Improvements in Stiffenings for Bodices, Jackets and the like.
Year: 1899

page_text: Improvements in Stiffenings for Bodices, Jackets and the like.
I, AUGUSTE VERW. LASKA (née Oehler), of 29, Hohestrasse, Leipzig, Germany,
no occupation, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the stiffening or interlining material used in ladies'
bodices and coats, gentlemen's coats and tunics, and the like.
In order that articles of clothing for ladies and gentlemen may fit well, and
look well, so called stiffenings made of some stiff but permeable material are
employed. These stiffenings must be made to correspond with the figure and this
has hitherto been effected exclusively by the "laying of folds" (plaiting) so as to
roughly imitate the figure, or the stiffenings have been composed of a number
of strips. All stiffenings of this kind, however, have the disadvantage that the
object intended, viz. the exact imitation of, or moulding to, the figure has been
but imperfectly effected, and further, that the accumulation of material in
forming the folds causes uneven pressure and friction and interferes with the
inovements of the body. This invention is accordingly intended to obviate these
disadvantages by stamping and moulding the permeable material in the shape
desired, so that the stiffenings are of approximately the same thickness throughout.
The accompanying drawing illustrates a stiffening of this nature, intended for
the breast or bust. Such a stiffening is usually made of a gauze-like fabric, pro-
duced by weaving, knitting or plaiting. It may, however, be made of any other
suitable kind of material such as leather, cane or the like. Finally cellulose may
be employed, the material used being rendered pervious to the air, in any.
suitable manner, e.g. by means of numerous small perforations, or otherwise, in
order that the natural action of the skin may not be impeded. Material of this
kind can be moulded or pressed into the form shown in the drawing (which, as
already stated, represents by way of example, a portion of the lining or stiffening
as shaped for the bodice of a lady's dress) if it be only sufficiently elastic to
give," so that the "hollow" or cup for the bust and breast can be pressed out.
So far as materials of the kind are of such a nature as to retain the form in
which they have been once stamped and moulded, they require no further prepara-
tion. Other materials, on the contrary, before being stamped and moulded require
some sort of preparatory treatment. They may, for instance, be steeped in a
solution of starch, shellac, or celluloid. In this way the material is enabled to
retain the shape or form to which it is moulded or pressed.
66
In this manner, every kind of fabric is prepared which retains the form given
to it by pressing.
Stiffenings of the kind now referred to are specially serviceable in cases where
it is desirable that the articles of clothing shall look well for as long a time
as they are worn, that is to say, those worn by ladies or the military. Such

page_text: stiffenings can, however, be used equally well for concealing defects in the figure
and imparting an agreeable appearance to the latter.
Dated this 28th day of November 1899.
I, AUGUSTE VERW. LASKA (née Oehler), of 29, Hohestrasse, Leipzig, Germany,
no occupation, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
This invention relates to the stiffening or inter-lining material used in ladies'
bodices and coats, gentlemen's coats and tunics, and the like.
In order that articles of clothing for ladies and gentlemen may fit well, and
look well, so-called stiffenings made of some stiff but permeable material are
employed. These stiffenings must be made to correspond with the figure and this
has hitherto been effected exclusively by the "laying of folds" (plaiting) so as
roughly to imitate the figure, or the stiffenings have been composed of a number
of strips. All stiffenings of this kind, however, have the disadvantage that the
object intended, viz. the exact imitation of, or moulding to, the figure has been
but imperfectly effected, and further, that the accumulation of material in form-
ing the folds causes uneven pressure and friction and interferes with the move-
ments of the body. This invention is accordingly intended to obviate these
disadvantages by stamping and moulding the permeable material in the shape
desired, so that the stiffenings are of approximately the same thickness through-
out.
The drawing which was filed with my Provisional Specification, illustrates a
stiffening of this nature intended for the breast or bust. Such a stiffening is
usually made of a gauze-like fabric, produced by weaving, knitting or plaiting.
It may, however, be made of any other suitable kind of material such as leather,
cane or the like. Finally cellulose may be employed, the material used being
rendered pervious to the air, in any suitable manner, e.g. by means of numerous
small perforations, or otherwise, in order that the natural action of the skin may
not be impeded. Material of this kind can be moulded or pressed into the form
shown in the drawing (which, as already stated, represents by way of example,
a portion of the lining as shaped for the bodice of a lady's dress) if it be only
sufficiently elastic "to give," so that the hollow or cup for the bust and breast
can be pressed out. So far as materials of the kind are of such a nature as to
retain the form in which they have been once stamped and moulded, they require
no further preparation. Other materials, on the contrary, before being stamped
and moulded, require some sort of preparatory treatment. They may, for instance,
be steeped in a solution of starch, shellac or celluloid. In this way the material
is enabled to retain the shape or form to which it is moulded or pressed.
In this manner, every kind of fabric is prepared, which retains the form
given to it by pressing.
Stiffenings of the kind now referred to are specially serviceable in cases where
it is desirable that the articles of clothing shall look well for as long a time
as they are worn, that is to say, those worn by ladies or the military. Such

page_text: stiffenings can, however, be used equally well for concealing defects in the figure.
and imparting an agreeable appearance to the latter.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
Stiffenings made of material which is permeable to the air and which is
moulded or pressed out to any desired shape, so as to form stiffenings of as nearly
as possible uniform thickness, substantially as above described.
Dated this 27th day of June 1900.
For the Applicant,
GEDGE & FEENY,
Chartered Patent Agents,
60, Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C.