Date: 2004-09-20
From: Pierce Pond Stream (Harrison's Camps)

To: Pleasant Pond Lean-to
Miles today: 9.3
Weather: clear sky

9.3 mi. in 6 hrs.We slept well in our cabin. Had to open the door to let the stove's heat out, which let in the rush of the stream below. Not bad. Then came a huge breakfast in the lodge, and photos all around. One's headed for you, Ned. Off by 8:30 AM on a easy downhill path alongside Otter Brook, reaching the Kennebec River by 10. The waters were rushing by, though the level was low. Then I looked downriver to see Wyman Lake had been drawn way down, for dam maintenance. That explained the fast current. But then we looked down at our feet and noted the water level was rising by the minute, meaning the power company was releasing water upriver for the whitewater rafters. So two good reasons NOT to ford the River on foot. A hiker drowned several years in the effort. That's why the ATC pays a ferryman, Steve Longley, to transport hikers across by canoe.Our ride was splashy but short. We made the short walk into Caratunk and found the Caratunk House hostel closed for good. He'd left his stock of sodas and snacks out front for hikers. It was his last season anyway, but circumstances forced him to close early according to the Postmaster.Steve Longley and Alaska Pete at the Kennebec crossing Pete picked up a food drop at the P.O. and hiked on to the first shelter out of town. I decided to make the most of the afternoon until Gloria drove up, by getting a lift up to that shelter, then slackpacking downhill back to Caratunk. Steve Longley's assistant, a former thruhiker named "Mr.Clean," knows Monica Bowman from my home town of Skowhegan from their thruhike back in the 90's, and used to work for her parents' new next door neighbor in forestry. He collects wild mushrooms for the restaurant trade, including the Japanese market, and does quite well at it. I met Pete and Late Start on their way up to the shelter. The woods are showing more color all the time, and show great variation of tree types almost around every!bend in the trail along this particular stretch. Right now I'm sitting on the front steps of Steve Longley's cabin/bunkhouse/general store complex just north of Caratunk with snacks in hand. Saltlick and Pegasus just walked in for the night. Gloria will be here soon, and we'll take off for an Inn upriver at The Forks. Tomorrow we climb Pleasant Pond Mountain together. We should get fantastic views. For the longest time this hike has seemed endless. Suddenly, the final days are upon me. People ahead of me who I've hiked with are leaving farewell wishes to Now or Never in trail registers. I'd like to respond, but it only works front to back.Ackowledgements time: I'm spending a lot of time thinking of all the help and support I've received along the way. I'll start with the trail angels dishing out all kinds of magic: passing drivers giving rides into town, snacks and drinks left along the trail occasionally with full-scale barbecues, people like the Smiths in Pearisburg, Raven's sister in NJ and Bilbo in Manchester all opening their homes to swarms of hikers, and churches welcoming dirty strangers into their facilities and congregations. Kindness to strangers. That's taught in every religion but you can't count on it. That's what gives it the impact I feel when I encounter it. Think I'll sleep well here at the Inn. After all, how many shelters have Jacuzzis? G'nite! Now or Never