IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TROWSERS
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas William Couldery, of Old Kent Road, in
the County of Surrey, Tailor, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF TROWSERS."
Sealed the 25th June 1867, and dated the 31st December 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas William Couldery
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 31st December 1866.
I, THOMAS WILLIAM COULDERY, of Old Kent Road, in the County of Surrey,
Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TROWSERS," to be as follows:—
This Invention consists in the substitution of leather, leather cloth, or other
similar material for cloth, in two parts of the trowsers, namely the fly
and the waistbands, and in the use of studs in the place of brace buttons.
By substituting a leather fly with button holes punched out for one made
of cloth and worked with button holes a great amount of time in manu-
facture is saved, and where good leather is used greater durability is gained.
The leather waistband is made in the following manner :-A strip of leather
doubled in balf is sewn to the top of the trowsers with the double edge upwards
and the cloth between the two leathers; through the waistband button
holes are punched in the same position as the brace buttons would fall;
studs of a proper size and shape are inserted through these holes, and serve
as brace buttons. The top hole of the fly will be fastened with a stud in
the same manner. In some cases this leather waistband will be made of
two leathers of different kinds or colors sewn at the top edge.
edge. Where

page_text: great strength is required pieces of extra stout leather will be fastened under
each brace stud, well secured to the trowsers, and sewn in with the band.
The advantages that trowsers made by this method will possess over those
made in the ordinary way are, firstly, the fly holes will be more durable
and in case of repair being wanted a new fly will be inexpensive and quickly
put in. Secondly, the brace buttons cannot be pulled off; but should a stud
fall out and be lost it can be replaced in a moment. Thirdly, a firm
unyielding waistband, that will not break nor crease down should the trowsers
be worn without braces. Fourthly, economy in manufacture the following
processes being dispensed with; 1, making and felling fly; 2, working button
holes in fly; 3, basting in waistband, canvas, and button stays; 4, stitching
button stays; 5, binding tops; 6, fastening top of pockets to waistband
canvas; 7, basting in and felling waistband lining; 8, working top button
hole; 9, sewing on brace buttons; 10, pressing waistbands.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas William Couldery in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 29th June 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
WILLIAM COULDERY, of Old Kent Road, in the County of Surrey, Tailor, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the thirtieth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her Heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Thomas William Couldery, Her special licence that I, the said
Thomas William Couldery, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said Thomas William Couldery, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time
to time, and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man,
an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TROWSERS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Thomas William Couldery, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be

page_text: performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas William Couldery, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement in writing, and on reference to the accompanying
Sheet of Drawings, that is to say :-
This Invention consists in the substitution of leather, leather cloth, or other
similar material for cloth, in a certain part of the trowsers namely, the
waistband, and in the use of studs in the place of brace buttons.
I may here remark that in the Provisional Specification which was filed
with my petition for Letters Patent my Invention was also stated to consist
in the substitution of leather or other similar material for cloth in the "fly,"
but since filing my said Provisional Specification I have been informed that
this part of my Invention is not new, I am therefore desirous of disclaiming,
and I do hereby disclaim the leather fly as part of my Invention, although
I prefer to use leather in lieu of cloth in that part also. By substituting
a leather fly with button holes punched out for one made of cloth, and worked
with button holes a great amount of time in manufacture is saved, and where
good leather is used great durability is gained.
Such being the nature and object of my said Invention for "Improvements
in the Manufacture of Trowsers," I will now proceed to describe more in
detail the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried
into practical effect; and in order that the same may be distinctly understood
I have annexed hereunto a Sheet of Drawings illustrative thereof, and have
marked the same with figures and letters of reference corresponding with
those in the following explanation thereof, that is to say :-
Figure 1 in the annexed Drawing represents the upper part of a pair of
trowsers, showing the application of my improved waistband and studs thereto,
and Figure 2 is an inside view of the same.
The leather waistband is made in the following manner :-A strip of leather
a, a, doubled in half is sewn to the top of the trowsers with the doubled
edge upwards and the cloth between the two leathers. Through the waist
band button holes b, b, are punched in the same position as the brace buttons
would fall; studs c, c, of a proper size and shape are inserted through these
holes, and serve as brace buttons. The top hole d of the fly will be fastened
with a stud in the same manner. In some cases this leather waistband will
be made of two leathers of different kinds or colors sewn at the top edge.

page_text: Where great strength is required pieces of extra stout leather will be fastened
under each brace stud, well secured to the trowsers and sewn in with the band.
The fly is made of a single piece of leather e, e, stitched to the cloth, as shewn
in Figure 2, and punched with button holes f, f, corresponding with the
ordinary buttons on the other side.
The advantages that trowsers made by this methed will possess over those
made in the ordinary way are, firstly, the button holes will be more durable,
and in case of repair being wanted a new waistband or fly will be inexpensive
and quickly put on. Secondly, the brace buttons cannot be pulled off, but
should a stud fall out and be lost, it can be replaced in a moment. Thirdly,
a firm unyielding waistband that will not break nor crease down, should the
trowsers be worn without braces. Fourthly, economy in manufacture,
the following processes being dispensed with, 1, making and felling fly;
2, working button holes in fly; 3, basting in waistband canvas and button
stays; 4, stitching button stays; 5, binding tops; 6, fastening top of pockets
to waistband canvas; 7, basting in and felling waistband lining; 8, working
the button holes; 9, sewing on brace buttons; 10, pressing waistbands.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention for
"Improvements in the Manufacture of Trowsers," together with the manner
in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into practical
effect, I would remark in conclusion that I claim as my Invention the manu-
facture of the waistbands of trowsers of leather, leather cloth, or other similar
material instead of cloth; and, secondly, the use of studs in lien of the brace
buttons thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas William Couldery, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-eight day of June, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
THOMAS WILLIAM COULDERY. (L.S.)
Witness,
BRISTOW HUNT,
Solicitor and Patent Agent,
1, Serle Street,
Lincoln's Inn.