Date: 2016-08-31
From: Boots Off Hostel, Shook Branch Road

To: Black Bear Resort, Dennis Cove Road, USFS 50
Miles today: 8.5

I was still very sore and very tired in the morning. I went up to the main house for breakfast at 7:00, but visited with Jim, the owner, for quite a while. He told me about the history of the property and his plans for the hostel. So I ended up getting a much later start than planned. I was just not looking forward to the long climb up the mountain. After I packed up, I looked for Jim to say good bye but could not find him. Later, Jim walked down to the AT and said good bye as I was making my way up the steep switchbacks off the road, which I thought was very nice.The weather was great and the trail, although all up hill, was actually easy. I could tell I was starting to get my trail legs back. I did not have to stop as often to catch my breath and the pack felt more comfortable (but it was also getting close to resupply, so it was lighter). I was still pretty sore all over from carrying the extra water through the downed trees.When I was fairly close to Pond Flats - the top of the mountain, I ran into an older gentleman and his son, NOBO, on a 60 mile section hike. We stopped to chat for a while. I warned them about the bear area, the closed shelter, the long climb up to Vandeventer shelter and its water source, and all the downed trees. Under the circumstances I suggested they may want to stop for the day at Boots Off Hostel. The father looked like he could use an easy day. I texted Jim to let him know the men were coming his way.There were a series of really nice open camping areas and it was really hard to tell whether I had finally reached Pond Flats. I stepped off the AT and checked out one of the camping areas while I checked with Guthook to confirm my location. As I turned around to head back towards the AT I just about stepped on something laying right in front of me that was definitely not there before. It was a rattle snake that had been slithering right behind me while I was busy with my phone.The rattler was longer than my hiking stick and about as thick as my wrist. This time, unlike in Connecticut, I had my drawers up and my phone already out, so I snapped a few pictures. Thankfully the snake was mostly brightly colored, otherwise I may not have seen it. I checked out the head first and confirmed it was a pit viper, then looked at the tail and saw the rattles. About 1/4 of the snake, up from the rattles, was charcoal colored, like the end of the snake had been burned.The snake was already stopped when I saw it. Of course I immediately stopped in my tracks. The snake never rattled or coiled defensively, but it definitely retracted its head and checked me out for a few brief seconds, then continued on. That is absolutely as close to a rattle snake as I ever want to get - pants up or down. Fortunately in both of my encounters with rattle snakes, the snakes never apparently felt threatened and wanted absolutely nothing to do with me.The water source near the campsites was bone dry. The trail down the other side of the mountain was easy with only a few rocky patches. On one of the rocks I found a very cool looking lizard, which patiently posed for me while I took several pictures. I made good time until I hit the side trail to Hampton. The AT follows a creek, crosses 2 very nice foot bridges, and then becomes very rocky. Although not mentioned in the 2015 AWOL guide, Guthook mentioned a high water trail, which initially I did not understand. According to a sign, the turn off for the Laurel Fork Shelter is also the high water trail. Because the trail looked very steep and rocky, it was getting late in the day, and the shelter was closed because a tree fell on it, there appeared to be no point in going to the shelter. I still briefly considered going because rain was clearly coming but, under the circumstances, I was not sure I could actually take refuge from the rain in the shelter, so I decided not to bother.The AT then dipped into a very narrow beautiful rocky canyon. There was a spot where the AT went around some large boulders right next to the water, and then I understood why there was a high water trail. During high water this part of the trail would definitely be under rushing water and totally inaccessible. I ran into some day hikers headed to the falls. I stopped to let them pass as I carefully picked my way over the rocks. When the rain came, I found a pretty spot in the canyon and took a break. I do not like climbing over wet rocks in the rain. I got a little wet, but it was refreshing. The day hikers had been to the falls and were on their way back as the rain let up and I finished my break.Fortunately the rocks were not just a jumble, like in the Whites. Instead there were actually steps among the rocks. So even wet, the rocks were not so bad. Eventually I reached Laurel Falls, which are beautiful. There were more day hikers there. They had come in from the parking area south.The climb out of the canyon was a steep almost vertical rocky challenge, but again there were rock steps mixed in with the rocks. Because everything was now wet, I was really glad I was going up the rocks rather than down. At the top of the climb the AT followed an old dirt road for a while. It was a nice easy change from the jumble of rocks and I made good time. I passed 3 SOBOs who looked like they have been on the AT for a while. Perhaps they are part of the SOBO bubble. When I reached Dennis Cove Road, USFS 50, it was drizzling. Kincora Hiking Hostel was one direction and Black Bear Resort was the other direction on the paved road. I wanted to make sure I went the correct direction. After checking and re-checking the map in the AWOL guide, I decided left was the correct direction. Signs I subsequently found tacked to a tree for both locations confirmed I was right. The .4 to .5 mile road walk really was not all that bad. Along the way I found a crawfish, just walking along the edge of the pavement.Black Bear Resort is a bit rustic, but the folks who run it are very nice. For 2 nights I have a cottage all to myself, so hopefully I will get some sleep. I picked up my resupply box, along with a frozen pizza, Diet Coke, and a Klondic Bar. I will have to be very careful and work around my BG levels! Unfortunately there was no other food available nearby and there just wasn't much food available at the little store at the resort.I stripped off my wet stinky clothes, took a long hot shower, and cooked the pizza in the toaster oven. I had a TV that only plays movies - no cable. Cell phone coverage is almost non-existent, but texts sometimes go through. There is, however, a computer with wifi available. So tomorrow I will do laundry. While it dries, I will catch up my trail journals.Yesterday I became a 2,000 miler!! I am an ALDHA member (life member), but now I am an official long distance hiker. Unofficially, I am just a tough old broad in granny panties with a bum knee. Now I have to decide if I can continue with the knee pain and finish the AT, or I need my husband to come get me.The AT is calling. Should I stay or should I go??