Improvements in Attachments for Skirts.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Nov., 1895-Accepted, 14th Dec.. 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by MARY PAMELLIA CARPENTER HOOPER.
Gentlewoman, of 56 West 21st Street, in the City of New York, United
States of America.]
Improvements in Attachments for Skirts.
I PHILIP ARTHUR NEWTON of The Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings.
Chancery Lane in the County of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to a device for improving the hang of skirts. In making
that kind of dress skirts popularly known as organ-pipe or godet skirts, or skirts
having organ-pipe or godet backs, that is, having large folds or pleatings extended
from at or near the waist to the bottom of the skirt, and which may be formed only
in the back of the skirt, or may extend a greater or less distance around the skirt,
or even entirely around the skirt, it has been customary to provide the skirt with a
lining of hair cloth or other suitable stiffening material, extending from at or near
the waist to the bottom of the skirt, and part way or entirely around the skirt,
according as the large or organ-pipe folds or godets are to extend part way or
entirely around the skirt. This lining is made of a material such as hair cloth, of
sufficient thickness to cause the skirt to hang in the desired large folds, and
consequently makes the skirt very heavy, and therefore uncomfortable, and fatiguing
to wear. It should also be as elastic as possible, so as to cause the skirt to return
to its proper arrangement, after the folds have been disarranged. The best
material heretofore used for the purpose has been hair-cloth, but this is very
expensive, and even it will, after a short time, become creased and lose its elasticity,
and the folds will become broken and out of shape.
This invention aims to provide a device or attachment which will improve the
hang of such organ pipe or godet skirts, causing them to hang in the desired folds,
and causing the material to return to the proper folds, after being disarranged, and
by which the folds will be preserved as long as the dress is worn, and which device
shall render the use of hair-cloth or similar material heretofore used in such skirts
unnecessary, and shall be light, inexpensive, and comfortable and convenient to the
wearer.
To this end, there is provided one or more series of rings or bows, preferably by
providing spring rods adapted to be bent to form rings or bows, which rings
or bows extend into the folds of the skirt, one ring of each series extending into a
fold, each series extending laterally part way or entirely around the skirt, or as far
as it is desired to have the large folds extend, and the series, if more than one
series is used, being placed at different distances from the bottom of the skirt.
The broad idea of the invention is capable of various embodiments and uses, some
of which will be herein shown and described.
As a full understanding of the invention can best be given by a full description
thereof in connection with drawings illustrating the invention, all further
preliminary description will be omitted, and a detailed description will now be
given, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this
Specification, and illustrating a preferred embodiment of the invention, in
which;-
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a dress skirt provided with the device which is
indicated be dotted lines

page_text: Fig. 2 is a plan view of the device as it would appear in position, as in Fig. 1,
the material of the skirt being indicated by dotted lines.
Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but on a smaller scale, and showing the
parts disconnected, and the device extended, and the material of the skirt not being
indicated.
Fig. 4 is an enlarged broken perspective view of the device extended.
Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a back piece (and, in dotted lines, of a complete
skirt) provided with the device, and also provided with a top adjusting device,
which is illustrated in detail in Figs. 6 and 7.
Fig. 8 is a detail view, showing a ring contracted and lengthened for the purpose
of forming deeper folds.
Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 2, but of a modified construction.
Fig. 10 is a detail view of a spring rod of india rubber, showing in dotted lines
the rod hent to form a ring.
In the drawings, a a represent a series of springs rods connected together, and
provided with means to allow of their being secured to the material of the skirt,
preferably being secured at proper distances apart to a band 2, of suitable
material, such as tape or ribbon, which is preferably somewhat wider than the
springs, and they are preferably secured to the band in the manner shown in the
drawings, the band being provided with pockets 3 to receive the rods, thus allowing
of easy insertion and removal of the rods, and having connecting portions between
the pockets. The rods may be made of any suitable material, as flat spring steel
or whalebone, and they are preferably provided with suitable means for detachably
securing their ends together, as a hook 4 at one end, adapted to catch in an eyelet.
or hole 5 in the other end, as shown.
In use, one or more of the devices are secured to the inside of the skirt, as
indicated in Fig. 1, so as to extend laterally around the skirt the proper distance,
according to the distance the large folds are to extend, the number of springs being
equal to the number of the large folds. When constructed as shown in the
drawings, the device is secured to the skirt by sewing or otherwise securing the
band to the skirt, and each spring may then be bent to form a ring, and its ends
hooked together, as shown in Fig. 2, thus forming a series of rings arranged
periphery to periphery, and connected together, on one side of the series, by the
portions 6 of the band, and between which rings the material of the skirt extends.
Beyond each end of each pocket, the band is preferably provided with means for
drawing the connecting portions 6 of the band back, around the rings thus formed,
and for this purpose there is preferably secured to the band a buckle 6, just beyond
one end of each pocket, and a strap 7 just beyond the other end of each pocket.
By drawing the straps 7 through their corresponding buckles 6, the connecting
portions will be drawn inward, thus allowing the skirt material to extend back
further between the rings, and the rings will be caused to take a proper curved
position relatively to each other, all as is clearly indicated in Fig. 2. The straps 7
may be made by forming a loop in the band 2, and the buckle may also be
conveniently secured to the band by means of a loop of the band, as shown.
Instead of straps and buckles, as shown, strings or tapes may be provided to answer
the same purpose, and the term "drawback straps" will be hereinafter used to.
designate such buckles and straps, or their equivalents. By making the connecting
portions sufficiently short, the rings will be thereby held in a proper curved
position, without the employment of such drawback straps, but the arrangement
shown is preferred, as it provides for a deeper fold, and provides a convenient way
of adjusting the relative positions of the rings, but it will be understood that such
adjustment may be provided for in other ways.
The means for securing the ends of the spring rods together, are preferably
arranged to provide for an adjustment of the size of the rings formed by the rods,
as in the arrangement shown, by providing each rod with a series of the eyelets 5,
and sliding retaining straps 8 are preferably provided on the rods a, to secure the
free overlapping ends of the rods.

page_text: It will be understood, however, that means for connecting the ends of the rods
may be entirely dispensed with, especially when the rods are intended merely to be
bent to form bows, as by means of the drawback straps, in which case the rods will
preferably be proportionately somewhat shorter than shown, and may be secured to
the band for their whole length.
It will thus be seen, that the skirt will be caused to hang in the desired folds, as
shown in Fig. 1, without the use of a stiffening lining; the folds cannot be much
displaced at or near the rings; and by having the folds preserved at one place, the
skirt will tend to hang in the proper folds for its whole length, and after being
disturbed, will tend to return to its proper position.
It is to be understood that instead of the construction shown for securing the
rings to the skirt, various other means and arrangements may be resorted to, as any
other suitable rings or bows, or devices for forming rings or bows, may be secured
permanently or removably to the inside of the skirt, in any suitable manner, so as
to extend the material in the desired folds, but the device shown is preferred, and in
itself forms a part of the invention. With this arrangement the spring rods may
be readily disconnected and extended, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, thus allowing the
skirt to be readily folded without injury, and the rods may readily be removed.
In Fig. 9 is shown a series of ordinary rings of any suitable material, adjustably
secured together on one side of the series, and secured to the skirt so that the
material of the skirt will extend between the rings, the rings being left free from
each other, except for the connectious on the inner side of the series. This will
also be found a very convenient construction, as the rings may be disconnected for
packing.
The rings or bows, or the band carrying the rings or bows, are preferably secured
to the skirt, as indicated in Fig 2, by being secured to a lining of the skirt, to
which the material forming the outside of the skirt is fastened between or in the
recesses of the folds, and the breadths of which lining, between such lines of
connection with the outside material of the skirt, are made narrower than the
corresponding breadths of such outside material, so that such outside material shall
hang free therefrom, thus avoiding any ridges being caused in the outside material
of the skirt by the rings or bows.
As shown in the drawings, the device is provided with three rods, and is adapted
to be used in a skirt which is to have three of the large or organ-pipe folds, but it
will be understood that each series may contain any number of rings or rods,
according to the number of organ-pipe folds desired, and if the folds are to extend
entirely around the skirt, the series of rings may also extend entirely around the
skirt; or, if preferred, they may be used only for the larger folds at the back. It
will also be understood that only one series of rings may be used, or any number
of series may be used, being placed one above the other at various distances
from the bottom of the skirt.
The rings or bows of each series will preferably decrease in size in each
direction from the centre to the back of the skirt, and when a plurality of series
are used, each series from the bottom upward will have smaller rings or bows.
Light india rubber tubing is a good material of which to make the rings or
bows, as it is very elastic, and will properly extend the folds, and yet is very
flexible, and practically unbreakable, and it is not affected by moisture, and is
therefore particularly well adapted for use at the bottom of the skirt. In Fig. 10
is shown a spring rod formed of india rubber tubing, which may be used in the
construction shown instead of the rods shown in the other figures. As shown in
this figure, one end of the tube is, tapered, so as to fit into the other end, to hold
the ends together, when bowed to form a ring, as indicated in dotted lines. The
use of india rubber tubing in this construction forins a feature of the invention.
Fig. 5' shows in full lines a back piece adapted to be worn underneath a dress
skirt, for the purpose of causing it to hang in the desired folds. In using such a
back piece, the dress skirt may be, and preferably will be, tacked into the folds of
the back piece. For light summer dresses, and especially for wash dresses, it will

page_text: be found desirable to use a complete underskirt, as indicated in dotted lines in
Fig. 5, provided with the device. Such an underskirt, having the device extending
entirely or nearly all the way round, will also be well adapted to take the place of
hoop skirts provided with continuous rings extending entirely around the skirt, and
will have the advantages of such a skirt, without many of its disadvantages. The
lateral extension of the skirt will be attained without the rigidity attendant upon
the use of hoops.
To aid in securing the best hanging of the skirt, provision for an adjustment of
the skirt at the belt, or near the top of the skirt, is made, as indicated in Fig. 5,
and as shown in detail in Figs. 6 and 7, which are diagrammatical top plan views
of the top portion of a skirt or back piece, and in which 10 represents the material
of the skirt, which lies in folds 11, which are the upper ends of organ-pipe folds of
the skirt or back piece. Secured to the material of the skirt, beyond the
folds 11, are straps 12 and 13, one of which preferably carries a buckle. By
tightening these straps, the material beyond the folds will be drawn together to
form auxiliary or reinforcing folds 14, which will bear inward on the main folds,
and thereby aid in preserving and holding such folds in place.
It may sometimes be desired to make deeper folds in the skirt than can be
obtained by the use of round rings, as shown in Fig. 2. This may be accomplished
in various ways, a preferred way being by providing contracting spring bands 20,
preferably spiral springs, as shown in Fig. 8, to extend across the rings from side
to side, by which the rings will be narrowed in one direction and lengthened in the
other. Inelastic contracting bands might be used, but spring bands are preferable,
as the rings will be thereby held to the desired form, and yet remain flexible and
compressible in all directions.
Although the attachment is designed to make a skirt hang in the desired folds
without the use of the heavy stiffening lining, yet it will be understood that the
attachment may also be advantageously used in a skirt which is provided with such
a lining, whether lighter than would be used without it, or even of the same
weight.
Having now particularly described, and ascertained the nature of the said.
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated
to me from abroad, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. An attachment for skirts, consisting of a series of rings arranged periphery
to periphery, and connections between the rings on one side of the series, the rings
being otherwise left free from each other, said device being adapted to be secured
to the skirt, so as to extend laterally part way around the skirt, to cause the skirt
to hang in folds, substantially as described.
2. An attachment for skirts, consisting of a series of spring rods arranged end
to end, connections between the rods, and means for holding the rods in a bowed
position, substantially as described.
3. An attachment for skirts, consisting of a series of springs rods arranged end
to end, connections between the rods, and means for securing the ends of the rods
together, to form rings, substantially as described.
4. An attachment for skirts, consisting of a band 2, provided with pockets 3,
arranged longitudinally of the band, and having connecting portions b between the
pockets, spring rods in said pockets, aud means for securing the ends of the rods,
together, to form rings, substantially as described.
5. An attachment for skirts, consisting of a band 2 provided with pockets 3
arranged longitudinally of the band, and adapted to receive spring rods, and having
connecting portions between the pockets, and drawback straps secured to the
connecting portions b, substantially as described.
6. An attachment for skirts, consisting of a band 2, a series of spring rods a
secured to the band, and arranged end to end thereon, and provided with meaus for
securing their ends together to form rings, and connecting portious 6 of the band
between the rods, substantially as described.

page_text: 7. An attachment for skirts, consisting of a band 2, a series of spring rods a
secured to the band, and arranged end to end thereon, connecting portions of the
band between the rods, and drawback straps secured to the connecting portions b,
substantially as described:
8. An attachment for skirts, consisting of a band 2, a series of spring rods a
secured to the band, and arranged end to end thereon, and provided with means for
securing their ends together to form rings, connecting portions 6 of the band
between the spring rods, and drawback straps secured to the connecting portions b,
substantially as described.
9. The combination with a skirt, of one or more series of rings secured to the
skirt, the rings of each series being arranged horizontally and periphery to
periphery, and each series extending laterally part way around the skirt, and the
material of the skirt extending between the rings, and the series being secured to
the skirt at different distances from the bottom of the skirt, substantially as
described.
10. The combination with a skirt, of one or more series of springs rods secured to
the skirt, the rods of each series being arranged end to end, and each series
extending laterally part-way around the skirt, and means for drawing the ends of
the rods together, the series of rods being secured to the skirt, so as to cause the
skirt to hang in folds when the rods are bowed, substantially as described.
11. The combination with a skirt, of one or more series of rods formed of india
rubber tubing secured to the skirt, the rods of each series being arranged end to
end, and each series extending laterally part way around the skirt and means for
drawing the ends of the rods together, to cause the skirt to hang in folds,
substantially as described.
12. The combination with a skirt, of a band 2 secured to the skirt, and extending
laterally part way around the skirt, and provided with pockets 3, arranged
longitudinally of the band, and end to end thereon, and adapted to receive spring
rods, and having connecting portions between the pockets, spring rods in said
pockets, provided with means for adjustably securing their ends together to form
rings, and drawback straps secured to the portions b, substantially as described.
13. The combination with a skirt, of one or more series of spring rods secured
to a lining of the skirt, the rods of each series being arranged end to end, and
each series extending laterally part way around the skirt, to cause the skirt to bang
in folds when the rods are bowed, and means for holding the rods in a bowed
position, substantially as described.
14. The combination with a skirt, of one or more series of spring rods secured
to a lining of the skirt, the rods of each series being arranged end to end, and
each series extending laterally part way around the skirt, to cause the skirt to hang
in folds when the rods are bowed, the outside material of the skirt being fastened
to said lining in the recesses of the folds, and the breadths of the lining between such
lines of connection with the skirt being narrower than the corresponding breadths
of the outside material of the skirt, and means for holding the rods in a bowed
position, substantially as described.
15. The combination with a skirt, of one or more series of rings secured to a
living of the skirt, the rings of each series being arranged horizontally and
periphery to periphery, and each series extending laterally part way around the
skirt, to cause the skirt to hang in folds, the outside material of the skirt being
fastened to said lining in the recesses of the folds, and the breadths of the lining
between such lines of connection with the outside material of the skirt being
narrower than the corresponding breadths of the outside material of the skirt,
substantially as described.'
16. The combination with a skirt, of a series of rings secured to the skirt, the
rings being arranged horizontally and periphery to periphery, and the series
extending laterally part way around the skirt, to cause the skirt to hang in folds,
said rings being provided with spring contracting bands 20, substantially as
described.

page_text: 17. An attachment for skirts constructed substantially as herein shown and
described in connection with Figs. 1 to 5.
Dated this 30th day of October 1895.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.