Date: 2021-06-25
From: Bald Mtn Pond Lean-to (mile 132.4)

To: Caratunk (mile 151.2)
Miles today: 21.9
Weather: overcast clouds

Despite the sublime full moon last night, Bald Mountain Pond was shallow and debris-filled, not an attractive swim spot yesterday or this morning. I would just have to hike until I found something better.Arriving late to the shelter last night was a guy I'd not met before named Pancho. He had appeared behind me as I was hustling to get in last night and I thought surely he was moving faster and would pass me soon. But he fell back as we hit a hill and he arrived a half hour after me to the shelter. He later told me he had been taking a break when he saw me go by and wanted to see what I was made of. He wasn't happy that I outpaced him, however unintentionally. From Moline Illinois, he yoyo-ed the AT in 2019 (hiked north then south), and last year hiked 1000 miles on the CDT. This year he's repeating the AT and will, as he puts it, finish his Triple Crown in mileage if not in actual trails. He's a trim, muscular guy who carries a large external frame backpack with fading patches from all over the country. With him is a small fox terrier named Foxy Lady that started following him as he hiked around Kansas on the way to the CDT. He has the dog extremely well-trained and it functions as a service dog when in town. The day started with a climb up Moxie Bald. At the summit, relaxing behind a wind break, I found Smoky Bear (not "Smoky THE Bear" he pointed out). As I mentioned we met in Virginia last year both headed north. He explained that he later got injured in Pennsylvania. After recovering for a few weeks he acquired a kayak and paddled his way down the Schuylkill River, then down the Atlantic coast, eventually making his way back to the Smoky Mountains and hiking the AT south. He has a quick wit and a lot to say, some of which seems to bely his outwardly roguish character. I took a side trail to Moxie Bald's North Peak, which has a more open summit with grand 360 degree views including of the upcoming Bigelows. Previous hikers have created a spiral of rocks on one section of bedrock, maybe 50 feet in diameter. I added a rock to the end to keep it growing. Not exactly Leave No Trace, but harmless fun. The side trip added one and half bonus miles so it's rarely visited by thruhikers. The log at the summit had few entries, but all agreed it was worth the trip.Coming down Moxie Bald I met a northbound couple, Punisher and Boppit. Except they started in Key West, followed the Florida and Pinhoti trails to the AT, and have hiked over 4100 miles so far. Unfortunately they can't cross into Canada to complete the International AT and with it the Eastern Continental Trail. So instead after Katahdin they are headed to Glacier National Park to hike the CDT southbound, another 3000 miles.Boppit complained about waiting on the Kennebec Ferry. It can only take two passengers at a time, but she was stuck behind a large group of girls. Down in the valley it was warm and I was tempted to jump into a lake called Joe's Hole as the trail skirted it on a dirt road. But a hiker I didn't recognize was curled up napping on the dock, which seemed the best place to access the water. By the time I reached Pleasant Pond I was ready for a swim. Pancho beat me to it, but I waded right in from the leafy beach over the stony bottom. It looked like a private boat launch was nearby but, seeing no one about, I gave little thought to skinny-dipping. Wet shorts are no fun to hike in. Pancho and I walked up through forest towards the shelter, passing a group of about 10 boys out for a backpacking trip. Tyler and Alex already had tents set up even though it was barely 4. Tyler is now called Pre-pack. Apparently this morning he told the others he needed to pack up before his morning safety meeting.Pappy was also in the shelter, but he was ready to conquer another six miles to get to Caratunk and a soft bed tonight. So he, Pancho and I set off. Or rather Pappy got a head start and Pancho and I never caught him until we hit the highway to Caratunk.Along the way Pancho and I took a break. Pancho loves Snickers and likes to stop for a Snickers several times a day. Back at the shelter he asked if I wanted one and I said sure, but when he tarried around with his gear for too long I decided I would start moving and suggested we do it later, and he hiked out behind me. Now, as we reached the middle of a big climb he suggested stopping for that Snickers break. After an awkward minute he asked where I kept my Snickers. I started to laugh, then apologized because clearly he'd misunderstood. I don't carry Snickers. I was happy to eat one if offered, but I had none to share. Pancho had eaten his last Snickers that morning and somehow got the idea I had some. He was clearly disappointed so I hid my amusement. He fumbled in his pockets and found a few crumbs of an old Snickers which he carefully nibbled at, declaring it sufficient for the moment. At the road, Pappy and I headed to the post office which had an outside phone for hikers to call for pickup. Pancho disappeared, headed he had said for a convenience store. We were picked up by the owner's son and taken to the Sterling Inn nearby. It's a bed and breakfast popular with hikers for its cheap lodgings and the owner Eric caters to hikers with a resupply shop, rides, and a comfortable lounge. The son ran us to a restaurant up the road to grab takeout for dinner.In the lounge I found two girls Timber and Zombie and a guy Forrest, all southbound. Timber had hurt her foot or leg, I didn't get the full story, and all have been zeroing together here for several days. They've been watching DVDs pretty much continuously. I introduced these Millennials to Shakespeare in Love, but I'm not sure it resonated.