IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR APPLIANCES
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Moore Clements, of Birminghani, in the
County of Warwick, Sewing Machine Maker, for tlie Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR APPLIANCES."
Sealed the 2nd October. 1869, and dated the 31st July 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Moore Clements
at the Office of the Commissioners of l'atents, with his Petition,
on the 31st July 1869.
I, JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS, of Birmingham, in the County, of
Warwick, Sewing Machine Maker, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR
APPLIANCES," to be as follows, that is to say:-
The first part of my Invention refers to certain improvements upon
sewing machines for working button holes, described in the Specifications
of two former Patents granted to me and dated respectively the 31st
day of March 1862 and the 22nd day of May 1865.
These improvements consist of an improved feed arrangement, by

page_text: 66
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when working upon the upper surface of the material, so that when the
straight step-by-step movement has been continued as far as required
the circular "* step-by-step movement may be carried on, with this
difference that the cloth presser shall move the work in the arc of a
circle eccentric to the needle.
I also obtain an extra movement to the "hanging bar " for the purpose
of delivering the loop into the hook in a different manner to that
specified in my former Patents, whereby one to-and-fro motion of the
shuttle therein employed is dispensed with here.
I also form a clamp for the purpose of holding the material whilst
the button hole is being cut, the said clamp being placed upon a carrier
plate working in a guiding groove or guide or slot upon the bed plate of
the machine, so that when the button hole to be worked with its holding
clamp is put into position under the machine, a horizontal or vertical
cam working beneath the bed plate propels the carrier plate down
the straight part of such guide, when the carrier plate will be. taken
hold of by a revolving horizontal feed wheel which from its peculiar
construction will carry it round one-half of a revolution, and by the
shape of the carrier plate, guide, and horizontal feed wheel, and the
recess in which such feed wheel travels the carrier plate will be pro-
pelled down the corresponding second straight side of the guide. This
carrier plate and the guide plates are so formed that each half revolution
is a counterpart of the other, and is intended to represent the complete
form of a button hole. The clamp holder is made to fit upon the bed
of the button hole cutter press, so that there shall be no variation in
the position of the cut, and when the clamp is taken off the cutter
press and placed upon the carrier plate there is a corresponding recess
to receive the bottom of the clamp, and so ensure the button hole
taking its exact position with regard to the needle.
I also fix two plungers one above and one below the bed plate of
the machine, and form a right and a left handed screw one to each
plunger, and a horse shoe lever having corresponding tapped nuts upon
the extremity of each arm, so that by a half revolution of the lever
the two plungers may be brought together with sufficient force to cut
the material. A more simple but less accurate form of cutter I
to make by having a cutter to fit into the top of the clanip with a screw
upon the shank, and a corresponding bed with screwed shank to meet
the cutter, thereby dispensing with the plungers before described. To
propose

page_text: enable the button hole to be cut it is necessary that there should be
sufficient length in the straight part of the guides to permit the punch
and bed to meet together for the longest hole that may be required to
each end of the carrier plate, and also an extra length, namely, the
extent of the distances between the ends of the punch and the points
of perforation of the needle, the feed wheel being free to be moved
such distance by hand without moving the other parts of the machine,
the arrangement being such that the feed wheel may be moved forward
by hand but not backward.
Again, my improvements consist of an arrangement of a tension lever
so that when the thread or other sewing material is being pulled tight
in the machine after the completion of the stitch it shall not depend
upon the regularity with which it can run through or around any
appliance for the purpose, but shall be gripped and held tight between
a tension lever or swinging arm having a friction spring and set screw
to give a varying tensile strain at the will of the operator, and also
with an alternate action to pull the thread off the reel and again to
draw the stitch tight.
Another part of my improvements has reference to an arrangement
of two needles set at a convenient angle and curved or not as may
be required, so that each needle shall enter the loop formed by the
partial return of the other needle, thereby forming a double purl upon
the edge of the material. This part of my Invention I purpose applying
to a machine for working fine shirt button holes, or embroidering upon
the edge or in the body of any article of clothing such as ladies' skirts
or other like garments. When the arrangement is used for the purpose
of working button holes it is preferable to so arrange the tension lever
or the thread tightener that it shall draw up the stitch when the points
of the needles have just entered or are below the surface of the fabric.
I can also use this arrangement in combination with a straight needle
and shuttle, so that by removing a stud working in a slot or by
withdrawing the moving part adapted for button holes altogether the
machine can be used also for the purpose of the usual lock stitch sewing.
One such arrangement consists of a needle arm oscilating upon the
centre at one end and carrying a curved needle at the other end with
its long groove on the outer curve instead of on its flat side, and with a
shuttle carrier oscilating upon a centre at one end and carrying a
shuttle filled with cotton or other sewing material at the other end,

page_text: and working at an angle which I prefer to be other than a right angle
with the plane of the motion of the needle, the shuttle carrier having
a recess in which the shuttle shall lie so arranged that the front of
the shuttle shall be free to enter the loop when formed by the partial
upward stroke of the needle; the said needle and shuttle carrier derive
their motion from either single or double eccentrics upon the main
driving shaft, and being connected therewith by swinging arms and
ball-and-socket, star, or other suitable universal joints.
I propose using for these machines a silent feed motion deriving its
action from an eccentric upon the main shaft in such manner that the
reciprocating up-and-down motion for the purpose of bringing the
toothed feeder in contact with the work shall be positive or unvarying,
but the to-and-fro motion requisite to give the varying length of stitch
can be obtained by a lever hanging from a fulcrum placed vertically
above the eccentric, the said lever having a slot or other similar con-
trivance for connecting the lift feeding bar, so that the nearer the one
end of the connecting rod is to the centre of the motion of the hanging
lever the less will be the stitch produced, and contrariwise the nearer
the end of the connecting rod is to the eccentric which gives it motion
the longer will be its stroke and the longer the stitch.
When the sewing part of the machine is required to be removed the
shuttle lever must be disconnected and the lever giving motion to the
button hole attachment connected, when the vertical and under curved
needle will be brought into such a position that at every revolution of
the main shaft the loop of each needle shall be engaged with the other
and form a double purl stitch over the edge or through the body of
the material, as the case may be. I propose in using this part of my
Invention to employ sometimes a straight needle of such a form and
length as to dispense with the usual needle bar, such needle to have
an eye near the point and a corresponding long eye near the top, with
a coiled spring working under such long eye, and of such a length that
it shall perform the requisite movements usually done by the needle
bar in drawing the stitch tight. When I use this description of needle,
I propose to make it work free in bearings in the framing of the machine,
such bearings to be eccentric to the vertical axis of the needle, so that
by a partial turn of a lever the needle will descend in a different place
to its former position. I also propose to use the under curved or other
needle in such a way that in combination with any vertical needle in any

page_text: machine, it may by the same or similar arrangement be made to produce
the same stitch. I also propose to use in the place of the usual cog
wheels employed for giving motion to sewing machines a wheel made
by inserting a series of wire pegs at equal distances in a groove cast
in the periphery of the wheel for the purpose of engaging, with the
teeth of a small wheel on the driving shaft, thereby giving a much
easier and more silent motion to the machine when driven by hand;
or I can make the periphery of one wheel by stamping apertures in a
band of metal and afterwards turning up such band into a hoop.
My Invention further refers to the arrangement or construction of
a machine for the purpose of sewing on a flat braid trimming or strips
of satin or other material in such manner that the outside of such
trimming shall not be held down or flattened by stitches, but shall stand
up like a tube or cord. For this purpose I use by preference a single
thread loop stitch machine having a bent regulating guide underneath
the bed plate which may be adjusted accordingly to the width of the
trimming to be sewn, and the guide to be of such a curve that it
shall guide the trimming from a flat shape until the two edges shall
overlap and form a tube; at the point of entry of the needle the guide
is fixed on the opposite side of the bed of the machine to that on which
the work is placed, and enters a slot cut in the bed plate, such slot
being in shape similar to the section of a tube cut in a diagonal line,
into which guide that part of the plate in front of the needle hole
shall bear the working parts of a peculiar shaped under looper. This
portion of my Invention may be used to sew a flat strip of any material
into the form of a tube by folding and sewing the two edges flat one
upon the other. This form of machine and looper when slightly
modified I employ for the purpose of sewing beads in patterns or designs
upon fabrics and using by preference a top feeder working on the upper
surface of the cloth or other material, a shallow receptacle to receive
the beads being placed under the bed plate of the machine, and by a
lever and spring so holding the bead that an eye-pointed needle shall
carry the thread through the fabric, then through the bed plate, and.
then through the bead, and forming a loop to be held by the looper
until the needle has performed a repetition of its motion, and entered.
the previous loop, which is now liberated by the looper previous to its
engaging with the second loop, and the bead is thus held on the double,
loop between each perforation of the needle. This machine will require

page_text: a suitably formed recess at the back of the needle to allow of the ready
turning of the ornamental design formed by the beads upon the fabric.
Another part of my Invention consists in sewing what may be called
the crossed herring bone stitch in contradistinction to the zig-zag stitch
by using two needles and two shuttles, and by such an arrangement that
two rows of plain machine sewing or a row of herring bone stitch can
be worked at pleasure. This I effect by placing two needles on the
outside lower edge of a hollow needle bar, and by putting the thread
spools upon its top with the thread passing down the inside, and make
it perform a half revolution backwards and forwards at every alternate
stroke of the needle bar; to prevent the drawing together of the cross
stitch I propose to place the cloth presser so that the stitch shall be
formed upon it and by the progressive movement of the work it shall
be withdrawn.
My Invention further consists in constructing a machine for the
sewing of heavy bodies such as carpets, thick cloths, or sails, so that
the two breadths of the material to be sewn are laid upon a platform
with the edges in contact but not upon each other, and such edges
running in a peculiar formed guide fixed on each side of the machine,
the needle will by an alternate lateral vibration enter first one edge
and then the other, and by being interlooped with a shuttle thread join
the two edges. This machine has most of its working parts under the
level of the work to be sewn for the purpose of enabling the operator
to see more clearly the work the machine is doing. I form a needle
carrier working in a groove below the table of sufficient length to carry
the needle over the upper side of the material to be sewn, and also
place a presser plate in the same position above the material; the needle
slide guide will oscilate upon a centre or fulcrum above the surface
of the material for the purpose of taking a less hold on the upper
surface of the selvedge than below it, the shuttle will traverse in a line
at right angles to the passage of the machine, and will receive its
motion, as also the needle and feed wheels, by cams or eccentrics placed
upon the main shafts under the bed of the machine. In the case of
sewing carpets to enable the operator to match the pattern with accuracy
I propose to put two feed bars or wheels one on each side of the needle,
and to so arrange a handle or handles that the motion of either feed
wheel can be increased or lessened in its action as the pattern may
require. This part of my Invention I propose to construct so that the

page_text: machine and treadle shall form a carriage with a seat for the operator,
and travel from end to end of the carpet as it is laid upon the platform,
being supported and guided by suitable guide rails. I propose to effect
the traverse of the machine along its guide ways by the step-by-step
motion of the feed wheels acting upon the material, and also a wheel.
in connection therewith acting upon the guide rails on either side. I
also propose to lay under each stitch as it is made by the needle a
warp or layer of woollen yarn similar in color or colors to the carpet
being sewn, and when required to form the same into loops in a similar
manner to which the surface of the carpet is made, such warps to be
varied in color when required, and if requisite the loop to be cut to
represent the cut pile of the carpet.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters l'atent,
filed by the said James Moore Clements in the Great Seal l'atent
Office on the 31st January 1870.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS. SHALL COME, I, JAMES
MOORE CLEMENTS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Sewing
Machine Maker, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of July, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
third year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said James Moore Clements, Her special licence
that I, the said James Moore Clements, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Moore Clements,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should in any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter;
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR APPLIANCES," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said James Moore Clements,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
mny, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
•

page_text: manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Moore Clements, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:-
The Drawings, Sheet 1, illustrate various improvements upon the
sewing machines for working button holes described in the Specifications
of two former Patents granted to me, and dated respectively the Thirty-
first day of March, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and sixty-two, and the Twenty-second day of May, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Figure 1 is a front elevation; Figure 2, a side elevation; Figure 3, a
plan seen from above; Figure 4, a front elevation with the mover in its
second position. These Drawings represent the several parts forming my
improved feed arrangement. And Figure 5 is an elevation of the conical
mover cam. (a) is a circular needle bar holding a needle (b) eccentric
to the centre of the needle bar. The needle bar (a) works in suitable
bearings (h) and receives its vibrating motion from a cam by means of
the lever (c) in the usual manner. (d) is the mover pressing upon the
fabric and working freely in the slot of the oscillating mover carriage (e)
and oscillating upon a centre (f), shewn in Figures 2 and 3. The
oscillating mover carriage (e) is formed with two ears sufficiently long
to extend over the casting or frame of the machine, shewn in dotted
lines (g) Figure 3, but omitted in the other Figures for the sake of
simplicity, and having two holes through which the needle bar passes,
it is thereby held in position by the needle bar and its bearings (h), as
shewn attached to the framing of the machine in Figure 3. (i) is a
lever receiving a vertical motion from a suitable cam and having two
prongs or clips which partly encircle the conical cam (k) which is free
to move either vertically or to revolve upon the needle bar (a).
The operation of these parts will be as follows:-When the needle is
withdrawn from the material the pronged end of the lever (i) will have
a downward stroke given to it by the action of the cam and will carry
with it the conical cam (%) until it comes in contact with the mover,
at (1) Figure 2, and by the action of the two inclined planes will prope!

page_text: the mover and with it the work in a straight line. The action of these
inclined planes is not new having been used in ordinary sewing
machines, but the application of them to button hole machines for the
purpose of propelling the button hole down its straight side and its
circular end by the same mover is new, and this latter action is obtained
by forming a curved slot in the cam (k), Figure 5, such slot being
brought over the point (d), Figure 2, at the will of the operator by
means of the handle (m), Figure 2. The conical cam () in its down-
ward stroke instead of forcing the mover (d) in a straight line parallel
with the groove in the mover carriage (e) will propel the mover and
carriage (e) in the arc of a circle as they revolve upon the needle
bar (a), such are being eccentric to the perforation of the needle. The
liberation of the mover (d) during its return stroke is effected by the
usual method, but is omitted in the Drawings; a spring (n) is attached
to the mover carriage and the casting at (n) for the purpose of bringing
back the mover carriage to its original position upon the withdrawal of
the groove () of the conical cam (k). This partly circular action is
repeated at every stitch so long as the handle (m), Figure 2, lies in
contact with the needle bar carrier (h), but when the handle is with-
drawn a small notched spring (o), Figures 1 and 5, will hold the cam (k)
in its relative position to the needle bar carrier (h).
Figures 6, 7, and 8 represent my improved form of hanging bar for
delivering the loop into the barbed hook described in my former Speci-
fication, with this difference, the silk being laid by the passage of the
hooks in the groove (a), Figures 6 and 8, the bar (b) will receive a
backward instead of a forward motion, thereby bringing the groove (c)
over the aperture (d) in the bed plate (e) (through which the barbed
hook has risen) and the hanging bar will remain there until the barbed
hook descends carrying with it the silk held in the groove (a); previous
to the second rising of the barbed hook the bar (b). will have assumed its
original position, and at the second descent of the barbed hook the
groove (f) will by a forward movement of the barb. (b) be brought over
the aperture (d) in the bed plate. By this improvement I am enabled
to present the loop formed by the barbed hook in such a position that
it will enable me to dispense with one of the to-and-fro movements of
the shuttle in completing a stitch.
Figures 9 to 17 inclusive shew my improvements in holding apparatus
for clamping and guiding the button hole whilst being. worked; Figure 9.

page_text: is a plan of the clamp seen from above, the one-half being closed as it
will appear when holding the material, the other half shewn open
preparatory to the insertion of the fabric; Figure 10 is a side elevation
of the clamp, shewn in part section through A, B, Figure 9; Figure 11
is a plan of the plate with its guiding grooves on which the clamp works
and having an aperture (C) through which the button hole cutter and
die can meet. (D) is an opening covered by a lid for the purpose of
putting the shuttle into the shuttle race; (E) is a half-round stud or
button standing above the surface of the bed plate and having a slot or
needle hole through which the needles of the machine shall work, the
stud (E) being of sufficient width to work in the groove (F) formed in
the base (a) of the clamp Figure 9. Figure 12 is a wheel having single
or double spiral cam grooves, the double being shewn, this is for the
purpose of operating the clamp, Figure 9, and is placed beneath the
guide plate, Figure 11; Figure 13 is a detached view of one of the parts
of the spiral grooves of the cam wheel Figure 12; Figure 14 shews the
clamp in position upon the guide plate, Figure 11, with the cam wheel,
Figure 12, shewn in dotted lines beneath it; Figure 15 shews merely
the cam wheel, Figure 12, without its spiral grooves in its position on
the machine with the moving lever and connecting links through which
it receives its motion; Figure 16 is a part elevation and part section' of
such parts of the machine as are necessary to show the application of
my improvements and illustrating the spiral groove cam, Figure 12, the
guide plate, Figure 11, and the clamp, Figure 10, in section at (A, B,)
Figures 11 and 12; Figure 17 is a detached view of the connection
between the moving lever and the spiral groove cam.
The working of these parts is as follows:-In Figure 10 (a) is the
bottom part of the clamp which holds the material to be sewn, and has
a roughened or serrated surface for the more effectual gripping of the
material; (b) is the upper or hinged part of the clamp, shewn closed
at (c), which is forced with great pressure upon the material by means
of the handle (d) working upon a fulcrum (e) and having an inclined
or wedged-shaped form at (f); (g) and (h) are pegs with friction rollers
placed below the under part of the base (a), and which are for the
purpose of working in and below the guiding groove (J), Figure 11.
These pegs and rollers are propelled by the spiral grooves Figure 12
which work beneath the guide plate. (k), Figure 12, are the spiral
grooves intersecting each other and cut in the face of a horizontal cam

page_text: wheel for the purpose of engaging with and propelling the carrier
plate (F), Figure 10; (l) is a circular groove cut in the same cam
plate on its upper and under surface, and is for the purpose of receiving
a loose segment (a), Figure 15, by which it shall receive its motion; (m)
is a segment of a circle, shewn detached, Figure 13, which may be
inserted at each intersection of the spiral cam grooves, and oscillating
upon a centre (n), and is for the purpose of guiding the rollers (g)
and (h), Figure 10, into their proper grooves where the spirals cross
each other and acting as a switch. This switch piece (m) has a stud
at (o) which as the cam revolves will come in contact, first, with a
guiding piece (p) attached to the under side of the guide plate; Figure 11,
which will throw the guiding groove at (K) opposite to the groove at (s),
Figure 12, and as the cam wheel continues its révolution the stud (o)
will come in contact with the corresponding guide piece (9) which
will return the switch to its former position. In Figure 15 (t) is a
lever working upon a fulcrum (a) and receiving its motion from an
ordinary cam (v) and transmitting such motion through the link (w) to
the segment piece (x) which travels freely in the groove (1) of the cam
wheel, Figure 12. As the shaft revolves the cam (v) will give a forward
movement to the lever (t) which will cause the segment (x) to wedge
itself in the groove in which it works, thereby carrying forward with it
the spiral cam groove, Figure 12, its return is ensured by a spring (y),
and the unlocking of the segment (x) is provided for by a link (z)
which connects the end of the lever (t) to the segment (x) and which
has a short slot, by which means the lever (t) in its forward movement
shall actuate the segment (a) through the connecting link (w) but on
its return movement through the connecting link (2). (a), Figure 17,
is a small handle for the purpose of actuating the lever (t) by hand when
desired without operating the machine.
In working a button hole the operations will follow each other thus:-
When the clamp feeder is put into position on the guide plate, Figure 11,
the fabric being placed upon the base (a) and the hinged part (b) wedged
firmly on to it by the handle (d) the material is ready for cutting the
button hole in manner herein-after described, after which operation it is
necessary to bring the part of the button hole where the sewing should
commence under the line of the needle without the machine being
operated; for this purpose the handle (a'), Figure 17, must be worked
by the hand until the clamp has been propelled down
a sufficient
distance. The machine being in operation will; by the intermittent

page_text: motion given to the lever (t), Figure 15, by the cam (v) propel the
carrier plate down the straight slot (2), Figure 11, until the stud
roller (g), Figure 10, arrives at the point (J), Figures 11 and 12, and
the stud roller (h), Figure 10, will have arrived at the point (K), Figures
11 and 12, when the revolution of the spiral cam being continuous the
rollers (g) and (h) will remain at the points (J) and (K), Figure 12, and
will be carried round the circular grooves (i, i,) Figure 11, until the
stud roller (g) arrives at the point (L), Figure 11, and the stud
roller (h) arrives at the point (M), Figure 11, when the spiral groove
will propel the carrier plate down the straight groove until the button
hole has been worked as far as parallel to the point at which it was
commenced; it remains now to liberate the, material by withdrawing
the lever (d) and raising the work from under the clamp, when the
second clamp will be ready in position for inserting a second button
hole to be cut; the length of stitch is determinable as well by the
screw (N), Figure 15. The base (a), Figure 9, containing the fabric to
be cut may be lifted off the guide plate, Figure 11, and placed upon
the bed of the cutter press, such bed having two holes in which the
studs (g) and (h) upon the under part of the base (a) enter, and thereby
ensure the descent of the cutter in its exact position with regard to the
guiding apparatus and the needle. The object of this arrangement is,
that one operator may be employed in cutting the button holes by
means of a series of clamps supplied to one machine without impeding
the working of the machine during the placing and cutting of each
button hole.
When I prefer to cut the button hole without removing the clamp,
I employ a cutter similar to that shewn in Figure 18, which is a horse-
shoe lever punch having a right and left handed. screw; the frame is so
formed as to be screwed on to the casting of the machine by the bolt
holes (a) and (b). The punch has a top plunger (c) working in a hole
of the upper part of the frame at (d), and kept in position by a feather,
as shewn; (e) is a left-handed screw upon the plunger (c), and carrying
a button hole cutter or knife (f) held by a screw; (g) is a corresponding
plunger having a right-handed screw (h), and having a soft metal bed or
counterpart (i), upon which the cutter blade will impinge; (k) is the
oscillating lever, having at (1) and (m) corresponding nuts to fit upon
the screws (e) and (h); it will be seen that by turning the arm (k)
forcibly from the right hand to the left the parts (f) and (i) will be
brought forcibly together and penetrate the fabric (n); it is intended

page_text: that the part (i) shall be made to fit the aperture (c) in Figure 11, but
free to move up and down, and the cutter has a corresponding guide on
the upper parts of the clamp (b) and (c), Figure 9.
A more simple but less accurate form of cutter I propose to make by
having a cutter to fit into a recess in the top of the clamp, and having
a screw upon the shank of the cutter, and a corresponding bed also with
a screwed shank, and the bed working in the slot (c) of the guide plate,
Figure 11, to meet the cutter. The bed and cutter may be actuated and
brought forcibly together by means of a lever similar to (4). Figure 18.
I would remark that in these Drawings several parts of machines
described in the Specifications of my former Patents already alluded to
have necessarily been shewn to illustrate clearly the improvements and
modifications embraced by my present. Invention.
I shall now proceed to point out what the new parts are.
In Figures
1 to 5 inclusive, the parts marked (e, k, l); in Figures 6, 7, 8, the parts
marked (a, d, f); the whole of Figures 9 to 14 inclusive, and the same
parts in position in Figures 15, 16, 17, with the addition of those marked
(t, u, w, x, z, f, a'); and in Figure 18 all the parts, with the exception
of those marked (f, n, i).
Referring to Sheet 2, Figure 1 is a front elevation of my improved
combined button hole and sewing machine; Figure 2 is an end elevation
of such parts as refers to the Invention in part section at (A), Fig. 1;
and Figure 3 is a plan of the machine seen from the under side;
Figure 4 is a detached view of the needle holders and carriers in one
position; and Figure 5 a view of the same parts in a different position;
Figure 6 is a view of the shuttle carrier, shewn in part section, for the
purpose of exhibiting the bolt and coiled spring; Figure 7 shews
detached views of the lifting and moving cams, which are similar to
those in use in ordinary sewing machines; and Figure 8 shews duplicate
cams, which are connected with the cams, Figure 7; their action will
be described hereafter.
(a), Figure 1, is a needle bar carrying a needle (b) working in suitable
bearings, and having a suitable actuating lever; (c), Figure 1, is a
bevilled toothed wheel set at a suitable angle carried upon the main
shaft (d), and engaging with a second bevilled toothed wheel giving
motion to a disc (e); (f) is a connecting rod working upon a pin
attached to the disc (e), and actuating the needle carrier (9); this

page_text: carrier (g) has a curved needle (h) inserted in its upper part, and
travels in the arc of a circle upon the segmental bearing (i), which
is firmly screwed upon the under side of the bed of the machine; the
parts marked (f), (g), and (h) are not clearly shewn in Figure 1; they
also are not clearly shewn in part section in Figure 2, but are shewn in
the same relative position in detached view, Figure 4, and in the under
side plan, Figure 3; the parts (f), (g), and (h) are shewn in the same
position as in the detached view, Figure 5. The parts (e), (f), (g), (h),
and (i) are all placed at a suitable angle to the vertical plane of the
needle (b), as will be seen in Figure 2, and also at an angle to the plane
of revolution of the shaft (d), as shewn in the plan, Figure 3.
(B) is the
framework of the machine; (C) is a lever to actuate the needle bar (a);
(D) is a lever carrying the shuttle (E); (F) is a cam upon the main
shaft (d), and serving to give motion to the needle bar and shuttle
through the parts (C), (D), and (E), which are similar to those used in
ordinary sewing machines. (k), Figures 1, 2, and 3, is the moving bar
propelling the work, and actuated in the usual method by the cams (1; 1;)
Figure 7, whilst sewing, but when the machine is being used for button
holes the double cams (m, m,) Figure 8 are brought to operate upon the
moving bar (k) and give it a double motion. This is effected by the
lever (n) having a stud working in a groove (n') of the cam, which cam
is free to slide backwards and forwards upon the shaft (d), but is carried
round with the shaft by means of a suitable feather inserted in the shaft.
The traverse of the moving bar (4) is controlled by the screw (o) and
the wedge-shaped end of the bar (k); (p) is a screw inserted in the
shaft (d) at an angle, and engaging with the bevilled wheel (c) at. (c¹),
and is for the purpose of connecting it with the shaft (d) as it revolves,
and when the screw (p) is withdrawn from the bevilled wheel (c) the
shaft will be free to revolve without carrying the bevilled wheel (c)
with it, the bevilled wheel (c) being held in gear with its, fellow, by a
screw () running in a groove formed round the shaft (d). (g),. Figure 3,
is a screw forming the one pivot upon which the shuttle lever (d)
oscillates, and this pivot is held in position by the screw (1).
Figure 9 is a front elevation, and Figure 10, a plan from above of
parts of
a Thomas' machine fitted with the several new parts of my improvements,
as last described. The similar parts of the Invention are marked with
the same letter of reference, but instead of the needle (h) being actuated
by a bevilled wheel and link, it is preferable to obtain the requisite

page_text: movement by attaching to the usual shuttle driver a cramp piece (1), a
link (2), a sliding bar (3), carrying a cam (4) with a groove, in which
a friction roller (5) works, which is placed upon the needle carrier (g),
thereby giving the same action to the curved needle (h), with this
exception, that the needle () instead of passing up the slit of the button
hole, will perforate the material and the straight needle will
pass in
the slit of the button hole. To enable the machine to be regulated a
slot is formed on the end of the needle lever with a moveable pin and
roller, shewn detached at (X); the new parts which I thus apply to a
Thomas' machine are those lettered (g), (h), and (i), and those numbered
1 to 4 inclusive.
Figure 11 is a front elevation of parts of a Wheeler and Wilson
machine fitted with the several new parts of my Invention applicable
thereto, for the purpose of performing the same operation; Figure 12
is an end view of the same; Figure 13, a plan; and Figure 14, a front
elevation, full size, of the plate of the machine in section with the curved
needle (h) and its holder, and the method of fixing the same, with the
lever for actuating the parts.
The operation of the machine, Figure 1, will be as follows:-The top
silk, shewn in a red line, is threaded through the holes 1 and 2, and
the staple and eye (3) back through the staple to eye (4), and then
through the eye of the needle (b) the under silk is threaded through
the tension clip (u) under the plate and through the take-up spring (v),
thence to the eye (w) upon the needle carrier (g), shewn detached at
Figures 4 and 5, and, lastly, through the eye of the needle (h). The
machine being in the position shewn at Figure 1, as the shaft (d) revolves
the needle (b) with its one-sided point will descend in the recess of the
curved needle (h) and between the needle and the silk at its back, and
will enter the material. The curved needle (h) is now withdrawn and
assumes the position shewn in plan, Figure 3, and detached at Figure 5,
having left a loop of silk around the needle (b) above the fabric; the
needle (b) having now reached its lowest point, as it rises the curved
needle (h) will advance and pass into the loop formed by the silk passed
through the eye of the needle (b) when the needles (b) and (h) have
assumed their former position, as shewn in Figure 1, a loop of silk will
be held around the curved needle (h) on the under side of the material,
and so on continuously; the form of the thread spring at (5), Figure 1,
is for the purpose of ensuring a loop being formed at the downward

page_text: stroke of the straight needle (b), and this is effected by the pin. (6) in
the needle bar (a) passing over it at the same time that the curved
needle is about to enter the loop formed by the needle (b). When the
button hole has been worked down the straight side the lever (n) is
moved to the left and will cause the double cams (m, m,) to actuate the
mover () whilst the needle (b) is in the material, thereby giving a partial
turn to the fabric, and also when the needle (b) is out of the material,
as in the ordinary manner, gimp can be carried from a reel through the
eye (7), Figures 1 and 2, and through a hole for that purpose in the
cloth presser. When it is required to produce a purl upon both edges
of the material I introduce an upper and under thread tightener, the
upper one working in the place of the thread spring (5) and operated
by the pin (6) working through a slot of such a form that upon the
descent of the needle (b) through the fabric the upper thread tightener
shall pull the thread tight at the time the needle enters the fabric and
before the eye of the needle reaches the fabric. In this case the upper
thread is not passed through the hole in the upper end of the needle bar.
A thread tightener somewhat similar in its operation is centred upon
the under side of the bed plate and actuated by a pin upon the disc (e)
working in a slot in the thread tightener, such slot being of a form to
tighten the under thread while the point of the curved needle (h) is
above the fabric, but the eye of the needle (h) not yet having reached
the fabric, the precise form of these thread tighteners must be governed
by the description of machine to which they are to be applied, but the
principle involved in their use is this, that the thread shall be pulled
off the reels, not at the highest elevation of the needle bar, as is usual
in ordinary sewing machines, but shall be drawn off and the stitch
drawn tight when the upper needle (b) and the lower needle (h) have
been inserted in the fabric and before the eyes have reached the fabric.
When the machine is required for lock stitch sewing the needle (b)
will be removed to the side (s), of the needle bar (a), the milled headed
screw (p) withdrawn, and the pivot (g) pressed up and fixed by the
screw (). The machine is capable of working both the button hole
stitch and the lock stitch at the same time.
In Figure 14, Sheet 2, (H) is the bed plate of the machine; (F, I,)
bearings screwed underneath; (K), a shaft having a bent or curve
at (L) with a screw to fasten the curved needle (h) in its position;
(M) is a pinion fixed upon the shaft (K), engaging with and receiving

page_text: motion from a semicircular rack (N) which oscillates upon pivots (0, 0,)
in suitable bearings attached to the plate (H), but omitted here for the
sake of clearness; (P) is a short angular piece of the lever (N), and it
is kept in contact with the mover cam of the machine, and receives its
motion therefrom; as the shaft revolves the shape of the cam and the
short lever (P) will cause the curved needle (h) to be elevated in the
same way as shewn in Figure 1; the return stroke may be provided
either by a strong spring pressing upon the lever (N), or a cam may be
In place of the curved
fixed upon the main shaft for that purpose.
needle (h) a straight needle may be used if preferred, in which case it
would travel in a line described by a portion of a polygon.
In Figure 9 the operation of the. needle (b) is, similar, to that in the
machine shewn at Figure 1, with the exception of the curved needle (h)
being at the present time through the material instead of by the side of it,
as it is in Figure 1, and upon the descent, of the needle (b) it will engage
in a loop of the silk held by the curved needle (h) and will hold it
over the edge of the material until the curved needle (h) has engaged
with the loop formed by the needle (b) through the slit of the button
hole under the fabric. This second under loop is. again held by the
curved needle (h).under the fabric. Each of these machines will work
embroidery with button hole stitch through the fabric with equal facility.
The parts which are new in the machine, illustrated in Figures 1 to 6
inclusive, and in Figure 8,are those lettered (b, c, d, e, f, g, h, i, m, u, q, r,)
and those numbered (5) and (6), and in Figures 9 and 10; or the Thomas'
machine, all the parts corresponding to those above named, and also
those from 1 to 4 inclusive; in Figures 11 to 14 inclusive, representing
the attachment of my improvements to a Wheeler and Wilson machine,
the parts which are new are those corresponding to similar parts in
Figures 1 to 5 inclusive, together with those lettered (J, K, L, M,
N, O, P).
I have thus endeavoured to define clearly the parts that are of
my Invention, but I intend not to confine myself to any particular
combination of such parts, as I may prefer to interchange them, or
some of them, or, as described, to employ certain equivalents for them.
Referring to Sheet 3, Figure 1 is a front elevation of a machine
having a curved needle and a curved shuttle working in unison with
each other so as to produce the ordinary lock stitch sewing; Figure 2 is
an end view of some parts of the same machine; Figure 3 is a detail of

page_text: the eccentric and connecting rod; Figure 4 is a front view of the shuttle
and its carrier, and Figure 5 a plan of the same.
(a), Figure 1, is the framing of the machine; (b), a needle arm
oscillating upon the centre (c), and having a short arm (d) connected
to the eccentric (e) by the connecting link (f), the eccentric (e)
being keyed upon the shaft (g); (h) is a shuttle driver having a short
arm (i), and rocking upon a centre (j), receiving its motion by means
of an eccentric and connecting link, as shewn in Figure 3, but set
at a different angle upon the shaft (g) to the eccentric (e), which
gives motion to the needle arm (b); (k) is a shuttle lying in a recess
in the shuttle carrier (h) and held in position by the plate (l) which
partially encircles the shuttle and so prevents its displacement wher
in position; (m) is a thread lifter actuated by the pin (n) upon the
needle arm (b) and working under a set spring (o) upon a fulcrum (p);
(g) is a serrated mover receiving an up-and-down motion from the
cam (r) upon the shaft (g); (s) is a hanging bar working upon a
fulcrum (t), and deriving an oscillating motion from the cam (u)
and transmitting such motion to the mover (g) by means of the
connecting link (v), w and (w') being springs attached to the levers (9)
and (s), and pressing upon the cams (r) and (u) for the purpose of
keeping such levers in continual contact; (x) is a slot in the lever (s),
in which works the pin (3) upon the connecting link (v) for the
purpose of altering the traverse of the serrated mover (g) at will; (2)
and (2) are rolling joints in the short arms of the rocking levers (b)
and (h) for the purpose of giving freedom to the traverse of the
eccentric (f). Motion is imparted to the machine by means of the
handle, when the needle will descend and pierce through the material,
and upon its partial return will form a loop of thread opposite the
point of the shuttle (k). By the position of the second eccentric upon
the shaft (g) the shuttle point will be brought forward and enter the
loop formed by the needle and pass through it, thereby interlocking
the two threads, sufficient space being left between the shuttle (k)
and its carrier (h) and (e) for the free passage of the loop formed by
the needle. When the shuttle has passed through the loop the pin (n)
will come in contact with the thread lifter (m) thereby elevating it so
as to draw the stitch tight. The construction of this machine is such
as to render it silent in its working, to facilitate which I sometimes
purpose using in place of the usual cog wheels employed for giving

page_text: motion to sewing machines wheels formed by making the periphery of
the larger wheel by stamping apertures in a band of metal and after-
wards turning up such band into a hoop so that the teeth of the smaller.
pinion may engage in such perforations.
Figure 6 is a front elevation, and Figure 7 an end elevation of my
improved tension appliance. The silk or thread spool is free to turn on
the tube (a), which works upon a pin (b) firmly screwed into the
casting (c); (d) is a bent lever oscillating upon the pin (b), and
attached to the tube (a) and also the friction pulley (d'), around which
the tension strap (e) is carried and tightened at will; (f) is a pin fixed
in the needle lever and vibrating, as shewn, from (f) to (f¹), as the.
needle lever of the machine works up and down; (g) is a flexible spring
bent and pressing upon the bent lever (d) when the pin (f) is at (f),
but liberated by the pin (f) when at its upward point of motion.
The action of the tension appliance will be as follows:-The silk or
thread passes from the reel to the hole (1), and under the spring (g) to
the hole (2). When the needle lever is travelling to its lower point (f¹)-
the silk or thread will be held tight under the spring (g), and as the
stitch is tightened the lever (d) will oscillate upon the pin (b), thereby
supplying the requisite length of silk or thread required to form the
stitch, and at the upward stroke of the lever the pin (f) will return the
lever (d) to its former position, the lever (d) being free to traverse
along the thread by reason of the liberation of the spring (g). It will
be obvious that the size of the spool or any irregularity in the winding
of the thread itself will not affect the correctness of the leverage of
this tension arrangement, the action of which will be unvarying and
regular.
Figure 8 is a side view, Figure 9 an end view, and Figure 10 is a plan
of the presser bar; Figures 11 and 12 being modifications of such
parts of a machine as are required to illustrate my improvements in a
machine for working herringbone or other similar stitching. (a),
Figure 8, is a tubular needle bar having two needles held in the lower
end by a holder and screws (b); (c) is a collar fixed upon the needle
bar (a), and having a groove around it, in which the forked. needle
lever (d) works to give the up-and-down stroke to the needle bar but
allowing the needle bar freedom to turn; (e) is a rack working in
suitable bearings, and giving a half turn to the needle bar by a suitable
cam on the main shaft and the pinion (f) upon the top of the framing

page_text: of the machine through which the needle bar (a) works, and having a
suitable feather working in a groove in the needle bar; (g, g¹) are two
shuttles placed with their open sides facing each other, and in such
a position that they will engage with the loops formed by the two
needles and deriving their motion from a carrier. (h) from the lever (i)
and a cam. upon the main shaft in the usual manner; (j) is a thread lifter
with two holes situate above the top of the needle tube and elevated by the
upward stroke of the needle bar, such thread lifter running vertically in
the two holes in the framing of the machine; (k) is a thread guide through
which the thread passes from the tensions (l); (m) is a cloth presser
shewn in plan, Figure 10, having two corresponding perforations for
the needles, such perforations being opened into each other by means of
a curved slot passing backwards from the needles, which slot will form
a tongue-like piece (n) for the thread of each stitch to be formed upon,
and as the forward motion of the work continues the stitches will slip
off the end of such tongue piece (n).
'
In threading up the machine to begin the operation of sewing the
thread is passed down the interior of the tubular needle bar (a) and
though the eyes from the inside to the outside of the needle. The
operation of this machine will be thus:-The needles after descending
through the fabric and the loop formed by them will become engaged
with the shuttle threads in the usual way, and returning will tighten the
stitch. When the needle bar is again about to descend a half revolution
is given to the needle bar (a) by the rack (e) and the pinion (f), which
will cause the needle (6%) to descend and be engaged with the shuttle (g),
thereby crossing the needle threads over the tongue piece (n) of the
presser foot.
At the next descent of the needle bar (a) it is returned
to its first position and thereby will again cross the stitch, the thread
of the needle (6') being engaged with the shuttle (g). If it be required
to give an ornamental effect to the stitching the half revolution of the
needle bar may by suitable gearing wheels be given alternately or,
say, once in every six or other suitable number of stitches, giving a
similar effect to that shewn in Figure 13, presenting an appearance of
two rows of stitching connected at intervals by a row of herringbone
stitching.
Figures 11 and 12 shew a modification for effecting the turning of
the tubular needle bar (a) without the rack-and-pinion arrangement,
as shewn in Figure 8. In this modification the two spools (a') of thread

page_text: are placed upon the bracket (a) and are carried upon the top of the
needle bar, and have nuts (o). for regulating the tension; the half
revolution of the needle bar (a) is obtained by two semicircular vertical
up towards
plates (p) and (p') partly encircling the bar (n) and held
it by the spring (g), the top of the plate (p) being so formed that upon
the descent of the needle bar (a) the pin (r) will come in contact with
the top of the plate (p) and will be carried round half a revolution by
means of the curved shape of the top of the plate (p), the pin (n) being
free to return to the highest position and pass the end (s) of the plate (p)
by causing it to oscillate on the centre (t). The plates (p) and (p') are
counterparts of each other..
Figure 14 comprises in an end view and plan my improved needle
and needle bar combined, and working in an eccentric guiding piece
inserted in the framing of the machine, and this is intended to be used.
in connection with my improved sewing and button hole machine, as
shewn in Sheet 2 or in other ordinary sewing machines. (a) is a long
shanked needle having a long eye (b) near the top end and a collar
and spring (c) for the purpose of taking up the slack thread; (d) is the
connecting link by which the needle receives its motion, being fixed
thereto by the collar (e). By using a needle so formed I obtain extreme
lightness in the moving parts; (f) is a bar with two circular pieces
at right angles to each end, which circular ends are fitted into the frame
of the machine and are free to turn therein, and are provided with
holes in which the needle travels eccentric to them; (g) is a lever by
which the bar (f) can be turned part of a revolution, and the bar (f)
will be held when placed in position by means of the spring (h) taking
into the notch or catch (i) c or (j), as the case may be. This part of my
Invention is intended also to be used in connection with my improved
machine, as shewn in Figure 1, Sheet 2, thereby dispensing with the
necessity of resetting the needle.
Figure 15 represents my improved tubular trimming guide. (a). is
a flat plate of metal turned up at the edges (b, b,) to suit the width of
material to be used as trimming and being bent up at the other end
at (c) until the points (d) and (d') overlap each other near to the point
of insertion of the needle; (e) is a portion of the bed plate of the machine
shewn in dotted lines, and having an aperture (f) connected with the
needle hole through which the tubular trimming may emerge as it is.
being sewn upon the fabric.

page_text: Figure 16 is a form of hook which I propose to use having the hooked
end (g) sufficiently small to work by the side of the needle within the
guide (d) and to take hold of the loop formed by the descent of the
needle through the fabric, and working upon a pin (h) inserted in
the slot (i) and screwed firmly into the bed plate (e); upon its under
surface the hook (g) will receive its motion by means of the lever (k)
in the usual manner as employed in chain stitch machines.
Figure 17 is an end elevation, and Fig. 18 a plan of such parts of an
ordinary sewing machine as will shew my improvements for the purpose
of sewing on beads. (a) is a needle carried on a suitable needle slide;
(b) is a cloth presser; (c) is the bed plate of the machine suitably cut
away at the back of the needle to allow of the passage of the beads as
they are sewn upon the fabric (d); (e) represents beads sewn on to
the fabric; (f) is a bead held upon the loop distended by the hook
looper (g); (h) are beads shewn in the hopper (h'), which is represented
detached and enlarged at Figure 19, the beads are under the vertical
line of the needle and ready to be taken hold of by the spring bead
feeder (i) carried on a slide (7); this slide oscillates upon a pin (K) in
the slot (2) and receives an up-and-down motion by means of the crank
pin (m) upon the shaft (n) travelling in the curved slot (o); (p) is a
connecting link actuated by the cam (q) on the shaft (n) and connected
to the lever (j) by means of the pin (r) thereby giving to the slide (j)
a to-and-fro motion; (s) is a small spring fixed to the hopper, which
spring will by the forward action of the lever (j) pass behind each bead
as it comes from the hopper and hold it in position to be taken hold
of by the spring feeder (i) ready for the descent of the needle.
The operation of a machine so constructed will be as follows:-As the
shaft (n) revolves the loop holder (g) will be carried to the right hand,
thus forming a loop under the point of the next perforation of the
needle, and as the forward action of the material takes place the needle
will descend first through the material, then through the bed plate of
the machine, and next through the loop held open by the looper (g).
During these movements of the needle the bead feeder (j) will have
been elevated, carrying witli it a bead between the springs (i) until
such bead shall have reached the position of the bead (f), the needle
will then pass through the bead and form a loop below it, to be taken
hold of by the looper (g) in the usual manner, the bead feeder (j) will
whilst the needle is in the bead and after the loop has been taken hold

page_text: of by the looper (g) be withdrawn to the left by means of the connecting
link (p) and the action of the cam (g); the needle upon being withdrawn
to its highest position will appear, as shewn in the Drawings, the beads
being attached in succession to the material by means of the double
thread of the chain stitch as represented.
The red lines in all the Drawings represent the silk and stitches
formed thereby.
The new parts in the machines illustrated on Sheet 3 are as
follows:-In Figures 1 to 5 inclusive the parts marked (d, e, f, h, i, j, l,
m, s, t, v, x, y, z, z¹). In Figures 6 and 7 those marked (d, f, g, 1, 2).
The combination shewn in Figures 8 and 9. In Figures 10, 11, 12, those
marked (a, p, p', m, n, q, s, t,). In Figure 14 (a, b, c, f). In
Figures 15 and 16 the parts (a, g). In Figures 17, 18, 19, those
marked (h', i, j, k, l, m, o, p, q, r, s).
Referring to Sheet 4, Figure 1 is a front elevation; Figure 2, a side
elevation; and Figure 3, a plan of my improvements in machines for
sewing carpets, thick substances, or sails. (a) is the cast-iron framing
of the machine; (b) a needle slide carrier having a bent arm (c) and
oscillating upon a pin (d) in the framing of the machine at (a¹); this
oscillating slide carrier receives its motion from the cam (c'); (d') is a
needle slide carrying an arm (d³) and a needle (d); the slide receives
its vertical motion from the cam (d*,) Figure 1, by means of the lever
(d), such lever oscillating upon centres (d) and carrying a pin and
roller (d) running in a-groove in the cam (d) and transmitting its
motion to the slide (d') by means of the connecting link (d³). These
parts are shewn detached at Figure 4. (e) is a shuttle deriving its motion
from the cam (d') by means of the bell-crank lever (e') working upon
fulcrums (e) and (e), having upon its short arm a pin and roller
working in a groove in the cam (d') and carrying upon its longer arm
a connecting link (*) and shuttle driver (e³); (f) and (f) are a pair
of toothed wheels, the wheel (f) being twice the size of (f') thereby.
travelling at half speed; (g, g,) are serrated movers working upon the
fulcrum (g',) and shewn by preference underneath the material and
actuated by the cam (g) by which the progressive motion of the
machine may be obtained; (93) are cloth pressers upon the upper side of
the material and held upon it with springs, as shewn, the cloth pressers
having handles (g) by which the pressure may be increased at will
for the purpose of matching the pattern of the carpet or other substance

page_text: to be sewn, the length of traverse of the serrated movers (g, g,) is con-
trolled by the screw (g) which carries the mover stop (96) working upon
the pivots (g), and having thumb pieces (98) by which the traverse of
either of the serrated movers may be increased at will independently
of the other; (h) is a slide working vertically in bearings in the
castings (a) and carrying the fulcrum (g'), the slide being elevated by
the cam (h) by means of the lever (h). This part is shewn detached
at Figure 5. (i) is the main shaft of the machine carrying the cam (d')
the cams (h', g,) and deriving its motion by means of the grooved
pulleys (j) and (¹) from the treadle (k); (l) are guide rails screwed to
the sides of the race or traverse. down which the machine is intended
to travel, and these should be laid to meet the requirements of the
longest length of carpet to be sewn; (m, m,) are V pulleys or runners
screwed firmly to the framing of the machine for the purpose of
travelling upon the rails and supporting the entire machine and the
operator during the step-by-step movement of the serrated movers (g, g,)
along the material; (n) is a seat for the operator whilst at work, and by
means of the treadle (k) he gives motion to the machine; (o) is the
form of guide for keeping the edges of the carpet or other material
sufficiently close to the needle, and is placed upon each side of the
machine, and is provided with set screws to enable it to be regulated
to any required width of material; is a hole through which passes
a thread or yarn of similar material and colour to the carpet or material
to be sewn and which thread will be sewn in with every stitch by the
oscillating operation of the needle, and may if so desired when sewing
tapestry carpets be formed into loops by two spring wires actuated by
the oscillation of the needle slide, and which may be alternately placed
and withdrawn stitch by stitch as the work progresses.
The operation of a machine so constructed will be thus:-The breadths
of carpet being matched and the ends of the seam firmly fixed at a
given point to keep the carpet tight with the two edges lying close
to the point (p) of the guides (o); and the machine having been threaded
up as denoted by the red lines, the needle will first have a slanting
motion to the right hand given to it by the cam (c') and the bent
arm (c), the action of the cam (d') actuating the lever (d) will cause
the needle to descend through the fabric and form a loop through which
the shuttle (e) will pass, carrying its thread with it; the needle (d³) is
now carried to its former position, and as it is again about to descend

page_text: the needle will have a corresponding slanting motion to the left hand,
thereby penetrating the fabric, forming the second breadth of the carpet,
and becoming engaged with the shuttle thread as before, the first stitch
The serrated
for uniting the two edges of the carpet will be complete.
movers will now grip the fabric and propel the machine and operator
the distance of one stitch, as regulated by the thumb screw (g), when
the operations of the needle will be repeated.
The machine as represented in the Drawing will make one forward
motion for every descent of the needle; but if necessary the moving
cam (g) and lifting cam (h) may be placed upon the shaft carrying the
cam (c), thereby propelling the carriage at every alternate stroke of the
needle. If it be requisite to form the worsted yarn passing through the
hole (p) into a loop under every stitch formed by the needle the wire
pins for that purpose must be attached to the needle slide and pass
To ensure accuracy in
under the yarn before the needle descends.
matching the pattern of a carpet or fabric it is necessary that one
breadth should be stretched at one point and the other breadth at
another part of the pattern, and to obtain this end the serrated
movers (g) are made separate, as also are the cloth pressers (g³). By
this arrangement the operator can at will increase the pressure upon
either of the breadthis as may be required, and also increase the traverse
I
of either of the serrated movers (g) by means of the stud pins (g³).
sometimes attach a break to the sides of the machine which by pressing
upon the guide rails will retard the traverse of the machine, and thereby
strain the carpet at will.
The action of the machine shewn on Sheet 4 is that of a backward
motion of the machine between the two edges of the breadths of carpet
to be sewn, which edges are brought together and sewn, the closed seam
thus following the line of traverse of the machine, and this is the
peculiar motion which I desire to secure in the combination of the
several parts of the machine, although I do not intend to limit myself
to the particular combination herein described and illustrated.
I have now described in detail the several improvements in sewing
machines and their appliances forming the subject of my Invention, and
I have endeavoured clearly to define the various new parts of suchi
machines at the close of the description of each separate Sheet of the
Drawings, and in conclusion would remark that the several new parts

page_text: being interchangeable in the various forms of machines shewn, I do
not confine myself to any particular combination of those parts.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Moore Clements, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of January,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy.
JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS. (L.S.)