IMPROVEMENTS IN DYEING OB STAINING VARIOUS KINDS OF FABRICS
Year: 1844

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, LOUIS
JOSEPH-WALLERAND, of Basing Lane; in the City' of London, Merchant, send
greeting:
WHEREAS Her présent most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Thirtieth day. of December, in the eighth year of Her reign,
did; for Herself; Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Louis Joseph Wallérand, Her especial licence, full. power, sole privilege
and authority, that I, the said Joseph Wallerand; my executors, adminis-
trators; adiñiors, and assigns, and such others as I, the said Louis Joseph
Wallerand; my executors, adiñors; or assigns; should at any time agree with,
and no others; from time to time and at all times during the term of years
therein mentioned, should and lawfully might make, use; exercise, and vend,
within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and in all Her
Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, and in the Islands of Guernsey,
Jersey, Alderney, Sark, and Man, an' Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN DYEING
OB STAINING VARIOUS KINDS OF FABRICS;" being a. cómmunication from a
Foreigner residing abroad; in which said Letters Patent' is contained a
provisó
obliging me the said Louis Joseph Wallerand, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of
the said Invention, and in: what manner the same is to be performed, and to
cause the same to be inrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery

page_text: within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in
part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto
had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Louis Joseph Wallerand, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following description thereof, reference
being had to the Drawings hereunto-annexed, and to the letters and figures
marked thereon (that is to say):-
This Invention consists in giving shaded stripes of color to woollen, silk,
cotton, or other fabrics, by the employment of a peculiar arrangement of
machinery, which produces the effect in a more expeditious, economic, and
perfect manner than by the ordinary hand process. This machine may also be
used for dying shaded stripes to form a ground upon fabrics intended afterwards
to receive a printed pattern. The machinery by which the shaded stripes of
color are given to the cloth or other fabric will be understood by reference to
the accompanying Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a longitudinal elevation of the
machine, Fig. 2 a plan or bird's-eye view, and Fig. 3 a transverse vertical section
taken in the line 1...2, of Fig. 2. A is the wooden framework which supports
a vat C containing the dyeing liquor. B, B, is a steam pipe running along the
bottom of the vat for heating the dyeing liquor. D and D' are brackets affixed
at each end of the machine, and furnished with slots, in which the axes of
wooden rollers or cloth beams J and J' work. E are a series of bars (made
of either wood or metal) which serve as bearings for a series of wheels or
rollers F. G are a similar series of bars placed below the bars E, and are for
the purpose of carrying the wheels or rollers F', which correspond in size and
position with the rollers F. These bars E and G rest upón cross pieces at the
ends of the vat C. The Drawing represents each pair of rods as carrying
.eight wheels only, but the number may be increased or diminished as may be
thought necessary, according to the nature of the fabric to be dyed. The
upper and lower series of wheels or rollers F and F¹ are made either of wood or
metal, and are mounted loosely on their axles. H is a roller covered with felt
or other material, and mounted in slotted bearings at the end of the dye vat C.
This roller is intended to take up the color from the vat and to distribute it
upon the surface of the cloth. I is a lever or handle for raising the roller H
so that it may come in contact with the fabric. By this means those parts of
the fabric are dyed which would otherwise not have received any color. When
a sufficient depth of color is thus obtained, the roller H is depressed by means
of the lever I, and thrown out of contact with the cloth. J and J' are cloth

page_text: beams, upon which the fabric is wound before and after it is passed between
the wheels F. K and K' are wooden vessels at either end of the vat, for the
reception of any portion of the dye which may fall from the fabric wound on
the beams J and J. L is a pipe furnished with a stopcock for the entrance
of the steam into the pipe B; its escape is regulated by the pipe and cock M.
N, N, are cog wheels mounted respectively on the axles of the cloth beams J
and J', for the purpose of receiving motion from any convenient gearing, and
conveying it to the cloth beams. O. are cross pieces serving to support the
fabric while being passed through the machine. In order to produce shaded
stripes by this machine, the fabric, which is first wound upon the beam J', is
passed from that beam between the upper and lower wheels or rollers F
and F, when it is taken up by the other beam J, to which rotary motion is
now communicated for that purpose. The fabric, when put in motion, turns
the lower wheels, which are partially immersed in the dyeing liquor, and also
the upper wheels which press upon the fabric. The lower wheels F', the
peripheries of which are covered with felt or other similar material, by their
rotary movement take up a portion of coloring matter, and deposit it upon the
fabric. By this means the fabric is well charged with color in those parts
which passed between them, and are in contact with the wheels, and on
being wound on to the beam J, the color spreads by capillary attraction,
and forms the required gradation of tint. This operation is to be
repeated by reversing the motion of the cloth beams until the required
depth of color is obtained for the stripes. The roller H may then be
raised so as to blend the lighter shades of the stripes together, as before
mentioned, by giving a tinge of color over the whole surface of the fabric;
this may be repeated one or more times, according to the quality of the lightest
shade which may be required; or if the shades are intended to be distinct, as
will be the case when two or more colors, as hereafter explained, the roller H
will not be used. In order to produce the stripes at greater or less distances
apart it is only necessary to increase or diminish the number of bars E and G,
and wheels F and F¹. The width of the machine may of course be varied
according to the width of the fabric to be dyed. When fabrics of a thin
texture, such as gauze, lace, &c. are to be dyed, the number of rollers may be
diminished as a sufficient quantity of the coloring matter will more quickly be
taken up and penetrate the fabric. In order to ensure a perfect production of
the shaded stripes upon both sides of thick fabrics, such as flannels, felted
cloth, &c., a modified arrangement of the above-described apparatus, as shewn
at Figs. 4, 5, and 6, is employed, by which means a portion of dyeing liquor is
deposited in stripes upon the upper surface of the cloth, as well as on the

page_text: under surface, as above described. Fig. 4 is a longitudinal elevation of the
machine; Fig. 5, a plan view of the same; and Fig. 6, a vertical section,
taken in the line 3....4, of Fig. 5. The addition consists of a vessel Q, Q,
containing dyeing liquor which is kept heated by a steam pipe R. S, .S, are a
series of cocks attached to the bottom of the vessel,Q, and are intended to
supply a limited quantity of dyeing liquor to a series of small delivering wheels
or rollers T, T, at distances apart equal to the wheels F. The construction of
the cocks and their attachment with the rollers will be clearly seen by refer-
ring to the enlarged sectional view, Fig. 6.* U, U, are rods attached severally
at bottom to the plug of each cock, and connected at top to a horizontal
bar V, the forward and backward motion of which causes the cocks.to open
and close as required, and thus the quantity of liquor supplied to the rollers T
may be regulated. The manner of working this machine is as follows:-The
fabric is first passed between the upper and lower rollers F and F, where its
under surface receives the dye which penetrates into the cloth; the cocks are
then opened to the extent required by moving the bar V, and the fabric as it
passes under the rollers T is supplied on its upper surface with the dyeing
liquors, which flows from the vessel Q through the cocks S, S, on to the
rollers T. It is sometimes necessary (when operating with certain dark
colors) to apply the coloring liquor to the fabric at a boiling heat; in such
cases the rollers T are displaced, and sponge is applied to the ends of the
tubes which descend from the cocks. This sponge, when brought in contact
with the fabric, will convey the liquor direct to its surface, and consequently
prevent the possibility of the liquor prematurely cooling, as would be the case
if the rollers were employed..
This Invention of obtaining stripes of shaded color may be further modified
by the application of two or more dye vats containing different colors. The
arrangement of the rollers will be as represented at Fig. 7, in which the rollers
of the vat containing the yellow color are placed so as to intercept the spaces
which the rollers in the vat containing the red dye have left on the fabric.
Having now described the Invention communicated to me, I would remark
that many slight alterations in the construction of the machinery might be
shewn; for instance, I might use a series of rollers mounted on one axle, and
place any required number of such axles and rollers across the machine,
instead of employing the longitudinal rails E and G, and the independant
wheels or rollers mounted therein. In some cases, also, it may be found
desirable to heat the liquor in the vat by the direct action of the fire instead
of employing the arrangement of steam pipes, as shewn in the Drawing; I
therefore do not restrict my claim to the peculiar arrangement of apparatus

page_text: shewn for effecting the shaded stripes of color. But I claim the mode of varie-
gating with shaded stripes silk, cotton, woollen, and other fabrics by the
employment of a series of wheels or rollers which dip into the dye vat or vats,
as above described, for the purpose of taking up a portion of color, and dis-
tributing it in lines upon the fabric; and, secondly, the method described
with reference to Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 6*, whereby the color is supplied,
through the medium of either rollers, or of sponge or other similar absorbent
substance, to the surface of fabrics, and thus a variegated or shaded surface
is produced.
In witness whereof, I, the said Louis Joseph Wallerand, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Fourth day of June, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-five.
LOUIS JOSEP (L.B.) WALLERAND.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the same Fourth day of June, in
the year above mentioned, the aforesaid Louis Joseph Wallerand, came before
our Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained, in form above written.
And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the tenor of
the Statute in that case made and provided.