Date: 2021-07-03
From: Grafton Notch

To: South Arm Road
Miles today: 20.4
Weather: clear sky

Iceberg, Quiksilver and I were up before five and getting out light packs ready. I went down to the common area for some coffee and remembered I had a pint of clam chowder in the fridge still from yesterday. I decided to roll the gastrointestinal dice have a second dinner, rather than waste food. Hiking on a full stomach of clam soup - what could go wrong?Mark, the hotel owner, took us on the half hour drive back to Grafton Notch at six am. Not only that, but he took our gear to Andover and dropped it off at The Cabin Hostel for us, saving us $40.  He could not have been more helpful during our stay - a true Trail Angel. So as slack packers, we were committed to a 20 mile day, no tents or hammocks or extra gear to survive in the cold, rainy woods. First on the menu was a 2300 foot climb up Baldplate West and East Peaks. Once we got above 3000 feet we were hiking in the clouds with light rain and a steady wind. The final ascent up the East Peak was on exposed rock slabs and it was simply exhilarating in the weather. I even broke out my rain kilt as my big concern for the day was avoiding hypothermia, so staying as dry as possible was on my mind. We got the first 5 miles done in just over three hours, but we were back below the tree line and the rain has stopped.  I kept my rain gear on to stay warm on the long descent off the mountain and did my level best to stay vertical.  I did forget to mention that I had one slip yesterday where my feet slid out from under me and I slowly went to ground like a ship slipping below the waves. Not quite a fall, but certainly not staying on my feet. Then came a long 1700 foot uphill to Wyman mountain. But this was unlike any ascent I¢ve seen since the mid Atlantic states - it was gradual, mostly rock free, and we were able to average over two miles per hour. This was a welcome development on a big mile day with over 7300 feet of elevation gain and lots of downhill too. We had to make time somewhere in order to get to the hostel before evening. The last climb of the day was a very steep up and over Mt Moody.  When I got to the summit I broke out the first trail beer of my hike. I had packed it out from the hotel that morning figuring I might as well make some use of the 50 degree temps and keeping beer cold seemed a good use. Iceberg called for our shuttle pickup and then down we went to the road. The Cabin Hostel is described as a ¢trail icon¢ which translates loosely as ¢sardine bunk rooms, one toilet, and strong odors¢. On the plus side, it¢s owned by Miss Honey who is 89, loves hikers, and is hiking the 100 mile wilderness herself later this summer.  Also on the plus side she is assisted by two former thru hikers who run shuttles and assist with cooking. Finally on the plus side, they served a $10. dinner of bbq chicken, salad, potatoes, corn on the cob, iced tea, brownies, and ice cream. Miss Honey and her crew kept bringing food until everyone had waved off. Truly nice people. I took a shower after dinner (shower shoes firmly on) and put on some loaner clothes - including the first pair of cutoffs I¢ve worn in 45 years.  I knew I¢d have new experiences on this hike, wearing Daisy Dukes wasn¢t on my list of probables. Tomorrow is again supposed to be cold and rainy, so we¢re doing a 13 mile slack pack southbound back to the hostel. This is fine. I Swear.