morvasaaty/AppalachianTrail-LD-Hikers-Blogs-and-Weather-20-years huggingface dataset:
Date: 2019-03-19
From: Winding Stair Gap

To: Wine Spring Tenting Area
Miles today: 8.2

After a wonderful rest in Franklin with Joani, "El Presidente" and I were delivered safely back to the trail at Winding Stair Gap. Starting at noon, I only expected to hike in 4-5 miles. But the rest (and maybe the 3 waffles at Comfort Inn) kept me moving along to reach the Wine Spring Tenting sites. In Franklin I switched out my little 1-person ultralight tent for our old workhorse, the MSR HubbaHubba NX tent. It was so nice to have the flexibility to use a tent that had room for me AND my gear. Just a lot more comfortable. Given that the coldest night so far on my little trek was expected overnight, the tent can actually be warmer for sleeping than an open shelter. And...no snoring bedmates. The weather this afternoon was warm and sunny but if tomorrow is truly the first day of spring, the birds are not yet ready to announce it. The woods are still gray and bare, and very few critters are to be seen. I do hear the occasional drumming thrum of ruffed grouse early in the mornings. I look for the first little wildflowers. Seems the earlier spring wildflowers are all small, yet the colors are striking against the winter gray; mountain bluets, yellow ragwort, purple and yellow violets. I shared Wine Spring with 3 other tenting parties and the water source is convenient and clear...Hubba Hubba.
Date: 2019-03-20
From: Wine Spring Tenting Area

To: Big Branch Tenting Area
Miles today: 9.7

I spent my coldest night yet, but wore every piece of clothing I was carrying, put handwarmer packets at the foot of my sleeping bag, pulled my knit balaclava down over my head...and got some fitful sleep. One advantage of going to bed at dark and getting up at first light is that out of the approximately 11 hours of potential sleep time, on this cold night I still managed to get 7-8 hours of rest. The moon was fabulous all night and the morning broke clear and crisp. A gradual warming all day along the trail made a short stop at Wayah Bald Tower a real treat. Spectacular views and a very cool stone tower for some local history. Big Branch Tenting area isn't up to the Wine Spring standard. There is very little level ground for tents. The poor site was made easier by the good company. Three of the folks from the previous night were there and we all shared the cooking area and chatted. The Alabama Boys (section hikers) and a young lady through-hiker who was quite an expert on the harvest of wild mushrooms for food made for an interesting close of the day. More hikers piled in late and scrambled nearby for non-existent level ground. Watching others thrash around trying to hang their food bags up in trees to keep bears from pillaging made me thankful for my bear canister. It's heavy but damned convenient to put all my food in one container, carry it into the woods a ways and drop it on the ground. And it made a great seat while I cooked and ate my evening meal. Worth the extra 2lbs.
Date: 2019-03-21
From: Big Branch Tenting Area

To: Wesser/Bryson City, NC
Miles today: 9.6

Walking up and over Wesser Bald and along the spine of the Nantahala Range towards the Smokies, one can sense the gradual changes in the landscape. The ridgeline north of Wesser was exposed, rocky and dry. Previous fires along the ridgetop have opened up a lot more views on either side of the narrow path. I don't know if this was a prescribed fire or a natural one, but the good effect on regeneration of pines was evident everywhere. Small pine seedlings (perhaps Table Mountain Pines) were here and there. Their cones need a hot fire to explode the seeds and regenerate their kind. I like to think they are Table Mountain Pines even though I'm not sure they grow this far south and west. They are a endemic to my home area of the southern Appalachians and I like rare things. After descending steep steps down off the narrow ridgeline, the AT takes a long, meandering downhill glide to Wesser, NC. The reward of another reunion with Joani and a zero day in Bryson City was highlighted by hundreds of small, white Hepatica flowers growing along the switchbacks of the trail near the bottom. These are truly among the early harbingers of spring and renewal. We enjoyed a bowl of hot chili and a beer at Nantahala Outdoor Center, then a great meal in Bryson City after a visit to Nantahala Brewing's Taproom. The promise is of another zero day tomorrow to rest and regroup.
Date: 2019-03-22
From: Bryson City, NC

To: Bryson City, NC
Miles today: 0.0

I enjoyed another zero day and we end it refreshed and renourished with good food and some beer. Bryson City is a great little mountain town at the southern edge of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. There is lots of history here, predating the creation of the park. Horace Kephart's book, "Our Southern Highlanders" paints a realistic portrait of the early pioneers in this rugged foothill region of the Smokies. To the east is the Qualla Reservation of the Cherokee. To the west lies the long and scenic Fontana Lake. The Tuckaseegee River flows right through town, attracting fly fishermen, kayakers and tubers. Tomorrow I head back to Wesser, NC and the trail.
Date: 2019-03-23
From: Wesser/Bryson City, NC

To: Locust Grove Gap Tenting Area
Miles today: 10.6

After a great break in Bryson City, Joani drove me back into the Nantahala Gorge and my trail connection at Nantahala Outdoor Center. On arrival we saw Mr. President, a nice reunion. I was anxious to get moving again, and was crossing the bridge over the river and bidding Joani a farewell by 9:15am. It was a cold morning but sunny with the promise of a warm, clear day. I was not disappointed. The climb out of the north side of the gorge is steady, almost relentless. But it was not too steep. By midday I found myself at Cheoah Bald, a beautiful, open grassy slope looking southward. From there it is mostly a descending trail to the night's destination at Locust Grove. Not a large tenting area as things go, but I found a quiet, level spot, and good water was nearby. Tenting was more enjoyable that night with the milder temperatures. A late-rising moon made it hard to tell when night was ending and the new day dawning. But I got an early start at any rate.
Date: 2019-03-24
From: Locust Grove Gap Tenting Area

To: Cable Gap Shelter
Miles today: 11.7
Weather: scattered clouds

Today was a rugged hike. After leaving Locust Grove the trail meanders downward to Stecoah Gap. There is a convenient little picnic table there for a break, but the paved highway was strangely quiet. Beyond Stecoah the trail heads sharply up again out of the gap. This a familiar characteristic of the trail. Climb to ridges, then descend to "gaps", then climb steeply out again. Beyond Stecoah is a named climb..."Jacob's Ladder". There are no rungs or steel handholds, just a series of short, steep switchbacks as you make your way up and over a prominent conical peak. It challenges the lungs but I am learning to slow my steps and plug along. Eventually, all climbs end. It reminded me of my new cliche for hiking the AT..."It's a simple life, but it's not an easy one".
Date: 2019-03-25
From: Cable Gap Shelter

To: Fontana Dam
Miles today: 7.1

After the warmest night yet of this adventure, I got a very early start up the trail by 8am. More gradual signs of change in the woods were evident. I Flushed a panicky grouse up from right off the edge of the trail. Blue-headed vireos were singing all morning long. And as I descended the mountain to Fontana Lake, suddenly the ground was covered with trilliums just starting to open their maroon buds. Silver bell trees became noticeable for the first time. And despite a light rain and fog that made sightseeing difficult, I reached the lake and saw the new set of mountains I will face, the Great Smokies, looming to the north. Farewell to the Nantahala Range.
Date: 2019-03-26
From: Fontana Dam

To: Russell Fields Shelter
Miles today: 14.5

After some rest and reorganization at Fontana Lodge, a dozen or so backpackers piled into the van and were dropped off at the trail near where it crosses the Fontana Dam into Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The day was damp and a shroud of low clouds hung over and among the mountains to the north. The day turned into a long hike in the clouds. But what a fitting way to enter one of America's great rainforests. Later in the day, as the warm air melted the rime ice from the tops of the trees, hikers were pelted lightly with large droplets. These and the general foggy cloud made for a wet day. Reaching my destination for the night at Russell Fields Shelter, I found no room in the inn, so I set up my tent. The wind was howling through the gap and it promised to be a very cold night. Fortunately the wind died down, the moon rose late in the night, and I awoke fairly well rested.
Date: 2019-03-27
From: Russell Fields Shelter

To: Silers Bald Shelter
Miles today: 14.7
Weather: few clouds

This day broke cold but clear. The day of up-and-down hiking along the central spine of the Smokies was made easier by beautiful blue skies and a warm sun. The 5000+ foot elevations of Rocky Top and then Thunderhead were my introduction to many more miles of high-elevation hiking to come. While walking along towards Silers Gap, I was repeatedly buzzed by a small helicopter towing a large cargo bag below it. It flew off to the south and east out of my vision, hovered, then returned towards the general direction of Cades Cove to the NW. After several runs like this, I had approached close enough to see that building materials were being delivered to the location of another shelter at Spence Field. Later, a fellow hiker said they were tearing down the old privy and getting ready to reconstruct a new and improved version at the shelter. Where does the money come from for such undertakings? How lucky we are as hikers to have volunteers, agencies and support groups willing to work so hard for our benefit. Arriving at Silers Gap shelter, I felt a new appreciation for the constant work being done to make the AT an accessible, safe trail for thousands of users every year.
Date: 2019-03-28
From: Silers Bald Shelter

To: NewFound Gap
Miles today: 12.2

Not too far east of Silers Bald, the bare, hardwood forest changes suddenly to a lush spruce/fir forest. The shade creates a wet, mossy forest floor. This "Canadian Zone" is a remnant of the more northern woods that were pushed down into the southeast by the advancing ice age. When things warmed up and the ice retreated the northern woods hung on at the highest elevations of these mountains. Along with the evergreens, northern critters adapted and stayed too; golden-crowned kinglets, black-capped chickadees, red squirrels and red-backed voles. The treat of the day was to reach the viewing tower at Clingman's Dome. The road to the busy tourist spot was still closed for the season, and the weather was perfect. A bunch of us scraggly, unruly backpackers had the entire platform to ourselves. I've driven up to Clingman's Dome maybe 5 times, but getting there the hard way today was special.
Date: 2019-03-29
From: Gatlinburg

To: Gatlinburg
Miles today: 0.0

A hiker's zero day in Gatlinburg is a shock to the system. Tomorrow morning Joani takes me back to NewFound Gap. It was so nice to spend time together, but it will be good to get back in the woods and away from the hustle and bustle. We will leave early to hopefully avoid the traffic jam leading into downtown Gatlinburg and the park.
Date: 2019-03-30
From: NewFound Gap

To: Peck's Corner Shelter
Miles today: 10.7
Weather: overcast clouds

After a relaxing break and resupply in Gatlinburg, Joani drove me back to NewFound Gap for my next half of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park adventure. I have already been on some sections of the AT here, but the weather and seasons are so varied, that each time I travel in this part of the park, it's like a brand new experience. Today was no exception. The sky was clear and the wind was blowing strongly out of the southwest...signs of a warm day in the mountains. I reached the famous spot called Charlie's Bunion and enjoyed the sun, the red squirrels, and some memories of previous visits here. The trail leading eastward from the bunion was narrow and open with views on either side of the "sawtooth" ridgeline. Continuing to hike through northern conifer forest, this part of the park feels like it was dropped into the southeastern United States in some geological mishap, which it kinda was.
Date: 2019-03-31
From: Peck's Corner Shelter

To: Cosby Knob Shelter
Miles today: 12.9
Weather: overcast clouds

The AT meanders up and down along a high, narrow ridgeline from Peck's to Cosby Knob. With all the trees still devoid of leaves, the narrow ridge has lots of beautiful viewing spots, Tennessee to the north and North Carolina to the south. There is a rampant weather rumor mill on the trail. After an all-night downpour at Peck's shelter (what better time to be in a shelter), we awoke to a light dusting of snow. After heading out from Peck's and moving eastward and upward, the evidence of a major snow event here in the high mountains was everywhere....in my face, under my feet, and chilling my bones. The scenery was spectacular and reminded me of my time in Maine. But it made for some difficult and slow going. The AT was a mix of mud and ice, with lots of rocks and roots added to the mix. I have learned from past visits to the park in April that this kind of weather is not unusual, and I was glad to still be carrying the 3-4 pounds of extra gear for cold weather hiking. I used every bit of it.
Date: 2019-04-01
From: Cosby Knob Shelter

To: Standing Bear Farm and Hiker Hostel
Miles today: 11.9

Every 24 hours on the trail can be completely unique. This was one of those times. We awoke at Cosby Knob Shelter (with our full complement of 14 snoring, coughing, toss-and-turning humans) to the coldest morning since I've been on the trail. No one ever has the accurate temperature on the trail; like the weather in general there are always a wide range of opinions. But based on my experience, it was in the mid to upper teens. My lid on my plastic bear canister was frozen shut. Drinking water bottles kept close at hand were mostly frozen. There was a blanket of snow covering all the trees and the ground. The sun was showing itself with a promising tease of blue sky. The winter wonderland of the Smokies made this April Fool's Day special. It's hard to describe the hub-bub of an early morning in a full shelter. Some get up when the sun is just hinting at daylight, using their red headlamps to scurry around under the covered porch to cook and re-pack for the day. Others (like me) sit in their bags trying to reason with themselves why they should leave the relative warmth of their sleeping bag to do anything...other than maybe go to the bathroom. That's another story. But packed shelters are a social outlet on the trail. A place where we connect with new friends and catch up with old ones. They are especially nice when the weather turns rainy or stormy. On this, my coldest night yet, I slept reasonably warm this way: I wore everything I was carrying in my pack. I have a microfleece sleeping bag liner that adds about 10 degrees to my 32-degree down bag. I helped out my feet by placing two handwarmer packets at the bottom of the liner. I pulled a knit balaclava all the way down over my face and neck and tightened up my mummy sleeping bag around my nose. It worked and I slept pretty well, until I had to go to the bathroom. Twice. But even this has a silver lining. Getting back into my cocoon takes about 5 minutes but I can re-adjust everything that has inevitably shifted. And the midnight comfort break lets me scan the sky, sometimes revealing a spectacular star show.
Date: 2019-04-02
From: Standing Bear Farm and Hiker Hostel

To: Roaring Fork Shelter
Miles today: 15.2
Weather: overcast clouds

After yesterday's exit from GSMNP, including a short side trip to the Mt. Cammerer Fire Tower, I spent a comfortable and friendly night at the Standing Bear Farm and Hostel. Got a bunk in the bunkhouse for twenty bucks. This includes clean towels for all the hot showers you can fit in between eating and socializing. I managed just one, which is more than enough to feel clean again. The staff at Standing Bear were friendly and very helpful. This is truly a business designed specifically for Appalachian Trail hikers. The property is surrounded on three sides by national forest lands, and a nice little mountain stream runs through the property. The hostel itself is a collection of wood and stone buildings, bridges, and gravel pathways connecting them. It's not luxury. Most everything looks to have been built by hand, and all about are signs of work in progress. Laid-back would be the best description of the business operation. After many of us had turned in for the night, one of the staff came quietly in with a load of wood and stoked the fire in the wood-burning stove in the middle of the room. I heard it crackling and sizzling until I faded away. The morning was warmer, and Jess's fabulous breakfast burritos got me charged up for a long day of hiking into the Snowbirds.
Date: 2019-04-03
From: Roaring Fork Shelter

To: Deer Park Shelter and Tenting Area
Miles today: 14.7

After a long day out of Standing Bear and over Max Patch to Roaring Fork Shelter, this morning was clear but cold. Still, the rumors were of a warm-up and before long I was shedding layers of clothing. My intention was to hike about 9-10 miles and find a tenting spot. When you are hiking along the trail, it seems there are little level spots everywhere inviting one to plop your tent down for the night. When you are actually looking for one of these spots, ideally with level ground and water nearby, they are nowhere to be seen. Hearing the first songs of the black-throated green warblers of the season didn't help my mood as I trudged along. The long, dry ridge leading towards Deer Park Mountain made the day seem longer, and the lack of water more concerning. My right foot developed some sore spots, which I've had before but were nonetheless aggravating. Finally I arrived at the little gap and to the right a path led .2 miles to the shelter. To the left is the path for the water. I needed water so I walked down to the stream, and realized along the way that there were a whole series of clearings and level spots where folks had camped and tented. A group of hikers were set up in several tents by the stream. I watered up, and decided on the way back up to the junction that there had to be a perfect tenting spot for me somewhere. I found it and spent the quietest, most comfortable night on the trail in my cozy shelter. Never saw Deer Park Shelter. I packed up the next morning, ate a hearty breakfast and moved on towards Hot Springs and my welcome meet-up with Joani. My mood swing was complete.
Date: 2019-04-04
From: Deer Park Shelter and Tenting Area

To: Hot Springs, NC
Miles today: 3.6

Hiking down the ridge of Deer Park Mtn towards Hot Springs puts a spring in your step on a warm, sunny morning. In fact, I went from the hardest day of hiking to the easy-peasiest just like that. One has many personal and physical milestones along the trail. Some are in your head, others are on the ground. Many aren't really that significant to anyone but yourself. Today my milestone was to be able to zip off the pant legs on my hiking pants for the first time and enjoy the warm air on my scrawny little calves. WooHoo! I also made my first wrong turn. I jokingly tell folks that you have to literally be sleep-walking to get lost on the AT, it is that well marked. So I did make a wrong turn, not in the wilds of the southern Appalachians, but entering town with its street signs and paved roads. After walking about 5 minutes down a paved sidewalk, I got the uncomfortable feeling I was not getting any closer to the little downtown of Hot Springs. A quick look at the map showed that I had zigged when I should have zagged. Reversed course and was soon on Main Street. A welcome and familiar little place to Joani and me. I sat on a bench in the sun and awaited her arrival. We will enjoy another break from the trail together, in the lap of luxury at the Iron Horse Station Inn. Love this place! Went across the street to the Spring Creek Restaurant for a lunch on the covered deck overlooking the stream, and watched NC DNR staff stocking the stream with this year's crop of trout. I had three delicious beers from one of my favorite regional breweries, Innovation Brewing, went back to our room at the inn, and fell fast asleep for an hour or so. Simple pleasures for a simple fool.
Date: 2019-04-05
From: Hot Springs, NC

To: Nowhere
Miles today: 0.0

It rained overnight and into this morning. I lucked out on another planned zero day that kept me off the trail during inclement weather. The laundry is done, we have an appointment for a soaking at the Hot Springs Spa this afternoon, and I had a huge pasta dinner last night. The Iron Horse Station Inn and Tavern is about as comfortable a place as you could ask. The building is from the 1890's and it is restored beautifully. I heard several trains whistling and rumbling through the night, making the run through the mountains along the French Broad River connecting western NC and Tennessee.
Date: 2019-04-06
From: Hot Springs, NC

To: Spring Mountain Shelter
Miles today: 10.6
Weather: overcast clouds

Leaving Hot Springs after a relaxing day with Joani gave me my first taste of loneliness on the trail. Just like the hiking....climbing one hill, then descending to a low gap, then repeating....emotions while I hike are following a similar pattern at this stage. It can be exhilarating one day, a bit depressing the next. Today was a down day. But it bounced back when I reached Rich Mtn Fire tower and enjoyed the bracing air and clear skies. We were actually here in January to take part in a ribbon-cutting ceremony for this fully restored tower. New wood, new roof, all spiffed up thanks to several organizations and the US Forest Service. These old watchtowers are being saved from demolition and restored as viewing platforms all over the U.S. My down day ended up...when I found a perfect tenting site near the shelter, complete with a ready-made pile of dried, cut wood. Me and a couple of my hiking compadres enjoyed a warm campfire way past our normal bedtime of 8pm! As I brushed my teeth and glanced up at the sky, I found the Big Dipper, and then the north star. The way ahead was marked.
Date: 2019-04-07
From: Spring Mountain Shelter

To: Jones Meadow
Miles today: 11.2

Hiked a long way today to find a decent tenting spot that would offer some protection from thunderstorms rumored to be moving in tonight. The weather rumor mill on the trail is as active and wildly inconsistent. But like all those computer models projecting hurricane paths, when enough rumors align, It's time to take cover. I found a spot near water down in a protected cove near Jones Meadow. And lo and behold...after finishing my evening meal, washing up and crawling into my tent, it started to rain. Then it thundered and rumbled, but always in the distance. Were it not for some troublesome minor water leaks at the corners of my tent, it would have been a fairly peaceful night. Still and all, I stayed dry and my gear was stowed neatly inside with me. I heard a lone coyote howl and bark about 4:30am. It sounded relieved also that the worst was over. Some light drizzles the next morning but it stopped long enough to break camp and hike on.