Date: 2004-06-09
From: Palmerton, PA

To: Vernon, NJ
Miles today: 99.3

6/4 - 6/5/04 Friday - SaturdayIn Which Sugar Daddy and Haiku Hike 41 Miles Overnight.So Sugar Daddy and I were sitting in Palmerton checking our email when we realised that the next day was Saturday, and that the post office in Delaware Water Gap, 36 miles away, was going to close at 11:30. We finished our email and decided we could do a long haul and get there in time. That determined, we went out for Chinese food with MoonPie, who was planning to stay in town for the day. After lunch we went to the post office in Palmerton, and while we were there a woman asked if we were thru-hikers. We answered that we were, and she offered us a ride to the Trail, two miles out of town. No need to hitch! We got to the Trail at 2:45.The climb out was steep, and over huge boulders, which was fun, as we had to abandon our poles and use our hands to scramble over the rocks. On the climb up, and on the ridge above for the next few miles, there were no trees. No vegetation of any kind, in fact, and with nothing to hold the soil down there's just bare rock. Years ago the zinc processing plant in Palmerton caused the deforestation, and now the area is a Superfund site. Still, it gave an otherworldly appearance to the landscape, and despite the destruction it was beautiful in its own way.Sugar Daddy and I hiked the sixteen miles to the first shelter, where we pulled in at 8:30, just as it was getting dark. The spring was half a mile down the hill, and we raced down, but didn't get back pu to the shelter until after dark. As we ate dinner we discussed whether we should push on then and camp, or nap for a while at the shelter and wake up early. We opted for staying at the shelter, since the forecast was for rain.We slept for four hours, waking at 2:00 in the omrning. After a quick breakfast we headed out, hitting the Trail by 2:30. At four it began to rain, adding to the discomfort we already had because of walking on the rocks in the dark. The rocks! Up until now I haven't thought the dreaded PA rocks were that bad. Until now. Not only did both the strings on my gaiters get cut as I walked, but an extra-sharp rock sliced a half-inch gash in my shoe and "bit" my toe. I'm no longer a PA rocks fan.Eventually the sun came up and we could turn off our headlamps. At 8:00 we arrived at the next shelter, 14 miles from where we'd rested. Just six and a half miles to go, we were right on schedule. We got to the PO at 10:30, an hour before it closed.At the PO we ran into Sunshine, who'd been ahead of us but took three days off the Trail. We all went out to breakfast at the diner in Delaware Water Gap, and discovered that they served Belgian waffle sundaes, three scoops of ice cream, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, and strawberry topping. The size of a plate. We each ordered one, and an omelet and hashbrowns and toast.Across the Delaware River was the next state: New Jersey. Gorged but falling asleep, Sugar Daddy and I hiked out of town in the rain another five miles to a campsite, the closest place to stay,k since the nearest shelter was twenty-five miles away, and no camping was allowed except in designated areas. We came across the caretaker, Michael, a NJ ridgerunner. Since it was raining he offered us the use of his tent, a collossal affair big enough to sleep ten. It didn't take much to fall asleep, and I was dead to the world before the sun went down.6/6/04 SundayIt was raining when we woke, but we rained dry in the caretaker's tent. After a leisurely breakfast the rain had stopped, and Sugar Daddy and I set off.We soon came to Sunfish Pond, the first glacial pond encountered on the Trail. The fog was heavy, and the lapping water melded into the clouds so we couldn't see the far shore, and the view was eerie and beautiful.We planned on stopping for lunch at the Mohican Outdoor Center, an AMC hug just off the Trail. We timed it just right, because we encountered a John Kerry campaign fundraiser just ending, and they asked us if we'd like any of the leftovers from their picnic. Well...yeah! Mozzarella cheese in herbs and olive oil, bread, chips, melon and ginger, wine. These people know how to feed thru-hikers. They even gave us a bottle of Merlot to carry to the next shelter. After we'd finished off all the food we hung around the hut to rest, and saw a bear in the woods across the road. So far, New Jersey has been very good to us: shelter in the rain, fewer rocks, free food, bear sightings, great views. There even seem to be fewer cobwebs stretched across the trail. We marvelled at how great New Jersey is all the way to the shelter.We got in just at dark, and found the shelter nearly full. Stanimal and Bigfoot were there, as well as Happy, Mrs. Gorp, and two weekend hikers, Mary and Sean, celebrating their first anniversary. We shared the wine and talked into the night.6/7/04 MondayOnce again we took our time in the morning, but we were determined to get to the shelter tonight before dark (for a change). We hiked to Culver's Gap, to find that the famous Worthington's Bakery had closed. Deprived of snacks we climbed Sunrise Mtn. and ate lunch at the pavilion at the top, with a great view of New Jersey spread out before us. We were short on water, and didn't have much in the way of stream crossings ahead of us, so we were pleasantly surprised when someone in the parking lot offered to fill our water bottles from the gallon jug of water he had with him. Once again, New Jersey came through for us!We'd heard that the ticks were bad at Mashipacong Shelter, but when we got there to sign the register and saw them literally climbing up the wood of the shelter platform we knew that "bad" was an understatement. We grabbed the register and retreated to sign it standing up, then tossed it back into the shelter. In the bear box for the shelter we found all sorts of goodies left by the trail angel Desperado. We'd been hearing about Desperado for a few miles now, so it was nice to find the goodies.As we left the shelter and crossed the road below, we saw a man at the picnic table in the parking lot. It was Desperado himself! We stopped for a chat, and he loaded us up with oranges, snacks, sodas, and juice, pausing only long enough to let us chew before giving us more goodies. We ended up talking with him for almost two hours, and he had a lot of stories to tell, starting from his meeting Earl Shaffer thirty years ago. While we were talking, a huge group of girls, foreign camp counselors on a staff training outing, passed by, heading for the tick shelter. I was tempted to go back to the shelter for the night....We ended up hiking to High Point Shelter, after spending half an hour taking pictures of the High Point Monument. Once again, we got in just at dark. I guess we have Desperado to blame.6/8/04 TuesdaySince I have a lot of time to kill before getting to Bear Mountain, I hiked just over five miles today, stopping at the "Secret Shelter" which isn't listed in the guide book. Built by Jim Murray, a former thru-hiker, this shelter is only marked by a small sign, but it has electricity, running water, and an outdoor shower. A cozy little place, perfect for holing up in for the day. Sugar Daddy hiked out before noon, since he wants to get to Bear Mountain a few days before I do. I stuck around, and Stanimal and Bigfoot arrived, then they went into town to catch the post office. There isn't much to write about, but it was a very relaxing day.6/9/04 WednesdayI left the Secret Shelter early, because the day was already heating up. All of the mosquitoes in New Jersey seemed to be buzzing in my ears, and a lot of the Trail was through boggy areas. There was a long stretch without water, but twice along the Trail people had left jugs of water to fill up from. Very thoughtful.The Trail went through two wildlife refuges today, one circling around a wetland area near the Wallkill River, and the other following a boardwalk through a huge marsh near the Pochuck Creek. Both were different, and a nice change from walking through the woods.I came out on a road crossing and went to Heaven Hill Farms, where I got a huge banana split sundae. It was perfect for the heat of the day. From there I hitched into Vernon, NJ, to the St. Thomas Episcopal Church Hostel, where I'm staying for the night. The hostel is in the basement, and is a pleasant refuge from the heat.