Date: 2016-04-17
From: Vanderventer Shelter

To: Damascus, VA
Miles today: 93.0
Weather: clear sky

A good week of hiking. Weather was still cold early in the week, but the last day of 20 degree weather was sometime back on Roan Mountain. It has improved to pleasant and even in the mornings I am finding that I am no longer shivering. It's amazing the difference that makes psychologically.    Spent most of the last few weeks weaving between the North Carolina and Tennessee boarder, but left North Carolina behind back on mile 394 and have been solidly in the Northeastern Corner of Tennessee. Should reach Damascus in approximately 3 days which is the first major stop in Virginia. Virginia is the longest state for the AT. So once in it, I will be there for about 600 miles.   Been walking very steadily with Portuguese and spent a few days with a really nice woman named B Hiker. She has moved on but we were once again joined by Feral, who took some time off to tend to a foot issue, but has since caught up to us. Glad for it.   Been often able to get cell service on the "Balds". These are the mountain top domes that have no trees, only grass. Beautiful 360 degree views from up here often gives an unobstructed signal. I tend to stop on these points, turn on the phone. If I have a signal, will call home to talk with my wife, my parents, my kids, a few friends. The voice contact, although minimal, is reassuring all around. Interesting how 100 feet in any direction will change the phone signal, you just never know. I stayed last night on top of a mountain. 4 miles from it, I had a signal so was really believing I would have one at the top. Was disappointed when I camped to find that the service was no longer there. You just can't predict it.       Staying away from hiker shelters tonight r/t an unsettling issue with bears the last night. It seems a hungry bear was trying to get the packs out of the tree (attached picture shows how I safely stow my food bag every night-a huge safety precaution). But unfortunately, a fellow hiker decided to keep a candy bar in his pants-- in his tent. The bear smelled it out, ripped through the tent with the sleeping hiker inside, and took the pants with the candy. Thankfully- the hiker was not in them at the time and he was untouched. A good reminder to all.    I did have a interaction with another sunning snake today- this one directly laying across the trail. Unfortunately it was in an area where veering off the trail to go around it was not an option. So- I had to move it. Although not experienced with snakes in general, I did't believe it was poisonous. It was not red and did not rattle, but it was definitely the biggest one I have ever seen. So I poked it gently with my walking stick to prod it along. When it decided to slither toward me, I had to poke it again and then it took off in another direction. Path clear once more for us to continue on our way.   Also walked near a forest fire yesterday which was likely the result of an unextinguished campfire. Although the fire didn't cross the trail (they were going to close it down if it did), we did walk through some smoke for a time.    I get so many question about if I "like" it out here.   There is such a range of feelings and circumstance that I can only say that I do like it very much a certain percentage of the time. 45% of the time, I really like the adventure and the self-sufficiency. 45%-the hard physical and mental work make me question the choice. 10% of the time, usually when I'm cold and wet, I can say I hate it-this is when I question the longevity. And although there is monotony in the daily routine, there is also satisfaction in carrying everything I need on my back, in knowing that I can drink from a nearby stream, and in resting comfortably on the mountain. There is a freedom in this I can't explain and makes me think I'll stay awhile.   Been able to put in a few more daily miles now. Plan to walk 14 miles tomorrow with Portuguese. Once I hit Damascus, plan to stay the night there.    Wondering- Are the additional miles I am able to walk the result of my getting stronger? Or am I just benefiting because the days are longer (and warmer)? A little of both, I think.