IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND ORNAMENTATION OF WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1886

page_text: WOW FAVORS
I JOHN PLATT, of The Mount, Walton, near Warrington, in the County of
Chester, Master Fustian Cutter, do hereby declare the nature of said Inven-
tion for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND ORNAMENTATION OF WOVEN
FABRICS, to be as follows:-
My invention consists in the production, by certain novel combinations of
weaving and cutting, of new effects in the appearance or ornamentation of woven
fabrics.
To produce a check pattern according to my Invention I weave the fabric in
alternate transverse stripes of pile fabric and plain twilled or figured cloth either
alone separately or together in combination and then by the ordinary process of
fustian cutting I cut the woven fabric in stripes longitudinally so as to produce a'
check pattern on the face.
By these means three different effects are produced in the pattern on the surface
of the fabric, namely,
(a.) The effect produced by that portion of the cloth which is woven plain
twilled or figured, or a combination of all three or any two of these.
(b.) The effect produced by that portion of the pile fabric which is cut, and-
(c.) The effect produced by that portion of the pile fabric which is left uncut.
Variations of these three effects may be produced as already indicated by
different combinations of the plain cloth the twilled cloth, and the figured cloth,
and by varying the design or designs of any portion or portions.
The above or similar combinations may also be used to produce stripes running.
lengthwise of the piece instead of a check.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture and Ornamentation of
.
Woven Fabrics.
I JOHN PLATT, of The Mount, Walton, near. Warrington, in the County of
Chester, Master Fustian Cutter do hereby declare the nature of said invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND ORNAMENTATION OF WOVEN
FABRICS, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention consists in the production, by certain novel combinations, of
weaving and cutting, of new effects in the appearance or ornamentation of woven
fabrics.
To produce a check pattern on the surface of a woven fabric according to my
Invention I weave the fabric in alternate transverse stripes of pile fabric and of
plain, twilled, or figured fabric, either the plain, the twilled, or the figured stripes
alone separately, or all three or any two of them employed together in combination
and then by the ordinary process of fustian cutting I cut the pile portion of the
woven fabric in stripes longitudinally thereby producing on the face of the fabric
a check pattern or variations of check patterns as desired.
In this way three or more different effects are produced in the pattern on the
surface of the fabric, namely
(a.) The effect produced by that portion of the fabric which is woven either
plain twilled or figured, or a combination of all three, or any two of these.
(b.) The effect produced by that portion of the pile fabric which is cut, and-
(c.) The effect produced by that portion of the pile fabric which is left uncut.
Similar combinations of weaving and of cutting may also be used to produce
stripes running lengthwise of the piece instead of a check or variations of a check
pattern, in this case the fabric would be woven without transverse stripes and the
pilė alternately cut and left so as to produce longitudinal stripes.
Variations of these effects may be produced as already indicated by different
combinations of the plain cloth, the twilled cloth, and the figured cloth, also by
varying the design woven on any portion or portions of the fabric and further by
weaving longitudinal stripes, either plain, twilled, or figured in addition to the
transverse stripes and then by the ordinary process of fustian cutting I cut the pile
portion of the woven fabric in stripes longitudinally thereby producing on the face
of the fabric a check pattern or variations of a check pattern as desired.
And in order that my Invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect I will describe the accompanying sheet of Drawings, reference being had
to the figures and letters marked thereon.
Figure 1 represents a piece of fabric woven in alternate transverse stripes, of
which the stripes marked a are uncut pile fabric, and those marked 6 may be either

page_text: plain, twilled, or figured fabric, any one of the three alone, or any two or all three
employed together in combination.
For the purposes of this description let it be assumed that the stripes b are in
this case woven of plain fabric only.
Figures 2, 3 and 4 represent three out of the many check patterns or com-
binations of check patterns which may be produced according to iny Invention by
cutting in longitudinal stripes a¹, by the ordinary process of fustian cutting the
transverse pile stripes a, Figure 1. In each of the three different patterns,
Figs. 2, 3 and 4 three different effects are produced, namely,-(1) the uncut pile a,
(2) the cut pile a¹, and (3) the plain fabric b.
Fig. 5 is substantially the same as Fig. 2, the only difference being that in this
case the transverse stripes b. are shown woven figured instead of plain.
Fig. 6 represents the transverse stripes a and b, so proportioned and spaced that
when cut by the ordinary process of fustian cutting in longitudinal stripes ns
previously described the fancy check pattern shown in Fig. 7 is produced.
Fig. 8 shows the fabric woven in alternate transverse pile and plain stripes a
and 6 respectively and also with longitudinal twilled stripes c as shown (or these
stripes c may be either plain or figured) so that by cutting the pile portion in
stripes longitudinally, alternately cutting a portion of the pile and leaving a
portion uncut, the pattern illustrated by Fig. 9 is produced.
Fig. 10 shows the fabric woven with a figured instead of a plain transverse
stripe b and with longitudinal twilled (or plain or figured) stripes cas before so
that by cutting the pile in stripes longitudinally, alternately cutting a portion of the
pile and leaving part of the pile uncut the pattern represented in Fig. 11 is
obtained.
In all the foregoing Figures, the fabric is represented as being woven with either
plain, twilled or figured transverse stripes but new combinations in striped patterns
may be obtained by omitting the said transverse stripes and weaving a fabric with
longitudinal plain, twilled or figured stripes c as shown in Fig. 12 and then cutting
stripes longitudinally in the cloth by the ordinary process of fustian cutting,
cutting a portion of the pile fabric and leaving uncut another portion alternately.
Various patterns in stripes may be produced in this manner such as those indicated
by Figs. 13, 14, and 15.
The fabric or any portion of it may be woven of cotton, silk, or any other
suitable textile material or a mixture or combination of such materials.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. In a woven fabric, the combination with transverse stripes woven alternately
of pile fabric and of either plain, twilled, or figured cloth, or all three or any two
of these, of stripes cut longitudinally in the pile portion of the fabric by the
ordinary process of fustian, cutting, the pattern produced being a check or a
variation of a check pattern, substantially as herein set forth.
2. In a woven fabric, the combination with transverse stripes woven alternately
of pile fabric, and of either plain, twilled, or figured cloth, or all three or any two
of these of stripes cut longitudinally in the fabric by the ordinary process of fustian
cutting, cutting part of the pile fabric and leaving part uncut, so as to produce
three or more different effects in the pattern on the surface of the fabric, namely,-
(1.) the plain, twilled, or figured cloth, or combinations as indicated. (2.) the cut
pile. (3.) the uncut pile, substantially as herein described and as illustrated.
3. In a woven fabric, the combination with transverse stripes woven alternately
of pile fabric and of either plain, twilled or figured cloth, or all three or any two
of these and stripes woven longitudinally of either plain, twilled, or figured cloth
or all three or any two of these of longitudinal stripes produced by the ordinary

page_text: process of fustian cutting alternately cutting a portion of the pile fabric and
leaving a portion uncut, substantially as herein set forth.
4. In a woven fabric, the combination with longitudinal stripes woven alter-
nately of pile fabric and of either plain, twilled, or figured cloth or all three or
any two of these, of longitudinal stripes obtained by cutting a portion only of the
pile fabric, substantially as herein set forth.