Improvements in Sewing Machines used for Sewing together the Parts of Gloves.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Apr., 1990
Complete Specification Left, 15th Jan., 1891-Accepted, 21st Feb., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines used for Sewing together the
Parts of Gloves.
I, WALTER HENRY BRICKLEY of Lowesmoor in the County of Worcester,
Sewing Machine Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
This invention relates to sewing machines used for sewing together the parts of
gloves with what are known as "prick seams." Such seams are made by stitching
through the edges of the two parts whilst the two parts are held together one
against the other.
In "prick seam" sewing machines as now made the needle works to and fro in a
horizontal position and the work is nipped between two vertical upright cylinders
and is by them fed past the needle. The needle is moved to and fro parallel with
a line passing through the centres of the two cylinders and close down to the top
edges of the two cylinders where they meet together whilst the shuttle is made to
oscillate to and fro in a circular race in a vertical plane at right angles to the needle
just above one of the feed cylinders.
As the needle when passing into the work must necessarily press down closely on
the edges of the feed cylinders the needle as it penetrates the work is often caused
to rise up above the face of the shuttle box so that it gets caught by the point of
the shuttle when the shuttle advances-the result being either that the needle is
broken or that the point of the shuttle is damaged.
To remedy this it has been usual to make the needle to work to and fro in a plane
that inclines somewhat downwards so that the point of the needle is somewhat lower
than its shank the needle entering the shuttle box in this position strikes downwards
away from the shuttle and the machine is caused to miss stitches.
I obviate these difficulties and enable the needle to enter the shuttle box in a
horizontal position in the following manner. When the needle has been passed
through the work and has completed its movement and formed its loop I cause a
lever actuated by a cam to descend on to the portion of the needle which has passed
beyond the back of the shuttle race and slightly press down the needle below the
face of the shuttle box before the point of the shuttle reaches the needle slot
and so hold the needle down until the shuttle has passed through the loop
thereby preventing the shuttle and needle from coming in contact with one
another.
The action of the needle and shuttle in ordinary prick seam machines is, that the
needle enters the shuttle box when the shuttle is about central with the needle slot,
leaving the shuttle thread loose, the result being that the needle occasionally passes
on the wrong side of the shuttle cotton making what is technically called a crossed
stitch spoiling the appearance of the sewing in the glove.
To remedy this I form the cam which actuates the shuttle in such a manner that
the shuttle after having passed through the loop and formed a stitch is made to return
to its furthest extremity or starting point before the point of the needle enters the
shuttle box thereby straining the shuttle thread tight between the hole in the
needle plate and the shuttle and making it impossible for the needle to pass on
the wrong side of the shuttle cotton.
The take up lever in prick seam machines has hitherto depended upon a spring
acting upon the lever to take up the loose thread, which has been the cause of much
annoyance and difficulty from the thread continually snapping, I employ a crank
lever working on a pin fixed to the end of the bar or slide from which descends
the arm which at its lower end carries the horizontal needle. One arm of the

page_text: lever projects downwards and the thread is passed through an eye at its lower
end the other is approximately horizontal and has a groove in it into which enters
a roller fixed by a bracket to the side of machine. The groove is made of such a
form that the lever as it is carried to and fro with the needle bar or slide is rocked
on its axis to the extent and at the times necessary for giving and taking up at
each stitch the exact amount of thread or silk required by the shuttle, and so
being certain in its action pulls up a tighter and more perfect stitch than has before
been produced.
Dated this 14th doxe of Anmil 1800.
VUMI DEIN DIUITIVATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines used for sewing together the
Parts of Gloves.
I, WALTER HENRY BRICKLEY of Lowesmoor in the County of Worcester,
Sewing Machine Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
"
This invention relates to sewing machines used for sewing together the parts of
gloves with what are known as "prick seams." Such seams are made by stitching
through the edges of the two parts whilst the two parts are held together one against
the other.
"
In "prick seam sewing machines as now made the needle works to and fro
in a horizontal position and the work is nipped between two vertical upright
cylinders and is by them fed past the needle. The needle is moved to and fro
parallel with a line passing through the centres of the two cylinders and close down
to the top edges of the two cylinders where they meet together whilst the shuttle is
made to oscillate to and fro in a circular race in a vertical plane at right angles to
the needle just above one of the feed cylinders.
As the needle when passing into the work must necessarily press down closely on
the edges of the feed cylinders the needle as it penetrates the work is often
caused to rise up above the face of the shuttle box so that it gets caught by the
point of the shuttle when the shuttle advances-the result being either that the
needle is broken or that the point of the shuttle is damaged.
To remedy this it has been usual to make the needle to work to and fro in a
plane that inclines somewhat downwards so that the point of the needle is some-
what lower than its shank, the needle entering the shuttle box in this position strikes
downwards away from the shuttle and the machine is caused to miss stitches.
I obviate these difficulties and enable the needle to enter the shuttle box in a
horizontal position in the following manner. When the needle has been passed
through the work and has completed its movement and formed its loop 1 cause a
lever actuated by a cam to descend on to the portion of the needle which has
passed beyond the back of the shuttle box and slightly pressed down the needle
below the face of the shuttle box before the point of the shuttle reaches the
needle slot and so hold the needle down until the shuttle has passed through
the loop thereby preventing the shuttle and needle from coming in contact with
one another.
The action of the needle and shuttle in ordinary prick seam machines is, that the
needle enters the shuttle box when the shuttle is about central with the needle slot,
leaving the shuttle thread loose, the result being that the needle occasionally
passes on the wrong side of the shuttle cotton, making what is technically called a
cross stitch spoiling the appearance of the sewing in the glove.
To remedy this I form the cam which actuates the shuttle in such a manner that
the shuttle after having passed through the loop and formed a stitch is made to
return to its furthest extremity or starting point before the point of the needle

page_text: enters the shuttle box thereby straining the shuttle thread tight between the hole
in the needle plate and the shuttle and making it impossible for the needle to pass
on the wrong side of the shuttle cotton.
The take up lever in prick seam machines has hitherto depended upon a spring
acting upon the lever to take up the loose thread, which has been the cause of
much annoyance and difficulty from the thread continually snapping, I employ a
crank lever working on a pin fixed to the end of the bar or slide from which
descends the arm which at its lower end carries the horizontal needle. One arm
of the lever projects downwards and the thread is passed through an eye at its
lower end-the other is approximately horizontal and has a groove in it into which
enters a roller fixed by a bracket to the side of machine. The groove is made
of such a form that the lever as it is carried to and fro with the needle bar or slide
is rocked on its axis to the extent and at the times necessary for giving and taking
up at each stitch the exact amount of thread or silk required by the shuttle, and so
being certain in its action pulls up a tighter and more perfect stitch than has
be ore been produced.
Figure of the drawings hereunto annexed is a side elevation of a machine
constructed as above described the rim on the underside of the bed plate being
partly cut away.
Figure 2 is a longitudinal vertical section taken through some of the parts of the
machine.
Figure 3 is an end elevation.
Figure 4 is a plan view of the lever and cam for giving an oscillating rotary
motion to the shuttle.
Figure 5 is a plan of this cam and the cam for giving motion to the needle in the
position in which they are in just before the presser for depressing the point of the
needle commences to be acted upon.
Figure 5* is a side view of the spring N¹.
Figure 6 is a plan of these cams in the position in which they are in just before
the point of the needle enters the shuttle box.
Figure 7 is a face view of the shuttle and shuttle box with the cover plate of the
box turned partly to one side.
A is the needle carried by a bent arm B¹ from the horizontal bar B which can
be slidden to and fro in guides on the frame of the machine-this bar receives its
to and fro motion as heretofore by a roller on a pin which descends from it entering
a cam groove in the upper side of a cam C which is fast on a vertical axis Ď
driven by bevil toothed wheels from the driving shaft E.
Fx is the shuttle box fixed to the frame of the machine F is the shuttle driver
fast on a shaft F to which an oscillating rotary motion is imparted as heretofore by
a bevil wheel on its end gearing into a toothed segment on a lever G which turns
on a fixed pin at G' and which is rocked to and fro by a roller G2 carried by a pin
which descends from it entering a cam groove in the cam H which is fast on the
cam axis D.
II are the two wheels between which the work is held. They are carried as
heretofore on vertical axes. The axis of one rises up through a fixed pedestal J
and at its lower end is driven by an ordinary silent ratchet feed motion from which
an arm K extends and is acted on by a cam K on the lower end of the cam axis as
in the machines as heretofore made.
The axis of the other wheel I forms part of a crank lever L which is acted on by
a spring M so as to keep the two wheels pressed together. The axes of the two
wheels are as heretofore geared together so that when one is turned the other
turns with it.
In the above respects the machine is constructed as heretofore.
N is the lever which as before stated I employ for depressing the point of the
needle just before the shuttle commences to pass-through the loop of thread thrown
up from it and for keeping it depressed until the shuttle has passed through the
loop. The tail end of this lever rests on a spring N' which at the time required is

page_text: acted upon and raised by a prominence O on the cam H. P is a spring by which
the front end of the lever istraised when-its tail end is not being acted on by the
prominence O.
The forms of the cams used for giving motion to the needle, shuttle and presser
are shewn at Figures 4, 5 and 6.
From Figure 5 it will be seen that immediately after the needle bar has com-
pleted its forward movement and has been drawn back sufficiently to cause a loop
to be thrown up from it,' the prominence O on the cam H commerces to act upon
the bent down end of the spring N' and thereby raise the tail end of the lever N
and so to depress the point of the needle, just before the shuttle commences to
make its forward movement.
From Figure 6 it will be seen that' the shuttle will have been caused to com-
plete its backward movement before the point of the needle in its forward movement
enters the shuttle race.
'R is the take up lever for taking up the slack of the needle thread as the needle
bar moves to and fro. R' is the groove formed in the horizontal arm of this lever
into which enters a pin S carried from the fixed frame of the machine. The groove
and pin as before stated cause the lever as it is carried to and fro with the needle
slide to be also rocked on its axis at the proper times and to the extent necessary
to give out and take up thread at each stitch."
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The employment of a lever to depress the point of the needle just before the
shuttle commences to enter the loop thrown up from it.
2. The construction of the cams for giving motion to the shuttle and needle
respectively in such a manner that the shuttle nose is caused to be drawn back
beyond the line of the needle before the point of the needle commences to enter
the shuttle race.
3. In sewing machines in which the needle bar moves to and fro horizontally
mounting a cranked take up lever upon the needle bar and forming a slot in the
horizontal arm of this lever for a fixed pin on the frame to pass through
substantially as described.
4. The construction of sewing machines substantially as herein before described
and illustrated in the drawing annexed.
Dated this 15th day of January 1891.
WALTER H. BRICKLEY.