A NEW METHOD OP WEAVING DIAPER AND DAMASK LINENS FOR TABLING AND OTHER PURPOSES; ALSO SOME KINDS OF FIGURED SILKS, COTTONS, AND WORSTEDS, WHERE THREE OR MORE WOOF SHOTS ARE NECESSARY BETWIXT EACH DRAUGHT, WITHOUT THE ASSISTANCE OF DRAWBOYS
Year: 1779

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CHEAPE, of the City of Edinburgh, Linen Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS His most Excellent Majesty King George the Third did,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
the Twenty-third day of November, in the twentieth year of His reign,
give and grant unto. me, the said William Cheape, His especial licence that
I, the said William Cheape, during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfull might use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales,
and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "A NEW METHOD
OP WEAVING DIAPER AND DAMASK LINENS FOR TABLING AND OTHER PURPOSES;
ALSO SOME KINDS OF FIGURED SILKS, COTTONS, AND WORSTEDS, WHERE THREE
OR MORE WOOF SHOTS ARE NECESSARY BETWIXT EACH DRAUGHT, WITHOUT THE
ASSISTANCE OF DRAWBOYS;" in which said Letters Patent there is contained a
provisoc obliging me, the said William Cheape, under my hand and seal, to
cause a particular description of the nature of my said Invention, and how the
same is to be performed, to be inrolled in His Majesty's High Court of
Chancery within four calander months after the date of the said recited
Letters Patent, as in and by the same (relation being thereunto had) may
more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said provisoe, I, the said
William Cheape, do hereby declare that my said New Method of Weaving
Diaper and Damask Linens for Tabling and other Purposes; also some Kinds
of Figured Silks, Cottons, and Worsteds, where Three or more Woof Shots
are necessary betwixt each Draught, without the Assistance of Drawboys, is
described in the manner following (that is to say):
It has for its first object the saving of drawboy's wages in weaving such kind

page_text: of goods; and that the manner of doing this, and the other operations after
mentioned, may be more fully understood, I have hereunto annexed a sketch o
a side view of a loom for weaving, after this new-invented method, upon the
scale of one inch to the foot, with reference numbers pointing out the sundry
parts thereof, and an index of the names imposed upon the said parts, and
the sundry purposes they serve in the operation of weaving in my said new-
invented method; and thus much being premised, the said saving is thus
performed and obtained:-The lessing side or face of the pullie table is placed
fronting the yarn beam, and the tail, side, or back of the said pullie table fronts
the breast beam. The lessing and tail cords are tyed, wooped, or fastened
together from seven to ten inches underneath and across the said pullie table
(as circumstances may require) in such manner as to make the lessing rows clear
and distinct from the pullie table to the harnis board. The tail cords stretched
betwixt the pullie table and back table comes right over the weaver's head when
at work on his loom, and the simples, one or more, with their lashes answerable
to the pattern to be woven, connect with the main taill in the manner afterwards
described; and the simple to be used by the weaver (for, altho' six or more may
be at the loom, he can use but one at a time) comes right down before him in
a perpendicular direction, and is tyed down to the under part of the two square
iron rods there placed, which are fixed or hung by their points four or five
feet above the loom, as the house may permitt, and reach down to the upper
part of the came; upon which iron rods an iron frame is placed, which moves
up and down, and upon this frame a wooden box is fixed containing a wooden
draw pin, the use of which is to seperate and bring down such taill cords as
are drawn by the weaver; and that part of said draw pin which runs across the
frame to answer this purpose is round, and the directing part which remains in
the box is square. This draw pin is moved backwards and forwards, as the
weaver's occasions require, by coupers and directing pullies. This iron frame
is hung by a cord to a couper and weight above it, and by another cord from it's
under part is tyed and fixed down to a cross bar, whereby it rises no higher upon
the rods than to it's certain and determined height, and moves downwards at the
weaver's pleasure. It has also a cord coming from it, with a handle upon its
end, within the weaver's reach. The length of this cord is proportioned to the
height the warp yarn is to be raised; and upon the right-hand rod there is
placed a moveable iron knotch, fixed at it's determined height by screws, and 3
the weaver, by means of the simple with it's lashes, having seperated those
cords which raise such parts of his warp yarn as are necessary for weaving
hat part of his figure or pattern which he is just going to weave, does, by the
elp of this iron frame box, draw pin, coupers, handle, and knotch, raise and
keep up the said parts of his warp yarn at the proper height until woven, and 4

page_text: in this manner he goes on to raise and lower such parts of his warp yarn as
his simple or simples directs untill the whole pattern is compleatly woven.
The next object of this new-invented method of weaving the said goods is
to put to or take from the looms the simples necessary for such kinds of work
in a manner more easy and expeditious than the present practice, without any
risque of damaging the mounting of the loom, and accquiring a power of
weaving patterns, which require six or more simples at the loom, with almost
the same ease to the weaver as if he were weaving where only one simple was
necessary, which is performed thus:-The simples being of a proper length
for the loom, has a short eye or loop made upon the end of each simple cord;
the imptaill is then tyed or wooped to the main taill just before the iron frame,
and as many simples as the pattern may require are, by means of their loops,
threaded upon the imptaill, which is brought under the upper roller, which
roller is supported by a stoop fixed in the table carriage; and each simple at
work is kept in it's proper place by it's stay cords, and the other simples not then
woven are drawn back upon the imptaill, and those woven are put upon the
back part of the imptail that reaches from the simple loops to the main taill,
with their loops in such position, by two wires across the imptaill, the one above
and the other below their said loops, so as to permit the imptail to play up and
down through them with ease and freedom. Another still more eligible
method is performed thus:-Take the back table, and in place of putting the
cords through it, make a loop for each taill cord, which fix with pins in the
same manner the taill cords are fixed in the other way, allowing the loops to
be one inch without the back table, and fix a brass wire hook of one inch and
eighth long upon the end of each tail cord. In the same manner the mailes
are fixed to the loping cords, and in place of putting the taill cords through the
back table, they are hooked on upon the said loops. The simples being made
a proper length for the loom, has, upon the end of each simple cord, a loop of
eight inches long; and if the pattern requires six or more simples, there are
threaded upon the main taill cords, by means of the hooks, and a stay for each,
containing an equal number of twined threads or cords as there are cords in the
simple, is putt upon a small pin in the manner a simple is put upon a simple
pin, and being placed ten or twelve inches above the simple is tyed to the top
of the loops, and being balanced and hung by a weight and pullies, serves
two purposes: the first is to keep the simple the weaver is then working
within its proper place; and the second is, all the simples are hung up by
heir said stays with a weight at the bottom of each simple. Those simples that
are used are hung up betwixt the working simple and the pullie table,
and those not used are hung up betwixt the working simple and the back

page_text: table at a proper height, and being thus kept in a streight perpendicular
direction, the cords of the main taill, by means of the long loops on the ends of
the simple cords, play through them with ease and freedom, although ten
simples were at the loom. The good effects hereby produced are those :-First,
many simples are taken from the loom or putt to it with little more trouble
than one simple, and without cutting away a single cord from the loom or
tying a single knott; whereas the present practice is, every simple used at a
loom must, when put to the loom, have every cord tyed to it's corresponding
tail cord, and when taken away, must in like manner be cutt from it.
Secondly, the weaver weaves with the same ease with many as with one simple
at his loom; the former necessity of overloading each simple with a vast
number of lashes when patterns were long, which obliged the use of strong
drawboys at high wages, and wearing out the cords in a short time by the great
friction, is hereby prevented. Thirdly, very few lashes, comparatively with the
former practice, being now required upon each simple, forwards the weaver's
And this method is
operations; the patterns are more perfectly executed.
equally applicable to the looms now in use for weaving the said goods with
drawboys as to those weaving without them after this new-invented method
of weaving said goods and looms, after this new-invented method, where
two men are employed upon weaving broad goods, are thereby enabled to
weave patterns distinct from each other, whereby coats of arms or other large
patterns can, by this means, be wove without any additional trouble to the
weavers.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Cheape, have hereunto sett my
hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of March, One thousand seve

page_text: 8
9.
10
11.
wwwwww
eam is fixed and runs in hon Sockets.
to raise or lower it at pleas
The Youm Beam and Screws which hangs it upon the Loom pork and serves
The Lay wherein the Reed or Comb is fixed wherewith the Weaver beak on his Wooff.
The pullie Table thorrow which the Taill Cords comes each Cord hus a seperate and distinct public in this Fable
whereon it cuns:-
The back Table which is full of holes serves as a Counter part to the Pullie Fable each Cird has a hole and then weight
thorrow other holes and fastned to pins in the one way and in the other way the Loops are fastened in the buch Fable and the
Fail Cords hooked upon these Loops with Brass hooks.
12. The Carriage or Railing whereon the Pullie Table and Back Table are placed supported and fixeds.
1.3. The Fail Cords which come thorow the Back Table and pullie Table under which they are hyed wooped in fastened to the
Lessing from 7 to 10 Inches under said Table.
5.
The Lessing which makes the communication betwixt the Quill Cords and Harnish Maites:
The Harnish Board thorrow which the Lessing Cordo come in Rous corresponding with the Rows of the public Fuble a Reed
or Comb fixed in the said Harnis or Harnish Boards with words sheched length ways and coming thourow Brown Spech
with holes in them serves to make the divisions and keep the Rows distinct.
6. The Brass Mails fixed to the under part of the Lessing Cords thorrow which the Warp of the Web comes and use sometimes
Brass Coper Iron Glass or Tin.
The Leads which are made of Lead and serve as weights are hung to the under part of the Brass Mailes.
The Web in the Loom whereon the weaver is at Work.
8.
9
The Came or Gears thorow which the Web comes which verves to make the Shed or opening in the Warp for the Thuile
0.
The ends of the Came Carriage whereby the Came or Gears are supported.
1.
The ends of the Coupers which saves to raise such parts of the Came as is necessary in making the Cloth.
The Cords which makes the Communication betwixt the Came and the Coupers.
The Ends of the Short and long Counter marches which regulate and direct the cords which form the communication turist
the Came and radles whereby the Weaver with his foott makes the Shed or opening for the Shutle in the Warpl
Yain.
The Simple which contains the same number of Cords as are in the Tail upon which simple bords the Lashes or
Lishes are placed each Lash being so many threads of twind serving to seperate such simple Cords as are necessary
for the Weaver to raise such parts of the Warp Youn as are required to make that part of the figure or pattern he is
then going to weave The other end of these Lashes run upon a bord or Gut bord which serves to keep them seperate
and distinct from each other.
The Imp Tuil which formes the communication betwixt the Simples and the Fail Cords
The Stay Cords of the Timple which serve to keep it in its proper place when at Work in two different ways the .
one goes towards the Lessing the other immediakly above the Simple .
The Sion pame whereon the Box and Draw pin is placed wherewith the Weaver draws up such parts of the Warp
Yarn to its proper hight as the figure or pattern requires being directed thereto by his Lashes and Simple.
The Square Iron Rods whereon this Frame moves upwards or downwards as the Operation of the Weaving,
requires.
The Ion Ratch which wns upon the right hand rod and is fixt at its proper hight upon that Rod with
Screws.
The handle upon the end of the Cord which pulls down the Iron pame whereby the wark yain is raised to
its proper hight and bring placed in the Ratch remains there until that part of the figure is
woven
A Sketch of the Iron Rods Frame Box Draw Pin Coupers and pullies that comand the said Draw Pin, and
Ratch as they appear when ponting the Weaver' or looking forwards from the back of the Loom - The Sketch of the
Loom being a vide view. The Simple is placed just before the Rods the under part of it being fastened to
at the bottom of the Rods which connect them together and is represented by the Red lince betwixt the
the Jon
Rod..
The Putties and the thinner of the