Date: 2006-03-24
From: Roaring Fork Shelter

To: Hot Springs (Elmer's)
Miles today: 18.0
Weather: light rain

6:16am Horrible night's sleep. For some reason (maybe because for the first time in a long time I didn't take any sleep aid before going to bed) I just couldn't seem to get a few good hours. I suppose I must have slept, but it was one of those nights that happens pretty often on the trail where you wake up wondering if it's morning yet, only to look at your watch and discover that it's only 11pm or 1 am or something. Only tonight, I did that at 12:30, 12:45, 1, 1:40, 1:45, 2, 2:30 etc. up until now, when I decided to bite the bullet and admit I'm awake for good. Being stinky out here isn't really a big deal socially, but it can still suck. I think I'm probably the dirtiest I've been on this trip so far. I showered at Gatlinburg, but we haven't done laundry since Fontana, which means that now all my clothes, especially my socks and underwear, which matter most, are disgusting. I smell, but what bothers me now is the feeling. We've had wet weather since Fontana, plenty of snow, sleet, rain, and opportunites to sweat as well. I'm wearing damp clothes now, and to change would only mean to swap out warm, damp clothes for cold, damp ones, which is hard to justify. I'm not really complaining I guess, but Hot Springs can't come too soon and to be dry and clean will be reward enough in itself for the Smokies and few days after. Yesterday morning we left Davenport Gap Shelter and hiked the .9 miles to Davenport Gap, where there is a road. No hitch, but we walked 1.3 miles down that road to Mountain Mama's for breakfast and to resupply just enough to get us to Hot Springs. Mountain Mama's was a nice place. It was warm and had plumbing, so we had that going for us. Which was nice. I was a wee bit disappointed by the food, as for some reason I was expecting home cookin' and we got frozen pancakes reheated and slathered with Parkay. Also, my dreams of a couple of over-easy eggs were dashed because they only served scrambled. And the "taters" were those patties like at fast food restaurants that are like a giant tatter tot. And they only had coffee mate, not milk (although that seems to be the case everywhere here, wtf?) Other than that, it was perfect, haha. No, I sound like I didn't enjoy it. I did. I beasted that breakfast and it's probably the best breakfast I've had since being out here. Hot coffee, pancakes, syrup, potatos with ketsup, and eggs. I've been craving breakfast food like crazy because although we've eaten out in towns, it's always been dinner, and I could use some good breakfast food. My dad's stuffed french toast. Thick french toast slices with sliced banana and cream cheese sandwiched in between. Milk, 100% maple syrup. I'm killing myself here. I'm hungry. But yeah, really what I want out of Hot Springs is some degree of comfort and for the damp, filthy feeling to go away. I like being out here with mostly guys. Not because... well, I'm not sure why. I've always enjoyed the company of men though, and out here I am the same but different in a way that is really splendid. Last night was cold. Being damp didn't help. We got a couple of inches. My sleeping bag liners smell pretty foul. It's really lovely. But I'm warmer with them than without. Yesterday, after going to Mountain Mama's and eating that breakfast and buying granola bars and instant mashed potatos, we began the 17 remaining miles to this shelter (fortunately there was a $1 shuttle back to the trailhead from Mountain Mama's so we didn't have to do the 1.3 uphill back to Davenport Gap. Then after a few miles of downhill out of Davenport Gap, it was up, up, up. The sonofabitch went on for about 5 miles at least, probably closer to 5.5. Very few breaks in there, just one long climb. I just wanted to get it over with, which I often do, but that's a long hill to tackle in one frantic, break-less climb. In the end I caught up to some fast guys hiking in front of me. Thumper, Sunshine, Lockjaw and Slip n' Slide were behind. I stayed with Treefingers and Rambleon until the shelter where we had decided to stop and eat and reconnoiter. I was at the shelter for maybe an hour eating and waiting for the others to arrive and eat. Then it was off again, and faced with a rollercoaster of an afternoon, I set the same pace as before.