Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 6th July, 1892
Complete Specification Left. 29th Mar., 1893-Accepted, 29th Apr., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
1, GEORGE MATTHIAS LARKMAN of 43 Duke Street, Northampton, in the
County of Northampton, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention consists of making a turned welted boot or shoe.
The sole is channelled and laid upon a last either bevelled or with a lip; the
welt is laid round the shoe and tacked. The upper is then drawn over the last
with the lining outwards, and the boot or shoe is then lasted as for ordinary turned
work; then braced, the tacks withdrawn, and sewn. The seam is then pared, the
shoe turned and stitched.
The work can be done either by hand or machine, and for machine work what is
known in the trade as the Goodyear Welt Sewing and Lock Stitching Machines
will be found particularly well adapted to perform the work required.
T
01. l.ו
T... 1000
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
I, GEORGE MATTHIAS LARKMAN of 43 Duke Street, Northampton, in the
County of Northampton, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention consists of making a turned welted boot or shoe.
The sole is channelled and laid upon a last either bevelled or with a lip; the
welt is laid round the sole and tacked."
The upper is then drawn over the last with the lining outwards, and the boot or
shoe is then lasted as for ordinary turned work; then braced, the tacks withdrawn,
and sewn.
The seam is then pared, the shoe turned and stitched.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 shews the inside view of a sole channelled at a and ready to be laid upon
a last. In the upper half part of the view the sole A is shewn as having been
bevelled whilst in the lower half part of the view the sole A is shewn with a
lip a
Fig. 2 is a cross section of a complete sole cut with a bevel as in the upper
part of Fig. 1 and Fig. 3 is a like view of a sole cut with a lip a as in lower half,.
of Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 shews a view of a sole as in the lower half of Fig. 1 and in Fig. 3 mounted
on a last B, with a welt blaid around on the feather a' against the shoulder or base
of the lip a¹ and temporarily secured therein by the tacks a³.
Fig. 5 shews the sole as in Fig. 4 with the welt b in position and with an upper c
with its lining c¹ outwards drawn over the last and lasted as for ordinary turned
work, care retaining or "bracing" threads passing through edges of upper, welt
and lip of sole.
The tacks * are withdrawn and the upper, welt and base of lip of sole sewn
together. The seam is then pared and then the shoe is taken off the last turned
outside in and replaced on the last.

page_text: Fig. 6 is a transverse section on a larger scale taken on line 1-1, Fig. 5.
Fig. 7 shews a side view of a shoe so turned and replaced on the last and in
Fig. 8 the underside of the sole shewn by the previous figure is illustrated at being
a channel for the stitching e to enter in order to pass through sole A and welt 6 as
shewn by the finished shoe in side view indicated by Fig. 9.
Fig. 10 indicates by a longitudinal side section drawn to an enlarged scale the
construction of the parts of a shoe similar to Fig. 5.
Fig. 11 shews a section of one part of one side of a shoe, drawn to a larger scale
than Fig. 6 and shewing the parts after sewing through the channel a; and the sole
welt and upper have been secured together.
Fig. 12 shews the parts of the corresponding half section of a shoe after such
sewing, after the lip of the channel a has been closed down and after the edges of
the sole, welt and upper that will be within the finished shoe have been trimmed
and after the shoe has.been turned and the face of the sole previously inside the
shoe, has become the outside face or the treading surface for the wearer.
The outer edge of the welt is also tooled and assimilated to the contour of the
sole as shewn, but this latter manipulation separately considered forms no part of
my invention.
A boot or shoe made in this manner possesses amongst other advantages the
benefit of lightness, flexibility, and increased elegance of appearance with economy
in manufacture.
The stitching work can be done by hand or machine and for such machine work,
the machine known in the trade as Goodyear Welt Sewing and Lock Stitching
Machines will be found particularly well adapted to perform the work required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the saine is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In the manufacture of a turned boot or shoe the channelling or feathering of
the sole, the laying and tacking of a welt on the said feather against the shoulder,
the drawing thereover of an upper having its lining outwards and the lasting of the
upper, the bracing and sewing of the upper, welt and sole the paring of the seam
all whilst upon the last; in combination with the subsequent turning of the shoe
and its stitching substantially as set forth.
2. A boot or shoe produced by channelling an thering of the sole, the
securing on said feather of a welt and thereto of an upper, lining outwards, the
lasting of same and the sewing of the upper welt and sole together, paring of
the seam all whilst on the last and the turning relasting and stitching of the welt
and sole substantially as set forth.
3. In a turned boot or shoe, a sole channelled and feathered internally and whilst
fixed outside downward on a last sewn to a "welt" and "upper" lining outwards
and then said sole welt and upper "turned" and stitched all as and for the purpose
set forth.
4. In the manufacture of a turned boot or shoe a sole channelled and feathered,
on its inside laid and secured outside downward on a last and laying and securing
on said feather a welt in combination with ordinary bracing stitching turning and
finishing as set forth.
5. In the manufacture of a turned boot or shoe the formation of a sole by
channelling and feathering the same on its inside and securing on said feather a
welt adapted to be subsequently secured and sewn to the sole and an upper as set
forth.
Dated tho
1
1
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.