IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1871

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Wormald and Syrias Henry Hall, of
Leeds, in the County of York, Machinists, for the Invention of
** IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
Scaled the 24th October 1871, and dated the 25th April 1871.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Wormald and
Syrias Henry Hall at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 25th April 1871.
We, WILLIAM WORMALD and SYRIAS HENRY HALL, of Leeds, in the
County of York, Machinists, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," (to be as follows) :—
This Invention has for its object such improvements in sewing
machines as will enable the same machine to produce the lock stitch
from two ordinary reels of thread without the necessity of rewinding
the thread into smaller quantities upon temporary reels or other appa-
ratus made to suit the machine, as heretofore. Also to produce the
double chain stitch from two ordinary reels of thread. Also to produce
the loop stitch with one thread, and to effect a simplicity and accuracy
in the fastening of the needles in the needle bar. And also improve-
ments in the feeder or feed apparatus of sewing machines.

page_text: In order to produce the lock stitch we have one reel of thread placed
upon a stud fixed on the top of the machine as usual, and the thread is
passed through or between two washers or discs fixed in the top end
of the needle bar, thence through the eye of the needle from left to
right. The vertical needle is made flat on one side, forming a shoulder
thereon, and the needle bar is constructed suitable to receive the needle
always in the same exact position. The needle is held in its place by
means of a screwed lever or nut placed upon the bottom end of the
needle bar, which is split, and formed taper and screwed.
The reciprocatory motion of the needle bar is derived from a lever
and connecting link or rod working upon an eccentric pulley fixed upon
a horizontal rotary shaft. On the other end of this shaft is an
eccentric disc or stud plate for working the feeder, which gives it both
a vertical and horizontal movement for the purpose of carrying the
work along. The movement of the feeder is regulated by means of
a groove or slot being cut in the vertical part thereof; also a groove
being cut in the stationary. body of the machine, in which is placed a
block capable of being moved up and down by means of a screw passing
through it, and on one side of this block is a round pin entering into
the groove of the feeder, forming a fulcrum or pivot on which it works,
so that by moving this pivot in the groove or slot of the feeder a longer
or shorter stroke is effected, which forms the length of the stitch. To
the aforesaid disc is connected a hook working close to the needle and
capable of entering the loop made by the rising of the needle. This
hook is so formed as to carry to the thread in the loop around a spool
case, or case containing the second recl of thread, one end being formed
conical for the loop to pass easily on to the case, and thence forward to
the needle, when it enters the second loop and draws up the thread of
the first, and so forms the lock stitch. This conical spool case is formed
in two halves, hinged together so as to open for insertion of an ordinary
recl of thread, and having an eye or hole therein for the thread to pass
through as required. It is held in proper position immediately under
the point of the needle by means of a flat piece of hide or some other
suitable material fixed on the top, and fitting loosely in slides formed
in or fixed to the table of the machine. This flat piece of ludo is
formed taper at one end, and that taper end placed towards the taper
end of the spool case, so that the thread will casily pass over it in its
passage around the case.

page_text: In order to produce the double chain stitch by the same machine
the two threads are placed in the machine in the same way as is for
the lock stitch, and the flat picce of hide, or whatever material may
be used, is turned with the squarc end to the front or point of the case;
then, instead of the loop being carried past the needle groove below the
needle has penetrated a second time to its lowest point (as is the case
in making the lock stitch), the loop is held on one side by the square
end of the hide until the needle has passed down a second time and
entered the first loop. The second loop is then carried forward by the
hook, which draws up the thread of the first loop as before, and so
produces the double chain stitch.
For producing the single chain or or loop stitch by the same machine,
we proceed in the same manner as before described, except that the
under thread used for the lock stitch and double chain stitch is not used.
The casc, however, may remain in its place and the reel of thread in
the case, but not used.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Wormald and Syrias Henry Hall in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 25th October 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, WILLIAM
WORMALD and SYRIAS HENRY HALL, of Leeds, in the County of York,
Machinists, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of April, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one, in the thirty-
fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto us, the said William Wormald and Syrias Henry Hall,
Her special licence that we, the said William Wormald and Syrias
Henry Hall, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as we, the said William Wormald and Syrias Henry Hall, our executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING

page_text: MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said
William Wormald and Syrias Henry Hall, our executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under our, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said William Wormald and Syrias
Henry Hall, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement, that is to say:—
This Invention has for its object such improvements in sewing
machines as will enable the same machine to produce the lock stitch
from two ordinary reels of thread without the necessity of rewinding
the thread into smaller quantities upon temporary reels or other
apparatus made to suit the machine as heretofore. Also to produce
the double chain stitch from two ordinary reels of thread.
Also to
produce the loop stitch with one thread, and to effect a simplicity
and accuracy in the fastening of the needles in the needle bar. And
also improvements in the feeder or feed apparatus of sewing machines.
In order to produce the lock stitch we have one reel of thread placed
upon a stud fixed on the top of the machine, as usual, and the thread is
passed through or between two washers or discs fixed in the top end of
the needle bar, thence through the eye of the needle from left to right.
The vertical needle is made flat on one side forming a shoulder thereon,
and the needle bar is constructed suitable to receive the needle always
in the same exact position. The needle is held in its place by means of
a screwed lever or nut placed upon the bottom end of the needle bar,
which is split and formed taper and screwed.
The reciprocatory motion of the needle bar is derived from a lever
and connecting link or rod working upon an eccentric pulley fixed upon
a horizontal rotary shaft. On the other end of this shaft is an eccentric
disc or stud plate for working the feeder, which gives it both a vertical
and horizontal movement for the purpose of carrying the work along.
The movement of the feeder is regulated by means of a groove or slot
being cut in the vertical part thereof; also a groove being cut in the
stationary body of the machine in which is placed a block capable of

page_text: being moved up or down by means of a screw passing through it, and on
one side of this block is a round pin entering into the groove of the
fecder, forming a fulcrum or pivot on which it works, so that by moving
this pivot in the groove or slot of the feeder a longer or shorter stroke is
effected which forms the length of the stitch. To the aforesaid disc is
connected a hook working close to the needle and capable to enter the
loop made by the rising of the needle. This hook is so formed as to
carry the thread in the loop around a spool case or case containing the
second reel of thread, one end being formed conical for the loop to pass
easily on to the case, and thence forward to the needle when it enters
the second loop and draws up the thread of the first, and so forms the
lock stitch. This conical spool case is formed in two halves hinged
together so as to open for insertion of an ordinary reel of thread, and
having an eye or hole therein for the thread to pass through as required:
It is held in proper position immediately under the point of the needle
by means of a flat piece of hide or some other suitable material fixed on
the top and fitting loosely in slides formed in or fixed to the table of the
machine. This flat piece of hide is formed taper at one end and that
taper end placed toward the taper end of the spool case, so that the
thread will easily pass over it in its passage around the case. In order
to produce the double chain stitch by the same machine the two threads
are placed in the machine in the same way as is for the lock stitch, and
the flat piece of hide, or whatever material may be used, is turned with
the square end to the front or point of the case. Then instead of the
loop being carried past the needle groove before the needle has pene-
trated a second time to its lowest point (as is the case in making the lock
stitch) the loop is held on one side by the square end of the hide until
the needle has passed down a second time and entered the first loop.
The second loop is then carried forward by the hook which draws up
the thread of the first loop as before, and so produces the double chain
stitch.
For producing the single chain or loop stitch by the same machine we
proceed in the same way as before described, except that the under
thread used for the lock stitch and double chain stitch is not used. The
case, however, must remain in its place and the reel of thread may
remain in the case, but not used.
Such being the nature and object of this our said Invention, we will now
procced to describe the same in detail: and in order that the Invention

page_text: may be clearly understood, we have hercunto annexed two Sheets of
Drawings, and have marked the same with figures and letters of
reference, the same letters referring to the same parts in the various
views and figures.
Fig. 1 is the front side clevation (partly in section) of a sewing
machine, constructed in accordance with our said Invention; Fig. 2 is
the back end elevation; Fig. 3 is the front end elevation; Fig. 4 is the
plan or top view; and Fig. 5 is a detached part of the same.
A is an ordinary reel of thread placed on a stud fixed on the top of
the machine frame, as usual, the thread from which reel is passed
between the two washers or discs B, mounted loosely on the top of the
needle bar B', and pressed by a spring B2; the thread is thence passed
through the eye of the needle C, from left to right. The needle is made
flat on one side, or a shoulder is formed thereon as shown at Fig. 6
(which is a detached needle), and the hole in the needle bar is suitably
formed to receive the needle in proper position. The needle is
fastened in the needle bar B¹ by means of the screwed or tapped lever
or nut D fitting on the lower end of the said needle bar, which is split
or cut longitudinally a short distance upwards, and formed taper and
screwed so as that by turning the said nut the bar will be nipped tight
upon the needle. The reciprocatory motion of the needle bar is derived
from a lever E, and a connecting link or rod F worked or operated by
an eccentric F¹, fixed on the horizontal rotary shaft F. On the other
end of this shaft is another eccentric G for giving motion to the feeder G',
which works or oscillates upon a pin G³, imparting to such feeder a
vertical and horizontal motion so as to carry or move the work along.
The degree of movement is determined and regulated by having the
said pin G movcable, up or down in a groove or slot H cut in the
feeder, and in another groove II' cut in the frame I of the machine, and
which pin may be fixed in a slide block or on the end of a lever J, ;
which is readily raised or lowered by means of the screw J'; the pin G²
thus forming a pivot or fulcrum, on which the feeder G works, so that
according to the position (higher or lower) so will the motion of feed
be more or less, and thus determining the length of stitch. On the end
of shaft Fs is also fixed a stud plate G, to which is attached a hook K,
which by the rotation of the said plate is caused to work close to the
needle, and take into or enter the loop formed by the raising or
withdrawal thereof. This hook is so formed as to carry the thread L

page_text: -
around the spool case M. (or case containing a second reel of thread),
one end of the said case being formed (as shewn) conical, so that
the loop may readily pass on to and over the case when it becomes
disengaged from the hook. The said hook passing forward to the
needle enters another loop formed thereby, and draws up the thread
of the first loop, and thus forms the lock stitch. The varying positions
of the hook K whilst holding the loop, are shewn by dotted lines at
Fig. 3. The presser foot C is lowered by means of the thumb cam
being turned outwards, or from the operator on which the lever d will
descend, carrying by means of the pine the presser foot on to the.
"work" or bed plate of the machine. The other end of the lever d
will move upwards on the pin has fulcrum and relieve the tension
discs K, which may be substituted in lieu of the tension discs shewn
at B on the needle bar B', when the said needle bar may be constructed
as shewn at Fig 10, with a slit in the top end and a light spiral sprig
introduced for one thread to pass over, which will take up the slack.
Instead of the needle bar being split at its bottom end with a screwed
nut for fastening the needle therein, as shown and described, the said.
bar may be made as shewn in Figs. 11, 12 and 13, where it is bored out
for size of needle in the usual manner; but a slip of steel is fitted across
a portion of the hole so that the flat side of the needle will fit against it,
and this slip thus becomes a guide for the needle being introduced
the proper way, and is fastened by an ordinary thumb screw as shewn.
In order to form by this machine the double chain stitch, we have
a guide piece of hide or other material fixed on the spool case, formed
as shown at Fig. 7, one end being taper on both sides, and the other
only on one side. When this picce is turned the contrary way on the
case the thread will catch on the corner O, and prevent that side of
the loop passing over the spool case, but is held back until the needle
has entered again, thereby passing through the loop and thus forming
the double chain stitch, and the same effect may be produced by having
a pin P on a spring Q attached to the spool case slide S, which pin
passes through a hole in the said slide on which the thread will catch
in like manner to the hide, and when required to form the lock stitch
this pin may be withdrawn.
For producing the single chain or loop stitch by the same machine,
we proceed in the same way as before described, except that the under
thread used for the lock stitch and double chain stitch is not used.

page_text: The case however must remain in its place, and the reel of thread in the
case, but not used.
Having thus described and ascertained the nature and object of this
our Invention, and shewn by Drawings in what manner the same is
or may be performed or carried into practical operation, we would have
it understood that we claim,-
Firstly. The construction, combination, and arrangement of apparatus
as herein fully described and shewn, whereby the lock stitch, double
chain stitch, and the single chain or loop stitch are produced.
Secondly. The application and use of a spool case, as and for purposes
herein fully described and illustrated.
Thirdly. The constructing needles with a flat side or shoulder, and
in combination therewith the means for securing such needles in the
needle bars, as fully described and shewn.
Lastly. The method or means of operating and regulating the feed 1
apparatus, as herein described and shewn in the Drawings.
In witness whereof, we, the said William Wormald and Syrias
Henry Hall, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-
third day of October, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-one.
Witness,
JOSEPH STEAD,
Clerk to W. Tasker,
Patent Agent,
(L.S.)
WILLIAM WORMALD.
SYRIAS HENRY HALL. (L.S.)
Halifax & Bradford.