Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Oct., 1899
Complete Specification Left, 20th June, 1900—Accepted, 21st July, 1900
A communication from abroad by DOUGLAS HORACE BRANDON, of 59, Rue de
Provence, Paris.
I, WILLIAM LLOYD WISE, of 46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of London,
Consulting Engineer and Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
1
This invention has relation to sewing machines adapted generally for pro-
ducing felled seams, and particularly for sewing cut knitted goods or hosiery.
As is well known, the cut edges of knitted goods curl or roll up, rendering it
difficult to hem such goods, and prior to my invention it has been proposed to
overcome this difficulty. by combining with suitable stitch forming appliances
a suitable hemmer and appliances for uncurling the edges of the goods before
said edges are folded over and presented to the stitch forming appliances.
My invention has for its object a construction of sewing machine whereby
the described appliances are dispensed with, but which is simple in so far as
its operative mechanism is concerned, not more liable to get out of repair than
any ordinary sewing machine, and whereby flat and pliable simple felled seams,
or what is known as the French felled seam may be produced.
:-
Referring to the accompanying drawings:-
Figs. 1 and 3 are side elevations, partly in section and showing the stitch
forming appliances in different positions, and Fig. 2 is an end elevation of a
sewing machine embodying my invention. Fig. 4 is a detail side elevation
illustrating more clearly the presser foot, the work or needle-plate, and the
guide for the felling needle, the parts being shown in their respective positions
illustrated in Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a plan view partly in section, of the parts
shown in Fig. 4, the knife being removed, and Figs. 6, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are seam
sections on a larger scale, Fig. 6 illustrating the manner in which the sewing
is done in existing two-needle machines for producing a double or French
felled seam in one operation applied to woven materials only, Fig. 6 illustrating
the manner in which sewing is done generally in the case of knit goods; Fig. 7
illustrating the manner in which a French felled seam is produced on my
improved machine, Fig. 8 showing the material unfolded after removal from
the machine, and Fig. 9 illustrates a simple felled seam also produced on my
improved machine by dispensing with one of the needles.
Referring to Figs. 1, 2 and 3, A indicates the frame of the machine, which may
be of any desired and suitable shape and construction for carrying the operating
parts; a is the bed plate, and a is the needle- or work-plate.
B is the driving shaft which is suitably carried in the lower part of the
frame A underneath the bed-plate a and carries at its outer end the usual
driving pulley b. This shaft B carries a spherical eccentric next to
the pulley b. and which works in an eccentric strap C of corresponding
shape formed on the lower end of a connecting rod C. the upper end
of which is formed by a second strap c¹ that embraces a ball D. This ball is

page_text: connected by means of a screw-threaded tail-piece and of a lock-nut d' to
a bent or bell-crank lever E for operating the needle bars. This lever is keyed
on a conical axle e, which is journalled in any suitable manner on the frame A
of the machine, and it is oscillated from shaft B through the mechanism above
described namely the eccentric ', ball-bearing D, and connecting rod C. To
the free end of the upper arm e of the bent lever E is pivoted one end of a
link, whose other end is pivoted to a sleeve f fast on the needle-bar F,
which, as shown in the drawings, is arranged obliquely. This needle-bar F
reciprocates in guides a², on the frame A, and carries at its lower end the
needle f which is fixed thereto in any suitable or usual manner.
G is the felling needle-bar, which, like the needle-bar F is arranged obliquely
and reciprocates in guides at, as of the frame A. The needle-bar G carries a
sleeve analogous to the sleeve f to which is pivoted at g' one end of a con-
necting rod 2, the other end of which is pivoted to the free end of the lever
arm of the lever E. At the lower end the needle-bar carries the felling
needle which is secured thereto in any suitable OP usual manner.
fis the thread for the needle f¹, and gt is the thread for the needle g³.
These threads pass over suitable tension devices and through guiding eyes, as
shown, which do not form any part of the invention, as they may be of
known construction and arrangement and need therefore not be described in
detail.
any
h and indicate respectively a looper co-operating with the needle f¹ and
a looper co-operating with the felling needle g. These two loopers are mounted
on a support or frame H on which they oscillate lengthwise of the bed-plate
or in planes at right angles to the planes of reciprocation of the needle-bars but
in the opposite direction to each other about the rockers 2 and respectively.
The frame H is suitably journalled in fixed bearings A', A2, A3 in such. a
manner as to be capable of oscillation in a direction cross-wise of the bed-plate
under the action of an eccentric which is mounted on the driving shaft B
and operates in a fork on the looper support H, which is secured to suitable
spindles S and S for the purpose, as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 3.
The longitudinal oscillatory movement on their rockers 2 and 3 is imparted
to the loopers hand h¹ respectively by means of connecting rods and h
which are jointed at one of their ends to the tails of the respective loopers h
and h, while the other ends are jointed by means of ball and socket or spherical
joints to a common stud or pin which is journalled in the lower end of
a lever I keyed on the pivot stud or pin e of lever E.
J is a presser-foot of any ordinary or suitable construction, but its foot-
plate is formed, as shown in the drawing, in a special manner and is pro-
vided on its under side in the transverse direction with a projecting ridge j₁
in the form of a V, co-operating with a transverse groove or recess aⓇ of corre-
sponding shape in cross-section formed in the work-plate a¹. This arrangement
has for object, as will be readily understood by reference to Fig. 4, facilitating
the folding of the knitted fabric or other material into the desired shape.
Immediately behind the needle the plate of the presser-foot is recessed or
cut out, as shown at 2, in order to allow, as will be explained later on, the
cut edge of the knitted fabric to move nearer to the place where the needle g³
in felling is entering the thickness of the fold of the top layer of such fabric.
In other words, the plate j of the presser-foot is made substantially in the form
of an in plan, Fig. 5, and from the rear end of the ridge projects a
spur or lip in front of and across the slot to properly guide the felling
needle.
Any suitable feed device may be used, and it may in shape correspond with
the groove a in the work plate, or a feed mechanism of the wheel or other
type may be used and operated in the usual or any well-known manner, such
feeding device being omitted from the drawings to avoid complicating the
same.

page_text: Immediately in front of the place where the sewing needle f¹ is stitching,
there is arranged a knife K, Fig. 5, of the usual or other suitable construction,
which cuts the knitted material at the desired place, and which may be operated
by any suitable or known means.
In Fig. 4 I have shown a sleeve & adjustably secured by means of a set-
screw to the feller needle-bar G, said sleeve having a flat surface
forming
a bearing for and to which is secured the knife K by means of screws ³, said
knife working in an aperture in the work-plate a, Figs. 4 and 5.
Referring to Fig. 4, L and M indicate respectively the upper and lower
layers of a knitted fabric. At the place N where, as will be hereinafter seen,
the felling needle g³ enters the thickness of the upper layer L, there is arranged
a small guard plate designed to prevent the needle g from entering also the
lower layer of the knitted fabric M, and in a measure regulate the depth of
penetration of said needle into and through the upper layer. This guard plate
is particularly necessary in the case of thin materials, but, in the case of very
thick materials, it may be dispensed with if desired.
The said plate is fixed to or formed on the end of a small arm o that is
secured to the work-plate in an adjustable manner by means of a clamping
screw o working in a slot o² of the arm o, Fig. 5.
The mode of operation of this machine is as follows:
In Fig. 1 the parts are shown at the end of the upward stroke, that is to say
at the moment when the two needles have moved out of the material.
In Fig. 3 the parts are shown at the end of their downstroke, that is to say
at the moment when the driving shaft B has described half a revolution, starting
from the position shown in Fig. 1; the two needles have completely entered
the material to form the stitches.
'
Both needles f³ sew in the usual manner with chain-stitch, either with one
or two threads, the two thicknesses or layers of the material, into which the
needle fenters at P and the needle g³ at N, Fig. 4; I will therefore not dilate
upon their action nor upon the manner in which the stitch is formed, because
these are matters that are well known; I will also not dilate any further upon
the action of the knife K which cuts the two thicknesses of the material in
advance of the place where the needle f' is stitching said material in the well-
known manner.
In its downstroke, the needle g pierces first through the thickness of the top
layer L of the two layers of material at the point N (the plate O preventing
it from penetrating into the lower layer M at that point) then it passes through
both layers L and M quite close to their cut edges, and by tightening the stitch
fells the two edges of the material outside the stitching P upon the upper
layer L, as is clearly shown in Fig. 7, in which Q indicates the felled seam.
When the article has been removed from the machine, and has been unfolded,
the stitch has the appearance shown in Fig. 8, without any apparent holes or
stitching showing on the right side, while in the usual manner of sewing cut-
hosiery (Fig. 6) the felling stitch 9 shows on the right side.
In cases where it is desired to produce only a simple felled flat seam, instead
of the French felled flat seam as hereinabove described, the sewing needle f¹
is dispensed with, and if desired the shape of the presser-foot, the work-plate
and the feeding claw may be modified so as to produce a fold of less depth in
the material, the sewing being effected with the needle g³, which will produce
the simple felled seam shown in Fig. 9, as will be readily understood.
It will be understood that I do not limit myself in the carrying out of my
invention to any particular arrangement of knife or of feeding device and that
I may produce sewing in simple chain stitch or in double chain stitch or in
any other kind of well-known stitch.
Dated this 3rd day of October 1899.

page_text: Improvements in Felled-seam Sewing Machines.
A communication from abroad by DOUGLAS HORACE BRANDON, of 59, Rue de
Provence, Paris, France.
I, WILLIAM LLOYD WISE, of 46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of London,
Consulting Engineer and Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention has relation to sewing-machines adapted generally for pro-
ducing felled seams, and particularly for sewing cut knitted goods or hosiery.
As is well known, the cut edges of knitted goods curl or roll up, rendering it
difficult to hem such goods, and prior to my invention it has been proposed to
overcome this difficulty by combining with suitable stitch-forming appliances
a suitable hemmer and appliances for uncurling the edges of the goods before
said edges are folded over and presented to the stitch-forming appliances.
My invention has for its object a construction of sewing-machine whereby
the described appliances are dispensed with, but which is simple in so far as
its operative mechanism is concerned, not more liable to get out of repair than
any ordinary sewing-machine, and whereby flat and pliable simple felled seams,
or what is known as the French felled seam may be produced.
23
Referring to the drawings filed with my Provisional Specification Figs. 1
and 3 are side elevations, partly in section and showing the stitch-forming
appliances in different positions; and Fig. 2 is an end elevation of a
sewing-machine embodying my invention. Fig. 4 is a detail side elevation
illustrating more clearly the presser-foot, the work or needle plate, and the
guide for the felling-needle, the parts being shown in their respective positions
illustrated in Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a plan view, partly in section, of the parts
shown in Fig. 4; and Figs. 6, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are seam-sections on a larger scale,
Fig. 6 illustrating the manner in which the sewing is done in existing two-
needle machines for producing a double or French felled seam in one operation
applied to woven materials only, Fig. 6 illustrating the manner in which
sewing is done generally in the case of knit goods, Fig. 7 illustrating the manner
in which a French felled seam is produced on my improved machine, Fig. 8
showing the material unfolded after removal from the machine, and Fig. 9
illustrating a simple felled seam also produced on my improved machine by
dispensing with one of the needles.
Referring to Fig. 1,2 and 3, A indicates the frame of the machine, which
may be of any desired and suitable shape and construction for carrying the
operating parts.
a is the bed-plate, and a¹ is the needle or work-plate.
B is the driving-shaft, which is suitably carried in the lower part of the
frame A underneath the bed-plate a, and carries at its outer end the usual
driving-pulley b. This shaft B carries
a spherical eccentric next to
the pulley and which works in an eccentric-strap of corresponding
shape formed on the lower end of a connecting-rod C, the upper end
of which is formed by a second strap c', that embraces a ball D. This ball is
connected by means of a screw-threaded tail-piece d and of a lock-nut to
a bent or bell-crank lever E for operating the needle-bars. This lever is keyed
on a conical axle e, which is journaled in any suitable manner on the frame A
of the machine, and it is oscillated from shaft B through the mechanism above
described namely, the eccentric 6', ball-bearing D, and connecting-rod C. To

page_text: the free end of the upper arm e¹ of the bent lever E is pivoted one end of a
link 2, whose other end is pivoted to a sleeve f, fast on the needle-bar F,
which, as shown in the drawings, is arranged obliquely. This needle-bar F
reciprocates in guides a² on the frame A and carries at its lower end the
needle f, which is fixed thereto in any suitable or usual manner.
G is the felling-needle bar, which, like the needle-bar F, is arranged obliquely
and reciprocates in guides of the frame A. The needle-bar G carries a
sleeve analogous to the sleeve f, to which is pivoted at g' one end of a con-
necting-rod g2, the other end of which is pivoted to the free end of the lever-
arm of the lever. E. At the lower end the needle-bar G carries the felling-
needle g, which is secured thereto in any suitable or usual manner
f is the thread for the needle f¹, and g is the thread for the needle.g.
These threads pass over suitable tension devices and through guiding-eyes, as
shown, which do not form, any part of the invention, as they may be of any
known construction and arrangement and need, therefore, not be described in
detail.
hand indicate, respectively, a looper co-operating with the needle f¹ and
a looper co-operating with the telling-needle g. These two loopers are mounted
on a support or frame H, on which they oscillate lengthwise of the bed-plate
or in planes at right angles to the planes of reciprocation of the needle-bars, but
in the opposite direction to each other about the rockers 2 and 3, respectively.
The frame H is suitably journaled in fixed bearings AAA in such a
manner as to be capable of oscillation in a direction cross-wise of the bed-plate
under the action of an eccentric 2, which is mounted on the driving-shaft B
and operates in a fork on the looper-support H, which is secured to suitable
spindles S and S for the purpose, as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 3. The
longitudinal oscillatory movement on their rockers he and his imparted
to the loopers h and h¹, respectively, by means of connecting-rods hand h
which are jointed at one of their ends to the tails of the respective loopers /
and, while the other ends are jointed by means of ball-and-socket or spherical
joints to a common stud or pin i, which is journalled in the lower end of
a lever 1, keyed on the pivot stud or pin e of lever E.
"
Jis a presser-foot of any ordinary or suitable construction, but its foot-
plate is formed, as shown in the drawings, in a special manner and is pro-
vided on its under side in the transverse direction with a. projecting ridge j
in the form of a V," co-operating with a transverse groove or recess of corre-
sponding shape in cross-section formed in the work-plate a This arrangement
has for its object, as will be readily understood by reference to Fig. 4, facilitating
the folding of the knitted fabric or other material into the desired shape.
Immediately behind the needle g³ the plate j of the presser-foot is recessed or
cut out, as shown at j³, in order to allow, as will be explained later on, the
cut edge of the knitted fabric to move nearer to the place where the needle g³
in felling is entering the thickness of the fold of the top layer of such fabric.
In other words, the plate j of the presser-foot is made substantially in the form
of an "L" in plan, Fig. 5, and from the rear end of the ridge projects a
spur or lip in front of and across the slot to properly guide the felling-
needle.
Any suitable feed device may be used, and it may in shape correspond with
the groove 6 in the work-plate, or a feed mechanism of the wheel or other
type may be used and operated in the usual or any well-known manner, such
feeding device being omitted from the drawings to avoid complicating the
same.
Immediately in front of the place where the sewing-needle f¹ is stitching
there is arranged a knife K Fig. 5 of the usual or other suitable construction,
which cuts the knitted material at the desired place and which may be operated
by any suitable or known means.
In Fig. 4, I have shown a sleeve k, adjustably secured by means of a set-

page_text: screw to the feller-needle bar G, said sleeve having a flat surface 2, forming
a bearing for and to which is secured the knife K by means of screws ³, said
knife working in an aperture a in the work-plate a, Figs. 4 and 5.
Referring to Fig. 4, L and M indicate, respectively, the upper and lower
layers of a knitted fabric. At the place where, as will be hereinafter seen,
the felling-needle g³ enters the thickness of the upper layer L, there is arranged
a small guard-plate O, designed to prevent the needle from entering also the
lower layer of the knitted fabric M and in a measure regulate the depth of
penetration of said needle into and through the upper layer. This guard-plate
is particularly necessary in the case of thin materials, but in the case of very
thick materials it may be dispensed with if desired. The said plate O is fixed
to or formed on the end of a small arm o, that is secured to the-work-plate a¹
in an adjustable manner by means of a clamping-screw o', working in a slot ³
of the arm o, Fig. 5.
The mode of operation of this machine is as follows; In Fig. 1 the parts are
shown at the end of the upward stroke-that is to say, at the moment when
the two needles have moved out of the material. In Fig. 3 the parts are shown
at the end of their downstroke-that is to say, at the moment when the driving-
shaft B has described half a revolution, starting from the position shown in
Fig. 1.
The two needles have completely entered the material to form the
stitches. Both needles fg sew in the usual manner with chain-stitch, either
with one or two threads, the two thicknesses or layers of the material, into
which the needle f¹ enters at P' and the needle g³ at N, Fig. 4. I will therefore
not dilate upon their action nor upon the manner in which the stitch is formed,
because these are matters that are well known. I will also not dilate any
further upon the action of the knife K, which cuts the two thicknesses of the
material in advance. of the place where the needle f¹ is stitching said material
in the well-known manner. In its downstroke, the needle pierces first
through the thickness of the top layer L of the two layers of material at the
point N, (the plate O preventing it from penetrating into the lower layer M
at that point). Then it passes through both layers L and M quite close to
their cut edges and, by tightening the stitch fells the two edges of the material
outside the stitching 1' upon the upper layer L, as is clearly shown in Fig. 7,
in which Q indicates the felled seam. When the article has been removed from
the machine and has been unfolded, the stitch has the appearance shown in
Fig. 8 without any apparent holes or stitching showing on the right side, while
in the usual manner of sewing cut-hosiery, Fig. 6", the felling-stitch shows
on the right side.
In cases where it is desired to produce only a simple felled flat seam instead
of the French felled flat seam, as hereinabove described, the sewing-needle f¹
is dispensed with, and if desired, the shape of the presser-foot, the work-plate,
and the feeding-claw may be modified, so as to produce a fold of less depth in
the material, the sewing being effected with the needle g³, which will produce
the simple felled seam shown in Fig. 9, as will be readily understood.
It will be understood that I do not limit myself in the carrying out of my
invention to any particular arrangement of knife or of feeding device and that
I may produce sewing in simple chain-stitch or in double chain-stitch or in
any other kind of well-known stitch.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
1. In a sewing machine, the combination with the bed-plate, the overhanging
arm, a needle-bar carrying an eye-pointed needle and reciprocating in bearings
in said arm in a plane oblique to said bed-plate, and a fooper below the bed-
plate co-operating with the needle to form the stitch; of means connected with
said bed-plate for presenting two layers of fabric to the needle to cause the

page_text: same to sew the upper layer to both said layers along a line more or less distant
from their edges, for the purpose set forth.
2. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances
comprising two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other of means
for presenting two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to
sew together both layers to form a seam parallel with their free edges, and so
as to cause the other needle to sew the upper layer along a similar line on one
side of the seam formed by the first needle to both layers on the opposite side
thereof, for the purpose set forth.
3. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances
comprising two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other; of means
for presenting two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to
sew together both layers to form a seam parallel with their free edges, and so
as to cause the other needle to pass through the upper layer on one side of the
aforesaid seam and between the upper and lower surfaces of said upper layer and
sew the same to both layers on the opposite side of such seam, for the purpose
set forth.
4. In a sewing machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances,
comprising two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, and a work-
plate having a recess or throat V-shaped in cross-section of means for holding,
during the stitch-forming operation, two layers of fabric in said recess so as to
conform to the angularity thereof and so as to cause one of the needles to sew
both layers together along a line parallel with the apex of the angle of said
recess and so as to cause the other needle to sew the upper layer, on one side of
the seam formed by the first needle, to both layers on the opposite side of said
seam, for the purpose set forth.
5. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances
comprising two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, and a work-
plate having a recess or throat V-shaped in cross-section of a presser-foot
provided with a ridge or projection corresponding in shape to that of the recess
in said work-plate for holding, during the stitching operation, two layers of
fabric so as to conform to the angularity of said recess and so as to cause one
of the needles to sew the layers of fabric together along a line parallel with
the apex of the angle of the aforesaid recess and so as to cause the other needle
to pass through the upper layer on one side of the seam formed by the first
needle, and sew said upper layer to both layers on the opposite side of said seam,
for the purpose set forth.
6. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances,
comprising two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, and means
for presenting two lavers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to
sew both layers together along a line parallel with their free edges and to cause
the other needle to sew the upper layer on one side of the seam formed by the
first needle to both layers on the opposite side thereof along their free edges,
and a reciprocating knife for cutting the said free edges outside of and along
the edge seam, for the purpose set forth.
7. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming appliances com-
prising two needle-bars having motion in bearings at an angle to each other.
and mechanism for reciprocating the same, comprising a rotating shaft, the
bent lever E, a connection between the latter and said shaft organized to impart
an oscillating motion to the lever, the connecting-link connecting the arm e¹
of said lever E with one of the needle-bars, and the connecting-rod q² connecting
the other arme of the lever with the other needle-bar: of means for presenting
two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to sew both layers
together along a line parallel with their free edges, and so as to cause the other
needle to sew the upper layer on one side of the seam formed by the first
needle to both layers on the opposite side of said seam along their free edges,
for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 8. In a sewing machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances,
comprising two needle-bars arranged at an angle to each other, and an oscil-
lating looper for each needle-bar, cooperating with the needle thereof to form the
stitch of a rocking shaft, mechanism operated thereby for reciprocating the
needle-bars and for oscillating the loopers, and means for presenting two layers
of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to sew both layers together
on a line parallel with their free edges, and so as to cause the other needle to
sew the upper layer on one side of the seam formed by the first needle to both
layers on the opposite side of said seam along their free edges, for the purpose
set forth.
9. In a sewing-machine, the combination with two needle-bars arranged at an
angle to each other, a looper for each needle-bar co-operating with the needle
thereof to form the stitch, and a support common to both loopers and on which
support said loopers have oscillating motion; of a rotating shaft, a rock-shaft,
mechanism operated by the rotating shaft to rock said rock-shaft, a radial arm
on the last-named shaft, and connecting-rods connecting the tails of the loopers
with said radial arm, for the purpose set forth.
10. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a driving-shaft, two needle-
bars arranged at an angle to each other, a looper for each needle-bar co-operating
with the needle thereof to form the stitch, à support common to both loopers,
mounted to rock in bearings parallel with the driving-shaft, said loopers mounted
on said support, to oscillate in bearings at right angles to said shaft; of
mechanism operated by the last-named shaft for rocking the looper-support,
oscillating the loopers, and reciprocating the needle-bars, for the purpose set
forth.
11. The combination with the needle-bars F and G, the lever E and connections
between the arms of said lever and said needle-bars respectively, the stud or
spindle e on which said lever is secured, the radial arm I fast on said spindle,
the shaft B, the eccentrics 12 thereon, the ball-bearing D) secured to lever E,
and the connecting-rod C; of the looper-support H journaled in fixed bearings
and provided with a bearing for the eccentric 2, the loopers h, h', secured
to and having rocking motion on support H, and the connecting-rods 56 con-
nected with the radial arm I and with the heels or tails of the loopers hh¹
respectively, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
12. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the bed-plate and the work-
plate a having the angular recess ; of two needle-bars reciprocating at an
angle to each other, one of said needle bars arranged to pass through
the work-plate at the apex of the angle formed by the aforesaid
recess, the other needle-bar arranged to pass close above the vertical
side and through the opposite inclined side of said recess. and two oscillating
loopers below the bed-plate and co-operating respectively with the needles car-
ried by the needle-bars to form the stitch; of a single driving-shaft revoluble
in bearings below said bed-plate, and mechanism operated by said shaft for
reciprocating the needle-bars and for oscillating the loopers, for the purpose
set forth.
13. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the bed-plate and the work-
plate a having the angular recess 6; of two needle-bars reciprocating at an
angle to each other, one of said needle-bars arranged to pass through the work-
plate at the apex of the angle formed by the aforesaid recess, the other needle-
bar arranged to pass close above the vertical side and through the opposite
inclined side of said recess, a presser-foot for holding the two layers of fabric
along their free edges in, and so as to conform to said angular recess, and two
oscillating loopers below the bed-plate and co-operating respectively with the
needle carried by the needle-bars to form the stitch; of a single driving-shaft
revoluble in bearings below said hed-plate, and mechanism operated by said
shaft for reciprocating the needle-bars and for oscillating the loopers, for the
purpose set forth.

page_text: 14. In a sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-forming appliances
comprising two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, and means
for presenting two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of said
needles to sew both layers together and so as to cause the other needle to sew
the upper layer on one side of the seam formed by the first needle to both layers
on the opposite side thereof; of means co-operating with the last-named needle
for regulating its depth of penetration into and through the upper one of the
two layers of fabric, for the purpose set forth.
15. In a sewing-machine such as described, the combination with the work-
plate a provided with the angular recess a6 and stitch-forming appliances com-
prising the obliquely-reciprocating needle-bar G and its needle; of the guard-
plate O, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
16. In a sewing-machine such as described, the combination with the work-
plate a provided with the angular recess a and stitch-forming appliances com-
prising the obliquely-reciprocating needle-bar and its needle; of the adjustable
arm o provided at its free end with the guard-plate lying below the line of
reciprocations of the needle, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 20th day of June 1900.
W. LLOYD WISE,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Chartered Patent Agent.