Date: 2012-02-18
From: Carver's Gap

To: Roan Mountain TN
Miles today: 15.2
Weather: clear sky

Warning: This is the sort of day that might make some readers want to leap up and run off to start hikes of their own. I was certainly very happy to be out there. True to the plan, Connie's neighbors Dave and Erica arrived to pick me up early. I hastily finished my packing and we set off, retracing the drive Connie had done yesterday. The large ice "waterfalls" still covered the road cuttings but the sun shone brightly, and the day promised to be beautiful.After Dave and Erica had wished me a good hike I set of northbound once again. This time, instead of immediately heading into the trees, I set off up onto a bald. The wind was blowing briskly but not too cold. I stopped to take a few pictures and headed on.Part way up the second climb of the day I paused to shed my jacket and to look around. I could see other hikers behind me. I assumed they were dayhikers because they only had small packs. Two of them caught up to me and passed on by, branching off of the AT at a trail junction. The others must have either been out for just a short walk or on another trail entirely because I never saw them again.After crossing the open area the Trail led off into the trees. In this area, sheltered from the sun, the air felt chill and damp. Snow and ice covered parts of the Trail here. The hiking was pretty easy and I hurried along.I met a group of southbound weekend hikers. They told me there was a group still at Stan Murray Shelter. I arrived at there to find some guys lingering over a late breakfast. Evidently the night had been long and cold for them. They planned to hike most of the way to 19E and camp at Doll Flats tonight.I chatted with them while I took a break and ate second breakfast. I answered many questions about my hike as I ate.The day was lovely now, but once again bad weather was headed in with rain, ice, snow, and falling temperatures in the mix. I knew I didn't want to stay at Apple House Shelter, which is very close to the road, so I had my sights set on Mountain Harbour B&B. Doc Rockett had once again worked his logistical support magic on my behalf and had made the arrangements for me. The day was wearing on, and I wasn't sure how long the hike would take, so I set off again. I scurried along until I got to the side trail to Overmountain Shelter. Given the distance to the shelter and the long way yet to 19E, I chose not to go see the converted barn shelter. Another path not taken - on this hike, anyway. The Trail climbed steeply at this point, and the food drop I had picked up at Greasy Creek Friendly seemed to double in weight as I puffed my way up. When I stopped to catch my breath I heard voices behind me. Two young boys and two men were out on a day hike. They were from just over yonder wanted the boys to see the area. We leapfrogged a bit as the boys paused to explore and then when I stopped for air. As we passed we exchanged bits of information about ourselves. The conversation had a bit of an odd flow about, but it worked. The men saw a couple of hawks, but I didn't even get a glimpse of them.We came out onto Little Hump and the view was spectacular. The sun was warm, and the breeze was mild. I plopped myself down on a handy rock and just drank in the view. When one of the men passed by I asked him to snap a picture. As you can see I was really enjoying myself. I felt like I could have stayed there for hours just looking at it all.I met a man and a woman day hiking with their dog. He told me he hopes to thru hike when he retires. He identified some of the mountains and told me a bit about the ski resort complex visible in the distance with no snow.Reluctantly I left my perch and went on. It needn't have been reluctantly as when I got to the top of Little Hump new vistas opened up. More great views on a perfect day. The Trail wound down some switchbacks and then up Hump Mountain, a bit rockier than Little Hump and more windswept. I slowed or stopped from time to time to catch the views - as well as my breath. Just as well as the views were breathtaking.I heard from the couple, who had gone ahead and were now returning, that there was a group of hikers ahead of me. Indeed when I reached the top I could just see them dropping down out of sight. Snatches of laughter and shouts from them were carried to me on the wind.That's when I noticed that the wind was picking up, reminding me to keep moving. I followed the other hikers but quickly lost sight of them altogether. The incredible views stayed with me until the Trail dropped back into the trees.Shortly after that the Trail became rocky and more difficult. Not too bad, just slow going. All in all though, a very small price to pay for such a fabulous hike.At Doll Flats I met the three hikers that had preceded me down the trail. They were out for the weekend and were hoping for plenty of snow that night. More power to them, I thought. I would be in, warm and dry.Down and down I went to 19E, passing Apple House Shelter, a distinctly unattractive shelter with "HAUNTED" spray painted on the side.When I reached the road I turned left, walked about .3 miles, crossed 19E and reached the B&B. Mary welcomed me in and introduced me to Rhoda, a dayhiker, who was also staying there. After I got a shower and a change of clothes, Rhoda drove us to Highlander Barbeque for dinner. She is in the Army and heading to Afghanistan soon. My best wishes go with her. Once back at Mountain Harbour I went to bed and reflected on what a fantastic day it had been. From start to finish.