Date: 2007-06-17
From: Just off Hwy 50, Behind the Barndoor BBQ

To: Fathers Day - Harper's Ferry, WV (yep, 33 miles)
Miles today: 33.0

I have truly crossed the Rubicon, not to mention 1000 miles as well. All packed and walking by 0600, thank you Mother Nature. 501 decided not to take my Father's Day challenge and try for Harpers Ferry. He is eleven years older than me and probably knew what pain would follow...(right now I am in complete agony). A few years ago my wife Caitriona and a few lady friends completed the Caledonia Challenge in Scotland. They entered as a team to conquer 52 miles in 24 hours--and they did. My hat is still off to all of you!!Mean while back on the trail...501 did give me some inside info that the Blackburn Trail Center has a free spaghetti lunch for thru-hikers (noted for later). First up is 13.5 miles of the "Roller Coaster" which was not much fun, but well done given how narrow the trail is in this section (way too many rocks for me, but hey). Got my feed bag on and decided to really go for HF - still 20 miles to go and I'm feeling good. I also spoke to my family on the cell and they encouraged me on. A mile after crossing Hwy 7 at Snickers Gap...BEARS. Two about 15 minutes apart. Question: When do you first hear and recognize the sound of a jet engine flying overhead? Well I can tell you there are split seconds of indecision possible. Here we go. I hear that claws in tree sound that I heard a few weeks ago on my first sighting. Almost simultaneously a jet goes overhead and for the briefest of blood chilling seconds it sounds like a roar--and it passes--brain understands what happened and tries to counter the massive influx of adrenaline. Bear scampers off and disappears into the forest. Holy cow Batman. After readjusting my package and gear I set off north again. On my left the sound of something larger than me is quickly reported by sensor control. Big Black Bear just jumped off a downed tree and begins to mosey off in the opposite direction. All systems are go and I even reach for my camera, but too late, he's gone. I bet it was a brother and sister act and they spent the evening looking at pictures of freaked out hikers and laughing out loud (yeah they found a camera and figured out how to use it). I'm feeling just a tinge of tiredness when I come upon the sign indicating 17.5 miles to Harpers Ferry, actually I am stunned as I thought I was a lot closer. On the cool side of things the other side for South-bounders said 535 miles to Tennessee. I start to drag and the evening sun seems to focus solely on me. I push myself and know that flat easy trail will greet me soon, it never does. Rocks and lots more rocks. I came upon a young male hiker (mid 20's), we exchange the normal pleasantries. He inquires as to my destination and I reply I'm taking the Father's Day Challenge and headed to HF. He laughs and says, "no way dude, wanna smoke a bowl?" I said hell no and got my cowboy on. At dusk I begin to really tire and start having rock problems, I start kicking them real hard. Finally I come upon a sign indicating 1.9 miles to HF ATC Hqs. It is now 2015 and quite dark, and its all pretty much downhill, which gives me the most trouble. I hear traffic noise build but have no idea that I'm about to emerge under the huge Shenandoah Bridge which is part of US 340. It is now completely dark and I climb the stairs to the top of the bridge and start crossing and just get bombarded with cars, lights, noise etc. Thankfully a couple are coming towards me and answer my questions regarding accommodations and a reputable eating establishment. The accommodation recommendation was the Hilltop Hotel which they indicated was "just up the hill." By sheer damn good luck as I turn the corner to climb the hill an older woman was returning home from walking her dog. I said hello and she asked if I was hiking thru? I said yes and that I was headed to Hilltop. She exclaims "oh Lord! the way you look, you might not make it, I'll give you a ride." Most righteous ride to date. Almost done, can you stand it? On the ride up the lady tells me how good the hotel restaurant is. When I begin check in the time is 2130ish. The kitchen is closed for two weeks of renovations. I ask are there any other places open? "Not this time of night honey." I'm crushed as I can hardly walk, am massively hungry, and know the only food I have left is my emergency pack of freeze-dried Mountain Home--wait for it-- spaghetti. Hopefully I'll be able to find a serious Southern breakfast in the morning to make my zero worthwhile. BTW-the first time in 1000 miles I forgot to put Bag Balm on my feet and it is a complete disaster down there...