IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE A MACHI
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Morgan-Brown, Patent Agent, of 38, Southampton
Buildings, London, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE
A communication from abroad by John Reece, of
SEWING MACHINES."
Boston, Massachusetts, United States of America.
PROVISIONAI. SPECIFICATION left by the said William Morgan-Brown at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 27th April 1881.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, Patent Agent, of 38, Southampton Buildings,
London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINES." [A communi-
cation from abroad by John Reece, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States of
America.]
This Invention relates to sewing machines for stitching button holes, and is an
improvement upon that class of the said machines wherein the stitching mechanism
is made to travel first along one side of the button hole slit, then about the eyo
and along the other side of the slit.
In this machine the needle bar, besides its regular reciprocations vertically, is
partially rotated at each end of the button hole slit, but stitches the material at
but one of the said ends, viz., that one having the eye. This needle bar has two
thread carrying needles, one of which, the shortest one, always penetrates the
material back from the edge to be over stitched while the other or longer needle
always enters the slit.
These two needles on one bar are not herein claimed as of this Invention except
when combined with certain other things, as will be hereinafter carefully set forth
and specified. The threads of these needles are entered and concatenated for an
over. edge stitch by means of a looper, and this looper is so pivotted, as hereinafter
described, as to rotate about a line coincident with the axis of rotation of the
needle bar if prolonged; thus enabling the looper to always operate correctly and
in time with the needles on the semi-rotating needle bar.
The machine has connected with it a controlling bar, which by adjustments in
its position on the bed plate controls the starting and stopping of the vertical
movement of the needle bar, and the movement of the looper to correspond with
the size of the button hole to be stitched, the movement of the needle bar and its
operative parts being automatically stopped as each button hole is finished, no
matter what may be its length.
A travelling or moving framework carries the stitching mechanism, and also
carries a cutter to cut a button hole slit in the material held in a clamp attached

page_text: to the bedplate. The threals for both needles pass over one tension device
controlled by a single nut, and each thread is held at exactly the same tension
under all conditions, whereby each of the threads used in making the button hole
stitch is fed off positively by the rotation of the tension device, to thus insure
just the proper amount of thread and keep the purl of the stitch straight and
uniform.
An overhanging movable frame work mounted on a stationary bed plate and
directly carrying all the stitching mechanism and other moving parts to be referred
to hereinafter as suitable journals to support the main shaft of the machine, having
upon it an excentric for driving the needle bar, the said excentric being joined by
an excentric strap with one end of the needle actuating lever, having a fulcrum
and connected in usual manner with a block which surrounds the needle bar, the
latter being held loocely in the said block, rising and falling in unison with it by
means of a nut or washer and a shoulder on the needle bar, the said nut and
shoulder being above and below the said block respectively.
This needle bar at its lower end has an eye pointed cloth penetrating needle,
and a larger and longer eye pointed over edge or slit needle.
The bracket arm of
the movable frame at front is provided with a pinion having a tubular axle
extended upward and fitted loosely into the lower end of the said arm, and at the
upper end of this axle is a collar to prevent the pinion dropping out of said arm.
This axle serves as the lower bearing for the needle bar.
The pinion is engaged by the teeth of a toothed sector, which the proper times,
as will be hereinafter described, will be made to partially rotate the needle bar.
This pinion has depending from it a slotted guide plate, into and through which
is extended a shoulder of the needle bar.
This guide plate at its front side has pivotted upon it a loop spreader, it having
an irregular groove into which is entered a pin of the needle bar, the said groove
being so shaped as to cause the said pin to actuate the spreader during each descent
of the needle-bar, causing the spreader to be moved or vibrated about its pivot or
'centre of motion toward the needles, so that the forked point or end of the spreader
will catch upon the thread of the over-edge needle or slit needle between the cloth
and the eye of the said needle, and carry it backward over the edge of the
material, the said spreader laying the thread of the said needle back far enough
from the said edge being overstitched, and upon the surface of the material
immediately under the path of descent of the work-penetrating needle, which
latter is shorter than the slit needle, so that the work penetrating needle before
penetrating the material enters the loop so formed, and laid upon it by the
spreader.
The main shaft carries a disc, upon which is pivoted a link having an eccentric.
This eccentric has at one edge of it a hole to receive a pin carried by an arm or
crank of a short journal sustained in a hub of the main frame work.
This eccentric is embraced by the eccentric strap and link attached at its lower
end to the rear end of a lever pivotted upon an arın fixed to the movable of the
main frame-work. This eccentric and crank pin located as described with relation
to each other act to produce for the looper mechanism to be described an irregular
inotion in such time with relation to the first eccentric for moving the needle
har, as to enable the needles and looper to properly co-operate in the formation of
the stitch, all the said eccentrics being operated by the same shaft.
This lever is at its outer end provided with a fork to receive a ball like
termination of a short arm of a carrier for the looper, the latter being made
substantially like a crochet or hooked-needle and not carrying a thread.
The length of the short arm of the lever and that of the looper carrier are so
proportioned that the connection between the said two arms is made in a plano
coincident with the axis of the needle-bar, or in other words, the contact points
between the fork of the arm and the short arm of the carrier are so made and
located that were the needle-bar prolonged it would enter the centre of the said
point.

page_text: This connection of the lever or driver for moving the looper carrier with the
said looper-carrier in the manner designated enables me to operate the said looper-
carrier and looper in a like manner and for a like distance with relation to the
needles under all changes of position of the needles and looper, thus preserving
the proper time of operation of the looper with the needles under their changed
positions, as hereinafter described. This looper-carrier is mounted loosely upon a
pin fixed in ears of a pinion, having a hollow axle extended upward through a hole
in the arm fixed to the movable frame work.
This hollow axle receives within it the shank of the throat plate, made circular
at its upper end or top, and provided with a slot to receive both needles at each
descent thereof, there being below the said throat-plate an open space to receive
the looper and permit it to cooperate in the proper manner with the threads
carried by the said needles to form the button-hole stitch, as hereinafter set forth.
In practice the upper part thereof through which the needles descend will be
about 3 of an inch in diameter, while the part of an inch below it will
be 1', inches in diameter.
The lower end of this shank receives a suitable set screw, by which to securely
attach it to the gear axle. The "cast off" is mounted upon the "cast off" carrier,
which is fitted to move more or less tightly upon the fixed pin by means of a
binding screw extended through the forked or split part of the said "cast-off"
carrier, so that the friction between the said cast off carrier and the pin may be
regulated at will.
The cast-off carrier is provided with a slot to receive a pin projecting from the
looper carrier, the said pin having more or less lost motion or play in the said slot
so as to operate the cast off carrier and cast-off only at the extremes of motion of
the looper and its carrier, so as to enable the said "cast off" to operate in the
usual manner to shut or cover the hook of the looper or uncover it, so that it will
either hold or discharge the loops of thread in the proper manner.
This looper in operation enters the loops of thread carried by both the needles,
and being uncovered it, on its return motion, catches below the work or material
the loop of thread carried by the penetrating needle, and draws it laterally toward
the edge of the work being stitched, and through the loop of thread in the eye of
the over-edge needle, the hook of the looper being closed or covered by the cast-
off by the time that the said hook is ready to pass out from the loop of thread
carried by the needle, thus preventing the looper catching the thread of the said
needle.
The eye of the penetrating needle being located nearer the under surface of the
work than the eye of the slit needle, gives the looper sufficient time to draw the
loop of the penetrating needle out through the loop of the slit needle before its eye
in the ascent of the said needles reaches the underside of the work, and the loop of
thread so drawn from the penetrating needle acts to lock the loop of thread carried
by the over-edge needle.
The looper holds the loop of thread drawn out by it as described while the stitch
is being drawn taut, and also until the needles have again desconded, as before
described, when the looper is again moved forward through the loop of both of the
said needles, as before described, catching the loop formed in the thread of the
perforating needle, and drawing it, as before described, through the loop of the slit
needle and through that loop of the thread of the perforating needle previously
drawn out laterally, as described, through the loop of the slit needle, and yet held
by the shank of the looper, the cast off closing the hook of the looper to permit the
loop being taken from the thread of the perforating needle to be drawn through
the loop previously taken therefrom, thus enchaining below the work the thread of
the perforating needle with or through the loops made in the thread of the slit
needle, a bend or bight in the thread of the needle laid back by the loop spreader
from the edge being stitched, worked, or covered, is entered and held by the thread
of the perforating needle. In practice I prefer to have the thread carried by the
over-edge or non-penetrating needle cover the inner edges of the button hole slit,

page_text: and this thread may be of any suitable size, usually larger than the thread of the
perforating needle.
The threads for the two needles enter the central hole at the top of the needle
bar, and thence out laterally through suitable eyes in the thread guide, the delivery
of the thread being thus kept uniform as the needle bar is rotated. The gears in
connection with the needle bar and looper actuating mechanism are moved or
turned progressively in unison by means of sectors. The sector that engages the
pinion is pivoted upon the bracket arm of the framework, and the sector on a
circular casing affixed to and forming a portion of the movable framework, and
these two sectors are joined together by a rod or connection which causes them to
move simultaneously in the same direction at the same speed.
The lowermost sector has a backwardly extended arm provided with a roller, pin,
or stud that is extended through a slot in the said casing, and extended into a groove
at the underside of a grooved cam or disc mounted upon a hollow stud of the said
casing, the said groove being of the proper shape to hold the sectors, pinions, needle-
bar, needles, looper, in position for all the stitching mechanism to travel horizontally
along the straight sides of the button-hole slit, and at the proper time as when the
eye part or enlarged end of the button hole is being stitched to gradually move the
said sectors so as to progressively turn the pinions, needle bar, and looper so that
the penetrating needle will travel in a circle about the enlarged end or eye of the
button hole. During this semi rotation of the needle bar the over edge needle
travels slower than the penetrating needle, and in the arc of a smaller circle.
In practice the needles will be made laterally adjustablo on the needles according
to distance back from the edge desired to be covered by the stitch. The fir needle,
which always penetrates the material in order that it may be adjusted laterally, is
held by a screw in a spring arm connected by a screw with the needle bar, an
adjusting screw being inserted in the said bar to control the distance between the
needles. The slit needle is held as usual by a screw.
The cam disc at its upper side is recessed so as to leave about its periphery an
upwardly projecting flange, within which is placed a friction clutch device and a
connected lever, the end of which is acted upon by a lever vibrated by a suitable
eccentric or cam fast to a belt wheel, which wheel and cam are loose upon the main
shaft. The clutch device is a curved piece of metal placed within the recess at the
face of the disc and within the flange. The lever pivoted to one end of this clutch
device and extended out over the flange to be struck by the lever is also connected
with the said clutch device by a link, that movement of lever which tends to bring the
pivots into the same straight line spreading the clamping device and causing it
to gripe the rim and turn the disc.
This friction device is not of my Invention, but is a device commonly employed
to move the feed wheel in sewing machines, and instead of it any other usual.
friction device may be employed. The lever has its fulcrum, and the approach of
its upper end towards the centre of the shaft is controlled by the adjusting screw
which will abut against any suitable part of the framework.
The bed or cloth plate of the machine is fixed, and has attached to it the cloth
clamp.
The movable frame work which carries the stitching and cutting mechanism is
mounted upon the flat and narrow elevated ledges of the stationary bed plate, so as
to be moved backward and forward thereon in the direction of the length of the
button hole slit for a distance equal to the length of the longest button hole to the
stitched on the machine.
In addition to this forward and backward movement, the said frame work and
its connected parts is also moved laterally or vibrated about the stud as a center, as
the needles (one edge of one side of the button hole slit having been stitched) are
to pass around the eye of the button hole to stitch, the other straight and parallel
side of the said button hole slit, the said stud being fixed in the stationary plate
and resting in the groove at the upper side of the disc.
The forward motion of the movable frame and connected needle bar and looper

page_text: mechanism is produced by the cam groove at the top of the cam disc, unto which
extends the roller pin or stud connected with the fixed bed plate. The bottom
part of the movable frame is provided with a slot to receive the upper end, as
herein shown, of the said pin or stud extended above plate, and provided with a
block and rotation of dise containing groove, the said groove receiving the stud of
the fixed plate causes the said disc and frame work in which its carrying stud is
mounted to slide longitudinally. The flat or smooth bottom part of the frame
resting on the elevated smooth ledges of the plate may be moved forward thereon,
or be vibrated or moved laterally thereon at suitable times about the stud as a
fulcrum, different parts of the framework so vibrated about the said stud occupying
at different times different positions longitudinally with relation to the said stud,
according to the part of the groove to be occupied by the stud.
Connected with the casing of the movable frame is a rock shaft having two arms.
The lower arm has a pin or roller. stud which is extended through the slot in the
casing, and made to enter the cam groove at the underside of the said cam disc.
The other arm of the said rock shaft has a pin or stud that enters the groove at
the lower side of the fixed bed plate and at the rear of the stud. The cam groove
of the rotating disc having its carrying stud or axis made as a fixed part of the
movable frame acts upon the stud of the arm of the rock shaft, and turns the said
rock shaft, and as the pin carried by the arm bears upon or rests against the fixed
or immovable bed, it results that the rock shaft must move away laterally from the
slot of the fixed plate, thus carrying with it the movable framework vibrating the
latter, and all the stitch making parts laterally more or less in the arc of a circle
about the fixed stud. The extent of the forward and vibrating movements of the
stitching parts depends upon the disc and the shape of the grooves therein, they
acting to change the position of the movable frame and needle bar, to enable the
needles, one side of the button hole having been stitched, to pass about the rounded
end or eye of the button hole ready to be again moved horizontally along and
parallel with the opposite side of the button hole next to be stitched. In other
words, the result and action of the two cam grooves is such as to cause the axis of.
the needle bar to travel in a path corresponding in shape with the straight part
and rounded eye of a button hole.
The material or garment in which the button hole to be stitched is made is
inserted between the upper and lower members of a clamp, which is made movable,
so as to expand the button hole while held by the clamp. The button holo is cut
by an automatically operated cutter.
The underparts of this clamp, serrated, are pivoted upon the stationary work
supporting or cloth plate. At or near the rear end of these jaws are tubular
hollow post to receive within them the rods with which are connected the upper
arms or members of the clamp, the said arms being serrated at their upper sides.
The lower end of each of these rods is attached to a spring carried by the arms
of a rock shaft secured to the underside of the bed plate in lugs or ears.
The arms
are normally pulled upward by a spring beneath the bed plate.
On the casing are tubular projections to receive through them suitable screws to
attach the said casing to the part, and leave a space between for the bed plate, the
said screws, or they may be bolts entering holes in the sill of the frame.
At the underside of the bed plate are two narrow flat surfaces. In the casing
are set two blocks made adjustable by suitable screws. The said screws acting upon
the said blocks after the parts are secured together may be made to press against
the surfaces with more or less force, and take up any wear between the sliding
frame work and the bed plate.
The blade of the button hole cutter is carried by a lever pivoted on the frame.
The long end of the lever is curled or turned down, and is by a spring held down
so as to be struck by a cam on the disc. The bed plate has connected with it a .
cutting block, having at each side cam shaped edges, that at the first part of the :
backward movement of the frame strike the studs herein before described, and
separate them, causing the upper and lower parts of the clamp to separate.

page_text: Prior to this movement however the cloth or material is supposed to have been
pinched between the upper and lower members of the said clamp by the lever, the
lower end of which is made to act upon and depress the outer end of one of the
arms of the rock shaft, and the button hole cutter is supposed to have been
depressed by the cam, and to have cut the button hole slit, and to have risen from
the cloth. The lever pivoted in ears is extended through the slot in line with
one of the arms, which arm has its end bevelled or inclined, and is supported or
drawn upwardly by the spring. The arms being connected by the rock shaft and
supporting the upper members of the clamp by means of their pins connected to
springs as before described, it will follow that the backward movement of the
lever will depress the arms and the clamp arms to hold the button hole material
while being cut, spread, and stitched; but as soon as this lever is released, as at
the completion of a button hole, the beveled end of the spring drawn arms will
throw the lever backward and release the goods. The depression of the clamps by
the lever causes sufficient friction between them and the bed plate to hold them,
and the button hole spread apart while the stitching is being done.
The main shaft has upon it a loose band or belt wheel having a rigidly attached
clutching disc made hollow to receive the half disc, and also a piece of india rubber,
the latter being embraced at its side by a lip. There is a clutching disc fast on
main shaft and provided with a spring dog which has a wedge shaped side. When
the machine is stitching, the edge or face of the dog is in engagement with the
edge of the half disc, so that the discs will rotate together with the shaft. The
rubber against which the half disc rests yields under the pressure of contact of
parts, so as to take the jar of the starting off the stitching mechanism.
These parts constitute a clutch and also a balance wheel by which to drive the
machine.
Upon the frame is pivotted a stopping device, which is made as a rocker shaft,
with two arms. The arm of the said stopping device has a finger to enter a notch
at the end of the disc, and when the said finger is permitted to enter the said notch
it acts upon the beveled end of the dog, and disengage said dog from the half disc,
whereby the parts are free to run loose on the main shaft.
Of the two threads entering into the stitch made by my machine and carried by
the two needles, it is necessary in order to locate the purl that the proper amount
of thread be delivered to each needle, and that each thread should be kept at the
same tension. To do this I employ for the threads a rotating tension device, about
which each thread is wound once, so that the tierce device turned by one thread
will positively roll off the other thread for the proper distance. In this particular
form of my Invention I desire the tension device to feed off more thread for the
penetrating needle than for the over edge needle, and I have consequently so
devised that part of the tension device over which the thread carried by the.
penetrating needle moves, so that it may have its diameter increased as much
beyond the diameter of the other part of the tension device about which the other
thread of the other needle is wound as may be desired.
'
This part of the tension device over which the thread going to the over edge
needle is wound is placed upon a rod, having at its outer end a spring and a nut.
This part is a disc provided with a V shaped periphery or groove, and is not of my
Invention. Fixed to this part is the hut or central part of the flanged disc
provided at its edge with a series of equidistant prongs. About the hut of this.
disc is placed a spring, and then there is placed on the said hut the fellow disc
made like the flanged disc. The prongs of these two discs constitute that part of
the tension device about which the thread passing to the cloth penetrating needle.
is wound and interlocked, and kept so by the nut, and by moving the said nut and
by the said spring these two dises may be made to approach each other and
diminish the effective diameter of the said discs, or vice versa, thus regulating as
may be desired an excess of delivery of one thread over the other.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Morgan-Brown in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
27th October 1881.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, Patent Agent, of 38, Southampton Buildings,
A communi-
London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINES."
cation from abroad by John Reece, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States of
America.
This Invention relates to sewing machines for stitching button holes, and is an
improvement upon that class of the said machines wherein the stitching mechanism
is made to travel first along one side of the button hole slit, then about the eye and
along the other side of the slit.
In this machine the needle bar, besides its regular reciprocations vertically, is
partially rotated at each end of the button hole slit, but stitches the material at.
but one of the said ends, viz., that one having the eye. This needle bar has two.
thread carrying needles, one of which, the shortest one, always penetrates the
material back from the edge to be overstitched, while the other or longer needle
always enters the slit.
:
These two needles on one bar are not herein claimed as of this Invention, except
when combined with certain other things, as will be hereinafter carefully set forth
and specified. The threads of these needles are entered and concatenated for an
over edge stitch by 'means of a looper, and this looper is so pivoted, as herein after
described, as to rotate about a line coincident with the axis of rotation of the
needle bar if prolonged, thus enabling the looper to always operate correctly and
in time with the needles on the semi rotating needle bar..
The machine has connected with it a controlling bar, which by adjustments in
its position on the bed plate controls the starting and stopping of the vertical
movement of the needle bar and the movement of the looper to correspond with
the size of the button hole to be stitched, the movement of the needle bar and its
operative parts being automatically stopped as each button hole is finished, no
matter what may be its length.
A travelling or moving frame work carries the stitching mechanism, and also
carries a cutter to cut a button hole slit in the material held in a clamp attached
to the bed plate. The threads for both needles pass over one tension device
controlled by a single nut, and each thread is held at exactly the same tension
under all conditions, whereby each of the threads used in making the button hole
stitch is fed off positively by the rotation of the tension device to thus insure just
the proper amount of thread, and keep the purl of the stitch straight and uniform.
Figure 1 represents in perspective a button hole sewing machine, the parts being
in the position they will occupy just prior to clamping the material and cutting the
button hole slit containing my improvements; Figure 2, a longitudinal, section in
perspective of the same, the operative parts being however in the position they will
a vertical transverse section on a
occupy when the needle bar is up; Figure
reduced scale of the machine in the line of the centre of the main shaft looking
from the rear toward the front of the machine, the said shaft being in elevation,
the looper moving cranks being also in elevation; Figure 4, a top plan view with
the bracket arm and its attached parts removed; Figure 5 an underside view of
Figure 4, the looper and looper carrier being omitted; Figures 6 and 7, details of
the crank for operating the lever that actuates the looper carrier; Figure 8, details
of the clutching parts for starting and stopping the machine; Figure 9, the lever to :
strike a dog and release the clutch pulley to stop the machine; Figure 10, an edge
and top view of the controlling bar to. control the time when the stitching

page_text: mechanism shall commence to operate as the framework is being travelled over the
button hole, the said bar governing consequently the length of the button hole;
Figure 11, an underside view of the bed plate alone; Figure 12, a cross section
thereof; Figure 13, an interior view of the so called removable casing and its
attached arm, it forming part of the moveable frame work; Figure 14, a
longitudinal section thereof on the dotted line a, a, Figure 13; Figure 15, a top view
of the cam disc that imparts to the mechanism its various movements; Figure 16, an
underside view of the said cam; Figure 17, an underside view of the bracket arm
of the movable frame work, the said Figure showing the smooth bottom a thereof
adapted to rest upon the smooth topped raised ledges of the fixed bed plate, as the
relative positions horizontally of the bracket arm and bed plate are changed while
Stitching a button hole; Figure 18, details showing the cloth clamp; Figure 19, a
detail showing the lever to depress the arm m' of the cloth clamp; Figure 20, a
detail of the mechanism for moving the frame work laterally at the end of the
button hole slit to enable the stitching mechanism to stitch around the eye of the
button hole, and then along the opposite side of the button hole; Figure 21, an
enlarged detail of the looper and looper carrier, the looper being partially in section
longitudinally, the said Figure at the right also showing a cross section of the
looper; Figure 22, a similar view of the left hand part of Figure 21; Figure 23, an
enlarged sectional detail of the gear about the needle bar, the loop spreader and
connections between it and the needle bar; Figure 24, an enlarged detail of the
spreader; Figure 25, an enlarged view showing the needle bar with its attached
thread guide in section and also the block and collar and shoulder to ensure proper
reciprocations of the bar; Figure 26, details of the point of the spreader; Figure 27,
the stitch produced by my machine; Figure 28, details of my improved tension
device; Figure 29 is a detail Drawing showing the two needles, needle bar, and
adjusting devices therefor on a larger scale; Figure 30 is an enlarged side
elevation of the needle throat in two positions removed from the machine, showing
the space in which the looper works; Figure 31 is a detail showing the clutch
mechanism for driving the disc which imparts the longitudinal and lateral
movements to the travelling frame that carries the stitching mechanism, etc.,
showing also the mode of actuating said clutch mechanism from the main shaft;
Figure 32, a diagram showing the path in which the axis of the needle bar moves
while stitching a button hole; and Figure 33 is a cross section on line y, y,
Figure 1, of the clutch mechanism on the main shaft for actuating the needles, the
looper, and cast off.
The overhanging movable frame work a mounted on the stationary bed plate a¹,
and directly carrying all the stitching mechanism and other moving parts to be
referred to hereinafter, bas suitable journals to support the main shaft a² of the
machine, having upon it an eccentric b for driving the needle bar, the said eccentric
being joined by an eccentric strap.c with one end of the needle actuating lever c¹,
having its fulcrum at c², and connected in usual manner with a block c³, which
surrounds the needle bar, the latter being held loosely in the said block, rising and
falling in unison with it by means of a nut or washer c and a shoulder c5 on the
needle bar, the said nut and shoulder being above and below the said block
respectively.
This needle bar at its lower end has an eye pointed cloth penetrating needle d,
and a larger and longer eye pointed over edge or slit needle d. The bracket arm
of the movable frame a at front is provided with a pinion having a tubular
axle d³ extended upward and fitted loosely into the lower end of the said arm, and
at the upper end of this axle is a collar d to prevent the pinion dropping out of
said arm.
This axle serves as the lower bearing for the needle bar b¹.
The pinion d is engaged by the teeth of the toothed. sector e, which at the
proper times, as will be hereinafter described, will be made to partially rotate the
needle bar. bl.
This pinion has depending from it a slotted guide. plate d, into and through
which is extended a shoulder d of the needle bar, see Figures 2 and 23.

page_text: This guide plate at its front side has pivotted upon it at d' the loop spreader d³,
it having an irregular groove do, into which is entered a pin 66 of the needle bar,
the said groove being so shaped as to cause the said pin to actuate the spreader
during each descent of the needle bar, causing the spreader to be moved or
vibrated about its pivot or centre of motion toward the needles, so that the forked
point or end 10 of the spreader will catch upon the thread of the over edgo
needle between the cloth and the eye of the said needle, and carry it backward
over the edge of the material, the said spreader laying the thread of the said
needle back far enough from the said edge being overstitched, and upon the
surface of the material immediately under the path of descent of the work
penetrating needle d, which latter is shorter than the needle ', so that the work
penetrating needle, before penetrating the material, enters the loop so formed and
laid upon it by the spreader.
The main shaft carries a disc f, upon which at f¹ is pivoted a link ƒ having an
eccentric f³.
This eccentric has at one edge of it a hole f to receive a pin f³, carried by
an arm or crank f of a short journal f' sustained in a hub f3 of the main frame
work a.
This eccentric f³ is embraced by the eccentric strap and link f' attached at its
lower end (see Figure 2) to the rear end of a lever g, pivoted at g¹ upon an arm a³
fixed to the movable piece of the main frame work a. This eccentric f³ and
crank pin f, located as described with relation to each other, act to produce for
the looper mechanism to be described an irregular motion in such time with
relation to the eccentric 6 for moving the needle bar as to enable the needles and
looper to properly cooperate in the formation of the stitch, all the said eccentrics
being operated by the same shaft.
This lever g is at its outer end provided with a fork g² to receive a ball like
termination of the short arm ³ of the carrier g¹ for the looper 2, the latter
being made substantially like a crochet or hooked needle, and not carrying a
thread.
The length of the short arm of the lever g and that of the looper carrier are so
proportioned that the connection between the said two arms is made in a plane
coincident with the axis of the needle bar; or in other words, the contact points
between the forked g² of the arm g and the short arm g³ of the carrier g* are so
made and located that were the needle bar b¹ prolonged it would enter the centre
of the said point.
This connection of the lever g or driver for moving the looper carrier 9 with
the said looper carrier in the manner designated, enables me to operate the said
looper carrier and looper in a like manner and for a like distance with relation to
the needles under all changes of position of the needles and looper, thus preserving
the proper time of operation of the looper with the needles under their changed
positions, as hereinafter described. This looper carrier is mounted loosely upon a
pin g fixed in ears g of a pinion g', having a hollow axle g extended upward
through a hole in the arm a fixed to the movable frame work a.
This hollow axle receives within it the shank n of the throat plate n¹, made
circular at its upper end or top and provided with a slot n² to receive both
needles d, d, at each descent thereof, there being below the said throat plate an
open space n³ to receive the looper 2 and permit it to co-operate in the proper
manner with the threads carried by the said needles to form the button-hole stitch,
as herein-after set forth. This throat plate n¹ is shown separately in Figure 30.
In practice the upper part thereof next the letter n¹, through which the needles.
descend, will be about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, while the part n*, 5/8 of an inch
below it, will be 11/8 inches in diameter.
The lower end of this shank n receives a suitable set screw, by which to securely
attach it to the gear axle. The "cast-off" 3 is mounted upon the "cast off"
carrier h, which is fitted to move more or less tightly upon the fixed pin g³ by

page_text: means of a binding screw h¹ extended through the forked or split part of the said
"cast-off" carrier (see Figures 2 and 21), so that the friction between the said
cast off carrier and the pin may be regulated at will.
The cast-off carrier is provided with a slot to receive a pin a projecting from
the looper carrier, the said pin having more or less lost motion or play in the said
slot, so as to operate the cast-off carrier and cast-off only at the extremes of motion
of the looper and its carrier, so as to enable the said "cast-off" to operate in the
usual manner to shut or cover the hook of the looper 2 or uncover it, so that it
will either hold or discharge the loops of thread in the proper manner.
This looper 2 in operation enters the loops of thread carried by both the needles,
and being uncovered it, on its return motion, catches below the work or material the
loop of thread carried by the penetrating needle d and draws it laterally toward
.the edge of the work being stitched, and through the loop of thread in the eye of
the over-edge needle d', the hook of the looper being closed or covered by the
cast-off 3 by the time that the said hook is ready to pass out from the loop of
thread carried by the needle d', thus preventing the looper catching the thread of
the said needle.
The eye of the penetrating needle d being located nearer the under surface of the
work than the eye of the needle d' gives the looper sufficient time to draw the loop
of the penetrating needle & out through the loop of the needle before its eye in
the ascent of the said needles reaches the under side of the work, and the loop of
thread so drawn from the penetrating needle acts to lock the loop of thread carried
by the overedge needle d¹.
The looper holds the loop of thread drawn out by it as described while the stitch
is being drawn taut, and also until the needles have again descended as before
described, when the looper is again moved forward through the loops of both of
the said needles as before described, catching the looped formed in the thread of the
perforating needle, and drawing it as before described through the loop of the
needle d', and through that loop of the thread of the perforating needle previously
drawn out laterally as described through the loop of the needle d', and yet held by
the shank of the looper 2, the cast-off closing the hook of the looper to permit the
loop being taken from the thread of the perforating-needle, to be drawn through
the loop previously taken therefrom, thus enchaning below the work the thread of
the perforating-needle with or through the loops made in the thread of the needle ¹,
a bend or bight in the thread of the needle di laid back by the loop spreader from
the edge being stitched, worked, or covered is entered and held by the thread of
the perforating-needle. In practice I prefer to have the thread carried by the over
edge or non penetrating needle d¹ cover the inner-edges of the button-hole slit, and
this thread may be of any suitable size, usually larger than the thread of the
perforating needle d.
The threads for the two needles enter the central hole b² at the top of the needle
bar (see Figure 25), and thence out laterally through suitable eyes in the thread
guides, the delivery of the thread being thus kept uniform as the needle-bar is
rotated. The gears d², g', in connection with the needle-bar b' and looper actuating
mechanism are moved or turned progressively in unison by means of sectors. The
sector e that engages the pinion d is pivotted at e upon the bracket arm of the
frame-work a, and the sector e² at e³ on a circular casing a affixed to and forming
a portion of the movable frame-work, and these two sectors are joined together by
a rod or connection et which causes them to move simultaneously in the same
direction at the same speed.
The lower-most sector e² has a backwardly extended arm e5 (see Figure 5)
provided with a roller-pin or stud e° that is extended through a slot e in the said
casing a, and extended into a groove 4 at the underside of the grooved cam or
disc mounted upon a hollow stud as of the said casing, the said groove being of
the proper shape to hold the sectors, pinions, needle-bar, needles, and looper in
position for all the stitching mechanism to travel horizontally along the straight
_ sides of the button-hole slit, and at the proper. time, as when the eye-part or.

page_text: enlarged end of the button hole is being stitched to gradually move the said sectors
so as to progressively turn the pinions, needle-bar, and looper, so that the pene-
trating-needle will travel in a circle about the enlarged end or eye of the button
hole. During this semi rotation of the needle bar the over edge needle travels
slower than the penetrating needle and in the arc of a smaller circle.
In practice the needle d, d, will be made laterally adjustable on the needles
according to distance back from the edge desired to be covered by the stitch.
Referring to Figure 29, the needle d, which always penetrates the material in order
that it may be adjusted laterally, is held by the screw in the spring arm w
connected by screw w with the needle bar b, an adjusting screw w being inserted
in the said bar to control the distance between the needles d, d'. Needle d' is
held as usual by the screw w10.
The cam disc j at its upper side (see Figures 2, 15, and 31), is herein shown as
recessed so as to leave about its periphery an upwardly projecting flange j¹, within
which is placed a friction clutch device shown in detail in Figure 31, and a
connected lever 5, the end of which (see also Figures 3 and 4), is acted upon by a
lever j vibrated by a suitable excentric or cam w fast to a belt wheel, which
wheel and cam are loose upon the main shaft a². The clutch device is herein
shown as a curved piece of metal placed within the recess at the face of the discj
and within the flange j'. The lever 5 pivotted to one end of this clutch device, as
in Figure 31, and extended out over the flange j1 to be struck by the lever j³, is
also connected with the said clutch device by a link w³, that movement of the
lever 5 which tends to bring the pivots y³, y, y, into the same straight line,
spreading the clamping device j2 and causing it to grip the rim j¹ and turn the
disc j.
This friction device is not of my Invention, but is a device commonly employed
to move the feed-wheel in sewing machines, and instead of it any other usual friction
device may be employed. The lever j³ has its fulcrum at 3, and the approach
of its upper end toward the centre of the shaft a² is controlled by the adjusting
screw, which will abut against any suitable part of the frame work.
The bed or cloth plate a¹ of the machine is fixed and has attached to it the cloth
clump to be described.
The movable frame work a, a³, a, which carries the stitching and cutting
mechanisms is mounted upon the flat and narrow elevated ledges of the stationary
bed plate so as to be moved backward and forward thereon in the direction of the
length of the button-hole slit for a distance equal to the length of the longest
button hole to be stitched on the machine.
In addition to this forward and backward movement. the said frame-work and
its connected parts is also moved laterally or vibrated about the stud j as a centre,
as the needles (one edge of one side of the button hole slit having been stitched
are to pass around the eye of the button hole to stitch the other straight and
parallel side of the said button hole slit, the said stud being fixed in the
stationary plate a¹ and resting in the groove 6 at the upper side of the disc j, as
in Figure 2.
The forward motion of the movable frame a, a³, at, and connected needle bar
and looper mechanism is produced by the cam groove 6 at the top of the cam disc j,
into which extends the roller pin or stud j connected with the fixed bed-plate a¹.
The bottom part as of the movable frame a is provided with a slot a7 (see Figure 17)
to receive the upper end, as herein shown, of the said pin or stud extended above
plate a', and provided with a block w³, see Figures 2 and 4, rotation of disc j
containing groove 6, the said groove receiving the stud j* of the fixed plate causes
the said disk and framework in which its carrying stud is mounted to slide
longitudinally. The flat or smooth bottom part of the frame a resting on the
elevated smooth ledges of the plate a¹ may be moved forward thereon, or be
vibrated or moved laterally thereon at suitable times about the stud j as a fulcrum;
different parts of the frame work, so vibrated, about the said stud, occupying at

page_text: different times different positions longitudinally with relation to the said stud
according to the part of the groove 6 occupied by the stud jt.
Connected with the casing at of the. inovable frame is a rock shaft 7 having two
arms, The lower arm has a pin or roller stud 13, which is extended through
.the slot in the casing a, and made to enter the cam groove 7 at the underside of
the said cam disc j.
The other arm of the said rock shaft has a pin or stud that enters the
groove at the lower side of the fixed bed plate a¹ and at the rear of the stud j
The cam groove 7 of the rotating disc j having its carrying stud or axis made as
a fixed part of the movable frame at, see Figures 2 and 3,,acts upon the stud 8 of
the arm of the rockshaft and turns the said rock-shaft l, and as the pin
carried by the arm, bears upon or rests against the fixed or immovable bed a', it
results that the rock-shaft must move away laterally from the slot of the fixed
plate a', thus carrying with it the movable frame work a, a³, a³, vibrating the
latter, and all the stitch making parts laterally, more or less, in the arc of a circle
about the fixed stud jt. The extent of the forward and vibratory movements of
the stitching parts depend upon the disc j and the shape of the grooves 6, 7,
therein, they acting to change the position of the movable frame and needle bar to
enable the needles, one side of the button hole having been stitched, to pass about
the rounded end or eye of the button-hole, ready to be again moved horizontally
along and parallel with the opposite side of the button hole next to be stitched.
In other words, the resultant action of the two cam grooves 6, 7, is such as to
cause the axis of the needle bar to travel in a path corresponding in shape with
the straight part and rounded eye of a button-hole, the said path being delineated
in Figure 32.
The material or garment in which the button-hole to be stitched is made is
inserted between the upper and lower members m, m³, of the clamp, which is made
movable so as to expand the button-hole while held by the clamp. The button-
hole is cut by an automatically operated cutter o.
The underparts m, m, of this clamp, serrated as at m², are pivotted at m³ upon
the stationary work supporting or cloth-plate a¹. At or near the rear end of these
jaws are tubular hollow posts m, m³, to receive within them the rods m³, m³, with.
which are connected the upper arms or members m³, m³, of the clamp, the said
arms being serrated at their under sides as in detail, Figure 18.
The lower end of each of these rods m³ is attached to a spring me, see Figures 5
and 9, carried by the arms m³ of a rock-shaft m8 secured to the under-side of the
bed plate in lugs or ears m³. The arms m² are normally pulled upward by a
spring m beneath the bed plate, see Figure 19.
On the casing at are tubular projections a³, a³, to receive through them suitable
screws to attach the said casing to the part d, and leave a space between for the
bed plate a¹ the said screws, or they may be bolts entering holes a¹0, all, in the sill
of the frame a.
At the underside of the bed-plate are two narrow flat surfaces a¹. In the
casing are set two blocks a¹3 made adjustable by suitable screws 14. The said
screws acting upon the said blocks als after the parts a¹ and a are secured together
may be made to press against the surfaces a¹2 with more or less force, and take up
any wear between the sliding frame-work and the bed-plate a¹.
The blade o of the button-hole cutter is carried by a lever o² pivotted at o³ on
the frame a. The long end of the lever o² is curled or turned down, and is by a
spring of (see Figure 2), held down so as to be struck by a cam x (see Figure 2) on
the disc. The bed-plate a¹ has connected with it a cutting block p, having at
each side cam-shaped edges 10 (see Figure 4, that at the first part of the backward
movement of the frame a strike the studs m' hereinbefore described, and separate
them, causing the upper and lower parts m, m³, of the clamp to separate..
Prior to this movement however the cloth or material is supposed to have been
pinched between the upper and lower members of the said clamp by the levers ?>¹
.

page_text: (see Figure 19), the lower end of which is made to act upon and depress the outer
end of one of the arms m² of the rock shaft ms, and the button-hole cutter is
supposed to have been depressed by the cam x, and to have cut the button hole
slit, and to have risen from the cloth. The lever p¹ pivotted in ears p² is extended
through the slot 23 in line with one of the arms m', which arm has its end m¹¹
bevilled or inclined, and is supported or drawn upwardly by the spring ml. The
arms m being connected by the rock shaft m8 and supporting the upper members m¹
of the clamp by means of their pins m³ connected to the springs mo, as before
described, it will follow that the backward movement of the lever p¹ will depress
the arms m and the clamp arms m¹ to hold the button hole material while being
cut, spread, and stitched, but as soon as this lever is released, as at the completion
of a button-hole, the bevelled end m of the spring drawn arms will throw the
lever forward and release the goods. The depression of the clamps by the lever pl
causes sufficient friction between them and the bed-plate to hold them and the
button hole spread apart while the stitching is being done.
The main shaft has upon it a loose band or belt wheel r, see Figures 3, 8, and 33,
having a rigidly attached clutching disc 1 made hollow to receive the half disc 2.5,
and also a piece of india rubber 6, the latter being embraced at its sides by the
lip 12 fast on r is a clutching disc fast on shaft a², and provided with a
When the machine is stitching
spring dog 2 which has a wedge shaped side ³.
the edge or faces of the dog 2 is in engagement with the edge of the half
disc, so that the discs and will rotate together with the shaft a². The
rubber against which the half disc rests yields under the pressure of contact
of parts 2 and 5, so as to take the jar of the starting off the stitching mechanism.
These parts, 72, 74, 75, 76, constitute a clutch, and also a balance wheel by which
to drive the machine.
Upon the frame a is pivotted a stopping device s, which is made as a
rocker-shaft with two arms (see Figures 1, 3, and 9). The arms s¹ of the said
stopping device has a finger s2 to enter a notch 7 at the edge of the disc, and
when the said finger is permitted to enter the said notch it acts upon the bevelled
end 3 of the dog 2 and disengagés said dog from the half disc 25, whereby the
parts r, r, and 5 are free to run loose on the shaft a².
83 is a spring arranged to bear upon the lever s in such manner as to hold down
the toe s of the lever arm s. By this spring this toe is brought into operative
contact, as hereinafter fully specified, with an incline s on an adjustable controlling-
bars, pivotted at 89 upon the bed-plate d¹, and made longitudinally adjustable
thereon by the screw $10, according to the length of the button-hole being
stitched.
This bar is provided at one edge with a rib 13, which is embraced by a notched:
The inner end of this
spring-held pin 14 (see Figure 1) carried by the frame a.
pin 14 extends back far enough to meet the rod e¹ that connects the sectors e, e³,
so that as the said sectors are swung toward the right of the machine the said
controlling bar is swung outward, placing its inclined projection sc in the path of
the said toe s³.
It will be understood that the lever which turns the cam-disc j is always
operative to move the said disc, and consequently the frame a travels when the
clutching parts are disengaged. When the material in which the button hole
slit is to be made has been placed between the members of the clamp, the cutter is
caused to descend and cut the button hole slit and quickly rise. During this
motion the sectors have continued to move, and the needles and loop spreader are
simultaneously turned until the needles are so placed that the needle d¹ will enter
the slit, and the other needle d the fabric, but the said needles are not made.to
descend until the clutched parts are engaged by the withdrawal of the finger s,.as.
before described, and this will not happen until the toe s strikes the incline st.
At the proper time however, or when the needles arrive at the end of the slit,
the toe strikes the incline s and operates the stopping lever to withdraw its
toe 82, and permit the clutching parts to engage and start the needle and looper

page_text: mechanisms. When the toe s5 of the stopping lever s in the forward movement
along the outer side of the button hole again reaches the line of the incline so, the
said toe travels over a part of the controlling-bar 88 at one side of the part
immediately at the rear of and in direct line with the said incline, and comes
opposite a shoulder o which is at the same distance from the pivotted end of the
controlling bar as the said incline 8, and permits the spring 83 to throw the
stopping device into notch 7, and instantly stop the operation of the needle and
looper mechanism.
During all this movement of the frame a when the stitching is to be done, the
toe s runs on an upper level or portion 16 of the said controlling bar. To bring
this shoulder 07 in line with the path of the toe s³, I avail myself of the before
mentioned spring-pin 14, which as the rod et moves away from it is free to
act to draw the controller bar in the same direction, and thus place said shoulder o
in said path of the toe s".
Of the two threads entering into the stitch made by my machine and carried
by the two needles d, d¹, it is necessary in order to locate the purl that the
proper amount of thread be delivered to each needle and that each thread should be
kept at the same tension. To do this I employ for the threads a rotating tension
device about which each thread is wound once, so that the tension device turned by
one thread will positively roll off the other thread for the proper distance. In this
particular form of my Invention I desire the tension device to feed off more
thread for the penetrating-needle than for the over-edge needle, and I bave.con-
sequently so devised that part of the tension device over which the thread carried
by the penetrating-needle moves that it may have its diameter increased as much
beyond the diameter of the other part of the tension-device about which the other
thread of the other needle is wound as may be desired.
This part t of the tension-device over which the thread going to the over-edge
needle is wound is placed upon a rod t' having at its outer end a spring t² and a
nut 3. This part is a disc provided with a V-shaped periphery or groove, and is
not of my Invention. Fixed to this part t is the hub or central part of the flanged
disc t, provided at its edge with a series of equidistant prongs to. About the hub
of this disc t is placed a spring to, and then there is placed on the said hub the fellow
disc t made like the disc t. The prongs of these two discs constitute that part of
the tension-device about which the thread passing to the cloth-penetrating needle
is wound and interlocked, as shown in Figure 28, and kept so by the nut t; and
by moving the said nut, and by the said spring to, these two discs and t may be
made to approach each other, and diminish the effective diameter of the said discs,
or vice-versa, thus regulating, as may be desired, an excess of delivery of one thread
over the other.
In Figures 1 and 3 I have not shown, with particularity the construction of the
thread tension device, considering it unnecessary to do so, because the said tension
device is fully shown in details in Figure 28.
I do not broadly claim a travelling stitching mechanism, nor two needles one to
penetrate the cloth and the other to enter the slit, nor a cutter to cut the button-
hole slit while the material is held in a clamp.
Figure 27 shows a top, an edge, and underside view of the stitch made by my
machine from the two needle threads u, w. The thread u will be carried by the
work penetrating needle d, and the thread by the over-edge needle d'. The
thread covers the edge. being over-stitched, and the thread ; after passing:
through the bight of the thread w above the work, is carried through the work.
and enchained with itself and through the loops of the thread w below the work.
Having now described and particularly set forth the nature of the said Invention,
and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that
what I claim is,-
1st. In a button-hole sewing machine the following instrumentalities, viz., a bed
plate upon which the material is held; a frame work; a reciprocating needle-bar,
its two needles, one to penetrate the fabric, the other to pass over the edge to be

page_text: overstitched, and the loop spreader; a looper carrier and hooked looper, and
means to move said frame work longitudinally upon said bed plate, and to operate
the said spreader and looper carrier and reciprocate the needle-bar, whereby the
spreader lays the loop of one needle thread back upon the material before the
needles descend, and the looper engages the loop of the perforating needle below
the material and draws it through the loop of the over-edge needle, and holds it
while the needles are drawn up above the material, and until after the next descent
of the needle bar, when the loop of the perforating needle is drawn through its
previous loop held, as described, by the said looper, the combination being and
operating substantially as set forth.
2nd. In a button hole sewing machine a cloth holding clamp connected with the
bed plate, the reciprocating needle-bar, its two needles d, d', the looper carrier and
looper, and the movable frame carrying the said needle-bar and looper carrier,
combined with means to partially rotate the said needle-bar and looper carrier,
and to move the said frame and sewing parts longitudinally, substantially as
described.
3rd. In a button hole sewing machine, the frame, the needle bar for the two
needles d, d, and the looper carrier and the pinions connected with the needle-bar
and looper mechanism, combined with the sectors to partially rotate the needle-
bar and looper devices in unison, and with means substantially as described to
reciprocate the needle-bar and vibrate the looper carrier to operate substantially as
set forth.
4th. The movable frame work, reciprocating needle-bar provided with two
needles, looper carrier vibrated from a point coincident with the axis of the needle-
bar, and devices to partially rotate the said needle-bar and loop carrier at the
proper times, combined with a rotating cam disc to reciprocate the frame work
and stitching devices in the direction of the length of the button-hole to be made,
and the rock-shaft mounted, as described, in the movable frame, and adapted to
vibrate the movable frame laterally, as described, and with it the stitching
mechanism above and below the material, whereby the said stitching mechanism
is caused to travel at first along one edge of the slit and then along the other side
of the slit, as herein before set forth.
5th. In a button hole sewing machine a frame work for the needle-bar and
looper, and a bed plate to hold the material, combined with two cams, and with
mechanism between the said cams and frame work, whereby the needle bar, by
the movements imparted to it longitudinally and laterally of a button hole by the
said frame, is caused to travel backward in a substantially straight line until near
the eye of the button hole, then backward and outward and inward, then forward
and inward to follow the contour of the edge of the enlarged eye part of the
button hole, and then forward substantially in a straight line along the other side
of the button hole, as set forth.
6th. The bed-plate and clamp secured to it, the framework, and its overstitching
mechanism composed essentially of a reciprocating needle-bar, having two
needles d, d¹, and the looper-carrier and looper, the stud on the framework,
rigidly connected arms 1, 2, and a rotating disc provided with grooves 6, 7, to act
upon the said stud and arins, and move the framework longitudinally and laterally,
combined with means to partially rotate the said needle-bar, looper carrier, and
looper at the proper time, to enable the needles and looper to be turned at the
eye of the button-hole to stitch about the said eye, all substantially as specified.
7th. A needle-bar and an overstitching needle combined with a penetrating
needle, a spring arm secured to said needle bar, and carrying said penetrating
needle and an adjusting device for moving the spring arm and its needle, to vary
the distance between the needles, to thereby form deeper or narrower stitching
about the button hole, substantially as described.
8th. The needle-bar provided with the shoulder ds and pin 66 means to reciprocate
it, the partial gear connected with the said needle-bar, and means to partially
rotate the said gear and needle-bar, combined with the guide d³ and spreader d³

page_text: connected with the said gear, the combination being and operating substantially as
described.
9th. The looper carrier and looper, the partial gear g' provided with shaft g,
upon which the looper carrier is supported, and the arm g³ having a ball like
termination, combined with the vibrating lever g and sector e, and means to move
the said lever and sector, to enable the looper to be vibrated during the partial
rotation of the said gear, substantially as and for the purpose described.
10th. The looper carrier and its connected lever g combined with the shaft a³,
the disc f, the link f2,.eccentric f³ thereon, the journal ƒ, arm f, pin ƒ 5, and the
link f, substantially as described.
11th. In a button-hole sewing machine, a clamp and bed-plate to hold the
material, the frame work a, and the button-hole cutting device connected therewith,
combined with a cam disc to operate the said button-hole cutter to cut a slit in the
material held by the clamp, and then to move said frame work longitudinally upon
said bed-plate to remove the blade of the cutter from above the clamp, substantially
as described.
12th. The frame work a and bed-plate a', and the cloth clamping mechanism
movably connected with the bed-plate combined with the cutting-bed, and means
for moving the cutting-bed and frame longitudinally with relation to the cloth
clamping mechanism, the said cutting-bed being provided with inclines or
projections to act upon the clamp, and spread the button-hole as the relative
positions of the bed-plate and frame work are changed longitudinally, substantially
as described.
13th. The main shaft a², the belt pulley loose on the said main shaft, the disc or
pulley fixed to said shaft, and means to connect it with or disconnect it from the
loose pulley, the stopping levers and its spring, the movable frame-work which
carries the needle and looper mechanisms, and means to move the said frame work,
in combination with the controlling-bar, whereby the belt pulley is disengaged
from the fixed pulley to enable the shaft a² to remain at rest while the belt
pulley continues to run loosely on the said shaft, substantially as and for the
purposes set forth.
14th. In a sewing machine for stitching button holes the adjustable controlling
bar provided with the incline and shoulder, and elevated part 16, combined with a
stopping lever constructed as described, and acted upon by the controlling bar, and
with the clutch-pulley mechanism, whereby the stitching parts may be driven or
remain at rest, as and for the purposes described.
15th. The pivotted controlling-bar and its ledge 13, and the spring pin and the
spring pin combined with the shaft e* of the sectors to vibrate it at the proper
times, substantially as described.
16th. The needle-bar b', its central thread receiving orifice 62 and guide b³, the
vibrating loop spreader, the two eye-pointed needles carried by the said needle-
bar, the looper to engage and concatenate the two needle threads together below
the material in the formation of the described stitch, and means to operate the
said parts to form a stitch entirely from the two threads carried by the two needles,
combined with the tension device composed of two connected pulleys adapted to
move in unison with each other, one for each of the two threads composing the
button-hole stitch, and with a nut and spring cooperating therewith to control tho
power required to turn the said tension devices together, the movement of the said
connected tension devices delivering each a regulated amount of the two threads
under uniform tension, all substantially as and for the purpose described.
17th. The frame of a sewing machine carrying the operative parts thereof, and
having a longitudinal reciprocating and a periodical lateral oscillating motion
constructed with two arms, one of such arms carrying a reciprocating needle bar
above the cloth-plate and the other arm carrying a looping mechanism below the
cloth plate, substantially as described.
18th. The frame of a sewing machine constructed with two arms, one arm
carrying above the cloth-plate a reciprocating needle-bar having a periodical rotary

page_text: motion, and the other arm carrying the cloth plate a looping mechanism having a
rotary motion in unison with that of the needle-bar, substantially as described.
19th. In a button-hole sewing machine the combination with stitching mechanism
of a starting and stopping device to automatically start and stop the operation of
the stitch forming mechanism, the mechanism that controls the length of the stitch
being unaffected thereby, substantially as described.
20th. In a button-hole sewing machine a main shaft, a belt wheel, and its
eccentric or cam adapted to be disconnected from said shaft, combined with
connecting means to operate the cutter, and bring the needles to the starting point,
and adapted to be periodically connected with the main shaft to impart rotary
motion to it to operate the stitch forming mechanism, substantially as described.
·
In witness whereof, I, the said William Morgan-Brown, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty seventh day of October, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.