Date: 2008-08-29
From: Mahoosuc Notch

To: Rt 26, Grafton Notch
Miles today: 8.2
Weather: light rain

Friday, August 29. The last in a series of three day hikes, moving us from US 2 in Gorham area to Grafton Notch, Rt 26. Today topped the last two days for elevation gained and lost, and length of time on the trail. We started at the Success Pond trailhead of the Notch trail, and walked in on the 1.9 mi. lightly graded path. The stream that wound its way along the trail has some spectacular spots for soaking or lounging. Due to the time constraints and early hour of the morning, we did neither, but definitely put it on the someday, maybe list.The Notch itself began with a dip down through some scrubby pines, onto huge blocky boulders with blazes painted on them. I decided to lighten the experience by making a video series of the ups and downs for V8, who had to get back home to start work. This is one of the only remaining parts of the Maine AT that she has left to do. Certain and I clowned around the whole length of the notch, setting up vivid photo ops, and shooting video clips for maximum realism. Right away we came to the crevass in which the moose had fallen a year ago last winter. Its bones were bleached and in a jumble, with just a few areas where sinew had taughtened and darkened. Its skull had been lifted up and placed on a ledge just above its body, and someone had strung a short loop of prayer flags above the area. It was immediately humbling and awe inspiring. We stopped to just be there quietly, absorbing the direct experience of death, in what is also a profoundly beautiful environment. The scale of the rocks required some planning and experimenting to either drop down from or climb up on them. I loved that it was doable and not terrifying, and I was thankful for flexible knees and strong legs today. Very!I reflected on the original motivation for doing the AT this year, which was that my father had died at my age, with a massive heart attack. His father had died the same way at the same age, 57. Here I was after almost 1000 miles of hiking this year, 30# lighter, much stronger and lots more flexible. I could enjoy the contortions required to get through Mahoosuc Notch. This is not to say I would have been as pleased if I¢d had to carry a full pack, I do understand that. But as a slack packing day, it was a success.Certain and I stopped for some food at a tentsite we found after emerging from the notch. We knew we had another 7 or so miles to do, but thought it would be OK, as people had said both the notch and Mahoosuc Arm were not as bad as some would have you think.Having stoked the fires with sandwiches and fruit drinks, off we went. We passed a fellow coming down from above, who said that he thought that was the longest, steepest descent he had ever done. Sure, I thought. Just another fear mongerer! We continued our climb, up through tall stands of ash and hemlock and beech, which were soon standing on precipitous slopes to either side of us. The trail grew rocky, then became long slabs of slanted rock with roots and moss converging from the edges. Former experience had left me with a sense of how long these conditions usually last. This stretch was different. It went on and on and on. And on. Sun and a light breeze continued almost all day, and provided a peaceful environment. This stretch must be frightening and dangerous in rain and high winds, let alone thunderstorms. We began at about 1400¢ elevation, and went up another 1000¢ to the start of the notch. The notch lost about 300¢ elevation in that mile, but then we struggled up 1500¢ in the next mile or so. Then down a bit to Speck Pond campsite, and up to 3900¢ at Old Speck. The end of the day, exiting down to Grafton Notch was a 4 mile, 2500¢ descent. Even with a slack pack, the bottoms of my feet were hurting, and my knees were deteriorating. Certain and I were thrilled to have completed this section when we arrived at the car. It was after 7pm, and mosquitoes were swarming, as were some black clouds. It was getting dark, all of which contributed to a hasty retreat back to our motel. Instead of going out for supper, we ordered some things from Pat¢s Pizza, a Maine company who really provided a great meal. I had a Greek pizza, which I had remembered as a delicious concoction of feta and provelone, sliced tomatos, real Greek olives and sliced ham and onions. I was not disappointed! It was heaven. We had little energy for socializing, saved the photos and video clips for the morning. A huge THANK-YOU to both Certain and Incessant. You were such great hosts, so generous with your time and attention, so helpful to me as a hiker, and above all, so smart and funny. I am still laughing at some of your high speed dialogue! My hope is that I can take parts of the next two weeks to hike with Tom, who has freed up three nights, and to perhaps rejoin certain up the trail for a few more days. I am hoping to hear back from Leaping Turtle to see where they are now and perhaps do a little hiking with them, as well. More to come.