IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS USED FOR STRETCHING, DRYING, & FINISHING WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1860

page_text: County of Middlesex, Engineer & Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS USED FOR STRETCHING, DRYING, & FINISHING
WOVEN FABRICS." A communication from abroad by Alphonse Delharpe,
of Tarare, Rhone, in the Empire of France.
Sealed the 3rd August 1860, and dated the 13th February 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clark at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 13th
February 1860.
I, WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer & Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS USED FOR STRETCHING, DRYING, & FINISHING
WOVEN FABRICS," to be as follows:-
This Invention consists of a stretching operation for rectifying fabrics
which have become frayed. In bleaching, dyeing, damping, or otherwise
manipulating fabrics, the threads constituting the fabric become more or less
deranged, consequently subsequent operations are necessary to restore them
and finish the fabric. In close fabrics the near connection of the threads
forms an obstacle to their displacement, hence open fabrics are more liable to
fray than others. In hand stretching, which is an imperfect operation, two
persons are placed on each side of the fabric, which is first moistened with
water or dressing, who hold the opposite edges with both hands and pull it.
several times in diagonal, directions, afterwards holding the fabric at another

page_text: part, & so on until the operation is complete; the fabric is then placed in
a frame to be stretched and dried.
According to this Invention the operation is effected by means of an
improved stretching and drying frame suitably arranged for producing a
sufficiently extended motion-for stretching all kinds of fabrics, however open
they may be. This improved stretching & drying frame consists of a series of
fixed supports, each supporting a vertical axis; these axes are placed in the
same horizontal line and have each two parts which can simultaneously slide
in opposite directions. Two parallel parts for holding the edges of the fabric
are jointed to the extremities of these cross bars, which gripping bands form
together with two rollers or pin bars (separated the one from the other) a
rectangular frame on which to place the fabric after it is dressed, and while
still damp the ends are attached to the pins, after which it is stretched in the
direction of its length and seized between the gripper bands, which are also
stretched by means of the cross bars, thereby extending it in width. The
fabric when thus stretched on this jointed frame has its warp threads parallel
to the nipper bands and its weft threads at right angles thereto, and parallel
to the rollers or pin bars, and consequently to the cross bars.
If the cross
bars are turned on their vertical axes the rectangular jointed frame becomes
oblique, and the nipper bands moving in the contrary direction will approach
each other and form with the rollers or pin bars an elongated parallelogram.
The warp & weft threads being kept stretched also follow the same movement
as the parts above mentioned, and coming in contact with each other mutually
correct their positions; this motion is continued until the fabric resists, that is
to say, when the threads are well pressed together, the frame is then returned
to its original rectangular form, after which it may be again elongated in an
opposite direction to the foregoing, until the resistance of the threads of the
fabrics takes place for producing the same effect as described above. "By
repeating this double movement a sufficient- number of times the fabric will
become perfectly stretched, the frame is then fixed in the rectangular form
for the drying operation. If the fabric is to be rendered supple a slight
movement is imparted to the fabric during the drying. To afford élasticity
and prevent injury to the fabric: during the full extent of motion the tension
longitudinally and transversely may be effected by means of springs.

page_text: :
.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
11th August 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer and
Patent Agent, send greeting..
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing late the Thirteenth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-third year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said William Clark, Her special licence that I, the said William
Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said William Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
úsé, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN APPARATUS USED FOR STRETCHING; DRYING, AND FINISHING WOVEN FABRICS,"
a. communication from abroad by 'Alphonse Delharpe, of Tarare, Rhone, in
the Empire of France, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
William Clark, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
únider my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months: next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Clark, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being bad to the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
This Invention consists of a stretching machine for rectifying fabrics which
have become frayed either in the bleaching, dyeing, or damping opera-
tions, or other manipulations which woven fabrics cannot undergo without
the position of their threads becoming more or less deranged.
Fabrics, as every, one knows, consist of longitudinal or warp threads, and
transverse as weft threads crossing each other, the regularity and rectitude of
their positions constituting the beauty of the tissue. The closer the fabric,

page_text: the less liable it is to fraying, while an open fabric becomes readily frayed.
Open fabrics, either silk, wool, cotton, or others, cannot as already hinted
undergo the bleaching, dyeing, and finishing manipulations without serious
derangements occurring in the position of their threads. The operation by
which woven fabrics are rectified is termed the stretching operation. The
method mostly in use for stretching is this:-Two persons are placed opposite
each other on each side of the moistened fabric, who hold the opposite edges
with both hands, and pull it several times successively in diagonal directions
formed by the parallelogram of their four hands, afterwards holding the fabric
at another part, and so on until the operation is complete. By means of the
apparatus shown in the Drawings annexed a thorough stretching of.the
fabric can be obtained at once both of the warp and weft threads throughout
the extent of the fabric. The near connections existing between this and the
dressing or finishing machine require some explanation. Dressing or finishing
is the last operation which most fabrics have to undergo previous to their
being delivered to the trade. This operation consists in dipping the fabric
into an aqueous or mucilaginous bath, and spreading it afterwards to be dried
on a frame provided lengthwise with two gripper bands; by which the edges
of the fabric are stretched in the direction of the thread, the bands being set
apart by means of machinery, the form of which may be varied: This frame
is completed by two small cross bars with pins for stretching the fabric in the
direction of the warp threads.
The stretching machine made use of for that purpose is well known; special
dressings known in France under various names are effected in the same
manner. From 20 to 30 years ago, a machine was patented which answered
the double purpose of stretching fabrics, and breaking the dressing of supple
tissues of a certain description, which operation previous to that period was
effected by hand after the fabric was dried. Such result is attained by placing
a small pivot under the cross bars which supports the gripper bands of the
stretching machine, said bands being themselves made to rest upon small
axes. This arrangement permits of imparting to the frame, and consequently
to the fabric a to-and-fro motion, by which the dressing is broken, whether
such movement is imparted during or after the drying. I have obtained
Letters Patent for certain improvements in the said machine by which new
results are produced. The stretching of all sorts of woven fabrics obtained by
extending the small evolutions of the breaking apparatus to its extreme pitch;
the defective construction of old machinery, and their previously restricted
movement, never permitted of their effective application to stretching purposes,
and English muslins whatever may be their dressing, still show a certain

page_text: degree of imperfection which detracts from their value. The old machine has
now been so transformed as to constitute a new stretching & finishing
machine, from the action of which not a single thread can escape unrectified;
and which operates in both directions of the threads, instead of operating in
only one direction as was the case with manual action. This machine consists
of a series of stationary bearings, each furnished with a vertical axis, which
bearings are all fitted in the same horizontal line, eacli carrying a cross bar
which has two parts capable of sliding simultaneously in opposite directions in
consequence of their ends being brought close to or apart from each other.
Two gripper bands movable and parallel between them are so arranged as to
grip the edges of the fabric to be stretched. These are supported on and
jointed to the ends of the cross bars, and form with two rollers or pin bars
a rectangular frame, on which the fabric moistened with dressing is placed.
The ends are attached to the pins, and the stretching is effected lengthwise;
after which the edges are seized between the gripper bands, which being dis-
tended apart by the cross bars will cause the fabric to be stretched in the
direction of its width.
In the annexed Drawings I have represented this improved machine, of
which Fig. 1 shows a vertical elevation; Fig. 2 a plan showing the end
jointed movements of the upper bands and cross bars, which movements or
evolutions are shown in red and blue lines; Fig. 3 shows a vertical section
taken through the line 1, 2, of Fig. 1; Fig. 4 shows a vertical section of a
pin or gripper band; aud Fig. 5 an elevation of the same. In these Figures
the same letters of reference represent like parts where they recur..
A represents the bed for receiving the framing; B, B, cast-iron framing
connected by cross bars a, the number of which may vary; C, cast-iron rails
fitted at their centre to the axes; D, D, central axes supporting the whole
system; E, wood cross extension pieces; F, gripper bands; G. pair of rollers
superposed; H, cast-iron pulleys, having their supports fitted to the cross
bars a; I, iron bars driven by screw K; J, regulators of the straps attached
to the bars I; K, driving screw with its crank b; L, female screw; M, springs
for pulling the weft threads; N, cast-iron shoulder receiving the jointing
axes 0; 0, jointing axes; P, cast-iron supports of the roller Q; Q, roller
carrying a pin range; R, axis of the bearing P; S, bar or rule carrying a
pin range; T, springs for pulling the warp threads; U, axis of the rule S;
V, stop for securing the frame in a rigid state; X, extension straps; Z, with-
drawing strap. a, iron cross bars; b, crank of screw K; c, connecting point
of the extension straps to cross pieces E; f, connecting point of the with-
drawing straps; 9, bronze ring connecting the straps; h, cast-iron supports for

page_text: bearing and guiding the cross pieces E; 1, carriage; m, wood grooved bands
in which the carriage is made to slide; n, axes supporting the bands m;
p, small board resting on the two cast-iron supports h; s, roller for receiving
the strap attached to. the carriage; v, roller fitted to the cross pieces E,
and travelling on railway C; x, socket for admitting the axes Z.
The whole being arranged as described and represented in the annexed
Drawings, and supposing the frame to be kept rigid by means of the straps V;
the two ends of the fabric laid thereon are attached, the one to the pins on roller
Q, and the other to the pins on rule S. The fabric is first stretched length-
wise by means of the strap attached to spring T, which pulls the rule S,
afterwards the edges are gripped between the pincers on bands F, and the
fabric is stretched in the direction of its width by the action of screw K. The
stretching operation should take place as soon as the fabric is laid out
and while it is damp. The frame is by tlie lowering of stop V, rendered
movable and towwhich is imparted in the two directions that jointed move-
ment which is peculiar thereto, so that both the warp and the weft threads
may be drawn quite close to each other, so that the most. open-fabric may
look very close.The fabric is thus to be acted upon for a few seconds accord-
ing, to the requirements. The frayed threads in thus being laid against one
another and being submitted besides to a tension proportionate to their
strength tighten and rectify themselves mutually. There results from this
method of proceeding an effect almost as remarkable as the stretching itself;
viz the limpness imparted to the dressing and the diaphanity acquired by
the tissue. If it is desired to obtain firm dressing, the damp fabric should
be acted upon in a sufficient manner, and the stretching being thus effected
the drying takes place on the frame while it is rigid, whereas if the dress-
ing is required. to be supple; then I proceed with what I term the jointed
movement in a very limited degree whilst the woven fabric is drying. The
said 'movement is represented in red and blue, lines, Fig. 1. In their natural
position the weft threads form with the warp threads an angle of 90° and the
frame in its circular evolution in a double direction causes the threads to bé
displaced so as to make them describe an angle of 5° if required. From the
extent and precision of that movement each thread may be considered as a
diameter the centre of which is stationary, while the ends are moving about
its circumference. The objections made against the old breaking stretching
system are, its want of tension on the woven fabric as the threads extend in
becoming rectified, its want of lightness, extension of its parts & parallelism
in its movement. In the present system these inconveniences have been
avoided. 1st, this want of an elastic continuous tension have rendered neces-

page_text: sary the application of the spiral springs M, T. 2ndly, in order to obtain
speed in the evolutions iron has been substituted for wood, all the parts of the
old machine have been improved, the bands hung, and the whole system poised
on the central pivot D. 3rdly, the extent of the evolutions result from the
new arrangement of frame B, the rails C, the straps X, Y, the roller G, the
rulers T, and the angular forms of the bands being such as to permit of the
frame accomplishing concentric movements of large extent as shown in blue
and red lines at Fig. 2. 4thly, parallelism has become the result of the new
position given to the axis R, U, Z, and also to the jointing axes, a condition
absolutely necessary for the circular movement imparted to the threads, being
effected with mathematical precision, without any danger of deterioration of
the fabric even when submitted to a great tension. I dwell on this fact that
all the axes supporting the bands F have their centres in a line vertical from.
the front of said bands and the axis R, bearing the roller P, and rule S,
have their centres placed in a vertical line passing through the pins. The
same arrangement is observed with regard to the jointing axes O. The
method of stretching consists therefore in having contrived a parallelogramic
jointed movement of the greatest extent applied to dressing or finishing
apparatus. When it is desired to act upon pieces of greater length than the
extent of the frame the side bands m are taken off and a pin roller is placed
on the bearing P.
Having thus described the nature of the said improvements in apparatus
used for stretching drying and finishing woven fabrics, I desire it to be under-
stood that I do not confine myself to the precise details herein set forth and
represented, as such may be varied or modified without departing from the
principle of action thereof, and I claim as new, and as the Invention to be pro-
tected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, the application of
the improved machine herein described to stretching fabrics of every descrip-
tion, either plain or figured, for the purpose of correcting the position of their
threads and improving their aspect.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clark, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Tenth day of August, in the year of our Lord, One thou-
sand eight hundred and sixty.
W. CLARK. (L.S.)