Date: 2010-05-05
From: Roan High Knob Shelter

To: Elk Park, NC (Mountain Harbor B&B/Hostel)
Miles today: 15.9

Good night¢s sleep in the highest shelter on the AT last night¢¦a lot warmer than I thought it would be this high up¢¦probably didn¢t get below 40-45. I was actually pretty quick on getting stuff together this morning and hit the trail about 7:46. Lots of big up and downs today. There are many balds in this area of the trail and there is a lot of speculation as to what or who may have caused them because they are all below the tree line. Some say the early pioneers cleared them (not likely); some say the local Indians cleared them (not likely); some say disease/beetles cleared them (not likely); and some say aliens cleared them (bingo). Anyway, they are in my way, so I must climb them. I love the 360 degree views you get from these balds, but they are not very fun to climb¢¦just grassy meadows with the sun beating down on you¢¦definitely some burning today even though I put sunscreen on 3 times. Went up and down two pretty good sized balds and then hit Overmountain Shelter. I really wanted to stay here, but I couldn¢t do the extra 7 miles yesterday. This shelter is an old barn that has been converted into a huge shelter¢¦very cool! Next up were Little Hump and Hump Mountains¢¦hiking these on hump day by the way. Two pretty steep climbs (900 ft and 600 ft) each over about a mile¢¦tough climbs! Did I say it was hot out? Also went across the TN/NC state line for the last time¢¦strictly TN for the next 70-80 miles. The hiking day was almost finished and I was on the home stretch into Mountain Harbor Hostel/B&B. Beer run from the hostels are typically around 5 and I thought I was going to make it (also gave Ziggy some cash in case I didn¢t make it in time¢¦always have a backup plan). Well, I was coming down a very rocky stretch of the trail when I ran into Choteau sitting in the middle of it. I hadn¢t met Choteau yet, but had heard his name. Evidently, he'd been sitting there about an hour waiting for someone to come by. I know, you are thinking the same thing I am: Ziggy was supposed to be ahead of me...where the hell is he and who's going to get my beer if I'm late? OK, maybe you were wondering what Choteau was doing in the middle of the trail for so long? Well, he'd turned his ankle a few miles back and had made it this far, but just couldn't go any farther. You don't know how many times I've thought about being in this same situation with a bum ankle or knee...just some of the minutiae that floats through your head while you're walking all day. Anyway, we're going through multiple scenarios to get Choteau down the last 2 miles of the trail without having to call in emergency workers...he's a paramedic and would never live this down. HE decides crawling without his pack is the best option and makes it and makes it about 100 yards when he decides this is probably not the long-term solution. In the meantime, I take my pack down the trail a ways and then come back and get his pack and bring it down. About 5 people come by us...bascially say hi as they pass by...everyone is trying to make the beer/dinner shuttle at the hostel...including Ziggy! Finally, he shows up...stopped for water and to clean his dog up, so that's how I got ahead of him. He even knows Choteau, but he passes right by...he was focused on the beer run. At this point, I'm fine with that...Ziggy needs to get my beer because it doesn't look like I'm going to make it on time. Long story shorter: two guys stopped and gave Choteau an ankle brace, Gray Wanderer actually carried his pack and Choteau's to the shelter (1.5 miles), another guy carried Choteau's pack to the hostel, and Choteau was able to limp into the hostel with me just following along with water and moral support. Took us about 2 hours to do 2 miles...long way to end the hiking day. The hostel was full, but we lucked out...the B&B portion had some empty rooms, so Mary (the owner) said Choteau, Gray Wanderer, and I could have a room with a king bed and a day bed for $20/person...main thing was access to a separate bathroom and staying in the main house and not in the bunkhouse. Sharing a king bed with almost a complete stranger is no longer a problem after sleeping in the shelters on the trail...we could probably get 4 people into this king bed and have more room than in the shelter. We also got in just in time to order pizza...Mary's husband was on his way to pick up the order, but we did a rush order for 3 more...and Ziggy came through with my 6 pack! Lots of people in the bunkhouse. Great place...working farm with a creek running through it...wrap around porch on the main house...great deck on the bunkhouse overlooking the farm...very nice. Looking forward to the breakfast tomorrow. Cheers.