Date: 2017-04-01
From: Standing Bear Farm

To: Roaring Fork Shelter
Miles today: 15.2
Weather: mist

Well, Standing Bear Farm - how to describe it. The trail comes down off the ridge to cross a creek and comes up onto a remote gravel road. Turn left and go several hundred yards to this remote hostel. I heard the hostel "trail boss" talking with some hikers and telling them not to go further up that road since everybody who lives there knows you don't belong and are suspicious of strangers - possibly something to do with moonshine. I counted 3 creeks (at least) which come down various draws in the mountains and hit the main creek here, headed to the Pigeon River below on the south side of I-40. These creeks come right through the hostel "yard". A cabin has been built across one creek, and you can hear the water tumbling over rocks below all night. Another creek cuts through the main yard and has a rickety bridge for the shuttle van to cross and Maria the owner has her home there. A third creek skirts the bunkhouse. This creek's banks have been lined with stacked stones from the property, which have since grown over completely with bright green moss. Next to this creek is a tree house which you can rent as your accommodation for the night. I stayed in the bunkhouse. Twenty (+) double-decker bunk beds suitable for sleeping bags. I did my laundry using a washboard, then dried using a modern electric dryer which seems to drone on 24 x 7 as hikers keep it busy. The "kitchen" is a rustic building with the door always open on one side. It has a gas grill stove (?), a microwave, pizza oven (?), and a sink, all built into 2 x 4 and plywood cabinets. The walls are lined with bookshelves and various hiker pictures, brochures, maps, etc. related to the area and the trail from years gone by. An irregular shaped table has been constructed with seats all around, and the table also has about a dozen electric outlets suitable for charging phones. It is a come and go social center for the hostel. Out front there are rocks, logs and picnic type tables for sitting and lounging while engaging in hiker chit-chat. Various dogs are ever present, ready to play fetch with whomever will, constantly looking for a piece of food to fall or be given as a handout. There is a resupply store on the honor system. You settle up by presenting your list of purchases over your stay, plus the bunkhouse fee. All of this is directly overseen by "Clark", who directs the activities of whatever high school age employees and other laborers there are. Clark is a classic mountain man sporting a long white beard and uncut hair beneath a hoodie that he wears 24 x 7. All of this is owned by Maria, I think. Maria and Curtis built and owned the place for decades. Curtis died a few years ago of pancreatic cancer (I think), and he was a unique character as well. I stayed here in 2003 when Curtis was here. Clark is an interesting character. He appears nearly destitute, but I was up early to have breakfast in the kitchen with him and mentioned the books on the shelves. He says Maria buys them at garage sales for about $1.00 a box and keeps the good ones. Clark has read many of what would be called "classics" and can discuss authors and describe their writing style, themes, etc. He sleeps in the bunkhouse every night in his designated bunk. He really embodies the feel of this place.Today's hike went very well. I left Standing Bear Farm in the rain to begin a 2500 foot climb to Snowbird Mountain summit. Snowbird is bald and grassy on top with 50's style UFO-like communication equipment located there - I believe at least some of it having to do with the Atlanta airport. It was rain and fog all the way up and the towers were eerie in the mist. 4 x 4 posts with white blazes guided me across the open summit post by post in the limited sight distance. I got to the summit much faster than expected - almost 4 1/2 miles straight uphill. The original plan was about 10 miles total to a tent site. I began to think about Max Patch - a famous grassy bald - most notable one in the southern appalachians. Up and down between Snowbird and Max Patch but the latter is about 500 feet taller so ultimately a big climb to the top. I was strong today and got to Max Patch with 8-Track and Cousin Eddie - two hikers also at Standing Bear Farm overnight. Max Patch was covered with weekend hikers (I often forget what day it is) - there was even a wedding at the summit - "the hills are alive, with the sound of music...". It was clear and absolutely beautiful up there, a little windy. You get a 360 degree view back to the Smoky's and all around. The bald is huge. You feel like a flea crossing an acre of land. The next shelter is about 2 miles north so I decided to head there - Roaring Fork shelter, where I am set for the night. 8-Track stayed near Max Patch, and Cousin Eddie came here later after spending some time on Max Patch. Other hikers are in the shelter or tenting. It is a beautiful setting. I was able to text pictures to Marlene from Max Patch and we could chat via text. Seems she got jealous of me having a stomach bug, so she got one of her own. Hope she's getting over that! It was a really good day today. Goodnight Sweetheart.