AN IMPROVED FRILLED AND FLUTED FABRIC OR MATERIAL, AND IMPROVEMENTS IN FLUTING OR GOFFERING MACHINES
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Hesketh Hughes, of Homerton, in the County of
Middlesex, Engineer, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED FRILLED AND
FLUTED FABRIC OR MATERIAL, AND IMPROVEMENTS IN FLUTING OR GOFFERING
MACHINES."
Sealed the 3rd March 1863, and dated the 6th September 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Hesketh Hughes at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on tho
6th September 1862.
I, HESKETH HUGHES, of Homerton, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED FRILLED
AND FLUTED FABRIC OR MATERIAL, AND IMPROVEMENTS IN FLUTING OR GOFFERING
MACHINES," to be as follows:-
My improved frilling and goffered fabric is composed of a material, say,
ribbon; it may be all of one color, or of different colors, and may be made of
similar or dissimilar materials, that is to say, for example, the body may be
made of velvet and the edge or edges of silk, or the body of linen and the
edge or edges of cambric, or the whole may be made of paper. I form the
improved fabric by goffering the material which is to constitute the edgo or
edges of the fabric in a goffering machine with plaits or goffers; I next sew,
by preference in a sewing machine, the bottom edge of this goffered edging

page_text: on to one edge of the material which is to form the body, taking care that all
the plaits are secured thereto; or, instead of sewing, I secure the edging by
gum or cement. Both edges of the body may have similar goffered material
sewn to them on one edge only, while the other edge has a piece of plain
material sewn to it or not, as desired. I then take the body and the
goffered edge and pass the whole through a fluting or goffering machine
similar to that for which Letters Patent were granted to me, 29 May 1860,
No. 1327, but with the leaves or pattern formers so made as not to injuriously
affect the already goffered edging; the effect is to produce a fluting or
goffer across the wholo fabric, including the goffered edging; lastly, I run ono
or more rows of stitching through and along the fabric, in order to presero
the fluting.
Instead of the first-mentioned goffered edging being sewn to the edge or
edges of the body only, I in some cases apply it in one or more rows on the
body, and then I cut away parts of the leaves or pattern formers in the fluting
machine in order to prevent them acting on the goffered edges further than
causing them to follow the fluting iniparted to the fabric. In some cases I
take a strip of material, goffer it entirely across, and then flatten it except
at the edges. I secure the goffer in these edges by a gummed thread or by
stitching, apply a strip of fabric between the goffered edges, and then flute
the fabric in a fluting or goffering machine, as beforo described.
My improvements in fluting or goffering machines, in addition to adapting
the leaves or pattern formers to produce the improved fabric described,
consist in forming the links or loops of the endless chain in such machines
each of two separate plates of metal. Each plate is made at top in the form
of a hook with a rounded head, and at bottom with two apertures for attach-
ment to the machine; two such plates are brought together in opposito
directions, and the hooks being turned towards each other a space is left in
each link for the pattern former.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of September, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-sixth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Hesketh Hughes, Her special licence that I, the said Hesketh
Hughes, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Hesketh Hughes, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN
IMPROVED FRILLED AND FLUTED FABRIC OR MATERIAL, AND IMPROVEMENTS IN
FLUTING OR GOFFERING MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said Hesketh Hughes, my executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Hesketh Hughes, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
that is to say-
My improved frilled and goffered fabric is composed of a material, say,
ribbon; it may be all of one color, or of different colors, and may be made of
similar or dissimilar materials, that is to say, for example, the body may be made
of velvet and the edge or edges of silk, or the body of linen and the edge or
edges of cambric, or the whole may be made of paper. I form the improved
fabric by goffering the material which is to constitute the edge or edges of the
fabric in a goffering machine with plaits or goffers; I next sew, by prefor-
ence in a sewing machine, the bottom edge of this goffered edging on to one
edge of the material which is to form the body, taking care that all the plaits
are secured thereto; or, instead of sewing, I secure the edging by gum or
cement.
Figure 1 of the accompanying Drawings is a view of a piece of fabric made
in this manner in a finished state. a is the goffered edging, which is sewn or
secured to the body b. Both edges of the body may have similar goffered

page_text: material sewn to them, as shewn at Figure 2, where a, a, is the edging, and 6
the body; or one edge only may have the goffered material sewn to it, while
the other edge has a piece of plain material sewn to it or not, as desired. I
then take the body and the goffered edge and pass the whole through a fluting
or goffering machine similar to that for which Letters Patent were granted to
me, Twenty-ninth May, One thousand eight hundred and sixty, Number
1827, but with the leaves or pattern formers so made as not to injuriously
affect the already goffered edging; the effect is to produce a fluting or goffer
across the whole fabric, including the goffered edging.
The mode in which I make the leaves or pattern formers is shown at
Figure 3; parts a are cut away to receive the goffered edgings of the fabric
while being passed through the fluting or goffering machine; lastly, I run
one or more rows of stitching through and along the fabric, as shewn at
Figures 4 and 5, in order to preserve this fluting.
Instead of the first-mentioned goffered edging being sewn to the edge or
edges of the body only, I in some cases apply it in one or more rows on the
body, as illustrated in Figure 6, where a is the body, and b, c, d, are three
rows of goffered edging sewn thereto. I cut away parts of the leaves or
pattern formers in the fluting machine in order to prevent them acting on the
goffered edges further than causing them to follow the fluting imparted to
the fabric. In some cases I take a strip of material, goffer it entirely across,
and then flatten it except at the edges. I secure the goffer in these edges by
a gummed thread or by stitching, apply a strip of fabric. between the goffered
edges, as shewn at Figure 7, and I then flute the fabric in a fluting or
goffering machine, as before described.
My improvements in fluting or goffering machines, in addition to adapting
the leaves or pattern formers to produce the improved fabric described, consist
in forming the links or loops of the endless chain in such machines each of
two separate plates of metal, as shown at Figure 8. Each plate is made at
top in the form of a hook a with a rounded head, and at bottom with two
apertures b, c, for attachment to the machine; two such plates are brought
together in opposite directions, and rivetted to each other, the hooks being
turned towards each other. A spaco d is left in each link for the pattern
former. Figure 9 shews the links attached to a leaf or pattern former e.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim,―
First, the improved frilled and fluted fabric produced by machinery, and in
manner herein before described,

page_text: And, second, the improvements in fluting or goffering machines herein-
before described and represented in the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Hesketh Hughes, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Sixth day of March, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty-three.