Date: 2015-05-19
From: Niday Shelter

To: Va 624, Newport Road, Four Pines Hostel
Miles today: 16.8
Weather: light rain

No change in the weather: warm and humid was the order of the day, which started with a high, rounded ridge on which there is a monument to Audie Murphy, the most decorated American soldier of WW11. I stopped briefly to snap a photo of Twister (former army man) and moved on, feeling tired and sluggish. I discovered I had a bit of cell reception, and stopped briefly to do some texting. Twister passed me, then I passed him back when he stopped for a message on his phone. So I was the one who discovered the trail magic at the stream down below:someone had left cans of soda, beer and some bottled water there to keep it cool. I snagged the last coke, while Twister settled for a beer. We both gathered, filtered and drank some water (sources still rather scarce along this section) before starting up the next ridge. At first, the walking was easy and graded gently. On top, though, it became a rocky jumble that seemed to go on for untold miles, always uphill. I started feeling some "hot spots" on my feet. Of course, the rest of me was already very hot. But my feet had started the day on wet socks from the previous day's rain, and the low gaiters I had begun wearing again since Pearisburg were trapping in that moisture and heat. That, with the added stress of the constant rocks, completed the equation: after nearly 700 miles of hiking I had my first blisters. I was able to catch the ones on my left heel by covering them with duct tape, but missed the spot on my right arch (odd place to blister, on the bottom of my foot), and it continued to worsen as the day progressed, and I went up and over what is known as Dragons Tooth. Let's just say the beast bit me, and hard. The descent from the ridge was very difficult, picking my way down and around boulders, ledges, and multiple rock piles. The day had a couple of silver linings, however. At a level section on the ridge, I spotted a fawn behind a bush. When it saw me, it became curious and approached me, coming within about 6 feet of me as I grabbed my camera and started taking photos. Then it moved away, and I made a video of it watching me, flicking its tail, before it bounded away into the woods. It was quite the nature encounter! The other boon was the Four Pines Hostel just off the Trail at the end of the afternoon. I limped my way there and made my way to the 3-bay garage behind AT supporter Joe Mitchell's house. It's a shabby, basic set up with mismatched furniture, some beds and cots along the back wall, a make-shift "kitchen" area, and a bathroom with utility tub and shower in one corner. There is a cooler filled with ice and cold sodas upon arrival (hurrah for generic dr.k), and instructions to make yourself comfortable in the garage, or the (working) barn, where a ledge made of plywood for hikers' gear and bedding can be set up, along the back wall, or tenting in the grass/pasture area. Chickens, rooster, guinea fowl, ducks, cats, and a couple dogs roam freely. Corn hole is set up outside in the driveway. Shuttles to a nearby gas station/convenience store for food/burgers/pizza are free (I opted for a freshly baked 12 inch pepperoni and mushroom, which I ate my fill of, then shared with other hikers so that I could get an ice cream cone afterwards). I opted to set my tent up near the barn, and next to a wire fence, where I clipped my hand-washed/de-stinkified hiker clothes to dry in the sunny breeze. Earlier, I had showered the grime and layers of sweat away. The hostel survives by hiker donation; towels are not provided. Enter my second bandanna, reserved only for "clean" drying after stream baths. Next time you take a shower and step out, imagine yourself reaching for a single bandanna instead of a fluffy towel, to squeeze out your dripping hair and then your entire body. It's a real experience, believe me. Also, believe me when I say the Four Pines was an oasis for me in every way. I even found a basin and some left-over Epsom salts, to soak my swollen, blistered feet. Someone brought up a bin of homemade peanut - butter chocolate - chip cookies, 2 per baggie, free for the taking. A spare fridge was filled with eggs from the farm hens, to be used as desired. Gave new meaning to me for "He makes me lie down in green pastures, He restores my soul". Amen