Year: 1888

page_text: I, WOLF COHEN, a citizen of Russia, residing at 128 East Broadway, New York,
County and State of New York, United States of America, Tailor, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention relates to a new method of producing coats of the cheaper grades,
and more particularly coats for boys, though the invention may also be employed in
the manufacture of men's coats.
Ready made coats are now usually made as follows:
The several pieces of the cloth or outside of the coat are first united with the
exception of the sleeves. The several pieces of the coat lining are also united with
the exception of the sleeves. Next the face of the cloth is sewed to the face of the
lining excepting at the arm holes and the entire garment is reversed by drawing it
through one of the arm hole openings. In this way the coat is right side out and is
complete with the exception of the sleeves. These are separately made complete with
cloth and lining and are sewed to the coat. The attachment of the sleeves to the coat
is a matter of considerable difficulty. It must be done by hand and requires two baists
and one felling for each sleeve. Thus, skilled labor is required for this particular
part of the garment, and its cost is considerably increased. By my improved method
of making the garment, I dispense with all this hand work and am enabled to complete
the entire coat by machine sewing.
The invention consists in the various features of improvement more fully pointed out
in the claim.
In the accompanying drawing:
Fig. 1 is a side view of a coat reversed, made according to my improved
method.
Fig. 2 is a horizontal section through coat and sleeves and
Fig. 3 is a vertical central section through the coat.
a, represents the lining of the coat composed of several pieces, as usual, that are
united by machine sewing. b, b, are the sleeve linings also made by machine sewing.
The sleeve linings b, are sewed to the lining a, as shown in fig. 1.

page_text: The body or cloth e, of the coat is in like manner united to its sleeves d. Thus the
lining is completo, and the cloth is likewise complote.
Next the face of the cloth c, is laid upon the face of the lining, the sleeves and sleevo
linings being reversed.
The cloth c, is now sowed to lining a, by a suture e, that connects the parts a, c, at
thoir entire circumference with the exception of a small opening, proferably at the
lower end of the back of the garment.
The ends of the sleeves d, are also sewed to the ends of the sleeve linings b, by
sutures g.
The garment being thus finished by machine sewing, is now reversed by inserting
the hand in opening, grasping the cloth and drawing the coat inside out. Thus all
the parts are brought into their proper position, right side up. It only remains to
close the opening, by sewing which is an easy matter.
It will be soon that the difficulty of fitting the completed sleeves to the completed
garment, right side up, by hand sowing is avoided, and thus the garment can be made
in better form, and at less expense than by the old method.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invon-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:
1. The improved method of making conts, which consists in connecting the lining
with the sleeves inserted, to the cloth with the sleeves inserted, by a suture e, that
encircles the garment, but leaves an opening f, and then reversing the garment
through said opening, substantially as specified.
2. The improved method of making coats, which consists in connecting the face of
the lining with sleeves reversed, to the face of the cloth with sleeves reversed by a
suture that leaves an opening, and also by the sutures g, reversing the garment
through opening and closing said opening, substantially as specified.
3. The method herein describod of unking coats which consists in placing the
complete outer fabric of the coat body face to face with the complete lining therefor,
turning the sleeves of both outer body and lining inside out, uniting the outer fabric
to the lining edge to edge by a seam traversing their entire circumference with tho
exception of a small opening, and the extremities of the sleeves to the extremities of
the sleeve linings, then turning the entire garment through said opening, substantially
as specified.
Dated this 26th day of June 1888.
HERBERT J. ALLISON,
Agent for the Applicant.