Improvements in Chain-stitch Sewing Machines, chiefly applicable for Boots and Shoes
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd May, 1898
Complete Specification Left, 23rd Feb., 1899-Accepted, 1st Apr., 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Chain-stitch Sewing Machines, chiefly applicable
for Boots and Shoes,
OTIS ELMER BROWN, 11, Oxford Avenue, Leicester, Engineer, do hereby de-
clare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to sewing machines using a curved needle making a
chain stitch and used principally for sewing boots and shoes, and consists of a
main take-up working in such order of time with relation to the needle that
the slack thread is taken up while the needle is out of the stock and before the
stitch has been set, it also draws thread from the source of supply. When the
main take-up has reached the extreme limit of its stroke it immediately returns
for a part of its stroke and thus allows sufficient slack thread to enable the
needle to draw the stitch tight, while completing its backward stroke, without
rendering the thread through the needle. The needle also may or may not
draw thread from the source of supply. I also provide an auxiliary take-up
actuated by a spring, its functions being to take up slack thread and also to
draw the thread tight while the looper is laying it around the throat of the
needle.
Further I include in my invention a back-gauge carriage working in a
circular path and SO devised that it does not require to be locked in any
position.
I also include a feed mechanism in which a circular motion is given to the
feed-point as it enters and is withdrawn from the stock and it is so arranged
that it pierces the sewing channel to feed the stock and allows of a stationary
channel-guide being used.
71
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1000
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Chain-stitch Sewing Machines, chiefly applicable
for Boots and Shoes.
I, OTIS ELMER BROWN, of the Union Works, Belgrave Road, and late of
11, Oxford Avenue, Leicester, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to sewing machines having a curved needle making a
chain stitch and used principally in the manufacture of boots and shoes, for

page_text: sewing the welt to the inner sole, or the sole to the upper in the turn-shoe
system, and the invention relates particularly to the back-gauge carriage carry-
ing the welt guide for the former system, or fork for the latter system.
The boot or shoe is clamped between the welt guide (or the fork) and the
channel guide, during the time the needle is striking through to draw the thread
and form the stitch.
The said back-gauge carriage is circular in form with its centre the same as
that of the needle, the welt guide (or fork) on the said carriage being so carried
in relation to the said centre of needle that it requires no locking device; the
latter being necessary however with other machines of this class.
In sewing machines as at present constructed for the before mentioned pur-
poses the welt guide or fork is made horizontally adjustable in relation to the
feed point, but such adjustment involves extra parts and therefore tends to
complicate the machine.
The several parts are hereinafter described and shown for the sewing of a
welt to the upper of a boot or shoe though all the parts are used for sewing the
sole to the upper as in the turn-shoe system by the substitution of a fork (as
before mentioned) of the well known form in place of the welt guide.
In sewing a welt to the inner sole of a boot or shoe, the welt is passed through
an opening in the welt guide in the well known way to the inner sole which is
already upon the last together with the upper. The stock is then clamped
between the channel guide and the front of the welt guide during the time the
needle is drawing the thread and forming the stitch.
The invention will be fully understood by reference to the drawing accom-
panying this specification in which only so much of the mechanism of the class
of machine mentioned is shown as to clearly illustrate the invention.
Figure 1 is a side elevation and Figure 2 a front elevation of the back gauge
carriage and welt guide together with the channel guide, looper, needle, and
,feed point.
Figure 3 is a diagrammatic plan of Figure 1 showing one position assumed
by the several parts in the formation of a stitch.
Figure 4 is a side elevation, Figure 5 a front elevation and Figure 6 a plan
showing the relative positions assumed when the needle is ready for looping.
Figure 7 is a view hereinafter referred to.
As will be readily seen upon reference to the drawing annexed hereto, the
needle holder A carries a needle B which is guided by the finger B.
The feed point C is carried upon an arm C¹ and has a circular motion imparted
to it from a bracket C2 and also a lateral movement.
A looper D has the usual reciprocating circular motion and a channel guide E
is fixed in the required position, to the parts mentioned.
All the said parts are of the usual form in such machines and have the usual
movements imparted to them, (with the exception of the channel guide E which
is stationary) by means of cams fixed on the main shaft in the well known way.
Instead of giving the welt guide Fa horizontal backward and forward move-
ment, it is fixed by screws F to a circular plate G,, the latter being connected.
to a rod G¹ by a bolt G2* passing into the said circular plate G, the further end
of said rod Gi being actuated in the well known manner by a cam fixed on the
main shaft of the machine. By the action of a spring fixed to the said rod G¹
the welt guide F on the said circular plate is sufficiently moved forward to cause
the said welt guide F to clamp the stock against the channel guide E during
such time as the needle is striking through the welt to draw the thread and form
the stitch, and is moved back by the action of a cam on the main shaft to release
the stock just prior to the feed point C moving the stock along.
The said plate G moves in a circular groove formed in a bracket H the latter
being provided with a flange H¹ having holes H2 through which bolts pass to
hold said bracket to the frame of the machine.

page_text: The plate G is kept in position in the groove in the bracket H by the circular
plates G secured to the said bracket H by the screws G³.
The feed point C is secured by screws C to the arm C¹ which is fixed on the
spindle C passing through the bracket C².
The said bracket C, as before stated, has the usual lateral motion imparted
to it, and the spindle C a circular movement by means of cams from the main
shaft in the well known way.
The looper D is carried in the collar D¹ and has the usual intermittent recipro-
cating circular motion imparted to it.
The channel guide E is adjustably carried on the bracket J by screws E¹, the
said bracket J being fixed to the frame of the machine by screws J¹.
Upon reference to Figures 1, 2, and 3, the feed point C will be seen in the
position it assumes when it has entered the channel of the stock. By means of
its cam the said feed point will now carry the stock forward until the said feed
point takes the position shown in Figure 7. It is then caused to rise, moving
on the spindle C, at the same time slightly receding from the vertical centre
of the needle and simultaneously with the latter part of its movement, the
needle B penetrates the stock and the welt guide is lowered and brought for-
ward assuming the position shown in Figures 4, 5 and 6.
The
As soon as the needle B has taken the latter position the looper D will pass
the thread around the needle B leaving it snugly in the throat of the latter.
feed point C is then lowered and the needle B and other parts again assume the
position shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3. It will be seen that the feed point C
when in this position is central with the channel guide E, this arrangement of
the two parts named enabling the operator to more easily go round the toe of the
stock.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a welt and turn-shoe sewing machine, the combination with the needle
of a back gauge carriage operating in the manner substantially as described
and illustrated in the accompanying drawing.
2. The combination in a welt and turn-shoe sewing machine of a back gauge
carriage working in a circular path and adapted to clamp the stock against a
fixed channel guide, and a feed point having a circular movement and adapted
to penetrate the stock in front of the channel guide substantially as described
and illustrated in the accompanying drawing.
Dated this 22nd day of February 1899.