Improvements in the Manufacture of Shirts and in Cuffs 'for the same.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 21st Apr., 1886.
Complete Left, 19th Jan., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 22nd Feb., 1887.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Shirts and in Cuffs
'for the same.
I, CHARLES PEACHEY HOLLISS, of 182 Trongate, Glasgow, Lanarkshire, Clothier,
hereby declare the nature of my invention to be as follows:
-
do
My invention has reference to improvements in the construction of shirts and the
parts thereof and in the mode of putting these together, whereby shirts, so constructed,
will fit the body better, and give greater comfort in wear with ease and freedom for
action and motion than has been the case with shirts as heretofore constructed.
The nature and novelty of my invention consist as follows.―
1 first cut and shape the back and front parts by measurement to fit the back and
chest of the persons, in the same manner as is usual for giving an easy fit of a coat or
tunic, but with a curved band or segmental gusset piece sewed all round the front and
lower part of the arm holes, where and to which the wide armpits of the sleeves are
sewed, and which has the effect of throwing this edge part out off the plane of the
body towards the sleeve, thus giving greater strength at this part and freedom for the
action of the arms. These parts when sewed together would open up and down
the whole front and close across the chest in a double breasted manner opening up over at
the one side (preferably the right hand side) of the chest nearly quite over to the arm
hole below the braces, in an angular or hollow curved manner, where one or more
holes would be formed for small studs down the edge of the outer breast part and in
the under covered breast part below. This would keep the dressed front well in the
central position, and also prevent its side edge from coming in contact with the braces,
or being exposed when wearing an open dress vest.
By another improvement the band collar of the shirt is sewed all round the neck
edge of the back and front overlapping parts, so that the front end would cross over
the under front part and be fastened by a small stud at one side; and would have a
stud hole in the centre behind and one in the front for a stud to secure the two ends of

page_text: the outer false or removable dressed collar. I make the under part of the collar and
front, to come to the centre and be also fastened by the front stud to which the false
collar is fastened. In this way all the studs and those down the centre of the dressed
front would be put in before the shirt was put on, and not require to be taken out until
it had to be laid aside for washing; the shirt being always put off, and on, like a coat,
surtout, or tunic, the studs answering as buttons. I further make the sleeves with
narrow wristbands, or. of about half the usual depth, and attach the false dressed full
wristbands by a stud in their centre width, to the band below, so that when one half
of the dressed wristbands are soiled, the other half can be turned round on the stud
as a swivel and brought into wear, or they may be removed at will, still leaving the
shirt perfect with the half wristbands. I also substitute studs for buttons on these and
on all other parts of the shirts where buttons are now used.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Shirts and in Cuffs
for the same.
I, CHARLES PEACHEY HOLLISS, of 182 Trongate, Glasgow, Lanarkshire, Clothier, do
hereby declare the nature of my Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement
in writing, reference being had to the accompanying Sheet of Drawings, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My said Invention has reference to improvements in the construction of shirts, and
the parts thereof, and in the mode of putting these together, whereby shirts, so con-
structed, will fit the body better, and give greater comfort in wear, with ease in putting
them on, and freedom for action and motion, than has been the case with shirts as
heretofore constructed.
And in order that my said Invention and the manner of performing or carrying the
same into effect or practice may be properly understood, I have hereunto appended an
explanatory Sheet of Drawings, in which the same reference letters are used to indicate
corresponding parts in all the Figures where shown. Figure 1, shows my new or
improved shirt as opened up to show its construction more clearly. Figure 2, shows
a front view of the shirt as it would be when closed and secured, with studs, on the
body of the wearer.
Referring to these Drawings, the nature and novelty of my Invention consists as
follows. first cut and shape the back and front parts A and B, B', respectively, by
measurement, and have them sewn together over the back of shoulder as usual to
fit the back and chest of the person, in the same manner as is usual for giving an easy
fit of a coat or tunic, but with a curved band or segmental gusset piece sewed all
round the front and lower part of the arm holes, in the body A, B, where and to
which the wide armpits of the sleeves. C, are sewed, and which has the effect of
throwing this edge part out of the plane of the body towards the sleeve C, thus giving
greater strength at this part and freedom for the action of the arms as is seen
particularly in Figure 2. The front and back parts would also be sewn together down
the sides at b, b, from the sleeve bands, leaving the lower front parts of B, B1, loose, and
the front parts quite open so that they would open up and down the whole at 6, and
close over each other across the linen breasted parts B, B2, in a double breasted
manner overlapping each other as indicated by the dotted line in Figure 2, opening
up over at the one side (preferably the right hand side) of the chest nearly quite over
to the arm hole below the braces, in an angular or hollow curved manner, at b², where
one or more holes 3, 6, would be formed for small studs down the edge of the outer
breast part, B2, and in the under covered breast part B below. This would keep the
dressed front B with its studs d, well in the central position, and also prevent its
opening up side edges from coming in contact with the braces, or being exposed
when wearing an open dress vest.
:

page_text: :
By another improvement the band collar a of the shirt is sewed all round the neck
edge of the back A and front overlapping parts B, B1, B2, so that the front end a' of
the banda, would cross over the under front part, and be fastened by the holes a³,
and a small stud at one side and would have a stud hole d in the centre behind, and
two holes d, in front for a stud to secure the under end band ², and the two front
ends of the outer false or ordinary removable dressed collar, not shown in the Drawings.
I make the under part of the collar band a, and of the front B and ',, to come to
the centre and be also fastened by the front stud d to which the false collar is fastened.
In this way all the studs, and those d down the centre of the dressed front B2, B²,
would be put in before the shirt was put on, and not require to be taken out until it
has to be laid aside for washing; the shirt being always put off, and on, like a coat,
surtout or tunic, the studs answering for buttons. I further make the sleeves C with
narrow wristbands C, to open up at , and he attached by two holes and a stud
and I attach the false dressed full wristbands thereto by a hole and a stud at e': in
their centre width, to the band C₁ below, so that when one half of the dressed wrist-
bands are soiled, the other half can be turned round on the stud at e' as a swivel and
brought into wear, or they may be removed at will, still leaving the shirt perfect with
the half wristbands C. Talso substitute studs for buttons on these and on all other parts
of the shirts where buttons are now used, so that no buttons are required on this
opening up shirt, but only holes for studs as seen particularly in Figure 1.
Although I have only described and shown a dressed shirt, it is to be anderstood that
my Improvements are equally applicable to striped, woollen, or other shirts used by
Sportsmen and workmen, to which false dressed collars and cuffs may be applied in
the same manner as to the dressed,shirts.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
First. The manufacturing, or cutting, sewing, and putting together and securing of
the parts, of shirts, all substantially as and for the advantages herein described, in
reference to and shown in the accompanying Drawings.
Second. In the manufacture of shirts, the making of their front parts to open up
and close in a double breasted manner right over to the one side under the braces,
substantially as and for the advantages herein described, in reference to and shown in
the accompanying Drawings.
Third. In the manufacture of shirts, the making of the collar bands to overlap each
other round the one side as well as the breasts, and the joining of the armpits of the
sleeves to the shirts by bands, substantially as and for the advantages herein described,
in reference to and shown in the accompanying Drawings.
Fourth. In the manufacture of shirts, the putting together and securing of all the
opening up parts of the shirts by stud holes and studs, substantially as and for the
advantages herein described, in reference to and shown in the accompanying
Drawings.