Method and Mechanism for Fabricating Bead-ribbon or Bead-cordon.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd May, 1890
Complete Specification Left, 7th Feb., 1891-Accepted, 28th Mar., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Method and Mechanism for Fabricating Bead-ribbon or Bead-cordon.
I, OSWALD FRITZSCH, of König Albert Strasse, in Annaberg, in the Kingdom
of Saxony, German Empire, authorized clerk of the firm A. L. Fritzsch, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The proceeding described and detailed in the following lines and by the
Figs. 1-21 is characterized by the manner of stitching a thread supplied with
beads upon one or several cordons laid side by side and of whatever cross-section,
so as to get parallel short rows of either cross-wise or sloping position to the
respective cordons forming so a bead-cordon or bead-ribbon of peculiar appearance,
which can be used especially for manufacturing lace-work and trimmings.
Bead-cordons made according the old fashion and by machines of old construction
show no regular rows of beads and no regular site of the beads among one another;
it is directly the essential contents of this invention, that every bead is in regular
site to all those beads, which surround it; they may be arranged singly or in rows
of two, three, four or more pieces.
The manufacture of such bead-ribbon and cordon takes place in a manner as
follows: A thread supplied with beads in usual manner is laid upon or around
the ground-cordons, and fastened by a stitch made through the middle of that
cordon. That thread with beads, however, though filled with them as usually is
not applied as usually, but prepared before in such kind, as to be alternately full
with beads and again empty of them, so that parts with beads and parts without
them change thoroughly regular, it being made possible thereby, when the machine
is at work, to have all those parts of the thread which are full with beads. laid in
the same direction and get a regular position of all the beads among one another,
whilst all those parts of the thread which are empty of beads, form the passage
from one row to the other one, or the junction between two consecutive rows.
The proceeding in its different phases the product manufactured and the
mechanism indispensably requisite, are represented in the accompanying drawings,
in which similar letters denote similar parts throughout the different figures..
Fig. 1 shows two ground-cordons lying side by side, and drawn in magnified
measure. One cordon only or more than two can be applied as well. The different..
executions of arranging the bead-thread in zigzag upon or around the ground-
cordons are clearly represented in Figs. 1-4, while Fig. 7 distinctly shows how
alternate parts of beads are laid half around the ground-corden to form the zigzag...
The rows of beads in consequence of their rigidity with regard to the yielding
cordon and to the thread bearing the beads form a nearly straight line. The thread
after having been laid half around the cordon, (Fig. 7) and kept in place by
catches u u', as described afterwards, is secured to the cordon at both sides by
means of a cross stitch through the middle of that cordon.
The direction of the machine-needle lead through the base and drawn in its
indicates the shuttle for
highest and deepest position, is to be seen in Fig. 5.
producing the entangling (a lock-stitch sewing machine is taken in this case). The
stretching of the ground-cordon or cordons, in case that several ones be applied, can
be effected in any customary manner, for instance as shown in Fig. 6; the cordon
first passes a small cylinder a', then it is laid around a larger cylinder a
and wound upon a third cylinder a³, which effectuates the stretching at the same
time.
Before I declare the working of the machine for fabricating this bead-cordon,
two important devices indispensably requisite with the proceeding must be explained,
they form a great part of the object of the invention.

page_text: These devices consist firstly in a guide moved to and fro for fastening the thread,
in connection with one or more relays for the same; in second place they consist in
a distributing-regulator for the bead-thread, allowing the beads to be conveyed to
the base alternately only, as described already before. Figs. 10-17 will make my
invention clear.
is an oscillating shaft moved by the machine and bearing the oscillating guide
for the thread; the motion of this guide needs not to be oscillating but can also be
made sliding or sledge-like. The thread with the beads 6' which are to be
fastened, passes through the oscillating guide. Two slit fork-like parts of sheet-
metal, clearly demonstrated by Fig. 9, are arranged beneath that guide and in
different height, the slits being only as wide as to allow a passage of the thread
itself, but keeping back the beads above these parts.
The bead-thread be secured to the ground-cordon a at the left side, and the
guide oscillates from position Fig. 10 to position Fig. 11; the beads which were
kept back before by the upper slit-plate 63, will now fall down upon the under slit-
plate at that time the catch u is pressed down, as seen in Fig. 12, and a part of
thread without beads is laid half around the ground-cordon. The catch u (represented
in side view and with its motive mechanism in Figs. 18 & 18ª) remains in the
pressed down position, whilst the guide begins its retrograde motion until arriving
at the central position, Fig. 13. Now it will be seen, that a defined number of
beads is separated from the other, according to the difference in height between the
two slit plates; those beads between the plates will become free as soon as the
retrograde motion of the guide to the left side proceeds, falling down and collecting
over and around the base cordon a; all remaining beads are carried again by the
upper slit-plate 63, as at first was the case.
A comparison between Figs. 10 and 14 will give a complete understanding of the
matter. When having arrived at the position Fig. 14, the retrograde motion of
the guide is not yet completed, and the left catch u is still below the bead-thread,
which latter from the catch u¹ up to the dividing or slit-plate 3 is entirely free of
beads; during the finish of that said retrograde-motion the catch u¹ is risen above
the bead-thread, beginning to move downwards instantly thereafter until it gets a
position like that of the right catch u (Fig. 15).
A stitch of the needle is the next thing following now and the needle having
made the stitch and gone back in its original position, and both the catches lift
again, a complete operation is finished; a thread without beads is laid from the
left to the right side upon or around the ground-cordon, and a thread with beads is
laid from the right to the left side, both threads being fastened by one stitch of the
needle.
It is clear, that the fastening of every thread-end can be accomplished not by one
stitch only but also by two, inasmuch as every bend of the thread can be sewed
on singly, requiring of course, the double number of stitches.
In consequence of the peculiar and appropriate construction of the transporting
mechanism, the stitches may be had as near as to permit putting bead by bead or
row by row covering thereby the connecting threads; in case these latter ones
are to be used like decoration, they must remain visible between the rows of
beads.
In order to regulate the number of beads, which are intended to form a row, the
space between the slit-plates of the dividing contrivance can be altered, according
to any requirement.
The machine for manufacturing such bead-cordons is represented in Figs. 8, 19,
20 and 21; it must be supposed, however, that the machine in question is explained
only to demonstrate the practicability of this proceeding; there is no claim for
any novelty or invention, concerning the machine itself, which is merely con-
struction.
The proceeding and proper contrivance for fabricating the bead-ribbon is entirely
independent from the manner of performance; the essential parts of that contrivance
described before and claimed to be invention, consist only in the application of the

page_text: guide for the bead-thread, oscillating above that thread, and in the two slit-plates
and two catches for dividing the number of beads, and putting the thread upon and
around the ground-cordon.
The following will explain the machine, which is represented in Figs. 8, 19, 20
and 21.
The bead-thread wound upon the roll n passes first the guide and afterwards
the two slit-plates 63 and 6. The oscillation of the guide 6 is effected by means of
the crank, this having its seat upon the same axis as the guide. A rod
sliding, in two bearings is connected at the left side with the crank k', the
gudgeon of that crank sliding in the slit at the end of the rod k*, and at the
right side moved by a gudgeon sliding in the curve of the disc-wheel k², causing
so an oscillating motion of the rod and the guide, in extent according to the shape
of curve. The disc-wheel is fastened to axis 8, this being set in rotary
motion by cog-wheel and principal shaft ko. Two oval disc-wheels k" and k¹²
secured to shaft serve to give two rods which are under spring-pressure an
alternate motion; having pushed the rods forward they go back again under the
influence of the springs, effectuating by this alternate motion the working of the
catches in a manner as will be detailed now.
The rod 13 being pushed forward by the eccentric acts firstly upon the
oblique surface, which is secured to the lever 1 (Fig. 18); in consequence of
this lever having a spring bearing, the lever is turned firstly in the direction of
the arrow
left hand, and the catch u held by this lever is moved forward over the
bead-thread this pre-motion having taken place and the rod A having left the
oblique surface, the rod k" acts now upon the oblique surface of the catch u
compelling it to oscillate in the direction of the arrow y, a downward motion
of the tip of catch u is caused and the catch advanced to the position shown
by Fig. 15.
For further explaining the machine I remark that an advance of wheel a
around which the ground-cordon is placed must happen after every stitch of the
needle.
As seen in the drawing it is performed by the excentric rod 1, the two-armed
lever being thrown into motion thereby; this lever bears a pawl 1 imparting a
periodic movement to the ratchet-wheel in well-known manner, and moving to the
so the axis which bears that wheel a*.
The manner of moving the shuttle in case that double-lock stitch be applied, is
indicated merely by shaft in the drawing. The method may be performed as
well with chain-stitch, that is to say, only with upper thread; it is moreover of no
importance at all, what kind of sewing-machine be chosen.
In case the thread bearing the beads ought not to be guided deeply enough by
the rotary motion, illustrated in Figs. 10-16, to make it possible, to be seized
easily by the catches, it ought to be led upon two inclined surfaces, right hand
and left hand of the ground-cordon, and operating downward, by means of which
contrivance such eventuality would be thoroughly avoided.
The regulation of the upper thread bearing the bead-threads is effected by means
of a metal rod furnished with a spring.
Dated this 23rd day of May 1890.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Method and Mechanism for Fabricating Bead-ribbon. or Bead-cordon.
I, OSWALD FRITZSCH, of König-Albert Strasse, in Annaberg, Kingdom of
Saxony, German Empire, authorized clerk of the firm A. L. Fritzsch, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following.
statement:-
The proceeding described and detailed in the following Specification and by the
Figures 1-21 is characterized by the manner of stitching a thread supplied with
beads upon one or several cordons laid side by side and of any cross-section so as to
get parallel short rows of either cross-wise or sloping position to the respective
cordons forming so a bead-ribbon or bead-cordon of peculiar appearance, which may
be used especially for manufacturing lace work and trimmings.
Bead-cordons made according to the old method and by machines of old
construction show no regular rows of beads and no regular site of the beads among
one another; it is directly the essential contents of this invention, that every bead is
in regular site to all those beads, which surround it; they may be arranged singly
or in rows of two, three, four or more pieces.
The manufacture of such bead-ribbon and cordon is effected in a manner as
follows
A thread supplied with beads in usual manner is laid upon or around the ground-
cordons and fastened by a stitch made through the middle of that cordon. That
thread with beads however, though filled with them as usually is not applied as
usually, but prepared before in such kind, as to be alternately full with beads and
again empty of them, so that parts with beads and parts without them change
thoroughly regular, it being made possible thereby, when the machine is at work, to
have all those parts of the thread, which are full with beads laid in the same
direction and get a regular position of all the beads among one another, whilst all
those parts of the thread, which are empty of beads, form the passage from one row
to the other one, or the junction between two consecutive rows.
The proceeding in its different phases, the product manufactured and the
mechanism indispensably requisite, are represented in the drawings, filed with
Provisional Specification, and in which similar letters denote similar parts throughout
the different views, and in which;
Figs. 1 to 4 show parts of cordons provided with beads in different executions.
Fig. 5 shows a cross-section of a cordon, and the thread with beads laid half
around it.
Fig. 6 shows the manner of stretching the cordon by rolls and weight.
Fig. 7 shows the same as Fig. 5 drawn to a larger scale.
Fig. 8 shows a side-view of the machine partly in elevation.
Fig. 9 shows the double-fork l³ 1ª.
Figs. 10-16 show different positions of the oscillating-lever 63, of the bead-
thread and of the needle.
Fig. 17 shows an upper-view of the oscillating-lever 62, of the double-fork 1³ 14
and of a part of the cordon.
Figs. 18 and 18* show the catch u and the mechanism for working it.
Fig. 19 shows an upper-view of the machine, without the roll n.
Fig. 20 is a cross-section of the machine, taken on the line ¹-y¹ of Fig. 8.
Fig. 21 is a side-view of the machine.
Fig. 1, Sheet 1, shows two ground-cordons lying side by side. One cordon only
or more than two may be applied likewise.
The different executions of arranging the bead-thread in zig-zag upon or around
the ground-cordons are clearly represented in Figs. 1 to 4, while Fig. 7 (Sheet 1)
distinctly shows how alternate parts of beads are laid half around the ground-cordon
to form the zig-zag. The rows of beads in consequence of their rigidity with regard

page_text: to the yielding cordon and to the thread bearing the beads form a nearly straight
line. The thread after having been laid half around the cordon (Fig. 7) and kept
in place by catches u u¹, as described afterwards, is secured to the cordon at both
sides by means of a cross stitch through the middle of that cordon.
.
The direction of the machine-needle lead through the base is to be seen in Fig. 5
(Sheet I). indicates the shuttle for producing the entangling (a lock-stitch
sewing machine is taken in this case). The stretching of the ground cordon or
cordons may be effected in any customary manner, for instance as shown in Fig. 6
(Sheet II) the cordon a first passes a small cylinder a', then it is laid around a
larger cylinder a³ and wound upon a third cylinder a³, which effectuates the
stretching by means of a weight.
:
Before I explain the manner of working of the machine for fabricating this
bead-cordon, two important devices indispensably requisite with the proceeding
must be explained. These devices consist first in a guide moved to and fro for
fastening the thread, in connection with one or more relays for the same; in second
place they consist in a distributing regulator for the bead-thread, allowing the beads
to be conveyed to the base alternately only, as described before; Figs. 10-17 will
render my invention clear. 61 is an oscillating shaft moved by the machine and
bearing the oscillating guide for the thread; the motion of this guide need not be
oscillating but can also be made sliding or sledge-like. The thread with the
beads p passes through the oscillating guide. Two arms provided with
forks clearly shown by Fig. 9 (Sheet 1) are secured to that guide and in
different height, the slits being only as wide as to allow a passage of the thread
itself, but keeping back the beads above these parts.
The bead-thread be secured to the ground-cordon a (Fig. 10), at the left side,
and the guide oscillate from position Fig. 10 to position Fig. 11; the beads which
were kept back before by the upper fork 63 will now fall down upon the under
fork-; at that time the catch is pressed down, as seen in Fig. 12, and a part of
thread without beads is laid half around the ground cordon. The catch u
(represented in side-view and with its motive mechanism in Fig. 18 and 18*) remains
in the pressed down position, whilst the guide begins its retrograde motion until
arriving at the central position (Fig. 13). Now it will be seen, that a defined
number of beads is separated from the other according to the difference in height
between the two forks 63 64; those beads between the plates will become free as
soon as the retrograde motion of the guide to the left side proceeds, falling down
and collecting over and around the base cordon a; all remaining beads are carried
again by the upper fork 63, as it was the case at first.
A comparison between Figs. 10 and 14 will give a complete understanding of the
matter. When having arrived at the position Fig. 14, the retrograde motion of the
guide is not yet completed, and the left catch u¹ is still below the bead-thread,
which latter from the catch u up to the dividing plate or fork 63 is entirely free of
beads during the finish of that said retrograde motion the catch u' is lifted above
the bead-thread beginning to move downwards instantly thereafter until it gets &
position like that of the right catch u (Fig. 15).
A stitch of the needle is the next thing following now and the needle having
made the stitch and gone back in its original position, and both the catches lifted
again, a complete operation is finished; a thread without beads is laid from the left
to the right side upon or around the ground-cordon, and a thread with beads is
laid from the right to the left side, both threads being fastened by one stitch of
the needle.
It is clear, that the fastening of every thread-end may be accomplished not by
one stitch only but also by two, inasmuch as every bend of the thread may be
sewed on singly, requiring of course the double number of stitches.
In order to regulate the number of beads, which are intended to form a row the
space between the forks 66 66 of the arms b b may be altered, according to any
requirement.
The machine for manufacturing such bead-cordons is represented in Figs. 8, 19,

page_text: 20 and 21; it must be supposed, however, that the machine in question is explained
only to demonstrate the practicability of this proceeding; there is no claim for any
novelty or invention, concerning the machine itself which is merely construction.
The proceeding and proper contrivance for fabricating the bead-ribbon is entirely
independent from the manner of performance; the essential parts of that contrivance
described before and claimed to be invented consists only in the application of the
guide for the bead-thread oscillating above the thread, and in the two forks 6° 6°
and two catches u ul for dividing the number of beads, and putting the thread-upon
and around the ground-cordon..
The following will explain the machine, which is represented in Figs. 8, 19, 20
and 21.
The bead-thread 6 wound upon the roll n passes first the guide 62 and afterwards
the two arms 3 and 6. The oscillation of the guide 62 is effected by means of the
crank k', this having its seat upon the same axis as the guide. A rod k sliding in
two bearings is connected at one side with the crank, the gudgeon ² of that
crank ¹, sliding in the slit at the end of the rod . The rod is moved by a
gudgeon sliding in the curve 4 of the disc-wheel A', causing so an alternate motion
of the rod and an oscillating motion of the guide, in extent according to the shape
of curve ko. The disc-wheel is fastened to axis this being set in rotary
motion by the conical wheels and by the principal shaft ko. Two oval disc-
wheels k¹ and secured to shaft 8 serve to set two rods 18 4 which are under the
pressure of springs, in alternate motion. The rods pushed forward go back again
under the influence of the springs effectuating by this alternate motion the working
of the catches in a manner as will be detailed now.
left
The rod pushed forward by the excentric " acts upon the oblique surface 4,
which is secured to the lever 1 (Fig. 18) in consequence of this lever having a
spring bearing, the lever 1 is turned first in the direction of the arrow
hand, and the catch u held by this lever is moved forward over the bead-thread ;
this pre-motion having taken place and the rod ¹³ having left the oblique
surface, the rod acts now upon the oblique surface 18 of the catch u
compelling it to oscillate in the direction of the arrow y, a downward motion of
the tip of catch u is caused and the catch advanced to the position shown by
Fig. 15.
For further explaining the machine I remark that an advance of wheel a
around which the ground-cordon is placed must be effected after every stitch of the
needle.
As seen in the drawing Fig. 8, such motion is performed by the connecting-rod l,
the two-armed lever being turned thereby, this lever bears a pawl P imparting
a periodic movement to the ratchet-wheel in well-known manner, and moving so
the axis which bears said wheel a³.
The manner of moving the shuttle in case that double-lock stitch be applied, is
indicated merely by shaft 16 in the drawing. The method may be performed also
with chain-stitch, that is to say, only with upper thread; it is moreover of.no
importance at all, what kind of sewing-machine be chosen.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, what I claim is :-
1. A method of manufacturing pearl-ribbons, consisting in applying a thread,
alternately full of pearls and again empty of them, to a cordon or ribbon, or to
several parallel cordons in a zig-zag, so as to get parallel series of pearls by those
parts of the thread which are filled with pearls, and to connect said parallel series
of pearls by those parts of the thread which are empty of pearls, as described.
2. A method of manufacturing pearl-ribbon, consisting in applying a thread,
alternately full of pearls and again empty of them in equal distances, to a cordon or
ribbon, or to several parallel cordons in a zig-zag, so as to get parallel series of
pearls by those parts of the thread which are filled with pearls and to connect said

page_text: parallel series of pearls by those parts of the threads, which are empty of pearls, said
empty parts being also of parallel position; the whole thread being fixed to the
cordon or cordons by stitches through or across the latter, as described.
Dated this 7th day of February 1891.
OSWALD FRITZSCH.
By Graham & Graham,
Agents for Applicant.