Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 1st June, 1895
Complete Specification Left, 26th Feb., 1896-Accepted, 18th Apr., 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Figured Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR, of 11 Mosley Street, Manchester and Saville Mill,
Bolton, both in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturer, and WILLIAM O'HANLON,
of 27 Dale Street, Manchester aforesaid, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates particularly to that kind of cloth well known in the quilt
trade as Patent Satin Cloth, made in accordance with Patent No. 2196 of 1881 and
various modified makes of the same or similar classes of cloth and also to quilting
or toilet cloth used for quilts, table cloths, toilet covers, toilet mats and sets,
sideboard cloths &c. and the object of our invention is to obtain an open fret work,
open or lace, or hem stitch effect in the above classes of cloth either by weaving
alone or by weaving and hand work combined so as to obtain novel effects of
ornamentation, and in the case of quilts, means for ventilation.
The patent satin cloth and its modified makes is composed of two warps, the
back or coarse warp and the face or fine warp and also two wefts, fine and coarse,
and as the two warps and two wefts are interwoven uniformly throughout the
working of the warps is such that the face or fine warp is worked by healds only
and not by Jacquard machine and the back or coarse warp in addition to being
tied to a Jacquard machine to control the pattern with the coarse weft is drawn
into cumber boards or pressing healds in order to interweave uniformly all across
the cloth with the fine weft.
It is necessary for our invention that this uniformity in the weave of the cloth
shall be broken with the object of obtaining the open effect of fret work, lace or
hem stitch in any desired part of the cloth and to effect this we tie the face or fine
warp to a Jacquard machine and so control the working of this warp in a manner
which cannot be done when the warp is drawn into healds or cumber boards only.
We work this warp jointly by Jacquard machine and cumber boards, the jacquard
to control the open fret work lace or hem stitch and the boards to press the
remaining portion of the yarn as the healds do now.
We work the back or coarse warp by a jacquard in addition to the cumber
boards or pressing healds at the time when the fine picks are being woven in, as
well as when the coarse or figuring picks are being woven in, and when the jacquard
is raised in the usual manner for making the figure with the coarse weft we, in
addition, raise such portion of the back warp by the same lift or card, as is
necessary for the open work and thus prevent the portion of the back or coarse
warp from interweaving with the fine or coarse wefts, where the open work is to be
produced.
By these methods we are able to suspend the interweaving of either or both the
warps and wefts at any portion of the cloth and thus make floats of the warps and
wefts in such manner as to produce the open work, fret work, or lace effects, which
can be hem-stitched if desired and which serve both as an ornamentation and for
ventilation.
To obtain the same effect in the cloth known as quilting or toilet cloth in which
the face warp is drawn into healds and weaves uniformly as calico or plain cloth
across the loom and is stitched or bound down by the back warp which is worked
by a jacquard to create the figured design we work the back warp by the jacquard
so as to obtain floats of the warp and we also work the face warp by a jacquard and

page_text: cumber boards in place of healds only so as to obtain the plain weaving as usual
where desired and the floating yarn where required, in a similar manner described
in regard to the patent satin cloth.
This cloth can be woven with one or two wefts.
WOVEN figured Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR, of 11 Mosley Street, Manchester, and Saville Mill,
Bolton, both in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturer, and WILLIAM O'HANLON,
of 27 Dale Street, Manchester aforesaid, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates particularly to that kind of cloth now well known in the
quilt trade as Patent Satin Cloth, made in accordance with Patent No. 2196 of 1881
and described in the Specification thereto as "Improved Mitchelline" and various
modified makes of the same or similar classes of cloth and also to quilting or toilet
cloth used for quilts, table cloths, toilet covers, toilet mats and sets, sideboard
cloths &c., and the object of our invention is to obtain an open fret work, open or
lace, or hem stitch effect in the above classes of cloth by weaving and hand work
combined so as to obtain novel effects of ornamentation, and in the case of quilts,
means for ventilation.
The patent satin cloth and its modified makes is composed of two warps, the
back or coarse warp and the face or fine warp, and also two wefts, fine and coarse,.
and as the two warps and two wefts are interwoven uniformly throughout the
working of the warps is such that the face or fine warp is worked by healds only
and not by a Jacquard machine, and the back or coarse warp in addition to being
tied to a Jacquard machine to control the pattern with the coarse weft is drawn
into cumber boards or pressing healds in order to interweave uniformly all across
the cloth with the fine weft.
It is necessary for our invention that this uniformity in the weave of the cloth
shall be broken with the object of obtaining the open effect of fret work, lace or
.hem stitch in any desired part of the cloth, and to effect this we tie the face or fine
warp to a Jacquard machine and so control the working of this warp in a manner.
which cannot be done when the warp is drawn into healds or cumber boards only.
We work this warp by preference jointly by Jacquard machine and cumber
boards, or pressing healds, the jacquard to control the open fret work, lace or hem
stitch and the boards to press the remaining portion of the yarn as the healds do
now; but it would be possible to work the face or fine warp by the jacquard alone
without any cumber boards, or pressing heald's.
We work the back or coarse warp by a jacquard in addition to the cumber
boards or pressing healds or by a jacquard alone, at the time the fine picks weave
in as well as when the coarse picks weave in.
i
Whenever we desire to obtain the open work effect we cause the jacquards to raise
such additional portion of the warps which they control as is necessary for the open
work and so prevent that additional portion of warp from interweaving with either
the fine or coarse wefts.
By these methods we are able to suspend the interweaving of either or both the
warps and wefts at any portion of the cloth and thus make floats of the warps and
wefts some of which may be cut away if desired and the remainder hand tied ör
hem stitched in such manner as to produce the open work, fret work or lace effects.
f
i

page_text: and which open work serves both as an ornamentation and for ventilation. Or
instead of cutting part and tying part we may dispense with hand tying and create
the open work or fret work effect by simply cutting away part of the floating
yarns whether warps or wefts; or we may dispense with cutting and simply bunch
the floating yarns together in any suitable way and tie each bunch by hand with
separate threads.
To obtain the same effect in the cloth known as quilting or toilet cloth in which
the face warp is drawn into healds and weaves uniformly as calico or plain cloth
across the loom and is stitched or bound down by the back warp which is worked
by a jacquard to create the figured design we work the back warp by the jacquard'
so as to obtain floats of the warp and we also work the face warp by a jacquard
and cumber boards or jacquard alone in place of healds only so as to obtain the
plain weaving as usual where desired and the floating yarn where required in a
similar manner to that described in regard to the patent satin cloth.
This quilting or toilet cloth can be woven with one or two wefts.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
:-
1. In cloth of the classes of weave specified, suspending the interweaving of
either or both of the warps and wefts thus making floats at that portion of the
cloth where the desired open work, fret work, lace or like effect is to be produced
and finishing by both cutting out part of the floats and hand tying the remainder
or by either cutting or hand tying alone, substantially as herein described.
2. A cloth of the classes of weave specified having open work, fret work, lace or
like effects produced by suspending the interweaving of either or both of the warps
and wefts thus making floats and finishing by cutting out part of the floats and
hand tying the remainder or by either cutting or hand tying alone substantially as
herein described.
Dated this 25th day of February 1896.
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
17 St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for Applicants.