DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION
Year: 1876

page_text: No. 5064
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION as proposed to be
entered by John Dendy and John Russell Beard, both of Manchester, in the
County of Lancaster, Manufacturers, pursuant to the Statutes in that case made
and provided.
WHEREAS Her Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters Patent under the Great
Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, bearing date, at
Westminster, the Thirtieth day of December 1876, in the Fortieth year of Her
reign, did give and grant unto the said Thomas Aldred, his executors, ad-
ministrators, and assigns, the sole privilege for the term of fourteen years thence
next ensuing of making, using, exercising, and vending, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man,
the said Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR FANCY WEAVING :"
And whereas, in pursuance of a proviso in the said Letters Patent contained, the
said Thomas Aldred did within six calendar months next after the date of the said
Letters Letters Patent cause a Specification or instrument in writing under his hand
and seal, purporting to describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, to be duly filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office:
And whereas the said Letters Patent were afterwards assigned to and became
and now are vested in us, the said John Dendy and John Russell Beard:
the
And whereas since the filing of the said Specification, we, the said John Dendy
and John Russell Beard, have discovered that A Specification may be objected to
on the ground that the Invention is not defined with sufficient precision therein :
And whereas we are desirous of defining the said Invention intended to be
claimed under the said Letters Patent with greater precision, in consequence thereof
we disclaim and alter parts of the Specification of the said Letters Patent in manner
following, that is to say:

page_text: "
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In the Specification, referring to the Queen's Printers' copy thereof, at page 2,
line 12, after the word ". more we insert the words " varieties of," and in the same
line after the word "one" we insert the word "weaving;" at page 2, line 19, after
the word "with" we insert the words "the ordinary doup" at page 2, line 33, wo
omit the words "by these means;" at page 2, line 47, at the end of the line after
the reference letter ""we insert the words "that actuate the slip healds;" at
page 3, line 5, we omit the full stop after the word "harness;" at page 3, line 8,
after the word' warp we insert the words "intended for the leno;" at page 3,
line 9, for "and" we substitute "as well as," and in the same line for "a
we sub-
stitute "its" at page 3, line 10, after the word "
warp we insert the words
constituting the ground threads in the ordinary way;" at page 10, line 11, for
the comma after the word "mails we substitute a semi-colon, and in the same line
after the word "ends" we insert the words "for the leno above referred to;" at
pag 3, line 15, we insert after the word "couplings" the words "which are on the
one side of the ground threads," and we omit the word "so;" in the same line we
omit the words "next end of;" at page 3, we omit line 16, and substitute for it the
following words :-" Mails of the brocade harness above mentioned, which work the
leno threads on the other sides of the ground threads;" at page 3, line 18, before
the word "warp" we insert "leno;" at page 3, line 28, at the end of the line we
insert the word "are;" at page 3, line 29, after "tensors we insert "and to the
jacquard apparatus i, as shewn in the Drawings;" at page 3, line 57, at the end of
the line we insert "used as described;" and in page 4, line 3, we insert after
"machine" the same words " used as described;" we omit the third claiming clause
in lines 4, 5, and 6 of page 4.
"
And the said Specification when so altered and amended will read as follows
(omitting here the formal Preamble of the Specification), that is to say:—
This Invention relates to a special style of fancy weaving, in which three or more
varieties of fabrics are produced in one weaving operation, viz., plain, leno, float or
twill in geometrical or other pattern or figures, the object being to simplify the
construction of fancy goods' looms, to reduce friction and wear, and obviate the
irregular tension on the warp caused by the unsteady working of the present
appliances.
For the several portions of the fabric I use the ordinary single or double lift
jacquard machine, with comber board, couplings, mails, and the ordinary suspended
weights.
For the leno portion I dispense with the ordinary doup healds, vibrators, and
the suspended weights or lingoes, and substitute for them fine wire mails or
couplings, ordinary slip healds, and elastic cords or tensors. I place horizontally at
the back of the harness a reed corresponding in count to the fabric to be woven,
through the dents of which reed are passed cords connected with and attached to
the before-mentioned elastic cords or tensors, and these cords correspond with or
exceed in number, the fine wire couplings which are placed in front, thus securing a
uniform tension on the leno warp.
The clastic cords or tensors are fastened in a frame at the bottom of the loom,
and are adjusted and regulated by screw and nuts, so that the tension can be put on
or taken off as required in cross weaving, thereby obtaining the advantage of
weaving light or heavy cloth as required.
The leno portion of the warp is drawn in singly through the mails of the
couplings attached to the elastic cords or tensors, and also drawn in singly through
a portion of the harness of the brocade or other pattern with two or more ends in a
group through the slip healds. The warp is slackened when crossing for the leno
portion of the cloth.
I draw two or more ends in the dent, the alternate or other dents being empty
or all full, and I cross and twist any number of threads to right or left, thus
forming the leno, and separating the threads when required for the other part of
the cloth.
These improvements will be clearly understood by referring to the Figures and

page_text: Letters on the accompanying Sheet of Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a vertical section
representing my improvements applied to looms used for fancy weaving; and Figs. 2
and 3 are detached views of parts of the same; and in Fig. 1, a represents the
framework of the loom; b, the warp beam; c, the buck bearer; d, the latho ; c, the
breast beam; f, the cloth pin; g, the sand or friction roller; and h, the crank shaft.
The single or double lift jacquard machine placed at i has the ordinary sets of
hooks, the front rows of which are attached to and work the wire couplings, that
actuate the slip healds, Figs. 1, 2, and 3, the middle rows being attached to the
cords, working the brocade portion of the harness, and the back rows are attached
to aud work the cords m connected with the mails of the elastic cords or
tensors n fastened to a frame o, which is adjusted or regulated at will by a
thumb nut and screw p at each end of the frame.
I employ only one warp beain b for the whole warp, and for the leno portion of
the fabric I dispense entirely with vibrators, compensating shafts, levers, and the
ordinary heavy lingoes and weights.
I draw in the warp through the reed q, two or more ends in a dent, and through
the ordinary jacquard harness I draw it in singly, that is, cach thread is passed
singly through its own mail, so that plain, figured, or fluted offects can be produced
in the ordinary way, or at one and the same operation, if required.
tho
&
I also draw in half of the warp intended for the leno, singly through the mails
attached to the elastic cords or tensors n, as well as through its portion of tho
brocado harness, and the other half of the warp constituting the ground threads in the
ordinary way is drawn through the other portion of the brocade harness, this portion
working freely between the other mails; the ends for the leno above referred to
passing through the mails of the elastic cords or tensors, and also through the slip
healds of the fine wire coupling &, one or more in a group, so that when required
to make leno, I lift one or more of the elastic cords or tensors, and one or more of
the corresponding wire couplings, which are on the one side of the ground threads
and reverse the crossing from right to left by lifting the mails of the brocade harness
above mentioned, which work the leno throads on the other sides of the ground
threads.
The slip healds are connected to a bottom shafts, which is lifted at every pick
of the loom for the purpose of casing the leno warp, which is again tightened by
springs t, connected to the shafts, and fastened to a bar or rod u at the bottom of
the loom, the groups of threads being drawn in through these slip healds as in
ordinary cross weaving, so that any number of leno threads may be crossed to right
or
...J
▲ and left of ground thread next to it, so as to form the leno or open lace fabric.
The fine wire couplings through which the double or single loops of the slip
healds are passed are used instead of the ordinary mails, thus saving any hanging
on of the leno threads and so prevent the breakage of the warp.
In order that the leno threads may always be kept at a proper stato of tension,
whother crossing or not, I pass them at the back of the ordinary harness through
a set of mails attached to the cords m, which pass through the horizontal roed v,
and are connected to the elastic cords or tensors n and to the jacquard apparatus i,
as shewn in the Drawings, thus giving direct action and doing away with cranks,
levers, compensating shafts, and heavy weights or lingoes.
The advantages of my improvements consist,-
First. In the direct action of the elastic cords or tensors, regulated at will by a
nut or thumbscrew for easing the warp when crossing for the leno.
Secondly. By using fine wire couplings I give more freedom to the warp, as it
only rests on one transverse bar after leaving the back rest or bearer, thereby
allowing finer yards to be woven.
Thirdly. A great saving in the cost of gaiting, as a harness already tied up for
other fabrics can be altered with little expense to leno or lace fabrics.
Fourthly. I only use one comber board for the brocade and leno portions of the
cloth, and employ a reed for passing the thread bands through, which are connected

page_text: to the couplings of the elastic cords or tensors, which plan is much simpler than a
comber board, I thereby save time and expense in " gaiting" as theordinary
weaving reed may be used.
Fifthly. The elastic cords or tensors are steadier than heavy lingoes, as there is
no swaying to and fro, which swaying tends to break and chafe the yarns.
Sixthly. For light or fine goods, pressure can be taken off the yarn by a nut or
thumbscrew, and for heavy or coarse yarns pressure can be put on, thus enabling
the weaver to weave all counts of yarn at will.
This Invention dispenses with cranks, levers, and compensating shafts, which
means that 50 to 100 of these are done away with according to the fabric intended
to be woven; it also does away with all cramping of yarn, and enables ine to use
less links, cranks, and tackles. I also get one uniform tension on the yarn, so that
I can weave silk, cotton, linen, or woollen with the least possible amount of labour
and wear and tear.
Having now described the nature and particulars of my said Invention, I desire
it to be understood that I claim,―
First. The fine wire couplings in connection with the slip healds, used as
described.
Secondly. The clastic cords or tensors connected at one end to an adjustable
frame, and at their other ends to cords passing through a horizontal reed to the
hooks of the jacquard machine, used as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Aldred, have hereunto act my hand
and seal, the Eighth day of June, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-seven.
I hereby grant my Fiat, giving leave to the above-named John Dendy and
John Russell Beard, as Assignees of John Aldred, to file in the Great Seal Patent
Office, with the Specification to which the saine relates, the above written Disclaimer
and Memorandum of Alteration.
1T
Temple, 8th February 1878.

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Aldred, Weaving Manager to Messrs. Dendy and
Beard, of Macclesfield, in the County of Chester, Manufacturers, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR FANCY WEAVING."
Sealed the 29th June 1877, and dated the 30th December 1870.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Aldred at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 30th December 1876.
THOMAS ALDRED, Weaving Manager to Messrs. Dendy and Beard, of Macclesfield,
in the County of Chester, Manufacturers. IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR FANCY
WEAVING."
"
This improved method and Invention relates to a special style of fancy weaving,
by which three or more fabrics may be produced by one operation, viz., plain, lono,
float, or twill in geometrical or other patterns or figures; it also reduces friction and
wear, and so simplifies the construction of fancy goods' looms, and obviates the
irregular tension on the warp caused by unsteady working of present appliances.
For the brocade portion of the fabric I use the ordinary jacquard machine with
comber board couplings, mails, and lingoes.
For the leno portion I dispense with doup healds and vibrators, and substitute
for them fine wire couplings, ordinary slip healds, and elastic cords or tensors. I
place at the back of the harness a reed corresponding in count to the fabric to bo
woven, through which are passed couplings connected with and attached to the
elastic cords or tensors mentioned above, and these couplings correspond with or
exceed in number the fine wire couplings which are placed in front, thus securing a
uniform tension on the leno warp.
The elastic cords or tensors are fastened into a frame at the bottom of the loom,
and 1 adjust and regulate them by an attached screw or nut, and by this means I
am enabled to put on or take off tension as required in cross weaving, thus giving
me the advantage of weaving light or heavy cloth at will.
The leno portion of the warp is drawn in singly through the mails of the couplings
attached to the elastic cords or tensors; also it is drawn singly through a portion of
the brocade harness with two or more ends in a group through the slip healds. By
these means the warp is slackened when crossing for the leno portion of the cloth,

page_text: I draw in the warp two or more ends in the dent, the alternate or other dents
being empty or all full, and I cross and twist auy number of threads to right or left,
thus forming the leno and separating the thread when required for the other part
of the cloth.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Thomas Aldred in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 30th June
1877.
THOMAS ALDRED, Weaving Manager to Messrs. Dendy and Beard, of Macclesfield,
in the County of Chester, Manufacturers. " IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR FANCY
WEAVING."
This Invention relates to a special style of fancy weaving, in which three or
more fabrics are produced in one operation, viz., plain, leno, float, or twill in
geometrical or other pattern or figures, the object being to simplify the construction
of fancy goods' looms, to reduce friction and wear, and obviate the irregular tension
on the warp caused by the unsteady working of the present appliances.
For the several portions of the fabric I use the ordinary single or double lift
jacquard machine, with comber board couplings, mails, and the ordinary suspended
weights.
For the leno portion I dispense with healds, vibrators, and the suspended weights
or lingoes, and substitute for them fine wire mails or couplings, ordinary slip healds,
and elastic cords or tensors. I place horizontally at the back of the harness a reed
corresponding in count to the fabric to be woven, through the dents of which reed
are passed cords connected with and attached to the before-mentioned elastic cords
or tensors, and these cords correspond with or exceed in number the fine wire coup-
lings which are placed in front, thus securing a uniform tension on the leno warp.
The elastic cords or tensors are fastened in a frame at the bottom of the loom, and
are adjusted and regulated by screws and nuts, so that the tension can be put on
or taken off as required in cross weaving, thereby obtaining the advantage of weaving
light or heavy cloth as required.
The leno portion of the warp is drawn in singly through the mails of the couplings
attached to the elastic cords or tensors, and also drawn in singly through a portion
of the harness of the brocade or other pattern with two or more ends in a group
through the slip healds. By these means the warp is slackened when crossing for
the leno portion of the cloth.
I draw two or more ends in the dent, the alternate or other dents being empty
or all full, and I cross and twist any number of threads to right or left, thus
forming the leno, and separating the threads when required for the other part of the
cloth.
These improvements will be clearly understood by referring to the figures and
letters on the accompanying Sheet of Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a vertical section
representing my improvements applied to looms used for fancy weaving; and
Figs. 2 and 3 are detached views of parts of the same; and in Fig. 1a represents
the framework of the loom; b, the warp beam; c, the back bearer; d, the lathe; e,
the breast beam; f, the cloth beam; g, the sand or friction roller; and h, the crank
shaft.
The single or double lift jacquard machine placed at i has the ordinary sets of
hooks, the front rows of which are attached to and work the wire couplings ko,
Figs. 1, 2, and 3, the middle rows being attached to the cords / working the brocade
portion of the harness, and the back rows are attached to and work the cords m
connected with the mails of the elastic cords or tensors n fastened to a frame o,
which is adjusted or regulated at will by a thumb nut and screw p at each end of
the frame,

page_text: I employ only one warp beam o for the whole warp, and for the leno portion of
the fabric I dispense entirely with vibrators, compensating shafts, levers, and the
ordinary heavy lingoes and weights.
I draw in the warp through the reed q, two or more ends in a dent, and through
the ordinary jacquard harness. I draw it in singly, that is, each thread is passed
singly through its own mail, so that plain, figured, or floated effects can be produced
in the ordinary way, or at one and the same operation if required.
I also draw in the half of the warp singly through the mails attached to the
elastic cords or tensors n, and through a portion of the brocade harness, and the
other half of the warp is drawn through the other portion of the brocade harness,
this portion working freely between the other mails, the ends passing through the
mails of the elastic cords or tensors, and also through the slip healds r of the fine wire
couplings, one or more in a group, so that when required to make leno I lift one
or more of the elastic cords or tensors and one or more of the corresponding wire
couplings, and so reverse the crossing from right to left by lifting the next end or
ends which pass freely between the mails.
The slip healds are connected to a bottom shaft s, which is lifted at every pick
of the loom for the purpose of casing the warp, which is again tightened by springs t
connected to the shaft 8, and fastened to a bar or rod u at the bottom of the loom,
the groups of threads being drawn in through these slip healds as in ordinary cross
weaving, so that any number of leno threads may be crossed to right or left of
ground thread next to it, so as to form the leno or open lace fabric.
The fine wire couplings through which the double or single loops of the slip
healds are passed are used instead of the ordinary mails, thus saving any hanging
on of the leno threads, and so prevent the breakage of the warp.
In order that the leno threads may always be kept at a proper state of tension,
whether crossing or not, I pass them at the back of the ordinary harness through a
set of mails attached to the cords m, which pass through the horizontal reed v, and
connected to the elastic cords or tensors n, thus giving direct action, and doing
away with cranks, levers, compensating shafts, and heavy weights or lingoes.
The advantages of my improvements consist,
First. In the direct action of the elastic cords or tensors, regulated at will by a
nut or thumbscrew for easing the warp when crossing for the leno.
Secondly. By using fine wire couplings I give more freedom to the warp, as it
only rests on one transverse bar after leaving the back rest or bearer, thereby
allowing finer yarns to be woven.
Thirdly. A great saving in the cost of gaiting, as a harness already tied up for
other fabrics can be altered with little expense to leno or lace fabrics.
Fourthly. I only use one comber board for the brocade and leno portions of the
cloth, and employ a reed for passing the thread bands through, which are connected
to the couplings of the elastic cords or tensors, which plan is much simpler than a
comber board. I thereby save time and expense in "gaiting," as the ordinary
weaving reed may be used.
Fifthly. The elastic cords or tensors are steadier than heavy lingoes, as there is no
swaying to and fro, which swaying tends to break and chafe the yarns.
Sixthly. For light or fine goods pressure can be taken off the yarn by a nut or
thumbscrew, and for heavy or coarse yarns pressure can be put on, thus enabling
the weaver to weave all counts of yarns at will.
This Invention dispenses with cranks, levers, and compensating shafts, which
means that 50 to 100 of these are done away with, according to the fabric intended
to be woven; it also does away with all cramping of yarn, and enables me to use
less links, cranks, and tackles. I also get one uniform tension on the yarn, so that I
can weave silk, cotton, linen, or woollen with the least possible amount of labour
and wear and tear.
Having now described the nature and particulars of my said Invention I desire
it to be understood that I claim,-
First. The fine wire couplings in connection with the slip healds.

page_text: Secondly. The elastic cord or tensors connected at one end to an adjustable frame,
and at their other ends to cords passing through a horizontal reed to the hooks of
the jacquard machine.
And, Thirdly. The general arrangement of the loom for the purpose of simplifying
its construction, for reducing wear and tear, and for preventing irregular tension on
the warp and unsteadiness in working.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Aldred, have hereunto set my hand
and seal this Eighth day of June, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-seven.
Witness,
G. SEPTIMUS HUGHES,
Patent Agent,
Manchester.
THOMAS ALDRED. (L.S.)