Improvements in Lappet Looms.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Sept., 1896-Accepted, 18th Sept., 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Lappet Looms.
I JEAN CLAUDE BLANCHARD of 133 Rue Pierre Corneille, Lyons, France, Manu-
facturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention relates to lappet looms and more particularly to an improved
system of loom lay for embroidering and festooning and making needle stitches in
different kinds of designs either on plain or fancy figured fabric during the weaving
of the fabric.
In the annexed drawings Fig. 1 is a vertical front elevation showing the improved
lay applied to a power loom. Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section of the cylinder
carrying chain links serving to reproduce the curvatures required by the designs
which are to be obtained. Fig. 3 is a transverse section of a cylinder with endless
chain links. Fig. 4 is a side view of a link. Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the
lay and part of the loom on line A-B of Fig. 1 looking to the left. Fig. 6 is a
transverse section on line E-F Fig. 1, looking to the right. Fig. 7 is a transverse
section on line C-D Fig. 1, looking to the right showing an alternative driving
arrangement by connecting rod.
The letters of reference indicate the sa ne parts in the different Figures.
A is the lay resembling an ordinary lay but with the addition of slides a and a
shuttle guide b provided with pointed needles. Upon one of the lay swords 8,
Fig. 8, is a guide g through which passes a rod t carrying two pawls and a
regulating sleeve d. This rod carries on its lower end an antifriction roller moving
on an inclined plane on the frame of the loom so as to operate the rod t as and when
the lay moves.
To drive by means of the connecting rod, the arrangement indicated in Fig. 7 is
used, that is to say, the rod t is replaced by a rod t¹ connected to the rod b' of
the lay.
The cross-bar c holds the reed p in its rearward position in order that it may not
interfere with the movement of the shuttle guide b, which is then elevated by the
movement of the slides a, a, upon the inclined planes i for the passage of the
shnttle. When the rollers of the slides a are on the lower ends of the inclined
planes i, i, the needles are lowered in order to let the fabric pass.
There is carried by the framing and in the same support e holding the inclined
plane i, another inclined plane connected at its other end to the fabric supporting
bar f. The embroidering comb j provided with rollers follows the inclinations of
the plane i' and when in its lowest position its threads are lowered so far that they
are locked by the weft when the shuttle passes. The most elevated part of plane 21
raises the comb j so as to remove the embroidery needles from the fabric and
prevent them touching the fabric.
B is a horizontal bar carrying clamped on it the guides C of the embroidering
attachment.
D are brackets carrying the bar B and fixed on the lay cap or on the upper ends
of the lay swords; j is the embroidering comb provided with needles having at
their lower ends eyes through which pass the threads intended for the einbroidery

page_text: and coming from the roller V. p is the reed, the upper end of which is set
backward for about 10 mm. in order to allow space for the embroidery needles to
move down and place their threads between the shuttle guide and the reed, as
in Fig. 5.
Fis a rod, the longitudinal movement of which causes, from time to time, the
comb to be hooked up out of action by two hooks q which this rod operates by
means of inclinod planes n, n, (Fig. 1). This longitudinal movement of the rod
is given by either the cam Y or the chain X through the rod G.
In the drawing, the chain X is provided on the side with a projection of (Fig. 1)
to operate against a dog o on the end of rod G. Where no chain is ured the same
action could be given by an equidistant cam surface on the back of cain Y.
By this movement the embroidery comb when raised by the inclined plano il can
be held up out of action by the hooks q during one or more shoots of the weft so
that any desired length of fabric may be woven before the embroidery thread is
again locked into the fabric upon the release of the comb from the hooks q.
l
The rod t moves the dogs (Figs. 6 and 7) co-operating with the teeth a, a, which
are adapted for giving two different speeds, for instance, one four times as fast as
the other. On tho bar B is a sliding sloove B" with a finger adapted to be
moved by a dog on the pattern-chain X (or it could be on the cam Y) whenever it
is required to alter the speed of the toothed wheel % to the slower motion, the
movement of the sleeve B° causes by a lug thereon or otherwise in any suitable
manner the faster driving dog to be lifted temporarily out of gear, thus leaving the
driving for the time to the other and slower motion.
These dogs operate on teeth Z, Z, on a drum (Fig. 2) the shaft of which carries
the cam Y and the drum of the chain X. The cam Y is of suitable form according
to the pattern to be embroidered and it is intended to give corresponding
longitudinal movements to the bar H the end of which carries the arm I of the
embroidery comb j, thus giving to the latter corresponding longitudinal movements.
A counter spring M keeps the roller H on rod H up against the edge of cam Y.
This cam is only used for small patterns; for larger patterns the drum is used with
a pattern-chain X in the groove of which a roller H engages. Either of the
rollers H1, H2, may be removed while the other is required for action, or either the
cam Y or pattern chain X may be removed when not required. The pattern-
chain X is only used for designs with long repeats and is composed of links or
blocks strung together on a caoutchouc or leather band v, passed through an
undercut recess or notch in each link (see Fig. 2). The links have recesses to
engage teeth on the edges of the periphery of the drum so that the movement of
each block of the chain is assured and also its accurate guidance over the drum.
The blocks are so chosen and strung on the band v that the sinuous course made
by the recesses in the outer faces of the blocks gives the pattern desired.
It will be obvious that if the embroidery comb is moved longitudinally back and
forth for each weft shoot and is not upheld by hooks q, the embroidery thread will
lie upon the surface of tho fabric in a zigzag course, but so compressed as to have
a solid or continuous appearance along the fabric. If however the comb is held
out of action as aforesaid by hooks q during one or more weft shoots the zigzag
course of embroidery thread will be more or less open or extended, and have a
corresponding detached effect, according as more or fewer weft shoots have been
made in the intervals between the times of release of the comb.
O is a framing fixed on the crown of the lcom; P is a ratchet-wheel placed upon
the shaft of the roller V carrying the embroidering ends; Q is a rod moved by an
eccentric Q producing a two and fro movement and carrying a dog Q operating
upon the ratchet-wheel P; R are supports for the roller and the stretcher rod S.
S is a rod carrying two springe reach having at the end an eye through which
passes a wooden rod u keeping the tension of the threads coming from the roller V.
This rod S carries also a brake arm U bearing on the shaft of the roller V in
order to prevent it turning too freely of itself (Fig. 1). Uis a spring for applying
the requisito brake pressure to the arm U.

page_text: T is a string connecting the dog Q12 with the stretcher u or one of its springs 1,
allowing the dog to engage the ratchet-wheel P only after a certain increase of
tension on the threads by which the spring r has been deflected sufficiently to allow
the dog Q12 to fall into engagement with the ratchet-wheel P.
Operation: The embroidery ends carried by the roller V pass behind the wooden
rod u over the reed p through the holes of the needles of comb j and are locked in
by the weft left by the shuttle, according to the design operated by the cam Y or
chain X. This design or arrangement of the threads is obtained by means of the
rod H carrying a roller operated by the curvatures produced by the cam or chain
links transferring this movement to the comb j by tlie arm I.
In order to obtain detached effects one uses also the rod G provided with a small
roller O against which abuts the contact 01. The said rod H is hooked to the
rod F provided with inclined planes n which displaces the hooks q so that they
engage the comb j when it is raised, and theu hold it out of action until released.
In order to obtain without any difficulty a regular tension of the threads coming
from the roller V, the eccentric Q10 upon the lower shaft provided with a rod Q
carries the dog Q12 operating upon the ratchet-wheel P fixed with the roller V.
This dog Q operates only when the threads are too tightly stretched, since the
spiral spring r is connected to the dog by means of the string T, and only permits
the dog to engage when the spring R is sufficiently deflected.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is;-
1. In a lappet loom, a comb carrying pierced needles in which are arranged the
embroidering threads which are locked by the weft in weaving, the said comb being
placed in bands or brackets provided with means for disengagement and operated
by means of inclined planes upon which it rises and descends in the movement
of the lay, which by its connecting rod or otherwise operates dogs which turn a
cylinder provided with cams for small designs and cylinder or link chain for
large designs.
2. In the said device one of the dogs operating upon a wheel with a certain
number of teeth and the other upon a wheel having four times more teeth which
serves to diminish in a design tho number of links, or to produce larger designs by
cam, said designs having larger or smaller sinuosities.
Dated this 19th day of September 1896
HERBERT HADDAN & Co.,
18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London, W.C., Agents to tho Applicant.