Date: 2008-01-04
From: Brown Fork Gap Shelter, NC

To: Nantahala Outdoor Centre (NOC)
Miles today: 16.0
Weather: clear sky

1276m climbed ¢ 1873m down-5o C (23o F) ¢ 13o C (55.4o F) - 7 hoursI was expecting a cold night ¢ and why not? The forecaster said it would be cold and it was -3oC when I turned the light off at 7:00 p.m. So I put on all (nearly all) my clothes and put my boots in my sleeping bag. I even emptied the water bottles so I didn¢t have 3 litres of ice in the morning. But it was not to be. I woke to a balmy -5oC at 4:30 a.m.With such a mild temperature, breakfast and packing were relatively easy, although I am still stuck with the problem that since I am now carrying most of Susan¢s party gear, it doesn¢t all fit in my pack. When I made my pack, I didn¢t make sufficient allowance for all the bulky winter clothing and equipment.I mucked around until 7:00 a.m., fitted Yaktrax and then was off. The trail was slow going and I found it hard. It was uphill most of the way (1200m by lunch time) and despite the Yaktracs, it was 2 steps forward, 1 step back. The snow was slippery although not deep. So by lunchtime I had covered 14 12 kms (9 miles) and climbed 1200m in 4 1/4 hours. Maybe I had reason for being tired or maybe my legs have got weak since Maine, as the last two days are really the first time since Maine when the trail was steep. The trail either went up bumps head-on or in steep zigzags. There were a few exceptions but not many. It was a great day for hiking whatever the trail was like. No clouds, no wind and good views through the trees. It was even warm enough for me to take my fleece jacket off by 10:00 a.m.A half hour or so out of Brown Gap Fork Shelter, I came across foot-prints going my way. I was stunned. I stopped and stared. How can footprints, and presumably people, just appear like that? I moved on. More footprints. Then it became clear. A couple of people had come up from the next road (Stecoah Gap Road), then stopped and turned around. One thing I can¢t get used to is how many roads cross these hills. And people routinely drive in and walk an hour or so one way or the other. It is rare to find anyone more than an hour from a road.I walked on, following footprints. A change from following animal tracks. And there I saw it! A tent on Locust Cove Gap ¢ a full two hours from the last road. The occupants appeared to be at home, which considering the temperature and amount of snow, was not too surprising.The 400m climb out of Locust Cove Gap to the top of Cheoah Bald (1520m) was steep and hard. And the rhododendrons kept dropping snow down my neck. But once I got up there, I was presented with a grand view to the south and west (the only side of the ¢Bald¢ that was clear).Snow on Cheoah Bald - photo by SANFORD - Scott WilsonView west of Cheoah BaldSnow view of Smoky Mtns from Cheoah Bald - Dingle Haus - Casey HorriganI was of two minds about where to stay that night but as I approached NOC and saw the other side of the valley plastered in snow, my mind was made up. A warm bunk at NOC was preferable to the next shelter which was in heavy snow.NOC is a huge place. Too many buildings to count. Some 20 or 30 buses (at a guess), an outfitter (sports shop), eating places, it has it all. My guess is that it is bedlam in mid summer.Now, for a hot shower and a cup of tea!Nantahala Outdoor Center