IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF DRESS PINS AND OTHER DRESS FASTENINGS, AND ORNAMENTS
Year: 1850

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
ROWLEY, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Royal
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Thirtieth day of November, in the fourteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Charles Rowley, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, Her especial licence,
full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said Charles Rowley,
my exors, admors, and assigns, and such others as I, the said Charles Rowley,
my exors, admors, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times hereafter. during the term of years therein
mentioned, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my. Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF DRESS PINS AND OTHER DRESS
FASTENINGS, AND ORNAMENTS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a
proviso, that I, the said Charles Rowley, shall cause a particular description
of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed;, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, to be enrolled
in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent,
as in and by the same, reference.being thereunto had, will more fully and at
large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Charles Rowley, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and

page_text: the manner in which the same is to be performed, are particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being
had to the Drawing hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked
thereon (that is to say):-
My Invention consists, first, in a new mode of protecting the points of
pins of brooches, but which is applicable also to protecting the points of
other pins.
.
Secondly, in the mode of putting together that description of button known
as Maltese buttons, as well as buttons formed of a top shell and back plate,
without the use of solder, which effects a great saving of time, and the finished
button much improved.
Thirdly, in using the same description of tools for the cutting out,
ornamenting, and piercing at one operation the top and bottom shells of
such buttons, such tools having been. fully described in a Patent granted to
me by Her most gracious Majesty on the Twenty-eighth day of August, One
thousand eight hundred and forty-eight, for the purpose of cutting out and
piercing the holes in trowser buttons at one operation with a common fly
press.
Fourthly, in the mode of forming and attaching a wire loop to such buttons
when they are being used on waistcoats, so that they can be easily applied or
removed, imparting a greater amount of freedom and ease in the operation of
buttoning and unbuttoning.
Fifthly, in a mode of retaining the buttons in waistcoats by means of a
small circular wire bolt working between two circular metal plates, a part of
which plates are cut away to receive the shank of the button.
Sixthly, in the mode of making metal or other shirt studs, with a spring
wire loop at the back, capable of being removed at pleasure.
Seventhly, in another mode of making shirt studs with a spring snap made
from metal plate.
Eighthly, in a mode of making studs or fasteners by means of a shank
formed or placed on the back plate, which shank coming through the shirt
front, a plain or ornamental pin may be placed in it, affording great security.
The back plate may be secured, if desirable, to the inner flap of the shirt by
being sewn on. For most purposes this fastening will be found most efficient
where security and simplicity of action is desirable.
Ninthly, in the modes of protecting the points of brooch pins, and also
in the manner of uniting the pins to the front plates or shells of such
brooches.

page_text: Figure 1 represents a shawl pin, with the point protected. The sheath or
clip may be made of a narrow strip of hardened metal, the parts clipping the
pin being hollowed out for that purpose. Figure 2 represents the same
description of clip applied to common pins, in a front edge and separate view;
this clip or point protector may be made of drawn wire, with a hollow or
groove on one side. Figure 3 represents my mode of putting together shell.
buttons. This Drawing is made considerably larger than the usual size of
such buttons, for the purpose of better defining the means by which I effect.
this object. A and B are the top and bottom shells, as cut from a plate;
C a side view of the bottom as finished; D a section of the same; E repre-
sents the shank in its first form, from the wire of which it is composed and
drawn, of a half-round shape, the two planes coming together forming a
round. F represents the same part as having undergone the operation of
heading, a common and well-known process; G represents a raised cap, best
seen in the section H. This cap is placed on the head of the shank,, and
closed in around the neck, and receives the form given to it in the section. D,
which also shews how the shells are held together, which is by opening the
shank at. D' until it assumes the form shewn at C¹; the parts of the button
are then secure and finished. In this manner may the parts of other
ornamental buttons be put together; and I make the perforated ornamental
blanks of which such buttons are formed by punching them out by a series
of dies, combined and used together as was described in my said former
Patent. Figure 4 represents a loop as attached to a vest button, the button
being shewn in dotted lines; J is the same loops without heads formed at the
enils of the wire, as seen at I, I. Figure 5 represents another mode of
securing vest buttons. L is a front view, with the buttons shewn in dotted
lines; M, a section; and N, a circular bar or bolt that works around and
passes through the shank of the button in securing it to the vest. The
nib L assists with the finger nail to move around the bolt, as required. The
back and front plates are held together by a raised part in the centre of
the back plate passing through the front plate, and thrown over in the
manner metal eyelets are applied. In Figure 6, O represents, the back side
of the front part of a stud with a hollow neck; P, a spring wire loop, the
shank of which fits into the same; and Q, an edge view of the stud complete,
with the loop attached. Figure 7 represents another mode of making shirt
studs. R and R¹ are edge views of the front and back of the stud-detached;
S and S represents thein united; T is a plan or top view of the back part,

page_text: TT forming a spring which clips the stud by the neck of the shank. The
spring may also be applied to 'the front instead of the back part of the stud,
as shewn at T, T, T; and Tin the same-Figure.
.:
Figure 8 represents another möde of securing the fronts of shirts. Utand.
U is a disc of metal with a sbank formed out of the same. The shank-
having been passed through the front. of the shirt, the arrow or arrows, as
here shewn, are put through the shanks, and the shirt secured in the most
perfect manner. The arrows can be united by a chain, as here drawn, to
make the fastening more ornamental and to prevent the arrows from turning
round or being lost. As may be seen, any other suitable form. may be given
to the arrow or pin; the shank may also be formed in various ways, and the
circular form departed from; as at V in this Figure; the holes being introduced
for the purpose of sewing it to the shirt, which may be desirable in: some
instances.'
Ax
Figure 9 shows the applicability of this fastening to other purposes.
and B may represent the back of a lady's dress, C*, C*, &c. are intended to
fit over the shank V₁, V₁, &c. The required pins are here seen as attached
to a piece of tape at D*; D*, &c. It must be evident that when those pins
are passed through the corresponding shanks a very secure fastening is
obtained, giving this great desideratum, viz., that when the wearer is desirous
of unfastening the back of the dress, she has only to pull the top end of the
tape and the dress will be unfastened throughout the series. E* represents
the parts put together, and F* shews that the holes can be placed in a
contrary direction if desirable. Figure 10 represents the same fastening as
made of common wire. The form of pin, as shewn at G*, may be the most
desirable, as better calculated to remain firm in the shank.
Figure 11 represents one of my modes of attaching pins to metal brooches
and protecting the points without the use of solder, by which great economy
and convenience in use are effected. * is the front of a brooch.in the flat;
*I*, the pin detached; J*, an edge view of a finished brooch, and K* a back
view of the same with the pin secured under the guard.
Figure 12 is another form of brooch in which the mode of uniting the pin
differs from that shown in the last Figure, but the parts are shewn in the
"same position.
Figure 13 represents another mode of attaching the pin, and L* shows
that I sometimes file away part of the projection caused by the necessary
'hollow on the inside of the shield for holding the pin, as shown at M*.
Figure 14 shows the same principle applied to the back of an oval brooch.
N*. is the back in the flat; O* an edge view of the same bent into form and

page_text: the pin attached; Px, a plan of the same, aud Q* an end view shewing the
part R*, to which the pin is attached. Figure 15 shows how I attach the
pin and protect the point when the brooch is required to be made with a rim
either square, round, or oval, as here shewn.
Figure 16 represents another mode of protecting the points of brooch pins,
the sheath being formed of tube, which may be slid out, and in covering the
point of the pin, making a very secure fastening. T* is the back or under-
side of the brooch with the point secured; U* shews the same view of the
brooch with the sheath drawn out, and V* represents an edge view of the
brooch with the pin in the same position, clearly shewing how the pin may be
lifted out. I sometimes apply the sheath to cameo and other fancy brooches,
and in that case the part in which the sheath slides may be soldered on.
Figure 17 represents another mode of protecting the points of brooch pins.
A being a front view of a brooch, B a back view, and C² an edge view of
the same.
The point being protected by a sheath, out of which a strap is
formed which slides along the back of. the brooch, and is acted upon by means
of the stud or knob D', which may be made of an ornamental form, entirely
covering the slot in which it works, or it may be moved by the sheath itself,
which, with the front of the brooch, may be ornamented in any way taste or
fashion may dictate.
Figure 18 represents another mode of protecting the points of brooch pins.
E2 is a front view of a fancy brooch with the sheath F in the place for
protecting the point at the back; G is a back view of the brooch with the
sheath down; and H a side or edge view of the same; 12 is a piece of wire
secured to the back of the brooch, and continued down in the sheath and
returns, as shewn by the dotted lines, and terminates in a knob J2 forming
a spring. When the point is to be secured it must be brought in the
direction of the dotted lines, and the sheath Fs must be pushed up into its
position covering the point by the projection shewn at L2, and the niche M²
will catch into the top of the sheath, holding it firmly in its place, but which
can easily be relieved by pressing on the knob J; N2 is an edge view of the
brooch with the sheath in its place for protecting the point.
Having thus described the nature of my Inventions, and the manner in
which the same are to be performed, I wish it to be understood that I
claim,-
First, the mode of protecting the points of pins, as exhibited at Figures 1
and 2.
Secondly, the mode of making and putting together the description of

page_text: buttons, known as Maltese, without solder, as also the application of the same
mode to the making of other description of fancy buttons.
Thirdly, the cutting out, stamping, and piercing at one operation with a
common fly press the shells of such buttons.
Fourthly, the form of loop for holding in vest buttons, as shewn at
Figure 4.
Fifthly, the loop or lock represented at Figure 5, either made plain or
ornamental.
Sixthly, the modes of attaching spring loops to shirt studs, as shewn at
Figures 6 and 7.
Seventhly, the mode of securing the fronts of shirts, as shewn at Figure 8.
Eighthly, the application of this fastening to any other parts of dress, such
as exhibited at Figure 9, made either of sheet metal or of wire, as at
Figure 10.
Ninthly, the mode of applying the pins to brooches with or without solder,
as shewn at Figures 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17.
Tenthly, protecting the points of brooch pins by forming a sheath with or
without the aid of solder, as shewn in the same Figures.
And, lastly, protecting the points of brooch pins, as shewn at Figure 18,
whether made of this or any other pattern.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Rowley, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of May, One thousand eight hundred
1.
Enrolled the Thirtieth day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-one.