Date: 2004-08-31
From: Hexacuba Shelter, NH

To: Symbol of the North
Miles today: 14.7

This morning, my hiking clothes were still wet with sweat. On many mornings, I have put on clothes damp from the moisture of the night, or from being rained on during a previous day, but I can not recall having put on clothes that were soaked-that's right, soaked-from perspiration. The worst part was putting on the underwear briefs. Yuk!A cool mist permeated the forest during part of the morning; this was a good and bad condition. It kept me cool while ascending Cube Mountain, but it fogged out the potential scenic views from the summit.The descent of this mountain was especially hard. It was steep, rocky, and wet from the rain during the night. The trail was full of puddles, flowing water, and muck. I hiked down at a snail's pace, wary of slipping and sustaining an injury.With Cube Mountain behind me, the trail leveled off. Still, the hiking was moderately difficult because the trail was full of water and muck that I did my best to avoid. The mosquitoes were a problem during these level parts of the trail because the elevations were lower. My feet became prematurely sore after spending so much time stepping around puddles, not to mention the constant impact on my knees and feet during the descent of Cube Mountain.But there were some positive developments during this day. Late in the morning, the mist lifted, replaced by cooler and drier air. There would be no sweatfest today.I hiked down a spur trail that led to Wachipauka Pond. It appeared to be a wild, undeveloped body of water, although I could not see all of it. To my delight, I spotted a loon swimming near a beaver lodge. The bird would submerge itself for up to thirteen seconds, presumably hunting for fish to eat. Watching that loon was relaxing. All of the latent stress from the last two days of heat and humidity seemed to disappear from my system.Loons are my favorite bird. I consider them a symbol of wild places in the north. Spotting this bird indicates that I have finally reached the wild northern part of The Appalachian Trail.At a road in Glencliff, NH, I walked half of a mile to The Hikers Welcome Hostel. It is a funky kind of accommodation. There are mattresses on the floor in a second story room and outside in a large tent. The shower, toilet, and laundry machines are located outside within another tent like structure. It costs ten dollars to spend the night. Some basic hiker provisions are for sale. Everything is purchased on an honor system. On the following morning, hikers pay what they owe.Staying here tonight are Wipeout, Carp, Slimer, and some other hikers I am getting to know. I spent some time with Carp strategizing the logistics of resupplying food in The White Mountains.I feel an enhanced anticipation this evening. This town is located on the gateway to the most spectacular hiking on The Appalachian Trail. During the next few days, I will be hiking much of the time above tree line over the White Mountains. It will start tomorrow with Moosalakie Mountain. After that lies the Presidential Range including Mount Washington, the highest location in New England.This evening, I am also feeling apprehension. The hiking will be more demanding than I am accustomed to. The weather can be dangerous if rain combines with cold.I am composing this journal in a large white tent. Mattresses are strewn across the wooden floor. The other hikers are in the house watching a video, or sitting around a campfire outside. Some of them have been organizing their gear. Everyone, I suspect, has the White Mountains in the back of their minds.It is time to leave the tent and hang out with my hiker friends. It is not that often when so many of us are gathered in one spot.