An Improved Mode of Manufacturing Shoes.
Year: 1899

page_text: An Improved Mode of Manufacturing Shoes.
We, WILLIAM STEPHENS CLARK, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, and WILLIAM
KIRKLAND, Manager, both of Street, in the County of Somerset, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:
The object of this invention is to combine the ease and comfort of the "veld-
schoon" with the sightliness of the dress shoe.
In effecting this object, we slit the upper at a point where the waist com
mences, from the edge inwards, for a short distance, and in lasting the shoc, we
bend the edge of the upper, from the slits to the heel, over the insole, in the usual
manner.
The fore part, or remaining portion of the upper, from the slits to the toe, we
bend outwards, and secure it to the outer sole, laying it upon the flesh side of the
outer sole, to receive the stitches for securing the parts together.
Before the sewing, a template may be employed (fitting over the upper) to assist
in bringing the upper to shape on the last, ready for the sewing.
The channelling for the stitches we make, as usual, on the face of the outer
sole, and the edge of the flesh side of that portion of the sole upon which the
upper is to be laid, we prefer to reduce in thickness, and thus provide a bed for
the edge of the upper to lie in, thus giving to the sole an appearance of uni-
form thickness throughout.
"
By forming the "veldschoon with the upper bent inwards, and secured to the
insole, as heretofore, to form the waist, the shape essential to a good appearance
of shoe is secured, and that with the well-known advantages-lightness and flexi-
""
veldschoon construction.
bility due to the "
1 1900
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicants.

page_text: <
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
--
The object of this invention is to combine the ease and comfort of the "veld-
schoon," with the sightliness of the dress shoe.
.
Our invention relates to the manufacture of shoes in which the upper at a
point where the waist commences is slit from the edge inwards, for a short dis-
tance on either side of the shoe, and, in lasting the shoe, the edge of the upper
is bent from the slits to the heel over the insole, in the usual manner, and in
which the fore part, or remaining portion of the upper, from the slits to the toe,
is bent outwards, and secured to the outer sole, being laid upon the flesh-side of
the outer sole, to receive the stitches for securing the parts together.
In the accompanying drawings,
Fig. 1 shews, in plan view, the upper attached to the last by a lacing cord,
ready to receive the outer sole: This sole is shewn in plan view on the flesh side
at Fig. 2, in edge view at Fig. 3, and in cross section at Fig. 4.
The face of the sole is channelled in the usual way, to receive the line of
stitches, and on the flesh or inner side, the sole is rebated or thinned down to an
extent equal in thickness to that of the upper, for the purpose to be presently
explained.
In the manufacture of our improved shoe, we prefer to dispense with the use
of lasting tacks, and to strain the upper over the last by a cord a, applying, for
that purpose, metal eyelets 6 to the upper, for the reception of the cord. This
cord may be passed at tension round the toe of the upper, as indicated in the
drawing, and thereby serve to crease the upper, and hold it firmly against the
last, to give it the proper indent.
In place of the tension cord being applied around the toe, as shewn at Fig. 1,
we may use a template, such as that shewn, in the elevation, Fig. 5, and in plan
view at Fig. 6, which represents the template as in a position to approach the
lasted upper, the last being mounted on a fixed stand.
The template itself consists of a pair of arms A A, hinged together, or pivotted
on a pin carried by an arm 1 of a bracket support B, which bracket support has
a pair of arms 2, 3, which are rebated on their inner face, to form rests for the
extremities of the template arms. Bearing upon the back edge of these tem-
plate arms, are adjusting screws C, which enter tapped holes made to receive them
in the arms 2, 3, of the bracket support, or, instead of adjusting screws, spring
pressure may be used to give an inward impulse to the template arms.
The bracket B is mounted in a slide of the bed-plate D, which carries the
support for the last F.
In applying the template, its bracket support is pushed forward towards, the
last, until the toe of the last rests in a hollow in the arm 1, and the template, if
set screws are provided, as shown, is then caused, by the adjustment of the screws,
to tighten upon the upper on the last, and effect a proper creasing of the same,
preparatory to the sewing operation.
The suitably channelled sole is then applied to the last, and sewn to the upper
in the usual way of uniting together the parts composing the " veldschoon," the
stitches extending from the slit on one side of the shoe to the slit on the opposite
side thereof.
The object of reducing the thickness of the sole, as above mentioned, and illus-
trated at Fig. 2, is to provide a bed for the overlapping margin of the upper to
lie in, and thereby secure to the sole an appearance of uniform thickness through-
out, as shown in the side elevation at Fig. 7.
The attachment of the remaining part of the sole to the upper, we effect in the
manner common to the trade, and thereby complete what we term the combination
stitchdown," taking care that the metal eyelets 6 shall be sufficiently covered to
prevent any discomfort to the wearer, or even any indication of their presence
in the shoe.
By forming the combination" stitchdown" according to our invention, the

page_text: shape essential to a good appearance of shoe is secured, and that with the well-
known advantages, lightness and flexibility, due to the veldschoon" con-
struction.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we wish it to be
understood that we are aware that it has been proposed to make shoes in which
the marginal edge of the upper is slit or cut through at a point between the waist
and the fore part and turned inwardly over the outersole in the waist and out-
wardly over the outersole in the fore part and connected thereto by sewing, and
we make no general claim to this construction of shoe, but we declare that what
we claim is: :-
The mode of manufacturing boots and shoes of the combination stitch down
kind consisting in the compression of the fore parts of the upper around the last
by means of a template or similar device and securing the edges thereof to a
recessed sole in the manner above explained.
ated this 18th day of January 1900
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicants.