Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 27th June, 1888
Specification Accepted, 17th Aug.,
1888
A communication from abroad by ANNA MANWARRING MOORE, of Evanston,
County of Cook, State of Illinois, United States of America, Spinster.
[, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON F.C.S. M.I.M.E. of the Agency for Foreign
Patent Solicitors 6, Lord Street, Liverpool & 6, Bank Street Manchester both in
the County of Lancaster & 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex, Civil
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to an improvement in sewing machine attachments for
working button-holes, and is particularly applicable to button-hole attachments in
which the operative mechanism of the attachment is primarily actuated from the
needle-bar of the sewing machine, and the cloth moved relatively to the needle by
means of a cloth-clamp, which during operation accomplishes the following distinctive
movements, to wit: a succession of vibratory or limited laterally reciprocating
impulses for permitting the production of the overedge stitch ; longitudinal
reciprocating movement coincident with the length of the proposed button-hole for
the purpose of permitting the stitching to be made from end to end of the same,
and a change movement or lateral shift of operative position at the end of each
longitudinal stroke in order to change the stitching from one to the other of the two
longitudinal side edges of the button-hole which after the requisite stitching has been
effected is completed by cutting through the work a slit along a line between the two
rows of stitching, in preference to first cutting the slit and afterwards stitching along
the same.
In a button-hole attachment characterized by this invention, the vibratory action of
the cloth-clamp, and its lateral shift or change movement are respectively derived
from one and the other of a couple of intermittingly rotary cams which impart the
said necessary actions to the cloth-clamp through the medium of reciprocating
connections between the cloth-clamp and the cams. The extent of vibratory motion

page_text: on the part of the cloth-clamp is regulated by shifting the position of the fulcrum of
a lever which is comprised in the connection between the cloth-clamp and one of the
cams, and in like manner the extent of lateral shift or change movement on the part
of the cloth clamp is effected by shifting the position of the fulcrum of a lover which
is comprised in the connections between the cloth-clamp and the cam from which the
change movement is effected.
To effect the step by step feed motion of the cloth-clamp it is connected by a
pitinan with a wrist-pin upon a rotary head which has an intermittingly rotary action,
so as to reciprocate the cloth-clamp with a step by step movement.
The rotary head is actuated by a vibratory clutch driver which when moved one
way engages and turns the head, but which, during its automatically effected reverse
movement releases its hold upon the head.
The clutch-driver is provided with a vibratory clutch lever, and in connection
therowith is employed an adjustable stop, which can be set to limit the extent of
vibration on the part of the clutch lover, and hence limit the extent of movement
made by the cloth-clamp at each step.
Tho clutch-lover is operated from the main operating lover that is adapted to
connect with the needle bur of a sewing machine, and said main operating lever
carries a stud or roller which engages and rides upon the clutch lover so as to avoid
jars and pounding.
In connection with the rotary head, which operates the pitman, is provided a
rotary cam, which acts upon the stop that limits the extent of vibration on the part
of the clutch lever, said cam serving to vary at intervals the position of the stop so
that when the pitman is between the dead centres, the stop shall lessen the extent of
vibratory movement on the part of the clutch-lever, while on the other hand when
the pitman is passing the dead centres a lengthen up of the vibratory movement on
the part of the clutch lever shall be permitted, thersby compensating for the loss of
motion when the pitman is passing the dead contres and securing uniformity in the
stitching.
The rotary head from which the cloth-elamp is reciprocated, and the cam from
which the change movement is effected, are both arranged upon one axle, but
separated by one of a couple of hearings in which the axle is mounted, in which way
greater steadiness of action is ensured.
The main operating lever which is adapted for connection with the needle har of a
sowing machine is connected with and operates an oscillatory pawl-plate which latter
carries a pawl arranged to engage a ratchet upon the rotary cam from which the
vibratory action of the cloth-clamp is effected, in which way an adjustment of the
pawl with reference to its required Intitude of action may be made regardless of
the extent of throw or vibratory movement on the part of the main operating lever.
The two cams are held against back slip by a friction brake, and as a special feature
of construction in the feed device, the clutch driver consists of a vibratory lever
pivoted on a bearing that is arranged to slide about the head from which the cloth-
clamp is reciprocated, the pivoted end of said lovor being adapted to bind upon tho
head when the lever is swung one way, but to release the head when the fever is
swung in an opposite direction.
The more prominent objects of the foregoing maiters are to provide novel and
improved means for effecting the vibratory action and change movement of the cloth-
clamp while permitting the free longitudinal reciprocation of the same: to control
both the extent of vibration and the extent of shift or change movement on the part
of the cloth-clamp in a simple, reliable and efficient manner; to provide improved
means for readily and accurately rogulating the food action by which the distance
between the stitching is determined; to provide simple, reliable, and efficient means
whereby the motion of a pitman employed for reciprocating the cloth-clamp shall with
cortainty be rendered uniform throughout its entire oporation; to operate a clutch
driver employed in the feed movement from a lever that is actuated from the needle-
bar in a manner to avoid jars or shocks; to provide a simplified and otherwise
improved construction of clutch-drivor; to provide between a cain timed for vibrating

page_text: cloth-clamp in such a way that more substantial and rehable Dea
for supporting both the cams and other operative members, and to provide certain
improved features of detail, combination and arrangement, all tending to the attain-
ment of simplicity and durability of construction in conjunction with certainty and
efficiency of action.
In the drawings:
Figure 1 is a top plan view of a button-hole attachment for sewing machines
embodying the principles of this invention.
Figure 2 is a side clevation of what may be termed the front side of the attachment.
Figure 3 is a longitudinal section taken on a vertical plane indicated by the dotted
line v, v, in Figure 1.
Figure 4 is a vertical section on line w, w, Figure 1, and represents a portion of
the oscillatory pawl plate 32 which is loosely arranged on the axle of one of the
rotary cams and broken away so as to show portions of the pawl and ratchet.
Figure 5 is a sectional plan representing in plan the several operative members
arranged to slide upon the base-plate, the section being in a horizontal plane just
above said members but below the cams H and I, and indicated by dotted line x, x,
Figure 2.
Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 5, but represents the two cams H and I in
their allotted positions, said view indicating by full and dotted lines the two operative
positions which the cloth-clamp is caused to assume alternately by reason of its lateral
shift or change movement.
Figure 7 represents an end elevation of the attachment, the end selected being the
one to the left in Figure 1.
Figure 8 represents a transverse vertical section taken on the line y, y, Figure 1.
Figure 9 is a longitudinal section taken on a vertical plane indicated by line =,,
Figure 1, and looking toward the front side of the attachment.
Figure 10 is a sectional elevation, the section being on a vertical plane transverse
to the length of the attachment and indicated by line ¹, z¹, Figure 9.
Figure 11 represents a cam employed for governing the motion of a pitman
employed in the feed movement.
Figure 12 represents a longitudinal section through the rotary head that is to be
operated intermittingly from a clutch-driver, and shows the cam of Figure | made
integral with said head.
Figure 13 is a detail representing in elevation a particular construction of spring
or friction brake.
Figure 14 is a side view, and Figure 15 a top plan view of the lever of the clutch
driver.
Figure 16 represents the sliding bearing for the said lever of the clutch driver.
Figure 17 is a detail showing a variation in the form of connection between the
slide bar L and rear extension 4 of the cloth-clamp.
In said drawings, the button-hole attachment is provided with a base-plate A
having a needle-hole 1 which will be brought into register with the needle of a
sewing machine when the attachment is appled thereto for the purpose of working
button holes.
The cloth-clamp B, is constructed with a pair of slotted plates or jaws 2 and 3
between which the cloth is clamped, whereby during operation, the movements of the
cloth clamp may serve to move the cloth relatively to the needle in a manner to
permit the production of the desired over-seaming or over-edge stitching along the
edges of the button-hole slit in the cloth, it being understood that the stitching is
preferably completed, before the button-hole slit is cut, but that when the cloth is
engaged by the cloth-clamp at a point where a button-hole is to be inade, the proposed
line of slit will lie substantially coincident with the longitudinal centres of the slots
in the cloth-clamp plates, and that during the operation of stitching, the cloth-clamp
will perform three distinctive movements, the one being a longitudinal reciprocatory

page_text: movement in order to feed the work forward and back in a direction coincident with
the length of the proposed button-hole; another a succession of horizontal vibratory
impulses to permit the production of what is commonly known as over-edge stitching,
and a third, the change movement occurring at or about the end of each longitudinal
stroke, whereby the stitching is changed from one to the other of the two longitudinal
sides of the proposed button-hole.
The lower jaw or plate 3 of the cloth-clamp herein illustrated is provided with a
rear extension 4 constituting a slide which also serves as a convenient vehicle for
carrying the upper slotted jaw or clamp plate 2. The slotted clamp plate 2 is
preferably in the nature of a spring jaw which may be clamped down upon the work
by some suitable cam or locking device, but which when released will rise of itself so
as to free the work, and to such end it can be formed with or attached to the forward
end of spring plato 5 that is arranged over the slide 4 and at its rear end secured to
a stud upon said slide.
The cloth-clamp is connected by a pitman 7 with a wrist pin 8 upon a rotary head ()
which is in turn actuated as hereinaftor set forth from the needle-bar of the sawing
machine to which the attachment may be applied. Connection between the cloth-
clamp and the pitman is conveniently attained by attaching the pitman to a short
standard 9 rising from the cloth-clamp slide 4, which said slide as hereinbefore
observed is in effect a rear extension of the lower clamp plate 3.
In this connection it may be observed that the pivot 10 employed for attaching the
pitman to the standard, can also be employed as a fulcrum for a cam lever 11 herein
present as a means for depressing the cloth-clamp spring 5 in order to clamp the
upper cloth-clamp plate 2 down upon the work, it being understood, however, thint no
special limitation is placed upon this arrangement.
The wrist pin 8 is desirably secured to an adjustable block or hearing 12 (Figure 2)
which is adjustably held in a groove 13 in the face or front end of the heal, whereby
by adjusting such bearing, the extent of longitudinal stroke on the part of the cloth-
clamp can be determined with reference to the length of the button hole that is to
be worked.
The rotary head C, is during the operation of the attachment turned with an
intermittent or step by step motion so as to impart to the cloth clamp the requisito
step by step end movement. To such end, the rotary head C is actuated from tho
reciprocating needle bar of the sewing machine through the medium of a vibratory
lover which is in practice to be connected with and vibrated by the needle bar in
order that it may in turn act upon the arm E of a clutch-driver adapted for operating
the rotary head C with a step by step motion.
While for certain purposes of this invention various constructions of clutch-driver
could be employed, the particular construction of clutch driver heroin involved is
regarded as a feature of improvemont, and for certain purposes of arrangement the
vibratory clutch-arm E of a clutch driver arranged to alternately engage and release
the head in any known or suitable way is of importance in several particulars, as
hereinafter set forth. To a better understanding of such matters, it is desirable to
first refer to the construction and mode of operation of the clutch-driver herein
provided whereby the operation of the clutch driver and also the relationship of its
arm or clutch lever E, to certain other devices may be the more readily comprehended.
The clutch-driver comprises two members, to wit: a spring controllod lever E
(see Figure 14) and a sliding bearing 15 (Figure 16) for such lover. The sliding
bouring is fitted to turn or slido around the rotary head and to such end consists of
a plate having an inner bearing side or edgo 16 adapted to the contour of a cylindrical
peripheral portion of the head. The lever is at its inner end pivotally attached to
the sliding bearing at such point that when the outer end of the lever is depressed,
its inner end 17 being pivoted eccentric to the axis of the lead will be brought into
position to engago and bind upon the hond, whereby the latter will bo turned
simultaneously with the down swing of the lover. As soon, however, as the lever is
released, a spring 18 serves to release the lover from its grip upon its head, and
further acts both to restore the lever to its first normally raised condition and to

page_text: cause the sliding bearing 15 to slip back about the head to its first position, ready
for the next down stroke of the lever, it being observed that said spring is arranged
to connect the end of the lever with the bed plate or some suitable fixture thereon,
whereby the long arm of the lever will be depressed in opposition to a spring
resistance.
As a means for retaining and guiding the sliding bearing 15 upon the head, the
latter is provided between its ends with a peripherally arranged groove 19 (see
particularly Figure 12) adapted to receive the bearing 15, such disposition of the
guide groove being particularly made to permit the head to have at one end a
connection such as herein before sot forth with the pitman 7, and at its opposite end
to carry a cam G employed for a purpose hereinafter specified, and further to permit
the clutch-driver to be arranged upon the head intermediate of and unobstructed by
said pitman-connection and cam. With reference to this location of the guide
groove 19, the bearing 15 is made somewhat in the nature of a sognent plate having
a part circular notch whereof the edge 16 is adapted to partially embrace the cylindric
bearing surface afforded by the bottom 20 of groove 19, such arrangement permitting
the bearing to be applied and removed from a solid head.
In order to give the lever a firm and steady grip on the head when its long arm is
deprossed, its end 17 is bifurcated as in Figure 15 whereby the bearing 15 can be
received between the sides of such divided end of the lever and connected therewith
hy a pivot 21. With such arrangement the end 17 of the lever will when the long
arm of the lever is swung down engage the perimeter of the head at opposite sides of
its peripheral groove 19, and hence at opposite sides of the bearing.
As a means for actuating the clutch-lever E from the main operating lever D. the
latter, which is conveniently fulcrumed by a stud 22 upon a short standard 23 rising
from the base plate, is at its short end or arm provided with a small stud or roller 24
arranged to engage the curved portion 25 of the clutch lever, while at its opposite
long end or arm said main operating lever D is adapted to be connected with the
needle bar of a sewing machine in any of the ways known in devices of the class to
which this attachment belongs, or in preferred or suitable manner.
The up stroke of the needle bar serves to swing the main operating lever D in a
direction to cause its stud or roller 24 to depress the long arm of the clutch lever,
while on the other hand the down stroke of the needle bar swings the main operating
lever in a direction to permit the rise of said long arm of the clutch lever. During
both of said actions or impulses the stud or roller on the main operating lever
rises along the curved portions 25 of the clutch lever, which during the rise of the
roller is caused by the spring 18 to follow the same in its up movement. As a result
of such arrangement the stud or roller 24 will at the termination of the down stroke
of the needle bar be in contact or proximately in contact with the clutch lever. Jo
this way, the change of stroke on the part of the needle bar, and the consequent
reversement of the direction of swing on the part of the main operating lever D can
be effected without jarring or pounding upon the clutch lever, and hence steady and
even working of the co-operative parts ensured and longer wear attained.
It will be observed that so far as relates to this arrangement of the main operating
lever D and the long arm of the lever of a clutch driver, other constructions of
clutch drivers adapted to drive the head with a step by step rotary motion could be
employed.
A further feature incident to the employment of the cluch lever E (considered
simply as the operating lever of some suitable clutch device adapted for alternately
engaging and releasing the head in a way to effect a step by step rotary motion on the
part of the latter), consists in providing in connection with such lever simple and
efficient means for varying its stroke in order to determine the length of step made by
the cloth-clamp in its forward and backward longitudinal movements, and hence to
regulate the space between the stitches. The device for thus controlling the distance
between the stitches consists of an adjustable stop F formed by a movable bar or arm
which for convenience of adjustment is provided with an adjusting screw 26 and
arranged in such position relatively to the clutch lever E, that it can be set to limit

page_text: the rise on the part of such lever and hence maintain the same in a more or less
dopressed condition: thus by adjusting the set screw 26, the stop can be depressed, so
as to depress the clutch lever to a desired extent, in which way, the depression of the
clutch lever by the stud or roller of the main operating lever D can not commence as
soon as if the clutch lever normally assumed a higher position, whereby the stroke or
extent of vibration of such clutch lover, and consequently the extent of rotary impulse
on the part of the rotary head (, may be shortened.
A further feature in connection with the clutch lever considered simply as the
operating lever of a suitable clutch device or driver for effecting the aforesaid step by
step motion of the rotary head consists in simple and reliable means for compensating
for the usual loss of motion on the part of the pitman at times when it is pressing the
dead centres, it being highly desirable to produce a uniform motion of the pitman, so
as to ensure a uniform stitch. To such end the rotary head C is provided with a
cam G, which during the rotation of the head E effects through the medium of the
stop F, a shortening up of the stroke of clutch lever E while the pitman is travelling
between the dead centres, and on the other hand permits a lengthening up of the
stroke of the clutch lover while the pitman is passing the dead centres, the action of
such cam being to ensure a depression of the stop at certain times, and at other
moments to relieve the stop and allow the same to he raised by the clutch lover to a
higher limit.
This cam can be formed with the head as in Figure 12, or it can be formed by a
plate shaped for example as in Figure 11 wherein by a comparison of the plate with
the dotted circle 27 it will be seen that the plate is somewhat elliptical, so as to form
the two high parts 28 and the two low parts 29 of the cam. This plate is herein
shown provided with a central opening for the axle or spindle of the head C, and is in
Figure & shown bolted to the rear end of the head, and in position to bring its
edge directly under the set screw 26 of the stop F. Under such arrangement
the stop is desirably pivoted as at 30 (see for example Figure 2) to a suitable
standard or fixture, so that when either high part of the cam passes under the set
scrow 20 that is arranged upon one end of the pivoted stop, said stop will be tilted to
lepress the clutch lever E, and thereby shorten the stroke or vibration on the part of
the clutch lever which is thus limited in its upward movement. by the stop. These
parts of the cam pass under the set serew at such times as the pitman is travelling
between the dead centres, the extent of vibration on the part of the clutch lever during
such periods being of course predetermined by the adjustment of the set screws.
When, however, the pitman is passing either dead centre, one of the low portions
of the cam will pass under the set screw thereby relieving the stop to an extent
to permit such spring as may be employed for raising the clutch lover to lift the
same to a higher limit and hence allow the main operating lever D to give to tho
clutch lever à greater extent of motion at a time when the pitman is passing the dead
centres.
The vibratory action of the cloth clamp whereby the cloth is shifted so as to permit
the needle to pass through the cloth alternately adjacent to the proposed button-hole
slit and as far back from the same as may be demanded by the required length of
stitch, is derived from a cam ♬ while the change of motion which takes place when it
becomes necessary to shift the stitching from one end of the button-hole slit to the
other is derived from a cain I.
The cum is herein formed by a cam grooved rotary drum or wheel having its
cam groove timed in correspondence with the required horizontal vibrations on the
part of the cloth-clamp. The cam H is driven intermittingly from the needle bar by
means of the main operating lever D.
As an efficient connection between the lever D and the cam wheel H, the lever D
is connected by a link 31 with an oscillatory pawl plate 32 (Figure 4) carrying a
awl 33 which engages a ratchet 31 that is rigid with the cum wheel. This ratchet is
shown in Figure 10, and in also Figure 4 wherein a portion of the oscillatory pawl
plate is broken away for convenience of illustration. In this connection the oscillatory
pawl plate carrying the pawl and connected by a link or similar connection with the

page_text: main operating lever D is of importance, it being observed, that if the pawl were
hung upon the lever D, considerable difficulty would be experienced in reconciling
the desired throw of the pawl with the throw of the lever. But by attaching the
pawl to the oscillatory pawl plate, the position or adjustment of the pawl with
reference to its required latitude of action can be readily and conveniently determined,
irrespective of the extent of throw or vibration on the part of the main operating
lever.
Connection between the cam H and the cloth-clamp is established by a recipro-
catory slide K arranged transversely with relation to the cloth-clamp as represented
in Figures 5 and 6 and connected with the cloth-clamp by a sliding connection,
whereby while the slide is being operated to laterally vibrate the cloth-clamp, the
latter may have a longitudinal movement independently of the slide K.
As a desirable form of sliding connection between the slide K and the cloth-clamp,
the portion 4 of the cloth-clamp is provided with a longitudinal slot 35 in which a
block 36 (Figure 10) is received and secured to the slide K by a pin or pivot 37, said
block also being indicated by dotted lines in Figures 5 and 6.
This connection between the slide K and the cloth-clamp is therefore a jointed or
pivoted connection, which in addition to permitting the free end reciprocation of the
cloth clamp, also serves as a means for guiding the same.
As a means for varying the extent of throw on the part of the reciprocating slide K
so as to determino the oxtent of vibration on the part of the cloth-clamp, and hence
control the length of stitch, the slide K is connected with the cam by a vibratory
lever 38 which is arranged to vibrate about an adjustable fulcrum 39 and provided
with a small stud or roller 40 (Figure 9) engaging in the cam groove or cam way of
the cam wheel H.
As herein shown the stud or roller is at one end of the lever 38, and the
adjustable fulcrum pin 39 is at the opposite end of such lever, while the pivot which
connects the lever with the slide K is arranged intermediate of said roller and fulcrum.
Substantially the same result, however, could be attained by arranging the roller 40
between the ends of the lever and arranging the pivot 41 and the fulcrum 39 respec-
tively at opposite ends of the lever, as will be apparent without special illustration.
As a convenient way of shifting the fulcrumed pin or pivot 39 it is secured to an
adjustable slide or bearing 42 herein shown provided with a slot 43. (figures 5 and 6)
for a set screw 44 by means of which the slide plate or bearing 42 can be securely
held in its adjustment.
The bearing 42 is fitted to and guided by a suitable guide way in a plato 45 which
is secured upon the base plate A and which will hereinafter be considered a part of
said base-plate, it being observed that such plate 45 which is in effect a raised portion
of the base-plate facilitates the formation of convenient guide-ways for various sliding
members of the attachment.
The slide K can be guided by a suitable groove or guide-way in the raised portion 45
of the base-plate or by a pin 46 passing through a slot 47 in the slide and secured to
such plate 45, and as one of a variety of ways in which the lever 38 can be connected
with a shifting fulcrum, said lever is slotted for the reception of a cylindric block 48.
(figure 9) through which a screw or fulcrum pin 39 is fitted, the block and pin being
in such case in effect a fulcrum or pivot upon the adjustable bearing 42.
The cam I is for effecting the change movement at the end of each longitudinal
stroke on the part of the cloth clamp. This cam 1 is preferably connected with the
slotted cloth clamp slide by means similar to the devices hereinbefore described for
vibrating the cloth-clamp from the cam H, that is to say, the cam groove of the wheel
or roller herein employed engages a stud or roller 49 on a vibratory slotted lever 50
which is provided with a shifting fulcrum 51 and connected by a pivot 52 with a
reciprocatory slide bar L, which said slide bar is in turn connected with the cloth-clamp
slide by a block fitted in the slot of the cloth-clamp slide and attached to the slide
bar L by a pin or pivot 53. The shifting fulcrum 51 is also arranged upon an adjust-
able bearing 54 similar to the bearing herein before described for the lever 38.
By the foregoing arrangement, the sliding jointed or pivoted connections between

page_text: the cloth-clamp slide or rear extension of the cloth clamp, and the two slide-bars K and L,
afford suitable guides for the cloth-clamp and at the same time permit holh the free
vibratory action of the cloth-clamp, and its lateral shift at the end of each stroke.
With rogard to the vibratory action of the cloth-clamp, the pivot or joint between
the slide bar and the cloth-clamp slido constitutes the fulcrum or contro about which
the cloth-clamp as a whole vibrates. The endwiso shift of the slide or connecting bar I,
necessarily serves to shift such pivotal contre to one side or the other according to the
direction in which the slide or bar L is shifted, it being observed that during such
shift of centre the cloth-clamp swings laterally to a limited extent about the vertical
axis of the pivot or other like connections employed for connecting the cloth-clamp
slide with the slide K. The cam I, is as already mentioned, adapted for effecting such
end movement of the slide at each end of the longitudinal stroke of the cloth-clamp,
the end shift of the bar being alternately in opposite directions whereby the
cloth-clamp may be so controlled as to permit the stitching to be inade first along one
edge and then along the opposite edge of the button hole.
As a feature of arrangement herein present it will be observed that the two cams or
cam-wheels and I revolve about parallel axes, and that these cams are connected
with a portion of the cloth-clamp by connections K and L arranged to reciprocate
transversely to the length of the cloth-clamp. The rotary cam or cam wheel I
(see figure 8) is conveniently secured upon the spindle 55 of the head (. This
spindle or axle 55 is mounted on two standards or bearings 56 and 57, respectively
arranged adjacent ene and the other of the two ends of the cam-wheel I which is set
back upon the spindle so as to provide between such eam-wheel I and the head (',
suitable space for the bearing 57. This arrangement permits the employment of two
bearings for an axle upon which the cam-wheel 1 is secured, whereby greater strength,
durability and steadiness of motion can be attained than if the cam I were mounted
upon a stud having a bearing solely at one end.
The separation of the head from the cam-wheel I, also permits the employment of
the clutch driver and cam G, in a simple and efficient manner, it being observed that
these devices are arranged at one side of the bearing 57 while the cam 1 is arranged
at the opposite side of the same. The vertical block or standard 57, on which the
spindle 55 has one of its hearings, also affords a convenient bearing for the pivot 30
of the adjustable stop (figure 9) and further serves as a desirable bearing for one
end of the axlo 34ª of cam H, the other end of said axle being herein conveniently
mounted on the upright block or standard 56. As a matter of course separate
standards or hearings could be provided for the axles of the two cams H and 1, but as
a matter of strength and simplicity such bearings can be formed by two blocks 56
and 57 rising from the bed of base plate.
Between each succeeding forward impulse of the operative portion of the button
hole attachment, the two cams H and I are held by a friction brake against any
tendency to turn back.
As a special and preferred form of friction-brake, alcouple of spring plates M, M,
are applied to the rear ends of the axles or spindles whereon the cams H and I are
secured. These spring plates clasp the axles 34 and 55 between their ends and aro
held together by an adjusting screw 58 which passes through the middle of one plate
and engages in a socket 59 on the opposito plate. In this way, by adjusting the
screw 58, the frictional hearing of the spring bruke-platos upon the axles may bu
varied at will. This particular form of brake in conjunction with the cym wheels is
regarded as a feature of improvement, although for many purposes the form and
application of the brake can be varied, it being evident that a separate brake davicu
for each axle or cam wheel could be employed with good results.
While the construction of the sliding pivotal connection herein bofore described
between the cloth-clamp and each of the two slides K and L is the profarred one, it
will be seen that other equivalent forms of sliding pivotal joints could be employed.
One of these forms is represented in figure 17, wherein the slide L is provided with a
couple of small rollers tit between which a contracted or narrowed portion 4* of tho
cloth-clamp slide 4 is ombraced, it being observed that the extent of lateral vibration

page_text: on the part of the cloth clamp 13 50 limited that there will be no apprecio
binding or cramping of its part 4* upon the small rollers 60 when the cloth-clamp is
vibrated.
While the construction of cloth clamp substantially as herein before sot forth, is a
desirable one, and in several respects has a direct relationship to the connection by
which it is operated from the canis II and I, it is herein understood that no particular
limitation is placed upon the construction of cloth clamp to be used, either in connec-
tion with the means hereinbefore set forth for regulating the step by step motion of a
longitudinal cloth clamp, or in connection with the cam device for rendering the
motion of the pitman uniform, since in such respects, the requirement of the cloth-
clamp is simply that it shall be capable of an end or reciprocating movement, and
bence various forms and constructions of cloth-clamps could obviously be substituted
by those skilled in the art to which this invention pertains.
The same observation likewise applies to various other devices which while herein
present and performing certain individual ends or functions, and which while all
tending to a common end, (to wit the manipulation of the cloth clamp) constitute in
themselves novel and improved matters serviceable in various constructions of button
hole attachments not involving as a whole the general organization of the button hole
attachment herein represented.
Also while it has been shown what is rogarded as the best forms of devices, my
correspondent does not confine herself to the exact devices represented, but includes
in the scope of the claims such equivalents as may be capable of substitution therefor
by those skilled in the art.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
=
1. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sowing machines, a vibratory and
longitudinally reciprocating cloth-clamp connected with a couple of rotary cains by
reciprocating connections, one of said cams being timed to effect the required
vibratory action of the cloth-clamp, and the other one of said cams being timed to
effect at the end of the stroke of the cloth-clamp the change movement, said members
being combined for operation, substantially as described.
2. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing machines, a lever provided with
a shifting fulcrum and arranged in a connection between the vibratory and longi-
tudinally reciprocating cloth-clamp and the cam from which the vibratory action of
said cloth-clamp is derived, whoreby, by shifting the position of the fulcrum for the
lever, the extent of vibration on the part of the cloth-clamp can be regulated,
substantially as described.
3. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing machines, a lever provided
with a shifting fulcrum and arranged in a connection between a vibratory and
longitudinally reciprocating cloth-clamp and the cam from which the change
movement at the end of the stroke of the cloth-clamp is derived, whereby by
shifting the fulcrum of said lever, the extent of lateral movement on the part of
the cloth-clamp to attain the change-movement can be regulated, substantially as
described.
4. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing machines, a clutch-driver
adapted for effecting the step by step feed motion of the cloth-clamp and provided
with a vibratory lever arm, and an adjustable stop by which the extent of vibration
on the part of the lever arm of the clutch-driver is determined, whereby by adjusting
said stop the length of step in the step by step feed motion can be regulated,
substantially as described.
5. In a button-hole stitching attachment the main operating lever D adapted for
connection with the needle bar of a sewing machine, and provided with a stud or
roller which engages a lever arm of the clutch-driver, whereby shocks and pounding
during operation are avoided, substantially as described.
6. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing machines the clutch-driver
B

page_text: connected with the cloth-clamp by a crank and pitman and provided with a cam,
which during the operation of the clutch-driver acts upon and controls the position of
a stop by which the extent of vibratory impulse on the part of the clutch-lever can ho
controlled, said eam being timed to effect a shortening up of the vibratory movement
of the clutch-lever when the pitman is between the dead centres and to permit a
lengthening up of the vibratory motion of the clutch-lover when the pitman is passing
the dead centres, thereby compensating for the loss of motion when the pitman is
passing the dead centres and hence securing a uniform stitch, substantially as
described.
7. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing machines, the rotary hend ()
from which the cloth-clamp is reciprocated and a cam wheel L, from which the change
movement is effected, both arranged upon one axle hut separated from one another by
one of the bearings whereon the said axle is mounted, substantially as and for the
purpose described.
8. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing machines, the longitudinally
reciprocating cloth-clamp, the rotary head connected by a pitman with the cloth-
clamp, a clutch driver applied to said head and provided with a clutch lever, the
pivoted stop provided with an adjusting screw 26, and the cam G rotating in unison
with said head, and engaging under said set screw, said members being all combinad
and organised for conjoint operation, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
F
9. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing-machines, the oscillatory pawl
plate 32 connected with the main operating lever which is netunted from the needle-
har, and a pawl carried by the said oscillatory pawl-plate and arranged to engage a
ratchet which is rigid, with the cam that effects the vibratory action of the cloth-
clamp, substantially as described.
10. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing machines, a friction brake
device applied to prevent the back slip of the two cams from which the vibratory
action and the change movement of the cloth-clamp are respectively effected,
substantially as described.
11. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sowing machines, the construction of
brake which is applied to the two cams and which consists of the spring plates M and
means such as described for adjustably connecting said plates together.
12. In a button-hole stitching attachment for sewing machines, the clutch-driver
consisting of a vibratory spring-controlled lever pivoted upon a hearing that is
arranged to slide about a head from which the cloth-clamp is reciprocated, the pivoted
end of said lever being adapted to bind upon the head when the lover is swung one
way, but to release the head when the lever is swung the opposite way, substantially
as described.