IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS ANDSHOES, PART OF WHICH SAID IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO THE MANUFACTURE
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, AUGUSTE
EDOUARD LORADOUX BELLFORD, of 16, Castle Street, Holborn, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Thirtieth day of Sep-
tember, in the sixteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto me, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux
Bellford, Her especial license, solo privilege and authority, that I, the
said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, my exors; admors, and assigns,
and such others as I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, my
exors, adñiors, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and, no others,
from time to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, within the Islands of Jersey,
Guernsey, Alderney, Sark, and Man, and also within all Her Majesty's Colonies
and Plantations abroad, an Invention communicated to me by a Foreigner
residing abroad, for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES,
PART OF WHICH SAID IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO THE MANUFACTURE

page_text: OF VARIOUS OTHER ARTICLES OF DRESS;" in which said Letters Patent there is
contained a proviso obliging me, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford,
by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, and to cause the same to be enrolled in Her Majesty's'
High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same,
reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, do hereby declare that the nature of
the said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be, performed,
are described and ascertained by the Drawings hereunto annexed, and forming
part hereof; and the words following, that is to say:―
The first part of this Invention consists in a certain method of cutting out"
or otherwise shaping the leather or other material of which a boot is to be
Imade, whereby the front or back or entire upper part can be made of one
piece, and folded or bent into the proper form for the boot, without what is
usually termed "crimping," or without stretching any part. By this improve-
ment the amount of labour expended in making a boot is considerably reduced,
crimping forming no inconsiderable part of thework. Considerable saving is also
effected in the amount of stock used. In addition to this, the boot produced
is superior in every respect, as it is neater in appearance, and no part is unduly
strained; as, when crimped. Another advantage, is, that a boot reaching any
distance up the leg, or the entire front and part of, the back of the same, may
be made from one piece of patent or enamelled leather, cloth, or any material
which will not stretch or bear, to be stretched to any extent, and hence not
bear crimping.
The second part consists. in a certain composition of ingredients forming a
,waterproof adhesive cement, to be used either, alone or in conjunction with
rivets or other fastenings, for holding together the edges and forming the seams
in boots and shoes, and for securing together the soles and upper parts of the
same; the said cement being also applicable for forming seams in garments,
and for uniting together any pieces of cloth, leather, or other material, and also
for, making joints in many, articles for various purposes.
The third part consists in certain, improved rivets or fastenings, to be used
with or without cement or adhesive material, and holding together and securing
the two parts or edges forming the seams of boots or shoes and the parts
forming the soles, and also in holding together the seams or other parts of

page_text: any articles made of leather, cloth, or other materials, as for instance hose pipe,
machine belting, buckets and other vessels, garments, and articles of furniture.
I will now proceed to describe the practical application of the above
improvements. Fig. 1 of the Drawings is a side view of a man's leather boot
5 constructed according to the first part of the Invention. Fig. 2 shows the
opposite side of the same. Fig. 3 is a side view of a cloth boot intended for a
lady. Fig. 4 shows the shape of the piece from which the entire upper parts
of the boots shown in Figs. 1 and 2 are made. Fig. 5 shows the same partly
folded into the form of a boot: Fig. 6 shows the form of a piece which forms
the front and part of the back of a shorter boot. Fig. 7 shows the same
folded. Figs 8, 9, 10, and 11, show the application of one of the improved
fastenings to. seams of boots and other articles requiring a similar seam.
Fig 12 shows the manner of uniting by the said fastenings two stout pieces of
leather such as would serve for a sole or a heavy machine. Figs. 13, 14, and 15,
show the other fastening. Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding
parts wherever they are employed in the several Figures. The pieces shown
in Fig. 1, which makes the entire upper part of a boot, will make one for
either foot; but as one side of the boot made in this way presents a somewhat
neater appearance than the other, the neatest looking side, or that shown in
Fig. 2, is brought to the outside of the foot. This requires the pieces for the
two boots.to be the reverse of each other in form, that is to say, the inside of
one piece must correspond in form with the outside of the other, and vice
versa. The view of the piece exhibits the inside. Its shape is such that the
part A, included between the lines a b, bc, and d c, will form one entire side
of the boot; the part B, between the line a, b, and the edge f, form the other,
side of the leg and heel. The part C, divided off by the line d, e, and the
cut g, forms the other side of the foot, and leaves a piece to go round the heel
to the first-named side, and the piece D, between the line c, d, and the edge i;
forms a lap for the front seams.. To form the boot the piece is cut in the
line a, b, from the point a; about as far as p; it is then folded in the line a, b,
to lay the part B on A, the edge f being brought even with the line c, d; the
lap D is then folded over the edge f, and the part C is folded from the line d, e,
and laid over the lower parts of A and B. The piece in the state now
described is exhibited in Fig. 5, where the lower edge of B is shown by a
dotted line, supposed to be seen through C. The part h is then turned round
the heel, and the cut b, p, is opened on the sides, separated sufficiently to
allow the heel to have a graceful upward curve. The boot is now ready for
closing, either by stitching, cementing, riveting, or by any other means of

page_text: fastening. It will be observed, by referring to the Drawings, that the back
part of the heel of the boot, or the part covered by h, is double, being
purposely made so to give the necessary stiffness, to the heel; thus the same
piece of leather makes not only the entire upper but also the heel stiffening.
The angle formed by the lines c, d, and d, e, will have to be altered to suit the
height of the instep of the wearer, and will also depend in a measure on the
height of the heel of the boot. This can be properly varied by any expert
bootmaker. The size in other respects will be varied according to the size of
the foot, in the same manner as a boot cut on the old plan. In order to
show that in making boots by this method it is not absolutely necessary to
make them all in one piece, although it is considered preferable to do so, the
figure of the piece shown in Fig. 6 forms part of that shown in Fig. 4, and is
folded in the same way in the lines a b, c d, and de, but the heel is intended
to be formed of a separate piece. The cloth boot shown in Fig. 3 is cut out
in the form of Fig. 4, but the lapping piece D is only continued upwards from
the point to the dotted line j, shown in the latter Figure, the upper part of
the front seam being made in the centre of the front of the boot. The seam
is covered by a strip of binding k, l, and, in order to give an uniform appear-
ance to both sides of the boot a similar strip k, l, is stitched on the opposite
side of the boot.
The waterproof cement which forms the second part of this Invention is
composed of gutta percha, india rubber, pitch, shellac, and oil, or oleaginous or
fatty matter, in about the following proportions by weight:-Sixty-four per cent.
of gutta percha, sixteen per cent. india rubber, eight per cent. pitch, four per
cent. shellac, eight per cent. oil, or fatty or oleaginous matter.
It is prepared
in the following manner:-The india rubber is first reduced to a solution by
spirits of turpentine or any other solvent, and the several ingredients are
introduced into a suitable boiler and kept at almost boiling temperature for
about three days, whereby they become thoroughly mixed together. At the
end of that time the preparation is ready for immediate use, or it may be
allowed to cool and solidify and be re-melted for use at convenience. When
used it must he perfectly melted, and the surfaces to which it is to be applied
must also be heated, in order to make it adhere. Care must also be taken
that all air is pressed out from between the surfaces. The boot or shoe or
other article in whose manufacture it is used must then be submitted to a
sufficient heat to keep the composition melted for a short time, so as to ensure
its entering into the pores of the material of which the article is formed.
When used for boots and shoes the seams of their upper parts should have

page_text: .
.
the edges overlapping one another a considerable width. The soles are
applied in the following manner:-The inner sole is laid on the last, and the
edges of the upper turned over it and cemented upon it. The outer sole is
then applied, and cemented all over its inner surface to the inner sole and to
the edges of the upper part, which are turned over the inner sole. The
cement will be sufficiently adhesive in almost every case to hold all the parts
of the boot or shoe together, without any other kind of fastening, and will
make it perfectly water-tight, but rivets and other fastenings may be used at
different points where there is a great strain, to give, additional security.
When used for seams in other articles, the cement is applied in the same
manner as to the seams of boots. It may be used for cementing sheets of
leather together, by applying it all over their surfaces. In making hose pipe
it will be particularly serviceable, as a number of waste pieces of leather
may be spread all over with it, and rolled up together into a tube of the
required size, rivets being also employed for additional security if thought
desirable.
The rivets or fastenings which constitute the third part of this Invention
are of two kinds, which are not widely different from each other. The first is
most applicable to the seams in the uppers of a boot or shoe, and for joining
thin pieces of leather and other material. The second is most applicable for
securing the parts together, forming the sole of a boot or shoe, more
particularly in the shank, and for joining stouter material. Notwithstanding
this, each can be employed in all cases where the other is applicable. The
first-named fastening consists of the ordinary metal eyelet-hole lining, or a
tube or flanch of similar form, whose interior or hollow part, after it is rivetted
or burred, is filled with solder or any easily fusible metallic alloy.
Fig. 8 exhibits the hollow rivet m in perspective before it is inserted.
Fig. 9 shows in section the edges of two pieces of leather, secured together
by the rivet, the ends being turned over, but the hollow part not yet being
filled up.
Fig. 10 shows the same filled up. In order to make a neat seam the
edges of the leather are skived off. A hole is first punched of the proper size,
then the rivet is inserted and rivetted at one blow. The rivet should be
tinned, in order to enable the solder to adhere readily; a piece of solder n is
placed in the hollow of the rivet and a heated soldering iron applied to melt
it. The solder, by its affinity for the tin, adheres firmly to every portion of
the inside of the rivet, and entirely fills it, so as to make it like a solid rivet.
In rivetting very stout leather, the edge of one piece is split, as shown in

page_text: Fig. 12, and that of the other skived down to fit between, and then rivetted,
as. before described. The rivets may be filed off smooth and flush with the
surface of the leather.
:
The other fastening, exhibited in Figs. 13, 14, & 15, consists of a small
tube and flanch, and a small pin or screw passing through. it, the tube
being either plain and fitted so as to pass through, or furnished with a small
screw, which screws through the leather or material if v is simply a pin or
the inside of the tube q is plain, and if it is a screw, the tube has a female
screw inside to fit it.
Fig. 13 shows the tube and pin plain, and Fig. 14 both screwed, the tube
being supposed to be screwed inside as well as out. When the tube. and
pin are plain the tube is passed through a suitable hole in the pieces
of leather or material, and the pin inserted through from the opposite
side; it is then rivetted or soldered, that end of the tube in which the
point or end of the pin terminates being countersunk, to allow the rivet to
fill up or to receive the solder. When the tube 9 has a screw outside
it is screwed tightly through the leather or material, and the pin may be
rivetted or soldered in it as above described, or may be screwed 'in.
former case the tube requires no screw inside, but in the latter case the screw
is of course necessary. It may be rivetted as well as screwed, or a piece of
solder may be melted upon or around its point to prevent the screw turning
back or working out.
In the
Fig. 15 is a section of the fastening, showing it applied in securing two
pieces of leather. In this view the tube and pin may be supposed either
plain or screwed. In this fastening, as well as in that first described, the
length of the tube depends upon the thickness of the pieces of leather or
material to be united. The superiority of these fastenings consists in the
facility with which they are applied, their security, or the absence of liability
to become unfastened, and also in their extreme water-tightness. By using
the three features of this Invention combined, coarse boots may be made of
heavy hide much stronger than when sewed, and perfectly water-tight, and
at the same time as smooth inside and as pleasant to wear as the finest boots.
All boots cemented together can be made smoother inside than when sewed,
and hence may be made smaller or tighter without hurting the feet.
In witness whereof, I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, the Thirtieth day of March, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
A. E. LORADOUX (L.S.) BELLFORD.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Thirtieth day of March, in the
year of our Lord 1853, the aforesaid Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford
came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged
the Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and
specified, in form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was
stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Thirtieth day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.