IMPROVEMENTS IN APPA- BATUS FOR MEASURING THE HUMAN FIGURE FOR GARMENTS.
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTER'S PATENT to Edward Eastman, of Central Street, Saint Luke's, in
the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPA-
BATUS FOR MEASURING THE HUMAN FIGURE FOR GARMENTS.".
Sealed the I'st December 1865; and dated the 3rd June 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Eastman at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
3rd June 1865.
I, EDWARD EASTMAN, of Central Street, Saint Luke's, in the County of
Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN APPARATUS FOR MEASURING THE HUMAN FIGURE, FOR GARMENTS," to be
as follows:-
This Invention relates to certain improvements in apparatus to be used by
tailors, dressmakers, and others in measuring the human figure for garments.
The apparatus consists of a standard on a foot, at the upper part of which is
set an adjustable or sliding rest of a semicircular form for the head and neck

page_text: of the person to be measured to rest against; beneath this rest a slotted bar
is arranged on the vertical standard about the level of the shoulders. The
bar may be raised or lowered and fixed by a set screw to the requisite height;
it is provided with a scale or measure and with a measuring tape, which may
be brought to various parts of the body to take measures for garments. A
similar measuring bar and tape is arranged lower down for measuring the
lower parts of the body. To assist in measuring the trowsers a rod is set on
the vertical standard by means of a ring and set screw; this rod projects from
the front of the standard, and the person to be measured for trowsers places
his legs across the rod, which being elevated as far as necessary the measure
is indicated by a scale on the vertical standard.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Edward Eastman in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
2nd December 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
EASTMAN, of Central Street, Saint Luke's, in the County of Middlesex, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Third day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Edward Eastman, Her special licence that I, the said Edward
Eastman, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Edward Eastman, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN APPARATUS FOR MEASURING THE HUMAN FIGURE FOR GARMENTS," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Edward Eastman, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office

page_text: WICHI DIA Carona ROOS CAL ABG
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Eastman, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This Invention relates to certain improvements in apparatus to be used by
tailors, dressmakers, and others in measuring the human figure for garments,
which I term "the patent form guage."
In order that my said Invention may be completely understood, I proceed
to describe the same with reference to the accompanying Drawings.
At
a represents a foundation, on which is set a vertical standard b, strengthened
by stays c, c.
At a level of about 30 inches above the foundation the hori-
zontal bar d is adjusted. This bar slides along the standard 6 by means of a
slotted guide affixed to it; it carries at e a horizontal sliding guage for the
purpose of measuring the width of the leg. The centre of the horizontal bar
is provided with a hinged arm g, about 20 inches long, rising and falling in
front of the apparatus, and shewn in plan view, Fig. 2. The slide or guage g¹
is for the measure of the front of the leg, and the arm itself is for indicating
the height of the fork of the trowsers; the arm has a scale marked thereon
up to about 18 inches. About 41 inches from the foundation there is placed
a projecting slide or guage (shewn in plan, Fig. 3) for the purpose of
indicating the hollow of the waist, giving the hollow of the natural waist.
about 50 inches, there is placed on the standard a bar corresponding to the
bar d, the level of which is of course adjustable to the height of the wearer ;
this bar carries the guage h to indicate the width of the back. i is one of two
sliding guages to shew the armpit and width of the arm; these guages are
shewn in plan, Fig. 4, where i, i, are the two sliding guages.
slide a tape is to be hung, which being brought to the centre
back of the neck will denote the measurement required: The other slide
gives the bent position of the back of the arm or shoulder blade. At about
60 inches a vertical slide is placed, carrying a horizontal slide similar to the
slide Fig. 8, for the purpose of measuring the hollow of the neck and round
of the back or upright position of the person; from this slide a measuring
tape is suspended, say of about 50 inches in length, for indicating the entire
length of the coat, the standard then continues to, say, about six feet in height.
At the back of the standard, commencing at a level of, say, 18 inches above the
foundation, a scale is cut on a brass or other index, commencing at 19 inches
From the front
of the waist or

page_text: up to about 54 inches for the adjustment of the horizontal bars and guages
described; also at the back of the two horizontal bars there are scales, each
commencing from the centre from 1 inch to 9 inches for the respective
measurements, and on the surfaces of the neck and waist measurements or
slides there are similar indices to denote their respective measurements. The
guage e slides along an index on the hinged fork or arm; this index is from
1 inch to 18 inches in length. In lieu of one standard, in some cases I
employ three standards, and cause the horizontal bars to slide by means of
slots or guides at each end on to the two rear standards, bringing the front of
the arm guage carrier or bar on to the front standard. This arrangement
causes a more steady or firm apparatus, but is the same in principle to that
first described. As a modification of the apparatus or part thereof I form a
portable measuring apparatus for coats, vests, and trowsers, which may be
packed in a very small compass and carried in a case or otherwise in the
pocket. It consists of a modification of the upper part of the apparatus for
measuring a coat or other upper garment, shewn in Fig. 5, where a repre-
sents the counterpart of the horizontal bar previously described for measuring
the back and arms. The traveller and a vertical guage z are here shewn for
the purpose of measuring the neck, which guage is also applicable to the
treble standard apparatus. The guage or index h for measuring the width of
the back is hinged so as to fall down flat upon the horizontal bar. The
sliding guages i, i, are also hinged so as to fall down upon the projecting
guage h'; the guage z being removed the entire apparatus may be folded up
in a small compass as described. The first apparatus is made use of. by the
person standing on the foundation and by the adjustment of the various
measures, but the last apparatus is applied by the hand to the person to be
measured for a coat or waistcoat. The measuring tapes previously described
are to be applied to this apparatus for the measurement of the coat or vest or
other upper garment and trowsers; for measuring the latter the guage
should be removed. By these apparatus not only are the measures denoted
by inches, but the actual form of the body is given.
2
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, I would remark in conclusion that I do
not limit myself to the precise details and configuration of parts I have
expressed and shewn, as the same may obviously be varied or modified without
in any degree departing from the principles on which my Invention is based;
but what I claim and desire to be secured to me by the herein in part recited
Letters Patent is, the general arrangement and combination of parts sub-

page_text: stantially as expressed and shewn, constituting the "Improvements in
Apparatus for Measuring the Human Figure for Garments " according to the
title hereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Eastman, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this First day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
ALEX³. PRINCE,
Office for Patents,
4, Trafalgar Square,
Charing Cross.
EDWARD EASTMAN. (Ls.)