Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Collars used as Wearing Apparel,
Year: 1898

page_text: Complete Specification Left, 5th Apr., 1899-Accepted, 20th May, 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Collars used as
Wearing Apparel,
A communication from abroad by the FENWICK COLLAR AND CUFF MACHINE
COMPANY, of Portland, Maine, having their principal office at 24, Randolph
Street, Boston, in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of
America, Machinists.
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES, of 55 and 56, Chancery Lane, in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
:―
This invention has for its object the production of a novel turn-over collar,
and the manner of making the same, for use as an article of wearing apparel.
In this invention the separate plies of material to be used in the formation of
the band have their edges inturned, and the band is made and stitched together,
leaving only a portion of what is to constitute the upper edge of the band open or
unstitched, said edges, however, being inturned, and thereafter the completed top
with its concave edge is inserted between the plies of the open upper edge of the
band, said plies presenting convex edges, and the top and band are united by
stitches passed through and through both.
In this way of making collars very much time is saved, and the junction of the
band and top is made smoother and more uniform than heretofore.
The operator also provides special acute angled corners in the top of the collar
by means of special supplemental infolds.
In the manufacture of this improved collar, the operator takes for the band
usually three pieces or blanks of cloth, two of which constitute the outsides of the
band, and the other being a stiffening piece and of coarser material than the other
two.
In carrying out this invention one end of the blank forming an inturned lip,
is first folded inwardly and next is folded inwardly the lower edge thereof, making
a longitudinal lip, and then there is folded over the upper edge opposite thereto,
forming a second longitudinal lip, and thereafter is folded over the opposite end
of the blank, making a second end lip.
These overturned edges enclose the stiffening strip, and together with a similarly
folded blank placed opposite or face to face thereto, constitute the band of the
collar.
In placing the parts together the overlying end ip of one blank beneath or
within the overlying ends of the two longitudinal folds of the opposite blank,
is inserted, this insertion being accomplished in the same manner at both ends
of the band, so that the band is thereby interlocked at its ends by reason of the
special manner of inturning its edges and ends.
The band having been folded and interlocked as stated, a mark is placed on
the convex edge thereof adjacent one end, this mark designating the point where
the tab end is to begin.

page_text: The band is then stitched through and through, the stitching beginning at the
said mark and continuing to the adjacent corner of the band, and thence across
the end to the next corner and thence proceeds along the lower edge of the band,
and around the opposite end, at which point the sewing machine will be stopped,
the band will be removed, and turned over end for end to bring the before men-
tioned point again under the needle in position to be further stitched.
The top of the collar is now inserted between the open upper or convex edges
of the plies of the band, one end of the top part being pushed against the stitches
at the marked point where the stitching began, thereby accurately positioning
the top.
In this condition the machine is again started, and the stitching is carried on
from the said marked point to the opposite end of the band, the stitches passing
through and through all the superposed thicknesses both of the band and the
inserted top.
The top is usually made of three pieces which are cut to the proper shape, and
the longitudinal edges are first inturned to form longitudinal lips, the end edges
being then inturned and thereafter at the acute angled corners a supplemental
fold in the form of an overlying pleat is preferably made so that the opposite
blanks or plies may be placed flat against each other face to face, and stitched
through and through from the outside without requiring any subsequent turning
or manipulating, but being left in condition to be inserted directly within the
opening left in the convex edge of the band before mentioned, and stitched.
By marking the band as stated, and starting the stitches at that point, the
operator is provided with a gauge which always accurately indicates and defines
the point at which the end of the top part shall be inserted in order that said top
part shall be connected uniformly with the band and equi-distant from both ends
of the band, thereby ensuring not only accuracy of making the separate collars,
but also ensuring that all the collars shall be uniform with each other.
By interlocking the ends of the band a much more secure and better collar is made
than were the inturned edges thereof laid one on the other, as has commonly been
practiced heretofore.
The collar band constructed according to my invention comprises two or more
plies, each outer ply having its sides and ends infolded and lying flat, one end
fold of each ply lying flat upon the fabric, the side folds lying upon said end folds
and the fabric, and the opposite end fold of each ply lying upon the side folds, the
respective plies being stitched together.
This band has its plies inturned in order, first at one end, one edge, the opposite
edge, and then at the other end, the inturned edges overlapping and retaining
the first end fold, and the last end fold overlapping and retaining the said edge
folds.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Collars used as
Wearing Apparel.
A communication from abroad by the FENWICK COLLAR AND CUFF MACHINE
COMPANY, of Portland, Maine, having their principal office at 24, Randolph
Street, Boston, in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of
America, Machinists.
L. ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES. of 55 and 56 Chancery Lane in the County of

page_text: | London, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
-
Prior to this invention it has been customary in the manufacture of turn over
collars to first make the top, it presenting a concaved or incurved lower edge, and
then to unite the said top to separate disconnected inner and outer plies of the
material to form the band, said band presenting convex or outcurved edges which
are united to the concave edges of the top, and these band-plies having been st.tched
to the top the band-plies are turned over away from and off from the top, such
turning over of the band concealing under the band the stitches which are used
to unite the band with the top, and there-after the two plies of the band are in-
folded each at such longer edges and ends and are then stitched together to com-
plete the band.
Great difficulty is, however, experienced in the manufacture of collars in this
old way because of the fact that the concave edge of the top and the convex edge
of the band must be sewed together smoothly, they presenting different curves,
and in this sewing one or the other usually the band material--is stretched, so
that after the band has been stitched to the top the ends of the band have to be
cut off to leave the botton hole-tabs of uniform length from the ends of the top of
the collar.
This invention has for its object the production of a novel turnover collar and
also resides in a novel manner of making a turnover collar.
In this invention the separate plies of material to be used in the formation of
the band have their edges inturned and the band is made and stitched together,
leaving only a portion of what is to constitute the upper edge of the band open or
unstitched, said edges, however, being inturned, and thereafter the completed top
with its concave edge is inserted between the plies of the open upper edge of the
band, said plies presenting convex edges, and the top and band are united by
stitches passed through and through both.
In this way of making collars very much time is saved, and the junction of the
band and top is made smoother and more uniform than heretofore.
In the drawings, Fig. 1 represents an inner side view of the outer and inner
plies of the band.
Fig. 2 shows the same turned over, with their inturned edges in contact and
locked for stitching.
Fig. 3 shows the inner sides of the plies used to form the top of the collar.
Fig. 4 shows the said plies of the top put together and put into the open top
space of the band.
Fig. 5 shows the inlocked ends of the band supposed to be stitched together.
Fig. 6 shows the ends of the band put nearly together preparatory to interlock-
ing them, as in Fig. 5.
Fig. 6 is a section through the acute-angled corner of one part of the top of
the collar on the line, Fig. 3, to show the supplemental infold.
Fig. 7 is a section through the collar on the dotted line ., Fig. 4.
Fig. 8 shows the collar completed.
In the manufacture of this improved collar I take for the band usually three
pieces or blanks of cloth a, b and c, a constituting one side of the band and band c
the other side of the band, the part e being used chiefly for stiffening and being
of coarser material than the parts a and b.
The parts b and c are laid one on the other and thereafter said parts 6 and e
are treated together as is treated the part a, and hence I need specifically to
describe the treatment of but one of these parts to understand both.
For instance, in Fig. 1 the dotted lines show the part laid out flat, and the
full lines show the edges of this part folded in upon itself. These folds are of the
essence of this invention, and I will now describe them.
I first fold inwardly one end of the part 6 forming an inturned lip 61, and next
:

page_text: 1 fold inwardly the lower edge of the part b, making a longitudinal lip 62, and then
1 fold over the upper edge opposite thereto forming a second longitudinal lip
and thereafter I fold over the opposite end of the blank making a second end
lip b
These overturned edges enclose the stiffening strip c of the band. Taking
the other part a of the band the lip is first turned in and then the edge a², and
thereafter the edge a³, and, finally, the end at.
Now turning the part a, having its edges folded over, as described, upwardly
from the position Fig. onto the part b, c, the lip at is put into the space between
the corners 2, 2, and the inturned lip 6', while the lip b is put into the space
between the corners 3, 3, and the inturned lip a¹.
In placing the parts together, I insert the overlying end lip of one blank
beneath or within the overlying ends of the two longitudinal folds of the opposite
blank, this insertion being accomplished in the same manner at both ends of the
band, so that the band is thereby interlocked at its ends by reason of the special
manner of inturning its edoes and ends.
The band having been folded and interlocked as stated, I place a mark on the
convex edge thereof adjacent one end, this mark designating the point where the
tab end is to begin and the point at which the stitching shall be commenced to
unite the two or more plies of the band, the stitching beginning at the said mark a
and continuing to the adjacent corner 4 of the band, and thence across the end
to the next corner 5, and thence proceeds along the lower edge of the band to the
corner 6, and across the opposite end to the corner 7, at which point the sewing
machine will be stopped, the band will be removed, and turned over end for end
to bring the before mentioned point again under the needle in position to be
further stitched.
The top of the collar is now inserted between the open upper or convex edge of
the plies of the band, one end of the top part being pushed against the stitches
at the marked point a where the stitching began, thereby accurately positioning
the top.
In this condition the sewing machine is again started, and the stitching is
carried on from the said marked point to the opposite end 7 of the band, the
stitches passing through and through all the superposed thicknesses both of the
band and the inserted top.
Referring to Fig. 3, d represents one part of the top and f another part, they
containing plies e, chiefly employed for holding the starch or stiffening substance
and coming between the parts & and f.
These pieces of cloth d, e and f, are cut of the proper shape, and are put into
a sewing machine, and the edges and flare first turned inwardly to form lips
and then the edges d,, and f, f, and thereafter at the acute angled corners
I make in the edges d², and f, f, at said corners a supplemental fold, as d', f*,
such supplemental folds turning in and plaiting, as it were, the ends of the over-
turned portions &², №³, and f², f³, so that they will not project beyond the edge of
the collar. In this condition the top part of the collar may be turned down-
wardly from Fig. 3 over upon the part e, f, the overturned portions lying together,
the opposite blanks or plies being placed flat against each other face to face, ready
to be inserted directly within the opening left in the convex edge of the band.
before mentioned, and stitched, the parts being stitched through and through
from the outside without requiring any subsequent turning or manipulating.
The sectional view, Fig. 7, shows the collar completed, and therein it will be
seen that the top part and the band are united by a line of through-and-through
stitches, as h.
The top part may be made of two or any number of plies, and in Fig. 7, I have
shown four plies, and these are stitched together on three edges, as indicated by
dotted lines in Figs. 4, 7 and 8.
Referring to Fig. 6, the ends of the two parts of the band are shown as put
nearly together and the part at will be put into the space between the corners 2,

page_text: and thereafter the said edges will be stitched together closely, leaving them inter-
locked, as best shown in Fig. 5.
By marking the band at a and starting the stitching at that point the operator
is provided with a gauge, which always accurately indicates and defines the point
at which the end 10 of the top part shall be inserted in order that said top part
shall be connected uniformly with the band and equidistant from both ends of the
band, thereby ensuring not only accuracy of making the separate collars, but also
ensuring that all the collars shall be uniform with each other.
By interlocking the ends of the band a much more secure and better collar is
made than were the inturned edges thereof laid one on the other, as has commonly
been practised heretofore.
The collar band constructed according to this invention comprises two or more
plies, each outer ply having its sides and ends infolded and lying flat, one end
fold of each ply lying flat upon the fabric, the side folds lying upon said end folds
and the fabric, and the opposite end fold of each ply lying upon the side folds,
the respective plies being stitched together.
Figs. 1 and 2 show clearly the convex upper edge of the band, while Fig. 3
shows clearly the concave lower edge of the top.
Referring now to Fig. 6, the longer top edge f¹ and the end f³ are shown
inturned, said inturned lip being provided with a supplemental inturn f, such
supplemental infold shortening, as it were, the inturned lip ƒ³, and confining its
end within the outer boundary lines of the edge made by turning over the edge f³
and f.
This band has its plies inturned in order, first at one end, one edge, the opposite
edge, and then at the other end, the inturned edges overlapping and retaining
the first end fold, and the last end fold overlapping and retaining the said edge
folds.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
1. A band composed of two or more plies, the outer plies constituting the sides
of the band being turned inwardly at their longer edges, the said longer edges
overlapping at one end of each ply of the band an inturned end, and being over-
lapped at the other end of each ply of the band by an inturned end, the said
assembled plies having at each end an overlapping inturned end inserted into an
inturned end of the opposed half of the band which is overlapped by said longer
edges, both of said plies being stitched together, leaving the ends of the band
interlocked one with the other, substantially as described.
2. A band composed of two or more plies, the outer plies constituting the sides
of the band being turned inwardly at their longer edges, the said longer edges
overlapping at one end of each ply of the band an inturned end, and being over-
lapped at the other end of each ply of the band by an inturned end, the said band
having at each end an overlapping inturned end inserted into an inturned end of
the opposed half of the band which is overlapped by the longer edges, both of said
plies being stitched together, leaving the ends of the band interlocked one with
the other, combined with a top inserted into the open upper edge of the band
between its ends, and united thereto by stitches, substantially as described.
3. A collar band comprising two or more plies, each outer ply having its sides
and ends infolded and lying flat, one end fold of each ply lying flat upon the
fabric, the side folds lying upon said end folds and the fabric, and the opposite
end fold of each ply lying upon the side folds, said respective plies being secured
together, substantially as described.
4. A collar-band comprising two or more plies, each outer ply having its sides
and ends infolded and lying flat, one end fold of each ply lying Hat upon the fabric.
the side folds lying upon said end folds and the fabric, and the opposite end fold

page_text: of each ply lying upon the side folds, and the respective plies being secured together
in reverse position with respect to the end folds, substantially as described.
5. A collar composed of a top having its band edge concave, and placed between
the open convex upper edge of the band, the said edge of said band being turned
and partly stitched to provide an accurate gauge for the top prior to placing the
top between the open upper edge of the band, the said band and top being there-
after stitched together by through and through stitches, substantially as described.
6. The herein described method of manufacturing turnover collars, the same
consisting in uniting the two or more plies to form the band at the point where is
to be located the end of the top, and then stitching said hand from said point about
the adjacent end and along its underside and about its opposite end, leaving
unstitched the upper edge from the said point to the last mentioned end; then
putting the top of the collar into the open upper edge of the band with one end
of the top at the said point against the stitches thereat, thus gauging the position
of the top with relation to the band, and thereafter stitching the lower edge of the
top and the upper edge of the band together from the gauging point to the opposite
end of the top and band, substantially as described.
7. The herein described collar and its method of manufacture.
Dated the 4th day of April 1899.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 and 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 and 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant