Improvements in Machines for Sewing Buttons on to Garments or Fabrics.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 7th July, 1898-Accepted, 4th Feb., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Sewing Buttons on to Garments or
Fabrics.
We, WILLIAM TAYLOUR THOMSON, Sewing Machine Merchant, and WILLIAM EDWARD
GOODYEAR, Sewing Machine Mechanic, both of 124, Queen Street, in the city of
Glasgow, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
This invention relates to sewing machines for sewing buttons on to garments or
fabrics and it has for its object to provide a machine of that class in which the
buttons shall be automatically delivered, picked up singly and clamped in such a
position over the fabric that in the sewing operation the sewing needle, which has a
cross-stitching movement, may freely enter the thread holes in the button.
The improved sewing machine is so designed that upon completion of the operation
of sewing on the button the stitching mechanism is automatically thrown out of
action and motion is imparted to the devices for delivering picking up, and clamping
the button in position for the sewing operation. The invention further comprises
improvements in various parts of details of mechanism applicable to this class of
inachine and hereinafter described.
The invention is illustrated by the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 being a side
elevation, Figure 2 a plan, Figures 3 and 4 front end and back end elevations
respectively, and Figure 5 an inverted plan of the improved sewing machine.
Figure 6 is a side elevation partly in section of the button delivering device and
Figures 7 and 8 front elevation and plan respectively of the same with the cover of
the button race removed. Figure 9 is a plan and Figure 10 an elevation of the
mechanism for imparting the cross stitch to the needle. Figures 11 and 12 are end
and side elevations respectively of the cam which effects the reversal of the motion
of the needle and of the cam which by the action on it of a pawl stops the sewing
operation. Figures 13 and 14 are detail views of two forms of the pawl for engaging
the locking cam and used in the machine according as the button has four or only
two thread holes. Figure 15 is an end elevation of the device for effecting the
engagement and disengagement of the button feeding and delivering devices.
Figure 16 is a vertical section of the parts comprising the button delivering arm and
clamp freeing device. Figure 17 is a front elevation and Figure 18 a vertical section
of a modified form of button race intended for use with flat sided buttons. Figure 19
shows to a larger scale a button having a convex back, and Figure 20 a flat disc
shaped button. Figure 21 shows the parts of the mechanism for effecting the
longitudinal stitching in the position in which these parts are secured when buttons
having only two holes are to be sewn.
The improved sewing machine may be of the Wheeler and Wilson or other type in
which a cross-stitching movement is imparted to the needle or to the fabric under it,
the improvements being in the main added thereto.
The buttons are supplied through a hopper placed over the bel plate A and which
when the buttons Bare of flat disc shape as at Figure 20, the hopper may consist of
a plain tube A' as shown at Figures 17 and 18 in which the buttons B are inserted

page_text: by hand or strung upon a thread and inserted by entering the buttons B at the
upper end of the tube whilst holding both ends of the thread and drawing the lower
end down the slit in the tube A¹. The buttons B are delivered singly through an
orifice E¹ in the bottom of the tube normally closed by a sliding or pivoted gate E
such as shown at Figures 1, 2, 3, 6, 7 and 8, which is pressed aside by a swinging
button carrier F which takes up and delivers the button to the jaws G, G¹, of a clamp
situated over the needle plate H. For the delivery of buttons C having convex backs
as at Figure 19, such as are commonly sewn on to garments a delivery hopper I of
special construction is employed to ensure delivery of the buttons C with the proper
side uppermost. This hopper I is composed of an inclined hollow casing shown at
Figs. 1, 2 and 3, and particularly at Figures 6, 7 and 8, into the upper end 11 of
which the buttons C are preferably fed singly, by means of a tapered or cylindrical
casing J in which the buttons are carried. The tapered or cylindrical casing has at
its larger or outer end a passage J¹ constructed as shewn in various positions at
Figures 1, 2, 3, 6 and 8, so that it will only permit one button at a time to pass into
the hopper I the others which may have entered the inner end of the passage J¹
being thrown back by the continued rotation of the cylinder J, because of the peculiar
formation of the passage J which is divided by a web JS (Fig. 1) and turns back
upon itself so that the inlet mouth and the delivery mouth both open in the same
direction. As shewn by the dotted lines (Figure 1), one of the buttons has been
carried by the rotation of the casing J approximately to the bottom of the passage J¹
and rests upon the upper end of the division web J8 in a position in which owing to
the rotation of the casing J it is just tilting into the delivery end of said passage, at
which moment the other buttons are caused to fall backwards into the casing J, as
. none of them have reached the end of the web J8. The end of the hopper I is
funnel-shaped or formed with a contracted neck or narrow passage I2 adapted to
admit only one button on edge as delivered from the passage J₁ of the cylindrical
casing J. At the lower end of this contracted neck part 12 the casing widens and is
formed with a central fin I³ expanding and flattening as it descends and which
divides the casing I at its mid part into two separate channels, the object of the
fin 13, which has a forwardly inclined edge sloping outwards and downwards from the
centre of the casing, being to direct the entering button C to either side but with
the concave back of the button towards the fin, as shown at Figures 6, 7 and 8. By
resting against the fin 13 in its descent the button entering on edge is gradually laid
over on its back and passes out of the widened part of the casing through a flattened
tubular part 15, common to both channels, to the delivery end E with the convex
back downwards or next to the fabric to which it is to be sewn.
Through the gate E at the lower end of the hopper I the button is delivered to the
button carrier F which is formed by a horizontally swinging lever whose end carries
a rotating or oscillating disc F1 having two or more upwardly projecting prongs.
These prongs are adapted to enter the holes formed in the button C and in order to
ensure that the prongs may enter the holes in the button so as to properly position it
when engaged by the button clamp the disc F¹ is rotated or oscillated whilst it remains
under the delivery orifice E¹ of the hopper, but is brought to rest with the button
holes in the proper position as the carrier F is swung round towards the button clamp
under the needle K in the needle bar K¹. Rotation or oscillation of the pronged
dise is effected by means of suitable gearing from any convenient rotating shaft or
other moving part of the sewing machine mechanism, such as the fork L on the
shaft engaging an arm L2 on a toothed quadrant L³ centred at L' which in
turn engages a pinion F2 on the centre of which the pronged disc F is secured, the
shaft L being oscillated by means of a quadrant L at its upper end actuated by a
cam in the machine arın. This cam may be of any ordinary form employed to
effect the cross stitching movement in button sewing, overseaming and similar
machines, and acts through the quadrant 15 and a connecting rod 1 on a crank arm L'
on a vertical shaft L upon which an eccentric L is keyed which imparts motion
to the bearings L10 of the needle bar K¹..

page_text: The swinging button carrier F, which is operated through a suitable lever, such
as F3, keyed upon the vertical spindle F to which the carrier F is attached and a
connecting rod M from a crank or eccentric N on a shaft O brought into operation
only when the sewing mechanism is stopped, delivers the button into the jaws G, G¹,
of the button clamp, the frame G³ of which is carried on centres G2 by crank arms Gi
extending from a rocking shaft G³ so as to be capable of rising slightly above the
fabric and of being pressed down on to the latter. The clamp jaws G, G¹, are capable
of adjustment to bring buttons of varying sizes centrally under the needle. One
jaw G of the clamp is fixed to its carrying frame G3 and the other G¹ is secured to a
sliding rod Go in the swinging frame which rod is pressed forward by a spring G7 so
that the button is held between the jaws G, G, in grooves formed therein.
The frame G³ has a movement longitudinally of the bed plate A communicated to
it synchronously with the cross stitching through a connecting rod G³ which engages
it at its centre G2 whilst the other end of the rod G³ engages a slotted quadrant L"
on the vertical shaft L1 receiving its motion from the cam before mentioned situated
in the arm of the machine which effects the cross stitching motion of the needle
bar K', so that the combination of these two motions produces a diagonal stitch.
The other stitch which is to cross the first stitch at right angles is obtained by the
same combination of motions, the rod Gs being first traversed to the other end of the
slotted quadrant L" in the same manner as the reversal of the links in valve gear.
This reversal of the rod G³ is effected by a link V connected to the rod (8 and to a
lever V on a vertical shaft V2 on the lower end of which a kicker V3 is secured which
engages a face cam T5 on a shaft T and this kicker V³ according to the depth of the
notch which it engages on the cam T5 brings the lever G8 to either end of the
slotted quadrant or to the mid position, the latter position being attained at
the end of the sewing operation immediately before the new button is carried from
the hopper to the clamp.
As the swinging button carrier F delivers the button C into the jaws G, G¹, a
catch lever F (Figures 1, 2, 3 and 16) secured by a spring to the vertical spindle F+
and operated by its movement slips clear of a pivoted tumbler G and lets free the
clamp frame G3 which is drawn upwards by a spring (10, the tumbler having a lower
arm G which acts to hold back the rod Go and at the same time as the clamp
frame is released allows the sliding rod Go to spring forward and clamp the button,
the clamp thereafter lifting the button off the prongs on the carrier F which is then
free to be carried by the continued action of the crank disc N, rod M. and lever F³
back into its position under the delivery orifice E¹ of the hopper I containing the
buttons C where by pressing aside the sliding gate E it receives a fresh button.
The garment or fabric being placed in position on the needle plate H the button
clamp is depressed by means of a treadle and connecting links P, P1, and lever Q,
the link P being connected to the clamp frame G³ or depressed by other means and
is there held during the stitching operation. The depression of the treadle and
lever which is situated on a shaft R also effects the starting of the sewing
mechanism by withdrawing a brake or catch lever Q1 (Figures 1, 2, 4 and 5) which
also acts as a belt shifter, from a notch in the needle driving pulley S¹ which is
fast on the main shaft S2, by means of mechanism such as a lever R¹ on the back
end of the shaft R, a connecting rod R² attached to said lever R¹ and a guide
lever R attached to the rod R2, and to the lever Q', this action also serving to
transfer the belt X from the loose or button feeding pulley S to the fast or needle
driving pulley $¹. The same action of the treadle further serves to withdraw a stop
lever R from engagement with a notch in a drum R5 (of which there may be an
interchangeable series) on a slowly rotated shaft T (Figures 1, 5, 11 and 12) operated
through a ratchet wheel T" on said shaft which is actuated by a pawl T2 on the
crank arm T of a rocking shaft T3 in turn actuated by means of a fork T* from
an eccentric U on the shuttle driving shaft U1, and whilst the said stop lever R*
rests on the periphery of the rotating drum R5 the belt shifter and other parts are
maintained in such a position that the main shaft S² of the sewing machine continues
in operation and the button clamp presses down upon the fabric but when by the

page_text: rotation of the drum R the notch or a separate notch in it is reached the stop
lever R drops therein and by the consequent turning movement of the shaft R due
to the action of the inclined portion RP of the stop lever R, Figs. 11 and 13 on the
notch of the drum R5, and the consequent movement of the connecting levers R, R³,
and R2 the brake or catch lever Q₁ comes into position to stop the sewing operation
and the belt is transferred to the button feeding pulley S, the button clamp being
simultaneously drawn upwards by the action of the spring G10. The position or
number of notches in the drum R³ or drums and the speed at which the drum shaft T
is fed thus determine the length of time during which the sewing may proceed or
the number of stitches to be put through the button.
Upon the stopping of the sewing operation the engagement of the button feeding
devices takes place by the action of a lever R carrying a roller R at its free end and
connected by a rod Rs to the lever R¹, which lever R releases a spring arm J7 pivoted
on a disc J2 keyed on the shaft J³ carrying the tapered cylinder J, Figures 1, 2, 4
and 15, said arm J having upon it a pin J or clutch which is thus permitted to
engage a stud J on a pinion Jo loose on the shaft J³ which pinion is permanently in
gear with a pinion S3 on the loose driving pulley S. The shaft J3 has keyed upon it
a bevel wheel J3 which gears with a bevel wheel 01 on the upper end of the vertical
shaft O on which the disc N is keyed so that when the rotation of the shaft J³ is
effected by the engagement of the devices above described a button is fed into the
lower end of the hopper I to take the place of the button being delivered to the
clamping jaws G, G¹, and through the intervention of the shaft O, the disc N,
the link M, the lever F3 under the bed plate A are operated, the latter lever
operating the swinging button carrier F and also effecting the releasing of the clamp
frame G whereby the button last delivered from the hopper and held by the pronged
disc on the button carrier is transferred to the clamping jaws, and raised clear of the
pronged disc F¹.
The machine may be adjusted so as to sew on to the fabric either four holed buttons or
buttons having only two holes. When adjusted to sew buttons having four holes,
the stop lever R illustrated at Figure 13 is used, this stop lever engaging the
drun K; but when the buttons to be sewn on to the fabric have two holes only the
stop lever is of the form shewn at Figure 14 and it is slid along the shaft R so as to be
opposite to and engage with a notched drum R' adjoining the drum R5. In this
latter case it is also necessary to throw the kicker V³ out of engagement with the
cam 15 and bring the lever G³ to the mid position so that the clamp frame G³ will
receive no motion, this being effected by the aid of a stop piece W pivoted on the
bed plate as shewn at Figure 21.
Instead of making the previously described adjustment in order to adapt the
machine for sewing on buttons having two holes only the connecting rod L may be
moved along the quadrant L until the centre of said rod coincides with the
centre of the vertical shaft, L. By this adjustment the bearings of the needle bar
receive no motion and the frame G³ having the movement previously described
imparted to it, the two thread holes of the button are brought alternately under the
needle as it rises and falls.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is:-
1. A sewing machine the parts of which are constructed, combined and arranged
to operate substantially as described for sewing buttons on to garments or
fabrics.
2. In a machine for sewing buttons on to fabrics a button supplying device
composed of a tapered or cylindrical rotating casing having an outlet passage so
constructed as to permit only a single button to pass outwards at each revolution
substantially as described.
3. In a machine for sewing buttons on to fabrics a button feedine hopper having a

page_text: duplex channel formed with a central fin adapted to turn the button to bring its face
or right side up substantially as described.
4. The combination with a button feeding hopper of the kind referred to in the
preceding claim of a delivery orifice provided with a hinged gate adapted to retain
and deliver the button substantially as described.
5. In a machine for sewing buttons on to fabrics the combination with a button
supply cylinder rotated periodically to deliver single buttons, of a feeding hopper
adapted to receive the button and turn it with its face upwards and having a
delivery orifice with a hinged gate to retain the button substantially as
described.
6. In a machine for sewing buttons on to fabrics the arrangement of a button
carrying lever operated to transfer the buttons singly from the feeding devices to a
button holding clamp under the sewing needle, the said lever being provided with a
pronged disc so oscillated as to bring the prongs into engagement with the holes in
the button and to properly position it in the holding clamp substantially as
described.
7. The combination of the button carrying lever having a rotating or oscillating
pronged disc adapted to engage a button, devices such as the pinion F2 and
quadrant L³, for rotating or oscillating the disc, means such as the lever Fs for
swinging said button carrier and button clamp operated to close on and hold the
button delivered to it by the carrier substantially as described.
8. In a machine for sewing buttons on to fabrics the combination of a button
clamp having grooved clamping jaws adapted to close on and hold a button and
mechanism for moving said clamp longitudinally and synchronously with the cross
stitching inovement of the needle substantially as described.
9. In a machine for sewing buttons on to fabrics the combination with the main
shaft and a fast pulley thereon for operating the sewing mechanism of a loose pulley
on said shaft arranged to operate the devices for feeding and transferring the buttons
to the button clainp and a belt shifter actuated from a treadle to start the stitching
operation and from the sewing mechanism to shift the driving belt to the loose
pulley to bring into operation the button feeding devices substantially as
described.
WALLACE
FAIRWEATHER,
Of the Firm of Cruikshank & Fairweather, Chartered Patent Agents,
62, Saint Vincent Street, Glasgow, Agent for the Applicants.