Date: 2020-08-19
From: Delaware Water Gap

To: Catfish firetower
Miles today: 12.8

My plan was to do 24 miles today. It didn't happen. And I'm okay with that.I missed a morning drizzle in Delaware Water Gap thanks to my motel stay. The mountains were covered in clouds. My tent and all the other gear dried out nicely in the AC, and I managed to clean up enough dirt and debris to look like a normal car tourist had stayed there. Grabbed breakfast at Dunkin Donuts next door and took my time packing up. I'm really not good at getting out of town early. Must have been 10:30 by the time I left.The I-80 bridge over the Delaware River vibrated with traffic as I walked along the narrow pedestrian cattleshoot. Halfway across the state line is painted on the pavement. I'm now in New Jersey, my eighth state! The national park office was closed but the trailhead was full of cars, even on a Wednesday morning. New Jersey started out on a good note. I walked up the picturesque Dunnfield Creek before an easy climb up to the ridge, where forest alternated with open bedrock stretches.  I spied a deer on the trail ahead staring at me as if caught in the headlights. As I approached I saw three more were strung out along the trail, including one or two still with spots, all frozen in place watching me. I walked slowly and nonchalantly pulled out my camera. But as I raised it, as if on signal, all four turned in unison and bolted into the brush. What a scene!Sunfish Pond is billed as New Jersey's only glacial pond, a remnant of the last Ice Age. No swimming is permitted so as not to disturb the unique habitat. The trail around the shore is rocky and full of snakes. I only saw black rat snakes, but I'm sure there were rattlers lurking where I heard unseen movement.As I progressed slowly, stopping to set up timer shots and gaze over the water, I got to thinking how I've started planning the remainder of the hike a little too closely. I had calculated I must average 22 miles a day to New Hampshire, 15 a day through the Whites, etc. to get to Katahdin by October 7th. That means I should get to the Hudson in five days. Stay at a hostel in two days. Resupply here, here, and here. It all leaves little room for spontaneity. Yesterday's marathon trudge made good time, but left me feeling empty. I need to cover the miles, sure, but I also need to remain flexible and let life happen. So I walked into the AMC Mohican Center after ten miles feeling a little played out. It's been a gorgeous day for hiking - partly sunny, high seventies, low humidity - and already New Jersey has had scenic creeks, lakes, a glacial pond and open ridges with a 360 degree view. So why am I run down?The caretaker took my food order and asked if wanted to stay the night. "No, no!" I laughed, "I'd love to but I'd never get to Maine!" It was an automatic response generated by my inner scheduler. I relaxed on a sofa while the food was made and charged my phone. It was quiet, but a steady stream of hikers went by, some staying in cabins and others dayhiking. Got to talking with a backpacker named Bumblebee who started in Shenandoah last month and hiked most of the AT last year. He convinced me to join him tenting at a firetower just a couple miles away. My plan had me hiking 14 more miles. But given it was already 5 in the afternoon (where did the time go?), that wasn't happening.So I walked up to the firetower and pitched my tent on the grassy lawn, trying to avoid the rocks buried throughout. A dayhiker chatted and left, then two guys from central Jersey came up, having ridden mountain bikes much of the way. The very Jersey-tawkin' guy and his teenage stepson were on a little adventure and were in wide-eyed awe of the ridge, the view, the firetower, the AT, and the fact that we could camp here. They climbed the tower with a GoPro and had a lot of trouble with the height, couldn't get more than halfway. They settled in on the lawn for the sunset but, having no headlamps, had to leave early to find their way back to the car. Promised they were coming back here to camp the next day.Another backpacker came in, a German who's lived in Princeton for several years. He's out for several days. Went down the ridge a bit to set up a hammock. The sky was clear and the sunset was like molten iron sinking into the hill. After awhile some stars peeped out, and eventually became a chorus. A chill wind picked up and drove me into the tent, puffy on and sleeping bag pulled up. I could use my winter gear tonight.