An Improved Process of Producing Crinkled Effects on Silk and Mixed Silk and other Threads and Fabrics
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Mar., 1695
Complete Specification Left, 1st July, 1895-Accepted, 3rd Aug., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Process of Producing Crinkled Effects on Silk and
Mixed Silk and other Threads and Fabrics.
We, CHARLES DEPOULLY and PAUL DEPOULLY, both of 63, Rue des Martyrs,
Paris, France, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
It has been found that silk filaments, whether in the form of threads, hanks, or
fabrics, when subjected to the action of acids under certain conditions become
shortened, the effect being dependent upon the degree of concentration of the acid
employed, the temperature of the bath, and the duration of the immersion or
impregnation, and it is only by suitably regulating these several factors, viz. :-
concentration, temperature, and time, that the desired result can be attained in
practice.
In carrying our improved process into effect, we operate in the following manner :-
The silk threads or fabrics, in any condition, (viz. raw, ungummed, or boiled-off,)
are immersed in the acid bath until the desired shortening effect is obtained, and
then washed. The density of the acid, the temperature of the bath, and the time
of immersion, are determined according to the magnitude of the effect it is desired
to produce, these conditions varying according to the nature of the acid employed.
The degree of concentration of the acid proper to produce the required effect upon
the silk should be carefully determined for each acid, as it is only susceptible of
variation within very narrow limits. Thus, for example, an active acid will not
produce a useful effect if of too low a density, whatever may be the temperature
and period of immersion. On the other hand an acid of too high a density would
either burn the silk or fail to produce any useful effect, according as the temperature
is too high or too low.
As examples of the extreme limits of deviation allowable in the case of
sulphuric, hydrochloric, nitric, and ortho-phosphoric acids, we may mention the
following:-

page_text: The process may, as before mentioned, be applied to silk whether in the form of
threads or fabrics. In the first case the crinkled thread which results from the
action of the acids may be used in the manufacture of fabrics either alone or mixed
with other textile fibres.
In the case of fabrics the contraction of the silk threads interwoven therein
enables varied effects to be obtained, according to the mode of combination of the
silk and other threads in the warp and weft.
In the case of fabrics made wholly of silk the effect produced on the fabric and
consequently its final aspect, may be varied by the application of reserves upon
the fabric either by printing or otherwise.
For fabrics of mixed silk and other threads the effect would vary according to
their relative disposition in the fabric, but in any case it is the silk threads only
which are shortened by the process herein described, the other threads (such
as cotton, wool, etc.,) preserving their original length and forming a crinkled
surface.
Instead of steeping or immersing the fibres or fabrics in an acid bath, the acid
may be applied by printing any suitable pattern upon the fibre, thread, or fabric,
with an acid mixed with any suitable thickening material, the impression being
applied upon those parts which are to be contracted: The printed fibres or fabrics
are thereupon immediately subjected to the action of heat until the desired
contraction is obtained; after which they are washed and dried. The temperature
and period of heating, as well as: the strength of the acid' employed in the mixture,
would vary according to the nature and quantity of the thickener employed and
the strength and composition of the fabric. To the printing mixture may be added
metallic, salts, or coloring matters, for example, in the following proportions :-
A printing, mixture. containing: 5% of gum tragacanth and 45% of real' ortho-
phosphoric acid, printed on silk tulle and afterwards subjected to a temperature
of 38 degrees C. for from 3 to 7 minutes, gives good results. With the same
composition a good effect is obtained on foulards, when exposed to a temperature
of 43 degrees C. for from 5 to 12 minutes. With a composition containing 30%
of gommelin 60% of real ortho-phosphoric acid, silk tulle should be subjected for
from 5 to 10 minutes to a temperature of 40 degrees C. and foulard for from 7 to
12 minutes, to a temperature of 43 degrees C.
-
The printing operations above described may be applied either upon the
fabric, or warped threads, or thread in hanks, whether composed entirely of silk,
or of silk and wool, silk and cotton, or silk combined with any vegetable textile
material.
Dated March 15th 1895.
A. M. & WM. CLARK,
53 Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.
An improved Process of Producing Crinkled Effects on Silk and
Mixed Silk and other Threads and Fabrics.
We, CHARLES DEPOULLY and PAUL DEPOULLY, both of 63, Rue des Martyrs,
Paris, France, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
It has been found that silk filaments, whether in the form of threads, hanks, or
fabrics, when subjected to the action of acids under certain conditions become
shortened, the effect being dependent upon the degree of concentration of the acid
employed, the temperature of the bath, and the duration of the immersion or

page_text: impregnation, and it is only by suitably regulating these several factors, viz. :—
concentration, temperature, and time, that the desired result can be attained in.
practice.
In carrying our improved process into effect, we operate in the following manner :--
The silk threads or fabrics, in any condition, (viz. raw, ungummed, or boiled-off,)
are immersed in the acid bath until the desired shortening effect is obtained, and
then washed. The density of the acid, the temperature of the bath, and the time
of immersion, are determined according to the magnitude of the effect it is desired
to produce, these conditions varying according to the nature of the acid employed..
The degree of concentration of the acid proper to produce the required effect upon
the silk should be carefully determined for each acid, as it is only susceptible of
variation within very narrow limits. Thus, for example, an active acid will not
produce a useful effect if of too low a density, whatever may be the temperature
and period of immersion. On the other hand an acid of too high a density would
either burn the silk or fail to produce any useful effect, according as the temperature
is too high or too low.
As examples of the extreme limits of deviation allowable in the case of
sulphuric, hydrochloric, nitric, and ortho-phosphoric acids, we may mention the
following:
SULPHURIC ACID.
= 1375 to 1400.
Density at 15 degrees
Temperature of the bath
Period of immersion
-
= 15 degrees to 37 degrees C.
5 to 15 minutes.
Density at 15 degrees = 1450 to 1500.
Temperature of the bath
=
25 degrees to 45 degrees C.
Period of immersion = 2 minutes to 15 minutes.
The process may, as before mentioned, be applied to silk whether in the form of
threads or fabrics. In the first case the crinkled thread which results from the
action of the acids may be used in the manufacture of fabrics either alone or mixed
with other textile fibres.
In the case of fabrics the contraction of the silk threads interwoven therein
enables varied effects to be obtained, according to the mode of combination of the
silk and other threads in the warp and weft.
In the case of fabrics made wholly of silk the effect produced on the fabric and
consequently its final aspect, may be varied by the application of reserves upon
the fabric either by printing or otherwise.
For fabrics of mixed silk and other threads the effect would vary according to
their relative disposition in the fabric, but in any case it is the silk threads only
which are shortened by the process herein described, the other threads (such
as cotton, wool, etc.,) preserving their original length and forming a crinkled
surface.

page_text: Instead of steeping or immersing the fibres or fabrics in an acid bath, the acid
may be applied by printing any suitable pattern upon the fibre, thread, or fabric,
with an acid mixed with any suitable thickening material, the impression being
applied upon those parts which are to be contracted. The printed fibres or fabrics
are thereupon immediately subjected to the action of heat until the desired
contraction is obtained, after which they are washed and dried. The temperature
and period of heating, as well as the strength of the acid employed in the mixture,
would vary according to the nature and quantity of the thickener employed and
the strength and composition of the fabric. To the printing mixture may be added
metallic salts or colouring matters, for example, in the following proportions
A printing mixture containing 5% of gum tragacanth and 45% of real ortho-
phosphoric acid printed on silk tulle and afterwards subjected to a temperature
of 38 degrees C. for from 3 to 7 minutes, gives good results. With the same
composition a good effect is obtained on foulards, when exposed to a temperature
of 43 degrees C. for from 5 to 12 minutes. With a composition containing 30%
of gommelin, 60% of real ortho-phosphoric acid, silk tulle should be subjected for
from 5 to 10 minutes to a temperature of 40 degrees C. and foulard for from 7 to
12 minutes, to a temperature of 43 degrees C.
:―
The printing operations above described may be applied either upon the
fabric, or warped threads, or thread in hanks, whether composed entirely of silk,
or of silk and wool, silk and cotton, or silk combined with any vegetable textile
material.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The herein described process of contracting silk for the production of
crinkled effects by subjecting threads or fabrics to the action of an acid and more
particularly of sulphuric, hydrochloric, nitric, and ortho-phosphoric acids in the
manner and under the special conditions herein specified.
2. The herein described process of contracting silk for the production of
crinkled effects by printing with a mixture of an acid with a thickener with or
without the addition of colouring matters and metallic salts as specified.
3. The application of the herein described process of contracting silk for the
production of crinkled effects upon threads and fabrics containing silk either in
the raw, ungummed, or boiled-off condition alone or in admixture with textile
materials of vegetable or animal origin, as specified.
Dated this let dor of Lule 1805
A. M. & WM. CLARK,
53, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.
A. M. & WM. CLARK,
53, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.