An Improved Method of Measuring and Cutting out Garments.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Mar., 1889
Specification Accepted, 27th Apr., 1889
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Method of Measuring and Cutting out Garments.
We CARL SCHUBERT, of 13 Breitestrasse, Dresden, Saxony, in the Empire of
Germany, Tailor, and RICHARD KREMMLER, of 23 Wettinerstrasse, Dresden, aforesaid,
Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of said invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :—
The objects of this invention are to greatly facilitate the measuring and cutting out
according to the measures taken in the manufacture of garments, such as undor or
outer garments so that unskilled persons may readily learn to measure cut and prepare
well fitting parts or portions of garments.
And in order that our said Invention may be particularly described and ascertained,
reference is hereby mado to the accompanying drawings, in which similar letters and
figures of reference indicate corresponding parts.
Fig. 1 shows our improved scale Fig. 2 illustrates the method of finding the cutting
points for a lady's jacket. Fig. 3 further illustrates the same. Fig. 4 shows the use
to which the several points are put. Fig. 5 further illustrates the cutting of a ladies
jacket.
The Scale (Fig. 1) consists of a right angled triangle in which the vertical side
211
m
is 0.25 long and the horizontal 0.50 long; these two sides being divided in carrying
centimetres as clearly shown. Our process consists chiefly in preparing a drawing of
the piece to be cut by means of a square plan in which the dimensions are regulated
according to the measure taken from the person, such as the width of the breast, for
pieces of garments intended to cover the upper part of the body; and the width of the
hips for those required to cover the lower part thereof.

page_text: -
The method of finding the various points which intersect the contour of the piece to
bo cut is illustrated in Figs. 2, 3 and 4 of the drawings for a particular garment, and
a definite measure, the drawing showing portion of a ladies jackets corresponding to an
m
upper width of 0.88.
A square a. b. c. d. (Figs. 2, 3 and 4) is first drawn, its sides a b, bc,
m
and da, being
half the size of the above mentioned upper width, viz. :-0.44 Diagonals are thon
drawn from a to c and b to d meeting in the centre m of the square. Then the
scale e f g (Fig. 1.) is laid with its acute angle efg on the corners a b c and d
of the square in such a manner that the side e f is in line with one of the sides
of the square, and the hypothenuse crosses another side of the same square. By
means of this hypotenuse, the lines f. g, f¹ g' f f g³ are drawn, these lines
meeting at the points and s². The central point m gives the centres of the
arm holes; the point s', the nipples; the point, the bighest point of the shoukler
bone, and the corner d of the square gives the position of the navel, on the
drawing of the form of the body, as shewn in Figs. 2 and 4. When the inter-
secting points have been thus determined, the following triangles are drawn in
the square abc d, viz. :—e³ ƒ"¹ g¹, e² ƒª¹ gª²'eª ƒ'¹ g² er flugʻ eð ƒ gỗ and eª ƒ¹ gº,
while the scale is arranged with its acute angle fin a middle position, the
hypothenuse being placed over the corners a b c and d of tho square; and upon
the lines fg so obtained the 10th part of one of the sides of the square is
marked 8 times in order to obtain the point n; once upon lino fe¹ to determine
the point o and six times in order to find n¹ five times on fle to obtain_n²;
five times on f¹³ for n²; twice on f¹e for o¹ and five times for n; three
times on fe for O and four times for ; twice on f¹g for 0 and seven times
for once upon f¹e for o*, twice for 'n' and five times for ; three times
on fe for ; four times on f¹g for and 6 times for . n¹ is now con-
nected to 0 and the scale is placed with its acute anglo g on min such a manner
upon that the line n 0 will be intersected by the hypothenuse thereof,
whereby the point o² is obtained, then the said measure is moved on fe as far
as the point and the line is drawn, and upon it are carried four tenths of
the side of a square in order to obtain , being subsequently determined by
drawing a circle from r with a tenth of the size of the square for radius another
from and with four tenths thereof for radius; those two circles intersecting
each other at the point sought, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4 of the drawings. The
points determined in the manner described n°n¹ n² n³ n¹ o² 0¹ 0 0 0 and nº
delineate chiefly when connected together and for cutting purposes the front part
or piece; while the points and form the rear piece or part. In
order to finish the pieces to be cut only the height and width of the waist are
needed, the former must be drawn on the piece by measuring from i to k and
from to while half the circumference of the waist is divided in 14 parts and
three of these parts from k to 1, from 2 to and from ³ to 13, and two from
k¹ to must be carried upon the waist lines.
The correctness of the pieces thus obtained can be easily checked by measuring on tho
person the width of the breast, the width of the back, the width of the hips, half the height
of the shoulder, the whole height of the shoulder, the front and rear bust, and by
marking the same off on the pieces in the following manner: the breadth of the
breast from to n', the width of the back from t to n, the width of hips from
to y, ¹ to y, to y² and ³ to y³, the half shoulder height from 2 to 7 and n
tok, the whole shoulder height from to p¹ and from p to k, the front bust
from n to q and from 92 to 7 and the rear bust from q to q¹, y to g³ and q
to as clearly shewn in Fig. 5 of the drawings. The sleeve piece is developed
in a similar manner by means of the half width of the breast.
This process has the great advantage over other systems, that when carrying it
out the cutter immediately obtains the accurate relative positions of the various

page_text: points on a plane drawing, so that the drawing of the parties always correct;
while in the methods hitherto employed, notwithstanding careful measuring, it is
a matter of difficulty to determine correctly the proper positions of the various
points.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my inven-
tion & in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1
1. The method of developing from the principal measurements of the human
body, the configuration of the several parts of garments, substantially as herein-
before described and illustrated by the drawings.
2. The improved method of measuring and cutting out garments by means of
the decimally divided scale applied to a rectangular drawing, the lengths of the
sides of which dopend upon initial measurements, substantially as hereinbefore
described and illustrated by the drawings.