Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Jan., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 10th Oct., 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 16th Nov., 1888
"
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of the present invention is the production of new ornamental embroider-
ing seams by means of the universal feed embroidering machines. Said seams are
made by means of two or more needle hooks and an equal number of threads which
thus produce several parallel embroidering seams in all directions, or which by the
addition of another thread which is wound around the several chain stitch seams
produce ornamental overseaming stitches..
On the accompanying Sheet of Drawing:-
Fig. 1 represents that part of an embroidering machine in which the organs are
contained which produce the new stitch.
Fig. 2 represents a top view of Fig. 1, and
Figs. 3, 4, 5 and 6 represent detached views, on an enlarged scale, of the organs
which produce the stitch."
A represents the bed plate of the machine, B represents a casting which is secured
to the bed plate and in which play the two screw gearings C and D in the manner
well known, but with the difference that the screw gear D does not work like a thread
looper but as the shaft of a circular eccentric a which is secured to its upper part. A
gear wheel E is adjusted on the flange of the casting B and can turn freely on said
flange.
H represents a small pitman which is provided with a circular flange g which is
adjusted upon the eccentric a. A screw c which passes through a slot d of the
pitman H is screwed into the wheel E and guides the pitman H in its movement
when it is operated by the oscillation of the eccentric a, which communicates an
oscillating movement to that part of the pitman H which lies in the prolongation of
shaft D. The oscillating motion of shaft D is obtained by the reciprocating motion
of the rod I and of its screw gear C which is in gear with the screw gear D. K
and L represent two needle hooks which work in the ordinary manner as the hooks of
an embroidering machine and which stitch through the needle holes in the disk g
'מ
11

page_text: which is secured to a circular rim of the wheel E and which thus turns with said
wheel. Two tubes h and i are secured to the circular part of the pitman H and above
the hollow shaft of the screw wheel D, and each of the tubes and describes a
circular oscillating motion around its needle K or L by the action of the eccentric a.
Two threads mand o are passed through the hollow shaft D and through the tubes h
and and by the oscillating motion of said tubes around their needle hooks each
thread is wound around each respective hook which as it rises draws a loop above the
cloth and thus produces a chain stitch in the well known manner; thus two parallel
chain stitch seams are produced by means of two needle hooks and two
threads. Upon turning the crank handle M, the direction of the feed is changed
and the needles K and L are turned the same amount by means of a system
of intermediate gear wheels and pinions, and the pinions N, O, and tube T
turn the rod I and the screw gears C and D, and the eccentric a and the
pinions N, O, P and Q turn the cogged wheels R and E the same quantity. It
follows that by said motion the pitman H and its two looper tubes and i
are also turned around the shaft D the same quantity as the needle hooks K L,
as represented in Fig. 4 in dotted lines on an enlarged scale, and thus the relative
positions between the needles K L and their looper tubes h, i, do not vary when the
direction of the feed and of the needles is changed, and thus the parallel chain stitch
seams above described can be produced in any direction by means of the universal
feed motion of the machine. It is evident that the needle disk g turns with the
needles and other organs it being secured to the gear wheel R. In setting one needle
higher than the other, as represented in the drawings, it will draw a longer loop above
the cloth than the needle which is set lower and thus a larger seam is produced by
the higher needle and a narrower one by the lower needle; and if besides a third
tliread P is employed, as represented Fig. 5, which is wound around the stitches of
the two needles by means of a revolving thread carrier S, which revolves around the
needles, always in the same direction, then an embroidering seam is produced which
resembles an overseaming stitch because the loose loop of thread m is drawn against
and fastened to the tight loop of thread o by means of the thread p of the revolving
thread carrier S, which turns around the needles always in the same direction. By
setting the two needles the same height, as represented Fig. 6, the two sleeves of the
threads are tied together in the middle of the seam by the thread p, and thus an
embroidering seam is produced with a central line from which small lateral lines
extend to both sides.
It is evident that more than two needles and threads can be employed on the
machine by increasing the number of the looper tubes h, i, on the pitman H.
Daind this Wuntl JL 1000

page_text: I EMILE CORNELY, of 87 Faubourg St. Denis, Paris, France, Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
The object of the present invention is the production of new ornamental embroider-
ing seams by means of the universal feed embroidering machines. Said seams are
made by means of two or more needle hooks and an equal number of threads which
thus produce several parallel embroidering scams in all directions, or which by the
addition of another thread which is wound around the several chain stitch seams
produce ornamental overseaming stitches.
On the accompanying 2 Sheets of Drawing:-
Figure 1 represents that part of an embroidering machine in which the organs are
contained which produce the new stitch.
Figure 2 represents a top view of Fig. 1 and
Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 represent detached views, on an enlarged scale, of the
organs which produce the stitch.
A represents the bed plate of the machine; B represents a casting which is secured
to the bed plate and in which play the two screw gearings C and D in the manner
well known, but with the difference that the screw gear D does not work like a thread
looper but as the shaft of a circular eccentric a which is secured to its upper part. A
gear wheel E is adjusted on the flange 6 of the casting B and can turn freely on said
flange.
H represents a small pitman which is provided with a circular flange 7 which is
adjusted upon the eccentric a. A screw which passes through a slot d of the
pitman H is screwed into the wheel E and guides the pitman H in its movement
when it is operated by the oscillation of the eccentric a, which communicates an
oscillating movement to that part of the pitman H which lies in the prolongation of
shaft D. The oscillating motion of shaft D is obtained by the reciprocating motion
of the rod I and of its screw gear C which is in gear with the screw gear D. K
and L represent two needle hooks which work in the ordinary manner as the hooks
of an embroidering machine and which stitch through the needle holes in the disk g
which is secured to a circular rim of the wheel E and which thus turns with said
wheel. Two tubes and are secured to the circular part of the pitman H and
above the hollow shaft of the screw wheel D, and each of the tubes h and i
describes a circular oscillating motion around its needle K or L by the action of the
eccentric a.

page_text: Two threads m and o are passed through the hollow shaft D and through the
tubes hand and by the oscillating motion of said tubes around their needle hooks
each thread is wound around each respective hook which as it rises draws a loop
above the cloth and thus produces a chain stitch in the well known manner; thus
two parallel chain stitch seams are produced by means of two needle hooks and two
threads.
Upon turning the crank handle M, the direction of the feed is changed and the
needles K and I are turned the same amount by means of a system of intermediate
gear wheels and pinions, and the pinions N, O, and tube T turn the rod I and the
screw gears
C and D, and the eccentric a and the pinions N, O, P and Q turn the
cogged wheels R and E the same quantity. It follows that by said motion
the pitman H and its two looper tubes and i are also turned around the shaft D
the same quantity as the needle hooks K L, as represented in Fig. 4 in dotted lines
on an enlarged scale, and thus the relative positions between the needles K L and
their looper tubes h, i, do not vary when the direction of the feed and of the needles
is changed, and thus the parallel chain stitch seams above described can be producd
in any direction by means of the universal feed motion of the machine. It is
evident that the needle disk y turns with the needles and other organs it being
secured to the gear wheel R. In setting one needle higher than the other, as
represented in the drawings, it will draw a longer loop above the cloth than the
needle which is set lower and thus a larger scam is produced by the higher needle
and a narrower one by the lower needle; and if besides a third thread p is employed,
as represented Fig. 5, which is wound around the stitches of the two needles by means
of a revolving thread carrier S, which revolves around the needles, always in the same
direction, then an embroidering scam is produced which resembles an overscaming
stitch because the loose loop of thread m is drawn against and fastened to the tight
loop of thread o by means of the thread p of the revolving thread carrier S, which
turns around the needles always in the same direction. By setting the two needles
the same height, as represented Fig. 6, the two sleeves of the threads are tied together
in the middle of the seam by the thread p, and thus an embroidering seam is produced
with a central line from which small lateral lines extend to both sides.
It is evident that more than two needles and threads can be employed on the
machine by increasing the number of the looper tubes h, i, on the pitman H.
In Figures 7, 8 and 9 I have represented an arrangement which is based on the
same principle as the one described above. Instead of driving the pitman H directly
through the eccentric on shaft D, I drive it by means of the crank pin a, of a pinion U,
whose shaft n turns in the body of the wheel E, and the pinion U is driven by the
pinion which is secured to the shaft D.
In this case the tubes and describe ellipses around the needles K and Las
represented on an enlarged scale at Fig. 9. The advantage in this arrangement is
this, that the tubes hand in their extreme positions represented at Fig. 9 are much
more distant from the needles K and L and clear the needle plate g which is above
them, so that the threading of said tubes is much facilitated.
Upon turning the crank handle of the machine the wheel E and the pinion U will
turn together around the pinion V, and the parts will assume the positions represented
in dotted lines Fig. 9, whereby the relative positions of the tubes and i to the
needles K, L, are not changed as above described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
1. The production of several parallel embroidering seams by means of several needle
hooks and an equal number of threads, by means of organs which can be turned by
the crank handle of the machine in all directions so as to produce said seams in all
directions by means of the universal feed.
2. The production of an embroidering stitch resembling the overseaming stitch in

page_text: all directions by the winding of the thread around the two chain stitches produced
from two threads by means of two needle hooks.
3. A thread looper provided with several thread guides consisting of a pitman H
and its tubes h, i, which is operated by an eccentric a, on hollow shaft D and combined
with the wheel E in such a manner that it can be turned in all directions by means of
the crank handle of the machine without changing the relative positions of the guides h
and to the needles K, L.