Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Jan., 1889
Specification Accepted, 23rd Feb., 1889
A communication from abroad by THE WARDWELL SEWING MACHINE COMPANY,
Incorporated, of the City of New York, United States of America.
1, PHILIP MIDDLETON JUSTICE of 55 and 56 Chancery Lane in the County of
Middlesex Fellow of the Institute of Patent Agents do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The invention relates to that class of sewing machines adapted to employ .two
threals-an apper and under thread-in the formation of the stitches; and it consists
in the novel structure hereinafter fully set forth.
To clearly explain the invention reference is made to the accompanying drawings
in which:
Figs. 1 to 8 inclusive are diagrams in perspective and side elevation, illustrating
the operation of the sewing and feeding instrumentalities and the manner in which
the stitches are formed; and-
Figs. 9 and 10 are sectional views illustrating the looped and formed stitch and the
position the loops occupy between the two surfaces of the fabric.
Fig. 11 is a side elevation of a machine embodying the present improvements.
Fig. 12 is an enlarged side elevation of the major portion of the machine looking
from the opposite side of that shown in Fig. 11.
Fig. 13 is an enlarged plan view.
Fig. 14 is an enlarged horizontal section taken on the line a a of Fig. 11.
Fig. 15 is an enlarged side elevation of the instrumentalities supported at the
forward end of the overhanging arm of the machine and the upper portion of
the horn, showing particularly the needle, thread carriers, loop holder, and
deflector

page_text: 15
Fig. 16 is a horizontal section of the same taken on the line bb, of Fig. 15, the
horn being omitted.
Fig. 17 is a front elevation of the instrumentalities supported at the forward end of
the overhanging arm on a scale somewhat reduced from that of Figs. 15 and 16.
Fig. 18 is an enlarged front elevation of the lower portion of the instrumentalities
shown in Fig. 17.
Fig. 19 is an enlarged cross sectional elevation through the overhanging arm taken
on the line cc, of Fig. 11.
Fig. 20 is an enlarged horizontal section taken on the line d d, Fig. 11, showing
particularly the carrier H and the awl driving lever.
Fig. 21 is a vertical section taken on the line ee, of Fig. 17, showing particularly
the devices for raising the presser foot bar, and-
Fig. 22 is a horizontal section of the same taken on the lino f of Fig. 21.
Fig. 23 is an enlarged sectional elevation of the upper portion of the swinging
frame G and the horn.
Fig. 24 is a perspective view of the horn, its case being removed to expose its
thread carrier and deflector.
Fig. 25 is a front elevation of a portion of the horn and its thread carrier and
deflector.
Fig. 26 is a cross sectional clovation taken centrally through the take up disc I in
Fig. 28, and--
Fig. 27 is an elevation of said disc looking at one end of its central slot.
Fig. 28 is a rear elevation; and-
Fig. 29 a plan view of the cams upon the main driving shaft and their immediate
connections.
Fig. 30 is a sectional elevation of one of the pivotal connections between a pair of
levers or a lever and rod.
Before describing the parts of the machine which impart movement to those devices
which operate directly upon the material to be sewed and upon the threads, the
construction and operation of the said devices in connection with the material and
thread will be described, referring for this purpose to the diagrammatic views Figs. 1
to 10.
The fabric to be sewed is designated by X, and is shown in section in Figs. 1 to 5,
9 and 10, in order to illustrate the effects of the awl and positions of the threads, the
section being on the line of stitching, and the work plate 2 is represented as being
supported by a hollow case A in the form of a horn, within which are arranged a
reciprocating thread carrier 3, and a vibrating thread deflector 4, that is pivoted to
the carrier to reciprocate therewith, the carrier having an eye 5 for the passage of the
thread which is conducted from below, through suitable guides from the wax pot as
set forth hereinafter. The work plate has a central opening 6, and above the work
plate are supported the awl B, needle C, upper thread carrier D, and loop holder E,
(see Figs. 6, 7 and 8).
The awl B is carried by an awl bar 7, which has a vertically reciprocating motion,
and which moves back and forth in the direction of the double arrow 1, Fig. 1, as
does also the needle bar 8, and both the awl and the needle bar have also a reciprocating
movement at right angles to the line of the movement indicated by the arrow 1 in a
direction parallel to the line of the stitching.
The thread carrier D carries the upper thread y, and has two eyes through which
the said thread is passed, and is curved to correspond substantially with a circle
constituting the fulcrum of an arm 9 which supports the carrier, and at the outer side
of the carrier near the point is a notch 10, for the purpose described hereinafter. The
loop holder E (Figs. 6, 7 and 8) is carried by an arm 11, which rocks around a vertical
axis so as to carry the loop holder in a curved path at about right angles to that of
the thread carrier D.
Assuming that the above described devices have operated to perform a part of a
line of stitches, that one stitch is complete, the lower thread & extending upward from
the
eye 5 of the lower thread carrier 3, past the hook of the deflector 4, which is in

page_text: the position shown in Fig. 1, and that the upper thread also extends from the
carrier D to the fabric, the operations of formning an additional stitch will be as
follows: The awl B will be carried to the right to a point distant from the preceding
stitch equal to the length of the new stitch, and will then descend until its point
penotrates the fabric for a short distance, as shown in Fig. 1.
The awl is carried into the fabric sufficiently far to cause the fabric to adhere
frictionally to the awl when the latter is lifted for a short distance on the next
movement, which is effected for slightly raising the fabric for relieving its pressure
upon the work plate 2, thereby reducing the frictional resistance to the feeding of the
fabric, which is now effected by the movement of the awl in a line at right angles to
that indicated by the arrow 1, until the awl is vertically above the opening 6 in the
work plate. The awl now descends completely through the fabric into the opening of
the work plate far enough to make the desired opening for the passage of the needle,
after which the awl ascends until its point is above the fabric. The awl and needle
then move back in the line of the arrow 1, until the needle is directly above the awl
hole, when the needle descends through the fabric.
Prior to the entrance of the needle into the opening in the fabric the deflector 4 is
swung to the left in the direction of the arrow as shown in Fig. 3, carrying the lower
thread away from the lower carrier to the position shown, and after the needle has
descended to its full extent the carrier and deflector together are moved forward in
the direction of the arrow Fig. 4, thereby carrying the transverse portion of the
thread a into the notch of the needle.
As the needle ascends it draws a loop of the thread & upward through the opening
in the fabric as shown in Fig. 5, and above the same as shown in Fig. 6, when the
movement of the needle is arrested and the upper thread carrier D swinging in
the direction of the arrow Fig. 6, penetrates the loop of thread carrying with it the
upper thread y, the loop holder E then swinging to the right passes below the upper
thread carrier D through the notch 10 and between the thread carrier D and thread y,
to hold it, the notch 10 enabling it to pass over the thread y without catching the
latter.
The upper carrier D now swings in the direction of the arrow Fig. 7, leaving a
loop of the upper thread y upon the holder E, and extending through the loop of the
lower thread as shown in said figure after which the needle C moving both down-
ward and forward to the position shown in Fig. 8, disengages itself from the loop of
thread, the loop holder E holding the thread y until the take-up (hereinafter
described) has drawn the loop of the thread a down to the surface of the fabric, when
it will move back disengaging itself from the loop of said thread y. Thus the
thread is drawn downward into the fabric as in Fig. 9, holding the loop thread y in
a doubled loop and being further drawn downward carries it into the fabric the two
loops being finally locked together between the faces of the fabric as shown in Fig. 10,
forming a stitch of the character illustrated.
It will be evident that different mechanism may be employed for imparting the
above described series of operations to the awl, needle and thread carriers, and that
the lower thread may be deflected by different means to those described, so as to hold
it in position to carry it into the notch of the needle, the means however to be now
described for effecting these results have been found to be very effective in practical
operation.
The operating parts are supported by a frame consisting of a hollow standard F,
(Figs. 11 and 12) enlarged at the lower end to constitute a suitable base and extended
at the upper end to form an arm 13, and having lateral arms 214 and 215, between
which is pivoted the frame G that supports the horn A, the latter extending upward
and over the arm 214, to hold the work plate 2 with its central opening in a line with
the axis of the frame G.
The needle bar 8 and the awl bar 7 are fitted to slide vertically in bearings in a
movable carrier H, which is a movable hinged portion of the arm 13, the said movable
portion being connected to the body of the arm by a vertical pivot 14, as shown in Figs. 11,
13 and 14, upon which pivot, the carrier swings back and forth to carry both the

page_text: needle and the awl to and from the remaining fixed portion of the arm 13. This
lateral movement of the carrier is imparted by the longitudinal reciprocation of a
wedge 15, carried by a bar 16 connected with a lever 17 pivoted to a stud 18 upon
the standard and the said lever 17 is reciprocated by a cam upon the driving shaft 19,
in a manner too apparent to need description.
The wedge 15 is arranged between an upturned flange 20 upon the frame 13,
Figs. 14 and 19, and a bearing 21 of the carrier H, and the bevel is at one side as
shown in Fig. 14, so that the backward movement of the wedge will permit the
carrier H to swing inward towards the arm to an extent which may be limited to any
desired degree by means of an adjusting screw 221 passing through the flange 20, the
reverse movement being imparted by a spring 22 confined within a box within
the frame, as shown in Fig. 19, and bearing upon the side of the carrier H.
The swinging movement thus imparted to the carrier imparts a similar movement to
the awl by means of which the feeding of the fabric is effected, the extent therefore
of the feed being limited by the position of the adjusting screw 221 which regulates
the play of the carrier H.
The backward and forward movement of the needle-arm and needle-bar whereby
the needle is brought into line with the opening previously punched by the awl, is
effected by the reciprocation of a slide 25 in which the needle-bar and awl-bar have
their bearings, the said slide being fitted to bearings in the carrier H, as shown
in Fig. 20.
The reciprocation of the slide in the direction of its arrow (Fig. 20) is effected by
means of a lever 26, Figs. 11, 13 and 20, pivoted at 27 to the carrier H, and carrying
a stud 28 which enters an OG cam groove 29 in the side of the slide 25, so that as
the forward end of the lever 26 moves up and down the stud 28 will bear upon the
sides of the cam groove and reciprocate the slide back and forth, bringing the awl and
needle alternately in line with the oponing 6 in the work-plate. The lever 26 is also
used as a means for imparting the vertical reciprocating movement to the awl bar, a
stud 30 on the latter extending into a slot 31 in the end of the lever. The needle
bar 8 is reciprocated by means of a lever 32 swinging upon a pin 33, extending into
the arm 13, Fig. 12, the lever 32 having a slot 34 receiving a stud 35 from the
needle-bar. The means for imparting vibration to the lever 32 will be fully set forth.
The rocking movement imparted to the shaft 36 that carries the arın 9 supporting
the upper thread carrier D is effected by means of a reciprocating rod 37 (connected
to an upwardly extending arm 38) that is reciprocated by the vibration of à lever 39,
operated by a cam upon the shaft 19, see Figs. 12, 15 to 18.
The shaft 36 that operates the thread carrier has its bearings in a bracket 40 on
the lower end of the presser bar. 41, carrying a presser foot 42, and extending
upward through bearings in the arm 13; and the said bracket also carries the vertical
shaft 43, to which is connected the arm 11, supporting the loop holder E so that
whatever may be the adjustment of the presser foot, the upper thread carrier and the
loop holder will always maintain their relative positions. The loop holder shaft 43 is
provided with an arm 44 to which is connected through a ball and socket joint a
rod 45 that is in turn connected at its opposite end through a similar joint to a rock
lever 46, vibrating upon a bracket 47 extending from the standard, and a rod 48,
Figs. 12 and 14, connects the lever 46 with another lever 49, pivoted at its lower
end to the standard and vibrated by a cam upon the shaft 19.
The presser bar and with it the presser foot are lifted by means of a lever 50
pivoted to a stud at the top of the arm 13, and connected by a rod 51 to a trendle 5%.
The lever 50 is not connected positively to the presser bar, but is connected by a
link 3 (Fig. 21) to a short cam lever 53, pivoted between the arms of a yoke 54,
which embraces the prosser bar 41, and receives a loose block 55, against which the
end of the cam lever 53 is brought to bear when the lever 50 is raised, thereby
causing the block and the yoke to bite against the presser bar when the lever 50 is
lifted, so that the presser bar will be carried with it, see Figs. 21 and 22.
When the presser bar descends and the presser foot takes its bearing upon
the fabric, the yoke may slide downward into contact with the arm 13, and

page_text: however thick or thin the fabric may be, the next movement of the cam to
elevate the presser foot will always lift it to the same extent above the goods.
If the extent of the movement of the presser foot above the goods is fixed at
say one-tenth of an inch, the presser foot after being seated upon the fabric will he
lifted to that extent by the cam action to ease the fabric for feeding as before
described; this lifting being effected just before the awl moves upward on its first
lifting movement prior to carrying the fabric forward to bring the awl in line with
the opening in the work plate.
In order to enable a small awl to be employed and to avoid the necessity of
depending upon the size and stiffness of the awl to prevent it from being deflected in
the act of feeding the fabric, a bearing is provided for the awl at a point below that
to which the point of the awl rises and as close as possible to the surface of the fabric.
As shown (Figs. 15 to 18) the bearing consists of a bent rod 170 sliding in ears 171
and 172, upon the slide 177, with its lower end in a position to bear against the side
of the awl when the latter is in the fabric. A projection or cross pin 173, Fig. 18
extends from the bearing 170 and rests upon an arm 174, connected with the support
for the presser foot, so that when the latter is lifted, the bearing 170 will also be
lifted and a spring 175 throws down the bearing 170 when the presser foot is
dépressed.
It is necessary to lift the presser foot slightly before the awl makes its first lifting
movements to ense the fabric from the work plate prior to feeding it forward, and this
movement of the presser foot is effected by the vibration of the lever 50, through the
medium of a link 57 having a slot through which the shaft 19 passes to guide it, and
another slot 58 to receive a stud 59 carried by the lever 50 and reciprocated by means
of a cam (Fig. 28) upon the driving shaft 19. The lever 50 is raised at the forward
end by the descent of the link 57, the slot 58 in the link permitting an independent
movement of the lever 50 under the action of the treadle, so that the presser foot may
be lifted by means of the treadle whatever may be the position of the presser foot
upon the goods during the operation of the machine. In order to regulate with ease
and precision the extent to which the presser foot is lifted by the cam above the fabric,
the link 57 is provided with an adjusting screw 60, extending through the upper end
of the slot 58, thereby limiting the play of the stud in said slot.
As the frame G carrying the horn A is pivoted to the standard F. as described,
the said horn may he swung around its centre to the various positions necessary to
present a boot or shoe properly to the operating devices, and in order to operate the
lower thread guide and deflector whatever may be the position of the horn, the
movements to these parts are imparted through the medium of heads 63, 64, 65, sliding
upon a vertical line coincident with the axis of the frame G. As shown the said
heads slide upon a shaft or bar 66 extending between the arms of the frame G, and
each head is in the form of a spool or bobbin between the flanges of which extends a
stud upon a lever carried by the frame. As shown there are two levers 67, 68,
pivoted to the frame G, on opposite sides thereof, the lever 67 being connected by a
rod 69 with a block 70, to which is attached the thread carrier 3, as best shown in
Figs. 23 to 25, and the lever 68 is connected by a rod 71 to a block 72, carrying a
stud 73, that enters an angular slot. 74 in the lower end of the <leflector 4.
The two
levers reciprocate together to carry the lower thread carrier and deflector to and from
the opening in the work plate, but when the deflector has to swing to one side the
movement of the lever 67 is arrested, while that of the lever 68 is continued, thereby
causing the stud 73 to traverse the slot 74 and vibrating the deflector 4. It will be
seen that by the use of the sliding thread carrier and deflector and by imparting the
vibration or take-up action to the deflector, these parts may be arranged so as to work
effectually within the limited area possible in a small curved horn of a character
adapted to operate within shoes of the smallest dimension, and that the movements
imparted are positive, and uniform and simple in their character.
In the peculiar class of stitch heretofore referred to it is essential to effective and
uniform work that each loop of the upper thread shall he drawn into the fabric to the
same extent from the surface as every other loop. If the fabric was of uniform

page_text: thickness, the adjustment of the parts so as to produce a single stitch of the proper
character would be sufficient, as the succeeding stitches would simply be duplicates
in their positions of the first. But in the class of fabrics upon which the machine
above described is intended to operate, the thickness of the material that is passed over
the work-plate varies from time to time and to a very material extent, so that without
some automatic adjustment of the operating parts the loops of upper thread would be
drawn too far into the fabric where it was thickest and not far enough at the thinnest
portions.
In order to secure the uniform action desired means are provided whereby the
upward throw or movement of the needle varies according to the thickness of the
fabric, so that the loop of lower thread is always drawn to the same extent above
the surface of the fabric, which in the case of a fabric of varying thickness will be a
varying extent above the surface of the work-plate, and a take-up having a uniform
action is employed so that after the parts are once adjusted to produce the desired
stitch, the loop of lower thread will always be drawn downward to the same extent
below the surface of the fabric whatever may be the varying position of the surface
.as regards its distance from the work plate and thereby each loop of upper thread is
drawn into the fabric to precisely the same extent below the surface as the other
loops.
Different means may be employed for automatically regulating the movements of
the needle to maintain the same upward draft from the surface of the fabric. Those
now to be described have been proved to be very effective. In order to effect this
result the fulcrum of the lever which drives the needle bar is varied by means of a
connection with the presser foot, or other bearing upon the surface of the fabric in
such manner that in proportion as the said foot is lifted by an increase in the thickness
of the fabric the fulcrum will be changed to lift the needle to a corresponding extent
and when the said fulcrum or piece is lowered by a decrease in the thickness of the
fabric, the fulcrum will be varied to limit the upward movement of the needle
to a corresponding extent. An effective arrangement for securing this result is shown
in Fig. 12, in which there is a lever 80 pivoted to a stud 81 at the side of the arm 13,
and provided with a slot 82 in the end, which end overlaps the end of the lever 32
that operates the needle bar, and a stud 83 passes through the slot 82 and through a
slot 84 in the overlapping end of the lever 32 and is connected to an arm 85 jointed
to the lower end of a lever 86 pivoted to the head of the machine and having a
curved slot. 87 receiving a stud 88 extending laterally from the presser bar.
arrangement of these parts is such that when the presser bar is raised the lever 86
will be swung in the direction of its arrow, drawing forward the stud 83, thereby
shortening the effective working arm of the lever 32, to which motion is imparted from
the lover 80 correspondingly lengthening the arm of the lover 80 and increasing the
throw of the lever 32, and correspondingly increasing the upward throw of the needle;
a reverse movement of the presser bar resulting in throwing back the stud 83 and
decreasing the extent of the upward movement of the levor. The extent to which
the needle is moved downward, however, is never varied because when the over-
lapping arms of the levers 80 and 32 are at the limit of their upward movements the
slots 82 and 84 will coincide and be parallel so that any movement of the stud 83
therein will not have any effect in varying the relative position of the needle.
The
If the movement of the needle was depended upon to control the delivery of the
lower thread from the thread holder, any increased elevation of the needle would
result in drawing the thread through h the hook of the needle during its passage
through the fabric and above the same, and would result in fraying and weakening
the thread, or, if a constant amount of thread was drawn by the lower looping
mechanism to supply the needle in its ascent through and above the leather, which
amount would necessarily be sufficient only for a given thickness of fabric sewn, any
increase in its thickness would result in a rendering of the thread through the hook
-of the needle, and a consequent chafing of its thread. To avoid this the movements
of the thread controllers within the horn are varied so that when the fabric increases
in thickness and the loop must be carried to an increased extent from the work plate

page_text: the said thread controllers will after laying the thread around the needle draw back to
an increased extent, thereby drawing an extra quantity of thread from the thread
holder below, forming a loop of extra length which is delivered as the needle moves
upward through the fabric, and is carried upward therewith in the form of a loop
without any material sliding movement of the thread through the hook of the needle.
In order to automatically vary the draft of the thread controller to correspond
to the increased upward movement of the needle, the devices which impart the
sliding movement of the said controller are connected with the devices which regulate
the movements of the needle. Thus as shown in Fig. 12 the heads 64 and 65 are
reciprocated upon the rod 66 respectively by levers 90 and 91 pivoted to the standard,.
and each deriving its movement through a sliding bearing on the lever vibrated from
a cam upon the shaft 19. Thus the lever 90 is slotted at the inner end and is
overlapped by the slotted end of the lever 92 and a sliding hearing pin 93 which
extends through the slots of both lovers is carried by a slide 94 between the prongs.
of a forked arm 95 pivoted to a rock shaft 96 passing through the standard. On
the opposite end of the shaft 96, Fig. 11, is a similar but shorter forked arm 97
carrying a slide 98 provided with a bearing pin 99 which passes through the slots in
the overlapping ends of the lever 91, and a lever 100 swinging upon the same stud 18.
as does the lever 92, a rod 101 extends from the lever 100 to an operating cam
carried by the shaft 19, and a rod 102 extends from the lever 92 to an operating cam
also carried by the shaft 19.
By swinging the shaft 96 the bearings 93, 99 are changed in position so as to vary
the throw of the levers 90, 91, 67, 68, and correspondingly vary the reciprocation of
the lower thread controller, and the position of the shaft 96 is controlled by the position
of the stud 88 by connection between them as best illustrated in Fig. 12; thus a
lever 104 pivoted to the side of the arm 13 is connected by a rod 105 to the lever 86,
that controls the position of the stud 83, and the said lever 104 is also connected by
a rod 106 with an arm 107 upon the shaft 96. As a result of this arrangement when
the presser foot and its bar rises and swings the lower end of the lever 86 forward
thereby causing an increased elevation of the needle, the shaft 96 is swung in the
direction of its arrow and the bearings 93, 99 are shifted so as to impart an increased
throw to the levers 90, 91, 67 and 68, and thereby draw back the thread controller
and increase the distance from the needle, corresponding in extent to the increase in
the length of the loop which is supplied to the needle.
While a certain arrangement of levers and shifting bearings therefor, has been
described it will be evident that any skilled mechanic may vary such arrangements.
without departing from the main features of the invention, consisting in interposing.
between the thread controller and its actuating device and between the needle and its
actuating device, variable connections controlled by the position of the surface of the
fabric so as to vary the extent to which the needle rises above the work plate and
maintain a uniform movement above the surface of the fabric and so as to vary the
extent of the loop drawn round the needle below the work plate to correspond to the
extent to which the loop must be drawn above the work plate.
By bending the horn and the thread controllers within the horn to a curve extending
from the angle of the horn into a horizontal plane at the end, the horn may be
introduced into the contracted ends of small shoes and will work effectively upon a
class of articles which cannot be sewed upon a horn of ordinary construction, and this
is effected without wounding or straining the upper in any degree. By producing the
drawing and spreading actions by a sliding movement of the controller instead of
rotary movements as heretofore the desired results may be effected within a much
more contracted space than would otherwise be practicable.
In order to permit easy access to the thread controller the upper portion of the
horn is made in the form of a curved arm or base 107 (see Figs. 23 and 24) which
carries the thread controller and of a pivotted case or cap 108 which covers the thread
controller and carries the work-plate, the said cap being pivotted to the outside of the
horn at the lower end so that it can be thrown outward to the position shown in dotted

page_text: lines Fig. 12, without contact with any of the parts carried by the overhanging arm
of the machine.
In order to avoid the necessity of uncovering the thread controller for threading
purposes by lifting the case 108 the ends of the thread carrier and deflector are
extended beyond the arm 107 as shown in Fig. 23, and a guiding slot 160 and guide
roller 109 are provided at the inside of said arm so that the thread can be conducted
along the said arm on the inside and over the roller 109, directly through the eye
of the carrier.
When waxed threads are used two wax pots are provided one 110 adjacent to the
overhanging arm for the passage of the upper thread, and another 111 for the passage
of the lower thread, the pot 111 being arranged within a recess in the frame G, and
each pot is provided with a suitable stripper, and guides are properly arranged to
conduct the threads from the strippers to the upper thread carrior and to the horn.
In order to maintain the wax upon the upper thread in a soft condition there is
placed in immediate proximity to the parts operating upon the upper thread adjacent
to the presser foot, a hollow steam casing to and from which steam is conducted by
means of a pair of steam pipes 112, the inlet pipe being provided with a cock 113,
by means of which the steam may be cut off or regulated, and in order to prevent
strain or fracture of the pipes from the movement of the presser foot, the said pipes
are bent at their rear ends into coils as shown in Figs. 12 and 14, so as to permit
them to spring sufficiently to accommodate the movements of the parts to which they
are connected. In the construction shown the steam case is formed by making
a portion of the bracket 40 hollow and connecting the pipes with this hollow
portion.
The wax upon the lower thread is maintained soft by means of a steam pipe 114
extending along the horn upon one side and downward along the other side in
proximity to the course of the thread.
Inasmuch as the presser foot and parts carried thereby are movable vertically and
the connecting rods by which movements are imparted to these parts are connected
with levers upon the stationary frame of the machine, the connections are made by
ball and socket joints, permitting the necessary changes of anglos without straining
to the varying positions.
Any desired form of take-up may be employed in connection with the lower thread
which is the only thread that is necessary to be drawn upon for the purpose of
forming the loop. The one which will now be described has proved most effective
in connection with appliances for imparting variable action according to the amount
of thread required to be delivered.
The take up is carried by the frame G at the base of the horn A, and consists
essentially of a disc I (Fig. 23) having a transverse slot 116, across one face and
two studs or rollers 117, 118, arranged opposite the edge of the disc upon opposite 4
sides. The thread is passed through the slot 116, across one side of the roller 118
and across the other of the roller 117, and so long as the slot 116 is in a line
with the bearing faces of the rollers, the thread, can pass freely without resistance
but when the disc is turned in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 23, the thread is
laid upon the edge of the disc upon opposito sides creating a frictional resistance
to the movement of the thread, which resistance is increased so as to absolutely
prevent any movement by forming a narrow V-shaped notch 119 at the edge of the
disc and into which the thread is drawn as the disc turns to carry the slot 116 away
from the roller 117. The extent to which the disc may be turned will determine
the extent to which the thread is drawn from a wax pot around the roller 118, and
from the thread controller around the roller 117, and by varying the extent of
the rocking motion of the disc the desired amount of thread is taken up and when
the disc is returned to its position with the slot 116 in line with the bearing faces
of the rollers, the thread can again pass freely and without obstruction.
As the rocking disc will draw upon the wax pot more than is necessary to supply
the next stitch the thread is passed between the wax pot and the take-up through the

page_text: eye of a spring arm 120, which as the disc rocks back to its first position will take up
any slack, prevent the thread from escaping from the roller 117 and will yield with
a nominal resistance when the thread is drawn through the slot 116.
One means of imparting movement to the take-up disc I, is through the medium of
a pinion 121 upon the shaft 122 of the said disc, gearing with a toothed rack 123 upon
the end of a lever 124, pivotted to the side of the frame G, with a stud at the end
which enters between the flanges of the head 63, which is reciprocated upon the rod 66
by the vibration of a lever 125 pivotted to the frame of the machine. The lever 125
derives its motion from the vibration of a lever 126 to which is connected a rod 127,
Fig. 11, leading to an operating cam upon the shaft 19. The extent of the vibration
of the levers operating the rack 123 may be varied by adjusting a stud 128 in a slot
in the lever 126, the said stud entering a slot in the lever 125.
At different points in the above machine where levers are connected to actuating
links or rods a nice adjustment is secured so as to time all the movements with extreme
accuracy by making the connections adjustable. The means of effecting this adjustment
are illustrated in Fig. 30, in which represents one of the levers and S one of the
connecting rods, and T the connecting pin. The pin T extends through the lever R
and may be turned by a head 135, and secured in any position by means of a set
screw 136, or by any other device. From the end of the pin T projects an eccentric
stud 137 which extends through the connecting rod S, and is headed or otherwise
constructed to maintain the latter upon the eccentric stud. By loosening the screw 136
and turning the pin T, the stud 137 is carried to or from the fulcrum of the lever,
thereby varying with great nicety the extent of movement imparted to the lever by
the reciprocation of the rod S.
Different parts of the machine have been referred to as being operated from the
cams on the driving shaft 19. There are three of these cams U, V, W, illustrated
diagrammatically in Figs. 28 and 29, and each cam is grooved upon the opposite faces
for the reception of anti-friction studs extending froin the adjacent rods and levers.
Thus the cam W has upon one face two grooves to receive the studs upon the
levers 39 and 49, and on the opposite face two grooves to receive the studs upon
the connecting rods 57 and 102. The cam V has a groove upon one face to receive a
stud upon the needle operating lever 80 and a groove upon the opposite face to receive
a stud upon the awl operating lover 26. The cam U has upon one face two grooves
to receive a stud upon the lever 17 from which movement is imparted to the wedge 15,
and a stud on the rod 101, from which movement is imparted to the thread controller,
and on the opposite side a groove to receive a stud on the rod 127 that operates
the take up.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondents and without limiting myself to the precise con-
struction and arrangement of parts shown I declare that what I claim is :-
1. The combination in a sewing machine of a work-plate and arranged above the
work plate a reciprocating awl, a reciprocating needle and movable supports therefor,
whereby the awl and needle may be brought respectively over the opening in the
work-plate, a reciprocating thread carrier arranged above the work plate in position to
penetrate the loop held by the needle, and a reciprocating loop holder, also above the
work-plate arranged in position to engage the thread carried by the thread carrier,
substantially as set forth.
2. The combination with a horn carrying a perforated work-plate, and a lower
thread controller below the same of a reciprocating and vibrating awl, a reciprocating
and vibrating hooked needle, and reciprocating upper thread carrier and loop holder,
all arranged above the work-plate, substantially as set forth.
3. The combination with the work plate and a controller carrying and operating a
lower thread, of an overhanging arm supporting a reciprocating needle, vibrating
upper thread carrier, vibrating looper, and a reciprocating awl and support therefore,
B

page_text: and means substantially as described for vibrating said support with the awl to feed
the fabric substantially as set forth.
4. The combination, with the reciprocating perforating and feeding awl and
perforated work-plate, of awl operating mechanism, substantially as described,
arranged to first depress the awl, to penetrate the fabric without passing through
the same, prior to feeding, and to carry the awl downward through the opening
in the work plate and entirely through the fabric after feeding the same substantially
as set forth.
5. The combination with the reciprocating needle and upper thread carrier, of a
loop holder reciprocating in a horizontal plane below the path of the thread carrier,
substantially as set forth.
6. The combination with the reciprocating needle and reciprocating loop holder, of
a reciprocating thread carrier having a notch at the outer edge for passage of the loop
holder substantially as and for the purpose specified.
7. The combination in a sewing machine, having an upper hooked needle of the
work-plate, and a thread controller and operating devices whereby the controller lays
the thread in the hook of the needle, said controller arranged within a horn curved at
the upper end and supporting the work plate substantially as set forth.
8. The combination with the hollow horn curved at the upper end of a thread
controller consisting of a thread carrier and a laterally movable thread deflector,
substantially as described.
9. The combination with a reciprocating hooked needle and perforated work-plate
of a thread controller, carrying the lower thread and arranged below the work plate
and constructed to support the thread in a horizontal line at one side of the needle,
and means for reciprocating the holder to carry the thread around the needle,
substantially as set forth.
10. The combination with the reciprocating hooked needle and perforated work
plate of a hollow bont horn supporting the work plate, a longitudinally reciprocating
curved thread carrier for the lower thread, and a vibrating curved thread distender
pivoted to the carrier and constituting therewith a thread controllor arranged within
the horn, substantially as set forth.
11. The combination with the curved hollow horn of a thread controller, consisting
of a curved thread carrier and a thread distonder pivoted thereto, a rod connected with
the thread carrier and with an operating lever below the horn, and another rod
connected with another lever below the horn and carrying a stud bearing upon the cam
edge of the thread distender, substantially as set forth.
12. The frame G carrying a horn, a thread controller and levers connected to
operate the thread controller and other appliances upon the frame, in combination with
reciprocating heads having their bearings axially in line with the axis of the frame
and provided with bearings for the said levers, substantially as set forth.
13. The combination of the frame G swinging upon a vertical axis and carrying a
horn and thread controller and operating levers 67, 68 therefor, and a vertical rod in
line with the axis of the frame and reciprocating heads upon said rod having bearings
upon the said lovers, substantially as set forth.
14. The combination with the swinging frame, thread controller and take up of a
lever connected to operate the take up and a reciprocating head having a bearing
for said lever in line with the axis of the frame substantially as set forth.
15. The combination with the slotted take up disk I of a pinion 121 connected
with the disk, and a rack lever gearing with the pinion and supported upon a swing-
ing frame G having bearings for the disk shaft and a reciprocating head moving upon
bearings in line with the axis of the frame and having bearings for the end of the
rack lever, substantially as set forth.
16. The combination with a horn and a thread controller supported thereby, of a
cap covering the thread controller and hinged to the horn to swing to and from the
same, substantially as set forth.
17. The combination with the horn and thread controller supported thereby and

page_text: with the work-plate of a hinged casing supporting the work-plate and covering the
thread controller, substantially as set forth.
18. The combination in a sewing machine of a reciprocating needle above the
work plate and a vertically adjustable presser bar carrying a presser foot and recipro-
cating upper thread carrier, and a lower thread carrier and reciprocating loop holder
supported by the presser-bar substantially as set forth.
19. The combination with the upper thread carrier loop-holder and with the presser-
foot of a sewing machine of a vertically adjustable presser bar, having bearings for
the shafts of the thread carrier and loop-holder and operating levers upon the frame
of the machine and connecting rods between said levers and said shafts provided with
universal jointed connections substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
20. The combination with the adjustable presser-bar, of a bracket supporting the
presser foot and the shafts of a thread carrier and loop-holder, and a steam casing
communicating with inlet and outlet pipos, substantially as set forth.
21. The combination of the reciprocating needle and its operating lever and a
driver therefor and movable bearing between the same, and with a presser-foot for
bearing upon the fabric and moving vertically, of connections between the pressur
foot and the needle lever driver for varying the position of the bearing between the
needle lever and its driver, substantially as set forth.
22. The combination with the reciprocating needle bar lever connected therewith,
a driving and movable connection between the same and the needle bar lever, of a
movable foot bearing upon the fabric connected with said movable bearing to adjust
the same, substantially as set forth.
23. The combination of the reciprocating needle bar, operating lever, driving lever
and movable bearing connected with the adjustable presser foot, of slots in said levers
arranged to coincide with each other upon a horizontal line when the needle is at the
limit of its downward movement substantially as described.
24. The combination with the reciprocating needle bar and reciprocating thread
controller and operating appliances of a vertically movable foot bearing upon the
fabric and movable bearings between the needle bar and controller and their operating
appliances connected with said foot, whereby the extent of the movements of the
needle bar and controller are regulated by the position of said foot, substantially as
set forth.
25. The combination with the thread controller of levers 90 and 91 driving
levers 92 and 100, a movable bearing between the levers 90 and 92 and a movable
bearing between the levers 91 and 100, a vertically movable foot bearing upon
the fabric, and connections between said foot and said movable hearing substantially
as set forth.
26. The combination with the lower thread controller levers 90 and 91 from which
movements are imported to the thread controller of overlapping driving levers, the
over-lapping portions of the levers being slotted and bearings movable in said slots,
and a movable presser foot and connections between the said bearings, and the said
presser foot, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
27. The combination in a sewing machine of a workplate and overhanging arm,
reciprocating needle and awl bars, and a carrier therefor supported by the
overhanging arms upon a vertical pivot and adjustable laterally, substantially as set
forth.
28. The combination with the overhanging arm of a sewing machine of a pivoted
wing constituting a carrier for the needle and awl bars and a reciprocating wedge
moving in contact with the bearing of said carrier to reciprocate the same laterally,
substantially as set forth.
29. The combination with the overhanging arm, movable wing and reciprocating
wedge of the adjusting screw 221 and spring 22 substantially as and for the purpose
set forth.
30. The overhanging arm, provided with a laterally adjustable carrier swung on a
vertical pivot of a slide movable back and forth in said carrier and carrying the
vertically sliding needle and awl bars, substantially as set forth.

page_text: 31. The combination with the overhanging arm, of a swinging carrier supporting
a movable slide in which reciprocate the needle and awl bars, and a lever pivoted to
said carrier connected with one of said bars and provided with a stud bearing upon
the cam edge of the slide, substantially as set forthi.
32. The combination with the reciprocating awl, of a bearing therefor supporte·l
at a point below that to which the point of the awl rises, substantially as set forth.
33. The combination with the carrier supporting the reciprocating awl, of a bearing
for the awl extending below the point to which the point of the awl rises, provided
with an arm bearing upon a connection with the adjustable presser-foot substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 23rd day of January 1889