IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND TRIMMING KNIT GOODS AND OTHER FABRICS AND IN FORMING MACHINERY FOR SEWING TRIMMING AND PURPOSES Communicated to him from WELTS OR HEMS THEREON AND IN WELTING HOSIERY AND FOR OTHER
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the
County of Middlesex Gentleman, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING AND TRIMMING KNIT GOODS AND OTHER FABRICS AND IN FORMING
MACHINERY FOR SEWING TRIMMING AND
PURPOSES Communicated to him from
WELTS OR HEMS THEREON AND IN
WELTING HOSIERY AND FOR OTHER
"
abroad by Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in the County and State
of New York United States of America
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 29th August 1882.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND TRIMMING KNIT GOODS AND OTHER
FABRICS AND IN FORMING WELTS OR HEMS THEREON AND IN MACHINERY FOR
SEWING TRIMMING AND WELTING HOSIERY AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES a com-
munication to me from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in
the County and State of New York United States of America
The Invention relates firstly to a combination with an overseam sewing machine
of a trimmer or trimming attachment arranged to act in advance of the over-
seaming mechanism and in the line of seam, so as, automatically and simultaneously
with the stitching, to trim off the surplus margin of the fabrics and leave them in
condition to be united by the overseaming mechanism.
This part of the Invention has for its object to enable a uniform neat and strong
seam with the margin securely bound down and entirely confined by the stitches
to be made upon knit and other goods, readily and without exceeding care on the
part of the operator; by means of an overseam sewing machine of any ordinary or
suitable construction.
In uniting the edges of fabrics and particularly of knit goods upon overseam
sewing machines great difficulty has been heretofore encountered in guiding and

page_text: holding the edges even and parallel for union by the overseaming mechanism, so
that the latter lays the stitches properly over or around the margin to be enclosed.
With machines making a zig zag stitch which will sew as well within the body
of the goods as at the edge, the difficulty has been partially obviated by trimming
the margin of the goods after the seam has been made but seans thus produced
have an unconfined raw edge and a wider margin than seams produced by over-
seaming devices working outside of the edge of the fabric, both of which features
are objectionable. Moreover other and more common forms of overseaming or
button hole machines, which employ a looper or overseaming device that is not
adapted to carry the thread through the cloth and the seams of which are
exceedingly well suited to the uniting of knit fabrics can only be employed on the
edges of the material.
In the present Invention the difficulty is entirely overcome by trimming the
goods automatically and simultaneously with the stitching mechanism, but in
advance of the needle before the stitching is performed. Ordinarily the edges of
all the layers to be united will be trimmed, but in some cases, as where one of the
edges is selvage a less number one or more may be trimmed.
As the result of the trimming operation the desired margin is left for the
over-seam and the edges where two or more layers of fabric are trimmed are even
and parallel and inasmuch as the trimming is performed after the goods have been
placed on the cloth plate and under the presser foot of the machine all that is
required is to avoid disarranging the same before the edges are secured by the
stitching mechanism. In order therefore to carry out this invention a trimming
attachment is combined with an overseaming machine and arranged in advance of
the needle so as to leave by trimming the proper width of margin.
To lessen the liability of disarrangement of the goods after trimming and before
sewing and to enable curved as well as straight seams to be sewed, the trimming
mechanism is arranged as close as may be to the needle and over-seaming
mechanism.
To guard against interference of the trimmed of strip with the overseaming
mechanism, means are provided for guiding said strip to one side :
The trimming mechanism may be of any suitable construction adapted to operate
on the fabric for which it is designed A vibratory or reciprocating knife working
through a slot in the cloth plate, a knife fixed to the cloth plate or presser foot,
a rotary disk knife turning on a concentric or on an eccentric axis, or a pair of
rotary shears could be used but preferably a pair of shears consisting of a vibratory
and a stationary cutter or blade is employed.
The invention relates secondly to a guide or system of guides for use in the
formation of welts or hems on knit goods and other fabrics, the said guides
being adapted automatically to fold and guide the fabric to the trimming and
overseam sewing mechanism combined and arranged as before set forth:
They are designed for use in making a hem or welt invisible or but little
apparent on the right side of the fabric and are adapted to guide the folded fabric
to the overseaming and trimming mechanism so that the needle passes through the
layer turned over to form the hem or welt and through the fold or double portion
of the goods leaving the margin of the turned over layer to project into the path of
the trimmer
Heretofore welting or hemming guides have been combined with an overseaming
sewing machine provided with an automatic trimmer or trimming attachment
arranged to trim the surplus margin after the sewing is completed In the present
Invention the guides being applied to an overseam sewing machine with trimming
attachment acting in advance of sewing modifications of the guides and a
reorganization of the apparatus generally are made in order that the said guides
and trimming mechanism may properly cooperate with each other and with the
overseam sewing mechanism. An important new feature is the arrangement of an
edge guide for the folded edge of the fabric alongside of the cutting portion of the
trimmer between the line of trimming and the line of needle punctures This edge

page_text: guide may be supported from above being formed on or applied to the presser bar
or presser foot of the sewing machine, or from below being attached to or formed
on the bed plate or the machine frame.
When the edge guide is supported from above the fold in the fabric lies
uppermost when from below the fold is beneath.
Preferably it is supported from beneath and consists of a projecting portion of
the stationary blade or cutter forming part of the trimming attachment the said
blade or cutter being made vertically adjustable to adapt it to goods of different
thickness and the presser foot being arranged to clamp the fabric on top of the
cutter.
With the edge guide arranged as above indicated is combined an overhanging
guide adapted to enter the folded fabric and to control or determine the depth of
the welt or hem.
The invention thirdly relates to particular constructions of trimming apparatus
and to special combinations of the various elements in the machine.
As already stated a shear trimmer is preferably employed wherein a vibratory
and a stationary blade or cutter are employed the two cooperating like the blades
of a pair of shears :
In the form of trimmer considered best adapted to the purpose the vibratory
blade is carried by a rock shaft back of the needle being connected with said shaft
by means of an arm extending past the needle and bent so as to be clear of the
overseaming device. The said rock shaft has a slight endwise movement and is
combined with a spring adapted to hold in contact the edges of the two blades or
cutters. The rock shaft is so disposed that the trimmed off portion or strip passes
over it and the diverting guide which wards the said portion or strip from the
overseaming device is extended so as to prevent its becoming entangled with the
arm which carries the vibratory cutter or blade The two cutters are held in place
by clamps which can readily be released to allow the said blades to be removed for
grinding or other purpose or to be adjusted.
In another form the arm or lever that carries the vibratory blade is fulcrumed
in front of the stitching mechanism :
I will describe the Invention as applied to an American button hole and overseam
sewing machine which is in common use
The trimming attachment comprises an upper vibratory blade or cutter and a
lower stationary blade or cutter the latter being adapted to serve also as an edge
guide for welting or hemming or for other purposes Both blades or cutters are in
front of the stitching mechanism.
The stationary blade fits in a groove in a clamp plate and is secured in position
between the said plate and a plate forming part of the machine frame. The clamp
plate is attached to the plate by a screw and a steady pin the screw exerting the
necessary pressure to hold the blade or cutter. By loosening the screw the said.
cutter may be set up or down or can be removed for sharpening or other purpose.
The edge farthest from the needle is the cutting edge
The vibratory blade or cutter is carried by an arm attached to the end of a rock
shaft which is journaled in bearings in the frame and is operated from an eccentric
on the under shaft through a link and arm. This rock shaft is capable of a slight
endwise movement and is combined with a spring which tends to move it in the
direction required for holding the edges of the two cutters or blades in contact.
These cutting edges are preferably made slightly oblique to each other so as to give
a lateral movement to the vibratory cutter at each stroke. This obliquity can be
secured by setting the upper blade at an angle to the line of feed or by setting the
stationary blade slightly oblique.
The moving blade or cutter consists of a flat plate ground at the end so as to
leave a cutting edge at one side and is secured to the arm preferably in an inclined
position so as to clear other parts of the machine. It fits in a dovetail groove in
the split head of the arm and is clamped by a screw acting to draw together the
sides of the head. By loosening the screw it can be adjusted vertically or can be

page_text: removed for sharpening or other purpose. The said arm is fixed on the projecting
end of the rock shaft behind the presser foot and is bent both vertically and
laterally so as to extend over a portion of the frame in which the rock shaft is
mounted and to clear or be out of the way of the overseaming devices. The frame
is inclined in front so that the trimmed off portion of the fabric will readily pass
up the incline and over the rock shaft. The presser foot in front of the needle is
of sufficient width to extend over the top of the stationary cutter so as to clamp
the fabric thereon. It is provided with a lateral finger which bears on the fabric
beyond the line of trimming and acts to uncurl and flatten out the edge to be
trimmed off. It is useful mainly in sewing cut knit goods the edges of which have
a tendency to curl. The curl if not taken out would interfere with the trimming
and overseam sewing operations
A shield or diverting guide has its forward end behind the cutter or blade and
extends past the overseaming mechanism and along the edge of the frame of the
rock shaft until near the top of the frame. It diverts the trimmed off portion not
only from the over seaming mechanism but also from the upright portion of the arm
of the cutter and prevents said portion from slipping over the end of the frame:
The upper or vibratory blade should be so adjusted that the heel or rear part
thereof will, when the cutter is at its highest position, extend below the top of the
stationary blade or cutter and interpose itself between the trimmed off portion and
the body of the goods and never uncover the front end of the diverting guide.
There is an opening in the throat plate to allow the upper blade to pass through :
The apparatus as hereinbefore described constitutes a very efficient combined
trimming and overseam sewing machine By setting down the stationary blade so
that its top is flush with the upper surface of the cloth or throat plate and properly
adjusting the upper blade in the head it may be used for uniting two or more
layers by an overseam and for trimming off the surplus material from both or all
of said layers.
In order that the stationary blade may serve as an edge guide it is made to
project above the cloth plate or throat plate. For making a welt or hem joining
two thicknesses the projecting portion should equal two thicknesses of the fabric
so that it will form a perfect guide for the folded edge while the third layer or
layer to be trimmed may extend over the top across the cutting edge By setting
the blade up or down the guiding edge (formed by the side of the projecting
portion) can be given the depth required for welting the different thicknesses of
the fabric:
It has been found advantageous in welting or hemming to have the guiding edge
for the folded material slightly oblique to the line of feed. By using as the
stationary Blade a flat plate with parallel edges and setting it slightly oblique to
the line of feed as before explained this advantage is secured together with the
advantage of an oblique cutting edge.
In connection with the edge guide formed by the stationary blade or cutter an
additional edge guide and an overhanging guide adapted to enter a fold in the
fabric are employed. The said edge guide is so secured in position on the cloth
plate that the stationary cutter or blade forms a continuation thereof:
In front of the presser foot the said edge guide has a raised or thickened portion
but opposite the toe of the presser foot the upper surface is cut away (preferably
on the curve of said toe) and descends leaving in front of the stationary blade or
cutter a portion equal in thickness to the projecting portion of the said blade or
cutter. In this thinner portion beneath the finger is a groove into which the said
finger may press the fabric in order to assist in taking out the curl. This groove
may be omitted or the finger may be made to extend below the bottom surface of
the presser foot so as to sink further into the groove and thus operate more
effectually. The overhanging guide forms part of a bent strip that is secured to the
edge guide a short distance from its edge
The outer end of the overhanging guide is preferably curved in a horizontal
plane and is brought into line with the guiding face of the stationary blade or

page_text: cutter and a portion of the edge guide is cut away opposite this point to allow
seams or thick portions of the goods to pass without difficulty:
The operation will be readily understood For hemming or welting the fabric is
folded first in one direction and then back to give three thicknesses at the edge
and is introduced under the presser foot with the outer folded edge against the
guiding face of the stationary blade or cutter and against the edge of the edge
guide and the free edge extends over into the path of the trimmer. The folded
portion of the goods is inserted above the overhanging guide with the folded edge
in contact with the bend in the bent strip and the end of the said guide against
the inner surface of the fold: The machine being started the guides automatically
direct the fabric to the trimmer which removes the surplus margin and to the
stitching mechanism which unites the upper layer to the fold the needle passing
through the fold so that the stitches will not show or will be but little apparent on
the right side of the fabric.
For plain sewing the edge and overhanging guides are removed the stationary
blade is set down the upper blade is adjusted if required and the two or more
layers of fabric to be united are introduced under the presser foot. The machine
being started the free edges that project into the path of the trimmer are removed
leaving the proper width of margin for the overseaming mechanism to operate
upon.
If it be desired to unite two layers of fabric and to trim one only it is obvious
that the stationary blade could be caused to project sufficiently to serve as a guide
for the uncut edge or if it be not desired to trim the fabric at all it could be made
to guide both edges. It might or might not be desirable in such cases to remove
the overhanging guide or both it and the edge guide. If it should be desirable to
have the line of trimming closer to or further from the line of needle punctures
this can be secured by using as the stationary blade plates of various width the
arrangement of the rock shaft permitting the necessary lateral adjustment of the
vibratory blade or cutter.
According to a modification the edge guide for the folded fabric instead of being
formed by the projecting end of the stationary cutter is independent of the
trimming mechanism. It may be attached to the presser bar of the sewing machine
or it may be made in one piece with the presser foot. The former arrangement is
preferred as it allows of adjustment. For this purpose the guide has a supporting
piece which is provided with a boss that encircles the presser bar and is secured
thereon by a set screw. By loosening the set screw the guide and its support can
be moved up and down so that the said guide projects more or less below the
presser foot, or they can be turned on the presser bar as a centre so as to move the
guide nearer to or further from the line of needle punctures-A vertical and a
lateral adjustment are thus secured-In both forms of edge guide shown the
operating part of the guide extends alongside of the cutting portion of the trimmer
between the line of trimming and the line of needle punctures, the said operating
part being thin so that the margin left need not be excessive Preferably also the
guiding edge is made oblique to the line of feed so as to crowd the fold towards
the needle It is arranged above the stationary cutter or blade so as to clamp the
fabric between itself and said blade or cutter.
There is an overhanging guide adapted to enter the fold in the fabric and to
determine or control the width of the welt or hem It is secured to the cloth plate.
For welting or hemming the fabric is folded as before explained with the outer
folded edge against the guide and the free edge projecting under the said guide
between the edges of the cutters. The depth of the guide below the presser foot
should be equal to two thicknesses of fabric so that the bottom of said guide will
bear upon the third or under layer of fabric-For fabrics of different thickness the
depth of the projecting portion can be increased or diminished by adjusting the
guide on the presser bar.
With thick goods it is desirable that the line of needle punctures should be

page_text: further from the folded edge than for thin goods-The arrangement permits a
lateral adjustment useful for this purpose.
With the edge guide integral with the presser foot a separate presser foot can be
used for each of the several grades of fabric, but this is not necessary for every
variation, for by adjusting the stationary blade up or down, the clamping of the
under layer can be secured.
After the fabric has been folded and inserted under the presser foot the machine
is started and the trimming and overseaming proceed simultaneously, the fabric
being automatically folded and guided thereto by the guides.
It is obvious that the stationary cutter or blade being adjustable can be used as
an edge guide in connection with the edge guide on the presser foot or presser bar,
should such use be desirable.
The following is a modified construction of the trimmer.
The overseam sewing machine is the same as that hereinbefore described.
The arm which carries the vibratory cutter or blade is pivotted to a standard
near the front edge of the cloth plate and is operated directly by a link the lower
end of which encircles the eccentric on the under shaft-The blade or cutter is
secured to the end of the arm by a screw and steady pin-Its edge works in
contact with the square edge of an opening the said edge serving as a stationary
cutting edge for the edge of the other blade to act against-A screw engaging in a
threaded hole in the standard bears at its point against the vibratory bar and
holds the two cutting edges in contact with each other
The diverting shield or guide may be formed of an upright curved piece of metal
as before described or it may be formed by the edge of the opening in the throat
plate which is enlarged to allow the trimmed off strip to pass downward under the
plate, this being its natural direction-It is obvious that an upright strip could be
placed around the opening in the throat plate.
The presser foot is cut away at the front to the right of the needle hole to allow
the cutter to operate in close proximity to the needle-If desired the blade or cutter
could be made to work in a slot in the presser foot.
The operation will be sufficiently evident from the former descriptions.
It is obvious that the guides described with regard to the hereinbefore last
modification could be applied to the machine without change and that in place of
having the blade working in contact with an edge of the throat plate, a stationary
blade could be provided for it to work against.
The American button hole machine is taken merely as a type of an overseaming
machine for the invention is applicable generally to the uniting of two or more
layers of fabric by overseaming mechanism and is not limited to any particular
style of seam. It may be used with single thread overseaming machines making an
overseam by means of a looper working over the edge of the goods and carrying
the needle loop from below around the edge into the path of the needle so as to
be penetrated by it at its next descent with zig zag sewing machines that make
an overseam by having the needle descend alternately right and left of a given
line, and generally with overseaming machines of every description :
As already pointed out, other styles of trimmer may be used instead of a shear
trimmer, and it is obvious that various modifications may be made in the
construction of the shear trimmers if these are to be employed.
In zig zag sewing machines in which the cloth plate has a lateral movement the
trimmer should be attached thereto so as to partake of that movement:
Modifications may be made in the details of construction without departing from
the spirit of the Invention and parts thereof may be used separately. For
example the stationary blade is made to serve as an edge guide; but a similar
plate not adapted to serve as a cutter could be used, an additional plate for a
cutter being employed if a shear trimmer is desired and the vibratory blade
working between the two plates-A thin extension of the edge guide might be

page_text: made to project rearward between the line of trimming and the line of needle
punctures.
The guides may it will be evident be used with any suitable machine whether
overseaming or not, and with or without a trimmer attached.
The edge guide instead of being carried by the presser bar or presser foot, could
be supported from above either by attachment to the head of the machine, or by
an overlying plate attached to the cloth plate Instead of adjustably attaching the
edge guide to the presser bar, it could be attached to the presser foot by suitable
means which would permit the desired adjustments.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
26th February 1883.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND TRIMMING KNIT GOODS AND OTHER
FABRICS AND IN FORMING WELTS OR HEMS THEREON AND IN MACHINERY FOR
SEWING TRIMMING AND WELTING HOSIERY AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES a com-
munication to me from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox of New York City
in the County and State of New York United States of America
"
The Invention relates firstly to a combination with an overseam sewing
machine of a trimmer or trimming attachment arranged to act in advance of the
overseaming mechanism and in the line of seam, so as, automatically and
simultaneously with the stitching, to trim off the surplus margin of the fabrics
and leave them in condition to be united by the overseaming mechanism.
This part of the invention has for its object to enable an uniform neat and
strong seam, with the margin securely bound down and entirely confined by the
stitches to be made upon knit and other goods, readily and without exceeding care
on the part of the operator, by means of an overseam sewing machine of any
ordinary or suitable construction.
In uniting the edges of fabrics and particularly of knit goods upon overseam
sewing machines, great difficulty has been heretofore encountered in guiding and
holding the edges even and parallel for union by the overseaming mechanism so
that the latter lays the stitches properly over or around the margin to be enclosed.
With machines making a zig zag stitch which will sew as well within the body
of the goods as at the edge, the difficulty has been partially obviated by trimming
the margin of the goods after the seam has been made, but seams thus produced
have an unconfined raw edge and a wider margin than seams produced by over-
seaming devices working outside of the edge of the fabric, both of which features
are objectionable. Moreover other and more common forms of overseaming or
button hole machines which employ a looper or overseaming device that is not-

page_text: adapted to carry the thread through the cloth, and the seams of which are
exceedingly well suited to the uniting of knit fabrics can only be employed on
the edges of the material.
In the present Invention the difficulty is entirely overcome by trimming the
goods automatically and simultaneously with the stitching mechanism, but in
advance of the needle before the stitching is performed. Ordinarily the edges of
all the layers to be united will be trimmed, but in some cases, as where one of the
edges is selvage, a less number, one or more, may be trimmed.
As the result of the trimmning operation the desired margin is left for the over-
seam and the edges where two or more layers of fabric are trimmed are even and
parallel and inasmuch as the trimming is performed after the goods have been
placed on the cloth plate and under the presser foot of the machine all that is
required is to avoid disarranging the same before the edges are secured by the
stitching mechanism. In order therefore to carry out this invention a trimming
attachment is combined with an overseaming machine and arranged in advance of
the needle so as to leave by trimming the proper width of margin.
To lessen the liability of disarrangement of the goods after trimming and before
sewing, and to enable curved as well as straight seams to be sewed the trimming
mechanism is arranged as close as may be to the needle and overseaming
mechanism.
To guard against interference of the trimmed off strip with the overseaming
mechanism means are provided for guiding the said strip to one side.
The trimming mechanism may be of any suitable construction adapted to
operate on the fabric for which it is designed. A vibratory or reciprocating knife
working through a slot in the cloth plate, a knife fixed to the cloth plate or presser
foot, a rotary dish knife turning on a concentric or on an eccentric axis, or a pair of
rotary shears, could be used but preferably a pair of shears consisting of a vibratory
and a stationary cutter or blade is employed.
The invention relates secondly to a guide or system of guides for use in the
formation of welts or hems on knit goods and other fabrics, the said guides being
adapted automatically to fold and guide the fabric to the trimming and overseamn
sewing mechanism, combined and arranged as before set forth.
They are designed for use in making a hem or welt invisible or but little
apparent on the right side of the fabric and are adapted to guide the folded fabric
to the overseaming and trimming mechanism, so that the needle passes through the
layer turned over to form the hem or welt, and through the fold or double portion
of the goods leaving the margin of the turned over layer to project into the path
of the trimmer.
Heretofore welting or hemming guides have been combined with an overseaming
sewing machine provided with an automatic trimmer or trimming attachment
arranged to trim the surplus margin after the sewing is completed. In the present
invention the guides being applied to an overseam sewing machine with trimming
attachment acting in advance of sewing, modifications of the guides and a
reorganization of the apparatus generally are made in order that the said guides
and trimming mechanism may properly cooperate with each other, and with the
overseam sewing mechanism. An important new feature is the arrangement of an
edge guide for the folded edge of the fabric alongside of the cutting portion of the
trimmer between the line of trimming and the line of needle punctures. This
edge guide may be supported from above; being formed on or applied to the presser
bar or presser foot of the sewing machine, or from below being attached to or
formed, on the bed plate or the machine frame.
When the edge guide is supported from above the fold in the fabric lies upper-
most, when from below the fold is beneath. Preferably it is supported from beneath
and consists of a projecting portion of the stationary blade or cutter forming part
of the trimming attachment, the said blade or cutter being made vertically
adjustable to adapt it to goods of different thickness and the presser foot being
arranged to clamp the fabric on top of the cutter.

page_text: With the edge guide, arranged as above indicated, is combined an overhanging
guide adapted to enter the folded fabric and to control or determine the depth of
the welt or hem.
The invention thirdly relates to particular constructions of trimming apparatus
and to special combinations of the various elements in the machine. As already
stated a shear trimmer is preferably employed wherein a vibratory and a
stationary blade or cutter are employed the two cooperating like the blades of
a pair of shears.
In the form of trimmer considered best adapted to the purpose the vibratory
blade is carried by a rock shaft, back of the needle, being connected with the said
shaft by means of an arm extending past the needle and bent so as to be clear of
the overseaming device. The said rock shaft has a slight end wise movement and
is combined with a spring adapted to hold in contact the edges of the two blades
or cutters. The rock shaft is so disposed that the trimmed off portion or strip
passes over it and the diverting guide which wards the said portion or strip from
the overseaming device is extended so as to prevent its becoming entangled with
the arm which carries the vibratory cutter or blade. The two cutters are held in
place by clamps which can readily be released to allow the said blades to be
removed for guiding or other purpose, or to be adjusted.
In another form the arm or lever that carries the vibratory blade is fulcrumed
in front of the stitching mechanism. Other minor improvements will be herein-
after indicated.
In the accompanying drawings which form a part of this Specification figures 1
to 7 represent the trimming mechanism and the welting or hemming guides in
connection with the principal parts of an overseaming sewing machine sufficient to
illustrate the application of the trimmer and guides thereto.
Figures 8 and 9 illustrate the formation respectively of a welt or hem and of a
plain seam trimmed and overseamed. Figures 10 to 14 represent modified forms
of trimming mechanism without the welting or hemming guides, and figures 15 to
18 modified forms of the trimming mechanism without the welting or hemming
guides. The same letters indicate like parts in all the figures.
Referring to figures 1 to 9 figure 1 is a perspective view figure 2 a plan partly
in horizontal section figures 3 and 4 views in section in vertical planes parallel
with the feed movement on opposite sides of the needle and in elevation looking
in opposite directions, figures 5 and 6 sections in vertical planes at right angles to
the feed movement, figure 7 a detail view and figures 8 and 9 perspective views
illustrating the sewing and trimming of fabric.
Figures 1 to 5 shew the machine arranged for welting or hemming and figure 8
the welt or hem in process of formation, while figure 6 shews the machine as
arranged to make a plain seam such as illustrated in figure 9.
The machine shown is known as the American button hole and overseam sewing
machine and is in common use.
A is the cloth plate or work plate of the sewing machine, B the presser foot,
C the needle, C¹ the needle bar, D E overseaming devices operating conjointly with
the needle to form the stitches, F a vibratory cutter or cutting blade. F' a stationary
blade or cutter G a shield or guide for diverting the trimmed off portion to prevent
its interference with the operating mechanism.
H the main shaft of the machine.
I the take up. I' a tension and K. the feed bar. The needle bar is operated from a
cam (not shown) on the shaft through a lever C². The first overseaming device E
is carried by a sleeve E¹ journalled in the head of the machine and is vibrated
horizontally at each reciprocation of the needle bar by a pin C3 working in the
slot in said sleeve. The overseaming device D is carried by a lever D¹ and is
operated by the cam D on the shaft H.
The feed bar K is given the ordinary four motions by an eccentric K¹ on the
same shaft The take up I is operated by the lever C². As these parts and the
other elements of the sewing machine are of ordinary construction and form in
themselves no part of this invention being shown simply by way of example of an

page_text: overseam sewing machine, it is unnecessary here to give a detailed description of
their construction and operation. It may be well however briefly to indicate the
operation of forming a stitch, as follows.
Two threads are used, an upper thread which is lead from the spool through the
tension and take up and eye of the needle, and an under thread which is led from a
spool through a tension and the eye in the end of the device D. The needle passes
a loop of the upper thread through the fabric, the device D passes a loop of the
under thread through the first named loop and up past the edge of the fabric.
The device E catches the loop of the under thread and spreads it in the path of the
needle, which carries the next loop of the upper thread through it. Thus the
loops in the upper thread are locked below the fabric by loops in the under thread
which extend around the edge of the fabric and are themselves locked above the
fabric each by the next succeeding loop of the upper thread.
The throat plate A¹ is pierced at a for the passage of the needle, and at 6 for the
passage of the device D.
The trimming attachment comprises an upper vibratory blade or cutter F and a
lower stationary blade or cutter F¹ the latter being adapted to serve also as an edge
guide for welting or hemming or for other purposes. Both blades or cutters are in
front of the stitching mechanism.
The stationary blade F fits in a groove in the clamp plate L and is secured in
position between the said plate and the plate A² forming part of the machine
frame. The clamp plate is attached to the plate A² by a screw L' and a steady
pin L³ the screw exerting the necessary pressure to hold the blade or cutter F¹.
By loosening the screw the said cutter may be set up or down, or can be removed
for sharpening or other purpose. The right hand edge (figures 5 and 6) or edge
farthest from the needle is the cutting edge.
The vibratory blade or cutter F is carried by an arm e attached to the end of the
rock shaft M which is journaled in bearings in the frame N and is operated from an
eccentric on the shaft H through the link k pin k¹ and arm ². This rock shaft is
capable of a slight end wise movement and is combined with a spring P which tends
to move it in the direction required for holding the edges of the two cutters or
blades in contact. These cutting edges are preferably made slightly oblique to
each other so as to give a lateral movement to the vibratory cutter at each stroke.
This obliquity could be secured by setting the upper blade at an angle to the line
of feed, but as shown it is accomplished by setting the stationary blade slightly
oblique (see figures 2 and 7).
The blade or cutter F consists of a flat plate ground at the end so as to leave a
cutting edge at one side and is secured to the arm e preferably in an inclined
position (as in figures 1, 3 and 4) so as to clear other parts of the machine. It fits
in a dovetail groove in the split head e¹ of the arm e and is clamped by the screw e²
acting to draw together the sides of the head. By loosening the screw it can be
adjusted vertically or can be removed for sharpening or other purpose.
The arm e (see figures 1, 2, 3, 4) is fixed on the projecting end of the rock shaft
behind the presser foot, and is bent both vertically and laterally so as to extend
over a portion of the frame N and to clear or be out of the way of the overseaming
devices. The frame N is inclined in front so that the trimmed off portion of the
fabric will readily pass up the incline and over the rock shaft. The presser foot
in front of the needle is of sufficient width to extend over the top of the stationary
cutter so as to clamp the fabric thereon. It is provided with a lateral finger B₁
which bears on the fabric beyond the line of trimming and acts to uncurl and
flatten out the edge to be trimmed off. It is useful mainly in sewing cut knit
goods, the edges of which have a tendency to curl. The curl if not taken out would
interfere with the trimming and overseam sewing operations.
The shield or diverting guide G has its forward end behind the cutter or blade F
and extends past the overseaming mechanism and along the edge of frame N until
near the top of the frame.. It diverts the trimmed off portion not only from the

page_text: overseaming mechanism, but also from the upright portion of the arm e and prevents
said portion from slipping over the end of frame N.
The upper or vibratory blade should be so adjusted that the heel or rear part
thereof will, when the cutter is at its highest elevation, extend below the top of
the stationary blade or cutter and interpose itself between the trimmed of portion
and the body of the goods and never uncover the front end of the diverting
guide G. At c is an opening in the throat plate to allow the upper blade to pass
through.
The apparatus as thus far described constitutes a very efficient combined
trimming and overseam sewing machine. By setting down the stationary blade F¹
so that its top is flush with the upper surface of the cloth or throat plate and
properly adjusting the upper blade in the head e¹ it may be used for uniting two
or more layers by an overseam and for trimming off the surplus material from both
or all of the said layers as shewn in figures 6 and 9.
In order that the stationary blade may serve as an edge guide it is made to
project above the cloth plate or throat plate. For making a welt or hem such as
shewn in figure 8 the projecting portion should equal two thicknesses of the fabric,
so that it will form a perfect guide for the folded edge while the third layer, or
layer to be trimmed, may extend over the top across the cutting edge as shewn in
figure 5 By setting the blade up or down the guiding edge (formed by the side
of the projecting portion) can be given the depth required for welting the different
thicknesses of fabric.
It has been found advantageous in welting or hemming to have the guiding
edge for the folded material slightly oblique to the line of feed. By using as the
stationary blade a flat plate with parallel edges and setting it slightly oblique to
the line of feed as before explained and as shown in figures 2 and 7 this advantage
is secured together with the advantage of an oblique cutting edge.
In connection with the edge guide formed by the stationary blade or cutter
an additional edge guide Q and an overhanging guide R adapted to enter a
fold in the fabric are employed. The guide Q is so secured in position on the
cloth plate that the stationary cutter or blade forms a continuation thereof.
In front of the presser foot the guide Q has a raised or thickened portion q but
opposite the toe of the presser foot the upper surface is cut away (preferably on
the curve of said toe) and descends leaving in front of the stationary blade or
cutter a portion q¹ equal in thickness to the projecting portion of the said blade
or cutter In this thinner portion beneath the finger B₁ is a groove q² into which
the said finger may press the fabric in order to assist in taking out the curl. This
groove may be omitted or the finger B¹ may be made to extend below the bottom
surface of the presser foot so as to sink further into the groove and thus operate
more effectually. The overhanging guide forms part of the bent strip R¹ that is
secured to the guide Q a short distance from its edge.
The outer end of the overhanging guide R is preferably curved in a horizontal
plane and is brought into line with the guiding face of the blade or cutter F¹ and
the portion q of the guide Q is cut away opposite this point to allow seams or
thick portions of the goods to pass without difficulty.
The operation will be readily understood. For hemming or welting, the fabric
is folded as in figures 5 and 8 and is introduced under the presser foot B with the
folded edge m against the guiding face of the stationary blade or cutter F¹ and
against the edge of guide Q and the free edge n extends over into the part of the
trimmer. The folded portion of the goods is inserted above the guide R with the
folded edge p in contact with the bend in the strip R¹ and the end of the guide R
against the inner surface of the fold m. The machine being started the guides
automatically direct the fabric to the trimmer which removes the surplus margin n,
and to the stitching mechanism which unites the upper layer to the fold m the
needle passing through the fold so that the stitches will not show or will be but
little apparent on the right side of the fabric.

page_text: I
For plain sewing the guides Q R are removed the blade F¹ is set down the
upper blade is adjusted if required. and the two or more layers of fabric to be
united are introduced under the presser foot. The machine being started the free
edges n that project into the path of the trimmer are removed leaving the proper
width of margin for the overseaming mechanism to operate upon.
If it is desired to unite two layers of fabric and to trim one only, it is obvious
that the stationary blade could be caused to project sufficiently to serve as a guide
for the uncut edge or if it is not desired to trim the fabric at all it could be made
to guide both edges. It might or might not be desirable in such cases to remove
the guide R or both it and the guide Q. If it should be desirable to have the line
of trimming closer to or further from the line of needle punctures this can be
secured by using as the stationary blade, plates of various width the arrangement
of the rock shaft permitting the necessary lateral adjustment of the vibratory
blade or cutter.
Referring to Figures 10 to 14 which illustrate modified forms of welting or
lemming guides, figure 10 is an end view partly in vertical section figure 11 a plan
partly in horizontal section and figures 12. 13. and 14 vertical sections. The sewing
and trimming mechanism are in all respects the same as just described with
reference to Figures 1 to 7.
The edge guide for the folded fabric instead of being formed by the projecting
end of the stationary cutter F¹ is independent of the trimming mechanism. It is
lettered S and as shown in figures 10 to 12 is attached to the presser bar of the
sewing machine while in figure 14 it is represented as made in one piece with the
presser foot. The arrangement shown in figures 10 to 12 is preferred as it allows of
adjustment. For this purpose the guide S has a supporting piece S¹ which is
provided with a boss s that encircles the presser bar and is secured thereon by a
set screw s² By loosening the set screw the guide S and its support can be moved
up and down so that the said guide projects more or less below the presser foot or
they can be turned on the presser bar as a centre so as to move the guide nearer to
or further from the line of needle punctures. A vertical and a lateral adjustment
are thus secured. In both forms of edge guide shown the operating part of the
guide extends alongside of the cutting portion of the trimmer between the line of
trimming and the line of needle punctures the said operating part being thin so
that the margin lift need not be excessive Preferably also the guiding edge is made
oblique to the line of feed so as to crowd the fold towards the needle. It is arranged
above the stationary cutter or blade so as to clamp the fabric between itself and
said blade or cutter.
R is an overhanging guide adapted to enter the fold in the fabric and to determine
or control the width of the welt or hem as shewn in Figure 13. It is secured to the
cloth plate.
For welting or hemming, the fabric is folded as shown in Figures 12, 13 and 14
with the folded edge m against the guide S and the free edge n projecting under
the said guide between the edges of the cutters F F'. The depth of the guide S
below the presser foot should be equal to two thicknesses of fabric so that the
bottom of the said guide will bear upon the third or under layer of fabric For
fabrics of different thickness the depth of the projecting portion can be increased
or diminished by adjusting the guide on the presser bar (when the arrangement
shown in figures 10 to 12 is adopted.)
With thick goods it is desirable that the line of needle punctures should be
further from the folded edge than for thin goods. The arrangement shown in
Figures 10 to 12 permits a lateral adjustment useful for this purpose.
With the
edge guide integral with the presser foot as shown in Figure 14 a separate presser
foot can be used for each of the several grades of fabric but this is not necessary
for every variation for by adjusting the stationary blade up or down the clamping
of the under layer can be secured although the depth of the guiding edge may be
somewhat more or less than it should be.

page_text: After the fabric has been folded and inserted under the presser foot the
machine is started and the trimining and overseaming proceed simultaneously the
fabric being automatically folded and guided thereto by the guides R, S.
It is obvious that the stationary cutter or blade F¹ being adjustable can be used
as an edge guide in connection with the edge guide on the presser foot or presser
bar should such use be desirable.
Referring to Figures 15 to 18 which represent modified constructions of the
trimmer, Figure 15 is a plan view partly in horizontal section. Figure 16 a vertical
section in the plane of the feed movement Figure 17 a vertical section in a
plane transverse to that of the feed movement and Figure 18 a plan of an extra
throat plate.
The overseam sewing machine is the same as that shown in the other figures.
The arm e which carries the vibratory cutter or blade F is pivoted to the
standard f near the front edge of the cloth plate and is operated directly by the
link k the lower end of which encircles the eccentric on the shaft H. The blade
or cutter is secured to the end of the arm by a screw and steady pin. Its edge
works in contact with the square edge g of the opening c the said edge serving as
a stationary cutting edge for the edge of the blade F to act against. A screw h
engaging in a threaded hole in the standard f bears at its point against the
vibratory bar E and holds the two cutting edges in contact with each other.
The shield or guide G as shown in figures 15, 16 and 17 is formed of an upright
curved piece of metal as in Figures 1 to 13. As represented in Figure 18 it is
formed by the edge of the opening c in the throat plate which is enlarged to allow
the trimmed off strip to pass downward under the plate this being its natural
direction. It is obvious that an upright strip could be placed around the opening
in the throat plate A¹.
The presser foot B is cut away at the front to the right of the needle hole to
allow the cutter F to operate in close proximity to the needle. If desired the
blade or cutter F could be made to work in a slot in the presser foot.
The operation will be sufficiently evident from former descriptions.
It is obvious that the guides S and R as shown in Figures 10 to 14 could be
applied to the machine without change and that in place of having the blade F
working in contact with an edge of the throat plate, a stationary blade such as
shown in Figures 1 to 14 could be provided for it to work against.
The American Button hole machine is represented and described merely as a
type of an overseaming machine.
The Invention is applicable generally to the uniting of two or more layers of
fabric by overseaming mechanisin and is not limited to any particular style of
seam. It may be used with single thread overseaming machines making an
overseam by means of a looper working over the edge of the goods and carrying
the needle loop from below around the edge into the path of the needle so as to be
penetrated by it at its next descent with zig zag sewing machines that make an
overseam by having the needle descend alternately right and left of a given line
and generally with overseaming machines of every description.
As already pointed out other styles of trimmer may be used instead of a shear
trimmer and it is obvious that various modifications may be made in the construc-
tion of the shear trimmers if these are to be employed.
In zig zag sewing machines in which the cloth plate has a lateral movement the
trimmer should be attached thereto so as to partake of that movement. Modifica-
tions may be made in the details of construction without departing from the spirit
of the Invention and parts thereof may be used separately. For example the
stationary blade is made to serve as an edge guide but a similar plate not adapted
to serve as a cutter could be used, an additional plate for a cutter being employed
if a shear trimmer is desired, and the vibratory blade working between the two
plates. A thin extension of the guide Q might be made to project rearward between
the line of trimming and the line of needle punctures.
The guides are believed to be new in themselves as well as in connection with

page_text: an overseaming and trimming machine and they may evidently be used with
any suitable machine whether overseaming or not and with or without a trimmer
attached.
The edge guide instead of being carried by the presser bar or presser foot could
be supported from above either by attachment to the head of the inachine or by an
overlying plate attached to the cloth plate. Instead of adjustably attaching the
edge guide to the presser bar it could be attached to the presser foot by suitable
means which would permit the desired adjustments.
Having now fully described the said Invention and the manner of carrying the
same into effect what I claim is
First The method and means herein described for making on knit goods and
other fabric a neat seam of overseam stitches by continuously and automatically
trimming the fabric after insertion under the presser foot in advance of the
overseaming operation and within the width of the overseam substantially as set
forth.
Second. In combination with an overseam sewing machine a trimmer arranged
to act in advance of the stitching mechanism substantially as described.
Third The combination with overseam stitching mechanism of a trimmer
arranged to act in advance of the said mechanism and a shield or guide for
diverting the trimmed off strip away from the overseaming mechanism substan-
tially as described.
Fourth-The method and means berein described of forming a welt or hem on
knit goods and other fabric by folding guiding and trimming the same and uniting
the layers with overseam stitches substantially as described.
Fifth The combination with an overseam sewing machine and a trimmer
arranged to act in advance of the stitching mechanism and in the line of the seam,
of a welting or hemming guide for guiding a folded fabric so that the needle will
pass through the fold substantially as described.
Sixth The combination of the sewing machine a trimmer acting in advance of
the stitching mechanism and an edge guide extending alongside of the cutting
portion of the said trimmer between the line of trimming and the line of the needle
punctures substantially as described.
Seventh. The combination of the sewing machine a trimmer having a blade or
cutter arranged to act in advance of the said mechanism an edge guide extending
alongside of the said blade or cutter and an overhanging guide substantially as
described.
Eighth The combination with a trimmer of an edge guide extending alongside of
the cutting portion of the said trimmer and adapted to guide the fold of a welt or
hem and to allow the turned over layer to extend beyond it substantially as
described.
Ninth In combination with a sewing machine an edge guide supported from
below and vertically adjustable so as to project more or less above the cloth plate
or throat plate of the machine substantially as described.
Tenth The Combination with an edge guide of a presser foot extending over the
top of the said guide so as to clamp thereon the overlying fabric substantially as
described.
Eleventh. The Combination with the sewing machine a trimmer arranged to act
in advance of the stitching mechanism and a device for uncurling the edges of knit
goods and similar fabric in advance of trimming substantially as described.
Twelfth In a combined sewing and trimming machine an upright projecting
cutter or blade adapted to serve as an edge guide as well as to cooperate in severing
the fabric substantially as described.
Thirteenth-The combination of the overseam sewing machine the stationary
cutter or blade in front of the said mechanism formed of a thin plate and adapted
to serve as an edge guide and the vibratory cutter arranged to cooperate with the
stationary cutter substantially as described.
Fourteenth In a combined sewing and trimming machine the upright cutter or

page_text: blade set in advance of the stitching mechanism and slightly oblique to the line of
feed substantially as described.
Fifteenth. The combination with a guide of a blade or cutter arranged to form a
continuation of the said guide substantially as described.
Sixteenth The combination of the overhanging guide the edge guide the
stationary blade or cutter forming a continuation of the said edge guide and the co-
operating vibratory cutter substantially as described.
Seventeenth-In an overseam sewing and trimming machine the combination of
the rock shaft supported back of the stitching mechanism the vibratory cutter or
blade in front of the said mechanism and the connecting arm bent so as to clear the
overseaming device substantially as described.
Eighteenth-The combination with an overseam sewing machine of a trimmer
arranged to act in advance of the stitching mechanism and in the line of the
seam and comprising a vibratory cutter carried by a rock shaft substantially as
described.
Nineteenth-The overseam sewing machine and a trimmer arranged to act in
advance of the stitching mechanism and comprising a shaft disposed so that the
trimmed off portion or strip may pass over the said shaft in combination with a
diverting guide forwarding the said trimmed off portion or strip away from the
stitching mechanism and for assisting its passage over the said shaft substantially
as described.
Twentieth-The vertically adjustable edge guide for a sewing machine having
its guiding edge or face oblique to the line of feed substantially as described.
Twenty-first-A welting or hemming machine comprising in combination with
sewing mechanism and a trimmer arranged to act in advance of said mechanism an
overhanging guide adapted to enter a fold and to determine or control the width of
a welt or hem and a folded edge guide having its guiding edge continued alongside
of the cutting portion of the trimmer substantially as described.
Twenty-second. The combination with a vertically adjustable stationary cutter
or blade of a presser foot projecting over the top of the said blade substantially as
described.
Twenty-third The combination with an overseam sewing machine of a cutter
capable of lateral adjustment carried by a rock shaft and arranged to act in
advance of the overseaming mechanism and in the line of the seam substantially as
described.
Twenty-fourth-In a combined sewing and trimming machine the vertically
adjustable stationary cutter or blade substantially as described.
Twenty-fifth-The combination in a trimmer with the vibratory cutter or blado
of a vertically adjustable cooperating cutter or blade substantially as described.
Twenty-sixth-The combination with overseam sewing mechanism and a trimmer
arranged to act in advance of the said mechanism of an edge guide supported from
above and adapted to allow fabric to extend under the same into the path of the
said trimmer substantially as described.
Twenty-seventh-The combination with overseam sewing mechanism and a
trimmer arranged to act in advance of the said mechanism of an edge guide carried
by the presser bar or presser foot of the sewing machine and extending alongside of
the cutting portion of the said trimmer between the line of trimming and the line
of needle punctures substantially as described.
Twenty-eighth-The combination with an overhanging guide adapted to enter a
fold and supported on the cloth plate of an edge guide carried by the presser bar
or presser foot substantially as described
Twenty-ninth-A vertically adjustable edge guide carried by the presser foot or
presser bar of the sewing machine and arranged above a clamping surface on the
cloth or throat plate substantially as described
Thirtieth-The combination with the trimming mechanism of an overhanging
guide adapted to enter a fold and an edge guide supported from above and adapted

page_text: to allow fabric to extend under the same into the path of the trimmer substantially
as described.
Thirty-first-The combination with the stationary cutter or blade of a presser
foot and an edge guide extending below the said foot and adapted to clamp the
fabric between itself and the said cutter or blade substantially as described.
Thirty-second-A vertically and laterally adjustable edge guide substantially as
described.
Thirty-third-The combination with a sewing machine of an overhanging guide
adapted to enter a fold an edge guide carried by the presser bar or presser foot of
the sewing machine and a trimmer arranged to act in advance of the stitching
mechanism substantially as described.
Thirty-fourth-The combination with a presser foot and an edge guide projecting
below the bottom thereof of a vertically adjustable plate beneath the said edge
guide substantially as described.
Thirty-fifth-The combination with the sewing mechanism and the trimmer
arranged to act in advance of the said mechanism of an edge guide separate from
the trimming mechanism and arranged alongside the cutting portion thereof
between the line of trimming and the line of needle punctures substantially as
described.
Thirty-sixth-The combination with an overseam sewing machine of a vibratory
cutter carried by an arm or lever fulcrumed in front of the needle substantially as
described.
Thirty-seventh-The combination with a sewing machine trimmer of a throat or
cloth plate provided with an opening to allow the trimmed off portion or strip to
pass below the plate substantially as described.
In witness whereof I the said John Henry Johnson have to this my
Specification set my hand and seal this twenty fourth day of February
One thousand eight hundred and eighty three.
J. HENRY JOHNSON (L.S.)