Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Cloths.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Oct., 1889-Accepted, 30th Nov., 1889
COME DELE DI PULTRATI
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Cloths.
GEORGE MORT, Rose Bank, Patricroft, near Manchester in the County of Lancashire
Cotton Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement:—
دو
My invention relates to that kind of cloth known as "Mitchelline for the
manufacture of which a patent, No. 1964, A.D. 1868, was granted to David
Mitchell.
The object of my invention is to make a bold, fast-bound figure upon a twill or 'rep:
cloth without any wadding pick.
In carrying out my improvements, I use a loom of the ordinary construction, and
in weaving the fabric I employ two shuttles, one for fine weft and the other for
coarse weft.
I also make use of two yarn beams, the yarn from one beam being to form the
raised part of the figure, the said yarn being known in the textile trade as face yarn,
and works plain on two healds, the yarn from the other beam forms the ground
work, and also the outline of the figure of the cloth. In weaving the fabric, I use a
Jacquard machine for the purpose of forming the figure, and I also employ four
separate Cumber Boards, with which I make the twill or rep portion of the cloth.
The practical working of my invention will be understood by the following
description :-
-
Figure I is a four-shaft twill, one heald up and three healds down.
First pick coarse weft-Jacquard and first heald up.
Second pick-coarse weft-Jacquard and second heald up.
Third pick-fine weft-second.heald and first board up.
Fourth pick-fine weft-first heald and second board up.
Fifth pick coarse weft-Jacquard and first heald up.
Sixth pick-coarse weft-Jacquard and second heald up.
Seventh pick-fine weft-second heald and third board up.
Eighth pick-fine weft-first heald and fourth board up.'
The cloth of Figure I is completed by repeating the above round of 8 picks.
Figure 2. is a four-shaft twill, two boards up and two boards down, one board
being changed every fine pick.
First pick coarse weft-Jacquard and first heald up.
Second pick coarse weft-Jacquard and second heald up.
Third pick-fine weft-second heald and first and fourth boards up.
Fourth pick-fine weft-first heald and first and second boards up.
Fifth pick-coarse weft-Jacquard and first heald up.
Sixth pick coarse weft-Jacquard and second heald up.
Seventh pick-fine weft-second heald and second and fourth boards up.
Eighth pick-fine weft-first heald and third and fourth boards up.
The cloth of Figure 2. is completed by repeating the above round of 8 picks.
Figure 3. is a rep cloth made with four cumber boards, three boards rising one fine
pick and one board rising the other fine pick.
First pick-coa
-coarse weft-Jacquard and first heald up.
Second pick-coarse weft-Jacquard and second heald up.
Third pick-fine weft-second heald and first, second & third boards up.

page_text: Fourth pick-fine weft-first heald and fourth board up.
Fifth pick coarse weft-Jacquard and first heald up.
Sixth pick-coarse weft-Jacquard and second heald up.
Seventh pick-fine weft-second heald and first, second & third boards up.
Eighth pick-fine weft-first heald and fourth board up.
The cloth of Figure 3. is completed by repeating the above round of 8 picks.
I am aware of the Specification to Letters Patent granted to Thomas Taylor and
Jacob Warburton numbered 2196 and dated May 19th 1881, and I wish it to be
clearly understood that I do not intend to draw in the ends as therein described-
namely two separate ends of stitching yarn to one end of face yarn-nor in any
manner that can be said to be a copy or a colourable imitation thereof.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
1. The making of cloths in which the ground has a twill or rep face in com-
bination with a raised figure.
2. The use of four separate cumber boards in the weaving of the cloths as herein-
before described.
3. The making of a rep or twill ground in the cloths by the varying of the rising
of the four cumber boards as hereinbefore described.
Dated this 29th day of October 1889.
H. & R. T. LORD,
Agents for Applicant.