Year: 1885

page_text: I HENRY EDWARD NEWTON of the Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to sewing a row of stitches through the sole itself, or the
sole and one or more pieces of material together, the said stitches being independent
of those sewing the sole on or to the boot.
The invention is carried out in the following manner;
For sewn through work, a channel or groove is cut round the edge of the sole
for the row of stitches to lay in; the leather (viz: the sole) is then split a little
below the surface or grain in the aforesaid channel, and at a greater angle, thereby
making a second channel at about the middle of the sole's thickness, so that on the
surface of the sole or leather there is one channel, and in about the middle
of its thickness, two channels or grooves, and in the first channel or groove nearest
the edge I sew a row of stitches, and (if the edge is required to be stouter or
thicker) at the same time, with the same stitches, one or more pieces of material.
The sole is next placed on the boot or shoe, and sewn or nailed thereto in the
ordinary way, in the second channel or groove, whereby it is attached to the boot
or shoe. The channel or channels, or groove or grooves, are then closed, and when
closed, have the appearance of an ordinary channel, and the boot has the appearance
of a stitched welt, and is eithe a sewn-through boot or shoe or a sewn-round boot
or shoe.
For sewn-round work, a groove or channel is cut near the edge of the sole, and
a row of stitches is sewn in the said groove,

page_text: I HENRY EDWARD NEWTON of the Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention consists in sewing a row of stitches through the sole itself, or
through the sole and one or more pieces or strips of material, the said stitches not
having to hold the sole on or to the boot or shoe.
In the accompanying drawings:-
Fig. 1 is a section of a portion of a boot, with the present invention applied
thereto.
Fig. 2 is a similar view, showing a slight modification.
The invention is carried out in the following manner :-
For sewn-through work, a channel or groove a is cut around the edge of the
sole for the row of stitches to lay in. The leather sole is then split a little below
the surface or grain in the aforesaid channel a, at a greater angle, as shown at b,
thereby making a second channel at about the middle of the sole's thickness, 80
that there will be, on the surface of the sole or leather, one channel as a, and in
about the middle of the sole's thickness, two channels or grooves a and b. In the
first channel or groove a nearest the edge, a row of stitches is sewn and at the
same time with the same stitches, if the edge is required stouter or thicker, one or
more pieces or strips of material are secured to the sole. The sole is then placed
on the boot or shoe, and is sewn or nailed thereto in the ordinary way, the stitches
or brads or other fastening appliances lying in the second channel or groove b.—
The channel or channels, or groove or grooves, are then closed, and when closed,
has or have the appearance of an ordinary channel, and the boot has the appearance
of a stitched welt, and is a sewn-through boot or shoe.
For sewn-round work, a groove or channel a is cut (see Fig. 2) near the edge of
the sole, and a row of stitches is sewn in the said groove, as is described for sewn-
through boots or shoes, the effect being the same as in the former case.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :—
Manufacturing boots and shoes in the manner and for the purpose substantially
as herein shown and described. **
Titon of dentarha 1996