Date: 2018-09-10
From: Bigelow Lean-to

To: Pierce Pond
Miles today: 18.3
Weather: overcast clouds

Set my alarm for 4am last night and thought I¢d get up and try to haul it across Maine to make the ferry. (It stops running at 2pm and is 21.7 miles from me) Woke up at 1:15am and realized only a couple more hours wouldn¢t be enough. Those Bigelows wore me out! Turned off the alarm and didn¢t emerge from the sleeping bag until 7:15am...ah well, HYOHSpent the morning leisurely packing up and readying for the day. Muscles were a little sore from yesterday¢s traverse so no rush. The miles would come...Hung out and had breakfast, and even a second cup of joe, chatting with Bluegrass. Rolled out at 8:30...& quickly took first break at 9:15 by Flagstaff Lake. So very peaceful- wish my pictures could capture it (but will carry it in my memory forever). Did a mile walking with Old Growth (he blogs on the trek.com) before stretching my pace a little then walked with a youngster, Gusher, for a bit before his fast pace wore me down. At 1:00, pulled on the sandy beach along the shore of East Carry Pond (part of Benedict Arnold¢s portage in the 1775 attack on Quebec. The AT follows this exact route for many miles to the Kennebec River). Relaxed awhile as I already had 11.5 miles under the belt today. Slightly overcast, a scrim of clouds not only blunted the warming sun but foretold of bad weather on the horizon. Not looking forward to the rains coming so this big mile day was needed.And what a day to do big miles... For the first time in Maine, the elevation change was muted and it was as if Old Mother Nature herself decided to walk along beside me. The wind rushed through the pines playing its tune all day and even tossed some yellow and red leaves to the forest floor, compliments of the latest cold snap. It was one of those magic days when the enchantment of the forest is palpable. Unfortunately it seems most humans feel as though the natural world is something to fight or tame. (We work hard to control everything from the level of dirt to the air temperature.) Once read that this stems from a view of ourselves as being ¢born into this world¢. Like invaders. We are at odds with it rather than realizing that we are born out of it. Like leaves from a tree. And today, as I walked amongst the giant hemlocks through the great north woods, my place in it felt secure and right. The long grasses moving with the current in the bog, the branches swaying in the breeze, the water dancing down the gravel shallows...and my walking... were all in harmony. So the miles rolled by. At 4:00 I had done 18 miles and took a blue blaze trail off the AT proper to Harrison¢s camp at Pierce Pond Stream. A hunting and fishing camp by trade, this rustic spot also treats hikers warmly. Inquired with Tim (the owner) about getting a bed and thankfully got his last cabin. Worth every cent of the $28 (cash only). Hot shower, roof over my head, and a big breakfast promised at 7am tomorrow (this is legendary on the AT. Folks call ahead from the lean-to up the trail to get some. 12 pancakes, 3 eggs and sausages, juice and coffee). By 4:30, had boots off and hot tea on the porch. By 5:15, was fresh n clean. By 6:30, was full from dinner. Then a quick wood stove burn to heat the log cabin (love a wood stove in the room) and off to bed. Typing up the journal this evening but still unable to post as there is no cell service out here. Tomorrow, despite a 1¢ of rain forecast, plan to hike down and ferry across the Kennebec River. Should have cell service in Caratunk (village on other side) and will post the last couple days.Song of the Day: No headphones today as the world all around seemed to talk to me. Life is Amazing. Stop & smell the roses!