Improvements in Looms for Weaving Netted or Leno Fabrics.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Oct., 1889-
Complete Specification Left. 19th July, 1890-Accepted, 23rd Aug, 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms for Weaving Netted or Leno Fabrics.
We, LEWIS HASLAM, Manufacturer, of Ravenswood near Bolton and CORNELIUS
MARSHALL, Weaving Manager, of 151 Mayor Street, Bolton Lane both in the County
of Lancaster do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to an arrangement in a loom of metal healds which may be
operated in such a manner as to produce fabrics of a netted or leno character.
For this purpose we arrange the warp threads in groups and give them special
movements by the metal healds in combination with the ordinary healds. The warp
threads are thus crossed, and interlaced by the weft threads in such a manner as
to form the pattern required.
To produce for example a fabric with the warp threads grouped in fours we
place in front of the ordinary heald, two metal healds each somewhat like an
ordinary reed in appearance, having in every alternate dent a needle standing up
from the lower bar with the eye of the needle about midway in the height of the
reed. The four warp threads of each group are distributed as follows:-The first
passes free through the ordinary heald then through the eye of the hinder metal heald
and free through a dent of the front metal heald; the second and third threads pass
through eyes of the ordinary heald but free through both the metal healds; the fourth
thread passes free through the ordinary heald and the hind metal heald but through
an eye of the front metal heald.
The two metal healds besides having an up and down motion have also a laterally
reciprocating motion, the one moving to the right at the same time that the other
moves to the left.
The required movements are given by cams worked by the loom; and an
additional cam gives a to and fro motion to a roller over which pass the first and
fourth warp threads of each group, so as to give them slack when they are made
to cross the other warp threads, and to take up the slack when they do not cross.
By varying the cams which govern the healds the pattern of the fabric can be
varied, making the crossed and uncrossed parts extend over one, two, or more weft
threads as may be desired.
Dated this 19th day of October 1889.
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms for Weaving Netted or Leno Fabrics.
We, LEWIS HASLAM, Manufacturer, of Ravenswood near Bolton and CORNELIUS
MARSHALL, Weaving. Manager, of 151 Mayor Street, Bolton Lane Bolton both in the
County of Lancaster do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to an arrangement, in combination with a weaving loom,
of certain healds of novel construction which may be operated in such a manner
as to produce fabrics of a net or leno character. For this purpose we arrange the
warp threads in groups and, by means of the additional healds acting in combina-
tion with the ordinary healds, we give them movements by which they are crossed
and interlaced with each other and with the weft thus producing a pattern which may
be varied by varying the numbers of grouped threads and the timing of the move-
ments of the healds. The additional healds which we employ are in appearance

page_text: somewhat like reeds, having in each alternate dent a needle standing up from the
lower bar with the eye of the needle about midway in the height of the dent. We
mount two of these healds in front of the ordinary healds and by means of suitable
cams we give them up and down movements and also lateral reciprocating move-
ments in opposite directions, the one moving to the right while the other moves
to the left. As an example, we may assume that the warp threads are arranged in
groups of four which we distribute as follows. We pass the first of the group free
through the ordinary heald, then through the eye of a needle in the hinder needle
heald, then free through the front needle heald. We pass the second and third
threads through eyes of the ordinary heald then free through both the needle
healds. And we pass the fourth thread free through the ordinary heald and the
hinder needle heald and then through an eye of a needle in the front needle heald.
As all the healds reciprocate vertically to form successive sheds, while the needle
healds reciprocate laterally, two of the threads of each group of four are made to
cross the others, while one, two or more shoots of the weft are made and thus there
are produced fabrics of a net or leno character and of many different patterns. In
order to give slack for the crossing of the warp threads and to take up slack, the
threads which pass through the needle eyes are carried on their way to the healds
over a roller or bar having a reciprocating movement by which they are alternately
loosed and tightened.
Such being the general character of our invention we shall describe apparatus
according to our invention applied to a loom of ordinary construction, referring to
the accompanying drawings.
Fig. 1 is an end view, Fig. 2 is a front view, and Fig. 3 is a plan of so much of a
loom as is necessary to shew our apparatus applied to it.
Figures 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 shew the forms of the cams employed for weaving a
particular leno pattern.
Figures 9, 10 and 11 shew in plan three conditions of four of the warp threads.
Figure 12 is a part transverse section shewing the take up for the crossing warp
threads.
Fig. 13 shews the pattern of fabric produced by means of the apparatus.
Fig. 14 is a front view of part of one of the needle healds.
On the cam shaft A of the loom we fix a set of cams, namely a cam B for operating
the take up, cans B1 B2 B3 for operating the ordinary heald and the needle healds,
and on the driving wheel D we form a face cam having a protuberance R for moving
the needle healds horizontally. The cams B, B1, B2 B3, act on rollers on levers C, CY
C² C³ respectively. The lever C is linked by a rod E to an arm on a rock shaft K
arms of which by rods M move to and fro a roller L or it might be a bar over which
are passed two of every four warp threads thus taking up and giving out slack of
these threads. The levers C₁ (C3 are linked respectively by rods E¹ E² E³ to
overhead levers on rock shafts F1 F2 F3.
From F is suspended the ordinary heald H and from F2 and F3 are suspended in front.
of the heald H the two needle healds G2 G3 which will presently be described. The
cam Racts on a roller of a vertical lever Qthe upper end of which is linked to an
arm P on a vertical rocking shaft N. The rock shaft N and a parallel rock shaft N1
have double arms P, P and P2 P3 carrying guide rods O on which the needle
healds GG can slide vertically while by the partial to and fro revolution of the
shaft N they are caused to move from right to left and back. The cams give motions
to the respective parts in one direction in each case, their back strokes being effected
by suitable springs. The needle healds G2 G3 are made like reeds but with their dents
of double the width of those of the ordinary reed. From the lower bar of the frame
in each case stand up needles g having their eyes about midway in the height of the
reed. There is a needle g in every alternate dent of each reed, and these needles are
in such positions that when the two needle frames G G are in middle position exactly
facing each other, a needle g in the one faces a space without a needle in the other.
The stringing of every four warp threads a bed is as shown by Fig. 9, that is to
say a passes free through the heald H but through the eye of a needle g in the frame G
2

page_text: C
then free through G³; b and c both pass through eyes of the heald H but free through
G2 and G³ passes free through the heald H and through G but through the eye
of a needle g¹ in G³.
Thus the two middle warps b and c are moved up and down by the heald H and the
two side warps a and d are moved up and down and are also moved to right and left
by the needles of (and G³.
The yarns a and d are carried over the take up roller or bar L which gives and takes
up the necessary slack.
The cams B, B1 B2 B³, as shewn respectively by Figs. 4, 5, 6 and 7 are formed to
suit a repetition of pattern every 7 picks as shewn by Fig. 13, namely two picks 1 and 2
with d and a crossed under c and but over the wefts which have c and 6 under them,
then 5 picks 3 to 7 inclusive of ordinary weaving. c and 6 under and over the wefts
together while d and a are over and under the wefts together. Obviously, by other-
wise dividing the cams the number of picks of each kind might be varied and the
pattern might also be varied by arranging the warp threads in groups of different
numbers.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is.
1. In combination with a weaving loom cams connected respectively by levers and
rods to a take up roller or bar and to an ordinary heald, and also to a pair of needle
healds having lateral as well as vertical reciprocating motions, as and for the purpose
set forth.
2. In combination with a weaving loom a pair of needle healds each constructed as
a reed with needles in its alternate dents and both healds fitted to slide vertically on
guide bars attached to arms of vertical rocking shafts, the arms for the one frame
opposite to those for the other frame, substantially as and for the purpose described.
3. In a weaving loom having an ordinary heald and a pair of horizontally and
vertically reciprocating needle healds the arrangement of the warp threads in
groups, some of the threads of each group passed through eyes of the ordinary
heald and free through the needle healds, others of the threads of each group passed
over a take up roller or bar, then free through the ordinary heald and through
eyes of the needles in the one and the other of the two needle healds, substantially as
described.
Dated this 19th day of July 1890
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicants.