Date: 2003-08-17
From: Ethan Pond

To: Lake in the Clouds AMC Hut
Miles today: 14.1
Weather: overcast clouds

What an extraordinary day!! On the trail by 6:30 today after a good night's rest. Niel the Scott left a few minutes before me but I never quite caught up with him. Around 9 a.m. large numbers of day hikers started to pass me as they hiked south to the Zealand Hut.When I reached Route 302 at Crawford Notch, I found my cache of food hanging from a tree undisturbed. After sorting through my supplies, I decided to eat a second breakfast of freezed dried Spanish omelet to fortify me for the long climb up Webster Cliffs - about 3,000' increase in elevation. While I cooked, a ways from the road, I saw Gazer walk by and two day hikers headed for Mitzpah Hut. The climb out of Crawford Notch was steady with three difficult rock scrambles. The summit of Mt. Webster gave me my first clear view of the Presidentials. Clouds obscured Mt. Washington but to the south I could follow the path of the Saco River out of Crawford Notch. The trail then led through a dense beautiful boreal forest and I was able to call up a Boreal Chicakadee and a Canada Jay.I reached Mitzpah Hut at 1:30 and was able to get some fresh baked bread and lemonade. Since the day was cool, rain showers predicted and there was 6 more hours of daylight, I decided to hike on to the Lake of the Clouds Hut and take my chances with getting shelter.The hike from Mitzpah to Lake of the Clouds was awe inspiring. When I got above the treeline, the wind picked up and a light rain began to fall. As the temperature dropped, I finally put on my rain jacket and resigned myself to wet feet and mud. However, my discomfort was minor and tempered by the beauty of watching clouds roll over the ridgeline. Occasionally, Mt Eisenhower stood looming in the distance but most often it was obscured by clouds. To the east the Dry River Wilderness and the mountains of Maine stood blue and imposing. Clouds rolled by and the light changed constantly. Moving on, I climbed Mt Franklin but decided to not climb to the summit of Mt. Monroe. As I rounded Mt Monroe, Washington slowly became visible but the towers at the summit were obscured.In every direction the scene was mystical and rugged. I had forgotten how extraordinary the White Mountains are especially in windy, damp weather. What a special place this is. Indeed, it is even more special because of the effort that is needed to get here. For much of this hike today, I felt especially priviledged to be here and to see this beautiful, wonderful place. Words fail me to describe my feelings for these mountains.By 4:15 I could see the Lake of the Clouds Hut. When I arrived, I was soon greeted by Jan LiteShoe and Chief who had arrived much earlier and registered as "Guests". After seeing what the sleeping possibility was I decided to use my "one night in a hut" and also registered as a full paying guest. After paying $69 I found myself in a room with 15 bunks and the promise of a hearty dinner and breakfast. Now I could experience a night in an AMC hut.Indeed the dinner was excellent and the food was plentiful. The hut has over 100 people...many of whom are children about 10 years old. The place has the feel of a summer camp for families. Some of the people rode to the top of Washington and walked 1.5 miles down the slope of Washington to the hut.After dinner the crew of thru hikers working for a free night of lodging cleared the tables and a few of the "guests" went outside to see the classic sunset. There was a bright red sun, occasionally obscured by clouds and as the light faded, lights in the valley below began to twinkle. To the east, clouds blew over the ridgeline and fog occasionally blew over the hut.Tomorrow my plan will be to first hike to Washington and try to get new batteries for the camera. Unfortunately, I have not been able to take pictures during the journey through the Whites. From Washington, I will follow the trail around the Great Gulf Wilderness to the Osgood Tentsite about ten miles from the hut. There will be a lot of ups and downs but the distance seems reasonable. This will allow me to reach Pinkham Notch by Tuesday afternoon. Hope the weather is good.There is beer and wine flowing tonight. Can't believe it will quiet down at 9:30.