Date: 2010-09-04
From: Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to

To: Wadleigh Lean-to
Miles today: 21.5

And then the Rains CameCooper Brook Falls Lean-to was a nice spot with a deep swimming hole below the falls. The falls were somewhat of a disappointment with a few rivulets of water coursing down twenty to thirty feet of pitched dark rock.When I awoke to the sound of rain in the morning, Six Course said: "hey, look at the falls!" The rock no longer visible, a Niagara of brown boiling water gushing in a huge torrent; logs and foam sweeping by. The rocks that I sat on last night while soaking my feet were now submerged under a few feet of water. The swimming hole, transformed into a vortex of certain death for anyone foolish enough to venture in. I was suddenly seized with panic: how was I going to get across the many fords on today's agenda?Some of my hiking colleagues voiced their disappointment with the anemic streams that we had to ford in Maine; it was supposed to be a wet and wild experience. We had heard about the harrowing crossings of rushing streams in this state from past thru-hiker alumni, but thus far found only dry rock hops instead. Where was the submerged Maine trail? Well, today I got the chance to experience trail turned into river and waterfall, and survived several challenging fords.The remnants of Hurricane Earl had dumped Biblical proportions of rain through the night and was still pelting the shelter roof with heavy rain as the light came up at dawn. I lay in my sleeping bag much longer than usual fretting about fording streams and hoping that the downpour would let up. I finally set out at 7:50, an incredibly late start for a 21.5 mile day. Interestingly, I started out by dancing around the perimeter of the deep puddles in the middle of the trail. However, after a tenth of a mile, I encountered a boiling stream that was knee deep and just plodded across. I laughed at myself, realizing the folly of hopping puddles, deep or otherwise. Low sections of the trail were submerged under two to three feet of water in places. Sloped sections transformed into rushing streams and waterfalls. After a bit, Six Course swept by and declared: "I'm having fun now, but check back in about three hours". I had to agree, it was liberating slog through water, no mater how deep, and the Maine woods were tranformed into a virtual water park with water spouting from every pore in the mountain and cascades tumbling down from all sides. The hurricane brought warm, humid weather, so we were clad in nylon shirts and shorts with no worry about getting wet. It was nice for a change, not to be drenched in sweat. I felt efficient getting a bath and doing my laundry as I hiked through the car wash intensity rain.To my amazement, I covered the eleven miles to the first shelter before noon. There, I found a sodden Six Course with blue lips and fingernails, looking a bit cold. He needed to get moving again to warm up. I took an hour lunch during which time the rain lessened and then finally stopped.The trail in the afternoon was not as forgiving and included some challenging fords, so my progress was less impressive. There was a sign announcing a view of Katahdin at the edge of a lake. I stepped out, and there it stood in all its glory. And, it was so close, and so huge. Although clouds were passing around its peak, I could see details of the mountain: the treeline, vertical ridges, barren ledges, and rock slides. The mountain was no longer a distant blue silhouette. For the first time, it was real and within reach.After a very long afternoon, and a few perilous fords, I arrived at my destination and found the shelter at capacity with rather loud section hikers, so I went off to look for a tent site.Only three more nights on the trail!For the loser nowWill be later to win-Bob Dylan