Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 24th May, 1886.
Complete Left, 23rd Feb., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 10th May, 1887.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Figured Fabrics.
We THOMAS TAYLOR, of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton, in the
County of Lancaster, Manufacturers, and JACOB WARBURTON, of the same place,
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of said Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF WOVEN FIGURED FABRICS to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to weaving figured fabrics and it is particularly applicable to
weaving quilts and such like articles in which a coloured figure is produced on a white
ground on one side, the colours being reversed at the back.
The object of our Invention is to obtain a purer or more solid white ground while
at the same time effectually binding the coloured yarn which forms the figure so as
to prevent it from floating too far over the face of the white ground.
In weaving our improved fabric we employ an ordinary loom with heald shafts and
jacquard harness with two warps of equal or nearly equal bulk, the white ground warp
being drawn into the heaks and the coloured warp for the figure into the jacquard
harness. The healds are operated to weave a twilled or satin fabric continuously from
the white or ground warp at the same time that the floated yarn figure is produced on
the face and back of the fabric with the coloured warp by the jacquard harness. We
employ four or any convenient number of heald shafts for weaving the twill, the two
warps being drawn in straight over one heald and one jacquard mail alternately and
the order of the healds is reversed in the heald draft at every point where the tie-up
of the jacquard harness is reversed.
When four heald shafts are used to weave the twilled ground the shedding would
be as follows:-
The 1st and 2nd heald shafts and the jacquard are raised. The floating yarn at the
bottom is bound under the 1st heald and at the top over the 3rd heald.
The 2nd and 3rd heald shafts and the jacquard are raised. The floating yarn at
the bottom is bound under the 2nd heald and at the top over the 4th heald-
The 3rd and 4th heald shafts and the jacquard are raised. The floating yarn at the
bottom is bound under the 3rd heald and at the top over the 1st heald.

page_text: The 4th and 1st heald shafts and the jacquard are raised. The floating yarn at the
bottom is bound under the 4th heald and at the top over the 2nd heald.
By following out the above arrangement we cover up the binding stitches of the
coloured warp on the white ground and the binding stitches in the white figure on the
coloured ground, that is to say, both the binding stitches at the face and the back of
the fabric are concealed and a fabric of superior appearance is produced.
We have described our Invention as applied to a quilt or other fabric in which a
coloured figure is produced on a white ground; it is obvious however that the coloured
figure may be produced on a coloured ground or a white figure on a coloured ground.
Dated this 22nd day of May 1886.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Figured Fabrics.
We THOMAS TAYLOR, of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton in the County
of Lancaster, Manufacturers, and JACOB WARBURTON, of the same place, Designer, do
hereby declare the nature of said Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF WOVEN FIGURED FABRICS, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:
Our invention relates to weaving figured fabrics and it is particularly applicable to
weaving quilts and such like articles in which a coloured figure is produced on a white
ground on one side the colours being reversed at the back."
The object of our Invention is to obtain a purer or more solid white ground while
at the saine time effectually binding the coloured yarn which, forms the figures so
as to prevent it from floating too far over the face of the white ground.
In weaving our improved fabric we employ an ordinary loom with heald shafts and
jacquard harness with two warps of equal or nearly equal bulk, the white ground warp
being drawn into the healds and the coloured warp for the figure into the jacquard
harness. The healds are operated to weave a twilled or satin fabric continuously from
the white or ground warp at the same time that the floated yarn figure is produced-on
the face and back of the fabric with the coloured warp by the jacquard harness.
employ four or any convenient number of healed shafts for weaving the twill the two
warps being drawn in straight over one heald and one jacquard mail alternately and
the order of the healds is reversed in the heald draft at every point where the tie-up of
the jacquard harness is reversed.
We
When four heald shafts are used to weave the twilled ground the shedding would
be as follows:-
1st pick. The 1st and 2nd heald shafts and the jacquard are raised. The floating
yarn at the bottom is bound under the 1st heald and at the top over the 3rd heald.
2nd pick. The 2nd and 3rd heald shafts and the Jacquard are raised. The floating
yarn at the bottom is bound under the 2nd heald and at the top over the 4th heald.
3rd pick. The 3rd and 4th heald shafts and the Jacquard are raised.
The floating
yarn at the bottom is bound under the 3rd heald and at the top over the 1st heald.
4th pick. The 4th and 1st heald shafts and the Jacquard are raised. The floating
yarn at the bottom is bound under the 4th heald and at the top over the 2nd heald.
And in order that our Invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect we have annexed hereto a Sheet of Diagrams.
Figure 1 represents the order of drawing in and tie up of the warps and also the
order of the shedding.
Figure 2 is a longitudinal vertical section and Figure 3 a plan of the fabric woven
according to our Invention.
In Figures 1 and 2 the coloured or figure warp is represented by the fine lines a and
the white or ground warp is represented by the heavy lines b.
The figure warp a is drawn into the Jacquard harness and the tie up is reversed at

page_text: the point as indicated in Figure 1 where the pattern begins to repeat itself but in
the reverse direction. The ground warp is drawn into four heald shafts straight
over the order of the draft being reversed at the point a simultaneously with the
reversal of the tie up of the Jacquard harness and shedded as a four end twill as
previously described and as indicated in Figure 1 two shafts being up and two down
throughout the operation of weaving the cloth. The upper surface binding is shown
at y in Figure 2 where the fine line or coloured figure warp a is bound down into the
cloth under the weft w (while remaining over the heavy line or white ground warp b)
and consequently does not show through in the white on the underside of the cloth.
The under surface binding is shown at z Figure 2 where the fine line or coloured
figure yarn a is lifted up and bound into the cloth over the weft w (while remaining
under the heavy line or white ground warp) and consequently does not show through
in the white on the upper side of the cloth.
む
In Figure 3 is clearly shown the effect produced by the reversal of the Jacquard
harness at the point and the simultaneous reversal of the draft of the healds at the
point. The black squares on the Diagram represent the figure warp over the weft
which is represented where uncovered by white squares. The squares covered by
crossed lines represent the figure warp over the ground warp the last named being
represented where uncovered by plain shade lines.
By following out the above arrangement, we cover up the binding stitches of the
coloured warp on the white ground and in the white figure that is to say both the
binding stitches at the face and the back of the fabric are concealed and a fabric of
superior appearance is produced.
We have described our Invention as applied to a quilt or other fabric in which a
coloured figure is produced on a white ground; it is obvious however that the coloured
figure may be produced on a coloured ground or a white figure on a coloured ground.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said Invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we claim is
1. In the operation of weaving a figured fabric with two warps of which the warp
for the ground is drawn into the healds and the warp for the figure into the Jacquard
harness reversing the order of the healds in the heald draft, simultaneously with the
reversal of the tie-up of the Jacquard harness as and for the purposes herein described
and as illustrated by the accompanying Diagrams.
2. A figured woven fabric manufactured substantially as herein set forth whereby
the binding stitches of the floated warp on the face and back of the cloth are covered
and concealed.
1007
H. B. BARLOW,
17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester,
Agent for Applicants. .