Date: 2015-07-08
From: Big Meadows Campground

To: Gravel Springs Hut, Mile 956
Miles today: 36.0

Box Turtle speaking here...Third visit from El Loco (or Mr. Box Turtle, as he is now known on the Trail) about to end with the deposition of BT by side of the road in the rain, where I'll do the usual climb out of the hollow from town to the ridgeline where the AT mainly lies. Am learning to ignore weather reports. The rain is something that is often not too hard, cools you off, and always ends. Thunderstorms (and lightning: something I was at first afraid would actually strike ME) have been mercifully rare during hiking hours; sometimes you can reach a shelter and hang there for an hour or so until they pass before trekking on. The last several days have been very misty with occasional rain during hiking but also some sun, which El Loco experienced in Shenandoah National Park and which may be evident in the most recent photos, taken yesterday. A delightful night spent at Skyland, the historic ridgetop resort from the 1930s (rebuilt nicely) and a light hike (for BT; she carries water and lunch in a daypack while El Loco saunters unencumbered) 10 miles to road crossing near Luray, VA where a shuttle driver typical of his breed (has pronounced local accent; family has lived in immediate vicinity for generations; full of stories about crazy hikers similar to us; "just glad to get out of the house!") drove us back to Skyland to get our car, after which we drove back over the miles just covered on foot to a B&B in Luray, the town nearest our AT hike finishing point. El Loco saw a large bear at close range yesterday, but BT was busy peeing further back on trail and, typically, missed the sighting. EL described a "tingling feeling" --that would be fear!--but appeared calm to BT when she caught up, having passed same animal unaware. Several close deer encounters--spotted fawns fifteen feet away; a large, resting buck with many-pointed antlers in velvet observed when BT was hiking alone--in Shenandoah National Park. Did El Loco mention the two young Pileated Woodpeckers looking out of their nest hole that BT saw last month when she still carried her binoculars? That was the favorite wildlife sighting so far. The daily birds are Dark-Eyed Juncos, Eastern Towhees (sometimes with seemingly regional variations to their songs!), Wood Thrushes (a pleasant hiker's serenade if ever there was one), and Scarlet Tanagers, with Ovenbirds, Red-Eyed Vireos, Veerys often in abundance, and a type of warbler or two that seems ubiquitous along the trail but is of uncertain identity to BT. Chestnut-sided Warbler has been seen, but is this the frequent singer of the maddening song? Just not sure. BT's list of birds along the trail is much longer,but these are the most common recognized ones. Whipporwills were a fun addition to the evening scene awhile ago for a stretch, but haven't been heard in the last week.BT is having fun along the AT now--not just pushing forward determinedly to reach my goal, although I am doing that. Know a fair number of hikers of varied ages with whom I've camped repeatedly and run into regularly on the trail, although there is still no one hiking partner. I seem to hike faster than the others my age, but slower than many of the kids, and am not inclined to hang with a boisterous bunch. In fact, nearly all days are spent hiking alone, with rendezvous at shelters for rest/privy/meal stops or at camping sites at days end. rarely have I been alone at night--three times total?--though they were especially beautiful campsites. El Loco is telling me I have to finish this post...a shout out to those of youwho have so nicely commented on the journal site; it is very encouraging and fun to hear from you. Spider and Backfire, I hope you are back on the Trail! Randie and Jim, I enjoyed our shared campsite and we'll hope you try the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail next year and contact us then. Liz C., it would be great to have you pace me on the trail in VT. (can I keep up with a marathoner's pace though) Harpers Ferry arrival now looks to be Wednesday, July 15 due to a day off this weekend for daughter Emily's visit and stop at Redwing Roots Music Festival outside Harrisonburg, VA for bluegrass music! Joanna Thornton, please magically appear there! Then Emily hikes and camps with Mom for two days, during which time BT expects all the buff young men she's met along the trail so far to hike by, surveying the lovely new addition to the trail. BT can't tell the difference between these guys with their six-inch long beards, grubby clothes and animal scent, but perhaps Baby Box Turtle will...Brother Bob, if you want to skip work, come to Harpers Ferry, but I will not need the company if you can't make it, as the Appalachian Trail Conservancy is headquartered there and will help me celebrate 1000 miles. Anne, thehiking is apparently relativel mild just north of HF if you want to jump on for a day or two and can arrange a ride back to HF. Due to all the fun I've been having in VA--town/hostel stops, microbrewery visit, family visits however, I will have to keep up a good pace--say 15 mpd--to enable a continued through hike north rather than a flip-flop.Everyone please enjoy the things I am missing : music, gardening, gin and tonics, good food, movies, and time to write and talk!