Date: 2015-11-14
From: Calf Mountain Shelter

To: Waynesboro, VA
Miles today: 7.6
Weather: clear sky

I was REALLY looking forward to heading into town today. I had not slept indoors or had a shower since Front Royal on 11/3. A cold front was coming. I was already getting tired of sleeping in the cold night after night. Tonight was supposed to be really windy and cold. I love the AT, but sometimes I need some town time. I got up early and quickly dressed. It was very cold. I packed up as quickly as possible, but repeatedly had to take my gloves off to work zippers and clips. I was pretty cold and my fingers were numb by the time everything was packed. I was grateful the AT was taking me up and over Calf Moutain and then Little Calf Mountain. The climbs would warm me up.From the mountain tops I could look across Beagle Gap to Bears Den Mt. with all the communications towers perched on top. While it was nice to have cell coverage or wifi, or both, throughout most of the park, I hated to see the towers on a mountain top - a modern necessary evil I guess.The descent into Beagle Gap and the climb out were relatively easy. I was surprised to see the giant radar ball for a nearby airport so close to the AT (it looks like a giant soccer ball, complete with seams which appeared to be stitched). The AT guide mentioned tractor seats. Sure enough, in a small field near the communication towers were a few tractor seats with the stems anchored in the ground. It was too cold and windy for me to stop and have a seat. I imagine the metal seats were VERY cold, so it is just as well. I kept moving.The last portion of Shenandoah N.P. was probably the most difficult. The AT was barely a trail - rocky, on the side of the mountains, and full of PUDs (Pointless Ups and Downs). The profile in the AT guide made it look easy - it obviously lied. What should have been an easy hike into town was an ankle twisting rock patch.I ran into a father daughter pair and a single young guy, all with huge packs and all headed to Calf Mt. shelter for the night. I warned them about the weather and told them the shelter was extremely cold last night, and would be even colder tonight. They all assured me they were prepared for the cold. I sure hope so.I passed the park entrance station for self registering for backcountry permits and then the trail thankfully got better.I was not looking forward to hitch hiking into town. It was as if someone read my mind. Attached to a tree, just before Rockfish Gap, was a list of people willing to shuttle hikers, some for free and some for a fee. I took a picture of the list.Rockfish Gap is a busy place. In addition to US 250, which goes to Waynesboro, the immediate area also has I-64 and the entrance to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I decided to walk a short ways to a popcorn stand and figure out what to do. Because of the heavy traffic in the area, hitch hiking was unsafe and out of the question.I bought a bag of popcorn and called a lady (Cindy) on the free ride list. She said she would pick me up in 10 minutes. I ate the popcorn while I waited. As promised, Cindy arrived a few minutes later and took me to the Quality Inn in Waynesboro. On the way she gave me the scoop about places to eat and laundromats in Waynesboro. She also gave me a copy of a very handy map which the town apparently made just to help visiting hikers. First the shuttle list and now the map, Waynesboro really seems to have their act together when it comes to welcoming hikers! I offered Cindy some money for her trouble, which she refused.I checked into my room and spent the rest of the day napping and trying to get warm. I felt like I was chilled to the core, and I was exhausted. Tonight the temperature in the valley dipped into the 20's. Which means that the temperature up in the mountains was even less (3-5 degress less for every 1,000 feet of elevation).I had planned to go to Ming's Chinese Buffet for dinner, but instead had 2 medium super supreme pizzas delivered from Pizza Hut. I did not want to go out in the cold and I really needed the calories.Whenever I get to town I strip down and check myself in the mirror for ticks. This time I was shocked by what I saw.   I lost a lot more weight. My face was very thin and I had bags under my eyes. I also had loose skin hanging on various parts of my body, and bones sticking out in a few places. It appeared that I had now lost over 50 pounds since starting the AT. I looked like a prisoner of war, and frankly it scared me. (Now I understand some of the strange looks I received lately.) Hopefully the pizzas would put some of weight back on my bones.I ate pizza and watched the Democratic candidates debate. (So far I have only missed 1 of the debates.) Then I went to sleep.The AT is calling. I love the AT, but I need some town time, especially some sleep, indoors, away from the wind, in a warm bed.