Improvements in Apparatus to be Employed in Producing Imitation Swiss Embroidery and other Combination Lace or Laces in Twist Lace Machines.
Year: 1884

page_text: Improvements in Apparatus to be Employed in Producing
Imitation Swiss Embroidery and other Combination Lace
or Laces in Twist Lace Machines.
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Figure 1 shows my Improved Guide bar in the position it occupies when working
with spring jacks in a Twist Lace Machine.
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Figure 2 shows the same guide bar in the position it occupies when working
with jacks operated by a locker bar or bars.
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Figure 3 shows a front view of portion of one such bar.
Figure 4 shows in side view a bar carrying three sets of guides.
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Figures 5 to 14 show side views of the cam wheels I employ to traverse my
improved guide bar the jack bar and others guide bars working with it.
* 1 Heretofore when making imitation swiss embroidery or other combination
lace in twist lace Machines two or more guide bars each supplied with threads from
spools have been employed with one warp bar each such bar being traversed by a
separate cam wheel, Instead of such two or more guide bars I only employ one
guide bar A with a warp bar, and provide the one guide bar with two or three rows
of guides one such improved guide bar A carrying two full sets of guides is shown
in side view at Figures 1 and 2 and a front view at Figure 3. An Improved guide
bar B carrying three full sets of guides is shown in side view at Figure 4 or instead
of three sets of guides in one bar I employ two sets of guides in one bar one of
which is bent over outwards at a right angle and is pierced with two holes shown
in side view at Figure "1.
When making imitation Swiss embossed lace I employ an improved guide bar A
traversed by the cam wheel Figura " 5. The jack bar or locker bar being operated
by the cam wheel Figure "11. The back guides being supplied with thick threads
from spools and the front guides with thin threads from spools, they are moved as
follows when the Carriages are in the back combs I move the guide bar A two gates,
the jacks are selected and enter the thick threads and the bar rises one more gate,
a selection is made by the jacquard and the jacks enter the fine thre ids and the
guide bar rises one more gate (The fine spool guides make two different kinds of

page_text: cloth work the back guides make cloth on the top of fine cloth work, thus I produce
three different kinds of cloth work with one guide bar carrying two sets of guides,
if all the jacks are left out of the threads I am enabled to make four gate work or
two gate work, and to place three threads on the jacks with the back guides and one
with the front guides.)
The carriages then pass into the front combs and while there the jacks are drawn
clear of the threads, the bar A. drops three gates and the jacks are selected and enter
the thick spool threads the bar A rises one gate then the jacks enter the fine spool
threads and the bar drops two gates to the dead stop I am thus enabled to leave
two threads on the jacks with the back guides and three threads with the front
guides, producing three and four gate work with the back guides and two or four
gate work with the front guides. Working with the double guide spool bar A is
the usual warp bar O which is operated by a cam wheel in the ordinary way the
warp bar being placed in front of my improved double guide bar.
2 When making another kind of imitation swiss combination embossed lace, when
the pattern is drafted in the ordinary way I employ an improved guide bar A
traversed by the cam wheel Figure "6 the jack or locker bar being operated by the
cam wheel Figure 11 the warp bar C being placed behind the spool bar A being
operated as required by its cam wheel 9 in the usual way.
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The back guides in the bar A being supplied with fine spool threads and the front
guides'with thick spool threads their movements are as follows, when the carriages
are in the back combs the spool bar A rises one gate and the warp bar one gate, a
selection is made by the jacquard and the jacks enter the fine threads the bar A rises
one more gate and all the jacks enter the fine threads then the jacks are selected and
* enter the thick threads the spool bar A then rises two gates (which enables me to
make two gate work with the fine threads, and three and four gate work with the
thick threads), the carriages then pass into the front combs, and all the jacks are
drawn clear of the threads, the spool bar A falls two gates and all the jacks enter
the fine threads the bar drops one gate, and the jacks enter the thick threads and
the bar falls one gate to the dead stop and the carriages pass into the back combs.
3 To make heavy embossed work on imitation swiss Lace I employ the double
V guide bar A cam wheel Figure 7 the jack bar or locker bar being operated by the
cam wheel Figure 11 the back row of guides in the bar A being supplied with thick
threads and the front row with fine threads, the carriages being in the back combs,
the spool bar rises two gates the jacks enter the thick threads a selection is made
by the jacquard the jacks enter the fine threads the spool bar rises two gatos thus
placing three threads on a jack which enables me to make heavy embossed imitation
swiss lace with one double guide spool bar which traversed by the cut of whoels
shown rises four gates, the carriages pass into the front combs, the jacks are drawn
clear of the threads the spool bar falls two gates and the jacks enter the thick
threads, a fresh selection is made, the jacks enter the fine threads the spool bar
drops two gates to the dead stop which is shown by the cut of wheels. The spool
guide bar moves four gates up and down the thick threads making three gate work
and the fine thread making two gate and four gate work.
4 Lace Makers understand how double action two and three gate or two and four
gate work is made with one spool bar and one warp bar but by employing a spool
guide bar A carrying two full sets of guides and cain wheel Figure 8 and jack bar
or locker bar cam wheel Figure 11 I am able to make double action work on double
action work I make single tie net with either or both guides in the spool bar or
I make double tie net with either or both guides in the spool bar fine spool threads
being in the back guides and course spool threads in the front guides, when a
selection is made the spool bar A rises three gates the warp bar C being at the back
rises one gate, the jacks enter the fine spool threads and the spool bar rises one gate
and the carriages pass into the front combs, the jacks are all drawn clear of the
threads and the spool bar drops two gates, the jacks enter the fine threads, a
selection is made by the jacquard the jacks enter the thick threads the spool bar
falls two gates to the deap stop, the spool bar rising four gates and falling four

page_text: gates as shown by Figure 8 I am thus enabled to make fine two gate cloth work with
the fine spool threads and heavy two gate cloth work with the thick spool threads.
5 And by employing only one bar carrying two full sets of guides I am enabled
to make combination nip work either with spool threads in both sets of guides or
spool threads in one set of guides and warp threads in the other set of guides
A selection of the jacks having been made the guide bar A rises two gates the jacks
enter the back threads a second selection is made the jacks enter the front threads
the guide bar A rises one gate the carriages then pass into the front combs the
bar A falls three gates and the carriages pass into the back combs and the
movements are repeated.
6 Lace Makers understand how double action two and three gate work or two
and four gate work is made with one spool bar and one warp bar, but by employing
my improved guide bar A carrying two full sets of guides I am enabled to make
two and four gate double action work with one set of guides and Madras lace with
the other set of guides splitting either up according as the pattern is drafted by
employing a double set of spools and placing the jacks in the threads of the back
guides or the front guides according to the jack or locker bar cam wheel employed.
7 When making a fabric with a combination of four colours I employ my
improved guide bar A and enter two colours in the back set of guides and two
colours in the front set of guides and operate the bar with the cam wheel Figure 10,
while the carriages are in the back combs a selection of the jacks is made the bar
rises two gates, the jacks enter the back threads and the bar rises one gate, and the
remainder of the jacks enter the back threads, the bar drops two gates and the jacks
enter the front threads, the bar rises one gate the carriages pass into the threads
and while in the threads the bar rises one gate the carriages pass into the front
combs tho bar drops two gates, a selection of the jacks is made for the back threads,
the guide bar falls one gate and the remainder of the jacks are placed in the back
threads a selection is made for the front threads the bar rises two gates, the jacks
enter the front threads and the bar drops one gate, the carriages pass into the
threads and while in, the bar drops one gate to the dead stop I am thus enabled to
make three or four gate work with the back threads and two gate work with the
front threads. Instead of employing the cam wheel Figure 11 I may employ
either of those shown at Figures 12. 13 or 14 to operate the jack bar or locker bar
according to the fabric required to be made.
Thus by simply connecting the spool bar A and warp bar C together I am
enabled to traverse them with one or other of the cam wheels shown instead of
employing two wheels as heretofore.
And by employing one guide bar A carrying three or more rows of guides and
entering the warp threads in its front row of guides and the spool threads in the
remaining rows of guides or by entering the warp threads in the back row of guides
and the spool threads in the remaining rows of guides I can dispense with the warp
bar and its operating wheel.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that
what I claim: is the construction and employment of a guide bar containing two
or more rows of guides parallel with each other in a twist lace machine substantially
as described and illustrated in the drawings annexed.
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