Date: 2003-06-19
From: Bake Oven Knob Shelter

To: Palmerton
Miles today: 7.4

Itchy and I left very early this morning, right at first light. The rocks weren't too terrible, and we make decent time.Before the last shelter, we came upon signs warning us not to drink the water. The land was poisoned by emissions from a zinc smelter long shut down. The smog killed many trees. We walked thru an "alpine" area, an area bare of trees. It was quite beautiful. The low scrub was flowering fuchsia. The mountain laurel, low and compact, was blooming cotton candy pink and white.We passed the last shelter with its honey of a spring - tested safe, according to health officials - and start the track down to the Trailhead. We walk a bridge over the wide Lehigh river and come to a traffic light. The road down to Palmerton looked busy, filled with impatient morning drivers. No sooner were the words "Itchy, this looks like a hard hitch," out of my mouth than I caught the eye of a nearby van driver, who was smiling at me. I pointed to us, she nodded yes. Hallelujah!We ride into town with Betty. She smushes us in her van with two other patient passengers. Itchy's pack is jamming me against the teenaged boy on my left. I can't breathe, but I am delighted to be driven.Betty points out the local sites, including the florist. "Used to be my flower shop, now it's my daughter's." She even offers us a stay at her house, but, being a traditionalist, I want to spend the night in jail.Betty drops us at the borough hall. We sign into "the jailhouse hostel," a free stay. This is a smart move on Palmerton's part, embracing the scruffy strangers who wander into its midst, a win-win. They keep the potential trouble makers right under their noses, we get a shower and a dry bunk. While we are waiting, another resident offers us a place to stay. Friendly town! They also hand us a welcome package - a free 5 minute calling card with a picture of the town on it, a stamped postcard, some shampoo, a pack of Advil. REALLY friendly town, Palmerton!I shower. When I return, my friend Trooper has shown up again. He is chatting with Itchy Foot about Ben's fall and broken wrist. Trooper leaves another note for Hotdog in the jailhouse register.Trooper is preparing to walk the Long Trail this August, and was interested in my camera. I go to show it to him and crack my head on the top bunk so hard I see stars. Ouch!As for my camera... it's gone! The zippered pouch was open. No one but Itchy was around while I showered, and I last used it at the Trailhead to snap a photo of him bending over his pack. So, it was between there and here.I was distressed. I loved that little camera. The Cannon Powershot has done all I've wanted it to do, and more. I've even dropped the thing (not recommended). But there was no sense going to pieces, I had to retrace my steps.Trooper has wheels, and drives me back to the Trailhead. I rewalk the route, but no camera. Meanwhile, the woman at the jail has taken the slim info I've given her - van driver Betty, mother of the local florist - and has tracked down my camera. Good woman! It had fallen out in the van seat during the crowded conditions.We go to breakfast at Berts, do laundry, small chores. I have a dull headache and neckache - from the whack on the head I gave myself? Dehydrated? We then drive through hellacious traffic to Delaware Water Gap - we will walk there late Saturday, and would lose a day and more waiting for the PO to open. The ride from Trooper lets us get this drop early and leave it at the famous Church of the Mountain hiker hostel.While there, I see Home Run and Drifter, who says I've lost weight. I don't think I have. I DO have a muscle on the insides of my knees that I'd never had before, and more calves, but that's about it. I felt I had more body changes on the shorter but tougher Long Trail. But then, I've been eating mighty good on the AT.I also meet Trail Name Pending, a hiker who had called me when I lost my jacket and ID back in early Virginia. He'd offered to bring my lost jacket forward. I can thank him in person.We drive back past the Martin guitar factory to a supper of burgers and malted milks at the local ice cream fountain. Urp! I collect my camera from the police hall, thank you Palmerton.The finale was a trip to the rocks above town, to scout the dramatic, stony Trail we would walking up tomorrow. I'd heard about this trek up from Lehigh Gap for quite some time now. It included some Class III climbing, hand over hand, with heavy packs. Trooper had done it, and promised to hang around long enough to get us safely to the top tomorrow.The rocky outline of the denuded, scoured stone looked dramatic, something from out west. The cracked rock was naked, no trees or vegetation. I take pictures.The views up here were great. From a protruding rock, we watched the clouds roll in and out over the gap, and the rain fall to the north. Far below, the Lehigh River ran past a sweet little stone house and outbuilding. It all looked so innocent and peaceful.Tomorrow, we would climb up this cracked stone mountain.