IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Sutton of Leicester in the County of Leicester
Cigar merchant and William Kirkland of Leicester aforesaid boot and
sboe manufacturers foreman for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES "
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Sutton and William
Kirkland at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 6th December
1883.
CHARLES SUTTON of Leicester in the County of Leicester, Cigar Merchant and
WILLIAM KIRKLAND of Leicester aforesaid Boot and Shoe manufacturers foreman,
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
">
The object of our invention is to enable us to use English Butts or bends,
shoulders or bellies-American or Australian sides or any other thick leather for
the soles and upper leathers of boots and shoes-such upper leathers being now
made of calf kid, kid or other similar material which are more expensive than
those we now propose to use. At the same time our invention enables us to
dispense with the insole-heel stiffenings-toe puffs-and all side linings or linings
of any description.
To carry out our invention we take a hide of any of the above named kinds of
leather and cut it up into the necessary shapes for upper leathers by means of a
knife under a press as soles are now cut-we thus dispense with the operation of
clicking.
The pieces so cut out would be too thick and stiff for the purpose if left of their
original substance-we therefore before proceeding further shave or reduce those
portions of the upper which are required thin-leaving the lower margins to
which the sole is afterwards attached the heel-the toe and the lower part of the
side of such greater or less thickness as may be desired.
The upper leather thus prepared is now blocked or pressed into the form it is
desired to take, the lower margins being turned inwards so as nearly or quite to
meet it is then placed upon the last-which fits it so that the lasting process
is dispensed with.

page_text: The sole is now attached to the above mentioned thick margins either by
rivetting pegging-hand or machine sewing
If we wish to make a hand sewn or fair stitched boot or shoe with a welt-the
above mentioned margins are turned out instead of being turned in-thus forming
a welt to which the sole is sewn.
Instead of making the whole upper of the above-named material we can if
desired make the golosh or vamp only in the manner described-the upper
quarters being made of any desired materials.
By using one kind of leather of graduated thickness and leaving those parts
thick which are most exposed to wear or are required for the attachments of the
boots, we can dispense with the usual insole-heel stiffening and toe puff.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Charles Sutton and William Kirkland in the Patent Office on
the 6th June 1884.
CHARLES SUTTON of Leicester in the County of Leicester, Cigar Merchant and
WILLIAM KIRKLAND of Leicester aforesaid, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer's Foreman.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
"
The object of our invention is to enable us to use English Butts or bends,
shoulders or bellies-American or Australian sides or any other thick leather for
the upper leathers of boots and shoes-such upper leathers being now made
of calf kid, kid or other similar material which are more expensive than those
we now propose to use. At the same time our invention enables us to dispense
with the insole-heel stiffenings-toe puffs and all side linings or linings of any
description
To carry out our invention we take a hide of any of the above named kinds of
leather and cut it up into the necessary shapes for upper leathers by means of a
knife under a press as soles are now cut. We thus dispense with the operation of
clicking
"
The pieces so cut out would be too thick and stiff for the purpose if left of their
original substance. We therefore before proceeding further shave or reduce those
portions of the upper which are required thin, leaving the lower margins to which
the sole is afterwards attached, the heel, the toe and the lower part of the side of
such greater or less thickness as may be desired
The upper leather thus prepared is now blocked or pressed into the form it is
desired to take, the lower margins being turned inwards so as nearly or quite to
meet-it is then placed upon the last-which fits it so that the lasting process is
dispensed with
The sole is now attached to the above mentioned thick margins either by
rivetting pegging, hand or machine sewing
If we wish to make a hand sewn or fair stitched boot or shoe with a welt the
above mentioned margins are turned out instead of being turned in thus forming
a welt to which the sole is sewn.
Instead of making the whole upper of the above named material we can if
desired make the golosh or vamp only in the manner described--the upper
quarters being made of any desired material.
By using one kind of leather of graduated thickness and leaving those parts
thick which are most exposed to wear or are required for the attachments of the
boots, we can dispense with the usual insole-heel stiffening and toe puff
This invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which
Figure 1 is an elevation of a lace-up boot embodying this invention
Figure 2 is a view of a similar boot in section with the exception of the heel and
sole which are shown in elevation
Figure 3 shows the front part of the upper ready blocked or moulded
Figure 4 shows the rear part of an upper for a "whole-back" boot also ready
blocked.
Figure 5 shows the upper ready for the reception of a sole
Figure 6 is a shoe embodying this invention
Figure 7 is the back or rear part and
Figure 8 the fore part for a shoe the welt of which is to be turned outward
Figure 9 shows the parts separately represented in Figures 7 and 8 united ready
to receive the sole.

page_text: In all the figures A shows parts thinned down; B shows thick or heavy parts;
C welts or seams, D the parts serving as insoles and the like
Figure 1 shows the general appearance of a lace up boot embodying this
invention
Figure 2 shows how the leather is thinned down from the welt towards the
upper parts leaving the welt strong and stout whilst rendering the upper thin and
flexible where required. The thinning process is done by an excentric splitting
machine or by other convenient means.
The upper leather is shown detached in Figure 3 It is when properly thinned
at the parts which require it blocked moulded or pressed into shape substantially
as shown. In figure 4 the corresponding back or rear part of the boot is shown;
this is likewise thinned where required being left thick at the heel and the lower
part. Figure 5 shows how the two parts are united and also how the lower parts
are turned inward so that the thick parts form the heel (which requires no
stiffener) the toe (requiring no puff piece) and the bottom of the upper which
requires no insole side linings are also dispensed with.
Figure 6. shows a shoe made according to this invention. The shoe is
represented as hand-sewn or "fair stitched" Figures 7 and 8 are back and fore part
respectively, figure 9 shows the upper ready for the reception of the sole. Here
also the insole may be dispensed with as well as all internal fittings and a perfect
dress shoe be produced; we can also take the ordinary tops and last them upon
this principal
Instead of making the whole upper of the above specified materials the golosh
only may be so made, the vamp and upper quarters (if any) being made of any
desired material.
By the use of one kind only of leather (having a graduated thickness) for the
whole of the boot or for its principal parts, the manufacture is obviously simplified
and cheapened.
Having now described the nature of our said invention and the manner of
performing the same what we claim and desire to protect under the hereinbefore
in part recited Letters Patent is
1. In the manufacture of boots or shoes the employment of heavy leather
thinned down so as to be flexible in those parts which require to be elastic and
thick in those parts which have to be strong substantially as and for the purposes
set forth
2. A boot upper consisting of thick or heavy leather thinned at those parts
which are required to be flexible, and blocked or moulded into shape as and for the
purpose set forth.
3. A boot or shoe wherein separate internal pieces or fittings are dispensed with
and replaced by thick parts of the outer leather which is thinned down where it is
required to be flexible
In witness whereof we the said Charles Sutton and William Kirkland have
hereunto set our hands and seals this second day of June in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and eighty four.