Improvements in the Production of Frilled, Crimped, or Pleated Fabrics, Suitable for Trimmings, Ladies' Collars and Cuffs, and the like.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Nov., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 26th Aug., 1898-Accepted, 22nd Oct., 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION:
Improvements in the Production of Frilled, Crimped, or Pleated
Fabrics, Suitable for Trimmings, Ladies' Collars and Cuffs, and
the like.
I, JOHN TEBBUTT, of Cambridge Terrace, No. 43, Humberstone Road, Leicester,
in the County of Leicester, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in the production of elastic and non-
elastic fabrics, or articles to take the form of fancy or other trimmings, or articles
of dress such as ladies collars, cuffs, or providing a new trimming for capes,
mantles, jackets skirts, or for many other purposes.
The object of this invention is to provide an odourless hygienic elastic and
non-elastic fabric suitable for producing any coloured plain or fancy frilled,
crimped or pleated trimming suitable to the article it has to be applied to, or
which may be loosely worn over garments according to the style or design thereof
and either for outer or under-wear.
The fabric will also be made without the usual disagreeable smell of naptha
or other distilled spirit, the unpleasant odour being discharged by extra distilla-
tion.
I also employ in disinfecting the fabric a suitable and agreeable fragrant aroma
by mixing an extract with the india-rubber solution before use.
To carry out this invention the fabrics to form the face and back or weaving
surfaces may be composed of any fine, light, coarse or heavy textile material woven
from silk, cotton, wool or other fibrous mixtures or combinations thereof in fancy,
plain or a mixture of patterns suited for the purpose. One side of the fabrics
are then coated with the odourless india-rubber solution and allowed to dry over
steam chests or the like, the sheet rubber is cut to the widths required, or rubber
threads are arranged parallel to the width desired, and coated with solution while
in an elongated state, the solutioned side of the two fabrics are then placed on
both sides of the elongated rubber, and all are passed through weighted rollers
which press them together, and allowed to rest until the rubber assumes its normal
condition. To effect the pleats, or crimpings at certain widths or intervals the
fabric is passed through crimped rollers and the part or parts in which there is
or are no rubber or rubber threads is frilled. crimped or pleated whether at the
edges or other part of the narrow or wide fabric or trimming as the case may be:
the said fabrics may be perforated in a perforating machine to produce a venti-
lating or porous web or trimming in a variety of patterns partly elastic and
partly non-elastic in articles of various weights and textures according to the
choice of materials employed and depth of design necessary to produce the desired
effect in frilled, crimped or pleated fabrics for the purposes specified.
Dated this 19th day of November 1897.
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Applicant's Agent,

page_text: Improvements in the Production of Frilled, Crimped, or Pleated
Fabrics, suitable for Trimmings, Ladies' Collars and Cuffs, and
the like.
I, JOHN TEBBUTT, of Chatsworth House, Cavendish Road, Aylestone Park,
Leicester, late of No. 43, Humberstone Road, Leicester, in the County of Leicester,
Manufacturer, du hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in the production of elastic and non-
elastic fabrics, and articles capable of being formed into faney or other trimmings,
articles of ladies dress such as collars and cuffs, or as a new trimming for capes,
mantles, jackets, skirts, belts, garters or garments for underwear, wrist bands
for gloves and many other similar purposes.
I have annexed a sheet of drawings showing one form of application in pro-
ducing a narrow gathered or slurred fabric for edge trimmings, and showing
the means employed in putting the fabric together.
Figure 1 is a perspective view of the face or outer surface woven material, and
the lining or backing, with the threads or strips of india-rubber interposed
between the two in the elongated state, and Figure shows the fabric when com
pleted in its finished state. The object of this invention is to provide an hygeianic
elastic and non-elastic fabric in any coloured plain or fancy frilled, pleated or
gathered trimmings which shall be in unison with the article to which it has to
be applied to or if made up into articles to be worn as over or undergarments
according to the style or design in fashion. Hitherto india-rubber fabrics have
been made of threads covered by warp and weft, and corrugated sheet rubber for
belts, garters, braces, pocket book or boot webs which were impracticable for
the purposes of this invention.
To carry out my present invention it is necessary to get rid of the disagreeable
smell of the naptha or other distilled spirit employed in the manufacture of india-
rubber solution, which I accomplish by extra distillation of the spirit employed.
I also employ in disinfecting the fabric an agreeable fragrant odour by impreg
nating or co-operating with the india-rubber solution or spirit before use extracts
such as
cajuput,"
sassifras,"
Izal," and essential oils such as
eucalyptus,"
white thymme, mint, lavender," or the like. The fabrics or materials to form
the face or woven surfaces may be composed of any fine, coarse, light or heavy
texture woven from silk, cotton, wool or other fibrous mixtures or any combination
thereof.
"
"
..
"
The side of each of the fabrics which have to come nearest each other are then
coated with the above mentioned india-rubber solution and allowed to dry over
steam chests heated up to 120° F. or thereabouts, such heat evaporating the spirit
and leaving only the disinfecting material embodied therein.
The sheet rubber is cut to the size of strips D required or into threads C;
examples of which are shown by the drawing accompanying this specification,
and are arranged parallel to each other at certain distances and coated with the
solution while in an elongated state, the already solutioned side of the two fabrics A
and B are then placed as seen in Figure 1 on both sides of the elongated
rubber strands or threads and passed through weighted rollers to press them
together, and then allowed to rest until the rubber assumes its normal condition
or finished state as seen in "Figure 2" where a fulness is seen in the parts where
no strands or threads of rubber exist.

page_text: In pleated or gathered fabrics or trimmings as now made when the draw thread
happens to break the "gathers" are destroyed or undone which cannot take place
by the adhesion by solution of the rubber strands or threads to the already solu-
tioned faces of the two materials employed in forming the face and back, in some
cases the face material is cut a little wider than the back or lining material
seen in Figure 1" and the edges thereof solutioned and turned over on to the
lining, or otherwise if desired.
"
as
To effect the patterning by crimping or pleating the fabric to produce an
ornamental effect other than that shown in the drawings the fabric is passed
through crimped hollow rollers made preferably of brass, the flutings being made
in various designs to produce a corresponding effect upon the extensible material,
the part or parts of the fabric in which there are no rubber strands or threads
have a fulness" and the edge or edges are frilled "as seen in Figure 2" and when
finished is crimped, pleated or gathered as may be from time to time required.
"
The said fabrics may also be perforated by passing them through suitable ten-
sioned feed rollers to a perforating roller of the ordinary well known arrangement
to produce a ventilating or porous web or trimming.
Fabries, composed of a textile face and back and india rubber strands or strips
and solution, disinfected and deodorized as herein before described to produce a
rubber hygeianic material is also of service for dispersing allaying or destroying
disease germs by making them into suitable garments, articles or trimmings as
the case may be such fabrics, trimmings or collars or cuffs with any suitable
means for attachment to the bodice, blouse or the like, or for forming the articles
themselves where the required fulness would be caused by the absence of india-
rubber strands or threads coated with solution and interposed between the wearing
or weaving surface, and the back or lining, and the parts so treated coming in
contact with the air or any part of the human body will throw off a pleasant and
invigorating fragrance tending to destroy any disease germs and at the same time
producing a porous or non-porous hygeianic elastic and non-elastic pleated or
gathered fabric, and articles made therefrom.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is;-
As a new article of manufacture an expansible elastic pleated or gathered fabric,
trimming or article formed of a wearing or weaving surface, and back or lining,
interposed between which are strips or threads of india-rubber, all solutioned
together in the elongated state, and disinfected or deodorized by the several means
substantially as described.
T
311 al
A 1000
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
34, Belvoir Street, Leicester. Registered Patent Agent,
Applicant's Agent,