Date: 2006-03-22
From: Fontana Dam

To: Gatlinberg, TN
Miles today: 0.0

Could a hiker's day be better? Great morning hike. Stunning park views after catching a hitch Great service on a brief, hopefully, town visit. I'm writing now while sitting at the Grand Prix Motel in Gatlinberg, TN. I'm taking advantage of the free internet while I do laundry.Great wakeup this morning. I started getting ready before sunrise. Very cold after last night's ice storm. The storm was followed by a snow flurry so everything was dusted in white. I dressed in almost every piece of clothing. My shoes were frozen solid but on they went. Then I hit the trail.The path was sheer ice. I crawled along with the tinyest steps and working the puzzle of foot placement. But, it was one of those days when everything out there was all for me. The trees drooped, covered in ice and light snow. The early sun made everything shine and glisten. White branches against blue sky with bright pink clouds and I was the only one out there to take it in. These are the experiences that make every person's hike different and personal.Took me a long time to travel just 4 miles, but worth it. I was amazed on arrival at New Found Gap as well. It's a high gap with dramatic views of peaks and valleys. The wind was whipping. Clouds of fog were rising from the valley and twining with the frozen trees. Even though frigid and windy, the parking lot was filled with cars, mostly out of state, while parents snapped pictures of children in front of panoramic backgrounds.As soon as I stepped off the trail, I heard "Boulder!" Casino and another familiar hiker were just leaving the gap and getting back on trail. We filled each other in on trail details. They'd been in hypothermia shelter. Then I tried to get a hitch down. All those SUVs and minivans packed with bloated parents and their bouncing cherubs, and noone would stop. They'd smile, look quizzically or pretend not to see. We all look like scum when we get off the trail, all potential bandits and thrill killers. Most tourists in those cars don't even know they are in the middle of the trail, just an obstacle to hikers who have rightful possession of the gap. Two sides to every coin.Freezing with numb fingers, I finally got a ride with a family from New Orleans. He'd done some hiking, knew what I was doing and I think he wanted to interest his kids. They smiled a little but preferred their Harry Potter video. It was a good ride. The dad asked about the trail and hiking. I asked about New Orleans and the hurricane. They were from the town right outside the city that was wiped right off the map. He was cheerful and spirited, talking about devastation and recovery.This ride dropped at the visitor center at the park entrance. I was immediately picked up by 2 women, one cheerful, one horrified. The one said to the other, "He's a thru-hiker, not a serial killer!" She was a local, and she got it. She was also heading for the outfitter that was my first stop.Picked up my new pack belt and odd stuff at the Happy Hiker, a great outfitter that knows what they are doing. Tree Frog and Show Me pulled in right after. Dan showed up too. He changed his mind and is back on trail. Good thing for me too. When I couldn't get a hitch at the end of the day he let me stay on the floor of his motel room.Laundry at the Grand Prix Motel. Kind of a dump, but they love hikers. Wingfoot lists them first in his guide of service stops in Gatlinberg. Then manager gave me free soap and change for the machines. Noone complained when I did a quick full monty in the laundry room to get all my necessities in the machine.Took the 50 cent trolley to the post office and grocery store. Fun dragging my pack on and off. Tourists, and Gatlinberg is Southern Tourists Mecca, either look quizzically or drag their children way out of your way.So errands took a while. Even though I hate towns, I had to stay. Good thing too because then problems set in. I walked out for a burger with Dan and pain shot up my left shin so bad I could hardly walk. I was afraid of a stress fracture and got local hospital info from the waitress.I borrowed $50 from Dan for cab fare to and from the hospital in Pidgeon Forge. X-ray showed no fracture, but I had a major case of shin splints. I ignored advice to stay put, ice it, take massive doses of Ibuprophen, Vitamin I. Stupidly I ignored advice and would soon pay.Note on Gatlinberg, Tourist Hell. A mix of tacky tourist spots put together, Orlando, Wisconsin Dells, Niagra Falls, and various locations on Cape Cod. All families with 3 to 5 kids. It's a fertility festival.The locals are great though. The cab driver was an encyclopedia. She gave me the local history, the skinny on the DollyWood parade, and stopped at the pharmacy and 2 ATMs for me. She knew I was on a tight budget and tried to refuse a tip. She got it anyway and deserved it.Sleep and back to the trail.