IMPROVEMENTS IN EPAULETS AND ORNAMENTAL WIRE FRINGES, AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL ARTICLES OR FABRICS
Year: 1839

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MOSES
POOLE, of the Patent Office, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of Middlesex, Gen-
tleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Let-
ters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at Westminster,
the Twenty-first day of February, in the second year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Moses.
Poole, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the
said Moses Poole, my exors, adññors, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Moses Poole, my exors, adññiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of years
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, the Inventiou
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN EPAULETS AND ORNAMENTAL WIRE FRINGES, AND OTHER
ORNAMENTAL ARTICLES OR FABRICS," communicated to me by a certain foreigner
residing abroad; in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I,
the said Moses Poole, shall cause a particular description of the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled
in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in
and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Moses Poole, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the
Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon,
that is to say:
The Invention relates, first, to the making of epaulets and the fringe of
metal, in such manner that the same may be cleaned with greater facility
and without injury to the fabric of the epaulets, as will be hereafter
described; secondly, the Invention relates to a mode of fabricating metallic
wire fringes for epaulets, and other purposes; and, thirdly, the Invention
relates to a mode of constructing fringes or fabrics applicable to various
purposes.
According to the practice heretofore resorted to in making epaulets, the same
have been constructed of twists, tassels, and other articles of the kind made
with metallic threads, either gold, silver, silver gilt or copper gilt, intermixed
with silk. Sometimes metallic thread alone is used, which thread had been
coiled on a mandril by means of a wheel, and thus formed into long flexible
tubes called purls; with these purls are made twist, the effect of which is
varied by the manner these purls are mixed and twisted, either by the adjunc-
tion of other threads of a brilliant or dead color, or of a greater size; but
whatever way the operation has been effected, silk or cotton or other fibrous
material have been used. The flexible nature of this tube and the
pressure of
the silk or other thread, prove detrimental to its solidity, and render it impos-
sible to clean the epaulet and restore to them the desired polish after they
have become tarnished; hence officers are put to much expence owing to the
short time even the best epaulets, made according to the usual system of lace
and embroidering manufacturers, will wear.
The first part of the present Invention has for its object so to construct
epaulets (excepting the lining) wholly of metal, rendering the various parts of
the epaulets capable of bearing the action of acids necessary for the cleaning
the surfaces of metals when tarnished; and in making epaulets, it is necessary
to manufacture them in such a manner that they may be sufficiently strong in
their make not to be liable to alteration in their shape and in the disposition
of the parts while undergoing the operation of cleaning; this point never could
be obtained by the usual lace work, which was not composed wholly of metal.
The wire applied to the purpose of making epaulets and other articles hitherto
executed in lace and braiding work was mixed with silk or cotton threads.
And I would here remark, that in making epaulets as well as fringes and

page_text: fabrics of wire, according to this Invention, there is to be no thread of silk,
cotton, flax, or other fibrous material which will be injured by the cleaning of
the epaulets by means of acid, and owing to making all the parts of metal, their.
solidity renders the parts capable of bearing any kind of cleaning hitherto used
for silver or gold, or copper gilt or silver gilt jewellery. The result obtained by
this Invention under this head consists in substituting a jewellery work to a
metallic lace and braiding work. The epaulets are composed of the body or
upper part (which is attached to the shoulder) of the usual form, around
which it is customary to attach the tassels or the fringe, which are fixed or
moveable according to the description of epaulet required. The body of the
epaulet is made from a piece of the metallic tissue such as is described in a
Patent granted to Miles Berry, of Chancery Lane, bearing date at Westmins-
ter, the Thirtieth day of August, one thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight,
and the fringes and tassels thereof are to be wholly of metal; and I prefer
them to be made according to the means hereafter explained. The fabrics so
produced being wholly of metal are suitable for forming the top or
body part of the epaulet, and it should be stated that the lining or
padding of the under side of the body of the epaulets is to be attached by
sewing with needle and thread or otherwise, as readily to be removed and
replaced as to allow of the epaulet being washed and submitted to the action
of acids, as is well understood in cleaning metals.
In making fringes I employ a machine such as is shewn at Figures 1 and 2 of
the Drawing, and I fix in the centre of the little pulley or wheel (1) a mandril or
axle of iron wire (2), terminated by a ring. This mandril is about two and three
quarters inches long. The ring at the end ought not to be quite closed, but
sufficiently open to allow another mandril or wire to be introduced (3), which
is also terminated by a ring, and which is enchained or linked in the ring of
the mandril (2) around the mandril (3). Near the ring or link is to be
twisted an iron wire of the size indicated in the design. This wire is either
flat or round, and entirely covers the ring and also about a quarter of an inch
of the mandril (3), and is terminated by a small hook about one sixth of an
inch in length, as is indicated at (3). I then flatten a small piece of iron
wire and turn it one and a half times round the mandril (3), and at one
of the extremities of the said flattened wire I leave a straight piece, about a
quarter of an inch in length, as is represented at (4). This piece (4) is called
the guide. I leave a distance between the two turns of the guide round the
mandril (3) either greater or less according to the size of the spiral which I
wish to produce. Things being thus prepared, I place the guide (4) upon the
mandril (3), and take one of the wires of the metal which I mean to employ,

page_text: fine or coarse according to the size of the spiral required, I place the extre-
mity of the metallic wire behind the hook of the iron wire upon the mandril
(3) which is destined to support it, and the beginning of the guide (4), which
ought to be close up to the hook of the iron wire on the mandril (3); I
maintain by the fingers of the left band the metallic wire, the mandril (3), and
the guide, in such a manner as to keep them on the same line as the mandril
(2). I then turn the large wheel (5) with the right hand, carefully keeping the
metallic wire within the interstices of the spiral of the guide (4), and the wire
then follows the guide which slides up to the further extremity of the mandril (3),
which sliding is produced by turning the large wheel (5), and the spiral is
formed of the same length and thickness as the mandril (3). The mandril
(3) ought to be made of the length and thickness of the spiral which is
required. I place at the end of the table or stand upon which the spinning
wheel is mounted a support of iron wire, as indicated at (6), which serves to
sustain the mandril (3) when one spiral is terminated and another is preparing.
When there are a quantity of spirals ready they are to be linked one within
the other, which will form a sort of tissue from which the tassels or fringes are
made, and the making of which I am about to describe, taking for example
a tassel of two and a half inches long and half an inch in circumference. I
prepare by the means already described the spirals of five inches long, like
Figure A in the Drawing, which represents a spiral as it comes off the mandril
(3). The spirals are to be cut all of the same length with a pair of common
scissors, and two of the said spirals are then united together by means of a
third, which is introduced into the two others, as represented in Figure B. A
fourth spiral is then taken and linked within the three others, as in Figure C.
This spiral envelopes the three first. The fifth spiral is linked into two only
of the spirals in Figure C. This fifth spiral is the commencement of the
formation of the flat tissue, as represented in Figure D. The spirals must be
continued to be linked together (being careful to surround but two at a time
of the spirals which compose the tissue) till a tissue is obtained containing
twenty-two spirals, which quantity is sufficient to form a tassel or fringe orna-
ment two and a half inches long and half an inch in circumference, which size
I have chosen for example to produce the tissue represented in Figure E; but
the numbers may be varied, depending on the object to be obtained. The
work being thus far advanced, the loop which usually terminates the tassels is
to be made in the following manner:-A purl or close coil of wire sufficiently
large to fill the interior of the tube, formed of the tissue when turned
over, and the two edges connected as indicated in Figure F, which two
edges are united together by means of a small spiral half an inch in length

page_text: linked into the two selvages. The coil and the internal purl of wire is half
an inch long. The work of forming the tassels is then to be completed. The
tissue is then to be folded carefully in such manner that the middle portion
which, by the introduction of the coil, is become as it were a solid cylindrical
portion well rounded. The tissue is then to be bent or folded in the middle in
order to bring the selvages of the tissue together. G shows the tissue partly
folded. When the tissue is folded and the edges approaching each other, they
are to be united together by means of a spiral, which is to be linked into two
of the spirals of the right-hand selvages and only into one spiral of the left-
hand selvage; another spiral is to be introduced into two of the spirals
of the left-hand selvage and into one only of the right-hand selvage.
Great care must be taken to introduce the spirals right up to the loop,
as indicated in Figure H. The same operation is to be repeated on
the other side, and the four edges being thus joined in an imperceptible
and substantial manner, the tissue forms a tube, open at the top, and
terminated at the bottom by a solid loop, as shewn in Figure J. A mandril
of round boxwood or other suitable material is then introduced, which is
destined to regulate the form of the tube; a coil or purl of metallic wire, of
sufficient length and thickness to fill up the interior of the tube, must then be
introduced in place of the mandril, being careful that it descends quite to the
bottom of the tube, as indicated in letter K. This coil or purl strengthens
considerably the tassels or fringes; a tassel or portion of fringe superior to
those containing a mixture of silk or other substance, and are enabled to
support pressure or blows from hard substances without being deformed,
for the coil or purl of wire in the interior renders them elastic, so that they
will take their proper shape as soon as the pressure ceases. The purl being thus
introduced, the open end of the tube is to be sewed by six or eight pieces of
the metallic wire about two inches in length, each piece being passed through
several of the meshes of the tissue, up to its middle; the two ends of each
are then brought all together, and being twisted round the tube is closed in
a strong manner, and the ends of the wires form a sort of shank, as is repre-
sented in Figure L. This shank serves to fix the tassel or fringe-like orna-
ment to the body of the epaulet. The process of manufacturing is the same
whatever size or length of tassel or fringe may be required, being careful to
take the spirals sufficiently long and to link them together in sufficient number
to form a tissue of a width proportioned to the diameter of the tassel which
is to be made.
To make the ornament called double ribbed, as represented in Figure M :-
Follow the process of making already indicated up to Figure J; a mandril of

page_text: boxwood or other suitable material is then introduced into the tube, sufficiently
large to fill the interior; the tube is to be kept on the mandril by the left land,
the workman taking in the right hand a pair of nippers with pointed ends,
as represented (at 7), by means of which he will take; two by two, the ribs
of the tissue and bring them together, beginning n near the loop and so con-
tinuing right up to the top; he will thus obtain the double ribs as indicated
in Figure M. This opération terminated, a purl or coil is to be introduced
as explained, and it is to be terminated by sewing the end and forming a shank
according to the process already described for making an ordinary fringe
ornament or tassel, and which is represented in Figure L in a finished state.
In some epaulets it is usual to place fringe ornaments or bindings 'round the
body of the epaulets, and these ornaments being placed, the larger binding
ornaments are either plain or double' ribbed, and are manufactured by the
process already described, being careful to employ the spirals of a sufficient
length and to form a tissue of a width proportioned to the size of the orna-
ment required.
:
To make the suitable binding ornaments like that représented in Figure
N, taking, for example, an ornament ten inches long and one twelfth of an
inch in diameter, thirty spirals of five inches in length are to be linked together
one by one, being careful that each spiral be introduced into one only of the
selvage spirals of the tissue, and not into two, as in the other description of
ornament. These thirty spirals being linked together one by one, will
produce a tissue three quarters of an inch wide, which is to be folded together
to form a tube uniting the two sides by a single spiral only, which are to be
linked into the two selvages. The tube being thus formed, the extremities
are to be taken between the thumb and forefinger of each hand, then stretched
with considerable force, which will lengthen the spirals and tighten the
meshes, and will form the sort of ribbed pattern as represented in Figure N;
the ornament is finished by sewing the end of the tube with metallic wire.
The preceding description are applicable to the making of all sorts of immove-
able tassels, or fringes, or ornaments employed in the manufacturing of
epaulets.
I will now proceed to describe the manner of making the flexible or
moveable fringe, and other ornaments necessary for manufacturing epaulets
of which the fringe ornaments are moveable or flexible. To make the small
flexible fringe a metallic tissue is to be formed, by following the process
already indicated for manufacturing the tissue, Figure E, except that much
smaller spirals are to be employed. Thus, to 'make a fringe two inches and
a quarter long the spirals are to be linked together till a tissue is formed two

page_text: inches and a quarter wide, then, with a pair of scissors, a band of the tissue
is to be cut one third of an inch wide, as indicated at Figure O; a small
mandril of boxwood (the size calculated according to the thickness of the
fringe) is then to be placed in the middle, and the two selvages being brought
together over the mandril, the fringe is formed and finished as represented in
Figure P, it not being necessary to join the selvages in any other manner.
This tassel or fringe has no loop at the end, but it must be closed by bringing
together the meshes at the extremity of the mandril (which is slightly rounded)
by means of a pair of ordinary nippers or pliars and pressing them in such a
manner as to form a rounded end to the tassel. To close the top of the fringe
four or five metallic wires, about two inches long, must be inserted into the
selvages, folded double and twisted together so as to form a shank, and the
flexible fringe is thus entirely finished.
Note. As general observations, it may be remarked, that if it is wished to
make bright fringes, metallic wire rolled flat for the spirals is to be employed,
and if they are dead fringes which are to be produced, they are to be of round
wire for the spirals.
There is also a small twist or coil, all of metallic thread or wire, to which
part of the Invention relates. Hitherto the purls used for making small coils,
called double twist, had a central part made of silk or cotton, which ensured to
them a sufficient pliancy for being doubled; but this substance facilitates the
oxidation of the metal by absorbing moisture, and does not allow the use of
fluids, particularly acid, for cleaning the said metal; for it is obvious that it cannot
be dipped in a solution of sulphuric or nitric acid without burning the silk,
cotton, or other such material. To obviate this inconvenience, according to this
part of the Invention, the central part is to be of metal. I use several flattened
wires, forming together a very thin string. I use two, three, or four, according
to the size of the coil. I introduce them into the purl instead of the silk or
cotton, from thence it results that the twisting or doubling of the two purls
to form a twist causes those interior wires to yield and get twisted, according to
the flexibility of the purl itself. This modification, apparently of little impor-
tance, allows the double twist to preserve externally the form and appearance
of twists made on the lace and braiding system, while it permits the epaulets
once fixed on metallic bodies to be cleaned with acids, and to last much longer.
I mean by the word coil or twist those fringe-like drooping ornaments which
hang from the body of the epaulet, and are either fixed or moveable. The
word purl or coil of wire, exactly similar to those used for rendering suspenders
elastic. The shoulder knots, twisted laces, round and square braids and other
ornaments generally employed in cavalry and other regiments, are made on

page_text: the old braiding system by means of a white or yellow cotton cord, covered by
a tissue mixed of silk and (most commonly) of silver gilt wire, joined by means
of a scam which unites the two selvages. This process is very incomplete, for
those parts of the shoulder knots, braids, &c. which are exposed to being
rubbed become white in a very short time, whilst other parts preserve their
gilding, which produces a very bad effect and a very considerable expence to
the officers, it being impossible either to clean or regild them. The shoulder
knots, braids, twisted laces, and other ornaments made by the process of which
I claim the Invention have all the advantages which I have explained for the
tassels and fringe-like ornaments of the epaulets, besides which they are elastic
and flexible, and more pliable than the same descriptions of articles made by
the ordinary braiding systems. To make a shoulder knot:-A round steel
wire of about one twenty-fourth of an inch in diameter, and about one-and-a-
half inches long, is to be turned one-and-a-quarter times round in a ring half an
inch in diameter in spiral, leaving an interval one twenty-fourth of an inch
between the two turns, and at the other extremity a straight end of a wire half
an inch long, as represented in Figure 8. A spiral of metallic wire, as prepared
in letter A, must be placed upon the ring of the steel wire 8, and sewn there-
upon by means of a metallic wire passed successively through each of the rings
of the spirals. When the first turn of the spiral is sewn it is to be turned round
on the steel wire, and a second turn of the spiral must be brought near the
steel wire 8, and linked or rather sewn together by means of the metallic wire,
which must be introduced into each mesh of the first and second turns of the
spiral, as represented in Figure Q. The same operation is to be continued
successively turning the finished rounds of the spiral upon the steel wire till a
sufficient length is obtained. The operation of sewing or linking the spirals as
in Figure R, as represented on a flat surface:-This sewing is done by the hand
without the aid of a needle. A small round wooden mandril may be employed,
which is held by the left hand and introduced into the middle of the round
tissue to sustain it and facilitate the sewing. By the means just described, a
sort of hollow round chain, about half an inch in diameter, will be obtained,
which, being very elastic and flexible, can be stretched very considerably; thus
to obtain a length of twenty-three feet, seventeen feet of chain will be sufficient,
which being taken at each extremity can be stretched to the length of twenty-
three feet. Being thus far advanced, a regular thickness must be given to it by
drawing it through the guage of wood, of which the hole ought not to exceed a
quarter of an inch in diameter. With the chain prepared in this manner the
plaits and bows of the shoulder knot must be made exactly in the same manner
and by the same process as the shoulder knots are made by the common

page_text: braiding system. The figure S represents the chain of the shoulder knot
completely finished. To make an unpolished shoulder knot with dead rings,
the spiral is to be made of round wire, and the rings must be sewn with
the twisted metallic wire called fillagree. To make a shoulder knot with
polished rings, the spirals are to be made of metallic wire rolled flat and
sewn together with the metallic wire called fillagree. It will easily be under-
stood what great variety may be obtained by mixing the shades of the
wires employed in making the spirals or the wires which serve to unite
the spirals together. The tassels, fringes, ornaments, braids, and other
articles of which I have described the making, can be applied to other
objects than epaulets and military equipments or ornaments for upholstery and
furniture, fringes for curtains, table covers, pompons, cords, and other orna-
ments for ladies head dresses, fringes for shawls, bell ropes, tassels for girdles,
and numerous other uses; the Invention not being confined to the application,
but consists in the mode of constructing or making the fringes or tassels, or
such like articles. Thus the cords or braids which form the upper part and
the joins of the uniform glands are made by exactly the same process and the
same means as employed to make the small flexible fringe, represented
Figure P, only that it is necessary to make the tissue of the length required,
and in the same manner for all other accessarys. The mounting of the metallic
epaulets with large tassels differ from the mounting of epaulets made on the
usual system on a single point. When the tassels which form the fringe of the
epaulet are ready to be sewed to the cardboard body, they must be arranged
regularly upon the table by graduations; for in making, the tassels destined to
be placed in the centre of the epaulet must be rather longer than the others.
The shoulder knots, epaulets of all descriptions in copper gilt, silver gilt, fine gold
or silver, are mounted in exactly the same manner as has been usual, and being
very well understood, I do not consider it necessary to describe it here, for it does
not contain anything which forms a part of the Invention. When the epaulets,
glands, or other articles come out of the hands of the mounter, they do not
require any further preparation, but are ready for use. When the epaulets or
other metallic articles manufactured of copper gilt, silver gilt, or fine gold,
are become black or tarnished by long service, or any atmospheric cause, a
light lather is to be produced from soap and water and spread upon every part
of the epaulet by means of a soft brush, then slightly washed with clear water,
and dried immediately by rubbing it with boxwood sawdust, or sponging it
carefully with a piece of fine linen till no moisture remains, the article will
thus regain its freshness and color. If the oxidation of the metal resists the
soap and water, pour a few drops of aqua fortis into a glass of clear water;

page_text: this mixture will be strong enough when a drop placed upon the tongue burns
very slightly. This water is to be made use of in the manner indicated above
for the soap and water, being careful to wash the articles with fresh water
immediately after having washed it with the mixture; it must be dried in the
manner above described.
To clean epaulets or other articles manufactured in silver wire or imitation
silver, take some English magnesia and form a paste by wetting it with spirits
of wine; spread a thin coat of this paste upon the object which you wish to
clean, and leave it till quite dry; then brush off the paste with a small brush,
which is to be used very lightly.
Having thus described the Invention, I would have it understood I make no
claim to any of the parts, the apparatus, or process herein described, which have
been publicly known and in use before this Patent. But what I claim is,―
First, the mode of making epaulets by means of metal in such manner as to
allow of cleaning by washing and acid, as herein described; and,
Secondly, I claim the modes of making fringes and other ornamental articles
or fabrics of wire, as herein described, whereby the same may be cleaned by
washing, and with acid, when required, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Moses Poole, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and thirty-nine.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-first day of August, in
the year of our Lord 1839, the aforesaid Moses Poole came before our said
Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification afore-
said, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Twenty-first day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and thirty-nine