A New or Improved Machine for Sewing, Embroidering, and other kindred Operations.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd June, 1891"
Complete Specification Left, 29th June, 1891-Accepted, 12th Dec., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Machine for Sewing, Embroidering, and other
kindred Operations.
I, ADOLPHE VICTOR DESHAYES of No. 6 Rue des Petites Ecuries, Paris,
Mechanician, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a new or improved machine with shuttle and with
universal feed, provided with a needle which may be made oscillating or fixed at
times, according to the work to be done. This machine executes, as desired, satin
stitch or tambouring, scallops, overedge-stitch-seams, zig-zags, braiding, cording,
beading, and top and bottom embroidery etc. as hereinafter described.
In order to enable my arrangement of machine to be well understood I have
illustrated it by way of example in the drawings annexed to this Specification, in
which drawings,
Fig. 1 is a general view of the face of the machine.
Fig. 2 is a side elevation.
Fig. 3 shews separately the arrangement of automatic tension for the thread
employed in sewing.
Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the driving mechanism of the needle.
Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the driving mechanism of the shuttle.
Figs. 6 and 7 are front views of the machine with the arrangement for causing
the oscillation of the needle, in two different positions.
Fig. 8 is an end view of the apparatus for driving the shuttle.
Fig. 9 shews particularly the arrangement of the shuttle.
Fig. 10 is a horizontal section of the machine on the line 1-2 of Fig. 4.
Fig. 11 is an underside view of the machine.
Fig. 12 shews separately in section the system of oscillation employed in my
machine.
Fig. 13 is a modification of the system of oscillation.
Fig. 14 illustrates an arrangement of oscillating guide with a needle which is
always fixed.
As shewn in the drawing, the driving shaft 1 supported in the head 2 of the
machine, carries cams 3 which actuate the lever 4 to give the rising movement to
the foot or presser 5 which draws the material in all directions that is to say
universally.
On the driving shaft 1 is also fixed the plate 6 furnished with a roller engaging
with a heart shaped piece 7. This heart shaped piece is fixed on the flat bar 8
which is surmounted by support 9, in which rotates and oscillates the rod 10 or
needle carrier which works in the interior of the central tube 11. On this tube 11
are fixed the two twin levers 12 mounted on a collar 12"; these levers serve to
oscillate the needle carrier 10 by means of a cam 13 that actuates a lever 14. For
this purpose the lever 14 terminates in a fork carrying two pins or projections.
fitted in the groove of the tube 15 formed in one with a coned or tapering part 16
that acts upon the two twin levers 12. The two levers 12 are connected together
at their lower end as shewn in Figs. 6 and 7. They are provided with two rollers
in contact with the needle bar 10 and movement is imparted to them by a toothed
wheel 17 driven by a pinion 18 keyed on the driving shaft 1.
The cam 13 is mounted on a shaft 19 which is provided at its end with a flat
part in order that this cam may slide over the same whilst maintaining its connec-
tion so as to be capable of being rotated thereby by the action of a forked lever 20
so as to change the working of the needle, either to vary the extent of its oscillation
or for rendering it fixed or stationary. For this purpose the lever.14 is maintained

page_text: constantly in contact with the cam 13 by means of a pressure spring 21, whatever
may be the position of the cam. The central tube 11 on which are mounted all
the parts serving to transmit the oscillatory movement of the needle, is provided
internally and at its lower part with a groove 22, Fig. 12, which extends only for a
certain height on said tube. This groove 22 constitutes at the same time a slide-
way for, and serves for turning, the needle carrier 10 which is jointed at its upper
part by a socket joint 23 forming one with the flat bar 9. The guide 24 is mounted
with slight friction on the lower part of the central tube 11' and is surmounted by
the pressure spring 25 which keeps it, when desired, on the material. This guide
serves to exert pressure upon the material, during the opening of the loop of the
thread, in order that the shuttle may pass therein and form the stitch. It also
serves as a passage for the materials with which are formed the embroidery and
the stitches already mentioned.
As the guide 24 cannot constantly be in contact with the material, it is raised
when desired, that is to say whilst the material is advanced by the presser or foot.
For this purpose the needle carrier 10.is provided at its lower end with a small
projection 26 as shewn separately in Fig. 4. This projection meets, during the
ascent of the needle carrier 10, the projection 27 of the said guide 24, and this
determines the raising of the latter. The rotary movement is imparted to the.
central tube 11 as shewn in Fig. 1 by means of a pinion 28 driven by another
pinion 29 which receives its movement from two bevel pinious 30 one of which is
keyed upon the horizontal shaft 31. This central tube thus driven, transmits in its
turn the rotary movement to an intermediate pinion 32 which drives directly the
pinion 33 that is mounted on the vertical shaft 34 carrying any suitable arrange-
ment of universal feed 35.
The pinion 29 is mounted upon a vertical shaft 36 arranged in a support 37 fixed
on the head 2. This pinion 29 drives a pinion 38 which actuates the pinion 39
(Fig. 1) fitted on the support 37. The plate 40 is fixed on the pinion 39 by which
it is moved. It is furnished with the reels and with the thread tension. The flat
bar 9 has an ascending movement and carries a vertical tube 41 which is extended
to a certain height so as to surmount the plate 40.and serves to draw the thread off
the reels. The plate 40 also carries the reel 42 for the reception of the material
necessary for embroidering. This plate is also furnished with the automatic, tension.
shewn separately in Fig. 3.
This tension consists of a tube 44 provided with two conical buttons 45, one
fixed, and the other movable; they are designed to fix the reel 46 on the tube 44.
This arrangement also comprises at one of the ends of the tube a fixed pin 47 on
which engages the point of the screw 48 which serves to give more or less tension
to the reel. The other end of the tube is provided with a kind of piston 49 upon
which acts constantly a coil spring 50.
In unwinding from the reel 46, the thread passes through the eye 51 to the
tension device 52 then into the tube 41 and finally to the needle, passing into the
oscillating tube 10 on which the needle is mounted. The material wound off
the reel 42 passes first into the guide 53 and then takes the same path as the
thread, so as to finally enter the hole in the guide 24 in order to obtain upon said
material the various stitches above specified.
The horizontal shaft 31 which serves to impart movement to the parts carried on
the head 2, carries a bevel pinion 54 by which it receives rotary movement from a
pinion 55 fixed on the vertical shaft 56. This shaft 56 also carries another bevel
pinion 57 engaging with a pinion 58 keyed on the horizontal shaft 59 which receives
movement from the crank handle 60. This crank handle imparts motion for this
purpose to two bevel pinions 61 and a small horizontal shaft 62; this shaft and the
shaft 59 are provided with bevel pinions 63 by means of which the motion of the
crank handle 60 is transmitted to the borizontal shaft 59. This shaft 59 extends
under the bed plate 64 of the machine; it is furnished with a large bevel pinion 65
gearing with a central pinion 66 upon which are mounted the parts requisite for
the movement of the shuttle.

page_text: The pinion 66 is fitted in the support 67 fixed on the bed plate 64 and the whole
is furnished at its centre with a grooved rod 68 actuated by the forked lever 69
which carries for this purpose two flat rollers engaged in the groove of the rod.
This rod 68 thus has a reciprocating vertical movement and communicates recipro-
cating rotary movement to the screw 70 by means of two rollers loosely mounted
on a shaft 71 perpendicular to the rod 68. The screw 70 is designed to impart the
circular alternating movement to the shuttle 72 by means of the shuttle driver 73
fixed to the centre of the screw as shewn in Fig. 9. This shuttle and its shuttle
driver work in a circular basin 74 fixed on a frame 75 mounted on the pinion 66
and the whole arrangement rises to the level of the cover plate 76. At the centre
of this plate and in a recess formed for the purpose, is fitted the needle plate 77,
Fig. 9, it is perforated with an oblong groove in which the needle moves either in
a rectilinear manner for ordinary sewing, or according to the extent of its oscillation
when making zig zag stitches for instance. This needle plate 77 is fixed on the
support 75 and rotates with it in its circular motion. The screw 70 is mounted
as before stated in the frame 75 and rotates at its upper part in the basin 74; it
is moreover fixed at its lower part by a point formed in one with the same.
For the passage of the needle 1 have formed the edge of the basin 74 with a
groove 78 this groove is similar to the oblong groove of the needle plate 77 as
shown in the small separate view of Fig. 9. The lever 69 is designed to operate
the screw 70 and is fixed to the end of a horizontal shaft 80 mounted in twe
supports 81 forming one with the bed plate 64. This shaft 80 carries at its
opposite end a crank or arm 82 surmounted by the connecting rod 83 connected to
a crank plate 84 Fig. 10. This arrangement transmits alternating motion from
the plate to the lever 69 and thence to the screw 70. The plate 84 is fixed to the
end of a shaft 85 which carries at the same time the pinion 86, Fig. 10. This
pinion gears with the pinion 87, Figs. 4 and 10, for imparting continuous circular
movement to the plate 84 which converts it into an alternating rectilinear move-
ment. For this purpose, the pinion 87 is mounted on the driving shaft 1 whose
motion it receives.
The engaging device 88 is one with the shaft 1 and consists of the parts
necessary for this purpose, as in all embroidering machines. It is quite clear that.
I have described hereinabove my machine in principle only and that I am free to
vary the details, forms, accessories, materials, dimensions and arrangements of the
same without changing in any way the nature of my invention.
Thus for example I may obtain the oscillatory movement of the needle by means
of the arrangement illustrated in Fig. 13 wherein the needle carrier 10 is acted on
by the lower ends of the levers 12 which levers are actuated by a cam or coned
piece 16. This arrangement dispenses with the vertical shaft 34 and the pinions 32
and 33, and then the universal feed 35 is mounted directly upon the central
tube 11. The modification illustrated in Fig. 14 shows an arrangement with an
oscillating guide a and a fixed needle; this guide is mounted on the central shaft b
by means of a collar c and it bears on a cone d in the same manner as the twin
levers 12 above described. With this arrangement, the material serving for
embroidering arrives through the central tube passes out through the orifice e and
then passes into the hole formed in the lower part of the oscillating guide a.
Motion is given to this oscillating guide by the same parts as in the case of the
oscillating needle and I thus obtain a straddling stitch on the material used for
embroidering when I cause this guide to oscillate; but when I render this guide
fixed, this enables me to fasten the embroidery, either at its centre or on the
side. This arrangement also enables me to embroider with chenilles, beads, braid,
cords, etc.
Dated thiol day of In 1901
A. V. DESHAYES,
By L. W., per F. B.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Machine for Sewing, Embroidering, and other.
kindred Operations.
I, ADOLPHE VICTOR DESHAYES of No. 6 Rue des Petites Ecuries, Paris,
Mechanician, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention relates to a new or improved machine with shuttle and with
universal feed, provided with a needle which may be made oscillating or fixed at
times, according to the work to be done. This machine executes as desired satin
stitch or tambouring, scallops, overedge-stitch-seams, zig-zags, braiding, cording;
beading, and top and bottom embroidery etc. as hereinafter described.
In order to enable my arrangement of machine to be well understood I have
illustrated it by way of example in the drawings filed with my Provisional
Specification, in which drawings,
Fig. 1 is a general view of the face of the machine.
Fig. 2 is a side clevation.
Fig. 3 shows separately the arrangement of automatic tension for the thread
employed in sewing.
Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the driving mechanism of the needle.
Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the driving mechanism of the shuttle.
Figs. 6 and 7 are front views of the machine with the arrangement for causing
the oscillation of the needle, in two different positions.
.
Fig. 8 is an end view of the apparatus for driving the shuttle.
Fig. 9 shews particularly the arrangement of the shuttle.
Fig. 10 is a horizontal section of the machine on the line 1-2 of Fig. 4.
Fig. 11 is an underside view of the machine.
.
Fig. 12 shews separately in section the system of oscillation employed in my
machine.
Fig. 13 is a modification of the system of oscillation.
Fig. 14 illustrates an arrangement of oscillating guide with a needle which is
always fixed.
As shown in the drawing, the driving shaft 1 supported in the head 2 of the
machine, carries cams 3 which actuate the lever 4 to give the rising movement to
the foot or presser 5 which draws the material in all directions that is to say
universally.
On the driving shaft 1 is also fixed the plate 6 furnished with a roller engaging
with a heart shaped piece 7. This heart shaped piece is fixed on the flat bar 8
which is surmounted by support 9, in which rotates and oscillates the rod 10 or
needle carrier which works in the interior of the central tube 11. On this tube 11
are fixed the two twin levers 12 mounted on a collar 12ª; these levers serve to
oscillate the needle carrier 10 by means of a cam 13 that actuates a lever 14. For
this purpose the lever 14 terminates in a fork carrying two pins or projections
fitted in the groove of the tube 15 formed in one with a cam or tapering part 16
that acts upon the two twin levers 12. The two levers 12 are connected togetlier.
at their lower end as shewn in Figs. 6 and 7. They are provided with two rollers
in contact with the needle bar 10 and movement is imparted to them by a toothed
wheel 17 driven by a pinion 18 keyed on the driving shaft 1.
The cam 13 is mounted ou a shaft 19 which is provided at its end with a flat:
part in order that this cam may slide over the same whilst maintaining its connec-
tion so as to be capable of being rotated thereby by the action of a forked lever 20
so as to change the working of the needle, either to vary the extent of its oscilla-
tion or for rendering it fixed or stationary. For this purpose the lever 14 is
maintained constantly in contact with the cam 13 by means of a pressure spring 21,

page_text: whatever may be the position of the cam. The central tube 11 on which are
mounted all the parts serving to transmit the oscillatory movement of the needle,
is provided internally and at its lower part with a groove 22, Fig. 12 which extends.
only for a certain height on said tube. This groove 22 constitutes at the same
time a slideway for and serves for turning the needle carrier 10 which is jointed.
at its upper part by a socket joint 23 forming one with the flat bar 9. The guide 24
is mounted with slight friction on the lower part of the central tube 11 and is
surmounted by the pressure spring 25 which keeps it, when desired, on the material.
This guide serves to exert pressure upon the material, during the opening of the
loop of the thread, in order that the shuttle may pass therein and form the stitch.
It also serves as a passage for the materials with which are formed the embroidery
and the stitches already mentioned.
As the guide 24 cannot constantly be in contact with the material, it is raised
when desired, that is to say whilst the material is advanced by the presser or foot.
For this purpose the needle carrier 10 is provided at its lower end with a small
projection 26 as shewn separately in Fig. 4. This projection meets, during the
ascent of the needle carrier 10, the projection 27 of the said guide, 24, and this
determines the raising of the latter. The rotary movement is imparted to the
central tube 11 as shown in Fig. 1 by means of a pinion 28 driven by another
pinion 29 which receives its movement from two bevel pinions 30 one of which is
keyed upon the horizontal shaft. 31. This central tube thus driven, transmits in
its turn the rotary movement to an intermediate pinion 32 which drives directly the
pinion 33 that is mounted on the vertical shaft 34 carrying any suitable arrangement
of universal feed 35.
The pinion 29 is mounted upon a vertical shaft 36 arranged in a support 37
fixed on the head 2. This pinion 29 drives a pinion 38 which actuates the pinion 39
(Fig. 1) fitted on the support. 37. The plate 40 is fixed on the pinion 39. by which
it is moved. It is furnished with the reels and with the thread tension. The flat
bar 9 has an ascending movement and carries a vertical tube 41 which is extended
to a certain height so as to surmount the plate 40 and serves to draw the thread
off the reels. The plate 40 also carries the reel 42 for the reception of the material
necessary for embroidering. This plate is also furnished with the automatic tension
shewn separately in Fig. 3.
This tension consists of a tube 44 provided with two conical buttons 45, one
fixed and the other movable; they are designed to fix the reel 46 on the tube 44.
This arrangement also comprises at one of the ends of the tube a fixed pin 47 on
which engages the point of the screw 48 which serves to give more or less tension
to the reel. The other end of the tube is provided with a kind of piston 49 upon
which acts constantly a coil spring 50.
In unwinding from the reel 46, the thread passes through the eye 51 to thic
tension device 52, then into the tube 41 and finally to the needle, passing into the
oscillating tube 10 on which the needle is mounted. The material wound off
the reel 42 passes first into the guide 53 and then takes the same path as the thread,
so as to finally enter the hole in the guide 24 in order to obtain upon said material
the various stitches above specified.
The horizontal shaft 31 which serves to impart movement to the parts carried
on the head 2, carries a bevel pinion 54 by which it receives rotary movement from
a pinion 55 fixed on the vertical shaft 56. This shaft 56 also carries another bevel
pinion 57 engaging with a pinion 58 keyed on the horizontal shaft 59 which receives
movement from the crank handle 60. This crank handle imparts motion for this
purpose to two bevel pinions 61 and a small horizontal shaft 62; this shaft and the
shaft 59 are provided with bevel pinions 63 by means of which the motion of
the crank handle 60 is transmitted to the horizontal shaft 59. This shaft 59
extends under the bed plate 64 of the machine; it is furnished with a large
bevel pinion 65 gearing with a central pinion 66 upon which are mounted the parts
requisite for the movement of the shuttle.
::
The pinion 66 is fitted in. the support 67 fixods on the bed plate::64: and the

page_text: whole is furnished at its centre with a grooved rod 68 actuated by the forked
lever 69 which carries for this purpose two flat rollers engaged in the groove of the
rod. This rod 68 thus has a reciprocating vertical movement and communicates
reciprocating rotary movement to the screw 70 by means of two rollers loosely.
mounted on a shaft 71 perpendicular to the rod 68. The screw 70 is designed to
impart the circular alternating movement to the shuttle 72 by means of the shuttle
driver 73 fixed to the centre of the screw as shewn in Fig. 9. This shuttle and its
shuttle-driver work in a circular basin 74 fixed on a frame 75 mounted on the
pinion 66 and the whole arrangement rises to the level of the cover plate 76. At
the centre of this plate and in a recess formed for the purpose, is fitted the needle
plate 77, Fig. 9; it is perforated with an oblong groove in which the needle moves
either in a rectilinear manner for ordinary sewing, or according to the extent of
its oscillation when making zig zag stitches for instance. This needle plate 77 is
fixed on the support 75 and rotates with it in its circular motion. The screw 70
is mounted as before stated in the frame 75 and rotates at its upper part in the
basin 74 it is moreover fixed at its, lower part by a point formed in one with
the same..
For the passage of the needle I form the edge of the basin 74 with a groove 78:
this groove is similar to the oblong groove of the needle plate 77 as shown in the
small separate view of Fig. 9. The lever 69 is designed to operate the screw 70
and is fixed to the end of a horizontal shaft 80 mounted in two supports 81 forming
one with the bed plate 64. This shaft 80 carries at its opposite end a crank or
arm 82 surmounted by the connecting rod 83 connected to a crank plate 84 Fig. 10.
This arrangement transmits alternating notion from the plate to the lever 69 and
thence to the screw 70. The plate 84 is fixed to the end of a shaft S5 which
carries at the same time the pinion 86, Fig. 10. This pinion gears with the
pinion 87, Figs. 4 and 10, for imparting continuous circular movement to the
plate 84 which converts it into an alternating rectilinear movement.
For this
purpose, the pinion 87 is mounted on the driving shaft 1 whose motion it
receives.
The engaging device 88 is one with the shaft 1 and consists of the parts necessary
for this purpose, as in all embroidering machines. It is quite clear that I have
described hereinabove my machine in principle only and, that I am free to vary the
details, forms, accessories, materials, dimensions and arrangements of the same
without changing in any way the nature of my invention. Thus for example I
may obtain the oscillatory movement of the needle by means of the arrangement
illustrated in Fig. 13 wherein the needle carrier 10 is acted on by the lower ends
of the levers 12 which levers are actuated by a cam or coned piece 16. This
arrangement dispenses with the vertical shaft 34 and the pinions 32 and 33, and
then the universal feed 35 is mounted directly upon the central tube 11. The
modification illustrated in Fig. 14 shows an arrangement with an oscillating guide a
and a fixed needle; this guide is mounted on the central shaft b by means of a
collar c and it bears on a cone d in the same manner as the twin levers 12 above
described. With this arrangement, the material serving for embroidering arrives
through the central tube, passes out through the orifice e, and then passes into the
hole formed in the lower part of the oscillating guide.
с
Motion is given to this oscillating guide by the same parts as in the case of the
oscillating needle and I thus obtain a straddling stitch on the material used for
embroidering, when I cause this guide to oscillate; but when I render this guide
fixed, this enables me to fasten the embroidery either at its centre or on the
side. This arrangement also enables me to embroider with chenilles, beads, braid,
cords, etc.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
· 1. A machine for sewing and making satin stitches or tambouring, scallops,

page_text: over-edge, stitched seams, zig zags, and for sewing at top and bottom, cording,
braiding, beading etc., without shifting the material operated upon, constructed
substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying
drawings.
2. In a machine of the kind referred to in the preceding claim, the method of
mounting and driving the needle, so as to enable it to oscillate in all directions and
to any desired extent by means of a regulating cam 13 capable of being regulated
at will for obtaining the desired length of stitch.
3. In a machine of the kind referred to in Claim 1 the combination of levers 12
with a double-action cam 16 actuated through the medium of a regulating cam 13
and of the lever 14, to operate the socket jointed needle carrier 10; or to effect the
oscillation of the guide a shown in Fig. 14 of the accompanying drawings,
substantially as set forth.
4. In a machine of the kind referred to in Claim 1 a screw 70 and a shuttle
driver 73 which actuate the shuttle 72 according to the movements of the needle
carrier 10, in order that the said shuttle may be able to pass into the loop of the
thread of the needle, and form the stitches substantially as specified.
Dated this 20th day of Lune 1801
A. V. DESHAYES,
By L. W., per F. B