provements in Knitted Shirts, and in the Method of Manufacturing the same.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 27th June, 1893
Complete Specification Left, 16th Mar., 1894-Accepted, 21st Apr., 1894
IRUVIDIONAL SIECIFICATION
Improvements in Knitted Shirts, and in the Method of Manufacturing
the same.
A communication from abroad by MULFORD MARSH DUNN, of 28, Townsend
Street, Boston, in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of
America.
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES of 55 & 56 Chancery Lane in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent do hereby declare the nature of this invention to
be as follows:
This invention has for its object the production of a novel knitted shirt by a
novel method, said shirt having a collar knitted thereto, and open in front to be
folded over or down to resemble a so-called "sailor-collar."
وو
"
Prior to this invention, knitted garments of the class designated as "sweaters
have had long collars made tubular by a seam or seams, the collars being folded or
doubled in their length.
My correspondent has aimed to improve this class of shirt and to adapt it for
more extended use, and this he has done by making the collar open in front.
In the manufacture of the improved knitted shirt, I first set-up upon a part of the
needles of a knitting machine,-preferably a machine of the so-called Lamb class, it
having two rows of inclined needles adapted in their knitting movements to cross
each other, a sufficient number of loops for the production of a piece of knitted
web of suitable length for the collar of the shirt to be produced, the knitting being
commenced at the edge and ending at where a part, say substantially one-fourth,
the loops at each end are run off.
The neck so produced has two selvage edges and a portion of the loops at certain
points between the parts remain on the needles.
In this condition the knitter again sets-up loops on a sufficient number of needles
at the right and left of the said point, to form the shoulders for the back of the
shirt, and starts the machine, supplying yarn to such needles and also to the
needles between the said points, thus knitting not only on the needles on which
the loops were so set-up but also on the needles holding the collar from the said
points, the knitting being continued until the rear part or back of the shirt is of
the proper length, when the back will be run off the needles.
The front half of the shirt having been knitted, the collar is then folded in such
direction as to bring the two selvage edges substantially together, or nearly so, to
thus constitute a neck, and then the loops along the edge, previously cast off as
stated before knitting the back of the body, are picked upon the needles of the
knitting machine together with the loops of the shoulder part of the back.
This done, all the needles referred to are again supplied with thread and the
knitting is resumed until a piece of fabric has been knitted as an extension of the
front of the collar, the one portion so produced constituting the front half of
the shirt, it being of any desired or suitable length.
The front and back may be knitted as flat straight webs upon the lower end of
the collar, the latter being open in front.
To complete the shirt, the back and the front will be brought together and the
two side edges of the front will be stitched to the two side edges of the back,
leaving, however, suitable openings, for the armholes, and to these openings may be
attached in any suitable manner suitable sleeves if desired.

page_text: In use, the collar may be turned back, down and over, so that the collar presents
the appearance of a so-called "sailor-collar."
The garment described made as set forth, is well adapted for use by ladies
engaged in athletic work, and is found to be very desirable for use of mariners and
seafaring men where a regulation turn-down collar is considered essential.
Dated the 26th day of June 1893.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Knitted Shirts, and in the Method of Manufacturing
the same.
A communication from abroad by MULFORD MARSH DUNN, of 28, Townsend
Street, Boston, in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of
America, Bookkeeper.
I ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES of 55 & 56 Chancery Lane in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object the production of a novel knitted shirt by a
novel method, said shirt having a collar knitted thereto, and open in front to be
folded over or down to resemble a so-called "sailor-collar."
"
Prior to this invention, knitted garments of the class designated as "Sweaters
have had long collars made tubular by a seam or seams, the collars being folded or
doubled in their length.
My correspondent has aimed to improve this class of shirt and to adapt it for
more extended use, and this he has done my making the collar open in front.
Fig. 1 shews the collar portion of the improved garment, together with the back
of the shirt, they being made before the front of the shirt;
Fig. 2, shows the collar portion folded together and with the front of the shirt
knitted to it.
Fig. 3 shews the collar united to the front and back, the latter not yet having
been united, and
Fig. 4 shews the parts shewn in Fig. 3 brought together into shirt form with the
collar turned over.
In the manufacture of the improved knitted shirt, I first set-up upon a part of
the needles of a knitting machine-preferably a machine of the so-called Lamb
class, it having two rows of inclined needles adapted in their knitting movements
to cross each other, a sufficient number of loops for the production of a piece of
knitted web A, see Fig. 1, of suitable length for the collar of the shirt to be
produced, the knitting being commenced at the edge a, and ending at a', where a
part, say substantially one fourth, the loops at each end are run off.
The neck so produced has two selvage edges a³, a², and a portion of the loops
between the parts 10, 10, remain on the needles.
In this condition the knitter again sets-up loops on a sufficient number of
needles at the right and left of the point 10, to form the shoulders for the back B
of the shirt, and starts the machine, supplying yarn to such needles and also to
the needles between the points 10-10, thus knitting not only on the needles on
which the loops were so set up but also on the needles holding the collar from
the points 10-10, the knitting being continued until the rear part or back B of the
shirt is of the proper length when the back will be run off the needles.
The front half of the shirt having been knitted, the collar is then folded in such
direction as to bring the two selvage edges a², a³, substantially together, or nearly

page_text: so, to thus constitute a neck, as in Fig. 2, and then the loops along the edge a',
previously cast off as stated before knitting the back B of the body, are picked
upon the needles of the knitting machine together with the loops from 6 to 6' of
the shoulder part of the back.
This done, all the needles referred to are again supplied with thread and the
knitting is resumed until a piece of fabric B¹ has been knitted as an extension of
the front of the collar A, the portion B' so produced constituting the front half of
the shirt, it being of any desired or suitable length.
Fig. 3 shews the front and back knitted as flat straight webs upon the lower end
of the collar, the latter being open in front, as at g.
To complete the shirt, the back B and the front B will be brought together
and the two side edges of the front will be stitched to the two side edges of the
back, as represented at h, h, Fig, 4 leaving, however, suitable openings as c³, for
the arm holes, and to these openings may be attached in any suitable manner
suitable sleeves if desired.
In use the collar A may be turned back, down and over as represented in Fig. 4
so that the collar presents the appearance of a so-called "sailor collar."
The garment described made as set forth, is well adapted for use by ladies
engaged in athletic work, and is found to be very desirable for use of mariners and
seafaring men where a regulation turn-down collar is considered essential.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. A knitted garment composed of a front and back and having a long collar open
in front and knitted to the back and to the front of the shirt, the collar having
selvage edges and being adapted to be turned over and laid down as a sailor collar,
substantially as described.
2. In the method of knitting shirts, the following steps, viz. :-knitting a collar;
running off a portion of the loops from each corner of the collar toward the back
of the collar; supplying yarn to the needles from which the collar loops were so
run off and as many more as are necessary and to the needles yet holding a part of
the collar; and knitting on said needles and to the back of the collar the back of
the shirt; then picking on to the needles the loops of the collar which were
previously run off as stated, and also the loops at the shoulder part of the back of
the shirt; supplying all said needles with yarn; and knitting on the said needles
to the shoulder tops of the back and to the loops of the front of the collar, the
front of the shirt; continuing the knitting until the front is of the proper length,
and thereafter uniting the side edges of the front and back together leaving suitable
arm holes, substantially as described.
Dated the 1L 1
1004
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.