CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINE
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Charles François Derocquigny and Dominique
Gance, of No. 10, Rue de la Fidélité, Paris, in the Empire of France,
Mechanical Engineers, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINE"
Sealed the 21st March 1865, and dated the 24th January 1865.
tents, wit
1865, pursuant to the 9th Section of the Patent Law Amendment Act,
1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, ALFRed
CHARLES FRANÇOIS DEROCQUIGNY and DOMINIQUE GANCE, of No. 10), Rue de la
Fidélité, Paris, in the Empire of France, Mechanical Engineers, send
greeting.
WHEREAS we are in possession of an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," and have petitioned Her Majesty to grant
unto us, our executors, administrators, and assigns, Her Royal Letters
Patent for the same, and have made solemn Declaration that we are the
first and true Inventors thereof.
NOW KNOW YE, that the following Complete Specification under our
hands and seals fully describes and ascertains the nature of our said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, reference
Price 8d.]

page_text: being had to the Drawing hereto annexed and to the figures and letters
marked thereon, that is to say :-
Our Invention consists in certain improvements in sewing machines by
which we work button holes, and that kind of embroidery known as scallopping
and the loop tambour, zig-zag, whip, and any other kind of stitches.
To carry out our Invention we enclose the needle and some of the organs
causing it to work in a box, to which an alternate motion is given perpen-
dicularly to the usual movement of the needle. This alternate movement is
produced by a jointed right-angle lever set in motion by a cam placed on the
main shaft of the machine, and the side face of which pushes an indepen-
dent stud fixed on the extremity of the aforesaid lever. The independence
of the stud allows two different variations in the length of the side move-
ment of the needle; the first takes place by the hand by means of thumb-
screws, préventing partially and gradually, or even totally, the movement of
the lever, and thereby lessening or increasing at will the length of the lateral
movement which produces the length of the stitch. This said screw can also
stop that movement, and in that case, the needle instead of piercing two lines
only pierces one. The length of this movement performed by the needle can
vary mechanically by means of a dog placed on that part of the lever which
moves horizontally. This dog stops the lateral movement of the needle at
any point of the course by its striking against a cam turning before it. This
cam is set in motion by a mechanism similar to that causing the advance of
the carriage of the planing machine, and turns of a segment equal to each
stitch. It will be, therefore, easily understood that a suitable tracing in the
cam having been made, the length of the lateral movement of each stitch can
vary; that is to say, that the ordinary and regular course of the needle can
vary up to the utmost separation of two lines of holes corresponding to the
free march of the translation lever. The above arrangement will not be
sufficient to produce all kinds of stitches, and for that purpose we add to the
above system an elbowed hook, which at the moment the needle gets out
from the cloth, after having left a loop in the line forming the edge of a
button hole, or after its thread being tied by the shuttle thread, takes hold of
the thread, and brings it back to the stitch facing the last loop; during that
time the cloth performs a movement given to it by an organ herein-after
described. The hook keeps the same position during the alternate motion of
the needle, and when this last begins to descend after having performed the
lateral motion, and at the very moment it penetrates into the cloth, the
hook rises, leaving the thread around the needle, so that when this last
rises up, the loop formed by it remains within the segment determined by

page_text: the hook. This movement of the hook is obtained by fixing it to a rod to
which an alternate rectilinear movement is given by means of an elbowed
lever receiving its motion from a cam fixed on the main shaft of the
machine. The movement is communicated to the hook by separating in
two parts the rod, and uniting by a joint having a cramp carrying a
cam, which, meeting with a permanent stop, determines in raising the
inclination of the cramp, and therefore displaces in a horizontal way the
extremity of the hook, whilst when descending the meeting with the perma-
nent stop causes the cam to oscillate without changing the vertical direction
in the movement of the hook, as it may be very useful for several kinds
of stitches to pass a cord within the seam, such as the scallopping and the
button-hole stitch, we make use of an elbowed hook fixed to the frame, but
capable of being raised or lowered at will. For button holes the hook is
provided with an open boss through which the needle passes, serving as a
guide and center at the same time to form the eye, the cord being wound
upon a special bobbin is conducted and guided by the shoulder of the said
hook; a second shoulder receives the first hook, and prevents it to catch into
the cloth; a third hook set on a special support serves as a point to determine
a centre at any distance, in case the stitch is to be made according to a
required circumference or part of it.
The above-described support serves also to support several guides having
different forms and dimensions according to the work required. When a
whip stitch is to be made the hook is taken off, and a flat guide is screwed on
a suitable place on the table. The cloth is placed against the edge of this
guide, a cord can also be employed for this kind of stitching. We im-
prove the take-up thread employed in ordinary sewing machines by the
application of a spring, so that in case of a stoppage when the thread is kept
back by its oscillating movement which it receives, causes the breaking of the
thread. The spring forces the take-up thread to be lowered in order to yield
to its tension. We obtain the removal of the cloth at any required distance
and direction, so as to be able to produce more or less pressed scallopping and
other stitches either in a rectilinear or curvilinear direction, and also straight
or slanting or back stitches by means of a feeder. It is composed of a disc
set on a jointed rod with a spring having a tendency to descend under its
action, and capable of turning round a center by leading on the circumference
of a groove on which the said rod can be carried to any part by means of a
sliding knob set in motion by the hand without the jointed rod ceasing to be.
in radial position with the groove. The movement received by the rod is
given by the groove according to the radius of the rod. For that purpose the

page_text: groove is linked on a lever provided with two arms having at each of their
extremities two studs independent one from the other; one of those studs can
be pushed twice and the other only once, by means of two cams with which
the shaft is provided. By such contrivance the removal of the cloth takes
place always according to the true radius of the groove once or twice by turns
when either of the studs is lowered. The above removal movement of the
disc will not be sufficient if this feeding disc did not at the same time receive
an alternate vertical movement, which it receives from an elbowed lever setin
motion by a cam fixed on the main shaft. Thus the cloth is pushed in any
perpendicular or longitudinal direction to that of the lateral movement of
the needle so as to produce the scallopping stitch for the eyes, the button
holes, &c., &c.
In order to have our Invention better understood, and its working clearly
shown, we refer to the annexed Drawings, in which the same letters and
numbers of reference indicate in all the Figures parts seen on different aspects,
but which are similar.
Figure 1 is a front view of a sewing machine provided with our improve-.
ments, partly in section; Figure 2 is a back view of Figure 1; Figure 3 is
a vertical section drawn at right angles on Figures 1 and 2 ; Figure 4 is a
horizontal section according to X, X, of Figure 1; Figure 5 is a plan of the
organs working underneath the table; Figure 6 is a vertical section of the
back, drawn at right angles on Figures 1 and 2.
Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, and
11, are several details of the machine herein-after described.
The Invention, as before stated, consists in an improved mode of obtaining
and varying a certain lateral movement of the needle of a sewing machine
for producing button holes and scallopping, zig-zag, whip, and other stitches
for which such lateral movement is required. It consists also in the peculiar
application of a hook and mode of working the same in combination with the
lateral moving of a needle, and a shuttle for causing especially the needle
thread to take a turn round the said needle on the surface or on the edge of
the stuff in working embroideries or in making button holes.
Our Invention consists also in an improved feeding motion of the cloth in
various directions for the purpose of producing several scallopping designs,
zig-zag, embroideries, and back stitches, for which such motion is required. In
the Figures, A is the bed plate of the machine set on a suitable frame B, at
the extremity of which is suspended a box D on two fixed guides a, a. To
the two ends of the box D are two pieces with bearings b, b, for the needle
bar C. In the box and on its pillar is strongly secured a bar or guide E,
Figures 2 and 4, serving to guide in a horizontal direction the swinging

page_text: movements which are given to the aforesaid box D for the purpose of
giving a lateral movement to the needle e between two succeeding move-
ments capable of producing the alternate removal of the cloth within two
parallel lines, or in the case of working button holes, scallopping, zig-zag, or
back stitches, the alternate perforations of the cloth at certain distances from
or near the edge, or even over the edge itself, of the said cloth. Figure 1
shews the mechanism contained in the box D for the take-up thread. The
needle holder C is centrally connected by a stud egressing at right angles
from the centre of a cylindrical groove E¹, working on a stationary vertical
guide c. On the groove E¹ in the centre face and rear of each side of the
stud d, the groove is crossed by a stud p, serving to connect the extremity of
a lever Fat the place where it forms a fork. The lever F works on a
pivot f, which is fixed on the frame B; the opposite extremity of the
said lever carries a stud g, on which is set a small roller, working in the
groove of a cam G set on the main shaft I. The shaft I is supported
in suitable bearings m, m, placed underneath the table, and can be driven
by a treadle or any other means. The stud g at the lower end of lever
F being set in motion by cam G, which by the stud p, slide E', and
stud d, and bar C, communicates to the needle c the required movement to
penetrate into the cloth and to withdraw it. The working of the needle bar
and of the needle is in every respect similar to the movement of most of the
other sewing machines. The lateral movement of the needle bar C is pro-
duced by the following means:-Into the interior of box D the guide E is
secured on one of its lateral standards, Figures 1, 2, and 4. This guide slides
on a stud n projecting from the frame B and connected to the extremity of
the lever H, working on pivot f, and the other extremity of which forms a
fork, carrying at its end the small roller 2 working on the front of cam G.
This cam is cut so as to bear on the lever H and thereby to cause the upper
end of the lever to be overturned to the opposite direction of its lower end.
The spring J pressing continually upon the upper part of lever H forces its
opposite end to press against the face of cam G, Figure 2, and which face
having halfa circumference in projection, whilst the other half circumference
is suitably sunk in for the purpose of obtaining a course equal to the width of
a notch r, which serves as the bed of needle e; this notch is cut in the plate
of the table A. The lateral motion takes place each time the needle is with-
drawn from the cloth, and it will be understood how that movement causes
the needle to penetrate alternately in one or the other end of notch 7. The
lever H being set in motion by the projections of cam G, and the spring
J being thus in communication by the guide E with the box D, causes the

page_text: lateral motion of the needle holder C, which movement is varied and deter-
mined by the screw t screwing on the standard of frame B. Each time the
cam G presses the upper extremity of the lever H backward and against the
spring J the screw t receives at its extremity the shock of the said lever, and
by stopping it varies and controls the lateral movement, so as to determine
the uniform distance which is to exist between the two lines of stitches, so
very desirable for button hole or whip stitch. When the screw t is fully in
it forms the lower part of lever H to be separated from the cam G and
prevents the contact of the cam with the lever; by such means the lateral
movement is suppressed, and the refore the bar C is prevented from moving in
any other direction than thevertical, which movement is required for ordinary
stitching. In some kinds of embroidery and scallopping stitches where the
work does not require the same regularity as it does in working for whip
stitching and for button holes, the herein-before described lateral movement
can be varied by using mechanical means for regulating and controlling the
lateral movement of two uniform excentrics a¹, a¹, set on an horizontal arbor
61. This arbor is supported in two suitable standards c¹, c¹, on the front and
each side of the frame B, Figures 2 and 4. This arbor carries a small
ratchet wheel d¹, having twenty-four cogs and a lever f¹ of a suitable form,
in communication with lever K by means of the stud g₁, forming part of the
piece h¹. This latter is so constructed that it can surround and slide on the
lever K and be fixed at the desired point by the thumbscrew m¹. On
the lever is set the cock n¹, on the back of which bears the spring p¹,
causing the aforesaid cock to cog with each of the teeth of wheel D¹. The
stud g¹ being thus put in motion by lever K, gives at the lower part
of lever f¹, and at the place where a notch is prepared, an up-and-
down movement, which causes the cock n¹ to slide over one or more
cogs of the ratchet wheel d¹. When the lever fi is descending it raises
one or more cogs of the wheel d¹, according to the distance occupied by
the stud g¹, from the horizontal arbor b¹ when lever fi is ascending. Such
movement takes place for every two stitches made by the needle intothe cloth.
A stop 8 is attached on the guide or bar E, its extremity ends as the point
which can be turned towards one of the other excentrics a¹³, a¹,
and kept in its place by the adjusting screw t', the horizontal arbor 6' being
thus moved by the working of the lever f¹ of the cock n' and of wheel d', gives
a rotative movement to the excentrics c', a', which after each pressure of the
cock n' presents a front more or less apart from the centre of arbor a¹ against
which strikes the stop s'. Therefore one of the excentrics is constructed so as
to obtain trom the needle a lateral course equal to the width of the notch,

page_text: whilst the other excentric is constructed so as to obtain half of the same
course. The stopper s¹ can be fixed towards the front of one or of the other
excentric, according to the design to be produced, when scalloping or
embroidery stitches are to be worked. The ratchet wheel having forty-eight
cogs, it is necessary that the lever fi, provided with the dog should catch
forty-eight times with the cogs of the ratchet wheel to obtain a turn of the
arbor, and the excentrics being divided in twenty-four parts from the
diametrical line by which they are divided in two, it follows that one of the
excentrics presenting the front of periphery towards the part of the stop at
the place of the periphery, leaves very little course for the bar E of the box,
and by their rotative motion the excentrics present a different front to the
point of the stop. From zero, which is the nearest point towards the stop
and the remotest from the centre of the arbor, up to the twenty-fourth division,
which is the remotest point of the stop and the nearest to the centre, allowing
the bar E a gradual course. It follows that twenty-four strikes of the dog
with the ratchet wheel are necessary to bring the front of the stop from the
point of the excentric the remotest of the centre, which is zero, to the
division 24, which is the nearest point of this centre, at which moment the
arbor has only performed half of its revolution. It follows also that twenty-
four other strikes of the dog on the ratchet wheel are necessary to bring back
the excentrics facing the stop from the nearest point of the centre to the
remotest point, that is to say, from the twenty-fourth division, which was
facing the stop, and zero, which was the starting point. It is then that
the arbor and the excentrics have performed a complete revolution. Such
mode of varying and controlling the lateral movement of the needle holder
in sewing machines is especially required when a series of stitches
progressively larger are to be worked, as shewn in red ink, Figure 7, for
a scallopping stitch. The stud &, represented in Figures 3 and 4, raises
the dog when a series of some equal stitches are required for the working
of a design for scallopping or embroidery. This stud & can easily be
turned, and the rotation of the ratchet wheel be stopped without stopping
the machine. el is a disc, on which are marked the divisions corresponding
to those of the ratchet whéel, and the small pointer c2, which is a part of
the extremity of the arbor b¹, shows the progression and place which the
excentric has made for the needle to perform. The stud d² serves to
turn the arbor by the hand, according to the direction of the arrow c²,
for the purpose of beginning the work according to the required division,
and according to the kind of work to be executed. P represents the
hook causing the thread. of the needle to perform a turn round the

page_text: needle for the formation of each stitch, therefore the portion of the thread
of the needle forming part of a stitch must pass round the portion of
the same thread forming part of the following stitch, as in Figure 10, repre-
senting a front view of a button hole, and where the stitch is represented in
red ink; the same Figure represents the visible thread (in red ink) of the
needle passing alternately in the cloth on the line 15 and through the edge 16,
and is tied by the shuttle thread. Two up-and-down movements of the
needle and two knots are required to complete the stitch; the blue line in
that Figure represents a cord fed by bobbin S, and brought under the point
of the needle by guides having different forms and dimensions. This cord on
which the stitch is to be formed serves to strengthen the embroidery scal-
loping or button hole stitch; it serves, besides, to support the proper shape
of the button hole. The two ends of the cord being strongly secured at the
extremity of the button hole by means of a small bar formed by several
scallopping stitches is similar to that of most of the button holes worked by
hand; to be more easily understood, the stitches are represented more
separated between them than they are usually.
Figure 7 represents the same stitch entirely worked into the cloth, the
needle passing through it for each down movement, instead of passing once
in the cloth and once over the edge. This Figure represents the working of
the hook which has been herein-before shewn at the moment it lias taken up
the thread between the stitches of the lines 16 and 15, where the two last
perforations have been performed, and as it has just formed a kind of segment
with the thread it holds in such position that the needle at its next down
movement in the line 16 is able to pass through it, and be in part surrounded
by the said arc thus formed, and which, when the needle ascends, will be able
to surround the neck of the loop left in the stuff by the needle. The hook P,
which forms part of the extremity of the small elbowed lever M represented
in Figures 1, 2, 3, 7, and 9, is firmly secured at its elbowed part to the
bar N1, Figures 1, 2, and 7; this bar N¹ is set at its elbowed part and at the
place where it is provided with a nearly round surface on a pivot 18 ofanother
nearly straight bar N, Figures 1,2,and 3, and carries a springq¹ holding a small
cam o pressed against a stop q2. The cam o is placed on a pivot 19 set on the
extremity of the bar N', Figures 2 and 3. The spring allows the hook to
yield when it passes over according to the direction of arrow 17, Figures 1
and 2, at the same time that the upper extremity of the bar N¹ pressing
against the lower end of bar N by means of the spring g', which prevents it
to yield when it passes in the opposite direction. The upward movement of
bar N shows that the small cam o is compelled to be in contact with a stud v

page_text: J
firmly secured to the frame B, Figure 3; this stud, by striking or sliding on
the projecting front of cam o, forces it back against spring q' which recedes
on that pressure, and while the upper part of the bar N' carrying the cam o
performs such movement, the opposite extremity of the bar N¹ carrying the
elbowed lever M of hook P is reversed in an opposite direction, the pivot 18
allowing it to do so. Such mechanical means permit the hook P, when
performing its upward movement, to avoid the contact of the needle, and.
to be separated from the loop when it passes over the needle in the direc
tion of arrow 17. During the downward movement of bar N, the pivot 19
allows the cam o to turn on itself, when its point meets with the stud v
and spring q' by its bearing on the rear part of the cam causes this latter
to bring again its projecting point to the stud when ready to ascend for
performing a second operation. Thus the cam o turning on pivot 19 during
the down movement of bar N, causes the hook P to pass obliquely underneath
the needle point. The bar N is suspended to one of the ends of lever K,
which pivot on the fulcrum fixed on the rear side of frame B, in which it is
strongly secured by screws, and from which the extremities project on each
side and at right angles, as shewn in Figure 6. The said pivot f serves as a
support to the lever F of needle bar C to the lever producing the lateral
movement H and to the lever of the hook bar K, the end of which forms a
stud or roller s¹, working in groove t¹ prepared round the cam G, so as to
produce the up-and-down movement of lever K. The lever F, which works
the needle,receives two complete up-and-down movements, and consequently
strikes twice the needle for each of the revolutions of the main shaft I; but
the lever K receives only one up-and-down-movement for each of the revo-
lutions of the said main shaft. The bar N does not perform a vertical, but an
up-and-down slanting movement. It moves backward from needle bar C
when the latter goes down, and advances when the said bar goes up. The
movement of the bar N is therefore obliquely directed by means of a horizontal.
point V fixed on the thickness of the edge of frame B, and enters into an
oblique mortice W cut in bar N. Figure 2 represents a view of that bar,
such as it appears when it is examined from the rear of the machine. The
movement of the bar N and N', which carries the hook P, is so arranged
relatively to the movementof the needle andof the feeding apparatus that when
the needle rises from the cloth, after leaping a loop within the line 16, which
forms the edge of the button hole, if a button hole is worked, or if the needle
rises after the thread has been tied by the shuttle, when the work relates to
embroidery, the hook passes,and obliquely descends by crossing the course of
the needle underneath its point, and takes the throad between the eyeand the

page_text: cloth, and the extremity of the said hook is firmly brought back on the cloth
to a place facing which the needle has left the last loop. During such
interval the feeding movement has taken place between the needle which is
leaving the cloth and the book which has just been separated from it. Figures
7 and 9 represent that period of the working of the needle, by completing its
upward movement the needle moves sideways towards line 15, and in Figure
7 is represented in that line ready to penetrate in the cloth. The hook
remains in the same position, keeping the needle thread and causing it to
form a kind of are over the cloth during the needle is performing its down
movement in the cloth.and its upward movement, leaving a loop of its thread
tied to that of the shuttle on the line 15, until the said needle had gone down
after its having performed a lateral movement by perforating the cloth, or
by passing over its edge on the line 16, and at the point of the needle
penetrates into the stuff in that line and closes the point of the hook P,
Figure 7; this latter rises, leaving the thread round the needle; when the
needle rises again the fresh loop of the thread remains in the curve previously
formed by the hook P, and preserves this curve, forming a stitch having the
form shewn by the Numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4, Figures 7 and 10.. When the hook
goes down it is not for striking the needle, and when it goes up it draws back
to avoid being in contact with it. To work the side movement of the needle
as herein above described, the opening or notch r giving passage to the needle
must be elongated. At the extremity of that opening being the nearest from
the vertical bar or standard Q, a very short standard is secured within the said
openings, it forms a part of a small groove in a vertical line to allow the
passage of the needle when it descends into the stud, which for button holes
serves to keep separated the sides of the slit; the said stud serves as a pivot
round which turns the stuff, when the circular extremity of a buttom hole or
eyes are worked, Figure 9. On the rear part of this pivot the shoulder 20
serves, when button holes are made, as a support for the stitch of the hook P,
after this last has taken hold and made an arc of the thread as herein-before
described. This shoulder is necessary, as it prevents the hook to enter and to
be hooked in the button hole. There is a second shoulder 21 at the place
opposite that on which bears the hook and serves to conduct and guide the
cord 22, shewn with blue ink in Figures 1, 2, and 9. This cord is fed from
the bobbin S, and is brought along the edges of the slit, and the stitches are
therefore worked over it. The stud w² and the shoulders 20 and 21 form part
of a guide 24 secured to an arm Q¹, which can be fitted longitudinally in the
straight arm Q, set on two openings prepared on the edges 23 of the frame B;
y represents a point or stud fitted as the above described stud w². This stud,

page_text: Figure 7, presses on the cloth, and forms a centre round which the cloth can
move under the feeding motion when the work is to make circles or segments
of circles. The longitudinal fitting of arm Q allows the stud y to approach
to or to recede from the needle and to vary the length of radii of the circles on
which the work is done. A spring y¹ is set on the straight arm Q, it serves
to lower the stud when the scallopping or embroidery stitches are made. When
button holes are to be made this study is taken off, being replaced by the guido
24, and the stud 25, which is screwed on the end of bar Q, serving to regulate
the elevation of the stud or center w³, according to the thickness of the cloth,
and the spring y maintains the said stud in the notch for the passage of the
needle. But a lever Q is applied conjointly with the aforesaid arm, and is in
connection with the stud 25bis in such a manner that it is in a position to
raise and maintain the arm Q, and hold the stud out of contact with the notchr
and stuff when a button hole is finished and it is necessary to begin another,
or when scallopping stitches are made on a straight line, thestud y is also out
of contact with the stuff, and the lever Q2 serves also to maintain the bar Q;
in all cases, when the use of the said studs is not required, the said arm Q¹
carries a bar R, which can be longitudinally fitted, and is capable of con-
taining a variety of guides, having several forms and dimensions, and serving
to conduct a cord coming from a bobbin S to the work. This cord on
which the stitch is to be formed serves to strengthen the button hole or
the embroidery stitches. To work a whip stitch we do not make use of
the hook P, which can easily be taken off by unscrewing the adjusting
screw 26, fitting at the end of bar N1, Figures 1 and 2. The needle C by
its vertical alternate movement conjointly with the lateral movement, after
having been down through the cloth or leather to be whipped, and at the
distance of the edge according to the regulation of screw t, goes up, leaving
a loop which the shuttle has closed; at this moment when the needle is to go
down the lateral movement allows its point e to pass over the edge of the stuff,
leaving a locp, and thus descends before the face of the edge of the cloth to
form a second stitch which the shuttle thread has tied. Thus two up-and-
down movements of the needle are necessary to work a whip stitch. Figure 8
represents the organs required to form such a whip stitch. In that Figure
the needle e is ready to descend over the edge of a piece of stuff when it is
obliquely examined. The visible thread in red 29 is the thread of the needle,
and the thread in black of the shuttle, which is made to cross the thread of
the needle in the middle of the thickness of the stuff edge and also over a cord
27 furnished by the bobbin S, and brought to the point of action through a
hole 30 forming part in guide 32, which guide can be adjusted on the table A

page_text: so as to guide in a straight line either the article to be sewn or the cord. The
adjusting screw 31 serves to maintain the guide in its place when it is in its
required position. The zig-zag stitch is worked by the saine herein-before
described means. It suffices to take off the guide 32 and screw 31, which are
nolonger required for that stitch. Trepresents the feeder with all its gearing
shewn in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 5, it forms part of the extremity of an arın T¹,
provided with the slide 35, jointed by a pivot 33 to the extremity of the said
arm T', to facilitate its fitting and movement on an horizontal bar U¹ having
a semicircular form in its longitudinal section. That bar U'is provided with
a notch of a similar shape 34, and forms part of it in the middle. In the
centre of the curve of the bar U₁ another transversal and straight bar U,
forming part of the said curve, is firmly secured to a vertical slide U2 prepared
so as to go up and down within two permanent vertical guides 34bia, 34 bis, set
underneath the table A, and preventing, therefore, the bars U¹ and U to
move but in a vertical direction. The horizontal and semicircular bar U¹ is
opened by a notch in its center to permit the arm T¹ and slide 25 to move on
it from one end to the other. This arm is the radius of the semicircle which
the bar U¹ describes. The feeder T carries on its lower surface a groove, in
which is fitted a conical point 36, which forms a part of the lever O¹ moving
on pivot A', firmly secured on the front of the pedestal B', set underneath the
table A. The opposite extremity of pivot A¹ carries the small cylinder 37;
moving into the groove of cam C2, fixed on the main shaft I. The point 36
supports the feeder, holds it during its work, and performs an up-and-down
movement within a space of time calculated relatively to the longitudinal
movement of the feeder 'T, and which movement takes place twice for every
turn of the shaft I by means of cam C2, by oscillating the conical extremity
36 of lever O¹ working on pivot A¹. The longitudinal bar U¹ and the ver-
tical slide U2 are connected by the rod V₁ to the fork lever V, moving on
two supports 38, 38, forming part of the pedestal m of the shaft I; and at
the extremity of the pedestal 39, firmly secured on the front of the pedestal
B¹ underneath the table A, a point 40 of the fork lever V forms part of
a vertical screw or stud 41 which is moving on the front rim of a cam 14,
wedged on the main shaft I. The other point 42 carries a vertical screw
stud 43 working on the surface of the rim of cam 45, wedged on shaft I
on the opposite side of the cam 44. However these points of the forks are
placed with their screw studs in such a manner that only one at the same
time is in a position to work on its own cam. These studs are, never-
theless, rendered moveable in their respective points, so as to permit to any
of them to be put in contact with its own cam. The motion of the cams and

page_text: pressure of spring V2 set on one of the guides 34b, produce the oscillating
movement of lever V on its pivot, and causes the alternate and reciprocal
movement of the slide U2 and bars U and U. These two bars, by commu-
nicating a vertical movement to the fixed extremity of the arm T¹ at the same
time that the feeder T is held by the point 36, causes the said feeder to
perform a horizontal forward or backward movement or nearly so on the said
point 36. This, in its turn, on account of the oscillation of the lever O' on
the pivot A' by means of the cam c², causes the feeder to perform a downward
movement when it has performed its backward movement, and an upward
one when the forward movement is ended. These movements serve to feed
the stuff, but they can be varied according to the quantity of the required
feeding by turning or screwing one of the vertical studs which are parts of
the pointed extremities 40 and 42. This stud pressing more or less on its
cam produces thereby a variable feeding. When the lever X is working the
arm T moves along the bar U₁, to which it is always radial, which causes
the direction of the arm T to be altered. As the feeding movement is always
parallel to the length of the said arm and radial to the bar U, the direction
of the feeder is also altered. It will be seen that a smaller or larger variation
in the direction of the feeder is proportionally produced according to the
smaller or larger portion of a circle formed by the bar U. The cam 45
is prepared so as to work on its own point 42 for the purpose of producing
only one feeding movement after each second and complete movements of
the shuttle and needle. This movement is specially prepared for the
scallopping stitch, but it can be employed for some other work. The cam 44
is prepared so as to perform on its own point 40 a feeding movement after
each complete movement of the needle and shuttle. This movement can be
employed for plain sewing, and for many other kinds of embroideries.
Y represents a stuff presser, having a spring 46 and a raising lever Y',
which is moved by the hand as well as the stuff pressers employed in ordinary
sewing machines. 49 is the bobbin feeding the needle with thread; it is placed
on the frame B close the bobbin S; 47 is a pulley, with a groove cut in the
shape of a V, and round which passes the needle thread; this pulley being set
onthe axis 48,provided with a spring 50,and byscrewing the stud 51placedat
the end of axis 48, the said stud 51 causes a pressure, which varies at will,
to obtain and control the required tension of the needle iliread; 52 is another
small pulley, having also around it a groove serving to carry and direct the
cord coming froin bobbin S; 53 is a guide, having an eye facing and near the
upper part of the box D, the thread passes through this guide before getting to
the take up, which consists of a short arm 63 having an eye at its extremity,

page_text: and connected by a small pivot 55 to another arm 54 provided with a spring
bearing on the extremity opposite to the eye of the arm 63, and causes the
latter to rise after it has been forced to yield to the tension of the needle
thread; when the hook P takes hold of a loop underneath the point of the
said needle. This apparatus is attached to a small horizontal arbor 56 rotating
in a bearing facing the box D. To this arbor 56 and inside the box is attached
a connecting rod 62 provided with a mortice into which slides the stud 57, at
the lower end of sector 58 oscillating on a permanent pivot 58 fixed on the
top of plate 59 inside the box D. The sector has a mortice 60 which receives
a stud 61 set on the needle bar. The movement of the stud 61 with theneedle
produces the swinging of the sector, which by means of connecting rod 62 and
stud 57 communicates the required movement to the take up thread as it
causes it to go up with the needle, though more rapidly for the purpose of
taking up the thread in its face. To render more regular the operation of the
taking up, the arm 63 of the arbor 56 has been made moveable. 64 represents
the shuttle with its two pointed ends to enable it to pass through a loop left by
the needle thread, whatever is the direction it is moving. This shuttle is partly
of a cylindrical format its centre, but flattened and open at one of its extremities;
the mechanism by which the shuttle performs its movements is more distinctly
shewn in Figures 2 and 3. B' is a framing of a convenient shape, of which the
pedestals m and 39, the race way of the shuttle 65, and the notch r for the
passage of the needle, formapart. This framing supporting the several organs
working underneath the table A is strongly fixed to it by the screws 66; z is
the shuttleholder, forming part of straight bar 67, oscillating on a permanent
pivot 68 fixed at the lower part of the framing B. The small roller 69 fixed
on the bar 67 not far from the fulcrum 68 works in a groove 71 which is a
part of the cam 70 placed on main shaft. The cam 70 is prepared so as to
cause the shuttle holder z to give to the shuttle a longitudinal sliding move-
mentwhen theneedle isworking an in-and-out movement intothestuff; at that
moment the shuttle remains stationary, but performs after a second sliding
movement in an opposite direction to thefirstduring the following movement
of giving and returning of theneedle. The small roller 69 beingput inmotion
by the cam 70 causes an oscillating movement to the bar 67, which commu-
nicates by the shuttle holderz the required movement to cause the shuttle to
pass and repass through the loop formed bytheneedle; 72 is a small projection
forming part of the framing B'for the purpose of supporting the shuttle in its
race on a circumference having for centre the pivot 68. The spring 73 main-
tains the flat front of the shuttle against the race way 65, preventing thereby
any deviation in the longitudinal race of the shuttle. The machine shewn in

page_text: the Drawing can perform all kinds of sewing, and to work them it suffices to
crew the regulating screwt and to cause it to press on the lever H to avoid
the contact of the latter with the cam G, by which means the lateral movement
of the needle is suppressed.
Having now described the nature of our Invention and the manner in which
the same is to be carried into effect, we wish it to be understood that we do
not confine ourselves to the precise details of construction or of combination
of the several mechanical parts or appliances or their equivalents, provided the
principle of our Invention be preserved; but what we claim is,--
Firstly, the combination of the oscillating box D or its equivalent, with the
permanent guides a, a, the oscillating guide E, the screw t, the spring J, the
front s of cam G, the ratchet wheel d', the eccentrics a¹, a', the dog n¹, and
the lever fl, as herein-before described, reference being had to the Drawing.
Secondly, the combination of a needle having a lateral movement, and of
a shuttle with a hook P, to operate as herein-before described, reference being
had to the Drawing.
Thirdly, the mechanical arrangements of the feeder before described,
reference being had to the Drawing.
Fourthly, the mechanical arrangements of the take-up thread, as herein-
before described, reference being had to the Drawing.
In witness whereof, we, the said Alfred Charles François Derocquigny
and Dominique Gance, have hereunto set our hands and seals, the
Sixteenth day of January, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
H. GILBEE,
10, Rue de la Fidélité,
Paris.
16th January 1865.
A. C. F. DEROCQUIGNY. (L.S.)
DQUE GANCE.
(L.S.)