Date: 2004-06-02
From: Just beyond PA 325 at Clarks Valley

To: Day 69: PA 72 at Swatara Gap, PA
Miles today: 17.0

On AT Day 69, I got up at 4:00 a.m. and found that it was still raining. Since I was in no rush to get wet again, I took my time getting ready (including a few naps) in the tent, before I ventured outside to boil water for breakfast. By the time I had eaten and everything was packed the light rain had stopped, but I decided to start my hike in my Gore-Tex jacket and pants anyway. Bad idea since it was still relatively warm (60¢s) and the day¢s hike began with a 1100-foot climb up the aptly named Stony Mountain, so I quickly became overheated and was forced to take off my rain gear. I knew the rain would return later in the day, but for now I was back to my quick drying running shorts and short-sleeved shirt. With all of the rain, I was not at all surprised that the plateau portions of first Stony and then Sharp Mountain were often interspersed with muddy quagmires that I had to somehow cross ¢ hopefully without getting my last pair of dry socks soaked in the process, I succeeded.About halfway across the second of these plateaus I stopped briefly at the ruins of the Yellow Springs Village where I signed the AT register. Descending from Sharp Mountain I came to the Rausch Creek and the trail leading to the Rausch Gap Shelter. I did not hike the 0.3-miles Blue Blazed trail to the shelter, but instead hiked 20 yards or so to the creek¢s edge where I stopped and ate my lunch in the sunshine ¢ it didn¢t last long, but it was nice. Shortly after leaving my lunch site I came to the Rausch Gap itself where there used to be a very small (1000 people maximum) coal mining town, long since gone, and the present site of an unusual water treatment system where the creek is diverted through a limestone deposit before returning to its free flow and in doing so making it better suited for fish and human use downstream. A few minutes later I came across another new-to-me NOBO through hiker, Mockingbird, a 20¢s something male who was taking a lunch break. For some strange reason he knew who I was, weird, maybe it¢s my floppy hat or my ever-lengthening white beard.After a 500-foot climb up Second Mountain I got my biggest surprise for day, as there on the trail was a five-foot long rattlesnake! As usual, my head was down as I was churning along and I nearly overtook the snake that was also cruising down the trail. Seeing the snake, I froze in my tracks and immediately got out my camera. I crept along behind the snake and took a couple of pictures, but by the time I had my second it sensed my presence (or more likely the flash from my camera) and turned around, coiled up and rattled its tail. Naturally this got my attention so I stopped but I also got two more great pictures. I then tossed a few small sticks toward the snake that took the hint and slithered away. I waited until the snake was about four feet off the trail before I tried to pass, and even though I was running the snake whirled around and gave me quite a scare. Next time, I¢ll wait a little longer before sneaking past one of these impressive vipers.Shortly thereafter, Mockingbird sped past me as we descended toward Swatara State Park. I stopped him long enough to warn him that we were obviously in rattlesnake country. Just before entering the state park, I had to deal with a brief rain shower and just as I was finishing changing back out of my rain gear I met another SOBO AT through hiker. This 50¢s something bearded male, trail name Ghost, began his hike in MA and was memorable since he was taking the names and photographs of all the NOBO AT through hikers he met along the way. We had a brief chat and he confirmed that I was indeed near to my pick-up site at Swatara Gap.When I was descending the last 15 feet or so to PA 72, I was amazed to see that my wife was driving by ¢ I was amazed not only by the great timing, but also by the fact that she passed by the spot where she needed to pick me up. I was confident that she would figure this out eventually so I put down my pack and went down to the Swatara Creek to investigate and take pictures of the beautiful Waterville iron bridge, built in 1890, and moved to this location in 1987 to serve as a means for AT and other hikers and bicyclists (a Rails-to-Trail path joins the AT at this bridge) to cross the creek.My wife returned in a few minutes and she joined me admiring the bridge before we drove the hour or so needed to get to our new RV campsite at Hickory Run State Park, near Whitehaven, PA. The rain returned as we drove, so we decided to forgo a dinner in town in favor of a pleasant and private dinner in our trailer ¢ good choice since I was anxious to show her the pictures of the rattlesnake¢¦ The plan now is to take the next day off to complete my trail journal, do laundry, and restock my pack before returning to the AT again. This new and shorter cycle of hikes is clearly much more pleasant for all concerned.