Holes and to Machines therefor.
Year: 1888

page_text: [Communicated from abroad by JOHN ELIAKIM WHEELER, of Lynn, Massachusetts,
United States of America, Gentleman.]
Holes and to Machines therefor.
I HENRY HARRIS LAKE of the firm of Haseltine Lake & Co. Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:―
The invention relates partly to the method of stitching and barring button holes,
consisting in stitching one side, the eye and the other side of the button-hole by two
needles and appropriate looping mechanism, which needles are reciprocated one from
below the work-plate through the button hole slit, and one from above the work-plate
through the material, and in then forming a bar by moving one needle laterally into
a new position in relation to the other needle, and continuing their operation without
interrupting their movements or the movements of the looping devices. Also to the
method of stitching and barring button-holes, comprising the employment of looping
devices having a uniform extent of movement throughout the stitching of the sides
and barring of the button-holes, and of two needles adapted to have two operative
positions, one for stitching the eye and sides of the button-hole and the other for
stitching the bar of the button-hole, obtained by moving one needle away from the
other to increase the distance or space between them. Also to the method which
includes with the above the stopping automatically of the feed of the clamp plate at
the end of the stitching of the last side of the button-hole and immediately before the
barring begins.
The invention also relates to a button-hole stitching and barring machine having
two needles, one of which is supported above the work plate and arranged to be
continuously reciprocated in a straight line, or in the same path during its entire
operation in stitching both the sides and eye and the bar, and the other of which is
supported below the work plate, and is adapted to be reciprocated upon a straight
path or given line during the sewing or stitching of the sides and eye of the button-

page_text: hole, and during the stitching of the bar upon a path or line parallel to that upon
which it moves during the stitching of the sides and eye, and further removed from
the path or line of reciprocation of the upper needle. The invention further comprises
the combination in a button-hole stitching and barring machine of two needles, one
arranged above the work plate and the other below it, and to means for reciprocating
or moving them at a uniform distance apart during the stitching of the sides and eye
of the button-hole, and for transferring or moving one needle in relation to the
other automatically at the completion of the stitching of the second side of the
button-hole, so as to increase the distance or space between the two needles, and
without interrupting their reciprocation, so that the stitching of the bar continues
after the end of the stitching of the last side, automatically and without stopping the
machine or reducing its speed. It further relates to the combination in connection
with needles having these movements of a work plate having an intermittent feed
movement imparted to it during the stitching of the sides and eye of the button-
hole. It further relates to the combination with needles having the movements
specified of the work plate and a thread carrier or looping device above the work-plate,
and a thread carrier or looping device or mechanism below. It further relates to the
combination of needles having these movements with the movable work plate, and
mechanism placed to be actuated by the work plate at the end of the stitching of the
last side of the button hole, to cause a change in the position of one needle in relation
to the other, whereby the distance between the needles is increased. It further relates
to various features of construction and organization which will hereinafter appear.
The machine as illustrated is organized so that the lower needle is, during the
stitching of the sides and eye, caused to be reciprocated through the button-hole slit
or hole if the button-hole has been previously cut, and the upper needle is caused to
penetrate the material parallel with the side of the button-hole or slit, and the upper
thread is fed by the upper needle through the material to a position to be seized by the
under or lower looping devices, which form a loop through which the lower needle
carrying the lower thread passes and the lower needle carries the thread upward
through the button-hole slit to a position above the material, and the upper looping
mechanism then transfers the lower thread and forms a loop through which the upper
needle with the upper thread is then caused to be moved.
The clamp plate is of the ordinary form of construction and is moved or fed by
mechanism substantially like that that described in various patents already granted me.
In the accompanying drawings
Figure 1 is a view part in front elevation and part in vertical section, illustrating a
machine containing the features of my invention.
Figure 2 is a plan view thereof inverted.
Figure 3 is a view in end elevation.
Figures 4, 5, 6 and 7 are detail views illustrating a part of the mechanism for
operating the upper looper.
Figure 8 is a view part in cross vertical section and part in elevation to further
illustrate the construction and operation of the same.
Figures 9 and 10 are views to further illustrate the construction and organization of
the devices for operating the upper looper.
Figure 11 is a plan view below the work plate of the machine.
Figure 12 is a plan view of the mechanism for automatically moving the lower
needle to its barring position.
Figure 13 is a view in section and elevation to represent the relation which the
needles and looping devices bear to each other while stitching the sides and eye of the
button hole.
Figure 14 is a view in plan inverted showing the lower looping devices.
Figure 15 illustrates the position which the needles and looping devices bear to
each other during the sewing of the bar.
Figure 16 is a plan view, inverted, of the lower looping devices, to show that the
extent of their movement is not modified or changed during the sewing of the barring
stitch.

page_text: Figure 17 is a plan view enlarged of a complete button-hole.
Figures 18, 19 and 20 are views illustrating various positions of the needles and
upper looper in relation to each other, hereinafter referred to.
Figure 21 is a view in perspective to illustrate the relation of the two needles to
each other during the stitching of the sides and eye and the mechanism whereby the
lower needle is adapted to be moved automatically at the end of the stitching of the last
side of the button hole.
Figure 22 is a perspective view of the same parts representing the lower needle as
moved out into its barring position, and the relation which the parts then bear to each
other.
A is the upper needle, it has the eye a, and is carried by the needle bar a', which is
reciprocated by means of a cam groove a² in the cam dise a³ at the front end of the
main shaft a*, the needle bar having a cam pin which enters the cam groove. The
needle is moved upon a straight vertical path. B is the lower needle. It is represented
as straight and having the eye b at its point. It is supported by the needle bar b²,
which is in the form of a slide, held by a block 62, which is made movable to transfer
the lower needle at the end of the stitching of the last side of the button-hole to locate
the needle so that it may be reciprocated or moved at a greater distance from the path
of the upper needle than that in which it is reciprocated or moved during the stitching
of the sides and eye. The manner of moving this block will be hereinafter specified.
The needle bar is reciprocated or moved by means of the bent lover 6³, cam
groove in the cam disc 6, on the vertical shaft 6, the slide bar 6 which has a cam
pin at one end arranged to enter the cam groove 6 and the link be, which connects
the slide with one arm of the rock lever. Both the cam 6 and the cam a³, are timed
to give the needles the desired movements in relation to each other and such periods
of rest as may be required for properly operating the thread-carrying and looping
devices. C is the bed of the machine, c is the bed plate, c¹ the clamp plate the
work spreading clamping jaws carried by the clamp plate c³ is the button which forms
the throat of the machine, and which has a guide-way or recess which receives the
inner edge of the clamp plate about its central hole. The clamp plate has a spring
pin c, which engages the worm wheels c, c, and intermediate feeding fingers c
This spring pin travels in the guide slot es in the bed plate. The worm wheels ce
are connected by means of the bevel gear c which carries the feed fingers c² and the
worin wheel c has a ratchet wheel clo, and motion is communicated to it, and therefore
to the worm wheels by means of the pawl cl which is rotated by the crank c
on the lower end of the shaft 6 and the connecting rod c. The crank pin c¹s is
carried by a slide block c¹ movable radially in a groove c in the crank disc c¹³ so
that the length or extent of movement of the feed pawl may be varied by changing
the position of the crank pin in relation to the centre of the shaft 6. As the button-
hole is presented to the sewing mechanism the stitch is arranged to begin at the end
of one side to follow along that side to the eye, and about the eye along the other side
to the end of that side, and the barring then takes place.
During the stitching of the sides and eye the clamp plate has an intermittent
feeding movement. At the end of the stitching of the last side this movement is
entirely stopped, or if continued, is reduced considerably in extent. This stopping or
changing of the feed is provided by means of a racket covering plate D which
is moved into position over the teeth of the ratchet wheel to be interposed between
the pawl and the teeth, so that the feed pawl instead of engaging the teeth ride on this
covering plate and if the covering plate is arranged so as to expose a section of the
ratchet within the limit of the movement of the pawl, then the feed movement will not
cease entirely but will be limited or reduced in extent. The movement of this
covering plate over the ratchet wheel, or between the feed pawl and the ratchet
wheel, is produced or caused by the contact of the edge of the clamp plate c¹ with a
slide block E, arranged to project through the guide slot c and to slide therein and its
clamp pin enters the slot e in the slide plate e¹ to which it is fastened by the nut .
The slide plate e' is secured to the under side of the bed of the machine so as to slide
or be movable, and carries an armes which holds the ratchet wheel covering plate D.

page_text: :
This movable plate is also utilized to cause the block 6 carrying the lower needle
bar to be automatically moved at the end of the stitching of the last side of the
button-hole and this result is obtained by causing the block 62 to be held in one
position by a latch or lock which is adapted to be moved by the slide plate to permit a
spring to throw the said block b sufficiently to change the position of the needle-bar
and needle. I have therefore shown the block 62 as carried at the end of a horizontal
arm F which is pivotted at its end f by the pivot or stud f¹ (see Figures 21 and 22)
to the under side of the bed of the machine and there is arranged to act upon this
arm to move it in one direction namely, in a direction to move the lower needle away
from the upper needle, a spring f2 which is represented as a coiled spring surrounding
the stud one end of which is fastened to the stud and the other end of which is
fastened to the arm.
The extent of movement of the end of the arni F and therefore of the needle B is
adjusted or varied by providing the arm F with a slot or enlarged hole f³ which
receives the stationary headed stud f* (see Figure 2) and by means of the adjusting
screws, which are arranged to screw through the sides of the arm into the
hole the ends of which act as stops in connection with the stud in limiting the
extent of the movement of the arm.
The latching or locking device for holding the arın F in a fixed position during the
stitching of the sides and eye, and for releasing it to permit the spring to move
it laterally to increase the distance between the two needles at the end of the sewing
of the last side, comprises the two sections or parts G G¹, upon an arm g, extending
horizontally from the arm F, and the sections or parts G G3 which are carried by
the arm e³ of the slide plate e¹. The section or part G is a wedge lock the section or
part G is a holding block, which when the parts are in position for stitching the sides
and eye of the button-hole rests against the section or part G³ (see Figure 21) and
maintains the arm F in a fixed or stationary position until the slide plate e¹ is moved
by the contact of the clamp plate with the stud or pin E, when the arm e³ is moved
sufficiently to move the section or block G³ past or beyond the holding block G¹
which with the arm F is then moved by the spring until it comes in contact with
the edge of the arm e³. (see Figure 22). This results in changing the position of the
needle block 62 and the block is held in this position fixed or stationary by the spring f
during the stitching of the bar.
Upon the removal of the clamp plate to its original position it is desirable to
automatically return the lower needle and its bar 62 to their original position, or to a
position for stitching the sides and eye of the next button-hole, and this is accom-
plished by causing the slide plate e¹ and its arın e³ to be automatically returned to
their original position upon the release of the pin E by the removal of the clamp
plate. This movement of the plate and arm is produced by the springs g¹, g² (see
Figure 12) and this causes the section or part 2 of the arm e³, which is a wedge
block, to ride against the wedge block G and push the projection G and arm F
inward against the pressure of the spring f. In order that this movement may take
place, however, it is necessary that the holding block G³ shall be movable and actuated
by a spring, for otherwise, with the parts in the position represented in Figure 22,
the arm could not be moved, until the projection or arm g has been moved
sufficiently to bring the block G into a position which will enable the spring-actuated
block G³ to be moved between its end and the edge of the plate e³, that is, to the
position shown in Figure 21. This block G³ is therefore fastened to the arm e³ to
slide or move horizontally thereon in opposition to the stress of the spring g³.
The wedge blocks G G2 should be a trifle longer than the block G in order that
they may move the block G¹ inward sufficiently to permit the movement of the slide
block G³ before they clear each other.
This transferring movement of the lower needle block takes place without stopping
the operation of the stitch-forming devices, so that the stitching of the eye and
sides is followed without interruption by the stitching of the bar.
The lower needle bar preferably is moved sufficiently to bring the needles into a
position to make a barring stitch about twice the length of the side stitch.

page_text: It is also necessary that the needle B be transferred or moved quickly at the
desired instant, and for this reason especially the slide block G³ is used because it
enables me to bring into position a support from the end of which the holding
block G may immediately move upon the movement of the slide plate e¹ ; and it
also enables me to bring such a support into such a position in relation to the wedge
block G that this movement of the block G shall not take place until the wedge
block G has cleared the wedge block G³, so that their inclines shall not come
together during this transferring movement of the needle, so that the movement is
nade as quickly as it is possible to make it by means of a spring.
The wedge blocks are used for the purpose of moving the needle-block back to its
original or normal position.
I would say that I do not confine myself to the specific mechanism herein described
connecting the slide plate or latch operated by the clamp plate with the movable arm
carrying the lower needle, as there are many mechanical equivalents for the
mechanism which I have described for accomplishing this feature of my invention,
namely the automatic release of the block carrying the needle bar at the end of the
stitching of a side, to bring the needle into a new position without stopping the
machine, and so as to permit the sewing to continue and the barring stitches to be
formed.
The looping devices are given such a range or extent of movement that it is not
necessary to change their relation to each other for any change in position of the
two needles. The upper looping device H is adapted to take the lower thread from
the lower needle and to carry it horizontally and deliver it in the form of a loop
beneath the point of the upper needle and in its path. This upper looper 1 have
shown in Figures 13, 15, 18, 19 and 20. It has a point which engages the lower
thread or passes between it and the side of the lower needle. This point is formed
upon the end of a foot which has the rounded or curved upper surface and the
curved side surface 2. This foot is in front of the arm h³. Upon the rear or back
side of the arm h³ there is formed a vertical recess or groove h, and the arm above
the foot is made somewhat long horizontally. This looper is provided with a compound
movement in relation to the two needles. It is first advanced in a straight line or
path to engage the thread of the lower needle, and having taken it it is then moved
upon the arc of a circle so as to bring the vertical groove or recess h, upon the other
side of the upper needle or to the position shown in Figure 19, and this causes the
loop to be opened or spread and to be held open or spread during the downward
movement of the upper needle, which then immediately takes place, upon a line with
the vertical groove or recess. This combined movement is imparted to the looper by
means of the cam groove in the cam disc (see Figures 8 and 9) the lever / which
is pivotted at 7 and which has a cam pin which enters the cam groove, and which is
connected with the looper arm by means of the link 48, having a ball joint
connection with the lever and also with the arm 3. The looper arm³ is attached by
a compound pivot (which in effect makes a universal joint) to the head of the
machine, and its upper end 40 enters a cam groove 11, in the plate h¹ so that its end
is caused to be moved first in a straight line and then in a curved line, the motion
being imparted to it by means of the cams, levers and link above indicated.
The lower looping mechanism comprises two parts namely, a slide m, carrying the
block M having a point m¹ which is moved across the side of the upper needle to
engage the upper thread and carry it from the needle. This slide is attached to a
bar m² which is reciprocated by means of a cam groove in the cam disc m³ upon the
shaft the bar having a cam pin which extends into the cam groove. There is also
used in connection with this thread-engaging hook the loop spreading arm m* which
is pivotted at m and the point m³ of which is arranged to be moved transversely the
line of the hook by the pin m' upon the slide m so that as the thread is engaged by
the hook and moved away from the upper needle the spreading point is also caused to
be moved laterally to engage the thread and open the loop, and the loop is held by
the upper needle the loop-engaging point m¹ and the spreading point m³ until the

page_text: lower needle has entered it, when the parts are returned to their original position, the
point me, by means of the spring m³.
Any suitable take-ups may be used. The upper thread take-up comprises an arm N,
which is pivotted at n and is moved by the cam n¹ on the cam disc a³, with which it
is connected by means of the stud n², and lever n³, which has a cam pin n bearing
against the cain. A spring n', attached to the end of the lever n³ serves to hold the
cam pin or projection in contact with the cam.
The lower take-up O, is made in the form of an arm o attached to the shaft o³,
which is operated by the edge cam o³, and spring o³.
The ratchet covering and pawl disengaging plate is made somewhat inclined upon
its inner or working edge, so that its outer end shall ride over the ratchet-teeth first
and thus move slightly behind the pawl, so that the pawl on its backward movement
is caused to ride on to the surface of the plate.
In operation the work is placed on the clamp plate and clamped, the machine
started, the lower needle enters the button-hole slit, presents the lower thread to the
upper looper, which engages it and carries it in the form of a loop to the upper
needle, which passes through it and the material close to the edge of the button-hole
slit. The upper thread is in turn taken by the lower looping devices and presented to
the lower needle, which has been moved down to its original position, and the lower
needle passes through its loop taking the lower thread with it and again presents its
thread to the upper looper, and this action continues, the material being fed by the
clamp plate forward, the clamp plate having an intermittent forward movement only,
and the needles moving upon the same lines and the same distance apart in relation to
each other, until they have sewn one side, the eye and the other side. At the end of
the stitching of the other side the clamp plate trips the spring-held arm carrying the
lower needle bar, and it is then moved by the spring laterally, so that its needle instead
of continuing to move through the button-hole slit is caused to be moved through the
material upon the other side of the slit, each needle will then be separated by a space
about double that which formerly separated them, and this is done without interrupting
the operation of the sewing devices; and the next stitch which is formed after the
lower needle block has been thus transferred is about twice the length of the stitches
previously made, and is the barring stitch, and as many of them will be taken as desired,
generally from three to five or six.
The machine is then stopped, the clamp plate returned to its original position, the
movement of the clamp plate releases devices which cause the lower needle block
to be moved back again automatically to its original position. In order that the lower
needle may be on the same line with the upper in its two positions, I have hung the
needle block arm F somewhat off a centre taken from the centre of the button to the
centre of the pivot, so that in transferring it shall be moved past the centre to as great
a distance upon the other side thereof, and this causes the lower needle to be still
maintained in the same straight line with the upper needle; and this will not be the
case if the arm carrying the needle block were pivotted upon a centre with the centre of
the throat.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to me
by my foreign Correspondent I declare that what I claim is ;-
First. In a button-hole stitching machine, the combination of a clamp-plate having
an intermittent feed movement imparted to it, with the two needles, one of which is
adapted to be reciprocated continuously in the same vertical path or plane, and the
other of which is adapted to be reciprocated first in one vertical path or plane for a
certain period or during the stitching of a certain part of the button-hole, and then
upon another vertical path or plane during the stitching of the bar, and suitable looping
devices, substantially as described.
Second. The combination of the clamp-plate adapted to have an intermittent feed
movement imparted to it, the needles and mechanism for reciprocating them upon

page_text: parallel planes, or in parallel paths during the stitching of the sides and eye of the
button-hole, and devices for increasing the space between them without interrupting
their movement or reciprocation, with proper looping devices and devices for auto-
matically stopping or limiting the feed movement of the clamp-plate at the instant
that the change in the relative positions of the needles takes place, substantially as
described.
Third. The combination of the clamp-plate, adapted to have an intermittent feed
movement imparted to it, the upper needle A and its needle bar a¹ and cam for
operating the same, the lower needle B, and its needle bar b, and cam for operating
the same; and the needle bar block 6, adapted to be moved laterally automatically,
and to be held in its new position for the purpose of varying the distance between the
two needles, substantially as described.
Fourth. The combination of the reciprocating needles A B, and means for varying
their relations to each other automatically during their operation, with upper and lower
thread-carrying and loop-forming devices having an invariable throw or movement for
the two positions of the needles, substantially as described.
Fifth. The combination of the clamp-plate having an intermittent movement during
the stitching of the sides and eye of the button-hole, the reciprocating upper straight
needle A, the reciprocating lower straight needle B, adapted to be moved upon one
plane during the stitching of the sides and eye of the button-hole, and then to be
automatically transferred to a new position to increase the distance between it and the
needle A, a loop-forming device above the clamp-plate a loop-forming device below
the clamp-plate, both of which have invariable imovements for both positions of the
needle, substantially as described.
Sixth. The combination of the reciprocating needle A, the reciprocating needle B,
the needle bar 61, its holding block 6, the arm F, the clamp-plate adapted to have an
intermittent movement imparted to it, and a latch adapted to be operated by the
clamp-plate to release a spring, for moving the said arm F with the said spring, sub-
stantially as described.
Seventh. The combination of a reciprocating needle B, the needle bar 61, the holding
block 2, a clamp-plate having an intermittent feed movement, a latch operated by the
movement of the clamp-plate against it to release a spring adapted to move said
block 62 laterally, and said spring, substantially as described.
Eighth. The combination of the needle B, the needle bar b', the needle block 3, and
a spring for providing the needle bar and block with a lateral movement substantially
as described.
Ninth. The combination of the needle B, the needle bar b', the needle block 62, the
spring constantly acting upon the needle block 6 to move it horizontally in one
direction, and a holding device for holding the needle bar in opposition to the stress
of the spring, provided with a movement in relation to the block whereby the
spring is permitted to operate to move the needle block, as and for the purposes
described.
Tenth. The combination of the needle B and the needle bar b', the lever ³ connected
with the needle bar b', substantially as specified, and the movable needle block b³,
and latch or lock for holding it, and a spring for moving it upon the release. of the
latch or lock, substantially as described.
Eleventh. The combination of the needle B, the needle bar b¹, the block 63, the
arm F, pivotted as described, and spring f², substantially as set forth.
Twelfth. The combination of the movable needle block 62, and its arm g, having the
wedge-block G, and holding block G₁, with a slide having the wedge block G₁ and
movable holding block G³, substantially as described.
Thirteenth. The combination of the movable needle-block 6*. its arm g, the wedge
block G, the holding block G', the slide having the wedge block G' and the slide
block G³, and spring gå for moving the slide block, substantially as described.
Fourteenth. The combination of the movable needle block 3, the arm y having the
wedge-block G, with the arm 3 having the wedge-block G², and springs. for moving

page_text: the arm e to bring the wedge-block Gʻ in contact with the wedge-block &, as, and for
the purposes, described.
Fifteenth. The combination of the needle bar 62, the arm g, the wedge-block G,
the spring-moved wedge block G³, and a lock or latch for locking the block 6' upon
its movement with the wedge blocks, substantially as described.
Sixteenth. The combination of the movable needle-block 62, the clamp-plate, a slide
plate el adapted to be moved by the clamp-plate, in opposition to spring pressure to
unlatch the needle block 62, and a device connecting the slide plate with the block b²,
whereby upon the movement of the clamp-plate and release of the slide plate e¹ the
needle block is returned to its original position, substantially as described.
Seventeenth. In a ratchet plate, the combination of the feed ratchet wheel c", the
feed pawle, and the ratchet-wheel-covering plate D, shaped upon its outer edge as
described, all as, and for the purposes, set forth.
Eighteenth. The combination of the feed ratchet wheel c", the feed pawl c", the
adjustable crank pin e, and the connecting rod e, substantially as described.
Nineteenth. The combination of the reciprocating upper needle A, the reciprocating
lower needle B, the needle bar 6', its holding block 6, the spring f, a clamp-plate,
a feeding device, a slide plate carrying an unlatching device for unlatching the needle
block 6, and permitting its movement by means of the spring f, and a device for
stopping the actuation of the clamp-plate feed, which slide plate is adapted to be
moved or turned in one direction by the clamp plate coming in contact therewith, or
with a projection therefrom, and in a reverse direction, by suitable springs, substantially
as described.
Twentieth. The combination of the needle B with the looping mechanism, com
prising the slide m, the block M, having the thread-engaging point m', the pin m',
carried by the slide m the curved arm m pivotted at m³, and having the loop-spreading
point me and spring m³, substantially as described.
Twenty-first. The combination of the arm F, having the slot f³, the stud f, the
needle block &, and the adjusting screws f, f, substantially as described.
Twenty-second. The combination of the reciprocating upper needle A, the recipro-
cating lower needle B, the transferring block 62, the upper looper H, the lower looping
devices m¹ mo, the upper take-up N, and the lower take-up O, as, and for the purposes,
described.
Twenty-third. The combination of the lower take-up O, the shaft o¹, the edge cam o*,
and spring of substantially as described.
Twenty-fourth. The combination of the upper take-up N, its stud n and lever n³,
cam n', and spring no, substantially as described.
Twenty-fifth. The looper H, having the pointed foot h, provided with the curved
surfaces, and the groove h', substantially as described.
Twenty-sixth. The method of stitching or barring a button hole, comprising the
stitching of one side, the eye and the other side of the button-hole by two needles and
appropriate looping devices, as a continuous operation, which needles are a uniform
distance apart during said stitching, and in then completing the button hole by sewing
a bar across the end of the stitch by the same sewing devices, and upon the move-
ment of one needle in relation to the other, to increase the distance between the two,
substantially as described.
Twenty-seventh. The method of stitching and barring button-holes, consisting in
stitching one side, the eye and the other side of the button-hole by two needles, and
appropriate looping mechanism, which needles are straight and are reciprocated one
fron below the work-plate through the button-hole slit and one from above the work
plate through the material; second in forming the bar by moving the lower needle
laterally in relation to the upper needle to a new position, and without interrupting
the movements of the needles and looping devices, all substantially as described.
Twenty-eighth. The method of stitching and barring button holes by two needles
one of which is arranged above the work-plate and one below it, and one of which is
moved during the stitching of the sides and eye through the button-hole slit or hole

page_text: and the other through the material, and appropriate looping devices, and then forming
the bar by lengthening the stitch at the completion of the stitching of the last side of
the button-hole by moving one needle away from the other to increase the distance
between them, and continuing the reciprocation of both needles in their new relation,
substantially as described.
Twenty-ninth. The method of stitching and barring button-holes, comprising the
employment of looping devices baving a uniform extent of movement throughout the
stitching of the sides and barring of the button-hole; second, two needles adapted to
have two positions, one for stitching the sides and eye of the button-hole and the
other for stitching the bar of the button-hole, and which is obtained by moving one
needle away from the other to increase the distance or space between them, substantially
as described.
Thirtieth. The process of stitching and barring button-holes, comprising the feeding
of the material to a stitch forming mechanism by means of a clamp-plate to stitch the
sides and eye of a button-hole, then stopping the feeding of the clamp-plate auto-
matically, and at the same time automatically moving one needle from the other, and
continuing their reciprocation or movements in their now position to stitch or form
the stay or bar across the end of the button hole without stopping the sewing mechanism,
substantially as described.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.