IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING AND EMBROIDERING WOVEN, KNITTED, DYED, PRINTED, PLAIN, REVERSIBLE, FIGURED, FANCY, FINISHED AND UNFINISHED CLOTHS, WORSTED COATINGS, SILK CLOTHS, IMITATION SEAL SKINS, VELVETS, DAMASK, CARPETS, DRUGGET, FELT, AND OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS
Year: 1879

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by George Rydill at the Office of the
Commissioners of Patents on the 6th December 1879.
GEORGE RYDILL, of 41, Southampton Buildings, Holborn, in the County of
Middlesex. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING AND EMBROIDERING WOVEN,
KNITTED, DYED, PRINTED, PLAIN, REVERSIBLE, FIGURED, FANCY, FINISHED AND
UNFINISHED CLOTHS, WORSTED COATINGS, SILK CLOTHS, IMITATION SEAL SKINS,
VELVETS, DAMASK, CARPETS, DRUGGET, FELT, AND OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS.”
This Invention consists in the manufacture of piece goods and fabrics with
embroidered, figured, or coloured designs, and in ornamenting woven, knitted, or
felted, finished or unfinished, plain, reversible, or double cloth, piece goods, or fabries,
imitation seal skin, piece goods, silk cloths after being dyed black, brown, blue,
drab, yellow, puce, magenta, green, scarlet, or any other colour in the wool or piece
goods, or after the piece goods are woven and finished as figured cloths, fancies,
coloured mixtures, white, or in the natural state of the wool, woollen, shoddy,
mungo, virgin silk, rag silk; cow, calf, or goat hair, camel hair, mohair, animal or
vegetable fibre, after the piece goods have been woven, dyed and finished; plain or
as a nap, witney, pilot, beever, reversible, devon, president, worsted cloths, tweeds,
coatings, cloakings, paramattas, felted cloths, plain, fancy and reversible silk and
cotton velvet pile, silk cloths from rag silk, plain and reversible; raised or cut
imitation seal skin cloths, damask, counterpanes, carpets, druggets, flannel, cut silk
pile cloths, raised or cut piece goods and fabrics, which may have been woven,
figured, knitted, felted, or printed to any figure, colour or colours, pattern, or design,
without reducing the strength of the fabric or interfering with or retarding the
rapid production of plain piece goods and fabrics now produced in the loom or
knitting machine, or without the working or changing of shafts or coloured warp
and weft for producing figures and designs. The woven, knitted, or felted cloths,
piece goods, fabrics, or material are embroidered independently of the mere weaving,
knitting, felting, or printing of the same in various coloured flat or raised tufts,
bunches, or designs of different coloured dyed virgin silk, rag silk, Berlin wool,
worsted, wool, extract wool, shoddy, mungo, mohair, alpacca, camel hair, animal or
vegetable hair or fibre, twisted or curled yarns, ribbon, gold or silver threads, silk
tassels, or material hand made, woven, or machine embroidered silk flowers, leaves,
roses, corn-ears, feathers, buds, figures in a variety of tasteful designs spread at
certain distances over the surface of the cloth, piece goods, and fabrics, according to
taste or design for producing a good effect, which is sewn on by hand sewing or

page_text: embroidering machine to the surface of the fabrics. Or figures or designs are
photographed, printed, or lithographed in gold or colours of any design on silk,
animal, or vegetable fabrics, which hand made, machine embroidered, woven, photo-
graphed, printed, or lithographed designs in fast colours are separated from any
number of figures or designs produced on silk fabrics, animal, or vegetable fabrics
or material, and placed on parchment, cloth, felt, leather, or other material stamped
or cut out to suit the figures or designs, so that it forms a neat covering like that
of a button. Also spangles or tinsels are mixed with coloured silk, wool, woollen,
or other animal or vegetable substances, or buttons, or devices of coloured pile
velvet, cloth, silk and satin, felt, stuff, pearl, shell, ivory, jet, glass, metals, gilt and
electro-plated buttons, or designs, vegetable ivory nut buttons turned to any form
and dyed to any shade, leather, papier maché, hoofs of cattle, clay, slate, vegetable
fibres, woollen cuttings, rosin, horn cut, turned, or pressed into designs, dyed, printed
or stained any required colour; or tufts, bunches, tassels, woven, hand or machine
made, embroidered silk or satin flowers, leaves, buds, in a variety of tasteful designs,
are produced from silk waste, extracted or pulled up, silk waste or extracted or
pulled up silk rags or ribbons into a silk down or wool, which is spun into yarns
or threads, dyed or printed any colour, and used for hand or machine made tufts,
bunches, tassels, or for producing figures and designs; which extracted silk yarns
are fully described in my patented Invention, dated March 12th, 1877, and
numbered 1856.
Also tufts or bunches, or cured animal skins, rabbit or hare skins, fur, mohair,
seal, lamb, or sheep skins are cut or stamped into various forms; which cured hair
or fur skins are dyed, printed, tipped, or stained any required colour and placed on
parchment, cloth, felt, leather or material cut to suit the device, so that it forms a
neat covering like that of a button, which tufts, bunches, or designs are sewn or
embroidered on to the finished cloths, piece goods, and fabrics by hand or machine,
forming tasteful designs.
The cloth, piece goods, and fabrics to be embroidered with tufts, bunches and
figured designs are placed perpendicularly between two rollers or beams which turn
round and enable the cloth or piece goods to be rolled from off one beam and on to
the other, the space between the two rollers being occupied by a smooth well-
stretched portion of the cloth. The rollers are worked by small handles, and there
are ratchet wheels to prevent them from slipping backwards. Or the cloth, piece
goods, or fabrics are spread over a table or stretched over a frame, and by a pierced
design drawn on paper, cotton, leather; silk, cloth, wood, sheet metal, cardboard or
other substance pierced with holes to form a perforated figure or design, which is
placed over the piece goods or fabrics, and the small tufts or bunches of different
coloured dyed new silk, rag, ribbon, and waste silk, Berlin wool, worsted, wool,
hair, mohair, animal or vegetable fibres or yarns, ribbon, twisted or curled yarns, or
threads of gold or silver, silk, tassels, hand made, woven, figured or designed, or
machine embroidered virgin or raw silk, flowers, leaves, figures in any variety of
taste or design for producing a good effect on the piece goods or fabrics. One
colour or any number of colours, according to taste or design, and by means of a
needle, yarn or thread attached to a tuft, bunch, tassel, figure, or coloured animal,
vegetable, minoral, or composition substance may be employed. To form a design
the needle and thread is passed through the pierced openings of the design on the
face side, and the tufts or bunches when drawn close to the face side form a raised
figure, and are stitched on the back side of the cloth, piece goods, or fabrics. Or
the figure or design to be formed on the piece goods or fabrics is marked or stained
by any coloured liquid or substance passed through the pierced openings of the
design, or printed, marked, or set out with a revolving hollow pierced cylinder or
with pins or threads passed through the pierced openings and fabrics, so that
machine or hand made natural or coloured tufts, bunches, tassels, embroidered,
woven, knitted, looped, crocheted, stamped, or other ornamental work is sewn to
the surface of the cloth, piece goods, or fabrics by hand sewing or an embroidering
machine.

page_text: In this manner finished dyed piece goods, mixture cloths, fancy woven or printed
cloths of dyed, printed, tipped, or natural coloured imitation seal skin, piece goods,
felt, silk, or other fabrics are embroidered, so that the surface of finished piece goods
or fabrics shows raised coloured spots, tufts, bunchos, flowers, leaves, embroidered,
printed, lithographed, or woven rich lively figures and designs which change entirely
the appearance of plain, finished, witneyed, napped, figured, raised, embossed, or
imitation seal skin cloths. Other styles of finished piece goods and fabrics are dyed
and finished one colour, and are embroidered to show any number of neat figured
or fancy coloured designs which could not be produced in the loom. To attempt to
finish uneven surfaces of cloth, piece goods, and fabrics with raised tufts, bunches,
tassels, or designs, the plain finish cutting knives, witneying or napping machine
would cut away the raised tufts and figures before the smooth surface of piece goods
could be acted upon.
Having described how woven figured, felted, fulled and unfulled, plain, single,
reversible, and double cloths, piece goods, and fabrics are ornamented with hand or
machine made embroidery, woven or machine made tufts, bunches, tassels, leaves,
flowers, birds, buttons, or other ornamental figures, I now explain how single,
reversible, or double faced cloth, piece goods, or fabrics are produced in the loom
or knitting machine with hand or machine made tufts, bunches, tassels, leaves,
flowers, birds, buttons, or other ornamental designs on one side or on both sides
woven into either plain, figured, or fancy piece goods or fabrics by hand or power
in the following manner:-The warp or chain is composed of virgin silk, rag silk
from pulled up silk rags, worsted, woollen, shoddy, mungo, hair, linen, jute, China
grass, cotton, or any mixture of animal or vegetable fibres or yarns either in the
natural colour, dyed, or printed, so that woollen, virgin silk, rag silk goods or
fabrics, imitation soal skin, damask, shawls, muffs, bags, travelling rugs, horse rugs,
hearth rugs, mats, petticoats, cushions, slippers, hats, bonnets, jackets, counterpanes,
carpets are produced in the loom or hand or machine inade to any pattern, figure,
colour, or design.
As a carpet is well understood and will answer the purpose to explain how any
class of plain, reversible, figured, or fancy piece goods or fabrics can be woven with
tufts, bunches, or designs, I will describe the weave in a carpet woven plain with a
scarlet ground, and figured with tufts or designs in the following manner :-A scarlet
worsted warp is wound on to a beam and arranged in the loom any required width
in the ordinary manner of weaving, and a scarlet weft is caused by hand or power
to pass backwards and forwards amongst the warp threads until, say, two inches
have been woven at the commencement of the piece, forming a plain scarlet ground.
I then insert a double tuft, bunch, or other figured or coloured design, which double
tufts, bunches, or designs are attached to each other in the make or with thread,
string, cord, wire, rivetted, or other ineans which resemble in form the fastening of
two button shanks together, so that the tufts, bunches, or other designs are separated
from each other according to the required thickness of the carpet or other woven
or knitted fabrics. The double tufts, bunches, or designs may be of various colours
or designs, and the tufts, bunches, or designs are placed betwixt the warp threads
apart from each other, and placed close to the two inch piece which I have already
described as woven. To make it clearly understood I will say that they are
separated apart from each other every four inches across the piece, and when the
tufts, bunches, or designs have been placed so that they will show and stand out
prominently on the face and underside of the piece goods or fabrics, the scarlet weft
is then passed backwards and forwards as before, thus securely fastening the tufts,
bunches, or designs. When two inches more have been woven another row of tufts,
bunches, or designs are placed as before betwixt the warp threads, so that they
stand betwixt the first row, and shown on both the face and underside of the piece.
The scarlet weft is again passed backwards and forwards, which fastens the tufts,
bunches, or designs, and when two inches more have been woven another row of
tufts, bunches, or designs are placed betwixt the warp threads so that they stand
opposite to the first row in the piece and show on the face and underside, so that

page_text: the second row forms a centre to the first and third rows; the scarlet weft is then
passed backwards and forwards, and on being knocked well up to fasten the tufts,
bunches, or designs in the fabric, the weaving in like manner proceeds to any
required breadth or length, and any weave, pattern, or design, according to the
figure, colour or colours of warp or weft, are produced and ornamented with tufts,
bunches, flowers, or designs of virgin silk, rag silk, wool, woollen, hair, animal or
vegetable fibres, or other material, so that hand or machine made embroidery,
woven, knitted, stamped, or designs are produced in carpets, cloth, and other fabrics,
are made to show embroidered figures or other designs on both sides, and when the
warp and weft is clean scoured and the piece woven it is ready for use; but carpets
and other fabrics may be woven in the grease state and washed or scoured in the
piece, and may also be fulled with care.
Or carpets are woven with tufts, bunches, or other designs which will show only
on the face side, locked in the threads passing along the warp; or tufts, bunches,
or designs are fixed to a cord, string, or wire any required distance apart from each
other, passed from the underside or drawn betwixt the warp threads, and the tufts,
bunches, or designs are drawn at any required distance apart from each other on to
the face side, and the weft passes backwards and forwards to secure the same firmly
into the positions; or two strings on which are placed tufts, bunches, or designs are
twisted together and drawn betwixt the warp threads, and the tufts, bunches, or
designs are arranged so that they show on the face and back side according to taste
or design, and are fastened firmly in the piece with the crossing and locking of the
warp and weft threads.
This kind of weaving applies to any required class of cloths or other fabrics, and
to any description of warp or weft.
I also pass silk ribbon or twisted cord or yarn from one tuft or design to tlie
other to ornament the fabric with an embroidering machine.
Or tufts or designs are fastened by a thread running from one to the other
through the cloth or fabric.
Or they may be fastened with wire or brass fasteners attached to colours or
designs and passed through the piece on the face side, and opened out on the
back side like paper fasteners; or they are clenched or rivetted to the piece goods
or fabrics.
Or double tufts are compressed and drawn through a pierced hole made by a
pricker, which divides the threads but closes up again sufficiently to hold the tufts
or designs in their positions.
Or the tufts, bunches, or designs are sewn or embroidered to the fabrics by hand
or machine on one or both sides with two needles in the same manner or action as
a shoe-maker sews.