Improvements in Socks and Stockings.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Aug., 1894
La
1014
1005
10th A
1305
Improvements in Socks and Stockings.
I, Mrs. LOUISA OUSEY, of Belle Vue Villa, South Wimbledon, in the County
of Surrey, England, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The socks hitherto in use do not rise above the calf, and whether they be
ribbed all the way up, or have only a zone of elastic stitch, or pearling, at the
top, they have an inevitable tendency to come down.
The stockings, if they be "three quarter" stockings, hitherto in use, are not
reduced above the calf, though they may have, at the top (below the knee) a zone
of ribbing, elastic stitch, or pearling, and they have, like the socks, an inevitable
tendency to come down.
The stockings which come above the knee, hitherto in use, are neither reduced
above the calf nor enlarged for, and reduced above, the knee-cap, and though
they may have, at the top, a zone of ribbing, elastic stitch, or pearling, they
require to Le kept up by means of garters.
Moreover, a sock or stocking which fits neatly round the ankle requires to be
enlarged at, and for, the back of the heel, but they do not appear to be thus
made, but the ankle is either made larger than it should be, and is slovenly, or
else the stocking is on the stretch at the heel, and is thereby subjected to
unnecessary wear and tear.
This new stocking is so made as to keep in position without the necessity of
using garters, which must in all cases interfere with the free circulation of the
blood, and be injurious, to say nothing of the malformations which are the.
consequence of using garters.
The usual method of making a stocking is straight (parallel) from the calf
upwards, and reduced from the calf to the ankle, and there is no more shaping
till it is again reduced to take away the corner from under the heel.
This new stocking is based upon the actual proportions of the leg, as ascertained
by measurements, of the perfectly formed or average limb, and these proportions
are applied, as well as they practicably may be, having regard to the constructive
difficulties of making the stocking, in such a way that it adapts itself to the leg
in all the circumstances of wear.
Usually, when a stocking is pearled at the top, the front of the stocking goes
down in a straight line from the pearling to the instep, making no allowance
for the projection of the knee, which becomes very prominent when the leg is
bent in the same way the back of the stocking goes down in a straight line
from the pearling at the top, till it is reduced for the ankle.
The salient points of this new stocking are shewn, diagrammatically, in the
accompanying sketch, which indicates how it differs essentially from the usual
form of stocking, which has only two such points, viz., one indicating the girth
of the ankle-too great-the other, that of the calf-too low down.
The side on which the limb is prominent has, necessarily, a longer outline than
the other side, and if a straight edge be applied to both sides it will fall short
on the side which has the prominence-thus, the stocking being of course held
down by the foot, the knee, and especially the bending of the knee, will bring
or pull the stocking down-therefore, the front of the knee of this stocking is
pocketed; and the back is straight, since a straight line is the shortest between
any two points.

page_text: The same applies to the calf, which is longer than the shin; and the movements
of the muscles of the calf have the same tendency as the bending of the knee,
viz., to pull the stocking down.
The upper side of the pocket, in each case, is rather more inclined, and is
shorter, than the lower side, and it, in proportion, strongly opposes the tendency
of the lower side, which combines with the action of the joint, or of the muscles,
and the weight of the material itself, to pull the stocking down.
The elastic stitch or pearling above the knee is supplemented by the same
below the knee; now, when the knee is bent, the tension of the front of the
stocking is, on account of the pocket, diminished, and the weight of the material,
being sustained by the pearling, and by it, especially the lower one, kept, as the
leg straightens, against the shin, this part of the stocking does not fall, whilst,
behind the knee, the upper pearling has only to sustain the material between
itself and the lower pearling, which has, therefore, no tendency to fall, and the
material on the calf is therefore sustained by the two pearlings, as well as by
the inclined upper side of the pocket, as has already been shewn.
Two weak places in a stocking are indicated by the arrow-points-the one, at
the upper part of the instep-the other, at the back of the heel. This is due
to the great tension, diagonally, between these two points; and, to make this
diagonal dimension greater, the ankle is usually made larger in girth than it
should be, with the result that the stocking does not lie neatly round the ankle,
and the weight of the material, from the "os calcis" upwards, tends to pull the
stocking down. The heel will, with ease, pass through the narrower ankle of the
new stocking, since the zone of extreme narrowness in it is limited to the pro-
portions in nature, and is as a ring compared with a parallel tube.
In this new stocking there is pocket to fit the "os calcis" which enables
such narrow zone of the ankle to be reduced to the girth of the natural ankle-
the lower side of this pocket is more inclined, and is shorter, than the upper
side this pocket has several advantages-the ankle of the stocking which has
this pocket may be less in proportion to the calf, say, as 1 to 1.6, instead of
as 1 to 15, and there is less of the diagonal tension, the stocking, therefore,
does not wrinkle and crack over the instep, and it does not unduly wear out at
the back of the heel; moreover, when, say, an equivalent to the girth of the
aukle added to the heel-piece, for the length of the foot, the stocking is long
enough for the foot, and is not drawn back by the projection of the heel.
The new sock ends at the top of the lower pearling, and has none of the many
very objectionable features of the socks now in use.
It will be remarked that the new stocking is 5 or 6 inches shorter than it
appears to have been necessary to make stockings hitherto,—and the sock is
longer.
Dated in 02-1 1...
T
A D 100
LOUISA QUSEY.
CUM LEIE DIECIFICATION.
Improvements in Socks and Stockings.
I, Mrs. LOUISA OUSEY, of Belle Vue Villa, South Wimbledon, in the County
of Surrey, England, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
The socks hitherto in use do not rise above the calf, and whether they be ribbed
all the way up, or have only a zone of elastic stitch, or pearling, at the top, they
have an inevitable tendency to come down.
The stockings, if they be "three quarter" stockings, hitherto in use, are not
reduced above the calf, though they may have, at the top (below the knee) a zone

page_text: of ribbing, elastic stitch, or pearling, and they have, like the socks, an inevitable
tendency to come down.
The stockings which come above the knee, hitherto in use, are neither reduced
above the calf nor enlarged for, and reduced above the knee-cap, and though they
may have, at the top, a zone of ribbing, elastic stitch, or pearling, they require to
be kept up by means of garters.
Moreover a sock or stocking which fits neatly round the ankle requires to be
enlarged at, and for the back of the heel, but they do not appear to be thus made,
but the ankle is either made larger than it should be, and is slovenly, or else the
stocking is on the stretch at the heel, and is thereby subjected to unnecessary wear
and tear. To keep the ankle as it is now made, a long parallel tube, and project
the heel, does not produce the desired result-by removing the stretch at the heel
it makes the ankle slovenly, (and if the ankle were originally so large as to be
slovenly, the projection would make it more so)-such projection from a parallel
ankle has been tried and failed.
This new stocking is so made as to keep in position without the necessity of
using garters, which must in all cases interfere with the free circulation of the
blood, and be injurious, to say nothing of the malformations which are the
consequence of using garters.
The usual method of making a stocking is straight (parallel) from the calf
upwards, and reduced from the calf to the ankle-this is a quick reduction, from
considerably below the most prominent part of the calf to considerably above the
smallest part of the ankle, and there is no more shaping, it is again parallel, and, at
the back, straight till it is again reduced to take away the corner from under
the heel.
This new stocking is based upon the actual proportions of the leg, as ascertained
by measurements, of the perfectly formed, or average, limb, and these proportions
are applied as well as they practically may be, having regard to the constructive
difficulties of making the stocking, in such a way that it adapts itself to the leg in
all the circumstances of wear.
Usually, when a stocking is pearled at the top, the front of the stocking goes
down in a straight line from the pearling to the instep, making no allowance for
the projection of the knee, which becomes very prominent when the leg is bent-
in the same way the back of the stocking goes down in a straight line from the
pearling at the top, till it is reduced (much above, but) for the ankle.
The salient points of this new stocking are shewn, diagrammatically, in the
outlines which accompany the Provisional Specification, and indicate how it differs
essentially from the usual form of stocking, which has only two such points,
viz one, the girth of the ankle-too great-indicated by a parallel tube extending
upwards too high-the other, that of the calf-too low down--indicated,
similarly, by a parallel tube extending upwards.
The side on which the limb is prominent has, necessarily, a longer outline than
the other side, and if a straight-edge (measure) be applied to both sides, it will fall
short on the side which has the prominence-thus, the stocking being, of course,
beld down by the foot, the knee, and especially the bending of the knee, will bring
or pull the stocking down-therefore, the front of the knee of this stocking is
pocketed; and the back is straight, since a straight line is the shortest between
any two points.
The same applies to the calf, which is longer than the shin; and the movements
of the muscles of the calf have the same tendency as the bending of the knee,
viz., to pull the stocking down.

page_text: measurements of a number of legs they would constitute a perfect standard for this
"size" of stocking.
The vertical lines passing through the 0's (zero's) represent the fold of the
material, the angles in the crooked lines in front of the knee and behind the calf
indicate noints in the seams, or joined selvedges, of the material which is assumed
to be knitted, and therefore elastic.
The taking-up and dropping of stitches are so effected as not to produce the
angularities shewn in passing from measurement to measurement, but increase and
decrease, or process and recess, is effected in curves-above the prominences of
the knee and calf actual leg measurements being diminished, and below these
prominences, augmented, to adapt the pockets to the circumstances of wear.
At a the circumference of the leg is 13", and, in order that the upper and
shorter side of the pocket may be more inclined than the lower one, this dimension
is reduced to 13" as shewn at b.
Similarly, at and above c the dimensions are reduced, as shewn at and above d-
at & the dimension is increased, that the lower side of the pocket may be relatively
less inclined than the upper side, to allow for the extreme prominence of the knee
when the leg is bent.
The appearance only is shewn of the foot of the stocking when lying flat, but
at e the natural heel is indicated, and at f, the heel of the stocking.
Ath the single division of the Japanese stocking is shewn-at i, the digitated
stocking.
The upper side of the pocket, in each case, is rather more inclined, and is
shorter, than the lower side, and it, in proportion, strongly opposes the tendency
of the lower side, which combines with the action of the joint, or of the muscles,
and the weight of the material itself, to pull the stocking down.
The elastic stitch, or pearling, above the knee is supplemented by the same
below the knee; now, when the knee is bent, the tension of the front of the
stocking is, on account of pocket, diminished, and the weight of the material,
being sustained by the pearling, and by it, especially the lower one, kept, as the
leg straightens, against the shin, this part of the stocking does not fall, whilst,
behind the knee, the upper pearling has only to sustain the weight of the material
between itself and the lower pearling, which has, therefore, no tendency to fall,
and the material on the calf is sustained by the two pearlings, as well as by the
positive action of the inclined upper side of the pocket, as has already been shewn.
Two weak places in a stocking are indicated by the arrow points-the one, at
the upper part of the instep-the other, at the back of the heel.
This is due to the great tension, diagonally, between these two points; and, to
make this diagonal dimensien greater, the ankle is usually made larger in girth
than it should be, with the result that the stocking does not lie neatly round the
ankle, and the weight of the material, from the "os calcis" upwards, tends, lacking
circumferential tension, to pull the stocking down; but the heel will, with ease,
pass through the narrower ankle of the new stocking, since the zone of extreme
narrowness in it is limited to the proportions in nature, and is as a ring compared
with a parallel tube.
66
In this new stocking there is a pocket to fit the prominence of the heel, at the
os calcis," which enables such narrow zone of the ankle to be reduced to the girth
of the natural ankle-the lower side of the pocket is more inclined, and is shorter
than the upper side; this pocket has several advantages-the ankle of the stocking
which has this pocket may be less in proportion to the calf, say, as 1 to 166,
instead of as 1 to 15, and there is less of the diagonal tension, the stooking,
therefore, does not wrinkle and crack over the instep, and it does not unduly wear-
out at the back of the heel; moreover, when, say, an equivalent to the girth of
the ankle, is added to the heel-piece, for the length of the foot, the stocking is long
enough for the foot, and is not drawn back by the projection of the heel.
The new sock ends at the top of the lower pearling, and has none of the many
very objectionable features of the socks now in use.

page_text: It will be remarked that the new stocking is 5 to 6 inches shorter than it
appears to have been necessary to make stockings hitherto,-and the sock is
longer.
Stockings have contributed not less, rather perhaps more, than boots and shoes
to the almost universal malformations of the toes of grown-up people, owing to
the fact of their not having been made as rights and lefts, with the outline of
the toes of the baby as the model for the plan; and to the further fact that
woollen materials full and run-up in the wash; it is therefore essential, if a
stocking is not to become a direct and positive source of injury to the toes, and
by consequence, to the foot, that it should be made like the Japanese stocking,
viz., with a separate stall for the great toe; then, when the stocking shrinks, the
toes have only to resist an amount of shrinkage proportional to their own length,
and not that of the whole stocking-foot; moreover, when people wear leather
boots and shoes if they do not make a practice of washing their feet every day
their condition becomes unsanitary when the stocking is not digitated for each
of the five toes.
If manufacturers find a difficulty in making this new stocking in the ordinary
way, they can make it in two halves from top to toe, with a seam down the front,
and a seam down the back, and shaped to the foot, as the French do it, in a seam
under the centre line of the sole of the foot.
The knee, or top-part of the stocking may, alone, be made with a seam in front
instead of behind, and then attached to the top of the sock; and the pocket for
the knee, when thus made separately, may be obtained by any of the well known
devices adopted in making "knee caps."
If the stocking rise considerably above the knee, it will have less tendency to
come down if it be enlarged gradually by means of a seam in front, instead of by
means of a seam behind; for reasons which may be understood from what has been
above stated, and the fact that a line which rises to any elevation, and at the same
time declines from the vertical, is of greater length than the vertical which rises to
the same elevation.
A seam, the centre of increase and decrease, is not necessarily visible.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A sock or stocking rising above the calf and diminishing, from the most
prominent part of the calf, upwards, to below the knee, where it is, not necessarily
but by preference, pearled, substantially as described.
2. A stocking provided with a pocket for the prominent part of the knee,
substantially as described.
3. A stocking provided with two pearlings-one, above-the other, below
the knee.
4. A stocking rising considerably above the knee, and enlarged for this purpose,
by means of a seam, in front.
5. A sock or stocking with a pocket for the heel, which expands, not from a
parallel tube, but from an ankle reduced to a zone or ring of natural dimensions,
substantially as described.
6. A sock having any cr all of the provisions numbered 1 and 5 combined with a
stall for the great toe or digitations for the five toes; and a stocking having such
stall or digitations in combination with any or all of the five provisions above
mentioned.
Dated this 8th day of Max & D 1805
LOUISA OUSEY.