Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvets and Velveteens.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Aug., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 24th May, 1892-Accepted, 16th July, 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvets and Velveteens.
I, JAMES BAMFORD Cotton Spinner & Manufacturer Shorelea Oldham do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention consists in the manufacture of velvets and velveteens with a face for
cutting on both sides of the cloth, and is attained by floating the weft over the warp
so as to produce races (which when cut forms the face) on both sides of the cloth,
instead of only on one as is now customary.
My invention is applicable to any length of float, and to all methods or modifica-
tions of the same, by which velvets or velveteens can be manufactured.
Dated the 22nd day of August 1891.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvets and Velveteens.
I JAMES BAMFORD of Shorelea, Oldham in the County of Lancaster, Cotton
Spinner and Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement :-
"
My invention relates to the manufacture of velvets, velveteens and plushes and
has for its object the manufacture of velvets, velveteens and plushes with a "face
for cutting on both sides of the cloth, which may be used for purposes for which
ordinary velvets, velveteens and plushes having a face or pile on one side only can
not be used and may also be used for some of the purposes for which ordinary
velvets, velveteens and plushes are used.
I accomplish the object of my invention by floating the weft over and under the
warp so as to produce races on both sides of the cloth instead of on one side only
of the cloth as has hitherto been customary. The races on both sides of the fabric
when cut form a pile or face so that a fabric having a pile or face on each side is
produced. My invention is applicable to fabrics of all lengths of floating weft-
threads and to all modifications of such fabrics and to all the combinations of warp
and weft by means of which velvets, velveteens and plushes can be manufactured
as will be made apparent by the description following in which reference is made
to the diagrams in the accompanying drawing.
My invention being applicable to all weaves or combinations of warp and weft,
by means of which velvets, velveteens and plushes can be manufactured it is
obviously impossible for me to illustrate or describe all the ways in which my
invention may be employed, I have therefore in the accompanying drawing simply
furnished diagrams or drafts sufficient to indicate the manner in which my inven-
tion may be carried into effect. In the said drawing Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 7 are
drafts of fabrics showing some of the modes in which the weft and warp may be
combined in fabrics manufactured according to my invention and Fig. 6 shows
the draft Fig. 5 as put into a condensed form for use by the weaver. The
diagrams a, b, c, d, e and fillustrate the manner in which the successive "picks" or
D

page_text: weft-threads forming the face or pile surfaces in the design or draft shown in
Fig. 1 are caused to pass over and under the warp-threads with which they are
interwoven. In Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 the horizontal lines indicate the warp-
threads, and the vertical lines indicate the weft-threads and at each place where
the crossing of the weft and warp is marked with a dash it is to indicate that at
such place the warp-thread is raised to allow the weft to be passed beneath it.
In the pattern illustrated in the diagram Fig. 1, six ends or warp threads, and
fourteen picks are employed. The first pick is a binder pick and passes over one
warp-thread under one, over one and under one and so on alternately over and
under the adjacent warp-threads. The second pick is a face pick for the face which
is uppermost when the fabric is being woven and floats or passes over four warp-
threads, then under one and over one as is indicated in the diagram marked (a).
The third pick is a face pick for the face which is underneath when the fabric is
being woven and passes under one warp-thread, over one and then floats or passes
under four as is indicated in the diagrain marked (b). The fourth pick is a face
pick for the face which is uppermost when the fabric is being woven and passes
over two warp-threads, under one and then floats or passes over three as is
indicated in the diagram marked (c). The fifth pick is a face pick for the face
which is underneath when the fabric is being woven and passes under five warp-
threads and then over one as is indicated in the diagram marked (d). The sixth
pick is a face pick for the face which is uppermost when the fabric is being woven
and passes under one warp-thread, and then floats or passes over five as is indicated
in the diagramı marked (e). The seventh pick is a face pick for the face
which is underneath when the fabric is being woven, and floats or passes under
three warp-threads, then over one and under two as is indicated in the diagram
marked (f). The eighth pick is a binding pick and passes under one warp-thread,
over one, under one, over one, under one and over one. The ninth pick is similar
to the second, the tenth pick is similar to the third, the eleventh pick is similar to
the fourth, the twelfth pick is similar to the fifth, the thirteenth pick is similar to
the sixth, and the fourteenth pick is similar to the seventh. In this pattern the
face picks of the face which is uppermost when the fabric is being woven float or
pass over five warp-threads and the face picks of the face which is underneath
when the fabric is being woven float or pass under five warp-threads.
In the pattern illustrated in the diagram Fig. 2, I use eight ends or warp-threads,
and eighteen picks to the "round" and this pattern is similar to that illustrated in
Fig. 1 except in that the face picks for the face which is uppermost when the
fabric is being woven float or pass over seven ends or warp-threads and the face
picks for the face which is underneath when the fabric is being woven float or pass
under seven warp-threads or ends and in that the binding picks occur at every
ninth pick instead of at every seventh as in the case of the pattern illustrated in
Fig. 1.
In the pattern illustrated in the diagram Fig. 3 my invention is shown as applied
to a cloth of ten ends or warp-threads, in which there are eighty picks to the round.
In this cloth the face picks for the face which is uppermost when the cloth is being
woven float or pass over nine warp-threads, and the face picks for the face which
is underneath when the cloth is being woven, float under nine warp threads and the
binding picks occur at every eighth pick.
In the pattern illustrated in the diagram Fig. 4, my invention is shown as applied
to a cloth or fabric in which I use twelve ends or warp-threads and fourteen picks
to the pattern. The face picks for the face which is uppermost when the cloth or
fabric is being woven float over eleven warp-threads and the face picks for the face
which is underneath when the cloth or fabric is being woven float or pass under
eleven warp-threads. The binding picks occur, as in the pattern illustrated in the
diagram Fig. 1, at every seventh pick.
In the pattern illustrated in the diagram Fig. 5, my invention is shown as applied
to a cloth or fabric in which forty ends or warp-threads are employed in the
pattern and in which eighteen picks of weft occur in each repetition of the pattern.

page_text: The face picks for the face which is uppermost when the cloth is being woven
float or pass over thirty-seven ends or warp-threads and then under one, over one
and under one and the face picks for the face which is underneath when the cloth
is being woven float or pass under thirty-seven ends or warp-threads over one,
under one and over one. The binding picks occur at every ninth pick as in the
case of the pattern illustrated in Fig. 2. In this pattern the pile or face is inter-
woven with warp-threads in such a manner that what is known as a fast pile is
produced. The diagram Fig. 6 is the same as the diagram Fig. 5 but is condensed
for the weaver's use and shows that the first, seventh, ninth, eleventh, seventeenth,
nineteenth, twenty-first, twenty-seventh, twenty-ninth, thirty-first, thirty-seventh,
and thirty-ninth ends or warp-threads may be drawn in one shaft of the healds or
other devices employed to cause or control the movements of the warp-threads
during the weaving, that the second, fourth, sixth, twelfth, fourteenth, sixteenth,
twenty-second, twenty-fourth, twenty-sixth, thirty-second, thirty-fourth and thirty-
sixth warp-threads may be drawn into a second shaft, that the third and fifth ends
may be drawn into a third shaft, the eighth and tenth ends in a fourth, the
thirteenth and fifteenth ends in a fifth, the eighteenth and twentieth ends in a
sixth, the twenty-third and twenty-fifth ends in a seventh, the twenty-eighth and
thirtieth ends in an eighth, the thirty-third and thirty-fifth ends in a ninth, the
thirty-eighth and fortieth ends in a tenth.
In the pattern illustrated in the diagram Fig. 7, my invention is shewn as applied
to a cloth or fabric in which no picks intended merely to bind the cloth or fabric
together are employed, the binding of the warp-threads together being accom-
plished by the weft-threads to form the pile being interwoven with the warp-threads
in such a manner that a fast pile will be produced. In the pattern illustrated in
the diagram Fig. 7 eight warp-threads and twelve picks are employed. The first,
third, fifth, seventh, ninth and eleventh picks are face picks for the face of the
fabric which is uppermost while such fabric is being woven and the second, fourth,
sixth, eighth, tenth and twelfth picks are face picks for the face of the fabric which
is underneath when the fabric is being woven. The first pick passes over five
warp-threads, under one, over one, and under one. The second pick passes under
one warp-thread, over one, under one, over one, and under four. The third pick
passes over three warp-threads under one, over one, under one and over two. The
fourth pick passes under three warp-threads, over one, under one, over one and
under two. The fifth pick passes over one warp-thread under one, over one, under
one and over four. The sixth pick passes under five warp threads over one, under
one, and over one. The seventh pick passes over four warp-threads, under one,
over one, under one and over one. The eighth pick passes over one warp thread,
under one, over one, and under five. The ninth pick passes over two warp-threads,
under one, over one, under one, and over three. The tenth pick passes under two
warp-threads, over one, under one, over one, and under three. The eleventh pick
passes under one warp-thread, over one, under one, and over five. The twelfth
pick passes under four warp-threads, over one, under one, over one and under one.
The various designs shown in the diagrams forming the accompanying drawing
are all constructed on one principle, the differences between the designs being the
variations in the length of the floats and the changes in the number of warp-threads
and picks or weft-threads which result from the said variations in the lengths of the
floats.
The designs shown in the diagrams forming the accompanying drawing serve to
indicate the manner in which my invention may be performed but it will be evident
to any person conversant with weaving that the fabrics manufactured according
to my invention may be woven (1), with any practicable number of ends or
warp-threads to the pattern and any lengths of float for the face ends of
either face of the fabric (2) without binding picks or with any arrangement
of binding picks for although in order to avoid unnecessary multiplication
of the diagrams I have in the diagrams in which binding picks are shown
only shown cloths with those binding picks which constitute what in ordinary

page_text: velvets, velveteens and plushes is known as the plain or calico back, my invention
can be woven with any forms of binding picks such as constitute what are known
in ordinary velvets, velveteens and plushes as plain, ribbed or twilled backs or
indeed with any other form of binder by which velvets, velveteens and plushes can
be made (3) with any number of face picks between the binding picks which is
practicable, (4) with any arrangement of face picks whether placed alternately on
each side of the cloth or fabric or distributed regularly or irregularly upon the two
faces of the cloth or fabric, by means of which after the face picks have been cut
a velvet velveteen or plush having a pile surface upon each side of the cloth or
fabric may be produced, (5) with the face ends or pile weft-threads caused to float
over or be interwoven with the warp-threads in any manner either so as to produce
a plain pile as in the diagrams Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4 or so as to produce a fast pile as
in the diagrams Figs. 5 and 6 or otherwise and (6) with similar or differing faces
on the two sides of the cloth or fabric. The fabrics produced according to my
invention may have the pile cut, and finished on both sides of the fabric in any
manner which may be suitable.
It follows from the nature of my invention that although in order to avoid
unnecessary multiplication of diagrams I have only shown my invention as applied
to certain cloths while it may be applied to any method by which velvets,
velveteens and plushes can be produced I do not confine myself to the examples
herein before described and illustrated in the accompanying diagrams for instance
the weft-threads or some of them might be caused to float on both sides of the cloth
or fabric although as this method would cause the pattern to require a greater
number of warp-threads for each repetition of the pattern I would not recommend
that my invention should be applied in this manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
A velvet, velveteen or plush in which the weft is caused to float on both sides of
the fabric or cloth so as to form races which may be cut in order that a face or pile
may be formed on both sides of such velvet, velveteen or plush substantially as
hereinbefore described.
Dated this Twenty-third day of May 1892.