An Improved Apparatus for use in Designing Boot and Shoe Uppers.
Year: 1897

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Apparatus for use in Designing Boot and Shoe Uppers.
I, ERNEST DEPPE, of 68, Fonthill Road, Finsbury Park, in the County of Mid-
dlesex, Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention a communication to
me from abroad by Heinrich Deppe, of Bremervorde, Hanover, in the Empire of
Germany, Shoemaker, to be as follows:-
This invention relates to an improved apparatus for use in designing, by means
of both linear and angular measurements, boot and shoe uppers of any kind or
size, and it enables the pattern or design to be arrived at in a very quick and
ready manner and is therefore of especial use in factories.
The apparatus consists of two flat circular rings or plates placed face to face and
held together by a flange formed by the inner edge of one of the rings. These circular
plates are arranged so that they can be turned or revolved concentrically with and
on one another and are each provided with a straight arm fixed respectively thereto
and in such a manner that the one end of each of the arms meet at the point which
forms the common centre or axis of the circular plates. The arms thus fixed to the
respective plates can be accordingly brought radially together or apart and in the
same planes and so form various angles at their meeting point according to their
position. The angles thus formed are indicated by a scale arranged on the sur-
face of one of the plates and a set screw or clamp is provided for securing the
plates and consequently the arms attached thereto at any position or angle.
arms are also each provided with a linear scale for measurement of inches, centi-
meters or the like. The before mentioned scale for indicating the angle or posi-
tion of the arms is further marked with special points to indicate the position the
arms should be in for the correct determination of the various parts of the upper,
such as the angle, instep, etc. In order to design a boot or shoe upper, a right
angle is first set out by means of the apparatus, and by successive linear and
angular measurements, such angular measurements being indicated by the special
marks on the scale, a correct pattern or model is rapidly arrived at.
The apparatus
can be constructed of metal or other suitable material.
The

page_text: Apparatus fen Designing boot and snoe Uppers.
ERNEST DEPPE, of 68, Fonthill Road, Finsbury Park, in the County of Mid-
dlesex, Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
My invention relates to an improved apparatus for use in designing by means
of both linear and angular measurements, boot and shoe uppers of any kind or
size, and it enables the pattern or design to be arrived at in a very quick and ready
manner and is therefore of special use in factories.
The apparatus consists of two flat circular rings or plates as shewn (a) in the
plan Fig. 1 and (a and b) section Fig. 2, which are placed face to face and held
together by a flange formed by the inner edge of one of the rings. These circular
plates are arranged so that they can be turned or revolved concentrically with and
on one another and are each provided with a straight shank (c and d). Figs. 1
and 2 to each of which is attached a linear rule (d and d¹) in such a manner that
the one end of each of the linear rules meet at the point (e) Fig. 1, which forms
the common centre or axis of the circular plates. The linear rules thus fixed to the
respective plates can be accordingly brought radially together or apart and in
the same planes and so form various angles at their meeting point according to
their position. The angles thus formed are indicated by a scale arranged on
the surface of the upper plate and a clutch (f) is attached to the linear rule (c¹)
which is affixed to the lower ring (b) Fig. 2. The upper ring (a) with its scale
is provided with notches for the respective angles required, into which the tooth
of the clutch falls, thus holding the linear rules in position. (99' and 9³) are knobs
by which the instrument may be set; (h), is a spring acting upon the clutch.
In order to design a boot or shoe upper a right angle is first set out (by means
of the instrument) from which right angle I construct, by the aid of the said
instrument, the linear and angular measurements required, such angular measure-
ments being indicated by the notches on the protractor Fig. 1. For example
referring to Fig. 3 the ground line from (a to b) is the length of the last and is
divided into three equal parts; a rectangular line from (b to c) is then formed.
The height of the heel required is then indicated as shewn at (d). A line is drawn
from (e) to the point (d). A line is formed from (d to f) at an angle of 46° from
the line (ed). The point (f) is found by dividing the heel measurement (taken
from the foot) by two, which half measuring from point (d) gives the point (f).
The line (g) is drawn at an angle of 960 from the ground line, crossing the
point (f). The line (e) is then drawn at an angle of 70° from the ground line
at point (e). The point (1) is then found by dividing the ball measurement (taken
from the foot) by three, which third measuring from point (e) gives the point (2).
The line (df) is now divided in two giving the point (k). The vertical line (k)
to (1) is then formed. A horizontal line from the point (f) to (1) is then formed by
which the point (7) is found. Now a line is drawn from (m to n) through the
points (i and 7). A line is then drawn from the point (n to o) at an angle of 96°
from the line (bn). Then a line is drawn from (f to 1) giving the instep. A
line is then formed from (a to m) parallel to the line (e-) and the setting out is
completed. Allowance is now made in the curved lines which actually indicate
the form of the upper. Also allowance is made at the front and bottom, required
for closing. The arrows indicate the lines from which the various angles are
constructed.
Fig. 1 is a plan of the instrument.

page_text: Fig. 3 shews the practical application of the instrument.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim
is:-