An Improved Device for Drafting Patterns for Garments.
Year: 1898

page_text: An Improved Device for Drafting Patterns for Garments.
I, MARGARETHE SEIDEL, Dress Maker, of Leipzig, Salomonstrasse 18r, in the
Empire of Germany, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to an improved device, by means of which it is possible to
easily draft bodice, coat or the like patterns which will correctly fit any figure, and
by the use of the device the measurement usually taken on the body are not
necessary.
For this purpose the device for drafting the pattern is made in such a manner
that its single parts can be adjusted according to the form and size of the body.
In the annexed drawing :-Fig. 1 shows the device laid flat and adjusted so as to
fit a thin figure. Fig. 2 shows the device in a similar position and adjusted for a
stout figure. Fig. 3 is a side view of the device in the flat position. Fig. 4 is a
side view of the device adjusted on a thin figure. Fig. 5 is a front view of Fig. 4.
Fig. 6 is a back view of Fig. 4. Fig. 7 is a side view of the device adjusted on a
stout figure. Fig. 8 is a front view of Fig. 7. Fig. 9 is a back view of Fig. 7.
Fig. 10 shows the method of connection for the adjustable rails or rod. Fig. 11 is a
cross section of Fig. 10.
The device is composed of a number of bands or rods or the like which are capable
of being lengthened or shortened so that they are adjustable with regard to one
another in different manners by which means the size of the device is enlarged or
contracted. Of these the rods A and A¹ respectively form or coincide with the
iniddle of the front and the middle back of the bodice or coat.
The curved rods C and C¹ form respectively the lateral opening for the neck and
the arm hole, so that the rods B1 B2 form when the device is adjusted on the figure
the line of the seam starting from the arm hole downwards.
The neck and armhole rods C C¹ are connected by the shoulder rod D, which
consists of two parts the one displaceable within the other and this rod D forms
the basis for the proper adjustment of the device on the body.
According to the size and form of the figure, the displacement of the rods of the
device between one another is so effected so that after having properly adjusted all
the rods the correct pattern of the bodice obtained and the adjusted device is
immediately laid flat and can be used for drafting the pattern.
For adjoining the cut of the hips each part produced is to be enlarged successively
according to the case.
For fitting round backs the pieces or rods E and E¹ can be provided which are
detachable from one another.
These rail pieces are adjusted in such cases singly and independently from one
another, so that, as shown in Fig. 1, when drafting the pattern the round place of
the back can be marked specially on the fabric, as shown by the dotted line a.
In order to be able to read off easily measurements for the neck and waist, there
are provided the neck and waist measuring bands 6 and 6¹ provided with measure-
CD 031

page_text: ment divisions or scales. Set screws or the like may be used for holding the parts
of the rods in the adjusted position.
The device can be used in the most various manners, so that the patterns can be
easily altered according to the prevailing fashion.
The device can be made of various materials and sizes.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
An improved device adjustable on the human body for drafting bodice or the like
patterns which is constituted of a number of adjustable rods or the like of which A A¹
form or coincide with the middle of the front and of the back of the bodice respectively
whilst by means of the curved rods C. C¹ together with the shoulder rod D, the
adjustment for the neck and, arm hole is made and in which the pieces E E¹
detachable from one another serve for the adjustment suitable for round back sub-
stantially as and for the purpose set forth.
HERBERT HADDAN & Co.,
Agents to Applicant, 18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London.