Date: 2018-10-17
From: Gravel Springs Hut

To: Hughes River Gap
Miles today: 21.3

This morning was not as cold as I expected. I easily packed and headed up the hill to the trail in the dark. On the way glowing eyes startled me but it turned out to be a buck. Arrived at the trail at 6:20. Just up the trail about half a mile more glowing eyes. This critter looked like a big moving shadow. It was a bear and it was heading away from me. Though it wasn't too cold at the shelter last night, once I reached the ridge it was windy. The wind would last all day. Around 9:30 I stopped at Elkwallow Wayside. I got a cup of coffee and a cinnamon roll with thick white icing on top. I went outside and had my breakfast. Just as I was going back into the store I saw the lady I met yesterday. She talked and talked. I went in the store for another cinnamon roll and free coffee refill, bringing them back outside to the picnic table. She talked and talked. Finally I headed out. The trail was great all day except for a short section. The rest of the trail was on old roads or on a well constructed treadway. I crossed Thornton Gap after 3. Briefly I took off my outer shirt because it seemed warmer in the gap with the sun shining on me. But climbing out of the gap the winds picked up and I was cold again. Then for two miles the trail remained on the east side of the mountain out of the wind. That was a pleasant break. The trail from Thornton's Gap was graded and well constructed. Stone walls lined the edge of the trail. I suspect this was built by the CCC back in the 1930's. When I reached the top I was back in the wind again. Initially this morning I was going to go to Byrd's Nest #3 Hut at 18 miles, then decided to push for 20 miles instead. But just before the hut I decided to stay at the hut because I figured it would be out of the wind being down the side of the mountain. When I got to the hut it was right on the ridge, right in the wind. The campsites were nearby in the wind also. The spring was .3 down the mountainside. I pushed on, hoping after the picnic area up ahead I'd find a shielded campsite. The trail was graded up and over the Pinnacles. It took less than an hour to reach the Pinnacles Picnic Area. I knew there was water there and I was glad to find it wasn't turned off for the season. Finn came by and stopped to get water also. We were getting whipped by the cold wind. I put my fleece vest and fleece jacket on. Finn said he hopes to get to the lodge 4 miles ahead so he could sit in the bar to stay warm. He couldn't believe how windy and cold it was. Neither could I. We are in the south! Finn went on ahead. I wanted to get a mile or two away from the picnic area and out of the wind. Like at the huts, the picnic area had bear warning signs all over and there was a bear trap there. I hiked onward longer than I hoped to. As I walked the sun was setting slightly to my right. The orange glow turned some of the trees and leaves orange as well. Then the orange ball disappeared. A half moon to my left got brighter and brighter. I saw no campsites as the trail dropped steadily. Thick mountain laurel on both sides of the trail made me worry as I was running out of daylight. The trail climbed up and the mountain laurel disappeared. As the trail leveled out and intersected with another trail I saw flat open woodlands. It was 7 p.m. I got the tent up without using my headlamp because my eyes adjusted to the fading light gradually. I learned to use my night vision in the army. The winds continue. To the west a golden horizon. Behind me a bright moon. Another good day.