IMPROVE- MENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE IN TWIST LACK MACHINES
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Hartshorn, Lace Manufacturer, and Joseph.
Gadsby, Draftsman, both of Nottingham, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE IN TWIST LACK MACHINES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Hartshorn and
Joseph Gadsby at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 28th October 1864.
We, JAMES HARTSHORN, Lace Manufacturer, and JOSEPH GADSBY,
Draftsman, both of Nottingham, do hereby declare the nature of the
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE IN TWIST LACE
MACHINES," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in producing a peculiar
description of close weaving in twist lace machines, in order to produce in
such machines imitation Maltese lace.
We are aware that in the production of a somewhat similar description of
weaving different combinations of threads have been proposed to be employed,
as, for instance, one warp thread acting as a weft thread with other warp
threads, also two warp threads acting as weft threads with other warp threads,
and wherein the warp threads so used as weft threads at each time of using
them form a double weft between the longitudinal warp threads and also two
warp threads acting as weft threads with warp and bobbin threads.

page_text: And our improvements consist in the production of the character of weaving
referred to by the use of one warp and one (or more) bobbin threads acting
as weft threads with longitudinal warp threads. The longitudinal warp threads
and also the weft warp thread are capable of being traversed diagonally,
or the longitudinal warp threads after working with one warp and bobbin
threads as weft threads for a time may be traversed and worked with the
next or neighboring warp and bobbin as weft threads, or, if preferred,
the first warp weft thread may, as before stated, be traversed with the longi-
tudinal warp threads, and made to act as a weft thread with, a neighboring
bobbin thread in succession as the form of the pattern desired to be made may
require, the said warp and bobbin weft threads being separately used for
the production of purls on the sides of the band of such weaving. And the
peculiarity of the weaving is that not only the warp threads which are used
for the time as weft threads, but also the bobbin threads which for the time
are used as weft threads are at each time of acting as weft threads used
double, that is, two thicknesses of the threads lie side by side in the same
opening between the longitudinal warp threads, the weft threads of the bands
when desired producing purls, which purls may be twisted.
Our improvements also consist in the production of the character of weaving
referred to by means of two (or more) bobbin threads acting as weft threads
with longitudinal warp threads, such bobbin weft threads producing purls on
the opposite edges of the band of weaving. The bobbin thread at each time
of acting as a weft thread is doubled, and two thicknesses thereof he side by
side in the same opening between the longitudinal warp' threads.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Hartshorn and Joseph Gadsby in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 28th April 1865.
•
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JAMES
HARTSHORN, Lace Manufacturer, and JOSEPH GADSBY, Draftsman, both of
Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of October, in the year of our Lord,
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year
of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said James Hartshorn and Joseph Gadsby, Her special licence that we, the
said James Hartshorn and Joseph Gadsby, our executors, administrators, and

page_text: assigns, or such others as we, the said James Hartshorn and Joseph Gadsby,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE IN
TWIST LACE MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said
James Hartshorn and Joseph Gadsby, our executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under our or their hands and seals, or under the
hand and seal of one of us or them should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office.
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said James Hartshorn and Joseph
Gadsby, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in producing a peculiar
description of close weaving in twist lace machines in order to produce in
such machines imitation Maltese lace.
We are aware that in the production of a somewhat similar description of
weaving different combinations of threads have been proposed to be employed,
as, for instance, one warp thread acting as a weft thread with other warp
threads, also two warp threads acting as weft threads with other warp threads,
and wherein the warp threads so used as weft threads at each time of using
them form a double weft between the longitudinal warp threads, and also two
warp threads acting as weft threads with warp and bobbin threads.
And our improvements consist in the production of the character of weaving
referred to by the use of one warp and one (or more) bobbin threads acting
as weft threads with longitudinal warp threads. The longitudinal warp
threads and also the weft warp thread are capable of being traversed diago-
nally, or the longitudinal warp threads, after working with one warp and
bobbin threads as weft threads for a time, may be traversed and worked with
the next or neighbouring warp and bobbin as weft threads, or, if preferred,
the first warp weft thread may, as before stated, be traversed with the longi-
tudinal warp threads, and made to act as a weft thread with a neighbouring
bobbin thread in succession as the form of the pattern desired to be made
may require, the said warp and bobbin weft threads being separately used for

page_text: the production of purls on the sides of the band of such weaving. And the
peculiarity of the weaving is, that not only the warp threads which are used
for the time as weft threads, but also the bobbin threads which for the time
are used as weft threads are at each time of acting as weft threads used
double, that is, two thicknesses of the threads lie side by side in the same
opening between the longitudinal warp threads, the weft threads of the bands,
when desired, producing purls, which purls may be twisted. +
Having thus stated the nature of our said Invention, we will proceed more
fully to describe the manner of performing the same. In doing so we will
'suppose the machinery to be ordinary twist 'lace machinery (preferring single
tier machines) fitted with a number of guide bars or suitable means for
moving the warp threads endways of the machine; and we will further sup-.
pose that the object is to make a single band of weaving formed of a suitable
number of longitudinal warp threads with their warp and bobbin weft
threads, and that we are about to employ ten longitudinal warp threads
(though we do not confine ourselves to this number) as a set of longitudinal'
warp threads besides the warp and bobbin weft threads, together with suitable
lacing threads. "We will further suppose that we are about to form the band'
of weaving in the space occupied by three neighboring bobbin threads, the
first of which- we will call the left hand lacing bobbin thread; the second the
bobbin weft thread, and the third the right hand lacing bobbin thread.
warp
The order in which we prefer to place the warp threads is as follows:-
The back warp lacing thread is placed nearest the back combs; then come
the
threads necessary for the ground of the lace fabric; after these come
the warp weft thread; then follow the longitudinal warp threads which we
divide into 'two parts numbered respectively 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 2, 4, 6, 8, 10.
The front lacing thread is placed between the longitudinal' threads and the
front combs; we would, however remark, that the relative placing of the
threads may be varied.
.
Assuming the machine to be in the position for producing the first move-
ment of the threads, all the warp threads will stand on the left hand side the
left hand lacing bobbin thread.
'No. 1 motion, carriages in front combs.-The back warp lacing thread
moves three gates to the right hand. The warp weft thread moves two gates
to the right hand. The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, move two
gates to the right hand. The longitudinal warp threads 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, stand'
on the left-hand side the left hand lacing bobbin thread. The front warp
lacing thread stands on the left hand side the left hand lacing bobbin
throad

page_text: No. 2 motion, carriages in back combs.-The back warp lacing thread
stands on the right-hand side the right hand lacing bobbin thread. The
warp weft thread moves two gates to the left hand. The longitudinal threads
1, 3, 5, 7, 9, stand on the right hand side of the weft bobbin thread. The
longitudinal threads 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, stand on the left hand side the left hand
facing bobbin thread. The front warp lacing thread stands on the left hand
side the left hand lacing bobbin thread.
No. 3 motion, carriages in front combs.-The back warp' lacing thread
stands on the right hand side the right hand lacing-bobbin thread. The warp
weft thread stands on the left hand side the left hand lacing bobbin thread.
The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, 9; stand on the right hand side of
the bobbin weft thread: The longitudinal warp threads 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, stand
on the left hand side. the left hand lacing bobbin thread. The front warp
lacing thread moves one gate to the right hand.
No. 4 motion, carriages in back combs:-The back warp lacing thread
stands on the right hand side the right hand lacing bobbin thread. The warp
weft thread moves two gates to the right hand. The longitudinal warp
threads 1, 3, 5, 7; 9; stand on the right hand side the bobbin' weft thread.
The longitudinal warp threads 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, stand on the left hand side the
left hand lacing bobbin thread. The front warp lacing thread moves one gate
to the left hand:
"No. 5'' motion, carriages in front combs.-The back warp facing thread
moves two gates to the left hand. The warp weft thread. stands on the right
hand side the bobbin weft thread. The longitudinal warp threads.1, 3, 5, 7; 9;
move one gate to the left hand. The longitudinal warp threads 2, 4, 6, 8, 10,
move two gates to the right hand: The front warp lacing thread stands
on the left hand side of the left hand lacing bobbin' thread!
No. 6 motion, carriages in back combs.-The back warp lacing thread
moves two gates to the right hand: The warp weft thread stands on the
right hand, side the bobbin weft thread. The longitudinal, warp, threads
1, 8, 5, 7; 9; stand on the, left hand side.of: the bobbin, weft, thread. The
longitudinal warp threads 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, stand on the right hand side of the
bobbin weft thread. The front warp lacing thread stands on the: left hand
side of the left hand lacing bobbin thread.
No. 7 motion, carriages in- fronti-combs.-The back warp lacing thread
moves one gate to the left hand. The warp weft thread stands on the right
hand side of the bobbin weft thread. The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3,
5, 7, 9,,stand on the left hand side, the bobbin. weft thread. The longitudinal
warp threads-2; 4, 6, 8, 10, stand on the right hand-side of the bobbin weft

page_text: thread. The front warp lacing thread stands on the left hand side of the left
hand lacing bobbin thread.
.
f. No. 8. motion, carriages in back combs.-The back warp lacing thread
moves one gate to the left hand. The warp weft thread stands on the right
hand side of the bobbin weft thread. The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3,
5, 7, 9, stand on the left hand side of the bobbin weft thread. The longi-
tudinal warp threads 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, stand on the right hand side of the bobbin
weft thread. The front warp lacing thread stands on the left hand side of the
left hand lacing bobbin thread.
It is not considered necessary to enter into any description of making the
ground of twist lace of the fabric, as the same is well understood, and such is
the case in respect to the combining of the weavings therewith. .
In the above description, simple or loop purls only are supposed to be
formed from the warp and bobbin weft threads in connection with the band
of weaving produced by such weft threads acting with the longitudinal warp
threads, but, if twisted purls be preferred, then the warp and bobbin weft
threads are twisted together (allowing a sufficient number of motions for
this process,) and the purls thus formed are to be laced in the ordinary.
manner..
こ
By carefully following the above description any competent workman will
be able readily not only to produce a simple band of weaving such as is above
described, but he will easily perceive.how a variety of patterns may be formed
by causing the longitudinal warp threads and the warp weft thread to traverse
to other, warp and bobbin threads of the ground fabric, in which cases other of
the carriage, threads will be employed for the bobbin weft threads, but will be
caused to work in like manner to that in which the carriage thread above
spoken of is worked, whilst such first-mentioned bobbin thread will be used
to produce the ground fabric of the lace in the ordinary manner of other
carriage threads not for the time used as bobbin weft threads.
In witness whereof we, the said James Hartshorn and Joseph Gadsby,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-fourth day of
April, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
sixty-five
JAMES HARTSHORN. (L.S.)
JOSEPH GADSBY.
(L.S.)