IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING WOVEN LOOPED, OR LACE FABRICS
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Twells, of the Town and County of the
Town of Nottingham, Mechanist, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING WOVEN LOOPED, OR LACE
FABRICS"
Sealed the 19th April 1859, and dated the 20th October 1858.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Twells at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
20th October 1858.
I, THOMAS TWELLS, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham,
Mechanist, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING WOVEN. LOOPED, OR
LACE FABRICS," to be as follows:-
My Invention consists of a needle with a single barb which pierces the
cloth or other fabric. The thread is then laid over the needles and the barb
is pressed down by two instruments called pressers that open to admit the
needle in its forward motion to receive the thread from the thread layer,
and as the needle is withdrawn the pressers close and put down the barb or
beard in sufficient time, before it approaches the cloth or other fabric worked
upon. It then takes the thread through the cloth or other material doubled,
the material moving in any required direction, and forms what is called the
looped or tamboured stitch.

page_text: The next part of my Invention consists in having the needle to revolve, so
that the back of the needle always stands in the same direction as the cloth
or other material is moving to form the required pattern. Thus, for instance,
the cloth moving to the right hand on the machine, the barb of the needle
will stand to the left hand; or, the cloth moving to the left hand, the barb of
the needle will stand to the right hand; if the work is going upward, the barb
points downward; or, the work going downward, the barb points upward.
The needles being in a round stem or spindle containing a pinion or pulley, to
be moved by a toothed rack or any other (suitable) known mechanical con-
trivance, which is actuated by a jacquard or other mechanical means.
The next part of my Invention consists in having a bobbin or spool with a
hole through its centre to allow the spindle containing the needle to pass
through, and also a small head upon the bobbin or spool with two holes, one
for the needle to pass through, the other for the extra thread to pass through,
so that when the needle is withdrawn through the fabric the head of the
needle will pass within the first-mentioned hole, then the bobbin or spool
will be caused to revolve by a band or other suitable contrivance; it will
then have laid the thread in the second hole, which will cause it to lap
round the double thread or loop at the needle's head when drawn through
the fabric, so that it forms a raised pile or cord.
And, lastly, one or more needles is or are to be placed out of the centre of
the needle spindle, so that in revolving stitch by stitch, it will describe a
greater or less circle, according to the required spot, ring, or other ornament;
the first described needle will revolve in the centre, and the other needle
or needles will revolve round it.
For making detached patterns, such as spots, rings, or sprigs, or any
separate objects that require the thread to be cut off, I propose to apply a
knife or cutter at the back of the cloth or fabric, that when the needle is
withdrawn, a lateral motion is communicated to the said knife or cutter by
the jacquard or other contrivance severing the thread while the thread is held
in front of the fabric by a pair of forceps actuated by the jacquard or other
contrivance, so that the thread is held within the forceps while the work is
moved from one detached spot, ring, sprig, or ornament to another.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Thomas Twells in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 20th April 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
TWELLS, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Mechanist,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-second year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give aud grant unto me,
the said Thomas Twells, Her special licence that I, the said Thomas Twells,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such, others as 1, the
said Thomas Twells, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might inake,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE
MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING WOVEN. LOOPED. OR
LACE FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Thomas
Twells, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas Twells, do hereby declare
the uature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My Invention first consists in the employment and method of action of a
needle with a single barb which pierces the cloth or other fabric. The thread
is then laid over the needles and the barb is pressed down by two instruments
called pressers which open to admit the needle in its forward motion to
receive the thread from the thread layer, and as the needle is withdrawn, the
pressers close and put down the barb or beard in sufficient time before it
approaches the cloth or other fabric worked upon; it then takes the thread

page_text: through the cloth or other material doubled, the material moving in any
required direction, and forms what is called the looped or tamboured stitch.
The next part of my Invention consists in causing the needle to revolve, so
that the back of the needle always stands in the same direction as the cloth or
other material is moving to form the required pattern. Thus, for instance,
the cloth moving to the right hand on the machine, the barb of the needle
will stand to the left hand; or, the cloth moving to the left hand, the barb of
the needle will stand to the right hand; if the work be going upward, the
barb points downward; or, if the work be going downward, the barb points
upward. The needle being in a round stein or r spindle containing a pinion or
pulley, to be moved bya toothed rack or any other suitable known mechanical
contrivance, actuated by a jacquard or other mechanical means.
The next part of my Invention consists in having a bobbin or spool with a
hole through its centre to allow the spindle containing the needle to pass
through, and also a small head upon the bobbin or spool with two holes, one
for the needle to pass through, and the other for the extra thread to pass
through, so that when the needle is withdrawn through the fabric the head of
the needle will pass within the first-mentioned hole, then the bobbin or spool
will be caused to revolve by a band or other suitable contrivance; it will
then have laid the thread in the second hole, which will cause it to lap round
the double thread or loop at the needle's head when drawn through the
fabrics, so that it forms a raised pile or cord.
And lastly, one or more needles is or are to be placed out of the centre
of the needle spindle, so that in revolving, stitch by stitch, it will describe
a greater or less circle, according to the required spot, ring, or other orna-
ment, the first described needle will revolve in the centre, and the other
needle or needles will revolve round it.
For making detached patterns, such as spots, rings, or sprigs, or any
separate objects that require the thread to be cut off I apply a knife or cutter
at the back of the cloth or fabric, so that when the needle is withdrawn a
lateral motion is communicated to the said knife or cutter by the jacquard
or other contrivance, thereby severing the thread while the thread is held
in front of the fabric by a pair of forceps actuated by the jacquard or other
contrivance, so that the thread is held within the forceps while the work is
moved from one detached spot, ring, sprig, or ornament to another.
The accompanying Drawings exemplify the mode of carrying my Invention
into effect.

page_text: Sheet 1, Figure 1, is a front view of the machine, with a jacquard attached.
Sheet 2, Figure 2, is a front view of the machine without the jacquard.
Sheet 3, Figure 3, is a right-hand end view of the machine without the
jacquard.
Sheet 4, Figure 4, is a left-hand end view, with the wires and strings from
the jacquard attached, but without the jacquard; Figure 5 is a separate view
of the racking cam and rod, broken away in Figure 4, shewing the cam which
gives motion to the wheels for causing the fabric to move vertically, hori-
zontally, or otherwise; Figure 6 represents cam 6 for moving the rack which
gives motion to the revolving needles; Figure 7 represents cam 7 for giving
motion to the thread layer by means of the lever 7'; Figure 8 represents the
cam S. which gives motion to the lever 8' by means of the lever 8³, moved by
a string from the jacquard; when the jacquard puts the lever 82 under the pin
in the lever 8' it lifts up the thread into the nippers, and holds it there until
it is cut off, and has started again for another sprig, or otherwise; Figure 9
represents cam 9 for moving the jacquard cylinder; Figure 10 represents
cam 10 for moving the lift of the jacquard. Cams 7, 8, and 9- are shewn
on the shaft g in Sheet 3. Figure 3. Cam 11, which moves the needle carriage
forward and backward, is shewn on Sheets 4 and 5; cam 12, which raises
and lowers the loop tightener, is shewn in Figure 11, Sheet 5.
Figure 4, Sheet 4, represents the arched foot of the standard bearing the
jacquard shewn in front of the end view.
Sheet. 5, Figure 11, is a right-hand sectional view of the machine, shewing
the tie bars b, c, d, the main slide bars i, i, the main work beam and work reel,
the four friction rollers, needle carriage, spool and bracket, nippers, thread
guide loop tightener, knife, or lance, and the cams 11 and 12.
Sheet 6, Figure 12, is a plan of the needle carriage, needle spindle, and
pinion rack, covering spool, thread guide, thread layer, the tops of the pressers,
and knife or lance; Figure 13 is a bracket, with the spool and thread carrier
mounted; Figure 14 represents the spool and thread carrier not mounted;
Figure 1 is an end and side view of the tube on which the thread is wound,
which is passed through the hole in the carrier; Figure 16, front view of the
spool and carrier mounted in a carriage; Figure 17, frout and side views of
the knife or lance; Figure 18, front and side views of the presser; Figure 19,
front view of the nippers; Figure 20, side view of one piece, shewing the eye
in which the other presses the thread; Figure 21, front view of the loop
tightener; Figure 22, bottom view of the saine; Figuro 23, side view of a

page_text: needle inserted in the centre of the needle spindle; Figure 24, front view of
a needle and spindle forming an excentric; Figure 25, Sheet 1, represents the
apparatus which moves the nipper bars and knife or lance bar to the bar or
rod moved by the camare screwed the brackets carrying the clawkers A¹
and A3; A' acting upon the swing lever A when moved by the jacquard, the
clawker to the right will in its descent close the nippers; when the left
clawker is moved by the jacquard it will open the nippers. A is the lever
which moves the knife or lance bar, the knife making a movement to cut off
the thread when the right clawker A3 is moved by the jacquard, and when tho
left clawker is moved it will return the knife to the position shewn in Figure 12,
Sheet G.
Figures to 15 inclusive are drawn to a scale of 4 inches to a foot;
Figures 16 to 24 are half the full size; and Figures 1 and 25 to a scale of
3 inches to a foot.
The needles used in this machine are of two sorts, either a common barbed
needle, as in Figure 23, or a self-acting needle, of the description known as
Townshend's patent needles; and either of these needles may be mounted in
the needle spindle in two distinct ways, as may be required: firstly, the needle
may be inserted in the centre of the needle spindle, as in Figure 23, which
represents the needle with the beard pointing upwards. In Figure 2-4 the
needle has the beard pointing sidewise, and instead of being inserted in the
centre of the spindle, the spindle has a disc of the required diameter fastened
to the end forming an eccentric, near the edge of which the needle is fastened.
The needles are mounted on excentrics, for the purpose of making small spots
or rings, the spots or rings being the size of the circle the needle will make,
being fixed on one side of the centre about which it rovelves.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PARTS.
All the Figures have corresponding letters and figures of reference, the
following description will apply to each.
a, a, are the end castings of the machine, connected by 4 tie bars b, c, d, e.
The driving shaft F is carried in bearings in front of the machine. g is a
short shaft on the right hand end of the machine carried in bearings, one ou
the end casting, the other on the end of the tie bar d; there are two bevil
wheels on this shaft, one gearing into a similar wheel on the end of the
driving shaft, the other into a wheel on the end of the main can shaft h. The
short shaft g has three cams, 7, 8, and 9 keyed on it; the large one has
eight cams, 5. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. i, i, are the main slide bars, connected
at each end by an arched bracket &, two tio brackets, and one tie bracket³;

page_text: the arched bracket at the left end and the tie bracket 3 have screwed to them
a rack i, moved by a pinion 6 on the axle j of the ratchet wheelsj, j; this
pinion gears into the rack and as it is moved by one or other of the
clawkers j, taking into one of the wheels or 7, the rack attached to the
bracket on the main slide bars will move them to the right or left hori-
zontally. The gauge of the teeth of the wheel is twice as large as
the teeth on the wheel j, so that when the fabric to be embroidered is
to move right or left horizontally the jacquard will cause the clawkers j
to act on the wheel j; but when it is required to move the fabric to the
right or left diagonally the jacquard will move one of the clawkers to the
wheel, the wheel j* moving the fabric half the distance diagonally for the
same length of stitch when moved horizontally only by the wheel j'; when the
fabric is moved diagonally the two shafts carrying the wheels j. j³, and k¹
and are moved simultaneously; the shaft / carrying similar wheels ',, to
the shaft j, which carries the wheels j', j. The left end casting carries
brackets, on which are screwed bearings which carry the shaft k, having a
bevil wheel k³, keyed on one end, this wheel gearing into the wheel on the
end of the back friction roller l. 11, 12, 1, are four friction rollers carried in
bearings on the tie brackets at each end of the frame; 1, are the top pair.
12, 13, the bottom pair; these rollers are covered with cloth, carding, leather, or
other suitable material, the fabric to be embroidered being passed between
them, they are set the required distance apart by set screws, which hold the
arms for the front beams, the beams being made to move the fabric upwards
or downwards by the bevil wheel gearing into the wheel 7. On the axle of the
upper back beam is a bevil wheel 15 in front of the wheel ', which takes into
a bevel wheel on the upper end of a short vertical shaft 15, which has a similar
wheel at the lower end gearing into a like wheel on the axle of the back
lower friction beam 13. The bearing at the right of the wheel is screwed to
a bracket cast on the end casting; this bearing carries the boss of the wheel
, which is bored out for the axle of the upper back beam to pass through, so
that the beans may be moved horizontally without the wheel l'moving with
them;
the end of the back beam 1, passing through and beyond the wheel l',
has on it a smaller wheel 15, which gears into the bevel wheel on the upper
end of the short vertical shaft, by which means the upper and lower back
beams are made to revolve and move the fabric up or down; the wheel 15 is
not secured on the end of the axle by a key, but has two holes in it, through
which are passed two slide rods screwed into the body of the wheel ', by which
means the axle and beam are caused to slide to the right and left the length
required, the main beams as shown here can have a motion given them of

page_text: When the cording spool is used in embroidering it is employed in the
following manner:-When the needle carriage has withdrawn the needle and
thread to the extent of its backward motion, the cording spool or hobbin
and carrier then make one or more revolutions (according to the number of
teeth in the ratchet wheel); the needle then advances through the fabric to
form another loop, and when it comes back the cording spool again laps the
thread it carries round the loop each time the needle recedes.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim as my
improvements in machinery for embroidering or ornamenting woven,
looped, or lace fabrics,-
First, the employment of the revolving barb needle set in the centre of
the needle spindle, and of the same needle set excentric with the spindle
centre, operating as described, but I do not confine myself to the use of a
bearded needle as I sometimes find it convenient to use the self-acting needle
known as Townsend's patent needle.
Secondly, the employment and arrangement of the cording spool or bobbin,
operating as herein-before described.
Thirdly, the arrangement of parts operating so as to effect the mode or
method of lengthening the loop, as described.
Fourthly, the general arrangement and combination of parts of machinery
constructed in the manner herein-before described, and represented in the
accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Twells, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine.
Witness,
GEO. JON. ROBINSON,
Patont Agent,
Nottingham.
THOMAS TWELLS. (..S.)