Date: 2015-07-14
From: Bemis Mountain Lean-to

To: Maine 4 Road
Miles today: 17.7
Weather: overcast clouds

I tried to get up at 5.30, but completely failed. I fell back to sleep immediately, and hard. I woke up for my 6am alarm no problems though, and I was up and out before 7. Being the first up, I had to hike through miles and miles of spider webs. I was constantly wiping them off my face and arms. I was also walking along and drinking tea for the first time in a while, since the trail was actually gentle enough to allow that. The first part of the morning was spent navigating bare rocks, searching for blazes and cairns. The sun was shining again, but it was a little cooler than yesterday. It still ended up being absolutely boiling later on, even when the clouds came out. I was mostly going down for about three miles, then I started going up. I bumped into a SOBO who told me that Smasher was a day behind and had asked about me. The same man had met me in Andover to tell me that Not Yet asked about me. It made me happy to know that other hikers do think about me, even when I feel like I'm all alone out here. There was a bit of a steep climb up, but it was thankfully short. Thereafter, the climbs today were more steady and all quite short. The trail itself was generally okay, but had plenty of annoying roots, rocks, and mud puddles. Still, I made much better time than recently, even with having to go around many fallen trees. I stopped before 11 at a shelter so I could refill my water. I stopped at 12.30 for lunch, and chatted with a SOBO for a while. I then refilled my water again. I'm drinking so much, but I'm sweating from a ton too. There were 3 canoes at the pond where I refilled, but I had to keep going. I got to the roadside where I was due to meet Stoat and Poppins by 2.30. I was about 2 hours earlier than predicted. I spotted Poppins on the trail, I was so happy to see her. She and Stoat had bought some trail magic- soda and biscuits. I had a coke and a couple biscuits, and we sat for a while. Eventually we got up and took their rental car into Rangeley. They took me to the shop to resupply, then to the cafe for wifi, then to the pizza place, then finally ice cream. The whole time I was basically grilling them about their experiences on the trail, especially the parts that I haven't reached yet. They put up with my endless questions very well, and I had a really fun time. It felt like I wasn't even on the trail (despite smelling like it), and instead I was just hanging out with some friends for the day. We came back to the road, where we we set up a stealth campsite. We discovered that apparently no one else had passed by, since the trail magic was untouched! Even the animals had left it alone. I also quickly remembered that I hadn't used my tent since before Hanover, and it had rained. My tent was very strongly smelling of mould, and I had to wipe it down a bit. The zipper had actually corroded so much that it didn't want to open. I actually had an even bigger problem though- my trekking poles no longer have any tips left, and cannot be adjusted in size. So I couldn't set my tent up with them! Thankfully, Poppins came to the rescue and lent me her pole. I will have to buy a new one if I'm going to use my tent, ever again. I will also need to air it out quite considerably. I'm currently laying inside with the front door rolled up just so I can get so more fresh air inside, since the musty smell is overpowering. It's my own fault for leaving it for so long, I am very lucky that more damage hasn't been done. One good thing is that the bugs can't get me, because they took a big chunk out of my shoulders last night. Stoat and Poppins have also given me toilet roll, suncream and loaned me a sawyer to use for the night. (Mine is completely clogged, and my big bladder burst). They've been very generous with me, for someone who they met basically twice- months ago. Today I also had some good news from Salomon. My new shoes will be delivered on the 21st! So until at least then I'll have to keep my hobo shoes (which I've already had to re-sew, because the roots just love to trip me up).Tomorrow I'm planning to do about 18 miles. It rained a bit today (luckily when I was in town) so I'm hoping that the trail has magically stayed dry and isn't too difficult. I'll be sad to say goodbye to my friends, but that's the nature of the Appalachian Trail, especially coming from abroad. I guess there are a lot more permanent goodbyes coming in my future, and that's one reason why I don't want this trail to end.