IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING OR STITCHING MACHINES
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Samuel Chatwood, of 65, Cornwallis St., & 22,
South John St., Liverpool; also of 16, Hoghton St., Southport, in the
County of Lancaster, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING OR
STITCHING MACHINES."
Sealed the 31st July 1860, and dated the 2nd February 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Samuel- Chatwood at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
2nd February 1860.
I, SAMUEL CHATWOOD, of 65, Cornwallis St., & 22, South John St.,
Liverpool, also of 16, Hoghton St., Southport, in the County of Lancaster,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING OR STITCHING MACHINES," to be as follows, & consists in the construction
of the machine known as the shuttle machine in such a manner as to produce
two stitches to each reciprocation of the shuttle, one stitch by its forward
motion, and another by its return.
On the horizontal axis or shaft of the machine there is fixd a double cam,
disc, or other equivalent for working the needle & upper thread (either
by a lever or otherways) up & down twice, making two stitches for every
revolution of the shaft. To this double cam, disc, or to the end of the shaft,
there is a crank pin fixd, from which there is a connecting rod attached to
the shuttle carrying the lower thread. One stitch will be made by one half a

page_text: revolution of the shaft, causing the needle to pass down & up through the
work, whilst the shuttle is moved one way only; on another half turn being
given to the shaft, another dip & return of the needle takes place, the shuttle
is moved by the crank pin in the contrary direction to the former, and another
stitch is produced. The work is moved onward by suitable mechanical
appliances combind with the before-mentioned needle & shuttle.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Samuel Chatwood in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
2nd August 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SAMUEL
CHATWOOD, of 65, Cornwallis Street, and 22, South John Street, Liverpool, also
of 16, Hoghton Street, Southport, in the County of Lancaster, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Second day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-third year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Samuel Chatwood, Her special licence that I, the said Samuel Chat-
wood, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Samuel Chatwood, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING OR STITCHING MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that I,
the said Samuel Chatwood, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Samuel Chatwood, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement
My improvements in stitching or sewing machines refer to the kind known
as the shuttle or back stitching machine producing work both sides alike,

page_text: which improvements consist in a more simple arrangement of the working
parts than as present adopted, also in the use of a double action shuttle,
making a stitch at each movement.
The construction of this machine is fully delineated by the accompanying
Drawings, wherein Figure 1 shows a side elevation of the fixed arm and bent
lever, but is a section below; Figure 2 is a front end of the machine;
Figure 3 is a back end ditto; Figure 4 is a top or bird's-eye view of the fixed
arm of the machine, and a working or needle lever; Figure 5 is a plan, just
beneath the top of the frame; Figure 6 is a cross section of the frame,
showing the revolving shaft, hand, or other wheel, cams for moving needle and
shuttle, &c.; Figure 7, a side view of the needle cam; Figure 8, a side view
of the cam for moving the shuttle. All these views or figures are one half the
real size. Figure 9 is a full size plan of part of the shafts for feed motions;
Figure 10 shows a plan of the propellor or feed plate; and Figure 11 is a
side view of the feed plate looking in the direction of the length of the
machine.
A is the arm, fixed in the frame or bed B; C is a bent lever for moving
the needle working on a pin at D, projecting from the fixed arm; E is a cam
for working the needle, having a sunk groove on the side; F is the shuttle
cradle and slide bar; G, G, are rollers on the slide bar; H is the shuttle cam;
I are projecting studs for moving the feed plate; J, J, are tappet fingers;
K is the shuttle for carrying the under thread; L is the feed plate; M, M, is
the internal rocking shaft; N is an external ditto; O is the needle slide bar ;
P is the face plate, grooved on the back for guiding the needle bar and foot
bar; Q is the foot bar; R is a tension spring; S is a lever for lifting the foot
bar; T is a V-grooved tension pulley; U is an eyelit stud; V, thumb-screw
top'd into a boss on the needle bar for fixing the needle W; x is a name
plate; X is another cyclit stud; Y, Y. are milled edge nuts for regulating
the feed motion; Z is a spool for containing the needle thread. The number 1
represents a bracket, for supporting the slide bar F; No. 2 is an iron V-driving
pulley; No. 3, 3, are studs projecting from this pulley; No. 4 is the cross
shaft; No. 5 is the fly or hand wheel.
The lower
Having marked out the various parts in this machine, the positions and
operations will be as follows:-The V-pulley No. 2, the cam E, the cam H,
and the hand wheel 5 are securely fixed on the cross shaft No. 4.
end of the bent lever C is furnished with a roller 11 to turn on a pin fixed in
its lower end, and to run in the sunk groove of the cam E. The other end
of this lever C is open to receive a stud W fixed to the needle bar O. The
cradle F works in the shuttle race No. 10. On the side of this slide bar or

page_text: cradle F are two pins projecting, on which the rollers G, G, revolve by contact
with the cam H. The shuttle K, with thread, is placed in the cradle F.
The upper thread is brought from the spool Z around the V-pulley T, then
through the eyelits U, X, R, and X; and next through the eye of the needle.
The brass plate is next put in, covering the shuttle. The work to be sewed
or stitched is placed in its proper position, with the foot bar pressing down
upon it by means of a spring. The rocking shafts M and N in the frame are
for moving the propellor, having the tappit fingers No. 16, 6, 6; and J, J; the
shaft M having its tappit at the back end
studs 3 fixed in the grooved pulley No. 2.
two other tappits also marked 6, working
Figure 10; in which is fixed a cross stud 9, one end of which is beviled, the
other end being square; one end of the feed plate has a slot hole to allow its
being pushed endways, or its other end sideways, to produce the required
amount of feed. The outer end of the rocking shaft M is furnished with
milled head nuts to regulate the distance of stitches when the work is moved
in the direction of the 'length of the machine. The distance or pitch of the
stitches is regulated when the work is being moved across the machine by the
set screw No. 7, see Figures 1 and 2.
fixed, so as to be moved by the
The front end of this shaft has
on each side of the feed plate,
To set this machine into operation and to produce a stitch, the handle is
turned through one half a revolution, by which means the cam E working
against the pulley 11 (on the end of the bent lever), brings the needle down
through the material under operation to the full extent of its stroke, after
which (by the peculiar form of the pulley groove in the cam) the needle is
then brought up, leaving thread below the brass plate, which forms itself into
a loop, through which the shuttle passes. After the shuttle has passed through
the loop, the cam will have passed through the concentric part of the groove,
which produces a pause in the ascent of the needle; the cam being still turned
to the extent of half a revolution, will bring the roller No. 11 into the position
from which it started at first. The next stitch will be produced in the same
way by the other half of the cam. The movement of the shuttle is as
follows: Supposing the machine to be at rest, the shuttle to be out or to the
left, as seen at Figure 1, on the handle being turned in the direction of the
arrows (Figures 7 and 8), the cam H will push against the roller at the back
end of the sliding cradle, pushing it into the direction of the dotted lines, and
thereby drawing the shuttle into its inner position, during which time the
needle passes to its lowest position. The propelling in stitching across the
machine is effect as follows:-The tappit lever 16 comes against the side of
the right hand stud 9, pushing it in the direction of the arrow 20 (Figure 10);

page_text: after this the tappit J presses on the flat part of the feed plate at 21, depressing
it to clear the cloth; the tappit lever 16 at this time will have left the stud 9;
the feed plate will then return by the action of a spring, the screw No. 7
regulating the stitch. In stitching in the direction of the length of the
machine, the tappit lever 6 on the left hand is allowed to come in contact with
the left hand bevil end of the stud 9, see Figure 10, by the milled nuts Y, Y,
being turned back more or less, according to the pitch of stitch required. In
this case the serrated end of the propeller is moved in the direction of the
arrow 22 only, its other end being held in its position by the screw in the slot
hole as a pivot. It will be observed that this propeller L lays across the inner
shaft, and for perspicuity is omitted in the Figure 5. The propelling
apparatus is herein described and shown in the lower frame only, but the same
principle of construction may be adopted in putting the rocking shafts above
by the side of the fixed arm horizontally, the only difference being that the
levers or tappits will require to be longer.
Having now described the nature and object of my Invention, and the
manner in which it is constructed, and also the mode of its application, I do
not confine myself to the precise details herein described, as they may be
modified to suit different classes of work to which it may be applied without
departing from the general elements of construction; but I claim as my
Invention,
First, using a shuttle in combination with a straight needle to produce a
firm & lasting stitch at each forward or backward motion, or two stitches to
each reciprocation of the shuttle, with the cam and method of using the
same..
Secondly, the construction herein set forth for moving the material, to be
sewn either across the machine or longitudinally; also the use of the tension
pulley T.
In witness whereof, I, the said Samuel Chatwood, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Second day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty.
SAMUEL CHAT WOOD. (L.S.)