Patent ID: 12194135

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

In today's image conscious society, people are continually looking for a product that can improve the visual appearance of their skin. Often times, aged skin, uneven skin tone, or skin damaged by environmental factors such as UV light, chronic sun exposure, environmental pollutants, chemicals, disease pathologies, or smoking, is associated with unattractive skin. Previous attempts to improve the visual appearance of skin has been shown to have various drawbacks such as skin irritation and prolonged recovery periods.

The present invention is an effective alternative to the use of compositions and ingredients currently used to treat aged skin, environmentally-damaged skin, uneven skin tone, and other skin conditions. In one non-limiting embodiment, the compositions of the present invention can be used to treat irritation of the skin and to improve the skin's visual appearance, physiological functions, clinical properties, or biophysical properties by providing a composition of the present invention to an area of the skin that needs such treatment. As noted throughout this specification, the compositions can include any one ofNymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract,Stenocarpus sinuatusextract,Alphitonia excelsaextract,Eucalyptus coolabahextract,Plumeria albaextract,Cocos nuciferaextract, orTamarindus indicaextract, or any combination of such extracts. These and other non-limiting aspects of the present invention are described in further detail below.

A. Extracts

Nymphaea gigantea, also known as the giant water lily, can be found in the tropical and subtropical regions of Australia.Nymphaea giganteahas large (up to 25 cm) blue-white flowers that emerge from the water and large circular leaves that grow up to 75 cm in diameter. This plant also produces seeds.

Syzygium moorei, also known as the rose apple, coolamon, robby, durobby, and watermelon tree, is a tree that can be found in the sub tropical regions of Australia. It has green foliage and can produce flowers and fruit on mature stems and woody trunks. Seeds can also be produced by this tree.

Cupaniopsis anachardiodes, also known as tuckeroo, carrot wood, cashew leaf cupania, brush deal, cupania tree, cupaniopsis, yowarro, orCupaniopsis, is a small tree that can be found in Australia, Indonesia, and New Guinea. It has green foliage and can produce greenish-yellow flowers which are followed by fruit and orange seed pods with seeds.

Archidendron hendersonii, also known as white lace flower or tulip siris, is a tree that can be found in the coastal regions of New South Wales and Queensland Australia. It has green foliage and can produce fluffy creamy-white flowers and woody orange seed pods that have black seeds.

Tristaniopsis laurina, also known as the water gum or Kanooka tree, is a tree that has a smooth, creamy-brown trunk and green foliage. It can produce yellow flowers. It can be found on the eastern coastline of Australia.

Brachychiton acerifolius, also known as the flame tree or illiawarra flame tree, can be found in the subtropical regions on the east coast of Australia. Its has green foliage and can produce bright red bell-shaped flowers. It can also produce yellow seeds and pod-like fruits that can reach 10 cm in length.

Stenocarpus sinuatus, also known as the Queensland Firewheel tree, is a tree that can be found in the New South Wales and Queensland regions of Australia. It is an evergreen tree that can produce red wagon wheel shaped flowers. It also produces follicle shaped fruit that can reach up to 10 cm in length. Inside the fruit are thin seeds.

Alphitonia excelsa, also known as the Red Ash or Soap Tree, is a tree that can be found in the New South Wales, Queensland, and Northern Territory regions of Australia. It has green foliage and can produce silvery fine flower buds which are followed by purplish-black fruits having a red pulp and seeds.

Eucalyptus coolabah, also known as collibah orcoolabah, is aeucalyptustree that can be found in the Northern Territory and New South Wales regions of Australia. It has elongated greenish blue foliage and can produce seed pods that include seeds.

Plumeria alba, also known as White Frangipani or Nosegay Tree, is a tree that can be found throughout Australia. It is a tree that has green foliage and can produce a white and yellow flower. It has green palm leaves and can produce flowers and coconuts.

Cocos nucifera, also known as the Coconut Palm, is a palm tree that can be found throughout the tropical regions of the world. It has green palm leaves and can produce flowers and coconuts.

Tamarindus indica, also known as Tamarind, is a tree that can be found throughout the tropical regions of the world. It has green foliage and can produce yellow flowers and reddish brown pods with seeds.

The inventors have discovered that each of the extracts identified above have several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin. Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities include inhibition of inflammatory mediators, which can reduce skin erythema, skin redness, or skin irritation. Compositions comprising the extracts can also be used to alleviate pain associated with sensitive or inflamed skin. The extracts can be obtained from any and all parts of the plant (e.g., leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, seeds, seed pods, the entire plant, etc.). In particular aspects, the extract is fromNymphaea giganteaflower,Syzygium mooreileaf,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesleaf,Archidendron hendersoniiflower,Tristaniopsis laurinaleaf,Brachychiton acerifoliusleaf,Stenocarpus sinuatusleaf,Alphitonia excelsaleaf,Eucalyptus coolabahleaf,Plumeria albaflower,Cocos nuciferamilk, orTamarindus indicaleaf extract. The extract can be aqueous. The extract can include butylene glycol. Butylene glycol can be used as a solvent to prepare the extract.

A person of ordinary skill in the art would be able to isolate extracts from each of the above mentioned plants from parts of these plant by using any suitable method known in the art. In one non-limiting example, such plants (or any part of the plants—e.g., leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, seeds, seed pods, the entire plant, etc.) can be disrupted by mechanical means which results in a puree. The puree is then processed to be substantially free of impurities or undesired solids. The puree can then be poured into a shallow vessel and quickly exposed to low temperature, i.e., flash frozen, for example at −20° C. or lower, preferably under a vacuum for removal of water content (lyophilization). The resultant extract can then be used in the compositions of the present invention.

In other aspects, aqueous, alcoholic, or oil based extraction techniques, or combinations thereof, can be used on the whole plant or any part thereof of (e.g., leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, fruit, seeds, seed pods, whole plant, etc.) to produce an extract. In such a process, the desired part of the plant or the whole plant is crushed up (e.g., blender) and then subjected to a desired solvent (e.g., water, alcohol, water/alcohol, or oil based solvents) to obtain the desired extract. The extract can then be stored in liquid form, lyophilized, or subject to further processing techniques (e.g., heating, cooling, etc.). Extraction processes are well-known to those having ordinary skill in the extract field (e.g., maceration, infusion, percolation, digestion, decoction, hot continuous extraction, aqueous-alcoholic extract, counter current extract, microwave assisted extraction, ultrasound extraction, supercritical fluid extracts, phytonic extract (e.g., with hydro-flouro-carbon solvents), etc. In particular embodiments, butylene glycol extraction works well (see Examples).

B. Compositions of the Present Invention

1. Combinations and Amounts of Ingredients

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention can include any one ofNymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract,Stenocarpus sinuatusextract,Alphitonia excelsaextract,Eucalyptus coolabahextract,Plumeria albaextract,Cocos nuciferaextract, orTamarindus indicaextract, or any combination of such extracts. The compositions can also include additional ingredients described throughout this specification. The concentrations of the plant extracts and/or additional ingredients can vary. In non-limiting embodiments, for example, the compositions can include in their final form, for example, at least about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%, 0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%, 0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% or more, or any range or integer derivable therein, of at least one of the plant extracts identified in this specification or any combination thereof or additional ingredients. In non-limiting aspects, the percentage of such ingredients can be calculated by weight or volume of the total weight of the compositions. The concentrations can vary depending on the desired effect of the compositions or on the product into which the compositions are incorporated.

2. Composition Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can be formulated into all types of vehicles. Non-limiting examples of suitable vehicles include emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water, water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), creams, lotions, solutions (both aqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks and powders), gels, ointments, pastes, milks, liquids, aerosols, solid forms, or eye jellies. Variations and other appropriate vehicles will be apparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate for use in the present invention. In certain aspects, the concentrations and combinations of the ingredients can be selected in such a way that the combinations are chemically compatible and do not form complexes which precipitate from the finished product.

It is also contemplated that the plant extracts and additional ingredients identified throughout this specification can be encapsulated for delivery to a target area such as skin. Non-limiting examples of encapsulation techniques include the use of liposomes, vesicles, and/or nanoparticles (e.g., biodegradable and non-biodegradable colloidal particles comprising polymeric materials in which the ingredient is trapped, encapsulated, and/or absorbed—examples include nanospheres and nanocapsules) that can be used as delivery vehicles to deliver such ingredients to skin (see, e.g., U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,387,398; 6,203,802; 5,411,744; Kreuter 1988).

Also contemplated are pharmaceutically-acceptable or pharmacologically-acceptable compositions. The phrase “pharmaceutically-acceptable” or “pharmacologically-acceptable” includes compositions that do not produce an allergic or similar untoward reaction when administered to a human. Typically, such compositions are prepared either as topical compositions, liquid solutions or suspensions, solid forms suitable for solution in, or suspension in, liquid prior to use can also be prepared. Routes of administration can vary with the location and nature of the condition to be treated, and include, e.g., topical, inhalation, intradermal, transdermal, parenteral, intravenous, intramuscular, intranasal, subcutaneous, percutaneous, intratracheal, intraperitoneal, intratumoral, perfusion, lavage, direct injection (e.g., an injectable solution), and oral administration and formulation (e.g., tablets, capsules, etc.).

3. Products

The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated into products. Non-limiting examples of products include cosmetic products, food-based products (e.g., fortified water, energy drinks, nutritional drinks, vitamins, supplements, solid foods), pharmaceutical products, etc. By way of example only, non-limiting cosmetic products include sunscreen products, sunless skin tanning products, hair products (e.g., shampoos, conditioners, colorants, dyes, bleaches, straighteners, and permanent wave products), fingernail products, moisturizing creams, skin creams and lotions, softeners, day lotions, gels, ointments, foundations, night creams, lipsticks and lip balms, cleansers, toners, masks, deodorants, antiperspirants, exfoliating compositions, shaving-related products (e.g., creams, “bracers” and aftershaves), pre-moistened wipes and washcloths, tanning lotions, bath products such as oils, foot care products such as powders and sprays, skin colorant and make-up products such as foundations, blushes, rouges eye shadows and lines, lip colors and mascaras, baby products (e.g., baby lotions, oils, shampoos, powders and wet wipes), and skin or facial peel products. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated as leave-on or rinse-off products.

4. Additional Ingredients

Compositions of the present invention can include additional ingredients. Non-limiting examples of additional ingredients include cosmetic ingredients (both active and non-active) and pharmaceutical ingredients (both active and non-active).

a. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2008), 12thEdition, describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredients that can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples of these ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural), dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titanium dioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no. 17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellow no. 11), adsorbents, emulsifiers, stabilizers, lubricants, solvents, moisturizers (including, e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agents that affect the natural moisturization mechanisms of the skin), water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such as paraaminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g., A, B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g., zinc, calcium and selenium), anti-irritants (e.g., steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories), botanical extracts (e.g., aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract,Ginkgo biloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants (e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben and propylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid), absorbents (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch, oat starch, cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching and lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate), humectants (e.g., glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, sorbitol, urea, and manitol), exfoliants (e.g., alpha-hydroxyacids, and beta-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid; and salts thereof) waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), skin conditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin, bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate), thickening agents (e.g., substances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition such as carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums), and silicone containing compounds (e.g., silicone oils and polyorganosiloxanes). The following provides specific non-limiting examples of some of the additional ingredients that can be used with the compositions of the present invention.

i. Sunscreen Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with the compositions of the present invention include chemical and physical sunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be used include para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA, amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate, cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyl diisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethyl methoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.), anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethane derivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloy trioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone, ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonate polysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bis benzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyiphenol, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc, petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide). Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorption properties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of 2, 3, 4, 56, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90 or more, or any integer or derivative therein.

ii. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with the compositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitin sulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerol polymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid, hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol, maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15 butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid, potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA, sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates copolymer, alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloe barbadensis gel,Althea officinalisextract, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, aluminum stearate, apricot (Prunus armeniaca) kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate,Arnica montanaextract, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, aspartic acid, avocado (Persea gratissima) oil, barium sulfate, barrier sphingolipids, butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, BHT, birch (Betula alba) bark extract, borage (Borago officinalis) extract, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, butcherbroom (Ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol,Calendula officinalisextract,Calendula officinalisoil, candelilla (Euphorbia cerifera) wax, canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon (Elettaria cardamomum) oil, carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) wax, carrageenan (Chondrus crispus), carrot (Daucus carota sativa) oil, castor (Ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20, ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (Salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa (Theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (Zea mays) oil, fatty acids, decyl oleate, dextrin, diazolidinyl urea, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, DMDM hydantoin, DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate,Eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, tructose, gelatin,Geranium maculatumoil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid, glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape (Vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (Corylus americana) nut oil, hazel (Corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, honey, hyaluronic acid, hybrid safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated tallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, imidazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid, isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (Jasminum officinale) oil, jojoba (Buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (Aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate, lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (Citrus medica limonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid,Macadamia ternifolianut oil, magnesium stearate, magnesium sulfate, maltitol, matricaria (Chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucose sesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, microcrystalline wax, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierella oil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl palmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (Olea europaea) oil, orange (citrusAurantium dulcis) oil, palm (Elaeis guineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, paraffin, PCA, peach (Prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (Arachis hypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate, pentadecalactone, peppermint (Mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum, phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium sorbate, potassium stearate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE, PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, quaternium-15, quaternium-18 hectorite, quaternium-22, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (Oryza sativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil, safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (Salvia officinalis) oil, salicylic acid, sandalwood (Santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame (Sesamum indicum) oil, shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodium palmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, sodium stearate, soluble collagen, sorbic acid, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean (Glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids, squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxy dimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond (Prunusamygdalusdulcis) oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate, triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat (Triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang (Cananga odorata) oil.

iii. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with the compositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbic acid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butyl hydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCI, diamylhydroquinone, di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate, ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters of ascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters, hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanical anti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propyl gallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite, sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxide dismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol, thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopheryl succinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

iv. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present invention can include a structuring agent. Structuring agents, in certain aspects, assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition to contribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuring agents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limiting examples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

v. Emulsifiers

In some non-limiting aspects, the compositions can include one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacial tension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of an emulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, and zwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include esters of glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, esters of sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers, esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

vi. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include any member of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone is made up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groups attached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, side groups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a wide variety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel to solids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of the present invention include those described in this specification or those known to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examples include silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, and solids. In preferred aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes a silicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples of polyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxane materials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistency and application characteristics depending upon the intended application (e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A “volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat of vaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include: cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid, Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207 (Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e. dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g., dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow Corning Fluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Michigan Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) as cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylated linear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units, respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be used in the context of the present invention include those available from General Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWS Silicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Michigan.

vii. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, and other plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets between the plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to those of skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extraction by using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing). When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate (i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless, but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils are insoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils (vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristics found in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160° to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil is found. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose or peppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oils that can be used in the context of the present invention include sesame oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sage oil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berries oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedar oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, or ylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art are also contemplated as being useful within the context of the present invention.

viii. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, include substances that can increase the viscosity of a composition. Thickeners include those that can increase the viscosity of a composition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the active ingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase the stability of the compositions of the present invention.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be used in the context of the present invention include carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers include crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445; 4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol (e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers include cationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionic polyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranched polymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substituted cellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer is hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with a C10-C30straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an ether linkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C10-C30straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the present invention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

b. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical ingredients are also contemplated as being useful with the emulsion compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of pharmaceutical ingredients include anti-acne agents, agents used to treat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-cancer actives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants, antipruritics, antipsoriatic agents, antiseborrheic agents, biologically active proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents, cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rash treatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growth retardants including DFMO and its salts and analogs, hemostatics, kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, cold sore treatment agents, dental and periodontal treatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skin protectant/barrier agents, steroids including hormones and corticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents, sunscreens, transdermal actives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, wound treatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.

C. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of the present invention. For instance, a composition of the present invention can be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers can include a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, a dispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, a compartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pans that can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers such as injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which the dispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packages are retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on its surface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of a composition. In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal, laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of the composition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, foam, an aerosol, a liquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump, or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for using the kit and/or compositions. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply, use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limiting aspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill in the art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which follow represent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in the practice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, in light of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can be made in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain a like or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Example 1

An aqueous extract ofNymphaea giganteaflower in butylene glycol was used to obtain the data in Table I. Butylene glycol was used as the extraction solvent.

TABLE IAOElastaseExtractAssayAssayTNF-α AssayMMP1 AssayNymphaea gigantea——exhibited inhibition ofexhibited inhibition offlower extract*TNF-α activityMMP1 activity*Extract was obtained from Southern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd., Knockrow, New South Wales (Australia).

Antioxidant (AO) assay: Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (Ann Arbor, Michigan USA) was used as an in vitro bioassay to measure the total anti-oxidant capacity of the extracts identified in Table 1. The protocol was followed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied on antioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ by metmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to prevent ABTS oxidation was compared with that Trolox, a water-soluble tocopherol analogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent. Extracts that have antioxidant capabilities can protect a target (e.g., skin, food, etc.) from oxidative damage from free-radicals, reactive oxygen species, UV radiation, etc.

Elastase Assay: EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit #E-12056) from Molecular Probes (Eugene, Oregon USA) was used as an in vitro enzyme inhibition assay for measuring inhibition of elastase activity for the extracts identified in Table 1. The EnzChek kit contains soluble bovine neck ligament elastin that has been labeled with dye such that the conjugate's fluorescence is quenched. The non-fluorescent substrate can be digested by elastase or other proteases to yield highly fluorescent fragments. The resulting increase in fluorescence can be monitored with a fluorescence microplate reader. Digestion products from the elastin substrate have absorption maxima at ˜505 nm and fluorescence emission maxima at ˜515 nm. The peptide, chloromethyl ketone, is used as a selective, collective inhibitor of elastase when utilizing the EnzChek Elastase Assay Kit for screening for elastase inhibitors. Extracts that have the ability to inhibit elastase activity can increase (or prevent the loss of) elastin present in the skin. This can firm skin, tone skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, etc.

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay: The anti-irritant capability of the extracts identified in Table 1 were evaluated by measuring inhibition of TNF-α release by primary human keratinocytes in response to stress. Primary human keratinocytes were induced to release TNF-α, a pleiotropic cytokine that plays a central role in inflammation, in the presence or absence of the extract. TNF-α secretion was quantified using R&D Systems (Minneapolis, Minnesota USA) TNF-α Enzyme-linked Immunosorbant Assay #DTA00C according to manufacturer instructions. This sandwich immunoassay technique used color development to quantify the amount of TNF-α present in the cellular supernatant. Color developed in proportion to the amount of TNF-α and was detected at 450 nm using a microplate reader. Data were calculated as inhibition of the untreated controls. Negative values demonstrated the ability of test ingredients to inhibit the production of TNF-α compared to controls. Extracts that have the ability to inhibit TNF-α activity can reduce or prevent the deleterious effects caused by the inflammatory pathway (e.g., reduce skin inflammation, treat or prevent inflammatory diseases, etc.).

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP1) Assay: Collagen, an extracellular matrix protein produced in healthy skin, is degraded by the enzyme collagenase. The Invitrogen (Carlsbad, California USA) EnzChek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay Kit #E-12055 was used to quantify the capability of the extracts identified in Table 1 to inhibit the activity of MMP1 (Collagenase). The protocol was followed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay contained a soluble gelatin substrate labeled with a fluorescent dye such that the conjugate's fluorescence was quenched. Once cleaved by collagenase or other proteases, the substrate yielded highly fluorescent fragments measured using a microplate reader. The non-fluorescent substrate was incubated with MMP1 in the presence or absence of the extract. The ability of the extracts to prevent substrate cleavage was quantified and compared to positive controls. Extracts that have the ability to inhibit MMP1 activity can increase (or prevent the loss of) collagen present in the skin. This can firm skin, tone skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, etc.

Example 2

An aqueous extract ofTristaniopsis laurinaleaf in butylene glycol was used to obtain the data in Table II. Butylene glycol was used as the extraction solvent.

TABLE II*AOElastaseExtractAssayAssayTNF-α AssayMMP1 AssayTristaniopsis laurina—exhibited inhibition ofexhibited inhibition of—leaf extract**elastase activityTNF-α activity*Data obtained by using the same assays described in Example 1.**Extract was obtained from Southern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd., Knockrow, New South Wales (Australia).

Example 3

A blend of aqueous extracts ofCupaniopsis anacardiodesleaf,Syzygium mooreiileaf, andArchidendron hendersoniiflower in butylene glycol were used to obtain the data in Table III. Butylene glycol was used as the extraction solvent.

TABLE III*AOElastaseExtractAssayAssayTNF-α AssayMMP1 AssayBlend ofCupaniopsisexhibitedexhibitedexhibitedexhibitedanacardiodesleaf,Syzygiumantioxidantinhibition ofinhibition ofinhibition ofmooreiileaf, andArchidendronactivityelastaseTNF-αMMP1hendersoniiflower extracts**activityactivityactivity*Data obtained by using the same assays described in Example 1.**Blend was obtained from Southern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd., Knockrow, New South Wales (Australia).

Example 4

A blend of aqueous extracts ofNymphaea giganteaflower,Tristaniopsis laurinaleaf, andEucalyptus coolabahleaf in butylene glycol were used to obtain the data in Table IV.

TABLE IV*AOElastaseExtractAssayAssayTNF-α AssayMMP1 AssayBlend ofNymphaea gigantea—exhibitedexhibitedexhibitedflower,Tristaniopsis laurinaleaf,inhibition ofinhibition ofinhibition ofandEucalyptus coolabahleafelastase activityTNF-α activityMMP1 activityextracts*** Data obtained by using the same assays described in Example 1.**Blend was obtained from Southern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd., Knockrow, New South Wales (Australia).

Example 5

A blend of aqueous extracts ofPlumeria albaflower,Cocos nuciferamilk, andTamarindus indicialeaf extracts in butylene glycol were used to obtain the data in Table V. Butylene glycol was used as the extraction solvent.

TABLE V*AOElastaseExtractAssayAssayTNF-α AssayMMP1 AssayBlend ofPlumeria alba—exhibitedexhibitedexhibitedflower,Cocos nuciferamilk,inhibition ofinhibition ofinhibition ofandTamarindus indicialeafelastase activityTNF-α activityMMP1 activityextracts*** Data obtained by using the same assays described in Example 1.**Blend was obtained from Southern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd., Knockrow, New South Wales (Australia).

Example 6

A blend of aqueous extracts ofBrachychiton acerifoliusleaf,Stenocarpus sinuatusleaf, andAlphitonia excelsaleaf extracts in butylene glycol were used to obtain the data in Table VI. Butylene glycol was used as the extraction solvent.

TABLE VI*AOElastaseExtractAssayAssayTNF-α AssayMMP1 AssayBrachychiton acerifoliusleaf,——exhibitedexhibitedStenocarpus sinuatusleaf, andinhibition ofinhibition ofAlphitonia excelsaleafTNF-α activityMMP1 activityextracts*** Data obtained by using the same assays described in Example 1.**Blend was obtained from Southern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd., Knockrow, New South Wales (Australia).

Example 7

Each extract listed in Table VII is an aqueous extract in butylene glycol. Butylene glycol was used as the extraction solvent. The data in Table VII was obtained by using the same assays described in Example 1. Each extract was obtained from Southern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd., Knockrow, New South Wales (Australia).

TABLE VIIExtractAO AssayElastase AssayTNF-α AssayMMP1 AssaySyzygium mooreiexhibited some—exhibited—leafantioxidantinhibition ofactivityTNF-α activityCupaniopsisexhibitedexhibited inhibitionexhibitedexhibitedanacardioidesleafantioxidantof elastase activityinhibition ofinhibition ofactivityTNF-α activityMMP1 activityArchidendron—exhibited someexhibited—hendersoniiflowerinhibition ofinhibition ofelastase activityTNF-α activityEucalyptus—exhibited inhibitionexhibited—coolabahleafof elastase activityinhibition ofTNF-α activityBrachychiton——exhibitedexhibitedacerifoliusleafinhibition ofinhibition ofTNF-α activityMMP1 activityStenocarpus——exhibited—sinuatusleafinhibition ofTNF-α activityAlphitonia excelsa——exhibited—leafinhibition ofTNF-α activityPlumeria alba—exhibited someexhibited—flowerinhibition ofinhibition ofelastase activityTNF-α activityCocos nucifera—exhibited inhibitionexhibitedexhibitedmilkof elastase activityinhibition ofinhibition ofTNF-α activityMMP1 activityTamarindus indica—exhibited inhibitionexhibitedexhibitedleafof elastase activityinhibition ofinhibition ofTNF-α activityMMP1 activity

Example 8

Tables VIII and IX describe generic skin testing formulations in which a skin active ingredient can be incorporated into to determine the types of skin benefits that can be attributed to the skin active ingredient. These formulations are prepared in such a manner that any resulting skin benefit from topical application of the formula to skin can be directly attributed to the skin active ingredient being tested. In the context of the present invention, the skin active ingredient that can be tested can be any of the extracts identified in Tables I-V and any combination thereof. Further, any portion of the plant can be used for testing (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, whole plant etc.). It should be recognized that other standard testing vehicles can also be used to determine the skin benefit properties of extracts obtained from the plant extracts and that the following formulations are non-limiting testing vehicles.

TABLE VIII*Ingredient% Concentration (by weight)Phase AWater84.80Xanthum gum0.1M-paraben0.15P-paraben0.1Citric acid0.1Phase BCetyl alcohol4.0Glyceryl stearate + PEG 1004.0Octyl palmitate4.0Dimethicone1.0Tocopheryl acetate0.2Phase C**Skin Active Ingredient2.0TOTAL100*Procedure for making composition: Sprinkle Xanthum gum in water and mix for 10 min. Subsequently, add all B to separate beaker and heat to 70-75° C. Mix ingredients in phase A and heat to 70-75° C. Add all items in phase phases A and B at 70-75° C. Continue mixing and allow composition to cool to 30° C. Subsequently, add phase C ingredient while mixing.**The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified the amount of water.

TABLE IX*Ingredient% Concentration (by weight)Phase AWater78.6M-paraben0.2P-paraben0.1Na2 EDTA0.1Shea butter4.5Petrolatum4.5Glycerin4.0Propylene Glycol2.0Finsolve TN2.0Phase BSepigel 3052.0Phase C**Skin Active Ingredient2.0TOTAL100* Add ingredients in phase A to beaker and heat to 70-75° C. while mixing. Subsequently, add the phase B ingredient with phase A and cool to 30° C. with mixing. Subsequently, add phase C ingredient while mixing.**The plant extracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water.

The formulations represented in Table X-XV are non-limiting examples of the types of formulations that can be prepared in the context of the present invention. Any standard method can be used to prepare such formulations. For instance, simple mixing of the ingredients in a beaker can be used. One should mix such ingredients and add heat as necessary to obtain a homogenous composition.

Table X includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table X composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table X can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.).

TABLE XIngredient% Concentration (by weight)Waterq.s.Skin active ingredient*0.1% to 10%Glycerin3 to 40%Butylene glycol0.0001 to 10%Propylene glycol0.0001 to 10%Phenoxyethanol0.0001 to 10%Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10%Steareth-200.0001 to 10%Chlorhexidine Diglunonate0.0001 to 10%Potasium Sorbate0.0001 to 10%Preservative**0.0001 to 2%TOTAL100*Skin active ingredient can be any of the individual plant extracts identified throughout the specification or any combination of such extracts (e.g.,Nymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract,Stenocarpus sinuatusextract,Alphitonia excelsaextract,Eucalyptus coolabahextract,Plumeria albaextract,Cocos nuciferaextract, orTamarindus indicaextract, or any combination of such extracts). Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, whole plant etc.). In particular embodiments, the extract can beNymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract, orStenocarpus sinuatusextract, or any combination of such extracts. In even more particular aspects, the extract can be aNymphaea giganteaextract.**Any preservative can be used identified in the specification or those known in the art.

Table XI includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table XI composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table XI can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.).

TABLE XIIngredient% Concentration (by weight)Waterq.s.Skin active ingredient*0.1% to 10%Dimethicone0.0001 to 10%Triethanolamine0.0001 to 10%Phenonip0.0001 to 10%Betaine0.0001 to 10%Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10%Tocopheryl acetate0.0001 to 10%Prodew 4000.0001 to 10%Preservative**0.0001 to 2%TOTAL100*Skin active ingredient can be any of the individual plant extracts identified throughout the specification or any combination of such extracts (e.g.,Nymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract,Stenocarpus sinuatusextract,Alphitonia excelsaextract,Eucalyptus coolabahextract,Plumeria albaextract,Cocos nuciferaextract, orTamarindus indicaextract, or any combination of such extracts). Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, whole plant etc.). In particular embodiments, the extract can beNymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract, orStenocarpus sinuatusextract, or any combination of such extracts. In even more particular aspects, the extract can be aNymphaea giganteaextract.**Any preservative can be used identified in the specification or those known in the art.

Table XII includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table XII composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table XII can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table XII composition can be a moisturizer.

TABLE XIIIngredient% Concentration (by weight)Waterq.s.Skin active ingredient*0.1% to 10%Glycerin0.0001 to 10%Pentylene Glycol0.0001 to 10%Capryl Glycol0.0001 to 10%Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10%Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride0.0001 to 10%Lipex 205 (Shea Butter)0.0001 to 10%Squalane0.0001 to 10%Cetyl Alcohol0.0001 to 10%Dimethicone0.0001 to 10%Ceramide II0.0001 to 10%Stearic Acid0.0001 to 10%Super Sterol Ester0.0001 to 10%Arlacel 1650.0001 to 10%Simulgel 6000.0001 to 10%TOTAL100*Skin active ingredient can be any of the individual plant extracts identified throughout the specification or any combination of such extracts (e.g.,Nymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract,Stenocarpus sinuatusextract,Alphitonia excelsaextract,Eucalyptus coolabahextract,Plumeria albaextract,Cocos nuciferaextract, orTamarindus indicaextract, or any combination of such extracts). Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, whole plant etc.). In particular embodiments, the extract can beNymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract, orStenocarpus sinuatusextract, or any combination of such extracts. In even more particular aspects, the extract can be aNymphaea giganteaextract.

Table XIII includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table XIII composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table XIII can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table XIII composition can be a moisturizer.

TABLE XIIIIngredient% Concentration (by weight)Waterq.s.Skin active ingredient*0.1% to 10%Glycerin0.0001 to 10%Pentylene Glycol0.0001 to 10%Capryl Glycol0.0001 to 10%Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10%Petrolatum0.0001 to 10%Squalane0.0001 to 10%Cetyl Alcohol0.0001 to 10%Arlacel 1650.0001 to 10%Dimethicone0.0001 to 10%Simulgel 6000.0001 to 10%TOTAL100*Skin active ingredient can be any of the individual plant extracts identified throughout the specification or any combination of such extracts (e.g.,Nymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract,Stenocarpus sinuatusextract,Alphitonia excelsaextract,Eucalyptus coolabahextract,Plumeria albaextract,Cocos nuciferaextract, orTamarindus indicaextract, or any combination of such extracts). Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, whole plant etc.). In particular embodiments, the extract can beNymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract, orStenocarpus sinuatusextract, or any combination of such extracts. In even more particular aspects, the extract can be aNymphaea giganteaextract.

Table XIV includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g., o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table XIV composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table XIV can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table XIV composition can be a sunscreen lotion.

TABLE XIVIngredient% Concentration (by weight)Waterq.s.Skin active ingredient*0.1% to 10%Xanthan Gum0.0001 to 10%Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10%Pentylene Glycol0.0001 to 10%Capryl Glycol0.0001 to 10%Pemulen TR-10.0001 to 10%Triethanolamine0.0001 to 10%PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer0.0001 to 10%Finsolv TN10 to 30%Sorbitan Isostearate0.0001 to 10%Sunscreen Ingredient**2 to 25%TOTAL100*Skin active ingredient can be any of the individual plant extracts identified throughout the specification or anySyzygium mooreiextract, Cupaniopsis combination of such extracts (e.g.,Nymphaea giganteaextract, anacardioides extract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract,Stenocarpus sinuatusextract,Alphitonia excelsaextract,Eucalyptus coolabahextract,Plumeria albaextract,Cocos nuciferaextract, orTamarindus indicaextract, or any combination of such extracts). Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, can beNymphaea giganteaextract, Syzygium seed pod, whole plant etc.). In particular embodiments, the extract moorei extract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract, orStenocarpus sinuatusextract, or any combination of such extracts. In even more particular aspects, the extract can be aNymphaea giganteaextract.**Sunscreen ingredient can be any sunscreen ingredient, or combination of such ingredients, identified in the specification or known to those of ordinary skill in the art. In one embodiment, the sunscreen ingredient is a combination of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Table XV includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the present invention. The additional ingredients identified throughout the specification can be included into the Table XV composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table XV can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table XV composition can be a cleanser.

TABLE XVIngredient% Concentration (by weight)Waterq.s.Skin active ingredient*0.1% to 10%Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10%Citric Acid0.0001 to 10%Pentylene Glycol0.0001 to 10%Capryl Glycol0.0001 to 10%sodium methyl cocoyl taurate10 to 30%sodium cocoamphodiacetate1 to 10%TOTAL100*Skin active ingredient can be any of the individual plant extracts identified throughout the specification or any combination of such extracts (e.g.,Nymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract,Stenocarpus sinuatusextract,Alphitonia excelsaextract,Eucalyptus coolabahextract,Plumeria albaextract,Cocos nuciferaextract, orTamarindus indicaextract, or any combination of such extracts). Any portion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, whole plant etc.). In particular embodiments, the extract can beNymphaea giganteaextract,Syzygium mooreiextract,Cupaniopsis anacardioidesextract,Archidendron hendersoniiextract,Tristaniopsis laurinaextract,Brachychiton acerifoliusextract, orStenocarpus sinuatusextract, or any combination of such extracts. In even more particular aspects, the extract can be aNymphaea giganteaextract.

Example 9

Assays that can be Used to Test Compositions

The efficacy of compositions comprising the plant extracts identified throughout the specification, or a combination of such extracts (including, for example, the formulations identified in the above Tables), can be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art. The following are non-limiting assays that can be used in the context of the present invention. It should be recognized that other testing procedures can be used, including, for example, objective and subjective procedures.

Erythema Assay: An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2% solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The area is protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patch is removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes in skin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area is treated with a composition of the present invention. Repeat measurements are taken at regular intervals to determine the formula's ability to reduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay: Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedance measurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance meter measures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skin has distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conducts electricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasing conductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (related to conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. The unit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for each testing day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also be made. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement they can equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) and temperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can be taken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 setting can be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance values of every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reported with statistical variance and significance.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay: Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can be evaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can be assessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatment using the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes in skin color in the red region. This is used to determine whether a composition is inducing irritation. The measurements can be made on each side of the face and averaged, as left and right facial values. Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. The measurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the Minolta Meter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skin smoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In one non-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C is chroma and is defined as (a2+b2)1/2.

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay: Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can be evaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinical grading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standard Kligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal with no visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with no visible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearance with some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitish appearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by two clinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay: Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. No dark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand held magnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7) even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, but slight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. No discolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discoloration and uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough to the touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture. Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented, erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm in diameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay: Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, no resistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth, slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing; and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians and averaged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay With Methods Disclosed in Packman et al. (1978): Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually by using the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, at each subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number of superficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scored and recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a number factor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for the eye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as the total wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer: Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a device that evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping a small body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. The ballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip (4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly into the skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon the properties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratum corneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer: Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strain properties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlate with skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on the predetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skin surface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can be applied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement is accurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and is expressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas: The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated using replicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubber like material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by image analysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can be objectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form the subjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer image analysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neck area, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidence lighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processing program and the are of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lines was determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method: The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using the profilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light or dragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacement of the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, and after scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis of skin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan can be repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated 3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using the stylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate average values. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic mean of all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profile height relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximum vertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rz which is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values are given as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardized prior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Value can be computed by the following equation: Ra=Standardize roughness; lm=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of the location of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay: In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of the compositions of the present invention can be evaluated by using a skin analog, such as, for example, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes, one of the cells in the skin analog, stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™, can be treated with a variety of bases containing the compositions and whitening agents of the present invention or with the base alone as a control. Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can be used as a control.

ORAC Assay: Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of the aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also be assayed by measuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients or compositions. This assay can quantify the degree and length of time it takes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygen radicals that are known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). The ORAC value of the aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art (see U.S. Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), all of which are incorporated by reference). In summary, the assay described in Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidant compounds in test materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE) fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay: An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs are extracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and disease states by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substrates include collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substrates include collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric Drug Discovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9 (AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPs using a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate (Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavage site peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide. Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, which reacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent] to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by its absorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M−1 cm−1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosed and claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undue experimentation in light of the present disclosure. While the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention have been described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparent to those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or in the sequence of steps of the method described herein without departing from the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.

REFERENCES

The following references, to the extent that they provide exemplary procedural or other details supplementary to those set forth herein, are specifically incorporated herein by reference.U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560U.S. Pat. No. 4,421,769U.S. Pat. No. 4,509,949U.S. Pat. No. 4,599,379U.S. Pat. No. 4,628,078U.S. Pat. No. 4,835,206U.S. Pat. No. 4,849,484U.S. Pat. No. 5,011,681U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445U.S. Pat. No. 5,100,660U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,744U.S. Pat. No. 6,203,802U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,398U.S. Patent Publn. 2004/0109905U.S. Patent Publn. 2005/0163880Cao et al.,Free Radic. Biol. Med.,14:303-311, 1993.CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 12thEd., 2008.CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4thEd., pp 12 and 80, 1991.Kreuter,J. Microencapsulation,5:115-127, 1988.McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents, North American Edition, 1986.Packman and Gams,J. Soc. Cos. Chem.,29:70-90, 1978.