Date: 2005-04-07
From: Double Spring Shelter?

To: Gatlinburg
Miles today: 2.9
Weather: light rain

4.7.05Day 258pm Last year was the year of the 'zero'; this year it's the 'nero'. Churned out a whopping 2.9 miles today, up and over Clingman's. Well, not 'over', b/c we stopped there, but definitely up. Actually, the climb to the highest point on the AT is one of the easiest to date. And, I didn't even make it to the tower. The bad weather that everyone was predicting did indeed roll in, exactly as forecast. Last night, at 2:30, the rain began its percussive drumbeat on the shelter roof. So my regrets over the inevitable sleepless night (b/c I never can sleep in the shelter) were somehwat apeased by the fact that not only did I remain dry, but I didn't have to pack up a wet tent. The shelter was surprisingly quiet overnight - only 2 intermittent snorers, one of whom was the section hiker who, as he squeezed in next to me, confidently said, "I don't snore." Harumpf. We were packed in there like sardines -- 16 or 17 of us. I rolled into Double Spring around 1pm, and people kept arriving up 'til about 8:30. And, we just squished over for every new arrival. The wind howled a constant chorus throughou the night, which lent the shelter an added impression of warmth and protection. It also made it extremely difficult to crawl out of the sleeping bag this morning. I was awake by 5, to dark skies, blustery winds, a spitting fog, and random raindrops spattering on the tin roof. I laid there, watching the sky gradually gain color. (I can't say I watched the dawn break, b/c I didn't glimpse the sun until this afternoon, when I descended 4000 fet into Gatlinburg, and out of the clouds.) I kept waiting for someone else to stir. And waiting. Finally, at 7:30, I couldn't wait any longer. (Nor could my bladder.) I bravely climbed out of the embracing comfort of the shelter, to face the elements... and discovered that it wasn't all that bad out there. Sure, it was foggy. And windy. But it wasn't horibly cold. At least, not yet!. Moose, G, and I had planned on hiking to Clingman's early, in order to hitch into town in time to hit the b-fast buffet. Well, the crummy weather sort of nixed that plan -- Who would be crazy enough to drive to the tower, just to see fog and views of white clouds? So, we chilled in the shelter, in an extremely leisurely fashion, until about 10; no one was in a rush to hit the trail this morning. We trudged through the clouds for 3 whole miles, enjoying fabulous views of absolutely nothing. But, this stretch was all alpine forest -- pines, firs, spruces. Quite a contrast, the limited visibility (aside from the fog) compared to the barren, leafless forests we've ben tromping through. And the smell? Ahh... A rocky (and somewhat muddy) ascent. I started up toward the tower, and saw Serenity, G, and Moose comin' on down. We trudged the half-mile down to the parking lot, and, amazingly, passed several families on their way up, some in shorts and T-shirts. We thought them insane, but were thankful for their insanity -- it offeredhope of hitching for us. Serenity approached every group, pleading for a ride into town. Our most promising offer in the first 10 minutes was the opportunity to borrow a German tourist's mountainbikes, and ride down into Gatlinburg -- 20 miles, on a bike, w/ a pack, in the rain, on slick roads? no thanks. Eventually, we no longer had to pretend to look cold and pitiful and miserable. B/c we were cold and pitiful and miserable. But then, an amazing family from Atlanta packed all 3 of us up (G scored a ride before we even reached the parking lot), and we crammed ourselves and our wet packs into the back of their van. The thermometer in their car registered 47 degrees at Newfound Gap. By the time we reached Gatlinburg, it was 72 and clear. We were dropped off at No Way Jose's (the Mexican restaurant w/ the famed foot-long burritos raved about by Nuge), so Moose could appease his 3-week long chips-and-salsa craving. Mmm mmm. Sooo good. And sooo much food. Right now, I'm hanging out in a cabin outside of town, rented by Spruce's parents -- a veritable hiker hostel here. Pool table, music, beer, good folks. Serenity even started a hiker box. What else is there?Bruce Spruce, Bruce Moose, Bassline, Touk, Gypsy Lulu, Red Hat, G, Serenity, Domino constitute the hiker crowd. Paula (Mother Spruce), Shelly, Philip, and Lindsey as well.