Date: 2013-07-03
From: Hikers Welcome Hostel - Glenncliff, NH

To: White Mountain Hostel
Miles today: 83.6

The Whites -I am rolling my experiences in the Whites into one big journal entry, so no cause for alarm - I didn't cover the 83.6 miles in one day. I am not superman and couldn't leap those mountains in a single bound.Day 1 - I went about 16 miles or so to the Eliza Brook Shelter, the last free shelter for the next 80 miles. A big problem in the Whites is that the AMC runs all the lodging and campsites, charging $8 to camp and $85 to stay at one of their hotel-like huts. Thru hikers can try to get work for stay, basically slave labor for a place to sleep and at the huts, leftovers.I climbed Mount Moosilauke and climbed down next to a steep waterfall on the backside. The trail ran right along it, covered with spray at times and was very slick but great views.I made it into the campsite and talked with an Australian couple and two French girls staying in the shelter. The Australians asked the girls about the Whites and the trail ahead - all they said was that it was bad, beautiful but very bad.Day 2 - I hiked over 20 miles to Garfield Ridge Shelter, I had heard that Lady Gray a hiker I had last seen in TN was ahead and I wanted to try to catch up and see her if I could.I crossed three mountains; Kinsman, Mount Lafayette and Garfield Mountain. Lafayette was above the tree line and as I was about to cross into the alpine zone I met three section hikers huddled in the woods worried about thunder and building clouds. They asked what I was going to do, I said I was going for it - standing 10' in the trees wouldn't keep you from getting hit by lightning and with that I was gone.I made it to Garfield Ridge - paying my $8 to the caretaker, grumbling the whole time to pay for camping that had been free for the last 1800 miles. The good news was Lady Gray was there and we got to catch up - she also fed me some venison stew a friend had brought her. I think she thought I was too skinny.Day 3 - I pushed about 17 miles and camped at a site near the Saco River. The walking wasn't bad, if fact I walked on a trail that was perfectly graded with a gravel base. It was for tourists to get to one of the AMC huts and the trail followed it for 3 miles or so - the fastest miles I walked in the Whites.I stopped at one of the huts and filled my water bottle, they also had some lemonade and cookies for sale. I saw a tray of leftover pancakes from the morning and asked how much? The kid working said I must be a thru hiker to want cold pancakes, I could have as many as I want for free - I ate 8 of them spread with Nutella from my pack.I made it to a campsite by the Saco River - I pitched my tent in the woods back from view. What I was doing wasn't illegal, more of a gray area, but if I could be in and out without a fuss that would be good.Day 4 - The big day, I pushed over 18 miles and crossed Mount Washington - second highest peak on AT at 6288'. Even though I was crossing peak after peak above the treeline it was surprisingly easy walking after the first hard climb out of the valley.Thick fog and a light drizzle kept me from enjoying the views, I had hoped to see Maine from Washington - no luck. Temps were in the 50s and walking was good until I left the summit of Washington and headed for the next peak. A gentle trail guided the day trippers down the mountain, the AT was a rock-hop up and down craggy peaks - slick with rain. I was starting to wonder if the person who laid out the trail in this area was purposely trying to kill me.I camped at a Forest Service free campsite off the mountain, the drizzle that had been falling for three days was picking up in intensity.Day 5 - I woke up to the sound of rushing water and a small stream running under my tent. The rain had fallen all night and was now flooding the campground, I didn't seem to be in any danger - just everything I owned was soaked. I stopped at Madison Spring Hut on my way down the mountain to Pinkham Notch - I must have looked like a drowned rat, the kid behind the counter gave me half a loaf of sour-dough bread from last-night's dinner for free.I spent the day climbing up and down slick rock faces, falling twice and cutting my hands, skinning my knees and shins and smashing two finger - whose nails promptly turned black. What the guidebook described as streams were raging torrents and I spent time finding ways around or fording them - once I was swept by the current off my feet, hanging on to a tree to keep from bobbing downstream.I made it to a campsite a few miles from Route 2; I was bruised, beaten, tired, soaked and everything I owned smelled like a wet dog. Tomorrow I would finish the Whites and I hadn't seen the Sun in days.Day 6 - I walked a little over 7 miles and out to Route 2, it was a surprisingly gentle grade down to the road, the Sun shone - it was as if I was being rewarded for my travails.Now I am enjoying a zero day for the Fourth of July, and tomorrow on to Maine. The Whites challenged me in ways the trail hasn't so far and I am ready for the 14th and final state on my journey.