Date: 2015-04-09
From: Unnamed campsite past US 58

To: Campsite near Big Wilson Creek
Miles today: 16.3
Weather: overcast clouds

We woke up feeling refreshed and rested. We had a couple of big climbs this morning, the first being Whitetop Mountain (5,520'), Virginia's second highest peak and the second, Mt. Rogers (5,729'), Virginia's highest. The first ascent was somewhat long but not too exhausting. Along the Trail we would see ramps, an edible plant that tastes and smells like onion or garlic. The Trail skirted along the top but did not reach the (anyway viewless) summit. Same thing for Mt. Rogers, although this may be for the best due to the area's delicate and fragile ecosystem home to endangered species.Following this section, the Trail entered the Grayson Highlands National Park, which features long stretches of bald hills and rocks and is where herds of wild ponies call home.PONIES!I was excited about the prospect of seeing these famous ponies. Apparently, the ponies were introduced in the 60's to help maintain de balds which had been used for cattle in the past. While these ponies are considered feral, the herds' health is still closely monitored; some individuals are sometimes sold off to control population growth.We began hiking with renewed enthusiasm. We saw (and smelled) ponie droppings but not the actual animals that made them. The Trail swerved in and out of small, densely packed groups of trees to finally emerge out onto open, bare, quite desolate highlands. Then, we spotted a mare and her foal grazing right in the middle of the Trail.I approached the pair cautiously and tentatively brushed my fingers along their coarse, thick hair. There was no reaction; the ponies were aloof, their attention only focused on the grass they were eating. It was like trying to get the attention of a cat that clearly disregards human feelings (cat owners will understand). After a few seconds, the mare's head sprang up, as if she was only now aware of our presence. She approached me and noisily sniffed my extended arm, exhaling warm air. Probably enticed by the saltiness of my sweat, she licked my hand and arm, leaving small grass clippings on my skin. I wanted to stay longer but there were many, many day hikers behind us, including children, so we decided to move on. It was a short yet very unique encounter.We hiked on and after a while unexpectedly came upon a small group of ponies. Now, I had a bit more time to take a few additional pictures! Again, we passed unnoticed among the ponies. The last few miles were on flat but rocky terrain which began to hurt my feet. Ah, memories of Pennsylvania! As in Proust's famous passage in " la recherche du temps perdu" ("In search of lost time"), the feel of the rocks beneath my feet evoked sudden memories and experiences, though, unlike the author, I was not flooded with visions and sensations of a childhood scene but instead, my big toe throbbed as if it had been hit against a rock mid-tumble.PA, you are many hikers' least favorite state yet, notwistanding, the thought of revisiting you sharpens my determination: you had been such a challenge during our section hike, I am curious to see how we will fare this second time. Hopefully my renewed resolve will uphold me during the whole state of VA...Dark clouds were looming above us. We set up camp quickly as we were anticipating thundershowers and heavy rain. I am now in my sleeping bag and very uncomfortable: I think I got a sunburn on my thighs which developped into a red inflammed rash. At least it matches the others angry, swollen eruptions I have collected on my legs...*weeping softly*Final note: we passed the 500-mile point!- Axon