IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES AND THE LIKE to be as follows:
Year: 1884

page_text: We JOHN JAMES GASCOINE of N° 5 Newtown Street Leicester Boot and Shoe
Manufacturer and GEORGE APPELBEE ROYCE of West Leigh Road Leicester Shoe
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES AND THE LIKE to be as follows:-
"
We first take an upper cut and prepared in the ordinary way and turn it inside
out.
We then take a piece of light soft leather or cloth or other suitable material of
convenient shape and size governed by the shape and size the boot is to be when
completed. This piece we call the centre-piece.
We then sew or fell together the edge of the centre piece and the bottom edge
of the outside of the upper, leaving the lining of the upper free and for the present
untouched.
We next turn the whole right side outward.
The stiffener made of leather or other suitable material is next put in and we
adjust the lining securing the same in its proper place by the use of paste or
otherwise.
This being done we prepare a very light inner sole of leather or other suitable
material of the same shape as for an ordinary boot but very much lighter in
substance and fix it say with a little paste, in its proper position inside the partly
made boot.
The thus partly made boot is placed upon an expanding last and the latter so
adjusted that it fills out the boot to the required size and shape.
The edge of the stiffener is then beaten into its proper place with gentle blows
care being taken not to injure the seam at tho edge of the centre piece.
The outer sole is then adjusted and fixed in the manner now practised in making
an ordinary boot.
The last may now be unscrewed and the boot taken off it and completed in the
ordinary way.

page_text: We JOHN JAMES GASCOINE of N° 5 Newtown Street Leicester Boot and Shoe
Manufacturer and GEORGE APPLEBEE ROYCE, of West Leigh Road Leicester Shoe
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES AND THE LIKE" and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
In the accompanying Drawings Figure 1 is an elevation of the upper and centre
piece united. Figure 2 is a view of part of the same more nearly finished and
Figure 3 shows the upper and centre piece completely united and ready for the
Bole &c.
In carrying this Invention into practice we take an "upper" cut and prepared
in the ordinary way and turn it inside out. We then take a piece of light soft
leather, cloth or other suitable material of proper size and shape for the boot or
shoe when completed-This piece we call the centre piece. In Figure 1 A is the
upper (wrong side out) and B the centre piece; these are sewn or felled together
by their edges as shown in Figure 1ª which is a section through both A¹ being
the right side of the upper which is still wrong side out and A² the line of stitches.
The lining of the upper is for the present left free and untouched.
The upper and centre pieco having been sewn together all round they form a
soft flexible bag which is easily turned by the fingers; this operation is next
performed and for the rest of the process the flexible bag is right side out as in
Figure 3.
The back part of the lining C being left standing up as shown in Figure 2 the
ordinary stiffener D shown in dotted lines in Figures 2 and 3 made of leather or
other material is placed in position and secured by paste or equivalent the lining C
is next turned down inside the bag is tacked down with paste or equivalent so as
to hold it in place while the boot or shoe is completed. The complete bag now
appears as in Figure 3 and is so soft and flexible that in the case of thin shoes and
the like it can be crumpled up in the hand with the greatest ease.
We now prepare a very light inner sole of leather or other suitable material of
the same shape as for an ordinary boot being very much lighter in substance; this
is fixed inside the bag with a little paste as before.
The shoo so far completed is now placed on an expanding last which is adjusted
so as to fill out the shoe to the required size and shape and the stiffener is beaten
into its proper place with gentle blows; care being taken not to injure the seam at
the edge of the centre piece. The outer sole is now adjusted and sewn on in the
ordinary manner.
The centre piece B is kept somewhat smaller than the outer sole so that the
stitches which attach the sole may pass through the upper just clear of the centre
piece all round.
By this Invention the cost of the boot or shoe is reduced, great flexibility and
lightness are obtained and no nails or packing being used in the manufacture there
are none to hurt the foot of the wearer.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is
.
1. The centre piece B substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
2. The manufacture of a boot or shoe without the ordinary stiff insole whereby

page_text: 3. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the construction of the flexible bag
substantially as set forth.
4. The complete process for making boots or shoes consisting of sewing the
centre piece to the reversed upper turning the upper right side out and inserting
the stiffener adjusting and securing the lining, inserting the light inner sole
shaping the flexible bag upon the expanding last and sewing on the sole and
finishing in the ordinary manner the whole substantially as set forth.
2
L
JNO. J. GASCOINE.
GEORGE A. ROYCE.