DIR MAMITRACTURE OR LOOPED FABRICS
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Daniel Scattergood, of Nottingham, Machine Builder,
and Robert Walker Smith, of Nottingham, Hosier, for the Invention of
DIR MAMITRACTURE OR LOOPED FABRICS."
Sealed the. 25th March 1859, and dated the 6th October 1858.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Daniel Scattergood and
Robert Walker Smith at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 6th October 1858.
We, DANIEL SCATTERGOOD, of Nottingham, Machine Builder, and ROBERT
WALKER SMITH, of Nottingham, Hosier, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF
LOOPED FABRICS," to be as follows:-
Our Invention has for its object the construction of straight hosiery frames
for making plain and ribbed selvage work, whereby more speed in working is
obtained than has heretofore been accomplished, and at the same time the
frame is less costly, and less liable to get out of order than the ordinary
hosiery frame.
In carrying out our Invention we use rotary motion, as is now usually done,
to give movement to the machinery. The needle bar is made movable, and
works in connection with a movable bar carrying hooks, each needle on the
needle bar going between each hook on the hook bar, thus in work causing the

page_text: hooks to act as sinkers. The presser bar is also movable, and has wire instru-
ments acting as pressers, one to each needle. The movable needle bar, movable
hook bar, and presser instruments act instead of the fixed needle bar, sinkers
and sinker bar, jacks and jack bars, presser bar and slee, and springs of the
ordinary hosiery frame. Instead of using jacks and jack sinkers to form the
loops, we employ loop wheels, one fixed on each side of a thread carrier, and
so arranged that one wheel is thrown out of work at each end of the frame,
the other being at the same time brought into operation. One wheel works
from the right-hand end of the frame to the left-hand end, and the other
works from the left-hand end of the frame to the right-hand end. In making
ribbed work, ribbed needles are fixed on the hook bar instead of hooks. The
other working parts of an ordinary frame are modified in their action to
suit the arrangements herein-before mentioned.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Daniel Scattergood and Robert Walker Smith in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 6th April 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, DANIEL
SCATTERGOOD, of Nottingham, Machine Builder, and ROBERT WALKER SMITH,
of Nottingham, Hosier, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-second year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Daniel Scattergood and Robert Walker Smith, Her special
licence that we, the said Daniel Scattergood and Robert Walker Smith, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Daniel
Scattergood and Robert Walker Smith, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and. Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED
FABRICS,' upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Daniel
Scattergood and Robert Walker Smith, or one of us, our executors or admi-
nistrators, by an instrument in writing under our, or their, or one of our or
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of

page_text: the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Daniel Scattergood and Robert
Walker Smith, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Drawings hereunto annexed, that is to say:-
Our Invention has for its object the construction of straight hosiery frames
for making plain and ribbed selvage work, whereby more speed in working is
obtained than has heretofore been accomplished, and at the same time the
frame is less costly and less liable to get out of order than the ordinary
hosiery frame.
In carrying out our Invention we use rotary motion, as is now usually done,
to give movement to the machinery. The needle bar is made movable, and
works in connection with a movable bar carrying hooks, each needle on the
needle bar going between each hook on the hook bar, thus in work causing
the hooks to act as sinkers. The presser bar is also movable, and has wire
instruments acting as pressers, one to each needle. The movable needle bar,
movable hook bar, and presser instruments act instead of the fixed needle bar,
sinkers and sinker bar, jacks and jack bar, presser bar and slee, and springs of
the ordinary hosiery frame. Instead of using jacks and jack sinkers to form
the loops, we employ loop wheels, one fixed on each side of a thread carrier,
and so arranged that one wheel is thrown out of work at each end of the
frame, the other being at the same time brought into operation. One wheel
works from the right-hand end of the frame to the left-hand end, and the other
works from the left-hand end of the frame to the right-hand end. In making
ribbed work, ribbed needles are fixed on the hook bar instead of hooks. The
other working parts of an ordinary frame are modified in their action to suit.
the arrangements herein-before mentioned.
Figure 1, Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings, is a front view of a
machine constructed according to this Invention, showing the combination of
the several parts used for making a plain looped fabric. Figure 2, Sheet 2;
is an end view of the same, partly in section. Figures 3 and 4 are plans of
the angular bar and sliding cam o'. Figure 5, Sheet 3, represents a portion.
of Figure 2, shewing one of the brackets carrying the rod to which the drivers
m are screwed, the bar i, on which the loop wheel slide bar j slides, the bar.
p', to which the thread carriers are screwed, the cock p, the lever p³, the
bracket o, and cam o', the needle lead and needle qg, and needle bar and plate

page_text: ', the sinker hook and lead r, the brass presser soldered to the hooks. In
this view only one loop wheel rod k¹, star and springs, are shewn. Figure 6 is
a front view of a pair of loop wheels, &c., in the position they will be seen
previous to the driver forcing the left wheel down and the right one up before
commencing a course to the right. Figure 7 is a plan and section respectively
of the left-hand loop wheel. Figure 8 is a plan of the right-hand loop wheel.
Figure 9, Sheet 4, is a front view of the frame, needle lead, and needles.
These needles are the same as those usually employed, except that they are
filed away a little underneath just where the beard sinks into the eye, thereby
causing the needles to spring or give way when they are pressed, whereby a
great number of needles are prevented from breaking at the head or bend.
Figure 10 is a front view of the sinker hooks and brass presser. Figure 11 is
a front and side view of a sinker hook and wire presser, which we sometimes
use instead of those shewn at Figure 10.
Outside the edge of every breadth of work, of whatever description and
gauge it may be, at a distance of three needles, a point about the length of a
needle is cast in a needle lead; this point ensures the loop wheel registering
right, as otherwise the loop wheel blades, instead of entering between the
needles, would be liable to strike upon the needles and break or bend them. The
outside needles of each breadth of work, that is, two needles to each breadth,
have a portion of solder or a bit of steel soldered on them, at or about the
distance of 1/8th of an inch from the point of the beard, between the beard
and lead. This steel is cast in, as shewn in Figure 5, Sheet 3, which prevents
the outside or selvage loop being made so large as it otherwise would be, and
causes a superior selvage to be turned by the needles. Figure 12 represents
the cam No. 1, which causes the bell-crank levers to lower the bars r¹,,
and hooks r, by acting upon the back of the levers, the
as required by springs screwed to the end castings.
cam No. 2; this cam moves the needle bar back, and also lowers the drivers
m on to the loop wheel rods. Figure 14 is a view of the cam No. 3, which
raises the thread carriers above the needles by pressing out the cock p from
either recess in the angular plate, the carriers being lowered by the cock being
forced in the recess by the sliding cam o¹. Figure 15 is a view of the drawing
cam which moves the loop wheel, sliding bar, and thread carriers.
hooks being held up
Figure 13 shews the
At Figure 1, Sheet 1, a, a, represents the two end castings connected by the
three longitudinal tye bars b, c, d; d' is a roller upon which the work is wound
as it is made; e is the handle shaft, having a fly wheel and fast and loose pulleys
at one end as shewn, also a cog wheelf gearing into another wheel 9 on the
cam shaft h; i is a bar carried by two brackets screwed on the inner side of

page_text: the end castings; on this bar, and in front thereof, the loop wheel slide bar j
slides, to which are screwed as many brackets as there are breadths of work
to be made in the machine; each bracket carries a pair of loop wheels, attached
to the rods k, k¹, by set screws, there being a left-handed and a right-handed
loop wheel to each pair (see Figures 5 and 6, Sheet 3); the rods are held in
their places by springs, one rod being raised and the other depressed alter-
nately by the drivers m, which are screwed to a spindle bar m³, held in three
bearings at the back of the tye bar b; the loops wheel rods are fitted with
springs as shewn; near each end of the bar j, bearings are screwed carrying
the trucks n, which support the slide bar as it slides to the right or left; there
is also screwed at the right-hand end of the bar j, at the top thereof, a
bracket o, carrying a cam o', which forces the cock p into a recess cut in the
angle bar at the back of the bar i, at each end of the length it slides, the
cock being screwed to the carrier rod p¹, to which the thread carriers p³ are
screwed; this will cause the carriers to lower the thread below the needles at
the end of each course, and thus leave room for the loop wheels to pass the
carriers, whereby the carriers are enabled to pass over the needles first, and
lay the thread for the loop wheels on the return course, the carriers being
raised for that purpose by a lever moved by the cam 3 striking the lever p³,
thereby knocking out the cock and leaving the carriers raised. The carrier
rod p¹ is held in bearings screwed to the front lower side of the slide j; q, q, are
the frame needles, held on the needle bar q¹ by plates in the usual way; this
bar is free to move horizontally, and is connected to the spindle bar q² by a:
bracket and lever near each end of the machine, where it is supported by and.
rocks upon five steel pins q³, which work in steel cups let into the under side
of the needle bar, and in cup-ended steel screws through the tye bar c.
r, r, are the leads in which the sinker hooks are cast; a piece of brass, having
saw-gates cut in it the same distance as the hooks, is soldered on the top of
the hooks; this brass piece is for pressing the work instead of using a separate
presser bar, the hook leads are screwed to the sinker bar r', attached to levers
connected with a bell-crank lever at either end of the machine; the brackets
are also screwed to a tye bar, and to this bar at the back are also screwed
the brackets and set screws attached to the upper end of the sinker bar 11.
The tye bar c is supported near the middle by a prop screwed to the lower
tye bar d, which bar also carries a centre bearing for the cam shaft; it also
carries a bearing for the drawing cam 4, which moves the levers 8, 8, 8, the
lower end of s turning on a pin in the arm in the under side of the lower tye
bar; the upper end clasps a bracket screwed to the back of the slide bar j,
and is free to rise or fall on the said bracket, whereby the slide loop wheels

page_text: and thread carriers are moved as required by the cam 4, which has a wheel
s on the same axis, which is driven by a smaller wheel on the same shaft in
the usual way.
When a plain looped fabric is to be made, the action of the machine is as
follows: The loop wheels as shewn represent the position they assume when
a course is finished. To make the next course the drivers are lowered by the
cam 2 at the same time as the needle bar is drawn back, the thread carriers
are raised up above the needles by the cam 3, to such a height that the thread
may just lie upon the needles; the drawing cam 4 then moves the loop wheel
slide bar to the right the length required, following the thread carriers, thereby
forming loops between the needles, and putting the said loops under the
beards of the needles; the carriers fall lower than the needles at the end of
the course, to allow the loop wheels to pass them; the sinker hooks then
rise, being forced up by the springs acting upon the bell-crank levers, the
needle bar is drawn back, and when about half way, the sinker hooks rise
a short distance, and then fall down to press the needle. While the needles
are being pressed, they go back a little further to land the work on to the
needle beards; the hooks now rise again to knock the work over, the needles
being at the same time taken quite back, the hooks fall, and as the needles
again advance, they prevent the work coming forward, the loop wheels having
been reversed at the time the needles were taken back, and the thread
carriers having been lowered just before; these operations complete a course,
and the whole of the parts of the machine is in proper position to make the
return course, the movements being the same.
Figure 16, Sheet 5, is a partial end view representing the position of the
several parts of a machine or apparatus used in addition to or instead of that
before described for making a ribbed loop fabric. To this machine a presser
bar and brackets with two levers and cams moving the same, a slide bar, and
a point bar, are added.
Figure 17, Sheet 6, is a view of the cam No. 1; the machine is held up by
the springs on the bell-crank levers, the cams cause it to fall while the work
is drawn over the machine needles, the machine is raised to put down the
tumblers, and falls to be cleared from the loop wheels; Figure 18 shews the
needle bar cam No. 2, which draws the needle bar back, and also lowers the
drivers on to the loop wheel rods; Figure 19 is a view of cam No. 3, which
draws the presser wires backwards at the same time as the needle bar is
retiring to land the work on the frame needle beards, and as the needles are
brought forward again the presser wires rise up while they are back, and
then fall down to give room for the loop wheel to lay the thread; Figure 20

page_text: shews cam No. 4; this cam causes the presser wires to rise and fall. Figure 21
shews cam No. 5%; this cam throws the slide up as the machine needles
descend. The drawing cam is the same as that shewn at Figure 15, Sheet 4,
and moves the slide bar of the loop wheels and the thread carriers. Figure 22
is a plan of part of the hand slide used when a slack course is being made,
there being a similar plate to each pair of loop wheels; Figure 22* is an end
view of the same; this bar lies in front of the loop wheels, and has pieces
rivetted to it which slide under first one star wheel, then the other, when a
welt is being made, by which means the loop wheels do not dip so deep
between the needles; the bar is simply held by the pieces a, which are slotted,
and a screw passes through each slot into the brackets which carry the loop
wheel rods. Figure 23 is a front view of a lead of the presser wires C;
Figure 24 is a similar view of the frame needle and lead D; and Figure 25
is a front view of the machine needles and lead E.
The needles we prefer using are Townshend's patent needles, but other
needles can be employed.
Figure 26, Sheet 6, is a front view of part of the slide B, which knocks
over the machine course; and Figure 27 is a front view of part of the points
which knock over the frame course.
When a ribbed loop fabric is to be made, the action of the machine is as
follows: The cam shaft to this machine moves in the reverse direction to the
other by means of two five-inch wheels, one upon the handle shaft, the other
gearing into it, and a wheel upon one end of the cam shaft. The carriers lay a
thread on the needles, the loop wheels follow, forming the loops, and passing
them under the beards of the needles. The carrier falls below the needles to
allow the loop wheels to pass them, the machine needles rise at the same
time the presser wires ascend, and come forward to land the work on the
frame needle beards, the machine needles then fall, and at the same time
the presser wires and frame needles go back, the slide rising up and forcing
the work over the machine needle heads, the thread carriers then rise, the
work being knocked over the frame needle heads by the points (see Fig. 27).
A course being finished, the above movements are repeated for another
course.
And having now described the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, we declare that we claim,―
First, the machinery herein-before described, and illustrated in the accom-
panying Drawings, for making plain or ribbed looped fabrics, the same being
capable of being adapted to make other fancy or ornamental work.
Second, the employment of frame needles having their lower parts filed or

page_text: cut away to cause them to give or spring when pressed, as herein-before
described and illustrated in, the accompanying Drawings.
And, third, the employment of loop wheels in pairs, one pair to make the
right-hand course, and the other the left, the same wheels being capable of
being reversed by the drivers, as herein-before described and illustrated in
the accompanying Drawings..
:
In witness whereof, we, the said Daniel Scattergood and Robert Walker
Smith, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Fourth day of
April, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine.
DANIEL SCATTERGOOD.
(L.S.)
ROBERT WALKER SMITH. (L.S.)