IMPROVE- MENTS IN DRESSING OR GETTING UP FABRICS OF COTTON OR SILK AND OF COTTON AND SILK COMBINED
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHN
FRANCIS BOTTOM, of Nottingham Park, in the County of Nottingham, Lace
Dresser, and JOHN DEARMAN DUNNICLIFF, of Hyson Green, in the Parish
of Radford, in the said County of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Royal
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Eighteenth day of January,.
One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine, in the twelfth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
John Francis Bottom and John Dearman Dunnicliff, Her especial licence,
full power, sole privilege and authority, that we, the said John Francis
Bottom and John Dearman Dunnicliff, our exors, adñiors, and assigns, and
such others as we, the said John Francis Bottom and John Dearman Dunnicliff,
our exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times during the term of years therein mentioned,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN DRESSING OR GETTING UP FABRICS OF COTTON OR SILK AND OF COTTON AND
SILK COMBINED;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that
we, the said John Francis Bottom and John Dearman Dunnicliff, or one of
us, shall particularly describe and ascertain the nature of our said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, by an instrument
in writing under our hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us,

page_text: to be enrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited
Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will
more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
John Francis Bottom and John Dearman Dunnicliff, do hereby declare that the
nature of our said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be per-
formed, are fully described and ascertained in and by the following statement
thereof, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the
figures and letters marked therein, that is to say:-
Our Invention consists of applying free steam to act on fabrics of cotton or
silk, and of fabrics of cotton and silk combined, when such fabrics are held
extended. And the Invention also consists of applying numerous jets of
heated air to dry the descriptions of fabrics above mentioned. And in order
that our Invention may be most fully understood and readily carried into
effect, we will proceed to describe the means pursued by us.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a horizontal or top view; Figure 2 a longitudinal or side
elevation; Figure 3 a vertical longitudinal section on line A, A, of Figure 1;
Figure 4 an end view or clevation; Figure 5 a vertical transverse section on
lines B, B, of Figures 1, 2, and 3; Figure 6 a vertical transverse section on
lines C, C, of Figures 1 and 2, shewing the hanging bracket of the shafts t
and of the web, rollers, or beams y, herein after mentioned; and Figure 7 is a
vertical longitudinal section on line D, D, of Figure 1, through the clamps
of the portable end rails herein-after mentioned. All the Figures above
mentioned are drawn to a scale of three quarters of an inch to a foot. Figure 8
is a vertical section of one of the service cocks d, herein-after mentioned;
Figure 9 is a vertical section through one of the single swivel joints f on the
tops of the vertical service pipes e, hercin-after mentioned; Figure 10 is a
vertical section through one of the double swivel joints h of the horizontal
service pipes g, i, herein-after mentioned; Figure 11 is a vertical section
through the steam jet pipe 1, through one of the sockets or joinings k of the
said pipe, through one of the throttle or edge valves n fitted in the said sockets,
and through the swivel joint j by which such sockets or joinings connect with
the horizontal service pipes, also through one of the rollers p on which the said
jet pipe travels on the tram rails 7 as it traverses from side to side of the
dressing or getting-up frame or machine."
The sections represented in Figures 9, 10, and 11 are taken ou lines E, E,

page_text: of Figure 1. Figure 12 is a horizontal section on the lines E³, E³, of Figures
9, 10, and 11, through the swivel joints f, h, and j of the horizontal service
pipes. The five last-mentioned Figures, numbered 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, are
drawn to a scale of three inches to a foot, or one fourth the full size. Similar
letters of reference are marked upon corresponding parts of the mechanism
in all the Figures. In the said Figures the parts marked F are fixed end
rails mounted on legs or uprights G and M³, which logs or uprights are fastened.
to the floor whereon the frame or machine stands. The parts marked I are
moveable side rails mounted on legs I, which legs run by rollers K on the said.
floor, as the said moveable side rails are made to approach or récede from tho
centre of the said frame or machine in the process of adjusting the breadth
thereof to that of the fabric to be dressed or got up, or of distending the said
fabric breadthwise in the process of dressing or getting up. When (as is most
generally the case) the fabric to be dressed or got up is not of the same length as
the frame or machine, a portable end rail Fis clamped to the moveable side
rails H to receive one of the ends of the said fabric. This portable rail is
similar in construction to the well-known slide rule, whereby it admits of
adjustment to any given breadth of frame or machine or of fabric. Upon the
upper surfaces of all the aforesaid rails, and near to their inner edges, are fixed
tension pins L on which by its selvages and ends the fabric to be dressed or
got up is distended. Uprights or posts marked M, stayed by distance or
stretcher rails N, are fixed down the centre of the frame or machine, and carry
the bearings or pillow blocks of the centre or driving shaft P, on which
shaft are keyed fast the toothed pinions Q which take into and give motion to
the racks R, and as one end of each of the said racks is attached to the legs I
on which the moveable side rails H are mounted, the motion of such racks
causes the said side rails to approach or recede from the
or machine as the process to be performed may require.
each pair of the said racks guide and.friction rollers S to
hung in suitable bearings or brackets T, which are bolted to the said uprights
or posts M. The said racks are further retained and guided by the upper
distance or stretcher rails N, before mentioned, and by guide plates U which
are fixed on the tops of the uprights or posts M.. To each extreme upright or
post M and to the fixed end rails F there is fastened a bearing plate V which
carries the bearings of the pinion W, and is perforated for the centre or driv-
ing shaft P, the ends of which shaft protrude through the same and receive
the spur wheels X, which are keyed fast thereon. The spur wheels ✗ are
driven by the pinions W, which pinions are turned by the winch handles Y, to
which mauual labor is applied. Ratchet wheels Z are fixed on the centre.
centre of the frame
Under and between
the said racks are

page_text: driving shaft P and screw bolted to the arms of the spur wheels X. These
ratchet wheels have palls Z which prevent them from recoiling under the
tension of the fabric on the frame or machine. When required the said
ratchet wheels are released by depressing the connecting rods Z* which are
jointed to the ends of the said palls, which are thereby lifted out of the teeth
of the said wheels. The helical spring Z, which is attached to the jointed
end of the pall, ensures the return thereof when the pressure on the connecting
rod Z is removed, and by means of the buttons Z³ the connecting rods Z are
kept depressed as long as may be requisite. The mole of operating with this
frame or machine is as follows, that is to say -The length of the fabric to be
dressed or got up having been ascertained or determined, the selvages are
placed by the workpeople on the tension pins L of the moveable side rails El,
and are by their hands pressed down so as to cause the said tension pins to
enter and securely hold the said selvages, and the ends of the said fabric are
in like manner placed on the tension pins of the end rails F, or on the tension
pins of one of such end rails F and of the portable end rail F, excepting
that such ends are only fastened at intervals to admit of the fabric being
distended breadthways. The winch handles Y are then turned, giving motion.
through the spur pinion W and wheel X to the centre or driving shaft P,
which, by the toothed pinions thereon, drives the racks R, whereby the
moveable side rails H are made to recede from the centre of the frame or
machine and from each other, bringing the fabric to be dressed or got up into
the requisite state of tension. Whilst this tension is being produced, the work-
people readjust the selvages on the tension pins in the side and end rails, and
complete the fixing of the ends of the fabric on the tension pins of the said
end rails. The frame or machine is by means of the ratchet wheels Z retained
of the breadth to which it has been extended until the fabric distended thereon
is dried and finished, when such fabric is taken off the same by means of
well-known instruments called "folders." To effect the drying above men-
tioned the room in which this frame or machine is placed is kept at a
necessary temperature by cockles or stoves, steam pipes, hot-air apparatus,
or any other well-known modes of heating as commonly practiced when using
this description of machinery. In some cases previously to the fabric being
distended on the frame or machine, and in other cases subsequently to its
being distended, it is damped, wetted, or saturated with water, starch, or other
stiffening material, and whilst distended as aforesaid it is "cleared" and
undergoes other well-known processes of dressing or getting up. All the
aforesaid processes, mechanism, and frame or machine are old and well
known.

page_text: And we will now describe the means we prefer for carrying out our
Invention when such or similar frames or machines are used for dressing.
stretching, drying, and finishing such fabrics. Near to the centre of the said
frame or machine is placed a steam main a, one end of which communicates
with a steam boiler, and the other end is closed by a suitable inverted syplion or
steam trap, the said main being supported by pullies mounted in bearings b,
by which it is confined laterally and left free to move longitudinally as the
several lengths of pipe of which it is composed elongate when heated by the
steam with which the said main is filled from the boiler before mentioned, the
pressure of steam in which is twenty pounds on the square inch, but we do
not confine ourselves to steam of that pressure. At c on the said steam main
there are placed collars or glands within which the said several lengths of pipe
composing the said steam main elongate, by which arrangement the gross
length of the said steam main and also the distances between the service cocks
d, which open and close the communication between such steam main and the
vertical steam service pipes e, are maintained constant. The said service cocks d
are fitted up with ball and socket joints to allow to the vertical steam service
pipes e a small amount of motion in any direction that the elongations caused
by the heat of the steam in any of the pipes connected therewith may render
necessary. The construction of these cocks and their connections with the
steam main a and vertical service pipes e, is shewn in Figure 8. On the tops
of the vertical service pipes e, aforesaid, there are placed single swivel joints f
from which proceed the first armis or lengths of the horizontal steam service
pipes g, and terminate in the lower parts of the double swivel joints h; from
the upper parts of the said double swivel joints proceed the second arms or
lengths i of the horizontal steam service pipes, and such second arms or lengths
terminate in the single swivel joints j of the sockets k of the steam jet pipe 1;
by means of the swivel joints above mentioned the said horizontal steam
service pipes g, i, are rendered flexible and swivel or move on the said joints as
the steam jet pipe l is made to traverse from side to side of the frame or
machine, as herein-after described, and through the vertical and horizontal steam
service pipes aforesaid steam can freely issue from the steam main a into the
said steam jet pipe whether the same be stationary or traversing, as above
mentioned. In order to obtain a considerable capacity with a small amount
of weight, the service pipes and the jet pipe are preferred to be constructed
of brass. The upper side of the steam jet pipe is perforated with small
holes (the diameter of these holes is about equal to size 20 of the wire
guage); from these holes the steam jets out when the valves and cocks before
mentioned are opened. The under side of the same pipe is perforated with

page_text: a single row of similar holes, about eighteen inches asunder, from which
water arising from steam condensing therein escapes. The ends of the
several lengths of pipe of which the steam jet pipe is composed are screwed
into the sockets k before mentioned, and into the intermediate sockets m,
which last-mentioned sockets. are in all respects similar to the sockets k,
excepting that they have not swivel joints. The sockets k and also the
sockets m are fitted up with throttle or edge valves n, by which valves
the passage of steam through the said jet pipe may be intercepted and
curtailed, when the length of the fabric to be dressed or got up renders such
a course desirable. The ends of the jet pipe 7 are closed by suitable nuts o.
The said steam jet l is mounted on rollers p, which run on tram rails 9. Those
tram rails 9 are supported by brackets q³, which are fastened to the uprights
or posts M aforesaid. The construction of the rollers p, the throttle or edge
valves n, the sockets m and k, the steam jet pipe 7, the swivel joints j, h, and f
the horizontal service pipes i and g, and of the vertical steam pipes e, is shewn
in detail in Figures 9, 10, 11, and 12. To the moveable side rails H of the
frame or machine brackets or hangers r and s are fixed to carry the shafts t,
the web rollers or beams y, and the spur wheels 1, 2, 3, herein-after described.
On the shafts & above mentioned, the tape pullies u are fixed, and to these
pullics are attached by one of their ends the tapes v; and the opposite ends
of the same tapes are attached by suitable rings and hooks to the sockets k
and m of the steam jet pipe l. On the ends of the same shafts the winch
handles W are keyed fast, and by turning any one of those winch handles
both the said shafts t are made to revolve, the tapes v being thereby wound on
to the tape pullies of one of those shafts, and off of the tape pulleys of the
other of the said shafts. The tapes which are thus wound on exert a pull
on the steam jet pipe 2, and cause it to traverse towards the pullies on which
the tapes are winding, namely, on the pullies carried by the shaft on which is
the winch handle whereon the manual power is being applied. On the said
shafts t helical springs & are wound, one end of each of such springs being
fastened to the said shafts, and the other end to the moveable side rails H
of the frame or machine. These springs cause the shafts t, and with them
the tape pullies u, to revolve and wind the tapes v thereon, whenever those
tapes are slackened by the breadth of the frame or machine being reduced
by winding in of the racks R, in the manner before described. Web rollers
or beams, made of brass tubes for lightness, are connected together by suitable
axles, and mounted on one side of the frame or machine in the brackets or
hangers and s, before described; and to these rollers or beams are fastened,
by one of the edges thereof, webs of linen, calico, or other suitable cloth or

page_text: material pervious to steam. In the opposite edges of the said webs or cloths
are worked button holes, and in the moveable side rail H, opposite to that to
which these web rollers or beams are attached, there are fixed, at about three
feet asunder, buttons B, to which the said webs or cloths are buttoned down
when the said cloths are drawn over the top of the frame or machine. These
webs or cloths are wound off and on the said rollers or beams by means of the
spur wheels a, 2, 3, which are carried by the brackets or hangers &, and
made to revolve by the application of manual labor, at either end of the frame
or machine, to either of the winch handles A. These webs or cloths are used
to impede the passage of the steam when the texture of the fabric (such as
lace) subjected to its operation or the openings of the pattern worked in such
fabric would permit it to pass through too rapidly. The service cocks d before
described are opened and shut from either end of the frame or machine by levers
or cranks C, one end of the said levers or cranks being fastened on the square
end of the plugs of the said cocks, and the other ends of the said levers or
cranks are forked and jointed to the connecting rods D, which run from one
end to the other of the said frame or machine. Brackets or bearers E clasp
and are screwbolted to the steam main a with roller feet F thereto; and on
the said brackets or bearers E are screwbolted the bearers and guides G of
the connecting rods D, the same bearers and guides & also bearing the fixed
axles on which the levers or cranks H which carry the connecting rods E
when the said rods are in motion. The brackets or bearers I clasp and are
screwbolted to the steam main a, in like manner to the brackets or bearers E,
and like them they are further supported on rollers K. These brackets or
bearers I carry pedestals or bearings L of shafts M, and the said shafts M
carry the levers or cranks N, which levers or cranks N are attached by one
of their ends to the ends of the connecting rods E, and by the other of their
ends they are keyed fast on the ends of the shafts M. On the opposite ends
of the shafts M the levers O, to which the manual power is applied in opening
and shutting the said service cocks d, are keyed fast; the said service cocks
d being opened and shut by depressing or raising the said levers O from a
vertical to a horizontal position, according to the end of the frame or machine
at which such opening or shutting is required to be done. To the moveable
side rails H are fixed angle irons P, and to these angle irons the portable end
rail F is clamped by the clamping screws Q in the forked jaws R at the
extremities of the said portable end rail, the said clamping screws Q being
turned by the levers. S.
The mode of operating with a dressing or getting up frame or machine
when carrying out our Invention is as follows (that is to say):-The breadth of

page_text: the frame or machine is made to approximate to that of the fabric to be dressed
or got up, and when the breadth of such frame or machine exceeds that of
the fabric, the ratchet wheels are released from the palls, in the manner
before described; and the winch handles Y are turned, communicating motion
by spur pinions W and wheels X to the central driving shaft P, and through
the toothed pinions on that shaft to the racks R, whereby the moveablo
side rails are drawn nearer together, and the required reduction in the
breadth of the frame or machine is effected, and the palls are returned to
the teeth of the ratchet wheels, as before described. Whilst the frame or
machine is thus being narrowed or "turned in," the helical springs on the
shafts & cause those shafts to revolve and wind the tapes on the pullies u,
thereby preventing any slackening or sinking of the said tapes. When the
breadth of the frame or machine has been duly adjusted as aforesaid, the
fabric to be dressed or got up is placed on the tension pins and brought into a
state of tension by similar operations to those employed with the unimproved
frame or machine, and which operations have been herein-before described.
The steam jet pipe is then brought near to one of the moveable side rails H
of the frame or machine, by the same means as those by which it is made to
traverse from side to side, as herein described, and the throttle or edge valves
n, or so many of them as may be necessary, are opened by an attendant who
passes bis hand under the said moveable side rail and turns them therewith,
or with a pair of pliers, a wrench, or any other convenient lever. The service
cocks d, or so many of them as may be necessary, are then opened by
depressing or raising the levers O, whether depressing or raising be the
requisite operation to effect this object, depending on which end of the frame
it is to be donc at. When these cocks are open the steam has a free course
from the steam main a through the said cocks, through the vertical service
pipes e, the horizontal service pipes 9 and i, and through the swivel joints
f, h, and j thereof, into the steam jet pipe 7, through which course it rises and
rushes out at the small holes in said jet pipe, and ascends through the fabric
distended on the frame or machine. Whilst the steam is thus issuing from
the jet pipe 1, that pipe is made to traverse from side to side of the frame or
machine underneath the fabric distended thereon, by the attendants turning, by
means of the winch handles w, first one and then the other of the shafts t,
whereby the tapes v are wound on to the pullies u of one of the said shafts,
and off of the pullies u of the other of the said shafts, the jet pipe travelling
on its rollers p on the tram rails 7. Whilst this steaming is proceeding the
fubric is from time to time, by the means before described, further distended,
as found necessary. When the fabric is sufficiently steamed, the service
g

page_text: cocks & are closed by the same means as they were opened, and the fabric is.
allowed to remain distended on the frame or machine until dry, such drying
being effected by the means before mentioned. When the texture of the:
fabric is light, or it is of an open pattern (such as lace), or the steam passes
too rapidly through it, and it is desired to detain it longer in contact therewith,
the webs or cloths before mentioned, or any requisite number of them, are
unwound from the rollers or beams y and drawn over the frame or machine,
and buttoned down to the buttons B. in the moveable side rail, opposite to that.
by which the said rollers or beams are carried, the other side of the said webs
or cloths remaining fast to the said rollers or beams, thus forming a second.
surface parallel above and near to that formed by the fabric under operation,
through which second surface the steain has to pass before it gets clear of the
fabric being dressed or got up. Having performed the process of steaming
we shut off the communication with the boiler and open a communication by a
suitable pipe, not shown in the Drawing, with apparatus for obtaining a heated
blast of air; and we cause air to be forced by suitable blowing apparatus
through such heating apparatus and through the perforations, so as to come
against the fabrics. It should be stated that the applying heated air divided
into numerous jets against fabrics of cotton or silk, or cotton and silk, is
applicable when dressing and finishing in the ordinary manner, and when free
steam is not used; and when so applying heated air the intervening webs, if
any have been used, are to be removed. These webs or cloths, when dry are
wound up on the rollers or beams Y, by means of the spur wheels ¹, 2³, 2³,
which are are turned by the winch handles A. When the above described
and all other operations of dressing or getting up are completed, the fabric is
taken off the frame or machine by "folders," as before mentioned. The com-
bined steaming and distending process above described is a peculiarly advan-.
tageous mode of dressing or getting up fabrics which require damping, or
which require damping combined with a considerable degree of heat, to enable
them to be distended, and of fabrics which have the "dress or stiffening
material woven or manufactured therein, and of fabrics which contain any
natural or artificial gum or other stiffening material, soluble by or capable of
being softened by the action of steam; and also of fabrics which contain any
natural or artificial gum, dress," or stiffening material of any kind, capable
of being dissipated or driven off by the action of steam, and from which it
may be desirable that they should be freed. We would remark, that although
we prefer the machinery as above described, we do not confiue ourselves thereto
so long as such description of fabrics are subjected to free steam when extended;
and when stretching in the width is not necessary, such as is generally the
66

page_text: case with silks, then we have found that they are improved by simply being
caused to move slowly over a trough or vessel into which free steam is
admitted; and for the convenience of keeping such descriptions of fabrics
extended under such circumstances, we simply cause the fabrics to be wound
off one roller on to another, the fabric passing over a trough or vessel, or
otherwise, so as to have free steam applied thereto.
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, and the best means we
are acquainted with for performing the same, we would have it understood
that what we claim is the subjecting fabrics composed of cotton or silk, or of
cotton and silk combined, to free steam, as explained.
And we also claim the applying heated air divided into numerous jets against
fabrics of cotton or silk, or cotton and silk.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Dearman Dunnicliff, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Sixteenth day of July, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine.