Date: 2004-04-26
From: Deer Park Mountain Shelter

To: Hot Springs, NC
Miles today: 3.2
Weather: moderate rain

Descent into a Time Warp3.2 miles in 1.5 hoursWe tented on a soft bed of pine needles behind the shelter, which was a cramped dingy affair. The evening was beautiful, but I awoke to the patter of rain on the canvas. I knew I was doomed to get soaked in my minimal tarp cover, but the sound was so comforting and relaxing I fell into my best sleep yet on the trail.Sure enough, come morning, everything inside was a sodden mess, myself included. Oh well, Hot Springs was only a short walk away and off we went.Different locale, different scenery. We passed blueberry bushes, lilies-of-the-valley, and one pink ladyslipper! At these lower heights, poison ivy has become a frequent trailside companion.We were itching to get to Hot Springs, which is known as a hiker-friendly little place. We in fact entered somethig of a time warp. Elmer's Sunnyside Inn where we checked in, is a grand Victorian mansion, preserved as if it were still the late 1800's. High ceilings, wainscoating, dark woodwork, velvet draperies, old busts and murky prints and photos, old carpeting in every room including Raven's and my shared bedroom, totally authentic yet well-used by hikers and management alike.On the fridge are many bumper stickers with such messages as: 1) Support Faith-Based Missile Defense Systems.2)Practice Compassionate Impeachment.3) A Rind is a Terrible Thing to Waste; Compost! 4)Deforestation is the Doorway to Hell.5) Do Something Good for the Environment: Plant Bush Back in Texas. And6), as you might guess, "No Rain, No Pain, No Maine! Elmer, the owner and host, bills himself as a "recovered academic" who formerly taught eastern religion.The place also hosts retreats for meditation and Zen studies. Raven practices Zen and Buddhist meditation, and explained the meaning of the Zen prints on the wall. The cuisine is gourmet vegetarian, prepared by Elmer.The town itself is tiny and scruffy, a few blocks strung out along a main street (also the trail!), with a hardware store out of the forties, and minimal services such as laundromat and market, but with an excellent outfitter for hikers.Downtown Hot SpringsAt the far end of town is the original hot springs, a mineral water source that pops out of a fissure at 108 degrees. No stink, just a hearty blend of salts. The place is totally unlike a fancy spa like Saratoga Springs.I booked an hour session by myself in one of the outdoor private bathing areas. It was a hot tub on an elevated wood platform, surrounded on three sides by a wood fence, but open on the fourth side to look out onto a stream and some woods. Delight! I stretched muscles that hadn't yielded in weeks, and rubbed those sore feet. After dinner I packed for tomorrow. We'll be out for five or six days, so will be carrying a big heavy load of provisions.Gloria mailed me a big new tarp (Henry Shires Squall 2 Tarp Tent) which should keep me much dryer. Thanks so much! I ran sealer along the seams tonight. Hope it's dried by tomorrow.Life on the trail is great. It's even better when you consider the contrasts in the communities we hike down into. Wacky, tacky Gatlinburg, Fontana Resort, lost in the 60's, the beer/moonshine/steak orgy at Brown Gap, the old-timey flavor of Hot Springs...what next? All the more reason to keep hiking!Now-or-Never