IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER FASTENINGS OR ORNA- MENTS FOR DRESS
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Compton Weeks Jefferys, of Tottenham
Court Road, in the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER FASTENINGS OR ORNA-
MENTS FOR DRESS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Compton Weeks
Jefferys at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 31st October 1874.
I, JOHN COMPTON WEEKS JEFFERYS, of Tottenham Court Road, in
the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER FASTENINGS
OR ORNAMENTS FOR DRESS," to be as follows:-
My Invention relates to studs, solitaires, and such like articles of
jewellery, or fastenings for dress, and consists in an improvement in con-
nection with the crescent back for which I obtained Letters Patent
bearing date the 10th July 1868, and numbered 2189.

page_text: The crescent back as heretofore made, although answering the purpose
intended perfectly, so far as regards the facility with which it may be
inserted through the button hole, yet in the case of a shirt stud it is
somewhat difficult to remove from the button hole in consequence of the
horns of the crescent being necessarily brought somewhat close together
to avoid the possibility of the stud working itself out accidently.
My present Invention is designed to remedy this inconvenience and
to enable the crescent back to be removed as easily as it is inserted
without rendering it less secure. It consists in the combination with
a crescent shaped back (or with a back of such analogous shape as to be
inserted in the button hole by a rotatory movement in the manner of a
" crescent" back) of a flat oblong pillar, or shank or its equivalent
disposed radially, that is to say, one edge of the shank is at the centre
of the disc of which the back is made, and the other at the circum-
ference near one of the horns of the crescent. This horn projects just
far enough from the side of the flat shank to enable it when sprung into
the button hole to retain its place securely therein. The flat shank
serves to keep the stud or other article always in one position in the
button hole and prevent it working out, thus affording perfect security
although the opening between the horn or the crescent is considerably
wider than usual hitherto. To insert the stud or other article the horn
farthest from the pillar or shank is inserted in the button hole, and the
stud rotated until the pillar or shank is in line with the button hole, and
the whole of the crescent is passed through except the extremity of the
other horn which is on the other side of the shank, but by pressing the
stud this horn will be forced or sprung through the hole and the stud
rendered secure. To remove the stud the movement is reversed.
If desired the horn last mentioned may terminate in a small ball to.
facilitate forcing it through the button hole, or the projecting extremity
of this horn may be entirely dispensed, or on the other hand it may
be enlarged to form a flange if preferred. As before made the back can
only be turned in one direction, and to enable it to be rotated in either
direction to insert or withdraw it I may make the back of an anchor
instead of a crescent form and provide it with a small ball at the end
as in the former case, or the form of the back may be otherwise
modified.

page_text: filed by the said John Compton Wecks Jefferys in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 24th April 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
COMPTON WEEKS JEFFERYS, of Tottenham Court Road, in the County
of Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of October, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the
thirty-eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said John Compton Wecks Jefferys, Her
special licence that I, the said John Compton Wecks Jefferys, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
John Compton Wecks Jefferys, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, usc, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for " IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER
FASTENINGS OR ORNAMENTS FOR DRESS," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said John Compton Weeks Jefferys, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Compton Weeks Jefferys, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement, reference being had to the
Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters figures marked
thereon (that is to say)
My Invention relates to studs, solitaires, and such like articles of
jewellery or fastenings for dress, and consists in the combination of a

page_text: flat (or nearly flat) oblong pillar or shank, or its equivalent, with a back
similar to the well-known "crescent" shaped back, or with a back of
any other shape capable of being inserted in the button hole by a rotatory
movement, in the manner of a crescent shaped back.
The "crescent" back, as heretofore made, with a round central pillar
or shank, although it may be readily inserted in the button hole is
somewhat difficult to remove, more especially in the case of a shirt stud
in consequence of the horns of the crescent being necessarily brought
somewhat close together to avoid the possibility of the stud working
itself out accidentally.
My present Invention is designed to remedy this inconvenience and
to enable the crescent back to be removed as easily as it is inserted
without rendering it less secure. I therefore attach the back of the
crescent, or such other form as may be inserted in the button hole
by a rotatory movement to the head of the stud by a flat or nearly
flat oblong pillar or shank, or two round pillars placed a short
distance apart and corresponding to the length of the button hole, the
pillar or pillars being in either case so disposed in relation to the
back as to prevent the stud being turned round further than is abso-
lutely necessary to insert it in the button hole. The shank and back
may however be variously arranged according to the form of the
latter.
"
My Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawing in which
Figure 1 shows an elevation and vertical section at right angles thereto,
and Figure 2an under side plan respectively, of one form of my improved
solitaire or stud having a " crescent back. a is the head; b is a nearly
flat oblong pillar or shank, corresponding in width to the length of the
button hole in which it is to be inserted. In this case the shank is slightly
curved to conform to the inner curve of the crescent, but it might be
quite flat. The shank is fixed radially to the crescent back c, that is to
say, one edge of the shank is at the point which would be the centre of
the back were a complete disc, and the other edge is at the circumference.
To insert the stud or other article the horn c¹ is introduced in the
button hole and the stud rotated until the whole of the crescent is
passed through and the pillar or shank is in line with the button hole
into which the shank is then pushed. The flat shank serves to keep the
stud or other articles always in one position in the button hole and

page_text: prevent it working out, thus affording perfect security. To remove the
stud the movement is reversed.
As an equivalent for the flat shank 6 I may provide crescent back
solitaires or studs with two pillars b, 6¹, disposed, the one at the centre
and the other near the horn of the crescent, as shown in Figure 3, which
answers.the same purpose as the flat shank before described.
Figure 4 shows elevations at right angles, and an under side plan of a
modified form of back with flat pillar b. The back approaches more
nearly to the form of a complete disc, although an opening is made next
the shank so as to form a horn c', which is first inserted in the button
hole as before. In this case the shank and back are in one piece, the
metal removed to form the opening in the back being turned up to form
the shank.
As above made the solitaire or stud can only be turned in one direc-
tion to insert and withdraw it, but I may so modify the shape of the
back as to enable it to be rotated in either direction. For this purpose
I may make the back of an anchor form, as in Figure 5, which shews
respectively elevations at right angles and under side plan of a shirt
stud, or I may make the back of crescent form, as in Figure 6, and fix it
to a flat shank (or to its equivalent the double pillar shown in Figure 3),
as shown in Figures 5 and 6. In the latter arrangement I provide a
small knob or ball d, on the opposite corner of the flat shank to that
to which the crescent is fixed, which is sprung into the button hole after
the crescent is inserted.
Figure 7 shows enlarged views of another form of shirt stud on this
principle to be used when the button holes in the two halves of the front
are at right angles to one another. In this case there are two backs of
the form shown, but with their horns turned in opposite directions to
facilitate their insertion in the button holes. They are constructed
together by a flat shank 6, and to the head of the stud by a central
round pillar f.
Having described the nature of the said Invention and the manner of
performing the same, I declare that what I claim as the Invention to
be protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters.Patent is,—
-
1st. In a solitaire stud, or other such like article of jewellery or
fastening for dress I claim the combination of a flat shank or pillar (or

page_text: its equivalent a double shank or pillar) with a crescent-shaped back, or
a back of such other shape as to be inserted in the button hole by a
rotatory movement, substantially as herein shown and described.
2nd. Making the back and shank in one piece of metal, substantially
as herein described and shown in Figure 4 of the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Compton Weeks Jefferys,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-third day of
April, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
seventy-five.