Improvements in the Manufacture of Beaded Tulle and the like, and Means or Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Aug., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 6th May, 1894-Accepted, 8th Aug., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Beaded Tulle and the like, and
Means or Apparatus therefor.
I, HIPPOLYTE JULES FRANÇOIs, of Place de la Nation, Calais, Department
of Pas de Calais, in the French Republic, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows :-
grain
"
This invention has for object to manufacture beaded or grained tulle in looms
and it consists mainly in forming the beads or
at the same time that the
fabric is woven, using for this purpose the same warp and weft threads as are
employed in weaving and which traverse the beads before being woven into
fabric.
To obtain this result I provide the ordinary tulle weaving loom with the following
attachments :-
1. Tubes for containing and holding in position the beads which are traversed
by the warp or weft threads;
2. A suitable number of metal bars or rods for the distribution of the beads as
they leave the tubes ;
3. A strong thread (or preferably a wire) extending throughout the loom in a
longitudinal direction and capable of rectilinear movement in the direction of its
thickness such movement being effected through the medium of special apparatus
arranged on either side; and
4. Rigid bars arranged edgeways and parallel to the interior of the loom in the
direction of its height and adapted to support the thread or wire mentioned above
and to prevent it from bending during the movement thereof.
The motion of the bars and distributing mechanism is produced by means of a
Jacquard machine.
In carrying out my invention the beads are placed in tubes the length and
diameter of which may vary according to the quantity and size of the beads to be
distributed. These tubes are each formed with a longitudinal slot that is made
sufficiently narrow to prevent the escape of the beads should the thread break.
Within each tube the beads rest upon the upper surface of a small cylinder through
which passes the same thread as traverses the beads.
Each tube is opened at the upper part to the full extent, while at the lower part
it is only partially opened so as to prevent the cylinder therein escaping when it
reaches the limit of its downward stroke. The lower part of each tube should
be situated above the threads so that these may be fed to them in a direct and easy
manner.
At the lower portion of each cylinder there is provided a hook capable of readily
sliding within the longitudinal slot or groove in the corresponding tube and con-
nected by a spiral spring to a cross bar arranged to move upwardly along the said
tubes under the action of counterweights. The cross bar is provided with pins or
projections arranged to slide within grooves formed in two parallel bars, the ends
of which are connected by two parallel cross pieces the upper of which carries at
its ends, pulleys on which are wound the threads or cords from which the said
counterweights are suspended. To the lower cross piece the said tubes are connected
by means of studs adapted to retain the tube in place but capable of turning upon
small metal plates the arrangement being such as to allow the tubes to oscillate on
the studs while preventing them from turning about their own axes, as this would
interfere with the work.
At their upper part, the tubes are connected with a movable bar by studs,

page_text: preferably of metal, that enter openings provided for that purpose in the said
movable bar.
The frame formed by the grooved bars and cross pieces is connected with the
floor or secured to the standards of the frame work of the machine.
The bars which I propose to employ for guiding the threads of the fabric and
distributing the beads are preferably three in number though of course this number
may vary. These bars which for distinction I will call c, d and e, occupy the same
position as that ordinarily given to them in weaver's looms, but they are not
perforated in the usual manner.
The first bar c is provided at its lower part with apertures serving to form the
connection with the slotted tubes as hereinbefore mentioned. Above these apertures
and at right angles to the bar, are arranged rods which for distinction, I will
call e¹³ adapted to guide the warp thread traversing the beads during the operation.
The threads press laterally upon these rods which are situated a little distance
above slides or brackets adapted to receive the rods which are to retain the said
guiding and distributing bars in the proper position and on the desired level in
the loom.
A series of slides or ways are provided above or opposite to the said rods c¹³ and
at a distance from these varying according to the size of the beads employed; the
adjustment of this distance is provided for in the following manner :-
The bar proper is made in two parts screwed one to the other and adjustable in
a vertical direction. One of these parts is formed opposite to each of the said
metal rods with a vertical slide-way in which move the said rods c¹ c³ which are
secured at right angles to the other part of the compound bar which is arranged
behind the first mentioned part. If it be required to decrease the distance between
the slide-ways and rods the secondly mentioned part is lowered, and if the distance
is to be reduced, the said part is raised.
The said series of slides or ways serve the purpose of enabling small flexible
points fixed to the bars d and e to emerge at proper times. When the loom is at
rest these flexible points are concealed between the said slides or ways of the
bar c.
The bar d is provided alternately, and on the same level as the slide-ways of the
bar c, with flexible points and with slide-ways that are larger than those of
the bar c. The bar e is also fitted with flexible points. The points of the bar d
should be so situated as to be capable of falling into the corresponding slide-ways
of the bar c and the points of the bar e should be situated within the slide-ways of
the bar d in readiness to fall into the slide-ways of the bar c. The arrangement
of the slide-ways of the bar d enables this bar to operate without being interfered
with by the bar e, that is to say, by its flexible points on this bar.
Each of the three bars c d e is retained by means of brackets, and operates under
the action of a Jacquard mechanism such as is usually applied to tulle weaving
looms.
The object of this arrangement of flexible points is as follows:-
The bars d and e to which they are fixed being capable of moving to the right
and left under the action of the Jacquard mechanism, causes these flexible points
to move at the proper times into the slide-ways of the bars c and d and to emerge
or project beyond the bar e in such manner that the warp threads sliding against
the rods and past the corresponding slide-ways of the bars c and d may be
shifted so as to leave their guides, under the action of the flexible points which
they meet. The arrangements hereinafter described, enable these points to descend
into the proper slide-ways either jointly, or separately, according to the kind of
ground-work it is desired to produce, and the method of operation adopted.
The operation of the three bars c d e is as follows :-
As these bars are arranged one behind the other, it is necessary to cause the
threads that pass through the beads to leave the rods e' by the action of the
Jacquard machine, as follows :-
The bar d is caused to move to the right and the points thereof to enter the

page_text: slide-ways in the bar e so as to meet the said threads. As the movement of the
bar & continues in the same direction, the bar c is at the same time caused to move
the corresponding distance from right to left. The threads stretched upon c' then
leave these bars, or in other words, they loose the support of c' and acquire that
of d' instead. By these movements, the threads stretched upon the rods c', which
they have not left, are caused to remain in a stretched condition.
The operation to be performed for stretching the threads which rest upon the
rods or the flexible point of the bar e is the same, except that in this case the
bar e moves to the right while the bars c and d move from right to left.
It will thus be seen that owing to the improved arrangement of the bars,
the threads may be operated in any manner suited to the particular ground work or
design of the fabric to be woven in a Jacquard loom.
The distribution of the beads or grain is effected as follows:-
On each side of the machine there are provided identical and symmetrical
mechanism. It will therefore be sufficient to describe only one of these arrange-
ments of mechanism. This mechanism comprises a distributing thread that passes
over a pulley secured to the end of a rod connected to a lever fixed upon a shaft.
The thread is driven from a point, outside of the loom, by a pulley secured to the
end of an arm carried by a laterally adjustable support, and is stretched by weights.
It is retained by bars capable of being operated by Jacquard mechanism so that
its operation may censo at any time at will. Upon the aforesaid shaft is also keyed
another lever that is connected to the corresponding lever at the opposite side of
the machine by a connecting rod and links or joints. One of these levers is operated
direct by the Jacquard machine with which it is connected by a rod. The aforesaid
laterally adjustable support is secured upon a vertically adjustable support that
may be in the form of an angle plate, the adjustment is being effected by the aid
of pin and slot connections. To the laterally adjustable support is attached a
metal plate supporting a bent arm or knee which is secured to the said plate_by
pin and slot connections so as to permit of its being adjusted vertically. The
extent of motion of the rod carrying the pulley over which the distributing thread
passes is limited by the knee. The said metal plate is provided with a horizontal
arm supporting an angle bar capable of oscillating about a pin or journal and
provided with a groove, in which is adapted to slide a link or joint piece connected
by a rod to the corresponding angle bar at the opposite end of the machine and
which receives motion from the Jacquard machine, direct.
The beads may be passed upon warp threads as well as upon embroidering
threads and therefore the method of beading or graining herein described is
applicable to plain tulles as well as to embroidered tulles. "It is however in all.
cases necessary, for rolling up the tulle, as it is completed, to employ a pair of
rollers, one of which should be provided with points or teeth while the other is
smooth.
My invention is applicable to beading or graining other fabrics than plain tulle
such as embroidered tulle, ordinary or Valencienne lace. The beads instead of
being strung on the warp or weft threads may be strung on the embroidery threads.
when these are used.
August 1902

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Beaded Tulle and the like, and
Means or Apparatus therefor.
1, HIPPOLYTE JULES FRANÇOIs, of Place de la Nation, Calais, Department of
Pas de Calais, in the French Republic, Tulle Designer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The manufacture of beaded tulle has heretofore necessitated two perfectly distinct
operations; viz. :-first the actual weaving of the tulle proper on an ordinary tulle-
loom; and, secondly the subsequent insertion into the said woven fabric, of special
attachment-threads carrying the beads and the fastening of the same to the woven
fabric.
Now, according to my invention, I'manufacture beaded tulle in such a manner that
the whole process is performed during the weaving-operation by means of a tulle
loom fitted with special bead-distributing apparatus and that in the finished fabric
the beads are carried by the thread of the warp.
The advantages of this new method of manufacture are obvious: first, saving in
labour and time; secondly, the production of tulle the designs or patterns of which
are unobscured on account of the omission of the supplementary threads for attaching
the beads; and, finally, the secure attachment of the beads.
The following description will explain the principle on which my invention is
based and the means which I employ for carrying it into effect.
As is well known, tulle consists of a series of warp-threads parallel to one another
whilst the piece is still stretched in the loom, and of a series of weft-threads each of
which is turned or twisted one or more times around each warp-thread. The weft-
threads are comprised in two sets, one of which travels in one direction and the
other in a direction parallel and opposite thereto; and the twisting and interlacing
of these threads around and between the warp-threads forms meshes which when the
warp is no longer stretched in the loom, are of a regular hexagonal shape.
Now assuming that a certain number of beads have been strung or threaded on a
warp-thread below the place, which will hereinafter be called the twisting-place,
where the weft-thread is twisted round the same, then it will be readily understood
that it will be possible, by means of a suitable device acting at the proper time, to
cause the top bead to move along the warp-thread up to a point situate above the
twisting-place. After the bobbin-carriage has passed across the warp-thread, the
bead will be caught thereon by the weft-thread of the said bobbin-carriage and will
thus he fastened on each side by a weft-thread. The operation just described with
reference to one warp-thread and one bead may take place with reference to as many
of the warp-threads, and at such intervals of time, as to produce a beaded tulle in
accordance with a given pattern.
It will, of course, be understood that the designs formed by the beads may be
varied according as beads are inserted simultaneously in the tulle on all the warp-
threads or only on certain of them, for instance only on every third warp-thread.
Furthermore, the design may be varied by allowing the bobbin-carriages to pass one
or more times from comb to comb, without the insertion of beads into the fabric.
The distribution of the beads in the fabric may be varied by a Jacquard machine
or apparatus.
In the accompanying illustrative drawings,
Fig. 1 shows by way of example only a small piece of tulle manufactured
according to my invention, and in the condition in which it is whilst stretched in the
loom;
in this example, every warp-thread carries a bead between each pair of
adjacent weft-threads;
Fig. 2 shows a partial diagrammatic vertical cross section of an ordinary tulle-loom

page_text: Fig. 3 shows a vertical longitudinal section corresponding to 45
Fig. 4 shows diagrammatically a perspective-view of the general arrangement of
my beading-apparatus ;
Figs. 5, 54, 5, 5c, and 5º, are diagrams illustrating the mode of distributing
the beads;
Fig. 6 shows a diagrammatic view of the metallic bars serving to effect the
distribution of the beads, and
Figs. 7, 8 and 9 are detail views of these bars;
Figs. 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 illustrate the relative movements of the said bars
during the distributing operation.
Figs. 15 to 23 illustrate another apparatus for distributing and projecting the
beads,
Fig. 15 shews a front elevation thereof;
Figs. 15, 15, 15°, 15° and 15% are diagrams explanatory of the working of
the bars;
•
Figs. 16 and 17 show respectively a vertical cross-section, and a sectional plan of
this apparatus, only one set of parts being represented; and
Figs. 18 to 24 show detail views.
The machine designed to carry out my new process of manufacture of beaded
tulle consists essentially of an ordinary tulle loom which is provided with
auxiliary Jacquard apparatus and is furnished with an apparatus for distributing
the beads.
The distributing apparatus shown in Figs. 2 to 14 comprises :-
(1) For supporting the beads strung on the individual warp-threads tubes which
are placed below the path of the bobbin-carriages, are all mounted in a common
fixed frame, and are individually provided with a spring device for feeding the beads
upwards on the bead-threads;
(2) For distributing the beads at the required intervals of time and space a
suitable number of metallic bars operated by the auxiliary Jacquard apparatus of the
loom, and fitted with points, stops, or pins (hereinafter called pins), which arrest or
allow the passage of the top bead of each tube. The operation of the said pins is
regulated by the combined action of the bars, which are formed for this purpose,
with slots into which the pins enter so as to be contained therein and to allow of the
passage of the bead, and the combined working of which with the pins causes the
distribution of the beads in the manner required.
(3) For seizing the beads moved forward by the foregoing mechanism, bringing
them into position above the path of the weft, and releasing them when they have
been caught in the fabric, all without hindering the other operations of the loom, a
metallic thread or wire (hereinafter referred to as a distributing-wire) which extends
entirely across the loom and is operated by the auxiliary Jacquard apparatus by
means of intermediary devices (hereinafter fully described) in such a manner as to
perform at the proper times movements during the whole of which it remains
parallel to itself, and travels along a rectangular path (indicated by the broken.
line v, w, y, z in Fig. 2) so as not to interfere with, or be interfered with by, the
other operations of the loom.
The apparatus for distributing the beads that has been hereinbefore generally
described may be entirely dispensed with, and there may be applied to the
tulle-loom for this purpose another apparatus which will be hereinafter fully
'described.
Before proceeding to describe in detail the two arrangements of different
distributing-apparatus hereinbefore mentioned, I will describe briefly the working
of the ordinary tulle-loom with reference to Figs. 2 and 3.
A is the warp-beam; and A' is a roller upon which the finished tulle is wound.
The warp-threads are stretched vertically between these two rollers. B and Blare
guide-bars which serve to divide the warp-threads into two sets. The bobbin
carriages C and C' are arranged in two parallel rows on each side of the vertical
warp-threads and are carried by the combs D and D'. The bobbin-carriages C

page_text: and C¹ have each a groove for the reception of one of the teeth of the combs.
These combs are arranged on each side of the vertical portion of the warp-threads,
and their ends are in such proximity to each other as to leave between them only
the space necessary for the movements of the warp, so that the bobbin-carriages Č
and C can pass easily from one comb to the other. In order to effect this motion
of the bobbin-carriages, they are pushed by two landing-bars F and F1, and when
one of the rows of carriages has passed across the warp-threads a projection on the
lower part of each of the bobbin-carriages is caught and carried along by small
bars attached to rotary shafts G and G. After each passage of a set of bobbin-
-carriages from one comb to the other the bar to which the comb is attached shifts
in a longitudinal direction in such a manner that the relative positions of the two
opposite combs are changed to the extent of one tooth, that is to say the carriages
pass on to the next adjacent tooth. By this means each of the carriages executes
a succession of 'lateral movements to the right hand in the case of one comb and to
the left hand in that of the other; and during these movements the weft-threads
.are crossed and are twisted around the vertical warp-threads so as to form net-
meshes. After each revolution of the bobbins around the warp-threads, two point-
bars Hand H (each carrying a row of points or needles which enter into the
meshes) enter into the tulle and carry up, to the extent of one mesh, the meshes
just formed, so as to allow of the forination of a fresh row of meshes; the bars H
and H remain in their raised position until this fresh row of meshes has been
made. The cycle of movements just described is repeated by the loom in the
formation of each succeeding row of meshes.
The frame-work of the loom usually comprises a strengthening cross-piece l. 1
utilize this cross-piece for fixing the various mechanical parts which constitute my
first mentioned distributing-apparatus for distributing the beads.
In this apparatus the beads are placed in tubes a the length and diameter of
which may vary according to the quantity and size of the beads to be distributed.
These tubes are each formed with a longitudinal slot a¹ (Fig. 4) that is made
sufficiently narrow to prevent the escape of the beads should their thread f break.
Within each tube a the beads rest upon the upper surface of a small cylinder a
through which passes the same thread f as traverses the beads.
Each tube a is opened at the upper part to the full extent, while at the lower
part it is only partially opened so as to prevent the cylinder a² escaping when the
said cylinder reaches the limit of its downward stroke. The lower part of each tube
should be situated above the guide-bars B' so that the threads may be fed to them
in a direct and easy manner.
At the lower portion of each cylinder a³ there is provided a hook a³ capable of
readily sliding within the longitudinal slot or groove a¹ in the corresponding tube a
and connected by a spiral spring a to a cross bar b arranged to move upwardly
along the tubes a under the action of counterweights and 6. The cross bar bis
provided with pins or projections arranged to slide within grooves & formed in two
parallel bars, the ends of which are connected by two parallel cross pieces 6*
and the upper of which carries, at its ends, pulleys 67 and 68 over which pass
the threads or cords 6 and 60 from which the counterweights 61 and 6 are
suspended. To the lower cross piece 66 all the tubes a are connected by means of
studs a adapted to retain the tube in place but capable of turning in small metal
plates a, the arrangement being such as to allow the tubes a to oscillate on the
studs a while preventing them from turning about their own axes, as this would
interfere with the work.
At their upper part, the tubes a are connected with a movable bar c by studs a',
preferably of metal, that enter openings a³ provided for that purpose in the said
¡movable bar.
The frame formed by the grooved bars and cross piece: 65 and 66 is connected
with the floor or secured to the standards of the framework of the loom.
The bars which I propose to employ for guiding the threads of the fabric and
⚫distributing the beads are preferably three in number as shown in the accompanying

page_text: drawings, in which they are designated by the letters c, d and e, though of course
this number may vary. These bars are arranged one behind another and extend.
horizontally across the loom.
The front bar c is provided at its lower part with apertures a serving to form
the connection with the tubes a as hereinbefore mentioned. Above the apertures a³
and at right angles to the bar c, are attached to the latter rods, pins, or studs.
(hereinafter called studs) c³ and c³ adapted to guide the warp-threads ƒ which press
laterally upon the pins c¹ and c³, which are fixed a little distance above slots or
slides (hereinafter called slots) adapted to receive a rod intended to retain the
guiding and distributing bars c, d, and e in the proper position in the loom.
Two series of slots, slides or ways c' and c are provided in the bar a above or
opposite to the studs c and respectively and at a distance from these studs
varying according to the size of the beads employed. The adjustment of this
distance is provided for in the following manner :-
The bar c is made in two parts e* and * (Fig. 6) screwed one to the other and
relatively adjustable in a vertical direction. One of these parts o* is formed opposite
to each of the studs c¹ and c³ with a vertical slot or slide-way c' in which the
studs and c² are adapted to move and which are secured at right angles to
the other part of the compound bar e which is arranged behind the first
mentioned part c*. If it is required to increase the distance between the slide-ways.
and studs the part ce is lowered, and if the distance is to be reduced the part c
is raised.
The slots and c³ serve the purpose of enabling small flexible pins d' and e¹
fixed to the bars d and e respectively to emerge at proper times through the bar c..
When the loom is at rest these flexible pins are concealed behind the bar c and
between the slots c and c³.
The bar d is provided alternately, and on the same level as the slots of and c
of the bar c, with flexible pins d' and with slide-ways or slots d' (hereinafter called
slots) that are longer than those of the bar c. The bar e is fitted with flexible
pins e¹ only.
In the initial position of the loom (Fig. 10) the pius d' of the bar d should be so.
situated as to be ready to fall into the corresponding slots c of the bar c and the
pins el of the bare should be situated within the slots d' of the bar d in readiness
to fall into the slots of the bar c. The arrangement of the slots d' of the bar d
enables this bar to operate without being interfered with by the bar e, that is to
say, by the flexible pins el on this bar. Each of the three bars c, d, and e is retained.
by means of brackets, and operates under the action of Jacquard apparatus such as
is usually applied to tulle-looms.
When the bars d and e carrying the flexible pins d¹ & e¹ are moved from left to
right and vice versa under the action of the Jacquard apparatus, the said flexible
pins d' and e¹ are thereby caused to move at the proper times into the slots c, c,.
and d of the bars c and d (Figs. 11, 12, 13 and 14) and to emerge through, or
project beyond, the bar c in such a manner that the warp-threads sliding against
the studs and and past the corresponding slots of the bars c and d are shifted
by the action of the flexible pins, so as to leave the studs c¹ and c²; the beads are
thus allowed to pass upwards beyond the studs cand c. The arrangements herein-
after described, enable these pins to enter the proper slots, either jointly or
separately, according to the kind of pattern it is desired to produce.
The bars c, d, and e are caused by the Jacquard apparatus to operate in the
following manner :-
The said bars being arranged one behind the other in the position shown in
Fig. 10, the bar d is caused to move to the right in such a manner, that the pins d
enter the slots c¹ in the bar c and come into contact with the threads f, the parts
then being in the positions shown in Fig. 11. The movement of the bar d is now
continued in the same direction, and the bar c is at the same time caused to.
move a suitable distance from right to left, the result being that the threads f
stretched upon the studs c' leave these studs and become held by the pins d' only,

page_text: the parts assuming the positions shown in Fig. 12. During these movements the
threads that at the commencement of them were stretched upon the studs c³ remain
stretched upon these studs.
The operation to be performed for removing from the studs c³ the threads which
rest thereon and for stretching them on the pins e¹ of the bar e is the same, except
that in this case the bar e moves to the right while the bars c and d move from
right to left. Figs. 13 and 14 show positions of the parts relative to the pins e
corresponding to those shown in Figs. 11 and 12 respectively relative to the
pins d¹.
It will thus be seen that owing to the arrangement of the bars, the threads can
be operated in any manner suited to the particular design to be produced.
The distribution of the beads is effected as follows:-
On each side of the loom there are provided similar arrangements of mechanism.
It will therefore be sufficient to describe only one of these arrangements of
mechanism.
This mechanism comprises a distributing-wire 9 that passes at each side of the
loom over a pulley h¹ secured to the end of a rod h attached to a lever A fixed
upon a shaft o. The wire 9 is carried outside of the loom by a pulley h* secured to
the end of an arm h³ carried by a laterally adjustable support k, and is stretched
by weights 9. Upon the shaft o is fixed a lever i that is connected at i¹ to the
corresponding lever i at the opposite side of the loom by a connecting rod. One
of the levers is operated direct by the Jacquard apparatus, with which it is
connected by a rod ³. The laterally adjustable support k is secured upon a
support that may be in the form of an angle plate, the adjustment being effected
by the aid of a pin and slot connection. k, k, and the support ³ is secured in a
vertically-adjustable manner to the cross-piece by means of a pin and slot
connection. To the support k is attached a metal plate or bar m supporting
a bent arm or knee m' which is secured to the said plate or bar by pin and slot
connections m³, m³ so as to permit of its being adjusted vertically. The extent of
motion of the rod carrying the pulley ' over which the distributing-wire 9 passes
is limited by the knee m³. The metal plate or bar m is provided with a horizontal
arm supporting an angle bar n capable of oscillating about a pin or journal n³ and
provided with a groove n', in which is adapted to slide a link or joint-piece n'
connected by rod no, to the corresponding angle bar n, which is situate at the
opposite side of the loom and receives motion from the Jacquard apparatus direct.
The operation of this distributing-apparatus is as follows:-
The tubes a are assumed to be filled with beads, the distributing-bars c, d, and e
adjusted, the loom in motion, and the parts in the position they occupy after
the insertion of the last series of beads into the fabric and after the bobbin-
carriages C and C¹ have passed across the warp-threads f in order to close the
row of meshes.
At this moment the two bars H and H¹ (Figs. 2 and 3) raise the tulle through
the height of one mesh, and then they stop.
At this moment also the Jacquard apparatus q causes the rod n* to move to the
right. The angle-bars n are thus caused to drive the shafts o towards the front of
the loom, carrying along with them the levers h³ and the rods h attached to these
levers. This motion of the rods & causes the distributing-wire g to take up its
position at a distance of about one centimetre in front of the threads f still resting
however on the studs cand c². The flexible pins d' fall into the slots c', meet the
warp-threads as hereinbefore explained, and pursue their course, while the bar c
recedes to the left and the threads become disengaged from the studs c¹ (Fig. 12).
Each of the top beads a, being no longer held down by the stud c, is carried
upward by the feeding-device a, a, a, b, is caused to pass over the stud c'. The
bar c now returns to the right and the studs c¹ take up their positions between the
first and second beads. The positions of the various parts at successive times
during this operation are shown in Figs. 5, 54, 5B, 5°, and 5º.
In the meantime, the Jacquard apparatus through the medium of the rod n',

page_text: exerts its action upon one of the angle-bars n which transmits its motion by means
of the rod n' to the corresponding angle-bar n at the other side of the loom. As
the rod n moves to the left the angle-bars n are kept in contact with the ends of
the shafts o by the action of helical springs o' wound upon the said shafts. The
levers h³, together with the rods h and the distributing-wire g which they support
are thus moved towards the back of the loom passing in the direction of the arrow
along the line vw (Fig. 2). The wire g thus takes up its position, in consequence
of the pressure it exercises, underneath the top beads which are separated from
the next succeeding ones by the studs c¹. As soon as the wire g has caught the
beads, the Jacquard apparatus operates, through the rod, one of the levers i
which transmits its motion to the second lever i on the opposite side of the loom,
through the rod. The shafts o are thus turned, and the levers, which are
keyed upon them, oscillate, leave their supports m', and take up the vertical
position indicated at 4 in Fig. 4. At this point stops provided at each end of the
front point-bar H but not shown in the drawings, prevent the levers /³ from falling
upon the knees m¹ before the front point-bar His disengaged. The distributing-
thread g thus raised vertically slides along the warp-threads passing along the
line w, y (Fig. 2) and assuming the position shown at g' in Fig. 4, and carries
along with it the top beads up to the portion of the fabric so far completed.
At this moment the bobbin-carriages execute their movement of rotation around
the warp-threads, and form an interlacing twist below the beads, and thus prevent
the latter from falling back. The distributing-wire g can thus now be removed
from the beads without inconvenience. As soon as the beads are caught and
fastened in the fabric, the Jacquard apparatus through the angle-bars n, pushes the
shafts o towards the front of the loom, moving with them the levers ³ and the
distributing-wire g, which passes along the line y z of Fig. 2 in such a manner as
not to interfere with the other parts of the loom.
Finally, the shafts o are partly turned by the Jacquard apparatus by means of
the levers i. The levers are thus lowered carrying with them the wire g which
moves along the line of Fig. 2 and resumes its position on the studs c', in readiness
to raise a fresh series of beads. The operation of the loom consists of repetitions of
the movements such as those just described.
The apparatus for distributing and projecting shown in Figs. 15 to 23 is simpler
than that before described, and it is the one I prefer to employ in practice.
This apparatus consists of a series of bars operated by the Jacquard apparatus
and adapted to work in grooves in a frame, these bars being each furnished with
special parts such that their combined operation shall effect in succession the
separation of the top bead of each row of beads strung on one of the threads, and
the projection of all or of only a certain number of the said top beads into a
position above the path of the weft-thread.
As shown in Figs. 15, 16, and 17 the several bars are arranged horizontally, are
arranged one over another in a vertical frame situated approximately in the middle
of the loom, and the uprights 1 and 2 of which are provided with perpendicularly
projecting slides 3 on which the distributing-bars rest freely. These bars are thus
capable of sliding in the direction of their length under the action of the Jacquard
apparatus. Guides 4, screwed to the uprights 1 and 2 of the frame, serve to prevent
the bars from moving in any other direction.
The top bar 5, designated the thread-guiding bar, has affixed to it at regular
intervals, corresponding to the distance between the warp-threads or groups of
warp-threads, small horizontal plates 6 (Fig. 18), each formed with a notch 7
serving to guide the thread and furnished with a rod 8 provided with a horizontal
limb the purpose of which will be hereinafter described.
The next bar 9, designated the bead-separating bar, is provided at the same
intervals as the bar 5, with horizontal plates having portions forming pins 10
(Fig. 19) around each of which there is coiled a helical spring 11 constantly
tending to cause a small plate 12 formed with a notch 13 to turn in the direction
indicated by the arrows 30 in Fig. 15. At a determined moment, a bead 23 strung
B

page_text: on the thread that moves in the notch in the plate 12 becomes supported on the
fork formed in plate 12 by the notch 13. At the same instant, a catch which has
up till now, kept the plate 12 in an approximately horizontal position, becomes
disengaged from it so as to allow the spring 11 to cause the plate 12 to rotate
sharply about its pin 10 in the direction of the arrows 30, so that the bead supported
on the plate 12 is jerked smartly upwards and, sliding along its warp-thread, passes
into a position in which it will be caught by the weft-thread next twisted thercon.
The bead is retained in this position by being jammed between the thread on which
it is strung (hereinafter called the bead-thread) and the adjacent warp-thread,
until the passage of the bobbin-carriage from comb to comb has caused it to be
fastened in between two consecutive weft-threads.
The next and lower bar 14, designated the pressing bar, is provided, at the same
intervals as those mentioned with regard to the bars 5 and 9 with set-screws 15
intended to keep in place and to regulate the position of slotted stops or
pressing-pieces 16, which are intended to regulate the extent of inclination of the
corresponding spring-plates 12, for the purpose of ensuring that the distance
between the plates 6 and the corresponding spring-plate 12 shall be equal to the
size of the beads used. Below the bar 14, are a series of similar bars 17, designated
retaining-bars, which vary in number according to the beaded design it is desired
to produce. Each of the bars 17 is provided, at the same intervals as those
mentioned with regard to the bars 5, 9, and 14, with rods 17* having two horizontal
limbs 18 and 19 (Fig. 21); of these limbs, the lower 18 constitutes the hereinbefore
mentioned catch for the plate 12 and the upper 19 works in combination with the
horizontal limb of the corresponding rod 8 situated at the same level. The function
of these rods 7 and 8 is to confine between their limbs and thus to keep close
together the bead-thread 25 and the adjacent warp-thread 26 of the same group
when these threads are performing an identical operation, notwithstanding the
interposition of a portion of the bead between these two threads, particularly at
the time when the bead is awaiting its turn to be projected upwards. When,
however, it be desired that the bobbin-carriage shall pass between these two threads,
the Jacquard apparatus will be caused to operate the two bars 5 and 17 in such a
manner that their corresponding rods 8 and 17° shall be moved away from each
other. Another function of these rods is to prevent the passage of. a bead when it
should not enter into the fabric, for instance if a fault in the thread should carry the
bead along without its having been projected in the manuer hereinbefore described.
Finally, the lowest bar 20 (Figs. 22 and 224) which is the guide-bar for the
thread next adjacent to the bead-thread in each group of warp-threads carries for
each of these groups a plate 21 having an eyelet-hole through which the said
adjacent thread passes. By means of the bar 20 the bead-thread and its adjacent
thread may be moved nearer to or away from each other by the Jacquard apparatus,
and the lower portions of these threads thereby caused to be parallel to or not
parallel to each other.
The beads strung on the bead-threads are kept in place by a clip 22, Fig. 23, in
such a manner as to follow the upward movement of the thread that carries them,
unless the resistance to their upward movement be greater than the friction of the
clip on the bead-thread.
In order to explain the operation of this apparatus for separating and distributing
the beads, reference is here made to Figs. 15, 154, 15, 15, 15 and 15% of the
drawings, which illustrate some of the various relative positions in the working of
the bars.
The bars are assumed to be in the relative positions shown in Fig. 15; that is to
say, each of the bead-threads 24 is engaged in the notch of its spring-plate 12, and
the top bead 23 of the row of beads on one of the threads 24 is bearing against the.
lower side of the said spring-plate.
In this position, the bead-thread 24 moves in the direction of the arrow 25
without carrying the beads along with it; the adjacent thread 26 is moved by
means of the bar 20, away from or nearer to the bead-thread 24 according to the

page_text: requirements of the netting operation. The horizontal limb of the rod 8 of the
bar 5 bears slightly against the bead-thread 24 in readiness to hold back any bead
that might have a tendency to ascend without having been projected intentionally,
but without hindering the action of the said thread in any way whatever.
Then, in order to separate the top bead 23, the Jacquard apparatus causes the
bar 5 to move from left to right. The said bar pushes to the right the bead-
thread 24 which is engaged in the notch 7 of the plate 6, and causes this thread to
move out of the notch in the spring-plate 12. The row of beads, being no longer
kept back, will ascend with its thread 24 until the top bead 23 comes into contact
with the lower side of the plate 6 (Fig. 154).
At this moment the bar 5 recedes from right to left, and the thread 24 follows
this movement and enters anew into the notch 13 in the spring-plate 12. The top
bead 23 is now resting against the lower surface of the fork of the plate 12 (Fig. 158).
In order that this operation shall take place regularly, it is obvious that the
distance between the plates 6 and 12 should be equal to the thickness of the beads
employed. It is for this reason that I have provided the slotted regulating
pieces 16 which are carried by the bar 14 and can be raised and lowered in
accordance with the diameter of the beads employed.
The Jacquard apparatus now causes the bar 17 that corresponds to the series of
threads to which the group in question belongs to move from right to left in such
a manner that the limb 18 of its rod 17* shall move on to the top of the free end,
which is slightly bent downwards, of the spring-plate 12. The bar 20 now or
somewhat previously also moves towards the left. The two threads 24 and 26 are
thus made to approach each other (Fig. 15") and the top bead still further separated
or moved away from the succeeding beads of the same thread.
The bar 14 now recedes from right to left (Fig. 15º) in such a manner as to
leave the spring-plate 12 solely under the influence of the lower horizontal limb 18
of the rod 17* of the bar 17. The latter bar is immediately caused by the action
of the Jacquard apparatus to recede from left to right and the limb 18 to leave the
inclined surface of the spring-plate 12, the spring 11 being thus allowed to act
and cause the plate 12 to turn sharply in the direction of the arrow o* (Fig. 15º).
The bead is thus jerked upward (in the direction of the arrow 26) and is retained
above the path of the weft by being jainmed between the two threads 24 and 26.
As herein before stated, there are a series of bars 17 (Figs. 15 and 16), the
number of which depends on the design of the beading. This is necessary because
if, for instance, it is desired to project into the fabric, of the beads that have been
separated, only those on every third bead-thread, it is requisite that the rods 17*
of the first and second threads shall not leave the corresponding spring-plates 12
and if all the rods 17* were mounted on the same bar 17, the receding movement
of this single bar would cause the upward projection of all the beads resting against
the forks of the spring-plates 12.
To return the parts into their initial positions (Fig. 15), the Jacquard apparatus
first causes the bar 5 to advance from left to right. The plate 6 pushes the spring-
plate 12 down in the proper direction, compressing the spring 11. The bar 14
then also moves from left to right, and the horizontal limb of its piece 16 moves
above the plate 12 and arrests the latter in an approximately horizontal position.
Simultaneously therewith, the bar 17 recedes, the bar 20 also recedes from left to
right. When these movements have taken place the whole of the parts have
re-assumed the positions shown in Fig. 15.
A fresh distribution of beads can now commence.
It is obvious that my two arrangements of distributing apparatus may also be
applied to embroidery-looms, without essentially altering their construction or
operation the beads in this case being, if desired, strung on the embroidery-threads.
The second arrangement particularly has been worked out with view to such
application.
In conclusion, I may state that in beading-work, the "gauge" of the loom, that
is to say, the distance between the sets of bobbin-carriages, and the distance between

page_text: the combs, should be taken into consideration. The distance between the sets of
carriages varies with the size of the meshes of the tulle. When the distance
between the sets of combs is so small that there is very little space for the passage
of the beads advantage must be taken of the moment at which the carriages are not
occupying the gap between the combs, and the Jacquard cards must be designed
accordingly.
Fig. 24 represents a device which I apply to the bars of the loom and at all
points where desirable, especially to the guide-bars of the warp-threads, the said
device having for its object to protect the thread by relieving it of friction, shock,
and tensile strains which would inevitably be produced when the beads strung on
it struck against the edges and projections of the bars and other parts which the
beads meet in their course. This device consists of a small metal tube 27 having a
flaring trumpet-shaped mouth or entry orifice, and an internal diameter large
enough to allow of the passage therethrough of the beads with the threads on
which they are strung. These tubes are arranged in position in accordance with
the directions that threads should have at that place. The tubes 27 are fixed by
soldering or any other suitable means to the bars and at all places where the
threads are liable to rub against a sharp edge, and also where the beads would
otherwise be hindered in their onward travel. With this arrangement there is
little danger of the breakage of the threads, as the beads are thus enabled to
travel along freely.
The beads instead of being placed upon the warp threads may be arranged on
other threads as for example on the embroidery-threads when these are used, so
that the method of beading tulle herein described is applicable not only to plain
tulle but also to embroidered tulle. It is in all cases important to employ for
rolling up the tulle a pair of rollers, one of which is provided with points or teeth
while the other is smooth.
My invention is applicable to beading not only plain and embroidered tulle, but
also other fabrics as for example ordinary or Valencienne lace.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
=
1. The manufacture of beaded tulle by inserting into the tulle, whilst the same
is being woven, beads previously strung upon the warp-threads, or some of them,
the said beads being fastened in place on the warp-threads by two consecutive
weft threads engaged with the warp-threads by the weaving operation as set
forth.
2. For carrying out the method of manufacture specified in Claim 1, the
application to a tulle-loom of apparatus for inserting the beads into the fabric,
comprising a conveying or distributing-wire g which extends across the loom and
is situate against, or close to, the warp-threads below the top bead of each row of
beads strung on a warp-thread and means under the control of a Jacquard
apparatus for operating the said conveying or distributing thread in such a way
that it will be caused to make (a) an upward movement towards the finished fabric,
thereby carrying the beads up above the place where the weft is to be twisted
around the warp; (b) a rearward movement which carries it away from the warp-
threads after the weft has been twisted around the latter; (c) a downward movement
which brings it back to the level of its original position; and (d) a forward move-
ment which brings it nearer to the warp and places it under the next series of beads
to be inserted in the fabric.
3. In a tulle-loom provided with apparatus for inserting beads into the fabric,
the use for feeding the beads, of tubes a containing beads strung on the warp-
threads, and furnished on the side farthest from the path of the weft with a
spring-device tending to impel the beads towards the said path substantially as
herein described.
4. In a tulle-loom provided with apparatus for inserting beads into the fabric

page_text: and for feeding the said beads, a distributing-device consisting of a series of bars.
actuated by means of Jacquard apparatus and furnished at suitable parts with studs
and slots, such as those in Jacquard cards, having relative positions and a combined
action such that at the proper time, the said studs will arrest certain beads or allow
the same to pass to be caught by the conveying or distributing wire g substantially
as herein described.
5. For carrying out the method of manufacture specified in Claim 1, the
combination with a tulle-loom, of bead feeding and distributing apparatus con-
structed arranged and operating substantially as hereinbefore described with
reference to and shown in Figs. 2 to 14 inclusive of the accompanying drawings.
6. For carrying out the method of manufacture specified in Claim 1, the
combination with a tulle-loom of mechanism for distributing the beads in the
fabric, consisting of a series of horizontal bars, placed side by side capable of
moving in a longitudinal direction under the action of Jacquard apparatus, and
provided respectively with suitably arranged parts the combined operation of
which serves to effect the separation of the top bead of each row of beads strung
on one of the threads of each group, and to project it, if necessary, into the fabric,
according to the requirements of the design of the beading, the whole substantially
as hereinbefore described with reference to Figs. 15 to 23 inclusive of the
accompanying drawings.
7. In a tulle loom provided with bead distributing apparatus, the arrangement
at suitable parts of the loom or apparatus of small guide-tubes 27 each having a
flaring or trumpet-shaped mouth or entry-orifice, and having its axis situated in
the direction of the thread passing through it, the internal diameter of the said
tube being sufficiently large to allow of the passage of the beads strung on the
thread, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
8. The hereinabove described improved manufacture of beaded tulle or like
fabric in which the beads are incorporated in the fabric itself during the weaving
thereof instead of being attached thereto by separate fastening threads as
heretofore.
Dated this 8th day of May 1894.
For the Applicant,
W. LLOYD WISE,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Chartered Patent Agent.