Date: 2016-05-15
From: Port Clinton, PA

To: Somewhere in Northern PA
Miles today: 0.0

The climb out of Port Clinton, like most climbs out of towns where I just spent time getting fat and happy, sucked. I climbed SLOW, pretending to take in views as I went. KT passed me, I passed her, and so on. At the top of the ridge, I stopped to clean up a campsite where someone had dumped days worth of trash in the fire ring. I heard a loud thump and some cursing- it was KT and somehow her hip belt had ripped off her pack. I offered up paracord and repair tape to help her get get pack back into semi working order, but it looked pretty uncomfortable. Fingers crossed for her, we continued on, passing each other on and off most of the day. The day before, I had received two very, very big pieces of news, and I spent the day mulling them over. First, one of my favorite people in the world, Brookie, got engaged to Nick. They're engagement story was hilarious and adorable, like most of their relationship, and I was-and still am- SO thrilled for them. But, my other piece of news was of the less celebratory variety. My dear friend and former colleague, Tom Jordan passed away. He was diagnosed with end stage lung cancer last year, only shortly after he moved to California to live the dream. Tom taught me a lot of things, not just about nursing, and I'm so sorry to lose him.All day long, I wavered between the exhilaration of the trail, excitement for Brooke, and overwhelming sadness for Tom and his family. Needless to say, it was a crazy day. The trail took us past a few incredible views; a rock outcropping called the Pulpit, another known as the pinnacle, where you could see for miles. They were ideal places to ponder the meaning of life and death, but they were also crowded with day hikers, college students enjoying their first day of summer break. The day ended at Eckville Shelter, a cabin behind a caretaker's home owned by one of the trail clubs. The shelter was full when I arrived, but there were great tenting sites. Roller was there already, KT apparently missed the turn and kept going. Seal Tree, one of the Young Puppies, was there, too, and we spent a while chatting. Eventually, the rest of the Pups rolled in, but I barely recognized them. They had all been to the barber in town and looked positively spiffy. Frost and I commiserated on our inability to grow beards. Everyone cooked dinner together, then began sharing snacks, since we were all fresh out of town with way too much food. I distributed Cadbury cream eggs, Doctor Trails shared taffy, then the caretakers began bringing out leftovers. Popsicles, then watermelon, tomatoes, carrots, and leftover veggie burgers. The entire crowd in the shelter had already called it a night, so just Roller, myself, and the Young Pups were reaping the benefits of this bounty. Finally, the caretakers emerged with a half empty bottle of cava, which we happily distributed amongst the 6 of us, drinking out of our collapsible silicone mugs or metal cups that always vaguely tasted and smelled like instant coffee. Let's just say it was a great night.The next day, like many of the days before it, involved lots of rocks, a bit of trash, and not much else. I stopped at a shelter with a good sized group to eat lunch. It was misty and cold and I stalled at the shelter for far too long, reading another found John Grisham novel. After a few chapters, I dragged myself out of the shelter and onward.The afternoon included an awkward encounter with a heavily armed man outside a shuttered B&B and a section of trail appropriately named Knife's Edge. It ended at a shelter where we met fellow flip floppers Lois & Clarke, Towtruck, and Ziptie. They call themselves The Slackers and take every blue blaze they come across. As a result, I don't think they've ever hiked more than 10 miles in a day, but they were friendly and a lot of fun. Roller and I took the shelter, which was easily 80 years old and rumored to also host a belligerent porcupine, though we never met him, while KT and The Slackers tented.The next day, we were headed to Palmerton to do a small resupply. Palmerton is a dreadful little town, much like the last few I've been through, though it also has the unique distinction of being an EPA Superfund site.The area around Palmerton has been so heavily polluted by zinc mining and refineries that the water is undrinkable and the hillsides deforested. The EPA has been attempting to regrow the forest on the ridgeline for 30 years, with next to no success. It's charming.We caught a hitch on a busy highway from a middle aged woman in a Prius who said she felt obligated to pick us up but was clearly miffed by said obligation. We didn't care. A ride is a ride. When she dropped us off, she warned us ominously, "This is coal country. People aren't nice here."Duly noted, thank you, ma'am.After a burger, a resupply at a gas station, and a conversation with a meth head, Roller and I again ran into KT. The three of us agreed to hike out on the blue blazed winter trail, which would save us a mile of bouldering up the infamous nightmare of the Superfund site.We trekked through a hazardous waste disposal area with a sign reading "you're in America now, please speak English" and began the long painful series of switchbacks up to the summit. The trail looked like high desert, just scraggly brush, rock, and sand. Our informal trio cursed and panted our way to the top, happy to hit the relatively manageable ridgeline trail. Through the stunted pines were spectacular views of rolling hills in the distance, with the zinc refinery chugging away in the foreground, of course.We stealth camped that night, at a site above a ski resort five miles past the Superfund site. The water was scarce and probably heavily polluted, and the AT punched us in the face with another rocky uphill scramble right at the end, but our site was nice and we'd have sunrise views in the morning.....I slept right on through the sunrise. Didn't even get out of the hammock until almost 8. Packed up slowly, but KT was slower, so I didn't feel bad about Roller leaving me in the dust. The trail that day included a handful of scenic views. I enjoy peeing in places with nice scenery (don't worry, I make sure I'm well hidden, I'm not a creepy exhibitionist). I startled a big old turkey (not a euphemism). I listened to a few podcasts. Honestly, my memory is a little hazy. Sometimes the trail is boring...