IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBOSSING, PUNCHING, CUTTING OUT, FOLDING, AND FINISHING COLLARS, CUFFS, WRISTBANDS, AND OTHER ARTICLES FROM PAPER, PAPER CLOTH, AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Edward Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, for the
Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBOSSING, PUNCHING,
CUTTING OUT, FOLDING, AND FINISHING COLLARS, CUFFS, WRISTBANDS, AND
OTHER ARTICLES FROM PAPER, PAPER CLOTH, AND OTHER FABRICS."-A Com-
munication from abroad by Henry Francis Knapp, of New York, in the
United States of America.
Sealed the 24th March 1865, and dated the 30th September 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Edward Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 30th September 1864.
I, WILLIAM EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBOSSING, PUNCHING,
CUTTING OUT, FOLDING, AND FINISHING COLLARS, CUFFS, WRISTBANDS, AND OTHER
ARTICLES FROM PAPER, PAPER CLOTH, AND OTHER FABRICS," to be as follows:-
The first part of this Invention consists in the employment of embossing
dies and cutters for, first, embossing the surface of the material to be operated
upon so as to imitate the stitching near the edge of a collar, cuff, or wrist-
band, and at the same time cutting out a collar, cuff, wristband, or other
article from the sheet of paper or other material to be operated upon, the
button holes being also punched through at the same time. The embossing
Price 8d1

page_text: dies, punches, and cutters are adapted to a rising and falling plunger, and the
cutters are so formed as to leave the edges smooth and without being bent
over.
The second part of the Invention consists in the use of a feeding frame
provided with self-acting gripping fingers to take hold of the paper or other
material as the frame moves in one direction, and to liberate it as the frame
moves back, and this part of the Invention also consists in combining such
feeding frame with the embossing and cutting dies and punches. The em-
bossing dies and cutting instruments are adapted, as before mentioned, to a
rising and falling plunger or plate which is worked up and down between
guides, by means of an excentric mounted on the driving shaft above.. The
paper or other material is fed forward by reciprocating frames provided with
dogs or fingers for holding the paper. These frames are actuated by means
of vibrating levers mounted on shafts, to which a rocking motion is com-
municated by means of connecting rods from the rising and falling plunger.
Upon the plunger descending the paper or other material will be embossed,
and also pierced for the button holes, and also cut off from the sheet, and
upon the plunger rising the vibrating frame will carry forward the paper or
other material for another embossing, piercing, and cutting operation, the
collar, cuff, or other article cut off from the long length of paper being made
to pass down through the lower or stationary die.
The mechanism for actuating the several parts is so arranged that it can be
set by the operative, so that at the required part of the range of motion of the
embossing and cutting dies and of the feeding frame the machinery will be
automatically liberated from the driving wheel in order to cause a rest of the
operating parts to take place at a certain part of the stroke, so as to allow
time for the proper motions.
The peculiar arrangement of mechanism which I prefer to employ for
effecting this automatic liberation of the mechanism at the required times is
an arrangement for which I intend to apply for separate Letters Patent, such
mechanism being applicable to various kinds of machinery. It may, however,
be stated that for the purposes of the present Invention the band wheel or
driving wheel is mounted loosely on the main shaft, and is temporarily affixed
-thereto by means of a clutch-formed of-an oval pin-placed-in-a-round-hole-
made partly in the shaft and partly in the hub of the driving wheel.
turning this pin on one side the hub will be allowed to run over it, and the
wheel will rotate without acting on the shaft; but by turning the pin in a
vertical direction the two parts will be bound together. This movement of
the clutch pin is effected by a cam acted on by a spring lever.
By

page_text: The reciprocating plunger is formed with its cutting edge inclining down-
wards from the middle towards each end, and a mortise is formed in the
bed with a sharp and square cutting edge, thus constituting a pair of shears
to cut the collars or other articles by a shearing cut from each end towards
the middle without bending the paper at or near the edge.
In folding and finishing paper collars made as herein set forth it is
important to make the fold along a curved line instead of in a straight line,
so that the part turned over may stand out from the band sufficiently to
receive the cravat freely.
Serious difficulty has been experienced in preparing collars in such a
manner that in completing the fold the paper will not break, and as the fold
is made, for the reason stated, along a curved line, it has been found imprac-
ticable to complete the fold by passing the collar between two rollers in
the manner heretofore arranged for completing the fold of collars which are
folded along a straight line, for an obvious reason.
The difficulties above pointed out have been successfully overcome by the
following method of operating:-The collars are subjected one by one to
the action of a roller, wheel, or disc, the edge of which is thin and rounded
so as not to cut the paper. This wheel or disc is mounted so as to turn
freely but accurately on the end of a radial arm which is weighted and
vibrates on a fulcrum pin. A collar, properly shaped, is placed on a table
under the wheel or disc, and to the surface of this table is secured a thin
plate or gauge cut out inside to the form of a collar. There should be one
This table is connected with the
such gange plate for every size of collar.
bed plate by a screw bolt passing through a slot, so that it can be set at any
desired distance from the fulcrum pin, and the radial arm is formed with a
series of holes to fit the fulcrum pin, so that the creasing wheel or disc and
table can be readily set at any desired distance from the fulcrum pin. The
radius of the curve of the line which represents the line of travel of the
wheel or disc can thus be regulated at the will of the operator.
After a collar has thus been creased and folded over it is necessary (to
complete the fold) to press the two thicknesses together along the whole
length of the article. This operation is performed by drawing the collars
one by one between two vertical rollers pressed together and adjusted by
a set screw. These rollers are allowed to turn independently of each other,
and one is shorter than the other, so as not to press against and interfere
with the upper part of the collar.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Edward Newton in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 30th March 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirtieth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four,in the twenty-eighth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said William Edward Newton, Her special license that I, the said William
Edward Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said William Edward Newton, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBOSSING, FUNCHING, CUTTING OUT, FOLDING,
AND FINISHING COLLARS, CUFFS. WRISTBANDS, AND OTHER ARTICLES FROM PAPER,
PAPER CLOTH, AND OTHER FABRICS," being a communication from Henry Francis
Knapp, of New York, in the United States of America, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said William Edward Newton, by an instrument
in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascer-
tain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to
be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Edward Newton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
:-
The first part of this Invention-relates to an arrangement and combination of
embossing dies and cutters for,first, embossing the surface of the materialtobe
operated upon so as to imitate the stitching near the edge of a collar, cuff, or
wristband, and at the same operation punching the button holes and cutting
the collar, cuff, or wristband from the sheet of paper or other material, the

page_text: cutters being so formed as to leave the edges smooth and without being
bent over.
The second part of the Invention relates to a feeding frame provided with
self-acting griping fingers to take hold of the paper or other material as the
frame moves in one direction, and to liberate it as the frame moves back, and
this part of the Invention also consists in combining such feeding frame with
the embossing and cutting dies. The embossing dies and cutting instruments
are adapted to a rising and falling plunger or plate, which is worked up and
down between guides by means of an excentric above. The paper or other
material is fed forward by reciprocating frames provided with dogs or fingers
for holding the paper. These frames are actuated by means of vibrating
levers mounted on shafts, to which a rocking motion is communicated from
the rising and falling plunger. Upon the plunger descending, the paper
or other material will be embossed and pierced for the button holes, and
also cut off from the sheets, and upon the plunger rising, the vibrating
frame will carry forward the paper or other material for another embossing,
piercing, and cutting operation.
The mechanism for actuating the several parts is so arranged that it can be
set by the operator, so that at the required part of the range of motion of the
embossing and cutting dies, and of the feeding frame, the machinery will
be automatically liberated from the driving wheel in order to cause (at a
certain part of the stroke) a rest to take place, so as to allow time for the
proper motions.
In the accompanying Drawings, Fig. 1, Sheet I., is a front elevation of
the machine; Fig. 2 is a horizontal section of the same taken at the line 1, 2,
Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a vertical section of Fig. 1; Fig. 4, a vertical section of
the driving wheel or pulley taken in the plane of the axis of the driving shaft;
Fig. 5 is a face view of the upper die; and Figures 6 and 7 cross sections
taken at the lines 3, 4, and 5, 6, of Fig. 4; Figures 7* are detached views of
parts of Fig. 7; and Fig. 8 is an enlarged view of the griping fingers.
a is the frame, and b the bed, which forms the lower press face or die C,
and what may be termed the female portion of the shears. The lower die c
is simply a flat smooth face of metal, made by preference of steel. There
are three apertures d, d, d, made in it of the form of the button holes required
to be made in each collar; these holes should be formed with sharp square
edges. A mortice f of the size and shape of the intended collar is formed
through the bed C, leaving the upper edge square and sharp, and this form.s
the female part of the shears. To this mortice is accurately fitted a plunger g,
Fig. 5, which forms the male portion of the shears. This is secured to

page_text: the under face of a follower h, which is fitted to slide accurately in suitable
ways i, i, of the frame, and the lower face of the plunger is bevilled in
opposite directions from the middle towards each end, so as to give the
cutting edges thereof (in entering the mortice or female part of the shears)
a shearing cut, so that by this and the accuracy with which it fits the mortice
the collars will be cut with a perfectly smooth edge and without bending
the paper. The face of the follower / by the side of the plunger is provided
with an embossing die c2, whose surface is smooth and parallel with the face
of the die or bed C, and this is provided with three punches d', d¹, d¹, so
as to accurately fit in the apertures d, d, d, in the bed to punch the button
holes, and this embossing die c2 is formed with a groove near the edge, which
corresponds with the edge of the collar, to which groove are fitted the plates
cs, c³, which emboss the imitation of stitching. The follower receives an up-and-
down motion from an excentric j on the horizontal shaft k, or the required
motion may be given by other and equivalent means. Motion is given
to the main shaft by a belt wheel Z, which is actuated in any convenient
manner. At the end of each complete series of operations the machinery
must be stopped, whilst the belt continues to move, and this stoppage
should take place in every instance at the same part of the range of motions.
For this purpose the hub of the belt wheel is mounted to turn freely
but accurately on the shaft, and between collars m and n, the one m being
a shoulder on the shaft and the one na circular plate on the outer face of
the belt wheel, but connected with the shaft so as to turn with it. After
the hub of the belt wheel has been properly fitted to turn on the shaft a
cylindrical hole (see Fig. 7) is bored parallel with the axis of the shaft,
partly in the shaft and partly in the hub of the wheel, and into this is fitted
a turning stop p, having a journal at one end fitted to turn in and extending
through the outer collar or plate n, and projecting sufficiently beyond the
outer face to have attached to it an arm q, Fig. 7, by which the stop p can
be turned. The periphery of the stop p is so cut away that when in the
position represented by full lines in Fig. 6 its outer surface will be like
a continuation of the cylindrical part of the shaft, on which the belt wheel
will turn freely, and in that position of the stop the extremity of the arm q
will be in the position represented by full lines in Fig. 7, but when the
arm is moved inwards towards the axis of the shaft, as represented by dotted
lines in Fig. 7, which is effected by the tension of a spring r, the stop p
will then be turned in the position represented by dotted lines in Fig. 6,
and in that position it will clutch the belt wheel to the shaft, and thereby
communicate motion to the machinery. The required motion for turning

page_text: the stop p to unlock or unclutch the belt wheel is imparted to the arm q
against the tension of the spring by its coming in contact with a cam-
formed spur s projecting from the inner face of a bosst (see Fig. 4) which
slides on the outer end of the main shaft, which is there of a reduced size.
This boss is forced towards the face of the plate n by the tension of a helical
spring u on the shaft, and when so pushed inwards the cam-like spur s is
placed in the path of the arm q, so that in its revolution the arm strikes
the cam surface, by which it is moved outward to turn the stopp to the
position represented by full lines in Fig. 6, thereby unlocking the belt wheel
so that it may continue to turn without the shaft. The boss t is on the end
of an arm v of a rock shaft w, which has another arm or handle x, by which
the attendant can draw back the boss t with its cam-formed spur away from
the path of the arm q, so as to leave it free to be operated by the tension
of the spring r to lock the belt wheel so soon as that portion of the hole o
which extends into its hub reaches the stop p to admit of its turning. By
the proper
relative location of the excentric on the shaft the hole o made
in the hub of the belt wheel and in the shaft, the arm 2 on the stop p, and the
cam-like spur on the boss t, the machinery will stop at the required part
of its range of motions, whilst the belt wheel continues to run, the operator
simply drawing out the boss at any time.
The feeding motion for moving the paper is taken from the follower h,
from which project two brackets a', a', which are connected by rods b¹, b¹,
with two arms c¹, c', of a rock shaft d', from which project two other
arms e, e, the upper ends of which are formed with concentric segment
slots f, f, which receive pins g', g', that project from the ends of a bar
which constitutes the front part of the feeding frame composed of two side
pieces ', h, and two end bars i, . This feeding frame slides on the surface
of the bed to which the bed dio is secured, and between ways, j', and under two
cross plates and 13, one of which acts as a clearer to prevent the cutter
from drawing up the paper. The inner edges of the side pieces h¹, h³, of the
feeding frame are grooved longitudinally to receive the edges of the sheet of
paper and to permit it to slide therein, and they are both of them cut away
at top to receive and permit spring griping fingers m³, m³, Fig. 8, to gripe
and hold the sheet of paper near the two edges. These spring fingers are
so formed that when the feeding frame moves in the direction of the arrow
they will gripe the sheet so as to move it towards and between the dies, and
slide over the sheet as the frame moves back to enable them to take a fresh
hold of the paper for the next operation, the sheet being held as the frame
moves back by similar griping fingers m² m², attached to the cross plate /¹.

page_text: The range of motion of the feeding frame is equal to the width of paper
required for each collar, and by the motions of the feeding frame the end of
the sheet of paper is first brought under the embossing dies and there held
until it is embossed. At the next motion the embossed part is brought
to the cutters, cut off, and discharged below, and by the same motion a
fresh portion is brought under the embossing die. As the motions of the
feeding frame are derived from the follower which carries the cutter and
punches to cut out the button holes, and these in making a collar not only
pass through the paper but into the bed die, the follower with its cutters
should rise sufficiently to get out before the feeding frame begins to move to
feed the paper forward, for that reason the arms e¹, e', of the rock shaft d¹
are formed with segment slots f, f, to receive the pins g¹, g¹, of the
bar of the feeding frame, so that the arms can move for some distance as
the follower is rising before they act on the feeding frame. The other
arnis c', c, of the rock shaft d' are formed with slots u', in which are secured
the wrist pins that form the connection with the connecting rods, so that by
shifting the wrist pins the range of motion of the feeding carriage can be
adjusted to any width of collar required to be made.
The third part of the Invention consists in finishing and folding the paper
collars made as herein set forth.
In the accompanying Drawings, Fig. 1, Sheet II., is a plan, and Fig. 2
an elevation of the machinery used for preparing the fold; and Fig. 3 a plan,
and Fig. 4 a vertical section of the machinery for completing the fold; and
Fig. 5 is a front view of a collar, indicating where the fold is made.
The fold should be made along a curved line, as represented in red at a,
Fig. 5, so that the part when turned over may stand out from the band c
sufficiently to receive the cravat freely.
Serious difficulty has been experienced in preparing collars so that in com-
pleting the fold the paper will not break, and as the fold is made, for the
reason stated, along a curved line a, it has been found impracticable to
complete the fold by passing the collar between two rollers as heretofore used
for folding collars along a straight line. The collars in the machine shewn
are subjected one by one to the action of a roller or wheel d, Figures 1 and 2,
the edge of which-is-thin and rounded so as not to cut the paper. This
on the end of a radial
wheel is mounted so as to turn freely but accurately
arm e which is weighted at e, and which vibrates on a fulcrum pin f. A
collar properly shaped is placed on a wooden table g, to the surface of which
is secured a thin plate or gauge h cut out inside to the form of a collar.
There should be one such gauge plate for every size of collar. This table g

page_text: is connected with the bed plate i by a screw bolt; passing through a slot k,
so that it can be set at any desired distance from the fulcrum pin f. The
radial arm e is formed with a series of holes 7 to fit the fulcrum pin, so that
the creasing wheel & and the table g can be readily set at any desired
distance from the fulcrum pin, and in that way the curve of the line a,
which represents the line of travel of the wheel d can be regulated at the
will of the operator.
A collar is placed on the table g and within the gauge h, and with that
surface upward which is to be inside when folded, and then the wheel dis
rolled over the paper from end to end so as to form a curved crease without
breaking the grain of the paper, so that when taken from the table the
collar can be folded over without breaking the grain.
After a collar has thus been creased and folded over it is necessary (to
complete the fold) to press the two thicknesses together along the whole
length,and as the fold is made along a curved line it will be obvious that such
pressure cannot be made between two flat pressing surfaces nor by passing the
whole collar between two rollers, as either of these modes would destroy the
curved line of the fold and wrinkle the outer part of the collar. This finishing
operation is performed by drawing the collars one by one between two rollers
m and r, mounted to turn freely on vertical stud pins n and s, the former
projecting from the upper surface of a block o, fitted to slide horizontally in
ways formed in a table p, so that it can be adjusted by a screw 2, the latter
projecting from the upper face of the table p, and so located relatively to the
roller m that this latter can be adjusted so that collars of any thickness when
folded can be gripped when passed between them. The roller is shorter
than the one m, and shorter than the width of the folded collar. After the
rollers have been adjusted one end of the collar is inserted between the
rollers m and r, with the folded edge towards the table p and with the band
against the roller m, the end being thus pushed through the folded part is.
drawn between the rollers, the bite of which completes the fold, as shewn
at Fig. 6, the short roller r permitting the swell of the part 6 of the collar
caused by the making of the fold on a curved line to pass mainly above it.
without restraint.
ין
Having now described the Invention that has been communicated to me
as aforesaid, I claim as the Invention secured to me by Letters Patent, the
arrangements herein set forth, or any equivalent mechanism for cutting,
punching, and embossing paper and other collars.
I also claim preparing paper collars for making the fold in a curved line by

page_text: subjecting the paper, whilst resting on a table or other surface, to the action
of a creasing wheel mounted on a radial vibrating arm.
I also claim completing the fold of paper collars which are folded in a
curved line, by drawing them between two rollers, which are free to turn on
independent studs, as herein set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Edward Newton, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Thirtieth day of March, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
J. W. MOFFATT,
66, Chancery Lane.
W. E. NEWTON. (L.S.)