Date: 2012-01-27
From: Double Spring Shelter

To: Newfound Gap
Miles today: 10.8
Weather: overcast clouds

The rain and the wind, especially the wind, continued all night. During that long and restless night I had decided that I would get off the Trail at Newfound Gap and head into Gatlinburg to dry out. Some of my gear was wet and some was just slightly damp from the mist in the air, and the temperature was forecast to drop well below freezing - not a good combination. So well before dawn I was up and packing. The rain stopped about the time I got up, and the wind died down some while I was getting ready, thank goodness. I had quite a way to go, and I didn't know rough it would be. I wanted to get to Newfound Gap early enough that I might be able to hitch a ride down to town. When I started off it was not raining, but as I went higher up towards Clingman's Dome the rain started again. After a little while it changed to ice pellets, then later still to snow. Visibility was somewhat limited but good enough for hiking. The rocks, logs, and roots became glazed with a very thin layer of ice - just enough to have to watch my footing. When I got to the turnoff for the Clingman's Dome road I turned off thinking to go check out the observation tower. When I got to the road I realized that even if I went on I wouldn't have any views given how low the clouds were. It wasn't whiteout conditions, but there sure wouldn't be anything to see. So I went back to the white blazes, my path to a hot shower. As I started down I discovered that all that rain was draining right down the Trail. In some places it was a few inches deep. In many places it was already freezing making the footing slippery. Fortunately it had stopped raining and snowing. At one place where the Trail made a close approach to the road there was a huge blowdown blocking the way. I ended up beating my way out to the road and around to discover that the Trail was a pool of water that must have been more than six inches deep. Thoughts of that hot shower and clean, dry clothes pushed me on up Mount Collins. I got to what seemed to be the height of land, but I didn't seen any sign indicating having reached the mountaintop. I followed the trail on down, but I couldn't see any white blazes. I knew that there would be a turnoff for a shelter and wondered if I had somehow gotten on that trail but couldn't remember seeing any other options. I went on slowly, looking carefully for blazes both in front of and behind me. No luck. Was I on the right trail or not? It certainly looked like a major trail but where in the blazes were the blazes? In the end I decided that there was just a shortage of white paint here, because it was the Trail. I passed the shelter turnoff and continued on while I pondered the eternal question - what did I want to have for dinner tonight? I wasn't sure what I wanted, but I was sure that whatever it was it wasn't freezedried. The day began to brighten, and as I descended there was less and less snow. But before the snow disappeared entirely I noticed southbound footprints and wondered where that hiker was. By the time I got to Indian Grave Gap, where the AT comes close to the Clingman's Dome Road, the sun had broken out. I paused at a roadside sign for a break. While I was relacing my boots I was startled to hear a voice behind me. A woman had emerged from the woods and come over to me. We exchanged a few pleasantries, and then she surprised me by asking, "Are you Second Stage?" Her trail name is Sycamore, and she'd been following me on TrailJournals. She hikes often in the park and had come over today hoping to meet me, which was very flattering. We chatted a while longer, and then she produced a tangerine and a box of blueberries for me. As tired as I was getting of trail food (a bad sign at only 10% of the way through) the fresh fruit was so delicious and unexpected. Fabulous. Then, to ensure her place in Trail Angel Heaven, she offered to walk with me to Newfound Gap, where her car was, and whisk me away down to Gatlinburg and deliver me to the motel of my choice. Incredible Trail Magic! While we were walking the almost 2 miles to the Gap we discussed, among other things, why people hike the Trail. She reminded me to notice the beauty around me while I walk. It was good advice as I tend to get my head down and try to make the miles instead of appreciating what is around me. I need to make a point to do that more often. As we approached the Gap Sycamore pointed out patchy streaks of white on the hillside opposite. They were places where the fog had been blowing up towards the Gap and had frozen on the trees.   I'm glad she was there to point them out as I probably would have missed the sight otherwise. We arrived at the parking lot which had a number of cars in it. After a photo op we got into her car. I settled into the seat with a heartfelt sigh. We talked all the way down to Gatlinburg. Sycamore dropped me off at a motel, and I checked in. A good bit of hot water later I emerged from my room in search of food. I walked down to Mellow Mushroom and had most of a pizza, bringing the rest of it back to the room with me. An hour later I polished off the last of it. So ended Day 4 of the Smokys. Tough, but manageable. Made more manageable by the kindness of a fellow hiker and Trail Angel. Thanks, again, Sycamore!