Date: 2004-04-06
From: Roan High Knob Shelter

To: Boone, NC?!
Miles today: 15.2

I had left Erwin several days earlier well rested, and I had believed the weather had changed. Yes, at lower elevations it was quite mild, but as the trail started climbing up into the mountains outside of Erwin, the snow appeared again, and then the chilling cold, which was nearly more than my scant, three-season gear could take.Last night was particularly brutal. The shelter up here was an old cabin, and I was certainly thankful for that extra wall to protect me from the wind and the cold. I was alone, and I slept in the loft. I froze all night in my 20 degree sleeping bag, and in the morning, I woke up to frozen boots again. At least most of my gear was dry this time. Putting on frozen boots is no fun. I carried two pairs of socks. The pair I wore yesterday had frozen stiff during the night; I would have to stick my warm, dry pair into these awful boots.I was tired and cold, and out of water. Up here, everything was frozen. When it got cold like this, my water consumption always took a serious hit. Afterall, the water was either frozen, or I was too cold to set off in search of any. As I was eating my breakfast, I frequently checked the guidebook for motels near the trail where I could hole up for the night. These nights of cold had sucked away my energy, and I didn't think I could take another sleepless night freezing away in my sleeping bag. And I didn't want to put on frozen boots again tomorrow!I set off at 8, and shortly came to a road crossing. I decided to continue on, and I crossed over the top of Round Bald. I could see that much of the day ahead would be above treeline. The weather was sunny, but today was different from the past week. The wind was especially mild, and the air was actually starting to warm. Yes, there was still a lot of snow on the ground, but as I continued along, evidence of melting was everywhere. Large patches of grass were everywhere, and it was even warm enough to wear a t-shirt. This stretch of trail was particularly amazing, and I took my time, enjoying the incredible views as I climbed over each grassy knoll.By the time I had reached Hump Mountain, the last of the Balds of the Roan Highlands, the day had really turned around, into one of the most spectacular on the whole trail. About 100 yards below the summit, I met up with Slim, Biscut, and LWOP. I had met them in Erwin; now they were sunning themselves on a giant rock, and I did the same. We all hung out on the rock for perhaps another two hours. I managed to dry out everything except my boots. Wow, I thought, now I won't have to find a motel tonight.Around 3pm, Grey Fox, a thru-hiker who was slackpacking, approached us from the South. He was getting picked up at the next road crossing five miles north. He lived in Boone, and he invited us to come back to Boone for the night, including a trip to the Golden Coral Buffet. It was an offer none of us could refuse. We packed up as quickly as possible, and shot down the remaining five miles of trail. Then the six of us stuffed ourselves, and our packs into a small car and rode onto his appartment in Boone, NC. I went and bought flip-flops so I could get out of my wet boots, and then we headed to the buffet and chowed down. Then we headed back to the appartment, for a quiet, peaceful night of rest. Definitely a big thank you to Grey Fox for bringing us out to eat and providing us a warm place to sleep. The trail really brought out the best in humanity, and I am forever grateful to all those who helped me along the way.