Date: 2015-04-10
From: Winding Stair Gap/Franklin NC

To: Fontana Dam/NC 28
Miles today: 54.9
Weather: light intensity drizzle

It was with a heavy heart that I left Franklin, NC. What a lovely AT trail town with wonderful people. It was Easter Sunday, and the First Baptist Church once again fed a bunch of grateful hungry hikers all we could eat pancakes and bacon. One of the ladies brought in homemade coffee cake, and it was absolutely delicious. I took the 11 a.m. rather than the 9 a.m. shuttle back out to the trail. I thought I would wait until it warmed up a bit. But I should have taken the earlier ride. It got a bit too warm.From Winding Stair Gap I headed north, past the LNT noncompliant creekside campsite I used just a few days earlier. It was a beautiful day to hike, but it was hard getting back into the routine. I do not sleep well in town, so I was short on energy. In order to keep moving, I skipped hiking the extra .4 miles round trip to see Siler Bald summit. I heard it had a 360° view, and it was worth the effort.   But I knew I had to make miles and there would be other balds. I did enjoy some of the signs along the trail, like Swinging Lick Gap and Panther Gap.It was too early in the day to stop at Siler Bald Shelter, and too late in the day to make it to the next shelter. So a group of us planned to camp at a meadow supposedly with water nearby. The problem was that it was difficult to find the exact location. Some folks stopped just short of the meadow, but the area had trash strewn everywhere. So I moved on in search of the meadow and hopefully a less trashed campsite. The others were not there, so I camped alone. And I slept great!!I got a late start in the morning. I wanted to make reservations at the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center). On the trail, you have to take advantage of cell service when you have it. The guide said there were motel rooms, but only the hostel was available. Being a "hostel virgin," and with no other choices available, I booked a bunk.I am amazed at how much time it takes to pack up in the morning. It is even harder trying to pack up between rain showers. The tent I thoroughly cleaned and dried in Franklin was again heavy with extra water weight. It was almost cruel.I ducked into Wayan Bald shelter to eat my breakfast - cold oatmeal, which really was not all that bad. (I only use my stove for dinner to conserve fuel and to save time.) Then I was off to Licking Log gap and the rest of the trail. I almost had the trail all to myself. I noticed that a lot of hikers hunkered down in their tents to stay out of the rain. I do not mind the rain. It keeps the flies away. The trees, although bare, serve as a nice wind break, and my rain gear keeps me warm and dry enough. But perhaps, coming from Florida, I am just used to hiking in the rain.Cold Spring shelter was filling up as I passed through. Cold, tired, hungry hikers trying to get out of the rain. I decided to press onward to Tellico Gap. There was a couple already camping there and they had a dog. I thought it would be safe. At least safer than trying to hike out of the gap in the rain and near dark. The trail was also rocky and getting slick from the rain. So I tucked my tent into one of the walled parking areas and settled in for the night. At 2:45 a.m. the couple with the dog apparently decided since they were up, everyone should be up too. Thanks so much!!In the morning I packed up between rain showers and managed to get a relatively early start. I also let the couple know they woke me in the middle of the night. At least they apologized. I ate my cold oatmeal breakfast at Wesser Bald shelter, then started the long descent to the NOC. Portions of the trail were rocky and at times more than a little challenging for my short legs and tight hamstrings. Fortunately the rain had cleared and the views were absolutely spectacular!!I stopped at A. Rufus Morgan Shelter for water, and discovered that my good friend Gail had hiked up from NOC to meet me. She previously agreed to help me slack pack between NOC and Fontana. I was concerned about hiking out of the gorge with a full pack, and Gail wanted to get out again and do some hiking. So it was a win-win for both of us, but mostly for me. Gail is a VERY good friend.Our first order of business at NOC was to pick up a resupply box I bounced forward and to make sure I secured a lower bunk in the hostel. Both tasks accomplished, we then had dinner with one of my bunk mates. I had a delicious Greek pizza. Gail slept in her van, and I was no longer a "hostel virgin" (not to be confused with a hostile virgin). It was not so bad. But I really did not get much for $20. I was lucky that I got a clean towel for my shower, which was lacking in both hot water and water pressure. Apparently they do not always provide towels either.In the morning I hoped to get an early start. I was slack packing out of the gorge to Stecoah Gap, 13.4 miles, but the first half was all climb. Even without a full pack, it was going to be a long day. Unfortunately the restaurant did not open for breakfast until 8 a.m. Gail and I enjoyed a nice breakfast, then I started the long trudge out of the gorge.The day was clear, and the trail upward was gradual and full of switchbacks, at least for the first few miles. I felt very sorry for all the other hikers with full packs. After about 4 hours of climbing I was rewarded with a beautiful view of the gorge and NOC.Most of those laboring under full packs called it a day at Sassafras Gap shelter, a mere 7.7 miles. I could not blame them. But I had to keep going another 6.7 miles to Stecoah Gap. I had one last tough climb to Cheoah Bald, but the view was well worth the effort. If I had my full pack, I would have camped there. There was a big campfire pit and it seemed as if you could see forever. I can only imagine how beautiful the night sky would have been, especially with the full moon.I pressed on to Stecoah Gap. While I had been hiking, my friend Gail had played trail angle most of the day, shuttling hikers and providing drinking water. The last portion of the trail had no water sources. We drove 2 miles to the Stecoah Diner, a local eatery with good food and a very friendly staff. Gail got 5 gallons of water to take back to the Gap for all the hikers camped there. (Almost all of the water would be used by morning.) We slept in Gail's van.I was still feeling sore from the almost 14 miles from the day before when I started the climb out of Stecoah Gap. The initial climb was not too bad, but then I hit "Jacob's Ladder". It was a steep slog straight up the mountain. I could see cut and carefully stacked logs strategically placed alongside the trail. Apparently there are plans in place to add steps, I just arrived too early. Fortunately it was dry and not raining. I could only imagine what a slick, muddy, and difficult time it would be trying to hike up that mountain in the rain.I stopped at Brown Fork shelter for water, but changed my mind when I saw all the trash along the creek. Why do people have to be such pigs?!? Instead I collected water .2 down trail at Brown Fork Gap. A much better choice.Once again I had an absolutely beautiful day for hiking, especially for another day of slack packing. What a treat!! I stopped briefly at Cable Gap shelter, then pressed on to Fontana Dam. Even slack packing, I was definitely feeling the 27.4 miles I was covering in just 2 days.I could see the lake and dam below through the trees. The descent into Fontana Dam was very long and full of switchbacks. Shortly before Fontana 28 AT crossing there was a lush green area near a stream. It was absolutely beautiful with grass, moss, and various small flowers. Actually, the AT and the stream were one and the same at one point. It looked like a landscaped water feature that city folks pay thousands of dollars to create in their meticulously manicured back yards. This was all natural, and it was absolutely perfect.As planned, Gail was waiting for me with the "Blue Beast" in her van at Fontana Dam near the bait shop. She drove me to the Lodge at Fontana Village, where I had reservations for a few days of R&R before entering the Smokies. I have to admit, I am more than a little concerned about the Smokies. Not only is there very limited road access, but there is the high elevation and the ever changing weather, which can include freak snow storms in April.As always, the AT is calling, and I have miles to hike and mountains to climb. ... but first a little R&R.