Date: 2017-03-26
From: Wayah Bald Shelter, NC

To: Telico Gap
Miles today: 8.4

From Fatboy:It rained a lot during the night. We had our tent set up on a reasonably flat site but there was no vegetation or leaves on the site. The mud splashed up on the side of the tent inside the vestibule and my crocs were full of mud too. That's not really the way I like to start my day but at least it wasn't below freezing. I put on all clean clothes. Clean socks feel amazing when your feet are as battered as mine are. The big struggle is to put knee length compression socks on when you're a stiff, sore 60 year old who's ~6'2"" tall in a tent that you barely have enough overhead room to sit up in. Ginger learned the hard way to just stay as low as possible to avoid flying elbows. I retrieved the bear canister from the tree. We were influenced to buy a lot of food in Franklin because we were told that the Nantahala Outdoor Center wasn't a good place to resupply. We've been hiking for two days and still can't get all of our food in the can. I'm carrying way too much food! I made coffee and oatmeal as usual while Ginger packed our camp. By now our division of chores is pretty much set and we just get it done. We were on our way as the last people from camp, again. I'm slow in the morning but we always end up at the same place as most everyone else at the end of the day. The early part of our hike today was reasonably easy, not too many rocks and no severe or long elevation changes. Our only issue was rain. We had our rain gear on several times because it would begin to rain. We'd hike a short distance and then the sun would come out and make the rain gear into a sauna suit. I wear a poncho, so it's not too bad, but Ginger wears a full rain suit and steams in the sun. Lunch was at a secluded meadow and very pleasant. We began our last push to Tellico Gap knowing that it was a very long descent. Those are the worst for my feet and knees. I'm taped up to support both knees but it isn't enough. As I tire my knees become more unstable and it's frustrating to not be sure my leg isn't going to buckle every few minutes. Knee braces are in my very near future. We did surprise two turkeys near the trail. They make a lot of noise when they exit an area in a panic. I stumbled in to Tellico Gap and were met by Steve, the owner of Nantahala Mountain Lodge. I'd read about this lodge, which is located in Aquone, and made sure we visited. Steve built the lodge and cabins while living in a tent for several years. He's a thru-hiker and tells a funny story about making the announcement to his pals about hiking the AT during a session with a bottle of scotch. Steve (Wiggie) delivered us to a beautiful log lodge where we were met by Maggie, Steve's wife. We were directed to the mud room to store all of our hiker gear and collect our dirty clothes. No hiker gear or clothing are allowed in the lodge! We were ushered to showers and given clean clothes and socks to wear while in the lodge. This is the most beautiful lodge I've ever seen. There are natural wood tables and cabinets throughout and we discovered they were made by Steve. Our room was gorgeous with a giant rustic bed and beautiful decorating. Maggie washed all of our filthy clothes and informed us that dinner was at 1700. We relaxed in the lodge until dinner. We were served a delicious cream soup, steamed vegetables, yams, and a hearty pulled pork in gravy dish. I drank many glasses of Gatorade and blueberry pie with whipped cream for dessert. We were both quite full but did manage to buy some snacks for later. The hiker hunger is not a myth. I can eat until I feel stuffed and walk across the room and want more food. I know I've lost over 10 pounds in only the first 100 miles! We retired to our room to rest and hopefully let some healing work on my legs. What a wonderful day!From Ginger:The note I made in our guidebook about Nantahala Mountain Lodge is "cabin and wood as art." Everything in eyesight is beautifully crafted. It's the kind of dream cabin I can see creating for one's own enjoyment. It's hard to believe they are willing to share it with others! Steve and Maggie have been married more than 46 years, I believe they said. I'm grateful to be around another married couple who clearly work well together and seem to respect each other's strengths. I bet some are quite distinct and others overlap. It really seems to work for them. Steve explained how things would work when we arrived at the lodge, but thankfully Maggie was there to then guide us through it. The process keeps the accommodations fresh and very clean, which is important for other thru-hikers AND non-hiking guests. I was glad Maggie led us to different showers so Nathan and I could clean up simultaneously. It allows you to literally leave the trail world at the door and begin to recover and restore.