IMPROVE- MENTS IN LOOMS
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Engineer and Patent Agent, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN LOOMS."-A communication from abroad by Mr. Benoit Barlet,
of 29, Boulevart St. Martin, Paris, Manufacturer.
Sealed the 30th April 1861, and dated the 13th November 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clark at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, ou the 13th
November 1860.
I, WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer and Patent Ageut, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS," to be as follows:-
Various methods have been adopted for reducing the labour in weaving
fabrics, more especially in the ribbon manufacture. This result has been
sought by multiplying the number of pieces to be woven at one time; but for
this purpose it was necessary to have the batten of great length, as each piece
of ribbon is separated from the others by blanks and cramps of at least equal
width as the shuttle is long, which is itself always of a length equal to or
greater than the width of the piece of ribbon to be made. However, notwith-
standing the care taken in the construction of the batten and the increased
dimensions of the parts of which it is composed,battens of this length possess
great elasticity and vibrate more or less at each throw, producing irregularities
in the fabric. It has further been attempted to remedy this defect by doubling
the number of parts carried by the batten, and by placing two rows one above
the other, so as to have battens of but one-half the length of the battens of
ordinary looms. The spaces between the parts being the same as usual.
[Price 8d.1

page_text: Notwithstanding these apparent advantages, this kind of loom has been
abandoned from the impossibility of overlooking the weaving of a second row
of parts, also of repairing the accidents which may occur during the operation
of weaving. The two rows are separated by a sufficient space, and the second
row being further from the centre of oscillation of the batten receives a lesser
amount of force in driving up the weft than the other row. It has been further
tried to arrange two rows of parts in such manner that the upper row shall
be above the cramps of the lower row, and the cramps of the second row
between the upper.
But as otherwise than this new arrangement no other
modification has been made in the action of the parts composing an ordinary
loom, and as there should always be a considerable distance between tworows
of parts, their still remains the inconvenience arising from the difference of
distance from the axis of the batten. The distance between the rows cannot
be diminished as the shed is produced in the ordinary way, that is to say, pro-
gressively and slowly, commencing at the moment when the shuttle itself
commences, and finishes before the shuttle has completely escaped. There is
further,in ordinary looms,a friction between the warp threads and the shuttle,
which frequently produce breakages of the thread when there is insufficient
space for the action of the parts. Hence the extent of opening of the shed
regulates the minimum distance between the two rows of parts.
This Invention of improvements in the various parts of looms relates to the
construction of a loom obviating the herein-before enumerated disadvantages,
having two rows of parts for manufacturing wide ribbons in as great perfection
as is obtained by the best looms with single rows of parts.
The following is a description of the arrangements for simplifying the parts
necessary for producing the motions required:-
Fig. 1, Sheet 1 of the Drawings annexed, represents a front view, the
breast beam being removed; Fig. 2, plan of the shuttle; Fig. 3, edge view
of the shuttle; Fig. 4, front view of the shuttle; Fig. 5, transverse section of
the same.
Fig. 1, Sheet 2, shows a view behind the rack frame, the glass rods being
removed.
Fig. 1, Sheet 3 is a transverse section of a loom. The same letters denote
the same parts where they recur in the several Figures of the Drawings.
A, A, framing of the loom of cast-iron or other material; B, B, C, C, battens
similar to those of ordinary looms, formed first of two vertical arms B, C, B, C,
having at their upper ends suspending sockets a, a, on which the frame
oscillates. These sockets are carried by two rods b, b, engaging in pieces c, c,

page_text: fixed to the arm C. These rods have screw threads, which permit, by means
of nuts, of raising and lowering the sockets to a certain extent, & thus
to regulate the exact vertical position of the batten. The pins d of the
socket slide for a similar purpose grooves in e made in the frame. They are
held at any suitable part by means of nuts and screws. This arrangement
permits of the advance or withdrawal of the batten; 2ndly, of two cross
bars B, B, D, D, strengthened, if necessary, by steel rods to render them more
rigid. On these cross bars are arranged, 1st, the combs or reeds f fixed by
means of two bolts, the nuts of which face the operator; Endly, of cramps g for
guiding the shuttles h; 3rdly, the mechanism for actuating the shuttles. This
consists of a rack of leather running the whole length of the cross bar B, B,
which receives an alternating progressive motion from a toothed wheel j, to be
herein-after described. This wheel transmits motion to a series of small
wheels adjusted on vertical axes behind eacheramp. These axes also carry
two other small wheels l, m, situated at the centre of the cramp groove, and
which gear with racks n, o, on each shuttle h, as will be herein-after explained
when describing a new arrangement of shuttle.
It should be here remarked, that contrary to the practice in ordinary looms
where the cramps are always wider than the intervals which separate them in
these improved looms, the cramps are but half the ordinary width, with the
exception of the end ones of each row of parts, which should always be of the
same length as the shuttle. The arrangement allows of the batten being con-
siderably shorter than in ordinary looms, and has produced excellent results on
trial. The rack i, as above stated, is carried on a vertical axis in bearings 2,
which also has a small drum q, round which is wound a catgut r a sufficient
number of times to prevent it from slipping off; thence its extremities pass
round grooves of two small pullies s, the ends being connected to the lower
extremities E, G, of two parts E, F, G, H. In this improved loom the
marionettes or shuttle drivers E, F, G, H, are placed, as seen, inside the
batten next the operator, so that he can by a single glance overlook the opera-
tion, and correct irregularities that may occur. They do not otherwise differ
from the shuttle drivers of ordinary looms. Their up-and-down motion is
effected by means of rods I, J, attached at the point I to a crank I, K, turning
on a shaft K of a fly wheel or driving pullies. The curvilinear movement at
point I is transformed at point J into a rectilinear up-and-down movement by
means of a guide L, M, sliding in guides N, N. To this guide is fixed an iron
rod O, P, which partakes of the same movements; the extremity P of which
works the shuttle drivers. The Drawing represents the part P at the moment
of its descent, which in continuing its motion presses against the tongue t and

page_text: forces it to enter the shuttle drivers, thence it passes under said tongue t, rises
& draws the shuttle drivers with it in its ascent, which by means of cord r acts
on arm q, toothed wheel j, rack i, and so on wheels 7 & m, & shuttles h, which
move in the same direction as rack i. At the same time that one end of the
cord turns the drum y in the direction, the other end of said cord produces
the descent of the second shuttle driver, which is connected to the other by a
strap passing over pulley Q. In this first movement of the shuttle drivers all
the shuttles perform a rapid traverse movement in their respective spaces, and
lodge in the cramps to the right of those they previously occupied, & the
part P having arrived at the top of its course descends without further action
of the mechanism or shuttles. It now lodges, as before, under the tongue of
the second shuttle driver, which now occupies the same position formerly held
by tongue t. During this interval of time the second traverse movement is
performed in an opposite direction to the preceding, and a similar movement
of the part P being again effected, it will be understood that all the parts of
the mechanism will move in a reverse direction, and the shuttles will again
traverse the fabric. The first movement of the shuttles is represented in the
Drawing as being just effected, when the driving shaft K will be in the posi-
tion shown, & the eccentric R thereon in a vertical position, thereby raising
the rod S, T, for working the jacquard apparatus I with two levers U, V, X, Y,
in a horizontal position, and stopping the traverse of the shuttles. The rotating
motion of the shaft K now carries the eccentric round with it, and the two
levers U, V, X, Y, having a tendency to open allows of the traverse of the
shuttles to be again effected from the point of the eccentric, which is the
farthest from the centre of rotation to the point x, that is to say, during about
one-fourth of a revolution of the shaft. The motion is effected with greater
rapidity from point a to point z. The rollers carried by the rod S, T, perform
an are of a circle x, y, z, rather larger than a semi-circumference from the
same centre. The jacquard apparatus represented in the Drawing is termed a
"roquette," usually employed in looms for weaving plain taffetas. The shaft K
acts on the levers, causes them to occupy the positions U, Z, Y, A. The
"sheds" remain completely open during the interval occupied
of position, at which moment the shuttles perform their traverse, which is
thereby rendered comparatively easy. It has been before stated, that this is
not obtained in ordinary looms, where the shuttle commences its traverse
when the motion is as yet slow, and terminates at the moment when the shed
closes. Hence there results a friction between the threads of silk and the
shuttle, which frays, weakens, and sometimes breaks them.
this change
In this improved loom, it is only when the shuttle has performed its traverse,

page_text: and the eccentric having passed the angle comprised between the points,,y,,
continues its rotating motion, that the rollers perform the arcz,v,being the same
as arc v, z, a little less than one-fourth of a circle, the rod S, T, is lowered,and the
levers U,V,X,Y,return to their horizontal position, and the sheds are closed,
to be again opened after having received a weft thread. Thus, by fixing an
eccentric or cam R, on the driving shaft of a suitable form, various move-
ments may be imparted to the jacquard apparatus or "roquettes," increasing
and diminishing the time required for performing the various movements so
that the shuttles may pass as freely as possible through the sheds, although
the threads should not be exactly in the same plane. By this arrangement
theshed remains open during the necessary time for the passage of the shuttle,
so that the opening of the shed may be considerably reduced by making it only
slightly deeper than the depth of the shuttle, which will allow of its moving
regularly without catching, which arrangement also permits of reducing the
be
cramps. By reducing the height of the shed, the two rows of pieces may
brought near to each other, and so as to separate them only by about an inch,
and so dispose the silk on the glass bars T¹ and large combs U¹, the same as
in ordinary looms,with one row of parts. It will be seen by the Drawing that
the shed is effected one half by the rising motion, and the other half by the
descending motion, that is to say, nearly half the warp threads are raised a
distance equal to one half the extent of traverse, and the other half of the silk
threads lowered a similar distance. The motion of the heddles is effected by
the following mechanism :-The rod S, T, raises or lowers the lever U,V; at
one part of this lever is fixed a joint a', to which the lower end of a rod a'.bi
is attached jointed atb to plate B', which oscillates on a centre at c',opposite
point ; and at an equal distance from e' is jointed at d' a second rod ', e¹,
connected by part e¹ with the lever X,Y,motion being imparted to it from
lever U,V. The plate B' also actuates a third lever f', g' connected at f¹ to
the end of a rod f',',solidly fixed to the plate.and jointed at g' to the centre
of the cylinder C of the jacquard apparatus. By the motion of lever/", g'
the barrel c¹ is separated from or brought nearer to the hook of the jacquard
apparatus,and by means of the cords which it carries, produces the movement
of one or other of the warp threads. The jacquard mechanism being well
known in the manufacture of fabrics,it will be unnecessary here to give further
description other than explaining the combined movement of the two
levers U, V, & X, Y. The method of raising the "roquette" shown in the
Drawing should always be employed where there are a small number of
heddles, if there are a large number, other jacquard mechanism must be
employed. This movement may however be effected by means of the eccen-

page_text: be
trics as herein-before described as a substitute for the "roquette;" to produce
the desired effect, cords i, j, are suspended from the jacquard hooks for
supporting the heddles D', D', E', E', weighted at F, and to which are
attached a series of cords G', having eyes in which the warp threads pass.
The two extreme rows of cords i¹, k¹, pass over pullies m', m³, while the
threads fall vertically from the jacquard. After each throw of the batter,
cach strip of ribbon His wound on a roller l'; and in order to obtain a
regularly woven material, notwithstanding irregularities of the weft, the
roller I', which is being continually enlarged by the ribbon in progress of
manufacture, has a regular speed imparted to it; this motion may be readily
obtained by means of mechanism; it, however, produces the worst results on
the fabric if the speed is not sufficiently quick, as at first it would make the
fabric too tight, and the winding being continued on a continually increasing
circumference, the fabric would become more & more loose. This may
prevented by the employment of compensators, various arrangements of which
are in use in the manufacture of woven fabrics. The following is a substitute
for the ordinary regulators, for this purpose on a fixed axis J' running the
whole length of the loom are placed rollers 1', on each of which is wound
a piece of ribbon ; at one end of each of these rollers is placed a disc Kof
wood, furnished on the outside with an iron ring turned concentrically to the
rollers which are fixed to the shaft, they may be supported in position to resist
the tension of the fabric in various ways. Supposing a ring n' mounted on
shaft J', and retained in position by means of a binding screw o¹, this ring
carries an arm n¹,p',at the extremity of which a lever p¹,q, oscillates, having
a weight r,the position of which may be varied at will,and fixed by means of
a binding screws; on the other hand, the arm p' is extended at e',the weight
thereby exercising pressure on the exterior circumference of the disc, whence
it results that a friction is established which equalizes the tension exerted by
the ribbon on the circumference of the roller. The centre of oscillation p¹ of
lever gp,,may be independent of shaft J'and may be carried by a small
bearing carried by a cross bar connected to both sides of the loom, or it may
rest on the ground if the disc be to large for placing it otherwise; this
lever ',, is for the simple purpose of keeping the roller in one position,
provided a greater force does not oblige it to move one way or the other. The
winding is effected in a similar manner; thus, the iron ring of disc K¹ is
enlarged on the exterior,and provided with ratchet teeth as represented in the
Drawing; a socket w' loose on J'carries an arm 1,1,furnished with a balance
weight a', which slides on it, and is fixed by binding screw at a greater or
less distance from the centre of oscillation according to the diameter of the

page_text: roller, which is more or less augmented by the winding process. The arm of
lever v', vl, has an opening in which a pulley z' oscillates on a vertical axis a";
a spring continually forces this pall into gear with the teeth of the ring;
lastly, a stop c² turning on a horizontal axis is interposed between lever u', v',
and palls', to prevent it from gearing with the ratchet teeth, so as to free the
roller when the attendant wishes to unwind the ribbon; the lever u', u', is
worked by the batten by means of a cord d², e, f, which is attached to the
lever at d, and passing at e' over a sinall pulley, is connected to the batten
at f. The action of this mechanism will be readily understood, the disc being
retained by the projection e' of lever q', p', t'; and the pall s being in gear
with a tooth of the ratchet, the cord d, e, f, is drawn to the full extent
when the batter has reached its extreme retrograde position for a certain
number of throws of the batten; after this the lever will be raised, and again.
fall into gear with the same tooth before mentioned, when for each throw of
the batten it will fall to a corresponding extent according to the length of the
fabric woven. The operation being repeated, it gradually falls the extent of a
tooth until another throw of the batten raises it sufficiently to allow of the
pall, which is acted on by spring b, to engage in the next tooth of the
ratchet, the same action being repeated for every succeeding tooth..
The ratchet teeth need not be regularly spaced for the purpose of obtaining
the above result, so long as they are not too far apart on the circumference of
the disc, when, if the weight a' be lowered too considerably the momentum
would be changed, and thus sensibly alter the tension of the ribbon; on the
other hand it will be understood that the weighted lever being raised by each
throw of the batten it would fall each time on the tooth, and produce a shock
which would be so much the greater according to its height. For this purpose
it is suitable to have as great a number of teeth as possible, about one-tenth of
an inch apart will answer all purposes. The silk threads before passing to
the eyes of the heddles are wound on reels L' fixed to a rack M', and thence
pass over pullies N¹, O¹, of the part P¹, & round the pullies Q', which are
furnished with teeth, and to which are suspended weights R', of a size propor-
tionate to the tension required for the threads, these latter then pass over
pullies O, S, to again descend and pass under glass rods T¹, where they
are separated irregularly; they then pass through the large reeds U¹, as in
ordinary looms and traverse successively the eyes of the heddles and reeds or
combs of the batten from which point the weaving operation commencos.
The fabrics H pass over the glass rods V¹ on the frame, and then descend to
be wound on rollers I above described. In ordinary looms the reels L' are
fixed so as to prevent their turning under the action of weight R', when the silk

page_text: which is unwound by pullies Q' advances towards the batten, at the point
where they approach the crown P¹ the attendant stops the loom for the
purpose of unwinding the silk carried by the reels. For this purpose he
removes separately each reel from its axis, and unwinds a sufficient quantity of
silk to allow of the weight R' almost reaching the ground, the weaving
operation recommencing when all the reels have been so treated. It will be
understood that the action of weights R' on the two parallel ends of the silk
perfectlyregulates the tension of the threads. But the operation of unwinding
the silk from the reels absorbs much time as also the elevation of weight R¹
from near the ground to the crown, and also requires a considerable expen-
diture of force in lowering a number of them by hand. These disadvantages
may be avoided by making the ree!s to turn on axes, regulating their motion
by means of an escapement similar to those used in clocks. The reels are
themselves fixed on their axes, but these turn in the rack or frame,and for the
purpose of equalizing their bearing they are lengthened at both ends & carry
a reel on each side; on each axes is fitted a toothed wheel X', & the wheel of
one reel gears with that of the next, thus they are so arranged that movement
communicated to one wheel will be communicated to all the wheels in
succession. The diameters of the wheels should be in proportion to the speed
required to be given to one reel in relation to the other, and if there is too
much space between the wheels they should be connected by an intermediate
stud pinion. On either of the axes of the reels is mounted a second toothed
wheel g, receiving its motion from a pinion ² mounted on the axis of aratchet
wheel Y¹, the movement of which is regulated by a kind of pendulum Z,
oscillating at point. This pendulum has two projections or pallets &k, which,
by their oscillating movement, produced by means of lever i²,m², alternately
tak einto the teeth of the ratchet wheel. At the extremity m² of the pendulum
a cord is attached, which passes over a pulley placed on a suitable part of the
batten for giving the necessary motion to the pendulum. By regulating the
diameters of the gearing and pinion h2, it will be understood that any
required speed may be given to the reels, and the unwinding of the silk so
arranged that the movement of the weights K' to the upper part of the loom
shall be as slow as possible or entirely done away with, so that they would
simply serve for regulating the tension of the silk. As the rollers unwind
more silk than is taken up by the weaving, the weights being near the ground
have a tendency to rise toward the crown with so much the more speed as the
escapement furnishes less silk, and vice versa; if the unwinding is effected too
quickly less silk will be used in the weaving operation and the weights will be
lowered. In either case it will be necessary to raise and lower them by

page_text: operating as if there were no escapement, but this will not be required to be
done nearly so often as in the ordinary practice without escapements. The
unwinding of the silk from the reels as above described may also be effected
by mechanism similar to the regulators now in use for winding on fabrics that
have been woven. But as an inverse motion is required for this purpose, and
as the weights R' attached to the warp of the fabric would unwind the silk
too rapidly, the following arrangement will answer the purpose:-For this
purpose a toothed wheel g¹ is placed on one of the axes of the reels, or a disc
may be placed on its circumference, on which a pressure is exerted sufficient to
equalize the tension of the whole of the warp threads produced by means of a
weighted lever as before described with reference to the compensing regulator.
This improved loom may be driven by hand or otherwise. The motion when
worked by hand is given by the weaver by means of a bar as understood. The
Drawing represents the loom as provided with two pullies, the oue A² being
loose on the driving shaft K, the other B2 being fixed, a strap passing over one
or other of these pullies when it is wished either to drive or stop the machine.
One arm of the fixed pulley works a crank, to which is attached a rod C², D²,
one end of which is bent to allow of the traverse of the batten; at the other end
of shaft K is a crauk E2, F2, jointed to the extremity of a rod F, G², similar
to the preceding, and performing the same functions at the other end of the
batten. The rod S, T, which gives motion to the jacquard apparatus bears on
the eccentric R by means of two small rollers; it is held in a nearly vertical
position by means of a rod m², o³, jointed at both ends to a fixed part of the
frame, or it may be fitted in a socket.
In weaving fabrics, especially ribbons, there is great loss of time occupied
by the numerous stoppages for changing the spools which carry the weft.
This may be in a great part avoided by substituting a reel H² for the ordinary
spools, which will hold much more silk and also permit of the weft threads
always entering the eye of the shuttle in the same direction, thereby preventing
breakage. The ordinary shuttle is replaced by a shuttle composed of two
parts.the one is fixed and has rack teeth p2, the other J2 forming the front,
is movable and contains the reel H2 on a vertical axis carried by metal cross.
pieces 2. The front J2 hooks on to the fixed part 12 by means of two kuobs
running in grooves. The employment of the shuttle with a single reel does
not, however, allow of the spools being dispensed with when employing weft
threads of several sizes; for this purpose two, three, or more small reels K²
are placed on the shuttles each carrying one of the threads forming the weft;
the silk may be wound directly on these reels. All the reels comprised in one
shuttle carry the same length of thread, and all the threads are united

page_text: in eyes to form a weft thread of suitable size. The axis of each reel is divided
so as to form two arms, the friction of which against the eye of the reel will
regulate the tension of the weft. The weaver may have several of these
movable parts of the shuttles furnished with reels at his disposal, so that a
weak weft thread may be speedily removed and replaced without loss of time.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 13th
May 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer &
Patent Agent, send greeting.
.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-fourth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me
the said William Clark, Her special licence that I, the said William Clark,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
William Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS,"
(a communication from abroad by Mr. Benôit Barlet, of 29, Boulevart
St. Martin, Paris, Mauufacturer,) upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said William Clark, my executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Clark, do hereby declare the
nature of this said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the two Sheets of Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
Various methods have been adopted for reducing the labour in weaving
abrics, more especially in the ribbon manufacture. This result has been

page_text: sought by multiplying the number of pieces to be woven at one time, but for
this purpose it was necessary to have the slay frame of great length, as each
piece of ribbon is separated from the others by blanks & cramps of at least
equal width as the shuttle is long, which is itself always of greater width
than the piece of ribbon to be made. However, notwithstanding the care
taken in the construction of the slay, and the increased dimensions of the
parts of which it is composed, battens of this length possess great elasticity,
and vibrate more or less at each throw, producing irregularities in the fabric.
It has further been attempted to remedy this defect by doubling the number
of parts carried by the batten by placing two rows, one above the other, so as
to have the slay one-half the length of the battens of ordinary looms The
spaces between the parts being the same as usual. Notwithstanding these
apparent advantages this kind of loom has been abandoned, from the impossi-
bility of overlooking the weaving of a second row of parts,and also of repair-
ing the accidents which may occur during the operation of weaving. The two
rows are separated by a sufficient space, and the second row being further from
the centre of oscillation of the stay receives a lesser amount of force in
driving up the weft than the other row. It has been further tried to arrange
to rows of parts in such manner that the upper row shall be above the
cramps of the lower row, and the cramps of the second row below the upper
row. But as otherwise than this new arrangement, no other modification has
been made in the action of the parts composing an ordinary loom & as there
should always be considerable distance between the two rows of parts, there
still remains the inconvenience arrising from the difference of distance from the
axis of the batten. The distance between the rows cannot be diminished as
the operation is effected in the ordinary way, that is to say, progressively &
slowly,commencing at the momentwhen the shuttle itselfcommences& finish-
ing before the shuttle has completelyescaped, there is further in ordinarylooms
a friction between the warp threads and the shuttlewhich frequently produces
breakages of the threads when there is insufficient space for the action
of the parts. Hence the extent of this space regulates the minimum
distance between the two rows of parts. The following Invention of improve-
ments in the various parts of looms relates to the construction of a loom
obviating any of the hereinbefore enumerated disadvantages, having two rows
of parts for manufacturing most extensive ribbons in as great perfection as is
obtained by the best looms with single rows of parts. The following is a
description of the arrangements for simplifying the parts Lecessary for pro-
ducing the motions required. Fig. 1, Sheet 1 of the Drawings annexed,
represents on the left a'frout view of the loom, the breast beam or bench being

page_text: Fig. 2, plan of the
Fig. 3, front view of
removed, & on the right, a part in transverse section.
shuttle. Fig. 4 modified plan of part of the shuttle.
the shuttle. Fig. 5, transverse section of the same, while Fig. 6 represents a
lateral vertical section of the loom. A, A, framing of the loon of cast iron
or other material. B, B, C, C batten, similar to those of ordinary looms
formed first of two vertical arms B, C, B, C, having at their upper ends
suspending sockets a, a, on which the frame oscillates; these sockets are
carried by two rods b,b, engaging in pieces c,c,fixed to the arms C, these rods
have screw threads, which permit by means of nut screws raising & lower-
ing the sockets to a certain extent, and thus to regulate the exact vertical
position of the batten, the pins & of the sockets slide for a similar purpose in
grooves e, made in the frame. They are held at any suitable part, by means
of nut screws, this arrangement permits of the advance or withdrawal of the
batten. 2ndly, of two cross bars B, B, 1), D, strengthened, if necessary, by
steel rods to render them more rigid, on these cross bars are arranged, 1st, the
combs or reeds f, fixed by means of two bolts, the nuts of which face the
operator; 2ndly, of cramps g for guiding the shuttles h; 3rdly, the mechanism
for actuating the shuttles. This consists of a rack of leather i, running the
whole length of the cross bar B, B, which receives an alternating progres_
sive motion from a toothed wheel j, to be hereinafter described, this wheel
transmits motion to a series of small wheels k, adjusted on vertical axes
behind each cramp, these axes also carry two other small wheels l, m, situated
at the centre of the cramp grooves, and which gear with racks n, o, on each
shuttle h,aswill be hereinafter explained when describing a new arrangement
of shuttle. It should be here remarked, that contrary to the practice in ordinary
looms, where the cramps are always wider than the intervals which separate
them, in these improved battens, the cramps are but half the ordinary length
with the exception of the end ones of each row of parts, which should always
be of the same breadth as the length of the shuttle. This arrangement
allows of the batten being considerably shorter than in ordinary, and has
produced excellent results on trial. The rack i, as above stated, receives an
alternating movement from a toothed wheely, this wheel is carried ou a vertical
axis in bearings p, which also has a small drum q, round which is wound a
catgutr, asufficient number of times to prevent it from slipping off, thence its
extremities pass round the grooves of two small pullies s, the ends being con-
nected to the lower extremities E, G, of two parts, E, F, G, H. In this
improved loom the shuttle drivers E, E, G, H, are placed as seen inside the
batten next the operator, so that he can by a simple glance overlook the
operation, & correct any irregularities that may occur. They do not other-

page_text: 9
wise differ from the shuttle drivers E, F, G, H, of ordinary looms, their up
and down motion is effected by means of rods I, J, attached to the point I
to a crank I, K, turning on the shaft K of a fly wheel or driving pullies, the
curvilinear movement at point I is transformed at point J, into a rectilinear up
& down movement by means of a guide L, M, sliding in guides N, N; to this
guide is fixed an iron rod O, P, which partakes of the same movements; the
extremity P, of which works the shuttle drives, termed a sabre. The Drawing
represents the part P, at the moment of its descent, which in continuing its
motion presses against the tongue t, and forces it to enter the shuttle driver,
thence it passes under said tonguet,rises and draws the shuttle driver with itin
its ascent, which by means of cord r acts on drum q,toothed wheelj, rack i, &
so on, wheels 7 &m, and shuttlesh, which move in the same direction as rack 2.
At the same time, that one end of the cord turns the drum q in one direction,
the other end of said cord produces the descent of the second shuttle
driver which is connected to the other by a strap passing over pulley Q.
In the first movement of the shuttle drivers, all the shuttles perform
a rapid traverse movement in their respective spaces, and lodge in the
cramps to the right of those they previously occupied, and the part P having
arrived at the top of its course, descends without further acting on the
mechanism or shuttles, it now lodges as before under the tongue u of the
second shuttle driver which now occupies the same position formerly
held by tongue t. During this interval of time a second traverse
movement is performed in an opposite direction to the preceding,and a similar
movement of the part P being again effected, it will be understood that all
the parts of the mechanism will move in a reverse direction, and the shuttles
will again traverse the fabric. The first movement of the shuttles is repre-
sented in the Drawing as being just effected when the driving shaft K will
be in the position shown, the excentric R on which shaft will be vertical
& up, thereby raising the rod S, T, for working the jacquard apparatus
(the jacquard apparatus represented in the Drawing is termed a "racket"
or "raquette" usually employed in looms for weaving plain taffetas) when
the two levers U, V, X, Y, will be in a horizontal position thereby stopping
the traverse of the shuttle. The rotary motion of the shaft K now carries
the eccentric round with it, and the two levers U, V, X, Y, having a tendency.
to open, allows of the traverse of the shuttles to be again effected from the
frout of the eccentric which is the furthest from the centre of rotation
to the point x, that is to say, during one-fourth of a revolution of the shaft
the motion is effected with greater rapidity, while from point to point z
the rollers carried by the rod S, T, traverse an arc of a circle x, y, z, rather

page_text: larger than a semi-circumference, from the same centre as the shaft K, so
that the levers occupying the positions U, Z, X, A', the sheds will remain
completely open during the interval occupied by this change of position, at
which moment the shuttles perform their traverse, which is thereby rendered
comparatively easy. It has been before stated that this is not obtained in
ordinary looms, where the shuttle commences its traverse, when the motion
is as yet slow and terminates at the moment when the shed has become closed.
Hence there results a friction between the threads of the silk, and the shuttle
which frays, weakens, and sometimes breaks them. In this improved loom
it is only when the shuttle has but just performed its traverse, and the
excentric having passed the angle comprised between the points v, x, y, z,
continues its rotary motion, that the rollers perform the arc 2, v, forming
the same as arc v, x, a little less than one-fourth of a circle, the rod S, T,
is lowered, and the levers U, V, X, Y, return to their horizontal position,
and the sheds are closed to be again opened after having received a weft
thread, thus by fixing an excentric R, on the driving shaft of a suitable
form, various movements may be imparted to the lacquard apparatus, for
increasing and diminishing the time required for performing the various
movements, so that the shuttles may pass as freely as possible through the
sheds assigned to them, although the threads should not be exactly in the
same plane. By this arrangement the shed remains open during the necessary
time, for the passage of the shuttle, so that this opening of the shed may
be considerably reduced, by making it only slightly deeper than the depth
of the shuttle, which will allow of its moving regularly without catching,
which arrangement alsó permits of reducing the length of the cramps. By
reducing the height of the shed, the two rows of parts may be brought
near to each other, & so as to separate them, only about one inch, and also
to dispose the silk on the glass rods T¹ & large combs U¹, the same as in
ordinary looms, with oue row of parts. It will be seen by the Drawings
that the shed is effected, one half by a rising motion, and the other half by
a descending movement, that is to say, nearly half of the warp threads are
raised a distance equal to one half the extent of traverse and the other
half of the silk threads lowered a similar distance. The motion of the
- heddles is effected by the following mechanism :-The rod S, T, raises or
lowers the lever U, V, at one part of this lever is fixed a point a¹, to which
the lower end of a rod a, b, is attached, jointed at 61 to plate B', which
oscillates on a centre at c', opposite point 6' and at an equal distance from c¹ is
jointed at a second rod d, e, connected by part e' with the lever X, Y,
motion being imparted to it from lever U, V, the plate B' also actuates a third

page_text: lever,g connected at fi to the end of a rod f, h¹, solidly fixed to the plate,
and jointed at g' to the centre of the cylinder C¹ of the jacquard apparatus.
By the motion of lever f', 91, the barrel c¹ is separated from or brought
nearer to the hook of the jacquard apparatus, & by means of the cards
which it carries, produces the movement of one or other of the warp threads.
The jacquard mechanism being well known in the manufacture of fabrics,
it will be unnecessary here to give a further description other than explaining
the combined movements of the two levers U, V, & X, Y.. The method of
raising the "racket" shown in the Drawing, should always be employed
where there are only a small number of heddles, if there are a large number
other jacquard mechanism should be employed which must be raised parallel..
This movement may however be effected by means of the eccentric herein-
before described, as also for the racket for producing the desired effect, cards
,,, are suspended from the jacquard hooks, for supporting the heddles
D', D', E', E', weighted at F' and to which are attached a series of cords
G¹ having eyes in which the warp threads pass. The two extreme rows
of cords, k', pass over pullies m³, m', while the threads j' fall vertically
from the jacquard. After each throw of the batten each strip of ribbon
H' is wound on a roller 1, and in order to obtain a regularly woven material,
notwithstanding irregularities of the weft, the roller I' which is being con
tinually eularged by the ribbon in progress of manufacture, has a regular
speed imparted to it, this motion may be readily obtained by means of
mechanism, it however produces the worst results on the fabric if the speed
is not sufficiently quick, as at first it would make the fabric too tight, and
the winding being continued on a continually increasing circumference, the
fabric would become more and more loose, this may be prevented by the
employment of compensators, various arrangements of which are in use iu
the manufacture of woven fabrics. The following is a substitute for the
ordinary regulators for this purpose. On a fixed axis J' running the whole
length of the loom are placed rollers l' on each of which is wound a piece
of ribbon, at each end of each of these rollers is placed a disc K' of wood
furnished on the outside with an iron ring turned concentrically to the
rollers which are fixed to the shaft, they may be supported in position to
resist the tension of the fabric in various ways. Supposing a ring mounted
on shaft J' and retained in position by means of a binding screw o, this ring
carries an arm n', p', at the extremity of which a lever p', p', oscillates, having
a weight the position of which may be varied at will and fixed by means
of a binding screws', on the other hand the arm p', is extended at ', the
weight thereby exercising pressure on the exterior circumference of the

page_text: disc, whence it results that a friction is established which equalizes the
tension exerted by the ribbon on the circumference of the roller. The
centre of oscillation of the lever q', p, t, may be independent of
shaft J, & may be carried by a small bearing from a cross bar connected
to both sides of the loom, or it may rest on the ground if the disc be
too large for placing it otherwise; this lever q, p¹, t', is for the simple
purpose of keeping the roller in one position, provided a greater force does
not oblige it to move one way or the other. The winding is effected in a
similar manner thus:-The iron ring of disc K' is enlarged at the exterior
and provided with ratchet teeth as represented in the Drawing a socket u³,
loose on shaft J¹, carries an arm v', ', furnished with a balance weighta¹,
which slides on it and fixed by binding screw y', at a greater or less distance
from the centre of oscillation according to the diameter of the roller which
is more or less augmented by the winding process. The arm of lever v', n', has
an opening in which a pawl z, oscillates on a vertical axis a", a spring
continually forces this pawl into gear with the teeth of the ring; lastly, a
stop", turning on a horizontal axis is interposed between lever u, v, & pawl
21, to prevent it from gearing with the ratchet teeth, so as to free the roller
when the attendant wishes to unwind the ribbon. The lever u', v', is worked
by the batten, by means of a cord d", e",", which is attached to the lever
at du, & passing at e¹¹ over a small pulley, is connected to the batten at f".
The action of this mechanism will be readily understood the disc being retained
by the projection e' of lever q', p', t, & the pawl z' being in gear with a tooth
of the ratchet, and the cord d", e", ", is drawn to the full extent, & when the
batten has reached the extremne retrogra de position, for a certain number
of throws of the batten; after this the lever will be raised & again fall into
gear with the same tooth before mentioned, when for each throw of the batten
it will fall to the corresponding extent according to the length of the fabric
woven. This operation being repeated it gradually falls the extent of a tooth
until another throw of the batten raises it sufficiently to allow of the pawl
¹, which is acted on by a spring b", to engage in the next tooth of the ratchet,
the same action being repeated for every succeeding tooth. The ratchet
teeth need not be regularly spaced for the purpose of obtaining the above
result so long as they are not too far apart on the circumference of the disc,
when if the weight a³ be lowered too considerably the momentum would be
changed and thus sensibly alter the tension on the ribbon. On the other hand
it will be understood that the weighted lever being raised by each throw of
the batten it would fall each time on the tooth & produce a shock which
would be so much the greater according to its height. For this purpose it is

page_text: suitable to have as great a number of teeth as possible, teeth about one-eighth
or one-tenth of an inch apart will answer all purposes. The silk threads before
passing to the eyes of the heddles are wound on reels L', fixed on a rack M',
and thence pass over pullies N¹, O¹, of the part P¹, and round the pullies Q¹,
which are furnished with teeth, and to which are suspended weights R' of a
size proportionate to the tension required for the threads. These latter
pass over pullies O¹, S¹, to again descend and pass under the glass rods,
T', where they are separated irregularly, they then pass through the large
reeds U¹,as in ordinary looms, & traverse successively the eyes of the heddles
& reeds and combs of the batten, from which point the weaving operation
commences. The fabrics H pass over the glass rods V₁ on the frame, and
then descend to be wound on rollers I above described. In ordinary looms
the reels L',are fixed so as to prevent their turning under the action of weight
R', when the silk which is unwound by pullies Q', advances towards the
batten, at the point where they approach the crown P' the attendantstops the
loom for the purpose of unwinding the silk carried by the reels. For this
purpose he removes separately each reel from its axis and unwinds a sufficient
quantity of silk to allow of the weight R¹, almost reaching the ground
the weaving operation recommencing, when all the reels have been so
treated. It will be understood that the action of weights R' on the two
parallel ends of the silk perfectly regulates the tension of the threads.
But the operation of unwinding the silk from the reels absorbs much time
as also the elevation of weight R', from the near ground to the crown
& also requires a considerable expenditure of force in lowering a number
of them by hand. These disadvantages may be avoided by making the reels to
turn on axes by means of an escapement regulating their motion similar to
those used in clocks. These reels are themselves fixed on their axes, which
latter turn in the sides of the rack, and for the purpose of equalizing their
bearing they are lengthened at both ends, and carry a reel on each side; on
each axis is fitted a toothed wheel X', and the wheel of one reel, with
gears
that of the next, thus they are so arranged that movement communicated to
one wheel will be communicated to all the reels in succession. The diameters
of the wheels should be in proportion to the speed required to be given to one
reel in relation to the others; & if there is much space between the wheels,
they should be connected by an intermediate stud pinion; on either of the
axes of the reels is mounted a second toothed wheel g", receiving its motion
from a pinion, nounted on the axis of a ratchet wheel y', the movement
of which is regulated by a kind of pendulum Z oscillating at point i; this
pendulum has two projections or pallets y" & ", which by their oscillating

page_text: movement produced by means of lever ", "alternately take into the teeth
of the ratchet wheel. At the extremity m" of the pendulum a cord is attached
which passes over a pulley placed on a suitable part of the batten for giving
the necessary motion to the pendulum. By regulating the diameters of the
gearing g" & pinion h", it will be understood that any required speed may be
given to the reels, and the unwinding of the silk so arranged that the move-
ment of the weights RI to the upper part of the loom shall be as slow as
possible or entirely done away with, and so that they would simply serve for
regulating the tension of the silk, as the rollers unwind more silk than is taken
up by the weaving, the weights being near the ground, have a tendency to rise
towards the crown with so much the more speed as the escapement furnishes
less silk, & vice versa; if the unwinding is effected too quickly, less silk will
be used in the weaving operation, and the weight will be lowered. In either
case it will be necessary to raise & lower them by operating as if there were
no escapement, but this will not be required to be done nearly so often as in
the ordinary practice without escapements.
disc
The unwinding of the silk from the reels, as above described, may also be
effected by mechanism similar to the regulators now in use for winding on
fabrics that have been woven. But as an inverse motion is required for this
purpose & as the weights R' attached to the warp of the fabric would unwind
the silk too rapidly, the following arrangement will answer the purpose. For
this purpose a toothed wheel g" is placed on one of the axes of the reels, or a
may be placed on its circumference, on which a pressure is exerted suffi-
cient to equallize the tension of the whole of the warp threads produced by
means of a weighted lever, as before described with reference to the com-
pensating regulator. This improved loom may be driven either by hand or
otherwise. The motion when imparted by hand is given by the weaver by
means of a bar, as understood. The Drawing represents the loom as provided
with two pullies, the one A" being loose on the driving shaft K, and the other
B" being fixed; a strap passes over one or other of these pullies when it is
wished either to drive or stop the machine. One arm of the fixed pulley
works a crank, to which is attached a rod C", D", one end of which is bent to
allow of the traverse of the batten; at the other end of shaft K is a
crank E, F jointed to the extremity of a rod F", G", similar to the preceding
& performing the same functions at the other end of the batten. The rod S, T,
which gives motion to the jacquard apparatus, bears on the excentric R by
means of two small rollers; it is held in a nearly vertical position by means of
arod m, o, jointed at both ends, o" to the fixed part of the frame, or it may
be fitted in a socket. In weaving fabrics, especially ribbons, there is great

page_text: carry
loss of time occupied by the numerous stoppages for changing the spools which
the weft. This
may in great part be avoided by substituting a reel H"
for the ordinary spools, which will hold much more silk, and also permit of the
weft threads always entering the eye of the shuttle in the same direction,
thereby preventing breakage. The ordinary shuttle is replaced by a shuttle
composed of two parts, the one I" is fixed and has rack teeth p", the other J11
forming the front is movable, & contains the reel H" on a vertical axis
carried by metal cross-pieces q". The front J" hooks on to the fixed part I"
by means of two knobs 1 running in grooves s". The employment of a
shuttle with a single reel does not, however, allow of the spools being dispensed
with when employing weft threads of several sizes; for this purpose two, three,
or more small reels K" are placed in the shuttle, each carrying one of the
threads forming the weft. The silk may be wound directly on these reels.
All the reels comprised in one shuttle carry the same length of thread, andall
the threads are united in eyes e" to form a weft thread of suitable size. The
axis of each reel is divided so as to form two arms, the friction of which
against the eye of the reel will regulate the tension of the weft. The weaver
may have several of these movable parts of thes huttles furnished with reels at
his disposal, so that a weak weft thread may be speedily removed & replaced
without loss of time.
I will now proceed to describe several improvements & modifications of the
loom, which are represented in Sheet 2 of the Drawings annexed, & consist,
1st, of an improved jacquard apparatus to be applied to looms for weaving
plain fabrics, termed a "racket; " 2ndly, in the action of the heddles or
plates; 3rdly, in the compensator for regulating the weft.
The first improvement consists in simplifying the jacquard mechanism, as far
as regards the spiral springs with which they are provided for acting ou the
needles. These springs are liable to become twisted and stretched by use
which impairs their elasticity, to remedy which I so modify the hook that
instead of its being acted on and maintained when at rest by the spiral spring,
as usual, it is made to act by its own weight combined with that of the
heddle which works it.
In order to make this improvement, represented at Figs. 1, 2, & 3, Sheet 2,
of the Drawings annexed, more readily understood, I have at Fig. 4 given
details of the old method. It consists, 1st, of a plate A pierced with a row
of holes; 2ndly, of a hook B; 3rdly, of a needle C; 4thly, of a spiral spring
D; 5thly, of a frame E for preventing deviation of the hooks. The cylinder a,
on which are wound the cords F & the two pins, one for stopping the spiral
springs, & the other for fixing the needles, are the same as usual. The follow-

page_text: ing is the action of the hook B; at a given moment the needle ineets with a
hole in one of the cards F, when the needle C being acted on by spiral spring
Dis pressed into the hole, & by this movement causes the upper extremity of
hook B to hear against the plate G, which then moves it, and by means of
hook H causes it to raise the heddle.
Fig. 1 represents the new arrangement of the above which is much simpler,
& consists, 1st, of a plate A pierced with two rows of holes; 2ndly, of a
hook B; 3rdly, of a needle C, the motion of which is limited by means of a
single pin b, the action of which is as follows:-The card D, which surrounds
the cylinder or drum E is pierced every time that the hook requires to be at
rest; but on reaching a plain card (see Fig. 2,) the needle C retires and so
causes the extremity of hook B to come in contact with plate E when the
hook is ready to be raised by the ascentional motion of the jacquard. Fig. 2
shows it on the point of leaving the flat part of plate A, and changing its posi
tion so as only to bear upon the projecting part of this plate; Fig. 3 shows
the hook B at the moment when the movement of the jacquard has raised it,
having abandoned its position on the plate A drawing with the collar F & the
heddle. In this manner it will be readily understood that it is no longer neces-
sary to guide this new hook from frame F, as in the ordinary arrangement,
Fig. 4, as in the latter case, the hook B on the one hand rests at the one end in
the first hole of plate A, and on the other hand is retained by the collar
engaged in the second plate and the weight supported by it, so that it cannot
in any way get out of position.
The second improvement in the ascentional motion of the heddles or plates,
as represented in the Drawings, consists in placing (for the purpose of more
conveniently overlooking the loom, and also reducing the number of pullies by
one half) the jacquard apparatus on one side of the loom, the pull is thus
direct for one side of the heddles and indirect for the other. The collar F
supports an iron wire G & leather strap H fixed at its centre by means of
screw I to pulley J, which it draws with it instead of running on it for the
purpose of facilitating the change of direction of the iron wire; this strap is
formed of leather of sufficient thickness, and previously stretched to prevent it
from lengthening. I would here observe that the heddles are lifted by means
of iron wires & straps instead of using cords as in ordinary, which by means of
the various pullies connect each heddle with the hooks of the mechanism. The
use of cords present these disadvantages, 1st, that they wear out very quickly;
2ndly, that the change of temperature affects them in various ways, causing
them to shrink in wet weather and slacken in dry weather, often also dis-
placing the heddles, & by these means the shuttle is caused in passing through

page_text: the fabric to throw the threads to the top side, which should have been on the
under, & vice versa, even if it does not break the greater number in its passage
by the friction.
This Invention further relates to a modification of the compensating regu-
lator, herein-before described, which being very expensive in its application, I
have sought to adopt ordinary regulators for my purpose, which, as well known,
consists of a series of gearing by adding to them a simple system of compensa-
tion. This arrangement is represented at Fig. 5, & consists of a large pulley A,
on which is mounted a small pulley B turning on the same axis. To the
pulley B is attached a cord, which after being wound round it several times
passes up in a vertical direction at C; the end of this cord is attached to a
cup D carrying a convex roller E; the ribbon after being woven on falling
from the frame is wound on the roller E, and from there it passes to the ordi-
nary winding apparatus. In the groove of the large pulley A, I place a second
cord, which after passing two or three times round it is thence conducted at F
over a pulley H at the under part of the frame; the ends F¹ being attached to
the weight P, which should be sufficiently heavy to balance the strain upon
the silk being woven. By establishing a greater of less relation between the
diameter of the small pulley B in communication with the ribbon, and that of
the pulley A which holds the weight in suspension, a diminution of weight P
is obtained, which allows of the strain on the silk being equallized by a very
small weight. When weaving, and the weft has been driven up by the batten,
the effect produced by this improved system of compensator will be as described
in the former part of this description, except that in this case the ordinary
regulator serves for winding the ribbon.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clark, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eleventh day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred & sixty-one.
W. CLARK. (L.S.)