IMPROVEMENTS IN OVERHEAD SEWING MACHINES FOR SEWING KNITTED GOODS
Year: 1884

page_text: I, CHARLES DENTON ABEL of N° 28 Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane in
the County of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN OVERHEAD SEWING
MACHINES FOR SEWING KNITTED GOODS" and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This Invention relates to improvements in overhead sewing machines for sewing
together the parts of knitted goods.
"
The said improvements are shewn on the accompanying Drawings in which
Fig. 1 shews a side view, and Fig. 2 a front view of the complete machine, Fig. 3
a side view of the needle holder, Fig. 4 a front view of the same, Fig. 5 details of
the feed mechanism Figs. 6 and C a modified construction of the same Figs. 7 and 7*
diagrams of the stitch produced, Figa. 8 to 8* leading-in apparatus for shaped goods,
Figs. 9 to 9 leading-in apparatus for cut goods to be folded over during the sewing,
Figs. 10 to 10 a leading-in apparatus for producing a broad folded welt or double
edging for cut goods, such as the edging for jackets, drawers, hose &c.; Figs. 11
to 11 a leading-in apparatus for sewing the heels of hose, the heel being machine-
shaped but the foot cut; Figs. 12 to 12°, a leading in apparatus for sewing the
hollow welt at the top of shaped hose, or double edging for sewn goods.
The machine, which works with either one or two threads, has the following
movements:
1. The needle motion; 2, the motion of the looper; 3, the motion of the loop
holder; 4, the feed motion.
All motions are derived from the shaft A.
1. The needle a is fixed in the needle holder b, Figs. and 4, carried by the
slide c, which is moved horizontally to and fro by an eccentric B from shaft A.
The spring d, serving to give tension to and guide the thread, is opened and closed
by the wedge shaped piece e, so that the thread is left loose on the backward
notion of the needle and is held tight at the forward motion.

page_text: 2. The looper C, consists of a spirally bent hook rotating on a vertical axis
mounted in the arm E of the pedestal D, and driven by a toothed pinion ƒ gearing
with a toothed segment g on the arm F mounted on the pin H and receiving n
rocking motion from the cnm groove J on shaft A, whereby a reciprocating rotary
motion is imparted to the looper. The latter has an eye through which the tliread
is drawn as shewn at Figs. 1 and 2, in order to render the stitch more durable.
For greater strength a second thread may be passed through the eye of the looper.
The arrangement of the second thread reel ax with its tension bx is the same as
with other innchines and need not be further described, but the use of a second
thread passing through the eye of the looper is new and of importance.
3. The loop holder L receives a vertical reciprocating notion, being guided in the
arm E and receiving its motion from the rocking arm O whose rollers takes into
the cam groove P.
4. The feed motion is intermittent; a helically shaped cam M gears with the
toothed wheel N fixed on the shaft w which is carried by the pedestal D and has
at its other end a bevil wheel i gearing with the bevil wheel i on a hollow
spindle m having at top a disc R with serrated rim. The serrations are so formed
that at each to and fro motion of the needle, it passes through a space between
them. The hollow spindle rotates on a pin c' fixed to the base plate.
In order to maintain the bevil wheels always correctly in gear, so as to avoid
looseness of notion whereby the needle might be brought in contact with the
Berrations of R R', the wheel ' is made vertically adjustable upon the spindle m,
being secured by a pinching screw passing through a slot in the boss of the
wheel.
The spindle m¹ and disc R¹ are the same as m and R, being geared thereto by
toothed wheels p p' so as to revolve in the contrary direction. The pin Z' of the
'spindle m' is attached to the hinge S and is held by a spring T, so that the feed
discs KR are pressed_closely together. For introducing the material to be sewn
between the discs R R', these are moved apart by drawing down the lever t,
against which the spring T presses. For this purpose, is connected by a link V
to a double ended lever U (shewn in dotted lines), the other end of which is
connected to a treadle. The motion of m² is, limited by a stop Y fixed to the
framing.
'
In place of the serrated discs R R' may be used discs with smooth rims, as at
Fig. 6 and 6, which feed forward the goods to be sewn without nipping the edge
thereof, this being effected by the springs i fixed respectively to the pins can s¹.
These springs have a notch through which the needle passes.
•
As the edges of knitted goods, whether shaped or cut have a tendency to roll up,
whereby the introduction thereof between the feed dises is rendered difficult, a special
apparatus is used for leading.in the fabric, and at the same time unrolling the edge
thereof close in front of the feed discs. The apparatus is fixed by screws to the
lever y, which is pivotted at a to the arm E. The spring r has two projections u
which bear against the lever y and hold it in its two positions. At Fig. 2 is shown in
full lines the position of the lever and, in dotted lines, the position of the leading-in
apparatus when out of action, while, when in action, the lever rests against the
lower stop u, bringing the leading-in apparatus close in front of the discs R R
Figs. 8 to 8 shew a leading-in apparatus for shaped fabrics, for sewing these at the
height of the half mesh. This consists of a plate a³, which, as stated, is secured
by screws to the lever 3. This plate, shewn detached at Fig. 8, has, at its lower
end, a foot shaped projection 6' and to it are attached on either side by screws or
rivets the parts shewn at Figs. 8' and 8. These pieces consist of a plato spring, c
the lower part of which is also provided with a foot-shaped, thickened, and rounded
projection d. On the inner side they have a projection which fits into a
corresponding slot e in the plate as and which serve to prevent the fabric that is
passed between 65 and d³ from rising up beyond that point. To the front edge of
plate a³ is attached the piece shewn at Figs. S' and 8 which serves for the direct
and accurate introduction of the fabric between the discs R R1. It is for this

page_text: purpose formed with a fork, the space of which is divided into two by a steel®
tongue, thus forming two slots g' g³ lying in one and the same vertical
plane, with the spaces between d³ and b through which slots the edges of the two
parts of the fabric to be sewn together are passed. These edges are first introduced
between and d³, the peculiar shape of the latter causing the edge to unroll as it
passes in, and from between these parts the edges of the fabric then pass into
the slots g g which lead them directly between the discs R R' where they are
sewn together. Figs. 9 to 9 shew a feeding-in apparatus for cut fabrics, but
which can also be used for shaped fabrics. By means of this apparatus the edge
of the fabric is unrolled and is folded over for the seam, an appliance being also
provided for regulating the width of the seam between certain limits. The plate aº,
which as before is screwed to the lever y³, has, at it front end a helically twisted
projection, as shewn at Fig. 9; this projection acts in combination with the two side
plates at Fig. 9, having correspondingly twisted projections be for folding over the
edges of the fabric to the required width. The unrolling of the edges is effected
by the thickened back projections c of the side plates. The separation of the two
edges of the fabric before they pass between the twisted projections is effected
by the projection d of the plate uº. In order to fix or hold the edges, that have
been folded over by the twisted parts, until they are seized by the feed disc³, a
bracket go is fixed to the front part of a, projecting between the twisted parts 66,
and formed with grooves on its lower face, as shown at Fig. 9° detached and at
Fig. 9, whereby the fabric is prevented from unfolding. For adjusting the width
of the fold, studs i, projecting on each side of a are carried by a plate held by
a screw hº in a slot of aº, so as to be capable of vertical adjustment. These studs i
serve as a gauge to determine the height at which the edges of the fabric are
introduced between the side plates at c, and consequently also, the extent to
which they are folde! over. Figs. 10 to 10 shew a leading-in apparatus for
producing hollow seams or welts of varying width on knitted goods, such as
drawers, jackets vests, &c. The plate a7 attached by screws to the lever y³ as
shewn at Fig. 10 has in front a twisted projection b' as shewn at Fig. 104, which
effects the folding over of the edge of the fabric for producing the hollow seam.
For this purpose, there is attached to one side thereof a piece shewn at Fig. 10º,
also having a helically twisted projection c7 which operates in combination with
that, b', for folding over the fabric. The unrolling of the single edge, (there being
only one in this case) is effected by the rounded projection d', shaped as shewn at
Fig. 10. The plate a' also carries a plate e having a rounded bar flying in
the direction of the feed which serves as a gauge to prevent the fabric from passing
up too high. This bar with its holder e' is embraced by a spring g' also attached
to the plate a, and so formed as to press with its rounded end, the fabric to be
sewn against the twisted projections. The curved piece of metal shewn in Fig. 10°
serves as a guide to the fabric. The head piece attached to the front face of a
as at Figs. 10 and 10d secures the turned over edge of the fabric until it enters
between the feed discs . It has, for this purpose, a thin steel tongue u², which
guides the fabric so that it cannot unfold. The spring fixed to the pivot of
the lever y and which bears against the spring 97 Fig. 10 serves to guide the
fabric over the spring g'; it bears against the adjustable slot w7 whereby its
position can be accurately regulated. Figs. 11 to 11 shew a leading-in apparatus
for sewing the heels of hose, but which can also serve for sewing other shaped or
cut goods. The plate a³, secured as before to the lever y³, and shewn detached at
Fig. 11 has at a twisted projection. The plate Figs. 11 and 11 with a
correspondingly twisted part is secured against 68 so that the edge of the fabric
passed between them is turned over thereby. On the other side of be, is a plate d®,
Figs. 11, 11, 11b, having a rounded part f³ that effects the unrolling of the fabric.
The spring g, Fig. 11, holds the unrolled edge until it is seized by the feed discs.
At the side of the part is a thin tongue which separates the folded part
from the part to be sewn at half mesh. The head piece prevents the unfolding"
of the folded part.

page_text: The apparatus for sewing together the edges of a hollow seam or double seam,
folded by means of the apparatus at Figs. 10 to 10%, is shewn at Figs. 12 to 12°:
On the plate a¹, also secured to the lever 32, is formed on each side a part 6º 6º,
the space between which is divided into two by a tongue c³, as that the edges of
the fabric are unrolled and are so brought between the discs R R¹. By the limited
length of the unrolling and learling-in mechanism it is rendered possible to
complete the sewing of the edges of the hollow seams from beginning to end
without interruption.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
First. The use, in overhead sewing machines, of serrated feed discs between
the sensations of which the needle passes, substantially as and for the purposes
described.
Second. The modified construction of feed discs R R¹ described with reference
to Figs. 6 and 6*, wherein the serrations are replaced by notched springs i..
Third. The construction of apparatus described with reference to Figs. 8 to 8*
for leading in shaped fabrics between the feed discs R. R'.
Fourth. The construction of leading-in apparatus described with reference to
Figs. 10 to 10%, operating in combination with the feed discs R R¹ for forming a
broad hollow seam on shaped or cut fabrics.
Fifth. The construction of apparatus described with reference to Figs. 9 to 9¹
for leading in cut fabrics between the feed discs R R¹.
Sixth. The construction of leading-in apparatus described with reference to
Figs 11 to 118 operating in combination with the feed discs R R¹ for sewing
the heels of hose.
Seventh. The construction of leading-in apparatus described with reference to
Figs. 12 to 12 operating in combination with the feed discs R R¹ for sewing
together the hollow seam or welt, or double seam at the tops of hose that are
already sewn.
Eighth. The construction of sewing machines for overhead sewing, combined
and arranged as herein described with reference to the accompanying Drawings.
Ninth. The use, in overhead sewing machines constructed as herein described,
of a second thread passed through the eye of the looper.
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant,
28, Southampton Buildings,
London, W.C.