Improvements in the Mode and Means for Setting out Dresses, Jackets, and the like.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 19th May, 1898-Accepted, 20th Aug.,
1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Mode and Means for Setting out Dresses,
Jackets, and the like.
I, EDMUND GEORGE KENDALL, of 53, High Street, Harborne, in the County of.
Stafford, Architect, do hereby declare the nature of my said invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:--
My invention has for its object improvements in the mode and means for
setting out dresses jackets and the like, by which great accuracy of fit is obtained
with a minimum amount of trouble to the cutter and by which means a novice
may be readily taught to become competent without much practice.
In order that my invention may be clearly understood and more easily carried
into practical effect I have appended hereunto four double sized sheets of drawings
upon which I have illustrated examples of the mode I pursue in cutting out
dress patterns.
Figure 1 is a plan view of the scale or chart X of instructions for cutting out
a sleeve and collar.
Figure 2 is a plan view of the scale or chart Y of instructions for cutting out
a dress and bodice or the like,
Figure 2 is a broken off view shewing the reverse side of the lower end of the
chart Y with the front length proportion scale.
Figure 3 is a diagram view of the sleeve pattern.
Figures 4 and 5 are diagram views of the bodice or the like patterns.
66
"
In carrying my invention into practice I form my charts or scales X and Y
from card board or other suitable material. The chart or scale X is used for
forming the sleeve and collar of a dress. The curved scale marked G-R ou
Figure 1 is formed for cutting out the upper portion of the sleeve which is fitted
to the bodice jacket or the like and the scale called the arms eye
measures" the curves of which radiate from the point marked G are used for
forming the under portion of the sleeve. The curve For the top portion of the
chart or scale from H to Z is for the purpose of forming the part of the sleeve
from the shoulder to the elbow and the portion from Z to M that part of the sleeve
from the elbow to the wrist. The under curve "from G to W is for forming.
the portion of the sleeve which fits around the under side of the arm or where the
seam appears. The scale from W to V is provided for determining the width of
the wrist band which must of course be sufficiently large to allow the sleeve to
pass over the knuckles. The scale marked B is provided for determining the width
of the sleeve round the thick portion of the arm and the scale marked C for
determining the width of the sleeve round the thick portion of the elbow. It will
thus be seen that all the various measurements required for cutting out the pattern
of a sleeve are provided upon the chart or scale X. There is also given upon this
same chart or scale the various measurements and curves required for cutting out the
pattern of a child's sleeve-for instance. The curve from I to L is for the same
purpose as the curve from G to R and the "
arms eye measures " the curves of which

page_text: "
radiate from the point I are for the same purpose as those which radiate from the
point G. The portion shewn in dotted lines from L to U is for forming the same
portion of the pattern as that part of the chart or scale from H to M and the
scale marked U V determines the width of the wrist band of the child's sleeve.
The scales 1) and E are also provided for determining the width of the same
portion of the sleeve as the scales B and C. The portion from I to V of the under
curve is used for the same purpose as from G to W. The curve lines on the same
chart or scale X from J to 0, 0 to K and from L to N and N to M¹ are provided
for the purpose of forming the pattern of the collar and the intersecting lines are
provided for forming collar patterns of various widths and lengths. The under
The scale Z
curve of the collar is obtained by the lower edge of the chart.
Figure 2 gives an example of the leading measurements required to commence
with.
For example to cut the pattern for a sleeve as shewn at Figure 3 lay the chart
upon the paper draw the pencil from G to W, W to V, and from G, to R then dot
through the scale the size required for the arms eye measure and number g₁ also
dot through scale B the number required for the thick part of the arm and
number it 6 in the same manner dot through scale C for measure required for
the thick part of the elbow and number it C. On scale WV dot the number of
the size required for the wrist band and mark it W¹, then place H on chart at R
and M at V draw line from H to M. Now draw lines from g¹ to b¹ from 6' to C¹
and from C¹ to W. With the curved end of the chart from G to R draw a line
from G to g¹ thus finishing the pattern for the sleeve.
The chart or scale Y is used for forming the pattern of the bodice or jacket or
the like. The scale on the chart at the left hand side from A to B is provided
for obtaining the shoulder measurements and the curved scale from B to K for
obtaining the front proportions of the neck. The curved portion of the chart
and the back
from 1 to E is provided for obtaining the front arms eye curve
"
arms eye curve "of the bodice pattern-that is to say for cutting out that part
of the bodice pattern where the sleeves are attached. This part of the chart that
is from F to E is also used for forming the curves for the hips and darts of the
bodice pattern and is provided with a scale for obtaining various measurements.
The scales formed along the lower or straight edge of the chart from A to G are
provided for various purposes indicated on the drawings. The scale marked H
the curved lines of which radiate from the one point is provided for obtaining
the measurements of the back of the neck and the curved slot marked I is for
obtaining the required curve of the back of the neck. The scales marked J are for
obtaining the measurements of the back of the waist and the scales marked L
and N are for obtaining the proportions of the back and front of the bust. The
division lines marked Ŏ on the chart are provided for obtaining the front propor-
tions of the waist when single side pieces are used and the division lines marked P
for obtaining the front proportions when double side pieces are used. The scale
marked M is provided for obtaining the measurements of the single pieces under
the arms and the scale marked Q for obtaining the measurements when double
pieces are required under the arms. The dividing scales marked R are used is
an easy method for obtaining the exact sizes of the darts. The black portions on
chart indicate slots formed in the chart to enable the required measurements
on the various scales to be marked through onto the pattern.
For example to cut the back portion of the pattern for the bodice, jacket or
the like as shewn at Figure 4 place the edge of the chart Y even with the edge
of the paper.
Make a dot through each hole marked A¹ from these dots draw
a straight line with edge of scale and number the line 1. Before moving the scale
Dot at back shoulder arrow S¹ and number it 3.
form a dot at S and number it 2.
Select the back length measure (required) from the scale of inches as seen on
the lower edge of chart and make a dot at this point on line 1 and number it 4.
Place length of under arm measure (required) at dot 4 make a dot at $ number it
5. Fix point S at 2 dot through scale H the back neck measure and number it G.

page_text: Place back neck curve I at dot 2 and draw a curve from 2 to 6. Fix G (corner)
of chart at dot 3 keeping short end exactly even with line 1 draw a line across the
paper number it 7. Place arrow Dat dot 5 keeping short end even with the line 1
make a dot at bust number (required) as shewn on back bust scale L number the
dot 8. Place arrow C at dot 4 keeping short end of chart even with line 1. Make
a dot through hole marked F¹ also at each number corresponding with waist size
of scales J and number the dots 9, 10, 11, 12. Draw a line from 9 to 10 and from
11 to 12. Place A at dot 6. The figure 7 of shoulder scale touching line 7.
Draw a line from A half an inch longer than the given length of shoulder measure.
Make a dot number it 13. Before moving the chart, make a dot in the centre of
line between A and dot 13 and number it 14. Place figure 3 of shoulder scale at
dot 13 and make a dot at A number it 15. Place point F at dot 15. The curve
touching Figure 8. Draw a line up from 8 about half way between 8 and 15.
Make a dot number it 16. Place A end of shoulder scale at 16 dot, keeping the
edge of chart at an equal distance from bust line. Draw a line to Figure 3 and
make a dot number it 17. Place point Fat dot 13 and draw down by the curve
and dot 17. Draw a line from dot 8 to dot 12. Number it 18. Place corner E
but blank side of chart upwards at dot 11 the curve touching dot 16 then draw
a line from dot to dot. Repeat exactly from dots 10 to 17 number each curve
line 19. Place point S at dot 2 the edge of chart touching dot 9 draw a line from
dot to dot number it 20. Place point S at dot 4 the edge of chart touching line 1
extend line from dot 4 to hip arrow S2 number it 21. Place corner A at dot 21
Keeping short edge of chart even with the line 1. Then draw a line from a
across the paper number it 22. Make a dot outside the line 1 half an inch from 21
number it 23. Place corner A at dot 14 the edge of chart touching dot 10 make
a small line about an inch long by its edge below waist line then move the chart
until corner G touches line 22 make a dot number it 24. Thence from 24 measure
twice the length of back waist line make a dot and number it 25. Place point F
at 25 curved edge of chart touching No. 12 draw a line by curve and number line 26.
Now measure distance between 11 and 12 and measure this on line 22 from dot 24
number it 26 draw lines 27 from 26 to dots 10 and 11. Draw line 28 from 23 to
dot 9 and this portion of the pattern is complete.
To cut the front portion of this pattern as shewn at Figure 5 place the edge of
the chart even with the edge of the paper, upon which the pattern is to be drawn
make a dot through each hole marked A¹ then from these dots draw a straight line
by edge of chart number the line 1. Before moving chart dot at point S number
the dot 2. Dot at front shoulder arrow S³ number it 3. Dot at front neck
measure K and number it 4. Place corner A at dot 2. Draw a line across paper
by short end of chart number the line 5. Place arrow K at dot 4 allowing the neck
size (as shewn on front neck proportions) to touch line 5 make a dot number it 6.
Then draw from K to 6. Place corner A at dot 3 keeping long edge of chart even
with line 1. Draw a line across the paper by short edge of chart number the line 7.
Draw from
Place corner A at dot 6 let Figure 7 on shoulder scale touch line 7.
dot 6 exact length of shoulder measure, make a dot number it 8. Place point S at
dot 3 measure down line 1 half the distance of arms eye measure. Make a dot
number it 9. Place corner G at dot 9 short edge of chart even with line 1 draw
Mark it "bust line." Place
a line across the paper by long edge of chart.
arrow Nat dot 9 keeping short edge of chart even with line 1. Make a dot
through bust scale N at size required number dot 10. Place corner A at dot 9
keep long edge of chart even with line 1. Short edge of chart even with "bust
line" extend line 1 to end of paper. Place point S at dot 9 the long edge of chart
even with the line 1. Make a dot below point S at the under arm measure
number it 11. Place corner A at dot 10 long edge of chart touching dot 9. Draw
a line by short edge to the exact length of under arm measure make a dot number
it 12. Draw a straight line half way across the paper from dot 12 towards dot 11
mark it waist line. Find single waist lines on edge of scale O place the arrow
of line of size required on dot 12 then make dots through the chart where the

page_text: ii
The
lines intersect on that line. Number the dots 13, 14, 15 16. Place the arrow of
the line shewing the number of the waist at dot 10 keeping the short end of the
chart at the under arm line and dot towards you through the second and third
holes, corresponding with the waist number which will appear on the waist line
and mark the dots 17 and 18. Draw a line from 17 to 13 and from 18 to 16.
Measure length of line 18 on back portion of pattern Figure 4 and extend under
arm line from dot 10 to the same length make a dot and number it 19. Turn
chart over then find number of neck measure amongst front length proportions
scale S Figure 2 and place the same at dot 6. At the same time let the long
edge of chart touch line 1 at the measure of front length required make a dot
number it 20. Draw a line from dot 16 to 20 mark it waist line. Place arrow
on scale M at dot 16 next make a dot at waist measure number it 21. Place
arrow R¹ at dot 20. Make a dot at arrow R2 number it 22. It is necessary to
have an inch space exactly in the centre between the dots 21, 22, to find this space
see dividing scale" R marked for the purpose. Find two numbers alike on
(dividing scale) R that will touch dots 21 and 22 (or as near as possible) then dot
at the arrows making the inch space R³ and mark the dots 23 and 24.
remaining spaces between 22, 23, and 24 and 21 are to be taken up in darts.
Make a dot in the centre of each dart space. To ensure accuracy use the arrow
shewn in the centre of inch space R³ putting two numbers alike on each side
and dot at the arrow in the centre. Number the dots 25 and 26. Place long edge
of chart at dot 8 the short edge resting on bust line and make a dot through the
hole on chart and number it 27. Place the portion of the chart called the front
arms eye curve in such a position that the edge of it will touch dots 8, 27, and 18
at one and the same time. Then draw a curve from 8 passing through 27 to 18
where the curve on chart ends, at dot 18 remove the same and place it at dot 17
and continue the curve to dot 19. Dot on line 1 below 9 at 4 inches number it 28.
Also from 18 down the line 2 inches. Number it 29 draw a straight line from 28
to 29 number the line 30. Place long edge of chart at dot 25 the short edge even
with bust line draw a line from line 30 by the edge of chart to the bottom of
paper passing through dot 25. In the same manner draw a line passing through 26.
Number each line 31. Place corner E at 21 and draw by edge of curve to top of
line 31. Turn over chart and put corner at 24 and draw to the top of 31 as before.
Deal with the corresponding line 31 in the same manner. Number the four
curves 32. Measure from dot 20 on line 1 seven inches. Also the same down
lines 31 from dots 25 and 26. Let the long edge of chart touch dots 18 and 15.
Draw a straight line 7 inches long below dot 15 number it 33. In the same manner
from 17 to 14 number 33. Ditto, from 19 passing through 12 number the dot 33.
Draw straight lines from dots 22 and 23 to dot 31 deal with the other dart in the
same manner. Measure from within the two dots 33 an inch on each side of 33.
Make a dot number each dot 34 place corner E at dot 34 the curve touching dot 16
draw a curve line. Reverse the chart and repeat from second dot 34 to dot 13.
Measure the distance between 24 and 26, on back portion of pattern
Figure 4 measure the same from dot 33 and make a dot number it 35. Place
corner U at 35 and bring the curve to touch dot 12 and draw a line by edge of
curve and the other portion of the pattern is now complete.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:-
CLAIMS.
First The improvements in the mode and means for setting out dresses jackets
and the like ready for cutting consisting essentially of the two charts X and Y
cut or made to the configuration and angles shewn on the drawings in combination
upon their surfaces of the various lines diagrams angles and scales by which the
pattern of a dress or the like may be set out from leading measurements in the

page_text: manner and for the purpose substantially as herein set forth and as shewn upon
the accompanying sheets of drawings.
Second The diagram boards X and Y of external configuration such as shewn
upon the drawings the same carrying the scales for the particular purpose herein
set forth.
Third: The new system of setting out dresses and other articles of wearing
apparel consisting of such like templates as X, Y and as set forth.
Dated this 18th day of May 1898
EDMUND GEORGE KENDALL,
By George Barker,
Fellow of the Chartered Institute of Patent Agents,
Agent for Applicant,
77, Colmore Row, Birmingham.