Improvements in the Manufacture of Table Linen and other similar Fabrics.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Dec., 1891-Accepted, 13th Feb., 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Table Linen and other similar
Fabrics.
.
I JOHN ALFRED BROWN of Darcey Lever near Bolton in the County of,
Lancaster Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :—
The object of this invention is to produce an ornamental effect by way of border
on linen table cloths, tray cloths, serviettes, d'oyleys, pillow. shams, and other
similar fabrics by the production during the process of weaving of border stripes or
lines having the appearance of open lace or insertion.
I am aware that an attempt has hitherto been made in small articles such as
d'oyleys &c. to produce a similar effect by hand by drawing out a number of threads
and working the cross threads together with a needle and thread but this is a tedious
and expensive process and could only be applied to small articles on account of the
difficulty of drawing out the threads when of great length.
According to my invention I produce this open or lace like border in the loom
during the process of weaving by a combination of plain or figure weaving with
what is known as leno or gauze weaving, using in the loom what are known as
"doup healds" or "doups" and "vibrator" for the purpose of producing the open or
leno work both for the selvedge borders and also for the cross borders.
Plain linen cloth with open or lace work borders of this nature may be woven in
the ordinary loom with dobby machine, with the addition of doup healds and
vibrator for weaving the leno or gauze strips for the borders, the "doups" for the
selvedge or lougitudinal borders being worked continuously, and those for the cross
borders only worked at intervals where the cross borders are required; but for
figured or damask linen fabrics the cloth must be woven in a Jacquard loom, the
"doups" being formed in the harness and worked by preference by a separate
Jacquard machine with which the loom must be provided for the purpose of making
the gauze or open work borders.
"
The method of drawing in the warp threads through the reed and through the
doups" and the method of "treading" the latter so as to cross the warp threads
at intervals in such a manner as to produce the open or lace-like border required
will be well understood by any practical weaver conversant with gauze weaving
and it will be evident that by alternating plain or figure weaving with gauze or leno
weaving in stripes of the same or various widths a variety of more or less complicated
and pleasing effects can be produced without departing from the principal distinctive
feature of my invention.
In some cases we propose to work these open stripes in the loom by leaving open
spaces in the warp that is to say, leave out a certain number of warp ends between
the groups of leno threads, across which spaces only the weft passes, and after
weaving the fabric a variety of pleasing effects may be produced by working these
weft threads together by hand.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
First. The improvements in the manufacture of table linen and other similar
fabrics with border stripes or lines having the appearance of open lace or insertion
by the combination in the loom of "doup healds or "doups" and vibrator with
the ordinary appliances for plain or damask weaving substantially as hereinbefore
described

page_text: Secondly. I claim as a new manufacture table cloths, tray cloths, serviettes,
d'oyleys and other similar fabrics with open or lace work border stripes or lines
woven in the loom by the combination of plain or damask weaving with gauze or
leno weaving substantially as herein before described.
Dated this 30th day of December 1891.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicant.