Date: 2017-06-29
From: Limestone Spring Shelter 

To: Glen Brook Shelter
Miles today: 17.1
Weather: overcast clouds

Who needs an alarm clock when there is an abundance of woodpeckers and songbirds about?  At 5:45 a.m., the birds made sure I was fully awake; two hours later, I was retracing last night's steps into the shelter, this time up the steep rocky steps, but at least in daylight.  Again, the weather was accommodating. These days I find it hard to pass by a town that is anywhere near the trail.  Salisbury, CT, is one such town, a quaint, well-to-do town, with a fine-looking town hall and far more eating opportunities than Falls Village.  It was still early morn when I took a 0.8 mile detour to have coffee and pastries at the Country Bistro.  To mask my hiker funk while in the shop, I put my raincoat over my sweaty shirt -- it had been 3 days since my last shower and laundry.  I am very self-conscious about my not-so-pleasant odor when I go to public places, so I picked a table in the corner of the diner, far from the other patrons, and close to an electric socket for charging my phone.  Golden oldies played over the sound system.  With close attention I could hear the lyrics "Don't let the sun go down on me."  Three cups of coffee, two pastries, a full phone recharge, and two hours later, I was headed back to the trail, truly a sated hiker.  Two milestones came today: 1) I passed the 1500 mile mark; and 2) I entered Massachusetts, my home state, the 10th state of this odyssey.  Both facts boggle my mind.  However, it was not easy accomplishing these milestones today.  For one, Connecticut finished with a bang.  Though it had turned into a somewhat subdued hike, mostly flat of late, the state required a steep ascent of Bear Mountain (I think every state has a mountain by this name) and an even steeper descent before I could leave it.  Bear Mountain is the only mountain in Connecticut on the AT above 2000', coming in at 2316'.  Atop Bear Mountain is a rock observation tower that provides an outstanding view and an excuse for taking a long break.  Further, Massachusetts started with two significant challenges, Mt. Race at 2365' and Mt. Everett at 2602'.  Now while the mountains of the South dwarf these mountains, it has been quite some time since I've been above 2000'.  I hate to say it, but I may have become a little soft, pampered by the lower elevations of Maryland, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, and lastly Connecticut.  Massachusetts has come at the right time to whip me back into shape for the greater challenges and higher elevations of Vermont, New Hampshire, and, ultimately, Maine.The climb of Mt. Race was a rocky one, long, relentless.  The trail skirted ledges with sheer drop offs that gave outstanding vistas but also vertigo.  I stood as far away from the edge as the trail would allow.  Admittedly, I felt a sense of relief when the white blazes led me away from the cliff edge back among the trees.  Mt. Everett was also rocky, but not as troublesome to descend.  Coming at the end of my hiking day, these mountains took what energy I had left in me.  My spirits lifted, though, when I reached Glen Brook Shelter and found Shop Teacher.  He and I are heading to Westborough, MA, tomorrow for some much needed rest.