Date: 2009-12-19
To: Hot Springs to Erwin
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

I do this 69 mile section over four or five days, depending. By now, having put over 250 miles on your new boots, you¢ll find it much easier to kick it up a notch occasionally on the daily hiking distance. In ¢05, my stops included Little Laurel Shelter ¢ a 19.8 mile day out of Hot Springs, followed by Flint Mountain Shelter (12.7 miles), Low Gap Camp site (15.0 miles), No Business Knob Shelter (14.5 miles), and then into Erwin (6.7 miles). In ¢09, I discovered the Hemlock Hollow Hostel and Cabins, a shorter 16.7 miles from Hot Springs, which I highly recommend. On Day Two, I made it to Flint Mountain Shelter and, on Day Three I intended to stay at the Low Gap camp site. It was rather abandoned-looking, however, which I attributed to a weak water source, so I sucked it up and hiked a total of 19 miles on into Big Bald Shelter. On Day Four I was going to just do 11 miles into No Business Knob Shelter, with a short 6.7 mile final day into Erwin. The trail was pretty easy, however, and there was a lot of down-hill on switch-backs into Erwin, so I went for it. I then took a zero day in Erwin, but that was mostly related to my injured (and by now infected) toe, which is a whole ¢nuther story, and not a very pleasant one, so don¢t get me started¢¦I think this year, I¢m likely to take it a bit easier and stick with a five day schedule. Enjoy the journey, so to speak. One reason I decided to stay at Hemlock Hollow last year was that my friends and I had missed out on the ¢advertised¢ free diner that is offered by a couple who own a house along the road at Allen Gap. I personallyh had little interest in their dinner, frankly, given the ¢evangelical¢ strings attached (a word of warning, especially to non-Christians), but my young hiker friends had heard it was a sumptuous offering ¢ with three kinds of dessert ¢ and it was, after all, the night before Easter. After looking up and down the road a mile in each direction, however, and failing to find any sign of the alleged free dinner, they were feeling a bit down, not to mention pissed off. So I suggested we hike a couple miles further on to the Hemlock Hollow, and offered to spring for a couple of cabins ¢ one for the girls and one for us guys. That turned into one of the most wonderful evenings I¢ve ever had on the trail. We gathered in the girls¢ cabin, which had a full kitchen, and cooked a communal meal. Everyone contributed the best they had in their food bag, and we created a real feast. In addition to the great food, there was music, and singing, and laughter and I don¢t know what all! It was me and Topo, and Colonel Mustard, and Hammock, and Squeegee, and Rapunsel and the Twins (Newt and Ms. Scarlett), and it was joyous. One of those moments to remember always. As you climb up out of Hot Springs you¢ll have wonderful views of the French Broad River. Later, on Day Two, you'll get to wind your way through the Blackstack Cliffs, and on Day Three (or Four, depending), you'll encounter Big Bald ¢ similar to Max Patch. And you'll enjoy numerous views of the Nolichucky River as you descend by switchback after switchback into Erwin.You reach Erwin where the trail comes out on a road, on the other side of which runs the river. To the left you¢ll see the famous ¢Uncle Johnny¢s¢ Hostel and Outfitters. Uncle Johnny¢s offers a bunk room and cabins, as well as campsites. You can stay there, and get shuttles into town for resupply and restaurants, on get a ride on to the Holiday Inn Express. The latter is more expensive, but I find it more convenient. It offers a free breakfast in the morning, pizza delivery, and it has good internet connection. Next Stop: Dennis Cove, Tennessee, and one of the best Hostels on the entire trail ¢ ¢Kincora¢ ¢ run by one of the one of the most special Hostel Owners on the entire trail ¢ Bob Peoples. They don¢t make ¢em any finer than Mr. Bob.