Improvements in Leno or Cross-over Weaving.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Mar., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 12th May, 1897-Accepted, 12th June, 1897
Improvements in Leno or Cross-over Weaving.
I, WILLIAM JOHN RILEY, of Holker Street Mill, Colne, Lancashire,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The improvements relate to leno or cross-over weaving, and have for object to
enable such weaving to be accomplished in greater variety than is attained at
present.
To accomplish this, and to effect my improvements, I provide more than one
doup warp to a single dent, such doup warps being of different colour, or thickness,
or both. These warps are each operated by a separate doup heald in the ordinary
manner, but so that one warp shall not interlock with another, during weaving.
In weaving those portions of the fabric arranged according to my improvements,
I first operate one of the doup healds to bring its warp on to the face of the cloth,
where a zig-zag or cross-over, or other leno effect, is formed for any desired distance,
as will be well understood; but when it is desired to effect a change, according to
my improvements, that doup warp is carried down to the back of the fabric, and at
the same time another of the doup warps in the same dent is brought forward to
take its place, until a further change is effected in like manner by a third doup
warp, or by the re-appearance of the first.
In this manner, a fabric is produced presenting stripes of varying colours or
thicknesses at those parts where the doup warps have been operated.
Variations in detail may be made, such as in the colours and thicknesses of the
doup warp threads, without departing from the peculiar character of the
invention.
Dated this 2nd day of March 1897
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64 Barton Arcade Manchester, Agent.
I, WILLIAM JOHN RILEY, of Holker Street Mill, Colne, Lancashire,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
The improvements relate to leno or cross-over weaving, and have for object to
enable such weaving to be accomplished in greater variety than is attained at
present.
To accomplish this, and to effect my improvements, I provide more than one doup
warp to a single dent in the reed of the loom, such doup warps being of different
colours, or thicknesses, or both. These warps are each operated by a separate doup
DQ77

page_text: heald by means of the jacquard or dobby in the ordinary manner, but the warp
threads in these doup healds are arranged so that one warp shall not interlock with
another, during weaving.
In weaving those portions of the fabric arranged according to my improvements,
I first operate by means of the jacquard or substitute one of the doup healds so as
to bring its warp on to the face of the cloth, when a zigzag or cross-over, or other
leno effect is formed or repeated for any desired distance, as will be well understood;
but when it is desired to effect a change, according to my improvements, that
particular doup warp.is carried down to the back of the fabric, and at the same
time another of the doup warps in the same dent is brought forward to take its
place to leno or cross-over on the front face of the fabric until a further change is
effected in like manner by the use of a third doup warp, or by the re-appearance of
the first.
In this manner, a fabric is produced presenting stripes of varying or intermittent
colours or thicknesses in the length of such stripes, at those parts where the doup
warps have been operated.
Variations in detail may be made, such as in the character of the stripes, the
colours and thicknesses of the doup warp threads, the length of operation of one
doup before another is employed, together with the width of such stripes, and the
design generally, may be made without departing from the peculiar character of
the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
In looms for weaving, the production of leno or cross-over effects by the use of
two or more doup warps in a single dent, the extra doup warps being of different
colours, or of different thicknesses to the ordinary doup warp, and so arranged that
while one or more of the doup warps are being woven on the front face of the
fabric, the other doup warp or warps is or are floated or continued along the back
of such fabric.
Tin 174 M 1907
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester, Agent for Applicant.