morvasaaty/AppalachianTrail-LD-Hikers-Blogs-and-Weather-20-years huggingface dataset:
Date: 2004-04-27
From: Hot Springs, NC

To: Allen Gap
Miles today: 14.6
Weather: scattered clouds

14.6 miles in 8 hoursWe had an elegant breakfast in Victorian splendor. Our gear dried out nicely from yesterday night's rain. Off to a late start because of more business to do at the outfitters. On the trail climbing out of town by 10, with a few wrong turns. AT markings (vertical white stripes on trees, bridge abutments, or the roadway) aren't always easy to find.We thoroughly enjoyed our stay. Raven hopes to come down for a Zen retreat there some time in the future.The miles flew by, with some challenging hills but mostly steady up- and downgrades. Raven and I hike and talk together at times, and go separately at other times. We give each other plenty of space.I've been listening a lot to the public broadcasting station WUOT out of Knoxville, since before entering the Smokies. Lots of classical music programming, with little of the yackety-yack call-ins, panel quizzes, or luncheon address shows so beloved by Maine PBS. In starting toward Mt. Rich we heard strange, loud, low-pitched noises from far off, ever-changing. Now like a train whistle, then like the mooing of a wave-powered buoy, then like yelping, then bleating, then howling, and a deep buzzing suddenly choked off. We rounded a shoulder of the mountain and saw a fire tower high up and far away. The sounds were now quite loud and came from that direction. It was as if a collection of monsters were holding forth up there, like "A Night on Bald Mountain" or "In the Hall of the Mountain King." A bit scary, even in broad daylight. It was a gusty, windy day, which might have figured into it somehow.Just to check it out we took the 0.1 mile side trail to the top. There beside the fire tower stood a pole with a wind-powered generator. Each gust would send it into a frenzy of different distress noises. They were loud enough to carry for miles. Other hikers at the end of the day commented on the weird sound show too. Great views from the top incidentally. We stopped at Spring Mountain Shelter to have supper with Chill Out, K-2, and Gadget. All three are older men, who are a major constituent of the hiker population. More about that later. We decided to do a few more miles, so hiked on to Allen Gap where we found a fine wooded tent site facing the sunset. A beautiful cool evening, and I'm revelling in the spaciousness of my new Henry Shires Tarp Tent. It's like a ballroom compared to my GoLite Lair, which I shipped home today. Thanks Henry and Gloria!It's dark now, past hiker's midnight. An owl's hooting nearby. Full belly, tired legs and feet, warm sleeping bag waiting...life is good! Now-or-Never
Date: 2004-04-29
From: Flint Mtn. Shelter

To: Low Gap Shelter
Miles today: 15.5
Weather: broken clouds

15.5 miles in 10 hoursAwoke at 6 to a bird conversation. Two wood thrushes were talking back and forth, one giving a three-note call, the other inverting or reversing it. Like members of a jazz combo passing around a musical idea. This went on for twenty minutes. What a wakeup!Off we went at 8, immediately climbing higher, back into the land of bare trees. Speak-Up joined Raven and me.First peak was Frozen Bald. Plenty of wildflowers, with whole hillsides covered with white trilliums, and others blanketed with May-apples, an odd-looking jungle-like plant.The big event was a planned burger-and shake feast at a diner two miles down the road where the trail crossed at Sam's Gap. The owners would shuttle us back up if we got down there, so the trail gossip had it. We showed up at a deserted road crossing, and Speak-Up offered to walk to the place to get a shuttle for us.As Raven and I basked in the sun by the roadside, a fellow on a magnificent Harley Classic pulled over, full of questions about us and the trail. After a bit he took off after our friend. 30 minutes later, up he roars again, with Speak-Up in the pasenger seat, his pack strapped on behind, clinging to a huge take-out burger order, with a huge grin. They had hit the place just minutes before it closed.Trail Magic takes many forms, and this was unique. It all came from answering questions from a curious passer-by. Many thanks, Billy Rickett.We're camping tonight in a wooded hollow called Low Gap. It's clear, with a cool breeze, and it will be early bedtime all around. Approaching Big Bald in distanceI should spend more time on body maintenance, such as stretching and foot massage. Lately I've developed a mild shin splint low on my right leg near the ankle. Probably from taking too big steps all day under pack. I'm watching how I walk, and it got no worse today. Think it'll clear up. A trio of teens with a dog pulled in, on a trial hike. They're learning all they can before they try something like this.Well, the bear bag's hung, the tarp's up, the sack awaits! Tomorrow, Big Bald, looming nearby. G'nite! Now-or-Never
Date: 2004-04-30
From: Low Gap Shelter

To: No Business Knob Shelter
Miles today: 14.3
Weather: moderate rain

14.3 miles in 9 hoursWe woke to cloudy damp weather with a stiff breeze. Didn't sleep well last night because the tent sat on a slight slant. With its slippery-smooth bottom, I kept sliding backwards all night. A common problem with the new ultra-light materials.Off by 7:30 to scale Big Bald, which we saw high and bald in the distance yesterday. We soon climbed into the clouds and were greeted by fog, chill, high winds, and rain mixed with traces of sleet. When we reached the grassy top we were making our way through fog from marker to marker.Funny thing, as I trudged up the trail in these miserable conditions, I felt happy to be there, warm and dry in my various layers, on a fine adventure. I knew a shelter awaited us a few miles ahead with the chance to chow down and relax.Once down from Big Bald we came back into calmer, warmer conditions. The trail wound through old pastures and abandoned orchards. There must have been alot of settlements here before the parks took over. Wonder how many were displaced.On the other hand, as Tevye said, the parks took over the trail just in time. The hills immediately leading up to Big Bald were covered with houses perched everywhere on ridges and steep slopes. Quite a jarring sight after hiking past miles of mountains and valleys with no sign of development. Misty woods on the way up Big BaldWe reached this shelter to find a goodly group assembling. We chose to stay in the shelter because of the rainy forecast.Those present: Raven and I, General (ex-British emilitary man, now an airport security advisor recently working in Sierra Leone and before that, Baghdad), Ketone, A-Dog, Indigo (on staff of E.F., an international student exchange group, working out of Boston), Scarecrow, I Need a Hug, and Mapmaker (young man from Missouri doing city mapping but looking for a change). Raven used his many years of Boy Scout work to lay a fine campfire. Everyone's talking about their favorite trail foods, and foods back home. Yum.Nice evening shaping up. Tomorrow we hike into Erwin, TN and Miss Janet's Hostel for reprovisioning, cleaning up, and REST. Maybe the bad weather will blow over too.Now-or-Never
Date: 2004-05-01
From: No Business Knob Shelter

To: Erwin, TN
Miles today: 6.3
Weather: overcast clouds

6.3 miles in 2.5 hoursHappy May Day! It started at 6 AM with another wood thrush duet. It never rained, so we endured a cramped noisy (snoring) shelter for nothing. Up and out by 7 to catch the Erwin Post Office before it closed.We came upon views of Erwin and the Nolichucky River from high up and far away. It was like an aircraft approach, climbing down from the hills into town.Erwin's a sprawling place so we were glad to hitch into the center of town. Not much character, with its chief feature a busy rail line running through, and mile-long trains of coal cars tying up traffic every two hours or so.The local hostel, Miss Janet's, is a colorful lively place, but was filled, so Raven and I split a room at a Super 8 Motel.We walked back to hang out at the hostel, where we saw many faces old and new. Picture the messiest college dorm or apartment suite you can imagine, and that's what we saw. Lots of atmosphere.Had a big meal at a burrito joint favored by hikers and kayakers, then back to the Super 8 to unpack our food purchases. We may take a zero day tomorrow to let Raven's heel blister and my shin splint get better.I can hardly continue. I'm surely sleep deprived. Maybe naps are the order of the day tomorrow.Now-or-NeverNext stretch of the trail
Date: 2004-05-02
From: Erwin, TN

To: Erwin, TN
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: light rain

Zero day in Erwin, TNA restful night at the Super 8, despite the presence of a rowdy Australian-rules football squad which was lodged elsewhere in the building. Then an easy morning spent journaling, repacking food for the next leg of our journey, popping ibuprofen and watching the weather channel with feet up and ice pack on shin.Toward noon I went into town to watch the trains go by (boyhood memories), eat some more, and hang out at Miss Janet's Hostel. Then back to the Super 8 for more rest, stretching, and preparation. Here's to the Ladies: Mothers' Day will catch us in the deep woods, but with the occasion very much on our minds. For every married guy out here there is a spouse back home trying to deal with it. It's a frequent topic of trail and shelter conversation.Here we are on a personal adventure; there they remain, often feeling miserable, lonely and abandoned. It wasn't their idea to do this, it was ours. When friends back home exclaim how happy and proud they must be of their backpacking hubbies, they feel forced into the role of some pompom girl cheering on her football hero. To do anything less would appear resentful and mean-spirited. Feel trapped, anyone?Some wives compensate: Before the General left Britain for his hike, he carefully scraped up enough funds to sustain the home fires. When he called home his wife anounced she had bought a new car of her choice soon after he'd left! Raven's wife announced she had reshuffled the bedroom furnishings including the bed. When he heard the bed now sat where his huge dresser once sat, he asked where the dresser went. "Out on the curb" was the reply! Just joking, but it gave a hint at the situation.So, to the spouses left behind who had nothing to do with this venture, our burden is more than the weight of our packs, food, water and clothing. It's also thoughts of you tinged with a dose of guilt. Here's to the journey, but here's to the reunion! Happy Mothers' Day!As to the flip side, married women hiking the trail, I've met too few to get a valid sample. The dynamics may be different. One simply told her husband she was doing the trail and that was that, take it or leave it.I sent home my first digital chip of photos, probably at least sixty. We'll see how they look on trailjournals shortly.The weather should change for the better overnight which should make for a good start Monday. G'Nite! Now-or-Never
Date: 2004-05-03
From: Erwin, TN

To: Cherry Gap Shelter
Miles today: 16.3
Weather: overcast clouds

16.3 miles in 9 hoursWe were glad to leave unexciting Erwin after a day and a half of R&R. We spent the morning climbing out of town through varying woods and long streams rushing down to the Nolichucky. It was raw and overcast, around 40.Our big assignment today was Unaka Mountain, over 5000 feet high. We climbed into the ceiling into a harsh breeze, blowing fog and mist, and gusts of sleet. We stayed comfortable in our various layers.At the very top we entered a dense stand of old red spruce with a mossy forest floor. Everything was dark and misty, and quite peaceful. Pita Man at work, making pita over open fireThe miles rolled by till we came to the shelter. Five hikers had already arrived and several more came after us. We got a campfire going to fight the chill breeze.Last arrival was Pita Man, a young Israeli named for his nightly ritual of making pita bread from scratch and baking it on the bottom of a pan over a wood fire. He obliged us tonight at the fire. We're all circled about the fire staying warm, swapping trail chat, and dodging smoke and sparks.Time to pile on more layers and crawl into the sack. Fair weather tomorrow. We feel good after today's miles and will crank out more tomorrow.Tonight the 20-somethings outnumber us old folks. Everybody who wants to blends well, but the younger set definitely seeks each other out. It's much the same as in college dorm arrangements, where associations are friendly and convenient. Pairing off occurs but not inevitably. I'm sure there are other trailjournal accounts with salty stories aplenty. Everyone is primarily concerned with hiking their own hike and staying well.Time for bed. G'nite!
Date: 2004-05-04
From: Cherry Gap Shelter

To: Roan High Knob Shelter
Miles today: 15.2
Weather: clear sky

15.2 miles in 10 hours.We must have had an owl-fight early this morning. First one barred owl called, then another answered farther off. This repeated itself at closer intervals until one suddenly rose in pitch until it squawked like a parrot. Then silence. Territorial challenge? Owl love?This proved to be our toughest day yet. Constant ups and downs culminating in a huge climb up Roan Mountain. Raven and I hiked separately but met often and had lunch together. Many hikers passed us by, including ones we hadn't seen in days to weeks.The only things that kept me going was lots of food, water, and rests. Despite the sun, we had a constant, raw, chilly breeze which made for frequent clothing adjustments. I may still have been tired from the rugged day before.Roan Mountain is one of the tallest peaks on the trail at 6150 feet. It's all mowed lawns on top, with remains of a fine tourist hotel from the late 1800's. The state line ran through its ballroom.Roan Mtn. summit after an exhausting climb.The shelter here is the highest on the AT. It's a regular log cabin with a door against the cold and an upper level to increase capacity to 15. 10 are here tonight.I found a pair of white velvet and pink satin bunny-ears(!) along the trail and brought it along to the shelter. My little contribution to campsite improvement.It's dark. I'm writing this in my sleeping bag on the cabin floor. I just moved over to make room for the last arrival, a gal almost too tired to speak or move. She was Slow Barbara, definitely hiking her own hike. Raven filled up her water bottles and she's making a late dinner before turning in. Everyone's whipped.Another full day tomorrow. Hope this raw weather lifts.
Date: 2004-05-05
From: Roan High Knob Shelter

To: Apple House Shelter
Miles today: 14.7

14.7 miles in 9 hours The best day yet!We all overslept after yesterday's exhausting climb. It was windy and raw and we were glad to set off.Today was a total gift. The weather cleared and warmed up. We had lunch at Undermountain Shelter, a barn overlooking a long deep valley with settlements and cleared fields far below.The turnoff to the place was a trail used in a critical campaign during the Revolutionary war, in 1780. American militia traveled over it in late September through early snow on their way to fight the Loyalists in the Battles of Kings Mountain and the Cowpens. A sign with a map and brief history stood at the trail junction.Speak Up, Andante, and Raven at Overmountain ShelterThe best part of the day was the climb up Hump Mountain and Litle Hump Mountain, all part of the Roan Mountain Highlands. These were enormous rounded hills, covered in grass, with views to the horizon in all directions. I was hiking solo at the time, amd found a rock near the top to bask in the sun out of the stiff wind.As I downed sardines on pita bread and swigged Gatorade, I listened to Borodin's 2nd String Quartet on the Davidson College station, and inhaled the wonderful vistas. It was an unforgettable "Katahdin moment" several months early. It reminded me of home too: Borodin's quartet was a 20th anniversary present to his wife.Raven and Speak Up came along and we all sat there basking in the glory of the moment.As we sat there, up came a trail runner, a guy dressed in running short and Power-Bar singlet. He was an ultramarathoner vacationing nearby, just out for a run over the Humps to Roan Mountain where he had a ride arranged. What some people do for fun (but then, look at us!)Relaxing atop Big Hump Mtn.Other hikers saw longhorn cattle grazing up there, but we missed them. It must be quite similar to the Scots Highlands.The rest of the trip was a long, gradual trail down through sunny woods, something we did on cruise control.We're tenting outside the shelter: Raven, myself, the General, One Day at a Time, Speak Up, and Sampson (a young woman with very long hair, planning a teaching career), and Father Ounce (a young man hiking with Sampson who chooses not to speak on Tuesdays, in order to learn to listen better).A quiet clear evening with a good day waiting ahead. And so to bed. G'nite
Date: 2004-05-06
From: Apple House Shelter

To: Moreland Gap Shelter
Miles today: 18.0
Weather: scattered clouds

18.0 miles in 10 hours.Up with the birds at 6 AM and out by 7 on a 18 mile day. It became hot and sunny early on. Raven, I, Speak Up, and One Day at a Time left around the same time and met up throughout the day. The trail took us through woods and fields with no spectacular views.No trail magic at road crossings. Could it be I'm developing a sense of "trail magic entitlement?" That is, the world owes me soda and burgers? Hiked up a big hill to the strains of La Marseillese as arranged and orchestrated by Berlioz. Everything including the kitchen sink, and a whole lot of verses. Wish I had it for every hill.Afternoons, the same station plays nothing but bluegrass. Not a bad combination for a public broadcasting station in rural E. Tenessee.Our map profiles prepared us for an easy level hike in the afternoon. Not so: the trail had been revised to go over more intreresting terrain. Part of that consisted of steep descents to stream crossings, then steep climbs followed by steep descents for the next stream, and over and over. Raven called it "The Tennessee Water Torture."The new segment is 14 miles vs. 10 for the old segment. So the trail grew by four miles!Eleven of us at the shelter, new faces among the old. The General entertains us with tales of his military days in far off corners of the world.We met a legendary trail character on the final descent to the shelter. An elderly gent was literally creeping down the hillside, barely moving. Sure enough, it was Turtle Don, by his description the slowest hiker on the Trail, even slower than Slow Barbara who pulled in so late and exhausted at Roan Mountain two nights back.The younger set revised the fire pit and got a good fire going. I'll toast up a bit then creep into the sack. No major aches or pains, thanks to "Vitamin I" and chondroitin/glucosamine. The shin splint is almost gone!Tomorrow it's a short 6 miles to a Kincora Hostel for cleanup, rest, and resupply. The good weather should hold till Damascus a few days later.
Date: 2004-05-07
From: Moreland Gap Shelter

To: Laurel Fork Campgrounds
Miles today: 6.1

6.1 miles in 2.5 hoursA comfortable warm night after a good evening. We were up and out by 7 and made an easy six-mile hike into Dennis Cove. We had clear cool sunny weather with a light breeze. That plus anticipation of cleaning up and chowing down made for ideal hiking conditions.We checked in at the Laurel Fork Campground, a complex of lodges and cabins in a woodsy setting along a trout stream.The owner, a friendly local guy named John, gave us a rundown on the area. There's a NASCAR track a few miles away which draws over 180,000 fans several times a year. Some of the overflow comes here. The towns are scruffy and rural like many in Maine, but with shopping centers here and there.Raven, Speak-Up and I split a cabin then headed for the showers.I'm always startled by the amount of vegetable matter that washes off me in the shower: pine needles, leaf fragments, mud. It's as if I were literally going back to nature.We're busy running up a tab for laundry and snacks at the main building. Then comes phone and the internet, then a run into to town for resupply and a Chinese buffet. Right now I'm sitting on a little wooden deck over the stream eating a pint of Moosetracks ice cream while my laundry rattles away next door.Porch scene at Laurel Fork: Skippy, Poppins, Critter(?), CaterpillarLots of old and new faces passing through, as it happens most evenings. We're at the peak of the thru-hiker wave and so meet new people as they charge ahead or take zero days.These trail stops are always different, always fun, always restorative. They're as important as the hike.Our eyes are on Damascus. That's become a beacon to us, 50 miles ahead, three solid hiking days. It's the most trail-friendly town of all, with good outfitters for repairs and replacements. Damascus also throws a one-week carnival called Trail Days starting a week from now. We'll hike on through, then shuttle back for the biggest two or three days from wherever we happen to be. I may choose not to return, but instead save my zero-days for family events further up the trail.What a beautiful clear evening. It means hot hiking conditions tomorrow, so I'll relish it for now.G'nite!
Date: 2004-05-08
From: Laurel Fork Campgrounds

To: Vandeventer Shelter
Miles today: 17.5
Weather: few clouds

17.5 miles in 10 hoursWe had an enjoyable evening and a restful night at Laurel Fork Campground. Over 20 hikers stayed there.We started late, after 9:30, amd soon found ourselves hiking deep in Laurel Fork Gorge along a fast-flowing river, much like Gulf Hagas in Maine except for the blooming rhododendrons and azaleas. We were tempted to stop and swim, but we knew we had many miles to go. It was tough leaving the cool shade for the hot sunbaked climb ahead.We had a long hot grind up Pond Flats Mountain. Raven, myself, Speak Up and Chill Out hiked more or less together all day. The old guys!Then came another delight: the descent to Watauga Lake and its public beach and swimming area. We dropped our bags on a grassy lawn and waded into the water in full clothing except for shoes and socks. Aaahhh!Then some youngsters offered us trail magic: watermelon, Pepsi, ham and cheese sandwiches. They worked at a popular restaurant/cybercafe in Damascus.Thanks Roadie, Philth and Mountain Man!Trail angels from Damascus at Watauga LakeIt was already 3 PM and we were only halfway there. The trail led us around the lake and across the big dam at the other en! d as thunder clouds arose and rumbles began in the distance.Watauga DamThen a long climb up from the dam under blacker and blacker skies. It was getting past our usual dinnertime and our stomachs were reminding us, so we stopped at a spring two miles short, to eat then move on.With our meals only half done a lively thunderstorm broke over our heads. I gulped down my instant-mashed potato soup with chicken, threw my pack together with rain cover, and marched off in rain and BB-sized hail. No lighting struck closer than a quarter mile away. The rain stopped after ten minutes and the rest of the two miles flew by.We reached the shelter to enjoy a vivid rainbow display over the lake and town far below us. The clouds in the distance still flashed with lightning, and mist rose from everwhere. We heard car-alarm sounds miles away. Maybe they were triggered by lightning flashes.Still a little hungry from our interrupted dinner, but feeling good just the same.Evening rainbow at Vandeventer ShelterCritters seen: Raven spotted a good-sized black bear scooting across the trail 100 feet ahead of him. Not Yet and Dacks, two hikers at our shelter, saw a black snake that put on a convincing rattlesnake act, coiling up and rattling its tail in the leaves.Will tomorrow be still better? We never can tell. Time for bed. Right now I'm listening to some good jazz on public broadcasting. G'Nite!