Date: 2009-06-11
From: Calf Mountain

To: Loft Mountain
Miles today: 16.5
Weather: overcast clouds

Hiking The SkylineWe took our time leaving the Calf Mountain shelter in the morning because there were some interesting people we didn't get to talk to the night before. Dances With Wolfie was up and gone early, but we got another chance to talk with Patches and Crazy Lady over morning coffee. We spent a lot of time hanging out with a section hiker named Tom who was an airline mechanic for UPS in Maryland. He had hiked most of the northern part of the trail a few years earlier from Main through most of Pennsylvania. he was taking some time this year to hike most of Virginia southbound, so we wouldn't be seeing him again but we struck up a nice friendship nonetheless. It was another hot and humid hike that day but the trail was much less rocky than the day before. The AT follows Skyline Drive most of the way through the park and we could occasionally hear cars a few hundred feet away, but this particular section didn't actually cross the road. There were some difficult climbs, especially out of Jarmin Gap to Sawmill Run and we were again drenched with sweat when we reached the rocky outcrop at the top. But the mountain laurel and rhododendrons were in full bloom and much of the trail followed along mountain streams so it was a beautiful hike. At several spots we stopped to watch a deer scamper across the trail or admire the falcons and hawks circling above. We were just glad they weren't buzzards circling overhead waiting for our demise. Eventually we reached Skyline drive at a scenic overlook called Turk Gap. It had a phenomenal view of the valley below so we stopped to rest and have lunch. To section hikers were also there with their pitbull companion who was out on her first long distance hike. They gave us a preview of the climbs ahead, which didn't sound fun, so we took our time with lunch. Storms and fog move in quickly in Shenandoah and we watched as a ominous cloud made its way toward us. We looked at the map and saw that there was a wayside restaurant at Loft Mountain a dozen miles up, so we decided to leave the AT and hike along Skyline drive with the hopes of possibly hitching a ride. The prospects of that went down when it started raining on us and we realized there was very little traffic going north. the chances of a car picking up two smelly and sweaty hikers with a wet dog seemed slim, but we stuck out our thumbs for each car going by in the hopes someone would take pity. We had walked about 4 miles when an RV pulled over to the side of the road. It was an elderly retired couple that just happened to be headed for Loft Mountain, so they offered us a ride. The couple was fascinated by the trail and had many questions for us, especially about Einstein and about bears. They told us about their home and family in Grand Rapids, MI and about their many RV trips since retiring. We slowed down a few times to watch some deer bound across the road and once for a wild turkey mother and her dozen or so chicks. It was the first time any of us had seen baby turkeys. When we got to the wayside they offered to wait around and take us up the campground, about a mile up the mountain. But we were looking forward to relaxing at the wayside for a while and politely declined. As it turned out the food prices at the wayside were pretty outrageous, so we just shacked from our foodbags instead. We perused the gift shop and bought some postcards and went to relax on the deck and enjoy the view. While there a deer wandered into the parking lot and paused to graze just feet from our table. I took a few photos while Einstein just laid there and gave a few low growls to let the deer know he was there and looking out for us. Once we were fairly sure the rains had passed we put on our packs and took the Frazier Discovery Trail up Loft Mountain to the camp store and campground. It was a mile up to the camp store and another half mile after that to the campgrounds. The climb was rather steep, but the trail was smooth and evenly paved. When we got there we started looking for a campsite when a couple we passed clued us into a good campsite just outside of the campgrounds on the AT - which would be free. So we found our way there and camped on the cliff of Loft Mountain on a gorgeous vista with a view of the valley below.