Date: 2010-09-19
From: Baxter State Park

To: KATADIN!
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

Hello All,Well, it is hard to believe but our AT hike is finally over. Dodger, Butterfly Man and I summitted Baxter Peak at Mt. Katahdin on Sunday 9/19. They were waiting for me when I arrived at 10:15 am. The day was overcast and the entire mountain was in clouds but the sign at the top of the mtn. came into view and we just savored the moment. Initially there were only a few people there but in short order quite a number of day hikers started to come in. We grabbed a quick bite; bagel with peanut butter and the ever popular Snicker bar and then took our photos. Although the day was cloudy, the trail was mostly dry which made the hiking pretty decent especially the descent which could have been slippery and difficult if wet. The trail up the mt. starts off quite smooth and not steep, then becomes rocky with some roots, next is a boulder scramble that requires some technique and then a long plateau trail to the top. The tree line stops about half way up and the upper portion of the mt. looks like something you might see on the moon. After coming down we took a shuttle from the park to Millinocket where we stayed overnight at a hiker hostel called the Appalachian Trail Lodge. It was pretty good except we were on the third floor and it had a low ceiling, you could hear the thuds as we were constantly banging our heads on the low door frames, especially 6' 4" BF Man. Next morning we took a shuttle to Medway and caught the bus to Portland. At Portland we separated, Dodger to rent a car and pick up his wife that evening, Butterfly Man also to get a car but his wife not coming for a couple more days. I decided go onto Boston and catch the train. The train sounded like a good idea but the problem was that it didn't leave until 9:30 pm for Washington where I would have to change trains for Greenville and that one would not leave until 6:30 pm the next night. No views and trying to get to sleep sitting or stretching out in a train seat, not very good. I did spend Tuesday riding the metro and going to the Smithsonian, the Capital Square area and the Holocaust Museum, all very interesting. Arrived in Greenville on 9/22 at 4:54 am where my son Bryan and Niece Julie picked me up. Jenny the dog seemed pleased to see me, I wondered if she would know me or not. Since arriving have been trying to catch up on sleep, going through the mail and talking on the phone. I apologize if this email gets too long but it will be the last one concerning the trail and there are some things I would like to say. First, thanks be to God for a safe journey, thanks to my hiking partners; Pilgrim on the first half and Dodger on the second part; I appreciate their assistance, integrity, discipline, trail knowledge and the fun times we had when off trail also to BF man, short time on the trail but a pleasure to know him, thanks to family, friends, fellow hikers, ATC volunteers and the most amazing of all, the strangers that offered assistance in so many ways to us folks along the trail. You all have helped in so many ways that I can't imagine how we could have done it without you.I am not sure how I will look back on this life experience, time will tell but I can tell you some things it is not:Regardless of what Bill Bryson wrote it is not "A Walk in the Woods", it is physically hard, monotonous, and carries the risk of serious injury or illness, Lyme disease was rampant in the PA to CT area.If you want to see beautiful views, drive to a trail head, take a day pack with a lunch and a short hike to a scenic spot-you will see a lot more and enjoy it.If you want to see wild life go to some choice location, find a comfortable place to sit and observe. Same thing with the flora go to the Great Smoky Mtn. National Park area in early spring there is an amazing variety of wild flowers in bloom. If you think you have seen everything that you will have to face on the trail by the time you get to Vermont, think again, NH and ME were a whole new experience and so much more difficult than any other states. The views were outstanding if it wasn't rainy and cloudy but you sure worked for them.The strangest night that I encountered occurred when solo hiking in NJ. As it was approaching evening I started to look for a place to sleep. The guide book mentioned a camp that had several AT shelters near a lake. Usually we did not go far off trail to spend the night and this site was .7 mile but at the time was the only thing readily available. I envisioned an active campground with people, and especially vending machines with cold drinks and candy bars. As I followed the signs to the camp I noticed that the asphalt road looked to be in bad repair and not recently used. Finally came to a pretty lake but it was grown up in weeds and tall grass around it as if not used. The signs said to go to the Central Lodge but as I walked through the area all the buildings were deserted and some in disrepair. Some buildings still had furnishings such as curtains and chairs but all appeared totally abandoned. A few buildings had actually collapsed. Walking through the tall grass without any idea where the shelters might be I finally spotted two small ramshackle buildings near the lake. As I approached I could hear a dog bark in one of the shelters. I was surprised when no one came out as usually hikers are a pretty gregarious group and like to talk, but no sign of life. I took the second shelter which had a blue tarp blowing in the wind on the roof, a three legged picnic table in front and two iron cot beds inside along with the requisite cobwebs and dust. I sat down on the propped up table and started to prepare my meal. Dusk was approaching and as I sat there I could observe a large Black Bear on the opposite side of the lake casually working the shoreline for food. Fun to see a bear but it also added a feeling of remoteness to the site. Just about dark and the time my dinner was ready I heard the door next door open, the next thing I knew there was a dog charging straight at me. About all I could do was jump up and in a panicky voice yell, "be a good dog" several times. Well, all the dog did was sniff me and then turned around and walked off. By now I was a little perturbed that the owner, whom I heard also come outside did not call his dog off. I shouted " how are you doing", not a peep back. I then said something like "not so good I guess". Still no response, I heard the door close and both dog and person were gone back inside their shelter. Then I got to thinking maybe I better not be too much of a wise guy as it was only him and me. Next I heard a high pitch strange sound coming from inside the shelter next door. It reminded me of a very old person trying to talk. So what is a young person, a dog and a very old person doing in a ramshackle building at night in an abandoned camp ground? It soon was very dark outside and all you could hear were the frogs in the lake and the tarp gently blowing on the roof. Well, I went inside my lovely shelter for the night wondering if I would be getting any sleep or not. Found a heavy shovel inside which I placed next to my bed and tied a rope on the door to a nail on the inside so that it could not just be pulled open. As you can imagine it was not my best sleeping night but I managed to get through it and at daybreak loaded up my back and got the heck out of dodge. It wasn't until several days later that I found out that the person next door was a fellow hiker that was a deaf mute and probably did not even realize I was there that night. The voice I heard was him trying to talk to his dog.My most miserable night occurred when hiking up Wildcat Ridge from Lost Lake at Pinkham Notch through Carter Notch and on to the Imp shelter in the White Mountains NH. It was cold and rainy and I was drenched. Met Dodger at the Carter Notch Hut and couldn't wait to get some soup, food and coffee. Had three bowls of chicken noodle soup, it was wonderful. Our plans were to go to the Imp Shelter another 8 miles or so and it was around 3:00 pm and the trail was pretty rough. We could have probably stayed at the Hut but decided to try for the Imp. With some reservations I headed out, soon Dodger was out of sight. Long story short, I misread some trail signs and unbeknowst to me ended up taking a loop trail that was actually taking me south on the AT instead of north. By the time I realized what had happened it was getting rather dark and I knew I could never make it to the next shelter. Due to the steep terrain there were very few places to put a tent up but I finally came to Zeta Pass which had some ground suitable for a tent site. Now, it is raining and all my clothes are soaked, the rain slowed down enough for me to quickly throw my tent up and get under it but I still had to keep my sleeping bag and other clothes dry while changing from my wet clothes. I put my air mattress down on the tent floor, stripped off my clothes outside in the tent vestibule and crawled into my dry clothes and sleeping bag. The rain picked back up and all night the wind blew, the bottom of my tent would allow water from under it to permeate through so now the only thing keeping me out of the water from the floor was my mattress which is the smallest size they make. It was like being on a raft. I survived the night, took off my semi dry clothes and put back on my wet cold clothes, socks and boots, took the tent down and headed to meet Dodger at the Imp. To my total frustration the next section of the trail crossed North Carter Mtn. and the descent was one of the worst I had seen on the whole trail and it was wet and slippery. When I finally arrived at the shelter there was Dodger reading a book and waiting for me to arrive. He had made it the night before but had to descend the steep trail with his head lamp on which must have been pretty horrendous. I at least made the right decision to stealth camp. One last story of hiker culture: The evening of the hurricane off of Maine's coast, Hatteras Jack and I were at the Spaulding Mtn shelter; Dodger had hiked on to a camp site which was across the Carrabassett River. About dark a group of Colby College students on freshman orientation week arrived at the shelter but tented outside. The rains hit about 8:00 pm and it rained all night, when we woke up at dawn there were seven more people sleeping in the shelter. All the Colby campers had gotten soaked. We looked like sardines, some were even lying perpendicular to the others. At any rate, I was up first, dressed and headed out to meet Dodger who had left a message to say he would wait for me at his camping site. I was a little concerned about the river crossing as it was listed as a ford (no bridge) and knew the water would be up. My concerns increased as I could hear the roar of the Carrabassett even as I was still a mile or more away. Shortly, Hatteras Jack approached and passed me, I have mentioned him before; he is a young fellow, 34 years old and completing the AT having started it several years ago. He needed to finish his hike soon as he was scheduled for graduate school in a few weeks. I tried to speed up because I wanted to see how he was going to cross the river but could not catch him until arriving at the river bank and seeing him as he walked across a plank between two rocks. He then hopped several boulders and was able to wade onto the opposite bank. I felt a little overwhelmmed as the water was rushing between the rocks under the board and it didn't take a rocket scientist to realize if one slipped into the water they were in deep doo doo. Just as it looked as if HJ was about ready to get back on the trail; he paused, stood up, turned around and asked if he could help me. Well, I can tell you, I didn't know exactly how he could help but I was sure glad to have someone else there while I made my attempt. He suggested that he could hold the board which was not fastened down and tended to rock back and forth; it was secured with a cable to the rock so it couldn't wash away but otherwise just setting there. HJ hopped back over the rocks like it was nothing to it, held the board, then hovered over me as I jumped from rock to rock and eventually got to where I could remove my boots and wade across. He could have easily just gotten back on the trail and pushed on, like I might have done, but instead took the time to help the old timer. It wasn't until later when I was able to check my cell phone that I had several text messages and a voice message from Dodger warning me not to try and cross the river due to the high water levels. He had crossed the river the night before the rain and with the low water level was able to walk under the board that we had crossed over, now with the water just a foot or so below it. When I arrived in Stratton and the White Wolf Inn that evening Dodger had a six pack of Carrabassett beer in the motel room refrigerator, sure tasted good. I made sure that HJ had a good meal that night, my pleasure. Lastly, here are a few basic statistics:Started on 4/5 and completed on 9/19, 24 weeks or 168 daysMilage: 2179 plus numerous side trips.Weight at start: 161 lbs Weight at finish: 144 lbsWaist at start: 33 inches Waist at finish: 31 inchesFalls & slips-estimate 15 to 20, no injuries except for the first one, a gash over right eye.Illness-none but did have a back muscle spasm that kept me off the trail for three days.Residual effects: bottom of feet have numb tingley feeling, typical for long distance hikers and should go away after a while.Zero Days: estimate about 15 spent in town or at peoples homes.The first picture attached includes Dodger on the sign with me and Butterfly Man sitting down below the sign.Well, end of story, thanks to all of you for your wonderful messages of encouragement and prayers along the way. I am looking forward to getting back into the groove here at home which may take a few weeks and seeing all of you.Regards,Shagman aka Keith