Date: 2007-05-22
From: Roan High Knob Shelter

To: Apple House Shelter
Miles today: 14.7

Today was one of the best days on the trail from the perspective of the beautiful scenery and terrain we hiked through. I left the shelter at about 8am, ahead of Huck. Unlike the very steep climbs up here yesteday, the descent was gradual but still quite rocky. There was very little elevation loss, by the time I reached Carvers Gap, and there would not be much more since all of today's hike would stay in the higher elevations.Unlike previous days where I'd hike up to a Bald from the forest and descend the Bald back into the forest, today was quite different. After Carvers Gap, most of today's hike traversed one bald mountain summit after another. I imagined that this was what it must be like in the Scottish Highlands. As a matter of fact the area hiked today is known as the Roan Highlands.I reach the first bald, Round Bald (5826 ft.), after hiking 2 miles. After that it was Jane Bald, where I took a wrong turn and almost hiked a good distance away from the AT. Up on the balds the trail blazes are sparse since there are no trees to paint the blazes on. All the blazes are either painted on rocks or wooden posts. I was following the well defined narrow dirt trail but with my eyes focused on the trail, I missed a trail junction, and continued on a side trail to a place called Grassy Ridge. I hiked on for about 1/2 mile and stopped for a break and to enjoy the outstanding views. As I continued I noticed a group camping in this location. I wasn't going to stop and talk with them but at the last minute decided to say hello. During the course of our conversation I indicated I was thru hiking and they said I was not on the AT. Sure enough, I checked their maps and realized my mistake. So I retraced my steps and found the AT. I hiked almost an extra mile off the AT, but realized it was worth the peace and well being I experienced on Grassy Ridge. The trail at this point did descend gradually into the woods for a short distance but then followed some grassy meadows. We had decided to meet for lunch at a shelter called Overmountain Shelter. Right before the shelter there was a sign explaining some of the history of this area. During the Revolutionary War, local militias gathered and met in this location. They traveled over the mountains in some bleak weather to eventually engage and defeat the British Loyalists in a key battle. These men became known as the Overmountain Men. The Overmountain Shelter is basically an old red barn situated at the top of a sloping meadow, with pristine views of the surrounding mountains. The barn was renovated by a local hiking club for use as an AT shelter It was a beautiful setting and a great place to stop for a lunch break.We set a goal to hike another 9 miles this afternoon. About 3-4 of those miles took us over some of the most breathtaking scenery I have seen so far on the trail (with the exception of a few days in the Smokies). It was a tough climb after lunch, but once I had reached the 5000+ ft. point, I was up on Little Hump Mtn (5459 ft.). This was all open grassy terrain, with magnificent views in all directions. Looking north I could see Hump Mountain about 1.5 miles away. The trail was plainly visible on Hump Mountain 1.5 miles away, from where I stood on Little Hump Mountain. The view of Hump Mountain from this distance looked very similar to Mount Lafayette in the White Mountains.The climb up Hump Mountain (5587 ft.) in the late afternoon was tough, but views all around me, made it all worth the effort. The landscape all the way up and at the summit consisted of rocky outcroppings and foot high grass which swayed back and forth in the strong wind. I had to rest for a while at the top to catch my breath not just from the climb, but from gazing at the views all around me.After Hump Mountain we were feeling quite spent, but needed to slug it out for another 5 miles before we reached Apple House Shelter for the night. There is a story that this shelter is haunted. As the story goes, the apparition of a boy sometimes stands outside the doorway and gazes into the shelter. I didn't mention it to Huck. As I settled into my sleeping bag, and turned my headlamp off, the story was on my mind and I couldn't help but turn my eyes in the direction of the shelter entrance now and then.