Improvements in Dress-makers' Dummies.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Aug., 1893-Accepted, 25th Nov., 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Dress-makers' Dummies.
I, NATALIE SCHELL, residing at 616 Eddy Street, in the City and County of
San Francisco, State of California, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of my invention is to provide a former which will be an exact
counterpart in measurement, of the human bust, so as to insure the making of
clothes thereon, which when completed will fit perfectly, with only requirement of
such alterations as would be necessitated if fitted to the person direct as a model;
and further in allowing for ready and easy adjustment of parts so as to permit
changing of size and measurements in accordance with varying changes of the
person.
Referring to the drawings forming a part of this application, wherein similar
letters of reference denote corresponding parts throughout the entire Specification
and several views―
Figure 1, is a perspective view of my improved former;
Figure 2, a front view of the back section showing manner of adjustably
connecting the sections together so as to allow for increase or decrease of the bust
measurement; and
Figure 3, a detail view of the arm detached from the bust.
In carrying out my invention I first measure or secure the bust of the person, by
fitting thereto a jacket composed of heavy base material, such as cotton or any
suitable fabric cloth, which I afterward take apart in sections or quarters A, and to
which is stitched or secured a more permanent backing, preferably of wire gauze, B.
This backing enables me to give the proper bend or curves to the cloth in order
when properly united, as hereinafter more fully set forth, a perfect form of the
human bust will be produced. After securing the cloth and backing together, the
two are united to the vertical and cross metallic strips, C, C¹, which serves to give
proper rigidity to the sections in order to prevent displacement of curves, etc., in
handling. These strips are provided with a series of apertures or openings c,
through which pass bolts or screws b, in order to unite the parts together. When
thus secured or united the bust sections are formed, each being similar, which are
united or secured together by means of pieces or strips D, as clearly shown in
Figures 1 and 2. These strips or pieces are provided with a series of openings or
holes e, placed a predetermined distance apart, say, one-quarter of an inch.
each section is secured together the entire bust is formed, which is further
braced or strengthened by means of cross pieces E, preferably made sliding or
adjustable.
When
The bust is constructed in four sections, F, which as before stated, are united by
the strips D, and inasmuch as these strips are provided with a series of openings
an equi-distance apart, it is obvious that in case the form of the person increases
or decreases, the bust former may be regulated to correspond therewith, by
adjusting the connecting strips D, forward or backward. The distance between
the holes being, say, one-quarter inch, forward or backward adjustment one space
will increase or decrease the size of the former one inch. The outer vertical and
curved strengthening strips C, serve to reinforce the edges of the cloth and wire
backing, while upper and lower cross strips C¹, do likewise for top and bottom
edges. The cross braces or pieces E, being sliding or adjustable, it is obvious that
same will readily give to in or out movement of the bust sections.
The bust form is, by preference, mounted or secured upon an adjustable base or
stand, which consists of strips F, connected to the bottom of bust, as shown.

page_text: These strips are held together so as to prevent spreading, by means of band f, and
are strengthened by supporting strips 1, shown in Figure 1. The bottoms or
Jower ends of strips F', are connected by cross pieces, the upturned ends f³, of
which are provided with holes e², so as to allow of adjustability in order to raise or
lower the stand. To the bust form are secured the arms each by means of spring g,
which, while being of sufficient resiliency to hold the same in place allows of free
movement thereof.
The arms are formed in parts or sections connected together in a manner similar
to those of the bust, but by preference, in two sections, which are adjustably
united by cross pieces or strips g', similar to the bust sections. The lower section H₁,
of the arm, is united to upper section H, by springs h, so as to permit of free
movement and bend to be given. By thus connecting the arm, the same is allowed
natural movement in order to permit of perfect fit being assured, and by means of
its adjustability of parts, the same may be increased or decreased in accordance
with change in the arm of person.
The wrist H2, is connected to the arm by springs ', and by means of the cord h³,
the arm may be held or secured in any desired position, by merely drawing the
same taut and securing lower ends together, inasmuch as upper ends pass through
sections H, H', as shown in Figure 3.
By my improved former I am enabled to secure a perfect counterpart of the
person's bust, and at the same time permit of adjustability so as to correspond with
natural changes of the person's form, thus obviating the necessity of purchasing
new form as the body increases or decreases. In order to secure desired change it
is only necessary to measure the person and bust, thence properly adjust same by
moving connecting strips in or out.
I am aware that minor changes may be made in the arrangement of parts and
details of construction herein shown and described, without necessitating or creating
a departure from the nature and scope of my invention.
Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure
protection in by Letters Patent is-
1. In a bust former, the combination with the sections thereof, of strengthening
strips or ribs for maintaining the form in position, as and for the purpose set forth.
2. In a bust former, the combination with the sections thereof adjustably secured
together, said sections consisting of a suitable base united to a stiff backing, and of
the strengthening strips or ribs for maintaining the form in position, as and for the
purpose set forth.
3. In a former, the combination with the sections thereof adjustably united, the
strengthening ribs secured to the inside thereof, and of adjustable or sliding cross
braces for strengthening the completed bust form, as and for the purpose set forth.
4. The combination with a former composed of a series of sections adjustably
connected, of the movable arms, secured thereto, said arms adapted to permit of
movement corresponding in curve to the natural arm, as and for the purpose set
forth.
5. A bust former, composed of a flexible base connected to strengthening strips
or ribs so as to form bust sections, which are united together adjustably so as to
allow for increase or decrease of the bust measurement, as and for the purpose set
forth.
6. A bust former consisting of sections composed of a flexible base suitably
strengthened and adjustably united together so as to allow for increase or decrease
measurement of the bust, as and for the purpose set forth.
7. A bust former consisting of sections composed of flexible base suitably
strengthened, said sections being adjustably connected together so as to allow for
increase or decrease measurement of the bust, and of the braces for strengthening
the completed form and rigidly holding the same, as and for the purpose set forth.
8. The combination with the bust former, of the arms movably connected
thereto, said arms composed of sections adjustably secured together and having the

page_text: upper and lower sections of the arm proper, movably fastened so as to allow the
natural bend of the arm to be imparted, as and for the purpose set forth.
9. The combination with a bust former, substantially as set forth, of the arms
movably connected thereto, said arms composed of sections adjustably secured
together, the upper and lower part of the arm and wrist being secured by a spring
connection, as and for the purpose set forth.
10. A bust former composed of a series of independent sections, each section
comprising two plies of material, the inner ply being of greater rigidity than that
of the outer, said plies being separably attached to re-inforcing ribs, and means for
adjustably connecting the edges of the sections.
11. A bust form composed of a series of independent sections, each section
comprising two plies of material, the inner ply being of greater rigidity than the
outer, of the re-inforcing ribs, and of means for adjustably connecting the edges of
the sections.
Dated this 19th day of April 1895.
NATALIE SCHELL.
W. P. Thompson & Boult,
Agents for the Applicant.
NATALIE SCHELL.
W. P. Thompson & Boult,
Agents for the Applicant.