IMPROVEMENTS IN THE WEAVING OR MANUFACTURE OF KIDDERMINSTER, SCOTCH, OR INGRAIN CARPETS, AND OTHER SIMILAR TWO OR THREE PLY FABRICS."
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Stewart Smith and Samuel Smith, both of Glasgow,
in the County of Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturers, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE WEAVING OR MANUFACTURE OF KIDDERMINSTER,
SCOTCH, OR INGRAIN CARPETS, AND OTHER SIMILAR TWO OR THREE PLY
FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Stewart Smith and
Samuel Smith at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the
9th November 1881.
JOHN STEWART SMITH and SAMUEL SMITH, both of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturers. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE WEAVING OR
MANUFACTURE OF KIDDERMINSTER, SCOTCH, OR INGRAIN CARPETS; AND OTHER
SIMILAR TWO OR THREE PLY FABRICS."
This Invention relates to improvements in the weaving or manufacture of
Kidderminster, Scotch, or ingrain carpets, and other similar two or three-ply fabrics,
as, for example, what are technically named " shotabouts," that is, carpets or
fabrics which are woven with alternate threads of different colours for the warp
and weft; and the main object of the Invention is to produce carpets or fabrics
having more clearly defined patterns both on the upper and under side, while also
obviating what is known as "gazing" or showing of threads of one ply through
the other where the plies are mixed, and equalizing the strain on the warp threads
throughout, and making the cloth more easily wefted.
In the ordinary weaving of two and three-ply carpets and fabrics, a definite
pattern or figure is produced on the upper or outer side of the top ply by the
action of the jacquard mechanism and barness on the warp threads. But by reason
of the warp threads of the different plies always being raised in the same order
and relation to each other, all the alternate or odd threads of warp being up at the
same time, while all the alternate or even threads all down, or vice versa, when the
weft thread of that ply is being thrown. This being the case in all instances where
more than one eye is used in the needle of the jacquard machine, and by the system

page_text: of cutting cards hitherto adopted, the same result has always followed, whether
with one or more eyes in the jacquard needle, each ply of cloth in all cases being
always worked with the same warp threads throughout, working the right side of
cach ply or plies always uppermost, and showing the wrong side of whatever ply
goes under to the back or outside of the cloth, the "shotabout" weft threads having
different warp threads over them on the under or outside of the cloth.
In this mode of weaving also the warp when carried from one ply to another
passes at times direct from the lower to the upper surface of the combined plies,
and at times lies loose between the plies, making where the plies are mixed only
single cloth, rendering the strain on the threads very unequal and preventing
equal beating up of the weft.
According to our Invention the fabric is woven so as to reverse the back ply
and bring the respective warp threads over the weft threads of corresponding
colour, thereby securing a well defined pattern on the under or outer side, free from
'gazing" on either side, while by causing the warp threads to pass only from one
side of either ply to the other at a time no unequal strain is produced, making the
fabric really double, and only woven together where the warps cross or change
from one ply to the other at the outline of the pattern. For the purpose of
enabling carpets or other fabrics to be woven in this manner we employ a jacquard
needle, with a single eye for each warp thread of the pattern or repeat of the
pattern, and we cut the cards which act on the needles, as will be hereinafter
described, so that the defined pattern of the under ply may be produced on the
outside, and the same coloured warp made to cross the same coloured weft threads
on the outer sides of the fabric.
We also introduce a third weft thread in the case of two ply, or a fourth weft
thread in the case of three ply carpets, to appear on the front or on the back of
the carpet,-as-desired-on-the-pattern, on any cord of the design, the extra weft or
warp threads passing between the plies of cloth when not wanted to appear on the
front or back of the cloth. This is effected with or without the extra warp for
the additional or extra weft, and applies either to "shotabout," self-coloured, pillared,
or shaded coloured carpets. These two processes are wrought with one eye in the
needle of the jacquard machine, and the cards are cut in such a way as to work
the cloth without either heddles, journals, or double necked harnesses.
In weaving either of these processes we use only one eye in the needle of the
jacquard machine, through which passes one tail or harness thread when knotted
tails and comberboards are used, or one wire when hooked wires and branches are
used. One needle may be employed for every harness thread in the pattern,
which may be any size desired; or when small patterns are used as many harness
threads as there are repents of the pattern may be tied to each knotted tail or
hooked wire of the jacquard machine. If it is desired to cut the cards for a four
shuttle "shotabout" which may be any four colours, as, for example, with olive
and white for one ply, and red and black for the other, the olive and white being
the ground, and the red and black being the figure; and taking the olive and red
for the odd threads of the warp, and the white and black for the even threads of
their respective plies of cloth, the two separate plies being on different parts of the
jacquard machine and on the corresponding parts of the loom card. For the olive
shuttle we then cut the card to raise all the olive threads that are to appear on the
top (which in this case will be the odd threads of the one ply and the odd cords
of the design), so that they will be over the olive weft thread on the front and
allow them to remain down where the olive is to appear on the back, and so that
they will be under the olive weft thread on the under or outer side. When the
olive is to appear on the back we also raise the white or even warp threads; then
on the other part of the card we cut all the red and black warp threads on the
same weft cord of the design when they are to appear on the front, and allow all
the rest of the red and black to remain down when they are to appear on the back
or under side. For the red shuttle, which will be the odd warp threads or cords
of the design for the other ply, we cut the card so as to raise all the red warp

page_text: threads that are to appear on the top so that they will be over the red weft thread
on the front and allow them to remain down when the red is to appear on the
back so that they will be under the red weft thread on the under or outer side,
and when the red is to appear on the back we also cut the black or even warp
threads. Then on the other part of the card we cut all the olive and white warp
threads on the same cord of the design.
When they are to appear on the front and allow all the rest of the olive and
white to remain down when they are to appear on the back or under side. For the
other two shuttles, namely, white and black, we proceed in a similar way, only
operating on the even and odd warp threads or cords of the design in reverse
order.
Then for a two or self coloured carpet the cards are cut in the same way, say, for
instance, black and scarlet; the black being the ground would correspond to the
olive and white, and the scarlet being the figure would correspond to the
red and black, so that for the alternate weft cords of each colour the odd and even
warp cords would be operated upon.
When the extra colour is desired it may be put in with "shotabouts" or with
solid or self coloured warps, whatever warp colour of the web is chosen to work
with the extra weft colour then the warp of that colour or ply is cut to riso
above the weft thread of same colour or ply, when the extra colour is to appear on
the top and allowed to remain under the wefts of both plies when the extra
colour is to appear on the under or outer side.
Then when the extra colour weft thread is put in the card is cut to raise all the
warp threads that formed cloth last on the top, and all the warp threads are
allowed to remain down that formed cloth last on the under side, the extra weft
colour passing between and forming cloth on the top only with the warp that was
held above both plies of weft, and forming cloth on the back only with the warps
that were left under both plies of weft.
These descriptions of cutting the cards also apply to three-ply cloth, only moro
extended.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Stewart Smith and Samuel Smith in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 8th May 1882
JOHN STEWART SMITH and SAMUEL SMITH, both of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturers. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE WEAVING OR
MANUFACTURE OF KIDDERMINSTER, SCOTCH, OR INGRAIN CARPETS, AND OTHER
SIMILAR TWO OR THREE-PLY FABRICS."
Our said Invention relates to improvements in the weaving or manufacture of
Kidderminster, Scotch, or ingrain carpets, and other similar two or three-ply
shotabouts," that is, carpets
fabrics, as, for example, what are technically named "
or fabrics which are woven with alternate threads of different colours for the warp
and weft of one or more plies; and the main object of the Invention is to produce
carpets or fabrics having more clearly defined patterns and distinct colours both on
the upper and under side of the cloth. By means of our Invention we obviate
what is known as gazing or showing of threads of one ply through the other on
both sides where the plies are mixed or wrought thread about, thereby also making
the cloth even and uniformly two or three ply throughout. We also cause the
warp threads to be under or outside of the weft threads of the same colour on the
back or under side of the fabric, and so improve the pattern on that side of the
cloth that it will be as correct as the upper or right side. The strain on the warp
is also equalised and the cloth is more easily wefted.
In the ordinary weaving of two or three-ply carpets and fabrics; a definite
pattern or figure is produced on the top or upper side of the top ply by the action
of the jacquard mechanism and harness on the warp threads; the warp threads
of the different plies always being raised in the same order and relation to each
other, all the alternate or odd threads of warp being up at the same time, while all
the alternate or even threads are down, or vice versa, when the weft thread of that
ply is being thrown. This is the case in all instances where more than one eye is
used in the needle of the jacquard machine, and by the system of cutting the loom
cards hitherto adopted the same result has always followed, whether with one or
more eyes in the jacquard needle. Each ply of cloth is thus always worked with
the same warp threads throughout, the right side of each ply or plies being always
uppermost, and the wrong side of whatever ply goes under being shown to the
back or outside of the cloth. The shotabout weft threads have thus different warp
threads over them on the under or outside of the cloth, and the pattern is rendered
imperfect on that side.
In this mode of weaving also when the different plies mix or work shot and shot
in the pattern, the warp then at all times in the mixed parts of the pattern passes
direct from the upper to the lower surface of the cloth (and vice versa), and the
other portion of the warp at the same parts of the pattern lie straight and loose
in the centre, making wherever the plies are mixed only single cloth, rendering
the strain on the warp threads very unequal, and preventing equal beating up of
the weft.
According to our Invention the fabric is woven so as to reverse the back ply
and bring the respective warp threads over the weft threads of corresponding
colour, thereby securing a well defined and distinct coloured pattern on the under
or outer side of the cloth free from gazing on either side; while by causing the
warp threads to pass only from the centre to the outside of either ply at a time
(or vice versa) no unequal strain is produced, making the fabric really double and
bound together where the warps cross from one ply to the other at the outlines of
the pattern. By only using one eye in the jacquard needle, and having one needle

page_text: for each warp thread of the pattern, and by the system of cutting the cards
hereinafter described, each warp thread can be raised or left down as desired. In
a two-ply carpet with four shuttles working shotabout, or with one ply a solid
colour and the other shotabout, four distinct colours can be got, and with a three
ply nine can be got. By our method of working, each of these combinations of
colour form as distinct a ply of cloth as the other, and correct as regards the warp
threads being over or outside of the weft threads of the same colour on both sides
of the cloth. We also introduce a third weft thread in the case of two-ply,
and a fourth weft thread in the case of three-ply carpets to appear on the front or
back of the carpet as desired on the pattern on any cord or weft line of the design';
the extra weft or warp threads passing between the plies of cloth when not wanted
to appear on the front or back of the cloth. This is effected with or without the
extra warp for the additional or extra weft, and applies either to shotabout, self-
coloured, pillared, or shaded coloured carpets. These two processes are wrought
with one eye in the needle of the jacquard machine, and the cards are cut in such a
way as to work the cloth without either heddles, journals, or double-necked harness.
In weaving by either of these processes we use only one eye in the needle of
the jacquard machine, through which passes one tail or harness thread when
knotted tails are used, or one wire when hooked wires and branders are used.
One needle may be employed for every harness thread in the pattern, which may be
any size desired, or when small patterns are used as many harness threads as there
are repeats of the pattern inay be tied to each knotted tail or wire of the jacquard
machine. If it is desired to cut the cards for a four shuttle "shotabout " two ply
carpet, which may be any four colours, as for example, with olive and white for
one ply, and red and black for the other, the olive and white being the ground,
and the red and black being the figure, the ground being on the back half and tho
figure on the front half of the harness; taking the olive and red for the odd
threads of the warp, and the white and black for the even threads of their
respective plies of cloth, and taking the four top rows of the jacquard needles for
the figure, and the four bottom rows for the ground, and on the loom card cutting
the figure with the left hand and the ground with the right, reading from the left
of the card, the first and third rows will represent the red; the second and fourth
the black; the fifth and seventh the olive; and the sixth and eighth the white.
For the olive shuttle we then cut the fifth and seventh rows of the card to raise
all the olive threads that are to appear on the top (which in this case will be the
odd threads of the ground or back ply in the harness and the odd cords or warp
lines of the design) so that they will be over the olive weft thread on the front;
and we allow them to remain down where the olive is to appear on the back so
that they will be under the olive weft thread on the under or outer side. Where
the olive is to appear on the back we also cut the sixth and eighth rows of the
card to raise the white or even warp threads so that they are over the olive weft
in the centre and in position for going under the white weft thread on the back
at the next shot, or over the white on the top as required in the pattern. Then
on the other part of the card, the first, second, third, and fourth rows are cut for
all the red and black warp threads on the same weft line of the design where
they are to appear on the front, and left uncut to allow all the rest of the red
and black to remain down when they are to appear on the back or under side of
the cloth.
In order that our said Invention and the manner of performing the same may
be properly understood, we have bereunto appended a Sheet of diagrams to explain
our method of weaving and of cutting the cards for weaving carpets and other
two or three ply fabrics.
Figure 1 of these diagrams is a pattern or design as drawn on pattern paper in
the usual way for the card cutter; Figure 2 is a longitudinal section of a piece of
two-ply carpet of the pattern shown in Figure 1, and as woven in the ordinary
way; Figure 2a shows the upper side of the piece of carpet; and Figure 2b shows
the b..ck or under side; Figure 3 is a longitudinal section of a piece of two-ply

page_text: 2.
carpet of the same pattern as Figure 2, but as woven in accordance with our
improvements; Figure 3a shows the front side of the fabric; and Figure 3b, the
back or under side. The pattern in Figures 2a and 3a is very slightly altered
from the design, Figure 1, for convenience of showing the warp threads in the
sections, Figures 2 and 3; Figure 4 is a longitudinal section of a two-ply self-
coloured carpet, with third colour introduced; Figures 4a and 4b show the
front and under sides respectively; Figure 5 shows parts of loom cards marked
olive A, red A, whito A, and black A; and Figure shows four diagrams of
guides or "guide sticks" which we use in cutting the cards, these guides being
marked olive B, red B, white B, and black B, to correspond to the cards. In
these Figures the warp threads in the like parts of the pattern are indicated by
the numerals 1 to 16, and the weft threads by the letters a to q. The longitudinal
sections, Figures 2 and 3, are taken at the warp threads marked 9 and 10 of the
pattern. In Figures 4, 4a, and 4b, seventeen warp threads are indicated, and the
section Figure 4 is taken at the threads marked 7 and 8. The cards in Figure 5
show the cutting for the two weft cords or lines i, j, of the design, Figures 1 to 3.
The colours of the warp and weft threads are indicated by using strong lines for
black, strong dotted lines for red, thin full lines for olive, and sinall dotted lines
for the white. In the pattern of the carpet shown in the diagrams, black squares
are used to correspond to the black threads, red is indicted by strong dotted lines,
olive by thin full lines, and white by thin dotted lines. To cut the card for the
olive or first shuttle the diagram olive B, Figure 6, is used as a guide or guide
stick, and operating with the right hand on the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth
rows of the card; wherever the red and olive on the guide stick match the red or
olive on the 'design, holes are cut in the cards. Where the olive of the pattern
matches the olive of the guide stick holes are cut, so that the olive threads are
raised by the jacquard harness in weaving, the white remaining down; and where
the red of the pattern matches the red, the white threads are raised, the olive
remaining down. At the same time, with the left hand on the first, second, third,
and fourth rows of the card, holes are cut for all the red that appears on the same
weft cord of the design. In Figure 5 the olive A shows the card cutting for the
four designs 1, 2, 3, 4, of the pattern, and the weft line marked in Figure 3.
For the red shuttle also on the weft line of the design marked i, the diagram
marked red B, in Figure 6, is used, operating with the left hand on the first,
second, third, and fourth rows of the card. Wherever the red and olive on the
guide stick red B correspond with the red and olive on the design holes are cut,
so that where the red of the pattern matches the red of the guide stick, the red
threads are raised in weaving and the black remain down; and where the olive
matches the olive the black threads are raised, and the red remain down. On the
right hand of the card, on the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth rows of the card,
holes are cut for all the olive that appears on the same weft line or cord of the
design. In Figure 5, red A shows the card cutting for the four designs 1, 2, 3, 4,
of the pattern, and the weft line marked i in Figure 3. Then for the weft cord or
line marked using the diagram white B, in Figure 6, and as in the case of the
olive shuttle cutting on the right hand side, where the white and black correspond
with the design, and on the left hand side cutting all the black, we get the card
cutting as indicated at white A, in Figure 5, for the first four designs of the
pattern 1, 2, 3, 4, in Figure 3. Then for the fourth or black shuttle also on the
weft line of the pattern marked j cutting on the left hand side, where the diagram
black B in Figure 6 corresponds with the design, and on the right hand side
cutting all the white on the weft line we get the card cutting as shown at black
A in Figure 5.
Instead of the method herein before described of arranging the plies on the top
and bottom of the needles and back and front of the jacquard machine and harness,
the different plies can be arranged in various other ways, as, for example, either
row-about of the needles lengthwise or in divisions transversely across the jacquard
machine, the cards being cut to correspond in each case.

page_text: For a two or self-coloured carpet the cards are cut in the same way, say, for
instance, black and scarlet; the black being the ground would correspond to the
olive and white, and the scarlet being the figure would correspond to the red and
black, so that for the alternate weft cords or lines the odd and even warp threads
would be operated upon in the manner already described.
When an extra colour is desired to be put in, whether with shotabouts or with
solid or self-coloured warps, the card cutting is the same unless on the weft lines
of the design, where the extra colour is used without any extra warp for it.
Whatever warp colour of the web is chosen to work with the extra weft colour,
then the cards are cut so that the warp of that colour or ply is made to rise above
the weft thread of the same colour or ply where the extra colour is to appear on
the top, and left uncut to allow the warp to remain down, under, or between the
wefts of both plies where the extra colour is to appear on the back or outer side of
the carpet. Then when the extra colour weft thread is put in the card is cut to
raise all the warp threads that forined cloth last on the top, and all the warp
threads are allowed to remain down that formed cloth last on the under side, the
extra weft thread passing between the two plies and forming cloth on the top only
with the warp threads that were held above both plies of weft and forming cloth
on the back only with the warp threads that were left under both plies of weft.
Figures 4 and 46 show a small portion of a design showing the front and back
with the extra colour introduced, black being the ground, olive the figure, and red
the extra colour. Figure 4 is a section of the cloth showing the intersections of
the warp threads and the ends of the weft threads showing where the extra weft
threads pass into the centre in the weaving.
The system described of cutting the cards also applies to three ply cloth, the
principle and method being the same, only more extended, as will be readily
understood by any one conversant with the weaving of such fabrics.
Figures 2 and 3 show the difference in the weaving of the fabric by the old and
the improved method. By the old method a true pattern is formed on the one side
of the fabric, as shown in Figure 2a, but on the other side warp threads of one
colour cross weft threads of different colour and produce a malformation of the
pattern, as is indicated by Figure 2b. This diagram, Figure 2b, does not show
the full extent to which the pattern is spoiled, the effect of "gazing" not being
readily represented. Figure 26 shows the back of the cloth as woven by our
improved method with a definite and clear pattern. The cross section, Figure 2,
also shows that by the old system of weaving two ply fabrics the weft threads, as
9 and 10, at times pass entirely across both plies and at other times are carried
between the plies, while by our improved system, as shown in Figure 3, the warp
never crosses at once from one side to the other but first goes to the centre between
the plies, and then froin the centre it passes to the opposite side and round or over
the warp of corresponding colour. By our improved system of weaving two
distinct plies of cloth are formed and joined together at the intersections of the
different parts of the pattern. While, by the method shown in Figure 2, where the
warp passes direct from one side to the other the tension of the warp draws together
the weft which should form the two plies and forms in reality a single ply
cloth in which the weft threads of one ply grin or gaze through the weft threads
of the other.
Having thus described our said Invention, and the manner of performing the
same, we have to state that what we claim as the Invention secured to us by the
hereinbefore in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First. The weaving or manufacture of Kidderminster, Scotch, or ingrain carpets,
and other similar two or three-ply fabrics with clearly defined patterns, on the
two outer sides of the fabric, substantially as or in the manner herein set forth.
Second. In weaving two or three-ply carpets or fabrics, the cutting of the cards
substantially in the manner herein described to raise the warp threads of different
plies in such order as (1) to cause them to combine with the weft to form distinct
and uniform plies of cloth, (2) to make them pass only from either side of a ply to

page_text: the centre, or vice versa, at a time for the purpose of equalizing the strain, on tlie
warp and avoiding "gazing," (3) to cause the warp threads of any colour to cross
weft threads only of the same colour and form distinct and clearly defined patterns
on each outer side of the fabric.
Third. In weaving two or three-ply carpets or fabrics, the introducing, substan-
tially in the manner herein described, of additional coloured weft threads, and by
the cutting of the cards causing these threads to appear and form a true pattern
on the upper or under surface, and to pass between the plies when not required by
the pattern to prevent the formation of stripes in the fabric..
In witness whereof, we, the said John Stewart Smith and the said Samuel
Smith, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Fifth day of May, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty two.
Witness,
WALLACE FAIRWEATHER, C.E.,
of W. R. M. Thomson & Co.,
Patent Agents,
Glasgow.
SAM SMITH.
(L.S.)
: