AN IMPROVEMENT IN A PIQUE GLOVE SEWING MACHINE
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Helyar, of Yeovil, in the county of Somerset,
for an invention of "AN IMPROVEMENT IN A PIQUE GLOVE SEWING
MACHINE"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Helyear at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 6th June 1882.
JOSEPH HELYAR of Yeovil in the County of Somerset "AN IMPROVEMENT IN
A PIQUE GLOVE SEWING MACHINE"
"
My Invention relates to an improved pique making machine for sewing in the
fourchettes" of glove fingers, and it consists in imparting to the "looper" a
reciprocating vertical motion (i.e. in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the
looper) in addition to the alternate circular motion which it has hitherto alone
received, and in providing said looper hook with a notch whereby, in conjunction
with such vertical motion, to catch and hold the needle thread and prevent missing
stitches as hereinafter more fully explained.
In such machines as heretofore used, the looper receives only a semi-rotary.
motion alternately forwards and backwards. In moving forwards it enters the loop
thrown out by the needle and then carries it back a certain distance while the
needle comes down in the next stitch and passes through between the loop and the
thread in the eye of the looper. In carrying it back the loop is liable to slip partly
or entirely off the looper, thus missing stitches.
According to my Invention the looper after having entered the loop thrown out
by the needle and completed its forward movement, is caused to drop, whereby the
loop of the needle thread is caught in the notch in the underside of the looper and
held while the looper executes part of its return movement. The loop is thus
prevented from slipping until the needle passes through between the loop and thread
in the eye of the looper, whereupon the looper rises to let off the loop easily and
then completes its return movement ready for another stitch.
This reciprocating vertical movement of the looper is obtained by means of a
cam or other suitable mechanical motion

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Joseph Helyear in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
6th December 1882.
JOSEPH HELYAR of Yeovil in the County of Somerset "AN IMPROVEMENT IN
A PIQUE GLOVE SEWING MACHINE."
"
My Invention relates to an improved pique making machine for sewing in the
fourchettes" of glove fingers, and it consists in imparting to the "looper" a
reciprocating vertical motion (i.e. in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the
looper) in addition to the alternate circular motion which it has hitherto alone
received, and in providing said looper hook with a shallow notch whereby, in
conjunction with such vertical motion, to retain the needle thread a certain time
and let it off easily on the backward motion of the looper after the needle has
come down again for commencing the next stitch and thereby prevent missing
stitches as hereinafter more fully explained. In such machines as heretofore used,
the looper receives only a semi-rotary motion alternately forwards and backwards.
In moving forwards it enters the loop thrown out by the needle and then carries it
back a certain distance while the needle comes down in the next stitch and passes
through between the loop and the thread in the eye of the looper. In carrying
back the loop it is liable to slip partly or entirely off the looper before the needle
comes down in front of it, thus missing stitches.
According to my Invention the looper after having entered the loop thrown out
by the needle and completed its forward movement, is caused to drop, whereby the
loop of the needle thread is drawn tight and caught in the notch in the underside
of the looper. The loop is thus prevented from slipping until the needle passes
through between the loop and thread in the eye of the looper. Meanwhile the
looper rises to allow of the take up spring drawing the loop smaller and finally to
let off the loop easily whilst it completes its return movement ready for another
stitch. I find that there is a certain advantage in providing the looper with the
notch above referred to, but its use is not obligatory as a looper having the up and
down motions herein described, which is the most essential feature of my Invention,
will work almost as well without any notch, and I do not therefore bind myself to
use any such notch. This reciprocating vertical movement of the looper is obtained
by means of a cam or other suitable mechanical motion.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Figures 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. and 6 are drawn to an enlarged scale and show the principal
phases of the loopers' motion. Figure 7 shows the notch in the underside of the
looper just behind the eye. Figure 8 is an elevation and Figure 9 an underside
plan showing so much of the mechanism for producing such motion as is necessary
to explain the Invention. It will not be necessary to illustrate or describe the
general construction of the machine as it does not differ from other pique making
machines already in use except in respect of the vertical reciprocating motion
imparted to the looper in addition to its usual alternate circular motion, and in the
means of producing such motion. I would however have it understood that I do
pot in any way limit myself to the means hereinafter described of producing such
vertical motion of the looper, the Invention residing mainly in the imparting such
additional motion to the looper apart from any particular means of producing it,
and I have hereinafter only described and claimed certain means as the best with
which I am at present acquainted for the purpose.

page_text: "
Figure 1 represents the looper in its highest position and turned back away from
the needle. This may be termed the first position of the looper. Figure 2
represents the second position of the looper. It will be seen that the looper has
dropped in a vertical line but without rotating, and the needle has reached its
lowest position and is about to rise to throw out the loop of needle thread which
the looper will enter on making its next movement. The looper will thus enter at
the best part of the loop. Figure 3 represents the looper in its third position
after it has been turned forward and passed through the loop of the needle which
is rising. In making this movement the looper rises a little to ease it through the
loop. Figure 4 represents the looper in its fourth position. It has now dropped
still further but without turning, and the loop of needle thread has had its slack
drawn out and has become engaged in the notch or depression (if any) in the
underside of the looper; the needle is still rising.
Figure 5 represents the looper in its fifth position, the needle being now at its
highest position; the looper is here raised nearly up to the needle hole plate to
allow the take up spring to draw the loop as small as possible, so that when it is
let off, the needle shall not have so much thread to draw tight in coming down,
thus making a tighter stitch. Figure 6 represents the looper in its sixth position.
It has fallen very slightly without turning in order to ensure the loop being held
by it whilst it turns back. From this position the looper returns with a gradual
rise to the position shown in Figure 1, thus letting off the loop easily. Each
figure shows the looper in elevation and plan to enable the various phases of its
motion to be readily understood.
a is the looper and 6 is the "finger" within which it works. In these figures
the cover (which is a longitudinal segment of the finger and which carries the
needle hole plate forming the top of the finger) is removed to show the working
of the looper. The motion of the needle is the same as usual and needs no
description.
The looper is fixed on the top of a vertical spindle c turning in the finger as a
bearing and in a footstep bearing c¹ beneath the bed plate of the machine in which
it is capable of endwise motion. It receives its alternate circular motion by the
oscillation of a lever d by a cam wheel e the lever carrying at its extremity a
segmental rack which gears into a pinion g on the looper spindle c, the pinion
being made long enough to permit the vertical reciprocating motion of the spindle c
without becoming disengaged from rack f. Instead of a cam on the edge of the
wheel e, the stud of lever d may be engaged in a cam groove on the upper face of e,
thus dispensing with spring d'. The means of imparting the vertical motion to the
looper spindle which I have represented by way of example, consists of an
oscillating lever h pivoted on a horizontal axis at i to the underside of the bed
plate and actuated by a cam k on the face of the cam wheel e to which it is held
by a spring . The end h¹ of this lever is forked and embraces a grooved collar m
fast on the looper spindle c, the fork of the lever having inwardly projecting studs
which enter said groove and cause the collar and spindle to participate in the
oscillations of the lever without interfering with the circular motion of the spindle.
Figure 7 shows a slight recess or notch which may, though not necessarily, be
made in the underside of the looper at a¹ a little in rear of the looper eye, in
which the loop of the needle thread is retained whilst the looper is moving through
positions 4. 5. and 6 and until just before it again reaches position 1.
Having described the nature of my Invention and the manner of performing the
same, I declare that what I claim as my Invention to be protected by the herein-
before in part recited Letters Patent is.
1st. A pique glove sewing machine in which the looper receives reciprocating
vertical movements in addition to the usual alternate circular movements, these
several movements being timed and arranged for operation, substantially as herein
shown and described.
2nd. The combination in a pique glove sewing machine with the mechanism for

page_text: imparting alternate circular motion to the looper, of the mechanism herein specified
for imparting reciprocating vertical movements thereto substantially in the manner
and as shown and described.
In Witness whereof I the said Joseph Helyar have to this my specification
hereunto set my hand and seal this fourth day of December A.D. 1882.