Date: 2020-07-01
From: Damascus

To: Thomas Knob Shelter
Miles today: 28.1
Weather: light rain

We had a late morning start, after a hearty breakfast at the Damascus Diner. I didn't think I would eat much after two dinners last night, one at the Wicked Chicken and one cooked up at the hostel using steaks bought by one of the other guests. But I demolished the hiker special again. We took the Virginia Creeper trail out of town for about 14 miles instead of following the AT. The Creeper trail is not only level, it follows the Holston River through a peaceful valley rather than jouncing up and over viewless hills far above the water as the AT does. Rivelets of water sprinkled over sheer cliffs into the river. This old railroad bed crossed the river at least a dozen times on wooden and at least one iron girder bridge. Scores of cyclists passed us, riding the seventeen miles downhill to Damascus from the eastern end of the trail. Shuttlers in Damascus drop them off in the morning.Taking an alternate route is known as "blue-blazing" and is frowned upon by some hikers who follow only the official white blazes. And in fact the ATC only recognizes hikers who have made an effort to walk the entire official trail. I did exactly that when I section hiked the trail. But having seen every white blaze I am now quite open to exploring alternate and perhaps more scenic routes. Among long trails, the AT is unique in focusing on a single path to completion. Other long trails have many alternates, sometimes imposed by closures or forest fires. What ties it together is a continuous line of footsteps from beginning to end. Though of course ultimately it's up to each hiker to decide what a thruhike means to him.About halfway along the Creeper Trail we passed through the hamlet of Taylor's Valley and were surprised to find a railroad car with a porch built in front and housing gym equipment for the community. They repurposed an old "camp car" originally used to house railroad maintenance workers when there was no motel in the area. The community also has a small cafe aimed at the cyclist traffic. An OPEN sign was set up next to the trail, so we walked over eagerly hoping for the milkshake I missed in Damascus. Sadly the cafe was closed. A man was mowing the picnic lawn around it. Many bikers came through excitedly only to be similarly disappointed.I left the Creeper Trail where it again intersected the AT and hiked two miles up to Lost Mountain Shelter. There a section hiker was drying out his tent and clothing from last evening's storm. He's out for a month, but might come back to try to go all the way this year. First he has to help his son move in to the University of Kentucky, where he's pursuing a pharmacy degree.Sunshine and I had planned to stop here, a sixteen mile day, because the next shelter was another thirteen miles. But it was only 2:30 and the weather was beautiful so we decided to hike up to Whitetop Mountain with its open summit. In fact the weather was nearly perfect. Sunny, partly cloudy, drying up, occasional breezes. It was a bit warm in the sun, something I haven't had to deal with much in the last month, and I sweated profusely climbing hills. But it was glorious not walking in a cloud, not being poured on, and not having soaked feet.So I climbed up 2000 feet to Buzzard Rocks on Whitetop's bald summit. There was a dayhiker enjoying the grand southern view of blue mountains. It was the lawnmower guy from the cafe! He'd driven his Jeep up to a nearby trailhead to take in the view as he often does. He apologized that Wednesdays were the only day the cafe was closed. He pointed out a peak to the southwest, Pond Mountain, that separates Virginia, North Carolina and Tennessee. A doctor built a house up there over thirty years ago accessible only by helicopter and with stunning views. But according to our friend the doctor ironically went blind. When he died the back taxes caused his children to give it up to the state of North Carolina. And it was subsequently plundered and damaged by looters and vandals.It was almost 6 pm, but rather than tent on the bald we decided to push 7 more miles to Thomas Knob shelter. Mostly to get to Marion a little earlier on Friday for an easier resupply. Thomas Knob also sits on a bald, a side of Mt. Rogers.On the way up Mt. Rogers I noticed a deer a few yards away. She didn't startle. I stopped cold, stood perfectly still, and watched. She stared back, occasionally shifting and peering around. I wonder what she thought of this two-legged creature just watching her? She never spooked, but eventually decided I was not a threat and went back to searching for food.As I broke out of the trees I climbed into a pastel sunset over open meadows on the western slopes of Mt Rogers. Puffy strato-cumulus clouds glowed pink and orange. A three-quarters full moon floated above, waiting for its turn to set.Several thruhikers were already in their hammocks near Thomas Knob Shelter, though only Thor, a Tennessean who started in March and took a few weeks off, was still up and finishing dinner. Sunshine and I had the two-story shelter to ourselves.A very friendly pony visited us as we finished dinner and darkness was setting in. She wanted to lick my hands and legs for the salt. She was quite persistent and eventually we had to shoo her away to get our food stored properly. This area has a history of problem bears. The bear box was several minutes walk away, over a fence and in a clearing full of ponies grazing on grass. A young foal was among them. As I write this my pony friend has returned. She is licking some stray water bottles on the picnic table outside the shelter, and knocking over all the trekking poles to lick their salty handles. Now she's gone over to see what goodies the hammockers have. I have a feeling I'll be hearing more from her tonight.