Date: 2017-06-27
From: David Lesser Memorial Shelter Tent Site 

To: Harpers Ferry, West Virginia 
Miles today: 9.3
Weather: overcast clouds

6/27David Lesser Memorial Shelter Tent Site to Harpers Ferry, West Virginia9.3 miles Total miles: 1023.7Note: I recently uploaded photos from Front Royal to Harpers Ferry.I was up at 5:00 this morning, because we wanted to get into Harpers Ferry as soon as possible. We had 9.3 miles to go and hoped for good trail.  On that score, we were sorely disappointed (pun intended).  Much of the trail today was very rocky and hard to traverse. We persevered, although I did trip and fall once. Fortunately, I was able to twist to the side so I landed on my left elbow and hip and was unscathed.  Like before, it was in an area with fewer rocks, and I missed seeing the one that caught me. The trail remained challenging after we passed into Harpers Ferry National Historical Park.  In fact, it was still difficult after crossing the Shenandoah River via the US 340 bridge.  I saw a doe on the trail past the bridge, just a few hundred yards from the side trail to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy building.  There were numerous piles of bear scat on the trail to within less than a half mile of the river.  The raspberries are ripening, and the bears are eating their share. I even detected a musky odor in the air around a fresh pile of scat, but no sightings.  I mentioned to Gravity that with trail conditions as rough and rocky as they were, if you spent time looking for a bear, you would soon be looking for an ambulance, as attention needed to be given to every step.  There is exciting news about another bear sighting, however. While at Dick's Dome/Whiskey Hollow Gap, I discussed bears with some fellow hikers and explained about my possible role as a Bear Summoner. I asked them to let me know if they saw a bear, and, sure enough, I received a reply from Cathy in my guest book that they had indeed seen a bear after talking with me.  Coincidence? One can never be sure. Thank you, Cathy from Boston for getting back with me and letting me know!  Back to the trail, Gravity and I took the side trail to the ATC and made it there before noon.  Kim had just arrived.  It was quite an experience getting my official photo taken in front of the ATC building and placing it in the registry book.  My Harpers Ferry number is 1175.  My number at the beginning of my hike was 1621, so I guess I am moving up in the world. I spent some time at ATC looking at the exhibits and letting the reality that I had gotten this far soak in.  While at the center, I saw Chris, who I have known now for over a month. We frequently camp at the same place or he passes me along the trail.  Chris is a very knowledgeable backpacker and outdoorsman and is chronicling his AT journey on his YouTube channel, "Chris Goes Outdoors." Chris is an accomplished videographer, as well as a really nice guy, and his channel is well worth a look.  I have also decided that the ATC center also now holds the honor of nicest privy.  In a cute touch, there is a blue blaze and privy sign pointing to the restroom.  After signing the registry, Gravity and Kim drove me to the Town's Inn, located in the heart of Lower Town.  I was able to reserve a room in the hostel. The Town's End is owned and operated by Karen, who is delightful and very helpful in getting things arranged so I could stay.  She got a phone call before I could register, so she gave me the key on a handshake that I would return, so that Gravity and Kim (who, by necessity, were circling the block) would not have to wait.  We then drove to Wal-Mart to resupply for the three days it will take to get to Waynesboro, PA.  After eating lunch at an A&W/Long John Silvers, Gravity and Kim dropped me back off at the hostel. I have a quaint room that I am sharing with Mechanic. I unpacked, showered, and left my clothes to be laundered before heading into town to explore a bit.  I also made it to the Post Office (thanks to a very kind gentleman in a Ford Ranger even older than mine) who offered me a lift.  I picked up a care package sent to me from Beau's parents, Sue and Kim. There were goodies of all kinds; you could tell they have an excellent grasp on what a long distance hiker might want in a care package.  The snacks are already almost gone, and Mechanic and I toasted the trail and trail angels like Sue and Kim with the Single Malt Scotch and Fireball.  Thank you, Trail Angels from Providence!  Mechanic and I also shared dinner at the Coach House Grill and Bar across the street from the hostel.  The food and service were first rate, as I continued to make up any calorie deficit from the trail.  After dinner, I spent a quiet hour sitting on the porch, enjoying the breeze, watching the people, and uploading photos for my journal.  Hiker midnight still called at 9:30, and I slept a few hours before awakening to write this.  I am very excited about my zero day tomorrow.  I plan on rising early, eating breakfast at the cafe upstairs, and spending the rest of the day exploring the history of Harpers Ferry.Note: Colleen, a dear friend from the Evanston days of my youth, recently asked me about my diet on the trail. I thought I would write a bit about what it takes to feed your body while asking it to put forth the effort that a thru hike over rigorous terrain requires.  First, a disclaimer.  This is what I have found to work so far, and my food decisions continue to develop. Everyone is different.  I have met many vegetarians and a few vegans who are doing just fine.  The challenge, of course, is balancing caloric needs with food weight, since food is the single heaviest item in your pack.  The longest I have gone between resupply is six days. At around two pounds of food per day, that makes for a heavy load.  I have lost twenty pounds from my body since I started,  but I purposely started fifteen pounds heavier than the weight I like to be when I am training for a marathon.  I started at 185 and now weigh 165 pounds.  I have lost several inches from my waist, but I in no way look thin.  My first food rule is to never turn down food that is offered if you don't have to carry it. I seldom feel hungry, but I can always eat.  Thru hiking requires lots of energy, so I look for foods that provide the greatest amount of calories per ounce. It's important to find foods you like, because choking down food you don't like is never fun.  That being said, if I'm looking at granola bars, for instance, and one has ten more calories than the other, I choose the one with higher calories.  For me, protein and fiber are secondary to calories, both carbs and fats. This is not a way you want to eat for the long haul, but it has gotten me this far. Here is a typical menu for a day on the trail.  Breakfast: one Clif Bar with nut filling, one Kind bar, and one Little Debbie fudge brownie.  Snacks (eaten throughout the day): two Snickers bars, one Luna bar, one trail mix granola bar, one Special K protein bar, and one small bag of peanuts or almonds.  Lunch: one Spam single, two string cheeses, one large flour tortilla, one two-bar pack of Little Debbie Nutty Buddy bars, one Little Debbie fig bar, two Slim Jim and Cheeses, one pack of peanut butter crackers, and one small box of raisins. Supper: one Knorr pouched meal (I try all kinds to mix things up a bit), one mayonnaise packet (to add fat), and one Nutrigrain bar. I welcome any comments or suggestions, as there are as many hiker diets as there are hikers, and I am always willing to try (most) new things.