An Improvement in Skirt Waist Bands
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Jan., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 27th July, 1893--Accepted, 2nd Sept., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improvement in Skirt Waist Bands
I, JOSEPH HEILBRUN of 52, Aldermanbury, in the City of London, Manufac-
turers' Agent and Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
-
My invention relates to improvements in skirt waistbands and has for its object
to obvinte the defect of liability to stretch in wear and slip down over the hips of
the wearer, incidental to such skirt waist bands as now made, to provide an easy
and secure means of fastening admitting of the effective length of the skirt waist
band being varied to suit requirements and whereby the ends of the band and the
sides of the aperture in the skirt are caused to overlap, so that unsightly gaping of
the latter is avoided.
My invention is particularly applicable to skirt waist bands made of a doubled
fabric, or woven in the form of a duplex fabric whereof the two thicknesses are
united in the weaving or otherwise so as to form a tubular sheath along the upper
edge whilst the lower edges of the double fabric are separable to admit of the skirt
being stitched between them.
My invention consists in the introduction, in the sheath, of a strip of untempered
steel' which is sufficiently soft to admit of being doubled or folded without injury
and which is so tenacious and inelastic as not to stretch, this strip being secured in
the waist band in such manner that the whole of the tension, to which the waist
band would otherwise be subjected in wear, will come upon the metal strip. For
this purpose the fastenings by which the ends of the skirt waist band are united are
formed of studs and eyelets firmly rivetted through both the metal strip and the
covering portions of the waist band, the studs having preferably rearwardly-directed
hook-like heals, whilst the eyelets are of slightly elongated or oval form so that
the tension which comes upon them will tend to preserve the connection of the one
with the other. The strain, or the major part of it, is supported by a stud thus
fixed to the metal strip at the inner end of the waist band aud a corresponding
eyelet similarly fixed to the metal strip at a distance from the outer end of the
waist band; equal to the intended amount of overlap, a second similar fastening
being provided at a distance from the first corresponding to the amount of overlap.
The metal strip does not extend quite to the outer or overlapping end of the waist
band, so that this end is not stiffened by the strip but left flexible, in order tlint the
eyelet fixed in the waist band only at this extremity, may be more easily engaged
upon the stud fixed at a corresponding distance from the inner end of the waist
band, the purpose of this second fastening being merely to preserve the overlapping
of the waist band. To admit of tightening or slackening the waist band; each of
these eyelets' may be duplicated at corresponding distances from the first pair.
Dated this 27th day of January 1893.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improvement in Skirt Waist Bands.
I, JOSEPH HEILBRUN of 52, Aldermanbury, in the City of London, Manufac-
turers' Agent and Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to improvements in skirt waistbands and has for its object
to avoid liability to stretch under continued strain and slip down over the hips of
the wearer, which is a defect incidental to auch skirt waist bands as now made, and
to provide an easy and secure meaus of fastening which admits of the effective
length of the skirt waist band being varied as required and whereby the sides of the
aperture in the skirt are caused to overlap, so that unsightly gaping is avoided.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this
Specification, wherein
Figure 1 is a perspective view of the skirt waistband complete with the ends
fastened as in use.
Figure 2 is a longitudinal section, and Figure 3 a face view of the studded end
of the band, and Figure 4 is a face view of the eyeletted end of the band, these
three figures being drawn twice full size.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all the figures.
My invention is particularly applicable to skirt waistbands made of a doubled
fabric or woven in the form of a duplex fabric, the two thicknesses A A being
united by a seam or in the weaving along the line a, so as to form a tubular sheath
along the upper edge of the band whilst the lower edges of the double fabric are
bound together at the enda but separable throughout their length to adinit of the
skirt being stitched between them, this being a well known way of making such
bands.
My invention consists in the introduction in the sheath so formed of a strip of
untenipered steel B of about the breadth and thickness of ordinary crinoliue steel
but which is sufficiently soft to admit of being sharply bent or folded in packing or
otherwise, without fracture, and which is so tenacious and inelastic as not to
stretch, this strip being so combined with the fastenings that the whole of the
tension, to which the waist band would otherwise be subjected in wear, will come
upon the metal strip. To preservo, the steel strip B from being rusted by the
moisture of the body, it is preferably wrapped in a covering of waterproof paper b
before being inserted in the sheath. The fastenings of the waist band are formed
of studs C C and eyelets D D. These studs and eyelets are firmly rivetted
in holes punched through both the metal strip A and the covering portions of
waistband, the studs C C having preferably hook-like leads e rearwardly directed
from their shanks c', which are shouldered as at cand rivetted over washers cat
back, so as to be firmly secured to the band without liability of tearing out, or of
canting under strain. The eyelets D D' are of slightly elongated or oval form, as
shewn, so as to engage with the book-like heads e of the studs when the latter are
inserted. The eyelets are clenched or rivetted on opposite sides of the band, in
the ordinary way of fixing such eyelets. The stud C is fixed near the underlapping
end of the waist band and the corresponding eyelet D is fixed at a distance from
the other end of the band equal to the extent to which it is desired that the ends
of the band and the sides of the skirt opening should overlap, a second similar
stud C' being provided at a distance from the first to which the eyelet D' near the
end of the band corresponds. To admit of tightening or slackeuing the band, each
of these eyelets is duplicated as at D* D. To prevent the ends of the metal
strip chafing through the covoring, the latter may be capped with metal caps in the
ordinary way of capping corset dress steels. The metal strip A is shown as
extending from end to end of the band, which is preferred, but it might stop short

page_text: "
of the eyelets D' D' so that the part in which those eyelets are fixed will not be
stiffened and the major part of the strain will come on the stud C, the fastenings C' D'
serving mainly to preserve the overlapping of the ends of the band. It will be
evident that one of the studs and the corresponding eyelets, C' and D' D'* for
instance, might be dispensed with and replaced by au ordinary hook and eye
without departing from the invention, but with less advantage. Other forms of
fastenings might be substituted for those shewn, with a like result provided that
they are so combined with the metal strip as to throw the whole of the strain
thereon.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :
1. The application to a skirt waistband of a flexible non-extensible metallic strip
applied in combination with fastenings for uniting the ends of the band, such
fastenings being attached to the metal strip as well as to the waist band so that the
strain will be wholly borne by the metal strip, as specified.
2. A skirt waistband having a flexible and non-elastic metallic strip inserted
in a sheath in the band in combination with a fastening formed of a stud and
oyelet respectively rivetted through the band and the metallic strip towards the
opposite ends thereof, so that the strain will be wholly borne by the metal strip, as
specified.
3. A skirt waist band having a flexible non-elastic metal strip inserted in a
sheath of the band in combination with duplicate studs and corresponding eyelets
respectively rivetted through the band and strip near the opposite ends thereof, the
two sets of fastenings serving to maintain a certain extent of overlap of the ends of
the band and of the opening of the skirt, as specified.
JOSEPH HEILBRUN,
By A. M. & Wm. Clark,
63, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agenta.