Date: 2009-06-03
From: Pocosin Cabin

To: Skyland Lodge
Miles today: 18.0

At 6 am, some of the members of the group staying in the cabin awoke and came outside. I got up, so they could sit at the picnic table. I ate breakfast while "B squared" and "Spaghetti" journaled. They were taking a course on hiking the AT, and asked me some questions about my thru-hike. I told them about Whiteblaze and Trail Journals for resources, packed up and got water,and then went on my way.     I was planning on going to Byrds Nest # 3 Hut (25 miles away) and bypassing the Big Meadows Wayside, but it was hot again, and I was struggling. I had been hoping to catch back up to Hellbender in time to potentially go to DC with him, but realized that I would practically kill myself in the meantime. I could either do that, or I could slow it down and actually enjoy what the Shenandoahs had to offer. I decided that I would take the 0.4 mile to the wayside and enjoy a burger. Unfortunately, I missed the turn-off for it, thinking the road I had come to was too early. At the top of the hill, I sat down on a rock and dug out my tuna. An elderly couple came along, looking for the parking lot where their car was at. It was 0.6 miles away. The man started grumbling and complaining about how far that was! I was dumbstruck, not knowing if he was joking. I wish I had 0.6 miles to go and not 15!! This just wasn't fun. I called Erik and talked to him about my thoughts and dilemmas. Then, along came Single Speed, happy as a clam. "Isn't this great hiking?!" he exclaimed. He had just gotten the last breakfast at the wayside- a breakfast sandwich, a coffee, and a cinnammon bun. I asked him where he was headed and he said "Skyland Lodge" to pamper himself. I said that I was contemplating whether or not I should stop there for dinner. He encouraged me to do so and said he hoped to see me there.   I saw a campground up the hill to my right and took a sidepath to fill up my water. A little ways ahead, I saw a juvenile bear cross the trail, oblivious to my presence. When he finally saw me, he ran away into the woods. I wondered what he was doing up in the middle of the day.   I bypassed Rock Spring Hut and climbed up Hawksbill Mountain, which was quite steep. Nearing the top, I saw a half gallon jug with a little bit of water in it! It didn't say who it was for, but I figured it must be trail magic- my first bit in a long time! I poured some into my Nalgene. It had a lemon-ny aftertaste. I looked at the jug and saw it was a milk container... Hmmm, maybe I should not have drunk this! I still had several more miles to get to Skyland. I had hoped to get there before dinner started at 5:30 so I could clean up and rest a bit.   I passed some horse stables and then saw a sign pointing to the lodge. I thought I had 0.1 miles to get there, but the road kept going and going (uphill) with no lodge in sight! Many cars passed by but none offered to take me. I looked at my guidebook and got confused. I started back down the hill. A service truck drove down and I flagged him down. He said it was at the top of the hill, so back up I went. It was the slowest walk for me! I was absolutely exhausted. I put my pack down in the lobby and saw Single Speed, refreshed from his shower and on a mission to find a newspaper and enjoy a beer. I decided to see if they had a room. After a long wait, I finally acquired the keys. I went to tell Single Speed, and he said, "Sit down, girl. I'll buy you a beer!" I didn't know if I should have one, as I was so tired already, but it ended up being the best tasting beer I've ever had (with no aftertaste). We had a nice dinner afterwards as a huge storm rolled in and golf- sized hail pounded the grass in front of the restaurant. Boy were we both glad about our decision! We had a really nice conversation that night, and after a piece of blackberry cobbler and coffee, I went back to my room, showered, and felt more peaceful and content than I had in a long time. I slept hard for five hours and it felt great!