Improvements in and connected with Embroidering-machines.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Nov., 1894-Accepted, 19th Jan., 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and connected with Embroidering-machines.
I, PAUL SCHIERSAND, of Kappel near Chemnitz, in the Kingdom of Saxony,
German Empire, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention refers to embroidering-machines, in which the needles co-operate
either with a shuttle or with a catcher; my improvements in embroidering-
machines of this kind relate to making them able to produce loop-stitches, as
requisite for the manufacture of arched ornament-seams. My said improvements
relate to the construction of the machine itself, as well as to a special method of
operation, as will all be more fully described hereinafter.
Concerning, first, the method of operation, I refer to Figures 1-74 of Sheet 1 of
the drawings, in which a is the needle that moves forwards and backwards in its
longitudinal direction; b (Figs. 4 & 4B) is a shuttle, that moves to and fro in a
direction rectangular to that of the needle. care two loop-forming hooks, that
may move vertically as well as horizontally (in a plane parallel to that of the
shuttle); when the said hooks are moving vertically up and down, their direction is
the same; when they are moving horizontally to and fro, the direction of one is
contrary to that of the other.
C
The fabric to be furnished with the bow-languettes is stretched in a vertical
plane between the loop-forming hooks cc' and the shuttle b; the fabric is indicated
by the letter d in Figs. 1B, 3A, 4B, 5B, 6 and 7. This fabric is displaced upwards
and downwards, as well as sidewards, in that the frame holding the fabric is acted
on by the well-known pantograph in the well-known manner. The displacements
of the fabric are effected in such a way, that the stitching-holes produced by each
of the needles form two parallel curves, or two concentric segments of a circle
respectively, as indicated by the two arcs e el in Fig. 8. The said parts a b
and c c co-operate with each other as well as with the fabric d in a manner as
follows:-
After the needle a has made the last (lefthand) stitch (e², Fig. 1) in the outer
arc (e, Fig. 8), and the thread f (Figs. 1^ & 1B) has been drawn tight by the back-
going needle, and further, the fabric has been displaced by means of the pantograph
(not shown), then the two loop-forming hooks cc' are moved first downwards
(compare Fig. 2), and are thereafter moved against, and over each other (compare
Figs. 3 & 3), so that hook c lies righthand of hook c', and hook c¹, as a matter of
course, lefthand of hook c. In consequence of this movement, the free portion f
(Fig. 3A) of the thread is caught between the two hooks, and the loop to be formed
is now in its first phase, as indicated at f' in Fig. 3.
Whilst in this position, the hooks are moved upwards again so as to free the way
for the needle, and the latter now makes another stitch, this time, however, in the
inner arc (e, Fig. 8). Instantly thereafter, the shuttle (Figs. 44 and 4) is
passed through between the needle and the portion of the thread; the needle is
then drawn backwards again (Figs. 5 & 5B), and the fabric is displaced in such a
way, that loop f' held by the hooks c c is widened, and the needle on its next
forward movement may pass through that loop (compare Fig. 6), making now a
fresh stitch in the outer arc (e, Fig. 8). After the point of the needle has pierced
the fabric, loop f' is let loose by the hooks; and after the thread carried by means
of the needle through the fabric is connected with the shuttle-thread by the passing

page_text: through of the shuttle, the needle is drawn backwards, and the loop-forming
hooks c care moved upward as well as sidewards into their initial position
(compare Fig. 7). Finally, the fabric is again displaced, so that the position of
all the parts is again the same, as shown in Fig. 1.
If the method is carried out in the manner afore described, that is to say, if the
Hoop (Fig. 6) is freed from the hooks before the thread (3, Figs. 6A & 6B) is
drawn tight, then the finished loops will be tight ones, or with other words, the
loops will be of an angular or cornered configuration. If, however, each single
loop is to form a curve (as is the case with the loops shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
& 7), then the threads ought to be drawn tight before the loop is freed by the
books.
An embroidering-machine adapted to work according to my improved method is
shown in Figs. 9-12. Referring, first, to the two detail-figures 11 & 12 c c', are the
loop-forming-hooks (compare Figs. 1-7) which are to move vertically up or down
in the same direction, and horizontally to and fro in opposite directions. In order to
make this possible, the following arrangement has been devised.
The hooks c are secured to a rectangular frame g extending in vertical position
across the whole machine. Laths gl provided with slots g2, and having the hooks e
secured to them, are carried by the horizontal parts of said frame by means of
bolts g screwed into said horizontal parts. Frame g is guided by slotted brackets h
(Figs. 9 & 10) fixed to the standards i of the machine; the guide-pins taking into
said slots are of such a length, that frame 9 may be displaced also sideways without
coming out of gear with said brackets.
Double-armed levers (Fig. 9) held by brackets are connected with the
horizontal parts of frame g by means of the connecting-rods m, and with the
laths gl by means of the connecting-rods m'. If, therefore, frame 9 is displaced to
one side, the laths g¹ will be automatically displaced to the other side, and the
hooks c c will thus be caused either to approach as well as pass each other, or to
withdraw from each other (compare Figs. 1, 3 & 7).
с
Bearings n (Fig. 9) secured to the cross-beams i¹ (Fig. 10) of the frame of the
machine support three-aimed levers o o¹ 02 (one only is shown in Fig. 9, as the
lefthand portion of the machine is left away), arm o³ of which is connected by a
rod p with the frame g. The latter is constantly drawn upwards by means of a
weight attached to arm o of said lever. Arm o' of the latter is connected by
a horizontal rod with the corresponding arm of the lever on the other side of the
machine (not shown), so that the oscillations of the two levers are always exactly
the same.
A vertical rod s guided by a bracket t secured to standard i is at its upper end
hinged to lever-arm o, and is acted on at its lower end by a cam u driven by suitable
gearing from shaft v. If, therefore, rods is raised by said cam, the frame g
together with the laths g', will be lowered; if however, rod s is lowered by means
of the weight 9, the frame y together with the laths gl will be raised. The loop-
forming hooks care thus lowered and raised, too (compare Figs. 1 & 3).
The righthand vertical part of frame g is connected by a rod w with a double-
armed lever a ¹ held by a bracket y, and acted on by two co-operating cams = 2¹
fixed to the shaft of cam u. It will be clear without further explanation, that
frame is thus caused to move horizontally to and fro. The same occurs with the
laths; the direction of motion, however, is always opposite to that of frame g, as
has above been fully explained. The various movements are timed so as to
cause the loop-forming hooks to perform the actions described with regard to
Figs. 1-7.
The other parts of the machine are known, and need therefore not be described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion, and in what manuer the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The method of producing loop-stitches for arched ornament-seams in

page_text: embroidering-machines working with a shuttle or catcher, consisting in letting each
needle co-operate with two loop-forming hooks adapted to be moved vertically up
or down in the same direction, and horizontally to and fro in opposite direction, for
the purpose as described.
2. In an embroidering-machine working with a shuttle or catcher, the combination
with a horizontal bar carrying hooks pointing all in one direction, of another
horizontal bar carrying similar hooks pointing all in the other direction, said two
bars being coupled so as to be able to move vertically up or down in the same
direction, and horizontally to and fro in opposite direction, for the purpose as
described.
3. In an embroidering-machine working with a shuttle or catcher, the combination
with a horizontal bar carrying hooks pointing all in one direction, of another
horizontal bar carrying similar hooks pointing all in the other direction, each of
said two bars being connected with a separate arm of a double-armed lever so as to
cause one bar to be horizontally displaced by the other bar in a direction opposite
to that of the latter, said bars being adapted to be moved vertically up or down in
the same direction, for the purpose as described.
Dated this 27th day of November 1894.
PAUL SCHIERSAND,
By Geo. H. Rayner,
37, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.