IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery-
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING."-A communication from.
abroad by Alphonse Goullioud, Stay Manufacturer,, of 18, Boulevart
St Martin Paris
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION. left by the said 'Alexander Melville
Clark at the Office of the Commissioners. of Patents, with his
Petition,, on the 9th July 1868.
I, ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING," to be
as follows:-
This Invention relates to improvements more especially applicable-
to looms for weaving corsets, gaiters, and other articles of irregular_
form, which improvements are also applicable to other kinds of looms..
The improvements consist, 1st, in an improved combined: arrange

page_text: ment of temple or stretcher and take-up; 2ndly, in an improved
arrangement of thread winding shuttle; 3rdly, in an improved arrange-
ment of warp thread bobbin.
Temple. It is well known that in weaving corsets, gaiters, and such
like articles of irregular form the weft is first passed across the entire
width of the warp foundation, and in making the neck or hip of a stay,
for example, the threads are woven to the right or left of the warp, as
shown in Figure 14 of the Drawings accompanying this description,
that is to say, the weft as the weaving proceeds is passed through a
gradually decreasing number of warp threads so as to form a gusset
1, 2, 3. The weft is then again passed through the whole breadth of
the warp, a second gusset made, and so on until a sufficient number are
formed to obtain the necessary fulness at the neck or hip of the stay.
In weaving these parts by machinery great difficulty is experienced
in taking up the fabric, as all the warp threads cannot be taken up at
the same speed; those in which the weft docs not pass are not taken
up, but only those where it passes, so that after the formation of the
gusset the weft may pass in a straight line throughout the breadth of
the warp. In hand work the operator simply draws the fabric at the
side at which the gusset is produced, but this method is imperfect,
inasmuch as it tends to bring all the warps on this side, while it is
impracticable in machine looms. In the latter regulating rollers have
been employed for taking up the fabric, consisting of a number of small
rollers of the same diameter mounted on the same axis turning
independently of cach other. These rollers divide the warp foundation
into a certain number of parts, and are turned from time to time by
the aid of the jacquard. When the weft passes through all the warp
threads the rollers revolve at equal speeds and take up the full width
of fabric, and when on the contrary the weft only passes on one side
of the fabric through a certain number of the warp threads, the cards
of the jacquard are pierced so that those rollers only turn which are
opposite the warp threads, through which the weft has passed and tako
up that portion of the fabric only. The connection of this system of
regulator with the jacquard produces a complication of the mechanism,
which is a disadvantage when weaving, as supposing 40 hooks are
required for operating the forty regulators working independently of
each other to form the gussets, it may happen, by reason of a disarrange-
ment of the jacquard mechanism, that some of the hooks will not catch

page_text: or pierce the card, producing a draft which is very undesirable.. In
this case an opening would be left in the fabric, and supposing the hook
were not raised a lump would be formed by the fabric being drawn
together: Further, in order to facilitate the operation, supposing the
width of the jacquard requires 40 cards for. raising, the levers of the
regulators, it is difficult to pass. the hand through to connect any of
the warp.threads.which may break.
In the improved take-up of this Invention all the above disad-.
vantages are obviated'; it is also completely independent of the jacquard;.
thus simplifying the mechanism, and is driven by the aid of the batten
or shuttle-actuating mechanism.
The apparatus consists of any suitable number of keys or plates
of copper, cast iron, wood; or other material' provided with needle points,.
which keys are raised and lowered at the desired time so as to penetrator
the fabric from underneath and for taking it up at the desired* time:.
In this manner I completely avoid the objections attending the present.
mode of weaving these articies, in which the fabric in being taken up.
is required to be gripped as near as possible to the reed, and this for-
the following reasons:-When in order to form the neck or hip of a
stay a certain number of gussets liave been woven necessary for the
formation of one or the other, the warp foundation, generally by the-
effect of tlie, weaving, tends either to the right or left, according to the
form of the gusset, and becomes displaced from its original position.
Thus if regulating, rollers governed by the jacquard be employed for
taking up the fabric and the warp threads should become changed in.
position some of the rollers would be turned by the jacquard and take-
up those warp threads in which the weft has not passed, so causing
irregularity in the weaving. Further, these rollers do not permit of the
fabric being gripped near enough to the reed to prevent its being drawn
on one side or the other, and there always exists a space between the
line of contact with the take-up rollers and the reed which increases
in direct proportion to the diameter of the rollers. The formation of
the several gussets required for making the hip or neck of the stay
produces many folds in the material, which are liable to be cut in passing
under the take-up rollers, while they prevent more or less the obtaining
of a straight line necessary in weaving, as in consequence of the space
above referred to the rollers can only grip the material at a certain
distance from the apex of the angle formed by the gusset

page_text: In the take-up gear of this Invention the fabric is left exposed, being
gripped from below, so that any defects in the weft may be easily
corrected by causing the fabric to move back to the reed and then
replacing it by hand on the needle points in its normal position after
Correcting the defect. This cannot be readily effected in other systems
where the fabric passes between grooved or other take-up rollers which
require to be rotated in a retrograde direction in order to remedy a
defective weft thread. This difficulty is further increased if one or
more defects in the weft occur during the weaving of a gusset, as there
is a liability in turning the rollers which correspond to these defects
of producing a further irregularity in the weaving.
The take-up gear of this Invention is composed, as above mentioned,
of metallic or other plates, which I term keys, provided at their ends witle
one, two, or more needles or steel points for penetrating the fabric from
underneath at less than Tyth of an inch from the reed. All these
keys are movable, being fitted to oscillate on a fixed axis, and caused
to rise and fall by means of an eccentric shaft for the purpose of
penetrating the fabric. These keys are divided into two series, tho onc
simply rising and falling, while the other scrics, in addition to this
movement, has a horizontal movement for the purpose of taking up the
fabric. The oscillating or rising and falling motion of the two scrics
of koys is produced as above mentioned by means of an eccentric or cam
shaft actuated by the shaft giving motion to the batten, while the sliding
motion of the second series is produced by the action of the shuttlo
driving gear or batten conjointly with the formation of the weft and by the
aid of counterbalance weights acting on said keys. A great advantage
attending the use of this improved system is, that if the warp threads
become displaced in weaving a gusset the weft threads will only cause
those keys to slide which are opposite to them for taking up the fabric
at that part only, which cannot be effected when employing regulators
operated by means of the jacquard, as before explained.
From the foregoing it will be readily understood that it is the fabric
itself which regulates the take-up, as will be herein-after further explained.
In order to facilitate the explanation of the improvements I
will suppose that all the odd keys will form the first series having
oscillating motion on a fixed axis, and the even keys will form a second
series having a like oscillating motion and also sliding horizontally for
taking up the fabric. For this purpose the even keys are supplied with

page_text: oval eyes through which passes the shaft serving to carry the same.
Thus it will be understood that each sliding key will be placed between
two keys having oscillating motion, and that each of the latter will be
placed between two sliding keys, or the relative action of the oscillating.
and sliding keys' may. be reversed. The fabric is perforated either by
one or both series of keys at a time, and the part for transmitting motion
to said keys, viz., the cam cylinder, is so arranged that the oscillating
and sliding series of keys shall penetrate the fabric only at the desired
time in order that the fabric may be taken up by their sliding motion.
Each of these keys is 'provided with a balance weight to permit of its
sliding on the fixed axis. All the warp threads are supplied from
bobbins arranged as herein-after described disposed at back of the loom,
each containing a series of warp threads whose motion is independent
one of the other. Each warp bobbin is provided with a counterbalance
for keeping the threads in tension in a reverse sense to that produced by
the weights of the even keys above mentioned.
In order to facilitate the explanation of the improvements I will divide
the action of the keys into four movements, first, the keys corresponding
to the odd numbers are raised by oscillating them on their fixed axis
so as to penetrate the fabric close up to the reed; secondly, the keys
corresponding to even numbers oscillate in turn on their fixed axis and
penetrate the fabric, replacing those above mentioned, which now fall;
at this moment two throws of the weft have taken place. At the third"
movement the odd keys are again presented and penetrate the fabric at.
the same point as the even keys; the weft is then again thrown. At
the fourth movement the even keys again enter the fabric.at same time
that the weft is thrown, producing a fold in the fabric between the reed
and point where the needle points enter by the action of the reed or stay,
the motion of which is uniform; at this moment the even keys, which
are each provided with a counterbalance weight and have each an
elongated eye, are caused to recedė by the action of said weight on the
fixed axis, since the action of the balance weights of the warp bobbins is
neutralized by the position of the reed, which beats up the weft and so
stretch the fabric. The odd keys then recommence their first movement
of entering the fabric close to the reed, the even keys are moved back for
executing the second movement, and so on. In weaving at one side
only of the fabric the same effect is produced at that part through which
the weft passes, there not being any fold produced (and consequently
the equilibrium of the balance weights of the warp beam and keys

page_text: cannot be disturbed) except at the point where the weft passes. In
weaving the whole width of the fabric the fold being formed of equal
width all the even keys will be operated by said fold and the fabric be
uniformly taken up. Thus the distinctive feature of the improved take-
up gear consists in its being set in operation by the fabric itself according
to the width of the weaving.
The improved take-up gear of this Invention is illustrated in the
accompanying Drawings, Figure 1 of which shows a cross sectional
-elevation of same on line 1, 2, Figure 3. Figure 2 shows in end view
the mode of transmitting motion to the various parts. Figure 3 is a
front view, and Figure 4 a plan of the apparatus. The left-hand side
of Figure 3 shows the apparatus complete, while on the other side the
balance weights of the keys are removed. On the left-hand side of
Figure 4 both series of keys are shown in the raised position, while on
the right I have removed the roller serving to lower the odd keys in
order to show the two series, the even keys being drawn back. Figure 5
shows a separate view of the relative position of the keys, one being
lowered and the other raised for producing the take-up desired. Figure 6
'shows the keys in the position they occupy after drawing out the fold.
Figures 7 and 8 show the fabric and the ends of the keys on a larger
scale than in Figures 5 and 6. Figure 9 shows a separate view of the
eccentric or cam cylinder for producing the rise and fall of the two series
of keys. In this Figuro the keys are shown in section on line 7, 8,
Figure 5, the odd keys being lowered and the even keys raised. Figure 10
shows a transverse section of the cam cylinder on line 3, 4, Figure 9;
and Figure 11 a similar section on line 5, 6, Figure 9. Figure 12 shows
a portion of the cam roller used for bringing the even keys to their
normal position after the fabric has been taken up. Figure 13 is a
transverse section of the same on line 9, 10, Figure 12. Lastly, Figure 14
shows the mode of weaving a gusset. The same reference letters and
figures apply to the same parts in the several Figures.
A, odd keys; B, even keys cach made of plates of wood, iron, copper,
or other suitable material fitted to oscillate on a fixed axis C sup-
ported in bearings or cheek plates D forming the end frames of the
take-up apparatus, which are fixed in any suitable position at the
front E of the loom. The keys A, B, are each provided with a pro-
jecting end or nose a, b, at the end of which are placed the pins or
points c for penetrating the fabric from underneath close up to the

page_text: same on
reed. d, elongated eye made in each of the keys B for mounting the
fixed shaft 0; e, f, g, h, rectangular opening made in keys A, B,
in which is placed the cam shaft F, Figures 9, 10, and 11, turning
in frames D. This shaft. F is made of the same diameter. as the
depth e, f, of the orifice in the keys, and is provided with two series
of circular projections or cam surfaces i, j, serving to raise and lower
the keys. These cam surfaces are each made to occupy a little less
than half the circumference of the cylinder, and are connected by two
parts 5, 6, Figures 10 and 11. These cams form relief surfaces on.
cylinder F, which are arranged in such manner that the one serics
may be on one side of the cylinder and the other series on the opposite
side. By this means it will be readily understood that during half a
revolution of cylinder F the cams i will raise the keys corresponding
therewith, while the intermediate keys resting in the spaces between
will remain in position. When the plane 5, 6, is presented the whole
of the keys will be raised, as scen in Figure 1, and penetrate the fabric,
while during the remaining half revolution of the cylinder the keys
previously raised will fall into the spaces and those before lowered will
be raised by the cam surfaces j. By combining the parts and move-
ments in this manner it will be seen that the fabric is never released, one
series of keys entering alternately with the other, while during the time
they rest on the parts 5, 6, they are both in the fabric at the same time.
Each key B is provided at its rear end with a hook k, to which is attached
the end of the cord passing round a pulley m. n, counterbalance weight
fixed at the lower end of each of the cords for producing the sliding
motion of the keys B on their fixed axis. G, shaft mounted at the rear end
of the keys and provided with cams o corresponding in number to the
keys B, and pressing against them when taking up the fabric; p, projection
formed on the rear end of cach key B bearing against cams o. From
the foregoing it will be seen that the keys A have oscillating motion
imparted to them from cylinder F, while keys B besides their rotary
motion are capable of sliding on their fixed shaft. All the keys are in.
contact one with the other, the one series B being lowered by the
balance weights n, and the other series A by means of a reed H pivotted
to framing D, the teeth of which reed are equal in number to the keys A,
it being caused to oscillate at the desired time in order to bear
simultaneously on each of the keys.
:
It should be understood that the mode of transmitting motion from
the batten to the parts F, G, H, may be varied, one arrangement being

page_text: shown in the Drawing, which I will now describe. I, lever provided with
a pawl J gearing with a ratchet wheel K. This lever receives motion
from a rod L connected to the arm of the batten. M, toothed wheel fixed
to ratchet K, and transmitting rotary motion to a toothed wheel N keyed
on the end of cylinder F by the aid of pinion O; P, toothed wheel keyed
on the end of cylinder G, and receiving motion from wheel M by the aid
of pinion Q; R, finger fixed on the boss of wheel P, which at each
revolution of the latter raises a lever S keyed on the end of reed II
for lowering the keys A. When the four motions of the keys
have been completed, as seen in Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, and four throws
of the weft have taken place, the batten T which has a uniform
motion produces a fold r in the fabric; at this moment the keys B
are in the raised position and keys A in the lowered position,
the reed pressing the fabric against the keys. In this manner
the equilibrium of the balance weights of the bobbin frame and of
weights n of the even keys is overcome, the latter in acting then
cause the eyes d to slide on the shaft O, while the projections p of
the keys enter the recesses in cams o and draw out the fold, as
seen at Figures 6 and 8; the cams o then act on the keys B,
while the odd keys again penetrate the fabric close up to the rccd
and so on.
It should be understood that I reserve the right of producing the
take-up motion with folds formed of three, four, five, or a greater number
of weft threads. The Invention thus consists in the improved com-
bined temple and "take-up" herein described and represented more
especially applicable to looms for weaving stay fabrics, gaiters, and other
similar articles of irregular form although it may be used in other kinds
of weaving. The apparatus consists of movable keys acting inde-
pendently of the jacquard and operated direct by the formation of the
weft entering the fabric from below.
I also reserve the right of varying the form and dimensions of the
keys and of communicating motion thereto in any suitable manner.
Thus instead of lowering the odd keys by means of the rced H, I
may use a cam cylinder similar to F, whereby both series of keys are
lowered alternately at the desired time; the counterbalances n may in
this case be greatly reduced in weight as they would merely
serve to produce the sliding motion of the even keys in taking up the
fabric.

page_text: Winding Shuttle. The Invention relates, secondly, to an improved
arrangement of shuttle for winding the thread.
It will be understood from the foregoing description that in order to
weave a gusset either to the right or left of the warp the shuttle (always
having the same extent of to-and-fro motion across the warp) unwinds
more thread than is required to form the weft of the said gusset.
By an improvement in the shuttle of this Invention I make it wind
the superfluous thread so as to keep it constantly in tension whether
weaving the whole breadth of the warp or at the right or left side only.
This improvement is also illustrated in the Drawings, Figure 15
showing a plan of the improved shuttle; Figure 16, a longitudinal section
on line 9, 10, Figure 15; Figure 17, a side view and Figure 18 a
transverse section of same on line 11, 12, Figure 16. The same letters
of reference apply to these four Figures.
a', shuttle which may be of any suitable form and arrangement;
6', spool carrying the weft threads shown in red lines; c', c¹, friction
rollers running in the shuttle race. The shuttle is further driven in
any suitable manner.
The improvement consists in disposing above one of the friction
rollers c¹ and in contact therewith another roller d¹ made of some heavy.
matter, such as lead, iron, or otherwise, so as to receive rotary motion by
it's frictional contact on the roller c' turning. Roller'd is provided with
a groove e and a lateral circular recess f¹ communicating with said
groove by means of a channel g¹, Figures 15 and 18. The thread from
the spool & passes round a hook and through an eye in the shuttle,
again entering the same at an eye j¹ in line with the axis of the winding
bobbin & through the circular recess f¹, channel g¹, out at another
cye k¹,
and thence to the warp, as seen in Figure 15. Supposing the shuttle
to move in the direction of the arrow 1, Figure 15, the friction rollers
c, c', turn in the direction of the arrows 2, 2, Figure 16, the winding
reel rotating in the direction indicated by the arrow 3 so as to coil
on its periphery the quantity of thread from 4 to K' unwound from
the shuttle in excess until by the motion of the shuttle the thread
is secured at 4 in the warp; at this moment the thread being retained
at point 4 will unwind from groove e¹ by rotating the reed d' in the
reverse direction to the arrow 3, and if the shuttle has to travel a
greater distance to reach the end of its course than the quantity of
thread unwound from the groove it will be drawn direct from the spool
in the direction before mentioned, 'complétely ärresting the motion of

page_text: reel d. When the shuttle returns in the reverse direction the same
effect is produced, the rollers c³, c', and a turning the reverse way to
that indicated by the arrows 2 and 3. is a plate or cover to prevent
roller escaping from the space m made in the shuttle while the
latter is in motion. I reserve the right of applying this system of
winding shuttle in looms for weaving all kinds of fabrics, including
corsets and other articles as before described, the shuttle having in all
cases an extent of motion exceeding the width of the warps.
Warp Bobbins.-Under the name of bobbin frame is generally desig-
nated the bobbins or beams placed at the back of the loom, each carrying
a series of warp threads. These are all conducted to the front of the
loom passing uniformly through the reed to form the warp founda-
tion. In this manner each series is rendered independent of the other,
the employment of such thread carriers being indispensable when using
the take-up gear of this Invention.
The improvements in the thread bobbins consist in a mode of keeping
the warp always at a uniform tension, whether the carrier be of larger
or smaller diameter, consequent on the unwinding of the thread. This
part of the Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawings,
Figure 19 showing a front view of the thread carrier and parts;
Figure 20, a side view of same; Figure 21, a side view of the bobbin
properly so called; and Figure 22, a side view of a portion of same.
The same letters apply to these four Figures.
n³, bobbin or thread carrier, the warp being shown in red lines; this
bobbin is formed of two cheeks, one of which is provided with a number
of projecting teeth o'. p', axis of bobbin n². q', Figure 22, part formed
of two flat plates placed at a suitable distance apart to permit of the
teeth o' entering between them. ", small pulley mounted at the upper
part between the plates q'; s', tic; , balance weight suspended at the
lower part of part q¹. The thread from bobbin n' passes over a roller or
rod u', and then descends in order to enter the groove of pulley s² so as
to keep part q¹ suspended; it then again rises and passes over a pulley
or rod to the reed in the direction of the arrow 5, the whole being
arranged as described supposing the weight and part q¹ to be equal
to 7 pounds, and the pin s¹ to rest on one of the teeth o'. The thread
being drawn in the direction of the arrow 5 will prevent the bobbin
from turning and giving off its thread in consequence of the obstacle
presented by part s'; the thread will thus raise the part q¹ until tooth i
is disengaged from pin s³, at which moment the weight acts, brings

page_text: down part q', and draws the thread, causing the bobbin to turn until
the next tooth o' abuts against the pin s¹. Thus, the tension exerted
on the. thread in the direction of the arrow 5 is always equal to the 7
pounds, it being simply necessary to raise part q', which alone serves
for effecting the drawing off of the thread from the bobbin. It is, as
before mentioned with reference to the take-up gear, when the equilibrium
of balance weights. t with those n¹ of the odd and even keys is-overcome
by the motion of the reed producing a fold in the fabric that said
weights n cause, the keys to slide in order to draw out this fold and
"take-up" the fabric. This system of thread tension regulator is
applicable to all kinds of looms.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Alexander Melville Clark in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 8th January 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALEXANDER
MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of July, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the
thirty-second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Alexander Melville Clark, Her
special licence that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Alexander
Melville Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING," a communication
to me from abroad by Alphonse Goullioud, Stay Manufacturer, of 13,
Boulevart St. Martin, Paris, upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature

page_text: of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the two
Sheets of Drawings hercunto annexed, and to the letters and figures
marked thereon (that is to say) :-
This Invention relates to improvements more especially applicable to
looms for weaving corsets, gaiters, and other articles of irregular form,
which improvements are also applicable to other kinds of looms.
The improvements consist, 1st, in an improved combined arrangment
of temple or stretcher and take-up; 2ndly, in an improved arrangement
of thread winding shuttle; 3rdly, in an improved arrangement of warp
thread bobbin.
Temple. It is well known that in weaving corsets, gaiters, and such
like articles of irregular form the weft is first passed across the entire
width of the warp foundation, and in making the neck or lip of the
stay, for example, the threads are woven to the right or left of the
warp, as shown in Figure 14 of the Drawings accompanying this
description, that is to say, the weft as the weaving proceeds is passed
through a gradually decreasing number of warp threads so as to form
a gusset 1, 2, 3. The weft is then again passed through the whole
breadth of the warp, a second gusset made, and so on until a sufficient
number are formed to obtain the necessary fulness at the neck or hip
of the stay. In weaving these parts by machinery great difficulty is
experienced in taking up the fabric, as all the warp threads cannot be
taken up at the same speed; those in which the weft does not pass arc
not taken up, but only those where it does pass, so that after the
formation of a gusset the weft may pass in a straight line throughout
the breadth of the warp. In hand work the operator simply draws the
fabric at the side at which the gusset is produced, but this method is
imperfect, inasmuch as it tends to bring all the warps on this side while
it is impracticable in machine looms. In the latter regulating rollers
have been employed for taking up the fabric, which consists of a number
of small rollers of the same diameter mounted on the same axis and

page_text: turning independently of each other. These. rollers divide the warp
foundation into a certain number of parts, and are turned from time to
time by the aid of the jacquard. When the weft passes through all
the
warp threads the rollers revolve at equal speeds and take up tho
full width of fabric, and when on the contrary the weft only passes on
one'side of the fabric through a certain number of warp threads, the
cards of the jacquard are pierced so that those rollers only turn which
are opposite the warp threads through which the weft has passed. and
take up that portion of the fabric only. The connection of this system
of regulator with the jacquard produces a complication of the
mechanism, which is a disadvantage when weaving, as supposing forty
hooks are required for operating these regulators working independently
of each other to form the gussets, it may happen, by reason of a dis-
arrangement of the, jacquard mechanism, that some of the hooks will
not catch or pierce the card, producing a draft which would be very
undesirable. In this caso an opening would be left in the fabric, and
supposing the hook were not raised a ridge would be formed by the
fabric being drawn together. Further, in order to facilitate the
operation, supposing the width of the jacquard requires forty cards for
raising the levers of the regulators it is difficult to pass the hand
through to connect any of the warp threads which may brake.
In the improved take-up apparatus of this Invention all the above
disadvantages are obviated; it is also completaly independent of the
jacquard, thus simplifying the mechanism, and is driven by the aid of
the batten or shuttle actuating mechanism.
The apparatus consists of any suitable number of keys or plates of
copper, cast iron, wood, or other material provided with needle points,
which keys are raised and lowered so as to penetrate the fabric from
underneath and also take it up at the desired time. In this manner I
completely avoid the objections attending the present mode of weaving
those articles, in which the fabric in being taken up is required to be
gripped as near as possible to the reed, and this for the following
reasons:-When in order to form the neck or hip of a stay a cortain
number of gussets have been woven necessary for the formation of one
or the other, the warp foundation generally by the effect of the weaving
tends either to the right or left, according to the form of the gusset, and
becomes displaced from its original position. Thus if regulating rollers
governed by the jacquard be employed for taking up the fabric and

page_text: the warp threads should become changed in position some of the rollers
would be turned by the jacquard and act on those warp threads in which
the weft has not passed, so causing irregularity in the weaving. Further,
these rollers do not permit of the fabric being grasped near enough to
the reed to prevent its being drawn on one side or the other, and there
always exists a space between the line of contact with the take-up rollers
and the reed which increases in direct proportion to the diameter of the
rollers. The formation of the several gussets required for making the
hip or neck of the stay produces many folds in the material which are
liable to be cut in passing under the take-up rollers, while they prevent
more or less the obtaining of a straight line necessary in weaving, as in
consequence of the space above referred to the rollers can only grasp
the material at a certain distance from the apex of the angle formed by
the gusset.
In the take-up gear of this Invention the fabric is left exposed, being
scized from below, so that any defects in the weft may be easily corrected
by causing the fabric to move back to the reed and then replacing it
by hand on the needle points in its normal position after correcting the
defect. This cannot be readily effected in other systems where the
fabric passes between grooved or other rollers which require to be rotated
in a retrograde direction in order to remedy a defective weft thread.
This difficulty is further increased if one or more defects in the weft
occurs during the weaving of a gusset, as only those rollers which
correspond to the defects can be turned without producing a further
irregularity in the weaving.
The take-up gear of this Invention is composed, as above mentioned,
of metallic or other plates, which I term keys, provided at their ends
with one, two, or more needles or steel points for penetrating the
fabric from underneath at less than one-sixteenth of an inch from the
recd. All these keys are movable, being fitted to oscillate on a fixed
axis and caused to rise and fall by means of an eccentric shaft for the
purpose of penetrating the fabric. These keys are divided into two
scries, the one simply rising and falling, while the other series in addition
to this have a horizontal movement for the purpose of taking up the
fabric. The oscillating or rising and falling motion of the two series of
keys is produced, as above mentioned, by means of an eccentric or cam
shaft actuated by the shaft giving motion to batten, while the sliding
motion of the second series is produced by the action of the shuttle

page_text: aving gear or putten conjointly with the formation of the weit and by
the aid of counterbalance weights acting on said keys. A great advantage
attending the use of this improved system is, that if the warp threads
become displaced in weaving a gusset the weft threads will only cause
those keys to slide which are opposite to them in order to produce
the take-up of the fabric at that part only, which cannot be effected
when employing regulators operated by means of the jacquard, as before
explained.
From the foregoing it will be readily understood that it is the
fabric itself which regulates the take-up gear, as will be hercin-after
explained.
In order to facilitate the explanation of the improvements I will
suppose that all the odd keys will form the first series having oscillating
motion on a fixed axis, and the remaining keys will form a second series
having a like oscillating motion and also sliding horizontally for taking
up the fabric. For this purpose the even keys are supplied with oval
eyes through which passes the shaft serving to carry the same. Thus it
will be understood that each sliding key will be placed between two keys
having oscillating motion only, and that each of the latter will be placed
between two sliding keys, or the relative action of the oscillating and
sliding keys may be reversed. The fabric is penetrated' either by one
or both series of keys at a time, and the part for transmitting motion to
said keys, viz., the cam cylinder, is so arranged that the oscillating and
sliding series of keys shall penetrate the fabric only at the desired time
in order that the fabric may be taken up by their sliding motion. Each
of these latter keys is provided with. a balance weight to permit of its
sliding on the fixed axis. All the warp threads are supplied from a
bobbin frame arranged as herein-after described disposed at the back of
the loom and provided with a suitable number of warp bobbins, each
containing a series of warp threads whose motion is independent one of
the other. Each warp bobbin is provided with a counterbalance for
keeping the thread in tension in a reverse sense to that produced by the
weights of the keys above mentioned.
In order to facilitate the explanation of the improvements I will
divide the action of the keys into four movements, first, the keys
corresponding to odd numbers are raised by oscillating them on their
fixed axis so as to penetrate the fabric close up to the reed; secondly,
the keys corresponding to even numbers oscillate in turn on their fixed

page_text: axis and penetrate the fabric, replaced those above mentioned which
now fall; at this moment two throws of the weft have taken place..
At the third movement the odd keys are again presented and penetrate
the fabric at the same point as the even keys; the weft is then again
"thrown." At the fourth movement the even keys again enter the
fabric at same time that the weft is "thrown," producing a fold in the
fabric between the rced and the point where the needles enter by the
action of the reed or sley, the motion of which is uniform. At this
moment the even keys, which are each provided with a counterbalance
weight and have each an elongated eye, are allowed to recede by the
action of said weight on the fixed axis, while the action of the balance
weights of the warp bobbins is neutralized by the position of the recd
which beats up the weft and so stretches the fabric. The odd keys
then recommence their first movement of entering the fabric close to
the reed, the even keys are moved back for executing the second move-
ment, and so on. In weaving at one side only of the fabric the same.
effect is produced at that part through which the weft passes, there not
being any fold produced (consequently the equilibrium of the balance
weights of the warp bobbins and keys cannot be disturbed) except at
the part where the weft passes. In weaving the whole width of the
fabric the fold will be formed of equal width, all the even keys will be
operated by said fold, and. the fabric be uniformily taken up. Thus the
distinctive feature of the improved take-up gear consists in its being
set in operation by the fabric itself according to the width of the
weaving.
The improved take-up gear of this Invention is illustrated in the
accompanying Drawings, Figure 1 of which shows a cross sectional
elevation of same on line 1, 2, Figure 3. Figure 2 shows in cnd view
the mode of transmitting motion to the various parts. Figure 3 is a
front view, and Figure 4 a plan of the apparatus. The left-hand side
of Figure 3 shows the apparatus complete, while on the other side the
balance weights of the keys are removed. On the left-hand side of
Figure 4 both series of keys are shown in the raised position, while on
the right I have removed the roller serving to lower the odd keys in
order to show the two series, the even keys being drawn back. Figure 5
shows a separate view of the relative position of the keys, one being
lowered and the other raised for producing the take-up motion desired.
Figure 6 shows the keys in the position they occupy after drawing out
the fold. Figures 7 and 8 show the fabric and the ends of the keys on

page_text: a larger scale. Figure 9 shows a separate view of the eccentric or cam
cylinder for producing the rise and fall of the two series of keys. In
this Figure the keys are shown in section on line 7, 8, Figure 5, the
odd keys being lowered and the even keys raised. Figure 10 shows.
a transverse section of the cam cylinder on line 3, 4, Figure 9; and
Figure 11 a similar section on line 5, 6, Figure 9. Figure 12 shows a
portion of the cam roller used for bringing the even keys to their normal
position after the fabric has been taken up. Figure 13 is a transverse
section of the same on line 9, 10, Figure 12.
the mode of weaving a gusset. The same reference letters and figures
apply to the same parts in the several Figures.
Lastly, Figure 14 shows
A, odd keys; B, even keys, each made of plates of wood, iron, copper,
or other suitable material fitted to oscillate on a fixed axis C supported
in bearings or cheek plates D forming the end frames of the "take up
apparatus, which plates are fixed in any suitable position at the front E
of the loom. The keys A, B, are each provided with a projecting end
or nose a, b, at the end of which are placed the pins or points for
penetrating the fabric from underneath close up to the reed; d, elongated
eye made in each of the keys B for mounting the same on fixed shaft C;
e, f, g, h, rectangular opening made in keys A, B, in which is placed
the cam shaft F, Figures 9, 10, and 11, turning in frames D. This
shaft F is made of the same diameter as the depth e, f, of the orifice
in the keys, and is provided with two series of circular projections or
cam surfaces i, j, serving to raise and lower the keys. These cam
surfaces are each made to occupy a little less than half the circumference
of the cylinder and are connected by two parts 5, 6; Figures 10 and 11.
These cams form relief surfaces on cylinder F, which are arranged in
such manner that the one series may be on one side of the cylinder
and the other series on the opposite side. By this means it will be readily
understood that during half a revolution of cylinder F the' cams i will
raise the keys corresponding therewith, while the intermediate keys
resting in the spaces between will remain in position: When -the
plane 5, 6, is presented the whole of the keys' will be raised; as seen in
Figure 1, and penetrate the fabric,, while during the remaining half'
revolution of the cylinder the keys' previously raised will fall into the
spaces and those' before lowered will be raised by the cam surfaces j.
By combining the parts and movements in this manner it' will be seen
that the fabric is never released, one series of keys entering alternately
with the other, while during the time they rest on the parts 5, 6, they
22

page_text: both enter the fabric at the same time. Each key B is provided at its
rear end with a hook k, to which is attached the end of a cord passing
round a pulley m. n, counterbalance weight fixed at the lower end of
each of the cords i for producing the sliding motion of the keys B on
their fixed axis; G, shaft, mounted at the rear end of the keys and
provided with cams o, corresponding in number to the keys B, and
pressing against them when taking up the fabric; P, projection formed
on the rear end of each key B, bearing against cams o. From the
foregoing it will be seen that the keys A have oscillating motion imparted
to them from cylinder F, while keys B besides their rotary motion are
capable of sliding on their fixed shaft. All the keys are in contact
one with the other, the one series B being lowered by the balance
weights n and the other series A by means of a reed H pivotted to
framing D, the teeth of which reed are equal in number to the keys A,
it being caused to oscillate at the desired time in order to bear
simultaneously on each of the keys.
It should be understood that the mode of transmitting motion from
the batten to the parts F, G, H, may be varied, one arrangement being
shown in the Drawing, which I will now describe :-I, lever provided
with a pawl J gearing with a ratchet wheel M. This lever receives
motion from a rod L connected to the arm of the batten. M, toothed
wheel fixed to ratchet K and transmitting rotary motion to a toothed
wheel N keyed on the end of cylinder F by the aid of pinion O; P,
toothed wheel keyed on the end of cylinder G and receiving motion
from wheel M by the aid of pinion Q; R, finger fixed on the boss of
wheel P, which at each revolution of the latter raises a lever S keyed on
the end of reed H for lowering the keys A. When the four motions of
the keys have been completed, as seen in Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, and four
throws of the weft have taken place, the batten T which has a uniform
motion produces a fold in the fabric. At this moment the keys B are
in the raised position, and A. in the lowered position, the reed pressing
the fabric against the keys. In this manner the equilibrium of the
balance weights of the bobbin frame and of weights n of the even keys
is overcome, the latter in acting causing the eyes d to slide on the
shaft while the projections p of the keys enter the recesses in
cams o and draw out the fold, as seen in Figures 6 and 8. The cams o
then act on the keys B, while the odd keys again penetrate the fabric
close up to the reed and so on.
It should be understood that I reserve the right of producing the

page_text: take-up motion with folds formed of three, four, five, or a greater
number of weft threads. The Invention thus consists in the improved
combined temple and take-up gear herein described and represented,
more especially applicable to looms for weaving stay fabrics, gaiters,
and other similar articles of irregular form, although it may be used
in other kinds of weaving. The apparatus consists of movable keys
acting independently of the jacquard and operated direct by the formation
of the weft and entering the fabric from below.
I also reserve the right of varying the form and dimensions of the
keys and of communicating motion thereto in any suitable manner.
Thus instead of lowering the odd keys by means of the reed H, I
may use a cam cylinder similar to F, whereby both series of keys are
lowered alternately at the desired time. The counterbalances n may
in this case be greatly reduced in weight, as they would merely
serve to produce the sliding motion of the even keys in taking up
the fabric. As it may happen that the equilibrium will not be over-
come by the motion of the batten, in which case the fabric would
not be taken up in a regular manner, I obviate this by the addition of
a lever to each weight n of the take-up keys B for the purpose of
raising said weight out of action when the take-up is not required to act,
and releasing the same when the contrary is the case. This arrange-
ment is shown in Figures 23 and 24 of the Drawings. By placing a
lever 1, 2, oscillating at 3 on the cord of weight n of the key B, I
may by bearing at point 2, Figure 23, on said lever raise the weight n
and so throw the key B out of action when required. As each of the
keys B is similarly provided with a weight n, if each weight be connected
with two hooks of the jacquard mechanisin the desired result is attained,
namely, the weight is thrown in or out of action as desired. A cord 4
is attached to the lever at point 2, passing over a drum 5 and upwards
to the hook of the jacquard. By pulling on the lever at 2 the jacquid
brings it down to the position seen in Figure 24, so as to raise the
weight n in order that the latter may cease to act on the key. The lever
is held in this position by means of a hook 6 formed of two arms, one of
which forms a catch, the other being weighted so as to give it a constant
tendency to fall forwards. To this hook is attached another cord j
passing under a roller 8 and upwards to a hook of the jacquard. By
pulling this cord the catch 6 is caused to oscillate in a backward

page_text: direction so as to liberate the lever 1, 2, which is again raised by
weight n for the purpose of acting on the key, as before explained.
I have before mentioned that the take-up gear is unconnected with the
jacquard, by which it is understood that it is not operated thereby, it
being on the contrary the fabric itself according as it is woven which
operates the take-up mechanism herein-before fully described. The above
arrangement illustrated in Figures 23 and 24 thus merely serves to
ensure the action of the "take-up" by means of the keys so as to throw
those out of gear which are not required to act when the weaving is to
be omitted at any point.
Self-winding Shuttle.-The Invention relates, secondly, to an
improved arrangement of shuttle for winding the thread.
It will be understood from the foregoing description that in order to
weave a gusset either at the right or left of the warp, the shuttle, always
having the same extent of to-and-fro motion across the warp, unwinds
more thread than is required to form the weft of the said gusset. By an
improvement in the shuttle of this Invention I make it wind the
superfluous thread, so as to keep it constantly in tension whether
weaving the whole breadth of the warp or to the right or left only.
This improvement is also illustrated in the Drawings, Figure 15 showing
a plan of the improved shuttle; Figure 10, a longitudinal section on
line 9, 10, Figure 15; Figure 17 a side view, and Figure 18 a transverse
section of same on line 11, 12, Figure 16. The same letters of reference
apply to these four Figures.
a¹ body of the shuttle, which may be of any suitable form and arrange-
ment; b, spool carrying the weft thread, shown in red lines; c', c', friction
rollers running in the shuttle race. The shuttle is further driven in
any suitable manner.
The improvement consists in disposing, above one of the friction
rollers cand in contact therewith another roller & made of some
heavy matter, such as lead, iron, or otherwise, so as to receive rotary
motion by its frictional contact on the roller c¹ turning. Roller d¹ is
provided with a groove e³, and a lateral circular recess f¹ communicating
with said groove by means of a channel g', Figures 15 and 18. The
thread from the spool 6' passes round a hook h' and through an
eye in the shuttle, again entering the same at an eye ¹ in a line
with the axis of the winding roller & through the circular recess f¹,

page_text: channel g', out at another eye k¹, and thence to the warp, as seen in
Figure 15. Supposing the shuttle to move in the direction of the
arrow 1, Figure 15, the. friction rollers c¹, c¹, turn in the direction of
the arrows 2, 2, Figure 16, the winding reel rotating, as indicated by
the arrow 3, so as to coil on its periphery the quantity of thread 4, K',
unwound from the shuttle in excess, until by the motion of the shuttle
the thread is secured at 4 in the warp. At this moment the thread
being retained at point 4 will unwind from groove e¹ by rotating the
reel in the reverse direction to the arrow 3, and if the shuttle has
to travel a greater distance to reach the end of its course than the
quantity of thread unwound from the groove it will be drawn direct
from the spool in the direction before mentioned and completely
arresting the motion of reel d. When the shuttle returns in the
reverse direction the same effect is produced, the rollers c¹, c¹, and
turning the reverse way to that indicated by the arrows 2 and 3. is
a plate or cover to prevent roller d' escaping from the space m³ made in
the shuttle while the latter is in motion. I reserve the right of applying
this system of self-winding shuttle in looms for weaving all kinds of
fabrics, including corsets and other articles, as above described, the shuttle
having in all cases an extent of motion exceeding the width of
the warps.
Warp Bobbins.-Under the name of bobbin frame is generally.
designated the bobbins or beams placed at the back of a loom carry.
each series of warp threads. These threads are all conducted to the front
of the loom, passing uniformly through the reed to form the warp
foundation. In this manner each series is rendered independent of the
other, the employment of such thread carriers being indispensable when
using the take-up gear of this Invention.
The improvements in the thread carrier consist in a mode of keeping
the warps always at a uniform tension, whether the carrier be of larger
or smaller diameter consequent on the unwinding of the thread. This
part of the Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawings,
Figure 19 showing a front view of the thread carrier and parts; Figure 20
a side view of same; Figure 21 shows a side view of the bobbin properly
so called; and Figure 22 a side view of a portion of same.
The same
letters apply to these four Figures.
n', bobbin or thread carrier, the warp being shown in red lines. This
bobbin is formed of two cheeks, one of which is provided with a number

page_text: of projecting teeth o'. p', axis of bobbin n'; q', Figure 22, part formed
of two flat plates placed at a suitable distance apart to permit of teeth o'
entering between them; r, small pulley mounted at the upper part
between the plates q'; 8', tie; t, balance weight suspended at the lower
part q'. The thread from bobbin 2 passes over a roller or rod u,
and then descends in order to enter the groove of pulley s¹ so as to keep
part q' suspended; it then again rises and passes over a pulley or rod v
to the reed in the direction of the arrow 5, the whole being arranged as
described supposing the weight and part q' to be equal to seven and a
half pounds and the pins to rest on one of the teeth o'. The thread
being drawn in the direction of the arrow 5 the bobbin is prevented from
turning, and the thread is released from tension in consequence of the
obstacle presented by part s²; the thread will thus raise the part q' until
tooth is disengaged from pin s', at which moment the weight & acts,
bringing down part q' and drawing on the thread from the bobbin, which
is thus caused to turn until the next tooth o' abuts against the pin 8².
Thus the tension exerted on the thread in the direction of the arrow 5
is always equal to seven and a half pounds, it being simply necessary
to raise part q', which alone serves for drawing off the thread from the
bobbin. As before mentioned with reference to the take-up gear, when
the equilibrium of balance weights with those of the odd and even
keys is overcome by the action of the reed producing a fold in the fabric,
said weights n cause the keys to slide in order to draw out this fold
together with the fabric. This system of thread tension regulator is
applicable to all kinds of looms.
Having described the nature of this Invention and the manner of
performing the same, I declare that what I claim as the Invention to
be protected by the hercin-before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First. The keys A, B, having pins or points for entering the fabric
from below as near the reed as desired and serving to "take-up" the
fabric at that part only where the weft has passed, such "take-up" gear
being operated by means of the fabric instead of by the jacquard, as
usual, the whole arranged and operating substantially in the manner
shown and described.
Secondly. I claim the winder d, Figures 15, 16, 17, and 18, disposed
in a shuttle in the manner shown for the purpose of taking up any excess
of thread unwound from the shuttle.

page_text: Thirdly. I claim the improved warp bobbins or carriers described
consisting of a bobbin n¹ having teeth o' in combination, rods or
rollers u', v¹, weighted plates q', and pulley r¹, the whole arranged and
applied for keeping the warp threads at a constantly uniform tension
substantially in the manner shown and described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Eighth day of January,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
nine.
Witness,
JAMES DAISH,
53, Chancery Lane,
London.
A. M. CLARK. (L.S.)