IMPROVE- MENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Daniel Mills, of Brooklyn, New York, United
States of America, now of Aston, Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Mechanical Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.”
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Daniel Mills at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
9th December 1875.
I, DANIEL MILLS, of Brooklyn, New York, United States of America,
now of Aston, Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Mechanical
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "Iм-
PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES,”.
to be as follows:
My Invention relates to improvements in the construction of machines
whose general character is set forth in the Specifications of former
Letters Patent, dated the 29th day of July, A.D. 1868, No. 2378, and
"

page_text: other Letters Patent subsequently granted to me or to my agents for
Inventions communicated by me.
The machines described in the Specifications of the said former Letters
Patent are designed for sewing welts to the insole and upper and
stitching the outsole to the welt, and also sewing on the soles of turned
shoes. These operations have hitherto required two machines of different
construction, but by my present Invention these different classes of work
can be done on one machine.
The machines to which my Invention relates have a curved needle,
which has a reciprocating motion around an axis, and operates in com-
bination with a looper, a feed dog, and other devices actuated by suitable
cams, the whole of the mechanism being supported in a strong head
placed on a stand in such a manner as to permit the work to be properly
presented to the machine.
My present improvements consist partly in the peculiar construction
of the head or frame and in the construction and arrangement of the
needle and other parts of the sewing mechanism whereby I am enabled
to produce a machine for the purposes specified which will be certain
and reliable in the performance of its functions, simple of construction
and operation, durable, and easy of repair.
In all my previous machines the head or frame in which are mounted
the several parts of the mechanism has been cast in one piece, but
according to my present Invention the head is made in two parts, which
are well faced and fitted together and secured with three bolts and form
strong jaws, between which the cams and other parts of the mechanism
are arranged, and these jaws have bearings bored or drilled in them for
the reception of the shafts and other parts of the said mechanism. This
construction of the head greatly facilitates the taking of the machine to
pieces for cleaning or other purposes.
The needle lever is formed or rigidly fixed upon a shaft or axis, which
is supported to vibrate freely in bearings in the two halves of the head
or frame. It is so constructed that its inner arm extends to and works
with a friction roller in a groove in one side of one of the aforesaid
cams, thus receiving its motion direct from its cam. Its shaft or axis
forms a bearing, upon which work the needle shield lever, cast-off lever,
and back gauge lever. The needle is fitted in a groove in the outer or

page_text: lower arm of the needle lever, and is secured therein by a screw clamp
or other suitable device. The said needle has a radius much greater
than that of the needles used in the machines described in the said
former Specifications.
The needle shield lever, which, as above stated, is mounted to vibrate
freely on the shaft or axis of the needle lever, is so constructed and
operated that it is positive in its action. On the inner end or arm of
said needle shield lever is a roller which works in a groove in another
of the said cams, from which it receives the required motion. On its
other end is mounted the needle shield, which is secured by two screws
or other suitable means, and this end of the needle shield lever works in
close proximity to the needle lever, and both levers work and are guided
in an open cavity or recess in the frame or head. The objects of this
arrangement are to prevent lateral motion of the needle and needle
shield, and to provide bearing surfaces so large that they will wear a
considerable time before there is sufficient lateral motion to seriously
interfere with the proper working of their parts, this object being also
partly effected by the large axis of the needle lever.
The cast-off lever is mounted on the other side of the needle lever shaft
or axis. Its inner end is provided with a roller arranged to work upon the
periphery of another of the said cams, which imparts to it the required
motion. On the outer end of this lever is mounted the cast-off, secured
thereon by two screws or other suitable devices. The roller on the
inner end of this lever is kept in contact with the cam by a small spiral
spring which extends diagonally across the needle lever to the needle
shield lever, and is connected to the two levers in such a manner as to
tend always to pull the cast-off towards the needle while allowing the
cast-off to adjust itself to the various thicknesses of the materials being
sewn.
The back gauge lever is arranged on the needle lever shaft arm or
axis in close proximity to the cast-off lever. On the outer end of this
back gauge lever is mounted a roller, which works against another of
the aforesaid cams. The inner end of this lever has a broad flat surface,
against which works the head of a bolt forming part of the locking
mechanism herein-after described. On the same end or arm of the lever
is mounted the back gauge by two screws or other suitable means.
roller end of this lever has attached to it a variable spring, whose.
The

page_text: function is to press the back gauge upon the work with a variable
pressure according to the thickness of the material being sewn.
The aforesaid locking mechanism which acts on the inner end of the
said back gauge lever comprises a screw bolt, preferably square-threaded,
working in a socket or nut with a like thread, and fixed or formed in the
frame or head. On the outer end of this threaded bolt is mounted a
lever clamp; this lever clamp is bored to fit the outer end of the said
bolt, and is cut through on one side and formed with jaws which have
a pinching screw passed through them, by the tightening of which screw
the said jaws are caused to clamp the bolt. The outer end of the clamp
lever is provided with a roller, which works against another of the said
cams. This cam imparts to it a reciprocating rotating motion in one.
direction against the force of a spiral spring, which actuates it in the
other direction, and which is attached to the lever close to the roller
and to the frame or head. This spring serves as the locking power by
causing the clamp lever to turn the said bolt in the proper direction
to cause the latter to be forced against the aforesaid broad flat
surface of the back gauge lever, and hold the same until it is unlocked,
this unlocking being effected positively by the said cam. The object
of this locking mechanism is to prevent the moving of the back gauge,
except at the proper time, that is to say, during the time the needle
is withdrawing from the work, and until the stitch has been pulled up.
The feed dog has two motions, a reciprocating motion on its axis.
whereby it is caused to enter and leave the material at each stroke, and
a transverse or lateral feeding motion. The lever upon which the feed
dog is mounted is formed upon an axis or shaft, which is fitted to turn
and slide freely in bearings in the two jaws or halves of the head or.
frame. This lever has on its extremity a roller, which works on the
periphery of one of the cams, and thereby receives the required recipro-
cating or vibratory motion on its axis. Near one end of the shaft or
axis I form therein a slot or long aperture, into which extends the point
of a lever, which is actuated by another of the said cams to give
the lateral or transverse motion to the feed dog. The said shaft or
axis of the feed dog lever is made hollow, and has near the said slot
about three-quarters of an inch of its length screw-threaded to receive
an adjusting screw, which extends through the hollow portion of the
shaft, and has a head and binding or locking nut outside the end of

page_text: "
the same.
The inner end of this screw projects into the said slot, and
forms one end or surface, against which the lever acts, and by the
adjustment of the said screw I give more or less "lost motion or space,
through which the lever can move without acting on the said shaft, and
thereby regulate the length of the stitches. The aforesaid roller is held
against its cam by means of a small spring. The feed dog is fastened
to the lower end of the said feed dog lever by two screws or other
suitable means. In combination with the said feed dog and immediately
above the same I place a set screw, which greatly facilitates the setting
or adjustment of the feed dog in relation to the needle, thereby pre-
venting the loss of time and uncertainty as to the proper position of the
feed dog when its height has to be varied.
The looper also has a reciprocating motion on its axis and a lateral
or transverse motion, the compound movement resulting therefrom
being required for the proper looping of the thread into the barb of the
needle.
The reciprocating movement of the looper around its shaft or axis is
derived from a lever formed or fixed on the said shaft or axis and
working in a long bearing in one of the halves of the head or frame.
One arm of this lever is provided with a roller which works against the
periphery of a cam fixed on the needle cam disc, the said rolier being
held against its cam by means of a spiral spring which is attached by
one end to the lever near the roller, and by its other end to the head or
frame; the looper is fastened to the other arm or end of its lever by two
screws or other suitable devices. The shaft or axis has a long aperture
or slot, in which works one extremity of a lever that imparts to the said
shaft the required lateral motion; on its other end this lever bas a roller,
which works in a cam groove, from which it derives its lateral motion.
The result of this combined motion is to cause the looper to describe
a path suitable for the proper looping of the thread into the barb of the
needle.
The machine as above described is intended for welting or turn seaming.
When it is required for stitching the outsole to the welt I partially
fill up the cam groove, which gives to the feed dog lever its recipro-
cating movement on its axis by putting in a piece, which causes
the feed dog to take hold of the work as soon as it has reached the end
of its backward motion.
:

page_text: When stitching the outsole to the welt I also employ a channel
opener, which is mounted on the feed dog lever immediately in advance
of the feed dog, and in such a manner as to participate in the lateral
motion only of the said feed dog lever. The point of this opener is
caused to travel in a parallel plane near the bottom of the channel,
and so open the channel in case it has been accidentally or otherwise
closed.
I use a thread guide consisting of a roller mounted on a screw pin or
stud fixed in a projection on the front of the head; this guide is arranged
to deliver the thread properly to the said looper. Under this projection
I arrange a gas jet or lamp for warming the wax thread to make it soft
and pliable.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Daniel Mills in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 2nd June 1876.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, DANIEL
MILLS, of Brooklyn, New York, United States of America, now of
Aston, Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Mechanical Engineer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of December, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-
ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Daniel Mills, Her special licence
that I, the said Daniel Mills, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Daniel Mills, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES," upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said Daniel Mills, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one

page_text: of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to
be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Daniel Mills, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings
forming a part of this Specification:-
My Invention relates to improvements in the construction of machines
whose general character is set forth in the Specifications of former
Letters Patent, dated the 29th day of July, A.D. 1868, No. 2378, and
other Letters Patent subsequently granted to me or to my agents for
Inventions communicated by me.
The machines described in the Specifications of the said former Letters
Patent are designed for sewing a welt to the insole and upper, for
stitching the outsole to the welt, and also for sewing the sole upon a
"turned" shoe. These operations have hitherto required two separate
machines of different construction; but by my present Invention I
provide mechanism which renders one machine capable of performing
efficiently all of these various kinds of work.
The machines to which my Invention relates belong to a class of
sewing machines whose characteristic features are a curved needle
which has a reciprocating motion or partial rotation to and fro around
an axis, and operates in combination with a looper and feed dog, and
other devices actuated by suitable cams, the whole of the mechanism
being supported in a strong head placed on a stand in such a manner as
to permit the work to be properly presented to the sewing mechanism."
My present improvements consist partly in the peculiar construction
of the head or frame, and in the construction and arrangement of the
needle and the other parts of the sewing mechanism, whereby I am
enabled to produce for the purposes specified a machine which will be
certain and reliable in the performance of its functions, of simple con-
struction and operation, durable, and easily repaired.
In the accompanying Drawing I have shown a machine constructed

page_text: Figure 1 is an elevation of one side of my macuine; Figure is an
clevation of the other side of the same.
Figure 3 is a front elevation of the said machine.
Figure 4 is a side elevation, shewing the needle and needle shield and
their operative mechanism.
Figure 5 is a side elevation, shewing the cast off and lever and cam
for operating the same.
Figures 6 and 7 are side elevations, showing the back gauge, the feed
dog and looper, and mechanism for operating them.
Figure 8 is a side elevation, shewing a cam and lever forming part of
locking mechanism herein-after described.
Figure 9 is a longitudinal section of a portion of the said locking
mechanism.
Figures 10 and 11 illustrate modifications of my Invention herein-.
after described.
Like letters indicate corresponding parts in each of the Figures.
In all my previous machines the head or frame in which are mounted
the several parts of the mechanism has been cast in one piece; but
according to my present Invention the head A is made in two
parts A, A, which are well faced and fitted together, and secured with
three bolts a, b, c, and form strong jaws between which the cams and
other parts of the mechanism are arranged, and these jaws have bearings
bored or drilled in them for the reception of the shafts and other parts
of the said mechanism. This construction of the head greatly facilitates
the taking of the machine to pieces for cleaning or other purposes.
g
The needle is shewn at d. e is the needle shield; f is the cast off;
is the back gauge; h is the feed dog; i is the looper; k is the main
shaft upon which the cams are placed, and which is supported to turn
freely in bearings ¹ in the two sides of the head A. The construction
and combination of these parts and the devices for giving to each its
peculiar action in such a manner that they all co-operate in the required
manner may be clearly understood by the following description :-
The needle lever d¹ is formed or rigidly fixed upon a shaft or axis d²,
which is supported to vibrate freely in suitable bearings in the halves of
the head or frame. This lever d' is provided with an antifriction roller d*,
which runs in a groove cam 1, Figure 6, in the said lever, thus receiving

page_text: its motion direct from the said cam; its shaft or axis forms a bearing
upon which work the needle shield lever e¹, cast off lever f¹, and back
gauge lever g¹. The needle d is fitted in. a groove d³ in the arm of
the needle lever d³, and is secured therein by a screw clamp d³
or other suitable device. The said needle has a radius much greater
than that of the needles used in the machines described in the said
former Specifications, and this increased radius causes it to act very
advantageously.
The needle shield lever.e¹, which, as above stated, is mounted to
vibrate freely on the shaft or axis d² of the needle lever, is so constructed
and operated that it is positive in its action. On the inner end or arm
of the said needle shield lever is a roller e² which works in a groove
cam m, Figure 4, from which it receives the required motion. On its
other end is mounted the needle shield e, which is secured by two
screws or other suitable means; and this end of the needle shield lever
works in close proximity to the needle lever, and both levers work and
are guided in an open cavity or recess at n in the frame or head A, as
shewn in Figure 3. The objects of this arrangement are to prevent
lateral motion of the needle and needle shield and to provide bearing
surfaces so large that they will wear a considerable time before there is
sufficient lateral motion to seriously interfere with the proper working
of these parts, which objects are to a certain extent effected by the large
axis of the needle lever.
cam o by a small
The cast-off lever f¹ is mounted on the needle lever shaft or axis d².
Its inner end is provided with a roller få arranged to work upon the
periphery of the cam o, which imparts to it the required motion. On
the outer end of this lever is mounted the cast off f, secured thereon by
two screws, as shewn, or by other suitable devices. The roller on the
inner end of this lever is kept in contact with the
spiral spring f³, which extends diagonally across the needle lever to the
needle shield lever, and is connected to these two levers in such a
manner as to tend always to pull the cast off towards the needle while
allowing the cast off to adjust itself to the various thicknesses of the
materials being sewn.
The back gauge lever g¹ is arranged on the needle lever shaft arm or
axis d in close proximity to the cast off lever fl. On one end of this
back gauge lever g¹ is mounted a roller g², which works against the

page_text: cam p. The other end of this lever has a broad flat surface at g³,
against which works the head of a bolt forming part of the locking
mechanism herein-after described. On the same end or arm of the lever g¹
is mounted the back gauge g secured by two screws or other suitable
means. The roller end of the lever g' has attached to it a spring g', e
whose function is to press the back gauge g upon the work with a
variable pressure according to the thickness of the material being
sewn. The spring extends across the head, and is provided with a
screw nut at g³, whereby its tension may be regulated as required.
The aforesaid locking mechanism, which acts on the inner end of the 1
back gauge lever g¹, comprises a screw bolt 9, preferably square
threaded, working in a socket or nut with a like thread, and fixed or
formed in the frame or head A, as most clearly shown in Figure 9. On
the outer end of this threaded bolt q is mounted a lever clamp r. This
lever clamp is bored to fit the outer end of the bolt q, and is cut through 1
on one side, as shewn at r¹, and formed with jaws 2, 3, which have a
pinching screw passed through them; by the tightening of this
screw the said jaws are forced together and caused to clamp the bolt q.
The outer end of the clamp lever is provided with a roller ³, which
works against the cam s. This cam imparts to the said lever a 2
vibrating or rocking motion in the direction of the arrow 1 against the
force of the spiral spring t, which tends to pull it in the opposite
direction, and which is attached to the said lever at r and to the frame
or head A at. This spring serves as the locking power by causing
the clamp lever to turn the bolt q in the proper direction to cause the 2
latter to be forced against the aforesaid broad flat surface g³ of the back
gauge lever g¹ and hold the same until it is unlocked, this unlocking
being effected positively by the cams when the high portion thereof
passes under the roller 70. The object of this locking mechanism is to
prevent the moving of the back gauge except at the proper time, that
is to say, in the interval of time when the needle is withdrawn from the
work, and before the stitch just formed has been pulled up.
The feed dog has two motions, namely, a reciprocating motion on
its axis, whereby it is caused to enter and leave the material at each
stroke, and a transverse or lateral motion, which feeds or moves the
work forward. The lever ¹, upon which the feed dog h is mounted,
is formed upon an axis or shaft h³, which is fitted to both turn or
rotate and to slide freely endwise in bearings at h* in the two jaws or

page_text: halves of the head or frame A. This lever has on its extremity a
roller, which works on the periphery of the cam u, and thereby
receives the required reciprocating or vibratory motion on its axis.
Near one end of this shaft or axis h² I form through it a long aperture
or slot, into which extends the point of a lever h³ that is actuated by
the cam groove u₁ acting on the roller h¹¹ to give the lateral or trans-
verse reciprocating feed motion to the feed dog h. The shaft or axis ha
of the feed dog lever is made hollow, and has near the said slot a portion
of its length screw threaded to receive an adjusting screw h³, which
extends through the hollow portion of the shaft, and has a head h and
The inner
a binding or locking nut h³ outside the end of the same.
end of this screw projects into the said slot * and forms the end or
surface against which the lever h³ acts in its back or return stroke;
and by the adjustment of the said screw I give more or less "lost
motion or space, through which the lever h¹ can move without acting
on the said shaft, and thereby regulate the feed and length of the
stitches. The roller ³ is held against its cam u by means of a small
spring h¹. The feed dog h is fastened to the lower end of the said feed
dog lever h¹ by two screws, as shewn, or by other suitable means.
In combination with the said feed dog, and immediately above the
same, I place a set screw h³, which greatly facilitates the setting or
adjustment of the feed dog in relation to the needle, thereby preventing
the loss of time and uncertainty as to the proper position of the feed
dog h when its height has to be varied.
"
The looper i also has a reciprocating motion on its axis, and a lateral
or transverse motion, the compound movement resulting therefrom
being required for the proper looping of the thread into the barb of the
needle d.
"
The reciprocating movement of the looper i around its shaft or axis ¿¹
is derived from a lever formed or fixed on the said shaft or axis, and
working in a long bearing at in the part A¹ of the head or frame A.
One arm of this lever is provided with a roller, which works against
the periphery of a cam v fixed on the needle cam disc, the said roller
being held against its cam v by means of a spiral spring, which is
5 attached at one end to the lever at i, and by its other end to the head
or frame A. The looper i is fastened to the other arm or end 28 of its
lever by two screws, as shewn, or by other suitable devices. The shaft

page_text: or axis has a long aperture or slot 2, in which works one extremity of
a lever 21, that imparts to the said shaft the required lateral motion; on
its other end this lever has a roller ", which works in a cam groove v¹,
from which it derives its lateral motion. The result of this combined
motion of the looper i in combination with the needle is to cause the
looper to describe a path suitable for the proper looping of the thread
into the barb of the said needle.
or axis has a long aperture or slot, in which works one extremity of
a lever, that imparts to the said shaft the required lateral motion ; on
its other end this lever has a roller ", which works in a cam groove v¹,
from which it derives its lateral motion. The result of this combined
motion of the looper i in combination with the needle is to cause the
looper to describe a path suitable for the proper looping of the thread
into the barb of the said needle.
The machine as above described is intended for the varieties of work
known in the manufacture of boots and shoes as "welting" or
" turn-
seaming."
When it is required for stitching the outsole to the welt of a boot or
shoe I modify the said Invention, as shewn in Figure 10, that is to say,
I fill up the cam groove, which as above described gives to the feed dog
lever its reciprocating movement on its axis, by putting in a piece w,
which causes the feed dog to take hold of the work as soon as it has
reached the end of its backward motion.
When stitching the outsole to the welt I also employ a channel
opener x, shown in Figure 11, and which is mounted on the feed dog
lever immediately in advance of the feed dog, and in such a manner as
to participate in the lateral motion only of the said feed dog lever.
The point x¹ of this opener is caused to travel in a parallel plane near the
bottom of the channel for the stitching in the sole, and so open the said
channel in case it should have been accidentally or otherwise closed.
I provide the machine with a thread guide consisting of a roller y
mounted on a screw pin or stud y¹ fixed in a projection on the front of
the head. This guide is arranged to deliver the thread properly to the
said looper. Under this projection I arrange a gas jet or lamp for
warming the waxed thread to make it soft and pliable.
Having thus fully described my said Invention and the manner of
performing the same, I wish it understood that I claim,-
First. The machine head made in two halves or parts constructed and
fitted together, as herein set forth and for the purpose specified.
Second. The needle lever with the curved needle mounted thereon,
actuated directly by the cam, and constructed and operating as herein
set forth.
:

page_text: Third. The needle shield lever, constructed as shewn, and mounted to
vibrate freely on the shaft or axis of the needle lever, and carrying the
needle shield; which operates in combination, with the needle, as herein
set forth and for the purpose specified.
Fourth. The cavity or recess in the head for supporting and guiding
the needle, lever and needle shield lever, and formed and arranged in
combination with the said levers, as herein set forth.
Fifth. The cast-off lever actuated directly from its cam, and connected
to the needle shield lever by a spring, and so arranged and operating in
combination with the needle lever and needle as to ensure the required
co-operation of the needle, the needle shield, and cast-off, as herein set
forth.
Sixth. The back gauge lever, constructed and carrying the back gauge
as shewn, and working upon the needle lever shaft or axis, and actuated
directly by its cam, and arranged and operating in combination with
the locking mechanism, as above described and for the purpose specified.
Seventh. The combination of the back gauge lever, the variable spring
for pressing the back gauge upon the work, and the locking mechanism,
as above described and for the purpose set forth.
Eighth. The combination with the feed dog lever, constructed,
mounted, and operating as described, of the set screw over the feed dog,
as herein set forth and for the purpose specified.
Ninth. The looping mechanism, constructed and operating in com-
bination with the needle, as above specified.
Tenth. The means herein described for "timing" or regulating the
action of the feed dog when the machine is used for stitching the outsole
to the welt of a boot or shoe, as above set forth.
Eleventh. The channel opener, arranged and operating in com-
bination with the feed dog, as herein described, for the purpose set
forth.
Twelfth. A sewing machine for the manufacture of boots and shoes
which has a needle, a needle shield, a cast-off, a back gauge, a feed dog,
a locking device, a looper, and their actuating cams and connections,
mounted in a suitable frame or bed, and constructed and arranged to

page_text: co-operate in the required manner to ensure the proper working of the
machine, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Daniel Mills, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of April, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-six.
DANIEL MILLS. (L.S.)