A Self Fitting Garment at Neck and Bust.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Sept., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 4th Nov., 1891-Accepted, 5th Dec., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A Self Fitting Garment at Neck and Bust.
JAMES WEBBER HAMMETT 188 & 190 Euston Road St. Pancras London N.W.
in the County of Middlesex Manufacturer of Blouses Costumes and Mantles do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention consists of cutting folding & by the aid of elastic band or bands
making a garment that shall expand or contract as required to fit the figure on
which it is placed.
Hitherto garments have been made to a given measure at neck & a given measure
at bust the collar or neck band of which is generally cut the length of neck measure
only. But should the collar be cut longer it is folded or gathered so as to come to
the length of measure only given for the neck and then sown onto the garment or
fastened with a band at the neck so that it remains permanently- only the length of
neck measure.
By my process the whole of the garment including the collar is cut at least as
wide again as required to fit the bust. The collar and bust of the garment is then
either gathered or folded into vertical or horizontal pleats at equal distances or in
groups of pleats as required. An elastic band or bauds is now fastened to the
whole or portion of the collar or collar seam so as to hold the gathers or pleats
together.
The elastic will be shorter than required to fit the neck but will be fixed to the
garment so as to allow it to expand or contract as required.
By this means the collar would expand or contract with the bust and adapt itself
to fit the figure on which it is placed.
September 28th 1901
JAMES WEBBER HAMMETT.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A Self Fitting Garment at Neck and Bust.
JAMES WEBBER HAMMETT 188 & 190 Euston Road St. Pancras London in
the County of Middlesex, Manufacturer of Blouses Costumes and Mantles do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
Hitherto garments have been made to a given measure at neck, and a given
measure at bust, the neck band, or collar of which is generally cut the length of
neck measure only. But should the collar be cut longer, it is folded or gathered so
as to come to the length of measure given for neck, and after the neck portion of
the garment has been gathered or pleated to the neck measure. The collar or band
is then sown on to it, so that it remains permanently at the junction of the collar
& body of the garment, only the length of neck measure.
Figure 1 & Figure 14 of the accompanying drawings shows a half collar and
garment as hitherto used.
Figure 2 shows the same with collar attached.
By my process the whole of the garment including the collar is cut at least as
wide again as required to fit the bust. The collar & bust of the garment is then
either gathered or folded into vertical or horizontal pleats at equal distances or in
groups of pleats as required. An elastic band or bands is now fastened to the
whole or portion of the collar or collar seam so as to hold the gathers or pleats

page_text: together. The elastic will be shorter than required for the neck but will be fixed
to the garment so as to allow it to expand or contract as required. By this means
the collar would expand or contract with the bust and adapt itself to fit the figure
on which it is placed. Figs. 3 & 34 show the garment before it is creased or
pleated according to my invention and Fig. 4 shows the same after. Fig. 4 shows
the junction of the collar and the body.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:-
1st. Making a garment so that it shall expand or contract at that portion shown
as Figure 4 thereby enabling the neck & bust to fit the figure on which it is placed
substantially as set forth.
Dated this Fourth day of November 1891.