiful I've seen on the trip, but I watched the light spill over the farms in the valley. For all of the climbing we did yesterday we could still hear noise from down below. It sounded like the cows were grazing in the woods behind our tents all night.It's Saturday and I had to be at the Catawba post office 8 miles away by 10:30. Based on past performance, I figured I'd fly in. Not so.The climb from the south side of Dragon's Tooth had been smooth switchbacks followed by a rocky ridge. The climb down was sheer drop, a completely exposed rock face requiring use of both hands and feet. Hiking poles we useless adn even a safety hazard. In a couple of spots steel rungs had been installed on higher verticle sections. It was a wonderful way to leave the tooth, especially with a full pack.From the bottom I figured it would be an easy chug through cow fields into Catawba. It would have been if somone hadn't thrown yet another mountain in the middle of the fields, a mountain with another long ridgeline that climbed and dipped a hundred times. Ordinarily this is just part of the hiking day. Today it was an unneeded between me and my foodbox.The ridge ended with a long series of switchbacks. I could later hear cars below me. Up ahead I saw a large black truck shooting up the road at the crossing. Only when I got there, there was no crossing. It took me a second to realize I'd seen my first bear. Centipede was back on a higher switch. I hoped she had a better look than me.At the bottom of the ridge, the trail dumped me into a parking lot with another mile to walk into town. I was on a highway, speed limit 55. No one was going to stop for a hiker. Catawba was exactly as described. A post office and a general store.My box was at the post office, no problem. Plus I got a bonus. While the post mistress searched for my package I scooped 3 handfuls of Tootsie Rolls out of the basket on the counter.I crossed the street to the General Store for a drink, snack, phone and two wait for the other two from Dragon's Tooth. I also asked about The Home Place, Catawba's trail famous family style all you can eat restaurant. They pointed to the sign right up the street. I love the little towns like this where all the things you need are a stone's thrown apart yet there is supposedly nothing in town. It's quiet, peaceful and green and they don't look at hikers like they have two heads.Actually I don't mind being looked at like I have to heads. I'd look at me like I had two heads. I wander into town ragged, dirty, smelly, pack on back, wearing a kilt. In most towns just off trail they know what you are doing and respect it. At the least you are a curiosity, different and a stranger. Get over your own self-conciousness though and you're treated like any visitor. People smile, wave, sometimes ask questions, sometimes don't. Temper their initial surprise and possible distaste with your own courtesy, respect and good humor and you're treated well in return.It's the day before Mother's Day and I called Pennsylvania to talk to a couple of them. Hope sounded great and so happy and a little tired. As soon as I heard her voice I remembered the days immediately after Elle was born. Now Elle carries on a good phone conversation. I talked to Mom who was obviously in her element surrounded by grandchildren. While I sat on the porch gulping Welch's Grape Juice and stuffing down fig newtons Parkay and Centipede came in off the road. It was an official reunion when Caboose and Walkabout showed up. It always seems like a celebration when hikers fresh from the trail find each other. That's trail magic in itself. Double the magic when you receive kindness from strangers.As four of us poured over shelves in the general store like it was a museum Caboose came in with and said that we all could have showers at the house next door. The couple had invited us in. We just had to climb over the fence so we wouldn't let the dogs out. That was fun. Centipede and i looked for a way to get over without flashing the town. Walkabout, also in a kilt, was already inside.The house and dogs were beautiful. The couple is from Colorado. She's a hiker. He's a lot of things including a champion ping-pong player. The place was spotless and in tramp five grubby hikers. I didn't touch anything in fear of leaving smears on the walls. I had a long hot shower and even used conditioner in my hair and beard. Luxury. Caboose said it was the first time she'd been in a real house since leaving Georgia. Same for me. I never did sit on their couch so the record still stands.After showers we lounged around and visited. They were happy to have us stay all day. At first we felt guilty but quickly got over it. Walkabouts' father was coming for a visit adn they were welcome wto wait until he arrived.We were all waiting for the restaurant to open. THe seven of us walked over in a group. The place is family style. The Waltons never had that much food going so many times around a table. Fried chicken, ham, potatoes, cole slaw, corn, beans, biscuits/ We all had at least 3 servings. Tables at either side of us emptied and filled twice. And, our hosts picked up the tab.Back at the house the 3 of us hiking out got last details taken care of. Including stopping again at the store for a jug of milk. As if we hadn't had enough hiker ecstasy already, earlier in the day. I spotted one box of Fruity Pebbles on the shelf behind the cash register. Parkay, Centipede and I stared at it like it was pirate's treasure. We're carrying out for trail breakfast tomorrow.I was ready to leave thinking the trail was calling and that we'd overstayed our welcome. Wrong. Walkabout's father arrived and everyone was in the garage watching and getting pointers from the ping pong champion. The place is full of trophies and he has a machine on one side of the table that serves balls a various angles and speeds. Everyone got a turn in the batting cage.Watching the others I let go of all my hiker guilt. I Kept telling myself to take time to enjoy the unexpected. Here it was and the others had thrown themselves into it without a qualm. I picked up a paddle and did the same.It was dark when we finally got back to the trailhead. We'd done 8 miles into town. There were 2 shelters a mile apart on the way out. Great weather for a night hike. We woke up Mr. Breeze staying at the first one. Parkay gave him a beer, I gave him a tootsie roll and we told him about the unexpected magic in town. The next shelter had a barking dog so we pitched tents a little further up the way. Another day on the AT.