Date: 2009-12-16
To: Now where was I -- oh yeah, Fontana Dam
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

Ok, with the Sanford Affair taken care of, my Editor firmly in her place, and my trip to Nairobi out of the way, I can finally return to my plans for getting from Springer Mountain to Damascus. When last seen, I was at Fontana Dam -- which means that the next section is: Fontana Dam to Gatlinburg (41 miles) -- which I expect to do in 3 days.The Smokey¢s are one of my favorite parts of the whole trail -- second only to the Whites of New Hampshire. Unlike my backyard (the Shenandoah¢s), they are truly a wilderness area. For example, when you hike the AT through the Shenandoah¢s, you cross the Skyline Drive something like 28 times in 104 miles ¢ so you're never more than a stone¢s throw from civilization. And, with all the camp grounds and lodges and wayside inns, you could pretty much chomp your way through the Park without taking a food bag along. Not so in the Smokey¢s. From the time you leave Fontana Dam until you reach Davenport Gap and hit Interstate 40, a distance of some 74 miles, you cross exactly one road ¢ the one that takes you into Gatlinburg. From mountain peaks, weather permitting, there is nothing but mountain tops and valleys as far as the eye can see. Awesome...Knowing how challenging it can be to haul someone out of the wilderness, I tend to be a lot more cautious, therefore, about starting up into the Smokey¢s than I do the Shenandoah¢s ¢ and I don¢t exactly mess around up here.For planning purposes, I allow from 5-7 days to get through the Smokey¢s. I did it in five days both times out, but I have not yet experienced the joy of hiking this section with snow and/or boot-sucking mud ¢ something my friends did in ¢05 while I was laid up in Robbinsville with a bum knee. In both cases also, I exited the park to spend the night in Gatlinburg, so my hike was actually a three day followed by a two day. Given the possibility of snow or just plain bad weather, however, you can¢t necessarily count on a hitch into town, and its way too far to walk. (If it snows, the road through the mountains may be closed.) For that reason, I pack six days worth of food when I leave Fontana Dam ¢ just as a precaution. My standard plan calls for:Fontana Dam to Spence Field Shelter (16 miles)Spence Field Shelter to Siler¢s Bald Shelter (12 miles) Siler¢s Bald Shelter to Gatlinburg (13 miles) The key to a five day trip is to get an early start on day one, climb the 2,100 feet up Shuckstack Mountain to the Mollies Ridge Shelter (11 miles) by early afternoon, take a break, and then keep going for two more shelters ¢ a total of 15.4 miles. The 11 miles up to Mollies Ridge are aided and abetted by the fact that it¢s also a horse trail ¢ as are most of the trails in the Park ¢ which means the grade is limited to about 8 degrees, and there are lots of switch-backs. In addition, by now, you¢ve mostly got your trail legs, having done over 150 miles in less than three weeks. What allows me to get to Spence Field, however, is the fact that the trail from Mollies Ridge to the next two shelters is essentially all ridge line walking ¢ flat and level. It¢s about 2.5 miles to the Russell¢s Field Shelter, which you can do in an hour or less, and where you could stop for the day if you really need to, but then it¢s only another 2.9 miles (an additional hour and a quarter) to get to the Spence Field Shelter. And that head start through the first leg of the Smokey¢s is what helps me get it done in five days. Caution: Day two is not all that much fun. In fact, its reputation (according to one of the Park¢s Ridge Runners) is that of one of the toughest 12 miles of the AT in the park. This section is not outstandingly bad or challenging ¢ just a whole lot of hiking up and down over rocks and roots, where it¢s impossible to get into a decent rhythm or to make any kind of decent time. This section is also home to the mountain made famous by a song ¢ ¢Rockytop¢ ¢ and it lives up to its name! After this particular section, however, the park is pretty much a joy to hike, so just get it done and be glad it¢s behind you. Day three takes you over Clingman¢s Dome ¢ the highest point on the entire trail. Take time to walk up the circular walk-way to the observation deck ¢ but take your jacket as the winds are impressive from the top. If the weather is good, the views are terrific, but all the dead trees (killed by a disease) can be a little depressing. After Clingman¢s, the AT is more downhill than uphill into the parking lot where the only major road crosses through the GSMNP. Because of my schedule, I¢ve always arrived there on a weekend, and haven¢t had trouble ¢yoggi¢ing¢ a ride into town, but I understand there¢s usually enough traffic during the week to catch a hitch as well.In Gatlinberg, I stay at the Grand Prix motel, just off the main drag (turn left at the first stoplight, and very near the local outfitters. There are lots of restaurants ¢ my personal favorite is a steak house with a fabulous (AYCE) salad bar! ¢ as well as several opportunities to resupply. I normally call for a shuttle for the next morning, since I want an early start and getting a hitch back to the trail is a bit more problematic at that time of day. Once back to the trailhead, however, you are in for one of the most awesome sections of the entire AT ¢ in my humble opinion.