Improvements in the Manufacture of Fur and Wool Hats.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 26th July, 1897
Complete Specification Left, 15th Sept., 1897-Accepted, 26th July, 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fur and Wool Hats.
We, WILLIAM DOUGLAS ZERFFI, of Portwood Hat Works, Carrington Road,
Hat Manufacturer, and FREDERIC GEORGE RIEDEL, of Elm Bank, Brinnington,
Dyer, both of Stockport, in the County of Chester, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
The invention relates to the manufacture of ladies' and gentlemen's fur or wool
hats with a view to producing different colors on different parts thereof. Thus
for a gentleman's hat we propose to make the inside of a different color from the
outside, whereby we obviate the necessity for a lining and thereby make the hat
both lighter in weight and more attractive in appearance than the ordinary unlined
hat.
For ladies' hats we propose to produce a combination of colors, say for instance,
the crown of one shade or color and the brim of another, or the crown and top
side of brim of one shade or color and the underside of brim of another.
We obtain these results in the following manner. After the hats are proofed,
we treat those parts upon which different shades or colors are required with a
solution of bichromate of potash and then dye in one bath composed of two different
combinations of coloring matters, the one of which will only dye the parts treated
with the chrome solution, whilst the other will dye the parts not so treated.
T T1 Oct 10077
HARRIS & MILLS,
23, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fur and Wool Hats.
We, WILLIAM DOUGLAS ZERFFI, of Portwood Hat Works, Carrington Road,
Hat Manufacturer, and FREDERICK GEORGE RIEDEL, of Elm Bank, Brinnington,
Dyer, both of Stockport, in the County of Chester, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particu-
larly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The invention relates to the manufacture of gentlemen's fur or wool
hats with a view to producing different colors on different parts thereof.
Thus we propose to make the inside of a different color from the
outside, whereby we obviate the necessity for a lining and thereby make the hat
lighter in weight than a lined hat and more attractive in appearance than the
ordinary unlined hat.
We obtain these results in the following manner the details of which may how-
ever be varied according to the effect desired to be produced.
One method of carrying our invention into effect is as follows:-After the hats
are proofed," we treat those parts upon which different shades or colors are
"
CD
077

page_text: required with a mordant consisting of the following materials or their equivalents
in about the proportions stated:-
10 ozs. bichromate of potash
5 lbs. wheat starch;
60 pints water.
These ingredients are brought to a boil under continual stirring and then
allowed to cool. The parts of the proofed hat bodies required to be of a dark
color are brushed with the mordant solution; then steamed under slight pressure
for about 1 to 2 hours, well washed out and then dyed. The dye bath is com-
posed of alizarines or wood dyes so chosen that they only touch the mordanted parts
of the hat bodies, and of light shades of aniline dyes which touch the not mordanted
parts. In this manner the hat bodies come out of the dye bath two distinct colors.
Or in order to obtain a light colored inside to a black felt hat, we take the
"proofed" hat bodies that have already been dyed black with any of the ordinary
aniline blacks, or that have been dyed with log wood in the ordinary way, the
choice of dye method depending upon the character of light shade required, and
treat the part required to be of a lighter shade than the others in the following
manner: --
We make a caustic solution composed of the following chemicals or their
equivalents in about the proportions stated:-
4 parts of tin salt,
1/2 part acetic acid 25% to 30%
part acetate of soda crystals,
To the above we add 3 parts of a solution composed of
1/2 lb. acetic acid
6 lbs. water
22 lbs. wheat starch.
The whole of the above are well mixed together and form a paste with which
the parts of the hat which are required to be of a lighter shade than the others
are brushed over; after this the hat bodies are subjected to steam' in a steaming
chest for a period of about 25 to 30 minutes; they are then washed out in hot
water and then rinsed in cold water. The parts of the hat bodies that have
been so treated are now of a clear light shade, whilst the other parts retain their
original color, and the hat bodies thus treated are now ready for blocking and
finishing in the ordinary way.
In order to produce a variety of shades in the inside of hats, we add to the first
dye bath dye stuffs (such as alizarines, &c.) which are not affected to the same
same extent by the caustic solution.
We would here remark that we do not confine ourselves to the precise details
herein given for imparting two 'different colors or shades to hat bodies by the
process of dyeing, as such may be varied without departing from the peculiar
character of our invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is-
The improvements in the manufacture of fur and wool hats by giving different
colors or shades to different parts thereof by the means substantially as herein set
forth and for the purpose stated.
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