Date: 2007-07-14
From: Crawford Notch Dry River Campground

To: Osgood Tentsite
Miles today: 21.2
Weather: scattered clouds

It was a croweded van shuttling us from Crawford Notch campground at 6:30am to the trailhead. Myself, Caterpillar, Cottontop, Sundance Kid and Pinky (his dad Butch Cassidy was up ahead trying to catch Autumn Joy), Martini and Rossi, and an australian section hiker whose name I've forgotten. The initial climb up from the road, as usual, was steep. C and C set a blistering pace. I tried unsuccessfully to keep up and soon even had to let Sundance Kid and Pinky pass me, which was a little embarrassing since Pinky is a girl. Eventually I passed these guys as they apparently like to hike in spurts with lots of breaks.. well, at least more breaks, or longer breaks than me. Whatever, as Wingfoot says, hike your own hike. I stopped at 7 miles at the Mitzpa hut, checked the weather report, signed the register, talked a bit with the hut "croo", and moved on. This was the beginning of the Presidential range, the "prezzies", a 15 mile stretch along a ridge above treeline, the highlight of which is the highest point in the northeast, Mount Washington. It also is famous for having the coldest weather in America. Originally, I had planned to stop at the Lake of the Clouds Hut at the base Washington and make a push up to the summit early the next morning. But I reached Lake of the Clouds at 12:30 (11 miles in), saw the weather was perfect, and there was only 1.2 miles to Washington. So I just cruised on up there, fighting the crowds along the way. My way to the summit, on foot, was just one of several modes of transportation. There was a road for people to drive up, and even a train leading to the top. At the summit, there was a full service cafeteria, giftshop, post office, observatory, museum, wal-mart..Ok no wal-mart. It was a bit of a shock seeing so much human civilization on top of a remote rock. I mean Washington and the Whites are definitely cool....Those of us out west, with access to the Wasatch mountains, Rockies, and Grand canyon, to name a few, are seriously spoiled. Yes, the presidential mountain range and the ridge walk were amazing and the views were awe-inspiring, and obviously the crown jewel of the AT experience. But did it compare to the hiking landscapes of Utah and Arizona that I've experienced? Sure. It just takes different type of appreciation--example: some people (me)love the sonoran desert. They appreciate the various types of cacti and flowers, the red rock canyons, hoodoo rock formations, and the stark contrasts in the landscape. Others don't--they just see a barren brown and dead looking land, and much prefer the desiduous forests and mountains. And of course, we all have our personal preferences.. I believe the desert is a lot like cigarettes - it might take a few tries before you can stomach it, but inevitably, you'll be addicted.   But I digress. After soaking in the views from Washington (actually, it was fogged in and there were no views)I made the descent towards Mount Madison. This a beautiful walk, with 360 degree views of New Hampshire and into Maine. Someone said on a clear day, one could see the Atlantic Ocean. I didn't. Still, spectacular scenery. Stopped at Madison Hut and gawked at the 50 or 60 weekend backpackers who were paying the $85 to stay the night in what really was nothing more than a suped up shelter. No electricity, no private room, and you have to pack out your own trash. But--there was a helpful 'croo' to cook for and entertain for you. I probably could have stayed and did a work-for-stay where I would have mopped or swept or something for an hour, and in return, they would have fed me and allowed me to sleep under the dining table. There was still daylight, so I kept moving, up Mount Madison and then down, down, down, down, down off the ridgeline, back below treeline to the Osgood tentsite. No camphost and no fee. Hurray!! At the campsite, saw Retro, Lost, Autumn Joy, and a couple southbounders, one of which worked for the Neels Gap outfitter in Georgia.   A long, but satisfying day. Weather could not have been more perfect for the prezzies ridgewalk. Found out later that pretty much everyone I started the day with did a work-for-stay at Lake of the Clouds and then got rained on the next morning. "So it goes." --Kurt Vonnegut