Improvements in Sewing and Embroidering and in Machines Employed therein.
Year: 1888

page_text: Improvements in Sewing and Embroidering and in Machines
Employed therein.
I, LEONARD LINDLEY of Sherwood Street in the Town and County of the Town of
Nottingham, Lace Dyer and Dresser, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to
be as follows:-
:-
.
The invention relates to the class of sewing machines used for embroidering, edge
sewing, whipping and fringing and has for its object the weaving of tape or braid,
simultaneously with the sewing (or producing ornamental sewing to imitate tape or
braid) and also for combining the same with edge fringing.
For this purpose I use a machine such as that described in the specification of
Letters Patent granted to Leonard Lindley and Frederick Taylor numbered 957 of
the year 1862 and in order to produce the appearance of tape or braid on the
apper side of the edge sewing I arrange a number of extra threads or warp threads
in a line with the two needles. These warp threads are carried by guides having
an up and down motion similar to the needle bar, and are so arranged as to make
at every stitch (or when desired) a shed for the passage of the thread carried by
the guide which traverses in front of the two needles. This thread is used as the
weft and by the operation of the machine is interwoven with the warp threads.
Thus the space between the two needles is filled up, partly, as in the original
machine by the thread which traverses between the two needles, and partly by the
extra warp thread interwoven therewith, and parallel with the sewing threads.
In some cases the braid like weaving will not be confined to the space between the
two needles but may be extended on either side as desired in which case the warp
guides are suitably arranged to deliver the warp threads in the desired position, whilst
if desired the braid like weaving may be produced on both sides of the fabric.
Dated this 21st day of February 1888.
LEONARD LINDLEY.
By Harris & Mills,
23, Southampton Buildings,
Agents.

page_text: Improvements in Sewing and Embroidering and in Machines
Employed therein.
I, LEONARD LINDLEY of Sherwood Street, in the Town and County of the Town of
Nottingham, Lace Dyer and Dresser, do hereby declare the nature of this invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The invention relates to the class of sewing machines used for embroidering, edge-
sewing, whipping, and fringing, and has for its object the weaving of tape or braid
simultaneously with the sewing (or producing ornamental sewing to imitate tape or
braid) and also for combining the same with edge fringing.
For this purpose I use a machine such as that described in the Specification of
Letters Patent granted to Leonard Lindley and Frederick Taylor, numbered 957
of the year 1862, and, in order to produce the appearance of tape or braid on the
upper side of the edge sewing, I arrange a number of extra threads or warp threads
in a line with the two needles. These warp threads are carried by guides, having an
up and down motion similar to the needle bar, and are so arranged as to make, at
every stitch, (or when desired) a shed for the passage of the thread carried by the
guide, which traverses in front of the two needles. This thread is used as the weft,
and, by the operation of the machine, is interwoven with the warp threads.
Thus the space between the two needles is filled up, partly, as in the original
machine, by the thread which traverses between the two needles, and partly
by the extra warp threads interwoven therewith and parallel with the sewing
threads.
And in order that my said invention may be more clearly understood and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed, aided by the accompanying drawings, more fully to
describe the same.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a side elevation, Figure 2 is a front elevation, and Figure 3 is a plan of
a sewing and embroidering machine with my present improvements applied thereto.
Figure 1* is an elevation of the opposite side of the head to that shown in Figure 1.
Figure 4 is a plan with the " arm and parts carried thereby removed. Figure 5 is
a longitudinal section, showing the cam and parts for operating the traversing guide.
Figure 6 is a cross section showing parts for operating the finger which acts to hold
the extended weft or fringe at the required distance from edge of work.
Figure 7 is an elevation partly in section drawn full size and representing the warp
guides, two needles, presser foot and work plate, and Figure 8 is a plan of figure 7
with the addition of the end of the traversing weft guide; the weft or fringe holding
finger, work, and work plate.
In all the figures like parts are indicated by similar letters of reference.
a represents the frame, 6 the arın, and the head of the machine. c. d. are two
revolving shafts; the lower shaft c carries the cam e, in which works a roller f¹
attached to, and giving a reciprocating motion to, the sliding bary. The sliding bar f
moves between the stationary guides a¹ a', and carries, on a screw stud or pin f, the
weft thread guide lever g.

page_text: The nose or guide g₁at the end of the lever g has a compound motion, that is,
a vibrating motion caused by the guide lever 9 rocking on the stud or axis f',
and a reciprocating motion received from the sliding bar f. This vibrating motion
may be obtained in various ways, and the distance the nose or guide g₁ travels,
may be varied to any required extent, so as to assist in forming either a plain
weaving at the edge of the fabric, or, by extending the weft thread beyond the
edge of the fabric, to form a weaving in combination with a fringe. The mode I
have found to answer for giving the vibrating motion to the nose or guide g¹ is that
shown in the drawings, in which the cranked end of the guide lever g is provided
with a roller, which runs to and fro in the cam groove h¹ formed in the fixed
plate h. Thus, as the guide lever g is moved to and fro by the sliding bar f, it is also
caused to rock on its axis f by the roller working in the cam groove h¹, thereby
causing the nose or guide g¹ to carry its thread round the thread passing from the eye
pointed needle i.
On the shaft c is the cam j, which acts on a roller j', carried by the tail of the
rocking hook bar, at the proper time to cause the hook to move forward and take
the loop from the side of eye pointed needle i, and pass it over, or in the way of, the
point of the crochet needle k.
,
The hook is made fast to the bar, which rocks on supporting centre screws
and it is withdrawn from the path of the needles, into the position shown in the
drawings, by the spring . The hook is made of the shape shown so as to hold the
loop of the needle i open, and allow the crochet needle to pass through said loop
without danger of missing. is a bar which slides freely in slots in the framing a;
it is moved by a cam or wiper on the shaft c, which strikes against the projection 13
on the downwardly projecting arm of the sliding har 1; a spring
keeps the
projection up against the cam or wiper l' on the shaft c, and the presser plate is
adjustably attached to the bar by a screw 1, as shown, or by other suitable means,
so that it may be placed in proper relation with the crochet needle k for closing its
barb or eye without bending or breaking the said needle.
The eye pointed needle i and the crochet needle k are attached to one sliding
needle bar m, but the point of the eye pointed needle i is at a greater distance
from the work table a2 than the point of the crochet needle k, to allow time for
the action of the hook and the guide g. g'. The work is propelled by means of the
holder or presser foot n, which receives its motion from a cam or eccentric on the
revolving shaft d, as is well understood, but any suitable arrangement of top feed may
be employed. The feeding and presser foot n extends a short distance in front of the
needles, so that it steps on, and holds, the thread or threads from the guide g¹ during
the tightening of the stitch.
The arrangement of parts above described is very similar to that, for embroidering
or sewing over the edges of fabrics, shown and described in the specification herein-
before referred to, and which is now well understood, the main difference being, that,
in the present caso, the guide g. g' is represented as having a longer reciprocating
motion given to it than in the former case.
I will now describe those parts of the machine which constitute my present
improvements, which have for their object, the weaving of tape or braid simul-
taneously with the over edge sewing or embroidering (or producing ornamental
sewing or embroidery to imitate tape or braid) and also for combining the same with
edge fringing.
o. p. are two sets of guides, those of one set being placed slightly in advance
of the other, and intermediate thereof. These guides o. p. are fixed to slides o' p¹
provided with rollers o² p² which rest on cams o³ p³ fixed on a counter shaft 4,
by which, assisted by springs of p, they receive a rising and falling motion. These
motions of the guides o. p. are so arranged that, when the guides o are in the
raised position, the guides p are in the lowered position.
These guides o. p. are supplied with warp threads op and, according to the arrange-
ment shown in the drawings, they are so operated as to make, at every stitch, a shed
for the passage of the thread g³ carried by the guide g', which thread is used as the

page_text: weft, and, by the operation of the machine, is interwoven with the warp threads of p.
The thread 9 may also, when desired, as shown in the drawings, be extended to form
a fringe by the same operation.
The counter shaft. q, as shown in the drawing, receives motion from the shaft d by
toothed pinion d' and toothed wheel q', so as to cause the guides o. p. to form a shed
for the passage of the thread from the guide g at every stitch, but, if desired, the
pinion d¹ and toothed wheel g¹ may be differently proportioned, so as to cause a shed
to be formed at other desired intervals.
The thread from the guide g¹ is held, at the point required to produce the
desired length of fringe, by means of a spring finger r, which, at the times required,
is caused to descend on to the work plate a and, by its point, to form a guide,
around which the thread g' is carried in the advance of the guide g. g. This
downward motion of the spring finger is given by means of a cam² on the
shaft c, which acts on a roller ³ carried by an arm from a slide 2. This slide, at its
upper end, is provided with an arm which extends over the spring finger r and
depresses the same at the required times, a spring being employed to keep the
roller up to its cam 22.
The spring finger can be adjusted so as to regulate the length of fringe produced.
or, by throwing it out of action, the machine may be caused to produce a tape or
braid like weaving without producing a fringe.
8
The threads, 9, 0, p, are passed through guides and tension apparatus f, as is
well understood, to put the required tension on the threads.
By the means herein described the space between the two needles i. k. is filled up,
partly, as in the original machine, by the throad i¹, and partly by the warp threads o' p
interwoven therewith, and parallel with the sewing threads.
In some cases the braid like weaving will not be confined to the space between the
two needles i. k, but, when producing simply a braid like weaving without a fringe, it
may be extended, by one or more warp threads, on the outside of the crochet needle k
beyond the edge of the fabric, when such warp thread or threads will be bound in by
the weft thread, in which case the warp guides o. p will be suitably arranged to
deliver the warp threads in the desired position.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
1 claim is :-
1. In a sewing and embroidering machine of the character herein described, the
employment of warp guides o. p. and apparatus connected therewith, in combination
with a traversing reciprocating guide 9. g' and with or without a spring finger 7,
substantially as herein shown and described and for the purpose stated.
2. In sewing and embroidering machines the employment of warp and weft threads
operated by guides in such manner as to produce a tape or braid like weaving
substantially as herein described.
3. In sewing and embroidering, the combination of warp threads and weft threads
interwoven with each other to produce a tape or braid like weaving simultaneously
with edge sewing, and either with or without an edge fringe substantially as herein
described.
Dated this 21st day of Novamban thie