Date: 2010-04-06
From: Damascus VA

To: Thomas Knob Shelter
Miles today: 10.7
Weather: overcast clouds

What is without periods of rest will not endure.                                  - Ovid Tom, the shuttle driver, met me across from Mount Rogers Outfiters to take me back up to Summit Cut, from where I had hiked on Sunday. He saw my blisters and made some useful suggestions on how I might improve the situation. Unfortunately there were no stores open that might have what I needed. I put those ideas on hold until I got someplace I could get supplied. But now I wanted to hike!Back up the twisty roads to pick up my journey north. It was a sunny day, and the light shone between the trees, slanted across the road and flickered as we drove through the pattern of light and shadow. I started to feel a bit queasy, so I closed my eyes. Even with my eyes closed I could sense the rumblestrips of light jarring my head. Finally we were there, and I opened my eyes.I hopped out, grabbed my pack and headed north along the trail. It crossed some streams and headed up across some pastureland, then up again into the woods. A goat watched me as I climbed. When I got close enough I tried to get a picture, but it turned out as so many wildlife shots do - "There, see that blurry white smudge there in the shadows? That's a goat!" It got nervous as I tried to move in a little closer, and then it disappeared in a mad scramble over the rocks.The day was warming up and the climb went on and on. The sun was beating down. I made up my mind to pace myself better than I had been doing. I came to a wide open area with a large rock - Buzzard Rock. It was hot and breezy, and the valleys were hazy and indistinct. I took a few pictures and moved on.It was lunchtime when I reached the crossing of the AT at Whitetop Mountain Road. The sun was beating down, but I found some shade under some trees near some remaining snow piles. Lunch was a leisurely boots-and-socks-off affair, and then it was time to make more progress.Another couple of miles found me at Elk Garden, an open grassy area where elk once lived.   The shade of an information board drew me in for another break. A couple of groups of spring-breakers drove in to walk for a short ways on the famed Appalachian Trail. They climbed the first hill, looked around, and then left.   From there it was up and up Mount Rogers.The upper section had frequent streams and seeps with water running across the trail. The trail turned rocky with many roots running through and over the rocks. A stand of fir trees gave off an incredible aroma. It wasn't the evergreen scent of Christmas, making one think of cinnamon and candle wax with traditional music in the background. No, this reminded me of blue skies, a breeze whispering in the branches, the gurgle of water and a deep earthy smell - since that's exactly what there was.Finally the trail came out not far below the summit and then curved away to the shelter area of Thomas Knob Shelter. A group was camping in the tenting area. I chatted with them and then made my way over to the shelter. A herd of "wild" ponies had beat me to the shelter and appointed themselves as the welcoming committee. Obviously they aren't really wild as they clearly expected me to feed them. I had to shoo a way clear so I could get to the shelter. They were also interested in licking everything- the rocks, the table, and the shelter itself.I made dinner and settled in for the night. All alone with those damn big shelter mice, I mean, ponies, and the wind sighing loudly in the trees.