IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1871

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Michael Henry, of Fleet Chambers, 68, Fleet
Street, in the City of London, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."-A communication from abroad
by W. A. Mack, of Norwalk, Ohio, and James Blake, of Scranton,
Pennsylvania both in the United States of America
Sealed the 21st July 1871, and dated the 31st January 1871.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Michael Henry at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
31st January 1871.
I, MICHAEL HENRY, of Fleet Chambers, 68, Fleet Street, in the City
of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," communicated to me from
abroad by W. A. Mack, of Norwalk, Ohio, and James Blake, of
Scranton, Pennsylvania, both in the United States of America, to be
as follows:
A horizontal shuttle lever is pivoted under the cloth plate carrying
the shuttle in a cradle at one end and terminating in a fork or ball at

page_text: the other.
It is actuated by a pendant lever which has conversely a
ball or forked end, and is moved by a cam on a main shaft running
through the goose neck. A number of entire and sub-combinations
operate a drop or four-motion feed. A double shouldered push rod is
operated by a short arm projecting from the horizontal shuttle lever at
right angles thereto at its point of suspension and support. This push
rod elevates the feed bar and depresses the same by the action of the
bent or double shouldered part upon the sides of the hole in the feed bar
through which it passes. This push rod receives forward and backward
movement from the shuttle lever as it moves in a sector describing an
arc with the shuttle which it carries. In the end of the vertical arm of
a right-angled double-armed piece, the far end of the push rod pene-
trates, and into the end of its horizontal arm the end of a walking beam
lever penetrates. A pendant rod carries a cup which receives vertical
motion from a cam on the main shaft. The near end of the walking
beam lever carries a screw pin which comes down through a hole in
the cloth plate, but is not secured thereto; it takes in the cup of the
pendant rod at intervals. After the contact of the cup and screw pin
the further elevation of the pendant rod operates the walking beam
lever, which moving the double armed piecc, moves the end of the push
rod, and consequently the feed bar. The adjustment of the screw pin
therefore controls the length of the stitch. There are contrivances for
taking up the slack of the needle thread by a curved pendant lever
having an eye at its lower end and operated by a pin on the needle
bar which moves on the concave side of the lever and forces it up by
action on the lower limb of the concave when the needle bar approaches
the lower limit of its motion and the slack is required for the passage
of the shuttle, and also by the same action on the upper limb of the
concave when tension is about to occur in tightening the stitch. This
pendant concave lever is controlled in the opposite direction by a spiral
spring, strong enough to take up the slack when the thread is free, but
permitting the needle thread in case of accidental detention elsewhere
to operate it and the lever without danger of breaking. Thus the needle
thread is never exposed to the danger of positive action of the take up
lever and pin, or strain therefrom stronger than that of the take-up
spring, and when working as intended the thread does not operate the
take-up spring and lever, but the pin on the needle bar overcomes this
spring and offers the needle thread freely at each end of the movement
of the needle bar.

page_text: My shuttle head is somewhat triangular with a pin at its smallest end
fitted to a hole in the shuttle wall, and at the larger end a recess for the
hook end of the shuttle spring and a top piece projecting above a shoul-
der which takes under the shuttle case until it comes flush with the flat
side of the shuttle. This head takes one bearing of the bobbin and sets
inside the shuttle and is held by the pin at one end and the hooked
spring at the other. This spring at the end near the point of the shuttle
hooks into a hole in the shuttle wall and has holes for the thread, which,
coming up through the open longitudinal slit is passed through any
required number of these holes before the hook of the other end is
slidden over out of the recess where it remains while the head is in-
serted in place. This hook when slidden over the large end of the
head and seated in the recess only secures the head and acts as a
guide to conduct the needle thread off the shuttle. The shuttle
touches the arc, against which it rubs only at toe and heel, consequently,
wear sharpens its point and tends to ensure the engagement of the
needle thread loop and to steady the shuttle when in motion.
gathering attachment is composed of, first, a more or less perpendicular
plait bar having two spring plates or jaws on its lower end converging at
their forward ends, which are serrated, and pinch the cloth to be gathered
when a forward movement is made and slip easily over it when a back-
ward movement is made for taking up a new measure of cloth; this plait
bar is hung to a boss attached to the machine head and is operated by
the contact of a boss on the needle bar with the top in its upward
motion and with an adjustable cam plate in its downward motion.
This adjustable cam plate governs the size of the gather.
One or more
A
pieces or thicknesses of cloth may be entrusted to these spring fingers,
nippers, or jaws to be gathered alone or to one band or between two
bands or pieces of plain cloth, all or any of which will be sewed as the
gathering proceeds by one seam, the fold being each time pressed up
under the presser foot until engaged by the needle, when the boss which
moved the nippers forward strikes the cam plate moving them back-
ward. The plain pieces may be folded or felled and thus stitched on
to the ruffle, or left with raw edge and stitched on to the same; and
upon either side instead of the spring fingers or nippers two opposing
jaws may be used to which a slight open-and-shut movement is given
by the boss on the needle bar in the backward and forward movement.
The fingers or jaws may receive an alternating, downward and upward.
slant as moved forward whereby box plaiting may be done.

page_text: An embroidery attachment actuated by the boss of the needle bar
comprises a frame screwed to the head and carrying a lever taking
on the boss of the needle bar at one end and on the frame at the other,
having a spring pawl near its centre which engages in the teeth of a
ratchet wheel rotating in a plane parallel to the plane of the lever
movement. A ratchet wheel with a star-shaped groove and having an
out and in cam action on a pin moving therein is secured to a vertical
lever. This lever with pin moving in the groove is secured to the
frame at one end and the pin shaped opposite end takes in the diagonal
slots of two embroidery arms bent around in front of. the needle, and
also in a straight slot in the foot part of the frame. A stop spring
engages the teeth of the ratchet face and prevents backward motion
when the needle bar depresses the actuating lever, which is lifted by
the needle bar and boss and engaged by the pawl to the ratchet wheel
which is moved a step thereby; the cam coincidently operating on the
pin of the vertical lever is moved thereby and actuates the embroi-
dery arms, crossing or uncrossing them according to the starting
position.
Auxiliary tables are contrived to suit different descriptions of sewing
machines. Some machines have the cloth plate elevated above the level
of the sewing machine table and others have it on the same or nearly
the same level. Provision is made for both according to this Invention.
The auxiliary table is for use to help sustain heavy material and give
additional table space. When not required this table is disengaged and
dropped under the table and within its edge out of the way. Brackets
provided with a slot working on a pin or a pin working in a slot recess
or slide at one end and secured to the auxiliary table at the other end
have a beak, projection, or shoulder resting either on the edge of the main
table, or on some ledge, rest, or projection thereon.
Where the two tables are on the same level the adjacent edge of the
auxiliary table may take and rest on the moulded edge of the main
table. The auxiliary table is clamped by its own weight to the main
table. Where the bracket has a slot and hangs on a pin underneath the
main table the pin drops into a recess in one end of the slot, the weight
of the table securing it until lifted. Or the recess may be provided
elsewhere on the bracket for an independent pin to engage it, or the end
of the beak may be worked so as to engage its rest in all cases except
where the table is lifted.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuanco of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Michael Henry in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 31st July 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MICHAEL
HENRY, of Fleet Chambers, 68, Fleet Street, in the City of London,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of January, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one, in
the thirty-fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Michael Henry, Her special
licence that I, the said Michael Henry, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Michael Henry, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein.
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES," communicated to me from abroad by W. A. Mack, of
Norwalk, Ohio, and James Blake, of Scranton, Pennsylvania, both in
the United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said Michael Henry, my executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Michael Henry, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof as communicated to me, reference
being had to the accompanying Drawings and to the letters and figures
marked thereon, that is to say :-
The improvements in sewing machines are as herein-after described.
According to the first improvement a horizontal shuttle lever is pivoted
under the cloth plate, carrying the shuttle in a shuttle cradle at one

page_text: end, and having a forked or ball termination at the other end, which in
either case is operated upon and actuated by a pendant lever, having
conversely either a ball or forked termination, and which is itself moved
by a cam on the main elevated shaft, running through the goose neck
of the sewing machine.
In the second improvement a number of entire and sub-combinations
are used to operate a drop or four motion feed of sewing machines. A
double shouldered push rod is operated by a short arm projecting from
the horizontal shuttle lever, at right angles thereto, at its point of
suspension and support. This push rod performs the double function
of elevating the feed bar, and also depressing the same, each at the
proper time, by the action of the bent or double shouldered part upon
the sides of the hole in the feed bar through which it passes. This push
rod receives its necessary forward and backward movement from the
shuttle lever above described, as it moves in a sector of a circle forward
and backward, describing an arc of a circle with the shuttle which
it carries. In the end of the vertical arm of a right-angled double-
armed device the far end of the above-described push rod penetrates,
and into the end of its horizontal arm the end of a walking beam lever
penetrates, a pendant rod carries a cup which receives a vertical motion
from a cam on the main shaft. The near end of the walking beam
lever carries a screw pin which comes down through a hole in the cloth
plate of the machine, but is not secured thereto; it takes in the cup
of the pendant rod at proper intervals. After the contact of the cup
and screw pin the further elevation of the pendant rod operates the
walking beam lever, which moving the double-arm piece moves the
end of the push rod, and consequently the feed bar. The adjustment
of the screw pin therefore controls the length of the stitch.
In the third improvement, there are take-up devices for taking up the
slack of the needle thread by means of a curved pendant lever having
an eye at its lower end and operated by a pin on the needle bar, which
moves on the concave side of the lever, and forces it up by a positive
action on the lower limb of the concave, when the needle bar approaches
the lower limit of its motion, and the slack is required for the passage
of the shuttle, and also by the same action on the upper limb of the
concave when tension is about to occur in tightening the stitch. This
pendent concave lever is controlled in the opposite direction only by a
spiral spring, strong enough to take up the slack when the thread is free,

page_text: but permitting the needle thread in case of accidental detention else.
where to operate it and the lever without danger of breaking it. In
other words, the needle thread is never exposed to a positive action of
the take-up lever and pin, or any strain therefrom, stronger than
that of the take-up spring, and when working as intended the thread
is not called upon to operate the take-up spring and lever, but the pin
on the needle bar positively overcomes this spring and offers the needle
thread freely to the proper uses thereof at each end of the movement of
the needle bar.
The fourth improvement relates to a shuttle spring and head of the
following description:-
In order that these parts may be understood I will mention that an
ordinary shuttle head screws in, and may get started in use, and catch
and break the needle thread in passing through its loop, and with the
shuttle tension spring which is sometimes secured down at one end by a
screw holding in the wall of the shuttle, and held at the other end by a
groove cut in the screw head, whereas my improved shuttle head is
somewhat triangular, and has a pin at its smallest end fitted to a hole
in the shuttle wall, and at the larger end it has a recess cut for the
hook end of the shuttle spring, and a top piece projecting above a
shoulder which takes under the shuttle case, until it comes flush with
the flat side of the shuttle. This head takes one bearing of the bobbin,
and sets inside the shuttle, and is held there firmly by the pin at one
end and the hooked spring at the other. This spring at the end near
the point of the shuttle hooks firmly into a hole in the shuttle wall,
and has holes for the thread, which coming up through the open longitu-
dinal slit near by, is passed through any number of these holes which is
required before the hook of the other end is slidden over out of the recess
made for it, and where it remains while the head is being inserted in its
place. This hook when slidden over the large end of the head and seated
in the recess therein not only secures the head, without the occupation
of valuable space, in the shuttle for the threads of the otherwise necessary
screw, but it acts as a guide to safely conduct the needle thread
off the shuttle. When an attempt is made to hold the tension spring
of the shuttle, by simply engaging each end, tension depends entirely
on the elasticity of this spring, and cannot be kept uniform. Now in
this improved arrangement, this spring being held by a strong hook,
firmly engaged at each end, the dependence is on the entire tensile

page_text: strength of this spring, and the tension must consequently be uniform.
This shuttle touches the arc, against which it rubs only at toe, and heel,
consequently the wear only sharpens its point, and tends to ensure the
engagement of the needle thread loop, and also to steady the shuttle
when in motion.
In the fifth improvement a gathering attachment composed of, first,
a more or less perpendicular plait bar having two spring plates or jaws
on its lower end, converging at their forward ends, which are serrated
and intended to pinch and securely hold the cloth to be gathered
when a forward movement is made, and also to slip easily over the
same when a backward movement is made for the purpose of taking
up a new measure of cloth. This plait bar is hung by its middle
to a boss which is attached to the sewing machine head, and is
operated by the contact of a boss on the needle bar, coming in contact
with the top thereof in its upward motion, and with an adjustable
cam plate in its downward motion. This adjustable cam plate governs
the size of the gather. One or more pieces or thicknesses of cloth
may be entrusted to these spring fingers, nippers, or jaws, to be gathered
either alone or to one band, or between two bands or pieces of plain
cloth, all or any of which will be sewed as the gathering proceeds
by one seam, the fold being each time pressed up under the presser
foot until engaged by the needle, when the boss which moved the
nippers forward now strikes the cam plate, moving them backward.
The plain pieces may be folded or felled and thus stitched on to
the ruffle, or left with a raw edge, and stitched on to the same and
upon either side. Instead of the spring fingers or nippers two opposing
jaws may be used, to which a slight open and shut movement is
given by the same boss on the needle bar in the backward and forward
movement incident to gathering. Practically these nippers, fingers, or
jaws closely imitate the action of the thumb and finger when engaged
in gathering by hand. They may all receive an alternating down-
ward and upward slant as moved forward, whereby box plaiting may
be done.
According to the sixth improvement, an embroidery attachment
operated by the boss of the needle bar, is attached to the sewing a
machine. It comprises the following parts: First, a frame to be
screwed to the head to which the details are attached as follows:-
A lever taking on the boss of the needle bar at one end and on the
-

page_text: frame of the attachment at the other, having a spring pawl near its
centre which takes in the teeth of a ratchet wheel rotating in a plane
parallel to the plane of the lever movement. Secondly, a ratchet wheel
having on its opposite face a groove of a star shape, so as to have
an out and in cam action on a pin moving therein, which is secured
to a vertical lever of the third class. Thirdly, there is a lever which is
provided with a pin moving in the star shaped groove, and is secured
to the frame aforesaid at one end, and the pin shaped opposite end
takes in the diagonal slots of two embroidery arms which are bent
around in front of the needle, and also in a straight slot in the foot
part of the frame. Fourthly, a stop spring which engages the teeth
of the ratchet face and prevents backward motion of the same when
the needle bar depresses the actuating lever, the actuating lever being
lifted by the needle bar and boss and engaged by the pawl to the
ratchet wheel, this last is moved a step thereby. The cam coincidently
operating on the pin of the vertical lever of the third class is moved
thereby, and itself actuates the embroidery arms, either crossing or
uncrossing them according to the position at starting.
The seventh improvement relates to auxiliary tables for sewing
machines so contrived as to be suited to different styles of sewing
machines. Some kinds of machines have the cloth plate elevated above the
general level of the sewing machine table, and others have the cloth
plate on the same or nearly the same level as the sewing machine table.
Provision is made (according to this part of my Invention) for these
variations. The auxiliary table is for use when more than ordinarily
heavy or voluminous material is being operated upon to help sustain
the same, and in some other cases to give additional table space. When
not required for use, this table is designed to be disengaged from its
place and dropped under the table, and within the edge theroof, out
of the way. For this purpose brackets are used, being provided with
either a slot working on a pin or a pin working in a slot recess or
slide at one end, and secured firmly to the auxiliary table at the other
end. This bracket also has a beak, projection, or shoulder intended
to rest either on the edge of the main table, or on some ledge, rest, or
projection thereon. Where the two tables are on the same level, the
adjacent edge of the auxiliary may be made to take and rest on the
moulded edge of the main table. The two tables are held in fixed
relations to each other by devices slightly varying according to the

page_text: character of the other details, but in all the principle of action is, that
the auxiliary table is clamped by the action of its own weight to the
main table. Where the bracket has a slot and hangs on a pin secured
underneath the main table the said pin drops into a recess in one
end of the slot, the weight of the table securing the same until it is
lifted by the hand, or the recess may in other cases be provided else-
where on the bracket for an independent pin to engage it for securing
the same result. Or, according to another method, the end of the
beak may be hooked so as to engage its rest in all cases except when
the table is designedly lifted by hand.
Having now set forth the nature of the said Invention, I proceed
to describe more particularly with reference to the accompanying
Drawings in what manner the Invention may be carried into practical
effect.
I first proceed to describe Sheet I. of the accompanying Drawings.
As regards the first improvement, L is a horizontal shuttle lever
(Figure 11, Sheet 1) pivoted under the cloth plate carrying the shuttle
U¹ in a shuttle cradle or carrier at one end thereof, and having a forked
termination J, or in place thereof a ball termination like B¹. Whether
the ball or the fork terminate the lever L, it is actuated by the pendent
lever L having at its termination in contact therewith either a ball
or fork to match. That lever L is hung on a pin in the middle, and
is operated by a cam on the main elevated shaft which carries the
pin P, Figure 9, Sheet 1, and operates the needle bar H passing through
the goose neck of the sewing machine. There is no stationary race
in which the shuttle slides, but it is carried as it were in the hand, or
between the carrier and the face plate.
In the second improvement there are a number of entire and sub-
combinations, used to operate a drop or four motion feed of sewing
machines, the first element of which is a double shouldered push
rod R, Figures 10 and 11, Sheet 1, operated by a short arm a¹¹, Figure 11,
Sheet 1, projecting from the horizontal shuttle lever Lat right angles
thereto, from the boss or point of suspension and support. Thus push
rod R performs the double function of elevating and depressing the
feed bar E, Figure 11, Sheet 1, positively each at the proper time by
the action of the bent or double shouldered part d (see detail, Figure 11,
Sheet 1) upon the sides of the hole in the feed bar E, through which
it passes. This push rod receives its necessary forward and backward

page_text: movement from the shuttle lever L above described, as it moves in a
segment of a circle forward and backward describing an arc of a circle
with the shuttle U₁, which it carries. The second element is a right
angled double armed contrivance or device into the end of the vertical
arm a¹, of which the far end of the push rod R beyond the shoulders
penetrates. Into the end of the other arm a of this device the end
of the walking beam lever L¹ penetrates. This lever L has a periodical
tilting action, and may be considered the third element. The fourth
is a pendant rod R, which carries a cup on the bent up bottom end
in which the stitch regulating thumbscrew m³, Figures 9 and 10, Sheet 1,
rests after taking a thread provided in the hole for the same, in the
end of the tilting or walking beam lever L'. This rod R³ receives a
vertical motion from a cam on the same elevated main shaft which
drives the needle bar N and pendant lever L". The thumbscrew m¹
passes free through a hole in the cloth plate, and may therefore rise
and fall with the other parts attached. The cup C", Figures 9, 10,
and 11, is not in contact with m¹ during its entire motion always, but
after their contact the further elevation of the pendant rod R' operates
the walking beam lever L¹. The arm a thereupon receives motion
which is communicated first to the end of the push rod R and thence
to the feed bar E. The distance for which this bar E is moved is con-
trolled by the relation of the thumbscrew m¹ to the cap C", and con-
sequently the length of stitch taken by the machine.
In the third improvement take-up devices are used for handling the
slack of the thread. It may be stated as the novel principle of this
arrangement to furnish the thread for the loop, and the passage of the
shuttle at the bottom or last part of the downward motion of the needle
bar, and also at the opposite terminus of its motion by the positive
action of the pin p¹, Figure 9, Sheet 1, upon one side of a curved
lever u, while the thread is at no time called upon to resist anything
stronger than the spring g, which gently keeps the lever u against the
pin p'. This lever u, Figure 9, is provided with an eye e¹, the neck of
which comes from inside the face plate, and travels in the slot S",
passing under the usual bridge, straddling the same near the line of
thread when straightened to draw the under thread up into the cloth.
The pin p¹ not sliding in a slot or guide of the lever u, that lever is
always free on one side, and to move towards the bridge provided as
above. With these provisions very delicate and fine thread can be used

page_text: in this machine with very trifling danger of breakage, as under usual
circumstances the thread is not called upon as in most machines to
either operate the take-up lever or receive any greater strain than may
be necessary to take up slack thread.
used.
The fourth improvement relates to shuttle devices, viz. :-In these
improved arrangements a spring and head of peculiar construction are
It is usually the custom to provide the shuttle with some form
of screw head to be inserted after the bobbin, screw heads have the
defect of sometimes catching and breaking the needle thread when
they become started in practical use, and they also occupy a considerable
portion of the bobbin space. The tension spring of the shuttle usually
or frequently has one end slipped under this screw head, while the other
end is securely hooked in the wall of the shuttle.
The principal defect of this arrangement is that the spring is not
fixed and held with certainty, but depends upon the stiffness or elasticity
alone for the character of its performance.
The improved shuttle head constructed according to this Invention
is represented in the detail end view, Figures 10 and 11, Sheet 1, and is
somewhat triangular in form with a pin at its smallest end at u' fitted
to be inserted in a hole in the shuttle wall. It has at its largest end
a recess for the hook end at g¹ of the tension spring of a shoulder, taking
under the shuttle case, and a top piece projecting above the shoulder
and into recess of the shuttle wall cut therefor, and flush with that wall
under the spring near its hook. This head takes one bearing of the
bobbin and is within the end of the shuttle case where it is held by
the pin at one end. This spring g has holes for the thread, which coming
up through the open longitudinal slit nearly is passed through any
required number of holes before the hook of the end towards the heel
of the shuttle is slid over out of the recess made for it, and where it
remains aside while the head is being inserted in its place. This hook
when slid over the large end of the head, and seated in the recess
therein, not only secures the head without the occupation of valuable
space inside the shuttle for the threads of the otherwise necessary screw
head, but it also acts as a guide to safely conduct the needle thread
off the shuttle at its rear end. The spring g being held in a fixed
position by a strong hook at each end firmly engaged, the dependance
is on the entire tensile strength of this spring, and not simply on its

page_text: elasticity, and the tension of the shuttle thread must therefore be
exceedingly uniform and under complete control.
The fifth improvement relates to a gathering attachment having two
spring plates or jaws which act upon the material between them as
nippers or jaws, see U, Figures 4 to 8 inclusive, Sheet 1. These nippers
or jaws are attached to a plait bar preferably attached to a boss 61111,
which is constructed as part of the detachable presser foot f. These
plates when used as nippers converge upon each other at their forward
ends which are serrated and intended to finish and securely hold the
cloth to be gathered when a forward movement is made, and also to
slip easily over the same when a backward movement is required for the
purpose of taking up a new measure of cloth. As thus described the
nipper plates, except as to springiness, are in fixed relations to cach
other, but they may be made related to each other as jaws and hung on
a hinge, roughened contiguous surfaces of some extent being provided
which shall hold the material for some distance back from the front
edge thereof between parallel jaws instead of nipping the same with a
tweezer-like action. The plait bar is hung by its middle when
attached to the head and placed vertically, and is operated by the contact
of a button or projection 61, Figure 4, on the needle bar with the top
thereof in its upward motion and with an adjustable cam plate C¹ in its
downward motion. This cam plate has a slot S¹¹, a screw pin W, and
is hung to the plait bar ♬ by a pin p". It governs the size of the
gather according as it is placed and held by its screw pin. When the
plait bar is placed horizontally it may slide in ways either attached to
the head or to the cloth plate of the machine, and in that case the
complete and upper limb of the bar are bent towards each other so as
to embrace the boss b¹ on the needle bar and receive the requisite
backward and forward motion therefrom. One or more thicknesses or
pieces of cloth may be entrusted to the spring nippers, fingers, or jaws
to be gathered either alone or gathered and sewed to one band or
between two bands or pieces of plain cloth at one time and by one seam;
the upper one of these bands slides along freely in the recess provided
above the nippers, &c., and the under one or more below the nippers,
and between them and the bottom part of the feed E. In use the fold
being each time pressed up under the foot by the action of the boss on
the top of the plait bar until engaged by the needle. When the boss
descends it strikes the cam plate C¹ and moves the nippers backwards
over the cloth. The plain piece or pieces may be folded either separately

page_text: or by a felling device in the toe of the presser foot or otherwise and so
felled into the raffle, or they may be left with a raw edge if desired and
be so attached to the raffle.
When it is desired to do what is technically known as box plaiting I
employ nearly the same devices with slight modifications with the
addition of the arm A¹, A", operated by the mechanism, shewn in
Figures 7 and 8, Sheet 1.
In that case the nippers N are attached to
the plait bar C¹ by the pin or hinge joint v in order that they may
receive the requisite alternate upward and downward deflection from the
arms A¹ and A", which also serve as folders for the ruffles or gathers,
the cloth being turned alternately on the edge of each; these arms A¹
and A¹ receive their alternate motions, one striking below and the other
above the nippers, from mechanism which will become fully described
herein-after in that part of this Specification which refers to the
embroidery attachment described as follows, viz., first, a frame B to be
screwed to the head of the sewing machine to which the details are
attached as follows, viz., a lever K taking preferably with a fork on the
boss b on the needle bar N (see Figures 1, 2, and 3, Sheet 1,) at one
end and on the frame of the attachment B by the screw in the centre of
the double faced ratchet and cam plate or wheel C. This lever has a
spring pawl g, p¹, which takes in the teeth on one side of C, and by
its aid the lever K. rotates the wheel C in a plane parallel to the
plane of its own movement whenever it is carried up by the elevation
of the needle bar N. On the other side of the wheel C is a star cam,
see Figure 1, having half as many projecting and half as many re-
entering points as there are ratchet teeth on the opposite side thereof,
see Figure 2. In this star cam grooved into the face of the wheel C is
a pin p fixed in the lever b, which lever terminates in the pin t. This
pint takes in both of the diagonal slots 8¹, S₁, in the arms A, A, and
also in the straight slot S₁ provided in the foot of the body B and
intended to guide and steady the same. The lever C is secured at the
upper end to an arm ending in the boss 6 which projects from the
body B. The arms A, A, are bent around so as to come in front of
the needle and have eyes in their extreme ends for the embroidery
threads, see Figures 1, 2, & 3. A stop spring q¹ engages the teeth of
the ratchet face and prevents backward motion when the needle bar
depresses the actuating bar k. The actuating lever being lifted by the
• needle bar and boss and engaged by the pawl pin p to the wheel C, this
last is moved a step thereby. The star cam on the opposite side

page_text: coincidently operates on the pin p of the lever C, it is moved thereby;
and itself actuates the embroidery arms, either crossing or uncrossing
them according to the position at starting. The actuating lever being
depressed by the same means, viz., the motion of the needle bar, the
motions of all the moving parts are reversed and all co-ordinately with
the usual action of the sewing machine, and the embroidery threads
being thereby crossed in the usual manner under or before the needle
they are secured in their places in the cloth in the action of the stitching
mechanism with which they co-operate.
The seventh improvement relates to auxiliary tables for sewing-
machine stands, so contrived as by modifications to be suited to different
styles of machines. Some of these machines have the cloth plate
elevated above the general level of the sewing machine table, and others
have them placed on the same level, or nearly so. Provision is made
in this part of the Invention for adaptation to these variations, as shewn
in the various forms, see Drawing, Sheet 2.
The auxiliary table is for use when more than ordinarily heavy or
voluminous material is being operated upon to help hold the same and
give additional table space. When not required for use this table is
designed to be disengaged from its place in position and dropped under
the table out of the way against the table legs. The essential elements
or details for accomplishing these objects are shewn in Figures 1 to 15
inclusive, Sheet 2, and consist of brackets or arms D of greater or lesser
length, provided with either a slot 6 working on a pin (a) Figures 1
to 9, or a pin a placed on the bracket D and moveable in the stationary
slot recess or slide 6 at one end and secured firmly to the auxiliary
table C¹¹ at the other end. This bracket D has also a beak, projection,
or shoulder provided on some part of the same C, intended to rest, as
shewn in the Drawing, either on the edge of the main table A, or
on some ledge, rest, or projection thereon for that purpose made and
provided, as at r, Figures 11 to 15, Sheet 2.
In cases where the two tables A and C are on the same level the
adjacent edge of the auxiliary may be made to take and rest on the
moulded edge of the main table, see Figures 5, 7, and 8.
The two tables are held in fixed relations to each other by devices
slightly varying according to the character of the other details, but in
all the principle of action or function is, that the auxiliary table is
clamped by the effect of its own weight to the main table through the

page_text: dropping or rising of the pin a into a sub-recess either in the main
recess or slot b, or in some near part where equivalent results can be
had. The clamp may be instantly relieved in all cases by grasping the
outer end of the main table and gently elevating the same until the
pin a or its sub-recess are disengaged, when a slight pull being made
the two tables will be separated far enough to permit their proximate
edges to pass each other and allow the auxiliary table to drop under and
within the upper edge of the main table out of the way.
In putting
the auxiliary table in position for use these movements are exactly
reversed.
The exact shapes of the pin a and of the sub-recess shewn in the
Drawings are not essential, but they should be so contrived as to resist
a separating pull at the auxiliary table in the plane of the main table,
and their necessary location need not be a determined or fixed one as
considerable variation may occur in this particular.
In Sheet 3 the Figures shew one form or modification of the above-
described method of driving the shuttle lever, viz., by means of a
pendant lever L" operating in the fork of the shuttle lever L. On the
end of the shuttle lever L is a ball instead of a fork termination and
the pendant lever L has a hooked fork instead of a ball termination,
which extends down over the ball of the shuttle lever, and helps protect
it from dust, &c.
In my sewing machine the shuttle is held and driven in a carrier, and
is kept against the face plate partly by the bevelled shape of the shuttle
carrier sloping towards the same. In Figure 1* is shewn a flat carrier,
on which my shuttle rests when that form is used, and being over-
balanced by adjustment of weight naturally falls over and against the
face plate when at rest, but in action the centrifugal force tends to
keep the shuttle sufficiently close to the face plate without the action of
spring or bevelled surface, as is required when the carrier is placed on
a vertical arm and the centrifugal action is away from the face plate.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same may be performed, I declare that I claim,―
First. The combination of the double-armed contrivance or device
a, a¹, with the double-shouldered rod R and the feed bar E as described.
Second. The shuttle lever L and pushing lever or rod R arranged and
operating as described.

page_text: Third. The combination of the pendant rod L" and the walking beam
lever L' for the purpose of operating the feed bar E.
Fourth. The combination of the adjusting thumbscrew m³, patent
lever L", and walking beam lever L', for the purpose of controlling the
length of the step or stitch.
Fifth. The combination of the walking beam lever L³ and double-
armed feeding and retreating device a, a¹, for the purpose of giving
motion to the feed bar E.
Sixth. The shuttle lever L and pushing rod R combined and operated
by the pendant lever L" as described.
Seventh. The arm u, constructed as shewn, and operated positively
at each end of stroke of the needle bar by the pin p (see Figure 9), or
its equivalent, and as required and permitted by the spring g¹¹¹, as set
forth.
Eighth. The shuttle u' provided with the removable head and hooked
spring, all constructed as described.
Ninth. The notched spring fingers or nippers converging towards
each other at the ends nearest the presser foot, and shaped to positively
retain and carry the material lying between them during their forward
movement, and in their backward movement slip over the same as
described.
Tenth. The adjustable plate cam C¹ in combination with the nippers n
to measure the plait or gather.
Eleventh. The plate bar provided with the nippers n and carrying
the same either vertically or horizontally.
Twelfth. The combination with the presser foot and the plait bar C¹
having the nippers M of the spring c and stay screw bª.
Thirteenth. The combination with the support or body B, arranged
for attachment to the sewing machine, of the cam and ratchet wheel C,
lever L, and slotted arms A, A, constructed, arranged, and operated as
described.
Fourteenth. The combination of the nippers n and slotted arms
A', A", as described.
Fifteenth. The combination of the nippers m, slotted arms A¹, A¹,
cam C, levers land k as described, and for the purposes set forth.

page_text: Sixteenth. The arrangement in which there is or are a point or points
of attachment and suspension of an auxiliary table or other support in
a plane or planes within the vertical plane of the upper edge of the
main table or like convenience, substantially as described.
Seventeenth. The auxiliary table or support provided with a beak or
beaks C and an arm or bracket D for the purpose of sustaining it in
position, substantially as described.
Eighteenth. An auxiliary table provided with one or more beaks C
and one or more stops co-ordinated for the purpose of securing it in
position, substantially as described and shewn.
Nineteenth. An auxiliary table having one or more brackets or arms
D provided with a pin a co-ordinated with the beak or rest C, for the
purpose of holding such table either in a horizontal or pendant position
at will, as above described.
Twentieth. The forked and hooded pendant lever L'in combination
with the lever L with ball termination and the shuttle carrier, as
described.
Twenty-first. The flat shuttle carrier A made and operated so as to
depend upon centrifugal action in throwing its shuttle against the face
plate, substantially as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Michael Henry, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirty-first day of July, in the One
year
thousand eight hundred and seventy-one.
Witness,
E. EDMONDS,
68, Fleet Street,
London.
MICHAEL HENRY. (L.S.)