Improvements in Sewing Machines for use in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Nov., 1898-Accepted, 5th Aug., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines for use in the Manufacture of
Boots and Shoes.
We, MICHAL COLWELL MULLARKY, of 8, Hanover Street, Gentleman, and
WILLIAM HALES HINGSTON, of 882, Sherbrooke Street, Doctor of Medicine, both
of Montreal, Dominion of Canada, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to improvements in shoe sewing machinery and has
particular relation to that class of these machines in which the sewing material
consists of wire.
The object of our invention is to provide a device of this character which will
sew the sole of a boot or shoe to the upper from the inside of the shoe and
without cutting a channel, without turning, and without piercing a hole through
the sole of the shoe. A further object is to provide such a machine with means
for automatically regulating the pressure applied on the sole of the shoe during
the sewing operation. A further object is to provide a machine in which the
sewing material will be passed to a regulated distance from the top of the sole,
regardless of its thickness. A further object to provide a machine with means
for automatically regulating the stitch without regard to the thickness of the
sole. A further object is to provide a dust-proof shoe horn containing the
mechanism for operating the upright needle. A further object is to provide a
sewing machine needle for sewing with wire which can be readily inserted into
the needle bar and which will retain its position when the shoe is being rotated.
A further object is to provide a device which will make a uniform stitch on
both rounded and straight surfaces. A further object is to provide a stitch seam
formed of a continuous strip of wire having loops extending into the sole but not
entirely therethrough, the loops being held in position by means of a burr
crossing within the loop. A further object is to provide a machine of this class
in which the wire to form the stitch is formed in continuous strips. A further
object is to provide a machine of this class with means for corrugating the wire
burr before it is passed into the sole, preventing its easy withdrawal. A further
object is to provide a feed mechanism which, while the pressure is applied, will
remain out of contact with the edge of the sole, and which is operated only after
the pressure is released. A further object is to provide a feed device which will
automatically relieve the tension of the continuous wire strips to prevent the
withdrawal of the loop.
To these and other ends not particularly herein set forth, my invention consists
in the improved construction and combination of parts hereinafter fully described
and particularly set forth in the appended claims.
In the drawings, in which similar letters of reference indicate similar parts
in all of the figures:-
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a portion of our improved machine showing the
general construction of the operating portion.
Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same.

page_text: Figure 3 is a horizontal sectional view of the body, taken at a point a slight
distance above the horizontal driving shaft, the view showing the means for
regulating the height to which the upright needle is to be passed.
"
Figure 4 is a vertical longitudinal section of the upper portion of the body
and a portion of the head, the section showing the shooter" operating cam,
the side-needle operating cam and the connections between the side needle
carrier and its operating cam.
Figure 5 is a vertical transverse view of the parts shown in Figure 4, the view
being taken at right angles to that of Figure 4, and on the line 5-5 of Figure 6.
Figure 6 is a horizontal sectional view of the body, taken on the line 6-6 of
Figure 5, and showing the position of the "shooter" operating cam face.
Figure 7 is a horizontal sectional view of the body portion, taken on the
line 77 of Figure 4, the view showing the side-needle operating cam, and the
general form of the "shooter" plates.
Figure 8 is a central longitudinal sectional view of the head, showing the
various cams mounted on the upright shaft and also showing the various operat-
ing parts connected therewith.
Figure 9 is a horizontal sectional view, taken on a line above the lower cam,
showing the slide-plate operating cam, the slide-plate and its various cam
bearing surfaces.
Figure 10 is a similar view taken on a line above the second cam, showing the
wire feed operating cam, the lever actuated by said cam, and the ratchet wheel
for feeding the wire.
Figure 1 is a similar view, taken above the feed har operating cam, showing
the lever bar plate, the feed bar, the operating cam for said feed-bar, and the
wire feed rollers.
Figure 12 is a horizontal sectional view of the lever bar plate, showing the wire
feeding rollers, the passage for the wire, the cutter, and the side needle carrier.
Figure 13 is a sectional view, taken on the line 13-13 of Figure 12.
Figure 14 is a sectional view, taken on the line 14-14 of Figure 16, showing
the feed-bar spring actuated pin, the means for mounting the wire feed lever,
and the construction of the feed bar operating lever.
Figure 15 is a cross sectional view, taken on the line 15-15 of Figure 12,
showing the side needle carrier and its slide.
Figure 16 is a horizontal sectional view taken from above the cutter lever
operating cam, showing the cam, the cutter bar lever, and the parts located
below the line of the section.
Figure 17 is a horizontal sectional view of one of the cam operating ends of
the cutter bar lever, showing the means for adjusting the movement of said
lever.
Figure 18 is a horizontal sectional view, taken on a line above the feed bar
operating lever, showing the operating cam, the feed bar operating lever and its
connections, and the various other parts located below the line of the section.
Figure 19 is a vertical transverse section of the head, taken at right angles to
Figure 8.
Figure 20 is a horizontal sectional view taken on a line above the wiper cam,
and showing the rocking lever for operating the pressure bar, the cam which
operates said lever, the slide for regulating the height to which the upright needle
passes, the wiper cam for operating the slide, the spring for applying the pressure
to the upright needle regulating mechanism, and the slide formed at the front of
the head, said slide containing the pressure bar and its operating mechanism.
Figure 21 is a front elevation of the head, with the face plate of the slide
removed.
Figure 22 is a vertical longitudinal section of the shoe horn showing the
operating parts, the manner in which it is connected to the body, and the move-
ment of the upright needle.
Figure 23 is a detail of the upper end of the needle bar,

page_text: Figure 24 is a detail view of the rocking frame, showing the slide blocks for
operating the needle bar.
Figure 25 is a sectional view of the upright needle, showing the grooves
for the wire, the opening for the passage of the wire and the gear wheel within
which it operates.
Figure 26 is a plan view of the parts shown in Figure 25.
Figure 27 is a sectional view of the rocking lever, showing the hinged joint.
Figure 28 is a similar view, showing the stitch formed in sewing three pieces
of the leather sole together, and also showing the difference in the depth of the
loop when sewing through the varying thicknesses.
Figure 29 is a sectional view, drawn to an enlarged scale, of the top of the
shoe horn, showing the gearing therein.
In the sewing of shoe soles to uppers, by machinery, it has heretofore been the
practice to make the stitch of two varying forms, one of which is the chain
stitch, formed by the use of the McKay" machine, and the lock, as formed by
the use of the "Goodyear" machine. Both of these machines make use of thread
the thread being waxed during its passage through the machine.
To unite the sole and the upper by the McKay process, the sewing is done
from the bottom of the sole and therefore from the outside of the shoe, and to
protect the thread from wear, it must be inserted within a channel which is
cut on the outer face of the shoe, the channel being afterwards closed by pressing
the turned up portion unto the main portion of the sole. In this construction,
several disadvantages appear, the principal ones being the fact that thread is
used, the thread being easily worn through, and when worn, the stitches are
liable to become loosened, the wax coating on the thread being the only means
for holding it in place. Another disadvantage consists in the forming of the
channel, this requiring a waste of time both in forming the channel and then
closing it after it has been formed, while a shoe in which this channel is formed
wears faster by reason of the fact of the liability of it becoming loosened whenever
one portion of the turned down portion becomes worn through, thus exposing
the sewing threads.
Some of these disadvantages disappear in the use of the Goodyear process, in
which the sewing is from the inside of the shoe, the stitch being known as the
lock stitch" which eliminates the liability of the sole becoming loose when
one of the threads becomes worn through. But in this process, the shoe must be
turned after sewing, which necessitates the re-shaping of the shoe after having
been sewed, causing a loss of time, in addition to which some shoes are entirely
ruined in the turning thus making an entire loss.
Both processes require the use of waxed thread, which is disadvantageous as the
thread is easily worn through, and the wax coating becomes hardened, causing
the threads to break if the sole is bent.
To obviate these various disadvantages, and provide a strong and substantial
fastening, yet which will allow of the sole being flexible, we make use of the
machine hereinafter described, which sews with spooled wire instead of thread,
the machine forming a lock stitch which will securely unite the sole, no matter
what its thickness may be, to the upper, the sewing taking place from the
inside of the shoe, by means of which no channel is required to be cut in the
sole, nor need the shoe be turned after being sewed. In addition to this the
stitch is entirely hidden and there is no surface which is liable to be worn
through quickly as in the case of the channel.
To form the stitch seam, which will be hereinafter described in detail, we
provide a machine which we now proceed to describe in detail.
In each of the figures of the drawing, the machine is shown with all operating
parts located in the same relative positions, excepting in Figure 12, wherein the
cutter is shown as having reached its limit of outward movement, in order that
the passage of the wire into the opening in the cutter may be clearly shown.
A designates the frame or body of our machine which is in the form of a

page_text: hollow column having a suitable pedestal, not shown. At the rear end of the
frame or column A, is provided an integral bearing a within which is mounted
the shaft a', which forms the driving power for the machine. A suitable friction
clutch a³ serves to connect the power from the main driving shaft to the shaft a',
the friction clutch being operated by suitable treadle mechanism, not shown.
The friction clutch used necessarily being such as will enable the machine to be at
all times under the control of the operator, and which will serve also to stop the
machine automatically at a pre-determined point of its revolution, upon release
of the treadle, the mechanism being such that the machine will always return to
its initial position before stopping.
The shaft a is extended longitudinally across and through the frame A and
has its free end provided with a cam a", the shaft a¹ being mounted in a suitable
bearing at in rear of the cam a³. The cam a is located in an extension a³ formed
at the front of the frame A, and has its front face a slight distance in rear of the
axial line of the upright needle.
Mounted, to have vertical movement, within a suitable vertical bearing a
formed in the extension 5, is a suitable plunger a³, the lower end of which is
mounted in a suitable slide a8. The plunger a is connected to the cam ³ by
means of a suitable roller connection, the cam a serving to give the plunger a
vertical movement for a purpose to be hereinafter described. The upper end of
the plunger a is provided with an opening a within which is adapted to be
placed a whirl a¹0, the whirl being provided with a quick acting screw-thread all
which is adapted to co-operate with a similar screw-thread formed on the
plunger a within the opening aº. The whirl a⁰ is provided at its lower end with
a suitable gear as to operate which I provide a suitable sliding rack a, the rear
end of which is connected with a small gear wheel mounted on a suitable
removable bearing plate secured to the extension and within the frame A,
said small gear wheel being operated by means of segmental gear a mounted on
the vertical shaft a¹6.
It will be apparent that when the shaft a¹ is rotated, the segmental gear als
will be oscillated and will in turn operate the sliding rack a through the
medium of the gear wheel a¹, the movement of the sliding rack a being com-
municated to the gear a¹ on the whirl 1, thus causing the whirl to be
rotated, and inasmuch as the connection between the whirl 10 and the plunger a
is formed by means of screw-threads, the whirl a will be moved vertically in
said plunger a distance corresponding to the distance which the rack a travels,
a long movement of the rack a¹³, raising the whirl a to its upper limit of move-
ment.
The upper end of the whirl 10 is provided with an annular flange a, between
which, and the top of the plunger a, are mounted suitable guide blocks as,
best shown in Figure 24. The slide blocks 18 are pivotally connected to one
end of a rocking-frame a, pivotally mounted as at 20 within the shoe horn a
The rear end of the rocking-frame is provided with a pivotally mounted
needle-bar a, in the upper end of which is mounted the upright needle a², the
. connections being by means of minute screw-threads a. To cause the upright
needle to have an exact vertical movement, we provide a suitable slide within
the shoe horn' near its top, against which a slide block 23, formed integrally
within the needle bar a, is adapted to have movement, a sleeve 27 serving to
prevent the needle bar from moving in an opposite direction and away from the
slide a While the sleeve a serves to prevent the needle bar from having a
tendency to move away from the slide a, yet, as an additional safeguard, to
make the movement of the needle bar true and exact, we provide the needle ba
with suitable shoulders at which are adapted to have movement against the
face of similar shoulders a formed within the shoe horn. It will be apparent
therefore that the movement of the needle bar a can not be varied, the slide
blocks a preventing its movement in one direction laterally, while the sleeve a
and the shoulders a6 a7 prevent its movement in the opposite direction.

page_text: The upright needle 23 is formed of suitable material having its contour pre-
ferably slightly oval. At the ends of the oval, and at the point of greatest
diameter, the needle is provided with a suitable groove as formed preferably
as shown in Figures 25 and 26, the groove at one end of the oval having a
connection with the opening formed in the base of the upright needle.
The extension is provided with a vertical opening within which is adapted
to be placed, to have a rotatory movement, the lower end of the shoe horn a²¹,
said lower end being provided with an opening a within which the plunger a is
adapted to have its movement. Vertically mounted on the top of the extension a
is a suitable stationary beveled gear within which a beveled gear, mounted
on a suitable shaft, in the shoe horn a", is adapted to mesh and operate. At
the opposite end of the shaft a, a beveled gear is adapted to co-operate with a
similar gear mounted on the shaft which extends upward through the horn
to the top, the upper end of the shaft being provided with a gear adapted to
operate a small beveled gear, which in turn operates a similar gear 40
mounted in the shoe horn at its top, and which is adapted to receive the oval
portion of the needle a
By means of this construction it will be obvious that as the shoe horn is rotated
within its bearing in the extension a, the rotatory movement of the shoe horn
will be communicated to the gear at by means of the connections heretofore
described, the motion of the gear being in such manner as will hold the
needle in a fixed position regardless of the position of the horn. While the
gear will hold the needle 23 stationary, yet, as the needle bar a revolves
with the shoe horn while the needle remains stationary, it will be apparent that
the needle bar 22 will have a movement about the needle, but, inasmuch as the
connection between the needle bar and the needle is made by means of the
minute screw-threads 2, the vertical movement of the needle within the needle
bar itself will be but slight and will have no effect whatever upon the operation
of the needle itself. As the needle 23 must be subjected to a considerable amount
of pressure, it will be apparent that the connection between the needle bar
and the needle must be strong and it is for this reason that we make use of the
minute screw-threads a²
To prevent a downward movement of the needle bar beyond its proper
distance, we provide a suitable buffer a", by means of which the downward move-
ment of the rear end of the rocking frame 19 will be stopped with a cushioned
movement, thus preventing any undue effect which might be caused by the
rocking frame contacting with a solid stop or buffer.
The shoe horn a21 is mounted on a centre point at formed in a bearing a,
this construction serving to retain the horn in its true alignment. A removable
cap serves to close the opening formed at the top of the bracket portion of
the shoe horn and thereby closes the inside of the horn against the entrance of
any foreign substances. A suitable guide a for the upright needle wire, extends
upward through the body of the shoe horn.
A suitable bracket is removably connected to the shoe horn, which bracket
is adapted to contain the spool at which carries the wire adapted for use with the
upright needle, the wire passing from the spool upward through the guide a
into the opening 20 formed in the base of the needle, and then carried upward
and over the top of the needle and within the groove, the end of the wire,
when the first stitch is made, being bent over the upper end of the needle a
to form a loop. This is done to enable the needle to carry the wire loop into the
material being sewed. After the first stitch is made, however, this is not
required as the end of the wire is secured in the material in fixed position, the
needle carrying the wire into each successive stitch automatically until the
entire material is sewed, when the wire for the upright needle is cut off and
the shoe removed.
13 designates the central vertical upright shaft, which is adapted to be driven
by means of a suitable gear connection 6 operated by the shaft a¹. The shaft B

page_text: extends upwardly through the cap plate and head I, and has, removably
affixed thereto, the cams hereinafter described, for operating the various portions
of the machine which have not been described.
To better explain the various operations of the different cams, it is thought
best to describe each in detail in the order in which they are placed upon the
shaft, beginning with the lower cam, and following with the cam above the last
described. As hereinbefore explained, the figures of the drawing show the
position of the cams on the shaft B, with relation to each other, all being shown
at the period of rotation of the shaft B3, when the machine is in position for the
making of a new stitch, the material having been fed forward, as hereinafter
described.
"
The first cam to be described, is the cam face 3 formed on the underside of
the face cam hereinafter described. This cam serves the purpose of operating
what I term a shooter" frame C, formed of two plates c located above and
below the face cam 6, the two plates being connected together by suitable
braces c. The lower plate e is provided, on its upper face, with an integral
Jug which is adapted to form a bearing for the contact roller which rides
against the cam face 63 and serves to give the "shooter" frame a vertical
downward movement. Secured to the inner face of the frame or body A and at
diametrically opposite sides thereof, are brackets having suitable openings for
the reception of pins adapted to have vertical movement in said openings, the
upper ends of said pins abutting against the lower face of the lower plate c.
Springs are mounted in said openings, surrounding the shank of said pins and
serve to force the shooter frame upward when the contact roller 3 passes from
its position on one portion of the cam face 63 to its other position. The upper
face of the upper plate is provided with suitable pins which are adapted to
extend upward through the cap plate for a purpose which will be hereinafter
described. These pins are arranged on opposite sides of the central line drawn
longitudinally of the machine, the pins being arranged in series, the front series
having a greater length than the rear series, and therefore extending to a
greater height.
It will be obvious that when the contact roller is riding against the raised
portion of the cam face 63, the shooter frame will be held in its lowermost position,
against the action of the springs c, but when the roller has reached the point of
changing, the springs co will cause the "shooter" frame to move upward, with a
quick motion, inasmuch as the change in the position of the riding face of the
cam is abrupt. When the cam face 63 has been rotated a sufficient distance
for the contact roller to contact with the opposite changing point, it will be
readily seen that the "shooter" frame will be moved downward against the action
of the spring c, but with a slower movement than that of the upward movement
of the "shooter" frame, inasmuch as the change is less abrupt than the change
hereinbefore described. As the contact roller c³ is located above the lower plate c,
any downward movement of the contact roller c³ will force the entire shooter
frame C with its pins 7 downward.
<
"
As it is necessary, in the operation of the machine, as hereinafter described,
that the shooter" frame C be capable of moving to various heights, it is
essential that the frame C have a yielding upward actuating means, while the
downward movement must bring the frame C to its lower position. This yielding
means is provided by the pins and springs c, which force the frame Cupward
until its movement is stopped by means hereinafter described. This stop may
occur before the contact roller reaches the height of the one portion of the cam
face 3, in which case the roller c³ will not make a contact until it reaches the
changing point where the "shooter" frame C is again moved downward.
The face of the cam is formed preferably as shown in Figure 7, from which
it will be seen that the period of operation is confined to half of its revolution.
The operating groove formed in the face of the cam is adapted to receive a roller d
connected with a sliding link d, which is mounted to have movement in the

page_text: slides formed in the cap plate 61. The upper end of the link dis bifurcated
to receive an extension d³ formed on the lower portion of the side needle.
carrier D). The extension is provided with an elongated slot d³, adapted to
receive a pin do which connects the extension with the bifurcated portion of
the link d¹. The needle carrier 1) is preferably formed of the
lower portion and upper portion d, the connection being made
by suitable screw-threaded pins which are adapted to to force the
upper and lower portions d d towards each other and firmly bind and
hold the side needle, which is adapted to be placed within suitable grooves
formed on the meeting face of said upper and lower portions. As the side
needle must necessarily be placed at the center, the pins are provided with
suitable openings through which the needle passes as best shown in Figures 4,
12 and 15. Suitable nuts are secured on the pins and serve to bind the
upper and lower portions of the needle carrier D together.
It will be apparent that as the shaft B rotates the roller d will follow the
contour of the operating groove formed on the face cam 64 and cause the link d¹
to have two movements forward and backward in its slides, the one following
the other with but a slight period of rest between the two motions, and that the
first motion will be of greater length than the second, while the forward move-
ment of the link will be quicker on its first motion than on its second. The
link being mounted in slides fixedly formed on the cap plate ¹ will have an
exact central horizontal movement which cannot vary, while the side needle
carrier is mounted in slides formed in the lever bar plate, which is adapted to be
raised and lowered. As the link and side needle carrier D) are pivotally con-
nected together, the connection being an automatically adjustable one, and both
are mounted in slides, it will be obvious that any movement of the link d, caused
by the operating groove of the face cam b', will be communicated to the side
needle carrier D, without any loss of time or power.
E designates a slide plate mounted within a recess formed in the top of the
cap plate The slide plate E is provided with an opening e within which
the side cam bis adapted to operate, the said slide plate being
provided with a bearing plate e against which the side of the cam
19 adapted to operate during portion of its revolution. A bearing
spring e, connected to the slide plate E, serves to move the slide plate E forward
when the outer face of the cam contacts with the operating face of the spring e².
The set screw e secured in the cap plate 6' and extending into the recess of the
cap plate, serves to regulate the distance forward which the slide plate can move.
It will be apparent that while the rearward movement of the slide plate is
fixed, its normal position being as shown in Figure 9, the forward movement
must be capable of being regulated, by reason of the fact that the stitch seam is
formed at varying distances from the edge of the sole, in different styles of shoes,
and as the movement of the slide must correspond with this varying distance, a
movable contact plate must be formed to enable the cam which has a fixed
movement, to operate when the movement of the slide plate E is limited by the
position of the set screw e³, and this is accomplished by means of the bearing
spring e³.
Inasmuch as the parts of the mechanism operated by the cam 66 are connected
to the lever bar plate, it is thought best to describe these plates in detail before
describing the action of the cam 6 and the mechanism it operates.
E designates the lever bar plate which is adapted to rest on the rear portion
of the slide plate E at its rear end and on an adjustable pine located at the front
of the cap plate. The lever bar plate is bifurcated at its rear end and has,
pivotally connected with said bifurcated portion, a block f which is secured to
the slide plate E-by means of the tapping screw f'. The plate F is provided, in
its front portion, with a suitable longitudinal slide within which the side
needle carrier D) is adapted to be movable as herein before explained. At the
front end of the lever bar plate F, a suitable transverse slide f³ is provided

page_text: within which is adapted to be placed the cutter, the operation of which will
presently appear.
A cap portion f* is secured to the front of the plate F and
serves to retain the feed bar in position, and also serves as a rear support for
the sole, when the feed nose is disengaged from the edge of the sole.
To the under side of the lever bar plate F is pivotally secured the wire feed
cperating lever f which is operated by means of the cam 6. One side of the
lever is provided with a suitable spring actuated pin f, the front end of
which is adapted to contact with and rotate a ratchet wheel f, mounted in a
suitable bearing formed at the side of the lever bar plate, the movement of said
ratchet wheel serving to operate a small grooved roller f mounted in said
bearing secured to the side of the lever plate F. It will be seen that the
lever f, when operated by the cam 66 is caused to move inwards toward the
operating shaft B, thus causing the pin fe to contact with a tooth of the ratchet-
wheel and causing said wheel to rotate (clockwise in Figure 10); this in turn
causing the wire to be fed forward step by step in an obvious manner.
A similar grooved roller is removably secured in a removable bearing con-
nected to the lever bar plate in juxtaposition to the afore-mentioned bearing, the
rollers f f being mounted in such a position that an opening is formed between
them, through which the wire passes, the rollers forming a contact with the wire
as it is passed from the wire reel f10 into the passage fl formed in the lever bar
plate F, the wire in passing between the grooved rollers f f being slightly corru-
gated by the corrugations formed in the grooves of the rollers. The passage f"
leads through the fever bar plate F to the slide f3, the wire passing through the
passage and into an opening formed in the cutter as hereinafter described.
In order that the side needle 6 can pass outward through the center of the
front of the lever bar plate F, we provide a suitable opening f as clearly shown
in Fig. 12.
It will be apparent that as the cam 6 is rotated, it will cause the lever f to be
moved in such manner that the front of the pin will co-act with the ratchet
wheel, thus feeding the wire forward a fixed distance at each revolution of the
shaft Band at the same time the wire will receive the slight corrugations by
reason of the corrugated faces formed in the grooves rollers f³ f.
The lever bar plate F is provided with an opening f13 through which the shaft B
passes, and within which a cam 67, the purpose of which will now be set forth,
is mounted to be actuated by said shaft.
The upper face of the lever bar plate is provided with a recess f¹ within which
is adapted to be placed and have movement the rear end of the feed bar f15. This
feed bar is provided with an elongated slot f16 adapted to receive a fixed stud f17
formed on the lever bar plate 1. The rear face of the feed bar f15 is adapted to
contact with the face of the cam 17 at all times and is held in contact by means
of the spring actuated stud f18 located in the opening f" in the lever bar
plate as clearly shown in Figure 14. The front end of the feed
bar is bifurcated as at 20 and in the opening formed between said bifurcated
portion is slidably mounted the feed nose f2 formed substantially as shown in
Figure 16. The feed nose f¹ is adjustable in said opening by reason of the set
screw 23, said screw serving to regulate the distance of the extreme front end of
the feed nose from the center of the upright needle, in order that the feed may be
regulated according to the distance it is desired to have between the stitch and the
edge of the sole of the boot or shoe.
By this construction it will be apparent that as the cam 67 rotates, the feed
nose will be brought into and out of engagement with the edge of the sole of
the boot or shoe and allow, by reason of its being withdrawn within the opening
at the front of the lever bar plate F, the feed bar to have its position changed as
herein before described, without any liability of the boot or shoe being carried
backward with it during its movement, in preparing for a new feed.
Pivotally mounted on the upper side of the lever bar plate F is the cutter bar G
the front end of which is provided with an opening to receive a pin and collar

page_text: connection g' formed in the top of the cutter g². The rear end of the lever G
is bifurcated, the inner face of the bifurcated ends being adapted to engage the
face of the cam 68. The cam acting face of the bifurcated ends of the lever are
adjustably mounted in suitable slotted openings g³ to allow of the exact regulation
of the movement of the cutter at the front end of said lever. The cutter g² is
provided with an opening g within which the wire is adapted to be fed by means
of the lever f, when the cutter is at its farthest point away from the longitudinal
center of the lever bar plate F.
By this construction it will be apparent that when the lever G is at its farthest
movement on one side, the cutter g will be in such position that the wire from
the passage fl will pass into the opening g'a sufficient distance to form the desired
length of the burr, the length of burr being regulated by the movement of the
lever against the ratchet wheel f7. As the cam 68 is moved, it will cause the
lever G to be oscillated on its pivot thus moving the cutter g² towards the longi-
tudinal center of the lever bar plate F', this movement causing the wire to be cut
off as will be clearly understood by referring to the drawings. The movement
of the cutter is continued toward the center until the opening g', which contains
the burr which has just been cut off from the wire, comes into an alignment with
the opening f, the side needle which is then in position for driving the burr
into the opening in the sole of the boot or shoe formed by its first movement, then
driving the burr forward, the side needle passing through the openings g f¹³
during the operation. After the side needle has inserted the burr into the sole
of the boot or shoe and has been withdrawn, the cutter is moved backward into
position for the reception of a new burr, when the operation is repeated.
Pivotally mounted on the pivot point upon which the lever G is mounted, is the
feed bar operating lever H, the front end of which is provided with an elongated
slot adapted to receive the pin and collar connection formed with the feed bar f15.
The rear end of the lever H is bifurcated and is adapted to be operated by means
of the cam b, as shown in Figur 18. One of the bifurcated ends of the lever H
is provided with an adjustable cam acting face mounted within a slotted
recess, while the opposite end of the lever is provided with the spring bearing h.
This construction is such that as the cam 69 is rotated, the lever H will be
oscillated to move the feed nose f21 backwards and forwards across the front of the
lever bar plate F and forms the means for feeding the work. By reason of the
peculiar shape of the cam 6, as shown in Figure 18, the feed bar after carrying
the work forward its full distance, and thereby driving the wire from the reel
on the shoe horn, to its full length, the sudden change in the face of the cam b
causes the feed bar to have a short movement backward, causing the work to be
carried back and creating thereby a slight slack in the wire for the upright needle,
thus preventing any tendency of the wire to cut the sole of the boot or shoe
when the upright needle makes its next stitch, and allows the needle to more
easily pass into the sole.
I designates the head of the machine, which is secured to the cap plate by
suitable cap screws. The head I is provided with a transverse opening i, within
which the various cams, herein described, are adapted to operate, and also with
a longitudinal opening, communicating with the transverse opening i, the lever
bar plate F being adapted to operate in said longitudinal opening. The front of
the head I is provided with a slide having a vertical slot for the reception of
he slidable pressure foot it. The slide is provided with a transverse slot
which communicates with the vertical slot and serves to allow of the passage of
he
pressure
bar lever and the upright needle adjustment, to the pressure foot it.
The pressure foot it consists of a slide bar 6 adapted to slide within the vertical
lot 3, and has its lower end provided with a removable pressure plate. The
lide bar is also provided with a vertical slot 8 within which is adapted to slide
he adjustment slide 9, which slide is, in turn, provided with a vertical slot 210,
which communicates with the slot in the slide 2. The upper end of the adjust-
nent slide is provided with a slotted opening having its lower end enlarged

page_text: for the reception of the head of the adjusting screw 2 which serves to raise and
lower the adjustment slide in the vertical slot 28. The upper end of the sliding
bar is provided with a screw-threaded opening 213 within which the pressure
releasing screw is adapted to have movement, said pressure releasing screw
being provided with a screw-threaded opening within which the adjusting
screw has its movement. Adjusting nuts are mounted on the said adjusting
screw, one of which is provided with an operating handle.
A suitable
lock nut serves to retain the adjusting screw in position after having been
adjusted. designates a removable face plate provided with a vertical slot 19
having communication with the slots 10
Fixedly mounted on the upright shaft B above the feed cam 9, is a side cam 610,
within which, one end of a pivotally mounted rocking lever J is adapted to have
operative connection by means of a suitable pin and roller stud joperating in the
grooved face of the cam. The opposite end of the lever J extends forwardly into
and through the slots and, the adjustment slide normally resting on the
upper face of the forward end of said lever. Between the pivotal pin of the
rocking lever and the front end of said rocking lever, the lever is provided with a
hinged joint, the construction being such as to form an opening, having
oppositely inclined sides, at the top of the lever, this opening being adapted
to receive a suitable friction roller or block jt normally held in contact with the
inclined sides of the opening by means of a spring .
To the top of the cam 610 is secured a suitable wiper cam which is adapted to
ride against the face of a wiper k formed on the end of a slide K mounted to have
longitudinal movement in the head I. The slide K is provided on one side with a
suitable rack gear ', which is adapted to co-operate with a segmental gear a
mounted on the upper end of the shaft a Pivotally connected to the front end of
the slide K is a sliding wedge, the front end of which extends through the
slots and below the front end of the rocking lever J. In order that the
slide K may have a quick action when released from contact with the wiper cam 6",
we provide an actuating spring which serves to force the slide K towards the
shaft B.
As shown in the drawings, the front end of the lever J and the sliding wedge k³
practically fill the slot when the pressure bar it is in its upper position which is
when the side cam bio begins its period of rest. This serves to hold the pressure
bar above the work to be done and allows of the insertion of the work on the
shoe horn and allows the feed nose 21 to move the work forward. As the cam 610,
carrying the wiper cam 6", is rotated, the wiper cam 6 contacts with the wiper kand
causes the slide K and the sliding wedge 3 to be moved forward against the action
of the spring, thus releasing the adjustment slide from its locked position.
After this is done, the rocking lever J is oscillated on its pivot j' by means of the
roller connection riding up the inclined face of the groove in the cam 610, this
movement of the rocking lever serving to allow the pressure bar to fall down-
ward on to the face of the sole which is to be sewed. As the thickness of the
sole is sometimes greater than the distance between the upper face of the shoe
horn and the lower face of the pressure bar when the pressure bar is in its lower-
most position, and as the movement of the rear end of the rocking lever J is the
same in all cases, and as such movement of the rocking lever would cause a ioo
great pressure on the sole, we have provided the hinged joint 12, as hereinbefore
described, this construction enabling the rear end of the rocking lever J to move
upward to its upper position while the lower face of the pressure bar rests on
the sole of the shoe, without increasing the pressure on the sole, the front end of
the lever remaining stationary, the roller or block j being forced upward, against
the action of the spring as the roller j passes up the inclined face of the groove
on the cam 10, and when the pressure on the sole exceeds the resistance of the
block, which resistance is regulated by the shape of the opening. After the
roller has passed up the inclined face of the cam 610 and the pressure of the lever
is applied to the pressure bar, the wiper cam 6 passes beyond contact with the

page_text: wiper k and the spring forces the slide K rearwards until the inclined face of
the sliding wedge binds against the lower face of the lever J and the lower
face of the slot 10, thus locking the pressure bar in fixed position and preventing
its upward movement until released by the wiper cam 6 again coming into contact
with the wiper k on its next revolution.
By referring to Figures 8 and 21, it will be apparent that the adjustment
screw will raise and lower the adjustment slide 2, to adjust it, and such adjust-
ment regulates the distance between the lower face of the pressure plate and
the upper face of the shoe horn, this adjustability allowing of the sewing of soles
of varying thicknesses. This adjustment, however, is used to regulate the general
thickness, such as sewing shoes with two soles or with three soles, as desired. The
individual adjustment for each shoe, that is the passing from thick to thinner
portions of the same sole, is done automatically as hereinafter explained.
The pressure release screw 24, while it forms the connection between the adjust-
ment slide and the pressure bar, yet the specific purpose of this screw is to
raise the pressure bar, whenever the machine is being operated to exhibit the
working of the parts, or when it is desired to move the machine only a part of its
revolution, the rotation of the screw ¹ serving to raise the pressure plate above
the limit of movement of the upright needle.
By reason of the construction herein before set forth, it will be perfectly obvious
that the movement of the lever J will be fixed, by reason of the actuating groove
in the cam 10, and this would tend to increase the pressure on a sole of great
thickness, but this increase of pressure is eliminated by the automatic pressure
regulating means formed by the hinged joint, the pressure being the same
whether the sole be thick or thin. When the proper amount of pressure has been
applied, the pressure bar is locked in position by the slide-wedge moving
inward until its upper edge contacts with the lower edge of the front end of the
rocking lever, and this position is maintained until the upright needle and side
needle have both performed their work, when the pressure is released as herein
described.
In the stitch formed by the machine described, it will be noticed that the loops
extend into the sole to within a certain distance from its outer face, and this
distance remains the same irrespective of the thickness of the sole. This distance
may be varied, as desired, by adjusting the screw 12, in an obvious manner,
especially when it is remembered that the movement of the adjustment slide 2"
is the same without any regard to its relative position with he pressure bar .
By referring to Figure 28, it will be seen that the length of each loop varies
with the thickness of the sole, and inasmuch as it is desired that the loops must
extend to within a pre-determined distance of the face of the sole, as herein before
explained, this variation in the thickness requires that the movement of the up-
right needle must be automatically varied in a corresponding manner, and it is
to perform this work that we have provided the slide K and rack gear k¹,
operation of which will now be described.
the
As the adjustment slide 2 moves downward with the pressure bar the move-
ment of the rocking lever J allowing of this downward movement, it will be
apparent that when the pressure bar does not move downward its full limit of
movement, which is the case when sewing, the adjustment slide will have a similar
shortened movement, and as the space between the lower face of the front end of
the lever J and the lower end of the slot 10 is lessened in an obvious manner when
the pressure bar does not pass down to its full limit of movement, the sliding
wedge will be prevented from passing inward to its full distance when actuated
by the spring. This necessarily limits the movement of the slide K and there-
fore limits the oscillatory movement of the shaft a¹ to a corresponding extent.
As the lower end of the shaft a¹ is provided with a segmental gear which must
necessarily have the same movement as the gear, this limitation of the move-
ment of the gear will limit the movement of the segmental gear a¹ and by
means of the gear wheel a¹, necessarily limits the movement of the rack a¹³.

page_text: As the rack a3 is adapted to impart a rotary movement to the whirl a, it will
be seen that a limitation of this movement of the rack a will vary the height
to which the whirl a will be forced by reason of the quick-acting screw-threads.
When the whirl 10 has reached the end of its upward movement caused by the
action of the rack 3, the movement of the whirl a being dependent on the
movement on the rack a, the face cam a causes the plunger to be moved
downward, carrying with it the whirl a, which is then in its upper position.
This downward movement of the plunger a and the whirl al does not communicate
motion to the rocking frame a until the lower face of the annular flange a con-
tacts with the upper face of the slide blocks a18, but when this contact takes place,
a further downward movement of the plunger and whirl will cause the rocking
frame a to be rocked on its pivot thus causing the needle bar to be raised and
forcing the needle containing the wire into the shoe to its proper distance. After
the needle has made its insertion, the plunger is moved upward again by the action
of the cam a³, carrying with it the slide blocks a18 and thus moving the rocking
frame on its pivot and moving the needle bar and needle downward out of
contact with the sole of the shoe. The whirl al retains its upper position until
the wiper cam 6 again contacts with the wiper when the shaft a¹ will be rotated
and thus cause the rack a to rotate the whirl a¹0 in an opposite direction, bring-
ing it downward into its normal position where it rests until the wiper cam again
passes from contact with the wiper shaft in the making of a new stitch.
The movement of the plunger a is the same in each revolution of the cam a³, so
that on the movement of the whirl a depends the time when the needle bar begins
its upward movement. A movement of the rack to its full extent, will rotate the
whirl to a height which would cause the annular flange a to contact with the
sliding blocks as only when the plunger has reached a point near its lower limit
of movement, in which case the upward movement of the needle bar and needle
would be slight, in fact, such needle-bar movement would be limited to the remain-
ing downward movement of the plunger a', and as this movement of the whirl is
regulated by the position of the sliding wedge, it will be apparent that the up-
right needle will move within the same distance from the upper face of the
sole as it rotates on the shoe horn, regardless of the thickness of the sole itself.
As it is desirable to rotate the machine by hand, especially in the case of
accident, or when adjusting the various parts, we provide a hand wheel 12 mounted
on the upper end of the shaft B, above the head I.
The operation of the machine is as follows:
With the machine in the position shown in the drawings, which is the position
occupied by the parts just after the feed has moved the work forward its proper
distance, as the shaft B rotates, the first movement of the parts is occasioned by
the cam which by reason of the roller riding up the inclined groove of the
cam, causes the rocking lever to be oscillated on its pivot which forces downward
the pressure bar into contact with the sole of the shoe or boot. At this time the
wiper cam is in contact with the wiper and the sliding wedge is in its
forward position. At this time the cam 68 is in engagement with the cutter bar
lever G, the cutter being on its way away from the center of the lever bar plate F.
The remaining cams are not in operative position.
As the shaft B rotates the wiper k is released from contact with the wiper
cam 6 and the spring actuates the shaft and thus raises the whirl a¹0 to the
proper distance.
The cam a then operates as herein before described causing the
upright needle to make its stitch and be withdrawn from the sole of the shoe.
As the upright needle is passing into the sole of the shoe, the feed cam 67 is
released from contact with the feed har f5 and the spring f18 forces the feed bar
inward withdrawing the feed-nose within the cap ft and the lever bar plate F.
As the upright needle continues its movement upward, the contact roller is
released from its contact with the cam face 63 and allows the shooter frame C
to pass upward, carrying with it in its upward movement the lever bar plate F,
the latter passing upward until the upper face of the cap f* abuts against an

page_text: adjusting screw mounted on the pressure bar. The pins c extend upward
through the cap plate, to a point almost in contact with the lower portion of the
lever bar plate F. Figures 9 and 10 show the front pair of pins extending up-
ward within the plate, while the rear pair are located below the slide plate
"E.
The front pair are longer than the rear pair, so that the lever bar plate can be
moved on its pivot to a certain extent, but when that limit is reached, any further
upward movement, will cause the rear set of pins to contact with the under face of
the side plate, and further movement will be with the lever bar plate held in the same
inclination. This is necessary, in view of the fact, that a too great inclination of
the lever bar plate, would cause the side needle to pass into the sole, with
tendency to escape the loops made by the upright needle. The pins are not
seen in full in elevation in the drawings in view of the fact that they are located
directly behind the carriage of the side needle.
As the adjusting screw is mounted on the pressure bar, it will be apparent
that the upward movement of the lever bar plate F is automatically regulated by
the movement of the pressure bar and therefore ensures the insertion of the wire
burr at the same distance from the top of the sole regardless of the thickness of
the sole.
As shown in the drawings, and especially in Figure 8, the adjusting screw c
is adjustably mounted in the pressure bar . The object attained by making
this screw adjustably is to so regulate the height to which the lever bar
plate F passes, as will cause the side needle to enter the edge of the sole at the
proper place to pass within the loop, in order that the burr will be placed in its
proper position. It is to be understood that this adjustment only takes place
when the distance between the outer face of the sole of the shoe and the loop is
varied, as hereinbefore explained, the variation of the height of the lever bar
plate F, during the stitching of the seam, to correspond with the length of the
loop, being governed by the movement of the pressure bar, in an obvious
manner.
As the shooter frame moves upward, against the action of a spring f23 mounted
above the block f and serving to normally hold the lever bar plate F downward,
and also against the action of a spring secured to the under face of the lever
bar plate and to the frame of the machine, the face cam 6 begins its operation
by the roller d entering the first of the outwardly extending grooves formed on
the cam and thereby causes the side needle carrier D to begin its outward
movement.
At this period of the revolution of the shaft B, the wire feed cam 66 begins
its operation on the operating lever f5 and feeds the wire into the opening g
formed in the cutter g².
As the side needle carrier is travelling forward, and after the shooter frame C
has been moved upward, the slide plate E is moved forward, by the action of
the cam 6 carrying with it the lever bar plate F, the lever bar plate moving out
until the face of the cap f abuts against the edge of the sole, which is then held
firmly in position by the pressure bar, the set screw e3 being regulated to stop
the forward movement of the slide E just as the cap ft reaches the edge of the
sole. The cam continues its movement, without changing the position of the
slide the cam operating against the bearing spring.
The movement of the side needle is so timed that the side needle passes into the
edge of the sole of the boot or shoe and under the loop left by the upright needle
just after the upright needle has commenced its downward movement, the two
needles in fact almost meeting, by which it will be seen that the wire loop can-
not be withdrawn by the downward movement of the upright needle.
As the side needle reaches the limit of its first forward movement, the cutter g²
begins its movement towards the center of the lever bar plate and reaches the
center just after the side needle has passed out of the path of movement of the
cutter. At this time, the feed bar f15 commences its movement to be in position

page_text: to feed the boot after the stitch has been formed, this movement being caused by
the cam 6º engaging with one side of the feed bar operating lever H.
After the cutter 2 has passed to its position where the opening g' is in align-
ment with the opening f, the side needle begins its second forward movement,
and carries the wire burr into the opening made on the first forward movement
of the side needle, the side needle in the second movement having a shorter motion
than on its first movement, as clearly shown in the drawings, the difference being
the length of the burr.
After the burr has been inserted, and the side needle is withdrawn from the
sole, but during its rearward movement, the cam engages with the contact
roller and draws the shooter frame downward, allowing the lever bar plate F
to pass down to its normal position, just after which the cam 6 causes the slide
plate E to be moved rearward thus bringing the face of the cap f* away from the
edge of the sole of the shoe, while at the same time the feed bar f¹³ is moved
forward by the action of the feed cam 67.
The feed bar f15 moves forward until the feed nose f21 engages with the edge
of the sole of the boot or shoe after which the lever J is oscillated by the roller j
passing down the inclined face of the groove of the cam 610, thus causing the
pressure bar to move upward, the wiper k just prior to the movement of the
roller coming in contact with the wiper cam 611, causing the slide K to move for-
ward, releasing the sliding wedge from engagement with the rocking lever J,
and allowing the pressure bar i to move and the rocking lever to operate.
As the pressure bar is released, the feed bar f15 is moved forward by the
action of the feed cam. 69, thus feeding the work forward, and as hereinbefore
explained, carrying the work forward and then returning it a slight distance to
relieve the tension on the wire, when the machine is in position for another stitch.
By the construction shown and described therein, I form a stitch seam such as
shown in Figure 28, in which L represents a shoe, comprising the upper 1, the
outer sole, slip sole 2, and inner sole 13. The upright needle in making its
upward movement makes the opening and carrying the wire strip into the
opening, the wire remaining in the opening and forming loops 17. As hereinbefore
explained the side needle passes into the edge of the sole, passing between the
upper edge of the upright needle and the loop 17, forming the openings 18, within
which the burrs 16 are placed upon the second forward movement of the side
needle.
The stitch seam thus formed is a lock stitch and cannot be pulled out as the
burrs 16, which are about three sixteenths of an inch in length, extend across the
loop, in an opening made to fit it.
It will be readily understood that no channel is required, that no hole is pierced
through the sole, and that the sewing will be done from the inside of the shoe,
the shoe being complete when the last stitch is sewed, there being no turn to be
made or a channel to close.
The length of the loop being regulated by the thickness of the sole, and as this
regulating takes place prior to the movement of the upright needle, which feeds
the wire as well as inserts it, prevents the insertion of any surplus wire, and the
wire being always kept taut by the burr 76, there is no liability of the inner ends
of the loop being pushed into the inner part of the shoe and against the foot of
the wearer.
The wire used is of small diameter and therefore forms but a narrow line around
the side of the sole, but the fact that thin wire is used does not render the stitch
liable to be pulled out. In fact, in practice we have found that the wire, instead
of being pulled out, will have, by reason of the pressure of the leather on the
sides of the opening 4, a tendency to push the wire toward the center of the
opening, thus making the loop more taut.
As there is but a single line of wire on each side of the shoe, the stitch seam
made does not prevent the sole from being flexible, the burrs being inserted in the
side, not presenting any difficulties.

page_text: We do not limit ourselves to the precise construction of automatic pressure
regulating device herein described, but claim the right to use any suitable
mechanism for that purpose.
While we have shown necessary adjuncts in the machine, such as set screws,
wire adjustment devices, etc., we have not set them forth in detail as their con-
struction is obvious and form a necessary part of the construction of the machine
but do not form particular elements of our invention, being necessary adjuncts.
The advantages of this construction are many, the principal one being that we
have provided a construction which will operate in a perfect manner, and which
will unite several pieces of leather without regard to their thickness.
We reserve to ourselves the right to make any and all modifications that may
be necessary, commensurate with the breadth of the claims shown therein, such
changes and modifications being only used when necessary to make the device
more perfect in its operation.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-
1. A machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, comprising
a pivotally mounted work table; an upright needle having movement therein; a
pressure bar; a side needle having a movément at right angles to the movement
of said upright needle; and means for feeding the work when the pressure is
released.
2. A machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, comprising
a pivotally mounted work table; an upright needle having vertical movement
therein; an automatically regulated pressure bar; a side needle having a hori-
zontal movement across the path of movement of said upright needle; and means
for feeding the work when the pressure is released.
3. A machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, comprising
a pivotally mounted work table; an upright needle having a vertical movement
therein; a side needle having a movement across the path of movement of said
upright needle; an automatically regulated pressure bar adapted to contact with
and hold the work during the operation of said upright needle and said side needle;
and means for feeding the work forward when the pressure is released.
4. A machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoe, comprising a
work table; an upright needle having a vertical movement therein; a side needle
movable across the path of movement of said upright needle; a pressure bar;
means, operated by said pressure bar for regulating the movement of said upright
needle; and means for feeding the work forward when the pressure is released.
5. A machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, comprising
a pivotally mounted work table; an upright needle vertically movable therein;
a side needle movable across the path of movement of said upright needle; a
pressure bar; means for moving said pressure bar into contact with the work.
being operated upon, the pressure of said contact being automatically regulated;
and means for feeding the work forward when the pressure is released.
6. A machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, comprising
a pivotally mounted work table; an upright needle movable across the path of
movement of said upright needle; a pressure bar; means for moving said pres-
sure bar into and out of contact with the work being operated upon, the pressure
of said contact being automatically regulated; means, operated by the movement
of said pressure bar, for regulating the movement of said upright needle; and
means for feeding the work when the pressure is released.
7. A machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, comprising
a pivotally mounted work table; an upright needle. vertically movable therein;
a pressure bar; for regulating the movement of said upright needle; a side
needle movable across the path of movement of said upright needle; means for
automatically placing the said side needle in proper position relative to the

page_text: position assumed by said upright needle; and means for feeding the work when
the pressure is released.
8. A stitch seam for uniting a series of layers of material, in a boot or shoe,
comprising a strip of wire, forined with loops extending through the inner layers
and into the outer layers and burrs mounted in said outer layer and extending
across and within each of said loops.
9. A shoe hon for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a casing closed
against the entry of foreign substances, said casing being pivotally connected to
the body of the machine, and adapted to contain mechanism for holding a needle
in fixed position during its pivotal movement.
10. A shoe horn for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a casing closed
against the entry of foreign substances, said casing being pivotally connected to
the body of the machine, and adapted to contain mechanism for holding a needle
in fixed position during its pivotal movement, and also being adapted to contain
an upright needle and its operating parts.
11. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the needle bar, pro-
vided with sliding bearings; of a shoe horn, having similar bearings against
which the needle bar slide bearings are adapted to operate; and means, mounted
within said shoe horn for imparting a vertical movement to said needle bar.
12. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a needle bar having
sliding bearings, of a pivotally mounted shoe horn, having similar bearings
against which the needle bar sliding bearings are adapted to operate; an upright
needle removably located in said needle bar; and mechanism actuated by the
movement of said shoe horn for holding said needle in a fixed position but mov-
able in said needle bar.
13. The combination with a needle bar having a direct vertical movement
within a shoe horn, said needle bar being provided with a screw-threaded open-
ing; of an upright needle, having a screw-threaded shank adapted to be remov-
ably located and have pivotal movement within said screw-threaded opening.
14. The combination with a needle bar having a direct vertical movement
within a shoe horn; said needle. bar being provided with a screw-threaded open-
ing of an upright needle, having a screw-threaded shank adapted to be remov-
ably located and have pivotal movement within said screw-threaded opening;
said upright needle extending upward centrally from said shank.
15. An upright needle for shoe sole sewing machines comprising a screw-
threaded shank portion; a needle portion extending upward centrally therefrom;
and an opening formed in and extending through said shank pertion.
16. An upright needle for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a screw-
threaded shank portion; a needle portion extending upward centrally from said
shank portion; a groove formed on diametrically opposite sides and the top of
said needle portion; and an opening formed in and extending through said
shank portion; said opening having operative communication with the groove
on one side of said needle portion.
17. An upright needle for shoe sole sewing machines comprising a screw-
threaded shank portion; a needle portion extending upward centrally therefrom;
a groove formed on diametrically opposite sides and the top of said needle por-
tion;
and a flared opening formed in and extending through said shank portion;
the smaller end of said flared opening having operative communication with the
groove formed on one side of said needle portion.
18. In combination with a shoe horn pivotally connected to a shoe sole sewing
machine; of a bevel gear mounted therein, adapted to have operative connection
with a stationary gear mounted on said machine; said bevel gear, through inter-
mediate gearing, being adapted to actuate a small gear, located at the apex of
the horn, in a direction opposite to and at the same rate of movement of the
horn, said small gear being adapted to receive an upright needle, whereby said
needle will be held in a stationary position while said horn is being rotated.
19. In shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a vertical plunger

page_text: having a central opening; of a whirl mounted therein; a rack gear adapted to
actuate said whirl; and connections between said whirl and said plunger
whereby said whirl will be moved vertically in said plunger when said rack is
reciprocated.
20. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a vertical plunger
having a central opening; of a whirl operatively mounted in said opening to
have vertical movement, said whirl having a flange; a rack adapted to actuate
said whirl; a rocking frame mounted in juxtaposition to said whirl said rocking
frame being actuated by said plunger and said whirl; and a needle bar mounted
at the free end of said rocking frame, said needle bar being adapted to receive
a regulated vertical movement by the movements of said plunger and said whirl.
21. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a vertical plunger,
of a whirl mounted in said plunger; a rack gear adapted to actuate said whirl;
connections between said whirl and said plunger, whereby said whirl will be
moved vertically in said plunger when said rack is reciprocated; and means,
actuated by the pressure bars in said machine, for reciprocating said rack gear.
22. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a vertical plunger;
of a whirl mounted in said plunger; a rack gear adapted to actuate said whirl;
connections between said whirl and said plunger, whereby said whirl will be
moved vertically in said plunger when said rack is reciprocated; and means,
actuated by the movement of the pressure bar in said machine, for reciprocating
said rack gear to an automatically regulated distance.
23. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a vertical plunger;
of a whirl mounted in said plunger; a rack gear adapted to actuate said whirl;
connections between said whirl and said plunger whereby said whirl will be
moved vertically in said plunger when said rack is reciprocated; means actuated
by the movement of the pressure bar in said machine for reciprocating said rack
gear; and a needle bar adapted to be actuated by the movement of said whirl
and said plunger.
24. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a vertical plunger;
of a whirl mounted in said plunger; a rack gear adapted to actuate said whirl;
connections between said whirl and said plunger whereby said whirl will be
moved vertically in said plunger when said rack is reciprocated; and a needle
bar adapted to be actuated by the movement of said whirl and said plunger.
25. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a vertical plunger;
of a whirl mounted in said plunger; a rack gear adapted to actuate said whirl;
connections between said whirl and said plunger whereby said whirl will be
moved vertically in said plunger when said rack is reciprocated; means actuated
by the movement of the pressure bar in said machine for reciprocating said gear
to an automatically regulated distance; and a needle bar adapted to be actuated
by the movement of said whirl and said plunger.
26. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a pivotally mounted
work table; an upright needle having a vertical movement therein; a lever bar
plate mounted in the head of said machine; a side needle mounted in said lever
bar plate and adapted to have a reciprocating movement therein, said side needle
being adapted to move across the path of movement of said upright needle.
27. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a pivotally mounted
work table; an upright needle mounted therein and adapted to have a vertical
movement of a lever bar plate mounted in the head of said machine; a side
needle carrier mounted in said lever bar plate and adapted to have a movement
across the path of movement of said upright needle; and means for varying
the position of said side needle carrier during its period of movement.
28. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a lever bar plate
mounted in the head of said machine; a side needle carrier slidably mounted in
said lever bar plate; means for moving said lever bar plate to a regulated
position during the movement of said side needle carrier; and an upright needle
mounted to have a regulated movement in front of said lever bar plate.

page_text: 29. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a lever bar plate
mounted in the head of said machine; a side needle carrier mounted to have a
reciprocating movement therein; a shooter frame mounted in the path of move-
ment of said needle carrier and adapted to move said lever bar plate into a varied
position; and an upright needle mounted to have a vertical movement in front
of said lever bar plate.
30. A shooter frame for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a series of
plates fixedly connected together; pins mounted on the upper face of the top
plate; and means for varying the position of said frame within the body of the
machine.
31. A shooter frame for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a series of
plates fixedly connected together, pins mounted on the upper face of the top
plate; a cam face mounted to have movement with the driving power of said
machine; means connected to said frame and actuated by said cam face for
moving said frame in one direction; and auxiliary means for moving said frame
in the opposite direction.
32. A shooter frame for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a series of
plates fixedly connected together; pins mounted on the upper face of the top
plate; a cam face mounted to have movement with the driving power of said
machine; means connected to said frame and actuated by said cam face for
moving said frame in one direction; and auxiliary means mounted in the body
of the machine for moving said frame in the opposite direction.
33. A shooter frame for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a series of
plates fixedly connected together; pins mounted on the upper face of the top
plate; a cam face mounted to have movement with the driving power of said
machine; a contact roller mounted in said frame and actuated to ride against
said cam face for moving said frame in one direction; and auxiliary means
mounted in the body of the machine for moving said frame in the opposite
direction.
34. A shooter frame for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a series of
plates fixedly connected together; pins mounted on the upper face of the top
plate a cam face mounted to have movement with the driving power of said
machine; a contact roller mounted in said frame and adapted to ride against
said cam face for moving said frame in one direction; and spring actuated pins
mounted in the body of said machine for moving said frame in the opposite
direction.
35. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted therein and adapted to have a longitudinal movement during
a portion of the period of operation of said machine.
36. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted therein; and means actuated by the movement of the operat-
ing shaft of said machine for imparting a longitudinal movement to said lever
bar plate.
37. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted in said head and adapted to have a longitudinal and a vertical
movement during a portion of the operation of said machine.
38. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted therein; means for imparting a longitudinal movement to
said plate and means for imparting a vertical movement to said plate, said
longitudinal and vertical movements being imparted at approximately the same
time.
39. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a lever bar plate; a
side needle carrier mounted therein; and means for imparting a reciprocating
motion to said side needle carrier.
40. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a lever bar plate; a
side needle carrier mounted therein a cam face mounted on the operating shaft

page_text: of said machine; and connections between said side needle carrier and said cam
face for imparting a reciprocating movement to said side needle carrier.
41. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a lever bar plate a
side needle carrier mounted therein; a face cam mounted on the operating
shaft of said machine, said face cam being provided with an actuated groove; a
roller mounted to have movement in said groove and connections between said
roller and said side needle carrier whereby said side needle carrier will be reci-
procated in said lever bar plate.
42. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a lever bar plate; a.
side needle carrier mounted therein, said side needle carrier having an extension;
a link pivotally connected to said side needle carrier; a cam face mounted on the
operating shaft of said machine: and a roller mounted on said link and having
an operative connection with said face cam whereby said link and said side needle
carrier will have a reciprocating movement in said lever bar plate.
43. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted therein; means for imparting a longitudinal movement to
said lever bar plate; and means for regulating the longitudinal movement in
one direction.
44. In a shoc sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
slide plate mounted to have a longitudinal movement therein; and a lever bar
plate removably secured to said slide plate.
45. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate of a
slide plate mounted therein; means for imparting a longitudinal movement
to said slide plate; and a lever bar plate removably secured to said slide plate
and a lever bar plate having a pivotal connection with said slide plate.
46. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
slide plate mounted therein; a lever bar plate removably secured to said slide
plate means for imparting a longitudinal movement to said slide plate; and
means for regulating the movement of said.slide plate in one direction.
47. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
lever bar plate removably secured to said slide plate; a cam face mounted on the
operating shaft of said machine; adapted to impart a longitudinal movement to
said slide plate; means for regulating the movement of said slide plate in one
direction; and a bearing spring mounted in said slide plate; said bearing spring
forming one of the faces against which said cam rides.
48. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted to have a longitudinal movement therein; a series of corru-
gated feeding rollers pivotally connected to said lever bar plate; and means
connected to said plate for rotating said rollers step by step.
49. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted to have a longitudinal movement therein a ratchet wheel
mounted on said plate; a series of corrugated feed rollers pivotally connected to
said plate, one of said rollers being fixedly connected to said ratchet wheel, and
means for rotating said ratchet wheel.
50. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted therein; a ratchet wheel pivotally connected to said plate; a
series of corrugated feed rollers pivotally connected to said plate, one of said
rollers having a fixed connection with said ratchet wheel; a wire feed operating
lever pivotally connected to said lever bar plate, said operating lever being
actuated by a cam mounted on the operating shaft; and a spring actuated pin
mounted on one end of said lever, said pin being adapted to rotate said ratchet
wheel step by step.
51. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted to have a longitudinal movement therein; a feed bar pivotally
mounted on said lever bar plate; and means for imparting a longitudinal move-
ment to said feed bar.
52. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever

page_text: bar plate mounted to have a longitudinal movement therein; a feed bar pivotally
mounted on said bar plate; and means for imparting a longitudinal and a trans-
verse movement to said feed bar.
53. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate mounted to have a longitudinal movement therein; a feed bar pivotally
mounted on said lever bar plate; a cam face mounted on the operating shaft
adapted to impart a longitudinal movement to said feed bar in one direction;
means connected to said feed bar and to said lever bar plate for imparting a
longitudinal movement in the opposite direction; and means for imparting a
transverse movement to said feed bar.
54. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate; a feed bar plate pivotally mounted thereon; a cam mounted on the
operating shaft of said machine adapted to impart a longitudinal movement to
said feed bar in one direction; a spring actuated pin adapted to move said feed
bar in the opposite longitudinal direction; and means for imparting a trans-
verse movement to said feed bar.
55. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate; a feed bar pivotally mounted thereon adapted to have longitudinal
movement; and means for imparting a transverse movement to said feed bar
when said feed bar is at its limit of longitudinal movement.
56. In a shoc sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate; a feed bar pivotally mounted thereon adapted to have longitudinal
movement; and a feed bar operating lever pivotally mounted on said lever bar
plate and connected to said feed bar, adapted to impart a transverse movement
to said feed bar.
57. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with the head; of a lever
bar plate; a feed bar pivotally mounted thereon; a cam face adapted to impart
a longitudinal movement to said feed bar in one direction; a
spring actuated
pin adapted to impart a longitudinal movement to said feed bar in an opposite
direction; and a feed bar operating lever pivotally connected to said lever bar
plate and said feed bar, said feed bar operating lever being adapted to impart a
transverse movement to said feed bar when said feed bar has been placed in its
opposite longitudinal positions.
58. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate and a head
removably connected therewith, of a slide plate mounted in said cap plate and
adapted to have a longitudinal movement therein; a lever bar plate remov-
ably connected to said slide plate; and a feed bar pivotally mounted on said lever
bar plate and adapted to have a longitudinal and transverse movement on said
lever bar plate.
59. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
slide plate mounted therein to have a regulated longitudinal movement; a
lever bar plate removably connected to said slide plate; a feed bar pivotally
mounted on said lever bar plate; means for moving said feed bar longitudinally
on said lever bar plate; and a feed bar operating lever adapted to move said
feed bar transversely of said lever bar plate when said feed bar is at its limit of
longitudinal movements.
60. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
slide plate mounted therein to have a regulated longitudinal movement; a slide
block removably connected to said slide plate; and a lever bar plate pivotally
connected to said slide block.
61. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate of a
slide plate mounted therein to have a regulated longitudinal movement; a slide
block removably connected thereto; a lever bar plate pivotally connected to
said slide block; a side needle carrier mounted in said lever bar plate; and
means for reciprocating said side needle carrier longitudinally in said lever bar
plate.
62. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a

page_text: slide plate mounted therein to have a regulated longitudinal movement; a lever
bar plate removably secured to said slide plate; and means for varying the
vertical position of said lever bar plate and said slide plate when said slide plate
has been moved to the end of its longitudinal movement.
63. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
slide plate mounted therein to have a regulated longitudinal movement; a lever
bar plate removably connected thereto; and a shooter frame actuated by the
movement of the operating shaft of said machine adapted to vary the position of
said lever bar plate and slide plate when said slide plate has been moved to the
end of its longitudinal movements.
64. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
slide plate mounted therein to have a regulated longitudinal movement; a slide
block removably secured thereto; a lever bar plate pivotally connected to said
slide block; and means for raising and lowering said lever bar plate and said
slide plate; the front end of said lever bar plate being raised to a greater height
than its rear end.
65. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
lever bar plate mounted to have a regulated longitudinal movement therein; a
side needle carrier mounted to be reciprocated in said lever bar plate; and a
wire cutter adapted to place a wire burr in a position in the path of movement
of said side needle.
66. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
lever bar plate mounted to have a regulated longitudinal movement therein; a
side needle carrier slidably mounted in said lever bar plate; a cutter mounted in
said lever bar plate to have a transverse movement across the path of said
needle; and means for reciprocating said cutter.
67. In a shoc sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
lever bar plate mounted to have a regulated longitudinal movement therein; a
side needle carrier mounted in said lever bar plate and adapted to have a recipro-
cating motion therein; a cutter mounted in said lever bar plate and adapted to
move across the path of movement of said side needle; and means for feeding
the wire to said cutter at a predetermined point of its movement.
6S. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
lever bar plate mounted to have a regulated longitudinal movement therein; a
side needle carrier mounted in said lever bar plate and adapted to have a recipro-
cating motion therein; a cutter mounted in said lever bar plate and adapted to
move across the path of movement of said side needle; wire feeding mechanism
removably connected to said lever bar plate and adapted to feed the wire to
said cutter; and means connected to said lever bar plate for actuating said wire
feeding mechanism at a predetermined point in the movement of said cutter.
69. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
Jever bar plate mounted to have a regulated longitudinal movement therein, said
lever bar plate being normally held in its lower position: means for raising
said lever bar plate; and means for automatically regulating the position to
which said lever bar plate is raised.
70. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate: of a
lever bar plate mounted to have a longitudinal movement therein; said lever
bar plate being normally held in its lower position; means for raising said lever
bar plate; and an automatically regulated stop for limiting the movement of
said lever bar plate.
71. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
head removably connected thereto; of a lever bar plate mounted to have a
regulated longitudinal movement in said cap plate, said lever bar plate being
normally held in its lower position; a pressure bar mounted in said head and
adapted to have a regulated movement therein; means for raising said lever
bar plate from its normal position; and means connected to said pressure bar
for automatically limiting the upward movement of the lever bar plate.

page_text: 72. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
head removably connected thereto of a lever bar plate mounted to have a
regulated longitudinal movement in said cap plate, said lever bar plate being
normally held in its lower position; a pressure bar mounted in said head and
adapted to have a regulated movement therein; means for raising said lever
bar plate from its normal position; and a set screw mounted adjustably on said
pressure bar for limiting the upward movement of said lever bar plate.
73. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a cap plate; of a
lever bar plate mounted to have a longitudinal movement in said cap plate; said
lever bar plate being held normally in its lower position; means for raising
said lever bar plate; and means connected with said head and with the body of
said machine for returning said lever bar plate to its normal position.
74. A feed bar for shoe soles sewing machines comprising a feed bar plate
having its front end bifurcated; and a feed nose mounted in said bifurcated
end adapted to be adjustable longitudinally thereof.
75. A feed bar for shoe sole sewing machines comprising a feed bar plate
having its front end bifurcated; a feed nose slidably mounted in said bifurcated
end; and a set screw mounted in said feed nose and said bifurcated end, adapted
to adjust the position of said feed nose.
76. A feed bar for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a feed bar plate
having its front end bifurcated; a feed nose mounted in said bifurcated end; an
elongated slot formed in said feed nose adapted to receive a pin formed in said
bifurcated end; and a set screw connected with said feed nose and with said
bifurcated end and adapted to adjust the position of said feed nose.
77. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a lever having its
rear end bifurcated; a recess formed in each of said bifurcated ends; a cam
acting face pivotally mounted in said recesses; and adjusting screws mounted
to act against said cam acting faces, whereby the movement of said lever will be
regulated.
78. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a lever having a
bifurcated rear end; and a recess formed in one of said bifurcated ends; of a
cam acting face pivotally mounted in said recesses; an adjusting screw adapted
to bear against the rear face of said cam acting face; and a bearing spring con-
nected to said lever and extending rearward in juxtaposition to the opposite
bifurcated end of said lever.
79. A side needle carrier for shoe sole sewing machines, comprising a lower
portion and an upper portion adjustably mounted thereon, said lower and upper
portions being slidably mounted in a lever bar plate; set screws connected to
said upper and lower portions; a channel formed between said upper and lower
portions; and extending through said set screws; and nuts secured to said set
screws and adapted to force said upper and lower portions together.
80. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pressure
bar mounted in said head and adapted to have a vertical movement therein;
means for limiting the movement of said pressure bar; and means for recipro-
cating said pressure bar.
81. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pres-
sure bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein means for adjusting the
position of said pressure bar; means for reciprocating said pressure bar; and means
for regulating the amount of pressure placed on said pressure bar.
82. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pressure
bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein; means for reciprocating said
pressure bar and means for locking said pressure bar in position after being
reciprocated.
83. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head: of a pressure
bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein; means for adjusting the posi
tion of said pressure bar; means for reciprocating said pressure bar; and means

page_text: for automatically locking said pressure bar in fixed position after the same has
been reciprocated.
84. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pres-
sure bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein; and adjustment slide
adjustably mounted in said pressure bar; means for reciprocating said pressure
bar and said adjustment slide; and means for locking said pressure bar and said
adjustment slide in fixed position after having been reciprocated.
85. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pres-
sure bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein; an adjustment slide
adjustably mounted in said pressure bar; a rocking lever pivotally connected to
said head and adapted to reciprocate said adjustment slide and said pressure
bar; and means for locking said rocking lever in fixed position in said adjust-
ment slide.
86. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pres-
sure bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein; an adjustment slide
mounted in said pressure bar, said adjustment slide being provided with an
opening; a rocking lever pivotally connected to said head and having its forward
end movable in said slotted opening; and means for locking the movement of
said rocking lever.
87. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pres-
sure bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein; an adjustment slide
mounted in said pressure bar; an adjusting screw connected to said adjustment
slide and to said pressure bar for adjusting the position of said slide in said
pressure bar; a rocking lever pivotally connected to said head and adapted to
reciprocate said pressure bar and said adjustment slide; and means for locking
said adjustment slide to prevent vertical movement therein.
88. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pres-
sure bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein; a rocking lever having
a fixed movement on said head adapted to reciprocate said pressure bar; and
means, connected to said rocking lever, for automatically regulating the pressure
applied to said pressure bar by said rocking lever.
89. In a shoe sole sewing machine, the combination with a head; of a pres-
sure bar mounted to have a vertical movement therein; a rocking lever having
a fixed movement on said head adapted to reciprocate said pressure bar; and
a frictional pressure regulating mechanism mounted in said rocking lever,
whereby the pressure of said pressure bar will be automatically regulated.
Dated this 92nd day of Navamhan 1000
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicants.