IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Callebaut, Merchant, of 2, Rue Se Appoline,
Paris, in the Empire of France, and of 45, Essex Street, Strand, London,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,"
Sealed the 1st February 1859, and dated the 4th August 1858.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Callebaut at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
4th August 1858.
I, CHARLES CALLEBAUT, Merchant, of 2, Rue SAppoline, Paris, in the
Empire of France, and of 45, Essex Street, Strand, London, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to
be as follows, and consists,-
1stly, in a mechanical arrangementwhich allows to use mysewing machines
for sewing sails, sacks, and other strong articles, by means of supports bringing
and directing the heavy materials to be sewn.
2ndly, in the transformation of the machines sewing with one thread into
machines sewing with a shuttle or two threads without the change being
costly. This is effected by substituting a. shuttle-holder to the hook-holder,
Price 8d.]

page_text: and in making use of the rotation of the main shaft for giving the motion to
the shuttle-holder by means of gears or excentrics.
3rdly, in a modification made to the shuttle-holder, which prevents the
shuttle to ascend, and gives to it a size and a speed as great as it can be
desired. This is obtained by making a pan in the shuttle on the side of the
point, and by placing into it the crooked end of the driver.
4thly, in modifications in the shape of the shuttle to be worked with the
shuttle-holder, and the addition of an outside spring, destined to direct the
thread when leaving the eyes of the shuttle, and the use of a rod and ring
inside the shuttle for forcing the thread to maintain always the angle
desired.
5thly,in the application of a stopping branch and bridles, destined to stretch
simultaneously the thread of the needle, so that it may be perfectly supple at
the instant of the formation of the knot, and stretched when it is to be
tightened. This stopping branch is drawn by the needle-holder when
descending, and it is stopped before the said needle-holderhasentirely accom-
plished its ascending movement.
6thly, in the disposition and shape of the click serving to move the fabric
the distance required after each stitch,and to keep the work while it is sewn.
The new shape of the click allows to sew the finest or softest fabrics as well as
the coarsest and most resisting ones; it is worked by means of an excentric
placed upon the upper main shaft; it may be grooved or hollowed, so as to
allow the sewing of rounded parts, such as the edges of hats, &c.
7thly, in a hollow made in the plate, called needles' guide, which allows to
use threads relatively stronger, and avoids the necessity of cutting them.
Sthly, in the use of needles perfectly round, the flutings being made with a
buriu or a cutter.
.
9thly, in the use of a pressure roller, worked by means of a pedal, for setting
in motion, stopping, or regulating the speed of the sewing machines, which by
this means may be worked by any motive power.
10th, in working the shuttle and the hook by means of a connecting rod
placed upon the main shaft instead of an excentric.
11th, in the disposition of a tool completing the machine, and destined to
make the special needles employed for this kind of machines. This tool
consists in a pincer for holding the needle, a cutter for making the flutings,
and a punch for making the holes.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles Callebaut in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
4th February 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
CALLEBAUT, Merchant, of 2, Rue Ste Appoline, Paris, in the Empire of France,
and of 45, Essex Street, Strand, London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-second year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Charles Callebaut, Her special licence that I, the said Charles
Callebaut, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Charles Callebaut, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Chaunel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Charles Callebaut; my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Callebaut, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
My Invention consists in improvements made to several of the parts of
sewing machines, as hereafter described.
Motion of the Shuttle.-Until now, in the machines sewing with a hook or
ashuttle, the rectilineal movement of these parts has been obtained by means
of excentrics. I propose to substitute a connecting rod and a crank to the
said excentrics.
In Figs. 1 and 2 it will be seen that the lower main shaft a of the machine
bears at its extremity a crank b, which gives the motion to the connecting
rod c. This connecting rod actuates the piece d fixed to the shuttle-holder.

page_text: This arrangement produces a softer and more regular movement than by
using an excentric. I have adapted to the frame of the machine a small
spooling wheel or reel s. The rotatory motion may be imparted to it by means
of an endless band placed on the fly wheel, and passing over the pulley t. By
means of this reel I can supply the bobbins which feed the needles or the
bobbins of the shuttle.
Shuttle. In the existing shuttles and shuttle-holders there are serious
defects, the shuttle being merely placed upon the shuttle-holder, and not
being kept in its groove, when it is desired to augment the speed of the
machine the shuttle has a tendency to ascend and to leave the groove; this
forces the machines to work at a small speed. And with shuttles of a small
size, to avoid this rising of the shuttle, I have made on the side of the point
a lateral pan c, Figs. 5, 6, and 7, which has for its object to receive the bent
part of the shuttle-holder, and consequently to maintain the shuttle in its
groove principally at the instant the thread is retaken. For producing a
regular stitch it is necessary to have the thread well stretched at right angles,
and near the place of operation. I obtain this result by adding a spring a
Figs. 3 and 4, to the shuttles. The shuttle is not changed, only the thread
leaving the bobbin and passing through one or several of the eyes b slides
along this spring up to its extremity, and from there it goes at right angles to
its point of operation. The spring is bent at its extremity, and is inserted
into the shuttle a sufficient length to hold the thread when it is much
stretched. This arrangement allows to tie more tightly the stitch, and to sew
leather and other strong materials.
Use of several needles.-I can produce several rows of stitches by using
several needles placed side by side, according the distance which it is
desired to keep between each row. Each needle has its thread, and
underneath the loop or knot is formed by a shuttle or its equivalent. Small
metallic bands are disposed between the needles to prevent the material
puckering.
Fastening. Chain stitch. One of the defects of the ma chines sewing with
one thread is the insecurity of this kind of sewing, called chain stitch; since,
of the material is cut in a transverse direction to the seam, the stitches will be
undone from end to end, as the thread is not knotted. To remedy this, I
make use of the arrangement represented in Figs. 8, 9, and 10, by means of
which I am enabled to form a knot at the end of a certain number of stitches.
I have supposed here that a knot is made at every eight stitches, so that if
the material was cut across the seam there would be at most only eight

page_text: stitches which could become unravelled or withdrawn. This arrangement is
as follows: Against the frame A I fix to supports n, in which is mounted
an axis o, which is prevented from turning too freely by means of a spring.
This axis bears a ratchet wheel p, having the same number of teeth that it is
desired to have stitches between two knots or stops. Another ratchet wheel
is fixed to the axis D, which at each revolution of this shaft causes the wheel
to advance of one tooth. This wheel bears a button a, which every eight
stitches (as the case may be) meets the prolongation I' of the lever I, and
pushes it forward, so as its lower extremity will press against the feed-motion
h. The lever I, preventing the recoil of the feed-motion, prevents likewise
the next movement of progression, and consequently the advance of the fabric.
It results from this, that the needle will descend again in the same hole as in
its preceding movement, and this will produce a knot or stop. After this the
ratchet q forces the wheelp to make an eighth of a revolution, and the button
being no more opposite the piece I', the advance of the fabric will be
resumed for the eight stitches following by means of the oscillations of the
feed-motion.
Transformation of the machines sewing with one thread into machines with
shuttles, and vice versa.-I have invented several simple combinations for
effecting this transformation, but I shall only describe a few of them. It is
known that the movement of the hook has stoppages, which the shuttle has
not. Fig. 11 represents a machine with hook. For transforming it into a
machine with shuttle I take away the excentric which causes the stoppage,
and substitute for it an excentric, which will give the motion of the shuttle.
I substitute a shuttle-holder for the hook-holder, and by means of a button
and a connection rod I obtain the required result. I can also allow the
excentric to remain as it is, as represented in Fig. 12. In this case I
lengthen only the shaft a, so as to permit it to receive on its prolongation an
angle pinion b, gearing with the second pinion c, placed on one of the inside
lateral faces of the machine. This pinion c bears a button d, having for
object to work the connecting rod e, the other end of which is fixed to the
shuttle-holder f, substituted for the hook-holder. With this disposition, when
it is desired to produce seams with the hook, it will suffice to place the hook-
holder, and to engage its button in the excentric. As it is necessary in
mounting the hook-holder to take away the shuttle-holder and the contrecting
rod, the pinions may turn without producing any effect or preventing the
work of the hook. If it is desired now to work with the shuttle machine, a
shuttle-holder is substituted for the hook-holder, and the shuttle-holder is put

page_text: in communication with the pinion c by means of the connecting rod e, the
shuttle receiving its movement from the gearing, whilst the hook receives it
from the excentric. I can also, instead of the excentric with outside gorge,
make use of an excentric with circular groove, Fig. 13. This groove is
excentred, and by means of the lever ; of the button and the square, I
obtain the alternate rectilineal movement of the shuttle-holder. I could also
make use of the arrangement shewn in Fig. 14. A craukis placed at the
end of the shaft a, and actuates a connecting rod m, fixed to a square n, one
branch of which moves the shuttle-holder. Those three modes will suffice to
show, the several arrangements which I could make use of for producing the
object required, as I require only a combination of each of the well-known
mechanical combinations, viz. :-Fig. 11, excentrics; Fig. 12, gearing:
But
Fig. 13, excentrics and levers; Fig. 14, a crank and a connecting rod.
it will be understood that upon these principles I can make a number of other
combinations.
Machines for sewing sail-cloth and other fabrics of large size.-Until now it
has been considered impossible to sew mechanically the sails for ships orother
fabrics of large size, not because the seam was considered bad, but because of
the great weight of the articles to be sewn. Fig. 15 represents a machine
for sewing sails and other similar articles. I have supposed here a machine
with dragging wheel, but it will be understood that I can use any other
system. The movement is communicated to this wheel by a shaft a, upon
which is placed an excentric b, acting against a lever c, of which the axis d
bears the adjusting lever, the hook regulating the stitch and the several
pieces depending upon it. For sewing sails or articles of large size, I
lengthen the shaft d, so that it passes through the exterior side of the frame.
Upon this shaft is wedged a lever bearing a mechanism similar to that
working the dragging wheel, and by this means the shaft d actuates this
wheel as well as the roller e¹. The length of the stitches is regulated in the
same manner as the feed wheel near the needle by means of the screw f. It
will be seen.that when the length of stitch is adjusted, the dragging movement
will be made simultaneously between the wheel placed near the needle and
the wheel placed at the extremity of the roller e' extending the whole length
of the machine. The fabric being rolled upon the roller g, is conducted under
the needle by the feed-wheel placed near it, and as it is sewn it is rolled upon
the roller e', furnished with points in all its length. These points project
sufficiently from the roller for taking hold of the material, thus assisting the
action of the feed. It must be understood that I can combine other diş-

page_text: positions for sewing with other systems of machines, and that I can employ
other means than the feed-wheel for producing the same object.
Machines worked by steam or other power.-I will now describe the means
which I propose to make use of for working the sewing machines with any
motive power.
I suppose a main shaft, extending the whole or part of the
length of a factory, and working several machines; it bears a pulley / for
cach machine, upon which passes an endless band n, communicating the
notion to the pulley m of the machine. The endless band n is not stretched,
so that the pullies mounted upon the main shaft may turn without actuating
the pullies n of the machine. When it is desired to work a machine, the
operator presses upon a pedal o, which works the lever p. To this lever is
attached the rod q, fixed to a square r, having for object to stretch the
endless band n. It will be seen that if the pedal o is pressed but slightly,
there will be a certain sliding of the band upon the pullies, and a greater
pression will augment the speed of the pulley mounted upon the main shaft.
Although I can make use of a break on the gearing wheels or of friction
wheels for working the sewing machines by means of steam or other power,
I think the mode described preferable, which consists in stretching more or
less the endless band, which regulates the speed of the machine according to
the work to be done, whatever be the speed of the main shaft; and I claim
the principle of this arrangement as my Invention, it being understood that
I can vary both it and the mechanism.
Illow in the plate called needle-guide. For sowing sails and other strong
articles it is necessary to employ a thread of a thick diameter, but until now
the smallness of the shuttles has been a serious obstacle, since they could only
contain a small quantity of thread. To render possible the use of a shuttle
of large size, I form under the plate called needle-guide, Figs. 16, 17, 18,
and 19, a lodging or hollow a, in which the crossing of the threads is made
freely, and without any pressure, which causes the threads to break.
Improved feed-motion.-In the sewing machines now in use the feed-
motion usually consists of a rectilineal branch bent at its lower extremity,
which presses upon the fabric, leaving the needle uncovered. My improve-
inent consists in giving to this piece the shape represented in Figs. 20
and 21. This formn allows the sight of the needle, and the lateral
part holds
the fabric. For sewing rounded parts, such as the rim of hats, heins, or
other similar works, the under part of the feed may be suitably grooved or
hollowed.
Employment of the feed-motion for machines sewing with a shuttle.-Until

page_text: now the feed has been used only in the machines sewing with one thread;
the machines sewing with a shuttle have only a pressing piece. I propose to
substitute the improved feed to this pressing piece. For sewing leather or
thick fabrics, I make use of a moveable feed-motion and a dragging-wheel
combined together, as shown in Fig. 22.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Callebaut, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of January, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine.
Witness,
CH FRED VASSEROT,. (L.S.)
45, Essex Street, Strand,
Patent Agent.
CALLEBAUT.
(L.S)