Improvements in Mechanism for Stitching Button Holes and similar Work, chiefly Designed as an Attachment to a Sewing Machine.
Year: 1884

page_text: Improvements in Mechanism for Stitching Button Holes and
similar Work, chiefly Designed as an Attachment to a Sewing
Machine.
[Communicated from abroad by Bernard Kahl, of Paris, France.]
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine Lake and Co, Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings London in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare
the nature of said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MECHANISM FOR STITCHING
BUTTON HOLES AND SIMILAR WORK, CHIEFLY DESIGNED AS AN ATTACHMENT TO
A SEWING MACHINE" to be as follows:-
:-
This Invention relates to attachments for sewing machines, and particularly to
that class of machines in which straight needles are employed, and its object is to
stitch button holes, and form stitches such as whip-stitches which are used for
sewing leather linings in hats, zig-zag lock stitches and similar stitches.
By means of this Invention any sewing machine may be converted into a
button-hole machine without difficulty and the attachments, when not required,
can be readily removed. This apparatus operates so as to impart to the material
in which a button-hole is being made, or which is being stitched, the necessary
transverse and forward movements.
In order to better illustrate the Invention I have shewn the same in the
accompanying Drawing as applied to a "Howe" sewing machine.
Figure 1 is a side elevation of the sewing machine provided with the improved
apparatus.
Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same.
Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 are views hereinafter described.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts throughout the
Drawings.
This
The movement of the material in which the button hole is being made such as
leather, felt, or linen is effected by means of the wheel b Figure 5 rotating upon
its spindle a, and by means of a friction device actuated by the lever c.
movement of the wheel causes the material to advance a distance equal to one
stitch at each rotation of the driving shaft of the machine, and in order to produce
alternately the transverse movements above mentioned the said wheel is subjected
Prins 71

page_text: As
to another movement to the right or to the left hand side resulting from the action
of the oscillating plate d and transmitted to this wheel by means of the arm e.
shewn in Figures 1 and 2 the wheel b is mounted by means of its spindle a upon
the arm or wheel carrier a¹ which is likewise mounted upon the presser foot bar of
the sewing machine so as to be able. to rotate upon the shaft b'. A piece c' is
jointed to the piece d' by means of the shaft b' but the arm or wheel carrier is
capable of oscillating freely upon this shaft both to the right and to the left handl
side, and is held in position when operating by the thumb piece e¹ which is jointed
by means of a hinge upon the piece c' and which enters a slot in the arm or wheel
carrier a¹ in order to hold the two pieces a¹ and c¹ together at the time they come
into operation.
The oscillating piece d is mounted upon the head of the machine by means of
two screws ff or by any other means necessary for fixing the box g which carries
this oscillating piece and the pieces actuating the same. A rod h is caused to slide
vertically in the box g by means of the arm i of the needle holder which raises the
said rod at each rotation of the shaft by bearing against the projection j fixed upon
the said rod as shewn in Figure 3. A spring effects the lowering of the rod /
and is regulated by means of the screw Z. When the apparatus is applied to other
than the "Howe" sewing machine it may be necessary to vary the actuating
mechanism according to requirements. The rod h carries a plate which moves
with it and prevents the said rod from rotating.
The
This plate carries a star-shaped piece m oscillating upon a fixed point n.
projections of the piece m are of unequal lengths. The longest projection placed at
the upper part is arranged to move through an angle of 45°, its stroke being limited
by the pins o against which a spring p maintains the lateral projections of this star
picce in either of its two positions.
Over these pins and the star piece slides a plate q which is jointed at rand
holds the said star and its spring so as to prevent them from assuming any other
position than those above mentioned.
The plate q carries at its back a small pins which operating alternately upon
the two inclined sides of the said largest projections of the star serves to oscillate
the said plate. This oscillatory movement is transmitted to the wheel b by means
of the plate d and the arm e, in order to move the material to the right or left
hand side so that the needle may pass once through the material and once through
the space in the slot.
At the same time the friction lever c causes the wheel b to rotate upon its
spindle in order to move the material forward and to this end the said lever is
struck at each rotation by the piece t fixed upon the rod h. During the descent of
this rod the lever c returns to its original position; and amplitude of movement
and accordingly the length of the stitch is regulated by means of the cam u. A
spring acts as a brake upon the wheel. The mode of rotation by friction of the
wheel b permits the regulation of its movement with precision.
The movement of the said wheel b which gives a greater or lesser width to the
button bole is regulated in the following manner that is to say; the plate d is
pivotted at upon the part of the box opposite that upon which the plate q
I
situated lower down is articulated and the oscillations of which have. always a
different amplitude. This plate d carries a pin the position of which can be
regulated by means of the toothed sector x and screw. This pin enters a slot ย in
the plate and passes through a similar slot of the plate d.
It will be readily understood that whatever may be the position of the pin of
the sector upon the plate & the same will always be immovable relatively to the
said plate whereas it will be able to move freely in the slot of the plate q.
Consequently according to how near the pin. x is brought to the point of
articulation of the plate the amplitude of the oscillations of the plate & which
regulates by means of the arm e the movement of the wheel b may be increased or
decreased.
... L

page_text: I have represented in Figure 6 the details of the lever c shewing the excentric
position of the pins c' between which passes the hoop c² of the wheel b.
In order to guide the needle safely in its operation and to cause it to enter
properly the space in the button hole I arrange a bent arm z around which the
said button hole is displaced as it is being sewn and which may be also regulated
by an alternate movement as above mentioned.
This apparatus also comprises a guiding bush win which passes the cord, gimp,
or other material which forms the edge of the button hole. I may alter the
relative positions of the various parts of this apparatus according to the class
of machine to which I intend applying the same or according to the various
requirements of the work.
Dnted this 1st day of January 1884
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
For the Applicant.

page_text: I HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents
Southampton Buildings, London, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare
the nature of my Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MECHANISM FOR STITCHING
BUTTON HOLES AND SIMILAR WORK CHIEFLY DESIGNED AS AN ATTACHMENT TO
A SEWING MACHINE" and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This Invention relates to attachments for sewing machines, and particularly to
that class of machines in which straight needles are employed.
The object of the said Invention is to provide apparatus for sewing button holes
and forming stitches such as whip stitches used for securing leather linings in hats,
zig-zag lock stitches and similar stitches.
Any sewing machines to which the apparatus hereinafter described is attached
may be rendered capable of sewing button holes, the said apparatus being readily
removed when not required.
This apparatus operates so as to impart to the material in which a button hole
is being made alternate transverse and forward movements, the latter being equal
to the length of the stitches required.
In order to illustrate the Invention I have shewn in the accompanying Drawing
the improvements as applied to a "Howe" sewing machine.
Figure 1 is a side elevation of the said machine provided with the improved
apparatus.
Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same.
Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 are views of parts of the said apparatus hereinafter
described, and
Figure 8 is a view of the sewing machine table with the improved needle-plate
applied thereto.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts throughout the Drawing.
The movement of the material in which the button-hole is being made (such as
leather, felt or linen or the like) is effected by means of the wheel b-Figure 5-
rotating upon its spindle a, and by means of a friction device actuated by the arm c.
This movement of the wheel b causes the material to advance a distance equal to
one stitch at each rotation of the driving shaft of the machine. In order to
produce the alternate transverse movements above mentioned the said wheel is
subjected to another movement to the right or to the left hand side, resulting from
the oscillation of the plate d, which oscillation is transmitted to the wheel b through
the arm e.
As shewn in Figures 1 and 2, the wheel b is mounted by means of its spindle a
upon the arm or wheel carrier a¹ which is likewise mounted upon the presser foot
bar of the sewing machine so as to be able to rotate upon the screw or shaft b¹.
A piece c¹ is jointed to a piece d', attached to the presser foot bar, by means of
the screw b¹, but the arin or wheel carrier a¹ is capable of oscillating freely upon
this shaft both to the right and to the left hand side, and is held in position,
when operating, by the thumb-piece e¹ which is jointed upon the piece c¹, and
which enters a slot in the arm or wheel carrier a¹ in order to hold the two pieces a¹
and c¹ together at the time they come into operation.
The oscillating plate d is mounted upon the box g, which is attached to the
head of the machine by means of two screws f, for by any other suitable means.
The said box g carries this oscillating plate and the pieces actuating the same.
rod h is caused to slide vertically in the box g by means of the arm i which
A

page_text: operates the needle bar, which arm raises the said rod h at each rotation of the
main shaft by bearing against the projection fixed upon the said rod, as shown in
Figure 3.
A spring
causes the downward motion of the rod h, the pressure of the said
spring being regulated by means of the screw Z.
When the said improved apparatus is applied to other than the "Howe" sewing
machines it will be necessary to adapt the actuating mechanism thereto.
The rod h carries a plate which prevents the said rod from rotating.
The plate carries a star piece m oscillating upon a fixed point n, and the
projections of the piece m are of unequal lengths, the longest projection placed at
the upper part being arranged to move through an angle of 45°, its stroke being
limited by the pins o against which a spring p presses one or other of the lateral
projections of this star piece, according to the position of the latter.
Over these pins and the star pieco slides a plate q which is pivotted at rand
holds the said star and its spring so as to prevent them from assuming any other
position than those above mentioned.
The plate q carries at its back a small pin s which is operated upon alternately
by the two inclined sides of the longest projection of the star. The spring p holds
the star m.in such a position that when the rod h descends the said star piece does
not act upon the pin s, and consequently not upon the plate q, but as this star
piece, after passing the pin 8, moves by reason of the spring p, slightly farther in
the same direction as that in which it was moved by the pin 8, the said star piece,
during its next upward movement, will impinge against the pins and oscillate the
plate q, when the star piece has been raised so high that one of the lateral
projections of the same strikes the pins the said star piece will, by reason of the
further upward movement of the rod h, be moved to the opposite side, to that
which it had just occupied, thus placing the said plate so that at the next upward
movement it will impinge against the pins 8 with its opposite side and thus move
the plate q also in an opposite direction.
This oscillatory movement is transmitted to the wheel b by means of the plate d
and the arm e, in order to move the material to the right or to the left hand side
so that the needle may pass once through the material and once through the hole
in the material.
At the same time the friction lever c causes the wheel b to rotate upon its
spindle in order to move the material forward. To this end an inclined plane on
the said lever is struck at each rotation of the main shaft, by the bar t fixed upon
the rod h. During the descent of this rod the lever c returns to its original
position. The movement of the wheel b, and consequently the length of the stitch,
is regulated by means of a cam u. A spring acts as a break upon the wheel b.
The rotation of the wheel b by friction regulates its movement with precision.
The lateral movements of the wheel b are regulated in the following manner,
that is to say:The plate d is pivotted at v¹ upon the part of the box y opposite
that upon which the plate q situated lower down, is pivotted. This plate d carries
a pin X', the position of which can be regulated by means of the toothed sector x
and a screw. This pin enters a slot y in the plate q and passes through a similar
slot of the plate d.
It will be readily understood that whatever may be the position of the pin of
the sector in the slot in the plate d the said pin will always be immovable
relatively to the said plate, whereas it is capable of moving freely in the slot of the
plate g. Consequently according to how near the pin X is brought to the pivot of
the plate q the amount of oscillation of the plate , which is connected by means
of the arm e with the carrier of the wheel b, may be increased or decreased.
In Figure 6 the position of the pins c¹ between which the friction band c² of the
lever c passes is shewn
In order that the needle, during its operation, shall properly enter the button
hole, I arrange a bent arms against which the said button hole is guided as it is
being sewn and which may partake of the alternating movements above mentioned.

page_text: This apparatus also comprises a guiding eye w through which passes the cord
gimp or other material which forms the edge of the button hole.
In Figure 8, I have shown a needle plate A having a needle hole E. This needle
plate is intended to cover, when in place, the feed mechanism of an ordinary
sewing machine when my attachment is applied, in order that a smooth surface
may be secured for the feed wheel 6 of the button hole apparatus. This plate has
an attaching shank which is secured to the table D, by a screw F. The covering
plates BC are the same as those in ordinary use, and when in place, are pressed
against the shank of the plate A as shown. It will be seen that with this device
the ordinary feed mechanism is prevented from acting on the fabric and from
interfering with the action of the feed-wheel b.
I may alter the relative positions of the various parts of this apparatus according
to the class of machine to which it is applied, or according to the various require-
ments of the work.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
In a sewing machine, or separate therefrom, the apparatus above described for
making button holes and characterized by the following novel features:-
First. The feed wheel to which alterate rotary and transverse movements are
imparted and the mechanism for actuating the same in order to move the material
in which a button hole is being made.
Second. The combination with the oscillating plates actuating the mechanism, of
a star piece provided with inclined planes acting upon a fixed point of the adjacent
oscillating plate.
Third. The device for guiding the button hole under the needle, and the eye
through which the gimp or other material passes, in combination with mechanism
substantially as described and for the purpose specified.
Fourth. The combination with the feed wheel b of the button-hole apparatus, of
the needle plate A secured to the table of the sewing machine, and projecting over
the ordinary feed mechanism thereof, whereby the said mechanism will not interfere
with the action of the feed wheel b, substantially as set forth.
Dated this 12th day of August 1881
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
For the Applicant.