Braids, Plaits, and Trimmings.
Year: 1885

page_text: Braids, Plaits, and Trimmings.
Cul
I, ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of the firm of A. M. and Wm. Clark, of
53; Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Fellow of the Institute of Patent
Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention a communication to me
from abroad by Paul Depoully and Charles Depoully and The Société C Garnier et.
Francisque Voland all of Paris, France, to be as follows: 10 • * 1 2
J
:
The object of this invention is to obtain new and improved articles termed
waved or crimpled yarn or crimpled thread.
In order to obtain these articles the yarns or threads are submitted to the
influence of certain chemical agents by which process they become partially
contracted to such an extent that their length may be considerably decreased or
diminished; the invention consisting in applying to yarns and threads the
contracting process described in a previous Patent No 8642 of 1884.
By the words "yarns" or "threads" is meant not only simple or twisted yarns
or threads but also any assemblage or combination of yarns or threads different
from fabrics or cloth such as tresses, plaitings, strands, laces, chenille, braids, fringes
and generally all the articles obtained in spinning and trimming manufactures.
The yarns or threads to be operated upon may be of two kinds
1st. Those made of two different materials one vegetable and the other animal.
2nd. Those made of a single material only.
In the first case the yarn or thread made for instance of cotton and silk, cotton
and wool or cotton silk and wool is submitted to the action of concentrated
alkaline solutions. By this process the cotton yarn or thread becomes contracted
by the chemical action while the silk yarn or thread remains unaltered. This
contraction imparts to the whole thread a special waved appearance as the silk
yarns must become buckled or coiled to adapt themselves to the reduced length of
the cotton thread.
It is easily understood that any number of vegetable and animal yarns or threads
of any kind may be employed in combination.

page_text: When the thread is made entirely of vegetable materials such as cotton or cotton
mixed with other vegetable fibres one or more of the component yarns or fibres
must be covered with a reserve resisting the alkaline solution or the substance acting
as a reserve may be applied to any parts of the yarns when twisted together to
compose the thread.
In this case that part of the thread only which has not been protected by the
reserve will be subject to contraction while the protected portions will retain their
original length so that any ornamental appearance may be obtained by such a
combination.
The reserve which will be for instance a gummy substance may also be used in
the treatment of mixed yarns or threads composed both of vegetable and animal
material.
The chemical contracting agents which it is preferred to employ are concentrated
alkaline solutions such as caustic soda lyes at from 15° to 36° B according to the
degree of contraction to be obtained but there may also be employed as contracting
agents concentrated acids for instance sulphuric acid from 50° to 66° Baume.
The simplest means to be employed for carrying out the process is to dip the
yarns or threads, in the form of loose hanks, into the contracting solution or bath.
These baths should be preferably maintained at a low temperature about 0° C or 32°
Fab. At such a temperature the contraction takes place easily without injuring the
fibres and the operation may be more slowly and conveniently carried on.
The yarns or threads when taken out from the contracting bath, must be
thoroughly washed and passed through a neutralizing bath. When the contracting
agents employed are alkaline solutions, the neutralizing bath to be employed is an
acid solution and vice versa.
The above is the simplest mode of operation but any other method for the
treatment of the yarns or threads may also be employed. For instance, the yarns
or threads may be passed individually through the contracting and neutralizing
baths or they may be dipped into these baths in the form of bundles. In the
latter case a vacuum at the surface of the liquid bath would be advantageously used
for the purpose of producing a thorough penetration of the solution into the
'bundles of threads or yarns.
The yarns or threads obtained by this invention may be employed either for
weaving purposes or for embroidering trimming or any ornamental purpose and
may be employed either alone or in combination with ordinary yarns threads or
fabrics.

page_text: The Manufacture of Waved or Crimpled Yarns or Threads,
Braids, Plaits, and Trimmings.
I, ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of the firm of A. M. and Wm. Clark, of
53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Fellow of the Institute of
Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention (a communication
to me from abroad by Paul Depoully and Charles Depoully and The Société
C. Garnier et Francisque Voland all of Paris France) and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :—
The object of this Invention is to obtain new and improved articles termed
waved or crimpled yarn or crimpled thread. In order to obtain these articles the
yarns or threads are submitted to the influence of certain chemical agents by
which process they become partially contracted to such an extent that their length
may be considerably decreased or diminished; the Invention consisting in applying
to yarns and threads the contracting process described in a previous patent
No 8642 of 1884. By the words "yarns or "threads" I mean not only simple
or twisted yarns or threads, but also any assemblage or combination of yarns or
threads different from fabrics or cloth, such as tresses, plaitings, strands, laces,
chenille, braids, fringes, and generally all the articles obtained in spinning and
trimming manufactures.
"
The yarns or threads to be operated upon may be of two kinds ;-
1st Those made of two different materials, one vegetable and the other animal.
2nd Those made of a single material only. In the first case,
I submit the yarn
or thread, made for instance, of cotton and silk, cotton and wool, or cotton, silk,
and wool, to the action of concentrated alkaline solutions. By this process the
cotton yarn or thread becomes contracted by the chemical action, while the silk
yarn or thread remains unaltered. This contraction imparts to the whole thread
a special waved appearance as the silk yarns must become buckled or coiled to
adapt themselves to the reduced length of the cotton thread. It is easily under-
stood that any number of vegetable and animal yarns or threads of any kind may
be employed in combination.
When the thread is made entirely of vegetable materials, such as cotton, or
cotton mixed with other vegetable fibres, one or more of the component yarns or
fibres must be covered with a reserve capable of resisting the alkaline solution; or
the substance acting as a reserve may be applied to any parts of the yarns when
twisted together to compose the thread. In this case, that part of the thread only
which has not been protected by the reserve will be subject to contraction while
the protected portions will retain their original length, so that any ornamental
appearance may be obtained by such a combination. The reserve, which will be,
for instance, a gummy substance, may also be used in the treatment of mixed yarns
or threads composed both of vegetable and animal material.
The chemical contracting agents which I prefer to employ are concentrated
alkaline solutions such as caustic soda lyes at from 15° to 36° B according to the

page_text: degree of contraction to be obtained; but I may also employ as contracting agents
concentrated acids, for instance sulphuric acid from 50° to 66° Baumé.
The simplest means to be employed for carrying out the process is to dip the
yarns or threads, in the form of loose hanks, into the contracting solution or bath.
These baths should be preferably maintained at a low temperature about 0° C or
32° Fahrenheit. At such a temperature, the contraction takes place easily without
injuring the fibres, and the operation may be more slowly and conveniently carried
on. The yarns or threads when taken out from the contracting bath must be
thoroughly washed and passed through a neutralizing bath. When the contracting
agents employed are alkaline solutions, the neutralizing bath to be employed is an
acid solution, and vice versa.
The above is the simplest mode of operation but any other method for the
treatment of the yarns or threads may also be employed. For instance, the yarns
or threads may be passed individually through the contracting and neutralizing
baths or they may be dipped into these baths in the form of bundles. In the
latter case, a vacuum at the surface of the liquid bath would be advantageously
used for the purpose of producing a thorough penetration of the solution into the
bundles of threads or yarns.
The yarns or threads obtained by this Invention may be employed either for
weaving purposes, or for embroidering, trimming, or any ornainental purposes,
and they may be employed either alone or in combination with ordinary yarns,
threads, or fabrics.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is;
1st. As a new article of manufacture, waved or crimpled yarns or threads, or
groups or combinations of yarns or threads, some of the component parts of which
bave become contracted, substantially as above specified.
2nd. The process of manufacturing the herein designated waved or crimpled
yarns or threads, which consists in submitting threads composed both of vegetable
and animal fibres to the action of certain chemical agents as herein described,
whereby certain of the yarns or threads are caused to contract while the others
remain unaltered and thus produce the effects constituting the characteristic
feature of these new articles.
3rd. The process of manufacturing the herein designated waved or crimpled
yarns or threads, consisting in the partial application-by reserve of chemical
agents whose action causes the partial contraction of the component yarns of the
yarn or thread, substantially as above described.
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