CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MOHAIR VELVET OR MOHAIR PLUSH
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Adolphus Oppenheimer, of Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MOHAIR VELVET OR MOHAIR PLUSH."
Sealed the 17th August 1854, and dated the 23rd February 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Adolphus Oppenheimer
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 23rd February 1854.
I, ADOLPHUS OPPENHEIMER, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Manu-
facturer, lo hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MOHAIR VELVET OR MOHAIR PLUSH" to be
as follows:
My Invention applies to an article called usually velours d'Utrecht, or
mohair velvet or mohair plush, and consists in manufacturing velvet with a
mohair pile woven as weft, and in such a manner that I am enabled to cut the
pile the length way of the piece when woven, in contradistinction to the ordinary
way of manufacturing mohair velvets, the pile of which has hitherto been
woven as warp over wires, to form the loop or terry, and afterwards cut in the
loom the cross way of the piece. This new method of manufacturing mohair
velvet is very similar to that employed at present in weaving cotton velvets, only
with this difference, that in weaving this mohair velvet, two or more shuttles
are employed, namely, one or more containing the bobbin with the binding
threads, which may be of cotton, linen, wool, or any other textile material, and

page_text: the other or others containing the bobbin with mohair alone, which afterwards,
when cut, will constitute the pile. The manner of disposing or arranging the
threads is similar to that which has hitherto been adopted in weaving ordinary
cotton velvets, velveteens, cords, &c., and it is immaterial whether the mohair
is also used as the binding thread, and woven with a single shuttle, if preferred,
or otherwise, or whether the cloth or ground is woven as usual or diagonally;
when the velvet is woven it may be stiffened, suitably cut, dressed, dyed, if
required, and finished by ordinary process.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Adolphus Oppenheimer in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 23rd August 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ADOLPHUS
OPPENHEIMER, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Adolphus Oppenheimer, Her especial licence that I, the said Adolphus
Oppenheimer, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Adolphus Oppenheimer, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 'MOHAIR VELVET OR MOHAIR PLUSH,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Adolphus Oppenheimer, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
6
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Adolphus Oppenheimer, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement (that is to say):-

page_text: My Invention applies to an article called usually velours d'Utrecht, or "mohair
velvet" or "mohair plush," and consists in manufacturing velvets with a mohair
pile woven as weft, and in such a manner that I am enabled to cut the pilo
the length way of the piece when woven, in contradistinction to the ordinary
way of manufacturing mohair velvets, the pile of which has hitherto been woven
as warp over wires to form the loop or terry, and afterwards cut in the loom
the cross way of the piece of goods. This new method of manufacturing mohair
velvet is very similar to that employed at present in weaving cotton velvets, only
with this difference, that in weaving this mohair velvet, two or more shuttles
are employed for putting in the weft threads, namely, one or more containing
the bobbin with the binding threads, which may consist of cotton, linen, wool, or
any other textile material, and the other or others containing the bobbin with
the mohair alone, which afterwards, when cut, will constitute the pile. The
manner of disposing or arranging the threads is similar to that which has
hitherto been adopted in weaving common cotton velvets, velveteens, cords, &c.,
and it is immaterial whether the mohair is also used as the binding thread or
threads, and woven with a single shuttle, if preferred, or otherwise, or whether
the cloth or ground is woven as usual or diagonally, as twill or any other ground
for the back, if found suitable. When the velvet is woven, it may be stiffened,
suitably cut, dressed, dyed, if required, and finished by ordinary processes.
The method of weaving the above description of mohair velvet is as follows:---
The binding thread or threads weave plain calico or taffeta ground, or twill, or
any other ground for the back, if found suitable; the pile thread or threads pass
under one warp thread and float over any required number of warp threads,
according to the length of the pile required; when cut, the pile so manufactured
is to be cut in the middle in the ordinary way, as in cutting common cotton
velvet, and it will be evident that there may be as many repetitions of this pile
as required; the pile thread need not pass under only one warp thread, but it
may, if required, also pass under two or more warp threads in order to make the
binding or fastening of such pile, or the ground of the cloth more secure, in a
similar manner as silk velvets are now commonly made, when cut with wires
across the piece, as in ordinary practice.
Having thus particularly described the nature of my said Invention, and the
manner of performing the same (which from the above description will be per-
fectly evident to the practical weaver), I desire it to be understood that I claim
as of my Invention the novel manufacture of mohair velvet, or such other plain
piled goods or fabrics (not being fancy plush or plush, as my improvements
apply to velvet only, either plain, fancy, or striped, with a mohair pile woven
as weft, and in such a manner that I am enabled to cut the pile the length way

page_text: of the piece of goods (or in the line of direction of the warp when woven, in
contradistinction to the ordinary way of manufacturing velvet, the pile of which
has hitherto always been woven as warp, and afterwards cut the cross way of
the piece of goods, or in the line of direction of the weft.
In witness whereof, I, the said Adolphus Oppenheimer, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Twenty-first day of August, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
ADOLPHUS OPPENHEIMER. (L.S.)