IMPROVEMENTS IN PRODUCING PLAIN OR ORNAMENTAL WEAVINGS;
Year: 1835

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SAMUEL
DRAPER, of Basford, in the County of Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent, under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Fifteenth day of October, in the sixth year of His reign did,
for Ilimself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Samuel
Draper, His especial license, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I,
the said Samuel Draper, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Samuel Draper, my exors, adñiors, or assigns, should at any time'
agree with and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PRODUCING PLAIN OR ORNAMENTAL WEAVINGS;"
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso, that I, the said Samuel
Draper, shall cause a particular description of the nature of my said Invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in His said
Majesty's High Court of Chancery, within six calendar next and immediately
after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent as in and by the same,
reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I the said
Samuel Draper, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention and the manner
in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and ascertained in

page_text: and by the following description thereof, reference being bad to the Drawings
hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon, that is
to say:-
My Invention relates, first, to the combining of the properties of the
jacquard loom, with bobbin-net machinery, whereby the cards are enabled to
select any and every of the threads of such latter machinery, and cause the same
to be laid or woven into plain and ornamental weavings, and whereby a machine
constructed according to my improvements will partake of the capabilities of
both these descriptions of machinery, and enable the workman to produce a
greater variety of weavings, whether plain or ornamental, than can be obtained
in either class of machinery when uncombined; and also the application of an
improved stump bar for properly dividing the threads of such machinery, and
in the application of a locker bar to take the drivers when selected, as will be
fully described hereafter.
Secondly, my Invention relates to improvements in apparatus (applied to
that class of bobbin-net machinery which work by a single tier of carriages),
for producing a weaving of cloth work by the aid of carriage threads with weft
threads, but without a warp, as hereafter described.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 represents a transverse section of a lace machine, the various move-
ments and operations of the parts of which are derived from and produced by
the rotatory motion of handle as is well understood; and this Figure also
shews part of my improvements applied thereto, for causing and regulating the
manner in which the individual threads of the carriages shall be laid or inter-
laid in the process of producing the various plain or ornamental weavings,
which this or similar machines, when constructed according to my Invention,
will be capable of producing. Lace machines being well understood, it will not
be necessary to enter into more than a general description of the parts shewn
in the Drawing, and then particularly to explain the nature and manner of
combining therewith the improvements, in order fully to explain how such
description of machinery is caused to work in order to produce the objects of
my Invention, which first relates to the application to lace machinery of what
ere called cards, and what are commonly in uso in looms for weaving figured
fbies, such as are used in what are called jacquard looms. And by such
application of cards to, and combination of these two systems of machines, I
an enabled to produce machines having the capabilities of both; and hence, I
eta obtain by the working of my improvements, greater diversity of plain or
ornamental weavings than it is possible to obtain by either of the classes of

page_text: machinery when uncombined. In each of the Figures in the Drawings, the
same letters of reference are used to denote similar parts whenever they occur;
a, a, being the front circular bolts, in which the carriages which contain the
bobbins work; b and c are the back circular bolts, which, it will be seen, are
divided into two parts, the parts 6 being affixed to the back circular bolt bar,
and the parts c are affixed to the bar a; consequently the bar d, with its
parts of the bolt c, will be able to shog independently of the parts of the bolts b,
and the parts of the bolts 6 are capable of shogging independently of the parts c,
and the front bolts a are fixed and stationary; e, e, are the upper circular
combs and their comb bars, which bars are stationary. The combs e, e, have
twice the number of spaces between them of the bolts a, b, c, all which are
similar to the arrangements described in the Specification, which was duly
inrolled, to a Patent granted to me by His present most Excellent Majesty
King William the Fourth, for "An improved machine for making an im-
proved manufacture of figured bobbin net, or what is commonly called bobbin
net lace," and bearing date at Westminster the Twenty-fifth day of September,
in the fifth year of His reign, and such is the case with respect to many other
of the parts shewn in the Drawings.
It will be found that I have marked the bolts in the present Drawing with
the same letters of reference as those used by my former Specification, but I
do not propose to mark any other parts which are similar to those in the former
Specification in like manner, but to proceed to describe the parts as shewn in
the Drawings, without reference to the former Specification. f.f, are the cranked
handles by which the workman actuates the machine; these cranked handles
are keyed to the axis g, which turns in suitable bearings in the framing, as
is clearly shewn in the Drawing, and are similar in every respect to those in
common use. h is a cog wheel affixed on the axis g; this cog wheel takes into
and drives the intermediate cog wheel i affixed on the axis i, which is capable
of adjustment in the slot cut in the framing for that purpose; is the main
shaft, on which shaft are affixed the various cams for actuating the different
parts of the machine. The shaft k receives motion by means of the cog
wheels j, which is affixed on that axis, and that wheelj taking into is driven by
the intermediate cog wheel i. It should be stated that the description of
Trame now used by me, and to which my improvements are applied, is what is
known in the trade (when made only for the purpose of making bobbin
net) by the name of "Morley's rotary," and the wheels which shog the back
bolt bar and work the taking up points are worked by wheels on shafts.
or axis paralell with the main shaft or axis k, and receiving motion by
pinions on the shaft k, taking into cog wheels (of three times the diameter

page_text: of the pinions) affixed on the shafts which carry the wheels which shog
the back blt bar and work the points, but in place of having the back bolts
brought back by a spring, I prefer there to be a wheel at each end to work
that back bolt bar, and in place of having guide bar wheels on such shafts or
axis, as is the case when the machine is constructed for weaving only bobbin
net, but which are not required when adapting the machine to combine with
my improvements, those wheels are therefore dispensed with, and in place
thereof a shogging wheel is placed at each end of the machine (and on such
shafts) for the purpose of working the bolt bar d, in order to obtain the
requisite shogs to the bolt c. One set of the wheels for shogging the back
bolts b and c being shewn in separate figures and a large size, and they being
similar to those shewn and described in my former Specification, they will not
require further description here.
Fig. 2 is the main shaft shewn separately in its length, in order to shew
the proper position of the whole of the cams which are affixed thereon; and
in order to clearly explain the working of all the parts which receive their
motion from the main shaft, I have shewn each cam separately, together with
the part which it actuates. I therefore propose to trace separately each
motion from each particular cam to its result on the instrument or part of the
machine which that cam has to work by this means, and as the positions of
the various cams on the main shaft are shewn in the Drawing, the workman
will readily be able to set up his machine correctly, observing that the situa-
tion of the various parts shewn in Fig. 1 is the position that such parts would
be in at starting the first of a course of six movements of the jacquard cylinder
heiein-after described.
Figure 3 shews the parts separately which work the upper set of carriages
which carry the bobbins with the threads, which constitute the warp or thread,
which run longitudinally along the fabric; 7 is the back shaft, which turns in
suitable bearings at the back of the framing of the machine; m is a rod
affixed to the back shaft, as shewn in the Drawing; and n is a connecting rod
connected with the rod m by a moveable joint, the other end of the connect-
ing rod n being attached by a moveable joint to the swinging frame o, which
carries the back and front catch bars which work the upper carriages in the
combs e, which, as before remarked, carry the longitudinal threads or warp of
the intended fabric. p is the cam on the main shaft, which actuates the swinging
frame o, and consequently the catch bars of the upper carriages. q is a rod
affixed to the back shaft l, having a friction roller at its other end, which runs
over the surface of the cam p, and consequently the rod g is raised and lowered;
the back shaft is moved in its bearings, and by means of the rods m, n, the

page_text: ☑
swinging frame o is caused to oscilate, and with it the catch bars; r, r are the
catch bars; the cranked necks at each end turn in holes or bearings in the
connecting links or catch the bar arms s, s, which are attached to the swing
frame o, as will readily be understood by an examination of the Drawing.
t, Fig. 8, is a rod (one at each end of the machine) which has three mortices in
it; the upper one in order to its moving over the axis of the swinging frame o;
the next is in order to allow it to move up and down, notwithstanding the
axle of the shogging wheels passes through it; and the third mortice is to allow
the rod t to move up and down, although it has the main shaft passing through
it. In this Figure 3 I have broken off the rod t into two parts, in order to
shew the cams (and their positions on the main shaft) which controul the
working of the rod t. On the rod t are two friction rollers v, w; the roller v
moving on the cam x, and the roller w moving on the cam y, which cam y is
shewn behind the cam x. By this meaus the rod t is at all times controlled in
its moving up and down by the cams x and y. Nearly at the upper end of the
rod t is attached by a pin joint the connecting rod or link, which connecting
rod by another pin joint is attached to the bar or lever A, the bar or lever A
having a square hole or opening which fits on the neek or axis of the back
catch bar r, in order to turn the back catch bar to permit the same to enter
and leave the nebs of the carriages at suitable times; and c is a tail piece or
inclined surface which is affixed (but capable of adjustment) by a screw on the
bar or lever A. It should be here stated that there is a similar arrangement
at the other end of the machine to actuate the front catch bar in like manner
and at the proper times. Fig. 3 shews the parts in such a position that the
continued motion of the main shaft will cause the swinging frame o to pass-
from back to front. In doing so the neck of the back catch bar will come in
contact with the end framing or standard of the machine or against a set screw
therein and prevent the catch bar going too far into the threads, and the con-
tinued movement of the swinging frame o will by the operation of the bar t
and its cams turn the back catch bar out of the carriages, and then as the
frame o is passing from front to back, the tail picce C comes in contact with
the axle of the swinging frame o and causes the back catch bar to turn into
the nebs, take hold of the carriages, and at the same time the front catch bar
will be leaving the carriages. The swinging of the frame o from front to
back will cause the front catch bar to leave the carriages in like manner, and
the back catch bar will be permitted to fall into the carriages, and by the
continued swing of the frame o the back catch bar will take the carriages into
the back combs. It will therefore be seen that the swinging frame o passes

page_text: from back to front and from front to back at cach revolution of the main
shaft.
I will now describe the manner of applying the properties of the jacquard
loom to the selecting and controlling the manner in which the threads of
bobbin net machinery are thereby caused to be laid or woven into plain or
ornamental weavings. The apparatus which I prefer for the purpose is shewn
in Fig. 1 and also separately in Fig. 4. D is an arm or lever which is affixed
to the shaft or axle E, which axle turns in proper bearings at each end of the
machine, there being an arm or a lever D at each end of the axle or shaft E.
These levers or arms D at their upper ends carry what in a jacquard loom is
called "the cylinder," which, however, is a square box or frame having an
axle which moves in holes or bearings in the lovers or arms D, and on the
axle at one end of the jacquard cylinder is affixed the ratchet wheel F, having
four teeth, and there is also a notched wheel affixed on the same axle into
which the spring G acts, in order to retain the cylinder in the position to
which it is driven, as will be readily understood by examining Figs. 1 and 4.
His a driver moving on a pin or axle as shewn in the Drawing, and I
is a set screw to adjust the position of such driver. J is another set screw,
one at each arm or lever D, to adjust the distance to which the arms or
levers D may fall or be drawn back by the pressure of a spring or by a
weight, which, however, I have not shewn, in order to prevent complexity
of drawing, but the same will be readily added, the object being to cause
the cylinder to be drawn from the front to the back of the machine, when it is
permitted to do so, by the cam K on the main shaft. The cam K, which is
more clearly shewn in Fig. 4, it will be seen, is capable of driving the cylin-
der forward twice in every revolution of the main shaft, and as the cam K
permits it the cylinder is drawn towards the back of the machine; the ratchet
F coming in contact with the driver, which causes the cylinder to move one
fourth round, and bring up a fresh card in like manner to the cylinder of a
jacquard loom, their being points or studs on the surfaces of the cylinder, in
order to hold the cards thereon. The cam K acts on a friction roller K¹,
which turns on an axis affixed on an arm K affixed on the shaft E, as is
shewn in Fig. 4; and thus are the arms or levers D with the jacquard cylinder
forced up twice in every revolution of the main shaft. I have not thought it
necessary in the Drawing to show any number of cards, as the same will
depend on the pattern chosen; and a full description of the manner of per-
forating the cards for varying the fabric or the parts thereof will be hereafter
given. I will only further remark in this place, that the cards are to be made

page_text: of like material to those used in the jacquard loom, and to be joined together
in a similar manner; and it should be understood, that each card may be of the
whole width of the working parts of the machine, or they may be divided into
small portions, in order to offer greater facility for changing patterns and for
varying the combinations of the same patterns in different fabrics, all which
must depend on the judgment of the workman. But I would remark, that in
case the necessary width of cards be made up of several cards, then the drivers
opposite where the joints come, should be slightly bent or cranked, in order
to their not coming between any two cards. The four surfaces of the jacquard
cylinder are either to be grooved or perforated in such manner, that when
uncovered with cards, the cylinder might be driven up without touching or
acting on the lever drivers B, which lever drivers B are shewn separately in
Fig. 5, and are similar in construction to those described in my said former
Specification, excepting that they are adapted to be actuated by cards similar
to those of the jacquard loom by the projecting pieces L, which are either acted
on by the cards, or missed by the perforations in such cards, as the case may
be. These lever drivers work within the spaces between the front bolts, as was
described in my said former Specification; and in order to prevent too much
weakening of the cards, the projections L of the drivers are placed in dif-
ferent positions, the one lower down than the other, so that the drivers, Fig. 5,
being placed alternately, the projections do not come so close as they would if
they were all in the same position, so that there being eleven drivers to the
inch, only five and a half act in one inch of the card on the same line, as will
readily be understood by examining the Drawing; and by making the lever
drivers having the projections L at three different positions, a still less
number of projections will act in the same line of the card. Figure 6
shews the cam and various parts for working the locker M, the axes of
which locker turn in suitable bearings at each end of the machine; the object
of this locker M is, to take hold of those lever drivers B which are selected by
the cards, and to cause those drivers to move the carriages in the spaces of the
front bolts a (in which such drivers work) partly into the back bolts b, c. N
is the cam on the main shaft, which actuates the locker M. It will not be
necessary to enter into a very particular description of the parts which work
the locker M, they being clearly. shewn in Figure 6 in the same position as
they would be in if placed in Fig. 1, and as the positions of the whole of the
parts depend on the revolution of the main shaft, it only requires that the
cam N be affixed in the position shewn in the Drawing, and actuating the
parts as there shewn, to ensure the correct action of this part of the machine.
The object of the locker M is, immediately the cards have selected any of the

page_text: drivers to take such drivers without touching the unselected drivers, and
hence only actuate those threads which are opposite the drivers which are
selected. The locker M is shewn in the position just ready on the continued
rotation of the main shaft, to cause it to take hold of the selected drivers B.
Fig. 7 shows what I call the holding bar, which holds those carriages of
which the drivers are not selected by the cards, and retains those carriages
from moving too far towards the back bolts. P is the cam on the main
shaft for working the holding bar O, which holding bar is carried by the
crank lever O, and by the means of the connecting rod R and the lever
S, the same is caused to rise four times in each revolution of the main shaft,
the holding bar being worked by two similar cams and apparatus, one at each
end. Fig. 8 shows what may be called the front locker T; its manner of
working will be evident on inspecting this Figure, as the parts are shown
separately. The object of this locker T is to take the carriages which are
driven forward by the drivers B, and pass the same into the back bolts 6 and
c, and also to divide the carriages when the shog takes place. The workman
cannot fail to set the parts correctly if he observe the positions at Figs. 1 and
8. On examining the cam U, which works the locker T, it will be found that
it actuates that locker four times at every revolution. Fig. 9 represents the
back locker bar; this locker is similar to those of Morley's, and the cam W
regulates its movement, and actuates it twice in every revolution of the main
shaft. The object of this locker is to divide the carriages when the bolt bars
are shogging, and its motion will readily be traced on examining Figures 1
and 9. Now, as one correct position of all these parts is shewn in Figure 1,
the workman, having all these parts in detail, will readily, by observing the
position of the centres of the various parts, and the correct position of the cams,
put these parts of the machinery together, and as the main shaft is shown
separately, the proper positions of each of the cams will be readily ascertained.
Fig. 10 shews the cams which work the taking-up points, which points, with
the parts which work them, are similar to those used in Morley's rotatory
machine, but they do not dip so deep. I will remark, that in making only
close opaque cloth weavings, it may be found desirable to drive the taking-up
points direct from the main shaft, in order to their motion being three times as
often, but this will be a matter of taste. Fig. 11 represents the parts sepa-
rately which work the stump bar, and Figure 12 shows one end of the stump
bar separately full size, having one lead of stumps arranged according to my
Invention. x, Fig 11, is the cam which throws out the stump points, and the
ram Y lifts the stump points when in, as will readily be seen in Figure 11,
and the position of such stump points in the machine is shewn at Fig. 1,

page_text: which is just below the straight edge, which is affixed under the upper combs e.
The stump bar Z is carried by the arms (1), the axles of which arms are
affixed (but capable of adjustment) to the lever (2), which put out the stump
points by the cam; (3) is the rod which lifts the stump points when they are in,
this rod (3), resting on the lever (4), which is worked by its cam. Fig. 12, as
before stated, represents one end of the stump point bar of the full size; (5) is
a lever which moves on an axis at (6), which axis is affixed to the end framing
of the machine in such manner that the lever (5) stands opposite the end of
the stump bar, and in the stump bar there is a set screw which is caused at all
times to be drawn towards the lever (5) by a spring, not shewn in the Drawing,
and the lever (5) is by suitable cranked lever and rod, as is well understood,
acted on by the shogging wheel (similarly to the bolt bars), which shogging
wheel is shewn separately in the Drawing, and by this means the stump bar is
caused to shog at proper intervals to allow of the carriages to pass between
the proper threads. The stump bar, Figs. 1, 11, and 12, it will be seen, has a
long and short point placed alternately, so that throughout its length there will
be a short point between two long ones, as is clearly shewn on the Drawing at
Fig. 12, and they are of the same guage as the carriages, that is, twenty-two
to the inch. The object of this arrangement is to obtain greater certainty of
the points entering and selecting the proper threads, and this is effected on the
long points entering a short distance, and hence taking between each space
between the long points one thread of those carriages which are in the back
bolts b, c. The stump bar is shogged cne gait of the carriages in the bolts b, c,
to the left, and consequently presses those threads, and hence as the points
proceed to enter the threads from the carriages in the front bolts, and as the
first selected threads are still pressed on by the long points, those threads can
scarcely fail of being correctly guided in single threads between one long point
and one short one. The long points then enter the threads from the carriages
in the front bolts, and so soon as they have entered in a slight degree, the bar
slogs back one gait to the right, and the other side of the long points press
them against those threads last selected, and hence in the further entry of the
points guide into the vacant spaces between the long and the short points. By
this means it will be seen that the points, although of twenty-two to the inch
will act with all the correctness and certainty as if there were but eleven points
to the inch. This arrangement is highly important to the well working of the
machine. On the face of the lever (5) there are three plates or surfaces which
have adjusting screws in order to elevate the several surfaces to adjust the same,
so that the movement caused to the stump bar by its cams will operate to shog
the stump bar as before described in selecting the threads. In the position

page_text: shewn in Fig. 12 the end of the adjusting screw of the stump bar is resting
about the point (7), on the plate (7); this plate is so set that the upper car-
riages will properly enter the thread. The cams working the stump bar cause
it to pass in the direction of the dotted line from the plate (7) to the plate (8),
which is set to cause the long points to enter the threads of the carriages in the
back bolt c; it then falls on to the plate (9), which is one gait of the lower tier
of carriages lower than the plate (8), and in such a position as to cause the long
points to enter the front carriage threads. On to the stump bar Figure 12 is
affixed a finger (10), which proceeds to the end framing of the machine, against
which is affixed an inclined plain in such manner that the finger (or an adjust-
ing screw fixed therein) will come in contact with such inclined plain and raise
or shog the bar one gait whilst the stump bar is passing from (9) to (7) and
the front threads are entering into the short points. The bar then is again
supported by the plate (7). The inclined plain is omitted in the Drawing to
prevent complexity, but will be readily applied by a workman). All which
movement will take place in the going out and coming in of the stumps.
Having thus explained the nature of the machine produced by the com-
bination of the properties of the jacquard loom with parts of ordinary bobbin-
net machinery, it now becomes desirable in some degree to explain the manner
in which the same is to be worked in order to produce the variety of patterns
of plain or ornamental weavings which its capacity will enable the workman to
obtain, depending only on the designing of the cards which regulate the manner
in which the threads shall be laid or woven in the fabric. And in order to
convey the clearest knowledge on this part of the subject which the nature of
the machine will allow, I will select a certain pattern, such as is shown at
Figure 13, (which, though simple, will for the most part be found to contain
all the properties of almost every design however complex), and I will point
out the changes of the working of the machine in order to produce that pattern
in various descriptions of woven fabrics, by which means the workman by a
careful consideration of such description will quickly become sufficiently well
informed to design his cards according to the nature of the weavings he is
desirous of producing, whether the same be plain or ornamental. But before
I describe Figure 13 I will, in the first place, suppose that it is desired to
obtain a plain, close, opaque clothwork by the machine. In order to do so the
cards would not be required to be perforated, but be left solid in all parts,
whereby at every forward movement of the jacquard cylinder it would move
all the drivers, and consequently the threads of the lower set of carriages which
are in the front bolt bar a, and the constant working of the machine, so long as
the cards actuate all the drivers at every movement of the jacquard cylinder,

page_text: will produce a plain clothwork. But, supposing there were openings cut in
the cards for every driver, but each tenth in every other card, the working of
the machine under such circumstances would cause each tenth driver to bo
selected twice as often as all the other drivers; the consequence of which would
be that the cloth produced would have a longitudinal stripe opposito. every tenth
driver so long as every other of the cards are perforated, as just described, (that
is to say) one plain and solid card, which will select all the lever drivers, and
every second card is so perforated as to select only every tenth lever driver,
and these stripes will be caused by there being twice the thickness of weft
threads in a given length to what there will be in the other portion of the
fabric produced. Again, supposing that every tenth driver were missed by the
cards being perforated opposite every tenth driver excepting at every third
card, by this means there would be produced a fabric consisting of a series of
longitudinal plain weavings of clothwork joined together by the traversing
of the threads, there being openings between each crossing of the traversing
threads which will resemble a series of strips of cloth joined together by what:
constitutes the top and bottom crossing of bobbin net. Again, supposing in
place of having the opaque cloth fabric between each tenth driver it were
desired to have bobbin net or lace, and opposite the tenth driver there should
be an opaque or clothwork stripe, in such case none of the cards would be
perforated opposite each tenth driver, and that driver would consequently be
selected at every forward movement of the jacquard cylinder, and the other
portion of the cards would be perforated to miss the whole of the other
drivers. By every first and second card being perforated opposite all those
drivers, every third card should be unperforated so that it would actuate all
the drivers. The fourth and fifth cards would be perforated to miss all the
drivers except every tenth. The sixth card should actuate all the drivers..
By such an arrangement of cards the fabric produced would be a series of
plain weavings, bobbin net, and of plain opaque clothwork stripes opposite
every tenth driver, and it will be evident that in case each such tenth or any
other determined drivers (in place of continuing the stripe throughout the
length of the piece of fabric) cause the stripe of opaque clothwork to be pro-.
duced for the length of only one or more meshes of the lace, the result will be
opaque weavings or spotswherever they are desired.
By the foregoing description the workman in a great measure will have
become acquainted with the extensive capability of the machine, and the great
variety of plain or ornamental weavings it is capable of producing. But in
order more fully to explain the working of the machine, and the necessary
changes which are to be made in the perforating of the cards, I will now ex-

page_text: plain the manner of producing the pattern, Figure 13. I will first describe such
figure woven in opaque clothwork, having the ornamental part thereof produced
of a greater thickness, and in some degree resembling damask weaving. I will
then describe the ornamental part as being made of net or lace in the midst of
a piece of opaque clothwork. I will then describe the ornamental part as being
opaque clothwork in the midst of a piece of net or lace, Figure 13, when
woven to resemble damask weaving, that is, with the ornamental pattern
raised or standing above the other surface of the cloth, is produced in the fol-
lowing manner-The space No. 1 is produced by having the first six cards
unperforated, and consequently actuating all the drivers at each forward move-
ment of the jacquard cylinder. The space No. 2 is produced by having the
six.cards which are used in producing that space alternately unperforated and
perforated (that is to say,) the first card is unperforated, and actuates the
whole of the drivers; the next card is perforated, to miss all the drivers but the
tenth and sixteenth; the third card is unperforated; the fourth perforated, to
miss all but the tenth and sixteenth drivers; the fifth card is unperfo-
rated, and the sixth perforated to miss all but the tenth and sixteenth
drivers. By this means the space No. 2 will be produced. The space
No. 3 is produced by a similar arrangement of six successive cards, but
with the addition of having the eleventh and fifteenth drivers always acted
on by every forward action of the jacquard cylinder, in like. manner to
and together with the tenth and sixteenth drivers. The space No. 4 is
produced by six cards alternately unperforated and perforated, the tenth,
twelfth, fourteenth, and. sixteenth drivers being selected at each coming for-
ward of the jacquard cylinder, the eleventh, thirteenth, and fifteenth-drivers
being missed every other card. The spaces Nos. 5 and 6 are produced by
twelve cards alternately perforated and unperforated, the tenth, thirteenth, and
sixteenth drivers being always selected, and the eleventh, twelfth, fourteenth,
and fifteenth missed-at-every other movement forward of the jacquard
cylinder. The space No. 7 is produced by six cards, the eleventh, thirteenth,
and fifteenth drivers being at all times selected, the tenth, twelfth, and sixteenth
being missed at every other forward movement of the jacquard cylinder. The
space Nos. 8, 9, and 10 are produced by eighteen cards, the twelfth, thirteenth,
and-fourteenth drivers being always selected, and the tenth, eleventh, fifteenth,
and sixteenth missed-by the cards at every other movement. It will not be
necessary to go through the remainder of this figure or pattern, seeing that
the spaces Nos. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17, are produced with similarly per-
forated cards to those which are used for the spaces Nos. 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, and 1,"
as has been fully described; and it will only be desirable to remark that the

page_text: ground which surrounds the pattern thus described, if it be of plain opaque
cloth weaving, the cards are alternately perforated and plain, and actuate all
the drivers at every other forward movement of the jacquard cylinder. In
case it be desired to produce the figure or pattern, Figure 13, with the ground
of plain opaque weaving, as above described, and the pattern woven of open
work, or net, or lace, the only difference in the perforations of the cards for
that purpose will be that those drivers which were at all times selected in the
ormer working (when producing the pattern of a close and thicker texture,
resembling damask,) are now only to be selected by each third and sixth card
of each set of six cards for producing the various spaces from No. 1 to No. 17.
In order to produce the pattern, Figure 18, in opaque clothwork on weavings
of open or bobbin net ground, the arrangement of cards for the ground will be
such that the whole of the drivers are moved by each third and sixth card of
each set of six cards, and missed by the others, and the drivers which produce
the pattern are selected in the order they were when producing the fabric
similar to damask weavings; and in caso such ground of bobbin net weavings
be desired to be further ornamented (in addition to the opaque clothwork
pattern or figure produced therein), by what are called eyelet holes, at any par-
ticular parts thereof, then in such parts the drivers which are opposite thereto
are to be missed at the third card of the set of six cards, by which the crossing
will be omitted, and two holes will run into one of the plain net or lace, and it
will be evident that such eyelet holes may, if desired, be worked round by
opaque clothwork, all which, however, is similar to my former Patent, and is
only mentioned here in order to point out the means of using the properties of
the jacquard loom combined with bobbin net machinery. To make button
holes, that is, a larger description of holes than the eyelet holes, the particular
drivers are to be missed twice or more at the third card of a set of six cards.
The foregoing description will be fully sufficient for an intelligent workman
to vary the product of the machine to almost any extent both in pattern and
quality, and it will be evident that to attempt to describe the full capacity of
the machine would be useless, both as to the nature of the weavings and the
various patterns which can be produced therein. At the same time, in order
to give the fullest information to the workman, I will shortly point out other
classes of fabrics, more particularly the variations to be observed in making
the various named open or lace weavings, which are well known, and produced
in various descriptions of bobbing net machinery, the same being capable of
being produced as the figures or patterns for ornamenting opaque clothwork
weavings, or as ground to be ornamented by various plain and ornamental
weavings, both of opaque clothwork, or open net or lace weaving, in numerous

page_text: combinations, and having so shortly explained these differences, I will then
leave the workman to arrange his designs in the manner he may think most
desirable. In order to make weavings of what is called "Grecian net," so
much of the ornamental figure, or so much of the ground of the fabric which
is to be of Grecian net, being determine: on, the drivers in such case are to
be worked by six cards, as before, for each course of six forward move-
ments of the jacquard cylinder as already described, and in working the
courses, the first and second cards are to be perforated in such manner that
they miss all the drivers. The third card is perforated to miss every other
of the drivers; the fourth and fifth cards miss the whole of the drivers; the
sixth card is unperforated, and therefore actuates all the drivers. The repe-
tition or working of six cards exactly similar to those last described will
completo one row of large holes. The next two courses are worked by having
twelve cards so perforated as to miss those drivers at the third movement,
which were before selected, and to select those drivers which were missed at
such third cards in each of the two courses. The continuing such movements
will produce what is called Grecian net. In order to produce weavings of
what are called "blond or Paris not," the same is to be produced with six
cards for cach course. The first and second cards are perforated to miss all
the divers; the third card actuates the whole of the drivers, it being
unperforated; the fourth, fifth, and sixth of the first course are all perforated
to miss the whole of the drivers, and such is the case of the first and second
cards of the second course. The third card of the second course is unper-
forated, and actuates the whole of the carriages; the fourth and fifth cards
are perforated to miss all the drivers; the sixth card is unperforated, and
actuates all the drivers. For the third course the first, second, third, fourth,
and fifth cards are perforated to miss all the drivers, and the sixth card is
unperforated, and actuates all the drivers. These three courses being suc-
cessively continued will produce what is called weavings of "blond or Paris
net." In case of working the machine in order to produce the plain clothwork
weavings herein first described, the same may be obtained similar to the
descriptions of weavings called "gauze" and "Linaw or Leno," that is, having
a twist put on each pair of threads, which act as warp threads after the weft
has been worked in. This will be accomplished by alternately actuating all
the drivers and missing all the drivers. This is supposing the stump points
are worked as above described, but if the stump bar does not shog them no
such will take place, and the result will be plain weaving.
I will now proceed to describe the second feature of my Invention, which
consist in the application of certain improvements to single tier bobbin net

page_text: machines, and the dispensing with the warp (which is usually employed when
the machinery is intended for making bobbin net), and by the aid of certain
weft threads, and the traversing carriage threads, I am enabled to produce a
woven cloth fabric suitable to the ornamenting of lace by the aid of the needle,
and the cloth woven fabric is such that the threads thereof may be drawn into
open work or form opaque clothwork, depending on the taste and design of the
person working the same into the midst of lace. And in order to explain most
fully the nature of this second part of my Invention I will make choice of an
ordinary Lever's machine suitable for making plain net in breadths, and I
remove the warp beam, and all the warp threads and warp guides, and the
wheels which are usually employed for producing the requisite movements to
the various parts, in order to make bobbin net lace. The machine being in
this condition, I substitute for the wheels taken away the various wheels shewn
in the Drawing; these wheels having their respective names written thereon,
and as the same are marked to indicate their situations on the wheel, shafts, or
axes, it will not be necessary to enter into any further description thereof. I'
use one beam for the selvago threads, one for the weft threads.
Each beam
has its guide bar, and each weft thread guide is so set as to pass (when
working) from selvage to selvage of the breadth, there being one guide and
its weft thread for each breadth. The machine having been put into this
condition, and the particular cut of wheels applied in order to obtain the
objects of my Invention, that of producing a woven fabric by the aid of the
traversing carriage threads with interlaid weft threads and without the ordinary
warp threads in bobbin net single-tier machinery, I proceed to work the
machine in the following manner-Put down the left-foot treadle which
divides the carriages and takes up with the back points and unlocks the frame,
open and close the frame, put down the right-foot treadle which takes up with
the front points, those points being capable of coming down to the heads of the
carriages in order to take up the weft threads, which are at all times thrown
across by the guides when the carriages are divided by the working of the weft
wheel as will be readily traced by an examination of the movements of the
wheels. The putting down of the right foot treadle also unlocks the frame.
Open and close the frame, put down the left foot treadle which takes up the
back points, unlocks the frame, and divides the carriages. Open and close the
frame, put down the right foot treadle which takes up with the front points
and unlocks the frame. Open and close the frame a second time, put down
the left-foot treadle which takes up with the back points, repeat these move-
ments, and the result will be a woven fabric in breadths which may be
distorted in various directions, and drawn again into shape, from which

page_text: circumstances in inlaying portions of such fabrics into lace, the clothwork
being distorted and drawn in various directions by the needle, may be returned
by threads and looping therewith in a variety of openwork and close woven
clothwork, and thus materially saving labour in running or embroidering lace,
and give a greater capability of diversifying the patterns.
In conclusion, I would remark that having fully explained the nature of my
improvements and the means I have pursued for combining the properties of
jacquard looms with bobbin net machinery, I would wish it to be understood
that I do not claim any of the parts separately or combined other than is
hereafter particularly pointed out, and although I have described a particular
description of independent drivers such as are described in my said former
Specification, by which a series of cards (or other suitable perforated sub-
stances) are caused to select threads of bobbin net machinery and regulate the
manner in which they shall be laid or woven to produce plain or ornamental
weavings. At the same time I do not confine myself. to the use of those
drivers only, as variations may be made and yet retain the object of my
Invention, which relates to the selecting and, controlling the manner in which
the threads of bobbin net machinery shall be laid or woven into the fabric.
Nor do I confine myself to the precise arrangement of apparatus for working
the cards (or perforated surfaces) herein described, but the same are the best
I am acquainted with for the purpose of carrying out the objects of my Inven-
tion. And further, I do not confine myself to the precise arrangement of the
lace machinery herein shewn and explained, though I believe the same.com
bined with my improvements to be most suitable for obtaining a machino
possessed of the whole capability of my Invention.-
But I do declare that what I claim as my Invention is,
First, the combining of the properties of jacquard looms with bobbin net
machinery, whereby the cards (or such like perforated substances) are caused
to select any and every of the threads of such latter machinery, and cause the
same to be laid or woven into plain or ornamental-weavings, and-whereby-a-
machine constructed according to my improvements will. partake of the capa-
bilities of both these descriptions of machinery, and enable the workman to
produce a greater variety of weavings, whether plain or ornamental than can
be obtained from either class of machinery uncombined, and also the applica-
tion of this description of machinery of the improved arrangement of stumps
for selecting and dividing the thireads in order to the correct passage of the
upper carriages through them, that is to say, having a long and short stump
alternately placed, and whereby the stump points are so arranged that there is
only one short stump point between two long points, as above described.

page_text: And I do also claim the application of the locker M when used for the
purpose of working or driving the selected drivers and their carriages, as
above described.
And, secondly, I claim the producing (by the aid of my improvements) the
peculiar clothwork fabric in single-tier bobbin net machinery by means of the
traversing carriage threads and weft threads, dispensing with the usual warp,
as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Samuel Draper, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and thirty-six.
Inrolled the Fifteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and thirty-six.