IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTH KNOWN AS 'INDIAN KUTAR, AND OF OTHER CLOTHS OF A SIMILAR NATURE, AND IN APparatus · USED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Edward Simpson and Christopher Cross,
both of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTH KNOWN AS 'INDIAN
KUTAR, AND OF OTHER CLOTHS OF A SIMILAR NATURE, AND IN APparatus ·
USED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE."
Sealed the 16th July 1875, and dated the 18th May 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Edward Simpson
and Christopher Cross at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 18th May 1875.
We, JOHN EDWARD SIMPSON and CHRISTOPHER CROSS, both of
Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature
of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTH
KNOWN AS
'INDIAN KUTAR,' AND OF OTHER CLOTHS OF A SIMILAR NATURE, AND IN
APPARATUS USED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE," to be as follows:-
The kutar is a kind of cloth which has hitherto only been woven by
hand, and the peculiar feature of this cloth is that it is woven with
wefts of two or three different colors; for instance, one weft for each

page_text: border, and one for the central part or ground, the different wefts only
interweaving with their own warps, but interlocking or looping with the
other wefts at the point where the centre and borders join or meet..
Thus the warp and weft of the borders may be of one color, and the
warp and weft of the centre of a different color, and hence a much more
brilliant effect can be produced than if the same weft crossed both
borders and centre.
Our improved mode of weaving the "kutar" is to employ an ordinary
steam power loom having "jacquards," "indexes," or tappets arranged
in such a way as to change the picking parts of the loom, so as to work
central picks with the ordinary shuttle, and alternate picks at the
selvedges of the cloth by means of what are known as "sewing frames"
or "swivel shuttles," so as to put wefts in the selvedges of different
colors to the weft in the centre, and taking the picks of central weft
and "swivel or border weft in such order as to cause the wefts to:
interlock or form a loop or loops at both sides.
Hitherto "sewing frames" have been used for weaving figures or
flowers of many colors across the width of the, cloth, but in our
improvement we use a single "swivel shuttle" at each selvedge,
dropping them into their work or lifting them out of their work by :
means of either jacquards, indexes, tappets, cranks, levers, or by mag-
netic or pneumatic propulsion, thus causing the "swivel shuttle" or
shuttles to produce both figures and angular points towards the centre
of the fabric. `.
In "gaiting up
" this "kutar" cloth we bunch the harness to the
lifting loops in three clusters, namely, the left-hand cluster picked
with (say) red weft, the centre cluster picked with black weft, and the
right-hand cluster picked with green weft. The number of hooks
required will depend upon the pattern to be produced.
The order in which the swivel picks and the central picks come into
operation alternately with each other determines the locking of the weft
threads.
Several arrangements may be adopted for working them, but one of
the plans we use will illustrate the system, although we do not confine
ourselves to that plan alone, as other alternate successions of swivel 3
picks and central picks will answer the purpose. For example, we
pick a green pick from right to left, and then lift the swivel frame;.

page_text: then we pick a black pick from left to right, then we pick a green pick
from left to right, and again lift the swivel frame. We next pick a red
pick from left to right, and lift the frame; then we pick a black pick
from right to left; then we pick a red pick from right to left, and lift
the swivel frame, and so on.
The rising and falling of the swivel frame, and the propelling of the
shuttle of the swivel frame. may be effected by tappets, cranks, and
bands, or in any other convenient manner; and the swivel frame may
be placed underneath the fabric instead of above the fabric at the
option of the weaver.
It will be evident that this method of weaving will be equally
applicable to the manufacture of any other woven fabric besides
“ kutar,” wherein a weft is required at the edges or border of a different
color to that of the centre or body of the cloth.
› SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Edward Simpson and Christopher Cross in
the Great Seal Patent Office on the 18th November 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHN'
EDWARD SIMPSON and CHRISTOPHER CROSS, both of Manchester, in
the County of Lancaster, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of May, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto us, the said John Edward Simpson and Christopher
Cross, Her special license that we, the said John Edward Simpson and
Christopher Cross, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as we, the said John Edward Simpson and Christopher Cross, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-

page_text: MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTH KNOWN AS 'INDIAN KUTAR,' AND OF
OTHER CLOTHS OF A SIMILAR NATURE, AND IN APPARATUS USED IN SUCH MANU-
FACTURE," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Jolin
Edward Simpson and Christopher Cross, our executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under our, or one of our, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Christopher Cross (on behalf of
myself and the said John Edward Simpson) do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to bo
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement and accompanying Drawings :—
The kutar is a kind of cloth which has hitherto only been woven by
hand, and the peculiar feature of this cloth is that it is woven with
wefts of two or three different colors ;- for instance, one weft for each
border, and one for the central part or ground, the different wefts only
interweaving with their own warps, but interlocking or looping with the
other wefts at the point where the centre and borders join or meet.
Thus the warp and weft of the borders may be of one color, and the warp
and weft of the centre of a different color, and hence a much more
brilliant effect can be produced than if the same weft crossed both
borders and centre.
Such being the nature and object of our said Invention, we will now
proceed to describe in detail the manner in which the same is to be or
may be performed or carried into practical effect, and in order that the
same may be clearly understood we have annexed hereunto a Drawing
illustrative thereof, and have marked the same with letters of reference
corresponding with those in the following explanation thereof :-
Our improved mode of weaving the "kutar" is to employ an ordinary
steam power loom having "jacquards," "indexes," or tappets arranged
in such a way as to change the picking parts of the loom, so as to work
central picks with the ordinary shuttle, and alternate picks at the
selvedges of the cloth by means of what are known as "sewing frames"
or "swivel shuttles," so as to put wefts in the selvedges of different

page_text: colors to the weft in the centre, and taking the picks of central weft.
and "swivel" or border weft in such order as to cause the wefts to
interlock or form a loop or loops at both sides.
The annexed Drawing represents a front elevation of a power loom
with our improvements shown as applied thereto, a, a, representing the
ordinary parts of a loom, and b, 6', the two "sewing frames," or swivels
for weaving the borders.
Hitherto "sewing frames" have been used for weaving figures or
flowers of many colors across the width of the cloth, but in our improve-
ment we use a single "swivel shuttle" b, b', at each selvedge, dropping
them into their work or lifting them out of their work by means of
either jacquards, indexes, tappets, cranks, levers, or by magnetic or
pneumatic propulsion, thus causing the "swivel shuttle" or shuttles
to produce both figures and angular points towards the centre of the
fabric.
In the arrangement shown in the Drawing the right-hand sewing
frame 6' is represented as in action, and the left-hand sewing frame bas
raised up
out of action. The sewing frames are attached to the upper ends
of rods c, c, and are lifted up out of action when required by spiral
springs d, d, and are drawn down into action by treadles e, e, the inner
ends of which are connected by rods f, f, to levers g, g, above, which are
actuated by suitable tappets on a tappet shaft h, h, at the top of the
loom. The sewing shuttles i, i, are actuated by means of bands or
straps k, k, attached to bell-crank levers 7, 1, connected by links m, m,
to other levers n, n, also actuated by tappets on the tappet shaft h, h.
"
The central or ground warp passes through ordinary healds, and is shed
in the usual manner. The border warp (so far in as the "Vandyke
pattern extends) is passed through "mails" provided with "lingoes,"
and is worked either by a "dobby" or "index machine" above, or in
any other known manner.
In "gaiting up" this "kutar" we bunch the harness to the lifting
hooks in three clusters, namely, the left-hand cluster picked with (say)
red weft, the centre cluster picked with black weft, and the right-hand
cluster picked with green weft. The number of hooks required will
nan the nattown to be produced

page_text: & .
The order in which the swivel picks and the central picks come into
operation alternately with each other determines the locking of the weft
threads.
Several arrangements may be adopted for working them, but two of
the plans which we use will 'illustrate the system, although we do not 5
confine ourselves to these plans alone, as other alternate successions of
swivel picks and central picks will answer the purpose. For example,
we pick a green pick from right to left, and then lift the swivel frame b¹;
then we pick a black pick from left to right; then we pick a green pick
from left to right, and again lift the swivel frame b'. We next pick a 1
red pick from left to right, and lift the frame 6; then we pick a black
pick from right to left; then we pick a red pick from right to left, and
left the swivel frame b, and so on.
Or instead of this we find it preferable to proceed as follows:-
1. A green pick from left to right. 2. A green pick from right to left, 1
and lift the swivel frame b². 3. A black pick from right to left.
4. Lower the swivel frame b, and throw in a red pick right to left.
5. A red pick back from left to right, and raise the swivel frame b.
6. A black pick from left to right completing the round, which then
follows again in the same order. But, as before stated, other modes of 2
picking may be adopted.
-
It will of course be understood that the picking motion for throwing
the ordinary shuttle across must be so arranged that it shall only act at
the required intervals when the central or black shoot is to be put in,
and shall be out of action whilst the border (or red and green) shoots 2
are to be put in. This may be effected in any convenient manner, as
will be well understood by any mechanic conversant with power
looms.
The rising and falling of the swivel frame and the propelling of the
shuttle of the same may be effected as shown and 'described, or in any 3
other convenient manner, and the swivel frame may be placed under-
neath the fabric instead of above the fabric at the option of the
weaver.
It will be evident that this method of weaving will be equally
applicable to the manufacture of any other woven fabric besides 3
"kutar," wherein a weft is required at the edges or border of a different
color to that of the centre or body of the cloth.

page_text: Having now described the nature and object of our said Invention,
together with the manner in which the same is to be or may be per-
formed, we wish it to be distinctly understood that we claim as our
Invention,-
First. The method of weaving "kutars" or cloths of a similar
character having either one or two borders with a different weft from
the centre or ground by means of power looms, as herein-before
described.
And, Secondly. The combination for such purpose of the power loom
and the swivel or sewing frame, substantially as above described and
illustrated by the Drawing annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Christopher Cross (on behalf of
myself and the said John Edward Simpson), have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of November, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
five.
Witnessed by
GEORGE DAVIES, C.E.,
Patent Agent,
Manchester.
CHRISTOPHER CROSS. (L.S.)