Patent ID: 12234581

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

Some embodiments of this disclosure, illustrating all its features, will now be discussed in detail. The words “comprising,” “having,” “containing,” and “including,” and other forms thereof, are intended to be equivalent in meaning and be open-ended in that an item or items following any one of these words is not meant to be an exhaustive listing of such item or items, or meant to be limited to only the listed item or items.

It must also be noted that, the singular forms “a,” “an,” and “the” include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. Although any methods similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of embodiments of the present disclosure, the exemplary methods are now described. The disclosed embodiments are merely exemplary of the disclosure, which may be embodied in various forms.

It must be noted herein that ranges mentioned in various embodiments of the present disclosure is not limited to specified ranges therein and should be construed to also cover any range (not specifically mentioned herein) where endpoints (i.e. minimum value, maximum value) include any value that lies between any specified range mentioned herein.

Various modifications to the embodiment will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art and the generic principles herein may be applied to other embodiments. However, one of ordinary skill in the art will readily recognize that the present disclosure is not intended to be limited to the embodiments illustrated, but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and features described herein.

Definitions

Terms used throughout this application are to be construed with ordinary and typical meaning to those of ordinary skill in the art. However, Applicants desire that the following terms be given the particular definition as defined below:

The terms ENDS PER INCH or “Ends per Inch” is the popular word in the garments & textile industry. The number of yarns in the warp direction is measured by ENDS PER INCH. Normally, ends per Inch are the number of warp threads. It represents the vertical thread of the fabric. It is called the warp yarn.

The term “warp” is the set of lengthwise yarns through which the weft is woven. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end. Warp means “that which is thrown across”.

The term “reed” means a comb-like device on a loom that separates the warp yarns and also beats each succeeding filling yarn against those already woven. The space between two adjacent wires of the reed is called a dent. The fineness of the reed is calculated by the number of dents to the inch. The more dents to the inch, the finer the reed.

The term “picking” means inserting weft threads across the warp through during weaving. Picking is the second primary motion in weaving. A single pick may contain 1-24 yarns. If the number of strands per pick is more than one, it is known as multi-strand yarn/plied yarn.

The term “Airjet” or “Airjet loom” or “Airjet loom apparatus” is a shuttleless loom capable of very high speeds that use an air jet to propel the filling yarn through the shed.

The term “Rapier” or “Rapier loom” or “Rapier loom apparatus” is a shuttleless weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of warp yarns to the other side of the loom by fingerlike carriers called rapiers.

The term “plain weave”, also called “Tabby weave”, is the simplest and most common of the three basic textile weaves. The plain weave is made by passing each filling yarn over and under each warp yarn, with each row alternating, producing a high number of intersections.

The term “count” or “yarn count” refers to the thickness of yarn and is determined by its mass per unit length. It is usually measured by the number of grams per one kilometer of yarn, a unit of measure called “Tex”. However, the spinning industry tends to use English cotton count, which is determined by the number of yarn hanks (each 840 yards long) per pound of yarn, and is notated “Ne”.

The term “denier” is a direct-management type, employed internationally to measure the size of silk and man-made filaments and yarns, and derived from an earlier system for measuring silk filaments (based on the weight in drams of 1,000 yards). The number denier indicates the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of filament or filament yarn. For example, if 9,000 meters of yarn weighs 15 grams, it is a 15-denier yarn; if 9,000 meters of yarn weighs 100 grams, it is a 100-denier yarn and much coarser than the 15-denier yarn. Thus, a smaller number indicates a finer yarn.

Regenerated cellulose fiber is a class of materials manufactured by the conversion of natural cellulose to a soluble cellulosic derivative and subsequent regeneration, typically forming either a fiber (via polymer spinning) or a film (via polymer casting).

While aspects of the described woven fabric made of polyester warp yarns and cotton or cellulose fiber weft yarns or liner fiber yarns or a combination thereof (In this context, the combination means cotton fiber, cellulose fiber blended yarn, and linen fiber) and a polyester warp yarns may be implemented in any number of different systems, environments, and/or configurations, the embodiments may be described in the context of the following exemplary system.

In accordance with an embodiment of the present disclosure, a method and apparatus for weaving a woven textile fabric are described herein. The woven textile may comprise multi-filament polyester yarns within a predefined range of 50 to 160 ends per inch in the warp. In one exemplary embodiment, the woven textile may comprise multi-filament polyester yarns within a predefined range of 60 to 160 ends per inch in the warp. In an embodiment, one or more warp yarns per dent may be setup in the reed apparatus of the warp of the loom apparatus. In one exemplary embodiment, one to four warp yarns per dent may be set up in the reed apparatus of the warp of the loom apparatus. In an embodiment, the multi-filament polyester yarns may have a denier within a predefined range of 75 to 200, and wherein each multifilament polyester yarn may have from 7-200 filaments. In one exemplary embodiment, the woven fabric may have a thread count per inch within a predefined range of 100 to 250. In one embodiment, the woven textile may further comprise 50 to 91 picks per inch in the weft, wherein each pick in the weft is made of cotton or regenerated cellulose fiber or a combination thereof. In an exemplary embodiment, the woven textile may comprise 55 to 85 picks per inch in the weft. In an embodiment, the total cover factor of the fabric may be within a predefined range of 10 to 38, wherein the warp cover factor may be within a predefined range of 8-19, and the weft cover factor may be within a predefined range of 10-19.

It must be noted herein that the fabric made using polyester yarns in the warp provides enhanced attributes to the fabric such as wrinkle-free, luster, strength, and cost-effectiveness. Further, the weft yarns cotton or regenerated cellulose fiber or a combination of both fibers used in the weft provides breathability, comfort, and enhanced softness. It must be understood that the advantage of a balanced ENDS PER INCH in the warp and that warp yarns made of polyester yarns is the reduction in the overall cost of the fabric. The advantage of polyester yarns in warp is many folds. First, the polyester is the cheapest fiber thus it makes the fabric cheaper and cost-effective. Second, the machine runs faster and efficiently as the polyester yarns are strong to bear the abrasion caused in the warp portion of the weaving during weaving. Third, using polyester yarns in the warp, a process called sizing required during warping is eliminated and thus the sizing cost is saved. Other benefits of the polyester yarns include the capability of dyeing the fabric with two different colors thereby giving a good design effect/heather/chambray effect explained in detail subsequent paragraphs.

In accordance with embodiments of the present disclosure, the fabric is weaved in such a way that its strength is enhanced. The enhanced strength helps the fabric to go through a mechanical finishing process known as peaching/napping/liza which in turn enhances the fabric feel and desirability. The existing cotton weft and polyester warp cross weave fabric may not be able to go through the above mechanical finishing process as the fabric may not be able to withstand the mechanical abrasion during the mechanical finishing process. Thus, this may result in the existing fabric tearing or pill drastically, if it undergoes the above mechanical finishing process.

In accordance with an embodiment of the present disclosure, the fabric is weaved in such a way that embossing of a design on the woven fabric using a calendar heat press machine is possible. It must be noted herein that embossing makes the fabric look like a jacquard weaved fabric. However, the embossing technology in the woven fabrics is primarily possible in 100% polyester fabric only, but due to the unique construction and weave of the fabric of the present disclosure makes it possible to emboss designs on cotton rich (cotton greater than 50%) woven fabric using calendar heat press machine.

In accordance with an embodiment of the present disclosure, since the polyester uses different dyes and colors to fix color on polyester yarn, while cellulose yarns use a different process to dye and fix the color of cotton yarns, the inventor of the present application discovered that one can dye two different colors for different yarns while processing the fabric, or dye on only one type of yarn which would give a chambray/heather effect or a design effect that have two different colors. In the existing art, one has to first dye the yarns and then weave the colored yarns to get the above chambray/heather effect or a design effect. However, due to the above feature in the present invention, one can dye the fabric instead of the yarn thus saving on the cost of dyeing yarns. Thus, according to the present invention, one can give different effects to the fabric using two dye colors or just dyeing warp side or weft side of the fabric in order to obtain a nice heather/chambray/design. This is made possible due to the unique nature of dye fixation in different fibers.

Now, referring toFIGS.1(a),1(b) and1(c), different stages of a weaving process implemented using a weaving apparatus are illustrated, in accordance with an embodiment of the present disclosure.

As shown inFIG.1(a), a woven fabric101is illustrated. In one embodiment, the woven fabric may be a woven fabric textile marketed and sold by the applicant herein by the trade name “Lux Du Cotton/suave cotton edition/mystique/oxford milange”. As shown, the woven fabric is usually longer in one direction than the other. The lengthwise threads are called the warps (103), while the other threads, which are combined with the warps103and lie widthwise, are called the wefts (105).

Typically, in the all known methods of weaving, before a length of the weft is inserted in the warp, the warp is separated, over a short length extending from the fabric already formed, into two sheets. The process is called shedding (as indicated inFIG.1(a)) and the space between the sheets is referred to as the shed. A pick of weft is then laid between the two sheets of warp, in the operation known as picking (as indicated inFIG.1(b)). A new shed is then formed in accordance with the desired weave structure, with some or all of the ends in each sheet moving over to the position previously occupied by the other sheet. In this way, the weft is clasped between two layers of warp.

Since it is not possible to lay the weft close to the junction of the warp and the cloth already woven, a further operation called beating in, or beating up (as indicated inFIG.1(c)), is necessary to push the pick to the desired distance away from the last one inserted previously. Although beating usually takes place while the shed is changing, it is normally completed before the new shed is fully formed.

The sequence of primary operations in one weaving cycle is thus shedding (FIG.1(a)), picking (FIG.1(b)), and beating (FIG.1(c)). At the end of the cycle, the geometrical relation of the pick to the warp is the same as it would have been if the pick had been threaded through the spaces between alternate ends, first from one side of the fabric and then from the other, as in darning. This is the reason the weaving process is considered an interlacing method.

In accordance with embodiments of the present disclosure, a woven fabric with enhanced durability, softness, wrinkle resistance, strength, and low cost is proposed. The woven fabric comprises from 50 to 160 ends per inch polyester warp yarns and from 50 to 91 picks per inch in the weft. In another aspect, the weft yarns may be made of cotton yarn or regenerated cellulose yarn or linen fiber yarn or a combination thereof. In yet another aspect, the yarn count on the weft may be within a range of 20-50 count (Ne). In other words, a fabric made with a combination of cotton, polyester warp yarns and regenerated cellulose fiber is proposed herein, wherein cotton or a regenerated cellulose fiber or linen fiber or a combination thereof may be used as weft yarns and the polyester may be used as warp yarns.

In accordance with embodiments of the present disclosure, the weaving method of the fabric may include cotton yarn or regenerated cellulose yarn or linen fiber yarn or a combination thereof of count within a range of 20-50 (NE) in the weft, wherein the ENDS PER INCH of the warp (103) is within a range of 50-160. In the weft insertion step, courser cotton yarns of 20-50 count (NE) are inserted in the loom apparatus of the weaving apparatus, the apparatus may include an air jet or rapier or Sulzer loom. In alternative embodiments, the looming apparatus such as a bullet, magnetic levitation bullet, water jet, air jet and the like may also be employed.

In one embodiment, the picks are woven into the textile fabric (e.g., fabric101) in groups of cotton weft yarns (105) running in a parallel form to one another. In one embodiment, the cotton weft yarns (105) are wound adjacent to one another to enable the simultaneous inserting of the multi-filament polyester weft yarns during a single pick insertion event of a pick insertion apparatus of a loom apparatus (e.g. air jet or rapier or sulzer).

In one embodiment, the woven textile fabric (e.g., fabric101) may be made of cotton, regenerated cellulose fiber or a combination thereof and multi-filament polyester yarns (103). In one embodiment, the woven textile fabric (e.g., fabric101) may have a total thread count from 100 to 250. In one embodiment, the yarn count on the weft is within a predefined range of 20-50 (Ne) count.

In another embodiment, a method of a woven textile fabric (e.g., fabric101) includes forming 100 to 250 threads per inch fine textile fabric. The method forms the woven textile having from 50 to 160 ends per inch warp yarns and the warp yarn count being 75 D-200 D, wherein 1-4 warp yarn per dent may be setup in the reed apparatus of the warp (103) of the loom apparatus and from 50 to 91 picks per inch in the weft wherein the weft yarns are made of cotton or other cellulose fibers.

FIG.2(a)illustrates a loom apparatus200, in accordance with an embodiment of the present disclosure. As shown the loom apparatus (200) comprises the reed apparatus (203) collectively facilitating the process of forming a cloth (208) to obtain cloth beam (209). A warp (201) from a warp beam (206) is set up per dent in the reed apparatus (203) of the loom apparatus200.FIG.2(b)depicts the setting of warp yarns (201) using reed apparatus (203) of the loom apparatus (200), in accordance with an embodiment of the present disclosure. As shown inFIG.2(b), a gap between two strands (indicated in dark) represents a dent (202) through which a warp yarn (indicated in white color) is set up in the reed apparatus (comb-like apparatus). The functions of the components Heddles (204), shuttle (205), and fall (207) are as per the teachings known in the art and hence have not been explained for the sake of brevity.

Some embodiments of the present disclosure enable in forming a woven fabric with long-lasting durability.

Some embodiments of the present disclosure enable in forming a woven fabric having a courser count yarn in warps of 75 D-200 D, wherein the courser count yarn has a higher surface area and is economical than finer yarns. The coarser count yarn increases the surface area covered by the yarn in the fabric. A higher surface area is provided to the warp yarn. Additionally, coarser count is stronger to bear the abrasion of the warp portion during weaving thus allowing to increase efficiency during weaving of fabric and thereby minimizing the cost.

In one exemplary embodiment, three different samples/specimens (hereafter referred to as Sample A, Sample B, and Sample C as shown inFIG.3a) of the woven textile fabric of the present invention were tested in accordance with testing standards prescribed in the textile domain. The results of the tests conducted are summarized below:

1. Fiber Identification/Composition (AATCC 20/20A) for Sample A

Length CottonWidth PolyesterFIBER COMPOSITION (ON FABRIC BASIS): Cotton: 59.5%Polyester: 40.5%REMARK:AATCC: Moisture regain based on ASTM D 1909:2012Polyester 0.4%Cotton: 8.0%
2. Dimension Stability to Washing-Gmt—3 Wash (AATCC 150 (3 Wash)1 (II) A (ii) MACHINE WASH AT 85° F. NORMAL CYCLE FOLLOWED BY TUMBLE DRY MEDIUM.

After 3-RdOriginalWashDimensional(Inch)(Inch)Change (%)RequirementSample ALength102.1101.0−1.14% MaxWidth90.890.0−0.9Sample BLength81.880.5−0.44% MaxWidth61.560.6−1.5Height15.014.8−1.4Sample CLength30.530.2−1.04% MaxWidth20.219.7−2.5Remark: [+] means Extension and [−] means Shrinkage
3. Color Fastness to Crocking (AATCC 8): For Sample A

AObserved ValueRequirementDry4.53.5Wet4.52.5
4. Color Fastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach (AATCC TS 001 (MOD)): For Sample A

Observed ValueLiquid Chlorox 24.0Solid Chlorox 23.5
5. Color Fastness to Light [10 Afu] (AATCC 16 (10 Afu))

AObserved ValueRequirementColor Change4.03.5(10 Afu)
6. Construction (ASTM D3775-12): For Sample A

Observed Value (Per Inch)Length67Width68
7. Fabric Weight (ASTM D3776): For Sample A

Observed ValueGm./sq. Mtr132.17Oz./sq. Mtr3.9
8. Tearing Strength (ASTM D1424): For Sample A

Observed ValueRequirementLength2.10 lb1.3 lbWidth8.10 lb1.3 lb
9. Tensile Strength (ASTM D5034): For Sample A

Observed ValueRequirementLength34.2 lb20 lbWidth108.7 lb20 lb
10. Yarn Count (ASTM D1059): For Sample A

Observed ValueLength21.0 NeWidth161.2 D
11. Color Fastness to Home Laundering: [3 Wash]
AATCC 150 (3 Wash)1 (II) A (ii) MACHINE WASH AT 85° F. NORMAL CYCLE FOLLOWED BY TUMBLE DRY MEDIUM.
After 1St Wash

SampleSampleSampleRequire-ParameterABCmentColor Change3.53.53.5—ColorAcetate4.54.54.53.0StainingCotton4.54.54.5Nylon4.54.54.5Polyester4.54.54.5Acrylic4.54.54.5Wool4.54.54.5
12. Seam Slippage/Strength (ASTM D1683):
For Sample B:

SlippageStrengthCornerObservedObservedSeamValueRequirementValueRequirement*Min 15 lb26.3 lb [STB]Min 15 lb
For Sample C:

SlippageStrengthSideObservedObservedSeamValueRequirementValueRequirementMin 15 lb31.3 lb [STB]Min 15 lbREMARK:STB = Sewing Thread Broken.* = The seam opening was less than 0.25 inches (¼ inches) though the ultimate seam strength was found as stated.

In another exemplary embodiment, a sample/specimen (as shown inFIG.3b) of the woven textile fabric containing 60% cotton and 40% Polyester was tested for determining the number of filaments, the result of which is summarized below:

1. Number of Filaments:

Observed ValueLength130Width*Remark:*: Due to spun structure of the yarn, the number of filaments cannot be performed.

Some embodiments of the present disclosure enable in forming a woven fabric having a cotton fiber yarn or regenerated cellulose fiber yarn or a combination thereof in the warp, wherein the said fiber yarn is softer, breathable, comfortable, and drapes well.

Some embodiments of the present disclosure enable in forming a woven fabric having courser count yarn on the weft and the courser polyester yarns (in denier) on the warp which makes the fabric naturally soft. The warp yarn is courser thus covers the higher surface area, additionally, the fabric looks fuller and rich due to optimum cover factor and using coarser yarns in warp and weft.

Although implementations for apparatus(s) and method(s) of forming a woven fabric textile with high thread count, enhanced durability, softness, wrinkle resistance, strength, and low cost have been described in language specific to structural features and/or methods, it is to be understood that the implementations and/or embodiments are not necessarily limited to the specific features or methods described. Rather, the specific features and methods are disclosed as examples of implementations for forming a woven fabric textile with enhanced durability, ultimate softness, wrinkle resistance, light in weight and ultra-low-cost.