Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Nov., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 5th Aug., 1890-Accepted, 1st Nov., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We, EDWARD Buss, of St. Gall, and ADOLPH SAURER, of Arbon, both in the
Republic of Switzerland, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:
The present invention relates to an improved machine for producing embroidery
work similar to that obtained with the Heilmann multi-needle machine by the action
of double pointed needles which are passed completely through the fabric fiom one
side to the other alternately and work with threads of limited length which become
shorter as the work proceeds, and the object of the present invention is to effect a
large increase in the productive capacity of the mechanism.
The embroidery frame on which the material to be embroidered is stretched may be
suspended, balanced and guided in the usual manner and be operated by a pantograph
arrangement worked by hand for example. The needle holders or pincers have a
very short stroke of only about one twentieth of the thread lengths and are carried
upon slides in place of the usual carriages. The parts directly engaged in the
production of the embroidery work are as follows. To every needle holder there is
provided a special instrument or hook acting in concert therewith which engages
with the thread between the needle and the fabric for the purpose of pulling the
thread through the latter. This instrument or hook has a sharp taper or conical
point which is turned towards the fabric being at the same time inclined to the
direction of the motion of the needle and may be provided with a projection if
required in order to prevent the loop of thread from slipping along the shank.
A tension device in the form of a horizontal rod or rail is provided for each row of
needle holders on opposite sides of the material or fabric. Each tension rail is
carried by arms on a rock shaft arranged parallel with the fabric.
The combinations of mechanism hereinafter described are devised for the purpose
of enabling the embroidery work to be performed by the series of evolutions which
we will now briefly refer to. Just before or immediately on the completion of the
outward travel of the needle holders (i.e. their retiring from the fabric) the hooks
make a slight upward movement so that the thread slips under their points. The
books being now in the highest position the tension rail applies a certain degree of
tension to the thread which is slacked again when the hook has descended to a
certain extent. To admit of the downward movement of the hook on one side of the
fabric the corresponding hook on the other side requires to move upwards at the
same rate and to finally release the thread when the descending hook is about to
complete its descent whereupon the tension rail acts on the thread and causes the
stitch to be pulled tight. To enable the needle holders to operate the hooks after
releasing the thread have to be moved out of the way and the tension rail preceding
its needle holder returns to the original position. The simultaneous movement of the
needle holders now takes place so that the needle with a length of thread attached is
drawn out through the fabric say to the left hand. The original position of the
parts is now restored and the same action is repeated on the other side of the fabric.
In order to obtain a satisfactory working of the machine there must be such a
concerted action of the parts that the threads are neither overstrained nor allowed to
become too slack. The threads becoming shorter as the work proceeds the amplitude
of the movement of the hooks,must be correspondingly diminished and this
necessarily complex.action is partly obtained by means of three combinations of
motions namely―
The long movement,

page_text: a) The said long movement consists in the simultaneous ascent and descent
respectively of the rows of hooks on different sides of the fabric to a gradually
decreasing distance the top or highest point of the stroke remaining at the same
level whilst the level to which the hooks-descend continually becomes higher.
The correcting movement is as follows.
6) The hook when at the bottom of its stroke is required during the outward
movement of the holders to move upwards for a short distance in order to, let back
a certain length of thread sufficient to allow for the movement of the needle on the
other side of the fabric.
c) Two books working together do not require to simply move equally in opposite
directions as in the aforesaid long motion but must also partake of a small supple-
.mentary or correcting motion. Thus the hook that is uppermost for the time being
for example at the commencement of its descent first has to move a certain distance
before it can act upon the thread and consequently as it continues its descent it
would pull down less thread than the corresponding hook on the other side would
let back in the same time if both hooks were to travel at the same rate. The
releasing of the thread is performed under similar conditions.
The clearing movement also consists of two motions as follows.
(d) After completing the long upward movement and after quitting the thread the
row of hooks must descend from its highest position to such a distance as to stand
clear of the needle holders as the latter perform their inward movement.
e) After the outward movement of the needle holders which takes place
immediately after the said inward movement the books reascend to their highest
position passing the horizontal lengths of thread which are somewhat slack at this
moment and slip over and under the points of the hooks. The progressive reduction
of the amplitude of the long movement or throw of the hooks is obtained by means
of automatic mechanism hereinafter described the length of thread consumed in each
stitch being measured by the aid of the tension devices and the reduction of the
throw being accurately regulated in accordance with this measurement.
In order to cause all the hooks in a machine with two or more superposed series
of needles to move in similar and parallel paths, separate mechanism may be provided
for each series of hooks being arranged as follows. A suitable number of similar
and parallel levers are fixed at suitable intervals on a horizontal rock shaft and each
lever carries at its free end a pin or stud forming the centre of oscillation of a
toothed quadrant provided with an arm. Pinions fixed on a shaft supported by and
moving with the levers gear with these quadrants. One of the levers with the corre-
sponding quadrant is arranged outside the side frame. The other levers and
quadrants are situated between the side frames. The lever arms on the inside
quadrants are attached at their free extremities to a rod or bar arranged parallel to
the rock shaft and carrying the hooks and the outside. quadrants are connected to the
motor mechanism.
In like manner to the levers on the rock shaft the arms on the quadrants always
remain in the same parallel position relatively to each other being controlled by
pinions. It is sufficient to guide one point in the quadrant outside the side frame by
means of a pin coinciding with the middle of the hook for example and working in
'a curved channel or cam groove of suitable profile in order to cause all the hooks in
the same series to move in a path corresponding to the said cam groove.
rows of hooks one above the other can be coupled together and controlled by one
cam groove.
Lines or
The long movement of the hooks is controlled by the following mechanism. A
slotted cross head provided with a horizontal arm is caused to move parallel with
itself by the action of a lever and radius link and receives a reciprocating motion
from a crank pin working in a block sliding in the slotted head.
The said lever which is thereby caused to oscillate is provided at its upper end
with a curved slot or cam groove in which engage two rollers on a pendent slotted
lever. The said slot or cam groove is of such form that when the roller engages
with an inclined part of the groove the levers move together but when the levers are

page_text: at or near the extreme positions at either end of the stroke the two rollers engage
with a part of the said slot or cam groove whereby the slotted lever is caused to
dwell or remain stationary for a certain period. An outer frame firmly attached to
the bed or foundation plate and also secured by strong connections to the sido
frame of the machine forms a guide for a vertical sliding shaft or central support.
Rigidly connected to this central support there is a guide upon which slides a
horizontal rack.
The pendent slotted lever herein before referred to is provided with a straight
radial slot in which works a block connected to the horizontal rack which is thereby
caused to partake of the reciprocating motion of the said lever. A horizontal shaft
carrying two spur wheels passes through the central support the outer and smaller
spur wheel gearing with the horizontal rack and the inner and larger wheel gearing
with two vertical racks which actuate the hooks. These racks are caused to
reciprocate moving vertically in opposite directions and the relation between their
movement and that of the horizontal rack is governed by the relation between the
two spur wheels. By elevating the central support to a higher level by means of
the mechanism hereinafter described the horizontal rack is raised and at the same
time its travel is shortened as the sliding block connected to this rack and working in
the slot or groove of the pendent slotted lever is moved nearer to the centre of
oscillation of the said lever. The angular motion of the slotted lever and the
proportion between the two spur wheels are so regulated that the highest point of
the reciprocating motion of the two racks always remains at the same place
irrespective of the length of the stroke.
A vertical screwed shaft works in an internally screwed boss or projection on the
frame and as the work proceeds this shaft is slowly rotated by a pawl and ratchet
mechanism hereinafter described whereby the central support which at the commence-
ment of the work is down in the lowest position is gradually raised in proportion as
the embroidering threads are shortened. The motion of the two vertical racks is
thereby modified the stroke being shortened without changing the level to which they
rise.
By the aid of a connecting rod the motion of the vertical racks is transmitted to
the outside quadrants and to the series of hooks.
The correction movement is obtained by means of mechanism next hereinafter
described. When the central support apart from its regular ascent is temporarily
caused to move upwards the hooks are also elevated. If the slotted lever is then
just in the vertical or middle position the spur wheels are prevented from rotating so that
the two vertical racks ascend to an equal extent but if the slotted lever assumes an
inclined position the horizontal rack is pushed in a horizontal direction' so that a
rotary motion is imparted to the spur wheels. The ascent of the lowermost vertical
rack is thereby increased and that of the uppermost rack correspondingly diminished.
When the central support is moved downwards the same effect is produced. The
central support is utilised in order to obtain the required supplementary or correcting
motions in addition to the long or principal movement of the hooks.
With this object the central support is caused to partake independently of its
gradual upward motion, of small upward and downward or vertical movements which
are gradually modified as the work proceeds.
Various mechanical arrangements can be employed in order to obtain this effect
for example a cam on a shaft describing half or preferably one complete revolution
between the successive changes of needles is employed being in the form of a
number of thin or narrow parallel cams rigidly connected together the curves
of each cam merging into those of the next and being somewhat different there-
from.
A pair of lever arms oscillating on an axis parallel to the cam axis carry a cam roller
capable of lateral motion on its shaft and also carry a rotating screwed shaft parallel
to the roller shaft. A nut working on this screwed shaft carries two arms embracing
the cam roller in proportion as the threads are shortened is gradually moved laterally
so as to be acted on by different profiles of the can. The screwed shaft is driven.by.

page_text: a toothed wheel or pinion gearing with a vertically moving rack connected to the
vertically sliding shaft or central support hereinbefore described so that the roller is
displaced laterally at the same time as the said support gradually ascends. The cam
itself to be displaced laterally relatively to the roller instead of shifting the roller
relatively to the cam. The roller receives from the cam movements which produce
the supplementary motions (correction movement) the central support and it is now
necessary to explain how these movements of the cam roller are communicated to the
said support. This may be accomplished by means of an arm on the boss of the lever
arms carrying the cam roller connected by a link to an arm on a horizontal shaft
provided with an arm connected to the footstep bearing of the vertical screwed shaft.
The screwed shaft and the central support connected therewith consequently partake
of all the movements of the cam roller and transmit these movements to the hooks.
By these means the threads are never allowed either to hang loose or to be over-
strained at any stage of the work. It is evident that other equivalent mechanical
devices may be employed for obtaining the same result for example in place of one
wide cam with different profiles at different parts of its width two discs or cams can
be employed one having a profile similar to the profile on one side of the wide cam
and the other corresponding to the profile on the other side. Two cam rollers bearing
on these two cams impart a vibrating movement to an intermediate bar working in
suitable guides and connected at its extremities to the said cam rollers so that one
extremity is influenced by the profile of one can disc and the other extremity by the
other cam disc. An arm connected to the levers operating the vertical screw being
caused to travel along this vibrating bar is consequently caused to pass through
all the intermediate stages of movement in the same way as the cam roller in the
preceding arrangement passes through the intermediate profiles of the wide cam.
The clearing movement hereinbefore referred to cannot be obtained by means of a
vertical motion of the central support, and an arrangement is employed according to
which each vertical rack carries a stud or pin on which oscillates a bell crank lever
and the connecting rods which operate the quadrants are not directly connected to the
vertical racks but to the horizontal arms of the said bell crank levers. On another
pin fixed to each rack there is centered a locking device or disc with projections. A
vertical guide rail fixed to the frame of the machine and having its upper part bent
into a horizontal position engages with the projections on the locking disc so as to
prevent the disc from rotating when the rack is in its lowest or intermediate positions
but when the rack ascends to its highest position the locking disc is caused to move
on its centre to a certain limited extent by the action of the horizontal part of the
guide rail. On a lateral projection on the upper or vertical arm of the bell crank
lever centered on the rack there is a device or set screw which bears against a pro-
jection on the rack and prevents the lever from moving in one direction. This lever
arm is further provided with a projection which during the greater part of the move-
ment bears against the inner surface of the annular rim or projection on the locking
disc but is liberated when the rack is in its highest position. A horizontal rod
sliding longitudinally in suitable guides carries two forks or pairs of pendent arms
of unequal length and at the moment when one of the vertical racks approaches its
highest position is moved so as to present one of the forks in such a position that a
pin or roller on the upper arm of the bell crank lever engages between the legs of the
fork. The horizontal rod is then shifted longitudinally so as to move the upper arm
of the bell crank lever in the opposite direction and the other arm of the bell crank
lever being connected to the toothed quadrants as bereinbefore explained this move-
ment of the said lever pulls down the corresponding series of hooks to such a distance
as will clear or remove them from the path of the needle holders. After the needle
holders have performed their evolutions passing the needle through the fabric the
horizontal rod moves back or in the opposite direction thereby restoring the hooks
to the position which they previously occupied. Directly or just before the pin
on the bell crank lever leaves the fork the lever arm reengages with the locking
dise and is thereby retained in the same position relatively to the rack during the
remainder of the motion of the latter. The reciprocating longitudinal motion is

page_text: imparted to the horizontal rod carrying the forks by means of rock shafts and levers
receiving motion from a cam disc which may describe one and a half revolutions to
every change of needles being so arranged as to alternately produce a movement to
the left followed by a longer dwell and a movement to the right followed by a still
longer dwell.
In this case every alternate movement of the rod to the left for example may take
place at a time when both vertical racks have moved to such a distance that the two
bell crank levers which they carry are out of reach of the corresponding forks and
places the left hand fork in position to engage with the pin on the left hand bell
crank lever which remains so engaged during the following period consisting of a
movement to the right, a dwell, and a movement to the left.
The needle holder slide consists of supports or rails supporting the pincers or needle
holders being connected to tubes or sleeves sliding on stationary bars or guides fixed
by a foot or plate to the transverse support or bearer.
It is necessary to provide such motor mechanism for the needle holder slides as will
remove as far as possible all risk of a yielding or springing action in the parts acting
on the sliding tubes or sleeves. Each foot or plate carrying the guido bars is firmly
connected to a stout vertical pin forming the centre of oscillation of a bell
crank lever one arm of which is connected by a link or a sliding block to the
needle slide whilst the other receives motion from a connecting rod.
The connecting rods working the needle holder slides receive motion from arms on
vertical rock shafts which may be coupled together and have motion transmitted to
them by a cam on a horizontal shaft.
The arms on the vertical shafts may be provided with a sliding catch or bolt capable
of engaging with a corresponding recess in loose arms on the same shafts the said
loose arms being connected to the cam. During the embroidering it is unnecessary
to engage and disengage the bolt in case the needle slides are worked by a cam which
makes one revolution at each passage or exchange of the needles but by disengaging
and reengaging the bolt at each stitch it is possible to employ a cam which describes
from two or three revolutions to each passage of the needles and this is found to be
more convenient in practice.
Before the commencement of the first revolution a short dwell of the cam is employed
in coupling the loose arm to the fixed arm. The needle slides which are now at the
outer extremity of their stroke then travel inwards or towards the fabric remaining
stationary for a period and then moving outwards. The short dwell which now takes
place is employed for disconnecting the lever arms.
The slide and loose arms then travel forth and back twice without acting on the
fixed arms or needle slides. Each bolt is provided with a projection which engages
with a recess in a fixed part of the frame. When the fixed arms are disconnected
from the loose arms the projections on their bolts engage with these recesses so that
the vertical rock shafts and the needle slides remain stationary during two
revolutions of the cam. A convenient arrangement for working the bolts consists
in providing a cam or eccentric which makes one revolution at each passage of the
needles.
The jaws of the needle holders can be opened and closed in the usual manner by,
means of eccentric shafts in connection with any suitable combination of levers
controlled by a cam for example.
The lower tension bars caused to move in unison with the upper bars (when two or
more superposed series of needles are employed) by means of connecting rods are
provided with pendent arms connected to levers which by the action of a spring are
retained in contact with the periphery of a cam rotating continuously with a second
smaller can on the same shaft. Suitable springs such as torsion rods extending from
one side of the machine to the other are employed to press two short supplementary
levers against the periphery of the second cam. The first or larger cam is provided
with two depressions and the small cam has but one depression being in the same
radius as the smaller of the two depressions in the large cam. In connection with
the levers of the second cam there are projections provided with set screws on a level

page_text: or in the same plane as the levers of the first or larger cam. When the small
depression in the large cam is presented to the roller on either of the levers connected
to the tension devices or rails acting on the threads only the lever that is opposite to
the depression can yield to the action of the spring and move so as to cause the
tension rail to act at the commencement of a stitch. On the other hand when both
of the two depressions in coinciding radii of the two cams coincide with the rollers on
two corresponding levers the lever of the small cam is likewise acted on by its spring.
In this case two springs acting in concert act with their combined or accumulated
force upon the corresponding tension rail. The force exerted by the combined
operation of the springs can be regulated by hand as the work proceeds.
Shortly before the commencement of a stitch the needles being on one side of the
fabric the tension rail on the other side acts on the thread with a weak spring pressure
and just before the completion of the stitch the rail on the. same side as the needles
acts on the thread for a second time with a strong spring pressure.
In a machine with several superposed series of needles all the tension rails in the
machine corresponding to the several series of needles act in concert or in the same
manner.
In order to obtain the automatic regulating of the stroke of the hooks the vertical
screw shaft hereinbefore referred to as being rotated by means of a ratchet wheel is
connected by a longitudinally sliding sleeve or coupling with a short shaft so that the
latter rotates with the screw shaft but does not partake of the vertical motion connected
with the correction movement herein before described.
On this short shaft is keyed a ratchet wheel to which an intermittent rotary motion
is imparted by a pawl and which is prevented from rotating in the opposite direction
by a suitable retaining pawl. The pin of the driving pawl is fixed in an arm centered
loosely on the short shaft or axis of the ratchet wheel and caused to oscillato by an
arm on a vertical rock shaft. On a rotating shaft there is a disc inclined or set at an
angle to the axis of rotation and a sliding block or wiper on the vertical rock shaft
bears against the side of this disc and causes the said shaft to reciprocate.
A combination of levers enables the pawl to be thrown out of gear with the ratchet
teeth when required. On the arın working the pawl is fixed the pin or pivot of a
small two armed lever one extremity of which is connected by a link to an arm on
the pawl. The other extremity is curved in an arc of a circle and the concave part
bears against a small catch on the centre of oscillation of the pawl lever. In one
position of the two armed lever the pawl is held out of contact with the teeth of the
ratchet wheel until the main lever arm has moved through a sufficiently wide angle
to displace the two armed lever to such an extent as to cause a notch or recess in its
curved extremity to pass before the small catch hereinbefore referred to.
By means of an arm on the rock shaft a lever on a horizontal rock shaft and a
swivel or coupling the catch is connected to or acted on by this horizontal shaft which
by the action of a suitable brake is retardel when an impulse is communicated to it.
This shaft also carries an arm provided with a T shaped extremity. The rock shafts of
the tension rails or short shafts connected therewith carry arms provided with
adjustable projections which act on the projection or T shaped extremity of the arm
on the horizontal rock shaft.
When the lever arm on the centre of the ratchet wheel moves in the direction
in which the pawl slips over the ratchet teeth the arm on the pawl comes into
contact with a fixed stop which causes the pawl to swing outwards or away from
the teeth of the ratchet wheel. This movement is scarcely completed when one
of the levers on the rock shafts of the tension rails comes in contact with the arm
on the horizontal rock shaft and pushes the catch under the curved part of the
small two armed lever. The arm carrying the pawl now moving in the opposite
direction the pawl remains open or out of gear until a recess in the curved arm
of the two armed lever has passed the catch which is held stationary by the action
of the brake. At the same moment as this takes place the pawl engages with the
ratchet teeth and the ratchet wheel is rotated. On the next backstroke of the
pawl lever the extremity of the two armed lever is presented against the side of

page_text: the catch and drives the latter before it until the arm on the horizontal rock shaft
again approaches the arms on the rock shafts of the tension rails the ratchet wheel
being rotated through a wider angle in proportion as the arms and the tension
rails connected therewith are moved to a smaller distance. Of the two strokes or
motions towards one another made by the tension rails during a single stitch that
motion may be utilised which is performed by the tension rail on the same side
as the needles towards the end of the stitch. This motion which draws the thread
tight being generally obtained by a powerful action of the spring more force is
available for moving the parts.
According to another method the stroke or motion of the tension rail which is not
on the same side as the needles but is for the time being on the opposite side of the
fabric and is produced by the action of the weaker spring is utilised.
This
In this case the oscillations of the vertical rock shaft are regulated in such a manner
that the arm on the horizontal shaft acts directly on the arms on the rock shafts of
the tension rails when the tension rail on the opposite side to that on which the
needles are situated makes the stroke at the commencement of the stitch.
being on the average somewhat the shorter of the two strokes the arm is combined
with a small uncoupling device in order that the second and longer stroke at the end
of the stitch may not influence the position of the arm and of the catch. The arın
is consequently made loose upon the shaft and its boss is provided with a groove
enabling a tappet or finger to displace the lever laterally or in the direction of the
axis of the shaft. Thus at one time it is caused to act on the extremity of a lever
fixed on the same shaft and at another time is rendered incapable of acting on this
lever arm.
After each upward movement the loose lever returns to its original
position by the action of its own weight or of a spring. The tappet or finger being
caused to move by a suitable cam acts in such a manner that when the tension rail on
the same side as the needles moves out the loose lever is disconnected from the fixed
lever so that the movement of the rail does not take effect on the shaft but during
the movement of the other tension rail commencing at the end of the stitch the loose
lever engages with the fixed arm and rocks the shaft. With this arrangement the
movement represents the actual length of thread used so that the ratchet wheel
without being affected by the stronger or weaker action of the tension device is
caused to rotate at a rate which is strictly regulated by the quantity of thread
taken up.
It may occur when working with extra short stitches, that the catch is pushed so
far under the end of the two armed lever pivoted on the lever working the ratchet
wheel that the catch is not operated and the pawl does not engage with the ratchet at
the next stroke. In order that on the return of the arm on the horizontal shaft the
catch on the vertical shaft may be certain to engage with the end of the two armed
lever the latter is provided with a tooth or projection which ensures its engagement
with the said catch.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We, EDWARD Buss of St. Gall and ADOLPH SAURER of Arbon both in the Republic
of Switzerland do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
The present invention relates to an improved machine for producing embroidery
work similar to that obtained with the Heilmann multi-needle machine. Thus the
machine is employed. in the manufacture of embroidery of the kind obtained by the
action of double pointed needles which are passed completely through the fabric from

page_text: one side to the other alternately and work or embroider with threads of limited length
which become shorter as the work proceeds.
In like manner to the Heilmann embroidering machine the present invention relates
to the production of embroidery by the simultaneous action of a number of needles and
its object is to effect a large increase in the productive capacity of the mechanism
compared to the means heretofore employed.
The embroidery frame on which the material to be embroidered is stretched being
suspended balanced and guided with a parallel motion in the usual manner does not
present any special features of novelty and may as represented by way of example in
Figure 10 be operated by a pantograph arrangement worked by hand in the ordinary
way. The needle holders or pincers are likewise of known construction but they have
a very short stroke of only about one twentieth of the thread lengths and are carried
upon suitable slides in place of the usual carriages.
To facilitate the explanation some of the parts directly engaged in the production of
the embroidery work will now be described in the first place.
To every needle holder there is provided a special instrument or hook which engages
with the thread as hereinafter explained. This instrument may be in the form of a
hook with a sharp taper or conical point c Figures 1, 2 and 3 which is turned towards
the fabric being at the same time inclined to the direction of motion of the needle and
to the plane of the needles and is provided with a projection (g) if required in order to
prevent the loop of thread from slipping up the shank in certain positions which the
hook may have to assume.
In a corresponding manner to the needle holders the hooks are arranged in a
parallel position and like the former preferably in straight rows with suitable con-
nections so that for each holder there is a corresponding hook acting in concert
therewith. All the hooks in one row can be placed on one common bar by which they
are guided in similar parallel paths.
The tension device is another piece of mechanism which is directly concerned with
the production of the embroidery work there being one tension device in the form of
a horizontal rail for each row of needle holders on opposite sides of the material or
fabric. Each tension rail may consist of a suitable rocking shaft or rod arranged
near to and parallel with the surface of the fabric on a level somewhat beneath the
plane of the needles upon which shaft or rod there is fixed a series of similar parallel
levers the free ends of which are connected to a light rod or small tube extending the
entire length of the line of needles.
.f
The foregoing description of the parts directly concerned with the production of
the embroidery work and the part hereinafter headed Description of the Machine"
appear absolutely indispensable to make the description intelligible but at the same
time they relate in great measure to arrangements which are not entirely originated
by the present invention.
Explanation of the action. Figures 4. 5. 6 7. 8 and 9 show some of the most
important positions of the embroidering thread and of the devices immediately
concerned in the embroidery during the production of a single right or left side stitch.
In Figure 4 both needle holders and have travelled outwards and are in
the extreme outward position occupied in the work, holder is open, is closed.
The thread extends from the point where it is fastened in the fabric at a° under
the lower hook a and back to where it passes again through the fabric and
proceeds in a horizontal direction to the eye of the needle.
Just before or immediately on the completion of the outward travel of the
holders and the hook situated in the position b¹ commences a slight upward
movement in which its point c first pushes the thread to one side so that it (the
thread) finally slips under the point of the hook (Figure 2).
Whilst the hook is in its highest position the tension bar d¹ by making a short
outward motion (first motion) applies a moderate degree of tension to the thread in
order that the hook on its downward movement now commencing may be certain to
carry the thread with it directly. The point c now above the thread having descended
to a certain extent, the tension is taken off again the tension bar di being returned to

page_text: The clearing movement.
(a) The, long movement consists in the simultaneous ascent and descent respectively
of the rows of hooks on different sides of the fabric to a gradually decreasing distance
the top or highest point of the stroke remaining at the same level whilst the level to
which the hooks descend continually becomes higher.
The correcting movement is as follows:-
(b) The hook when at the bottom of its stroke is required during the outward
movement of the holders to move upwards for a short distance in order to let
back a certain length of thread sufficient to allow for the movement of the needle
on the other side of the fabric the hook for this purpose being caused to make a quick
upward movement to an extent equal to about half the said length (sce b Figure 9)..
(c) Two hooks working together do not require to simply move equally in
opposite directions as in the aforesaid long motion but must also partake in order
to keep the thread sufficiently slack of a small supplementary or correcting motion.
Thus the upper hook that is uppermost for the time being for example at the
commencement of its descent first moves a certain distance before it acts upon the
thread (Figure 4) and consequently as it continues its descent. it pulls down
less thread than the corresponding hook on the other side would let back in the
same time if both hooks were to travel at the same rate. The releasing of the
thread is performed under similar conditions.
The clearing movement consists of 2 motions as follows:-
(d) After completing the long upward movement and after quitting the threads
the row of hooks descends from its highest position to such a distance as to stand
clear of the needle holders as the latter perform their inward movement.
(e) After the outward movement of the needle holders which takes place imme-
diately after the said inward movement the books.reascend to their highest-position
B

page_text: Under each row or line of needle holders there is provided a strong horizontal
bar or bearer E Figure 10 extending from one side frame A to the other A¹.
Parallel motion-In order to cause all the hooks in each row or series to move
in similar and parallel paths separate mechanism is provided for each series being
arranged as follows:-A number of similar and parallel levers D¹ (Figures 10
to 13) are fixed at suitable intervals on a shaft working in bearings in a
number of brackets attached to the bearer E. Each of these levers carries at its
free end a pin or stud forming the centre of oscillation of a toothed quadrant f
(Figures 11, 12 and 13) connected to the boss by one or more arms and formed
with a lever arm ƒ³.
Pinions fixed on a shaft (Figures 11 and 13)
parallel to supported by and moving with the lever arms D¹ are arranged to
gear with these quadrants. One of the levers D' with the corresponding quadrant
is arranged outside the side frame A'. The other levers and quadrants are situated
between or inside the side frames (Figures 10-13).
The lever arms f2 on the internal quadrants are attached at their free extremities
to a connecting rod or bar B₁ arranged parallel to the shaft and carrying the
hooks (Figure 13).
In like manner to the levers D the arms f' always remain in the same parallel
position relatively to each other being controlled by the action of the pinions f¹
gearing with the toothed quadrants f. The corresponding parts in all the quadrants
are consequently constrained to travel in parallel and similar paths consequently it is
sufficient to guide one point in the quadrant foutside the side frame A¹ by means of
a pin on the arm f2 carrying a roller (Figures 11 and 12) coinciding with the
middle of the hook for example in a curved channel or groove in order to cause all
the hooks in the same series to move in a path parallel with and similar to the centre
line of the said channel or groove.
A suitable form of path or guide channel is represented in Figure 11 at E.
Whilst the form of the inside quadrants has to be adapted to the transverse
bearer E the outside quadrants may be conveniently formed in accordance with the
greater strain that is put upon them. Lines or rows of hooks one above the other
can be coupled together the pin of the roller controlling the several lines being
.. attached to one connecting rod F common to all the rows of hooks.

page_text: Long movement-
The slotted crosshead F Figures 14 and 15 provided with a horizontal arm is
caused to move parallel with itself by the action of a lever L and radius link L' and
receives a reciprocating motion from a crank pin i working in a block sliding in the
slotted head F.
The lover L which is thereby caused to oscillate is provided at its upper end on
the side facing the side frame with a curved slot or cam groove in which engage two
rollers h² and h on a slotted lever K caused to oscillate on a pin by the action of
the lever L.
The said slot or cam groove is of such form that when the roller / engages with
the part 1 m and the roller h² with the part no the lever L and the slotted lever K
form or move together like two toothed quadrants but when the lever K is in the
extreme positions at either end of its stroke the two rollers work in the part m¹ n¹ m n
of the said slot or cam groove and prevent the lever K from moving. The motion of
the slotted lever K consequently differs from that of the lever Linasmuch as the
slotted lever is caused to dwell or remain stationary for a certain period at two
positions on each side of and at equal distances from the central position.
An outer frame H' (Figure 10) composed mainly of two vertical columns and
several horizontal connecting bars and which is firmly attached to the bed or
foundation plate and is also secured by strong connections H to the side frame A¹
of the machine forms a guide for the cylindrical central support J working in suitable
holes in the horizontal connecting bars 2 (Figures 14 and 15).
Rigidly connected to the central support J there is a horizontal guide J¹ upon
which slides a toothed rack H. The slotted lever K is provided on the side next to
the machine with a straight radial slot or groove in which works a sliding block 1°
attached to a pin on the rack H and transmitting the reciprocating motion of the
lever K to the said rack.
A horizontal shaft K' Figures 14 and 15 carrying two spur wheels N and M passes
through the central support J. The outer and smaller spur wheel N gears with the
horizontal rack H and the inner and larger wheel gears with the teeth of two long
vertical racks or slides G G (Figures 14 and 17) working in guides connected to
the columns or uprights of the outside frame. These racks are consequently caused
to reciprocate moving vertically in opposite directions and the relation between
their movement and that of the rack H corresponds to the relation between the
wheels N M.
By elevating the central support to a higher level by means of the mechanism
hereinafter described the centro of oscillation of both sides G G¹ is raised and at the
same time the stroke or amplitude of oscillation is shortened as the sliding block
connected to the rack H and working in the slot or groove of the slotted lever K
is moved nearer to the fulcrum or centre of oscillation of the said lever so that the
acting length of the lever is reduced. The angular motion or amplitude of oscillation
of the slotted lever and the proportion between the wheels M and N are so regulated
or chosen that a half stroke or half vertical motion of the vertical racks G G¹
decreases by so much as the centre of oscillation is raised or in other words is so
regulated that the highest point of the reciprocating motion of the two racks always
remains at the same place irrespective of the length of the stroke.
A screwed shaft O works in an internally screwed boss or projection ³ on the
middle bar or central support J. As the work proceeds this shaft is slowly rotated
by a ratchet wheel M' (Figures 14 and 27) in such a manner as to gradually raise
the central support which at the cominencement of the work is down in the lowest
position as indicated in Figure 14 in proportion as the embroidering threads are
used up or shortened. The motion of the two vertical racks G G is thereby
modified as above indicated (the stroke being shortened without changing the level
to which they rise).
The means employed for turning the ratchet wheel are hereinafter described.
The motion of the vertical racks GG is transmitted, by the aid of the connecting

page_text: rods Go Figures 11 and 17, in the first place to the rollers of the outside arms and
quadrants and thence to the series of hooks.
Correction movement-When the central support apart from its regular gradual
ascent is caused to move upwards to a certain extent the racks and the rows of hooks
are also elevated.
If the slotted lever K is then just in the vertical or middle position the
wheels N and M are prevented from rotating so that the two racks G G¹ ascend
to an equal extent with the central support J. When on the other hand the slotted
lever assumes a more or less inclined position the horizontal rack H is pushed during
the ascent to a certain extent laterally or in a horizontal direction so that it imparts
a rotary motion to the wheels M and N. The ascending motion of the lowermost
rack G¹ (or G) is thereby increased and that of the uppermost rack correspondingly
diminished. When the central support is moved downwards the two vertical
racks G G are depressed in exactly the same way. A raising or lowering of the
central support consequently invariably produces a corresponding raising or lowering
of the rows of hooks.
It will now be understood that the actual motion of the hooks necessary for correct
embroidering differs to some extent from the "long movement." The central support
is thus utilised in order to obtain the required modifications in the movement or in
other words to produce certain small correcting motions in addition to the "long
movement."
With this object the central support is caused to partake independently of its
gradual upward motion of small upward and downward or vertical movements which
are gradually modified as the work proceeds.
Various mechanical arrangements can be employed in order to obtain this effect.
A simple combination of mechanism suitable for the purpose is represented in
Figures 18 and 19.
A cam T is keyed on a shaft receiving a regular rotary motion from bevel
gear A B Figure 15 and describing half or preferably one complete revolution
between the successive changes of needles. This cam is in the form of a number of
thin or narrow parallel cams rigidly connected together the curves of each cam being
somewhat different from those of the adjacent cams or in other words is so formed
that a series of sections in planes at right angles to the axis of revolution present a
series of different profiles. For example if the surface of the cam at one end presents
the
profile q; q. 7. P. p. p. for example the surface at the other end has the profile
9' 22' P¹ p¹p' (Figure 19).
Between a pair of lever arms 12 forming part of a forked lever N¹ oscillating on an
axis there is fixed a round rod or shaft and parallel to it a screw k² capable of
rotation is provided. A nut m' on the latter is connected by two arms with a roller m²
capable of rotating on its shaft k¹.
This cam roller bears with a certain amount of pressure on the cam T and in
proportion as the threads are gradually shortened is progressively moved laterally by
the action of the screwed shaft k² so as to be acted on by different profiles of the
cam in succession. The screwed shaft 2 is driven by a toothed wheel or pinion n¹
gearing with a vertically moving rack f³ connected to the guide J¹ of the central
support so that the roller m² is displaced laterally at the same time as the said support
gradually ascends. A modified arrangement of this mechanism may consist in causing
the cam itself to be displaced laterally instead of shifting the roller and involves no
inaterial alteration in the principle.
The roller receives from the cam movements which are equal or proportionate to
the supplementary motions (correction movement) required to be made by the central
support and it is now necessary to explain how these movements of the cam roller
are communicated to the said support. The roller m² is selected for obtaining the
movement (with the cam) in order to reduce the friction and wear as much as
possible but it is evident that in place of the roller m² a fixed pin or a block or the
like may be employed for transmitting to the lever n³ the motion produced by the

page_text: cam.
In the form of the machine now under consideration the movements of the cam
roller m² are transmitted by the lever arm 2 (Figure 19) fixed on the forked lever
carrying the said cam roller and by a link p and an arm o' to a horizontal shaft i³.
This shaft also carries a lever arm³ connected by a hinge joint with the footstep
bearing of the vertical screwed shaft O.
A connection between the cam roller m² and the vertical screwed shaft is thus
established in such a manner that the screwed shaft and central support partake of
all the movements of the said roller. These movements are transmitted from the
support to the hooks in the manner indicated. With the aid of the cam T it is thus
rendered possible (independently of the paths of the hooks and the nature of the
correction movement required for the machine) to obtain the said correction
movement in such a manner that the threads in use are never allowed either to
hang too loosely or to be over strained at any stage of the work. It is evident that
other equivalent mechanical devices on the same principle as the cam may be employed
for obtaining the same result. For example an arrangement such as that illustrated
in Figures 20 and 21 may be employed. In this arrangement in place of one wide
cam T with different profiles at different parts of its width two discs or cams T¹ T² are.
employed one having a profile similar to the profile p¹g on one side of the wide cam
and the other corresponding to the profile p q on the other side. Two cam rollers m
bearing on these two cams impart a vibrating movement to an intermediate bar po
jointed to slides Z working in suitable guides and connected to the said cam rollers
so that one extremity of the bar is influenced by the profile of one cam dise and
the other extremity by the other cam disc. An arm P° connected to the levers
operating the vertical screw being caused to travel along this vibrating bar is
consequently caused to pass through all the intermediate stages of movement in the
same way as the cam roller in the preceding arrangement passes through the
intermediate profiles of the wide cam.
The clearing movement. When the slotted lever is in one of its two extreme
positions a vertical motion or ascent of the central support J is transmitted only to
the vertical rack (G) that is at the bottom of its stroke the other rack being at
the top of its stroke remaining stationary. The clearing movement (hereinbefore
referred to under d and e) which is to be performed by that row of hooks whose
vertical rack is near its highest position consequently cannot be obtained by means
of a vertical motion of the central support in a similar manner to the correction
movement.
In order to produce the clearing movement an arrangement such as that illustrated
in Figure 17 is employed which as illustrated is viewed from the back or more
correctly speaking from the interior of the machine.
Each vertical rack G G' carries a stud or pin m³ on which oscillates a bell crank
lever. The connecting rods Go which actuate the rollers Figure 11 and through
them the rows of hooks are not directly connected to the vertical racks G G¹ but are
jointed to the arms o³ of the said bell crank levers.
During the downward movement, during the dwell at the bottom of the stroke and
during the upward motion of the racks there is a rigid locking action or coupling
between the rack and the bell crank lever o³ which prevents the latter from moving
or oscillating during the period of time indicated, but during the dwell at the upper
end of the stroke of the rack the bell crank lever o³ is released so as to allow of the
oscillating motion connected with the clearing movement.
On a pin n fixed to each rack G and G there is centred a rotary locking disc r
which may be composed of a circular plate or disc with an annular rim or flange in
two parts the greater part of which is removed and a projection 2 on the lever arm på
bears against the inner surface of this rim.
A vertical guide rail Q¹ fixed to the frame of the machine and having its upper part
bent into a horizontal position engages between the two parts of the annular rim of
the locking disc in such a manner as to prevent the locking disc from rotating when
the rack is in its lowest or intermediate positions the lever arm being locked against

page_text: a projection . Now when the rack ascends to its highest position the locking disc
is caused to move on its centre to a certain limited extent owing to the rim or pro-
jection on its side being acted on by the horizontal part of the guide rail and releases
the lever o³.
A horizontal rod R sliding longitudinally in suitable guides carries two forks s s
or pairs of pendant arms of unequal length and at the moment when one of the vertical
racks approaches its highest position is moved so as to present one of the forks in
such a position that a pin 22 on the upper arm ¹ of the bell crank lever or a roller
thereon engages between the legs of the fork s or sl. The horizontal rod R being
thus connected to the lever arm is then moved in the direction of its axis thereby
moving the upper arm of the bell crank lever (which at this movement is released by
the locking disc) from right to left in the direction indicated by the arrow and the other
arm of the bell crank lever being connected to the toothed quadrants as hereinbefore
explained this movement of the said lever pulls down the corresponding series of
hooks to such a distance as will clear or remove them from the path of the needle
holders. After the needle holders have performed their evolutions, passing the needle
through the fabric the horizontal rod moves back or in the opposite direction thereby
returning to its original position and restoring the lever 70 and the hooks likewise
to the position which they previously occupied.
Directly or just before the pin on the bell crank lever leaves the fork the lever
arm reengages with the locking disc and is thereby retained in the same position
relatively to the rack during the downward and upward motion of the latter. For
imparting reciprocating longitudinal motion to the horizontal rod R the following
mechanism may be employed. The reciprocating longitudinal motion is imparted to
the horizontal rod R by means of a vertical shaft R carrying two levers S2 and S³
(Figure 15) working two connecting rods P P₁ the rod P being operated by a
sliding block S receiving motion from a cam disc S¹. The sliding block_carries
two pins provided with antifriction rollers which bear against the periphery of
the cam.
The cam S¹ between the two rollers on the slide is so formed that it imparts to the
slide and to the rod R a symmetrical or regular to and fro motion with dwells at each
end of the stroke. With this arrangement the cam describes one and a half revolutions
to every change of needles. Out of the to and fro movements of the rod R two
successive movements only are always utilised for producing the clearing motion the
third being without effect.
During this period occupied by the movement to the left, dwell, and movement to the
right the corresponding bell crank lever 03 Figure 17 (right hand) remains with its
pin and roller * engaged with the forks and receives therefrom a clearing motion for
the corresponding row of hooks. In this case the next movement of the rod R to the
left is without effect upon the bell crank lever lo³ as this movement takes place at a
time when both vertical racks have moved to such a distance that the two bell crank
levers which they carry are out of reach of the corresponding forks ss. This left hand
motion of the rod then places the fork s' in position to engage with the pin on the left
hand bell crank lever 03 and it remains so engaged during the following period
consisting of a movement to the right, a dwell, and a movement to the left.
Movement of the needle holder slides. These slides consist of rails U Figures 22, 23
supported by the needle holders tubes or sleeves V attached to the said rails and
sliding on fixed bars or guides u fixed by a foot or plate t¹ to the transverse support
or bearer E.
Each of the said guide bars being arranged at right angles to the surface of the
fabric is secured at both ends in two projections or lugs on the foot or plate t¹ fixed
on the bearer E. The sleeves V enclose the guide bars and act as a guide to the
rails U.
With the very short time allowed for each in or out stroke of the needles it is a
difficult matter to prevent all parts of the holders in a long row from projecting too
far or remaining behind the others especially at the moment of engaging with the

page_text: needles and it is therefore necessary above all to provide such motor mechanism for
the needle holder slides as will remove as far as possible all risk of a yielding or
springing action in the parts acting on the sliding tubes or sleeves.
This is accomplished by means of the arrangement next hereinafter described. Each
foot or plate carrying the guide bars is firmly connected to a stout vertical pin v
forming the centre of oscillation of a bell crank lever p* * one arm (7) of which
moves the sliding tube or sleeve V of the needle sliie whilst the other (p) receives
motion from a connecting rod T. In this case the connection between the lever
arm ? and the corresponding sleeve is obtained by means of a sliding block t
working on a pin on the end of the lever arm and sliding in a recess or short
transverse slot in the sleeve. The connection can also be made with the employment
of a link or connecting rod.
Arrangement. The arrangement of the several bell crank levers in a series is
preferably so combined firstly that all the arms p' as well as all the arms q* are parallel
to one another and also that the centres or axes of all the pins together with those
of the corresponding driving shafts V1 (or U¹) are situated in the same vertical
plane. By these means the pins of of all the bell crank lever arms can all be connected
together by one straight rod. The rod or bars T¹ can readily be made of such thick-
ness or rigidity by selecting a suitable form in section that the extremely small deviation
resulting from its stretching or contracting in the direction of its length is all that
can be attributed to it as regards its yielding.
This driving mechanism is consequently extremely well adapted to obviate all
yielding or springing of the parts.
The main connecting rods T" working each series of needle holder slides on one
side of the machine are jointed to the bell crank lever arms p* moving parallel with
the lever arms n' on the vertical driving shaft V₁. The same connection exists
between the connecting rods T on the other side of the machine and the lever arms m
on the driving shaft U'
Each shaft V and U₁ is further provided with a pair of lever arms namely a fixed
arm and a loose arm Figures 22 and 24 projecting from the shaft at about right
angles to the arms n³ m³ connected to the bell crank levers operating the needle holder
slides. The loose arms have a reciprocating or oscillating motion imparted to them
by connecting rods attached to a slide 1 worked by a cam S³ acting on a roller
connected to the slide. Each fixed arm * carries a sliding catch or bolt p³ ³ capable
of engaging with a corresponding recess in the loose arm so as to enable the latter to
be connected and disconnected with the fixed arm as required.
The uncoupling of the fixed lever is only necessary when the machine is stopped
and in this case enables the operator to move the needle slides backwards and forwards
by hand for certain operations such for example as piercing or cutting holes in the
cloth. For this purpose the shafts V1 U' are provided with suitable handles.
The means employed for inserting and withdrawing the bolts p³ ³ present no
peculiar features and may consist of any suitable combination of mechanism which
does not need special description here.
Opening and closing the jaws of the needle holders. This motion can be obtained
in the usual manner by means of eccentric shafts extending across the tails of the
holders. For this purpose it is simply necessary to provide the two extremities of
the shafts with lever arms in connection with any suitable combination of levers
controlled by a cam so as to partake of the requisite oscillating motion.
Movement of the tension devices:-
The lower tension shafts el e Figures 25 and 26 caused to move in unison with the
upper shafts e e² by means of connecting rods H are provided with pendent lever
arins connected by rods to levers Y and X which by the action of a spring Fo
are retained in contact with the periphery of a cam P rotating continuously with and
alongside of a second smaller rotating cam 02. Suitable springs such as torsion
rods LL³ extending from one side of the machine to the other are employed to press
two short pulling or supplementary levers ³ ³ against the periphery of the second
cam 02. The cai P2 is provided with two depressions at us and v* and the cam O²

page_text: has but one depression at w being in the same radius as the depression u in the first
cam. In connection with the levers and y³ there are projections * * carrying set
screws which are situated in the same plane as the long levers Y X'. It is evident
that when the small or shallow depression in the large cam P2 acts on the anti-
friction roller on either of the levers Y or X only the lever that is opposite to the
depression yields to the action of the spring and moves so as to cause the tension
bar or rail to act upon the thread. This action takes place as hereinbefore explained
at the commencement of a stitch. On the other hand when both of the large
depressions and in the two cams coincide with the rollers on two corresponding
levers YX or X Y³ the lever Y³ or X3 as well as the levers X' or Y is likewise
acted on by the strong spring L² or L³. In this case two springs acting in concert
act with their combined or accumulated force upon the lever Y* or X and cause the
corresponding tension bar d¹ or d² to act upon the thread. The force exerted by the
combined operation of the springs being regulated by hand as the work proceeds is
evidently to be only sufficient to draw the stitches tight without injuring the threads.
During the period occupied by one passage of the needles in making a single left or
right hand stitch each tension rail makes one stroke towards the other.
Shortly after the commencement of the stitch the tension rail on the opposite side to
the needles comes into operation with a weak spring pressure; shortly before
the completion of the stitch the tension rail upon the same side as the needles makes a
second stroke with a stronger spring pressure.
In a machine with several superposed series of needles all the tension rails in the
machine corresponding to the several series of needles act in the same manner.
In order to obtain the automatic regulating of the ascending stroke of the hooks
according to the consumption of the threads in the long movement hereinbefore.
referred to the arrangement next hereinafter described may be employed with advantage.
The vertical screw shaft O Figure 14 is connected by a longitudinally sliding sleeve
or coupling K2 with a short shaft W Figures 14 and 27 so that the latter rotates with
the screw shaft, but does not partake of its vertical motion viz.: the correction movement
hereinbefore described. On this short shaft W¹ is keyed a ratchet wheel M¹ to which
an intermittent rotary motion is imparted by a pawl w and which is prevented from
rotating in the opposite direction by a second pawl ¹. The pin of the driving pawl w
is fixed in an eye in an arm or lever U2 centred loosely on the short shaft W
arm U2 is caused to oscillate by a link or connecting rod vl and a lever arm Y² on a
vertical rock shaft V2. This shaft moves to and fro once for each simple stitch (left
or right handed). How this movement is produced is quite immaterial. The arrange-
ment illustrated in Figure 16 may be employed for example.
This
On the horizontal shaft Q there is a disc W2 inclined or set at an angle to
the axis of rotation and a sliding block or wiper u² bears against the side of this disc.
An arm won the vertical rock shaft V' is connected to this block or wiper by a
spherical or universal joint, a ball on the end of the arm being by the action of a
spring n³ retained in contact with a correspondingly formed socket in the block u².
By these means a rocking or oscillating motion is imparted to the vertical rock shaft
by means of the inclined disc W.
A lightly constructed combination of small levers enables the pawl to be held
out of gear against the stress of a spring w or prevented from engaging with the
ratchet teeth and also enables it to put it in gear therewith when required.
On the lever arm Y2 Figure 27 is fixed the pin or pivot of a light two armed
lever one extremity of which is connected by a link w² to an arm 2 on the
pawl. The other or free extremity of this lever is in the form of an are of a circle
and the concave part bears against a small catch on the axis or centre of
oscillation V. So long as it remains in this position the pawl w is held ont of
contact with the teeth of the ratchet wheel and cannot act on the latter until the
main lever arm Y has moved in the direction of the arrow through a sufficiently
wide angle to displace the two armed lever to such an extent as to cause an
edge on its curved extremity to pass away from the catch which remains
(stationary during this period.

page_text: The pawl drives the ratchet wheel from the moment it engages with the teeth
until the end of its stroke. The extent of the angular movement of the ratchet
wheel is consequently dependent on the time when the pawl engages with the
teeth and likewise upon the position occupied by the catch ³. This catch is pushed
to a greater or lesser extent under the circular surface on the two armed lever a
at the proper time by the action of one or the other of the tension rails according
to the extent to which the tension rails move outwards. The angular displacement
of the ratchet wheel M at each left or right handed stitch is consequently regu-
lated according to the extent of the given movement of the tension rail the said
displacement of the ratchet wheel being greater in proportion as the catch v³ is
pushed for a shorter distance under the curve of the two arm lever x or in pro-
portion as the movement of the tension rail is smaller. The tension rail moves to
a shorter distance according as more thread is consumed and the angular displace-
ment of the ratchet wheel M is proportionately greater.
With suitably selected relations between the means for transmitting motion the
arrangement hereinbefore described is consequently well adapted for diminishing
the ascent or amplitude af the long movement according to the consumption of the
thread. The catch is prevented from being thrown over too far by the action
of a suitable brake not shewn in the drawing.
When the lever arm U2 and lever Y2 move in the direction opposite to that indicated
by the arrows the front edge of the two armed lever which had previously slipped
over the catch is placed before this catch in such a manner that it carries the catch
with it to the end of its stroke. Before the pawl lever U arrives at the end of its stroke
the small lever v2 comes in contact with a stop a fixed on the frame of the machine.
The pawi w is thereby disengaged from the teeth of the ratchet wheel and at the same
time the two armed lever is oscillated in such a manner as to enable the catch v³ to
return under the curved surface of the lever .. This occurs precisely in time for the
next movement of the tension rail to act upon the catch ³. The transmission of the
movement of the tension rail to the catch presents little difficulty and may be effected
in various ways.
A suitable arrangement for this purpose is next hereinafter described.
By means of a lever arm w³ the lever y Figures 27, 28 and 30 and a coupling al
perforated in horizontal and vertical directions the catch is connected to the shaft X
which by the action of the brake hereinbefore referred to is prevented from moving or
going too far when a suddenly stopping motion is communicated to it.
The shaft also carries a lever Y (Figures 28 and 29) provided with a long pro-
jection or tooth which may be provisionally considered as fixed on the shaft. The
shafts Z and Z are either the prolonged shafts of the upper tension rails or short shafts
so connected to the said tension shafts that each of them describes the movements of
one tension shaft. Levers XY provided with adjustable projections and secured on
the shafts Z Z act on the projection on the lever y and thus rotate the shaft X and
catch through a certain angle.
:
This occurs always at that outstroke of the corresponding tension rail which takes
place at the commencement of the stitch under the weak spring pressure. This being
on the average somewhat the shorter of the two strokes it is necessary to connect
the lever with a small uncoupling device in order that the second and longer stroke
at the end of the stitch may not influence the position of the lever arm w³ (Figure 27)
and of the catch v³..
The lever Y is consequently made loose upon the shaft X and its boss is provided
with a groove d' enabling a tappet or finger y² to displace the lever laterally or in the
direction of the axis of the shaft. Thus at one time it is placed under the extremity X*
of a lever X fixed on the same shaft and at another time is placed at the side of this
lever. In the former case the lever Y when moving upwards carries the lever X withı
it in the second case it does not do so. After each upward movement the lever Y
returns to its original position by the action of its own weight or of a spring not shewn
in the drawing.
The tappet or finger y being caused to move by a cam not shewn in the drawing

page_text: acts in such a manner that when the tension rail on the same side as the needles move
outwards the lever Y is situated at the side of the arm X2 so that this movement of the
rail does not take effect on the shaft but during the movement of the other tension rail
taking place at the commencement of the stitch the lever Y is situated under the
arm and rocks it. With this arrangement the movement of the tension rail not on
the same side as the needles at the beginning of the stitch indicates the actual length of
the last stitch or the length of thread actually used so that the ratchet wheel M¹ without
being affected by the stronger or weaker action of the tension device is caused to rotate
to an extent proportionate to the quantity of thread last taken up. The tension rail on
the same side as the needles makes on the other hand at the ends of the stitches move-
ments differing considerably in their amplitude being dependent on the force of the
pull being small for weak and greater for strong pulls.
It may occur, when working with extra small stitches that the catch ³ is pushed so
far under the end of the two armed lever a that the pawl we does not engage with the
ratchet. In order that, in this case, on the return of the lever Y2 moving in the
opposite direction to the arrow the catch may be certain to be pushed back, and
the lever again caused to approach the projections and e (Figures 28 and 29) the
curved end of the two armed lever a is provided with a tooth or projection 20
(Figure 27) which engages with the catch ³."
In order to render clearly intelligible the claims setting forth the general features
which constitute the essence of the invention the following definitions are given of
certain terms which are employed in the claims.
"Controlling devices are those parts which cooperate to produce both the "long
movement" and the "correcting movement" being referred to in the body of the
Specification as vertical toothed racks but which may be worked with equal advantage
by means of a suitable combination of levers in place of by the spur wheel M in which
case they would not be in the form of toothed racks.
"Hook driving devices" is a term applied to that part of the machine which
participates in the motion of both controlling devices which it drives and which are
described in the body of the Specification as a spur wheel M on a shaft K although the
said hook driving devices may with equal advantage be replaced by other mechanical
parts such for example as a two armed lever with a shaft connected thereto.
The term *
cam disc combination" is herein after employed to designate an
arrangement in which the correction movement is produced by two cam discs and
wherein the movements produced by two parts (such as mº) are combined by an inter-
mediate member (such as pº) as hereinbefore explained with reference to Figures 20
and 21 for example.
The parts which directly receive the motion from the cam drum or the combined
motion from the cam discs are termed "touching devices."
"Driving cam" is employed indifferently to indicate either the cam drum or the
cam disc combination.
The shortening device" is that part of the machine which directly receives the
gradual or step by step advancing motion employed for shortening the amplitude of
the long movement; the ratchet wheel M¹ Figure 27 for example may be employed
for producing this motion.
"
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the, same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is :-
1. For producing a to and fro movement of the slotted lever K about its centre of
oscillation in such a manner that the said lever remains stationary for a certain time
at each of its two extreme positions, a driving mechanism in which a crank driven
driving lever L swinging to and fro on an axis is connected with the slotted lever in
such a manner by means of a fit or suitable curved part or slot that the movements as
well as the required stoppages or "dwells" of the slotted lever are produced by the
action of the said curved part.

page_text: m¹ n¹
72 n
surfaces m and no of which produce the motion whilst the curves
the "dwell" in combination with the slotted lever K with its two rollers
Figure 14.
produce
and /*
3. In a driving mechanism according to claim 1 a parallel motion in which one
radius link or lever forms the driving lever of the slotted lever and the connecting
bar of the two radius links is rigidly connected to a slotted head receiving motion
from a crank pin.
4. For the purpose of causing the rows of hooks to move with a uniform and
parallel motion throughout their entire length a driving or controlling mechanism
provided in duplicate for each row or series of needles characterised by the connection
of a number of parallel levers of equal length rigidly fixed on a shaft C working in bearings
in the machine frame, with an equal number of levers arranged parallel to one another
and provided with toothed quadrants in such a manner that each lever fixed on the
shaft C forms with the corresponding quadrant a link and all the toothed quadrants
gear with pinions or toothed wheels which are fixed on a common second shaft ("
(working in bearings carried by the lever arms) and ensure the parallel position of the
quadrant levers.
5. The toothed quadrant lever ƒƒ³, carrying the hook bar or rail B¹ and carried by
the lever D', in combination with the transverse support E in such a manner that the
freely supported toothed quadrant fis enabled to enter an opening in the transverse
support.
6. For the purpose of producing the "correcting movement" and the "clearing
movement" independently or separately the combination of the hook driving devices
on the one hand with such controlling devices as cooperate to produce the "correcting
movement" in addition to the "long movement" and are coupled by intermediate
parts (such as 03 Figure 17) which during the drawing of the threads (from one
side of the material to the other) are rigidly connected or coupled with the con-
trolling devices but are disconnected from the latter during the upper "dwell" of a
controlling device.
7. For the purpose of producing the change of the "correcting movement" corre-
sponding to the gradual shortening of the thread and necessary for accurate embroidering,
the combination of a hook driving device with a cam drum or a cam disc combination
with suitable intermediate parts in such a manner that the hook driving device in
addition to its slow progressive motion also receives from the cam drum or cam
disc combination a reciprocating and gradually changing motion repeated at
every stitch.
8. In order to adapt the changeable correcting movement as accurately as possible
to the requirements of a perfect embroidery work, a cam drum whose successive
profiles in planes perpendicular to its axis gradually change in combination with a
roller or other touching device brought successively in contact with different profiles
of the cam drum as the work progresses in such a manner that the roller or touching
device transmits its varying movement received from the cam drum through suitable
intermediate parts to the rows of hooks.
9. For the successive diminution of the rise or amplitude of the "long movement
the combination of the hook driving devices and a nut on the one hand with a screw
connected therewith on the other hand the latter making therewith in the direction
of its axis (length) the correcting movement recurring at each stitch and by
successive rotations on its axis producing the slowly advancing motion of the hook
driving devices.
10. For the purpose of causing the touching parts during the gradual shortening
of the thread to gradually traverse the different profiles of the can drum or the
different intermediate positions between two cam discs, the shortening device with
suitable intermediate parts combined with the touching parts in such a manner that
the shortening device correspondingly to its own movement produces a gradually

page_text: progressing movement of the touching devices in the direction of the axis of the
driving cam, or the shortening device with suitable intermediate parts combined
with the driving cam in such a manner that the movement of the said shortening
device produces a corresponding gradual movement of the driving cam in the direction
of the axis.
11. The driving cam with touching device and suitable lever action in combination
with the screw
with the object of changing the to and fro movement of the
touching devices produced by the driving cam into a similar axial movement of
the screw:.
12. For the purpose of producing the clearing movement, a reciprocating rod
provided with two forks which alternately engages by means of its forks with the
released intermediate part (such as 1 0³) of a controlling device and imparts to the
latter the needful to and fro or reciprocating movement.
13. For producing the movement of the rod with the two forks a cam disc working
between two rollers and describing one and a half revolutions to each stitch in com-
bination with suitable intermediate parts which transmit the movement of the two
rollers to the fork carrying rod R.
14. For the purpose of releasing the intermediate parts 1 0³ from and coupling the
same with the controlling devices a vertical guide rail (such as Q Figure 17) having
'the upper part bent at an angle in combination with a rotary locking disc so that the
guide.rail produces the rotation of the locking disc.
15. For the purpose of imparting to the shortening devices (and also indirectly to
the hook driving devices) the gradual progressive movement by which the amplitude
of the "long movement" is diminished or shortened, in such a manner that the
decreased ascent (diminution of the amplitude) takes place solely in proportion to the
consumption of thread and independently of the stronger or weaker tension of
the thread (as the stitch is pulled tight), a ratchet motion with a disengaging arrange-
ment so arranged that the position of a small catch which serves to prevent the
main pawl from acting on the shortening device (ratchet wheel) is controlled in
accordance with the amount of shortening by the outstroke of the tension device
which is performed under a weak unchanging spring pressure at the time when the
hooks engage with the threads and that on the other hand a disengaging device such
for example as y² renders the catch independent of the outstroke of the tension
bars produced under variable spring pressure at the time when the stitch is pulled
tight.".
16. A driving mechanism for the needle holders consisting essentially-
(a) Of a series of parallel bell crank levers provided in duplicate for each row of
needles and each of which is connected by one arm with a common pull and
push rod T and by the other arm by connecting rods or sliding blocks with
sliding tubes or slides V carrying the needle holder bars.
(b) Of two vertical shafts U₁ and V₁ connected together by a pull and push
rod and two levers. A receiving motion from one or two cam discs and which
transimit motion to the pull and push rods T¹ of the several rows or series of
needles.
17. With the object of enabling the needle slides to be worked by hand a disengaging
arrangement consisting essentially of the levers fixed on the shafts U¹ and Vand
provided with bolts which during the working of the machine are coupled with the
loose driving levers kt.
18. The general arrangements and combinations of parts constituting the improve-
ments in embroidering machines substantially as herein before described with reference
to the accompanying drawings.
J. H. JOHNSON & Co.,
Agents.