Improvements in Devices or Patterns for use in Cutting Out Certain Parts of Men's Garments.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 29th Aug., 1893-Accepted, 16th Dec., 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Devices or Patterns for use in Cutting Out
Certain Parts of Men's Garments.
A communication by MATTHÄUS LUTZ, of 71, Stöckachstrasse, Stuttgart, in the
Empire of Germany, Director of the South German Clothing Academy.
I, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON F.C.S. M.I.M.E. of the Agency for Foreign
Patent Solicitors, 6, Lord Street, Liverpool & 6, Bank Street, Manchester both
in the County of Lancaster & 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex
Civil Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
This invention has essentially for its object to allow of the same cutting out
pattern for clothing for the upper part of men's figures being used, when they are
the same width at the top, but where the carriage and build of the figure vary, by
making the pattern, instead of its being made in one piece, of two separate pieces,
which may be adjusted to one another, so that it may be arranged in a moment to
suit any style of carriage of the body or curve of the back, and may therefore be
called an instantaneous pattern.
In all articles of clothing, it is well known that it is a question of forming a
Bo called model (cutting pattern) by cutting it out in a suitable manner from a flat
pattern, which model, when suitable edge lines have been stitched together, assumes
a form which conveniently fits the body for which the garment is intended. The
making of a pattern for the lower part of the garment offers less difficulty, as, in
this case, a form of body may be generally assumed which, rising from the hips to
the height of the shoulders, forms a conical trunk, on the other hand, the upper
part of the garment, which may be regarded as a cone obliquely cut off, constitutes
the real difficulty in the model. This obliquely cut off cone, the shape of the sides
of which must be maintained as exactly as possible, rests below on the conical trunk
and is terminated at the top by the neck opening.
The proportion of the rear lines of the casing to the front ones of this inclined
conic section, that is, between the breast line and back line, varies according to the
carriage of the body. The bottom of the cut off cone is an irregular oval, the form
of which alters according to the curve in the back. In general, it may be assumed
that the correct fit of the clothes, that is to say, the so called balance of the whole
cut, necessitates that, in the cutting pattern, there should be taken fully into
account the carriage of the body and the curve of the back, whilst the correct cut
of the arm hole must also be provided for.
In spite of the number of systems of cutting employed, it has been hitherto always
necessary, even where there was the same upper width of the body, to first prepare
a special model in the case of a different carriage of the body or curve of the back,
which was inconvenient and consumed much time. This invention, which is shown
on the accompanying drawings in Figures 1 and 2, being respectively in a com-
bined and divided condition of the separate parts, and is hereinafter more
particularly described, serves to remove this drawback.
Figures 3 and 4 show a side view and section respectively of the model of a figure
in various positions of carriage.
As already stated, in order to form the cutting pattern of the upper body, which
pattern is assumed to be formed of two mathematical figures, a conical trunk is
taken, with an obliquely cut off cone placed above it, both of which have a common
ground surface in a horizontal section made on the lower horizontal terminal line
of the bottom of the arm hole.
In Figures 3 and 4 of Sheet II of the accompanying drawing, F is the conical

page_text: trunk and E the obliquely cut-off cone, which have the common ground surface e e',
and about the same height g or g¹.
If the conical trunk be extended to the line f¹ e¹ of the backbone, and from there
the vertical distance i in centimetres be measured to the neck opening, this is called
the carriage (or position) of the body, that is to say, the smaller or larger this
measurement to i is, the carriage of the person is so much the more or less upright,
or the person is more or less high chested.
According as the carriage of the body is more or less erect, the front shaping
line e es of the cut-off cone E is longer or shorter, and this must be provided for in
the pattern. This is done by making the pattern in two parts instead of one, the
upper one, B, of which (parts), representing the development of the obliquely cut-
off cone E, turns on a point ½, which is placed on a horizontal line Z Z passing
close to the bottom of the arm hole. As regards its vertical position, this point h
is so placed that it forms the point of section of the rear vertical with the lower
horizontal arm hole tangent. The point h, which has been found in this manner,
coincides, as many experiments have shown, exactly with that point of the body
where the movement of the shoulder bones takes place, or where the joint of the
shoulder blades is situated, by the movement or position of which the carriage of
the body or curve of the back of the figure in question is formed. This point h is
thus the central point of the movement which fixes the carriage of the body and
the curve of the back. According as the carriage is an erect or stooping one, the
distance of the point is reduced or increased. The point 3 of Figure 3 recedes
from, or approaches, the point fin pretty much the same proportion as i increases
or diminishes, that is to say, each carriage or position of the body is expressed on
the line fe by means of this diminution or extension. If a curved centimetre
scale, movable concentric to h, be placed at this point, by a suitable adjustment
of the part B on this scale, the correct position of the part B to the part C to
correspond with a particular carriage of the body may at once be ascertained, the
front part of the extension of the obliquely cut-off cone E is determined, for the
pattern cutting model, by the part B being placed as many centimetres lower or
higher on the scale n as the difference at i shows. For men of ordinary build, the
distance of the scale from the pivot is exactly as great as the distance of the
latter from the neck line a of the part A, from which the carriage of the body may
be measured in such a way that each centimetre measured of the carriage of the
body corresponds to a centimetre on the scale n. If, for instance, 9 centimetres be
measured as the carriage of the body, the part B is placed over the part C as far
as division 9 on the scale, and thus the front part of the model pattern is established,
so that the corresponding outlines of both the parts B and C of the model may
then be simply sketched out.
To each normal pose of the body, there corresponds a suitable position of the arm
hole in the model, and for this purpose a suitable scale m is also provided on the
part B. If, with a given carriage of the body, the measurement shows 10 centi-
metres, in order to obtain the other outlines, the part B is placed at the line 10 on
the scale n of the part C. The division 10 on the scale m then forms the corre-
sponding front vertical tangent for the armhole.
The rear part of the model form also depends essentially on the curvature or
fulness of the back of the person who is to be fitted. The curve of the back is
shown in Figure 3 in the distance of the point e' from the line e² f¹. If the back be
more or less crooked, this circumstance must be taken into consideration when
cutting out the pattern, in such a way that, when the garment is completed, it may
project or curve outwardly more or less at the part in question. This result is
obtained by making the line e of the part C of the cutting pattern stand further
away from the line a² of the part A of the cutting pattern, so that, when a larger
or smaller piece of the article of clothing, which lies between these lines, has been
cut out, a more or less rounded or projecting back is obtained.
с
In normally built persons, it may be generally assumed, as a theoretical formula,
it having been shown by experiments, that the curve or projection of the back

page_text: amounts to about half the curvature of the back bone line i, less one centimetre.
There are, however, considerable variations, flat backs being frequent with strongly
curved back bones, and strongly rounded backs with an erect carriage of the body.
The scale o, arranged on the right hand side of the part C, which scale may also be
moved concentrically to the point h, serves for estimating these inequalities, the
scale having divisions which correspond to the rounded shape of the back, measured
in centimetres. The measurement required in such a case, or the extent to which
it differs from the normal measurement, amounts, unless the person has a hump
back, to 8 centimetres at the most, and, therefore, the scale o is only divided up to 8.
By means of this scale o, the rear form of the model is determined after the front
one is fixed, that is to say, the straight rear part of B is adjusted to a suitable point
of the scale o. The curved line b₁ of the part B then gives the direction for the
line c of the part C, or this line is suitably extended. The back part A is not
altered by any alteration which is caused by any spinal curve or bend of the back,
and, commencing from its corner a', it is simply placed on the edge line 6,
commencing at the upper end of the same, but, on the other hand, its position may
be varied as regards the part C.
The pattern model is made as follows :-
When the requisite measurement has been taken, and the general form of model
for each size of chest has been obtained, the part B is adjusted on the scale n of the
part C to correspond to the carriage or pose of the body, and the front side of the
model is then traced. The part B is adjusted to the same division on the scale m
as was selected on the scale n, and the line extended. This division then gives the
front tangent of the armhole. The part B is afterwards adjusted on the scale o,
whilst the line indicates the direction in which the line c of the part C is to be
made. The part A does not itself alter when the size of chest is the same, but
merely its position as regards the piece C, by which its line a² also assumes another
position, and, as already stated, the part of the cutting pattern which lies between
the lines c and a² and which must subsequently be cut out is larger or smaller,
according as the book is more or less hent. Care must only be taken that, when
the parts are sewn together, the part A lies on the correct place before
mentioned.
Where the top width of a garment is the same, or where it is only slightly
altered, the same pattern may be used for all spinal curves, as well as for any curves
of the back, and, as soon as the measurement has been correctly taken, the cutting
out pattern may be made ready within, at most, 2 minutes, as the movable part B
only requires to be twice adjusted, and generally only the outlines require to be
traced.
The advantage of this method of making patterns, especially for simple tailors,
who cannot keep an extra cutter, may be best estimated by any practical man.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
A cutting out pattern for men's upper garments, characterised by the same
consisting of two movable interconnected parts B and C, the pivot h of which forms
the point of section of the lower horizontal and back vertical tangents of the
armhole, the front form of the pattern or front armhole tangent, or rear form of the
pattern, being able to be fixed by the adjustment of both parts B and C on
the three scales n m and o in such a way that, when the upper width of the body is
the same or approximately the same, the same pattern may be employed by a
suitable adjustment of both parts of the same for each carriage of the body or build
of the figure.
T
1
1000
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.