Date: 2015-04-12
From: Nantahala Outdoor Center, NC

To: Brown Fork Gap Shelter
Miles today: 15.8
Weather: overcast clouds

Day 13, NOC, NC to Brown Fork Gap Shelter, NC - 15.8 miles:Awoke just before 6:30am to the sound of a flowing river, ~30ft from my tent. Managed to sleep a little in between 3 bathroom trips throughout the night. I've realized then worst part of my days is usually packing up each morning. If that's the worst part of my day, though, then I'm exactly where I need to be. I sucked it up and packed quickly in order to walk back into the NOC to use the bathroom, brush my teeth, take care of light cleaning in a sink, and try to charge my iPad a little. If I'm unable to post another update for a few days after this one, it will be due to no juice.Jeopardy decided to take advantage of breakfast served at the River's End Restaurant beginning at 8am, but Moosehead, Burnsides, and me decided to press on without. Awaiting us would eventually be Cheoah Bald, topping out at 5,062ft - 3,300 vertical feet above that would take 8 trail miles to reach. There's the saying, what goes up must come down. On the AT it seems to be reversed. Burnsides was quickly out in front and not seen again for ~6hrs. Moosehead and I trudged up through Wright and Grassy Gap's, the Jump-up, Swim Bald, Sassafras Gap Shelter, until we reached a spot where we both felt spent of energy. Macgyver, a 21 year old from MI who has been with us the past few days also tagged along. Having only had a pop tart for breakfast and nothing to drink in 3 hours of hiking, I could feel my body giving up as we climbed. We each sat on logs and enjoyed a quick shot of sugary treats. I downed mouthfuls of grape jelly, a granola bar, and some energy gels. I would use this new found energy and reach Cheoah Bald in the next ~20 minutes. Once there I said a quick prayer as I enjoyed the 180-degree view of the river valley below and rolling mountains and valleys in the distance. We weren't able to stay long, however, due to swarming gnats and the thought of this spot only being the halfway point.From this spot, the second half of the hike was mainly downhill, with occasional uphills just to keep us in check. Not many comments were exchanged through the entire day due to the energy spent hiking. Most of us would eventually agree it was our most difficult day yet. We continued to make good time, though, as we passed through Locust Cove Gap and eventually Simp Gap where we took a break and exchanged a few comments with SoBo weekend hikers (former thru-hikers.) One man, Loon, said to enjoy the trail magic ~3 miles ahead as he walked off. Needless to say, the next few miles were covered at just under jogging speed. Macgyver actually did break out in a run in the last mile - how he dance around jagged roots and stones in flip-flops while carrying ~40+ lbs is beyond me. The hunger of a thru-hiker is no joke. Moosehead and I, short of breath and with achy feet, probably seemed like we were stumbling down the last 100 yards of the mountain as we entered the gap with the best puppy-eyes we could muster up. We were greeted warmly by 2 men, Hopeful and Ox, both former thru-hikers, who take time each year to provide trail magic to poor souls like us. On the side of the road they had 2 tents, under which stood several tables of all the goods that really hit the spot - hot dogs, potato salad, coleslaw, chips, oatmeal cream pies, nutty butty's, fruits, a variety of other calorie-packed snacks, and, most importantly to me, a cooler filled to the brim with soda's. Again, I must've had myself at least 16 Dr. Pepper's (Cokes) after the 2 gentlemen insisted we not leave until we had multiple servings of everything. Also there was Burnsides, Tick Tock, and Etch-a-Sketch. We exchanged stories, laughs, and stuffed our faces. Both Hopeful and Ox shared advice regarding the so on approaching Smokies. They agreed that it's often a place on the trail where you'll quickly learn if you have the heart and mindset to reach Katahdin (although it can happen anywhere, anytime.) Even though it's never enough, we thanked the men and their wives over and over and said we would look for them in Damascus during Trail Days if they're able to make it.Having a stomach full of 4 Coke's, 3 hot dogs, and several additional pounds of junkfood (increase those numbers for Moosehead) made the remaining 2.5 miles to camp the worst I've experienced so far. The majority of the 2.5 miles is uphill and especially at a point about halfway through called "Jacob's Ladder." It was just shy of purely vertical and lasts for nearly half a mile as you zig-zag your way up just shy of 1,000ft. It seemed to never end as my feet and legs ached with every step, my shirt was quickly drenched in sweat, and my lunch was at war inside of my stomach. However, if you stay the course, the ground always levels out and you're up another climb before you know it. Moosehead and I limped into camp to fins Burnsides posted up in the shelter already. Luckily we were some of the first to reach this site and are enjoying a night sleeping side-by-side and not having to set up our tents. This will make for a quicker departure in the morning, plus keep us dry should rain arrive tonight.The next 4-5 days promise rain at some point so our streak of nice weather may finally be coming to an end. Fontana Dam, NC awaits ~12 miles away and a few thousand vertical feet below so hopefully we'll be able to roll in during early afternoon. We'll be shooting for the 'Fontana Hilton," one of the nicest shelters on the trails which holds a minimum of 24 hikers (the average shelter hold' ~6), and offers free showers. We'll also top off any supplies we need before we enter the Smokies the next day. Our next big goal, other than reaching the Smokies, will be standing atop Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT. I hear there is currently snow in the Smokies and, along with rain and cooler temps, may give us our first shot of "winter weather" on the trail. Time to HTFU if so.Six of us are currently lying shoulder-to-shoulder in this shelter. Jeopardy and a hiker I don't know are already snoring. Hopefully the earplugs Moosehead gave me do the trick. Time to wrap this update up.