Date: 2010-10-02
From: Rainbow Stream Lean-to

To: Abol Pines Campground
Miles today: 15.0
Weather: overcast clouds

The rain continued long and hard into the night but when I briefly woke up at 2 AM, it had stopped and only a light leaf rain precipitated down. Rolled over and went back to sleep hoping that was the end of it. Woke up in the chilly pre-dawn to temperatures in the upper forties, packed up my bag and pad and made breakfast and coffee. Peru, Radar and Wild Poodle all got up within minutes as we all knew we had a 15-mile day to stay on track for our 10/4 summit of Katahdin. Only two days before we're done! I delayed as long as I could putting on my still wet and very cold hiking clothes, socks and boots, but finally had to grit my teeth and just do it. It's one of the things I like least to do out here.Thankfully the stream by the shelter only rose a bit overnight with all the rain but not enough to wash away the two-log "bridge". Peru headed out first and crossed. The topographic map showed dead flat for seven miles but I've learned to not quite trust the maps so was not unduly surprised when we had a series of sharp 100-200' climbs.Peru, Radar, Wild Poodle and I hiked within close proximity of each other all morning as we skirted the very large Rainbow Lake. We stopped at a pretty spot on a hill with plentiful boulders so we could all sit down. Important criteria for choosing a lunch spot is the "sit" factor so finding a spot to accommodate four was lucky.The trail took us up on a ridge overlooking the lake, then down to skirt the shoreline. Most of the trail off the ridge was under water and very muddy. Wet feet were unavoidable. We were all dancing on rocks and logs trying to circumvent the worst of it. Small streams were swollen with rainwater and spilling over their banks. Where normally one would be able to just hop across these, now we had to ford them. Radar, our bridge engineer, moved downed trees across a couple of them over which we crossed.The counterpoint to the difficulties of the trail, chilly temperature, overcast skies and occasional drizzle was the colorful layer of red and yellow leaves carpeting the path with the trees reflected in the water.Eight miles into the day we started climbing up to the Rainbow Ledges. The water was just pouring down the rock slabs that were the trail (see video). We took a snack break on the top. There was a sign on top that said we were 21.2 miles from Katahdin. I could feel the excitement and knew at that moment I had done the right thing in not doing a flip-flop. I WANTED to feel that build-up to the Katahdin climax. Water, mud, rocks, cold, rain. It didn't matter. We were almost there! Even though we did not see the promised view of Katahdin because of the low clouds, we knew it was there, beckoning us¢challenging us. Giddy and grinning, we started down the Ledges.There was a short steep section which had us slipping and sliding for about 20 minutes. As we got down to the bottom, the trail once again was covered with water. We had to cross Hurd Brook before getting to the lean-to where we were going to stop for second lunch. It was way over its banks and raging. There was no easy, obvious path across so we took a convoluted, difficult route on boulders to get to a little spit of soggy high ground, walked across a tree that threatened to roll into the water any second and then bushwhacked about 20' back to the trail. There's no right or wrong way to cross; each of us did it according to our comfort level. Radar and I walked across the tree using our poles for balance; Peru and Wild Poodle did it on hands and knees.Another tenth of a mile and we were at the Hurd Brook Lean-to, the last on-trail shelter before Baxter. Four fresh mouse carcasses were lined up on the campfire ring (see photo if you're not squeamish). Looked like the hikers here last night had waged a major battle and won.After lunch, the trail abruptly became kind and the clouds started to lift and threaten sunshine. By the time we hit the Golden Road (so called by the locals because it cost so much to build), the skies had cleared and it was a picture perfect autumn day. Couldn't have asked for better as we crossed Abol Bridge and got our postcard view of Katahdin, albeit with the summit in the clouds.We crossed Abol Bridge and stopped at the camp store for an afternoon snack of hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, and Cokes. We met Linda who has owned the store for 20+ years but has sold it and will be retiring to Florida. After hanging around the store for awhile, we headed across the street to the Abol Pines Campground on the banks of the Penobscott River. The four of us stayed in a nice lean-to with a picnic table outside. We ate dinner, hung our wet clothes out to dry and settled in for the night.I've only built a few campfires during this hike because I was usually too tired to go to the trouble, but wanted one tonight so collected wood and got one going.   Even after a not-easy 15-mile day, I stayed up for quite awhile wrapping my mind around the fact we'll be at Katahdin Stream Campground tomorrow and summiting the day after. Watched as the stars came out in a now crystal clear sky. Just hope the weather holds.