Date: 2004-09-29
From: Monson, ME

To: Long Pond Stream Lean-to
Miles today: 15.1
Weather: overcast clouds

What a marvelous evening we spent in the company of Darlene and the kids Samuel and Katherine! I spent the night on the pull-out bed in front of a large picture window. My view was a lovely lake reflecting a glorious full harvest moon. I awoke at 3 a.m. and watched the moon float across the sky from one shore to the other. The morning's sunrise proved to be a worthy encore.One of my expectations of this hiking extravaganza was the numerous opportunities to sleep under a star-filled sky with no intrusive artificial light. I expected to be waking to sunrises filling the wide open horizons, and ending my days observing a sky filled with the embers of magnificent sunsets. Disappointedly, that is not the reality. There have been very few shelters placed anywhere but deep in the protective canopy of the forests. Sleeping cowboy-style on a mountaintop or bald always is risking losing a gamble with the rain gods. So sadly, I've had only one experience of sleeping under the stars. And indeed, the night's rest was interrupted at 4:15 a.m. by a sudden shower.Thus, the changing of the guard from the night sky to the morning awakening was a treasured vision, especially when viewed from the shelter and warmth of Lake Shore House!At 8 a.m. we parted company with Darlene and now we've entered the 100-mile wilderness carrying five days' worth of food. Our desire is to average 15-mile days, exiting after 7 days, only 14 miles from the peak of Katahdin. Our small resupply box should be waiting 70 miles in at a hostel called White House Landing. Obviously, that is my final maildrop. I left instructions with homebase to send only 10 meals (5 apiece) and 5 cups trail mix as anything arriving in that box we will be forced to carry. As usual, excellent weather greeted our return to the trail. Our biggest challenge of the day was the fording of two streams. Arriving at the first crossing we found One Thing sitting on a boulder midway across. From my vantage point the difficulty of the crossing was not apparent so I was baffled by his hesitation. After his successful trek it was my turn. Off came the shoes, into plastic went my camera, and with erred confidence I started across. Whoa! It's amazing how much strength even a mild current possesses. The bottom was nothing but large, perfectly rounded, moss-covered, slippery rocks. Following One Thing's instructions, I planted my poles and once secure, gingerly lifted a foot, feeling for some place solid between the rocks to land. Had the stream been more than 50 feet across and 3 feet deep, I'd probably still be there inching my way, or sitting on that same boulder on which One Thing was resting. "Next time", I thought, "I'll try a tactic other than bare feet."My next time was before me in two hours. It appeared as though every possible dry path was shy one strategically placed rock ... except (I hoped) this one a short distance downstream. "If I can stretch to that one slightly-wet and gently-tilted rock I'll have it made. Ready, set, hop ..." and plop!! It wasn't total immersion thank goodness, only thigh-high. But my shoes and socks are thoroughly soaked, my knee a little bruised as it crashed onto a rock in front of me, and my pride and self-confidence a tad injured. A wee bit wiser, I returned to the most obvious crossing and plodded through. I began the day in my second new pair of New Balance 1100's. The bath in the stream should help soften and mold them to my feet. (BTW: my New Balance shoes WERE sent to Gorham via USPS, guaranteed Friday afternoon delivery - they arrived and were signed for at 2:55 p.m. NB did a search and located them in Massachusetts somewhere! So they had another pair resent, this time to Monson, and will track and have the other pair returned. FUTURE THRU-HIKERS BEWARE! Gorham, NH post office is NOT a good choice. Ursa's camera, my shoes, our box, and now I've spoken with at least three others who have had a major goof originating in Gorham ... 'nuf said.)Today was another day of putting miles behind us. I've set up my tent. Everyone else is in the shelter: Tripod, One Thing, Ursa, and now Two Dogs. The latter arrived at 7:30 in the dark, a small casualty to the fording also. His elbow is a bloody mess but with Ursa's and my doctoring with Melaleuca oil, it should look better in the morning. It is very cold tonight. I'm feeling very tired and for one of the few times on the trail, I've uttered and whined "I wanna go home!". But with less than 100 miles remaining it would take a team of oxen to pull me off the AT before I touch the Katahdin summit sign. I'll crawl on hands and knees, swim across a river if I must, but I'm not leaving without reaching my goal. I'm SO close!!!!!