IMPROVEMENTS IN OVER-STITCH SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1884

page_text: I, HENRY EDWARD NEWTON of the Office for Patents, Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the
nature of my Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN OVER-STITCH SEWING MACHINES
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
น
ور
The present Invention relates to a sewing machine which is designed and
adapted to unite the edges of the fabric by what is known as an " over-stitch or
"
over-seam that is to say, a seam in which the thread in addition to being
carried through the plies of the fabric, is carried around the edges of the same.
Such a seam permits the plies of the united material to be spread flat or
separated so that their edges will simply abut or be adjacent to each other, and
is particularly desirable for many kinds of work, as for example in making up
many classes of knit goods, or uniting the breadths of carpets or in fact in any case
where it is desirable to prevent the raw edges of the fabric from ravelling or that
the united fabric when spread flat should present a perfectly smooth surface and be
throughout of uniform thickness.
The details of construction and organization of the mechanism in which the
Invention is embodied are hereinafter so fully explained as to render further
preliminary description unnecessary to a proper understanding of the Invention.
In the accompanying Drawings:-
Fig. 1 is a rear elevation of a mechanism embodying the Invention.
Fig. 2. is a side elevation of the same.
Fig. 3. is a plan view of the same, the presser foot, feed bar and cloth plate being
removed.
Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 are detail views showing the looper in its
different positions.
Figures 12, 13, 14 and 15 are views showing the different steps in the formation
of the stitch, and
Figures 16 and 17 show the seam from opposite sides of the fabric.
Referring to said Drawings it is to be understood that the cloth plate 10 upon
which the fabric rests during the sewing operation, is arranged and supported in
[Price 6d1

page_text: substantially the same manner as in ordinary sewing machines.
The presser
foot 12 between which and the plate 10 the cloth passes is also arranged in the
usual manner, it being attached to a rod 13, which is yieldingly supported in an
overhanging arm or bracket 14 which rises from the base 15 of the machine.
The needle 16 is also of the usual construction and is attached to the end of a
reciprocating needle bar 17 which receives motion from a lever which is pivotted
to the arm 14 and operated through suitable connections from the main shaft 18
all in the usual manner. The arm 14 is also provided with the usual devices for
supporting, guiding and giving the proper tension to the thread. The cloth
feeding mechanism is also of a common construction consisting of a toothed bar 19
which is operated by a spring 20 and a cam upon the main shaft 18, and provided
with the usual cam lever 21 for regulating the length of the stitch. The mechanism
thus far described is shown merely for the purpose of illustration as any of the
other common forms of needle-driving, tension and feed mechanism may be
employed if preferred.
This mechanism instead of being provided with the ordinary looping hook by
which the loop of the thread after being carried through the fabric by the needle
is caught and retained in position for the needle to pass through it upon its next
descent is provided with devices by which the loop of the thread is taken, carried
around the edge of the fabric and presented to the needle upon the entering side,
so that the needle upon its second descent passes through the loop before it enters
the fabric instead of after it has passed through the same thus forming an
stitch" instead of an ordinary "chain-stitch."
" over-
This transfer of the loop is accomplished by means of a looper or picker arranged
beneath the cloth plate 10 and operated from the main shaft 18.
This looper consists of a curved metal bar 9, of substantially the form shown in
the various Figures of the Drawings, provided at its end with a lip 8 which enters
between the needle and the thread so as to catch the loop and carry it around the
edge of the fabric and a curved flange 7 which serves to bold the loop distended
while the needle passes through it.
To effect the transfer of the loop, as specified in the best manner the looper is
given the following movements:
First: It is caused to advance that is to say, move toward the operator or in a
direction opposite to that of the feed of the cloth, until its lip 8 has entered the
loop formed by the downward passage of the needle. Second: It is oscillated
about its axis to carry the loop around the edge of the fabric. Third: It is
vibrated laterally so as to carry the loop onto the fabric and into line with the
needle. Fourth: It is caused to retreat that is to say, move in a direction opposite
to its advance, slightly so as to carry the loop under the needle and into position
for the needle to pass through it upon its descent. Fifth. After the needle has
passed through the loop the looper is caused to again advance slightly so as to
carry its flange 7 to the front of the needle. Sixth: It is caused to vibrate
laterally so as to clear itself from the needle and Seventh. It is caused to
simultaneously oscillate and retreat back to its normal position.
To permit of the oscillating movements just specified the looper is secured to the
end of a rock shaft 22 which is mounted in suitable bearings 23 located beneath
the cloth plate as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. These oscillating movements are effected
by means of a properly shaped cam 24. secured to the shaft 18, in the groove 25
of which rests a bowl 26 extending from one arm of a pivotted yoke 27 the other
arm of which is connected by a universal joint 28 with a link 29 which is pivotted
to a rock arm 30 extending from the shaft 22, all as shown in Figures 1. 2 and 3.
To permit of the vibratory movement specified the bearings 23 of the shaft 22
are secured to a bed piece 31 which is pivotted at one end to a bolt 32 so as to be
capable of a slight lateral vibratory movement as indicated by dotted lines in
Figure 3.
The bed piece 31 is provided with a stud 33 which is acted upon by a spring 34
so as to normally hold said bed piece and the shaft 22 in the position shown

page_text: by full lines in Figure 3, the outward movement of the bed piece being limited by
a stop 35. The vibratory movement of the looper is also effected by the cam 24
the groove of which is of such shape that the yoke 27 will move a short distance
after the link 29 and rock arm 30 have been drawn into line from which it results
that after the shaft 22 has ceased to rock and the looper has reached the limit of
its upward movement the bed piece 31 will be drawn to the position shown in
dotted lines in Figure 3 thereby (as will readily be seen) vibrating the looper
laterally and carrying it over the edge of the fabric into line with the needle.
To permit the advancing and retreating movements specified, the bed piece 31 is
mounted upon a carriage 36, which slides in a dovetail groove 37 in the bed 15 of
the machine. These movements are effected by means of a cam 38, secured to the
end of the shaft 18, which acts upon a stud 39 secured to an extension 40 of the
carriage and a spring 41 which acts to hold the stud 39 constantly pressed against
said cam.
If preferred the spring 41 may be omitted and a second cam provided for
operating the carriage so that the same will be moved positively in both directions.
It will be observed that the shaft 22 is slightly bent so that as it is rocked as
just described, its free end which carries the looper is caused to vibrate laterally as
indicated by dotted lines in Figure 3 from which it results that the looper instead
of moving in the arc of a circle as would be the case if the shaft 22 was straight,
has an oval path of travel, as indicated by the dotted lines in Figure 5. This is a
feature of great importance as by this means the looper is enabled to carry the
loop around the edge of the fabric with the least possible amount of travel.
It will be observed that the cloth plate 10 is provided with a suitable opening 42
(see Figures 5 and 9) for the passage of the looper and that the presser foot 12
is provided with a lateral recess for the same purpose.
The operation of the mechanism just described is as follows.
The plies of the fabric 6 which are to be united having been placed in proper
position beneath the presser foot and the shaft 18 set in motion the needle will
pass downward through the fabric carrying with it the loop 5 of the thread. As
the needle reaches the limit of its downward movement and commences to return
so as to allow the loop to slacken a trifle and stand away from the needle the
part 2 of the cam 38 will come into contact with the stud 39 and advance the
looper from the position shown in Figures 2 and 3 to the position shown in
Figures 4, 5 and 12 and cause the lip 8 to enter the loop 5 as shown in said
Figures. As soon as this takes place the cam 24 will rock the shaft 22 so as to
oscillate the looper from the position shown in Figures 4, 5 and 12 to the position
shown in Figure 6 and by dotted lines in Figure 5 thereby carrying the loop
outward and upward past the edge of the fabric. Figure 13 shows the looper in a
position intermediate of those shown in Figures 5 and 12 and 6. When the
looper has arrived in this position the continued action of the cam 24 will move
the bed piece 31 to the position shown in dotted lines in Figure 3 thereby vibrating
the looper laterally from the position shown in Figure 6 over the edge of the
fabric to the position shown in Figure 7. By the time this has taken place the
part 3 of the cam 38 will come into contact with the stud 39 thereby allowing
the looper to retreat slightly say about a 64th to a 32nd of an inch so as to bring the
loop into proper position to be caught by the needle upon its next descent as shown
in Figures 8, 9 and 14. As soon as the needle has been withdrawn from the
fabric upon its upward movement the fabric will be advanced for the next stitch
which will draw the thread to such a position that the flange 7 of the looper will
hold the loop properly distended as shown in Figure 8. As soon as the loop has
been carried to the position just described the needle will again commence to
descend and in so doing will pass through the loop 5 as shown in Figure 15. As
soon as the loop 5 has been caught by the needle the part 4 of the cam 38 will
come into engagement with the stud 39 and cause the looper to again advance to
the position shown in Figure 10 so as to carry the flange 7 to the front of the .
needle. As soon as this takes place the cam 24 will arrive in such position as to
allow the spring 34 to move the plate 31 back to its normal position which will

page_text: vibrate the looper to the position shown in Figure 11, and immediately after this
the looper will simultaneously oscillate and retreat back to its normal position
from which it will be again advanced after the needle has reached the limit of its
downward movement. And so the operation will continue to be repeated at each
reciprocation of the needle the loop being each time carried around the edge of the
fabric and caught upon the upper side so as to unite the fabric by an
stitch seam such as shown in Figures 16 and 17.
"
" over-
It is of course to be understood that any suitable form of gauge or guide may, if
desired, be attached to the cloth plate to aid in regulating or securing uniformity
in the width of the seam and also that any suitable trimming apparatus may be
employed in connection with this sewing mechanism so that if necessary the raw
edges of the fabric can be automatically trimmed before being united.
In some cases the looper, instead of being advanced from the position shown in
Figure 6 to that shown in Figure 7 and then caused to retreat to the position
shown in Figure 8 may be vibrated directly from the position shown in Figure
to that shown in Figure 8 but it will usuall be preferable to cause it to move in the
manner first described.
Although as here shown the needle reciprocates vertically and the fabric is fed
beneath the needle yet it will readily be seen that by a proper arrangement of
the parts the Invention could be applied equally well to a machine in which the
needle moves horizontally or to one in which the needle travels over the fabric.
In conclusion it is to be remarked that the mechanism herein shown and
described as embodying the Invention may be varied greatly in many of its details
without departing from or losing the advantages of the Invention the essential
feature of which is the looper having the movements described, and not the
particular devices herein shown for effecting these movements. I do not therefore
limit myself to the particular devices herein shown for effecting the described
movements of the looper but refer to them simply as examples of mechanisms
suitable for the purpose.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating the
same, of the looper .9 mounted upon the rock shaft 22 located beneath the cloth
plate; means, as the cam 24, and connections for rocking or partially rotating said
shaft to cause the looper to carry the loop around the edge of the fabric, and
means as the cam 24, support 31 and connections for vibrating said shaft laterally
to cause the looper to carry the loop onto the fabric, substantially as described.
2. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating the
same, of the looper 9 mounted upon rock shaft 22 located beneath the cloth-plate,
means, as the cam 38 and connections, for moving said shaft longitudinally to enter
the looper between the needle and thread, means, as the cam 24 and connections
for rocking or partially rotating said shaft, to cause the looper to carry the loop
around the edge of the fabric, and means, as the cam 24, support 31, and
connections, for vibrating said shaft laterally to cause the looper to carry the loop
on to the fabric, substantially as described. .
3. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating the
same, of the looper 9 mounted upon the bent rock shaft 22 located beneath the
cloth plate, means for causing the said looper to enter between the thread and
needle, and means for rocking said shaft to cause the looper to carry the loop
around the edge of the fabric, substantially as described.
4. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating the
same, of the looper 9 mounted upon the bent rock shaft 22 located beneath the
cloth plate, means for causing said looper to enter between the thread and needle,
means for rocking said shaft to cause the looper to carry the loop around the edge
of the fabric and means for vibrating said shaft to cause the looper to carry the
loop onto the fabric, substantially as described.

page_text: 5. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating the
same, of the looper 9 arranged beneath the cloth plate, and means, as the bent rock
shaft 22 and its connections, for causing said looper to take an oval path of travel
in carrying the loop around the edge of the fabric, substantially as described.
6. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating the
same, of the looper 9, means, as the bent rock shaft 22 and its connections for
causing said looper to take an oval path of travel in carrying the loop around the
edge of the fabric, and means, as the cam 24, snpport 31 and connections, for
causing said looper to take a straight path of travel in carrying the loop onto the
fabric, substantially as described.
7. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating the
same, of the bent rock shaft 22 mounted on a reciprocating carriage beneath the
cloth plate and carrying the looper, and means for reciprocating said carriage so
as to cause the looper to enter between the thread and needle substantially as
described.
.
8. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating
the same, of the bent rock shaft 22 carrying the looper and mounted upon a
pivotted support beneath the cloth plate, and means for vibrating said support
so as to cause the looper to carry the loop onto the fabric, substantially as
described.
9. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating the
same, of the bent rock shaft 22 carrying the looper and mounted upon a pivotted
support beneath the cloth plate, means for rocking said shaft to cause the looper
to carry the loop around the edge of the fabric, and means for vibrating said
support to cause the looper to carry the loop onto the fabric substantially as
described.
10. The combination with the thread carrying needle and means for operating
the same of the bent rock shaft 22 carrying the looper and mounted upon a pivotted
support upon a reciprocating carriage beneath the cloth plate, means for recipro-
cating said carriage to cause the looper to enter between the thread and needle,
means for rocking said shaft to cause the looper to carry the loop around the edge
of the fabric, and means for vibrating said support to cause the looper to carry the
loop on to the fabric, substantially as described.
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