Date: 2007-07-12
From: Eliza Brook Shelter

To: Garfield Ridge Campsite
Miles today: 19.1
Weather: broken clouds

White Mountains, New Hampshire, Day 2. After the "Day of Hell" yesterday, I was ready for a change of pace. But starting out was just more of the same. Started the day hiking with Dogfather, their dog, and Thrills (Dogfather's girlfriend who he'd met on the trail back in Hiawassee). I really liked these two and of all the trail-formed couples I had met, these two showed the most promise.Step one out of Eliza Brook shelter was, of course, Eliza Brook. There was no alternative, with the recent rains, but to ford this river. Dogfather and Thrills patiently took off their hiking boots and put on their crocs for this. I just followed the dog across the river without taking off my shoes and socks. How much more wet could they get already? My shoes and socks got soaked in water and mud all yesterday and then got rained on all night. What would be the point of taking them off now? In fact, I couldn't even remember what walking in dry shoes felt like....like some sort of royal luxury I would never know the pleasure of again. The first major climb was up Mount Kinsman, another straight up ascent that had me bitching about the lack of switchbacks. I mean really, switchbacks..would that really have been so hard, you evil northeasterners and your straight up trails. And some hikers prefer this. They like to get the climbing over and done with. Not me. I like a back-and-forth amble up a big mountain. Then down Mount Kinsman and to the road leads off trail to Woodstock, NH. This is where most sensible people get off trail for a day to dry out and rest. Oh, but not insane gopher. nope. onward and upward. A short break here, I felt like a troll, or a grocery cart-less homeless person, huddled underneath the highway bridge eating my peanutbutter tortilla. And up again, this time up to the Franconia Ridge. Another neverending climb, and I was starting to sincerely hate New Hampshire. And then I came up to the ridge, my first experience above treeline without being fogged in, as the sun had finally come out. Off in the distance, I could see Lincoln and Lafeyette peaks, connected by a ridgeline trail. "OOOOOOHHHHHH...I GET IT NOW!!!!" I thought, "This is what the white mountains are all about." Simply breathtaking seeing the vast wilderness from this vantage point. I spent a lot of time soaking in the views from the tops of these peaks and enjoying the rare break in the weather. Made my way off the ridge and another couple of miles to the Garfield Ridge Campsite. Here, met the famous girl Hellbender and Patrick, who were shacking up in a 2 person tent together. They were about the nicest couple I'd ever met and we had a great time jabbering about all the people we'd seen in all the states we'd walked. Also, Sundance Kid and Pinky came into camp late..their public affection for eachother was sincerely grossing me out. They informed me that Dogfather and Thrills changed their minds about walking this far and instead got off the trail at Woodstock for a day or two. something about their dog not wanting to hike up these rocks. This made me a little sad since I had quite enjoyed their company. I slept well, feeling like I finally got my money's worth for a White Mountains hike.