Date: 2015-07-24
From: Bearfence Mtn Hut

To: Rock Springs Hut
Miles today: 11.5
Weather: clear sky

Forgive me for not posting these journal entries earlier. Cell strength in the Nat'l Pk was poor to non-existent. Improved once I'd left the park, but now I'm behind. So, I'm working to catch up!Last Thursday I awakened at Bearfence Hut to the presence of visitors. Three deer were in camp, ostensibly to look for a handout. It was obvious from their behavior that other hikers had offered them food. I hoped that none of those hikers offered the same handout to bears in the area....... Recall there was a large group in our camp. Most of them young adults with little hiking or camping experience. As a couple brandished painful looking blisters to one another, I offered some friendly advice - and a couple of blister pads. It was well received.I was out of camp and on the trail towards Bearfence Mtn summit and scramble. Uphill again. The scramble is about a half mile loop on boulders and rocks around the summit. Offered fine views, but also the possibility of a broken ankle. Not something a solo hiker should risk - so I passed on the loop. I did take a peak at the view (pictured). Note the trail went straight up those boulders (blue blaze trail marker). A little scrambling was required to go on.My destination was Rock Springs Hut, about 11.5 miles hence. While walking thru the morning forest, I again marveled at the lack of bids singing. With no wind, if you stopped hiking the woods were dead still. Robert Service described that stillness as "a silence you most could hear." But he was referring to the silence in a wintertime environment.I brought up that issue (no birds) with other hikers along the way or in camp. All acknowledged it was strange upon reflection. All but one could provide no explanation. That will come later.I met three hikers that morning. Two were a British couple doing a thru-hike of the AT. The were heading south having just flip-flopped. They'd started in PA and gone north to Maine, then traveled back to where they'd started and headed south for Springer Mtn in GA. And they were wearing Teva Sandals with no toe covering! Shades of Jesus and Moses on the AT. When they mentioned going south, I mentioned "The Priest." I hiked 8 miles in the mountains that morning and early afternoon before arriving at Big Meadows. This is a Nat'l Pk Lodge and campground. It also has a wayside and store a little off the AT. A cheeseburger with all the trimmings and a blackberry milkshake beaconed! As I made my way to the front of the wayside grill, two backpacks were stacked on an outside picnic bench. I knew I'd be welcomed by my fellow travelers to share the table for lunch, so I threw my heavy pack next to them on the bench. Then out of the grill came Woody and his son, Stoner, both of whom had camped at Bearfence Hut the night before. It was a pleasant reunion, with all of us happy to see one another.During our feast at the picnic table I told my compatriots that I needed to go to the main lodge to access their WFi (which didn't work properly!). A couple at a nearby table offered a ride to the lodge and I accepted. Both people seemed very well educated from our conversation in the car. I brought up the lack of birds and singing. The man indicated the Nat'l Pk was a migratory way-station and that accounted for the lack of many birds. He also indicated it was past mating season so the few birds there had no reason to call to attract a mate or defend territory. Sounded plausible to me. Besides, what do I know - I'm a city boy.After my brig visit to the lodge, I hit the trail again. It was 3.5 more arduous miles to the Rock Springs Hut - mostly uphill. When I arrived, there was Woody and Stoner. They'd set up camp within eyeshot of the Hut (or shelter). We were joined by a young college student named Pack Mule.That evening I gave the fellows a stirring rendition of "The Shooting of Dan McGrew." None of them had ever heard or read that lengthy poem set in the Yukon gold rush days. I know I did well because I had gone over and over that poem in my head while hiking those long miles. I had needed a break from my other mental repetitions of the song Wagon Wheel by Darius what's-his-name.Not long after that "hiker midnight" was upon us - 9:00 pm. That is a standard in the trail. So we all turned in. I was alone in the hut as the others had chosen to tent or hammock camp. In the morning, both Woody and Stoner told me of a frightening story. The previous night both men were awakened by a large bear walking right thru their campsite - right between their two hammocks! Woody said he knew it was a large bear because he could feel the vibrations from each footfall of the bear. I said, "You mean like in Jurassic Park?" Woody said, "Exactly!" Pack mule had been camped some distance away, but confirmed hearing the bear rummaging around. They all looked at me and asked if I'd heard the bear. Heck, I had been closer to Woody and Stoner's site than Pack Mule. "Nope," I said. "I wear earplugs. Besides, I was dead tired and sound asleep. That bear could have crawled into the hut and kissed me and I'd have never known."