Date: 2013-09-07
From: Lakes of the Clouds Hut

To: Osgood Tent Site
Miles today: 10.1

Ever since I decided to hike the AT, I'd been worried about summitting Mt Washington, which has a reputation for the worst weather and the highest recorded wind speed (231 mph) on earth. I'd heard crazy stories of the weather suddenly changing, people losing their way in the fog, getting hypothermia and dying. So my worries were not unfounded. But of course, the weather was great. When we got up to the summit, a computer told us the temp was 47 degrees and the windspeed was 47 mph. We could even see a band of yellow on the horizon, which was the ocean and I'm told is only visible about 10 times a year. If there's one lesson the trail has been trying to drill into me, it's that worrying is a huge waste of emotional energy. After a photo on the summit, I went into the Observatory and, like all the other thru-hikers there, treated myself to fresh food from the cafeteria. The place was a zoo of tourists who came up on the cog railroad. I was excited to see Punkin, who had driven up to the summit in her car to meet Hamster who was hiking up from Crawford Notch. But she had bad news: a family member was dying and so she and Hamster were going to finish their hike at the Maine border. I was very sad to hear that but glad that I got the opportunity to say goodbye--and I thanked her again for all the trail magic she provided!After too much time in the Observatory (just like town, it sucks you in!), I headed down the ridge to Madison Springs Hut. It was 4:30 when I arrived and I was tired and worried about the storm that seemed to be approaching quickly on the horizon, so I inquired about a work-for-stay, but the hutmaster said I had to keep going. Apparently, I found out later, too many hikers had come through at the same time and he didn't want to decide who could stay, so he told everyone to keep hiking on to one of the campsites. So, I grudgingly moved on. The trail up til then had been somewhat rocky, but manageable. The climb over Mt Madison, however, was scary, just as Maw-ee had warned. Suddenly the wind picked up speed (later I found out it was gusting to 70 mph) and I found myself fighting hard not to not fall onto the sharp, rough boulders which were scattered haphazardly over the mountain. I kept thinking of SIS, who fell on the rocks in PA and fractured her sacrum. Because I was the last of the hikers to leave the hut, I was alone and afraid I would fall and hurt myself and no one would be there to help me. So imagine my relief and surprise when I saw Ahvoh coming up the mountain. Apparently he had lost the trail. I didn't want to let him get away, so I asked him for a favor. "Sure, if you tell me you love me I'll do anything!" he said with grin. I rolled my eyes. "Okay, I love you...as a friend! Now, please don't let me get too far behind you!" And stayed near me, holding my hand in tricky spots so I wouldn't fall, helping me make our way down the mountain. At one point I fell, landing on my butt which, of course, reminded me of SIS. Thankfully I didn't hurt myself, but it did instill in me once again the fact that completing a thru-hike is as much dumb luck (or grace) as it is determination and ability. Once we got below treeline the trail was much easier but we still had a long, steep decent down to Osgood tent site. When we arrived it was nearly dark and about to rain, but Zeus had bad news. The whole camp was full. My heart sank. I was exhausted. The last thing I wanted to do was to try to find a stealth site--if I could even find one in that rocky area--and put up my tent in the rain. I saw Fat Man Walking, who arrived early enough to find a spot, and told him I would hike on. But before I had gone 100 feet I heard someone yell, "Poppins!!!" It was Mooch. I went back and when we met, he said, "Hey, it's going to rain and the stealth spots are probably all going to be taken, but I have my tent up already. It's not in a great spot and it's going to be tight as it's a one and a half person tent, but you're welcome to stay with me if you don't want to put up your tent in the rain." I considered his offer, appreciative, but wary, quickly going over the questions that flooded my mind. Was he just being a nice friend or did he have ulterior motives? Would my reputation forever be tarnished if I accepted? Would he keep his hands off me? I knew he liked me but I also remember Fat Man Walking saying that he thought Mooch was the nicest, most self-less, person he had met on the trail. In the end my conclusion was, screw what people think--I'm exhausted. So I reluctantly agreed, but not without saying, "You know nothing's going to happen, right?!" He smiled and said, "Are you going to thank me or not?" And I apologized, thanking him for his thoughtfulness. It started raining so Fat Man Walking let us cook dinner under his tarp while we exchanged stories (and complained about the hutmaster) and then headed to bed. It was a little tight but Mooch was totally honorable and I was so glad I accepted.