Date: 2017-04-09
From: Silers Bald shelter

To: Clingman's Dome then Gatlinburg
Miles today: 4.6
Weather: broken clouds

From Fatboy:We had our mission for miles today and began our climb. Silers Bald is about 5 miles from Clingman's Dome, the highest peak on the AT at 6667 feet. It was a climb. There was also the most fun trail magic I've seen to date. We found a tree with grocery bags hanging from the branches and some angel gifted the hikers with candy bars, crackers, donuts, and poptarts. We made it to Clingman's Dome observation tower around 1330 and were kind of resting in the grass before going up. There were lots of non-hikers milling about and they looked so much different from us. They were clean and we're wearing denim and cotton t-shirts. They even looked well fed and smelled good too! I didn't notice anyone staring at us but I wouldn't have blamed them for it. We were muddy, stained, walked with a very obvious painful gait, and smelled really bad. I tried hard not to offend anyone. As Ginger and I approached the tower ramp a lady in a bright chartreuse t-shirt asked me if we were thru hikers. I don't remember my exact response but I think I apologized for my scent. She said it was because we were wearing gaiters over our lower pant legs. I did verify her guess and she asked me what we were doing today. When I told her we were trying to find a way into Gatlinburg she replied that she would take us. Gatlinburg is about 20 miles from Clingman's Dome so this was a significant gift. Ginger and I were both very grateful and I was moved to tears. Without this angel's gift we would have had about another 6 miles of hiking and likely had to hitch hike into Gatlinburg. It turns out that her companion had thru hiked in 2004 and she was hoping to hike some sections after she's fully recovered from her second knee replacement. We were delivered right to the door of our hotel and had some photos with our latest angels. As a parting gift these lovely people gave us their contact information and offered us a ride and a place to stay when we get nearer his property further north in Tennessee. I never imagined I would be treated with such kindness from strangers or that I would be blessed with such a wonderful wife. My life is amazing.From Ginger:I have to acknowledge a rocky start to the day. Nathan detects it when I'm quiet, and he gives me the space I need. He never presses. What a partner.I was having trouble practicing love and tolerance for all the pot-smoking that goes on out here ... and its obvious effect on people's demeanor, actions, conversations. Anyway, we paused on the trail, and I restarted my day. Prayer answered: clearer mind.We hiked through a bit of mud and a ton of snow uphill. I felt energized by the sun's occasional streams through the dense pines here. This section was truly wooded. And thick. We basically marched up a frozen slalom run. I like the uphills. I imagine my individual muscles working, propelling me forward. It's another workout.We stopped at what turned out to be false summit No. 1 or 2 (searching for Clingman's Dome), had lunch and were able to make a hotel reservation in Gatlinburg. What a difference a day makes. We were told it would be impossible (or super expensive) to stay in Gatlinburg on Saturday night. And to get a ride from Clingman's Dome. Well, we got to Gatlinburg a day later, so things cleared out, and all I can say about the ride down is that's God's grace. I think I owe the Smokies an apology. They just showed me heaven here on Earth. As if Nathan surviving the night before wasn't generous enough. We are both blessed beyond measure.