Improvements in or relating to the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Aug., 1897--Accepted, 25th Sept., 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and
Slippers.
We, H. SEXTON AND SONS, LIMITED, and JESSE HENRY SEXTON, of St. Edmunds
Mills, Norwich, in the County of Norfolk, Boot and Shoe Manufacturers, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in boots, shoes, and slippers,-all of which
are hereinafter included in the term "shoe," which are manufactured on the turn-
shoe or sew-round method; and its object is to provide a ready and effective method
of attaching to an ordinary turn-shoe or sew-round a rubber or outer sole,-which is
sewn by means of a linen, flax, hemp, cotton or like thread or cord,-to a leather sole
after the lasting operation has taken place. Hitherto it has been customary to make
this class of shoe with an inner sole (with or without a middle sole) which are either
sewn together from the inside, or an inner sole and welt sewn from the outside with
the result that the shoe is not only stiff and unyielding, but also heavy. By.
manufacturing shoes according to this invention a cheaper, lighter, and more flexible
shoe is produced.
In the drawings hereunto annexed we have shown our invention applied to a ladies'
shoe with a single button instep strap, but we distinctly wish it to be understood
that our invention may be applied to boots and slippers as well.
Fig. 1. is an elevation of a shoe manufactured according to this invention.
Figs. 2 and 3 are respectively a plan looking at the bottom and a transverse
section on line x x Fig. 1.
Like parts in all the views are marked with similar letters of reference.
A is the upper. B the leather or through sole. b the channel in the leather or
through sole. C the rubber or outer sole. D the heel thickening piece. E the
strip of leather forming the welt, and F the line of sewing by which the welt, the
leather or through, and rubber or outer soles are united together.
The upper A after being cut out and sewn or otherwise fixed together is then
placed upon the last in the usual manner for turn shoe or sew-round work, that is,
with its outer surface to the last, and it may or may not be held thereon by any
desired number of tacks, tingles, or the like.
The leather or through sole B, after having been channelled at b, is placed upon
the sole of the last. The edges of the upper A are then lasted and sewn thereon
all round in the channel b, in the ordinary way and manuer.
The shoe is then ready for turning.
After the shoe has been turned the edges of the leather or through sole B project
beyond the upper A. The thickening piece D at the heel may then be affixed
thereto, say by cement, solution, tacks, or the like, and after the strip of leather E,
forming the welt, has been placed in position on the upper surface of the leather or
through sole B, the shoe is ready to receive the rubber or outer sole C.
The rubber or outer sole C may be made of any desired thickness and flexibility,
and extends from the toe to the heel of the shoe, as shown at Figs. 1 and 2,

page_text: The rubber or outer sole C is then fixed,-say for instance by suitable cement or
solution, in position on the outer face of the leather or through sole B, and also of
the heel thickening piece D.
After this has been done the strip E, forming the welt, and the rubber or outer
sole C are sewn all round from the outside of the shoe-along the dotted line F,
Fig. 2. respectively to the upper and lower surfaces of the leather or through sole B.
The same stitches, which run at an angle-as at F, Fig. 1.-and which may, if
desired, be similar to or to represent fair stitching,-
-are thus made to secure the
three part E, B, C, together.
By this means the rubber or outer sole C may be sewn to the leather or through
sole after the shoe has been turned, and according to the tension on the sewing
thread will the stitches F be drawn more or less into and below the outer surface of
the rubber or outer sole C.
The shoe is then ready for finishing in the usual manner of shoes with soles of
rubber, or rubber and leather combined.
If desired the thickening piece D, and also the strip E forming the welt-one or
both may be dispensed with altogether, and the rubber or outer sole C would
then be secured directly to the leather or through sole B, with or without the strip E
forming the welt.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed; we declare that what we
claim is
1. A boot, shoe, or slipper manufactured on the turn shoe or sew round method'
in which the lasted upper is first sewn to a channelled leather or through sole, then
turned, and after the turning operation has taken place, a rubber or outer sole,-
with or without a heel thickening piece and strip forming the welt, is fixed in
position by cement or solution and then finally sewn from the outside of the shoe to
the leather or through sole, all arranged and combined substantially as herein set
forth and illustrated:
2. In a boot, shoe, or slipper manufactured on the turn shoe or sew round method,
the combination with the lasted, sewn, and turned upper, such as A, and leather or
through sole, such as B, of a rubber or outer sole, such as C; cemented or solutioned
to the leather or through sole B and sewn thereto all round the edges thereof which
project beyond the upper A substantially as herein set forth and illustrated.
Dated the Twenty-third day of August 1897.
H. SEXTON AND SONS LIMITED.
JESSE HENRY SEXTON.
By W. Fairburn-Hart,
Agent..