Date: 2015-05-09
From: 486.3 campsite, VA

To: Fox Creek campsite, VA
Miles today: 23.9
Weather: broken clouds

It'll be hard to beat a day like today, but I'm open to the idea of being wrong. I woke first out of the bunch, packed my gear, used my cat hole, and hit the trail with Rock Boat while Moosehead and Hobble were still in the process of waking up. It'd be the only time I'd see the latter two for the day. Rock Boat and I headed north and immediately began climbing Whitetop Mountain that would take us up just shy of 1,700ft in 3 miles. In the process we would pass 2 Bad Dogs who had actually rolled into our camp last night after I had finished journaling. Figuring I wouldn't see them for the rest of the day, I wished them a good day of hiking, happy 500 miles, exchanged fist bumps, and continued on. Either the mountains are different in Virginia or my trail legs have finally arrived, or perhaps a mixture of both, but the climb up was actually pleasant in the cool morning.Upon reaching the summit, a large grassy bald, I was welcomed to my first 360-degree view of Virginia. It wouldn't be the last of the day. Rock Boat rolled in soon after and we climbed and sat on top of Buzzard Rock, took some pictures, and took advantage of 4G and updated our journals online. Rock Boat, of course, got a call through to Mrs. Rock Boat. During this time, I continued along the ridge, looking over my shoulder once and exchanging waves to Rock Boat, ~200 yards behind. This would be the last I'd see of him for the day as the remainder today's trek would be solo.I would drop back into the woods and continue up and through Elk Garden, enter Lewis Fork Wilderness, pass through Deep Gap, and reach Brier Ridge. The views were simply breathtaking and it was nice to finally be able to stand high on a mountain and not be freezing. On Brier Ridge I reached a sign pointing to the AT in one direction and the summit of Mt. Rogers, Virginia's highest point at 5,729ft, in the opposite direction. Having heard the summit offers little to no views, plus I'd be seeing the same views I'd been seeing as I climbed, I decided not to stand atop the highest spot in the state. I'd like to return to this area one day so I'll add that on the to-do list if so. I continued on the AT, passing Thomas Knob Shelter which offers a solid view of its own on a rock outcropping just behind the shelter.I continued through Rhododendron Gap and along Wilburn Ridge, the views continuing as I went. Many day hikers and weekend campers were out enjoying the beautiful day so it was nice exchanging hello's throughout the early morning. Starting at Wilburn Ridge, the section leading from Mt. Rogers to Grayson Highlands State Park, the terrain becomes alive as small and large boulders alike jut out from the ground in all directions. Some even seem to resemble old stone castles you'd expect to see scattered throughout England. Day hikers and a few thru-hikers could be seen sitting atop and amongst the boulders in almost every direction I looked, taking in the views, sunbathing, relaxing, etc. Not to be outdone, I climbed several as I passed through the area, taking a few pictures in the process, and simply gawking at the awesomeneas around me. A few wild cows were scattered around munching on grass, mostly oblivious to the hikers that regularly stopped and took pictures.Before dropping a few hundred feet into Grayson Highlands State Park, I first had to maneuver through Fatman Squeeze, a rock tunnel formed by overhead rocks. It was pretty neat, but unfortunately only ~20ft in length. As I began descending into Grayson Highlands State Park, little specks of different colors sprinkled among the surrounding boulder fields began to come into view. Small, wild ponies that call this place home were just off the trail, held off at a distance most likely because of the easy access the park allows to tourists and day hikers. From a nearby parking lot in Massie Gap, people can take a short stroll into the park, see the ponies, and be on their way. The more adventurous ones can travel the AT south through all the rock outcroppings the lead to Mt. Rogers. I entered the park through a gate along a fence, watched the ponies for a few minutes, and continued another quarter of a mile where I knew the 500-mile mark would be.As I reached the spot, marked by stones spelling '500,' a couple of hikers sat off the trail just shy of the mark. I threw off my gear just shy as well, hoping to wait a little while to see if my group would arrive and we could celebrate together. The 2 men had previously hiked from Springer Mountain to this point last year, but had ended here. They informed me that they had picked up where they left off last year and planned to reach Katahdin this year, thus making them unofficial thru-hikers. One of the men, Dream Crusher, offered me as much of his whiskey (distilled in Frankfort, KY) that I wanted to celebrate my reaching of 500 miles. I thanked the man and said that 2 shots was plenty. After waiting for ~20-30 minutes, I realized that our intended destination for the day was only another ~2 miles away. Seeing that it was only 1:30pm at the time, I decided I was going to utilize the great weather and the high I was riding for as long as my legs would carry me.Back at it I would continue through Massie Gap, past Wise Shelter, and down into a valley along Big Wilson Creek. I would exit the Grayson Highlands State Park and climb up Stone Mountain which rested directly across the valley from Grayson Heighlands. It was cool to get to look back on the rugged terrain from a distance. Stone Mountain was rugged in its own way in that it felt like passing over a mountain in Africa. Low bushes, a few small trees, and boulders covered the south-facing slope, draining me of energy as I hiked for over a mile with no place to take refuge from the sun.Eventually I rounded a corner and the Scales Livestock Corral came into view below. I hobbled down the side of the mountain until I entered a large fenced area that was once used as a large corral. I didn't read the sign explaining the history, mainly because I was lying beneath binge snacking, but I heard others comment that it was interesting. I considered staying there for the evening, but felt a bit put-off with all the surrounding tents with their vehicles standing watch nearby. I felt I needed to go somewhere where it took more effort to reach. I continued 2 miles to Orchard Shelter where I sat to study my trail guide for the terrain ahead. 2 more miles to Fox Creek, all downhill. I decided to continue because of several hikers I figured would be using the shelter that I had passed along the way. Just as I was leaving, a young couple and I exchanhed pleasantries. As I was leaving, the girl asked if I wanted a little trail magic. Not the one to say no to trail magic, she was soon jogging towards me with a Snickers. A regular-sized one. The perfect little trail magic. I thanked her as I let her know it was more than plenty. I continued the remaining 2 miles into Fox Creek on a hiker's high with the thought of the Snickers for dinner.I entered the campsite as the only occupamt, excited that I'd have the entire area to myself, although right next to road. I dropped my gear next to an old picnic bench and headed to voices in a nearby parking lot. Here I met Lead Dog and Slim Jim enjoying a beer. Lead Dog then asked the 9 best words in the English language. "We're out of beer, but do you like soda?" Next thing I know I'm sitting next to Lead Dog with a Coke in hand. Currently section hiking a set mileage each year, they both plan to complete the AT in the next few years. Congrats to you both when you do. They also provided me with tips for some of the miles, shelters, and towns ahead. They might have also treated me to another Coke, some chips, and taken my trash. Class acts, guys - you know just what hikers like.I continued back into my campsite with a Snickers and Coke I was only dreaming of earlier in the day. It made for a fine dinner. I picked out a spot in the corner of the campsite and plan to cowboy camp again.Tomorrow's high point will be Chestnut Flats at 4,240ft, but the rest will rise and dip between the high 2,000ft and mid 3,000ft range. Depending how my body responds to today will determine how far I get tomorrow. Just as I was concluding this journal, a couple of weekend warriors arrive from the nearby road to camp here. They introduced themselves and are actually former thru-hikers, 2014 edition. They're on their way to Raleigh, NC for a concert and are camping for the evening. They get a pass.Here's to 500 miles, spruce-covered ridge lines that remind you of Christmas, and one hell of a fine day for hiking.