Year: 1897

page_text: We, SAMUEL LENNARD, of Asylum Street, Leicester, Boot Manufacturer, LARRATT
SIMPSON, of Brougham Street, Leicester, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, and ALBERT
CHARLES YORK, of Rutland Street, Leicester, Machinery Agent, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to boots, shoes and the like and embodies improvements
which are especially applicable to boots and shoes made upon what is known in
the boot trade as the "Veldt-Schoen" principle.
In these goods the marginal edge of the upper is turned outwards at a right
angle and sewn to the sole.
The leading feature of these goods is the exceeding flexible nature of the sole
from the heel to the toe, that is of both the waist and the forepart.
Indeed it is found that the flexibility of the waist of the boot or shoe is obtained
at the sacrifice of any support for the natural arch in the waist of the human foot.
The constant use of boots and shoes so manufactured has therefore a tendency
to produce flat-footedness of the wearer and at the same time disqualifies them for
walking purposes generally.
Now the present invention contemplates an improvement in the type of boots
and shoes herein before referred to, which affords the requisite support to the waist
or arch of the human foot and at the same time obtains or preserves a maximum
of flexibility in the forepart, (which in actual fact is the only part where flexibility
is needed) that renders such goods essentially applicable for general walking
purposes and the use of which is not attended by any of the disadvantages before
mentioned.
A boot or shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention combines in
an eminent degree, a firm and rigid waist and an intensely flexible forepart, which
may be obtained in the following manner.
The upper is placed upon the last in the usual way but instead of the edge of
the upper being turned outwards from the heel seat on one side to the heel seat
on the other side, the edge of the upper is cut through on each side at a point which
divides the waist from the forepart and that portion of the upper in the waist is
turned inwards and temporarily tacked down on the insole on the bottom of the
last and the other portion of the upper has its edge turned outwards and is sub-
sequently sewn to the sole in the usual way.
In the waist of the boot or shoe there may be interposed a shank or stiff piece of
eatber of the well known type and in the subsequent process of uniting the sole to
the upper, the stitches in the waist portion may pass through the upper leather,

page_text: the insole and the outer sole, while in the forepart the stitches may pass through
a superposed welt, the upper and the outsole.
The innersole is therefore not sewn to the upper and the outersole in the forepart.
When made in the manner herein before referred to the waist of a boot or shoe is
provided with the requisite firmness and rigidity to sustain the arch of the foot in
its natural position, while the forepart of the boot or shoe has a maximum of flexi-
bility and suppleness which render the boot or shoe particularly easy and adapted
for walking purposes generally.
In some cases the welt may be dispensed with and when a lining to the boot or
shoe is employed the bottom edge of same may be interposed between the inner-
sole and the upper either attached or left unattached as desired.
Some slight modifications in the details of the construction hereinbefore described
may be made without departing from the main lines of the invention.
Dated this 4th day of June 1897.
BOULT & WADE,
Agents for the Applicants.
We, SAMUEL LENNARD, of Asylum Street, Leicester, Boot Manufacturer, LARRATT
SIMPSON, of Brougham Street, Leicester, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, and ALBERT
CHARLES YORK, of Rutland Street, Leicester, Machinery Agent, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement: --
This invention relates to boots, shoes and the like and embodies improvements
which are especially applicable to boots and shoes made upon what is known in
the boot trade as the "Veldt-Schoen" principle.
In these goods the marginal edge of the upper is turned outwards at a right
angle and sewn to the sole.
The leading feature of these goods is the exceeding flexible nature of the sole
from the heel to the toe, that is of both the waist and the forepart.
Indeed it is found that the flexibility of the waist of the boot or shoe is obtained
at the sacrifice of any support for the natural arch in the waist of the human foot.
The constant use of boots and shoes so manufactured has therefore a tendency
to produce flat-footedness of the wearer and on this account they are undesirable
for walking purposes generally.
Now the present invention contemplates an improvement in the type of boots
and shoes hereinbefore referred to, which affords the requisite support to the waist
or arch of the human foot and at the same time secures a maximum of flexibility
in the forepart, (which in actual fact is the only part where flexibility is needed)
that renders such goods essentially applicable for general walking purposes and
the use of which is not attended by any of the disadvantages before mentioned.
A boot or shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention combines
in an eminent degree, a firm and rigid waist and an intensely flexible forepart,
and will be understood from the following further description in reference to the
accompanying drawing wherein,
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe constructed in accordance with this
invention.
Figure 2 is a horizontal section taken on the line Y Y of Figure 1

page_text: Figure 3 is a transverse section through the waist of the shoe on the line X X of
Figure 2 and,
Figure 4 a transverse section of the forepart taken on the line Z Z of the same
figure.
Like letters of reference indicate similar parts in each of the figures.
"
In manufacturing a boot or shoe according to the present invention the operation
of lasting is the same as for one made on the well known Veldt-Schoen" principle
except that the marginal edge of the upper A instead of being turned outwards
all round, i.e. from the heel on one side to the heel on the other side, is severed
or cut through for about two fifths of an inch more or less, at a point B which
divides the waist C from the forepart D.
The marginal edge A¹ of the upper in the waist i.c. from the waist on the one side
to the waist on the other side by way of the heel, is turned inwards (as shown in
Figures 2 and 3, the insole E in the former figure being partly cut away to expose
the said marginal edge) and temporarily tacked down to the insole in the usual
manner and subsequently sewn, the stitches A³ passing through the insole E,
marginal edge A' of upper and outersole F.
The marginal edge Aª of the upper round the forepart D is turned outwards as
in Veldt-Schoenboots and shoes and laid over the marginal edge of the outer-
sole F and a superposed welt or strip of leather G is placed next to the upper and
sewn, the stitches H passing through the welt G, upper A2 and outersole F.
In some cases the upper is furnished with a lining J when the latter is cut
through at the point B the same as the upper and the stitches A and H respectively
pass through it also.
Further when desired a shank or stiff piece of leather K of usual construction is
interposed between the innersole E and the outersole F of a boot or shoe as indicated
in Figure 3.
It will be observed that the upper is attached (1) at the heel part, to the insole
by tacks L in the usual way, (2) at the waist C by stitches A³ passing through the
innersole E, outersole F and the interposed inturned marginal edge A¹ of the upper
and its lining J and (3) at the forepart by stitches H passing through the welt G
the outersole F and the interposed outwardly turned edge A² of the upper and its
lining J.
In some classes of upper leather it is possible to dispense with the welt G and
connect the upper and its lining (when such is employed) and the outersole together
by stitches as hereinbefore described.
From the foregoing it will be observed that the innersole E is not sewn to the
upper and outersole in the forepart from the point B but is left free and unattached,
which tends to increase the flexibility of this part of the boot or shoe, but if so
desired it can be attached by an elastic cement or solution which forms a less rigid
connection than sewing.
A boot or shoe when made in the manner hereinbefore referred to has a waist
provided with the requisite firmness and rigidity to support the arch of the foot
in its natural position while the forepart of the boot or shoe has a maximum of
flexibility and suppleness which renders it particularly easy and adapted for walk-
ing purposes generally.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. A boot or shoe in which the marginal edge of the upper is slit or cut through
at a point between the waist and the forepart and turned inwardly over the outer-
sole in the waist and outwardly over the outersole in the forepart and connected
thereto by sewing substantially as and for the purpose described.
2. In a boot or shoe in which the upper is treated as described in the foregoing

page_text: claim the combination of an innersole fastened in position by stitches passing
through the waist part only substantially as and for the purpose described.
3. A boot or shoe, the forepart only of which is made upon the "Veldt-Schoen"
principle the other part having the marginal edge of the upper turned inwards
and connected to the outersole substantially as described.
4. The improvements in boots and shoes substantially as described with reference
to the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 7th day of March 1898.
Witness:
E. N. LEWIS,
Berridge Street Chambers, Leicester.
SAMUEL LENNARD.
Boult & Wade,
Agents for the Applicant