Date: 2021-07-10
From: Gentian Pond Shelter (mile 286.5)

To: Rt 2 Gorham (mile 298.2)
Miles today: 11.8
Weather: overcast clouds

Woke not long after 5 to a pink sky over a view of the Carters. It was all perfectly framed by the shelter entrance. The day started out better than yesterday's washout, though soon I was being brushed by wet trees again. Stopped at a sunny patch of bedrock to dry out with Beach Day and Prepack.We gradually made our way over somewhat rocky terrain, passing numerous northbounders getting back on trail after the storm. There were also section hikers and dayhikers. One older couple, a man with a huge backpack and a woman with a large daypack, asked if I was dayhiking. I've gotten this a few times. My pack is fairly small, especially compared to standard weekender packs. And today it was even smaller than usual because I had no food except a tuna packet, a couple tortillas, and a few granola bars. I told them I was long-distance hiking and headed to town with no food, but this didn't satisfy the lady. "Do you have a tent?" Yes, I have everything I need. Except food. But town, you see. Shaking her head in disbelief she parted. Beach Day later met them and was asked if he was with that unfriendly guy in the orange shirt, meaning me. Not sure how I rubbed her the wrong way. I always try to be polite and positive with fellow hikers. My guess is her daypack was weighing on her.   Prepack and I raced down the steep hill the last several miles. Despite 2000 feet of descent the trail was mostly dirt and felt wonderful. We were deposited on a dirt access road and roadwalked to route 2. But as we approached the Androscoggin River I spotted a perfect ledge to swim from and hustled down to the shoreline. The water felt fantastic after the hike. It was cool, deep, and clear. The sun was shining. I lay obscured by rocky outcroppings from the bridge as I dried off. Then I dressed and walked in to Rattle River hostel. Even though I wasn't staying - they were booked - I was given a popsicle. I bought a Coke but the vending machine was malfunctioning so someone opened it up and got me what I wanted. They folks know how to make hikers happy. Eric, the owner, also known as Guardian of the Vortex (hostels are often considered time vortices), recognized me and remembered our meeting on Max Patch two years ago when he, Crazy Korean and Sticks had hiked up to bring beers to us. I hitched into town with a generous local named Elizabeth heading for the laundromat. I didn't even need to stick out my thumb. I stuck out like a sore thumb just the way I was.She dropped me at the Barn hostel where the owner Paul welcomed me. It's been less than 10 months since I was here last. Mountain Man is here, having hitched over from Bethel to save on lodging costs while his chafing heals. Everyone else had left to hike. A handful would be returning after slackpacking. Alias showed up, and after showering and doing laundry we grabbed lunch at Mr. Pizza with Beach Day and Prepack, who'd come in from Rattle River. Bait made it to town yesterday through the rain, and his girlfriend has come up to visit for a couple days. Alias really wanted a haircut, being a former Marine, but the local salon was closed so Paul shuttled us to Walmart to try their barber. They too were closing. Meanwhile, I had found a set of hair clippers in the hostel and cleaned up my own Einstein hair in about 15 minutes. I didn't think I'd need to eat again after my calzone at Mr. Pizza (which for some reason uses cheddar instead of mozzarella on their pizzas and calzones), but by 8 I was at the all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet with Alias, Bait, and his girlfriend Mae, who just graduated with a microbiology degree. After that and a cold walk a mile back to the hostel, it was time for sleep in a real bed in the Barn's hayloft.