New or Improved Process for Self-binding the Edges of Leather Goods, and Appliances for Use in connection therewith.
Year: 1895

page_text: New or Improved Process for Self-binding the Edges of Leather
Goods, and Appliances for Use in connection therewith.
I, SAMUEL THOMAS HUNTER, of Frogmore Street, Bristol, Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
:-
My invention relates to a new or improved process for forming the edges of
leather goods, and to appliances for use in connection therewith.
The present method of binding the edges of leather goods consists in sewing on a
narrow strip of leather, which must necessarily be thin for the purposes of turning
and forming a neat surface, consequently the binding is worn out long before the
other part of the material, giving it a ragged and shabby appearance; in addition
to this, with coloured goods there is a difficulty in always securing a good match.
The object of my invention is to dispense with the binding, and to turn over a part
of the material itself, which will make a firm and strong edge, and dispense with
difficulty in matching.
The leather used in making such goods as leggings and many other articles is
too thick to permit the edge to be turned over in its normal state, the flesh or back
part of the leather is therefore cut away for a suitable distance from the edge,
leaving the grain or face of the leather and then turned over and stitched at the
usual distance, thus forming a self-bound edge.
To carry my invention into effect, I use a machine similar to the ordinary
skiving machine, but instead of the knife being set to cut on the bevel, it is set
horizontally, to cut parallel with the grain of the leather, and at one end of the
knife, the edge is turned up at an angle to form a plough, so that the leather is put
under the cutter of a machine, and a piece of the under part ploughed out, leaving
a narrow strip of the grain of a uniform width and thickness to form the binding,
the leather is then put through another machine with a pair of roller wheels, one
of which has a slight projection (preferably milled), and the other a groove to
correspond, and as the step on the under surface is passed between the wheels,
a ridge formed on the grain, which enables the thin strip or binding to be
readily turned over, and fed to the sewing machine for stitching in the usual way.
Dated this 28th day of November 1895.

page_text: New or Improved Process for Self-binding the Edges of Leather
Goods, and Appliances. for Use in connection therewith.
I, SAMUEL THOMAS HUNTER, of Frogmore Street, Bristol, Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
My invention relates to a new or improved process for forming the edges of
leather goods, and to appliances for use in connection therewith.
The present method of binding the edges of leather goods consists in sewing on a
narrow strip of leather, which, for the purposes of turning and forming a neat finish,
must necessarily be thin, consequently the binding is worn out long before the other
parts of the material or article, giving it a ragged and shabby appearance; in
addition to this, with coloured goods, there is frequently some difficulty in
securing a good and proper match. The object of my invention is to dispense
with the separate piece of leather binding and to turn over a part of the material
itself, which will form a strong and firm edge, and obviate the difficulty in
matching.
As the leather used in making such goods as leggings and many other articles
is too thick to permit the edge to be turned over in its normal condition, the flesh
or under part of the leather is cut away for a suitable distance from the edge,
leaving the grain or prepared face of the leather, which is then turned over and
stitched at the usual distance, thus forming a self bound edge.
To carry my invention into effect, I provide a machine that is practically
identical with the ordinary skiving machines, but instead of using a knife that has
a straight cutting edge, and that is set at a bevel so as to thin the back of the
leather gradually from the flesh to the face, I use a knife with the edge at one end
turned up at right angles, as shown by A in Figure 1 of the accompanying
drawings, the part a being set horizontally to cut parallel to the face of the
leather, the edger being perpendicular thereto; Fig. 2 shows a piece of leather B,
with the flesh side uppermost, from which a fillet has been cut away, leaving a
thinned strip C, consisting of the grain or enamelled face of the leather, with a
firm edge D, against which the operator turns the strip C with the greatest
accuracy; Fig. 3 is a section of Fig. 2, showing the fillet removed and the
binding strip left; Fig. 4 is a similar section, with the strip turned over and
stitched, while Fig. 5 is a plan B¹ of a similar piece of leather, after it has been
stitched.
A knife similar to A is fitted to any ordinary skiving machine, but set
horizontally, and the leather rolled or otherwise drawn against the cutting
edges a and of the knife; the thin part C being left of a uniform thickness, a
suitable binding is provided, in place and ready for machining in the usual
manner.
When filing my Provisional Specification, it was thought desirable to use
another machine with grooved and beaded wheels, for the purpose of accurately
turning over the thinned grain of the leather, this is now found to be unnecessary, as
by simply turning the thinned strip over on the back of the leather, and slightly
tapping it at the corners with a hammer when necessary, the leather edge can be
readily prepared for the sewing machine without any pasting, the usual guides o
hemmers of the machine keeping the whole in position for stitching at the usua
distance from the edge with less trouble than is required with ordinary binding
while a firm self bound edge is formed, and all difficulty in matching is removed.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The construction of a knife with a turned-up edge and attaching the same to
an ordinary skiving machine for the purpose of ploughing or cutting away a strip
adjacent to the edge of a piece of leather, substantially as described.
2. In the manufacture of leggings and other leather goods, ploughing and
removing a strip from the flesh of the leather, leaving the grain thinned down to a
suitable thickness and width for binding, the step or set-off of the leather left by
the turned up edge of the knife forming a guide against which the thinned strip
of grain is turned over and stitched, substantially as herein described and set
forth.
Sen mos arre
1030
J. G. WESTLAKE,
2, John Street, Bristol, Applicant's Agent.