Date: 2015-04-21
From: Hot Springs

To: Fontana Dam
Miles today: 0.0
Weather: scattered clouds

The 60 or so miles within Smoky Mountain National Park was undoubtedly the highlight of the southern portion of the AT for me, and the climbs up to and down from this 5,000-6,000' range were a sort of microcosm of the entire trail, as the elevation changes encapsulate, in a few days, the ecological diversity of the Appalachian range up the eastern part of the US.4/14 Roaring Fork Shelter, mile 256I managed 16 miles in the rain over Bluff mountain--its summit a beautiful expanse of small white flowers called simply Spring Beauties--and on to tent at this crowded shelter. Riddler and Sir Iosis caught up, but think that they're getting off for a while after the Smokies. Am water-logged and chafing, so free-balling it today.4/15 Standing Bear Hostel, mile 241I tried to wait for the clouds to break before crossing Max Patch, which Rhodie considered his favorite part of the trail south of Damascus, where I had to abandon him last fall. It never happened but it was wild and beautiful in the cold wind and rain. Snowbird Mtn had a nice tower on it, which I managed to get 3/4 of the way up before the wind freaked me out.After 15 miles, I arrived at this iconic hostel late in the day, and ended up sleeping on the porch of their private home. Sadly, its well-loved owner passed this winter due to pancreatic cancer. (I ran across Rocket, a famous staff-member here, near Hot Springs, as he was walking the trail to process Curtis' death.) I did get to meet one of his sons, a college kid into philosophy, and only hope Standing Bear stays open, as it's an essential re-supply stop before the northern entrance to the park.I drank some "shine" that a NOBO from CT carried out from Gatlinburg, and finally managed to throw some clothes in the sole, unheated, drier at the ass-crack of dawn, and was (as usual) the first one out of there. I wish I had bought more food, but plan on getting to Gatlinburg in a few days.4/16 Cosby Knob Shelter, mile 230Climbed 3,500' up from Davenport Gap and into SMNP along beautifully swollen Stateline Branch, with its myriad of cascades, and took the most recommended "blue blaze" (or side trail) on the entire AT, according to an informal poll on whiteblaze.net, the Mt Cammerer Lookout Tower, built in the 1930's and which I had all to myself. (I must remember to advise NOBOs to blue-blaze more, though it's hard to take the time to do so early on in your thru attempt.)Trillium is everywhere here, in a multitude of colors and striations, as are other ephemerals: Snowdrops, Forget-me-Nots, and others.4/17 Peck's Corner Shelter, mile 217My 2nd day in the park means another wet and crowded shelter; thru-hikers must stay at or near shelters in the park, or face a hefty fine, so they end up full. Some Old Crow and another safety meeting helped lift everyone's spirits. Some great views, especially of Mt Guyot at over 6,300', despite the mists, but the trail is a muddy mess, mostly due to its over-use. Lots of bear scat, but sightings are rare on the AT here, given his heavy traffic. Elk have been re-introduced to the park in the last few years, but they are in the meadows eating the shit out of grass. 4/18 Grand Prix Hotel, Gatlinburg, mile 207An amazing day. I was basically out of food and wet and fairly miserable, having just learned of a major car show crowding out any hikers who bothered to hitch down to Gatlinburg. I didn't particularly want to go there in the first place, but the other option, Cherokee, to the east of Newfound Gap, where the only road in the park crosses the trail is also grim, and less hiker-friendly, and I failed to properly re-supply at Standing Bear. I was getting anxious, nibbling on my last snickers, when some day-hikers I starting chatting with said that they brought too many sandwiches! We sat at Charles' Bunion, a famous overlook a few miles from the gap, and ate like lords. Some college kids out for the day threw in some Cliff Bars. Then, after I helped a trail-runner take down the winter tarps from a shelter, he loaned me his Verizon phone, enabling me to successfully search for a room in town. Then, I get to Newfound Gap, and couldn't miss Godspeed, a trail angel handing out bologna sandwiches to thru-hikers in the overlook's parking lot. He offered to take me to town, and dropped me right at this cheap hotel, but only after bringing tears to my eyes with a moving story. He started a thru-hike with his 18 year-old son some years back, but pulled out lame. His son finished, but complained of headaches as soon as he got home. It turned out to an inoperable tumor on his optic nerve, and only a "miracle" saved his life. As Godspeed told it, and while my emotional day caught up with me, he and his wife organized prayer meetings, and at one particular gathering prior to one particularly dangerous procedure, they asked for more faith to get through this crisis. Well, the post-op nurse responsible for their son's care was named Faith, and he beat the odds and is fully recovered, with two kids of his own. Godspeed wrote an account of this, and is working on a movie, so check it out for yourself. My rational and critical faculties were offline, and I was choking back a huge lump in my throat after 15 miles of this tale. I allowed Godspeed to put his hand on my shoulder and pray with me in the parking lot of the Grand Prix. It's odd how the trail can become such an emotional roller-coaster, and this was not the first time.I took a zero day in G-burg, watching the tourists slosh through puddles, doing touristy things such as riding the Oder-Gatlinburg tramway, and standing in line at free moonshine tastings, eating over-priced eggs, and doing laundry. The room was only $44, which is remarkable for that town on the weekend, and that is due to the hiker-loving owner, another X-ian, who knew Pensacola from the infamous Brownsville revival held here some 10 years ago. ("TN is becoming an old white guy's utopia," one hiker commented, and I get that.)4/20 Siler's Bald Shelter, mile 195Got a free ride back to the gap with 7 NOBOs staying at the Grand Prix, and had a beautiful day on the highest ridges of the park, including, of course, Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT at 6,655. It's my third time there, but the first time I've had it free of the clouds and mists that are so characteristic of the Smokies. It was breath-taking.The weather turned south, quickly, and large hailstones chased me into this shelter, crowded, needless to say.4/21 Russell Field Shelter, mile 183My final day in the park consisted of rough up and downs, heavy steps, especially over Thunderhead and Rocky Top Mtns, where the views were enhanced were enhanced by an impromptu safety meeting with a pack of young NOBOs. An awesome, challenging day.Tomorrow it's a huge descent down to 1,700' at Fontana Dam Lake.