Date: 2018-04-20
From: Campsite before Moreland Gap Shelter

To: Boots Off Hostel
Miles today: 16.5

Day 45Got up early and had Poptarts and got going as, you guessed it, it was cold this morning. Tent stakes were frozen in and the tent poles were all frost, which means our fingers got very cold. We hiked ourselves warm and when we made it the 1 1/2 miles to Moreland Gap Shelter we stopped for a cup of tea. We soon heard Papa Dale, Kingsman, & Tabasco (we call them the 3 Amigos) chatting as they came down the switchbacks toward the shelter. They stopped for a quick visit and we exchanged plans for the day and they were off.Around lunch time we arrived at Dennis Cove Road to see the 3 Amigos eating lunch. They had run up to Bob Peoples Hostel to try to grab a soda, but he wasn't there. We needed a few things for resupply, so we ditched our packs in the woods and headed in the other direction to the Black Bear Resort. There we were able to get the things we needed even if they were overpriced. The best part was we were able to cook a pizza for lunch and have a bag of Fritos while we waited. Mary and I split a local brew with our pizza and topped everything off with ice cream sandwiches for dessert all while sitting on their deck looking out over the river. Reluctantly we headed back down to get our packs and continue on our way. A dog followed us all the way back to where we left our packs, but thankfully then it headed back the other way and didn't follow us down the trail.As the day warmed up we made our way down to Laurel Falls. A very impressive waterfall with a beautiful river running. Our feet were aching so bad we couldn't help but stop and soak for about 15 minutes. The water was so cold it numbed our feet after about 1 minute. We would put our feet in and soak them and lift them back out to regain feeling. It really does make your feet feel better once you get going again. Mary also dipped her bandanna in to put across here knees to cool them down as well.We soon passed a spot on the trail where you hike between the fast moving river on one side and a rock face on the other. It's a short section of trail that is only about 3 to 4 feet wide and a little intimidating, but we made it without incident. Shortly after, Mary decided to change from her long sleeve into her short sleeve. Thinking all the hikers were ahead of us, she stopped in the trail. Mid change a male hiker came around the corner saying, Whoa, I'll wait back here... Mary gave him the it's ok now, and he came up to tell us the story of him trying to change along the trail. He actually let an older woman know he was going up around the bend to change, hoping she would wait and give him time. He said he got around the corner and she hiked up fast to catch him changing. He said "I don't know if she thought it was going to be a Chip and Dale show or what!"Next we started the long, and I mean long, climb from the river up to Pond Mountain on a seemingly endless series of switchbacks. By the time we made it to the top Mary was exhausted and it was getting late. I suggested that maybe we should just camp up top at one of the many sites. She told me she was heading for the hostel 3 miles away. I glanced at my watch thinking that it might be dark when we made it and this might not be a good idea. Soon she put her music on and was off again moving so fast I could hardly keep up on the downhills. We made it down in good time with plenty of light. We were both tired and could hardly make it up the final climb (driveway) to the hostel, but when we did we were greeted by the 3 Amigos, Jo and Two, Katherine & Taylor, Sandals & Ninja Snail along with several others. They had two bunks left, which we took. Had a nice shower in their bucket shower and cooked dinner inside. The bunkhouse was full, but the bunks were comfortable and we were happy to have a few creature comforts after a long, tough day. The bunks each had curtains with separate lights. We were both on top bunks, and Mary was nervous about having to get back down in the middle of the night, but she didn't need to get down until morning, at which time I helped get her down safely...