Date: 2017-07-25
From: Lost Pond lean to

To: Manchester
Miles today: 14.8
Weather: overcast clouds

After somewhere north of 6,000 miles of hiking, my Superfeet insoles have finally reached the end of their triple crown dream. I'd bought these in Oregon on the PCT in 2006 and they'd done the whole of the CDT in 2010 as well as all kinds of adventures in between: a trip to Antarctica, a series of trail ultramarathons and ascents of two of the seven summits, to name but a few.I'd heard that there was an outfitter in Manchester that specialised in insoles, so today I rocked my way down the trail to make sure I got there before they shut. But it turns out that Manchester is the first town I've encountered on the AT within the invisible boundary of being in the New York money zone. What that meant was this was an outfitter for people who want to look like they go hiking rather than those who actually do.In turn, that meant the woman who served me was rather shocked by my on-trail appearance, complete with fetid shoes and lower legs still liberally caked in mud."I'm used to people, um, rinsing themselves off first," she stammered before finally getting a back room guy to fit new insoles. She refused to even touch my shoes during this process. To be fair, it isn't something I would have done in her place either.With that task completed, I returned to the usual town chores of eating and resupplying for the next 60-mile section to Massachusetts, having got through the 52-mile leg from Killington far more easily than any similar section since starting the AT at Katahdin.The hike today had involved some steady climbs on trail that was more frequently comprised of rocks and roots than the duff that's becoming increasingly common. The low cloud that hung around rendered academic any potential views along the way so it was easy to push the miles.The last climb of the day ended with skirting the top of Bromley ski area, where the ski patrollers' warming hut was somewhat generously left open to hikers.I took a break there before heading down to the road to Manchester, just a couple of miles away. A couple of northbounders came in while I was signing the register, asking: "Any trail magic?" I told them there was a warm and dry place to take a break but that didn't cut any ice with this over-entitled pair, who snorted dismissively and left without an extra word.This was the downside of all the help that hikers get from random strangers. I try to be grateful for anything that comes my way, but clearly not all hikers think that way.I was still mulling over this when the trail emerged onto the highway and the very first car pulled over when I stuck my thumb out. She asked where I wanted to go in town and took me straight to the outfitter. All the while, I tried to be the exact opposite of the nobo pair by thanking her for her kindness and apologising for my hiker aroma.Hmmmm. Maybe I should have washed before I went into that outfitter...Life is good, although the traumatised shop attendant might not agree...AT fact of the day: At Peru Peak lean to, I met a mother organising a gaggle of half a dozen kids on a hike of the Long Trail. After the kids left and she did a final check of things possibly left behind, I commiserated with the burden she was putting on herself and she seemed genuinely grateful to have her efforts recognised. When I said how this was making a positive difference by having them experience the world directly rather than through a PlayStation, she looked like she was about to cry in gratitude.