Date: 2003-08-13
From: Hughes Gap

To: Apple House Shelter
Miles today: 18.0

Wednesday August 13 In order to reach Damascus by August 17, I have decided to have Charlotte take me to Hughes Gap which is 28 miles further. I don¢t like to make such jumps on the AT but have some self imposed time deadlines. So by 8 AM, I am at Hughes Gap. After the multi-curved drive, I am a bit turned around so fortunately she points me in the right direction. I would hate to start the day going the wrong direction. No more than a minute after she¢s gone, I get that very strange feeling of standing in the middle of nowhere, alone except for the quiet of the trees and fog. It¢s strange and eerie but very serene. But that feeling goes away quickly as I am soon huffing up a 2,400¢ ascent to Roan High Knob Shelter. Near the shelter I come upon a group of 4 college aged kids and then two fellows who are staying at the shelter. They are frying ham and eggs. No perfume ever smelled better. I consider a grab and run but they have a big dog too. The morning view from the shelter is the usual panoramic fog. Leaving the shelter, the AT drops down thru some fir trees which I haven¢t seen in a while. They remind me of my beloved Arizona. I am soon at Carvers Gap and the entrance to Roan Mt. State Park. A popular one it looks like. There are some people standing by cars, one man tells me he is banding birds. I take it that is something like a professional bird watcher. A couple of other men are preparing to hike. As I cross the highway, the college kids are now ahead of me. Soon as we gain elevation we pass several groups of short day hikers and some huckleberry pickers. Huckleberries are a short season small berry that is near delicacy in a few mountain areas in the U.S. The small ascent from Carvers Gap is to an open, treeless ridge and for a change the view is relatively clear. The area is called the Roans. It feels great too see such panoramic beauty for miles. It¢s the best views I have had in my 300+ miles on the AT. I compare it to Wayah Bald in southern N.C. last year. Soon I come to the Overmountain Shelter or The Barn as it is called by hikers. It is considered the best shelter on the AT. I can see why. It¢s a clean, old barn that has been kept in good condition and could probably sleep 30-40 people. There¢s a large upstairs and a downstairs area that is open to the east and a sprawling view down the lush hillside. You can see for several miles. Unfortunately it¢s just past noon and I can make a lot of miles this pleasant afternoon. So I have some lunch and proceed on my way. The day¢s hike gets better as the path continues on an open ridge. It¢s like a field in Indiana except a lot higher. I think I can see Mt Mitchell in the distance. A slight shower causes me to put on the poncho but barely dampens the afternoon hike. Also I come across some very long horn looking cows and a bull. They don¢t move much as I approach so I make a wide detour around them. I¢d had to take one of those horns in the packside. A couple of young men pass in the opposite direction, heading for Overmountain shelter. I am headed for Apple House Shelter which has a reputation for not being a safe place to stay as it¢s less than a half mile from the highway. I¢ll decide when I get there. If it appears unworthy there¢s a motel about 3 miles off the trail or maybe I¢ll try using the poncho as a rain fly and sleep under it. I think I can make that work. The trail returns to the forest and 2 miles from the shelter I come across a middle aged man and an early 20¢s young lady. They are headed for Apple House too, so since I will have company I decide to stay there. I get there probably 45 minutes before they do. They are Steve and Amanda, father and daughter, from Iowa who have no hiking experience and drove here for 4 days of hiking on the AT. A familiar story I think. This is their second day hiking and after only 21 miles they hate it. Amanda has blisters on her feet and is a big girl besides. Neither fact will make the next 24 miles pleasant. It will take them at least 3 days. I encourage them to call a shuttle to pick them up at the highway and kick back at the Kincora shelter which is their destination. They are good company and make the stay at Apple House Shelter a pleasant evening. The shelter is quiet, water is right behind it (but there is no privy) and no one bothers us. I believe the shelter¢s bad reputation is undeserved. SUMMARY AUGUST 13 HUGHES GAP TO APPLE HOUSE SHELTER, 17.9 MILES, CUMULATIVE 120 MILES.