IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Morgan-Brown, of the Firm of Brandon and
Morgan-Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings,
London, and 13, Rue Gaillon, Paris, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES." A communication from abroad by George Livingston Du
Lanoy, of the City, County, and State of New York, United States of America,
Sewing Machine Manufacturer.
Sealed the 1st September 1876, and dated the 16th March 1876.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Morgan-Brown at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 16th March 1876.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers
and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 13, Rue Gaillon,
Paris. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
The nature of these improvements relates more particularly to the means and
arrangement of parts for imparting to the needle and looping hook relatively to each
other a differential variable velocity; also to the peculiar construction and arrange-
ment of the spool case holder; also to the pecullar means for producing the orna-
mental cable stitch and chain stitch; also to the peculiar construction and manner
of securing the presser foot to the bar; also to the hard rubber spool case and spool
or thread guard; also to the peculiarity of the groove in the needle; also to a
novel tension device.
The
The base plate is formed with a circular opening in its front end sufficiently large
to admit of the free action of the parts, as herein-after specified. The main arm
which passes
or standard is secured to the bed plate by means of a large screw,
through the central portion of the bed plate and enters the base of the arm.
needle arm is secured to the main arm by means of a screw formed with the
journal bearing in the usual manner. The box is made of two parts and of such
size and shape as to conform to that of the open end of the bed plate, and as one
side or half secured. to the bed plate by means of screws. The other side is secured
in position by means of a joint or hinge which is supplied to the rear of the parts,
thus providing a convenient means of access to the working parts within the box.
The cloth plate is also made in two parts, and is secured angularly in position on
the box by means of screws. The main shaft, to which are attached slotted discs,

page_text: is suspended by hangers which are secured to the under side of the bed plate,by
means of screws.
The independent short shafts or journals find their bearings in other and inde-
pendent hangers cast solidly to the under side of the bed plate, and at such relative
position to the main shaft as to bring one journal above and one below the line of the
main shaft, said independent journals being severally provided with cranks and crank
pins, which pins severally engage the radial slots in the main discs. These discs are
so placed upon their shaft that their slots radiate in the same direction, and as one
short shaft is below the shaft and the other is above said shaft, it follows that when
the crank pin which works in the slot or groove of one disc is moving away from the
access of the shaft and therefore causing an accelerated rising movement of the needle,
the crank pin is moving in its slot of the other disc towards the access of shaft and
therefore causing a gradually retarding movement of the looper, thus producing an
alternate variable velocity to the said independent journals. By this means the
needle is withdrawn from the fabric with an accelerated movement while that of
the looping hook is retarded, and vice versa. In this way the chafing of the thread
against the needle, which would otherwise occur, is entirely obviated. The thread
is also, by means of this variable motion, carried back over the heel of the spool
case and out of the way of the point of the needle in its next descent by the
increased motion of the hook after the needle has been withdrawn from the fabric,
and is in its turn retarded in its downward movement.
The journal, which has its bearing in the end of the hanger, is provided with an
eccentric which actuates the needle arm by means of a connecting rod. The journal
which passes through the end of the hanger is provided which a disc, which carries
on its crank pin a looping hook. As it rotates the lower end of the hook being
provided with a screw and bearing is supported and guided in its upward and
downward movement by means of the slotted hanger, which hanger is secured to
the lower end of the stationary hanger.
The feed dog is formed of a single piece of metal and its upward half is curved
in such shape as to carry it back of and out of the way of spool caso holder,
and it is provided about its fulcrum with an elongated slot which receives the
fulcrum screw, which secures it in position to the hanger. The slot admits of its
free upward and downward movement, as it is actuated by means of an eccentric
which is formed on the hub of the disc as it is rotated.
The means for effecting the backward and forward movements of the feed dog
are provided for as follows:-A receptacle or socket is formed in the dog at or near
its centre which receives the bent end of a pendent lever, the lower end of which
bears against and is actuated by an eccentric as it is rotated.
The spool case is made of hard rubber, and in its construction a rib or shoulder
is formed at the conical part of its point on the inside to prevent the spool wedging
in the cone, and is further provided with a thread guard, the rear end of which
guard projects backward to a point that will bring it in such proximity to that of
the inside projection of the spool case holder as will prevent the loop of the thread
falling back and underneath the spool case holder after being released from the
looping hook.
The peculiarity of the improved needle consists in providing the same with a
shoulder groove. This construction insures a more perfect and positive loop being
formed in the thread immediately opposite the shoulder in the bottom of the
groove. The shoulder causes the thread to be thrown off from the needle just
at the point where the hook enters the loop formed in the thread by the withdrawal
of the needle from the fabric. By extending the groove above the shoulder a ready
means of protecting the thread against undue friction is provided, and the thread
is thus allowed much more freedom of action than with needles as ordinarily
constructed.
The improved tension device is constructed in the following manner :-The disc
is formed of a circular piece of metal of any suitable diameter, the hub of which
projects out sufficiently to admit of a ready and convenient means of turning the

page_text: disc with the thumb and finger when threading the needle. The tension wheel or
disc is secured to the hanger which is suspended beneath the main arm by a screw
formed with a journal bearing, under the head of which is formed in the disc a
cavity for the reception of a yielding pad or packing, against which the head of the
screw is set down sufficiently to prevent any backward action of the disc during
the backward motion of the clutch. The rim of the disc is formed with a feather
edge or bevel flange, which in conjunction with a metallic ring which is pressed
over the shoulder of the disc forms a wedge-shaped channel around its circum-
ference, which channel receives and feeds off the thread as the disc is rotated.
The length of stroke imparted to the feed lever by the needle bar is graduated
in the following manner :-To the main arm is secured by means of a screw an
adjusting lover, to which is pivoted by means of a fulcrum screw a graduating lever.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Morgan-Brown in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 13th
September 1876.
"
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers
and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 13, Rue Gaillon,
Paris. IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES." (A communication from abroad by
George Livingston Du Laney, of the City, County, and State of New York,
United States of America, Sewing Machine Manufacturer.)
Figure 1 is a vertical side view or elevation of the machine with a portion
of the box covering removed or broken away, showing a cross section of the spool
case holder.
Figure 2 is an elevated cross section or end view of the machine showing the
feeding mechanism, a portion of the disc being broken away for that purpose, and the
relative positions of the spool case holder and looping hook.
Figure 3 shows a top view of the head of the machine with a portion of the main
arm and needle arm broken away, showing a horizontal central view through the
tension device and adjusting levers.
Figure 4 is a bird's-eye view of the spool case holder and looping devices.
Figure 5 is a longitudinal central view of the needle enlarged.
Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, and 14, are detail views of the several parts.
Figures 15 and 16 modifications of the tension devices.
The nature of these improvements relates more particularly to the means and
arrangement of parts for imparting to the needle and looping hook relatively to
each other a differential variable velocity; also to the peculiar construction and
arrangement of the spool case holder; also to the peculiar means for producing the
ornamental cable stitch and chain stitch; also to the peculiar construction and
manner of securing the presser foot to the bar; also to the hard rubber spool case
and spool or thread guard; also to the peculiarity of the groove in the needle; also
to a novel tension device.
The base plate A is formed with a circular opening in its front end sufficiently
large to admit of the free action of the parts as herein-after specified. The main
arm or standard B is secured to the bed plate A by means of a large screw, which
passes through the central portion of the bed plate and enters the base of the arm.
The needle arm C is secured to the main arm by means of a screw formed with the
journal bearing in the usual manner. The box D is made into two parts, and of
such size and shape as to conform to that of the open end of the bed plate A, and
has one side or half secured to the bed plate by means of screws. The other side is
secured in position by means of a joint or hinge which is supplied to the rear of
the parts, thus providing a convenient means of access to the working parts within
the box. The cloth plate F is also made in two parts, and is secured angularly in

page_text: position on the box by means of screws.
The main shaft E to which are attached
the slotted discs 1 and 2 is suspended by hangers c, c, which are secured to the under
side of the bed plate A by means of screws.
The independent short shafts or journals H, H³, find their bearings in other and
independent hangers a, b, cast solidly to the under side of the bed plate and at
such relative position to the main shaft as to bring one journal above and one
below the line of the main shaft, said independent journals being severally
provided with cranks and crank pins 3, 3, which pins severally engage the radial
slots in the main discs 1 and 2, as shown more clearly in Figure 6. These discs are
so placed upon their shaft E that their slots radiate in the same direction, and as
one short shaft H is below the shaft E and the other H¹ is above said shaft, it
follows that when the crank pin which works in the slot or groove of disc 1 is
moving away from the axis of shaft E and therefore causing an accelerated rising
movement of the needle, the crank pin of H is moving in its slot of disc 2 toward
the axis of shaft E, and therefore causing a gradually retarding movement of the
looper, thus producing an alternate variable velocity to said independent journals.
By this means the needle is withdrawn from the fabric with an accelerated move-
ment, while that of the looping hook is retarded, and vice versa. In this way the
chafing of the thread against the needle which would otherwise occur is entirely
obviated. The thread is also by means of this variable motion carried back over
the heel of the spool case and out of the way of the point of the needle in its next
descent by the increased motion of the hook after the needle has been withdrawn
from the fabric, and is in its turn retarded in its downward movement.
The journal H, which has its bearing in the end of the hanger b, is provided with
an eccentric 14 which actuates the needle arm C by means of the connecting rod J.
The journal H which passes through the end of the hanger a is provided with a
disc O, which carries on its crank pin the looping hook P. As it rotates the lower
end of the hook being provided with a screw and bearing is supported and guided
in its upward and downward movement by means of the slotted hanger 8, which
banger is secured to the lower end of the stationary hanger a, as shown.
The feed dog L is formed of a single piece of metal, and its upward half is curved
in such shape as to carry it back of and out of the way of the spool case holder d,
and it is provided about its fulcrum with an elongated slot which receives the
fulcrum screw 9 which secures it in position to the hanger a. The slot admits of
its free upward and downward movement, as it is actuated by means of the
eccentric 10 which is formed on the hub of the disc O as it is rotated.
The means for effecting the forward and backward movements of the feed dog L
are provided for as follows:-A receptacle or socket 7 is formed in the dog L at or
near its centre, which receives the bent end of the pendent lever e, the lower end
of which bears against and is actuated by the eccentric 10 as it is rotated. The
letter indicates an adjustable elbow-shaped slide fulcrum against which the
pendent lever plays at any given point as it is adjusted upward or downward to
give the desired length of stitch at the will of the operator. The letter u indicates
a bracket secured by means of screws to the hanger a, beneath which the slide
fulcrum plays. A yielding pressure may be provided beneath the slide by means
of a spring (not shown in the Drawings). The upper end of the bracket u is
provided with a horizontal projection which extends at right angles across the feed
dog L at or near its middle, such projection serving to support the feed dog
adjustably in position. A spring secures a proper bearing of the feed dog and lever
against the eccentric 10.
The spool case holder is formed of two pieces of metal, and of such shape as is
herein-after described. The main portion of the concaved holder G which forms
the support for the outer jaw is secured to the bed plate a in position relative to
the needle and hook by means of screws which pass through the flange provided to
the back of the holder for that purpose (see Figure 1). The jaw d is formed from
sheet steel in proper shape, and receives its proper form by being compressed in a
die of suitable shape, and is secured in position by means of a screw t to the rear

page_text: of the standard portion G. The jaw d is extended backward, as shown in Figure
4, to a point beyond that traversed by the point of a hook which controls the loop
of thread as the latter is carried over and back of the spool to a point where the
loop is released from the hook, as shown.
By reference to the illustration it will be seen that the backward projection of
the jaw d is extended across the path of the hook at such an angle as will cause
the loop of thread as it is carried upward by the hook to glide along the inclined
edge of the jaw d to a point out of the way and beyond the path traversed by the
hook in its passage around the spool case holder, thus precluding the possibility of
the hook engaging the loop of thread left at the heel of the spool case in case the
hook fails to take the thread at the eye of the needle in the next succeeding stitch.
The shield which is applied to the rear of the jaw d, as shown by the dotted
lines, serves as an additional protection to the thread.
The spool case M is made of hard rubber, and in its construction a rib or shoulder
is formed at the conical part of its point on the inside to prevent the spool wedging
in the cone, and is further provided with a thread guard 12, the rear end of which
guard projects backward to a point that will bring it in such proximity to that of
the inside projection of the spool case holder as will prevent the loop of thread
falling back and underneath the spool case holder after being released from the
looping hook P. The guard is also continued upward to a point that will admit of
its entering the aperture between the inner and outer jaws of the spool case holder
G, thus serving to keep the spool case holder and thread guard in proper position,
and at the same time providing a ready means of adjusting more or less tension on
the under thread by passing the thread more or less times around the guard. The
spool case is secured in position by means of the latch 4.
The presser foot 1 is provided with a slot 8 of V shape at its rear end, as shown,
Figure 7, which shape corresponds to that of the end of the bar N, on which is
mounted a solidly fixed washer 13 and an adjusting nut K. By this means a more
perfect and ready adjustment is had, and any slack, by wear or otherwise, is readily
taken up, which cannot be done when the sides of the slot are parallel to each
other, as is the case in all other devices of a similar nature as used heretofore, and
for such parallel alot I make no claim. The foot 1 is secured in position by being
passed back on the end of the bar N and between the washer 13 and the nut K,
the latter being then set down tightly upon the foot, thus securing it in position.
The peculiarity of the improved needle consists in providing the same with a
shoulder groove 21, 22. This construction ensures a more perfect and positive loop
being formed in the thread immediately opposite the shoulder in the bottom of the
groove. The shoulder causes the thread to be thrown off from the needle just at
the point where the hook enters the loop formed in the thread by the withdrawal
of the needle from the fabric, as shown in Figure 5. By extending the groove
above the shoulder a ready means of protecting the thread against undue friction is
provided, and the thread is thus allowed much more freedom of action than with
needles as ordinarily constructed.
The improved tension device is constructed in the following manner :-The disc
0¹ is formed of a circular piece of metal of any suitable diameter, the hub of
which projects out sufficiently to admit of a ready and convenient means of turning
the disc with the thumb and finger when threading the needle. The tension wheel
or disc is secured to the hanger V which is suspended beneath the main arm by a
screw formed with a journal bearing, under the head of which is formed in the disc
a cavity for the reception of a yielding pad or packing, against which the head of
the screw is set down sufficiently to prevent any backward action of the disc during
the backward motion of the clutch m, m. The rim of the disc is formed with a
feather edge or bevel flange, which in conjunction with the metal ring o, o, which
is pressed over the shoulder of the disc forms a wedge-shaped channel around its
circumference, which channel receives and throws off the thread as the disc is
rotated. On the back face of the disc is formed an annular groove that receives
the but end of grip lever m, m, which lever, by the vibrating action of the needle

page_text: bar C and lifter 2, causes the disc to rotate and feed off the thread with the proper
degree of tension to the needle.
The length of stroke imparted to the feed lever by the needle bar is graduated
in the following manner :-To the main arm B is secured by means of the screw
15 the adjusting lever 3, to which is pivotted by means of the fulcrum serew 14
the graduating lever 40. This lever engages at its slotted end with the stud or spur
carried on the end of the yoke 81, which is connected rigidly to the presser bar N.
At the opposite end of the lever 40 projects transversely a horizontal stud or spur X,
on which the clutch lever m rests at any given point to which it is adjusted. Thus
it will be observed that in the same proportion as the presser bar N is affected,
upward or downward, by the varying thickness of goods passing beneath the foot
is the graduating lever 40 and spur X affected, consequently more or less motion is
imparted to the clutch m and disc O" by the needle bar C, which causes more or
less thread to be fed off to the needle to suit any thickness of goods. The degree
of tension is fixed by adjusting the lever 3, which changes the relative position of
the lever 40, up or down, to suit any length of stitch or thickness of goods. Once
adjusted no other changes are required, no matter how varied or irregular the
thickness of goods. The spring m³ serves to keep the lever m in contact with the
edges of the annular groove when being actuated by the bar C. Two small discs 5
are provided at the end of the needle bar, between which the thread passes to the
eye of the needle for the purpose of controlling by a gently yielding pressure the
slack thread above the eye of the needle.
Figures 11, 12, 13, and 14 show the parts 3, 40, 8, and m, m, detached; a novel
device, is provided for producing what I call the "ornamental cable stitch," and also
the common chain stitch, which is as follows:-On the upper front edge of the jaw d,
and just in advance of the path of the needle, is formed a nick together with a
small point 7, which co-act in the formation of the loop with the slotted thread
guard g, as herein-after described. The guard g is blanked from sheet steel in the
ordinary way, and is in its construction provided with a thumb-like projection 6,
extending out from the main body of the guard. The guard is secured adjustably
by means of a screw and pin to the top face of the spool case holder G in such
position as when in action to engage and retain the thread in loop form on the
points 6 and 7, as shown in Figure 4, as it is carried by the hook around the spool
case. By this means the loop which has been formed in the thread is held at rest,
in such position as will ensure the needle entering the same in its next descent, said
loop being drawn up by the hook at the next succeeding stitch, and at the same
time interlacing it with the under thread, thus forming the ornamental cable stitch.
The chain stitch is made in the same way after removing the under thread from the
spool case. The thread guard g is brought into action only when these two kinds
of stitches are made, the guard being withdrawn when the lock stitch is being made
to the position shown by the dotted lines in Figures 2 and 4.
In the modification of the tension devices shown in Figures 15 and 16, Figures 15 is
a rear view and Figure 16 a top view, both fragmentary. The piece a¹ is blanked
from sheet steel in the form shown. The piece is also blanked from sheet steel,
and is secured adjustably to the piece a¹ as shown. The stud c¹ is attached to the
piece b' transversley as shown, and against it the clutch lever is graduated in the
same manner as herein-before described, except that the action is reversed and lever
is pressed down instead of lifted up. The action of the needle bar and presser foot
are thus communicated directly to the pin c¹ through the agency of a¹ and b¹, thus
controlling the motion of the lever, which actuates the tension wheel. The joint
serves to adjust the length of stroke to deliver thread as required. The thread is
shown at d, d, passing from the top of the wheel to the eyelet, and thence up over
and between the discs 5, as before described.
Having now described and particularly set forth the nature of the said Invention,
and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that
what I claim is,--
First. The combination with the main shaft E and with the needle operating

page_text: mechanism and a looper of the discs 1 and 2, provided with radial slots, the cranks
and crank pins 3, 3, the shaft H above the shaft E, and the shaft H below it or on
the opposite side, as and for the purpose set forth.
Second. The spool case holder G, constructed as described and provided with the
jaw d, having a thread projection 7 located on its upper odge at a point slightly in
advance of the path of the needle, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Third. The shield or guard j in combination with the jaw d, as shown and for
the purpose set forth.
Fourth. In combination with the hard rubber spool case M, the spool guard 12,
constructed with the rearward extension, as shown, and applied to the spool case,
and operating as and for the purpose set forth.
Fifth. The sewing machine needle provided with a shoulder groove 21, 22, sub-
stantially as shown and for the purpose specified.
Sixth. The combination for joint operation of the following devices, viz., tho
tension wheel O¹, ring O, O, lever m, m, spring m³, lifter z, spur x, adjusting lever 3,
graduating lever 40, and yoke 8¹, these parts being constructed substantially as
shown and set forth.
Seventh. In a sewing machine the combination with a thread tension devico
adapted to feed out automatically the quantity of thread for a stitch, and with tho
needle of the discs 5, when used for controlling the slack thread above the eye of
the needle, as and for the purpose specified.
Eighth. The adjustable slotted thread guard g, in combination with the jaw d,
provided with the point 6, substantially as described and for the purpose set forth,
Ninth. The combination of the wheel 01, lever m, m³, spring m², lifter z, spur x,
adjusting lever 3, graduating lever 40, yoke 8, and bar N, the several parts being
constructed substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Tenth. The combination with the feed dog L of the eccentric 10, the pendent
lever e, adjustable fulcrum slide r, and bracket u, substantially as set forth.
Eleventh. The combination of devices for producing tension on the thread, sub-
stantially as described and illustrated in Figures 15 and 16.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Morgan-Brown, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-six.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN. (L.S.)