Iк- PROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FESTOONED EDGING OR TRIMMING
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Engineer and Patent Agent, for the Invention of "Iк-
PROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FESTOONED EDGING OR
TRIMMING." A communication from abroad by Henri François Timothée
Mégraud, Merchant, of 29, Boulevart St. Martin, Paris.
Sealed the 19th July 1864, and dated the 24th May 1864..
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clark at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 24th
May 1864.
I, WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer and Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FESTOONED
EDGING OR TRIMMING," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to improvements in machinery for manufacturing
festooned trimming and all kinds of embroidery edging.
The first operation consists in stamping or cutting by means of a machine
strip of material of the desired width, 'of any suitable length, and of the form
to be given to the trimming; this strip, constituting what I term the foundation
of the edging, is first impregnated with any suitable gummy matter in order to
impart the necessary stiffness before being introduced into the machine. The

page_text: size should be soluble in water, in order that
simply washing the trimming
it may regain its natural suppleness, and be suitable of application to all
kinds of fabrics.
The second operation consists in submitting the strip or foundation to the
action of festooning machines, which are of two kinds, having two or three
threads; in the latter machines the one thread is used for winding on the strip
of material, while the two other threads cross each other, being actuated by
shuttles sliding horizontally, these two threads thus form a kind of woven
edge on the strip. In machines with two threads the first one on which the
strip is wound is guided by means of a rigid rod having a rotary motion, the
second thread being wound on the first mentioned. This object is effected by
means of an arrangement of parts to be herein-after described, and forming
one of the principal features of the Invention. It should be observed that the
word thread employed in the course of the present description includes threads
of cotton, silk, wool of all colors, and also gold and silver threads, of which
different materials the edging may be made. The accompanying Drawings
represent various machinery of this Invention.
The stamper or cutter is represented in Sheets 1 and 2, Fig. 1 being a
front elevation, and Fig. 2 plan of same. Sheet 2 represents details of this
same stamper; Fig. 3 shows a vertical section of same on line 1, 2, Fig. 4,
which is an end view also of same stamper; Fig. 5 shows details of the
punch; while Fig. 6 shows the strip or foundation after it has been cut of the
desired form. In all these Figures the same letters of reference indicate
similar parts where they recur.
a, table of the stamper, carrying the different parts of the machine; b, strip
of material wound on a recl c, mounted on a frame fixed to table a; d, guide
fixed to table a, furnished with small friction rollers, between which the strip
passes before being introduced into the stamping machine; e, socket of
stamper fixed to table a in any suitable manner, and furnished with openings
for receiving the various parts of the machine; f, movable part to which the
punch is attached, and sliding up and down in a dovetailed groove; a spiral
spring placed in cylindrical part g tends to keep the part f constantly raised,
it being only depressed at certain times by an arrangement of parts herein-
after described; h, punch, seen separately in Fig. 5, fixed to the part f, in
which it is mortised and secured by a plate i; j, metal bar, capable of adjust-
ment higher or lower in socket e; k, brass plate or anvil sliding in a dovetail
in part j, and on which the strip of material passes after leaving guide.d, and
is there struck by the punch h. By the continual action of the punch h on
the strip of material a small hollow is made in plate k, which should be

page_text: removed from time to time with a file for the purpose of preventing any
irregularity in the edging; by so doing the plate k will be reduced in
thickness, and as the punch should always have the same motion, it is
necessary to raise it for this purpose by turning the nut 1; the two inclined
planes m, n, are caused to slide one on the other, thus raising the part j, on
which is the plate k. 0, 0, sliding plates dovetailed in each side of socket e,
being regulated in position by thumbscrews p, p, and serving to guide the
edges of the strip of material; q, q, friction rollers, pressing constantly on the
strip on either side of the punch for the purpose of preventing its getting out
of position by the motion of the machine. Thus from the preceding
description it will be seen that the strip or edging is guided on all four sides
during the punching operation beneath by the part k, on each side by
plates o, o, and above by friction rollers q, q. r, driving shaft of the punching
machine turning in bearings cast on table a; s, t, fast and loose pullies keyed
on the end of shaft r; u, fly wheel keyed on the other end of shaft r;
v, cam keyed on the shaft r; a, lever oscillating on a lever at y, one end
being fitted with a friction roller %, on which the cam vacts; ³, second
lever oscillating on a centre at 1, its free end resting on the part f carrying
the punch; this lever receives its oscillating movement from the large lever y
for producing the descent of the punch h, which is again raised by the spiral
spring contained in the cylindrical part of the arm of the punch; 2, fly
wheel keyed on the driving shaft, and furnished with friction rollers gearing
with a slotted wheel on the end of the shaft 3; 4, grooved drum keyed on
the other end of shaft 3, and turning in bearings sliding in a guide having
four uprights 5; 6, drum turning in constant contact with the former by the
action of a spring 7 applied for the purpose; between these drums the strip of
material passes after being punched.. The parts are arranged in such manner
that the wheel 2 only acts on the slotted wheel during the time the punch is
being raised, and vice versa, so that the cylinders 4, 6, draw the edging the
whole length of the punch. In order to apply cutters or punches of different
sizes it is simply necessary to change the lower grooved roller 4. After
passing through the cylinders the edging winds itself on a reel 8, such as are
used in the improved festooning machines, and which I will now proceed to
describe in connection therewith.
Sheet 3 of the Drawings represents a festooning machine with two threads.
In this machine only one arm is used for winding one of the threads on the
foundation or strip, this arm has an intermittent circular motion, during the
intervals of which the second thread contained in the shuttle is wound on over
the first.

page_text: Fig. 1, Sheet 3, shows a plan of this apparatus; Fig. 2 a vertical section
of same on line 1, 2, Fig. 1; Fig. 3- shows details of the slotted 'wheel for
producing the intermittent motion; lastly, Fig. 4 shows details of parts for
driving the shuttle carrying the second thread. The same letters of reference
indicate like parts seen in different positions.
a, framing of the machine, furnished with tie bars suitably arranged for
carrying the various parts of the machine; b, driving shaft of the machine
turning in bearings c, cast on the frame and driven by steam or other power;
d, pinion keyed on the driving shaft b, and communicating motion to the
arm for winding the thread on the strip of material; e, second bevil pinion
also keyed on the driving shaft for communicating motion to the shuttle; f, g,
fast and loose pullies mounted on one end of shaft b; h, fly wheel keyed on
the other end of shaft b; i, tube fixed to framing a by screws j, k; l, feeder
of the strip of edging; o, shaft turning in bearings p, p, fixed to the frame; q,
toothed pinion, receiving motion from pinion. d, and imparting a continuous
rotary motion to a wheel r; s, slotted wheel keyed on shaft o, receiving an
alternate circular motion from wheel r; t, toothed wheel keyed on shaft o;
u, toothed pinion receiving motion from wheel t, being keyed or cast on a
sleeve v, and so turning freely on tube i; x,'arm for winding the thread on
the body of the edging, this arm being fixed to sleeve v, receives an inter-
mittent rotating motion from the slotted wheels by means of parts t, u;
y, bobbin for supplying thread to arm a, and furnished with a stretcher 2,
Fig. 1; 1, shaft turning in bearings, 2, 2, cast on framing b; 3, bevil pinion
keyed on one end of shaft 1, and receiving rotary motion from pinion e, which
is thence communicated to shaft 1; 5; lever oscillating at point 6, and
furnished with a pin 7, taking in the groove of cam 4, whence it receives
its motion; 8, plate fixed to framing b, furnished with a groove 9 and
dovetail 10; 11, second plate connected to the first mentioned; by the dove-
tail joint 10, this plate receives an alternate to-and-fro motion from lever 5,
which it transmits to a shuttle 12 sliding in groove 9; Fig. 1. The shuttle
12 contains the second thread to be wound on the first, which is effected in
the following manner :-The slotted wheel before mentioned is keyed on the
shaft in such position that the intervals between the winding of the first thread
on the edging occur when the thread is in a vertical position, as represented
at Fig. 2, during which intervals the shuttle presents its pointed end between
the small space formed by the said thread and the side 13, Fig. 4, of the
groove. In its forward movement the shuttle thus forces the thread windër
to slide upon it, the latter being returned in front of the shuttle in its bäck-
ward motion, that is to say, against the side of the groove 13, by the aid of

page_text: the spring stretcher. The thread in thus turning round the shuttle winds
on that which it. contains, while the arm resumes its rotation, returns to its
point of departure, and the winding of the thread on the strip again takes
place, and so on in succession, thus forming a real edging stitch. The edging
or material is fed through the tubes i by means of two small friction rollers
14, 15; the first, 14, is grooved, and receives motion from shaft o by means of
an endless screw 16 gearing in a wheel 17; 18, beam on which the manu-
factured edging is wound, mounted on a shaft or spindle 19, carried at the end
of two arms 20, 20, on 'the framing; 21, loose pulley mounted on shaft 19,
receiving its rotation from another pulley 22, keyed on the driving shaft ;
23, spiral spring encircling shaft 19, and pressing a ring 14 constantly
against beam 18; as it is simply by the friction of this ring on the beam
18 that the latter is rotated, it is prevented from turning when the strip
of material presents any resistance to its progress.
In this apparatus I
may dispense with the intermittent motion of the thread winder by substi-
tuting two toothed wheels for the slotted wheels and eccentrics before
described, also giving a sharper turn to the groove of cam 4 by the use
of a larger friction roller with this arrangement of parts the thread winder
will have a continuous rotating motion while the shuttle has a very rapid
rectilinear movement in order to cause the. thread winder to turn round. it.
I may also employ, two threads one enveloping the other by a rotating motion;
for this purpose the shuttle intended for forming the stitch is fixed on a tooth
wheel and thus obtains rotary motion in a horizontal plane. This toothed
wheel is divided into two equal parts, one of which is connected or discon-
nected as required to produce the rotation of the shuttle, or for allowing of the
passage of the arm winding the thread on the edging or strip. These move-
ments are produced by a suitable arrangement of cams and levers or other
mechanical equivalents; I may also employ an annular toothed wheel having
rotary motion and hinged at two places to allow of the passage of the
thread.
"
Three-thread machine. In this machine, which is represented at Sheets 4
and 5 of the Drawings, I employ but one thread for covering the body of the
strip and two threads for forming the stitch; these two threads are supplied
by two shuttles, which pass alternately on each side of the covering thread,
thereby forming a kind of weaving or locking stitch. These threads may be
each of different materials and colors, and thus produce varied effects.
This apparatus is represented in Sheets 4 and 5 of the accompanying
Drawings, where Fig. 1 shows a partial plan of this machine, the part
receiving the manufactured edging being removed, which is shown in Fig. 2;

page_text: Fig. 3 is a section of a machine on line 1, 2, Fig. 1, showing the method of
applying and working the shuttle; Fig. 4 is a section on line 3, 4, Fig. 1,
showing the method of driving the shuttles; lastly, Fig. 5 represents a
portion of the manufactured edging, showing the method of interweaving
the threads. The same letters and figures of reference in this machine
indicate the same parts seen in different positions.
a, framing of the machine, carried by four uprights b, b; c, foundation or
strip; d, Fig. 5, manufactured edging; e, bobbin, on which are placed the
strips forming the foundation of the edging; f, f, tubes through which said
strips pass fixed to the frame by means of binding screws g, the manufacture of
the edging being effected in the small space separating these two tubes; h,
driving shaft of the machine, turning in bearings i, i, cast on the framing of
the machine; j, fly wheel keyed on the end of the shaft h, which latter may
be driven by steam or hand power; 1, bevil pinion keyed on shaft h; m,
similar pinion, receiving motion from the former; it is keyed on the end of
the shaft, turning parallel with but in a lower horizontal plane than the tubes f;
on this shaft is keyed a toothed wheel n, which receives rotary motion from
the driving shaft. 1, 2, 3, 4, dovetailed guides fixed above tubes f, f; 11, 21,
shuttles passing alternately from guides 2, 3, to guides 1, 4; 5, sleeve, fitting
on tube f, and turning in a bearing 6 fixed on the framing; 7, toothed pinion
keyed on sleeve 5, and imparting rotary motion thereto from wheel n; 8,
endless screw keyed on the end of sleeve 5, and communicating rotary motion
to a cross shaft 9 by means of a wheel 10, with which it gears; 11, 12,
eccentrics keyed on the end of shaft 9 in reverse positions with regard to each
other, and producing a to-and fro motion to two parts 13, 14, by means of
rods 15, 16. These slides are guided in their movement by dovetail grooves
17, 18, on the end of the framing. The motion of said parts 13 and 14 has
for object to pass the shuttles from slides 1, 3, to slides 2, 4. 19, endless
screw keyed on the other end of sleeve 5, communicating rotary motion to
a cross. shaft 20 by means of a wheel 21 gearing therewith; 22, 22, bracket
bearings, in which shaft 20 turns; 23, 24, eccentrics keyed on each end of
shaft inversely with each other, and corresponding with 11, 12. These
eccentrics communicate a to-and-fro motion in different directions to two parts
25, 26, sliding in dovetail grooves 27, 28, Fig. 4. For this purpose they
are mounted in bearings 29, 30, forming part of 25, 26; 31, 32, parts fixed to
one of the uprights 29, 30, which by their to-and-fro motion produce the
passage of the shuttle from slides 2, 4, to slides 1, 3; 38, bent arm, fixed to
sleeve 5, and turning therewith; 34, bobbin depending from arın 33, and
furnishing to the latter the necessary thread for covering the foundation or

page_text: strip. These threads are guided in grooves made longitudinally in the arm;
thus it will be readily understood that these shuttles effect, by reason of the
rotary motion of arm 33, the crossing or weaving of the threads, as seen in
Fig. 5. The method of winding off the finished edging is the same as for
machines with two threads. These two machines for manufacturing ornamental
edging may be readily worked by steam power, the fast and loose pullies
enabling the motion to be taken up or arrested, according as the strap or band
is applied to one or other of them.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by tlie said William Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 30th
July 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARK, of 53, Chaucery Lane, in the County of Middlesex; Engineer and
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of May, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-seventh
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said William Clark, Her special licence that I, the said William
Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others ns I, the
said William Clark, executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FESTOONED EDGING OR TRIMMING," a com-
munication to me from abroad by Henri François Timothée Mégraud,
Merchant, of 29, Boulevart St. Martin, Paris, upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said William Clark, my executors or administrators, by
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Clark, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-

page_text: formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying six Sheets of Drawings
hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to
say):
This Invention relates to improvements in machinery for manufacturing
festooned trimming and all kinds of embroidery edging.
The first operation consists in stamping or by means of a machine cutting
a strip of material of the desired width, of any suitable length, and of the form
to be given to the trimming; this strip, constituting what I term the foundation
of the edging, is first impregnated with any suitable gummy matter in order
to impart the necessary stiffness before being introduced into the festooning
machines. This size should be soluble in water, in order that by simply
washing the trimming it may regain its natural suppleness, and be suitable of
application to all kinds of fabrics.
The second operation consists in submitting the strip or foundation to the
action of festooning machines, which are of two kinds, having two or three
threads; in the latter machines the one thread is used for winding the strip
of material, while the two other threads cross each other, being actuated by
shuttles sliding horizontally, these two threads thus forming a kind of woven
edge on the strip. In machines with two threads, the first one, which is
wound on the strip, is guided by means of a rigid rod having a rotating
motion, the second thread being wound on the first mentioned. This object is
effected by means of an arrangement of parts to be herein-after described, and
forming one of the principal features of the Invention. It should be observed
that the word thread employed in the course of the present description
includes threads of cotton, silk, wool of all colors, and also gold and silver
threads, of which different materials the edging may be made. The accom-
panying Drawings represent various machines of this Invention.
The stamper or cutter is represented in Sheets 1 and 2, Fig. 1 being a front
elevation, and Fig. 2 plan of same. Sheet 2 represents details of this same
stamper; Fig. 3 shows a vertical section of same on line 1, 2, Fig. 4, which
is an end view also of same stamper; Fig. 5 shows details of the punch;
while Fig. 6 shows the strip or foundation after it has been cut of the desired
form. In all these Figures the same letters of reference indicate similar parts
where they recur.
a, table of the stamper, carrying the different parts of the machine; b, strip
of material wound on a reel c, mounted on a frame fixed to table a; d, guide
fixed to table a, furnished with small friction rollers, between which the strip
passes before being introduced into the stamping machine; e, socket of

page_text: stauper fixed to table a in any suitable manner, and furnished with openings
for receiving the various parts of the machine; f, movable part to which the
punch is attached, and sliding up and down in a dovetailed groove. A spiral
spring placed in the cylindrical part 9 tends to keep the part f constantly
raised, it being only depressed at certain times by an arrangement of parts
to be herein-after described. h, punch, seen separately in Fig. 5, fixed to the
part f, in which it is mortised and secured by a 'plate i; j, metal bar capable
of adjustment higher or lower in socket e; k, brass plate or anvil sliding in a
dovetail in part j, and on which the strip 6 of material passes after leaving
By the continual action of the
guide d, and is there struck by the punch h.
punch h on the strip of material a small hollow is made in plate k, which
should be removed from time to time with a file for the purpose of preventing
any irregularity in the edging; by so doing the plate k will be reduced in
thickness, and as the punch should always have the same motion, it is
necessary to raise it for this purpose by turning the nut 1;. the two inclined
planes m, n, are caused to slide one on the other, thus raising the part j, on
which is the plate k. o, o, sliding plates dovetailed in each side of socket e,
being regulated in position by thumbscrews p, p, and serving to guide the
edges of the strip of material; q, q, friction rollers pressing constantly on the
strip on either side of the punch for the purpose of preventing its getting out
of position by the motion of the machine. Thus from the preceding
description it will be seen that the strip or edging is guided on all four sides
during the punching operation beneath by the part k, on each side by
plates o, o, and above by friction rollers q, q. r, driving shaft of the punching
machine, turning in bearings cast on table a; s, t, fast and loose pullies keyed
on the end of shaft r; u, fly wheel keyed on the other end of shaft r; v, cam
keyed on the shaft r; x, lever oscillating on a centre at y, one end being
fitted with a friction roller z, on which the cam vacts; z¹, second lever
oscillating on a centre at 1, its free end resting on the part of carrying the
punch; this lever receives its oscillatory motion from the large lever y for
producing the descent of the punch h, which is again raised by the spiral
spring contained in the cylindrical part of the arm of the punch; 2, wheel,
keyed on the driving shaft, and furnished with friction rollers gearing with a
slotted wheel on the end of shaft 3; 4, grooved drum keyed on the other end
of shaft 3, and turning in bearings sliding in a guide having four uprights 5;
6, drum turning in constant contact with the former by the action of a spring 7
applied for the purpose; between these drums the material passes after being
punched. The parts are arranged in such manner that the wheel 2 only acts
on the slotted wheel during the time the punch is being raised, and vice versa,

page_text: so that the cylinders 4, 6, draw the edging the whole length of the punch.
In order to apply cutters or punches of different sizes, it is simply necessary to
change the lower grooved cylinder 4. After passing through the cylinders
the edging winds itself on a reel 8, such as are used in the improved
festooning machines, and which I will now proceed to describe in connection
therewith.
Sheet 3 of the Drawings represents a festooning machine with two threads.
In this machine only one arm is used for winding one of the threads on the
foundation or strip, this arm has an intermittent circular motion, during the
intervals of which the second thread contained in a shuttle is wound on over
the first.
Fig. 1, Sheet 3, shows a plan of this apparatus; Fig. 2 a vertical section of
same on line 1, 2, Fig. 1; Fig. 3 shows details of the slotted wheel for pro-
ducing the intermittent motion; lastly, Fig. 4 shows details of parts for driving
the shuttle carrying the second thread. The same letters and figures of reference
indicate like parts seen in different positions.
a, framing of the machine furnished with tie bars suitably arranged for
carrying the various part of the machine; b, driving shaft of the machine
turning in bearings c cast on the frame, and driven by steam or hand power;
d, bevil pinion keyed on the driving shaft b, and communicating motion to the
arm for winding the thread on the strip of material; e, second bevil pinion, also
keyed on the driving shaft b, for communicating motion to the shuttle; f, g,
fast and loose pullies mounted on one end of shaft b; h, fly wheel keyed on
the other end of shaft b; i, tube fixed to framing a by screws j, k; 1, feeder of
the strip or edging; o, shaft turning in bearings p, p, fixed to the frame;
9, toothed pinion receiving motion from pinion d and imparting a continuous
rotary motion to a wheel r; s, slotted wheel keyed on shaft o, receiving an
alternate circular motion from wheel r; t, toothed wheel keyed on shaft o ;
ut, toothed pinion receiving motion from wheel t, being keyed or cast on a
sleeve v, and so turning freely on tube i; a, arm for winding the thread on
the body of the edging, this arm being fixed to sleeve v receives an intermittent
rotary motion from the slotted wheels by means of parts t, u; y, bobbin for
supplying thread to arm a, and furnished with a stretcher z, Fig. 1; 1, shaft
turning in bearings 2, 2, cast on framing b; 3, bevil pinion keyed on one end
of shaft 1 and receiving rotary motion from piuion e, which is thence com-
municated to shaft 1; 4, grooved cam keyed on the other end of shaft 1; 5,
lever oscillating at point 6, and furnished with a point 7 taking in the groove
of cam 4, whence it receives its motion; 8, plates fixed to framing b, furnished
with a groove 9 and dovetail 10; 11, second plate connected to the first

page_text: mentioned by the dovetail joint 10, this plate received an alternate to-and-
fro motion from lever 5, which it transmits to a shuttle 12 sliding in
groove 9, Fig. 1.
The shuttle 12 contains the second thread to be wound
on the first, which is effected in the following manner: The slotted
wheel before mentioned is keyed on the shaft in such position that at
intervals between the winding of the first thread on the edging occur when
the thread is in a vertical position, as represented at Fig. 2, during which
intervals the shuttle presents its pointed end between the small space formed
by the said thread and the side 13, Fig. 4, of the groove. In its forward
movement the shuttle thus forces the thread winder to slide upon it, the
latter being returned in front of the shuttle in its backward motion, that
is to say, against the side of the groove 13 by the aid of the spring stretcher
2. The thread in thus turning round the shuttle winds on that which it
contains, while the arm resumes its rotation, returns to its point of departure,
and the winding of the thread on the strip again takes place, and so on in
succession, thus forming the real edging stitch. The edging or material is
fed through the tubes i by means of two small friction rollers 14, 15, the first,
14, is grooved, and receives motion from shaft o by means of an endless screw
16 gearing in a wheel 17; 18, beam on which the manufactured edging is
wound, mounted on a shaft or spindle 19 carried at the end of two arms 20,
20, on the framing; 21, loose pulley mounted on shaft 19, receiving its
rotation from another pulley 22, keyed on the driving shaft; 23, spiral spring
encircling shaft 19 and pressing a ring 14 constantly against beam 18; as it is
simply by the friction of this ring on the beam 18 that the latter is rotated, it
is prevented from turning when the strip of material presents any resistance
to its progress.
In this apparatus I may dispense with the intermittent
motion of the thread winder by substituting two toothed wheels for the slotted
wheel and eccentric before described, also giving a sharper turn to the groove
of cam 4 by the use of a larger friction roller; with this arrangement of parts
the thread winder will have a continuous rotating while the shuttle has a very
rapid rectilinear movement in order to cause the thread winder to turn round
it. I may also employ two threads, one enveloping the other by a rotating
motion; for this purpose the shuttle intended for forming the stitch is fixed our
a toothed wheel, and thus obtains rotary motion in a horizontal plane. This
toothed wheel is divided into two equal parts, one of which is connected or
disconnected as required to produce the rotation of the shuttle, or for
allowing the passage of the arm winding the thread on the edging or
strip. These movements are produced by a suitable arrangement of cams and
levers or other mechanical equivalents.. I may also employ an annular toothed

page_text: wheel having rotary motion, and hinged at two places, to allow of the passage
of the arm or needle carrying the thread.
Three-thread machine.-In this machine, which is represented at Sheets 4
and 5 of the Drawing, I employ but one thread for covering the body of the
strip, and two threads for forming the stitch; these two threads are supplied
by two shuttles, which pass alternately on each side of the covering thread,
thereby forming a kind of weaving forming, the locking stitch. These three
threads may be each of different materials and colors, and thus produce varied
effects.
The apparatus is represented in Sheets 4 and 5 of the accompanying
Drawings, where Fig. 1 shows a partial plan of this machine, the part
receiving the manufactured edging being removed, which is shown in Fig. 2;
Fig. 3 is a section of the machine on line 1, 2, Fig. 1, showing the method
of applying and working the shuttles; Fig. 4 is a section on line 3, 4, Fig.,1,.
showing the method of driving the shuttle; lastly, Fig. 5 represents a portion
of the manufactured edging, showing the method of interweaving the threads.
The same letters and figures of reference in this machine indicate the same
parts seen in different.positions.
a, framing of the machine carried by four uprights b, b; c, foundation or
strip; d, Fig. 5, manufactured edging; e, bobbin, on which are placed..the
strips forming the foundation of the edging; f, f, tubes; through which said
strips pass, fixed to the frame by means of. binding screws g, the manu-
facture of the edging being effected in the small space separating these two
tubes; h, driving shaft of the machine turning in bearings i, i, cast on the
framing of the machine; j, fly wheel keyed on the end of the shaft h, which
latter may be driven by steam or hand power; 7, bevil pinion keyed on
shaft h; m, similar pinion receiving motion from the former; it is keyed on
the end of the shaft turning parallel with but in a lower horizontal plane than
the tubes f; on this shaft is keyed a toothed wheel n, which receives rotary
motion from the driving shaft. 1, 2, 3, 4, dovetail guides fixed above
tubes f,f; 1, 2', shuttles passing alternately from' guides 2, 3, to guides 1, 4;
5, sleeve fitting on tube f, and turning in a bearing 6 fixed on the framing;
7, toothed pinion keyed on sleeve 5, imparting rotary motion thereto from
wheel n; 8, endless screw keyed on the end of sleeve 5; and communicating
rotary motion to a cross shaft 9 by means of a wheel 10 with which it gears;
11, 12, eccentrics keyed on the ends of shaft 9 in reverse positions with regard
to each other, and producing the to-and-fro motion of two parts 13, 14, by
means of rods 15, 16. These rods are guided in their movement by dovetailed
slides 17, 18, on the end of the framing.. The motion of said parts 13 and 14

page_text: has for object to pass the shuttles from slides 1, 3, to slides 2, 4. 19, endless
screw keyed on the other end of sleeve 5, communicating rotary motion to a
cross shaft 20 by means of a wheel 21 gearing therewith; 22, 22, bracket
bearings, in which shaft 20 turns; 23, 24, eccentrics keyed on each end of
the shaft 20 inversely to each other and corresponding with 11, 12. These
eccentrics communicate a to-and-fro motion in different directions to two parts
25, 26, sliding in dovetail grooves 27, 28, Fig. 4. For this purpose they are
mounted in bearings 29, 30, forming part of 25, 26. 31, 32, parts fixed to one
of the uprights 29, 30; while by their to-and-fro motion produce the passage of
the shuttles from slides 2, 4, to slides 1, 3; 33, bent arm fixed to sleeve 5 and
türning therewith; 34, bobbin depending from arm 33, and furnishing to the
latter the necessary thread for covering the foundation or strip. These threads
are guided in grooves made longitudinally in the arm. Thus it will be readily
understood that the shuttles effect by reason of the rotating motion of arm 33
the crossing or weaving of the threads, as seen in Fig. 5. The method. of
winding off the finished edging is the same as for machines with two threads.
I may also manufacture the edging with a machine employing three threads,
one of which is supplied by a winder or curved arm, and the two others each
by a shuttle crossing diagonally in grooves made for the purpose. In this
machine I only employ one shuttle thread; and 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, or other
number of threads for covering the foundation or strip.
'Sheet 6' of the Drawings represents a machine employing seven threads.
This machine is furnished with six arms, each of which winds a thread round
the strip or foundation, while the seventh thread, which is contained in a shuttle,
is wound alternately round each of these threads. In this arrangement there
is no intermittent motion, consequently the shuttle requires to have a motion
six times faster than that of the winding arms'; 'for this purpose I employ the
arrangement represented in Sheet 6, Fig. 1 of which shows a plan of the
apparatus; Fig. 2, a face view of the plate on which the winding arms are
fixed; Fig. 3-shows in detail the reverse side of the trimming produced by
this improved apparatus; while Fig. 4 shows in detail the right side of said
trimming. The same letters and figures of reference indicate like parts seen
in different positions.
As in the machine with two threads previously described, the winding of
the shuttle thread on each of the threads carried by the arms before men-
tioned is effected by a rectilinear to-and-fro movement of said shuttle, which
is placed in an inclined position. Many of the parts being the same as those
previously described, I will here only refer to the mechanical arrangements
peculiar to this machine.
.0 !!

page_text: a,
cast-iron framing furnished with brackets b, b, and which may be mounted
on uprights having suitable feet; c, driving shaft turning in bearings d, d, to
the one end of which may be keyed a crank or pullies according to whether the
apparatus be driven by hand or steam power; e, fly wheel keyed on the other
end of the driving shaft; f, toothed pinion keyed on shaft c; g, shaft mounted
in the lower part of frame a, and receiving rotary motion from shaft c by means
of pinions f, h; i, toothed wheel keyed on shaft g, and serving to impart motion
to the winding arms; j, toothed wheel, also keyed on shaft g, imparting motion
to shuttle; k, k, tubes fixed to frame a, through which the edging passes;
7, sleeve turning in bearings m, and through which the tube k passes; n,
toothed wheel cast with sleeve 1, and receiving motion from wheel i; o, plate
also cast on sleeve l, and carrying the winding arms or needles p; 9, plate
fixed to the framing by means of screws, and furnished with a straight dove-
tailed groove and inclined grooves s, t, u, shaft turning in the upper part
of the frame; v, toothed pinion gearing with wheel j, from which it receives
motion, and transmitting it to shaft u. The pinion v has twenty teeth, while
wheel has one hundred and twenty teeth, being in the proportion of one
to six, for the purpose of obtaining the difference of speed before mentioned,
that is to say, the shuttle should travel six times faster than the winders.
y, eccentric keyed on the end of shaft u; z, rod receiving motion from
eccentric y. 1, plate fixed to the head of rod 2, by which its to-and-fro
motion in groove is effected; 2, plate dovetailed in an inclined groove 8.
This plate partakes in the movements of the former, to which it is connected
by a part 3, having an eye at its extremity, through which a bolt passes;
4, shuttle, fitted in groove t, in which it is guided by plate 2.
edging is wound off' in the same manner as that before described.
The finished
Instead of employing six winders, I may have eight or a greater number; in
this case the toothed wheels v, j, would be in the proportions of one to eight or
more. With this apparatus the reverse or wrong side of the edging will
present the threads inclined as represented in Fig. 3, while they will be quite
straight on the right side, being applied in that position by the action of the
shuttle.
This arrangement is particularly applicable for trimmings, and the effects
may be varied by employing threads of different colors for each winder. By
the employment of winders and inclining the threads in the manner described
the right side of the edging always presents the same appearance and regu-
larity as if made by either of the other machines previously described. In
cases where it is wished to incline the threads on each side of the fabric the
needle winders act without the shuttle.

page_text: All these apparatus may be readily driven by steam power, the fast and
loose pullies enabling the motion to be taken up or arrested according as the
strap or band is applied to one or other of them.
Having described the nature of this Invention and the manner of per-
forming the same, I declare that what I claim as the Invention to be pro-
tected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,--
First, the improved machines for stamping or forming the foundation
of the trimming herein described, and represented in Sheets 1 and 2 of the
Drawings annexed.
Secondly, I claim the various arrangements of apparatus for the manu-
facture of trimming or edging herein described, and represented in the
Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clark, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
Witness,
JAMES DAISH,
53, Chancery Lane,
London.
W. CLARK. (L.S.)