Improvements in the Manufacture and Application or Use of what are known as * Gussets" in Hosiery Drawers, Pants, Pantaletts, Sleeves of Vests, Jerseys, Under-shirts, and similar Articles.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Aug., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 22nd May, 1889-Accepted, 22nd June, 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture and Application or Use of what
are known as *
Gussets" in Hosiery Drawers, Pants, Pantaletts,
Sleeves of Vests, Jerseys, Under-shirts, and similar Articles.
I ARTHUR PAGET, Mechanical Engineer of Radmoor, Loughborough in the
County of Leicester do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
In Hosiery pants or drawers of most kinds (as at presont manufactured) at that
part of these goods where the drawers come under and between the legs of the
wearer (which part of the drawers is usually called "the fork ") there is usually a
gussett" which is a square piece of hosiery-fabric attached to the seams of the
legs" and " sent of the drawers.
(6
66
"
22
"
27
This "gussett" is usually made of ordinary knitted hosiery fabric with "selvedges
on its two sides and with its two ends made with the rows of loops "cleared
as will
be well understood by those conversant with the hosiery trade. This "gussett" is
attached to the legs and seat of the drawers by seaming the two selvedged sides of
the gassett to the contiguous seans and by
the row of "cleared'
pricking in
loops at the two ends of the gussett to the two contiguous seams of the pants.
The "pricking in" of the ends is done (as will be well understood by those
conversant with the trade) by passing a needle and thread carefully through each
loop of the "cloared" end of the fabric of the gussett in regular succession and so
attaching each loop of the gussett to the corresponding loop of the contiguous seam
of the drawers and it will be easily seen that this is an operation requiring much
skill and care to do it exactly as if any other loop than the proper one in succession
should be taken by the operator the work will be unsound and come to pieces and if
one of these "pricked in" loops should be broken in wear or in washing what is
called a ladder" will be made and the mending of this is a difficult and tedious
operation.
Now by my improved method of making and applying gussetts many of these
difficulties of manufacture and defects of construction in the goods are avoided.
I make the gussett of fashioned or shaped hosiery-fabric fashioned or shaped so as
to be of a square or
"diamond" shape by being fashioned at both ends so as to
come to a point or nearly so, and so to have a proper selvedge" on all four sides
and no "
cleared" loops (or loose loops) except one or two at each of the two ends or
corners, which two or four loops can be readily "fastened off" by drawing the end of
the yarn of which the gussett is made through them in the ordinary well known
manner.
(:
I attach these gussetts to the fork of the drawers by seaming the selvedges of the
gussetts to the contiguous seams of the legs and soat or back of the drawers.
In some cases I prefer to make these gussetts so " fashioned" so that they are
narrowed from the widest part of the square or diamond, towards both ends of the
diamond or square so that all the fashioning is done by narrowing instead of being
done by "widening" one end of the diamond and "narrowing" the other end.
"
In some cases where it is desirable that the gussetts should be of an open fabric
(to allow air to pass through) I make these fashioned gussetts on a hosiery knitting
machine with every alternate needle removed and every alternate coverer or
tickler" also removed and thus the gussett is made of a very open fabric especially
bermeable to the air and yet of a sound and durable fabric which can be well
nd securely seamed into its proper place in the pant, drawer, vest or similar
rticle

page_text: It will be self evident that the gussetts as herein before described particularly for
drawers can be made and applied or used in a similar manner with pants, pantaletts,
sleeves of vests, jerseys, under-shirts and all similar articles in which similar gussetts
are used for a similar purpose.
Dated this 23rd day of Angust 1888
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture and Application or Use of what
are known as "Gussets" in Hosiery Drawers, Pants, Pantaletts,
Sleeves of Vests, Jerseys, Under-shirts, and similar Articles.
1 ARTHUR PAGET Mechanical Engineer of Radmoor Loughborough in the
County of Leicester do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
In Hosiery pants or drawers of most kinds (as at present manufactured) at that
part of these goods where the drawers come under and between the legs of the
wearer (which part of the drawers is usually called the "fork") there is usually a
gussett" which is a square piece of hosiery-fabric attached to the seams of the
legs" and "seat" of the drawers.
"
66
"
This gussett "is usually made of ordinary knitted hosiery fabric with "selvedges
on its two sides and with its two ends made with the rows of loops " cleared"
as will
be well understood by those conversant with the hosiery trade. This "gussett" is
attached to the legs and seat of the drawers by seaming the two selvedged sides of
the gussett to the contiguous seams and by "pricking in "the row of "cleared"
loops at the two ends of the gussett to the two contiguous seams of the pants.
The ፡፡
pricking in" of the cuds is done (as will be well understood by those
conversant with the trade) by passing a needle and thread carefully through each
loop of the "cleared" end of the fabric of the gussett in regular succession and so
attaching each loop of the gussett to the corresponding loop of the contiguous seam
of the drawers and it will be easily seen that this is an operation requiring much
skill and care to do it exactly, as if any other loop than the proper one in succession
should be taken by the operator the work will be unsound and come to pieces and if
one of these "pricked in loops should be broken in wear or in washing what is
called a "ladder" will be made and the mending of this is a difficult and tedious
operation.
Now by my improved method of making and applying gussetts many of these
difficulties of manufacture and defects of construction in the goods are avoided I
make the gussett of fashioned or shaped hosiery-fabric fashioned or shaped so as to
be of a square or "diamond" shape by being fashioned at both ends so as to come to
a point or nearly so, and so to have a proper "selvedge" on all four sides and no
"cleared" loops (or loose loops) except one or two at each of the two ends or
corners, which two or four loops can be readily "fastened off" by drawing the end
of the yarn of which the gussett is made through them in the ordinary well known
manner.
"
I attach these gussetts to the fork of the drawers by seaming the selvedges of the
gussetts to the contiguous seams of the legs and seat or back of the drawers. In
some cases I prefer to make these gussetts so fashioned that they are narrowed
Irom the widest part of the square or diamond towards hoth ends of the diamond or
square so that all the fashioning is done by narrowing instead of being done by
(widening" one end of the diamond and "narrowing" the other end.
"
In some cases where it is desirable that the gussetts should be of an open fabric
(to allow air to pass through) I make these fashioned gussetts on a hosiery-knitting
machine with every alternate needle removed and every alternate
"
coverer 01

page_text: "tickler" also removed and thus the gussett is made of a very open fabric especially
permeable to the air and yet of a sound and durable fabric which can be well and
securely seamed into its proper place in the pant, drawers, vest or similar article.
It will be self evident that the gussetts as hereinbefore described, particularly for
drawers, can be made and applied or used in a similar manner with pants pantaletts,
sleeves of vests, jerseys, under-shirts and all similar articles in which similar
gussetts are used for a similar purpose.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I desire it to be understood that I
do not confine myself to the exact details herein set forth as such may be in some
ways varied and modified without departing from the principle thereof but what I
claim as my Improvements in the manufacture and application or use of what are
Gussetts" in Hosiery-drawers, Pants, Pantaletts, sleeves of vests, Jerseys,
under-shirts, and similar articles" are:-
known as
:
First. "Gussetts" of fashioned or shaped hosiery-fabric fashioned or shaped so as
to be of a square or "diamond" shape by being fashioned at both ends so as to
come to a point or nearly 30, and so to have a proper "selvedge" on all four sides
and no
"cleared" loops (or loose loops) except one or two at each of the two ends
or corners, which two or four loops can be readily "fastened off by drawing the
end of the yarn of which the gussett is made through them in the ordinary well
known manner substantially as herein before described.
"
" one end
Second. "Gussetts" "fashioned" so that they are narrowed from the widest part
of the square or diamond towards both ends of the diamond or square so that all
the fashioning is done by narrowing instead of being done by "widening
of the diamond and "narrowing the other end, substantially as hereinbefore
described.
Third. "Gussetts " "fashioned"
"
وو
on a hosiery knitting machine with every
alternate needle removed and every alternate coverer or "tickler" also removed
and thus the Gussett is made of a very open fabric especially permeable to the air
and yet of a sound and durable fabric which can be well and securely seamed into
its proper place in the pant, drawer, vest or similar article, substantially as herein
before described.
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