Improvements in the Art or Method of Setting Out and Shaping the Materials for. the Manufacture of Trousers and the like.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Apr., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 14th Ja, 1895-Accepted, 13th Apr., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Art or Method of Setting Out and Shaping the
Materials for. the Manufacture of Trousers and the like.
We, WILLIAM WALLACE CRISP, of 27 Theobald's Road, Bloomsbury,
Merchant Tailor, and CRISP'S PATENT TAILORING COMPANY, LIMITED, also
of 27 Theobalds Road, Bloomsbury, London do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows :-
This invention relates to improvements in the art or method of planning or
"laying" the working lines of trousers, breeches, and other similar garments, the
objects being to secure a perfect and easy fit, accurate "balance," also to avoid
dragging or binding at the knees when the wearer assumes a sitting or kneeling
posture, and chafing at the "fork" when walking. A great economy of material
is also effected by the use of these improvements.
In order to illustrate our invention we will describe the method we employ in
setting-out a pair of trousers for example. We first draw a line, representing the
side seam line, across which we draw the waist line, and below this, at the distance
necessary to give the required "rise" according to the measure of the person to be
fitted, we draw the fork line. Below this again, at the required distance of the
length of the leg, we draw the bottom line, and at an equal distance between these
two last lines we draw the knee line. We now set out along the fork line, and say
to the right of the side seam line, a distance equal to one-fourth of the waist
measure plus one inch, and from the point thus obtained a line (which we call the
fly line) is carried upward, parallel to the side seam line, cutting the waist line at a
point distant from the side seam line equal to one-quarter the waist measure plus
one inch. From the point just obtained on the fork line and to the right thereof
we set out one-sixth of the seat measure, and from this point and on the same line
we set out a further sixth less one-half inch which will represent the extremity of
the fork. We now set out from the side seam line along the knee line to the right
a distance equal to one-half the knee measure plus two inches, and to the left one-
half the knee measure less two inches. From the side seam line along the bottom
line to the right we now set out a distance of one-half the bottom measure plus
one inch and a half, and to the left one half the bottom measure less one inch and
a half. A distance of one quarter of the seat measure plus one inch is now set out
aloug the fork line to the left of the side seam line. We now measure upwards
from the fork line and on the fly line a distance of four inches, more or less, and
we start a curve from that point to the extremity of the fork which extreme point
should be carried a quarter of an inch above the fork line., This curve we call the
fork curve.
By suitably connecting the points obtained by the above described method the
outline of the trousers is determined.
In order to ensure the proper "balance" of the trousers, we measure along the
knee line to the right of the side seam line a distance of four inches and a balf,
more or less, to the knee, point, and along the fork line also to the right of the side
seam line a distance of one-fourth of the waist measure plus one inch, plus one-
twelfth of the seat measure, and we draw a balance line through these two points.
The fork curve just referred to should pass through the point of intersection of the
fork line and balance line. From the knee point we now draw another line

page_text: upward to the left in such a position as to form with the knee line the same angle
as that made by the first mentioned balance line, and from the point where the
second balance line cuts the waist line we set off to the right a distance equal to
one-quarter of the waist measure plus one inch to the V. A consideration of the
relation of the positions of these two lines with the other points enable the trousers
to be balanced so that all strain or drag is avoided whatever position the wearer
may be in.
It will be understood that the exact positions of the various lines above referred
to depend upon the measurements of the trousers to be made. The front and back
of the leg of the trousers may, in some cases, be in one piece whereby the outer leg 1
seams are avoided. The inside leg seams, instead of being central inside the
trouser leg, are formed towards the back of the trousers whereby great ease in
wear is secured and bagging at the knees is effectually prevented.
By the employment of the above described method of setting-out and shaping, a
very economical "lay" may be made, as the shapes of the various parts lend them-
selves to being so arranged on the "lay" that the various fittings can be cut out of
the spaces between the principal parts from material which would ordinarily be
wasted.
Improvements in the Art or Method of Setting Out and Shaping the
Materials for the Manufacture of Trousers and the like.
We WILLIAM WALLACE CRISP of 27. Theobald's Road, Bloomsbury,
Merchant Tailor, and CRISP'S PATENT TAILORING COMPANY LIMITED also
of 27 Theobald's Road Bloomsbury, London, do hereby declare the nature of
the said invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement, that is to
say :-
This invention relates to improvements in the art or method of planning or
"laying" the working lines of trousers, breeches, and other similar garments, the
objects being to secure a perfect and easy fit and accurate "balance" also to avoid
dragging or binding at the knees when the wearer assumes a sitting or kneeling
posture, and chafing at the "fork" when walking. Great economy of material is
also effected by the use of these improvements.
In order to illustrate the invention we will describe in connection with the
accompanying three sheets of drawings the method we employ in setting out a pair
of trousers for example..
Referring to Fig. 1 and supposing the measurements to be by way
of example,
waist measure 30 inches, seat measure 36 inches, length 42 inches, knee measure
20 inches, and bottom measure 18 inches, we first draw the side seam line A, across
which we draw the waist line B, and below this at the distance necessary
to give the required "rise" according to the measure of the person to be fitted
(say in this case 11 inches,) we draw the fork line C. Below this again at the
required distance of the length of the leg 42 inches less 11 inches = 31 inches,
we draw the bottom line D. We now take a measure equal to one half the
distance between the fork line C and the bottom line D plus say two inches
= 17 inches and we set this, out above the bottom line and thus obtain the

page_text: -
knee line E. We now set out along the fork line C, and to the right of the
side seam line A a distance equal to one fourth of the waist measure plus 1 inch
8 inches to the point a, and from this point the fly line F is carried upward
parallel to the side seam line A cutting the waist line B'at b. From the point a
on the fork line C and to the right thereof we set out one sixth of the seat
measure less inch 5 inches to which will represent the extremity of
the fork.
==
We now set out from the side seam line A along the knee line E to the
point ca distance equal to one half the knee measure plus 2 inches = 12 inches
and to the point d one half the knee measure less 2 inches = 8 inches. From the
side seam line A along the bottom line D to the point e we set out a distance of
one half the bottom measure plus 1 inches 10 inches, and to the point fone
half the bottom measure less 14 inches
7 inches.
A distance of one quarter of
the seat measure plus one inch = 10 inches is now set out on the fork line C to the
point g.
-
=
We now measure upwards from the fork line C and on the fly line F a distance
of 4 inches more or less to the point i and from that point we start a curve G to
the extremity of the fork which extreme point should be carried inch above
the fork line C as shewn. This curve G we call the fork curve.
By suitably connecting the points obtained by the above described method the
main outline of the trousers is determined.
In order to ensure the proper "balance" of the trousers, we measure along the
knee line E to the right of the side seam line A a distance of 3 inches more
or less to the knee point j, and along the fork line C also to the right of the
side seam line A a distance of one fourth of the waist measure plus one inch
plus one twelfth of the seat measure 11 inches to the point k, and we draw
a balance line through the two points ; and k. The fork curve G should pass
through the point where the balance line H intersects the fork line C.
=
From the knee point j we now draw another balance line J upward to the left
in such a position as to form with the knee line E the same angle as that made by
the line H, and from the point where the line J cuts the waist line B we set off
to the right on such waist line a distance equal to one quarter of the waist measure
plus one inch 8 inches to the point m which determines the top of the vee us
shewn.
=
It will be understood that the exact positions of the various lines above referred
to depend on the measurements of the trousers to be made. The front and back of
the leg of the trousers may in some cases be in one piece as shown in Figure 1
whereby the outer leg seams are avoided, or the front and back of the leg may be
connected together by a side seam in which case proper allowances should of course
be made in the "planning" for such side seat. The inside leg seams, instead
of being central inside the trouser leg, are formed towards the back of the trousers
whereby great ease in wear is secured and bagging at the knees is effectually
prevented.
By the employment of the above described method of setting out and shaping,
great economy in the use of material is effected, as the shapes of the various parts
lend themselves to being so arranged on the "lay" that the various fittings such as
flies, pocket facings, back pieces, straps and the like can be cut with the minimum
of waste. This will be seen from Figures 2, 3, and 4 in which Figure 2 represents
a "lay" for five pairs of trousers to be cut from cloth of double width and
Figures 3 and 4 represent "lays" for six pairs of trousers to be cut from cloth of
single width, Figure 3 being for the fronts and Figure 4 for the backs of the
trousers.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
The im
c
C

page_text: for the manufacture of trousers and other like garments, substantially as described
with reference to the accompanying drawings and for the purposes specified.
Dated this 12th day of January 1895.
CRISP'S PATENT TAILORING COMPANY, LIMITED,
Per W. H. Beck,
115, Cannon Street, London, E.C., Agent.