IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS."
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Barnes, of Chesham, in the County of
Buckingham, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
BOOTS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Barnes at the
Office of the Commissioners of Fatents on the 18th September 1880.
EDWARD BARNES, of Chesham, in the County of Buckingham.
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS,"
"IMPROVEMENTS
My Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots, and consists
in making the same in such a manner that they will enclose the leg of the wearer
to a considerable height without being inconveniently tight and rigid at the upper
part.
That class of boots, the upper part of which is made to extend higher than in
ordinary boots, are much worn, and are found to be very advantageous in many
cases, particularly for those persons who take much exercise; but as heretofore
mude the part of such boots which extends upward and encloses the leg above the
height of an ordinary boot is always inconveniently tight and rigid when fastened
closely, and if not so fastened presents a slovenly and untidy appearance. This
tightness is particularly inconvenient after a boot has been worn for some little
time during walking, skating, or other exercise, as the leg of the wearer swells, and
the leather then presses very tightly thereon.
My Invention onables me to provide a high-legged boot which does not possess
the disadvantage above mentioned, but is perfectly flexible and yielding at the
upper part thereof, and is exceedingly comfortable to the wearer.
In carrying the said Invention into practice, if the boot is one which is designed
to be fastened by a lace, I make the boot with the ordinary lace-holes, extending
as far or about as far as the height of an ordinary boot, and above this height
the leather is so cut as to come around the front of the leg in the form of a flap,
that is to say, the leather extending from the rear at the top and along the inner
side terminates in a flap at the front of the boot above the Inced part; this flap is
arranged to be fastened and unfastened by means of buttons or studs upon another
flap on the outer side of the boot, the first nained flap being provided with button
holes for the purpose. The leather extending rearward from both flaps meets

page_text: centrally at the back, and is sewn together in the usual manner.
At the upper
part of this high portion or leglet of the boot, and on the side opposite to that on
which the two flaps are to be buttoned together, I insert longitudinally a piece of
elastic web, the leather being suitably cut to receive the same. This elastic web
may be about 2 inches in length, and an inch wide at its upper part, preferably
tapering in a downward direction, but the dimensions and form may vary to suit
the kind or class of bool to which my Invention is applied. The flap being
unbuttoned and the lace loosened the foot may be readily inserted, and then the
lace may be fastened tightly and neatly, and the flaps may be buttoned together so
that the whole upper part or leglot will fit evenly and closely to the leg. The 1
sinal piece of elastic on one side, as above mentioned, provides sufficient elasticity
to prevent that lightness and rigidity which is a defect in the high-legged boots
as heretofore made. The second flap, that is to say, the one to which the buttons
or studs are secured, may, if preferred, be sewn down along its lower edge instead
of being made to open.
In adapting my improvements to high legged boots of that class which are
designed to be fastened and unfastened by means of buttons, I provide buttons and
button-holes-in-the-ordinary manner, completely to the top of the boot and in the
usual position, and to avoid the rigidity-which-exists in the upper parts of such
_boots when made to extend far up the leg, I let in a small piece-of-elastic-web_on
both sides at the top-of-the-leg-portion of the boot, as herein before described with
respect-to-one-side of a lacing boot.
I may also adapt my Invention-to-boots-provided with the ordinary side-elastic
webs in place of buttons or laces. In this case the ordinary-side elastics are
employed in the ordinary manner extending to the usual height and depth, but
above the top portion of such a boot I provide a piece which is secured at one
point at the rear, and forms as it were two flaps which extend upwards as high as
may be desired, and when brought together entirely encircle the leg, and are
arranged to be fastened and unfastened by means of buttons and button-boles. In
such a boot this upper portion or leglet inust considerably overlap the top part of:
the portion which extends to the ordinary height, for the reason that the flaps
forming the leglet will not be sewn to any part of the boot, excepting at a
comparatively small point at the rear thereof. A piece of elastic web will be
inserted in the inner side of the leglet or upper leg, part in the same manner as
described with respect to the lacing boot above referred to.
The manner of cutting the leather to secure the improvements above described
may be varied, that is to say, the flaps and sides may be made in somewhat different
shapes, and the number of pieces in which they are made may be more or less,
according to circumstances, but such details will be readily understood by boot
makers without further description, the essential feature of my Invention being
the provision of means, as above described, for rendering the upper leg portion of a
high legged boot elastic or yielding, and at the same time sufficiently tight to give
the desired support to the leg, these advantages being obtained without interfering
with the facility for putting the boot upon or removing it from the foot.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent åle by
the said Edward Barnes in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 18th March
1881.
EDWARD BARNES, of Chesham, in the County of Buckingham.
IN THE MANUfacture of BOOTS."
"IMPROVEMENTS
My Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots, and consists
in making the same in such a manner that they will enclose the leg of the wearer
to a considerable height without being inconveniently tight and rigid at their upper
part, that is to say, the upper part of the boot is formed like a gaiter or leglet, and
of leather or other suitable inelastic inaterial with an elastric strip inserted therein,
so that the uncomfortable prossure and tightness ordinarily experienced by the
wearers of high-legged boots is effectually prevented. Moreover, in men's boots,
this gaiter or upper part is so constructed that it may be worn either inside or
outside the trousers, and will have a more sightly appearance than the ordinary
gaiters, whilst at the same time it will serve the purpose of such gaiters very
efficiently, and will be perfectly comfortable.
The ordinary high-legged boots, that is to say, that class of boots whose upper
part is made to extend up the leg higher than in ordinary hoots, are now much
worn, and are found to be very advantageous in many cases, particularly for those
persons who take much exercise; but the part of such boots which extends upward
above the height of an ordinary boot is always inconveniently tight upon the leg,
and rigid when fastened closely, and if not so fastened presents a slovenly and
untidy appearance. This tightness is particularly inconvenient after a boot has
been worn during walking, skating, or other exercise, as the leg of the wenrer
swells, and the leather then presses very tightly thereon.
My Invention enables me to provide a high-legged boot which is free from the
disadvantage above mentioned, is flexible and yielding at the upper part thereof,
and is exceedingly comfortable to the wearer, and elegant in appearance.
The said Invention may be applied to Indies and children's high-legged boots, as
well as to travellers' or sportsmen's boots, and in all cases will be found highly
advantageous, for the reason that the upper part or gaiter of the boot will give or
expand by reason of its flexibility, thus obviating the difficulty hitherto experienced
in bending the ordinary high-legged boots when the body is thrown forward in
walking.

page_text: I will first proceed to describe the boots shewn in Figures 1 to 4 of the Drawing,
which boots are designed to be fastened by a lace. "These boots are provided with
the usual lace-holes as shewn, extending as far or nearly as far as the height of an
ordinary boot, and above this height the leather is so cut as to pass around the
front of the leg in the form of a flap, that is to say, the leather extending from
the rear at the top and along the inner side of the boot terininates in a flap, as
shewn at a, passing around or over the front of the boot above the laced part, as
shewn in Figures 1 and 4; this flap is arranged to be fastened to a piece c attached
by sewing or otherwise to the outside quarter & of the boot by means of buttons
or studs upon the said part on the outer side of the boot, the flap a being
provided with button holes for the purpose, as shewn. The rearward portions of
the leather from which the parts a, c, are formed meet centrally at the back, and
are sewn together in the usual inauner. At the upper part of this high portion or
leglet of the boot and on the side opposite to that upon which the flap a is buttoned
to the part c 1 insert. a piece e of elastic web or material, the leather being
suitably cut to receive the same, as shewn, This elastic web is varied in length
and breadth according to the amount of elasticity required, and the class of boot
to which it is applied, and preferably tapers in a downward direction. When the
flap-a-is-unfastened and the front of the boot loosened, the foot may be readily
inserted into the same, and then-the-front-of-the-boot may be fastened tightly and
neatly, and the flap a may be connected to the part cso-that-the-whole-upper_
part or leglet-will-fit-evenly and closely to the leg. The small piece of elastic a
arranged on one side of the leglet or gaiter, as-above.described, provides sufficient
elasticity to prevent that tightness-and-rigidity which is a defect in the high-legged
boots as heretofore constructed. Instead of securing or stitching-the lower edge
of the part c to the outside quarter d of the boot, as.above described, the said part
may be left free from the said quarter at its lower edge so as to forin -a flap
somewhat similar to the flap and capable of being opened out to further facilitate
the insertion and withdrawal of the foot of the wearer of the boot.
In Figure 5 I have shewn the application to a boot of what I terin an expanding
or adjustable top to enable the leglet or gaiter of the hoot to be worn either on
the inside ог outside of the trousers as desired. For this purpose I have
shewn the two parts a, c, adapted to be connected by a lace and lacing hooks
so that the said parts may be drawn more or less closely together according to the
tension exerted upon the lace in securing the leglet either within or upon the
outside of the trousers.
In Figure 6 I have shewn the two parts a, c, arranged to be connected by straps
and buckles f, g, to permit of their use either inside or outside the trousers, as
above described.
In Figure 7 and 8 I have shewn a boot having a leglet or gaiter of considerable
length whose two parts a, c, are connected by buttons, as above described with
reference to Figures 1 to 4.
In adapting my improvements to high-legged boots which are designed to be
fastened and unfastened by means of buttons, I provide buttons and button-holes
in the ordinary manner completely to the top of the boot in much the usual
position, and to avoid the rigidity which exists in the upper parts of such boots
when made to extend far up the leg I let in a small piece of elastic web on one or
both sides at the top of the leg-portion of the boot, as hereinbefore described with
respect to one side of the leglet of a lacing boot.
I may also adapt my Invention to boots provided with the ordinary side elastio
webs, as shewn in Figures 9 and 10, in place of buttons or laces. In this case I
insert in one side of the boot a piece h of elastic web which extends from the
lower part to the upper end of the leglet or top of the boot, as shewn in Figure 9,
and I provide the leather or other material on one side of the said elastic web and
at the front of the boot with the flap which extends over and is secured by
butions or otherwise to the piece c attached to the upward extension of the piece
of eather forming the heel of the boot. This piece of elastic web extending to

page_text: the top of the leglet serves in this case the same purpose as the strip e hereinbefore
described. Instead of arranging the aforesaid strip of elastic web at the side of the
upper leg-portion or leglet, as above described and shewn in the Drawing, I in
some cases arrange such elastic web in the flap a at the front of the said "leglet,
or the said elastic web may be arranged in any other suitable position as desired.
The manner of cutting the leather to secure the improvements above described
may be varied, that is to say, the flap or flaps and sides or quarters may be made
in somewhat different shapes, and the number of pieces in which they are made
may be varied according to circumstances, but such details will be readily
understood by boot makers without further description, the essential feature of my
Invention being the provision of means, as above described, for rendering the upper
leg-portion or leglet of a high-legged boot elastic or yielding, and at the same time
sufficiently tight to give the desired support to the leg, these advantages being
obtained without interfering with the facility for putting the boot upon or
removing it from the foot by the combination of the gaiter or leglet, consisting
chiefly of leather or other inelastic material with the boot as above described.
Having thus fully described my said Invention and the manner of performing
the same, I wish it understood that I do not confine myself to the particular
devices above described for fastening the two parts a and c of the leglet as loops,
studs, hooks and eyes, or other devices may be used for this purpose without
departing from the spirit of this Invention; I also wish it understood that I am
aware that anklets or gaiters consisting essentially of two pieces of elastic web
have been combined with ladies' boots or shoes having elastic sides, but such
gaiters differ from those above described, in that they afford little or no support to
the leg of the wearer and become very unsightly and troublesome.by reason of their
stretching and distortion after slight wear, but I claim,―
A hoot having a leglet or upper leg-portion formed of leather or other suitable
inelastic material and a strip or piece of elastic material arranged in such a manner
as to afford the required elasticity to the part surrounding the leg without
impairing its capability of supporting the latter, and provided with buttons or other
fastenings, substantially as above set forth and for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Barnes, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Sixteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty one.
EDWARD BARNES. (L.S.)