IMPROVEMENT IN SHIRT OR SLEEVE STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER ANALOGOUS ARTICLES
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to' Narcisse Salmon 'and Albert Delaviere, of Paris, in the
Republic of France, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENT IN SHIRT OR SLEEVE
STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER ANALOGOUS ARTICLES."
Sealed the 13th October 1877, and dated the 28th August 1877.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Narcisse Salmon and Albert
Delaviere at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 28th August
1877.
.
NARCISSE SALMON and ALBERT DELAVIERE, of Paris, in the Republic of France.
"IMPROVEMENT IN SHIRT OR SLEEVE STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER ANALOGOUS
ARTICLES."
According to our Invention, shirt or sleeve studs or other analogous articles are
formed in two parts, one fixed and the other moveable. The moveable part is com-
posed of a head and shank, connected together by a short shaft, and between these
two there is a fixed part or bar which admits of the stud being inserted in its place
with facility, and of keeping the button holes together.
The means employed for securing or keeping the stud in place when it has been
inserted may be varied according to the circumstances of the case, we therefore
consider it advisable to describe different forms of parts, all however having the
same object.
In the accompanying Drawings Figures 1 and 21 are two elevations of a sleeve
stud or solitaire; Fig. 2 is a plan or under-side view of Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a vertical
section; and Fig. 4, an under side plan view of a stud, in which the moveable part
is held in place by a horizontal spring; Figures 5 and 6 are similar views, in which
a vertical spring acts against the sides of a square shaft or axle.
Figures 7 and 8 are provided with a helical spring and two clutch discs; in
Figures 9 and 10, instead of the clutch discs, there is a disc with four holes
arranged in the form of a cross, and into which holes two pins fixed in the head
may be inserted.
Figures 11 and 12 represent a stud constructed on the same principle, but in a
cheaper manner.
Figures 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 represent a stud with a much lighter and more
yielding spring than either of the preceding ones.
77

page_text: Figures 18, 19, and 20 shew a spring of another form, but effecting the same
object as the preceding. All these figures are drawn from three to six times the
real size of the sleeve studs, and similar letters of reference denote corresponding.
parts.
In Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 A, a, is the rod of the stud and carries a plate B, b,
pierced with a cylindrical hole C, through which passes the axle f. This rod is
attached at one end to the top of the stud, and at the other extremity to a shank,
with which it turns; D, d, is the upper plate provided with a flange d¹, D¹, and
forms the stud properly so called, the shape and ornamentation of which may vary
without departing from the nature and object of the present Invention; E, e, is a
moveable shank attached to the end of the pin or shaft f, which latter is attached to
the upper plate d either by rivetting, as at f¹; Fig. 3, or by a screw, then it is con-
nected to the shank e by rivetting or in any other convenient manner.
The pin or
shaft passes completely through the bar a, so that when the latter is inserted into
the two button holes (which the stud is intended to hold together) it will only be
necessary to take the head d, d, between the fingers, and then turn it a quarter of a
turn. The bar A being held by the button holes will remain motionless while the
head of the stud is being turned, and as the shank will follow its movement, it
will be more at right angles to the bar A, as shewn at Figure 21 and indicated by
dots in Figures 1 and 2. The projecting ends e³, es, Fig. 21 of the shank will thus
form a stop and will prevent the stud from coming out of the button holes. A
spring g is fixed upon the square part g' of the pin or shaft f and enters into small
notches 62 made with slightly rounded edges. The stud when the shank is turned
at right angles to the bar a, as shewn at Figures 1, 2, and 21, will be held in place,
and the edge b¹ between the notches forms a double-inclined plane, upon which the
spring slides or moves when the head D of the stud is turned round. This
arrangement of spring is modified in Figures 5 and 6 without making any alteration
in the other parts. The difference is that instead of being placed horizontally it is
set on edge, and its two ends enter a slit or slot h, h, and it is supported at the
middle of its length upon the side k of the pin or shaft f, so that when this pin is
turned on its axis, the spring being thrust back by the angle of the square,
yields, and then comes forward again and bears against another face of the
square. This arrangement is more easily made than the former.
Figures 7 and 8 represent the same kind of stud, but in this instance instead of
the spring there are two dises l, m, which are provided with projections and
corresponding recesses, and are kept in contact with each other by a coiled spring o
being made to pass against the lower disc l, which carries two wing pieces 1, 11,
which are let into notches in the bar a, so that the parts cannot be moved round
until the wings are removed from the notches by turning the stud.
Figures 9 and 10 represent another arrangement which differs slightly from the
former one. In place of two discs with projections thereon there is but one disc p
with wing pieces p', p'. It is pierced with four conical holes, and the head d carries
two small conical studs or pins which will enter two opposite holes, and will
thus form a slight stop to the moveable piece in whatever position it may be
placed.
Figures 11 and 12 represent a stud of very simple construction. The head d is
the same as in the former case, but the moveable shank e has its under side a little
more rounded, the bar a of the stud d' is hollow and encloses a coiled spring which
admits of the movement of the bar a, the concave part al of which is made of two
concave recesses at right angles to each other, so as to receive in the two positions
the rounded part of the shank.
Figures 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 represent a stud similar to the one above described,
although of a somewhat different form, inasmuch as its upper part is rounded or
made convex, and the manufacture is rendered more simple, and applicable for the
use of mechanical tools for the production of the article. The form, however,
makes no change in the general arrangement of the parts; D' is the convex or
external part. The stud is made hollow, and the bevilled back S is soldered upon

page_text: the part D' at d', d', and carries a rebate at S¹, S¹, and a projecting piece at S³. A
pin or shaft being in transverse section in the form of a cross, with equal sides,
and rounded off as shewn at Figures 14 and 15 is screwed into the projection S² of
the convex head D₁. A plate T, Fig. 14, is pierced with a hole t, of the form of the
cross section of the shaft f¹, and carries a tail piece t¹ which is inserted in the
opening S of the hollow bottom S, and prevent the shaft f¹, which is only screwed
in, from turning in its socket A. Spring V is pierced with a round hole of greater
diameter than the shaft f¹, and has 2 wing pieces v, v, which are curved and bent
down and made to bear against the shaft f¹. The bar A¹, Fig. 13, is provided with
a flange a² which rests in the rebate S₁ in which it is capable of turning. The
inner side a³ of the bar A¹ is made concave, and the shank E¹ (fixed to the end of
the shaft f¹) rests therein. It will be seen on referring to Fig. 20 that the outer
end of the shaft f¹ is made rectangular or oblong although it is screwed, this admits
of it being attached to the shank in a very solid manner. The dotted lines e¹ in
Fig. 13 indicate the end view of the shank when it is turned at right angles to
the bar A'. This stud is used in the same manner as those already described,
the pressure of the spring V upon the sides of the shaft f¹ will be amply sufficient
to prevent the stud from being displaced, unless some force be employed.
Figures 16 and 17 represent a spring which is applied in exactly the same manner
as in the preceding instance, and also acts in the same manner, the only difference
being that its two sides are raised up at v2, v3, instead of being bent inwards.
Figures 18 and 19 represent a spring of another shape, but which acts in the
same manner as the preceding ones, the two ends are rounded or hollowed out, the
shaft is round and smooth, and is solidly fixed at S³. A round plate X, Fig. 19,
made with a central opening having four recesses with rounded corners and with
two projecting side pieces x, x2, is adapted to the back of the stud, the two side
pieces x, x, being intended to rest in two rectangular holes 84, 85, made in the back
plate S, Fig. 18, so that it cannot move in either direction. The hollow bar A' and
the shank E' are similar to the preceding one. The double spring Z, Z, is bent back
as shewn at Fig. 18, and has a hole made at its centre to allow the end of the shaft
f2 to pass through. The two extremities of the spring are made concave at Z³, as
shewn in the Drawing, Fig. 19; and it will be seen that if the bar A¹ is held steady
while the head of the stud is turned one quarter of a circle the end of the spring Z
will leave the recesses x3, x³, and enter those marked x, x³. The shank being thus
at right angles to the bar A', as shewn at Fig. 21, will hold the fabric between it
and the projecting point of the stud. The wavy form of the opening in the plate
X, in combination with the stiffness of the spring Z, renders this arrangement an
excellent and simple mode of fixing studs for sleeves, wrist bands, shirt fronts, and
other purposes.
Having now described our "Improvements in Shirt or Sleeve Studs, Solitaires,
and other analogous Articles," and having explained the means of carrying the
same into effect, we claim as the Invention secured to us by Letters Patent as
aforesaid the mode or modes herein set forth of combining the several parts of the
stud, or that the shank may be easily inserted in the button hole and then turned
round at right angles, so as to retain the stud or other article in place, and prevent
it from becoming accidentally removed, as above described.
In witness whereof, we, the said Narcisse Salmon and Albert Delaviere, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, the 25th day of August, in the of our
Lord One thousand aight hundred and seventy-seven
NARCISSE SALMON. (L.S.)
ALBERT DELAVIERE. (L.S.)