Date: 2007-09-25
From: Katahdin Stream Campground ÃÂÃÂ¢ÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂ 2168.8

To: Baxter Peak, Mt Katahdin ÃÂÃÂ¢ÃÂÃÂÃÂÃÂ 2175 - descend via the 
Miles today: 12.5
Weather: few clouds

Day 174 ¢ 9/25/07Start: Katahdin Stream Campground ¢ 2168.8End: Baxter Peak, Mt Katahdin ¢ 2175 - descend via the Knife EdgeDay Miles: 12.5We were told yesterday that they limit entrance to the park to the number of parking spots in each area. It is possible for Katahdin Stream (the trailhead of the AT approach to Mt. Katahdin) to fill up and be closed. We were also told that long lines form to get into the park later in the day. The gates open at 6:00 am and we plan to arrive no later than 6:30 am. When we leave the hotel it is cold and the summit of Katahdin is in clouded cover. The weather looks iffy at best. We stop for coffee and make the long drive into the park watching for moose in the road. Numbtoe¢s sister and brother-in-law (Tim) are driving us this morning and Tim plans on making the climb with us.When we get to the gate there is no line. As a matter of fact we are one of the first ones to enter. When we get to the trailhead other hikers are just getting ready. We need to wait for the weather report that is supposed to be posted by 7:00 am. This will tell us if the mountain is open for hiking. We kill some time and at 7:30 finally give up waiting for the yet-to-be-posted weather/climbing report. We set off slowly since it is only 5.2 miles to the summit. Within 20 minutes it begins to rain. It is more of a drizzle that lasts for about 30 minutes. We keep hiking. There is one spring on the mountain but we have been warned it may be dry. No one seems to know for sure which seems odd since the mountain is climbed by dozens of people each day. We are carrying extra water but water is running down the trail in several places. Soon the hiking turns to climbing. You need to pull yourself up over ledges in many areas. The ledges get stepper and soon there are iron bars for foot and hand holds. It is slow going and it just seems to get steeper. As we break out of the trees the wind begins to pound us. You have to watch your balance and footing because it is a long way down.Finally we break over the ledges to the Tablelands, a 2 mile stretch of open rock that resembles the moon. The vegetation is low alpine plants resembling Mount Washington. I find Thoreau Spring and it is running fine but I already have enough water. I am taking my time because I totally lack energy. The climb seemed to take a lot out of me. Even though I had climbed Katahdin before I did not remember the Tablelands as being so vast and Baxter Peak seems so far away now. I trudge on trying to inspire myself. The winds are a problem as well. I had my heart set on doing the Knife Edge trail on the way down. The last time I was on the mountain it started to rain and it was too dangerous. Today the winds may be too high. The trail is only a foot wide in some spots with 1,000 foot drops on either side.As I make my final climb up Baxter Peak I run into Backfire and Spock descending. They said it was too windy to stay up on the peak and they did basically a touch and go. This was more bad news since I had really wanted to savor my summit. Poppie has given the three of us bottles of Champagne to toast when we reached the summit and some of my best friends from the trail would be there with me today. I only wish Buffalo Bobby was here today as well.I finally drag myself to the summit and realize the wind is not as bad as people had indicated and my mood quickly improves. A group of us huddle in the protection of the rocks and take turns taking summit pictures at the sign marking the end of our journey. More hikers arrive at the summit including Popeye, Lightweight, JB, Speaks Little, Gypsy Spirit, Butch Cassidy, and Sundance Kid. There are a few other thru-hikers I do not know because they have been ahead of me. In addition, a number of day hikers are on the summit. The weather just keeps getting better. The sun is out in full force and the wind is dying. Hikers are now starting to arrive via the Knife Edge and my spirits are buoyed. I start to recruit daredevils to descend the Knife Edge with me and Popeye, Shadow, and Numbtoe sign on. The others decide to retrace their steps down the mountain back to Katahdin Stream. One hiker said he attempted to come up the Knife Edge yesterday but was forced back but today he made it as the winds lessened.Finally the time has come to leave the summit. We have to watch our time since this mountain is no place to be after dark. The four of us start down the trail and meet two college girls that peg us for thru-hikers. They immediately pull out cold bottles of beer saying they had carried them to the summit as trail magic for thru-hikers. Not to deny their offer of kindness the 4 of us stop and have a beer and tell them our stories. As we go to pack the empties they insist on taking those as well. If the two of you read this entry thanks again.The short trek from Baxter Peak to South Peak is a boulder scramble in high winds. Your hiking poles are pretty much useless for balance and you have to be careful you do not break a leg by slipping into a crevice. This is the appetizer for what lies ahead. After we crest South Peak we cross a very narrow saddle. We descend steeply, cross the saddle, and climb almost hand-over-hand. Popeye is soon out of sight. He is one of the strongest hikers I know and he is now highly motivated. Shadow, also a very strong hiker, moves out ahead as well but his concern for Numbtoe on the rocks keeps him in sight.We gather up every so often for short breaks and then move on. This is very slow going and I have scraped the skin off both knees on the rocks. We have to intersect with the Helon Taylor on Chimney Peak but the winds are really starting to increase with the cooling air. We have to descend very steeply into a deep col before we climb up to Chimney Peak. You literally have to hang by your arms and lower yourself down. As we look across another hiker is heading towards us and trying to descend Chimney Peak. Several times he is pinned down by the wind and cannot move. Just before the bottom of the col I reach a point where it is almost impossible for my short little legs to reach a foot hold as I dangle by my hands. After several attempts I finally get a footing and make it down.Shadow and I gather at the bottom and try to coach Numbtoe past the same spot. Shadow goes back up to help her find a foothold and soon we are all down with Chimney Peak ahead of us and darkness a concern. The other hiker finally makes it down to our location. We warn him about trying to go to the summit this late in the day but he is determined and heads off. We have found a well used but unmarked foul weather trail that skirts the summit of Chimney Peak. We can see it connects to the Helon Taylor trail because the cairns are visible in the distance. This is no longer the AT that is behind me. I have faithfully followed every white blaze in sequence since Georgia but once completed I am now on blue blazes anyway. It is a unanimous vote to take the shortcut. It is a quick traverse over to the Helon Taylor trail and once on it we make very good time. There are still a few steep spots and boulder fields to deal with but we are not crawling (literally) anymore. With the danger over Shadow soon disappears down the trail. I am out ahead but continue to keep contact with Numbtoe. The trail seems to go on for much longer than we were told. I consult the map several times to make sure we have not taken a wrong turn. We hit flat spots a few times and are convicted we are off the mountain only to descend again. Finally we find signs and hear the ¢roaring¢ brook of Roaring Brook Campsite which is our rendezvous point. Poppie is there waiting for us along with several other hikers who have made their way around from Katahdin Stream campground. Popeye¢s pack was left behind at Katahdin Stream and he is walking/hitch-hiking the 8 miles over to retrieve his pack. When we leave we have Poppie¢s truck full of thru-hikers needing a ride into town. Darkness is upon us and we wait at the main gate for Numbtoe¢s family and Popeye who are both at Katahdin stream. Soon they both arrive and we are off to town.After dropping the other hikers off in various places we head to the hotel and enjoy a feast that Poppie has put together for us consisting of lobsters, shrimp, corn, cold beer, and all kinds of snacks. We set up the turkey fryer he bought behind the hotel and soon begin our own New England lobster boil. What an end to the journey. Thanks again Poppie Terry, you are the BEST!!!!