CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, ALSO APPLICABLE TO OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
BUCHLER, of the City of London, Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Sixteenth day of January, Oue thousand eight hundred
and forty-nine, in the twelfth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs
and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Edward Buchler, my exors,
adiñors, and assigns, Her especial license, full power, sole privilege & autho-
rity, that I, the said Edward Buchler, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, and
such others as I, the said Edward Buchler, my exors, admors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, and in the Islands of Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney, Sark, and
Man, and in all Her said Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, the
Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND
SHOES, ALSO APPLICABLE TO OTHER FABRICS," communicated to me from abroad;
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said Edward
Buchler, should cause a particular description of the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, by an instru-
ment in writing under my hand and seal, to be enrolled in His said Majesty's
High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately

page_text: after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same,
reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Edward Buchler, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention
communicated to me, and the manner of performing and carrying out the
same, are fully described and ascertained by the following statement thereof,
reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures
therein contained, in which the sanie letters of reference indicate similar parts,
that is to say:-
The Invention communicated to me consists,-
Firstly, in the combination of a machine or apparatus for producing a
certain metallic hook or stitch, and the application of the same to replacing
hemp in the manufacture of boots and shoes, harness, and pipes of leather,
and other fabrics of similar nature.
Secondly, in the process of preparing the heels and welts of boots and
shoes.
By means of the said improvements I render the above articles of longer
wear than when waxed hemp is employed, and effect a saving of fifty per
cent. in labor.
Firstly, Metallic Hook Cutting Machine.-Figure 1 represents a side
elevation of the work bench provided with all the necessary apparatus, (that
is to say,) with the metallic stitch cutting machine O, with the press O¹, the
shears Ou, and the vice O¹¹.
Figure 2 is a right-side view of the machine for cutting wire, and forming
books suitable for effecting the sewing of boots, shoes, harness for beasts of
burden, leather pipes, and other similar articles requiring a strong sewing, for
which my process is particularly adapted. The machine and component parts
represented by the several Figures, are drawn in the natural size, and are
made principally of wrought iron.
Figure 3 is a left-side view of the machine, which is permanently fixed
and screwed on an iron platform C. A, Figures 2 and 3, is a lever fixed to
the bearers B, B', by means of screw bolts D, D¹; it is set in motion by hand,
and serves to work the principal organs of the machine. B, B', Figures
2, 3, 10, 20, and 21, are the bearers on which the lever A is put in motion;
they are firmly screwed on the plate C by means of nuts. C, Figures 2, 3, and
10, is an iron platform on which the whole of the cutting machine is screwed.
D, Figures 2, 3, and 21, is a screw bolt to keep the lever A on the bearer B.
D¹, Figures 2, 3, and 20, is a screw bolt adapted to the bearer B³, and on the
axis of which the lever A effects freely its ascending and descending motion.

page_text: E, Figures 2 and 18, is an orifice made through the iron plate L, and in
communication with the tube G. This orifice serves to introduce or pass
the wire T, when effecting its transit to the knives I and H. F, Figures
2, 3, and 16, is a punch, the top extremity of which traverses the thickness
5 of the lever A, and is made fast to it by means of the screws K, K. This
punch is set in motion by the ascending or descending action of the lever A,
and while it forces the cut wire to pass through the matrix Q, set under the
plate M, to receive its curved form, it impresses on it three notches, serving
to keep the hook fast after being hammered in. G, Figures 2 and 19, is a
conduct pipe or tube fixed steadily to the orifice E of the plate L; it is
through that tube that the wire T is introduced under the knives H, I, to be
cut according to the desired length. H, I, Figures 2, 3, and 12, are two
knives conveniently fixed and set one above the other. The one at top H is
fixed to the lever A, and follows its ascending and descending motion, and
the other I is permanently attached on the plate R, firmly screwed on the
place C; it is on the knife I that the wire T egressing from the tube G, after
having passed through the orifice E of the plate L, receives the action of the
knife H, and is cut according to the required length. These two knives act
simultaneously in cutting the wire. J, Figures 2 and 3, is a steel spring
fixed to the lever A by means of a screw J¹; it pushes the wire cut by the
knives H and I on the matrix Q under the puncheon F, in order that when
the last receives its descending motion from the lever A, it forces the wire to
pass through the matrix Q. K, K¹, Figures 2 and 3, screws by which the
punch F is fixed to the lever A. N, N, N, N, Figures 2, 3, and 10, four
screws serving to fix the cutting apparatus to the work bench, as seen at its
proper place in Figure 1. L, Figures 2, 18, 19, is a plate on which is fixed
the tube G through the orifice E; the plate L is firmly screwed to the plate R.
M, Figures 2, 3, 13, 13, 13", is a plate set on the platform C, and on which
the cut wire is forced into the matrix. Q, Q, Figures 10, 14, and 15, represents
the matrix which, by the descending and forcing action of the punch F, gives
to the wire T, cut by the knives H and I, its proper curved shape. T, Fi-
gure 2, represents the wire which is to form the proper hook; it is seen at its
ingress into the orifice E of the plate L. W, Figure 1, is the box or drawer set
under the platform Out of the work table, to receive the curved hooks when they
have undergone the process of the punch and matrix, and are fit for use; they
fall into the box W through a hole properly made in the platform Ou, and
corresponding with the matrix Q, when they egress 'from the last. Figure 10
represents a plan of the platform and of the cutting machine, having all the
component parts taken off to shew the position of the matrix Q. Figure 17

page_text: represents a wire hook ready for use. The action of the machine is very
simple, and can be easily understood:-I take a piece of wire T, Figuro 2,
which passes through. the orifice E and tube G; at the moment that the
wire egresses from the tube G I give to the lever A its ascending motion,
which permits the wire to be immediately placed upon the knife I; and when
the descending motion is afterwards given to the lever A, the wire T is cut
into its proper size. In the meantime, and by the same action of the lever A,
the steel spring J pushes the cut wire under the punch F, by which it is forced
into the matrix Q, where it receives its proper curved shape. Figure 4 is a
haimmer which the workman makes use of to stitch the soles and heels of
the boots or shoes while introducing successively the hooks which compose
the metallic stitching. Figure 5, an casel with a shoe secured tightly to it,
and ready to be soled. S, the shoe. V, V, stuffed leather garnishment for
avoiding any damage to the upper leather of the boot or shoe when the
workman is engaged in introducing the wire hooks into the soles. X, X,
moveable wooden pieces working in joints for approaching or putting back the
support,, of the easel, according to the size of the boot or shoe, and
keeping it in a fixed position by means of a peg. Y is a strap provided with
a buckle, which maintains the shoe in a permanent manner on the easel during
the progression of the work. Z is the wooden table on which the easel is
.placed. Figure 6 represents a block with three iron feet of different sizes,
serving to equalize the interior sole, and. to rivet the ends of the metallic
hooks. Figure 7 is the punch which the workman makes use for drilling
holes in the contours of the soles, or on the piece of leather or other similar
fabric to be stitched, before inserting the points of the hooks into it. Figure 8,
last strengthened with iron. Figure 9, a last with its iron fitting, and exhibiting
the bottom of its sole.
Application, of, the metallic hooks to the manufacture of shoes, boots,
leather, harness, and pipes, and other similar articles.-The insole is put on
the form and fixed as usual by means of suitable nails. The workman stitches
together with metal hooks the welt (prepared as herein-after described), the
sole, and the upper leather of the boot or shoe; he gives the warping accord-
ing to the ordinary system, and when this is effected he adjuts the exterior
sole, then the heels (prepared as herein-after described); the external sole
being fastened to the shoe or boot, the workman takes hold of the puncheon,
Figure 7, with the left hand, and draws with it a groove all round the sole
and heel. He sets in that groove the longest ends of the wire hooks at equal
distances, taking care at the same time to place them as near as possible one
to the other, and with two blows of his hammer he fixes then firmly. The

page_text: lasts, Figures 8 and 9, having their bottoms fitted with iron, compel the
longest end of the hook to bend internally into the soles; that being done,
the shoe or boot is placed on the iron form of Figure 6, and the metallic
hooks are then strongly rivetted by hammering the stitching. This system
of working is so simple and so very easy in its application for the confection
of several other articles, such as pipes, harness for beasts of burden, trunks
made of leather and of other similar materials, that I do not consider it
necessary to make any particular allusion to the manufacture of them, as the
mode of operating, which will be easily understood by every workman, is only
a mere repitition of my process for boot and shoe making, as herein-before
described.
It is
Secondly, improvements in the process of preparing the heels and welts of
boots and shoes. Figure 1, Drawing II., represents a front elevation of the
matrix for manufacturing heels. A is a hollow space cast in brass, having
the shape of the heel, and in which the leather is laid in pieces; the bottom
of A is of a convex form, in order that the outside or the sole part of the
heel should have that form. C is an opening cut on the front of A, serving
to take out the heel when made. E, E, are the front sides of A, and on
which the opening C is cut. F, F, F, F, four bands put on each side of the
front E, E, to straighten the matrix. B, B, is the iron plate on which the
matrix is strongly fixed by four rivets, not seen in the Drawing. Figure 2,
Drawing 11, represents the front elevation of the lid of the matrix.
composed of a strong and heavy brass piece A, having its upper part concave
to form the head or upper part of the heel; the piece A is made of a convenient
size and deepness, in order to fit nearly exactly into the hollow part of a, Fi-
gure 1 of the same Drawing. B is the plate on which the part A is fixed by four
rivets, not seen in the Drawing. Figure 3, Drawing 11, represents a front ele-
vation of the matrix for preparing welts. A, A, are the empty or hollow spaces
in which the bands of leather forming the welt are laid. C is an opening to
take out the welts when made. B, B, is the plate on which A is fixed by
rivets, not seen in the Drawing. Figure 4, Drawing 11, represents a front
elevation of the lid of the matrix for preparing the welt. A is a heavy solid
piece of brass of a convenient shape, size, and deepness, in order to fit nearly
exactly into the hollow part of A, Figure 3 of Drawing 11. C is the plate
on which the piece A is strongly fixed by rivets, not seen in the Drawing;
the four Figures represent the natural size of the several pieces. To prepare
the heels and welts I operate as follows:-The leather which is to form them
is perfectly soaked in water, and powerfully stretched when still wet; it is then
cut in pieces of a proper size, and fit to be placed in the bottom part of the

page_text: matrix A, Figure 3, Drawing 11, where they are laid one by one until the
matrix is filled with a quantity of them sufficient to form the heel. I take
care, however, when I lay the pieces to season them well with very good size;
after that operation I fit in the matrix A, Figure 1, the heavy part A of
Figure 2, which forms a strong weight on the pieces of leather, and I submit
the matrix thus prepared to the action of the pressing machine 0" of the
work table; by that mode of operating I produce in a very short time, and
without employing the long and tedious process now in use for preparing the
heels of boots and shoes, by laying and nailing one by one each piece, a heel
concave at bottom and convex on its top. When it is well dried, I fix it at
once by means of the metallic hook, as herein-before described. To prepare
the welt, I operate with the matrix, Figure 3, in a manner exactly similar to
the mode I have herein-before described when speaking of the heel; it is there-
fore useless to repeat the process necessary for its preparation. The sole and
heels being prepared and fixed by means of metallic hooks, as herein-before
described, the boots and shoes are finished by the usual mode of sewing, con-
sidering that the application of my metallic hook to the other parts would
render them less flexible than it is necessary for a comfortable wear.
And having now described the nature of the Invention communicated to
me, and the manner in which the same is to be performed and carried out,
I wish it to be observed, that I am well aware that attempts have repeatedly
made, though without success, for sewing metallically shoes, boots, and other
articles, I therefore do not claim the idea of replacing the mode usually
employed for sewing, nor do I claim the several component parts of the
herein-before described machinery taken separately; nor do I confine myself
to the several details, forms, and proportions of the several parts of the machi-
nery I have employed, as I can alter them according to circumstances, pro-
vided the general features be similar to those herein-before given. But what
1 claim as the Invention communicated to me, and intended to be protected
by the aforesaid Letters Patent, is,―
Firstly, the combination of a machine or apparatus for producing metallic
hooks, as therein-before described in reference to the Figures 1, 2, 3, 11, 12,
13, 131, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, of Drawing I.
Secondly, the application of the said metal books or stitches to the manu-
facture of all kinds of boots and shoes, harness, pipes, truncks of leather, and
other fabrics of a similar nature, as herein-before described, reference being
had to Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9, of Drawing I.
Thirdly, the matrices for the preparation of heels and welts, and the appli-
cation of the said heels and welts to the manufacture of boots and shoes,

page_text: EDWARD (L.S.) BUCHLER.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-second day of June,
in the year of our Lord 1849, the aforesaid Edward Buchler came before
our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Speci-
fication aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in
form above written. And also the
And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped
according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.