Date: 2004-04-20
From: Sarvar Hollow, VA

To: Day 42: Four Pines Hostel on VA 624, VA
Miles today: 21.9
Weather: scattered clouds

As usual, AT Day 42 began 5:00 a.m., and after eating and repacking and climbing the 300 or so feet back up to the AT, I began my day¢s hike around 6:50 a.m. As I have mentioned before in this journal, I just love sunrises while hiking on the AT, so the trail approaching the Niday Shelter was particularly pretty and interesting since it contained long stretches of exciting traverses across the Sinking Creek Mountain top ridges. The latter is highlighted with the trail crossing large sheer rocks slanting off severely to either side ¢ this is known as a ¢knife edge.¢ Luckily since it was so dry (I know, first I complain about the dry weather and then ¢¦) the footing was very secure and I never felt in danger.Shortly after completing this rather fun section, I came across two AT through hikers headed south, Bloody Cactus (from Australia) and Xena. When I questioned their direction, they told me that they were indeed headed to ME, but that after a March 1 start in GA, they jumped ahead when they reached Erwin, TN since they were concerned about the high amounts of snow in the mountains. I proudly told them that I just ¢plowed through¢ the snow. Feeling a bit pumped-up by this bravado, I hastened off to the Niday Shelter for my morning snack and water break. I really needed the latter since shortly thereafter, I knew I was to be challenged by a 1,500-foot climb up a sunny, but increasingly humid mountain to reach a long ridge highlighted by the presence of the Audie Murphy Monument. The latter was erected by the Veterans of Foreign Wars to commemorate the site where this, the most decorated hero of the entire Second World War, died in a small airplane crash in 1971. I took pictures, ate my lunch and did some serious thinking about my father, Audie Murphy and others who fought in this most unfortunate war.After descending from this mountain, I met up with Mello, the young through hiker from Arkansas who helped me through the raging torrents of the Little Wolf Creek a week earlier, as he was resting at the frankly tranquil Trout Creek. We chatted for a few minutes and then he took off for the Pickle Branch Shelter and beyond. I downed an energy bar, drank a pint of cold water freshly filtered from the stream and rejoined the trek myself. Even though it was around 5:30 p.m. I wasn¢t particularly concerned by the fact that it was seven miles to the 4 Pines Hostel where Mello and I both planned to spend the night ¢ perhaps it would have been better if I had done my homework on the trail profile, geography and the weather forecast¢¦Well the hike up to the Pickle Branch Shelter was easy enough, along the way I met two women section hikers coming down who asked me if I was going to try and beat the rain. With another example of my foolish male bravado I said that I welcomed the rain since it would cool me off as I climb up and over Dragons Tooth. Luckily I had enough sense to put on my pack cover, but I shunned the Gore-Tex jacket and pants in favor of letting the rain rinse off my clothes and salt-streaked body. At first the rain felt terrific as I negotiated the 1,500-foot climb up the mountain, but as I neared the crest of the ridge, the wind picked up, the temperature began to drop, and the footing got more and more insecure on the extremely rocky trail. To make matters worse, in addition to the light rain, as I carefully crossed the highly exposed ridge I could hear thunder in the background and I tried to pick up the pace as I warily looked around for lightning. I knew I shouldn¢t be on ridge in a storm, but I had nowhere else to go so I used the adrenalin to provide a much-needed early evening energy boost. I also must admit that more than once I thought about how much I envied the youth and long legs that allowed Mello (and other similarly-equipped AT through hikers) to rapidly get across hurdles like this.When I finally reached the pinnacle of the Dragons Tooth climb, my shirt and pants were soaked, but the rain had stopped and the temperature seemed to have risen slightly even though it was near 6:30 p.m., so I thought my adventure was over and I could look forward to a rapid race against the fading light as I descended the mountain to the highway and the short walk the hostel for a shower, dinner, security and rest. Had I done my homework I would have known that after you reach the top of Dragons Tooth, the north-going AT through hiker¢s fun has just begun since the descent is clearly much more challenging ¢ make that treacherous. Not only did the descent include steep hand-over hand rock climbs, the rocks were wet and sometimes quite slippery. Luckily in several places, the trail-establishers had taken pity on us novice rock climbers and installed steel ladder steps, but in LOTS of other places there were no such aides, and the climb down seemed to take forever as I had to muster up my courage while I carefully planned my hand and foot placements ¢ belly toward the mountain ¢ before I could proceed.About a third of the way down the most difficult portions of this descent I came across three trail runners making their ascent. I told them that while I sure envied the lightness of their gear and their youth, they seemed to have picked a bad day to try to run up this mountain. I let them pass and made a silent vow that I would get down before they passed me on their return trip ¢ male machismo is really stupid sometimes. Luckily, even in my haste, I was sufficiently careful in going down that I didn¢t fall once. When I reached the smoother primarily dirt trail, I was able to turn up the speed by doing my now well-controlled (after my earlier experience where I injured my right calf muscle) ¢jog-hike¢ all the way down to VA 624 ¢ hearing, but never seeing or being passed by the trail runners. When I hit the highway there was a welcoming sign stating that the 4 Pines Hostel was 0.3 miles to the east. So in relief, I walked up the highway in the rapidly fading light and reached the hostel shortly before 8:00 p.m. ¢ a long day and a long hard hike of 21.9 miles.Reaching the hostel, actually a huge six car, heated, brick garage behind a lovely brick farm house, I was greeted by Mello who had already taken a hot shower and a couple of other hikers including Haiku, who I had been chasing for the past week. One of the hikers was already fast asleep on one of the many mattresses available for us to use. I quickly picked out a spot to sleep, took off my wet clothes, and jumped in the shower to warm up. I had barely gotten out of the shower and dried myself with the small hand-towel I carry, when a two other hikers showed up. Actually these guys had been their earlier, but they and the others were in the process of ordering and consuming beer and pizza. It was too late for me to be included, besides I told them that I would rather stick to my standard diet during a hike. It turned out that the latter was particularly easy to fix, as the hostel proprietor, Joe Mitchell, had equipped the place with a hot plate, microwave, potable water faucet and a coin-operated (50 cents) soft drink machine. All this and all he asked for in return was that we sign the register, allow our picture to be taken, clean up after ourselves and provide a ¢donation.¢ I picked up one of his business cards and I will definitely contact him again after my hike is over to reaffirm my extreme gratitude for his kindness. As an aside, the need for this hostel is greatly amplified by the fact that the US Forest Service has banned all camping except at the shelters between the highway on which this hostel is found and US 220, 25.5 miles away ¢ so if you go over Dragons Tooth you either stay at this lovely hostel or you hike at least another 6.9 miles, something that I know I couldn¢t have done that night after my grueling day.