Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Sept., 1890-Accepted, 11th Oct., 1890
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
I, RICHARD NAGLE, of 55 Light Street, Lynn, in the County of Essex, State of
Massachusetts, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates especially to boots and shoes provided with an elastic portion
in their uppers, whereby they may readily conform to the movements of the foot;
and it consists in certain novel features hereinafter fully set forth the object being
to produce a simpler, cheaper and more effective device of this character than is now
in ordinary use.
The nature and operation of the improvement will be readily understood by all
conversant with such matters from the following explanation.
In the accompanying drawings,
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe provided with my improvement;
Figure 2 is a plan view, the inner sole of the shoe being represented as broken away
and the upper turned outward to show the elastic sheet.
Figure 3 a transverse section taken on line, zx, in Figure 1,
Figure 4 an underside plan view showing the portion of the upper attached to the
elastic sheet.
Figure 5 a view illustrating certain details of construction, and
Figure 6 a sectional view illustrating a modification in the manner of attaching the
elastic sheet.
Like letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the different figures of the
drawings.
A represents the boot or shoe upper; B the sole, and C the insole. To the lower
edge of the lining 6, of the upper between the shank and toe portions thereof, a small
sheet of elastic material, d, is attached by means of sewing or cementing and forms
a part of said lining. The lining is then attached to the upper at the top in the
ordinary manner.
At or opposite the portion of the lining formed by the elastic sheet, the outer
material of the upper is folded to form one or more loose longitudinally arranged
plaits, f, and is stitched at g on each side of said plaits to the elastic sheet. When
lasted onto the sole in the usual manner and secured by tacks i, (see Figure 3),
said plaits are disposed on the outer face of said insole near its edge.
The outer sole, B, is secured to the insole C, by stitches p, in the usual way, said
stitches passing through the upper A, and inner edge of the elastic sheet, d. The
plnit, f, in the finished shoe is thus disposed outside the sole-stitches, p, and is
concealed between the soles C and B.
In use the plait permits the upper to spread as the elastic sheet, d, is distended
by the pressure of the foot of the wearer. This prevents the upper from binding the
foot across the toes and ball, said upper readily conforming to the movements of the
muscles of the foot. As soon as released, the elastic sheet draws the plait inward
between the soles again, where it is concealed.
My improved boot as thus constructed has the general appearance of an ordinary
boot.
The leather or other material of which the upper is constructed is alone exposed to
view, and the plait, f, therein is entirely concealed between the soles when the foot is
at rest.
Any elastic material may be employed for the sheet, d, and it may be attached to
the lining in any suitable manner. The device is also equally as well adapted for
ase with boots or shoes wherein the soles are attached by pegs instead of stitches, as
described.

page_text: The use of the elastic sheat at one or both sides the boots, by enabling the upper
to conform readily to the shape and movements of the foot, tends to provent said
apper from stretching and renders it much more perfect in fit.
do not confine myself to attaching the elastic mi terial to the lining between the
toe and shank portions, as it may, if desired, be attacred directly to the shank portion
to relieve the binding of the upper, over the instep, nor do I confine myself to
employing any specific number of plaits in the upper.
.np
In Figure 6, the elastic shoot d is shown secured by one edge at g to the inner face
of the upper, the lining terminating at said sheet and f blind-stitched to said upper
at that point. When the upper is lasted on to the insole, the operator forms the plait,
by pushing the loather or other material of the upper outward against the seam g.
The stitches p securing the soles together, pass through the elastic sheet and complete
the fold or plait which is thus disposed in the same po tion as above specified. This
obviates the necessity of sewing the elastic sheet to ti lining and then attaching it
by two rows of stitches g to the material of the apper, considerably lessening the
cost of construction while effecting the same result. If desired, the lining and
upper may be conjointly folded to form the plait, and the elastic sheet disposed
across said plait on the inner face of the lining an attached to the upper, as
described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
:-
First. A bool or shoe having a fold or plait arranged in its upper between the too
and heel portions thereof, said plait being disposed between the soles outside the sole
seam and an elastic short secured to the inner face of the upper across said plait,
substantially us, and for the purposes, set forth.
Second. A boot or shoe having a fold or plait in its upper concealed between the
soles, said upper at the outer side of said plait being socured to an elastic sheet attached
to the lining and said sheet and upper being secured to the sole by the sole-seam at the
opposite side of said plait, substantially as described.
Dated this 5th day of Sontember 1890.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.