IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHENILLE OR LIKE FABRICS SUITABLE TO BE USED IN WOVEN AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL PILED FABRICS
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Archibald Templeton, of No. 7, Skinner Street, in
the City of London, and John Lawson, of Glasgow, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHENILLE OR LIKE FABRICS
SUITABLE TO BE USED IN WOVEN AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL PILED FABRICS."
Sealed the 17th January 1860, and dated the 7th November 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Archibald Templeton and
John Lawson at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
Petition, on the 7th November 1859.
We, ARCHIBALD TEMPLETON, of No. 7, Skinner Street, in the City of
London, and JOHN LAWSON, of Glasgow, do hereby declare the nature of the
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHENILLE OR LIKE
FABRICS SUITABLE TO BE USED IN WOVEN AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL PILED FABRICS,"
to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
chenille or like fabrics suitable to be used in woven and other ornamental piled
fabrics. For these purposes in place of making chenille or like fabrics by cross
or other weaving, as heretofore, the yarns of worsted or other fibres are laid
side by side so as to form a sheet of unconnected yarns laid parallel to each
other, and the several yarns so laid together in a sheet are then combined or
connected together by making parallel rows of stitches produced: by a sewing
machine having several needles, and worked in such manner as to produce the

page_text: rows of parallel stitches simultaneously and transversely, or at right angles to
the direction in which the yarns are laid, and such stitches may consist either
of tambour work, or they may be made by sewing machines where two
threads are used to each needle, one at the back and the other at the front of
the yarns.
It is preferred, in carrying out this Invention, to use sewing machines
arranged to work with two threads to each needle, and to make two rows of
stitches near together, though a single row of stitches only may be used to
each strip to be cut off. When fabrics made by sewing, as above described, are
to be used for producing woven piled fabrics, or for producing piled fabrics by
sewing or fastening chenille like fabrics side by side in parallel rows on a back
fabric, the chenille fabric produced, as above described, is to be cut up into strips
in such manner that one, two, or more rows of stitches produced by the sewing
machine are near the middle of each strip, the yarns protruding on either side
of such row or rows of stitches. In some cases a yarn or thread is introduced
between the two rows of stitches at or near the middle of each strip, in such
manner that such yarn is fastened to the fabric, and this is preferably done
by the use of one back thread or yarn to the two threads by which the two
rows of stitches of a strip are produced. For some purposes, in place of using
sewing machines to connect the sheet of yarns by parallel rows of stitches, the
requisite connection may be by suitable cement or adhesive matter applied in
parallel lines, in which case it is preferred to use a yarn or yarns fixed by
cement at the middle of each strip or part which is to be cut off.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Archibald Templeton and John Lawson in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 7th May 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, ARCHIBALD
TEMPLETON, of No. 7, Skinner Street, in the City of London, and JOHN
LAWSON, of Glasgow, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventh day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-third year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Archibald Templeton and John Lawson, Her special licence that we, the
said Archibald Templeton and John Lawson, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as we, the said Archibald Templeton and John

page_text: Lawson, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUPAC-
TURE OF CHENILLE OR LIKE FABRICS SUITABLE TO BE USED IN WOVEN AND OTHER
ORNAMENTAL PILED FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that we,
the said Archibald Templeton and John Lawson, our executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under our or their hands and seals, or
under the hand and seal of one of us or them, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Archibald Templeton and John Lawson,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement thereof, that is to say:―
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
chenille or like fabrics suitable to be used in woven and other ornamental
piled fabrics. For these purposes in place of making chenille or like fabrics
by cross or other weaving as heretofore, the yarns of worsted or other fibres
are laid side by side so as to form a sheet of unconnected yarns laid parallel to
cach other, and the several yarns so laid together in a sheet are then com-
bined or connected together by making parallel rows of stitches produced by
a sewing machine having several needles in such manner as to produce the
rows of parallel stitches simultaneously and transversely or at right angles to
the direction in which the yarns are laid, and such stitches may consist either
of tambour work, or they may be made by sewing machines where two threads
are used to each needle, one at the back and the other at the front of the
yarns.
It is preferred in carrying out this Invention to use sewing machines ar-
ranged to work with two threads to each needle, and to make two rows of
stitches near together, though a single row of stitches only may be used to
each strip to be cut off. When fabrics made by sewing as above described are
to be used for producing woven piled fabrics, or for producing piled fabrics by
sewing or fastening chenille-like fabrics side by side in paralled rows and back
fabric, the chenille fabric produced as above described is to be cut up into
strips in such manner that one, two, or more rows of stitches produced by

page_text: the sewing machine are near the middle of each strip, the yarns protruding on
either side of such row or row or rows of stitches. In some cases a yarn or
thread is introduced between the two rows of stitches at or near the middle of
each strip, in such manner that such yarn.is fastened to the fabric, and this is
preferably done by the use of one back thread or yarn to the two threads, by
which the two rows of stitches of a strip are produced.
For some purposes in place of using sewing machines to connect the sheet
of yarns or threads by parallel rows of stitches, the requisite connection may
be by suitable cement or adhesive matter applied in parallel lines, in which
case it is preferred to use a yarn or yarns fixed by cement at the middle of
each strip or part which is to be cut off.
And in order that our said Invention may be properly understood and
carried into effect, we have delineated upon the accompanying Sheet of
explanatory Drawings, and shall proceed to describe a modification of sewing
machine as adapted for making chenille according to our said Invention. The
same reference letters mark the same or like parts in all the Figures. Figure 1
is a front elevation of the machine, and Figure 2 is a corresponding side eleva-
tion; Figures 3, 4, and 5 will be herein-after more particularly referred to..
In this machine vertical needles are worked through the chenille material
from above in combination with circular needles below, according to a system
already in use in stitching machines. The upper vertical needles are fixed to
a horizontal bar A, being arranged at intervals corresponding to the widths of
chenille required, and for convenience alternately on opposite sides of the.
bar A. This bar A is formed with, or has fixed to it, one at each end, two
tubular lugs B fitted to slide on vertical guide spindles C fixed to the side
frames D. The bar A is made to reciprocate vertically by means of links E
jointed to it and to levers F fast on a horizontal shaft G running across the
machine. This shaft G is actuated by means of a lever H, the extremity of
which carries a pin or roller entered into a scroll groove formed in a
drum I fast on a horizontal shaft J, supported in bracket bearings K fixed
to one of the side frames D. The shaft J has fast on it a spur wheel L,
in gear with which there is a pinion M fast on the first motion shaft N.
This shaft N is carried in bracket bearings O fixed to the side frame D, and
carries the usual fast and loose pulleys P to receive a driving belt. The drum I
has fixed upon its end an eccentric pin Q, which by means of a link R causes
a bar S to reciprocate horizontally across the machine in grooves or guides pro-
vided for it. The bar S is formed with or has fixed to it two racks which gear
with pinions T fast on spindles, carrying the circular needles t. Between
these circular needles t and the vertical needles a on the bar A there is a

page_text: horizontal plate U, formed with suitable perforations for the passage of the
needles and threads. Over this bar U the chenille material slowly passes
horizontally, and in a direction indicated by the arrow transverse to the needle
bar A the threads or yarns constituting the chenille material being, however,
arranged parallel to this needle bar. The red line in Figure 1 represents the
chenille material upon the bar U. For the purpose of carrying and feeding
forward the chenille material the side frames D are formed with incline-sided
guide grooves V; these grooves receiving bars W, down upon which the ends
of the yarns are held by clamps X, or otherwise. The bars W are formed.
with racks on their under sides, a recess or groove being formed in the bottom
of each guide groove V to admit the rack. In gear with each rack there is a
pinion fast on each end of a horizontal shaft Y, running across the machine,
and this shaft has fast on one or on each end a ratchet wheel Z, which, at each
upward movement of the needle bar A, receives a small shift by means of a
catch worked by a link 6 from the lever F, and. so causes the sheet of chenille
material to be fed forward a determinate distance between each stitch in the
direction of the arrow. As the stitching and the consequent forward move-
ment of the sheet of chenille material proceeds the bars W are received and
supported upon brackets c, shown as partly broken away in Figure 2. In
preparing the material to be made into chenille the yarns are beamed as if to
serve as warps for ordinary. weaving. They are then drawn off the beam e,.
Figures 3 and 4, and being passed through a. reed f, to keep them regular,
have their ends fixed between a bar W and clamp X. Next a sufficient:
quantity to form a sheet for the machine being drawn off the beam e, the
second bar W and clamp X are applied, and the sheet is cut away between
the second clamp and the reed f. This sheet is then introduced into the
machine, the bars W being entered into the grooves V, as already described.
When the chenille is to be used in the manufacture of carpets, rugs, and
other pile fabrics, we prefer to use double upper or vertical needles in com-
bination with single circular needles or shuttles below. The double needles
may consist either of two separate needles placed as near together as is
required, or of a single stem, having two pointed branches, as shown in front
elevation in Figure 5, two threads being used in either case.
When the two
needles are carried through the chenille material the circular needle below
passes through the loops of both threads; or if a shuttle is used it is passed
through both loops. In working with the double needle we prefer to arrange
small cords or threads parallel to and between the two lines of stitches, and.
on the side of the chenille material next the circular needle or shuttle, so that
the action of the circular needle or shuttle may enclose the cords or threads..

page_text: If sufficient tension is applied to the circular needle or shuttle thread, it will
give the chenille fibres a tendency to close up, when the sheet is subsequently
cut into strips, thus facilitating its manufacture into carpets, rugs, or other
pile fabrics. If, however, the chenille is to be used in a twisted form, as in
the manufacture of shawls and similar articles, then we employ a single line of
stitches for each strip of chenille, and we prefer to combine with such line
of stitches a cord or thread, which is laid on the yarns parallel to the lines of
stitching, and is moved laterally between each stitch, and becomes fixed by
crossing and recrossing the line of the needle, thereby.strengthening the fabric.
This lateral movement is obtained by passing the several cords or threads
through a reed, which is made to reciprocate transversely. The machine may
be made to work with any convenient number of needles, or it may be con-
trived to work with only one (single or double) needle at a time.
With reference to the arrangement of the details of the stitching machinery
the kind of needles, shuttles, or bobbins, and the mechanical movements con-
nected therewith, we wish it to be distinctly understood that we do not restrict
ourselves to any one modification, as various modifications may be easily
adapted to the purposes of this Invention.
In working out the adhesive process for manufacturing chenille, comprised
in this Invention according to one modification, we use an arrangement of
apparatus somewhat resembling that herein-before described and delineated
upon the accompanying Sheet of Drawings. In place of the reciprocating
needle bar A, Figures 1 and 2, there is arranged a stationary bar carrying
instead of the needles a series of narrow rollers or pulleys, one for each strip
of chenille, to be made out of the material, prepared as already described for
the stitching process; provision is made for supplying the rims of these rollers
or pulleys with cement or adhesive matter (such as solution of caoutchouc),
which is impressed by them upon the yarns as the sheet of yarns is moved
through the machine. The lines of cement or adhesive matter thus formed
correspond to and answer the purpose of the lines of stitches in the other
process, connecting the previously loose yarns, and permitting the sheet to be.
cut into strips to be used as chenille. To assist in forming the back bone of:
the chenille, threads or cords are arranged to be laid upon and attached to the
yarns by means of the cement bearing rollers; or the cement may be applied.
to the cords or threads, the rollers in such case being used simply to press the
cords or threads upon the chenille material. If necessary heat may be applied
to insure the adherence of the cement to the yarns; or threads of caoutchouc.
or similar substance, alone or combined with fibrous cords or threads may be
employed, being made to adhere to the chenille material by means of the

page_text: rollers, aided, if necessary, by heat, as in the case of the stitching process, so
with the cementing process, the apparatus for manufacturing the chenille
by means of lines of cement or adhesive matter is susceptible of various
modifications.
Having thus particularly described our said Invention, we wish it to be
distinctly understood that what we claim is, the manufacture of chenille from
material previously formed into sheets by stitching or tambouring, or by the
application of cement, substantially as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, we, the said Archibald Templeton and John Lawson,
have hereunto set our hands and seals this Fifth day of May, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty.
ARCHP. TEMPLETON. (L.S.)
JOHN LAWSON.
(L.S.)