The City of Light with its Eiffel Tower, Champs Elysées, Louvre and convalescent Notre Dame... But it’s only when you visit the second or the third time that you start to uncover its real magic: the street entertainers on Pont St Louis, the pavement cafes, the dusty bookshops, the leafy cemeteries, the vintage shops, the catacombs, the preposterously posh cake shops, the cream-gravelled squares, the lovers on benches, on canal banks and in art galleries.