IMPROVEMENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING THE BORDERS, CENTRES, AND HEADINGS OF GREY, COLOURED, AND FIGURED LOONGEES, DHOOTIES, SARIES, SHIRTINGS, T CLOTHS, DOMESTICS, AND OTHER SUCH PIECE GOODS FOR EASTERN MARKETS, AND IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR
Year: 1878

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Christopher Cross at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 9th February 1878.
CHRISTOPHER CROSS, of Mount Street, Pendleton, near Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Manufacturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING THE
BORDERS, CENTRES, AND HEADINGS OF GREY, COLOURED, AND FIGURED LOONGEES,
DHOOTIES, SARIES, SHIRTINGS, T CLOTHS, DOMESTICS, AND OTHER SUCH PIECE
GOODS FOR EASTERN MARKETS, AND IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR"
This Invention relates especially to grey, coloured and figured loongees, dhooties,.
saries, shirtings, T cloths, domestics, imroos, soosees, cholees, turbans, soojnees, isrees,
peshgees, jores, longcloths, mulls, jacconetts, dhorias, and other such piece goods for
Eastern markets, and the first part of my improvements consists in weaving by the
power loom the borders in such a way as to produce velvet cloth alongside and
within the selvages by employing the well-known tabby or longer floated velvet
"tie ups," but in these cases I reverse the relative positions of warp and weft and
employ warp threads only as pile strands, and cut the pile of the border fabric
by the fustian cutter's tool travelling and aiming in the direction of the selvages
across the fabric. These velvet borders may be made with grey or coloured warp
ends, and thus produce grey or variegated pile fabric in the border alone, or I weave
the borders in such a way as to produce the Paisley shawl fabric along and within
the selvages in narrow stripes. In this case I reverse the position of the warp and
weft in the "tie up," and allow the taffa warp to lay dormant on the under side of
the border, or be fiued between the two cloths. Or I weave the borders of the
above goods in such a way as to produce fringes of one or more colours at the
selvage edges of the fabrics. To accomplish this object I employ shedding motions
and whip strands in similar positions in the loom to those employed in .weaving
Indian kutars, as described in the Specification of Simpson and Cross's, Patented
1876, No, 1187, but additional thereto I move the whip strands onward towards
the cloth in positive measured. quantities at each pick by employing cams and
levers with nip and grip action as the whip advances and loose spring action as the
lever retreats to fetch another measured quantity. These advancing and receding
whip actions may be combined with either plain or solid coloured borders, or
Daine 431

page_text: borders usually made with the well-known Alhambra quilt or Paisley shawl
"tie up." In order to produce scollopped borders of one or more colours within
the selvage ends of the fabric, I shed the warp so as to drop or lift the edge ends
one by one out of the way of the weft, and thus weave the cloth broader and
narrower in any ornamental form required, and when I combine scollops, fringes, or
Alhambra "tie ups" together, I employ the positive nip grip and loose actions to
the whip strands in the same manner as I do in weaving the above fringes.
When I make these fringes or kutar and scollopped borders with irregular lengths
of whip at each side, I use a letting-off whip lever with several tail cords of the
shedding motion fastened to such lever at irregular lengths of leverages, and in
some cases I employ a special tappet of irregular jiggers connected with the whip
lever so as to give off positive irregular measurements of the whip strand every
shedding of the loom. .
The second part of my improvements consists in weaving by the power loom the
borders of the above goods, whether made with fringes, scollops or kutar sides in
such a way as to stop the loom when any whip strand shall break at either border.
This object I accomplish by using in any convenient part of the loom ratch a
modification of the well-known hammer and fork arrangeinent now used to stop
power looms when the shuttle weft breaks, but in this case I use whip forks instead
of weft forks, and attach the grappling hook of the whip fork in contact to the
usual hammer, or place fresh vibrating hammers working every pick of the loom
in convenient parts of the back of the loom close to the whip, so that when the whip
breaks the whip-fork hook comes in contact with the hammer hook and throws
the strap on to the loose pulley.
In other cases to stop the loom when the whip thread breaks, I pass the whip
through an eye in light sensitive plummets with levers and vibrating bars close to
the whip, which are actuated in a similar way as is commonly used to stop the
machine when an end breaks in the tape warping frame, in doubling frame, and
drawing frame.
In other cases I stop the loom when the whip breaks by employing the magnetic
battery and coils in convenient parts of the loom, so that the electric current will
be reversed when the whip strand is absent from its usual position; it thus brings
metal to metal, and throws the driving strap on to the loose pulley of the loom as
in the case of magnetic intermediate frame in the card room.
The third part of my improvements consists in weaving in the power loom the
body centres and headings of the above goods by using a shuttle or shuttles, each
of which shall contain and throw two or more cops or weft pirns at every pick over
the loom. I effect this by means of strong picking parts and large shuttles, and in
some cases I fix the cop or pirns side by side in the shuttle and thus require
broader or higher shuttles, and in other cases I fix the cop or pirns end to end, or
else nose to nose with eyes in the middle, and thus require longer shuttles than
those in ordinary use. By these means I prevent the twirling of one weft thread
round the other, and fill up the fabric for any "tie up" in a rapid manner with an
even surface.
"1
The fourth part of my improvements consists in weaving in the power loom the
headings or tub ends of the above goods, only in a more elaborate and ornamental
inanner than the centre or general body length of the pieces. This I accomplish by
forming a series of combination " tie ups," with a variety of colours of weft to each
necking up or gaiting of the loom. The shedding of these combination "tic ups'
may be made by either jacquard, dobby, or tappets, as the case may be, but in all
cases the jacks, hooks, or warp ends, must be so fined as to allow the primary
actuating cards, lags, or cams, to retire and advance to and from their work, to be
thrown in and out of geer, in accordance with the particular "tie up" required to
be woven either in centre body or ornamental headings of the piece.
As one illustration among many which I can produce, when it is required to
weave the centre body length of any two different combination "tie ups" and
then at the ornamental headings to weave two other different combination "tie ups,"

page_text: special care must be observed that the largest number of warp threads in each
draft of the largest "tie up" is an exact multiple of each of the other lesser drafts.
Only one "tie up" or pattern can be woven at once, but when changes have to be
made, then new "tie ups" must be brought into work, so as to tread the ends
differently and so ring changes indefinately in diamonds, brilliants, and figures, as
the cards, lugs, cams, or jiggers, shall indicate. I find a very effective result in
heading by using a common loom with four tappet cams, say two or any multiple
of two, to the round working four traddles or healds.
When the centre body length fabric is being made, the first and third end rises
on the first pick and second and fourth end rises on the second pick, but by placing
two of the cans loosley on the tappet shaft and turning them half a circle round
with a clutch box, then the heading may be made of, say, royal rib "tie up," by
which the first and fourth end rises on the first pick and second and fourth end
rises on the second pick.
Care inust also be taken when it is desirable to make headings very rich and
effective, to arrest the taking-up part of the loom at that portion of the pattern by.
causing the hooks, jacks, or any tappet attached to the loom to suspend or diminish
the taking-up part as many or as few picks as the pattern requires, and thus by
this method cloth can be made thick or thin wherever required. In these headings.
one shuttled loom may be employed by the weaver changing the colours of the weft,
but looms with two, three, or more shuttles may be used, in which the changing
of the shuttles is first acted upon by the jacquard, dobby or endless chain and
intermediate tappets, so as to throw any colour of weft across the shed at any time.
And, fifthly, my improvements consist in weaving by the power loom the heading
of the above goods in such a way as to produce velvet cloths in the heading at
either end of the piece.
"
I make combination and multiple "tie up" according to the pattern required,
and then throw into action such shedding motion as I want to make the central
body of the piece, and then throw into action any ordinary velvet heading "tie up
with any other colour of weft; or I use either shuttle or common looms to produce
variegated effects, and cut the pile afterwards by the fustian cutter's tool in parallel
lines to the warp.