Date: 2013-04-20
From: Elmer's Sunnybank Inn, Hot Springs, NC

To: Deep Gap, Little Paint Creek Stealth Camp
Miles today: 12.8

I slept so, so well last night that I almost made it to 7 a.m. I didn't want to get out of bed. I was feeling comfortable and lazy. I sort of dreaded getting back on the trail which was a HUGE red flag. I need to get back out there before my resolve softens anymore. We got up and started packing. My food bag is so big that it won't fit sideways into my pack. I pulled some stuff out and rebagged it. I can get it in my pack now, but it is ridiculously heavy. Honestly, I might now have to resupply in Erwin, TN; just pick up my bounce box and keep trucking. Another exciting note, I didn't seem to get out of Elmer's without plugging the commode. Honestly, I think it was the person before me, but I got the honor of going downstairs and telling the crew that there was a problem. Excellent. Pathfinder and I had breakfast at the Smokey Mountain Diner. We saw Chris and Robert- part of the Warrior Hiker crew, and it took me a moment to register the significance of seeing Robert. The last time I had seen him a few days before, they were taking him to the hospital where subsequently he passed some kidney stones. He took 2 zero days, and then hike 32 miles in one day to catch up with his group! I'm in utter awe. Anywho, after a less than stellar breakfast, we said our good-byes. There were two old-timers sitting on the front porch having their morning coffee and watching everyone come and go. I wish I could have sat down with them and heard some stories.Pathfinder and I split ways. She was heading up the mountain, and I really hoped to fit in a soak in the hot springs. Unfortunately they didn't fire up the tubs until 10 a.m., and it was barely after 9 a.m. when I arrived. I wasn't willing to wait, so I crossed back over to the road and called my parents-in-law i watched the 5K-- Hot Springs was hosting their Trail Days festival-- start and finish while we chatted. Finally we hung up, and I jumped the guardrail and started hiking.The morning air smelled of wild onion as I followed the AT along the French Broad river. The water was brown and churning from the previous day's rain. It was cold in the shadow of the cliffs, and my hands ached. My pack was heavy and over-stuffed so I didn't stop to dig out my gloves. The trail cut up steeply and zig-zagged up a rock face. I was slow moving from full belly and heavy pack. I passed the festival's photographer. He asked me why I was leaving town during the festival. I was embarrassed, and coyly said that I needed to escape the crowds. The truth is that though the crowds were getting to me, I knew that my motivation level was getting dangerously low, and I could feel 'town' urging me with its siren song. I was afraid that at any moment I would fling down my pack and flee back to civilization. I had to go. I hadn't realized that most of my AT foresight and planning took me only as far as Hot Springs and the GSMNP. Everything from now on is more like a vague mystery. I have few expectations, and so I don't really have a strong drive to push, push, push. in some ways its quite a relief. I fell like I can be more honest about the mileage I do everyday. I feel less pressure to 'make big miles', especially given the amount of food I have. lol. Hell, I could take a week and some change to get to Erwin and still be swimming in the calories!So the path climbed, and I climbed with it. There were several cool rocky outcrop vistas with great views out over the French Broad river. But I felt too unsteady under the weight of my pack to enjoy them too much. Once I gained a bit of elevation I noticed hundreds and hundreds of wild irises! They were 3/4 and much shorter- only an inch or so off the ground- than their more showy garden-variety cousins, but they were brillant purple with deep yellow throats. What a treat!There seemed to be lots of day hikers out, but few thru-hikers. I stopped at a log to eat my left-over pizza. I wasn't really hungry, but I was tired of carrying the weight. Shaman and Garden Girl stopped by to say hi and then pass on. There was a note on the ground giving directions to a Rainbow Gathering near-by. I guess I'll miss those festivities too. I was walking along the trail and I saw a huge concrete wall rise before me. The trail climbed up beside it, and there was a small man-made pond on the other side. I seriously considered going skinny dipping, and I got so far as to stripping down to my underwear and wadding thigh deep into the water. But the water was cold and the air was cool. I just wasn't feeling it. So I got back dressed and sat down by the water's edge for a while to absorb the forest's stillness. A pair of legs appeared, walking along the water's edge. Their owner didn't see me, but I saw them, and the spell was broken. It was time to go. The trail crossed several dirt roads and turn-offs for trailheads. I walked in circles trying to figure decipher the guidebook's directions. Finally I found the white blaze and continued on.Blimy caught up with me- he is the owner of the legs and we chatted as we crossed a big bridge and came upon trail magic on the other side. Bonsai's twin brother ?(Mike?, Matt?) and his wife Corraine were grilling up meat, handing out drinks supplies and books- damn it! I managed to eat a piece of chicken and drink some juice and nip a copy of iii "The Little Prince"- one of my favorite books of all time. my book count is back up to 2 :/After the break I was moving more slowly and arduously. I wanted to make it at least past the shelter, but I had no intention of staying ther given the norovirus outbreak. I said to the hikers there as I passed, but I kept moving. There were several ups and downs, and my body was asking me in increasingly pleading tones to "STOP". There was a lightly traveled trail at Deep Gap to Little Paint Creek trail and a stream. I decided to give it a try. It took 10 minutes to get down to the stream, but as soon as I heard it, I knew I was 'there.' The only flat spot I could find was literally right in the middle of the trail, directly next to the stream. I pitched my tent and took over an hour to cook, eat and get cleaned up. I wondered how many animals used this lightly traveled trail. I wondered if they watered right where I was camping. I hung my food bag and crawled in for a night's rest.