Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 21st May, 1887
Complete Left, 21st Mar., 1888
Complete Accepted, 27th Apr., 1888
WO FRIEDRICH HERMANN WILKE of Bradford in the County of York, Gentleman,
and GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of the same place, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this Invention to be as follows:
Our Invention relates to the manufacture of velvets plushes and other pile fabrics
and particularly to the method of production whereby two pieces are woven at once
face to face the two pieces being united by the pile warp which is common to both
pieces and which is severed to separate the two pieces and at the same time to form
the pile. We employ so termed needles which pass through the reed spaces in
conjunction with an endless band or a reciprocating or vibrating knife which works
in or partly in a race formed by coinciding slots in the front ends of the said needles.
The said needles consist of flat metal strips of a breadth suitably proportionate to the
desired length of pile. The front ends of the needles pass through the reed spaces
and project over the sley so that they become woven into the fabric. In the vertical
front end of each needle a horizontal slot or groove formed and the slots in all the
needles coinciding from end to end of the series constitute a race for the cutting
appliance. The said needles maintain the two pieces or parts of the fabric at an
uniform distance apart from selvedge to selvedge during the weaving and until the
two pieces are separated by severance the cutting edge of the band or knife entering
so far into the said race as that the severance of the pile threads is effected before the
fabric passes the ends of the needles. The position of the race in the vertical depth
of the series of needles determines the point of severance of the pile threads so that
supposing each slot to be centrally situated in the vertical end of the needle the pile
threads will be severed midway between the two pieces uniformily across the fabric.
The rear ends of the needles pass through the shed to a needle bar to which the said
ends of the needles are hinged so that the front ends of the needles are free to move
vertically to accomodate themselves to the position or movements of the fabric. The
rear ends of the needles may enter slits in the said needle bar or they may be

page_text: separated by washers or be otherwise suitably connected with the bar so long as the
front ends have the aforesaid freedom of movement. The said needle bar is moveable
or fixed as preferred. In the former case we mount the bar upon vibrating levers or
upon a swing frame or mount the said bar to slide so that a slight to and fro movement
can be imparted to it in order that it may move forward with the fabric and be
returned to withdraw the needles the required distance after each pick or at suitable
intervals. We prefer to employ an endless cutting band having a serrated or waved
cutting edge. We may employ revolving grinders or other suitable sharpeners to
act upon the cutting edge of the band without removal of the same from the loom.
When weaving fabrics which are to be severed in the direction of their length we
employ a vertically reciprocating knife or saw or two or more such appliances as
required.
As the woven fabric passes to the breast beam it comes within the range of action
of the said knife or saw or knives or saws and is thereby divided. To feed forward
the pile warps at the varying, rates rendered necessary we employ sets of rollers the
rollers in each set being geared together so as to have the same surface speed. Each
warp passes around and between the rollers in a set so as to have a large surface
contact the rollers being preferably covered with cloth or other suitably elastic
material. The rollers are actuated for each pick by means of a revolving wheel or
barrel which is provided with tapets or wipers varying in projection to suit the
requirements and which act upon a vibrating lever which carries a pawl which engages
with a ratchet wheel upon the shaft of one of the rollers in a set or which is suitably
connected with one of the said rollers.
Our invention is adapted for use in the production of either plain or fancy striped
checked or figured goods.

page_text: Apparatus Employed therein.
We FRIEDRICH HERMANN WILKE of Bradford in the County of York, Gentleman,
and GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of the same place, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this Invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying drawings :—
1
Our Invention relates to the manufacture of velvets plushes and other pile fabrics
and particularly to the method of production whereby two pieces are woven at once
face to face the two pieces being united by the pile warp which is cominon to both
pieces and which is severed to separate the two pieces and at the same time to form
the pile. We employ so termed needles which pass through the reed spaces in
conjunction with an endless band or a reciprocating or vibrating knife which works
in or partly in a race formed by coinciding slots in the front ends of the said needles.
When weaving fabrics which are to be severed in the direction of their length we
employ a vertically reciprocating knife or saw or two or more such appliances as
required. As the woven fabric passes to the breast beams it comes within the range
of action of the said knife or saw or knives or saws and is thereby divided.
Our Invention will be most clearly understood when described with reference to the
accompanying drawings which illustrate the parts which we apply to a loon of
ordinary construction so much only of the loom appearing in the drawings as is
necessary to be shown to properly illustrate our invention.
In the said drawings Fig. 1 is a diagram illustrative of our method of weaving and
cutting pile fabrics.
Fig. 2 contains parts which appear drawn to a smaller scale in Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 represents a Front Elevation of the loom and principally illustrates our
method of applying the cutting apparatus.
Fig. 4 is a plan view of the parts represented in Fig. 3.
In Figs. 1 and 2 a represents one of the aforesaid needles which pass through the
reed b. The front end portion of a needle is represented about the full size by Fig. 5.
As the view in Figs. 1 and 2 is taken on a vertical plane only one needle shows in the
drawing but it will be understood that there is a separate needle for each race in the
fabric. The rear ends of the needles are secured to, a needle bar c. Any suitable
means may be employed to connect the needles with this bar. In the example the
needles are notched and a rib on the bar enters the notches in the needles. The needles
pass through a comb d which keeps them at the correct distance apart and a clamp e
presses the needle ends firmly on to the bar.
The said needles consist of flat metal strips of a breadth suitably proportionate to
the desired length of pile. The front ends of the needles pass through the reed spaces
In the
and project over the sley board so that they become woven into the fabric.

page_text: vertical front end of each needle a horizontal slot or groove is formed as seen in
Fig. 5 and the slots in all the needles coinciding from end to end of the series
constitute a race for the cutting band or appliance. The warps from the warp beams
are so lifted and lowered by the heald or Jacquard harness as that two ground
fabrics are woven one above and the other below the needles and the pile warps are
woven into both of these fabrics crossing between the needles alternately up and
down from one fabric to the other the needles becoming woven into the combined
fabric as aforesaid. The said needles maintain the two pieces or parts of the fabrio
at an uniform distance apart from selvage to selvage during the weaving and until the
two pieces are separated by severance. As the cloth is beaten up by the reed during
the process of weaving it is gradually pushed along the needles until it leaves the ends
of the needles but before this takes place the two fabrics are separated.
An endless steel band f is mounted upon two pullies g. g. A portion of one of
these pullies is seen in Figs. 1 and 2, but they are shown most clearly in Figs. 3
and 4.
These pullies are fixed upon the ends of horizontal shafts h h¹ which are mounted
to revolve in bearings which are carried by the framing of the loom and are adjustable
thereon by means of screws i in order that the tension of the endless band may be
regulated. For this purpose it would be sufficient if the bearings of the shaft h¹ were
alone adjustable. The shaft h is driven by bevel wheels kand the wheel k is
connected by spur gearing m. n with the tappet shaft o so that as the latter revolves
the pullies g are rotated and as a consequence the steel band is caused to travel
rapidly in a direction parallel with the reed of the loom.
The front edge of the hand enters the race constituted by the coinciding slots in the
ends of the needles as aforesaid. The said front edge of the blade is sharpened so as
to act as a knife and is either straight or serrated. In practice we have found the
waved form of edge shown in Fig. 6 to be suitable. As the cloth is beaten up the
pile warp which crosses between the needles as aforesaid is pushed into contact with
the rapidly moving cutting edge of the band which enters so far into the said race as
that the severance of the pile threads is effected before the fabric leaves the ends of
the needles. The position of the race in the vertical depth of the series of needles
determines the point of severance of the pile threads so that supposing each slot to be
centrally situated in the vertical end of the needle the pile threads will be severed
midway between the two pieces uniformily across the fabric. This severance or
division of the combined fabric into two pieces being effected before the fabric leaves
the needles ensures that the two pieces shall be severed by a straight even cut so that
the pile formed by the cutting shall be of uniform length from selvage to selvage.
The separated pieces are taken up by means of breast beams or rollers p. p which
are actuated by means of right and left hand worms q. q upon a vertical shaft r. Any
other suitable means for taking up the two pieces of woven fabric may be employed.
We may employ revolving grinders or other suitable sharpeners to act upon the
cutting edge of the band without removal of the same from the loom. In Fig. 3 a
sharpening appliances is carried by a bracket s' and acts upon the edge of the band
to keep it sharp. If preferred the knife sharpener may be carried by a part which is
fitted to slide or move so that the sharpener may be brought into action at intervals
either by the hand of the operator or by the action of parts which would receive
motion from some part of the loom. In place of the endless cutting band we might
employ a straight knife which would be vibrated or reciprocated to and fro in a
direction parallel with the reed. If considered to be advisable we may impart a slight
movement to the needle bar c.
In such a case we should mount the bar upon vibrating levers or upon a swing
frame or mount the said bar to slide so that a slight to and fro movement could be
imparted to it in order that it might move forward with the fabric and be returned to
withdraw the needles the required distance after each pick or at suitable intervals.
Means for severing the woven fabrics in the direction of their lengths are shown in
Figs. 3 and 4 wherein t is a sharp vertical knife which is secured to a reciprocating
bar u which is jointed by its lower end to a rocking lever v which is acted upon by

page_text: an excentric or a cam w which is fixed upon the tappet shaft o the action of the said
excentric or cam imparting through the lever va vertical up and down movement to
the knife t.
Before the woven fabric reaches the taking up rollers it comes in contact with the
edge of the knife and is severed or slit thereby.
When it is required that each of the two fabrics shall be severed into more than
two pieces by two or more longitudinal cuts we employ as many vertical knives as
may be required. We do not confine ourselves to the means for imparting movement
to the knife t so long as it receives a suitable vertical movement. Our Invention is
adapted for use in the production of either plain or fancy striped checked or figured
goods.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is.
(1) In a loom for weaving double pile fabrics an endless travelling band knife
mounted on pulleys and severing the connecting pile as the woven fabric passes to
the breast beams or taking up rollers substantially as set forth and indicated.
(2) The endless steel travelling band having a waved cutting edge which is
sharpened to act as a knife applied substantially as and for the purpose set forth and
indicated.
(3) In a loom for weaving double pile fabrics the herein termed needles passing
through the reed spaces and woven in between the two ground fabrics the said needles
keeping the said fabrics parallel and at an uniform distance apart and controlling the
action of the cutting knife substantially as set forth and indicated.
(4) In a loom for weaving double pile fabrics the needles woven in between the
two ground fabrics and slotted at their free or front ends so as to form a race into
which enters the cutting edge of a travelling or reciprocating cutting band or knife
substantially as and for the purpose set forth and indicated.
(5) The combination of the needles a and the endless band or knife f formed
mounted arranged and acting substantially as and for the purposes set forth and
indicated.
(6) The vertically acting knife or knives for severing the fabric longitudinally as it
passes to the breast beams or taking up rollers arranged and actuated substantially as
set forth and indicated.
(7) The combination of the travelling endless knife or band with the sharpening
appliance or apparatus.