IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PROCESS OF COCOON SILK WINDING AND TWISTING, AND IN APPARATUS FOR WINDING AND TWISTING SUCH SILK AND OTHER FIBRES
Year: 1884

page_text: I, JOSEPH LAVENAZ of Lyons in the Republic of France, Manufacturer do
hereby declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PROCESS
OF COCOON SILK WINDING AND TWISTING, AND IN APPARATUS FOR WINDING AND
TWISTING SUCH SILK AND OTHER FIBRES to be as follows:-
The present invention relates to a process by which thread with a regular
twist is obtained from, raw silk at one operation, that is, to a process according to
which a thread is obtained from raw silk twisted warm during the operation of
reeling from the cocoons. This raw silk twisted warm at the same time that it is
unwound possesses certain peculiarities and qualities foreign to the threads of raw
silk formed by several successive operations.
I have obtained two new kinds of thread in describing which, I propose to retain
for them the names respectively of "poils" and "trames" by which the corres-
ponding old kinds of thread are generally known in the silk trade.
Several filaments from the cocoons form raw silk thread; we denominate "poil"
a thread of raw silk thrown or twisted upon itself, and "trame" the union of two
or more raw silk threads twisted together.
"
I lay especial stress on the novel character of these new threads "poils" and
I trames," because although many attempts have been made to obtain raw silk
threads twisted at the time of reeling they have hitherto failed.
The usual means adopted for the purpose have been to lay groups of filaments
one around the other sometimes in one direction, sometimes in another, in such a
manner that during the subsequent operations and notably at the moment of
ungumming the filaments straighten out again and the labour spent in uniting
them by twisting is lost.
My process avoids this defect and ensures a perfectly regular and uniform twist
in the same direction throughout the length of the threads. Moreover by means
of the apparatus used in carrying out my process the number of turns in a given
length can be regulated.
Threads formed of filaments twisted hot and moist bind together intimately and
effect a perfect union so that the thread will not open or fray while undergoing the
operations of the loom.

page_text: The threads also possess elasticity and tenacity and the twist given by my
process to "poils " and trames" (single or compound threads) is scarcely visible
so dense is the thread. The threads can only be separated by scouring in a hot
alkaline lye and this new class of thread retains the twist after the operations of
scouring and dying.
The apparatus by which I carry out this improved method of winding and
twisting cocoon silk consists of a feeding wheel cylinder or its equivalent having a
uniform rotary motion which draws off the raw silk from the cocoons while in a
damp and heated state and delivers it to a rotating flyer which twists and winds
it upon a bobbin loosely mounted on a fixed stud axle surrounding the flyer spindle.
The bobbin turns under the slight tangential traction which it receives from the
"poil" or trame."
"
"
The cocoons are placed in a basin of hot water and the filaments of silk are led
through one or more guides of glass, porcelain or other suitable material and laid
around the feed wheel or cylinder and thence pass, through similar guides carried
by the flyer which by its rotation twists the filaments and lays them on the
bobbin.
The stud axle is carried by a cast iron rail of a length sufficient to receive the
desired number of spindles. This stud axle serves as a guide for the flyer spindle
which rests in a step bearing, on the copping rail.
Rotary motion is imparted to the flyer spindle by means of a pulley mounted
loosely on the lower end of the stud axle.
The pulley carries by means of pendent arms a collar provided with a pin or stud
-which-slides-in-a-groove-cut-longitudinally-of-the-spindle-and-thus-allows-of-the
spindle rising and falling while being rotated.
The combined working of the three principal instruments namely the feed
wheel or its equivalent, the fly frame and the loose bobbin permits of giving to
the thread while being distributed the required number of twists in a given unit
of length.
The forms and dimensions of these several instruments may be varied.
The feeding apparatus may be motionless or may be replaced by one or more
friction surfaces to regulate the speed of the thread.
The combined apparatus above described can be used for any threads either of
raw or worked silk, cotton, wool flax or hemp which may require to be twisted
simultaneously with another operation. It can also be used to lay threads around
a central thread.
If necessary I can interpose between the first set of guides the Italian crossing
by means of a "tavelette" or the Chambon warping device produced by the
crossing of two adjacent threads and the basin of hot water may be replaced by a
set of reels if it be desired to unwind the skeins and to twist their threads either
into "poils" or "trames."
This new apparatus automatically ensures the regularity of the twist or turns
to the yard whatever the varying diameter of the bobbin and the amount of twist
can be easily adjusted.
The apparatus above described is applicable to the winding and twisting threads
of all kind to, which it may be desired to give a mathematically regular twist.

page_text: I JOSEPH LAVENAZ of Lyons in the Republic of France, Manufacturer do hereby
declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PROCESS OF COCOON
SILK WINDING AND TWISTING AND IN APPARATUS FOR WINDING AND TWISTING
SUCH SILK AND OTHER FIBRES and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The present invention relates to a process by which thread with a regular twist
is obtained from raw silk at one operation, that is, to a process according to which
a thread is obtained from raw silk twisted warm during the operation of reeling
from the cocoons. This raw silk twisted warm, at the same time that it is unwound,
possesses certain peculiarities and qualities foreign to the threads of raw silk
formed by several successive operations.
"
I have obtained two new kinds of thread in describing which I propose to retain
for them the names respectively of "poils" and " trames by which the corre-
sponding old kinds of thread are generally known in the silk trade.
Several filaments from the cocoons forin raw silk thread. Manufacturers deno-
minate by "poil," a thread of raw silk thrown or twisted upon itself, and by
"trame" the union of two or more raw silk threads twisted together.
"8
I lay especial stress on the novel character of these new threads" poils" and
trames" because although many attempts have been made to obtain raw silk
threads twisted at the time of reeling, they have hitherto failed.
The usual means adopted for the purpose have been to lay groups of filaments
one around the other, sometimes in one direction, sometimes in another, in such a
manner that during the subsequent operations, and notably at the moment of
ungumming, the filaments straighten out again and the labour spent in uniting
them by twisting is lost.
My process avoids this defect, and ensures a perfectly regular and uniform twist
in the same direction, throughout the length of the threads. Moreover by means
of the apparatus used in carrying out my process the number of turns in a given
length can be regulated.
Threads formed of filaments twisted hot and and moist, bind together intimately
and effect a perfect union so that the thread will not open or fray while under-
going the various operations of the loom.
The threads also possess elasticity and tenacity and the twist given by my
process to "poils" and "trames" (single or compound threads) is scarcely visible
so dense is the thread; the threads can only be separated by scouring in a hot
alkaline lye, and this new class of threads retain the twist after the operations of
Bcouring and dyeing.
The apparatus by which I carry out this improved method or process of winding
and twisting cocoon silk is illustrated in the accompanying drawing.
This apparatus consists essentially in the combination of a feeding wheel A,
drawing off and delivering filaments of silk obtained from the reeling. off or
L

page_text: unwinding of the cocoons, with a rotating flyer B and a loose bobbin C supported
upon a fixed hollow sleeve or stud axle D, surrounding the flyer spindle G. Tho
bobbin turns under the slight tangential traction, which it receives from a single
thread of raw silk composed of several filaments thrown or twisted to form a
"poil," or form two or more threads of raw silk forming a "trame."
In the arrangement represented by way of example in the drawing annexed, the
filaments of silk obtained from the unwinding of the cocoons placed in a basin of
hot water E, after passing through ring guides a and b of glass, agate, porcelain, or
other suitable material, are laid around the cylinder or wheel A to which rotary
motion is given, and thence through similar eyes or guides c c c, carried by the
flyer B, which by its rotation twists the filaments and lays them upon the bobbin C.
The sleeve or stud axle D is carried by the cast iron rail F which may be of any
length sufficient to receive the desired number of spindles. This sleeve or stud
axle D serves as a guide to the flyer spindle G, which rests in a step bearing H
carried on the copping rail I, in order to distribute the thread upon the bobbin C.
Rotary motion is transmitted to the flyer spindle by means of the pulley J mounted
loosely on the stud axle D below the rail F. This pulley receives motion through
a band from the main driving shaft.
The pulley J carries, by means of pendent arms, a collar K furnished with a pin
or stud, that slides in a groove cut longitudinally of the spindle, G, in order to
transmit to this spindle rotary motion whilst permitting it to rise and fall freely,
so as to regulate the distribution of the thread upon the bobbin, and this pulley is
maintained in position by a suitable ring or nut fixed to the stud axle D.
It will thus be seen that the apparatus is composed essentially (1) of a feed
wheel or cylinder having the double function of reeling or unwinding the filaments
of silk and furnishing a supply of raw silk regularly and constantly to the twisting
apparatus; (2) of a flyer or fly frame which receives the thread and twists it and
distributes it upon the bobbin, the said bobbin being free and loose upon its axle
and only receiving rotary or axial motion from the pull of the thread itself.
The combined action or function of the three principal instruments (the feed
wheel or cylinder, the fly frame, and the twisting bobbin free to be dragged by the
thread) permits of giving to the thread while being distributed the number of
twists desired in a unit of length, that is to say an absolutely regular twist that
can be easily varied and regulated at will by changing the relative speeds of the
feed wheel or cylinder and the flyer.
These several instruments or members of the apparatus may be varied as to
their forms, their dimensions and their arrangement, and the materials of which
they are made.
Thus the feed wheel may be a cylinder, or a sort of reel or prism, of metal wood
or other substance, clothed or not with cloth or india rubber &c and it may be
heated to dry the thread. It may be formed of two or more cylinders rolling one
on the other or more or less distant from each other, and one or more may be
driven, the others remaining stationary.
It will be understood that a complete machine, as has been above mentioned, is
composed of a variable number of twisting spindles disposed in a straight, circular,
or elliptical line.
The feed cylinders (when more than one is used) may be so arranged as to
permit of the interruption of the working of one thread and the easy piecing of a
broken thread without stopping the others. The feeding or delivery apparatus
may be motionless, that is to say it may be replaced by one or more friction
surfaces, so as to regulate the speed of the travel of the thread by means of the
resistance due to friction. Similarly the flyer may take various forms and positions,
having one or more arms, with one or several eyes, and may be operated by a
driving belt, gearing, a drum, cord, &c. The twisting and distributing bobbin will
be cylindrical or conical, or a sort of reel, a prism, a pyramid or a truncated
pyramid, of wood, metal or other substance. I have said above that this bobbin
was loose on its support or axle, and that it did not receive any rotary motion

page_text: except by the traction due to the pull of the thread which is being distributed
upon it. This traction may however be assisted by the motion of the spindle of
the flyer, or by any other motion given for this end.
.
The applications of the above described apparatus are numerous. It can be used
for any threads, either of raw or worked silk, cotton, wool, linen or hemp, which
may be required to be twisted simultaneously with or following immediately upon
another operation. Thus for example my apparatus permits of the production of
threads for "poils" and "trames"; of the twisting of one thread or several
threads simultaneously with the reeling or unwinding of the thread or threads
from hanks or bobbins of any kind; and of a regular twist being given imme-
diately and without interruption to the threads coming from any other apparatus
used in the manufacture, such as the filtering tanks, doubling apparatus, dye baths,
and glazing and sizeing tanks &c.
My process is applicable also to the twisting of many threads of the like or
different natures immediately after having united them, and by the simultaneous
operations of reeling assembling and twisting, and is specially applicable to
enveloping a central thread or core with other threads, such as filaments of silk as
they issue from the basin, threads of raw or worked silk, threads of gold or silver
or other metal, twisted around a central thread. In this operation an intermediate
flyer may be. employed with advantage because my new process of twisting by the
bobbin on which the threads are regularly distributed permits of the threads being
taken in all positions and under all conditions for the purpose of twisting them
while regularly distributing them upon the bobbin.
It will be understood I can, if it be necessary, interpose between the ring
guides a and b the "Italian crossing" by means of an open bobbin or reel
("tavelette") or that known as the " Chambon," produced by the crossing of two
adjoining threads; and that the basin of hot water E can be replaced by a set of
reels, or spools if it be desired, at one operation, to unwind the skein and twist the
threads either for "poils" or "trames."
In every case my new apparatus offers this important advantage viz:-that it
ensure the automatic regularity of the twist, that is to say the number of twists or
turns to the yard at all times, whatever may be the varying diameter of the
bobbin, and it moreover permits of varying and regulating the extent or amount of
this twist by modifying the speed of rotation given to the flyer or to the feed
cylinder.
It will be understood that the desired result may also be attained by employing
separate driving mechanism, one for the fly frame or flyer, and another for the
bobbin, but this combination of such an apparatus renders it difficult to regulate
the speed so as to compensate for the gradually increasing thickness of the bobbin
as the winding proceeds, whereas by the arrangement herein above described this
regulation is effected automatically and without the necessity for employing any
special apparatus for that purpose.
It will be seen therefore that my process consists essentially in effecting
simultaneously and in the same apparatus the spinning and the twisting in
a regular and controllable manner of the filaments of silk drawn from off the
cocoons, the said process being carried out by the combined use of the following
parts or members :-
a) A reeling apparatus (such as is above described) consisting of a feeding
cylinder having a uniform rotary motion, or other equivalent mechanism producing
on the one hand the reeling of the silk from off the cocoons, and on the other hand
the constant and regular supply or delivery of the thread or threads to the
twisting apparatus.
b) A twisting apparatus composed of a flyer or fly frame receiving an uniform
rotary movement, and of a twisting and distributing bobbin loose on its axle or
guide tube, the said flyer receiving the thread from the feeding apparatus and
conducting it to the bobbin, as hereinabove described.

page_text: My process is susceptible of various applications, the chief of which I have
indicated above, as well as of various modifications as to the arrangement or
assemblage of the several parts or member of the apparatus in or upon a machine
or frame, which may be of straight, circular or other form.
From the foregoing it will be understood that the threads "poils" and "trames"
produced by my process constitute absolutely new products possessing new qualities
and essentially distinct from the products made up to the present time by the dry
and cold process; as the gum of the cocoons or raw silk does not become soft or
acquire its power of cohesion until it is subjected to a rather high temperature.
I may remark that the "poils" and "trames" made by my process cannot be
mistaken for the well known threads of like name, nor with the threads which
others have endeavoured to spin direct from the cocoon; which threads are not
regularly twisted, although having the appearance of a regular twist, but are of
such a kind that neither the direction nor the number of turns to a unit of length
can be precisely ascertained; which fictitious twist disappears, as has been above
said, when the thread or threads are ungummed. On the contrary my new
products after the operations of scouring (comprising ungumming, boiling, and
blenching) and dyeing retain the twist they have received.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The improved process of manufacturing silk threads ("poils" and "trames")
consisting in twisting the filaments or threads of raw-silk-as-they are drawn from
the cocoons_and-while-in-a-hot-and moist condition, whereby threads are produced
possessing a regular and permanent twist, substantially as described with reference
to the accompanying Drawing.
2. The use in combination, of a feeding or delivery cylinder or apparatus, a flyer
or fly frame, and a bobbin free to turn upon its axis, for the purpose of converting
into thread possessing a mathematically controlled twist, filaments taken direct
from the cocoon.
3. The use of the apparatus above described for manufacturing threads with
a determined amount of twist therein.
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