Date: 2014-08-09
From: Pinkham Notch

To: Carter Notch hut
Miles today: 6.1
Weather: light rain

August 9--Pinkham Notch to Carter Notch HutA full moon rises over Carter Dome as I settle in to my bunk at Carter Notch Hut. A light breeze softly whispers through the trees. All is well tonight. As I drove to the trailhead this morning, I sipped my coffee and watched the cloak of night lift to reveal shades of pink and amber and blue in the dawn of a new day. The beauty of the morning calmed my worries of the day's hike. Another demon lay before me--the Wildcats! I remembered the climb as a long and tough hike. When I did it as a section hike years ago, I struggled up the Wildcats then finished the drop into Carter Notch in a zombie like state of exhaustion. How could six miles take so much out of me? I would soon find out. The hike began with a nice walk around Lost Pond. I was surprised to see several thru hikers emerging from the woods until I noticed the number of wonderful stealth sites next to the pond. As I started to climb, I met a southbound hiker who had spent the night at the top of one of the Wildcats. He said the observation deck had plenty of space for a tent and he had had a glorious night under the stars. I continued climbing without a break in the steepness. Several times it was just the rocks, my pack and me. I loved finding the cracks in the rocks to pull myself up and enjoyed the climbs. However, I did have a few adrenaline-rush moments where a fall could have meant a drop of unthinkable distance over sharp rocks. Very scary. I was happy to discover that I was able to climb again in spite of my injured tailbone. Although I was slower and more cautious, I did not experience the searing pain that plagued me up Madison. I could climb again. And I was having fun. The climbing was slow, and I finally reached Wildcat D (the peak with the gondola) after 5 hours of rigorous climbing. Three miles in five hours. I was certainly living up to my name, Slow n Steady. After climbing in silence, I was surprised to see huge crowds at the gondola. Dogs wandered freely while some were leashed and tightly held by their owners. A large digital clock read 3:17:09 and ticked away. Suddenly, the crowd began cheering wildly. A runner appeared and stumbled past the clock. Then I noticed a table with drinks and watermelon annnnnnd-- a trash can! I pulled out my wads of protein bar wrappers and tossed them in the can. I felt lighter already. After spending enough time in the carnival like atmosphere, I shouldered my pack and began to climb again. A sign announced that I only had three more miles to hike to get to the hut. I would have been thrilled but I knew that the first three miles took me five hours. But this terrain was different. At times, the rocks cleared, and the trail became a meandering pathway. And then, just as quickly, the rocks would reappear and the steep climbs would tax my weary legs. I reached a junction and saw a viewpoint but continued on. Common sense took over, and I realized that I badly needed a break. So I turned around and went back to the viewpoint. At the viewpoint, I hung over the smooth, cool rocks, stretching out my spine. Below the cliff, I could see the pond and the hut. It looked like a steep downhill and I shuddered at the thought of my tired legs trying to negotiate a steep descent. Two women approached the viewpoint. One wore a shirt with a large 48 drawn on the entire front of the shirt. She explained that this peak was the last of the New England 4000 footers for her completion of all 48 peaks. We hooted and hollered and I congratulated her and took pictures. And then I left. The hike down was a pleasant surprise for rocks had been placed as steps down most of the mile long trail to the hut. The break had refreshed me so the last mile was just a nice walk in the woods. As I approached the hut, I could hear a cacophony of voices. It sounded like a party. I worried that I may not be able to find a work for stay or a bunk. When I reached the hut, I wove through a large crowd of animated and chattering hikers. Turns out it was the 100th birthday of Carter Hut. Fun, but that could mean I would not be able to stay at the hut. I went in and was greeted by Abby, a sweet-faced cheerful young girl who was part of the croo. She explained that they would not have any work for stay tonight but that she did have some bunks available. Phew! It was expensive but worth it. Dinner tonight was a turkey dinner! And it was good--really good!As I finish my journal, one of my bunk mates sings a ballad while he makes up his bed. Darkness has fallen and I am ready for a great night's sleep. Life is good.