Date: 2013-05-19
From: Hightop Hut

To: Big Meadows Lodge
Miles today: 20.4
Weather: light rain

May 19th: Hiked 20.4 miles from Hilltop Hut to Big Meadows Lodge. Total miles hiked: 919.8, 1266.1 to go. I thought today's post would start simply "today sucked" but as is so often the case, amazing things started to happen. Rained off and on throughout the night and all my gear was damp and my tent downright wet. Hit the trail by 6:30 and within 10 minutes my boots and feet were totally soaked. Within a few miles, my feet were starting to hurt and my disposition was anything but rosy. Adding to my woes was the fact that the Big Meadows Lodge, a really nice country resort located near the trail was booked solid. I had been told that it is a guilty pleasure for hikers nearing the halfway point and a really nice place to stay. Run by the Park Service, there is also a camp ground nearby. Figured if I can't stay with the fat cats at least I can watch them from my wet tent. So off I went into the rain, fog and mist. Wet and miserable, I came across a deer in the middle of the trail which just stood and stared as I approached. What made this unusual was this deer was full grown. As I approached, she backed away slowly never taking her eyes away from where she had been standing. Camera at the ready to take a picture of the doe, I stepped over a log laying across the trail and when I looked down to my amazement, there was a fawn stretched out beside the log perfectly still. I snapped a quick picture before continuing down the trail. The weather was lousy all day and every view was obscured by low clouds and heavy mist. Around lunch time I came upon a couple of day hikers and struck up a very brief conversation. The husband asked me what keeps me motivated on rainy days to keep on going. I told him that about 5 miles up the trail on the Skyway was a Visitor Center and restaurant and that a cheese burger, chocolate shake and cold beer was all the motivation I needed. We said our goodbyes and off I went. When I reached the restaurant a couple of hours later, I got out of my wet shoes and my disposition improved dramatically when I sat down for my second hot meal in as many days. The lunch I ordered was wonderful. At the end of the meal when I thought the waitress was coming by with the check, she smiled and said my bill had been paid by a couple who said they had met me on the trail. I was blown away and just a little teary eyed that complete strangers would do something so nice. The waitress told me they came in, paid my bill and left. Amazing. When I left the restaurant, I was looking at a mile walk up the road to the Big Meadow Camp Ground in my wet shoes and sore feet. The first car that drove by pulled over and offered me a ride. Dropped off at the Ranger Station to register for a tent site I told the ranger that I had really hoped to stay at the lodge but they were booked solid. He told me to hold and got on the phone. He told the person on the other end that he had a tired and wet looking hiker who could really use a comfortable room out of the elements. After a few more pleasantries, he hung up the phone, smiled and said, "they are waiting for you". And here I am in room 23 getting ready to go downstairs to the tap room for a cold beer. Another amazing day on the AT. And yes, the lodge is beautiful.