Improvements in or connected with the Method of and in Machines for Preparing and Sewing Pocket Flaps and Pocket Holes for Wearing Apparel.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 20th May, 1897
Complete Specification Left, 17th Feb., 1898-Accepted, 30th Apr., 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or connected with the Method of and in Machines
for Preparing and Sewing Pocket Flaps and Pocket Holes for
Wearing Apparel.
I, JOHN WILLIAM SUNDERLAND, of Millgarth Mills, Leeds, in the County of
York, Wholesale Clothier, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
My invention relates to the method of and machinery whereby pocket flaps and
pocket holes may be sewn and secured with greater speed than heretofore, and work
executed as hereafter described is neater and more accurate than work hitherto per-
formed in the ordinary way.
According to my invention, I employ a sewing machine having two needles
working side by side through the same presser foot, and beneath the presser foot I
pass a tape which is guided in a channel and which is fed forward by the feed plate
of the machine. The under side of the presser foot is formed with one side deeper
than the other, the ridge between the two portions running in a line with the feed
of the feed plate. The tape above referred to may be carried on a roller situated
beneath the table, and a clamping device is applied to the roller for the purpose of
controlling the feed to the work.
The cloth of the garment to which the pocket is to be applied, is fed into the
machine between the presser foot and the tape, and the flap and the lining for the
pocket between the cloth and the presser foot. The tape, cloth, flap, and pocket
lining to be sewn, are now fed through the machine beneath the presser foot, the
deeper edge of the presser foot resting on the lining, and the shallow edge of the
presser foot resting on the flap; and the ridge between the two portions of the presser
foot acts as a guide for the edge of the flap, thus ensuring the work passing through
the machine in a perfectly straight line. The space between the two seams is then
slit down the middle, and the pocket lining is passed through the aperture thus
formed, when the pocket can be completed in any ordinary way.
Dated this 20th day of May 1897.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or connected with the Method of and in Machines
for Preparing and Sewing Pocket Flaps and Pocket Holes for
Wearing Apparel.
I, JOHN WILLIAM SUNDERLAND, of Millgarth Mills, Leeds, in the County of
York, Wholesale Clothier, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in

page_text: what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to the method of and machinery whereby pocket flaps and
pocket holes may be sewn and secured with greater speed than heretofore, and work
executed as hereafter described is neater and more accurate than work hitherto per-
forined in the ordinary way.
In order that my invention may be clearly understood I will proceed to describe
same with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which similar letters refer to
like parts in all the figures.
Figure 1 is a sectional elevation of so much of a sewing machine as is necessary to
illustrate my invention, and Figure 2 is a cross section of the same mechanism.
Figure 3 is an enlarged view of the pocket flap and other material under treatment.
According to my invention I employ a sewing machine A having two needles B
and C working side by side through the same presser foot D; and beneath the said
presser foot D a tape E is passed, being guided in channels F and G situated on the
bed of the machine. The underside of the presser foot D is formed with one side D¹
deeper than the side D², the ridge between the two portions running in a line with
the feed of the machine. The tape E is carried on a roller H which is provided with
an adjustable friction plate J whereby the tension on the tape E may be adjusted at
will.
K is the cloth of the garment to which the pocket is to be applied, L is the
flap, and M is the lining.
The tape E is first drawn through the channels F and G to the required length
over the feed plate of the machine, and the cloth K is placed in position over same.
The flap L is then placed under the portion D2 of the presser foot D and the lining M
is placed under the portion D¹. The machine is then started, and the work is fed
beneath the needles B and C which stitch two lines of stitches N and P, and the
straightness of the work is ensured by the ridge in the presser foot D resting against
the edge of the flap L, as it passes through the machine. The detail view Figure 3
shews the relative positions of the tape E, cloth K, flap L and lining M, as they are
passed through the machine, and when they are sewn together the tape E and cloth K
are cut through at the line X Y, thus making the pocket hole, and the lining can
then be passed through the said hole and the flap be turned over in the ordinary
way.
By the employment of my invention, tapes may be employed in the place of pieces
of linen for the purpose of strengthening the pocket holes, with the consequent
result of greater strength and neatness; and the sewing of the parts together being
effected in one operation, where several distinct sewing operations have been hitherto
been necessary, much time is saved and greater accuracy is obtained.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The method of preparing and sewing pocket flaps and pocket holes, whereby the
same may be sewn in one operation, substantially as and for the purposes set
forth.
2. The method of sewing together the pocket flap, lining, cloth and tape, at one
direct operation, and the subsequent cutting of the pocket hole through the cloth
and tape, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
3. In a machine for sewing pocket flaps and pocket holes, a presser foot having
upper and lower portions on the under side of same, substantially as and for the
purposes set forth.
4. In a machine for sewing pocket holes and pocket flaps, a channel or guide for
feeding the tape in a straight line, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
5. In a machine for sewing pocket flaps and pocket holes, the combination of the
needles B and C, the presser foot D, tape E, and channels F and G, substantially as
and for the purposes set forth.

page_text: 6. In a machine for sewing pocket flaps and pocket holes, the needles B and C,
the presser foot D having portions D1 and D2, in combination with the tape E.
channels F and G, roller H and friction plate J, substantially as and for the purposes
set forth.