Date: 2003-07-28
From: Franconia Notch, NH

To: Gorham, NH
Miles today: 700.0
Weather: fog

About a week ago, a slack-pack of the Whites sounded like the best idea ever! Well, good plan...bad execution! It seems to have taken forever to make it through the White Mountains and at times, I am truly amazed that we've actually almost made it to Maine! I feel like I've spent the past 5 days on the World's biggest stair master. Overall, I liked the Whites, though this past week has been filled with more adventurous stories than I'll share on the internet! The first two days of the Whites were amazing. Mt. Mooselauke was beautiful as were North and South Kinsman. I loved this section as the weather was perfect and the scenery beautiful.So, the following day is when things got exciting. We started out a bit late and found the terrain to be pretty difficult, even with light packs. Our plan was to hike up Franconia Notch (straigh up!) and then finish out a 13 mile day at Galehead Hut. Funny thing about those huts...you need reservations! We got there around 8 o'clock at night in the middle of a rain/thunderstorm. I wish that I could think of a better word, but "miserable" is the best I can come up with to describe my mindset at this point in the hike. We didn't see any views from this ridge because of the weather (the AMC said that wind gusts were 40-60 mph with temps in the low 50's) and the fog/clouds. So, we arrived at the hut late, cold, wet and for me, totally miserable. But, the croo took pity on us(I actually even cried at this point) and let us crash on their floor in exchange for doing some light morning chores. Lesson learned: do not enter the Whites without a tent and sleeping bag! Sometimes, it amazes me that I've hiked 1800 miles and could still do something so dumb!We hiked out to Crawford Notch the following day and took zero-day at Orb's house. Mentally, I needed this. Back on the trail, this time with reservations to stay in Mizpah Hut for the night. Goldberry and I hiked together while Orb arranged parking situations for his car (yup, we're thru-hiking and we're using a car....). An uneventful hike and despite the overcast weather, I was happy to be back in the mountains. The uphills hurt. The three of us got up early the following morning and were siked for a big day (20 miles) across the Presidentials. As you may have guessed by now, it was once again cold, rainy, and overcast. We didn't see too much all morning and summitted Mt. Washington with 50 mph (felt like way more) wind gusts, pelting rain, and near invisibility. Fun! But, the afternoon cleared up and we had some amazing views. It made me realize how much I was missing and I've vowed to return to the Whites and see it all! Hiked from Pinkham Notch into Carter Notch Hut...a whopping 5.9 miles. My leg muscles could not have been more tired. I think that physically, I hit a wall. My only excuse is that I started back on the trail that morning with my full pack once again. This ridge took us over the Wildcats and although ridge implies relatively smooth terrain, I promise it was not! Anyway, I was more than happy to have a short day, especially when I saw the mountain we'd have had to climb if we choose not to stay in the hut that night! Climbed up that big 'ole mountain (Carter Dome) the next morning with Orb and Magnolia. We had a great day, especially in the afternoon when the clouds broke a bit. This part of the ridge took us over the Carter Mtns and Mt. Moriah before dropping us into a valley where the trail follows RattleSnake River. Magnolia and I took a very quick and cold swim in this river before we caught up with Godlberry at the shelter. Met GI Barbie, Truck, and Pile-Up today and also saw Barely Bald towards the end of the day. Orb, Goldberry, Magnolia and I made it into Gorham for pizza hut. It wouldn't be a journal entry if I didn't mention food somewhere along the line. My metabolism is in full swing...didn't think I could be hungrier than I was, but it would seem possible. I've found that if I don't eat regularly (=hourly), I get nauseous with hunger. So, here we are, back at Orb's house for another zero-day before heading into Maine. His family is unbelievable...thank you isn't enough! We seem to have temporarily stalled in terms of making progress northward! Less than 300 miles left....