Improvements in Dress Bindings or Trimmings, and in Means for Producing the same, the said Means being also applicable in the Manufacture of other Goods.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 4th Apr., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 1st Jan., 1897-Accepted, 27th Mar., 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Dress Bindings or Trimmings, and in Means for
Producing the same, the said Means being also applicable in
the Manufacture of other Goods.
I THOMAS ECKERSLEY PERKINS, of 20 London Road, Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Engineer and Sewing Machine Maker, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
My said invention relates to an improved manufacture of dress bindings or
trimmings and to the means for producing the same the latter being applicable for
other purposes. The dress binding which is at present most in vogue and which was
devised as a substitute for the ordinary velvet binding, consists of a coiled chenille
or other fibres sewn on a woollen or other braid or other fabric the doubled braid or
fabric being stitched to the dress so as to show the coiled chenille edging in the
manner well known to those in the trade. Up till now it has been found impossible
to sew the coiled chenille to the braid by a lock stitch, and the usual mode is by a
chain stitch as produced by an embroidery machine of the Bonnaz principle.
In sewing by the chain stitch, the chenille is carried on a reel above or below
the needle bar and is drawn down and wound round each loop stitch as it is drawn
up through the braid by the crotchet shaped needle forming what is known as a
lacing or cording effect.
The result of this chain stitching is that if an end becomes loose, or if the
binding is cut across, the stitches become unravelled and the chenille or lacing
easily strips off. This is a constant source of annoyance to wearers. According
to my invention I am enabled to get rid of these disadvantages and to produce a
dress binding and a cording or lacing effect which will not unravel and this I effect
by sewing on the chenille or fibres by a lock stitch so that the cutting of the
binding or the loosening of the ends has no ill effects. The mechanism which I
use to bring about this result may be varied but the following is an arrangement
which I at present find effective. I use any ordinary lock stitch needle and binding
shuttle beneath, the thread being led to the needle from a reel carried on the frame.
Above the presser foot I arrange a hollow revolving sleeve which surrounds the
needle bar, needle and thread, a sufficient space being left between the interior of
the sleeve and the needle bar not to interfere with the thread as it passes through
the hollow sleeve on its way to the needle eye. The said hollow sleeve is carried in
a suitable bearing and is driven by any suitable arrangement of gearing from the
main shaft of the machine, so as to revolve say once for each up and down stroke of
the needle this revolving round the top thread forming the exact effect of lacing or
cording. The revolving sleeve carries an arm on which is mounted a reel filled with
chenille or other yarns. As the needle rises, drawing up the thread, the chenille
reel is carried round, coiling the chenille round and upon the needle thread which thus
lies in the centre of the coil. The needle then descends and is locked by the shuttle
pick beneath.
The chenille or yarns are thus as it were wound upon the top thread and lock-
stitched to the braid or fabric the stitches being invisible and the chenille presenting
an unbroken ridge or edging on the braid or fabric.
By speeding up the sleeve to correspond, more or less than one coil of the chenille

page_text: or yarns could be thrown round each stitch. The presser foot arm is cranked or bent
outwards so as to avoid the revolving chenille reel.
Although I have specially devised my improvements with reference to the
production of the aforesaid dress binding or trimming, nevertheless the mechanism
herein before referred to might be used for other purposes. For example it might
be used for lock-stitching cording upon fabrics or for laying silk or other fibres as
bindings, edgings or embroidery upon cloth.
For the Applicant,
E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
5 John Dalton Street, Manchester, Chartered Patent Agents.
Improvements in Dress Bindings or Trimmings, and in Means for
Producing the same, the said Means being also applicable in
the Manufacture of other Goods.
I THOMAS ECKERSLEY PERKINS, of 20 London Road, Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Engineer and Sewing Machine Maker, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
My said invention relates to an improved manufacture of dress bindings or
trimmings and to the means for producing the same the latter being applicable for
other purposes. The dress binding which is at present most in vogue and which
was devised as a substitute for the ordinary velvet binding consists of coiled chenille
or other fibres sewn on a woollen or other braid or fabric the doubled braid or
fabric being stitched to the dress so as to show the coiled chenille edging in the
manner well known to those in the trade. Up till now it has been found impossible
to sew the coiled chenille to the braid by a lock stitch and the usual mode is by a
chain stitch as produced by an embroidery machine of the Bonnaz principle.
In sewing by the chain stitch, the chenille is carried on a reel above or below the
needle bar and is drawn down and wound round each loop stitch as it is drawn up
through the braid by the crotchet shaped needle forming what is known as a lacing
or cording effect. The result of this chain stitching is that if an end becomes loose,
or if the binding is cut across, the stitches become unravelled and the chenille or
lacing easily strips off. This is a constant source of annoyance to wearers.
According to my invention I an enabled to get rid of these disadvantages and
to produce a dress binding and a cording or lacing effect which will not unravel and
this I effect by sewing on the chenille or fibres by a lock stitch so that the cutting
of the binding or the loosening of the ends has no ill effects.
To render my invention well understood I will now proceed more particularly to
describe the same reference being had to the annexed sheet of illustrative drawings.
To give a correct description of the trimming to the manufacture of which my
invention is directed I will in the first place refer to Fig. 1 which is a perspective
view of a piece of skirt trimming consisting of a strip of woollen braid a having
stitched to it a length of chenille b."
Fig. 2 shows the trimming in section and as applied to the foot c of a skirt the
braid being folded together and stitched to the skirt so as let the chenille edge project
beyond the foot of the skirt. As before stated the object of my invention is to
stitch the chenille b or its substitute to the braid by a lock stitch which will not
come loose or unravel if cut or disconnected. The apparatus by which I effect this
lock-stitching of the chenille to the braid is illustrated in Figs. 3 to 6.
Fig. 3 is a side view of the front of the arm of my improved lock stitching machine.

page_text: Fig. 4 is a front view at right angles to Fig. 3.
5 is a section of the hollow sleeve through which the thread is led.
Fig. 6 shows a modified form of presser plate.
Fig
I use an ordinary lock stitch needle d working in conjunction with any ordinary
revolving or reciprocating binding shuttle or hook e, the thread / being led to the
needle from a reel not appearing in the drawings. The needle bar g with the needle d
is worked in the ordinary manner, and surrounding the needle bar is a hollow sleeve h
(shown in section in Fig. 5). The sleeve & projects downward from a bracket i which
is secured by a screw to the foot of the needle bar box. The sleeve serves as a
bearing to carry a revolvable bevel wheel and boss k, which is kept on the sleeve by a
collar secured by screws to the foot of the sleeve. To the wheel boss k I secure an
arm which carries a reel m containing chenille cord coiled on. The bevel wheel k
gears with a similar wheel a on a short shaft n' which terminates in a wheel n' gearing
with another wheel o on a counter shaft o' which is driven by wheels o2 o² from the
main shaft of the machine. The shafts n' and o' are supported by a bracket p secured
to the arm of the machine. In the example illustrated the gearing is so proportioned
as to cause the wheel and boss k with the supported chenille reel m to revolve once
round the needle for each up and down movement of the same. In addition to the
reel the boss k carries a guide q with an eye at the foot through which the chenille is
led from the reel to the needle. The thread fis led through the usual tension and
other appliances and passes through the interior of the hollow sleeve & i.e. between the
interior of the sleeve and the needle bar, to the eye in the foot of the needle. The
needle in conjunction with the shuttle e performs the usual and well known lock
stitch. The thread passing as it does through the sleeve is free from any obstruction
from the surrounding parts and enables the lock stitch to be properly performed. The
reel m with the chenille is carried round by the rotating boss k and the chenille as it
enters beneath the presser foot r is lock-stitched to the braid, which is fed by the usual
feed, the braid with the stitched or coiled chenille being preferably directed beneath.
the presser foot by a guiding channel. This channels serves to protect the chenille
from the pressure of the presser foot r, and is represented in dotted lines in the plan
view Fig. 6. As the work proceeds the portion of the thread extending between the
needle eye and the presser foot r is served with a turn or coil of the chenille which is
being carried round it by the revolution of the wheel hoss k. When the needle
descends through the braid the shuttle thread beneath locks the thread' each lock
stitch being thus served with a turn of the chenille. The consequence is that in the
complete article the coiled-on chenille cord lies along the braid and is secured thereto
by a lock-stitched thread cord so that even if the trimming is cut or the stitching
broken at any point in the length, the rest of the stitching does not become disengaged
and unravelled. It will be observed that the arm carrying the presser foot r
is bent so as to allow of the rotation of the chenille reel m round the needle bar. The
braid a is directed to the presser foot by means of a bent metal guide a¹ secured to the
bed of the machine. By altering the proportions of the indicated gearing so as to
speed up the wheel boss k more than one coil or turn of the chenille could be thrown
round each stitch.
g
Instead of carrying the presser foot on a cranked or bent arm as shown, I might
disconnect it altogether from the needle bar head and pivot it to the sole of the
machine as indicated in Fig. 6 of the drawings. The presser would then consist of a
plate pivotted to the sole by a pivot t and held down by a spring u so as to press on
the material. To raise and hold the presser plate r clear of the work when required
I provide a lever catch v the head of which can be turned beneath a part of the
presser plate as indicated in dotted lines, thereby raising and upholding the presser
plate. I do not confine myself to the exact details of mechanism hereinbefore described
and shown. For example instead of the hollow sleeve h being a fixture as described
it might carry the beve! wheel and revolve in a fixed outer bearing the reel being
supported and carried by the said revolving sleeve. Neither do I confine myself to
the indicated arrangement of gearing for driving the wheel boss k or the revolving
sleeve when substituted for the fixed sleeve.

page_text: Although I have specially devised my improvements with reference to the production
of the aforesaid dress binding or trimming, nevertheless the mechanism hereinbefore
referred to might be used for other purposes. For example it might be used for
lock-stitching cording upon fabrics or for laying silk or other fibres as bindings,
cdgings or embroidery upon cloth.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is.
1) The general arrangement, construction and combination of apparatus for
lock-stitching chenille upon dress bindings and for other purposes substantially as
described and shown.
2) In apparatus for lock-stitching chenille upon dress bindings the fixed or revolving
sleeve surrounding the needle bar concentrically and permitting the passage of the
thread to the needle substantially as described and shown.
Dated this 1st day of Dece
For the Applicant,
E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
5 John Dalton Street, Manchester, Chartered Patent Agents.