Date: 2013-06-20
From: Stealth camp near spring near Big Meadows

To: Stealth camp near Pinnacles Picnic Area
Miles today: 14.2

I had a restless night's sleep. I'm not sure why. Maybe I was just paranoid of bears. I woke up periodically thinking that I had heard something, but there was nothing there that I could see. About the time that I was planning to awake, I thought I saw a largish bear climbing the tree right in front of my tent. I got excited! But then I realized that I was dreaming. With awake eyes, I looked towards the tree, and there hung only our food bags. Undisturbed. I was a little disappointed. Some small part of me hoped to see our food bags shredded, food strewn all over the forest floor. I got up to do my "business". It was a large open forest, with few places to hide behind. There was pretty much a direct line-of-sight no matter which direction you went. There was a thin layer of fog floating in the morning air. I heard some rustling and sticks breaking. About 50ft away two deer came barreling down the hill. It seemed that something was chasing them, but whatever it was never presented itself. Only silence followed them.We packed up quickly and skipped breakfast except for grabbing a granola bar. We had our sights set on Big Meadows wayside, a restaurant only a few miles away. Two more deer peeked at us through the trees and fog as we rejoined the trail. As we moved along the flat, straight path another doe walked out ahead of us. I could just make out a little head in the high grass. I couldn't tell if it was a tall rabbit or a short fawn. When we got a few feet closer, I could see it was a fawn. The fawn tettered out onto the trail on its skinny legs. It looked towards us curiously and then headed for its own breakfast. In the eyes of the deer, we posed such little threat. The morning fog grew thicker as we made it up to Skyline Drive. If it weren't for the signs directing tourists to the wayside, I think we would have missed it in the fog. There was a gift shop to the left, a campstore straight ahead, and a restaurant to the right. I claimed us a 4-top in front of the big windows with power outlets on either side. This wayside served multiple uses! Both of our phones were in desperate need of a charge. I was so excited about the freshly cooked breakfast that awaited me, my eyes almost teared up. I ordered a tall stack of pancakes, 2 eggs, a side of sausage, coffee, orange juice and water. About half-way through the feast, my phone rang. It was Tom. I was torn. To eat? Or to speak with my lovely husband? Tom won out. Barely. Attentive that he is, he could hear the desperation in my voice to get back to my pancakes. So after 5 minutes, we said good-bye.The fog had burned off a little by the time we headed back out. The AT skirts directly along the edge of Big Meadows campground. As you are walking along, you can talk with the people in the campsites. I find it interesting that they don't want you stealth camping within eyesite of the AT, and yet the park has no problem charging $15 for a campsite or $140 for a room that looks directly down onto it. Either way, I stopped and talked with a few campers that I had seen at the wayside. As I was heading down from their site I saw another doe with two babies. Twins! They romped and played. They scampered and dashed. They leaped and bucked. One was so curious that it came within 5 ft of me. It seemed to enjoy having its photo taken.Watching them, I realized that my own sense of playful had returned. I don't dare jump or romp like the baby deer, but the lightness in my heart is back. My spirits and confidence are greatly restored. The blessing of my knee issue (now that I know it is not necessarily a hike ender) is that it has forced me to take the Shenandoahs at a slower pace. As a result, I'm "seeing" things again. I'm "looking" deeper into the forest again. I'm paying attention to the smells and textures. And I'm genuinely enjoying the experience again.The wind picked up a little as we approached the Skyland Stables. The wind was at my back, and I kept getting a whiff of something terrible. Suddenly I realized, I was smelling my socks that I had strapped the outside of my pack to dry. Pee-ew. Thank goodness tomorrow is laundry day in Luray. We had decided that the accommodation in the national park was too expensive, so we are going into town to wash clothes, resupply and hit up an outfitters.We stopped at the Stables for a bathroom and coke break. I listened as the least knowledgeable "wrangler" I think I've ever met confused and frustrated potential clients. When was the next ride? He didn't know. Could they sign up? He didn't know. How many people can go on a ride? He didn't know. Where do they sign up for the next ride? He didn't know. Where could they go to find out the answers to these questions? He didn't know. I got frustrated just listening to him. I wondered if he really worked there or if he just wore the clothes.Redspecs and I hiked to the Taproom at the Skyland Resort. We ordered beers, a burger & fries, a quesadilla and lemon tart to split. It all tasted so good. I also realized how much I enjoyed having his company. Our hiking partnership just sort of happened. I have no idea how it will last, but it is certainly more fun having someone to eat, drink and "cheers" with!We waddled out at about 4:20. Our bellies were full, and I was feeling a little tipsy. We tettered our way down to Little Stony Man Cliffs. The sun was shining bright. It was clear except for a uniform white wash across the vista. We took turns perching atop the rocks and taking each other's pictures. Redspecs is a professional photographer back in German, so I think the quality of my photos will certainly improve!We found a nice flat spot about 75 yards before the Pinnacles Picnic area. We both saw it seperately, investigated it seperately, and when we met up at the bathroom, we excitedly told each other about our finds! The idea of having a flushing toilet and sink to use in the morning was just too good of an opportunity to pass up. So we pitched our tents, ate dinner, hung the bear lines, and then I went back to the restrooms and took a sponge bath in the sink. I feel spit shined and good! We watched the sunset from a rocky outcrop near our campsite. The wind is blowing, so it should make for a nice cool evening. Sweet dreams, AT. Thank you for a great day!