AN IMPROVED PROCESS OF AND MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING RELIEF DESIGNS OR PATTERNS ON WOOLLEN FABRICS
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alphonse Pierre Fleury Desmares, of Boulevard
de Strasbourg, No. 23, Paris, Manufacturer, for the Invention of
"AN IMPROVED PROCESS OF AND MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING RELIEF DESIGNS
OR PATTERNS ON WOOLLEN FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alphonse Pierre Fleury
Desmares at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 16th April 1873.
I, ALPHONSE PIERRE FLEURY DESMARES, of Boulevard de Strasbourg,
No. 23, Paris, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "AN IMPROVED PROCESS OF AND MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING
RELIEF DESIGNS OR PATTERNS ON WOOLLEN FABRICS," to be as follows:-
Hitherto in order to obtain on woollen stuffs, designs or patterns
consisting of parts in long and parts in short pile recourse has been had
to shearing, pressing, and other known processes.,
The new process to which my Invention relates consists in subjecting
cloths and other woollen stuffs in an apparatus designed for the purpose

page_text: to partial teazling or raising of the nap over some portions of the surface
leaving other portions flat, so as to produce patterns in relief, well defined,
and perfectly durable. This process may be applied to stuffs either in
the dry or wet state after fulling and cleansing.
The apparatns whereby the operation is effected consists of a carding
roller for teazling, and a table on which the stuff is laid and fed, from
which table a knife having its upper edge rounded projects upwards so
as to press the stuff passing over its edge with a sharp bend against the
teazling roller. The knife is adjustable by screws; and the teazling
roller can be raised or lowered according to the desired pattern. When :
it is raised clear of the stuff passing over the knife a portion of the
surface of the stuff is left {flat, but when it is depressed a portion is
raised to a nap by the teazling action, and thus as the roller is raised or
lowered transverse lines or bands of flat or napped surface are produced
on the stuff. A moveable grating having longitudinal bars can be
inserted over the knife between the stuff and the teazling roller, so that
its bars protect portions of the stuff from the teazling action, and thereby
longitudinal flat or napless bands are produced on the stuff. When this
grating is removed and the teazling roller is kept continuously down, the
whole surface of the stuff is teazled, but by inserting a grating having
bars of such width as may be desired, and by alternately raising and
lowering the rollers for such time as may be desired during the passage
of the stuff over the edge of the knife the surface of the stuff will
become marked by longitudinal and transverse lines or bands distinguished
by the nap being raised or not raised as above described. The stuff is
fed forward slowly by rollers while the teazling roller is caused to
revolve rapidly and the raising and lowering of the latter is effected at
uniform intervals by a cam or eccentric. The stuff after being subjected
to the teazling action passes between two rollers one of which is
furnished with brushes which remove the flue or loose fibres from the
teazled surface.
まで
By operating in the manner described above with this apparatus much
time and expense are saved when the whole surface is teazled, the stuff
is left comparatively strong because the threads which give the strength
of the web are little weakened. When the teazling is partial the napless
bands both longitudinal and transverse retain their full strength.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Alphonse Pierre Fleury Desmares in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 22nd September 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALPHONSE
PIERRE FLEURY DESMARES, of Boulevard de Strasbourg, No. 23, Paris,
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her.
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the thirty-
sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Alphonse Pierre Fleury Desmares, Her
special license that I, the said Alphonso Pierre Fleury Desmares, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Alphonse Pierre Fleury Desmares, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, usc, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for ",
'AN IMPROVED PROCESS OF AND MACHINERY
FOR PRODUCING RELIEF DESIGNS OR PATTERNS ON WOOLLEN FABRICS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Alphonse Pierre Fleury
Desmares, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alphonse Pierre Fleury Desmares,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement thereof, reference being being had to
the accompanying Sheet of Drawings, and to the figures and letters
marked thereon, that is to say:-
-
Hitherto in order to obtain on woollen stuffs designs or patterns
consisting of parts in long and parts in short pile recourse has been had
to shearing, pressing, and other known processes.

page_text: The new process to which my Invention relates consists in subjecting
cloths and other woollen stuffs in an apparatus designed for the purpose
to partial teazling or raising of the nap over some portions of the surface
leaving other portions flat, so as to produce patterns in relief well defined
and perfectly durable. This process may be applied to stuffs either in
the dry or wet state after fulling and cleansing.
The apparatus whereby the operation is effected consists of a carding
roller for teazling and a table on which the stuff is laid and fed, from
which table a knife having its upper edge rounded projects upwards so
as to press the stuff passing over its edge with a sharp bend against the
teazling roller. The knife is adjustable by screws and the teazling roller
can be raised or lowered according to the desired pattern. When it is
raised clear of the stuff passing over the knife a portion of the surface of
the stuff is left flat, but when it is depressed a portion is raised to a nap
by the teazling action, and thus as the roller is raised or lowered
transverse lines or bands of flat or napped surface are produced on the
stuff. A moveable grating having longitudinal bars can be inserted
over the knife between the stuff and the teazling roller, so that its bars.
protect portions of the stuff from the tcazling action, and thereby
longitudinal flat or napless bands are produced on the stuff. When this
grating is removed and the teazling roller is kept continuously down the
whole surface of the stuff is teazled, but by inserting a grating having
bars of such width as may be desired, and by alternately raising and
lowering the roller for such time as may be desired during the passage
of the stuff over the edge of the knife, the surface of the stuff will
become marked by longitudinal and transverse lines or bands. dis-
tinguished by the nap being raised or not raised as above described.
The stuff is fed forward slowly by rollers while the teazling roller is caused
to revolve rapidly, and the raising and lowering of the latter is effected at
uniform intervals by a cam or eccentric. The stuff after being subjected
to the teazling action passes between two rollers, one of which is
furnished with brushes which remove the flue or loose fibres from the

page_text: Fig. 1 represents a side view; Fig. 2, a longitudinal section; and
Fig. 3, a plan of the apparatus. A is the teazling roller covered on its
periphery with carding wires and driven at high speed from a pulley Q
to which rotary motion is imparted from any convenient prime mover
driving a pulley P on the same shaft O with the pulley Q. The
bearings of the roller A are mounted on the ends of a forked lever E
which is acted on by a cam or wheel D having several wipers, so that as
cach wiper comes to bear on the end of the lever E the roller A is
raised for a time during the passage of the wiper. The number of
wipers on the wheel D may be varied, also the velocity with which this
wheel is driven from the main shaft O can be varied by means of change
wheels d, and thus the intervals between the successive elevations of the
roller A and the time during which it remains clevated can be adjusted
to suit the desired pattern. B is the knife which is set up and can be
adjusted parallel to the roller A by the setting screws C. The stuff to
be operated on is passed over several rollers K for the purpose of
smoothing it, then over and between two rollers g, G, and over the edge
of the knife B, and is then led by a guide roller between a roller H and a
revolving brush J. If the roller A were not lifted during the passage of
the stuff over the knifo B, a nap would be raised over its whole surfacc.
But the roller A being lifted at intervals by the action of the wipers D
so that its carded circumference is clear of the stuff, transverse bands of
raised nap alternating with bands without raised nap will be produced.
A grating F being placed between the stuff and the roller A will by its
bars protect portions of the stuff from the teazling action, and thus
longitudinal bands with raised nap can be made to alternate with bands
not raised. Furthermore by combining the intermittent elevation of the
roller A with the guard grating F, both longitudinal and transverse
bands of nap can be raised on the stuff.
Fig. 4 represents a section of stuff before being operated on, and Fig. 5.
represents a front view and section of it when operated on in the manner
last described. The brush J clears off loose flue and smoothes the nap.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I claim,—

page_text: First. Raising nap on the surface of woollen stuff by passing the stuff
over the edge of a knife so as to present a sharply curved portion of the
stuff to a teazling roller, substantially as herein described.
Second. Raising the nap in transverse bands by intermittently raising
the teazling roller from the surface of the stuff, substantially as herein
described.
Third. Raising the nap in longitudinal bands by introducing a grated
guard between the stuff and the teazling roller, substantially as herein
described.
Fourth. The use for performing the teazling operations above referred
to, of apparatus consisting essentially of an adjustable knife, a teazling
roller mounted in bearings on a lever acted on by a cam or wipers,
whereby it can be intermittently raised, a grated guard to be used when
required, and a revolving brush, substantially as herein described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alphonse Pierre Fleury Desmares,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Tenth day of September,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
three.
Witness,
ALBERT CAHEN,
Civil Engineer,
A. P. FLEURY DESMARES. (L.S.).
32, Boulevard de Magenta, `
at Paris.