Improvements in or relating to the Manufacture of Knitted Garments
Year: 1897

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to the Manufacture of Knitted Garments
We, FRANK MOORE, CHARLES BARROWDALE CARRYER, and WILLIAM MOORE,
Hosiery Manufacturers, of 67, Granby Street, Leicester, in the County of Leicester;
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has reference to the manufacture of knitted garments, and is
designed to produce thickened parts where necessary or desirable in the garment,
as for example in the case of a knitted shirt or under vest over the breast or the
back or both, so as to give more protection to the wearer at these parts.
The main feature of our invention consists in varying the character of the
knitting at those places where the thickening is to be effected, so that instead of
producing the ordinary knitted fabric at those places, we produce a special fabric
of a thicker and softer nature, which is however all in one piece with the rest
of the garment.
The special fabric referred to is known as "tuck fabric" and is produced by
using two or more loops on each needle, instead of only a single loop as in the
production of the other parts of the garment which are of the ordinary thickness.
In the case of a knitted shirt or under-vest the thickening may be produced, in
the manner referred to, over the region of the chest, and between the shoulders,
while in the case of knitted pants the said thickening may be applied to the backs
and fronts &c.
The parts of the garments formed in this manner although thicker than the
other parts of the garment are nevertheless softer than they would be if thickened
by the ordinary methods.
Our invention enables the garments to be thickened at will at any parts where it
may be desirable to provide for extra warmth and to afford greater protection
against cold than is afforded by the ordinary thickness of the garment.
Dated this 31st day of December 1897.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicants.
Improvements in or relating to the Manufacture of Knitted Garments.
We, FRANK MOORE, CHARLES BARROWDALE CARRYER, and WILLIAM MOORE,.
Hosiery Manufacturers, of 67, Granby Street, Leicester, in the County of Leicester,
Price 8d.1

page_text: do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
:-
This invention has reference to ne manufacture of knitted garments, and is
designed to produce thickened parts where necessary or desirable in the garment,
as for example in the case of a knitted shirt or undervest over the breast or the
back or both, so as to give more protection to the wearer at these parts.
The main feature of our invention consists in varying the character of the
knitting at those places where the thickening is to be effected, so that instead of
producing the ordinary knitted fabric at those places, we produce a special fabric
of a thicker and softer nature, which is however all in one piece with the rest
of the garment.
The special fabric referred to is known as multifold loop or knitted fabric
which was described in our Provisional Specification as tuck" fabric and is
produced by using two or more loops on each needle, instead of only a single loop
as in the production of the other parts of the garment which are of the ordinary
thickness.
In the case of a knitted, shirt or undervest the thickening may be produced, in
the manner referred to, over the region of the chest, and between the shoulders,
while in the case, of knitted pants the said thickening may be applied to the backs
and fronts &c.
.
The parts of the garments formed in this manner although thicker than the
other parts of the garinent are nevertheless softer than they would be if thickened
by the ordinary methods.
In order that our said invention may be clearly understood and readily carried
into effect we will now proceed to describe the same more fully with reference to
the accompanying drawings in which:-
Figure 1 shows a front elevation of a special device to be attached to an ordinary
straight-loop knitting machine of well known construction, for knitting the
thickened parts of a vest or shirt; part of the ordinary mechanism being omitted.
Figure 2, is an elevation of the notched wheel end of the apparatus shown in
Figure 1.
Figures 3 and 4 are an end; and a front elevation respectively, showing the
cam and its connections.
Figures 5, 6, 7 are side, front and back views respectively of one of the presser
fingers enlarged.
Figure 8 is a diagram showing the form of the loops of the thickened knitted
fabric.
A, A, are swinging arms pivoted to the machine frame at a and carrying a
horizontal bar A. 'B is a shaft attached to the bar A¹ by means of brackets a¹
in which it is capable of sliding longitudinally. a² a² are steady brackets
attached to the shaft B and capable of sliding loosely on the bar Å¹. bis a
presser bar attached to the shaft B and carrying a number of grooved presser
fingers C is a wheel or disc mounted so as to be capable of revolving on the
bar A and having depressions c and intervening ridges c¹ formed on one side
thereof, and notches c³ formed on its periphery. 62 is a stop which is fixed to the
shaft B and engages with one of the ridges or depressions on the wheel C. 63 is
a spring one end of which is fixed to one of the brackets a², and the other
end of which is attached to one of the brackets a¹, and which tends to hold the
stop bin engagement with the wheel C. a³ is a spring arm attached to the bar A¹
and having a tooth at at its free end which engages with the notches on the
wheel C. c2 is a ratchet wheel attached to the wheel C, and with which a hooked
pawl D engages. The other end of this pawl.is pivoted to the machine frame at d.
d is a spring which connects the pawl 1) with a fixed rod 2 and normally holds
the said pawl in engagement with the ratchet wheel c². d³ is a cam which is
pivoted at d to the machine frame and when turned into the position shown in
17
+1

page_text: Figure 2, serves to throw the pawl D out of engagement with the ratchet wheel c
E is a lever pivoted to the machine frame at e and having its opposite end connected
by means of the rod el with the bar A e is a pivot carried by the lever E, on
which a roller eis, capable of sliding longitudinally. F is a rotary driving
shaft to which is keyed a roller f and a specially shaped cam f¹ e is a clutch
for throwing the roller c³ into engagement either with the roller for the cam f¹
as required. G are vertically operating needles of ordinary construction which
extend the whole length of the machine.
The roller e³ is held in contact with the roller for cam f¹ by the superincumbent
weight of the bar A¹ and its attachment.
The machine is fitted with the usual bobbins, and sliding thread guides.
The length of the presser bar b is equal to the width of increased thickness in
the garment to be knitted, and the presser fingers b¹ correspond to and are in the
same vertical line with every other one of the knitting needles above which the
presser bar is situated. The presser bar b can be moved longitudinally in either
direction, as hereinafter described, for a distance equal to the length between the
centres of two adjacent needles.
When knitting that part of the garment which is of ordinary thickness, the
knitting is performed in the usual manner by a single thread; the roller engag-
ing with the roller f and the presser bar 6 consequently remaining out of action.
When it is required to knit the thickened part of the garment the roller e³
is thrown into engagement with the cam f by, means, of the clutch and a second
thread is fed to those needles situated below the bar 6 and which are to knit
the said thickened part of the garment. The shaft F revolves in the direction
indicated by the arrow, and when the roller e falls on the first depression on
the cam f, the swinging arms A, the bar A¹, the shaft B, and presser bar b
also fall and the presser fingers b₁ engage. respectively with the tops of alternate
needles G which are then at their highest point.
7.
The beards of these needles are thus closed so that they cannot take the threads,
and, as the fingers b move in a circular path on the centre a, the needles them-
selves are thrust out away from the ordinary presser bar of the machine; as the
shaft continues to revolve the roller e³ reaches the prominence fix on the cam fl
with the result that the needles fall relatively faster than the fingers 61 and
though the heads of the needles still engage with the fingers, their beards
(being now clear of the ordinary presser bar) are allowed to open and as they
continue to descend take the previous loops. The fingers b' then rise and the
threads escape over the tops of these needles while the former loops are retained
thereon. Both the threads are looped in the usual way by the needles which
alternate but do not engage with the fingers bl.
When the bar A¹ falls as described, the pawl 1), (which is incapable of any
vertical movement), is caused to engage with a fresh tooth on the ratchet wheel 2;
the teeth on which are so arranged that when the arms A, bar A¹, and presser
bar 6 now rise as the cam fl continues to revolve, the wheel C is turned on the
bar A and the stop is either raised onto a ridge c or allowed to drop into a
depression c, the presser bar b being thereby shifted to the right or left for a
distance equal to the length between the centres of two or more adjacent needles
as the case may be. The spring arm a³ is for securing the absolute accuracy
of the position of the presser bar. As the cam f continues to revolve and the
presser bar again descends the presser fingers now co-operate (in the manner
already described) with the alternate needles which were free in the first descent
but which now in turn are caused to allow the threads to escape while still retain-
ing the former loops, the first mentioned set of alternate needles now looping both
threads. This operation is continued, the presser fingers 61 co-operating with the
alternate sets of needles for every fresh row of loops; the resulting thickened
fabric being composed of loops formed as shown in the accompanying diagram
(Figure 8).
We have described our invention with respect to mechanism especially adapted

page_text: to thicken the chests and backs of knitted vests or shirts but it is obvious that
our invention enables garments to be thickened at will at any parts where it may
be desirable to provide for extra warmth and to afford greater protection against
cold than is afforded by the ordinary thickness of the garment.
It is also obvious that the thickness of such thickened parts may be varied by
increasing or decreasing the number of extra threads.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:
1. The method of thickening any desired part of a knitted garment by varying
the character of the knitting at such part so as to produce a fabric of a softer and
thicker nature than that of the other parts of the garment, substantially as
described.
2. A straight knitting machine for the production of the herein described fabric,
constructed arranged and operating substantially as described, for the purpose
specified.
3. A knitted garment having a part or parts thereof increased in thickness by
varying the character of the knitting at such parts, substantially as hereinbefore
described and for the purpose specified.
· ננית
371
1
1000
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicants.