AN IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING THE UPPER LEATHERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Allen Turner, 'of Birmingham, in the
County of Warwick, Currier and Leather Dealer, for the Invention of
"AN IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING THE UPPER
LEATHERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES."
Sealed the 10th August 1860, and dated the 11th April 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Allen Turner at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
11th April 1860.
I, THOMAS ALLEN TURNER, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick,
Currier and Leather Dealer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "AN IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING THE UPPER
LEATHERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES," to be as follows:―
My Invention consists of the improvement or improvements herein-after
explained, in securing together the parts of which the upper leathers of boots
and shoes are composed.
My Invention is particularly applicable to the manufacture of upper leathers
when the sewing of the parts is effected by a sewing machine.
My Invention has for its object to remedy the want of firmness in the
sewing, and the liability of the sewing to become loose when one stitch is
defective or injured, which defects are common in machine-sewn upper
leathers.
My said Invention consists in inserting between the parts to be joined a
strip of linen, or other fabric, impregnated with a resinous or waxy com-

page_text: position. The thread in passing through the said fabric becomes more or less
coated with the wax or resin, and the sewing acquires great solidity or
firmness, and injury to one stitch does not cause the sewing to become loose.
When three layers have to be sewn together, as in joining the two pieces of
leather and the lining, I employ two of the said resinous or waxy strips, that
is to say, I place one of the said strips between the edges of the top and lower
pieces of leather, and the other strip between the lower piece of leather and
the lining. I have found a mixture having the following composition answer
very well, namely, one pound of bees-wax, one quarter of a pound of American
tar pitch, and one quarter of a pound of brown resin. These are melted with
olive oil in sufficient quantity to make a mixture that will set on cooling. The
quantity of oil required varies with the weather. The linen or other fabric is
soaked in this composition while hot, and after cooling the fabric is rolled to
make it smooth, and cut into narrow strips. I afterwards coat the strips
with a mixture of copal varnish and melted india-rubber, applied by means
of a brush.
I do not limit myself to the use of any particular composition, as mixtures
consisting essentially of resin or wax answer the purpose. Although I have
described my Invention with reference to boot and shoe tops made of leather,
yet I wish it to be understood that my Invention is also applicable to boot and
shoe tops made of cloth and other fabrics in conjunction with leather. After
the sewing has been effected, I warm the boot or shoe top, whereby the
junction is made firm. Although my Invention is particularly applicable to
machine-sewn tops, yet it is also applicable to hand-sewn tops.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas Allen Turner in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 4th October 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
ALLEN TURNER, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Currier and
Leather Dealer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eleventh day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-third year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Thomas Allen Turner, Her special licence that I, the said
Thomas Allen Turner, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such

page_text: others as I, the said Thomas Allen Turner, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "AN IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING THE
UPPER LEATHERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Thomas Allen Turner, my executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in
the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas Allen Turner, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say:-
My Invention consists of the improvement or improvements herein-after
explained, in securing together the parts of which the upper leathers of boots
and shoes are composed.
My Invention is particularly applicable to the manufacture of upper leathers
when the sewing of the parts is effected by a sewing machine.
My Invention has for its object to remedy the want of firmness in the
sewing, and the liability of the sewing to become loose when one stitch is
defective or injured, which defects are common in machine-sewn upper
leathers. By manufacturing upper leathers according to my Invention, the
seams or junctions of the parts of the said upper leathers are much strengthened.
My said Invention consists in inserting between the parts to be joined or
sewn a strip of linen or other fabric impregnated or coated with a resinous or
waxy composition, as herein-after described. The thread or silk in passing
through the said fabric becomes more or less coated with the wax or resin, and
the sewing acquires great solidity or firmness, and injury to one stitch does
not cause the sewing to become loose. I also impregnate or coat the thread
or silk employed in uniting together the parts of the upper leathers with a
waxy or resinous composition; additional strength in the sewing is thereby
obtained. For men's boot and shoe upper leathers, I have found a mixture
having the following composition answer very well, namely, one pound of
yellow or white bees-wax, one quarter of a pound of American tar pitch, and
one quarter of a pound of brown or white resin, or curriers' pitch. These are

page_text: melted with olive or sweet oil in sufficient quantity to make a mixture that
will set on cooling. The quantity of oil required varies with the weather.
For women's or children's boot and shoe tops or uppers, either cloth or kid, I
employ the resinous or waxy mixture, or composition herein described for
men's uppers; but when the work is light, both in men's, women's, or
children's tops or uppers, I prefer to use the following composition, namely,
one part by weight of white or yellow bees-wax, and one part by weight of
white resin, sweet or olive oil being added to the mixture to mollify it, or make
it soft or pliable, the quantity of oil being varied with the weather. The linen,
silk, or other fabric is soaked in either of the compositions described while hot,
and after cooling the fabric is rolled to make it smooth, and cut into narrow
strips. I prefer, however, to apply the composition to the linen or fabric by
placing the said linen or fabric, cut into the required sizes, upon an iron plate
on the top of a cistern filled with water, and heated by gas or otherwise.
The steam from the cistern maintains the said plate at the required tem-
perature. I apply the composition to the fabric by means of a stiff brush,
and allow the said fabric to remain upon the heated plate until it has become
thoroughly saturated with the composition. The strips are dried and afterwards
coated with a mixture of one part by weight of copal varnish, and one quarter
of a part by weight of melted india-rubber, the said mixture being applied by
means of a brush. After being dried, the said strips are ready to be used in
the manufacture of the upper leathers. In employing the said coated or
impregnated strips in the manufacture of the upper leathers, they are divided
into suitable sized pieces or strips, and pasted on or between the parts which
have to be sewn or united together; for example, on the goloshes, seams,
backs, facings, and between the linings and parts where the greatest wear
takes place. The parts of the said upper leathers are then united or sewn by
the use of a sewing machine or by hand in the ordinary manner. Before using
the thread or silk which unites the parts of the upper leathers, I prefer to
draw the said thread or silk through either of the mixtures or compositions
herein-before described, according to the work required to be sewn ; the said
composition being in a fused or melted state.
afterwards cleaned with rubbing cloths, and is then fit for use. The thread or
silk passed through the parts supplied with the coated or impregnated strips
is firmly worked in, and the parts thereby securely sewn together, as well as
strengthened. After the sewing has been effected, I warm the boot or shoe
top or upper leather, whereby the junction is made very firm. Where three
layers have to be sewn together, as in joining the two pieces and the lining,
I employ two of the said resinous or waxy strips, that is to say, I place one of
The said thread or silk is

page_text: the said strips between the edges of the top and lower pieces of leather, and
the other strip between the lower piece of leather and the lining.
My Invention is applicable to the manufacture of the upper leathers of
men's, women's, and children's boots and shoes, such as Balmoral, elastic
sides, and lace sides, Bluchers, long and short Wellingtons, cloth and kid,
and others.
I do not limit myself to the use of the particular compositions described, as
mixtures consisting essentially of resin or wax answer the purpose; the said
inixtures being varied to suit the kind of work required to be sewn or united
together.
Although I have described my Invention principally with reference to the
tops of boots and shoes made of leather, yet I wish it to be understood that
my Invention is also applicable to boot and shoe tops made of cloth or other
fabric or material in conjunction with leather, or of cloth, or other material
without leather; which said boot and shoe tops, whether containing leather or
not, are called uppers or upper leathers.
Although my Invention is particularly applicable to machine-made tops
or uppers, yet it is also applicable to hand-sewn tops or uppers.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that I do not limit
myself to the precise details herein described, as the same may be varied without
departing from the nature of my Invention; but I claim as my Invention, the
improvement or improvements in the manufacture of the upper leathers of
boots and shoes herein-before described, that is to say, manufacturing the said
upper leathers by inserting between the parts to be sewn or joined together a
strip or strips of linen or other fabric coated or impregnated with a resinous or
waxy composition, whereby the sewing acquires great solidity or firmness, and
the parts joined together are much strengthened.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Allen Turner, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Third day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty.
Witness,
RICHARD SKERRETT,
Clerk to George Shaw.
THOMAS ALLEN TURNER. (L.S.)