Date: 2018-05-25
From: Thornton Gap - Luray, VA

To: Compton Gap - Haymarket, VA
Miles today: 22.1
Weather: overcast clouds

With our son and his wife coming to town today, my goal was to get as much of the SNP completed as I could, making things logistically easier for when we return to the trail with our kids. If I had enough time, I was hoping to make it 28 miles to VA 522. This would put us completely out of the SNP with very easy access. Since we had already hiked the entire A.T. (and 95% of the other trails) in the Northern District many times over, Which Way was meeting the kids in Luray and taking them on a guided tour of Luray Caverns while I beat feet. A late start, warm day, and bear encounters hindered my progress. Thornton Gap marked the dividing line between the SNP Central and Northern Districts. So when Allison returned me to the trail at 8:00 and I crossed the highway, I was now hiking in the Northern District. I was able to cover six miles in the first two hours. By my math, if I could keep that pace, I should be able to make it to VA 522 by 6:00 p.m. The immediate goal was to get to the Elkwallow Wayside for a burger and shake (because we all know that that is excellent hiker fuel). The Wayside is located a tenth of of a mile off the A.T. about 8.5 miles from Thornton Gap. About a mile before I hit the side trail I crossed a small stream. A second after I crossed the stream I heard a rock overturn just below the trail. Curious, I turned back a few steps to peer down the gully in the direction of the noise. No more than 20 yards below me was a decent size bear. I figured it was turning over rocks in the stream looking for food. I stood still and the bear looked up my way, sticking its brown nose in the air to catch a whiff. The vegetation was pretty thick, the lighting was terrible and she was behind a fallen tree. I raised my I-phone to get a pic anyway, hoping she would raise up a little for a better shot. Just as I took the first picture, two very small (terrier-sized) cubs darted in front of her. Oh snap! I hadn¢t noticed them before in the thick vegetation. I figured I should move on. As I walked slowly up the trail, I could see that they were moving parallel below me. About 50 yards later I came to another trail running perpendicular to the AT. I waited there for a minute hoping the sow and her cubs would cross that trail below me for the perfect pic. Being impatient, I slid down the side trail a bit. Oops, I looked over and saw mama bear was pretty close and she was definitely watching me. I decided it was time to go before she got irritated by my presence. As I approached the side trail to Elkwallow, two adults with their energetic grandsons were headed my way. When I warned them of the bear and her cubs, they told me that there was a year-old cub just up the side trail. I continued cautiously in that direction and sure enough, there was a cute little bear foraging just 10 yards off the trail. But, where was mama?!?! I backed up a little and started talking to the bear. ¢Where is your mama?¢ The little fellow just looked at me without a care. I¢m glad he was cool with the situation, because I sure was feeling uneasy. Was I about to be pummeled from behind by an angry sow? I nervously took a pic (perhaps my last one) as I backed slowly away. About that time, three other hikers walking on the A.T. (running diagonally away from the side trail I was on) spooked the cub and it darted across the path directly in front of me. Wow!100 yards later, the path led to the Wayside. It was still early and uncrowded, so I had my burger and shake in no time. I also grabbed a Gatorade for the trail and refilled my water bladder. Oh, and I bought a Double Shot Espresso to stash away in my pack for a late day energy boost. 19 was already there demolishing a burger of his own, so I joined him. He was the only NOBO I would see all day. There was another man at the picnic table with us who was a bit of a regular. He told me that the cub I had just seen was an orphan that actually made it through the winter on his own. By the time I was back on the trail, the day had heated up considerably. I pressed on with a full belly and in a full sweat at a pace that was not quite as fast as the morning clip. Passing by side trails like Neighbor Mountain, Jeremy¢s Run, Thornton River, Piney Branch, and the Tuscarora brought back memories of numerous day hikes and shakedown backpacking trips Which Way and I had done in this area over the past three years. It really was a great training ground. I caught up with 19 crossing over North Marshall Mountain. Some great views to the west and north from here. It was around 2:30 now and I had enough cell signal here to send Which Way a status text. ¢ETA VA 522 6:30...ETA Compton Gap 4:45.¢ Compton Gap (22 miles north of Thornton Gap) would be the last pick-up point inside the SNP. I didn¢t want them to have to hang around waiting for me, so I left the rendezvous point up to her. Obviously I was ready to see the kids, so I was hoping she would decide on Compton Gap. She did. I had crested Compton Peak and was about 5-minutes from the parking area below, when I saw my son walking up the trail in my direction. His wife was right behind him and came running up to meet me. They gave their sweaty dad a big hug and we walked back down to the gap, arriving at 4:45 on the nose.The first stop was the Mountain Home Cabin Hostel, located just off the trail on VA 522. I took a quick shower and made arrangements with Scott, the co-proprietor, to stay there Sunday night. Scott and his wife Lisa have a great reputation for taking care of hikers. The next stop was an Indian Restaurant in nearby Gainesville. The final stop for the night was at the home of some close friends, the Huddlestons that live Haymarket. They are graciously turning their house into a hiker hostel for the weekend.Life is soooooooo GOOD!Elevation Data:Ascent - 4,710Descent - 4,510Grade - 7.9Weather:Day - 85 / Sun Night - 67 / Partly CloudyOver the Horizon: Harpers Ferry