Improvements in Measuring Apparatus for use in Dress Making and Tailoring.
Year: 1896

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Measuring Apparatus for use in Dress Making and
Tailoring.
We, DIANTHA WALLACE CONTIN, Designer, and GEORGE HANA, Photographer,
both of 8 Walerand Road, Lewisham, London, S.E., do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to improvements in measuring apparatus for use in dress
making and tailoring, in the use of which an accurate measurement is taken
and a perfect and certain fit obtained without the necessity of a preliminary test
of fit before the completion of the garment.
Our invention has for its object to obtain an accurate and certain measu....
ment upon the body of the wearer of the constituent pieces or sections of material
which are to form the integral garment for which the measurement is taken,
so that upon disconnection of the frame of the apparatus the constituent parts,
which correspond to the pieces of the garment, are laid flat upon the material of
which the garment is to be composed and the fabric or cloth marked, so that
pieces are produced marked on the lines of seaming, whose size is accurately and
positively determined and when joined or sewn together produce a garment of
positive and accurate fit.
It will therefore be seen that in the use of our apparatus all opportunity for
inaccuracy of measurement or error in the determination of the size and shape
of the constituent pieces of the garment, are entirely obviated, while no necessity
exists for any measurement or calculation, and no skill is required in the use of
the apparatus.
Our invention consists more especially in the provision of an apparatus or
frame for the measurement of a lady's tight fitting bodice or basque, which
apparatus or frame is composed of extensible or adjustable parts corresponding
to the constituent pieces of the garment to be made, which parts when placed
upon the figure of the intending wearer are adjusted to form a tight fit of the
frame upon the body, so that such parts give a positive measurement of the con-
stituent pieces of the fabric or cloth of which the garment is to be made, and
upon disconnection may be laid upon the piece of fabric to be employed and
their exact size and shape reproduced.
In carrying our invention into effect in the manufacture of an apparatus or
frame for use in the measurement of a lady's tight fitting bodice or basque, I
provide a half frame to fit one half of the figure, which half frame is composed of
a front part, a side part and two back parts corresponding to the pieces of fabric
of which the garment is to be ultimately composed.
The front and other parts of the half frame are composed of thin narrow strips
of sheet steel or other suitable metal or material which are capable of extension
or adjustment to suit various forms and sizes of figure. The front part consists
of an upper horizontal breast band or strip which, when this part of the frame is
laid upon the fabric, is taken as the base line. This upper breast strip is made

page_text: extensible and reaches from immediately under the arm curvature to the longi-
tudinal strip disposed in the centre line of the figure and its extremity is secured
thereto.
This upper breast strip corresponds to the measurement usually taken under the
arm-pits and across the front of the figure.
A lower adjustable breast strip is provided which on the one side is secured or
rivetted to the side strip of the front piece immediately beneath the arm
curvature, and extends to the longitudinal front strip on the other side to which
it is secured or rivetted. This lower breast strip corresponds to the measure-
ment usually taken below the arm curvature across the fullest part of the figure.
The lower members of this front part of the frame are provided so as to be
disconnected into three parts, and are provided for the purpose of allowing con-
traction for the dimunition in width of the waist of the figure. The first of these
lower members of the front part of frame has the longitudinal centre strip of
the figure for one of its sides, the other longitudinal constituent strip pivotally
hinges from the lower breast strip and is joined to the longitudinal central strip
by means of adjustable strips at the bottom of the frame, and at the waist line,
and is capable of adjustment above and below that line.
The second lower member is likewise formed of two longitudinal strips, the
one strip pivotting from the same pivot as the neighbouring longitudinal strip
of the first member, but extending upwardly in an inwardly curved direction and
pivotting at the upper extremity of the longitudinal central strip, while the
second longitudinal side of the second lower member is also pivotted upon the
lower lateral breast strip at a point where the longitudinal strip of the third
member also pivots; the latter strip however likewise extends upwardly, and
gradually curves in an inward direction and is pivotally rivetted or secured in
like manner to the extremity of the longitudinal central strip. The respective
longitudinal sides of the second and third lower members of the front part of the
frame are connected together by laterally adiustable strips at the lower extremity
and upon the waist line. The upper portion of the front member is formed
integrally and not divided, but is cauable of adjustment in any direction. This
upper portion is formed of strips to measure the shoulder piece and on the one
side is provided with a curved strip capable of extension which forms the arm
curvature, and the other side is likewise provided with a curved strip capable of
adjustment at its upper and lower ends, which serves to take the neck.
The shoulder portion of the frame may be adjusted by means of a diagonal strip
secured on one side to the curved neck strip and on the other to the outer angular
pivot of this portion of the frame. An adjustable connecting strip is provided
from the lower part of the arm curvature strip to the pivot on the lower breast
strip from which the contiguous sides of the second and third lower members
pivot.
Upon the lateral extremity of the upper breast line of the front part of the
frame is provided an angular piece which may be adjustable laterally and
vertically so as to conform to the shrape of the arm and this adjustable piece may
be connected to the contiguous part of the frame.
Adjustment is provided for in every part of the frame between pivotal or
rivetted connections by means of a clamping screw or equivalent device.
The contiguous sides of the lower members of the front part of the frame or
apparatus are hooked together so that their respective sides may be adjusted
into close contact the one with the other.
The side constituent part of the frame is formed of two longitudinal strips
each of a shape corresponding to the form of the side pieces of which the bodice
is composed. These side strips are lengthwise adjustable each in two, three or
more parts, and the side next the back part of the frame may be pivotally con-
nected. The extremity of each of the side strips are connected together by a
suitable strin, and are further connected at one, two or more parts by adjustable
strips in like manner, the one upon the waist line, the other upon the upper breast

page_text: line. One of these side strips is provided with eyelets for connection to cor-
responding hooks or other fastenings upon the extreme side strip of the front
part of the frame.
The intermediate back part is formed of a shape. corresponding to that of the
piece in the fabric and is capable of adjustment, in every direction to suit
different sizes of figure, and is connected by a lateral adjustable strip at the upper
and lower extremities. The strip in contiguity with the back part of the frame
may be pivoted in two or more parts to suit the necessity of adjustment and may
be connected to the opposite longitudinal strip upon the upper breast line, and
upon the waist line by lateral adjustable strips. This intermediate part of the
frame is connected to the contiguous parts by hook and eye or other connections.
The upper adjustable lateral connection is formed preferably of a slight curvature
to suit the arm.
The back part of the frame is formed of the same configuration as that of the
back piece in the garment as usually made, but it is likewise capable of adjust-
ment in every direction to suit the different sizes of figure. One side is formed
of a length corresponding to that of the contiguous side of the intermediate back
part of the frame and is connected, thereto by means of hook and eye connections.
This side of the back part is adjustable in two, three or more parts and may be
pivoted to suit the requirements of adjustment. The upper portion of this part
is formed as three strips, the intermediate one of which lies in contiguity with
the extremity of the shoulder piece of the front part of the frame and is secured,
thereto on fitting the frame to the figure by hook and eye connections. The
other strip is approximately vertical and completes the frame around the arm,
while the strip upon the other side completes the frame around the neck. The
longitudinal strips forming the back part of the frame are held together by
adjustable lateral strips in suitable positions upon the waist line, upon the upper
breast line and upon the shoulder line; while the longitudinal central back strip
is secured in position and connected to the lonitudinal strip of the front part
of the frame by means of tapes or bands passing round the other part of the
figure, and the frame is thereby held in position for fitting and adjustment of
parts.
The frame when assembled together upon the figure has a line of adjustable
strips about the waist line and the heads of the adjusting clamping screws, may
serve the purpose of holding the frame upon the figure by means of a band placed
upon the waist line immediately under the heads of the screws, while adjustment
of each of the parts of the frame is possible along the waist line.
The adjustment of each of the upper ends of the side, intermediate, and back
parts of the frame is provided in line with the upper breast strip, so that adjust-
iment may be made in line around the figure.
After the careful adjustment of the frame to the contour of the figure and on
the disconnection of the parts, such may be laid upon the fabric, which is designed
to form the bodice or basque, and the several pieces may be marked along the
edges of the frame parts, the lines so formed being the scam lines along which
the several pieces are sewn, a suitable width of fabric being allowed beyond those
lines as required.
It will be understood that the separable lower parts of the front of the frame,
allow the laying down upon the fabric without any variation in the actual shape
of parts as adjusted upon the figure.
It will be seen that our improved apparatus may be used for making a pattern
for a model to suit individual persons upon which to fit dresses.
We do not limit our invention to the actual arrangement of frame as herein-
before described, as it is obvious that we may so provide our frame as to suit the
cut of bodice as may be required, so that we may make our frame of any number
and shape of parts to suit the number and shape of pieces of which the bodice or
basque or other garment is to be made.
It is further to be understood that although the practical application of our

page_text: invention has been described as applied for the measurement of a tight fitting
bodice or basque, it is obviously equally applicable to tight fitting and other
garments with modifications in the shape of the parts of the frame suitable to
figure and cut.
Instead of providing a half frame from which to cut the two sets of pieces in
the garment, we may provide and use a frame for application to the whole figure,
more especially for use where one part of the figure is of a different size or shape
to the other.
It will be understood that the several parts of the frame are in the first placo
designed in shape to approximate to the general contour of figure, but that
adjustment is provided for in each part to suit various sizes and shapes of figure.
Any means of adjustment of the strips or parts may be employed without
departing from our invention, and the extremity of the pieces employed may be
provided so that the several parts, though capable of adjustment, may not become
disconnected except where special provision is made therefor.
Dated this 7th day of December 1896.
MARKS & CLERK,
18, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., and
13, Temple Street, Birmingham, Agents.
Improvements in Measuring Apparatus for use in Dress Making and
Tailoring.
We, Mrs. DIANTHA WALLACE COTTIN,
WALLACE COTTIN, Designer and GEORGE HANA,
Photographer, both of 8, Walerand Road, Lewisham, London, S.E., do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
Our invention relates to improvements in measuring apparatus for use in dress
making and tailoring, in the use of which an accurate measurement is taken
and a perfect and certain fit obtained without the necessity of a preliminary test
of fit before the completion of the garment.
Our invention has for its object to obtain an accurate and certain measure-
ment upon the body of the wearer of the constituent pieces or sections of material
which are to form the garment for which the measurement. is. taken
so that upon disconnection of the frame of the apparatus the constituent parts,
which correspond to the pieces of the garment, are laid flat upon the material of
which the garment is to be composed and the fabric or cloth marked-so that
pieces are produced marked on the lines of seaming, whose size is accurately and
positively determined and when joined or sewn together produce a garment of
positive and accurate fit.
It will therefore be seen that in the use of our apparatus all opportunity for
inaccuracy of measurement or error in the determination of the size and shape
of the constituent pieces of the garment, are entirely obviated, while no necessity
exists for any measurement or calculation and no skill is required in the use of
the apparatus.
Our invention consists more especially in the provision of an apparatus or
frame for the measurement of a lady's tight fitting bodice or basque, which
apparatus or frame is composed of extensible or adjustable parts corresponding

page_text: to the constituent pieces of the garment to be made, which parts when placed
upon the figure of the intending wearer are adjusted to form a tight fit of the
frame upon the body, so that such parts give a positive measurement of the con-
stituent pieces of the fabric or cloth of which the garment is to be made, and
upon disconnection may be laid upon the piece of fabric to be employed and
their exact size and shape reproduced.
Our invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which:-
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the front part A of a measuring apparatus or
frame, while
Figure 2 is a front elevation of the side part, B.
Figures 3 and 4 are front elevations of the two back parts C and D respectively.
Figure 5 is a front view of the half frame as applied, while
Figure 6 is a back view corresponding thereto.
Figures 7 and 8 are respectively elevation and plan of the means employed
for the adjustment of the strips constituting the frame, while
Figures 9 and 10 are alternative means employed for hooking or attaching the
contiguous strips constituting the frame.
In carrying our invention into effect in the manufacture of an apparatus or
frame for use in the measurement of a lady's tight fitting bodice or basque, as
illustrated in the accompanying drawings, we provide a half-frame to fit one-half
of the figure, which half-frame is composed of a front part A, a side part B and
two back parts C and D, corresponding to the pieces of the fabric of which the
garment is to be ultimately composed. The front and other parts A, B, C and D
of the half frame are composed of thin narrow strips of sheet steel or other suit-
able metal or material which are capable of extension or adjustment to suit
various forms and sizes of figure. The front part A consists of an upper
horizontal breast band or strip E which when this part of the frame is laid upon
the fabric, is taken as the base line. This upper breast strip E is made extensible
one end E pivotted at e under the arm curvature but outwardly extending there-
from, such end E passing under the strip E and being secured thereto by the
clip and sliding band G, the strip E being secured at its opposite extremity to
the longitudinal strip H at el disposed in the centre line of the figure. This
upper breast strip corresponds to the measurement usually taken under the arm-
pits and across the front of the figure.
A convenient means of adjustment of the constituent parts or strips of the
frame is illustrated in elevation and plan at Figures 7 and 8 and there it will be
seen that a clip is constituted by an embracing collar through which the two
parts of the strip E E are introduced, the one being secured to the other by
means of a clamping screw F while the extremities and E3 are embossed, or
a projection e formed thereupon so that such extremities E2 E3 shall not be able
to pass by the clip For the sliding collar G. Figures 7 and 8 serve to show in.
detail the means of extension employed throughout the apparatus.
A lower adjustable breast strip I is provided which on the one side is pivotally
secured or rivetted to the side strip J of the front piece immediately beneath the
arm curvature and is also pivotted at i (where the side strips K and L are also
pivotted), being extensible between the pivots j and i, the strip I between these
points being in duplicate one superposed above the other and being embraced
by a clip and a sliding collar G. The strip I is further capable of extension
between pivots i and m, while it is further capable of adjustment between the
pivots m and the front strip H to which it is pivotally secured at j. It will thus
be seen that adjustment is permitted along the lower breast line between the
points and i, i and m, and m and j and the connection of the points jim
and is not rigid but permits of movement. This lower breast strip I corresponds
to the measurement usually taken below the arm-pits across the fullest part of
the figure.
The lower members of this front part A are provided so as to be disconnected

page_text: preferably into three parts respectively lettered J K, L M, N H, and are provided
for the purpose of allowing contraction for the diminution in width of the waist
of the figure. The first of these lower members N H, of the front part A of the
arm has the longitudinal central strip of the figure H for one of its sides, such
strip H being extensible between the points and h, and being likewise extensible
between the point's h. and h. The other longitudinal constituent strip N
pivotally hinges from the lower breast strips I, and is jointed at m and is connected
to the longitudinal central strip H by means of adjustable strips and P
respectively at the waist line and at the bottom of the frame, the adjustment
being effected by means such as indicated in Figures 7 and 8 of the drawings.
The strip. N is adjustable between the pivot m and the pivot n and is likewise
adjustable between the pivot n and the pivot n'. The second lower member I. N
is likewise formed of the longitudinal strips L and M, the one strip M pivoting
from the same pivot as the neighbouring longitudinal strip N of the first member,
but extending upwardly in an inwardly curved direction and pivoting at the
upper extremity of the longitudinal central strip H: the upper portion M of
this strip being rigidly secured at m2. to the main strip M, the upper part- M
being capable of extension between the pivots m and 2. The second longitudinal
side L of the second lower member L M is also pivoted upon the lower lateral
breast line at i and is pivotally connected to the longitudinal strip M at the
waist line and at the bottom of the frame by adjustable strips and, P
respectively, the strip M being connected to the adjacent strip N by the hook and
eye connection QR and R Q respectively, while the strips L and M are likewise
capable of adjustment between the upper breast line and the waist line and
between the waist line and the bottom of the frame as illustrated. The strip K
of the third lower member is also pivoted at i but is extended in an inwardly
curved direction and pivots at the upper extremity h2 of the longitudinal central
strip H; the upper part K¹ of the strip K being capable of extension while being
rigidly pivoted or otherwise secured to the strip K at 12. The strip K is con-
nected to the strip J at the waist line and at the bottom of the frame by adjust-
able strips (21, the respective extremities of the superposed parts of the
strips 02 Pheing pivoted upon the strips J and K. The strin J has its lower
part pivoted at while it is capable of adjustment between the waist line and
the bottom part of the frame, and between the waist line and tho
lower breast line as indicated, while also capable of adjustment between the
upper and lower breast lines as illustrated. The upper portion of the front part
of the frame A is formed of one piece capable of adjustment in any direction so
as to measure the shoulder piece. On one side it is provided with a curved
strip T capable of extension, which forms the arm curvature, being secured to
the upper breast line and pivoting at e. Upon the opposite side is likewise
provided a curved strip U which is connected to the extremity of the curved
strip T by means of the adjustable diagonal strip V, such strip pivoting freely
at u, while the strip U is capable of adjustment upon either side of the pivot u
as indicated, and the extremities of the respective strips T and U are pivotally
and freely connected together by the transverse adjustable strip W, while
hooks P are provided for engaging with corresponding eyes Q2 provided on the
back part 1 of the frame. It will thus be seen that the shoulder portion of the
frame A may be adjusted by means of the diagonal strip V secured on one sido
to the curved neck strip U and on the other to the angular outer pivot of this
portion of the frame.
An adjustable connecting strip X is provided upon the lower part of the arm
curvature strip ate reaching to the lower breast strip at i from which the contiguous
sides of the second and third lower members pivot. Upon the lateral extremity of the
upper breast line E of the front part A of the frame is provided an angular
piece Y at the angular extremity of which is provided a hook R', while one
extremity or part is pivotally but freely secured to the upper breast line at e²,

page_text: while its other part lies under the upper part of the vertical strip J and.is
embraced by the clip so that the hook R is capable of adjustment so as to
engage with the eye Q of the part B. The side constituent part B of the frame
is formed of two longitudinal strips B B each of a shape corresponding to the
form of the said pieces of which the bodice is composed. These side strips are
lengthwise adjustable between the arm curvature and the upper breast line and
between the upper breast line and the waist line and between the waist line and
the bottom of the frame and are connected together at the arm curvature the
upper breast line, waistline and the bottom of the frame by means of transverse
adjustable strips EE, O and, P respectively, each of the extremities pivoting
freely upon the strips. The longitudinal strip 13 is connected to the longitudinal
strip J by the hook and eye connections respectively lettered R R R and R and
QQQ and Q. The intermediate back part C is formed of a shape corresponding
to that of the piece in the fabric and is capable of adjustment in every direction
to suit different sizes of figure. It is constituted of two longitudinal strips C¹C
each adjustable between the arm curvature and the upper breast line and between
the upper breast line and the waist line and between the waist line and the lower
part of the frame, while being connected together at the arm curvature the upper
breast line, waist line and bottom of the frame by adjustable strips EEO P
respectively; the respective extremities of each of such strips being pivotally
and freely secured to the respective longitudinal strips CC. The longitudinal
strip C may be pivoted at while the longitudinal, strip C is connected to the
contiguous longitudinal strip B2 by hook and eye connections respectively RRRR
and QQQQ The arm curvature strip as well as E are formed of a shape
corresponding to the arm. The back part of the frame D is formed of the same
configuration as that of the back piece in the garment as usually made, but is
likewise capable of adjustment in every direction to suit the different sizes of
figure. One longitudinal side D is formed of a length corresponding to that of
the contiguous side C2 of the intermediate back part C of the frame, and is con-
nected thereto by means of hook and eye connections respectively
lettered RR RR and QQQQ. This longitudinal side 1 is adjustable between
the arm curvature and the upper breast line, and between the upper breast line
and the waist line, and between the waist line and the bottom part of the frame
and may be pivoted to suit the requirements of adjustment, though in the draw-
ings the strip is not shown pivoted. The upper portion of this part 1) is formed
as three strips D2 D3 D4, the intermediate one of which lies in contiguity,
when the parts are assembled together, with the strip W of the shoulder piece
on the front part A of the frame, and is secured thereto by hook and eye con-
nections QQ3, and RR as illustrated. The other strip D2 completes the frame
around the arm and is capable of adjustment while the strip D upon the other
side completes the frame around the neck. The longitudinal strips DI D³
forming the back part I) of the frame are held together and adjusted by the lateral
strips 15, capable of adjustment, as well as upon the upper breast line, waist line
and bottom of the frame by adjustable strips E7 05 and 15 respectively, each of
the connecting strips being pivotally secured to the longitudinal strips D¹ D³.
The longitudinal central back strip D3 is secured in position and connected to
the longitudinal strip H of the front part of the frame by means of tapes or bands
passing around the other and uncurved part of the figure, and the frame is thereby
held in position for adjustment of parts and fitting.
The frame when assembled together upon the figure has a series of adjustable
strips about the waist line, and the heads of the adjusting clamping screws may
serve the purpose of holding the frame upon the figure by means of a waist band,
placed upon the waist line immediately under the heads of the screws; while 10
will be understood that adjustment of each of the parts is possible along the
waist line. It will be further seen that the adjustment of each of the upper ends
of the side intermediate and back parts B C and D of the frame is provided in

page_text: line with the upper breast strip so that adjustment may be made in that line
around the figure. After the careful adjustment of the frame to the contour of
the figure in the manner illustrated in Figures 5 and 6 of the accompanying
drawings, and on the secure clamping of all the adjusting clamping screws and
on the disconnection of the parts, such may be laid upon the fabric as indicated
in Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4, and the several pieces of the fabric may be marked along
the edges of the frame parts, the line so formed being the seam lines along which
the several pieces are sewn; a suitable width of fabric being allowed beyond those
lines as required.
It will be understood that the separable lower parts of the front of the frame.
allow the laying down upon the fabric without any variation in the actual shape
of the parts as adjusted upon the figure.
Our improved apparatus may be used for making a pattern for a model to suit
individual persons upon which to fit dresses.
We do not limit our invention to the actual arrangements of frame as herein-
before described, as it is obvious that we may so provide our frame as to suit the
cut of bodice as may be required, so that we make our frame of any number and
shape of parts to suit the number and shape of pieces of which the bodice or
basque or other garment is to be made. It is further to be understood that
although the practical application of our invention has been described for the
measurement of a tight-fitting bodice or basque it is obvious equally applicable
to tight fitting garments generally with modifications in the shape of the parts of
the frame suitable to figure and cut. Instead of providing a half frame from
which to cut the two sets of pieces in the garment we may provide and use a
frame for application to the whole figure, more especially for use where one part
of the figure is of a different size or shape to the other, in which case the
hooks RRRR provided upon the back longitudinal strip 1" may be utilized for
engagement with corresponding eyes provided upon the contiguous longitudinal
strip.
It will be understood that several parts of the frame are in the first place
designed in shape to approximate to the general contour of figure, but that adjust-
ment is provided as before described in each part to suit various sizes and shapes
of figure. It is to be understood that any means of adjustment of the strips or
parts may be employed without departing from our invention, and the extremity
of the pieces employed may be provided so that the several parts though capable
of adjustment may not become disconnected, except where special provision is
made therefor.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is
1. A measuring apparatus constituted of parts of a number and shape cor-
responding to the constituent pieces of the fabric of which the garment is formed,
for the purpose and substantially as hereinbefore described.
2. In a measuring apparatus such as defined in the first claim, a front or
breast part having lower integral members capable of dividing from the lower
breast line for the purpose and substantially as hereinbefore described.
3. In a measuring apparatus such as defined in the first claim, a front or
breast part having lower integral members one of each of whose sides is connected
to the upper extremity of the front longitudinal strip but pivots upon and divides
from the lower breast line when that part is laid flat for the purpose and sub-
stantially as hereinbefore described.
4. A measuring apparatus constituted of parts of a number and shape cor-
responding to the constituent pieces of the fabric of which the garment is formed,
which parts are adjusted upon the upper and lower breast lines and upon the
waist line for the purpose and substantially as hereinbefore described.

page_text: 5. Improvements in measuring apparatus for use in dress making and tailor-
ing for the purpose and substantially as hereinbefore described.
Dated this 7th day of October 1897.
MARKS & CLERK,
18, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., and
13, Temple Street, Birmingham, Agents.