Manufacture of Pile Fabrics with Partly Cut and Partly Uncut Looped Pile in Imitation of Utrecht Velvet and Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 5th May, 1892
Complete Specification Left, 4th Feb., 1893-Accepted, 4th Mar., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Manufacture of Pile Fabrics with Partly Cut and Partly Uncut
Looped Pile in Imitation of Utrecht Velvet and Apparatus
therefor.
I, OTTO PETERSEN of 11 Rue Grainville, Amiens France, Dyer do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Up to the present time only the Jacquard loom has been employed for the
manufacture of Utrecht velvet, in which the designed is in looped pile while the
ground is in cut pile or velvet, or the converse. This method of manufacture is
slow and consequently very expensive. By means of my present invention I am
enabled to produce a similar velvet pile fabric in a comparatively very short space
of time and at a very reduced cost. It consists in the following operations. I take
a looped pile fabric of any desired description, and by means of a roller or cylinder
or plate having the required design either in relief or recessed thereon I flatten
down those portions of the loops that are required to form the looped pile in the
finished fabric. I then effect the cutting of the remaining loops which project up
beyond the flattened loops, such cutting being effected in any known manner or by
means to be presently described so as to divide the thread at the middle of the
loop without reducing the length of the pile by shearing. When this operation is
completed, the flattened loops are raised again, either by steaming or by wetting.
The loops thus raised will then of necessity be of a less height than the cut pile,
and will consequently constitute a sunk pattern or sunk ground of looped pile
combined with a raised ground or pattern of cut pile, having precisely the same
appearance as the Utrecht velvet.
The means which I prefer to employ for cutting the loops of the pile is as
follows: On a revolving shaft are mounted a number of thin metal discs at a slight
distance apart, corresponding to the distance of the rows of loops, and having their
periphery formed into a number of teeth similar to those of a saw, the edges of the
teeth being however in this case made as very sharp knife edges. The pile fabric
is passed over guide rollers to a bar situated immediately beneath the said toothed
discs, in line with their shaft, over which bar the fabric is stretched and sharply
bent by the pull of the guide and feed rollers so as to present a narrow strip of
loops to the discs.
These being made to revolve at a very quick speed, their teeth
enter and cut the projecting loops as they pass over the bar, leaving the flattened
loops untouched. This operation is repeated if necessary so as to insure that
no loops are left uncut, or the machine may have two or more such shafts with
toothed dises for operating successively on the fabric as it passes through the
machine.
The cutting of the loops may also be effected by means of narrow sharp
blades or knives receiving a to and fro motion so as to enter and cut the loops
as the fabric passes over the bar, or a series of fixed very sharp blades may be
employed in contact with which the loops of the fabric are passed very rapidly
so as to be cut thereby.
Or again, a thin band of steel with sharp teeth may be coiled helically upon a
revolving cylinder, and the loops be led in contact therewith.
In order to prevent the threads of the loops from being dragged out of the
fabric by the cutting, it is desirable to size or dress the ground carefully in the first.
instance.
Dated this 5th day of May 1892.
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Manufacture of Pile Fabrics with Partly Cut and Partly Uncut
Looped Pile in Imitation of Utrecht Velvet, and Apparatus
therefor.
•
I, OTTO PETERSEN of 11 Rue Grainville, Amiens, France, Dyer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
Up to the present time only the Jacquard loom has been employed for the
manufacture of Utrecht velvet, in which the design is in looped pile while the
ground is in cut pile or velvet, or the converse. This method of manufacture
is slow and consequently very expensive. By means of my present invention I
am enabled to produce a similar velvet pile fabric in a comparatively very short
space of time and at a very reduced cost. It consists in the following opera-
tions. I take a looped pile fabric of any desired description as shown to an
exaggerated scale at Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings and by means of a
roller or cylinder or plate having the required design either in relief or recessed
thereon I flatten down those portions of the loops that are required to form the
design in looped pile in the finished fabric as shewn at Fig. 2. I then effect the
cutting of the remaining loops which project up beyond the flattened loops as
shewn at Fig. 3, such cutting being effected in any known manner or by means to
be presently described so as to divide the thread at the middle of the loop,
without reducing the length of the pile by shearing. When this operation is
completed, the flattened loops are raised again, either by steaming or by wetting
as shewn at Fig. 4. The loops thus raised will then of necessity be of a less
height than the cut pile, and will consequently constitute a sunk pattern or sunk
ground of looped pile combined with a raised ground or pattern of cut pile, having
precisely the same appearance as the Utrecht velvet, made by Jacquard apparatus,
as shewn at Fig. 5. This process is applicable to all kinds of looped pile fabrics.
The cutting of the raised portion of the loops after the depression of the others
can be effected by any suitable known means. The apparatus which I prefer to
employ is shewn at Figs. 6 and 7 of the drawings; it consists of a large number of
thin steel discs R mounted upon an axis A so as to be a slight distance (1 m.in. to
1m.m. for example) apart as shewn in the front view at Fig. 7; these discs have
their peripheries formed like the teeth of a saw of any desired size and number,
these teeth being made very sharp.
These discs are made to revolve at a very high speed and are situated above the
looped pile fabric to be treated, which, after having the one portion of its loops
flattened down is made to travel over a narrow bar a at such a distance below the
cutting discs that the teeth of these will just catch into the loops left standing, so
as to cut them through, while leaving the depressed loops intact, the fabric being
kept tightly stretched over the bar for this purpose.
After the fabric has been passed two or three times under the cutters, the whole
of the loops will be found to be perfectly cut.
There might be arranged in one and the same machine two or more shafts with
cutter discs R so as to act successively on the fabric, so that a single passage of the
fabric through the machine would in that case suffice. The several sets might
be so arranged that the discs of the one set correspond to the spaces of the
preceding set.
The cutting of the loops may also be effected by means of narrow sharp blades
or knives receiving a to and fro motion so as to enter and cut the loops as the
fabric passes over the bar, or a series of fixed very sharp blades may be employed
in contact with which the loops of the fabric are passed very rapidly so as to be
cut thereby, the distance apart of the blades being equal to the distance apart of

page_text: the loops. Or again, a thin band of steel with sharp teeth may be coiled helically
upon a revolving cylinder, and the loops be led in contact therewith.
In order to prevent the threads of the loops from being dragged out of the
fabric by the cutting, it is desirable to size or dress the ground carefully in the first
instance.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim:-
1. The herein described manufacture of figured looped pile fabrics in imitation
of Utrecht velvet, without the 'use of Jacquard apparatus, wherein those loops of
the fabric that are intended to represent the design or one part thereof are first
flattened down, the remaining loops that have been left standing being then cut
through at the middle of the loop, after which the depressed loops are raised again,
substantially as described.
2. As a new article of manufacture figured looped pile fabrics, having one
portion of the design in cut pile and the other part in looped pile, such design being
produced by flattening down the one portion of the loops and cutting through the
other portion thereof, substantially as described.
3. Effecting the cutting through of the loops of the pile fabric referred to in
the preceding claim, by causing the same after the flattening down of the one
portion of the loops to travel in a tightly stretched condition over a narrow bar
while subject to the action of cutters substantially as described.
4. The use for cutting the loops of the looped pile fabric referred to in the
preceding claims of a series of circular discs having their peripheries formed as
sharp teeth and mounted side by side with small intervening spaces upon a revolving
axis, substantially as described.
Dated this 4th 1009
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for Applicant.