Date: 2007-12-31
From: Gatlinburg

To: Russell Field Shelter
Miles today: 27.2
Weather: clear sky

Ron, our shuttle driver, turned up on time at 5:30 a.m. so I was dropped at Newfound Gap by 6 a.m. After a tearful departure, we were both on our separate ways; I for the trail and Susan for Franklin to await my arrival. It was a cracker day - perfect in all ways. I had a very big day ahead of me as I wanted to get past all the high country before snow arrived (forecast to mid-night) so I took the road up to Clingmans Dome (having already gone up by the track) so probably became the only AT Thru' Hiker to climb Clingmans Dome three times in the course of their thru' hike.David at the Clingman's Dome signpost for the third time. The walk was pleasant though cool with the temperature dropping to -2oC (28.4 oF). I was tempted to walk by starlight but I had visions of walking into a bear sitting in the shadows so I used my torch until dawn.There was heavy icing on the trail down from the Dome but with no flowing water, ice was easy to spot. I paused at the place where Susan fell before continuing on to Double Springs Shelter. The "shelter" looked not too bad in fine weather; not like a few days ago. The pond covering 80% of the floor was gone but it had left a large wet patch - which the occupants were curious about. The lake outside the shelter had also dried up. Silas Bald ShelterTrack south of Silas BaldTravel along this section of the trail was very easy with few obstructions under-foot and mostly easy gradients. I climbed 1849m during the day with 450m of that being up the road (2133m down). The sun shone through the trees and it was a great day to hike. By lunchtime, I was at Derrick Knob Shelter. It was good to see the spring flowing strongly. A benefit of all the rain is that I no longer had a desperate hunt for water at lunchtime and in the evening.The afternoon seemed a little harder than the morning with a stiff climb over Thunderhead and Rocky Top; but maybe my tiredness was due to the length of the day. The day remained fine and calm. My attention kept wandering as I admired the view through the trees and searched (in vain) for trail markers rather than watch the trail closely so this no doubt why I missed a rather large root crossing the track. But it did not miss me and I came crashing down. A little blood, a bruised shoulder and mangled glasses later, I was on my way again. Now my glasses will now only stay on if I wear my don't-shoot-me beanie.On Thunderhead Mtn (April photo by Catchup - Bette Frazier>View of Mt. Leconte from Rocky Top - photo by Kirk RobertsI paused at Spence Field Shelter but as it was only 3:30 I decided to push on though another 5 kms on top of the 39 I had done already was rather daunting. But the trail was excellent and despite another couple of trips over rocks and roots, made it by 4:15pm - far earlier than I ever dreamed. Russell Field again had good water with the stream flowing steadily with large pools and only a few minutes from the shelter. Like most shelters in the Smokies that I visited, it had a large tarpaulin over the open front. This cut the wind with the result that the shelter was significantly warmer inside than out; and one would probably stay dry in the rain. The shelter was very quiet and lonely that night. Not only was bear and mouse activity absent but there was no-one yelling out "stop snoring" all the time.Susan from Franklin: I like that!! It is usually a poke in the ribs! I am in Franklin, needless to say, staying at the Sapphire Inn. Ron McGaha, our shuttle driver, was really good to me. On arrival he refused to leave me on the doorstep but took me to some place for breakfast, then to Walmart to buy books and a few groceries. He was a great find. I had been trying to organise transport for a day or two and had a number of names from the outfitter to contact but it wasn't till I talked to Ron that it all came together. He flinched a bit at the 5.30am start, but he is a hiker and understood the reasons for the early start without my having to explain it. I found the other providers pretty hopeless. Ron has a huge truck he drives about so there are not many places or conditions that would stop him. He is also a very good careful driver. I would highly recommend his services to other hikers. The rest of the day was truly boring. I mentally followed every step of Dave's way. I also rang my mother and cried on her shoulder.Colonel Russell Field Shelter photo by Chaco - Jeff PhillipsSunset in the Smokies by Boo-Boo (Rebecca)