Improvements in Apparatus for Sewing Beads, Chenille, and other Articles upon Trimmings and Ribbons.
Year: 1892

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Sewing Beads, Chenille, and other
Articles upon Trimmings and Ribbons.
I, KARL NECKER of 69 Adalbertstrasse Berlin in the Kingdom of Prussia and
German Empire, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to apparatus for sewing and securing beads, silk, chenille,
and other articles upon trimmings and ribbons. The work which such apparatus
performs has up to the present time been generally performed by hand, because the
few machines which have been made for the purpose have done their work in a very
imperfect manner. Indeed, the sewing of beads and pearls upon ribbons, which the
apparatus which is the subject of the present invention performs perfectly could not
be effected in a successful manner by any formerly existing machine.
These improvements ensure by their adoption, the non-existence of all the
disadvantages attending the use of the former machines, such as the breakages of
the beads pearls and thread, the irregularity of the work, and the imperfect
attachment of the articles to the trimmings or ribbons. They also enable a
great saving of the thread or yarn to be effected, owing to its advantageous
arrangement.
I will describe my said invention with reference to the accompanying drawings
which are representations of the apparatus as employed for sewing beads and pearls
upon a ribbon or cord.
In these drawings,
Figure 1 is a side elevation and Figure 2 a plan of the arrangement.
Figure 3 indicates the needle and the shuttle threads after being stitched to the
ribbon or cord.
Figure 4 shews the needle, the shuttle, and the pearl threads which have been
stitched upon the ribbon or cord.
Figure 5 shews the ribbon or cord with the beads or pearls sewn thereon.
Figures 6 to 15 inclusive shew in side view and plan the successive steps in the
operation of sewing on the beads.
Figure 16 represents in plan the device used for dividing out or apportioning the
beads or pearls; and,
Figures 17 and 18 shew in front view and vertical section respectively an alter-
native form of oscillating shuttle which may be used with the apparatus.
Figure 19 represents in detail the means employed for operating the bead
holder.
Figure 20 similarly illustrates the bead or pearl dividing device.
In Figure 21 is shewn the needle holder and its operating cam.
Figure 22 represents the reciprocating shuttle operating mechanism.
Figure 23 illustrates the second bead holding device by means of which the beads
are kept out of the way of the needle.
Referring to Figures 1 and 2, A is the casing of the apparatus which covers and
includes the driving mechanism illustrated in Figures 19 to 23 such for example as
cranks excentrics or cams, none of which are new, and all of which are perfectly
well known. On one side of the casing projects the end of the spindle B which
may be driven by means of the hand wheel C fixed thereon by a treadle, or by
power through a cord running around the grooved pulley D. The device for
dividing the beads or pearls into the requisite groups is arranged upon the top of
the casing A. This device (see also Figures 16 and 20) consists of two pairs of
shear blades e and f, the distance between which is capable of being regulated by

page_text: means of the adjusting screw b. The shear blades are periodically and alternately
opened as required by the two tapered pushes c and d, which engage with inclined
surfaces formed on the ends of the blades of each pair of shears as illustrated by
Figure 16, and are moved forward by the cams e' secured to the main shaft B of the
machine as shewn in Figure 20. The return motion is effected by suitable springs f¹.
The pairs of shears are closed by the springs u u¹.
The beads on the vertical thread being thus separated into determinate groups
by the alternate action dividing device, are pushed down upon the holder / which
has an open slot through which the bead thread passes, by the vertically moving
shifter which is provided to prevent the beads being stopped in the event of the
thread being rough or thick, and is reciprocated at the proper intervals by a plain
cam on the spindle B.
The bead holder his operated by the cams mounted upon the driving shaft B
by the rotation of which two motions one vertical and the other horizontal are
imparted to the holder . (See Figure 19.) The return motions are accomplished
by the aid of suitable springs. The second bead holder i holds the beads back to
the distance required to prevent their being in the way of the needle. It is
actuated from the disc Figure 23 which is formed with suitable lateral pro-
jections or recesses or is mounted upon the shaft B with its plane at some other
than a right angle to the axis of the shaft so that upon its rotation it imparts
an approximately horizontal motion to the holder i. By this means the beads are
held clear of the needle, the bead thread having been laid by the holder / upon the
holder i.
Although any suitable shuttle may be employed, it is preferred to use that repre-
sented by Figures 1 and 2 where indicates the body of the shuttle which contains
the usual bobbin. The shuttle is reciprocated in its race by the lever W which is
slotted at one end for the shuttle trunnion; and is pivoted at the other end at W¹
to the back of the machine casing. A suitable disc W is mounted upon the shaft B
and is furnished with a groove in which is placed a stud attached to the lever W so
that upon the rotation of the shaft B the lever and consequently the shuttle are
moved up and down. This method of operating is shewn in Figure 22.
The cord or ribbon passes from its reel or drum over the fluted disc n, against
which it is pressed by the roller p and the spring arm y Figure 2. The beads or
pearls are stitched upon the ribbon or cord at the highest part of the disc n by
means of the needle which is operated from the shaft B by a grooved disc as
clearly shown in Figure 21 and the finished product, after passing round any
ordinary tension device, is wound upon a suitable roller.
The beads or pearls, which may be of any desired form and size, are strung upon
a thread, which is wound upon the roller whence they pass-upon the thread-over
the tension pulley p² to the apportioning or dividing device efas already described.
The tension roller p' is controlled by a very elastic tension spring f³ so as always
to keep the bead thread under tension.
The fluted disc n is turned intermittently from the shaft B by any known means
and can be exchanged for a narrower or broader disc according to the width of the
work, or the number of beads which have to be stitched in a row.
Figures 3 and 4 represent the interlocking of the threads. The needle and the
shuttle threads mutually interlock and the pearl thread is thereby locked on both
sides of the cord or ribbon as shewn by Figure 4.
It will be seen from an examination of the figures that very little of the bead
thread is useless the only points being those at which the needle enters and leaves
the cord or ribbon. The remainder of the thread is sewn upon the goods at every
stitch simultaneously with the stringing on of the beads.
By this arrangement a great saving of thread is made, compared with other
machines used for similar purposes as these machines allow an empty thread to
float over the goods, so that with the same length of thread only half the number
of beads can be stitched on.
The cycle of movements in making the stitches is illustrated by Figures 6 to 15

page_text: "
inclusive, the needle and shuttle threads being for the sake of greater clearness
omitted. In Figure 6, the needle is in the material, the point being about half
way through. At this instant the holder h advances and catches the bead thread
below the two beads (or other number) which have already fallen down and lays it
upon one side of the material the beads being then held by the pin i.
The needle has now pierced the material and entered the loop formed by the
bead thread (Fig. 7). The holder now moves upwards and sideways releasing
the beads (Fig. 8), which are free to fall down upon the work and again engaging
with the bead thread lays it upon the second holder (Fig. 9). The fall of the
beads may be assisted by the pusher g. The shuttle thread having entered the
loop of the needle thread the needle begins to recede. Upon its withdrawal from
the cord or ribbon the holder i is operated (Figs. 10 and 14), and moves away so
as to leave the holder h free to lay the bead thread and its beads firmly upon the
cord. The holder h is then depressed (Fig. 11), and lowers the bead thread so
that the needle upon its forward journey passes over it and thus locks it in place
upon that side of the cord. The dividing device is now operated and permits a
fresh group of beads to fall upon the holder h which lays them upon the cord while
resuming its original position, the same motion being gone through as before.
The dividing device consists of the two pairs of shear blades e and f Figures 1, 2,
16, and 20, arranged one above the other, the lower pair being almost hidden in
Figure 16, and they are intermittently and alternately opened by the tapered
pushes ed. When the pushes recede, the blades are closed by the springs u u'.
By the adjustment of the distance between the two sets of shear blades, by means
of the screw b, the number of beads told off for each stitch is accurately
determined.
Alternatively an oscillating round shuttle may be employed (Figures 17 and 18)
which consists of the body or casing in the centre of which there is a fixed pivot.
upon which the bush or washer y and the bobbin m are mounted. The bobbin is
connected with the washer y by a pin z. A spring which is fitted with the casing
presses into a groove on the washer y so as to retard or act as a brake upon the
motion of the bobbin. By this means shocks are avoided and the friction is
reduced, thus preventing the frequent breakage of the thread.
it
If, instead of beads, it is desired to attach silk or chenille to the cord or ribbon
may be done in precisely the same manner the silk or chenille being substituted
for the bead thread. In this case the bead dividing device would of course be
superfluous.
Before the apparatus is started, the dividing device is adjusted according to the
number of beads which it is desired should be sewn on for each stitch, and to their
size. A disc of such a width as may be required for the work, is then mounted,
and the material and the bead thread are led over the rollers. The lowest beads
rest upon the upper pair of blades of the dividers e and the thread is sewn to the
material by the shuttle and needle threads. The upper shear blades then open and
allow the beads to fall upon the lower blades which are closed, and by which they
are stopped. The upper blades now close and the lower ones open permitting only
the group of beads between the two sets of blades to fall.
The apparatus works quietly and quickly and will produce ten times the amount
of work which could be produced by hand.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is-
1. An apparatus for sewing beads chenille and other similar articles upon
trimmings and ribbons, constructed arranged and operated substantially as herein-
before described and as illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
2. In an apparatus for sewing beads and the like articles upon ribbons and
5 trimmings, a divider consisting of two superimposed pairs of blades alternately
opened by suitable devices and between which the bead thread passes, constructed

page_text: and arranged substantially as hereinbefore described and as illustrated by the
accompanying drawings.
3. In an apparatus for sewing beads chenille and similar articles upon trimmings
and ribbons, an oscillating shuttle having in its recess a fixed pivot upon which a
washer is mounted, the washer being retarded by a suitable brake and having the 5
bobbin connected therewith, constructed substantially as hereinbefore described
and as illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
4. In an apparatus for sewing beads and similar articles upon trimmings and
ribbons, the combination with a dividing device such as e, of a bead shifter g, a
bead holder h, and the holder i, substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore I
described and as illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
Datel this 21st day of Anil A D 1800
WILLIAM E. HEYS,
Agent for the Applicant.
WILLIAM E. HEYS,
Agent for the Applicant.