Date: 2003-04-17
From: Walnut Mt Road

To: 19E
Miles today: 13.1
Weather: light rain

Today I get to walk the brand new relo (relocated trail) along the Elk River. This relo eliminates an infamous, maddening, tooth-grinding section of infuriating and fortitude-testing PUDS (pointless ups and downs). I did this section in pre-relo 2001 and, yes, it drove me mad. Can't you tell?I looked forward to the new trail with its two waterfalls and a river stroll.Before I hiked away from my shuttle drop-off, Bob showed me a splendid patch of "gay wings". This tiny fuchsia flower resembles a rabbit eating a pom-pom. Proof that Nature has a sense of humor.Bob suggested I walk this section southbound, and who am I to argue with the Trailmeister? The path is new and rootless, springy underfoot, a nice contrast to yesterday's rocks on Roan Mt., which made my shins ache. Rhodies and creeks line the new track.However, it is very hard to walk SOBO on a thru - you see everyone you know, and those you don't know are hikers, and thus interesting to talk to. I saw Notes, a young photojournalist I'd known since Hot Springs. He was on his way to interview Bob.Then there was River Wayne and his lanky trail dog Daisy. They were doing a large section hike from Erwin to Damascus. Wayne was curious about my experiences as a solo female hiker, so I told him about the Trail Journals site.The relo opened access to Mountaineer Falls. On a hot day (or a cold day, if one has the cojones) a hiker can get behind the falls and have a shower. I merely stuck my head under the waterfall. The cold mountain water jangled my scalp, giving me an ice water headache.Not long after, I ran into the White Brothers again. These identical twin brothers are retired Georgia Bureau of Investigation agents. They told me they were suspicious of a grey vehicle parked on the Trail, that it was likely stolen. They called 911 on their cell phone and reported it. Good cops never rest.Before long, I come into a lovely open area for lollygagging - the broad Elk River. Undulating meadows form an green ribbon on either side. The grass is studded with clumps of violet. Many birds flit in the rhododendron along its banks. Despite the gathering clouds, it is THE place for a picnic lunch.The wide water begs for a leisurely canoe trip, but this river is deceptively swift. Few rocks churn up whitewater in this portion, but if you tossed a stick in, it would be down the current in a heartbeat.To leave this area, I had to cross a new, English-style stile. This stile was designed and built by none other than my neighbor from Southern Pines, NC, the 17-year-old Billy Gingerich. It was a Scout project. Billy and his mom Laura and another brother hiked the AT last year. It is a small world on the AT, no?Later, a sign for Jones Falls indicates that it is a tenth of a mile off the Trail. I went, expecting to see another sweet little Mountaineer Falls, but this baby is impressive - a large rock cascade, with a healthy volume. Another spot to linger. What a fun "job" trail maintaining must be at times, opening up beauty spots like this. Not long after the falls, I run into Lemming, who I met on yesterday's Trail magic SOBO sojourn. As we chatted, Goldberry joined us and we stood around yakking as if we had all the time in the world. Which, if you think about it, we do. A third woman, Cadence joined us shortly thereafter. An AT gaggle.Goldberry said she'd gotten a weird vibe from a guy up the Trail. A fellow in a grey car was parked on the AT and asked if she was hiking alone. She didn't like that, and hiked on. I told her about the White Bothers reporting a grey car parked on the Trail.This area of Trail is infamous for yet another reason - hostility toward hikers. The Trail here was taken by the government 15 years ago by eminent domain. That didn't sit well with locals, some of whom aimed their fury at the hikers passing through. There have been documented cases of car vandalism including torching, a shelter was burnt down, there was a rape (and a conviction), and even fish hooks strung across the Trail at eye level.Though the Appalachian Trail conference and local hiking clubs have worked to improve relations, and land purchases and relos seem to have cooled down the worst hostility, it is still an area in which hikers remain wary.Along Buck Mountain Road, the deep gorge off the road is a dump. Literally. Trash spills down the mountainside, water heaters, old tires, refrigerators, dead animals. They choke the mountain stream below. All this beauty here, and this. It's symbolic, says Bob: "They're trashing the 'gummint' trail."Before this trash, however, is a picturesque valley pasture, rocky and long, with fruit trees blooming and huge, spreading oaks. A clear little creek runs through it. Pauly and I camped here in 2001 on a rainy night, after waiting out an electrical storm, and hung our bear bag from the broad oak. I really enjoyed seeing this verdant mountain pasture again. Near the end of my hike down through this valley, the darkening clouds broke loose. Durn! I thought I might get to the 19E Trailhead before it began to rain. There I ran into LoadRunner and Apricot, also waiting for Bob. I hadn't seen them since our exciting snow-and-river-fording day above Erwin. By the time Bob came, we had eight soaked hikers to cram into his five-person SUV. We all drove back to Kincorra and dried out. Today, I went over the 400-mile mark. Wahoo! Still walking! PS. I have just been informed that the great state of North Carolina is behind me. Though we have been crossing the NC/TN state line back and forth for weeks, I walked out of NC totally the day I did the Humps.