CERTAIN PROCESSES AND APPARATUS FOR PREPARING, BEAMING, PRINTING, AND WEAVING YARNS OF COTTON, LINEN, SILK, WOOLEN, AND OTHER FIBROUS SUBSTANCES, SO THAT ANY DESIGN, DEVICE, OR FIGURE PRINTED ON SUCH YARN MAY BE PRESERVED WHEN SUCH YARN IS WOVEN INTO CLOTH OR OTHER FABRIC
Year: 1831

page_text: SCHWABE, of Manchester, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent, under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Twenty-second day of January, in the first year of His
reign, did, for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
Louis Schwabe, His especial licence, sole privilege and authority, that I, the
said Louis Schwabe, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Louis Schwabe, my exors, adfñiors, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term
of years therein mentioned, should and lawfully might make, use, excrcise,
and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my
Invention of "CERTAIN PROCESSES AND APPARATUS FOR PREPARING, BEAMING,
PRINTING, AND WEAVING YARNS OF COTTON, LINEN, SILK, WOOLEN, AND OTHER
FIBROUS SUBSTANCES, SO THAT ANY DESIGN, DEVICE, OR FIGURE PRINTED ON SUCH
YARN MAY BE PRESERVED WHEN SUCH YARN IS WOVEN INTO CLOTH OR OTHER
FABRIC;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said
Louis Schwabe, shall cause a particular description of the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in
His said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next:

page_text: and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent
as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and a
large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said Louis
Schwabe, do hereby declare that the nature of my Invention, and the manner
in which the same is to be performed and carried into effect, is described and
clearly shown by the Drawings hereto annexed, and the following description
thereof, the same letters and figures marked thereon indicating the same parts
throughout.
Before I commence the description of my various apparatus by which I
effect the printing of yarn, so as to preserve the figure or design after such yarn
is woven into cloth or other fabric, I shall state a few particulars to be attended
to in the selection and preparation of yarn to be used for this purpose.
Although the effect which I am about to describe may be produced with yarn
of any description ordinarily used as warp, yet that which I recommend, when
cotton, linen, or worsted is used, is such as has been singed or gassed, so as to
divest it of its loose fibers. This yarn should be made into hanks, and bleached
or submitted to any of the ordinary preparations practised by printers previous
to block printing, which preparations must altogether depend on the stile of
pattern which it is intended to print thereon; the yarn is now formed into a
warp, and afterwards beamed in the usual manner, care being taken to have
the beam particularly true. At this period of the process it is essential to pick
the warp carefully and clean it, in the same manner as weavers do previous to
weaving cloth; the warp being now placed on the beam, my
" certain pro-
cosses and apparatus" will be more clearly understood by reference to the
annexed Drawing, which I shall now proceed to describe, along with the
modo of operation by which the warp is rebeamed, printed, and wove, so that
any design or figure printed thereon is preserved when such yarn is woven into
cloth.
Figure 1, Sheet 1, represents an elevation or side view of a machine for
rebeaming the warp from the first beam on which it has been placed in the
ordinary manner. In this Figure, A, A, A, A, represents the framing, and B,
the first beam whereon the warp is placed, this is supported on its centre, and
held stationary by means of a break or drag, shewn at C. This arrangement
of a break is too well known to require any particular description, and is regu-
lated by the position of the weight c on the lever from which it is suspended.
1), D, represents a board pierced full of holes, better seen in a plan of it at
Figure 2; this board is suspended by means of strings from each corner, which
are attached to the framing above, and so arranged as to enable the operator
1

page_text: to place it in the position shewn at D, D, Figure 1, or lower it to the dotted
line d, d; it is called a "cumber board," and is here for the purpose of sup-
porting and arranging small metallic pieces called "mails," one of which is
represented at its full size at Figure 3; these mails are arranged on the upper
side of the "cumber board," one to every end of the warp, and at a distance
from each other which agrees with the count or fineness of the reed to be used
in the weaving about to be performed.
In referring to Figure 3, it will be seen that there are two holes in the
"mail," there represented, to the lower of which is attached a small string and
leaden weight E, Figure 1, commonly called a "lingo," so that when put in
its place, as seen at D, D, Figure 1, the mail being to large to pass through
the hole in the cumber board, rests on its upper surface, and is held stationary
by means of the string and lingo weight E; through the upper hole of every
one of these mails an end of the warp is passed, which proceeds forwards over
the cylinder F, as seen in Figure 1, through the healds G, and the reed of the
lathe H, on to the beam I, whereon it is rebeamed. In the first operation of
a machine of this construction, it will necessarily require to be gaited or put in
order, by passing the ends of the warp through the respective mails, and other
parts of the apparatus; but supposing it to have been in action, and a warp
finished, rebeaming from the beam B to the beam I, the mode of proceeding
would be as follows:-The first warp being placed in the position represented
at B, it is twisted or joined to the thrum of the last warp at the point M in
the ordinary manner, the ends of the respective warps being preserved by
means of leashes, as shewn at m and n; as soon as this twisting or joining of
the old and new warp is effected, the beam I is revolved in the direction of
the bent arrow on its periphery, and the warp drawn forward until the twisting
arrives in the front of the reed H, where a piece of cloth is woven of from
three to four inches, having a rod or straight piece of wood woven into it; the
thrum or end of the old warp is now removed, and the remainder, which
contains the rod on the new warp, is attached to an empty beam I, by means of
the rod, which fits into a slot or groove in the beam I; at this period, tho
"cumber board" is lowered to the position d, d, and the mails and lingoes
allowed to hang on the warp, thus producing an equal tension on every end
of the warp during the re-beaming process. It will be remembered that this
machine is for the purpose or re-beaming preparatory to printing, and that the
use of harness or weaving apparatus is, firstly, in weave a piece of cloth, as
before described, by which the rod is secured in the warp, and thereby attached
to beam I; secondly, to strike a leash in front of the reed when the warp is near
its termination on the beam B; and, thirdly, to weave a second piece of cloth,

page_text: for the purpose of securing the leash, and also for the fastening the ends of the
thrumb, which remain in the machine for the succeeding process." In operating
with this machine, attention must be paid that none of the mails at any time
rest on the "cumber board" when in the position d, d, which would necessarily
destroy their action of keeping the ends of the warp at an equal tension. I also
recommend pasteboard to be placed occasionally on the beam I during the
process of filling, to keep the surface more regular. The position of the weight
C must also be attended to, as it is obvious that the drag of the beam B must
increase as its circumference decreases; but these and other minor points must
be acquired by practice, and are well known to parties engaged in fancy
weaving.
Figure 4 represents an elevation or side view of another machine for the
purpose of transferring the warp which has been re-beamed on to the beam I, in
the last described machine, to another beam marked O in this Figure, and at
the same time printing the warp so transferred with a pattern or design which
is to be preserved in the cloth into which the warp is afterwards to be woven.
In this machine, the beam I, containing a warp as placed by the last machine,
is seen in front of the harness or weaving part of the machine; which harness,
as in the last-described machine, is for the purpose of weaving small pieces of
cloth at the extremity of the warp, by which means the ends are kept even,
and a rod inserted, as before described, for the purpose of attaching to the
beam. The warp in this machine is carried in an horizontal direction from the
beam I, through the healds, and over a printing table N, N, to the beam O,
which beam being forced round by a lever, or otherwise, take up the warp
from the beam I, which latter gives it off at a tension determined or regulated
by the friction of the drag P and weight p, similar to the drag in the last
machine. The gudgeons or supports on which the beam O revolves are
clevated or depressed by a screw movement, shewn at Q, by means of which
the operator is enabled to keep the warp horizontal in its passage over the
printing table N, N, and to compensate for the rise caused by the filling of
the beam O during the process. In commencing with this machine, it is
required that a thrum be put in or drawn through the healds; and the scale
marked t, which is of a peculiar construction, hereafter described, to the end of
which the new warp is twisted or picced in. the ordinary manner, and sup-
posing the machine to be regularly at work, and a full beam I brought from
the last-described machine, the mode of proceeding would be as follows:-The
small piece of cloth on the new warp must be gradually cut away as the twist-
ing proceeds which is to join the new warp to the old thrum at the point S; and
as soon as this is done, the beam O is put in motion till the twisting is carried

page_text: in the direction of the arrow to the point T'; at which point a piece of cloth of
from three to four inches is woven by means of the scale t, which is suspended
from the frame above by strings; this cloth is for the purpose of holding the
ends correct, and containing a rod, as already described. This being done, the
old thrum is removed, and the scale t placed between the table and the beam
O at the point T, where it is suspended as beforo; the warp is attached to an
empty beam O, and the printing commences. I must here remark, that it is
requisite that the machinery bo accurately constructed, and the beams I and O
parallel to each other; which being the case, it is obvious the whole of the
warp will remain at an equal tension, and present a uniform surface in its
transit over the printing table N, N. The printing is performed by blocks,
plates, or otherwise, precisely in the same manner as calicocs are printed, and
the traverso of the yarn is only caused to take place at stated periods, namely,
when the printing of that part immediately over the table N, N, is completed.
During this part of the process any irregularity which may ariso by the moving
the warp over the surface of the printing table is immediately rectified by
moving the healds. Annexed to the printing table N, N, is placed a cylinder
u, over which the warp passes towards the table; the upper surface of which
is about one sixteenth of an inch above the surface of the printing table, and on
a level with the beam O, which is adjusted by means of the screw Q, before
described, so that the warp has a tendency to spring up from the blanket when
released from the block, which I consider essential to producing good work by
my process. W and W', Figure 4, represent two cylinders, both parallel with the
beam O. On the cylinder W is placed a piece of calico somewhat wider and
longer than the warp at the commencement of printing; this calico is passed in
the direction of the arrows under the printing table N, N, and over the guido
roller Z, where it proceeds over tho printing table and on to the upper cylinder
W. The cylinder W is moved by a strap from the beam O, which causes it
to take up as much calico on to its surface as there is warp taken on to the
surface of the beam O, thereby presenting a fresh surface of calico to every
surface of warp which passes over the printing table N, N, and consequently
keeping the blanket clean during the process of printing. There only remains
now to remark, that the healds which I have found to answer best, both in the
process of re-beaming and printing, are those called long-eyed healds, from their
offering less obstruction to the passage of the warp during the process, and
that the use and construction of the scalo t is very essential to the performanco
of good work. This scalo t is constructed as follows:-Having determined tho
number or fineness of the reed to be used in the cloth about to be manu-
factured; I take the same reed, for the purpose of making the scale t, and form

page_text: a warp of strong yarn, of which I prefer hard silk, which must be carefully
beamed and rebeamed in the manner already described. It must be then
woven in the following manner, with as much weight as possible; first, one inch
of cloth, then insert a perfectly straight iron rod, after which about half an
inch more cloth is woven; this being done, about five inches of the warp is
drawn over without being woven, and then another half inch of cloth is woven,
and a second iron rod inserted, which is kept fast by weaving another inch of
cloth, as before. At this period the whole of the woven parts of the scales
are saturated with a strong solution of gum, for the purpose of keeping the
threads of the warp more firmly in their position. The appearance of the
scale, thus far constructed, will be seen at Figure 7, but as the spring or
elasticity of the rods X, X, which are kept equidistant by the side pieces Y, Y,)
would not keep the warp at the requisite tension, I have found it necessary
to imbed the rods in hard wood frames, of which I represent a section at
Figure 8, which, when closed together by means of screws or other fastenings,
forms a scale, as represented at Figure 9. The scale t, thus co nstructed, is
suspended from the framing of the machine, and it is requisite in the first place
to spread the warp to be printed even and regular in its passage over the
printing table, which is effected by carrying each separate end of the warp
through a distinct opening in the scale; in the next place, to obviate the
necessity of rods in the subsequent process of weaving when removed to the
loom, which it does by enabling the weaver to find an end when broken in the
same manner as rods would do; and, lastly, as it is not effected by the chemical
action of the mordant or other preparation, used in printing, and any accumu-
lation of mordant or other preparation, is easily removed by a spongo or other
means, as the process of printing proceeds. In using the scale, it is desirable
to commence with the scale suspended at its highest point, and as the printing
proceeds, the operator should gradually lower it, as the scale becomes soiled
by the printed warp passing through it, and as soon as the whole five inches of
the scale which are left open for the passage of the warp have been passed
downwards, it may be cleaned, which being done, it is again raised to its highest
elevation, and the process recommenced. When the printing of the warp is
finished, I recommend to let about one yard and a half be wound back on the
beam I, and having raised the beam O, by means of the screws Q, to replace
the scale in its first position at T, and weave ten or twelve picks of weft for the
purpose of securing the warp ends; the printed warp is then again drawn
forward to the beam 0; a leash is taken and secured by weaving five or six
inches of cloth with a rod in it, so that when the five or six inches of cloth is
divided, the rod remains with the thrum, healds, and scale, and the printed

page_text: warp on bean "O" is removed to the loom wherein it is to be woven, and
when removed to the loom, the ten or twelve picks above named are taken out
as soon as the twisting is complete, and about a yard of cloth woven. It will
also be remarked, that the pasteboards which have been previously placed ou
the beam I are in this process replaced on the beam O, as it becomes libe-
rated from I, for the same purpose of keeping the warp more regular, and
that the drying of the printed yarn is greatly accelerated by the use of a fan,
similar to those used by weavers for drying their warps in ordinary weaving.
The printed warp upon the beam O is now transferred to a loom, which should
have as short a ratch as can be allowed, and the greatest caro must bo taken
that the rloth beam and the beam O are accurately parallel, as well as that
the surface of the warp be kept horizontal, which is effected by means of scrows
similar to those seen at Q in Figure 4; and I also recommend, in the weaving
of printed yarns, the use of clasped healds, which consists of opposite loops
interlocked in cach other, so that the warp passing through both loops, as
shewn at Figure 6, is held firm in the healds, and not allowed to move in them
during the action of weaving. The use of clasped healds, together with the
scale t, which enables me to dispense with rods in the process of weaving, I
consider essential to preserving the pattern on the warp, and as an important
part of my Invention. When the warp is woven into cloth, the pattern which
has been printed on it must be dyed, raised, washed, or prepared, or perfected,
according to the ordinary processes used in printing; all which must depend
on the previous preparation of the yarn and the style of work which it is
intended to produce.
Having now described my certain processes and apparatus for preparing,
beaming, printing, and weaving yarns of cotton, linen, silk, woollen and other
fibrous substances, so that any design, device, or figure printed thereon may be
preserved, when such yarn is woven into cloth or other fabric, I declare that
I do not claim as of iny Invention any separato or well-known parts of tho
apparatus or machinery herein-before described; but I do claim the arrange-
ment and application of those parts as an apparatus, and the processes or
manner of working the same, by which the rebeaming, printing, and weaving
the warp, so as to preserve the pattern, is effected, all which I beliovo to be
new and never before practised in this kingdom.
In witness whereof, I, the said Louis Schwabe, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and thirty-one.
LOUIS (L.B.) SCHWABE.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Sixteenth day of July, in the
year of our Lord 1831, the aforesaid Louis Schwabe came before our said
Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification aforesaid,
and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above written.
And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the tenor of the
Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Twenty-second day of July, in the year of our Lord Oue
thousand eight hundred and thirty-one.