Date: 2005-05-11
From: Catawba Mountain Shelter

To: US220 - Howard Johnson Motel
Miles today: 17.8

An eventful day. Skillet and Bottle asked me to awaken them at 5:00, and as usual, I was awake at that time so I did rouse them, although the actual getting up was up to them! The day's plans included hiking to McAfee Knob and Tinker's Cliffs - two famous trail sights - and a night in the motel at US220. I was up early and everything went smoothly as I got prepared for the day. The maps showed a challenging hike right out of camp up to McAfee Knob, so I was prepared mentally. It was almost two miles uphill to get there but I did not think it particularly difficult. McAfee Knob is essentially a set of cliffs and rocky outcroppings with rock overhangs jutting out into the air off the mountain face. I had seen many pictures from other hikers at this location and was anticipating being there myself. It was beautiful and I got several pictures. The descent began with challenging terrain at first but it leveled out to arrive at the Campbell Shelter a mile below the rim. I took a break there and signed the shelter register. There were several miles of relatively easy hiking followed by the climb to Tinker's Cliffs. That climb was quite steep and wore me out. Tinker's Cliffs are very beautiful, a long set of rocky cliffs with house sized boulders and 300 to 400 foot drops to the treetops below. The trail ran right next to the edge for nearly half a mile - I was careful. I have many pictures from up there, some of which are shots back toward McAfee Knob. Really awesome to look back to where I had been earlier in the morning. McAfee Knob is the highest mountain across the valley from the cliffs. The actual rock knob area looked small and unbelieveably close to the mountain crest from that distance, close to the sky and seeming to be very insignificant. The miniscule little line near where the mountain and sky came together belied the actual size and majesty of those rocky overhangs defying gravity. That gave testimony to the distance I had traveled. I could see the general route down to the Campbell Shelter area and then a long curving arc of mountain ridge with multiple peaks over which I had hiked to the beginning of the ascent up to Tinker's Cliffs. The rise and fall of those peaks was sprawled out in a row before me. It was great to re-trace the route and the terrain I had covered. On the way up to the cliffs I met a woman named Gerwin. She had a large Saint Bernard, a beautiful German Shepherd, and a small terrier with her. She was out for a day hike to the cliffs and beyond. She went on ahead as I expected to ascend slowly with the heavy pack full of yesterday's resupply. Gerwin said she was named after both grandmothers - I imagined Gertrude and Winifried, but I did not verify my guesses. As I arrived at Lambert's Meadow Shelter, Gerwin came by again and we talked for awhile as I prepared lunch. She had a German accent and was an upbeat lady. She was probably between 60 and 70, and very wiry and strong - a good hiker. She also knew a lot about the area and this section of the trail. I stayed at the shelter for 1 1/2 hours to eat and nap. Skillet and Bottle came in and we talked until 1:30 when I left. The afternoon was a 9 1/2 mile hike to US220. The map and elevation chart showed a relatively easy route. Again, I was in for a Virginia ridgeline surprise. It was a long, hot, rocky, difficult hike, with repeating 200 foot climbs and steep descents over unstable sections of trail. Sometimes I would be walking down a steep slope over small stones, and they would give way under my feet. Other times the trail was normal treadway, but I would slide forward down the steep incline. My legs kept the brakes on all afternoon on these descents. My hiking poles saved me from numerous falls, with the accompanying strain of arm and leg muscles. At Angel's Gap I took one of my many breaks. It was a quiet place with some clearing in the forest of mostly hardwoods, some quite large. It was warm and sunny. I listened to the birds and the other sounds of the forest. I took off my pack and sat on a log to eat a snack, and while pondering it all I came to the realization that my feet were so sore that I could not continue. I was hiking by sheer will power. Stopping to enjoy this spot made me realize that, while hiking, it was all about my feet, and I was not really experiencing the creation around me. Virginia is too beautiful to miss by being preoccupied with pain. After today I would have about 20 miles remaining to Bearwallow Gap and the end of my planned hike for this year. How important were those 20 miles? Although a little disappointing, I knew the condition of my feet dictated that I consider ending the hike after today's section was completed. After thinking about it for a few minutes, that course of action felt right, so it was decided. I stayed there a little while longer to enjoy the private quiet time in the woods. As I continued I was mostly hobbling along. The remaining 5+ miles took a long time over more very tough ridgeline terrain, although the views to the valleys were beautiful. Finally I began the last two miles of descent to the low elevation road crossing. That was a relief. After the initial quick descent, the trail leveled off some and it was more typical forest hiking with switchbacks, graded trail, and open views into the forest of late afternoon. Though my feet still hurt I got that old feeling back as I enjoyed the beauty around me. I still loved the hike but making miles is not the issue. You have to experience and appreciate what your hiking shows you. I had gotten beyond that experience and I knew it. I knew I was getting close (1/2 mile to go) when I passed the campsite at Tinker Creek where Skillet and Bottle planned to camp later tonight. The last half mile was quite level, and the treadway widened out as is typical when the trail comes close to civilization where local hikers use it. The last few hundred yards the weeds and grass on either side of the trail were mowed - like with a lawnmower. Welcome to our city! I came to the road with a huge sigh of relief. There was a Howard Johnson's Motel a few hundred feet to the right. I registered, went to my room and threw off my gear. I tried to shower, but my feet were too painful to stand so I quickly switched to a bath, followed eventually by a real shower. I knew my decision to stop was the right one. Later I got dressed and slowly padded across the road to a Pizza Hut. Back to my room and I was content to sprawl across the bed and watch cable news and sports channels and let my feet bask in non-use. I am very satisfied with this beautiful hike and do not regret my cutting it short by 20 miles. I did a little over 190 miles and it was a great trip. It was perfect. I do not have much left so I will lay here and rest until I fall asleep. I love you Sweetheart. Goodnight.