Date: 2015-05-07
From: Bear's Den Hostel

To: Blackburn AT Center
Miles today: 8.0
Weather: few clouds

Another exceptionally short day for me today. When I woke up, I still wasn't sure how far I would hike, but I had decided to go to the Blackburn AT center for lunch. I woke up around 6, but stayed in bed a little longer. My legs often seem unwilling to move after any period of remaining still, and after sleeping they feel like dead weights. But still, I woke and rose, and then went to make my own pancakes. I was content with 3 pancakes and 2 cups of tea. I tried to dry my shoes before leaving, but it was a lost cause and ultimately just wasted time. I put my wet shoes on and tried to ignore the seeping damp into my dry socks, and set out onto the trail.The trail was kinder today than it had been yesterday. The tail end of the rollercoaster wasn't too bad, and after that it was smooth sailing on a relatively flat trail. The temperature was warm, but a little less so than yesterday. Similarly, there were no thunderstorms today. The weather for the next few days is also predicted to be hot and sunny, which will coincide nicely with my planned break in Harpers Ferry. At about noon I reached the Blackburn AT Center. Bald Eagle previously described it as a "hole in the wall" because of the description in the guide book. Blackburn is far better than a hole in the wall. It consists of a large (rentable) house, with a screened in wrap around porch, lots of chairs, a separate hiker hostel (similar to a four walled shelter), a solar shower, and a caretakers lodge. I was first greeted by Why (aka Bearbaits wife, who previously gave me a lift into Waynesboro), who is working as a volunteer here for a couple days. She was excited to see me, as apparently I was expected by the caretaker, who is an Englishman. She quickly gave me a rootbeer, and asked if I would wait for the caretaker to return. I told her that I had plenty of time, and we settled on the porch. Some time later, I finally met the caretaker, Trailboss, and he happily carried out a box of PG Tips and a teapot from his house. We drank tea and chatted. Trailboss is from Somerset, but has been living in the US for decades and has spent a great deal of time on the AT (including building the rollercoaster). After, he invited me to stay for dinner and to use the beds inside the house if I wanted. Since I didn't want to go to Harpers Ferry until tomorrow, and I couldn't turn down a free dinner and a free bed, I decided to stay the night. I must note that I am very grateful to Trailboss and Why for their hospitality, it was very lovely to not have to eat instant mash and sleep on my horrible roll mat. After deciding to stay, I settled on a soft chair on the porch and read more of my book. The porch has a net that goes all around, so I was able to enjoy the outside without the millions of bugs and enormous bees that were flying around. Annoyingly, somehow stink bugs managed to get through. There are even a few in the bunk room right now. Whilst I was reading, a couple of section hikers showed up. They asked me a few questions about my hike, as is the norm. I answered as best I could, but my way of talking feels different these days. It's slower than before, and my answers feel more weary. I think this is because I feel weary. It's hard to explain about how I feel about the trail. I am having the most incredible time, but also the most painful and enduring time. I know that I would never want to put myself through this again, but I have no regrets about putting myself through this now (just the once). Sometimes I am walking along and I am filled with the most intense happiness, and other times I just feel like I'm barely dragging myself along. It's hard to find a balance that isn't just complete ambivalence and detachment from the experience. Tomorrow, I plan to hike the last 13 miles into Harpers Ferry, with a brief stop at the AT Conservancy along the way. The elevation profile looks wonderfully smooth and largely downhill. I am hoping there aren't too many rocks so I can hike and read some more of the Count of Monte Cristo, which is steadily building into a dramatic and convoluted conclusion that I am eager to unwind. Frustratingly, Harpers Ferry itself does not offer any real cheap options for accommodation, so I don't know where I will be staying yet. I know that I absolutely need to do laundry and get a new shirt, so I can go on a trip to Washington DC (a short, cheap train ride away) without appearing homeless.