Date: 2015-12-21
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Miles today: 0.0
Weather: overcast clouds

Whenever I met veteran AT hikers, I always asked them what their favorite sections were ¢ partly to get a bit of insight on what lay ahead on my AT journey, but also because I was interested in the varied responses people gave me. Therefore, I thought I might list a few of my favorite places on the AT. Certain places were memorable because they were visually stunning or objectively beautiful while others struck me on a more emotional level. I know not everyone is in a position to take 5-6 months off to hike the AT in its entirety, so I will try to include a few choices that would be appropriate for day or week-long trips. At the end of this entry I will also give a ¢Best of¢ per state (because this is going to be a huge entry). Best seasonBefore I get into the specifics, I want to mention that the first month or so of our AT hike (so from Springer Mountain, GA to Damascus, VA) was downright amazing. The novelty of the experience and the initial trepidation spurred us on. I think all beginning thru-hikers are acutely aware that statistically, most of them will not accomplish this endeavor; a low-grade level of constant anxiety and excitement settles in as we take on a challenge that many aspire yet fail to achieve. I also thoroughly enjoyed hiking in the colder weather. We began the first week of March and while I will not miss the sub-freezing nights where I needed to wear all my layers to remain minimally comfortable, I loved hiking during this period: the cold crisp air against your face, the crackling of frozen leaves as you step down your foot and the snowy, icy sceneries were invigorating. The trees were leafless and the views were far-reaching and open. I particularly loved wandering in the still, dormant forest where everything seemed dead, especially if the land was encased in a layer of snow and ice; it was eerily, uniquely beautiful. If you can handle the cold, I encourage you to experience hiking in such conditions. As an added bonus, the Trail is less crowded during this time. We had mainly met fellow thru-hikers, which definitely helped forge a certain sense of camaraderie between us as we were the only ones braving the elements. As time went on, spring slowly began awakening the forest by warming everything up. Flowers and young saplings began poking through the damp earth and new birds and animals appeared too. The Smokies (NC/TN)The Smokies were a definite highlight of the trip. You reach high elevations (Clingmans Dome, at 6,643¢, is the highest peak on the whole AT) and the terrain is usually well maintained and graded. We hit the Smokies on day 14 and, by the time we were done, I could definitely say that our hiker legs were developing and that our cardiovascular system was more efficient. The Smokies would therefore be a good training hike. The whole Great Smoky National Park offers many, many other trails (as well as horse riding trails), so there are several options for shorter trips. Again, we went through the Smokies mid-March so there weren¢t any leaves, plants, flowers or wildlife out and about (the Smokies are known for being home to many bears, though we didn¢t see any as they were probably still sleeping). I will say that the Smokies experience a particularly high level of precipitation, as evidenced by the large vinyl sheets covering the shelters¢ entrance to prevent the at-times glacial winds and rain from blowing in. It may happen that you go through the entire Smokies in the rain; however, if it is nice out, it will be amazing. Final note: Gatlinburg is a strange place and it is not hiker friendly. Max Patch (NC) Max Patch was maybe a day or so out of the Smokies and a couple of days before Hot Springs, NC. The whole section was very pleasant in general. The site which is known as Max Patch (elev. 4,269¢, formerly Mack¢s Patch) used to be an old homestead and logging camp that was purposefully kept bald. The area offers a panoramic view, including the Smokies. When the night is clear, many hikers opt to camp on top, which would be an amazing experience; as you spend most of your time under the cover of the trees, you actually don¢t have that many occasions to stargaze on the AT. This would be a perfect opportunity. There are a few other similar bald mountains which were really neat. Big Bald in particular (around 16 miles before Erwin, TN) was quite a sight as it had snowed a fair amount when we went there and the whole region appeared as an icy, tundra-like landscape. Roan Mountain (TN)The couple of days before Roan Mountain and after would make a great week-end trip (so spanning from Erwin to the NC/TN border, maybe?). The temperatures were cool, but the sky was completely clear for those days. We hit Unaka Mountain (elev. 5,180¢) first which is home to a unique spruce forest, then Roan Mountain (elev. 6,212¢). The Trail follows a long stretch along highland plateaus and exposed, grassy balds (Big Hump is the largest). It is quite a unique experience to see miles and miles stretch out all around you. The grass was dead and its pale, yellowish-gray color stood out against the deep blue sky; visually very stunning. Grayson Highlands National ParkThe Grayson Highlands were a couple of days out of Damascus, VA. The terrain was a bit more challenging that anything previously encountered as the Trail was quite rocky. I remember many people complaining of sore feet and aching knees as they were not used to the rocky, uneven Trail. The views were great as there was a mix of exposed, grassy highlands, rocky facades and small segments of forests. And, of course, the wild ponies just tie everything together. They are very aloof and uninterested in people (unless one presents them with a tasty snack), but it is amazing to watch them, surrounded by the unique scenery. A great day trip. As a final note on Virginia, I would recommend the Shenandoah National Park for people who want to do some casual hiking or camping all while being close to civilization, roads and services. The terrain is smooth and easy, there are a few nice views and ample opportunities to see wildlife (deer, raccoons, rabbits, bears). I personally did not like this section (an opinion shared by many hikers, I might add), but for beginner backpackers or families, I would definitely recommend the Shenandoahs. Vermont I know I skipped a huge portion from northern Virginia to Vermont; of course, there are a few nice sections, but nothing really stood out. From the Half-way point onwards, most thru-hikers went through a period of mental fatigue and declining enthusiasm. MD, PA, NY, NJ¢¦there aren¢t any great mountains or views (even less if you go there in the summer). Hiking became quite routine and frequently dull during those states. However, Vermont brought a drastic change in terrain and elevation gain and, consequently, a change in the forests¢ plant life. I was as if we crossed into a new biome type. I, personally, finally felt that we were in the North as the scenery resembles what we see in Qu©bec. Vermont, especially southern Vermont is quite muddy (and, unfortunately, it rained so much when we were there). The Trail is flooded and eroded and many of the planks and boardwalks are rotting and crumbling away. Still, it was great to finally have mountains to climb (hitting the 4,000¢+ mark). I particularly remember Stratton, Bromley and Killington Mountains. I will say that Vermont was generally quite crowded. I think hiking in Vermont during the fall season would be fantastic ¢ cool temperatures, colorful forest, less crowded (perhaps less muddy?). Maybe it would be a good time to do the Long Trail? The White MountainsIt is no secret that the Whites are a great favorite among hikers. They are so challenging, but absolutely worth it. I would definitely recommend ascending mount Moosilauke as to me it sort of symbolized the entry to the Whites, like an impassive guardian to defeat. It¢s the first time in a long time you are finally above tree line which is amazing as the whole mountain range extends beyond your line of sight. Otherwise, Franconia Ridge and the rest of the Presidential Range are recommended. They are of course very crowded, but the experience of walking along the mountains narrow, exposed ridge where the faraway mountains appear as moss growing on a large rock outweighs these inconveniences. The rocky terrain seems in a way otherworldly, as if you were hiking on another planet, especially if you manage to hike in solitude. The overall experience is more intense and your senses are heightened as you really realize how powerful nature can be, especially if you happen to be stuck, for instance, in a savagely violent hail storm, helplessly trying to outrun the dark clouds while scrambling up Mt Washington (not recommended). As a final note on the Whites, I will also add that the huts are great as they have food! MaineOh Maine. I had a true love-hate relationship with Maine. Maine was so rugged, remote and challenging. It was my end goal, my obsession for the past few months, a fabled land that I thought I would never see; but Maine also symbolized the end of my journey, so it was a bittersweet period. I was happy to be done ¢ relieved even ¢ but I was unsure of how I would integrate back to my normal life (and, if you read my previous entries, you know I still struggle with this). I was so tired of hiking when we finally hit Maine (I think many hikers were) so every obstacle and setback seemed amplified. Yet, the state is undeniably beautiful ¢ the conifers, the numerous lakes, the very primal forests, the numerous deep, fast-flowing, slippery rivers to cross, the minimal Trail maintenance causing untamed roots to entangle themselves across the Trail and the difficult mountains. Southern Maine is harsh. Goose Eye Mountain, Mahoosuc Notch and Arm, Old Speck Mountain, the Baldpates, Saddleback Mountain¢¦they were amazing, but physically demanding and, consequently, emotionally draining. It¢s a dangerous kind of beauty and I wondered many times why was I traveling through these harsh, unforgiving mountains. I would recommend these areas if you are an experienced hiker. Otherwise, I really enjoyed the 100 Mile Wilderness. Again, this is a very remote and wild area with no easy access to roads or civilization. I would recommend doing this as a 7-10 day trip (with the proper preparations and plenty of food reserves). Such a trip would be a great practice for a future thru-hike all while being a very enjoyable hiking experience. Finally, Katahdin. We night-hiked up Katahdin which intensified my experience. I was nauseous and dizzy from the anticipation and the physical exhaustion, but I was beyond excited. I vividly remember so many small, insignificant details from my climb, like the way the shadows from my head lamp danced or the feel of the rocks I was scrambling over and the sound of my breathing in the otherwise silent night. As we drew near the summit, the sun was slowly rising and the clouds were dissipating in the orange-pinkish sky. I was increasingly tired, depleted of any stamina and worried as the ascent requires hand-over-hand climbing and strength that I did not have anymore. The moment I saw the summit plaque ¢¦ I was so happy. A mixture of relief, bliss and peace; maybe I have never been happier. I know that a day hike up Katahdin will not result in such an epic, hyperbolic and emotionally charged finish. Still, I am repeating my story because Katahdin is injected with so much history and symbolism for hikers ¢ it encompasses the hiker¢s aspirations and hopes and is tangible evidence of their success. Katahdin is an invaluable, enduring part of AT lore and can never be taken off the official Trail route, notwithstanding the objections put forth by Baxter State Park officials. I needed to have Katahdin as my end goal. STATE BY STATE FAVORITES SUMMARYGEORGIA: Springer Mountain (of course!) as well as Blood Mountain. Hiawassee is the first Trail town on a northbound trip, so that is exciting. NORTH CAROLINA/TENNESSEE: Smokies, Max Patch, Roan Mountain. Hot Springs was one of the best Trail towns. I didn¢t really like Erwin as it is a huge spread-out town and we had to walk a lot (!)VIRGINIA: Grayson Highlands #1. Damascus was disappointing. Most of Southern Virginia was alright and I much enjoyed crossing farmlands and pastures (up to Pearisburg, VA; a great town by the way); the three days after Daleville (also a good place because it¢s on the Trail) were PARTICULARLY easy, so that was fun. Shenandoahs are meh. I HATED Northern Virginia because of the Roller Coaster. WEST VIRGINIA: Harpers Ferry! MARYLAND: Too short and uniform; could be skipped. I was a bit sad to leave South. PENSYLVANNIA: Not much is redeemable¢¦There is the half-way point (ice cream, 10/10). The southern portion is fine, that is around Boiling Springs, which is a nice town (before and after) is quite interesting because of the flat farmlands. Beyond Duncannon (an OK town), nothing much. The Pinnacle is a decent view. The Knife Edge and Bake Oven Knob are annoying. Wind Gap was an OK town as well (close to the Trail). NEW JERSEY: Vernie Swamp and Pochuck Boardwalk. No hitchhiking! The whole state could be a nice trip for a few days because there is quite a bit of variety. NEW YORK: Southern New York is HARD (though ideal for day trips). However, NY has delis. The Zoo was my favorite part as well as the section around the Fingerboard shelter (so pretty). No hitchhiking here either! CONNECTICUT: Meh. Could be skipped. MASSACHUSSETS: Home of Shay¢s Rebellion Monument. The section down from Bear Mt to Sages Ravine to Mt Everett and up Mt Race was nice (especially Mt Race ¢ you hike along an exposed ledge, it¢s really cool). Mt Greylock was alright too. MA starts being more wilderness-y than the previous states. VERMONT: Everything was great! NEW-HAMPSHIRE: Skip the southern section of NH and just hit the Whites. I didn¢t really like the final portion of the Whites, the 20-ish mile segment across the Wildcats. The White Mountains Hostel in Gorham is the place to be. MAINE: The 100-Mile Wilderness and Katahdin. Monson is a nice town and I also enjoyed our stay in Caratunk. I have at least one more entry before I wrap this journal up. Justine.