Date: 2016-06-29
From: Manassas Gap Shelter

To: Bears Den Hostel
Miles today: 23.0

The air cooled down considerably last night and I was able to sleep really well. I woke about 6:30 and tore down my tent and packed up my gear quickly and walked down to the shelter to eat my breakfast. Morning Song, Towhee, and the rest of their family where already down there eating breakfast. They made room for me at the picnic table and I enjoyed listening to their conversation. It turns out that they were all bird "experts" and got very excited talking about their bird sitings or various bird calls. Their enthusiasm reminded me of my grandfather, an avid birder. This was their last day on their Virginia section and so I wished them well as I left for the trail.I took off at 8 am and the cool air made a huge difference in my walking speed, and enjoyment. I made really good time (for me) and covered the first nine miles in under four hours. The trail passed through Sky Meadows State Park and I found that section particularly beautiful as the trail finally got away from the trees and passed through numerous high meadows. As I continued on I thought that I might actually be able to get to the 1000 mile mark until ... until I came to the roller coaster. There is a sign proclaiming to hikers that they are about to enter the famous "roller coaster", and to enjoy the ride. The roller coaster is 13.5 miles of tightly packed ascents and descents, much of it rocky.The roller coaster definitely slowed my progress but by 7pm I was at Mile 999. Decision time - go on or stay at the shelter nearby. I decided to go on; I really wanted to make the 1000 mile milestone, and it had already been 20 miles for the day. I was hot, tired, sweaty, and running low on energy. If I camped, I would be fresh in the morning for the milestone, and somehow it seemed to me that it wouldn't have meant as much. I struggled up one last hill at finally got to the 1000 mile point. It was just a small simple wood sign that said "1000", not even "1000 Miles" or "GA - 1000 miles". There was no one else around. In fact I had only seen two thru hikers all day and a half dozen day hikers. So I took my picture with the sign selfie style, which I hate. I always look goofy. I continued on up the hill and back down. I could have camped at the top as there was a nice stealth campsite, but there was the Bears Den Hostel only 2.5 miles away. And at the hostel they served pizza with your stay! And ice cream! So off I went, 2.5 more miles of the roller coaster. I passed several people camping and a couple more day hikers, but I was the only thru hiker left on the trail.By the time I got to the hostel it was almost 9 and getting dark. Bears Den is famous, a hostel owned by the ATC and operated by the Potomac ATC. It is an old stone castle like structure built on top of a mountain. A doctor built in in the 1920's as his vacation retreat, and after numerous ownership changes it ended up in the hands of the ATC. I checked in. I was exhausted after 23 miles in 12.5 hours. This was my longest day yet. Some of the younger hikers routinely do 25+ miles a day. Not me.I got my bunk, showered, threw in laundry, and selected a frozen pizza to cook. There were probably 20 other hikers in for the night milling around talking, eating, watching TV. Bears Den is a really clean, we'll run hostel. They frequently host groups and retreats. The manager said they were already booked for most weekends in the fall and winter. I can see why, it's a nice place.I finally fell into my bunk around 11, exhausted but clean and full. The 1000 mile milestone meant a lot to me today. I'm still not even half way to Maine, but I am 1000 miles from Springer Mtn, GA. And that's a long way.