Improvements relating to the Manufacture of “ Crepon or Crinkled Cotton Fabrica.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Doc., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 9th Sept., 1899-Accepted, 14th Oct., 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
"
Improvements relating to the Manufacture of “ Crepon or Crinkled
Cotton Fabrica.
We, WILLIAM EDWARD KAY, of Thornliebank, near Glasgow, Chemist, and
THE THORNLIEBANK COMPANY LIMITED, of 4, West Regent Street, Glasgow, de
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:—
"
"
The improvements relate to the weaving of " crepon or crinkled cotton fabrics,
and have for object the production of the "crepon or orinkled portions of such
fabrics by a method as hereinafter described.
To accomplish this and to effect our improvements, we employ cotton yarns
which have been " 'silked" or lustred by the process of what is known as
mercerisation of such yarns while under tension. These mercerised yarns are
either wholly or in part protected by gum, albumen, gelatine, or any other
suitable resist or protection against the action of caustic soda, and we employ them
in combination with other yarns which may be wholly or partially unprotected.
This combination of yarns forming the warp of the fabric 18 woven with the
weft, which may be either, or both, plain protected, plain non-protected, or
silked and protected, according to the pattern or effect desired to be produced
"
After such yarns have been thus woven into a fabric, the cloth so produced is
treated with a solution of caustic alkali without subjection to strain, which will
have the effect of shrinking. or mercerising, the non-protected portions of the
yarns, while those portions of the yarns which are protected by the resist will
be cinkled or given a
crepon" effect. We are aware that somewhat analogous
effects have been obtained by means of printing with resists upon ordinary woven
fabrics, and afterwards treating the same to a solution of caustic alkali; but
this is entirely different from this our present invention, which consists in pre-
paring "silked" or lustred cotton varns, prior to weaving, with such resists, and
employing the same in combination with other yarns which have not been
silked" or lustred, whether in part protected or not, as herein before described,
also prior to weaving
Variations in detail may be made, such as in the relative proportions of the
different varns used, and in their distribution in the fabric,, for the purpose of
varving the design, and also in the character of the resists or protectors employed
whether of a mechanical, chemical, or mechanico-chemical nature, without
departing from the peculiar character of the invention.
D1
OWLL
1000
WILLIAM GADD; C.E,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester, Agent for Applicant.

page_text: Improviments relating to the Manufacture of "Orepon" or Orinkled
Cotton Fabrics.
We, WILLIAM Edward Kay, of Thornliebank, near Glasgow, Chemist, and
THE THORNLIEBANK COMPANY LIMITED, of 4, West Regent Street, Glasgow, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the follow-
ing statement:-
"
The improvements relate to the manufacture of "crepon or crinkled cotton
fabrics, and have for object the production of the "crepon" or crinkled portions
of such fabrics by a method as hereinafter described
To accomplish this and to effect our improvements, we employ cotton yarns
which have been previously "Bilked" or lustred by the process of what is known
as mercerisation of such yarns while under tension. These mercerised yarns
are protected by gum, albumen, gelatine, or any other suitable resist or pro-
tection against the action of caustic soda, and we employ them for weaving pur-
poses in combination with other yarns which are all or a portion of them unpro-
tected. This combination of yarns forming the warp of the fabric is woven with
the weft, which may be either plain protected, plain non-protected, or silked
and protected, or combination of such according to the pattern or effect desired
to be produced.
After such yarns have been thus woven into a fabric, the cloth so produced is
treated with a solution of caustic alkalı without subjection to strain, which will
have the effect of shrinking, or mercerising, the non-protected portions of the
yains, while those portions of the yarns which are protected by the resist will
be crinkled or given a
crepon" effect. We are aware that somewhat analogous
effects have been obtained by means of printing with resists upon ordinary
woven fabrics, and afterwards treating the same to a solution of caustic alkali;
but this is entirely different from this our present invention, which consists in
preparing "silked" or lustred cotton yarns, prior to weaving, with such resists,
and employing the same in combination with other yarns which have not been
"silked" or lustred, whether in part protected or not, as herein before described,
also prior to weaving.
In the after treatment of fabrics woven with yarns which are not readily
impregnated with the caustic liquor, it is sometimes advisable to employ a three
bowl mangle, giving the goods two nips thereof and passing them through the
liquor prior to each nip to ensure complete saturation.
It however we are using a soluble chemical resist, such as sal ammoniac, the
goods should be padded at one nip only of the mangle, and preferably without
going through the liquor in the box For this reason we prefer in ordinary cases
to use resists which are less readily removed from the cloth When using
albumen or gelatine we prefer to render it insoluble, the former by steaming and
the latter by treatment with formic aldehyde.
We have found in practice that a resist very suitable for the purpose of carry-
ing out our invention may be composed of 3 lbs. of British gum, 12 ounces of
gelatine, and 4 ounces of glycerine to a gallon of water; but we do not confine
ourselves to such a resist, as variations in detail may be made, such as in the
relative proportions of the different varns used, and in their distribution in the
fabric, for the purpose of varving the design, and also in the character of the
resists or protectors emploved, whether of a mechanical, chemical, or mechanico-
chemical nature, without departing from the peculiar character of the invention

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same 18 to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
The manufacture of "orepon" or crinkled cotton fabrics by employing in
the weaving thereof cotton yarns which have been previously "Bilked" ог
lustred by the process of mercerisation under tension and also protected by
resists against caustic alkali, in combination with other cotton yarns not so
protected; and afterwards subjecting the cloth woven from such yarns to a
solution of caustic alkalı; for the purpose and in manner substantially as herein
shown and described.
Dated this 8th day of September 1899.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester, Agent for Applicant.