IMPROVE- MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR STITCHING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of 15, Regent Street, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR STITCHING OR UNITING
AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS."
Sealed the 16th May 1854, and dated the 6th December 1853.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 6th December 1859.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of 15, Regent Street, in the County of Mid-
dlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR STITCHING OR
UNITING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS" to be as follows:-
The first part of my improvements consists of placing a curved arm
or bracket upon a point or centre on the bed of the machine, so as to
radiate or remove from one point of the bed of the machine to
another, with the instruments therein contained, which may be effected
by placing the arm, as already referred to, on a centre in the bed plate
of the machine, or placed upon a suitable stand which will form its

page_text: point or centre, and which may also be made to support the framing
or bed of the machine for carrying the material, and to which the
greatest portion of the mechanism is fixed or secured; instead, how-
ever, of the arm or bracket being made to move or turn to any
required part or point of operation of the table or bed plate, it may
be fixed or stationary, and the framing or table made to move the
required distance. The object of this part of my improvement or
arrangement is to perform by the greatest portion of the mechanism
of the same machine different descriptions of sewing, as may be found
desirable for different descriptions of work, and make the same arm
and needle and other mechanism immediately connected therewith to
answer the purpose of performing, as far as such parts are concerned,
different varieties of stitching without materially changing or altering
such parts. The lower portions of the mechanism used for actuating
the thread or threads used in the machine, or for securing the thread
on one side, must be, however, arranged according to, or specially for
the particular kind of stitch desired, but such arrangements and
alterations may
all be secured to the one common framing or bed, and
the arm with its needle and other mechanism used for inserting the
first thread and passing through the material may be brought to bear
at the necessary points of the common bed plate of the machine; and
where such arrangements are intended to be worked, they may sepa-
rately be thrown in and out of gear with the main driving parts, and
the arm containing the needle and other mechanism immediately
connected therewith, by means of a clutch acting upon a bevelled or
other wheel, being caused to slide upon a feathered shaft or any other
well known arrangement for the same purpose. I actuate the needle,
which is secured in any convenient manner to a vertical rod in the
extreme end of the arm herein-before referred to, by means of a
coiled or other spring, and a cord or chain, or other flexible con-
nection, which is made to pass over pullies placed in the arm, which is
hollow; the one end of this chain or cord is secured to the rod
containing the needle, either for the purpose of causing it to descend
or ascend, while the spring referred to is made to give it a contrary
motion; the other end of this cord is secured to a rod or lever,

page_text: actuated directly or indirectly upon by a cam or incline placed upon a
suitable shaft, which will be herein-after more fully referred to, by using
a flexible connection, as above described. It will appear evident that the
mechanism contained in or connected with the arm may be made to radiate
or turn round to any particular point of the common bed plate or table of
the machine, in which may be arranged suitable mechanism for perform-
ing different descriptions and varieties of stitching, either in combination
with the radiating or fixed arm. Underneath the end of the arm referred
to as containing the needle, and directly underneath the needle, I place
and dispose a plate of glass, and through which a hole is formed to
allow the needle and its thread to pass, the object of this glass being
to enable the operator to see clearly the course of the seam and direct
the material underneath the needle with the greatest possible nicety,
while it offers little or no friction to the materials passing or traversed
underneath. The glass may be retained in the necessary position by
ineans of a curved or other arm, to which the glass is secured by
screws or otherwise at one end, while the other may be formed with an
eye or hole, and may be placed upon the standard or arm referred to as
containing the needle, or placed upon a centro at any convenient
part of the machine; and the arm to which the glass is fixed may be
made of steel, so that the end containing the glass may be raised up
or pressed down as found desirable, and also allow any thickness of
material to pass underneath it when it is desirable to keep the glass
elevated, or drawn up, or back; the arm to which it is fixed may be
turned round upon the arm or centre referred to and drawn entirely
out of the way of the material, or it may be raised up and made
to bear against a notch in a piu or bolt placed in a convenient part of
the machine, which bolt or pin may also serve as a stop, and deter-
mines its proper position in relation to the needle and other parts, tho
inherent spring of the steel being sufficient to give a counter action. I
also place in or secure to the end of the hollow arm containing the needle
one or two rods or slides, arranged one ou each side of the arm, in a
direct line corresponding with the travel of the material feeding motion
of the machine, for the purpose of pressing the material so as to direct
its course ou one side underneath the needle, and on the other side to

page_text: keep it in a continual state of tension, so as to prevent the same from
puckering or being drawn in. The rod or slide for guiding or directing
the course of the material is kept pressed upon it by means of a
spring, and a bearing piece is placed and held loosely by means of a pin
in a slot in the rod, which may be so disposed and formed-as to cause
its own weight to make it project from the slot and beyond. the
diameter of the rod and come against the bearing in which said rod
moves, or other stationary part, so that when the rod is pulled up by hand
it will remain so: The same arrangement of spring and bearing piece
is applicable to both rods so far, but the guiding or feeding rod has in
the end next the material a sharp edged piece or small wheel, similar
to the "rowel" in a riding spur, and which may be made to revolve
upon a pin passed through the end of the said rod. It will be found
that, by changing the position or angle of the wheel and rod, that the
material may be guided underneath the needle at pleasure with the
greatest nicety, as the operator can see the exact part where the needle
is acting, as the part which immediately covers the portion of the
material operated upon is made of glass. The end of the tension rod is
made to act upon the part of the material which has been stitched,
and made to press it against an endless band or chain, which may also
be used for the feeding or travelling motion, which is herein-after more
fully described, or made to press the material against a toothed or
frictional wheel, which may be in gear or otherwise connected with the
feeding motion; the end of the tension rod may bear directly upon or
against the material, or a wheel or roller, toothed or otherwise, may be
placed in the end of the rod by making such rod forked or slotted, so
as to form bearings for the wheel or roller to revolve upon; the same
description of spring for holding down and bearing piece or catch for
holding up this rod,-as is described in relation to the guiding rod, will
And I propose to make the table or bed of such machines of
glass or wood, or partly of glass: or of wood; I also propose making
several other parts of such machines of glass, such as the curved arm
referred to for containing the vertical needle mechanism, and in some
instances I propose to use a weight or fusee, or either, with a suitable
escapement for giving motion to such machines, on the same principle as
answer.

page_text: the movement of a clock. Another part of my improvements relates
to the kind of stitch or mode of uniting materials, and the manner in
which the threads or filaments are actuated and employed to secure
and ornament the materials operated upon, and the number of filaments
used for that purpose, which I prefer to consist of three distinct threads,
although the same mechanism, with slight modifications, may be used
for stitching with a less number of threads, as will be herein-after
referred to. And I have two distinct modes of uniting and actuating the
threads; the first mode of uniting and actuating, and which I prefer, is
as follows:-Assuming the material to be operated upon is placed in its
proper position on the bed or table of the machine, underneath the
piece of glass and needle already referred to, and the end of the first
or top thread passed through the eye of a suitable pointed needle,
and the needle, by means of its rod in which the other end is secured,
made to descend through the material, it will carry or force a portion
of the thread in a double state with or before it; the needle is then
slowly drawn up by the means already described, while. at the samė
time the end of a pointed and curved inclined instrument, through the
point, or near it; of which has been previously passed the end of another
of the three filaments, is forced or caused to advance so as to pass
between the needle and a part of the thread. While the inclined
instrument referred to is thus advanced, it carries with it the second
thread in a doubled form or loop, one side or portion of which is so
placed, partly by means of the inclined instrument being notched
or recessed at its edge and near its point, so as to allow the point
of. a peculiar kind of opener or expander to insert itself. between
the inclined opener and one portion of its thread, so that when
the inclined instrument is drawn back by means of a suitable, cam
or spring, a loop, will be formed, and the filament of which will be
on the outside of the expanding opener, which is expanded, and so
opens the loop of the second thread that a bobbin or recl, with its
usual quantity of thread, or cotton, and which forms the third thread,
may be completely passed, through, the expander, and loop so formed.
This being performed, the needle containing. the top or first thread is
caused to ascend and give the necessary tension to its thread, and the

page_text: inclined instrument or opener containing the second thread drawn back,
while the third thread has been passed through the loop formed of it;
the necessary degree of tension or pull being now given to each thread
the stitch is completed, and the operation repeated until the necessary
portion of stitching is completed. In regard to the inclined instrument
for actuating the second thread, I would remark, that it is made to pass
over two pins or inclines, so as to elevate or lower it, as the case may
be, the object of this being, first, to cause its notched end or end con-
taining the filament to free itself more readily from the expander, and
help to form the loop with greater facility and dispatch; the second
incline is for the purpose of pulling the second thread the necessary
degree for tightening the stitch, and which is done by the inclined
instrument being made to radiate or describe a curve from a centre by
means of one of the inclines referred to. And I would also remark that
I prefer this instrument to be worked in a horizontal direction, and the
bobbin containing its thread may be placed upon a centre pin, either
below or above the bed plate, and the end passed to and through the
inclined instrument in any convenient manner; and in order to prevent
the thread from unwinding too rapidly from the bobbin, a small break
or friction piece may be forced and regulated by means of a screw
against its edge, and may be a steel spring or made of india-rubber,
and to prevent the thread from becoming entangled I employ a ring,
the weight of which will be found sufficient to take up the slack of the
thread. I will now moro particularly describe the expander or instru-
ment used for opening or enlarging the loop of the second thread, so
that the bobbin containing the third may pass through it; this instru-
ment or expander performs two operations, namely, opening the loop
and also holding and receiving the bobbin or bobbins and their holders,
a wire or small rod being in the centre of it for that purpose.
It consists of a number of wires or small rods of a longer length than
the bobbins, and which I prefer to be made of steel, all being fixed in
or secured to one common piece or chock, which is placed upon a
centre or pin, supported by or secured to a stud or bracket fixed to the
framing of the machine, which pin may pass through the piece in which
the wires composing the expanders are secured, and be of sufficient

page_text: ength to retain the bobbin and its holder. While the several wires or
ods of the expander surround it and run in the same direction, the
oose or free ends of the expander are brought together, so as to form
or present a comparative small point, so as to enter with ease between
the inclined opener and the portion of its thread which is to form the
loop. The bringing together its points may be accomplished either by
an inclined piece or dise, placed within the several rods or wires, and
upon the centre rod or wire for holding and receiving the bobbin and
its holder, to which the necessary motion is imparted by means of a
forked lever and cam, while the wires of the inherent spring in the
material of which they are composed will give them a counter action
When a disc is
when the incline or piece is made to cease its action.
used it may be plain or perforated, and made to perform or produce
the same result as the incline, by curving or forming the wires of the
expander inclined, instead of being parallel, and which, by being moved
backwards and forwards, will have the effect of expanding or bringing
together the points, either for the purpose of opening the loop and
receiving or delivering the bobbin and its holder or releasing the loop,
as will be found necessary. When the loop is to be opened the
expander is caused to advance so as to enter between the second thread
and the inclined instrument, and also to prevent the loop slipping over
tho points in the course of opening; this operation performed, and the
bobbin passed through the loop and within the expander, it is then
drawn back by means of a cam and lever, and at the same time the
points brought together by the means already described.
There is a spring or incline catch in a slot, or fixed to the bobbin
rod, so that when the bobbin and its holder is made to pass a certain
length upon it, the bobbin is pulled back at the same time as the
expander; the bobbin is again released by the action of the open-
ing disc, and which also serves to force the bobbin through the
loop and from one expander to another, similar to that already
described, and which is placed in a direct opposite line to that first
referred to, and is actuated in a similar manner and by similar means,
I
although a similar one will answer the purpose.
may remark that
the outside wires are not absolutely necessary in the second bobbin
holder when materials are to be stitched in the particular manner

page_text: .described, as the centre wire with the inclined or spring catch already
referred to in reference to the, centre wire or rod on which the bobbin
and its holder are made to slide:.will be found sufficient. The bobbin
holder is composed of two round .or circular discs, which. form its ends,
and which are connected by means of one or more strips of inetal or
wires, somewhat similar to a fishing rod tackle reel; in each of its ends
are placed hollow tubes, which serve for the purpose of the bobbinsavith
its thread and holder being placed upon it, and also for the purpose of
admitting the centre wire or rod described for holding and receiving the
bobbin and its holder, the holes in the centre tubes referred to being
made square, or so formed as to.prevent the holder to turn round upon
the said rod or wire, which is also made square; or so formed as to
prevent the holder turning round upon it, while the bobbin is free to do
so, and to prevent the thread or filament escaping too freely, the thread
may be wound round on one of the rods which connect the discs or
circular ends of the holder together. And I would remark, that the ends
of the holder may be made conical, so that when they are forced against
the loop expander they may be made to open it, either alone or in
combination with the inclined piece or disc referred to; and the said
conical ends may have grooves or indentations formed in them in which
the ends of the expander may move, so as to prevent the loop slipping
over the heads of the wires of the expander until the bobbin and its
holder are made to pass. Instead of using a bobbin holder it may be
dispensed with and the bobbin itself allowed to revolve directly upon
the wire or rod, and which ought to be. made round; and in order. to
cause the spring catch or incline, formerly referred to, to retain or draw
the bobbin, the hole in said bobbin may be made wider in the middle
than at its ends and a rod or wire bent at each end, so as to admit the
bobbin between such ends, and which have holes formed in them and
mado with slightly projecting or raised rims or. inclined edges.on the
side next the bobbin, for the purpose of holding on to it at both its ends
and immediately over the hole which passes through it; round this
bent wire or rod the thread may be passed once or twice, as'the case
may be, which will prevent the thread escaping too freely. The second
mode of stitching, and which may be found preferable in some instances,
consists of passing the second, and, third, threads with their, bobbins

page_text: entirely through the loop of the first thread, instead of using them in
the manner already described for producing the first stitch; and when
this method is adopted, the second thread, instead of being passed
through the point of the inclined opener, is placed upon the wire or rod
of a similar expander to that already described, and which is placed
opposite two other similar expanders placed upon the one side of the
needle, the point of action of such needle being, during both modes of
stitching, in the middle or between the expanders and the holders they
contain. Instead, however, of one expander and holder, I place two
such instruments or apparatus on one side and a holder on the other,
and I place or secure the said two expanders and holders to a move-
able slide, instead of a fixed stud or bracket, as previously described,
for the purpose of bringing, by means of a cam and lever or other
equivalent, the expanders, with the bobbin which they contain, alternately
opposite the centre of the expander and holder, which is placed in a
stationary position on the opposite side, and which alternate motion is
for the purpose of receiving one of the bobbins from the opposite side
through the loop, and inserting the other that is passing it through the
loop into the other expander and on to the holder, and when this opera-
tion is performed this particular kind of stitch will be completed. And
in order that the points of the expander may readily enter between the
necessary side or portion of the thread, so as to form a loop, I use an
inclined hooked instrument to draw the thread slightly to one side, and
which instrument may be actuated by means of a suitable cam placed.
upon the same shaft that carries the cam for actuating the other parts
of the machine, all such cams being placed upon one shaft, and also a
stud or cam for giving motion to an endless friction chain or band for
feeding the material, and herein-before referred to, and which chain or
band is made to pass over a suitable pulley, or otherwise suitably
connected for receiving an intermittent motion from said stud or cam
by or through a lever placed upon a suitable centre or otherwise; and
the distance the said band or lever is made to travel the material, and
regulate the length of stitch, may be regulated by means of an incline,
by causing it to come in contact with the lever referred' to, or the
moveable arm of the wheel on which the friction band is placed, by

page_text: regulating the effective stroke or travel of the cam or stud referred to
as being placed upon the shaft. The same result can be obtained by
attaching a cord or other suitable connection either to the lever or
moveable arm referred to, and which may be wound round a roller
or other equivalent, for the purpose of regulating the effective action
of the before-mentioned cam or stud, and an arm or indicator, fixed or
moveable, made to shew the length of stitch.
Another portion of my Invention relates to stitching or securing
buttons or similar fastenings to or on materials or garments, and im-
parting to the materials and buttons the necessary movements, so as to
bring the material and button underneath or opposite the point of the
needle, and which I perform in the following manner and by the
following means:-Instead of or on the top of the endless band referred
to, and on the bed plate of the machine, I place a compound slide, on
which I place the material to or on which the fasteners are to be
secured; this compound slide or plate has a hole in its middle, rather
longer than the radius or circumference within which the holes in the
buttons are placed. This slide is kept against two or more peculiar
toothed wheels or toothed ratchets by means of suitable springs or
weights; a portion of each tooth of these wheels is made parallel or
correspond with a line drawn from the centre of the wheel, whilo the
other portion of the tooth is made inclined. This wheel is so placed
upon a shaft or connected with another similar toothed wheel that the
incline part of the tooth of one wheel is made to act upon one of the
slides of the compound slides described, while the part corresponding
with the circle above referred to is made to act against the other
portion of the compound slide. The particular part or point of the
material to or on which the button is to be stitched is placed immedi-
ately over the hole (already referred to) in the plate; the button is now
placed on the material and another plate placed over the button. This
last plate has a recessed part formed in it, and which recess is about
the size of the button; there is a hole formed in the middle of this
recessed part, but rather smaller than the button and recess referred
to, the object of this being to press down the outer edges of the button,
while, by means of the plate last referred to having a hole in, as

page_text: described, the action of the needle and thread is not interfered with.
There are two small pins placed in this slide, which take into corre-
sponding holes in the lower slide, and determine their relative or proper
positions, the two plates referred to, with the material and button
placed between them, being placed and disposed underneath the glass
plate formerly referred to; and underneath the needle an intermit-
tent motion is imparted to the wheels already described, care being
taken that the holes in the button be in a proper position for being
successively and alternately brought immediately beneath the point of
the needle. It will appear evident to a practical man that this
arrangement can easily be adapted to the machine already described,
or any other similar machine for the same purpose, the ordinary feeding
motion being during such operation dispensed with or thrown out of
gear; but I prefer to place the immediately above described mechanism
on the same bed plate, but in a different position, and when such
arrangements are to be worked the radial arm referred to is brought to
bear at the necessary point of action.
The next portion of my improvements relates to and consists in
weaving or securing the edges of "button holes" as generally made for
shirts and other articles of clothing, and in securing or ornamenting
the edges of garments and other materials, and wherein I employ the
saine description of radiating arm, but instead of the needle being fixed
permanently in the rod it is released from the said rod at each stitch or
alternate stitch, in the manner and for the purpose herein-after described
and set forth; and I will first describe the means I employ for releasing
the needle and mode of performing the same, which are as follows:-I
fit the upper end of the needle loosely in the end of a rod similar to
that already described, but slotted and tapered at such end, so that by
the action of a tapering collar or incline it is readily brought together
and made to hold the needle tight, and this I perform at the necessary
time or point of the operation herein-after described by connecting the
said tapering collar or incline to a lever actuated by a suitable cam, or
instead of a lever connection I employ a cord and spring, such as
already described in reference to the curved arm; and for performing
this operation I employ three other instruments besides the needle already

page_text: referred to, namely, a "needle returner," and two hooks or "fingers,'
and which I term the first and second fingers, one of which works at
the top or above the material, and the other below it or on the opposite
side, and which instruments I actuate by means of cams and levers, as
herein-after more particularly referred to. There is a plate placed
upon the top or bed of the machine, and which plate contains or
admits a smaller plate, which can be changed for any other, according
to the size of button hole or description of work to be performed. This
main or first plate is connected with two cams, which are changeable or
removeable for the same purpose as the small plate referred to, and
such cams may be either grooved or the plates may be held in contact
with them by means of springs, the purpose and intention of such
cams being to give the necessary direction to the material while passing
underneath the needle. The needle returner has a tapered hole
formed in it so as to protect the point of the needle from injury. The
first finger consists of an incline hook or piece which is made by
means of its cam to come between the needle and one side or portion
of the thread, and bring said portion directly underneath a second
hook which is abovo the material, and caused to descend by means of
its cam and though the button-hole, and on which the first hook or
instrument, by a slight sideward movement is made to transfer the
loop; this second finger is now made to ascend, and a lateral move-
ment being imparted to it by coming against a pin or inclino in its
ascent, it brings the loop immediately over the upper end of the needle,
said needle having been previously disengaged or released from its rod
by the incans already described, and pulled through the material until
its upper end has become nearly on a level with the material, this
operation being for the purpose of allowing the upper finger or hook
bringing the thread over the end of the needle in the form of a loop;
the returner is now caused to return the needle a sufficient distanco to
enter the holed and slit end of the rod, when at the same time it is
tightened and drawn up, while the second instrument or finger is
slightly turned so as to let go the loop by means of an incline connected
to the needle rod or holder acting upon it in its ascent. This operation
performed, the mechanism is prepared to repeat the operation; and I

page_text: would remark that a plate corresponding in design to the hole to be
operated upon, but rather longer, ought to be placed underneath the
material, and another on the top, but rather larger in the hole; and said
plate, in order to determine its relative position to the main one, ought
to have pins passed through it, which fit in corresponding holes in
the plate placed upon the other side of the material, and such pins may
be sharp pointed and pass through the material, or the lower plates
may have pins in it on which the material will be kept in its proper
place;
and in regard to the finger or hook Number 2, I would remark
that it may be placed upon a centre so as to turn round, and also fixed
or secured eccentric to its upper portion, so that it can be made to work
in any required direction. And in regard to the cams for imparting
motion to the material, I prefer to placo them upon a different shaft
from that on which I place the cams for giving the necessary motion to
the various instruments referred to, and this mode of stitching last
described, and which I perform with one thread, is applicable to
securing or ornamenting the general edges of garments, and which,
together with having one of the lower threads already described colored
my im-
or of a different colour, constitute the ornamenting part of
provements.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 6th June 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
JULIAN BERNARD, of 15, Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of December, in the scar of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in, the seven-
teenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Julian Bernard, Her special' license
that I, the said Julian Bernard, my executors, administrators, and

page_text: assigns, or such others as I, the said Julian Bernard, my executors,
administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR STITCHING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING
VARIOUS MATERIALS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Julian Bernard, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the accom-
panying Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that
is to say:
My said Invention relates,―
1, to an improved arrangement and construction of mechanisın
for effecting the stitching or uniting and ornamenting of various
materials.
Second, to an improved arrangement and construction of mechanism
for stitching or securing buttons or other fastenings to garments and
to various materials.
Third, to an improved arrangement and construction of mechanism
for stitching button holes, and ornamenting and securing the edges of
garments and other materials.
Fourth, to an improved mode or modes of stitching or ornamenting
and uniting various materials, such mode or modes constituting a new
form of stitch.
Fifth, to a system or mode of imparting motion to sewing machines,
and regulating the same.
g

page_text: Fig. 1, on Sheet 1 of my Drawings, represents a vertical longitudinal
section of my machine, as fitted with two kinds of mechanism for
effecting different kinds of stitching in the same machine.
Fig. 1, on Sheet 2, represents a front elevation of the same, with
the front of the bed plate removed to shew a portion of the internal
mechanism.
Fig. 1, on Sheet 3 of the Drawings, represents a plan of the machine
with the top plate removed to shew the mechanism underneath.
The same letters of reference refer to corresponding parts in the above
Sheets of Drawings.
A, is the table of the machine, supported by the four feet B, which
are screwed into it. In the centre of this table, which may be of any
convenient form, is fitted to revolve freely, the curved rotatory, bracket
or arm C, which turns upon the fixed boss D, cast in one piece or
otherwise attached to the table. This arm is made hollow, and bas
cast or otherwise attached to it n vertical tubular guide E, for carrying
the needle holder F. Two caps or end pieces G, are screwed on to the
top and bottom of the tubular guide E, such caps serving as guides for
the needle holder. The needle H, which is made with an eye near the
point, is held in the holder by means of a small set screw or other con-
venient means. It receives its thread from the bobbin H', on the top
of the arm C, and the slack is taken up by the spring H", round the
coils of which the thread is forced on its way to the needle, which is
actuated by the combined action of the helical spring I, and the cord
or chain J, the former serving to press it into the material, and tho
latter serving to raise it or withdraw it therefrom. This latter move-
ment is effected by means of a suitable cam K fixed on the driving
shaft L of the machine. This cam is not shewn in the section on
Sheet 1, in order to prevent confusion, but is represented in the general
plan of the mechanism in Sheet 3 of the Drawings. A stud pin M, is
fitted to the bottom of the connecting bar N, and is kept pressed
against the periphery of the cam K, by the action of the helical spring
I, in the guide E. The lower portion of the connecting rod or bar N
is slotted at O, to allow the driving shaft to pass through, and the upper
5 extremity of the bar is attached to one end of the cord or gut J, which is

page_text: passed over the anti-friction guide pulleys P, P, fitted inside the hollow
arm C. The other end of the cord or gut is secured to a lug or pin Q
in the side of the needle holder F. The material to be operated upon
which is not shewn in the Drawing, is held down by the curved spring
R, attached to the rotating arm C, and capable of moving-round with
it, the free end of the spring being bent at right angles to form a
holding plate S. The lateral movement of the spring is prevented by
the small screw T, which passes through a slot in the spring, and is
screwed into the arm C, or in place of this arrangement of cloth holder
the arrangement shewn in red lines U may be adopted. In this case
the spring U is also made to work freely round the rotating arm, but
nearer the table, and it is kept from moving laterally by the aid of the
fixed stud V, the upper portion of which passes through a hole in the
spring and is notched so that the spring may be held up for the removal
of the material, by being pushed into any one of the lateral notches
formed in the upper portion of the stud. As this ärrangement will be
casily understood by the practical man, I have not considered it neces-
sary to shew the notches for holding up the spring in the Drawings.
The material is fed or traversed under the needle by: being laid upon
and pressed against an endless band W, of leather or other suitable
material, which is passed over the two tension rollers' or pulleys X, X.
carried in brackets attached to the underside of the table A. This band
passes through slots in the table and traverses for some distance along
its upper surface, as shewn in Sheet 2 of the Drawings, and it may be
tightened by turning the screw Y, which actuates the sliding bearing
Z of the moveable pulley X'. Z', Z", Sheet 2, are guide pulleys or
rollers, for directing the course of the material and for keeping it in a
continual-state of tension, thereby preventing the same from puckering
underneath the needle. They are fitted on to the forked ends of the
rods Z³, which are kept pressed down by helical springs inside the
guides Z. The rods may be retained elevated by catches, as at 2,
which take into a notch in the side of the rod. By turning or adjusting
these rods and rollers the material may be made to traverse in any
desired direction. Motion is communicated to the feeding mechanism
by means of the lever a working on a fixed centre at b, in 'the side of

page_text: the machine framing. One end of this lever is kept pressed against a
feather or tappet C, on the driving shaft, by means of a vulcanized
india-rubber or other spring d. The opposite end of this lever bears
at e, upon the arm f, which actuates certain friction mechanisın con-
tained within the hollow pulley X', and communicates to it an inter-
mittent rotatory motion. I do not consider it necessary to describe
here the peculiar arrangement of friction' mechanism for effecting this
movement, as it has been fully described and illustrated by me in the
Specification of my Patent for "Improvements in Obtaining Differential
Mechanical Movements," bearing date on or about the Thirtieth day of
May, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
The arm f is kept up against the under side of the lever a, by means
of a vulcanized india-rubber or other spring 9, which is attached to a
stud or pin on the arm'f, and to a fixed book I on the under side of
the table A. From the above arrangement it will be seen that each
time the end of the lever a is elevated by the tappet c, the opposite
end will depress the arm f, and so give motion to the pulley X and
endless band W, which will draw the material with it. The length of
stitch is adjusted or regulated by the notched eccentric j, fitted under
the machine frame and pressing upon a swell k, in the lever a. This
eccentric may be fitted with an indicator as at 1, to indicate outside
the machine, on a suitable dial plate, the length of stitch being formed;
but I would here observe that I lay no claim to the use of indicating
mechanism for shewing the length of stitch in sewing machines, as the
same has been previously employed by me. The action of the notched
eccentric is to bring the end of the lever a nearer to or further from
the tappet or feather c, on the driving shaft, thereby regulating the
amount of stroke of the lever at each revolution of the shaft, and
consequently regulating the length of the stitch. The eccentric
may be made sufficiently large to be capable of throwing the feeding
mechanism entirely out of gear, by elevating the end of the lever a,
until it is altogether free from the tappet c, when of course the
travelling action will cease. Beneath the table A are fitted two
horizontal rods or wires m, m³, in the same axial line as shewn in the
plan view. The wire m' is attached to a rectangular holder n, which

page_text: turns on a centre in the table at o. This holder is kept in the position
shown in the Drawing by the blade spring p, pressing upon one of its
sides. These wires form the supports on which the bobbin or reel
traverses backwards and forwards, and the object of making one of them
moveable is to enable the bobbin to be taken off or replaced when
requisite. This bobbin, which is shown larger than necessary, is held
in a forked holder r, fitted with a screwed boss 8, at each end, by
which it bears and slides upon the rods m, m². These bosses serve
also to tighten up the bobbin and give the necessary amount of friction
or drag thereto by means of their conical ends, which project slightly
inside the bobbin, as shewn in dotted lines on Sheet 2 of the Drawings.
The bobbin holder and bobbin are traversed to and fro along the rods
or wires m, m³, by means of the two picking levers t, t¹, which work on
fixed centres at u, u', in the under side of the table a, and are actuated
by the grooved cams v, v³, fast on the driving shaft L. The free or
striking ends of the picking levers are situated immediately beneath
the under sides of the bosses &, as shown at t, in Sheet 2, and each boss
has a small projection 2r, formed upon it to catch upon the picking
levers, and thereby hold the bobbin steady and prevent it from becoming
accidentally displaced. The rebound of the bobbin is prevented by the
aid of a slight spring a, attached to each of the rods' m, m³, so as to
check the course of the bobbin as it arrives towards the end of its
traverse in either direction. y, y, are fixed inclines, attached to the
under side of the table a, and against the under sides of these inclines
work the picking levers t, t'. By this means, as the levers move
forward in striking the bobbin holder, they pass under and are depressed
slightly by the inclines, as at t, Sheet 3, thereby allowing the catch or
projection w, on the boss s, of the bobbin holder to pass freely over the
end of the picking lever, which has been slightly depressed for that
purpose., is a "loop opener" and thread carrier combined, which
consists of a pointed instrument formed with an eye near its pointed
end; it is fitted into and carried by the holder or slide 1, working in
the fixed bearings 2, which are secured to the under side of the table
A. This slide has attached to it an arm or link 3, which is slotted at
its lower end, and works over a fixed pin 4. To this link is fitted a

page_text: stud or anti-friction pulley 5, which works in the groove 6, of the
actuating cam 7, fast on the main driving shaft. It will thus be seen
that a longitudinal traverse will be communicated to the slide 1, and
loop opener, by the action of the cam 7. The loop openers, is sup-
plied with thread from the bobbin or reel 8, which is carried by the
rotating arm c. This thread is passed first through a guide 9, thence
through an opening in the table A, and through a spring guide 10,
(which takes up the slack) shewn on Sheet 3, for the purpose of obtain-
ing the uccessary friction or drag. 11, represents an instrument which
I term the "loop expander." It consists of a piece of wire slightly
hooked or hollowed at 12, and fitted into the end of the rocking spindle
13, which works in the bearings 14. The opposite end of this spindle
is fitted with a crank 15, the pin of which works in the groove of the
cam 16, fast on the driving shaft L. By this means, when the cam
revolves, the spindle will rock in its bearings, and the end 12 of the
loop expander" will ascend or descend, according to the motion of
the spindle 13. The whole of the mechanism may be put in motion
either by the winch handle 17, or by a barrel spring, or by a weighted
cord 18, wound round a barrel or drum, which gives motion to the spur
wheel 19, through the ratchet wheel 20, and ball 21, attached to the side
of the spur wheel. This spur wheel gears into a pinion 22, fast on the
driving shaft, which carries also a friction disc 28. A lever or friction
brako 24, faced with wood, leather, or other suitable material, is pressed
against the periphery of the disc 23, and serves to stop or regulate the
speed of the machine, the lever handle 24 being placed in suitable
notches to retain it at any required degree of pressure. The wheels
20, 25, and 26, are merely for facilitating the winding up of the weight
or spring without interfering with the working part of the machine.
By this means the machine, having been wound up, will continue to
work until the cord or spring has run off or unwound from the barrel,
or until the actuating weight can descend no further. In operating
by this machine the material is placed upon the endless board W, and
the pressing plate S is let down upon it, the inherent spring in the
steel arm R, keeping it constantly pressed down. The machine is now
set in motion either by the weight and cord, or spring, or by the winch

page_text: "
handle before mentioned, and the needle H, which has been elevated
during this time, is allowed to descend by the action of the spring. I,
and punctuate or pierce the material carrying a thread with it, colored
red in the Drawings, which it receives from the bobbin H. The
"loop opener" and thread carrier Z, now advances with its 'thread;
colored blue in the Drawing, and forces its point between the red
thread and the side of the needle H. The blue thread of the loop
opener is now laid hold of by the hook 12 of the "loop extender,"
which draws it down and widens it sufficiently to allow the bobbin q,
with the thread, colored yellow in the Drawing, to be forced through
by the action of the picking levers t, t.". The thread of the bobbin q
may be present through one or more of the series of holes in the bobbin
holder r, to obtain the requisite drag. The above operations being
effected, the "loop opener" is drawn back again to the position
shewn in the plan, at the same time that the "loop expander" 11 is
returning to its original position, and the needle H is being raised by
the action of the cam and cords J, hercin-before described. Thus the
whole of the three threads are drawn and tightened simultaneously
and the stitch completed; the cloth then makes another movement
forward, and the operations are repeated. By this peculiar form of
stitch, which is shewn in the detail diagrams, Figure 2 and 3, Sheet 4,
an interlocking of the three threads is effected, which by their friction
upon each other prevents the upper thread from pulling either of
the lower ones through the material, thereby producing a neater and
stronger stitch than has hitherto been produced by machinery. As
many modifications of this stitch may be made, I do not confine myself
to the precise mode described of effecting the same, the main or
principal feature of this portion of my Invention being the securing or
uniting of materials by a stitch composed or formed of three distinct
threads or filaments; and that part of my Invention which relates to
the ornamenting of materials consists in the employment of stitches
composed or formed of three distinct threads or filaments, as above
described, which threads or filaments may be of distinct or different
colors.
In order to be enabled to produce more than one kind of stitch in

page_text: this machine, I make use of the rotating arm C, which is turned round
on its centre D, and the needle being properly adjusted and the stop
pin C' being first removed and again inserted, when the arm with the
needle H is in the proper position for working in concert with the
other mechanism. The additional mechanism which I have shown in
the Drawings is that employed for producing the well-known crochet
stitch, the catches or hooks 27 and 28 being actuated by the levers 29,
which work on the fixed centres 30. These levers are operated upon
by the grooved cams 81, fast on the main driving shaft of the machine.
The material may be fed in precisely the same manner already
described (or by any other well-known arrangement), and therefore I
have not considered it necessary to repeat the same in the Drawing.
And I would here observe, that although I have shown the crochet
mechanism as being the simplest addition to my machine for producing
a variety of stitches, yet I do not confine myself to any peculiar
arrangement of mechanism or stitch, the main feature and principle
of this portion of my Invention being the employment and combination
in one machine of two or more combinations of mechanism working
separately, or partly in combination with each other, for producing
two or more descriptions of stitches, such different combinations of
mechanism being all placed upon or connected with one common bed
plate. I propose also to employ clutches, whether friction or otherwise,
for throwing in or out of gear the different parts or arrangements of
mechanism, according as they may or may not be required for imme-
diate use; as these clutches, however, are well understood by the
practical man, I have not considered it absolutely necessary to shew
them in my Drawings, as they would only tend to render the same
more complicate. Fig. 1 on Sheet 4 of my Drawings represents a
portion of a sewing machine of another modification, wherein the
arm C, for raising the needle, is fixed to the central leg or support B,
and the table A, with its mechanism, is made to revolve round the
boss D on the support B. Fig. 2 on the same Sheet of Drawings
represents another mode of traversing the table A, for bringing the
different kinds of mechanism carried on the table into action; this is
effected by a screw B and handle C. The end of the screw works in

page_text: the fixed support D, and the table formed with a slot E slides over
the rectangular boss F. G is a nut attached to the front of the table,
through which nut the screw passes. Fig. 1 on Sheet 5 of my Draw-
ings represents a side elevation and partial section of my apparatus for
sewing buttons or similar fastenings on to garments or materials suited
to hold such fastenings; and Fig. 2 is a corresponding plan of the
same, with a portion of the bed plate A broken away. I propose, in
some instances, to attach this mechanism to the bed plate of a machine
similar to the one herein-before described, in lieu of the crochet
mechanism shewn therein, this mechanism being actuated by and
connected with the inain driving shaft L of the machine. B and C
are two compound sliding plates, one working in the other. The
plate B is secured to the vertical stud D, which is fitted at its lower
oxtremity with a short pin E. This pin is kept pressed against the
periphery of the cam F, by means of a spring G. The travelling
movement of this slide or plate is obtained from the cam F, fast on the
end of the short shaft or spindle II, which works in the fixed bear-
ings I, I, attached to the under side of the bed plate A. The opposite
end of this shaft is fitted with a bevel wheel J, which gears into the
wheel K, fast on the end of the short shaft M. This shaft works in
the fixed bearings N, N, attached to the under side of the bed plate.
On the opposite end of the shaft is fitted the cam O, which gives
motion to the second slide C, through the stud pin P, in the side of the
vertical stud Q, which may be rivetted or otherwise secured to the
sliding plate. The stud pin P is also held against the cam O by means
of a vulcanized india-rubber or other spring R. Motion is communicated
to the shaft II by means of the pinion S, fast on the driving shaft L. This
pinion gears into the intermediate spur wheel T, working loose upon the
fixed stud U. V is a smaller spur wheel or pinion screwed or cast on
to the wheel T, and gearing into the larger spur wheel W, fast on the
short shaft H. The slide C works in a groove in the slide B, and the
material to which the button or other similar fastening is to be attached
is laid upon the surface of the two plates B and C. The button to be
attached is now placed upon the cloth in a proper position underneath
the needle C', and is then held down or retained in position by a disc or

page_text: plate X. This disc has a circular aperture formed in its centre, of a
larger radius than the radius or the circumference of the space occupied
by the holes or stitches in the button. This plate (shewn in section in
Fig. 1) is placed over the botton and material, and held in its proper
position by the two sharp pointed pins Y, Y, fixed in the plate C, and
projecting up through the material, as shewn in the Drawings.
In sewing or attaching buttons or other similar fastenings by this
machine, the needle C', with its thread, may be brought down through
one of the holes in the button by any convenient mechanism, and the
loop which is formed under the material may be secured by the
arrangement herein-before described. But I desire it to be distinctly
understood that I do not confine or restrict myself to any particular
form of stitch, as the same may be varied, but what I consider as
forming the main feature of this portion of my Invention is, the
securing or attaching of buttons or other similar fastenings on to
materials by bringing the hole, or that part of the button through
which the neello is to be passed or inserted, beneath or opposite
the point of the said needle alternately by suitable mechanism,
and the securing of buttons and other similar fastenings by a thread
passed in a double or looped piece through the button and afterwards
secured by looping, whether alone or in combination with one, or two,
or more threads. The needle C', being elevated, the plate B, with the
button and material, is pushed forward by means of the cam F, a
certain distance, corresponding to the distance between the adjacent
holes in the button, and the needle again descends through the cor-
responding hole brought under or opposite it. On the second rising of
the needles, the plate C is drawn in the direction of the arrow by the
spring R, and a third hole is thereby brought under the needle. On
the third ascent of the needle, the plate B is drawn back by the
spring G, thereby bringing the fourth hole of the button under the
needle point, which completes the movement of the machine. In
securing buttons with two holes merely, the mitre wheel K is dis-
engaged from the wheel J, thereby throwing the shaft M with its
mechanism out of gear, since the button will require to travel back-
wards and forwards in one direction only. The gearing between the

page_text: driving shaft L, and shaft H, will also require changing, to give a double
speed to the cum F. On Sheet 6, Figure 1, of my Drawings is repre-
sented a side elevation, partly in section, of a machine for weaving the
edges of button holes, or securing and ornamenting the edges of various
materials, and Figure 2, Sheet 5, exhibits a plan of part of the
same; Figure 8, Sheet 6, a front elevation of a portion of the machine;
Figures 4, 5, and 6, details and parts of the same. A, represents the
bed plate to which the machaism is secured; B, is a bracket or arm
placed upon the centre stud C, secured in the bed plate; D, is the
driving shaft placed in bearings, as shewn, and carries the fly wheel D',
cams 8, 4, 5, 6, and 7; and on bracket B, are secured the studs or
pins 8 and 9, loose in their bearings, and in which are secured to
the moveable "fingers" or spring levers or arms 1 and 2, as shewn;
the tubular bearing E is sccured or otherwise fastened into the bracket,
which tube forms a bearing for the rod or needle carriers F, and collar
G, which collar is held pressed towards the conical or tapered end of
the rod F, and is limited in its ascent by the finer pin. H, and presses
upon the tapered end of the rod F, by the spring lever I, fixed at
J, K, L, and M, and are corresponding or similar parts to E, F, G,
and I, and are secured to the cranked bracket O, attached to the bed
plate; these parts are actuated by the spring lever M', M', by the
spring M, and cam 3. P, is a ratchet or toothed wheel actuated by
means of the pawl Q, and lever R, through the descent of S. On tho
same stud with the ratchet is placed a cam 'T, shown at Fig. 4, on an
enlarged scale, and which will be better understood by reference to said
Figures. U and U', at Fig. 3, represents 2 inclined pieces or cams,
which act as guides or cams, shown more clearly at Fig. 5 and 6,
and are for the purposes of guiding and directing the spring "fingers"
1 and 2, as will herein-after more particularly be referred to. V and VI,
shows two slides, one of which has pins or points in its surface, moved
and traversed respectively by the cam 7 and cam T, through the cranked
connection, and pin W and W', the latter secured to the slide V,
as shown, while the stud a, fixed to the slide V, is made to press
against the cam T, by means of a spring, but which spring is not shown
in the Drawing. 6, is a spring plate which holds the material to be

page_text: operated upon, pressed upon the plate V. The plate V, has a hole
formed in it at c, and V has a slot d, formed in it for the purpose
herein-after described. The levers 10 and 11, placed upon centres, as
shewn, are connected to the pins 8 and 9 by means of the cords 13
and 14, which are wound round the ends of the said pins, and held
pressed against their cams 5 and 6 by the springs 15 and 16. The
lever 12 is for the purpose of working the upper needle rod F; a pin
secured into the said rod and passed into the sloted end of said lever
serves to form the connection, while a spring, but not shown in the
Drawing, keeps the lever pressed against the cam.
Having thus described and referred to the different parts, I will now
endeavour to describe the action of this machine, and the manner in
which I make or secure the edges of materials and button holes. A
suitable hole being made in the garment or material to be operated
upon, it is then placed and properly adjusted underneath the spring
arın 6, and over the sloted plate V', the needle, which may be a double
pointed one with an eye near its centre, is inserted into the lower sloted
rod or holder, such holder being parted for its reception while its thread
is above the material, and will be properly adjusted by the action of the
"spring fingers" 1 and 2. As the process of making the button hole
progresses, the needle is first drawn down until by its lower holder
until its upper point is lower than the material, the sloted holder
being then closed or made to grasp the needle in its descent by
means of the collar and spring lever, the upper or needle holder above
being released, the needle by means of its sloted end having descended
until the tightening action of the collar has ceased to keep it closed.
The collars G, and L, are regulated in their action upon the needle
holders by means of the spring levers I and M, and pin H, the last
shown only in the upper collar. The slide V, which carries the
slide V', and on which the material is placed, as exhibited, receives an
alternating motion, communicated to it by means of the cam 7, through
the rod W, as 'shewn, which motion has the effect of bringing the
edge of the material over the point of the needle, so that it will 'be
inserted into as it is forced upwards, which operation is performed by
the rod already described, until the needle is inserted a sufficient dis-

page_text: "
tance into its upper holder, when said holder is closed and made to
draw up the needle by the cam 4, in a similar manner to that described
in relation to the lower holder or returner K. The needle being
drawn entirely through the material, as exhibited, and the thread
adjusted by the "spring fingers" 1 and 2, in the manner herein-
after more fully described, the material is again moved laterally by the
slide V and cam 7, already described, so that the needle in its descent
passes free through the hole in the material, or along its edge, but not
through such material to and into the lower rod again; as the collar
descends it imparts motion to a ratchet wheel P, which, together with
the cam T, are fixed upon the stud T; this arrangement is shewn
enlarged at Figuro 4. A travelling motion is communicated to the slide
V, which moves in a groove in the slide V, the cam coming in contact
with the pin a, secured to the slide, as shewn, and which is held to the
cam by means of a spring, not shewn in the Drawings; the material
in this manner receives its travelling motion, and having done so the
needle is again inserted through the material. The "spring fingers'
1 and 2 having adjusted the thread, and formed and passed it over the
needle, which operation will herein-after be more fully described, the
operation is repeated until the button hole or material be stitched.
The operation of the "spring fingers" are as follows:-When the needle
has been raised high enough for the "spring fingers" 1 to oscillate in
the direction of the arrow, and continue its course until all the thread
is taken up and the needle made to descend, the "finger" N° 2 is then
caused to oscillate in the same direction, and by means of its hooked
end being lower than N° 1 finger, it passes beneath the thread, and
when it returns takes the thread from the other, and as it passes
the point of the needle, said needle ascends between the loop so formed.
As the fingers continue their course in the direction of the arrow 2,
the "fingers" pass over inclines, shewn at Figures 5 and 6. When N°1
nears the needle, it passes, so as to avoid contact with the needle, and by
the time it has passed the central line of the needle, the loop it held
will be entirely taken up by or transferred to finger N° 2; the needle
now ascends, when N° 1 finger again oscillates in the direction of the
arrow, and so the operation is in this manner repeated as required.

page_text: The "fingers" 1 and 2 are actuated by means of cams 5 and 6, against
which they are held by means of springs, which are not shewn in the
Drawings; the motion is transmitted to said cams through the levers
10 and 11, cords 18 and 14, which are wound round the studs 8 and
9; these studs havo coiled round them steel springs 15 and 16, and
which springs, together with the inherent spring in the "spring fingers"
provides for the decreasing the length of the thread as the operation
progresses.
I may remark that I prefer the needle passed once or twice through
the thread end next the needle, so as to prevent it from leaving or
slipping out of its eye. The kind of stitch or button hole performed
by this machine is similar to that performed by hand.
And I desire it to be distinctly understood that I do not limit or
confine myself to the exact form or arrangements described in rela-
tion to this part of my Invention for carrying the same into effect,
as many modifications or arrangements may be combined without
deviating from the principle or main features of this part of my
Invention.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used
or carried into effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that I do not con-
fine or restrict myself to the precise details or arrangements which I
have had occasion to describe or refer to, as many variations may be
made therefrom without deviating from the principles or main features
of my said Invention; but what I consider to be novel and original, and
therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in
part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the application and use of a rotatory arm or bracket working
round a fixed centre on the bed plate for carrying the needle, and a
portion of the needle actuating mechanism, whereby the arm and
needle may be brought to different positions on the bed plate of the
machine for effecting different varieties of stitching.
Second, the application and use of a revolving or sliding bed plate
for the purpose of bringing different kinds of mechanism under the
needle to effect different varieties of stitching..

page_text: Third, the combination in-one,machine of various kinds of mecha-
nism, parts of such mechanism being specially arranged according to
the particular form of stitch required, and working in conjunction with
one needle, slide, or carrier.
Fourth, the application and use of clutches or friction discs and straps
for throwing in or--out of gear, and for regulating or for stopping
entirely the various moving parts of sewing machines.
Fifth, the system or mode of actuating the needle by means of a
chain or cord and spring through a circular hollow arm.
Sixth, the system or mode of driving sewing machines by means of a
weight or spring.
Seventh, the mode of regulating the speed or action of the same, as
described:
Eighth, the application and use of the rods fitted with small pullies
or wheels, pressing upon the surface of the material and guiding its
course, and keeping the scam in a state of tension, as herein-before
described.
.
Ninth, the application and use of a curved blade spring for holding
down the material, such spring-being attached either to the revolving
bracket, or to a stud in the bed plate.
Tenth, the application and use of the rods or wires m, and m³, for
carrying the bobbin g.
Eleventh, the system or mode of securing, uniting, or ornamenting
materials by means of three threads, as herein-before referred to.
Twelfth, the mode of regulating the length of stitch by means of the
notched éccentric, as herein-before described.
Thirteenth, the system or mode of securing buttons or other similar
fastenings, as herein-before referred to.
Fourteenth, the making, weaving, or stitching the edges of button
holes by passing the needle entirely through the hole or along the edge,
of the material, without said needle being inserted through it until its
return or alternate action or motion.
Fifteenth, the use of the moveable plate or plates, or slides for tra-
velling or holding the material while button holes are being made.
or operated upon, as referred to.

page_text: Sixteenth, the mode of passing the needle through the edges of
button holes by means of rods or slides.
Seventeenth, the actuating of such rods or slides by means of cams
or levers.
Eighteenth, the releasing or changing the needle employed in
making button holes from one holder or rod to another.
Nineteenth, imparting a lateral motion to the material, so that the
needle passes through the hole and through its edge alternately.
Twentieth, the use and application of levers, or arms, or rods
with hooked ends, similar to the fingers 1 and 2, for tightening the
thread and taking up the slack, or preventing the thread from getting
entangled.
Twenty-first, the use and application of pointed pins for retaining
the material in position while being moved.
Twenty-second, the application and use of a hooked instrument or
instruments acted upon by inclines, for the purpose of forming the loop
and passing the thread over the needle in machinery for sewing button
holes.
Twenty-third, the combination of a straight needle in conjunction
with a slide or rod, for securing the edges of button holes when such
edges are secured by the kind of stitch herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, the Sixth day of June, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-four.
JULIAN BERNARD.