Date: 2014-05-08
From: Audie Murphy Memorial

To: 4 Pines Hostel
Miles today: 11.7
Weather: clear sky

Easy walk out and past Pickle Branch Shelter. Then the fun started. The next 6.5 miles involved the most technical rock climing of boulders, cliffs and stone monoliths I've experienced so far. Even more so than the exposed ridge back in the Smokies where they had an alternative bad weather trail! Several times I had to stop and use hand holds or toe grips to catch a hand or toe hold in order to climb up or down a boulder or stone slab. It was fun in that it was a challenge but in the heat of the dy I was glad I camelled up on water at the botton and brought plenty with me to the top. I got to the first big view at mm 695,5 with a view of the valley and ridge lines from the day before. It really strikes you when you look back and see the ground you covered and think about the early settlers and wonder how they did what they did except with persaverance. It really gives you a different perspective and understanding that a book can't give you. Gray Ghost caught up with me while I was hanging out enjoying the view. He is having some problems with medication which is causing him dizziness. We hung out for a while longer and he drank some more water before we headed out for the "Dragon's Tooth" a mile and a half away. Again we had more technical climbs and decents along a very narrow ridgeline. At times it was grueling and nerve racking to say the least especially with the heat. We finally made it to the Dragon's Tooth which is a hugh monolithic stone over 75 feet in the air and you have to climb and crawl up the side to get to the top of this jagged piece of rock using various foot and hand holds that you can find and wedging yourself up between rock walls and shiming yourself up and finally crawling up on all fours to the very top. To say it was exhilirating and scary would be an understatement. The climb, the view and the realization that now I had to go down backwards from where I came put me on alert knowing that one mistep could cause me to fall and get seriously hurt or worse. This was all part of the rush. Yet since I am typing this you know I did make it back down safely. Gray Ghost had passed on the climb and headed down so now I moved out to catch up with him. I thought I would easily catch him going downhill but the ruggedness of the mountain got even more challenging requiring the use of bolted steel holds bolted into the rock for hikers to hold on to. It was like this for the next 2 miles at which time I was able to catch up with Gray Ghost. About half way down from there he slipped on some rocks and I could tell he was still having a tough time. But he shrugged it off, drank some more water and continued on down the hill until we got to the road to the hostel. Fortunately there was a creek there and he was able to drink some more water and rest before we headed the .3 miles up hill to the hostel. AYCE and Mack, Trail Light, DaVinci, Dirty Harry and Fran, Bismark and Hopper, Murphy, Sprout, Fiber One and others were there. Took a shower and decided to move up to the chicken/alpaca/equipment barn when I heard that Sprout and Fran who were sick were sleeping in the garage. Snacked on some food that Joe had available and rehydrated drinking well water. Played cornhole (bean bag tossing into a circle on a wooden platform) while we waited to go to the All You Can Eat family style restaurant called the Home Place. While we were waiting Joe gave a group of us a ride into town where I got some Gatorade and ice cream cone and others got snacks and beer. When we got back Heart Wood had just hiked in and looked spent so I gave her one of my drinks. We finally got to go to the restaurant and packed 11 people in a seven passenger van with a cracked windshield and suspect brakes. When we pulled up the place was PACKED! It was "reading day" for the Virginia Tech college students when they were suppose to be studying for finals that were starting the next day. Instead they have a tradition of coming here to eat. Priorities I guess. We waited an hour and a half before we were finally seated. They served us country fried chicken, roast beef, pulled pork, baked beans, green beans, coleslaw, homemade whipped potatoes, rolls and pepper gravy. For the next hour everytime a bowl of something was empty they would bring out another bowl. Once they started it was all a blur after that until I was full and had some coffee and homemade peach cobbler. We had literally inhaled our food and ordinarily would have been a bit embarassed of our behavior, but being AT thru hikers they understood and actually took some satisfaction in keeping up with us. What was really amazing that about 2 hours later around 11 pm I could have gone back and done the same thing again! This appetite is something I've never experienced before and hope I can get it under control when I go home after completing my hike. What's even more scarier is what will it be like in 2 months or so when I begin going through the Whites? Oh well, we'll cross that bridge and many others when we get there. I've spotted more lizards on the high ridges and sent a pic to Gavin. I also had a baby bird literally drop in front of me on the trail. It was apparent that it was learning to fly and when it looked up at me I thought it was thinking, "Oh my, what's he going to do to me." What I did is take a really awesome picture of him and I will post this one on the gallery when I get a chance. I've become a little dismayed over some hikers, hopefully not thru hikers short cutting switchbacks by going straight down instead of staying on the trail. Who ever is doing this needs to realize the hard work and planning the trail maintainers took and that by their action they are actually eroding the path and are the ones who complain when this results in "mud" in the trail! Finally, those who smoke while hiking the trail should be putting their butts in a zip lock bag and taking them out. If they can't do that then they should dispose of them off the trail. The last thing I want to see is a cigarette butt on the trail. Well, I'll get off my soap box now. I just want to put these things out there. Meanwhile I will continue to thank God for this wonderful hike and my family for all of their support.