IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Robert Barlow Cooley, of the Town and County
of the Town of Nottingham, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD, AND IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE."
Sealed the 26th November 1869, and dated the 2nd June 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Robert Barlow Cooley
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his l'etition,
on the 2nd June 1869.
I, ROBERT BARLOW COOLEY, of the Town and County of the Town
of Nottingham, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR
THE HEAD, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN BUCH MANU
FACTURE," to be as follows:-
My Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of hats or
other coverings for the head, and to machinery or apparatus employed in
such manufacture.

page_text: In the Specification of Letters l'atent granted to me, bearing date the
10th day of November 1864, No. 2790, 1 have described an improved
manufacture of hats and other coverings for the head formed without a
seam by blocking into the desired form one or more thickness of knitted,
looped, or other elastic fabric, such fabric not being a fabric woven
with warp or weft in a loom. Now when forming hats or other coverings
for the head according to the Specification above referred to, where a
central thickness of fabric is employed in combination with an exterior
and interior thickness of fabric, I have found that it is desirable to apply
prooting to such central thickness of fabric, and to interpose a layer of
gutta percha on both sides of such central thickness between it and the
exterior and interior thicknesses of fabric.
A slight pressure with a
heated iron upon the combined fabrics will then cause sufficient cohesion
to hold them together preparatory to the subsequent processes 19
hereafter described.
When forming a hat or other covering for the head from one thickness
of elastic fabric only I apply proofing to such fabric. I next take the
pieces of fabric of suitable form and prepared as above described and
steam them, after which they can be shaped or blocked into a seamless
hat or other covering for the head.
When forming a seamless hat or other covering for the head from flat
pieces of elastic fabric, felt, cloth, velvet, plush, or other woven fabric
proofed and prepared as above described 1 provide a table having a
suitable aperture for the crown of the hat, and into this aperture a mould
or hollow shape for forming a hat of the desired form may be inserted or
placed over the aperture or secured upon the table. The edge of the
mould or hollow shape is surrounded by a blocking ring of a suitable
shape for forming the brim of the hat or other covering for the head, and
this ring may be removable, so as to be replaced by rings of different
shapes. Above the table I arrange a pressing or holding ring, which can
be lowered and pressed by means of springs upon the table or upon a
suitable surface provided around the ring which surrounds the hollow
shape or mould. A piece of fabric or material prepared as above
described is first placed upon the table over the hollow shape or mould,
and the surrounding ring and the pressing or holding ring is then
brought down upon the fabric or material. Within the holding and
pressing ring arrange a central plunger or block, shaped similarly
to the interior form of the hollow shape or mould, such central plunger

page_text: or block being so arranged that it can be lowered info the hollow shape
or mould, and after the pressing or holding ring has been brought down
upon the fabric or material, the central plunger or block is caused to
descend and draw the fabric or material from all sides from under the
pressing or holding ring over the ring for forming the brim and into the
hollow shape or mould, so as to form a seamless hat or other covering
for the head. The holding or pressing ring and plunger may be mounted
upon a sliding frame or bar and lowered by means of a treadle or lever,
the sliding frame or bar when descending acting by means of springs
upon the holding or pressing ring, and so as to apply a greater pressure
the further the central plunger enters the hollow shape or mould. When
using a mould the fabric may be drawn from under the pressing or
holding ring into the mould by means of an elastic cushion and hydraulic
pressure.
The apparatus is heated, and after the hat or other covering is shaped
the parts are secured for a suflicient time for the heat to set the hat or
other covering, after which the plunger or block is withdrawn from the
mould and the hat removed.
Cork may be used as a body or to form a lining for hats or other
coverings for the head manufactured as herein-before described.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Robert Barlow Cooley in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 2nd December 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ROBERT
BARLOW COOLEY, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Second day of June, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, Her special licence
that I, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,

page_text: and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATH OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD, AND IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN EUCH MANUFACTURE,"
upon the
condition (amongst others) that 1, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that 1, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
My Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of hats or
other coverings for the head, and to machinery or apparatus employed
in such manufacture.
In the Specification of Letters Patent granted to me, bearing date the
10th day of November 1864, No. 2790, 1 have described an improved
manufacture of hats and other other coverings for the head formed without
a seam by blocking into the desired form one or more thicknesses of
knitted, looped, or other elastic fabric, such fabric not being a fabric
woven with warp or weft in a loom. Now when forming hats or other
coverings for the head according to the Specification above referred to,
where a central thickness of elastic fabric is employed in combination
with an exterior and interior thickness of clastic fabric I have found
that it is desirable to apply proofing to such central thickness of fabric
and to interpose a layer of gutta percha on both sides of such central
thickness between it and the exterior and interior thicknesses of fabric.
A slight pressure with a heated iron upon the combined fabrics will
then cause sufficient cohesion to hold them together preparatory to the
subsequent processes, as hereafter described.
When forming a hat or other covering for the head from one thickness
of elastic fabric only I annly proofing to such fabric.
T

page_text: pieces of fabric of suitable form and prepared as above described and
steam them, after which they can be shaped or blocked into a seamless
hat or other covering for the head.
When forming a seamless hat or other covering for the head from flat
pieces of elastic fabric, felt, cloth, velvet, plush, or other woven fabric
proofed and prepared as above described 1 provide a table having a suit-
able aperture for the crown of the hat, and into this aperture a mould or
hollow shape for forming a hat of the desired form may be inserted or
placed over the aperture or secured upon the table. The edge of the
mould or hollow shape is surrounded by a blocking ring of a suitable shape
for forming the brim of the hat or other covering for the head, and this
ring may be removeable, so as to be replaced by rings of different shapes.
Above the table I arrange a pressing or holding ring which can be lowered
and pressed by means of springs upon the table or upon a suitable surface
provided around the ring which surrounds the hollow shape or mould.
A piece of fabric or material prepared as above described is first placed
upon the table over the hollow shape or mould, and the surrounding
ring and the pressing or holding ring is then brought down upon the
fabric or material. Within the liolding or pressing ring I arrange a
central plunger or block shaped similarly to the interior form of the
hollow shape or mould, such central plunger or block being so arranged
that it can be lowered into the hollow shape or mould, and after the
pressing or holding ring has been brought down upon the fabric or
material the central plunger or block is caused to descend and draw the
fabric or material from all sides from under the pressing or holding ring
over the ring for forming the brim and into the hollow shape or mould,
so as to form a seamless hat or other covering for the head. The holding
or pressing ring and plunger may be mounted upon a sliding frame or
bar and lowered by means of a treadle or lever, the sliding frame or bar
when descending acting by means of springs upon the holding or
pressing ring, and so as to apply a greater pressure the further the
central plunger enters the hollow shape or mould. When using a mould
the fabric may be drawn from under the pressing or holding ring into
the mould by means of an elastic cushion and hydraulic pressure.
The apparatus is heated, and after the hat or other covering is shaped
the parts are secured for a sufficient time for the heat to set the hat or
other covering, after which the plunger or block is withdrawn from the
mould and the hat removed.

page_text: Cork may be used as a body or to form a lining for hats or other
coverings for the head manufactured as herein-before described.
And in order that my improvements in machinery or apparatus
employed for shaping hats or other coverings for the head in accordanco
with my Invention may be most fully understood and readily carried into
practice, I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed.
Figure 1 shows a front elevation of a machine arranged and constructed
according to my Invention for shaping or pressing hats or other coverings
for the head, the parts being in the position they assume before the
pressing block or form e descends to press the fabric for forming the hat
into the aperture in the table a; Figure 2 shows a similar view when
the parts are in the act of pressing the fabric into the shape required;
and Figure 3 is a plan of the table a and other parts of the machine
partly in section.
a is a table fixed to and supported upon the framing a', a', 'a central
opening being formed in the table a into which the crown of the hat
descends in the process of shaping. Vertical rods or guides a³, a², are
fixed upon the upper surface of the table a, their upper ends being con-
nected together by the tie bar a³, as shewn; b is a cross head through
the ends of which the rods or guides a³, a³, pass, and by which it is
guided in its up-and-down movements; c is a blocking ring for forming
the brim of the hat or other covering for the head, the ring c being
placed over or around the aperture in the table a, the shape and dimen-
sions of such ring c depending upon the shape or size of the brim of the
hat to be formed or shaped thereon; d is a pressing or holding ring or
frame supported above the table a by means of rods d', d', fixed to arms
or projections, &, upon the ring d. The rods d', d', pass up through
openings formed in the ends of the arms or guides b, b, fixed to the
cross head b, as shown, nuts or other enlarged surfaces being secured
on the upper ends of the rods d', d', by which means the ring dis
suspended to the cross head b when raised above the surface of the
fable a; d, d, are coiled springs around the rods d', d', such springs
being compressed between the arms b, b, upon the cross head b, and the
arms, d, upon the ring d when the cross head in its descent causes
the pressing or holding ring d to press upon the surface of the table a
around the outer circumference of the blocking ring c, the pressure of

page_text: the springs d, d³, increasing as the cross head descends; e is a central
plunger or shaping block supported by bracket b³, b, fixed upon the
cross head b, the block e being thus supported within the inner circum-
ference of the pressing ring or frame d. The block or shape e is formed
so that it can be readily removed by sliding the horizontal pins * side-
ways so as to disengage them from the supporting brackets b. The
ring c is also separate from the table a, so that others can be readily
substituted of different sizes and forms when required. The cross head b,
the pressing ring d, and the shaping block e, are caused to descend in
the following manner :-f, f, are links or connecting rods, the upper ends
of which are attached by means of pin joints to the outer ends of the cross
head b, the lower ends of such links being attached to lever arms f
attached to the treadle frame f which moves on axes at f³, f, as shown.
9, 9, are sliding adjustable stops which can be fixed by set screws in any
desired position upon the guide rods a³, a³, to determine the distance to
which the shaping block e is allowed to descend, and g', g' are other
moveable stops above the cross head a which are secured upon the rods
a, a, by set screws to prevent the cross head and block e from rising
until the fabric and materials forming the pressed shape have set or
assumed a permanent form upon the block, heat being applied by means
of a jet of gas h arranged within the chamber h' (shewn in section in
Figure 1) below the table a, or other suitable means of applying heat
may be employed. When the cross head is released it is caused to ascend
with the pressing block by means of the weighted lever i moving on a
pin joint at on the standard fixed on the table a, one end of the
lever passing through a slot in the cross head b, the opposite end having
a weight thereon. In order to press or shape a hat or other covering
for the head by means of the machine previously described the fabric or
fabrics for this purpose, prepared as previously described, is first laid
over the opening in the table a and over the blocking ring c, the
treadle is then depressed by the foot of the workman, which causes
the cross head to descend, the holding ring d pressing the fabric down
upon the table a around the blocking ring c with sufficient pressure
to prevent the fabric from being depressed unequally as the pressing
block e descends to form the shape of the liat or other covering for the
lead thereon.

page_text: claim according to the first part of my improvements in the manufacture
of hats or other coverings for the head is,-
First. The preparation of the knitted, looped, or other similar elastic
fabric employed for the manufacture of hats or other coverings for the
head, as described in the Specification of a Patent granted to me, dated
November 10th 1864, No. 2790, such fabric being prepared previous to
being blocked or shaped by the application of proofing " to the central
thickness and in combining layers of gutta percha therewith, substan-
tially as and for the purpose herein-before described.
Secondly. I claim the application of "proofing "to elastic fabrics
when forming a hat or other covering for the head from one thickness
only of such fabrics, substantially as herein-before described.
Thirdly. I claim the arrangement and combination of machinery or
apparatus for forming and shaping hats wherein a pressing and holding
ring d is employed for holding and delivering the piece or pieces of
fabric uniformly whilst being pressed into shape by the block a shape e,
substantially as and for the purpose herein described and shown in the
accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, tlie said Robert Barlow Cooley, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this First day of December,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
nina
Witness,
J. G. TONGUE,
Patent Agent,
34, Southampton Buildings,
Chancery Lane, W.C.
R. B. COOLEY. (L.S.)