Date: 2012-01-13
From: Carter Shelter

To: Winding Stair Gap
Miles today: 16.0
Weather: clear sky

I woke frequently through the night as the wind whipped around and through the shelter. The damp air was chill and penetrating. At some point during the night the rain changed over to snow. During the night I had decided to try to reach Franklin today. It would be a long day, but I didn't want to stay at Rock Gap Shelter; I avoid shelters close to road crossings, especially on weekends.That meant another early start, so well before dawn I climbed out of the sleeping bag to get started on the morning chores. It didn't go well.The wind was still blowing, chilling me down even as I rushed to bundle up. It didn't take long before I started to shiver. Time to get the stove going to get some hot water. Crud. I'd forgotten to bring the cannister into the sleeping bag with me overnight, and I couldn't get the stove started even with the valve wide open. But, wait. I believe in backups, especially hiking by myself in the winter. So I dug out my very light Caldera Cone alcohol stove. The wind and my shaking hands made it difficult to get the stove started, but eventually the blue flame was heating my pot of water.I went to get my Ursacks (bear bags) to make breakfast and coffee, but the damp cords had frozen so I couldn't get them down from where I'd tied them. I stood, shaking in the cold, trying to loosen the knots. No luck. Wedging the nail file on my knife into the knot on one of the bags worked, but the other one was hopeless. Finally I just cut the remaining cord and carried both bags over to where my stove was. Now a new problem became apparent. The bags themselves had frozen in the tightly closed position. The pinched-closed neck of the bag, designed to keep out the nose of a bear, also kept out the hand of a hungry hiker!   I resorted to more force - slamming the bags on the shelter floor.Finally a hot breakfast helped things get under control. I felt much warmer and ready to face the day. Only one more problem remained. I'd been carrying a pair of warm over mittens for cold days, but I was able to find only one... Brrr.Even though it had taken me so long to get ready and packed up, it was not yet light when I started off. My headlamp gave enough light, aided by the reflection from the snow. I tried to quicken my pace to warm up, but the icy patches required more caution than speed.After I'd been walking for a while the day brightened some, but the low clouds kept things dim and gray, even so. It was very quiet except for the wind blowing. I paused at the little lookout (Picken's Nose?), but there were no views at all - just a bank of fog.I watched for any signs of wildlife, but I couldn't see any birds or anything. I didn't see any tracks in the snow, except when I looked behind me and saw the tracks of some idiot hiker out on such a day. I guess the animals were smart enough to stay home.By the time I got to Big Butt Mountain some of the fog had burned off and patches of blue were visible above.   The wind, however, remained gusty, staggering me a couple of times as I hurried along. At least I was trying to hurry. I'd been making good time, but the narrow trail, combined with the rocks and slippery spots along Big Butt, slowed me down as negotiated the path. As i went along I debated with myself whether to take the Albert Mountain bypass or not. I'd taken the blue-blaze in 2010, and I didn't want to miss it again. I was worried this time, too, about the ice, but was feeling more confident. Just as I made up my mind to stick to the white-blazed trail, big tough hiker that I am, I hit a slick patch, and a gust of wind hit me as if in response to my impertinence. I slid off the trail and almost went down. I decided if I was having trouble in this relatively protected area I would not try anything riskier. Albert Mountain would have to wait yet again.After Albert Mountain the Trail turned easy, and my pace picked up. One 15-minute break at Glassmire Gap was all I took, but it helped a lot. Soon I was on that long, winding descent to Rock Gap and past the shelter. At that point I saw tracks. Two sets of tracks led the way to Wallace Gap and up and over to Winding Stair Gap.I dropped down to Highway 64 about 4:15. I was hopping to hitch a ride into Franklin, but there turned out to be very little traffic at that time of day, and most of it seemed to be utility trucks or 18-wheelers. I pulled off my black hood, hoping to look more like hiker trash than a desparado. I displayed my pack and trekking poles prominently, but no luck. I was able to call the motel even with the limited cell service. I was able to get enough to get a pick up arranged for a shuttle to town. As it is the off-season, it wasn't free, but it was so worth it. The sun was setting and the temperature was dropping. I marched in place and swung my arms to stay warm. At this point a gentleman pulled into the parking area. He'd been heading west but swung back to check on me. Since a ride was on its way, he left me, but I felt heartened that he took the time to come back to be sure that I was ok.Ron picked me up and shuttled me to Franklin. My room was ready at Haven's Budget Motel, and the clerk had turned the heater up so that the room would be warm. After a hot shower I started to feel better. I unpacked and laid the damp things out to dry, especially my sleeping bag.Finally I headed off to the Blue Ridge Road House for a well-earned dinner. I ate plenty and then hobbled the short distance back to my room. Shortly thereafter I expect the sound of my snoring drowned out the traffic noise on the road outside.