Improvements in or relating to Insoles for Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1896

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to Insoles for Boots and Shoes.
:
We ADAM REED residing at 407 Felix Street St. Joseph Missouri, U.S.A.
Chiropodist, and GEORGE JOHN WINTER residing at 676 Broadway, Buffalo New
York, U.S.A. Commercial Traveller, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in that class of welt shoes which have a
cushion sole arranged upon the inner side of the leather insole and interposed
between said leather insole and a soft leather covering connected by stitches with the
insole and it has for its general object to render such shoes easier of production and
consequently cheaper by connecting the soft leather covering to the insole by a single
line of stitches in a simple and cheap manner so as to hold the cushion sole in position
thereon and so as to permit of the leather insole being afterwards placed upon a last
and having the upper, its lining and the welt connected to it by another single line
of stitches.
Other objects and advantages of the invention will be fully understood from the
following description and claim when taken in connection with the accompanying
drawing in which:
Figure 1, is a perspective view of so much of a shoe as is necessary to illustrate the
invention, with the parts in a position to better show the manner in which they are
connected together, and:
Figure 2, is a transverse section with the parts in their proper relative positions.
Referring by letter to said drawings:
A indicates the leather insole of the improved shoe. The said insole A bas its
underside slit or undercut adjacent to its edge as indicated by a, and it also has its
underside skived as indicated by b, to form the thin edge portion c, the purpose and
advantage of which will be presently described.
B indicates a tape of about the proportional width illustrated which is preferably..
formed of a suitable piece of textile material and is designed to extend all around the
edge of the insole A; C indicates the cushion sole which is by preference formed of
lambs wool and covers the entire upper side of the leather insole A, so as to render
the shoe very comfortable to the wearer and promote the cure of callous growths by
removing the cause of the same which is the hard leather insoles of the ordinary.
shoe; D indicates the soft leather cover of the cushion sole C, which is designed and
adapted to entirely cover said cushion sole and prevent perspiration and wear from'
deteriorating the same; E indicates the upper of the shoe; F the lining of said
upper and G the welt.
"In practising the invention and forming the improved shoe, we take the leather
insole above described and lay the tape B, against the underside of the skived or
thin portion c, thereof and then connect the tape and such thin portion of the:
insole all around such sole by stitches d, which take directly through the tape and:
the thin portion of the insole as shown. These stitches d may be made by hand-
but I prefer, for the sake of cheapness and expedition, to form them and connect:
the tape and insole by a sewing machine inasmuch as the thin edge portion c, of
the insole and the fact that the tape is connected to said insole before any of the:
other parts, admit and are designed to admit of the employment of a machine for:
such purpose.
When the tape B has been properly connected to the insole A, as just described,
the cushion sole C is placed upon the upper side of the insole and is preferably
connected by cement thereto, after which the soft leather cover D, is placed upon
the cushion C, and is connected at its edge by the stitches e, to the edge of the

page_text: tape B. These. stitches e, are formed by hand, and the cover D, and tape B, are
of such a size with respect to the insole A, that when the stitches are drawn taut
by the sewer the contiguous edges of the tape and cover will be drawn together
and the tape will be drawn tight over the edge of the insole so as not to materially
increase the width of the shoe, and the tape will rest snugly against the underside
of the thin portion c, of the sole so as not to render the shoe unsightly or clumsy
in appearance.
The cushion C, its cover D, and the tape B, having been connected with the insole A,
and together as just described, the said insole is ready for the connection of the upper E,
its lining F, and the welt G. This is accomplished by placing the sole A, and its
connected parts upon a last with the soft leather cover D, next to the last, then
placing the upper and its lining on the last and lasting the upper and lining
to and upon the bottom side of the insole and then connecting the welt G, the upper E,
and the lining F, to the insole A, by a single line or row of stitches H, which take
only through the undercut portion of the insole and through the parts mentioned, viz.:
the welt G, upper E, and lining F, in the manner better shown in Figure 2.
The outer walking or tap sole (not illustrated) may be and preferably is put on in
the way ordinarily practised in making shoes.
It will be observed from the foregoing that the manner described of connecting the
tape B, to the insole A, and the cover D, to said tape so as to hold the cushion sole C,
in position and protect the same, is very cheap and simple and may be quickly and
easily accomplished in the manner described which materially reduces the cost of
this part of the shoe. It will also be observed that the connection of the parts above
mentioned to the insole A, is entirely independent of the connection of the upper E,
its lining F, and the welt G. This is highly desirable since it admits of the connection
of the tape B, cushion C, and cover D, to the insole A, being quickly accomplished
with a sewing machine by one person who may or may not be a shoemaker and the
connection of the upper E, its lining F, and the welt G, as well as the connection of the
walking sole which is common.in welt shoe making being accomplished by a shoe maker
of ordinary skill. Indeed when desired, soles A, of various sizes and shapes with the
tape B, cushion C, and cover D, connected thereto as described may, with advantage,
be placed upon the market as articles of manufacture and worked into shoes in the
same manner as ordinary soles by shoe-makers of ordinary skill.
In addition to the foregoing. it will be observed that our improvements do not add
greatly to the expense of a shoe and that they do not in any appreciable degree add to
the width, size and weight of the shoe which is an important advantage.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that. what we
claim is :
L
The herein described shoe consisting essentially of the leather insole A, having the
undercut a, in its underside and also having such underside skived to form the thin
edge portion c, the tape B, resting partly beneath and flat against the thin edge
portion c. of the insole, the vertical stitches d, taking directly through and con-
necting the tape B, and the thin edge portion of the insole A, the cushion sole C,
arranged upon the upper side of the insole A, the soft leather cover D, arranged
upon the cushion sole, the stitches e, connecting the contiguous edges of the tape B,
and cover D, and serving to draw the tape tight against the insole, the upper E,
lapped against the tape B, the welt G, laid against the lapped portion of said upper,
and the single line or row of stitches H, separate from the stitches e, and connecting
the undercut portion of the insole A, the upper and the welt, all as and for the
purpose set forth.
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40 Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.
J