IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, OR OTHER PROTECTORS FOR THE FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of Club Chambers, Regent Street,
in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, OR OTHER PROTECTORS FOR THE
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
1st December 1854.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, OR OTHER PROTECTORS
FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," to
be as follows:-
This Invention relates, firstly, to an improved mode of uniting wooden heels
and soles to the other parts of boots and shoes.
Secondly, to a novel mode and means of uniting the various parts of boots
and shoes together.
Thirdly, to a novel mode and means of heating the cement and various
parts of boots and shoes.
Fourthly, to a novel kind of last.

page_text: Fifthly, to a novel mode of uniting the sole or soles and heels to the other
parts of boots and shoes, and the mode of performing the same.
Sixthly, to the apparatus herein-after described and illustrated for carrying
my Invention into effect.
My Invention, firstly, consists of a novel mode of uniting soles and heels
made of wood to the other parts of boots and shoes, and which I perform
by coating the surface of the parts to be united with any suitable cement
or adhesive solution, and then pressing such parts together until firmly
united.
The second part of my Invention consists of a novel method of uniting or
attaching the different parts of boots and shoes, when such parts are to be united
by means of any suitable adhesive substance or cement, whether such cement
be employed alone, partially, or in combination with other means of fastening,
such as pegs. This method consists of uniting such parts in vacuum or a
partial vacuum, and has the effect of preventing any air being between the
various parts while being united, thereby admitting of a perfect surface contact
of such parts, and consequently a perfect and universal' adhesion.
Figure 2 on the Sheet of Drawings represents a front elevation, partly in
section, of a machine I-employ for uniting or connecting the sole to the upper
and inner sole according to this method, and Figure 3 represents an end eleva-
tion of the machine. A marks a framing to which all the other parts are
attached, as shewn at both Figures. B, Figure 2, is a slide, free to move up
and down in the part. C, and-carries-the-box-or-shoe-holder D; E is a lever,
the fulcrum of which is F, and is for the purpose of raising or lowering the
slide B when required,, a slot G being formed. in-it,,through-which-a-pin
fixed in the slide passes, as shewn; H is a rack, for the purpose of holding
the lever at any particular elevation, and consequently the slide and box or
shoe-holder D; I is a box or chamber, which is secured to the framing A by
the bolts 1, 1. Through this box or chamber passes the rod or piston K, air-
tight, the glands and packing exhibited making a tight joint. The rod K is
moved up and down by similar arrangements to 'that "described for moving the
slide B; it being connected to or formed upon the slide L; for that purpose
the part M-is-made-of-india-rubber. N marks a last, on which an upper O
and inner sole P'are placed; such parts having been properly-arranged-and-
secured upon the last previous to its being put into the box; an outer sole 2 is
then laid on to the other parts, as shewn, a suitable adhesive substance having
been previously applied to the parts desired to be united. The box D is forced'
against and kept in contact with the box I; the india-rubber x serves to
make a tight joint between such parts. R marks a tube, forming an air

page_text: passage through the box I, and which is put in connection with any suitable
exhausting. apparatus, which operation performed and a sufficient vacuum
produced, the piston K is forced down by means of the lever S, until the
india-rubber is forced upon and pressed against the outer sole, and in this
5. manner, and by these means the soles of boots and shoes may be readily united
to the upper and inner soles.
Although I have only shewn and described the, process of putting the sole
on in a partial vacuum, I do not limit or confine myself to uniting these parts
_only of boots and shoes, as the various parts may be advantageously united;
on the same principle; nor do I limit or confine myself to the particular
arrangements' which I have thought necessary for illustrating this part of my
Invention, as I consider it to consist of extracting or expelling the atmosphere
from between or around the parts, to be united during or previous to the
process of uniting such parts, without regard to the means employed for that
purpose:
Thirdly, my Invention: consists of heating the cement, solution, or plastic
material, by which a boot; or shoe or parts thereof are united after the
boot or shoe has been disposed or arranged in a suitable stand or holder
for being operated upon, and also in making or arranging the heating
agent or apparatus so that it can be moved to where the shoe is placed,
& held sufficiently close to it to heat the cement before being pressed.
together, instead of moving the 'boot or shoe or other parts to the heating
agent, & making or arranging such heating agent so that it can be brought
within the required 'distance in relation to the part or parts to be heated with
accuracy and precision, and made to occupy the same space or position any
successive number of times and regulated at pleasure, the distance between
the heater and the parts being regulated by the mechanical adjustment of the
apparatus or the parts, not depending upon the operator. This may be
effected by having an iron plate about the size of the surface to be heated, in
which is secured one end of a rod, the other end of such rod being placed
loose upon a pin; so that the heater may be moved when desired from where.
it is heated. to the boot or shoe. This apparatus will be readily understood by
referring. to Figures 4 and 5; where A marks a heating chamber, which I
prefer to be heated by steam ;.and B, the moveable heater, secured to the rod C,
which is placed upon a centre D; the apparatus being properly placed, in
relation to the boot or shoe, the operator moves the plate B, by taking hold of
the rod C at c, and brings it to the desired position over the parts to be.
heated; this operation performed, it is moved from the boot or shoe to the

page_text: position exhibited; in the same manner, the plate B may be made hollow,
and heated by means of steam, but I prefer the arrangement illustrated.
Fourthly, to an improved last, for placing or securing an elastic bottom to
.or upon lasts, and which I employ in connection with a die, for the purpose of
obtaining an even outer surface upon the soles of boots and shoes; and the
elastic bottom of the last provides for any irregularity in the thickness of the
soles and other parts, and causes the die to press universally. The surface of
the sole, Figures 6 and 7, shew this part of my Invention; where A.marks the
last; B, the india-rubber; and C, the die; which die forms no part of my
present Invention, but is merely shewn to illustrate this part of Invention,
which consists of employing elastic mediums between the bottoms of lasts,
and the sole or soles of the boot or shoe.
my
Fifthly, my Invention consists of casting or forming the sole or soles and
heels upon a last or suitable form, and uniting such sole and heels to the upper
or uppers and inner soles, and which process I prefer to perform in vacuum..
Figures 8 and 9 illustrate the manner and means I employ for carrying this
part of my Invention into effect. A is a portion of a table or stand, to which is
secured the framing B, in which is placed the last, with the upper or upper and"
inner sole placed upon it, as shewn; C is a chambered plate, which fits closely
around the last, along the edge of the upper, or nearly so, & which regulates
the form or shape of the sole and heel, and is moveable. This chamber plate
C is held fast to the framing B by means of, the pins 1, 1, 1, 1, and is made:
in two parts, as shewn at Figure 9, where D mark screws for holding such
parts together. The top of this chamber plate is removed in order to clear the
view, and exhibits the edge of the upper 1, which I prefer to be perforated,
together with the inner sole 2. The cock E is for the purpose of being put in.
communication with an exhausting apparatus, and the aperture F is for the
purpose of inserting air-tight the plastic.or soluble material of which the sole
is to be formed, and which may be forced into the mould by any convenient
arrangement. When a sufficient vacuum is produced, the cock E is closed,
and the communication shut off. When the mould is filled it is allowed to
_cool_or_set, when the chambered-plate-is-then-taken-from-the-frame, and the
shoe removed. And I declare this part of my Invention to consist of attaching
plastic or soluble soles and heels upon boots and shoes as described, and
extracting or expelling the atmosphere from the parts and moulds during the
process of casting or forming the soles and heels upon the other parts of
boots and shoes... :

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
1st June 1855.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIAN
BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the eighteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto nie, the
said Julian Bernard, Her special license that 1, the said Julian Bernard,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Julian
Bernard, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, excr-
cise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, OR OTHER PROTECTORS FOR THE FEET, AND
IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Julian Bernard, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of. the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal. Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement,
reference.being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and
figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My said Invention relates, firstly, to an improved mode of uniting wooden
'heels and soles to the other parts of boots and shoes.
Secondly, to a novel mode and means of, uniting the various parts of boots
and shoes together.
Thirdly, to a novel mode and means of heating the cement and various parts
of boots and shoes.
Fourthly, to a novel kind of last.

page_text: Fifthly, to a novel mode of uniting the sole or soles and heels to the other
parts of boots and shoes, and the mode of performing.
Sixthly, to the apparatus described and illustrated for carrying my
into effect.
Invention
My Invention, firstly, consists of a novel mode of uniting soles and heels
made of wood to the other parts of boots and shoes, and which I perform
by coating the surface of the parts to be united with any suitable cement
or adhesive solution, and then pressing such parts together until firmly
united.
The second part of my Invention consists of a novel method of uniting or
attaching the different parts of boots and shoes, when such parts are to be
united by means of any suitable adhesive substance or cement, whether such
cement be employed alone, partially, or in combination with other means of
fastening, such as pegs. This method consists of uniting such parts in
vacuum or a partial vacuum, and has the effect of preventing any air being
between the various parts while being united, thereby admitting of a perfect
surface contact of such parts, and consequently a perfect and universal
adhesion.
Fig. 2 on the Sheet of Drawings represents a front elevation, partly in
section, of a machine I employ for uniting or connecting the sole to the upper
and inner sole according to this method; and Fig. 3 represents an end eleva-
tion of the machine. A marks a framing, to which all the other parts are
attached, as shown at both Figures. B, Fig. 2, is a slide, free to move up and
down in the part C, and carries the box or shoe-holder D; E is a lever, the
fulcrum of which is F, and is for the purpose of raising or lowering the slide
B when required, a slot G being formed in it, through which a pin fixed in the
slide passes, as shewn; H is. a rack, for the purpose of holding the lever at
any particular elevation, and consequently the slide and box or shoe-holder D;
I is a box or chamber, which is secured to the framing A by the bolts 1, 1.
Through this box or chamber passes the rod or piston K, air-tight, the glands
and packing exhibited making a tight joint. The rod K is moved up and
down by similar arrangements to that described for moving the slide B, it
being connected to or formed upon the slide L; for that
purpose the part M
is made of india-rubber. N-marks a last, on which an upper and inner
sole P are placed, such parts having been properly arranged and secured upon
the last previous to its being put into the box; an outer sole Q is then laid
on to the other parts, as shewn, a suitable adhesive substance having been
previously applied to the parts desired to be united. The box D is, forced
....

page_text: gainst and kept in contact with the box I; the india-rubber x serves to make
tight joint between such parts. R marks a tube, forming an air passage
hrough the box I, and which is put in.connection with any suitable exhausting
apparatus, which operation performed and a sufficient vacuum produced, the
piston K is forced down. by means of the leyer S; until the india-rubber is
forced upon 'and pressed against the outer sole, and in this manner and by
these means the soles of boots and shoes may be readily united to the uppers
and. inner soles. Although I have only shewn and described the process of
putting the sole on in a partial vacuum, I do not limit or confine myself to
uniting-these-parts only of boots and shoes, as-the-various parts may be advan-
tageously united on the same principle; nor do I limit or confine myself to
the particular arrangements which I have thought necessary for illustrating
this part of my Invention, as I consider it to consist of extracting or expelling
the atmosphere from between or around. the parts to be united during or
previous to the process of uniting. such parts, without regard to the means
employed for that purpose.
Thirdly, my Invention consists of heating the cement, solution, or plastic
material by which a boot or shoe or parts thereof are united after the boot
or shoe has been disposed or arranged in a suitable stand or holder for being
operated upon, and also in making or arranging the heating agent or appa-
ratus so that it can be moved to where the shoe is placed and held sufficiently
close to it to heat.the cement before being pressed together, instead of moving
the boot or shoe or other parts to the heating agent, and making or arranging
such heating agent so that it can be brought within the required distance in
relation to the part or parts to be heated with accuracy and precision, and
made to occupy the same space or position any successive number of times
and regulated at pleasure, the distance between. the heater and the parts being
regulated by the mechanical adjustment of the apparatus .or the parts, and
not depending upon the operator. This may be effected by having an, iron
plate about the size of the surface to be heated, in which is secured one end
of a rod, the other end of such rod being placed loose upon a pin, so that the
heater may be moved when desired from where it is heated to the boot or
shoe. This apparatus will be readily understood by referring to Figures
4 and 5; where A marks a heating chamber, which I prefer to be. heated by
steam; and B, the moveable heater, secured to, the rod C, which is placed upon
a centre D; the apparatus being properly placed in relation to the boot or
shoe, the operator moves the plate B, by taking hold of the rod Ċ at c, and
brings it to the desired position over the parts to be heated;, this operation

page_text: performed, it is moved from the boot or shoe to the position exhibited; in the
same manner, the plate B may be made hollow, and heated by means of stean
but I prefer the arrangements illustrated.
Fourthly, to an improved last, for placing or securing an elastic bottom to
or upon lasts, and which I employ in connection with a die for the purpose of
obtaining an even outer surface upon the soles of boots and shoes, and the
clastic bottom of the last provides for any irregularity in the thickness of
the soles and other parts, and causes the die to press universally the surface of
the sole. Figs. 6 and 7 shew this part of my Invention; where A marks the
last; B, the india-rubber; and C, the die; which die forms no part of my present
Invention, except when employed as described, but is merely shewn to illus-
trate this part of my Invention, which consists of employing elastic mediums
between the bottoms of lasts, and the sole or soles of the boot or shoe.
Fifthly, my Invention consists of casting or forming the sole or soles and
heels upon a last of suitable form, and uniting such sole and heels to the upper
or uppers and inner soles, and which process I prefer to perform in vacuum.
Figs. 8 and 9 illustrate the manner and means I employ for carrying
this part of my Invention into effect. A is a portion of a table or stand, to
which is secured the framing B, in which is placed the last, with the upper or
upper and inner sole placed upon it, as shewn. C is a chambered plate, which
fits closely around the last, along the clge of the upper, or nearly so, and
which regulates the form or shape of the sole and heel, and is moveable. This
chamberd plate C is held fast to the framing B by means of the pins 1, 1, 1, 1,
and is made in two parts, as shown at Fig. 9, where D marks screws for holding
such parts together. The top of this chamber plate is removed in order to
clear the view, and exhibits the edge of the upper 1, which I prefer to be per-
forated, together with the inner sole 2. The cock E is for the purpose of being
put in communication with an exhausting apparatus, and the aperture is for
the purpose of admitting air-tight the plastic or soluble material of which the
sole is to be formed, and which may be forced into the mould by any convenient
arrangement. When a sufficient vacuum is produced, the cock E is closed
and the communication shut off. When the mould is filled, it is allowed to
cool or set, when the chambered plate is then taken from the frame, and the
shoe.removed. And I declare this part of my Invention to consist_of_attaching
or casting plastic or soluble soles and heels upon boots and shoes as described,
and extracting or expelling the atmosphere from the parts and mould during
the process of casting or forming the soles and heels upon the other parts of
boots and shoes.

page_text: Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself to
the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or
refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of my said Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this First day of June, One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-five.
JULIAN BERNARD. (L.S.)