Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Sept., 1896-Accepted, 12th Dec., 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, REGINALD HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert Haddan & Co., of
18 Buckingham Street, Strand, W.C., London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention a communication to me from abroad by The
Goodyear Shoe Machinery Company, of Boston, State of Massachusetts, United
States of America, and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to stitch forming mechanism or sewing machines suitable
for sewing the uppers of boots and shoes to the insoles and consists essentially in a
work support combined with needle actuating mechanism and with a shuttle race,
said needle actuating mechanism being located to one side of the work support and
the shuttle race being made to pass by the same side of the work support on which
the needle actuating mechanism is situated, said needle actuating mechanism being
provided with a needle and said shuttle being combined with actuating means as
hereinafter described and so timed with relation to the needle actuating mechanism
that the needle draws out a loop of needle thread and the shuttle passes along
outside of said loop, and is then returned or passed through said loop, for looping
or twisting the shuttle thread about a shank of the needle thread loop.
The invention is illustrated by the accompanying drawing in which-
Figure 1 is a side elevation of mechanism for forming the stitch, the shuttle
being down.
Figure 2 is an end view of part of Fig. 1, the view being taken from the upper
end of Fig. 1.
Figure 3 is a side elevation of mechanism for forming the stitch, the shuttle
being up.
Figure 4 is an end view of part of Fig. 3, the view being taken from the upper
end of Fig. 3.
Figure 5 shows the threads for forming the stitch when the needle has drawn
out a loop.
Figure 6 shows a plan view of the threads for forming the stitch, the needle
having drawn out a loop and the shuttle having risen and the loop having been
spread.
Figure 7 shows in perspective the stitch completed ready to be tightened.
Figure 8 shows the stitch tightened, and
Figures 9 and 10 are detail sectional elevations illustrating mechanism composed
of parts so timed with relation to each other as to produce a stitch according to
this invention.
As seen in Fig. 1 the work support T is adapted to support or have held thereto
the work or the upper of a boot or shoe while the insole is being stitched thereto,
and located on one side or to the rear of this work support are the spreader K as also
the actuating mechanism for the circular hooked needle H, and the shuttle race or
shuttle box is made to pass by the same side of the work support on which
the needle actuating mechanism is situated.
In the well known manner of sewing shoes by machinery a hooked or barbed
needle H passes through the work and seizes a loop of needle thread, whereupon
the needle returns or moves back, drawing the thread loop through the work, and
said loop being then spread by spreader K, which carries one shank of the loop
across the shuttle race the chuttle is that through the loon.

page_text: In forming the stitch embodying the subject-matter of this application, the
needle draws out a loop 1, 2, 3 of needle thread while the shuttle is down or in the
lower part of the race, as seen in Fig. 1, so that this loop 1, 2, 3 is drawn out over
the shuttle thread 4. The shuttle thread, as seen in Figs. 1, 2 and 5 now extends
from the last preceding stitch under the loop 1, 2, 3 to the shuttle.
The shuttle M is then shot upwards before the loop 1, 2, 3 is spread into the
shuttle race, so that the shuttle in this upward throw does not enter or pass through
the loop, but passes up outside such loop, and that part of the shuttle thread
depending from the shuttle will lie in front of the loop of thread drawn out by the
needle, as seen in Fig. 3.
After the shuttle is up and while it remains up the loop is spread (Figs. 4 and 6)
the shank 3 of the loop being carried across the shuttle path or race, as seen in
Fig. 6.
The shuttle then descends and passes through the spread loop carrying the
shuttle thread through said loop, so that said shuttle thread is looped or twisted
about shank 3 (Fig. 7), the loop being released by the spreader K when the shuttle
has reached the position shown in Fig. 7, so that the loop is now free to be taken
up or drawn in.
When the loop of sewing thread about a shank of which the shuttle thread has
been twisted, as seen at the right-hand end of Fig. 8, is drawn into the material by
the tightening of the stitch, the shuttle thread is drawn into a loop, as seen at the
left of said Fig. 8, and the branches of each needle thread loop come to rest in a
twisted or overlapped position so that said threads are prevented from drawing
loose.
The mechanism shown is such as is adapted for shoe sewing, the hooked circular
needle H entering the material from one side, and the shuttle being placed on the
same side of the material at which the needle enters, the said parts being timed to
operate with relation to each other, so that as the needle enters the material to
seize the loop of sewing thread and then starts on its return to draw up said loop
said shuttle is in its lower position to cause the shuttle thread to lie below the
needle or below the sewing thread loop, said shuttle moving up as the loop is being
drawn out by the needle and having moved up when a shank of said loop is being
spread across the shuttle path, said shuttle when the loop shank has been so spread
moving back through the loop to its lower position to cause the shuttle thread to
make one twist or turn about a shank of the loop.
The needle H, actuated by lever h engaging cam groove is shown in its
retracted position, or as having drawn up a loop of sewing thread, and will remain
so until the low part of cam groove h¹, or that part of cam groove nearer the
cam supporting shaft X comes to actuate lever h to swing needle H forward or
toward the work.
The spreader K carries one shank of the sewing thread loop across the path of
shuttle M, and the cast-off L takes the loop from the needle, or out of the needle
hook at the proper moment, or before the drawing in of the loop by the take-up is
commenced. This spreader and cast-off are actuated by lever engaging cam
groove k¹.
The take-up roller D on arm d is actuated through link d by lever d',
d³ engaging cam groove d².
The loop of sewing thread having been drawn out and the shuttle M having
passed up, or along outside of the loop, the high part of cam groove k¹ comes to
engage lever k to actuate the latter for carrying or swinging the spreader K across
the shuttle path and spread the loop. After the loop has been spread the high
part of cam groove m¹ comes to engage lever for moving the shuttle M through
such spread loop.
After the shuttle has passed through the loop the take-up draws in or sets the
stitch. The shuttle might also have its nose so formed as to spread the loop when
descending so as to dispense with a spreader.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is-
A work support combined with a needle driving mechanism and a spreader-
located at one side of the work support and a shuttle race made to extend along
past the same side of the work support on which the needle driving mechanism and
spreader are located, said needle driving mechanism being provided with a hooked
circular needle and said shuttle race being provided with a shuttle, and said
spreader and shuttle being combined with actuating means substantially as described
and timed with relation to the needle driving mechanism as set forth so that the
needle draws out a loop of needle thread and the shuttle passes along outside of
said loop, the loop is then spread across the shuttle path, and the shuttle returns.
or passes through said spread loop for looping or twisting the shuttle thread
about a shank of the needle thread loop substantially as described.
Dated this 15th day of Santambor 1906
R. HADDAN.