Machinery for a New and Improved Mode of Manufacturing Silk, Cotton, Woollen, and Linen Fabrics
Year: 1839

page_text: MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION.
SPECIFICATION.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JAMES
TEMPLETON, Manufacturer, in Paisley, and WILLIAM QUIGLAY, Weaver, in
Paisley, send greeting.
WHEREAS we did, by Petition, represent unto Her most Excel-
lent Majesty Queen Victoria, that we had invented "Machinery for a New
and Improved Mode of Manufacturing Silk, Cotton, Woollen, and Linen
Fabrics;" and Her said Majesty being willing to give encouragement to all
arts and inventions which might be for the public good, was graciously
pleased to issue Her Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain,
bearing date at Westminster, the Twenty-fifth day of July, in the third year
of Her Majesty's reign, and the title of which Letters Patent has in terms of
the Act Fifth and Sixth William Fourth, entitled "An Act to amend the Law
touching Letters Patent for Inventions," been altered to "AN IMPROVED MODE
OF MANUFACTURING SILK, COTTON, WOOLLEN, AND LINEN FABRICS;" by which
Letters Patent Her Majesty did; for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto us; the said Jamės Templeton and William Quiglay, our

page_text: executors, administrators, and assigns, Her especial license, full power and
authority, that we, the said James Templeton and William Quiglay, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, and every of them, by ourselves or
themselves, or by our or their deputy or deputies, servants, or agents, or such
others as we, the said James Templeton and William Quiglay, our executors,
administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times thereafter during the term of years therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend our said
Invention within that part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland called England, Her Majesty's Dominion of Wales and Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, in such manner as to us, the said James Templeton
and William Quiglay, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or any of
them, should in their discretion seem meet, and that we, the said James
Templeton and William Quiglay, our executors, administrators, and assigns,
should and might lawfully have and enjoy the whole profit, benefit, commodity,
and advantage from time to time coming, growing, accruing, and arising by
reason of the said Invention for and during the term of fourteen years from
the date of the said Letters Patent; in which Letters Patent there is contained
a proviso obliging us, the said James Templeton and William Quiglay, by
an instrument in writing under our hands and seals, or under the hand and
seal of one of us, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of our said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, and to cause the
same to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully
and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
James Templeton and William Quiglay, do hereby declare that the nature of
our said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are
described and ascertained in manner following, that is to say :-
The nature of the said Invention consists in weaving fabrics of silk, cotton,
woollen, linen, or other fibrous materials, which are to be cut into stripes and
used as weft, somewhat in the manner of chenille weft, but with this difference,
that the two edges of the stripe shall incline more toward each other, and then
weaving such stripes on a ground, so that all the fur or cut edges of the stripes
may be brought to the one side or surface of the fabric, while the other side is
plain; and which Invention is applicable to the manufacture of carpets, rugs,
shawls, mats, covers of stools, chairs, or tables, tapestry, or any cloth or fabric

page_text: requiring to be raised so as to have the appearance of velvet, fur, or plush.
And we declare that the manner in which our Invention is to be performed is
as follows:-
A texture or fabric of silk, cotton, woollen, linen, or of a mixture of
two or more of these materials, has first to be wove, having the warp spaced
or set in the reed at certain equal distances from each other, leaving an empty
space in the reed between, viz, one, two, or more splits of the reed are filled
with the warp threads, and then a space of the reed is left empty (equal to
double the length of the fur required); one, two, or more splits of the reed
are again filled with warp threads, then another empty space, as above
described, and so on, repeating until the full number of the stripes required is
completed. The warp being thus spaced and arranged in the loom, the weft
or woof is then thrown in so as to form either a one coloured or varied coloured
surface, and the warp operates on the weft by a combination of what is
technically called by weavers and manufacturers, gauze or cross weaving, that
is, the threads of warp, instead of being left parallel to each other, as in
common weaving, are crossed over each other by each tread on the treddles or
web mountings, and the weft, when thrown in, and which is to form the fur or
pile, intersects the warp and acquires the property of its edges being inclined,
or having a tendency to come together in consequence of the cross weaving
which the warp has received, and on this web being cut into stripes through
the vacant spaces already described the weft, or lateral fibres of both sides
of each stripe, are all thrown up on one side, and brought close together. The
process is somewhat similar to that followed in making chain weft, but with
this difference, that the fur or pile, that is to say, the lateral fibres of both
sides of each stripe, when cut, are all brought upon one side and into close
compact, instead of projecting from all sides of the warp or body thread, as in
the case of chenille weft. The same effect may be produced by various
kinds of cross weaving, which it is unnecessary for us here to describe.
The Drawings in the margin hereof represent two modes of our cross
weaving, exhibiting the crossings of the warp and intersections of the weft.
In number one are two splitfuls of Turkey gauze of three threads in
the split; these two splitfuls being separated by one empty split or otherwise.
Three shots of weft or fur are uncut, and six shots cut in the centre. The
Figure exhibits the effect which the crossing of the warp threads have upon-
the fur in causing both sides of the weft, when cut, to incline towards each
other, leaving the warp threads to serve as a back bone or back band to the
lateral threads or fibres.

page_text: Figure Second exhibits two crossing threads turning round a cord or dead.
thread, which is accomplished with bead lams, a term long known among
weavers, and which the Figure explains. This Figure also exhibits in some,
degree the appearance the fur has when woven, and the effect the crossings
produce after it has been cut. The pattern intended to be produced is drawn
or copied on design paper formed with as many horizontal lines as we intend,
there shall be shots of the prepared fur weft, previously described, in the fabric
to be afterwards made; after these lines of the design paper are cut asunder
into stripes and numbered, the weaver then enters one of these lines,
beginning with number one, through the reed of the loom, and commences to
weave the colours of weft in the exact order in which the colours are painted-
on these pieces of paper. As some patterns are very extensive the cloth
requires to be cut into pieces, therefore to guide the weaver in the operation
of weaving the prepared fur we number the pieces as follows:-At the
beginning of each piece the weaver works on the number by throwing in a
shot or shots of white weft on a black ground to denote the units, blue
weft for five, red weft for ten, and yellow for fifty, and so on. The number
of the pattern is woven with different colours in a similar manner; by
these means it is always easy to ascertain to what pattern and to what part
of a pattern each piece of fur weft belongs. As a number of stripes of the
fur are woven in each breadth of the web, each stripe of fur will be a repeat
of the pattern or figure intended; therefore, when we wish to make ten rugs,
or articles of a full pattern, we have ten stripes of the fur in the breadth of the
fur loom. In cutting into stripes the wove fur we use scissors worked with
hand or the usual spiral cutting machine, or a horizontal cylinder with circular
knives set at suitable distances on it, the knives being divided by washers of
wood or metal. In the middle of the washer is a groove, in which the back-
bone of the fur stripe lies, and guides it while passing over the cylinder and
between the knives, which are cutting the wove fur into stripes. Before the
wove fur comes to the cylinder we have also a guide made of a wooden or
metal roller with grooves to receive the backbone of the fur at same distances
as the groove in the washer, this roller guiding the fur on to the knives; and
also after the fur has passed over the cylinder, and is cut by the knives (which,
with the cylinder, are made to revolve rapidly on a centre, the fur being made
to pass over with a counter movement, but much slower), we have another
roller with grooves rather deeper, which assist in bringing up the lateral fibres
on each side of the cut stripes closely towards each other. We also, particu-
larly in cases where the fur is short, make the stripes of fur to pass over one

page_text: For more additional rollers, which revolve in troughs containing dissolved gum
or other glutinous matter, and as the roller takes up part of the gum and
imparts it to the backbone of the fur, this, when dry, serves to bind it securely.
The stripes of fur are next rewoven on the surface of any suitable ground-
work. The web or ground warp is prepared with an extra warp, which may
be termed the catcher warp. A shade is formed of both warps for the ground
shot, and a shade of the catcher warp only is made to receive the fur stripe
or weft; there being fewer threads of the catcher warp than the ground warp,
less resistance is thereby offered in bringing the fur of the weft to the surface.
In some cases we use a portion of the ground warp itself for fixing the fur
upon the surface, using as many of the ground warp threads as may be deemed
necessary for the purpose. The weaver having thrown in a shot of the fur sets it
in its proper place with his hand or otherwise, and then with a brush or comb,
or other instrument, raises all the fibres of the fur from the catcher warp, or
that part of the ground warp which is to fix it on the fabric, and drives it
firmly up with the lay or other instrument. We then proceed to throw in as
many ground shots as are deemed necessary to form the ground below, repeating
the operation of setting or weaving in the fur with the necessary number of
shots to form the ground, the fur being set at such distances as may have been
calculated on for the purpose. These operations are done by the heddles or
mountings commonly used in weaving looms.
And having now particularly described the nature of our said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, we declare, with reference
to the mode of weaving herein-before described, that we do not claim as new
the machinery or looms with which the fabrics are produced; nor do we claim
as new the systematic arrangement of colours, and weaving them on a gauze
web, and cutting said web up into stripes, and reweaving the threads twined
or untwined, on being so cut up, on another warp so as to form a regular
pattern. We declare also that we do not claim the Invention of the circular
cutting machine herein-before described, but that we have mentioned it as
what we deem the best among the various modes of dividing or cutting the fur
weft into stripes which may be adopted; and we declare that what we claim
as new or improved and of our Invention is, the mode herein-before described
of producing or preparing stripes of silk, cotton, woollen, or linen, or of a
mixture of any two or more of these materials, in such manner that the weft
or lateral fibres of both cut edges of each stripe are all brought up on one
side and into close compact with each other, and the reweaving of such stripes,
with the whole fur or pile uppermost, into the surfaces of carpets, rugs, shawls,

page_text: or other similar articles, at the same time that a groundwork or platform is
woven for the same.
In witness whereof, we, the said James Templeton and William Quiglay,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Fifth day of December,
One thousand eight hundred and thirty-nine years.
Thomas Worton, Book-keeper to Messieurs Mair, Son, and Company, of
Number 60, Friday Street, in the City of London, Merchants, maketh oath
and saith, that he is well acquainted with the manner and character of the
handwriting of William Bissland, Esquire, a Justice of the Peace at Paisley,
in the County of Renfrew, within that part of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland called Scotland. And this Deponent further saith, that
the name or signature "Wm. Bissland," with the addition "J.P." set, sub-
scribed, or written upon, or endorsed on the Specification of James
Templeton and William Quiglay, marked A, hereunto annexed, and dated the

page_text: Fifth day of December now last past, and purporting to be executed by
James Templeton and William Quiglay, both of Paisley, whereby it is stated
that the said Specification was acknowledged by the said James Templeton
and William Quiglay, before the said William Bissland, on the said Fifth day
of December, at Paisley aforesaid, is of the proper handwriting of the said
William Bissland; and that the said William Bissland, at the time of setting
or subscribing his name on the said Specification in manner above stated, was
and now is (to the best of the knowledge and belief of this Deponent) one
of the Justices of the Peace acting in and for that part of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland called Scotland.

page_text: En the Matter of a Patent granted to JAMES TEMPLETON, Manu-
facturer, in Paisley, and WILLIAM QUIGLAY, Weaver, in Paisley, for
their Invention of "MACHINERY FOR A NEW AND IMPROVED MODE OF
MANUFACTURING SILK, COTTON, WOOLLEN, AND LINEN FABRICS,". bearing
date at Westminster, the Twenty-fifth day of July, in the year One
thousand eight hundred and thirty-nine.
MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION of the Title of the said Patent
proposed to be entered by James Templeton and William Quiglay with
the Clerk of the Patents of England, pursuant to an Act passed in the
fifth and sixth year of His late Majesty's reign, intituled "An Act to
amend the Laws touching Letters Patent for Inventions."
WE, the said James Templeton and William Quiglay, are advised, and
elieve that we cannot specify our Invention under the Title of our said
atent; we therefore alter the Title from "Machinery for a Now and Improved
Iode of Manufacturing Silk, Cotton, Woollen, and Linen Fabrics," to
An Improved Mode of Manufacturing Silk, Cotton, Woollen, and Linen
abrics."
In witness whereof, we, the said James Templeton and William Quiglay,
have hereunto set our hands, this Thirty-first day of October, One
thousand eight hundred and thirty-nine.

page_text: Invention, for which Letters Patent were duly granted to them under the
Great Seal, dated the Twenty-fifth day of July, in the year One thousand
eigh hundred and thirty-nine, and on considering the said application I
directed them to advertise the said Alteration in two public newspapers,
and such advertisements have been duly made in the said public newspapers,
and no opposition having been offered to the said application, I have accord-
ingly granted leave to the said James Templeton and, William Quiglay to
file the said Memorandum of Alteration pursuant to the Statute passed in
the sixth year of the reign of His late Majesty, entitled "An Act to amend
the Law touching Letters Patent for Inventions," dated this Ninth day of
November, One thousand eight hundred and thirty-nine.

page_text: And
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Affidavit of Robert Johnson,
the Instrument aforesaid was inrolled word for word as above written.
also the Instrument aforesaid was stamped according to the tenor of the
Statute made in the fifty-fifth year of the reign of His late Majesty King
George the Third.
Inrolled the Thirteenth day of December, One thousand eight hundred
and thirty-nine.