Improvements in Dressmaking.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Feb., 1892-Accepted, 26th Mar., 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Dressmaking.
I, ANNIE COZENS of 18 Gironde Road Fulham, London do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to an improved method of dressmaking by which patterns
for bodices and bodices or body fitted articles of dress can be made accurately from
the measurements taken without any necessity for trying on.
According to my invention I draw several horizontal lines, corresponding to
various points measured on the body, and representing neck, bust, and waist lines.
I also set off a number of vertical lines, measured at various points, such as the
centres of front and back, underneath the armpits, and at the sides, a few cross
measurements being taken to get various points and correct the vertical and
horizontal lines, as hereinafter described.
Referring to the accompanying sheet of drawings
Fig. 1 represents one half of the front piece of a bodice,
Fig. 2 one half of the back, and
Figs. 3 and 4 side pieces joining the front and back made according to my
invention.
The drawings only show the pieces for one half of the bodice, the other half
being made of the same pieces and shapes.
A is the bust and B the waist line in all the figures, C the hip line and
D D' the lines for the neck at the front, and E for the neck at the back, the
position of these lines being easily obtained by measurement. F and G are the
centre vertical lines for the front and back respectively, from which the lines H, I
and J are measured. H is the shoulder line, I a line taken from the centre of the
armpits, and J taken from the back of the shoulder. The line D' gives the depth
to which the neck is to be cut, varying according to the taste of the wearer, the
distance of the point D2 above the line D being obtained by measuring from
the point A¹ on the line A over the bust I also measure the distance from A¹
to D³ in order to test the accuracy of the lines. The points E' and E² are also
obtained in a similar manner, but they may be estimated, without special measuring,
from the other data.
The curves for the parts under the armpits, are of a form well known, and any
experienced dressmaker will be able to cut the bodice, on knowing the guiding
lines. The front piece, is cut first in the form shown in solid lines, the curves
being known, and the distance from the waist or hip line to the bottom of the
bodice measured in the usual manner, but after this piece is cut, two sections or
darts K, shown in dotted lines are taken out, and the edges brought together,
reducing the width of the piece, the line K' for the top of the chief dart being
estimated from the other measurements. When the bodice is made, the waist
measurement will not be the width of the sections along the line B but along the
dotted lines B', the run of these lines being equal to the circumference of the waist
and the necessary allowances for stitching &c. The back and side pieces, Figs. 2
& 4, are provided with flaps L of the ordinary ornamental description. The
piece Fig. 4 has its upper end cut as shown in dotted lines, but its accurate form
is as indicated in full lines, the extra piece being allowed in case of any slight
inaccuracy, and is cut off when the dress is being made. This system can be
applied to any other body fitting articles, such as jackets, the measurements,
proportions & pieces being of course different.

page_text: In carrying out my invention, I'propose to sell patterns made from the measure-
ments by which ladies may make their own dresses or have them made for them
accurately, a few easily taken measurements only being required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
A method or system of dressmaking in which a number of horizontal and
vertical lines are drawn at measured distances representing respectively the
measurements of the neck, bust, waist, and hip, and the centres of back and frout,
shoulder armpit & side, the pieces forming the dress being cut according to the
position of the lines, substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
Dated this 2nd day of Tab 1000
GEO. H. RAYNER,
37, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.