Date: 2005-05-18
From: Silers Bald Shelter

To: Newfound Gap/Gatlinberg, Tenn
Miles today: 12.5
Weather: broken clouds

Day three in the Smokeys: Another fabulous day on the trail!I woke on time this morning, about 5:30, having gotten to bed at about 9 last night. I was exhausted! Clearly it was the right decision not to push on to Double Springs Shelter yesterday. (Take back those two points from the Milage Monster for not taking a longer lunch break yesterday). There was one other Thru Hiker at Silers Bald when I arrived, Jackalope, and he actually departed for Double Springs after he had dinner. But he's younger, stronger, and obviously had good knees...This morning, I was the first one packed up and on the trail. Before I left, Base and I made plans to meet up in Gatlinberg. He's MUCH faster than me, so I knew he'd get to Newfound Gap before me. With only a 12.5 mile hike to there, I wasn't too concerned about making it, but the question was how long it might take me. The other issue was how long it might take me to get a hitch into town, but - consistent with my new-found flexibility and self-confidence about dealing with transportation issues (I mean, if I can find my way through the woods for 2,000 miles, I can certainly find a way to get myself 15 miles into town, right?)As it turned out, the two miles of trail to Double Springs Shelter turned out to be incredibly easy. For planning purposes, I figure I'm doing well if I hike at an average speed of 1.5 miles an hour. I did those two miles in 58 minutes! By and large, today's trail was pretty good, and the weather was fabulous, so I made good time overall. There were, however, some pretty good climbs, including the one up to Clingman's Dome. This was partially offset by the beautiful scenery and some wonderful vistas, but I was still a bit tired as I approached what is the highest point on the Appalachian trail - some 6,500 feet in altitude.         Hiking, in fact, is not easy. Just to put things in perspective, think of a thousand foot gain in altitude as a building. Allowing ten feet per floor, that would be a 100 story building. And say the 1,000 feet occurs over a three mile section of trail. So, in my case, over the space of two hours, you would move forward three miles, while climbing the stairs of a 100 story building, carrying a 38 pound pack on your back. As I noted on day one, the elevation gain from Fontana Dam to the first shelter was a net of 3,600 feet in 10.3 miles - so that's a 360 floor building! And that's NET, not the gross elevation gain you actually hike when you take into account the ups and downs through the gaps and back up to the next higher peak. Anyway, back to Clingman's Dome - the hightlight of my day. As I approached the summit, there was a rocky outcroping right where the AT intersected another trail, and the vista from there was fantastic. I got out my camera and took several shots before resuming my hike. I had gone a half mile, mostly downhill, which sort of didn't make sense to me, but then it was really rocky so I was watching my footing mostly, and thus did not notice that I wasn't seeing any white blazes. But there were so many blowdowns in the area due to all the dead hemlocks and other pines, that white blazes were few and far between anyway. Fortunately, after only half a mile, I came to another intersection and realized my mistake. I sort of wasn't too happy about that discover. Ok, I might even have said another bad word. I turned around and hike BACK up to towards the summit, now facing a 13.5 mile day, with no credit for the mile detour. As I (once again) approached the summit, I could see the lookout tower looming ever closer. It has this circular walkway up to the observation deck (more hiking that doesn't count!), and so, after my detour, I wasn't sure that I wanted to take the time and make the effort to go all the way up there. Near the top, there was a sign that said "observation tower - 0.1 miles), and I actually stood there for a moment contemplating my next move. "Ah, to heck with it", I thought. "I've got enough pictues of vistas already. Seem one mountain range and you've seen 'em all..."   I really was looking forward to getting into Gatlinberg, a hot shower and a good meal. I hiked one. (Score three points for the milage monster!) Within another 200 yards, however, and just down from the tower, there was another, even shorter, side trail up, and this time I couldn't resist. I hiked on up and climbed up to the observation deck. (Take four points back from the milage monster!) The views were good, but boy could you see the effects of all the air pollution in the Smokeys. I should have been able to see for miles and miles, but the views tapered off much before that due to the haze. Bummer. You could also see the devastating effects of various deseases attacking the trees, with huge numbers of dead trees everywhere. Kind of depressing. After Clingman's dome, I hiked on, feeling pretty good about myself for having made the effort. There were a coupld of more 600 foot gains before I reached Newfound Gap, but fortunately I was able to "yoggi" a ride within five minutes of reaching there. (Yoggi is a Thru Hiker term which refers to getting something you'd like to have from a "civilian" without actually asking for it. It applied initially to hiking through a picnic area where folks are busy cooking hamburgers, etc. and you pass through, sit at a picnic table, take out some gorp and sit there munching, hoping they'll notice you, start asking questions, and end up offering you some of their wonderful picnic fare. But you can't actually say - "hey, I sure could use one of those hamburgers!" But it applies to rids as well. As I was getting a drink from the waterfountain, an older couple asked me if I was through hiking. I said yes, and we chatted for a few minutes before they started to get into their car. I asked if, by chance, they were going into Gailinberg. They said yes, but they were headed over to Clingman's Dome first. I said Ok, and told them they'd be in for a treat. Meanwhile, a young lady getting into the car next to theirs asked if I needed a ride into Gatlinberg. I said yes, and she said her dad would be back in a minute, and she was sure he wouldn't mind. YESSSS! Half an hour later, I was checking in to the Grand Prix Hotel. Base, of course, was already there. He'd passed my before we reached Clingmans Dome, but it took him an hour to hitch a ride so he only beat me by about 20 minutes.More about my adventures at the Grand Prix tomorrow. Long story short, I got a shower, laundry done, a bit of resupply, and had a super - if a bit expensive - meal (prime rib and a great salad bar, but after completing forty miles of the Smokeys in only 3 days, and with my knee doing really well, I was just in the mood to celebrate!