IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH AND SIMILAR FABRICS
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Handsley Dales and John Frederick
Maygrove, both of Wood Street, in the City of London, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING
HAIR CLOTH AND SIMILAR FABRICS."
Sealed the 22nd May 1869, and dated the 27th November 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Handsley Dales
and John Frederick Maygrove at the Office of the Commissioners
of l'atents, with their Petition, on the 27th November 1868.
We, JOHN HANDSLEY DALES and JOHN FREDERICK MAYGROVE, both
of Wood Street, in the City of London, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND IN LOOMS FOR
WEAVING HAIR.CLOTH AND SIMILAR FABRICS," to be as follows:-
Our Invention relates to an improved mode of manufacturing hair
cloth and other similar fabrics, and also to improvements. in looms used
therefor. The shuttle is fed or supplied with the hairs for forming the
weft alternately at either side of the warp, by which means the texture
of the. cloth produced is rendered much more uniform than hitherto and
is otherwise improved; the hairs are much less liable to break in
weaving, and the manufacture is also greatly accelerated. :

page_text: In carrying out our Invention we place a bunch of hair combed and
suitably prepared in a receptacle attached to the framework on either side
of the loom. The hairs in each bundle are placed with their thick or
root ends uppermost, and are confined by an india-rubber or other elastic
band or collar, so that as each hair is extracted from the bundle the
collar will collapse and keep the bundle intact. As the hair is taken
alternately from each bundle and passes through the warp from either
side to form the weft the ends of the hairs will be placed alternately
thick and thin, producing a much greater uniformity of texture in the
material than hitherto.
The apparatus by which this is effected is as follows:-A picker shaped
somewhat like a needle and provided with a transverse groove across the
point large enough to contain one hair is mounted on the end of a rod
capable of to-and-fro motion in its bearings and placed near each bundle
of hair. Before the shuttle arrives at one side of the loom the picker on
that side is thrust through the bundle of hairs and through an aperture
in the elastic band or collar before mentioned, the groove in the end of
the picker catching one hair of the bunch which is carried with it
through the aperture in the collar. The end of this lever is left
protruding when the picker is withdrawn by a spring or otherwise in
remintos i ve seized by the snutte when it arrives at that sue, by which
means the hair is carried through the warp. Each picker is operated
either by a wheel or disc rotated by suitable gearing, a projection on
which wheel is brought, at each revolution, in contact with a pin fixed to
the rod in which the picker is mounted, or both pickers may be operated
alternately by the to-and-fro motion of the reed.
The shuttle we construct in the following manner for seizing the
hair Near each end is mounted a spring clip, the jaws of which project
beyond the ends of the shuttle and form fingers serving to seize the hair;
protruded by the picker. A rod passes through the shuttle, the ends of
which rod are enlarged and project beyond the ends of the shuttle in
the form of truncated cones; the rod is further capable of limited to-
and-fro motion. A slot is made midway in this central rod, in which
works the end of a lever pivoted to the shuttle, the other end of this
lever being received in a similar slot in a rod mounted in bearings
between the clips before mentioned. The ends of this rod are wedge-
shaped and are placed between the tail ends of the clips, so that
on the central rod being traversed in one direction the wedge rod will

page_text: be moved by the lever in the contrary direction, and thus close the
fingers of the clip in the direction of which it moves. When the shuttle
arrives at one end of its course the projecting cone at that end of the
central rod comes in contact with the hammer by which the shuttle is
operated, the impact of the shuttle causing the central rod to act on the
wedge rod for closing the fingers of the clip at that end on the hair
which has been previously protruded by the picker in the manner before
described, at the same time that the hair which has been drawn through
the warp by the other clip is released therefrom. The shuttle is then
returned through the shed by a blow. from the hammer operated in'
the ordinary manner, said 'hammer striking the conical end of the central
rod so as to jam it tightly in its seat in the shuttle, and thus keep the
fingers firmly closed on the hair until the latter is released at the other
side of the warp where another hair is taken and the shuttle operated as
before.
Instead of operating the shuttle and picker in the manner herein-
before described, we may dispense with the latter and provide each end
of the shuttle with a projecting hook. These hooks are inserted
alternately in the bundles of hair, each hook withdrawing a single hair
therefrom at a time. This hair is secured on the hook by a part sliding
on the latter and operated by a spiral or other spring. To each of these
sliding parts is attached a rod connected to the opposite end of a trans-
verse lever pivoted midway in the shuttle, so that when one of these
parts is pushed back by the impact of the shuttle for the insertion of its
hook into the bundle of hair the other hook will be also uncovered and
release the hair it has brought through the warp. The shuttle may be
otherwise arranged if desired for the purpose of receiving the hair alter-
nately at opposite sides of the warp, as before described.
30
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Handsley Dales and John Frederick
Maygrove in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 27th May 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHN
HANDSLEY DALES and JOHN FREDERICK MAYGROVE, both of Wood
Street, in the City of London, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of November, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the
thirty-second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto us, the said John Handsley Dales and John
Frederick Maygrove, Her special licence, that we, the said John Handsley
Dales and John Frederick Maygrove, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as we, the said John Handsley Dales and John
Frederick Maygrove, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
'any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter, during the term therein expressed, 'should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH
AND SIMILAR FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the
said John Handsley Dales and John Frederick Maygrove, our executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to
be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said John Handsley Dales and Jolin
Frederick Maygrove, do hereby declare the nature of our said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement, reference
being had to.the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters
and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
Our Invention relates to an improved mode of manufacturing hair
cloth and other similar fabrics, and also to improvements in looms used
therefor. The shuttle is fed or supplied with the hairs forming the weft
alternately at either side of the warp, by which means the texture of the
cloth produced is rendered much more uniform than hitherto and is
otherwise improved; the hairs are much less liable to break in weaving,
and the manufacture is also greatly accelerated.
In carrying out our Invention we place a bundle of hair combed and
suitably prepared in a-receptacle attached to the framework on either
side of the loom. The hairs in each bundle are placed with their thick

page_text: .or root ends uppermost, and are confined by an india-rubber or other
elastic band or collar, so that as each hair is extracted from the bundle
the collar will collapse and keep the bundle intact. As the hair is taken
alternately from each bundle and passes through the warp from either
side to form the weft the ends of the hairs will be placed alternately
thick and thin, producing a much greater uniformity of texture in the
material than hitherto.
The apparatus by which this is effected is as follows:-A picker
shaped somewhat like a needle and provided with a transverse groove
across the point large enough to contain one hair is mounted in the end
of a, rod capable of to-and-fro motion in its bearings and placed near
each bundle of hair. Before the shuttle arrives at one side of the loom
the picker on that side is thrust through the bundle of hairs and through
an aperture in the elastic band or collar before mentioned, the groove in
the end of the picker catching one hair of the bunch which is carried
with it through the aperture in the collar. The end of this hair is left
protruding when the picker is withdrawn (by a spring or otherwise) in
readiness to be seized by the shuttle when it arrives at that side, by
which means the hair is carried through the warp. Each picker is
operated either by a wheel rotated by suitable gearing, a projection on
which wheel is brought at each revolution in contact with the rod
on which the picker is mounted, or both pickers may be operated
alternately by the to-and-fro motion of the reed.
The shuttle, we construct in the following manner for seizing the
hair Near each end is mounted a spring clip, the jaws of which
project at the ends of the shuttle and form fingers serving to seize the
hair protruded by the picker. A rod passes through the shuttle, the
ends of which are enlarged and project at the ends of the shuttle in the
form of truncated cones; the rod is further capable of limited to-and-fro
motion. A slot is made midway in this central rod, in which works the
end of a lever pivoted to the shuttle, the other end of this lever being
received in a similar slot in a rod mounted in bearings between the clips
before mentioned. The ends of this rod are wedge-shaped and are placed
between the tail ends of the clips, so that on the central rod being
traversed in one direction the wedge rod will be moved by the lever in
the contrary direction, and thus close the fingers of the clip in the
direction in which it moves. When the shuttle arrives at one end of its
course the projecting cone at that end of the central rod' comes in

page_text: contact with the hammer by which the shuttle is operated, the impact
of the shuttle causing the central rod to act on the wedge rod for closing
the fingers of the clip at that end on the hair which has been previously
protruded by the picker in the manner before described, at the same
time that the hair which has been drawn through the warp by the other
clip is released therefrom. The shuttle is then returned through the
shed by a blow from the laminer operated in the ordinary manner, said
hammer striking the conical end of the central rod so as to jam it
tightly in its seat in the shuttle, and thus keep the fingers firmly closed
on the hair until the latter is released at the other side of the warp
where another hair is taken and the shuttle operated as before.
Instead of operating the shuttle and picker in the manner herein-
before described, we may dispense with the latter and provide each end
of the shuttle with a projecting hook. These hooks are inserted alternately
in the bundles of hair, each hook withdrawing a single hair therefrom at
a time.
This hair is secured on the hook by a part sliding on the latter
and operated by a spiral or other spring. To each of these sliding parts
is attached a rod connected to the opposite end of a transverse lever
pivoted midway in the shuttle, so that when one of these parts is pushed
back by the impact of the shuttle for the insertion of its hook into the
bundle of hair, the other hook will be also uncovered and release the
hair it has brought through the warp. The shuttle may be otherwise
arranged, if desired, for the purpose of receiving the hair alternately at
opposite sides of the warp, as before described..
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Our improvements in looms for weaving hair cloth and other similar
fabrics are illustrated in the accompanying Drawings in which Figure 1
shows in elevation, and Figure 2 in plan, the disposition of the hair
at one side of the loom, and the means by which the same is supplied
to the shuttle, both sides of the loom being of course similarly provided.
The same letters of reference indicate like parts in all the Figures.
A is the receptacle for containing the bundle of hair attached to the
framework B of the batten, as seen. The hairs in each bundle are
confined by an elastic band or collar a which will contract and so
keep the bundle intact as it decreases; 6 is a needle-shaped picker
having a transverse groove across the point large enough to contain
one hair, as shown in Figure 3, which is an enlarged view of picker b.

page_text: This picker is mounted on the end of a rod C capable of to-and-fro
motion in its bearings and placed near the bundle of hair, as scen.
Before the shuttle D arrives at one side of the loom the picker b at
that side is thrust through the bundle of hair contained in the
receptacle A and through an aperture in the elastic band or collar a,
as shown in red lines in Figure 1. The groove in the end of the
picker catches one hair d of the bunch in passing through the same
which is carried with it through the aperture in the collar a, this hair d
is left protruding as seen when the picker b is withdrawn in readiness
to be seized by the shuttle when it arrives at that side. . The picker b
is thrust forward at the required time by means of the wheel E having
angular projections or teeth e on its periphery which successively take
into a slot e in rod C when the wheel is rotated, the picker rod C
being brought back each time a tooth e disengages from slot e' by a
spiral spring (not shown in the Drawing on the end of the picker
rod C. Intermittent rotary motion is imparted to wheel E by means
of the connecting rod F which communicates with the driving shaft
of the loom in any suitable manner and rotates wheel E one tooth
at a time through the medium of lever f and ratchet wheel and pawl g.
We do not however confine ourselves to the exact arrangement of
picking apparatus shown, Figure 4 is a longitudinal section, and Figure 5
a plan of the shuttle D which we construct in the following manner
for seizing the hair d. Near each end is mounted a spring clip the
jaws h, h', of which form fingers to seize the hair d; G is a rod passing
through the shuttle, the ends G, G, of which are enlarged and project
at the ends of the shuttle in the form of truncated cones. The rod G
is capable of to-and-fro motion the extent of which is limited by the
recess at the end of the shuttle receiving the ends G₁,, G. A slot is
made midway in rod G in which works the end of a lever i pivoted
to the shuttle, the other end of lever i being received in a slot in a
rod j mounted in bearings between the clips h, h', as seen. The ends
of the rod are wedge-shaped and are placed between the tail ends of
the clips, so that on rod G being traversed in one direction the wedge j
will be moved by lever in the opposite direction, and thus close the
fingers of the clip towards which it moves. D' are cheek plates fixed
to the sides of the shuttle to keep the projecting clips clear of the
warp in passing through the shed. When the shuttle D arrives in
the shuttle box at one end of its course as seen in Figure 1, the pro-

page_text: jecting cone G at that end of rod G comes in contact with the head H'
of hammer stick H by which the shuttle is thrown as usual, the
impact of the shuttle causing rod G. to act on wedge rod j for closing
the fingers on the hair d which has been previously protruded by
picker b, as before described. The hair which has been drawn through
the warp by lingers his at same time released therefrom by spring k
which opens the fingers, as shown. The shuttle is then returned through
the shed by a blow from hammer H operated in the ordinary manner,
the hammer head H¹ striking the conical end of the cone G³, so as
to jam it tightly in its seat in the end of shuttle and thus keep the
fingers 'h' firmly closed on the hair until the latter is released at the
other side of the warp where another hair is seized by fingers h and
the shuttle operated as before.
Figure 6 shows a plan with cover removed of a modified arrange-
ment of shuttle in which lever i is dispensed with. h, h¹, are the clips
as before, and G the central rod. Upon this rod G is formed the wedge-
shaped part j for opening the clips, which are closed by springs for
seizing the hair, the shuttle being operated by the hammer head, as
before described.
Figure 7 shows an elevation of a shuttle, and Figure 8 a plan of
same, by means of which we are enabled to dispense with the picker b
and gearing for operating the same. This we effect by providing each
end of the shuttle with a projecting hook 2, shown on an enlarged scale
in Figure 9. These hooks are inserted alternately in the bundles of
hair at either side of the loom, each hook withdrawing a hair therefrom
at a time. The hair is secured on the hook by a part m sliding on
the hook and by a spiral spring. To each of these parts m is attached
a rod n connected to the opposite ends of a transverse lever o pivoted
midway in the shuttle, so that when one slide m is pushed back by
the impact of the shuttle for the insertion of its hook into the bundle
of hair, the other hook will be also uncovered (as seen in red in
Figure 8) and release the hair as it is brought through the warp. When
the shuttle is again returned through the shed the sliding piece m
will again cover the hook securing the hair thereon, as seen in Figure 9.
Having described the nature of our Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, we declare that what we claim as our Invention
to be protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First. Weaving hair cloth and similar fabrics by means of a shuttle

page_text: fed or supplied alternately from either side of the warp in the manner
herein-before shown and for the purpose described.
Secondly. We claim the arrangements of shuttles on this principle
illustrated in Figures 4, 5, and 6 of the annexed Drawings, or any mere
modifications of the same, together with the picker apparatus shown,
or any similar arrangement for supplying the shuttle with hair from
the bundles, substantially as described.
Thirdly. We claim the arrangement of shuttle illustrated in Figures 7,
8, and 9, of the Drawings, operating substantially in the manner
described, and by which the use of a picker is dispensed with.
In witness whereof, 1, the said John Frederick Maygrove, for
myself and on behalf of the said John Handsley Dales, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of May, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine.
J. F. MAYGROVE. (L.S.)
1
Witness,
A. M. CLARK,
Patent Agent,
53, Chancery Lane,.
London.