Date: 2015-09-27
From: Chairback Gap Lean-to

To: Carl A. Newhall Lean-to
Miles today: 9.9
Weather: clear sky

We said our good byes and I headed out. Spark and Sparky were only going as far as Katahdin Ironworks Road, roughly 4 miles, where they would be picked up. So they took their time packing up. I knew I was going to miss them. I like the quiet and solitude of hiking by myself. But it was nice seeing friendly faces occassionally during the day for breaks, lunch, fordings, and at the end of the day. And we always had interesting conversations.The day was beautiful and the climb up Chairback Mountain was not as difficult as I expected. At the summit, the AT went over several exposed rock veins with great views. Unfortunately the blueberries were all gone - the season is over.The trail went closer and closer to the edge of a ledge - NOT a good sign. Finally the trail literally just dropped over the edge of the rock ledge and went almost straight down over boulders, but not like any boulders I had ever seen before. The giant rocks were smooth and flat with sharp broken edges - like the rocks were once one huge flat piece of rock that was smashed and dumped down the side of the mountain.I literally heard myself let out a loud gulp and I felt my heart start to race at the thought of picking my way down the almost vertical rock rubble while despirately trying not to fall. Thankfully the boulders were dry. I cannot imagine how slippery and dangerous the smooth flat boulders would have been if wet.The AT was also not well marked over the boulders. So I just did my best to try to figure out where the AT exited the rubble and picked my way towards the end. At times I climbed down backwards or crabbed my way on my butt to keep from falling - adding more holes to my pants. Finally the trail went back into the woods, and I found myself grateful for just having to manuver rocks and roots. I took my lunch break and collected/filtered water at Katahdin Ironworks Road. Spark and Sparky soon joined me. I waited with them until their ride arrived. We said our good byes again and then they were gone - wisked out of the 100 mile wilderness and back to civilization.There is an AMC lodge near the road, and there were several day hikers on the AT. I also saw section hikers and folks slack packing. Perhaps the 100 mile wilderness is not as wild and remote as the sign at the entranced warned.Soon I was at the West Branch Pleasant River. The AT guide warned that this was a "wide ford with slick rocky bottom." A family of day hikers watched as I removed my boots, put on my Keene camp shoes, and prepared to ford the river. I was surprised the family did not stick around to see if I was going to slip while fording and fall on my butt.The AT guide was right on both points. The river was wide and the rocks were slick, but the water level was low (no more than knee high) and clear so I could see and avoid the slickest rocks. I successfully forded without falling and met a very nice Ridge Runner named Moxie on the far bank. She was busy dismantling fire rings (camping and fires are prohibited next to the river). Moxie took time to visit with me as I changed back into my hiking boots.Moxie asked if I was section hiking. I told her I was a thru hiker and asked why she assumed I was a section hiker rather than a thru hiker. She noticed my legs were shaved and assumed I had not been on the trail long. I told her I regularly lather up in the streams and shave my legs - the horrified look on her face was great but did not last long. She quickly realized I was joking. I do carry a razor, but I shave when I am in town. Apparently many female thru hikers do not shave at all. Moxie proudly showed me her furry legs, which could give my husband's hairy legs a serious run for their money. I have done and endured a lot of things while on this adventure I never thought I would or could do. But going months without shaving was never going to be on that list. A plastic diposable razor weighs less than an ounce and is always in the small hygiene kit in my pack.Moxie also told me I was one of the cleanest thru hikers she had seen. (I think washing but not putting my clothes in a dryer has kept them looking better.) I told her to step closer and take a whiff. I may look clean, but I smelled just as ripe as any other AT thru hiker.Moxie told me that the river I just crossed is high in the spring - so high that in the past it was used to float logs down river for the paper mills.I enjoyed visiting with Moxie, but it was time to move on. For a long while the AT ran parallel to the river and the trail was relatively easy. The Gulf Hagas trail splits off to the west. That trail follows a deep narrow gorge with many waterfalls for 5.2 miles and then rejoins the AT .7 miles further north. I was tempted, but knew I did not have the time to hike an extra 5.2 non-AT miles.The AT turned and followed a brook, and became more typical, with roots, rocks, and even boulders. As I approached the Carl A. Newhall Lean-to I could hear loud voices. I decided to avoid the shelter and camped in the tenting area before the shelter. I quickly threw up my tent and made dinner. It was pretty quiet without Spark and Sparky - except for the noise coming from the shelter, which went on way after dark.The AT is calling. I am almost half way done with the 100 mile wilderness. So far so good. I just hope my food drop is still waiting for me - today was the first day of the party.