Improvements in the Method of and Apparatus for Manufacturing Imitation Sealskin, Fur, Velvet, Chinchilla, and other like Goods.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Oct., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 13th July, 1889-Accepted, 17th Aug., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Method of and Apparatus for Manufacturing
Imitation Sealskin, Fur, Velvet, Chinchilla, and other like Goods.
I, HENRY LISTER, of Ashbrow Mills, Huddersfield, Yorkshire, Manufacturer.
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
a
The object of my invention is to produce a close imitation of velvet, fur, or the
skins of seals, chinchillas, and other animals, also to produce a new effect on woollen,
worsted, or other textile fabrics. To carry out my invention 1 employ any ordinary
construction of loom, and on the top of the warp near the breast beam I employ
short endless travelling apron, the front of which is near that part of the warp where
the reed beats up. On the top of this endless apron I place a roll of fibre, composed
of a thin film, the front edge of which fibre is so placed as to present the fringe
thereof a little distance past the last shoot of weft. A. rotary brush or wire card,
placed under or above the warp, or both, is also employed for the purpose of brushing
the projecting fringe of fibre down between the warp threads, after which a shoot of
weft is sent across the loom, the warp threads crossed and the reed beaten up so as
to make the fringe or tuft secure. The rotary motion of the brush is now reversed so
as to turn the opposite ends of the tuft of fibre back or up between the warp threads,
when another shoot of weft is sent across the loon to fasten the fibre in the warp.
The endless apron with the roll of fibre has an intermittent motion given to it, so
that each time it withdraws from the last shoot of weft, a tuft of fibre is held in the
warp by the weft, so as to allow the loose ends thereof to form the pile; but the tuft
may be separated from the bulk of the fibre by a knife or other means.
31
If the fur is to appear on both sides of the fabric, so as to be reversible, the ends
of fibre are not brushed back up between the warp, but are left loose on each side of
the fabric.
The film of fibre on the warp may be of any suitable width, so as to weave the fur
in stripes, either plain or colour, and the fibre may be so placed as to weave the fur in
diagonal stripes in the said fabric.
Dated thin 15th day o
Jako 1000
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Huddersfield, Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Method of and Apparatus for Manufacturing
Imitation Sealskin, Fur, Velvet, Chinchilla, and other like Goods.
I, HENRY LISTER, of Ashbrow Mills, Huddersfield, Yorkshire, Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what inanner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
.
The object of my invention is to produce a close imitation of velvet, far, or the
skins of seals, chinchillas, and other animals, also to produce a new effect on woollen,
worsted, travelling rugs, hearth rugs and carpets, or other textile fabrics.
To carry out my invention I employ any ordinary construction of loom, and on the
top of the warp near the breast beam I employ a short endless travelling apron, the
front of which is near that part of the warp where the reed beats up. On the top of
this endless apron I place a roll of fibre, the front edge of which fibre'is so placed as
to present the fringe thereof a little distance past the last shoot of weft. A-rotary
brush or wire card, placed under or above the warp, or both, is also employed for the
purpose of brushing the projecting fringe of fibre down between the warp threads,
Price 81 1

page_text: after which a shoot of weft is sent across the loom, the warp threads crossed and the
reed heaten up so as to make secure the fringe or tuft which has been brushed
through. The rotary motion of the brush is now reversed so as to turn the opposite
ends of the tuft of fibre back or up between the warp threads, when another shoot of
weft is sent across the loom to fasten the fibre in the warp.
In order that my invention may be more fully understood, I herein make reference
to the accompanying sheets of drawings illustrative thereof.
Fig. I is cross section of such parts of a loom as are necessary to shew the appli-
cation of my invention thereto, and Fig. 2 is a similar view shewing the parts in a
different position to that shewn in Fig. 1.
Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 are enlarged views of a piece of cloth having tufts of fibre
woven therein according to my invention, the cloth being shewn in section taken at
right angles to the weft.
Figs. 7 and 8 are details hereinafter referred to.
A represents the slay or going part of a loom, B the breast beam, C the healds.
D the crank shaft which by means of arm E gives a backward and forward movement
to the slay; F is the cloth beam upon which the woven fabric is wound, and G is
the tappet or bottom shaft of the loom, all of which said parts are arranged and
operated in the ordinary manner and form no part of my invention.
C
A short distance above the breast beam and supported thereon by the cross rail a
is a creeper sheet or travelling apron b, one end of which extends to near the position
taken up by the reed when the slay beats up. Upon this creeper sheet I place a roll
of fibre the loose forward end of which is drawn over the end of the said creeper
sheet so as to hang down therefrom. d and e are rotary brushes or rollers covered
with card clothing, which are supported in bearings in the upright sliding bar f
connected at its lower end to the oscillating lever g, which is pivoted at n and
carries a friction bowl thereon working upon the double tappet or cam j mounted
on the tappet shaft G.
When the loom commences to weave, and the slay is retiring or moving backward
from the breast beam, the cam i moves into the position shewn in Fig. 1 and operates
the lever which draws the sliding bar f into its lowest position, in doing which the
rotary brush d is brought down into contact with the projecting fringe of fibre, which
is brushed down between the warp threads and in front of the shoot of weft last
delivered so as to cover it. A shoot of weft is now sent across the loom, which is
beaten up by the next forward movement of the reed so as to secure the fringe of
fibre which has been brushed down through the warp threads. is a plate or comb
carried by spindles 7 passing loosely through the top or hand rail m of the slay, the
bottom of such plate resting upon the warp threads so that when the shed opens and
closes the plate rises and falls with the warp, therefore, when the slay is beating up
towards the breast beam, the front edge of such plate or comb is forced against the
overhanging fringe of fibre (which is being held by the weft) and severs it so as to
leave a sufficient length or tuft of fibre above the surface of the cloth to form the pile
or imitation skin, (see Figs. 2 and 4). A plan view of the plate or comb is shewn
at Fig. 7. Simultaneously with the severing of the tuft by the beating up of the
slay, the cam j places the lever g in the position shown in Fig. 2, whereby the vertical
sliding bar is elevated so as to place the upper brush d clear of the travelling apron,
but as the said brush occupies the position required by the reed as it approaches the
breast beam, I hinge the upper end of the sliding bar which carries the said brush d
so that it can be pushed out of the way by the hand rail m as it beats up, a strong
flat spring o being employed to force the hinged end of the sliding bar back again
into its original position as the slay retires.
So far the loose fringe of the fibre has been brushed down through and between
the warp threads, and a length of the fringe has been cut off the bulk as shewn in
enlarged view Fig. 4. As soon, therefore, as the upper brush d is removed upward,
and the fringe of fibre severed by the plate or comb k, the lower brush e is brought
into operation (which brush e is revolving in the reverse direction to the brush d)
such brush e forcing or brushing the left hand end of the fringe up through the warp

page_text: as shewn in Fig. 5, after which the shed closes and another shoot of weft is sent across
the loom to bind the fringe in the fabric, and this goes on continuously as the loom
proceeds. Rotary motion is given to the brushes d and e by driving bands p
passing over guide pulleys 9 and over a driven pulley r fixed on the crank
shaft D.
Instead of employing two revolving brushes such as d and e, one brush may be
made to do for both ends of the fringe, the said brush being raised and lowered in a
similar manner to that described with reference to two brushes, the rotary motion of
the brush being reversed each time it is moved into contact with the fringe or tuft of
fibre.
Instead of the plate or comb advancing with the slay for cutting a tuft off the
bulk of the fibre as already explained, the said plate k may be moved vertically so as
to doff a tuft off the bulk of fibre as shewn at Fig. 9. The endless apron with the
roll of fibre upon it has an intermittent motion given to it by means of a pawl s
taking into a ratchet wheel t fixed on one of the rollers carrying the endless apron,
such pawl being caused to take up one or more teeth in the wheel t, as required,
by means of the bell crank lever u operated by crank bowl w as shewn in drawing
Fig. 1.
Instead of cutting a tuft of fibre off the bulk as explained, the endless apron may
be made to reciprocate backwards and forwards to and from the reed so as to pull the
tuft off the bulk, which is being held by the last shoot of weft, and this is illustrated
in Fig. 8 where is the endless apron carrying the fibre c. The rollers carrying the
endless apron are supported by a plate carrying a pin z, such pin entering a slot in
the upper end of the lever y connected to another lever arm z operated by excentric z¹
from the tappet shaft; or the travelling apron may be reciprocated by the slay through
the medium of a lever z².
The mechanism above described is employed in the form shewn when the fur is to
appear on one side only of the fabric, but if the fur is to appear on both sides of the
fabric, so as to be reversible, the ends of the tufts of fibre are not brushed up between
the warp threads, but are left loose on each side of the fabric, as illustrated in
Fig. 6.
The-film of fibre on the endless apron may be of any suitable width, so that if
necessary the fur may be woven in stripes either plain or coloured, and the fibre
may be so placed on the endless apron as to weave the fur in diagonals or other
designs.
By introducing tufts of fibre into woven fabrics as herein described, I am
enabled to get a better imitation of natural fur than formerly, as by tearing tufts
of fibre off a sliver, the hairs forming such tufts are of unequal lengths, as is the case
with the natural fur.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
:-
The method of and apparatus for manufacturing imitation sealskin, fur, velvet,
chinchilla, and other like goods, in manner substantially as herein shewn and
described.
Dad thin 10th of T... 1000
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Halifax, Agents.