Date: 2005-09-13
From: Zealand Falls Hut

To: Crawford Notch
Miles today: 7.3
Weather: fog

Highland Lodge   Room 310   I took a trip outside last night in the forlorn hope that I might see the Northern Lights. No luck! I was however, once again, struck by how bright and numerous the stars are. There realy is a Milky Way up there ¢ you just cant see all of this splendor in the light polluted cities.   Three SOBO thru-hikers stayed at the hut last night. Painfully Slow and a couple hiking together, Double Healer and Rocky. They told of horrible troubles on the climb of Wildcat E Mountain, and Rocky went so far as to say that it was so dangerous that the trail should be rerouted to avoid it altogether! An elderly hiking couple, who were staying at the hut and who had hiked extensively in the White Mountains and NH, although agreeing that it was a difficult climb, privately told me that it was certainly doable, if taken slow and easy. Rocky SOBO also had to climb down, much more difficult than the NOBO ascent.   We were again serenaded with guitar music for our morning wake up call, apparently another AMC hut tradition, we have had it in almost all of the huts that I stayed in so far. I was once again underway by 8:00AM on a misty, but warm and muggy morning.   The trail descends down from the hut, and at the junction of Ethan Pond Trail, I said goodbye to the older hiking couple, who were taking the A.Z. Trail to the shuttle to Crawford Notch. The Ethan Pond Trail runs along the base of Whitewall Mountain on an old railroad bed, so it is flat and easy, although occasionally interrupted by small rockslides brought about by the ephemeral streams. There is one section of several hundred yards where the trail goes straight through a massive rock scree extending from the top of the cliff wall of Whitewall Mountain down into the valley below. Impressive indeed!   Along this section I met with Bimodal thru-hiking SOBO, who knew Red Eft, and who had heard of Painfully Slow, who he hoped to catch up with. The trail remains as flat as a pancake for about 4-5 miles, and was the smoothest flattest walk I have had since the River Walk way back when!   Made excellent time because of the trail conditions and was soon at Ethan Pond Campsite where Bubble Toes and Rawhide had said that they would spend last night. On the smooth descent to the road, I met with two NOBO thru-hikers, Panorama and Aviator, who passed me on by.   I was at the road junction shortly after noon and, as told by Painfully Slow, there was indeed a message for me, pinned to the Hiker Notice Board. It was from Tumblina, dated 9/3, who had been ¢just passing through¢ wishing me well. How extraordinary kind and thoughtful some people are, and how lasting some trail friendships become. Cruise Control had added his own postscript to her message with encouragement to ¢keep going¢   Since I had arrived so early at the road I decided to try my luck at hitching a ride, rather than wait for the 2:30PM shuttle bus to the Highland Center at Crawford Notch. Vehicle #14 stopped and drove me all the way to the front door. The driver plans to climb all of the 48 mountains higher than 4,000 feet in NH, and was planning on climbing the last one tomorrow. He also agreed that Wildcat E, although steep and difficult, is defiantly doable if taken easy and slow, especially from the south.   The Highland Center Lodge is more like a hotel than a hut. It is a very modern, large, three story building. Electrical outlets in my room on the third floor allow me to recharge my cell and a good signal meant a long conversation with KT.   Today was a very pleasant and easy days hike with a smooth trail and a nice ride to the Lodge. I was indeed fortunate.   I am deriving great satisfaction now from very small things. This morning at Zealand Hut I was suddenly struck by the symmetry of my fleece jacket, hat and hiking poles lit up by the morning sunlight streaming through the window. Again as I was waiting for breakfast, my early morning cup of steaming coffee, sending misty swirls of heat into the cool morning air, sitting on the table in front of the window, with my maps and trail guides, looked better than any still life painting. Suddenly the ordinary moment becomes just perfect and memorable.Thought for today ¢    Find the perfection in the small things of life.