Date: 2010-09-27
From: Stealth Site on Columbus Mountain

To: Carl A. Newhall Lean-to
Miles today: 10.5
Weather: overcast clouds

Broke camp at a reasonable time and were happy we didn't try to push the 2 miles last night because Columbus was difficult. The day was overcast with low flying clouds threatening rain at some point. The kaleidoscope of autumn colors, however, is magnificent with even the low growing plants bordering the trail all dressed in reds, oranges and yellows.We stopped 2 miles uptrail at Chairback Lean-to get water and have a snack. While there, we read the shelter register. Freeman, who we met way down south and then again coming into Caratunk, had made an entry a few days before. Following is an excerpt from his entry."In a conversation I had with my Mom recently where [my recent] ailments were discussed, my Mom said, "Freeman, are you trying to kill yourself?""Being the dutiful son, I tried to reassure her by explaining that death may take one at any time, so best to not live in fear, but with gusto!"Apparently, this was not the right answer. My mother took from my comments that I am out here in an attempt of a Christopher McCandless (aka Alexander Supertramp)-esque suicide, and told my dad that when he got here he needed to abduct me and take me home to the safety of suburbia."Thankfully, when I showed up to meet my dad I was the picture of health, vigor, vitality and stamina. I was able to convince him I am not seeking a grisly wilderness demise, and was misunderstood when I tried to explain to my Mom that to me, it is a pointless waste of time to worry about the inevitable (death). Better to invest one's energies to living life to the fullest, which I believe I am doing out here on the trail."In the past few days I have watched waterfalls; been reunited with many NoBo trail friends; consorted with gray jays, kinglets, chickadees, woodpeckers, juncos and robins; been awestruck by the variety and beauty of the magnificent mushrooms; had mice dance on my face; climbed rocky cliffs; felt the warm sun on my skin; been chilled by the life-giving rains; been serenaded by the eerie, lilting song of the loons; shivered from the cold nights; looked out on the world as if a god in the heavens while perched on Whitecap; felt both piercing and throbbing pain in my ankles reminding me of my mortality; and through all of it have felt the pure joy of life¢so glad to be alive and blessed with such abundance, peace and happiness."It had both of us in tears before we even finished reading it. He SO captured exactly how we feel about the experiences and mindset out here on the trail. I'm writing this entry weeks after the day from my notes and it still brings tears to my eyes.We went up and over Chairback Mountain, again with no views as we were in the clouds, and were then confronted with a tough rock scramble over big boulders on the sharp descent which took us over an hour to traverse. Finally made it to the bottom and crossed a rugged woods road where we found a cooler with cans of iced tea. Being in the Wilderness, the trail magic was quite unexpected which I think made it even more of a pleasure.Our ford across the west branch of the Pleasant River was not hard. The rocks were slippery but the current was gentle and it was scarcely knee deep. We stopped for lunch and then had a gradual 1,000 foot climb over 5 miles and then another 1,000 foot climb over 2 miles to get to the Sidney Tappan Campsite which would make up the two miles we missed yesterday and keep us on track. We were sorely tempted to take an offtrail side trip on to see the Gulf Hagas Gorge which is billed as "The Grand Canyon of the East," a 500 foot gorge featuring five major waterfalls. With the fog and imminent rain, we didn't take it. Definitely a must see the next time I'm in Maine.We made it the 5 miles to the Carl A. Newhall Lean-to by late afternoon and decided to stay there rather than tent at the campsite two miles ahead as it was starting to rain and get cold. We sheltered with Peru and Radar and were glad to be under roof as it rained all night.