Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Jan., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 31st Oct., 1892-Accepted, 31st Dec., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Figured Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR, of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton,
in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturers, and JACOB WARBURTON, of
7 Hampden Street, Bolton aforesaid, Designer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of a certain class of
coloured figured fabrics used principally for bed quilts, toilet covers, curtains, table
cloths etc., and our chief object is to produce a raised figure, either coloured or
white, on a double cloth ground of any suitable weave, such ground being prefer-
ably figured and either coloured or a combination of white and colour.
In carrying our improvements into effect we employ two or more shuttles, one
shuttle or more than one shuttle, carrying coarse weft for the figure, and the other
shuttle or shuttles carrying weft for the ground, and we employ two warps which
may have either an equal or an unequal number of ends; one of these warps, the
ground warp, is composed of different coloured yarns, one end of one colour and one
end of another colour, or two ends of one colour and two ends of another colour
alternately, or other regular proportions, and is woven tight, the other warp, the
face warp is preferably all of one colour and is woven sufficiently slack to allow a
raised figure or pattern of the coarse weft to be formed.
In manufacturing our improved fabric we use a Jacquard machine to actuate the
ground warp, and preferably healds to actuate the face warp; but the latter might
be controlled by a Jacquard machine.
When weaving our improved fabric with six picks to the round and using only
two shuttles, the movements would be as follows:-
First pick. 1st heald up, Jacquard raised to form the under cloth of double
cloth ground, ground pick.
Second pick. 1st heald up, Jacquard raised to form the upper cloth of double
cloth ground, ground pick.
Third pick. 1st heald up, Jacquard raised to form the figure, coarse pick.
Fourth pick. 2nd heald up, Jacquard raised to form the figure, coarse pick.
Fifth pick. 2nd heald up, Jacquard raised to form the under cloth of double
cloth ground, ground pick.
Sixth pick. 2nd heald up, Jacquard raised to form the upper cloth of double
cloth ground, ground pick."
It will be noticed that in this shedding of six to the round there are four fine
picks to two coarse picks; but the cloth could be woven four to the round by
omitting the first and sixth or second and fifth picks; or the number of fine picks
might be increased if a finer ground were required.
In the above order of shedding it will be observed that at the ground picks both
colours of the ground warp are bound by the same pick either on the upper or on
the under cloth of the ground; but we might interweave each fine pick with one
colour only both on the upper and the under cloth; that is to say, at one ground
pick one colour is bound both on the under and upper cloth while at the next
ground pick the other colour is bound both on the under and upper cloth.
In this arrangement a twin or double Jacquard machine can be utilized thereby
saving a quantity of Jacquard cards.
It will also be seen that we state that we employ only two healds, and that we

page_text: thus produce a plain cloth figure; but by adding more healds the texture of the
figure may be varied.
Dated this 29th day of January 1892.
H. B. BARLOW,
Agent for Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Figured Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR, of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton,
in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON, of
7 Hampden Street, Bolton aforesaid, Designer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:—―
Our invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of a certain class of
coloured figured fabrics used principally for bed quilts, toilet covers, curtains, table
cloths etc., and our chief object is to produce a raised figure, either coloured or
white, on a double cloth ground of any suitable weave, such ground being preferably
figured and either coloured or a combination of white and colour.
In carrying our improvements into effect we employ two or more shuttles, one
shuttle or more than one shuttle carrying coarse weft for the figure, and the other
shuttle or shuttles carrying weft for the ground, and we employ two warps which
may have either an equal or an unequal number of ends; one of these warps, the
ground warp, is composed of different coloured yarns, one end of one colour and one
end of another colour, or two ends of one colour and two ends of another colour,
alternately, or other regular proportions, and is woven tight, the other warp, the
face warp is preferably all of one colour and is woven sufficiently slack to allow a
raised figure or pattern of the coarse weft to be formed.
In manufacturing our improved fabric we use a Jacquard machine to actuate the
ground warp, and preferably healds to actuate the face warp; but the latter might
be controlled by a Jacquard machine.
In the accompanying drawings-
Fig. 1 is a longitudinal section of our improved figured fabric in which the same
pick is interwoven with both colours in the upper or under cloth of the double
cloth ground, the raised figure pick being woven at the back of the cloth when not
required for figure.
Fig. 2 is a cross section of the cloth taken on the line A A, Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 is a cross section of the cloth taken on the line B B, Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is a longitudinal section of our improved figured fabric in which the same
pick is interwoven with only one of the colours in both the under and upper cloth
of the double cloth ground, the raised figure pick being treated as before.
Fig. 5 is a cross section taken on the line CC, Fig. 4.
Fig. 6 is a cross section taken on the line D D, Fig. 4.
Fig. 7 is a longitudinal section of our improved figured fabric in which the ground
is the same as that of Fig. 4 but the figure pick is woven in between the double
cloth ground, when not required for figure.
Fig. 8 is a cross section taken on the line E E, Fig. 7.
Fig. 9 is a cross section taken on the line F F, Fig. 7.
Throughout the several figures the same letter denotes the same warp or weft
threads, a and represent alternate threads of the ground warp, which are of one
colour, c and d the other threads of the ground warp, which are of another colour,
e and the threads of the binding warp, and H represent the coarse figure picks,
J and K two ground picks of one colour, L and M two ground picks of another
colour, or all the four picks J, K, L and M might be one colour.

page_text: When weaving our improved fabric with six picks to the round and using only
two shuttles, the movements would be as follows:-
First pick. 1st heald up, Jacquard raised to form the under cloth of double cloth
ground, ground pick.
Second pick. 1st heald up, Jacquard raised to form the upper cloth of double
cloth ground, ground pick.
Third pick. 1st heald up, Jacquard raised to form the figure, coarse pick.
Fourth pick. 2nd heald up, Jacquard raised to form the figure, coarse pick.
Fifth pick. 2nd heald up, Jacquard raised to form the under cloth of double
cloth ground, ground pick.
Sixth pick. 2nd heald up, Jacquard raised to form the upper cloth of double
cloth ground, ground pick.
It will be noticed that in this shedding of six to the round there are four fine
picks to two coarse picks; but the cloth could be woven four to the round by
omitting the first and sixth or second and fifth picks; or the number of fine picks
might be increased if a finer ground were required.
In the above order of shedding as illustrated by Figs. 1, 2 and 3, it will be
observed that at the ground picks both colours of the ground warp are bound by
the same pick either on the upper or on the under cloth of the ground; but as
illustrated by Figs. 4, 5 and 6 we may interweave each fine pick with one colour
only both on the upper and the under cloth; that is to say, at one ground pick one
colour is bound both on the under and upper cloth while at the next ground pick
the other colour is bound both on the under and upper cloth.
In either of the improved cloths Figs. 1, 2 and 3, or Figs. 4, 5 and 6 the figuring
weft when not required for figure may, as illustrated by Figs. 7, 8 and 9 be woven
in between the double cloth ground.
In this arrangement a twin or double Jacquard machine can be utilized thereby
saving a quantity of Jacquard cards.
It will also be seen that we state that we employ only two healds, and that we
thus produce a plain cloth figure; but by adding more healds the texture of the
figure may be varied.
We have already stated that more than two shuttles can be used, and it is obvious
that the number employed will be governed by the number of weft colours in the
fabric.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:
1. A woven fabric having a colour or white raised figure on a double cloth
ground of any suitable weave, such ground being preferably figured and either
coloured or a combination of white and colour all substantially as herein set forth.
2. The improved figured fabric woven substantially as herein described and as
illustrated by Figs. 1, 2 and 3.
3. The improved figured fabric woven substantially as herein described and as
illustrated by Figs. 4, 5 and 6.
4. The improved figured fabric woven substantially as herein described and as
illustrated by Figs. 7, 8 and 9.
Dated this 29th day of October 1892.
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
17 St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for Applicants.