Improvements in Button-hole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 28th June, 1898-Accepted, 25th Feb., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Button-hole Sewing Machines.
I, WILLIAM MANNING HOUSE, of 151, West 29th Street, in the City and State
of New York, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed to
be particularly described and ascertained, in and by the following statement:-
I will describe a machine embodying my improvements and then point out
the novel features in a claim.
In the accompanying drawing, Fig. 1 is a front view of a machine embodying
my improvements. Fig. 2 is a top view of the same, certain parts having been
broken away. Fig. 2 is a detail transverse section of certain parts and an
elevation of others showing the tension device of the thread. Figure 3 is an
end view of the arm of the machine, showing the needle bar supporting mechanism,
the cover being removed for the purpose cf exposing such mechanism. Figure 4
is a horizontal section at the plane of the dotted line 4-4, Figure 3. Figure 5
is a top view of certain parts. Figure 6 is another top view of certain parts.
Figure 6 is an inverted plan or bottom view of a bar and appurtenances repre-
sented in Figure 6. Figure 7 is an inverted plan of certain portions of the
machine beneath the bed plate, this view being upon a larger scale. Figure 8
is a longitudinal vertical section taken through the axial line of the feed wheel.
Figure 9 is a transverse vertical section taken through the axial line of the feed
wheel. Figure 10 is a top view of a can. Figure 11 is a bottom view of a
feed lever comprised in the machine. Figure 12 is a transverse section of the
said lever. Figure 13 is a view of the rear side of the lower end of the cutter
bar and of the rear edge of the cutter. Figure 14 is a side view of these parts.
Figure 15 is a vertical section taken lengthwise of the work clamp top and bottom
plates. Figure 16 is a top view of the bottom plate of the work clamp. Figure 17
is an inverted plan or bottom view of the top plate of the work clamp. Figure 18
is a view similar to Figure 15, illustrating a slight modification in the con-
struction of the bottom plate of the work clamp. Similar letters of reference
designate corresponding parts in all figures.
A designates the bed of the sewing machine. B designates the arm having
the main shaft Carranged horizontally in its upper portion. Affixed to this
shaft is a disc C¹ having on that side which is towards the arm of the machine
a protuberance consisting, as here shown, of a circumferentially inclined
surface which cooperates with a stop D. This stop is shown as supported
by a three arm lever, d', d, d, which is fulcrumed by a pin or screw to a
bracket which may be attached to the bed A and arm B of the machine.
Mounted loosely upon the main shaft beyond the disc (" is a belt pulley E, and
this has frictional engagement with the adjacent side of the disc C', a washer
f friction generating material, such as paper, being preferably interposed. Such
a washer may be inserted in a recess formed in the side of the disc ("
The arm of the lever, bears against the side of the belt pulley E
and serves to press it towards the disc (". This arm of the lever is preferably
D

page_text: provided for this purpose with an adjustable pin or screw d opposite the center
of the belt pulley E. It will be seen that when the lever is oscillated in one
direction by power applied to its arm d³, it will move the belt pulley towards
the disc Cand the stop D away from the disc C, but that when it is moved in
the reverse direction the pressure of the belt pulley against the disc C¹ will
be relaxed, and the stop D will be moved to a position to stop the disc C.
The arm of the lever d', d, dis pivotally connected by a pin or screw d
with a rod fitted to bearings formed integral with the bed A and arranged to
slide lengthwise of the bed along the underside of the same. Between one of
these bearings and a collar d' which is affixed to the rod ds, a helical spring do
is coiled around the rod. This spring acts in a direction to oscillate the
lever d¹, 2, 3 in such direction as to apply the stop to the disc C¹, and relax
the pressure of the pulley E upon said disc.
A lever fulcrumed to a pin that is supported by a bracket d" fastened
to the bed A of the machine, is connected by a chain fitted to an eye with a
treadle that is intended to be actuated by the operator to depress the lever.
Normally a spring will oscillate this lever upwardly. The lever du is a bell
crank lever. It has an upright arm that is provided with a pin 6 which
engages with a slot or notch in a collar d17 fastened to the rod d. By depressing
the lever the rod will be moved longitudinally against the force of the
spring do, and thus the lever d,, will be oscillated in such direction that
its stop will be removed from the disc (1, and the belt pulley E will be pressed
against said disc to cause the operation of the machine.
The lever is not held by the treadle in the position to which it is adjusted,
but is left free so that the parts may be reversed in their action automatically.
When the lever is depressed it is, however, locked in position by means of
a lever that engages with a notch in a finger d extending from a collar 20
which is affixed to the rod 8. The lever 18 is fulcrumed to a pin or screw 21
passing through the bed A of the machine. A spring acts to oscillate the
lever 18 into a position to engage with the finger when permitted so to do by
a cam, whose operation will hereafter be more fully described. It is a cam
that is carried rotarily around to its operating position once for each buttonhole
that is cut and stitched. It has an inclined forward end that coacts with a
correspondingly inclined end of the lever 18, and it is by the coaction of these
inclined surfaces that the said lever is oscillated in the contrary direction to
that in which it is moved by the spring 22. Whenever the cam oscillates
the lever it disengages it from the finger 1, thereby allowing the spring d¹º
to move the rod 8 in the proper direction to relax the pressure of the belt
pulley E against the disc (", and to apply the stop to said disc.
When the treadle which is employed to depress the lever is released after
having depressed the lever the springs will raise the lever to its normal
position and thereby it will bring a finger or roll into contact with the end
portion of a finger extending from a collar 23 that is fastened to the rod ³.
The finger or roll 2 will remain in contact with the end portion of the finger
until the cam disengages the lever from the finger of the rod (8
thereby allowing the rod to be moved by the spring o When this happens
the spring raises the lever still farther, and thereby shifts the finger or
roll to one side of the finger of the iod, to later come in contact with it,
as hereinafter pointed out, thereby locking the rod against any outward
movement, or, in other words, against any movement in the direction contrary
to that in which the spring to is capable of moving it. While the rod dis
locked by the finger or roll against any outward movement, the incline c of
the disc (will come opposite to the stop D) which is affixed to the arm d¹ of
the lever, 2, and will crowd against said stop until the latter positively
arrests its movement.
The lever may he disengaged from the finger 19 by a hand lever d which
is fulcrumed by a pin to a bracket extending downwardly from the bed A

page_text: of the machine. The lower arm of this lever crosses the lever 18, and its
upper arm extends above the bed.
3.
F designates a cutter bar supported in the end of the arm B so that it may
reciprocate vertically and also oscillate about its axis. It is shown as having
cutter of a length adapting it to cut an entire buttonhole at one stroke. In
this example of my improvement the cutter operates at about the time the
stitching begins but this timing is not essential to my invention.
It will be seen (Figure 3) that the arm B has in its outer end a chamber b,
and that the cutter bar extends through this chamber, being supported by a
bearing formed in the bottom of the chamber and by a bearing formed in a
collar fitted in the top of the chamber. A spline or feather f³ engages the cutter
bar with the collar f¹ so that by oscillating the collar an oscillatory movement will
be imparted to the cutter bar in addition to its reciprocatory movement. The
purpose of the oscillatory movement is to oscillate the cutter into and out of a
position in line with the buttonhole to be formed, and also for the purpose of
engaging and disengaging the cutter bar and the part which is to reciprocate it.
In the present instance the reciprocation of the cutter bar is effected by the
needle bar G, the latter having affixed to it for this purpose a collar g provided
in one side with a notch into which may be swung a toe or finger that extends
from a collar f* affixed to the cutter bar. As here shown, the collar f* of the
cutter bar is provided with a shoulder f which as the cutter bar is oscillated will
contact with a portion of the collar g of the needle bar to stop the cutter bar in its
oscillatory movement. When the cutter bar is stopped it will be in the position
to have the toe or finger f³ engaged by the collar g which then operates the
cutter bar to cut a buttonhole. When the cutter bar has been elevated to its
highest position and oscillated out of engagement with the needle bar, a pin f
extending radially from the cutter bar will be carried over a support f, and
thus the cutter bar will be maintained in an elevated position until it has to
operate again. Then it will be oscillated so that its pin f will leave the
support, and the cutter will assume an operative position. Besides this, the
cutter bar will be properly engaged with the needle har.
The collar is provided with a pin f which is attached to a rod f. The
rod fis oscillated vertically by a lever f10. It is permitted to engage with a
lever that is affixed to one end of a rock shaft I that is journaled in the arm B
of the machine and oscillated by a cam that is mounted upon a screw stud i, the
said cam being geared to the main shaft C. At the proper time the lever f10
throws it out of engagement with the lever f. As all this mechanism for oper-
ating the cutter is old and well known, I have not attempted to illustrate it, nor
shall I describe it in detail.
The lever 10 Figs. 1 and 7 projects downwardly through the bed A of the
machine for the purpose of coacting with a lever f18. A spring f19 holds it in
contact with the lever f18. A rotary cam f operates the lever f¹s and hence the
lever f10
While the cutter may be mounted upon the cutter bar in any desired manner
so far as the operation of other parts of the machine is concerned, I prefer to
mount it in the manner illustrated. It will be seen (Figures 13 and 14) that a
collar is fitted to the lower end of the cutter bar and secured there by means
of a screw f3 As the cutter bar is cylindrical and the hole in the collar f¹³ is
also cylindrical, it is possible to adjust the collar rotarily upon the cutter bar by
suitably manipulating the screw f³. The collar 12 has one flat side f" and is
flat on the bottom. An L shaped piece f¹ is fitted to the flat side 1 of the
collar and to the bottom of the collar f12, and is secured thereto by means of
screws 16 passing through the upright portion of the shaped piece f and
into the flat side 14 of the collar fis. The upright portion of the shapel
piece has horizontal slots through which the screws fl pass. Hence the
L shaped piece may be shifted horizontally. As the flat side of the collar f
is at the rear of the collar f12, it is possible to shift the L shaped piece in the

page_text: direction of the length of the arm B of the machine, which will be transversely
to the length of a buttonhole. As the cutter is fastened to the L shaped piece fl
the adjustment of the shaped piece in the manner just explained will effect
the shifting of the cutter so that it may be made to cut a buttonhole upon the
descent of the needle while making either an edge stitch or a depth stitch. As
the cutter is provided with horizontal slots through which pass screws that
fasten it to the ☐ shaped piece f15, it may be independently adjusted endwise.
These possibilities of adjustment are advantageous, because when the cutting
is done substantially in advance of the stitching, or, in other words, at the begin-
ning of the stitching, it is desirable that the cutter should operate during the
descent of the needle for making a depth stitch, whereas, if the cutter is to oper-
ate after the substantial completion of the stitching, it will be more desirable
to have it descend during the descent of the needle for making an edge stitch.
Later on I shall describe means whereby the cutter may be timed to operate
at the beginning or at the end of the stitching operation.
The needle bar G works through the chamber b formed at the end of the arm B,
and reciprocates through openings formed in the top and bottom of such chamber
and made of such size as not to interfere with the necessary movements of the
needle bar. It is mounted in a well known manner to reciprocate vertically,
and it may be combined in any suitable manner with the main shaft, so as to be
reciprocated thereby. The needle bar G is not supported directly by the arm B
of the sewing machine, but in a yoke or frame G which reciprocates in the direc-
tion of the length of the arm B, so that the needle will be carried first on one
side and then on the other side of a given line to produce edge stitches along
the center line of a buttonhole and depth stitches at one side thereof.
It will be seen (Figure 3) that the yoke or frame G¹ has a bearing gl at its
lower extremity, and a bearing at its upper extremity, and that the needle bar
is supported in both of these bearings in such manner that it may reciprocate
vertically through them. The yoke or frame G₁ is mainly of rectangular form,
it being composed of two vertical portions ³, g connected near their ends by
horizontal portions g, g, the bearings g, g² being formed integral with these
horizontal portions go, 96. The vertical portion g³, has vertical trunnion bearings
at its upper and lower ends in the end of the arm of the machine, so that the
entire yoke or frame may oscillate horizontally. The vertical portion is
provided with an arm g that is at its outer extremity connected pivotally by a
pin or screw 98 with one end of a horizontal reciprocating rod g. By means of
this rod the yoke or frame G is oscillated horizontally, and thus it is made to
carry the needle bar to and fro, or, in other words, to give it the jogging move-
ment necessary for the production of stitches. The mechanism for operating
this rod g I will describe presently.
The needle bar is reciprocated vertically by means of a disc c¹ which is affixed
to that end of the main shaft C which terminates near the needle bar G. Upon
this disc is a wrist pin and such wrist pin coacts with a collar 10 which is
affixed to the needle bar G. The disc is constructed to constitute a cam for
operating a take up lever H, but as this forms no part of my present invention,
I will make no further mention of it.
The rod is connected with a stud 11 that extends from a block fitted in a
slide-way is formed in a lever g3 which is rigidly affixed to the front end of the
shaft I, so that when said shaft is oscillated by the cam before mentioned, it will
oscillate this lever g, and the latter will reciprocate the rod q".
Obviously, by shifting the position of the stud gl along the lever so that
it will be nearer to or farther from the fulcrum shaft I, the amplitude of the
reciprocation of the rod g³ will be varied. For shifting the stud lengthwise
of the lever g3, I employ in the present example of my invention, a lever g
that is fulcrumed to a pin or screw 13 fastened to the arm B of the machine.
The free end of this lever is longitudinally slotted or forked to embrace the
stud g. Intermediate of the ends of the lever g it is pivotally connected by a

page_text: pin g to a rod g₁. A helical springs surrounds this rod between the bed A
and a collar q that is fastened by a set screw to the rol g. By means of this
spring the rod g, and hence the lever g" and the stud will be moved up-
wards whenever there is no counteracting force.
The lower end of the rod g is pivotally connected by a screw 9 with a cam
lever . This lever is fulcrumed to a pin or screw g supported in a
bracket extending downwardly from the bed A. Intermediate of its ends the
lever is provided with a laterally extending toe or finger g2 that bears upon
a cam g. The toe or finger g is fastened to the lever g2 by screws g that
pass through slots extending lengthwise of the lever so as to afford provision
for adjusting the toe or finger towards either end of the lever. Thus provision
is afforded for adjusting to a nicety the movement imparted to the stud gu length-
wise of the lever g13. It also affords provision for timing the shifting of the
stud g along the lever 13, because by shifting such toe or finger in one direc-
tion or the other along the lever the cam will operate upon it either sooner
or later.
The cam is a rim cam, or, in other words, a cam formed on the under side
of an annular or rim-like part.
Any suitable shuttle mechanism may be employed. In the present instance
a shuttle is fitted into a race S¹ which is fastened to a bracket s that is secured
to the under side of the bed A. A shuttle driver s propels the shuttle, and is
comprised in a lever that is osculated by means of a rod 2 which derives motion
from a wrist pins extending from a disc affixed to an upright shaft S geared
to the main shaft C.
As here shown, the cam 2 is formed integral with a disc, having slots g
which are concentric with the center or axis of the cam. Through these slots
pass screws g that engage with the under side of the feed wheel J. The slots g28
afford provision for adjusting the cam 25 relatively to the feed wheel. The feed
wheel is affixed to a cam K which is the cam which produces the progressive
feeding movement lengthwise of a buttonhole. It will be seen that this cam K
is a groove cam.
Integral with the cam K is a cam L, which may be termed a change cam be-
cause it changes the position of the fabric in which the buttonhole is being
stitched, so that the stitches will occur in different relations to the center line of
a buttonhole. To be more explicit, this cam will cause the stitches to be arranged
in rows for the sides of a buttonhole and in groups for the ends of a buttonhole
to constitute barring. As in this form of machine the fabric in which the button-
hole to be worked is held in a clamp M, the cams K, L operate upon this work
clamp. The means whereby they are enabled to fulfil their functions will be
described later on. Between the piece comprising the cams K, L and the feed
wheel J, a gear wheel () is arranged.
The feed wheel J, the gear wheel (), the piece comprising the cams K, L and
the piece comprising the cam are all provided at or near the center with a
hole, so that they may be fitted upon a stud N that is fastened to a bed plate A¹
fitted in bearings a¹, a extending downwardly from the under side of the bed A
of the machine the direction of the sliding movement of the bed plate being
lengthwise of the arm B of the machine. The extremity of this stud N is screw
threaded and fitted with a nut n. A pin inserted in a hole formed in a piece
comprising the cams K, L, and also fitted in similar holes in the feed wheel J
and gear wheel locks the said part comprising the cams K, L, the gear wheel
and the feed wheel J together, so that they will turn in unison.
Owing to the slots and screws 72 which secure the cam to the feed
wheel, this cam may be adjusted rotarily not only with reference to the feed
wheel, but to the cams K, L. Intermediate of the disc from which the cam gº5
extends and the nut n, a friction device 1 surrounds the stud N. It may con-
sist of a disc of metal and a number of dises of leather or like material arranged
intermediate of said disc of metal and the disc with which the cam is formed.

page_text: The cam makes one complete rotation for each buttonhole. It has two
flat surfaces 1, 2 and two intermediate notches 3, 4, which are diametrically
opposite each other. While the two rows of side stitches are being formed, the
toe or finger 24 will be in contact with the portions 1, 2, of the cam 2. During
the formation of the barring stitches at the ends of the two rows of side stitches,
the toe or finger g2 will rise in the notches 3, 4. It will be seen that the rear
faces or sides of these notches are inclined. As in this way the rod g17 will be
made to shift the stud " farther from the fulcrum shaft I, the amplitude of the
jogging movement of the needle bar G will be increased, and consequently the
barring stitches will be longer than the side stitches.
They will be made gradually shorter; that is, each one succeeding another will
be shorter for the last few stitches, because of the inclined rear faces of the
notches 3, 4. This variation in the length of the bearing stitches is advantageous
because it will result in staying the end of a button-hole better than if the stitches
were all of the same length. Not only do the shorter stitches stay the material
where the longer stitches could not stay it, but the shorter stitches also tie down the
longer stitches.
The feed wheel J, may be of any suitable form. I have shown it as being oper
ated by means of a pawl j pivoted to a lever j which is mounted upon a hub ja
with which the feed wheel is provided. A spring holds the pawl in engagement
with the ratchet teeth on the periphery of the feed wheel. A pawl pivoted to
a stud j extending from the bed plate A¹ and impelled against the periphery of
the feed wheel by means of a spring prevents back lash of the feed wheel.
The lever is provided with a longitudinal slot 7, and with this slotted portion
is connected a rods, the means for making the connection being represented as
a screw passing through the end of the rod 8, through the slot of the lever j¹,
and having a head on one side of the lever j¹ and a nut applied to it at the other
side.
The rod is pivotally connected by means of a screw and a nut, with a
lever, the said lever being longitudinally slotted where the screw j passes
through it. By the longitudinal slotting of the levers j¹, 10, provision is afforded
for adjustments which will vary the throw of the pawl j. Thus stitches may be
closer or finer, or, in other words, farther apart or nearer together. The lever 10
is fulcrumed to a screw stud that is fastened to the bed A of the machine.
Beyond this fulcrum the lever is bifurcated, and operated by a cam affixed to the
shaft S, and from this cam is derived the motion which is transmitted to the feed
pawl j.
The gear wheel 0 engages with a pinion 01 affixed to a shaft supported in a
bearing carried by the bed plate A¹, and extending through a slot in the bed A
of the machine. At the upper end this shaft is provided with a hand piece o
whereby the pinion 01, and consequently the gear wheel O and the feed wheel J
and the cams K, L, may be turned by hand.
The work clamp M. (Figures 15, 16 and 17) comprises a top plate m¹ having a
shank portion m³ and an enlarged end portion m³ in which is formed a large
rectangular opening m. On the under side of the end portion m³ are fastened
two serrated bars m³, each being at or near its ends attached to or formed integral
with resilient arms m which are attached to the under side of the end portion m³
of the top plate of the clamp. As here shown, the arms me are formed integral
with the cross bars m³. Screws m² serve to fasten the arms ms to the top plate of
the clamp. The arms m³ of each bar m³ cross the other bar m³ and their resilience
is such as to move the serrated bars downwardly with reference to the top plate of
the clamp. Hence when the serrated bars meet with any considerable resistance
the arms me will be deflected upwardly, and thus will impart to the serrated bars
a movement away from each other. This movement will have the effect of spread-
ing the fabric in the clamp. The large rectangular opening in the top plate of
the clamp gives the operator an opportunity to see the serrated bars and the fabric
beneath them.

page_text: The bottom plate of the clamp has a shank portion m³ and an enlarged end
portion m. In the top of the latter is a recess mo which is made in the shape of
an are of a cylinder, and is provided along its central line with a slot m¹. The
serrated bars m³ coact with this recess close to the sides of its slot.
The recess m¹0 instead of being made in the shape of an arc of a cylinder, may
be provided with a shoulder for coacting with the serrated bars m³ to make a more
positive engagement of the fabric with the clamp.
The shank portions of the top and bottom plates of the work clamp are fastened
to a bar m3. The resilience of the shank portions of the said plates is such that
they will spread apart when not forced together, the top plate rising for this pur-
pose. To the bar m¹³ is hinged a lever m, which at its free end bears upon the
shank portion of the top plate of the work clamp. A stud m¹s rises from the
bar m3 through a hole in the lever m", and has pivoted to its upper end a cam
lever me which serves to adjust the lever m¹ so that it will depress the top plate
of the work clamp, or permit it to rise. This lever may also operate a tension
device T so as to release it whenever the top plate of the work clamp is released.
As this tension device forms no part of my invention, I will say nothing further
about it.
The bar m3 is fastened by screws m¹? to a bar m18. Preferably the bar m¹³
will be provided with longitudinal slots m19 where the screws m¹ pass through it, as
thus convenient provision for adjusting the cloth clamp, relatively to the needle
and cutter, is afforded.
The bar m18 (Figures 6 and 6*) has on the side which is the nearer to the cloth
clamp, a projection m20 whose sides are shown as converging, but this feature of
construction is not material. On the upper side of the projection m20 are two
ribs m³, between which the bar m¹³ fits. They serve as steadiments so as to pre-
vent any oscillation of the bar m3 independently of the bar m18. Extending
transversely of the bar m18 is a slot or notch m²³. This extends through that side
of the bar which is the farther from the work clamp. The bar m¹³ is provided with
a longitudinal slot m3 which is in line with the slot or notch m2, and in the slot m³)
of the bar m is fastened a stud m². As shown, it may be clamped in position by
means of a nut applied to a screw with which it is provided. Owing to the fact
that this stud is fastened through a longitudinal slot in the bar m13, and the bar m18
is provided with a coincident slot or notch m², the stud m² may be adjusted length-
wise of the bar m13 and may protrude downwardly through the bar m¹8.
On the underside of the bar m18 are pairs of ribs m25 forming slide ways fitting
blocks m2 fitted loosely upon studs m27 which are screwed into a bar m28. This
bar ms is fitted in a slide way in the upper side of the bed plate A¹. To afford
a long bearing for the bar m, the bed plate is provided with laterally extending
arms a³, a
The bar mis provided with a stud m2 which extends downwardly through
a slot m* in the bed plate A' into the groove of the cam K. The bar 28 there-
fore derives motion from the cam K in directions transverse to the length of the
arm B of the machine, or, in other words, in the direction of the length of the
opening in the work clamp and lengthwise of a buttonhole produced. This motion
is what is generally called the feed motion progressively lengthwise of a button-
hole.
It will be seen that the feed cam K has dwells ¹, . These (Figure 10) con-
sist of portions concentric with the axis of the cam. They allow the cam to
rotate during the formation of barring stitches, without producing any feed of
the work clamp.
The lower end of the stud m4 is provided with an anti-friction roller m that
fts in a longitudinal slot m³ formed in a lever m which is fulcrumed by a pin
or screw m3 to the bed plate A¹. The slot m" is necessary to allow adjustments
of the stud m2 lengthwise of the bar m¹³ and transversely of the har m
From the under side of the lever m extend jaws m³ which embrace a roller m³
mounted upon a stud m³ that extends upwardly from the feed bar ms. By this

page_text: The lever m transmits
means the feed bar m serves to oscillate the lever m³.
motion through the stud mi to the bar ms and consequently to the work clamp in
the direction of the length of a buttonhole. It will be seen, therefore, that the teed
cam does not directly impart motion to the work clamp in the direction for feeding,
but imparts motion directly to the feed bar m in the feeding direction, and the
latter imparts the feeding movement to the work clamp through the lever m
and the bar m's carrying the bar m, to which the work clamp is attached. One
advantage of this is the opportunity afforded for adjustments to suit different
sizes of buttonholes simply by shifting the stud m³ nearer to or farther from the
fulcrum of the lever no.
2
The change cam L co-operates with a roller mounted upon a stud / affixed to
the bearing a² of the bed plate A. As the change cam L is mounted. upon this
bed plate and the roller is mounted upon a stationary part of the machine, it
follows that the cam will derive a bodily movement from its coaction with the
roller, and that such movement will be imparted to the bed plate. Helical
springs attached at one end to the armis a³, a of the bed plate A', and at the other
end to appurtenances of the bed A of the machine, tend to draw the bed plate A'
so as to move the change cam toward the roller l. The projections of the cam will,
of course, effect a movement in the contrary direction.
The change cam is composed of a number of concentric portions 1, 1, 1, there
being two short circumferential portions of the same radius, and two long
circumferential portions t, to of radii different from each other and different from
the radius of the portions . The long circumferential portion will prevent any
movement of the work clamp transversely to the length of a buttonhole while one
row of side stitches is being formed, and the long circumferential portion will
perform the same office for the work clamp during the formation of the other row
of side stitches. The other circumferential portions hold the clamp against
jogging during the formation of the barring stitches. The shoulders or offsets
intermediate of the two short circumferential portions and the long circum-
ferential portions, serve to shift the work clamp prior to and after the com-
pletion of two sets of barring stitches which are formed at the ends of a button-
hole, the obvious purpose of thus shifting the work clamp being to secure the proper
disposition of the two rows of side stitches with reference to the center line of the
buttonhole, and to secure the disposition of the barring stitches equally across the
center line of the buttonhole on both sides.
It will be seen that the dwells k¹, of the feed cam K, which suspend the feed-
ing of the work clamp are operative at the time that the short circumferential
portions of the change cam hold the work clamp in position for the barring
stitches, and that while the dwells k', of the feed cam are fulfilling their function,
and the short circumferential portions of the change cam are maintaining the
proper position of the work clamp for the barring stitches, the notches 3, 4, of the
cam become operative to shift the lever g21, and cause the stud gl¹ to be moved
farther from the fulcrum shaft I of the lever ga, for the purpose of increasing
the amplitude of the jogging movement of the needle.
The stop cam is so positioned that it will immediately after the formation
of the second set of barring stitches oscillate the lever d, so that it will release
the rod and permit the spring to operate.
As soon as the rod is moved
by the spring, the arm is moved away from the disc (and the arm moved
toward the dise C¹ to have the pad 1 in the path of the incline or protuberance c,
so that as the protuberance engages with the pad a cam-like action by the incline
on the pad occurs, which forces the finger d² of the rod into engagement
with the anti-friction roller which is brought into position by the spring d
This roller will prevent any movement of the rod in the releasing direction and
locks it so that the rotation of the disc (1 will be stopped. This operation occurs
if the incline or protuberance has not reached the pad when the machine is
stopped. Should, however, the protuberance be in front of the pad d when
the rod is released by the lever B, the action above described will not immediately

page_text: becur and the disc will continue to rotate, thus carrying the protuberance past
the pad. As soon as the incline has passed the pad, the spring do will move
the rod further in the locking direction to bring the pad directly in the path
of the protuberance, so that when they engage again the cam action above
described takes place to stop the machine.
In the illustrated organization, the stitching of a buttonhole will begin with
the formation of one row of side stitches, then one set of barring stitches will
be formed, next the other row of side stitches will be made, and finally the
second set of barring stitches will be formed. As the buttonhole is to be cut,
in the illustrated organization, substantially at the beginning of the stitching,
the cam is positioned so that it will effect the descent of the cutter just after
the first few stitches in the first row of side stitches shall have been made. I do
not intend to be limited to the timing mentioned.
It will be seen that the cams d³, fare mounted upon the circumference of
the cam Preferably they will be secured by screws passing through slots
which will permit of the adjustment of the cams 20 circumferentially of
the cam g
"
If with sewing machines in which are stitched buttonholes having two parallel
rows of side stitches arranged upon opposite sides of the buttonhole opening,
and two sets of barring stitches crossing the ends of the opening and the two
rows of side stitches the same thread tension is employed for making the barring
stitches for making the two rows of side stitches, a puckering
of the fabric in which the buttonhole is formed will result. I there-
fore wish to provide in a simple manner for lessening the tension during
the formation of the barring stitches relatively to that which is employed during
the formation of the side rows of stitches.
as
T designates a tension device of any appropriate form which will constantly
act upon the thread passing through the needle.
As here
V designates another tension device for operating upon the thread.
shown, this tension device consists of two dises 1, 2, between which the thread
passes. The upper disc is impelled towards the other by a spring surrounding
a spindle r, extending from the lower disc and receiving the upper disc upon
it. A nut applied to the spindle may serve to adjust the force of the spring.
W designates a lever fulcrumed to a pin or screw. As here shown this pin ic
and the spindler are supported upon a plate l that is affixed by a screw u to
the arm B of the sewing machine.
The upper end of the lever is somewhat pointed so that it may enter between
the plates,, for the purpose of separating the former from the latter.
Normally the lever has no effect upon the discs, and then the full force of the
spring will operate to press the dise towards the disc a, and the full tension
will be put upon the thread. Whenever the lever is oscillated so that its upper
end will move towards the dise and move the upper further away from the lower
there will be no tension exerted by the discs upon the thread.
Near the lower end of the lever W it has, on that edge which is towards the
arm of the sewing machine head, an incline which co-operates with the
lever gat such times as the latter occupies its appropriate position during the
barring of the ends of the buttonhole.
It is intended that the tension T should operate continuously but that the
tension should only operate during the sewing of the two side rows of stitches.
When the lever g₁ is raised, as hereinbefore described, which will be for the
purpose of barring the ends of the buttonhole, it engages the incline on the
lever W, and consequently it is at this time that the tension V will be rendered
inoperative by said lever g. When the lever is lowered, which will be
after barring, and during the stitching of the sides of the buttonhole, it will not
engage the incline and the tension will then be operative.
A bell crank lever X is fulcrumed by a pin or screw to a bracket r¹, extending
from the arm of the sewing machine. One arm of this bell crank lever X crosses

page_text: at the lower end of the lever W, and the other arm is connected by a rod Y
with the lever d¹, dª², d³. As here shown, the lever d¹, de, d is provided with a
screw eye y and the rod Y is provided with a hook y suitable for engagement
with the said eye y.
The other end of the rod Y passes into a screw clamp y
which engages with a slide portion of the bell crank lever so that it may be
adjusted towards and from the fulcrum of the latter.
When the sewing machine is stopped the upper end of the lever
moves
to the right, and thus swings forwardly that end of the bell crank lever X which
crosses the lever W, and consequently forces the upper end of the lever W
inwardly so that it will raise the upper disc of the tension device and relieve
the thread.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
1. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work clamp, a feed cam for
moving the same lengthwise of the buttonhole, and means intermediate of the feed
cam and work clamp comprising a detachable connection whereby it may be
varied to increase the feed of the work clamp above the throw of the feed cam
or decrease the feed of the work clamp below the throw of the cam, substantially
as specified.
2. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work clamp, a feed cam, for
moving the same lengthwise of the buttonhole, a lever intermediate of the feed
cam and work clamp, and adjustable connections whereby it may be varied to
change the feed of the work clamp, substantially as specified.
3. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work carrying clamp, a cam
for operating said work clamp, a needle and concomitant parts for stitching work
held in the work clamp, and means operated by said cam for gradually varying
the amplitude of the jogging movement of the needle at predetermined times,
substantially as specified.
4. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work carrying clamp, a cam
for operating said work clamp, a needle and concomitant parts for stitching work
held in the work clamp, an oscillating lever and reciprocating rod for producing
the jogging movement of the needle, said reciprocating rod being capable of
engagement with said lever at different distances from the fulcrum of the latter,
and a rod connected at one end to said lever and having its other end operated
on by said cam whereby the reciprocating rod is changed with relation to said
oscillating lever, substantially as specified.
5. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work carrying clamp, mechanism
for operating said work clamp, a needle and concomitant parts for stitching
work held in the work clamp, and means for producing jogging movement of
the needle in different amplitudes comprising a vertically extending rod and a
cam under the bed of the machine, substantially as described.
6. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work carrying clamp a needle
and concomitant parts for stitching the work held in the work clamp, means for
producing jogging movements of the needle of different amplitudes, and a feed
cam for producing a longitudinal movement of the work clamp, said feed cam
having dwells at opposite points for suspending the longitudinal movement of
the work clamp while the amplitude of the jogging movement of the needle is
increased, substantially as specified.
7. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle and concomitant parts,
means for producing a jogging movement of different amplitudes in the needle,
a work carrying clamp, a feed cam for producing a longitudinal movement of
the said clamp, and having dwells for suspending longitudinal motion at certain
times, and a change cam for moving the work clamp transversely to vary the
position of stitches relatively to the middle line of the work clamp at about the
time of the beginning of the shifting of the work clamp by the change cam, and

page_text: at about the time of the end of the shifting of the work clamp by the change cam,
substantially as specified.
8. In a sewing machine, a work clamp consisting of a plate having a large
opening, two serrated bars crossing such opening, each of said serrated bars having
at the ends resilient supporting arms extending across the line of the other
serrated bar, substantially as specified.
9. In a sewing machine, the combination with the main shaft, a disc affixed
to said main shaft and having a protuberance upon one face, of a stop extending
adjacent to said disc, and means for locking said stop in position in front of the
disc so that the protuberance of said disc will engage the stop as the disc 15
rotated, substantially as specified.
10. In a sewing machine, the combination with a main shaft, a needle and
means in connection therewith operated by said shaft for reciprocating the
needle, a disc moving with said shaft, and having a protuberance upon one face,
of a stop extending adjacent to said face and means for operating said stop
comprising a spring actuated reciprocating rod having a projection, and a spring
actuated lever, said lever being adapted to move in the rear of the projection
when the spring of the rod moves the rod to engage with the said projection to
prevent the rod being moved by the protuberance, substantially as described.
11. In a sewing machine for making buttonholes having side ows of stitches
and barring stitches, the combination of a tension device and means for varying
the effect of the tension device with reference to the thread while the barring
stitches are to be formed.
12. In a sewing machine for making buttonholes having side rows of stitches
and barring stiteles, the combination of a tension device and means, comprising
a cam, for varying the effect of the tension device with reference to the thread
while the barring stitches are to be formed.
13. In a sewing machine for making buttonholes having side rows of stitches
and barring stitches, the combination of two tension devices and means for
making a change in one of them for said rows of stitches and the barring stitches.
14. In a sewing machine for making buttonholes having side rows of stitches
and barring stitches, the combination of a tension device, a stop mechanism
and means for changing said tension device when said stop mechanism. operates.
Dated this 28th day of June 1898.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant,