IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN ACCESSORIES THEREFOR."
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES, AND IN ACCESSORIES THEREFOR." A communication
from abroad by Charles-Henry Willcox, of New York City, United States
of Amonics
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 21st July 1880.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN ACCESSORIES
THEREFOR." A communication from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox, of New
York City, United States of America.
This Invention relates to machines for sewing a continuous plait or braid upon
itself, so as to form a hat or other article, and also to machines for attaching
covered wire to the brim of a hat or other article. The Invention comprises
improvements in the feed mechanism, in the spool holder, in the means for
attaching a work guide to the presser foot and adjusting it thereon in the plait
guides, and means for adjustment in the mechanism for stitching a covered wire to
a hat brim, and in the particular construction of the wire guide, needle guide, and
needle forming part of the said last named mechanism.
In straw sewing machines the cloth or throat plate should be small, and
approaching a curved form in order to be adapted to hats and other hollow articles.
The communicator of the present Invention has heretofore employed a feed move-
ment capable of general application, but specially adapted for use in a machine
having such reduced throat plate, in which the motions of the feed surface are
This eccentric is located
obtained in practically right lines from a single eccentric.
on the opposite side of the shaft, bearing from the needle hole in the throat plate,
so as to be removed from the wear due to small particles of straw; and the motion
is communicated to the feed bar in a horizontal direction through a connecting rod,
the head of which encircles the eccentric and a feed rocker, to which the feed bar
is hinged, and the connecting rod jointed by means of an adjustable connection
(the rocker itself being hinged to the machine frame), and it is communicated in a

page_text: :
vertical direction directly to the feed bar, the end of which is forked, and embraces
the head of the aforesaid connecting rod. The whole of the feed operating
mechanism is carried to a sufficient distance to the right to admit of the widest
plaits being sewed without having the edge of the work come in contact with any
part of the operating mechanism. The only portion of the feed-bar projecting
under the throat plate being the arm carrying the feed surface, the throat plate
can be reduced to the smallest practical dimensions to admit of sewing a very
small cylinder.
.
-When-the-flat surfaces of the fork and the round head of the connecting rod
move in contact with each other considerable wear is produced, which cannot be
readily taken up. The difficulty is overcome by interposing a shoe, circular on
the inside to fit the head of the connecting rod, and flat on the top and bottom to
give a suitable bearing surface for the fork of the feed bar, and provided with a
tongue on one of the said flat surfaces, viz., the bottom surface, and this con-
struction forms a part of the present Invention.
Heretofore in connection with sewing machines a spool holder has been employed,
in which the spool being stationary the thread is drawn off over a cup shaped disc,
slipping around its edge in unwinding. When the spool is nearly exhausted, and
the thread makes a sharp angle over the edge of the disc, the thread will sometimes
bind with sufficient force to cause its breaking. The difficulty is overcome in the
present Invention by means of a disc supported so as to be capable of turning, so
that when the thread binds upon its edge it revolves, and the thread is unwound
properly. At other times the thread may slip on the edges of the disc in the
usual way.
The revolving disc is used in combination with two cupped dises for embracing
opposite ends of a spool. It is attached to a spindle turning in a recess in a rod or
pin, on which the spool is mounted.
3.
The work guide is attached to the presser foot by means of a tongue and groove
and a single screw, and is adjusted by means of a device operating as a lever to
move the guide nearer to or farther from the path of the needle; it is, like the
guide, carried by the presser foot. The work guide embodies an edge guide for the
work or partly finished hat and a separator plate.
The improvements with relation to the plait guides consist in the adjustment of
the guide for the inner edge of the plait by means of a rack and pinion or similar
device operated by rotary or vibratory motion in a guide for the outer edge of the
plait carried by and adjustable with reference to the inner edge plait guide, and
in the combination with the other guides of a stationary_bent_pin (its-end-being-
bent downwards), which holds down the plait and acts also as an outer edge
guide when sewing at the usual distance from the edge of the plait or braid.
The plait guide, which guides the inner edge of the plait, is held in position by
means of a screw passing through a slot in the guide, and engaging in a screw
thread opening in the frame of the machine, and a tongue which fits in a groove in
the guide; under the head of the screw is a spring washer. The guide is adjusted
by means of a rack attached to or formed in one piece with the guide, and of a
pinión carried by an arbor supported in a bearing on the machine frame, and
provided with a milled head for turning by hand. The adjustment can, in this
way, be readily and quickly effected, and with great nicety. Another guide is
formed by a pin, which passes through a hole in the flange of the plait guide
proper, and is retained in position by the same screw. By this arrangement the
bent end of the pin, which serves only to hold the plait against the flange of the
plait guide, always remains in the same position, while the position of the guide
inay be varied to suit the various widths of plait, and no adjustment of the piu is
required. The plait can be readily inserted or removed by passing it edgewise
between the bent end of the pin and the lower edge of the throat plate.
The direction in which the plait is brought from the reel prevents any tendency
of the plait to escape from its position. An adjustable guide is provided for the
outer edge of the plait, so that the line of stitching may be closer to or farther

page_text: from the edge. It is carried by the plait guide, and is of course adjustable with it
relatively to the stitch forming devices. In order to embrace plaits of different
widths it is adjustable relatively to the plait guide, being held in any position in
which it may be placed by the pressure of the split end of a rod, which carries it
against the sides of the hole in the plait guide, in which it is placed. A finger is
pivoted and attached to the flange of the plait guide by a screw and nut, the
object of such finger being to hold down the inner edge of the plait.
In attaching covered wire to hats and other articles it is desirable in order that
the attachment may be secure that the stitches should be uniformally made in the
covering close to the wire. With machines using the ordinary needle, having the
point in the central line or axis, the stitching cannot be made as close to the wire
as desirable, since the bevel near the point would, if the latter passed close to the
wire, force it sideways, tearing the covering of the wire, or breaking or bending
the needle. In this Invention a needle having its point in the plane of one of its
sides is employed. It is combined with a guide for the wire arranged with its
axis at a slight distance from the path of the needle and in the plane of the feed
movement, or in a plane parallel thereto, and the needle is also combined with a
needle guide arranged with relation to the wire guide, so that the point of the
needle is guided close to the wire, the wire when placed in the wire guide and
the needle guide being both adjacent to that side of the needle in the plane of
which the point is situated.
The needle guide is attached to or forms part of the presser foot (being in close
proximity to and above the work), so as effectually to guide the needle until the
point has begun to penetrate the material sewed, and also while it is passing
through the same, when the bevel being, practically on one side is apt to bend the
point out of line. The needle guide is conveniently formed by bevelling the
presser at a point opposite the path of the needle. The needle which is by pre-
ference employed, being adapted to sewing machines of the most usual construction,
is one having the side in the plane of which the point is situated grooved upwards
from the eye, which latter has its axis perpendicular to the aforesaid plane, and
having also the shank cut away at the bottom.
This Invention also comprises an important wire guide, consisting of a grooved
support pierced with a needle hole, and provided with a locking latch, having a
spring for closing it, and stops to limit its movement.

page_text: January 1881.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN ACCESSORIES
THEREFOR." A communication from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox, of New
"York City, United States of America.
The said Invention relates to machines for sewing a continuous plait or braid
upon itself, so as to form a hat or other article, and also to machines for attaching
covered wire to the brim of a hat or other article. The Invention comprises
improvements in the feed mechanism, in the spool holder, in the means for attaching
a work guide to the presser foot and adjusting it thereon, in the plait guides. and
means for adjustment, in the mechanism for stitching a covered wire to a hat brim,
and in the particular construction of the wire guide, needle guide, and needle
forming part of the said last named. mechanism.
In straw sewing machines the cloth or throat plate should be small, and
approaching a curved form in order to be adapted to hats and other hollow articles.
The communicator of the present Invention has heretofore employed a feed
movement capable of general application, but specially adapted for use in a machine
having such reduced throat plate, in which the motions of the feed surface are
obtained in practically right lines from a single eccentric. This eccentric is located
on the opposite side of the shaft bearing from the needle hole in the throat plate,
so as to be removed from the wear due to small particles of straw; and the motion
is communicated to the feed bar in a horizonal direction, through a connecting
rod, the head of which encircles the eccentric, and a feed rocker, to which the feed
bar is hinged and the connecting rod jointed by means of an adjustable connection
(the rocker itself being hinged to the machine frame), and it is communicated in a
vertical direction directly to the feed bar, the end of which is forked and embraces
the head of the aforesaid connecting rod. The whole of the feed operating
mechanism is carried to a sufficient distance to the right to admit of the widest
plaits being sewn_without_having_the_edge_of_the_work.come in contact with.any
part of the operating mechanism. The only portion of the feed bar projecting
under the throat plate being the arm carrying the feed surface, the throat plate
can be reduced to the smallest practical dimensions to admit of sewing a very
small cylinder.
When the flat surfaces of the fork and the round head of the connecting rod move
in contact with each other, considerable wear is produced which cannot be readily
taken up. The difficulty is overcome by interposing a shoe, circular on the inside
to fit the head of the connecting rod, and flat on top and bottom to give a suitable
bearing surface for the fork of the feed bar, and this construction forms a part of
the present Invention.
Heretofore in connection with sewing machines a spool holder has been employed,
in which the spool being stationary the thread is drawn off over a cup shaped
disc, slipping around its edge in unwinding. When the spool is nearly exhausted
and the thread makes a sharp angle over the edge of the disc, the thread will
sometimes bind with sufficient force to cause its breaking. The difficulty is
overcome in the present Invention by means of a disc supported so as to be capable
of turning, so that when the thread binds upon its edge it revolves and the thread
is unwound properly. At other times the thread may slip on the edges of the
disc in the usual way.
The work guide is attached to the presser foot by means of a tongue and groove
and a single screw, and is adjusted by means of a device operating as a lever to

page_text: move the guide nearer to or farther from the path of the needle. It is, like the
guide, carried by the presser foot. The work guide embodies an edge guide for the
work or partly finished hat and a separator plate.
The improvements with relation to the plait guides consist in the adjustment of
the guide for the inner edge of the plait by means of a rack and pinion or similar
device operated by rotary or vibratory motion, in a guide for the outer edge of the
plait, carried by and adjustable with reference to the inner edge plait guide, and
in the combination with the other guides of a stationary bent pin, which holds
down the plait and acts also as an outer edge guide when sewing at the usual
distance from the edge of the plait or braid.
In attaching covered wire to hats and other articles, it is desirable, in order that
the attachment may be secure, that the stitches should be uniformly made in the
covering close to the wire. With machines using the ordinary needle, having the
point in the central line or axis, the stitching cannot be made as close to the wire as
desirable, since the bevel near the point would, if the latter passed close to the wire,
force.it sideways, tearing the covering of the wire or breaking or bending the needle.
In this Invention a needle having its point in the plane of one of its sides is
employed. It is combined with a guide for the wire and also with a needle guide
arranged with relation thereto, so that the point of the needle is guided close to the
wire; the wire when placed in the wire guide and the needle guide being both
adjacent to that side of the needle in the plane of which the point is situate.
The needle guide is attached to or forms part of the presser foot so as effectually
to guide the needle until the point has begun to penetrate the material sewn, and
also while it is passing through the same, when the bevel, being practically on one
side, is apt to bend the point out of line. The needle which is by preference
employed, being adapted to sewing machines of the most usual construction, is one
having the side in the plane of which the point is situate, grooved upwards from
the eye, which latter has its axis perpendicular to the aforesaid plane, and having
also the shank cut away at the bottom.
This Invention also comprises an improved wire guide, consisting of a grooved
support pierced with a needle hole, and provided with a locking latch, having a
spring for closing it and stops to limit its movement.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to
the several Figures on the annexed Sheet of Drawings, the same letters of reference
indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding Figures.
Figure 1 of the accompanying Drawings is a perspective view of the improved
machine for sewing straw braid so as to form a hat; Figure 2, a similar view from
a different position, and with the upper part of the machine cut away and plait
guides removed; Figure 3, a view illustrating the relative position of the feed
eccentric connecting rod fork of the feed bar and interposed shoe; Figure 4, a plan
of the connecting rod; Figure 5, an enlarged view of a portion of the feed bar partly
in elevation and partly in section through the fork in the feed bar; Figure 6, a
perspective view of the shoe detached; Figure 7, detail views, showing the manner
of attaching the work guide to the presser foot and of adjusting it in position
thereon; Figure 8 is a perspective view of a somewhat modified form of work
guide; Figure 9, a sectional view of the improved spool holder; Figure 10, a view
detached of the small plait guide, and Figure 11 a sectional view through the head
of the machine, showing the construction of the automatic tension used; Figure 12.
represents in perspective a portion of a sewing machine embodying the improve-
ment for sewing covered wire to hat brims; Figure 13 is a plan drawn to an
enlarged scale; Figure 14, a front elevation, partly in section, of the same;
Figure 15 represents enlarged views of the needle in elevation and cross section.
A is the cloth or throat plate; A¹, the stationary arm or gooseneck; A², the
needle lever pivoted to the standard of the gooseneck; and A³, the main shaft from

page_text: which motion is communicated to the needle lever by means of a connecting bar A
and an eccentric on the said shaft.
A5 is a looper for forming a chain stitch carried at the outer end of the main
'shaft; B, the presser foot bar, supported in the head of the machine at the outer
end of the gooseneck; and C, the needle bar connected by a link with the needle
lever;
D is the feed mechanism; M, the automatic. tension; N, an adjustable
washer tension; and O, the spool holder. Referring to Figures 1 to 11, P is the
vibrator; Q, the work guide attached to the presser foot F'; and R, R¹, R², the
plait guides. Referring to Figures 12 to 15, E is the needle used in connection'
with the wire guide G; F, a presser foot adapted to serve as a guide to the said
needle; and I, a hat guide to regulate the distance from the edge of the brim that
the wire is sewn.
The feed mechanism D is composed of a feed bar D¹, with an arm d, Figure 5,
projecting from the side thereof, and carrying at the outer end the feed surface a
feed rocker D hinged to the machine frame at d, and to the feed bar at d² an
eccentric. D³, Figure 3, on the main shaft, and a connecting rod D4 with its head
encircling the eccentric and jointed to an arm d³ of the rocker by a pin d²,
adjustable in a slot d in the said arm. In Figures 1 and 2 the connection of the
feed bar with the feed rocker and of the latter with the machine frame is made by
a single pin, while in Figure 12 two pins are shewn; the former construction is
preferred. The end of the feed bar is forked, and the two arms de, d, fit above
and below the head d of rod D. Between this head d8 and the inner surface of
the fork of feed bar a shoe D5 is interposed. This shoe is of general cylindrical
form, with a portion of the periphery in the rear cut away, so as to allow free play
of the connecting rod. It is flattened on the top and bottom, and is provided on
the bottom with a tongue dº. A portion in front (to the left in Figures 3 and 6)
is also cut away in order to clear part of the machine frame. In the arm d' is a
groove do adopted to receive the tongue do. The shoe being placed in position
over the head of the connecting rod, and the fork of the feed bar slipped in place
with the tongue in its lower arm, the shoe is retained in position without other
fastening.
The feed surface carried by the arm d of the feed bar is made adjustable
vertically by means of a screw d¹² and a slide d¹¹, the latter moveable in guides in
the end of the arm, and held in position by a screw and spring washer.
The automatic or intermittent tension M has for its object to keep the thread
taut until the needle, which is of ordinary or suitable construction, and therefore
not shown, has fairly entered the work, and then to release the thread to enable a
proper loop to be thrown and taken up by the looper A5. It consists of a spring m
and pad m¹, between which the thread is normally held, and a rod m² shown partly
in dotted lines, Figure 1, and connected with the needle lever. This rod at the
proper time pushes away the spring, releasing the thread. For the purpose of
protecting the spring it is enclosed between a back plate m³ and shield m4. The
upper part of the back plate is bent over and slotted, as shown at m5; to form a
thread guide. The pad m¹ is provided with a teat pin me which passes through the
back plate into the head of the machine, and serves as a steady pin.. The whole
tension device is secured by a single screw. The intermittent tension device,
although it is preferred to employ it, does not of itself constitute a part of this
Invention. The spool holder Ô consists of a rod o which is secured in an inclined
position by a suitable clamp, a stationary cupped disc o' on which the spool os
rests, and a revolving disc o² attached to the spindle of, turning in a recess in the
rod o, and held in position by pins extending into an annular recess in the upper
end of the said spindle. In order to prevent the thread from springing out over
the upper end of the spool, and falling around the rod o, an additional cupped
disc o which fits over the upper head of the spool, and which may be stationary or
capable of revolution, is employed. As shown, it is fixed at the end of a loose
sleeve encircling the rod. o...In using this spool holder, the spool remains
'

page_text: stationary, and the thread is drawn off over the edges of the disc o³, the latter
revolving whenever the tension of the thread becomes sufficient. In this manner
the danger is obviated of breaking the thread when the spool is nearly exhausted,
and the thread is bent rather sharply over the edge of the disc.
In threading the machine, the thread is led from the spool through the eye a² in
the needle lever between the washers of tension N, through the guide n, through
the eye in the upper part of the needle bar between the spring and pad of the
intermittent tension M, and through the eye in the guard n¹ to the needle. The
guard n² is formed of bent wire attached to the head of the machine, and its object
is to keep the crown of a hat out of contact with tho head of the machine while the
brim is being sewn.
The vibrator or presser foot lifter consists of a lever p which vibrates, and has
also a limited end wise movement on a pin p* attached to a counterbored boss p¹ at
the base of the head of the machine, and a small bent wire spring p² which acts
upon the upper arm of the lever p. At the lower end of a plunger located in the
head of the machine, and attached to the presser bar by the screw b is an adjustable
set screw b¹. Against the outer end of this screw the lower arm of the lever pacts
so as to lift the plunger, and with it the presser bar and foot when being in the
position shown in Figures 1 and 2; the upper arm is struck by the pin or pro-
jection as on the inner side of the needle lever.
By moving the lever p towards the back of the machine, it is no longer in
position to be struck by the projection a³, or to strike the screw b¹. The vibrator
can be thrown in or out of action while the machine is in operation, the bend in
the wire spring p² serving to retain the lever in whichever position it may be
placed. The spring b for holding down the presser bar is located in a hollow in
the head of the machine, and bears at its lower end against the plunger mentioned
above. Its force is adjusted by the screw b³.
The vibrator has been described as forming a part of the machine shewn, but.it
does not in itself form part of this Invention.
The work guide Q is provided with a tongue q which slides in a groove q¹ on
the under side of the pressure foot F', to which it is attached by means of the set
screw q. The latter passes through the slot q3 in the presser foot and screws into
a threaded opening in the guide Q. The adjustment is effected by means of the
device (see Figure 7) through the central opening in the head of which the
screw q² passes, and which is thus attached to the presser foot. On the under side
of the device is an eccentric pin or projection q' which fits in a small recess q³ in
the side of the slot 2³. By turning the handle of the device Q' it acts as a lever,
with the pin or projection q' as a fulcrum, and moves the guide Q in either
direction, so that it can be readily adjusted to the desired position. A suitable
washer is placed between the shoulder on the screw q² and the device Q'. The
upper surface of the tongue q bears against the bottom of the groove in the foot,
the thin edge of the work guide at the same time just bearing against the
underside of the presser foot to form the guide for the edge of the work. The
whole being so arranged that the greatest movement of the work guide never
uncovers the groove in the presser foot, a good surface for the feed to act against
in feeding the work is left. In the work guide for medium and heavy plait there
is a pin z', which is intended to hold the edge of the work so that it will enter
under the presser foot. This is omitted in the work guide for chip, and in place
thereof a small projection z³ is attached to the face of the work guide, which when
placed in position on the presser foot forms a continuation of the toe of the said
presser foot, and holds the edge of the work from curling up, and insures the
stitches being made at the distance from the edge to which the work guide is
adjusted.
The separator plate is indicated by z; it should always be as near to the needle
as possible in order to prevent the work from escaping under the work guide.
The plait guide R which guides the inner edge of the plait is held in position by
means of a screw passing through a slot in the guide and engaging in a screw

page_text: thread opening in the frame of the machine, and a tongue r which fits in a groove
in the guide. Under the head of the screw is a spring washer. The guide is
adjusted by means of a rack attached to or formed in one piece with the guide,
and a pinion carried by an arbor supported in a bearing on the machine frame
and provided with a milled head for turning by hand. The adjustment can in
this way be readily and quickly effected and with great nicety. The guide R¹ is
formed by a pin-which-passes-through-a-hole-in-the-flange-of-the-guide-R and--is-
retained in position by the same screw 7. By this arrangement the bent end of
the pin R which serves only to hold the plait against the flange of the plait
guide R always remains in the same position, while the position of the guide may
be varied to suit the various widths of plait, and no adjustment of the pin is
required. The plait can be readily inserted or removed by passing it edgewise
between the bent end of the pin R and the lower edge of the throat plate.
The direction in which the plait is brought from the reel prevents any tendency
of the plait to escape from its position. R2 is an adjustable guide for the outer
edge of the plait, so that the line of stitching may be closer to or farther from the
edge. It is carried by the guide R, and is of course adjustable with it relatively
to the stitch forming devices. In order to embrace plaits of different widths it is
adjustable relatively to the guide R, being held in any position in which it may be
placed by the pressure of the split end of the rod against the sides of the hole in
the guide R in which it is placed; S is a finger pivoted and attached to the flange
of the plait guide R by screw and nut. The purpose of the finger is to hold down
the inner edge of the plait.
The mechanism for sewing covered wire to hat brims and other articles is shown
in Figures 12-15, to which reference is now had. The needle E is formed straight
on one side, so that the point is in the same plane as the side (see Figure 14), and
it is provided with a channel for the thread to lie in (see Figure 15). The lower
part of the shank of the needle is cut away on this side. On the other side the
needle is rounded and beveled at the point in the usual way. No particular
description of the manner of making these needles is deemed necessary, as a manu-
facturer of sewing machine needles as now made will readily understand how to
proceed. The needle is secured to the needle bar in any ordinary or suitable
manner. The presser foot F is cut away at the toe (Figures 12 and 14) in order to
'permit the adjustment of the hat gauge I near the needle. At a point opposite the
path of the needle the side of the presser foot is beveled, as shown at f (Figure 14).
This forms the needle-guide, which, when the presser foot is let down upon
the work is in close proximity to and above the latter. The bend f avoids all
'danger of the needle points striking the foot.
The wire guide G consists of a grooved support fixed in any desired manner, as
by welding, to the cloth or throat plate A. The position of the wire guide with
reference to the path of the needle is shewn in Figure 14. It is placed so that the
point of the needle shall just pass by the side of the metal wire core of the covered
wire when placed therein. It is pierced with a needle hole (Figure 13) corre-
sponding to that in the cloth plate of the machines for the passage of the needle
and drawing up of the thread. The latch H is hinged or swiveled at h to the cloth
plate. The locking of the wire in its guide is effected by the thin extension
which projects over the groove in which it rests. At h² is a stationary pin against
which one end of the spring h³ bears, the said spring being contained in a hollow
in the latch H, and its other end bearing against the side thereof, as shown in
Figure 13. The latch is turned by means of the knob h, and when released it is
⚫ returned by the spring which holds it normally against the pin h³. The hat guage
is conformed in shape to the throat plate A, and is secured in position by a set
screw. It may be adjusted, if desired, towards the needle almost to the point of
contact. The operation will be readily understood in connection with the foregoing
description. The latch H is turned to expose the groove in the wire guide G, in
which the 'covered wire K is placed when the latch is allowed to return to its
normal position. The 'guage-I is adjusted so that the wire K is at the desired
I

page_text: Tom one edge. ne hat or other article is placed with its edge against
'the guage, and the presser foot is dropped. The machine being set in motion the
needle descends, is guided by the-beveled side ƒ of the presser foot and the portion
below the bevel, and passes through the cloth covering the wire close to the metallic
core. On account of the position of the point of the needle in the line of its side
and the position of the needle guide as a part of the presser foot the point is guided
until it begins to penetrate the cloth. This guide also, by its position just above
the work, overcomes any tendency to side movement which the needle may have
because of the position of the bevel. The loop is taken below in the ordinary way,
and as the needle continues to reciprocato the stitches are made as usual, the loop
being drawn up and the thread kept taut by the tension. The feed acts against
the wire and not against the hat brim only. The loop is taken by the hook upon
the side of the needle opposite to that in the plane of which the point of the needle
is placed.
:
While the needle bar is in its lowest position, and the needle is in the work, it is
often desirable to lift' the presser foot to adjust the work or for other reason.
With the ordinary form of presser foot no difficulty is experienced. With the
presser foot, against which the side of the needle is in contact, as it is when the
needle guide forms a part of the presser foot, this movement would be prevented
by the shank of the needle, and the lower part of the shank is therefore cut away,
as already explained.
In the foregoing description, what is considered the best method of carrying the
Invention. into effect has been described, but it is not intended to confine the
Invention strictly thereto, since it is obvious that various modifications may be
made without departing from the spirit of the Invention, and also that parts of the
Invention can be used without the others; for example, the hat guide used in the
wire attaching machine could be adjusted by rack and pinion like the inner edge
plait guide; the wire guide described could be used with an ordinary needle, and
the needle with its point in the plane of one of its sides, and the needle guide on
the presser foot could be used with other wire guides, or for any purpose to which
they may be adapted.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original,
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the hereinbefore in part
recited Letters Patent is,-
First. The combination in a feed mechanism with the eccentric connecting rod
with its head encircling the said eccentric, and feed bar with its end forked, of a
shoe interposed between the head of the said rod and the arms of the feed bar,
substantially as herein before described.
Secondly. The shoe, hereinbefore described, cylindrical on the interior, with top
and bottom flattened on the exterior, and provided with a tongue on one of the
said flat surfaces.
Thirdly. A spool holder comprising a stationary pin and disc for supporting the
spool in combination with a disc capable of revolution, over the edge of which the
thread is drawn, substantially as hereinbefore described.
Fourthly. The combination with the pin and two cupped discs for embracing
opposite ends of a spool of a supplementary revolving disc, substantially as
hereinbefore described.
Fifthly. The combination with a presser foot and work guide, connected therewith
by a tongue, and groove, and set screw, of an adjusting device or lever, substantially
as hereinbefore described.
Sixthly. The combination with a plait guide and devices, as indicated, for attaching
t to the machine frame of a rack and pinion for adjusting the position of the said
guide, substantially as herein before described.
Seventhly. The combination of the pin with its end bent downwards. of the

page_text: plait guide, set screw, and spring washer, and rack and pinion, substantially as
hereinbefore described.
Eighthly. The combination of an adjustable guide for the inner edge of the plait,
of an outer edge guide carried by the said first named guide, and adjustable with.
reference thereto, substantially as hereinbefore described.
Ninthly. The combination with an inner edge plait guide of a finger secured
thereto, and arranged to -hold-down-the-edge-of-the-plait, substantially-as--
hereinbefore described.
Tenthly. A sewing machine needle having the point in the plane of one of its
sides, and having the lower portion of the shank cut away on that side, substantially
as herein before described and illustrated in the accompanying Drawings.
Eleventhly. The combination with a needle having the point in the plane of the
long grooved side of a wire guide, arranged with its axis at a slight distance from
the path of the needle, and upon the side adjacent to that in the plane of which the
point is situate, substantially as hereinbefore described.
Twelfthly. The combination of a needle having its point in a plane forming one
side thereof, a needle guide in close proximity to and above the work, and a wire
guide, the said needle guide and wire guide being both located on that side of the
needle in the plane of which the point of the needle is situate, and operating
substantially as hereinbefore described.
Thirteenthly. The combination with a needle having the point in the plane of
one of its sides, and the presser bar and foot of a sewing machine, of a needle guide,
such as indicated, attached to or forming part of the presser foot, and arranged
opposite the side of the needle, in the plane of which, the point is situate, whereby
the point of the needle is guided until it begins to pierce the work, substantially
as herein before described.
Fourteenthly. The herein described wire guide, being a grooved support provided
with a locking latch, having a spring for closing it, and stops to limit its
movement, and pierced with a needle hole, substantially as hereinbefore described.
Fifteenthly. The combination with the needle and feed of a sewing machine, and
a wire guide having its axis in the plane of the feed movement or in a plane
parallel thereto, of the presser foot' bevelled at a point opposite the path of the
needle, and arranged to serve as a guide to the latter, substantially as hereinbefore
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have to this my Speci-
fication set my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of January, One thousand
eight hundred and eighty one.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.S.)