Date: 2005-04-14
From: stealth camp newar VA 600, Elk Garden

To: stealth camp near VA 603, Fox Creek
Miles today: 16.9

start: stealth camp near VA 600, Elk Gardenfinish: stealth camp near VA 603, Fox Creek miles: 16.9day: 38Well, we were plenty warm enough last night, but it probably got down to 25 degrees based on the amount of ice on everything.  There was no snow on the ground where we camped - it must have been really wet snow which melted and then froze later.  We have 30 degree down bags.  They got a good test - and passed!The day started with a 1000 foot climb up to the base of Mount Rogers.  We got into about 1/2 inch of snow shortly after starting, and it was noticeably colder up higher.  The weather was clear, cold, and gorgeous - so unlike yesterday.  My spirits were very high and the miles went by easily.We didn't hurry, though, as the better part of the day was spent in the Grayson Highlands, a vast area of bald ridges and slopes dotted with a few trees and gnarly rock outcrops.  The area is home to a herd of feral ponies released into the park around 1974 to help keep the bald areas bald by eating the grass.  They're fairly tame and a couple of them came right up to us, especially when we reached into our packs for a few dried apricots.  We fed them a bit and petted them, and shooed them away.We killed time at each shelter we passed, enjoying the beautiful day.  Goldilocks and I hiked this section back in 2002, but it was even prettier than I remembered.  On this trip, so far, Max Patch, the Humps,  and Grayson Highlands are the standouts.Goldilocks has been carrying his new guitar from Damascus.  His pack, and my old one, don't have hip belts, which works just fine for us if the weight is minimal.  But the guitar tilts the scales.  Goldilocks never complains, but the last few days have been difficult, I can tell.  Today he tried my pack for a while (my new ULA P1), with and without the guitar, and he likes it.  Enough to form a plan to buy one at the earliest opportunity.  First we talked about ordering one by phone from Atkins, having it shipped to Pearisburg.  Then we decided on ordering from Troutdale, which we hit earlier.  Then we thought we'd get to Troutdale tomorrow morning and hitch back to Damascus, to the outfitters.  Well, we hiked along until we came to the 500 mile mark in our trip - YAY! - and then came to a road...  Quick, I hear a car, we could take THIS to Damascus, but which way is it?  Soon, I'm running out to the road holding up my hitching thumb, and the pickup truck stops!  Amazing.  We're trying to get to Damascus - is this the right direction?  It is.  Are you going there?  Hop in.  So, another wonderful ride in the back of a truck through beautiful country - just a bit chilly.  It was a long ride - I'm always amazed by how far we hike in three days.  As we got dropped off at the outfitter, Pete Jolly, our driver and Trail Angel, asks our plans.  See, he's coming back through here in an hour if we'd like a ride back to the very remote trailhead we just came from.  He's not really going there, but will take us, and it's not too far out of his way.  What luck!So we put it into gear, Goldilocks buying and loading his new pack, Jeff the outfitter making some custom straps for his guitar, and giving us some cold sodas to go with the bunch of tacos and salsa I ran down the street to get in the meantime.  All done in plenty of time, eating our tacos on the sidewalk waiting for our ride to return.So now we're back here at the trailhead just before dark, only 2-1/2 hours from when we left, and 1-1/2 hours of that spent in transit.  Thanks to Pete for the ride!  Thanks also to Jeff at MRO, the best outfitter I've ever dealt with.  VERY hiker friendly, and very knowledgeable about their products.The temperature is falling fast, and there is a stream not too far away making some nice white noise to sleep by.What a great day.