Year: 1885

page_text: We, REUBEN ALEXANDER MATTHEWS, and WILLIAM BIRKS, both of the Town,
and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturers, do hereby declare
the nature of this Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our said Invention relates to the manufacture of fabrics, on bobbin net or twist
lace machines and it has for its object the production of a fabric formed by &
combination of "embossed gimping" and "terry or raised pile," work in conjunc-
tion, either with or without the usual "gimpings" or "finings" made on twist lace,
(Leavers or Curtain) machines.
The introduction into lace patterns of the aforesaid "gimping" and "terry" or
pile work produces a novel pleasing and ornamental effect whilst a great variety
and contrast may be obtained in the patterns or designs produced in such fabrics.
And in order that our said Invention and the manner of performing the same
may be properly understood we hereunto append a sheet of explanatory drawings
to be hereinafter referred to in which there is delineated by way of diagrams
several ways of carrying out our Invention. These diagrams merely show the
method of obtaining embossed gimping and raised pile and have no reference to
the pattern of the fabric.
Figure, 1, on the accompanying sheet of drawings is a diagram showing one way
of carrying our Invention into effect and a cut for pattern surfaces is shown beside
it. The diagram shews the way in which the bars are worked to place the
"embossed gimps" in the fabric the gimps being held in position by "lacing"
and "bobbin" threads the "lacing" threads being removed after dressing in a well
known manner.
On referring to the diagram it will be seen that the "embossed
gimps" are thrown over any requisite number of carriages required for the forma-
tion of a desired pattern. In all the diagrams, the bobbin threads are marked by
the letter, a, the gimping threads by, b, and the lacing threads by, c.
In the
diagrams shown in Figure, 1, the bar is shown as throwing the "gimping" thread, b,
from, 0, to, 4, thence to, 5, where it is tied by the bobbin threads, a, and then back
to, O. The other thread, b, starting at, 6, is thrown to, 1, thence to, 2, being now
tied by the bobbin thread, a, it is thrown back to, 6, where it is tied by a "lacing"

page_text: thread, c, in a well known manner. On removing the "lacing" threads, c, the
gimps formed by the herein described method is liberated and produces a raised
ornamental effect. Figures, 2, and, 3, also show ways in which the embossed
"gimpings" are worked and held in position by lacing threads.
The remaining diagrams on the accompanying sheet of drawings, Figures 4, 5, 6,
7, and 8 shew five different ways of working the bars to produce the Terry or
raised pile work. When forming the "pile" the threads are thrown when the
carriages are at the back of the machine and the threads are tied in by the bobbins
when the carriages are in front of the machine, thus forming the pile the reverse
way to tying in. The lacing threads are placed in front of the pile threads and
are moved either to the right or the left at the time when the pile threads are
standing still as shown in the above named figures. In some cases fast "lacing'
threads (that is "lacing" threads attached to some part of the machinery or its
fittings) may be used which would allow the pile to slip off them in the course of
working.
We are aware that raised pile work has been made on lace machines before but
not in the manner herein described and delineated. We employ one or more pile
threads to every carriage thread or to every alternate carriage thread according to
the density of the pile required which threads are in addition to the warp threads
and are passed through independent top bars. Cuts of pattern surfaces for these
bars and their accompanying "lacing" threads are also shown in the drawings.
These cuts will also produce the terry or raised pile work without the lacing
threads but not so uniform and regular.
For making wide widths under this part of our Invention we employ bottom.
bars to actuate the lacing threads which threads are passed through a stump bar
or its equivalent and the threads for formning the pile work are put upon spools or
if requisite can be put on one or more beams and lingoes used to take up the slack
thread when it is not required for the pile. These threads are passed through one
(or more) perforated half (or quarter) bar according to the density of pile required,
these bars being placed between the bars carrying the lacing threads and the bars
carrying the warp threads. These perforated half (or quarter) bars are actuated
by suitable pattern surface in such a manner as to place the threads in any
position shown in any of the hereinbefore mentioned cuts relating to this part of
our Invention.
i
If required the "embossed gimping" and the "terry or raised pile" can be put
on the back of the fabric in which case the bars will work on reverse motions.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is
The production on bobbin net or twist lace machines of a fabric having "embossed
gimping" and "terry" or raised pile work substantially as herein before described
with reference to the accompanying drawings.