Improvements in the Manufacture of Hose, whether Knitted or Woven and other like Fabrics or Articles, and in the Yarn used in the said Manufacture, and in Machinery for Producing such Yarrs.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Aug., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 22nd Nov., 1898-Accepted, 28th Jan., 1899
Date of Application, 6th Aug., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 22nd Nov., 1898-Accepted, 28th Jan., 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Hose, whether Knitted or
Woven and other like Fabrics or Articles, and in the Yarn used
in the said Manufacture, and in Machinery for Producing such
Yarrs.
I, ISAAC BRIGGS, Junior, of the Firm of Isaac Briggs & Sons, Rutland Mills,
Wakefield, in the County of York, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of
my said invention to be as follows:-
My invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of hose whether
knitted or woven and other like fabrics and in the yarn used and in machinery for
producing the yarn for the said manufacture which enables me to produce hose
or such like articles gradually tapered down from one part or portion to the other
in varying thicknesses and in taking hose such as is used for shooting, golfing,
cycling &c., as an example of my new manufacture. I make the said hose say
4 fold 16s in thickness at the top of stocking, 4 fold 14s above the calf, 4 fold 129
at the calf, 4 fold 14s at the lower portion of the calf to say 4 fold 16s at the higher
part of the ankle, and 4 fold 18s at the ankle, and throughout the foot, as another
example say: 4 fold 12s at top of stocking and for the calf diminishing to 4 fold 14s
and 4 fold 16s for the ankle and foot. These sizes are however only mentioned as
examples in stating the object of my invention as it will be evident that the object
is to suit the required thickness of the garment to the particular parts requiring
more or less thickness by a long and gradual taper in the said thickness or substance
so that no sudden changes shall appear in the garment when finished to cause ridges
or unsightly changes which are always detrimental to an accurate fit and an even
and symmetrical configuration and appearance. Indeed by this means not only is
the strength of the garment increased by the very gradual changes in thickness
but the appearance of the limb covered may be greatly improved.
For manufacturing such hose or garments I produce a length of yarn of so many
hundred feet or of any length sufficient to complete the particular garment to its
finish or to that portion where a long uniform thickness is required, such for instance
as to the ankle of cycling or other hose, when a joining may be made to yarn of
same thickness as the finishing length of the graduated yarn to complete the foot
of the hose as will be clearly understood and the fabrics may be either knitted or
woven from such lengths of yarn which may be wound and delivered for sale on
spools, cheeses, balls, or in hank.
According to my method of manufacture of spinning the thread the variation
is done quite gradually and imperceptibly, the increase and diminution being
spread gradually and evenly over a considerable length of yarn and thus the
knickerbocker stocking or other garment is produced accordingly.
In preparing the yarn I may use any suitable spinning, doubling or twisting
machinery, Alver, cap, ring, or mule frames, so as to obtain the graduated thickness
or in the single varn a graduated twist to correspond with the counts.
or in the folded or double yarn a graduated twist and these modes may be used

page_text: separately or in any combination at will. In accomplishing this object I mount
upon the spinning frame a pair of graduated rollers, .e., with varying diameter
along their length the larger diameter of the one roller being opposite to the
smaller diameters of the other roller and vice versa and these rollers impart. or regu-
late the speed of the feed and draft rollers through which the rovings are run so
that the draft upon the rovings is varied in exact proportion to the relation between
the diameters of the graduated rollers aforesaid and the changes in thickness or
bulk of the spun thread is produced by the inclination or change from one diameter
to the others of the graduated rollers while the driving band is traversed from one
end to the other of the said rollers or over parts of the rollers in such a manner
as to vary the results as desired. Of course. with this arrangement of the spinning
frame the spindles are or may be run at their constant speed and the winding on
to the bobbins in the usual way.
To effect a similar graduated alteration in the twist imparted by the spindle
which may be useful where the differences in thickness of the yarn are extreme I
proceed as follows:-The main shaft of the spinning frame-with its cylinder
drives all the other motions. The spindles are driven direct from the cylinder
and their speed is of course ordinarily a fixed quantity, In the ordinary spinning
frame a small pulley or gearing is fixed upon the driving shaft driving a large
pulley in the socket of which a change wheel is geared running into a large toothed
wheel on the front roller shaft. Now according to my arrangement instead of the
small pulley or gearing on the driving shaft I mount a cone thereon which drives
on to another cone the larger and smaller diameters facing each other and from the
second cone the driving strap is connected with the front roller driving. By this
means and the traverse of the band which may also be varied in speed at different
parts of its traverse the delivery of the yarn is quicker or slower by the feed rollers
and therefore more or less twist is put into it by the spindles. These cones or
rollers may be variable and not straight if desired.
In the process of doubling there is of course no drafting, the feed rollers become
the delivery rollers for the threads and therefore to produce a gradually increasing
or decreasing twist I adopt the graduated rollers first before mentioned with the
traverse driving band and thus as the speed of the delivery rollers is decreased more
twist is put in and vice versa.
It will of course be obvious that various forms of differential gearing may be
used to approximate to the same result in either the feeding or twisting or both
but I prefer the one hereinbefore set forth as the simplest and most easily applied
to existing machines.
Dated this 5th J... Ր A
1000
Improvements in the Manufacture of Hose, whether Knitted or
Woven and other like Fabrics or Articles, and in the Yarn used
in the said Manufacture, and in Machinery for Producing such
Yarns.
I, ISAAC BRIGGS, Junior, of the Firm of Isaac Briggs & Sons, Rutland Mills,
Wakefield, in the County of Yorkshire, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature

page_text: of my said invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
-
My invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of hose whether
knitted or woven and other like fabrics and in the yarn used and in machinery for
producing the yarns for the said manufacture which enables me to produce hose
or such like articles gradually tapered down from one part or portion to the other
in varying thicknesses and in taking hose such as is used for shooting, golfing,
cycling, &c., as an example of my new manufacture I make the said hose say
4 fold 16s in thickness at the top of stocking, 4 fold 14s above the calf, 4 fold 12s
at the calf, 4 fold 14s at the lower portion of the calf to say 4 fold 16s at the higher
part of the ankle, and 4 fold 18s at the ankle, and throughout the foot, as another
example say: 4 fold 12s at top of stocking and for the calf diminishing to 4 fold 148,
and 4 fold 16s for ankle and foot. These sizes are however only mentioned as
examples in stating the object of my invention as it will be evident that the object
is to suit the required thickness of the garment to the particular parts requiring
more or less thickness by a long and gradual taper in the said thickness or substance
so that no sudden changes shall appear in the garment when finished to cause ridges
or unsightly changes which are always detrimental to an accurate fit and an even
and symmetrical configuration and appearance. Indeed by this means not only is
the strength of the garment increased by the very gradual changes in the thickness
but the appearance of the limb covered may be greatly improved.
For manufacturing such hose or garments I produce a length of yarn of so many
hundred feet or of any length sufficient to complete the particular garment to its
finish or to that portion where a long uniform thickness is required, such for instance
as to the ankle of cycling or other hose, when a joining may be made to yarn of
same thickness as the finishing length of the graduated yarn to complete the foot
of the hose as will be clearly understood and the fabrics may be either knitted or
woven from such length of yarn which may be wound and delivered for sale on
spools, cheeses, balls, or in hank.
According to my method of manufacture of spinning the thread the variation
is done quite gradually and imperceptibly, the increase and diminution being
spread gradually and evenly over a considerable length of yarn and thus the
knickerbocker stocking or other garment is produced accordingly.
In preparing the yarn I may use any suitable spinning doubling, or twisting
machinery, flyer, cap, ring or mule frames so as to obtain the graduated thickness
in the single yarn and when required a graduated twist to correspond with the counts,
or in the folded or double yarn a graduated twist and these medes may be used
separately or in any combination at will, In accomplishing this object I mount
upon the spinning frame a pair of graduated rollers, i.e. with varying diameters
along their length the larger diameter of the one roller being opposite to the
smaller diameter of the other roller and vice versa and these rollers impart or regu-
late the speed of the feed rollers through which the rovings are run so
that the draft upon the rovings is varied in exact proportion to the relation between
the diameters of the graduated rollers aforesaid and the changes in thickness or
bulk of the spun thread is produced by the inclination or change from one diameter
to the others of the graduated rollers while the driving band is traversed from one
end to the other of the said rollers, or over parts of the rollers in such a manner
as to vary the results as desired. Of course with this arrangement of the spinning
frame the spindles are or may be run at their constant speed and the winding on
to the bobbins in the usual way.
To effect a similar graduated alteration in the twist imparted by the spindle
which may be useful where the difference in thickness of the yarn is extreme I
introduce a second pair of graduated rollers or cones between the driving shaft and
the delivery rollers so varying the speed of delivery of yarn from rollers P and
thus increasing or reducing the twist imparted by the spindle. The main shaft

page_text: of the spinning frame with its cylinder drives all the other motions. The spindles
are driven direct from the cylinder and their speed is of course ordinarily a fixed
quantity. In the ordinary spinning frame a small pulley or gearing is fixed upor
the driving shaft driving a large pulley in the socket of which a change wheel
is geared running into a large toothed wheel on the front roller shaft. Now
according to my arrangement instead of the small pulley or gearing on the driving
shaft I mount a cone or step pulleys or expanding and contracting drums thereon
which drives on to another cone, the larger and smaller diameters facing each other,
and from the second cone or step pulleys or expanding or contracting drums the
driving strap is connected with the front roller driving mechanism. By this
means and the traverse of the band which may also be varied in speed at different
parts of its traverse the delivery of the yarn is quicker or slower and therefore
more or less twist is put into it by the spindles. These cones or rollers may be
variable and not straight if desired.
In the process of doubling there is of course no drafting, the feed rollers become
the delivery rollers for the threads and therefore to produce a gradually increasing
or decreasing twist I adopt the graduated rollers first before mentioned with the
traverse driving band and thus as the speed of the delivery rollers is decreased more
twist is put in and vice versa.
It will of course be obvious that various forms of differential gearing may be
used to approximate to the same result in either the feeding or twisting or both
but I prefer the one hereinbefore set forth as the simplest and most easily applied
to existing machines.
In order that my invention may be more clearly understood I have annended
hereunto four double sized sheets of drawings upon which a machine is illustrated
suitable for the nurnose which will be a sufficient example to enable others to
apply the invention to other existing circumstances. The machinery shewn as an
example with the variable cones C and C¹ are suitable to produce variations in the
thickness of the yarn approximately as follows:-Commencing at 16s counts.
increasing to 12s and finishing at 22s, but these may of course be varied at will
as before set forth and as hereafter explained.
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a spinning frame suited to the purpose of my
invention.
Figure 2 is an end elevation of the same spinning frame.
The letters of reference used unon the drawings are as follows:-
A is the cvlinder driven in the usual way from any line of shafting and from
which the spindles &c. are driven.
B is a pulley on the cylinder shaft from which the pulley B2 is driven by the
driving band B¹.
C is the variable driving cone hung upon the shaft C2 upon which the pulley B²
is hung and C is the driven variable cone which is carried by the shaft c³.
D is the strap connecting the two variable cones C and C¹.
E is a pinion on the cone shaft c³, and F is a pinion on the feed roller shaft f¹,
the two pinions E and F being connected by any convenient speed gear such for
instance as G thus giving motion to the feed rollers H.
S is a travelling carriage or frame which moves on rollers or wheels s¹, s¹,
on rails.
J is a clip nut by which the frame S is thrown into gear with the long screw L,
and K strap guides fixed on the travelling frame or carriage S for conducting or
traversing the strap D across the cones C and C¹.
M is a worm wheel on the screw L and N the worm driving M and N1 a worm
on cylinder shaft driving traverse motion and the shaft connecting N and N¹.
P, represents the front or drafting rollers, and Q the spindles and bobbin and R
the roving bobbin.
In ordinary spinning frames the drafting of the roving is done by the rollers P
driving the feed rollers H so that the delivery from the rollers H to P bear a

page_text: constant and unvarying relationship to each other and in consequence any length
of yarn produced is the same thickness all along its entire length.
Now according to my invention as hereinbefore set forth my back or feed
rollers H are driven quite independently of the drafting rollers P that is to say
I place between the driving medium or drum A two variable cones C and C¹. The
first or driving cone C has motion imparted to it from the drum A or other part
from the pulleys B to the pulley B³ on the shaft which carries the driving cone C
which driving cone is connected to the driven cone C¹ by the driving band D which
is traversed along the variable cones by the fork K which is carried by the travelling
frame or carriage S by the motion of the long screw L which is driven by the
screw or other gearing N N¹ and shaft O. Assuming then the strap D to be as now
shewn upon the drawings. As it is traversed from left to right the increasing
diameter of the cone C causes the strap to travel faster and the cone C is driven
at a higher speed and vice versa as the strap is traversed still further and beyond
the centre of the length of the cone when the relationship between C and C is
reversed or at any rate changed. The effect of this change and variation of speed
of the cone is that the variations are faithfully transferred through the gear G
to the shaft f and to the feed or delivery rollers H so that as the roving r is drawn
from the roving bobbins R faster and the drafting rollers P remain constant in speed
a thicker thread r¹ is produced and when the rollers H deliver the roving slower the
rollers P still remaining constant in speed deliver thread 1 thinner and not only
is this the case but the alterations in thickness are very gradual and extend over a
considerable length of the thread so that the hose or garment when made show a
very gradual change in thickness which is a most important feature in my inven-
tion. Of course the variation in the sizes or diameters of the variable cone C¹ is
in exact inverse ratio to the driving cone C. The shape and length
of the variable comes C and C may be 80 varied as will be well
understood as to give almost any desired result in the thickness and
gradual changes in the thickness of the thread. It will also be evident that the speed
of the travelling frame or carriage S may be greatly varied which will determine
the total length of yarn or thread delivered to the bobbin Q. The speed of varia-
tion as I have before remarked not sudden or intermittent but very gradual.
When the travelling frame or carriage S has traversed the band D by means
of the guides K to the end of or the required distance upon the cones C and C¹ the
clip J is opened from its contact with the screw L and the motion of the carriage S
is stopped. The carriage S is then carried back to the commencement of its travel
as shewn upon the drawing to commence a new length of yarn and this may be done
by hand or automatically.
Any other devices may be used to give the required variable speed to the feed
rollers H such for instance as differential gear, or expanding and contracting
swifts instead of the variable cones C and C¹ to give the graduated motion.
When I vary the twist as well as the drafting or substances of the yarn as would
sometimes be required, I introduce a second pair of variable cones as before men-
tioned and as shewn by Figures 3 and 4. The variable driving cone T is mounted
upon the driving shaft A or some secondary shaft driving from A. Motion is
imparted to cone T mounted on the shaft by the band W which is traversed
laterally in a similar manner to that already explained in regard to Figure 1. On
the shaft are pulleys V connected by the belt Y to pulley X mounted upon its
shaft which also carries a pinion gearing into the spur wheel p² which is
carried by the delivery roller shaft P and this shaft has therefore a variable motion,
corresponding with the variable cones T and T. Where these twist variable
cones T and T are used I of course alter the driving arrangement of the cone C by
disconnecting the strap B¹ the cones T¹ and C being on the same shaft c².
I do not confine my invention to the manufacture of hose or any other particular
garment as the lengths of yarn varying in thickness in different parts may be
so made with its long and gradual tapers as to suit any purpose where one or more
variations in thickness or substance or hardness and softness is desired.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:
:-
CLAIMS.
First The improvements in the manufacture of hose whether knitted or woven
and other like fabrics, and in the yarn used in the said manufacture and in the
machinery for producing such yarns so as to produce a variable thickness in the
yarn or hose substantially, as herein set forth.
Second: In improvements in spinning frames or machinery for the manufac-
ture of yarns the means for gradually increasing and diminishing the speed of
the drafting or feed rollers or both by which the yarn is spun so as to gradually
increase or decrease the thickness of the yarn at various portions of the same length
substantially as herein set forth.
Third: Yarns for the production or manufacture of hose which vary in thick-
ness in different parts of the same length substantially as herein set forth.
Fourth-The manufacture of hose or similar garments or portions of the same
which gradually vary in thickness from one portion of the same hose or garment
to another substantially as herein set forth.
:
Fifth The improvements in machinery for the manufacture of graduated yarns
substantially as herein set forth and as illustrated on the accompanying sheets of
drawings.
TY
1
01
ISAAC BRIGGS, JUNIOR.
By George Barker,
Fellow of the Chartered Institute of Patent Agents,
Agent for Applicant, 77, Colmore Row, Birmingham.