IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields,
in the County of Middlesex, and of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City of
Glasgow, North Britain, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN SEWING MACHINES."-A communication from J. E. A. Gibbs, of
Virginia, United States of America.
Sealed the 1st January 1858, and dated the 15th July 1857.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
15th July 1857.
I, JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of
Middlesex, and of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City of Glasgow, North
Britain, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," a communication from J. E. A. Gibbs,
of Virginia, United States of America, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to certain peculiar constructions and arrangements
of sewing machines, for uniting or ornamenting by stitches fabrics of all kinds.
According to one arrangement it is proposed to produce a single thread
chain or tambour stitch, by means of a needle and revolving hook, each
loop of the stitch being twisted half a revolution after it has been drawn
through its predecessor, by which means a firmer and more secure chain

page_text: stitch is obtained than has hitherto been accomplished by sewing machines
of this class.
The needle is jointed to the vibrating needle arm, which is actuated by a
cam. The shaft which carries the needle cam is fitted or formed into a hook
at its front end, such hook being of a peculiar construction. It is gradually
increased in thickness from its point which enters the needle loop towards
its shank or shaft, and is concavely shaped at the part where the needle loop
is in contact with it, for the purpose of not drawing more thread than
is requisite; after the loop has thus been drawn open it will slip off the
hook and lodge in an angular recess which the hook forms with the shaft.
This is effected whilst the hook revolves from a horizontal to a vertical
downward position, such motion giving a twist to the loop through the aid
of a "spur" or "cast off" on the back of the hook. This "cast off" is so
arranged in relation to the hook and angular recess that the loop is spread for
the nose of the hook to pass through it on taking a fresh loop from the needle.
At this moment the hook has two loops engaged with it, the fresh loop at
the point or nose and the preceding loop, which now bears against the convex
part of the hook. The further motion of the hook will allow the latter loop
to slip off entirely from the hook, which loop is drawn tight by the opening
or spreading of the new loop.
Motion is imparted to the machine by drawing the cloth which is to be
sewn through it by hand. The cloth is pressed upon the roughened periphery
of a revolving wheel which carries a spur wheel gearing into a pinion on
a second shaft. This second shaft carries a conical drum, which imparts
motion by means of a strap or belt to a second conical drum, the shaft of
which carries a spur wheel gearing into a pinion on the cam or hook shaft.
The strap or belt is adjusted along the conical drums, so as to vary the relative
speeds of the shaft which works the actual sewing mechanism and the feed
shaft, and consequently regulate the size of stitch, since if the cloth is
drawn through the machine faster or slower in relation to the movements
of the needle and hook, it follows that a greater or less length of cloth will
be drawn along between each stitch. The joint in the head of the needle is to
enable the needle to play laterally, and thus admit of the cloth being moved,
even when the needle is still in it.
According to a second arrangement of sewing machine, I dispense with the
revolving hook herein-before referred to, and employ a revolving thread case
of a peculiar form and construction, such thread case carrying a second thread
or not, according to the peculiar form of stitch required. By means of this
thread case, and by reversing the direction of the feed, I am enabled to make

page_text: three different kinds of stitches in the same machine, namely, the ordinary
chain or tambour stitch with one thread, a locked tambour stitch having
a running thread passed through the loops, and the ordinary shuttle stitch.
The thread case is of a lenticular shape, the periphery of which is notched
out at diametrically opposite sides, so as to form two hooks pointing in the
same direction. The rotatory motion is imparted to the thread case by means
of a toothed pinion gearing into holes or notches made near the periphery of
the thread case. When making the single thread or tambour stitch the feed
of the cloth is effected in the same direction as the rotation of the hooks, so that
as one of the hooks comes round it will enter the loop of the needle and will
carry that loop through the preceding loop, which has been previously caught
by the second hook, both loops being on the thread case at the same time
until the preceding loop is cast off, and is tightened by the opening out of the
last loop. By this means each successive loop is drawn through the preceding
one so as to form the ordinary chain stitch.
In producing the locked tambour stitch the same operations are gone
through, with the addition of a second or locking thread carried in the thread
case, so that as the case revolves the second thread will be passed through the
loops at the time the loops are being passed through each other.
In producing the ordinary shuttle stitch it is necessary that the cloth should
move in a contrary direction to the rotation of the thread case, so that the last
formed loop may be caught and simply passed over the second thread and
then released or cast off without being passed over its preceeding loop.
The feed motion is so arranged that it may be reversed easily, so as to feed
the cloth in contrary directions. The cloth is pressed upon a roughened plate
which has a rising and falling as well as a horizontal motion imparted to it in
the direction in which the cloth is to be traversed. The motion of the feed is
derived from a rotating can having an enlargement on one portion of its
periphery.
A third modification consists of a hollow spherical or other conveniently
shaped thread case, having a ball of thread inclosed therein, such ball having
no fixed axis of rotation. This throad case is combined with racks or other
mechanical equivalent for imparting a rotatory reciprocating motion thereto,
the axis of rotation being in a permanent position and coinciding with
the hole through which the thread issues from the thread case. This thread
case is encircled at or near its largest dianieter by a plate or belt having
two hooks facing each other in a plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation.
This plate is guided by running in a stationary circular groove, an opening
being left between the inner circumference of the guide and the outer peri-

page_text: phery of the revolving plate, so arranged as to allow the needle to pass at the
proper time, at every alternate revolution of the thread case. Supposing
the needle to have passed through the cloth and to be about to withdraw
so as to leave a loop under the cloth, one of the hooks on the revolving
plate will catch the needle loop and cause it to pass round and over the
thread case, when the needle is again brought down and the second hook
takes the loop and passes it in a contrary direction round the thread case, thus
forming a locked stitch.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 15th January 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex, and
of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City of Glasgow, North Britain, Gentleman,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twenty-first year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said John Henry Johnson, Her special license that I, the said John Henry
Johnson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said John Henry Johnson, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," a communication from J. E. A. Gibbs, of
Virginia, United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said John Henry Johnson, by an instrument in writing under
hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Henry Johnson, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-

page_text: formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings and to the
letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
The said Invention relates to certain peculiar coustructions and arrange-
ments of sewing machines for uniting or ornamenting by stitches fabrics of all
kinds. According to one arrangement it is proposed to produce a single
thread chain or tambour stitch by means of a needle, and revolving hook, each
loop of the stitch being twisted half a revolution after it has been drawn
through its predecessor, by which means a firmer and more secure chain stitch
is obtained than has hitherto been accomplished by sewing machines of this
class. The needle is jointed to the vibrating needle arm, which is actuated by
a cam. The shaft which carries the needle cam is fitted or formed into a
hook at its front end, such hook being of a peculiar construction. It is
gradually increased in thickness from its point, which enters the needle loop
towards its shank or shaft, and is concavely shaped at the part where the
needle loop is in contact with it, for the purpose of not drawing more thread
than is requisite. After the loop has thus been drawn open it will slip off
the hook and lodge in an angular recess which the hook forms with the shaft.
This is effected whilst the hook revolves from a horizontal to a vertical down-
ward position, such motion giving a twist to the loop through the aid of a
spur or "cast off" on the back of the hook. This "cast off" is so arranged
in relation to the hook and angular recess that the loop is spread for the nose
of the hook to pass through it on taking a fresh loop from the needle. At
this moment the hook has two loops engaged with it, the fresh loop at the
point or nose and the preceding loop, which now bears against the convex
part of the hook. The further motion of the hook will allow the latter loop
to slip off entirely from the hook, which loop is drawn tight by the opening or
spreading of the new loop.
Motion is imparted to the machine by drawing the cloth which is to be
sewn through it, by hand. The cloth is pressed upon the roughened periphery
of a revolving wheel, which carries a spur wheel gearing into a pinion on a
second shaft. This second shaft carries a conical drum, which imparts motion
by means of a strap or belt to a second conical drum, the shaft of which
carries a spur wheel gearing into a pinion on the cam or hook shaft. The
5 strap or belt is adjusted along the conical drums so as to vary the relative
speeds of the shaft which works the actual sewing mechanism and the feed
shaft, and consequently regulate the size of stitch, since if the cloth is drawn
through the machine faster or slower, in relation to the movements of the
neelle and hook, it follows that a greater or less length of cloth will be drawn

page_text: along between each stitch. The joint in the head of the needle is to enable
the needle to play laterally, and thus admit of the cloth being moved, even
when the needle is still in it.
According to a second arrangement of sewing machine I dispense with the
revolving hook herein-before referred to, and employ a revolving thread case
carrying a second thread, or not, according to the peculiar form of stitch
required. By means of this thread case and by reversing the direction of the
feed I am enabled to make three different kinds of stitches in the same
machine, namely, the ordinary chain or tambour stitch with one thread, a
locked tambour stitch having a running thread passed through the loops, and
the ordinary shuttle stitch. The thread case is of a lenticular shape, the
periphery of which is notched out at diametrically opposite sides so as to form
two hooks pointing in the same direction, with regard to the rotation of the
case. A continuous rotatory motion is imparted to the thread case by means
of a toothed pinion gearing into holes or notches made near the periphery
of the thread case. When making the single thread or tambour stitch the
feed of the cluth is effected in the same direction as the rotation of the hooks,
so that as one of the hooks comes round it will enter the loop of the needle
and will carry that loop through the preceding loop, which has been pre-
viously caught by the second hook, both loops being on the thread case at the
same time, until the preceding loop is cast off and is tightened by the opening
out of the last loop. By this means each successive loop is drawn through
the preceding one so as to form the ordinary chain stitch.
In producing the locked tambour stitch the same operations are gone
through, with the addition of a second or locking thread carried in the thread
case, so that as the case revolves this second thread will be passed through
the loops at the time the loops are being passed through each other.
In producing the ordinary shuttle stitch it is necessary that the cloth should
move in a contrary direction to the rotation of the thread case, so that the
last-formed loop may be caught and simply passed over the second thread, and
then released or cast off without being passed over its preceding loop.
The feed motion is so arranged that it may be reversed easily so as to feed
the cloth in contrary directions. The cloth is pressed upon a roughened plate
which has a rising and falling as well as a horizontal motion imparted to it in
the direction in which the cloth is to be traversed. The motion of the feed is
derived from a rotatory cam having an enlargement on one portion of its
periphery.
A third modification consists of a hollow spherical, oval, or other con-
veniently shaped thread case having a ball of thread inclosed therein, such

page_text: ball having no fixed axis of rotation. This thread case is combined with racks
or other mechanical equivalent for imparting a rotatory reciprocating motion
thereto, the axis of rotation being in a permanent position and coinciding with
the hole through which the thread issues from the thread case. This thread
case is encircled at or near its largest diameter by a plate or belt, having two
hooks facing each other, in a plane perpendicular to the axis of rotation.
This plate is guided by running in a stationary circular groove, an opening
being left between the inner circumference of the guide and the outer
periphery of the revolving plate, so arranged as to allow the needle to pass at
the proper time at every alternate revolution of the thread case. Supposing
the needle to have passed through the cloth and to be about to withdraw so as
to leave a loop under the cloth, one of the hooks on the revolving plate will
catch the needle loop and cause it to pass round and over the thread caso,
when the needle is again brought down and the second hook takes the loop
and passes it in a contrary direction round the thread case, thus forming a
locked stitch.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose 1 shall
refer to the several Figures on the Sheets of Drawings hereunto annexed, the
same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts throughout all tho
corresponding Figures.
machine corresponding to Figure 2.
Figure 1 of the Drawings represents a front elevation of one arrangement
of sewing machine constructed according to this Invention; Figure 2 is a
corresponding side elevation of the same; and Figure 3 is a plan of the
This machine is intended to sew with a single thread, which is properly
conducted to the needle A from the bobbin B by passing through the several
eyes a, a. The needle is connected to the vibrating needle arm C by means
of a yielding joint, which enables the needle to move laterally or in the
direction of the feed, the needle head forming the centro of motion or
oscillation. The vibrating needle arm C works on a fixed centre at D, and
receives a reprocating up-and-down motion from a guide wheel or grooved
cam E (shown in dotted lines in Figure 1), into the groove of which the
shank or tail of the needle arm plays. This guide wheel or cam is placed
eccentrically upon a disc F fast on a shaft G, so that cach revolution of this
shaft will impart a vibration to the needle arm, and so produce a needle
stroke. The shaft G works in fixed bearings, and extends from the back to
the front portion of the machine, where it is terminated by a hook H of a
peculiar construction, the shape and functions of which will be better under-

page_text: stood on referring to the details, Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, which not only
shew the peculiar formation of the hook in elevation and plan, but also
illustrates its mode of operation by showing its different positions in a single
revolution. This book is so arranged in relation to the needle arm that when
the latter shall have reached its lowest point of stroke the hook will be
just facing the loop which the needle has brought through the cloth. As the
needle then begins to ascend, the loop is loosened and opens slightly, whilst
at the same time the nose of the hook advances and penetrates the loop, as
shown in Figure 4, which loop is gradually extended or spread by the fol-
lowing part of the revolution of the hook. The hook gradually increases in
thickness, and is concavely shaped at the part where the loop is in contact
therewith, so that there may not be more thread drawn off the bobbin than
is strictly necessary. After the loop has thus been drawn open, as shewn in
Figure 5, it will slip down the hook and lodge in the angular recess which
is formed at the junction of the hook with its shaft G. This slipping of the
loop takes place during the time the hook is revolving from the horizontal
position, shown in Figure 5, to the vertical downward position shewn in
Figure 6. A twist or half turn is now given to the loop, so as to bring the
thread which has been behind the needle in front thereof, whilst that which
was in front of the needle is turned towards the rear of the loop. This is
accomplished by the small spur or "cast off" i, which is so arranged in
relation to the hook and angular recess has to thread the loop for the nose of
the hook to pass through when taking a fresh loop from the needle. The
hook will then have two loops engaged, namely the fresh loop at the point
or nose and the preceding loop, which now bears against the convex part of
the hook, as shewn in Figure 4. The continued motion of the hook will
cause the latter loop to slip off entirely, as shown in Figure 5, where it is
being drawn up tight by the extension of the new loop. This series of
operations is repeated at every revolution of the hook, producing a series of
twisted single thread tambour or chain stitches of the formation shewn in
Figures 9 and 10, which represent respectively the upper and under side of
the seam. This stitch has the advantage of being both stronger and more
compact than the ordinary chain stitch, whilst at the same time the twist
between each stitch forms a species of knot, which prevents the thread from
being easily drawn out. In driving this machine the whole driving force is
applied directly to the cloth itself, by drawing by hand through the machine,
and thereby transmitting its motion to the mechanism operating the machine.
This is effected in the following manner :-I is a wheel the periphery of which
is flush with the sewing table K, of which in reality the wheel forms a part.

page_text: A portion of the periphery of the wheel I is roughened, and upon this
roughened portion the cloth to be sewed is placed, and held pressed thereon by
a permanent spring pressure pad, or by means of rollers or their equivalent. A
series of spur teeth are made on this wheel which gear into a pinion L fast
on the second shaft M, which carries a conc drum N. An endless belt or
band O, passing over a regulating pulley P, connects the drum N with another
cone drum Q fast on the shaft R, the shafts of the two drums being parallel
with each other. The shaft R carries a spur wheel S, which gears into a
pinion T fast on the hook shaft G, herein-before referred to. The diameters
and relative arrangements of the various wheels and pinions must of course
be calculated to suit convenience and the speed required, and as the length
of the stitches depends upon the velocity of rotation of the wheel 1 in relation
to that of the hook 11, the speed of which is regulated accordingly by simply
shifting the endless belt or band O along the conical drum N, so as to cause
it to run on a larger or smaller diameter at pleasure. This may be effected
by the regulating pulley P, which is capable of being adjusted at any point
in a line parallel with the axes of the cones. Figure 11 represents a side
|elevation, and Figure 12 a plan of a thread case of a peculiar construction
and arrangement, which it is proposed to use in combination with a peculiar
double-action feed motion, herein-after described. This thread case A is of a
lenticular form, the circular edge of which is so notched out at two points.
diametrically opposite to each other as to form two hooks B and C pointing
in the same direction round the periphery of the lens. The recess formed
within and beneath the hook is so formed as to cast off the loop when required.
A series of notches or perforations a, a, are made in the thread case near its
periphery, and into these notches or perforations gears a toothed wheel,
which wheel is placed in a plane parallel with the periphery of the lens.
The thread case is supported at its periphery so as to revolve round an axis
which is parallel with the sewing table, but at right angles to the direction of
the feed. The operation of this thread case will be readily understood after
referring to the peculiar feed motion in conjunction with which it is proposed
to use this thread case, and which I shall now proceed to describe.
Figure 13 represents a side elevation, and Figure 14 a corresponding
end view of the double-action feed motion which is applicable to all
ordinary sewing machines wherein the driving shaft is placed beneath
the sewing table. A is the roughened plate upon which the cloth is
held down by any convenient arrangement of yielding plate or pad. The
plate when clevated stands up a little above the surface of the table B,
shewn in section in Fig. 13; C is a horizontal bar which carries the roughened

page_text: plate at one end, whilst its opposite extremity is jointed so as to work freely
on the upper extremity of the vertical lever D. This lever works or oscillates
on a fixed centre at E, and its lower end is also jointed to the bottom bar F.
An arm G, which is rigidly attached to or formed in one piece with the upper
horizontal bar C and the lower portion of this arm G, is formed with two
other arms or projections H and K, standing at right angles to each other,
the former being horizontal and the latter vertical. A similar rectangle h
and k, is formed on the lower bar F; L is an eccentric or cam fast on the
driving or other convenient shaft of the machine, and revolving in the
direction of the arrows. This cam actuates the two bars C and F, the arms.
or projections H and h of which rest upon it, and are thereby elevated at
each revolution of the cam.
M is a blade spring attached to the machine in such a manner as to be
capable of being turned partly on a pivot N, so as to bear either upon the
upper or lower end of the vertical oscillating lever D. This spring is shown
more clearly in Figure 14, the dotted lines shewing its position when applied
to the lower end of the lever. The operation of this feed motion is as
follows: As the eccentric, cam, or wiper L revolves, its larger radius will bear
upon the under side of the horizontal fork H of the arm G, thereby elevating
the bar C and roughened plate A, causing the latter to strike the cloth.
The continued rotation of the eccentric in the direction of the arrow causes
the bar C, with the roughened plate A, to be pushed forward by reason of the
larger radius of the eccentric acting upon the fork K of the arm G. As the
eccentric continues to revolve the enlargement thereon will leave the fork K,
and allow the bar C to be returned again to its original position by the
pressure of the blade spring .M against the upper end of the lever D.
Previous to this, however, the bar C with its roughened plate has descended
slightly by reason of the onward movement of the enlargement of the eccen-
tric, so that the roughened plate will be perfectly free from the cloth during
the return or back stroke.
A regulating screw O limits the length of the return stroke by abutting
against the lower end of the lever, & thereby regulates the length of stitch,
as by suitably adjusting this screw the length of the return stroke may be
increased or diminished.
In order to reverse the direction of the feed motion it is simply necessary
to move the end of the spring M from the upper to the lower end of the
lever D, so that the pressure of the spring will bring the upper end of
the lever against the upper regulating screw P. This will have the
effect of withdrawing the fork K of the arm G from the eccentric, whilst

page_text: the corresponding part of the bar F will be brought up to the eccentric
in a position to be acted upon thereby. The eccentric now revolving in
the direction of the arrow will first act upon the fork II of the arm G,
and so clevate the roughened plate A, and bring it in contact with the
cloth, as before described; but as it continues to revolve it acts upon the
lower bar F, through the part marked k, and pushes it backwards with the
lower end of the lever D, thereby causing the upper end of the same lever
with the upper bar C to move in a contrary direction carrying the cloth with
it, which thus moves to the right hand in place of to the left as before
described. The position of the spring M being reversed, the upper end of
the lever will be brought back against the regulating screw P, in a similar
manner to that described with reference to the lower ends of the lever, the
length of stitches being regulated as before by properly adjusting the screw P.
It will thus be seen that the two bars C and F are made to act separately in
a horizontal direction by simply changing the position of the spring M accord-
ing to the direction of feed required.
I shall now proceed to describe the combined operations of this double-
action feed motion, and the thread case herein-before last described. The
power of changing at will the direction of the feed or traverse of the cloth
taken in connection with the double-hooked thread case enables thrco
different kinds of stitches to be made in the same machine, namely, tho
ordinary single thread chain or tambour stitch, the ordinary lock or shuttle
stitch with two threads, and a combined lock and chain stitch, as shewn by
the Diagram Figure 15, the loops of the chain stitch being interlaced with a
shuttle or reversing thread. The thread case may or may not carry a
second thread, according as a two thread or a enc thread is required to be
produced.
In Figure 11 the motion of the cloth is from the right to the left, as
indicated by the arrow, and the stitch, provided there is no thread in
the thread case, will be the ordinary chain stitch, and the needle which is
shewn in the act of presenting a loop makes two downward strokes for cach
revolution of the lenticular thread case. The hook B catches into the loop
and carries it through the former loop, such loop being now drawn open, and
will be cast off' or released by the onward motion of the hook C, which is then
free to take another loop from the needle, and pass it through the preceeding
one as before, and so on.
By using a second thread, and proceeding as above described, the combined
lock and chain stitch shewn at Figure 15 will obviously be produced. In
Figure 16 the direction of the feed is reversed, that is, the cloth is traversed from

page_text: left to right, as shewn by the arrow, and a second thread is carried by the
thread case. This change of feed has the effect of preventing one hook from
being passed through the other as in Figure 11, the hooks serving simply to
distend and pass the loops over the thread case, and then to release them
after the second or lock thread has thus been vertically passed through
them.
Figure 17 of the Drawings represents a top plan view of another form of
thread case; Figure 18 is a plan of the under side of the same; Figure 19 is
a side elevation, and Figure 20 a vertical section of this thread case. The
two Figures a and b represent the thread case in two positions in relation to
the actuating tangential rack herein-after referred to. This thread case A is
made hollow, and of a spherical, oval, or other convenient form for receiving
a ball of thread B, which ball of thread has no fixed axis of rotation, but is
perfectly free to revolve in any direction inside the thread case, by the draw-
ing off of the thread as it is used up in sewing.
This thread case is combined with any convenient arrangement of mechanism
for giving a rotatory and reciprocating motion thereto, in such a manner that
the axis of revolution shall always be in a permanent position, and shall pass
through the hole by which the thread issues from the case, as shewn in the
Drawing. The thread case is surrounded at or near its largest diameter by a
plate or belt C fixed thereto, and fitted with two hooks facing each other in
a plane perpendicular to the axis of revolution.
The revolving hook plate C is guided by a stationary circular groove D,
having a hole through it between its inner periphery and the outer periphery
of the revolving plate or belt so arranged as to allow the needle to pass at the
proper time at every alternating revolution of the thread case. The spherical
thread case A is made in two parts secured together in any convenient manner
so as to allow of the insertion therein of the ball of thread B.
The upper hemisphere is furnished with a central hole through which the
thread passes, and the requisite tension or drag is obtained by first passing
the thread through other holes made for that purpose near the central outlet
aperture.
The plate or belt C is secured to the spherical thread case at its largest
diameter, and is situated in a plane which is perpendicular to the vertical
axis passing through the central hole in the case, and through which the
thread issues.
Two houks 1 and 2 are fitted to the plate so as to face each other, and at
such a distance apart that they correspond to the terminus of each single
revolution or part of a revolution.

page_text: The opening in the guide groove D through which the needle passes is so
disposed in relation to the hooks that they are compelled to pass through the
loop when presented.
In Figures a and b the horizontal rack which imparts motion to the thread
case and plate is represented as being drawn to the extreme limits of its
motion, and the hooks are situated one on each side of the needle hole so as
to shew them in the act of passing through the loop. E is a tangential rack
the teeth of which gear into a spur pinion F attached to the plate C, so that
the to-and-fro motion of the rack will impart a circular reciprocating motion
to the thread case and plate C. The action of this apparatus is as follows:-
Supposing the needle of a lock stitch machine to have passed through the
cloth, and to be about to withdraw, leaving a loop under the cloth, the hook 1
which is now placed in readiness to enter the loop is caused to revolve, and
thereby twists the thread of the needle loop a turn or part of a turn so as to
pass such loop around and over the thread case. When the needle is again
brought down, the second hook 2 then faces the next loop presented by the
needle, and by the return revolution of the case twists the loop a turn or part
of a turn in the opposite direction, and so on.
It is thus obvious that the thread is not twisted continuously in the direction
as is the case with shuttles which revolve in one direction only, but each
single twist is immediately untwisted again by the succeeding action of the
second hook in an opposite direction to the first one.
By cutting away a larger portion of the periphery of the plate C, and
leaving just sufficient metal to keep it steady in its circular groove, and by
placing the books 1, 2, farther apart, it will not be necessary to give the
thread case a full revolution, but but only to reciprocate the hooks through a
part of a circle sufficient to cause them to pass the needle at the commencement
of their return motion.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I would observe in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict
myself to the precise details or arrangements which 1 have had occasion to
describe or refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without
deviating from the principles or main features of the said Invention. Nor do
I claim any of the mechanical elements of which the said apparatus and
parts of apparatus are respectively composed as being separately or apart from
the use or application of such elements to form the combinations constituting
such apparatus, and parts of apparatus respectively, as being any part of the
said Invention; but what I consider to be novel and original, and therefore

page_text: claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent, is,-
First, the general constructions, arrangements, and combinations of parts
of sewing machines, as herein-before described and illustrated by the
Drawings.
Second, the application and use of a revolving hook working in connection
with a needle in the manner and for the purpose herein-before described and
illustrated by the Drawings.
Third, the twisting or turning of the loop when sewing with a single thread
after such loop has been passed through the cloth and before taking a fresh
loop, in the manner and for the purpose herein-before described and illustrated
by the Drawings.
Fourth, the driving or imparting the power necessary for operating sewing
machines by drawing the cloth or material to be sewed under and across the
needle path, the whole of the force requisite for actuating the machine being
applied to the cloth itself, and transmitted thence to the mechanism operating
the machine.
Fifth, the attachment of the needle to the needle head by means of a
yielding joint for the purpose herein-before described.
Sixth, the application and use of cone drums in combination with suitable
appliances for duly regulating the speeds of the cloth and revolving hook in
relation to each other, whereby various lengths of stitches may be obtained, as
herein-before described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Seventh, the application and use of a double pointed lenticular thread
case in combination with the peculiar double-action feed mechanism, whereby
three different varieties of stitches may be produced by the same instruments
in one machine, as herein-before described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Eighth, the peculiar construction and arrangement of double-action or
reversible feed mechanism in combination or not with the rest of my improve-
ments, as herein-before described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Ninth, the application and use of a spherical, oval, or other similar shaped
thread case, wherein the enclosed ball of thread has no particular fixed axis
of rotation, but is perfectly loose and free to revolve in any direction insido
the thread case, whilst the axis of rotation of such thread is stationary, as
herein-before described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Tenth, the attachment of a plate or its equivalent to a spherical, oval, or
other similar shaped thread case, such plate being furnished with two hooks,
and having a reciprocating circular motion imparted to it by means of a rack
or other convenient mechanical contrivance, the axis of rotation of the thread

page_text: case and plate being vertical and stationary, as herein-before described and
illustrated by the Drawings.
Eleventh, the making of a series of lock stitches by the aid of a double
hook having a circular reciprocating motion of an entire revolution or part of
a revolution, in the manner herein-before described and illustrated by Figures
17, 18, 19, and 20 of the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, the Twelfth day of January, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-eight.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.S.)