Date: 2006-08-23
From: Harper's Ferry, WVA

To: Wayansboro, VA
Miles today: 161.0
Weather: broken clouds

After writing up the journal in Harpers Ferry we got a ride with a past thru-hiker named Bonzo and his dog Rio. They had a sweet van that was purchased from an AT hostel owner down in Tennessee named Mrs. Janet. The roof of this van is completely covered in the signatures of all past hikers that he has given a ride to. There are a couple hundred at least. Later this week actually he is going to start the second half of a thru-hike that he started early this spring. So I wish him good luck as he hikes north. We got in and out of town by mid-afternoon and were on our way towards Virginia and beyond. The weather was clear and beautiful as we climbed up a decent hill and began moving across the ridge. We passed a bunch of old civil war memorials as we moved south into the evening. Near David Lesser Shelter we saw the memorial telling us that we now have under 1000 miles to Springer Mountain, so we now have that going for us. Jon stopped there for supper, but I pushed on to the Blackburn Trail Center where we were to spend the night.    Arriving at the Center around 6:30 the caretakers were finishing dinner up so they threw 2 more hamburgers on the grill for me. Also staying at the hostel were a couple called Red and RunningBear. After alot of talking in circles we came to the realization that RunningBear had already talked with us just outside of Andover, Maine. He is doing a flip-flop hike which explains why he is now back down south. His wife, Red, is out with him for a period of 12 days just for a visit. The caretakers are named Hopeful and Redwing, and they thru-hiked last year. Now they are expecting a baby and have settled down to start their careers. The food was great and it was a very comfortable evening on their screened in porch.    Waking up bright and early the next morning we set off to hike the roller coaster. On the way to the coaster we met a section hiker named pipeline who warned us of a possible forest fire farther down the trail. Indeed, when we arrived at crescent rock there was a ton of fireworks garbage and a small plume of smoke rolling up from the adjacent woodlot. Pipeline was going to call the proper authorities so I merely took a few pictures and moved on. Shortly thereafter we enter Virginia and its 535 miles of trial. The roller coaster is a series of 10+ small hills in rapid succession. We had heard bad things, but it wasn't as much of a hastle as they had made it seem. Pushing through that piece we decided to go another 9 miles to the Dick's Dome shelter in Sky Meadows State Park. This was our second longest day at 27+ miles and we arrived about 1/2 hour after darkness had fallen. We stopped in a skytop meadow for supper and I noticed a long anticipated change in forest type. We were now surrounded by towering tulip poplars and lush undergrowth. Very pleasant indeed. On our 2nd full day out of Harper's Ferry we again managed our 2nd longest hiking day by beating out the previous days mileage by 1 and a half miles(28.5 total). We were doing these big days to facilitate a more relaxed pace through Shenandoah National Park. Early in the afternoon we stopped at the Jim & Molly Denton Shelter which had a front deck and very comfortable bench. It is likely the nicest shelter we have seen thus far, although that is certainly a matter of preference and we have seen many nice ones.    In the afternoon we hiked up our first 2000 foot climb in many hundreds of miles and entered Shenandoah(SNP) upon topping out the ridge. In that first evening I saw two bears which was a good sign for excellent wildlife viewing to come. Again I was forced to hike till after dark, but it was an enjoyable day nonetheless, and I fell asleep quickly.    In the morning I awoke to find that a mouse had gnawed on two of my prized candybars which disappointed me greatly. I then set off for the six miles to Elkwallow Gap Wayside(concession stand) ahead of The General. Lately, we have been hiking 60-70 percent of the time on our own and meeting up with each other a few times throughout the day. I guess we have just exhausted alot of our possible conversation and it seems more appropriate to hike at our own pace which leaves us free to think about our lives or sing out loud, whichever seems more appropriate.    At the Wayside we each picked up a pint of icecream and some extra snacks to supplement our rations. During the last couple of days my appetite has really picked up and it seems nearly impossible to satiate myself. I am trying my hardest however. We also talked with a few boyscout weekenders who had plenty of questions.    The afternoon passed incredibly pleasantly. There has been a splendid breeze over the past few days that makes the temperature incredibly enjoyable. The SNP trail maintainers also do a marvelous job. They grade their hills, and it is perfect terrain for someone wearing a backpack. Near dinner time we cruised up to Marys Rock and the Pinnacle which are a pair of mountains over 3,500 feet tall. Between the two summits both of us ran into a rattlesnake. Black phase timber rattler, neat to see. After dinner we cruised up Stony Man Mountain and camped off the trail near its summit path.    In the park we have been hanging bearbags due to alot of bear activity and we had no problems. The next few days passed in a similar manner with occasional stops at a wayside for a calorie laden treat or a wildlife sighting. In the park the deer are all pathetically tame and you could kill all of them with only an apple and a hammer. I must admit that it is nice to get closeup pictures of a cute fawn for the photorecord. We each saw probably 5-7 bears in total as we traversed through the park, and 100+ deer as well. Sadly, neither of us got to catch a glimpse of the mountainlions that many have told us dwell in these mountain ridges. The weather has been beautiful since Pennsylvania, and believe me we are really trying to appreciate it. The temperatures have now cooled off and hiking is going great. A few other Southbound hikers are said to be around us, but we still have yet to meet any of them. The tide of Northbounders is over now, and we are only occasionally greeted by weekend or section hikers. Again we are alone in the woods.    As we arrive in Wayansboro we have less than 850 miles till we complete this trail, and I look forward to the changing of the seasons. In less than 2 weeks we will be visiting our good pal Chad Atwood in Blacksburg, Virginia and then we push on to the deeper south. Till then.