Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Collars, used as Wearing Apparel.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 5th July, 1898
Complete Specification Left, 5th Apr., 1899-Accepted, 6th May, 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Collars, used as
Wearing Apparel.
A communication from abroad by the FENWICK COLLAR AND CUFF MACHINE
COMPANY, of Portland, Maine, having their principal office at 24. Randolph
Street, Boston, in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of
America, Machinists.
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES. of 55 and 56, Chancery Lane, in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object the production of a novel standing collar used
as an article of wearing apparel.
The collar may be composed of as many plies or blanks as desired, but for con-
venience of explanation, I will describe it as composed of two blanks, one for the
outer side and one for the inner side, and inasmuch as these blanks are similarly
folded, it will suffice to describe one of them in detail.
The blank has its small end which is to constitute the tab, and the adjacent
end, infolded, and thereafter the top and bottom longitudinal edges are infolded,
and then the opposite en. is folded over, the opposite tab being finally folded,
thereby leaving a sort of a hook at this last end, while at the opposite end the tab
end fold is overlapped by the adjacent folds; in other words, one tab has its end
overlapped on the adjacent folds, while the other tab has its end overlapped by the
adjacent folds.
Having folded the two blanks precisely the same, one of them is turned en.l to
end so as to bring its overlapping end opposite the over lapped end of the other
blank, and then the overlapping or hook-like end is inserted against the overlapped
end of the opposite blank, being tucked under the adjacent edges which overlap
said end.
Likewise the opposite ends will be interlocked in the same manner as above
described, and so also will the upper corners of the collar be interlocked or inter-
lapped, the folds thereof, as already described, permitting said interlapping.
The operator then inturns the ends of the blanks adjacent the tabs on a urve,
stretching the material at that point in order to accomplish this folding, thereby
avoiding notching or cutting the material as has heretofore been considered
necessary.
In forming the upper corners of the collar, especially when it presents an acute
angle, the operator provides supplemental folds by laying or folding over the top
fold back from the other folds, and on itself.
The blanks having been folded, placed face to face, and interlocked as stated,

page_text: are then stitched together through and through from one to the other end of the
collar, without requiring any turning or other manipulation.
Dated the 2nd day of July 1898.
WM. BROOKES & SON.
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London,
Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Collars, used as
Wearing Apparel.
A communication from abroad by the FENWICK COLLAR AND CUFF MACHINE
COMPANY, of Portland, Maine, having their principal office at 24, Randolph
Street, Boston, in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of
America, Machinists.
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES, of 55 and 56. Chancery Lane, in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:--
This invention has for its object the production of a novel standing collar used
as an article of wearing apparel.
The collar may be composed of as many plies or blanks as desired, but for con-
venience of explanation. I will describe it as composed of two blanks, one for the
outer side and one for the inner side, and inasmuch as these blanks are similarly
folded, it will suffice to describe one of them in detail.
The blank has its small end which is to constitute the tab, and the adjacent
end, infolded, and thereafter the top and bottom longitudinal edges are infolded,
and then the opposite end is folded over, the opposite tab being finally folded.
thereby leaving a sort of a hook at this last end, while at the opposite end the tab
end fold is overlapped by the adjacent folds; in other words, one tab has its end
overlapped on the adjacent folds, while the other tab has its end overlapped by the
adiacent folds.
Having folded the two blanks precisely the same, one of them is turned end to
end so as to bring its overlapping end opposite the overlapped end of the other
blank, and then the overlapping or hook-like end is inserted against the overlapped
end of the opposite blank, being tucked under the adjacent edges which overlap
said end.
Likewise the opposite ends will be interlocked in the same manner as above
described, and so also will the upper corners of the collar be interlocked or inter-
lapped, the folds thereof, as already described, permitting said interlapping.
Fig. 1 represents one part or ply of a standing collar, and
Fig. 2 another part or ply thereof.
Fig. 3 shows the two ends of said plies nearly put together to illustrate how the
said plies may be interlocked.
Fig. 4 shows the two plies stitched together to form a collar, one corner of the
outer ply being, however, turned over to expose the folds; and
Fig. 5 shows the completed collar.
Fig. 6 is an enlarged plan view showing in detail the respective ends of one
part or side, as shown in Fig. 1, the middle portion thereof being broken away.
Fig. 7 is a similar enlarged view of the opposite side of the collar, as shewn
in Fig. 2.

page_text: Referring to Figs. 1 and 2 a and b may represent pieces of linen to be made into
a collar, these pieces constituting the inner and outer sides of a standing collar,
and with these pieces there may be put one or more intermediate plies for stiffening,
all in the usual manner.
The piece a has its small end a and then the end a¹ infolded, and thereafter
the edges a² and a³ are infolded, and then the end a³, a³, leaving a sort of a hook
at as at one end, while at the opposite end there are corners 2, 2, overlapping an
inturned end a*.
Referring to Fig. 2, representing another ply or side of the collar, the end 61
is first inturned, then the end 62 is inturned, leaving a corner 3 overlapping the
inturned end 61, and thereafter the longer edges and bare inturned, and then the
end 5 and 6, the inturned portion 66 constituting a hook like the inturned
portion, each hook entering its own appropriate space behind or back of the
corners 2 and referred to.
The part Fig. 2 may be turned upwardly over onto the part Fig. 1, and the
hook 66 may be inserted under the corners. 2 and the hook a5 of the part shown in
Fig. 1 under the corners 3, and in this condition the collar will be stitched together
by the line of stitching e, (see Figs. 4 and 5).
Fig. 3 shows the hooked end ready to be put behind the corners 3. and in
putting together the two parts of the collar the inturned longer edge 63 of the
part will be hooked in behind the corner 6 at the top of the edge a¹.
Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, it will be seen that the inturned ends a¹, at, and 2, 65,
are turned in on a curve at 12, and to do this the material has to be stretched at
that point, and it will be also seen that each end of the collar presents three
corners, said corners being marked in Fig. 1 at the right as 13, 14, and 15.
To properly make the last kind of a corner, especially when it presents an acute
angle, the overlapping edges a² and 63 of one of the plies, as at 16 and 17. (see
Figs. 6 and 7), and the overlapping ends b and a, are also provided, as at 18
and 19, with supplemental infolds laid or folded over on top of the other folds.
said infolds being necessary to enable one inturned edge to lie snugly and evenly
on another.
The plies being infolded, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the infolded portions are
laid face to face, and the plies are then stitched together through and through
from one to the other end of the collar, the curved portion 12 of the infolded ends
affording additional strength to the collar at that point, so that said collar is not
apt to be torn off from the button-hole-tab in use.
Heretofore it has been customary to stitch together the plies of the standing
collar when the same are superimposed one on the other and then to turn the
stitched portions inside out, and to provide for this it has been necessary to notch
or cut away a portion of the collar at the junction of the tab with the corner end,
thus leaving a weakened portion which is liable to be easily torn.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. A standing collar, composed of plies forming the opposite sides of the collar,
each side having at one end an inturned hook or overlapping end, and having its
opposite end underlapped by the adjacent folds at the corners which are overlapped
on said end, the plies of said opposite sides of the collar being interlocked by the
insertion of the said hook of one against the underlanned end of the other under
the said overlapped folds at said corners, both ends of the collar being interlocked,
the side having the hook locked into the opposite side at one end receiving the hook
from the said opposite side at the other end, and said plies so folded and interlocked
being stitched together through and through, substantially as described.
2. A standing collar, composed of plies forming the opposite sides of the collar,
each side having its top edge inturned, and an inturned end overlapped by said
top-edge fold at one end, and an inturned end overlapping said top edge fold at
the other end, the plies of said opposite sides of the collar being placed and secured

page_text: together with an overlapping end of the inner side against the overlapped end of
the outer side, and the overlapped end of the inner side against the overlapping
end of the outer side, substantially as described.
3. A standing collar, composed of inner and outer plies, each similarly folded,
the inturned end at one end of a ply overlapping the top-edge fold and at the other
end of said ply being overlapped by said edge fold, the said inturned ends having
their folds extending down even and unbroken from the top edge to the tabs of
the collar, and the said similarly-folded outer and inner plies being placed together
face to face with an underlapped end of the inner ply flatwise against an overlapped
end of the outer ply at one end, and at the other end an overlapped end of the
inner ply flatwise against an underlapped end of the outer ply, said plies being
stitched together through and through, substantially as described.
4. A standing collar composed of inner and outer plies of material, having all
of its edges inturned, each of said plies having at its opposite upper corners a sup-
plementary inner fold laid or folded over on top of the other inturned folds, to this
enable an acute-angled corner to be presented, substantially as described.
5. A collar constructed substantially as herein shown and described.
TLL L
0
*1 1000
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London,
Agents for the Applicant.