IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF OILSKIN GARMENTS
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to David Johnson, of Old Ford, in the County of Middle-
sex, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF OILSKIN
GARMENTS."
Sealed the 25th October 1878, and dated the 7th May 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said David Johnson at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 7th May 1878.
DAVID JOHNSON, of Old Ford, in the County of Middlesex.
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF OILSKIN GARMENTS.”
"IMPROVEMENTS
My Invention relates to an improved manufacture of oilskin coats and leggings
for the use of seamen and others. These garments as now made soon become useless
in consequence of the softening of the oil dressing with which they are coated,
especially in warm climates, as, owing to the stickiness of the dressing, the garment
is very liable to adhere together when folded, and is also difficult to put off and on,
in consequence of the dressing penetrating to the inside of the fabric. Moreover
the oilskin fabric is very subject to wear, which impairs its waterproof qualities.
The above objections are entirely obviated by the improved method of manufac-
ture of my Invention, which I will now proceed to describe.
The material to form the coat or leggings, as the case may be, is first cut out in
unbleached calico, together with another thickness of material, which may be of
any suitable kind or color, to form the outside of the garment, the two fabrics being
then made up or sewn together in the ordinary way. The coat thus made is then
folded, so as to bring the inside face of the garment to the outside, and the edges
and sleeve openings are stitched together all round, so as to prevent damage to the
outside covering fabric during the dressing of the inuer fabric with oil, which is
applied by means of a brush in the usual way. As many coats of oil are applied
as necessary to make the garment thoroughly waterproof, and, when dry, a suitable
lining is put in and the garment is finished in the ordinary way.
The advantage of this mode of manufacture is that the dressed fabric is protected
from wear by the inner and outer thicknesses of material, and is also effectually

page_text: prevented from adhering together when folded, thus rendering the garment at all
times fit for use when required.
Another advantage is that with this mode of making, a dressing may be used
composed of linseed oil and india-rubber, boiled together, which greatly improves
the waterproof qualities of the oilskin; this dressing having been hitherto inapplicable
to ordinary oilskins on account of its softness.
Lastly, oilskin coats made in the above manner may be ventilated by cutting or
working small holes in the oilskin and protecting each hole with a small flap stitched
at the top and sides, but left open at bottom for the admission of air which passes
through the outside covering of the coat and through the holes in the oilskin, which
are entirely hidden by the said covering, and do not therefore render the garment
unsightly in appearance as would otherwise be the case.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said David Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 7th November
1878.
DAVID JOHNSON, of Old Ford, in the County of Middlesex.
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF OILSKIN GARMENTS."
"IMPROVEMENTS
My Invention relates to an improved manufacture of oilskin garments, such as
coats and leggings for the use of seamen and others. These garments as now made
soon become useless, in consequence of the softening of the oil dressing with which
they are coated, especially in warm climates. Owing to the stickiness of the dressing
the different parts of the garment are very liable to adhere together when folded,
and it is difficult to put on and off in consequence of the dressing which is
usually applied to the outer surface penetrating to the inside of the fabric.
Moreover, the oilskin fabric, when exposed to wear, soon loses its waterproof
qualities.
The above objections are entirely obviated by the improved method of manufac-
ture of my Invention, by which I am enabled to use an improved composition,
possessing excellent waterproof qualities, but which could not be used in the ordinary
way on account of its soft and adhesive character.
I am also enabled, on the one hand, to make a garment having the appearance of
an ordinary non-waterproof garment, which has never yet been done in oil dressed
goods, and, on the other hand, I avoid the disadvantage of joining the seams with
india-rubber solution as now practised with india-rubber goods, which are liable to
fall to pieces in hot weather.
The garment, manufactured in accordance with my Invention, is made of three
separate thicknesses of material, the oilskin being placed between an inner and an
outer fabric of any suitable kind, such as alpaca, for instance, which I prefer should
have been previously proofed with a tailor's proofing in the ordinary way, in order
to stop the wet travelling from the outside to the inside through the button holes
and up the cuffs of the sleeves.

page_text: The mode of manufacture is as follows:-I take unbleached calico or preferably
calico which has previously received one coat of the oil dressing, and also the outer
fabric or material and cut them out together into the required pieces to form the
garment, which is then made up of these two materials by sewing in the ordinary
way, the two materials being united at the scams only. The garment, a cont for
example, is then turned inside out, folded down the middle, and the opposite edges
temporarily stitched together all round the coat, and the cuffs being likewise stitched
up, so as to leave no part of the outer fabric exposed, in order to prevent injury
to it when dressing is applied to the calico, which is done by means of a brush in
the usual way.
As many coats of dressing are applied as may be necessary to make the calico
and the seams thoroughly waterproof, and, when dry, the stitched edges are separated
and the lining is put in and sewn to the other two fabrics at the edges or elsewhere,
as required, and the garment is finished in the ordinary way. The dressed fabric
or oilskin is thus protected from wear, and the different parts of the garment are
effectually provented by the inner and outer fabrics from adhering together when
folded up, thus rendering the garment at all times fit for immediate uso when
required. By merely removing the lining the oilskin may be again dressed when-
ever it may be required.
The dressing I prefer to use consists of a small portion of india-rubber added to
linseed oil, and the two boiled together, the proportion being half an ounce to the
gallon. The addition of india-rubber greatly improves and renders more enduring
the waterproof qualities of the oilskin, but this dressing could not be used for
ordinary oilskin garments (i.e., garments in which the oilskin is not protected by
other fabrics) on account of its adhesiveness and softness.
Lastly, oilskin garments made in the above manner may be ventilated to any
extent desired by cutting out small holes in the oilskin only, and protecting each with
a small flap of the same material applied on the outside surface of the oilskin to
prevent the entrance of water, and stitched thereto at its top and sides, but left
loose at its bottom edge for the passage of the air. These flaps are entirely covered
and concealed by the outer fabric, which, as well as the inner lining, is of a
sufficiently porous texture to allow the air to pass through it without any holes
being made in it. By this means the garment is not rendered unsightly in appear-
ance as would otherwise be the case.
Having described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of performing the
same, I declare that what I claim as my Invention to be protected by the herein-
before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
1st. The manufacture of oilskin garments of three thicknesses of material,
viz., a middle thickness of oilskin and an inner and an outer protective fabric, as
herein described.
Second. An oilskin garment manufactured as above specified and ventilated by
holes in the middle waterproof fabric, protected by flaps and concealed by the outer
fabric, as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said David Johnson, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Sixth day of November, in the year of our Lord One thousand