Date: 2017-05-16
From: Blackburn AT Center 

To: ATC office, Harpers Ferry
Miles today: 11.9
Weather: clear sky

I woke several times during the night, thinking about the end of my hike. I rose late to a beautiful day and had a good chat with the caretaker Cheryl before setting out. A LASHer herself, she had moved in just yesterday for the summer. I had hoped to camp one last night just beyond Harpers Ferry, but I couldn't find any good options in AWOL. So I took advantage of cell service at Buzzard Rocks to reserve two nights at the Econolodge in Harpers Ferry. Then I strolled along slowly, savoring the last few miles. Perhaps too slowly. Around noon I realized I'd need to pick up the pace to reach the ATC office before they closed at 5:00. There were only a few day hikers on the trail, and they seemed less friendly now that we were closer to big cities. An exception was a woman about my age backpacking southbound with two adult children. She was out for a 4-5 day shakedown before starting a SOBO thru-hike from Maine next month. She seemed a little short on confidence, so I encouraged her as much as I could. A little, just a little, self-doubt may actually increase your chances of success on a task as difficult as a thru-hike.As I neared Harpers Ferry, the reality of finishing started to sink in. At trail mile 1023.1, a blue-blazed side trail leaves the AT and leads uphill to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Visitors Center, my destination. Turning onto that trail brought on more emotion than I expected. I was glad I had reached Harpers Ferry and I was pleased that I had "survived" 42 days on the trail, but I was also sad. I'll miss the peacefulness of the woods, the time for deep contemplation, the simple lifestyle, the physical and psychological challenges, and most of all, the trail community. Alone at this point, I shed a few tears.At the ATC office, I got a warm welcome from the staff, had my photo taken in front of the building, and was escorted to the hikers' lounge at the back. The ATC office was a strange experience. In addition to hikers, it attracts a lot of people who are just curious or who may have walked a couple miles on the trail. Mostly they marvel at why anybody would want to walk the entire trail. They peer into the hikers lounge as if it were a zoo, with its scruffy, smelly inhabitants having relaxed conversations among themselves. One asked, "What do they do when it rains?" I'll miss being in that back room with what are, but will no longer be, my peeps.Among other hikers, Squire was there with his sons Remix and Stretch, ages 12 and 14. They'd been doing big miles, and I thought they were several days ahead of me. Turns out they were. They've shuttled back to Harpers Ferry to attempt the 4-state challenge: 4 states in one day. They were preparing to hike 43 miles of mountain trail in 24 hours, starting at midnight. Remarkable that they'd even consider it!Reluctantly, I left the ATC office and checked into my motel. I went to dinner alone at a small pizza place. I was feeling melancholy until seven other hikers, including Hoops and Sitting Bull, walked in. Joining them and sharing a few beers cheered me up. For one last hour, I was still part of the trail community. MORE TO COME: I'll be back in the next few days with some final thoughts, lessons learned, and a link to photos. I'll also add a few more comments on clothing and gear.