IMPROVEMENTS. IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Adolphe Victor Deshayes, of Paris, in the Republic
of France, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS. IN EMBROIDERING
MACHINES."
Sealed the 13th March 1874, and dated the 18th September 1873.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Adolphe Victor Deshayes
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 18th September 1873.
I, ADOLPHE VICTOR DESHAYES, of Paris, in the Republic of France,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
EMBROIDERING MACHINES," to be as follows:-
―
The object of these improvements in embroidering machines is to
facilitate changes in the direction of the feed, so as to embroider or
braid in curvilinear lines.

page_text: braid reel, so as to render them capable of a simultaneous axial motion,
their positions with regard to each other being at the same time pre-
served; and also the necessary adjustments required for various
thicknesses of work, and for any desired length of stitch being
secured.

page_text: |piece before mentioned and the square block on which the feed lever is
pivotted.
The outer spindle carries a rock lever, the upper end of which bears
against the face of the cam piece, and its lower end is forked to embrace
the swinging feed lever (the rock lever being kept up against the face of
the cam piece by a spring).
The hook, presser, feed, and cam spindles each receive vertical motion
independently of the others from disc cams on the main or horizontal
shaft either through vertical slides or bell-crank levers. For this
purpose these spindles are furnished with grooved collars at or near
their upper ends, into which take the forked ends of the arms of the
slides or rock levers by which they are operated. The hook carrier is
operated by means of a forked arm from a slide carrying a pin entering
a groove in the face of the disc cam, and the tubular presser from a
slide on the front of the head of the machine, which slide is furnished
with a forked arm embracing the grooved collar on the presser spindle.
This slide carries also an arm projecting under the end of the bell-crank
lever by which the tubular spindle carrying the feed lever is raised and
lowered. It will therefore be understood that the slide operating the
presser when raised by means of the usual eccentric cam lever will also
lift the feed lever spindle.
An adjusting screw is provided to act upon the bell-crank lever
operating the tubular spindle on which the feed cam piece is carried, by
the raising or lowering of which (near to or farther from its cam)
the amount of throw given to the rock lever and its swinging feed lever,
and therefore the length of stitch will be determined.
When braid is to be used in embroidering the reel of braid is carried
on a bracket pin supported on the upper end of the hook carrier, and
the braid is led down through the longitudinal groove of the hook
carrier to a braid guide carried loosely on the lower end of the presser
spindle, so as to rest by its own weight lightly on the work, but
following the axial motion of the presser carrier, and the other operating
parts.
The thread to be used for stitching on the braid or embroidery (as the
case may be) is carried on a reel on the under side of the machine, and
is presented to or layed upon the hook when the same is in a depressed
position by means of an eccentric tubular looper mounted in bearings

page_text: below the table of the machine. This tube carries a bevil wheel, which
receives rotary motion alternately in opposite directions.
It is requisite that the circular reciprocations of the lower looper shall
vary with the varying axial positions of the hook presser and feed dog.
This result is obtained in the following manner:-Below the table of
the machine are mounted in bracket supports two horizontal shafts set
in the same axial line; the inner shaft carries at one end a bevil wheel,
and is furnished at the other with a bush. The inner end of the outer
shaft has for its bearing the bush before mentioned, and it is connected
at its other end by gearing with the eccentric tubular hooker. On the
inner end of this shaft is a screw with threads of coarse pitch, and upon
this screw is a traversing nut or collar embraced by the fork of a slide,
which receives a reciprocating motion from a vertical rock lover operated
by a grooved cam on the main shaft. From this reciprocating motion
of the nut a reciprocating axial motion is obtained, and the same is
transmitted to the looner which lous the thread
AVAIL
the crochet

page_text: lever, and in rising throws the upper end of the lever into the path of
an incline carried on a spring clutch of the driving pulley, thereby
disengaging the clutch, and setting free the pulley.
filed by the said Adolphe Victor Deshayes in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 18th March 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, Į, ADOLPHE
VICTOR DESHAYES, of Paris, in the Republic of France, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of September, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the thirty-
seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Adolphe Victor Deshayes, Her special
licence that I, the said Adolphe Victor Deshayes, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Adolphe Victor Deshayes
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Adolphe Victor Deshayes, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to
be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Adolphe Victor Deshayes, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawing here-

page_text: Fig. 5 is a back view of the machine shewing the brake mechanism.
Fig. 6 shews in longitudinal section several of the working parts of
the brake mechanism applied to the driving shaft.
Fig. 7 is a cross section of the clutch.

page_text: g is the braid layer, and used solely for placing the braid; it slides on
the tube at g³, follows its circular movement, but rests always upon the
fabric. The tube G which carries the presser receives a movement
independent of the braid layer. 9' is a screw fixed on the upper end of
the tube G, and it enters the groove e of the needle carrier and obliges
this latter to follow its rotatory movement.
H is the tube of the feed dog receiving like the two former, but inde-
pendently of them, a vertical reciprocating movement, thereby raising
and lowering the feed dog. In the interior of this tube slides the presser
carrier G. At its upper end the tube H is furnished with a grooved
collar h. h¹ is a set screw (with a prolongation extending into h³), on
which is hung the feed dog h³.
I is a tube in which slides (with gentle friction) that of the feed dog.
It has a vertical movement independent of those of the needle presser
and feed dog, and it is furnished at its upper end with a grooved collar i.
Screwed to the tube is a piece ¹ in order to give to the exterior a plane
surface, on which is fixed another part in the form of an inclined plane ³,
against which bears the extremity of a rock lever, which causes the feed
dog to move horizontally. It will be remarked that the vertical move-
ment of the tube I causes the oscillation of the feed dog which carries
forward the fabric. The reverse movement of the feed dog is given by
a spring 13.
.
K is the exterior tube receiving only a rotatory movement in the
exterior bracket support of the plate D of the head of the machine..
At its upper part is a toothed wheel k either cast therewith or keyed
thereto. It has a vertical groove k¹ at its lower part, in which the
piece is fitted, and moves vertically. k² is a rock lever which turns at
³ upon an axis fixed to the projecting piece /*. The upper part k³ of
this lever slides on or against the inclined plane, whilst its lower
portion (%) of a forked shape embraces the feed dog h² and causes it to
move. This tube K, which envelopes all the others, is connected with
these latter by the screw h³, the extremity h³ of which enters the vertical
groove g³* of the presser carrier G, so that each tube has a vertical
movement proper to itself, but none of them can take a rotary move-
ment without drawing with it all the others in which ever direction the
movement may take place.
which presents the thread to the arcokat noodle

page_text: M. is the thread bobbin placed on an axle m fixed to the projecting
piece m¹.
N is a presser bearing against the bobbin to put the requisite friction
thereon. Its action is increased or diminished at will by means of the
hand lever n, to which is fixed a spring n³.
O is a tension spring for the thread at its entrance into the looper.
·P is a shaft turning horizontally in the bearings p and p¹ in the bracket
arm B; it receives its movement from a fly wheel p², the pulley p³ of
which (and which forms a portion of the same) is driven by a band from
any prime mover. This fly wheel is loose on the shaft, and is connected
therewith by means of a brake mechanism, which will be described
hereafter.
Q is a grooved disc plate or cam on the shaft P, into which takes a
bowle q¹ carried by a pin projecting from a piece R. This piece R slides
in a vertical groove of the plate D. Fixed at its upper part is a collar »,
which is connected by a screw 21 to the needle carrier, which carrier
follows the vertical reciprocating movement of the piece R. The move-
ment of the presser carrier G is obtained by means of a cam S fixed at
the extremity of the shaft P, and raising in its rotation a piece s fixed
to the sliding plate s', which is thereby raised, and carries with it the
presser carrier tube by the aid of a forked piece s² held in its collar g,
obliging this latter to rise at each turn of the cam.
It descends again
by the effect of the spring s³, one extremity of which is fixed at s' to
the plate and the other to the moveable disc s¹, upon which it acts.
The movement of the feed dog carrier H is thus obtained.
T is a circular plate or disc keyed on the shaft P. It is divided in
the direction of its thickness into two parts T, U. The disc T pushes
(by its rotation) the arm of an elbow lever jointed at t¹ on the feed plate
D; the other arm & raises a stem or rod 3 of the piece t, which slides
in a groove of the plate D. This piece t* is terminated at its front part
by a forked piece t³, which embraces the collar ½ of the feed dog tube
and causes it to move vertically. The lowering of the feed dog is
obtained by the movement of a spring similar to the one (83) above
described.
The lowering of the tube I, which produces the oscillation of the
feed doc 32 is obtained by a proiecting piece forming a cam
cast on

page_text: the periphery of the disc U, and which pushes the arm u of the rock
lever jointed at u¹ on the plate D. The other arm a³ of this lever rests
upon a piece u³ fixed on a moveable stem or rod u', which is capable
of sliding vertically in the upper and lower bracket supports of the
plate D; there is also fixed to this rod the forked piece u³, which
embraces the collar i of the tube I, thereby causing the lowering of
this latter.
The raising of the tube I to produce the oscillation of the feed dog in
a reverse direction is obtained by a spiral spring us, which is fixed by
one of its extremities on the plate D, and by the other on the rod u*.
The alternating axial motion of the looper L, and the turning of the
feed dog, crochet needle, and presser, when it is desired to change the
direction of the feed, are obtained by the following combination of
working parts:-A cam 1 keyed on the driving shaft P, a large
lever 2, having its fulcrum at 3, and carrying at its upper extremity
a bowle 4, which engages in the groove of the cam 1. The lower
extremity of this lever is jointed at 5 to a horizontal rod 6 which has
a reciprocating movement in the bracket supports 7, 8, below the bed
plate of the machine. This movement it receives from its connection
with the lever 2; 9 is a bush turning in a bearing 10; 11 is a shaft
passing through and turning in one of the bracket supports 12. One
of its extremities is fixed to the bush 9 by a screw 13, and to the
other extremity is keyed a bevil pinion 13*.
14 is a shaft turning in a bearing 15 and forming an extension of
the preceding shaft. One of its extremities turns loosely in the 2
bush 9, and to the other extremity is keyed a bevil pinion 10 gearing
with that (17) of the looper L.
18 is a screwed portion of the shaft 14; 19 is a threaded collar or
nut, fitting the thread of the screw 18.
20, 20, are two guide rods secured to the bush 9, and lying parallel a
with and at opposite sides of the screwed shaft 18. These rods pass
through holes in the collar 19 and serve as a guide while driving the
collar, and cause it to travel in a rectilinear direction on the shaft 14.
21 is a forked piece connected with the rod 6 and embracing the
collar 19, which is grooved to receive it; 22 is a vertical shaft turning g
in the bed plate A, and in a support 23 cast with the bracket arm B.

page_text: This shaft is commanded by a handle 24 placed under the table of the
machine. At its lower extremity is fixed a bevil pinion 24*, which
gears with that (13*) of the shaft 11.
25 is a horizontal shaft turning in a bracket support 26 of the
framing, and at 27 in the head C. This shaft receives its motion from
the vertical shaft 22 by means of the two bevil pinions 28 and 29.
30 is a short shaft turning vertically in the head C. It receives its
motion from the horizontal shaft 25 by means of the bevil pinions
31, 32. At its lower end it is provided with a toothed wheel 33 gearing
with that (%) of the exterior tube K.
The working parts being thus disposed their mode of action will now
be described.
The reciprocating movement which the rod 6 derives from the rock
lever 2 causes the collar 19 to slide in a rectilinear direction on the
rods 20, 20, and thereby to impart to the shaft 14 a rotary movement
alternately in opposite directions, and as this shaft turns freely in the
bush 9 it transmits its motion to the looper L by means of the
pinions 16, 17.
The looper makes one revolution and a quarter either in one direction
or the other, so that the thread surrounding completely the hooked
needle is of necessity drawn up by the same when it rises again.
To change the direction of the feed it suffices to turn more or less
in one direction or the other the handle 24, which puts in motion first
the shafts 22 and 25. This latter through its pinion 31 imparts to the
tube K a rotary movement, and in this movement participate also
the needle carrier, the presser carrier, the feed dog carrier, and the
piece, which governs the oscillation of the feed dog; all these pieces
make a joint concentric movement; secondly, the shaft 11, which is
rigidly connected with the bush 9, in turning carries round the rods 20,
which take with them the collar 19 which turns in the forked piece 21,
the rod 6, with which the fork is connected remaining immovable.
The shaft 14 in its turn has motion communicated to it by the collar 19,
so that the pinions 16, 17, cause the looper to turn to an extent equal
to the axial movement made by the parts commanded by the large
tube K. By this arrangement all the working parts remain in the
same respective positions with regard to each other whatever may be
the direction given to the feed.

page_text: 34 is a screw passing through the face plate D and resting on the
lever us in such a manner as to regulate its motion, so that on turning
more or less in one direction or the other the second arm u of the lever
is in a position nearer to or further from the cam, and the other arm
more or less elevated; the spring us maintains the rod u*, and
consequently the tubular piece I, in a position more or less elevated.
The consequence of this is that when this piece I is lowered its inclined
plane causes the lever h² of the feed dog to move more or less, and
thus the feed of the fabric or the length of the stitch can be regulated
by means of the screw 34.
To introduce the fabric to be embroidered under the feed dog and
presser it is necessary to raise these two pieces. To this end there is
adapted to the plate D a moveable lever 35 which works on an axle 36.
When this lever is raised its projecting part raises the lower part 37 of
the slide 38, which commands the forked piece of the presser carrier, 1
so that this latter becomes elevated at the same time as the tube H of
the feed dog.
I arrive now at an important point of my Invention, viz., a special
arrangement of working parts destined to lay a braid while preserving
the feed movement in all directions as above described.
By the means which I will now explain I interpose between the chain
of stitching and the fabric of whatever nature it may be, a braid which
itself forms the embroidery and is fixed by the crochet stitch.
The principle of my braider consists in placing the braid bobbin above
the head of the machine, in causing the braid to descend to the centre 2
down a groove in the needle carrier, and in causing it to be distributed
under the stitch by a small special device called the "braid layer."
I will first describe the bobbin for receiving the braid, and its special
system of support. I call attention to this part of the apparatus, for
the best combinations of "braider" do not consist merely in the means 3
for distributing the braid under the crochet needle. Here, where this
feed takes place in all directions, where the needle turns and displaces
itself (so to speak) at each stitch, it is necessary that the braid should
follow all its movements so that it should not entangle itself, and should
not thus arrest at every instant the progress of the machine. This result 3
is abtained by placing on the needle carrier E a bobbin support 39
which follows its movements, turns with it, raises and lowers itself at
2

page_text: the same time, and consequently follows the chain of stitching whatever
may be the variety of the design. Fig. 2ª represent this arrangement
in which the bobbin 41 turns freely on its axis; it is pressed slightly
between a spring and a screw nut which hinder it from unwinding too
rapidly. The bracket support 39 is secured to the needle carrier by a
screw passing through its bush 40. This arrangement can only be
employed for work requiring but a very fine braid, of which a considerable
quantity can be put upon a small bobbin. But in practice it is often
necessary to employ a thick braid and it could not be put on this
bobbin, because the weight would be considerable and would derange
the working of the parts of the machine, or else it would only hold a
very small quantity, say twenty or thirty yards at the utmost, which it
would be necessary to renew continually. I have therefore sought a
means of placing the braid which will better answer the requirements
of the work, that is to say, such that without disturbing the movements.
of the machine a large quantity of the braid may be stored for use.
The arrangement hereafter described permits of the employment of a
bobbin carrying as much as a thousand yards of braid. I fix on the head
of the machine, Figures 1 and 2, a frame in which turns vertically (by
means of pivots or trunnions above and below), a second frame; in this
second or inner frame is the bobbin which carries the braid, which
unwinds as required. The inner frame is turned axially by the needle
carrier, which works in the lower cross piece of the frame but does not
raise it; the weight of the bobbin and its supports in this case is borne
by the head of the machine. 68 is the outer frame fixed on the head of
the machine by screws 69, 69, it carries on its upper and lower cross
pieces two projections 70, 71, which form bushes.
72 is the bobbin carrier frame formed of three sides 72, 73, 74, and of
a fourth 75 connected with the preceding by two pivots or trunnions 72¹
and 73. This arrangement permits of the bobbin supports turning on
the cross piece 75, as on a hinge, and it offers the advantage of drawing.
out the needle carrier without displacing the bobbin from its axle. To
allow of this movement the upper button 76 is removed to disengage the
hinged portion of the inner frame from the outer frame when the former
will fall on one side or the other. The needle carrier E can then be with-
drawn by passing it up through the hole for the button 76. When the
carrier is replaced nothing is more simple than to rearrange the inner
frame and replace the button 76 which serves as its swivel pin. ¿

page_text: The bobbin axle 78 is carried by the two vertical sides 72, 73. The
lower cross piece of the outer frame at its widened part is pierced with two
holes as shewn at Fig. 2°. One of these holes 79 is intended for the
passage of the needle carrier. The other 80' is the one through which
passes the braid. The needle carrier slides vertically in the hole 79 without
communicating to the frame its ascending movement, but on the
contrary it carries it with it in turning and obliges it to move to the
extent necessitated by the sinuosities of the design to be reproduced by
the embroidery.
The braid in unwinding enters the groove e of the needle carrier E,
Figures 1, 2, 8, and 9, and passes along the whole length of the same on
its passage to the braid layer.
Figures 4 shew the apparatus for distributing the braid in two views.
It is also traced in red on Fig. 2. It consists of a loose tubular piece g³
surrounding the lower end of the tube G, and fitted with a tubular
continuation of smaller diameter which rests constantly upon the fabric
without pressing it; its function being to distribute the braid and to
place it on the pattern lines whatever may be their course, and the
angles. contained in the design to be executed. In all the changes of
direction the chain of stitching will be disposed at the middle of the
braid, and this is one of the most important advantages of this part of
my Invention.
The braid as it leaves the groove e of the needle carrier passes through
an opening in the lower end of the presser carrier (see Fig. 11). It then
passes through an opening g' in the shoulder of the braid layer g³, and is
threaded through a hole 42 made in the lower end of the braid layer.
The braid layer is slotted vertically to receive a screw which connects it
to the tube G. By thus mounting the braid layer it will be understood
that although it is independent of the vertical motions of the tube G it
will follow the axial movements thereof, and consequently maintain its
relative position with respect to the needle and looper.
The braid layer while following the axial motions of the tube G will
bear constantly on the fabric either by reason of its own weight or by
being pressed down by a light spring, as at 80, fixed to the tube K by a
screw 81.
The different movements of the parts constituting the braider are very
simple; it is easy therefore to apply them to a "universal" embroidery.
€

page_text: machine of other arrangements than my own, particularly to that known
as the Bonnaz machine. In effect I apply to the head of this machine
the apparatus for carrying the braid. I then lead the braid into a groove
formed in the needle carrier E, and cause the presser carrier G to turn
by connecting it in the manner shewn in the sectional elevation, Fig. 21,
with the vertical tubular driving shaft E*, which surrounds the needle
carrier. The rotary motion of the shaft E* is imparted to the presser
carrier G through the stud pin E¹* entering a slot in the upper portion
of the presser carrier G, the vertical motions of the presser carrier being
obtained by the vertical slide s¹, as before described. To the lower
portion of the presser carrier G I adapt my braid layer, which works
under exactly the same conditions as upon my machine before described,
laying the braid constantly on the fabric, while turning to follow the
sinuosities of the embroidery.
Fig. 7A represents another simple arrangement for braiding. It suffices,
as will be seen, to fix on the large tube K a bobbin carrier 82 by means
of two screws 83, 83, and to place the bobbin at 84, the braid from
which in unwinding passes into a hole 81 of the ordinary presser, as will
be seen.
The groove of the needle carrier is thus dispensed with, but
the bobbin 84 can only be charged with a very small quantity of braid,
and this in an inconvenience which gives a very slight value to this
arrangement.
It now only remains to describe the working parts constituting the
improved brake action.
The forked piece 43 (see Fig. 3) of the lever 44 is in connection with
a treadle action by means of a connecting rod acting vertically beneath
the table of the machine. This lever imparts motion to a shaft 45,
which turns on the point 46 of a screw fixed in a bracket support 47.
At its other extremity it works loosely in the side of the framing or bed
plate at 48, and has keyed to it an arm 49, which is forked at its, extremity
to receive the end of a rod 58, and is connected thereto by a pivot pin 51.
This rod slides in two bracket supports 52, 53, and terminates at its
upper end in a piece of smaller diameter 54, which when the treadle is
operated is caused to rise and enter one of the holes 55 made in the
bush 56 keyed on the driving shaft P. At the same time a pin 57 held
by the bush 59 fixed on the shaft 58 imparts motion to the excentric
lever 60, which is jointed at 61. The other extremity of this lever,

page_text: which carries a chisel edged incline, then comes into contact with a
projecting piece having a corresponding incline cast on the surface of a
clutch 64 mounted on the driving shaft P, and carrying a locking pin 66.
This clutch 64 is fitted in its interior with a coiled spring 65, which bears
against the bush 56, and maintains the locking pin 66 in the boss of the
pulley p³ after passing through the small fixed ring 67, and holds the
pulley in action. The movement of the excentric lever 60 has for its
object to throw the machine out of action when the needle and the feed
dog are raised above the fabric, so as to admit of withdrawing the same
easily. The action of this lever, the knife edge of which shifts the
clutch 64, disengages the pin 66 from the pulley, which then turns
loosely and arrests the movement of the machine.
Having now set forth the nature of my Invention of " Improvements
in Embroidering Machines," and explained the manner of carrying the
same into effect, I wish it to be understood that under the above in part
recited Letters Patent I claim,―
First. The arrangement of mechanism above described, whereby the
needle, the looper, the braid bobbin, the presser, and braid layer are
caused to retain the same relative positions with respect to the feed dog
throughout the axial motions of its carrier.
Secondly. The application to embroidering machines of the braid
layer, which bears constantly upon the work while the feeding of the
fabric and the stitching on of the braid are proceeding.
Thirdly. The construction of brake above described for ensuring the
stoppage of the sewing mechanism when the needle and feed dog are 2
raised from the work.
In witness whereof, I, the said Adolphe Victor Deyhayes, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, the Sixteenth day of March, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
four.
ADOLPHE VICTOR DESHAYES. (L.S.)