Date: 2009-08-23
From: Hurricane Mountain Shelter

To: Thomas Knob Shelter, Grayson Highlands
Miles today: 18.4
Weather: light rain

Big rains last night. Made me even more grateful for the shelter. Got cold last night. Now plotting a cold-weather redesign of my hammock using an emergency poncho and a space blanket.Some misc. stats:I've walked roughly 500 miles. I've lost 10 pounds. Started Sz 10, now wearing Sz 4/6. My food intake yesterday for 20 mile day:12 fig bars4 trick or treat size Baby Ruths2 cups Zatarin's beans and rice1 pkg. Ramen noodles4 green food pillsbagel with 2 ounces peanut butter1 ounce beef jerkyhalf a Little Debbie brownieI write now while swinging in my hammock in the attic of Thomas Knob Shelter. I am tired. Today was my day for getting lost and going the wrong way. Not once, not twice, but 3 times I found myself in the wrong place and going the wrong way. So much for being a seasoned hiker! But all of this was quite offset by some wonderful trail magic.The first magic came when I noticed a horse camp at the road crossing. I hiked to the campground hosts site. "Is there a campstore?" The lady asks, "What do you need?.""A jacket, or a sweatshirt...I heard it's going to get cold tonight."She disappeared into the trailer, and came back with a hoodie, used but clean and warm. It was perfect."How much can I give you for it?""Nothing," she said firmly, "You take care of yourself."Sweet. The kindness of strangers.Now I can hike on, fearless of the impending cold snap. Stop for lunch at Old Orchard Shelter. It rains a bit so I sit inside instead of at the picnic table outside. While I eat I keep hearing a cracking of wood, like someone's hiking up behind the shelter. But no one comes. Then suddenly a deafening crack brings a tall dead tree crashing down onto the shelter. It bounced off of the roof directly above my head..and onto the picnic table, where I would have been sitting were it not for the rain. I acquire a new-found appreciation for rain!I hike on for about 5 miles. I come to a shelter in which a large, unweildy family were taking a break. Then I look over and see the fallen tree. Bewilderment and dismay. I had somehow gotten turned around and hike to the same dag-blame shelter! Two hours of pointless hiking.Here the magic begins again. My new trail angels are Jeff and Diane, and they offer to drive me to Elk Garden, the next trailhead going south. Now I won't be hiking in the middle of the night. We do have to backtrack a bit and I inevitably must relinquish a few miles of the AT. But as Jeff points out, I still walked just as far, mileage-wise. It was nice to interact with their many lovely children, since I was missing my own. Before I struck out on my last 5.5 miles to Thomas Knob Shelter, the family plied me with water, snacks and Diet Pepsi. Thanks angels!Next bungle: I get to a trail sign. I read it carefully. Then I confidently stride down the trail... the wrong trail. Two miles later I start to wonder how long it's been since I'd seen that assuring white blaze(a painted white rectangle on a tree). After another half mile I finally accept that I'd done it again. I turn back grumbling.Back at the sign post I drink a Pepsi. As the caffeine flows into my veins, my spirits improve. Thanks Diane. I hike on. This time on the AT. I make good time up the trail which broke out suddenly into a stunning sista of highland meadows with grazing wild ponies! This was actually my 3rd accidental detour but it only cost me 100 yards and the view was well worth it.Then came the highlight of my day. A string of eight wild ponies appear suddenly in front of me on the trail. They all stopped and waited for me to decide what I wanted to do. The trail is very narrow. Somebody would have to step to the side. I step to the right and as they pass amiably I hold out my hands to them. They sniff, and lick my hands and arms as they pass by. Apparently they love the salty sweat. I was in heaven. Utterly enchanted.