Date: 2018-04-12
From: Overmountain Shelter

To: US-19E - Mountain Harbour Hostel and B&B 
Miles today: 9.2

It was dawn at Overmountain Shelter when I unzipped the door of my tent and pulled back the rain fly. Taken by the view I nudged Which Way, ¢Take a look, Sweetie.¢ In that moment, I was thankful that we made it to this point on the trail yesterday, pitched our tent at this spot, and had a remarkable view to the south this morning. When I finally emerged from our cozy mobile home, I breathed in the crisp morning air and looked around to see other hikers meeting the day. Finn & Happy Feet, Mel, Heartburn, and Spirit Man were tented behind us. I introduced myself to a couple tented next to us, Poe and Savage, and their dog, Spartacus. I was thankful to share the dawning day with Tramily. When the sun finally made its yellow glow over Little Hump Mountain, it instantly brought warmth to the day. Soon afterward we were hiking out in short sleeves. The trail greeted us with an incline that 200 miles ago would have earned a name like ¢Jacob¢s Ladder.¢ Now, it was just another climb among climbs. A few moments into the ascent I looked back to see the barn that we were just standing on level with. Now though, it was well below us. I was thankful for ¢trail legs¢, that even after a strenuous hike that ended barely 12 hours ago, were responding nicely to the early morning challenge. A few moments later we emerged from the trees and could see clearly that the ascent had just begun. Little Hump Mountain lay bare of trees, allowing the observer to trace the path to the top, far above. But, there is something about a bald that creates a sense of euphoria that masks any physical discomfort typically associated with such a rise in elevation. I am thankful for the sense of overwhelming joy that easily supersedes labored breathing so often on this journey.After stretching our warm muscles and meditating on the beauty that surrounded us, we worked our way off one side of Little Hump, following the trail into the trees as it arched its way into position to advance up ¢Big¢ Hump Mountain. As we meandered through the forest we came to a spring, where we would water up for the day. I was thankful to have my dirty bag back. Other hikers were flowing in to get water from the same spring. Since it was getting congested in the tight space, Which Way continued on as soon as her water bladder was filled with cool and fresh spring water. I wrapped up my business soon thereafter and hit the trail hard in an effort to catch her. It was just a few hundred meters down the trail before I emerged from the tree line, to a site that took my breath away. I stood at the gap between the two ¢Humps¢ in sheer amazement! Yet another beautiful bald mountain. Have I been transported to the Scottish Highlands? I traced the path meandering its way to the top, straining to see WW. There she was, just a tiny speck on the trail about 1/3 of the way to top of the mountain. The speck moved with steady determination and I took off to catch her, but she was motoring up the steep mountain, undoubtedly on an adrenaline high. She was at the top of the steep climb in 10 minutes. I was still a couple of minutes behind, but close enough that we could see one another and read the body language clearly¢overwhelming joy. I took out my camera and snapped a picture of her looking down from a boulder in her victory pose. She took out her camera and captured me finishing the climb to join her. As I approached her, I was holding back tears, so thankful to be married to this strong woman. The stretch of trail from Carver¢s Gap (yesterday) to Hump Mountain, has been my favorite so far. Really, it is hard to describe, as have been so many moments on this journey. I am so very thankful that my Sheesh (WW) and I are able to share the experience together.We lingered on Hump Mountain for a while. Enjoying a good signal, I uploaded the previous day¢s journal entry photos while WW called family to try her best to describe the moment. Impossible!Now for the hard part, the 3,000¢ descent to our destination. We followed the path (mostly a narrow rut) off the bald and into the forest. Soon we were hiking over rock falls on the side of the mountain. Nonetheless, the scenery was nice, with occasional cliffs, moss-covered boulders, and spring flowers. About halfway through the descent we came to a clearing with views down to some cabins and farms. It was the kind if setting that causes one to pause, point and say, ¢I¢d like to have a house right there¢. At the end of ¢Doll Fats¢ we came to a sign that said, ¢Leaving North Carolina.¢ Much of the AT since entering the Smokey Mountains had scooted along the NC/TN border. Often, a shelter would be in one State while the water source, located on the other side of the trail, would be in the other State. Of course, we visited towns and hostels in both States. But now, we were exiting North Carolina for good! It means we officially have two States down and only 12 to go. The trail and shelters in North Carolina are well maintained and I would be remiss if I did not say that that I am thankful for the National Park and Forests Services, the Carolina Mountain Club, and other volunteers who help keep the trail viable for the millions of lucky people who set foot on it each year. I am also thankful for the wonderful trail-friendly communities in NC and some really awesome trail angels who seemed to always appear in just the right place at just the right time.Although we still had a couple of more miles of downhill hiking, the trail surface became much gentler as we hiked into lower elevations. I also noticed buds on some of the trees. In a few weeks we will undoubtedly be hiking in the green tunnel. I am thankful that we were able to hike a good portion of the trail in cooler (yes, sometimes frigid) temperatures and with forest views enabled by the winter trees. We crossed the busy US-19 just before 2PM. Our destination, the Mountain Harbor Hostel was about a 1/4 mile hike down the road. As we were crossing to the other side, I saw Crazy Brit and D2 exiting the trail from the opposite direction (SOBO). They were still slack packing and their buddy, Uncle D, was there to pick them up. Thinking quickly, I ¢Yogied¢ a ride from Uncle D down to the hostel. I am thankful for my Yogying skills.The Mountain Harbor is a lovely Hostel and B&B. A stream runs through the property, with the hostel and camp store on one side and the B&B on the other. There is a permanent food truck sitting next to the camp store, which we took advantage of in no time. I would classify the Mountain Harbor as a 5-star hostel due to the setting, appearance, amenities, and hiker-friendly service. We had booked a semi-private King Room in the hostel. But, when we arrived, we upgraded to the Jefferson Room in the B&B and asked that they kindly hold the King room for Finn & Happy Feet. When they called to make reservations from Overmountain this morning, the hostel was full and they were going to have to tent. I am thankful that the Mountain Harbor staff accommodated our request. In closing, the B&B is very nice. So much to be thankful for. So, so much!                            -Next StepElevation Data:                  Weather:Ascent ~ 1,550                    Day ¢ 76 degrees / SunnyDescent ~ 3,400                  Night ¢ 47 degrees / ClearGrade ~ 10.2Over the Horizon: Damascus, VA