Date: 2010-07-22
From: Winturri Shelter

To: Norwich
Miles today: 17.0

We were packed into the shelter like little sardines in a can last night. Everyone put their sleeping pad down on the wooden floor but there wasn't any room in between each mat. Still (and I'm surprised I'm saying this as I dislike crowded shelters), it was cozy. At about 7pm, the heavens opened and torrential rain started. I don't think I've ever seen so much rain. It didn't go on for too long, maybe an hour or two but it whipped but the mud on the ground and at one stage, hail was falling. Of course the customary thunder and lightining made things exciting too. I had debated setting up my tent last night but I'm not sure it would have withstood the pounding. Such rain sure makes you appreciate a simple tin roof. I heard later that a place very close to me was struck by a tornado, so I think I got the edge of it.I was first out of camp at 630am. Staying in a shelter speeds up the morning's departure as there's no tent to take down. One of the people who stayed here last night (in a tent) was Mother Goose. She apparently was the first lady to yo-yo the AT. A yo-yo is when you hike in one direction all the way from Georgia to Maine, then you turn around and hike all the way back. No way could I do that! She has hiked the AT about 5 times I think and has more than 30,000 miles under her belt. No wonder she tented. She must be used to it!We passed through different terrain today which was a welcome change. Usually you are surrounded by big trees then under the trees are green bushes and shrubs. So honestly, you don't see much apart from your immediate surroundings. Here, there are tall alpine pine trees which have seemingly endless trunk without branches until the very top with little pine needles about 30 metres up. Under the trees, there are no other types of vegetation. I love being able to look around a bit more. There were also a number of good vistas. I have been seeing a new type of animal dropping on the ground. They look like little brown spheres, like a Malteser chocolate. I have a feeling perhaps they are moose droppings as it's the first time I've seen them on the trail and we are arriving in moose territory. My hike will not be complete without spotting a moose. I had another day of eating not much more than bars...getting sick of them! At a shelter break, I came across the best privy. It has screens from chest level, so when you are sitting on the privy, you get 360 degree views. As you know, all shelters have registers (little notebooks) in which you write your thoughts or interesting information. My entries mostly involve food. Surprise suprise! This privy even had a register to sign!At the shelter I spoke to Trail Mix, a young man who has been doing a Bill Bryson skipping sections thru hike. He plans to summit on 20 August as do I. I suppose we'll see more of each other. He's a good sort. I decided to stay in Norwich overnight, at the last town on the trail in Vermont. That meant a 24 mile day. I realised in the afternoon that it would be very tough to finish. I don't know what's happening but I just can't do the miles. Luckily I was able to get a taxi (reasonably priced) from the trail in West Hartford, to Norwich. I checked into the most expensive hotel I've been to on the trail, but upon entering the room, I suppose it was worth it. Huge white, clean for once bed and lovely decorations. The house was built by Vermont's first millionaire and used to sell bootleg liquor during the Prohibition. I went to the attached pub for dinner. Everyone was clamouring to sit outside in the garden. There was a waiting list 5 tables long. You couldn't pay me to sit outside! I love being indoors after the trail and its bugs! I had a glass of wine with dinner and then decided I wanted a half bottle to drink in my room. I asked the waiter whether I could buy a half bottle to take upstairs. He said "umm...". I said "well, according to Vermont law, you are allowed to sell me a bottle with dinner and then I can take the rest away as long as you recork the bottle". He seemed surprised that I knew that and said "ok sure!". Hihi it's helps to be a lawyer sometimes!! I had read that law somewhere earlier in Vermont so it came in handy. After the last few hard days, it was nice to relax with some vino!New shoes tomorrow which is good because even my insoles are cracking. PS Young Americans need to stop using the words "like" and "awesome". It really spoils their speech.