morvasaaty/AppalachianTrail-LD-Hikers-Blogs-and-Weather-20-years huggingface dataset:
Date: 2006-04-21
From: Apple House Shelter

To: Hostel on US 19E
Miles today: 0.0

Woke up to cold and grey skies. Rain came during breakfast. I made a snap decision to zero based more on being tired and fatigued than the weather.As I crawled out of my tent in the grety morning light, Red Baron was already packed and heading out. Turned out he was up packing all night. He was headed for the hostel half a mile down the road.I set up my stove for breakfast and greeted the boy scout leaders cheerfully to no avail. They didn't even offer a crust of bread. They looked at me sideways and mumbled obligatory good-mornings. I don't think they appreciate my commentary on the fabulous advantages of my frivolously queer life. I hike, I smell, I eat sticky oatmeal. Outrageous.When I got to the hostel Stump Knocker was on his way out. He travels so fast I figured I'd never meet him. He's only a fireside character in trail stories. We both left Georgia on March 1st. He was heading all the way to New Foundland by August but fell and broke his arm hiking in to NoC. 133 miles into his hike. After 31 days of recovery he was already at mile 385. Red Baron was curled up and moaning in the loft.This hostel is located over a barn and smells like fresh hay. Horses roam the hill behind. The place was spotless, carpeted, decorated and had nice furniture. I sat on a couch for the first time since Hiawassee, over a month before.Ten Speed came in a little while later followed by Punch and Mo. They --- waiting out the storm until friends picked them up for a few days off the trail. While I showered and did all my required gear maintenance they popped in a few videos, also an unexpected luxury. Indiana Jones and Parenthood made for a cozy afternoon.Ten Speed is hardcore. He's from California, has hiked the PCT and wants to finish the AT by July. Then he'll bike to Seattle. We had a great conversation later in the evening about motivations for hiking. He's in the plumbing profession and said the PCT was life-changing. The trail teaches you to simplify your life. You learn how little you really need to get by and still be fulfilled. He talked about paring down your life and leaving most possessions behind, exactly my own experience. You feel so unemcumbered, so free. Most people don't understand but no matter. It's about quality of life. It reminded me of a very brief conversation I had with Joe Alfano just a few weeks before I left my job. He got it too. Outside of being with Andrew I can't really name anything I miss all that much. And miles to go before I sleep.
Date: 2006-04-24
From: Wantauga Lake Shelter

To: Double Springs Shelter
Miles today: 14.4
Weather: clear sky

Good day for hiking, cool and dry, not much elevation gain after the Watauga Lake Dam.The dam isn't nearly as impressive as Fontana, but the lake created by it goes on forever. Much of the trail today was along a long ridgeline miles long. There wasn't much view to the left, but to the right I looked at that lake for a couple of hours. There were tiny boats, many marinas with full boatslips. The rest of the day was just good hiking. Not much to see but moved over the trail.Days like this let me pay attention to my body. I feel the strong motion in my legs on the flat stretches of trail. I feel strong and I feel my length of stride and I feel the force in my thighs propelling me forward. My uphills are different. I have separate strides. One is like baby steps. I fall into it natural but force myself out of it. It's slow and nonproductive and makes me feel both stressed and weak. The better stride is to lean back almost to a sitting position and propel myself like climbing stairs. I lengthen my stride and feel the power in my hamstrings and glutes. The steps seem slower but move me forward faster. This is more satisfying and more tiring.When on steep or long hills I usually look straight ahead and occasionally look at the top. This makes the progress easier, just getting into a routine rather than looking at the final goal. Really the same philosophy for hiking the trail but there are more steps over a much longer span, much longer.I feel my arms as I swing my hiking poles. With them I propel, I hold myself back on descents, I climb, I catch myself before I fall.And I listen to my breath. By now it's always steady and not labored, my heartbeat the same. I feel good.
Date: 2006-05-02
From: Knot Maul Shelter

To: Chestnut Knob Shelter
Miles today: 9.0
Weather: light rain

A short day. Intended it to be longer. Had wanted to be in Bland for my summer gear in 2 days. I didn't get out of camp until 11. Was being very lazy. Had a social time with Parkay and Cupcake. We talked about how many miles we needed to do today until there wasn't time to do them. We talked about the annoying speed hikers who'd stayed last night in the same shelter. I'd seen them earlier in the day and they barely acknowledged me when I tried to say hello. When I walked into camp the woman, Butterfly, was talking about fat women and saying they shouldn't be allowed on the trail. Homeward had heard them talking about derelict hikers, meaning people hiking slowly and enjoying themselves. I hate to say it but I thought it was funny when wasps were crawling up out of the shelter floor under her sleeping bag.Looks now like I could have hiked on. There's still plenty of daylight, but I was looking forward to getting here, catching up on missed journal entries and maybe even reading. One day I worry about not doing enough miles, the next I'm happy to take a slow day. It was worth it though to finally talk with people for more than 5 minutes.Off that topic.Things I crave out here that I never crave at home:Orange Crush! When I find some I'm going to guzzle it in front of the refrigerator and and pay for the empty cans.A chocolate milkshake. Yesterday the trail ran next to a highway and passed a Dairy Queen. I debated going in and spending money. Debate ended when I saw the place was out of business. Death of a dream.A full body massage. A hard, kneading deep tissue massage. I have knots in every muscle, especially in my calves, back and right between my shoulders.A bath in a deep claw foot bathtub. I haven't showered in almost a week and I won't be to Pearisburg for at least 4 more days. Once there I'll get a shower at a grubby hostel like I did in Damascus. A shower won't cut it. I don't mind the grub in grubbt hostels or being all that grubby myself. What I really want is the luxury of sinking into hot water and stretching out. Bubbles would be the cherry on top.Hamburgers. I crave ground beef, thick, juicy and pink with lettuce and tomato and onion and lots of ketchup. Can't say why. I know I need the protein, but there's more to it than that. I can never get full out here on just camp food. Starchy side dishes with sauce and noodles fill the empty hole in my stomach but they give no satisfaction. McDonald's won't do. I ate there while in Marion the other day. I stuffed that burger down so fast it was obscene, grease and crumbs dripping from my beard. But McDonald's doesn't go far enough. Thick burger, fresh toppings, clean plate and juice, juice, juice.These visions play through my head all day long. They keep me moving and put a spring in my step. At night they are just a curse. I have nothing to do but lie here and feel the depressingly empty ache.Orange Crush.
Date: 2006-05-12
From: Sarver Hollow Shelter

To: Dragon's Tooth
Miles today: 20.1

An amazing hiking day. There have been so many good ones. THis was one of the best. Parkay, Centipede and I have bonded quickly over yesterday's terrors and stuck together today. Making a quick plan for the hike, I suggested we shoot for spending the night on the ridge of Cove Mountain at Dragon's Tooth, a 20 mile day. We agreed on the plan.We didn't hike every step together. That never works. The three of us are all pretty much solo independent hikers.Loved the hike down the ridge winding and green. My legs and back are feeling fresh and new, perfect for putting on speed and hitting the hiker's high. My head was clear as a bell, limbs loose and relaxed.There was a van from a Methodist Church at the bottom of the mountain. Exciting because it's a local church that's been filling coolers on the trail with ice and juice. I looked all over for a friendly preacher but didn't turn one up. Big disappointment but not really.After the gap teh trail climbed up and up with gentle switchbacks, a hundred of them it seemed. Parkay was behind me. My high was still on and I had the power. Half way up I stopped to look at a rocky slide starting at the top of the ridge and down to the bottom between arms of the mountains. Parkay stopped too and I just had to express amazement for the trail makers who carved the way up these mountains.The power came back to me and I flew off. The trail continued up with no end. It seemed like a starway to heaven. It was so odd to finally hit the top and find a group of people on a park bench. It was the church group from the van. with no trail magic to offer. Very nice people just the same.Parkay came up and we unpacked for lunch. Centipede came up ten minutes later. We chowed and the weekenders we amazed at the amount of food we put away.It was very strange when a middle aged guy, clearly not in hiking shape or gear came strolling down a ridge trail looking for the Audie Murphy memorial. Turns out there's a parking lot a quarter mile behind Audie Murphy, most decorated WWII war hero, died in a plane crash years back on the ridge. We stopped at the memorial to read the tributes.After lunch Parkay got the power and flew off. Finally at the top of the ridge and hiked across the ridge together. It was a long one with more incline. As we got closer to the tooth, the trail narrowed to a knife edge with lots of rock scrambling, one of my favorite terrains. Reminds me of New England hiking. It was so steep on either side I was afraid we'd never find a tent site. We also had no idea what Dragon's Tooth looks like or where it is. Every false summit, we were sure the Tooth would be on top. By dusk we finally found found the blue blaze out.Dragon's Tooth is incredible and well worth the 20 miles we covered. Two giant jagged boulders, probably two stories with a huge sandy patch big enough for 15 tents.Very cold and windy up there. Parkay built a fire against one of the rocks. Before we retired we lent Centipede some warm clothes to sleep in. She'd sent home all her winter stuff too early. A great team effort. A great team day.
Date: 2006-05-15
From: Angel Gap

To: Wilson Creek Shelter
Miles today: 15.3
Weather: light rain

I left campt first this morning and was glad for the past few days. We'd been a good team and had a great time. I know this is the way the trail works. We're all solo and independent anyway. It was a good time.My place was to get to Daleville/Troutville as quickly as possible. I did get in adn out but not in the time I wanted to make. Time is my biggest plague. Slow down and enjoy, speed up to keep a better schedule. It's been following me from Standing Bear and remains unresolved.As I crossed the highway off the trailhead I ran into Mr. Breeze on his way out of town. Got a good greeting and handshake. He always shakes hands at parting.I stopped for breakfast at the Waffel House. Great hiker repast and good chats with the cook and several customers about the trail. As soon as folks in trail towns see you and smell you the come up for a meet and greet. I made sure to do the over the head pack flip that Parkay taught me each time I put my pack back on. Of course I waited for an audience to gather first.I called post offices on both towns and had no packages waiting so headed for the grocery store. I was confused but the map and ended up walking and hitching into the next town and missed the bog Krogers a block away.I found the trail head in Troutville and had missed a mile and a half of connecting trail between towns. I dropped my pack behind a tree and ran back to Daleville the turned around and ran to Troutville. I won't count these 1.5 miles as slacking since I covered these miles twice.I hiked alone for the rest of the day. I'm usually by myself but I felt odd after having two great partners over the past three days. The hike was work after leaving town. A big elevation gain to the Fullhardt Knob Shelter and then a big drop down here to Wilson Creek Shelter.My plan for the weekend is made. Tomorrow I do a 20 miles day to Bryant Ridge Shelter. Wednesday I do 22 to Matts Creek Shelter. Thursday I get into Big Island and hitch to Lynchburg where I hope to sleep in the train station and get a 6am train to Lynanne's place. I'll get in Saturday morning. Andrew flies in Saturday afternoon. Great plan. Thinking on my feet. Will be a month and a half since we said good bye. We both need this visit.
Date: 2006-05-16
From: Wilson Creek Shelter

To: Bryant Ridge Shelter
Miles today: 20.5
Weather: overcast clouds

A long day and not much to show for it. The trail parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway for the next hundred miles or so. Mr. Breeze was excited by the yogi potential because the trail crosses the parkway 5 times before Bryant Ridge and there would be lots of sightseers in Winnebagoes.I slowed down and did my best hungry hiker stance at each crossing. No good. The views at the crossings are great but there were never any cars of tourists nearby.After every road crossing the trail climbs back up to the ridgeline. Up and down all day. The views on the Parkway are beautiful but mostly reserved for drivers, not hikers.It was a long day. Most was under cover of trees. In the last 5 miles as the sun dipped and energy flagged. The woods felt like a jungle. The trail went through a valley, steep slopes rising up on either side, under brush lush and green. By the end of these longer days I just want to be at the shelter, cooking dinner and rolling out my bed. I was tripping over every root, cursing, my coordination, the little that I have, failing. The trail was muddy as it followed close to a stream. The sound of flowing water combine with evening bird calls settled into my head and I was ready to keep on until dark. I was all very dramatic, almost like being in a movie. I was the lone determined hiker, wet and alone and exhausted. As this little scene played out in my head I glanced up to my left expecting to see vines dripping from the trees and boa constrictors in the branches. Instead I saw a beautiful shelter perched up on the hillside. People were there, talking and eating and in for the evening. I snapped back into reality. As I climbed up the shelter trail, I composed myself. I put on my happy hiker face so noone would know I was Stanley Livingston. I greeted everyone cheerfully and commented on the shelter. No need to let them in on my delirious fantasies.It was a beautiful shelter, new and strikingly designed. It has a main floor and a loft and can sleep 12 comfortably. People were lounging on built in benches on the porch. Heald and Chou Chou were there with the dog. Chou Chou was surprised to see me. She didn't realize I was such a tough adventurer. I didn't tell her. Mr. Breeze wsa there and so was a section hiker preparing to do a Southbound hike from Maine to Georgia starting on the first of June. The Southbounder was napping and trying to rouse himself. He was getting off trail after only a few days. Good luck to him. He'll be doing the hardest part of the trail first. I hope a bad dress rehearsal means a good performance.Mr. Breeze was feeling proud. He yogied a couple of bananas off an elderly couple on the parkway. I came in empty handed. His 2 bananas sounded like small potatoes to me and I started feeling competitive. I proposed a yogi contest for the next day. Whomever came in with the most booty would be the winner.Heald and Chou Chou moved on. They prefer camping in the woods to shelter stays. I'm glad they had the energy. I was done in.
Date: 2006-05-24
From: Brown Mtn. Creek Shelter

To: Seeley-Woodworth Shelter
Miles today: 15.8
Weather: scattered clouds

Crossed the 800 mile mark today. Seems like 700 wasn't long ago. My feet look and feel like they've come this far. I'm actually getting off trail early in Montabellow instead of going all the way to Waynesboro. Pain in my foot is increasing and I limped all day. Had intended to do a bigger day but the feet said no. I'm afraid of a stress fracture or a break in one of the many little bones. Hope I'm making something out of nothing but I at least need to have it checked out.Needless to say, I was pretty down for a good part of today's hike.
Date: 2006-05-26
From: Seeley-Woodworth Shelter

To: Montebello, VA
Miles today: 2.5

I'm sitting in the waiting room of the local doc-in-a-box Emergicare in Waynesboro, VA. I'm getting an X-ray of my foot and keeping my fingers crossed that I can pay for it. They want cash up front and my insurance hopefully reimburses me. Yet another call for help to Andrew tonight. Hopefully nothing more to report than I'm broke again.I started the morning at the shelter with determined resolve to get this thing checked and back on the trail. I've been bucking myself up with only moderate success since then.I left early with Enigizer Bunny, now known to me as Betty. She's in Montebello for a mail drop and a stay at the B&B. She kept up a steady stream of chatter and kept me from sinking too far down. I said see you on the trail to Park Bench, Lunch Box and Sanford with every hope that I really will.I kept up my thru hiker internal monologue that I started yesterday. It keeps me in business. I can put up with going slow and watching people pass by as long as I'm keeping my eye on the final goal.Like all hikers we got into town and headed straight for the general store. Two Welch's, one chocolate milk, a banana and a honey bun later I called the B&B about a shuttle to a hospital.Lois from the Dutch Haus came down to pick up Betty and me. Betty was invited into the house with her pack and shown to the shower. I was left on the back porch where grubby hikers slurp down free lunches. Lois made a few calls to trail angels in Waynesboro who might give me a ride. I sat quietly and accepted a warm cup of coffee.I sat nursing my coffee and fretting about my hike. I get in this mood and I'm like a parent worrying over a sick child. I hope for the best but predict the worst so I won't be disappointed. Thankfully, Betty, done with her shower, came out and sat down. She's one of those amazing people who is always cheerful and always ready to take on the world. She started telling me about her own recent medical worry. She discovered a lump in her breast while on the trail. She went home for a mammogram while most other hikers were at Trail Days. She called her husband today for the results and needs surgery.She reported this cheerfully while my jaw dropped. Sigh of relief when she said it was just an abcess. But damn, she hiked her way through it all and told her husband to schedule surgery for July so that when she's in Northern Pennsylvania she can jump of trail, get it done and hike on. No way could I sit there and moan about my sore foot.The guys from the shelter arrived for lunch. Lois' father manned the grill. The 5 of us were treated to double cheese burgers, lasagna, nachos and chocolate cake.I said my see ya's as Lois' husband Earl headed for the car to bring me to Waynesboro. That's the thing on the trail that gets me down most often, meeting people or seeing people you know and then losing them again.Relief. Doc came back. No fracture. On trail tomorrow and putting concerns aside again. I'll take it.
Date: 2006-06-15
From: Duncannon, PA

To: View Entry
Miles today: 0.0

Note:With longer days and higher mileage it is hard to keep the journal currant. I have many incomplete entries.I will complete each current day's entry and one back entry per day. This way I'll slowly fill in the gaps and preserve the memories of my hike. Too much has happened in the last couple of weeks that I don't want to forget.
Date: 2006-06-16
From: Peters Mountain Shelter

To: Swantara Gap, PA 72
Miles today: 23.5

Today was uneventful. I hiked alone adn put in long miles, but the terrain was mostly flat. There was one long thousand foot climb over four miles. It was not at dramatic as some of the climbs over shorter mileage, but this one kept my legs pumping. There was also one short ridge walk over jagged boulder, fun but no views. Even though Pennsylvania is known for its feet eating rocks I was pretty much spared today. All the better for getting to Port Clinton on Sunday. By pushing today's mileage I can also push tomorrows. I'll have a shorter hike into town and a longer visit at Hope and Mark's. I know Elle is pretty fascinated by me walking and sleeping in the woods for over three months.I was still brooding today and still trying to knock myself out of that groove. Today's miles were dull. The only thing of interest was the remains of a small Pennsylvania town, Yellow Springs Village, in existance from the 1850's to the 1920's, now just a rutted road bed, crumbling foundations and a small cemetary. The miles would have gone faster with Betty or another hiking partner. I usually like hiking alone especially when I'm in the hiking groove. I wasn't there today. Again I was mulling over why, except for Betty, I haven't formed any lasting connections on the trail. The biggest factor is probably my agenda that I don't drink. I don't have points of reference with anyone younger or older. I don't hang in the pubs or bars with people when in trail towns. I also don't act like a big kid. I like my trail mates a lot but would really like to connect with someone who shares a thing in common with me. When I do find social interaction like at the shelter last night, or for brief moments at the Doyle. Some days I'm content being with myself. Some days I want more. At midway through the trip it's now about endurance, a little less abotu self-discovery and awareness.While eating dinner I looked back to the beginning of the hike and the miles we covered and where we stayed. No wonder I had time to keep up the journal. We were doing 11 and 12 mile days. 15s were big. Now I'm regularly doing 20s or higher. Granted at the beginning we weren't in trail shape yet and Georgia and North Carolina were not easy, but we spent fewer hours on the trail. Now I'm out longer and exhausted when I set up for the night.Miles don't mean as much as tehy did in the beginning. They don't fill me with dread when looking at the day ahead. They don't amaze me quite so much at the end of the day when I look back on what I've done. A 12 mile day now feels routine. 15 or less is a lazy luxury. Putting in 2 or more miles to stretch a day is easy and common enough. Now is the time for big miles when the days are long and the terrain is a little easier.