IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES."
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Hugh Ovans, of 14, Merchants Quay, in the City of
Dublin, Ireland, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Hugh Ovans at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 18th October 1881.
HUGH OVANS, of 14, Merchants Quay, in the City of Dublin, Ireland.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES."
This Invention relates to improvements in boots and shoes, the object of the
Invention being to provide a buckle or button boot or shoe with a blocked or
seamless front.
In carrying out my Invention the "quarters" may be made with or without a
seam at the back, in the latter case being blocked to the required shape, or the front
and one quarter may be in one piece.
In the case of a boot or shoe in which the vamp and front are formed of one
piece of leather without seam and blocked to the shape of the foot, it is joined on
to the quarter of one side from top to bottom or is in one piece with the quarter,
and on the other side it is joined to the quarter for a certain distance only from
the bottom upwards, the remainder of this side of the front lapping over the
quarter to admit the foot; this part of the front being provided with a tab
or strap to allow of fastening it to the quarter by one or more buckles or
buttons.
In the case of a boot or shoe with a vamp the front may be either joined to or
in piece with the quarter of one side, the front on the other side lapping over the
quarter to admit the foot; this part of the front being provided with a tab or strap
for fastening it to the quarter by one or more buckles or buttons.
"
In making "waterproof" boots or shoes by this method, I propose to insert a
"bellows tongue" (a piece of thin leather to fold up) at the lap or fold of the
front over the back quarter, to prevent water, &c., from entering the boot or shoe
at this part.
The upper thus formed is then soled and finished in the usual manner.
By this means I thus provide a buckle or button fastening boot or shoe with a
blocked or seamless front.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Hugh Ovans in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 17th April
1882.
HUGH OVANS, of 14, Merchants Quay, in the City of Dublin, Ireland.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES."
This Invention relates to improvements in boots and shoes having a buckle,
button, or other fastening, the object of the Invention being to provide such boots
or shoes with a blocked or seamless front.
In carrying out my Invention the "quarters" or "backs" may be made with or
without a seam at the back, in the latter case being blocked to the required shape,
or the front and one or both "quarters" or backs inay be in one piece.
In the case of a boot or shoe in which the vamp and front are formed of one
piece of leather without seam and blocked to the shape of the foot, it is joined on
to the "back" or "quarter" of one side from top to bottom or is in one piece with
the back or quarter, and on the other side it is joined to the back quarter for a
certain distance only from the bottom upwards; to the remaining edge of this side
of the front a tab or lapel is attached. The side opening so formed serves to
admit the foot and is closed by lapping the front and tab or lapel over the back
quarter.
This tab or lapel is furnished with one or more buckles, buttons, studs, or other
fastenings, to allow of securing it to the back.
In the case of a boot or shoe with a vamp or golosh the front may be either
joined to the back quarter of one side from the top downwards or be in one piece
with it, the front on the other side having attached thereto a tab or flap lapping
over the quarter or back and forming the opening to admit the foot; the tab or
lappel so placed is provided with one or more button or eyelet holes or buckle straps
to allow of fastening it to the back quarter by one or more buckles, buttons, studs,
or other fastenings, the front, the tab, or lapel, and the backs being attached by a
lap seam at their lower part to the vamp or golosh.
The said tab or lapel is preferably formed of a strip of leather doubled or folded
on itself with its free edges sewn to the open edge of the front, and in order to give
the tab or lapel the required degree of stiffness I find it advantageous to insert in
the fold or plait a flat spring blade or plate of steel or other suitable metal, which
allows the boot to be fastened by means of one buckle (or its equivalent) and strap
only. The corresponding back is similarly stiffened by the insertion between the
lining or binding and the back quarter of a similar spring or plate. The two
stiffening springs or plates are jointed at their lower ends by a pivot or rivet, and
in the case of a buckle and strap fastening being employed the spring plate or
blade in the tab or lapel is formed with an enlargement or shoulder, in which is a
slot or elongated hole and the corresponding plate or blade in the back is formed
with a similar enlargement or shoulder pierced with a small circular hole. The
strap to secure the boot or shoe on the foot is attached to the back quarter and to
the shoulder of the spring plate or blade of the same by means of a rivet; the said
strap passes through the slot or hole in the shoulder or enlargement of the front
spring or plate which projects from the edge of the tab or lapel attached to the
front, and thence the strap is passed to the buckle which is also attached to the
back quarter. When this strap is tightened and secured in the buckle the tab or
flap is lapped over the back, and is at the same time closely pressed against it and
thus a secure fastening is obtained by means of a single buckle and strap
fastening.

page_text: "
"
In making "waterproof" boots by this method, I insert a
"bellows tongue
(a gore of flexible leather to fold up) at the lap or fold of the front over the back
quarter to prevent water or mud from entering the boot at this part. The said
bellows tongue
or gore may be formed in the usual way by attaching a tbin
piece of leather to the edges or sides of the opening, or preferably by taking a
thin piece of leather sufficiently large to cover the opening and form the lapel or
tab for the front, and also to form the strip or binding to retain the hereinbefore
described spring blade or plate on the back quarter, and suitably joining it to the
sides of the front and back.
The upper thus formed is then soled and finished in the usual manner.
In order to enable my Invention to be better understood, I will proceed to
describe the same by reference to the accompanying Drawing, in the several Figures
of which similar letters represent similar or corresponding parts.
Figures 1 and 2 are perspective views of the two sides of a boot with the vamp
and front in one piece manufactured according to my Invention, and in which the
fastening is effected by means of a buckle and strap, the boot being shewn
unfastened; Figure 3 is a view shewing the boot fastened; Figure 4 is an enlarged
section through the line A, B, Figure 2; Figures 5 and 6, similar views through
the lines C, D, and E, F, respectively of Figure 3; Figure 7 is a front view of the
stiffening springs or plates.
a is the seamless front and vamp formed of one piece of leather; b is the seam
from top to bottom joining the said front and vamp a to the back or quarter a¹ of
one side (or the front and vamp a may be in one piece with the back or quarter a¹);
c is the seam on the other side joining the vamp and front to the back quarter for
a certain distance only from the bottom, as shewn; d is the tab or lapel on the
remaining edge of this side of the front, formed as clearly shewn in Figures 4, 5,
and 6 by means of the bellows tongue e made of a thin piece of leather sufficiently
large to cover the opening and form the lapel or tab d for the front, and also to
form the strip or binding f, which holds the spring blade or plate g on the back
quarter, this bellows tongue e is shewn in detached view at Figure 17; h is the
spring blade or plate in the lapel d; i, the projection or shoulder on the same, and j
the slot or hole therein; k is the projection or shoulder on the back spring or
plate g, and the circular hole therein for receiving the rivet m, serving to attach
the strap n to the back quarter; o is the buckle for fastening the strap n; P, pivot
on which the stiffening springs or plates are hinged.
Figures 8, 9, and 10, are similar views to Figures 1, 2, and 3, and shew a boot
with a vamp or golosh and blocked front fastened by means of buttons q and
button holes r, instead of by the strap and buckle arrangement herein before
described. This boot is shewn without the herein before described "bellows tongue" e,
the tab or lapel d in this case being preferably formed of a strip of leather
doubled or folded on itself with its free edges sewn to the open edge of the front,
the stiffening spring h being inserted in the fold of the same; the back spring or
plate g is inserted between the lining or binding and the back quarter, the shoulders
or projections on the stiffening springs g and h are dispensed with; it will, however,
be well understood that the bellows tongue e may be employed if desired; b is the
sean joining the front a to the back quarter a' of one side as shewn (or the front a
and back quarter a' may be made in one piece). The front a, the tap or lapel d,
and the backs are attached by a lap seam at their lower part to the vamp or
golosh b¹.
Figures 11, 12, and 13, are similar views to Figures 1, 2, and 3, shewing my
improvements applied to a shoe with an ordinary vamp blocked front a and a
simple tab or lapel d and fastened by the strap n and buckle o.
Figures 14, 15, and 16, similar views of a shoe with seamless front and vamp
in one piece fastened by a button q, which takes into the hole r on the tab or
lapel d.
Having thus described my said Invention and the best means with which I am
acquainted for carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that what

page_text: I claim and intend to be protected by the herein in part recited Letters Patent
is,
Firstly. The manufacture and use of a boot or shoe, or boot or shoe upper or top,
with a blocked or seamless front and an opening in the side to allow the insertion
of the foot, the said opening being secured by a buckle, button, or other suitable
fastenings, substantially as bereinbefore described and represented in the accom-
panying Drawing.
Secondly. The employment for stiffening the sides of the opening or tab or lapel
of boots manufactured as herein described, of blades or strips, such as those
described and shewn in the Drawing, and made of steel or other suitable metal or
material in combination with the buckle, button, or other fastening of the boot,
substantially as described and represented in the accompanying Drawing.
Thirdly. A waterproof boot with a blocked or seamless foot and an opening in
the side, the same being rendered watertight by the insertion of a bellows tongue
or gore, in the manner before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Hugh Ovans, have hereto set my hand and
seal, this Fifteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty two.
HUGH OVANS. (L.S.)