Date: 2008-04-03
From: Double Spring Gap shelter 

To: Newfound Gap -->Gatlinberg, TN
Miles today: 10.8
Weather: light rain

Big news: 204 miles, we are in Tennessee, and have 9.4% of the AT done!   I was climbing up the narrow trail that leads to Newfound Gap, emerging onto the foggy roadside as if out of a parallel universe. Cars and trucks barreled by. I could make out my sister standing across the roadway, apparently talking with a man, near his SUV. I shuffled across and met up with her, when she said brightly, "Marsh, this is Frank!" V8 had climbed up to the Gap moments before me, and was immediately asked by this pleasant gentleman if she needed a ride to town. Mist and a cold wind was slashing around as we shook hands, Bananas arrived and the three of us were invited into the back seat, packs and poles stowed in the boot. Christina, Frank's wife, and their personable daughter, Amber, ferried us down the many turns to Gatlinburg. I loved this family's warmth and their interest in long distance hiking. They were looking forward to a 4 day trip in the mountains soon, and I bet a thru hike is on their horizons someday, as well. They left us off at the Grand Prix motel, a hiker friendly place where we saw several of the usual suspects: Bearpaw, Rambo, No Eyed Deer, and others.   Last night we tucked into one of the older stone shelters: it featured a 6' deep sleeping platform, dirt floor, no benches or tables or extensions on the platforms for sitting. No ladder to the loft, and the piece du resistance, a chain link fence with door, across the front. The only place to hang gear was in your pack on the chain link fencing. I've grown used to the shelter routine now, but its tough to get along without any place to put one's things.   Today's hike was a long one. We got up at 6:30, and were on the trail by 7:30 a.m. to climb up to Clingman's Dome, 6600 feet,[and the highest point on the whole AT! -Ed.] and on another 7 miles to Newfound Gap. Mist and drizzle were blowing sideways as we approached the observation tower. Not quite 10 a.m., there were no sight seers yet. Our next leg was to the turn off to Mt. Collins shelter, during which the temperature seemed to be dropping. Bits of hail clattered down briefly as we were stopping for a lunch break. It must have been in the low 40's because I broke a fork tine when scooping some butter out if its container. Our hands were freezing when our gloves were off.    Huge hemlocks had fallen near the trail on the way to Newfound Gap, and I passed beside enormous vertical root systems that formed walls on the trail. Thanks to the maintainers who have had to work with chainsaws and axes, clearing the paths of blow downs. The effects of the storm tossed trees was bizarre and other worldly.    Now, for a brief rant. I am very glad to have shelters in the Smokies, but am alarmed at the lack of funding going to support hiker access to our parks. Apparently, the money allocated to national parks is dwindling by the year. Its noticeable when camping facilities for hikers are so very rustic. There is also the situation with outhouses. The park writes in their literature that all hikers should use the woods to answer nature's call. They should do this with a hand spade, digging a hole 6" deep, and burying the contents soundly. The park is distressed, however, that so many people have failed to do this simple thing, leaving bits of TP and sometimes human waste lying about.    Out of frustration, perhaps, some volunteer organizations have conducted an experiment with composting privies at selected sites. Woman hikers in particular, who have specific needs for privacy, appreciate these structures a great deal. Why they are not a standard part of any camping area is totally beyond me.    Most of the hiker amenities are maintained by volunteers, I have heard, which also amazes me. My tax dollar can't go towards making back country travel more inviting and sanitary for all citizens?   Enough for now. Thanks for reading. Support your local trails and hiking clubs!Marcia JamrogAuntie Mame------------------------------Tell your friend about PocketMail and let the savings start rolling in!