Date: 2015-08-07
From: 1,955.6 campsite, ME

To: Rangeley, ME
Miles today: 13.2
Weather: overcast clouds

Despite another cold night I would awake in what felt like a puddle of my own sweat. It's crazy the amount of warmth the day brings simply between 6:30-7:30am, the change usually going unnoticed due to being on the trail already. I woke up and quickly removed my puff jacket, rain jacket, rain pants, leggings, fleece top, and 2 pairs of extra socks before feeling like I could breathe again. I slowly packed my gear, made a mess of my already disheveled beard by throwing pop tarts into it, and finally stepping out into the cool, foggy morning above Mooselookmeguntic Lake.I climbed the rocky siding leading up to the road and paused for a brief stretch before returning to the woods. With music already playing, I barely noticed a man heading in my direction from the nearby overlook, his mouth moving as he waved me in his direction. Damn, caught for stealthing along a road. Do I run? Do I offer him money? Do I start drooling and mumbling in hopes he finds me mad? Crap, my legs are already moving me in his direction. "We have donuts and drinks if you'd like any trail magic," he says after I remove my earbuds. The man's name was HoBo (Homeward Bound) and he completed the trail in 2013. He and his wife were seeing off 2 German hikers that he'd hiked with 2 years prior before injuries slowed the couple down, forcing them to quit the trail upon reaching Maine before their Visas expired. Picking up where they left off 5-6 days ago, the couple plans to average ~10 miles a day and finally complete the trail before their current Visas expire in a month.After the 2 Germans headed off to begin their day, I sat with the couple, chatting about trail experiences, post trail plans, etc. as I shoveled egg casserole, donuts, and Coke into my mouth. Half an hour later I glanced ~100 yards down the road and saw what appeared to be a yellow hat - Yoohoo. After exchanging our calls in order to confirm each others presence, he quickly headed over and began enjoying the spoilage as well. 5ive appeared soon after, but was soon taken into nearby Mexico, Maine by HoBo's wife so that 5ive could pick up some meds to treat her giardia. Lesson: don't drink stagnant pond water without at least filtering first. As a few hikers, including Huey and Rabbit, began forming just down the road at additional trail magic left in the form of a cooler stuffed with Coke and Budweiser, HoBo relocated his haul of goodies to the same spot and we were all treated to a trail magic overload. After 2 hours and 4 Coke's later, we finally hit the trail just before 10:00am, our goal being Rangeley, ME only ~13 miles away over relatively easy terrain.The trail remained under treeline all day, but occasionally opened up to beautiful large ponds surrounded by lush forests. Past Moxie Pond at first, we then arrived at a small section of sandy beach lining a small corner of Long Pond. My boots were quickly off, Yoohoo doing the same, and we'd walk out close to ~50 yards into the shallow waters of this isolated corner of the pond, the crystal clear waters rising only to our knees. We discovered the pond was an excellent place for echoes, calling back to us 3-4 times, each farther than the last, before fading. We we joined by fellow thru-hiker "14" who I grew to like almost immediately upon meeting him. His journey has been an awakening as he's grown closer to God in the process. As a Lions fan from Michigan, he'd be the first to admit that God knows no one is perfect. I should see "14" again in passing tomorrow as I continue on, and I can genuinely say I look forwards to it. The 5 of us, "14" included, walked a few hundred yards to the nearby Sabbath Day Pond Shelter where we'd spend the next ~20 minutes paying the daily poo toll. With less than ~9 miles to go, I wished "14" well and continued on through the losing battle against sloppy mud pits, rocks, and exposed roots.After making decent time, we exited the woods into a parking lot along ME 4 where HoBo, his wife, and the 2 Germans sat relaxing. We greeted one another again and were offered more drinks - Coke #5. With hopes of reaching town quickly, we were happy when a large SUV appeared, driven by Stacey, offering to give us a ride into town. On the way in she shared that she and her husband, Shane, owned and operated The Farmhouse, a hostel located just outside of town. She offered to drop in to see if we'd like to stay there or not before continuing into town. Within minutes of taking the tour, we were set on staying. The bunkhouse is a large 10,000 square foot home consisting of 2 wings converted into beautiful hostels for hikers including single beds, large beds, bunk beds, kitchens, bathrooms, and sitting areas. Unlike many hostels who's goals are to pack hikers in, they've kept available beds at a reasonable number and with a homey feel to boot. We quickly took showers and prepared a load of laundry before being shuttled into nearby Rangeley.Upon reaching town the hiker-filled SUV emptied as hikers made off towards their various destinations of food. The 4 of us, along with a SoBo named Huckleberry Finch joined us at a Thai Blossom. Although the place was empty and beverage selection limited (water), the food was on point. A neat tidbit about the restaurant is that it's owned by Somchai Sriweawnetr, the Thai cook who aided in the escapes 6 American diplomats who had evaded capture during the seizure of the U.S. embassy in Iran in 1979 (see Argo, 2012.) As we ate an exchanged more trail experiences and knowledge with Huckleberry Finch, I learned that he's from Carmel, IN and is a former copy editor for the Indy Star. Talk about small world/small trail. With nearly ~2,000 miles left to hike in his own journey, he could use the support. The man is a gifted writer and overall good human being. He's also hiking to raise money for Alzheimer's. Please feel free to follow his blog, show support to a fellow Hoosier, and even donate to his cause. I can tell you firsthand that your support, in any way, will be going to an awesome guy:www.mrhuckleberryfinch.comAfter a delicious yet not-so-filling dinner, we walked along the streets of the quaint, touristy town until we found The Shed, a BBQ joint praised for their award-winning chili. In we'd go for dinner #2. Not feeling as hungry as the others, I'd getma hodgepodge of appetizers to go along with a bowlvof chili - mac n'cheese, baked beans, and cornbread, to be exact. All were gold, but, as expected, lacked any real kick. Aside from lacking any heat, the chili was flavorful, but the amount of cheese sprinkled on top gives off the impression that it needed a little help. BBQ critique done - still a solid spot for hikers and visitors alike. Do note that refills aren't free - something we learned upon receiving the bill.With bellies finally stretched to capacity, we began waddling back across town towards IGA for a small resupply, passing the local theater playing Rocky tonight at 5:00pm and 8:00pm. We made a quick going of IGA, getting just enough food for the next 2-3 days, as we sang and danced our way though the aisles to some good oldies. I made out just under $20 while Huey checked in at just over $50. That's the difference between having a food bag filled with real good versus one that looks like a Halloween bucket. Finally we walked the last half mile back to the hostel, Huckleberry Finch and I chatting in the rear as a brilliant sunset casted fiery reds and oranges onto the undersides of clouds towards the west.Tomorrow brings the first of the last 2 real remaining Mountain ranges before entering the 100 mile wilderness so I'm hoping for a good night's rest ahead. I'd like to say Huey is softly snoring in a bed across the room, but it's not what I'd call soft anymore. My bed is tucked in a corner surrounded by 4 windows offering a 180-degree view of the surrounding yard and lake beyond. I can hear the occasional call of Loons in the distance - something I hope to hear more of as I soon begin my push into a stretch of real Maine wilderness.Here's to HoBo spoiling me twice, a day of 7 free Coke's (well played, The Shed,) and a fellow Hoosier - Huckleberry's his name.*Tuck, thank you for the much-appreciated message. It's been my pleasure providing a small slice of what this adventure has been like. It's readers like you who make it worth the time to write. Cheers.