Improvements in Machines for Cutting Forms or Patterns from Cloth.
Year: 1888

page_text: Improvements in Machines for Cutting Forms or Patterns from
Cloth.
I, GABRIEL JOHAN WILHELM GALSTER, of Temple Court, in the City and Stato
of New York, United States of America, Mechanical Engineer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention, and in what munner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My present invention relates to an improved device for cutting forms or patterns
from a layer or series of layers of fibrous or other material adapted to be made up
into clothing or other similar articles in which soctions of a given form or configura-
tion are essential to the perfection of the garment or article when the sections are
united.
The object of my invention generally is to furnish a small sized compact cloth cutting
machine complete in itself and which may be readily moved from table to table as
desired. To this end it consists generally in mounting in any suitable manner upon
the standard of the cutting machine a small air or gas motor which may be fed from
any suitable reservoir by means of a flexible tube of any desired length. In this way
I am enabled to dispense with the devices ordinarily employed for communicating
motion from a stationary source of power to a movable cutter.
In the accompanying drawings forming part of this specification:
Fig. 1, is a side elevation of one form of machine embodying my invention.
Fig. 2, is an end elevation of the same partly in section.
Fig. 3, is a side elevation of my machine provided with a different form of cutting
devices.
Fig. 4, is an end elevation of the same.
In the drawings I have illustrated a machine provided with interchangable parts
whereby the operator may employ either a circular cutter as shown in Figs. 3 and 4,
or a pair of straight cutters as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2.
For convenience I will first describe a machine as equipped with the circular cutter
as illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4.
A, is a bed plate having a tapering forward portion A', adapted to pass under the
layer or layers of material to be cut. To the upper side of this bed plate is attached
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page_text: a vortical standard B, adapted to support the cutter H, and the air or gas motor în a
manner which will be presently described.
C, is an air or gas cylinder of any suitable construction provided with rotary
piston wheels ns D, D', whereby a rotary motion is transmitted to the cutter H, through
the pinions E and G, and the intermediate gear wheel F. The rotary pistons as D, D',
are journaled in the air cylinder so that the teeth of the same fit and form a tight
joint with the inner surface of the cylinder which is describal on the periphery of a
circle in the ordinary manner. Pinion E, is placed on the axis of the piston wheel 1),
which is extended through th casing of cylinder (, for that purpose as shown in
Fig. 4.
The intermediate gear wheel F, meshes with the pinion E and with the
pinion (, and is journaled on the outside of the cylinder C, in any suitable manner.
The pinion G, and the rotary enter I. are attached to the opposite ends of the
shaft, as shown, the shati 1. being journaled in the projection ), from the
cylinder (
The shaft I, is extended through slot i, in the standard B, as shown, and the
cutter H, is attached to it on the outside of the standard. The slot i, is elongated
vertically to permit of a vertical adjustment of the cutter on the standard in a manner
which will be presently describe).
The piston wheels 1, D', are driven in the ordinary manner by compressed air or
gas admitted into the cylinder U, through the inlet pipe 0, to which is connected a
flexible supply pipe Votang: Pr 1 &ngth leading to the soures of the compressed
air or s
The exhaust is indicated at P.
The supply may be controlled by a three way valve O³, located at the junction of
the inlet pipe O, and the supply pipe Y, as illustrated in Fig. 1, the construction there
shown being the same in all respects as the muchine illustrated in Fig. 3 and 4.
The parts of the machine are put together in the following manner.
The cylinder, with the parts attache 1, that is to say, the piston wheels D, D', the
pinion E, and the intermediate gar wheel F, journaled on its exterior, the extension »).
the shaft I, and the gear wheel, at the rear end thereof, is secured to a face plato e¹,
by means of the screws 1, 2, 3, as illustrated in the drawings.
The cutter H, is secured to the front end of the shaft I, by any suitable
device.
These parts are then adjustably secured to the standard B, by means of a sot
screw K, passing through a slot K', in the wandard B. This slot is elongated
vertically as shown so that the cutter and the operating parts may be bodily raised
and lowered to take up the wear of the cutter or to adjust the machine to the
necessities of the case. In this vertical adjustment the cylinder is guided upon the
standard or the standard is guided upon the cylinder by the guide picers 7, 8. secured
upon the face plate, and bearing upon and guiding the sides of the standard B, as
shown, so that the relative movements of the standard and cylinder will be in a vertical
straight line. This object is further accomplished by means of the ongagement of tho
shaft I, with the sides of the slot i.
1, represents an emery wheel or other suitable sharpening device secured to the
standard B, in convenient proximity to the cutter H, and in such manner that it may
be brought into and out of operative relation to the cutter. It is mounted upon one
end of the lever X, pivoted at N, the other and of which is provided with a suitable
and hold L. Through lever X, the emery wheel L, will be brought to bear upon
the entting wheel 11, so that the cutter may be ground down and sharpened by the
motion communicated to it by its own driving mechanism. The hand hold L, is
arranged in convenient proximity to the handle W, so that it may be conveniently
manipulated by one finger of the hand which is manipulating the machine by the
handle W, leaving the other hand free. The emery wheet is normally held out of
operativo position by the spring P.
W, represents the handle by which the machine is presented to the work and
manipulated as desired. The operation of the line is as follows:-
The cutter is presented to the work and the compressed air or gus is admitted to the

page_text: cylinder by opening the valve O'. The piston wheels D, D', are then driven in the
direction of the arrows as shown the motion of the piston wheel D, giving rise to a
corresponding notion of the pinion E, which motion is communicated through the
intermediate gear wheel F, to the pinion G, thereby giving the desired rotary motion
to the circular knife H.
When it is desired to lessen the speed or stop the machine either temporarily or
permanently, the valve O' is either wholly or partially closed thus wholly or partially
shutting off the supply.
The machine now described as provided with a rotary cutter may be readily
converted into a machine provided with a longitudinal reciprocating cutter as shown
in Figs. 1 and 2.
Referring now to Figs. 1 and 2, A, is the base plate of the machine as before
provided with a tapering forward portion A¹. To this base plate is rigidly attached
a cutting blade H, provided with cutting teeth as shown. This cutting blade above
the teeth is expanded into the form of the face plate of Figs. 3 and 4, and is adapted
to fit and be secured to cylinder C, by means of the screws 1, 2 and 3, as described
in connection with Figs. 3 and 4.
Removing now the face plate c', of the rotary machine by loosening the screws 1,
2, and 3, the cutter H, with the attached standard and base is secured to the
cylinder by means of the screws 1, 2, 3. The moving cutter H¹, is secured to
the fixed cutter by means of the set screws m, m, passing through vertically
elongated slots m³, in said movable cutter in such manner that the cutter is capable of
a vertically longitudinal movement upon the fixed cutter. This movement of the
cutter H¹, is produced in the following manner :—
Secured to the upper end of the movable cutter H³, is a backwardly projecting
pin or friction wheel R, extending through a slot, in the fixed cutter H, and
taking into an eccentric groove 7, in the face of gear wheel F. This slot, in
the fixed cutter H³, is of course elongatod to permit of the vertically reciprocating
motion of the pin or pinion R, and the cutter H¹. By this construction the rotary
motion of the gear wheel F, gives rise to a vertically reciprocating movement of
the cutter H.
F, is a feed wheel located just in advance of the cutting blades and is attached to
and driven by the machine in the following manner :-
Adjustably secured to the upper extension of the fixed cutter H2, is a supporting
frame S, which extends downwardly in the rear of the back edge of the fixed cutter
and then forwardly to the front of the machine in such manner as to furnish a journal
for the shaft, of the feed wheel F. The rotary motion of the feed wheel F', is
derived from the shaft I, by means of the bevel
b, and
is a bevel gear
gear a,
d.
e, a,
wheel attached to the outer end of the shaft I, in the position formally occupied by
the rotary cutter H. d, is a bevel gear attached to the end of the shaft f¹, of the feed
wheel F¹.
The shaft t, having the bevel gear 6 and e, at its upper and lower end respectively,
meshing with the bevel gear a and d, is mounted in bearings h, and . These
bearings are loosely attached by rings or bands of metal, the bearing h, to the outer
end of the shaft I, and the bearing, to the outer end of shaft f¹. As the bearings
are free to revolve upon the ends of the shafts I and f', the relative position of the
feed wheel F, and the shaft I, with reference to the vertical line may be altered
without throwing the bevel gear a, b, and d, e, out of engagement.
The shaft t, passes loosely through the bevel gear b, and is caused to rotate by
means of the engagement of a pin on the inner surface of the bevel gear b, indicated
at g, Fig. 1, which takes into a slot in the shaft t. This slot is elongated in the
direction of the length of the shaft so that the shaft may slide through the bevel gear
to a certain extent and still retain its operative connection with it.
By means of the construction now described the frame S, with the feed wheel
attached may be raised to accommodate a thicker layer of material beneath and all the
parts remain in an operative condition. For this purpose the frame S, is adjustably

page_text: secured to the fixed plate as described by means of the set scrow 8,
through an elongated slot, in the frame S.
which passos
In Fig. 1, the supply valve O', is shown as controlled by hand or finger hold Q,
which is normally held in a position to close the valve by the spring T." The haud
hold Q, is located in immediate proximity to the handle W, so that it may be easily
controlled by the operator.
The operation of the machine sot up as now described is substantially the same in
all respects essentially to my present invention as that described in Figs. 3 and 4, the
only difference being that in this form of machine the rotary cutter is replaced by
outting bindes one fixed and one movable to sover the cloth by a combined cutting
and shearing operation in a manner which will be readily understood from the
inspection of the drawing.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a cloth cutting machine the combination with a bed plate and standard, of an
air or gas motor supported by the latter, a flexible supply pipe, and cutting devices
also supported by the standard and driven by said motor.
2. In a cloth cutting machine, the combination with a bud plate and standard, of
an air or gas motor supported by the latter, suitable cutting devices, and a feed wheel,
said cutting devices and the feed wheel being also supported by said standard and
driven by said motor.
3. A cloth cutting machine having a base plate, a standard, an air or gas motor
supported on said standard and having interchangable parts whereby it may be
provided with a rotary cutter or a pair of straight cutters, said cutters being supported
hy said standard and driven by said motor.
4. In a cloth cutting machine, the combination with a bed plate and standard, of
an air or gas motor supported by the latter, a flexible supply pipe, cutting devices
driven by said motor, and a supply cock having a hand hold in convenient proximity
to the handle of the machine.
5. In a cloth outting machine the combination with a base plate and standard, of
an air or gas motor supported by the latter, cutting devices driven by said motor, a
feed wheel adjustably supported by said standard and drivon by said motor in all
positions of adjust mont.
Dated this 20th day of October 1887.