Date: 2007-09-27
From: Abol Pines Lean-to

To: Katahdin Stream Campground
Miles today: 9.9
Weather: light rain

I woke up to a light rain on the shelter roof at about 5.00 AM; a good morning to roll over and go back to sleep for a while. The rain ended by about 8.00 so I walked up to the Abol Bridge Camp Store to get a hot fresh cup of coffee and box of donuts to start the wet and cool morning. Katahdin was hidden in the thick dark clouds but its presence could be felt over the brooding Penobscot River. Finally about 9.00 I headed up the trail hoping to complete the 10 miles to Katahdin Stream Campground by mid afternoon before the predicted heavy rain set in.Crossing a dry marsh about a half mile up the trail I got a nice view of the lower half of the mountain but thick dark clouds were hanging about midway up the slopes. I hoped to see a moose in the marsh and gray misty weather is a good time to see wildlife out and about. Unfortunately the marsh was empty of the famous ungulates who are said to have been designed by a committee who couldn't agree so each committee member got to pick their favorite characteristic and the end result was pasted together into an animal who must be seen to be believed.At the Baxter State Park self registration kiosk I stopped and signed the trail register. As I signed in the ridgerunner, Blueberry, walked up to start her day. I had met Blueberry at Horns Pond Lean-to a week or so ago and we remembered each other. It turned out she was a UVM grad and had lived in CO for a while and loved the Durango area. After nearly an hour of rambling conversation I needed to go; and so began my last day on the AT with a full pack, my 6-month goal hidden in the rain clouds but just a few short miles ahead.Just after I left the kiosk it began to rain steadily and heavily so I put on my rain gear and continued up the trail. It seemed silly to wear rain gear since I would soon be just as wet from condensation inside the gear as I would have from wearing no gear at all.The trail followed along the north bank of the Penobscot River for the next 4 miles. This is a wide, deep and fast flowing river with dark water and a rich history of spring log drives. The trail was on very gentle grades and ran close to the river for miles so I made good time upstream. There was lots of moose sign all along the trail and I kept hoping to see one but only heard an animal crashing away from beside the trail in the thick undergrowth.Finally the trail left the river and turned up along the Nesowadnehunk Stream. It was a fast, wide and clear stream that was surprisingly deep in places. There was an unexpected ford in one place and several hand lines had been stretched tight across the stream to aid hikers trying to balance crossing on the top of several narrow logs laid across the creek. I decided this situation looked pretty sketchy in the wet weather and put on my crocs to ford it instead because it was only mid-calf deep. Just as I made it to the middle of the stream Cobweb, Dirty and Mala walked up and decided to try the dry crossing on the narrow logs. So I stayed in the middle of the stream and took pictures of them walking the narrow logs, hoping to get a good photo of someone bailing off into the cold water! Fortunately for them (unfortunately for me) no one dumped and they all made it safely across the small wet logs.By this time it was 1.00 PM. I was hoping to reach Katahdin Stream Campground by 3.00 to catch the shuttle ride into the AT hostel in Millinocket. Due to the late hour I decided against stopping at the waterfalls along the stream and instead spend whatever extra time I might have looking for moose at Daicey Pond, Elbow Pond or Tracy Pond. No moose to be seen at any of the ponds.I arrived at Katahdin Stream campground about 2.30 to find 9 other hikers also waiting for the same shuttle to Millinocket. Most had summited earlier in the day but the weather was cold, windy and fogged in on top with no views for most of their climb. The weather forcast at the Ranger Station was for 100% chance of rain over night and 70% chance on Friday so I decided to set my summit date for Saturday or Sunday, depending on the weather.We were picked up by Old Man, the owner of the AT Hostel and AT Caf© in Millinocket, and a former AT thru-hiker himself. I had met him and his wife at the Hiker Hostel in Dahlonega, GA the night before I began my hike up Springer Mt and we remembered each other. It was good to see him again, and neat to be one of the few to have completed this journey this year. They were good folks and I looked forward to staying in their hostel.Old Man strapped 6 packs on the roof of the Suburban, put 4 more in the back, and crammed 10 stinky hikers into the vehicle for the 45 minute drive back to town. It's no wonder we were all glad to arrive in one piece, and get out of the car and back into fresh air in spite of the light rain.I got a bed in the bunkhouse, showered and met Mom and Dad for dinner at the AT Caf©. It soon began raining steadily and I was very glad to be staying warm and dry inside the hostel instead of camping out in the park. Prospects for summiting tomorrow in clear weather look grim, with Saturday's weather still questionable. But, it;'s nice to have folks in town who are willing to wait with me for the day with the best weather on the mountain!