Improvements in the Manufacture of Waist Bands for Ladies' Skirts and the like and in the Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Mar., 1887
Complete Left, 14th Dec., 1887
Complete Accepted, 20th Jan., 1888
Improvements in the Manufacture of Waist Bands for Ladies' Skirts
and the like and in the Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
We, CHARLES LUNN and HAROLD PENNINGTON ROBINSON, both of Framland
Street, Leicester, in the county of Leicester, Hosiery and Smallware Manufacturers,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of what are known as
convex waist-bands for ladies' skirts, petticoats, dresses, and the like, by the use of
improved machinery hereinafter more particularly described, the object of our invention
being to provide a inore perfect band than has hitherto been produced.
For this purpose we employ a conical warp beam which enables us to warp each end
or thread of a different length so that the waist band produced will be practically a
perfect circle or curve which could not be done by the method hitherto in use of
warping singly or in sections.
As the outer selvage is longer than the inner selvage difficulties have been
experienced in putting or laying in the weft regularly; we obviate this difficulty by
making use of loose slays or reeds placed diagonally in the lathe which enables the
weft to be spread at the longer selvage whilst it is "knocked up" stiffer in the shorter
selvage. We sometimes introduce into the shorter selvage of the band elastic threads
of india rubber.
Where the bands are (as is usual) made double or with a lining, we make the
lining somewhat shorter than the outer band so that when the article is applied to a
skirt the lower edge of the outer band will be level with the lower edge of the
lining.
Dated the 17th day of Manch 1007
G. F. REDFERN,
.4, South Street, Finsbury, London,
Agent for the Applicants.

page_text: and the like and in the Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
We CHARLES LUNN and HAROLD PENNINGTON ROBINSON, both of Framland
Street, Leicester, in the County of Leicester, Hosiery and Smallware Manufacturers,
do hereby declare the nature of this Invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying drawings:
This Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of waist bands for
ladies skirts, petticoats, dresses and the like, by the use of improved machinery
hereinafter more particularly described, the object of our invention being to provide
a more perfect band than has hitherto been produced.
For this purpose we employ a conical warp bobbin or beam which enables us to
warp each end or thread of a different length, so that the waist band produced will be
practically a perfect circle or curve which could not be done by the method hitherto
in use of warping singly or in sections.
As the outer selvage is longer than the inner selvage, difficulties have been
experienced in putting or laying in the weft regularly. We obviate this difficulty by
making use of loose slays or reeds placed diagonally in the lathe which enables the
weft to be spread at the longer selvedge whilst it is "knocked up" stiffer in the shorter
selvage.
In order that the manner in which we carry our invention into effect may be fully
understood we have attached hereunto a sheet of drawings to which we will refer
when more fully describing our invention.
In the said Drawings Fig. 1 is a Front Elevation representing parts which we apply
to an ordinary smallware loom to enable us to weave the curved bands in accordance
with our invention. In the said Fig. a is the said conical warp bobbin and b is a
conical taking-up roller.
The bobbin a is formed with a conical barrel which is made inore or less tapered
according to the degree of curvature required in the woven band, that is to say when
a curvature of a shorter radius is required the diameter of one end of the barrel of
the bobbin is increased as compared with the other end. When filling the bobbin
with warp the warp is spread as regularly as is conveniently possible over the length
of the barrel the intention being that the lengths of the warp ends upon the bobbin
shall gradually increase from one end to the other. It will be seen that during the
weaving operation the warp ends will be let off at a rate which gradually increases
from one side of the warp c to the other. Any suitable description of taking-up
apparatus may be used. The apparatus shown in the drawings is such as we have
found to answer our purpose very well. A conical roller b is covered with vulcanized
caoutchouc and is mounted with its shaft revolving in bearings in a suitable frame or
headstock. Upon the said shaft is fixed a worm wheel d with which gears a worm

page_text: which is upon the same shaft as the ratchet wheel e.
A pawlf engages with the teeth
of the wheel e and is mounted upon a sliding bar which is extended along the
breast beam and actuates all the sets of taking-up apparatus. The diagram Fig. 2
illustrates the manner in which the web is taken up. The web passes first over a
rod g and after passing under and partly around the taking-up roller b
passes over
a pressing roller h which is loaded by means of weights or springs so as to keep the
web tightly stretched upon the taking-up roller. The improvement in the mounting
of the reed is illustrated by Fig. 3. In the example the reed is mounted in a holder
which is hinged by one end or side at the other end being free to yield to some
extent against the pressure of a spring k. The reed may be parallel with the line of
traverse of the shuttle or be inclined therefrom as preferred. In the latter case the
free end of the reed would be a little more distant from the said line of traverse than
the other end. The reed may be mounted so as to be rigidly held at one end whilst
being loose or free to move to some extent at the other end without being mounted
in a hinged frame.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we claim is :-
(1) In the weaving of curved waist bands the employment of conical warp bobbins
and beams in order that the warp may be let off at a rate increasing from one end of
the bobbin or beam to the other end substantially as set forth.
(2) The conical warp bobbin for the purpose set forth.
(3) In the weaving of curved waist bands the employment of the reed so mounted
as to yield at one side or end substantially as set forth and indicated.