Improvements in or App Central Lists or Selvages.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 13th May, 1887.
Specification Accepted, 14th June, 1887.
Improvements in or App
Central Lists or Selvages.
We LOUIS FRANÇOIS GAILLARD and AUGUSTE REMY both of Reims (Marne) in
the Republic of France do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement:-
This invention has for its object the production in woven fabrics of central lists or
selvages which cannot be ripped or unravelled and the cutting or dividing when
requisite, of such selvages as fast as the weaving proceeds.
For this purpose we mount the loom with a special and peculiar harness mechanism
for forming the central list or selvage and imparting a double turn or twist of warp
threads of the said lists or selvages over each other, at the same time enabling the
same to be interlocked and secured by each shoot of the weft, the longitudinal division
or separation of the central list being effected as fast as the weaving proceeds by a
peculiar Temple-cutter attached to the breast beam of the loom.
Our peculiar harness mechanism may be applied to all existing looms and enables
several pieces to be woven at the same time in the same loom whereby after separation
two or more distinct pieces are obtained having at their two edges lists or selvages
which cannot be unravelled. The employment of two or more of the said harness
mechanisms in the same loom admits of the production with less labour and in a
shorter time of a great variety of fabrics. The application of the said harness
mechanism will tend to restrict the number of small looms in use replacing the same
by looms of greater width thereby diminishing the cost of installation and maintenance.
Various apparatus have been suggested and employed for producing central selvages
but hitherto these have not been practically successful owing to the uniting of the
threads being imperfect, this having been effected by what is known as the "simple
turn."
By our arrangement on the contrary a solid and durable selvage is obtained as
the union of the threads is complete and obtained by a "double turn." This "double
turn" is alone practical since if it were triple this would simply amount to doubling

page_text: 32
"
one of the threads of our "turn," and if quadruple to doubling both threads. In fact
"turn
any
that is not "simple" can only be derived from the "double turn
without adding to the solidity of the selvage or affording any other advantage.
:
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 of the Drawings annexed is a front elevation of our peculiar Harness
mechanism for central lists or selvages.
Figure 2 is a corresponding side elevation partly in section.
A is an open frame which with its two adjustable feet or lugs permits of the fixing
of the improved Harness mechanism to the top rail a¹ of any loom. These two feet
with the vertically slotted piece a admit of the regulation or adjustment of the height
of the apparatus which varies only slightly for different looms. The frame A carries
the elongated plate B on opposite sides of which are mounted the rollers e e¹ for
guiding the healds and the pins or axes for keeping the healds separate. This plate B
also carries at its lower end the rollers g and k and the guard plate G. o o are the heald
cords provided as usual with eyes o" through which are passed the warp threads ch.
The heald cords on one side of the plate B pass round the small rollers g and those on
the opposite side round the rollers k. The rollers g have tubular or hollow axes so as
to admit of the passage therethrough of the fixed threads fx of the warp. The frame A
carries an axle or spindle a on which are mounted the two drums cc' and the two
pulleys d d¹. The pulley d¹ and the drum c¹ are both fast on the axle so as to rotate
together but the drum c and pulley d are in one piece and are mounted loose on the
spindle. The healds o which are composed of thin leather thongs are passed round
the pulleys d d to which they are also fixed to avoid all slipping and ensure their
following the movement of the pulleys. The drawings show clearly how these heald
thongs pass over the various pulleys. To the two drums c and c¹ are fixed two cords
the ends of which after being wound round the drums are respectively attached one to
each of the tension springs 6 fixed to a support which is attached to one of the sides
of the frame A and the other to the levers 6 working on axes m carried in the
support v. t is the warp beam and R the warp roller. t is the breast beam and S the
work beam or roller as is well understood.
From what has been stated as regards the cords wound round the drums c and c¹
and the attachment of these cords to the levers b it follows that when one drum is
turned in one direction the other under the influence of the second lever will turn in
the reverse direction thus producing a continual to-and-fro vertical movement of the
eyes o¹¹ of the healds which movement is inverted round the rollers g and round the
fixed warp threads fx passing through them. The said Harness mechanism may be
actuated by cams or eccentrics on the cam shaft of the loom.
The action of the mechanism is as follows:-
At starting, the two levers 6 are at the same point that is to say the healds being
raised all the warp threads will be together or in the same plane. At this moment the
eyes o" of the healds will be, (for the first and second "turn") on the underside of
the rollers and that is to say at a, a, a, a, (see figure 3). So soon as the healds
have operated, that is to say when the threads shall have been opened the eyes oll
following the movemens of the levers b (the first turn proceeding from left to right
and the second turn from right to left) will assume respectively the positions a³, a²,
Figure 3. The weft shoot then passes in the direction of the arrow the slay beats up
and the connection of the threads is effected, the four warp threads c h passed through
the heald eyes o" being turned two and two over the fixed warp threads fx passed
through the hollow axes of the rollers g. Under the influence of the levers 6 the
eyes o return, (the first turn proceeding from right to left, the second from left to
right) and take the positions a, a, a, a³ (figure 4) the next shoot passing in the
reverse direction (see arrow) forms a new junction which completes the preceeding
The solidity and security of this connection or liaison of the threads will be
obvious since there is an union of the said warp threads turning in inverse directions
round the fixed threads. It is this peculiarity of connection or liaison of these threads
one.
1

page_text: which constitutes the "double turn" an enlarged diagram plan of which is shown at
Figure 4 wherein fx are the fixed warp threads, ch the warp threads which are
twisted or double turned in opposite directions round the fixed threads fx and s s are
the interlocking shuttle or weft threads.
The cutting of the list or selvage thus obtained is effected by means of a " temple-
cutter of which Figures 5 and 6 represent respectively a side elevation and a plan
viewed from above.
This "temple-cutter" consists of a socket A with a supporting arm or bracket B
which enables it to be fixed to the breast beam of the loom. Within this socket slides
a bar C maintained by a spring c. The extremity of this bar C is provided with two
ears D d and, with a series of spiked rollers f. At F G is the cutter with its tail piece,
which is maintained depressed by the spring I. The cutting of the shoot of weft is
effected by the up and down movement imparted to the cutter by the slay. Thus
when the slay effects the "beat up" it pushes against the tail of the cutter and causes
it to assume the position indicated in dotted lines. The "beat up" having been
accomplished the slay retires to allow of the passage of the shuttle then the tail of the
cutter being no longer retained resumes its original position under the action of the
spring I, and the cutter G rises and severs the shoot of weft. The dotted line z
represents the woven fabric.
The use of the "Temple-cutter" is not indispensable for all those fabrics which
have to undergo the process of fulling. In fact the pieces being torn or separated
before the fulling the shrinkage of the wool under the fulling process will cause the
raw edge of the tear to disappear.
When using the cutter which we do for all fabrics not requiring to be fulled the
four bobbins carrying the selvage special warp may be dispensed with and the ordinary
warp threads from the warp beam itself may be employed instead. Then the cutter
cutting the fabric shoot by shoot-the warp threads will relax as each shoot is severed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we claim is :-
1. The herein described harness mechanism for imparting a double turn or twist to
the warp threads of the central lists or selvages of fabrics whereby owing to the
peculiar intertwisting of the warp and the interlocking of the weft obtained a firmer
or more durable selvage is produced.
2. The herein described peculiar "Temple-cutter" and its use in combination with
the aforesaid Harness mechanism whereby the special warp threads of the central list
or selvage may be replaced by the threads from the warp beam direct as specified.
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