Improvements in the Manufacture of Lace, Gimp, Openwork Fabrics, and Analogous Articles.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Aug., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 7th May, 1889
Complete Specification Accepted, 8th June, 1889'
RESERVE C
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Lace, Gimp, Openwork
Fabrics, and Analogous Articles.
1, BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS of 23 Southampton Buildings in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, a
communication to me from abroad by Victorine Dodet of Lyons in the Republic of
Franco, Manufacturer of Embroidery, to be as follows:-
The process which constitutes the object of the present invention is applicable to
embroidery, woven or knitted fabrics, tulle, articles of trimming, and to all combi-
nations of textile or metallic threads obtained by weaving, plaiting, knitting or other
process.
It consists in destroying chemically a more or less important part of the threads
which have served to weave or manufacture these different articles with the object of
obtaining new products distinct from the original products and which could only be
obtained with difficulty or imperfectly without the aid of these auxiliary threads
which disappear after the weaving or manufacture.
Amongst these applications I will mention the manufacture of lace or gimp made
at first in the form of embroidery upon a light ground which is afterwards completely
dissolved by a chemical agent without affecting the embroidery.
This application will now be described as an example.
The groundwork employed is a pure silk fabric and as light as possible so that
there may be less matter to dissolve; it is sufficient if it is strong enough to receive
the embroidery which can be made with textile-or metallic threads of all colors and
shades, plain or combined.
The dissolvent is an ammoniuret of copper prepared specially for this use by means
of a solution of hydro-carbonate of copper in ammonia, which permits of diluting the
liquid according to the-more or less powerful effect which it is desired to obtain in
view of the material of which the embroidery is composed...
When this material is of silk it is necessary to protect it against the action of the
dissolvent, which is done by giving it a charge of salts of lead, tin or any other matter

page_text: used in dyeing for charging silk. This charge will be applied by known processes,
either before or after dyeing, according to the nature of the latter. No protection is
necessary for textiles other than silk no more than for metallic' threads.
I will now describe the mode of carrying the invention into effect.
The embroidery is rolled spirally upon a cylinder of wire cloth, which is rotated
slowly around a horizontal axis and plunging at its lower part in the dissolvent, with
which the embroidery is thus pút in contact by intermission, which facilitates tho
operation, enables its progress to be followed and to be arrested at the proper time,
that is to say, when the ground or foundation is completely dissolved.
A cleansing or washing with ammoniacal water then completes the removal of
every vestige of the foundation or ground, and the lace rinsed in pure water remains
clear and completely perforated.
There now only remains to revive the colors or the metallic lustre, which has been
modified by the dissolvent, which is effected for textile fabrics by their immersion in
an acid bath containing a salt of tin or of alumina, according to the nature of the
the color, and for metallic laces in a bath of alum and cream of tartar.
A final washing finishes the lace which is ready to receive the dressing in the
ordinary manner.
With respect to tissus, tulles, knitted articles, nets, and articles of trimming, it is
easy to understand that they could be transformed into new products by destroying,
by the process above described, a part of the threads which have served to weave or
manufacture thein. These latter will be always of pure silk and as light-as-possible.
The threads to be preserved will also be textile or inetallic in all colors or shades,
plain or mixed, when they are in silk, they will also be protected by a charge
in dyeing.
Nothing will be changed with respect to the ordinary processes of weaving or of
manufacture of these articles except the convenient grouping of two categories of
threads according to the effect to be produced.
The destruction of the useless threads will be effected by the process already
described by always modifying the mechanical part of the operation according to the
form and the dimension of the articles. For fabrics in the piece, the dissolvent or
reviving bathis will be prepared in troughs provided with rollers, analogous to those
employed in dyeing, boiling or washing fabrics.
Datoil th: 711
2
B. J. B. MILLS.
By Harris & Mills,.
23, Southampton Buildings;
Agents.

page_text: CANDID analogous ATCICS.
I, BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS of 23 Southampton Buildings, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention,
a communication to me from abroad by Victorine Dodet, of Lyons, in the Republic of
France, Manufacturer of Embroidery, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained, in and by the following
statement:-
The process which constitutes the object of the present invention. is applicable to
embroidery, woven or knitted fabrics, tullo, articles of trimming, and to all combi-
nations of textile or metallic threads obtained by weaving, plaiting, knitting, or other
process.
It consists in destroying chemically a more or less important part of the threads
which have served to weave or manufacture these different articles, with the object
of obtaining new products distinct from the original products, and which could only
be obtained with difficulty or imperfectly without the aid of these auxiliary threads,
which are caused to disappear after the weaving or manufacture.
Amongst these applications I will mention the manufacture of lace or gimp, made
at first in the form of embroidery upon a light ground, which is afterwards completely
dissolved by a chemical agent, without affecting the embroidery.
This application will now be described as an example.
The groundwork employed is a pure silk fabric and as light as possible, so that
there may be less matter to dissolve; it is sufficient if it is strong enough to receive
the embroidery, which can be made with textile or metallic threads of all colors and
shades, plain or combined.
The dissolvent is an ammoniuret of copper, prepared specially for this use by means
of a solution of a hydro-carbonate of copper in ammonia, which permits of diluting
the liquid, according to the more or less powerful effect which it is desired to obtain
in order to suit the material of which the embroidery is composed.
When this material is of silk, it is necessary to protect it against the action of the
dissolvent, which is done by giving it a charge of salts of lead, tin or any other matter
used in dyeing for charging-silk. This charge will be applied by known processes,
either before or after dyeing, according to the nature of the latter. No protection is
necessary for textiles other than silk, no more than for metallic threads.
I will now describe the mode of carrying the invention into effect.
The embroidery when made is rolled spirally upon a cylinder of wire cloth, which
is rotated slowly around a horizontal axis and immersed at its lower part in the dis-
solvent, with which the embroidery is thus put in contact by intermission, which
facilitates the operation, enables its progress to be followed and to be arrested at
the proper time, that is to say, when the ground or foundation is completely
dissolved.

page_text: No text detected.
Dated this 7th day of May 1883.
B. J. B. MILLS.
By Harris & Mills,
23, Southampton Buildings, London,
Agents.