Improvements in Marking out Cloth for Cutting, Embroidering, and the like, and in Apparatus and Materials used therefor.
Year: 1897

page_text: This Print is in accordance with the Original Specification as it stands after
Amendment (under Section 18 of the Patents, &c. Act, 1883) as allowed by
the decision of the Comptroller General, of the 12th day of May 1898.
Date of Application, 20th Mar., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 22nd May, 1897-Accepted, 3rd July, 1897
Improvements in Marking out Cloth for Cutting, Embroidering, and
the like, and in Apparatus and Materials used therefor.
I, JAMES MARSDEN, of The Limes, Standish, near Wigan, in the County of
Lancaster, Manufacturing Clothier, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:
This invention has for its object à process and apparatus for marking out (ready
for cutting by cutting machinery or by hand) cloth for clothing or the like, also
templets for this purpose. Hitherto pieces of card board or paper cut to the right
shape have been used for marking out by means of chalk on the cloth, the patterns
to be cut. This process besides being very clumsy and occupying much time,
frequently causes trouble owing to some little piece having been overlooked.
Now by my invention all the templets are in one piece and therefore any small
part cannot possibly be missed, and the marking out is much more accurately per-
formed as a first-class cutter can mark out the design and any unskilled hand can
do the remainder.
My process consists first in forming a tough cloth closely resembling paper, it
being linen, calico or the like, well filled with a tough filling secondly, in per-
forating this cloth with lines of fine perforations along the lines marked out by the
cutter, thirdly, in using this templet by placing it over the cloth, and rubbing the
marking material over it, thereby forming lines on the cloth with the material
which is passed through the holes, fourthly, passing the cloth thus marked between
heated rollers, whereby the marking material is made to adhère so strongly to the
cloth that it is not removed by any ordinary handling. My machinery consists
first in a machine for making the perforations closely resembling a sewing
machine, the difference between a sewing machine and this being that in place of
a handle there is a punch descending into a die exactly fitting it in the feed-plate
and also the mechanism of this punch and die are more firmly pressed so that they
shall register absolutely truly. The remaining mechanism is a long table on which
the cloth is unwound and upon which the templet a single lay is placed and the
powder rubbed in. At the end of the table are two rollers heated by gas jets and
capable of being rotated synchronously with each other. When two or three lays
have been marked in the way above described, the cloth is passed through these
rollers fixing the material on the cloth. The material I prefer to use is a powder
consisting preferably of three parts whiting, two parts resin and sufficient colouring
matter to well colour the material to the required shade. In some cases the powder
without any colouring matter can be used especially on dark cloth. In thus
describing my invention I wish to point out first that a gelatinous or even fluid
.

page_text: material can be used instead of a powder, secondly, that other modes of fixing can be
adopted besides heating so as to fuse the resin, thirdly, that in place of a filled cloth,
parchment paper or other like material could be used, fourthly, that in place of a
mechanical perforating device, a chemical perforating device could be used such
for instance as those used in some forms of multiple copying apparatus in which
a chemically prepared stiff paper is written on with a corrosive ink which destroys
the waterproofing of the paper and thus allows the ink used to pass through the
paper at those points, the corrosive matter not affecting the thinly woven fibrous
material forming the base of the paper. 5th. The template could be placed round
a large self inking roller and the pattern rolled continuously the ink exuding
through the corroded pattern in the paper.
Dated the 19th day of March 1897.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Of 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, Patent Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in Marking out Cloth for Cutting, Embroidering, and
the like, and in Apparatus and Materials used therefor.
I, JAMES MARSDEN, of The Limes, Standish, near Wigan, in the County of
Lancaster, Manufacturing Clothier, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention has for its object a system of marking out, ready for cutting by
cutting machinery or by hand, cloth for clothing or the like.
Hitherto templets of paper or cardboard have been used cut to the required shape.
These are placed on the cloth as close as practicable, and a line is drawn round the
edge with chalk. This marking can only be done by skilled labour, it is very slow
and often it turns out that some small templet has been overlooked and a part
omitted. To obviate this, it has been proposed to brand the patterns on the cloth
by means of printing machines, but this is a very slow process and is very costly, as
all the lines on the schemed lay have to be covered by strips of indiarubber which
make too thick a mark and are liable to get out of position.
Now my invention is designed to afford perfect accuracy, to prevent the pos-
sibility of pieces being omitted, to enable the designer to place his designs in the
best possible manner on the cloth and to enable the cloth to be marked in a more
expeditious and economical manner than heretofore.
In the drawings,
Figure 1 is a perspective view of the machine for punching or forming the
templet A; and
Figure 2 is a perspective view of the table on which the cloth is laid to be marked
out, and subsequently passed between heated rollers at one end, and on to an
automatic folding apparatus.
My invention practically consists of five different operations. I first form a cloth
for templet A of cotton, linen or the like well filled with a filling material such as
glue and pipe-clay so that the cloth strongly resembles in appearance stout paper.
The designer or cutter marks out on a length of this cloth all the templets for the
given article of clothing placed as close and compactly together as possible.
I then take a machine similar to a sewing machine except that in place of the
needle I have a small punch C and below this I have a tubular die D to fit it. The
punch mechanism and its supporting parts is stronger however than needle

page_text: mechanism and is so arranged as to absolutely register with the hollow die. The
machine has the same feeding device E as a sewing machine. The roll of cloth A
is accordingly placed in this machine and the perforator or punch C perforates with
this machine all the lines which the designer has made on the cloth, cutting the
cloth clean out of the perforated holes without leaving ragged edges. A single lay
of this cloth A is now placed on the cloth G to be marked and the colouring
material, hereafter described, is rubbed over the surface of the templet cloth. A
little falls through each perforation. The remainder of the powder is now swept
off the templet and the templet removed and placed on the cloth further on, when
the operation is again repeated, and so on. The powder I prefer to usé consists of
three parts whiting or precipitated chalk, two parts resin, and sufficient colouring
matter to well colour the powder to the required shade. For black and dark
coloured cloths no colouring matter is required. The cloth marked in this manner
is now passed between rollers F heated with gas flames. These melt the resin
in the powder and thus cause it to closely adhere to the cloth so that no ordinary
handling will eradicate the marks. The automatic folding attachment folds the
length of marked cloth; which can be cut singly, or used as the top pattern, fon
cutting any number of garments required, by shears, hand knife or cutting
machine. The cloth can now be rolled up and cut as required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. The process of marking cloth, which consists in placing a perforated templet
such as is claimed in the next following claim of the required design on the
cloth, rubbing through the perforations of the same a material capable of strongly
adhering to the cloth when treated in a given manner, and then fixing said marking
material in that manner substantially as described.
2. The improved stencil for marking cloth manufactured substantially as herein
described.
3. The templet perforating machine consisting of a sewing machine movement
and mechanisin, a punch and die replacing the needle, needle plate and shuttle,
substantially as described.
4. The complete apparatus constructed and arranged substantially as described.
Dated this 21st day of Alay 1897.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Of Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham and London, Patent Agents.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Of Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham and London, Patent Acents.