Especially Applicable to Drafting the Basques and Bodies of Women's Dresses.
Year: 1885

page_text: Especially Applicable to Drafting the Basques and Bodies of
Women's Dresses.
I ALBERT MCDOWELL, a Citizen of the United States of America, residing at
No G, West Fourteenth Street; New York City, U.S.A. Manufacturer do hereby
declare the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN ADJUSTABLE PATTERNS
FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS, ESPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO DRAFTING THE BASQUES
AND BODIES OF WOMEN'S DRESSES to be as follows:-
My invention relates to a pattern made up of sections, one for the front, or
front-body, one for the under-arm piece, one for the side-body, and one for the
back, or back-body. These form the pattern for the entire body, except the sleeves.
Another section provides an adjustable pattern for the sleeves. Each section is
made up of plates which are connected together in such a manner as to enable the
pattern to be adjusted to the measures, and clamps or clamping screws are provided
to hold the plates in position when set. I usually provide the parts with scales in
order that the pattern may be set to the measure without the necessity of applying
a tape or rule to it. The plates are usually made of metal, but other suitable
materials may be used, as hard rubber for example.
In the accompanying drawings which serve to illustrate my invention,--Figure 1
represents the pattern for the front-body; Figure 2 the pattern for the under-arm
piece, which I construct separate from the front-body pattern; Figure 3 represents
the pattern for the side-body and Figure 4 the pattern for the back-body. Each
of these represents one-half and when applied to folded material serve to give the
proper shape to the two corresponding pieces of the fabric. All the views are face
views and show the plates of the pattern sections set to correspond with each
other, and to a predetermined measure. Figures 1, 2, 3, and 48 represent,
respectively, pieces of fabric cut from the patterns shewn in Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4,
but on a reduced scale. Figures 5 and 6 represent the dress-body as made up from
these pieces, Figure 5 being a front view and Figure 6 a back view. Figure 7
represents the adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the view being a face view and on
the same scale as the first four figures. Figures 7 and 7 represent the wide and
narrow parts of the sleeve cut by this pattern as set, but on a reduced scale.
Where seams are required the border plates of the pattern are of the proper width

page_text: tr
to allow for same, the outer edges of the plates marking the cutting line and the
inner edges the sewing line. The plates are connected together either rigidly, that
is to say, by rivets or integrally; by a hinge rivet or stud; or adjustably connected
by means of slots and sliding rivets and clamp screws. For brevity I will refer to
the first named attachments as rigid," the second as "hinged" and the third
simply by the word "connected" or "adjustably connected" according to whether
it is merely an extension connection, or an adjustable connection with a clamp.
Referring to the front body pattern, Figure 1; A¹ and A* are rigidly connected.
A² is connected to A¹ below, and A³ to A¹ above. The plates A1, A2, A3 form the
front line of pattern, and form the line a in Figure 1a, usually about 1½ inches
from the edge of the fabric. Line a may be curved, if desired. A³ is connected
to A', A is hinged to A', and A' is connected to A. A' is hinged to A6 and
connected to A³. As is usually hinged to A9, which is connected to A*. A may, if
desired, be connected adjustably to Aº. A10 is hinged to A' and connected to A¹¹.
A12 is adjustably hinged to A¹ and connected to A¹³. A15 is hinged to A12 and
adjustably hinged to A".. The lower prolongation of A2, and A1 and A, form the
skirt-portion of the pattern below the waist, and may or may not be employed.
A is an L-shaped plate connected at a¹ to A' and at a* to A*. It forms a parallel
motion to maintain the proper difference between the darts as to length. The dart-
plates Z1, Z2, Z3, Z, Z, Z, Z' and Zs are connected together as clearly shewn, and
to plate A at their tops and A13 at their bottom ends.
Referring to the pattern for the under-arm piece Figure 2; B' is rigidly connected
to B2, B* is connected to B¹ and hinged to B. B' is connected to B³, and B is
adjustably connected to B6. B° is rigidly connected to B³, which latter is connected
to B².
B7 is generally connected rigidly to B³ and B6. B is hinged to B' and
connected to B. B is hinged to B5. In lieu of the construction shown the
reverse construction may be employed. That is to say, plates B¹, B and B might
be attached to B4, B5 and B' and the plates B³, B' and B' be made movable out
and in.
Referring to the side-body pattern, Figure 3; C¹ has a branch C*. C¹ is connected
to C, C and C are joined to C². C' is hinged to C. Cs is adjustably connected
to C and hinged to C, which latter is adjustably connected to C³.
At its upper
end C is connected to C³, and C is adjustably connected to C*. C is a brace
connecting C and C. This brace is not an absolutely essential feature.
Referring to the back-body pattern, Figure 4; plate D' has a branch D*. D2 is
connected to D¹. D' has a curved branch adjustably connected to D³. D³ is
connected to D', which is adjustably connected to the upper end of curved plate Do,
which is hinged to Do, which is connected to branch D*. D' is adjustably connected
to lower end of D³, and is .connected to D8, which is adjustably hinged to D**,
which is a branch from D. D' is connected to D¹. D*** is a part of D°. D¹º is
hinged to D*** and is adjustably connected to D¹, which is hinged to Ds and
adjustably connected to D**.
The four sections of the pattern I have described form the patterns for the waist
or body of the dress. I will now describe the pattern for the sleeve, which is
provided with means for laying out the two parts, e¹ and e², of the sleeve, of
different widths; and this difference may be varied without at all affecting the
adjustment and setting of the pattern for size.
Referring to the sleeve pattern, Figure 7; E', E2 are connected together and form
the waist-end and scale. E³, E* are connected together and form the elbow-measure
or scale, E5 is rigidly connected to E at e, and connected to E. Es E control
length of sleeve from arm-hole to elbow on outside of arm. E' and E are rigidly
connected to E. E7 and Es control the width of upper and lower pieces at arm-
hole. The plate E' is rigidly connected to plate E6. E10 is rigidly connected to E6
and is connected to E¹, which is joined to E¹; E and E" control size of sleeve at
armhole. E is connected to E¹³, which latter is rigidly joined to E3. E¹ is
joined to E3 or E¹³, or both, as desired. E15 is connected to E14 at one end and
rigidly connected to E¹. E¹ E¹³ E¹ and E¹ mark the inner line of sleeve. E¹ is

page_text: connected to E' and E", which latter is adjustably connected to E' and hinged
to E18. Es is connected to E" and to E7. Plates E16 to E10 mark the exterior line
in laying out piece a¹. Plate E is connected to E8 and E. This latter is
connected to E20, which is connected to E. Plates E23 to E20 mark the exterior
line in laying out piece a'. Plates E', E20 and E" form the convex armhole-curve
on the piece a¹. These are connected as clearly shown. The curved plate E2 is
hinged to E23, and has a slotted sliding connection at the junction of El and E".
This plate E forms the concave armhole curve on the piece a³. Scales are usually
provided, as shown to set the pattern to size from the measures taken. The
scales e, e, es eº, I call "differential scales." They are scales of one-half size, and
enable the plates that mark the outer edges of the pieces e¹, e², to be set, respectively,
outside and inside of the zero marks on the scales, at equal distances, so that what
is taken off one piece may be added to the other. Thus any desired differences may
be made without affecting the adjustment for size.
In the several figures, x, x &c, represent clamping nuts or screws, or equivalent
devices for clamping the plates together when set. I usually mark the plates, as
indicated, with directions as to the use of the several parts, and with explanations
as to the scales. By making the pattern for the under-arm piece, (Figure 2)
separate from the pattern for the front-body, I am enabled to cut the material to
better advantage and also to adjust the patterns with less trouble.

page_text: Women's Dresses.
I, ALBERT MODOWELL a citizen of the United States, residing at No. 6 West
Fourteenth Street, New York City, United States of America, Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
My invention relates to that class of patterns which are made of parts adjustably
connected together whereby the pattern may be set or adjusted to the measures
taken and the parts then clamped together. When so set the material or paper
patterns may be outlined or marked by following the outlines of the, adjustable
pattern. In order to facilitate the setting of the pattern to the measures, and to
avoid as far as possible any reliance on the judgment of the operator in making
allowances etc. such patterns are usually provided with scales whereby the parts
may be adjusted to the measures taken. A pattern of this general character, and
especially designed for cutting out the upper parts of ladies' dresses' is shown in
my United States patent No. 310,297 of January 6, 1885. My present invention
is an improvement thereon.
The objects of my present invention are in general, to provide for a better
adjustment of the parts of the pattern, to remove non-essential and extraneous
parts which only add to the weight and cumbersome character of the pattern, to
provide a parallel motion or adjustment for the darts, whereby whatever may be
the length or width of the darts, the same relative proportions as to length will be
maintained; also to avoid the complexity and waste of material incident to the
formation of the hip-dart, which I now accomplish by making a separate pattern
for the under-arm piece, thus making a four part pattern for the body or waist of
the dress or other garment. I also provide a more perfect adjustment between the
curves of the side body and those of the back or back-body, and have made
changes in the side-body pattern, whereby I am enabled to place the material for
the skirt just at the point needed to suit changes of fashion. I also add a
pattern for the sleeve the novel characteristics of which will be hereinafter fully
set forth.
In the drawings which serve to illustrate my invention :-
Fig. 1 represents the pattern for the front of the body, and Fig. 2 represents the
pattern for the under-arm piece, now constructed separate from the front-pattern.
Fig. 3 represents the pattern for the side-body, and Fig. 4 the pattern for the back
of the body. Each of these represent one-half, and when applied to folded
material serves to determine the contour of the two corresponding pieces of the
fabric. All the views are face-views and show the parts of the patterns set to

page_text: correspond with each other and to a predetermined measure. Figs. 1 2, 3ª,
and 4 represent, respectively, pieces of fabric cut from the patterns shown in
Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4, but on a reduced scale for economy of space. Figs. 5 and 6
represent the dress-body made up from these pieces. Fig. 5 being a front view
and Fig. 6 a back view. Fig. 7 represents the adjustable pattern for the sleeve,
the view being a face view and on the same scale as Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4. Figs. 7ª
and 7b represent the wide and narrow parts of the sleeve cut from this pattern,
but on a reduced scale for economy of space. Figs. 7 and 7d illustrate modified
constructions of the sleeve-pattern which will be hereinafter described.
My pattern is usually made from sheet-metal, but other materials may be
employed. Those plates forming the outline where seams are required are of the
proper width to allow for the seam; therefore the outer margin, generally speaking,
marks the cutting line and the inner margin the seam, or sewing line. The parts
are connected together in three ways, namely, by rivets, or integrally, which for
convenience I will characterize by the words "rigidly connected," by a hinge-rivet
or stud to form a joint or articulation which I will characterize as "hinged" and
by slots and rivets or screws, so that the plates are at liberty to slide on each
other for purposes of adjustment which I will characterize by the single word
".connected."
Referring to Fig. 1, plates A¹ and A* are rigidly connected, the latter standing at
right angles to the former. Plate A is connected to A' below and plate A³ to A¹
above. The outer edges of plates A¹ A' and A³ form the front line of the pattern
usually about 1 inches from the edge of the fabric as indicated by the dotted
line a in Fig. 1. This line may be curved outwardly, if desired, but this slight
curvature will usually be allowed by the operator. In my present invention
I omit the outer plates for determining the distance the pattern is to be set from
the edge of the material, as cumbersome and unnecessary.
Plate A³ is connected to A, and forms with the latter a part of the neck curve.
A is hinged to A, and A' is connected to A³, the two forming the shape of the
shoulder. A is hinged to A' and connected to A8, the two forming part of the
arm-hole. A8 is usually hinged to A, which is connected to A, the branch
from A¹.
It may be advantageous to connect A8 to Aº adjustably by means of a slot and
screw. A* and A' give the width of the front and are usually provided with a
scale as shown. A10 is hinged to A and connected to A". A 10 and A¹¹ form the
pattern for the under-arm seam. These are usually provided with a scale. A¹² is
adjustably hinged to A" and connected to A¹³. A1 and A¹³ form the waist line,
and A¹ is usually provided with scales as shown. In order to furnish a pattern
for the upper or hip-portion of the skirt I usually add the parts A15 and A16
Plate A is binged to A" and adjustably hinged to A16 at its lower, end, and to A"
at its upper end. A1 is hinged to the downward prolongation of A³. I do not
consider this skirt-portion an essential part of my pattern.
A is an L-shaped plate connected at a¹ to A¹ and at a* to A*. Its longer
transverse branch stands at a fixed angle with plates A¹ and A*, and it has an
adjustment up and down parallel to A¹. Z are the dart plates. In themselves
they present no novelty over the dart-plates shown in my said former patent.
ZZZ³ and Z form the first dart, Z³ Z Z' and Z8 form the second dart. These
plates are connected to A¼ at the top and to A13 at the bottom. The adjustment
of the plate A up or down varies the lengths of the darts, but the difference in
their lengths remains always the same. On As I usually place a dart-scale as
shown.
The method of using the front body portion is so similar to that described in my
former patent, that a detailed description further, than given above will not be
required.
eferring to the under arm pattern, Fig. 2, plate B is rigidly connected to B³.
B is connected to B and hinged to B. B is connected to B³, and B is adjustably
connected to B. Be is rigidly connected to B³ which latter is connected to B³.

page_text: "
B¹ and B are usually provided with scales as shown. b is generally rigidly con-
nected to B3 and B. The plates B³ B and B' when so connected may as well be
integral except for economy of construction. B8 is hinged to B' and is connected
to B. B is hinged to B³. B7, B8 and B form the pattern for the skirt portion.
When the under arm pattern is laid on the fabric the operator marks both the
inner and outer edge of the plates B² B³ and B' the outer being the cutting line
and the inner the sewing line of the under-arm seam. He marks both the inner
and outer edges of plates B B and B to indicate the cutting and sewing line of
the side seam which joins the under arm piece to the side-body. The outer
margins of B and B* form part of the arm-hole curve and the lower edge of B° the
waist line. It will be understood that those edges of the pieces cut by the plates
A10 A1 and A¹ in Fig. 1, and B2 B³ and B7 in Fig. 2 are joined together in making
the garment and the hip dart is thus formed. Where the skirt is abbreviated as in
a basque or sacque, the under arm piece inay be cut independently of the front and
with considerable economy. In cutting this piece the plate B is laid properly
with the grain or figure of the fabric. In this pattern for the under arm piece
I have shown the plates B* B and B and B constructed to be moved in and out
along plates B1, B6 and B, and .B* as hinged to B4; but it is obvious that this
arrangement might be reversed. The plates B1, B6 and B8 might be attached to
B4, B5 and B, and the plates B2 B3 and B7 be made movable out and in.
Referring to the side-body pattern Fig. 3, plate C¹ has a branch C*. C¹ is
connected to C². C and C are joined to C2, C7 is hinged to C. Cs is adjustably
connected to C7 and hinged to C, which latter is adjustably connected to C³. At
its upper end C is connected to C3 which latter is adjustably.connected to O*.
C is a brace connecting C³ to C. I do not consider this as an essential feature;
other equivalent. means may be substituted for it. Scales are usually employed on
the plates C¹ C* C³ C5 and C7 as shown. Fig. 3ª illustrates the application of the
side body pattern. Lines drawn at the inner edges of all the plates except C*
and C7 giving the sewing lines, indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 3. The lower
edge of C is the waist line. The sewing line along the inner edges of the plates
CC and C join the seam line along the inner edges of plates B₁ B³ and B⁹ of
Fig. 2. The adjustment of plate C³ on C*, the hinging of the plate C8 at the
waist-line, and the staying of the plates C5 and C6 as described possess important
advantages in enabling the operator to keep the top of the side body of the proper
width at the arm-hole, and to adjust the dress material below the waist to suit the
bustle, or place the fullness where it is required.
Referring to Fig. 4 which shows the pattern for the back or back-body, D² is a
plate provided with a branch. D* rivetted to it or formed integral with it.
Plate D2 is connected to D¹. This plate D² has a curved branch which is adjustably
connected to D¹. D³ is connected to D', which latter is adjustably connected to the
upper end of a curved plate D. D is hinged to Do which is connected to the
branch plate D*. D' is adjustably connected to the lower end of D and is
connected to D8, and D8 is adjustably hinged to D** which latter is a branch fixed
rigidly to D or forming a part thereof. D is connected to D2 D*** is also a
part of D being usually formed integrally therewith to extend the pattern below
the waist-line which is indicated by the lower edge of D**. D1° is hinged to D***
and is adjustably connected to D, and this latter is hinged to D8 and adjustably
connected to D**.. The curved branch of D¹ (which forms part of the pattern for
the neck curve) plate D³, the curved plate D5 (which forms part of the pattern for
the arm-hole) plate D, plate D7 plate Dº, plate D** and plate D1º are usually
provided with scales, as shown.
·
The plates C on the pattern for the side body (Fig. 3) and the plate D³ on the
pattern for the back-body (Fig. 4) each form a part of the arm-hole curve, and
each is provided with a scale as shown. Now when the measure is taken and
set on these scales the portion of the arm-hole cut by the said plates will be of
the proper length. The scales are so proportioned to each other, as will be well
understood, that this result will be effected..
در

page_text: '
The parts of this back-body pattern are adjusted and set to the measures, and
the piece cut therefrom will take the form shown in Fig. 4° the dotted lines in
which indicate the sewing lines. The sewing line at the centre of the back from
the waist line up will usually join the line drawn along the inner edge of D' at D*,
depending somewhat upon the fullness required in the back. The length of the
skirt, below the waist line will be determined by fashion. The plates D1 and D***
extend down below the waist line t provide for the necessary fullness for the skirt
or basque. By providing an adjustable connection where the lower end of D joins
the upper end of D7, the operator is enabled to place the top of the back-curve
higher or lower as fashion or the figure may require. The sewing line, marked by
plates D Ds and D" in Fig. 4, joins the line marked by plates C³ C and C³ in
Fig. 3. The sewing line marked by the inner edges of plates D¹ D* Dº and D***
join the corresponding line on the other half of the back. The sewing line marked
by plates Ds and D* joins the line marked by the plates A" and A6 in Fig. 1 forming
the shoulder-seam.
These four patterns seen in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4 form the patterns for the entire
body or waist of the "dress" except the sleeves. I will now describe the sleeve-
pattern referring to Fig. 7.
The plates E and E2 are connected and control the size of the sleeve at the
wrist. The plates E3 and E are connected and control the size of the sleeve at the
elbow. E is rigidly connected to Eat e and is connected to E. E' and E6 control
the length of the sleeve from armhole to elbow, on the outside of the arm. E' and Es
are rigidly connected to E. E and Es control the width of the upper and under
pieces of the sleeve at the arm-hole. The upper piece, c¹, (Fig. 7) is generally
wider than the under piece, e², (Fig. 7b) and the difference in their width varies
with the fashion. Hereinafter I will explain how this difference is effected with
the patterns.
E is rigidly connected to E and controls the highest point of the curve in the
upper part of the sleeve at the armhole. E10 is rigidly connected to E and is
connected to E¹¹ which latter is joined to E¹. E1° and E control the size of the
sleeve at the arm-bole. E¹ is connected to E13, which latter is rigidly joined to E³.
E is joined to to E3 or E¹³, or both, as desired, and E¹ is connected to E14 at one
end and rigidly connected to E¹. E12 E13, E and E¹ give the shape of the inside
of the sleeve and the sewing line for same and also control the curve of the sleeve.
The rigid connection of E¹ to Els gives the angle at the wrist-end of the sleeve.
The plate E is adjustably connected to E2, and connected also to E", which
latter is adjustably connected to E, and hinged to E18. E18 is connected to E1 and
adjustably connected to E'. These plates E16 E17 E15 E19 form the outer countour
from the hand to the arm-hole of the larger or upper piece, e¹, of the sleeve, and
the other sewing line. Plate E2 is adjustably connected to E8, and connected
to E This latter is adjustably connected to E and hinged to E25. This latter
is connected to E, which in turn is adjustably connected to E². These plates E23
E2 E25 and E26 form the outer contour, from wrist to arm-hole of the smaller or
lower-piece, e², of the sleeve, and the outer sewing line of this piece. The convex
arm-hole curve at the end of piece e¹ (Fig. 7) is formed by the plates E7 E20
and E. E20 is a curved and slotted plate, hinged to E6 at one end, and adjustably
connected to plates E and E. Plate E" is adjustably connected to E and E20 at
one end, and has a slotted connection at its other end at the junction of Eu
and E. The curved plate E2 is hinged at one end to the end of E23 and has a
slotted connection at the junction of plates E" and E" at the same point that E"
is connected therewith. Scales are usually provided on E¹ E2 E³ E' E' E' E'
and E. Where the measure is taken from the inside of the arm such scales may
also be provided on plates E¹ and E15.
In cutting out a sleeve with one part wider than the other, as indicated
in Figs. 7 and 7b, it will be understood that in order to maintain the proper
measure that which is taken from the width of one piece must be added to the

page_text: "
other. Therefore I usually make the scales e e e e half-size, and set the connected
plates forming the exterior outlines of the pieces e e¹ accordingly. That is to say,
in the example, plates E16 and e26 are set at 1-1 on opposite sides of the zero mark
on the differential wrist-scale, es, plates E1 and E25 at 2, 2, on opposite sides of the
zero mark on the differential elbow-scale, e, and plates E1 and E29 at 6 and 6
respectively on the differential scales e³ and e6 at the armhole. This gives a
difference of 6 inches at the armhole, 2 inches at the elbow, and 1 inch at the
wrist. The adjustments at ea, e¹, es and es may be termed the "fashion
adjustments as they are only used to govern the style of the sleeve and have
nothing to do with its size or proportion. On plate E' is the wrist-scale, on
plate E³ is the elbow-scale, and on plate El is the arm-hole scale. It will be
obvious that any pre-determined difference in the width of the two-pieces forming
the sleeve, as determined by fashion, may be maintained without reference to the
width or.
r. length of the sleeve, the former being determined by the wrist, elbow
and armhole scales just mentioned, and the latter by scales on plates E and E¹;
the former gives the length from arm-hole to elbow and the latter from elbow
to wrist. The dotted lines in Fig. 7 show the position of the parts when the
difference between the widths of the two parts of the sleeve is reduced to zero at
the wrist to 1 inch at the elbow, and to three inches at the armhole. This
difference in the widths of the two pieces carries the back-seam farther under the
arm, and also generally determines the gather or fullness at the elbow but as said
before it has nothing to do with the size of the sleeve. My pattern enables me to
retain the size of the sleeve while I vary the difference of width of its pieces and
also to maintain a certain difference in the width of the pieces and at the same
time vary the size. Thus any prevailing fashion as to width of the pieces may be
followed by setting the plates of the pattern properly to the differential scales,
while the size may be varied for each sleeve-cut, if necessary.
To get the high point at the arm-hole, adjust plate E¹ to the armhole size
along the scale on plate E. The other end of plate E" will adjust itself at its
connection with E, as will also plate E22 when plate E23 is moved.
.. This pattern enables the operator to draft the sleeve directly on the material
and gives both the cutting and sewing lines. It varies the width of the two
pieces at the wrist, elbow and armhole independently and without disturbing the
movements for the size of the sleeve. It locates the elbow-point by measure and
enables the operator to draft any of the ordinary styles of sleeves.
As I have described my pattern it is adapted to work from a length measure
taken from the outside or back part of the arm from shoulder to elbow and from
elbow to wrist. But I can also take the measure on the inside of the arm and
thus locate the elbow and get the length of the sleeve. In this case I would use
the scale on plate E¹ to locate the elbow and the scale on plate E¹ to complete
the length. When the measurement is taken in this way plates E' and E may be
omitted as non-essential, plates E1 and Es being in this case united to plate E7,
and plate E⁹ to E". Plate Eu should also in this case, be rigidly connected to E¹
instead of hinged thereto.
with equally good results,
In lieu of the construction shown in Fig. 7, and
I may attach E" to E¹, and E¹ to E' down nearer the elbow than as shown,
these connected plates E1 and El passing under or over E23, as desired. And
in this case I would connect E8 rigidly to E at the same point that E' is
connected to E. This construction would enhance the symmetrical appearance
of. the rigidly connected plates E6 E7 and E8 E9 might be, in this construction
secured. rigidly to E instead of E6. This modified construction is illustrated
in Fig. 7o.
In Fig. 7 I have illustrated another slight modification wherein plates E5 and E*
are omitted. When using this construction the length from armhole to elbow
is taken on the inside of the arm, as I have before stated it may be, and is set on
the scale on plate.E. Other slight changes of construction are also illustrated in

page_text: this view, namely, plate Ex is rigidly attached to plate E¹ and plate E2 is hinged
to plate E¹, and is made in two parts to slide on each other. Plate Es has
combined with it integrally plate E10 and plate E" is coupled at its opposite ends
to this combined plate and to plate E", and slides on them. Fig. 7d shows the
modified construction clearly. The scales on plates E and E, are the same as in
the other constructions. It will be observed that the construction is somewhat
simpler than that shown in Fig. 7° as several plates are omitted; but it does not
form so stiff a pattern as the former.
or their
In the several figures xx etc. indicate clamping nuts and screws
equivalents, which serve to prevent any sliding of the plates on each other after
the pattern is properly set.
By reason of the improvements herein described I am able to accomplish certain
desirable results not, so far as I am aware, heretofore accomplished. By separating
the front body pattern from the pattern for the under-arm piece I am better enabled
to follow the usual division of the waist as now made, which calls for two pieces
instead of one in the front. Also by reason of the improved construction of the
pattern for the side-body I am enabled to change the width at the armhole, and
keep the lines drawn by plates C and Cs of a better shape below the waist-line.
Other advantages have been already set forth.
I do not wish to limit myself to the precise construction of the pattern herein
described as this may be varied to some extent without departing from my invention,
as indicated above. Such slight changes come within the knowledge of those skilled
in the art and may be made by any one.
I am aware that it has been proposed to construct an adjustable sleeve-pattern
with movable plates for outlining both pieces of the sleeve; but so far as I am
aware I am the first to provide such a pattern with differential scales, as shown,
and to so construct it that the style may be varied without changing the size of the
sleeve or losing its measurements.
Having now. particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said.
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what.
I claim is-
1. An adjustable pattern for the body of a dress or similar garment constructed-
in four separate or inter-dependent parts, namely:-the pattern for the front-body,
the pattern for the under-arm piece, the pattern for the side-body, and the pattern
for the back-body, substantially as described, whereby the under arm piece may be
drafted separately from the front-body and side-body and to better advantage.
than heretofore, as set forth.
2. In an adjustable pattern for the front-body, the combination with the slotted
plates A¹ A* A* and A¹³ and the plates forming the dart patterns, all constructed
and arranged, substantially as described, of the slotted, angular plate A", connected
to plates A¹ and A* and to the tops of the dart-plates, substantially as and for the
purposes set forth.
3. The pattern for the under arm piece, constructed separate from the pattern for
the front-body, and provided with the plates B' B and B to form a pattern for the
skirt below the waist-line, substantially as set forth.
4. The pattern for the under-arm piece provided. with the slotted plate B¹ fixed'
rigidly to the plate. B², and the, curved plate B* hinged to the plate B* and
adjustably connected to the plate B¹ to form the arm-hole pattern, substantially as
set forth.
-
5. An adjustable pattern for the under-arm piece, comprising the several
plates B¹ B* B B³ B+ B and B substantially as set forth.
6. An adjustable pattern for the under-arm piéce comprising the plates B¹
and B, connected adjustably to the plates B and B³ by slotted cross-plates, and
a curved plate at the top to form part of the arm-hole curve, substantially as set
forth.

page_text: 7. The combination with the adjustable pattern for the side body, provided with a
slotted connection between the plates C* and C³, and with a scale on plate C* of
the adjustable pattern for the back body provided with a slotted connection
between the plates D and D7 and with a scale on plate D, the said scales on
plates C and D³ being so proportioned as described, that when set to measure and
the parts cut by the patterns, the portion of the arm-hole cut by said plates C* and
D will be of the desired length, as set forth.
8. An adjustable pattern for the side-body, comprising the plate C¹ provided with
the slotted branch C*, the plates C2, C3, and C, the plate C³, connected adjustably
to branch C*, the plate C connected to plates C³, C and C8 substantially as shown,
the plate C and the plate Cs, connected adjustably to plate C5 and C7, substantially
as set forth.
9. The combination with the plates D1, D2, D3, D*, D³, D**, and D8 of the back-body
pattern, arranged and constructed substantially as described, of the curved plate D³,
slotted at both ends and hinged between said slotted ends to the plate Do, and
provided with scales at their slotted ends and the plates D' and D', connected
respectively to the said slotted upper and lower ends of said plate D³, substantially
as and for the purposes set forth.
10. An adjustable pattern for the sleeve substantially as described, comprising
adjustable plates for drafting both the upper and under parts, e¹ and e² of the sleeve
and said plates provided, substantially as described, with differential scales ese es
and e, whereby the addition to and substraction from the width of said pieces may
be made without changing the size of sleeve, as set forth.
11. An adjustable sleeve pattern comprising the sliding plates at the wrist for
controlling and adjusting the wrist-measure, the sliding-plates at the elbow for
controlling and adjusting the elbow measure, the sliding plates E10 and E¹¹ for con-
trolling and adjusting the measure at the armhole, the sliding plates E and E° for
controlling and adjusting the measure from armhole to elbow, the sliding plates
for drafting the inner and outer curves of the sleeve, substantially as described,
and the curved sliding-plates for drafting the armhole curves, substantially as
described.
12. In an adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the combination with the plates E³,
E', E, E, E7, E8, and E10 arranged substantially as described, of the plates E16,
E1, E18, and E9 for marking the exterior edge of the upper [piece e¹, and the
plates E23, E34, E3, and E28 for marking the exterior edge of the lower piece, e², all
arranged substantially as set forth.
13. In an adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the combination with the plates E³,
E¹º, E, and E¹ of the plates E°, E20, and E21, for forming the convex armhole-curve,
all arranged and connected substantially as set forth.
14. In an adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the combination with the plates E³,
E6, E8, E10, E and E" of the plates E23 and E, and the slotted curved plate E²⁹
hinged to E3 and having a slotted connection with E¹³, substantially as and for the
purposes set forth.
15. In an adjustable pattern for the sleeve the combination of the several plates
E¹, E³, E³, E, E³, Eº, E³, E¹º, E, E¹³, E¹³, E14, E1, E", E23, E34, E25 and E all
arranged and connected substantially as set forth for use in drafting the piece e³,
as described.
16. In an adjusting pattern for the sleeve the combination of the several plates
E, E², E³, E, E10, E1, E12, E¹³, E14, E15, E16, E17 E18, E¹º, E7, Eº, E20, and E" all
arranged and connected substantially as set forth, for use in drafting the piece e¹,
as described. .
17. In an adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the combination of the several
plates E1, E2, at the wrist, E³, E4, at the elbow, E¹º, E", at the armhole, E12, E15,
E14, E15, at the inside of the arm, E1 E17, from wrist to elbow outside, E5, Ee, from
armhole to elbow outside, E, E20, E21, convex curve at armhole and E2, E23, and E24
concave curve at armhole, all arranged substantially as shown whereby the sleeve
may be drafted of two like-sized pieces, as set forth,

page_text: 18. A pattern for drafting the body of a dress or similar garment constructed of
four separate but interdependent parts, namely the pattern for the front-body, the
pattern for the under-arm piece, the pattern for the side-body and the pattern for
the back-body, each of said patterns being constructed of connected plates, and
made adjustable as to size and form, and provided with suitable scales, substantially
as set forth, whereby each may be independently set to the measure taken and the
parts of the garment cut directly therefrom.