Date: 2017-04-05
From: US 19E

To: Iron Mountain Gap, TN
Miles today: 30.8

Day 29. US 19E, TN to Iron Mountain Gap, TN - 30.8 miles:Mr. Bird knocked on the bedroom door at 5:30am to make sure I was awake. I slept half the night, but had been tossing since early morning and was anticipating the alarm clock. I joined Mr. Bird at his small wooden kitchen table where we sipped on hot cups of coffee. I also downed a bagel and honey bun despite not feeling particularly hungry. With the sky still dark, a small sliver of light just forming in the east, we made our way some ~45 minutes to the AT trail-head at US 19E, about halfway between Roan Mountain, TN and Elk Park, NC. At 7:15am, Mr. Bird dropped me off at the trail-head, and told me to do my best maintaining 3mph all day so we'd have time to drive into Johnson City, TN tonight to enjoy all-you-can-eat wings at Hooters. I set off carrying no more than 5lbs - a nano puff jacket, two pairs of socks, a beanie, a balaclava, a liter of water, cell phone, camera, iPod, two honey buns, beef jerky, and a pack of a dozen or so fun-sized pieces of chocolate. I could've carried half of what I did, but with potential weather approaching during the day, I choose to be safe with a few extra pieces of warm clothing.The first five miles led me up into the Roan Highlands, heading south instead of north today, towards Hump Mountain. As the sun broke the horizon to the east, the bright sun like a ball of fire against the blue sky, I knew it was nothing more than a tease. After three miles I reached Doll Flats, a campsite sitting on the border of Tennessee and North Carolina, the last time, in fact, NoBo hikers will be in North Carolina. The morning was warm as I passed through a clearing drenched in sunlight, a farm sitting in the valley directly below with two horses munching on grass in a pasture. It was at Doll Flats where, two years ago, I stumbled into camp nearly frozen after a 23-mile day that ended in hiking through a hailstorm atop Hump Mountain, now standing overhead. Putting on all of my layers, immediately passing out in my sleeping bag for a few hours, and a two liter of Coke pulled me out of that difficult experience.A couple miles later I exited the treeline and on to the exposed grassy ridge that led up to the summit of Hump Mountain, still over half a mile away. I could see a few hikers making their way down in my direction. I also noticed the sky had already taken on a light grey, the sun behind the clouds where it'd remain the rest of the day. As I made my way up and over the summit, I enjoyed the 360-degree views of mountains rising in every direction, the largest being Roan Mountain, its summit still ~12 trail miles away. As I made my way down Hump Mountain, I gradually passed a total of half a dozen hikers slowly climbing their way up and eventually out of the Roan Highlands, their goal to escape the approaching weather. As I made my way into a deep gap between Hump and Little Hump Mountains, I remembered the wind tunnel this gap had been two years ago. As I passed through then, I had been unable to hear my voice even at screaming levels, the force of the wind taking the noise as soon as it left my mouth. Today, however, in the calm morning, the gap remained quiet. I would pass only a few more NoBo hikers during the morning hours, but would remain more or less along in the Highlands until I neared its southern terminus.Once up and over Little Hump Mountain, I crested a hill and saw the red siding of Over Mountain Shelter, a red barn converted into a large shelter for hikers, sitting in a small clearing at the start of a valley, the valley walls stretching out and away in front of the shelter. Having to maintain speed throughout the day, I had to be picky with where and how I chose to use my limited breaks. I continued on, back into the woods leading up and away behind the shelter towards the south. I soon arrived at and was passing Stan Murray Shelter, sitting empty in the late morning. Some hiker of yesteryear had crossed at Stan and replaced with Bill. Although I found this kinda rude, I would hope whoever the shelter had been dedicated to would've found humor in the situation as well. Continuing on, I was soon hiking up and down the camel hump-like mountains of Grassy Ridge Bald, Jane Bald, and Round Bald, the three of them seemingly blending together to form one giant bald. It was during this stretch that first noticed the wind had picked up, the force of it causing me to walk bent over and at sharp angles to the trail, almost as if it was trying to blow me over and off the mountains.Around noon, I dropped down into Carver's Gap, escaping the whipping wind, down to a road and parking lot where tourists and day/weekend hikers park before setting off. With the summit of Roan Mountain now just under two trail miles away, the mountain rose like a great wall before me, the detail of its features becoming clearer with each step. A sign along the road told me I had come 14.8 miles so far, but had 16 remaining on the day. Having kept pace for half the day, I decided to duck right back into the woods and begin the climb versus dropping in the parking lot to search for trail magic that most likely wasn't there on a day like today. With grey clouds building towards the south, shrouding mountains in a grey haze in the process, I could tell my time was running out. After ~20 minutes of well-graded switchbacks up the north side of Roan Mountain, I reached the blue-blazed trail leading up to the Roan High Knob Shelter, the highest shelter on the AT, still hidden from view by a thick wall of spruce trees. With no real desire to stop for lunch, I decided used to push on instead, making my way towards the steeper, south side of the mountain. I didn't quite remember, but was soon reminded, that Roan Mountain must be the lovechild of the two people who created switchbacks.Just under three miles south of and below the summit, I came across Bubbles who I had gotten to know a little as we chatted and helped with a couple chores together at Uncle Johnny's Hostel. We briefly caught up and, after telling me she was potentially juggling options in regards to getting off trail tomorrow should weather arrive, I passed along Mr. Bird's phone number and suggested she give him a call if she needed anything. She gave me a sour apple sucker as we parted. Just as we were ending our chat, the rain began to fall. Several minutes later a loud thunder rumbles overhead and echoed through the mountains. The rain, though lighter, would fall for the better part of an hour, but the increased winds whipping along Roan Mountain would quickly dry me off afterwards.I eventually climbed up and over a much smaller mountain, Little Rock Knob, and reached Clyde Smith Shelter. I sat on the ground at the blue-blazed trail leading to the shelter, allowing myself to rest since I knew I was good on time. Knowing I only had six miles remaining until I returned to Iron Mountain Gap, I texted Mr. Bird to inform him I'd be there by 5pm. I drank a little water, having only downed a liter over the first 25 miles, and ate two fun-sized Almond Joy's, my only food for the day. Two miles later I reached Greasy Creek Gap where a side trail leads half a mile off to the Greasy Creek Friendly. I remember staying there with Burnsides as he regained his strength from a sickness he had, and spending a lazy afternoon watching Armageddon together.Now, with only four miles remaining, my body kicked into a quicker gear, knowing that the finish line and a cold soda were nearby. When Unaka Mountain came into view, and then a curve of a road soon after, I knew I was only minutes away. At 4:30pm, having maintained just under a 3.5mph pace for just over nine hours, I strolled back into Iron Mountain Gap and found Mr. Bird sitting in his white van waiting for me. In the back sat Booty who, if you checked out my pictures, is the guitar player atop Max Patch. He will be staying both tonight and tomorrow during a zero. Although this area lucked out with weather today, tomorrow again calls for rain, and much lower temperatures. Booty, a 2016 thru-hiker, plans to skip the ~31 mile section I did today, having already did it last year. He'll instead continue north at US 19E with me on Friday. As I stood at the back of the van downing two hard-boiled eggs and a strawberry-flavored soda, Booty sat on the couch in the back, strumming on his guitar. Mr. Bird, having once been in a band, is quite the guitarist himself and helped give pointers.We were soon rolling down out of the mountains, Booty softly playing in the back. After hot showers and a change of clothes, we were back in the van heading towards Johnson City, TN. We'd spend the next hour enjoying endless amounts of breasts and thighs - whatever they'd put on our plate. Booty and I got the unlimited boneless wings, and split a pitcher of beer. I ended up downing 31 wings, one for each mile completed, and several handfuls of fries. With bellies stuffed to the max, we waddled back out and into the van to return to Mr. Bird's, both Booty and I nearly falling asleep on the short drive back. Any time you can leave a restaurant feeling full and that you got to first base is a win in my book.So now it's just after 10:30pm. Booty is lying in a bed next to mine, journaling and messing on his phone, Mr. Bird is in the living room catching up on the pathetic state of our politics, and I'm quickly getting this complete so I can shoot for sleep. Although my feet are sore and my belly large, 51 miles are quickly behind me, the bed is soft, my clothes are currently spinning in the dryer, and tomorrow Booty and I will rest up and prepare for the next stretch. The last bit of Tennessee remains before entering Virginia.