Date: 2003-09-08
From: Horseshoe Canyon Lean-to

To: ME 15, Monson
Miles today: 9.1
Weather: scattered clouds

The chilliest morning yet! I didn't want to get out of my sleeping bag, which was stretched to the edge of its comfort zone (mine too!). Later, the New Zealanders, who camped lower, said they had ice inside and outside their tent where condensation had frozen. So, it dropped below 32 last night. I'm pushing my 40-45 degree bag. But with extra clothes, I will survive, however uncomfortably.It was un unremarkable hike despite the stunning blue sky above. All right, one remark: I "forded" the East Fork of the Piscataquis RIVER (say Piz-CAT -a- kwis, three times fast) atop the rocks again. I am sure the 100 Mile Wilderness will break my record of "no fords in Maine." It's just that I had enough of those in Virginia and Maryland, thank you!Exiting the woods, it took us about 25 minutes to get a ride in a bad spot, as cars were moving fast on a curve. Ken and Marcia popped out of the woods a few minutes before the van stopped. We were dumped in town.Chief went off to check out the cheaper bunk, "The Pie Lady's" place, while I bought a chocolate milk at the general store and did pocketmail. As I finished, I saw Chief stomping back down the main street; her house had been open, but no Pie Lady. He wanted a room! He went down to Shaw's boarding house and found one.Meanwhile, Marcia stuck her thumb out, seeking food in the next town 12 miles away. Another van stops right away, and we three (Ken) go to Subway and a large grocery store.Ken and Marcia had done the 200-some-mile John Muir Trail twice, so I pumped them for specifics. They were generous about sharing details. I learned a lot in that Subway, and they further whetted my appetite for this western trail's beauty.Hitching back, we got the brushoff again until two local fishermen stopped. They were, we realized once we'd climbed into the wind-blown back, three sheets to the wind. They also had one front tooth between the two of them. But, by gum, they took us the 12 miles back to Monson. It was a ride to remember, "trail color."Back at The Pie Lady's, Tadpole and Hover had joined me in the cabin out back. I sorted food drops and made my plan for the remote 100 Mile Wilderness. I am going to break it up by stopping at White House Landing, a fishing camp with no electricity. I sent a box of food there. It's nearly 70 miles before that however. After the Smokies, I really didn't want to carry large quantities of food anymore. I found out Pie Lady can drop me 15 miles north, and I can hike back to Monson. That's one less day of food to carry.Chief is taking tomorrow off. He wants a zero day. I'd dearly like to take one too; I am tired. But now I am on a schedule, I have to be in Millinocket on the 18th. I'll use that extra day as "cushion" and rest up for the Katahdin ascent.I want to take my time in the Wilderness. Everyone says how "moosey" and beautiful it is. "They've saved the best for last," people tell me.So I will walk on alone. This actually suits me, despite Chief's good and helpful company. I want to have these last few days to walk by myself, to get a feel for my own rhythms once again before "re-entry" forces me to accommodate those of others. I want to spend a few nights away from the shelters, tenting by myself. A true retreat, as it were.My "last dance" in the woods.I also am drawn to spend the extra miles to do the famed Gulf Hagas loop. I'm told it's spectacular, "the Grand Canyon of the East," with waterfalls and swimming holes and vistas. Who knows when I'll get back this way?The weather report promises excellent weather. Cross your fingers!