Date: 2015-07-31
From: Nauman Campsite, NH

To: Madison Spring Hut, NH
Miles today: 11.8
Weather: few clouds

Up just after 6:00am after a night of tossing and turning due to a cold night. Wearing every item of clothing I had helped the case, but wasn't what I'd call comfortable. In what would be an amazing day of hiking ahead, the only negative part of the day would come as soon as the day began. Being too lazy and too cold to exit my tent at night to pee, I filled a Gatorade bottle several times over instead. As I finishes my final round this morning, I tossed the bottle to the side with the cap left loose and realized a few minutes later a puddle of urine had filled most of my tent. I quickly managed to remove all of my gear before they went floating away and, with no time to dry my tent, poured the remnants out and packed my tent away.Hitting the trail at 7:00am with Moosehead, Burnsides and a family of 3 Australians, Muddy Duck, Fire Bear, and their mother who's name escapes me at the moment, we headed in the direction of Mt. Washington, ~6 miles away. Before we reached the second highest peak on the trail, we'd first have to scale Mt. Clinton, Mt. Eisenhower, Mt. Franklin, and Mt. Monroe. The initial climb up Mt. Clinton was a little difficult, but only due to beginning immediately and legs not yet feeling loose. As we crested the summit we had our first up-close view of Mt. Washington, or at least the several thousand feet below the summit not covered in a thick cloud. Blue skies stretched in every direction except for the half mile or so radius around its summit. Our Aussie companions commented that it reminded them of hiking in New Zealand; hopefully that one comment is enough to describe the beauty of this range for I know I'll fail to do it justice. With clear skies, the mountain shrouded in clouds proved an imperfect perfection atop the state of New Hampshire. Onward we marched, hiding our giddiness as best we could for the hike ahead.The terrain exited the spruce forests and began a ~13 mile stretch of exposed ridge, offering jaw-dropping views in every direction. From Moosilauke and the Franconia Ridge to the south, now beginning to blend with the other surrounding ranges, to the unknown mountains we'll surely be crossing soon, the day would be one for the memories. As we climbed higher towards Mt. Eisenhower, the temperature dropped lower, and the wind increased substantially. We stopped the put on our warm gear, something we haven't had to do in a long time, and pushed upward. Onward over Mt. Franklin and Mt. Monroe, the trail weaving its way like a serpent just below the summits, we walked along edges of sheer ~1,500-2,000ft drops. Hiking at a good pace kept us warm even with a wind-chill in the mid-40's. One moment we were drenched in a thick fog, unable to see more than ~100ft ahead, and at other times the fog disappeared as quickly as it appeared and the sun and blue skies returned. Just over ~4 miles in, the silhouette of the Lakes of the Clouds Hut, resting a couple miles below the summit of Mt. Washington came into view and we quickly headed in to enjoy a break from the constant wind.As we waited someone asked if they had any leftovers from the morning's breakfast to which they said yes, for a price. The price, however, was in the form of a work-for-eat. They welcomed the 6 of us into the kitchen where tubs of leftover eggs and pancakes from breakfast, as well as beef, bread, and enchiladas from last night's dinner, beckoned us in. We were told by the hut crew to eat as much as we wanted, and they were serious seeing as though all food waste must be packed down the mountains every few days. I stacked a hodgepodge of each in a delicate balancing act - enchiladas atop beef atop eggs atop bread atop a pancake. Perfection on a plate. Combined with a strong cup of Joe, I was ready to take on Mt. Washington which we did, after passing a couple of small lakes lining the trail. The climb didn't seem too difficult, though, because the strong wind and wispy fog kept things fun. We heard the summit long before we'd see it, a strong wind whipping across a hard surface, from a quarter mile away. We quickly climbed this last stretch before finally reaching a flat, gravel summit marking the point we were looking for. Under thick clouds and strong winds, we crossed the area in search of anything that came into view.The first thing would be large a large tower containing weather equipment, constantly monitoring was is often said to be the "worst weather in the world." Eventually a few day-hikers appeared, followed a line of visitors braving the cold to take a picture at the summit sign, and finally the large walls of the sizeable visitors center sitting just off the summit. We entered and were initially caught off guard at the number of visitors - some day or thru-hikers like ourselves, but most simply driving or taking one of the train engines that drop people off feet from the summit. I immediately purchased 2 Coke's and would join Burnsides, Muddy Duckling, Fire Bear, and their mother for an abbreviated lunch since we had recently ate. As we relaxed, we people-watched and commented on the fact that more people need to educate themselves about their environment or the one in which they're entering. We saw what seemed like hundreds of people wearing shorts, tees, and flip-flops in a wind-chill of 35 degrees due to the 40-50mph sustained winds at the summit. It's one thing if it's sunny and warm a few thousand feet below, but it doesn't take much elevation gain for weather to turn nasty, and quickly. Several information signs in the visitors center museum pay respect to the many lives lost in the White's, even providing a map of where bodies have been found. This place is no joke and although we were fortunate enough to pass through on a good day, we could still feel a sense of potential change in the air for most of the day.After an hour of doing nothing, we needed to return to the blistering wind and continue to reach our intended goal. Downward off of Mt. Washington we went, crossing over the train tracks and watching 2 engines slowly roll by, the faces of tourists not admiring us in the conditions outside, taking visitors down into the sun-drenched valley below. The dense fog would eventually give way to a mixture of sun and cloud for the remainder of the afternoon as we crossed along the ridge skirting the rocky summits of Mt. Clay, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Adams on our way to Madison Spring Hut ~500ft below the summit of Mt. Madison. We reached the hut at 4:30pm after nearly ~12 miles and decided to inquire about a work-for-stay. What initially began as a possibility soon turned into a confirmed yes, and the crew members even allowed 4 of us to stay - Moosehead, Burnsides, and me included.We passed the test of the afternoon by drying out our gear (my pee-tent for me,) being lazy, talking to guests, etc. All the huts keep registers dating back decades and I started flipping through the 1970 edition, looking for entries from Burnside's father who worked in this hut in 1970 and 1973. I was able to find a few comments left by his father and it was a very moving moment for Burnsides who unfortunately lost his father in his mid-50's. Being able to stay here, see his handwriting in the register, and be able to do a work-for-stay was something he always hoped to do. I was happy to be with him for this experience and I believe he was happy to have Moosehead and I here as well. After the guests ate we were able to dive into all the leftovers of chicken parmesan, pasta, form, bread, and black bean soup that we could eat. We were then put to work for ~30-45 minutes cleaning all the dishes from the dinner. It was easy work and we were more than happy to do it in order so show a little appreciation. Tomorrow, after another round of breakfast leftovers, we will clean out the bunkrooms and then be released to head on our way.Other than the feeling I can't yet comprehend, though am sure will come with reaching Katahdin, today will go down as one of the finest of the journey. It had a little of everything - views, high peaks, changing weather, Coke's, an incredible sunset, and a work-for-stay to cap it off. It's currently nearing 10:30pm and I'm perched on a bench in the dining hall of the hut. Moosehead and Burnsides are on the floor around the room. A cloudless, star-filled sky can be seen in a window nearby. It may not be a perfect night of sleep, but as the wind gusts outside, I know I'll be dry and warm. Tomorrow, the next day, or next week may not be as kind to us, but I'll always be able to say that July 31, 2015 was a day where the sun shone a little brighter on my friends and I. Today was a day of genuine happiness on a simple yet grand scale.Here's to 4 months completed, participating in a rich part of the trail's history, and the Presidential Range cementing its place as the trail's best part.