Improvements in Woven Articles, such as Hats, Boot Uppers, Clothing, and the like.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Mar., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 28th Dec., 1894-Accepted, 28th Mar., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Woven Articles, such as Hats, Boot Uppers,
Clothing, and the like.
I MARIE KIRCHNER, of III Haupstrasse 72, Wien, in the Empire of Austria,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention for improvements in woven articles such as hats, boot uppers,
clothing and the like relates to woven articles made from separate parts of woven
material cut out and connected together to form articles of the desired shape and
consists essentially in weaving the said separate parts in exactly the desired shape
and with strengthened edges produced by weaving in the edges of the said part,
bands, tubes or other strengthening pieces. These strengthening pieces are led
through the sley similarly to the warp, the ends being inserted in the weft and
connected to each other so that with the continuation of the weaving, the
strengthening pieces are securely woven to the outline of the part. In order to
form an opening in the body of a separate part, the sley is made in two parts
sliding on a frame and adapted to be drawn together or separated by suitable
means to separate the warp threads or bring them together, the strengthening
piece being inserted at the desired part.
Dated this 28th day of March 1894.
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.
געגגג
Improvements in Woven Articles, such as Hats, Boot Uppers,
Clothing, and the like.
I MARIE KIRCHNER, of III Haupstrasse 72 Wien, in the Empire of Austria,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention for improvements in woven articles such as hats, boot uppers,
clothing and the like relates to woven articles made from separate parts of woven
material cut out and connected together to form articles of the desired shape and
consists essentially in weaving the said separate parts in exactly the desired shape
and with strengthened edges produced by weaving in the edges of the said part
bands tubes or other strengthening pieces. These strengthening pieces are led
through the recd similarly to the warp, the ends being inserted as weft and
connected to each other so that with the continuation of the weaving the
strengthening pieces are securely woven to the outline of the part. In order to
form an opening in the body of a part, the reed is made in two parts sliding on a
frame and adapted to be drawn together or separated by suitable means to separate
the warp threads or bring them together, the strengthening piece being inserted
at the desired part.

page_text: The accompanying sheet of drawings illustrates the manner of carrying out
this invention.
In order to weave the boot upper shown in Fig. 4 a border or band A is drawn
in at the required distance from the warp threads II II forming the piece and by
the continuation of the process of weaving is secured to the outline to form a
strengthened edge. This band or border A is in two parts wound on two band
reels and led through the reed at its right and left ends outside the warp threads.
The end of one part is inserted as a weft and connected to the end of the other
band. Both parts of the band then work like the warp and are actuated similarly.
The Jacquard cards are so made that first the warp threads between II II are
raised and lowered until the part of the band or border A corresponding to this
distance is woven. The following cards are so punctured as to correspond with
the curve of the front part, that from II II that both from left and right of the
centre of the boot upper one or more threads are gradually added to the part
including the width II II and weave and hem the outer band together with the
welt. By this successive increase in the width of the warp, the border or band
together with the weft is woven at the edges of the upper. This process remains
the same until the entire warp forming the shape is working. At the moment
when the front part is woven up to the line II a band B to form the inner edge of
the upper is let in and woven and finished as above.
In order to provide for the open part C in the centre of boot uppers the reed
shown in Figs. 1 2 and 3 is employed. This reed L is separated in the centre
and slides in the runner L'. Until the boot upper is woven to the line II of Fig. 4
the reed operates like the usual reed. When the inner band B at bis drawn in
the two parts of the reed separate to form the open space C and separate the two
parts of the boot upper from each other. This separation of the parts of the reed
is effected either by a wedge & introduced by hand as in Fig. 1 or by a spring,
weight, screw or in similar manner. From this point a separate shuttle is used for
each side of the upper and by the separation of the warp corresponding to the
shape of the upper, the border B can be woven in at the same time as the outer
border A. When the upper is woven up to the point III III the borders A and B
are cut, and after being inserted in the warp as a weft the cut ends of A are sewn
together and woven as above described into the following upper. The ends of the
band B are also as soon as the front part of the next upper is ready introduced as
above and sewn together.
With an upper so produced the free ends of the warp threads K are sewn by
hand to the border A and the weft threads left by the opening in the reed to form
the space Cat are sewn over the inner border B. By the woven borders A and B
in the upper and the closing together of the warp threads along these borders
by the separation of the warp the strength of the upper is considerably
increased.
If it is desired to work without leaving the free space then one shuttle is used
to weave both sides of the upper; or mechanical shuttles, the so called embroidery
apparatus, may be used instead of hand shuttles.
The process remains the same if instead of hoot uppers parts of any other
article of clothing are woven with the edges strengthened by means of bands
borders and the 1.ke. The weaving process itself remains unchanged, that is, the
uppers or parts may be plain or twilled, varied and similarly or oppositely shaped
designed, embroidered or figured. In order to allow of a quicker production the
warp corresponding to the parts (like C) is not separated and not drawn from the
weft at the inner edges B but remains without forming part of any article and is
cut after completion of the weaving and sewn or bound by hand to the corresponding
border.
It is a necessary condition in all cases that the strengthener for the border is so
let in that in weaving the weft threads wind round the border so that the latter is
held in place.
If the width of the loom is such that several parts must be woven next each

page_text: other in order to use the full width of the warp then the sley is to be divided as
many times as there are parts or pieces to weave.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :
1. Woven articles woven and strengthened to the required shape distinguished
by the woven parts being produced to shapes as required for articles of clothing
strengthened at the edge of the shape by strengthening borders, piping, bands and
the like substantially as described.
2. The process for the production of the woven articles consisting in bands
borders piping and the like being led through the reed and employed like the
warp the ends of the same being inserted as a weft in the warp and connected to
each other so that with the continuation of the weaving these strengtheners are
by means of the warp and weft woven to the outline and properly retained,
substantially as described.
3. In looms for carrying out the process described under 2 the arrangement of
the reed in two or more parts in order to separate the warp threads or bring them
together again as required, as also the arrangement of the reed movably along a
slide and the method described of separating and bringing together the parts of
the reed substantially as described.
Dated this 28th day of December 1894
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.

page_text: B
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