Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1891

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
A communication by JONATHAN MUNYAN, of Worcester, in the State of Massa-
chusetts, one of the United States of America, Gentleman.
I ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES of 55 & 56 Chancery Lane in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object the provision of a novel machine particularly
designed for sewing with wax thread, the stitch being made from two threads, one
manipulated by a hooked needle, and the other by a shuttle, the machine herein
represented being adapted for sewing out-soles to welts in the manufacture of boots
and shoes.
The machine herein to be described contains a straight hooked-needle and a
curved awl, both adapted to work upwardly from below the work support on which
the sole is supposed to rest, the needle-bar actuating mechanism and the awl
actuating mechanism having combined with them devices whereby they are adapted
to accomodate themselves to varying thicknesses of material, the point of the awl
and of the hooked needle always rising for substantially the same distance through
the top of the welt whatever may be the thickness of the outer sole and welt.
The fulcrum posts for the levers employed for actuating the needle-bar and awl
carrying lever are varied in their position, by or through the presser-foot which
bears upon the stock, which in practice will be the welt, the sole at such time
resting upon a fixed work support.
The stock is fed by means of feeding devices which clamp and move it
positively.
That member of the feeding clamp against which the outer sole bears, has as
shown, a knife located just in advance of the needle to cut & groove or channel in
the sole to conceal the stitch, for in a machine wherein the shuttle is double-pointed
and enters successive loops of needle thread first from one and then from the other
side thereof, it will be remembered the every other loop of needle thread is
twisted out of line and were it not for the groove in the sole, the stitch would
present to the eye a zig-zag appearance, which would be apt to render the shoe
unsaleable.
This groove if made in the sole before putting it in the machine, must be made
in a machine wherein the shoe is held on a last, the upper serving as the gauge to
define the distance of the seam uniting the welt and out-sole, from the upper.
To however avoid this extra operation, the channel groove may be cut in the
sewing machine at a point immediately before the stitch making point and just
previous to making the stitch.
The needle thread is led from a suitable spool or bobbin, to a thread eye which
is connected with the rising and falling presser-foot, and the said thread is taken
from the thread-eye by a forked thread carrier, which deposits a quantity of the
said thread upon a loop sustainer, which is maintained in position while the thread
carrier deposits the needle thread held by it into the hook of the needle; this
having been done, the said thread sustainer is retracted or moved out of the way, it
coming into position again when the thread carrier is fully lifted and the needle is
just about penetrating the material, the thread sustainer remaining stationary while
the needle thread is laid in loop form above it as described.
This thread sustainer is also adapted to rise and fall together with the presser-
foot.according to the variations in thickness of the stock, so that it may always

page_text: occupy the proper position to correctly cooperate with the thread carrier whether
the stock is thick or thin.
The shuttle used is double ended and adapted to make a stitch in each direction
of its movement, and the shuttle-race is completely cut through cross-wise, and has
combined with it an oscillating loop-spreader which takes the loop of needle thread
while held in the hook of the needle, and carries it laterally, thus spreading the loop
to be entered by the shuttle.
Cooperating with the loop spreader is a cast off fer throwing the loop out of the
eye of the needle on the back stroke of the spreader.
The needle-bar as it rises actuates a lever to pull off from the thread supply a
quantity of thread which varies in amount according to the thickness of the stock,
the needle thread at such time being clamped between the pull off lever for the
needle thread and the thread eye referred to.
The needle thread is passed over a take-up which acts not only to give up thread
to the thread carrier during its descent, but also to give up thread to the needle
while descending, and to the spreader, and thereafter to take up the loop of needle
thread.
While the needle is completing its descent, the needle thread is unclamped
between the take-up and the measuring roll and clamped between the measuring
roll and the thread supply, so that the thread previously drawn off positively
from the thread supply, has an opportunity to come into the stitch then being
made.
Fig. 2, a left hand side view thereof.
Fig. 3, a front elevation thereof.
Fig. 4, a right hand end view.
Figs. 5 and 6 represent the shape of the awl and needle actuating cam grooves.
Fig. 7, is a partial section below the dotted line z, Fig. 4.
Figs. 8 and 9, details of the cam grooves in the peripheries of the feed and
spreader cams B, C.
Fig. 10 a diagram showing the measuring roll, the acting portion of the thread
clamp, the tension device, the needle, the thread eye, the thread carrier, and part
of the take-up.
Fig. 11, a detail showing part of an outsole and welt with the hooked needle
therein and about to be supplied with a measured loop of thread from the thread.
carrier, the presser-foot resting on the welt, the thread sustainer yet supporting
the loop of needle thread about to be drawn through the stock by the hooked
needle.
Fig. 12 shows three views of that member of the feed clamp which is provided
with the cutter.
Fig. 13, a top view and side elevation of the loop spreader and cast off
enlarged.
Fig. 14, three views of the shuttle race detached, and
Fig. 15, two views of the measuring block.
Referring to the drawings, A represents the frame work of the machine which
may be of any suitable shape to support the working parts.
the
This frame work has suitable bearings for a main or cam-shaft A', upon which
are secured cams B, C, D and E, and a pinion F shown by dotted lines in Fig. 4,
it being located between the cams C and E, its purpose being to engage and rotate
cam-gear E, mounted upon a stud E', the said cam-gear having a cam groove
in one side of it as represented in Fig. 4, which receives a roller or other stud E³,
on a lever E, pivoted at Es, upon a part of the frame work, the said lever at its
upper end having a swiveled joint E, to which is connected by screw E' a shuttle
driving rod E, having suitable drivers e, e', shown in Fig. 4, which act against the
opposite ends of the shuttle E', shown separately in Fig. 14, the said drivers acting
in usual manner to reciprocate the shuttle and carry it through.the loop of needle

page_text: thread to be described, but the speed of rotation of the cam-gear E' is one-half
that of the main shaft A', so that the shuttle is passed through one loop in one
direction, and through the next loop in the opposite direction, thus making a stitch
at each stroke of the shuttle in each direction.
The rod Es has an additional bearing in a lug or ear El secured to or forming
part of the shuttle race E", which is attached by a suitable bolt or bolts E¹ to the
top plate of the framework A.
This shuttle race is shown separately in Fig. 14, where it will be seen that the
race has a broad transverse slot 40, through which works the spreader 6 to be
described, shewn separately in Fig. 13, the said race having at its upper side a
work-support 6, provided with a groove up through which the needle and awl
rise, the one to perforate the material, and the other to enter the hole made by
the awl.
The portion 6' of the shuttle race acts as a support for the under member ¢¹º of
the feed clamp.
It will be noticed that this shuttle race is substantially straight at its upper side,
but that it is slightly inclined from a horizontal plane, and that the work support is
elevated above it, such construction permitting the shuttle to move in a straight
line, and also enabling the shoe to be tipped as required in order that the stitch
may be made through the welt and out-sole close to the inseam, or to the upper
next to the last.
The shuttle will be provided with any usual tension mechanism, and the shuttle
race and shuttle will be heated in any usual manner to keep the shuttle thread
warm, and the wax on the thread soft.
The spreader b, shown separately in Fig. 13, is composed essentially of an
upright arm having a groove 2 for the reception of the loop of needle thread, the
said arm being connected to the upper end of an oscillating shaft 64, having at its
lower end a pinion 6', which is engaged by a toothed segment, pivoted at 6', the
said segment having adjustably connected with it by a set screw 6 a link 6, in turn
jointed at its opposite end to a lever B', having its fulcrum on a stud B', and
provided with a roller or other stud B which enters the groove 3 see Fig. 9, in the
cam C, the shape of the said cam being such as to oscillate the said shaft for about
one half a rotation.
The shaft 6 has connected to it a cast-off 610, shown in Fig. 13, it having a
point 4.
In operation this spreader and cast-off swing backwards and forwards through
the transverse slot in the shuttle race, the centre of motion of the pinions 6º being.
in the vertical plane in which the shuttle moves..
The cam B has at its outer side, see Fig. 4 a cam groove 5, which receives a
roller or other stud at the inner end of a rocking lever B³, having its fulcrum_at B*,
in suitable brackets B', depending from the upper part of the frame-work, the
upwardly extending arm B of the said rocking-lever carrying the movable
member 41 of a thread clamp to be described, the said arm being shown in cross-
section in the detail Fig. 10.
The cam B, shown separately in Fig. 8, has at its periphery a cam groove 6,
which receives a roller or other stud c of a lever c¹ having its fulcrum at c³ and
slotted at its outer end as at to receive a stud c connected with the feed
regulating lever, pivoted at 7 on the lever c, pivoted at c', see Fig. 1 upon the
framework, and connected by a jointed link, with an ear on the frame & carrying
the under member of the feed clamp.
The frame c is pivoted upon a vertical stud-screw c, about which stud-screw
the feeding clamp is vibrated when feeding the work, the length of the vibration
being made greater or less by moving the feed regulating lever o; as will be well
understood.
The frame co has a horizontally arranged stud-screw c", which serves as the
fulcrum for the lever or arm e", on which is mounted the upper member o" of the
feed clamp.

page_text: The member of the feed clamp is normally acted upon by a spring c", which
may be adjusted by or through a thumb screw e as to its strength, the said spring
permitting the upper member to rise and fall and to adapt itself to the varying
thickness of the sole and welt or stock passing between it and the lower member of
the clamp.
To lift the upper member of the clamp by hand, I have connected with the
lever a link, see Fig. 4, which is attached to a lever pivoted at "upon
the measuring block c" to be described, the said measuring block being shown best
in the detail Fig. 15.
The lower member 10 of the feed clamp has connected to it by screws 8 see
Fig. 12, a knife f, which is located immediately in front of the stitch making point,
so that it cuts a groove in the sole just in advance of the sewing, the needle and
awl entering the said groove, the stitch being buried therein.
The knife is so shaped as to spread and somewhat open the groove made by it in
the sole.
The measuring block forms a part of a slide c fitted to rise and fall in a
suitable groove in the upright A' fixed upon the frame-work.
The slide has a stud c, see Figs. 4 and 15, which forms the fulcrum for the
lever which is forked at its front end as shown in Fig. 2 to embrace a loose
block fitted upon a stud screw c", attached to a carriage c adapted to slide in a
suitable groove in the arm or lever g, to which is bolted the presser foot g', the
said carriage having pivoted upon it at c, see Fig. 3, the thread carrier g', it
having a roller or other stud 93 which enters a cam slot 9 in a plate g' attached to
the arm or lever g, the lower end of the said thread carrier being bifurcated as
at 12, and being notched at 13*, see Fig. 11, substantially at right angles to the
notch or bifurcation 12.
The rear end of the arm or lever g, is pivoted by the stud go, see Fig. 2, so that
the top presser-foot carried at the underside of the said lever normally rests by
gravity upon the welt w, the said lever g having attached to it one end of a
spring 300, the other end of the spring being attached by a screw m to the cap
plate m, said spring serving to overcome some of the weight of the front end of
the said lever and the presser foot g' carried thereby while the forward feed is
taking place so as not to drag over the welt and retard the feed.
The stud ", extended from the slide is also extended through the lever g, so
that as the position of the said lever is changed by the thickness of the stock under
the presser-foot carried by it, the said lever will correspondingly raise or lower the
said slide and with it the fulcrum pin " for the lever c", such provision enabling
the thread carrier to always move the same distance namely; down to the welt w
see Fig. 11, no matter where it may be, and up to a position above or to the rear of
the thread eye as indicated in Fig. 3, for it will be understood that the notched
lower end of the thread carrier must get entirely out of the way of the thread as
the latter is being turned by the needle down through the leather and while the
feed takes place, for at such time the needle thread is extended and under strain
between the leather and the thread eye h.
The presser-foot has connected with it a thread-eye h through which the
needle-thread is led on its way to the work.
The rear end of the lever has jointed to it a link ¹, which in turn is jointed
to a right angled extension, see Fig. 1, of a lever h³, mounted on a stud h³, the
lower end of the said lever having a roller or other stud which enters a cam
groove shaped as shown in dotted lines Fig. 2, and made in one side of the cam D,
the said cam, lever, and link, vibrating the said lever to reciprocate the thread
carrier.
The lever g, see Fig. 4, has pivoted upon it a lever m the front end of which is
connected by a stud-screw 14 to a slide m³, upon which is pivoted, by stud-screw 15,
the thread sustainer m², best shown in Figs. 1, 3, 4 and 11, it having a point 16
suitably grooved to prevent the needle-thread slipping off from it.
The thread-sustainer has jointed to it by stud screws 17, a link m³, shown by
'

page_text: full lines Fig. 1 and dotted lines Fig. 4, which in turn is jointed to a lever m*
pivoted at m upon a part of the frame-work, the lower end of the said lever having
a suitable roller or other stud 18, which is acted upon at suitable times by a cam
surface 19 19* see Fig. 9 at the periphery of the cam C.
The lever m is acted upon above its pivot by a suitable spring m which
normally serves to keep the roller 18 in contact with the cam, the upper end of
the said lever having a second hole as me shown by dotted lines in Fig. 4, so as to
enable the link m² to be connected with the lever m² at a greater distance from its
fulcrum according to the amount of throw desired for the thread sustainer.
The rear end of the lever mis jointed by link m' to the bracket cap plate m³.
This cap plate has suitable bearings for a stud n, upon which is mounted the
take-up lever n', having a suitable sheave n³, the said take up lever, see Fig. 2,
having a second arm n which is slotted for the reception of an adjustable stud
screw n which is connected by link with the lever n° mounted on the stud /*
before described, the lower end of the lever n having a suitable roller or other
stud which enters a cam groove 20 at the outer side of the cam E.
The upright A has a stud D' upon which is mounted the awl carrying lever D'
it having at its front end, as herein shown, a suitable awl D³, the awl being held
in place in any suitable manner.
The awl carrying lever D' has jointed to it a link D', in turn jointed to a
lever D' having its fulcrum upon a pin D', in a fulcrum post D', provided at its
lower end with a fixed collar Ds, and at its upper end with an adjustable nut Dº,
which nut rests upon the measuring block c", or upon a sound deadening washer D";
see Figs. 3 and 15, interposed between the block and nut.
The nut D may be adjusted on the fulcrum post D' to compensate any
shortening of the awl due to grinding.
The lever De has at its rear end a suitable roller or other stud D®, see Figs. 2
and 5 which enters a cam-groove 21 in the side of the cam D see Fig. 5.
The cam C has at one side of it a cam-groove 22, the shape of which is best
shown in Fig. 6, which receives a roller or other stud 23 of a lever H, having its
fulcrum at H on a fulcrum post H, provided at its lower end with a collar H³,
and at its upper end with a nut H³ which rests normally upon the measuring
block alongside of the nut D'.
The front end of the needle bar actuating lever H is provided with sector teeth,
which engage teeth of the needle-bar H*, it being a straight bar provided with
a straight hooked needle p.
In this my present invention, the needle and awl work in the same vertical
plane, and both rise in the groove 6º in the work-support 6' the awl making a hole
through the outer sole and welt, and then being withdrawn to let the needle p rise
up through the sole and welt, it passing through the hole made by the awl.
This arrangement of the awl and needle at the same side of the stock and in the
same vertical plane substantially at right angles to the line of stitching, enables
one or the other to remain in the stock at the same point for a longer period than
is possible when the awl and needle are arranged one along side of the other in the
direction of the length of the stitch, and in this arrangement the awl and needle
always remain in the same vertical plane with relation to the work support, that is,
neither of them has to do with feeding the material.
By dispensing with the awl-feed heretofore used, the machine is simplified, and
by causing the needle to enter the awl hole just as quick as the awl leaves it
without. moving the shoe, prevents any accidental displacement of the shoe, which
would happen if the awl was arranged at the side of the needle and the material
to be fed in order to place the awl hole over the needle.
The needle bar has a dog attached to it by a suitable screw, which dog
about as the point of the needle enters the sole, strikes the end of a lever
pivoted at on a stud of a hanger secured to the frame-work, the opposite
end of the said lever, called the "pull-off lever" having a sheaver, shown chiefly
by dotted lines: Fig. 4 and by full lines-in Figs. 7 & 10.

page_text: This sheave acts upon a bight of the needle thread t.
The needle thread taken from a suitable thread supply which may be a cop,
spool, or bobbin, is led over any usual tension device as t, thence under a roll t³
thence over a roll t, down through a slot, see Fig. 10, in the frame-work under
the sheaver, and up over the sheave n³ down to and through the thread-eye hi
to the work.
The needle-thread it will be noticed passes at opposite sides of the clamping
block 41 at the upper end of the arm B of the lever B, and as the said arm
is moved to the right or left, said block clamps the said thread between it and
the frame-work.
When the dog meets the pull-off lever to turn it the thread is clamped
between the clamping block and the portion 24 of the frame-work or at the left
viewing Fig. 10, and at such time the sheaver acting on the needle-thread, pulls
off the needle-thread more or less in quantity according to the thickness of the
stock, for it will be understood that the point to which the needle ascends varies
through change of position of the fulcrum post H' according to the variations in
thickness of the stock under the presser-foot.
As the dog acts to turn the pull-off lever ³, the latter lever acts upon a
stud fast to the clamp lifting lever and automatically lifts the upper member c
of the clamp while the feed clamps are being moved backwardly over the stock,
the stock then being held by the needle, and also between the presser-foot and
work support, and it is at this time that the groove or channel is cut in the
bottom of the outer sole, the length of the groove being the distance of the feed.
In operation let it be assumed that the outer sole of the shoe lies upon the
work-support and upon the lower member co of the feed clamp then in its most
forward position; that the presser-foot g¹ and the upper member o¹ of the work
feeding clamp rests upon the welt wo, that the awl has been thrust up through the
soles and welt; that the needle P (Fig. 2) has been down into its lowest position;
that the spreader 6 has engaged the loose or active side of the loop of needle-thread
just drawn down by the needle, and that the spreader has been moved to spread
the loop of needle-thread across the path of the shuttle then stationary; that the
take-up n¹ is in its most elevated position; that the thread-support m³ is retracted;
that the thread-carrier 9 is in its most elevated position; and that the thread
clamp 41 is moved toward the left viewing Fig. 10, to clamp the needle-thread
between the sheave and the take-up sheaven.
In this condition rotation of the main shaft in the direction of the arrow 28,
see Fig. 1 will depress the awl, withdrawing it from the stock and as the awl
commences its descent, the needle-bar commences to rise, the point of the needle
entering the awl hole in the stock substantially as the point of the awl leaves the
said hole, the needle entering the awl hole without any change in the position of
the stock, thus avoiding any possibility of displacement of the material.
As the awl commences to descend, the thread support m³ is moved forward, it
arriving in its most forward position about as the point of the needle enters the
stock, the thread carrier commencing its descent while the needle is rising
through the stock, the thread carrier in its descent engaging the needle thread
below the thread-eye h and carrying it laterally across the top of the then
stationary thread-support, the thread guide or carrier descending in a cam
shaped path to the right of the thread support, see Fig. 11, and measuring off a
quantity of the needle-thread for the stitch to be made, the thread carrier taking
the thread so being measured off by it and carrying it down to the welt, at which
point it meets the hook of the needle, the thread carrier putting the needle
thread in the hook of the needle as in Fig. 11.
During the descent of the thread carrier as described, the take-up also descends,
it continuing to descend until the thread-carrier presents the thread held by it to
the hook of the needle, when the descent of the take-up stops the thread support is
quickly withdrawn from the loop of thread placed about it by the thread-carrier,
leaving the said loop free to be drawn down by the needle in its next descent.

page_text: While the needle is elevated and in the stock, the stock feeding clamp is moved
backwardly or to the right viewing Fig. 3, the knifef then cutting a groove in the
sole equal to the length of the feed movement.
As the needle descends with the loop of needle thread so measured off for it, the
thread carrier rises and the take-up continues to descend, giving up thread to the
descending needle, but in its descent the thread does not rend through or across
the hook of the needle, because thread for that stitch had been previously measured
off by the thread carrier and thread support.
After the needle completes its descent, the shaft 6 is oscillated to cause the
spreader b, see Fig. 13, to engage the active or loose side of the loop of needle-
thread and carry it across the shuttle-race in front of one end of the then stationary
shuttle, and during this time the take-up completes its descent giving up thread to
the spreader in order to make the loop of sufficient size for the shuttle.
The spreader having come to rest, the shuttle, while the take-up is most depressed
and while the needle and awl are both depressed below the stock, is passed through
the loop of needle-thread, and as soon as the shuttle is through the loop of needle-
thread, the take-up starts to rise and the motion of the shaft 6" is reversed, causing
the cast off 60 to engage the loop of needle-thread and cast it out of the hook of
the needle if said loop has not already been released from the needle, the take-up
continuing to rise, and the spreader continuing to move back into its furthest
position to the left viewing Fig. 3, and remaining there until the take-up has nearly
completed its movement to take up the stitch, at which time the awl again
commences to rise toward the material, the take-up completing its upward move-
ment before the awl engages the material, the feeding clamp moving the material
forward between the presser-foot and work-support while the awl approaches the
stock, the feed being completed before the awl reaches the outer sole.
While the needle rises through the stock, the thread is clamped between the
sheave and the take-up, but as soon as the needle is in the stock and before the
thread carrier delivers the loop of needle-thread to the hook of the needle, the thread
clamp shifts its position or moves to the right viewing Fig. 4, clamping the thread
at the side 44, and between the sheave and the thread supply, it holding the said
thread so clamped until the needle finishes its next descent and the take-up sets
the stitch, the thread being released just about as the awl commences to enter the
outer sole.
I am aware that sewing machines of this class have been provided with a pull-off
to act upon the needle-thread before it is passed through the eye of the looper to
be supplied to the hook of the hooked needle, the said pull-off being operatively
connected with the work-support through a variable-motion mechanism, whereby
the pull-off has more or less movement imparted to it through changes in position
of said work support, such position being determined by the thickness of the stock,
but such construction is not herein claimed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1:-A work-support, and a presser-foot to hold the stock between them, combined
with a curved awl to penetrate the stock, and with a needle to enter the hole made
in the stock by the awl, the needle entering the awl hole while the stock is in the
same position in which it was penetrated by the awl, substantially as described.
2: In a sole sewing machine, a work-support, a presser foot, a curved awl,
means to actuate it, and a straight hooked needle, and means to actuate it, the
needle and awl both located below and rising from the underside of the work
support through the material, substantially as described.
3:-The combination with a hooked needle, a thread carrier, a work-support, of
a feeding clamp, one member of which is provided with a channel cutter to inter-
mittingly cut a channel in advance of the stitching, substantially as described.
4:-A work support, a hooked needle, a thread carrier, and a double ended

page_text: shuttle to make a stitch during each stroke in each direction of its movement,
combined with a feeding clamp having a channel cutter, to operate, substantially as
described.
5-A work-support, a hooked needle, a self-adapting presser-foot, a thread
carrier and thread sustainer for the needle thread both supported in such manner
as to rise and fall with the presser-foot according to variations in thickness of the
stock, combined with means to move the said thread-carrier and thread-sustainer
whereby the needle-thread is measured off prior to its engagement by the needle,
to prevent it from being drawn across the hook of the needle, while the loop is
being formed in the needle-thread, substantially as described.
6: The work-support, a presser foot, a cam-plate connected thereto, and rising
and falling therewith, and a pivoted thread-carrier rising and falling with the
presser-foot and having a projection to enter a slot in the said plate to move the
thread-carrier laterally prior to the formation of each stitch, to operate, substantially
as described.
7-A work-support, a presser-foot, a thread-eye h, and a thread-sustainer, each
connected with the rising and falling presser-foot, a hooked needle, a thread-carrier,
a carriage upon which it is mounted, and a cam-plate, combined with means to
actuate said carriage whereby the said thread-carrier has imparted to it both vertical
and lateral movements, substantially as described.
8-A work-support, a presser-foot, a hooked needle, and a thread eye with a
thread-carrier having an open notch to embrace the upper end of the hooked needle,
and having a transverse notch 13ª intersecting the front of the open notch to
engage the needle thread below the thread-eye and present it across the hook of the
needle after the latter has entered the open notch, substantially as described.
9:-A vertically reciprocating hooked needle a thread-carrier to present to it a
loop of thread, and an inclined shuttle-race, having a transverse slot 40, and a work
support on the upper side of said race, combined with a shuttle, the spreader, and
the oscillating shaft to which it is attached, the spreader moving backwards and
forwards in said transverse slot, substantially as described.
10: The vertically reciprocating hooked needle, and thread-carrier, a transversely
slotted shuttle-race, a shuttle therein, and means to move it combined with a loop-
spreader, and cast off, and the vertically placed oscillating spreader shaft 6¼, sub-
stantially as described.
11 A work-support, a presser-foot, a movable carrier therefor, an awl, an
actuating lever, connections between it and the awl-carrier, a needle-bar actuating
lever, variable fulcrum posts for said levers, connections between the said fulcrum-
posts and the movable carrier for the presser-foot, and means to actuate said levers,
substantially as described.
12: A work-support, a carrier g, a vertically movable block upon which it is
mounted, a presser-foot connected to the said carrier, two fulcrum posts connected
with said block, an awl carrier having an attached awl, a needle-bar having a
hooked needle, combined with awl and needle-bar actuating levers, and means to
actuate the said levers whereby the awl and needle are adapted to rise through the
sole and welt for a uniform distance notwithstanding variations in thickness of the
stock, substantially as described.
13: In a sole-sewing machine the following instrumentalities, viz.: a work-
support, a presser-foot, a straight hooked needle, an awl, and actuating devices
therefor whereby the needle enters the awl hole as the latter emerges therefrom as
described combined with an independent clamping-feed device, and means to vibrate
the latter while engaging and clamping the stock to feed the same while the needle
and awl are out of the stock, substantially as described.
14: The work-support, a hooked-needle, and needle-bar and the projection r
carried by the said needle-bar, combined with the pull-off levers actuated thereby,
means to automatically vary the stroke of said needle-bar according to the thickness
of the stock, substantially as described.
15: The work-support, a hooked needle, and needle-bar, and the projection

page_text: carried by said bar, combined with the pull-off lever actuated thereby, means to
automatically vary the stroke of said needle-bar according to the thickness of the
stock, and with a thread clamp 41, to operate, substantially as described.
16:-The work-support, a hooked needle and needle bar, the dog or projection
carried by the needle-bar, combined with the pull-off lever actuated thereby, means
to automatically vary the stroke of said needle-bar according to the thickness of
the stock, and with the feeding-clamp, and the pin and connections between it
and the feeding clamp to actuate the latter to lift the upper member of the clamp,
substantially as described.
17 The work-support, a hooked needle, a straight needle-bar, and the pro-
jection carried thereby, combined with the pull-off lever actuated thereby,
means to automatically vary the stroke of said needle-bar according to the thick-
ness of the stock, and with a take-up to act upon the needle-thread, substantially
as described.
18 The combination arrangement and use of the various parts of a sewing
machine particularly adapted for sewing with waxed thread and two threads one
manipulated by a hooked needle and the other by a shuttle substantially as
Bet forth.
Dated the 7th day of September 1891.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.