Improvements in Looms Employed for the Production of Ornamental Designs or Patterns upon Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Feb., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 19th Nov., 1894-Accepted, 19th Mar., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms Employed for the Production of Ornamental
Designs or Patterns upon Woven Fabrics.
I DUGALD SCOTT of 12 York Street Manchester in the County of Lancaster,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The invention relates to the production of ornamental designs or patterns upon
woven fabrics by the process known as lappet weaving, the object thereof being to
construct apparatus by which effects can be produced which have hitherto been
practically unattainable by the apparatus now ordinarily in use.
According to this invention the lappet needles are not fixed.in a frame capable
only of both horizontal and vertical motion as usual, but each needle is capable of
separate and independent vertical motion, although the whole series of needles pass
through, and can slide up and down through, a rail or bar to which a horizontal
motion may be imparted.
Each needle is prolonged in length and passes through a grid attached to and
carried by the slay sword below the shuttle race, and in order to allow of the
inclination of the needles as they move to and fro or sideways with the aforesaid
rail or bar, the latter is either made of an inverted trough section or the holes
therein are made conical or otherwise enlarged on the under side thereof.
Or the grid may have a horizontal motion imparted to it similar to that of the
needle bar or rail, and such motion of the grid may either take place simultaneously
with that of the needle bar, and in the same or the reverse direction, or the said
needle bar may be stationary while the grid moves.
Each lappet needle is connected to one of the hooks of a dobby, Jacquard, or
other pattern producing apparatus and thus the patterns produced by this apparatus
can be much more varied and elaborate than those produced by the ordinary
lappet frame.
The lappet ends are brought to the needles from a creel or bobbins or from
beans, and each end is passed over two tension rods carried at each end by a bell
cranked lever and through a lingo or heald between the rods, the said lingo being
raised by the same hook which raises its corresponding lappet needle, in order to
slacken the tension on the lappet end, when it is raised, each end having thus a
separate tension. Other devices may however be applied for this purpose.
The bell crank levers which carries the above named tension rods are connected
say by cords or otherwise to the slay or other equivalent part so that, as it beats up
the tension rods are depressed because all the needles pass under the woven fabric,
and as soon as the slay returns and the needles. rise again, the tension rods are
returned by springs to their former position and take up the slack.
The traverse of the bar through which the needles work is or may be obtained
and regulated by means similar to those now in use for obtaining and regulating
the horizontal movement of the ordinary lappet needle frame, or by a simple
shog" motion actuated from a dobby or Jacquard machine or otherwise. It will
66
be evident that more than one needle bar or more than one grid or more than one
of each may be used if desired.
Dashin 17th d of a 1001
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in Looms Employed for the Production of Ornamental
Designs or Patterns upon Woven Fabrics.
I, DUGALD SCOTT of 12 York Street, Manchester, Merchant and Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention relates to apparatus for the production of ornamental designs or
patterns upon woven fabrics by the process known as lappet weaving the object
thereof being to construct apparatus by which effects can be produced which have
hitherto been practically unattainable by the apparatus now ordinarily in use in
lappet weaving.
According to this invention the lappet needles are not fixed in a frame capable
only of both horizontal and vertical motion as usual but each needle is capable of
separate and independent vertical motion although the whole series of needles pass
through and can slide up and down through a rail or bar to which a horizontal
motion may be imparted.
Each needle is prolonged in length and passes through a grid attached to and
carried by the slay sword below the shuttle race and in order to allow of the
inclination of the needles as they move to and fro or sideways with the aforesaid
rail or bar the latter is either made of an inverted trough section or the holes
therein are made conical or otherwise enlarged on the underside thereof.
Or the grid may have a horizontal motion imparted to it similar to that of the
needle bar or rail and such motion of the grid may either take place simultaneously
with that of the needle bar and in the same or the reverse direction or the said
needle bar may be stationary while the grid moves.
Each lappet needle is independently connected to one of the hooks of a dobby
Jacquard or other pattern producing apparatus and thus the patterns produced by
this apparatus can be much more varied and elaborate than those produced by the
ordinary lappet frame.
The lappet ends are brought to the needles from a creel or bobbins or from
beams and each end is passed over two tension rods carried at each end by a bell-
cranked lever and through a lingo or heald between the rods the said lingo being
raised by the same hook which raises its corresponding lappet needle in order to
slacken the tension on the lappet end when it is raised each end having thus a
separate tension.
Other devices may however be applied for this purpose.
The bell crank levers which carry the above-named tension rods are connected
say by cords or otherwise to the slay or other equivalent part so that as it beats
up the tension rods are depressed (because all the needles pass under the woven
fabric) and as soon as the slay returns and the needles rise again the tension rods
are returned by springs to their former position and take up the slack.
The traverse of the bar through which the needles work is or may be obtained
and regulated by means similar to those now in use for obtaining and regulating
the horizontal movement of the ordinary lappet needle frame or by a simple
"shog" motion actuated from a dobby or Jacquard machine or otherwise. It will
be evident that more than one needle bar or more than one grid or more than one
of each may be used if desired.
And in order that my present invention may be easily understood and readily
carried into practice I will proceed to further describe same with reference to the
drawings hereunto annexed.

page_text: i is the slay.
j is slotted bar capable of being adjustably fixed to the needle bar f as shown in
Fig. 4 and having the projection thereon which operates between the fixed
bracket carried on the slay i and the adjustable bracket which has turned over
end thereto and is slotted and adjustable upon the fixed bracket k by means
of the clamping screw or other suitable means.
mm are the ordinary weighted cords or straps for imparting to and fro movement.
to the said needle barf (as is well understood) see Figs. 2 and 5.
When end way motion is thus imparted to the bar the extent of such motion is
limited by the distance of the end from the end ki of said bracket k which limits
the travel of the device j' fixed to the bar f-while the adjustment of the device j
upon the bar permits the exact adjustment of the needles to any desired point.
Instead of the "shog" regulating device just described I may if desired use in
place thereof what is known as a "lappet wheel "-which latter need not be here
further described or illustrated as it is well known and understood in the trade.
n is a cord or connection from each needle e to the hook of any suitable pattern
producing apparatus-advantageously a Jacquard machine-a separate and inde-
pendent cord n being brought from each needle e to a separate and independent.
hook in such apparatus or several of these cords n may be connected up to one
hook in such apparatus.
n is a separate cord or equivalent connected to the same hook as the cord n and
carries an eye n' through which the lappet end is led on its way from the reel or
bobbin o' to the needle e and this cord n' carries the lingo n³ or is otherwise
suitably weighted.
Thus each lappet end o is independently led through an eye n² independently
connected-together with its corresponding needle e-to the book of the jacquard
or equivalent and by passing this end o over two bars or supports p q thereby the
lingo causes a depression in the end o as shown in Fig. 3 while directly the
jacquard simultaneously lifts the cords n and n¹ thereby the eye n'is correspondingly

page_text: raised with the needle to which it guides the lappet end o and thus slackens the
latter corresponding to the amount of rise imparted to the said needle and again
simultaneously takes up the slack when the needle falls.
In order to again slacken the lappet end o at the moment when the needle goes
under the fabric at the "beat up "the whole of the lappet ends are passed over
the bar or support y which extends across the loom to include all the warp ends
(and passing under all the lappet ends o) and is carried at each end by the bell
crank levers r pivotted at r¹ to the frame of the loom.
s is a cord or connection from the slay frame to the free end of said bell crank
levers at each end of said bar g the length of this cords being such that same
only tightens just before the needles e pass under the fell of the cloth and thus it
will readily be seen the bar q is lowered and thereby slackens the whole of the
lappet ends o-while on the return movement of the slay frame the spring t
connected to the bar q lifts same up as the cords is slackened and thereby takes
up the slack in the ends o caused by the rearward movement or return of the slay
as the needles come from under the fell of the cloth.
uu are the warp ends controlled by the shafts or healds v operated in the usual
manner to produce a plain cloth or the warp ends may be guided or controlled in
any other desired and suitable manner.
w is coarse reed through which the lappet ends o are guided and kept separate
as they come from the reed o' or from any other suitable device creel bobbin beam
or the like.
x is false reed ordinarily used in lappet weaving machines for guiding the
shuttle.
I wish it to be distinctly understood that I do not confine myself to use only the
particular tension device as hereinbefore described as any other suitable tension
device or means for tightening and slackening the tension on each individual lappet
end o as desired may be used.
I wish it to be clearly understood also that if desired the independent lappet needles
may be inverted i.e. arranged to act in a frame hung from above with the needles
independently actuated and acting downwards instead of upwards as hereinbefore
described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A lappet weaving loom in which each lappet needle therein is arranged and
adapted to be independently lifted.
2. A lappet weaving loom in which each lappet needle therein is arranged and
adapted to be independently lifted in combination and acting in conjunction with
means to independently give the required amount of tension to each separate
lappet end.
3. A lappet weaving loom in which each lappet needle therein is arranged and
adapted to be actuated substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore
described.
4. A lappet weaving loom in which each lappet needle therein is arranged and
adapted to be independently lifted in combination and acting in conjunction with
means to give the required amount of tension to each or all of the separate lappet
ends substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described.
5. Arranging and mounting each of the lappet needles in a loom so as to be
capable of independent vertical movement with means for independently lifting
each said lappet needle so that any single needle or combination of needles can be
raised as desired.
6. In lappet weaving looms the combination of a lappet needle bar capable of
horizontal movement on the slay swords a grid attached to said slay swords lappet
needles independently mounted in and each capable of independent vertical
movement through said needle bar a separate connection to each such lappet

page_text: needle from a pattern producing apparatus and means to impart horizontal move-
ment to said needles.
7. In lappet weaving looms the combination of a lappet needle bar capable of
horizontal movement on the slay swords a grid attached to said slay swords lappet
needles independently mounted in and each capable of independent vertical move-
ment through said needle bar a separate connection to each such lappet needle
from a pattern producing apparatus and means to impart horizontal movement to
said needles substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore
described.
8. In lappet weaving looms the combination of independently mounted needles
such as e a separate connection such as n from a pattern producing apparatus to
each such needle respectively a second and separate connection such as n¹ from such
pattern producing apparatus to an eye or loop such as n² controlling a lappet end
so that the tension on such lappet end is simultaneously and correspondingly eased
as its needle is lifted substantially in the manner and for the purpose hereinbefore
described and illustrated in the drawings hereunto annexed.
9. The improved lappet weaving loom arranged constructed combined and acting
substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described and
illustrated in the drawings hereunto annexed.
Deted this 19th day of November 1894.
TONGUE & BIRKBECK,
34, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.