Date: 2003-07-19
From: Palmerton, PA - Delaware Water Gap, PA

To: Palmerton, PA - Delaware Water Gap, PA
Miles today: 36.0
Weather: scattered clouds

Palmerton, PA - Delaware Water Gap, PA36.0 miles (1277.8 total miles)Cuba Libre cooked us another great breakfast on day 106. We packed up all our stuff, and left the cabin around noon. What a wonderful day off. We stopped for milkshakes and for lunch, all before we made it to the trailhead. Even with 48 hours away from the trail, our hiker appetites were alive. Cuba and Mike dropped us off at the trailhead at about 3:00. Thanks again Cuba and Mike!It was a hot afternoon. We were leaving at the worst possible time. It was a very steep climb out. We did about a half mile and stopped for water. Suddenly we burst out laughing. It was so hot, we couldn't walk a half mile! This was crazy. Where we were stopped was the end of the tree cover, and the beginning of a crazy rock scramble. I waited about a hour for the air to cool down. Finally I followed the white blazes painted on the rocks up, around, and over the ridge. It was at least entertaining to be on such a crazy stretch of the trail.We all met up at 4 miles, wondering what to do for the night. The water source in the handbook was nowhere to be found, and it was another 9 miles to the next one. We'd never make it. We asked a local dayhiker if she knew of the water source. She said there is none. We sat and wondered. Another local came by, and we asked him. He said he knew of one. We followed him back about a half mile, then down the mountain. Water in this area was supposedly possibly contaminated with zinc, but he said it was okay. We needed the water, so we filtered it out. We also took some extra. By then it was 7:00. We hiked for another hour through Little Gap, then found a campsite for the night.We wanted to make big miles on day 107, but we all overslept. I was out at 8:45. Three different hikers had already passed by that morning. There was a water source at 4 miles, but it was dry. It was another 6 to the shelter. We walked on, thirsty but saving our water. We finally hit the shelter, where the register said the first spring was dry, but the second was flowing. That would mean a steep 1.2 mile (round trip) climb to get water. It was only 3 easier miles to the next road crossing where there was supposedly water. We pressed on.We got to the road crossing, where the handbook lists a nearby motel as the water source. We went over to check it out. I felt guilty just asking for water without staying. But the family that runs the motel was amazingly friendly. We bought sodas from them, and they filled our water bottles (twice). They even let us cook and eat dinner on their porch. I was amazed at their hospitality for so many thru-hikers, most of which don't even stay at their motel. It made me happy. We pressed on late, and did another 2 miles to a beautiful green field for the night.On day 108 I learned how much the weather had been affecting my mood lately. I woke up to the most beautiful morning. It was sunny but very cool. A breeze was blowing. I looked out and saw the ferns and trees all around our campsite. I watched the other hikers stumble out of their tents and gather their stuff. I was so happy to be waking up in the woods. This was AT thru-hiking again, not just the daily routine.The first 8 miles to the shelter were hard, but fun in the cool weather. The rocks were the worst I had seen yet, and my feet were pounding. The trail went up and along a long cliff outcropping. It finally dipped down, followed an old jeep road for a while, crossed a state road, then came to the shelter. It was a dirty, smelly shelter, but had a nice view. The water source was a spigot by the road. It wasn't a comfortable shelter, so we moved on. We had to be at the Delaware Water Gap post office by 4:45 anyway.It had gotten hot, and the next 2 miles dragged on and on. My feet hurt so bad. We stopped again, and I drank plenty of water. Only 4 miles to town - I could drink as much as I wanted! After that short break things got easier again. We followed an old jeep road to the top of Mount Minsi. Then it was a steep mile down, then an easy mile into town.Our first stop was the hostel, which is also the local Presbyterian church. We hit the PO, and got care packages from Slaughter and Jen (thanks!). A local trail angel gave us sodas and a ride to the diner. When we got back, we found that the church puts on a huge potluck dinner for hikers every Thursday. I ate some more. I sat around for the rest of the evening reading magazines in the hostel.We took another zero day in Delaware Water Gap. I feel a little guilty taking another day off. But I wanted to seam-seal my tent. There was also supposedly some severe weather in the area, so it seemed best to stay. I did some business at the post office, resupplied at the gas station, worked on my tent, and ate lots of food. I met up with some hikers I hadn't seen in months, or for some reason heard about (Journey, Stinger, Charity). It was a restful zero day. I am ready to hike on and start making miles again. I am very excited to be only a half mile from leaving Rocksylvania. Rumor has it that the trail maintainers here work very hard all spring sharpening the rocks just for us thru-hikers. For me, this has been the toughest stretch of the trail yet. People keep flying by me as I stumble along every step of the trail. I hear that the rocks taper off in New Jersey. I am looking forward to it. Only 894.8 miles to Katahdin!