Improvements in and in connection with the Manufacture of Hats.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Apr., 1899-Accepted, 26th Aug., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and in connection with the Manufacture of Hats.
I, WELCOME PENNSON GAMMONS, Junior, of 108, West 61st Street, New York
City, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particu-
larly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:
-
My invention relates to a sewing machine, and also to a hat embracing a
peculiar connection between its folded edge and a reed cloth and sweat band,
which connection the machine is adapted to effect.
One of the objects of the invention is to provide a sewing machine adapted
to form stitches through a sweat band, a reed cloth and the folded edge of a
hat so as to connect the same, and other stitches over the edge of the sweat band
and through the reed cloth below, but not above, the reed or cord in the bight
thereof and over the folded edge of the hat; such latter stitches being designed
to snugly secure the reed or cord in the bight of the cloth and cause the said
bight to set out from the folded edge of the hat, whereby it is enabled to prevent
said folded edge and the connecting stitches from contacting with the hair
and forehead of the wearer and being deteriorated by perspiration, and is also
enabled to prevent the connecting stitches from chafing the forehead of the
wearer.
Another object is to provide a material guide embodying such a construction
that it will permit of the ends of the reed cloth being lapped and connected
together by stitches without the necessity of removing the materials, i.e. the
hat, sweat band and reed and reed cloth from the machine.
Another object is to provide a hat in which the sweat band and reed cloth
are connected together and to the folded edge of the hat in the advantageous
manner above noted.
Another object is to provide a hat in which one end of the reed cloth is lapped
over the other end of the cloth and the reed or cord therein, and said lapped
ends are connected by the thread stitches which connect the sweat band, reed
cloth and the folded edge of the hat.
With the foregoing ends in view, the invention will be fully understood from
the following description and claims when taken in conjunction with the annexed
drawings, in which:
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of my improved machine with the hat holder
omitted.
Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same with the hat holder and its support
in section.
Fig. 3 is an inverted plan view with parts partially broken away and the hat
holder omitted.
Fig. 4 is an enlarged, vertical section taken in the plane indicated by the
liner of Fig. 3.
Fig. 5 is a detail section taken in the plane indicated by the line y y of
Fig. 4.

page_text: Fig. 6 is a detail, perspective view of the improved loop retainer of the stitch
forming mechanism.
Fig. 7 is an enlarged, vertical section illustrating a portion of the vertically
movable frame and a portion of the mechanism through the medium of which it
is reciprocated.
Fig. 8 is a detail section taken in the plane indicated by the line ww of Fig. 7.
Fig. 9 is an enlarged, perspective view of the guide for the sweat band, the
reed, the reed cloth and the folded edge of a hat: the same being shown in
the positions they are caused to assume by the guide, and the needle being shown
in its lower position by dotted lines.
Fig. 10 is an inverted plan view of the guide.
Fig. 11 is a transverse section taken in the plane indicated by the line v v
of Fig. 9.
Fig. 12 is an enlarged, transverse section taken in the plane indicated by
the line uu of Fig. 9.
Fig. 13 is a detail, front elevation of the loop taker and a portion of the
mechanism through the medium of which it is actuated.
Fig. 14 is a side elevation of the same.
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a soft hat embracing my invention.
Fig. 2 is an enlarged, perspective view illustrating the manner in which the
thread is arranged to form the stitches.
Fig. 3 is an enlarged, transverse section taken through the sweat band, the
reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat.
Fig. 4 is a detail, horizontal section illustrating the manner in which the ends
of the reed cloth are lapped.
Referring by letter to said drawings and more particularly to Figures 1-14
thereof:
C
A designates the base of the machine, B the overhanging fixed arm, and C the
drive shaft which is journaled in the arm B, as shown. The said drive shaft
is provided with a disk D having a peripheral cam groove a which engages the
lug carried at the upper end of a lever E, as shown. The lower end of lever E
is extended through the base A and loosely connected to one end of a horizontal
lever which is provided with a slot for the adjustable connection of a pit-
man G.
This pitman is connected at its forward end to a lever H which carries
a spring pressed pawl I engaging with a ratchet wheel J fixed on the shaft d
of a pinion e (see Fig. 3). The said pinion e meshes with a gear wheelf on the
shaft g of a horizontally disposed feed wheel K which feed wheel is designed to be
moved a slight distance through the medium of the mechanism just described
to feed the materials forwardly while the vertically slidable frame (presently
described) is in its upper position and at the beginning of the outward stroke
of the needle, for a purpose presently pointed out.
L designates a clamping wheel, carried by a lever L' which is fulcrumed upon
the base and is designed to be moved by the cam lever M so as to carry the
wheel L away from the feed wheel K to permit of the interposition of materials
between the same. The clamping wheel L is normally pressed toward the feed
wheel or the materials between the two by reason of the spring lever
(see Fig. 3) which is fulcrumed at k and bears at one end against a stud 7
depending from the lever L and is engaged at its opposite end by a screw L.
From this it follows that through the medium of the screw L², the pressure
against the lever L' and consequently that of the wheel L against the wheel K
may be increased or diminished as desired.
Mounted in suitable ways in the face of the overhanging or fixed arm B is
a vertically slidable frame N. This frame is provided on its inner side with a
pin carrying an anti-friction roller designed to move in the cam groove m
of the wheel or disk P upon the forward end of the drive shaft C (see Figures 7
and 8), whereby it will be seen that at each rotation of said shaft the frame and
its appurtenances will be lowered and raised, such movement of the frame being

page_text: properly timed with respect to the movements of the other parts, as will be
presently pointed out.
Journaled in brackets on the frame N is a rock shaft upon one end of
which is fixed the swinging arm of a needle R.
q designates a beveled gear on the drive shaft C, which meshes with a pinion r
on a short shaft which extends through one wall of the arın B and carries a
disks at its outer end. To said disk is connected one end of a pitman & which is
connected at its forward end to a crank arm S fixed upon the end of the shaft p
opposite to that to which the arm Q is connected whereby it will be seen that
when the drive shaft is rotated, the needle R will be reciprocated. The crank
arm S is provided at its upper end with an approximately T-shaped head T in
which is formed a cam slot i designed to impart a vertical, reciprocatory movement
to a bar U for a purpose presently described. The said bar is connected at
its upper end with a reciprocatory guide bar by a bolt U, and on the said
bolt and arranged to travel in the cam slot of the head T is an anti-friction
roller Us.
In order to properly support the hat when the same is clamped between the
wheel L and the feed wheel K, a hanger W is provided, the same being con-
nected to the base A as better shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings. The said hanger
has a vertical slot and in said slot is arranged the vertically movable support A¹
which is provided with a threaded socket 1 for the reception of the adjusting
screw c which takes loosely through the lower end of the hanger and is
provided above and below said lower end with means adapted to hold it against
endwise movement, so as to enable it, when turned, to raise or lower the support A
for a purpose presently described. The said support A has suitable lugs cl
upon its upper side for the connection of the lever B, and the said lever, which
has the rotary platform C at its forward end to support the hat holder D¹, has
its rear and lower end arranged upon a spring E whereby it will be seen that,
when a hat is properly arranged in the holder 1 and the support A is properly
adjusted, the folded edge of the said hat will be yieldingly pressed upwardly
in the guide (presently described) and will therefore be moved and held by the
feed and clamping wheel in a proper position.
In the construction thus far described, the parts are so timed that one stitch
is formed when the vertically movable frame is depressed and two stitches when
said frame is raised.
1 (see Figures 13 and 14) designates a rock shaft, journaled in and movable
with the reciprocatory frame N. This shaft is provided with a loop taker 2
arranged to cooperate with the needle R in the formation of stitches, and is
also provided with a fixed collar which is connected by a pitman 4 with a
collar fixed on the bar whereby it will be seen that when said bar is
reciprocated the shaft 1 and the loop taker thereon will be rocked.
6 designates what I will, for the sake of convenience, term a loop retainer.
This loop retainer, as better shown in Figures 5 and 6, is fulcrumed at 7 on
the frame N so as to enable it to rock in a plane at right angles to the path of
the needle R and it is provided with the thread engaging hook 8 and also with a
slot 9, as illustrated. The said slot of the loop retainer receives a stud 10 carried
by an arm 11 fixedly connected to the face of the overhanging arm B, whereby
it will be seen that when the frame N is reciprocated or raised and lowered,
the loop retainer will be rocked on its fulcrum.
12 designates the body of my improved material guide which is preferably
This body 12
connected with the base A through the medium of brackets BB.
is provided in its under side with a groove 14 which comprises a rear or inner
portion 15 designed to receive and guide the folded edge of a hat, and a
comparatively deep front or outer portion 16 which is designed to receive and
guide a reed cloth and the reed therein. The outer wall 17 of said groove 14
is broken away at about the proportional distance illustrated from the needle

page_text: opening 18 of the guide, and the forward end of the inner wall of the groove
portion 16 is beveled as indicated by 19, for a purpose presently described.
20 designates the lever of the guide which is provided in its under side with
a way or groove 21 designed to receive and guide a sweat band. This lever 20
is fulcrumed on the guide body and backed by a spring 22 and is enabled, in
virtue of the wall 17 of the groove 14 in the guide body being broken away,
to press the sweat band against the reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat
so as to securely hold the same in proper position with respect to each other
while they are being stitched together. The lever 20 is further advantageous
inasmuch as by pressing its rear end toward the guide body, its forward portion,
in which the groove 21 is formed, may be moved away from the guide body
so as to permit of a ready interposition of the sweat band in said groove.
The inner wall of the groove 21 of the lever 20 is broken away for a consider-
able distance from the forward end of the lever so as to enable the roof of said
groove to serve in conjunction with the roof of the portion 15 of the groove 14
in the guide body to hold the folded edge of the hat in its proper position;
also the portion of the lever contiguous to the inner wall of the portion 16 of
the groove in the guide body is grooved as indicated by 23 to enable it in
conjunction with the said wall of the body and a short wall 24 at the forward
extremity of the lever, to form a continuation of the groove 16 of the body,
which is adapted to hold the reed up in the bight of the cloth and also hold both
reed and reed cloth in proper position at the point where the cloth is stitched
to the sweat band and the folded edge of a hat. The vertical wall 25 of the
groove 23 in lever 20 is beveled and serves in conjunction with the bevel 19
of the guide body to form a horizontally flaring mouth 26 at the forward end of
the guide way in which the reed and reed cloth are arranged, as best shown
in Fig. 10.
The manner in which the guide is used is as follows:
The back end of the folded edge of the hat is placed in the way 14, one end
of the reed and its covering cloth are placed in the portion 16 of groove 14
and are extended about one inch beyond the path of the needle, and one end of
the sweat leather is then inserted in the guide 21 to the needle opening or the
path of the needle. The parts having been thus placed in position, the clamping
wheel L is manipulated to press the materials against the feed wheel K and the
sewing is commenced and is continued until the extended end of the reed and
reed cover approaches the gauge. At this time the machine is stopped and the
operator laps the ends of the reed cloth, i.e. inserts one end of the reed and
reed cloth into the other end of the reed cloth, and cuts the last end of the
sweat leather to conform to the first. With this done, the sewing is continued
until the connection of the reed cloth, sweat leather and hat is completed and
the lapped ends of the reed cloth are connected together. From this it follows
that the sweat band, reed cloth and folded edge of the hat are connected together
and the lapped ends of the reed cloth are also connected which is advantageous
since it obviates the necessity of removing the materials from the machine in
order to effect such latter connection. The flaring mouth 26 at the forward end
of the reed and reed cloth guide way is designed to accomodate the lapped
portions of the reed cloth while the same are being connected by stitches, and
forms an important part of the guide, since if said guide were not provided with
means for accomodating the lapped portions of the reed cloth, it would be
necessary to remove the materials from the machine in order to connect the ends
of the cloth.
In Fig. 12 of the drawing, I have illustrated by full lines the positions in
which the sweat band, the reed and reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat
are presented to the needle, and by dotted lines the path of the needle when
the frame N is depressed and the path of the needle when said frame is raised.
From this it follows that when the frame N is raised, the needle will take over
the edge of the sweat band although immediately adjacent thereto and through

page_text: the reed cloth below the reed in the bight thereof and over the folded edge
of the hat so as to suugly secure the upper edge of the sweat band against the
cloth and also secure the reed or cord in the bight of the cloth and cause the
bight to set out from the folded edge of the hat, whereby it is enabled to prevent
said folded edge and the connecting stitches from contacting with the hair and
forehead of the wearer and being deteriorated by perspiration. It also follows
that when the frame N is depressed, the needle will form stitches through the
sweat band, the reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat and securely connect
the same together.
The special stitch forming mechanism which I have shown and described will,
when employed in conjunction with the guide described, connect the sweat band,
reed cloth and the folded edge of a hat after the manner pointed out. It will
also dress or ornament the space between the reed cloth and the folded edge
of the hat and is advantageous for such reason. Its operation is as follows:
With the frame N in its upper position, it will be seen that upon the inward
stroke of the needle R, the bar is given an upward movement and the loop
taker 2 is vibrated and its point raised to a plane above the path of the needle.
Upon the down stroke of the bar U, and during the receding stroke of the
needle, the loop taker will rock inwardly to take the thread bight or loop
from the needle. Also during such receding movement of the needle, the
materials will be fed forwardly a slight distance through the medium of the
feed wheel K. On the subsequent inward stroke of the needle, the loop taker
will shed its first loop and on the receding stroke of the needle, will take another
loop therefrom and draw it through the first loop or the loop which it has just
shed. The strokes of the needle thus far described will, because of the frame N
being raised, be through the reed cloth and over the folded edge of the hat
and above the sweat band. During the said latter receding stroke of the needle,
the frame N will be depressed and in consequence the loop retainer 6 will be
moved in the direction opposite to that indicated by arrow (see Fig. 5) and its
hook 8 will take and retain a loop. On the subsequent inward stroke of the
needle, which is now in its lower position, it will fake through the loop held
by the retainer 6 and at the same time the loop taker 2 will shed its loop and
on the receding stroke of the needle will take another loop from the needle and
draw it through the loop which it had previously shed. Also on the receding
stroke of the needle, the frame N will be raised and the loop retainer will be
moved in the direction indicated by arrow in Fig. 5 and will in consequence
shed its loop, after which the operation described is repeated. It will be observed
from the foregoing that the needle will form two stitches while the frame N
is in its upper position and but one stitch while said frame is in its lower position.
Also that the forward feed of the materials while the frame N is in its upper
position and subsequent to the shedding of the loop by the loop retainer 6
will draw the said loop taut and cause it to lay between the reed cloth, and the
folded edge of the hat and thereby materially enhance the finish of the hat.
While the strokes of the needle when the frame N is in its upper position
do not take through the sweat band, yet they take immediately above said
edge and thereby serve to snugly secure the same against the reed cloth.
Z designates a guard which is disposed below the feed wheel K and has for
its purpose to prevent said wheel from chafing the brim of a hat while the
same is being operated on.
In Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4* I have shown my improved hat.
Referring to said figures::
A designates a soft hat having a folded edge a; B designates a sweat leather
or band arranged at the inner side of the hat crown; C designates a folded
reed cloth, interposed between the sweat band and the folded edge of the hat
and so arranged that its bight b projects beyond the edge of the sweat band
and the folded edge of the hat; 1) designates a reed or cord arranged in the
bight b of cloth C; and E designates a thread. This thread E is arranged

page_text: to form stitches e through the sweat band, the reed cloth and the folded edge
of the hat to connect the same, and other stitches d over the edge of the sweat
band, through the reed cloth below, but not above the reed contained
by the bight thereof and over the folded edge of the hat, these
latter stitches being designed to snugly secure the reed or cord in the
bight of the cloth and cause the said bight to set out from the folded edge of
the hat, whereby it is enabled to prevent said folded edge and the connecting
stitches from contacting with the hair and forehead of the wearer.
In connecting the sweat band, reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat, I
first adjust said parts so that they occupy the relative position before stated, and
then pass a needle carrying a thread through the sweat band, reed cloth and folded
edge of the hat to form a stitch e and connect the same. The thread is then
retained to form a loop 1, and the needle is drawn back through the folded edge
of the hat, the reed cloth and the sweat band. The needle is now carried
upwardly and is passed over the sweat band, through the reed cloth, below the
reed or cord therein, over the folded edge of the hat and through the retained
loop 1.
The loop 1 is now released and the thread is retained to form a longi-
tudinal loop 2 which extends through the loop 1 and lies between the reed
cloth and the folded edge of the hat. After the needle is moved back through
the reed cloth, it is carried a slight distance toward the right so as to lay a
portion of thread 3 against the inner side of the reed cloth above the sweat
band, and is again passed over the upper edge of the sweat band, through the
reed cloth below the reed in the bight thereof, over the folded edge of the hat
and through the longitudinal loop 2. The loop 2 is now released and thread is
taken from the needle to form a loop 4 which extends through the loop and is
retained, after which the needle is returned and carried downwardly and is
passed through the sweat band, the reed cloth, and the folded edge of the hat
and also through the retained loop 4. Said loop 4 is now released and the
thread on the needle is retained to form a second loop 1 which extends through
the loop 4, after which the operation described is repeated until the sweat band,
the reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat are connected throughout their
length and the reed or cord is properly secured in the bight of the reed cloth
throughout the length of the same. It will be appreciated from the foregoing
that the strokes of the needle in its lower position will form stitches c, and
its strokes in its upper position will form stitches d. The special manipulation
of the thread forming the stitches c d will, by reason of the loops 1, 2 and 4
resting between the reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat, dress or ornament
the space between the said reed cloth and hat, and is advantageous for such
reason. I desire it understood, however, that I do not confine myself to such
particular manipulation of the thread as my invention chiefly resides in arranging
a thread to form stitches through a sweat band, a reed cloth and the folded edge
of a hat to connect the same, below but not above the reed or cord in the bight
thereof, for the purposes stated.
The herein described machine is designed for connecting a sweat band, reed
cloth and the folded edge of a hat, and for manipulating the thread forming the
stitches in the peculiar manner before described. As stated the organized stitch
forming mechanism of the said machine comprises a loop taker, a needle carried
by a vertically movable frame and adapted to make two stitches when the frame
is in its upper position and one stitch when the frame is in its lower position,
a loop retainer movable in a direction at right angles to the direction of movement
of the needle and loop taker, and a suitable feed mechanism. When the feed is
in the direction indicated by arrow in Fig. 2 and the movements of the said
elements of the stitch forming mechanism are properly timed, they will connect
the sweat band, reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat and will also manipulate
the thread in the peculiar manner described and shown in Fig. 2 as follows:
When the needle is in its lower position it will, on its forward stroke, pass
through the sweat band, reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat and will

page_text: then return. On the return movement of the needle, the loop taker will take a
loop (loop 1 of Fig. 2º) therefrom and the loop retainer will also engage said
loop. Simultaneously with this, the frame carrying the needle will be raised
so that the subsequent forward stroke of the needle will be above the sweat band,
through the reed cloth, above the folded edge of the hat and through the loop 1
held by the loop taker and loop retainer. On the return movement of the
needle in its upper position, the loop taker will release the loop 1, which however
is still held by the loop retainer, and will take another loop (loop 2 of Fig. 2ª)
from the needle and draw it through loop 1. A feed of the materials in the
direction indicated by arrow in Fig. 2 will then take place, and in consequence
the subsequent forward stroke of the needle will be through the loop 2. On
the return stroke of the needle, the loop taker will shed the loop 2 and will take
another loop (loop 4 of Fig. 2) from the needle and draw it through loop 2. The
frame carrying the needle will then be depressed and the loop retainer moved
to shed the loop 1. On the subsequent forward stroke of the needle in its lower
position, it will take through the sweat band, reed cloth and the folded edge of
the hat and also through the loop 4 on the loop taker, which will release the said
loop 4, and on the back or return stroke of the needle will take a loop (loop 1
of Fig. 2) and draw it through the loop 4. After this the operation described
is repeated until the sweat band, reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat are
connected throughout their length and the reed is properly secured in the bight
of the reed cloth as desired.
It will be appreciated from the foregoing that the stitches which secure the
reed or cord in the bight of the cloth do not extend through the sweat band and
the folled edge of the hat and consequently do not tend to cut the same. Said
stitches, however, pass immediately above the edge of the sweat band and thereby
snugly secure such edge against the reed cloth as is desirable.
As will be seen by reference to Fig. 4 of the drawings, one end of the reed
cloth and the reed therein is extended beyond one end of the sweat band, as
indicated by F. The stitching of the sweat band, reed cloth and the folded
edge of the hat together is commenced at the said end of the sweat band and
is continued until said end of the sweat band approaches the path of the needle.
At this time the sewing is stopped and the extended end F of the reed cloth and
the reed is telescoped into the other end G of the reed cloth from which a portion
of the reed has been removed. With this done, the sewing is continued to a
finish, when, as will be readily appreciated, the stitches will connect the telescoped
or lapped ends of the reed cloth in addition to connecting the reed cloth with
the sweat band and folded edge of the hat. This manner of connecting the
ends of the reed cloth is advantageous because it saves labor and also because it
insures a smooth finish at the point where the ends of the reed cloth are con-
nected which is a desideratum.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
1 In a hat sewing machine, the combination of a fixed guide having ways for
a sweat band and the folded edge of a hat arranged in the same or approximately
the same plane and also having a way for a reed and a reed cloth arranged
between and in a plane above the other ways; said reed and reed cloth way
having the flaring mouth at its forward end, a frame movable toward and from
the guide, and an organized stitch forming mechanism carried by said frame and
arranged to form stitches when the frame is in its upper and lower positions,
substantially as specified.
2-In a hat sewing machine, a fixed guide having ways for a sweat band and
the folded edge of a hat arranged in the same or approximately the same
horizontal plane and also having a way for a reed and a reed cloth arranged
between and in a plane above the other ways; in combination with a frame

page_text: movable toward and from the guide, a suitable feed mechanism, and an organized
stitch forming mechanism comprising a needle, a loop taker and a loop retainer
movable in a direction at right angles to the needle and loop taker; the stitch
forming mechanism being arranged to form stitches when the frame is in its
lower position and stitches when the frame is in its upper position, and the
frame being so arranged and having movements of such extent that the lower
stitches will be through the sweat band, the reed cloth and the folded edge
of the hat while the upper stitches will be over the edge of the sweat band,
through the reed cloth below the reed and over the folded edge of the hat,
whereby the sweat band, reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat are connected
without covering the bight of the reed cloth and the space between said reed
cloth and the hat is dressed, substantially as specified.
3 In a sewing machine, the combination of a main frame, a stud 10 fixed with
respect to the same, a vertically movable frame, and an organized stitch forming
mechanism carried by the vertically movable frame and comprising a needle,
a loop taker and a loop retainer; the latter being pivoted or fulcrumed on the
vertically movable frame and having a cam slot receiving the stud 10 on the
main frame substantially as specified.
4-A guide for hat sewing machines comprising a body and a spring pressed
lever and having a way in the body for receiving and guiding a reed and a
reed cloth and also having a continuation of said way formed between the lever
and body and flared at its forward end, substantially as specified.
5 A guide for hat sewing machines comprising a body and a spring pressed
lever, and having ways in the hody for the reception of a reed and reed cloth
and the folded edge of a hat, respectively, and a way in the lever for the
reception of a sweat band and also having a continuation of the reed and reed
cloth way formed between the lever and body and flared at its forward end
and further having the wall 24 on the lever at the forward extremity thereof,
substantially as specified.
6 A guide for hat sewing machines comprising a body and a spring pressed
lever, and having ways in the body and lever in the same or approximately the
same plane for the reception of the folded edge of a hat and a sweat band,
respectively, and a way in the body, arranged between and in a plane above
the other ways, for the reception of a reed and reed cloth, and also having a
continuation of the reed and reed cloth way formed between the lever and the
body and flared at its forward end, and further having the wall 24 at the forward
extremity of the lever, substantially as specified.
7-A hat having a sweat band, and a reed cloth the bight of which extends
beyond the edge of the sweat band and the folded edge of the hat and contains
a reed or cord, and also having a continuous thread arranged to form lower
stitches through the sweat band, below the upper edge thereof, the reed cloth and
the folded edge of the hat to connect the same, and also arranged to form upper
stitches passing transversely above the upper edge of the sweat band and through
the reed cloth below the reed or cord in the bight thereof, whereby the reed
is snugly secured in the bight of the reed cloth, and the upper edge of the
sweat band is dressed and snugly secured against the reed cloth, substantially
as specified.
8A hat having a sweat band and a reed cloth containing a reed or cord and
also having one end of the reed or cord arranged within the cloth at a distance
from one end thereof and the other end of the cloth and the reed or cord therein
telescoped in or lapped by the first named end of the cloth, and a continuous
thread arranged to form stitches through the sweat band, the reed cloth and the
folded edge of the hat to connect the same and also arranged to form other
distinct stitches over the edge of the sweat band and through the reed cloth
below the reed or cord in the bight thereof, whereby the reed is snugly secured
in the bight of the cloth, the lapped ends of the cloth are connected together,

page_text: and the upper edge of the sweat band is dressed and snugly secured against the
reed cloth, substantially as specified.
9-A hat having a sweat band and a reed cloth, the bight of which extends
beyond the edge of the sweat band and the folded edge of the hat and contains
a reed or cord, and also having a thread arranged to form stitches through the
sweat band, the reed cloth and the folded edge of the hat to connect the same
and other stitches through the reed cloth, below the reed in the bight thereof,
alone, and also arranged to form loops 1, 2 and 4 between the reed cloth and the
folded edge of the hat and the portions of thread 3 against the inner side of
the reed cloth above the sweat band, substantially as specified.
10 A hat having a sweat band a reed or cord, and a cloth containing the
reed or cord; said cloth having one of its ends extended beyond one end of
the reed or cord and also having such extended end receiving its other end and the
reed or cord therein, and stitches connecting the lapped ends of the reed cloth,
substantially as specified.
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.