Date: 2011-05-04
From: Hughes Gap

To: Carver's Gap
Miles today: 4.8

I actually stayed pretty dry last night, in spite of the fact that it rained most of the night, and pretty hard at times. At one point, it sounded as though the rain had turned to snow, but no snow was on the ground when I woke up this morning. The temp was cold, but I didn't want to know what it was while I was still in my warm bag and dry tent or I might not get out!A cold stiff wind was blowing, but it was only partly cloudy and no rain on the horizon, that I could see from my tent at least. So, I heated water and ate breakfast from inside my bag in the tent, then packed up everything I could before getting out of my warm cacoon. Finally the time came to put on my still wet shorts and T-shirt and rain gear and get out into the cold morning. It was definitely cold, and my hands were soon numb from packing my wet tent. But I kept telling myself that in a half hour or so I'd be warm again due to the heat generated by the stout climb up Roan Mt that began across the road from my campsite.Once on the trail and part way up the steep and continuous climb, I stopped and looked at my thermometer; 33°. No wonder I wasn't warming up as fast as I expected! Of course the thick fog that had settled over the trail and was swirling all around didn't help much either.About half way up to the Ash Gap campsite I ran into the first fresh snow that had fallen overnight. Not far uphill I began seeing more fresh snow and a bit of ice on roots and rocks. At the Ash Gap campsite there was a decent covering of new snow, so I was very glad I had decided against trying to make it here last night.It was a 2,150 ft climb up from my campsite at Hughes Gap to the top of Roan Mt, but the stiff wind, thick fog and thin layer of ice coating everything made it hard to stop long enough to enjoy the scenery or the mountain's famous rhododendron gardens. As planned, I took the short side trail up to the Roan High Knob Shelter; the highest shelter on the AT. I had missed it in '07. Just before the shelter I met a couple coming down the trail. Turns out they live in Shelburne, VT and we know quite a few folks in common! I didn't stay long at the shelter due to the cold and blowing fog, just a quick photo and on down the trail to stay warm.At the road crossing at Carver's Gap the wind was getting stronger and there were only brief breaks in the fog and clouds. Not wanting to have to rush through this stretch of Balds in a cold blowing fog, I decided to hitch into the town of Roan Mt, TN and stay the night in hopes of a better hiking day tomorrow.Buddy and Shirley Caldwell were there admiring the fresh rime ice hanging on every tree and shrub, and handing out snacks to bedragled hikers. After an hour or so of conversation I hopped in with them and we headed on down the mountain towards town. They had a camper parked at the nearby state park and knew there were cabins for rent too. So, I spent much of the rest of the afternoon with them, seeing the sights of the county roads, lunching at Bob's Dairyland Grill, browsing in the State Park visitor center, and finally being deposited at the doorstep of the Roan Mt Bed & Breakfast. Buddy and Shirley were an interesting couple whose company I enjoyed and whose time I greatly appreciated.Ann and Steve, proprietors of the B & B, were very friendly and took me into town later in the evening for wood fired pizza at a local bakery. I was their only guest. When we got back from town I was no longer their only guest. Buffalo Bobby and Trolley Stop had just shown up! Another great evening visiting with these 2 great guys. All the while I had pulled my pack completely apart to dry everything out and done a load of laundry. Nothing like warm dry clothes and a hot shower to make a hiker feel almost human again! I also managed to reach Brenda on her cell and got caught up on a number of things happening at home. I certainly miss my 3 girls!Tomorrow I'll be up early and off, I hope, to Carver's Gap again for some cold but scenic southern Bald ridge walking.