Im- PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS AND IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Cotton, of Loughborough, in the
County of Leicester, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "Im-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS AND IN THE APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREIN.
"
Sealed the 25th March 1875, and dated the 6th October 1874.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Cotton at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
6th October 1874.
I, WILLIAM COTTON, of Loughborough, in the County of Leicester,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS AND IN THE APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREIN," to be as follows:-
The object of the Invention is, when producing certain descriptions of
"nant" fabric. by nower to obtain additional
fahria such 08

page_text: The fabric for each pair of "pants" is generally made in two halves,
one for each side and leg, and when employing fashioning machinery
for the purpose the fashioning to the fabric is at those selvages which in
the upper part of the complete pant form the back of it and down the
inside of each leg.
It is desirable also to produce other fashioned parts, as at the hips
and the backs or calves of the legs and ankles.
In carrying out these improvements I employ additional thread
carriers to come into operation when desired, and when operating such
thread carriers by friction I apply two or more stops to regulate the
distance of traverse of the thread carrier bars, such stops being capable
of adjustment by set screw or otherwise, and they are applied in separate
rocking plates capable of being set as required to stop their bars at
different distances. There are also additional shifting points to be
brought into action when required.
By one method of working according to these improvements I com-
mence the weaving of each half pant about the middle of the loin, and
having formed one row of loops on the needles I take them on to the
hooks of a reversing bar, hanging-on bar, or additional needle bar, by
which the work will now be held as produced, and proceed to form so
much as may be required of fabric across the whole width, fashioning
at one selvage in the usual way up when I require narrowing for the
drawing of the hip, and then the one thread carrier will cease to make a
full traverse across the whole width and proceed to weave only one
portion, and another thread carrier will be brought into operation to
produce the other portion, one for one side and the other for the other
side of the hip. The additional shifting points also come into operation
to shift the loops as formed for the desired narrowing to each side of
such hip portions.
Having produced the desired portions of fabric up to the position for
the waistband, I now commence afresh from the first row of loops laid
in the middle of the loin, and proceed to produce fabric for the half seat
and leg by fashioning such parts downwards to the extent desired, and
as is now well understood, particularly when working by machinery now
well known in the trade as bearing my name, but according to my
present improvements in proceeding down the leg when I come to the
part for the fashioning for the calf 1 by the aid of an additional thread

page_text: carrier and stopping the extent of traverse of the thread carrier which
has been in operation I proceed to produce a certain other portion of
the length in two breadths. When these two breadths have been pro-
duced to the extent desired I then knock off one of these portions from
its needles and bring it round to join on to the opposite selvage of the
other portion, and continue the work in one breadth by the use of one
thread carrier. By these means I obtain split hip and twisted ankles
with the parts fashioned as desired by mechanical means.
Although in this description I have referred only to one thread
carrier as in operation upon cach part or section of fabric, it will be
evident that other or extra thread carriers may be employed if desired
for striping or other effects.
Also I do not confine myself to the method of working stated, and
in place of working for fashioning by narrowing the fashioning may be
by widening.
Also I form the stops to stop the progress of the thread carrier bars
with tubes to receive the ends of the bars and check their speed, such
tubes fitting loosely and having a hole or holes in them to allow of the
escape of the air therein.
The tubes prevent the rebound of the bars when working at high
speeds. These tubes may be formed at the ends of the bars.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Cotton in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 6th April 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
COTTON, of Loughborough, in the County of Leicester, Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of October, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said William Cotton, Her special license that

page_text: "
I, the said William Cotton, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said William Cotton, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, 5
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS AND IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN,'
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Cotton,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing, under 1
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Cotton, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
The object of the Invention is when producing certain descriptions of
looped fabric, such as "pant" fabric, by machinery operated by power
to obtain facility for additional fashioning thereto.
"
When producing "pant" fabric the fabric for each pair of "pants
is generally made in two halves, one for each side and one leg of the
pant, and when employing fashioning machinery for the purpose the
fashioning to the fabric for the upper part or body of the complete pant is
produced at those selvages or parts only which in such complete "pant"
are at the back of it, and as to the legs only at that part of them which
runs down the inside of each.
s
According to one part of my present improvements I produce
fashioning" at other parts of such fabric, as at the "hips" and at the
back of the calves of the legs and the ankles.
In carrying out this part of my improvements I arrange the machinery
with additional thread carriers to come into operation when desired,
and when operating such thread carriers for their traverse motions by
friction applied to the bars carrying them I apply two or more stops
capable of being readily brought into operation at the times desired to
1

page_text: determine the distance of traverse of the thread carrier bar or bars,
such stops being capable of adjustment by set screw or otherwise, and
they are applied in separate rocking plates capable of being set as
required to stop their bars at the distances determined upon. I also
employ additional shifting points, which I bring into operation for the
narrowings at the respective parts where desired.
But that the Invention may be better understood I will by the aid of
the accompanying Drawings proceed to describe means pursued by me
in carrying my present improvements into effect.
*k
Supposing the object to be to produce "pants" I generally commence
the weaving of each half "pant" at about the middle of the loin, say
about the line a, a', Figure 1 (though I do not confine myself thereto),
and having formed one row of loops on the needles I take the row of
loops thus formed off such needles on to the hooks of a "reversing
bar"
or on to a "hanging-on bar" or on to additional "needle bars,"
by which the work will now be held as it is produced, and I proceed to
produce so much of fabric as may be required across the whole of the
width for the widest part of the intended .part pant" and with
fashioning thereto at one selvage thereof (say a, a¹, to b, b',) in the usual
way. But when I desire in addition to such ordinary narrowing at the
one selvage, as in working from a, a', to the part b, b', I also wish to
produce other fashioning for extra and additional narrowing into the
band over the hip; then the one thread carrier thus far employed will
now cease to make a full traverse of the whole of such breadth, and will
be stopped in such traverse at, say, the point c, and aided by additional
shifting points that thread carrier will continue to lay in thread and
produce fabric narrowing at both selvages as it progresses from b, c,
to d, e, and another thread carrier with its shifting points will simul-
taneously proceed to lay in thread narrowing as it progresses at one
selvage for the portion from b¹, c, to f, g. Thus one thread carrier will
proceed with its shifting points for one portion of the fabric on one side
of the hip and simultaneously the other for the portion to form the other
side of that hip.
Having thus produced such desired portion of fabric up to the waist-
band I now remove the fabric thus produced from the needles and
replace the first row of loops a, a, on those needles, but so as now to
continue the fabric in the opposite direction, and I proceed in the

page_text: ordinary way to produce fabric for the half seat of the "pant," and for
one leg, fashioning as desired such parts progressively from a, a, to i, i,
and
j, j', particularly when working by machinery now well known in
the trade as bearing my name, and as is well understood; but according
to this part of the present improvements having completed the portion
by fashioning at both selvages for the thigh, say from the points i, i,
to j, j, I then by the aid of the additional thread carrier and by again
stopping the extent of motion of the ordinary thread carrier which has
been in operation now proceed by the use of the two thread carriers to
produce the fabric simultaneously in two separate breadths from j, k,
to m, n, and from k, j, n, o, and when these two breadths have been
produced to the extent desired I then knock off one of these portions,
say the portion n, o, and I turn such portion round so that the part o
will join side by side on to other needles with the part m of the frame,
and I proceed to form the remainder of the fabric from m, n, and n¹, o,
to p, q, as desired, by the use of the single ordinary thread carrier, as
indicated by the rough outline diagram Figure 2. By these means
fabric for a half pant will be produced, as indicated by such diagram.
Figure 2, woven together, except at the parts o to d and g, and from n, k,
to n³, n, p, and n³, q, and from c to e and f, and in like manner may the
other half "pant" be produced for the opposite leg, with such variations
only as are desired in producing one for the right hand and the other
for the left-hand leg. The half pant shown is for a left side. When
this half pant has been thus produced it will be connected by sewing to
the corresponding parts of the other half pant from, say, the parts i, a, d.
From the points i, i, to j, j', the parts of each leg will be sewn together
to produce the thigh, and from j, j¹, to o, m, for the "calf," and thence
from k, n, p, and k, n¹, q, they will be brought round to be joined
together by sewing for the ankles. The parts c, e, and c, f, will also be
united together for the hips.
"
I would remark that although I have only described this part of the
Invention in its application to " pants it is also applicable to other
articles of wearing apparel requiring such extra fashioning.
Figure 3 shows by end view parts at one end of a frame of the
character of that generally used by me, and known in the trade as
Cotton's frames with other of my present improvements applied.
Figure 4 shows a front view and Figure 5 a plan view of the same.
Figures 6 and 7 show sectional views, and Figures 8 and 9 details.

page_text: In each of these views the same letters are employed to indicate
corresponding parts.
A, A, are parts of the main framing; B, B, represent two of the
thread carrier bars; and C, C, two of the bars for carrying the frames
or plates of shifting points; D represents a stationary bracket, which is
provided with a stop D¹ capable of adjustment or of variation so as to act
for the time as a fixed stop to arrest the motion of a thread carrier by its
bar B in working to produce an unfashioned selvage. The other of such
bars B may be stopped at De by the surface of such bracket D, or the
stop may be applied to a rocking plate or lever D³, which is applied to
the bracket D so as to be capable of rocking on a fixed stud D' carried
by that bracket D. When this rocking plate or lever D³ is turned over,
as indicated by dotted lines in Figure 7, it is then out of the way of
interfering with the traverse of either bars B, but when that rocking
plate or lever D³ is in position as indicated by the full lines in the
respective Figures an adjustable or changeable stop D³ therein is in
position to arrest the position of one of the bars B, whilst that rocking
plate or lever D³ by its form is still out of the way of interfering with
the operations of the other of the bars B at D'. E is another rocking
plate, which is supported to rock upon a stud E¹ carried by an arm or
enlargement of the boss F receiving the screw F¹, the motions of which
effect the variations for fashioning. This rocking plate E is formed with
a handle E², by which it is readily turned upon its axis of motion E¹, and
it is provided with adjustable or changeable stops E³, E³, E³, either of
which may be brought opposite to the end of one of the bars B, according
to the change desired; or the plate E may be so turned out of the. way
the bars B as not to interfere with to arrest either of them in their
motion. This plate E may by its surface or by an adjustable stop
applied thereto be used also to act as a stop to the other bar B. The
other end of the frame is similarly provided with rocking plates or levers
and adjustable or changeable stops to act on the thread carrier bars, but
the form or character of them in any case may be varied.
of
The stops for arresting the progress of the carriers by acting on
carrier bars B I sometimes form tubular for a short distance, as indicated
by the side and end views in the two Figures 8 and 9, and in form corre-
sponding with that of the bars. These tubular portions are formed
slightly larger in internal diameter than the external diameter of the
end of the bars to be received into them sufficient to admit of escape

page_text: of air therefrom as the bar enters, so that the end of the tube will act as
a stop, yet allow of such air in its escape acting with slight elastic
resisting force to check the speed of the carrier bars, and also by the
partial vacuum produced prevent recoil or rebound. These tubular
portions with the parts of the bars act as cylinders and pistons, and if 5
desired the tubes may be applied to the ends of the bars and the pistons
or plungers be formed as the stops. A hole or holes may also be formed
in these tubular portions to aid the escape of the air. The buffing or
cushioning thus obtained to the bars acts by compression, whilst the too
free rebound is prevented by exhaustion or the partial vacuum.
1
In the compression the small outlet left and in the exhaustion the
small inlet left is just sufficient to insure the carrier bar going gradually
up to the stop.
The extra carriers of the shifting points are applied so as to be capable
of sliding on the bar C, C, and of being held at any desired position 1
thereon for the time between stops affixed with capability of adjust-
ment by set screw or otherwise on such bars, or of being turned up out
of the way if desired.
Having thus described my Invention and means which I adopt in
carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that I do not 2
confine myself to the precise arrangements of parts and mode of working
described, as variations may be made therein without departing from the
peculiar character of the Invention, but what I do claim is,-
First. The method of working in the manufacture of looped fabrics
by machinery operated by power, so that facility is obtained for pro- 2
ducing additional fashioning to parts such as stated, and also the
formation by the separation and twisting or turning over for completion
of parts, or the production by mechanical means of what is understood
when making pant fabric by hand as "split hips" and twisted ankles.
Secondly. I claim the arranging or combining parts of machinery for 3
the manufacture of looped fabrics, whereby rocking plates or levers are
employed for stopping the motions of the thread carrier bars, substantially
as described.
Thirdly. I claim the forming the stops and the parts of the thread
carrier bars, so that one may pass into a tube or opening in the other 3

page_text: to check speed and prevent rebound, in manner substantially as
explained.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Cotton, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Fifth day of April, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.
WILLIAM COTTON. (L.S.)