IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE PURPOSE OF MAKING LACE AND OTHER FABRICS, TRAVERSED, LOOPED, OR WOVEN
Year: 1841

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHN
CHATER, of the Town of Nottingham, Machine Maker, and RICHARD GRAY,.
of the same Place, Lace Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Twenty-sixth day of June, in the fifth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said John
Chater and Richard Gray, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and
authority, that we, the said John Chater and Richard Gray, our exors,"
adñiors, and assigns, or such others as we, the said John Chater and
Richard Gray, our exors, adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of years
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE PURPOSE OF MAKING LACE AND OTHER
FABRICS, TRAVERSED, LOOPED, OR WOVEN;" in which said Letters Patent is con-
tained a proviso, that we, the said John Chater and Richard Gray, shall cause
a particular description of the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High
Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same,
reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
John Chater and Richard Gray, do hereby declare that the nature of our
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are
fully described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof,
reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures
and letters marked thereon, that is to say:-
Our Invention relates, first, to a mode of producing a fabric in bobbin net
or twist lace machines, by dividing a single tier of carriages at a single motion,
and causing them to traverse and produce a diagonal interweaving of the
bobbin threads.
Secondly, the Invention relates to a mode of applying revolving guides to
carry warp threads of bobbin net lace machinery.
Thirdly, our Invention relates to a mode of applying jacquard cards or
perforated pattern surfaces to govern the rackings of guide bars of bobbin net
or twist lace machinery.
And fourthly, our Invention relates to a mode of constructing stud plates
for the pattern surfaces of lace machinery, whereby studs of various lengths
may be securely fixed, by the use of two surfaces, through one of which the
studs pass, and whereby the same studs by differently combining them in the
same or other similar plates may be used in producing many different
patterns.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS: A
The nature of each of the various views of the machinery and. parts thereof
being written on the Drawings, it will not be necessary to repeat them here,
and as the various parts of lace machinery, are well known it will not be
necessary to enter into a particular description of the nature of each part; nor
of the movements produced thereto. We therefore shall for the most part
confine the description here given to the nature of our improvements, simply
entering into a description of those parts directly connected therewith in order.
that the nature and mode of working of our improvements may be more
readily understood. The machinery shown in the Drawing. is what is called
single-tier machinery, that is, the bobbin threads are carried by one row cr
tier of carriages, and as the fabric which the machinery is intended to make.
when working according to the first parts of our Invention is intended, to,
consist partly of a fabric produced by means of the traversing of..the carriages.
by causing of the carriages to be divided at each movement or. swing of the
carriages in the combs, and the carriages are caused to be divided by pushers,*
and it will be seen that the landing bars, catch bars, and carriages are similar,
to those used in what are called "L'ever's machines." And the machinery is
1

page_text: suitably arranged for working by the rotatory motion of crank handles, as is well
understood, and the novelties to be described is the mode of applying rotatory
guides for carrying the warp.threads of lace fabrics, or fabrics looped or
woven by such machinery: The names of the various principal parts being,
5 written on them in the Drawings, their positions and mode of working together
will readily be traced.. It should, however, be stated, that the catch bars are
set the width of one neb of a carriage wider apart than usual, each catch bar
only taking every other carriage of the tier of carriages when they are divided
or pushed into a position for the catch bars to take them, and the catch bars
and comb bars shog when the carriages are divided, and the landing bars are
opened out to their widest positions; hence it will be understood that the
carriages which are taken by the front catch bar at one movement will be
taken by the back catch bar in the next movement, and the carriages taken
by the back catch-bar-at one movement will be taken by the front catch bar
in the next movement, and by such. means, even supposing there be no longi-
tudinal or warp threads used, there would be a fabric produced by the diagonal
interweaving of the bobbin threads alone, as it will be seen that the bobbin
threads as they traverse from selvage to selvage will pass successively under
and over the bobbin threads, proceeding diagonally in the opposite direction,
and such weaving of the bobbin threads, whether using warp threads therewith
or not, may become the ornamenting portions of other fabrics made by coni-
bining warp threads therewith by means of rotatory guides. a, a, are the
rotatory guides, which are each shewn to carry two guide or warp threads,,
and the object of these revolving guides is to produce twisted pillars in the
fabric made by the traversing of the.bobbin threads as above explained. The
revolving guides are, however, also capable of producing other effects in the
fabric made in the machine, which we will hereafter explain; but in order to
keep the description as simple as possible, in the first instance, we would state
that the machinery as shewn in the Drawings is intended to make a fabric by "
introducing at intervals a twisted pillar of the warp threads carried by each of
the revolving guides into the trasversed fabric produced by the simple inter-
weaving of the traverse bobbin threads, and it will be found that the making
of this fabric will shew the use and application of revolving-guides for carrying
warp threads, according to the second part of our Invention, in the most simple
orm. We shall then point out shortly other modifications of the machinery, in
rder to cause the revolving guides so to work as to produce other effects in
he fabrics made. The revolving guides a, a, each consists of a short tube
aving a small cog wheel affixed thereon, and the bearings or openings b, b,
n which the tubes a, a, revolve, are cast in leads c, which are affixed to

page_text: a guide bar d, which we call the bar of .revolving guides, in order to dis-
tinguish it from the guide bars which may be used for introducing other
warp threads or gymp as a means of varying the character of the fabric
made in a machine having rotatory guides working according to our Invention.
The bar of revolving guides in this machine does not shog in making the
fabric herein described, and the revolving guides are applied at intervals of
every six carriages; and in order to obtain rotatory motion, first in one direc-
tion, then in another, to the revolving guides a, a, we apply a toothed rack e,
which is composed of a series of short rods cast in leads, as well understood in
combining parts of lace machinery, and the rack is so formed with shoulders to
each bar e, as to come under the lower surface of the small cog wheels in the
rotatory guides a, and thus support the rotatory guides a in their proper posi-
tions, as is shewn. The leads of racks e are affixed to a bar f, such bar being
shogged, first in one direction, theu in the other, by which means the rotatory"
guides will cause the warp threads carried by them to twist, and such twist will
warp threads
be held secure by the passing of two carriage threads between the
of each of the revolving guides a, a, and the machine is so arranged as to cause
the revolving guides to make two revolutions, in the same direction between
the top and bottom crossings of the bobbin threads of one mesh, and the
requisite shogging movement is obtained to the rack bar f from a cam g,
affixed on the axis which carries the cams which work the point bars. The
cam g
is so formed as to cause the revolving guides to rotate when the carriages
are clear of the threads, and two carriages will pass between the two warp
threads of each revolving guide when they are open for that purpose, and at
other times the threads of each revolving guide will range one before the other,
at which time the carriages in passing will not go
threads of
a revolving guide. h is a lever moving on an axis at i. This lever at its lower
end has two friction pulleys or rollers, which act on the two surfaces of the cam
upper
between the
warp
9, the end of the lever having a fork with two set screws passing through
the forked end, such set screws coming on either side of a projection on the
rack bar, and thus will the rack bar be shogged according to the rises and
falls cut or formed on the cams, and which may be varied, depending on the
effect desired to be produced. The cam shewn for producing the fabric above
described is cut to produce two revolutions between the top and botton
crosses of the mesh, which the twisted warp threads of any revolving guide
divides by a twisted pillar.
It will be proper to remark that as the catch bars work at such a distanc
apart as to take only the nebs of the carriages when the carriages are pushe
sufficiently far by the pushers in dividing the tier of carriages at each motio

page_text: of the machine, when it is desired to get the whole of the carriages into the
back combs in order to mend any broken threads, the machinery is so arranged
to allow of the front pusher driving the one half of the carriages from the front
combs into the back combs, when the other half is already in the back combs,
the back pusher and the shogging wheels being put out of motion till the
mending of the threads has been accomplished. j, j, are the two catch bars,
which work on necks or axes carried by projections j, affixed respectively to the
back and front landing bars, as is shewn; consequently the necessary movement
will be given to the catch bars for moving the carriages in the combs, by the
separating of the landing bars, and the lifting of the catch bars will be per-
formed in the following manner:-k is a lever moving on an axis carried by a
projection k', affixed to the front landing bar, one end of the lever k resting
under the front catch bar, and the lower end of the lever k has a friction roller
or truck, which when in action moves along the curved track 1, such curved
track being carried by the lever I', which moves on an axis ; consequently
when the outer or front end of the lever is raised by a cam m on the crank
handle axis, the front catch bar will be raised out of the nebs of the carriages,
and it will be seen that the back catch bar is worked in a similar manner; but
the lever which is worked by the cam m is depressed at its front end, which
will raise the curved track at the back of the machine at the same time as
the curved track at the front of the machine is
bars will work similarly, and at the same time. n, n, are the two pusher bars
which move on axes carried by the landing bars, whereby, when the landing
bars approach each other, the pusher bars will be brought into action in the
following manner :-n¹, n', are springs affixed to the landing bars, their upper
ends being attached by links to the back and front pusher bars respectively, by
which means the pushers are borne away from the carriages, but the springs
are prevented pulling the pushers too far away by stops. On the pusher
bars n, n, are affixed arms n², n², the arm at the front of the machine having
a handle n³, by which the workman may move the front pusher bar in order to
drive the carriages into the back combs when desired, and as hereafter
explained. is a standard or upright, carrying a pulley or friction roller o¹,
against which the arm n² comes as the landing bars approach each other; and
it will be evident that as the roller o¹ prevents the arm n² of the front pusher
bar going in, the front pusher bar will move on its axis, and thus cause the
pushers thereon to force every alternate carriage toward the back combs, and a
similar action will simultaneously take place in respect to the back pusher
bar, by the arm n² thereon coming against a pulley or roller P, which
can rotate on the rod q, and when the machine is at work, the roller p, like
raised; hence the two catch

page_text: 2
2
the roller o, is stationary as to position, that is, it is at: all times in a position
to be acted against by the arm n² of the back pusher bar; but when the
machine is to be put out of motion, the roller p slides--with its bar a short
distance, whereby the roller p will no longer be under the arm n² of the back
pusher bar; and the pusher bar will be kept back by its spring, -and the
approach of the landing bars towards each other will not put the back pusher
bar into action. The sliding of the bar q will also put the drivers of the
shogging wheels of the pusher bars and comb bars out of motion in the follow-
ing manner-qis a rod at the front of the machine, which is attached at its
left hand; and by a pin joint, to the lever q, which moves-on an axis ³, at the
back of the machine, and the rod q is bent at its left-hand-end; in order to be
attached by a pin joint as near the front end of the lever q³ as convenient, and
the right-hand ends of the rods and gl-are-respectively supported by passing
through uprights r, the uprighter in front acting as a stop-for-a-catch, which is
attached to the rod q', by which catch the rods g and q will-be retained in the
two positions necessary when the machine is at work, and, secondly, when the
machinery is stopped. These parts are shewn in-the-positions assumed by them
when the machine is at work.. s is a catch, having two notches 's', s², and
according as the one or other of these. notches-are-held by the upright in front
of the machine, so will be the parts in position to work or not. The catch s
moves on an axis carried by a projection affixed on the rod ql, and the work-
man will be able to put the pulley or roller p out of its working position, and
stop the driving of the shogging. wheels by pressing on the-left-hand end of the
catch 8, and sliding the bar q towards the left-hand end of the machine, by
which he will bring the notch s² to embrace the upper part of the front
standard r, and so long as these parts are retained in this position the driving
of the shogging wheels will be stopped,-and-the pulley or roller p of the back
.pusher bar will be removed out of the way of the arm on the back pusher bar.
It will be understood that the shogging wheels of the back and front pusher
bars are carried by the back and-front-landing-bars, as is well understood, and
motion is communicated thereto by drivers. The Drawing, however, docs
not shew the shogging wheels and driver for the back pusher .bar,i.those
parts being similar to the parts shewn for the front pusher bar, and the
driver of the back pusher bar is put out of action by a similar apparatus
worked by the rod q as is employed to put the driver of the shogging wheels of
the front pusher bar out of action by the rod g. On the rod qis, affixed a
projecting finger q', which entering in a pronged end of the lever.q, moving.on
the axis of the shogging wheels when-the-lower end of the lever q is moved
towards the left-hand end of the machine, the upper end of the lever coming

page_text: against the driver t, will hold it out of action in respect to the ratchet wheel of
the shogging wheels. is a bar which is attached by a screw to the lever q³,
and this bar q by its other end will hold the.clawker v which drives the ratchet
wheel of the comb bar wheels out of action so long as the rods q, q', are held
towards the left-hand end of the machine. By this arrangement. it will be
readily understood that a workman wishing to get all the carriages into the
back combs will do so by lifting the front catch..bar out of the nebs of the
carriages, when the landing bars have made about half their movement' towards
the centre of the machine; he would then by the handle on the arm of the front
pusher bar force the carriages in the front combs towards the back combs, so
that when the front catch bar is again lowered, the blade would be in front of
the nebs of the carriages in place of being in them; the workman would: then
slide the friction pulley or roller of the lifting lever of the front catch bar 'so as
to remove-it off the curved track, that the front catch bar may not be lifted at
the next motion, and that pulley would be forced into .its, place again by a
spiral spring on its axis; when the curved track is lowered in again working,
he would then slide-the bars q, q'; by which he would remove the friction roller
of the back pusher, bar, and put the driving apparatus out of action, as 'above
explained, and going through the revolution of the crank handles would cause.
the back catch bar to take all the carriages into the back combs, when the
broken threads might be mended, which having been done, the rod q¹ may be
moved towards the right-hand end' of the machine, which will place the whole
of the parts.in their proper positions for working.
...We would remark in respect to this first part of our Invention, that although
we have shewn the revolving guides only to carry 'two.threads each; they may,
if desired, carry more threads by häving other. holes through. the sides of the
tube of the guides, and thus allow of different effects being produced by the
order in which the carriages pass amongst the warp threads, and a thread or
threads of any suitable material may pass up the centre of each tube or
revolving guide; and not partake of the revolution of the guide, by which
arrangement such. thread would be laid into the fabric, and the other threads
carried by, the same guides would, in their twisting, cover the threads passing
through the tubes of the guides; and although we have only shewn a revolving
guide at intervals apart, and carried by a single bar, there may be more
revolving guides by having a second or more. bars of them, so as to produce
a compliment of warp threads for the carriage threads. used. The machine, as
arranged in the. Drawing, as above described, is capable of. producing a. fabric
partly of a traversed interwoven character,. by. the diagonal interweaving of the
bobbin threads with longitudinal pillars of twisted warp threads from. revolving

page_text: guides; but supposing that there be other warp threads introduced between
the revolving guides by the aid of any of the guide bars shewn in the Drawing,
different effects might be produced in the fabric, according to the varying of
the movements of the different warp threads. Thus, supposing the warp
threads from the ordinary guide bars to remain at all times stationary, the
effect produced would be that the traversed interwoven fabric of the bobbin
threads would be inlaid with longitudinal threads without twist, producing a
sort of "wire ground" fabric; but supposing some of the ordinary guide bars
where caused to rack suitably to and fro, the bobbin threads would put twist
thereon in the act of travelling from selvage to selvage, as is well understood,
and by varying the rackings of the different guide bars different effects will be
produced; and it will be evident that by other of the ordinary guide bars gymp
or other ornamenting threads may be introduced into the fabric produced,
and such common guide bars may be worked by means of perforated pattern
surfaces, or by any other suitable means, as is well understood, these parts of
our Invention not depending on the manner of working ordinary guide bars,
when used either with the means of producing a traversed interwoven fabric
by bobbin threads, or when used with revolving guides carrying warp threads,
as above explained. And we would remark, that the use of revolving guides
carrying warp threads may in some respects, particularly when using many
threads, resemble traverse warp apparatus; yet the difference will be evident,
when it is remembered that the warp threads of a traverse warp machine travel
diagonally from selvage to selvage. Now, in working according to our im-
provements, several revolving guides are used to produce one width of fabric,
and none of the warp threads travel from selvage to selvage. And we would
also remark, that we are aware that it has before been proposed to use
peculiarly formed revolving guides in bobbin net machinery for carrying
whipping or lacing threads, for lacing breadths of lace together when they are
being produced in the machine, such lacing threads being withdrawn from the
fabrics when taken out of the machine; and such Invention was secured by
Letters Patent, and we mention these matters in order to state that we do not
claim the use of revolving guides generally in bobbin net machinery, but only
the mode of applying suitably constructed revolving guides for the purpose of
carrying warp threads in the manner described.
We will now describe the third part of our Invention, which relates to a
mode of applying jacquard cards, or perforated surfaces, as the pattern surfaces
for obtaining the desired movements to guide bars of bobbin net or twist lace
machinery. This part of our Invention is shown combined in the same machine
as that shewn in the Drawings A, baving the first and second parts of our

page_text: Invention; but we would remark that this third part of our Invention is
equally applicable to the working of the guide bars of other arrangements of
bobbin net lace machinery. At the right-hand end of the machine is affixed
the framing A, A, the nature of which is clearly shown in the Drawings.
There are twelve guide bars in the machine; but this number may be varied
according to the pattern of lace it is desired should be produced by the machine,
and the guide bars, by their springs, are at all times drawn towards the left-
hand end of the machine; each of the guide bars is connected by means of a
link B to a lever C, such levers C being therefore at all times drawn towards
the machine in such manner that when not interfered with by the apparatus
hereafter explained, all the guide bars would rest against their dead stops,
that is to say, all the guide bars assume a position, as far as they could go,
towards the left-hand end of the machine. It will be seen that there are
fourteen levers C, but only twelve of them are connected with guide bars, the
other two, the uppermost and lowermost ones, being for the purpose of carrying
the whole of the levers C back out of the way of the pattern surfaces hereafter
explained, during the time that the positions of such pattern surfaces are being
changed, by the aid of the jacquard cards or perforated pattern surfaces. Dis
a bar which is affixed at its upper end to the uppermost lever C, and at its lower
end to the lowermost lever C; and C¹, C', are a series of set screws which pass
through the other twelve levers C, and come against the bar D; and it is by
means of the screws C' that the levers C are adjusted correctly for work, and
it will be evident that if the bar D be pressed towards the right-hand end of
the machine all the levers C will be moved away from the pattern surfaces
and allow of their positions being changed by the perforated pattern surfaces,
as hereafter explained. The levers C move on an axis at their back ends, as
is shewn. E is a cam on the upright axis F, which, at proper intervals,
causes the levers C to be pressed away from the pattern surfaces, and again
allows them to come against the pattern surfaces, such cam acting against the
friction roller D', applied to the surface of the bar D, as is shewn. The cam
E is affixed on the upright axis F, which receives motion from the cam shaft
by bevelled toothed wheels, as is shown. C2 are adjusting screws, which
pass through the levers C, and come against the pattern surfaces, and it will.
be seen that the screws C¹, C2, are fastened in the following manner :-They
pass through female screws formed in the levers C; they have cach a screw nut,
which has a female screw formed through it; in adjusting the screws C¹, C³,
the nut is first partly unscrewed by a forked screw-driver; the screw C¹ or C³,
as the case may be, is then adjusted by screwing or unscrewing the same, by
nicans of a strong wire passed through the holes in the stem of the screws C'

page_text: or C³, and when the required degree of adjustment is obtained the screw nut
is screwed up tightly against the lever C, all which is clearly shown in the
Drawing. I, I, are the pattern surfaces, which are a series of steps or rises,
formed or affixed on the sliding bars J, J, such sliding bars sliding in the
framing A, they being guided in their movement by slits or recesses formed in
the bars of the frame A, as is shown in the Drawing, and they are kept from
falling out by the bars A¹ fastened by screws, as shown. The shape of the
bars J, J, being clearly shown, no further description thereof will be required,
and they are acted upon in the following manner: -If the perforated pattern
surface be so perforated as to miss all the short rods hereafter explained, which
act on the sliding bars J, then the guide bars would be stopped against their
dead stops; on the other hand, according as the perforated pattern surface lifts
one or other of the short rods, which acts on either of the sliding bars J, so
will the guide bars be brought a distance equal to the effect produced by the
first, second, third, fourth, or fifth step or rise of the pattern surface I, and
such steps or rises may be each equal to place the guide bar a half gait or a
quarter gait or a whole gait towards the left hand, according to the wish of the
manufacturer; thus, supposing the step (1) of each pattern surface I were
equal to place the guide bar one space or gait to the right hand from its
dead stop, and that the steps (2), (3), (4,) and (5) cach were capable of placing
the guide bar worked thereby one space or gait further towards the right
hand, it would be evident that each guide bar would be capable of working in
six portions, commencing at the dead stop and ending with the fifth step,
and, according as the pattern surface is perforated, so will be the position
assumed by the guide bar worked by either of the sliding bars J; and these
guide bars are respectively acted on by short rods K, each bar J being acted
on by five such rods, though this number may be varied, depending on the
number of positions it is desired place the guide bars in, in order to produce
particular patterns.
The short rods K are of different lengths, the object of which is that as the
pattern surface is at all times lifted to the same height, and the sliding bars
requiring to be lifted different heights according as the different steps or rises are
desired to be brought into a position to act on the guide bars, such difference
in length of the short rods K, according as they are selected, will raise the bar
J to the position desired; thus, supposing it was required to bring the step (1)
into a position for the set screw C² of either of the levers C to come against,
when allowed to do so by the cam as above mentioned, then the pattern card
or perforated pattern surface would be perforated opposite all the rods K², K³,
K, K, and the rising of the jacquard cylinder would cause the pattern surface

page_text: thereon to lift the sliding bar J by the rod K', and cause it to place the lowest
step (1) opposite the end of the screw C of a lever C, and by such means the
guide bar connected with that lever C would be placed and held one space; or
half a space, or other distance from its dead stop, according to whether each
step was made equal to produce a-difference of one space or gait or less
towards the right hand; and.supposing it desired to bring the highest step (5)
of the pattern surface of any bar J into action, then opposite the ends of the
short rods K of that bar J the pattern surface would not be perforated to
allow of any of the rods K', K, and K, to pass through, but the surface would
be wholly unperforated, and consequently lift the bar Ja distance, so as to
bring the step (5) to stop the lever C and consequently the guide bar; and in
such manner will the pattern surfaces be perforated or unperforated according
as it is desired to miss the rods K, K³, and K'; and in the event of it being
desired that a guide bar should be stopped by its dead stop, then the pattern
surface could be perforated opposite all the rods K, and it will be evident that
by such an arrangement of apparatus worked by perforated pattern surfaces,
a great variety of patterns of fabric may be made, whether used in conjunction
with the first parts of our Invention or separate therefrom. The pattern surfaces
may be made of card-board or of any other suitable material; and it should
be observed that in forming the pattern surfaces I on the bars J they will
require to be of greater height to produce the same effect to their respective
guide.bars, according as the bars J are further from the axis of the levers C.
The pattern surfaces are to be linked together into a continuous chain, as
heretofore. L is what is called the-jacquard barrel, affixed on the axis 'M,
each surface of the barrel having studs N, which, passing through holes formed
in the ends of the cards.or-perforated pattern-surfaces, retain them correct.and
secure. On the axis is the wheel O with six-studs, which being pressed on' by
the spring will retain the barrel correct when changed by the driver P, which,
in the descent of the axis of the barrel, brings the ratchet wheel affixed on the
axis to be acted on by the driver, and thus is the axis, and consequently the
barrel, turned one sixth round each time of its descending, by which a fresh
pattern surface is brought into a position to act on the next going-up of the
jacquard barrel. Qis a bar which carries the jacquard barrel, as is shown;
this bar is raised and lowered by means of cams R and. S, acting on the armis
T and V, such arms being affixed to the axis W, and to that axis W is affixed
the arm X, which is attached by, a slotted joint to the bar Q, and the bar Q
being guided in staples, the revolution of the cams R, S, will cause the jacquard
barrel to rise and fall; all which will readily be understood an an examination
of the Drawing, aided by the description here given.

page_text: We will now describe the fourth part of our Invention, which relates to a
mode of constructing stud plates to be applied as pattern surfaces in working
the parts of bobbin net or twist lace machinery; and the peculiarity of the
pattern surfaces so produced is, that each of the studs of which the pattern
surface is composed has a head by which the stud can be affixed by the studs
passing through a perforated plate, and be secured therein by a second plate
affixed to the perforated plate, and the studs are formed of different lengths
according as they as intended to produce a rise or fall to a greater or less
extent to the instrument acted on, and owing to the studs being thus of
different lengths, and capable of being affixed to any part of the perforated
plate, it will be evident that various patterns of fabric may be produced by
means of the same studs and plates; for, supposing that a particular pattern
has been arranged on a series of plates, and by the aid of studs of determined
lengths, varying according to the extent of rises and falls which it is required
to obtain to the instruments acted on, and such pattern is no longer wanted,
all that will be necessary to make a fresh pattern by the use of the same parts
or studs and plates will be, that the studs should be removed from the per-
forated plate, first moving the plate which fixes the studs in the perforated
plates, and then to recompose the pattern in the same plates by varying the
placing of the different studs.
The Drawings marked B shew so much of a right-hand end view of a lace
machine, with this part of our improvements applied thereto, as will enable us
to describe the mode of action of the various parts. A, A, are guide bars,
there being six at the back and six in the front, but the number of guide bars
used may be varied, this part of our Invention not depending on the number
of guide bars, but relates to the mode of constructing pattern surfaces by
means of studs fixed by means of two plates. B, B, are a series of connecting
rods or links, which connect the right-hand ends of the guide bars with the
crank levers C, C, such crank levers being governed in their working by the
pattern surfaces hereafter described. E, E, are a series of springs, which tend
to bear the various guide bars towards the left-hand end of the machine; these
springs are affixed to the plates F, F, which are affixed to the spindle bar or
axis G, which moves in bearings G¹. At the left-hand end of the machine G2 is
an arm affixed to the spindle bar or axis G, carrying two friction rollers, which
work on the two sides of the cam H, the object of this arrangement being to
relieve the guide bars of the strain of the springs at the moment when the
pattern surface selects the parts which work the guide bars. By this means the
power required by the pattern surfaces is reduced, the springs at other times
pressing on the guide bars, with a tendency to draw them to the left-hand end

page_text: of the machine, the springs being connected to the guide bars by means of
links or connecting rods G³. We have not thought it necessary to shew a
complete lace machine in order to explain this part of the Invention, which,
only relating to the pattern surface, may be used with various descriptions of
lace machines, provided the arrangements of the guide bars or parts are pro-
perly brought into connection with the pattern surfaces, which we will now
describe. I, I, are the studs, of which the pattern surfaces are composed,
such studs being made of various regulated lengths for racking the guide bars
to varying distances, by which means these studs may be used over and over
again to compose different patterns, because they individually will at all times
produce the same effects in respect to the guide bars, wherever they are placed
in the pattern surface: thus, supposing certain of the studs be cut of the exact
length to cause the guide bars (which, for the time being, may be governed by.
such studs) to be held one space or gait to the right-hand of the dead stops,
such length of studs would be used in all such parts of the pattern surface as
require the particular guide bars to be retained at any moment of working one
space to the right of their dead stops; and supposing other studs to be of an
exact length for causing the guide bars to stand two spaces to the right hand
of their dead stops, such studs would be used in all cases in the pattern sur-
faces as require to have any of the guides held two spaces from their dead
stops, and such is the case in respect to other lengths of studs, they being once
accurately made of proper lengths for producing a particular effect to the
guide bars; they may be used in any parts of the pattern surfaces, and they
will at all times produce the same effect to the guide bars influenced by them,
and thus may various and very different patterns be produced by differently
placing or composing the studs in the plate which holds them. J, J', are two
plates, one of them perforated with a series of holes, through which the studs I
are passed when the plate J is held with its face downwards, and as each stud
has a head, it cannot fall through, and in this manner are the pattern surfaces
composed, by placing such lengths of studs through different parts of the plate
as will produce the effect on the guide bars required for the parts of the pattern
to be produced in the working of the machine, and having composed the studs
in a plate J the plate J' is to be fixed securely to the plate J; by this means
the studs will be securely fixed in the plates J, J₁, and a number of these
plates are to be secured together according to the extent of pattern required
to be produced by the working of the machine, such securing of the plates
being performed by hinge joints, as is shewn, and the fixing of the plates J, J',
is accomplished by means of four screws J², all which will readily be understood
on examining the Drawings now under description. K, K, are holes, perforated

page_text: through the two plates J, J¹, in order, by stud wheels L, to move the chain of
pattern surfaces on the table or platform N, on the upper surface of which
the pattern surfaces rest, during the time of their being in action, to govern
the positions of the guide bars. This table or platform has a rising and falling
motion communicated to it, in order to bring the studs in contact with the
parts in connection with the guide bars, and in falling or descending the pattern
surfaces are moved on a short distance, that is, a distance: equal to the space
between two rows of studs across the pattern: surfaces, by which means fresh
rows of pattern surfaces will be brought into action for the next going-up of
the table or platform N; and the rising and falling motion of the table or
platform N is produced by the cam N', which acts on the two friction rollers N
carried by the arm N³, affixed to the spindle bar or axis N'; by this means the
arms N5 (which are also affixed to the spindle bar Nánd are connected by
slotted pin joints to the bars N°) will raise and lower the table or platform N,
which is affixed on the bars N6, which are guided in their movement up and.
down in brackets, as shewn. O is an axis moving in bearings O¹, affixed:
under the table or platform N; on this axis O are affixed two stud wheels. I,
which, working through slits formed in the table N, take into the holes K; K,
formed in the plates J, J. On the axis O are affixed two ratchet wheels,
having their teeth in opposite directions; so that by two different clawkers P, P,..
motion may be given to the axis for a time in one direction, and then for a.
time in the opposite direction, as hereafter described. 03 is a wheel with:
angular teeth, the object of which is to ensure the pattern surfaces being:
correctly placed by the stud wheel, O' being a lever with an angular tooth at
upper end; and O³ is a spring, which tends at all times to press the lower end-
of the lever O' outwards; hence should the pattern surface not be set correctly,
the tooth on the lever O! being pressed against the angular surface of a tooth
of the wheel 03 will force the wheel 03 to move round till the tooth on the lever
arrives at the bottom of the space between two teeth, and thus correctly place.
the pattern surface, the wheel Os moving a space equal to two teeth each s
movement of the axis 0, excepting at the time the pattern surface is caused to
return, at which time the first movement of the axis O causes the wheel O³ to
move a distance equal only to one tooth. Motion is communicated to the axis O
in the following manner:-P, P, are two clawkers, which are suspended to
the end framing, which carries the parts which are connected to the guide bars, 3
and the clawker P is now in a position to act on its ratchet wheel each time
the table or platform N descends; the clawker P¹ being held out of action until
the pattern surface is required to move in an opposite direction to that pro-
duced by the clawker P, when the clawker P will be put out of action, and the
its

page_text: -
clawker P will be allowed to come into action in the following manner :-
Q, Q, are a row of holes formed in the plates J, for receiving a stud when it
is desired to reverse the direction of the pattern surface, but so long as there is
no stud introduced into any hole of the holes Q, the pattern surface will con
tinue to move in the same direction, but when a stud is applied to any plate J.
in one of the holes Q, that stud when it arrives against the end of the cranked-
arm R affixed on an axis R', the arm R2 will be raised, and by its driver R³
will give motion to the ratchet wheel R, on the axis of which are affixed two
wheels, having rises and falls therein in such manner that when the lower end.
or beak of the lever Rs of the clawker P is in a fall, the lever R³ of the
clawker P¹ will be on a rise, and vice versa, and when a change in the direc-
tion of the pattern surfaces has thus been obtained the pattern surfaces will.
continue to move in that direction until another stud in a hole Q comes again
to act on the parts as above described, and thus may the pattern surfaces be
worked to and fro according to the arrangement of the pattern of studs com-
posed thereon. And it will be seen that there are twelve rows of holes for
studs formed in the plates J, in addition to the holes K and Q, such twelve
rows of holes being to receive studs of varying lengths, according to the
requirement of the parts of the pattern to be thereby produced; but owing to
the arrangement of the parts which communicate the contour of the pattern
surface to the parts which work the guide bars being arranged to work in two
rows, the twelve studs of any row will not be called into action at any one time,
but only six studs of one row and six studs of the next row will be called into.
action in working the twelve instruments which actuate the twelve guide bars.
Thus, supposing the first and second or any other two rows of studs in either of
the plates J to be in a position for working the guide bars, when the table.
N is raised, only every alternate stud of each row of studs would meet with an.
instrument, but the alternate studs of the two rows of studs, in action would
not range in the same rows transversely in the plate J, but in the intermediate.
rows; (that is to say,) if the first, third, fifth, seventh, ninth, and eleventh studs
of one row of studs were called into action to move six of the sliding bars S,.
then the second, fourth, sixth, eighth, tenth, and twelfth studs of the next row.
of studs would be called into action to actuate the other six sliding bars S, and
the intermediate studs in each row of studs not called into action when the
pattern surface is passing in one direction will be called into action when the.
pattern surface is moving in the opposite direction, and those studs which have-
before acted will not again act till the pattern surfaces again move in the same
direction. The pattern surfaces are guided in their movement over the table
or platform N by means of guide plates N7, as is shown. S, S, are twelve

page_text: sliding bars, which have projections at their lower ends, each of a size to come
against one stud I, such lower ends ranging in two rows as above explained,
and the bars S have each adjusting screws S' through projections S², such pro-
jections being on opposite sides of the succeeding bars S, in order to obtain
room for getting at the adjusting screws, and at the upper parts the bars S
have also projections with set screws, the heads of which come under their
respective cranked levers, as is clearly shown; it will thus be evident that
according as the studs I coming under any of the sliding bars S are longer or
shorter, so will be the movement to the guide bars thereby acted on.
We would remark, that we have not shown there to be any counterbalance
to the table or platform N, and the parts carried thereby, but the same will
readily be applied, as it is desirable that the weight moved by the working of
the machine should be as little as possible, and these working parts may be
counterbalanced to such an extent as only to have sufficient balance of weights
for carrying the tables and parts down after it has been raised up to its highest
position.
We would remark in respect to this part of our Invention, that we are.
aware that pattern surfaces have been before produced by studs screwed into
plates and other surfaces, and studs have also been fixed by other means in
suitable surfaces, and each protruding therefrom to such an extent as would
give the desired movement to the instrument acted on thereby, and there have
also been loose studs used to enter suitable holes in surfaces; and we mention
these matters in order to state that we do not claim the making of pattern
surfaces for lace machinery by using studs generally, but only when they are
cut to varied and suitable lengths, and each having a head, whereby it can be
securely affixed by passing through one plate and retained by another plate or
surface, as herein explained.
Having thus described the nature of our said Invention, and the best means
we are acquainted with for performing the same, we would have it understood
that we do not claim any of the parts separately, nor do we confine ourselves
to the precise details so long as the peculiar character of either part of our
Invention be retained.
But what we claim is, first, the mode of producing a fabric in bobbin net
or twist lace machines, by dividing a single tier of carriages at a single motion,
and causing them to traverse and produce a diagonal interweaving of the
bobbin threads.
Secondly, we claim the mode of applying revolving guides to carry warp
threads of bobbin net lace machinery.
Thirdly, we claim the mode of applying jacquard cards or perforated pattern

page_text: surfaces to govern the rackings of guide bars of bobbin net or twist lace
machinery.
And, fourthly, we claim the mode of constructing stud plates or pattern sur-
faces for lace machinery, whereby studs of various lengths may be securely
fixed, as above described."
surfaces to govern the rackings of guide bars of bobbin net or twist lace
machinery.
And, fourthly, we claim the mode of constructing stud plates or pattern sur-
faces for lace machinery, whereby studs of various lengths may be securely
fixed, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Chater, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-fourth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.