Date: 2015-06-25
From: Caratunk, ME

To: Stratton, ME
Miles today: 36.6

Leaving Caratunk, ME at 9am on June 21st I took the "Ferry" across the Kennebec River, actually a canoe I paddled from the front with the canoeman (see picture) in the back of the canoe steering. Canoe is the official AT way to cross the Kennebec. Normally 6 - 8 feet deep at the deepest point at this crossing place, the river levels can rise very rapidly. I was very happy to canoe across. Rain all day long on the 21st, I started at 9am and put together a 14-mile day to the West Carry Pond Lean-to. Three other South-bounders (SOBOs) stayed at the hostel with me in Caratunk, ME delayed their start another day to miss the rain. I didn't want to miss a good day of hiking, and know well that hiking the AT is hiking in the rain, mud, and just plan wet most of the time. A "carry" pond is an inland body of water used to help aid transportation, before roads existed. On the 21st, I hiked the portage trail that Benedict Arnold used between several Carry ponds in 1775 when his regiment attacked the English in Quebec. (See Pic).Also, 6/21 was 'hike naked' day, though I found out after the fact, and probably explains why I saw only one other hiker that day (clothed). I had thought it was due to the rain, but who knows? Made for some, I suppose, a very happy summer solstice.Idahoan potatoes turn out to be excellent hiking food by the way, as are Snickers bars.On the 22nd, I made 7.7 miles stopping at the Little Bigalow Mtn Lean-to where I bathed in The Tubs, natural tubs formed in a creek under a waterfall. I suppose "bathed" is a term used loosely as I didn't stay longer than to submerse and get out. Water in these parts is very chilly for bathing. But I definitely felt "spring fresh" and very clean.I walked on this day partly around a huge and very beautiful Flagstaff Lake (see pic).June 23rd started with rain and was the day I summited 3 peaks over 11 miles. Little Bigalow Mountain, Bigalow Mtn (Avery Peak and the West Peak). All in all, this was the toughest hiking day I can remember. The weather was generally just wet and rain and cold (normal enough). Above the tree line, however, was a different story. The trails in Maine are very steep. Switchback is not part the lexicon here; so, there are none. Straight up to the ridgeline and then up from there. Two peaks were above 4000 feet, which doesn't sound like much, but much higher than anything else around. The rain turned to sleet, the winds were 60 mph (my estimate). The wind kept blowing me over and only after I learned to brace myself with the downwind trekking pole could I stand long enough to walk. The last several miles were some very difficult trail, some 1/4 mile or more across huge, wet, and slippery boulders on the descending a very steep slope.I also sustained a high ankle sprain sometime this day, but don't remember when or where... odd. I'm taking a zero day in Stratton and as of around 2pm on the 25th am starting to notice some improvement. It's been a beautiful couple of days now, and at the lower elevation, I have begun to notice a hint of summer in the air. Stratton is a small though very wonderful trail town. I wish I'd discovered Maine earlier in life, but know I'll return after the hike for another visit. I befriended a cyclist riding into town on 2-week leave from England who rode 105 miles yesterday from New Hampshire, into Quebec, and east to Stratton. He (Charlie) started a week ago in Boston and is cycling through New England. He loves this area and wants to come again soon to ride through the southern Appalachians. What seemed to make an impression was the extensive views where there was no sign of civilization (highways and buildings) as far as could be seen in all directions. Made for some interesting conversation over a couple of beers noting the hiking and cycling similarities and differences.So some interesting animal encounters during this leg:1) The canoeman and I saw a bald eagle fly between trees overlooking the Kennebec River just as we landed on the far shore.2) I was challenged by a hissing grouse along the trail, as any troll would challenge my right to pass this way.3) Chipmunks are very willing to walk up to me when I am in the lean-to's. They are amazing and cute, hard not to feed them.4) Loons. Crossing the damn at Pierce Pond through the water that overflows the damn - that's actually the AT - I saw four loons in the lake close by. Two were flying/swimming around the other two, almost like playing ring around the rosies, flying half in the water and half in the air with each wing stroke. The make noises similar to a horse 'whinny'. I now know what I heard earlier were likely frogs, not loons.