IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Andrew Murray, of 37 Lamb's Conduit St.,'
Foundling, in the County of Middlesex, Boot Maker, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN
APPARATUS THEREFOR."
Sealed the 13th June 1865, and dated the 2nd February 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Andrew Murray at the
'Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 2nd
February 1865.
I, ANDREW MURRAY, of 37 Lamb's Conduit St., Foundling, in the County
of Middlesex, Boot Maker, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN APPARATUS
THEREFOR," to be as follows:-
There are several modes of uniting the soles and heels of boots and shoes
to the "uppers" now commonly adopted; the first is by sewing; the second
by pegging with wooden pegs; the third by screwing with metallic screws;
and the fourth mode, which has recently come into extensive use, is by
rivetting with metallic rivets. The process of hand-sewing produces the most
durable work, but is costly, and slow; wooden pegs are not applicable to the
finer sorts of work; while screws and rivets are open to many objections.

page_text: The rivetted boot has no "welt," is more rigid than the sewn boot, and more
liable to ripping; but yet this mode is largely adopted, owing to its cheapness.
My Invention consists, firstly, of making boots or shoes (with welts) partly
sewn and partly rivetted, and of uniting all the advantages of sewing with
nearly all the economy of rivetting. The fore part of my boot or shoe is
sewn, and the heel rivetted. To effect this improvement I employ two new
sorts of wooden lasts. The sort which I prefer is the ordinary wooden last, to
which I apply a metallic plate or heel piece, shaped to the heel. Rivetted
boots must be made on a metal last; while sewn boots can only be made on
a wooden last. By my mode the two principles are combined; the fore part
of the boot is sewn, while the heel is united by screws or rivets. This effects
a great saving of time, for the making of the heel in the ordinary way by
sewing is a slow process. My boot has all the parts most exposed to wear
sewn in the usual manner, and is as flexible and will last as long as any
wholly-sewn boot. In the other sort of last of my Invention I attach a metal
plate to a wood last from the heel, which it covers, down to the toe, leaving a
space on both sides from the "waste" for sewing in the ordinary manner, the
heel being attached by screws or rivets. From the use of these improved
lasts a saving is effected in the material and in finishing.
The second part of my Invention consists of cutting out welts by a stamp
or knife, instead of cutting them by hand. The stamp or knife fashioned to
the form of a welt is applied under pressure, and stamps out the welts.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Andrew Murray in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
18th July 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ANDREW
MURRAY, of Number 37A, Lambs Conduit Street, Foundling, in the County of
Middlesex, Boot Maker, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Second day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
him, the said Andrew Murray, Her special licence that he, the said Andrew
Murray, his executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as he, the
said Andrew Murray, his executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter

page_text: during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR," upon the
condition (amongst others) that he, the said Andrew Murray, his executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under his, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters.
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Andrew Murray, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
My Invention for improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes,
and apparatus therefor, consists of heel plates made of malleable iron, copper,
brass, steel, wrought or cast iron, zinc, or lead, to be nailed or screwed on
wooden lasts of all sizes, on which to make men's, women's, and children's
boots and shoes, and are constructed to assist in the production and making
of every description of boots and shoes; the plates to be laid, nailed, or
screwed on the lasts with three or four nails or screws, as shewn by the heel
plate Number 1 on the Plan or Drawing, which lays a little hollow on the
heel of the last, which is called the heel plate; also the circle plate made in
the shape of a horse shoe, extending all round the heel of the last, and is to
be laid, nailed, or screwed on the last, as shewn by Number 2, called the
"circle plate," on the said Plan or Drawing; also the solid heel plate, to lay
flat on the heel of the last, and nailed or screwed thereon, as shewn by
Number 3 on the said Plan or Drawing. These plates (except the circle
plate) may be extended on the last to the waist, as shewn by Number 4 on
the said Plan or Drawing; or it may be extended up the centre or middle of
the last to near the toe, leaving room to sew and work round the last, as
shewn by Number 5 on the said Plan or Drawing, at the option of the maker
or manufacturer. The circular pointed plate Number 6 on the Plan or
Drawing may be used or not. The wood of the last to be filed or cut down
to correspond with the plates, if necessary. The knives or fitters. for cutting
out the welts, as shewn by Number 7 on the said Plan or Drawing.; the beel
knife and breast slide of knife for cutting out heels, as shewn by Number 8
on the said Plan or Drawing; these plates are for the purpose of making

page_text: sewn boots and shoes, and particularly the fore parts, in connection with a
rivetted heel, and they will be better than nailed or pegged boots and shoes,
which are heavy, hard, and cloggy to the feet, and the nails frequently pene-
trate through the leather into the feet, and particularly in wet weather, and
the pegs draw out and loosen the sole. By this apparatus and method boots
and shoes of all sizes will be made much quicker, and they will be better for
wear. The leather or stuff is to be fitted (not on the last, as at present), and
will save the last from being cut, the heel of the last being protected by the
plate. By this method and apparatus boots and shoes will be perfectly smooth
inside, and the quick and rapid manner in which they will be made will
materially assist the man, and save time in making, and he will work with
less labour, greater ease, and be better paid. The leather to be well wetted
and stretched, and then rolled on a stout board covered with zinc, and then be
pressed with a roller of about thirty pounds weight, made for that purpose.
All stuff to be cut as if for rivetts. Welts and all other stuff must be well
fitted, the soles must be well cleaned, and thinned in the waist. The bits
taken from the waist of the soles to be saved for the maker to strengthen the
breast of the heel over the bottom filling, which is to be of one piece, and cut
to the shape. The soles must be all blocked on the lasts for the purpose, which
will stand upright to the man's left hand. The stiffenings must be thinned at
the bottom where they turn over the heel. The maker must use a broad
strap to press the soles effectually down. All makers are expected to stand
at a bench with holes padded for the purpose. One maker and one finisher
to two sewers. Pumps, one sewer.
These heel plates and shells are constructed to assist in the production of
every size and description of sewn boots and shoes for men, women, and
children, and will be a saving of forty per cent. in time; they will be thirty
per cent. cheaper, and ten per cent. better than as at present made.
In witness whereof, I, the said Andrew Murray, have hereunto set my
band and seal, this Thirteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
ANDREW MURRAY. (L.S.)