Improvements in and relating to a Machine for Cutting-out Flies for Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1890

page_text: COMPLETE DEMIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to a Machine for Cutting-out Flies
for Boots and Shoes.
I, GEORGE VALIANT, a subject of the Queen of Great Britain, residing at
Toronto, in the Dominion of Canada, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Figure 1 shows a plan view of my improved machine prepared for cutting a
button-hole fly:
Figure 2 a transverse section of the same on line -, of Figure 1 ;
Figure 3 a detail sectional view showing the construction of the adjustable pivot
used for the clamps :
Figure 4 a detail bottom plan view of the nut on the lower end of such pivot;
Figure 5 a detail perspective view of the part of the cutting devices for cutting
the upper end portion of the fly;
Figure 6 a bottom plan view of such devices with the gauge fly or pattern strip
removed.
Figure 7 a view of a section on line y-y, of Figure 1;
Figure 8 a detail perspective view of one of the slides for holding the inner edge
cutting knife;
Figure 9 a detail bottom plan view of a portion of the machine showing the gauge
strip or pattern fly determining the relative positions of the parts;
Figure 10 a plan view of the gauge fly or pattern strip;
Figure 11 a plan view of my machine as adapted for cutting lace hole strips;
Figure 12 a similar view with a different arrangement of knives for cutting the
strip edges;
Figure 13 a view in elevation of one of the cutter slides shown in Figure 11;
Figure 14 a bottom plan view of two of such slides showing the action of the
gauge or pattern strip.
Letters of like name and kind refer to like parts in each of the figures.
The object of my invention is to provide an improved machine for cutting out
flies for boots and shoes, and to this end-
My invention consists in the machine, and in the construction, arrangement and
combination of parts thereof, as hereinafter specified.
In the drawings, A, designates a table or support for the operative parts of my
machine. On this table, along each side thereof, are fixed the blocks, A', A', A¹,
forming journal bearings in which is journaled a shaft, A2, provided between the
blocks with eccentric portions, A3, A3. All such eccentric portions
on a shaft
have their parts of greatest eccentricity on the same side of the shaft. Upon the end
of each shaft is a handle, A', by which the shaft can be rotated, as desired.
Resting upon table or support, A, is the plate, B, having portions, B', B¹, at each
side projecting between the blocks or shaft bearings, A', A', A', on plate, A, and
under the eccentrics, A3, A3, on the shaft journaled in such bearings.
As shown in the drawings, the table or support, A, is depressed at each side, so
as to leave the portions upon which are bearing blocks, A', A', A', lower than the
rest or main part of the table. The plate, B, is correspondingly formed, so as to
fit the table. This depression of the sides of the table and plate brings the bearing
blocks, A', A', down out of the way below the level or plane of the edges of the
cutters to be described.
Resting on the plate, B; are the blocks, C, C, preferably one for each button-hole
or lace-hole to be cut in the fly.
In the machine as arranged for cutting button-hole flies, each of these movable

page_text: blocks has a flat elongated base resting upon the plate, B, and of sufficient length
to allow it to be firmly engaged and clamped upon said plate by a clamp to be
described hereinafter. In this base is a longitudinal slot, c, and on its under side is
the longitudinal groove or way, c', made wider than the slot.
On the inner end of the base of each block, C, is the upright portion or standard, C',
provided with an opening or passage, c, extending through it in a direction parallel
with the slot, c, in the block base. In the top of such upright or standard is the
transverse groove, c³, preferably having its inner wall slightly rounded or convex,
as shown, and tapped through the outer side of such groove, is the set screw, c.
Resting in the grooves, c³, e³, in the series of block uprights is the flexible knife, D,
held firmly in place by the set screws clamping it against the middle points of the
convex inner walls of the grooves, as shown in the drawings. This knife, whose
edge is turned upward, is for cutting the outer edge of the fly. To give it the proper
bend or curvature at the end where the upper end of the fly is to be cut, I have
provided the block, E, having in its top the curved groove, e, to receive and hold
the knife at its bend or angle, and the set screw, e', to clamp the knife against the
inner side of the groove. This block can be separate from the adjacent block, C,
and be clamped to the plate, B, in any desired way, but I prefer to hinge it to such
adjacent block, as shown, by means of an ear or lug, e2, and a pivot pin or screw, e³,
passing through such lug into block, C. In the bottom of this angle-block, E, is
the way, e, preferably rectangular in cross section, extending in a direction parallel
to the portion of the groove, e, furthest from the block, C, to which the block, E, is
hinged. That is, the groove, e, in the bottom of the block, takes the direction of
the portion of groove e, beyond the bend or angle therein.
For cutting the required button-holes, cach block, C, is provided with a button-
hole cutter, F, whose cutting edge is of the well-known form and construction
adapted for cutting both the slit and the enlargement of a button-hole. As shown,
each of such cutters rests upon a horizontal arm or bracket, C2, on the inner side of
the respective block standard or upright, C'.
As it is sometimes desirable to vary the angle of the button-hole cutter with
relation to the knife for cutting the outer edge of the fly, I make the cutter
adjustable on its support. With this purpose in view, the cutter is on its lower side
provided with a round pivotal projection, f, engaging a correspondingly shaped
recess, f¹, in the arm or support, C. Such pivotal projection is vertically below
the centre of the loop in the cutter edge, so that as the cutter is swung on its pivot,
the loop in the edge will always be the same distance from the edge cutting knife.
An opening, 2, is made down through the arm, C2, to form a continuation of the
vertical opening, ³, in the button-hole cutter for allowing downward and outward
passage of the pieces cut from the fly.
On the inner side of the base of the button-hole cutter is a lug, /, provided with
a slot, f', concentric with the axis of rotation of the cutter, and passing through
such slot into arm, C2, is a set screw, f, for fastening the cutter at any desired
point of its swing.
Passing through an opening, in under side of the upright, C', on each block, C,
is the bar, G, adapted to be adjusted longitudinally with reference to the base of
block, C. For fastening it at any desired adjustment, a screw, g, is provided,
passing through a portion of the bar and down through the slot, c. On the lower
end of this screw is the nut, g', situated and fitting in the way, c', so as to be
capable of sliding, but not turning therein. With this construction, obviously, if
the screw, g, be loosened, the bar, G, can be moved longitudinally, and if it be
tightened, the bar will be clamped firmly to the block, C.
.
The bar, G, where it passes under the clearing opening in the button-hole cutter
and the cutter supporting arm is provided with a longitudinal slot, g², adapted to
always leave a clear passage for the chips or cuttings to work down and out, what-
ever the adjustment of the bar may be.
Each bar, G, is also arched or cut away on its under side at 3, to allow ready
removal of any chips or cuttings made during the use of the machine. Upon its

page_text: turther end, beyond such arched or cut-away portion, each bar is provided with a
lownward extension or foot, g, to rest upon the plate, B, and with an upright
portion or standard, G', on its upper side.
A
Sach upright portion has in its upper end the transverse groove or slot, go, to
receive the flexible knife, H, for cutting the inner or attaching edge of the fly.
set-screw,, tapped through a portion of the upright, and projecting into slot, go,
serves to clamp the knife in place against the side of the slot, which, like the sides
of grooves, ³, c³, is made slightly convex.
The angle block, E, is provided with a bar, I, fitting and sliding in the way, e',
in the bottom of the block. Such bar, like bars, G, G, has an upright portion, 1',
on its upper side at its further. end. In the top of this upright portion is the
transverse groove or slot, i, for receiving the end of the flexible knife, H, and also
the groove or slot, i, substantially in line with the end of groove, e, in the angle
block, E, and adapted to receive the end of knife, D.
A set screw, 2, serves to clamp the end of knife, H, in slot, i, while a similar
screw, 3, serves a like purpose with relation to the end of knife, D.
As shown in the drawings, while the rest of the bars, G, G, are made in one
piece, the bar with which the block, C, nearest the angle block, E, is provided, is
formed differently. Its outer portion, comprising the slotted upright and the
downward projection or foot, is hinged to the main part of the bar by means of two
ears or lugs, g, g', embracing a projection, 98, on the bar, and the pivot, g³ passing
through such ears or projections.
This construction allows the outer portion of the bar to be swung to stand at an
angle to the main portion of the bar.
To fasten it as adjusted by swinging on its pivot, I provide the set-screw, g10,
tapped through the outer end of the swinging part of the bar, and adapted to
engage the end of the projection, 98, on the bar proper.
For cutting the lower end of the fly, there is a block, K, having the flat portion
resting on plate B, and the upright portion to which is fastened by screws, or in
any desired way, the short knife, L, of the proper curvature to give the end of the
fly the desired shape.
To fasten the blocks, C, C, in place, as adjusted, on the plate, B, I provide the
pivoted clamping levers, M, preferably one for each block. Each of these levers is
pivoted to a standard, M', extending up through a slot, M2, in the plate B, and
on its lower end tapped into a block or base, M³, resting on the table, A. This
base is, as shown, broader than slot, M2, and is situated in a groove, M, on the
under side of the plate, B. The slot and groove run in such direction as to allow
the pivoted standard and base to be moved in toward the centre of the plate, B, or
outward, as desired.
The base, M³, is of such thickness that when the plate, B, is clamped down upon
the table, A, as hereinbefore described, the top of the groove or recess, M', engages
the top of the base and clamps it firmly down in place on the table. The clamping
levers are then pivoted on adjustable fulcra.
The inner end of each clamping lever is adapted to engage the outwardly
extending base of one of the blocks, C, so as to clamp it down firmly in place, as
adjusted on the plate, B. To hold the clamping end of the lever down, its other
end is provided with a screw, N, tapped through the lever end, and extending down
through a slot, N', in the plate, B, into engagement with the table, A.
A similarly constructed and acting clamp is provided for engaging the bar, I, in
the groove in the bottom of the angle block, E, and clamping such bar at any
desired adjustment.
The block, K, carrying the short knife for cutting the lower end of the fly is also
clamped in place by a clamp just like those for the blocks, C, C, and bar, I.
With my construction of blocks and clamps therefor, obviously, the blocks can
be quickly and easily moved in or out on the table, or swung to any desired angles
with relation to each other, and clamped to remain firmly as adjusted.
My machine, as shown and described, is especially intended for use in connection

page_text: with gauge or pattern strips, the idea being to have such patterns made of the
desired shapes, and the machine readily adjustable to such patterns so as to cut out
correspondingly shaped flies. With this end in view, I have provided each block, C,
with two points or gauge lugs, 0, 0, to engage the outer edge of the fly pattern, P,
on a line vertically below the portion of the fly edge cutting knife, D, carried by
the respective block.
Where the fly to be cut is a button-hole fly, the fly pattern is provided with a
series of holes, p, p, each one corresponding in position with the enlarged portion or
loop of a button-hole.
Each block, C, is then provided with a stud, p', situated vertically below the loop
portion of the button-hole cutter on the block, such stud being intended for engaging
one of the holes, p, p, in the pattern fly or strip.
Each bar, G, is provided with a gauge point, g, situated vertically below the
portion of knife carried by the respective bar, adapted to engage the inner or
attaching edge of the pattern fly. With this point in engagement with the fly edge,
the part of the knife, H, above the point, must then be vertically above the pattern
fly edge.
The under side of the bar, I, connected with the angle block, E, has a longitudinal
shoulder,, adapted to engage the upper end of the pattern fly. Such shoulder is
situated vertically below the part of the knife, D, held in the slot, , in the
standard, I', on the bar.
When the shoulder is in contact with the end of the pattern fly, the knife above
will be directly over the edge of such end, and will be in position to cut a fly end
precisely like that of the pattern fly.
The hinged connection between the angle block, E, and the adjacent block, C,
allows such swinging of the former block and the bar, I, as to adjust the angle of
the knife, D, at the upper end of the fly, to any required degree.
As the angle between the edge of the upper end of a fly, and the button-hole
edge varies but slightly in different flies, much swinging of the block, E, need not
be provided for.
The operation of my machine as arranged for cutting button-hole flies for boots
and shoes, is as follows:-
The pattern fly, P, which can be of metal, wood, cardboard, paper, or other
material, having been prepared of the desired shape with the proper arrangement
of guide holes for establishing the positions of the button-holes, it is laid on
plate, B.
The blocks, C, C, are then placed over it with the guide points, O, O, on their
under sides engaging the outer side of the pattern fly, and the button-hole. guide
studs, p, p, engaging the guide holes, p, p, in said pattern.
The bars G are slid out or in until their gauge points or lugs, 9", gl, engage the
inner edge of the pattern fly and are then fixed by tightening up the screws, g, 9,
clamping them to the blocks."
The angle block, E, is swung to bring its shoulder against the pattern fly end,
and the bar, I, is moved out or in to bring the knife holding slot, i, substantially in
line with the corresponding slot in the bar, G, carried by the adjacent block, C.
As the blocks are adjusted in place, they are clamped securely in position on the
plate, B, by the clamps already described herein before.
The block, K, with the short knife, L, for cutting the lower end of the fly, is
adjusted to position against the end of the pattern fly and is then clamped in such
position by its respective clamp.
With the series of guide points or studs, 0, 0, on the blocks, C, C, all in
engagement with the outer edge of the pattern fly, the knife carried by the blocks
will have the same curvature precisely as the outer edge of such fly.
In the same way, the knife, H, carried by the uprights on the bars, G, G, will,
when the guide points on all the bars are in contact with the edge of pattern fly,
have precisely the curvature of the inner edge of such fly. If it is desired to alter
the curvature of the knife, H, near the upper end of the pattern fly from what it

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page_text: are placed on the table or plate, B, side by side, will form continuous cutting edges
for cutting the whole of the outer and inner edges of the fly.
With the two guide points, 8, 8, engaging the curved outer edge of the pattern
strip, and the single point, », engaging the inner edge thereof, the various
blocks, R, R, must conform in their relative positions to the curvature of the
pattern strip.
The fly edge cutting knives will then have the exact curvature of the outer and
inner edges, respectively, of the pattern strip.
With the pins, 10, 10, engaging the guide holes, p³, p², in the pattern strip,
the respective punches, 75, 7, above must be in position to punch lace-holes in
the strip having the exact relative location of the guide holes in the pattern
strip.
With my machine as described and shown, button-hole flies and lace-hole strips
can be cut of any size or configuration desired, without the necessity of careful and
laborious adjustment of the parts to prepare them for cutting the desired fly or
strip.
With the pattern for any fly or strip cut out, all that is necessary is to place the
blocks over the pattern, bring the guide points or shoulders into engagement with
its edges, and the hole guide studs or pins into engagement with the guide holes,
and then clamp the blocks in place on the table. The machine is then ready to cut
out a fly corresponding exactly with the pattern.
The whole adjustment requires merely the moving of the parts to bring them
properly into engagement with the pattern fly or strip, and then the clamping or
fastening of such parts as adjusted.
The pattern flies or strips can be kept on hand in any number and variety to suit
the needs of the manufacturer.
With a set of patterns, which can be most easily and cheaply made of any
desired material, the bot or shoe manufacturer, having my machine, is prepared
to cut out any shape of fly or lace-hole, and any number of different shapes
thereof without any necessity of delay, or nice adjustment, or change of his
machinery.
The walls of the grooves or slots in the blocks and bars against which the flexible
knives are clamped by the set screws, are preferably made rounded or convex, as
shown, in order to allow for considerable change in the curvature of the knives, as
the blocks and bars are adjusted to different positions. The rounded convex form
of such clamping walls is, however, not necessary, as the curvature of the wall does
not define the curve of the knife.
The knife clamping wall of the groove or slot in either block or bar can be cut
away at any desired angle, or to any degree on opposite sides of its central portion
opposite the end of the respective set screw.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a machine for cutting leather, in combination with a suitable support and a
pattern of the form to be cut out, a series of adjustable pieces having guides to
engage the pattern and knives carried by such pieces, substantially as and for the
purpose specified.
2. In a machine for cutting leather, in combination with a suitable support, a
series of adjustable blocks on such support provided with cutters for cutting out the
edges of the form, and having suitable guides adapted to engage a pattern of the
form to be cut, so as to ensure the proper position of the cutters to cut out a piece
like the pattern, substantially as and for the purpose shown.
3. In a machine for cutting out button-hole flies or lace-hole strips, in com-
bination with a suitable support and a pattern of the fly or strip having guide
openings to locate the holes to be cut in the fly or strip, a series of adjustable pieces

page_text: on the support having guides to engage the pattern edges and guide pins to engage
the holes in the pattern, and the edge and hole cutters, carried by the adjustable
pieces, substantially as and for the purpose described.
4. In a machine for cutting out a button-hole fly, or lace-hole strip, in com-
bination with a suitable support, a pattern fly or strip having in it guide holes to
locate the holes to be cut, adjustable blocks on the support having guides to engage
the outer edge of the pattern and lugs to engage the guide holes in the latter, a
flexible knife attached to the adjustable pieces and cutters on such pieces for
cutting the desired holes in the strip or fly, substantially as and for the purpose
specified.
5. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies and lace-hole strips for boots and
shoes, in combination with a suitable support, an adjustable block carrying a
cutter to cut the edges of the fly or strip, and a cutter to cut the desired hole in
the same, and provided with a guide to engage the edge of a pattern of the fly or
strip, and a stud to engage a guide hole in such pattern, substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
6. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies or lace-hole strips, a block carrying
a cutter to cut the edge of the fly or strip, and a cutter to cut the desired hole
therein, and provided with a guide adapted to engage the outer edge of a pattern
of the fly or strip, such guide having two points to engage the pattern edge,
and the guide lug or pin on the block equi-distant from the two guide points
adapted to engage a guide hole in the pattern, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
7. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies or lace-hole strips, a block provided
with the two points to engage the edge of a pattern fly or strip, and with a pin
equi-distant from such points to engage a guide hole in such pattern, the edge
cutter supported on the block, and the cutter for cutting, the desired hole in the fly
or strip situated in line with the pin on the block, substantially as and for the purpose
specified.
8. In combination with the block provided with the guide adapted to engage the
edge of a pattern at two different points, a cutter fastened to the block above such
guide and parallel to a line connecting the pattern engaging points of the latter,
substantially as and for the purpose shown.
9. In combination with the flexible knife for cutting the outer edge of a button-
hole fly, a series of adjustable knife-holding blocks on a suitable support, each
having a guide adapted to engage a pattern fly at two different points, and
a pin equi-distant from such points adapted to engage guide holes in the pattern,
and the button-hole cutters on the blocks, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
10. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies for boots and shoes, in combination
with a cutter for cutting one edge of the fly, a block provided with a holder to
engage such cutter and with a guide to engage one edge of a pattern fly, a piece
adjustably connected with the block, having a guide to engage the other edge of
the pattern, and a holder, and a cutter in such holder to cut the corresponding edge
of the fly, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
11. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies the adjustable block having a
holder for an edge cutting knife, and the guide adapted to engage the outer edge of
a pattern of the desired Hy at two different points, the piece adjustably connected
with such block, having a holder for the knife for cutting the inner edge of the fly,
and a guide to engage the corresponding edge of the fly pattern, and the two edge
cutting knives in the holders on the block and piece, substantially as and for the
purpose shown.
12. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies in combination with the two knives
for cutting the edges of the fly, the block for supporting and holding the knife for
cutting the outer edge of the fly, having the guide to engage the corresponding
edge of a pattern of such fly, and a sliding bar longitudinally adjustable on
the block, provided with a guide to engage the inner edge of the fly pattern, and

page_text: with a holder for the inner edge cutter, substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
13. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies for boots and shoes, in combination
with a suitable support, the series of adjustable blocks thereon each having a guide
to engage the outer edge of a pattern of the fly to be cut, the sliding bars
adjustably connected with the blocks and each having a guide to engage the inner
edge of the pattern fly, the flexible knife attached to the blocks and the similar
knife attached to the bars, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
14. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies for boots and shoes, in combination
with a suitable support and the pattern fly of the desired shape having holes to
locate the button holes, the adjustable blocks each having a guide adapted to engage
the outer edge of the pattern at two points, and the pin or stud for engaging one of
the guide holes in the pattern, the sliding bars adjustably connected with the blocks
and each having a guide to engage the inner edge of the pattern fly, the flexible
knife connected with and supported by the bars, and the flexible knife attached to
the adjustable blocks, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
15. In combination with two cutters for cutting the fly edges, and the button-hole
cutter, the block carrying the cutter for cutting the outer edge of the fly and the
button-hole cutter, the sliding bar below the button-hole cutter adjustably connected
with the block, and having the slot to allow the passage of chips from the button-
hole cutter, and at its outer end adapted to receive and hold the cutter for cutting
the inner fly edge, substantially as and for the purpose described.
16. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies in combination with the adjustable
block to which the edge cutting knife is attached, the sliding bar adjustably attached
to the block, having its outer end, to which the other edge cutting knife is attached,
hinged, and a set screw to fasten such end as swung on its hinge, substantially as
and for the purpose specified.
17. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies for boots and shoes, in combination
with the knife for cutting the outer fly edge, the block to which such cutting knife
is attached, the block hinged to such block and having the curved holder way for
the knife, extending from the other block, substantially as and for the purpose
shown.
18. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies for boots and shoes, in combination
with the flexible knife for cutting the edge of the fly, the block having a holder for
the knife, and the block hinged to such block, having a knife holder adapted to hold
the knife bent at an angle, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
19. In a mechanism for cutting button-hole flies, in combination with the flexible
knife, the block having a holder for such knife, and the block hinged thereto and
having a holder adapted to hold the knife bent at an angle to the portion held in the
former block, and means for fastening the hinged block as adjusted on its hinge,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
20. In combination with the flexible knife, the block having a surface to engage
the side of the knife, and a set screw to force and hold the knife against such
surface, and the block hinged to such other block having its knife engaging surface
curved to stand at an angle to the corresponding surface on such block and a set
screw to engage the knife, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
21. In combination with the flexible knife, and the block having the curved
holder to hold the knife bent at an angle, the bar sliding in a way in the block sub-
stantially parallel to the outer end of the curved knife holder, and having a holder
to engage the end of the knife, and a guide shoulder adapted to engage the end of
a pattern of the piece to be cut, substantially as and for the purpose shown.
22. In combination with the block and the flexible knife attached thereto the
adjustable bar and the flexible knife attached to it, the block having the means for
receiving and holding the flexible knife extending from the former block bent at an
angle, and the adjustable bar provided with a holder for the end of such knife and
a holder for the end of the knife attached to the other adjustable bar, substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 23. In a machine for cutting out forms from leather or other material, in com-
bination with the cutters and holding devices for the same, a support for such
devices and clamps made adjustable over the support, adapted to clamp the cutter
holding devices at different points upon the support, substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
24. In a machine for cutting button-hole flies or lace-hole strips, in combination
with the cutters and devices for holding the same, a support, series of clamps for
holding such devices on the support, and the adjustable standards upon which the
clamps are pivoted and by which they are supported, substantially as and for the
purpose specified.
25. In combination with the table or support, and the plate resting thereon
provided with a series of slots undercut at their sides, the series of standards each
projecting through a slot, and having a base wider than the slot, the series of clamps
pivoted on such standards, and means for clamping the plate down on the table so
as to clamp the bases of the standards in place simultaneously, substantially as and
for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 25th day of November 1890.
JENSEN & SON,
77, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Patent Agents.