Ladies' and Childrens' Garments.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 7th July, 1888
Complete Specification Left, 6th Apr., 1889
Complete Specification Accepted, 8th June, 1889
Ladies' and Childrens' Garments.
I, JANE ANN GAunt, of Godwin Street, Bradford, in the County of York, Dress
Maker do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in the scales, templates or apparatus for
drafting patterns for ladies or childrens garments and particularly to improvements
in the apparatus for which Letters Patent were granted to William Tate Philpott
dated the 10th day of September A.D. 1882 and numbered 1299.
The object of my invention is to simplify the use of such scales or templates and
thus adapt them to be more conveniently and usefully used by persons without
previous training in the art to which they appertain.
The said improvements consist in the application and arrangement of the various
scales hereinafter described as well as the relative position of certain of the curvilinear
edges, by which the movements of the apparatus are greatly reduced, thereby
expediting the drafting process and also insuring superior accuracy whilst requiring
less skill in its manipulation.
For this purpose I employ a scale or templet approximately the shape but
preferably of a larger size than the one described in the specification of the above
cited Letters Patent, and provided with slots and perforations by which certain
arbitary measurements common to all sizes of garments may be marked in a direct
manner.
I also employ, what I hereinafter term, dual scales in certain cases as for instance :
the scales for measuring the waist and the position of front bust line or depth of the
arm hole, by which means the two different "cuts" commonly distinguished as
French and American bodices may be drafted as desired. The said dual scales
consist in forming the more common scale in the ordinary manner with the divisions
marked by numerals or letters, then using inclined divisional lines for the other scale
extending from the edge of the apparatus, where they form the scale, to the
distinguishing letters or numerals of the divisional lines of the other. scale.

page_text: For finding the position of the first dart I employ a fixed measure preferably
consisting of two lines lying at such an angle with each other that they cut the edge
of the scale at the part where they diverge to the proper distance for measuring the
position of the first dart. A similar arrangement is provided for giving the distance
between the first and second darts.
To mark off the relative widths of the two darts, which generally are divided in
the proportion of one third in the first and two thirds in the second darts, I provide
a dart calculator to be used in co-operation with a left and right one sixth scale
having a divisional line or point between them, and a left and right one third scale
having a similar divisional line. The said dart calculator consists of a column of
inches and divisions of inches representing the various measurements the darts are
required to take up, and each measurement is distinguished by a letter or numeral
and the corresponding divisions of the said left and right scales are marked with
corresponding letters and numerals. Thus to mark off the relative size of the darts,
the amount of materials required to be taken up by the darts is ascertained, and the
letter or numeral opposite such measurement on the calculator is then referred to on
the said left and right hand scales, which shows the amount to be taken up by each
dart as well as marking the centro line of such darts. A graduated slot or a
perforation or perforations are provided above for marking in a direct manner the
top of the darts.
To draft the collar I employ curved slots in the scale or template graduated with a
half inch scale to measure the different lengths of collars.
For the purpose of dividing the front, and front side quarter during the drafting
I employ a taper slit the sides of which approximately mect at one end and are
inclined to each other at a suitable angle.
Curved slots are also used for marking both the side hip curves without removing
the scale.
The extension of the front hip curve to correspond to the contraction of the larger
dart I obtain by a curved slot arranged in position by a sign on the collar curve.
For simultaneously obtaining the back line of the back and the back line of the
back side quarter I arrange one side of the said taper slit at the requisite distance
from and parallel with the edge of the apparatus and use a definite mark on one of
the side hip curves to assist in placing such instrument in position.
I so relatively arrange the various scales slots and perforations on the instrument
that I am enabled to draft the back and the skirt without turning such apparatus
over. The arrangement of the scales for drafting the front require it to be turned
once over and back, whereas the common arrangement of such scales necessitates the
apparatus being frequently turned over and its position changed.
Dated this 5th day of July 1888.

page_text: Ladies' and Childrens' Garments.
I, JANE ANN GAUNT, of Godwin Street, Bradford in the County of York, Dress
Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-.
This invention relates to improvement in scales, templates or apparatus for drafting
patterns for ladies or childrens garments and particularly to improvements in the
apparatus or instrument for which Letters Patent were granted to William Tate
Philpott dated the 10th day of September A.D. 1882 and Numbered 1299.
The object of my invention is to simplify the use of such scales or templates and
thus adapt them to be more conveniently and usefully employed by persons without
previous training in the art to which they appertain.
The said improvements consist in the combination and arrangement of the various
scales hereinafter described as well as the relative position of certain of the curvilinear
edges, by which means the necessary movements of the apparatus when in use are
greatly reduced thereby expediting the drafting process and also insuring greater
accuracy whilst requiring less skill in its manipulation.
For the purpose of fully describing my invention reference is to be had to the
accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification.
Figure 1 represents a view of my improved apparatus showing the side hereinafter
termed the front side, the scale along the bottom edge is an inch scale up to twenty
six inches in the full sized apparatus.
Figure 2, is a view of the other side of said apparatus (hereinafter referred to as
the back), with the upper portion broken away.
Figure 3, is a diagram to illustrate the method of using the instruinent to draft a
pattern of the back and back-side quarter of a bodice.
Figure 4 is a pattern of the front and front-side quarter of a bodice.
Figure 5, is a pattern sleeve on a smaller scale.
Figure 6, is a pattern of the upper part of the front of a skirt.
Figure 7, is a similar pattern of the side quarter and figure 8, is a pattern of the
back of the skirt.
It will be seen that the apparatus or template is approximately the shape of the
one described in the specification of the above cited Letters Patent although of larger
size, but it is provided with slots and perforations by which certain measurements
common to all sizes of garments cut on this principle may be marked in a direct
manner as well as providing useful additions to the curvilinear edges. The application
is fully described hereafter in the description of drafting the patterns represented
upon sheet 2.
I also employ what I hereinafter term dual scales in certain cases as for instance
the back waist scale, the bust scales, slope of shoulder scales, and front arm hole
scale, by which means the two different cuts or shapes commonly distinguished as
เ
"

page_text: French and American or ordinary bodices may be drafted as desired. The said dual
scales consist in forming the more common scale in the ordinary manner (the French
scales are arranged in this manner in the drawings) with the divisions marked by
numerals or letters, then using inclined divisional lines, preferably thicker to more
clearly distinguish them, for the other scales extending from the edge of the scale to
the distinguishing letters or numerals of the divisional lines of the other scale.
For finding the position of the first dart I employ a fixed measure on the back of
the scale represented by the lines a 6 lying at such an angle with each other that
they form a triangle with the bottom edge and diverge so as to cut such edge the
proper distance apart for measuring the position of the first dart. The lines c d are
similarly arranged for giving the distance between the first and second darts.
To mark off the relative widths of the two darts, which in the case of French
darts commonly used are divided in the proportion of one third in the first dart and
two thirds in the second I provide a dart calculator e to be used in co-operation with
a left and right one sixth scale g having a central division or point between them, and
a left and right one third scale having a similar central division. The said dart
calculator consists of a column of numerals representing in inches and divisions of
inches the various measurements the darts are required to take up, and each
measurement is distinguished by a letter or numeral and the division of the said
dart scales arranged to give the proportional amount to be taken up by each dart
is distinguished by a similar letter.
To draft the collar I provide the curved slots i and j having a half inch scale to
measure the different lengths, the lines for the patterns being drawn from the end k
of such slots to the division corresponding to the size of the collar. In case the
collar is marked direct upon the fabric such fabric is doubled and the folded edge
placed beneath the division giving the size of the collar.
For the purpose of dividing the pattern of the front and front side quarter during
drafting I employ a taper slit m the sides of which approximately meet at the top
and are inclined to each other at a suitable angle.
Referring now to the drafting of the back and back-side quarter. The dotted
lines A, B are first drawn, by using the sides n and o of the apparatus at right angles
to each other and approximately the length of such sides, to form a guide for the
further drafting. Before moving the scale from this position a dot C is made on
the line A opposite star p upon the scale and a dot D lower down marking off by the
inch measure along n the length of the back to the waist. The slope of the shoulder
dot E is also marked from the back shoulder slope scale or perforations on the
apparatus. The end r of the curved slit for drafting the neck is then placed upon
dot C and the apparatus moved until the division in the back neck scale corresponding
to the size of the neck rest upon line B then with the apparatus in this position the
line F is drawn by means of such curved slit. The shoulder line G is now drawn
from the point where the curve F cuts B by placing the top corners of the apparatus
upon this point and drawing a line the length of the shoulder by means of the inch
measure towards E. The apparatus is now moved so as to bring its edge n parallel
with and touching A and the edge o touching the bottom of the line G this brings
the back arm hole scale in position and the dot H is made opposite the division upon
such scale corresponding to the neck measurement. The apparatus is now drawn
down parallel from this last position until its edge o touches dot H and dot I marked
opposite the division upon the back bust scale corresponding to the measurement of
the bust. The arm hole curve J is drawn by placing start upon I and drawing a
line by means of the curve to the bottom of line G, dot K is at the same time marked
opposite the sign marked the first shoulder seam. For marking off the spring or the
hollow of back the apparatus is placed with the corner u upon dot D and make dot L
opposite the dual sign for spring of back, at the same time the dot M indicating the
length of the waist line N is marked by means of the back waist scale and the line N
is then drawn from M to L. The spring of back line N¹ is now drawn from L to C.
The first back and side hip lines O and P are obtained by placing the apparatus with
the back waist arrow upon dot L and arrow touching line A then drawing O by

page_text: means of edge n of the apparatus and drawing P to the bottom of the edge m of the
taper slit parallel with it. To obtain the back and side hip dots Q & R the corner u
of the apparatus is placed upon the bottom of P and its edge n resting against it and
dots are marked opposite the proper divisions of the first and second back hip scales.
Then the lines R¹ and S are drawn from such dots to the top of P and the dot M.
The under arm line T is drawn by placing the arrow x upon the dot M and the
curved edge of the apparatus touching 1. And to obtain the shoulder seam line U
shoulder seam arrow a¹ is placed upon dot K with the curved edge touching the
junction of lines P and R¹.
Referring now to the front and front side quarter. The lines A and B are drawn
as above described and dot C is made upon A opposite the size of neck on the scale 61
of the apparatus and dot D is marked form the inch measure opposite the length of
front, dot E is also marked at the corner u of the apparatus and dot F determining the
slope of the shoulder is marked opposite a division of the front slope of shoulder scale
according to whether the garment being drafted is required to be square, inadium or
low. The neck line G is drawn by placing r of the neck curve upon dot C and moving
the instrument until the size of the neck of the front neck scale c rests upon the
line B. The shoulder line H is now drawn from where the curve G cuts B by placing
the corner S of the instrument upon this point and drawing a line the length of the
shoulder by means of the inch measure towards dot F. Dot I, for defining the
position of the instrument when obtaining the depth of the bust line J from the bottom
of line H, is marked when the instrument is placed with its edge n against the line A
and the edge o touching the bottom of line H, then dot I is marked opposite the
division upon the front arm hole scale corresponding to the size of the neck measure-
ment. Line J is drawn through I with the edge o of the scale against line A by
means of edge n such line extending to the division on the front bust scale corre-
sponding to the size of the bust. The dotted line K is drawn by placing the dual
sign d' on the short edge o of the apparatus at the end of line J and drawing K
down the edge n parallel to A at the same time dot L is marked opposite star p.
To find the position of lines M and N, defining the corset dart or division between
the front and front side quarters, and hip curves O and P, the division on the under
arm scale representing the under arm measurement is placed upon the top of line K
and hip arrow e touching such line then lines M and N are drawn from line J to
the bottom of the taper slit and also the lines O and P are drawn without moving
the apparatus with curves 3 and 4. The tops of curves 0 and P are joined by
line Q, and R is drawn from the top of P to the end of line J. The dotted waist
line S is drawn from bottom of line M to dot D.
To find the amount to be taken up in the darts or breast pleats the scale is turned
over and the corner 3 placed at the junction of the lines R, Q and P and a dot T is
marked at the point where the division on the front waist scale indicating the waist
measurement touches line S then the distance from this dot to dot D gives the amount
to be taken up by the darts. The dart calculators shown on this side of the apparatus
and dart scales are provided to indicate the relative proportion and position of the
darts. When two darts of equal size are required the ordinary dart calculator and scale
áre used and assuming that four inches requires to be taken up the line a of the large
triangle is placed upon dot D, dot U is marked off the distance between the lines a
and 6 upon line S then upon referring to the ordinary dart calculator y the letter G
opposite the four inch division gives the corresponding letter to use on the dart scale.
The letter G in the left hand side of the ordinary dart scale 9 is now placed upon dot U
and the distance to the same letter on the right hand side of such scale gives the
width of the dart, the centre being also marked by the centre line g¹ of the scale.
The distance between the lines c and d of the small triangle gives the distance between
the darts and the size of the second dart is then obtained by repeating the process for
obtaining the first dart. In the case of bodices continued below the waist, centre
lines are drawn approximately eleven inches long from the centre of the dart parallel
with line A and then lines are drawn from the dart dots to the bottom of these
.lines.

page_text: When French darts or darts of unequal size are used as shown in figure 4 the first
and second French dart scales are used in combination with the French dart calculator
in place of those above described and in a similar manner.
The dot V being marked from U by the first dart scale g then the small triangle
No. 2 is used to give dot W and the second scale h is employed to obtain dot X, the
centre dots Y and Z being also marked from the centres g₁ of such scales. The
dots A, B, C and D¹ are marked in a line with dot E in the same manner but
the larger triangle No. 1 is used to mark the distance between the bottom of the
darts. The dot E' is marked the same distance from E as the width of the first or
small dart and the lines F, G, H¹ J¹ and K' are now drawn.
To obtain the front hip extension line L' the top of curve 6 is placed at the junction
of lines M and S and the letter given by the dart calculator marking the division on
the front hip extension scale on curve 7 touching line K and line L' is drawn from M
and S to the bottom of curve 6.
To make line R the length of line T in back drafting Figure 3, arrow it is placed at
the junction of lines P, Q and R and the curved edge touching end of line J and M'
is drawn to length required. Front arm hole curve N¹ is obtained by placing the
front arm hole sign j¹ (shown dotted in position at the back of Fig. 1) upon dot L
and drawing line N to the end of line H by means of curved edge of k². The arm
hole curve, for front side quarter, O¹ is drawn by placing under arm arrow m¹ upon
dot L and drawing O' to the top of line M¹.
To get the height of the dart the apparatus is turned over to the front side and the
edge o is placed against line J the edge n first touching dot Z and make dot P¹
opposite the sign on the long edge n marked second dart. Then the apparatus is
moved so that such edge touches the centre Y of first dart and dot Q₁ made through
the perforation marked first dart, lines R¹ and S¹ are obtained by placing the dart
arrow at the bottom of curve 4 upon the dots X and V and drawing the lines R' and S
to P and Q by means of curve 4. Lines T¹ and U¹ are obtained by placing the
arrow upon dots U and W and drawing such lines to dots Q¹ and P¹ by the curved
edge of the apparatus.
Dot V₁ is made on the line A three inches above dot D and dot W¹ is made three
quarters of an inch above line J then arrow is placed upon dot V₁ and the curve Y¹
is drawn to dot W¹.
In the sleeve pattern shown in figure 5 the dotted lines A and B are drawn as before
and without moving the scale dot C is made at the distance from the shoulder to
elbow and dot D made at the point d³ on edge o, and dot E at the division in the top
of sleeve scale No. 1 corresponding to the size of neck. Line F is made by placing
the division of the top of the sleeve scale No. 2 corresponding to the size of the neck
upon top of line A and drawing F to dot C. Dot G is marked through one of the
perforations n according to whether the sleeve is for an adult, girl or child by placing
arrow o' at the top of the line A with edge n against such line. The curved line H is
drawn from dot G to top of line F with arrow against dot G. Corners of the appa-
ratus is now placed. upon dot C with the end p' of neck curve touching line A. Dotted
line J is then drawn to the division on the elbow scale corresponding to the girth of
the arm at the elbow. Dot K is made with the apparatus in this position opposite o¹.
To draw L, corner s is placed upon C with p¹ against line J, and Lis drawn the length
of the sleeve from elbow to wrist by the inch measure along n. Corners is now
moved to bottom of line L with edge o against such line and line M is drawn to the
proper length by means of wrist scale, dot N is also marked opposite arrow o¹. Lines O,
P and Q are now drawn from M to J by placing arrow a upon M and drawing along
the curved edge. Sleeve arrow is placed upon dot E and line R is drawn along
the curved edge to join line Q. Arrow s on the back of the scale is placed upon the
dot G and line S drawn along the curved edge to dot E. And is now placed upon
'dot E and curved line T drawn to dot D. And arrow t' is placed upon dot K and
curved line drawn to dot D.
The front of skirt in figure 6 is preferably drafted directly upon the lining of the
skirt which is doubled and the edge 'n of the apparatus placed upon the folded edge A,

page_text: line B is drawn along O to the division in the skirt waist scale corresponding to the
waist measurement and dots C and D are made opposite the line c² and d² of the skirt
dart of the apparatus and dot E is made at the junction of such lines through the
perforation e. Dot is also made opposite star p and line G is drawn from dot F
to the end of line B. The top of curve 4 is placed upon the end of line B with the
top of curve 3 touching such line and line H is drawn from the end of line B to the
hottom of curve 4 this line is then continued to the bottom of the skirt.
The skirt side-quarter shown in figure 7 is drafted with the edge n of the apparatus
parallel with the selvedges A of the folded lining, star u¹ edge o being placed upon
the selvedge and line B is now drawn from star u² to the division on the skirt waist
scale corresponding to the waist measurement. The top curve 3 is now placed upon
the end of line B with curve 4 touching such line then line is drawn from end
of line B to bottom of curve 3 and continued parallel with the selvedge to length
required. Line D is drawn from the end of B to the bottom of the skirt.
The back of skirt figure 8 is drafted with the edge n against the selvedge A and
the edge o against the end B of the lining and dot C is marked opposite arrow o¹ and
dot D made at half the width of the doubled lining. Dots E, F and G are made
opposite S4, S5, and S on the edge of the taper slit m and line H is drawn from
dot to dot D. The top of slit m is now placed at the end of line B and dots J, K
and L are marked on the fold M of the lining opposite S1, S2 and S3 lines N, O,
and P are now drawn to define the position of the steels for the dress improver.
Line A is continued to the bottom of the skirt from dot C.
It will be seen from the above description that the various scales and perforations
are so relatively arranged upon the apparatus that I am enabled to draft the back
and the skirt without turning such apparatus over. The arrangement of the scales
for drafting the front require it to be turned over and back, whereas the common
arrangement of such scales necessitates the apparatus being frequently turned over
and its position more frequently changed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I do not
broadly claim the use of slots or perforations nor one or more curvilinear sides of
the apparatus as I am aware these are in general use but what I claim is :
1. In an apparatus for drafting dress patterns, the combination and arrangement
of the various scales and signs substantially as herein shown and described and for
the purpose specified.
2. The combination with apparatus for drafting dress patterns, of the curved slots
for obtaining the position and form of the hip curves, the taper slit m with one
side parallel with the long edge, the curve 6 with front hip extension scale on
curve 7, and the skirt dart signs with skirt waist scale, substantially as herein
shown and described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings and for the purpose
specified.
3. The combination with apparatus for drafting dress patterns of the herein termed
dual scales, substantially as herein shown and described.
4. The combination with apparatus for drafting dress patterns of the dart calculators
and dart scales arranged substantially as herein shown and described.
D
17
1
1000
DRACUP & NOWELL.