Date: 2006-06-17
From: Swatara Gap

To: Hertlein Shelter
Miles today: 17.0

A day that didn't end as planned. Many out here say they don't plan their days. They just hike until they feel like stopping. I planned because I have to be in Port Clinton tomorrow to meet Hope. This was supposed to be a 25 miles day but I cut it short at 17. Now it will be 17 more tomorrow instead of 10. I cruised along this morning over smooth level trail. Then the rocks began. I stopped for lunch at 501 shelter after 11 miles. I was feeling good and strong and figured I could finish the hike before dark. I was wrong.Until this point the famous Pennsylvania rocks haven't been too bad. Tough in places but only for short stretches. Today they lasted 6 miles and go on for most of the way tomorrow. There were difficult parts in Virginia and most of Maryland. These PA rocks are even worse.Instead of level ground you walk a trail that is only rock. Step from stone to stone when you can, but those stones are all loose and they rock under your feet. They're all shapes and sizes so it's hard to get a footing. My pace slowed to about a mile an hour. They also really wear you out. Hell on the feet and the whole body. I used my poles continuously for balance and to brace against falls. Whole upper body, especially shoulders, is sore. Feet like raw meat. Tomorrow should be even more fun. It's going to be in the 90's. Bad enough, but the heat alone brings out the snakes. Jaywalker said he saw 7 today. One of them struck him and bit into his gaiter. A couple out geocaching saw 11. I'm getting out as early as possible in the morning and hiking as far as I can while it's cool. I'm cowboy camping tonight so I son't have to worry about my tent in the morning. Just put away the sleeping bag and go as soon as I open my eyes. I'm a little worried, but like every challenging thing I do out here. I'll just face my fears.Decent day pre-rocks. Moved quick and got in a good rhythm. I hadn't been on trail m ore than a few minutes when I met a trail angel putting out a cooler full of ice and Gatorade. I snagged a couple of bottles, one to drink and one to carry. I dilute it in my water and use it after heavy sweating.I bumped into a day hiker on a long ridge and stopped to talk. He's been hiking since the 70's when gear was heavy and 70 pound packs were common. Still not sure how thru-hikers made it all the way back then, but there were a lot fewer of them. Only the strong survived. He hiked with me for several miles telling telling stories of hiking and hunting. I developed a better respect for hunting as he told me more about the sport. Sounds like most hunters have a healthy respect for the forest and environment just like most hikers. He did a little trail magic of his own. Being a hiker he has an appetite for cherry pie and shared what he had in his truck.I stopped at 501 shelter for lunch and water and ran into Squirrel and Rat Puke for the first time since Roan Mountain back in mid-April. I'd heard they were back on trail and had skipped the state of Virginia. I figured I'd never see them again. One of the tricks of the trail.Right after the shelter the rocks started and I knew it would be a shorter mile day. Too bad because I'd been looking forward to getting to Hope's by early afternoon and having a longer visit. Now I might not make it until after dinner if the trail is as slow as I expect. By my schedule I was going to stay Sunday all of Monday and leave around dinner time on Tuesday. From there I'd see Dick and Tony and return to the trail on Wednesday. I'd get some decent down time, see the baby, resupply and get all of my gear in order. The usual tasks off trail plus some time to relax. I'll go as fast as I can tomorrow, but an 18 mile day even on easy trail is a long one.A couple more hours sleep and I'm off.