Improvements in or relating to Forms for Dress Making and Similar Purposes.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 4th May, 1897-Accepted, 10th July, 1897
DI MUIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to Forms for Dress Making and
Similar Purposes.
I, NATALIE SCHELL, of 757 Alvarado Street, City of Los Angeles, County of Los
Angeles, State of California, United States of America, Manufacturer of Forms, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
My present invention has for its object the construction of a bust form which may
be readily changed or adjusted to correspond with the bust measurement of a number
of persons, thus making it adapted for use in dressmaking establishments generally.
In fact, the present invention is designed for the use of dressmaking solely and not
for individual use; consequently it is necessary that considerable adjustment of the
several parts be permitted in order that the bust may be adapted to correspond to
various differences which exist between a number of persons. For instance, it is not
sufficient that the form be permitted lateral adjustment or vertical adjustment, for
such adjustment would only suffice for persons having approximately the same bust
measurement; but in order that the form may be of use generally it is necessary that
in addition to vertical and lateral adjustment that the several parts or pieces
composing the form be allowed or permitted adjustment independent of each other.
By permitting the form to be adjusted at any desired point, I can readily adjust the
parts so as to reproduce in the device any malformation which may exist in the
human form, thus making the fitting form an exact reproduction as to measurement
of the form of the person whom the dressmaker may desire to fit.
In order to fully comprehend my invention reference must be had to the
accompanying sheets of drawings, wherein :
Figure 1 is a front view in elevation of the completed form;
Figure 2 is a back view in elevation; and
Figure 3 is a side view in elevation.
My improved form is composed of a series of stays, bands and connecting strips;
which stays, bands and connecting strips are composed of material having such
ductility as to permit of being bent so as to conform to the contour of the human
body, but of sufficient rigidity to maintain in place after the form has been built
out or completed; consequently there is no danger of the form collapsing during the
operation of fitting a dress thereon; consequently, after the form is once made up,
it will maintain its proper shape until the several parts are changed by the operator.
The form is built in four or more sections, each section being capable of
independent adjustment. The two front sections are composed of the vertical stays
A, B, C, and D, E, F, Figure 1. Stay A and D of each section runs the entire length
of the form; and the upper end of each stay is connected to one of the shoulder
braces 1, by means of the screw 2. Vertical stays B, E, of each section are connected
at their upper end to the bust band 3 by rivets 4, the outer end of which bust bands
s rigidly secured to the vertical stays C, F, by rivets 5; while the inner end of said
bands is movably secured to the vertical stays A, D, by screws 6. Upper end of
CO

page_text: vertical stays C, F, I rigidly secure to one of the bands, say a, which constitute the
arm size by rivets 7.
The vertical stays B, C, and E, F, are rigidly connected by means of the hip
bands 8, 9, waist bands 10, and bust bands 11, 3, each band, excepting band 3, being
rigidly secured to said stays by means of rivet 12; the band 3 being connected by
rivets 4 and 5. The hip bands 8, 9, waist bands 10, and bust band 11 project at their
outer end beyond the vertical stays C, F; and are movably connected at their ends
to the side stays O, P, by screws 13. Vertical stays A, D, of each front section are
connected to the central or middle stay M, by means of the connecting strips 14 and
15, one end of strip 14 being rigidly secured to stay A by rivet 16, while strip 15 is
connected rigidly to vertical stay D by rivet 17, both strips being movably secured
to the central or middle stay by screw 18. These screws pass through one of the
perforations 19 of the connecting strip and perforations 20 of the central or middle
stay; consequently, by changing the screw 18 from one perforation to another, the
stay A or D may be moved toward or away from the central stay M. I further
connect the vertical stays A and D with the vertical stays B and E, respectively, by
the strips 21, one end of said strips being rigidly secured to stays A and D, by
rivets 22; while the free portion of said strips I connect to the stays B and E by
screws 23, which pass through the perforations 24 of said strips and perforations 25 of
the stays consequently, by changing the position of said strips (that is, swinging
the same up or down), the stays B and E may be readily moved toward or from the
stays A and D.
The vertical stays and side stays and central stays are made of a number of pieces
or in sections, each piece or section being movably secured to the next by screws 26,
which pass through the perforations 20, 25, 27 and 28: consequently, said stay may
be readily shortened or lengthened, in order to increase or decrease the length of the
form.
The screws 13, which connect the projecting end of the hip bands 8 and 9, waist
bands 10 and bust bands 11 with the side stays, pass through perforations 29 of said
bands and perforations 28 of the side stays. As the screws 13 are changed from one
perforation of said bands to another, the vertical stays B, C, and E, F, are moved
toward or from the side stays. It is through the medium of these bands and the
connecting strips 14 and 15 that the front sections of the bust form are adjusted
laterally.
The arm size or pit of the form is composed of the sections or segments a, b, c, d, e,
each segment being adjustably connected by screws 30, which pass through the
perforations 31 of said segments.
To the sections or segments I secure the upper end of side stays O, P, by screws 32.
To one of the sections, say b, is secured by rivets 33 the bust bands 34, which bands
project forward and are connected to vertical stays A and D by screws 35, which screws
pass through perforations 36 of said bands and those of the stays. By thus uniting
the bust bands 34 to the vertical stays, the same may be adjusted vertically and
laterally, so as to increase or decrease the bust measurement at this point. The
bands 34 are connected to the central bust band 3 by means of the curved connecting
strips 37 the upper end of which straps I secure to the bust bands 34 by rivets 38,
and the free end portion to bust bands 3 by screws 39. These screws pass through
perforations 40 of the straps 37 and perforations of the bust bands 3. By movably
securing the curved straps 37 to the bust bands 3, they may be moved back and forth
as the position of the bands 34 is changed.
From the arm size sections c project the stays 41, which stays act as a support for
the arm size. These straps are adjustably connected to the vertical stays A, D, by
screws 42, as shown. The upper end of the vertical stays A and D I secure to the
shoulder straps or braces 1 by screws 2, as before stated. The lower end of these
shoulder straps or braces I secure to one of the sections, say d, composing the arm
size, by means of one of the screws 30, said screw, which secures said ends of the
straps, passing through one of the perforations 43 of said straps.
The collar of the form is composed of a series of sections f, each united together by

page_text: screws 44, which pass through the perforations 45 of said sections. This collar, when
the sections are united, is supported by means of the front stay M, back stay N,
shoulder straps or braces 1 and the yoke straps 46. The yoke straps 46 I connect at
their end to the collar and at their lower end to the vertical stays A and D, Figure 1,
and to the shoulder straps or braces 1 by cross strips 47, said yoke straps being also
secured to the central stay M by the straps 48 and 49, one end of each strap being
fastened to the yoke straps by rivets 50, the opposite end portion of the straps 48
and 49 being connected to the central stay M by screw 51, which screw passes through
one of the perforations of the said straps and central stay M; consequently, said
straps, by releasing the screw, may be swung up and down as required.
The back sections of the form are composed of the vertical stays G, H, I and J, K, L.
These stays are provided with a series of perforations 52; and each stay is composed
of a series of sections, Figure 2, adjustably secured together by screws 53, same as the
stays composing the front sections. Vertical stays I and L are secured at their upper
end by rivets 54 to sections e of the arm size; while stays G, H and J, K, have their
upper end fastened to shoulder straps 1 by screws 2 and 55, the upper end of the
back central stay N, which is also provided with a series of perforations 50 and
composed of a series of sections united by screws 57 is connected to one of the collar
plates by screws 58. The vertical stays G and J are adjustably connected to the
back and central stay N by screws 62. These connecting straps are provided witn
perforations 63 through one of which the screw 62 passes. By adjusting the position
of the connecting straps 59 and 60, the straps (+ and J may be moved toward or from
the central back stay.
The straps H, I, are connected together by the bands 64, 65 and 66, which bands
are secured to the stays by rivets 67, the free or projecting end of said bands being
secured to the side stay O by the screws 13; while the stays K and L are connected
by the bands 68, 69 and 70, said bands being fastened thereto by rivets 71, the free
or projecting end of the bands being connected to side stay P by the screws 13.
Connection is further made between the side stay O, vertical stays I, H, and G, and
side stay P and vertical stays L, K, and J, by means of the bands 72 and 73, which
bands are secured at one end to the stays G and J respectively by screws 74 and 75
and the opposite end to the side stays O and P by screws 13, said bands being united
to the stays H, I and K, L, by rivets 76. Each of the bands described have the
perforations 77 cut therein; consequently, wherever a union is made by a screw
passing through one of the perforations, the same may be readily adjusted at such
point by changing the connecting screw from one perforation to another. The stays
H, I and K, L, are also connected by the straps 77 and 78, one end of strap 77 being
secured to stay H by rivet 79 and the opposite end to stay I by screw 80; while one
end of strap 78 is secured to stay K by rivet 81 and the opposite end to stay L by
serew 82. These straps being provided with perforations 83, it is obvious that by
changing the screws the straps may be given adjustment.
The stay H is connected to stay G by the perforated straps 84, one end of the
straps being connected to the stay H by rivets 85, and the opposite end to the stay G
by screw 86; while the stay K is connected to stay J by perforated straps 87, one end
of the straps being secured to the stay K by rivet 88, and the opposite end to stay J
by screw 89, Figure 2.
Connection is made between the shoulder straps 1 and the central back stay N by
the perforated straps 90 and 91; said strap being secured to the shoulder straps by
screws 92, and to said central stay by screw 93.
Connection is made between the arm size and stays K, J, by perforated cross
strap 94, which strap is fastened to one of the plates composing the arm size, and to
stay K by rivets 95, and secured to stay J by screw 96; while connection is made
between stays G, H, and the opposite arm size by cross strap 97, said strap being
secured to stay G by screw 98, and to stay H and one of the plates composing the arm
size by rivets 99.
Each of the vertical stays I secure at its lower end by rivets to the base
plates A1, A2, which plates are adjustably connected in the front and back by the

page_text: perforated straps B1, B2 and C1, C2; the straps B1, B2, being secured to the base plate
by rivets h, hl, and to the front central stay M by screw ; while the straps Ci, C²,
are connected to the base plate by rivets 1, 11, and to back central stay N by
screw 12.
The present bust form may be readily adjusted to correspond to the actual bust
measurement of the human figure; and inasmuch as all the parts are composed of
metal, there is no likelihood of the form collapsing after having been once adjusted.
Inasmuch as the bust form is composed of a number of adjustable vertical stays and
adjustable bands and straps made of metal of such ductility as will readily permit of
bending, so as to correspond to the natural curves of the human form, it is obvious
that the several parts may be so adjusted as to reproduce the bust measurement
exactly of the person for whom the dressmaker desires to make a dress; and each part
being adjustable independent of the others, any defect or malformation of the huinan
figure or bust will be produced in the bust form; hence a deformed person may be as
easily and accurately fitted as one having a perfect form. Each portion of the bust
form is adjusted in accordance with the actual measurement of the person whose form
is to be reproduced.
In large dressmaking establishments my form will be found of utmost importance,
not only in saving repeated calls by customers in order to have the dress tried on
(which is not only exceedingly tiresome and trying to the customer, but to the fitter
as well) but it enables the dressinaker, after once having secured the measurement of
a customer, to make future dresses without the necessity of the customer visiting the
establishment of the dressmaker.
33
If desired the entire form may be constructed of wire or other material, and any
number of sections may be used as necessity requires. The expressions "stays
"bands" or "straps" are used as synonyms in the present application.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
1. As a new article of manufacture, a bust form for dressinaking and similar
purposes, said form being composed of a series of adjustable vertical stays, shaped to
conform to the outline of the human form, and a series of adjustable bands stays or
connecting straps, said bands stays or straps being adjustably secured to the vertical
stays.
2. In a bust form, the combination with the vertical adjustable stays, the central
front and back adjustable stays, the adjustable side stays, the adjustable hip, waist,
and bust bands or stays forming connection between the vertical stays and the side
stays, and the straps forming adjustable connection between the stays A, D, G, J, and
the front and back central stays.
3. In a bust form composed of sections, each section comprising a series of
adjustable vertical stays, said stays being connected to each other and to adjustable
side vertical stays by adjustable cross bands and connecting straps and to adjustable
metallic front and back central stays by adjustable straps, each section being capable
of adjustment independent of the other, either vertically or laterally.
4. As a new article of manufacture, a bust form for dressmaking and similar
purposes, said form being composed of a series of vertical adjustable stays united to
vertical adjustable side and front and back stays by adjustable bands and connecting
straps, whereby the form may have lateral and vertical adjustment, the stays and
connecting straps being of material sufficiently ductile to permit of being readily bent
to conform to the shape of the human figure, and of such rigidity as to resist collapsing
after the form has been completed.