Improvements in Weaving the End Borders of Towels, Napkins, Table Cloths, and other such Articles, and in the Mechanism therefor.
Year: 1887

page_text: Cate of Application, 7th Nov., 1887
Complete Specification Left, 31st July, 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 7th Sept., 1888
Improvements in Weaving the End Borders of Towels, Napkins,
Table Cloths, and other such Articles, and in the Mechanism
therefor.
We, FRANCIS MORRISON of Rolland Street Dunfermline, in the County of Fife,
North Britain, Factory Manager, and ERSKINE BEVERIDGE of St. Leonard's Hill, in
the same County, Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention' to
be as follows:-
This Invention which relates to improvements in weaving the end borders of towels,
napkins, table cloths and other such articles, has for its object to produce automatically
in the loom, open work borders, in which the openings more or less have a square or
rectangular shape and appearance, and this in combination with damask, huckaback
diaper, or plain cloth.
is used.
"Dobbie
23
The Invention is carried out in looms wherein a Jacquard Machine or a
When a Dobbie machine is used the Loom, in addition to the heddles for
shedding the warp for weaving the body or groundwork of the cloth, is provided with
leaves of " doup" heddles in front of the ordinary heddles, for the purpose of
producing the looping or twisting by which the border is produced. When a Jacquard
machine is used the Loom, in addition to the harness for shedding the warp for
weaving the body or groundwork of the cloth, is provided with leaves of "doup"
heddles in front of the harness, for the purpose of producing the looping or twisting
by which the border is produced. In either case, and this is the invention claimed,
the cards of the Jacquard, or cards or chain of the Dobbie Machine, are punched at
the required intervals, to allow of a needle being brought into play which, without
stopping the loom, releases a lever connected with the slackening bar of the loom, the
effect of which arrangement is, that the loosening of the slackening bar, and the
operations of the heddles take place simultaneously, the release of the slackening bar
allowing the looping or twisting to take place freely, without any undue strain on
the warp.
The twisting or looping produced by means of this invention is somewhat after
the manner of that produced in the manufacture of what are known as
"Leno Curtains."
FRANCIS MORRISON.
ERSKINE BEVERIDGE.

page_text: Improvements in Weaving the End Borders of Towels, Napkins,
Table-cloths, and other such Articles, and in the Mechanism
therefor.
We, FRANCIS MORRISON, of Rolland Street, Dunfermline, in the County of Fife,
North Britain, Factory Manager, and ERSKINE BEVERIDGE, of St. Leonards Hill, in
the same County, Manufacturer, do hereby declaro the nature of our said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement in writing, reference being had to the
accompanying Two Sheets of Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked
thereon, that is to say :-
This Invention which relates to improvements in weaving the end or cross borders
of towels, napkins, table-cloths, and other such articles, has for its object to produce
automatically in the loom, open work borders, in which the openings more or less
have a square or rectangular shape and appearance, and this in combination with
damask, huckaback, diaper, or plain cloth.
The invention is carried out in looms wherein a jacquard machine or a "Dobbic" is
usod. When a Dobbie machine is used the loom, in addition to the heddles for
shedding the warp for weaving the body or ground-work of the cloth, is provided with
leaves of "doup" heddles, in front of the ordinary heddles, for the purpose of
producing the looping or twisting, by which the new border is produced. When a
jacquard machine is used, the loom, in addition to the harness for shedding the warp
for weaving the body or ground-work of the cloth, provided with leaves of "doup
heddles in front of the harness, for the purpose of producing the looping or twisting
by which the new border effect is produced. In either case, and this is the invention
claimed, the cards of the jacquard, or cards, plates or chain of the Dobbie machine,
are punched at the required intervals, to allow of a needle being brought into play,
which without stopping the loom, releases a lever connected with the slackening bar
of the loom, the effect of which arrangement is that the loosening of the slackening
bar, and the operations of the heddles take place simultaneously, the release of the
slackening bar allowing the looping or twisting to take place freely without any undue
strain on the warp.
The twisting or looping produced by means of this invention is somewhat
after the manner of that produced in the manufacture of what are known as
"Leno Curtains."
And in order that our said invention, and the manner of performing or carrying
the same into effect or practice may be properly understood, we have hereunto appended
two explanatory Sheets of Drawings, in which the same reference letters are used to

page_text: indicate corresponding parts in all the figures where shown. Figure 1 on Sheet 1
shows a diagram plan or flat view of a small piece of the fabric W* to an enlarged
size near the new cross border part w w¹ to illustrate the nature of the improvements
and mode of weaving this improved part or cross border of the fabric produced
showing one of the many Leno patterns that can be made in this way. Figure 2 on
Sheet I shows an end or side view of the loom A A, and jacquard or Dobbie
mechanism J, above, with the harness H, for working the body part Wx of the fabric,
and lines or cords 636 for working the "doup" heddles a, a, as broken away
at H*, *. Figure 3 on Sheet 2 shows a front view of the loom A A. and jacquard J
(or Dobbio mechanism) above," corresponding to, and at right angles to Figure 2.
Figure 4 on Sheet 2 shows a transverse section of the doup heddles a a¹ to a larger
scale than shown in Figures 2 and 3. Figuro 5, on Sheet 1, shows a diagram view to
a small scale of two of the pattern cards brought into action at the proper time for
forming or shedding the doup heddles a a¹ to form the new twist open cross border
part w, w, of the fabric, and also slack back the one half of the warp W2, which has
to be looped or twisted round the other half W, between the shots of weft w¹
binding the twist sheds of the border work w, w¹. The first card, which is blank for
the harness needles, is only punched with the two new holes b, b, for raising these
heddles a, a, for forming the first twist of the alternate parts or sections W2 of the
warp round the other alternate parts W₁ of the warp, before making each of the first
shots of the weft of the open cross horder work and the other or second card is
punched only in the upper or lower half to raise the part or section W2, of the warp
by the harness, with one only of the new holes 6 punched in the card, which raises
the doup heddle a¹ to make the second twist on the opposite side and bring the warps
back to their original position for making the second shots of the weft of the open
border work. Except in pick and pick looms alternately two of the cards blank and
two of the cards cut in the upper or lower half will be used for the cross borders.
And Figure 6 on Sheet 1 shows a detached detail view of part of the mechanism
actuated by the said card j and needle draw wires for allowing the slackening back
of the warp W, at the proper time for shedding with the "doup" heddles a a while
weaving the border part w, w, as stated. Referring to these Drawings, A represents
the side frames of an ordinary power loom as used for weaving damask, huckaback,
diaper, or plain cloth, for towels, napkins, table-cloths, and other such like fabrics.
Bis the warp beam carried in a usual manner at the back of the loom, having the
shedding warp W, W, brought forward in two parts or divisions, W, W³, preferably
in equal parts over a fixed beam B' and a movable beam or bar B2 respectively, the
latter carried on the upper or under end of two levers B1, B, on a cross spindle B³,
actuated as will hereinafter be explained by a lever 133 at one side of the loom. These
shedding warps W₁, W, are brought forward in a usual manner through their
ordinary shedding barness H H, or leaves of heddles for weaving the pattern and
body W of the fabric, and through the reed of the lathe A¹ over the breast beam A2,
in front, down round their taking up rollers and beams at D, D, actuated by the usual
take up ratchet wheel and toothed gearing D1, D2, all as seen more particularly in
Figure 2. And the warp W, W2, and its pattern weaving harness indicated at H, H,
is here shown as actuated either by the ordinary jacquard pattern card mechanism as
shown at J, carried on beams J, much higher up above the loom than it was
possible to indicate in the Drawings, for weaving elaborate patterns, or it might be by
a "Dobbie" mechanism with plates, cards, or chains, not indicated in the Drawings,
for actuating the shedding harness or heddles for weaving the main body part of the
pattern and fabric, all so far in a usual manner. But by the present improvements,
in addition to the ordinary shedding harness H H, (or said Dobbie worked leaves of
heddles) we introduce and mount a set of doup or double loop heddles a, a¹, shown
detached in figure 4, and through the heddle a of which the one half or alternate
three, (more or less) strands W¹ of the warp raised by the harness passes without being
shed by the heddles, while the other part or half is passed through the doup or
half leaf al for producing the new open cross border work shown at w of these
improved fabrics W* with the lace or leno gauze twist or loop work w, 20, as indicated,

page_text: in Figure 1 actuated by the use and cutting of two new holes shown at in the
pattern card Figure 5, for actuating two additional needles and draw wires at 6 in
the jacquard mechanism Figure 3 wherever this open border work w is required to
be woven, and which draw wires ¹ by one of the cords & actuate the jack levers a² a³
of the heddle leaf a, and the other cord & actuates the jack levers a", al, of the
half leaf or doup heddle a respectively by the cords 6, 61, as seen more particularly
in Figures 3 and 4 to shed the warp and twist or loop it just before throwing the
shuttle and weft shots, as indicated at t¹ in Figure 1 to form the twist and open work
border w.
The leaves a a¹ of the doup heddles are kept down by spiral springs 63, 6,
when not raised through the medium of the holes of the pattern cards j and draw
wires and cords 1, of the jacquard mechanism J.
Both parts of the warp W, W2, are shed by the harness H H, to weave the body
pattern part Wx of the fabric Figure 1, so that the half or alternate sectional
strands W2 which pass through the doup heddle a have therefore to be raised every
shed and shot with the harness H; but the heddle a and its doup a¹ have only to be
raised to form the twist shed with the strands W2 round the warp strands W₁ while
weaving the first shot of every twist of the new border part, the harness forming
the second shot and twist by bringing back the warp W2 to its original side, all as
hereinafter described. A further improvement consists in causing or taking another
motion from the action of the said raising draw wires and cords 2 or jack levers a², all,
(when these are brought into action by the said holes in the cards for working the
heddles a, and new border part w), for the purpose of slackening the division of
the warp W, which passes over the reciprocating bar B2 of the lever arrange
ment B, B, while the new additional heddles a, a, are shedding the warp to make
the gauze or lace twist of the border work; and this is effected under one arrange-
ment as shown in the Drawings, by taking a draw cord ad from one of the jack
lovers a, down to the horizontal lever at, on the front end of a spindle & carried
on standards, having secured on its other end a vertical lever * connected by
a draw wire or cord e to a spring slide bar c, c², guided in brackets e secured to
one of the side frames A, of the loom, as shown particularly in Figure 3, and
detached in Figure 6. This bar c, is drawn out by the action of the jacquard or
Dobbie machine and the spiral spring c always locks and keeps the lever B³ locked
by its projection B, as seen particularly in Figure 2, with the warp W2, tightened
up, while working the pattern and body part Wx of the fabric; but freed by the
said locking spring bar c, c², whenever the border working heddles a, a', are brought
into action. The actual tightening up and slackening back of the part of the
warp, when this tightening lever mechanism B1, B3, is brought into action by the
pattern mechanism of the heddles a, a, for forming the open border work is effected
by a suitable cam U, secured on one end of the crank shaft A³, of the loom, acting
on the free end of the lever B³, the concentric part of this cam C always maintaining
the lever arrangements B3, B, B, outwards, to tighten the warp W2, while the
lathe and reed A¹ is beating up the weft at the fell W³, of the cloth, the cam ( however
slackening back the lever arrangement, where it is cut away at C, while the border
looping or twisting heddles a a are free to form the loop or twisted shed, to form
the open border work w, w¹, of the fabric, without any undue strain on the warp W²,
the spiral spring B attached to the levor B drawing this lever against the eccentric
part of the cam C, C, to slacken back the warp W, all as just described, and seen
more particularly in Figure 2. When the pattern cards j, and the jacquard
mechanism J, are weaving the pattern or plain body of the cloth W*, this lever
slackening back mechanism B, B1, B2, is held out of action, with the warp W2 tight,
by the said locking bar c, c², and mechanism shown in Figure 6 and only brought into
action by the same pattern holes b in the cards j, and needles which actuate the doup
heddles a, a, for forming the open border work w, w¹. A different shuttle and
weft would generally also be brought into action for forming the woven weft
part w, w, of the open border w shown in Figure 1.
A further improvement consists in the introduction and use of an additional hole e
in the card j, and needle and draw wire at e', in the jacquard mechanism, for giving

page_text: an extra take-up motion of the ratchet wheel D¹ and gearing D2 of the cloth
beams D. And for this purpose according to one arrangement, a pulling cord or
wire is attached above to the said lifting or drawing wire el of the needle and
pattern hole e and below to the one arm e3 of the beam lever es, el, fulcrumed on the
standard at the lower front part of the loom. The front end e³ of this beam lever
is connected by a cord or wire e to a ratchet pawl lever es of an additional ratchet
take-up wheel e, on the spindle D" of the ordinary ratchet wheel D' worked by
the lathe A¹, all so that by this additional take-up motion, the cloth will be taken up
at a faster rate while weaving this open cross border w, w', to form the open pattern
or approximately square interstices, than when working the close central pattern
body of the fabric W, which is taken up by the ordinary ratchet wheel mechanism D¹.
An extra needle hole for would also be formed in the pattern card ; (which actuates
the border forming doup heddles a, a¹) for bringing the extra shuttle and weft to of
the shuttle raising mechanism into action while working the border; instead of the
usual pattern hole for bringing the ordinary shuttle and weft into action for weaving
the body part of the fabric, as indicated in Figure 5. A cord from the lifting
wire of this shuttle needle f¹ would be brought down and connected to the lever
to actuate the corresponding outer pattern lever of the shuttle mechanism, which
would control the bringing of the shuttle and weft w¹, in line with the race of the
lathe A while weaving the open cross border o. The other levers F3 and F* bring
the shuttle and weft into action for working the body Wx of the pattern controlled
by the hole fand needle of the pattern cards all in a usual manner.
Other arrange-
ments, than those shown and described of the levers B B and cam mechanism C, C',
which might be mounted either on the crank or picking shaft and holding and releasing
lever and spring catch bar mechanism a, b, c, c², may be employed for slackening
back the division W2 of the warp, actuated by the same cards and holes which
work the doup heddles a a¹; as also different arrangements of the levers e ell
and ff, for giving the additional take up motion, and bringing the shuttle of
the new weft w into action while the beddles a, a, are working and shedding the
warp for the weaving of the open cross borders w, w¹.
The main or essential improvements of our invention are in the punching or
forming of special additional holes b, b, in the jacquard pattern cards of jacquard
mechanism, or equivalents in the cards, plates or chains of Dobbie machines, for
the actuating of doup heddles a, a, in front of the ordinary harness H, HÍ, or
heddles, and shedding of the warp, and the slackening back of said warp while it is
being shed, for the weaving of these new open work cross borders in looms for the
weaving of damask or Dobbie fabrics, such as towels, napkins, table-cloths, and other
such like articles. And further in the forming and use of special and additional
holes e in said cards j, to give an additional take-up motion of the fabric in such
looms while weaving the said new open cross border in said fabrics or articles.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is
First. The modes of, and means or mechanism applied to damask, Dobbie, and such
like looms for the weaving of open cross borders in towels, napkins, table-cloths
and such like fabrics or articles, all substantially as herein described, in reference
to and shown in the accompanying Drawings.
Second. In damask Dobbie and such like weaving looms the punching of extra
special holes b, in the pattern cards of their jacquard mechanism, or forming the
equivalents in the cards, plates, or chains of their Dobbie machines, to allow of a
needle being brought into play at the required intervals to actuate doup heddles and
release the slackening warp bar or its lever arrangement while these are shedding
the warp, so that the loosening of this slackening bar and the operations of the doup
heddles take place simultaneously and without stopping the loom, and thus enable
the open work to commence, stop, and recommence automatically for the weaving

page_text: of the end borders of towels. napkins, table-cloths, and such like fabrics, substantially
as herein described, in reference to and shown in the accompanying Drawings.
Third. In damask, Dobbie, and such like weaving looms, the punching of the
pattern cards, plates or chains with special and additional holes e for the actuating of
needles and draw wires and lever mechanism at required intervals to give an extra
take-up motion, while weaving the new open border parts, in towels, napkins, table-
cloths and such like fabrics, substantially as herein described, in reference to and
shown in the accompanying Drawings.