Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Feb., 1887.
Complete Left, 25th May, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 28th June, 1887.
I, CHARLES EVANS BIRD, of 111 Overstone Road, Northampton, in the County of
Northampton, Sewer to the boot and shoe trade, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to boots and shoes of that class provided with a layer of cork,
felt or other similar material between the inner and outer soles and known as cork-
soled boots and shoes.
The chief objects of this invention are to manufacture such boots and shoes more
expeditiously than heretofore and at the same time to improve their finish, and to these
ends it comprises the improvements hereinafter described.
In carrying my said invention into practice I construct the welt as follows, that is
to say; The strip of leather which forins the welt or runner is split horizontally for
about half its width, and then vertically so that a rectangular strip of leather is
removed from the upper and outer edge. The upper surface of the welt or runner is
then partly at one level and partly at another.
The welt is attached to the upper, and the sole to the welt in the ordinary manner,
the stitching in the latter case being through the lower surface of the welt. The
vertical edge between the upper and the lower surface of the welt forms a bead similar
in appearance to the welt, runner, or middle sole herein before referred to. This bead
can be made round or square as desired.
In making boots and shoes with my improved welt or runner, the cork or other
material is placed within the welt or runner and between the inner and outer soles.
I sometimes make the welt or runner of such a width that the upper portion of the
same projects beyond the upper part of the boot or shoe sufficiently far to receive a
row of stitches, for securing a middle sole (the stitches for the outer sole being on the
lower surface) or for an additional row of stitches to go through the outer sole.
Instead of making the welt of single strips as herein before described it can be made
in two pieces one of which is narrower than the other and adapted to lie upon the
broader part.

page_text: In applying this double welt I can attach the narrow strip separately by means of
stitches passing through the same and through the upper and inner sole. I then attach
the broader part of the welt with a second series of stitches which pass through the
said broader part and through the narrow slip previously secured to the upper and the
inner sole. The welt is thus attached to the upper by two rows of stitches. If
desired, however, 1 can dispense with the second row of stitches, and secure both parts
of the welt by a single row of stitches which also pass through the upper and the
inner sole.
In using this double welt. I can make the narrow strip somewhat shorter than the
broader portion so that it does not extend along the waist of the boot or shoe. With
this arrangement the boot or shoe is more flexible at this part than would otherwise be
the case.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: I, CHARLES EVANS BIRD, of 111 Overston Road, Northampton, in the County of
Northampton Sewer to the boot and shoe trade do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to boots and shoes of that class provided with layers of cork,
felt or other similar material between the inner and outer soles and known as cork-
soled boots and shoes.
a
Boots and shoes of this class have heretofore been frequently constructed as follows,
that is to say: After the upper of each boot or shoe has been lasted to the inner sole,
strip of leather is secured around the same, which strip is subsequently turned over
the edges of the layer of cork or other material previous to the application of the welt ;
so that when the welt is finally applied this turned over strip has the appearance of a
bead around the boot above the welt.
This operation of turning and securing the said strip around the cork sole occupies
a considerable time and thereby adds to the cost of a boot or shoe.
The chief objects of my invention are to produce boots and shoes which, as regards
the bead, have the same appearance as those n'anufactured in the manner herein before
described, and at the same time to reduce their cost and improve their finish; and to
these ends it comprises the improvements hereinafter described.
In the accompanying drawing
Figure 1 is a vertical transverse section of a boot constructed according to my
invention; and
Figure 2 is a similar view illustrating a modification of my said invention.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in both Figures.
a is the upper, bis the welt, c is the inner-sole, d is the outer sole, and e is the
filling of cork or other material.
According to my said invention the strip of leather which forms the welt or runner
is split horizontally for a portion of its width, and then vertically, so that a rectangular
groove or channel is formed in the outer edge of the said welt, as shown in Figure 1*.
The welt is then of different thicknesses at its inner and outer portions.
The welt is attached to the upper and the inner sole in the ordinary manner, for
instance by the stitches 9: the inner sole being channelled at h to receive the edge of
the welt, and at i to receive the stitches, which latter pass through the thick part of
the welt, the upper and the inner sole. The outer sole is attached to the welt by the
stitches, the latter passing through the thin portion of the welt.
The vertical edge between the upper and the lower surface of the welt forms a
bead, similar in appearance to that hereinbefore referred to. This bead can be finished
round or square, as desired.

page_text: In making boots or shoes with my improved welt or runner, the cork or other
filling materiale is placed within the welt or runner and between the inner and
outer soles, as shown in the drawing.
I sometimes make the welt or runner to project beyond the upper part of the boot
or shoe (as shown in Figure 2) sufficiently far to allow a row of stitches m to be
passed through the thick part of the welt for securing a middle sole n. The stitches m
can also be employed when a middle solo is not used as an additional security for
the outer sole.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
:-
In a boot or shoe the employment of a welt formed with a groove or channel,
substantially as hereinbefore described for the purpose specified.
Dated this 24th day of May 1887.
CHARLES EVANS BIRD.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.