Date: 2004-09-04
From: Garfield Pond

To: Knees Getting Sore
Miles today: 11.2

While breaking camp this morning, a grey mist, pushed by the wind, advanced through the forest. I watched the lead edge of mist envelope my stealth site. The cloud ceiling had lowered; this indicated that the weather would be harsh at the higher elevations that I would be hiking to.After leaving the stealth site, I passed by the area where my French speaking neighbors were camping. Their campsite was not visible. Nice stealth technique!Almost immediately, I began ascending the steep and rocky slope of Mount Garfield (4,488 feet). There were dangerous spots along the way where I had to pull myself up with my hands. A slight drizzle dampened the rocks and made them slippery. From the start I felt tired because with the steep slope to climb, there was no chance to loosen up my muscles. The extra heavy load of food I was carrying must have also contributed to my lethargy.The open summit of Mount Garfield was a maelstrom of swirling mist and high winds. I took a photo and hustled back into the tree line where the wind was less severe.The descent of this steep mountain was also tricky. I sometimes tossed my wooden hiking sticks down a ways, freeing up my hands to grab objects of support like cracks in rocky facades, roots, or the trunks of trees.Late in the morning, I arrived at the AMC Galehead Hut. I went inside to replenish my water supply and eat a snack. I chatted with a section hiker named Jigsaw who was traveling southbound. He tipped me off about the existence of stealth camping sites seven miles up the trail. He also told me that stealth camping is not against the rules in The White Mountains, as long as a hiker sets up his campsite at least 200 feet away from the trail, or beyond view of the trail.Early in the afternoon, the sun began to burn through the overcast. It was a gradual process. As I ascended the upper slope of South Twin Mountain (4,902 feet), the sun would peek through and warm me up, then it would disappear and the cold would return. When I reached the summit, the mist was lifting and the surrounding mountains were visible. The scenery was great. I ate lunch on the summit of South Twin Mountain, sitting in a lee of the wind. I chatted with a weekend hiker who is aspiring to thru hike The Appalachian Trail. He said that I must be a fast hiker after traveling so far. That is a remark I have often been told by day hikers I meet. The truth is, I have been hiking slowly¢really slowly¢here in The White Mountains. The elevations are high and the slopes are usually rocky and steep. When descending these slopes, I have been carefully planting the tips of my wooden hiking sticks into the ground in front of me, or on rocks at my feet. Then I lean my weight into these sticks just before my feet hit the ground. This system eases the pressure on my knees. Ordinarily, I can travel at a decent pace using this system. But in these mountains, with the extra pressure on the knees, I am taking it slow on the descents.My knees are getting sore by the afternoons. I am feeling worn out. Part of the reason for those problems is the difficult terrain here in The White Mountains. Another reason, I suspect, is that my body is getting plain old tired from having walked 1,812 miles in the mountains. There are 352 miles remaining to reach Mount Katahdin in Maine. Late in the afternoon, I began seeking a stealth camping site after replenishing my water supply at the AMC-Zealand Falls Hut. Some thru hikers I knew had reserved work for stay slots at the hut.I hiked a short ways further and found a nice spot near a stream. I am lying in my hammock. My eyes are getting heavy. The time has come to shut off my headlamp and get some sleep.