A NEW OR IMPROVED METHOD OF MANUFACTURING OR KNITTING STOCKINGS, Socks, GLOVES, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING THE SAME, THE LATTER BEING APPLICABLE FOR MANUFACTURING OTHER ARTICLES OF HOSIERY
Year: 1885

page_text: Apparatus for Enecting the same, the, latter being Applicable
for Manufacturing other Articles of Hosiery.
I WILLIAM ROTHWELL of 1, 3, and 5 Market Street, Bolton in the County of
Lancaster, Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention for "A NEW
OR IMPROVED METHOD OF MANUFACTURING OR KNITTING STOCKINGS, Socks,
GLOVES, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING THE
SAME, THE LATTER BEING APPLICABLE FOR MANUFACTURING OTHER ARTICLES OF
HOSIERY," to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a new or improved method of manufacturing or
knitting Stockings, Socks, Gloves, and other similar articles whereby the whole
operation of knitting is performed entirely in what is known as the "Lamb" or
flat web knitting machine, by which the old process of dropping out Stockings,
Socks, Gloves, and other articles, being knitted to be transferred to other machines
or even the same machine for the purpose of forming and attaching the beel
or other parts is entirely dispensed with. Another method at present employed
for knitting stockings and socks is to form the leg-piece in what is known
as the "Rothwell" flat web machine, from whence it is transferred to the
"Griswold" round machine to knit the heel and foot, after which it is again
replaced in the aforesaid "Rothwell" machine to finish the toe part, or the toe
may be formed on the "Griswold" and stitched by hand which is a very expensive
operation.
By the application of my invention to the "Lamb" or flat web knitting machine
the articles before described can be manufactured complete in one machine and at
one operation, wherein the narrowings in the leg-piece are performed entirely on
one end of the machine by the employment of a single eyed or other narrowing
comb, with a corresponding increase in speed and production. After the leg piece
is completed the heel and the underside of the foot is formed or knitted without
removing or changing the position of the stocking or sock by putting a necessary
quantity of needles out of action, then as each course is knit or otherwise the
needles are raised singly or otherwise on each side alternately until sufficiently
rn .

page_text: narrowed to form the heel, which, when the latter is completed the action or
process is reversed until all the raised needles are again put into operation singly
or otherwise and alternately as before described, when the needles that were out of
action are re-started to form the foot and toe; the narrowings for the latter being
formed in the usual manner, thus completing a stocking or sock entirely in one
machine.
My invention also allows the heels and the underside of the feet of stockings
and socks to be spliced at any desired point, also the knees and other parts, which
is accomplished by constructing the cams or locks on the carriage of the machine
to allow the needles, singly or otherwise, to rise out of action when requisite for
forming the heel; the needle bed being provided with lengthened slits or slots to
admit of the operation of the same. To prevent the needles slipping into the
cavity or space between the cams when open the top side is fitted with an angular
or other filling piece constructed to allow the upthrow cam to operate in the usual
manner. If desired the wing cams can be connected so as to dispense with the
angular or other filling piece before described. The top side of the cams are curved
or otherwise to facilitate the movement of the needles when being lifted out of
action. The upthrow cams are operated by striking against suitable stops mounted
on each end of the bed of the machine.
To allow the needles to rise out of action the knives or latch openers are
provided with extended curved ends sufficiently long to allow the needles when
raised to pass underneath same; the edges being made perfectly square with the
needles, by which the action of the latter is ensured.
The forming of the heel can be performed at either end of the machine by the
application of apparatus for opening and closing the upthrow cams as desired,
which is accomplished by attaching suitable rods or other equivalents to the
upthrow cams, the opposite ends being connected to a crossbar. This bar is
provided with a universal joint in which is mounted a suitable lever and handle
for operating the same; the fulcrum being attached to the carriage.
For the purpose of splicing and strengthening stockings and socks, or other
knitted articles, a suitable yarn guide or carrier is mounted on a centre or pin
secured to the front of the carriage of the machine, being operated in the movement
of the carriage by the outer end of the same coming in contact with a raised guide
or projection secured to the front guide of the machine in which the carriage slides.
The ends of this guide or projection are constructed in taper or other convenient
forms to throw the yarn carrier into position for feeding the splicing yarn in the
easiest possible manner at the desired time. This guide or projection is of
sufficient length to operate on one half the width of the machine and can be fixed
or adjustable, the latter method being effected by screws or other equivalents. If
desired two guides or projections can be mounted on the front of the machine, by
which either can be used according to the position of the articles being made
therein, in which case they are mounted to allow of being operated vertically or
otherwise. The yarn guide is lifted, when out of action with the said guides, by a
suitable spring.
To prevent the breaking of needles and for giving greater elasticity and firmness
to the sliding action of the needle stops, I construct the latter with a loop or curl
for the purpose of increasing their gripping power to the bed on which they are
mounted. The bottom tongues of the needle stops are provided with concaved
ends which fit on corresponding projections provided on the underside of the
needle bed for holding the same. The ends of the tongues are convexed to allow
of the stops slipping or sliding easily over the said convexed projections on the
underside of the bed when operated by the attendant for fashioning or narrowing
as desired.
In knitting gloves under the old system each finger has to be made separate,
after which they are re-pinned into the knitting machine and attached to the hand
part of the glove, or by stitching by hand. My invention entirely obviates this
defect and enables them to be finished in a flat web machine in one operation.

page_text: Knitted articles, such as, Tam O'Shanter Hats, Tuck Patterns, and other articles
of Hosiery, can be knitted and fashioned in a manner never before attained on a
flat web machine which are performed by being able to raise and throw the needles
out of action as desired.
•
By the application of my improvements to the "Lamb" or flat web knitting
machine, Stockings, Socks, Gloves, and other knitted articles can be finished and
fashioned entirely in one machine, thereby dispensing with the disadvantages
arising from the system of dropping, re-pinning, and stitching the heel and toes of
stockings and socks, which reduces the cost of production and time to a minimum,
at the same time increasing the quality and value of the articles manufactured.
Dated this 23rd day of July 1885
EDMUND CHADWICK,
Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: Stockings, Socks, Gloves, and other similar Articles, and in
Apparatus for Effecting the same, the latter being Applicable
for Manufacturing other Articles of Hosiery.
I WILLIAM ROTHWELL of 1, 3, and 5 Market Street, Bolton in the County of
Lancaster, Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention for
"A NEW OR IMPROVED METHOD OF MANUFACTURING OR KNITTING STOCKINGS,
SOCKS, GLOVES, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING
THE SAME, THE LATTER BEING APPLICABLE FOR MANUFACTURING OTHER ARTICLES
OF HOSIERY," and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
This invention relates to a new or improved method of manufacturing or
knitting Stockings, Socks, Gloves, and other similar articles whereby the whole
operation of knitting is performed entirely in what is known as the "Lamb" or
flat web knitting machine, by which the old process of dropping out Stockings,
Socks, Gloves, and other articles being knitted to be transferred to other machines
or even to the same machine for the purpose of forming and attaching the heel or
other parts is entirely dispensed with. Another method at present employed for
knitting stockings and socks is to form the leg piece in what is known as the
⚫ Rothwell Hat web machine, from whence it is transferred to the "Griswold "
round machine to knit the heel and foot, after which it is again replaced in the
aforesaid "Rothwell" machine to finish the toe part, or the toe may be formed on
the Griswold" and stitched by hand which is a very expensive operation.
"
25
"
By the application of my invention to the "Lamb or flat web knitting machino
the articles before described can be manufactured complete in one machine and at
one operation, wherein the narrowings in the leg piece are performed entirely on
one end of the machine by the employment of a single eyed or other narrowing
comb, with a corresponding increase in speed and production. After the leg picce
is completed the heel and the underside of the foot is formed or knitted without
removing or changing the position of the stocking or sock by putting a necessary
quantity of needles out of action, then, as each course is knit or otherwise the
needles are raised singly or otherwise on each side alternately, until sufficiently
narrowed to form the heel, which when the latter is completed, the action or process
is reversed until all the raised needles are again put into operation, singly, or
otherwise and alternately as before described, when the needles that were out of
action are re-started to form the foot and toe; the narrowings for the latter being
formed in the usual manner, thus completing a stocking or sock entirely in one
machine. This invention also allows the heels and the underside of the feet of
stockings and socks to be spliced at any desired point, also the knees and other
parts.
The cams or locks mounted on the carriage of the machine are so con-
structed as to allow the needles, singly or otherwise, to rise out of action when
requisite for forming the heel; the needle beds being provided with lengthened

page_text: slits or slots to admit of the operation of the same. To prevent the needles slipping
into the cavity or space between the cams when open the top side is fitted with an
angular or other filling piece constructed to allow the upthrow cam to operate in
the usual manner. If desired the wing cams can be connected so as to dispense
with the angular or other filling piece before described. The top side of the cams
are curved or otherwise to facilitate the movement of the needles when being lifted
out of action. The upthrow cams are operated by striking against suitable stops
mounted on each end of the bed of the machine.
To allow the needles to rise out of action the knives or latch openers are
provided with extended curved ends sufficiently long to allow the needles when
raised to pass underneath same; the edges being made perfectly square with the
needles, by which the action of the latter is ensured.
The forming of the heel can be performed at either end of the machine by the
application of apparatus for opening and closing the upthrow cams as desired, which
is accomplished by attaching suitable rods or other equivalents to the upthrow
cams, the opposite ends being connected to a crossbar. This crossbar is provided
with a universal joint in which is mounted a suitable lever and handle for operating
the same; the fulcrum being attached to the carriage.
For the purpose of splicing and strengthening stockings and socks, or other
knitted articles, a suitable yarn guide or carrier is mounted on a centre or pin,
secured to the front of the carriage of the machine, being operated in the movement
of the carriage by the outer end of same coming in contact with a raised guide or
projection, secured to the front guide of the machine in which the carriage slides.
The ends of the guide or projection are constructed in taper or other convenient
forms, to throw the yarn carrier into position for feeding the splicing yarn in the
easiest possible manner at the desired time. This guide or projection is of sufficient
length to operate on one half the width of the machine, and can be fixed or
adjustable, the latter method being effected by screws or other equivalents. If
desired two guides or projections can be mounted on the front of the machine, by
which either can be used according to the position of the articles being made
therein, in which case they are mounted to allow of being operated vertically or
otherwise. The yarn guide is lifted, when out of action with the said guides, by a
suitable spring.
To prevent the breaking of needles and for giving greater elasticity and firmness
to the sliding action of the needle stops I construct the latter with a loop or curl
for the purpose of increasing their gripping power to the bed on which they are
mounted.
By the application of my improvements to the "Lamb" or flat web knitting
machine, Stockings Socks, Gloves, and other knitted articles can be finished and
fashioned entirely in one machine, thereby dispensing with the disadvantages
arising from the system of dropping, re-pinning, and stitching the heels and toes
of stockings and socks, which reduces the cost of production and time. to a
minimum, at the same time increasing the quality and value of the articles
manufactured.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1, Sheet 1, of the accompanying drawings is a side elevation of so much of
a bat web knitting machine as is necessary to illustrate my present Invention with
my improvements applied thereto for the purpose of knitting Stockings, Socks,
Gloves, Tam O'Shanter Hats, Tuck patterns, and other articles of Hosiery-Fig. 2
is a plan of Fig. 1-Fig. 3, Sheet 2, is a sectional elevation through line A. B in
Figs. 1 and 2-Fig. 4 is a part sectional elevation through line C. D. in Figs. 1 and 2,
shewing the needles when raised out of action-Fig. 5 is a front view of knives or
latch openers Fig. 6 is a part end view of machine shewing the sliding stops for
operating the cams-Fig. 7 is a part front view of needle bed with extended slits
or slots in which are shown three needles raised out of action-Fig. 8 is a plan of

page_text: underside of carriage shewing the upthrow cam open to allow knitting to be
performed Fig. 8 A is a plan of underside of carriage shewing the upthrow cam
closed when the opposite side in Fig. 8 is open-Fig. 9 is a part plan of the under-
side of the cams shewing how the upthrow cams are operated and Fig. 10 is a plan
of wing cams and filling piece inade in one.
In all these figures the same letters and numerals are used to indicate corre-
sponding parts.
When knitting stockings and socks on my new or improved method the leg piece
with its narrowings is knitted on one end of the machine, wherein the narrowings
are performed by transferring the stitches from one needle to another as requisite,
after which the needles, from which the stitches are removed, are drawn down out
of action as usual. After the leg piece is completed the heel is formed or knitted
without removing or changing the position of the stocking or sock, which is
accomplished by putting a necessary quantity of the needles 11 out of action by
raising them as shown in Fig. 4, then, as each course is knit, the needles 11 are
raised, singly, or the requisite number, alternately on each side of the machine,
until the heel is sufficiently narrowed. The remaining half of the heel is formed
by putting the needles into action on each side alternately as raised when forming
the first half of the heel as before described. When the heel is completed the
remaining raised needles are then put into action as the case demands, by which
the needles that were out of action are re-started to form the foot and toe; the
narrowings for the toe being formed in the usual manner by. transferring the
stitches from one needle to another, thus completing a plain circular or seamless
full fashioned stocking or sock with what is known as the "Niautic" heel, fashioned
gore and toe in one operation. A "Niautic" heel is a term applied by the trade to
a stocking heel that has only been obtainable on what is known as the "Griswold "
round machine, and is constructed by putting one half the needles out of action on
completing the ankle, the remaining needles being raised out of action one at a
time with one course knit between until about th of the needles only remain raised,
when the action is reversed and the raised needles are put into action one at a
time with one course knit between each until one half the needles containing
stitches are in action, which completes the heel; the remaining half are then put
into action all at once when the rest of the foot can be knitted. The forming of
the heel can be knitted at either end of the machine as desired which is accom-
plished by employing apparatus for opening and closing the upthrow cams 12 as
follows: The wing cams or locks 13 are mounted on the carriage E in the usual
manner, between which the angular filling piece 14 is fixed to prevent the needles
slipping into the cavity or space between them when the upthrow cams 12 are open
as in Fig. 8. The angular filling piece 14 is, as will be seen from the drawings,
constructed to allow the upthrow cam 12 to operate in the usual manner. The top
side 15 of the wing cams 13 are curved to facilitate the movement of the needles
when being lifted out of action. The upthrow cams 12 are provided on the back
side with the projection 16 which fits and slides in the slot 17 in the cam guiding
plate 18. The sliding bar 19 is mounted on the pins or stops 20, and is attached
to the upthrow cam by the screw 21. The screw 21 passes through the angular
slot 22 in the sliding har 19, by which the motion of the upthrow cams 12 is
performed when desired. The sliding bar is secured and firmly held in position by
the spring 23, which locks the same until operated by the han lever 26 or the
stops 28.
To the sliding bars 19 are attached the rods 24 extending on the under-
side of the carriage E, or in any other convenient manner to the crossbar 25. The
crossbar 25 is operated by the handle and lever 26 attached to the sliding carriage E
of the machine by the fulcrum fixing 27.
This apparatus operates as follows:-When forming or knitting the heel, before
each double course or stroke of the machine, the handle and lever 26 are operated
in one or other direction, by which the upthrow cam on the side the needles are
intended to operate is opened as in Fig. 8, whereas the upthrow cam on the other
side is closed by the same operation as in Fig. 8A, the latter being opened by

page_text: reversing the handle and lever 26 for the next double stroke of the carriage, the
former in that instance being closed.
If desired the wing cams 13 and the angular filling pieces 14 can be connecte l
or formed in one piece as in Fig. 10, in which case they slide vertically instead of
diagonally. When other parts of stockings or socks are being knitted the sliding
bars 19 are operated and reversed at each stroke by striking against the adjustable
sliding stops 28 mounted on each end of the machine as shewn in Fig. 6. The
stops 28 are provided with the slots 29 which allows them to be moved sideways
and in or out of action as desired. When the needles are raised out of action for
forming the heel the cams pass under the ends or stops 50. When the needles are
in action and the upthrow cams closed they pass over the said ends or stops. When
in action and knitting the needle ends or stops 50 pass through the passages
between the wing and upthrow cams as indicated by the arrow in Fig. 8.
To allow the needles to be raised sufficiently high to put them out of action the
curved ends 31 of the knives or latch openers G are extended as shewn in Figs. 3
and 4, which allows them to pass over the needles when at their highest point
without interfering with the action of the carriage E.
In consequence of the
increased upward movement required by the needles when raised out of action the
needle beds H are provided with the lengthened slits or slots 32.
"
Previous to this invention it was impossible to raise the needles employed in a
"Lamb or flat web knitting machine beyond the point of the upthrow cams
when open or at their lowest point.
For the purpose of splicing and strengthening the heels, knees, and other parts
of stockings and socks, also other parts of knitted articles at any desired point,
I mount the yarn guide 32 on the centre 33, the latter being supported in the
fixings or bearings 34 secured to the carriage E of the machine. The splicing and
strengthening yarn is fed in any convenient manner into the eye 35 of the yarn
guide 32 which when in action is as shewn in Fig. 4, being operated by the move-
ment of the carriage E placing the tail end 36 of the yarn carrier 32 on the raised
guide or projection 37. The guide or projection 37 can be of any convenient length
secured to the slide bar or front guide M, in which the carriage E slides, by the
screws 38, or their equivalents. If desired two guides or projections 37 can be
mounted on the front of the machine. When the tail end 36 of the yarn carrier 32
is out of action with the guide or projection 37 the yarn carrier 32 is lifted by the
spring 38 as shewn in Figs. 1, 2, and 3.
To prevent the breaking of needles and for giving greater elasticity and firmness
to the sliding action of the needle stops 40, which serve to retain the needles 11
within the grooves or slots 32 of the needle beds H, I prefer to form them in the
manner shewn in Fig. 4 with the loop or curl 41. The way in which they have
hitherto been formed is as shewn in Fig. 3.
In knitting Gloves on my improved method I divide the work, after the formation
of the hand piece, into five sections, each being knitted separately during which
the other sections are stopped by putting their respective needles up out of action
as before described, thus holding a portion of the work on the needles while knitting
is being performed. The narrowings of the fingers are performed in the usual
wanner. When the first section or finger is completed the needles that performed
the operation are all thrown out of action by dropping them, after which the
needles of the next section or finger are dropped into action, the narrowings being
performed as usual, and so on until the glove is complete.
In knitting Tam O'Shanter Hats at one operation by my improved method the
needles are thrown out and into action as the work decreases and increases in
width respectively.
In knitting Tuck patterns and other articles of Hosiery the operation is
performed by putting one or more needles out of action at intervals according to
the pattern of fashioning desired until all the needles in action have knitted one,
two, or more courses, then the raised needles are dropped into action and so on,
which may be manipulated in a variety of ways to numerous to mention.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that
what I claim is :-
1. The method, substantially as herein described, of knitting, finishing, and
fashioning Stockings, Socks, Gloves, Tam O'Shanter Hats, Tuck patterns, and other
similar articles of Hosiery in one machine, in which two straight rows of needles
are used and inclined to one another, without dropping or re-pinning to form the
heel and other parts, by increasing the length of the slits or slots in the needle
beds to allow of the needles being raised or thrown out of action with the cams,
singly or in sections, on each side alternately according to the requirements of the
articles being knitted.
2. In apparatus operating in the manner referred to in the preceding claim, in
combination with the lengthened slits or slots in the needle beds the arrangement
of the latch openers made sufficiently long to pass over the needles when raised,
substantially as herein described.
3. The construction, combination, and arrangement of the cams 12 and 13 and
the angular filling piece 14, substantially as and for the purposes herein set forth.
4. The construction, combination, and arrangement of the cams 13, substantially
as described and as shewn on the drawings in Fig. 10.
5. In a "Lamb" or flat web knitting machine the construction, combination,
and arrangement of apparatus for operating the upthrow cams 12 for the purpose
of opening, closing, and finishing Niautic" heels of stockings and socks, sub-
"
"
stantially as described and shewn.
6. In a "Lamb or flat web knitting machine the construction and employinent
of the yarn carrier 32, mounted on the carriage of the machine for the purpose of
splicing and strengthening the heels, knees, and other parts of stockings and socks,
also other parts of knitted articles, applied and operating substantially as described
and shewn.
7. The use of the adjustable guide 37 mounted in the guide bar M for the
purpose specified.
8. The construction of the spring clip 40, substantially in the manner herein
before described and shewn in Fig. 4.
EDMUND CHADWICK,
Agent for Applicant,