Improvements in Bindings or Trimmings for Skirts and other Garments.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Jan., 1899
Complete Specification Left, 7th Oct., 1899-Accepted, 2nd Dec., 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Bindings or Trimmings for Skirts and other
Garments.
We, CHARLES MARX, of The Lodge, Victoria Park, Manchester, Merchant, and
ARTHUR RALPH FISH, of Moor Park Villa, Preston, Manager, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The improvements relate to that class of skirt bindings or trimmings in which
a portion is composed of cut pile, and have for object the manufacture of the
same in such manner that they became more conformable to the curve of the
skirt or dress to which they are applied and otherwise more efficient than at
present obtains in bindings of a similar character.
To accomplish this and to effect our improvements, we weave a fabric with
alternate longitudinal stripes of plain, twill, mat or other ground weaving; and
cord, velvet, plush or other cut pile weaving, but in a manner to be hereinafter
described.
When weaving the stripes of pile fabric we prefer to insert therein a cord
warp, on each or one side of which the pile is cut, to facilitate the subsequent
even turning over or doubling of the pile portion to form the binding or trim-
ming. In all cases we arrange the warp yarns in the reed, or the actuation
thereof, so as to obtain differential tightnesses during the weaving of each stripe
forming a binding.
The object of this differential weaving is to cause the strips or ribbons of bind-
ing or trimming, formed by longitudinally cutting or dividing the fabric between
each stripe, to take a tendency to curve at one edge thereof, so as to enable the
finished binding to more readily and correctly conform to the curve of the gar-
ment to which it is applied.
By leaving one or more empty dents on one side of the stripe of ground
weaving, we facilitate the subsequent division of the strips into bindings. The
stripes are cut or divided longitudinally by any suitable means after the pile of
the cloth has been cut and the cloth finished; but, in accordance with our improve-
ments, the division takes place near to the pile stripe.
Each strip is next folded over and sewn doubled (by machine preferably) close
underneath the pile stripe, so that only a single plain or other ground portion of
the strip of cloth is left for attachment to the garment; by which means an
improved binding is produced which will adapt itself to quicker curves on the
garment to which it is applied without puckering or adding undue thickness
thereto, than those at present in use.
It will readily be understood that any suitable tread of pile stripes for cutting
as well as of uncut ground work may be employed in the weaving; and the
tighter and slacker weaving, or warps, for obtaining the special effect herein-
before named may be varied both in number and position together with the
width of the alternate stripes of cut and uncut fabric, and also the material

page_text: thereof and other variations in detail may be made without departing from the
peculiar character of the invention.
Hated this 13th day of Januo 1900
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester,
Agent for Applicant.
Improvements in Bindings or Trimmings for Skirts and other
Garments.
We, CHARLES MARX, of The Lodge, Victoria Park, Manchester, Merchant, and
ARTHUR RALPH FISH, of Moor Park Villa, Preston, Manager, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The improvements relate to that class of skirt bindings or trimmings in which
a portion is composed of cut pile, and have for object the manufacture of the
same in such manner that they become more conformable to the curve of the
skirt or dress to which they are applied and otherwise more efficient than at
present obtains in bindings of a similar character.
To accomplish this and to effect our improvements, we weave a fabric with
alternate longitudinal stripes of plain, twill, mat or other ground weaving; and
cord, velvet, plush or other cut pile weaving, but in a manner to be hereinafter
described.
When weaving the stripes of pile fabric we prefer to insert therein what is
understood as a cord warp, on each or one side of which the pile is cut, to facili-
tate the subsequent even turning over or doubling of the pile portion to form
the binding or trimming.
In all cases we arrange and draw the two portions of the warp yarns in the
reed from separate beams and actuate or weight the same in any suitable manner,
so as to obtain differential tightnesses during the weaving of each stripe forming
a binding.
The object of this differential weaving is to cause the strips or ribbons of bind-
ing or trimming, formed by longitudinally cutting or dividing the fabric between
each stripe, to take a tendency to curve at one edge thereof, so as to enable the
finished binding to more readily and correctly conform to the curve of the gar-
ment to which it is applied.
By leaving one or more empty dents on one side of the stripe of ground
weaving, we facilitate the subsequent division of the strips into bindings. The
stripes are cut or divided longitudinally by any suitable means after the pile of
the cloth has been cut and the cloth finished; but, in accordance with our improve-
ments, the division takes place near to the pile stripe.
Each strip is next folded over and sewn doubled (by machine preferably) close
underneath the pile stripe, so that only a single plain or other ground portion of
the strip of cloth is left for attachment to the garment; by which means an
improved binding is produced which will adapt itself to quicker curves on the
garment to which it is applied without puckering or adding undue thickness
thereto, than those at present in use.
But that the invention may be better understood, we will, with the aid of the
accompanying drawings proceed more fully to describe means employed by us.
DESCRIPTION OF DR AUIZINGAS

page_text: and Fig. 2 shews a short length of binding width when separated by cutting;
while Fig. 3 shews a transverse section of the same when bent over and stitched.
The same letters indicate corresponding parts wherever they occur.
a are the stripes of plain, matted, or other non-piled portions of the fabric
forming the part to be sewn on to a skirt or other garment, and b are the stripes
of cut weft pile portions. A convenient place for the weaving of a cord warp is
along the cloth in the direction indicated by the arrow-heads marked c; but this
may be in some cases dispensed with, and the pile may be cut on both sides of
such cord as illustrated, or it may be on only one side thereof. The strips are
cut at or about the line d where we prefer to leave an empty dent for the purpose.
The essential feature of the invention is the employment of differential weight-
ing of the warp yarns, which may be varied in detail but always by applying more
weight to one portion of the warp yarns than to the other so as to cause the strips
when cut away from the piece of fabric to take more or less of a curve as shewn
in Fig. 2. It will readily be seen that if the warp threads forming the portions a
are more lightly weighted than the warp threads forming the cut pile portions b,
or even a portion of them, this curvature on separation will result. When
the strips thus formed are separated, the velvet or cut pile portion is folded over
and stitched or otherwise caused to be doubled as shewn in Fig. 3 so as to have
a single thickness of non-piled or ground portion for sewing on to the garment,
by which means a skirt binding is produced which more readily follows the
contour or curvature of the hems of skirts or the like, and without the objection-
able bulkiness which obtains with completely doubled over bindings.
It will readily be understood that any suitable tread of pile stripes for cutting
as well as of uncut ground warp may be employed in the weaving; and the
tighter and slacker weaving, or warps, for obtaining the special effect herein-
before named may be varied both in number and position; together with the
width of the alternate stripes of cut and uncut fabric, and also the material
thereof; and other variations in detail may be made without departing from the
peculiar character of the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
-
Skirt bindings and the like formed from fabric woven in alternate stripes of
piled and non-piled cloth, and having warp yarns therein which have differential
weightings to give the separated strips curvature, and which strips are afterwards
folded into bindings for the purpose and in manner substantially as herein shewn
and described.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester,
Agent for Applicant