Date: 2009-12-18
To: Standing Bear Farm to Hot Springs
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: light rain

This is another 33 miles section, but unlike the Gatlinburg to Standing Bear section, I do it over three days ¢ in part to give myself a break after the challenges of the Smokey¢s. I lead out with a relatively short 7 miles hike to Ground Hog Creek campsite. It¢s mostly up, with 3000 feet of elevation gain in the first six miles. Still, the treadway is well maintained and the trail relatively gentle, with a number of switchbacks. The Campsite has a stream running through it that provides both a convenient water source and a gurgling sound that will lull you to sleep at night. Unfortunately, last year when I arrived, it had been snowing for most of the day and the shelter was already jam-packed with section hikers who had taken the day off. I had no problem setting up my tent, after stomping down a patch of snow, but when I retired for the night I discovered that my Big Agnes sleep pad had sprung a leak! Sleeping directly on snow will suck the warmth out of you faster than anything but water itself. I managed to jury-rig enough insulation between me and the ground to survive the night, but it wasn¢t all that comfortable. On day two my destination is Walnut Mountain Shelter, a distance of about 13 miles. Along the way you¢ll find one of the most beautiful ¢balds¢ of the southern AT, a place called Max Patch. It provides the most wonderful 360 degree vistas, and often provides some ¢interesting¢ weather as well. High winds can make photo ops a bit challenging, and last year we encountered an impressive snow drift on the way up to the top. (Another of those ¢really feeling alive¢ days¢¦) At one point, after following the ¢post holes¢ of a lighter climber who had preceded me ¢ and was long since gone ¢ my right leg sank in up to my hip. ¢Hmmm,¢ I thought to myself, ¢I could be here until this thing melts in the spring¢¦¢. And, of course, there¢s never someone around with a camera when you need them. Would have made a great photo shot ¢ one of those that just cries out for a ¢provide the best caption ¢ win a prize¢ contests. Oh well. I remember it. When I got to Hot Springs, every hiker in town had stories to tell, mostly involving that snow drift at Max Patch. Day three is a 13 hike day into Hot Springs. You should be able to make pretty decent time on this section, as the trail is good and there is a lot of downhill involved. That is a good thing, because you don¢t want to be late checking in at Elmer¢s hostel. You have to register for dinner by 3 pm, providing there is space for you to stay with him. It¢s a vegetarian meal, but I can live with that ¢ every once in a while. In fact, it¢s really very good, and the company around the table is always good.The hostel itself is an older home, the earliest sections of which were built just after the civil war. It's an interesting place, filled with antiques, and featuring a music room for after-dinner entertainment. If you don¢t arrive in time, there¢s a motel within shouting distance, a diner just across the street, and a pub a few blocks further into town. There is also a good outfitters, and ¢ most importantly ¢ the hot springs themselves. Hot tubs can be rented right along the river. It¢s a good trail town. One where you could take a zero day if you were so inclined. Last year I was definitely so inclined. Next stop: Erwin Tennesseep.s. We're due for snow here in the Washington, D.C. area this weekend -- possibly up to a foot. I was thinking about doing a conditioning hike, but may just use the 'ol treadmill in the basement instead.