Improvements in Elastic-side Shoes.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Nov., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 5th Apr., 1892-Accepted, 7th May, 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Elastic-side Shoes.
I, HENRY NEWCOMB, a citizen of the United States, residing at No. 515
Linden Street, in the City of Corinth, County of Alcorn, and State of Mississippi,
United States of America, Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates particularly to novel means for preventing the elastic
goring of the uppers of elastic side shoes from giving way, bagging or getting out
of shape.
It is well known that in elastic side shoes, the rubber threads of the goring give
way and break very easily on each side of the goring along the line of attachment
to the leather, long before the other parts of the shoe have been worn out.
Frequently, the goring gives way in a few weeks, and often in a few days where
the shoes have been kept in store for any considerable time. For this reason, shoes
of this class have been largely supplanted by the buttoned or laced shoe.
This rapid deterioration of the goring is caused by the breaking or giving way of
the rubber threads, and this breaking or giving way of the rubber threads is caused
by the action of the chemicals in the leather derived from the tanning process, or
by the oil, grease or other substances in the dressing. In addition to this, the
abrupt ridge usually formed by the lapping together of the lining of the shoc, the
leather and the goring, to be united by one process of stitching, weakens the rubber
threads at the junction, so that, as heretofore constructed, this kind of shoe has not
been of such durability as to commend itself to the public.
Attempts have heretofore been made to overcome these difficulties, but they have
been of such a nature as to render their use impracticable for the general public on
account of the increased cost in manufacturing the shoes. My invention overcomes
the difficulties without additional cost.
In carrying out my invention, I secure the elastic threads to the woven web of
the gore itself by a line, or lines, of stitching, not passing through the leather
portions of the upper, but separate and independent from the stitching or fastenings,
which unite the gore to the leather portions of the shoe. I also extend the lining
of the shoe, which should be of cloth or similar material but not oil-dressed leather,
beyond the edges of the leather portions of the upper, and secure this extended part
of the lining to the goring.
By constructing the shoe in this way, the objectionable features above referred to
are done away with, and no additional expense in the manufacture of the shoe is
incurred.
The main body of the upper may be constructed in the usual way, and the
gorings are secured to the leather parts by jines of stitching in a similar way to
that heretofore employed, but less lap of the leather parts of the shoe and goring is
required.
The lining is extended beyond the elge of the goring and beyond the edge of
the leather a short distance, say one-fourth of an inch, and lines of stitching are
made in the goring itself without any intervening leather, or other substance, a
short distance from the edge of the leather, say one-fourth of an inch, or a little
less. These lines of stitching also extend through the extended edges of the lining.
By this means, the elastic threads are secured tightly to the woven web of the
goring near its edges, and also to the lining, which does not contain any grease, oil
or chemicals that would have any effect upon the rubber.
It will thus be seen that when the ends of the elastic threads are spoiled or
broken on the line of attachment to the leather parts, the threads are still securely
held by the fastenings or stitching which secure it to the woven web of the fabric.

page_text: These fastenings also secure the elastic threads to the lining, which constitutes an
additional means for properly connecting the goring with the body of the upper.
The connection is such that a flat, neat side is given to the shoe, and the inside is
smooth and comfortable. The extended part of the lining acts as a stay to the web,
so that it cannot bag in the least, and the edges of the several parts so overlap 5
each other as to form a smooth and durable juntion.
Dated this 20th day of October 1901
HENRY NEWCOMB.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Elastic-side Shoes.
I, HENRY NEWCOMB, a citizen of the United States. residing at No. 515
Linden Street, in the City of Corinth, County of Alcorn, and State of Mississippi,
United States of America, Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates particularly to novel means for preventing the elastic
goring of the uppers of congress shoes from giving way, bagging or getting out of
shape.
It is well known that in congress or clastic-side shoes, the rubber threads of the
goring give way and break very easily, on each side of the goring along the line of
attachment to the leather, long before the other parts of the shoe have worn out.
Frequently, the goring gives way in a few weeks, and often in a few days, where
the shoes have been kept in store for any considerable time. For this reason, the
congress shoe has been largely supplanted by the buttoned or laced shoe.
This rapid deterioration of the goring is caused by the breaking or giving way of
the rubber threads, and this breaking or giving way of the rubber threads is caused
by the action of the chemicals in the leather derived from the tanning process, or
by the oil, grease or other substances in the dressing. In addition to this, the
abrupt ridge usually formed by the lapping together of the lining of the shoe, the
leather and the goring to be united by one process of stitching weakens the rubber
threads at the junction, so that, as heretofore constructed, the congres; shoe has
not been of such durability as to commend itself to the public. Attempts have
heretofore been made to overcome these difficulties, but they have been of such a
nature as to render their use impracticable for the general public on account of the
increased cost in manufacturing the shoes. My invention overcomes the difficulties
without additional cost.
In carrying out my invention, I secure the elastic threads to the woven web of
the gore itself, by line or lines of stitching, not passing through the leather
portions of the upper, but separate and independent from the stitching or fastenings
which unite the gore to the leather portions of the shoe. I also extend the lining
of the shoc, which should be of cloth or similar material, but not oil-dressed leather,
beyond the edges of the leather portions of the upper, and secure this extended
part of the lining to the goring. By constructing the shoe in this way, the
objectionable features above referred to are done away with, and no additional
expense
in the manufacture of the shoe is incurred.
The accompanying drawing illustrates my invention.
Fig. is an inside view of shoe with a goring attached in accordance with my
invention.
Fig. 2 is an outside view of the same, and
Fig. 3 is a horizontal cross-section.
The main body of the upper may be constructed in the usual way, and the
gorings are secured to the leather parts by lines of stitching a, in a similar way to
that heretofore employed, but less lap of the leather parts of the shoe and the
goring is required.

page_text: The lining a, is extended beyond the edge of the goring, and beyond the edge of
the leather a short distance, say one-fourth of an inch, and lines of stitching, are
made in the goring itself, without any intervening leather or other substance, a
short distance from the edge of the leather, say one-fourth of an inch, or a little
less. These lines of stitching also extend through the extended edges of the lining.
By this means, the elastic threads are secured tightly to the woven web of the
goring near its edges, and also to the lining a, which does not contain any grease,
oil or chemicals that would have any effect upon the rubber.
It will thus be seen that, when the ends of the elastic threads are spoiled or
broken, on the line of attachment to the leather parts, the threads are still securely
held by the fastenings, which secure it to the woven web of the fabric. These
fastenings also secure the elastic threads to the lining which constitutes an additional
means for properly connecting the goring with the body of the upper. Stitching
such as shown is preferably employed, but fastenings of any suitable kind may be
used. The connection is such that a flat, neat side is given to the shoe, and the
inside is smooth and comfortable. The extended part of the lining acts as a stay to
the web, so that it cannot bag in the least, and the edges of the several parts so
overlap each other as to form a smooth and durable junction.
Having now particularly described an ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is―
1. In a shoe, an elastic goring attached at its edges to the leather portions of the
upper and having fastenings, securing the ciastic threads to the woven web of the
goring itself, said fastenings being removed from, and within the edges of the leather
portions of the upper, substantially as described.
2. In a shoe, the combination of the leather portions of the upper, the elastic
goring secured at its edges to the leather, a lining extending beyond the edges of
the leather and overlapping the inside of the goring, and the fastenings b, securing
the elastic threads to the web of the goring, and to the lining, said fastenings being
removed from, and independent of the leather parts of the shoe, substantially as
described.
Dated this 5th day of April 1892.
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.