Date: 2016-06-29
From: MA 2, Hoosic River - Mile 1,592.2

To: VT 9 - Bennington - Mile 1,610.6
Miles today: 18.4
Weather: few clouds

This was a big day from several perspectives. Beth has never hiked this many miles before. Today's miles are more than I've hiked since returning to the trail. Early in the hike we left Massachusetts and entered Vermont so 11 states are done with 3 to go. It was apparent from the drive home last night that we were now as far away from home as we could be and be able to hike a full day. Must say that it's really been nice to return home these past days. I realized some time ago that I enjoy hiking more than camping. I love the trail's hikers and characters but have experienced a greater challenge getting to know everyone gathering around the shelters and think it is because of the increased numbers on the trail now that summer arrived. Given today's miles to hike, we were out reasonably early but the drive was long so we began hiking a few minutes before 9:00. North Adams stands out as one of the friendlier towns since Virginia. There were road walks through town yesterday and today and I got waves as cars passed by and a greeting from someone tending their garden this morning. North Adams also provides a seemingly safe extended parking location that is very close to the trail. The road walk this morning was short and it was moments into the hike that a brook's gurgling greeted us. Other trails or play areas were visible but the trail was nicely blazed so staying on course was easy. The brook accompanied us until we started to climb. Last night's rain was evident. Pine needles and leaves were washed down the path in clumps and we realized the path must've been somewhat of a waterway last night. The trail contained more rocks than the last few days but there was plenty of space between them so we had the choice of placing our feet between the rocks or on them. Beth says she wants to put a saying on the back of my shoes since she looks there so much. She noticed that I hike on the rain-softened dirt while she hikes on the stones. I really enjoy her observations as they are fresh and remind me how such observations were the norm in Georgia. There was a boulder field climb of a magnitude not seen since Pennsylvania. I was glad Beth experienced this as she had been questioning want PA was like. Beth said she enjoyed the climb and all I could do was smile as I wondered whether she'd like a steady diet of it for a couple days as exists in Pennsylvania. The breeze at the summit was cool and we appreciated how it dried us. The MA / VT border came next and we met Archer there. Archer is early on in his return to the trail. He is headed to Mt. Katahdin to finish his 2014 hike that ended in Salisbury, CT with an Achilles injury. Vermont's first 105 miles are shared by the Appalachian Trail and the Long Trail. The Long Trail goes from its southern MA border to Canada. We met a number of Long Trail hikers during today's hike. There was an extended flat section before the next substantial climb that began after lunch. The cool breeze was needed and its absence was noticed in the afternoon when humid conditions arrived. Must say that Beth maintained a positive tone throughout. I write this not to be condescending but instead to remind me of how she lifted me with her approach. We were glad when the second significant climb was over. I managed to miss a white blaze after crossing what was once a road. I became concerned after not seeing a blaze for 10 minutes. We turned around and saw 4 young guys that we had passed a while back. They said we were still on the AT but I went back to find the last white blaze. Sure enough, I missed the trail and a blaze. We yelled to the guys and they came running back. Not certain how far they would've gone before realizing they missed the turn. It is Day 1 in Vermont so it's possible this next comment doesn't apply to the rest of this state's trail but here goes. So far double blazes are not used to indicate the trail's turns. Vermont also doesn't use the practice of placing fallen branches to visually block a hiker from hiking in a wrong direction when multiple path options exist. This comes into play when combined with Vermont's practice of not clearing fallen branches and blowdowns from the trail. I quickly became comfortable stepping over blowdowns and limbs as was the case in Shenandoah. After my miscue Beth put a new rule into effect consisting of having to find a white blaze quickly after any road crossing or a blowdown. The breeze at the powerline on Mile 1,601 was awesome! It was so refreshing. I doubt that Beth and I will ever forget it. A few miles later we passed Consultation Peak that has one of the best stealth campsites I've seen on the entire trail. Flat, a fire ring, nicely nestled, with a water source nearby. Space for just 1 tent. We came upon another brook as we headed to the Congdon Shelter. The noise connected us to the morning that now seemed a long time ago. The Congdon Shelter was dark. I was glad I wasn't staying in the shelter or tenting there. We met Bucky there, a young thru-hiker who is moving along quickly but he was the only hiker to greet us. I can't understand what is going on recently. Can the lack of welcoming be due to concerns about limited tenting or shelter space? It isn't pleasant and is a real put-off. This is such a change from the early months. The trail after Congdon Shelter was lousy. Yesterday's rain was abundantly evident and Beth's introduction to why Vermont is commonly mentioned as "Vermud" was complete. We'd seen plenty of muddy trail in the morning but then long sections had dried out. Now, standing puddles became commonplace and it was unfortunate because we both were tired and still had 4 miles to go. Thank goodness we climbed out of Congdon Shelter's drudgery. We appreciated the better trail and refreshing breezes, even if they were intermittent. Then the day's final long descent was upon us. Chin Music wrote a few years ago that this was very steep and it was. It was steep, rocky, and gnarly. The miles we've been doing together and the length of today's hike have Beth's knees squawking a bit on the downhills. She doesn't complain but I've been there myself and with others. It isn't fun and can be painful. This was a tough descent for me too. It was almost 1,000 feet down. Slug, a thru-hiker we met a few days ago, came by and hopped the rocks with ease. Future hikers take note. This descent will be fun if you're a rock hopper and not be pleasant for someone like me. Still, it came at the end of the day and ended our long, ambitious day. Neither of us had anything left and we were both glad to find the car we had placed the night before. Was Beth happy with the day - Yes! Was I? You bet. Experiencing a day like this with Beth was memorable.