Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd July, 1889-Accepted, 21st Sept., 1889
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by JOSEPH IRISH, Mechanical Engineer, of 201, Clinton
Avenue, Bridgeport, in the State of Connecticut, United States of America.]
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
I PHILIP ARTHUR NEWTON of the Office for Patents 6 Breams Buildings Chancery
Lane in the County of Middlesex Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to he performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates generally to that class of embroidering machines in which
the material to be embroidered is stretched in a support called a tambour frame,
which has connections by which it can be moved after each stitch to so shift the
material with relation to the needles as to cause the next stitch to be taken at the
proper point, the direction and extent of the movement of the frame before each
stitch is made being varied according as it is desired to vary the length and direction
of the stitch.
The tambour frame in the machines of this class is usually arranged in a vertical
position, and it is, therefore, illustrated in the present case and will be referred to as
arranged in such a position. It is to be understood, however, that the frame may be
arranged horizonially or be inclined at an appropriate angle and that the invention is
not limited in its application to a machine in which the tambour frame is arranged
vertically, and also that the terms "up,"
," "down," "left," and "right," as herein used
in reference to the direction of movement of the tambour frame, are simply intended
to designate movements in directions crosswise of each other without reference to the
plane in which the frame is arranged.
In this class of machines, also," a large number of needles are usually employed
whereby many duplicates of each figure of the patterns are made simultaneously,
but if desirable only a single needle may be employed and the term "needles" as
herein used is not, therefore, to be understood as limiting the invention to a machine
in which a plurality of needles are employed.
In order to provide for all the stitches employed in the class of embroidery
which is usually executed upon these machines it is necessary that the connection for
operating the tambour frame should be so organized that the frame can be moved
either up or down, or to the right or left, or in any intermediate direction, and to
any extent within the range required by the size of the pattern to be embroidered.
The present invention relates particularly to a mechanism for accomplishing
these movements of the frame automatically through connections which are con-
trolled by means of a pattern mechanism, consisting, in the case illustrated of a
Jacquard mechanism, the cards of which are perforated with reference to the pattern
to be embroidered.
In order to enable a more easy understanding of the detailed description of the
construction, organization and operation of the machine which will be hereinafter given,
a brief, general statement of its organization and operation will be first given.
The tambour frame which carries the fabric to be embroidered is supported in
a suitable framework and is couterbalanced in any well known manner so as to be
easily moved in any direction parallel with its face to present to the needles any
required points on the fabric according to the direction and length of the stitch to
be taken.
The up and down and right and left movements of the frame are imparted by
screw shafts working in nuts, the nuts or shafts being arranged to rotate in either
direction independently or together.
These shafts or nuts are operated so that each or both may move in either direction

page_text: or in opposite directions, separately or simultaneously, these movements being
transmitted through connecting mechanisms which are automatically controlled by
the pattern or Jacquard mechanism.
The connections for operating the respective screw shafts or nuts for giving the
movements to the tambour frame each include a tambour-frame actuating shaft,
having a fixed gear which is in engagement with reversely-arranged, loose gears
that are provided with clutch mechanisms controlled by the pattern or Jacquard
mechanism by which either one of said gears can be connected to a driving shaft
and thus revolve the respective tambour-frame actuating shafts so as to move the
tambour frame in either direction.
For the purpose of determining the extent of the movement of the tambour
frame in either direction the connections through which its respective movements
are derived are provided with frictional connections which are
so arranged that
the tambour frame may be arrested at any point in its movement in either
direction. The arresting of the tambour frame when it has been moved to the
proper extent in either direction is accomplished automatically by means of a series
of stops which are also controlled through suitable connections from the pattern or
Jacquard mechanism.
The mechanisms are so timed that the movenient of the tambour frame is
effected during the time when the needles are withdrawn from the fabric upon the
frames, and so that after the movement of the frame has been effected there will
be a sufficient dwell before the next movement of the frame to permit the needles
and their auxiliaries to act to form the stitches.
The Jacquard pattern mechanism shown is automatically operated through suitable
connections with the driving shaft of the machine, and is so timed as to shift the
cards of the Jacquard while the needles are operating. This Jacquard mechanism is
of substantially the ordinary form, and need not, therefore, be more specifically referred
to at this point.
The organization thus briefly outlined will now be described in detail, reference
being had to the accompanying drawings, in which-
Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic side elevation showing the general organization of the
machine; the mechanism for carrying the needles and operating them being
entirely omitted, as such mechanism forms no part of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is an enlarged end elevation of the machine, looking from the left of Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 is an enlarged side elevation of the mechanism for controlling the movements
of the tambour frame, looking from the side opposite that shown in Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is an enlarged plan view of the mechanism for controlling the movements of
the tambour frame, the Jacquard mechanism, and also the stops which control the
extent of the movement of the frame being omitted.
Fig. 5 is a vertical section taken on the line 5 of Fig. 4, looking in the direction
of the arrow.
Fig. 6 is a similar view taken on the line 6 of the same figure, looking in the
direction of the arrow.
Fig. 7 is a similar view taken on the line 7 of the same figure.
Figs. 8 and 9 are sectional details taken respectively on the lines 8 and 9 of Fig. 7,
looking in the direction of the arrows.
Figs. 10 and 11 are sectional details taken respectively on the lines 10 and 11 of
Fig. 6.
Fig. 12 is an irregular vertical section, somewhat reduced, taken on substantially
the line 12 of Fig. 6.
Fig. 13 is a horizontal section, showing the mechanism in the lower part of the
framework.
Fig. 14 is an enlarged section taken on the line 14 of Fig. 1.
Figs. 15 and 16 are respectively enlarged horizontal and vertical sections of the
Jacquard mechanism.
Fig. 16 is a view of one of the cards of the Jacquard.

page_text: Fig. 17 is an enlarge elevation, partly in section, of a mechanism for stopping
the machine in such manner that the parts will be arrested at certain predeterinined
positions with relation to each other.
Fig. 18 is a vertical section taken on the line 18 of figure 17, looking in the
direction of the arrows.
Fig. 19 is a similar view taken on the line 19 of the same figure, looking in the
direction of the arrows.
Fig. 20 is an enlarged plan view, partly in section, of a portion of one of the
mechanisms for controlling the extent of the movement of the tambour frame, show-
ing a safety stop mechanism which may be applied.
Fig. 21 is a central vertical section of the same parts.
Fig. 22 is a section taken on the line 22 of figuro 20.
Referring now particularly to figures 1, 4 and 14, it is to be understood that the
tambour frame A, which is of substantially the ordinary form, is in the case shown,
hung vertically in a suitable framework B and in such manner as to be capable of
moving freely up and down and to the right and left. For this purpose the frame is
provided upon its upper side and near its opposite ends with supplemental frames a
which pass between the two girders which form the top of the framework B. The
The tambour
tambour frame is guided in its movements in any suitable manner.
frame is supported upon grooved pulleys upon which the upper parts of the frames a
rest so as to permit the tambour frame to be moved freely in a horizontal direction.
The pulleys are carried in the bifurcated ends of a pair of levers p, which are ful-
crumed upon the framework B and are suitably weighted as indicated at
balance the frame and permit it to be moved easily in either direction and to equalize
the power required to move it up and down.
to counter-
C,
The vertical movement of the tambour frame is accomplished by means of screw
shafts, which are supported in brackets d rising from the framework B near its
which
opposite ends, and work in nuts g formed upon or connected to crossheads
reciprocate in ways formed in the brackets d and are connected to the ends of the
levers by means of rods b. The rods bare connected to the cross-heads c and levers p
by universal joints, preferably of the ball-and-socket form as shown. By this means
the swinging of the lower ends of the rods as the tambour frame is raised and
lowered which is occasioned by their connection with the levers p, is prevented from
The universal joints
exerting any tendency to bind the cross-heads c in their ways.
of the rods also perinit the tambour frame to be adjusted laterally to vary the distance
of the fabric from the needles and shuttles as is frequently required.
The shafts are provided at their upper ends with beveled gears which are
engaged by corresponding gears i, secured to a shaft k, having a gear m which is
engaged by a similar gear carried by a vertical shaft o, through which motion is
imparted to the shaft k and gears i, h, so as to revolve the screw shafts fin either
direction, and thus, through the connections which have been described, impart an up
or down movement to the tambour frame, according to the direction in which the
shafts are turned.
For the purpose of imparting the necessary right and left movement to the tambour
frame it is provided at its end next the operating mechanism with flanges which move
freely up and down between anti-friction rolls s carried by a cross-head t which slides
horizontally in bearings formed upon the framework B. The cross-head t is provided
with a nutt in which works a screw shaft w having a gear x, which is engaged by a
similar gear y carried by a vertical shaft through which motion is imparted to the
shaft w and through the connections which have been described to the tambour frame so
as to move it to the right or left, according to the direction in which the shaft w is turned.
The mechanism for imparting the necessary movements to the shafts o, z, is sup-
ported in a suitable framework (located at the end of the framework B which
supports the tambour frame. The frame C (see Figures 2 to 13) affords bearings for
a shaft D which in this case has the driving pulley E which receives motion through a
belt F from any suitable source of power. The shaft D is provided with a gear K
which engages with an intermediate L through which motion is imparted to a gear M

page_text: upon a shaft N which drives the needle operating mechanism. This latter mechanism
and the connections for operating it form no part of the present invention and are not
herein illustrated and will not therefore be more particularly referred to.
The shaft D
is also provided with a gear G which engages with a gear H fixed upon a shaft I,
which latter shaft is provided with a gear 67 which engages with a gear 66 fixed upon
a second shaft R. The shaft R, is the driving shaft, and power may be applied to it
direct, instead of to the shaft D, if desired.
For this purpose the shaft o (see Figures 4 and 12) is provided with a gear 58
which engages through an intermediate 59 with a gear 60 fixed upon a vertical
tambour frame actuating shaft 61 which also carries a beveled gear 62 which is
engaged upon opposite sides by reversely-arranged beveled gears 63, 64, mounted
loosely upon the driving shaft R. The shaft z (see Figures 4, and 12) is similarly
provided with a gear 68, which engages with a gear 69, fixed upon a vertical tambour
frame actuating shaft 70 similar to the actuating shaft 61 and having a beveled
gear 71, which is engaged upon its opposite sides by a pair of reversely arranged
beveled gears 72, 73, similar to the gears 63, 64, and also mounted loosely upon the
driving shaft R. The gears 63-64 and 72-73 constitute reversing gears or gearing
for transmitting the motion of the shaft R to the shafts 61-70.
It will be seen from the organization of the connections as thus far described that
so long as the gears 63, 64, and 72, 73 remain loose upon the driving shaft R no
.motion will be imparted in either direction to the gears 62 and 71, and as a con-
sequence the actuating shafts 61 and 70 will remain stationary and no motion will be
imparted in either direction to the tambour frame. If, however, the gear 63 is
clutched to the driving shaft R so as to turn with the shaft, the gear 64 remaining
loose upon the shaft, motion will be imparted to the gear 62 and actuating shaft 61
so as to set the gear 60 in motion, and through the connections which have been
described turn the screw shafts so as to impart an upward movement to the tambour
frame. On the other hand, if the gear 64 is clutched to the driving shaft R, the
gear 63 being loose, motion will be imparted to the gear 62 and actuating shaft 61 in
the reverse direction and will impart à reverse movement to the screw shafts f and
move the tambour frame downward. It will likewise be seen that if the gear 72 is
clutched to the driving shaft R, the gear 73 remaining loose, motion will be imparted
to the gear 71 and actuating shaft 70 so as to set the gear 69 in motion, and through
the shaft revolve the screw shaft so as to move the tambour frame to the loft,
while, if the gear 73 is clutched to the driving shaft R, the gear 72 remaining
loose, the connections and the shaft we will be moved in the reverse direction so as to
move the tambour frame to the right. It will further be seen that if one of the
gears of each of the pairs 63, 64 and 72, 73, are simultaneously clutched to the
driving shaft R, the other gear for each pair remaining loose, the tambour frame
will be moved obliquely either upward and to the left or right, or downward and
to the left or right, according to the gears of each pair which are clutched to the
shaft.
For the purpose of clutching the respective gears 63, 64, 72 and 73 to the driving
shaft R to impart movement in the required direction or directions to the tambour
frame each of the gears is provided with a friction clutch mechanism which is
operated automatically at the proper time in a manner to be presently explained.
These clutch mechanisms are exact duplicates as to their details and a description
of the mechanism for one pair of the gears will apply to both. Each of the gears is
provided with an inwardly projecting rim, 10 (see figures 7 and 9), within which lies
an expansible friction band, 12, one end of which is secured rigidly to an arm 13,
extending from a collar 14, fixed upon the driving shaft R. The opposite or free end
of the band is connected to the arm 13, by a spring 15, the tendency of which is to
contract the friction band 12, so as to reduce or entirely remove the friction between
it and the rim of the gear.
Fulcrumed upon a projection of the arm 13 is a lever 16 having a stud or set
screw 17 which engages with a shoulder upon the free end of the band 12 in such
manner that when the lever 16 is rocked away from the arm 13 the band 12 will be

page_text: expanded so as to press outward against the rim of the gear and lock the gear to the
shaft R sufficiently to set it in motion and thereby, through the connections which
have been described, impart movement to the tambour frame.
The driving shaft R is provided between each of the pairs of gears 63, 64 and
72, 73, with a sleeve 18 which turns with the shaft but is capable of a sliding
movement thereon and is provided at its opposite ends with wedges 19 which enter
between the free ends of the levers 16 and studs 20 projecting from the collars 14.
From this it will be seen that whenever the sleeve 13 is shifted toward either one
of the gears, the wedge 19 projecting from the end of the collar next the gear toward
which it is shifted will be forced between the stud 20 and lever 16 of the clutch of
that gear so as to rock the lever and expand the band 12 into frictional contact with
the rim 10 and thus clutch the gear to the shaft. The wedges 19 are so formed that
when the sleeve 18 is in its mid-position both wedges will be sufficiently withdrawn
to allow both gears to turn freely upon the shaft.
The clutches for the respective gears 63, 64, 72 and 73, are automatically operated
at the proper times as follows:
The shaft I is provided with a cam O in the path of which travels the bowl of a
rock-arm 50 which is connected to a rock shaft 51 located near the base of the
framework C. The cam O is so shaped that at each revolution of the shaft I, the
arm 50 will be moved so as to impart a rocking movement to the shaft 51. The
shaft 51 is provided with two rock-arms or pairs of rock-arms 53 (see Figures 12
and 13) which are pivotally connected by means of links 54 with a pair of
heads 56, 57 (see Figures 3, 6 and 11) which reciprocate vertically in ways formed
in the framework of the machine.
The sleeves 18 located between the respective pairs of gears 63, 64 and 72, 73,
are provided with circumferential grooves into which enter studs projecting from
yoke arins 21 which are secured to rock shafts 23, which extend beneath the
respective heads 56, 57, and are provided with double rock-arms 25, to the opposite
ends of which are pivoted vertical or substantially vertical rods 27, 28, 29, 30), the
upper ends of which are arranged to be brought into engagement with shoulders 9
formed upon the heads 56, 57.
From this organization it results that if the rod 27 is rocked inward so as to be
engaged by the shoulder 9 of the head 56 upon the downward movement of that
head (the rod 28 remaining out of engagement with the opposite shoulder 9 of the
head), the shaft 23 will be rocked so as to shift the sleeve 18 with which it is con-
nected and operate the wedge 19 to clutch the gear 63 to the driving shaft R, thus
setting said gear in motion and causing it through the connections which have been
described to impart an upward movement to the tambour frame, while, if the rod 28
is rocked inward so as to engage with the shoulder 9 of the head 56 upon the
downward movement of the head (the rod 27 remaining out of engagement with
the opposite shoulder upon the head), the shaft 23 will be rocked in the reverse
direction so as to clutch the gear 64 to the driving shaft R and impart a downward
movement to the tambour frame. Similarly, it will be seen that if the rod 29 is
rocked inward so as to engage with the shoulder 9 upon the head 57 upon the
downward movement of the head the other shaft 23 will be rocked so as to shift the
other sleeve 18, and through the wedge 19 clutch the gear 72 to the driving shaft R,
and thus, through the connections which have been described, move the tambour
frame to the left, while on the other hand, if the rod 30 is rocked inward so as to
engage with the opposite shoulder 9 of the head 57 upon the downward movement
of the head the shaft 23 will be rocked in the opposite direction so as to clutch the
gear 73 to the driving shaft R and move the tambour frame to the right.
It will thus be seen that in order to cause the tambour frame to move up or
down, or to the left or right, or obliquely, up and to the left or right, or down and
to the left or right, it is only necessary to cause the proper one of the rods 27, 28,
29 or 30, or the proper one of each of the pairs 27, 28 and 29, 30. to be rocked
inward at the proper time to be engaged by the head 56 or 57, or by both the
heads, as they are moved downward by the action of the cam O, as before described.

page_text: The rods 27, 28 and 29, 30. are, as before stated, pivoted at their lower ends to
the arms 25 so as to be capable of swinging with relation to the arms. Each of the
rods near its upper end passes through a guide opening formed in a lateral pro-
jection 8 of a plate 7 (see Figures 3, 6 and 11), which is pivoted at its lower end
upon a stationary part of the framework. The two plates 7 of each pair are con-
nected by a strap 6 so that any motion imparted to either of the plates 7 will be
communicated to the other plate with which it is connected. Each of the plates 7
is provided upon
its inner side with a stud 5 which passes through a recess in
the frame and enters an inclined slot 4 formed in a plate 3, which is arranged to
inove vertically in a suitable guide-way formed in the framework. The slots 4 of
the two plates 3 of each pair are inclined in opposite directions and aro 50
arranged that when the two plates are in their depressed position, as shown, the
studs 5 are held in such position as to rock the rods 27, 28 and 29, 30, to a
central position so that neither of the rods will be in position to be engaged by
the heads 56, 57, when the heads are depressed. When, however, either one of the
plates of the pair is raised the slot 4 of the plate acting upon the stud 5 will rock
the corresponding plate 7 so as to rock inward the rod 27, 28, 29 or 30, as the case
may be, and bring its upper end into position to be engaged, by the shoulder 9 of
the head 56 or 57, as the case may be, upon the downward movement of the head.
The plates 3 are connected, respectively, at their upper ends to rods 31, having
light springs 35 which operate to normally hold the rods and the plates 3 in their
depressed position, as shown in Fig. 11.
The selection of the proper rod or rods 31 to be moved in order to rock the
proper rod or rods of the pairs 27, 28 and 29, 30, into position, to be engaged by
the head 56 or 57, or both, for each stitch, and the movement of the rod or rods
so selected is automatically effected by means of the Jacquard mechanism, which
will be presently described.
It has now been explained how at each revolution of the shaft I the heads 56, 57,
are caused to make a downward movement so as to engage with and depress any of
the rods 27, 28, 29, 30, which have been rocked by the Jacquard mechanism, and
thereby through the connections which have been described, set one or both of the
shafts 61 and 70 in motion in the required direction to give the proper movement to
the tambour frame.
After the heads 56, 57 have completed their downward movement and during the
last part of the revolution of the shaft 1, the arm 50 will be operated in the reverse
direction, so as to restore said heads to their raised position. As the heads are thus
raised the springs 35 will restore the plates 3 to their normal position and rock the
rods 27, 28, &c., away from position beneath the shoulders 9 of the heads After the
shaft or shafts 23 has or have been rocked by the downward movements of
the heads 56, 57, so as to clutch one or more of the gears 63, 64, 72, 73 to the
driving shaft R, and thus through the connections which have been described, move
the tambour frame, and after the tambour frame has been moved, it is necessary
that the gear or gears which has or have been clutched to the driving shaft R, should
be unclutched from the shaft and the shafts 23 restored to their normal position
before the commencement of the next revolution of the shaft I, in order that the
rods 27, 28, &c., may be in proper position to be rocked beneath the shoulders 9 of
the heads.
The unclutching of the gear or gears 63, 64, 72, 73, which has or have been
clutched to the shaft, is automatically effected by means of cams 78, which are
carried by the shaft I, and act upon studs or bowls projecting from rock arms 79,
carried by the shafts 23, the cams 78 being so positioned that as the shaft I com-
pletes each revolution they will rock the arms 79 and shafts 23 to a central position,
and thus restore the sleeves 18 :o their mid-position.
In order to aid in overcoming the momentum of the gears 62 and 71 and the
parts connected therewith, so that said parts will come to rest promptly upon the
unclutching of the gears 63, 64, 72, 73 from the driving shaft R, they are provided
with brake mechanisms (see figures 5 and 6), which operate upon said gears, and are

page_text: automatically applied and removed simultaneously with the clutching and unclutching
of the gears 63, 64, 72, 73. These brake mechanisms consist of brake shoes 80,
which bear upon the flanges of the gears 62, 71, and are carried upon levers S1, the
free ends of which are acted upon by cams 82, carried by the shafts 23, these cams
being so shaped that when the shafts 23 are in their normal position they will rock
the levers 81 and apply the brakes, and that as the shafts are rocked either way
from the normal position the levers 81 will be allowed to remove in the reverse
direction to remove the brakes.
It has now been explained how at each revolution of the shaft I the tambour frame
is moved in the required direction, to give the proper direction to the successive
stitches, and also how the mechanism through which this movement of the tambour
frame is effected, is at the end of each revolution of the shaft I restored to its
normal position preparatory to imparting a new movement to the frame upon the next
revolution of the shaft.
If all of the stitches of the pattern to be embroidered were of the same length the
mechanism which has been described would be all that would be required to control
the movements of the frame. The stitches, however, are not all of the same length
hut vary within quite wide limits.
It is therefore necessary to provide means by which the distances which the
tambour frame is moved in either direction for each stitch, will be varied to conform
to the length of the required stitch.
This variation in the distance to which the frame is moved is also determined
and controlled through suitable connections from the Jacquard mechanism.
For this purpose the tambour frame actuating shafts 61 and 70 are provided with
arms 83, which, as the shafts are revolved, sweep around the shafts within annular
frames 84 which surround the upper ends of the shafts. The frames St are provided
with a series of recesses 85, located around the circumference of the frames, into
which are fitted loosely-moving stops 86, having upon their inner edges recesses 87
which coincide and form a continuous channel through the entire series of stops.
The arms 83 are provided with forwardly projecting extensions 88, preferably made
of rawhide or other slightly yielding material, which enter and sweep around in the
space formed by the recesses 87 of the stops 86.
The stops 86 are connected by wires or other suitable connections with the pattern
or Jacquard mechanism.
The operation of this part of the apparatus is as follows:
So long as all of the stops 86 remain in their normal position so that the openings 87
of all of the stops coincide, the sweep of the arms 83 will be uninterrupted, and the
actuating shafts 61 and 70 will continue their movement in one direction or the other
(depending upon which of the gears 63, 64 and 72, 73, is clutched to the driving
Shaft R), until they are arrested by the unclutching of said gears as before described,
and, as a consequence, the tambour frame will make its maximum movement in the
particular direction in which it is moved. When, however, the stitch which is to be
made is of less than the maximum length in either or both directions, one of the
stops 86 of one or each of the sets, will be raised so as to be interposed into the
path of the extension SS, of one or both of the arms 83 and thus arrest the arın or
rms 83 and the tambour frame after the frame has made the necessary movement
Done or both directions, for that particular stitch. The particular stop or
stops 86 to be raised will be determined by the length of the stitch to be taken, and
will be located such a distance from the arm or arins 83 at the commencement of its
or their movement as to permit the frame to be moved the required distance before
being arrested.
It will thus be seen that the actuating shafts 61 and 70 are, when the stitch to
e taken is of less than the maximum length, arrested while the gears through which
he shafts are driven are still clutched to the driving shaft R. The friction bands 12
of these gears and the wedges 19 may, however, be so adjusted that the friction
between the bands and the rims of the gears, while being sufficient to move the
ambour frame, will yield and permit the driving shaft R to revolve without danger

page_text: of breaking the parts after the shafts 61 and 70 are arrested. In practice, however,
it is preferable to so adjust the bands 12 and wedges 19 that the gears 63, 64, 72, 73,
will be very firmly clutched to the shaft R, and in order to permit the tambour
frame to be arrested without danger to the machine when the bands 12 and
wedges 19 are thus adjusted, the actuating shafts 61 and 70 are made in two parts,
which are capable of turning with relation to each other and one of which parts
carries the gears 62, 71, while the other part carries the gears 60, 69. The two
parts of the actuating shafts 61, 70, are connected by friction clutches which will
yield more readily than the friction clutches which connect the gears 63, 61, 72, 73,
to the shaft R.
For this purpose the gears 60, 69, which, as before explained, are fixed to one
part of the shafts, are provided with rims 90) (see Figures 7 and 8), which are
surrounded by friction bands 91, which are connected to arms 92 fixed upon the
other parts of the shafts, the arms 92 and the bands 91 being connected by adjusting
screws 93 by which the bands can be tightened onto the rims 90 with sufficient
tension to drive the gears and the parts connected therewith and yet yield and permit
the gears 62, 71, to revolve without danger of breaking or injuring the machine when
the gears 60, 69, and the parts connected therewith are arrested by the stops 86, as
just explained.
When the arms 83 are arrested by coming into contact with the stops 80 which
have been interposed in the path of the arms, the extensions 88 of the arms will, of
course, continue to be pressed against the stops until the gears have been unclutched
from the driving shaft R, and as the brakes 50 are applied to the gears 62, 71 simul-
taneously with the unclutching, the extensions 88 will continue to be held against the
stops 86, and might in some cases prevent the siops from falling back to their normal
position as soon as released by the pattern or Jacquard mechanism, and thus prevent
the movement of the arms 83 for the next stitch, in case said imovement should be
in the same direction as the last movement.
In order to prevent this and to release the stops so as to permit them to fall
freely back to their normal position before the next movement of the armis 83, there
are provided automatic releasing mechanisms which take the pressure of the exten-
sions 88 off the stops simultaneously with the unclutching of the gears from the
driving shaft R.
For this purpose the rock-arms 79 (see figures 4, 6, 7 and 10) are extended and
pivotally connected at their upper ends to rods 94, which are in turn connected to
levers 95, which embrace collars 96 sliding upon the actuating shafts 61, 70. The
collars 96 are provided with pins which pass through slots in the shafts, and are
connected to vertical rods 97, which move in axial openings in the shaft, and are con-
nected at their upper ends to toggle levers 98, which operate bars 99, which slide in
ways formed upon the upper sides of the arms 83, and are provided with tapering
ends, which enter V-shaped recesses 2 formed around the inner peripheries of the
frames 84. The recesses 2 are so positioned with relation to the stops 86 that when-
ever the bar 99 is forced into one of the recesses it will move the arm 83 and its
extension 88 slightly to the rearward so as to relieve the pressure upon any stop
with which the extension 88 is then in engagement, and thus leave the stop free to
fall to its normal position by its own weight as soon as it is permitted to do so by the
pattern or Jacquard mechanism.
The parts are so organized that whenever the rock-arms 79 are rocked in either
direction from their central position the rods 94 will operate to rock the levers 95 and
through the rods 97, and toggle levers 98 retract the bars 99 so as to permit the
arms 83 to revolve freely. As soon, however, as the rock-arms 79 are restored to their
central position, which will be the case whenever the shafts 23 are rocked to their
normal positions to unclutch the gears 63, 64, 72, 73, the rods 94 will operate to rock
the levers 95, and through the rods 97 and toggle levers 98 cause the bars 99 to enter
the recesses 2 and give a slight rearward movement to the arms 83 and extensions 88,
with the effect before stated.
The Jacquard mechanism shown for operating the plates 3 and the stops 86 is as to

page_text: its general features of the common form, and consequently requires but a brief description*
It consists primarily (see figures 1, 2, 15 and 16) of a series of cards P, which are
hinged together in an endless series in the manner usual in this class of mechanism.
The cards P correspond in number to the number of stitches involved in the pattern
to be embroidered, and each of the cards is provided with one or more perforations,
which indicate the direction or direction and extent of the movement of the tambour
frame for that stitch from the position it occupied for the preceding stitch.
The cards are supported in the usual manner, as indicated in Fig. 2, and pass over
the prism 41, the sides of which correspond to the size of the cards, and are provided
with openings corresponding to the openings in all of the cards of the series. The
prism 41 is also provided with sprockets which enter openings in the ends of the
cards, and serve to hold the cards in proper position upon the prism, and to advance
them as the prism is revolved.
Located in front of the prism 41 are a series of spring-seated feclers 42, corre-
sponding in number and position to the holes in all of the cards, and so arranged
that when the prism 41 is advanced so as to bring the card, which at any time is upon
its face against the ends of the feelers those feelers which correspond to the openings
in that particular card will pass through said openings, while the remaining
feelers will be acted upon by the solid portions of the card and he moved inward
against the tension of their springs. The feelers 42 are connected to a series of
hooks 43, corresponding in number to the feelers, and which. are normally in position
to be engaged by the bars of a vertically reciprocating head 44. The hooks 43
are connected by wires 36 with the respective rods 31, of the plates 3, and the
respective stops 86.
The gear His provided upon its outer face with a cam groove S, in which travels a
stud or bowl projecting from a vertical bar 46, the upper end of which is connected to
a rock-arm, 47, extending from a shaft 48 having rock-arms 49, which are connected
by links 74 with the head 44 in such manner that at each revolution of the shaft I the
head 44 is raised, thereby engaging with all of the hooks 43, the feelers 42 of which
have passed through openings in the Jacquard card. The link 74 is also connected
to one arm of a bell-crank lever 75, the opposite arm of which is connected by a
link 76 with a rocking frame 77, carrying the prism 41 in such a manner that when-
ever the bar 46 is depressed the frame 77 will be rocked inward and press the card
upon the prism 41 against the ends of the feelers, and that whenever the bar 46 is
raised the frame 77 will be rocked in the reverse direction so as to carry the prism 41
away from the feelers and at the same time through a suitable pawl and ratchet
mechanism impart a partial revolution to the prism.
For the purpose of restoring the stops 86 to their normal position in case they
should stick in the recesses 85 and not fall back to their normal position by their own
weight upon being released by the Jacquard mechanism, there are provided a pair of
annular frames 89, which are located above the stops 86 in position to engage with
the upper ends of all the stops. The two frames 89 will preferably be rigidly connected
or made integral as shown. The frames 89 are supported upon stantlards 65, which
are free to move vertically in guide openings in the frames $4, and are connected at
their lower ends to arms 45, extending from rock shafts 52. The shafts 52 are also
provided with arms 55, which are connected by a rod 40 so that the two shafts will be
caused to rock together, and one of the shafts is provided with an arm 39, which is
connected by a rod 38 with a rock-arm 37, which rocks freely upon the shaft I
and is provided with a bowl which enters a cam groove 34 formed in the vertically
moving bar 46.
On
From this organization it results that whenever the bar 46 is moved upward
to raise the head 44 and one or more of the stops 80, the arm 37 will be rocked
so as to rock the shafts 52 and raise the frames 89 away from the stops.
the other hand, whenever the bar 46 is depressed so as to lower the head 44 and
allow the stop or stops which has or have been raised to move back to their
normal position, the frames 89 will be moved downward so as to come against the
B

page_text: stop or stops which has or have been raised and force it or them back to its or their
normal position.
The frames 89 are provided with projections 33 having openings through which
the rods 31 of the plates 3 pass, and which act upon collars upon the rods so as to
force said rods downward when the frames are lowered in case the springs 35 should
fail to act properly.
The operation of the complete machine is as follows:
The shaft D being set in motion, the motion of that shatt will be communicated
through the gears which have been described to the shafts 1 and R. The cam S
upon the shaft I will operate to depress the bar 46, thereby moving downward the
head 44 of the Jacquard mechanisin so as to bring said head below the hooks 43,
the bars of the head heing so shaped as to allow the hooks to spring past them
as the head is depressed. As the head is thus depressed the frame 77 carrying
the prism 41 will be swung inward so as to press the card upon the face of the
prism against the ends of the feelers 42. Those feelers which meet the solid
portions of the card will be moved inward so as to move the corresponding hooks 43
away from over the bars of the head 44. Those feelers, however, which do not
meet the solid portions of the card will pass through the openings in the card
and will not be moved inward, and, as a consequence, the hooks 43 connected to
those feelers will remain in position to be engaged by the bars of the head 44 upon
its upward movement.
The particular hooks 43 which will thus be allowed to remain in position to be
engaged by the head 44 will be determined by the number and position of the per-
forations in the card which is upon the face of the prism 41, and these perforations
will in turn be determined by the direction and length of the stitch which is to be
taken.
For the purpose of this description it will be assumed that the stitch to be taken
requires that the tambour frame should be moved upward and to the left a distance
in each direction less than the maximum length of stitch which the machine is
capacitated to make. The card presented to the feelers 42 will therefore be pro-
vided with four openings 22 (see figure 16). Two of said openings will corre-
spond to the positions of the feelers which are connected with the books 43 for
moving the rods 31 and plates 3 for rocking the rods 27, 29 into position to be
engaged by the heads 56, 57, and two of said openings will correspond in positions to
the feelers 42 connected to the hooks 43 for moving the two stops 86 which are
located in proper positions (relative to the positions of the arms 83 after the last
stitch) to arrest said arms after the tambour frame has been moved the proper distance
in each direction.
As the shaft I continues its revolution, the cam S will raise the bar 46 and with it
the head 44, which will engage with the hooks 43, whose feelers have passed through
the openings in the card, and raise said hooks, thereby raising the plates 3 which
are connected to the rods 27, 29, and rocking said rods into position beneath the
shoulders 9 of the heads 56, 57, and at the same time raising the two stops 86 to
arrest the respective arms 83 after they have moved the required distance.
As the head 44 is moved upward, and after it has engaged with the hooks 43, it
will, through the connections which have been described, rock the frame 77 outward,
so as to remove the prism 41 from the ends of the feelers 42, and at the same time,
through the pawl and ratchet, give a partial turn to the prism to bring a new card
into position for the next stitch. As the bar 46 is moved upward, it will also, through
the connections which have been described, raise the frame $9 so as to permit the
upward movement of the stops 86, and plates 3.
As the shaft I continues its revolution, and directly after the head 44 has been
raised, as just described, the lever 50 will be depressed, thereby moving downward
the heads 56, 57, and causing them to engage with the rods 27, 29, which have been
rocked beneath the shoulders 9, so as to depress said rods, and thereby rock th
shafts 23, so as to remove the brakes 80 from the gears 62, 71, and rock the arms 79
Я

page_text: so as to raise the rods 97, and operate the toggle levers 98 to withdraw the
bars 99 from the recesses 2, and at the same time clutch the gears 63, 72, to the
shaft R.
As soon as the gears 63, 72, are clutched to the shaft R, the gears 62, 71, will be
set in motion, and will, through the connections which have been described, operate
the threaded rods f and w, to move the tambour frame upward and to the left, and
this movement will continue until the extensions 88 of the arms 83 are arrested by
coming into contact with the stops 86, which have been raised by the Jacquard
mechanism at which time the frame will have moved the proper distance upward and
to the left, to bring the fabric which it carries into proper position with relation to
the needles for the stitch. After the arms 83 have been arrested, the friction bands 91
will turn about the rims 90, and permit the gears 62, 71, to turn idly until they
are arrested by the unclutching of the gears 63, 72, as will be presently explained.
After the tambour frame has been arrested, the shaft I will continue its revolution
until it has completed something more than half a revolution from the point of
starting, when the arm 50 will be rocked in the reverse direction, thereby raising the
heads 56, 57.
Directly after the heads 56, 57, are thus raised, the cams 78 will, through the
arms 79, rock the shafts 23 back to their normal position, thereby unclutching the
gears 63, 72, from the shaft R, and at the same time applying the brakes 80 to
the gears 62, 71, and also, at the same time rocking the levers 95, so as to depress the
rods 97, and through the toggles 98 move the bars 99 into the recesses 2, so as to
move the extensions 88 of the arms 83 slightly away from the stops $6.
After this has been accomplished, the needle mechanism will be operated to form
the stitches in the fabric, and during the operation of the needles, the shaft I will
complete its revolution from the point of starting, and so the operation will continue
to be repeated.
As the bar 46 is moved downward to lower the head 44 and advance the prism 41
against the ends of the feelers 42 upon the next revolution of the shaft I, it will
through the connections which have been described depress the frames 89 so as to
restore to their normal position the plates 3 and stops 86 which have been raised, in
case the springs 35 should fail to act or the stops should stick and not move freely
backward to their normal position by their own weight.
The perforations in the cards for the successive stitches will be varied in number
from one to four according to the direction and extent of the movement of the
tambour frame required, for each succeeding stitch, from its position for the preceding
stitch, the positions of the perforations being varied upon the cards to correspond with
the positions of the feelers which control the direction and determine the extent of the
movement of the frame.
In practice there is always a possibility that some one or more of the hooks 43
which should engage with the head 44 upon its upward movement, may fail to engage
with the head so as to be raised and if this should occur it would result in the
production of an imperfect stitch. To obviate this, or at least to render the liability
of its happening extremely unlikely, it has been found desirable in practice to connect
the wires 36 of the rods 31 to two separate hooks and to provide the cards of the
Jacquard with duplicate perforations, as indicated by dotted lines in Figure 16*, so
that if the feeler for one of the hooks fails to enter its perforation in the card or it for
any other reason one of the hooks fails to engage with the frame 44, the other hook
will still be available to move the plate 3 with which the two hooks are connected.
For the same reason it has been found desirable to duplicate the perforations in the
card for controlling the stops 86, as also indicated by dotted lines in Figure 16ª, so.
that two adjacent stops will he raised. By this means, if for any reason, the hook
connected to one of the two stops fails to act to raise the stop, the other hook will act
to raise the adjacent stop and arrest the tambour frame in substantially the proper
position.
For the purpose of readily stopping and starting the machine without shifting the
belt F, the driving pulley E is mounted to turn freely upon the shaft D, and is

page_text: provided with a clutch mechanism (see Figures 17, 18 and 19) by which it can be
clutched to and released from the shaft at the will of the attendant.
This clutch mechanism is similar in construction to that employed in connection
with the gears upon the shaft R. It consists of a friction-band 100, located within
the rim of the pulley and having one end fixed to one of the arms extending from a
collar 101 upon the shaft. The free end of the band 100 is connected to the other of
the arms by means of a spring 102, the tendency of which is to contract the band so
as to reduce or entirely remove the friction between it and the rim of the pulley.
Fulcrumed upon the fixed end of the band is a lever 103 having a stud or set-screw
which abuts against a shoulder upon the free end of the band in such manner_as_to
expand the band and press it outward against the rim of the pulley. The shaft D also
carries a freely moving sleeve 104, having a wedge 105, the end of which enters
between the end of the lever 103 and a stud projecting from the collar 101, in such
manner as to rock the lever and expand the band, as before stated. The sleeve 104 is
provided with a circumferential groove into which enters a fork 124, carried by a
sliding-bar 106, which is connected to a hand lever 107, in such manner that the bar
can be shifted to insert and withdraw the wedge 105, and clutch and unclutch the
driving-pulley E, whenever it is desired to start and stop the machine.
As the parts of the machine are quite heavy and acquire considerable momentum
when in motion it is desirable in order to bring them to rest promptly when the
driving-pulley is unclutched from its shaft to provide a brake mechanism which will
be applied simultaneously with the unclutching of the pulley. For this purpose the
driving-shaft is provided with a brake-pulley T, against which works a brake-shoe 108,
which is fulcrumed to the frame-work, and is acted upon by an inclined plate 109,
carried by the bar 16, in such manner as to be applied to the pulley T simultaneously
with the unclutching of the pulley E, and rice versa.
After the machine has been stopped by the application of the brake-shoe 108, it is
sometimes desirable to remove the brake so as to permit the machine to be operated
slowly by hand while the pulley E remains unclutched from the driving-shaft. To
permit this the inclined plate 109 is pivoted to the bar 106, and is maintained in its
raised position so as to act upon the brake-shoe by means of a locking pin 140, which
passes through an opening in the plate and enters a corresponding opening in the bar.
This pin is provided with a pivoted hand-lever 110, by which it can be withdrawn
from the opening in the bar 106 so as to permit the plate 109 to rock downward and
remove the brake-shoe from the pulley when it is desired to operate the machine
without clutching the driving-pulley to the driving shaft. The hand-lever 110 is
acted upon by a spring 24, in sich manner as to normally hold the pin 140 within the
opening in the bar 106.
For the purpose of restoring the inclined plate 109, to its raised position after it has
been lowered, so that it will be in position to apply the brako upon the unclutching of
the pulley E, the plate is provided with an extension 26, which is arranged to engage
with an inclined shoulder 32, formed upon a stationary part of the framework, when-
ever the bar 106 is shifted so as to clutch the pulley E to the driving shaft, and thus
raise the plate 109 into position to permit the pin 140 to enter the opening in the
bar 106, and retain the plate in its raised position.
When the machine is temporarily stopped during the operation of embroidering a
pattern it is desirable that the parts should be arrested in such position that the
needles will be withdrawn from the fabric so that the fabric will be more readily
accessible at the immediate points where the stitches are being formed and so also that
the tambour frame can be moved and adjusted if desired.
To provide for this, one of the bearings of the shaft I is provided with an inwardly
extending boss 112, which forms a stationary sleeve around the shaft, and upon this
sleeve there is mounted to turn freely a disk 113, having a V-shaped recess in its
periphery, into which enters a spring-pressed pin 114, which acts to normally hold
the disk stationary. The disk 113 carries upon its inner face a pawl 115 having a
spring, the tendency of which is to rock the pawl inward into the path of a stud 116
carried by a collar 117 fixed upon the shaft I. The pawl 115 is carried upon a short

page_text: snait which passes through the disk and carries at its opposite end a curved arm 118
which is normally held in position to rock the pawl outward out of the path of the
stud 116, by means of a spring-pressed pin 119, which acts upon the outer side of the
arm 118. The disk 113 is also provided with a cam-shaped flange 120 which, when
the disk is revolved, as will be presently explained, engages with a stud 121 projecting
from the lower edge of the bar 106 in such manner as to move the bar inward and
unclutch the gear E from the shaft D and also apply the brake-she 108 to stop the
machine as before explained. The pin 119 is acted on by a wedge 122, which is so
arranged that when moved upward it will withdraw the pin 119 and release the
arm 118 so as to permit the pawl 1.5 to move inward into the path of the stud 116.
The wedge 122 is connected to a rod or other connection 123 which extends to a
point convenient to the attendant.
The operation of this automatic stopping mechanism is as follows: When the
attendant desires to stop the machine and arrest the parts in such position that the
needles will be withdrawn from the fabric he will, through the connection 123, operate
the wedge 122 so as to withdraw the pin 119 and release the arm 118. The pawl 115
will then be swung inward into the path of the stud 116 and as the shaft I revolves,
the stud 116 will come into engagement with the pawl 115 and cause the disk 113 to
revolve with the shaft. As the disk is thus revolved with the shaft I, the cam 120
will engage with the stud 121 and shift the bar 106 inward so as to unclutch the
gear E and at the same time apply the brake-shoe to the pulley T and stop the
machine, and the parts will be so timed that this will take place at the particular point
in the revolution of the shaft I when the needles are withdrawn from the fabric.
To start the machine again the attendant will, through the lever 107, shift_the.
bar 106 in the reverse direction so as to remove the brake and clutch the pulley E to
the shaft. The wedge 122 having in the meantime been released, will have moved
downward so as to permit the pin 118 to assume its normal position, and as the shaft I
revolves the arm 118 will come into engagement with the pin 119 and be rocked
inward so as to remove the pawl 115 from engagement with the stop 116 and thus
release the disk 113 from the shaft, and at the same time the pin 114 will enter the
V-shaped recess in the periphery of the disk and hold it in the position it occupies
when released from the shaft.
In addition to the means for stopping the machine by the hand lever, 107, or
automatically through the connections put in operation by the wedge, 122, it may in
some cases be desirable to provide means by which the machine will be automatically
stopped in case, for any reason, the pattern or Jacquard mechanism fails to raise the
proper stop or stops 86. If this should happen there would be nothing interposed in
the path of the arm or arms 83 and as a result said arm or arms would continue to
turn with its or their shaft or shafts until the gear or gears through which it it or
they are driven are unclutched from the shaft by the action of the cams, 78, and the
result would he that the tambour frame would be moved in one or both directions
more than the proper distance so that a stitch of improper length would be taken, thus
making a defect in the work which it would be desirable to correct before another
stitch was taken, and in such case as this it is desirable, as before stated, to stop the
machine at once.
Means for accomplishing this automatically is illustrated in Figs. 20 and 21. For
this purpose the pin, 119, is connected at its outer end to the armature, 125, of an
electro-magnet, 126, in such manner that when the magnet is energized the pin will
be withdrawn from engagement with the arm 118 and permit the pawl 115 to drop
into position to be engaged by the stop 116 and thus automatically stop the machine
as before explained. The electro-maguet 126 is herein illustrated as of the form in
which the cores are drawn into the helices, but it may be of ordinary form if
preferred. The opposite poles of the magnet 126 are connected by wires 127, 128,
with pairs of stationary metallic rings, 129, 130, which surround the respectivo
shafts, 61, 70. The arms 83 of the respective shafts, 61, 70, are provided with
brushes, 131, 132, which rest upon the respective rings, 129, 130, and maintain
contact. therewith, as, the armis 83 move with the shafts. The rings, 129, 130, are

page_text: insulated from each other and from their support and the brushes, 131, 132, are also
insulated from each other and from the arus 83. The arms 83 are provided upon
their upper sides with sliding heads 133 which move in ways formed in the upper
sides of the arms and carry feclers, 134, which extend downward at the sides of the
arms in position to enter the channeis formed by the recesses in the stops 86 when 5
said stops are in their depressed position. The heads 133 are provided with slots
through which pass pins 135, connected to the sliding bars 99 and located in the slots
in the heads 133 are springs 136 the tendency of which is to move the heads 133
outward against the pins 135. The brushes, 131, 132, are connected by wires, 137, 138,
with the opposite sides of the arms 83, said wires passing through insulating blocks in 1
the arms and terminating in contact points upon the inside of the ways in which the
heads 133 move. Opposite the terminals of the wires, 137, 158, the heads 133 are
recessed, as shown at 139, so as to be out of contact with the terininals of said wires
when the heads are in their normal position.
The operation of the apparatus thus organized is as follows:
When the toggle levers 98 are operated to advance the bars 99 into the recesses 2,
as hereinbefore explained, the springs 136 will cause the heads 133 and feelers 134 to
advance with them. If the arms 83 have been arrested by coming into contact with
the stops 86, as will be the case when the machine is operating properly, one of the
feelers 134 of each of the heads 133 will come into engagement with the stop which
has been raised to arrest the arm 83 and thereby arrest the feelers and the heads 133
before the heads have advanced sufficiently to come into contact with the
terminals of the wires 137, 138. The bars 99 will, however, continue to be
advanced against the tension of the springs 136. Neither of the circuits through the
magnet 126 will therefore be closed and the machine will not be stopped. If,
however, either one or both of the arms 83 fails to be arrested by a stop 86, which
will be the case when the pattern or Jacquard mechanism fails to properly operate the
stops, the feeler of the head 133 will not, as it is advanced by the movement of the
bar 99, meet with a stop but will enter the recess in the stop and permit the head 133
to be advanced with the bar 99 to the full extent of the movement of said bar, and
this will cause the head to be advanced so far as to bring its solid portions into contact
with the terminals of the wires 137, 138, and thereby complete a circuit through said
wires, the brushes and rings and the wires 127 or 128 as the case may be, and the
magnet 126 so as to withdraw the pin 119 and cause the machine to be automatically
stopped as hereinbefore explained. The circuits formed by the wires 127, 128, and
their connections will of course he supplied with suitable battery power, as indicated
at V. In order to prevent either of the circuits from being closed by the advance of
the feelers when the stops are restored to their depressed position by the downward
movement of frames 89, the circuits are provided with circuit closers and breakers
which are automatically operated to break the circuits before the bars 99 have quite
reached the limit of their inward movement, and maintain the circuits broken until
after the bars have been retracted a certain distance. For this purpose, each of the
cams 82 is made to form one member of a circuit closer for each of the circuits, one
wire being connected to the cam, and the other wire to a contact point located opposite
a recess 141 in the cam, and in such position that when the cam is in its mid-position,
the circuit will be broken, and that when the cam is rocked in either direction from
its mid position, the circuit will be closed, as indicated in Fig. 21.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. The combination with a tambour frame of a rotative actuating shaft by which
said frame is moved in opposite directions, movable stops for arresting said frame in
various positions, whereby the length of the stitches is determined, and a pattern
mechanism for controlling said stops, substantially as described.
2. The combination with a tambour frame, of a rotating actuating shaft, by which
said frame is moved in opposite directions, movable stops for arresting said frame in

page_text: various positions, whereby the length of the stitches is determined, a pattern mechanism
for controlling said stops, and a yielding connection between said shaft and its driver,
substantially as described.
3. The combination with the tambour frame and its two-part actuating shaft, a
yielding connection between the parts of said shaft, means for rotating the shaft in
opposite directions, movable stops for limiting the movement of the shaft, and a
pattern mechanism for controlling said stops, substantially as described.
4. The combination with the fambour frame and its two-part actuating shaft, of a
yielding connection between the parts of said shaft, reversing gearing for rotating
the shaft in opposite directions, movable stops for limiting the movement of the
shaft, clutches for coupling the reversing gearing, and a pattern mechanism for
controlling the action of the clutches, substantially as described.
5. The combination with the tambour frame and its two-part actuating shaft, of a
yielding connection between the parts of said shaft, reversing gearing for rotating
the shaft in opposite directions, movable stops for limiting the movement of the
shaft, clutches for coupling the reversing gearing, and pattern mechanisms for con-
trolling the clutches and stops, substantially as described.
6. The combination with the movable tambour frame and its driving shaft (R),
of a yielding connection for imparting movement to the frame from said shaft,
movable stops for limiting the movement of said frame, and a pattern mechanism
for controlling said movable stops, substantially as described.
7. The combination with the movable tambour frame, of a driving shaft (R), con-
necting mechanism, including reversing gearing, and a yielding connection, for
imparting movement from said shaft to the tambour frame in opposite directions,
movable stops for limiting the movement of the tambour frame in both directions,
and a pattern mechanism for controlling said stops, substantially as described.
8. The combination with the movable tambour frame, of a driving shaft (R), con-
necting mechanism, including reversing gearing, and a yielding connection for
imparting movement from said shaft to the tambour frame in opposite directions,
movable stops for limiting the movement of the tambour frame in both directions.
and a pattern mechanism for controlling said reversing gearing, to move the frame in
either direction, substantially as described.
9. The combination with the movable tambour frame, of a driving shaft (R),
connecting mechanism, including reversing gears, and a yielding connection for
imparting movement from said shaft to the tambour frame in opposite directions,
clutches for connecting and disconnecting said reversing gears, movable stops for
limiting the movement of the tambour frame in both directions, and a pattern
mechanism for controlling said stops, substantially as described.
10. The combination with the movable tambour frame, of a driving shaft (R),
connecting mechanism, including reversing gears, and a yielding connection for
imparting movement from said shaft to the tambour frame in opposite directions,
clutches for connecting and disconnecting said reversing gears, movable stops for
limiting the movement of the tambour frame in both directions, and a pattern
mechanism for controlling said clutches, to move the frame in either direction, sub-
stantially as described.
11. The combination with the movable tambour frame, of a driving shaft (R),
connecting mechanisms, each including reversing gearing. and yielding connections
for imparting movement from said shaft to the tambour frame in opposite directions,
and in directions crosswise of each other, and movable stops for limiting the move-
ment of the tambour frame in each direction, substantially as described.
12. The combination with the movable tambour frame, of a driving shaft (R),
connecting mechanism, including reversing gearing, and yielding connections for
imparting movement from said shaft to the tambour frame in opposite directions,
and in directions cross-wise of each other, and movable stops for limiting the move-
ment of the tambour frame in each direction, and a pattern mechanism for controlling
said stops, substantially as described.
13. The combination with the movable tambour frame, of a driving shaft (R)

page_text: connecting mechanism, including reversing gears, and yielding connections, for
imparting movement from said shaft to the tambour frame in opposite directions,
and in directions crosswise of each other, movable stops for limiting the movement
of the tambour frame in each direction, and a pattern mechanism for controlling
said reversing gearing, to move the frame in either direction, substantially as
described.
14. The combination with the movable tambour frame, of a driving shaft (R),
connecting mechanism, including reversing gears, and yielding connections, for
imparting movement from said shaft to the tambour frame in opposite directions,
and in directions crosswise of each other, clutches for connecting and disconnecting
said reversing gears, movable stops for limiting the movement of the tambour frame
in each direction, and pattern mechanisms for controlling said stops and said clutches,
to move the frame in either direction, substantially as described.
15. The combination with the tambour frame, and a driving shaft for moving the
same, of companion bevel wheels loose on said shaft, and geared with the tambour
frame actuating shaft, clutches for coupling said wheels to the shaft, and a pattern
mechanism for controlling the movements of said clutches, substantially as described.
16. The combination with the tambour frame, and a driving shaft for moving the
same, of companion bevel wheels loose on said shaft, and geared with the tambour
frame actuating shaft, clutches for coupling said wheels to the shaft, a yielding con-
nection between the driving shaft and tambour frame, movable stops for arresting
said frame, and pattern mechanisins for controlling the movements of the stops and
clutches, substantially as described.
17. The combination with the tambour frame, of the screw shafts and nuts f. g, for
imparting up and down movements to the frame and the rods b, each having a
universal joint at both its ends, for transmitting the movement derived from the shafts
and nuts to the frame, substantially as described.
18. The combination with the tambour frame of an embroidery machine, a gear
(60 or 69) for moving the same, and a yielding connection through which said gear
is driven, of an arm (84) moving with said gear and frame, and a series of movable
stops (86) for arresting the arm and frame without arresting the driving mechanism,
substantially as described.
19. The combination with the tambour frame of an embroidery machine, a gear
(60 or 69) for moving the same, and a yielding connection through which said gear
is driven, of an arm (83) moving with said gear and frame, and a series of movable
stops (86) for arresting the arm and frame without arresting the driving mechanism,
and a pattern mechanism for controlling said stops, substantially as described.
20. The combination with the tambour frame of an embroidery machine, a gear
(60 or 69) for moving the same in opposite directions, according to the direction in
which said gear is revolved, and a yielding connection through which said gear is
driven, of an arm (83) moving with said gear and frame, and a series of movable
stops (86) for arresting the arm and frame as they are moved in either direction,
without arresting the driving mechanism, and a pattern mechanism for controlling
said stops, substantially as described.
21. The combination with the tambour frame of an embroidery machine, a gear
(60 or 69) for moving the same, and a yielding connection through which said gear
is driven, of an arm (83) moving with said gear & frame, and a series of movable
stops (86) for arresting the arm and frame without arresting the driving mechanism,
and means for imparting a slight backward movement to said arm after it has been
arrested, to release the stop, substantially as described.
22. The combination in an embroidery machine, of a driving shaft (R), a loose
gear (63 or 64), means for imparting its movement to the tambour frame, a clutch
for connecting and disconnecting said gear to and from the shaft, a movable rod
(27 or 28) connected to operate said clutch to clutch the gear, and a reciprocating
head (56) arranged to engage with said rod or not, according to the position of the
rod, and a pattern mechanism for controlling the position of said rod, substantially as
described.

page_text: 23. The combination, in an embroidery machine, of a driving shaft (R), loose
reversing gears (63-64), means for imparting their movement to the tambour frame
in reverse directions, clutches for connecting and disconnecting said gears to and
from the shaft, movable rods (27-28) connected to operate said respective clutches, to
clutch the gears, and a reciprocating head (56) arranged to engage with one of said
rods or not, according to the position of the rods, substantially as described.
Dated this 23rd day of July 1889.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.