Date: 2021-08-13
From: south of Mount Webster

To: Osgood Ridge
Miles today: 17.3
Weather: overcast clouds

Today was one of the most difficult, stressful, painful, amazing, spectacular, fulfilling days of my life.Got up super early this morning and was on trail 45 minutes before sunrise. This section is mostly above tree line and completely exposed to the elements; I wanted to get past Mount Washington before any afternoon thunderstorms hit.The first half mile was a steep rock scramble up Webster Cliffs. It was so early I had to use my headlamp to see. There were frequent views on the left, two thousand feet down to the bottom of the Notch, where I ate yesterday. Thankfully the wind was blowing from the left, so I didn¢t have to worry about a gust pushing me over the edge. As I neared the top, I entered a thick fog. Reached the top in about 45 minutes ( for half a mile!).The trail then mostly leveled out for the next few miles, passing over Mt. Jackson and reaching Mizpah Hut. I stopped here to refill my water and make use of the facilities. Then the trail climbed steeply up to tree line. By this time the fog had burned off, and I could see Washington ahead, cloudless. Washington is infamous for its bad weather, and is rarely not covered in clouds. I was excited by the thought of having views from the summit of Washington, so pushed myself faster.Now above tree line, the trail was a jumble of rocks, where every foot step had to be planned carefully, lest I twist an ankle or fall on my face. The trail continued steadily upward, passing over some mountains, around others.Then past Lakes of the Clouds hut, and up the final ascent to Washington. There was no specific trail, just a jumble of rocks marked by the occasional cairn. This is the kind of climb where you half expect to encounter Gollum near the top.It was eleven now, and I was already running out of gas. The trail was hard, and it was hot on the exposed mountainside, without a cloud in sight. Hot and sunny, also windless, at the peak of Mount Washington? Weird.Finally reached the top, where I was met with several buildings, a parking lot, and way too many tourists (there is a road that leads to the top of the mountain, as well as a cog railroad).Mount Washington¢s summit has an observatory, a museum, gift shop, and cafeteria. It¢s the cafeteria I was most interested in. I had planned on getting some hot chocolate there, assuming I would have been cold from the climb, but I was hot and sweaty from the unexpectedly warm day. I did get some ice cream, pizza, soda, and lots of snacks. I spent awhile looking out at the landscape, marveling at the complete lack of clouds. Someone had told me that Mount Washington only gets 40 sunny days a year. Lucky me.This weekend is also when the ¢Race to the Clouds¢ is held, which is auto racing up the road to the summit. I had heard the cars engines all morning as I had climbed toward the summit, and now I watched as the cars raced to the top and then went back down.Now it¢s time to head down from the summit. I¢m already sore from this morning¢s hike, and every step downhill is painful. I pass by the cog railroad as several trains pass by, where several hikers continue the (really stupid) tradition of mooning the trains as they go by.Now as I pass Mounts Clay and Jefferson, I¢m starting to get worried about the sun. I have a hat to protect my head and neck, but my arms are exposed. It¢s too warm to wear anything long sleeved and I don¢t have any sunscreen. I tried to find some at the summit, but they are sold out. I start to take breaks in the shade, trying to avoid getting sunburned.The day passes on as I hike around the Adams¢ mountains, and down to Madison Spring Hut. From there, it¢s a very steep climb up Mount Madison. The ¢trail¢ is very steep, requiring hands to scramble up the rocks. It¢s very exposed this high up, and falling would be very bad.Finally at the summit of Mount Madison. I have amazing views of everything I crossed today, and I can see the Wildcat and Carter ranges, which I will cross over the next two days.Then down off Madison. I really want to stop hiking now, my legs really hurt, but I have to get below tree line. This descent is one that thru hikers talk about. Super steep, totally exposed, lots of rock hopping. It¢s slow going, but I eventually make it down to tree line. Shortly after that, I find a campsite, set up my tent, eat some snacks, and fall right asleep. I don¢t bother with getting under the quilt, as I¢m sure the heat from my sunburned arms will keep me warm.Happiness is crossing the Presidentials again, on a beautiful day.