Improvements in Overedge Sewing Machines.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 9th Aug., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 9th. May, 1893-Accepted, 5th Aug., 1893-
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Overedge Sewing Machines.
I, WILLIAM HAMILTON BLAKENEY, of 28 Euston Square, London, in the
County of Middlesex. Mechanical and Electrical Engineer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows, that is to say:-
My said invention relates to overedge sewing machines of the kind having a
needle in the form of part of a flat circle, or in the form of a helix extending to one
convolution or of a greater or less extent, or in the form of a spiral (Archimedean)
of greater or less extent; and my present invention comprises various improvements
in or modifications of parts of such machines having for object to simplify them,
and to render the machine adaptable for various classes of work and capable of
being driven at a high speed.
In carrying out my invention according to one modification, I employ a needle
the larger part of which is in the form of an arc of a circle, whilst a part at the
point end is curved or inclined inwards to an extent corresponding to the pitch of
the stiches to be formed, for the purpose of feeding the cloth along. The needle
rotates about a horizontal or nearly horizontal axis which makes such an angle
with the direction of the feed or progressive motion of the cloth, that at one side
the needle passes outside of but near the edge of the cloth whilst at the other side
it passes through the cloth at a distance from the edge equal to the desired overlap
of the stitches. The needle passes through the cloth, preferably, in an upward
direction and has one or two hooks or eyes formed at or near its tail or following
end for the sewing thread (this word being used to signify any kind of thread,
twine, yarn, or the like which can be employed in the machine).
The needle which may be of a round or other suitable section is held and driven
by suitably grooved pulleys arranged in an arc-shaped series extending so as to
embrace as much as possible of the needle without interfering with the cloth or
with other parts of the machine. The pulleys or needle drivers are themselves driven
by means of pinions formed or fixed on them and gearing with a spurwheel, or with
an internally toothed wheel, or with a pitch chain. Or the needle drivers may be
driven by a cord acting on grooved pulleys formed or fixed on them; or the needle
may be merely guided by pulleys or rollers and be directly driven by a belt or by
a cord acting in a groove formed along the outer side of the needle. The
arrangement of the needle driving mechanism and parts connected therewith admits
of the casting forming the frame of the machine being of a simple form and such
as can be to a large extent finished by comparatively inexpensive machine-tool
work. Antifriction appliances of any suitable known kind may be used in
connection with the needle drivers or other parts in order to diminish the power
required to drive the machine.
The machine is preferably placed on a pedestal and when arranged to be driven
by power the power is derived from shafting below the floor and from which a belt
or pitch chain extends upwards within or beside the pedestal to the machine,
suitable engaging and disengaging mechanism being provided for being acted on by
the foot or otherwise.
For drawing the loop or slack thread through the cloth at each stitch a small
horizontal or nearly horizontal roller is arranged just above the cloth and parallel
or nearly parallel to its edge. This loop roller as it may be termed is driven at a
considerable speed such that if its surface velocity were completely effective it
would draw through the maximum intended length of thread and tighten the stitch
to the maximum degree. The needle draws the thread up between the loop roller
and a parallel counter loop roller which is loose on a spindle arranged like a lever

page_text: and acted on by an adjustable spring by which the counter loop roller can be made
to bear with more or less pressure on the loop roller to give more or less tension or
tightness to the stitches. There is also a spring on the spindle of the counter loop
roller to press the roller towards the needle. As the cloth is fed or progresses
forwards the thread is moved along between the loop rollers until it finally escapes
from their outer ends. The counter loop roller is preferably made in two or more
sections in order that a freshly caught loop may not be interfered with by the
action on the rollers of the last preceding loop. The loop is thrown out towards
the back of the machine, being guided and prevented from catching or entangling
by curved plates, parts of which may be covered with glass or porcelain or other
material offering little frictional resistance to the thread.
Each length of thread may be placed in the hook or eye of the needle by hand,
but when speed is an object I provide an automatic threader consisting of a lever
finger which lays a sufficient portion of the thread across the path of the needle in
a manner to be caught by the hook. The thread may be drawn off a ball or spool,
successive lengths being automatically threaded and cut off, so that a continuous
seam of any length can be sewn with successive lengths of thread. When two or
more lengths are to be used in the same seam, each succeeding length is made to
form a few stitches along with the tail end of the preceding length; and the parts
thus overlapping may become twisted together so that neither end will be likely to
get loose.
When the end of a fresh thread length is taken hold of by the needle
and the needle makes a circuit the loop rollers draw from the ball the full length of
thread for which the parts are designed or adjusted, and then the thread is cut in a
manner to leave a short but sufficient length drawn off the spool for the next
operation of the automatic threader. The thread lengths may be placed alternately
in separate eyes or hooks of the needle; or they may be laid in one hook alternately
in opposite directions in order that the end of the length just finishing may
being drawn out, draw the end of the new length further into rather than out of
the hook.
The part of the cloth that is being sewn rests on a vertically adjustable plate or
table, which may be quite small, and which may be provided with an adjustable
guide fence to regulate or determine the overlap of the stitches or if desired with a
folding or hemming guide. A part of the table may be inclined downwards to
allow of large loop rollers, or disks being arranged as closely as possible to the
point where the stitch is being formed. Instead of feeding the cloth by the action
of an inclined part of the needle, or in addition to such feeding action, a four-motion
feeding device analogous to that of an ordinary sewing machine may be used or a
toothed feeding wheel may be employed. It is however mounted on a lever or
otherwise so that although driven continuously it can be shifted so as to be effective
or ineffective as required. Thus if the time during which the feed movement can
take place, is for example, one fifth of that taken by one rotation of the needle the
feed motion may be driven at five times the speed of the needle but be effective
only at each fifth repetition of its movements. In this way a quick feeding action
is obtained without complexity of parts. The time of feeding may be determined
by the needle itself a finger on the feeding mechanism bearing on the needle and
allowing the mechanism to get into effective position only when the gap between
the point and tail of the needle comes round. Provision is also made for rendering
the feed device inoperative by hand when desired; and when starting or finishing
a seam two or more stitches may be made at the same place so as to securely
fasten the thread. Or a finger may be arranged to move the thread across the
path of the needle point in a manner to cause the interlacing of one stitch with
another, either at every stitch or at the beginning or end of a seam where it may
be wished to form a kind of knot.
To facilitate the passage of the needle through the cloth a reciprocating piercer
may be employed and may be arranged to be worked by one of the needle drivers
or in any other convenient way; or the feeding mechanism may be armed with pins
arranged to pierce the cloth at suitable points whilst feeding it forwards.

page_text: The cloth may be held down on the feeding mechanism by a presser foot or other
suitable device. I prefer to use a presser foot in the form of a spring blade fixed
to the machine and made or fitted with a long lever convenient for the hand or arm
of the attendant worker.
The loop roller may be driven by gearing connected with that which drives the
needle and other parts; I however prefer to drive it with a small electric motor
the conducting wires for which may led up the pedestal carrying the machine. By
these means the high speed required is obtainable in a direct manner.
The needle may be made of wire of U-section to have strength with lightness,
and to allow of easy shaping into the circular form; and it is preferably bended to
a curve of larger than the proper radius so as to require some compression when
being placed in position and so as to exert some spring pressure against its drivers
Each needle hook or eye is prevented from catching in the cloth either by the
entrance for the thread being covered or closed by a separate small spring which
yields to the pressure of the thread, or by an equivalent spring formation of the
turned-back part constituting the hook. The point or tail of the needle, or both
may be separate short pieces fitted into sockets in the main part of the needle, so
as to be easily renewable. The needle drivers may be made with movable parts
acted on by springs to increase their grip of the needle.
Dated this Eighth day of August 1892.
EDMUND HUNT,
Applicant's Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Overedge Sewing Machines.
I, WILLIAM HAMILTON BLAKENEY, of 28 Euston Square, London, in the
County of Middlesex, Mechanical and Electrical Engineer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :--
My said invention relates to overedge sewing machines of the kind having a
needle in the form of part of a flat circle, that is to say a circle in one plane, or in
the form of a helix extending to one convolution or of a greater or less extent, and
my present invention comprises various improvements in or modifications of parts of
such machines having for object to simplify them, and to render the inachine
adaptable for various classes of work and capable of being driven at a high speed.
The description of my improvements is assisted by three sheets of explanatory
drawings hereunto appended and hereinafter referred to.
Figures 1. and 2. on Sheet 1, of the drawings are front and back elevations
respectively of the machine.
Figures 3. 4. and 5. (Sheet 2), are an end elevation looking on A. (Figure 1.), a
vertical section at B. B. (Figure 1.), and a plan respectively, of the machine.
Figures 6. to 11. (Sheet 3.) comprise views of modifications of needles, of the
counter loop roller and of the cloth in the act of being sewn, the counter loop roller
being removed for clearness.
In these drawings the same reference letters and numerals are used to mark the
same or like parts wherever they are repeated.
In carrying out my invention according to one modification, I employ a needle 12.
the larger part of which is in the form of an arc of a circle, whilst a part at the
point end is curved or inclined inwards to an extent corresponding to the pitch 13.
of the stitches to be formed, for the purpose of feeding the cloth 14. along. The
needle rotates in the direction of the arrow about a horizontal or nearly horizontal
axis which makes such an angle with the direction of the feed or progressive
motion of the cloth, that at one side the needle passes outside of but near the edge
of the cloth, whilst at the other side it passes through the cloth at a distance from
the edge equal to the desired overlap 15. of the stitches. The needle passes

page_text: through the cloth, preferably in an upward direction and has one or two hooks or
eyes 16. formed at or near its tail or following end for the sewing thread 17. this
word being used to signify any kind of thread, twine, yarn, or the like which can
be employed in the machine.
The needle 12. which may be of a round or other suitable section is held and
driven by suitably grooved pulleys 18, arranged in an arc-shaped series extending
so as to embrace as much as possible of the needle without interfering with the
cloth or with other parts of the machine. The pulleys or needle drivers 18. are
themselves driven by means of pinions 19. formed or fixed on them aad gearing
with a spur wheel 20, such wheel being actuated by hand or by power, or with an
internally toothed wheel, or with a pitch chain. Or the needle drivers may be
driven by a cord acting on grooved pulleys formed or fixed on them, or the needle
may be merely guided by pulleys or rollers and be directly driven by a belt or by
a cord acting in a groove formed along the outer side of the needle, in a manner
well known. The arrangement of the needle driving mechanism and parts con-
nected therewith admits of the casting 21. forming the frame of the machine being
of a simple form and such as can be to a large extent finished by comparatively
inexpensive machine-tool work.
Antifriction appliances of any suitable known kind may be used in connection
with the needle drivers or other parts in order to diminish the power required to
drive the machine.
The machine is preferably placed on a pedestal, and when arranged to be driven
by power, the power is derived from shafting below the floor and from which a belt
or pitch chain extends upwards within or beside the pedestal to the machine,
suitable engaging and disengaging mechanism being provided for being acted on
by the foot or otherwise.
For drawing the loop or slack thread through the cloth at each stitch, a small
horizontal or nearly horizontal roller 22. is arranged just above the cloth and
parallel or nearly parallel to its edge. This loop roller as it may be termed is
driven at a considerable speed, such that if its surface velocity were completely
effective it would draw through the maximum intended length of thread and tighten
the stitch to the maximum degree. The needle draws the thread up between the
loop roller 22. and a parallel counter loop roller 23. which is loose, on a spindle 24.
arranged like a lever and acted on by an adjustable spring 25. by which the counter
loop roller 23. can be made to bear with more or less pressure on the loop roller 22.
to give more or less tension or tightness to the stitches. There is also a spring 26.
on the spindle of the counter loop roller to press the roller towards the needle. As
the cloth is fed or progresses forwards, the thread is moved along between the loop
rollers until it finally escapes from their outer ends. The counter loop roller is
preferably made in two or more sections, that is to say discs, in order that a freshly
caught loop may not be interfered with by the action on the rollers of the last
preceding loop. The loop is thrown out towards the back of the machine, being
guided and prevented from catching or entangling by curved plates 27. parts of
which may be coated with glass or porcelain or other material offering little
frictional resistance to the thread.
Each length of thread may be placed in the hook or eye 16. of the needle by
hand, but when speed is an object I provide an automatic threader consisting of a
lever finger which lays a sufficient portion of the thread across the path of the
needle in a manner to be caught by the hook. The thread may be drawn off a
ball or spool 28. successive lengths being automatically threaded and cut off, so
that a continuous seam of any length can be sewn with successive lengths of thread.
When two or more lengths are to be used in the same seam, each succeeding length
is made to form a few stitches along with the tail end of the preceding length;
and the parts thus overlapping may become twisted together so that neither end
will be likely to get loose. When the end of a fresh thread length is taken hold
of by the needle, and the needle makes a circuit, the loop rollers draw from the
ball the full length of thread for which the parts are designed or adjusted, and then

page_text: the thread is cut in a manner to leave a short but sufficient length drawn off the
spool for the next operation of the automatic threader. The thread lengths may
be placed alternately in separate eyes or hooks of the needle; or they may be laid
in one hook alternately in opposite directions in order that the end of the length
just finishing may in being drawn out, draw the end of the new length further into
rather than out of the hook.
The part of the cloth that is being sewn rests on a vertically adjustable plate or
table 29. which may be quite small, and which may be provided with an adjustable
guide fence 30. to regulate or determine the overlap of the stitches, or if desired
with a folding or hemming guide. A part of the table 29. may be inclined down-
wards to allow of large loop rollers or discs being arranged as closely as possible
to the point where the stitch is being formed. Instead of feeding the cloth by
the action of an inclined part of the needle, or in addition to such feeding
action, a four motion feeding device analogous to that of an ordinary sewing
machine may be used, or a toothed feeding wheel may be employed. It is however
mounted on a lever or otherwise, so that although driven continuously it can be
shifted so as to be effective or ineffective as required. Thus if the time during
which the feed movement can take place, is for example one fifth of that taken by
one rotation of the needle, the feed motion may be driven at five times the speed
of the needle, and be effective only at each fifth repitition of its movements.
In
this way a quick feeding action is obtained without complexity of parts. The
time of feeding may be determined by the needle itself, a finger on the feeding
mechanism being on the needle and allowing the mechanism to get into effective
position only when the gap between the point and the tail of the needle comes
round. Provision is also made for rendering the feed device inoperative by hand
when desired; and when starting or finishing a seam two or more stitches may be
made at the same place, so as to securely fasten the thread. Or a finger may be
arranged to move the thread across the path of the needle point in a manner to
cause the interlacing of one stitch with another, either at every stitch, or at the
beginning or end of a seam where it may be wished to form a kind of knot.
To facilitate the passage of the needle through the cloth, a reciprocating piercer
may
be employed and may be arranged to be worked by one of the needle drivers,
or in any other convenient way; or the feeding mechanism may be armed with pins
arranged to pierce the cloth at suitable points whilst feeding it forwards.
The cloth may be held down on the feeding mechanism by a presser foot or other
suitable device, I prefer to use a presser foot in the form of a spring blade.31. fixed
to the machine and made or fitted with a long lever 32. convenient for the hand or
arm of the attendant worker.
The loop roller may be driven by gearing connected with that which drives the
needle and other parts; I however prefer to drive it with a small electric motor,
the conducting wires for which may be led up the pedestal carrying the machine.
The cord or belt 33. actuated by the electric motor is shewn in Figure 1. By
these means the high speed required is obtainable in a direct manner.
The needle may be made of wire of U-section to have strength with lightness
and to allow of easy shaping into the circular form, and it preferably bended to
curve of larger than the proper radins so as to require some compression when
being placed in position; and so as to exert some spring pressure against its drivers.
Each needle hook or eye is prevented from catching in the cloth either by the
entrance for the thread being covered or closed by a separate small spring which
yields to the pressure of the thread, or by an equivalent spring formation of the
turned back part constituting the hook. The point or tail of the needle or both
may be separate short pieces fitted into sockets in the main part of the needle, so as
be easily renewable. The needle drivers may be made with moveable parts acted
on by springs to increase their grip of the needle. The mode of operating the
machine is as follows:-
The material to be sewn is laid on the table 29, before or after the needle has
been threaded, and kept in position by the presser foot 31. and the fence 30. The

page_text: machine being then set in motion the needle carries the thread through the cloth
when it is instantly caught by the loop and counterloop rollers 22. and 23, and
thrown out in the form of a loop, such loop being drawn tight when next the
needle passes through the cloth, the action being illustrated more particularly in
Figure 11. The point of the needle piercing at a new place each time, feeds the
cloth forward as described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
In sewing machines :--
(1) The general construction, combination and arrangement of parts as herein-
before described and illustrated on the appended sheets of drawings or any mere
modification or modifications thereof.
(2) The needle and its various modifications, together with the mechanism for
supporting, confining and driving the same, substantially as hereinbefore described
and more particularly illustrated at Figures 1. to 9. and 11. of the appended
drawings.
(3) The mechanism for supporting, confining, and driving the needle substan-
tially as hereinbefore described and illustrated at Figures 1. to 5. of the appended
drawings.
(4) The method of forming the stitch as illustrated and described or of forming
it by any other known combination of mechanism.
(5) The application of antifriction appliances of any suitable known kind as
described.
(6) The application of engaging and disengaging mechanism by foot or otherwise
as described.
(7) The arrangement and construction of mechanism for drawing the loop or
slack thread through the cloth and tightening the stitches as described and
illustrated at Figures 1. to 5, 10. and 11. of the appended drawings.
(8) The arrangement and construction of the curved plates 27. for preventing
the thread becoming entangled as described and illustrated.
(9) The construction and application of the needle for feeding the cloth as
described and illustrated at Figures 1. to 9. and 11. of the appended drawings.
(10) The arrangement and construction of the presser foot as described and
illustrated.
(11) The application of an electro-motor for the driving of the loop roller as
described.
Dated this 6th day of May 1893.
W. H. BLAKENEY.