A NEW KIND OF EMBROIDERY FOR GLOVE-MAKING
Year: 1884

page_text: I, WILLIAM EDWARD GEDGE of No 11 Wellington Street Strand, London, in the
County of Middlesex Patent Agent do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for "A NEW KIND OF EMBROIDERY FOR GLOVE-MAKING " to be as follows:→
The new kind of Embroidery for Glove-making the subject of this Invention,
5 consists in an embroidery termed unbreakable embroidery (broderie incassabe),
having the great advantage of not piercing the glove, as do the embroideries
hitherto made by the embroidering hook.
The silk forming the embroidery does not pass through the glove, it is as it were
braided on the glove and held by a fine, silk thread, which alone passes into the
thickness of the skin or leather without passing through it, or very slightly,
according to the thickness of the skin, and always without in any way injuring
the strength of the glove.
The silk forming the embroidery does not pass through the glove, which, besides
perfect strength gives also a great saving of silk.
The saving of silk obtained by this process, is about one third of the silk
employed to obtain an embroidery of the same thickness made with the crochet
or hook, but the principal advantage of this Embroidery is that it never causes the
glove to tear, which is very frequent with other embroidery.
I obtain embroidery of every thickness, according to the thickness of the
silk employed and the number of bands or strips of embroidery mechanically
juxtaposed.
To obtain an embroidery of more or less width, two or three bands of embroidery
are juxtaposed, care being taken to commence the second band or strip which is to
touch the first, on the side upon which this has been ended.
The embroidery which will be most used is that made of a single strip or band
of embroidery, with silk more or less thick.
I may also obtain several shades in the same embroidery, by using for the
juxtaposed bands or strips of a same embroidery, silks of different shades.

page_text: A particular kind of silk is manufactured with the necessary twist for this
embroidery and the needle which it is preferred to use is the number 20, the
finest needle known to me.
"
This Embroidery is executed the glove being cut out only and not yet sewn,
it is obtained mechanically by the aid of a novel combination of the "Brosser
sewing machine. The draw-wheel or carrier of this machine is replaced by a
wheel having Seventy points, instead of the wheels having One hundred and
twenty and One hundred and forty points used for sewing or seaming.
The needle of the machine carries the small silk or thread which fixes the
embroidery and the crochet or hook carries the silk which makes the embroidery.
The tensions of the machine should be as slack as possible.
The embroidery being executed by the machine, the ends of silk cut at the
two extremities of the embroidery are brought within the glove, by means of a
fine needle, carrying a thread of silk double threaded without knot and forming
also a loop on one side.
The ends of the silk to be entered are passed into this loop, and in planting the
needle at the extremity in the middle of the breadth of the embroidery, the silk
ends which remain outside are brought within by the loop..
The ends are brought within at each extremity of the embroidery, and by the
same hole; they are all knotted interiorly and the embroidery thus fastened off
cannot undo itself.
H

page_text: The whip-stitching machine ("Surjeteuse ") shown shown on the accompanying
drawing comprises essentially a shaft A drawn by a pulley P and carrying a triple
cam B which determines the respective movements of the needle D, the feed
catch K and of the thread-presser L.
The shaft A carries a second cam C which determines the movement of the
whip-stitching arm or lever ("bras de surjet ") Q having at its end the hook g.
Suitably arranged springs maintain the contact of these several pieces with their
cams. The arm or lever Q is so fitted as to possess an oscillatory movement in the
vertical plane and a horizontal movement; these two movements are directed by
the cam C.
The feeding of the article to be whip-stitched is determined by the two wheels
or rolls a and b which nip it between them.
The axle of the wheel a carries the ratchet c actuated, by the above mentioned
catch K. The roll or wheel b is mounted on a lever X which may oscillate at Y.
A suitable spring establishes contact between the two rolls or wheels a and b.
The whip stitching machine works with two threads, one of these threads belongs
to the needle D the other to the hook g.
The combined movements of the two parts and the feeding of the work by the
rolls a and b produce the whip-stitch ("point de surjet)..
The modification which is made in this machine to obtain the stitch forming
embroidery of this Invention consists in replacing the actual ratchet c with very
fine teeth (90 to 150 teeth) by a ratchet having 60 teeth for thick embroidery or
sewing made with thick "Berlin" twist braid or edging, and with 70 teeth for
Embroidery made with finer silk.

page_text: I change the ratchet of the "Brosser" machine to obtain a longer stitch in order
to obtain greater strength piercing the glove at intervals more or less apart, and to
obtain a stitch forming embroidery, and not a whip-stitch as is produced with the
fine toothed ratchet and in order to be able to use thick "Berlin" silk twist or
braid without the stitches of this twist or braid being too close to each other, and
in order that they may form a string embroidering similar to that made by hook
or crochet.
I obtain four embroiderings of different thicknesses.
No 1. The finest embroidery is a stitching forming embroidery, made with a
ratchet having seventy points or teeth.
No 2. An embroidery slightly thicker is a sewing or Embroidery made with
thick "Berlin" twist or braid, and by putting into the machine a ratchet having
sixty teeth.
"
N° 3. An embroidery slightly thicker than the preceeding and replacing "Derby.
Embroidery, and of the same width, is formed of two stitchings or seams made
with thick "Berlin" twist or braid and with the sixty toothed ratchet...These
two stitchings or seams are united and juxtaposed, they riso slightly the one upon
the other in order to form but a single sprig, strip, band or branch of wider
Embroidery.
The two stitchings or seams forming this embroidery must be commenced in
inverse direction.
N° 4. The broadest or widest embroidering, is formed of three stitchings or
seams juxtaposed and slightly rising the one on the other and commenced in
inverse directions and thus form but a single sprig or branch of very broad
Embroidery.
•
It is made with thick "Berlin" twist or braid, and by putting into the machine
a ratchet having sixty points or teeth.
The needle of the machine carries a fine silk thread, and the hook or crochet
of the machine carries the silk twist or braid more or less thick which forms the
embroidery.
In this way the silk which forms the Embroidery does not pass through the
glove.
I also obtain several shades in the same embroidery, by using for the juxtaposed
stitching, bands, or strip of a same embroidery, silks of different shades of colour.
I make a particular kind of silk with the requisite twist for this Embroidering
The needle which I prefer to use is the number 21, the finest known to me.
The tension of the machine should be as slack as possible. The embroidery
having been executed by the machine, the ends of silk cut at the two extremities
of the embroidery are brought within the glove by means of a fine needle carrying
a thread of silk double threaded without knot, and thus forming a loop on
one side.
-
The ends of the silk to be entered are passed into this loop and in planting the
needle at the extremity in the middle of the breadth of the Embroidery, the ends
of silk are brought within the glove by the loop.
The ends are brought within at each extremity of the embroidery, and by the
same hole, they are then sewn or knotted interiorly, and the embroidery thus
- fastened off cannot undo itself.
The silk ends of the extremity of the Embroidery may also be entered by means
'of a very fine embroidering hook or crochet, care being taken to make the hole for
entering the silk as small as possible.
•
The silk forming the embroidery does not pass through the kid or leather,
which, besides giving great strength, gives also a great saving of silk.
The saving of silk obtained by this process, is nearly half the silk employed to
obtain an embroidery of the same thickness made with the Embroidering crochet
or hook, but the principle advantage of this Embroidery is to preserve to the glove
all its strength and never to cause it to tear which occurs frequently with other
embroidery.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
The system of unbreakable Embroidery obtained by direct sewing by the aid
of the "Brosser" machine modified as herein before described with reference to
the annexed drawing, in order to produce a lengthened stitch giving the appearance
of Embroidery without this stitch passing through the skin or material of the
glove, which thus retains all its strength. It is in short, a 'novel application
of the "Brosser" whip-stitcher, modified for the purpose of realizing a novel
product and this product itself, that is to say unbreakable Embroidery is what
claim.