IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SEAMLESS GARMENTS AND OTHER SEAMLESS
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Moses Poole, of Serle Street, in the County
of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SEAMLESS GARMENTS AND OTHER SEAMLESS
A
of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SEAMLESS GARMENTS AND OTHER SEAMLESS
munication.
Sealed the 21st January 1853, and dated the 19th November 1852.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Moses Poole at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 19th November 1852.
I, MOSES POOLE, of Serle Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SEAMLESS GARMENTS. AND OTHER
SEAMLESS FABRICS" to be as follows:
This Invention consists of forming bats or fleeces of wool or other
felting fibres, on shapes or forms suitable for making parts of
garments or articles, then cutting or separating the same, and joining
the edges by felting the whole into garments, the parts of which
garment or other article is formed, being temporarily connected by
silk or other non-felting thread, which may be withdrawn when the
felting has connected at the edges; the felted garments or articles

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters
Patent, filed by the said Moses Poole in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 5th May 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
MOSES POOLE, of Serle Street, in the County of Middlesex, send
grecting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of November, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two,
in the sixteenth year of Her reign, did for Herself, Her heirs, and
successors, give and grant unto me, the said Moses Poole, Her
special license, that I, the said Moses Poole, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Moses Poole, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SEAMLESS GAR-
MENTS AND OTHER SEAMLESS FABRICS"
the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Moses Poole, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
upon
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Moses Poole, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof (that is to say):
This Invention is communicated from Samuel Perkins, of Spring-

page_text: field, Pennsylvania, United States of America, and consists of forming
bats or fleeces of wool, or other felting fibres, on shapes or forms
suitable for making parts of garments or articles, then cutting or
separating the same, and joining the edges by felting the whole into
garments or articles. The parts of which a garment or other
article is formed, being temporily connected by silk or other
non-felting thread, which may be withdrawn when the felting has
been connected at the edges. The felting garments or articles are
put on to shapes formed of parts, in order to get them into the
desired form. And in order that the Invention may be more fully
understood and readily carried into effect, I will proceed to describe
the means pursued by the Inventor.

page_text: rails, g, on the table D. The to and fro motion to the frame
carrying the rollers a, b, c, is communicated thereto by the means
which I will now describe, or by other suitable apparatus. On the
carriage C, is fixed a toothed rack i, to which motion is given first
in one direction, and then in the other, by the cog wheel E, on the
axis of which is fixed a pulley F, acted on alternately by straps
G, G, which move in opposite directions; the strap for the time
being out of action being on its loose drum H, and the distance
through which the frame or carriage is alternately moved, is to be
regulated by means of a reversing fork, as is well understood. I, is
a doffing cylinder, which continuously receives a fleece or bat, and
from which it is removed, as is well understood, by the comb or
instrument J. The fleece K, is moved by the feed rollers as it
comes from the doffing cylinder, and moves the same towards the
apron A, as will readily be understood by examining the Drawing.
The feed rollers M, are placed in an inclined position, as the fleece is
divided as it proceeds from the doffing cylinder towards the apron
by means of shears L, put in motion by any suitable apparatus;
but this may be varied according to the nature of the form which
for the time being is to be covered with the fleece. N¹, N2, are two
shapes on the apron A; only one, however, is receiving the fleece;
and one part of the shape N', is shown in the act of being covered
with the fleece, the other half of N1, being shown uncovered; but
when actually at work one half of the fleece would be applied to
one half of the form N¹, and the other half of the fleece would be
applied to the other half of the form N¹, and the form of felted
fabric which would be produced by such a form as N1, N2, would
be that shown at Figure 9. And the fleece is so applied to the form
N', that the successive layers thereof cross in opposite directions as
is indicated by the covered part of the form. N', in Figure .1; and
such a fleece when divided as indicated by the red line in Figure 9,
and completed as shown at Figure 10, will form a pair of mittens..
The operation for making gloves is like that described for mittens,
except that the forms used for receiving the bat or fleece. are
different, as indicated at Figures 11, and 12, and the .thumbs for

page_text: mittens or gloves are similarly produced, as will be understood by
reference to Figure 13. The lines of division of the fleece' are
indicated respectively by the lines (1), (1), (2), (2), and (3), (3),
in the Figures 9, 11, 13. And in making openings for the "thumbs"
and "fingers," openings are torn; and the thumb and finger pieces
are fastened somewhat loosely by stitching with needle and thread,
using non-felting thread for such purpose. The mittens and gloves
are then to be subjected to the ordinary felting process, taking care,
as is well understood, that the surfaces do not felt together by
keeping them separate, except at the edges where they are to be
felted, and by felting connected together, by which means seamless
mittens and gloves will be produced, and their threads temporarily
used may
be withdrawn. The operation for making coats,. panta-
loons, vests, and other articles of dress, is like that above explained,
using, however, different shapes or forms to receive the fleece or
bat; in which cases the whole undivided bat will be used, the
shears will be removed, and the rollers P, employed in place of
those at M, and the forms P, Q, covered in place of N1, N2, by which.
the forms of fleece Figure 14, and Figure 16, will be obtained, and
they will be divided respectively at the lines (4), (4), and (5), (5),
and openings will be made for the arms at m, m, at the upper part
as shewn at Figure 15, there being a V formed piece torn out at
the back of the neck, also pieces 1, 1, for receiving shoulder pieces.
The gore in the back and the shoulder pieces are sewed in tempo-
rarily, and then the sleeves; the coat is then shrunk by felting and
the threads removed. In making vests, a similar course will be
pursued, leaving out the sleeves; and for making seamless panta-
loons, the legs are attached to a body piece in a similar manner.
Figure 17, and Figure 18, show a block for stretching a coat on; it
is made in two halves, and joined or hinged together at the back,
to facilitate the getting a coat thereon; the front of the coat being
placed on the pins, the shutting of the block will stretch the felt
into form, the felt being wet, and in this state the outer surface is to
be dressed, and then left to dry, when it is to be taken off the
block, and trimmed and finished according to taste.

page_text: Having thus described the nature of the Invention, and the
manner of performing the same, I would have it understood that I
do not confine myself to the details thereof, so long as garments or
articles are made of parts of felt and combined at the edges, and
felted to one another so as to produce seamless garments and
articles; and it will be evident from the above description that the
"forms" or shapes used for making the "fleece" or "bat" into the
proper shapes may be varied from those shown. What I claim, is
the manufacture of seamless garments or articles produced by
making and joining the parts by felting, as herein described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Moses Poole, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of March, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-
three.
Witness,
MOSES POOLE. (L.S.)
B. GOBEY.