IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BODIES OF CRAVAT COLLARS AND STOCKS AND STIFFNERS, AND IN THE ORNAMENTING OF CRAVAT COLLARS AND STOCKS IN GENERAL
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Alfred Jordery, of No. 12, Rue
Thivenot, Paris, France, Manufacturer, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BODIES OF CRAVAT
COLLARS AND STOCKS AND STIFFNERS, AND IN THE ORNAMENTING OF
CRAVAT COLLARS AND STOCKS IN GENERAL."
Sealed the 6th June 1853, and dated the 6th December 1852.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Alfred
Jordery at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 6th December 1852.
I, CHARLES ALFRED JORDERY, of No. 12, Rue Thivenot, Paris,
France, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BODIES OF
CRAVAT COLLARS AND STOCKS AND STIFFNERS, AND IN THE ORNAMENTING OF
CRAVAT COLLARS AND STOCKS IN GENERAL," to be as follows:-
The part of the Invention relating to the construction of the bodies
of collars, &c. consists in placing the warp and weft of the materials
generally employed for that purpose in opposite directions, instead
of uniformly, a series of fibres being placed perpendicularly in the
middle.

page_text: In the Drawing, a, is a piece of material with its fibres in one
direction, and b, a piece with its fibres in a different direction; c,
shews a perpendicular piece, serving to strengthen the middle, and
which is cut in several places to give elasticity; d, shows the three
parts together, and forming a complete stiffener or body of a collar
or stock. I obtain the two pieces of material to be superposed, by
cutting them slantingly from the piece, and the third in the usual
way; after which they have only to be sewn together..
The part relating to the ornamenting of collars and stocks consists
in superposing upon a plain or figured tissue different figures or
designs, or parts of different colored goods, which, when fixed to
the said tissue, form new designs. I apply the same by means of
paste properly prepared, either upon the upper surface or underneath;
in which latter case, parts have to be cut out of the tissue to form
the design
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of, the conditions of the Letters
Patent, filed by the said Charles Alfred Jordery in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 6th June 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
CHARLES ALFRED JORDERY, of No. 12, Rue Thévenot, Paris, France,
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen - Victoria, by
Her Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of December, One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the sixteenth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Charles Alfred Jordery, Her special licence
that I, the said Charles Alfred Jordery, my executors, administra-
tors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Charles Alfred
Jordery, my executors, administrators, & assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times.
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom, of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BODIES OF CRAVAT

page_text: COLLARS AND STOCKS AND STIFFNERS, AND IN ORNAMENTING OF CRAVAT COL-
LARS AND STOCKS IN GENERAL," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Charles Alfred Jordery, by.an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Alfred Jordery, do
hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement (that is to say):
The Invention consists in laying two pieces of horse hair or other
suitable material cut in opposite directions, in the warp of the piece
of tissue, above each other, and placing a third piece of the same
material, with cuts, between the middle part of the other two pieces.
By uniting these three parts, I produce a body or stiffner, present-
ing sufficient elasticity and spring to give way under the pressure of
the chin, and retake its original form when that pressure is with-
drawn.
The stocks and cravat collars hitherto produced do not allow of
the free movement of the head through want of clasticity in the
breadth and height of the materials composing the body, which
causes a great inconvenience to the wearer, and a deformity of the
stock or cravat.
The inside of the new cravat, collar, or stock offers resistance and
elasticity in all directions, and does not crease the shirt collar, twist,
nor ride up.
Figure 1, is the first part of the body or stiffner it is elastic; and
is composed of horse hair or other suitable materials; it is cut in
the warp, with its fibres from left to right.
a, b, one side of the body, made of horse or boar's hair tissue,
the warp of which is set from left to right; the rough ends are seen
to protrude at a. c, button hole, for fastening the stock or collar to
the shirt, without showing the button hole, which is concealed by

page_text: other parts being superposed. d, another opening, allowing the
passage of a silk cord, for lengthening the interior and making it
retain its primitive shape.
Figure 2, second part of the interior, which covers the part
Figure 1, above described; in this the warp of the tissue, which is
made of similar materials, is set from right to left. c, seam, super-
seding the string, to prevent too great an elasticity in the breadth of
the stock; it is made to widen at the sides, but the middle part
remains permanent; for this purpose the seam should be made not
to produce any elasticity.
Figure 3, plan of the inside of the stock or collar, shewing the
third piece in the centre: a, shows the manner in which the two
parts of the body should be bordered to preserve its elasticity; b,
third upright part, forming the middle support of the body; it is
made of horse or boar's hair, and is about one inch in height.
The lines seen in the middle of the Drawing shew slits from the
centre to the top, and from the centre to the bottom, and by which
the parts are separated about one sixth of an inch; so that whatever
be the position of the hair of the tissue, the elasticity in the middle
of the collar may be preserved. By this means the weft is cut, and
the hairs are straight and susceptible of separation; when subjected
to pressure, it must be rather less in height than the other two parts,
by about one sixth of an inch. C, silk or cotton ribbon, or string,
fixed to the outer side of the body, passing through the middle,
underneath the satin, and replacing the seam c, Figure 2. It serves
to lengthen the stock, which is done by undoing the silk string, and
refastening it afterwards to maintain it in its new position. By
increasing the length of the stock its breadth becomes reduced; this
operation may be resorted to successfully when, after long wear, the
upper and lower edges of the stock become arched or bent. d,
button hole, Figure 1, seen outside.
Figure 4, complete body of a stock or cravat collar, without the
strap or string, shewing the slitted middle piece b, Figure 3. The
three parts composing the stock are so disposed as to be clastic in
breadth, height, right and left, and whatever part may be pressed.

page_text: upon will indirectly give way, and resume its original position when
the pressure is removed. The sewing of the different parts together,
and the covering of the same with any required materials, is per-
formed in the usual way.
The part relating to the ornamenting of collars and stocks con-
sists in superposing upon a plain or figured tissue different figures
or designs, or parts of different colored goods, which, when fixed
to the said tissue, form a new design. I apply the same by means
of paste properly prepared, either upon the upper surface or under-
neath; in which latter case parts must be cut out of the tissue, to
allow them to appear on the surface.
And having now described my said Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I wish it to be understood that I do not
confine myself to the precise mode of carrying the said Invention
into effect; but what I claim as new, and intend to be protected by
the said Letters Patent, is,
Firstly, the constructing the bodies of cravat collars and stocks
and stiffners of two pieces of horse hair tissue, or other suitable
material, with the warp in opposite directions, and having a third
upright piece, with slits between them, for giving flexibility and
preserving the form of the said articles when worn, as herein-before
described and referred to in the figures of the Drawing.
Secondly, the resetting the sides of the cravat collars, stocks,
or stiffners, after becoming arched or bent, by means of a string
or seam, as herein-before described and referred to in Figures 2, and
3, of the Drawing.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, this
Fourth day of June, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and fifty-three.
JORDERY, FILS. (L.S.)