Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Pile Fabrics.
Year: 1899

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Pile Fabrics.
We, JOSÉ REIXACH, a Managing Director of Lister & Company, Limited, of
Manningham Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, and HERBERT SCOTT, of
the same address, Manufacturers' Assistant, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is first to improve the manufacture of figured
warp pile tabrics woven face to face in which the design or figure is formed by
cut and uncut pile and the back ground by the ground warp and weft without
pile.
Hitherto it has been necessary to weave in the single piece wire loom, that
class of warp pile fabrics in which the figure is formed by a cut pile, a looped
pile, and a plain ground without pile: two wires being used one for the cut and
one for the uncut pile and a creel on which are mounted bobbins carrying the
separate threads; it has been found impossible to weave such fabrics face to face
owing chiefly to the loops in the woven cloth standing higher than the cut pile.
and so preventing the proper finishing process; and also on account of the loops'
being irregular in height giving a rough appearance to the fabric.
By the present invention we obtain a cut pile which is longer and stands
higher than the loops, the loops being formed of a regular and even length.
In Patent No. 1651288 there is described a <
method of producing frisé effects
in double woven velvet goods by putting in a special pick which we term a
frisé pick which does not bind into the ground tissues and which is afterwards
withdrawn previous to cutting the fabrics apart thereby forming the frisé
knobs."
In one of our improved methods of weaving a similar pick is employed in the
following manner:-
There are 2 pile threads in each dent or split of the reed which weave alter-
nately when making frisé or looped pile the pile thread which had last been
bound into the top piece is passed round the frisé pick and then back to the top
piece and the second pile thread which had last been bound in to the bottom
piece is passed round the frisé pick and returned to the bottom piece; when
next pile is formed after 3 picks tyeing in to the grounds the 1st and 2nd pile
threads which last made loops are passed to the back of the cloth for two picks
while the 3rd and 4th pile threads in the next dent form pile loops, or instead of
the 1st and 2nd pile threads floating at the back they may work with the 3rd and
4th and all the pile threads make loops together thus giving a denser terry pile
when desired, each thread forming a loop after being tied in to the ground by
3 picks.
When making cut pile the 1st thread after tyeing in to the top piece is passed
under the next frisé pick whilst the 2nd thread after binding in the bottom
piece is passed over the same frisé pick, these two threads continue to float
between the 2 pieces while the 3rd and 4th threads are tied into the grounds
for 3 picks.
The 1st thread is passed above the next frisé pick and then tied in to the

page_text: bottom piece while the 2nd thread is passed under the same frisé pick and
then tied in to the top piece.
The 3rd and 4th pile threads in the next dent are in the same manner tied
round the frisé picks but oppositely to the 1st and 2nd threads. If wires were
inserted between the two pieces in place of the frisé picks, the pile threads
would be passed round them in the same way and give the same result.
It will thus be seen that each pile thread in crossing from one piece to the
other has to pass round two frisé picks in opposite directions before being tied in
to the other piece; this has the effect of holding the frisé pick firm between the
two pieces, and so forms regular and even loops and gives as compared to the
frisé loops a gain in length of pile corresponding to the distance between the
frisé picks so that when cut the pile is longer than and stands above the loops,
the frisé picks are withdrawn before the piece is cut; when it is desired to form
the plain ground without pile, the pile threads may be floated over or tied into
the ground in any suitable manner: an additional warp, not used for making pile,
may also be employed for the purpose: two lengths of cut pile may be obtained
by tyeing in certain of the pile threads in any ordinary manner where so desired.
When the cloth is of all pile and the figure obtained by looped and cut pile
the pile may be delivered to the piece by a roller revolving at the desired speed
in any well known manner the threads for this purpose being wrapped on a beam
in the usual way: where plain ground without pile is to be introduced into the
cloth the pile threads must be wound on separate bobbins and mounted on a
creel.
By another method we obtain a figured pile fabric without frisé loops woven
face to face by means of pile to form the design and an ornamental ground with-
out pile.
The ground is caused by some of the picks of weft floating over that
part of the face of the cloth where there is no pile, these weft floats being tied
into the grounds of the top and bottom pieces in various places, to form any
small figure or design, by means of the pile threads which not being required in
these places to make pile are caused to pass round these picks and tie them to
the grounds.
Hitherto in wire loom woven goods of this description the weft float has been
tied in by the ground warps which necessitated working the ground warps by the
jacquard, in the double loom it is found necessary to work the ground warps by
tappets in order to force the pieces apart to get the length of pile, this we are
able to do according to our invention by tying the weft float threads with the
pile threads as described.
In Patent No. 106751 granted to Mullers and Spindler there is described a
method of weaving pile fabrics face to face in which every third pick is taken
on the inner face or faces and not bound by the ground warps; we employ this
weave in our invention and use for the two ground or body picks of weft a common
material such as cotton and for the third pick which is not bound we use silk or
other bright material and cause this pick to be floated and tied in by the jacquard
pile threads in such a manner as to give an ornamental figured effect.
The different wefts are thrown by a loom with a change box at one side of the
loom and a fixed box at the other as follows. The ground shuttle throws first a
pick in the top and then a pick in the bottom cloth, the box is then changed and
the silk shuttle throws one floating pick on the face of the top and then one on
the face of the bottom piece, the box is now changed back again and the ground
shuttle is thrown for the next 4 picks.
Whatever well
Other weaves than the one described in 106751 may be used
known weave may be used a certain proportion of the picks must be thrown
on the inner face of each piece and only held to the ground by the pile threads.
these picks may be of the same material as the ground picks or they may be of
a different material, in which case they must be thrown by a change box
mechanism.

page_text: By another method we obtain a figured pile fabric, woven face to face, without
frisé loops by means of pile and ground only. We employ an additional warp
raised and depressed by certain needles of the jacquard to float over the ground
on the face of the top and bottom piece where no pile is formed, the pile forming
threads are also worked by other needles of the jacquard and when not employed
in making pile are floated over the grounds along with the additional warp
threads. The ground warps for the top and bottom pieces are worked by tappets
in the usual manner. The float warp is wrapped on a beam and consists by
preference of double threads in each mail or eye of the harness, and two eyes
are connected to one needle of the jacquard and worked simultaneously by it; by
this means a floating figured ground is obtained with the least possible number of
extra needles in the jacquard machine.
"
The pile is tied in with 3 picks of weft by what is known as the taffeta
weave and the additional float warp may take the place of one of the usual ground
warps. In each dent or split there are 1 pile thread 1 double thread float warp
for the top and 1 double thread float for the bottom piece all worked by the
jacquard and 1 single ground thread for the top and 1 for the bottom piece
worked by tappets in the usual way or in some cases two single ground threads
for the top and two for the bottom piece.
When pile is being formed the floating ground warps are employed to weave
in the grounds of the top and bottom pieces and so strengthen the grounds and
compel the pile tufts to stand upright thus giving an even appearance to the
surface of the pile.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Pile Fabrics.
We, JOSE REIXACH, a Managing Director of Lister & Company, Limited, of
Manningham Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, and HERBERT SCorr, of
the same address, Manufacturers' Assistant, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The object of this invention is first to improve the manufacture of figured
warp pile fabrics woven face to face in which the design or figure is formed by
cut and uncut pile and the back ground by the ground warp and weft without
pile.
Hitherto it has been necessary to weave in the single piece wire loom, that
class of warp pile fabrics in which the figure is formed by a cut pile, a looped
pile, and a plain ground without pile; two wires being used one for the cut and
one for the uncut pile and a creel on which are mounted bobbins carrying the
separate threads, it has been found impossible to weave such fabrics face to face
owing chiefly to the loops in the woven cloth standing higher than the cut pile
and so preventing the proper finishing process, and also on account of the loops
being irregular in height giving a rough appearance to the fabric.
By the present invention we obtain a cut pile which is longer and stands
bigher than the loops, the loops being formed of a regular and even length.
In Patent No. 1651288 there is described a method of producing frisé effects.

page_text: in double woven velvet goods by putting in a special pick which we term a
frisé pick which does not bind into the ground tissues and which is afterwards
withdrawn previous to cutting the fabrics apart thereby forming the frisé
knobs.
In one of our improved methods of weaving a similar pick is employed in the
following manner:
There are pile threads in each dent or split of the reed which weave alter-
nately. When making frisé or looped pile the pile thread which had last been
bound into the top piece is passed round the frisé pick and then back to the top
piece and the second pile thread which had last been bound in to the bottom
piece is passed round the frisé pick and returned to the bottom piece; when
next pile is formed after 3 picks tyeing in to the grounds the 1st and 2nd pile
threads which last made loops are passed to the back of the cloth for two picks
while the 3rd and 4th pile threads in the next dent form pile loops, or instead of
the 1st and 2nd pile threads floating at the back they may work with the 3rd and
4th and all the pile threads make loops together thus giving a denser terry pile
when desired, each thread forming a loop after being tied in to the ground by
3 picks.
When making cut pile the 1st thread after tyeing in to the top piece is passed
under the next frisé pick whilst the 2nd thread after binding in the bottom
piece is passed over the same frisé pick, these two threads continue to float
between the 2 pieces while the 3rd and 4th threads are tied into the grounds
for 3 picks.
The 1st thread is passed above the next frisé pick and then tied in to the
bottom piece while the 2nd thread is passed under the same frisé pick and
then tied in to the top piece.
The 3rd and 4th pile threads in the next dent are in the same manner tied
round the frisé picks but oppositely to the 1st and 2nd threads. If wires were
inserted between the two pieces in place of the frisé picks, the pile threads
would be passed round them in the same way and give the same result.
It will thus be seen that each pile thread in crossing from one piece to the
other has to pass round two frisé picks in opposite directions before being tied in
to the other piece; this has the effect of holding the frisé pick firm between the
two pieces, and so forms regular and even loops and gives as compared to the
frisé loops a gain in length of pile corresponding to the distance between the
frisé picks so that when cut the pile is longer than and stands above the loops,
the frisé picks are withdrawn before the piece is cut. When it is desired to form
the plain ground without pile, the pile threads may be floated over or tied into
the ground in any suitable manner; an additional warp not used for making pile,
may also be employed for the purpose-two lengths of cut pile may be obtained
by tyeing in certain of the pile threads in any ordinary manner where so desired.
When the cloth is of all pile and the figure obtained by looped and cut pile
the pile may be delivered to the piece by a roller revolving at the desired speed
in any well known manner the threads for this purpose being wrapped on a beam
in the usual way: where plain ground without pile is to be introduced into the
cloth the pile threads must be wound on separate bobbins and mounted on a
creel.
Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 are longitudinal sections of the first of our improved
methods illustrating the weaving of figured pile fabrics face to face with loop
pile, cut pile, and ground without pile as above described.
Figure 1 represents the method of making frisé or looped pile, the 1st pile
thread A after being bound into the top piece is passed round the frisé pick B
and then back to the top piece; the 2nd pile thread C after being bound into the
Bottom piece
passed round the same frisé pick B and then back to the bottom
piece. When next pile loops are formed after A and C have been bound into
the top and bottom pieces by the picks of weft 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, the pile threads D

page_text: and E, shewn by the dotted lines, lying in the adjacent dent make loops in
the same manner while the pile threads A and C pass to the back of the top and
bottom pieces round the picks 3, 7, and 6, 10.
As represented in Figure 2 the first and second pile threads A, C instead of
passing to the back round the picks 3, 7 and 6, 10 work with the 3rd and 4th pile
threads D and E which are in the adjacent dent and all the pile threads make
loops together the loops may be formed in parts of the design as shewn in
Figure 1, and in other parts as shewn in Figure 2.
Figures 3 and 4 shew the method of making cut pile. The first pile thread A
after being tied into the top piece is passed under the frisé pick B over the
frisé pick F and then is tied in to the bottom piece by the picks 10, 11, 12, the
second pile thread C which lies in the same dent as A is tied over the same frisé
picks but oppositely to A see Figure 4; the third and fourth pile threads D, E,
which are in the adjacent dent are tied into the grounds by the picks 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,
then oppositely round the frisé picks F and G and then again are tied into the
grounds by the picks 13 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, as shewn by the dotted lines in
Figure 4. The ground warps are not shewn in the diagrains.
The frisé picks B, F, G, H are withdrawn and the pieces are then cut asunder
in any well known manner when the cut pile threads are longer than the pile
loops by the distance between the frisé picks B and F and between G and H.
When making plain ground without pile two of the pile threads say C and D)
are floated over the face of the ground of the top piece and the other two say A, E,
are floated over the face of the ground of the bottom piece see Figure 3; in this
way a small ornamental figured effect may be produced on the grounds of the
two pieces.
By another method we obtain a figured pile, fabric without frisé loops woven
face to face by means of pile to form the design and an ornamental ground
without pile. The ground is caused by some of the picks of weft floating over that
part of the face of the cloth where there is no pile, these weft floats being tied
into the grounds of the top and bottom pieces in various places, to form any
small figure or design, by means of the pile threads which not being required in
these places to make pile are caused to pass round these picks and tie them to
the grounds.
Hitherto in wire loom woven goods of this description the weft float has been
tied in by the ground warps which necessitated working the ground warps by the
jacquard, in the double loom it is found necessary to work the ground warps by
tappets in order to force the pieces apart to get the length of pile, this we are
able to do according to our invention by tyeing the weft float threads with the
pile threads as described.
In Patent No. 106751 granted to Mullers and Spindler there is described a
method of weaving pile fabrics face to face in which every third pick is taken
on the inner face or faces and not bound by the ground warps; we employ this
weave in our invention and use for the two ground or body picks of weft a common
material such as cotton and for the third pick which is not bound we use silk or
other bright material and cause this pick to be floated and tied in by the jacquard
pile threads in such a manner as to give an ornamental figured effect.
The different wefts are thrown by a loom with a change box at one side of the
loom and a fixed box at the other as follows:-The ground shuttle throws first a
pick in the top and then a pick in the bottom cloth, the box is then changed and
the silk shuttle throws one floating pick on the face of the top and then one on
the face of the bottom piece, the box is now changed back again and the groun:]
shuttle is thrown for the next 4 picks.
Other weaves than the one described in 1067591 may be used. Whatever well
known weave may be used a certain proportion of the picks must be thrown
on the inner face of each piece and only held to the ground by the pile threads.
these picks may be of the same material as the ground picks or they may be of
•

page_text: a merent material, in which case they must be thrown by a change box
mechanism.
The above described method of weaving figured pile fabrics without loops
is illustrated in the diagram Figure 5.
K and M are the pile threads which are tied in when making pile as described
in Patent No. 10675 of 1891 and are worked by a jacquard machine of the usual
type.
and are the ground warp threads of the top piece worked by tappets
which are so arranged as to strain the pieces apart to obtain the desired length
of pile, the ground warp threads of the bottom piece are omitted in the drawing
for the sake of clearness.
25, 27, 31, 33, and 28, 30, 34, 36 are the ground weft picks which are enclosed
by the ground warps of the top and bottom pieces; 26, 32, 29 and 35 are the
face picks of weft which are not enclosed by the ground warps but are held to
the grounds by the pile threads only these face wefts may be composed of silk or
other bright material and may consist of two or more threads as shewn at 37
and 38.
When ground without pile is being made the face wefts are tied in to form a
small ornamental figure in the grounds by means of the pile threads K and M
as shewn at 37 and 39 where the pile thread K ties the face wefts 37, 39 to the
top piece and M ties the face wefts 371, 39' to the bottom piece, when not so
tied in they float over the grounds as shewn at 38, 40, 38', 40₁ and the floats can
be so disposed as to produce any desired pattern.
This method of producing small ornamental figures over the surface of the
plain ground can also be used in conjunction with the formation of fabrics as
herein before first described partly of looped pile, partly of cut pile and partly
ground.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. Figured pile fabrics woven double face to face and formed partly of cut
pile and partly of looped pile shorter than the cut pile substantially as herein
before described.
2. Figured pile fabrics woven double face to face and formed partly of cut pile,
partly of looped pile shorter than the cut pile and partly of ground without pile
substantially as herein before described.
3. Figured pile fabrics woven double face to face and formed partly of cut pile,
partly of looped pile shorter than the cut pile and partly of ground without
pile and in which the portions of ground which have no pile upon them have
the pile threads floated over them to produce any desired pattern.
4. The production of figured pile fabrics woven double face to face substantially
as herein before described and illustrated at Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4.
5. The method of weaving figured pile fabrics double and face to face and
formed partly of cut pile and partly of looped pile shorter than the cut pile
or partly of cut pile partly of looped pile shorter than the cut pile
and partly of ground without pile in which the looped pile is formed around
frisé picks or wires and the pile warps where cut pile is to be formed are caused
when passing across from one piece to the other to pass around two frisé picks
or wires in opposite directions.
6. The method of weaving figured pile fabrics double and face to face formed
partly of cut pile and partly of looped pile shorter than the cut pile or partly
of cut pile, partly of looped pile shorter than the cut pile and partly of ground
without pile in which where looped pile is to be formed pile warps are made
to form loops over frisé picks or wires and where cut pile is to be formed are
made when crossing from one piece to the other to pass around two frisé picks

page_text: or wires in opposite directions and in which pile warps cross simultaneously from
the top and bottom pieces to make cut pile, those passing up from the bottom
piece passing over a frisé pick and those descending from the top piece below it
and at the next frisé pick those which passed below the first frisé pick pass above
the second and vice versa and in which alternate pile warps are tied in and crossed
at alternate times.
7. The production of figured pile fabrics woven double face to face substantially
as hereinbefore described and illustrated at Figure 5.
8. Figured pile fabrics woven double face to face and formed partly of cut pile
or of cut pile and looped pile and partly of ground without pile and in which
the portions of ground which have no pile upon them have some of the weft
threads floated over them to produce patterns such floated wefts being tied in at
intervals by the pile warps only.