Date: 2003-04-13
From: Wallace Gap - Nantahala River

To: Wallace Gap - Nantahala River
Miles today: 30.3

Wallace Gap - Nantahala River30.3 miles (134 total miles)It was a cozy night sleeping by the fireplace on the floor of a cabin at Rainbow Springs campground. We had heard conflicting weather reports, but were all anxious to keep going. Due to the snow, at least 2 days worth of hikers were couped up at the small campground. At 9:00 about 4 truckloads of hikers were shuttled back to the trailhead.We climbed up and around the NC mountains all morning. Snow was still thick in some places, depending on elevation. I hit my first bald at lunchtime, but it was too cold to stop. For those who don't know, the southern Appalachians have "balds", mountains that aren't above treeline, but for reasons still unkown to scientists, have no trees on top. I headed down from Silar Bald, and noticed that the snow level was about 4500'. I looked at my guidebook, and realized I was about to go over that elevation for another 5 miles. I didn't feel like putting in a long day, or setting up in the snow, so I called it an early day at about 2:30, or 9 miles.I set up camp in a beautiful meadow, which became kind of spooky when the fog roled in. Hepcat came wandering by, and I convinced him to stay. A few others stopped in, including Papa Bob, a 78 year old section hiker. We walked to the nearest water source, which we didn't realize was about a mile from where we came. We laughed at our extra mileage. Our entertainment for the night was watching Hepcat hang his food bag. Thru-hikers find amusement in little things, and watching him throw his rope over a very high branch that he was so particular about had us in stitches.Day 12 was another personal milestone for me. It was my firt 20 mile day! I was prety impressed to hit that on only day 12. The sun was shining when I woke up, the first time in about 4 days. As usual, I was up and out by 7:30, before most people were even stirring. I was glad I camped where I did, as it wasn't long until I saw snow. About a mile in, Footslogger and T-bird were making breakfast in the snow. They cheered on my early start. There was a wonderful cool breeze, the sun and the trees were making wonderful shadows on the fresh white snow, and the birds were singing. I asked myself if there was any place on earth I'd rather be. I couldn't think of one.I had breakfast on top of beautiful Wayah Bald. The trail in NC is unpredictable. It will follow a nice, even grade all around the mountains for miles, then for no reason turn and go straight up or down. I felt very strong still at lunchtime. I wrote in the shelter register that I think I am finally getting my trail legs. Unfortunately, I think I am also getting my trail appetite! As the afternoon set in, it got very hot. Luckily by then, it was mostly downhill. It was mierable going after about 1:30. To make things worse, I somehow got into pace with another hiker who never stopped talking. Finally I made a major push up and over some quick, steep peaks to get some peace and quiet. On the way down I met up with Stir Crazy, and we finished up the last mile into camp.I dropped my pack next to the stream, and collapsed with exhaustion. My feet were throbbing, but I felt great for doing 20 miles. It was less than a mile into NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center), where I could get a cheeseburger, fries, and a soda. From NOC, I have a long 9 uphill miles! I am thinking I will buy a soda or some gatorade to mix with my water, and drink it as a reward when I hit the top.Stir Crazy and I were discussing how we've changed on the trail. One thing I noticed is that I am now constantly noticing trees that would be good for hanging food from at night. I wonder if I'll still be doing that when I get back to livng in the suburbs. Also, our perception of distance has changed. He said something about a shelter being "only" 6 more miles. If I was sitting home on my couch and had to walk 6 miles, I'd be exhausted. But out here, it's just what you do. You hike. There is no couch or tv as a distraction. So what do you do? You hike. And the miles turn into nothing at all.Thanks again to everyone for your support. I feel bad that I get so many great emails and guestbook entries, but can't reply to them all. I still haven't been able to get my pocketmail to work from a pay phone, which means having to find a private phone, which can be hard. So sometimes I can barely get my journal entry out. But I very much appreciate every email I get. Thank you all for being a part of this amazing journey. This is really unlike anything most people will ever experience, and I am so glad that so many people can be a part of it with me.