IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FESTOONED EDGING OR TRIMMING
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FESTOONED EDGING OR
TRIMMING." A Communication from abroad by Madame Nathalie de
Saumery, of Orleans, France.
Sealed the 16th January 1874, and dated the 24th November 1873.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alexander Melville
Clark at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 24th November 1873.
I, ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF
FESTOONED EDGING OR TRIMMING," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to improvements upon the subject matter of
Letters Patent granted to William Clark, dated May 24th, 1864,
No. 1294, for improvements in apparatus for the manufacture of
festooned edging or trimming (a communication from Henri François
Timothée Mégraud, of Paris).

page_text: .
The present Invention relates, firstly, to the stamping machine first
described in the Specification of the said Letters Patent. In this machine
the stamping or cutting out of the strip of gummed fabric previous to
covering the same with satin stitch is performed by means of a stamp or
cutter which rises and falls at intervals as the gummed strip passes
beneath, and the principal feature of this part of the present Invention
consists in the substitution of a revolving knife or cutter for the
reciprocating stamp employed in the former apparatus by which
means the action is rendered continuous and a great saving of time is
effected.
.
The revolving knife or cutter is mounted in a frame which is capable
of sliding vertically in grooves in the side frames of the machine and is
pressed into contact with a bed roller by means of a fly wheel and screw,
a spring being interposed for the purpose of giving a certain amount of
elasticity. The bed roller is mounted on the main spindle or shaft of
the machine (which is either driven by power or turned by hand), and
is provided with a circumferential groove into which tin is run to
prevent the edge of the knife from rapidly becoming dull in cutting.
The strip of gummed material to be cut is wound upon a drum and the
end drawn through a guide, which at the same time regulates the
pressure or tension and guides it between the cutter and the bed roller.
The strip thus cut to the desired form then passes through a second
guide and is wound on to a bobbin or roller mounted on a spindle driven
by a band from the main shaft of the machine.
'
The knives or cutters are made with plain, undulating, or indented
edges according to the pattern to be cut, and an infinite variety of forms
of knives being provided one is substituted for the other at will according
to the work to be produced. The gummed strips thus cut (whether
straight or indented) are then ready to be passed through the satin stitch
or embroidering machine.
:
The Invention relates, secondly, to improvements in the embrodering
machinery, and consists more particularly in dispensing with the shuttles
and the mechanism for operating the same, whereby the machine is
much simplified and adapted to make embroidery differing from that
produced by the machines described in the before-mentioned Letters
Patent, inasmuch as the thread with which the strip or groundwork is
covered is merely wound thereon without any interweaving of the threads
at the edges of said strip.

page_text: The machine consists of a rotating disc carrying the arms by which
the thread is wound upon the the strip or foundation, the said disc being
carried on a tubular spindle or sleeve mounted in a suitable bearing in
standards supported on the main frame of the machine.
The strip
or foundation is drawn through a tube fixed in the said standards and
passed through the sleeve or hollow spindle of the disc.
Another tube mounted at the other end of the machine froms a
continuation of the first with an interval between them, at which the
threads from the rotating arms are wound on the strip or foundation.
The said arms are each furnished with a nipper adjustable by a wing nut
and a spring for regulating the supply and taking up the slack of the
thread. The disc receives motion from a longitudinal shaft driven by
gearing from the main shaft of the machine, the mechanism for feeding
strip of material being the same as described in the Specification before
referred to.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Alexander Melville Clark in the Great Seal Patent.
Office on the 23rd May 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALEXANDER
MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of November, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the thirty-
seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Alexander Melville Clark, Her special
licence that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Alexander Melville
Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter.
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,.
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain.
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for.
"IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FESTOONED EDGING OR
TRIMMING," a communication to me from abroad by Madame .Nathalic,

page_text: de Saumery, of Orleans, France, upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, my executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the two accompanying
Sheets of Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that
is to say) :-
This Invention relates to improvements upon the subject matter of
Letters Patent granted to William Clark, dated May 24th 1864,
No. 1294, for "Improvements in Apparatus for the Manufacture of
Festooned Edging or Trimming," (a communication from Henri
Francois Timothée Mégraud, of Paris.
The present Invention relates, firstly, to the stamping machine first
described in the Specification of the said Letters Patent. In this
machine the stamping or cutting out of the strip of gummed fabric
previously to covering the same with satin stitch is performed by means
of a stamp or cutter which rises and falls at intervals as the gummed
strip passes beneath, and the principal feature of this part of the present 2
Invention consists in the substitution of a revolving knife or cutter in
combination with a bed roller for the reciprocating stamp employed in
the former apparatus by which means the action is rendered continuous
and a great saving of time is effected.
The Invention relates, secondly, to improvements in the embroidering a
machinery, and consists more particularly in dispensing with the shuttles,
together with their actuating mechanism, whereby the machine is much
simplified and adapted to make embroidery differing from that produced
by the machines described in the before-mentioned Specification,
inasmuch as the thread with which the strip or groundwork is covered
- is merely wound thereon without any interweaving of the threads at the
edge of the strip..

page_text: In order that the Invention may be more readily understood, I have
illustrated it in the accompanying Drawings, in which Figure 1
represents a side elevation, and Figure 2 an end elevation of the machine
for cutting the strips of gummed fabric to form the foundation of the
edging or trimming; Figure 3 shows edge and front views of a guide
for the strip to be cut; Figure 4 shows another guide for the same
purpose.
Figure 5 shows face and edge views of circular knives or cutters for
producing different patterns.
"
a is the revolving knife or cutter mounted in a movable frame 6 fitted
to slide in vertical guides in two uprights c, c, which rise from the
bed X of the machine. The cutter is pressed into contact with a bed
roller d by means of a hand wheel and screw e, a spring f being
interposed to produce a yielding pressure. This bed roller d is provided
with a circumferential groove into which tin is run to prevent the edge
of the knife rapidly becoming dull. The surface of the tin can be
renewed at any time by turning it against a chisel, and when too much
worn it is easily replaced by a fresh ring of tin. The bed roller d is
carried on a shaft supported in bearings 9, 9, which shaft may either
be driven by hand or power through winch handle h or pulleys i.
The strip of material to be cut is wound upon a reel or drum which is
then placed upon a horizontal pin k carried on a suitable support.
From this drum the material is unwound and the end drawn through a
guide (Figure 3) fixed in front of the cutter, which guide at same time
serves to regulate the tension and guides the strip between the cutter a
and the bed roller d. The material thus cut into two strips of the
desired form then passes through a second guide m Figure 4, and the
strips are wound on to separate bobbins or rollers fixed on spindles n
and o mounted in suitable supports, and which spindles are provided
with band pulleys and are driven by bands from the shaft fas shown;
P, guide roller.
The knives or cutters Figure 5 are made with plain undulating or
indented edges according to the pattern to be cut, and an infinite variety
of forms of knives being provided one is substituted for the other at will
according to the work to be produced. The gummed strips thus cut
(whether straight or indented) are then ready to be covered with satin
stitch by the machine forming the subject of the second part of this

page_text: Invention to be protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent is,―
1st. The improved machine for cutting or forming the foundation of
the embroidery or trimming constructed, arranged, and operating
substantially as herein described and represented in the Drawings.
annexed.
2nd. The improved machine, substantially as herein shown and de-
scribed for covering the strip or foundation by merely winding threads
thereon without any interweaving of the threads at the edge of the strip,
thereby dispensing with the shuttles and other mechanism as explained.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-third day of May,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and,
seventy-four.