Date: 2004-04-18
From: Pearisburg, VA

To: Day 40: Bailey Gap Shelter, VA
Miles today: 23.0
Weather: clear sky

When Hot Chocolate drove me to the trailhead on AT Day 40 at the east end of the Senator Shumate Bridge in Pearisburg, VA at 7:00 a.m., the sky was clear and the forecast called for low to mid 80-degree temperatures ¢ so I carried a relatively heavy water load in addition to five days worth of food. The original plan called for my wife to rejoin me for a goodbye kiss after I crossed the bridge, but when I got to the west end, there was a set of stairs that took the AT down and under the highway and when I reached the other side and ascended a small hill, I was just in time to see her drive away. Alas¢¦One of the first things to greet a hiker on this segment is a sign warning of an industrial landfill (from the nearby Celanese Corporation) up the hill to the right (east) of the AT. Less than a quarter mile farther on, I came to a small stream draining from this hill with an ominous sign warning everyone not to drink the water because ¢it may contain harmful levels of naturally occurring bacteria¢ ¢ no connection with the earlier sign was given¢¦ Very soon thereafter the AT begins a rather tough 1,500-foot climb up Peters Mountain, thereafter begins a long, hot, shade-less, waterless ridge walk to the Rice Field Shelter at 6.8 miles and on to the Pine Swamp Branch Shelter at 19.1 miles.This rocky, but relatively flat traverse (a portion of which straddles the border between VA and WVA) wouldn¢t have been so difficult if the trees had some leaves and there were some cold water mountain streams to rinse and cool off, but this early summer-like day (the guys on the radio thought it was terrific) was greeted by winter looking foliage and no water on the trail. Time will tell if this early introduction to hot-weather hiking will be any easier with higher temperatures softened by leaf shade and maybe some streams or ponds ¢ I sure hope so, because if it doesn¢t it will be a long hard trek to Maine. Despite these difficulties, I managed to get to the Pine Swamp Branch Shelter by 5:15 p.m., so after signing in and loading up with water I pushed on another 3.9 miles to the Bailey Gap Shelter. This relatively short extension may sound easy, but it included a 1,300-foot climb and I don¢t mind admitting that I was sure glad to see this shelter at near nightfall.I saw no other hikers during this 23.0-mile trek, but I did meet and thank two groups of trail workers, one going north and one south. Before meeting the second group, I passed their trucks loaded down with coolers and other supplies I was sorely tempted to indulge in a little ¢surreptitious trail magic,¢ but I refrained and within literally a couple of minutes I came across the trail workers returning from their morning¢s work. My relief at not being embarrassed by taking advantage of the unguarded supplies was amplified by the sight of the last worker who was charging up the hill waving the biggest machete I have ever seen ¢ he laughed when I told him that had I not known he had been working on the trail I might have been alarmed by his antics. One last point, on the Pine Swamp Ridge, at mile 16.6, the AT forms the southern terminus of the 330-mile Allegheny Trail than spans much of WVA to reach PA ¢ could be that this will be future through hike for my wife and I.