Date: 2005-04-15
From: Stan Murray Shelter

To: Elk Park, NC
Miles today: 10.4

I awoke with a sense of urgency since I had a package waiting at the Elk Park post office and wanted to be there before it closed at 4:00PM. Having the shelter to myself allowed me the luxury of leisurely gnawing on my last food item, a chunk of cheddar cheese, chasing it with cold spring water and being on the trail by 7:30. Being motivated I passed quickly by the Overmountain Shelter, giving little thought to taking the short trail to it in order to see what makes it so special. Instead I scurried on wondering only peripherally whether there was yet any waking activity or if they were already on the trail. Knowing most of the likely inhabitants satisfied me that they were only now beginning to stir with the morning sunshine and would lazily ease into the day after yesterday's Roam Mt. buttkicker.Soon I was making a climb from 4250' to Little Hump Mt. at 5459'. Little Hump is a bald, and so is essentially treeless with great views in every direction, weather permitting. As a bald it is easy to see the top from its base, or so one may think confidently gazing skyward before beginning the climb. At this point the term "False Summit" comes into play. What appears to be the summit is not so at all and once you completely bust your ass (the word "ass" being used only in bigger climbs and "butt" for others) you are warmly greeted with the reality that the actual summit is higher still, and maybe not even there. There can be 3, maybe 4 false summits before finally reaching the top. It's mountain humor and just what mountains do in order to wring the last ounce of sweat from your beaten, battered body before finally pulling yourself over the top, only to be greeted by...another false summit. So it was a real workout, but the mountain's gift was equally humbling. Once on top I was walking even with 2 soaring hawks. Just think about that! We looked at each other as equals; I could see their colors and their eyes. Watching them soar on the very same thermals that surrounded me provided the exalted sense of being a lower middle class Irish Greek God. It was awesome!Hump Mt. was even worse than Little Hump Mt. Higher, steeper, more false summits, but oh, the views. Halfway up I began to see people back in the distance on the trail. Evidently there was some activity in the Barn, people were moving about and getting into the hiking day. I took a long break at the summit and eventually Skillet and Bottle, newlyweds from San Antonio, arrived. We chatted for awhile and I headed down the mountain while they continued their break.On the downward side the slope flattened considerably and, treeless, the mountainside showed evidence of being used for grazing -- cow patties! Soon I encountered the source of the fresh manure, a small herd of longhorn cattle. Not something I expected on the AT and it gave me a good laugh.Soon I was into the flatter land and into the woods, gentle switchbacks allowing me to run in order to avoid being caught by the barn dwellers. It felt good. In fact, it felt great to be able to cruise down the slopes, about as in control as in any aspect of my personal life. (just barely that is). Running is good.Eventually Skillet and Bottle passed me, but by 1:30 I was of the trail and headed for the post office and the closest restaurant in Elk Park, NC. We stayed at the restaurant for a long period of time and were eating during all of it. Rural restaurants in the South are noted for generous servings of good food and low prices. We all had huge meals and lots of ice cream. It couldn't have been better. Somewhere in the course of our break the idea of calling Bob Peoples at Kincora Hostel to pick us up for a night off the trail emerged. Bob agreed and we said goodbye to our friends at the restaurant and headed for one of the nicest and least expensive hostels on the AT ($4.00/night donation for bunk, towel, and shower!) Life, as always, was great.