Date: 2005-07-16
From: Stealth camp near Kinsman Pond campsite

To: Stealth camp north of Mr. Guyot
Miles today: 21.9

start: Stealth camp near Kinsman Pond campsitefinish: Stealth camp north of Mt. Guyot miles: 21.9day: 131I slept really good last night - somewhat surprising considering the teeny sort-of-flat spot I crammed the tarp into.  It was nice and cool, with a light breeze, so everything was dry in the morning.I woke around 5:30 and packed up the tarp, ate some little donuts for breakfast, and started hiking around 6:00.  Within a mile I had found and woken both Goldilocks and Tea Break.  They were camped in separate spots, both right on the edge of the trail like I was.  But they didn't set up until after dark, so didn't disturb anyone.We went to Lonesome Lake hut where I bought two Snickers and some gingerbread cake and lemonade.  There were lots of other thru-hikers there, including Chairman, Bars (aka Handlebars), and Snail.  Goldilocks played guitar with Bars.  He really loves having someone to jam with.Last night as we were approaching Kinsman Pond tentsites Goldilocks and Tea Break were talking about how in general the AMC, which uses all the camping in the Whites as a profit center, is not liked too much by thru-hikers due to their arrogant, condescending posture.  This morning we were sitting in the main room at Lonesome Lake hut during their morning radio call.  All the huts and caretaker sites are in radio communication, as well as a base station.  Well, we were surprised to hear descriptions of ourselves come over the air.  Seems the caretaker had overheard our comments and was warning all AMC facilities that we were hiking into the area and didn't like the AMC.  As if we're the only people who have ever not liked them.  On the air they all decided that if they encountered us they'd "educate" us as to how great AMC is.  Oh boy, I can't wait.  I've also noticed now that we've come into AMC-land that the caretakers always ask "where are you headed?"  When I say "Maine", they say "No, where are you headed tonight?"  I used to think this was idle conversation, but it ain't.  They must be coached, because they all ask it.  They're trying to make sure I am staying in one of their pay-for-stay controlled locations.  I don't stay in shelters anyway, but why would I pay $8.00 for the privelege just because I'm in New Hampshire?  So I just evade their question, because it's none of their damn business where I camp.  (This is my journal, expressing my thoughts during my hike.  I think mostly the AMC is made up nice people, if misguided.  I'm not trying to make political statements, convert others to my view, or ultimately write this for anyone but myself and a few friends and family.)It looked like Goldilocks was going to hang out there for a while, and I wanted to take advantage of our early start, so I hiked on alone today.  I kept hoping he might catch me, but no luck.  I just didn't want to be forced to do lots of miles late in the day, and I'm almost completely out of food, so I need to get to Crawford Notch mid day tomorrow.  But I missed hiking that beautiful Lafayette ridge with my hiking partner.  I would have liked to take a photo of the two of us standing at the summit sign, just like the one we took when Goldilocks was 8 years old.The ridge was pretty, with clouds moving in and out.  The only distraction was that there were so many people.  There must have been 100 people on Lafayette when I was there.  Oh yeah, it's a weekend.I stopped for a while on both Lincoln and Lafayette.  There was a lot of climbing today - perhaps 7000 feet total, so I just moved at a fairly slow 2 mph.  There are large sections of the trail where it's impossible to camp, which is another reason I did so many miles today.  I arrived at Galehead hut around 5:00.  They didn't have any "day soup" left, as they were preparing dinner.  But the cook, a 2004 thru-hiker named Indie, said I could still buy soup.  She just served me tonight's instead.  Sweet.  I wolfed down 2 bowls and a couple of glasses of lemonade, and I was ready to do my last few miles of the day.  All the other thru-hikers at Lonesome Lake, including Goldilocks, had talked about doing work-for-stay at Galehead.  I think there are only 2 spots open per day for this, so I hope things worked out for everyone.I have almost 10 (easy) miles down to the road tomorrow.  I hope Goldilocks catches me so we can go into town together.  Now it's time for sleep.  Today was a tough one, and my leg muscles are sore.  That's not supposed to happen to thru-hikers!