Date: 2017-04-04
From: Uncle Johnny's Hostel (Erwin, TN)

To: Iron Mountain Gap, TN
Miles today: 20.2

Day 28: Erwin, TN to Iron Mountain Gap, TN - 20.2 miles:At 10pm last night, standing in the bunkhouse of Uncle Johnny's, a handful of hikers listening to music, reading, or chatting, I knew I wouldn't be able to get a good night's sleep just like the prior night. With Toepick more or less confirming we were done hiking together, there was no reason for me to wait until the next day to get moving. Having told her and Odin bye an hour before, I decided to pack up my gear and cover four miles to the next shelter where I hoped few hikers would be, and I might get some sleep as a result. At 10:30pm I set out into the night, the light of my headlamp illuminating the trail before me. The four miles would pass quickly as adrenaline coursed through my body. Had it not been for the roaring Nolichucky River, running parallel with the AT for close to half the distance to the shelter, I probably would've heard it running through my veins.With sweat dripping from my forehead and my breath turning into fog as I panted my way uphill, I reached Curley Maple Gap Shelter just as my watch hit midnight. I quickly shined my light into the shelter and found two hikers sleeping, looking like fat grubs inside their sleeping bags. I made my way about 50ft away from the shelter to unpack what I'd need for sleeping in the shelter, hoping the distance would prevent them from hearing me. However, as I returned to the shelter and attempted to hang my pack on a chord hanging from the ceiling, it snapped and made a loud thunk noise. Fail. One of the hikers woke up, but didn't seem upset, and bkefly chatted with me - who I was, where I came from, weather forecast, etc.. Within a few minutes I was lying in my sleeping bag, my body covered in sweat, trying to shelter from the coolness of the night beginning to set in. Although I would only get close to six hours of sleep, it was deep enough to leave me feeling refreshed when I woke at 7am. After a sloppy morning deuce, due to the Italian food from the previous evening, I was back on the trail by 7:45am.Although it rained a little during the early morning hours, the morning was partly cloudy, and would gradually transition into a sunny, clear day as the day rolled along. As I reached Beauty Spot, an exposed ridge of short grass and few trees, I exchanged a few jabbing comments with Scarecrow, Stitch, and Smiles as they were calmly slack-packing south. Scarecrow asked why I was sweating so much, lightly punching me in the shoulder as he passed. I grabbed a few pictures of the surrounding mountains along the exposed ridge, but the cold wind forced me to continue on into the trees despite the sunny sky. The trail would then skirt along Red Fork Road before beginning its rise up Unaka Mountain, the high point of the day. Close to two-thirds of the way up, as I neared the spruce forest atop the summit, I stumbled across one decorated just off the trail. A family commemorates a loved one who died in his early 20's by decorating a spruce tree with a variety of colorful ornaments. With the smell of Christmas filling the air, it seemed to fit.A few hundred yards later after passing through the thickest stretch of spruce forest, the sun almost blocked out entirely, I found a small patch of soft grass where the sun found its way through. I sat in the small patch of warmth, the wind gently blowing through the spruce trees overhead, but blocked down low where I sat, and rested as I ate lunch. The only thing that ruined the moment was the thought and taste of the crap I once again had to shove in for calories - tuna, beef sticks, beef jerky, M&M's, and a Cliff Bar. With only three miles to go before I'd reach Cherry Gap Shelter, my goal of 17 miles for the day, I was entertaining the idea of getting their early, posting up in the sun, and passing the day away by reading or snoozing. However, as I reached the shelter in what seemed no time at all, my legs felt good and I chose to continue on.Around an hour later as I approached Iron Mountain Gap, I met a man named Doug, aka "Hiker Finder", who, like his name suggests, was walking up the trail to see if he could find any hikers. He told me there was trail magic up ahead so I gladly slowed my pace, fully prepared to enjoy some unexpected treats. When I reached the road, I noticed a white van that Robert Bird has become known for. A large Casper decal adorns each side, along with the words "The friendly AT van". They opened the back of the van which housed a carpeted floor and full couch, along with lawn chairs, and a couple coolers. I was given a Coke, a hard-boiled egg with salt, and told to sit in one of the chairs and relax. As I did we delved a little into sports, politics, and the trail. Other than another hiker, Hawkeye, who was slack-packing another four miles to the Greasy Creek Friendly, I told Rob and Doug I'd be the only one passing that point today.Rob would go on to tell me of his history with owning/running a hostel in Massachusetts, known as the Bird Cage, for a dozen years before closing his doors in 2012 and moving to Unicoi, TN in order to be around the AT. Since then he has regularly provided trail magic in a series of road-crossings, occasionally inviting hikers to stay at his place, grab a hot shower, and enjoy some real food. The best thing about it? It only costs a little work around his home and some conversation. With my plans for the remainder of the after still up in the air, but having already passed my goal for the day, I told him if his offer was available to me, I'd gladly accept. Soon enough I was sitting on the couch in the back of the van as we dropped out of the mountains into Unicoi.Rob welcomed me into his home and has made me feel like family as soon as I entered. Upon entering, I noticed an entire wall devoted to the AT - summit pictures and dozens of hiker pictures and thank-you notes he's held on to over the years. He also told me he is a quarter Native American which helped explain the Native American decor seen in almost every direction - plates, dream-catchers, pictures, statues, and the like. I was able to enjoy a hot shower, given some clothes to lounge in, and a cold PBR. To hold up my end of the bargain, I cleaned all of his windows, something done last Spring by another hiker. We chatted the afternoon away before heading into Unicoi to enjoy dinner at a local diner. I enjoyed a half-pound burger, curly fries, and a tub of Coke; Rob enjoyed a club sandwich and fries. He also picked up the ticket which was beyond unnecessary, but greatly appreciated.We've since returned to his home where he currently sits flipping between Fox News and wrestling. I'm mindlessly watching as I sit next to him on his couch, journaling. It may or may not be biting off more than I can chew, given the terrain, but tomorrow, with the help of Rob, I will be shooting for 30 miles up and over the Roan Highlands. He will help by taking me north to Highway 19 where I will then slack-pack 30 miles south back to the gap I met him in today. He'll pick me up and house me again tomorrow evening. The thought of having another place to stay after what should be a rainy day will hopefully be the motivation I need to cover the distance needed. Two years ago I hiked 23 of those miles in one day which ended up with me nearly freezing in a hailstorm atop one of the several exposed balds. It's doable, but will definitely be a head-down-and-go kinda day. The Roan Highlands are no joke, with Roan Mountain being the final 6,000-footer until hikers reach the White Mountains of New Hampshire.For now, it's nearing 10pm and sleep is calling me. Hoping to be on the trail by 6:30-7am in order to get the miles in. Tomorrow may bring a lot of rain and sweat, but tonight my belly is full and a soft bed awaits.