Improvements in Machinery for Finishing Seamed Edges of Leather Goods, commonly called Beading Machines.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 17th Mar., 1899-Accepted, 13th May, 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machinery for Finishing Seamed Edges of Leather
Goods, commonly called Beading Machines.
I, NEWNHAM BROWNE, of 73, Cheapside, in the City of London, Fellow of the
Chartered Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, which has been communicated
to me by Quentin Woodbury Booth and Irving Edward Booth, both residing and
doing business in the City of Rochester, County of Monroe, and State of New
York, United States of America, Shoe-machinery Manufacturers, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:―
This invention consists in certain improvements upon the wellknown machines
the object of which is to finish seamed edges, and particularly the seamed edges
of shoe uppers which are sewn wrong side out, such machines being usually
called "beading machines." Such machines ordinarily comprise two necessary
and cooperating elements, to wit, first, one or more rapidly moving turning irons
or blades, or turners," the function of which is to turn the lined seam with
the right side out, and to smooth out and stretch the same, the latter function being
particularly important in the case of the scalloped button flies of ladies' and misses'
shoes; and, second, a hammer which flattens out the turned seam, and which may
operate upon one portion of the seam while another portion thereof is being
turned.
The present improvements consist, first, in applying fixed finger rests in
cooperative relation to the movable turning blade or blades, in order to protect
the fingers of the operator: As is wellknown, in the operation of machines of this
character, the seam to be turned is held in the hands of the operator, and is pushed
down over the moving turners; and when the turners are pushing upon the same,
the fingers of the operator press upon the material just outside of the turners.
Now, owing to the great rapidity with which the turners move, (1200 to 1500
vibrations a minute), two difficulties ensue, first, the operator finds it difficult
when smoothing the material upon the turners to do so, because the turners are
constantly and rapidly moving the material; and, second, the rapid movement of
the turners moves the fingers of the operator rapidly, straining and jarring the
nerves. The improved stationary finger rests, however, lie flatly against the outer
faces of the movable turners so as to enter between the material and lining together
with the turners; their upper edges are wholly below the working edges of
the turners at all times, so that they do not interfere with the operation of the
turners the width of the upper ends of the finger-rests is less than the width of
the working ends of the turners and in the operation of the machine the fingers
of the operator press entirely against these stationary finger-rests, so that the
turning is effectively accomplished without pressing the fingers against the rapidly
moving turners.
A further improvement consists in the means for adjusting the anvil, or fixed
jaw of the hammer.
-oment consists in the construction of the anvil.

page_text: Further improvements consist in structural details hereinafter particularly set
forth and claimed.
The present improvements are shown in the accompanying drawings, in what are
now considered their best embodiments, in which drawings,
,
Figure 1, is a front view of the machine. Fig. 2, is a side view thereof, partly
broken away to show the interior construction. Figs. 3, and 4, are detail views
of the finger rests. Fig. 5, is a horizontal section in a plane indicated by the
line 5-5 in Fig. 2. Fig. 6, is a face view of the turners with the front plate of the
machine removed. Fig. 7, is a plan view of the hammer. Fig. 8, is a vertical
section of the hammer. Fig. 9, is a section in the plane indicated by the line 9-9
in Fig. S. Fig. 10, is a detail view illustrating the adjustable pivot for the
circularly moving turner: Fig. 11, is a cross-section in the plane indicated by the
line 11-11 in Fig. 6.
Figs. 12 to 17, illustrate a modified form of the machine; Fig. 12, being a side
view partly broken away to show the interior construction; Fig. 13, a plan view
of the head of the machine; Fig. 14, a rear view of the head; Fig. 15, a vertical
cross-section in a plane indicated by the line 15-15 in Fig. 13; Fig. 16, a sectional
detail and Fig. 17, a central vertical section of the head.
Referring first to the construction shown in Figs. 1 to 11, A, is the base-plate
of the machine, and B, is the housing mounted thereupon which supports the
operative parts of the machine. The housing is open at its bottom where it rests
upon the base-plate so that by detaching it from the base plate its interior is readily
accessible for cleaning, repairing, etc. To enable the interior of the housing to
be readily accessible, the housing is secured to the base-plate by lugs a, b, on
opposite sides of the housing, and lugs c, c, on one side of the base-plate, and a
thumb-screw d, on the opposite side of the base-plate. The lugs a, a, of the housing
fit beneath the lugs c, c, on the base-plate, and the thumb screw d, of the base-
plate screws down upon the lug b, on the housing. To detach the housing it is
only necessary to manipulate the set screw d. As a matter of convenience in manu-
facturing, the lugs c, c, are formed as screws; but their function is that of stationary
lugs only. Ribs e, e, ou the base-plate between which the housing rests, prevent
to and fro movement of the housing upon the base plate. The rear rib e, divides
the base-plate into two sections, a forward section and a rearward section. The
housing seats upon the forward section between the two ribs e, e. The face-
plate C, of the housing is simply screwed to the housing so that it can be readily
removed to render accessible the parts covered by it.
The main drive shaft D, of the machine, is suitably journalled in the housing,
and extends horizontally from front to rear. The drive shaft extends rearwardly
through the rear wall of the housing out over the rearward section of the base-
plate where it carries a driving pulley f, around which passes the drive belt, said
belt extending downwardly through slots g, g, in the rearward section of the base-
plate B. It likewise has an eccentric h, which operates the hammer; an eccentric
or cam i, for the rear turner E, and a crank pin or eccentric j, for the second or
front turner F.
Both turners E, F, are flat blades or irons having their working ends lying
flatly face to face.
The rear turner E, is pivoted by pivot k, directly to the housing and its lower
end is held against the periphery of eccentric or cam i, by the coiled spring 1. The
eccentric or cam i has three rises, so that the turner executes three lateral oscilla-
tions in its own plane during each rotation of the drive shaft D.
The working end of the front turner F. executes a circular movement, that is to
say, it moves both laterally and vertically. It is pivoted at its middle, and at
its lower end it is connected with the crank pin j. The pivot for the turner F, is
vertically adjustable so as to vary the extent of its movement. The turner F, has
a longitudinal slot m, within which fits and slides the pivot block n.
This pivot
block n, turns upon a stud o, carried by a vertically movable slide p, which slides
vertically in vertical ways, in the face plate C. A pin r, on the front of the

page_text: slide p, extends through a vertical slot s, in the face plate, and is maintained in
place by a washer t, and wing-nut u. The turner F, performs one of its circular
movements for one rotation of the drive shaft D. The two turners E, F, are so
located with reference to each other that the turner F, moves up and down above
and below the arc in which the working edge of the turner E, travels, and the
working side edges of the two turners move past each other. Hence by the con-
joint action of the two turners they push out and spread the seam.
G, and H, are the finger rests, which are secured at their lower ends to the
housing B, and face plate C. These finger rests are thin flat pieces of rigid stiff
metal, such as steel. One finger rest, G, is outside of, in front of, adjacent to, and
lies face to face with, the front turner F; while the second finger rest H, is outside
of, back of, adjacent to, and lies face to face with, the rear turner E. The width
of the upper end of each finger rest is less than the width of the working ends of
the adjacent turner, as is clearly shown in Figs. 3, and 4. The upper ends of
the finger rests are arranged relatively to the upper or working ends of the turners,
as shown in Figs. 3, and 4, so as not to interfere with the proper working thereof.
The upper edges of both finger rests are always below the upper edges of both of
the turners, so that when the circularly moving turner F, occupies its lowermost
position, its upper edge is still above the upper edge of the adjacent finger-rest.
Likewise the lateral edges of the upper ends of the finger rests are always within
the lateral edges of the working ends of the turners, that is to say, the lateral edges
of the finger rests are nearer to the central line of oscillation of the turners than
the lateral edges of the working ends of the turners ever are. This is clearly
shown in Figs. 3 and 4, which show in full and dotted lines the different positions
of the turners. Consequently the presence of the finger rests in no way interferes
with the normal and proper operation of the turners, and they themselves perform
their intended object of enabling the fingers of the operator to hold the material
steadily and without subjecting the fingers of the operator to incessant vibration.
I, is the movable jaw of the hammer, and J, is the anvil or stationary jaw
therefor. The movable jaw I, is in front of the anvil, and the opposing faces of the
jaw and anvil are approximately vertical. The hammer jaws are arranged at one
side of the working ends of the turners; the working faces of the jaws are at the
same height as the working ends of the turners; and the mouth between the jaws
is in the same plane as that in which the turners reciprocate. Consequently when
one portion of the material is being operated upon by the turners another previously
turned portion of the same material is between the jaws and being hammered
smooth thereby.
The movable jaw I, is one arm of a bell crank lever which is pivoted upon a
pintle v, turning at opposite ends in slotted bushed clamp bearings w, w, on the
housing B. The other arm of the bell crank lever is connected by a ball and
socket joint r, to the upper end of a pitman K, which at its lower end has a strap y,
embracing the eccentric h, on the drive shaft D. Consequently the movable jaw I,
is oscillated rapidly back and forth through a small are.
To prevent the hand or arm of the operator coming accidentally into contact
with the rapidly vibrating movable jaw, a skeleton-guard L, is provided therefor.
This guard L, is in the form of a yoke screwed at its top to the underside of the
bearings w, w; extending along the sides and beneath the moving bottom of the
movable jaw; and wide enough so that it extends as far (or farther) front as the
jaw can move, and not extending back far enough to interfere with the material
passing between the jaws.
The anvil or stationary jaw is a cushioned anvil so as to receive the concussion
of the movable jaw when the material is being hammered, thus minimizing jar and
noise. It is to be noted that when the material is not between the jaws they do
not quite touch each other. The anvil is also adjustable to and from the movable
jaw for the purpose of taking up wear on the jaws, anvil, and cushions; and of
adapting the jaw and anvil to materials or seams of varying thicknesses. The
construction is as follows:-

page_text: The anvil J, has ears z, z, whereby it is pivotally suspended upon the pintle
so that it is concentric with the movable jaw, whereby the adjustment of the anvil
is angular with reference to the movable jaw, and hence their opposing faces when
brought into contact are always radial, irrespective of the extent of adjustment
of the anvil. M, is a swinging lever pivoted at N, to the housing back of the
anvil. At its lower end the lever M, has an aperture O, through which
passes a post or stud-bolt P, fixed to the housing; said stud-bolt having lock
nuts Q, Q, in front of and behind the lever M, so that said lever may be securely
locked into whatever position it may be moved. The lever M, is yieldingly con-
nected to the anvil by a stem consisting of a stud-bolt R, screwing into the anvil,
Between the anvil and 1
and passing freely through a slot S, in the lever.
lever the stem R, has a collar T, screwed and movable thereupon; and at its rear
end the stud-bolt has a second collar or head U, which is preferably in one there-
with. Surrounding the stem R, are two elastic cushions V, W, (of rubber or other
suitable material), the cushion V, being located between the collar T, and lever M,
and the other cushion W, being located between the lever M, and the head U. By
swinging the lever M, forward and back, (by manipulating the lock nuts Q,Q) the
anvil can be adjusted to and from the movable jaw. The cushion V. takes up the
concussion on the anvil. The cushion W, takes up the back lash," and, con-
jointly with the cushion V, maintains the anvil in its adjusted position. Wear
on both cushions can be taken up by adjusting the movable collar T, on the stem R.
In case no adjustment by means of the post P, is desired, the lever M, need not
be pivoted, and in such event it constitutes simply an intermediate support for the
two cushions V, W.
To prevent the material being smeared with oil, drip cups X, X, are provided
which are secured in place beneath the bearings w, w.
The improved finger rests are shown as used with two turners one of which
has a lateral movement and the other a circular or combined vertical and lateral
movement and such arrangement is deemed the best. The finger rests can however
be used when the turners have other movements known in the art.
For example, there may be but a single movable turner, and it may move
laterally or circularly, or both laterally and vertically.
Or again, both turners may be movable and each or both may move either
laterally or circularly, or both laterally and vertically.
Or again, one turner may be stationary, and the other may move either laterally
or circularly, or both laterally and vertically.
In any event the finger rests are arranged as already stated so as to be entirely
below and within the movement of the working edges of the turners.
In case only one turner is employed and that a movable one, and in case both
turners are movable, two of the finger rests are employed; but in case one of
the turners is stationary, only one finger rest is necessary, and that is outside of,
and adjacent to, the outer face of the movable turner.
It is obvious that ribs or flanges may replace the lugs a, b, and c, since in such
event the lugs would represent portions of the ribs or flanges.
Figs. 12 to 17, inclusive, illustrate a modified construction of the beading
machine and particularly of the anvil. Fig. 12, shows the housing B, detached
from the base plate; this housing being, however, adapted to be seated upon a
base plate in the same way as in the construction shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 5.
The turners E, and F, are, or may be, just like the turners shown in Figs. 1, 2,
and 6, but as shown in Fig. 12, they may be used without the finger rests G, and H.
As shown in Fig. 12, the movable jaw I, and anvil J, have a different location
with reference to the turners than in the case of the construction shown in
Figs. 1 and 2. As shown in Fig. 12, the jaw and anvil are not arranged along side
the turners, so that they cannot be hammering upon one portion of the seam
another portion of which being simultaneously operated upon by the turners.
Likewise, as shown in Fig. 12, the cooperating faces of the movable jaw and anvil
instead of being substantially vertical are arranged at an incline. Otherwise the

page_text: ovable jaw is arranged and operated in substantially the sûmê männer às in
he construction shown in Figs. 1, 2, 7 and 8, being connected by a universal
binta, to the upper end of a pitman K, which at its lower end is operatively
onnected with the drive-shaft D.
As shown in Figs. 15, and 17, the jaw I, is pivotally mounted between vertically
xtending ears 20, 20, which are integral parts of the upright standard or head 21,
onstituting an integral portion of the housing B.
Within these two projecting ears are carried brass bushes 22, 22, respectively,
which are held in place by means of screws 23, 23, which tap through the upper
portions of the ears 20. The movable jaw I, is secured by set screw 24, to a
horizontal jaw shaft 25, which extends through and rocks in the brass bushes 22.
The anvil J, which is a movable one, is forked at its rear and upper end, as best
shown in Fig. 13, and is formed with tubular sleeves or journals 26, 26, which
straddle the ears 20, of the hammer head and surround and embrace the outwardly
projecting ends of the brass bushes 22, upon which they rock, said projecting
bushes constituting the journal bearings upon which said anvil swings. It will
be noted on reference to Fig. 15, that the jaw shaft 25, extends outwardly as far
as do the brass bushes, so as to afford a support for their projecting ends. By
will be noted that the anvil when it moves swings
virtue of this construction
on the same axis as does the movable jaw, so that no matter how the anvil is
adjusted the movable jaw has the same relation thereto. It is not essential that the
anvil be pivoted about the same center as the hammer jaw but such construction
is preferred.
The anvil is cushioned in both directions by means of independently adjustable
coiled springs 27 and 28. The coiled spring 27, is located between the under side
of the anvil and a tension regulating bolt, 29. This bolt 29, taps into the head 21,
and is locked in any desired position of adjustment by means of a lock nut 30.
The spring 27, seats at its upper end within a recess 31, on the under side of the
anvil and at its opposite lower end it seats against a loose ring 32, which in turn
seats against the head 33, of the adjusting bolt 29, and is held in place by a
projecting boss 34, on said bolt which also serves to maintain said spring 27, in
position. The adjusting bolt 29, and the spring 27, are so arranged as to be
substantially perpendicular to the outer working face of the anvil J, so that the
outward thrust of said spring against the under side of said anvil is substantially
at right angles to said working face so that said spring tends to force the anvil
toward the movable jaw, and said spring directly opposes the stroke and impact of
the movable jaw.
The anvil has an integral crank arm 35, extending at substantially right angles
to the working face of the anvil and which cooperates with the other cushioning
spring 28. This crank arm carries at its outer end a socket 36, a coss-section of
which is shown in Fig. 16, and in which socket the spring 28 seats. This socket
is interiorly screw-threaded as shown in Fig. 16, and in it fits an adjusting
screw 37, which can be turned in and out, being provided with a nick 38, for this
purpose adapting it to be turned by a screw-driver. This adjusting screw 37, can
5 be clamped in any position of adjustment, the socket 36, being, for this purpose,
elit along one side as shown at 39, and being provided with outwardly projecting
ears 40, with which a bolt 41, and nut 42, cooperate. By means of said bolt and
nut the socket may be clamped tightly upon the adjusting screw as desired
so as to hold it in position. The outer end of the spring 28, seats against the
inner face of the adjusting screw 37, surrounding a projecting boss 43, on the inner
face of said screw which assists in keeping the spring 28, in position. The other
end of the spring 28, seats against the rear surface of a stop or abutment 44,
which might be an integral portion of the head 21, but, as shown, is a separate
piece therefrom rigidly secured thereto by bolt 45, and nut 46. The spring 28,
65 presses outwardly upon the crank arm 35, of the anvil in a direction substantially
at right angles to the direction of the thrust of the other spring 27, and in
opposition thereto. The tension of spring 28, is regulated by the adjusting

page_text: screw 37. The position of the crank arm 35, is not necessarily at right angles
to the face of the anvil, as it could be in any position about the center around
which the anvil pivots, the abutment 44, being correspondingly located.
It will be noted that the two springs 27, 28, oppose each other, and both are
adjustable independently and at will. The spring 27, resists the impact of the
hammer, and the other spring maintains an initial strain on the spring 27. By
suitably adjusting both springs the position of the anvil when the machine is at
rest can be adjusted, so that the minimum space between it and the opposing
working face of the movable jaw (that is, the space when the jaw most nearly
approaches the anvil) can be adjusted and regulated at will thereby adapting the
hammer to operate upon materials of different thicknesses. By suitable adjust-
ment of both springs the anvil may be made more or less yielding, as desired,
and compensation for wear is readily obtained. When the hammer is in operation,
the two springs cushion the anvil against the blows of the hammer, and take up
the "back-lash." This construction also renders the hammer almost noiseless
while in operation. The cushioning springs are comparatively stiff, thereby
affording a substantial support for the anvil, and hold the anvil to its work so
that an efficient blow may be given to the seam which is being beaten, but at the
same time the blow upon the seam is rendered elastic so that there is no danger of
crushing or abrading the seam.
It is obvious that this same cushioning arrangement for the anvil could be used
in case its working surface was arranged substantially vertical as in the case
of the arrangement shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 8.
The interposition of the bushes 22, 22, between the anvil journals 26, 26, and the
hammer rock-shaft, is important because the bushes not only thus constitute
journal bearings for both hammer-jaw and anvil, but also they relieve the hammer-
shaft from the stress of the cushioning springs, thus diminishing the power required
to move the hammer-jaw, and relieving the hammer-shaft from wear.
The movable jaw is surrounded by the usual jaw-guard, L.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. A laterally moving turner, in combination with a fixed finger rest adjacent
thereto, the upper edge of said finger rest being below the upper edge of said
turner, and the end of said finger rest being of a width less than the width of the
working end of said turner, substantially as set forth.
2. A vertically and laterally moving turner, in combination with a fixed finger
rest adjacent thereto, the upper edge of said finger rest being at all times below
the upper edge of said turner, and the end of said finger rest being of a width
less than the width of the working end of said turner, substantially as set forth.
3. Two movable turners, in combination with two fixed finger rests outside of
said turners on opposite faces thereof, the upper edges of said finger rests being
below the upper edges of said turners, substantially as set forth.
4. A laterally swinging turner, and a circularly moving turner, said turners
lying face to face, in combination with two finger rests, one being in front of the
circularly moving turner, lying face to face therewith, and having its upper edge
at all times below the upper edge of said turner and its side edges at all times
within the said edges of the working end of said turner, and the other of said
finger rests being back of said laterally swinging turner, lying face to face there-
with, and having its upper edge below the upper edge of said turner, and its side
edges at all times within the side edges of said turner, substantially as set forth.
5. A swinging movable jaw, in combination with a pivoted anvil adjustable to
and from said niovable jaw, said anvil being pivoted concentrically with said jaw,
substantially as set forth.
6. A swinging movable jaw, in combination with a cushioned adjustable anvil
pivoted concentrically with said jaw, substantially as set forth.

page_text: 7. A movable jaw, in combination with a cushioned pivoted anvil, substantially
as set forth.
8. The movable jaw, and the pivoted anvil, in combination with the cushion
support consisting of the slotted pivoted lever, a fixed post having lock nuts for
locking said lever in different positions, a stem secured to said anvil and extending
through the slot in said cushion support, said stem having two collars on opposite
sides of said cushion support, one of said collars at least being lengthwise adjust-
able on said stem, and two elastic cushions between said cushion support and said
collars respectively, substantially as set forth.
9. The movable jaw, and the movable anvil, in combination with the adjustable
lever, and an elastic connection between said lever and anvil, substantially as set
forth.
10. The movable jaw, and the movable anvil, in combination with a stem on
said anvil, two collars on said stem, and two elastic cushions between said collars
respectively and an intermediate cushion support, substantially as set forth.
11. The movable jaw, and the movable anvil, in combination with a cushion
support, a stem on the anvil extending through said cushion support, a head or
collar on the end of said stem, and two elastic cushions, one between said cushion
support and the head of said stem, and the other between said cushion support
and the anvil, substantially as set forth.
12. The combination of a moving turner, a hammer having an outer movable
jaw, said hammer being alongside said turner so that said turner and hammer
may operate upon the same upper simultaneously, a jaw-guard for said movable
jaw said jaw-guard extending forwardly beyond the extreme outward movement
of any part of the movable jaw, and means for rapidly moving said turner and
jaw, substantially as set forth.
13. The improved anvil illustrated in Figs. 12 to 17, inclusive, cushioned in
opposite directions by opposing cushions.
14. The improved pivoted anvil illustrated in Figs. 12 to 17, inclusive, having
one elastic cushion which resists the impact of the movable hammer jaw, and a
second elastic cushion which maintains an initial strain on the first cushion.
15. The improved anvil illustrated in Figs. 12 to 17 inclusive, cushioned in
opposite directions by independently adjustable opposing cushioning springs.
16. The improved hammer illustrated in Figs. 12 to 17, inclusive, comprising
the cushioned anvil, the movable hammer jaw, and the bushings interposed
between the anvil journals and the jaw shaft, thereby constituting journal bearings
for both anvil and jaw, and at the same time relieving the jaw shaft from the
stress of the anvil cushioning means.
17. The improvements in machinery for finishing seamed edges of leather
goods, commonly called beading machines, substantially as hereinbefore described
with reference to the accompanying drawings Figs. 1 to 11 inclusive.
18. The improvements in machinery for finishing seamed edges of leather goods,
commonly called beading machines, substantially as hereinbefore described with
reference to the accompanying drawings Figs. 12 to 17 inclusive.
19. The improved mechanism for finishing seamed edges of leather goods, sub-
stantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated.
1 1000