Improvements in Mechanism for Stamping or Cutting out Button Hole Flies.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 19th June, 1888
Specification Accepted, 17th Aug., 1888
Improvements in Mechanism for Stamping or Cutting out Button
Hole Flies.
We, GEORGE VALIANT, of the Post Office Toronto, in the County of York, in the
Province of Ontario, Canada, and CHRISTIAN DANCEL, of 239 Center Street, New
York City, in the County and State of New York, United States of America,
Gentlemen, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
Referring to the Drawings:
Figure 1, shows a plan view of our improved cutting and button-holing mechanism.
Figure 2, an enlarged section of the same, on line, x, of figure 1.
Figure 3, a detail bottom plan view of one of the button-hole cutters.
Figure 4, a detail plan view of the slide for carrying a button-hole cutter, with
such cutter removed, and
Figure 5, a portion of a fly as cut out by our mechanism.
Letters of like name and kind refer to like parts in each of the figures.
The object of our invention is to provide improved mechanism for stamping or
cutting out button hole flies, and to this end
Our invention consists in the mechanism and in the construction, arrangement and
combination of the parts thereof, as hereinafter specified.
By our mechanism or apparatus as hereinafter set forth and shown in the drawings,
a fly of any desired size shape and curvature, provided with the desired button-holes
and scallops can be stamped or cut out at one operation.
As button-holes for boots and shoes vary greatly both in size, curvature and shape
and in the dimensions and number of the scallops, it would not be commercially
practicable to have a die made for each size and shape of fly desired.
Our cutting mechanism is easily adjustable, so that it can be arranged to cut out
almost any desired style or form of fly with its proper or suitable button-holes and
scallops.
In the accompanying drawings, there is shown a portion only of the entire
mechanism needed for cutting out and finishing a whole fly.
From this portion shown the construction and arrangement of the whole mechanism

page_text: can be clearly understood, as the rest of said mechanism not shown, is made up of
duplicates and continuations of the devices appearing in the drawings.
A, designates the table or support for receiving and holding the various parts of
the mechanism. Resting upon this table is the flexible knife, B, for cutting out the
attaching edge of the fly. The desired curvature is given to this knife, and it is held
as curved by the blocks or slides, C, C, resting and held in place on the table, as set
forth hereinafter.
Each of these blocks is at one end, fastened to the outer side of the knife, and
has its outer end slit or slotted, as shown, on a horizontal plane.
The slots, c, c, thus made in the sliding pieces or blocks, receive the guide strips, D,
for holding the pieces, as adjusted relatively to each other.
A set screw, c², for each piece or block, C, serves to draw the portions of the block
above and below the strip, D, together, so as to grip or clamp the latter.
To give the upper portion or arm of the block a slight spring to facilitate the
clamping and unclamping of the guide strips, the inner end of slot, c, is cut out or
enlarged, as shown in figure 2.
At, C, is shown a single slide-block or piece not clamped to guide, D. It is near
the end of the flexible knife, where the latter has to be given a sharp curvature in
order to cut out the end portion of the attaching edge of the fly properly, and is made
on the face of its end towards the knife concave, as shown at, c².
A screw, c³, passing through the knife and tapped into the concave end of the
block serves to draw the portion of the knife between the ends or sides of the
concavity in the block, inward so as to cause the knife at that point to correspond
in curvature, as nearly as desired, with the curvature of said concavity of the
block end.
A clamp, E, having the arm or portion, e, overlapping the outer portion of the
block, C¹, serves to clamp the latter down in place upon table, A, and hold it as
adjusted.
A set screw passing through the body of clamp, E, and tapped into the table,
serves to force and hold the clamp down in engagement with the block.
Similar clamps, with set screws are, as shown, provided for clamping and holding
the other slide pieces or blocks, C, C, in place as adjusted on the table.
A separate slide piece or block, like block, C, and operating in the same way, can
be provided at or near the other end of the knife, B, not shown in the drawings, if
a sharp curvature of the knife at that point be desired, in cutting out the attaching
edge of the fly.
In adjusting or setting the flexible knife for use in cutting out a strip, the set
screws, c¹, c, are loosened, so as to unclamp the guide, D, and the blocks or slide
pieces, C, C, are so adjusted with reference to each other, as to give the desired
curvature to the body or main portion of the knife.
Said blocks are then fastened as adjusted with relation to each other, by screwing
in screws, e¹, c¹, again, so as to clamp the slide pieces securely to the guide strips.
The curvature of the knife at and near its end is adjusted by screwing in or
loosening the screw, c³, on block, C¹, as set forth hereinbefore.
The curvature of the knife, having been adjusted as desired, the knife is secured in
place on the table by the clamps, E, engaging blocks, C, C, and, C³, and clamping
them against the table surface.
For cutting out the outer edge of the strip with its curves and scallops, we provide
a series of adjustable cutters, each one provided with an edge adapted to cut a
portion of the curve of the outer fly edge or one of the scallops.
Each of the scallop cutting devices consists of a slide or block, F, having the
cutting edge, F, of the proper curvature and shape to cut one scallop.
These slides or blocks are held in place on the table, A, by the clamps, G, G,
provided with the clamping screws, 9, 9:
Said clamps operate to hold the slides, F, F, in the same way as the clamps, E,
engage and hold the flexible knife and adjusting blocks, C, C.
For cutting the outer edge of the fly at and near its end there is provided a slide

page_text: or block, F, having the cutting edge corresponding in curvature with the end
portion of the outer edge of the desired fly.
A clamp, G, with screw, g, is also provided to hold this block, as adjusted on the
table.
With the separate cutter carrying slides and the clamps as described above, the
slides can obviously be adjusted to suit any width and configuration of the fly to be
cut and fastened as adjusted for the fly cutting.
In order to cut out the series of button holes at the same time that the fly is cut
out, and the scallops made, there is provided a series of slides, H, H, each provided
with a knife or cutter, H', adapted to cut a button-hole of the desired shape.
Each of said slides, H, H, has a portion extending into and guided in a longitudinal
groove,, in the under side of one of the scallop cutter slides, F, F.
The slides, H, H, are thus made longitudinally adjustable with reference to
slides, F, F, to bring the button-hole cutters, H', H³, nearer to or further from the
curved scallop edges, f, f, so as to cut the button-holes nearer to or further from the
outer edges of the scallops as desired.
To fasten the button-hole cutter slides as adjusted with reference to the cutter
slides or pieces, each of the former slides is provided with a set screw, h, extending up
through a slot, ', in the respective scallop cutter slides.
As where the curvature of a button-hole fly is changed, it is necessary to change
the angle of the button-holes somewhat, with reference to the scalloped or outer edge
of the fly, the button-hole cutters are pivotally attached to their slides, H, H.
Each of the cutters, H', H¹, consists of a block having on its upper side a cutting
edge, so shaped and arranged as to cut out the entire button-hole with the enlargement.
or rounded opening, and the slit or narrow part.
To permit the passage of the piece cut out in making the enlargement of the button-
hole, an opening, ³, extends down through the cutter block. Such opening is,
in order to insure its ready clearance, made conical or flaring downward, as shown.
Through each slide, H, there is also an opening to form a continuation of the one
in the cutter block.
In the slide concentric with the clearance openings described, is a round recess or
depression, h, adapted to receive the boss, 75, on the lower side of the cutter block
about which the cutter, H', can be rotated or swung with reference to the slide, H,
while the openings in the block and slide remain in line.
Such turning or swinging of the cutter will obviously change the angle of
the button-hole with reference to the slide, H, and the scallop cutter, H'.
In order to provide for fixing the cutter at any adjustment on its pivotal connection
with the slide, H, the cutter block is provided with the slot, h, and the slide, H, with
the set screw, h', engaging the slot.
The operation of the mechanism is briefly as follows:
The flexible knife is adjusted on the table to the desired curvature of the attaching
edge of the fly by adjustment of the slides, C, C, as hereinbefore described, and is
fastened in place on the table, A, by the clamps, E, E, engaging said slides and
clamping them against the table as adjusted.
The slide for cutting the curved outer edge of the fly at its lower end, and. the
scallop cutter.slides, are then adjusted separately on the table according to the desired
width or shape of the fly and fastened by the clamps, G, G.
The button-hole cutters can be adjusted in and out, away from or nearer to the
scallop cutters by sliding the slides carrying them with reference to the scallop
cutter pieces or slides, and fixing them as adjusted, by means of set screws, h, h.
If it is desired to change the angle of the button-hole cutters with reference to the
scallop cutters, the set screws, h', ', are loosened, the cutter blocks swung on their
pivotal connections with the slides, H, H', and the screws tightened up again.
The mechanism or apparatus made adjustable as described can obviously be adapted
readily and easily to cut a fly of any desired size, shape or curvature, with button-holes
of any number and at any desired inclination or direction with reference to the outer
edge of the fly.

page_text: Where flies for men's boots or shoes are to be cut out, the cutting edges or
slides, F, F, instead of being curved to cut scallops, as shown and described herein
before, can be made straight or of any desired shape or form to cut the required outer
edge of the fly.
The apparatus or mechanism, as described, is to be used in a press of any ordinary
construction adapted to press the leather or other fabric used for the fly, against the
cutting devices with sufficient pressure to insure such devices cutting through the
same.
The table or plate supporting and holding the various cutters, as described, can be
itself a movable one, or the support for the fabric to be cut can be made movable and
be moved toward such table to carry the fabric against the cutters.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:
1. In combination with a flexible knife, a series of independently adjustable blocks
connected with the knife, whereby the curvature or direction of the knife can be adjusted,
substantially as and for the purpose shown.
2. In combination with the flexible knife and a support therefor, a series of indepen-
dently adjustable pieces on the support connected with the knife, and means for
holding the pieces as adjusted on the support, substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
3. In combination with the flexible knife and a support therefor, the adjustable
slides attached to the knife and clamps for clamping the slides against the knife
support, substantially as and for the purpose described.
4. In combination with the flexible knife, the series of blocks or slides attached to
the knife, a guide and means for clamping the slides to such guide, substantially as and
for the purpose specified.
5. In combination with the flexible knife and the series of blocks or pieces attached
to the knife, and forked or slotted, the guide embraced within the forks or slots in the
blocks, and the set screws for drawing the arms of the forks together to clamp the guide
between them substantially as and for the purpose shown.
6. In combination with the flexible knife, the series of blocks or pieces, each attached
at one end to the knife, and at the other end slit or slotted, the guide strip passing
through the slots in the blocks, and the set screws for drawing together the parts of
the blocks or pieces on opposite sides of the slot so as to clamp the blocks to the strip,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
7. In combination with the flexible knife, the series of slides attached to the knife,
a supporting table the guide strips to which the slides are adjustably attached, and the
clamps adapted to engage the slides and clamp them to the table, substantially as´ and
for the purpose described.
8. In combination with the flexible knife, a block having a concave face toward the
knife, and a screw passing through the knife and into the block, substantially as and
for the purpose specified.
9. In combination with the flexible knife, and a support therefor, the slide provided
with a concave face towards the knife, a screw passing through the knife, and into the
slide between the extremes of the concave face, and a clamp to secure the slide to the
support, substantially as and for the purpose shown.
10. In an apparatus for cutting out flies for boots and shoes, in combination with a
suitable support, a series of adjustable cutters adapted together to cut out the outer
edge of the fly, and the series of button-hole cutters made adjustable to and from the
edge cutters, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
11. In combination with the series of adjustable cutters adapted together to cut out
the outer edge of a fly for boots or shoes, the series of button-hole cutters made
adjustable to and from the edge cutters, and also as to their angles with reference to
such cutters, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
12. In combination with the series of movable pieces having the scallop cutting edges,

page_text: the slides made adjustable with reference to the scallop cutters, and the button-hole
cutters on such slides, substantially as and for the purpose described.
13. In combination with the series of pieces, each provided with a scallop cutting
edge and having a longitudinal groove, the slides fitting and guided in these grooves,
the button-hole cutters on the slides, and means for fastening the slides at any desired
adjustment in the grooves, substantially as and for the purpose shown.
14. In combination with the slides for the button-hole cutters, the cutters pivotally
attached to the slides so as to be capable of being turned thereon, substantially as and
for the purpose set forth.
15. In combination with the slide or piece for carrying a button-hole cutter, the
cutter pivoted thereon and means for fixing the cutter at any point to which it may
be swung on its pivotal connection with the supporting piece, substantially as and for
the purpose described.
16. In an apparatus for cutting out flies for boots and shoes, a flexible knife for cutting
the inner or attaching edge of the fly, the series of adjustable pieces carrying cutters
to cut the outer edge of the fly, and adjustable button-hole cutters, all in combination
with each other and with a suitable support, substantially as and for the purpose
specified
Dated this 19th day of June 1888.
GEORGE VALIANT,
CHRISTIAN DANCEL.
By Jensen & Son,
77, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,
Patent Agents.