IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING
Year: 1884

page_text: I, JOHN JAMES EBNETER, Embroidery Manufacturer at St Gall (Adlerberg) in
Switzerland, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING" to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in machinery or apparatus for
embroidering and has for its object the combination with a Heilman or other
ordinary embroidering machine of mechanism which enables the said machine to
be also used as a shuttle machine, the resulting machine possessing all the
advantages of the ordinary embroidering machine combined with those of a shuttle
machine.
According to this invention the carriage of an ordinary embroidering machine is
arranged so as to travel in a limited course and said carriage is provided with a
second row of fixed needles, the holder of which is turned backward when the
improved machine is required to operate as an ordinary embroidering machine. On
the opposite side the carriage also ceases to operate, that is to say becomes a fixture,
when a shuttle is placed at the corresponding rear side of the inaterial which
is being embroidered.
The accompanying drawing is a side elevation of my improved machine.
The ordinary embroidering machine is represented on the drawing by means of
its principal parts which are the frame work a, the carriages b¹ and 62 moved to and
fro by means of endless belts the supports c and c¹ for the holders, the eccentric d for
the release of the needles and lastly the tentering frames f provided with the
rollers e."
The usual appliances of embroidering machines such as the flower table,
pantograph, boring and festooning apparatus are omitted in the drawing for want
of room and for the sake of clearness, but they can be fitted on this improved
machine and have no special connection with the parts included in the shuttle
motion.
Upon the carriage 6 is placed a movable bar g which enables the fixed needles i
to be continuously working upon the same side of the material; h. h are the spools
used for a continuous motion, they are acted upon by a brake at each interval
between two stitches in any suitable manner or as shown in the drawing by means
of flat springs k and by means of the spindles and system of levers l. 1. t is
an arm or guide for the continuous thread; this arm is released by means of the
rod t.

page_text: Motion is imparted, as shewn on the drawing, by the shaft u to the carriage b²,
to the thread, and to the brake, the said shaft imparting also a motion to the
movable bar p which is capable of being disengaged from the rest of the mechanism
and upon which the shuttle is placed, by means of the eccentric and arrange-
ment w. x. y of rods and lever.
The thread-guide and' the brake rods for the thread must be capable of being
thrown out of
gear when required.
To the carriage 6 is imparted a stitch motion by means of any suitable
mechanism, or as shewn in the drawing by means of the rod m, the levers n and n¹
and the eccentric o all of which are capable of being thrown in or out of gear. By
the side of the carriage 62 is fixed a stumbling bar acting as a presser for the
material which is being embroidered by means of a continuous thread. A spring
causes the said bar to press upon the material this bar being, raised and the material
released, when the needle arrives at the end of its course, by means of a
projection m¹ of the crank rod m and a system of levers; during this last
operation the tentering frame is capable of changing its position.
The moveable bar p of the shuttle is arranged at the opposite side to that of the
carriage. The rods mo serve for fixing the carriage b¹.
The displacement of 'the disconnected bar p is effected according to this invention
by the shaft set in motion by means of a crank handle which also transmits a
rotary motion to the screw rod r, the latter raising the guiding supports s and with
it the shuttle bar p.. Instead of having only one needle bar g and one shuttle
bar two or more of these could be combined together such as shown on the
drawing by way of example, at g', p, q, r, s, and in the same manner as in
-ordinary embroidering or shuttle machines.
:
ד
5:
For embroidering in different colours several moveable needle bars could be
arranged.
$
As already stated when it is required to operate this improved machine as an
ordinary embroidering machine, the following parts used in the case of continuous
operations are disconnected from the other parts, that is to say the needle bars g
and gl as well as the presser z are drawn back, and the shuttle bars p and pare
removed from their place by reason of the rotation of the shafts Չ and q'.
The mechanism for the periodical motion of the parts which effect the
embroidering by means of the shuttle (also with a continuous thread) remains
stationary; the needles about 1m in length as used for ordinary embroidery are
then brought under the clamps.
The ordinary boring and festooning apparatus can be used when required. with
this improved machine, and all kind of embroidery which is capable of being
performed on a shuttle machine can also be performed on this improved machine.
By thus combining the two machines there is obtained in a simple manner the
full advantages of both in one.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
"
I, JOHN JAMES EBNETER, Embroidery Manufacturer, at St Gall (Adlerburg)
in Switzerland, do hereby declare the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in machinery or apparatus for
embroidering and has for its object the combination with a Heilmann or
ordinary embroidering machine of mechanism which enables the said machine
to be also used as a shuttle machine, the resulting machine possessing all the
advantages of the ordinary embroidering machine combined with those of a
shuttle machine.
According to this invention the carriage of an ordinary embroidering machine is
arranged so as to travel in a limited course and the said carriage is provided with
a row of fixed needles, the holder of which is turned backward when the improved
machine is required to operate as an ordinary embroidering machine. On the
opposite side the carriage also ceases to operate that is to say becomes a fixture,
when a shuttle is placed at the corresponding rear side of the material which is
being embroidered.
Referring to the accompanying drawings Fig I is a side elevation, partly in
section, of a Heilmann embroidering machine and Fig II is a front view of the
same. Figs III and IV are respectively an end view and part of the front view of
a combination machine, according to this invention, containing only the parts
required for working the machine as a shuttle machine. Figs V and VI are
respectively a side view and the relative parts of the front view of a combination
machine which shew the mechanism for working the said machine as a Heilmann
machine as well as the mechanism for working it as a shuttle machine, the latter
mechanism being in a position for the last mentioned operation. Fig VII is a side
view of the combined machines arranged to operate as a Heilmann machine and
shewing the parts required for working the machine as a shuttle machine thrown
out of gear.
The Heilmann machine is represented on the drawing (see Figs I and II) by
means of its principal parts which are the frame work a, the carriages, 61 and 62
moved to and fro upon guides or rails a¹ and a² by means of endless belts R, the
supports c and c' for the needle holders k¹ and k², the eccentric'd for the release of
the needles ; the tentering frames f, the flower table, the pantograph, and the
boring and festooning apparatus are omitted in the drawing for want of room and
for the sake of clearness, but they can be fitted on this improved machine and have
no special connection with the parts included in the shuttle motion.
In order to enable the Heilmann machine shewn in Figs I and II to operate as a
shuttle machine, it is provided with additional mechanism as shewn in Figs III
to VI and partly represented in Fig VII.
Upon the carriage 62 (see Figs III to VI) is placed a moveable bar g. which
enables the fixed needles i to be continuously working upon the same side of the

page_text: '
material. h. h are the spools used for a continuous motion; they are acted upon
by a brake at each interval between two stitches in any suitable manner or,
as shewn in the drawings, by means of flat springs k and by means of the spindles
and system of levers l. 1. t is an arm or guide for the continuous thread; this
arm is released by means of the rod t. 'Motion is imparted, as shewn in the
drawings, by the shaft u to the carriage b2, to the thread, and to the brake; the
said shaft imparting also a motion to the movable bar p which is capable of being
disengaged from the rest of the mechanism and upon which the shuttle is placed,
by means of the eccentric v and of the arrangement w, x, y of rods and levers.
The thread-guide and the brake rods for the thread must be capable of being
thrown out of gear when required.
"
To the carriage 62 is imparted, a, stitch motion by, means of any suitable
mechanism, or as shewn in the drawing by means of the rod m, the levers n
and n, and the, eccentric o, all of which are capable of being, thrown in or out
of gear. By the side of the carriage b2 is fixed a presser, bar z acting as a presser
for the material which is being embroidered by means of continuous stitches. A
spring causes the said bar to press upon the material, this bar being raised and the
material released when the needle arrives at the end of its course, by means of a
projection m¹ of the crank rod m and a system of levers; during this last operation
the tentering frame is capable of changing its position.
The moveable, bar p of the shuttle is arranged at the opposite side to that of the
'carriage. The rods m° serve for fixing the carriage b¹ (Fig V).
The displacement of the disconnected bar p when the, machine operates as a
Heilmann machine is effected according to this invention by the shaft ġ set in
motion by means of a crank handle, which also transmits a rotary motion to the
screwed rod r, the latter raising the supports s. s and with them the shuttle bar p..
Instead of having only one needle bar g and one shuttle bar p, two or more
of these could be combined together such as shown on the drawing by way of
example, at g', p, q, 1, sand in the same manner as in ordinary embroidering or
shuttle machines.
..
'
For embroidering in different colours several moveable needle bars could be
arranged.
11
"
Figs III and IV shew the improved machine provided with the, mechanism
required, for its, continuous operation as a shuttle machine, which mechanism is
shewn in position ready for use. The carriage 62 is connected to the shaft u by
means of the rods m, the lever n. n¹ and the eccentric,O, and its needle guides are
brought down in order, to set the needles in position for operating. The thread
guide and the axes of the brake springs are connected with their respective
eccentrics upon the shaft u together with the system of rods and levers W. X. Y. of
the shuttle, bars p and p¹, these bars having been previously screwed down into
working position by, reason, of the rotation of the shafts q and q'.
The presser,z is pressed upon the material under the action of the spring z² by
means of the lever z³, and remains in that position until the projection m¹ of the
carriage rod m strikes against the lever 21. Figs V and VI shew the combined
machines in, their entirety while in Figs III and IV those parts are omitted which
are not required.when the machine operates as a shuttle machine. For this reason
the carriage b is not drawn in Fig III although in reality it is held upon the
rails a' by means of the rod mº.
i?
As already stated, when it is required to operate this improved machine as
a. Heilmann embroidering machine, the following parts used in the case of
continuous operations are disconnected from the other parts. In the combined
machines shown in Fig VII and operating as a. Heilmann machine, the needle
bars g and g, the presser...and the fixing rod mare pushed back, the shuttle
bars p and p¹ being removed from their places by reason of the rotation, of the
shafts qand q The mechanism for the periodical motion of the parts which effect
the embroidering by means of the shuttle (also with a continuous thread) remaius

page_text: stationary; the needles with their threads (about 1m in length) such as are used
for ordinary embroidery are then brought under the clamps or holders.
The ordinary boring and festooning apparatus can be used when required with
this improved machine, and all kind of embroidery which cannot be performed on
a shuttle machine can be effected on this improved machine.
By thus combining, two well known machines there is obtained in a simple
manner the full advantages of both in one.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
In machinery or apparatus for embroidering,
1. The combination in one machine of the essential parts of the Heilmann and
the shuttle machine, the whole being so arranged that the said machine may be
caused to operate either as a Heilmann or a shuttle machine at will substantially
as described.
i
2. The combination with a machine of the Heilmann' type of one or more move-
able needle bars such as g and g¹ arranged upon one of the carriages and of one or
more moveable shuttle bars such as p and p¹ arranged opposite the former substan-
tially as described.
3. In a combined Heilmann and shuttle machine the use in combination of the
shaft q, screw r and bearing 8 for the displacement of the shuttle bars substantially
as described.
•
4. The improved machine capable of being used either as a Heilmann or a shuttle
machine, constructed arranged and ‘operating substantially as described with
reference to the drawings..