IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU- FACTURE OF CERTAIN PARTS OF BROOCHES AND OTHER SIMILAR DRESS FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Richards, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Chaser, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF CERTAIN PARTS OF BROOCHES AND OTHER SIMILAR DRESS FASTENINGS
AND ORNAMENTS."
Sealed the 12th April 1867, and dated the 23rd October 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Richards at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 23rd
October 1866.
I, JOHN RICHARDS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Chaser,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN PARTS OF BROOCHES AND OTHER SIMILAR DRESS
FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS," to be as follows:-
My Invention consists of the improvements herein-after described in
manufacturing the fastening pins or tongues of brooches and other dress
fastenings and ornaments which are fastened to the dress by means of pins or
tongues, and in attaching the said pins or tongues to the backs of the brooches
and other fastenings and ornaments. In making the said fastening pins or
tongues, and attaching them to the backs of the brooches and other articles,
according to my Invention, I proceed as follows:-I take a piece of wire of the
required length, and I coil it at the middle, so as to form a spring joint, and
at the same time form two nearly parallel wires connected together by the
said spring joint. The spring joint described is similar to that of the dress
pin commonly called the safety pin. One of the said wires is pointed and

page_text: constitutes the fastening pin or tongue, which is inserted in the dress. In
attaching the pin or tongue thus formed to the brooch or article I make in
the back of the brooch or article, by means of piercing and shaping tools
worked in a press, two loops or hollow knuckles, the said loops or knuckles
being raised out of the plane of the back of the brooch or article. I pass the
unpointed wire of the pin or tongue described through the said loops or
knuckles at the back of the brooch, and afterwards bend up at right angles
the end of the said wire, and give a hooked shape thereto, and thereby form
the catch of the pin or tongue. By the formation of the said catch the pin or
tongue is securely connected to the back of the brooch. The pin or tongue
and the joint and catch of the same are thus made from one piece of wire,
which parts are connected to the brooch or other dress fastening or ornament
without soldering.
By my Invention the fastening pins or tongues are more economically
manufactured, and are more readily and securely attached to the brooch or
dress fastening or ornament than pins or tongues of the ordinary kind.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Richards in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
18th April 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
RICHARDS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Chaser, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the thirtieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said John Richards, Her special licence that I, the said John Richards.
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
John Richards, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, usc,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Chanuel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN PARTS OF BROOCHES AND OTHER
SIMILAR DRESS FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS," upon the condition (amongst
others). that I, the said John Richards, my executors or administrators,

page_text: by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Richards, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, that is to say:-
My Invention consists of the improvements herein-after described in
manufacturing the fastening pins or tongues of brooches and other dress
fastenings and ornaments which are fastened to the dress by means of pins
or tongues, and in attaching the said pins or tongues to the backs of the
brooches and other fastenings and ornaments.
In making the said fastening pins or tongues, and attaching them to the
backs of the brooches and other articles, according to my Invention, I proceed
as follows: I take a piece of wire of the required length, and I coil it at the
middle, so as to form a spring joint, and at the same time form two nearly
parallel wires connected together by the said spring joint. The spring joint
described is similar to that of the dress pin commonly called the safety pin.
One of the said wires is pointed, and constitutes the fastening pin or tongue
which is inserted in the dress. In attaching the pin or tongue thus formed
to the brooch or article I make in. the back of the brooch or article, by means
of piercing and shaping tools worked in press, a loop or loops or hollow
knuckles, the said loops or knuckles being raised out of the plane of the back
of the brooch or article. I pass the unpointed wire of the pin or tongue
described through the said loops or knuckles at the back of the brooch, and
afterwards bend up at right angles the end of the said wire, and give a hooked
shape thereto, and thereby form the catch of the pin or tongue.
By the
formation of the said .catch the pin or tongue is securely connected to the
back of the brooch. The pin or tongue and the joint and catch of the same
are thus made from one piece of wire, which parts are connected to the brooch
or dress fastening or ornament without soldering.
By my Invention the fastening pins or tongues are more economically
manufactured, and are more readily and securely attached to the brooch or
dress fastening or ornament than pins of tongues of the ordinary kind.
Having explained-the-nature-of-my-Invention will proceed to describe,
with reference to the accompanying Drawing, the manner in which the sanje.
is to be performed:

page_text: Figure 1 represents in plan of upper side and side elevation the back of a
brooch provided with a pin or tongue made and attached to the said back
according to my Invention; Figure 2 is a side elevation of the same; and
Figure 3 is a plan of the under side of the same.
In making the pin or tongue of the brooch I take a piece of wire of the
required length, and I coil it at the middle so as to form a spring joint, as
represented in Figure 4, where the spring joint is marked a, and there is at
the same time formed two wires inclined to one another, marked b and c,
connected together by the said spring joint a. The wire is pointed, and
constitutes the fastening pin or tongue of the brooch, and the other wire c
serves to fix the pin or tongue to the brooch back and to make the fixing
catch from, as hercin-after explained. In order to attach the pin or wire c,
Figure 4, to the back of the brooch I take the blank back represented in
Figure 5, and by means of piercing and shaping tools worked in a press I
form in the blank back three (or more) loops or hollow knuckles d, the said
loops or knuckles being raised out of the plane of the back of the brooch.
The back of the brooch after the loops or hollow knuckles have been formed
in it is represented in plan, side elevation, end elevation, and cross section in
Figure 6 of the Drawing, from which Figure 6 the manner in which the
loops are formed from the back will be readily understood. After the loops
or knuckles d have been made in the back I pass the unpointed wire c of the
pin or tongue, Figure 4, through the loops d, and afterwards bend up at. right
angles the end of the said wire into, a hooked form, and thereby make the
catch with which the pointed end of the pin or tongue engages, as illustrated
in Figures and. 2, where the pin or tongue is marked b, the connecting
wire c, catch c³, and the loops or knuckles d. By the bending up of the end
of the wire c to form the catch the pin or tongue bis connected securely to
the back of the brooch without soldering.
Figure represents another brooch back having a different ornamental
shape from the last described, the pin or tongue of which is made and
connected to the said back in the manner already described.
Figure 8 represents in plan and side elevation another brooch back
containing my improvements to be used with jet fronts or other non-metallic
fronts. The said back is provided with. cars c, c, for the purpose of attaching
the said jet or non-metallic fronts to the metal back.
Figures 9 and 10 represent my improvements applied to the backs of scarf
pins. The back, Figure 10, is to be used with a jet or non-metallic front
the bent free end of the connecting wire of the pin or tongue in this case
forming one of the cars e instead of forming the catch as in the backs

page_text: previously described.
When the pins or tongues are to be used with scarf
pin or brooch backs, as represented in Figures 9 and 10, the connecting wires
are made a little longer than the length of the pin or brooch backs.
Figure 11 represents in plan and side elevation a sleeve link back and
fastening tongue containing my improvements, the tongue being represented
fastened and unfastened from its catch. In applying my Invention to sleeve
link backs the end of the fastening tongue b instead of being pointed as in
the case of a brooch or scarf pin is provided with a knob or head, and that
part which engages with the catch is bent out of the plane of the other
part, as represented in the Drawing. The fastening tongue bis engaged
with or disengaged from the catch in the same manner as that in which the
pin or tongue of a brooch is engaged with or disengaged from its catch. The
pins or tongues represented in Figures 7. 8, 9, 10, and 11 are made and
attached to the backs in the manner already described with respect to
Figures 1, 2, and 3.
I do not limit myself to the size, shape, or number of the eyes or hollow
knuckles by which the pins or tongues are fastened to the backs of the
brooches, scarf pins, sleeve links, and other articles, as they may be varied at
pleasure; and although I have principally described my improvements in
attaching the fastening pins or tongues to the backs of the brooches or other
articles as applied to pins or tongues made with their joints and catches from
ouc piece of wire, yet ny said improvements may also be applied to pins or
tongues in which the catch is made separately, and is fixed to the back of.
the brooch or article in any convenient manner. In this case the free end of
the wire which is passed through the loop or loops of the back is turned up
or expanded, so as to prevent it being withdrawn from the said loop or loops:
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, I wish it to be understood that I do not
limit myself to the precise details herein-before described and illustrated in
the accompanying Drawing, as the same may be varied without departing
from the nature of my Invention; but I claim as my Invention,-
Firstly, the improvements in the manufacture of the fastening pins or
tongues of brooches, sleeve links, and other dress fastenings and ornaments
which are fastened to the dress or person by means of pins or tongues herein-
before described and illustrated in the accompanying Drawing, that is to say,
making the said pins or tongues and the joints and catches of the same from
one piece of wire, substantially as described and illustrated.
Secondly, the improvements in connecting the pins or tongues of brooches,
sleeve links, and other dress fastenings and-ornaments which are fastened to

page_text: the dress or person by means of pins or tongues herein-before described and
illustrated in the accompanying Drawing, that is to say, connecting the said
pins or tongues to the backs of the brooches, sleeve links, and other articles
without soldering by means of a wire connected with the pin or tongue being
passed through a loop or hollow knuckle or loops or hollow knuckles made
from the metal of the said backs, the free end of the fastening wire being
bent or expanded, so as to prevent its removal, from the said loop or loops,
substantially as described and illustrated.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Richards, have hereunto set my
hand and scal, this Sixteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
Witness,
GEORGE SHAW.
JOHN RICHARDS. (L.S.)