CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU- FACTURE OF PILED FIGURED FABRICS BY ALTERATIONS IN AND ADDITIONS TO LOOMS FOR WEAVING, INCLUDING ALSO A WARPING MACHINE, WITH A METHOD OF READING AND ARRANGING THE COLORS OR MATERIALS FOR THE PATTERNS FOR SUCH FIGURED FABRICS
Year: 1853

page_text: in the Empire of France, late a Shipowner, but now out of busi-
ness, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF PILED FIGURED FABRICS BY ALTERATIONS IN AND ADDITIONS
TO LOOMS FOR WEAVING, INCLUDING ALSO A WARPING MACHINE, WITH A
METHOD OF READING AND ARRANGING THE COLORS OR MATERIALS FOR
THE PATTERNS FOR SUCH FIGURED FABRICS."
Sealed the 24th September 1853, and dated the 24th March 1853.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Victor Fre-
deric de Roulet at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with his Petition, on the 24th March 1853.
I, CHARLES VICTOR FREDERIC DE ROULET, of Paris, in the Empire of
France, late a Shipowner, but now out of business, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF PILED FIGURED FABRICS BY ALTERATIONS IN AND ADDITIONS TO
LOOMS FOR WEAVING, INCLUDING ALSO A WARPING MACHINE, WITH A METHOD
OF READING AND ARRANGING THE COLORS OR MATERIALS FOR THE PATTERNS
FOR SUCH FIGURED FABRICS," to be as follows:-

page_text: It consists in the separate preparation of the threads intended to
form the pile and the design of the stuff, independently of the threads
of the warp and in the means of uniting them. The warp threads,
which may be of common material, such as hemp or cotton, are
stretched on the loom in the ordinary manner. The pile threads are
disposed in such order as is required by the design round moveable
rollers, the number of which is regulated by the design. The pile
threads so arranged on each moveable roller are introduced in
succession between the threads of the warp of the loom, and fastened
in by means of the woof. The mobility of the rollers enables the work-
man to change them at every passage of the woof, and as the colours
may be different on each roller, the number of the shades in the design
can be multiplied without losing the costly materials in the body of the
stuff; and the stuff has no wrong side, properly so called, for the design
repeats itself on the two surfaces, the one piled or velveted, the other
smooth. The following is the arrangement of the colours and reading
of the design-First, when coloured materials are used I divide every
colour into a series or scale of ten tints, each one bearing its number,
increasing always from the light to the dark. If I begin by the red,
the palest shade of that colour will be No. 1, and the darkest No. 10.
If I make the yellow follow the red, the lightest shade of the yellow
will be No. 11, and the darkest No. 20. The blue would begin at
No. 21, and finish at No. 30; and thus all the colours would follow.
The shades of the series may be multiplied by introducing new inter-
mediate tints, and each scale carried to 15 or 20 tints or more. Then
the red would include from 1 to 15 or 20 or more; the yellow and
others would follow; and if gold or silver thread or different materials
are used, they are numbered also.
Each shade is wound upon a bobbin ticketed with the number of the
tint of the scale which it is to represent. If my design exhibits 500
"shades, the bobbins will be ticketed from 1 to 500.
I compose my design on paper, and not being limited for the
number of colours I can use shades as numerous and as gradual as
I please, or as my model requires. I trace upon the design itself
longitudinal lines, which I cross with transverse lines, as if forming a

page_text: draught board with very small squares. I inscribe in each square the
number of the shade which it encloses. When all the squares are
numbered, I begin my reading of the design from right to left, begin-
ning with the end which is first to be copied. Suppose that I find four
squares numbered 9, I write on a sheet of common paper in two
columns,
4 (number of threads)
9 (No. of the shade).
If I find following two squares bearing the number 25, I write under-
neath the first numbers,
2
.
25.
And thus to the end of the first line of squares, which represents one
line of the drawing and one strip of the stuff to be manufactured. I
then make a line or other mark under the two columns of figures to
shew it is the end of the line. And I go through the same operation
for every line till I have entirely exhausted the squares; that is to say,
read off the whole design.
This simple sheet of paper covered with figures represents then the
reading of a design for manufacture.
PREPARATION OF THE PILE THREADS.
The warping of the pile threads is performed by the help of a machine
called a warper, which is composed of a frame formed by four vertical
posts bound by cross or horizontal bars. The breast board of this
frame supports a comb composed of small plates of metal, which has its
teeth turned upwards, and extends from right to left, the width of the
board. There must be as many teeth in this comb as there are squares
in a line of the design.
For convenience in drawing the threads of the reels, there are
behind the breast board some frames, in shape somewhat like the sails
of a windmill, having spokes or radii furnished with pegs to receive the
reels on which the materials are first wound.
These frames are made to lift upwards in order that the reels may
be placed on the lower spokes in the middle of the apparatus or with-
drawn from it. But this part of the process may be effected without
these frames by any other arrangement of the reels whereby they are
sufficiently accessible.

page_text: In front of the board are two horizontal cylinders mounted upon an
axis fastened to the two sides of the frame. Their function is to stretch
tight the threads that are to be wound to the moveable rollers. The
moveable rollers are successively, as required, fixed in front of the two
cylinders to two metal boxes supported by flexible arms, which allow
of the moveable rollers being put in or withdrawn at pleasure. These
cylinders are turned by cogged wheels and by a handle in winding the
threads. To effect the warping of the pile threads, I place the reels,
numbered as before stated, upon the spokes or radii of the frames.
From these reels I introduce the threads one by one between the
teeth of the comb, following the order pointed out by the figures, begin-
ning at the right hand. Thus I find on my reading paper, 4.
.
. 9.
I place in each of the four first teeth a thread of the shade No. 9. Then
I find 2
25. I put a thread of the shale No. 25, in
the 5th and 6th tooth, and so on. When the teeth of the comb are all
filled, I wind all the threads of the length I require on the moveable
roller, which I number No. 1, because it will furnish me with the
threads of the first line of my design, and of the first strip or portion of
my stuff. I commence a similar operation for a second roller, which I
number No. 2, and so on, till the columns of the figures of my reading
paper are exhausted. Then each roller represents a line of design.
But before cutting off the threads of a roller I secure the extremi-
ties of these threads in a slider which accompanies each roller, and
which is moveable like it.
This slider is composed of two wooden rulers, having about the same
length as the roller. These two rulers are brought together, and
fastened and separated as required from time to time by springs and
stays.
One of the rulers is furnished with a metal comb, the teeth of which are
curved backward. To introduce the threads of the moveable roller into
the slider, I separate the two rulers of which this is composed; I slide one
ruler under the row of the threads, making its teeth coincide with the
teeth of the comb of the breast board; I press upon the threads, which
at the same time enter each into its compartment between the teeth of
the comb of the ruler, and I prevent them from escaping, by passing

page_text: into the curves, formed by the extremities of the teeth of the comb, a
brass rod; then. I readjust together the two rulers, which gripe the
threads between them.
I may then proceed to the operation of weaving. The loom I use
for weaving is composed, first, of a frame formed by six vertical posts,
bound together by transverse horizontal bars. The loops or eyes of
the heddles of ordinary looms are here replaced by one or many rows
of vertical plates of metal (here called heddle plates), disposed in
parallel lines, and independent of one another at the top; they are fixed
at the foot to a horizontal tree, which crosses from one side to another
of the loom, and is placed under the warp. A treadle, moving each of
such trees, raises and lowers the rows of heddle plates alternately or
simultaneously as required, and with them it raises or lowers the threads
of the warp, in order that the woof may be passed through it. This
permits the introduction of the pile threads between the warp threads.
A cylinder, which I name thread depresser, is suspended horizontally
over the breadth of the warp by two arms fastened to the loom and
turning upon an axis. This thread depresser serves to bend the warp
from above downwards behind the heddle plates; it facilitates the intro-
duction of the pile thread between the heddle plates and the threads of
the warp.
The batten has its axis fixed to the lower part of the loom, and it is
furnished along its upper length with a comb, open at its top, the teeth
of which correspond to the heddle plates. In the motion backwards
and forwards of the batten the teeth of its comb pass above the surface
of the warp, only from a third to two thirds of an inch. All these
machines having their resting points beneath the warp, and the surface
of it being free and disengaged from moving pieces, the materials of the
moveable rollers to form the pile can be introduced without obstacle
between the heddle plates, and consequently between the threads of the
warp, as far as is necessary to allow the passage of the woof.
To effect their introduction an arm or beam is placed above on each
side of the loom with a box in cach, similar to those of the warper, and
capable of revolving, in which the moveable rollers are successively
fitted at their extremities, and suspended horizontally over the breadth

page_text: of the warp.
One of these boxes is fixed to a cogged wheel with &
counterpoise attached, and a catch moved by a treadle stops the rotatory
movement of the cogged wheel and of the roller.
A breast board, fastened to the upper part of the front of the loom,
binds the two front posts on the right and left, and consolidates all the
machinery.
A pair of nippers is attached to this board on the inner side, com-
posed of two pieces of metal, the whole width of the warp.
Its upper
jaw is moveable, it opens like the lid of a box by means of a treadle,
and the lower is fixed.
The functions of these nippers is to receive and bite the extremity of
the pile threads presented to it by the slider.
Underneath the nippers is placed in a parallel position a piece of
metal of triangular shape, called a supporting piece, which is fastened
to the breast board by long screws, descending perpendicularly from it.
It supports the stuff at the point where the weaving is executed. As
it is moved up and down the length of its vertical screws at pleasure by
means of nuts, which hold underneath, the supporting piece serves at
the same time to regulate the height of the pile.
Between the nippers and the supporting piece is the blade of a cutting
instrument, which is made to pass beyond the nippers and cut off the
threads of the roller under the nippers.
In order that these threads may be cut off with neatness they are
drawn close against the nippers by means of a transverse piece of iron,
the length of the nippers, called a press thread. This piece of iron is
attached to the upper part of two crooked trees, one on each side of
the loom, which move on an axis fixed at the lower part of the loom,
and are so bent as to enable them to reach from a point beneath, where
the moveable rollers are placed, up to the nippers. When brought up
to the nippers the press thread is held there by a hook, called the fasten-
ing hook. The press thread thus fastened forms with the nippers a
vice, where the line of threads to be cut off is kept secured. The
cutting instrument coming from under the nippers passes into a groove
made along the front of the press thread, and cuts off the threads which
are held between them.

page_text: OPERATION OF THE WEAVING."
After some strokes of the shuttle to form a selvage I place the move-
able roller ticketed No. 1, in the boxes before described above the loom.
I bring the slider to me, and with it the pile threads. I present all
the ends at once to the nippers, and secure them there. The cogged
wheel attached to one of the boxes being drawn back by a counterpoise
stretches the pile threads between the nippers and the roller. I open
the rulers of the slider, and I raise it along the threads so nipped to a
point above, where the heddle plates act. I raise a line of these plates,
and with it the threads of the warp which it supports, which produces
the opening where the woof is to pass. I bring down the thread de-
presser, which depresses the warp behind the plates, and this allows me
to bring down the slider behind the plates, and to introduce the pile
threads from the moveable roller between the threads of the warp. I
stop then the cogged wheel which turns the rollers by the catch, in order
that the threads introduced may not go up again. I pass a thread of the
woof underneath the threads of the warp raised by the line of plates
and over the pile threads so introduced. I release the thread depresser,
which ceases to depress the warp, and I return the slider and raise it to
its first position.
I strike with the batten the thread of the woof, which shuts up the
pile thread in the canvass. .I raise a second line of plates, then a third,
as may be necessary, and each time I pass a thread of woof, which I
strike with the batten, so that the threads which are to make the pile
are brought on each side the woof, from below upwards. (The number
of the lines of heddle plates is in accordance with the number of the
warps that I employ, according to the greater or less number of forms
that I intend to give to the canvass.) I then bring the press thread
against the nipper, and fix it there by the fastening hook. The press
thread in coming forward has found; on its way the pile threads (the
end of which is secured), has turned them up, and has brought them
against the nippers. I bring the cutter into play, which cuts all the
threads at one stroke, and a strip of the stuff is made.
I proceed in the same manner to make the rest, taking care to re-

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Charles Victor Frederic de Roulet, in the Great
Seal Patent Office, on the 24th September 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
CHARLES VICTOR FREDERIC DE ROULET, of Paris, in the Empire of
France, late a Shipowner, but now out of business, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in the sixteenth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Charles Victor Frederic de Roulet, Her special
licence that I, the said Charles Victor Frederic de Roulet, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Charles Victor
Frederic de Roulet, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an In-
vention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED
FIGURED FABRICS BY ALTERATIONS IN AND ADDITIONS TO LOOMS FOR WEAV-
ING, INCLUDING ALSO A WARPING MACHINE, WITH A METHOD OF READING AND
ARRANGING THE COLORS OR MATERIALS FOR THE PATTERNS OF SUCH FIGURED
FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Charles
Victor Frederic de Roulet, by an instrument in writing under my
hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent..
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Victor Frederic de Roulet,
do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner

page_text: the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the several
drawings or plans hereunto annexed, on which said drawings or plans
similar parts are marked and referred to by similar numbers, that is
to say:
My Invention consists in a method of preparing the threads intended
to form the pile and the pattern separately, and independently of the
threads of the warp, and uniting them up in the loom together, with
certain additions to and alterations of the machinery or apparatus for
each of these purposes, as herein-after described. The warp threads
(which may be of the ordinary material, as hemp or cotton,) are
stretched on the loom in the usual manner. The pile threads (which
will be of more costly materials-wool, silk, or even threads of gold or
silver), are wound in a particular order, according to the pattern which
is to be produced, round moveable rollers or large bobbins which
I shall hereafter call "the rollers," of which the number varies in-
definitely, according to the requirements of the design. The manufac-
ture of the fabric is effected by the successive introduction of the threads
of each roller between the threads of the warp in the loom, and the
uniting of them by means of a weft, which binds the one to the other.
One advantage of the process is this, that the rollers being moveable
can be changed at each passage of the weft, and that as each roller has
its own separate colors, the number of shades in the design can thus be
multiplied indefinitely, without sacrificing any of the costly materials
in the body of the fabric. Another advantage is, that the fabric has no
wrong side, properly so called, because the design is repeated on each
surface, the one piled or velveted, the other smooth.
The means and machinery by which these results are accomplished
are as follows:-First, as to the arrangement of the colors and the
reading of the design, I divide each color into a series or scale of ten
tints or shades, each bearing its own number, the darker shades having
the higher numbers; thus, beginning with the color red, the lightest
tint of that color will be No. 1, and the darkest, Number 10; if the
yellow follow the red, the lightest shade of the yellow will be No. 11,

page_text: and the darkest No. 20, and so as to the other colors required, suc-
cessively. The number of shades in each series may, however, be
multiplied by introducing intermediate tints, and so each scale may
be carried to 15 or 20 tints, or, if required, even more.
The same
arrangement applies to gold or silver threads, which have also their
appropriate numbers and series. Each separate shade is wound upon
a bobbin, which has a ticket denoting the number of the tint of the
scale represented by it, so that if the design exhibit five hundred shades
the bobbins will be ticketed from 1 to 500. The design is composed on
paper, and the number of colors not being limited, bears tints or shades
as numerous and as delicately graduated as the fancy of the artist or
the pattern to be imitated may require. Upon the design I trace
closely drawn longitudinal lines, crossed by transverse lines, so as to
form very small squares, and inscribe in each of these the number
appropriated to the tint or shade which that particular square encloses.
The squares having been all numbered, I read the design from right to
left, beginning with the end which is to be first worked; taking a sheet
of common paper I divide it into two columns, of which the first is
headed "number of threads," the other, "No. of the shade;" then
turning to my design, suppose, for example, I find at the part from
which I begin the reading four squares in succession, each numbered 9,
I write on the sheet of paper, in the first column, 4, and in the second
column, 9; if I next find two squares following in succession, each
bearing the Number 25, I write in the first column, under the other
number, 2, and in the second column, 25, and so on to the end of the
first line of squares in the design. I then draw a line under the two
columns of figures, so as to denote that the first line of the design ends
there, and then repeat the operation for each line until I have entirely
exhausted the squares, that is to say, read off the design.
Secondly, as to the preparation of the threads. The winding of the
threads intended to produce the pile and the pattern is effected by means
of a machine called a warping machine, or winder, or reel, which is
shown in vertical section on the plan or drawing D, and in horizontal
section on the plan or drawing E, and of which the following is a

page_text: description.
It consists, first, of a frame formed by four vertical
posts, Fig. I, (1), bound by transverse horizontal bars (2), the breast
board of the machine (3) supports a comb (4), which is composed of
small plates of metal having the teeth turned upwards, and extends from
right to left of the width of the board; the teeth of this comb are to be
equal in number to the squares in a line of the design. Behind the
breast board are sash frames or lattices (5), which I shall hereafter call
frames, somewhat like windmill sails in shape, arranged in parallelism
between the two transverse bars which fasten the two front posts to the
back ones of the framework of the machine, so as to present, in com-
bination, an appearance like that of a closed fan. The ribs or spokes of
each of these frames are furnished with pins to receive the bobbins,
which are placed upright upon them; the lower rib of each frame is
prolonged in the direction of the breast board by a rod (6), terminating
at an axle (7); on this axle the frames revolve from below upwards.
It is necessary to have the frames moveable in order to be able to place
the bobbins upon or remove them from the lower ribs of the frames
during the process.
In front of the breast board are two cylinders (8),
mounted horizontally on an axle, which is attached to the external
framework, the function of which cylinders is to stretch tight the
threads as they are being wound off from the bobbins upon the rollers.
These rollers are fixed in turn by their extremities in front of the two
cylinders (8) into two metal boxes (9), supported by flexible bars,
which allow of the rollers being put in or withdrawn at pleasure.
Two cogged wheels (10), moved by a handle, are placed on the right
side of the breast board, and communicate to the roller the rotation
required for the winding of the threads, and for calculating the lengths
of them.
To effect the winding of the pile threads, I place the bobbins con-
taining the numbered colors upon the pins of the ribs of the frames.
From these bobbins I carry the threads, beginning from the right, one
by one, following the order of the design, between the teeth of the
comb. Thus I find on my reading paper 4.
. . 9. I place in
each of the four first teeth a thread of the shade No. 9, then I find
2.25, and I put a thread of the shade No. 25, in the fifth and

page_text: sixth teeth, and so on. When the teeth of the comb are all filled, I
wind all the threads, of the length I require, on the roller, which I
number No. 1, because it will furnish me with the threads of the first
line of my design, and of the first strip or portion of my fabric. I
repeat the operation for a second roller, which I number No. 2, and so
on, till the columns of the figures of my reading paper are exhausted.
Thus each roller represents a line of the design, and I can change the
roller at every stroke of the weft, and consequently the distribution
of the shades may be different at every strip or portion of my stuff.
Having thus got the threads of the shades and length required upon
the roller, my next care is before cutting them, so as to detach the
roller from the bobbins, to make the threads fast in a machine, which I
call a slider, which accompanies each roller, and is, like it, moveable.
This slider having an important function requires to be separately and
particularly described, and is represented in the drawing or plan C,
and also by No. 10, on the drawing or plan B.
It consists of two wooden rulers, each about as long as the roller.
These two rulers (R, R', plan C,) are brought close to each other at a
right angle along one of their lateral edges, and fastened by little bolts,
Fig. II, (1), set into the one of them, and passing into as many corre-
sponding sockets; Fig. I, (1), set into the other springs; Fig. II, (2),
attached to the ruler R', and resting on the ruler R, keep the two at a
right angle. Towards each end of the ruler R, there is adjusted a
swing lever, Fig. I, (4), the play of which presses the ruler R', against
the springs; it inclines it towards the ruler R, and so effects a parting
of the edges of the two rulers, and slightly opens the apex of the angle.
When the pressure upon the lever is withdrawn the springs unbend,
causing the ruler R, to resume its former position, and the apex of the
angle to close again. The ruler R, is furnished on its lateral edge
furthest from the apex of the angle with a metal comb, Fig. I,
(2 and 3). This comb is formed of a thin narrow plate or band of
copper, along the middle of which pieces are cut out so as to leave
little strips or ribands parallel to and equidistant from each other.
The plate so cut out is then bent over itself, so that each separate strip
or riband doubles over and forms an arch like the handle of a basket.
I call this comb a rack.

page_text: I have now to introduce the threads of the roller into the slider, and
for this purpose I part the two rulers, of which it is composed, and slip
the ruler R, under the row of threads, making the teeth of the rack
coincide accurately with the teeth of the comb of the winder; then
pressing on the threads, I cause them to pass at once each into its own
compartment, and prevent their escaping again, by passing into the
rings, formed by the extremities of the doubled teeth of the rack, a
brass rod; then I bring together again the two rulers, and the threads
are pinched between their edges.
I am then ready to proceed to the operation of weaving in the loom,
which is shown in vertical section in drawing A, and in horizontal
section in drawing B, and of which the following is the description:-It
consists, first, of a frame formed by six vertical posts (1), bound together
by transverse horizontal bars (2).
Instead of the loops or eyes of the heddles in ordinary looms, there
are two or more rows of vertical plates of metal, which I shall here-
after call heddle plates, which are arranged in parallelism, and are un-
connected with each other at the top, so that each row presents at the
upper surface the appearance of a comb with equal equidistant teeth.
In the upper part of each tooth is a sort of eyelet hole, and one thread
of the warp passes through each of these. Each row has its own
distinct set of warp threads, alternating with the others on the same
principle, as the separate warps in ordinary looms. The feet of the
heddle plates of each row are fixed into a horizontal beam running
across the loom from side to side, and placed below the warp. A treddle
(4) is connected with each row of heddle plates, and sets in motion, so
that the rows may be raised and depressed either at once or in succes-
sion, as may be required. As the heddle plates are raised or lowered
the threads of the warp are raised or lowered with them, so as to
admit of the passage of the weft through the warp. These heddle
plates are an important novelty, inasmuch as it is the play of them,
as above described, which enables the threads forming the pile and the
pattern to be introduced between those of the warp. A cylinder (5),
which I call the thread depresser, is supported horizontally across and
over the warp by two arms (6), the other ends of which are fixed to the

page_text: framework, and turn upon an axle there. It is pressed down by means
of a treadle (7). The use of the thread depresser is, by its pressure, to
bend downwards the threads of the warp behind (i. e. further from the
workman than) the treddle plates, and thus to facilitate the introduction
of the threads from the roller between the heddle plates and the threads
of the warp.
The batten (8) is placed in front of the heddle plates, and has its
axle fixed to the lower part of the framework; it is furnished with a
horizontal comb along its upper surface, the teeth of which are turned
upwards, and correspond with the heddle plates. In the movement of
the batten backwards and forwards the teeth of the comb rise only from
two fifths to four fifths of an inch above the surface of the warp.
All these parts of the machinery having their resting points below the
warp, it follows that the surface of the warp is free and clear of moving
pieces, and that the threads on the rollers intended to form the pile and
the pattern meet with no obstacle to their introduction between the
heddle plates, and consequently between the threads of the warp, as
far down as is necessary to enable the weft to pass.
•
The roller (9), with its slider attached (10), is adjusted by its extre-
mities into two square boxes, like those described for holding it in the
winder, and is thus supported horizontally across the warp. One of
these boxes is fixed in a cogged wheel (11), and a weight attached to
this, and hanging down behind, acts as a counterpoise for drawing the
roller back into its position. A catch (12), worked by a treadle (13),
enables the workman to stop the motion of the cogged wheel and roller
when he pleases.
A breast board (14), fastened to the upper part of the loom, con-
nects the upright posts on the right and left, and adds to the solidity of
the machine.
A pair of nippers is attached to this breast board, and runs all across
on the side next the warp. The upper nipper (15) is moveable; it
opens partially as the lid of a box by means of a treadle (16), which
makes it turn on a hinge; the lower nipper is fixed. The object of the
nippers is to receive and bite tightly the ends of the threads from the
roller as presented to them by the slider.

page_text: Below the nippers is a piece of metal in the form of a triangular
prism (17), which I call a supporting piece. Its upper edge is hori-
zontal, and it is fastened by long screws passing vertically downwards
from the breast board. It supports the fabric at the point where
the actual weaving takes place; and as it may be raised or lowered
at pleasure along its vertical screws by means of nuts, which support
it from below, it serves at the same time to regulate the depth of
the pile.
It is
Between the nippers and the supporting piece is a blade of a cut-
ting instrument (18), shaped somewhat like a saw, and which I call
the saw.
This saw is represented in horizontal section on the plan or
drawing F. It consists of a saw blade, Fig. 1, (1), fastened by screws
to the edge of a metal plate (2), which I call the saw holder.
placed below the breast board, to which it is fastened by three screws
with little running wheels, Fig. 1, (4), Fig. 2, which screws traverse
three button holes (3, 3, 3). The saw is moved by means of a rack
(Fig. 1, (5), into which a toothed pinion works by means of a handle
(Fig. 8). When the handle is turned from left to right, the toothed
pinion working into the rack carries the saw along, and passes it
across and beyond the nippers, under which it lies when in a state of
rest. This movement is effected by describing from left to right a
broken line of the shape of the button holes, as shown in the drawing;
the little running wheels with which the screws are furnished roll
along the sides of the button holes, and so make the movement of the
saw very easy. In passing the nippers the teeth of the saw cut the
threads from the roller which have been brought up by the slider
against the nippers. In order that the threads may be cut through
neatly and evenly they are pressed tightly against the nippers by
means of a cross piece of iron (20), which I call the press thread.
This press thread is supported horizontally by two bent arms or crooked
trees, one on each side of the loom, moving on an axle fixed to the
lower part of the framework; the press thread moves from a point
below the roller up to and against the nippers. When brought close
up to the nippers, the press thread is held there firmly by a hook (21);
which I call the fastening hook; so that the press thread and the

page_text: t
nippers hooked together by this fastening hook form a vice, in which
the line of threads to be cut is firmly secured. The saw comes forward
from below the nippers, and introduces itself into a groove contrived
for it in the front of the thread presser, and cuts through the threads
nipped between these two.
Having thus described my loom, I proceed to explain the process or
operation of weaving with it. After some strokes of the shuttle to
form a selvage, I adjust the roller ticketed No. 1, in its support; then
I draw the slider towards me, and with it the threads intended to form
the pile. Then I bring the ends of all the threads at once to the
nippers, and secure them there. The cogged wheel being drawn back
by its counterpoise stretches the threads between the nippers and the
roller; then I make the slider gape and push it up along the threads,
the ends of which are pinched up to a point above the heddle plates.
Then I raise one row of heddle plates, and with it the threads of the
warp which that row supports. This produces an opening through
which the weft is to pass. Then I bring into play the thread depresser,
which makes the warp incline behind the heddle plates. This enables
the slider also to move down behind the heddle plates, and so to intro-
duce the threads of the roller between the threads of the warp.
I stop the cogged wheel with the catch, to prevent the threads so
introduced from going back. Then I pass the weft thread underneath
the threads of the warp, which are raised up by the row of heddle
plates. Then I disengage the thread depresser, which thereupon ceases
to bind the warp down, and also the slider, which resumes its former
position. Then I strike with the batten the weft thread, which locks
the pile in the canvass. I raise a second row of heddle plates, then a
third, passing each time a weft thread, and striking it with the batten,
so that the threads intended to form the velvet or pile become looped
into the woof from below upwards. It will be understood that the
number of rows of heddle plates is proportioned to the number of warps
employed, according as there is more or less body or substance to be
given to the canvass.
Then
This done, I bring the thread presser against the nippers, and fix it
there by the fastening hook; the thread presser meets on its way. with

page_text: the threads, the ends of which are secured as before mentioned, gives
them
sweep back, and brings them to the nippers. Then I set
in motion the saw, which cuts all the threads at one stroke, and a strip
of the fabric is completed.
I proceed in the same way with the next, taking care to replace the
roller No. 1, by the roller No. 2, that by No. 3, and so on to the end
of the pattern.
The effect of this mechanism is, that the threads intended to form
the pile being independent of the warp up to the moment of weaving,
my loom is always ready for work. I have only to make one pre-
paration or special mounting for each pattern. I can even reproduce
the same pattern on several looms at the same time by making the
rollers Nos. 1, 2, 3, &c. pass in succession from loom to loom; also,
one workman can attend to several looms at once without losing time.
I can even, in case of need, break off a pattern that has been com-
menced, and instantly substitute another for it. Lastly, I can produce
several small pieces of different patterns, as, for example, bottoms for
seats, in one length of the same warp. My looms do not require very
roomy workshops. Each of them only takes up the space of a piano,
of which it is about the size. It does not require to be fastened into
the ground or to the floor. It may be removed without taking to
pieces, with its warp attached, that is to say, in perfect readiness for
work. If required to be of more than ordinary strength, it may be
made of iron, brass, steel, or copper.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner
in which it is to be executed, I hereby declare that I claim as new
the process so described as a whole; that I also separately claim the
method of composing and reading off the design; also the warping
machine or winder, which, though not essential to the combination,
inasmuch as the winding may be effected by hand or by some other
machine, though in a less convenient manner, and in a longer time,
is, as a machine, a new Invention; also the loom as a whole; also the
several parts of the machinery above described, which I have called
respectively the sliders, the nippers, the supporting piece, the saw, and
the thread presser. I do not claim the moveable rollers as in them-

page_text: selves novel, but I claim the application and use of them in combina-
tion as above described. Neither do I claim the thread depresser as
in itself new, but I claim the modification and adaptation of it as above
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Victor Frederic de Roulet,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of Sep-
tember, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-three.
CHARLES VICTOR FREDERIC DE ROULET. (L.S.)
Signed, sealed, and delivered in the presence of
A. DE MOMIGNY,
Avocat,
26, Boulevard Bonne
Nouvelle, Paris.