Date: 2014-06-10
From: Luray via Thornton Gap

To: Gravel Springs Hut
Miles today: 14.3
Weather: broken clouds

When Sherpa and Mrs. Sherpa dropped Granders and me at Walmart last night, they gave me their phone numbers in case we needed additional assistance while in town. This morning we asked around to see if there was a shuttle back to the AT for thru-hikers and found out there was none. So while Granders and I ate breakfast at the Best Western (the Budget Inn where we stayed was far too sketchy to serve food), I called Sherpa to ask for a ride back to Thornton Gap. He arranged to pick us up at 9:00, which gave us plenty of time for a leisurely meal that included several refills of coffee for me and tea for Granders. Within a few minutes of the appointed time, Sherpa and his wife arrived and drove us back to the trail. As a result of so many kind acts like this, it really can be said that "The Trail Provides." Thank you so much Sherpa and Mrs. Sherpa!Granders and I leapfrogged Thor the Red, ABear, and Vista all day yesterday, so when we had to change plans late in the afternoon and hitch into town, I was concerned that the others would worry about us when we failed to arrive at the shelter last night, so I texted Thor and ABear from town. When we eventually arrived at the shelter this morning, I was surprised to see a familiar set of poles leaning against the wall and an equally familiar shirt hanging from a rafter. It turned out Thor was stricken with the Noro virus overnight and as a result was staying put, with Vista hanging around to keep him company. This virus has run rampant through the thru-hiker community and afflicted a majority of hikers I've hiked with. Looking back, I suspect I had it the night after my marathon hike to Sam's Gap; Kimpossible may have had it in Hiawassee, GA; ABear, Scout, and Shinook had it in Daleville; and Shellback had it last night at Byrds Nest #3 Hut, two shelters back. The virus hits the victim's GI tract suddenly and fiercely and typically lasts a day or two.Granders seems to have an affinity for wildlife, or perhaps it for him. Today, on our way to the Elkwallow Wayside, he suddenly stopped dead in his tracks and jumped backwards, which almost caused a minor collision because I was tailgating him. Turns out he'd spotted a full grown rattlesnake stationed in the grass with its head inches from the trail. True to form, the rattler held its ground and began to rattle as I approached. After taking a couple of pictures, I bushwhacked around it, keeping a safe distance on the far side of the trail. Granders did the same, keeping an even safer distance. And unlike during yesterday's bear sighting, he had no interest in being in the foreground of today's picture.Back in March, when I was chomping at the bit to start my AT hike and I'd exhausted every thru-hiking book available from Amazon, I turned to trailjournals.com to get my fix of AT-related reading material. One of the journals I came across was by Flinch, a 62-year-old fellow New Englander from Maine, who started her thru-hike in March. She's an excellent writer who gave me a taste for what I would be experiencing when I hit the trail in April. After starting my hike, I came to understand more fully what I had read in Flinch's journal because I was living it myself. However, I kept reading her for the sheer entertainment value.Early on, Flinch was hiking shorter days and taking more zeros than me, so I could see from following her journal that I was slowly gaining on her and would eventually catch her. In reaching the James River, where I got off the trail for the weekend to be with my wife, Tor, I was just a day behind. I got close again in Waynesboro, when she zeroed and left town the day I arrived. Today, I finally caught her. Upon rolling into the Gravel Springs Hut, the mythical figure I'd been chasing for over two months became reality. It was great meeting Flinch and discussing hikers we'd both crossed paths with, including AZ, ABear, Just Paul, and Tortoise, AKA Tortellini.