Date: 2005-10-16
From: Brown's Gap Shelter

To: Sassafras Gap Shelter
Miles today: 9.1
Weather: clear sky

We woke up to a chilly and crystal clear morning. Soon after leaving the shelter, we could hear the traffic on NC 143 which we would cross at Stecoah Gap. I could easily identify the Harleys out for their Sunday morning rides. I have to say that although I could hear other types of motorcycles, the some of the Harleys are by far the most obnoxious! (You know; "loud pipes save lives!") Sorry, Bob! (Ghost rides a Harley, but he has matured beyond the need for ear-crakingly loud pipes. But then, he had ridden BMW's for many years before buying his first Harley, so...)The trail went up and down, but nothing too serious until we began the huge, long, never ending climb up Cheoah Bald (5062 ft.). I climbed this mountain once before, northbound, but don't remember it being so steep for so long. What I do remember is that it was hot and Blazer, my beautiful Bernese Mountain Dog, got overheated and we had to let him lay down and we cooled him with water. He was a great trail dog, and he loved hiking. His best times were hiking with a group. It seemed that he had an instinct about what to do, and what not to do, on the trail. He recovered just fine. It took us several hours to reach the summit and I was thankful for the cool weather on this day. On the way up, we were passed by 2 young and very speedy southbound thru-hikers, Tarkus and Leroy (their trail names), from upstate New York. They climbed Katahdin on June 6th and will reach Springer Mountain in about a week from now. Springer, the southern terminus of the AT, is still 142 miles away, so you can see the kind of daily miles they are covering. I caught up with Leroy as he took a sunbath on top of the bald and he was kind enough to take a picture of Fred and me. I was surprised at how overgrown the bald was. When I was last htere, it was much more open. But, there were beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and no fog to keep us from enjoying them. Tarkus had become somewhat wary of the trail ahead in Georgia because of the rough terrain being encountered here. He said it was the most difficult terrain since he and Leroy had gone through New Hampshire and the White Mountains. We continued on to the shelter. We were soon joined by Tom and Ryan, from Chicago, out for a short vacation hike. Tom has cerebral palsey, but that has not kept him from enjoying many outdoor adventures with Ryan. They grew up together and have been friends since they were toddlers and lived across the street from each other. Tom has a significant speech impediment, making him somewhat difficult to understand, but has a delightful personality and quick wit. The night is clear, very cold, and the moon is full.Tomorrow, we will reach the Nantahala Outdoor Center. I have made the difficult decision to hike on alone again. I have thoroughly enjoyed Fred's company and don't think I could ever find a better trail buddy. But, I'm feeling a lot of self-imposed pressure to maximize the fundraising aspect of this journey and need to make as many miles as possible in the time I have left this season. With cold weather and hunting season setting in, I'd like to finish this portion of the hike in a couple of weeks. The trail amazes me every day with new lessons, but one has been just how dear and special it is to be missed at home.....-Landcruiser