AN IMPROVED TEXTURE OF THE LACE NET HITHERTO CALLED BOBBIN NET, OR TWIST NET, AND ALSO CERTAIN IMPROVE- MENTS IN LACE MACHINERY, IN ORDER TO PRODUCE LACE NET WITH THE SAID IMPROVED TEXTURE, EITHER PLAIN OR ORNAMENTED
Year: 1834

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
BERTIE, of Basford, in the County of Nottingham, Machinist, for myself and
for JAMES GIBBONS, of Radford, in the same County, Machinist, send
greeting.
WHEREAS we did, by Petition, humbly represent unto His present
most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth, that after considerable
application and expense, we had invented "AN IMPROVED TEXTURE OF THE LACE
NET HITHERTO CALLED BOBBIN NET, OR TWIST NET, AND ALSO CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MENTS IN LACE MACHINERY, IN ORDER TO PRODUCE LACE NET WITH THE SAID
IMPROVED TEXTURE, EITHER PLAIN OR ORNAMENTED;" and His said Majesty,
being willing to give encouragement to all arts and inventions which may
be for the public good, was graciously pleased, by His Royal Letters Patent
under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
bearing date at Westminster, the Fifth day of June last, (One thousand eight
hundred and thirty-four), in the fourth year of His reign, for Himself,
His heirs and successors, to give and grant unto us, the said John Bertie
and James Gibbons, our executors, administrators, and assigns, His especial
licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that we, or they, by ourselves
or themselves, or by our or their deputies, servants, or agents, or such others
as we or they should agree with (and no others), during the term of fourteen
years from the date of the said Letters Patent, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend our said Invention within that part of His
said Majesty's Dominions called England, Wales, and Town of Berwick-

page_text: upon-Tweed, and also in all His Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad;
in such manner as to us, our executors, administrators, and assigns, shall
seem meet, and as that we or they shall enjoy the whole profit and advan-
tage arising by reason of the said Invention during the said term of fourteen
years; and for that end His said Majesty requires and strictly commands all Iis
subjects whatsoever, that they shall not, neither directly nor indirectly, make,
use, or put in practice our said Invention, or any part thereof, nor in anywise
counterfeit, imitate, or resemble the same, nor make any addition thereto or
subtraction therefrom, whereby to pretend himself or themselves to be the
inventor or inventors thereof; and whereas the said Letters Patent contain
a proviso obliging us, the said John Bertie and James Gibbons, particu-
larly to describe and ascertain the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under our
hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us, and to cause the
same to be inrolled in His Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent, as in and by the same (reference being thereunto had) will more
fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that, in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
John Bertic, for myself and for the said James Gibbons, do hereby declare
that our said Invention is described and ascertained in manner following, and
by the aid of the six Sheets of Drawings hereunto annexed, that is to say:
Our improved texture of the lace net hitherto called bobbin net or
twist net has very nearly the same appearance and useful properties as
the said lace net hitherto called bobbin net or twist net, whereof the
chief distinction from other kinds of machine-made lace net (such as
those kinds which are called warp net and point net) is, that such
bobbin net contains a series of traversing threads, which proceed in diagonal
directions obliquely across the width of the net, from selvidge to selvidge
thereof, with contrary obliquitics of diagonal direction, so that the traversing
threads will mutually intersect and cross each other at every part of the net
in proceeding with opposite obliquities, as aforesaid, in their respective
traversing directions; and the said traversing threads will also cross and
intersect the longitudinal threads which proceed parallel to each other along
the length of the piece of net, and the said traversing threads being twisted
around or intertwisted with the said longitudinal threads at every placo
where the two kinds of threads cross and intersect each other, all the longi-
tudinal threads and diagonal threads are thereby united into a firm texturo
of net work, consisting of meshes of a hexagonal form, in each of which

page_text: meshes four out of six of the sides of the hexagon are composed of twists
formed by the said intertwisting of longitudinal and diagonal threads, and the
two other sides, videlicet, the top and bottom of each hexagon, are formed by the
oblique crossing of two diagonal threads, which are proceeding across the width
of the net with contrary obliquities, from selvedge to selvedge, and which
traversing threads when they arrive at each selvedge, return around the selvedge
in order to begin to traverse the width of the net again, but with a contrary
obliquity of diagonal direction to that in which they traversed before; and note,
the returning of the said traversing threads around the extreme longitudinal
threads at the borders or selvedges of the piece of net forms the selvedges
thereto, which selvedges are secure from unravelling. In our said improved
texture of such lace net there are no such traversing threads from selvedge to
selvedge, but all the threads whereof the net is composed proceed in a longi-
tudinal direction along the lengths of the piece, that is, one half of the
number of threads take a direction in the piece exactly similar to the longi-
tudinal threads of ordinary bobbin net, and the other half of the number of
threads proceed by parallel zig-zag courses along the length of the piece of
net, but nevertheless by the zig-zag flexures to the said last-mentioned threads,
they proceed in diagonal directions for short distances, not exceeding the
width of one hexagonal mesh of the net, and then return with contrary
obliquity, but only for like short distances before they make another return.
The four twisted sides sides of each hexagonal mesh (which may be called
the pillars thereof) are exactly the same, according to our improved texture,
as in the ordinary texture of bobbin net or twist net, wherefore lace net of
our said improved texture may with strict propriety be called twist net; and
it may with equal propriety be called bobbin net, because the same kind of
bobbins are used in its fabrication as are commonly used in making bobbin
net of the ordinary texture; but in place of the crosses of the diagonal
traversing threads with which the pillars are united, and the meshes closed
in at top and at bottom of each hexagonal mesh of ordinary bobbin net in
our improved texture thereof, those threads which proceed zig-zag along the
length of the piece loop or link together around each other, so as to couple
the adjacent twisted pillars together, and then, after so linking and coupling
they turn back again along their zig-zag courses with opposite obliquities,
instead of merely crossing over each other, and continuing forwards in
their respective diagonal directions, as the traversing threads in the ordinary
texture of bobbin net do.
Sheet I. of the Drawings hereunto annexed, contains a magnified repre-
sentation of the meshes of lace net made according to our said improved

page_text: texture, and the different threads being distinguished by different colours, it is
easy to trace the courses which they take in the texture of the network; and by
comparing that Drawing with the ordinary texture of bobbin net, the differenco
between that and our improved texture will bo apparent. That differenco
consists in the substitution of looped or linked couplings in lien of simple
crosses to couple the twisted pillars together and forin the top and bottom of
each hexagonal mesh. And it is a consequence of that substitution that the
threads which are so coupled by linking or looping them together will not
traverse the width of the piece of net, for after having twisted around their
corresponding longitudinal threads to form parts of the pillars of the hexagonal
meshes, they will only proceed dingonally for short distances, not more than
half the width of one mesh, one coupling thread proceeding diagonally from
the right hand towards the left hand, and the other neighbouring coupling
thrend in a contrary direction, so that they will meet in order to make their
linked coupling which is to unite the twists which have been recently made in
part of the pillars of the meshes, and then the two coupled threads return,
each one with a contrary obliquity to that which brought them together, in
order that each one may go back to its own corresponding longitudinal
thread, in order to twist again around the same and form a further part of
the twisted pillars of the meshes, which being done by each coupling thread
respectively, it then proceeds forwards in the same diagonal direction that each
one proceeded with before the twisting began, but having so proceeded as far
as the width of half a mesh each one will meet with another neighbouring
coupling thread which has also advanced in a diagonal direction for the purpose
of again meeting and linking or coupling together the twists which have been
recently formed. But note, each coupling thread is thus linked with its
neighbouring coupling thread on its right-hand side at one time of coupling.
and with its neighbouring coupling thread on its left-hand side at the next
succeeding time of coupling, and then, after that last-mentioned coupling has
been made, each one returns with a contrary obliquity to that which it had
before the coupling took place (and which brought them together), whereby
it will again meet with its own corresponding longitudinal thread, and by
twisting around the same will form a further part of the pillars of the meshes,
and after so twisting will proceed forwards in the same oblique direction that
it had before the twisting began for a distance equal to half the width of one
mesh, when it will meet with its neighbouring coupling thread on the other
hand side to that neighbour with which it linked at the last time of coupling,
the said first-mentioned neighbouring coupling thread having made a like
advance obliquely for the purpose of so meeting, and then the said two

page_text: neighbouring coupling threads which have so met link or loop together in
order to couple the recently-made twists together. The pair of coupling
threads which thus meet and link together at each time are the same two
threads which linked together at the last time but one of coupling, not at the
Jast time of coupling. Each coupling thread twists with the same longi-
tudinal thread at every succeeding time of twisting, and never twists with any
other longitudinal thread, but each coupling thread links with its two neigh-
bouring coupling threads in turn, but never with any others; videlicet, at one
time of coupling it links with its neighbour on its right-hand side, and
then, at the next succeeding time of coupling it links with its neighbour
on its left-hand side, and so on alternately return to link with its right-hand
neighbour after having linked with its left-hand neighbour. The result of
this mode of linked or looped couplings is that the coupling threads procced
along the length of the piece of net, from one end thereof to the other, by
longitudinal zig-zag courses which never deviate from straight courses
more more than half the width of a hexagonal mesh on one side, and
half the width of a hexagonal mesh on the opposite side, so that the
deviation in the whole is equal to the width of a hexagonal mesh.
The longitudinal threads proceed along the length of the piece of net, end
to end thereof, by longitudinal waving courses, with only slight deviations
from straight courses, being only as much as is requisite to give to the
twists the inclinations which they must assume in becoming the twisted
pillars of the hexagonal meshes. The said moving courses of the longitudinal
threads is precisely the same in our said improved texture of lace net as
in ordinary texture of bobbin net, the difference between the two being in
the longitudinal zig-zag courses by which the coupling threads proceed
along the piece, looping and coupling with each other as they proceed,
instead of the diagonal courses by which the traversing threads of ordinary
bobbin net proceed with contrary obliquities across the width of the piece,
from selvedge to selvedge thereof. In lace net, which is made with our
improved texture, the coupling threads should be finer than the longitudinal
threads, because the linking or looping of two coupling threads which form
the top and bottom of each hexagonal mesh does not unite the two threads so
closely together as the twisting unites the two threads which form the pillars
of the same meshes, and that circumstance is to be met by using finer thread
for making the loops, the same as is usually done in the ordinary texture
of bobbin net, wherein the traversing threads are commonly finer than
the longitudinal threads; but in our improved texture a somewhat greater
difference of fineness between the two sorts of threads may be advisable,

page_text: in order to present the same appearance to the eye, because the linking or
looping of two threads shews somewhat more surface than the mere crossing
of two threails. We have found that lace net of our improved texture
will have the same appearance as bobbin net of the ordinary texture, and
of the same gage or fineness of its meshes, when the longitudinal threads
are what is termed number 170 hanks cotton (being eight hundred and forty
impérial yards in each hank, and one hundred and seventy such hanks
to weigh one pound avoirdupois), and the coupling threads number 200 cotton;
the machinery on which such net is made being what is called eleven point,
because there are eleven taking up points in every inch of their respective
rows. The selvedges or edges of pieces of lace net which are made according
to our said improved texture will be similar to the selvedges of bobbin net
of the ordinary texture, and may in like manner have strong edging threads,
as is represented in the Drawing, in order to fortify the selvedges and enable
them to endure the tension of extending the net in the operation of getting
up and finishing in a drying frame. And whereas when the wide lace net
which is woven in the machinery is required to be afterwards slit up or
divided into narrow ribbands of lace net called breadthis, each breadth
having firm selvedges at each of its edges which will not unravel, the
several breadths are usually kept together during the operation of weaving
bobbin net of the ordinary texture in the machinery, as well as in the
subsequent operation of getting up and finishing the said bobbin net, by means
of extra threads which are called lacing threads, and which are intro-
duced by the operation of the machinery for the purpose of joining the
selvedges of the adjoining breadths together whilst they are weaving therein,
but which lacing threads can be afterwards drawn out in order to separate
the breadths. The same effect can be produced in lace net which is made
according to our improved texture, by merely leaving out one of the longi-
tudinal threads at every place in the width of the machinery where a division
is intended to be made between two adjacent breadths, and then that coupling
thread, corresponding to the longitudinal thread which is so left out (and
which coupling thread would have been twisted around that longitudinal
thread if it had not been so left out), will then form a lacing thread to unite
the selvedge of the two adjacent breadths together in the manner which is
represented in the Drawing; and the said coupling thread, which is become a
lacing thread, can be drawn out in order to separate the breadths when
required. And our improvements in lace machinery, in order to produce lace
net with the said improved texture, consists in certain modes of actuating
those parts of existing lace machinery (or of machinery similarly constructed),

page_text: which parts are immediately operative upon the threads, so that they will
weave twist lace net with our said improved texture in lieu of twist lace net
of the ordinary texture of bobbin net lace.
And whereas we have herein-before fully explained the difference between
our said improved texture and the ordinary texture of bobbin net lace to
consist in the substitution of couplings threads, which proceed along the
length of the piece of twist lace net by longitudinal zig-zag courses, and
which in so proceeding form linked or looped couplings suitably for uniting
the ordinary twisted pillars together into the form of hexagonal meshes in lieu
of traversing threads, which proceed in diagonal courses from selvedge to
selvedge with contrary obliquities, and in so proceeding form oblique crosses
suitably for uniting the said ordinary twisted pillars together into a like form of
hexagonal meshes. Our said improvements in lace machinery are expedients
to adapt the operation of the operative parts of such machinery to suit the
said difference in the disposition and arrangement which it is required to give
to the threads on which those parts are intended to operate. And whereas in
all bobbin net machinery hitherto constructed the most troublesome parts of
its movements and operations are those whereby the traversing threads are
intended to proceed with contrary obliquities of diagonal direction, and to
change those directions and begin to return with contrary obliquities whenever
by their progress of traversing they arrive at any selvedges, whether those
selvidges are at the extreme borders of the whole width of the texture or
piece of net which is weaving at once in the machinery, or at any of those
intermediate selvidges which may be required in the said whole width in
order that the net may be afterwards divided into narrow breadths. And
whereas it is the necessity of performing the said traversing operations
which is the greatest impediment to quick working of bobbin net lace
machinery, and the most frequent cause of hindrance and stoppage in con-
sequence of derangement of the parts, our said improvements in such machi-
nery will facilitate the operation of weaving twist lace net by substituting our
improved texture for the ordinary texture of bobbin net lace, and thereby avoiding
the necessity for any traversing operations. The means whereby our said im-
provements in lace machinery are to be carried into effect must vary according
to the kind of such machinery to which our said improvements are to be
applied, but by way of explanation of such means I shall first explain our said
improvements as applied to the machinery commonly known by the name.
of Lever's machinery, which is of the class of single tier machinery, that
is, the whole number of bobbin carriages which are working in the machine to
supply the traversing threads of the bobbin net are arranged in one row, and

page_text: the whole of the warp threads which are to supply the longitudinal threads
of the bobbin net are arranged through the eyes of one row of guides. Also
when the bobbin carriages are passed between the guide threads, the whole
number of bobbin carriages make their passage between the whole number
of guide threads at once, and in the process of making bobbin net lace of the
ordinary texture by such machinery the carriages are traversed occasionally,
but in preparation for such traversing, the whole row of carriages must be
divided into two rows, each row or division consisting of every alternate carriage
in the whole row; and when the two divisions are separated one half of
them makes a step towards the right hand, and the other a like step towards
the left hand, in order to produce the crossings of the bobbin threads, which
are to form the tops and bottoms of the hexagonal meshes. But when our
said improved texture of twist lace net is to be made by such Lever's
machinery, the traversing operation and the dividing of the carriages in
preparation for that operation becomes unnecessary, and therefore all the
mechanism which is provided for such dividing may be totally removed from
the machine. Those parts are the two bars called pusher or divider bars,
with all their appurtenances for sustaining, guiding, and actuating them.
And the following alterations must also be made in the Lever's machine in
order to produce lace net of our improved texture by working the altered
machinery in the mode which will be herein-after explained; videlicet, the
front comb bar must be made fast by setting its gage screws so as to confine
it from rocking and keep it stationary, with its geats or spaces between the
combs in due correspondence with those of the back combs, and the comb bar
wheel with its bolt and connexions for racking the front comb bar must be
removed or disconnected. If the Lever's machine has been used for making
narrow breadths of bobbin net lace, the turn-again combs and their bar must
be removed, and the vacant spaces which their removal will leave in the row
of back combs must be filled up by casting the back combs anew in one
unbroken row, the same as is usual in Lever's machines for making wide pieces
of bobbin net. The selvedgo guides, with their selvedge guide bars, must be
removed entirely, and the racking wheel for the same will become useless.
The ratchet wheel on the axis of the racking wheel, which commonly has
eight teeth in Lover's machines, must be changed for a new ratchet whoel with
only six teeth, as shown full sizo in Sheet II. of the Drawings hereunto
annexed. The catch bar wheels for lifting and letting fall the catch bars,
with their ratchet wheels, must also be removed and others substituted, which
are cut with their notches, as represented in Sheet II., suitably for producing
a regular succession of alternate rising and falling motions of each catch bar.

page_text: The usual pump handle lever by which the back catch bar is lifted or let
fall, when either of the point bars como down and go up again, must be discon-
nected from both the point bars, being useless. The usual half way or dividing
stop which is provided for the purpose of detaining the landing bars from open-
ing beyond the proper dividing position when the catch bars are to be let fall
into the notches of the divided carriages must be adjusted so that it will catch
and detain the back landing bar when the two landing bars are quite down or
closed together as far as their rapping screws will permit, that is, at the usual
position for exchanging catch bars instead of detaining the landing bars when
they are a little separated as usual. The ratchet wheel at the back of tho
machine, which takes the said half way or dividing stop out of action whenever
the point bars take up the meshes of the net, must be removed and another
substituted with only six teeth instead of eight teeth as usual, but it is to be
turned in the usual manner by the usual driver attached to the back landing
bar, and is to have two other extra drivers, as usual, one connected with cach
point bar, in order to give the said ratchet wheel of six teeth an extra motion
or nudge at the moment when either of the point bars have taken up the
meshes of the net, so as by that nudge to remove the dividing stop after it has
been let into action, so as to have caught and detained the landing bars at the
proper moment for taking up, so as to indicate to the workman when he ought
to use the treadles for taking up by the points, and to prevent the machine
being worked improperly by neglecting to take up at the proper moment,
because the said stop will detain the machinery from moving at all until the
taking up has been properly performed, all which parts are to operate just
as usual in common Lever's machines. The point bars must be adapted to
come down lower than usual in the act of taking up, because they must take
up all the twist instead of their usual action of what is termed hugging
the twist, and for that purpose the points must be made to descend nearly as
low down as the tops of the bobbin carriages. This alteration may require the
points to be new cast in leads, which are cranked downwards in the form
represented at E, Sheet II., and a lead is shewn separately at Figure E,
Sheet I.; also the stopping or rapping screws, which are provided at the back
of the machines to limit the rising and falling motions of the point bars must
be suitably regulated, and likewise the connecting levers which transmit the
motion of the treadles to the point bars may be altered in their lengths
so much as that the usual extent or depth of treading motion will produce the
requisite motion of the point bars. The usual row of leads of single tier guides
must be removed from the guide bar, and a new set substituted, which are
only half as numerous in any given width as in Lever's machinery, but which

page_text: are the same as in double tier machinery. The guides which are commonly used
in warp frames may be used, see a representation of a lead of such guides in
Sheet II.
. Another guide bar must be introduced in the manner represented in
the section, Sheet II., being furnished with a row of like guides of doublo
tier gage, so that the two rows of guides will stand the same as usual in
double tier machines, and the two comb bars must be suitably adjusted in
respect to the two rows of guides, in order to put the two rows of combs at a
proper distance asunder, to leave room for the two rows of warp threads to
pass up between the two rows of combs, as represented in the section,
Sheet II., in such manner that the two rows of guides may be racked inde-
pendently one of the other, as in double tier machinery. The ordinary racking
wheel for the guide bar must be removed from the axis of the racking wheels,
and two other racking wheels substituted each with six places, where steps or
rises and falls are to be made corresponding with the six teeth of the ratchet
wheel, cach of the said racking wheels being cut with notches into the form
represented in Sheet II., one for racking the front guide bar, and the other for
racking the back guide bar with suitable racking motions for producing twist
lace net with our said improved texture. An additional warp roller must also
be applied to supply warp threads to the additional row of back guides; the
usual warp roller may be used to supply warp threads to the row of front
guides;
each of the said warp rollers having only half the usual number of
threads warped upon it, and each of them must be suitably placed in the
machinery so as not to interfere one with the other; and hence, if the original
warp roller is of a large size it may be proper to change it for a smaller one.
The above-mentioned alterations being made in the ordinary Lever's
machine in preparation for working the same according to our said improve-
ments, the warp threads are to be inserted through the eyes of the two
rows of guides, in the same manner as is usual in double tier machinery
(excepting being supplied from two warp rollers instead of one warp roller).
The warp roller which supplies the front guido threads is to be weighed, the
same as is usually done for making bobbin net lace of the ordinary texture,
because the threads which are supplied from that roller will form longitudinal
threads in the lace, having exactly the same direction in the piece of net as the
longitudinal threads in the ordinary texture of bobbin net; but as that front warp
roller contains only half the number of threads that are required for the longi.
tudinal threads in the lace, the other half of the requisite number of longitudinal
threads are to be supplied from the bobbins, that is, every alternate bobbin car-
riage in the complete row of bobbin carriages will supply a longitudinal thread,

page_text: and the springs of those carriages must be set so as to give all those bobbin threads
in equal tensions to the tension of the front guide threads of the front warp roller,
and the same as they would be for making bobbin net lace of the ordinary
texture. The other intermediate carriages in the said row supply one half of
the coupling threads, which, by their looped or linked couplings, are to close
in the tops and bottoms of the hexagonal meshes, as herein-before stated, and
those carriages must have their springs set so as to give rather more tension to
their bobbin threads in drawing off than is given to the other bobbin threads.
The other half of the coupling threads are supplied from the back warp roller
by the guidance of the back row of guides, and that roller must be weighted
rather heavier than the front warp roller, or heavier than is usual for the guide
threads, in making bobbin net lace of the ordinary texture, but so that the
back guide threads will draw off with a tension exactly equal to the tension
of the aforesaid bobbin threads, which are to form the other half of the
requisite number of coupling threads. And note, in consequence of the
linked couplings the coupling threads will require a greater length of thread
to be worked up in making any given length of net than the longitudinal
threads will require to be worked up in the same time; wherefore in machines
which are made on purpose to be worked according to our said improvements,
the bobbins which supply those coupling threads may be made a little larger
than the other bobbins, which supply longitudinal threads. And the same
of the two warp rollers, in order that the bobbins and rollers may continue to
supply threads of one kind as long as those of the other. The proportionate
quantities or lengths of the longitudinal threads and coupling threads which
are required for making lace net of our improved texture will be nearly the
same as the proportionate lengths or quantities required for the longitudinal
threads and traversing threads in bobbin net of the ordinary texture, and, as
herein-before mentioned, the coupling threads may be rather finer than the
longitudinal threads.
And for explaining the mode of working the altered machine according
to our said improvements:-Suppose the machine to have been brought
into regular work, aud having already some lace net of our improved texture
wound up around its lace roller, I will commence the explanation at that
period when the meshes, of the net have been recently taken up with the
front points, which was done when the carriages were all in their central
position, and interspaced amongst the guide threads, as is represented in the
section, Sheet II., and that the carriages have since been brought forwards
into the front combs, and also that the ratchet wheel for the racking wheels
bas been just turned with a sudden motion to tooth Number 1, in which situa-

page_text: and the springs of those carriages must be set so as to give all those bobbin threads
in equal tensions to the tension of the front guide threads of the front warp roller,
and the same as they would be for making bobbin net lace of the ordinary
texture. The other intermediate carriages in the said row supply one half of
the coupling threads, which, by their looped or linked couplings, are to close
in the tops and bottoms of the hexagonal meshes, as herein-before stated, and
those carriages must have their springs set so as to give rather more tension to
their bobbin threads in drawing off than is given to the other bobbin threads.
The other half of the coupling threads are supplied from the back warp roller
by the guidance of the back row of guides, and that roller must be weighted
rather heavier than the front warp roller, or heavier than is usual for the guide
threads, in making bobbin net lace of the ordinary texture, but so that the
back guide threads will draw off with a tension exactly equal to the tension
of the aforesaid bobbin threads, which are to form the other half of the
requisite number of coupling threads. And note, in consequence of the
linked couplings the coupling threads will require a greater length of thread
to be worked up in making any given length of net than the longitudinal
threads will require to be worked up in the same time; wherefore in machines
which are made on purpose to be worked according to our said improvements,
the bobbins which supply those coupling threads may be made a little larger
than the other bobbins, which supply longitudinal threads. And the same
of the two warp rollers, in order that the bobbins and rollers may continue to
supply threads of one kind as long as those of the other. The proportionate
quantities or lengths of the longitudinal threads and coupling threads which
are required for making lace net of our improved texture will be nearly tho
same as the proportionate lengths or quantities required for the longitudinal
threads and traversing threads in bobbin net of the ordinary texture, and, as
herein-before mentioned, the coupling threads may be rather finer than the
longitudinal threads.
And for explaining the mode of working the altered machine according
to our said improvements :-Suppose the machine to have been brought
into regular work, aud having already some lace net of our improved texture
wound up around its lace roller, I will commence the explanation at that
period when the meshes of the net have been recently taken up with the
front points, which was done when the carriages were all in their central
position, and interspaced amongst the guide threads, as is represented in the
section, Sheet II., and that the carriages have since been brought forwards
into the front combs, and also that the ratchet wheel for the racking wheels
has been just turned with a sudden motion to tooth Number 1, in which situa-

page_text: tion both the guide bars stand racked to the right as far as they can go that
way, the front guido bar being capable of being racked by its racking wheel a
distance equal to one space or geat of the single tier combs from its present
position towards the left-hand, and tho back guide bar being capable of being
racked by its racking wheel three such spaces from its present position
towards the left haud. And note, although the two rows of guides stand in
the same relative situations in respect to each other as the two rows of guides
in ordinary double-tier machinery (as already mentioned), nevertheless the
threads of one row are not always disposed (by the racking wheels) exactly
one behind the threads of the other, as in double-tier machinery, but the
threads of the front row of guides are sometimes placed opposite to the
spaces between the threads of the back row of guides, so as to appear
to the eye in front the same as the row of threads in Lever's machinery,
single gage, shewing the whole number of guide threads at once ready pre-
pared for the whole row of carriages to go through between them, and every
carriage will pass through the spaco between two adjacent guide threads.
The places marked Number 1 in all the several ratchet wheels and racking
wheels delineated in Sheet II. are now in action. The front catch bar is let
down into the front notches of the carriages, but the back catch bar is raised
up and out of action. The back or half way stop is now held out of action
by its own notched wheel. All the parts being in the above-mentioned state,
the handles of the front landing bar are to be put down, in order to close or
approach the two landing bars and catch bars in front and at the back
towards each other, thereby putting the carriages through between the threads,
and when they get to the central position, the two catch bar wheels are turned
round each one tooth with a sudden motion, whereby one lets the back catch
bar drop into the back notches of the carriages, whilst the other raises up the
front catch bar out of the front notches of the carriages, which being done,
the handles are raised, and the landing bars and catch bars in front and at
the back are extended mutually from each other, thereby drawing the carriage
through between the guide threads into the back combs, quite clear behind
the guide threads, and then the usual choppers or driver of the racking wheels
turns their ratchet wheel with a sudden motion to tooth Number 2, whereby
the front row of guides is racked one space to the left, and the back row of
guides two spaces to the left. Note, the driver which is attached to the back
landing bar also turns the ratchet wheel for the back or half way stop one
tooth at the same time, and that motion causes the half way stop to be
brought into a proper position by its own notched wheel for acting at
the next turn to catch and detain the landing bars as soon as they aro

page_text: closed. Then, by putting down the handles and closing the two landing bars
and catch bars together, the carriages0are all brought forwards between the
recently racked guide threads to their central position, and on arriving there
the two catch bar wheels are turned round one tooth each with a sudden
motion, whereby the front catch bar is let fall into the front notches of the
carriages, and the back catch bar is lifted up out of the back notches. Tho
half way stop, which was put into action when tooth 2 was racked, as above
stated, catches the back landing bar as soon as the carriages arrive at their
central position, and it detains the handles from moving until after the newly
formed meshes of the net have been taken up with the back points, by the
foot pressing on the left treadle, which pressure brings down the back points,
their caster back withdrawing them from the meshes of the net as soon as
they first began to go down, and when they get down nearly as low as the top
of the carriages, then their caster back allows them to drop in between the
bobbin threads and guide threads, whilst the same are standing all in one
row, and then, by releasing the left foot, the back points go up again, taking
up the last made twists of the bobbin and guide threads, as well as the linked
or looped couplings, which the coupling bobbin threads have recently made around
the back guide threads, and in going up the back points give the form of meshes
to those twists and couplings which they have taken up; which being done,
and the back points being nearly got up to their resting place, the driver
which is connected with the back points gives a small extra motion and
nudge to the back ratchet and notched wheel for the back or half way stop,
whereby its notched wheel is turned round so much as will cause that stop to be
removed out of action on the back landing bar, and then after that the handles
being raised, the landing bars and catch bars are extended, and thereby
the carriages are brought forwards into the front combs quite clear before
the warp threads, whereupon the chopper turns the ratchet wheel to tooth
Number 3, thereby racking the front guides one space to the right, and
the back guides one space to the right. Note, the back ratchet wheel for
the half way stop is also turned one tooth by its driver, which is attached
to the back landing bar, but that produces no effect upon the half way stop
at present. Then by pulling down the bandles and approaching the landing
bars towards each other, the carriages are put back again through between the
recently racked guide threads, and when they get to their central position the
back catch bar is let fall into the back notches of the carriages, and the front
catch bar is raised out of the front notches thereof by their respective catch
bar wheels. After which, by extending the landing bars, the carriages are
taken back into the back combs, clear behind the guide threads, and the

page_text: chopper turns the ratchet wheel to tooth Number 4, racking the front guides
one space to the left, and the back guides two spaces to the left, by which
latter racking the coupling threads in the back guides are prepared to have the
coupling threads in the row of bobbins linked or looped around them at the
next succeeding time of bringing the carriages forwards between the two rows
of guide threads, which is done by approaching the landing bars, and bringing
the carriages forwards through between the guide threads into their central
position, when the front catch bar is let fall and the back one raised, and then
by raising the handles all the carriages will be drawn into the front combs
quite clear of those threads, whereupon the chopper turns the ratchet wheel
to tooth Number 5, by which the front guides are racked one space to the
right, and the back guides two spaces to the right. Tho ratchet wheel of the
back stop is also turned one tooth, but does not make any alteration in the
situation of that back stop at present; then by putting down the handles the
carriages are put back again between the racked threads, the back catch bar
is let fall, and the front one raised; after which, by again extending the
landing bars, the carriages are all taken quite through into the back combs,
clear behind the guide threads, and the chopper turns the ratchet wheel to
tooth Number 6, by which the front guides are racked one space to the left,
and back guides one space to the left. The ratchet wheel of tho back stop
being also turned one tooth, at the same time permits the back stop to assume
a proper position for acting, to detain the landing bars the next time they
are closed; then by closing the landing bars, the carriages are brought
forwards between the guide threads to their central position, where the front
catch bar is let fall, and the back one raised by their respective catch bar
wheels. The half way or back stop catches the back landing bar as soon
the carriages get to their central position, and detains them there until after
the newly formed meshes of the net have been taken up with the front points,
which is done by pressing down the right treadle, and when the front points
begin to go down, their caster back withdraws them from the finished meshes
of the net, and when the front points have descended nearly to the tops of the
carriages, their caster back allows them to penetrate between the guide threads
and bobbin threads, which are then standing all in one row, after which by
releasing the right treadle the front points go up again, taking up the last
made twists and recently formed linked couplings, so as to give the form of
meshes thereto. And when the front points get nearly up, their driver gives
a nudge to the ratchet wheel of the back or half way stop, turning the notched
wheel thereof so far round as will remove the back stop out of action upon
the back landing bar, so that it will no longer detain the same, and then by

page_text: raising the handles and extending the landing bars the carriages are brought
forwards clear of the guide threads into the front combs, whereupon the chopper
turns the ratchet wheel to tooth Number 1, which racks the front guides one
space to the right, and the back guides two spaces to the right. The ratchet wheel
of the back or half. way stop is also turned, but without producing any effect at
present. All the parts have now regained the positions which they had at the
period chosen for commencement of this description, and the operation of
weaving lace net of our said improved texture is a continual repetition of the
movements already explained. It should be observed that the linked or
looped couplings which are required to be made by the coupling threads, in
order to close in the meshes of the net and form the tops and bottoms of their
hexagons, are repeated twice in working a row of complete meshes in the
manner above described, videlicet, at the commencement of the description.
When all the carriages are in one row in the front combs, and the back
row of guide threads (which are all coupling threads), have been recently
racked two spaces to the right in racking tooth Number 1, that motion
carried each of the back guide coupling threads to the fullest extent of
its zig-zag flexure towards the right hand, beyond the straight line of its
longitudinal course along the piece of net, and then when the carriages
are brought through between the guide threads into the front combs, each
coupling thread in the row of bobbins will form linked or looped couplings
with one of the coupling threads in the back row of guides. The couplings
thus made are marked R in the Drawing of the network, Sheet I.,
and the couplings thus formed will be taken up by the back points, after
racking tooth Number 2, very soon after the said couplings have been so
formed. And again when all the carriages are in one row in the back combs,
and the back row of coupling guide threads is racked two spaces to the left in
racking tooth Number 4, then on the carriages being brought forwards again,
each coupling thread in the row of bobbins will form a linked or looped
coupling with one of the coupling threads in the row of back guides, because
the said racking motion on tooth Number 4 will have carried each of the
coupling threads in the back row of guides to the full extent of the zig-zag
flexure towards the left, beyond the straight line of its longitudinal course
along the piece of net. The couplings which are thus formed are marked L in
Sheet I., and the couplings thus formed will be taken up by the front points
after racking tooth 6, very soon after the said couplings have been so
formed. And note, the points will not hug the twists when the machine
is working in the manner above described, but will take up all the twists.
The lace roller is turned round by the usual kind of wheelwork during

page_text: the working of the machine, so as to wind up the lace as fast as it is made by
the operation above described. If the winding up motion for so turning
the lace roller is derived from the taking up motion of the point bars,
as is represented in the Drawings, and it is the usual mode of working
Lever's machines to make bobbin net lace of the ordinary texture, no
alteration will be required in the machinery; but if the winding up
motion is derived from the axis of racking wheels, as is done in some kind
of laco machinery, then alteration may be required to be made therein
to suit the circumstance of the racking wheels going round once in six
motions, instead of once in eight motions. And in order to produce such
lace net of our said improved texture in breadths, that is, narrow bands
or stripes united by lacing threads which can be withdrawn after the net is
finished, so as to separate the breadths from each other, the samo can be
done by leaving out one front guide thread at every place in the width of the net
where a separation is required to be made for the purpose of afterwards
dividing the net into breadths. In that case those coupling threads in
the rows of bobbins which, in performing the motions already described,
would twist around the said front guide threads which are so left out, becomo
lacing threads, in consequence of the absence of the said threads, so as to
unite the breadths together in the manner represented in Sheet I. The
two neighbouring coupling threads to each such lacing thread will then
form the selvedges of the two adjacent breadths by twisting around their
own two longitudinal threads which belong to the longitudinal bobbin threads,
and which are adjacent to the lacing thread on the right and the left
thereof, and the lacing thread, in pursuing its own zig-zag course, such as
herein-before described, which it would take as one of the coupling threads,
will go first to the right and then to the left, to form linked couplings with
the said selvedge threads. And note, in order to be able to make neat
selvedges it will be advisable. to supply the back guide selvedge threads of tho
several breadths either from separate bobbins or else from a separate roller
so distinct from the principal warp roller for the back guides as to admit of
being weighted differently, in order to draw off the longitudinal selvedge
threads with more or less tension, as may be found expedient to produce
the most desirable appearance in the selvedges, in the same manner as is
commonly done in making breadths of bobbin net of the ordinary texture,
except that in such case the selvedge threads of the breadths require to
be threaded through selvedge guides which are fixed on a selvedge guide
bar, which is capable of racking motions by a racking wheel of its own,
independently of the racking motions of the principal guide, but no such

page_text: distinct guide bar is required for working according to our said improvements.
And so of the bobbins which supply the lacing threads, their springs may
be set differently from those of the other bobbins which supply coupling
threads in order to give so much tension to the lacing threads as will have the
best effect on the selvedge, and also the selvedge threads may be finer or
courser thread than the other bobbin threads, if that is thought desirable
for making neat selvedges, all which expedients will suggest themselves
to any competent workman who is accustomed to making breadths of bobbin
net lace of the ordinary texture. And note, the extreme selvedge threads
at the borders of the piece of lace net of our improved texture may be strong
threads, as represented in Sheel I., the same as are common in bobbin net
Jace of the ordinary texture, in order to fortify those borders that they may he
able to endure the force of extending the piece of net in the getting up frame, in
case it is required to get up and finish the lace net of our improved texture in the
same manner as is commonly done in bobbin net lace of the ordinary texture.
And respecting the mode of carrying our said improvements into effect
upon that kind of lace machinery which is commonly known by the name of
circular bolt or circular comb double tier machinery, wherein the bobbin
carriages are always divided into two rows or divisions, which are passed
between the two rows of guide threads one after the other, the following
alterations must be made in such lace machinery, in order to produce lace net
with our said improved texture by working the altered machinery in the
manner which will be herein-after explained; videlicet, the front bolt bar
or comb bar must be made fast by its gage screws, with its bolts or combs in
exact correspondence with those of the back bar, the racking wheel for the
said front comb bar being removed or disconnected, as before explained
respecting Lever's machinery. Note, the point bars in many circular bolt
er circular comb machines operate by the mode which is termed hugging the
twist; but whereas, according to our improvements the point bars operate by
the mode which is termed taking up all the twist, wherefore such alterations
must be made in the point bars and their necessary mechanism as may be
requisite, in order to qualify the point bars for so taking up all the twist.
The guide bars and their rows of guides, as they are usually made in double
tier machinery, will not require to be altered, but an additional warp roller
must be introduced, in order to supply one of the ordinary rows of guides with
threads, the other warp roller supplying the other row of ordinary guides with
threads, and each of the two warp rollers having only half as many threads
warped upon it as are usually warped on one roller for making net of the
ordinary texture of bobbin net lace. The front row of guides is threaded with

page_text: The
threads supplied by one of the two warp rollers, which threads are to become
longitudinal threads in the lace net of our improved texture, and the back row
of guides is threaded with threads supplied by the other of the two warp rollers,
which threads are to become coupling threads in the said improved texture,
all which, as well as the regulation of the tensions of the several kinds
of threads, is the same as has been already explained respecting Lever's
machinery, and does not require to be repeated. And note, the front row
of bobbins in the bobbin carriages will supply coupling threads, and the back
row of bobbins in the bobbin carriages will supply longitudinal threads.
racking wheels of the two guide bars must be changed for two new ones,
which are cut with steps in the manner represented at the upper part of
Sheet VI., those racking wheels being turned by a ratchet wheel of twelve
teeth, as there shewn, if it is a hand circular bolt or circular comb machine;
but if it is what is termed a rotary circular bolt or circular comb machine
(that is, a machine in which requisite movements of all parts are derived from
the continuous turning motion of a revolving winch handle), the racking
wheels, although larger, must be cut with like steps, as is represented in the
lower part of Sheet VI., and those large racking wheels must be suitably con-
nected with the wheelwork of the revolving driving camins, or of the revolving
cranks by which the vibrating motions of the carriages are produced, so that
the said racking wheels will make one complete revolution during the time
that both rows of bobbin carriages perform three complete vibrations, that is
to say, both rows of the bobbin carriages must pass out of the front bolts or
combs into the back ones, and return again into the front ones three times suc-
cessively, whilst the racking wheels go once round cach row of bobbin carriages,
completing six successive passages between the warp threads, or in the whole
twelve passages made during that time. Note, those circular bolts or circular
comb machines with double bladed lockers, which are commonly called
Morley's machines, after the name of Mr. William Morley, who uses such
machines for making bobbin-net lace of the ordinary texture in his manu-
factory at Derby, have their racking wheels suitably timed as above, to make
one complete revolutions during six successive passages of both rows of the
bobbin carriages between the two rows of warp threads. And so also have
those circular comb machines for making bobbin-net laco of the ordinary
texture, which are called fluted roller or fluted bar machines, and for which
Messieurs Henson and Jackson, of Worcester, obtained a a Patent, dated
the Eleventh day of January, One thousand eight hundred and.twenty-five.
To commence the explanation of the mode of working such circular bolt
er circular comb double tier machinery, whether hand or rotary, according

page_text: to our said improvements, after the aforesaid alterations have been made in
such machinery, for the purpose of producing lace net with our said improved
texture, suppose the machine to have been brought into regular work,
having already some lace net of our improved texture wound up around its
lace roller; I will commence the explanation at that period of the operation
when the meshes of lace net of our improved texture which have been
recently made have been taken up by the front points, and both rows of
carriages are in the front bolts or combs, quite clear of both the rows of
guide threads, and in front of the same, which guide threads have just been
racked to step Number 1 of the several racking wheels, leaving the front
guide bar standing racked to the right, as far as it can go that way. Note,
it is only capable of being racked by its racking wheel a distance equal
to one space or geat of the double tier circular combs or circular bolts.
The front row of guide threads contain those warp threads which are to
form longitudinal threads in the lace net, in the manner herein-before
described respecting the application of our improvements to Lever's
machinery. The back guide bar is also standing racked to the right, as far
as it can go; it is capable of racking two spaces towards the left from its
present position. The back row of guides contains those threads which are
become coupling threads in the lace net of our improved texture, the same
as before explained respecting Lever's machinery.
.
The several racking wheels represented, Sheet VI., now present those
parts of their circumferences which are marked 1 to act upon their
respective racking bolts or racking levers. Setting off from the said
situation of the different parts as a commencement, the successive move-
ments of the parts are as follows:-The two rows of carriages begin their
vibrating motion by going backwards, whereby the back row of carriages
is passed through between the two rows of guide threads, and as soon as that
row of carriages gets through into the back combs or bolts, but before the
other row of carriages enters between the said guide threads, the racking
wheels will have gone round to Number 2, and will then rack the
back guides, with their coupling threads, one space to the left, but leave
the front guides as they were. Then the front row of carriages following
after the back row, is passed through between the two rows of guide threads,
and when they get through into the back combs or bolts, clear behind the
guide threads, so that both rows of carriages are behind the racking wheels
getting round to Number 3, rack the front guides one space to the left,
leaving the back guides as they were. After which the two rows of carriages
begin to return in their vibrating motion by coming forwards again, whereby

page_text: the front row of carriages is brought through between the two rows of guido
threads, and as soon as they get quite through into the front bolts or combs.
clear before the threads, but previous to the back row of carriages beginning
to enter between the threads, so that the front row of carriages is in the front
bolts or combs, and the back row of carriages in the back bolts or combs, then
the racking wheels having got round to Number 4, rack the front guides one
space to the right, leaving the back guides as they were. And note, by that time
the back points have begun to withdraw from the finished meshes of the net
in preparation for descending for the purpose of taking up again. Then the
back row of carriages, following after the front ones, is brought through
between the two rows of guide threads, and when they get quite into the front
bolts or combs clear before the threads, so that both rows of carriages are in
the front bolts or combs, the racking wheels getting round to Number 5, rack
the back guides one space to the right, leaving the front guides as they were.
Note, by this time the back points have descended as low as they are
required to go down, but they do not enter between the threads until just
after the racking of Number 5, and then having entered between the guide
threads they begin to go up again, and in rising at the same time that the
carriages are beginning to vibrate backwards, so as to meet the back points,
they enter between the back bobbin threads first, and then enter between the
front bobbin threads, and having thus secured all the threads the back points
go up, carrying up with them the couplings and twists which have been last
made, and giving them the intended form of hexagonal meshes. The carriages
vibrating backwards immediately after the the racking of Number 5, the
back carriages are passed through between the guide threads into the back
bolts or combs, the front carriages remaining in the front bolts or combs,
and the racking wheels get round to Number 6. but nevertheless they
leave both rows of guide bars as they were without racking either.
Note, by that time the back points will have been raised very nearly up to
their resting place in the net. Then the front carriages vibrating backwards,
after the back ones are passed between the guide threads into the back combs,
so that all the carriages get behind, and then the racking wheels getting to
Number 7, rack the front guides one space to the left, and the back guides
one space to the left. The carriages then begin to return by vibrating
forwards, whereby the front carriages are brought through forwards; and
when the front carriages get into the front bolts or combs, leaving the back car-
riages in the back bolts or combs, the racking wheels get round to Number S, and
rack the front guides one space to the right, leaving the back guides as they
And then the back carriages returning after the front ones are brought
were.

page_text: through forwards, and when all the carriages are in the front bolts or combs,
the racking wheels get to Number 9, and rack the back guides one space to the
right, leaving the front guides as they were. Then the carriages begin to vibrate
backwards, whereby the back carriages are passed between the guide threads,
and when they are in the back bolts or combs, leaving the front carriages in the
front bolts or combs, the racking wheels get to Number 10, and rack the back
guides one space to the left, leaving the front guides as they were. Note,
the front points were drawn out from the meshes of the net soon after
racking 9, and they began to descend so as to have got about half way down,
when 10 is racked. The front carriages vibrating backwards after the front
ones are passed between the guide threads, and when they get through, so
that both the rows of carriages are in the back bolts or combs, the racking
wheels get to Number 11, and rack the front guides one space to the left,
and the back guides also one space to the left, which puts them as far as they
can go that way. Note, the front points enter between the guide threads
just before 11 is racked, but they do not pass far enough through to reach
between any of the bobbin threads until after 11 is racked. The front
points begin to rise up again when the carriages begin to vibrate backwards,
so that the front points meet and enter between the front row of bobbin
threads first, and having so entered, the front points are shogged sideways by
means of what is called a conducting plate, about half a space before they
enter between the back row of bobbin threads, and having then secured all the
threads the front points are raised quite up, carrying up the couplings and
twist which have been last made, and giving them the intended form of
hexagonal meshes. The two rows of carriages begin to return by vibrating
forwards immediately after 11 is racked, and the front carriages return between
the guides threads, and when they get through into the front combs (leaving
the back carriages behind in the back combs), the racking wheels getting
round to Number 12, racked the front guides one space to the right and the.
back guides one space to the right also. And note, by the time that 12 is
racked the front points will have got very nearly to their resting place.
The back carriages vibrating forwards after the front ones then return between
the guide threads, and when they get through into the front bolts or combs
(so that both rows of carriages are in front), the racking wheels getting
round to Number 1, racked the back guides one space to the right, leaving
the fronting guides as they were. All the parts have now regained the same
positions which they had at the period chosen for the commencement of this.
explanation, and a row of complete meshes of lace net of our said improved
texture has been formed. The operation of weaving a piece of such lace net

page_text: is a continual repetition of the movements already explained; and as to tho
making of breadths of lace net of our said improved texture by circular bolt
or circular comb machinery, the directions herein-before given respecting
Lever's machinery will be suflicient instructions to workmen of competent
skill in that branch.
Having now explained our improvements in lace machinery for the purposo
of producing plain lace net with our said improved texture, I shall procced
to explain our means of producing ornamented lace net with the said improved
texture, the ornaments being of the nature of what is commonly termed fancy
work of bullet holing, consisting of holes left in the net at various places
according to a figured pattern. A bullet hole will be left in bobbin net
lace of the ordinary texture whenever the crossing of two traversing threads
over each other is omitted, for then two succeeding hexagonal meshes will
run together into one hole. And the same effect will be produced in laco
uct of our said improved texture wherever a linked or looped coupling of
two coupling threads is omitted to be made in the net, for the two succeeding
meshes of the net will be joined into one. The kind of bullet hole which
will be so produced is delineated in the magnified representation of our
improved texture in Sheet I. As each of the coupling threads which link or
loop together in order to form the couplings also form twists with the longi-
tudinal threads in the intervals between the successive linked or looped
couplings, and as the formation of those successive twistings will not be
interrupted by the omission of the linked couplings which would intervene
between those twistings if the machinery were making plain lace net with
our improved texture, it follows that the twists will join one to another,
forming a sort of twisted border to surround the bullet which is left by the
omission of a linked coupling. And note, as the omission of the coupling
will relieve those threads which are immediately in the vicinity of the bullet
hole from their usual tension, they will distort the surrounding meshes a little
every way, so as to draw the bullet hole to a more correct circular form than
that which is represented in the Figure, wherein the meshes surrounding the
bullet holes are all supposed to preserve their true hexagonal figure, which is
not the fact in the real lace net. And if two successive linked or looped
couplings are omitted, a bullet hole of a double size will be left in the net.
And as to our means of leaving such bullet holes at any part of the lace net
of our improved texture, the same consists in preventing particular back
guide threads from racking so much as the other back guide threads aro
racked at particular times, when the coupling threads are to be linked or
looped together in consequence of such racking, wherefore by preventing that

page_text: racking of particular threads, the linked couplings of those threads will be
prevented; that is to say, in the description herein-before given of the mode of
working Lever's machinery according to our improvements, so as to produce
lace net of our improved texture, it has been stated that when tooth
Number is racked, the back row of guides is thereby racked two single tier
spaces to the left; and suppose that immediately before such racking a small
stamp point or detainer like a working needle to be applied to the left-hand
side of any one of those coupling threads which belongs to the row of back
guides, so as to detain and prevent the said coupling guide thread from being
racked any more than one single tier space to the left instead of two such
spaces, as all the other coupling threads in the same row of guides are racked
at that time, then in that case the particular coupling guide thread which has
been so detained will miss being linked or looped by its corresponding
coupling thread which belongs to the row of bobbins, and, in consequence of
so missing, two succeeding hexagonal meshes will become joined into one,
whereby a bullet hole will be formed in that part of the net which should
have been made complete by the coupling guide thread which as been
detained and prevented from racking. And if the same prevention of racking
is repeated on the same coupling guide thread at the like period of the next
succeeding course, a bullet hole, double sized, will be formed by the running
of three succeeding hexagonal meshes into one hole. And in like manner
in the description herein-before given of the mode of working circular
bolt or circular comb machinery according to our improvements, it is
stated that in racking Number 11 the back guides are racked one
double tier space to the left. Wherefore, suppose a detainer to be ap-
plied just previously to that time of racking at the left hand side of any
one of those coupling threads which belongs to the row of back guides, so
as to detain and prevent that particular guide thread from racking at all,
when all the other back guide threads are racked to the left, then in that
case the particular coupling guide thread which has been so detained will
miss being linked or looped by its corresponding coupling thread in the front
row of bobbins, and in consequence of so missing, a bullet hole will be
formed, as before explained, in that part of the net which should havo
been made complete by the coupling guide thread which has been detained
and prevented from racking. And our mode of applying such detainer or
preventer to any of the coupling threads in the back row of guides is explained
Sheets I and II. of the Drawings. The preventers 10 are slender elbow
levers cut out in the shape of the letter L in metal plate, and a number
of them are placed side by side in a row within the spaces of a sort of

page_text: comb 11, which serve to support the preventers 10, and they play upon a centre
pin 12, which is put through holes at the lower part of the comb support 11,
and the said pin 12 passes through a centre hole at the elbow part of each
preventer 10. The said supports 11 for the preventors 10 are cast in leads
in the manner of combs, and they may be of the same gage or distance
asunder as the taking up points of the machine, that is to say, for what
is called a ten point machine, there may be ten spaces to the inch in the
support 11 for the reception of as many preventors 10. A row of leads
of supports 11 for such preventors 10 is to be placed against the inside
flat face of the back comb bar G, adjacent to the back guide bar F, with
a space in the row of supports 11 corresponding to every guide in the back
row, and as many preventers 10 may be lodged in the said spaces, being
all mounted on the aforesaid centre pin 12, about which each preventer 10 is
moveable in the manner of an elbow lever, but every one of the preventers 10
is quite independent of all the others in such movements about their common
centre pin 12. When the said preventers 10 are in their places, as shewn
in the section Sheet 11., their upper ends, which are bended forwards, will
stand a little higher than the top of the back guides, and a little behind
the same, if the preventers are put back by motion about their centre
pin 19, but if they are brought forwards by such a motion the bended tops of
the preventers will pass over the tops of the back guide so as to come
into the way of the back guide coupling threads, but without reaching so
far as to interfere with the front guide threads. The long tails of the
preventers 10 reach out backwards from under the back comb bar C, so
as to extend behind the same to a suflicient distance for being operated
upon by pins which project out from the circumference of a cylindrical
barrel 18, in the same manner as the pins in an organ barrel. The said
barrel 13 is mounted with its axis horizontally and parallel to the comb bar in
suitable bearings, which are fixed at the back of the machinery so as to admit
of being turned round very easily by means of a toothed wheel 14, which
is fixed upon one end of the barrel 13, which when it is turned round
brings its various pins in succession beneath the extreme ends of the tails
of the preventers 10 so as to lift the same upwards, and thereby the
upper ends of the preventers 10 are advanced forwards over the back row
of guides so as to enter between the back guide threads, as before mentioned;
but as soon as by the revolving motion of the barrel 13 the pins thereof pass
away from beneath the extreme ends of the tails of the preventers 10, those
tails descend by their own weight, being made heavy for that purpose, and by
that descent of their ends. their upper ends are withdrawn from between the

page_text: back guide threads out of action thereon, and they remain out of action until,
by the progressive revolving motion of the barrel 13, other pins are brought
into action beneath the said tails. The preventers 10 being received into the
spaces between their supporting combs 11 are secured from lateral deviation
at the same that they are left very freely at liberty to move with the motion
above described. The extreme ends of the tails are received in the spaces of
a slea 15, which is a row of leads like the pushers or dividers commonly used
in Lever's machines, but which become useless when the same are worked
according to our said improvements, and may be screwed to a bar in a row to
form a slea 15 for retaining the tails of the preventers 10 at equal distances
apart, side by side, in their row, so that they cannot escape laterally from
being lifted up by the action of those pins in the barrel which are provided for
that purpose. And whereas every preventer 10 which is put into action at
the particular time herein-before mentioned by the pins of the barrel 13 will
produce a bullet hole in the lace net of our improved texture, and as there is
or may be a preventer 10 provided for every one of the back guide coupling
threads, and as all those several preventers 10 are quite independent one of the
other, and can be brought into action and taken out of action by the pins on the
barrel 13, which may be disposed on the circumference thereof according to any
order of succession which may be desired, it is obvious that almost any diversity
of patterning in fancy bullet-holing work may be produced in lace net made
with our said improved texture. And as to the means of giving to revolving
barrel 13 its progressive revolving motion, the same may be done in various
ways adapted to the particular machinery which is to be worked according to
our said improvements; but for explanation of the mode of turning the
barrel 13, when the same is applied to Lever's machinery, I have represented
the requisite tackle for the purpose in Sheets II., III, and IV. of the Draw-
ings hereunto annexed. This barrel 13 may be supported in suitable
bearings 16, 16, which are aflixed to the back rafter of the wood frame so as
to sustain barrel 13 in the proper situation to actuate the tails of the pre-
venters 10. The toothed wheel 14, on the extreme end of the barrel 13, is a
ratchet wheel of such a number of teeth that, being ratched or moved two of
those teeth for every row of complete meshes that is worked, it will go round
once in making such a length of lace net of our improved texture as will
contain the whole of the intended pattern of fancy bullet-holing before the
same pattern begins to repeat again, including as much length of plain net as
may be intended to be introduced between the successive repetitions of the pat-
tern. And in order to move the said ratchet wheel 14 a suitable clawker 17
is provided at the end of a lever, which is so connected with one of the

page_text: drawing tackle levers at the back of the machine as that the said clawker 17
will be moved backwards and forwards with the drawing tacke, and will move the
ratchet wheel 14 round one tooth at a time every time that the bobbin carriages
are passed between the two rows of guide threads, the said motion being a little
before the racking the guide bars. As the barrel 18 is only required to be
moved twice in every course, a small ratchet wheel 13, and notched wheel 19,
are provided for the purpose of lifting up the clawker 17, so that it will not
act in the teeth of the large ratchet wheel 14 of the barrel 13, and will only
let down the clawker 17 by notches in the wheel, so as to put the same into
action at the particular time when required, but at no other time, that is, just
before tooth Number 3 is racked, and again just before tooth Number 4 is
racked. The ratchet wheel 18 has six teeth, and is turned one tooth at the
time by a claw which is connected with the back landing bar, so as to turn
ratchet wheel 18, when those bars are closed at the same time when the catch
bar wheels are turned, wherefore the wheel 18 goes round once for every
complete row of meshes which are made. When the landing bars are
closed after tooth Number 8 has been racked, the notched wheel 19 lets
the clawker 17 into action, and then, when tooth No. 6 is racked, the
clawker 17 acts to turn the ratchet wheel 14 and a barrel 13 one tooth, so
as to bring a series of pins thereof beneath the tails of such of the preventers 10
as are required to make bullet holes at that particular time, and the said pins
lifting up the tails of the preventers 10, their upper ends are put forwards so
ns to become inserted between the back guile threads an instant previous to
racking tooth Number 4; and then, when that racking takes place, those
preventers 10 which have been so inserted will retain those particular back
guide threads to which they belong respectively from racking more than one
single tier space, when all the other back guide threads which are not so
restrainted by preventers are racked two such spaces, and thereby bullet holes
are made as before explained. The notched wheel 19 leaves the the clawker 17
in action twice in succession, and, therefore, an instant previous to the next
time of racking tooth Number 5, the clawker 17 acts again to turn the
wheel 14 and barrel 13 another tooth, whereby all these pins of the barrel 13
which were brought into action last time are now removed, and let all the
preventers go out of action. But when the landing bars are closed after
racking tooth Number 5, the notched wheel 19 being then turned by its
rachet wheel 18, takes the clawker 17 out of action, and keeps it so until the
time of racking tooth Number 4 comes round again in working the next
sneceeding course.
The mode of applying similar machinery to double tier circular bolt or

page_text: circular comb machinery is represented in Sheet V., which contains L
section, full size, of the operative parts of a fluted roller lace machine, with
preventers 10 applied to the back row of guides between supports 11, and
with a barrel 13 to actuate the preventers 10, by pins fixed into its circum-
ference in such order as will produce any required pattern of fancy bullet holing.
The barrel 13 has a ratchet wheel 14 upon one end of it, turn it round a
tooth at a time by means of a clawker 17, which is actuated by two suitable
projections on a revolving camm wheel, which goes round once for to make a row
of complete meshes, the same as those camins which are for actuating the point
bars for taking up the meshes. And by those projections the clawker 17 is
moved at the proper times when the barrel 13 is required to be moved, but at
no other times; videlicet, immediately after Number 10 is racked, the barrel 13
is moved one tooth of its ratchet wheel 14, by notion which is then given
to its clawker 17, and the pins in the barrel 13 lifts such preventers into
action as are required to act for making bullet holes in that course. Then
the barrel 13 and those preventers are left motionless whilst Number 11
is racked, and it is at that time of racking that they act to restrain the
particular back guide threads to which they belong from at all, when all the
other back guide threads are racked one double tier space to the left; and
then before Number 12 is racked, the clawker 17 is moved again in order that
it may turn the ratchet wheel 14 and barrel 13 one tooth more, so as to
remove its pins and let all the preventers go out of action.
Having now described the nature of our said Invention, I, the said John
Bertie, for myself and for the said James Gibbons, do hereby declare that the
new Invention, whereof the exclusive use is granted to us by the said Letters.
Patent, consists,―
First, in the improved texture of lace net herein-before described and
represented in Sheet I., which texture resembles the lace net hitherto called
bobbin net or twist net very closely, because the four twisted sides of each
hexagonal mesh of bobbin net or twist lace of the ordinary texture, but the
two other sides being formed by looped or linked couplings zig-zag longi-
tudinal threads in place of crosses of traversing threads, the said improved
texture is more easy of production by machinery.
And, secondly, our said improvement in lace machinery, in order to produce
lace net with the said improved texture, consists in the modes herein before
described of actuating those parts of lace machinery which operate imme-
diately upon the threads with such order and succession and concert of
movements as will produce lace net with the said improved texture.
And lastly, in the means herein-before described, of producing lace net