SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1881

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Bland at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 29th August 1881.
HENRY BLAND, of Luton, in the County of Bedford.
SEWING MACHINES."
"IMPROVEMENTS IN
My Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, more particularly
such as are used in the manufacture of straw hats, bonuets, or similar articles;
but parts of my improvements are also applicable to sewing machines employed
for other purposes.
In carrying out my Invention I construct the arm of the machine in the form of
a projection from the lower part of the head, and I make the arm of the smallest
diameter practicable (say, for example, about 21/2 inches) for greater convenience
in shaping the bat. In order to adapt the mechanism to this altered form I arrange
it in the following manner, viz.:-I arrange the needle so as to operate in an
upward direction, and construct the needle bar in the form of an elongated vertical
slide, which extends from beneath the cloth plate to the upper part or head of the
machine, where it receives its motion from a crank, disc, or equivalent device on the
main shaft. From the lower end of the needle bar projects outwardly a block,
which passes through a slot in the arm of the machine and carries the upwardly
projecting needle. By this arrangement therefore whilst the needle operates from
below, the actuating mechanism is situate at the upper part of the machine, and
hence the necessity for providing space beneath the cloth plate for the reception of
such mechanism is entirely obviated. At the side of the said needle bar I arrange
another slide bar carrying a hook, which like the needle operates in an upward
direction, and is moreover so arranged as to work at a slight outward angle to the
needle, thus securing greater certainty of retention of the loop. The hook slide is
actuated intermittently by the needle bar by being caused to partake of a portion
only of its motion, the advantage of such intermittent motion being the avoiding

page_text: of the ability to the tearing or breaking out of tender material upon the upper
side. For this purpose tappets or projections are provided at the ends of the hook
slide, with which the needle bar comes in contact at the requisite period in its
motion in both directions. The material is thus first perforated by the needle and
afterwards by the hook, and in the return stroke the needle first descends while
the hook remains stationary for the purposes of looping, after which it is carried
down by the needle bar, and the two instruments complete their motion together.
The feed then takes place & the needle rises again and perforates the material,
and is followed by the hook, and so on, in succession repeating the operations
hereinbefore described. The hook slide works in a guide block which is pivotted
at its lower end to the arm of the machine, so as to admit of the hooked instrument
being adjusted to different angles relatively to the needle bar, the degree of the
angle being thus regulated as required for a longer or shorter stitch. It is obvious
that the book slide may be operated from the needle slide by other devices than
those herein before described. The stitching is completed by a single looping
instrument which I arrange at a suitable angle (say, for example, about 30 degrees)
to the line of the shaft, so that the looping instrument engages the loop of the
needle and passes across or over the end of the hook, and that in the descent of the
needle the thread is drawn off the looper on to the hook. This instrument is
operated by a cam on the main shaft which actuates a small arm attached to the
said looper spindle, the said arm being maintained in contact with the cam
by means of a spring. By arranging the looper at an angle, as hereinbefore
described, I am enabled to perform with a single looper and a single cam the
several operations, for which two loopers and two cams are ordinarily required in
machines of this class.
In connection with the arrangement of the arm I so dispose the feed bar that its
fulcrum is at the highest point of the head. The body of the feed bar extends
down in front of the face, and to its lower portion the feed surface is attached,
..whilst from the upper part of the body depends a short arm which bears upon an
eccentric placed immediately behind the crank disc. The bar is pivotted to a
sliding plate, so that whilst it is free to rise and fall under the action of the
-eccentric it is also capable of oscillation or pendulous motion upon the said pivots.
The pivots are arranged at such a position relatively to the eccentric that a
suitable rise and fall are obtained, whilst the body of the feed bar gives a long
stitch.
The feeding device may be so constructed as to admit of a single feeding surface
similar to those in general use, freely following by its own motions the curve of
the work when required.
The feeding surface at, say, about 1/3rd of its distance from the back end, is
provided with a stem or pin which takes into one end of a short arm, the other end
of this arm is provided with a longer pin which fits into a sleeve conveniently
formed on the end of the feed carrier, thus permitting freedom of side movement
controllable only by the walls of the opening of the cloth plate, the said opening
being wider at the back end to a convenient distance as may be found most con-
venient in practice. As the feed returns to its normal position it is guided by the
said walls to its straight or true position, being free to follow the curvature of
the work.
In certain classes of work, when difficult shapes are required, a double feed is used
of the construction next hereinafter described.
I construct a bearing plate of thin steel or other metal, carrying at its outer end
one feed surface, termed the outer feed. This limb is recessed some distance from
its end and provided with a pivot rivetted to the same. Upon this pivot I fit a
second limb, also of thin metal, carrying another feed surface. The rear end of the
said limb projects outwardly towards the rear end of the said feed carrier. This
limb is provided with a spring which keeps it somewhat extended from the said
-carrier, and is further provided with a small buffer at its extreme end. When ready
to start to make the forward stroke both feeds bear the same. relation to each other.

page_text: As the feed advances a stop or other appliance conveniently adjusted is brought
to bear against the rear end of the second limb, thereby closing the end of the
said limb towards the carrier. By this means I obtain a longer movement of
this feed surface (which I term the inner feed) according to the degree of closing
of the rear end of its limb, thus producing a lengthened stroke which is controllable
at will.
The work guides are suitably carried by stems fitted into holes in the head
of the machine, and are adjusted by simply being drawn in or out to the extent
required.
In applying my Invention to machines of the class described in the Specification
to former Letters Patent granted to me dated the 28th June 1877, No. 2503, I
employ a double presser so arranged as to obtain the greatest steadiment without
any attached spline. For this purpose the casting (which may be of the usual,
form) is drilled at convenient distances to contain spiral springs, and stops or plugs
below and above them. This casting so bored or drilled is slotted through from
top to bottom a suitable depth to receive two bars of thin steel side by side.
These bars are slotted in the middle to clear the spiral springs and the said plugs,
which springs and plugs work in the said slots. The top plug is kept in position
by a small pin which passes through the casting, thereby preventing the springs
from pushing upwards; thus when the bar is raised the spring acts upon the lower
plug fitted into the slot and gives pressure to the said bar, whilst the plug fitting
the bored hole in the casting serves for side steadiment.
The looper is carried in a tube, the walls of which are formed with an opening
for expanding the loop. To the looper is imparted a rolling motion towards the
advance direction of the work, which motion is obtained by a small eccentric on
the end of a spindle connected by a link to the feed bar mechanism in any
convenient manner so that the advance of the feed gives the rolling motion.
It is obvious that these improvements are also applicable to machines.of a
different construction to that hereinbefore referred to.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Henry Bland in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 28th February
1882.
HENRY BLAND, of Luton, in the County of Bedford.
SEWING MACHINES."
"
IMPROVEMENTS IN
My said Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, more particularly
such as are used in the manufacture of straw hats, bonnets, or similar articles, but
parts of my improvements are also applicable to sewing machines employed for
other purposes.
In carrying out my Invention I construct the arm of the machine in the form
of a projection from the lower part of the head, and I make the arm of the smallest
diameter practicable (say, for example,. about 2 inches) for greater convenience in
shaping the hat. In order to adapt the mechanism to this altered form I arrange
it in the following manner, videlicet :-I arrange the needle so as to operate in an
upward direction, and construct the needle bar in the form of an elongated vertical
slide which extends from beneath the cloth plate to the upper part or head of the
machine, where it receives its motion from a crank, disc, or equivalent device on
the main shaft. From the lower end of the needle bar projects outwardly a block
which passes through a slot in the arm of the machine and carries the upwardly
projecting needle.
By this arrangement therefore whilst the needle operates from below, the
actuating mechanism is situate at the upper part of the machine, and hence the
necessity for providing space beneath the cloth plate for the reception of such
mechanism is entirely obviated. At the side of the said needle bar I arrange
another slide bar carrying a hook, which, like the needle, operates in an upward
direction, and is moreover so arranged as to work at a slight outward angle to the
needle, thus securing greater certainty of retention of the loop. The hook slide is
actuated intermittently by the needle bar by being caused to partake of a portion
only of its motion, the advantage of such intermittent motion being the avoiding
of the liability to the tearing or breaking out of tender material upon the upper
side. For this purpose tappets or projections are provided on the hook slide with
which the needle bar comes in contact at the requisite period in its motion in both
directions.
The hook slide works on a guide block which is pivotted at its lower end to the
arm of the machine so as to admit of the hooked instrument being adjusted to
different angles relatively to the needle bar, the degree of the angle being thus
regulated as required for a longer or shorter stitch. It is obvious that the hook
slide may be operated from the needle slide by other devices than those herein before
described. The stitching is completed by a single looping instrument, which I
arrange at a suitable angle to the line of the shaft to cause the looping instrument
to engage the loop of the needle thread and pass it across or over the end of the
hook, so that in the descent of the needle the thread is drawn off the looper on to
the hook. This instrument is operated by a cam on the main shaft which actuates
a small arm attached to the said looper spindle, the said arm being maintained in
contact with the cam by means of a spring.
In connection with the arrangement of the arm I so dispose the feed bar that
its fulcrum is at the highest point of the head. The body of the feed bar extends
down in front of the face, and to its lower portion the feed surface is attached,
whilst from the upper part of the body depends a short arm provided with an
adjustable piece which bears upon an eccentric placed immediately behind the crank

page_text: disc, and is capable of being adjusted to regulate the height of the feed surface to
suit different kinds of material. The bar is pivotted to one or more sliding plates
forming guiding pieces, so that whilst the bar is free to rise and fall under the
action of the eccentric it is also capable of oscillation or pendulous motion upon
the said pivots. The pivots are arranged at such a position relatively to the
eccentric that a suitable rise and fall are obtained whilst the body of the feed bar
gives a long stitch.
I construct the feeding device so as to admit of a single feeding surface (similar
to those in general use) freely following by its own motions the curve of the work
when required.
For this purpose I provide on the underside of the feeding surface, at, say, about
one third of its length from the back end thereof, a stem or pin, which takes into
one end of a short arm; the other end of this arm is provided with a longer pin
which fits into a sleeve or socket conveniently formed on the end of the feed bar,
thus permitting freedom of side movement controllable only by the walls of the
opening of the cloth plate, the said opening being wider at the back end to such a
distance as may be found most convenient in practise, whilst the feed in its return
motion is guided by the said walls into its straight or true position, free to follow
the curvature of the work.
In certain classes of work, when difficult shapes are required to be stitched, a
double feed is used of the construction next hereinafter described.
I construct a bearing plate of thin steel or other metal, carrying at its outer end
one feed surface, termed the outer feed; on this plate at some distance from its end
a pivot is rivetted, upon which I fit a second plate or lever of thin metal carrying
another feed surface. The rear end of the latter plate or lever projects outwardly
towards the rear end of the feed bar carrier, and is provided with a spring which
keeps it somewhat extended from the said bar, and is further provided with a
small buffer at its extreme end. When ready to start to make the forward stroke
both feeds bear the same relation to each other. As the feed advances a stop or
other appliance conveniently adjusted is brought to bear against the rear end of
the second plate, thereby closing the end of the said plate or lever towards the
carrier. By this means I obtain a longer movement of this feed surface (which I
term the inner feed) according to the degree of closing of the rear end of its limb,
thus producing a lengthened stroke which is controllable at will.
The work guides are suitably carried by stems fitted into holes in the head of
the machine, and are adjusted by simply being drawn in or out to the extent
required.
In applying my Invention to machines of the class described in the Specification
to former Letters Patent granted to me dated Twenty eighth June, One thousand
eight hundred and seventy seven, Number 2503, I employ a double presser, so
arranged as to obtain the greatest "steadiment" without any attached spline. For
this purpose the casting (which may be of the usual form) is drilled at convenient
distances to contain spiral springs, and stops or plugs below and above them.
This casting so bored or drilled is slotted through from top to bottom a suitable
depth to receive two bars of thin steel side by side. These bars are slotted in the
middle to clear the spiral springs and the said plugs, which springs and plugs work
in the said slots. The top plug is kept in position by a small pin which passes
through the casting, thereby preventing the springs from pushing upwards; thus
when the bar is raised the spring acts upon the lower plug fitted into the slot and
gives pressure to the said bar, whilst the plug fitting the bored hole in the casing
serves for side "steadiment."
The looper is carried in a tube the walls of which are formed with an opening
for expanding the loop. To the looper is imparted a rolling motion towards the
advance direction of the work, which motion is obtained by a small eccentric on
the end of a spindle connected by a link to the feed bar mechanism in any
convenient manner so that the advance of the feed gives the rolling motion.

page_text: It is obvious that these improvements are also applicable to machines of a
different construction to that herein before referred to.
And in order that my said Invention may be fully understood, I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to
the several Figures on the annexed Sheets of Drawings, the same letters of reference
indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding Figures.
Figures 1, 2, and 3 of my Drawings represent respectively a front elevation, a
side elevation, and a plan of a sewing machine constructed according to my said
Invention; Figure 3a is a face view of the cam for working the looping instrument,
Figure 4 is a front elevation, Figure 5 a side elevation, and Figure 6 a plan of the
needle carrier and driver detached. Figures 7, 8, and 9 are similar views of my
pendulous feeding device with my free feed attached at the lower end thereof.
Figure 9 represents a modified construction of the upper end of the feed bar.
Figures 10, 11, and 12 represent respectively a side elevation, front elevation, and
plan of the barbed needle or hooked instrument and parts connected therewith.
Figures 13 and 14 are diagrams illustrating the relative positions of the straight
needle and the barbed needle or hooked instrument. Figures 15 and 16 are
respectively a side elevation and plan of my improved double feed device.
Figures 17 and 18 are respectively a side elevation and plan of my improved
double or compound presser, and Figure 19 is a side elevation of one of the presser
bars detached. Figures 20, 21, 22, 23, and 24 are detached views of my improved
looping instrument which will be hereinafter referred to.
Referring to Figures 1, 2, and 3, A represents the head of the machine, on the
lower end of which is formed the arm B carrying the cloth plate or feeding table
C. D, D', are adjustable guides fitted in holes in the head A, and maintained in
their adjusted position by set screws E, E', the object of these guides being to
regulate the distance of the row of stitches from the edges of the two materials to
be united. The materials (which are shewn in dotted lines in Figure 1) are fed
up to the needle, one beneath and the other above the horizontal separator plate
a, formed on the guide D, and thence beneath the presser foot F, which is provided
with the ordinary spring b for exerting pressure upon the material, and an eccentric
lifter c for removing such pressure as required.
The needle bar G which is shown detached in front elevation, side elevation, and
_plan respectively at Figures 4, 5, and 6, is provided at its lower end beneath the
cloth plate with a projecting arm d extending outwardly-through-a-slot-BLin-the-
arm B, and fitted at its outer end with a clamping device e in which the needle f
is secured with its point upwards. The needle bar is actuated from the shaft H by
means of a connecting rod I, the upper end of which is attached to a crank pin on
a disc K fast on the shaft H, whilst its lower end is attached to the needle bar
at g. By this arrangement the necessity for providing space in the arm B for
driving the needle is obviated, so that the arm may be made of the minimum
dimensions practicable and more convenient for shaping the article in the course of
manufacture. In close proximity to the needle f and working in an upward
direction in a similar manner but at an outward angle thereto is a barbed needle
or hooked instrument L (see Figures 10, 11, and 12) which is secured at its lower
end by means of a clamping piece h to a slide fitted to work in a block M
pivotted at to the arm B, Figures 1, 2, and 3. The angle of this hooked instru-
ment is capable of being varied according to the length of stitch required on the
top surface of the material by means of an adjusting screw N so as to cause the
block M to turn on the pivot k, and thereby move the upper or hooked end of
the instrument nearer to or farther from the path of the needle as required. In
the diagram, Figure 13, the hooked instrument is shewn parallel and almost in
contact with the needle, in which position it is impracticable to produce the stitch,
whilst in Figure 14 it is shewn at a suitable angle thereto for ordinary work. The
upper end of the hooked instrument may work through a guide or loop expander l
formed on a plate m fitted to slide in a groove in the block M behind the slide i.

page_text: The necessary rising and falling motions are imparted to the hooked instrument by
the arm & of the needle bar which in its up and down stroke comes in contact
respectively with a pin or tappet o and the clamp h on the slide i, the said pin or
tappet and the clamp being arranged at the necessary distance apart to cause the
hooked instrument subsequent to the penetration of the needle to rise above the
cloth plate through the material to remain stationary the requisite period to receive
the loop from the needle, and then after the partial descent of the needle to descend
again to complete the top stitch. The looping instrument which I employ is shewn
at O, in Figures 1, 2, and 3. It is fast on one end of a horizontal rocking shaft P
which is arranged at a suitable angle (say, about 30°) to the driving shaft H to
cause the nose q of the looper (which is formed with a depending lip to pass
between the needle and hook) in its forward motion to enter between the needle
(when in its elevated position) and the thread, so as to retain a loop of the thread
when the needle commences to descend and to conduct the loop across or into the
path of the hooked instrument L, on to which the loop is drawn by the further
descent of the needle. The hooked instrument L is then caused to descend and
carry the loop of thread with it beneath the fabric in readiness for the next stitch,
as will be hereinafter described. This arrangement of the looper admits of the
hooked instrument L working in closer proximity to the needle, whereby a shorter
stitch may be produced. The looping instrument is operated at the required
periods by means of a cam Q, Figures 2, 3, and 3a, acting on an arm R fast on the
opposite end of the rocking shaft P to that to which the looper o is fixed, the arm
being maintained in contact with the cam by a spring S. The material is fed
along by my free feeding (or any suitable feeding) device, which is shown in
position in Figures 1 and 2, and detached in Figures 7, 8, and 9, and which I
construct and arrange in the following manner :-
On the lower extremity of the pendulous feed bar T I provide a socket ? for the
reception of the depending from the underside of one end of a short arm 8, the
opposite end of which arm is also provided with a socket for the reception of a pin
or projection a fitted or formed on the underside of the serrated feeding piece or
surface U. By connecting the feeding surface to the bar T in the manner described
it is rendered free to follow any curved or irregular shape of the article to be
stitched or any direction or line of stitching required. The freedom of movement
of the serrated feeding surface is controlled only by the sides of the opening in the
cloth plate, which opening for that purpose is made wider at the back portion
thereof to any distance that may be found necessary in practice, whilst it is
contracted towards the front, and so as to cause the feed surface on its return
movement to resume its normal straight position.
The pendulous feed bar T is pivotted at its upper end to two plates V fitted to
slide vertically in the upper part of the head A. The upper end of the bar is also
provided with a short depending arm W fitted with an adjustable forked piece X,
with which an eccentric t fast on the shaft H engages, so as to impart the rising
and falling motions to the bar and sliding plates, and also a lateral motion to the
bar by causing it to oscillate on the pivots u. This eccentric is adapted to produce
the minimum rise and fall of the feed surface, whilst the maximum length of stitch
is obtained by suitably arranging the position of the pivots u relatively to the
eccentric t. In the example shown. in the Drawings the parts are so constructed
and arranged that the feed surface is caused to rise and fall at the necessary
periods to feed the material forward to produce a long stitch (of, say, 5ths of an
inch) on the underside thereof; the length of the stitches however are capable of
variation by cutting off the traverse of the feed bar by means of an adjusting
screw 2. If a longer stitch is required the pivots must be arranged nearer to the
eccentric in constructing the machine; or instead of employing the cut off screw v
the pivots u may be connected to the upper end of the pendulous bar T in the
manner shewn in Figure 9, so as to render them capable of being adjusted nearer
to the eccentric in order to increase the amount of feed, or further therefrom to
reduce the feed, the length of stitch being consequently greater or less accordingly.

page_text: The height to which the feeding surface is permitted to rise above the cloth plate
may be regulated as required to suit various thicknesses and descriptions of
materials by means of a screw w working in a lug x formed on the top of the feed
bar, the end of the screw controlling the rising motion of the forked piece on the
bar, and consequently the elevation of the serrated feed surface above the cloth
plate.
The machine operates in the following manner, videlicet:-
The thread is supplied from a reel or bobbin arranged on any suitable part of the
machine or table, and after passing through any suitable tension device (by
preference employing that known as Wilcox and Gibbs' automatic tension) it is
passed through a guide 1 in the clamping device e, thence through the eye of the
needle, which, together with the hooked instrument, should be then brought into a
position beneath the cloth plate or feeding table.
The two materials to be united are then placed on the cloth plate beneath the
presser foot, one above and the other beneath the separator plate a on the guide D,
and with their respective edges against the guides D and D'.
The material being placed in position with the presser foot bearing thereon,
motion is imparted from a treadle or otherwise to the shaft H; the needle then
commences to rise, and when it has made about one half of its up stroke the arm d,
by coming in contact with the stud or pin o on the slide i causes the said slide
with the hooked instrument to rise with the needle during the remainder of its up
stroke. The needle thus first pierces the material, and carries the thread above the
upper surface thereof, and the hook following the motion of the needle pierces the
material at a short distance therefrom. The needle then commences to descend,
causing the thread to bulge slightly and simultaneously with the descent of the
needle; the nose q of the looper O under the action of the cam Q is caused to
advance and enter between the needle and the thread, so as to retain a loop of
thread. The looper continues to advance until its point is immediately over the
hook L, when by the continued descent of the needle the loop of thread is drawn
from the nose g of the looper on to the hooked instrument L, which remains in its
elevated position until the needle has made about one third of its down stroke.
At about this point however the needle arm d comes in contact with the clamping
device on the hook slide, thereby causing the hook to descend during the
_ remainder of the down stroke_of_the_needle, and carry_with_it the loop of thread_
through the material and over the loop expander 1, when such is employed, the
loop expander in its normal position being maintained by a spring Q in contact
with the cloth plate to receive the loop of thread just before the hook has completed
its down stroke; however the clamping device on the hook slide comes in contact
with the pin m' on the lower end of the plate carrying the loop expander, causing
it to descend beneath the cloth plate.. A short stitch equal in length to the distance
between the needle and hook is thus formed on the upper surface of the material,
which material is now fed forward by the serrated feeding surface to a distance of,
say, about five eighths of an inch, or to any other distance to which the traverse of
the feeder bar is adjusted. The needle and the hook again rising pass through the
loop previously formed (and which now lies on the underside of the material), and
through the material as before described, thus completing the stitch on the under-
side thereof. The same operations are then repeated for the next stitch, and so on
continuously to any desired extent, a line of short stitches on the upperside and a
line of long stitches on the underside of the material being thus produced.
Figure 15 is a side elevation, and Figure 16 a plan of a portion of a feed bar
with my improved double or compound feeding device applied thereto; T is the
feed bar, to the outer end of which is secured a thin plate of steel & carrying the
outer serrated feed surface U. On this plate is pivotted at a another thin steel
plate or lever & provided with another serrated feed surface all, and with a tail
piece or projection 61 extending a short distance by the side and towards the rear
end of the feed bar T. A spring attached to the feed bar and acting upon the
tail piece tends to maintain the feed surface a" always in the same relative

page_text: position with reference to the feed surface U; in order however to cause the feed
surface U to move a greater distance, an adjustable stop c is fitted to any
convenient part of the machine, so as to be capable of being brought, when required,
within range of the end c¹¹ of the tail piece when the feed is at work, the stop
being suitably adjusted nearer to or further from the feed bar, so as to bear more
or less against the outer end c¹¹ of the tail piece b¹, according to the increase of feed
required by the serrated surface a". The end, e¹¹ is provided with a buffer of leather
or other suitable material to prevent wear and noise by its frequent contact with
the stop c¹.
In combination with this compound feeding device I may employ any suitable
construction of presser foot, but I prefer to use my improved double or compound
presser, illustrated by Figures 17, 18, and 19, which I shall now proceed to
describe; F, F¹, are two presser feet or pressing surfaces, which may be either
attached to or formed in one with their respective bars 3. These bars are made of
thin steel, and are each slotted at 4 for the reception of a helical spring 5 and two
plugs 6 and 7, one above and one below the spring.
The bars, together with their springs and plugs, are inserted in a slot or opening 8
formed in a cast metal or other bracket Y bolted to the bed plate or other suitable
part of the sewing machine.
The slots 8 extend from the top to the bottom of the bracket and correspond in
form to the horizontal section of the combined bars 3 and plugs 7, which are fitted
to slide freely therein.
The plugs 6 on top of the springs are fixed in the top of the slot 8 by pins 9
which pass through them and through the bracket, thereby forming a butt for the
ends of the springs to bear against when being compressed. The two pressers are
free to act independently of each other when bearing upon the material, the two
springs exerting their pressure irrespectively of each other on the plugs 7, but by
the act of elevating one of the pressers, say, for example, that marked F¹ (which is
provided with an ordinary lifter c for the purpose), the other presser F is also
simultaneously raised with it by a projection 10 on the one engaging with a
corresponding projection 11 on the other, as will be clearly understood by referring
to the Drawing. The two plugs 7 are by the elevation of the bars caused to slide
in the slot 8 and compress the springs 5 against the plugs 6, whilst the bars are
maintained perfectly steady in their action without any attached spline usually
employed, the bars themselves serving as splines having a bearing in the narrow
parts of the slot 8.
It is obvious that single pressers may be constructed in a similar manner to that
described with reference to the compound presser, so as to dispense with the
ordinary attached splines.
My improved looper, which is intended to be employed more particularly in
machines of the class described in the Specification to my former Letters Patent
No. 2503/", herein before referred to, but which is also applicable to other classes
of machines, is illustrated in Figures 20, 21, 22, 23, and 24. It consists of a
cylindrical rod or bar O provided on one end with a hook or projection q, and at
its opposite end with an annular groove O¹ for the reception of the forked end of
an arm Z for imparting a longitudinal motion to the said hook. A curvilinear
reciprocating or rocking motion is imparted to the hook by means of an arm y,
which is suitably connected to the feed bar of the machine to partake of its to and
fro motions, and is provided with a socket z engaging an eccentric pin y¹ on the
end of the bar O. This bar works in a tube Z which is provided with an opening
at x to admit of the expansion of the loop at the requisite period.
The looper operates in the following manner :-
The needle in its forward motion, carrying the thread with it, perforates the
material and enters a narrow slot or opening w¹ in the tube Z, and then recedes
slightly so as to slacken the thread. The looper bar O, under the action of a cam
on the driving shaft of the machine, is then caused to slide in the tube so as to
pass the hook q between the thread and the needle; and as the needle continues

page_text: to recede a loop of the thread is retained upon the hook q. The needle having
now been withdrawn from the fabric, the latter is fed forward the required distance
for the next stitch, and simultaneously with the forward motion of the feed bar a
rocking or rolling motion is imparted to the looper bar O by means of the arm y
pivotted thereto, whereby the loop retained on the hook q is opened out and
brought into a suitable position for the needle to enter when making its next
advancing motion. The needle then advances as before, and simultaneously there-
with the hook q is withdrawn from the loop along the tube by the arm Z in
readiness to engage with a fresh loop from the needle, and the operations before
described being repeated, a line of stitches of any desired length may be produced.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original,
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the hereinbefore in part
recited Letters Patent is,-
First. Actuating the needle of sewing machines (when arranged to work in an
upward direction from beneath the cloth plate) by mechanism situate outside the
arm, preferably above the cloth plate, so as to enable the arm of the machine to be
made of the minimum dimensions practicable for convenience in shaping the article
being manufactured, substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by my
Drawings.
Secondly. The application and use of a barbed needle or hooked instrument
fitted to work at an outward angle to the straight needle, substantially in the
manner and for the purpose hereinbefore described and illustrated by my Drawings.
Thirdly. Operating a barbed or hooked instrument intermittently from the
needle slide when such barbed or hooked instrument and the needle are arranged
to work either in the same direction or at an angle, substantially in the manner
and for the purpose hereinbefore described.
Fourthly. The application and use of a single looping instrument arranged at
such an angle to the driving shaft as to cause the nose of the looper when at work
to take a loop of thread from the needle and conduct it into a position to be drawn
off the looper by the descent of the needle on to the barbed or hooked instrument,
substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by my Drawings.
Fifthly. Pivotting the feed bar of sewing machines working with an under feed
to yielding or sliding supports in the head of the machine above the driving or
operating shaft, substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein before
described and illustrated by my Drawings.
Sixthly. Connecting the serrated feed surface to the feed bar by pivotting it to
an interposed link or arm jointed to the feed bar so as to admit of the feed surface
moving freely to accommodate itself to the curvature in the line of stitches to be
produced, substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by my Drawings.
Seventhly. A double or compound feeding device in which one of the feed.
surfaces is carried on a lever having its fulcrum on the carrier of the other feed
surface, and is controlled independently by an adjustable stop, substantially as
herein before described and illustrated by Figures 15 and 16 of my Drawings.
Eighthly. Constructing and arranging the pressers of sewing machines so as to
obtain the desired steadiness of action without the use of attached splines, substan-
tially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by my Drawings.
Ninthly. A looping device consisting of a looper contained in a slotted tube, and
having a combined longitudinal and rolling motion, substantially as hereinbefore
described and illustrated by Figures 20, 21, 22, 23, and 24 of my Drawings.
Tenthly. The combination with a straight needle fitted to work in an upward
direction from beneath the cloth plate of a sewing machine of a barbed needle or
hooked instrument a pendulous feed bar and a single looping device, the whole
being arranged to operate substantially in the manner hereinbefore described and
illustrated by my Drawings.
Eleventhly. The combination of the needle ƒ, the hooked instrument L, and the

page_text: looping instrument O, the whole arranged and operating substantially in the
manner hereinbefore described and illustrated by my Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Bland, have to this my Specification
set my hand and seal, this Twenty fourth day of December, One thousand
eight hundred and eighty one.
HENRY BLAND. (L.S.)