Improvements in Apparatus for use in Cutting Dresses, Coats, and other Garments.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 17th Nov., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 8th Jan. 1891-Accepted, 28th Mar., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for use in Cutting Dresses, Coats, and
other Garments.
We, HENRY Samuel DeffeTT BRAYN, of 4, Oaklands Grove, Shepherd's
Bush, Advertising Agent, THOMAS FIELD, Gentleman, and THOMAS FIELD,
Junior, Publisher, both of 110, Petherton Road, Highbury, DANIEL SPITTAL,
of 4, Oaklands Grove, Shepherd's Bush, Foreman Boot and Shoe Maker, and
JOSEPH TIMMS, of 125, Uxbridge Road, Shepherd's Bush, Baker, all in the
County of London, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
:-
This invention relates to apparatus for use in cutting garments to measure
without the necessity for fitting, the said apparatus being especially applicable for
use in cutting ladies dress bodices, jackets and the like.
In carrying out the said invention we employ open frames having extending
across them bars on which the various measurements. are taken. In practice some
or all of these bars are advantageously hinged at one end in order that they may
be adjusted to cut garments for persons of different build, for instance, high
shouldered or low shouldered persons.
The frames designed for use in cutting the front and back portions of a dress
bodice or the like are provided with a cross bar sliding at its ends upon the frame,
and adapted to be adjusted according to the length of waist. This sliding bar is
formed with a number of sliding pieces for adjustment for waist measurement and
for the measurement of the darts.
The said bars are suitably graduated so that corresponding points on the several
bars can be readily ascertained and in practice the said bars are preferably slotted.
The frames may be curved or shaped at various parts or separate curves may be
employed for facilitating the marking of the various curved lines on the materials
to be cut.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION,
Improvements in Apparatus for use in Cutting Dresses, Coats, and
other Garments.
We, HENRY SAMUEL DEFFETT BRAYN, of 4, Oaklands Grove, Shepherd's
Bush, Advertising Agent, THOMAS FIELD, Gentleman, and THOMAS FIELD,
Junior, Publisher, both of 110, Petherton Road, Highbury, DANIEL SPITTAL,
of 4, Oaklands Grove, Shepherd's Bush, Foreman Boot and Shoe Maker, and
JOSEPH TIMMs, of 125, Uxbridge Road, Shepherd's Bush, Baker, all in the
County of London, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what
mauner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to apparatus for use in cutting garments to measure, the
said apparatus being especially applicable for use in cutting ladies' dress bodices,
jackets and the like.
In carrying ont the said invention we employ open frames having extending
across them bars on which the various measurements are taken. In practice some
or all of these bars are advantageously hinged at one end in order that they may

page_text: be adjusted to cut garments for persons of different build, for instance, high
shouldered or low shouldered persons.
The frames designed for use in cutting the front and back portions of a dress
bodice or the like are each provided with a cross-bar sliding at its ends upon the
frame, and adapted to be adjusted according to the length of the waist. The
sliding bar of one frame is formed with a number of sliding pieces for adjustment
for waist measurement and for the measurement of the darts.
The frame for sleeves is also provided with an adjustable bar.
The said bars are suitably graduated so that corresponding points on the several
bars can be readily ascertained and in practice the said bars are preferably slotted.
The frames may be curved or shaped at various parts or separate curves may be
employed for facilitating the marking of the various curved lines on the materials
to be cut.
To enable our invention to be fully understood we will describe the same with
reference to the accompanying drawings, in which :-
Figure 1 is a view of the frame or apparatus for use in cutting backs and sides
of dresses:
Figure 2 is a view of the frame or apparatus for use in cutting fronts; and,
Figure 3 is a view of the frame or apparatus for use in cutting sleeves:
Figures 4 and 5 are views of curves the use of which is hereinafter described:
Figure 6 is a view shewing body measurements suitable for our apparatus; and,
Figures 7, 8, 9 and 10 are views illustrating the method of operating our
apparatus.
A is the frame for marking ont the back and side pieces and hereinafter referred
to as the "back frame," the said back frame being provided with the fixed bar A¹
and with the bars A2 AA hinged or pivoted at one end and at the other having
studs adjustable in slots A, A, A and with the sliding bar A³.
B is the frame for marking out the fronts and hereinafter referred to as the
"front frame," B', B2, B³, B and B being the bars of the said front frame corre-
sponding with the bars A', A, A, A, A of the frame A, the sliding bar B being
provided with the sliding pieces B, B² and B³.
C is the frame for marking out the sleeves and hereinafter referred to as the
sleeve frame, the said frame having the adjustable pieces or sliding bars ("
and C².
D and E are curves the use of which is hereinafter described.
Suitable clamping rivets or screws such for instance as shewn in Figure 1,
are provided for fixing the various bars in any position in which they may be
placed, and various scales are printed or marked on the various frames and bars,
which scales are indicated by numerals.
In order that the operation of the apparatus may be clearly understood we will
assume measurements (the positions of which will be seen by reference to Figure 6)
13 follows:-

page_text: draw a straight line u to represent the waist line. Now take the back frame A,
Figure 1, and fix the slide A at 8 (the under-arm measure) in the scales 6 and 7 and
the bars A and A4 in the required positions in their slots to suit the length of
shoulder required, that is to say, to the top, bottom or any intermediate position in
the slots A A. (It is not necessary to move the bar A, except in special cases.)
Now place the back frame so that the top of the sliding bar A corresponds with or
rests upon the waist line a and mark on the paper points b, c at the arrow heads FG
on the bar A; and also mark points d, e at 36 in the slots of the scales 3 and 4 on
the bars A', A. Next measure up the centre back lines from the point b, by means
of a rule the length of 16 inches which will in this case correspond with the number 36
on the scale 1, at which point mark, a line being drawn between ↳ and ƒ. Also
mark the point at 36 in scale 2 on the bar A¹. Now with the curved portion of
the back frame marked "neck" connect the points f g and with the curve marked
"shoulder" the points g, d, the arrow H on the said curve being midway between
the said points, also with the curve marked "arm-hole" connect the points d, e.
Now take the dart curve E, Figure 5, and with the head of the arrow I resting on
the point e draw a line to connect e and c. Next place the dart curve so that the
head of the arrow. thereon rests on the point cand the arrow K on the centre back
line and draw a line c, h, and then with the head of the arrow J resting on the
point and the arrow L resting on the centre back line draw the line b, i. The
back pattern is now completely drawn and may be cut out.
In cases where the length of the back does not reach or exceeds the figures
corresponding to the bust measure in scale 1, move the back frame up or down until
the figures corresponding with the bust measure coincide with the point findicating
the length of the back. This movement to be made before marking the point g.
To mark out the pattern for the side piece shewn in Figure 8, the back frame is
also made use of. In this case make a point j four inches from the point c on the
waist line and place the said frame so that the arrow G on the bar A has its head
resting on the point j. Now mark points k,l at 36 in scales 4 and 5 of the bars A³, A*
and at scale 9 on the bar A mark a point m at 24 (waist measurement). Now with
the curve marked "arm-hole "draw a line between the points k, land with the dart
curve E the head of the arrow I of which rests on the point draw a line between
the points and m. Then with the point of the arrow i resting on the point k draw
a line between the points & and j. Next extend the line k, j, as shewn in the figure,
to the point n and then with the head of the arrow M of the dart curve resting on
the point m, the end of the said dart curve being level with the waist line draw the
curve m, 0. This completes the marking out of the side-piece.
To mark out a front pattern as shewn in Figure 9 take the apparatus marked B
(Figure 2) and set the slide B so that the distance between the point 36 on the
scale 2 of the bar B' is 16 inches (that is to say 18 inches less 14 inches allowed on
back neck) from the nearest end of the said sliding bar B (also fix the bars B², B¹
at the top, bottom, or any intermediate position in their slots according as to
whether a short or long shoulder or a shoulder of intermediate length is required,
the bar B³ only being used under special circumstances). Now measure 8 inches
(that is to say 8 inches which is the under-arm measure plus an inch which must
always be allowed for rise behind shoulder) from the point 36 on the bar B* to the
other end of the bar B and fix the said bar at this point. Now place the apparatus
so that the bar B corresponds with or rests upon the waist line and mark the
point p at the arrow O on the said bar B and from the point p measure 13 inches
up the centre front line and mark a point g. Next mark points r, s, t, u at the
points 36 on the scales 2, 3, 4 and 5, and the points, at the two holes P, Q.
Now without moving the frame shift the dart slide B to 24 (waist measure) in
scale g then move the dart slide B' to 24 in scale 9. Next bring the slide B8 to 24
in scale 10 and then at the arrow points R. S on the dart slides B, B' mark
points x, y:
also mark points, at the arrows on the dart space V and
points at the arrows on the seam space 1 of the slide B³. Further mark a
point at 24 in the scale 11. Now draw the centre front line between the points p
:

page_text: and 9: with the curve marked "neck" draw the line between the points 9 and r, and
with the curve marked "shoulder" a line between the points and s. Next remove
the front frame and with the arm curve D, Figure 4, the arrow point Z of which
rests on the point t draw the arm-hole line from the points to the point t, and with
the arrow still resting on the point the remainder of the arm-hole line between the
points and . Also mark points and f¹ for the under arm seam in the two
notches in the curve D. Now take the dart curve E and with the arrow I
resting on the point u draw a line to the point d' also draw straight lines between
the points e, and, c. Now with the arrow N of the dart curve resting on the
point draw a line between the points and y, then turn over the dart curve and
with the same arrow point on the point we draw a line between the points, a¹.
Repeat this operation to obtain the front dart lines, and v, z. Now divide the
spaces between the points e', and ' c¹ and draw a straight line through the
points ',,, also divide the spaces between the points, and a¹y at j I'
respectively, and draw straight lines through the points . j and wo, k¹ to m², n
respectively. With the dart curve turned over and with wide end thereof level with
the waist line draw the hip line from a to o, also draw straight lines from the
points to. Now with the arrow N of the dart curve on the pointy draw a line
between the said point and a point a quarter of an inch from the point n', then
reverse the dart curve and draw a line from the point a' to a point a quarter of an
inch on the other side of the said line. Repeat this operation for the points a, z.
Lastly with the arrow J of the dart curve resting on the point p, and the arrow «
resting on the centre front line p, 7 draw the front skirt line from p to p'.
To mark out a sleeve pattern take the apparatus C, Figure 3, and move the
shoulder slide C¹ to correspond with the long arm measure (12 inches) in scales 12
and 13, and the cuff slide to the short arm measure (8 inches) in scales 14 and 15,
takin care to let the arrow D' on the cuff slide C² correspond with the centre
of the slot on the bar E. Now mark off the shoulder measure (14 inches)
in scale 17 and at arrow point 16 on the shoulder slide at points g, r, also mark a
point at the arrow F on the slide C. Now draw a line between the points s',
with the curve marked "under arm." Next mark off the cuff measure (8 inches) in
scale 19 and at arrow point 18 on the cuff slide C² by points t', ' and in the centre of
the slot of bar El mark a point ¹. Now mark off points in the slots G, H'
the elbow measure (11 inches) and through the hole I in the elbow measure bar
mark a point y'. Now with the curve marked "inside arm "draw through the
points, a line and with the curve marked "over arm curve arrow point 20
resting on W and Y' respectively draw lines hetween the points, wl; 10', '; ',3',
and and with a straight rule draw lines between the points ', and ', r³.
Then with the sleeve curve D the arrow point 21 resting on the point y', draw the
shoulder curve line q' and rº¹.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
Apparatus for use in cutting dresses and the like, comprising a series of frames
provided with pivoted and sliding bars, substantially as, and for the purpose
described.
the 8th day of January 1891.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicants.