A NEW OR IMPROVED CLOTH OR FABRIC
Year: 1864

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Richard Archibald Brooman at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
5th March 1864.-A communication from abroad by Francois Vouillon,
of Louviers, France.
I, RICHARD ARCHIBALD BROOMAN, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of
London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "A NEW OR IMPROVED CLOTH OR FABRIC," to be as follows:-
This Invention consists in the manufacture of a double cloth or fabric, one
side or face of which is woven with felted woollen threads, and the other side
or face with any suitable material, so that the fabric may without being fulled
be made up into garments and other articles, one side of the fabric forming
the body and the other side the lining of the article. I am aware that cloths
or fabrics have already been woven without what is called a "wrong side," but
either these fabrics were formed of wool on one side, in which case they were
necessarily submitted to fulling, scouring, and other operations followed in the
manufacture of woollen cloth, or one side of the fabric was formed of wool
and the other side of a fabric of different material, and as the woollen part
was fulled, while the other part of cotton, silk, or other material was not,
the result was that of the sides puckered up and an injurious effect was thus
produced.
Tailors, upholsterers, and others find great difficulty in lining the articles
they manufacture. To line coats and other garments the right side of which

page_text: is of wool tailors usually employ fabrics of another material, such as silk,
cotton, and alpaca, but even with the greatest skill it is difficult to fit the
lining exactly, if the lining is too narrow the cloth puckers where it ought to
be flat, and if it is too broad it forms folds. Upholsterers find the same
difficulties in lining curtains.
The new or improved cloth or fabric made according to this Invention
obviates these inconveniences. For garments for men and women one face
of the fabric is entirely woven, both warp and weft, of silk, floss silk, alpaca,
cotton, flax, or hemp. I employ for the other side of the fabric threads of
felted wool which are already partly fulled, are very even without torsion, com-
bine very closely in weaving, and do not require any subsequent fulling. I
scour the felted threads before weaving them. The cloth or fabric thus manu-
factured may be made up into garments and other articles without fulling,
scouring, or the other operations to which woollen fabrics are usually sub-
mitted, and it has the great advantage of doing away with the necessity of an
independent lining. When in the case of trousers the reverse side is formed
of cloth, linen, or cotton, drawers may be dispensed with. Sometimes to make
the fabric supple and soft I pumice it with pumicestone, pounded glass, or
other suitable material. If it is desired to produce a fabric both warm and
light I nap the lining; it will thus have the appearance of plush or fur. The
manufacture of the new cloth or fabric admits of the employment of a double
warp and a double weft. One side is formed of a weft and warp of felted
threads, the employment of which dispenses with fulling, and is an important
feature of this Invention; the other side is formed of a weft and warp of flax,
hemp, silk, cotton, floss silk, or other suitable material. As the one side
of the fabric is composed of finer threads than the other side, more threads
would be used for the upper than for the lower warp and weft.