Patent ID: 12209340

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The following description includes the best embodiments presently contemplated for carrying out the invention. This description is made for the purpose of illustrating the general principles of this invention and is not meant to limit the inventive concepts claimed herein in any way.

Some embodiments based on the present disclosure provide for systems and methods for transferring and manipulating fabrics and joining garment components during garment manufacturing in a way that is more suitable to automation. Some embodiments provide for garment manufacturing systems and methods that are reconfigurable to enable both mass production of customized garments and small batch processing with reduced human intervention.

As previously mentioned, traditional methods of making a garment require converting various measurements of body parts into two dimensional layouts (panels) corresponding to the various garment pieces or sections, cutting garment pieces out of webs of fabric, and using a variety of manual or semi-manual operations requiring a great deal of hand-eye coordination and manipulation to assemble together the various pieces of fabric to make a garment. This heavy reliance on manual processes is inefficient and limiting. Additionally, reliance on manual labor, especially labor with specialized skills is expensive, and inherently more prone to errors depending on the required skill, resulting in products lower yields due to higher defects, resulting in more rejections and increase costs. Simply put, the current garment manufacturing process remains heavily reliant on antiquated systems and processes carried over from the industrial revolution from the beginning of the 19th century. Therefore, it would be highly desirable to create systems and processes for garment manufacturing that lend themselves to significantly reduced reliance on manual product manipulation and handling, promote continuous garment manufacturing methods over piecemeal processing, and offer flexible systems that can mass produce items while allowing for customized production.

Embodiments based on the present disclosure cover processes that combine an adhesive to affect the permanent bonding of a variety of types of fabric, with a series of integrated mechanical processes to eliminate or greatly reduce material handling issues and the human intervention traditionally required in the garment manufacturing process. This will increase the speed and efficiency of the processes, improve the overall quality of the finished garments and provides for flexible systems that can mass produce items while allowing for customized production, whereby production items can be adjusted to individual size and style. Exemplary embodiments of the present invention provide for seam formation, joinder and cutting tools that are adaptable and programmable such as to allow automated and customizable garment manufacturing systems and processes.

Exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure will be described with reference to the manufacture of T-shirts. However, it would be understood that these described exemplary embodiments may be easily adapted to produce other types of garments including long sleeve shirts, dress shirts, jackets, pants, gloves, or non-garment products such as bedsheets, pillowcase, table cloth, rugs or handbags, etc. Therefore, the exemplary embodiments of this disclosure should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present disclosure.

Turning now to the drawings,FIG.1illustrates an automatic garment manufacturing system according to some exemplary embodiments of the present invention. The automated garment manufacturing system100ofFIG.1is designed to eliminate or reduce manual labor. As shown inFIG.1, system100includes a first web102including the back half103of a garment114(a T-shirt in the current example) corresponding to a given design and size. A second web of fabric104includes the front half105of the T-shirt114.

In some embodiments, one or more webs may comprise a continuous flat layer of fabric laid out in two dimensions. In some embodiments, one or more of the webs may include shapes other than a flat sheet, including any three-dimensional shape such as a tube or other shapes. In some embodiments, the web may not include a continuous sheet of fabric. In some embodiments, the web may act as a scaffolding (not shown in the drawing) or carrier for fabric components that are secured to the web by some means and are acted on as the web travels through path. In some embodiments one or more webs may include perforations along one or more borders. In some embodiments, one or more webs may be coupled to a scaffolding (not shown in the drawing) that includes perforations along one or more borders. In some embodiments, one or more fabric webs (e.g., webs102and104) may include perforated borders made of the same material as the web and integral to the web or made of the same or different material than the web and is attached to the one or more fabric web. In some embodiments, the border perforations of the web or the scaffolding may be used to pull the web along a given path pulled along by a system of one or more gears, providing control of the movement of the web, synchronize the movement of the web to other moving components of the exemplary manufacturing system. In exemplary embodiments, the sheet of fabric102is dispensed from the fabric role118that is operable to rotate about its axis and dispense the web102along the X-axis. Similarly, web104is dispensed from the fabric role120that is capable of rotating about its axis and dispensing the web104along the X-axis. In some embodiments, role118and/or role120are coupled to one or more actuators, gears, motors (continuous or step) that rotate at a selected speed pulling or pushing the web along the X-axis. In some embodiments, roles118and120are free to move but are not mounted on motorized shafts. In these exemplary embodiments, the webs102and104may be pulled by one or more actuators or motors located at suitable locations other than role118or120rods. In some embodiments, actuators or motors are located at rollers113and115, rollers122and123, rotary die roller112, and/or other suitable locations, providing pull or push forces acting on the webs102and104. In some embodiments, one or more rollers include actuating means that are operable to being actuated independently and activated in a way to distribute the application of the pull or push forces along the webs102and104to reduce the chances of damaging the fabric by overly stressing, straining or even tearing fabric web at one or more locations. In alternative embodiments, the webs102and104may have borders made of the same or different material, that may be perforated or include a greater friction coefficient, and where the border material is reinforced or inherently has greater tensile strength and provides for an area that may support and tolerate greater stress or strain forces than the fabric web materials can tolerate without affecting the quality of the fabric webs.

In some embodiments, the front half contour105and/or back half contour103of the T-shirt114include markings to further define the T-shirt114's borders on the corresponding webs102and104. In exemplary embodiments, the front half and back half contours105and103of the T-shirt114may be temporarily marked by visible, invisible, or washable ink. In other embodiments, no demarcation may be used to identify the contours of front half103or back half105of T-shirt114. In some embodiments, the outer face of the back half103and front half105of the T-shirt114may be facing out as shown inFIG.1. In some embodiments, back half103and front half105are arranged inside-out, so that the interior face of each half of T-shirt114would be facing out.

In exemplary embodiments, adhesive dispensers106and108dispense adhesive along the contours of the back half103and/or front half105of the T-shirt114, except may be in the neckline region, sleeve opening and bottom opening of the T-shirt114. The regions with no adhesive may remain open and form the neck, arms and body holes after the final cutting and finishing steps further described below.

In exemplary embodiments, after the deposition of the adhesive, web102and the web104continue to travel along the X axis toward a joinder point where webs102and web104are pressed together using one or more rollers (e.g. rollers110,122and123). In some embodiments, beyond the joinder point, the web102and web104are pressed together using a predetermined force, heat, radiation or moisture to activate any adhesive applied to the back half103and front half105of T-shirt114, and attach the back half103and front half105of T-shirt114to form a integral complete garment. In some embodiments, in addition to pressure, heat, radiation or moisture are applied to web102and web104. In some embodiments, the rollers110,122and123supply pressure, heat, radiation, or moisture uniformly to the web102and web104. In some embodiments, pressure, heat, radiation, or moisture may be applied only to certain regions of the back half103and front half105contours that have applied adhesive. In some embodiments, the pressure, heat, radiation, or moisture may not be applied through the rollers. In some embodiments, some or all the pressure, heat, radiation, or moisture may originate from sources other than the rollers110,122and123. In some embodiments, heat and radiation may be applied by conduction, radiation, or convection. In some embodiments, energy sources such as lasers, heat guns, or hot plates may supply the energy.

It should be apparent that synchronization of the movements of web102and web104are important. In some embodiments, mechanical means such as belts, chains gears and sprockets are used to actuate the movement of web102and104in sync. In some embodiments, electronic controls along with variable speed motors and/or step motor may be used to control the movement and speed of webs102and104in order to maintain web102and web104's movement in synch and provide for the accurate registration and alignment of the back half103to the front half105of T-shirt114. In some embodiments one or more webs may include perforations along one or more borders to be operable similar to a chain and sprocket conveyance mechanism operating on one or more webs102and104, or any other webs (not shown inFIG.1). In some embodiments, one or more webs may be coupled to a scaffolding (not shown in the drawing) that includes perforations along one or more borders. In some embodiments, the border perforations of the web or the scaffolding may be the mechanism that receive the conveyance forces propelling the web along its path, control the movement of the web, and synchronize the movement of the web to other moving components of the exemplary manufacturing system. Exemplary embodiments of this disclosure require the synchronization of fewer number of moving parts and allows for a more accurate control of the movement of any web, thus providing for exemplary systems and methods according to the present disclosure that are more easily implementable, resulting in improved production quality, fewer defects, a higher production yield and lower material and manufacturing costs.

With reference toFIG.1, after one or more rollers110,122and123join the back half103and front half105of T-shirt114together, the two halves of T-shirt114are permanently, pressed to for T-shirt114. In some embodiments, multiple rollers122and123operate on the webs102and104to join them together at the contours of T-shirt114, In some embodiments, the rotary die112may further cut T-shirt114along its borders and out of the joined webs102-104. In some embodiments, the rotary dies may cut the garment outside of the adhesive bondline, at the edge of the bondline or along an area within the bondline. The bondline refers to the areas of the fabric panels that are joined to form seams or hems. In some embodiments, the rotary dies may apply heat energy simultaneously with or after the cutting operation to melt or remelt the adhesive, the fabric or both to produce finished seams that are aesthetically more desirable, physically durable (prevent fraying) or both. In some embodiments, programmable and controllable cutters may be used to cut out the formed garment (T-shirt114) from the joined webs. In some embodiments, programmable and controllable cutters traveling along predetermined cutting paths may be used to detach the formed garment from the joined webs. In some embodiments, cutters may be directed or aided by machine vision and supporting artificial intelligence (AI) used to identify the actual bondline and cut along it or at an offset from the bondline. In some embodiments, the rollers122and123may be equipped with pressure sensing elements to detect any bulging that may correspond to when: bondlines are located and seams are formed and communicating the sensor readout in real-time to the programmable cutters for more accurate positioning and cutting operation. In some embodiments, T-shirt114may be cut to be completely free of the web102404combination. In some embodiments, fully or partially cutout T-shirt114may continue to travel on the web124to the next processing station. In some embodiments, instead of cutting, the garment114's borders are perforated by needles that may result in garment114that may remain partially attached to the joined webs102-104, for further processing to allow for easier handling of the garment114during processing. The garment114with perforated perimeter may be fully detached from the web during a cutting or stamping operation, at which point garment114is fully detached from the joint web110-104. In some embodiments, the detached I-shirts114are separated from the web102-104and collected for further processing at subsequent operating stations where the T-shirt114may be processed to receive a collar, hemming of the sleeves, adding pockets, zippers, embroidery and packaging. In some embodiments the joined web102-104leftover material116may accumulate on a roller for ultimate disposal. In some embodiments, the leftover116of the joined102-104is further processed to form components used for forming liners, pockets, seams, hemlines, necklines, or sleeve openings as described further below.

In some embodiments, T-shirts114remain fully or partially attached to the web102-104to continue to travel as part of the web102-104for easier material handling during additional processing. In some embodiments, additional processing may include customization operation of garment114including embroidery, DTG (direct-to-garment) printing, screen printing, etc. In some embodiments, after all processing is completed, T-shirts114are cutout of the web102-104and processed for final packaging.

FIG.2illustrates another automatic garment manufacturing system according to some exemplary embodiments of the present invention, System200includes a first web202, a second web204, one or more rollers as represented by roller228, one or more adhesive dispensing devices230, folding devices232, cutting devices234and optional additional fabric depositing devices represented by web224. In exemplary embodiments, fabric depositing device224may deposit a strip of fabric at the hemline of back half103and front half105of T-shirt114to form a hemline seam. In some embodiments, adhesive231is deposited along the bottom perimeter of back half105, front half103or both front half105and back half103prior to the fabric deposition by device224. Therefore, as web202and web204moved forward past roller228, joining back half103and front half105of T-shirt114, a seam is formed at the T-shirt114hemline. In some embodiments, fabric pieces225supplied to form the hemline seam of T-shirt114are dispensed from a continuous web of fabric224(not shown here) and cutter232cuts each of the fabric pieces225to an appropriate length based on the T-shirt size. In some embodiments, fabric pieces225are precut and coupled to a web224that is operable to dispense fabric pieces225one piece at a time at the appropriate cadence to remain in synch with the movements of web202and204, resulting in the fabric piece225to join the two parts of a garment to be formed at the desired location on the garment to form a seam, a pocket, a zipper, a logo, etc. In some embodiments, the the movement of web202, web204and web224are continuous. In some embodiments, the movement of web202, web204and web224follow a step movement. In some embodiments, one or more material web224may supply fabric pieces225to form a hemline, pockets, zippers and other ornamental or functional features. It should be understood that the fabric depositing devices may be located above web202and web204, below web202and web204, or some above one web and some below one web.

In some embodiments, folding tools or mechanisms232may be used to fold cut or uncut edges of one or more web202and web204, before or after the deposition of adhesive on the article edges prior to folding and forming a seam. Folding tools and the formation of various types of seams will be further discussed inFIGS.5and6. Note that the exemplary folding tools232ofFIG.2are shown as operative in the X-Y plane. In alternative embodiments, folding mechanisms232, adhesive dispensing mechanisms230, and cutting mechanisms234are operable to cut, fold and create seams along any direction in the plane of the fabric or perpendicular to it. In some embodiments, some, or all folding tools232, adhesive dispensers230and cutting tools234may be stationary. In some embodiments, some, or all folding tools232, adhesive dispensers230and cutting tools234are mobile in one or more directions. Once the operations of adhesive dispensing, cutting and folding have been performed, rollers228or equivalent devices will join the two webs202and204, each including part of the garment (as illustrated here each web includes either a front half or a back half of the garment) are brought together and pressure, steam, heat, lasers and other types of lights or radiation, and other operations are performed on the joined webs to activate and/or cure the applied adhesive231and permanently fuse the garment sections together. It should be understood that mechanisms other than rollers may be used to perform one or more operations designed to attach garment parts together depending on the type of fabric, the article design, the type of adhesive used and other manufacturing parameters. Cutting tools236may cut along the borders of the formed garment to detach the garment from the joined webs202and204. The formed garment114may be collected in one stack while the joined web with the cutout116may be collected in a web242for disposal or additional processing. For example, the excess fabric remaining on the joined webs202-204may be used to create components for seams, pockets, belt loops, etc.

FIG.3. illustrates alternative web layouts used in an automatic garment manufacturing system300according to some exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure. In some embodiments, efficient garment pattern is laid out in panel layout304on the web302may be used to optimize a variety of factors. In some embodiments, developing a garment pattern layout304the web302requires optimizing various parameters including reducing fabric material waste, simplifying the layout and ease of implementing manufacturing operations. In some embodiments, optimum garment panel layouts are configured using computers, software and artificial intelligence.

FIG.4. illustrates methods of applying adhesive in an automatic garment manufacturing process according to some exemplary embodiments of the present invention. In an exemplary system400ofFIG.4, adhesives are deposited along the borders of the back half103of T-shirt114while the back half103is still attached to the web102. In exemplary embodiments, the adhesive may be applied in a solid, liquid, gel, or gaseous form. In some embodiments, the adhesive may be activated by heat, moisture in the air, pressure, lasers, lights or other forms of radiation, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the adhesive is applied to only one side of the garment, e.g. back half103in the illustrative example ofFIG.4. In some embodiments, adhesive may be applied to both sections of the garment114, back half103and front half105. In some embodiments, adhesive may be partially applied to each half of garment114. In some embodiments, adhesive may be applied following different patterns for different sections of the garment114as the manufacturing requirements. In some embodiments, the perimeter for the application of adhesive to back half103(or front half105not shown inFIG.4) may be defined to be larger or smaller than the actual size of the back half103(or front half105not shown inFIG.4) of the garment. For example, the perimeter for the application of the adhesive to the back half103(or the front half105) of the garment114may be larger than the boundaries of the back half of the garment103(or the front half105). In that scenario, the subsequent cutting operation of the formed garment114may cut into the formed seam between the back half103and front half105of the garment114to achieve a desired functional or aesthetic property. In some embodiments, cutting into this border may be desirable to eliminate malformed seams or eliminate excess adhesive extrusions or bulging. In some embodiments, the garment border may be cut in such a manner to reduce the chances of garment fabric fraying. In some embodiments, the cutting process may be aided by heat to remelt the adhesive, the fabric or both at the newly cut joint to produce finished seams that are aesthetically pleasing, mechanically strong and durable or a combination of desired effects.

In some embodiments, the adhesion of back half103to the front half105, or the adhesion of any other garment parts to another may be achieved using a laser. In some embodiments, a laser beam may be used to provide heat energy to activate one or more layers of adhesive acting to bind garment components. In some embodiments, garment parts made of synthetic fibers may be fused together directly using heat in any form such as a laser to melt the synthetic fibers of the garment parts.

In some embodiments, adhesives may be dispensed in a single layer. In some embodiments, adhesives may be dispensed in one or more layers. For example, a first layer410can be dispensed as a permanent adhesive and a second layer412can be dispensed as a pressure sensitive layer. In some embodiments, a single formulation or type of adhesive may be used for all layers. In alternative embodiments, different types of adhesives with different properties may be used for different layers. In the illustrative example ofFIG.4, a hot-melt polyurethane (HMPUR) adhesive known for its application to garment fabric is used. One of the properties of HMPUR is its ability to react with moisture present in the air to change chemically and create a strong bond between materials. This bond may then continue to strengthen over 24-96 hours until it is fully cured. As such, HMPUR is a good adhesive for use with many types of textile materials. The HMPUR may be dispensed through a hot melt dispensing spray gun that can create specific graphic patterns on demand to allow for predetermined coverage and placement of adhesive on fabric. Other adhesives with different chemistry such as those of polyester, polyamide and epoxy may also be used.

In some embodiments, the adhesive is applied using one or more patterns414, each pattern designed to achieve different properties. In some embodiments, the adhesive may be applied in a non-linear pattern such as serpentine, zig zag or curvilinear416manner within a defined band or border, along the perimeter of the back half103or front half105of garment114. In some embodiments, certain adhesive patterns may provide a greater degree of movement or stretchability at the joint in a particular direction while still retaining sufficient seam strength. In some embodiments, the adhesive may be applied in discrete non-continuous dots418, non-contagious stripes or ellipsoids420, and positioned at one or more angles with respect to the borders of the garment. In some embodiments, the application of a pattern of non-continuous adhesive may impart the necessary bonding strength while reducing the amount of adhesive consumed as compared to a pattern requiring the continuous application of adhesive to the same area.

FIGS.5and5A-5Gillustrates exemplary systems for cutting, folding and seam formation according to some exemplary embodiments of the present invention. As shown inFIGS.5and5A-C, in some embodiments, the cut and fold mechanism500includes tools, structures and components allowing one or more cut/fold head(s)510to move in three dimensions, along the length of the web, along the width of the web, and in a direction perpendicular to the web. In some embodiments, rails502provide cut/fold head510mobility in a direction along the length of the webs102,104(parallel to the X-axis as shown inFIG.5) or any other web. Similarly, rail504provides for movement in a direction along the width of the webs102,104(along the Y-axis as shown inFIG.5) or along one or more directions with respect other webs. In some embodiments, cut/fold head510may be operable to turn on an axis which may be at an angle or perpendicular to the plane of the webs102and104. In some embodiments, cut/fold head510may include mechanisms that can retract or extend folding tool512or cutting tool514, providing for movements perpendicular to the plane of the web102,104or other webs (along the Z-axis, into and out of the page as shown inFIG.5), to disable or enable the cutting and folding tools from engaging with the web. In some embodiments, the cut/fold head510includes actuators or motors that operable to actuate the cut/fold head510in three dimensions. In some embodiments, actuator506includes one or more step motors, continuous motors, or other types of actuators that move cut/fold head510along rail504. In some embodiments, rail504is coupled to rails502in such a way to allow rail504to move back and forth along the length of rails502, providing for the cut/fold head510to travel along the length of webs102and104(X-axis) in addition to travels along the width of webs102,104(Y-axis) or travel in the plane of other webs.

In some embodiments, cut/fold head510includes a folding tool512(also referred to as the folding head or folding mechanism) and a cutting tool514, shown in diametric view530and side view534. As shown inFIGS.5D-5Gillustrating a cabinet view536, a front view538, and a side view540of the folding tool512, in some embodiments, the folding tool512may include actuators that can extend or retract the folding tool512along an axis516(Z-axis) perpendicular to the plane of web102,104or other webs. In some embodiments, the folding tool512includes gears, motors or other types of actuators that allow the folding tool512to rotate about an axis518(parallel to the Z-axis), providing finer movements of the folding tool512, as shown in front view532. As shown inFIGS.5D-5G, in some embodiments, the folding tool512may include an entry face522with a greater area or height, an exit face524with a smaller area or height, and a gradually narrowing channel526connecting the two faces522and524. This design is operable to fold fabric edges as the folding tool512travels along a given path. As shown inFIGS.5and5A-C, the folding tool512may move along any direction in three dimensions allowing the formation of seams corresponding to a variety of shapes and designs. In some embodiments, one or more folding tool512may be affixed to and stationary with respect to the garment manufacturing system but operable to allow webs102and104(or other webs not shown) to travel through the stationary folding tool. In the example of a fix folding tool512, as a web102or104travels through a folding tool512, it operates on the web and folds the fabric to form a fold and/or a scam. In some embodiments, folding tool512may include one or more apparatuses (not shown) such as rollers or plates operable to provide pressure and/or heat to enhance and/or maintain the folded edge of the web fabric102or104, or to activate and cure any adhesives applied to form a seam. In some embodiments, one or more fixed folding tool512may operate alongside one or more mobile folding tools512to fold edges of web102, web104or other webs, as the web in one or more directions. Fixed folding tools may be easier to implement but mobile folding tools provide greater flexibility. A non-stationary or mobile folding tool512as shown inFIGS.5and5A-G that is operable to move in any direction in three dimensions and rotating in clockwise or counterclockwise directions up to 360 degrees with respect to a web would provide greater versatility to creating more complicated designs. In some embodiments, the cut/fold head510may include one or more folding tools512, each including different physical or operational characteristics.

In some embodiments, the cut/fold head510includes a cutting tool514. In some embodiments, each cut/fold head510may include a single tool such as a cutting tool514or a folding tool512. In some embodiments, the cut/fold head510may include a cutting tool514and a folding tool512on the same tool head. In some embodiments, each cut/fold head510may include one or more cutting tools514and/or folding tools512based on the manufacturing processes and the garment design requirements. In some embodiments, the cutting tool514may be a mechanical cutter such as a knife, a blade, a scissor or needles. In some embodiments, the cutting operation is performed by needles that may perforate the borders of the garment114while leaving the garment114attached to the web until further processing completes the separation of the garment114from the joined webs102and104. In some embodiments, the cutting tool514may use a laser cutter or other non-mechanical cutting devices. In some embodiments, the cut/fold head510may include one or more cutting tools514, each including different physical or operational characteristics. In some embodiments, the cutting tool514may be extended or retracted along an axis (Z-axis) perpendicular to the plane of the web102,104or other webs. In some embodiments, the cutting tool514may operate in a fixed direction with respect to the direction of travel of a web and thus operable to cut the fabric in a fixed direction. In some embodiments the cutting tool514may travel along any path as defined by combinations of X, Y coordinates and rotate in clockwise or counterclockwise directions up to 360 degrees with respect to the web. The ability to rotate may be required of a mechanical cutter to produce non-linear seams. The same limitation may not apply to non-mechanical cutters such as a laser cutter. In some embodiments, a cutting tool514is in a static position in front of the folding tool512with respect to the direction of motion. In some embodiments, the cutting tool514and folding tool's512positions with respect to each other are adjustable prior to the start of the manufacturing operations and/or dynamically during the manufacturing operations. In some embodiments, the cutting tool514cuts the web fabric102,104and other fabric webs per the garment design specifications. In some embodiments, as the cutting tool514cuts the web according to the design specifications, the folding tool512may engage in folding the cut sections of the fabric into a desired fold or seam shape. In some embodiments, seams are formed after applying adhesive, folding and/or cutting web material per a given design specification that dictates the sequence and coordinates for the application of each adhesive, fold and cut operation. Various seam shapes may be achieved using the cut/fold system and method described in this disclosure. Exemplary seam formations are further described below inFIGS.6A-6C. In some embodiments, fixed or mobile folding head514may fold fabric and form a seam by applying adhesive to the fold prior to the folding operation, with or without the need to engage the cutting tool514to cut any fabric. As described herein, cutting tool514, folding tool512and adhesive application tools106(FIG.1) can move in three dimensions allowing for the formation of complex shapes that may be required by some article designs. However, in some embodiments, the cutting tool514, folding tool512and adhesive application tools106may be stationary along one or more directions. In some embodiments, a combination of stationary and mobile cutting tools514, folding tools512and adhesive application tools106may be used. In some embodiments, the folding tool512may include additional tools to apply pressure and/or heat to enhance or maintain the folded edge in shape after the fabric is folded by the folding tool512. In some embodiments, the folding tool512is located close to rollers228(FIG.2) (e.g. 10 mm to 100 mm). In some embodiments, the proximity of the folding tool512to the rollers228enhances the maintenance of the shape of the fold fabric because the folded fabric is kept taut under the tension in the web as it passes over the rollers228that changes the web's travel direction.

FIGS.6A,6B and6Cillustrate exemplary methods of seam formation as used in an automatic garment manufacturing process according to some exemplary embodiments of the present invention.FIG.6Aillustrates the formation of a simple peel seam or superimposed seam. As seen fromFIG.6A, the peel seam is formed by the application of adhesive606in-between web layer602and web layer604in a face-to-face configuration. After the formation of a bond between the two webs, excessive fabric is cut away from outside the bondline, the edge of the bondline or at some distance into the bondline, providing a finished and aesthetically acceptable simple peel seam. The peel seam ofFIG.6Ais relatively simple to fabricate because it does not require cutting or folding of the fabric before joining the two edges of web layer602and web layer604. However, the peel joint may have relatively low strength against forces that are applied perpendicular to the joint resulting in the joint coming apart or “peeling.”

FIG.6Billustrates the formation of a simple lap seam. As seen fromFIG.6B, the simple lap seam is formed by the application of adhesive606between web layer602and web layer604in a face to back configuration. The simple lap seam ofFIG.6Bis formed by first cutting and folding web layer604so as to have its outer face facing and adhesively joined to the inner face of the lower web layer602. After a bond formation step, the excessive fabric in web602may be cut to form a finished simple lap seam. The simple lap seam ofFIG.6Bprovides a higher strength against forces that are applied perpendicular to the joint.

FIG.6Cillustrates the formation of a double lap seam. As seen fromFIG.6C, the double lap seam is formed by the application of a piece of fabric225(as shown inFIG.2) partially or completely coated with adhesive606on one side609between web layer602and web layer604. After bond formation, excessive fabric on web602and web604may be cut to form a finished double lap seam. Double lap seams as shown in embodiments ofFIG.6Cprovides a higher strength against forces that are applied perpendicular to the joint. An advantage of a double lap seam may be aesthetics because a double lap seam may provide a cleaner looking finished seam on a garment.

It would be apparent to one skilled in the art that the above bonded seam types are illustrative examples only. A variety of bonded seams may be formed using the cutting, folding, inserting processes described in this disclosure. It would be apparent to one skilled in the art that one or more types of bonded seams may be required by the design or manufacturing specifications of a particular garment, in addition to limitations and requirements imposed by the nature of the fabrics and adhesives, aesthetic, endurance, sealing or permeability requirements of individual seams.

FIG.7A. illustrates an exemplary flow chart for processing design data used in an automated garment manufacturing process according to some embodiments. As seen inFIG.7A, an exemplary automated garment manufacturing process using adhesive may start with the operation702of receiving garment manufacturing design data including the selection of a garment style, selection of colors, the types of accessories such as pockets and zippers that are required, personalization choices such as a logo created using various garment printing processes, embroidery or other embellishment using other accessories. Additional design data may include 3-D measurements, dimensions and sizes of the particular garment and other particulars of the article as measured in three dimensions, for example by a specialized scanners. In operation702, based on the 3D design data received, the garment type is selected (e.g. a T-shirt, long sleeve shirt or a jacket). Similarly, based on the received design data, fabric is selected and the size of the garment is determined. The size of a garment may be based on actual 3D measurements in the case of custom fit garments or based on a ready-to-wear size chart. In the case of a custom fit garment, the measurements of the various parts of the garment are determined directly from actual measurements obtained either by a scanner or a manual measuring. In the case of a ready-to-wear garment, dimensions of the various garment parts such as the length, width and girth of the body of the garment, the sleeves, the neckline, etc. may be derived from the size of the garment derived from a generalized size to dimension correspondence table.

In operation704, the three-dimensional garment design data are converted into the dimensions of individual components of the garment to be manufactured. The garment dimensions may include length and width of the body, the sleeves, the neckline, etc. of the garment. Based on the type of the fabric selected, the garment component dimensions may be adjusted to account for fabric properties such as stretch.

In operation706, the 3D geometries of the garment components are converted to a 2-D representation. In operation708, the two-dimensional representations of the garment are mapped or laid out onto one or more fabric webs. In some embodiments, the pattern of mapping garment components on one or more fabric web is laid out in panels in such a way to simplify fabrication, minimize material waste, or both.

In operation710, based on the dimensions of the laid-out garment, the type of fabric or the aesthetic design of the garment, the bonding edges, shapes and the free edges of the garment are identified. The layout of the garment on the fabric web may include the steps of selecting which garment component panels are to be laid-out on which web, (e.g. right, left, upper or lower web). Additionally, considerations for the layout of the garment panels may include laying out the garment pieces inside-out or outside-in, headfirst or bottom first, etc.

In operation712, the garment layout dimensions may be adjusted to accommodate the appropriate bonding border requirements including adhesive line width, adhesive dispensing pattern, cutting path and dimensional quality assurance specification for the finish garment.

In a parallel process flow path, in operation714, based on the received 3D garment design data, the automated garment manufacturing system100may select the corresponding fabric web and load each fabric web in preparation for the start of manufacturing. In some embodiments, the selection and loading and preparation of the fabric web may be performed manually, semi-manually or automatically. In some embodiments, some or most of the material handling operations required at this step may be done automatically, for example using robots and cobots.

In operation716, based on the garment design data, a joinder recipe is selected which determines the adhesive type to be used, the adhesive patterns (straight, zigzag, serpentine) and the adhesive curing parameters.

Finally, in operation718the cutting recipe is determined based on garment design data. For example, a particular cutting recipe may be used to minimize material waste or achieve a certain aesthetic design requirement.

FIG.7B. illustrates an exemplary flow chart for cutting and joinder processes used in an automated garment manufacturing process according to some embodiments. The operations detailed inFIG.7Bare generally directed to forming edges and seams for a garment in an automated fashion.

In operation720, adhesive is applied to on one or more moving fabric webs per the manufacturing recipe created in operation716. In operation722, one or more webs are joined at least along areas where adhesive has been applied. Heat, pressure, moisture, radiation and/or catalysts may be applied for a given period of time (as per the manufacturing recipe) to the joined areas to activate and cure the bond between the joined web regions. Each of the parameters used to create a joint may be individually tuned and adjusted to achieve the optimum bonded joint based on the garment type, the joint type, dimensions, type of adhesive, whether the joint must be waterproof or not, and the aesthetics of the joint.

In operation724, the joined regions that are formed by bonding one or more web areas together are cut on the outside perimeter of the joint, along the edge of the joint or at some distance within the joint. In some embodiments, the cutting along the joints may be complete along the entire garment perimeter, in which case the garment is hereafter fully detached from the webs. In some embodiments, the cutting operation may be limited to specific boundaries of the garment that may include bonded edges and free edges where no adhesive has been applied. In some embodiments the cutting operation may achieve both a functional and an aesthetic function. In some embodiments, the cutting operation may be limited to certain areas of the garment perimeter and the garment remains attached to the fabric webs until further processing. In some embodiments, the cutting is performed using needles to perforate the web but not to completely detach the garment from the web. In some embodiments, the final detachment of the garment from the web may be performed at a later stage in the garment manufacturing.

In some embodiments, in operation726, based on the garment design data and the corresponding manufacturing requirements, the system determines whether each layer of a garment part with unbonded free edges (e.g., sleeve holes, neck hole) must align to each other or not. For example, for increased comfort wear, some T-shirt designs may require the layer of fabric layer forming the back of the neck section to be longer (taller as measured from the T-shirt hemline) than the front layer of fabric comprising the neck hole.

In some embodiments, in operation728, if the garment design data requires the open edges of the garment in some area to be aligned between the two webs, then a single cutting operation may be performed on both layers of the garment. For example, both the lower and upper layers of fabric forming the sleeve hole may be cut in a single cut operation.

In some embodiments, in operation730, if the garment design data requires the opening fabric edges not to align (e.g., the fabric layer of the back of neck hole must be longer than the fabric layer at the front of the neck hole), for each cutting operation, one fabric layer may be cut while the other fabric layers may be protected by an insert between the cutter and the other layers of fabric. For example, in the case of some T-shirt necklines, the edge of the back layer of fabric for the neck hole must be higher than the edge of the front layer of fabric for the neck hole. In such cases, the cutting operation may be performed in separate steps, using one or more cutters to cut a given fabric layer while protecting other fabric layers using a protective insert.

In operation732, a quality inspection of the finished garment may be performed. In some embodiments, the quality inspection may be performed by human operators through a visual inspection. In some embodiments, a quality inspection may be performed using cameras using artificial intelligence. In some embodiments, the quality inspection may be performed while the finished garment is still attached to the web to simplify any material handling issues.

FIG.8. illustrates an exemplary block diagram of a control system for an automatic garment manufacturing system according to exemplary embodiments of the present invention.

In some embodiments, the illustrative control system800includes a manufacturing control module801coupled to various components including one or more ordering system818, one or more design systems820, one or more production planning systems822, one or more user interface devices814, and one or more manufacturing system and control signal processor816. In some embodiments, the manufacturing control module801may include one or more processors802coupled to memory modules804and one or more communication interfaces806to provide means for communicating with various automated garment manufacturing system inputs including one or more optical sensors and/or cameras808, motion sensors810and temperature and pressure sensors812. In various embodiments, various other types of sensors, not shown here, may provide relevant manufacturing parameters such as the level of moisture present in the factory air, viscosity of adhesive liquid, etc. Additionally, the manufacturing control module may include one or more power sub-systems and power backup systems not shown here.

The manufacturing control module801may be implemented at least partially in one or more computers, embedded systems, terminals, control stations, handheld devices, modules, any other suitable interface devices, or any combination thereof. In some embodiments, the components of manufacturing control system801may be communicatively coupled via one or more communications buses not shown here.

Processing equipment802may include a processor (e.g., a central processing unit), cache, random access memory (RAM), read only memory (ROM), any other suitable components, or any combination thereof that may process information regarding the automated garment manufacturing system100. Memory804may include any suitable volatile or non-volatile memory that may include, for example, random access memory (RAM), read only memory (ROM), flash memory, a hard disk, any other suitable memory, or any combination thereof. Information stored in memory804may be accessible by processing equipment802via communications bus not shown. For example, computer readable program instructions (e.g., for implementing the techniques disclosed herein) stored in memory804may be accessed and executed by processing equipment802. In some embodiments, memory804includes a non-transitory computer readable medium for storing computer executable instructions that cause processing equipment802(e.g., processing equipment of a suitable computing system), to carry out a method for controlling the automated garment manufacturing systems and processes. For example, memory804may include computer executable instructions for implementing any of the control techniques described herein.

In some embodiments, communications interface806includes a wired connection (e.g., using IEEE 802.3 ethernet, or universal serial bus interface protocols), wireless coupling (e.g., using IEEE 802.11 “Wi-Fi,” Bluetooth, or via cellular network), optical coupling, inductive coupling, any other suitable coupling, or any combination thereof, for communicating with one or more systems external to manufacturing control module801. For example, communications interface806may include a USB port configured to accept a flash memory drive. In a further example, communications interface806may include an Ethernet port configured to allow communication with one or more devices, networks, or both. In a further example, communications interface806may include a transceiver configured to communicate using 4G standards over a cellular network.

In some embodiments, user interface814includes a wired connection (e.g., using IEEE 802.3 ethernet, or universal serial bus interface, tip-ring-seal RCA type connection), wireless coupling (e.g., using IEEE 802.11 “Wi-Fi,” Infrared, Bluetooth, or via cellular network), optical coupling, inductive coupling, any other suitable coupling, or any combination thereof, for communicating with one or more of user interface devices814. User interface devices814may include a display, keyboard, mouse, audio device, any other suitable user interface devices, or any combination thereof. For example, a display may include a display screen such as, for example, a cathode ray tube screen, a liquid crystal display screen, a light emitting diode display screen, a plasma display screen, any other suitable display screen that may provide graphics, text, images or other visuals to a user, or any combination of screens thereof. Further, a display may include a touchscreen, which may provide tactile interaction with a user by, for example, offering one or more soft commands on a display screen. In a further example, user interface devices814may include a keyboard such as a QWERTY keyboard, a numeric keypad, any other suitable collection of hard command buttons, or any combination thereof. In a further example, user interface devices814may include a mouse or any other suitable pointing device that may control a cursor or icon on a graphical user interface displayed on a display screen. In a further example, user interface devices814may include an audio device such as a microphone, a speaker, headphones, any other suitable device for providing and/or receiving audio signals, or any combination thereof. In some embodiments, user interface814, need not be included (e.g., control module801need not receive user input nor provide output to a user).

In some embodiments, a sensor interface (not shown) may be used to supply power to various sensors, a signal conditioner (not shown), a signal pre-processor (not shown) or any other suitable components, or any combination thereof. For example, a sensor interface may include one or more filters (e.g., analog and/or digital), an amplifier, a sampler, and an analog to digital converter for conditioning and pre-processing signals from sensor(s)808,810and812. In some embodiments, the sensor interface communicates with sensor(s) via communicative coupling which may be a wired connection (e.g., using IEEE 802.3 ethernet, or universal serial bus interface), wireless coupling (e.g., using IEEE 802.11 “Wi-Fi,” or Bluetooth), optical coupling, inductive coupling, any other suitable coupling, or any combination thereof.

Sensor(s)808,810and812may include any suitable type of sensor, which may be configured to sense any suitable property or aspect of automated garment manufacturing systems and processes100, any other system, or any combination thereof. In some embodiments, sensor(s)808,810and812include linear encoders, rotary encoders, or both, configured to sense relative positions, speed, temperature, pressure, etc. In some embodiments, sensor(s) includes various types of optical sensors808including cameras configured to capture images (e.g., time-lapse imaging) of various aspects of the operation of the automated garment manufacturing systems and processes. In some embodiments, temperature and pressure sensor(s)812include one or more temperature sensors such as, for example, a thermocouple, a thermistor, a resistance temperature detector (RTD), any other suitable sensor for detecting temperature, or any combination thereof. For example, sensor(s)812may include a thermocouple arranged to measure the temperature and/or viscosity of liquid adhesive to be applied to the webs.

Automated Hem Formation:

With the manual manufacture of items such as garments, bags etc. many of the fabrication operations have been performed after various portions of the item have been joined together, such as by seaming. For example, in the case of a shirt, various panels such as back front, sleaves etc. can first be joined together to form a three-dimensional item by manual operations of sewing by a skilled seamstress using tactile feedback to judge how fast and with what tension to feed under the sewing machine, as an example, two body panel fabrics to properly join them together and form the body of the garment. After the body panels have been joined together, other operations may be performed, such as the formation of hem seams at various openings such as neck holes, bottom openings, sleeve openings, etc. In addition, other fabrication operations such as the addition of pockets or ornamental items can be added. This can work in a manual fabrication environment where human operators manipulate and operate on garment components. However, the manipulation of garment components requires a great deal of skill and dexterity on the part of the human operator performing the operation. In an automated setting, such an order of operations becomes much more challenging. The manipulation of a soft, flexible, three-dimensional item such as a t-shirt by a robot or other tooling in an automated manufacturing environment presents significant challenges. Therefore, in an automated fabrication environment, performing as many operations as possible on a flat sheet of fabric makes automation much easier and much more reliable. For example, forming a hem seam on a flat section of fabric before joining two or more panels together, or installing a pocket or ornamental feature on a flat panel of fabric, greatly facilitates the accuracy and feasibility of an automated process. For purposes of the present description, a large or continuous roll or sheet of fabric will be referred to herein as a hem.

FIG.9shows a schematic illustration of a computer vision system900which may optionally be utilized in a hem formation process to be described herein below. In one embodiment, the computer vision system900can be implemented in a garment manufacturing process that can perform manufacturing operations on a web of fabric902, which can be supplied and retrieved by rolls904,906, and which can be conveyed by exerting force directly on the fabric or indirectly by transporting the fabric on one or more conveyor belts908.

The computer vision system900can include an operating system910, that can include circuitry, software and computer memory, and which is operable to receive manufacturing data911and to deliver machine readable instructions to tooling912. The tooling912can be, for example a cutting tool which can include one or more blades, scissors, saws, lasers, etc., that can be operable to cut one or more pieces out of one or more layers of fabric902. The tooling912could also be some other type of tooling, such as tooling for joining two or more pieces of fabric by applying adhesive or stitching the fabric web pieces. The tooling912could also be robotic tooling for affixing one or more items to the fabric. The tooling912could also be embroidery tooling, printing tooling, silk screen tooling, etc. Possible embodiments of the tooling912will be further described in greater detail herein below.

The computer vision system900can include one or more projectors914, and a vision component916. The vision component916can be a video camera, still frame camera, spectrometer, or some other type of device capable of receiving visual information from the workpiece (e.g., fabric902) and one or more images displayed by the one or more projectors914a,914b.

FIG.10shows a top-down view of a material portions1002,1004. Each of the material portions1002,1004may be formed as a continuous web of fabric that can be laid out on and supported by a flat surface1006. Material portions1002and1004are layers of fabric that may be of any size and may accommodate one or more garment components on its surface. For clarity, in the exemplary embodiments below each fabric layer1002or1004is shown to accommodate a single garment panel, in this case a top panel1004and a bottom panel1002. In alternative embodiments, each fabric layer1002and1004may include a plurality of garment panels to be used to form the garment and allow for less material waste. In the embodiment shown inFIG.10, the fabric panels1002,1004may be portions of a common continuous web of fabric or could be two or more separate continuous webs of fabric. Such embodiments have been previously described above with reference toFIGS.1-9. In an exemplary embodiment the continuous webs of fabric1002or1004are suspended freely between one or more rollers, fabric rolls. In other embodiments, the material portions1002and1004may be laid on or supported by a flat surface1006comprised of backing material such as a chain link conveyor that allows for access to the material portions from below the flat surface1006. The material portions1002,1004can be a fabric, such as a fabric web and could be a fabric web supplied and retrieved from rolls904,906as described above with reference toFIG.9. The material portions1002,1004could be a fabric, felt or could be any number of other types of flexible workpiece material such as natural or synthetic material such as leather, vinyl, upholstery, etc. Also, although the fabric portions1002,1004are shown as two separate material portions, they could be made of a single or multiple types of material, fabric, leather, upholstery, etc. The surface1006can be one or more conveyor belts, such as the conveyor belt908described above with reference toFIG.9or configurations described above with reference toFIGS.1and2. In alternative embodiments, the fabric web is conveyed directly via rollers, motors and other actuators that can pull the fabric and move it.

FIG.10also shows exemplary body panels1008,1010to be formed into an exemplary T-shirt. In the present disclosure, the term “panel” refers to a portion of fabric that has been already cut from a bolt or piece of fabric to form a garment piece that can joined by seaming to another fabric piece. However, for purposes of the present disclosure, the term “panel” can also be used to refer to a pattern that has not yet been cut from a larger bolt or roll of fabric, but which can be later seamed and cut according to a process that facilitates automated manufacture. In exemplary embodiments, one or more manufacturing processes are applied to patterns or panels on a flat fabric portion still connected with a web of fabric because it allows for certain manufacturing processes to be more easily automated. Such automation would be impractical on a loose, pliable panel of fabric that has been already cut from a larger piece or web of fabric. In addition, the term “hem” is used herein to describe a portion of fabric that has been folded over and affixed to itself, whereas the term “seam” is used to describe the joining of one fabric piece to another fabric piece.

The dashed lines1012show the locations of future operations to be carried out to form the patterns or panels1008,1010, while the solid lines1014show the location where cutting operations will be performed to form a hem as shown below. In one exemplary embodiment, patterns/panels1008and1010may also be configured as body panels for a T-shirt. In exemplary embodiments, the dashed lines1012and the solid lines1014may be projections of a pattern from a projector914onto the fabric layers1002and1004. as described above with reference toFIG.9according to one embodiment. In another embodiment, the solid lines1014could also represent a location where cutting, bonding and/or seaming operations will be performed either manually or through use of automated machines such as by computer numerical control or robotics, rather than being an actual projection. In alternative embodiments, the solid lines1014may represent both the locations where certain operations may be performed on the fabric layers1002and1004as well as the projections of a projector914onto a fabric layer1002and1004. In exemplary embodiments, the computer vision system900may be operable to verify the accuracy of fabrication operations performed on fabric layers1002and1004by comparing the location and the trace of the operations to the projections of the computer vision system onto the fabric layers1002and1004. InFIG.10, the panels1008,1010are shown as being front and back panels of a shirt such as a t-shirt. This is, however, by way of example, as the pattern could be for any number of other panel pieces of any number of products requiring hemming, such as, but not limited to pants, jackets, or other garments, hats, handbags, backpacks, other accessories, as well as pillow cases, bed sheets, towels, etc. In the embodiment shown inFIG.10, the panels1008,1010are shown as being flipped relative to one another. In order to join the patterns1008,1010together to form a product (i.e., t-shirt) the one of the panels1008,1010must be first flipped over to join with the other pattern. In one embodiment, the panels1008,1010are laid out on the panels continuous web of fabric1002/1004inside out relative to a garment to be formed.

With reference toFIG.11, tooling1102may be operable to make cuts along one or more hem lines to form notches1014. In exemplary embodiments, the notches1014can be configured as a single cut along a transverse line, including a shallow cut at a proximal and distal end of the cut in a direction that is approximately 90 degrees from the transverse line. In some embodiments, the length and shape of the transverse line may be determined by the shape and size of the garment to be manufactured (e.g., size of a neck hole or sleave), whereas the dimensions of the shallow cuts at the distal ends of the transverse line may be determined by the desired depth of a hem to be formed. The tooling1102can be a manual cutting tooling, or in alternative embodiments, it could an automated tooling. The tooling1102may be one of various types of cutting tooling such as, but not limited to laser, scissor, knife, saw, etc. It should be pointed out, that the cuts1014on one pattern1008, may not be the same as the cuts1014on the other pattern1010. For example, in the example shown, where the patterns1008,1010are front and back panels respectively of a t-shirt, the neckline of the front panel (e.g.,1008) could have a deeper and slightly different shaped curve than the neckline of the back panel (e.g.,1010) in order to trace the natural contours of the human body and ensure a proper fit. Again, it should also be pointed out that the illustration of t-shirt panels inFIG.11is by way of example, as many other types of garments or other items requiring hems could be contemplated.

FIG.12shows an enlarged view of a pattern1008or1010. As shown inFIG.12, when a cut1014has a curved shape, such as for a neckline, slits1202may be cut into and along the curve of the cut1014to allow for proper folding along the curved line as will be seen. The slits1202can be straight as shown or could be “V” shaped, depending upon the application. Generally speaking, if the hem cut1014is concave the slits1202can be straight, whereas if the hem cut1014is convex the slits1202can be “V” shaped. In some embodiments the slits1202can be generally 90 degrees relative to the transverse line. In other embodiments, the slits1202may form more acute angles relative to the cut1014transverse line.

FIG.13is a top-down view showing a tool1302for folding, creasing, and or pressing a hem. For purposes of clarity, the tool1302can be functional to fold press and crease the fabric layers1002/1004to form folded creases in each fabric layer1002,1004. The tooling1302can include a control system or circuitry1304which can control movement of a tooling head (referred to hereafter as folding tool1306for simplicity) through use of an articulating mechanism1308, which may be an arm or other mechanism capable of moving the folding tool1306in three dimensions.

FIG.14shows an enlarged, perspective view of the area in circle14ofFIG.13. The previously formed notch cut1014forms a flap1408, that can bend upward and can be folded over. The formation of this flap is made possible by the previously described short cuts at the distal ends of the transvers cut line. As discussed above, the flap1408can be formed with slits1202as described above with reference toFIG.12to accommodate a curved hem. It should be pointed out that, when a material such as fabric, leather, upholstery, etc. is notch cut as described above, the material tends to curl upward as shown inFIG.14. This can be used to advantage for the below described process. As shown inFIG.14, the folding tool1306can have a bent shape, which can have an “L” shaped cross section having a bottom1406and back edge1408and can be configured with such a shape and size to slip into and under the notched cut portions of fabric layers1002,1004. To facilitate this, the folding tool1306can be configured with a beveled edge1402to help it to slip into and under each of the notch-cuts of the fabric layers1002,1004. The folding tool can also be configured with holes or openings1404that can be connected with tubing or other tooling elements (not shown) for providing steam, heat, air, mixture of a mist or steam and starch, etc. to facilitate forming a well-structured, creased fold.

FIGS.15A-15Dillustrate a folding tool1306in various configurations in order to illustrate the folding and creasing of materials1002,1004according to one embodiment. As shown inFIG.15A, the folding tool1306can be moved horizontally toward the notch cut material1002,1004(as indicated by arrow1502) so that the bottom section1406of the folding tool1306slips under the materials1002,1004. The notch cut portion of the material1002,1004rides up the back edge1408to extend upward in a vertical direction as shown inFIG.15B. Steam, heat, air, water and starch mixture, etc. can be applied to the fabric through the openings1404(seeFIG.14) to help hold the material1002,1004in an upright position or impart temporary stiffness to the fabric during the operation. In alternative embodiments, air or other gases may be blown through the openings1404(FIG.14) to help lift the fabric1002,1004during this process if needed.

The folding tool1306can then be retracted horizontally away from the fabric1002,1004. After retracting, the folding tool1306, the folding tool can pivot so that the bottom of the back edge1406faces the bent fabric1002,1004. The folding tool can then be tilted or rotated toward the fabric1002,1004(counterclockwise as indicated by arrow1504inFIG.15C) to bend the fabric1002,1004back onto itself, finally pressing the fabric1002,1004onto itself as shown inFIG.15D. In alternative embodiments, steam, starch, size, etc. can be applied to the fabric1002,1004through openings1404(FIG.14) as desired.

After this process has been performed, the folding tool can be removed from the fabric1002,1004. The fabric1002,1004may then have a creased shape as shown inFIG.16, wherein the notch-cut portion of the fabric extends upward on its own. At this point, according to one embodiment, an applicator tool1602can be used to apply adhesive1604to the fabric1002,1004at a location adjacent to the crease as shown inFIG.16. This is according to one exemplary embodiment, as other affixing means may be employed, such as for example applying a double-sided tape heat treatable film, sewing, etc.

In alternative embodiments, the application of adhesive1604using the applicator tool1602may occur just before or during the process of folding of the fabric1002/1004with the folding tool1308. For example, in one embodiment, the adhesive1604can be applied at the stage shown inFIG.15B or15C, without first forming a crease.

With reference now toFIG.17, the folding tool1306can be used to press the notch cut portion of material1002,1004down onto the adhesive, tape, etc.1604. The movement of the folding tool1306may be similar to that described above with reference toFIGS.15C and15D. In some embodiments, the folding tool1308may apply heat, steam and pressure to help activate the applied adhesive and form the hem.

FIGS.18A-18D and19show a process for folding a hem according to alternative embodiments.FIG.18Ashows a folding tool1802according to an alternate embodiment. The folding tool1802has a hinge1804joining a bottom portion1806and back edge1808. The hinge1804can be a spring hinge or could be a mechanically operated and actuated hinge, or some other type of hinge. As with the previously described embodiments, the folding tool1802can be moved horizontally to slip under the notch cut portion of the fabric1002,1004. This can cause the fabric to fold up the back edge1808of the folding tool1802as shown inFIG.18B.

Because the tooling1802has a hinged connection1804, the back edge1807of the tooling can be bent over to press the sections of the fabric layers1002,1004down upon themselves as shown inFIGS.18C and18D. With reference toFIG.19, the folding tool1802can be released and an adhesive, tape, etc.1604applied as previously described and the hinged back edge of the folding tool pressed back down upon to press the fabric down upon the adhesive, tape, etc.1902. In an alternative embodiment, rather than using a bonding agent1902, the hem can be affixed other methods such as sewing.

The above-described folding tool1802can be configured in different shapes and sizes to accommodate various hem patterns. For instance, folding tools may come in various lengths to accommodate different sizes of notch cuts. In addition, it may be desirable to form cutting tools with unique shapes to accommodate non-linear cut shapes. With reference toFIG.20, a tool2002may be configured with a back edge2004that is curved to accommodate folding a curbed hem. Although the tool2002is shown as having a concave back edge2004, the tool2002could also be formed with a convex back edge2004that curves in a direction opposite that shown inFIG.2, such as for folding a hem of a neckline of a shirt. Note that inFIG.20, the hinge804is not shown.

FIG.21shows a top-down view of two portions of fabrics1002,1004, with hems2102formed as described above. Sections2104adjacent to the hems2102are portions cut out of the fabrics1002or1004. Again, the dotted line1008indicates a pattern shape and location where future manufacturing processes will be performed. With reference toFIG.22, a liquid adhesive, adhesive tape or other fastening means2202may be applied to selected portions of the materials1002,1004. While the bonding material2202could comprise of various materials or devices such as, but not limited to adhesive, tape, etc., for purposes of clarity the material2202will simply be referred to herein as adhesive2202. InFIG.21, it can be seen that the hems2102are formed at locations where there will be an opening in the finished workpiece item (shirt in this example). The adhesive2202is located along edges of the pattern where two or more patterns are to be joined together. InFIG.22, it can be seen that the adhesive2202has been applied to only one of the fabric layers1002and1004. However, this is an example of one embodiment, and the adhesive could also be applied to both fabric layers1002,1004.

After applying the adhesive2202, the two fabric layers1002,1004can be pressed together to join the two patterns1008long the adhesive lines to form in this example a T-shirt. It should be noted that the T-shirt may still be at least partially attached to one of the fabric layers1002or1004. It should also be noted that various processes can be employed to join the two fabric layers1002,1004. The application of the adhesive2202is merely an example. The process can also include other means, such as, but not limited to applying heat or welding the two portions together, stitching, or otherwise joining the two material pieces1002,1004. The two fabric layers1002,1004can also be connected by sewing. The joined patterns can then be cut out from the material portions leaving a finished garment or other item. After the two fabric layers1002,1004have been joined together and cut out from the main piece of fabric, the finished article can be turned inside-out to have all of the seams and hems on the inside for a more appealing article or garment.

FIG.23shows an enlarged perspective view of two pieces of fabric1002,1004after they have been joined and bonded together to form a seam and cut out from the fabric web.FIG.23shows to hemmed ends and an adhesive2202forming a seam that runs perpendicular to the hem2302. As can be seen inFIG.23, the hem folds are directed outward, and the adhesive2202contacts the fabric portions1002,1004at the side opposite the hem folds2302. In alternative embodiments, multi-fold or multi-layer seams may be formed by folding the material in different ways. When the garment or other item is turned inside out as described above, the fabric will separate, and both the hem folds2302and seam formed by the adhesive2202will be concealed inside of the garment or other item.

While the above has described a process in terms of two separate material web1002,1004, the material portions could also be portions of the same, common web of material. For example, with reference toFIG.24A, the patterns1008can be arranged end to end on a common piece of material2402. The material portions can be folded over a fold line2404to join the patterns1008together. Alternatively, the material piece2402can be cut after forming the hemmed patterns1008and then the two pieces can be joined together.

Alternatively, with reference toFIG.24B, the patterns1008can be arranged side by side on a common piece of material such as a common fabric web2406. The material2406can then be folded over at line2408to join the pattern pieces1008together. In another embodiment, the material2406can be cut along line2408and the patterns2406can be joined together.

An example of a joined and cutout workpiece2502can be seen with reference toFIG.25. The material pieces may be joined together using adhesive or other joinder techniques including sewing as described above results in a seam2504.

FIG.26is a cross sectional view as seen from line26-26ofFIG.25, showing a cross section along a portion of the joined seam2504.FIG.26shows a view of the seams and hems as would be seen from the inside of the finished garment. The hem and seam are both hidden on the inside of the garment so at to not be visible at the outside of the garment.FIG.27is an end view as seen from line27-27ofFIG.26. The dashed lines2702indicate that the fold of the hem is concealed behind the material1002,1004in this end view.

Applying the adhesive2202on a side opposite the folded over portion of the hem2102provides for a cleaner design and a more visually appealing seams in the finished articles. The garment or item is preferably initially be formed with the outside inside of the garment facing outward and then flipped inside-out to allow the seams and hems to be folded toward the inside of the garment.

FIG.28is a flowchart summarizing a method2802for manufacturing a workpiece according to an embodiment. In an operation2804, a web of material is retrieved from a roll of material. The material can be a flexible material such as fabric, felt, leather, upholstery, etc. and can be a material suitable for the construction of garments, linens, accessories such as bags purses, etc. The material can be dispensed from a first roll and retrieved from another roll in such a manner that the material is suspended and conveyed directly by pulling on the item relatively flat.

A cut is formed in the material in operation2806. The cut can be configured to form a hem and can be formed as a notch shape in the material. The notch can be configured as a larger main cut, with smaller end cuts at either end of the main cut and which may be formed at an angle of substantially 90 degrees relative to the main cut. The cut can be formed by various manufacturing processes, such as by laser cutting, or with use of a knife, saw, scissors, etc. The flap portion of the main cut is folded onto the material itself, to form a crease in operation2808. The folding of the fabric can include the use of steam, heat starch, size, etc. and can involve the use of automated or manual folding tooling. In operation2810, a flap portion of the cut material is affixed to a main body portion of the material to form a hem. Methods for affixing the hem portion to the main body can include the use of an adhesive, stitching, welding, sewing etc. The attachment may also include the application of heat air or chemical to a bonding agent. Then, in operation2812, after forming the hem, further additional manufacturing processes are performed to form a finished item. This further forming can include seaming processes to join the material to another item of material. The further processing can also include joining an edge of the material to itself such as by seaming to form a finished workpiece or intermediary workpiece.

Forming the hem prior to performing other later manufacturing processes advantageously allows the hemming process to be performed while the material is flat rather than after the material has been formed into a three-dimensional workpiece such as a garment. This greatly facilitates automating the hemming process by simplifying the environment in which it is performed and minimizing the physical manipulation required during the hemming process.

FIG.29is a flowchart illustrating a method2900for manufacturing an item according to another embodiment. In operation2904, first and second material portions are placed on, laid on or otherwise supported by a flat surface. This allows the material pieces to be held flat while also being relaxed and not under tension. The material can be fabric, upholstery, leather, vinyl or some other similar material. The flat surface could be a conveyor belt, workstation, table, etc.

In operation2906, a notch is then cut into at least one of the material portions, the notch being configured to define a hem. In some embodiments notches can be formed on both material portions. In some embodiments, several notches can be formed in each material portion. In some embodiments, the material pieces are intended for forming a garment, and the notches are at locations which will be open portions of the garment such as, but not limited to sleeve openings pant leg openings shirt bottom or neck openings etc.

In operation2908, the notched portion is then folded back and attached to the main body of the material portion to form a. The folding back of the notched portion can include creasing pressing, steaming, starching, sizing etc. The attachment of the notched portion to the main body of the material portion can be achieved by applying an adhesive or tape, sewing, welding or some other suitable attachment means.

In operation2910, after the hem has been formed, the first and second material portions are joined together to form a workpiece1910. The workpiece can be a finished workpiece such as a garment in one embodiment. In another embodiment, the workpiece can be an intermediate workpiece intended to be connected with other workpieces to form a finished product. The joining of the first and second material portions can be performed by application of an adhesive or tape, welding, sewing, etc. In one embodiment, the first and second material portions can be separate material portions. In one embodiment, the first and second material portions can be separate webs of material such as fabric fed from rollers. In one embodiment the first and second material portions can be portions of a common material piece that can be folded over to connect the two material portions or which can be cut into two separate material portions before joining the two material portions.

While various embodiments have been described above, it should be understood that they have been presented by way of example only and not limitation. Other embodiments falling within the scope of the invention may also become apparent to those skilled in the art. Thus, the breadth and scope of the invention should not be limited by any of the above-described exemplary embodiments but should be defined only in accordance with the following claims and their equivalents.