Date: 2003-04-09
From: Spivey's Gap

To: The Nolichucky in Erwin
Miles today: 11.2

I managed to snag a top bunk at Miss Janet's Hostel yesterday. With the rough weather driving the hikers down from the mountains into town, the hostel was packed, and then some. Miss Janet is constitutionally unable to turn a wet, shivering hiker away from her door.So I slithered down the homemade bunk ladder, no mean feet of survival with my stiff, sore feet. Hobbling into the kitchen, I started a huge pot of coffee. The smell of brewing coffee soon drew other hikers.When Miss Janet returned from her first shuttle, a huge breakfast commenced: walnut waffles, butter and syrup, eggs, bacon, strawberries and bananas, OJ, milk even ice cream. I'd never had ice cream on my pancakes before, but ...why not?Because of the cooking and many shuttles, it was after noon when Scamp, Greylock and I got to the trailhead. This was not a big deal today as we had an easy 11 miles to do from Spivey Gap down to the Nolichucky River. Then we would officially "be" in Erwin.On the way to Spivey Gap, Miss Janet suddenly spun the wheel. "I'm going to take you guys on a little blue-blaze," she said. The AT is marked with white blazes; side trails, such as to shelters, springs and viewpoints, are marked in blue blazes.We twisted down a little side road and saw a sweet mountain house looking down at the prettiest little waterfall. We oooh-ed and aaah-ed, such a lovely site, etc. "If you like that, you'll LOVE this," she chuckled, and wheeled us around the house.We were looking UP at a huge waterfall maybe 40 feet or more, hugely pregnant with the recent rains, roaring down before us. The volume drowned out all but the loudest conversation and the spray dampened our hair."That's Spivey Creek, that you walked down yesterday," she said. "Go on, I'll take your picture by it."I scampered down to the rocks at the base. Scamp and Greylock were back by the van still, digging for their camera. Maybe my waistband was a little loose, maybe a lot loose, Maybe I turned my backside to Janet just as my drawers shifted, just as she snapped the picture. Maybe not. All I know is things happened fast.As I was hastening to regain my buttons and dignity, I heard Janet hooting like a monkey: "FULL MOON OVER SPIVEY WATERFALL!!!" What do you reckon that woman was going on about? Scamp and Greylock never did find their camera. Out on the Trail, it was a repeat of yesterday. The rain continued to pelt us, saturating all and turning the footing to greasy, chestnut-colored pudding. Slipping was a distinct possibility today, and care was needed. We had plenty of practice, it has been a wet hike so far.It was also colder, that sapping, hypothermia-inducing chill. There wouldn't be much sitting around today. Even with the wet, slick mud and foggy grey, I prefer this type of hiking to the blazing summer heat. That's how much heat a hiker puts out. In winter, you stay warm by hiking; in summer, you suffer. The climb out of Spivey wasn't bad at all, and soon we were snacking at No Business Knob shelter. (Anna and Bumpkin and I had walked here by headlamp last fall.) This time we met BubbaLuga and Tubbs and the black Lab dog Iwo.The pretty sidehill soon turned into the long switchbacked approach down the bluffs of the Noli. The river looked a little livelier today, doing it's job of draining the surrounding mountains.The walking was easy and pleasant. Our spirits were good and so was the company. Our day's Trail ended at the river.Down on the river road, we stuck out our thumbs but no one wanted to pick up three soggy hikers. Finally, a fellow and his son squished us in his SUV. He was interested in our trip, and friendly. Hmmm, was I sensing a case of AT fever here?I figured he would know something I needed to know - my back had been out some since the first snow I slipped around in, spasming, and I wondered if it was contributing somehow to my tendonitis. I had been wanting some help and didn't know how to arrange it in a strange town."Do you know if there is a chiropractor in town?"He chuckled and shook his head: "Yes, but it's my day off." Trail magic! Hiker, meet Dr. Walters. We made an appointment for 9 am tomorrow, and he dropped us at the A&W Rootbeer.After a fish sandwich and two A&W rootbeer floats - ice cream for breakfast, ice cream for dinner - Miss Janet swung by and took us back to the hostel.I fret about the weight I am putting on. I am getting a belly with all this unrestrained eating. My friend Sunny, who thru-hiked last year, says "Honey, you've hardly walked 300 miles. By the end of Virginia it will all be gone. The weight will peel off in the summer. You need it now."Miss Janet tells me she has a surprise visitor, one I know; someone who hiked the AT last year and who I met on the Long Trail last year.There he is, Valley Girl! I met this big-smiling young man atop Bromely Mountain lookout tower. He pointed out Stratton Mt. and enjoyed my reaction of surprise at seeing how far we had walked. He also gave my Long Trail partner Clyde his trail name: MiddleAgedFat Man. Back then, VG had gorgeous, long, curly blonde locks and a beard. Now he is clean-cut and short-haired, but still has that Colgate smile. Hotdog rolled into town, joining us at the hostel, as Wench's parents were in town. He also managed to acquire a bunk - a top one. Ha! SHARE the misery! FEEL the pain! I also get a phone call from my friend Swallowtail, telling me to call my friend Anna (Mudbutt), that she needs to talk to me. Anna is 100 miles into her thru-hike, and she has been much on my mind lately walking this section.I call, Anna tells me straight: "I broke my foot. I didn't want you to hear it thru the grapevine." She must take a month off to heal the bone, and sadly let her Trail companions go forward without her. She is bummed. This is a tough moment for an AT hiker. There is a momentum to a hike, and it is easy to release the huge effort in front of you. From walking solo, I know her road will be hard.Yet my sense of Anna, from hiking with her, is one of deep determination. I don't feel this will derail her hike, but rather strengthen her resolve. We all watched a horrid ghost movie, but my mind was not focused, and went to bed late again.