morvasaaty/AppalachianTrail-LD-Hikers-Blogs-and-Weather-20-years huggingface dataset:
Date: 2004-08-21
From: Franconia Notch Bike Path

To: Liberty Spring Tent Site
Miles today: 2.5

0.1 off-trail miles.After hearing the weather forecast and waiting out the morning and early afternoon rain in town, Rael and I ventured up to Liberty Spring Tentsite, getting the 2350-foot climb out of the way before tomorrow's climbs over Mounts Lincoln (5089'), Lafayette (5249') and Garfield (4488'). The cloud cover lifted as we hiked up and there's a stiff breeze blowing this evening. Glad to have my long underwear and two sleeping bag liners. Sun likely tomorrow.I packed 6-7 days of food for this next leg to Pinkham Notch. Trying to avoid the Appalachian Mountain Club hut monopoly which treats hikers like indentured servants under the guise of "work for stay". There are no free tentsites or shelters in the Whites because of high use, they say, but the huts, at $75 per night, are a blatant abuse of AMC's power to soak hikers. You start hearing hikers talking about "stealth" sites about now -- places to tent that are on the trail but not official AMC sites. At one hostel before the Whites, some creative hiker had drawn a Harry Potter-like map of stealth sites in the Whites for hikers to copy.My hair's getting pretty shaggy. I gave myself a "trim" with a Swiss Army knife, but could use a more professional job.While Rael and I were waiting for a ride back out to the trail, a local hunter, impressed at our hike, offered us some Mountain House dehydrated meals! We reluctantly refused them -- reluctantly because they're very light, very expensive, high quality meals; we had to say no, thogh because we'd already packed our food for this leg and knew better than to add even a few ounces. It always takes so long to sort out the contents of one's pack for each leg of the hike that it isn't worth it to have to rethink it and repack.Tonight's the first time I'm setting up my tent on a platform. Used my bear-bag cord to tie it down (instead of staking it), and it worked fine. The tent platforms are used to provide tenting areas in non-level, high-use areas. I hadn't realized what a tourist mecca New Hampshire is in the summer, but met a number of British and French (Canadian?) tourists in the last two days, some using Lonely Planet guide books.
Date: 2004-08-22
From: Liberty Spring Tent Site

To: Garfield Ridge Campsite
Miles today: 7.7
Weather: clear sky

Could not have wished for a more perfect day to cross the ridge of mountains -- Little Haystack, Lincoln, Lafayette and Garfield. Lots of dayhikers out as well as French tourists. We had a perfect view of Moosilauke and also of Mount Washington! The first time I've smelled sunscreen in months was at Little Haystack where some dayhikers were soaking up the sun. Clear blue skies first thing in the morning. From the peaks we could see clouds in the far distance.Today also marked the largest congregation of thru-hikers I've seen in one place since Damascus, VA. We got a group photo atop Lafayette.
Date: 2004-08-23
From: Garfield Ridge Campsite

To: Zealand Falls
Miles today: 9.3

0.2 off trail milesA long, long day. I left April Showers at the tentsite, worried about what she might or might not be able to do tomorrow. Yesterday, a mile from the campsite, she sprained her ankle badly, and several hikers split up the contents of her pack to get her there. I left her with extra water this morning and spoke to the AMC caretaker on my way out about my fear that she may have broken something. He was doubtful, but mostly uninterested. (Isn't there an AMC protocol for injured hikers??) It made me sad to think of her there, watching everyone leave, one by one, while she sat there uncertain about whether she'd even be able to get down the mountain tomorrow when her husband comes to meet her.It also made me sad to think that we had abandoned her -- that the trail camaraderie doesn't extend to genuine care for anyone other than oneself. I know that ultimately we all have to be self-sufficient out here, but I'd like to imagine some kind soul would be willing to help me down the mountain if I broke my ankle. Hiking this trail should say something about who we are as human beings -- a sad commentary that none of us stayed behind; we're so wrapped up in our own trips. Rael's one of the few people out here whom I trust to do the right thing, but he said to me later that he worried that I might stay behind with April Showers.It took me a long time to do the miles today -- between the taxing terrai and my pondering on the limits of personal responsibility. Before I got to Zealand Falls, it began to rain. I started fantasizing that I'd be invited into a warm hut, given food and a floor to sleep on for the night...But when I arrived, the yuppies were all sitting on the porch watching the rain come down, and the eight hikers who made it in early enough to "work for stay" were bent over their dinners, shovelling it in. It was a Dickensian scene, or something out of "Upstairs, Downstairs." Hikers are the beggars of the White Mountains.Crocker was there with her great smile and a detailed message from Rael about where he'd be stealth tenting. I felt a little self-righteous leaving the workers-for-stay and tourists behind to find a camping spot in the pouring rain. Didn't end up finding Rael's spot, but did find a gravel area (no fragile alpine vegetation to be trampled!) right beside the lower falls, so listened to rushing water all night, half expecting an AMC caretaker to tell me to "Git!" (I have a much longer jeremiad against the AMC in my written journal, but I will spare my readers and save it for a poison pen letter to the AMC.)
Date: 2004-08-24
From: Zealand Falls

To: NH302/Crawford Notch
Miles today: 7.4
Weather: clear sky

2.3 off-trail milesa.m.: Restless night last night, as the mice danced around my pot, trying to get inside for the pasta scum leftover from my dinner. Also half-expected an AMC goon to show up and tell me to move my tent. (Instead, the morning parade of hikers-out have lowered their voices respectfully as they've spotted my tent beside the trail. "Oh, she made it!" one woman said.)Evening: Took my time coming down the trail today -- clear blue skies, great swimming holes in a tea-stained river flowing from Ethan Pond, itself sparkling in the sun. Part of the trail followed an old railway bed through rocky mountain passes, other parts traversed muddy, marshy areas on plank walks through the woods.When I reached NH302, I made a beeline for the Willey House snackbar for lunch and ice cream. The site had a magnificent view of the mountain I'll be climbing tomorrow via Webster Cliffs Trail -- 2800' in 2.8 miles.Tonight I'm "stealth tenting" in Crawford Notch State Park.
Date: 2004-08-25
From: NH302/Crawford Notch

To: Nauman Tentsite
Miles today: 6.5
Weather: scattered clouds

0.1 off-trail milesLeft my woodsy campsite between 10 and 11 I'd guess, got water from the Saco River, and headed up the Webster Cliffs Trail. Another fine blue-sky day -- remarkable. Rael says "We're being handed the Whites on a silver platter." The climb so far, though consistently uphill, is not something I couldn't have done yesterday afternoon, especially after that meal at Willey House. Now I'm wishing I had gone ahead, since i may find myself a day behind Rael by tomorrow. Nevermind, I'll catch up to him in Gorham when he takes a zero day. The plus side is that I'll be out of the rather large crowd that I've been in for the past few nights, so it should be easier to find tentsites and get into the "Dungeon" at Lakes of the Clouds hut tomorrow night -- the subterranean bunkhouse for thru-hikers at the next AMC "hut-el." I'll pay $8 for it, but I won't be a serf to the paying guests.12:30-ish: Reached the top of Webster Cliffs with no worries. Could easily have done this yesterday and stealth tented. Will try to get to Lakes of the Clouds tonight.4-5 p.m.: Uh, probably not. I just reached Mount Jackson's summit, where Don't Mind took my picture with Mount Washington in the background, the black smoke from the cog train spoiling an otherwise clear blue sky. The summit of Washington looks like the Manhattan skyline with all of the towers and structures on top.Also visible below is the Mizbah hut, next to the Nauman tentsite where I'll be tonight. I'll have to ask around tonight to find out what the hike to Lakes is like, to decide whether to climb Washington tomorrow or the next day.9-ish p.m.: Have decided to go to the Dungeon at Lakes tomorrow since the mileage to sites beyond the next AMC fiefdom is beyond my capacity.    Hope to arrive in time to avoid having to "sing for my supper" or otherwise play serf to the AMC feudal lord.Meanwhile, Joker and Spiceman climbed up behind me today over Mount Webster; they had taken five days off to go to the Phish concert in Vermont and recover from it; and Moo Juice, Beagle, Don't Mind and Don't Matter passed me on Mount Jackson; MJ and Beagle are in the tentsite next to mine.The Nauman tentsite caretaker, Turtle, seemed a little lonely tonight. We chatted a while, while I wolfed down my supper of minute rice, tuna, chicken soup mix, dried tomatoes and parmesan cheese -- hiker's risotto.When I went to dump my dishwater at the colander, a trio of "hutters" from Mizbah were having a look at the tentsites -- the toffs curious about how us 'umble folk live.I'm ignoring the bear boxes tonight. Bears -- pfeh! As for other wildlife, I did see a guinea fowl on my way in.
Date: 2004-08-26
From: Nauman Tentsite

To: Lakes of the Clouds Hut/The Dungeon
Miles today: 4.8

9 a.m. My entry in the Mizpah Hut guest log: "I'm here to register my discontent with the way the AMC is using my membership dues. In every state other than New Hampshire, thru-hikers are provided free shelter along the A.T. -- no one is turned away or required to 'sing for their supper' -- SHAME!!"-----------------------------------a.m. the view from Mount Clinton (aka Pierce) across to Mount Washington is very hazy today. Whatever bit me on the neck and behind my left ear several nights ago left an itchy welt. I noticed Rael had a scabby lump on the back of his neck where he'd scratched it raw. Spiders??Speaking of Rael, looks as if I've lost him for this trip. By tomorrow, he'll be two days ahead of me. So long, friend!---------------------1:30 p.m. I'm installed in the Dungeon at Lakes of the Clouds, a stone cellar, 10' x 10', with six plywood bunks and a metal shelf to cook on. Still wondering if I shouldn't just pack up and head to the USFS tentsite below Madison Hut, but it's nice to have an afternoon off.I just went into the bathroom upstairs to fill my water bottles and a woman came out of her stall with a flashlight (!), shone it up and down me as if she were inspecting a side of beef in a meat locker, then made a disapproving "mmm" to herself. I'm guessing that:a) she's crazyb) she disapproves of my unfashionable hiker garbc) she disapproves of my hiker stenchd) all of the above.From the hut dining room I have a splendid view of Mount Washington and just heard the cog train whistle toot. (I wonder how much of the consistent cloud cover and acid rain on the mountain is the result of the train's smoke.) Coming up to the hut, I could feel cool air coming from the south, and a warmer current from the north.Breathtakingly beautiful evening, and above tree line the whole sky is visible. Layers of violet mountains against pink hazy skies and an orange setting sun; in the opposite direction, an enormous, white, three-quarter moon is rising over the sunlit rocks. Have been sitting out in the sun most of the afternoon, looking up at the rocks and the wispy cirrus clouds. Glad I stayed.
Date: 2004-08-27
From: Lakes of the Clouds Hut/The Dungeon

To: Madison tentsite
Miles today: 7.0

I'm really beat tonight. The above-treeline hike through the presidentials was magnificent -- a cross between the Alps and the Twelve Apostles behind Table Mountain. Vistas of enormous curves, folds and parabolic waves of mountains, seeming to fall off into oblivion. Although most of the hiking fairly followed the contour line -- the A.T. does not summit Eisenhower, Monroe or Adams, but skirts them -- the trail is nothing more than a series of cairns between which one hops from rock to rock, requiring a great deal of attention to prevent falls and ankle twists. Some of the younger guys blast across them while I carefully pick my way across, but everyone is slowed down by the unstable footing.Summitting Mount Washington was much the same, but it was fun to be there among hikers rather than having driven up or taken the cog train. We all took turns taking each other's pictures at the summit marker. It was mostly clouded over, but I didn't mind since I've had great views for two days in a row. I sent out a few postcards, just to get the Mount Washington postage cancellation stamp on them. I also had two meals there within 90 minutes, and bought breakfast and lunch for tomorrow. Tonight I'm tenting about half mile below Madison Hut, back below treeline, within earshot of a waterfall, nestled among the pines. (It's actually a gravel gully in a watershed, though, so if it starts to rain tonight, I'm in trouble.)Badger and PapaBear passed me today and said that April Showers did make it down the mountain from Garfield tentsite. I was relieved to hear it, even though I'm sure she was in a lot of pain.Lorax, Joker and Spiceman passed me on the way up Washington and when we crossed the cog train tracks, they got in position to moon the train as it passed -- a thru-hiker "tradition." Since that wasn't on my "to do" list for the day, I left them to it, only to find that later that I've got a rather large hole in my shorts and have been inadvertently mooning passing hikers all day!On the last hump to Madison Hut, I lost my footing and fell -- fortunately -- into the krumholz -- dwarf trees, mostly balsam fir, that form a springy tundra above treeline. So for the next ten minutes I smelled of pine needles instead of a ripe gym bag.On the subject of scents, I packed a cup of laundry detergent in a ziploc bag in each of my last few drop boxes only to find that my trail mix and drink mixes, also in baggies, have a distinctly soapy smell and flavor to them. The upside of this, of course, is that even though I may be filthy on the surface, my alimentary canal is "April fresh!"Descending from Madison Hut, just below treeline, there's a sign I saw when I first entered the Whites reading: "STOP. The area you are entering has the worst weather in America. People have died of exposure even in the summer. Do NOT proceed if the weather is bad." It does give one pause for thought.
Date: 2004-08-28
From: Madison tentsite

To: NH16
Miles today: 3.0

2.9 off-trail milesI'm in the clouds this morning. It was a windy night, so there's no condensation in my single-wall tent -- easier to pack out. I plan to get to Pinkham Notch tonight, get a few food items and fuel from the campstore there, then go on two more days to gorham. This will be my longest stretch without a shower or laundry. I had considered going into Gorham tonight from Pinkham Notch, but feared I just might not leave once I got there... My legs (knees and feet mostly) and hips are feeling the stress of being on rocks all day. I may zero in Gorham.------------------------Stopped in at the hut to brush my teeth and fill up my water bottles, sign the register and wipe myself down before the climb up Madison. Wildly windy and shrouded in cloud, Madison felt like Everest. Every once in a while a patch of mist would brighten to give me a sense of where the sun was, and the cairns and white blazes provided beacons in the mist. At one point a fat raven appeared overhead, blown sideways by the wind. Towards the top, I was on my hands and knees a few times, blown over myself. My pack cover rattled constantly, catching the wind and nearly pulling me over once. At the top, taking shelter behind a boulder,I met a nice couple from Keene, NH, who had decided that they were going to hike the A.T. at age 55, once their six children were self-sufficient. They had lots of questions and congratulated me for getting this far. Nice folks.On the other side of Madison, the clouds thinned and I had a good view of the surrounding valleys, the rocky ridgewalk ahead, and part of the long, windy road up Mount Washington, which I will cross later today.The first mile took me two hours to do (including two breaks)!Later: The first three miles took me five hours altogether -- tough footing over stones and a steep, rocky, rooty downhill. Met several dayhikers headed for Madison Hut who had just started that segment and already looked miserable. By the time I reached Osgood Tentsites, I felt done in, but the terrain and footing suddenly transition into mostly dirt, with some roots and stones, despite one dayhiker's description of it as "very rocky" ahead. I hated to think how he would fare ahead.When I stopped for water at Osgood Tentsites, I met Scarecrow and I Need A Hug, who sat down to make lunch. Wish I had stuck with them! I was supposed to turn there, a sharp right, but the ambiguous signage had me thinking that I was still on the A.T. (The AMC is not big on white blazes for A.T. hikers, so it's easy to get lost around here if you don't buy their maps.)Anyway, I went 2.6 miles to NH16, at which point I was fairly close to Gorham, so I just decided to hitch into town for the night. Glad I did, as the A.T. Barn -- a beautiful old barn adjacent to a Victorian house (Libby's B&B), all painted mauve and cream -- was welcoming, cool, comfy and cheap. After taking a shower, doing laundry, catching up with "Sponge Bob" Pete, and taking a nap, I felt so much better. Sat up and watched all 3+ hours of "Gulliver's Travels" on video. Skippy and Poppins arrived, too. Quiet night.
Date: 2004-08-29
From: NH16

To: Gorham, NH
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: fog

2.0 off-trail milesBliss to be off my feet today. Decided by 8 a.m. that a zero-day was in order -- overdue even -- especially with morning rain showers and predictions of heavy thunderstorms.It felt great to watch the Sunday news shows, read The Boston Sunday Globe, eat a big breakfast and snooze in the La-Z-Boy and chat with the hostel owner, Doc, and his neighbor about his flowers. (Apparently his neighbor was a stage manager for many years at the Metropolitan Opera House in NYC!)I also made a giant birthday card for Rael for everyone to sign before he gets here -- if he gets here -- tonight, from US2. He had a tough 14-mile hike to do today. Ah, he just walked in.
Date: 2004-08-30
From: Osgood Tentsites

To: Pinkham Notch/NH16
Miles today: 4.8
Weather: light rain

3.5 off-trail milesWhen I got up from the bed yesterday, it looked as though I'd spilled silver glitter on the sheet -- from all the particles of mica in the dirt on my legs yesterday!All of the locals have been complaining about the humidity -- feels splendidly arid to me (at least compared to Providence in the summer)!Retraced my steps from the Great Gulf Wilderness parking area and discovered where I'd made my wrong turn, and covered the miles to Pinkham Notch. I'm set now to head up Wildcat first thing tomorrow morning.Doat, Sweaty Pig's friend and trail angel, was on his way home when he saw me hitching towards Gorham and pulled in at the Pinkham Notch parking lot to give me a lift. He also gave rides to three young hikers I'd just met -- Fugitive, Top Knot, and Dr. Space Monkey 5000.Rael took a zero today and is probably at yoga class now. I'll wander over to see if he's gained some flexibility since we hobbled to breakfast this morning and he told ME to "Slow down, Swifty."Glad to take another night at the Barn to relax and not worry about the weather or the weight of my food bag for one more night.
Date: 2004-08-31
From: Pinkham Notch/NH16

To: Carter Notch Hut
Miles today: 5.9
Weather: fog

0.2 off-trail milesSeven hours to do six miles. I had heard from Rael that Wildcat Mountain was going to be challenging. It was also the most fun -- a great climb, again requiring handholds from time to time. With a day pack it would have been a good bit less dangerous, just because it's harder for me to keep my balance with this load on my back.Still, I like the part of climbing that feels like a puzzle -- looking for the best toe holds or ledges or cracks in which to place my feet and hands, and hoisting myself up a rock face, but without the open-air, free-fall feeling of more vertical climbs. Out here, there was almost always a root or tree trunk to grab on to to keep me steady.At the top of Wildcat E, I saw a bright orange fox shoot by into the woods -- one of a pair that lives in this area, according to the caretaker at the Carter Notch Hut (a modestly priced, self-service AMC hut, as they all should be).Rael suggested this morning that I skip ahead of this section for now and join the larger group I had been with through Mahoosuc Notch. It was tempting, since, from what I've heard, it's helpful to have someone with you to pass packs through and under and between boulders when it's too narrow to go through face forward or too low to crawl or squeeze through with the pack on. I considered going ahead, but the cost and time of shuttling back here to do this section -- all the schlepping and arrangements to make -- turned me off. Besides, I expect to do Mahoosuc Notch on the Sunday of Labor Day weekend -- there'll be plenty of other folks around.I'll miss Rael's company -- the good advice along with the wisecracks and diatribes against the AMC -- but should see him again before I summit Katahdin, since he's planning to turn right around at Katahdin and southbound the 100-mile wilderness back to Monson in time for his 50th birthday.
Date: 2004-09-01
From: Carter Notch Hut

To: Imp Shelter
Miles today: 7.2
Weather: fog

0.3 off-trail milesSome crystal-clear views today of the Whites, sparkling lakes, boulder fields, green mountains and valley going on forever in all directions. A steep climb out of Carter Notch, and a challenging descent from Carter North to the shelter, but the three peaks -- Carter South, Middle Carter, and Carter North -- rolled into each other. Helpful to have the good company of Sunset, whom I hadn't seen since Icewater Spring Shelter in the Smokies. He rolled in late last night. A self-described farm-boy from South Carolina, he's been affiliated with Circuit Rider and the trail ministry group. Very chatty, though I understand only half of what he says through his charming Carolina lilt.We spent the day chatting about people we've met on the trail, catching up on history and gossip. Imp Shelter is set on a spectacularly beautiful site, with a bench set on a ledge for watching the sunset, and a water source running down a giant stone chute of angular rocks -- like a silver bookmark in a half-open book.Three college groups are here tonight -- Amhearst, Bates and Brown -- for freshman orientation. Nice idea!
Date: 2004-09-03
From: US2/Gorham

To: Gorham
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: clear sky

Sunset hit the trail today at 3 p.m. I just didn't feel like moving. I'm ready to hit the trail first thing tomorrow, after taking another zero and feeling a little mopey.Little Tree arrived this afternoon -- a breath of fresh air. She lives in the Florida Keys so has been watching the Hurricane Frances reports on the Weather Channel.