Date: 2015-07-15
From: Franconia, NH

To: AMC Galehead Hut
Miles today: 13.0
Weather: light rain

We hoped it wouldn't be raining this morning when we woke. No luck - it was wet and the clouds were low and thick. A few words about the Gale River Motel in Franconia, NH. The AT crosses the notch (NH 3) partway between N. Woodstock and Franconia (a little closer to N. Woodstock). Up until now we've always stayed at The Woodstock Inn in N. Woodstock. This time we tried out the Gale River. The Gale River is less expensive and has several features we like. Laundry service is available and Gale will shuttle hikers to and from the AT trailhead for no charge. (Woodstock does not provide either of these features.) Kevin at Gale River also provides other shuttle services for a fee. We were pleasantly surprised with Gale River. It appears to have been recently refurbished, and our room was bright and clean with refrigerator and microwave. And the innkeepers were friendly and attentive. There is a restaurant, market, coffeehouse, tavern, and bank about a half-mile from Gale River. We had no trouble walking there. Now for today's hike. It was another tough one. I think the entire segment of the AT in the White Mountains is difficult even when it's not raining. We're not even coming close to the pace we posted in other states. Today we started off with a 3,300 ft climb to Little Haystack Mountain and from that point we were above tree line for the next 2 miles. On a good day we would have had spectacular views, but today we were in the mist and clouds, and the winds were fierce. From that point we followed the Franconia Ridge, crossing both Mt. Lincoln (5,089 ft) and Mt. Lafayette (5,291 ft). And from there the Garfield Ridge to Mt. Garfield (4,500 ft). It's probably good that I couldn't see beyond the ridgeline on either side since I think there are some steep drop off points along the way (or at least I imagined that). The ridges were a string of rocky peaks, each with sharp ups and sharp downs requiring hands and feet, and where poles often got in the way. From Mt. Garfield there was a steep descent to about 3,500 ft, then the trail went into another series of steep, rocky ups and downs. The last piece was a 400 ft steep climb to the Galehead Hut. I mentioned the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) several days ago, and tonight we're staying in one of the "huts" that AMC manages in the White Mountain area. The huts are enclosed buildings that support the AMC membership by providing lodging, meals and other services at popular points along the trails. The AMC website provides lots of details if you're interested. Tonight we're in a warm bunk room, we had a great dinner, and the hut 'croo ' (about 5 young adults) gave several talks this evening to anyone interested. Breakfast is at 7:00 in the morning. This hut has indoor restrooms and plenty of clean water. There are almost 40 hikers here tonight, but not many AT thru-hikers. The huts are not cheap, and reservations during the busy summer months are not easy to get. We were lucky and got reservations over 2 weeks ago, but many traditional AT they-hikers don't know where they'll be until maybe a day or two beforehand. The huts are heavily used by AMC members for vacations, family outings, events, etc. We've visited huts in the past, but this is our first time to stay in one. We have spaces reserved at one more hut and another AMC facility. While most thru-hikers don't reserve hut spaces, the AMC huts do support a work-for-stay for 2 thru-hikers each day at each hut who are willing to help serve dinner and breakfast. And the huts will sell soup and food supply items during the day to hikers, as well as provide free potable water. Spartacus rejoined us today, he drove home to spend the past 2 zero days with his family. He caught up with us partway through the hike today. Ranger left the Woodstock Inn yesterday and hiked partway through today's section and then camped in a shelter last night. He was waiting on us here at the hut when we arrived. Long story for today. I'm hoping some of this info may help future AT thru-hikers plan their trip as well as provide insight into the AT adventure. But I don't get service here at the hut, so I'll have to wait to post this entry.