Date: 2016-03-23
From: Beech Gap Tenting Area

To: Near Winding Stair Gap
Miles today: 17.5
Weather: overcast clouds

"I'm a hiker, not a thru-hiker. You can't go for a jog and then call yourself a marathoner...or take a few courses and then put a "PhD" after your name. I'll be a thru-hiker when I reach Katahdin."   - Sir FobDay 11I awoke refreshed, re-charged...and to a roaring campfire. (Thanks, Night Whisperer!). Albert Mountain notwithstanding, this had the potential to be a big mileage day. My heels felt much better and I wanted to get within striking distance of Franklin and a hot shower and meal.I ate a pop tart and half a Baby Ruth candy bar, turned on my AT Playlist, and motored out of camp. I played Leap Frog with Once a Day...not the actual game as that would have been awkward and inefficient...rather, we kept passing each other as we stopped for water, snack time, etc.As we approached Mooney Gap, I spotted a car, some chairs, and a table of food...yes, it was time for some Trail Magic, courtesy of The Wanderer! I had a Coke, a glazed donut and a hot dog with 2 Advil and mustard on it. Bert arrived shortly after me, and bummed 2 cigarettes off The Wanderer...gutsy move. As I sat there in pure hiker bliss, I told myself that somehow, somewhere, someday, I'm going to set up a magnificent trail magic stop along the AT and encourage others the way these stops have encouraged me. Little did I know I would shortly be burning every one of those calories to conquer Albert Mountain.Albert Mountain...where to begin? I measure difficult climbs by the number of times I have to stop, catch my breath, and wipe the dirt off my tongue. Albert...Big Al...Fat Albert...takes the prize, so far, as the toughest climb for me. It was also the first time I had to scramble, i.e., put the trekking poles up and climb hand over hand up and over boulders and things. I climbed to what I thought was the summit, only to find there was another section. After grinding up the second phase and thinking I was done, I looked up and saw a fire tower still another quarter mile ahead and straight up. Halfway through the vertical scramble, as I gasped for air, 2 young day-hikers with Fannie packs blew past me talking and laughing. I tried to trip the second one with my pole but wasn't quick enough. In another moment of exhaustion and moral weakness, I may have, under my breath, called them "loser punk kids." My reward for grinding it out was a magnificent view, although the top of the fire tower was locked.On the long descent off Albert, I paired up with Maia, the pastry chef from Indiana. Over the next hour, I learned more about the pastry business and kitchen drama than I ever thought possible. As she talked, I seriously considered changing my trail name to Creampuff or Strudel Steve. I also learned that Maia hasn't slept well and has way too heavy a pack...so she's wondering whether to continue. I tried to encourage her and we discussed ways to lower her pack weight.I stopped for the night at about mile 108.2, on the mountain between Wallace Gap and Winding Stair Gap. It had been a fun 17.5-mile day, my longest yet. And I had positioned myself for a short hike to Winding Stair Gap in the morning to catch a shuttle into Franklin.I zipped myself into my cocoon and put my earplugs in. Then, as I laid there alone on that mountain top, my thoughts turned to my wife...and warm pastries.Fob