IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ORNAMENTING OF GARMENTS And 99
Year: 1871

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Francis Wanner, of Charles Street,
Middlesex Hospital, in the County of Middlesex, Embroiderer, for
the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ORNAMENTING OF GARMENTS And
99
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Francis Wanner
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 23rd October 1871.
I, JAMES FRANCIS WANNER, of Charles Street, Middlesex Hospital,
in the County of Middlesex, Embroiderer, do hereby declare the nature
of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ORNAMENTING OF GARMENTS
AND OF SILE, WOOLLEN, AND OTHER FABRICS," to be as follows:-
The object of this Invention is to effect an economy in the embroidery
of garments, and of silk, woollen, and other fabrics. To this end instead
of working the embroidery as heretofore on the fabric to be ornamented

page_text: I work upon a fine muslin ground repetitions of the Icaves, flowers, or
other devices intended to form the main portions of the embroidered
design. These devices or portions of the pattern I manufacture in the
piece by the ordinary and well-known means, but I surround each
device with a border line of work in order 1st to give them a binding
edge that will prevent ravelling when the devices are cut out, as they
are intended to be before applying them to the garment or fabric to be
ornamented, and 2ndly to provide a sunken line to receive and hide
the stitches used for attaching the embroidered devices to the garment
or fabric.
Before cutting out the devices I apply a stiffening composition to the
back of the embroidered muslin, and when dry I cut out the devices
with scissors or otherwise. These devices will in general form portions
of a continuous pattern, the remainder of which I complete by lines of
crotchet or other ornamental stitching produced by the use of the
machine for which I obtained Letters Patent, dated September 24th,
1868, No. 2938.
By this combination I am enabled to produce upon garments, upon
table cloths, curtains, and other like goods, patterns in embroidery equal
in appearance to hand work, with great expedition and economy, and to
vary the combinations to the parts (so as to obtain a variety of patterns)
indefinitely as in hand work.
In preparing the devices or portions of the pattern I choose for the
ground muslin of a colour corresponding to that of the silk or woollen
base to which the pattern is intended to be applied, to prevent any little
defect in the cutting out being visible.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said James Francis Wanner in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 23rd April 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES 3
FRANCIS WANNER, of Charles Street, Middlesex Hospital, in the County
of Middlesex, Embroiderer, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of October, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one, in the
thirty-fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said James Francis Wanner, Her special
licence that I, the said James Francis Wanner, my executors, dminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Francis
Wanner, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ORNAMENTING OF GARMENTS AND OF
SILK, WOOLLEN, AND OTHER FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said James Francis Wanner, my executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of

page_text: shew the peculiarity of a border line as already noticed. Hitherto the
embroidery produced on the Swiss machines has been of the character
illustrated by the leaf at Fig. 6, but being wrought as already stated on
the fabric intended to be ornamented, this character of work suffices for
the purpose. I found however that it was essential for the production
of good transfer work to form the same with a border line as indicated
by the leaf pattern Fig. 2, the bud pattern Fig. 3, the rose pattern
Fig. 4, and the star pattern Fig 5. This allows of the ground being cut
away close to the work without the work unravelling, and it provides
for what is also essential, namely, the biding of the line of stitches by
which the device is attached to the garment to be ornamented.
In carrying out my Invention I mark the silk or other fabric to be
ornamented with lines of chalk dusted through a pierced pattern paper,
and on these lines I work by means of the embroidery machine for which
I obtained Letters Patent, dated Twenty-fourth September, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-eight, No. 2938, a chain or crochet stitch
setting for the reception of the devices that are to complete the pattern.
These devices I then apply to the fabric and secure them in place by hand
stitching. The facility afforded by my machine to traverse the work under
the action of the needle or needles enables me to produce complex figures
of flowing lincs, as illustrated at Fig. 1. By these lines I not only
connect together the applied pieces of embroidery, but I form a setting
around such of these embroidered pieces as may be required to be
enriched by the same, and elaborate the pattern by additional scroll
work. Moreover where desired touches of handwork may be introduced
as indicated by the leaves on the rose buds to vary the character of the
work. By means of the combination of mechanical embroidery and
ornamental sewing above described it will be readily understood that I
am enabled to produce upon garments, table cloths, curtains, and other
like goods effects equal to handwork with economy and despatch, and
to vary the combinations of the devices so as to obtain a variety of
patterns indefinitely as in hand work.
Having now set forth the nature of my Invention of "Improvements
in the Ornamenting of Garments and of Silk, Woollen, and other Fabrics,"
3 and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish it to
be understood that under the above in part recited Letters Patent I

page_text: claim, the ornamenting of garments and fabrics by means of embroidery
wrought and applied in combination with ornamental stitching in the
manner above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Francis Wanner, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, the Twenty-third day of April, in 5
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
two.