Date: 2013-04-26
From: Campsite in a meadow

To: Kincora Hostel, Hampton, TN
Miles today: 12.6
Weather: few clouds

The moon was full last night and it was so bright I woke up in the middle of the night thinking that someone was shining a flashlight on my tent. It was also a cold night and I sleep in my long johns and my mummy bag zipped all the way up. I didn't see any deer in the meadow but I did wake up to a chorus of morning birds. Most striking where the two Barred Owls who seemed to be trying to out do each other with their loud and familiar call (try to imagine this in an owl's voice), "who cooks for you, who cooks for youuuuu". When I got out of my tent there was frost on the grass and when I hung my tent footprint up to dry it formed ice crystals on it. I started out hiking with a jacket, long pants, and mittens. The people who we passed yesterday evening began to pass us. I wish I could remember all their names but many of them were new to me and there were too many to remember. It seems that we are in a different "bubble" of people now, although we continue to see familiar faces from time to time. We started out climbing but soon began to descend. It warmed up quickly and I began to remove layers until I was down to my shorts and T-shirt. One of the cool things we saw was and old abandoned barn. I wish I knew the history of the barn. Melkie jumped into the pond near the barn and had a nice swim. Right after the barn we crossed a road and entered a flat area that followed a stream. It was nice to walk in a flat area but didn't last long as we soon began the steep descent in Laurel Fork Gorge. We came out to a large waterfall and followed Laurel Fork River. Parts of the path were flat and followed the river while other parts were on narrow rock ledges that hung over the river. It was certainly different than anything I had done previously. Somewhere along this section I "turtled". Turtling is when you fall backward on your pack and your arms and legs are flailing - like a turtle on its back. I was crossing a fallen tree when I lost my balance and fell backward onto my pack. My legs were still up on the log and my arms were flailing around. Trouble was laughing so hard that she could barely squeak out "are you ok" and Melkie helped out by licking my face. Trouble did manage a pic (I'll add a pic later). After crossing the river multiple times we began our steep climb out of the gorge. It was hot by now and we climbed for nearly 3 hours. Trouble kept thinking we were at the top and I kept telling her we weren't as we passed one false summit after another. FINALLY, we did reach the spring that indicated we were at the summit and it came none too soon as we were both out of water. There were 5 of us refilling our water bottles and we chatted as we each waited our turn. As we were about to leave Two Sticks walked up. It was good to see him - I think it's been about a week. Next we started the descent that would be over 4 miles to a road where we had decided to hitchhike into the small town of Hampton, TN for some "real food" and then we would return to the trail. Sometimes the downhills on the guidebook can be deceiving because you assume you can move quickly but then the trail turns out to be rocky or steep and it takes longer than expected. This trail was better than expected and we made great time. We only had to thumb for about 10 to 15 minutes before Footloose picked is up. He lives near by and did a major section of the trail in 2005. He and his wife, Fancy Free, are continuing to hike sections as they get time. I have him my contact information for when he's in Maine. We rode the nearly 3 miles into town in the back of his pickup truck. THANK YOU Footloose!The only places to eat were McDonalds and Subway - we decided on McDonalds. Inside I ran into Dreamer who I had met before Fontana Dam. We chatted briefly and them I headed for the bathroom which I had been waiting 3 days to use. While I'm sitting there I hear the bathroom door open and someone says "Hobo, are you I'm here?" It was Dreamer who had gone out and talked to Trouble. He was with the legendary Bob Peoples who runs a hiker hostel near by and was offering us a ride if we wanted to go. I told Dreamer I was finishing up the "paper work" and is be right there. Sometimes I marvel at my good fortune. It's very odd to come into a strange town, not sure where you're going to eat or sleep, and then have it all fall into place. Bob is legendary because he is an avid hiker, he gives talks about hiking, he organizes trail maintenance and re-routing, and he runs an amazing hostel that is only $5 per night. It's so nice to have a hot shower and clean laundry. Tomorrow Bob will take us back to the trailhead. It's supposed to rain for the next several days so it looks like our beautiful hiking weather is over for the time being.