Improvements in Button Hole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 13th May, 1895
Complete Specification, Left, 12th Feb., 1895-Accepted, 9th May, 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Button Hole Sewing Machines.
I, JULIUS GUTMANN of Meyerbeerstrasse, Berlin, Germany, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows
-
This invention relates to mechanism, duiven by a vertical spindle from the
horizontal main spindle of sewing machines, for bar stitching button holes, in which
mechanisin a link rod in connection through a slide with the fabric clamp is pressed
against a revolving cam by a sping-o by a lever and cam mechanism coupled
duing the bar stitching operation to the link od-whereby the slide and with
it the fabric clamp is so slid to and fro, that the latter performs the movements
necessary for the bar stitching by the needle. The link iod is pressed against the
revolving cam only during the bar stitching operation whilst in the rest of the
button hole sewing the link iod is prevented by a stop piece from reaching
the cam, the link tod being provided with a projecting stud for this purpose.
A ratchet wheel furnished with one stud, on with a number of studs in a cicle
at equal distances apart, is actuated from the Inh rod through one or two pawls
to operate a lever for disengaging the diving band after the ratchet wheel has
been turned round a certain number of teeth corresponding to a certain number
of bar stitches, and after the bar stitching operation the stud or studs acts or
act against a disengaging lever or to lift the driving pawl out of the ratchet
wheel so as to allow of the wheel being returned by a spring. The diving band
may be replaced on the driving wheel by a hand lever.
The bai stitching may also be accomplished from a rod kept constantly
Oscillating by a revolving cam and connected and disconnected at will by means
of a coupling bolt to or from a lever jointed to the slide which is in connection
with the fabric clamp.
The fabric clamp is formed of an upper and a lower plate with a spring fixed ID
between them. The top plate is pressed down against the pressure of the spring
by means of two excentiic levera mounted on the same spindle which is carried in a
support fixed to the bed plate of the machine The fabric 19 held between the
two plates.
Dated thie 13th day of Mow 1005
I, JULIUS GUTMANN of Meyerbeerstrasse, Berlin, Germany, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement
-
This invention relates to mechanism for application to button hole sewing
machines, for bar stitching button holes, in the manner that so soon as the button
bole has been sewn at the edges, any suitable number of bar stitches may be mado
Price RI

page_text: automatically and the machine automatically stopped so soon as the button hole has
been sewn and bai stitched. The mechanisin may be applied to button hole sewing
machines of different systems in which the fabric clamp is displaced in performing
the sewing operation whilst the needle moves up and down and at the same time
also literally to and fio. The mechamam described for the ordinary edge sewing
of the button hole, for moving the fabric clamp during said ordinary sewing, and
for stopping the machine 13 old The novel part is the mechanism for performing
the bat stitching and for setting this bat statching mechanism in action and for
stopping the machine at the proper time after completion of the bar stitching
In the accompanying drawing
Fig 1 is a part sectional elevation of a sewing machine provided with the
mechanism of this invention
Fig 2 is a top view of the sewing table plate the upper arm of the machine
being omitted for the purpose of greater cleainess
Fig. 3 is an underneath view of the sewing table plate
Fig. 4 to 8 are views of details
1
The machine shewn for explaining the invention has at its back end a vertical
spindle on which is fixed a cam 2. This latter moves a lever 3 and 4 to and
fio to transmit the requisite oscillating motion to the catcher and under thread.
The needle od bas motion transmitted to it partly through the driving spindle 5
and partly through the vertical spindle 1 inasmuch as the spindle 5 dives au
eccentire which actuates the needle rod, and the spindle 1 cominumicates to a bell
crank lever om a cam groove, motion giving a to and fro movement to the
needle rod. The motion of the fabric presser or clamp 6 is, for the ordinary
gewing of button holes, likewise transmitted in a known way from a groove 8 in
the upper surface of a cam 7 said cam beng so operated from a cam 10 through a
double lever 9 that upon each revolution of the spindle 1 the cam 7 is turned
1ound to a certain extent The cam 7 has at its bottom surface two eam grooves
the one 11 in which engages a lever 12 by a guppug piece 12x and the other 13
which limits the stroke of a lever 14 stiuch by lover 9 to move it to and fro
The
leve 12 which is drawn forward by a sping in a direction tangential to the cam
groove 11 at the point where the engaging pieco 12× 15 seated, receives through
the lever 14 Jointed to it, and in consequence of this being struck by lever 9 a pull,
and this way turns the cam 7 to a certain extent A stud 15 carried in the
fabric presse 6 and passing through the slot 16 (Fig 2) engages in the groove 8
of the cam 7 and upon each stitch, receives by reason of the tuming of said cam, a
movement which, so long as the stud 15 engages in the straight parts of the slot 16,
is towards of away from the needle, but found the needle so long as the stud
engages in the round portion of the slot. This movement is transmitted to the
fabile presse 6 though said stud carried by it so that the former moves in a
straight line towards the needle, then in a half encle und the same and they
agam ma straight line away from the needle, m a way to correspond to the form of
the button hole, thus whilst the needle rod with the needle performs the known up
ard down and from ught to left movements, the fabric piesser is carried in the
Ime of the button hole
So far the mechanism is of a known kind and is only referred to here for the
purpose of clearness, the hereinafter described mechamim of this invention being
employed in conjunction with the aforesaid known mechanism.
17 is a slide bar bearing by a friction toller agamist the periphery of cam 2
which periphery is provided with a projecting part that upon each revolution of
the cam pushes forward said slide bar which is drawn back again by a spring 18.
The side bai 17 carries two studs 19, 20, so as to project through the sewing table
plate and move in slots therem. Stud 19 is in connection with the fabric presser 8
and gives it motion, for which purpose it is attached to a bar 21 sliding in the
sewing plate and having at one of its ends a disc like extension projecting some-
what above the upper surface of slide bar 21. In this extension or boss theic is an
oval aperture for the reception of the small stitching disc 22 Over the said

page_text: projecting extension of slide bar 21 is slid the fabric presser with its slot and a
groove formed in the slot for the reception of the edge of the extension of slide
bar 21, and is 80 connected with the slide bai 21 that it must take part in the
motion of the same, and also turns on the extension of said slide bar 21. The
slide bars 17 and 21 inay also be formed in one piece The stud 20 serves to
arrest the slide bai 17 by a stop piece 23 coming to lie in front of said stud and
thus preventing the aping 18 from pressing the slide bat against the cam 2
whereupon the motion of the slide bai 17 and fabric presser 6 is stopped
This
stoppage occurs whilst the button hole is being sewn with ordinary stitches, and
when this sening has been completed, the slide bai 17 which operates the bar stitching
mechanism, comes into action. To remove the stop picro 23 automatically at the
proper moment, there is arranged on the fabric presset 6, which is slid over the
disc like extension of the slide bar 21 and m its turning movement is guided on
the same, an adjustable pointer 24. This slides underneath a bracket 25 (Figs. 1
and 5) formed in one with the stop piece 23 and acts upon said bracket in certain
positions of the fabric presser. In the stud 20 (Fig 6) there is a groovo 26
corresponding to the cross section of the stop picce 23 so that the latter when
bought to the height of the groove, can slide to and fro therein. When the
pointer 24 comes to lie underneath the bracket 25, stop piece 23 enters the
groove 26, or when the fabric piesser takes a certain position, the stop piece cau
slide to and fio within said gioove, and the slide bar 17 can then perform the
movement required for the bai stitching operation, as it is free to move against
the periphery of cam 2.
In order, after the bai stitching has been finished, to stop the machine, there is
provided a ratchet wheel 27, (Figs. 1, 3, 4) which operates in conjunction with a
known means for throwing out of engagement and braking the driving pulley 28.
This known means consists of a double lever 29, slotted or forked at one end, and
which by means of the fork carries the diving band from the fast driving pulley 28
to a loose pulley 30, at the same time permitting the brake 31 to fall, drawn by a
spring, against the fly wheel so soon as the level 29 with its projection holding
back the brake, slides away. Lever 29 is actuated from a slide bai 32 and this
latter from the wheel 27 In jointed connection with the slide bar 17 is a pawl 33.
which takes part in the to and fro movement of said slide bar, thereby setting the
ratchet wheel 27 in notation, this being done, say to the extent of one tooth upon
every bar stitch. As now the ratchet wheel 27 carries upon that side which faces
the slide bar 32, studs corresponding to a certain numbot of ratchet teeth, from one
of which studs the slide bar 32 13 actuated, it will happen that after a certain
number of bar stitches, a stud will move the slide bai 32 and thereby, though the
lever 29, the driving band will be carried on to the loose pulley thus bringing the
machine to a stillstand. The studs are so aanged upon the ratchet wheel that
after about eight stitches of the needle a stud comes into action and the machine is
stopped. The respective stud of the ratchet wheel 27 (Fig 4) stakes against an
oblique sun face on an arm of a level 38 said arm projecting downwards towards the
ratchet wheel. The lever 38 comes to lie with its aim in front of the slide bar 32
so that the latter cannot be drawn backwards by the spring 36 If now the ratchet
wheel 18 turned, and one of the studs thereby moved against the oblique surface of
the arm of lever 38, this lever will be moved to one side, and the slide bar 32 will
be set free and drawn backwards by the spring 36. By the movement of the slide
bar 32 the levor 29 is turned, the driving band thrown on to the loose pulley 30
and the brake 31 falls against the fly wheel. In order to be able to stop the
machine by hand independently of the ratchet wheel 27 there is attached to
the love 38 an aim with a handle 34.
thereby also the lever 38, and the slide
the spring 36.
This handle 19 moved to one side and
bar 52 set free and drawn backwards by
In order to be able to again start the machine there is attached to the slide
bar 32 a handle 35 by which said slide bar is drawn forwards, whereby on the one
hand the lever 38 or its projecting arm is sprung by the spring 37 behind the front

page_text: lug or extension of slide bar 32, so that this latter caunot move back again, and ou
the other hand the slide bar 32 turns the double lever 29, the fork or loop of this
lever throws the driving band on to the driving pulley 28 and the small projection
on said lever slides against the brake 31 and moves it away from the fly wheel. In
this way the machine is started agai
Figs. 7 and 8 shew modifications in the means for shifting the stop piece 23 at
the proper time. In Fig. 7a spring stop level 23, 25, 13 pressed back by lugs on
the fabic presser 6, whilst in Fig. 8 a double lever 25 is so turned by such lugs
that its arm 23 releases the stud 20 to allow the fice movomeat of the lattor and of
the slide bar 17, to which end the stud 20 is fixed to the slide bar 17 and the stop
lover 23 comes to lie in front of said stud 20, on the levor 23 (Fig. 8) holds the
stud 20 fast so that the slide bar 17 does not come against the cum 2 and thus no
bar stitching movement can take place When the stop lover 23 is removed, the
spring 18 draws the slide bar 17 against the cam 2 and the bir stitching movement
then takes place.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the samo 13 to be performed, I declare that what 1
claim is :-
1 A mechanism for bar stitching button holes in butt in hole sewing machines,
Consisting of a slide bar or iod 17 in connection with the fabric presset of fabric
holder, said slide bai on rod being reciprocated from a cam 2 which latter brings
about the change of motion of the fabric presser or holder underneath the needlo
rod so that the tabua presser perform the movement required for the bu stitching
operation, substantially as described and shewn
2. A mechanism of the kind referred to in Clain 1, the meaus for the cugage-
ment and disengagement of which consists of a stud 20 or its equivalent fixed in
the slide bar o rod operating the fabric presser or fabric holdet, and in front of
which stud during the ordinary sewing of the button hole a displaceable stop pioce
1s so placed that the slide bar no longer takes against the cam 2, thereby stopping
the bar stitching operation whilst upon the completion of the button hole the fabrio
presser displaces the stop picce so as to permit the reciprocation of the slide bar 17
for another bar stitching operation, substantially as described and shewn.
3. A mechanism of the kind referred to in Claim 1, in which, for the purpose of
placing the driving pulley of the sewing machine out of action after completion
of the bar stitching, there is provided a ratchet wheel 27 winch by means of a pawl
or detent in connection with the slide bar o connecting rod 17 operating the fabric
presser, 18 upon each bar stitch turned round to the extent of one or more teeth
and by means of studs placed theicon at certain distances apart, actuates a known
means for placing the driving pulley out of action, substantially as described and
shewn.
Dated this 12th day of Kobr
1908
CAPITAINE & VON HERTLING,
89 Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.