IMPROVEMENTS IN PROTECTING AND ORNAMENTING THE EDGES AND BORDERS OF FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR THE PURPOSE
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Lindley, of the City of Manchester, Manufacturer,
for the Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN PROTECTING AND ORNAMENTING THE
EDGES AND BORDERS OF FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR THE PURPOSE."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Lindley at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 4th January 1878.
JOSEPH LINDLEY, of the City of Manchester, Manufacturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
PROTECTING AND ORNAMENTING THE EDGES AND BORDERS OF FABRICS, AND IN
MACHINERY FOR THE PURPOSE."
This Invention has for its object improvements in the protection and orna-
mentation of the edges or borders of fabrics, and relate to that class of edging
produced by an edging machine known as Lindley and Taylor's Patent, No. 957,
in the year of our Lord 1862.
The improvements consist, first, in the employment of two or more upper threads,
each controlled and laid beneath the needles in parallel lines and to suit the design
or ornamentation required by a distinct thread guide, and whereby I am enabled
to employ threads or cords of different colors, and so to produce an effect hitherto
unattainable.
In carrying this part of my Invention into effect, I mount the cam or cams
for imparting the requisite reciprocating and vibratory motion on to a single shaft
beneath the table of the machine or on to separate shafts so situated, and I "time"
and arrange the grooves in such cams in such relation to each other that each
upper thread is laid successively upon the fabric, and sewn thereto by distinct
stitches; and by increasing the throw of the thread guides I produce loops or fringe
to the edging, and this formed of threads or cords of the same or different
colors.
My Invention further relates to the production of a crotchet pattern upon the

page_text: edges or borders of fabrics, in addition to and at the same time as the edging is
being made thereupon by Lindley and Taylor's edging machine before mentioned.
In performing this part of my Invention, in addition to the eye-pointed and
bearded needles and presser hitherto employed by Lindley and Taylor, I use addi-
tional crotchet, Bonnaz or other suitable hooked or bearded, needles (herein-after
called the crotchet needles), placed alongside, and actuated by the same mechanism
as the eye-pointed and other needles, and each provided with suitable pressers (or
nipples in the case of the Bonnaz needles); and beneath the table of the machine I
either arrange an additional shaft or speed up the ordinary cam shaft to actuate a
series of fingers, which are designed by means of loops or eyes at their extremities
to throw a series of threads drawn from a creel across and around the crotchet
needles as they are down at their lowest position, and so that the same may be
drawn upwards through the loops formed by such needles, and so produce a crotchet
pattern at the edge of the fabric in combination with the edging produced at the
same time by the Lindley and Taylor's mechanism.
The necessary motion is imparted to these fingers by mounting them partly upon
a spindle which is capable of motion in the direction of its axis, and also of a
fractional revolving motion, and partly upon a sleeve which slides over such spindle,
and is capable of similar motions in the same or in reverse directions, the former
motion being obtained by the spindle and sleeve, being each embraced by a distinct
fork in connection with a lever having a bowl or stud working against the side of
a cam plate or in a groove formed in a cam, and the latter by an arm working
against a tappet or eccentric.
Instead of producing the crotchet pattern, as herein-before mentioned, I sometimes
produce a series of chain stitches side by side by means of the crotchet or other
needles, and employ a thread guide and thread or threads for connecting such chain
stitches together to form the pattern required.
For producing the crotchet pattern upon the border or surface of the fabric the
interlocking thread or threads are arranged to be operated by suitable guides acting
above the top surface of the fabric.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Joseph Lindley in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 4th July
1878.
JOSEPH LINDLEY, of the City of Manchester, Manufacturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
PROTECTING AND ORNAMENTING THE EDGES AND BORDERS OF FABRICS, AND IN
MACHINERY FOR THE PURPOSE."
This Invention has for its object improvements in the protection and orna-
mentation of the edges or borders of fabrics, and relates to that class of edging
produced by an edging machine known as Lindley and Taylor's Patent, No. 957,
A.D. 1862.
The improvements consist, first, in the employment of two or more upper threads,
each controlled and laid beneath the needles in parallel lines, or to suit the design
or ornamentation required by a distinct thread guide, and whereby I am enabled
to employ threads or cords of different colors, and so to produce an effect hitherto
unattainable.
And in order that this part of my said Invention may be the more readily
understood and carried into practical effect, I have hereunto annexed a Drawing,
Sheet 1, illustrative of my improved mechanism for ornamenting the edges or borders
of fabrics.
Fig. 1 is a plan partly in section, and Fig. 2 a side view of a machine embodying
my improvements.
Fig. 3 is a diagram shewing one specimen of the work produced by this part of
my improved mechanism, the upper cords being laid upon and secured to the edge
of the fabric in parallel lines, as illustrated.
As the mechanism which I employ for forming the ordinary sewing stitch and
crochet stitch for securing the upper cords in position upon the edge or border of
the fabric is substantially the same as that used by Lindley and Taylor, as aforesaid,
and is well know in the market, I will confine my description particularly to points
of novelty in my machine.
On the bottom shaft A (which is geared as usual to revolve at equal speed with
the top shaft A¹) I mount a loose sleeve B, which carries a cam C at one extremity,
and is geared at the other extremity so as to revolve at one-fourth the speed of the
shaft A by means of the spur wheel C¹ and pinion C9 upon the intermediate or
driving shaft C. The cam C is provided with a single cam groove C³ (shewn
"unrolled" in diagram, Fig. 4) designed to impart the requisite reciprocating and
vibrating motion to a pair of guides marked respectively D and E, and each of
which carries a distinct thread or cord (herein-after called the ornamenting
cords).
The guide D which carries in its eye d the ornamenting cord D' (see the diagram,
Fig. 3) is connected to the two stationary and adjustable pins F and F¹ by the
radius links F2 and F3, one of which is longer than the other, as illustrated. The
rear extremity of this guide D is provided with a pin F passing through a slot F*
in the lever G mounted upon the fixed stud G³, and this lever on its inner side is
provided with a friction bowl running in the cam groove C³, and so receiving its
motion from such cam groove. The other guide E carries in its eye e the other
ornamenting cord E¹, and is located partly beneath the first-mentioned guide, and
is connected to the two stationary and adjustable pins H and H by the radius
links H2 and H³; but in this case the longer radius link H³ is extended backwards,
and connected by the universal joint H to a pin H projecting from the inner side
of the lever I, which is provided with a friction bowl running in the same cam
groove, but at the opposite side of the machine, and so partaking of its motion.
This peculiar arrangement and mounting of the guides D and E enables them
to act in proper relation to each other, and so as to lay the threads in parallel lines,
as herein-after more particularly described.

page_text: It is obvious that the same motion of the thread guide could be otherwise
produced.
Besides the ordinary eye-pointed needle J and crochet needle K, I employ along-
side the latter a vertical needle wire L, which moves up and down with the other
needles, and forms. a centre round which the front edge of the ornamenting cords
turn whilst being laid by the guides upon the edge or border of the fabric being
ornamented. M is the hook for taking the loop from the side of the eye-pointed
needle whilst it is in the lowest position, and passing it over or in the way of the
point of the crochet needle. This hook is connected by a link N to the lever N¹,
having on its inner. side a frictional bowl taking into a groove O formed in the cam
Okeyed upon the shaft A, and thus such hook receives its throw by the revolution
of such cam.
The action of this machine may be described as follows:-The ornamenting
cords D and E¹ being supplied to the loops of the guides from bobbins, or
in any other convenient manner, the first action of the machine, assuming the
needles and guides to be in the position illustrated in the Drawing, is for the guide
D to be moved by the action of the cam groove C³ across the front of the needles
to the extent of its throw, and thus to lay a corresponding length of its ornamenting
cord D¹ beneath the needles, and parallel or nearly so with the previous layer of
the same cord, as seen in diagrain, Fig. 3. The guide D then dwells (remains
stationary), whilst the other guide E is moved by the action of the same cam
groove, not only across the front of the needles, but back again to the starting
point, having meanwhile laid two layers of the cord E' alongside each other in
parallel directions or nearly so, as seen in the diagram, Fig. 3, when the guide D
returns to the starting point, and the whole operation is repeated.
Now, as the shafts A and A¹ revolve at four times the speed of the cam C, it will
be readily understood that each layer of the ornamenting cord, as it is laid upon
the fabric by the action of the guides, is sewn and secured thereto by distinct
stitches of the eye-pointed and crochet needles after the manner of Lindley and
Taylor's Patent, as aforesaid.
Although I have only illustrated and described two ornamenting cords as
arranged in parallel directions, it will be apparent that more than two cords might
be so applied, and that by altering the shape of the cam groove C³, and the adjust-
ment of the pins F and F¹, and H and H', the laying of the cords may be arranged
to assume a different pattern or edging, and even to cross each other, and that a
fringe or loops may be formed thereupon by increasing the throw of the guides
beyond the edge of the fabric.
By means of this Invention I am also enabled, by using ornamenting cords of
different colors, to produce an effect hitherto unattainable.
Instead of having a distinct guide for each ornamenting cord, I sometimes
arrange two or more distinct loops or eyes in a single guide, and thus approximate
to the effect produced by two or more distinct guides for laying the ornamenting
cord; and in this case I sew and secure the two or more ornamenting cords to the
fabric by stitches embracing both or all the cords so laid.
Instead of using the precise combination of needles, herein-before described, I
sometimes vary such combination; or I can employ Bonnaz or self-acting needles
for the purpose of my Invention by varying the machine accordingly.
My Invention further relates to the production of a crochet pattern upon the
edges or borders of fabric, in addition to and at the same time as the edging is
being made thereupon by Lindley and Taylor's edging machine before mentioned.
I produce a series of chain stitches side by side by means of the crochet or other
needles, and employ a thread guide or threads for connecting such chain stitches
together to form the pattern required.
On Sheet 2 of the accompanying Drawing, Fig. 1 is a side elevation; and Fig. 2,
a front view drawn about one-half full size, illustrating my arrangement of
mechanism for producing a crochet pattern upon the edges or borders of fabrics,

page_text: Lindley
The combination of mechanism illustrated is designed to produce the "
and Taylor edging," and also at the same time an ornamental crochet pattern.
For this purpose to produce the Lindley and Taylor edging, I employ the eye-
pointed needle a worked by the cam mounted in the head 6 in the ordinary
manner; but, instead of using the ordinary bearded crochet needle, I employ a
"self-acting" crochet needle c (see side view, Fig. 1a) worked from the arm d
mounted under the table "e."
I also employ a special construction of thread guide, so as to leave the surface
of the table clear for the subsequent operations. These consist in forming an
extension f upon the reciprocating bar which drives the needle "a," and from which
I project a pin and bowl "g," working in a groove "h" formed in the bar "i"
depending from the stud "j" which is attaced to the head b.
From the shape and angle of this groove h (see Fig. 1), it will be apparentt hat as
the bowl g reciprocates in a vertical direction the bar i will receive a corresponding
movement from side to side.
Upon the bar i, at its upper end, I mount a second bark depending from the
joint 1, the lower end of this bar "k" being pivoted to a radius bar "m," so that as
this bar k receives its motion from the first bar "i" its lower end is compelled,
owing to the action of the radius bar "m" to describe an arc of a circle around
the fixed centre of the radius bar "m." The thread carrier "n" is affixed to the
bar "k," and thus the eye of such thread carrier receives the requisite circular
action for laying the thread in the formation of the Lindley and Taylor edging.
«
The thread carrier for throwing the thread from the eye-pointed needle to the
'self-acting" crotchet needle in this case will be below the table, and is an ordinary
"Grover and Baker" thread carrier, and sufficiently well known to require no
further description, and is consequently not shewn on the Drawing, to avoid
unnecessary complication.
In producing an ornamental crotchet pattern in conjunction with this edging,
such as the pattern seen in Fig. 3, I use additional self-acting crochet needles
o, o², and o³, secured to the arm d to produce a series of chain stitches, these
stitches being connected together by diagonal threads p carried by suitable thread
guides, as will be herein-after explained.
The additional " self-acting "crotchet needles o', o2, and 0³ are carried, as
herein-before described, by the arm & branching from the parallel bar q controlled
by the radius bars and 2. A vertical reciprocating motion is imparted to this
parallel bar by connecting it through the connecting rod "8" with the crank t
situated on the end of the shaft u, and driven by the spur wheel "v" in the
ordinary manner.
On the upper side of the table w I mount a set of ordinary thread carriers (not
shewn in the Drawing), so that as the self-acting crotchet needles rise through
the table they receive the necessary throwing action of the threads to produce the
crochet stitch.
The effect of this action of these crotchet needles is, therefore, to produce a series
of rows of crotchet stitches in conjunction with the edging.
I employ these rows of crotchet stitches as binding stitches, and connect them
together, so as to form the diagonal openwork by using a series of stronger threads
or cords guided across the path of the crotchet stitches in a diagonal direction, and
which are thus interlaced or crotched together at the points of intersection to
produce the pattern seen in Fig. 3.
For this purpose I employ a set of double snail cams 1, 2, and 3, fast upon the
spindle 4, and which is driven through the worm 5 and worm wheel 6 from the
shaft "
u." These cams drive a series of slides 7, 8, and 9 through a set of levers
10, 11, and 12, corresponding in number, and having at their extremities eyelets or
thread guides 13, 14, and 15 see Fig. 3. The cams 1, 2, and 3 are set upon the
spindle 4, each one-third of a rovolution in advance of its predecessor; and, as the
cam has four decreasing and then four increasing steps, the effect upon the threads

page_text: passing through the eyelets 13, 14, and 15 is to lay them in a regular diagonal
direction, each thread so laid at the point of intersection with any of its fellow
threads being looped or crotched together by the self-acting crotchet needles as they
come up through the table.
In order to unite this diagonal openwork to the edging, I arrange the thread
guides 13, 14, and 15 to travel slightly beyond the crotchet needle c, which forms
the edging, so that the diagonal threads pass round this needle, and are crotched
down to the edging, as such needle is in the act of forming the edging itself.
Fig. 3 shews a full size view of the work produced, both with and without the
fringe, and also the action of the diagonal thread layers may be more perfectly
understood by observing the arrows on this Fig.
In addition to the diagonal openwork, herein-before described, I work a fringe upon
the outer edge of the openwork (see Fig. 3) at the same time by means of mechanism
similar to that used in Lindley and Taylor's fringing machine, and operated from a
cam upon the shaft "u"; but, as this mechanism does not differ in any material
degree from the before-mentioned Lindley & Faylors mechanism, I have not shewn
upon the Drawing.
In Figs. 4 and 5 (which are respectively a side and end view) I shew a modifi-
.cation of my Invention for producing the crotchet pattern by means of crotchet
needles alone, and without the addition of any diagonal threads. This is effected
by employing a set of thread carriers a, of which three are mounted upon a holder b,
and two upon a second holder c. The holder b is worked by the internal slide d,
and the holder c by the external slide "e"; these slides d and e are respectively
driven through the levers ƒ and g and bowls h and i by the face cam jupon the
lower shaft "." The face of this cam is so cut and formed as to cause the thread
carriers a to change their position at every stroke of the needles l, so throwing the
crotchet threads from one needle to another, and causing the threads to inter-
lock with one another in a regular manner, the form of pattern produced being
determined by the shape of the face of the cam j.
The necessary throwing motion of the thread carriers is produced by the tappet
"m" upon the upper shaft n, and which at the proper instant strikes a lever o keyed
fast upon the external slide e.
"
Instead of using ordinary bearded crotchet needles 7, as illustrated, it will be
obvious that the same effect could be produced by "self-acting" crotchet needles
(see Fig. 1a) worked from below, and mounting the same or equivalent throwing
mechanism above the table; or Bonnaz needles with nipples worked above would
give a similar result.
With regard to Figs. 1 and 2, I would observe that a modification might be
produced by dispensing with the diagonal threads, and by employing one or more
thread carriers to bind the parallel rows of crotchet stitches together at intervals
after the manner of lace-making machinery, such thread carriers being mounted
similarly to the slides (d) and e, Figs. 4 and 5. This arrangement would produce
a crotchet pattern, and which could be varied by altering the shape of the
cam j.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of this my said
Invention, together with the best methods with which I am acquainted for carrying
the same into practical effect, I wish it to be distinctly understood that I make no
claim to the Lindley and Taylor mechanism herein-before mentioned, except in com-
bination with my improved mechanism as aforesaid, and that I do not confine
myself to the precise details, relative proportions, or dimentions of the various parts
of the mechanism herein-before described, and illustrated on the accompanying
Drawing, as the same may be considerably varied without departing from the
Invention; and I claim,-
1st. The simultaneous laying and securing of two or more ornamenting cords in
parallel, zig-zag, or other required lines upon the edges or borders of fabrics, sub-
stantially as and for the purposes described.

page_text: 2nd. The use and application of the guides for laying the ornamenting cords
when mounted and operated, substantially as and for the purposes heroin-before
described with reference to Figs. 1 and 2, Sheet 1, of the accompanying Drawing.
3rd. The simultaneous production and securing upon the edges or borders of a
fabric of an edging combined with a crotchet pattern and fringe, substantially
as and for the purposes described.
4th. The improved combination and arrangement of machinery shewn and
described, with reference to Sheet 2 of the accompanying Drawing.
5th. The use and application of "self-acting
crotchet needles when mounted
and operated, substantially as and for the purposes described.
6th. The use and application and method of actuating the thread guides described,
in reference to Fig. 1 and 2, Sheet 2, for laying the diagonal threads, substantially
as and for the purposes described.
7th. With reference to Fig. 4 and 5, Sheet 2, the novel arrangement and com-
bination of thread carriers operated from the cam j for producing a crotchet
pattern, as and for the purposes described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Lindley, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this 3rd day of July, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and seventy-eight.
JOSEPH LINDLEY. (L.S.)