Improvements in Sweaters, Jerseys, and similar Knitted Articles.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 19th May., 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sweaters, Jerseys, and similar Knitted Articles.
I, WILLIAM RALPH WALKER, Ellerslie, Leicester, Hosiery Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has reference to knitted articles of clothing such as sweaters,
jerseys and the like and has for its object certain improvements in the collar,
combining therein both elasticity and rigidity or stiffness, two features which it
is generally admitted are particularly advantageous for cycling, football, and other
athletic purposes, but which heretofore it has been considered impracticable
to combine in an adequate degree in the same collar.
For athletic purposes, as for example, cycling against a head wind, or, in
football, during half-time when players are usually in a heated condition, it is
highly desirable to protect the throat against cold, which is effected by turning
up the collar of the sweater.
But if, as is often the case, the collar is made of a highly elastic fabric such as
rib, the fabric is so flexible and limp that it will not remain in its turned up
position, but drops and exposes the throat, and if on the other hand the collar
be made of a firm and less elastic fabric, the wearer has a difficulty in getting
the collar over his head without tugging and straining which is very objection-
able.
Now the present invention is designed to obviate the two disadvantages before
named and also to obtain the requisite combination of the qualities of elasticity
and stiffness which will enable a player to get the collar of his sweater easily
passed over his head and to cause the collar to maintain itself in position around
the throat of the wearer when turned up for that purpose.
Now my invention consists in forming the collars of sweaters, jerseys, and the
like of a combination of two different kinds of fabrics embodying the qualities
of elasticity and stiffness for the purposes herein before described.
This is effected by forming the base or lower part of the collar of ordinary
rib fabric and the upper part of the collar of a stiffer or less elastic fabric such
as any of the multiple loop or tuck stitch fabrics either, plain or shogged or other
fancy stitch.
The elasticity of the rib fabric forming the base of the collar, enables a player
to easily get the sweater over his head and the stiffness of the multiple loop fabric
of the upper part of the collar imparts the required rigidity to enable it to remain
in its turned up position when so placed by the wearer.
In the manufacture of the collar, the upper part may be first knitted upon
the needles of a straight bar knitting frame the edges of the fabric being narrowed
at intervals.
Following this the second half of the collar may be knitted commencing upon
the original number of needles and inserting several narrowings as the knitting
proceeds. When the requisite number of courses have been knitted the fabric
which is in a straight length has its lower edge connected to the opening in the

page_text: upper part of the body, of the jersey and the ends of the collar fabric for about
one half of their length are connected together, the remaining part of the end
edges are kept free so as to permit the collar to turn down.
Dated this 18th day of May 1897
BOULT & WADE,
Agents for the Applicant.
improvements in Sweaters, Jerseys, and similar Knitted Articles.
I, WILLIAM RALPH WALKER, Ellerslie, Leicester, Hosiery Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention has reference to knitted articles of clothing such as sweaters,
jerseys and the like and has for its object certain improvements in the collar
combining therein both elasticity and rigidity or stiffness, two features which it
is generally admitted are particularly advantageous for cycling, football, and other
athletic purposes, but which heretofore it has been considered impracticable
to combine in an adequate degree in the same collar.
For athletic purposes, as for example, cycling against a head wind, or, in
football, during half-time when players are usually in a heated condition, it is
highly desirable to protect the throat against cold, which is effected by turning
up the collar of the sweater.
But if, as is often the case, the collar is made of a highly elastic fabric such as
rib, the fabric is so flexible and limp that it will not remain in its turned up
position, but drops and exposes the throat, and if on the other hand the collar
be made of a firm and less elastic fabric, the wearer has a difficulty in getting
the collar over his head without tugging and straining which is very objection-
able.
Now the present invention is designed to obviate the two disadvantages before
named and also to obtain the requisite combination of the qualities of elasticity
and stiffness which will enable a player to get the collar of his sweater easily
passed over his head and to cause the collar to maintain itself in position around
the throat of the wearer when turned up for the purpose.
Now my invention consists in forming the collars of sweaters, jerseys, and the
like of a combination of two different kinds of fabrics embodying the qualities
of elasticity and stiffness for the purposes herein before described.
Referring to the accompanying drawing Figure 1 represents diagrammatically
so much of a sweater or jersey as is requisite to illustrate my improved construction
of collar shown thereon in its turned up position, the dotted lines representing
the turned down position of the said collar.
Figure 2 represents a diagram of the collar per se laid out flat and before it
is attached to a sweater or jersey.
To carry out the present invention the base or lower part A of the collar is
knitted of ordinary single loop and preferably rib fabric, and the upper part B,
which can be turned up or down is knitted of a stiffer and less elastic fabric
such as any of the well known multiple loop or tuck stitch fabrics either plain
or of shogged, twill or other fancy stitch.
The collar may be made upon a straight bar knitting frame commencing with
the top edge B₁ of the upper part of the collar and inserting narrowings Bª
at intervals as required.

page_text: Upon the completion of the upper part of the collar, knitting may proceed
upon the number of needles still in action until a straight piece of ordinary ribbed
fabric as shown in Figure 2 is produced to form the base A of the collar.
The latter may be narrowed if desired, but generally it will be found that the
base knitted upon the same number of needles throughout is sufficient for the
purpose.
The lower edge A' of the base of the collar is linked or united to and around
the edge of the usual neck opening in the upper part of the body C of the jersey
or sweater and the two ends A2 A3 of the base of the collar are connected together.
The ends B3 B are left free and unconnected as in Figure 1 to permit the collar
to be turned up and down when fixed in position on the garment.
The elasticity of the rib fabric forming the base of the collar, enables a player
to easily get the sweater over his head and the stiffness of the multiple loop fabric
of the upper part of the collar imparts the required rigidity to enable it to remain
in its turned up position when so placed by the wearer.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is;-
1. A collar for a sweater, jersey or the like consisting of two different kinds of
knitted fabric substantially as and for the purpose described.
2. A sweater, jersey or the like provided with a collar the base and upper part
of which are formed of rib and multiple loop fabric respectively substantially
as and for the purpose described.
3. In a sweater, jersey or the like the combination of a knitted collar constructed
and arranged substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawing.
Dated this 7th day of February 1900
Witness:
E. N. LEWIS,
Berridge Street Chambers, Leicester.
WILLIAM RALPH WALKER.
Boult & Wade,
Agents for the Annalicant