Date: 2003-07-16
From: Dismal Creek Falls campsite

To: Holy Family Hostel, Pearisburg, VA
Miles today: 22.0
Weather: overcast clouds

Last night was exactly what I needed. No rain - I slept beneath the stars all night, the white noise of the falls my background music. Woke up a few times and just soaked it all in. I think I can make the 22 today. I may even wear my clean shirt to celebrate...I can judge when it's time for a shower by the amount of dirt under my fingernails. It's time.When I woke up for good at 6am the moon shone wanly in a pale, pale blue sky, wispy white or dark gray clouds passing quickly over it. I watched until it sank below the trees, then got up to get my journal. I'm anxious to get to town, but it's so pleasant here and I won't likely be back again!During the first hour of hiking, visions of myself atop Katahdin, victorious, yet this season, again became obscured. This time it's pain in my right posterior medial knee. It started yesterday afternoon. I got to thinking - I've had some sort of pain almost the whole time I've been out here. First my right arch, then my feet, then my left shin, then my right, now this knee thing...But I limped along, and when KC caught up to me we kept a good pace to Wapiti Shelter. When I read in the register about the 1500' climb ahead of us, I decided to eat a snack. In fact I had two.Maybe that's what did it, I don't know, but on the way up that hill I bonked. Maybe not in the true sense of the word, but I lost steam big time. The tears came and everything, and this time I didn't have PMS, low blood sugar, or anything (except maybe for sheer exhaustion) to blame it on. Wasn't even the weather, because the sun was shining here and there, although the humidity was very high and a mist fell off and on.I had to revert to stopping to catch my breath every minute or so. The eight miles between Wapiti and Doc's Knob shelters took hours longer than they should have (it seemed), and Quinn was gone by the time I got to Doc's Knob for a late lunch. I was so tired as I walked along I decided I'd tell Quinn to wake me up in ten minutes when I got to the shelter, but when I came within earshot I heard voices. A crowd of people (it seemed) were already there, and it looked somehow like a revival tent what with the blue tarp they'd hung out over the firepit, the steady sound of someone talking and the way there were several seated in a row at the picnic table. I felt as though I were interrupting something, but no. It was just a card game, numerous conversations going on at once, and an attempt at extra shade and shelter. An outdoor school for boys (from Maryland!) - quite a crowd. Eleven or so, plus three leaders, plus two other section hikers all there at one shelter. There went my nap idea.I was kind of zoned, but found a place to cook and eat by the firepit and once I'd sat down for awhile was able to carry on a friendly conversation and not feel overwhelmed by all the people. One cute kid fired perpetual questions at me, then told me his Trail name was Radio. "I never quit talking," he said. I spent about an hour there before I gathered the energy to carry me 7.8 more miles into town.I know better, but for some reason I still fall for it EVERY time. The kids insisted it was "all downhill from here." I know better! But my mind, fried by 74 miles in three and a half days, nearly eight to go, clung to the hope...Then I set out to climb five and change before what seemed like the steepest descent into town I've seen yet - two miles from Angels Rest on Pearis Mountain (which I hope to return to someday to really enjoy the spectacular views) down into Pearisburg."Hike smart," Hal always tells me. I know, I know - but I'm so tired, I'm so greasy and grimy, I smell so bad, I just really want a shower. So I pushed it. Got to the road just after 8pm, where a "Keep Out" sign is ironically placed just across from a white blaze. That was reassuring.I asked directions to the Holy Family Hostel at the Rendezvous Hotel (which was awfully tempting since it was right in front of me and the Holy Family is a good three miles from the Trail), and stopped at Dairy Queen for another Oreo blizzard (this time I ordered a large). On the Trail I had felt like I couldn't possibly go any farther, but once I reached town my energy was renewed somewhat. As I walked up the street I came upon Quinn, who, although he'd left Doc's Knob an hour and a half ahead of me, had gotten lost. We walked together a short ways before a couple in a truck offered us a ride and we climbed in the back.The Holy Family is in a beautiful spot on a hill above town, affording pleasant views from at least three sides, but it is a LONG ways from the Trail. As they turned the truck from the main street I looked back at the mountain we'd just come off of. It seemed to grow larger and larger as we headed up the hill!We arrived to find Joey (Keanu), Mollie (Biscuit), and Mike (Merlin) already here. I had at least six packages and a couple of envelopes awaiting me - that was funny. And they've been here at least a week and a half. I guess Bill, the owner, had been asking everyone who came if they were me! He said he was about to take them back to the post office. I didn't even have the energy to open them all that night - but Bushwhack and Bramble's did not go unopened long! Thanks for the cookies again - you guys are awesome! We passed them around to everybody.KC soon made it in as well; he and Quinn ordered a couple of pizzas while I was in the shower enjoying the Bath and Body Works shower gel my sister and her friend thoughtfully sent! I think I used half the four-or-so ounce tube in my first shower. Thank you so much!To bed late, of course, after cookies, a shower, pizza, breadsticks, soda, and Late Night with Joey - true entertainment!