Improvements in the Manufacture and Production of Knitted Fabrics, and in the Apparatus employed therein.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Mar., 1893-Accepted, 24th June; 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture and Production of Knitted Fabrics,
and in the Apparatus employed therein.
I JAMES YATE JOHNSON of No. 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of
Middlesex Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this invention (which has
been communicated to me from abroad by Zéphyrin Lecaisne of 4 Rue Mayran
Paris in the Republic of France Manufacturer) and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention relates more particularly to improvements in the manufacture and
production of knitted fabrics in circular machines of the class described in the
Specification annexed to Letters Patent granted to my foreign correspondent and
dated 5th May 1892 No. 8539 but may be employed in combination with other
knitting machines whether circular or rectilinear in which hinged or bearded needles
are employed.
These improvements enable different kinds of fabric to be produced in one and
the same machine as hereinafter explained.
In the machine described in the Specification annexed to the said Patent
No. 8539 the two concentric annular rows or series of needles being moved by
proportionately similar cams, act in the same way in the interior as on the exterior
and taking hold of the thread at the same points produce a fabric the front and
back of which are alike as regards colour as well as regards texture.
By means of the present invention it is rendered possible to obtain (1) reversible
fabrics or fabrics with two fronts or faces that is to say fabrics in which the colour
and if required the material and texture are different on opposite sides and
(2) fabrics with a ribbed or worked (embossed) front and a plain back or a back
ribbed or worked or fashioned in the same way as the front.
And in order that the said invention may be fully understood I shall now proceed
more particularly to describe the same and for that purpose shall refer to the
several figures on the annexed sheets of drawings the same letters of reference
indicating corresponding parts in all the figures.
Figures 1 to 7 of the accompanying drawings represent the relative positions of
the needles in the different stages of their working as hereinafter explained.
Figure 8 is a diagram representing in plan the developement of the cams for
working a reversible fabric or a fabric with two fronts or faces and shews in dotted
lines the positions occupied by the needles.
Figure 9 similarly illustrates the cams and the positions of the needles for
obtaining a fabric fashioned or presenting a pattern on one side only.
Figure 10 represents in section a rotary selecting cam hereinafter described the
section being taken in the plane of the axis of rotation.
Figure 11 is a diagram representing the developement of the cams and positions
of the needles for making a pocketed fabric hereinafter described.
Figure 12 is a similar diagram shewing the cams and positions of the needles for
ornamenting the fabric on one side.
Figure 13 is a diagram shewing the cams and positions of the needles for making
a fabric with double loops for attachment to the ornaments formed by the parts
represented in Figure 12.
Figure 14 is a diagram representing the cams and positions of the needles for
obtaining the same effect as with the parts represented in Figure 12 the form and
position of a portion of the cams being modified as hereinafter explained.
1. The manufacture of a fabric with two fronts or faces.
The principle of this improved manufacture of a fabric with two different fronts
consists in attaching to each double loop which, with the weft continues to form the

page_text: main body of the fabric, one or more plain or single loops which owing to their
position are visible on one side only of the fabric. In order to obtain this result
the operation is conducted as next hereinafter described.
Let it be assumed that the two series or rows of needles operating in the same
way have both engaged with the same thread but that on the other hand one thread
can be engaged with one series of the two only in case this series is the only one to
present its hooks at the back of the thread guide or distributer carrying this thread.
Special forms of cams are employed to produce the requisite movements at the
proper times as represented in Figure 8. The distribution of the straight thread
and the raising of the needles being effected in the first place by means of
cams A A' and a thread guide or distributer I constructed and situated in the same
way as in the machine described in the Specification No. 853992 hereinbefore
referred to, the needles indicated at a and a' are brought into the position repre-
sented in Figure 3 by the action of two cams C and E on the transverse line 1.
The thread supplied by the guide or distributer J is engaged by the needles a
and a and this thread consequently forms double loops. The cam É continuing up
to the transverse line 2 lowers the needles a' to the position represented in Fig. 4
in which their hooks have passed beyond the distribution line and their beards or
latches have been turned down or closed by the loops previously formed. The
cam C leaving the needles a in the same position of the line 1 on the transverse
line 3 the distributer K is placed in this space the thread of the said distributer
being engaged by the needles a only. The cams D and F continuing to lower the
needles until the loop is completely formed (Figure 1) the double loop is obtained
formed by the thread from the distributer J and subsequently on the needles a is
added the thread from the distributer K which thread is looped upon this row of
needles at the same time as the thread from the distributer J.
In order to cause the double loop to disappear from the side or face, which
requires to be formed by plain or single loops only, it is simply necessary to cause
another single loop to pass through the double loop previously coupled with a
single loop on the series a. The crossing of this loop covers the connection of the
double loop. To obtain this second single loop the cams G and H are caused to
produce the complete evolution or movement necessary for forming a new loop upon
the series or row of needles a only. The thread of the distributer L forming a new
loop upon the front or series a this completes the covering or concealment of the
preceding double loop. By suitably modifying the relative forms of the cams
either the inner or outer series of needles may be employed as the first series.
2. The manufacture of a fabric worked with longitudinal or diagonal ribs or
other designs with different threads either of the same kind and of the same colour
or of different kinds and colours (Fig. 9).
This result is obtained by the addition of a rotary cam M (Fig. 9) which makes
a selection from all the needles which are placed in the same plane. This cam M
is composed of a disc to which a rotary motion is imparted which causes it to
acquire a circumferential speed, proportionate to its travel around the machine at
the level on which it comes in contact with the tails of the needles. This rotary
motion may be obtained either directly by the aid of a circular rack (not shewn in
the drawings) in connection with the driving wheel or by the grooves in which the
needles themselves slide or by any other suitable mechanical arrangement capable
of producing the required relative movements of the cams. Upon its lower side
this disc is cut away at the periphery so as to form a groove or recess as indicated
at b Fig. 9 sufficient to prevent the disc from coming in contact with the tails of the
needles. At its circumference the disc is provided with plates or pallets d each of
which is capable of raising a corresponding needle and thereby effecting the
required selection.
When this selecting device is required to act on one only of the two sides of the
fabric being arranged as represented in Fig. 9 the cams A' B' H' have the same
form and position on the other side as in the original arrangement of the machine.
- Upon the side on which the selection is to be effected a cam N raises the tails of

page_text: the needles up to the level of the highest point of the solid central part of the cam
disc M. At this point when a tail is encountered by one of the plates d on the said
cam M the latter further raises this tail and causes it to pass above the cam O.
On the other hand when the tail of the needle does not encounter one of the said
plates it remains below the upper point o of the cam O which consequently draws
down the needle.
The cam O causing this lowering to take place at the same time as the cam H¹
acts in the same way on the needles on the other side all the needles a that were not
raised by the action of the selecting cam M forming with the corresponding
needles a double loops with the thread distributed on the transverse line 4
(Figure 9). The moveable cam P simply serves to regulate the length of the
loops. The needles raised by the rotary selecting cam and under which the cam O
has passed remain elevated and being subsequently lowered by the cam Q form
with a thread distributed on the transverse line 5 by the thread distributer at K
single loops which are connected with the previously formed double loops.
66
Wherever the thread from the distributer K is not engaged with the needles a
owing to the latter being already lowered this thread remains lying straight or
floating" between the two rows of loops and is covered by the first double loops
which are formed over it. In this way wherever the needles have not been raised
by the plates on the selecting cam M this last thread is placed in the interior of the
fabric in the same way as the thread from the distributer I.
By changing the action of this device in relation to the selection of the needles
it is possible to obtain a great variety of different ornaments formed either by
raised or roughened surfaces, or by different colours, presented at the parts where the
selection has caused the needles to engage with the thread from the distributer K.
It is evident that the operation hereinbefore described with regard to one row of
loops that is to say one side of the fabric can be performed in like manner on the
other side, either at the same time or in succession by placing upon this other side,
either opposite or farther back for example, a similar device provided with a
similar selecting cam carrying pallets or plates arranged in accordance with the
effect to be produced in the work.
3. The manufacture of a pocketed fabric, that is to say, a fabric composed
alternately of two fabrics formed by single loops and a single fabric formed by
double loops connecting together the two single loop fabrics (Fig. 11).
By actuating the needles a by means of the cams A. M. N. O. P placed as
represented in Figure 11 and leaving the needles a' in the position of rest being
the position represented in Fig. 5 single loops are formed with the thread from the
distributer J upon the side worked by the needles a with the needles which have
not been raised by the pallets or plates on the cam M. Leaving the needles a on
the level to which they are elevated by the selecting cam M the needles a' are
raised in the next place by the cam B'. The needles a¹ thus elevated assume the
position represented in Fig. 2 and the needles a' not so elevated assume the position
indicated in Fig. 5. Both series of needles being then lowered at once by the
cams H and H single loops are formed with the thread from the distributer L
upon the needles a' wherever the needles a have been lowered by the cams O and P
and double loops are formed wherever the needles a previously elevated by the
selecting cam M are lowered by the cam H only that is to say simultaneously with
the needles a'. By these means the thread from the distributer J is caused to
form single loops on the side a wherever the needles a have been lowered by the
cams OP and is laid in a straight line over the shanks of the needles remaining
elevated. These needles being subsequently lowered by the cam H after engaging
with the thread from the distributer L escaping under the thread from the
distributer J which lies straight along the upper sides, then bind this thread in the
interior of the fabric at all those places where it has not formed a loop.
4. The manufacture of other special variations or varieties of fabric by changing
the position and direction of the rotary selecting cam M (Fig. 12).
The mode of selection hereinbefore described enables the needles on the same

page_text: side to be lowered by different cams only but they are necessarily all raised by one
and the same cam N (Figs. 9 and 11) and caused to escape from their preceding
loops. By working as next hereinafter described a complete evolution or movement
is obtained for the formation of new loops upon certain of the needles and
completely neutralising or holding out of action the other needles on the same side.
The passage of the distributer I of the straight thread being ensured by the
cams R and A' the cam S raises the tails of the needles a but without causing
their beards or pallets to be withdrawn from the preceding loops (Fig. 6 represents
this position of the needles). The tails of the needles when encountered by the
plates on the cam M are depressed below the point of the cam T and thus resume
their position of rest (Figure 1) without causing the needles to accomplish any
actual work. On the other hand when raised by the cam T and lowered by the
cam H they perform the evolution or movement required to form single loops with
the thread from the distributor J.
By bringing the required number of these devices into action around the machine
in succession and thereby raising different needles in the proper order and placing
different threads on each distributor such as J a fabric with a variety of decorative
designs can be formed on this side.
By placing similar devices such as the cams M and S opposite to one another on
each side and providing the two rotary or selecting cams controlling the needles a
and a with plates in proportion to the effects which are to be obtained the thread
from the distributor J forms single loops on the needles a and on the needles a¹
alternately.
The same pair of selecting devices each raising on its respective side the needles
put out of action by the preceding couple then forms a second fabric with single
loops crossing with the first each time that the thread passes from a to a¹ and
vice versa.
By placing the device (Fig. 12) upon one side (needles a) only a fabric with
single loops only is formed on this side and the different threads employed in its
forination are "Hoated" in the interior at all those places at which they have
not been engaged with the needles. By causing the several devices (Fig. 12)
to be followed by another device (Fig. 13) for forming double loops which
connecting with the single loops on the worked or pattern surface at the same time
bind down all the floats in the interior or body of the fabric.
The device referred to is constituted as follows:-
The two cams A and A¹ ensure the passage of the distributer I. The cam U
raises the needles a without causing their pallets or beards to escape from the
loops (Figure 7). The cam B' opposite or on the other side raises the needles a¹
to the full height to which they are raised in ordinary working. The two
cams H and H₁ then by lowering the two series of needles form with the
thread from the distributer L double loops which upon the side a are coupled
with the preceding single loops these loops not having been released owing to the
action of the cam U.
The position and direction of rotation of the cam M the shapes of the cams S
and T may be modified as represented in Figure 14 when the dimensions of the
machine admit of this arrangement. In this case a cam V brings the tails of the
needles up to the highest point of the solid central part of the cam M. At this
point if the tail of the needle encounters one of the plates on the cam M it is
raised sufficiently to enable it to pass above the point of the cam X otherwise
it remains below this point and the needle is not raised.
The action beyond this point is effected by the aid of the cams X and H which
operate in the same way as the cams T and H represented in Figure 12.
The rotary cam M which forms an important part of the improvements herein-
before described may be combined with other machines in which bearded or hinged
needles are employed its function consisting in enabling the needles which are
required to act to be selected from the other needles placed in the same plane and
throwing the other needles out of action,

page_text: It is evident that the position of the two series of needles hereinbefore described
and represented in the drawings in which both series are inclined at the same
angle is not absolutely necessary although it is believed to be the most convenient
and practical arrangement. For example the needles a may be horizontal and the
needles a' vertical in which case the several thread distributers simply require to
be inclined or so arranged that each thread is distributed in the same position
relatively to the needles. In this case the two series of needles are actuated by a
combination of cylindrical and flat or annular cam surfaces corresponding with the
positions of the needles. This arrangement in no way modifies the relative positions
assumed by the needles a and a¹ in performing the required evolutions the action of
the corresponding cams upon the said needles being exactly the same as that of the
cams in the arrangement herein before described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a knitting machine of the class described in the Specification annexed to
Letters Patent No. 8539" the combination of cams herein before described with
reference to Fig. 8 for obtaining a fabric with two fronts or faces as hereinbefore
set forth.
2. The manufacture of knitted fabrics in a machine provided with hinged or
bearded needles arranged vertically obliquely or horizontally in combination with
a rotary cam or cams (such as the cam M) having the effect of either raising or
lowering the tails of the needles so as to effect the selection of the said needles in
accordance with the form of the fabric to be manufactured substantially as herein-
before described.
3. As new articles of manufacture the fabrics that can be obtained by the
methods of working herein before described and numbered 1. 2. 3 and 4.
Dated this 28th day of March 1902
J. H. JOHNSON & Co.,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.