IMPROVEMENTS IN JACQUARD LOOMS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF DOUBLE PIECE FIGURED VELVETS AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1884

page_text: We JAMES ESCORBIA, and JACQUES CHARLES MERLEY, of the firm of Escorbia
& Merley of N° 9 Place St. Charles, St. Etienne, in the Department of the Loire and
Republic of France, Ribbon and Velvet Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature
of our Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN JACQUARD LOOMS FOR THE MANUFACTURE
OF DOUBLE PIECE FIGURED VELVETS AND OTHER FABRICS and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
Our improved jacquard loom has a double opening of the warp for the passage
of the weft (double marchure) and when used for example in the manufacture of
double piece velvet, permits making the pile warp work so as to produce figured
velvet, of every shape and design, upon the two pieces which, as is well known are
manufactured superposed; and to produce also all ground cording (armures de fond)
in quitting the pile working; in such wise that the pile thread at a given moment
no longer making velvet, takes part in the manufacture of the ground of the fabric,
without it being necessary to ultimately cut it beneath the fabric.
This result is obtained by the arrangement of the hooks crotchets, or lifting wires
of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying
Sheet of Drawing.
This jacquard is provided with the same driving gear as that ordinarily used for
the movement of the grif leash-box or lifting bar A and of the card-bearing
cylinder B, and, in short there is nothing changed in the loom excepting the
arrangement of the hooks which work the healds; the grif A making an upward
movement double the extent of that usually made, and in this movement governing
the cards from the cylinder, by the S shaped slot or way, arranged for this purpose
at u, along which travels the friction roller v attached to the grif.
Figure 3 shows, by its theoretic tracing, the double opening of the warp which
we obtain, and on referring back to Figure 2, the play of the hooks or lifting wires
which produces it will be seen in the three respective positions which a heald
may take.
When at rest, such as are for example, the hooks of Figure 1 (where the grif A
has made its upward movement in quitting the position indicated in dotted lines;

page_text: without having taken any hooks the card not being punched which would give a
stroke without opening of the warp) and as are also the hooks 1, 11 of Fig. 2, the
lower opening of the warp shown Fig. 3 at m¹, is effected by the state of rest
itself; that is to say that in the stationary position of the hooks all the threads of
the warp are at the lowest of the three levels which they may take; each heald is
worked by two hooks tied together by a cord; but each of these hooks thus
coupled has the advantage of obeying the blade of the grif which moves it upward,
while the other is left uninfluenced and does not move from its position; and it is
owing to the combination of the play of the cord which ties these two hooks, and
which is provided with a fixed metal loop or eye carrying the heald thread, as well
as to the mobility of a metal cylinder suspended by the row of these cords that is
obtained the novel and improved method, over those hitherto known, producing at
the healds and at the warp-threads the double opening or lift desired.
The hooks or lifting wires 1, 2, 3, (see Fig. 2) are shorter than the adjoining
ones 1, 2, and 31, by the difference of the simple opening of the warp, say eight
centimeters, if the double opening extends to sixteen centimeters.
It will be seen that the two hooks 1 and 1' are therefore tied together by a cord
forming two branches C', having at its middle a small metal loop or eye et, to
which is suspended the heald cord f; these two hooks resting by their base upon
the ordinary fixed hole-board P are therefore as we have said, at rest, representing
the bottom level m¹ (Fig. 3) or n¹ (Fig. 2). If the larger 31 of the two adjoining
hooks on the right has been taken by its grif-blade or lifting bar, as is shown on
the Drawing, it will have risen to the extent of a single opening of the warp, that
is to say eight centimeters, and will have caused the production of the level of the
middle opening represented from m¹ to m² in Fig. 3; because the upward movement
of this hook has drawn the right branch or arm of the cord C³ and has brought the
fixed loop or eye e³, to the middle elevatory level represented by the dotted line n².
If on the other hand the shortest hook 2 of the two adjoining hooks, is taken by
the lifting-blade of its grif, it opera es a double rise equivalent that is to say to
sixteen centimeters, represented from m' to m³ in Fig. 3.1
But in order that the cord which connects the two hooks or lifting wires may
play so as always to remain stretched, and thus bring the fixed loop or eye e', e², e³,
into the positions determined by the three dotted lines of Fig. 2, it must be stated
that a metal cylinder i, 2, 13, is suspended in the bend or elbow of the cords of a
same series of hooks (see front view Fig. 1) where it plays for each of them the
part of a moveable and rolling pulley, rising and lowering within the limits
represented by the three levels of opening of the warp in Fig. 2. These cylinders
have their ends such as reach engaged in a slide or slot formed in the frame, which
permits then to turn without deviating from the required direction :
In order that the ordinary lattice G, may not escape the hooks in the relatively
very considerable lifting movement which is made by it when uplifted by the hooks
in a double opening of the warp, they have a somewhat long return bend h which
ensures the play of this lattice, the function of which is to preserve the direction
and the spacing or distance apart of the hooks during their working.
▸
As above stated this loom may serve for the manufacture of all kinds of double
picce articles, and an important application we make of it is in the execution of
figured velvet ribbons, manufactured in double pieces. In this case, this jacquard
may if desired work the pile-warp, concurrently, with the plates which may work
the healds with boards of the ground warps, and this pile warp is wound, at each
piece, upon a winding frame composed of as many small spools or bobbins as there
are threads, each of these threads obeying a regular shortening or feeding of the
warp by the use of a compensating weight.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-
:-
The use in the jacquard loom of two hooks or lifting wires to each heald, of
unequal height, set upon a single grif or leash-box, both tied together by a cord,

page_text: the one being at rest while the other is in play, the cord carrying, fixed to its
middle, a small metal loop or eye to which is attached the heald thread; this
metal loop or eye as the cord plays placing itself at the requisite levels to produce
the double opening of the warp, by the aid of a metal cylinder supported by the
row of cords, and which the pull of the cord causes to roll in an ascending
and descending movement; the whole substantially as above described, for the
manufacture of double piece figured woven fabrics, and particularly figured velvet.
Dated this Fifth day of Anil 1904