Date: 2014-09-12
From: Spaulding Mountain Lean-to

To: ME Route 27 (White Wolf Inn, Stratton)
Miles today: 13.5
Weather: light rain

The wind howled overnight -- gusts had to be well over 50 mph -- and the rain did not stop until the very early morning. I had great intentions for an early start but fell back to sleep after turning off the alarm. Packed up the wet gear and was on the trail at 8:30, wearing my shirt, wind shirt, rain jacket, rain pants, gloves and rain mittens. It was 42 and still windy, and I had three hoods up. The trail was in better shape than yesterday -- puddles mostly absorbed -- and I made good time getting up Spaulding Mountain, then Sugarloaf. Talked with a nice couple of day-hikers, but saw no one else. The trail skips the summit, but going down Sugarloaf was difficult and time-consuming. I finally got to the Carabasset River and stopped to take off my rain pants, rain jacket, and gloves and to eat some cheese. Someone had put a plank over the part that would require wading, so I could cross without changing shoes.Then began the long climb up South Crocker Mountain -- not tricky climbing, but steep, rocky and rooty for 2.2 miles and a nearly 3000 foot elevation gain. It took me two hours, and I was beginning to worry about getting down to Route 27 before dark. I did stop, however, for a chat with Robin, who was hiking the Crockers with her dog. She said she re-hikes the 4000 footers when she gets a new dog. She was very encouraging about my hike.It was a mile down and then up North Crocker, and I got there a bit after 4, with 5.2 miles to go, nearly all down hill. I took advantage of a rare cell signal to send a couple of texts and to call the White Wolf Inn in Stratton, which did have a room available. I said I hoped to be here between 7 and 8. I went as fast as I could, but the trail was not forgiving for much of the way, and it took 3.5 hours to get to the road. I did the last twenty minutes with my headlamp on. I had no sooner put it on than the trail took a steep, rocky plunge. I had heard little traffic and was not optimistic about getting a ride the five miles into town. I put my rain jacket on inside out so it would reflect, put the red light on on my headlamp, and crossed the road. It had no shoulder where someone could pull over, and the few cars and trucks that did go by just kept on going. I called Sandy at the White Wolf to see if she knew of a shuttle person. She did but said Sue was there in the restaurant waiting for her dinner. I said I'd keep walking and hoping for a ride but that I'd call in a half hour if I had no luck. I did have to call, and Sue came and found me. She did a thru-hike in 2004, and in reading the Companion info on Stratton, I learned that she owns the Stratton Motel. After I got here, I realized I didn't have my map Baggie I keep in my pants pocket. I hope it is in her truck, but I fear I missed the pocket when I put it away in the trailhead pull-off.I walked in the door, and Sandy asked if I wanted dinner or the room first. I opted for dinner so I wouldn't keep them too late, and I ordered prime rib and an 18 oz. Long Trail Double Bag. Sandy and a young French woman working here were very interested in my AT Passport. They had heard about it and are considering getting a stamp. Meanwhile, they gave me a sticker. Then another amazing bit of trail magic. The couple in the next booth got up to pay, and we talked about the trail. Janet is from PEI, and Mike from DC. While we were talking, they arranged to pay for my dinner. I thanked them and said they are true trail angels.I ate, came to my room, called Lee, who is still in Bridgeport, but has finished getting her mother's things moved and set up. I am whipped and will go to bed without a shower!