Date: 2019-09-11
From: Carl Newhall lean-to

To: East Branch Lean-to
Miles today: 10.8

Day 163The rain lasted for the whole night and morning. It was the type of rain that makes people want to stay at home, lazy out the whole day with a cup of hot coffee/tea/chocolate or all of them, and an open book at one¢s lap. I would also want to sit by a window, looking to the outside from time to time, watching the rain water sprinkle on the window glass and be happy that I would not need to go outside. But today was not that day. We started packing after 8am and were on trail before 9am. The rain had already delayed our start time by almost 2 hours. We need to get moving and get going, or we would not have enough food to reach the next store at Abol Bridge campground 63 miles away. In couple of hours my boots and socks were soaking wet. My pants and underwear were also wet even though I had both rain jacket and poncho on. That¢s just the way it was. My husband got newer gears with waterproof books and heavy duty gaiters. So he¢s able to keep his feet dry.We have four peaks to pass for the day, the last major obstacles before Mount Katahdin: Gulf Hagas, West Peak, Hay Mountain, and White Cap Mountain. All of the peaks had moderate grade and relatively easy trails. We reached Hay Mountain when there was a few minutes of break in the weather, long enough to allow us a peaceful lunch break. But only a few minutes of the lovely sunshine. When we reached the White Cap - highest of the four, there was a brief breakthrough of the dark gray clouds that gave us a fantastic view of sunny valley and lakes down there. A range of mountains were also appeared behind the opening and closing curtain of the flying clouds, layers of mountains, all looked too low for Katahdin. We were told that Katahdin can be seen for the first time for NOBOs on this peak. I was disappointed for not be able to see it or identify it. The break was too short for me to check my topo map. In just a few minutes, the dark gray clouds rolled in, not only all mirage of mountains and lakes disappeared, but also heavy rain rushed in and whipped us with threads of wind and water. Rain drops as heavy as soybeans patted our body. Braveheart wanted to dry her tent in the wind before the rain wrapped us tight. Her tent was wetter than before. I tried to pull my poncho over me. In the two minutes that I struggled for that with the helping hands of my husband, the water already soaked my whole pants, boots and socks. I had to walk with a bucket of water slushing in my boots for the next hour. On the darkened stormy mountain top  my only thought was to get down below the tree line as quickly as possible, for it was the worst place to be if the storm was a thunderstorm.No matter how tough it was today, I was still very happy to have a brief moment of seeing the miraculous views of the mountains and valley in the sunlit drifting clouds. Also in the rain the forest was more lovely. All colors were enhanced by the wet condition. The red was redder, the green greener, and the yellow yellower. On the ridge where the trees thinned, many branches of ferns had turned into cinnamon and yellow colors. They had nice contrast with neighboring green ferns, making great patterns as abstract painting. And all red berries were so bright among the green leaves. After 3:30pm, we were done with the mountains! Our last 4 miles were ¢all rolling hills¢ as we were told to expect in Northern Maine. Though the elevation was lowed, trails were flatter, there were still mud pockets to be avoid at all cost, and slippery roots to watch out. We do expecting hiking more distance each day in the next three days, even though we¢ll have to do it in the rain for some days. It was a relief to put big mountains behind us, and only to worry about Mount Katahdin when we get there.