A NEW METHOD (OR MECHANICAL CONTRIVANCES) FOR LACING AND FASTEN- ING LADIES' STAYS (SOMETIMES CALLED CORSETS AND BODICES).
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Field, of No. 2, Old North Street, Red
Lion Square, in the County of Middlesex, Staymaker, for the Invention of
"A NEW METHOD (OR MECHANICAL CONTRIVANCES) FOR LACING AND FASTEN-
ING LADIES' STAYS (SOMETIMES CALLED CORSETS AND BODICES)."
Sealed the 28th July 1865, and dated the 8th February 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Field at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
8th February 1865.
I; CHARLES FIELD, of No. 2, Old North Street, Red Lion Square, in the
County of Middlesex, Staymaker, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention.
for "A NEW METHOD (OR MECHANICAL CONTRIVANCES) FOR LACING AND FASTENING
LADIES' STAYS (SOMETIMES CALLED CORSETS AND BODICES)," to be as follows:-
The Invention consists, first, of a mechanical fastening whereby. ladies'.
stays, corsets, and bodices can bé readily fastened and unfastened.
Secondly, of a mechanical contrivance whereby ladies' stays, corsets, and
bodices can be readily contracted or expanded.
And in order that the Invention may be fully understood and carried. into
effect; I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto. annexed, and the
various parts of which the same figures and letters of reference are used to
indicate the same wherever they occur.

page_text: the letters B, with a long hole cut out, as shewn by the letters C, and the end
bent round so as to form a hook (marked D), their use being described here-
after;
E represents a spring made of brass or steel, its use being also shewn
hereafter; the hooks B and springs E are secured to the busk by three rivets,
as shewn by letters F.
Figure 2.-A, B, represents a busk for the other half of the stay; it has
three long holes with three brass hooks rivetted on, as shewn by letter H (the
part marked H being bent down so as to form the hook), the use of the part
marked I in the top hook being described hereafter; J represents a brass
plate, its use being to put the stay material under to hide the hole made
therein to allow the hook to be passed through. Under each plate J there is
a collar with a long hole in it, as shewn by Figure 3, its use being to keep
the plate J from being rivetted down on to the hook, so as to leave a space.
for the stay material, as already described. In the top plate are two long
holes, one to put one end of the hook (marked H) through for the purpose
of rivetting; the other hole is marked K, and its use is shown hereafter.
L represents a regulator; it is made of thin brass and secured to the busk
by one stud marked M, which keeps it in position, and at the same time acts
as a swivel; it has one end bent up to work in the hole marked K, its use
being shewn hereafter. N represents a small steel wire spring with one end
passed through a hole in the regulator L, and bent round so as to form an
eye, as shewn by letter O, its use being shewn hereafter; the other end being
passed through a hole in the busk and bent round underneath to secure it, as
shewn by letter P, with a piece of small brass wire passed over the spring
and down through two holes in the busk, the ends being bent up so as to
secure the spring in its resisting position, as shewn by the letter Q.
Figure 4 represents an edge view. of the busk, collar, plate, hook, regulator,.
and spring.
Figure 5 represents an end view of the busks and hooks, as when fastened.
Figure 6, A, C, represents another busk (which can be used in the place
of busk, Figure 2); it has three plates and three collars made upon the same
principle as those already described, but much longer, with long holes, as
shewn by letter S, with a small space left in the end of each collar for the
connecting rod to work up and down in, each collar and plate. being secured
to the busk by three rivets, as shown by letter T (one rivet. being under
where the hook W is now represented as being.) In the top plate there are
two studs marked U, their use being shewn hereafter: V represents a con-
necting rod made of brass with one end bent round to form an eye, as shewn
by letter Z, and three hooks rivetted in, as shewn by letter W, their use being

page_text: described hereafter. ✗ represents a grooved brass wheel with a spindle in the
centre; Y represents a piece of catgut with one end fastened in a hole in the
wheel X, and the other end fastened in the eye marked Z in the end of the
connecting rod V, their use being shewn hereafter. At the back of the busk
there is a curled spring, as shewn at Figure No.. 7; it is secured to the busk
by means of a notch cut in the spindle of wheel X, and when the spindle is
put through the hole in the busk the centre end of the spring is put in the
notch and rivetted, the other end is passed up through a hole in the busk and
bent down to secure it in a working position, as shewn by letters A, D, its use
being hereafter described. A, E, represents an eye with a cord attached to it;
it is made of small brass wire with both ends passed through two holes in the
connecting rod, then through a long hole in the busk, and the ends bent up
underneath, but left slightly loose to allow it to work up and down the long
hole.
Figure 8 represents an edge view of the hooks and connecting rod.
In describing the manner of fastening the mechanical fastenings I proceed
as follows:-By taking the busk A, Figure 1, and placing the spring marked
E on the top hook H, Figure 2, and pressing up the spring E, the two hooks
can be hooked in each other, and as soon as that is done the spring E descends
in front of hook H, and in that manner secures the hooks from coming
unfastened; the part marked I in the hook H (Figure 2) is to keep the top
hook B from sliding upwards off the hook H, and the end of the regulator
that is bent up to work in the hole marked K is to keep the hook B from sliding
downwards. These two hooks being thus secured, the other hooks can be
readily fastened in like manner, they being sure to come opposite each other.
Figure 5 shews an end view of these busks and hooks as when fastened.
In describing the manner of unfastening the hooks I proceed as follows:-
By placing the finger against the eye marked O, and pushing that end of the
regulator in the direction of the arrow, the other end which is bent up moves
outwards in the hole marked K, and thus leaves all the hooks marked B free
to be slid off each other, which is done by pulling busk A, Figure 1, down-
wards, and the hooks immediately become. unfastened. As soon as the finger
is taken off the eye marked O, the wire spring marked N forces back the
regulator into its former position ready for use again (as represented in the
Drawing).
In describing the mode of applying busk Figure 6 (which can be substituted
for busk Figure 2) I proceed as as follows:-By taking busk Figure 1, and
placing the top hook B over the hook marked W (Figure 6) between the
two studs marked U, and pressing up the spring marked E, the two hooks

page_text: can be hooked in each other, and as soon as that is done the spring E descends
in front of the hook W and thus secures it from coming unfastened. The top
stud marked U keeping the hook B from sliding upwards off the hook W, and
the bottom stad U keeping the hook B from sliding downwards. The two
hooks being thus secured the others can readily be hooked (or fastened) in like
manner.
P
In describing the manner of unfastening these mechanical fastenings, I
proceed as follows:-By pulling the connecting rod downwards by means of
the string in the eye, marked A, C, as the connecting rod descends, the catgut
unwinds off the brass wheel marked X, and at the same time the curl spring
marked A, D, at the back of the busk winds up until the hooks marked W
are drawn down to the bottom of the long holes marked S, the two studs
marked U in the top plate keeping the books B from being drawn down with
the books W; but as soon as hooks W are drawn from under hooks B,, the
top hook B (with all the others) slide out from between the two studs marked
U, and thus all the hooks become unfastened (the tension when on the body
being to draw the busks apart); but as soon as the spring in eye A, E, is let
go, the curl spring A, D, at the back of the busk unwinds and turns the brass
wheel X, winding up the catgut, which draws the connecting rod V up with it
until the hooks W are drawn to the top of the long holes marked S, and thus
resumes its position and is again ready for use.
Drawing No 2., Figure No. 1.- A 2 represents a thin strip of brass or steel
for one half of the back of a ladies stay, with a number of brass bands bent
round and rivetted on with one rivet, as shewn by letter B; between the two
projecting ends of each band there is a small wheel rivetted in by one rivet, as
shewn by letter C, their use being described hereafter. D (Figure 2,) represents
a cap plate, it is made of sheet brass, each edge being bent down so that when
it is put on the top of the strip of steel A2, it forms a hollow chamber (as
shewn in end view, Figure 4); half of the top part is supposed to be taken off
for the purpose of shewing and explaining the movement that works inside.
In one side of the cap plate D there are stamped teeth (or notches) answering
the purpose of a rack, as shewn by letter E. F represents a brass cap rivetted
on the strip of steel A2, with two wheels to work between, as shown by letters
G; H represents a slide, it is made of sheet brass having each end tapered off
and bent round so as to form an eye, as shewn by letter I, their use being
described hereafter. (Figure, No. 3 shews a side view of the above slide).
J represents a catch secured in the slide by a stud, which when rivetted is left
somewhat loose for the catch to work upon; K represents a feather spring,
secured also by a stud, and when rivetted left loose to allow it to work easy;

page_text: L represents a small grooved wheel which is secured to the slide by a stud, and
when rivetted left a little loose to allow it to revolve; the use of the catch,
feather spring, and grooved wheel above described will be shewn hereafter.
M represents a piece of semicircular brass tube, it is secured to the strip of
steel A2 by being passed under the bands marked B, B, its use being to keep
a clear space for a silk cord to work up and down, which will be described
hereafter; N represents a brass cap rivetted on the strip of steel A2 with one
rivet, and a wheel to work between, as shewn by letter O; P represents a silk
cord, its use being shewn hereafter; Q represents a thin piece of brass rivetted
underneath the strip of steel A2, and bent round to form an eye; S repre-
sents a silk cord, its use will be described hereafter; Al represents a thin strip
of steel or brass for the back of the other half of the stay, with a number of
brass bands bent round and rivetted on with one rivet, as shewn by. letter U ;
between the two projecting ends of each band there is a wheel rivetted, in the
same manner as those already described on strip of steel A2; V represents a small
piece of brass rivetted on the top of the strip of steel A1, and bent round so as to
form an eye, its use being described hereafter; X represents a silk cord (or lace)
with one end passed through the eye marked V, and a knot made to it to secure
it thereto, the other end is then passed round wheel No. 1 on the strip of steel
A2, then round wheel No. 2 on the strip of steel A1, then round wheel No. 3
on the strip of steel A2, then round wheel No 4. on strip of steel Al, then
round wheel No. 5 on strip of steel A2, then round wheel No. 6 on the strip of
steel A1, then round wheel No. 7 on strip of steel A2, then round wheel No.
8 on strip of steel A1, then round the top wheel G under the cap marked F,
then passed down through the top eye in the slide marked I, then brought up
and passed round the bottom wheel G under the cap F, then round wheel No. 9
on strip of steel A1, then round wheel No. 10 on strip of steel A2, then round
wheel No. 11 on strip of steel A1, then round wheel No. 12 on strip of steel
A2, then round wheel No. 13 on strip of steel A1, then passed through the
eye marked Q, and a knot made in it to make it secure, its use being described
hereafter.
In describing the manner of contracting the above ladies stay I proceed as
follows: When the strip of steel A2 is sewn in one half of the back of the
stay, and the strip of steel A1 is sewn into the back of the other half thereof,
with the wheels marked C left projecting (the stay is now represented as
expanded,) by taking hold of the silk cord marked S, which is passed under
the cap plate D, and through the bottom eye in the slide marked I, and by
drawing down the slide (which bas the middle part of the staylace, marked X,
passed through the top eye in the slide marked I, with the ends made secure

page_text: as already described), as the slide descends it draws in the lace X over the
wheels marked G, and in like manner is drawn in over all the other wheels C
until the two halves of the stay are drawn close together; at the same time the
projecting part of the catch marked J slides over the notches E in the side of
the plate cap D; but at any time during the stay being drawn together, if the
silk cord S is let go, the spring marked K. forces the projecting part of the
catch J into the notches E, and thus secures the slide from being drawn up or
allowing the stay to expand.
In describing the manner of expanding the stay I proceed as follows:-By
pulling the silk cord marked P (this cord being passed round to the front of
the stay under a piece of binding sewn on for that purpose), as the cord is drawn
it passes over the wheel marked O, and through the semicircular tube marked
M, and over the grooved wheel marked L, the end being fastened in the hole
marked W in the catch, being drawn as above described, it pulls back the
catch J, and the projecting part being thus clear of the notches E, it allows the
slide to ascend, and when the stay is in use, the tension being to draw the two
halves of the stay apart, the silk lace X is drawn out over the wheels G, and
in like manner over all the wheels C, until the stay is fully expanded; but at
any time during the expanding of the stay, if the silk cord P is let go, the
feather spring K. forces the projecting part of the catch J into the notches E,
and thus secures the stay at the expansion required.
Having thus described the movement, action, and use of the various parts
represented in the Drawings, I now proceed to describe the parts which I do
not claim as my Invention.
First, in Drawing No. 2, I do not claim the Invention of applying the
wheels marked C, or of the brass bands marked B by which they are secured,
or of applying the strips of steel to the backs of ladies' stays, or of using the
silk lace. But the whole of the remaining parts of the Drawing No. 2 which
I have already described, I claim as my Invention..
Secondly, Drawing No. 1, I do not claim as my Invention the application
of the busks marked A, AB, or AC, Figures 1, 2, and 6, to the fronts
of ladies' stays, or the use of the connecting rod V, or of using the curl
spring AD, Figure 7. But the several remaining parts of Drawing No. 1, as
already described, I do claim as my Invention.
Thirdly, I do not confine myself to using only three pair of hooks to one pair
of busks, as represented in the Drawings, as I should often require to use any
number, say two, three, four, five, or six pair of hooks to one pair of busks,
and when they are required of greater strength I should prefer having hooks B,
Figure 1, made of solid brass without the hole in the centre marked C, and to

page_text: apply two springs rivetted on the busk, one at each side of the hook, the springs
being made on the same principle as those marked E already described, or, at
times I should prefer the spring E partly stamped out of the hook itself in the
form of a tongue; either of the above methods will act in the same manner
and answer the same purpose as the one shewn in the Drawings.
Fourthly, I have named the several parts of the fittings as being made of
brass or steel, but I should prefer at times making them of german silver, or
iron, steel, or brass, plated or washed with german silver or any suitable alloy
of metal, such as gun metal, bell metal, zine, iron, tin, steel, or brass. I do
not confine myself to making them of any one or more metals. In particular
what I wish secured to me by Letters Patent is, the use of those parts. which
I have already particularly shewn and described as my Invention.
Fifthly, having thus described the nature of my new method (or mechanical
contrivances) for lacing or fastening ladies' stays, corsets, and bodices, I declare
the advantages obtained thereby to be as follows, that is to say, a simple,
cheap, and ready way of fastening and unfastening the stay, and also a quick
and ready way of contracting and expanding the same at the pleasure of the
wearer, giving free action to the digestive organs after meals, or giving
ease to the body when requiring ease, and rest to the wearer after walking or
dancing, and relacing the stay without undressing by merely putting the hand
under the dress and pulling the silk cord. Also as being productive of health in
preventing the compression of the chest, the ordinary method of wearing stays
being to tie the stay with the lace at the back to the tightness required by the
wearer, and thus secured to save the trouble of tieing and untieing night and
morning, thus having to compress the chest to get the stay to meet for the
purpose of fastening; whereas by my Invention of mechanical lacing the stay
can be readily expanded (without any tieing or untieing), and when in use the
stay can be as readily contracted (or laced) as tightly as required, by pulling the
silk cord, by this means compressing the back and expanding the chest, thus
shewing by my Invention that it is productive of health, ease, and a great
saving of time and trouble.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles Field in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
8th August 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I; CHARLES
FIELD, of No. 2, Old North Street, Red Lion Square, in the County of
Middlesex, Staymaker, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty. Queen Victoria, by Her Letters.
Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of February, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of Her
reign, did; for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Charles Field, Her special licence that I, the said Charles Field,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Charles Field, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the, Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "A NEW
METHOD (OR MECHANICAL CONTRIVANCES) FOR LACING AND FASTENING LADIES' STAYS
(SOMETIMES CALLED CORSETS AND BODICES)," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Charles Field, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly.
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great.
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Field, do hereby declare the nature
of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The Invention consists, first, of a mechanical fastening whereby ladies'
stays, corsets, and bodices can be readily fastened and unfastened.
Secondly, of a mechanical contrivance whereby ladies' stays,. corsets, and
bodices can be readily contracted or expanded.
And in order that the Invention may be fully understood and carried into
effect, I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed, and the
various parts of which the same figures and letters of reference are used to
indicate the same wherever they occur.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1, A represents a busk for one half of a lady's stay; it is made
of sheet steel or brass, with three brass hooks, as shewn by the letters B, with
a long hole cut out, as shewn by the letters C, and the end bent round so as
to form a hook (marked D), their use being described hereafter. E repre-
sents a spring made of brass or steel, its use being also shewn hereafter; the
hooks B and springs E are secured to the busk by three rivets, as shewn by
letters F.

page_text: Figure 2, A, B, represents a busk for the other half of the stay; it has
three long holes with three brass hooks rivetted on, as shewn by letter H (the
part marked H being bent down so as to form the hook), the use of the part
marked I in the top hook being described hereafter. J represents a brass
plate, its use being to put the stay material under to hide the hole made
therein to allow the hook to be passed through. Under each plate J there is
a collar with a long hole in it, as shewn by Figure 3, its use being to keep
the plate J from being rivetted down on to the hook, so as to leave a space
for the stay material, as already described. In the top plate are two long
holes, one to put one end of the hook (marked H) through for the purpose
of riveting the other hole is marked K, and its use is shewn hereafter. L
represents a regulator; it is made of thin brass, and secured to the busk by.
one stud marked M, which keeps it in position and at the same time acts as
a swivel. It has one end bent up to work in the hole marked K, its use.
being shewn hereafter. N represents a small steel wire spring, with one end
passed through a hole in the regulator L, and bent round so as to form an
eye, as shewn by letter O, its use being shewn hereafter; the other end being.
passed through a hole in the busk and bent round underneath to secure it, as
shewn by letter P, with a piece of small brass wire passed over the spring:
and down through two holes in the busk, the ends being bent up so as to
secure the spring in its resisting position, as shewn the letter Q.
Figure 4 represents an edge view of the busk, collar, plate, hook, regulator,
and spring.
Figuro 5 represents an end view of the busks and hooks, as when fastened.
Figure 6, A, C, represents another busk (which can be used in the place
of busk, Figure 2); it has three plates and three collars made upon the same.
principle as those already described, but much longer, with long holes, as:
shewn by letter S, with a small space left in the end of each collar for the
connecting rod to work up and down in, each collar and plate being secured
to the busk by three rivets, as shewn by letter T (one rivet being under where.
the hook W is now represented as being). In the top plate there are two studs
marked U, their use being shewn hereafter. V represents a connecting rod
made of brass, with one end bent round to form an eye, as shewn by letter Z,:
and three hooks rivetted in, as shewn by letter W, their use being described.
hereafter. ✗ represents a grooved brass wheel, with a spindle in the centre.
Y represents a piece of catgut with one end. fastened in a hole in the wheel X,..
and the other end fastened in the eye marked Z in the end of the connecting.
rod V, their use being shewn hereafter. At the back of the busk there is a.

page_text: curled spring, as shewn at Figure 7; it is secured to the busk by means of a
notch cut in the spindle of wheel X, and when the spindle is put through the
hole in the busk the centre end of the spring is put in the notch and rivetted;
the other end is passed up through a hole in the busk, and bent down to secure
it in a working position, as shewn by letters A, D, its use being hereafter
described. A, E, represents an eye with a cord attached to it; it is made of
small brass wire with both ends passed through two holes in the connecting
rod, then through a long hole in the busk, and the ends bent up underneath,
but left slightly loose to allow it to work up and down the long hole.
Figure 8 represents an edge view of the hooks and connecting rod.
In describing the manner of fastening the mechanical fastenings I proceed
as follows: By taking the busk A, Figure 1, and placing the spring marked E
on the top hook H, Figure 2, and pressing up the spring E, the two hooks
'can be hooked in each other, and as soon as that is done the spring E descends
in front of hook H, and in that manner secures the hooks from coming un-
fastened; the part marked I in the hook H (Figure 2) is to keep the top
hook B from sliding upwards off the hook H, and the end of the regulator
that is bent up to work in the hole marked K is to keep the hook B from
sliding downwards. These two hooks being thus secured the other hooks
can be readily fastened in like manner, they being sure to come opposite
each other. Figure 5 shews an end view of these busks and hooks, as when
fastened.
In describing the manner of unfastening the hooks I proceed as follows:-
By placing the finger against the eye marked O, and pushing that end of the
regulator in the direction of the arrow, the other end which is bent up moves
outwards in the hole marked K, and thus leaves all the hooks marked B free
to be slid off each other, which is done by pulling busk A, Figure 1, down-
wards, and the hooks immediately become unfastened. As soon as the finger
is taken off the eye marked O, the wire spring marked N forces back the
regulator into its former position, ready for use again (as represented in the
Drawing.
In describing the manner of applying busk, Figure 6 (which can be
substituted for busk, Figure 2), I proceed as follows: -By taking busk,
Figure 1, and placing the top hook B over the hook marked W (Figure 6),
between the two studs marked U, and pressing up the spring marked E, the
two hooks can be hooked in each other, and as soon as that is done the spring
E descends in front of the hook W, and thus secures it from coming un
fastened; the top stud marked U keeping the hook B from sliding upwards

page_text: off the hook W, and the bottom stud U keeping the hook B from sliding
downwards. The two hooks being thus secured, the others can readily be
hooked (or fastened) in like manner.
In describing the manner of unfastening these mechanical fastenings I
proceed as follows:-By pulling the connecting rod downwards by means of
the string in the eye marked A, C, as the connecting rod descends the catgut
unwinds off the brass wheel marked X, and at the same time the curl spring
marked A, D, at the back of the busk, winds up until the hooks marked W
are drawn down to the bottom of the long holes marked S, the two studs
marked U in the top plate keeping the hooks B from being drawn down, with
the hooks W; but as soon as hooks W are drawn from under hooks B,
the top hook B (with all the others) slide out from between the two studs
marked U, and thus all the hooks become unfastened (the tension when
on the body being to draw the busks apart); but as soon as the string in
eye A, E, is let go, the curl spring A, D, at the back of the busk unwinds
and turns the brass wheel X, winding up the cutgut, which draws the con-
necting rod V up with it until the hooks W are drawn to the top of the long
holes marked S, and thus resumes its position and is again ready for use.
.
Figure 11, A2 represents a thin strip of brass or steel for one half of
a lady's stay, with a number of brass bands bent round and rivetted
on with one rivet, as shewn by letter B; between the two projecting ends of
each band there is a small wheel rivetted in by one rivet, as shewn by letter C,
their use being described hereafter. D (Figure 12) represents a cap plate, it
is made of sheet brass, each edge being bent down so that when it
is put on the top of the strip of steel A2, it forms a hollow chamber (as shewn
in end view, Figure 14); half of the top part is supposed to be taken off
for the purpose of shewing and explaining the movement that works inside.
In one side of the cap plate D there are stamped teeth (or notches)
answering the purpose of a rack, as shewn by letter E. F represents a brass
cap rivetted on the strip of steel A2, with two wheels to work between, as shewn
by letters G. H represents a slide; it is made of sheet brass having each end
tapered off and bent round so as to form an eye, as shewn by letter I, their
use being described hereafter. (Figure 13 shews a side view of the above
slide). J represents a catch secured in the slide by a stud, which, when
rivetted, is left somewhat loose for the catch to work upon. K represents a
feather spring, secured also by a stud, and when rivetted left loose to allow it
to work easy. L represents a small brass grooved wheel which is secured to
the slide by a stud, and when rivetted left a little loose to allow it to revolve;

page_text: the use of the catch, feather spring, and grooved wheel above described
will be shewn hereafter. M represents a piece of semicircular brass tube; it
is secured to the strip of steel A2 by being passed under the bands marked
B, B, its use being to keep a clear space for a silk cord to work up and down,
which will be described hereafter. N represents a brass cap rivetted on the
strip of steel A2 with one rivet, and a wheel to work between, as shewn by
letter O. P represents a silk cord, its use being shewn hereafter.
Q repre-
sents a thin piece of brass rivetted underneath the strip of steel A2, and bent
round to form an eye. S represents a silk cord, its use will be described here-
after. Al represents a thin strip of steel or brass for the back of the other
half of the stay, with a number of brass bands bent round and rivetted on
with one rivet, as shewn by letter U, between the two projecting ends of each
band there is a wheel rivetted in the same manner as those already described
on strip of steel A2. V represents a small piece of brass rivetted on the top
of the strip of steel Al, and bent round so as to form an eye, its use being
described hereafter.. ✗ represents a silk cord (or lace), with one end
passed through the eye marked V, and a knot made to it to secure it thereto;
the other end is then passed round wheel No. 1 on the strip of steel A2, then
round wheel No. 2 on strip of steel Al, then round wheel No. 3 on strip
of steel A2, then round wheel No. 4.on strip of steel A1, then round wheel
No. 5 on strip of steel A2, then round wheel No. 6 on strip of steel A1,
then round wheel No. 7 on strip of steel A2; then round wheel No. 8 on
strip of steel A1, then round the top wheel G, under the cap marked F,
then passed down through the top eye in the slide marked I, then brought
up and passed round the bottom wheel G under the cap F, then round wheel
No. 9 on strip of steel A1; then round wheel No. 10 on strip of steel A2,
then round wheel No. 11 on strip of steel Al, then round wheel No. 12 on
strip of steel A2, then round wheel No. 13 on strip of steel Al, then passed
through the eye marked Q, and a knot made in it to make it secure, its use
being described hereafter..
In describing the manner of contracting the above lady's stay I proceed as
follows: When the strip of steel A2 is sewn in one half of the back of the
stay, and the strip of steel Al is sewn into the back of the other half thereof,
with the wheels marked C left projecting (the stay is now represented as
expanded), by taking hold of the silk cord marked S, which is passed under
the cap plate D and through the bottom eye in the slide marked I, and by
drawing down the slide (which has the middle part of the stay lace marked X
passed through the top eye in the slide marked I with the ends made secure.

page_text: as already described), as the slide descends it draws in the lace X over the
wheels marked G, and in like manner is drawn in over all the other wheels C
until the two halves of the stay is drawn close together; at the same time the
projecting part of the catch marked J slides over the notches E in the side of
the cap plate D; but at any time during the stay being drawn together, if the
silk cord S is let go, the spring marked K. forces the projecting part of the
catch J into the notches E, and thus secures the slide from being drawn up or
allowing the stay to expand.
In describing the manner of expanding the stay I proceed as follows:-By
pulling the silk cord marked P (this cord being passed round to the front of the
stay under a piece of binding sewn on for that purpose) as the cord is drawn it
passes over the wheel marked O, and up through the half-round tube marked
M, and over the grooved wheel marked L, the end being fastened in the hole
marked W in the catch, being drawn as above described, it pulls back the
catch J, and the projecting part being thus clear of the notches E, it allows
the slide to ascend, and when the stay is in use, the tension being to draw the
two halves of the stay apart, the silk lace X is drawn out over the wheels G,
and in like manner over all the wheels C until the stay is fully expanded; but
at any time during the expanding of the stay, the silk cord P is let go, the
feather spring K forces the projecting part of the catch J into the notches E,
and thus secures the stay at the expansion required.
Having thus described the movement, action, and use of the various
parts represented in the Drawing, I now proceed to describe the parts which
I do not claim as my Invention:
First, as to Drawings, Figures 11, 12, 13, and 14, I do not claim the
Invention of applying the wheels marked C, or of the brass bands marked B
by which they are secured, or of applying the strips of steel to the backs of
ladies' stays, or of using the silk laces marked X, S, and P; but the whole of
the remaining parts of these Figures which I have already described I claim
as my Invention.
Secondly, as to Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, I do not claim as
my Invention the application of the busks marked A, AB, AC, Figures 1
2, and 6, to the fronts of ladies' stays, or the use of the connecting rod V,
or of using the curl spring AD, Figure 7; but the several remaining parts of
these Figures as already described I do claim as my Invention.
.
Thirdly, I do not confine myself to using only three pair of hooks to one
pair of busks, as represented in the Drawings, as I should often require to
use any number, say, two, three, four, five, or six pair of hooks to one pair of

page_text: busks, and when they are required of greater strength I should prefer having
hooks B, Figure 1, made of solid brass without the hole in the centre marked C,
and to apply two springs rivetted on the busk, one at each side of the hook,
the springs being made on the same principle as those marked E, already
described; or at times I should prefer the spring E partly stamped out of the
hook itself in the form of a tongue; either of the above methods will act in the
same manner and answer the same purpose as the one shewn in the Drawings.
And I further claim the application of the aforesaid fastenings to leggings and
gaiters of riflemen, and for similar purposes, and the sole right of manu-
facturing them for those purposes, as I shall use a half hook with the spring
at the side on one busk, as shewn by Figure 9, with a corresponding half
hook on the other busk, as shown Figure 10, the above not deviating from
the principle of those already described, my claim being for the method and
action.
Fourthly, I have named the several parts of the fittings as being made of
brass or steel, but I do not confine myself to making them of any metal,
metals, or metallic substances in particular, as I should prefer at times making
them of german silver, or iron, steel, or brass plated, or washed with german
silver, or any suitable alloy, such as gun metal, bell metal, zinc, iron, tin,
steel, or brass; in particular what I wish secured to me by Letters Patent is,
the method, action, and use of those parts which I have already particularly
shewn and described as my Invention.
Fifthly, having thus described the nature of my new method (or mechanical
contrivances) for lacing and fastening ladies' stays, corsets, and bodices, I
declare tho advantages obtained thereby to be as follows, that is to say:
a simple, cheap, and ready way of fastening and unfastening the stay, and
also a quick and ready way of contracting and expanding the same at
the pleasure of the wearer, giving free action to the digestive organs after
meals, or giving ease to the body when requiring ease, and rest to the wearer
after walking or dancing, and relacing the stay without undressing by merely
putting the hand under the dress and pulling the silk cord; also as being
productive of health in preventing the compression of the chest, the ordinary
method of wearing stays being to tie the stay with the lace at the back to
the tightness required by the wearer, and thus secured to save the trouble of
tieing and untieing night and morning, thus having to compress the chest
to get the stay to meet for the purpose of fastening; whereas by my Invention
of mechanical lacing the stay can be readily expanded (without any tieing
or untieing), and when in use the stay can be as readily contracted (or laced)

page_text: as tightly as required by pulling the silk cord, by this means compressing the
back and expanding the chest, thus shewing by my Invention that it is
productive of health, ease, and great saving of time and trouble.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Field, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
CHARLES FIELD. (L.S.)