A NEW AND USEFUL OR IMPROVED MACHINE FOR SEWING CLOTH OR OTHER MATERIAL
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Aaron Faulkner Emery, of the State of Massachusetts,
of the United States of America, for the Invention of "A NEW AND
USEFUL OR IMPROVED MACHINE FOR SEWING CLOTH OR OTHER MATERIAL."-
A communication from William M. Horn, a resident of the said State
of Massachusetts.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Aaron Faulkner Emery at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition and
Declaration, on the 26th April 1858, pursuant to the 9th Section of the
Patent Law Amendment Act, 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, BE IT KNOWN,
that I, AARON FAULKNER EMERY, of the State of Massachusetts, of the United
States of America, do hereby declare that I am in possession of an Invention
of "A NEW AND USEFUL OR IMPROVED MACHINE FOR SEWING CLOTH OR OTHER
MATERIAL," and that the nature of the same and the manner in which it is to
be performed or to be constructed and made to operate, are fully set forth in the
following Specification and the accompanying Drawings, of which Figure 1 is
a plan or top view of the said machine; Figure 2 is a side elevation of it;
Figure 3 is a top view of the operative parts which lie under the table or bed
on which the cloth is to be placed or supported while being sewed; Figure 4
is a transverse section of the bed, and the parts delineated in Figure 3;
Figure 5 is a side view of the rotary hook and the spool, and exhibits the
tooth or point of the hook as just having passed between the needle and its
thread, and drawn the latter in the form of a loop away from the former.

page_text: Figure A is a side view of the bobbin or spool; Figure B is a transverse
section of this latter; Figure C is an edge view of the rotary hook, and shows
the spiral groove by which a loop is held in a proper position with respect to
the needle and the hook, in order that the latter may seize another or the
next loop and draw it through the first; Figure D is a representation of the
under side of a piece of cloth with a row of chain stitches in it; Figure D' is
a similar view of a piece of cloth, but with a binding thread passed through
the loops of the chain stitch, the binding thread being shown as colored blue,
while the thread of the chain stitch is denoted as colored red.
The nature of my Invention consists in a combination of a chain stitch
sewing mechanism, and a mechanism for introducing an unlooped binding
thread through each loop of the chain stitch.
It is well known that ordinary chain stitch sewing can be readily unravelled
or drawn out of cloth by simply taking hold of and pulling on one end of the
thread. The object of my Invention is to prevent the thread from being
unravelled, and I accomplish this by introducing into each loop of chain stitch
sewing an unlooped thread, which I term a binding thread, it being drawn up
against the cloth by the loops of the chain stitch sewing.
I am aware that it is not new to perform sewing by forming a series of
loops by a needle, and passing a binding thread through them by means of a
shuttle or mechanism, which in its operation will cast each loop about a spool
in a manner to cause the spool to pass through the loop. I am also aware
that it is not new to interchain the loops of one thread with those of another,
so that while the loops of one pass through the cloth, they shall be held in
place by the loops of the other. Therefore I lay no claim to any such
Inventions. My Invention performs sewing which differs materially from all
such, as that which is made by it is produced by two threads, one of which is
not looped while the other is looped, and has each loop passed through another
loop of the same thread in the manner of the ordinary chain stitch.
In carrying out my Invention, therefore, I make use, first, of mechanism
for forming a series of loops in one thread, and passing each through the
other, in the manner of the chain stitch; second, of mechanism for intro-
ducing an unlooped thread through each loop of the first or other thread.
A combination containing such elements I will now proceed to describe.
In the Drawings, F denotes the bed or table of a sewing machine as 3
supported by a stand G, carrying a goose neck or bent arm H, the latter being
arranged with respect to the table, as shown in Figures 1 and 2. I is the needle
carrier or lever which plays or turns on a fulcrum K, and is put in vertical
movement by means of a crank pin L, Figure 4, which extends into a long

page_text: slot N formed horizontally through the lower arm of the said needle carrier.
This crank pin projects from a wheel or plate M, which is fixed on and rotated
by the driving shaft O arranged under the bed or table F; P, in Figure 2,
exhibits the needle which should be provided with an eye, arranged at a short
distance above the lower end or point, and transversely of the machine. The
shaft bears a driving pulley R, around which an endless belt S, from
a suitable motor, may pass to put the machine in operation. T, Figures
4 and 5, denotes the cloth feeder, which may be operated by a cam U and a
spring V, or any other suitable mechanism. In connection with the needle P
or the looping mechanism, I employ a rotary block hook affixed to the shaft
O, the catch or point of the hook being shown at h, as projecting from a
round block W, which is fixed on the outer end of the driving shaft. The
said block W is recessed on its front or formed with a cylindrical cavity i,
whose mouth is made flaring or conical, and to serve as the seat of the flat
spool or bobbin a, which lays in the same as shown in Figures 2 and 4.
Furthermore, there is a slot k made through the block and into the cavity i,
such slot being alongside of or close to the catch part or hook h, and of
sufficient length not only to allow the needle to pass down into the cavity, and
there remain long enough for the hook to perform its operation of seizing a
loop on the needle, but to cause the block W not to interfere with the proper
movements of the needle. In rear of the hook or catch h and extending
partially around the block W, and so as to enter the mouth of the cavity i, is
a spiral groove l, which, with the outer surface of the block W, should be so
formed as to cause a loop after being seized by the hook, not only to be passed
about the spool in a manner to cause the latter to pass through such loop, but
to present the loop and hold it in a proper position for the hook to carry
another loop through it during the revolution of the shaft O.
In Figure 2 the threads are shown in blue and red, that marked f pro-
ceeding from the shuttle a, while d, d', denote the loop. The part d' is shown
as passing across the front side of the shuttle, while the part d is held in the
spiral groove, and extends back of the hook. The bobbin is held in place or
against its seat by a yielding or spring holder g, which simply keeps it from
pulling away from its seat and holds it up so loosely as to enable the thread of
the loop to pass between the bobbin and the seat thereof. During the revo-
lution of the hook hit takes a loop from the needle, and in its onward move-
ment the back part of the loop passes into the spiral groove, while the front
part of the loop is passing across the front face of the bobbin. The continued
rotation of the hook causes the loop to pass entirely around the block W, and
to slip off the hook so as to rest in the spiral groove, and be held in a position

page_text: for the hook to take the next loop through it, which having taken place, what
was the back part of the loop will slip between the shuttle and its seat, and
the whole loop be drawn entirely off the block W, the binding thread f being
put through it in consequence of such loop being drawn about the shuttle as
described. The action of the hook or the machanism causes the loop and the
binding thread to be drawn closely into the cloth.
By means of my said machine, ordinary chain stitch sewing without a
binding thread may be produced, provided the shuttle and its thread be
removed from the machine. Thus, the machine can be employed to great
advantage in sewing the chain stitch, either with or without a binding thread.
The thread of the needle is shown as passing through a tension apparatus
of peculiar construction, it being exhibited in vertical section in Figure 6.
On a standard a² is a conical frustrum 63, surmounted by a thimble or cap c²,
which plays freely up and down on the standard a³, and is pressed toward the
part 6 by a helical spring d² acting against a nut e³, screwed on the standard.
The thread passes between the cap and the frustrum and through the latter.
This tension apparatus operates to excellent advantage, as by means of it
the thread may be taken from an ordinary spool which may lie on the floor of
the room, or in any convenient place near the machine.
What I claim as my Invention is a combination of mechanism for sewing
the chain stitch with one thread, and mechanism for passing or introducing an
unlooped binding thread, through the loops of the chain stitch, whereby by
means of an unlooped binding thread a chain stitch formed entirely by one
thread may be held in place in the cloth or material in which it may be made,
or be prevented from being unravelled therefrom.
I also claim the tension apparatus constructed substantially as described.
In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my signature and seal, this
3rd day of April, 1858.
AARON FAULKNER EMERY. (L.S.)