Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 30th June, 1888
Complete Specification Left, 18th July, 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 24th Aug., 1888
We THOMAS HOLT and WILLIAM HOLT both of Walshaw near Bury in the
County of Lancaster Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature of this invention to
be as follows:-
1
Our invention relates to that kind of cloth known as "Mitcholine " for the manu-
facture of which a Patent No. 1964 A.D. 1868 was granted to David Mitchell-the
object of our improvements is to obtain a bold figure on a plain ground, the figure to be
satin or twill as desired.
We employ a loom of the ordinary construction and we make use of two yarn
beams;
the yarn from one beam is to form the raised part of the figure and is termied
it face yarn," it is worked by four healds, the yarn from the other beam forms the
ground and the outline of the figure, and is termed "stitching yarn," it is worked by
a Jacquard or other machine.
We place an equal number of ends on each of the two beams-We make use of
coarse weft and fine weft from two shuttles, and we put in two picks of coarse
weft, and then two picks of fine weft alternately.
An important feature of our improvements consists in the "shedding" or manner
in which the face yarn is raised, when the coarse picks are being put in, where an equal
number of ends are used in the face yarn and in the stitching yarn.
To carry out our improvements we use four healds to work the face yarn and we
only raise one of the four healds at a time when the coarse picks are being woven,
that is, we only raise one quarter of the face yarn to each coarse pick, the face healds
can be so manipulated in the working (but only one raised for each coarse pick) that
the cloth produced is a satin or a twill on the face of the raised figure.
In conjunction with the above mode of working the face yarn when the coarse picks
are being woven we can put in the fine picks according to the various modes in which
the face yarn can be worked by raising one, two, three or all of the face healds to each
fine pick and by the before mentioned methods of weaving the back of the cloth can

page_text: be made a satin, twill or rib. Also on the same basis of using an equal number of
ends of face yarn and stitching yarn in combination with two picks of course weft and
two picks of fine weft alternately when putting in the coarse picks we raise two of the
four healds so as to have one face end up and one face end down and in conjunction
therewith we can put in the fine picks by raising one, two, three, or all the face
houlds,
By these methods of shedding the face yarn we produce a fine satin figure on the
face, and the back of the cloth can be made a satin twill or rib.
We wish it to be understood that the principal feature of our invention consists in
the shedding or the manner in which the face yarn is raised where the same number
of ends are used in the face and stitching yarn in combination with two picks of course
welt and two picks of fine weft.
Our invention applies to white and colored goods.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Quilts and other
Figured Fabrics.
We THOMAS HOLT and WILLIAM HOLT both of Walshaw near Bury in the County
of Lancaster Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to that kind of cloth or figured fabric known as "Mitcheline
for the manufacture of which a Patent No. 1964 A.D. 1868 was granted to David
Mitchell.
The object of our improvements is to obtain a bold figure on a plain ground the
said figure to be a satin or a twill as desired.
The nature of our said invention and the manner in which the same is to be per-
formed or carried into practical effect will be readily understood on reference to the
sheet of weaver's diagrams hereunto annexed and the following explanation
thereof.
We employ a loom of the ordinary construction and we make use of two yarn
beams; the yarn from one beam, is to form the raised part of the figure and is termed
"face yarn" it is worked by four healds; the yarn from the other beam forms the
ground and the outline figure, and is termed the "stitching yarn," it is worked by a
Jacquard" or other pattern machine.
We place an equal number of ends on each of the two yarn beams; and we make
use of coarse weft and fine weft putting in two picks of coarse weft and then two picks
of fine weft alternately.
An important feature of our invention consists in the "shedding" or the manner
or order of succession in which the "face yarn" is raised when the picks of coarse
weft are being put in, where an equal number of ends are used in the "face-yarn” and
in the "stitching yarn.”
In carrying out our improvements we use four healds to work the "face yarn" and
if we desire to make a satin face on the raised figure we proceed according to
diagram (A), and only raise one of the four bealds at a time when the coarse picks
are being woven, that is we only raise one quarter of the "face-yarn" to each pick of
coarse weft and in the order shown on this diagram.
But if we wish to make a twilled face on the raised figure we still raise only one
heald for each coarse pick but we manipulate them in the order shown at Diagram (B)
whereby we obtain a twill instead of a satin face on the figure.
In conjunction with the above mode of working the "face-yarn," when the coarse
picks are being woven, we can put in the fine picks according to the various modes in
which the "face-yarn can be worked, by raising one two three or all of the face-
healds to each fine pick, as will be well understood by any practical weaver: and by
the before mentioned methods of weaving, the back of the cloth or fabric can be made
a satin, a twill or a rib.

page_text: i.
Also, on the same basis of using an equal number of ends of face-yarn" and
"stitching-yarn" in combination with two picks of coarse woft, and two picks of fine
weft alternately, when putting in the picks of coarse weft we can raise two of the four
heals, so as to have one face end up and one face end down, as shown at Diagram (('),
and in conjunction therewith we can put in the fine picks by raising one, two, three,
or all of the face healds.
"
By these methods of "shedding" the " "face-yarn we produce a fine satin figure
on the face of the fabric, and the back of the cloth can be made a satin, a twill
or a rib,
"
in
We wish it to be understood that the principal novel feature of our invention con-
sists in the "shedding" or the manner in which the "face-yarn" is raised, where the
same number of ends is used in the "fuce-yarn" and the "stitching yarn
combination with two picks of coarse weft, and two picks of fine weft put in
alternately.
Our invention applies to both white and colored goods.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is
"
16
"
First. In the manufacture of figured quilts or other figured fabrics (wherein an equal
numbor of ends are used in the "face-yarn and the stitching-yarn" in combina-
tion with two picks of coarse weft and two picks of fine weft) the "shedding
raising of the face-yarn in the manner hereinbefore particularly described and
illustrated by the diagrams annexed.
"
or
Secondly. We claim the improved figured quilts or fabrics woven in the manner
hereinbefore described.
11
"