Date: 2006-08-25
From: Lake of the Clouds Hut

To: Osgood Tent Site
Miles today: 10.0
Weather: fog

The huts, oh the huts. Everyone is nuts about the huts. They are large wooden/stone buildings that contain a large room with tables, a kitchen, and another room with bunkbeds stacked 4 high. They are operated by a "croo" of college-aged kids. Staying at the huts is $80+ dollars for guests. For this they get a bunk with a blanket, breakfast and dinner. Thru-hikers can usually stay for free by doing work-for-stay -- though only a certain number can do this each day. If you are one of the lucky ones to get work-for-stay, it means that you have to do a chore. You also have to wait to eat until the guests have eaten and the dishes have been done. They you get the leftovers. The food is OK but is often not really enough to fill you. But by the time you have hiked and done your chores you are too tired to cook anything yourself. You get just enough to stave off starvation. Then you have to wait until lights out at 9:30 to be able to set up your sleeping gear. All the guests go to bed and then the thru-hikers invade the main room like this stealthy undercover army and set up in the dark. They sleep on the picnic tables and scattered about on the floor. An amazing assortment of sleeping paraphrenalia is arranged in minutes. The hikers who are normally asleep by 8 are beyond exhaustion at this point. All night we hear the guests who shuffle through the common room on their way to the bathroom. Then at 6 AM we are awakened by the croo cooking breakfast. Rapidly we pack up and by the time most guests awaken the evidence of our stay is gone. Hikers must then wait for breakfast leftovers and do a few light chores before leaving. Many hikers rave about the hut experieces, but for us it was frustrating. We like to be in control of when we eat, sleep and hike. While we are grateful for the hut option, we are glad to be getting out of the Whites and the hut system soon. We will be back to campsites and free shelters. This morning we summitted Mount Washington. This event was noteworthy because it is a milestone on our journey. Otherwise it was rather anti-climactic. It was so foggy that we couldn't even see the buildings, much less a view. The temperature with the windchill was 29 degrees. We took the obligatory summit photo, ate a muffin in the cafeteria and moved on.The next 5.5 miles I really worked hard. It was largely uphill and I quickly scaled rocks without complaint. I went and went and watched Mount Washington drop away behind me. The trail was relentlessly rocky but I felt as though I was making good time. We actually passed three people. Since people are usually passing us this was noteworthy. We got to Madison Hut and I expected it to be about noon... it was 2:15. Bummer.The last three miles to the campsite were excruciating. I know I've used that word a lot talking about the Whites, but it is just so accurate. My knees and ankles are exhausted. I've never ever seen such a rocky trail. Each step actually seemed dangerous. The rocks were unsteady. It was torturous. Somehow we made it to the campsite in one piece. We settled in just as it got dark. It's amazing how much earlier the sun is setting. It's unbelievable that it is almost September. With the cooling weather I'm already dreading river forges in Maine.