Date: 2006-04-23
From: OVERMOUNTAIN SHELTER

To: MOUNTAIN HARBOUR INN
Miles today: 8.7

OVER THE HUMPS AND THROUGH THE WOODSWhat a blast it was crossing Little Hump and Big Hump. These are two of the biggest balds we've seen yet. The views from these places are indescribable. We could see Grandfather Mountain from here. But I gotta tell ya, it wasn't the scenery that blew us away this time: it was the WIND! We're talking at least 50 miles an hour with gusts up to 70. We could barely stand up in it at times. We leaned in hard as we pushed our way slowly over these 5,500 ft. peaks. When the wind would suddenly stop gusting, we would fall into its absence. When I would lift one foot to take a step, it would knock me a foot or two off the trail. We couldn't speak to one another through the blasting wind either; it would take our breath away. Boy, that was fun!Later we found out that hikers before and after us came face to face with long horn cattle on the balds. They all had pictures and told stories of having to shoo them off of the trail. We were disappointed to have missed them but my guess is the cows were smart enough to stay out of the ferocious wind -- unlike us humans.Down into the woods we went after the Humps. With all the recent rain everything was sparkling green. It was nice to see the Beech trees dressed in a cloak of new spring leaves for a change, as well. Best of all, there were flowers and more flowers everywhere. I took several pictures of every new species I saw. It was in this section that we met a day hiker with a cute little dog. We spoke for a few minutes and asked him how far it was to U.S.19E. When he found out we were headed to Elk Park, he offered us a ride. How lucky for us that we didn't have to hitch!A short time later we were deposited at the Elk Park Mini Mart where there was no pay phone. Gathering our nerve, we went inside to ask the clerk if we could use the phone. If Jeff Pratt wanted to meet us here, we would wait to resupply at a bigger store. If he did not want to come to Elk Park, we would hitch a ride back past the trail head to a near-by hostel.We talked to Jeff, he said he was two or three hours' drive away, so let's just wait until we get to Kincora. Admittedly, we were hoping to be rescued from our past few days of feeling like we're still stuck in Erwin, but in the thru-hiking lifestyle, you take it as it comes. We stuffed our packs with more Ramen noodles and Little Debbie fruit pies and walked back out to 19E. With our thumbs to the wind it took almost no time at all to score a ride. We got out at the trail head and walked the .3 miles down the highway to the Mountain Harbour B&B/Hostel.We were pleasantly surprised as we walked down the long driveway to the Inn. The B&B is a large 1904 house, painted red, with a wrap around porch. It is situated on a picturesque hill with a swift running creek passing through the property. The hostel is located in the loft over the barn. It is a very comfortably furnished apartment complete with full bath and kitchenette. There are only 5 beds in the hostel including one king size, so it's very cozy and quiet with just a few hikers to share with. Tonight, we are enjoying the company of Just Joan, Able Jack, Chainsaw and Skunk. It's so nice to be clean and comfortable again.