Date: 2003-06-20
From: Chester Gap, VA - Harper's Ferry, WV

To: Chester Gap, VA - Harper's Ferry, WV
Miles today: 53.9

Chester Gap - Harpers Ferry, WV53.9 miles (1007.4 total miles)We didn't get much done in Front Royal on day 77, but we sure ate a lot. We started out at the local diner for breakfast. A short walk across town brought us back to Dunkin Donuts. Then to the grocery store for supplies, and to fast food for lunch. We got a ride back to the trailhead from Flash's family. From there it was a surprisingly easy 7 miles to the shelter. It was very muddy. There was a stretch of about 100 yards of disgusting, foul-smelling, ankle deep mud and horse manure. We tiptoed through, but couldn't help but get dirty. The shelter was great with a porch, chairs, and even a (cold) shower. For dessert I finished my leftover donuts.Day 78 was tough. It rained a steady drizzle all day. (Jen, see what happens when you leave?) We were scheduled to do 19 miles. We got soaked. Everything in my pack got soaked. My feet got even muddier. We hiked on and on and on in the rain and mud. I was nearing my breaking point. I got to the shelter at 5:30, to find it packed. They always fill up fast on rainy days. There was one spot left where I squeezed in. Those behind me were not as lucky.Day 79 was equally tough. The sun came out, but the trail was still muddy. I really hated putting on my wet socks, but I knew that it would only be a matter of minutes until they were soaked again. We had 21 miles to do over a section of trail called "the rollercoaster". It is 13 miles of steep, quick ups and downs. The longer we walked, the slower we got. We stopped at a shelter midway, and at another stream. The distance kept getting slower and slower. My feet were aching.We found a hostel just .1 off the trail that sold sodas. That was anice treat on this humid day. But it took more time, and we were getting behind. We came around a corner to find a "Welcome to West Virginia" sign. Finally a new state! We had walked over 550 miles through Virginia, and were glad to see some progress. But our excitement was short-lived, as the trail dragged on. The time dragged on, and it started to get dark as we were still miles away from the shelter. Why were we so slow? We came across a side trail to a hostel. It was very nice. The hostel was full, so we slept on the caretaker's porch. He gave us sodas. We could see the monuments from DC lit up in the distance. It was a great evening after an exhausting day.My socks were still muddy and wet on day 80. It was raining again in the morning. We had 13 miles into Harpers Ferry because we had stopped early the day before. We took off, determined to get in fairly early. The trail was mostly downhill, but very rocky. The sun came out, and everything was humid and wet. The 13 miles dragged on. We are in desperate need of some relaxation. This has been by far the hardest stretch of trail so far mentally. The one bright spot was passing the 1000 mile mark. That is a milestone to celebrate indeed!We got to Harpers Ferry and walked into the ATC. It's a humble building, but they appreciate their thru-hikers. I got my picture taken for the hiker album, and was the 389th thru-hiker to pass through the ATC this year. I weighed myself - still 30 pounds lighter than when I started. I got my mail drop from the PO (thanks, Carolyn!). And I went to the outfitter for some new shoes! It was a little expensive, but much needed and deserved after 1000 miles.I took a few minutes walking into Harpers Ferry reflecting on 1000 miles. They were miles up over steep mountains with 40 pounds on my back. My living conditions have been less than comfortable, and I travel in any weather. That doesn't include all the miles around town, and blue blazes to water sources and scenic features. I am happy to have walked 1000+ miles. And I am still feeling great, and ready to hike 1000 more.