IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFAC- TURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to. Henry Mallet, of St. Mary's Gate, Nottingham,
Lace Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFAC-
TURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES."
Sealed the 24th November 1865, and dated the: 1st June 1865..
1 :
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Mallet at the'
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 1st
June 1865.
I, HENRY MALLET, of St. Mary's Gate, Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of lace:
in twist lace machines. In the manufacture of imitations of Valenciennes
laces in twist lace machines the purled or looped edges have heretofore been
produced in various ways.
Now, according to the present Invention the loops of the purls are so forined
as to be closed at the roots, and there they are also intersected by a single,
thread, whilst the loops forming the purls are each beyond the root produced
by a single thread or two threads. slightly twisted and worked as a single
thread. In the working of a twist lace machine in order to carry out this,
Invention it is preferred that the loops of the purls should be produced by a.,
warp, and that this warp should be composed of two threads very slightly:
twisted and working into the lace as one thread, being actuated by a single ;

page_text: guide. Working with the warp purling thread is a bobbin or carriage thread,
and this thread closes the root of each loop, whilst the loop itself is held out
or distended by a lacing thread in the ordinary manner. These two threads,
which are employed in producing the loops of the purl, twist together at other
times, and may, in making the purl edge of the lace, be intersected by any
desired number of warp threads, and it is preferred that when two or more
parallel longitudinal warp threads are used to intersect the purling threads in
making the edge of the lace, that the two purling threads should twist
together between the neighbouring longitudinal warp threads, but this is not
essential.
When making lace in imitation of Valenciennes lace I produce the ground
by the employment of two warp threads to each bobbin thread, and where
there are to be weavings produced the pairs of warp threads are wound on
separate beams, so that the two warp threads of a carriage or bobbin thread
may be worked up unequally; and then in place of the pairs of warp threads
passing through the weavings side by side and as one warp thread, and also
in place of employing extra warp threads as weft threads, one of each of such
pairs of warp threads is used as a weft thread, or as a boundary thread to the
weavings, and thus the corded or ribbed effect heretofore resulting from the
use of pairs of threads as single threads in the weavings is avoided, and the
cutting off of threads, as when extra wefting threads are used, is rendered
unnecessary; the weavings thus produced are like what have been produced
when using one warp thread to each bobbin thread, and they are formed on a
ground or net of two warps to a bobbin.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Henry Mallet in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th
November 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
MALLET, of Saint Mary's Gate, Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of June, in the year of our Lord
One-thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of Her
reigu, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Henry Mallet, Her special licence that I, the said Henry Mallet,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said

page_text: Henry Mallet, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Henry Mallet, my executors of adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should. particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henry Mallet, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say:
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of lace
in twist lace machines. In the manufacture of imitations of Valenciennes
laces in twist lace machines the purled or looped edges have heretofore been
produced in various ways.
Now, according to the present Invention the loops of the purls are so
formed as to be closed at the roots, and there they are also intersected by a
single thread, whilst the loops forming the purls are each beyond the root
produced by a single thread or two threads slightly twisted and worked as a
single thread. In the working of a twist lace machine in order to carry out
this Invention it is preferred that the loops of the purls should be produced by
a warp, and that this warp should be composed of two threads very slightly
twisted and working into the lace as one thread; being actuated by a single
guide. Working with the warp purling thread is a bobbin or carriage thread,
and this thread closes the root of each loop, whilst the loop itself is held out or
distended by a lacing thread in the ordinary 'manner. These two threads,
which are employed in producing the loops of the purl, twist together at other.
times, and may in making the purl edge of the lace be intersected by any
desired number of warp threads, and it is preferred that when two or more
parallel longitudinal warp, threads. are used to intersect the purling threads;
in making the edge of the lace, that the two/purling threads should twist
together. between the neighbouring longitudinal warp threads, but this is not
essential,
When making lace in imitation of Valenciennes lace I produce the ground

page_text: by the employment of two!warp threads to each bobbin thread, and where
there. are to. be weavings produced the pairs of warp threads are wound on
separate beams, so that the two warp threads of a carriage or bobbin thread
may be worked up unequally, and then in place of the pairs of warp threads
passing through the weavings side by side and as one warp thread, and also in
place of employing extra warp threads as weft threads, one of each of such pairs
of warp threads is used as a weft thread or as a boundary thread to the
weavings, and thus the corded or ribbed effect heretofore resulting from the
use of pairs of threads as single threads in the weavings is avoided, and the
cutting off of threads, as when extra wefting threads are used, is rendered
unnecessary, the weavings thus produced are like what have been produced
when using one warp thread to each bobbin thread, and they are formed on a
ground or net of two warps to a bobbin.
In carrying out the first part of the Invention it is preferred to employ a
warp thread composed of two threads very slightly twisted, and also a bobbin
thread of the ordinary description. The purling wrap thread is caused first to
twist with its bobbin thread, then to move to form a loop of purl which is to
be held by a lacing thread in the usual manner, then the purling warp thread
is to be moved. back and caused to twist with its bobbin thread in the reverse
direction to that in which it previously twisted with its bobbin or carriage
thread, by this means the root of the loop will be closed. The purling warp
thread and its bobbin or carriage thread are then to be caused to link with or
join the lace. The thread which intersects the purling threads at the root of
the loop of purl produced, as above explained, is to be caused to move
between the purling thread and its bobbin thread before the purling warp
thread is moved to form a loop, and such intersecting thread is to be moved
back to its original position after the purling warp thread has been moved
back to its carriage or bobbin thread as above described. If more than one
intersecting thread be used at the purled edge of the lace a workman will
readily do so; it being however preferred in all cases. where two or more such
intersecting threads are employed to cause the purling warp and bobbin
threads to twist together between the succeeding intersecting threads.
I will now describe more fully the nature and manner of performing the
second part of the Invention, and in doing so I will suppose that a twist lace
machine has been arranged to make breadths having two warp threads to
each carriage thread, and I will further suppose that it is desired to make a
weaving or figure surrounded by net equal in width to four carriage and eight
warp threads. The eight warp threads which are to contribute in making
the weaving or figure should be carried by separate guide bars. The two

page_text: back warp threads and the two front warp threads which are to act as weft
threads are to be wound on separate beams, the other four may come from
the warp or main beam. I will now suppose that the machine has been at
work making net or ground work, and it is desired to make the figure, the
four warp threads which come from the main warp beam should be made to
stand one between each carriage thread, and the other four warp threads
from separate beams should be made to act as weft threads by passing
between the warp threads and the carriage threads in the ordinary manner of
weaving; or, if it is desired to use boundary threads, I prefer to have the back
warp thread and the three front warp threads (of the eight which are to make
the figure) to be wound on separate beams. Then the back warp thread and
one of the three front warp threads will act as weft threads and the other two
as boundary threads. A workman by following these instructions will be
able to make figures of any size by using more or less weft threads or boundary
threads (according to the size of the figure required), so as to leave only one
warp thread to one carriage thread in the figure.
I have not thought it necessary in the above description to speak of the
edge or head of the lace, because any desired edge or head may be produced.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Mallet, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-seventh day of November, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
FE
HENRY MALLET. (..)