Date: 2007-09-03
From: Gorham, NH

To: Gentian Pond Campsite
Miles today: 11.8
Weather: clear sky

I got a later start back on the trail this AM than I had intended, not heading up the trail until about 10.45. First, I had to walk about a mile of road from the Rattle River trailhead down to the bridge across the Androscoggin River then back upstream to the Mahoosuc Trail. Torpedo and her boyfriend and his yellow lab were at the Rattle River trailhead getting ready to go so we talked a few minutes before I set off, hoping to see them again up the trail later in the day.The trail today climbed to the crest of the Mahoosuc Mt range then described a big semi-circle to the northwest, north, and finally east, ending at the shelter barely 5 miles distant fom the trailhead where I had begun the day's hike.The day's hike was mostly a series of climbs and descents that stair stepped up 2,000' to the top of Wockett Ledge, then back down again to Gentian Pond Shelter. I had expected the Mahoosucs to be a very steep and rugged mt range but the day's climbs were generally not as steep or rocky as I had expected. I've been hearing for decades about how tough, rugged, wild and remote the Mahoosucs are and have been looking forward to hiking them since the beginning of my trip.The weather for the day was relatively warm temps, high of 75, and clear blue skies with a strong and gusty NW wind. The open ledges of Cascade Mt and Wockett Ledge provided some excellent views of Mt Madison and Washington and the north end of the rugged Carter-Moriah range. The only consistent signs of human development were regular views of the dam on the Androscoggin River and the town of Gorham. But overall, we now seem to walking thru and overlooking forests and mountains that are much more remote than the higher peaks of the White Mts that we have just crossed and left behind. We now seem to be leaving the populated high peaks country and heading into some truly wild and remote corners of NH and ME.Signs that we are finally in the northwoods are everywhere. Signs like tracks and large groups of moose pellets regularly occur in the trail. The dominant trees are now balsam fir and red spruce, and the rock ledges and wet areas are often covered with thick carpets of reindeer lichen, rhodora and sphagnum moss. Shallow ponds and bogs are becoming more common along the trail, even on the crest of ridgetops. I passed 4 small ponds during today's relatively short hike and each one was ringed by mossy banks. Each looked like there should be a moose standing out in the middle pulling aquatic veg up from the floor of the pond. Unfortunately I saw no moose today. But, ravens are common and daily occurrence now rather than a bird to note as it passed by. Golden-crowned kinglets, red-breasted nuthatches and chickadees are frequently flocking together now, a sure sign that the chill temps of autumn are not far away.It is good to finally be in the more remote north country and leaving behind the hustling crowds of the White Mts. I loved the wide open vistas from the alpine ridges of the high peaks. But, I am glad to be leaving the crowds behind. I am also ancious to be entering our 14th and final state, which I hope to do tomorrow. After 5 months of walking ever northward, Maine is now just around the corner. The shelter is full tonight with thru-hikers I know and have hiked with for months. There is Popeye and Lightweight, JB, Gypsy Spirit and Speaks Little, Iceman, Shadow and Numbtoes, and Rhode Island Red. Buffalo Bobby should be somewhere nearby but no one seems to know where he is. We are all ancious to be entering ME tomorrow.