Date: 2015-04-02
From: Doll Flats

To: Moreland Gap Shelter
Miles today: 21.4
Weather: overcast clouds

Last night was pretty miserable in terms of sleep. I barely got any all night, and spent the first half of the day fighting exhaustion. I left camp at 7.30am, because I had already been awake for an hour and I was sick of listening to the wind howl.Everyone who cowboy camped in the field seemed to sleep much better than I did. Heating my oats was frustrating because the gas stove kept getting blown out by the wind, since it was coming from every direction. Then when I was eating it, each time I lifted the spoon it would try to fly away and a good portion of it flew on my coat. My coat now pretty much resembles something that a homeless person would wear. No amount of scrubbing at hostels has managed to dislodge the mud and stains. Once I was out of the wind, the weather was better. I got burnt again, but it wasn't oppressively hot. The route today was quite a bit of down, with some flats and some gentle uphills. It was nice, but in the morning I wasn't having a nice time. My blisters were painful on my heels, and I have some new ones again. I stubbed my toe repeatedly. My knees were also super tight today and it made going up and down steps really painful. I really hope that resolves itself in my sleep tonight. There were quite a few signs around one of the roads that warned hikers about the vandalism in the area. In the same place, there was also an incredible amount of litter. If I based my ideas of Americans on the litter they leave in their roadside forests, it would be all beer cans, fast food, cigarettes, and massive disposable drink cups- which I suppose is about half accurate. I did however see some wildlife today! I saw what I think was a grouse, as well as a whole bunch of spiders and flies, but those are a daily occurrence now. I stopped for lunch with Laughtrack, Brightside and Dopey at a small waterfall. I took 2 paracetamol (with caffeine) and 1 ibuprofen with my Nutella/granola/tortilla. I also had to put duct tape on my left heel to try to deal with the blisters there, which did help a bit. It was a very nice little sunny and relaxing lunch break, which would have been perfect if I didn't hurt so much.After that, there were 10 more miles to get to the shelter. I listened to some lectures on Hannibal and plodded along. The trail seemed mostly the same. Hot, dry dead leaves, hidden rocks and roots, bare trees. Broken up by some short green rhododendron tunnels, streams and little bridges. Sometimes it went up, sometimes down, but not too steep for too long. My feet definitely felt better, but only as long as the painkillers lasted.I stopped at the streams a couple times and used my bandana to try to rinse off some of the dirt on my face, arms and legs. Adding sunscreen just seemed to be spreading streaks of filth. Tomorrow we will finally get to the hostel and I can shower. It will have been more than a week since the last time. As usual, I was one of the last at the shelter. The Rhode Island Express were all actually behind me today, because they went fishing earlier. Chef actually caught and cooked a rainbow trout! Unlike last night, most people are staying inside the shelter since the wind here is pretty fierce still, and there is also some rain. We are joined tonight by Furball and another man whose name I never learned. After dinner, I started working on my blisters again. Of course I still have the ones on my heels, which seem to just be getting thicker despite repeated drainings. I also have some new special ones on the inside of my toes, a couple of which have burst already. I think these are from having toenails that are a little too long. One thing is for sure, I absolutely have to get some new shoes in Damascus. Now I'm going to try and catch up on my sleep. Tomorrow we're staying at a place called Kincorra which is only $5. However, we have heard from hikers ahead that a couple of people have been sick with the norovirus whilst staying there. This is one of the biggest diseases that people can catch on the trail, and usually takes people off the trail for a few days whilst they are very sick. Sometimes hikers don't quite make it into town and do severe biological damage to the shelters and campsites, which is one of the many ways that other hikers can catch it. It's pretty much the last thing I need right now. Also today we passed the 400 mile point, and I have officially been in America for one month. Now I just need to do this all 5 more times.