Improvements in Boots and Shoes for Footwear.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Apr., 1891-Accepted 23rd May, 1891
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boots and Shoes for Footwear.
I, THOMAS JOHN HOOD, of Newtown Road, Sydney, in the Colony of New
South Wales, Doctor of Medicine, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
These improvements relate to boots and shoes for footwear. They have
particular reference to the shape of the boot or shoe; to the employment of gores
which extend from the leg to the toe thereof, and in which elastic webbing is
secured and to the employment of covering tongues or flaps in connection with
such gore or webbing.
The drawings hereunto annexed illustrate the various details of the invention
and its application generally to a boot. Figure 1 is a bottom plan of the boot,
Figure 2 side elevation, Figures 3, 4 and 5 top views in perspective, and Figure 6
transverse section. The application of the improvements to a shoe is precisely
analogous.
The invention is capable of considerable modification. Thus, the elastic
webbing may be allowed to remain bare interiorly, and if desirable exteriorly
also as in the well-known elastic side boot; or the webbing may be covered by a
flap exteriorly or by a tongue interiorly, or by both. Several such features will
hereinafter be described, but I wish it to be understood that such descriptions are
not intended to be exhaustive of the possible modifications, many of which will be
evident to any skilled workman.
Figure 2 shows an exterior view of a boot to which the improvements are
applied; Figure 3 a perspective view of a boot having a full covering flap sewn
down on one edge and buttoned along the opposite edge; Figure 4 a perspective
view of a boot having a half-covering flap sewn along the centre line of the upper
and buttoned along the outer edge; Figure 5 a perspective view of a boot
having a central gore provided with elastic webbing but without covering ſlaps or
tongues.
I am aware that heretofore both boots and shoes have been made with side
elastic webs, and that shoes have been made with similar webs in the front quarters
of the vamps, which webs extend, however, only a little below the instep.
I am
also aware that shoes have been made heretofore with a central elastic webbing
extending from the mouth to a point slightly below the instep. These constructions
I therefore disclaim.
The first part of the invention has reference to the shape or form of the sole,
by which the shape of the boot or shoe is determined. Reference to Figure 1 of
the drawings will show that the inside edge 1 of the sole 2 is made nearly or quite
in line with the heel 3 and is approximately an unbent line from the shank curve 4
forward until it merges into the curve of the toe 5. The toe is made of the
desired width and the corners are cut away-the inner corner as little as possible
and with a view only to improving the appearance of the boot or shoe, and the
outer corner with regard to the shape of the foot of the person by whom the article
is to be worn. Hitherto it has been customary to curve the inner edge I and the
effect has been to throw its forward part in contact with the side of the great toc
to the injury of the latter. In the shape of boot shown in Figure 1 of the
drawings, freedom is allowed the great toe whilst the other toes may fall into their
natural positions.
Contact of the outer side of the great toe against the boot or shoe cannot be
avoided when both sides of the sole are made to taper inwards towards the toe.

page_text: The second part of the invention has reference to a system of elastic webbing
in gores and to the covering flaps and tongues which are used in connection
therewith. In all cases the web extends from the leg or mouth to the first joint
of the great toe, the apex being between that toe and the one next it. It is
immaterial whether or not toe-caps are used. If the webbing is to remain exposed
to view exteriorly a leather strip for purposes of ornamentation may be sewn along
it centrally, and side buttons may also be provided as shown in Figures 2 and 4.
The webbing may be inserted centrally as shown in Figures 3 and 5, or on one side
of the centre line only as shown in Figure 4. The exterior covering flap may be
sewn along one side as in Figure 3 or centrally, the free ends being held down by
buttons 6, which pass through eyelets or long button holes in the flaps to allow
freedom of motion when the webbing is stretched by the movement of the foot ;
or it may be sewn centrally and provided with bellows-pieces at the edges as shewn
in Figure 6. Whether buttons or bellows-pieces are used the arrangement must
be such that the covering flaps will be held down against the webbing so as not to
become wrinkled or fall into creases, to prevent which the covering flaps may be
stiffened. Clips or equivalent devices may be substituted for buttons; they should
be so constructed as to be easily unlatched if necessary to facilitate the putting on
and the taking off of the boot or shoe. The construction which I prefer to employ
is that shown in Figure 4. In it the elastic webbing is only used on the outer side
of the boot, being sewn along the centre line thereof and also along the outer
edge, embracing most of the upper part of the leg and extending to the point
beforementioned at the toe. Within the boot is a tongue 7, sewn or otherwise
secured permanently to the vamp at the outer edge and lying free against the
webbing and unattached at the side lying about the centre of the vamp. This
flap may be part of the vamp and integral therewith, the webbing being stitched
to it along the line 8.
Where buttons are secured to the vamp and pass through button-holes or eyelets
in the flaps the arrangement must be such that the edges of the flap will be held
down securely whilst free lateral motion takes place. Bellows-pieces may be used
in addition to the holding-down buttons if required. In some cases the holding-
down buttons are dispensed with, and the flap stiffened sufficiently to make it
maintain close contact unaided with the adjacent part of the vamp and the
webbing.
Two or more separate strips of webbing may be used, one only of which may
extend down the full length.
In all cases the webbing may be brought to a point at its lower extremity, or it
may be curved to a nose; it may also extend below the gore in the vamp, the edges
of which are in such cases sewn down to it.
It is not essential that flaps and tongues should always be used; either or both
may be omitted.
If greater freedom or elasticity is required at and about the leg than is supplied
by the webbing previously described, one or a pair of side elastic webs similar to
those used in the well-known "elastic-side" boot may be provided; and where the
construction is of the nature illustrated in Figure 4 the buttons or clips situated
on the leg and about the instep may be arranged to permit the boot to be opened
and closed at will in a manner similar to ordinary "side-button" and "lace-up
boots Laces may be employed in many cases in lieu of buttons or clips.
"
The form or shape of the boot which has been described with reference to
Figure of the drawings approximates to the natural shape of the human foot,
and is adapted to protect the vulnerable part of the great toe from injury. At
the present time elastic webbing is so used that expansion is not permitted across
the body of the foot, where it is most needed.
I would have it understood that I do not limit myself to the use of the particular
constructions described, as the same are capable of modification and variation
without departure from the principles of the invention.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be used, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A boot or shoe for foot-wear, wherein the inner edge of the sole is formed
unbent or approximately so, and approximately in line with the heel, whether or
not the outer corner of the toe is curved or cut away, substantially as described.
2. A boot or shoe for foot-wear having an elastic webbing fixed in the forward
part of the vamp and extending from the leg to the root of the toes or there-
abouts, substantially as described.
3. The combination with a boot or shoc upper of an elastic web fixed centrally
or approximately so in one or more sections, and extending to a point at the root
of the great toc or thereabouts, substantially as described.
4. The combination with a boot or shoe upper or vamp having an elastic web.
extending from the leg to the root of the toes or thereabouts, of a covering flap or
tongue rigidly secured along one edge to said vamp, and at the other edge held
down against said upper or vamp by buttons, clips, or laces, substantially as
described.
5. The combination of a boot or shoe upper having an elastic web extending
from the leg to the root of the tocs or thereabouts, of a covering flap or tongue
rigidly secured along one edge to said vamp and at the other edge held down
against such upper or vamp by buttons or equivalent contrivances, and a bellows-
piece between the free edge of such flap or tongue and the part of the upper or
vamp lying below same, substantially as described.
6. The combination with a boot or shoe upper or vamp of the general form
illustrated, of a flap or tongue covering the clastic webbing, such flap or tongue
being secured centrally to the said webbing and at the edges held down by buttons
or equivalent contrivances, substantially as described.
7. The combination with a boot or shoe upper or vamp of an elastic web
extending from the leg to the toes or thereabouts, and provided with an interior
tongue sewn to or integral with the upper or vamp at one edge and free at the
other edge, substantially as described with reference to Figure 4 of the drawings.
Dated this 23rd day of February 1891.
Witness,
W. J. SPONSOR, Fell. Aust. Inst. P.A.
THOMAS JOHN HOOD.