IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Antoine Bonnaz, of Paris (5, Rue Mazagran), in the
Republic of France, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING
MACHINES."
Sealed the 16th May 1879, and dated the 3rd January 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Antoine Bonnaz at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 3rd January 1879.
ANTOINE BONNAZ, of Paris (5, Rue Mazagran), in the Republic of France.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES."
This Invention relates to improvements on the embroidery machines described
in the Specification of a Patent granted to William Clark on my behalf, dated
17th October 1863, No. 2544.
The Invention has reference mainly to two points, viz., first, the use of two
hooked needles set abreast of each other for producing parallel lines of em-
broidery; and, secondly, to an arrangement of mechanism for producing auto-
matically ornamental designs.
In carrying out the first head of the Invention I mount the two booked needles
in the same needle bar at any desired distance apart, and the whirl which lays
thread into the needle hooks I so construct that it will lay a thread into both
hooks at one and the same operation.
For this purpose the whirl, which consists of a vertical tube open at both ends,
fits loosely on a stationary follow spindle, through which the threads are led up
from a peculiar construction of bobbin carrier. On the lower part of this whirl a
worm is cut, into which gears a quick screw for driving the same, as well as for
adjusting the while axially. The rotation of the whirl in opposite directions is
effected, as heretofore, by giving an endway reciprocating motion to the quick
вегет. At its upper end the whirl is fitted with a pair of hooks, which receive
the threads and serve to lay them into the hooks of their respective needles.
The needles work through nipples, the object of which is to ensure the needles
retaining their respective threads during the up and down motions of the needles.
The pressing and feeding foot, which by preference takes an annular form, is
mounted so as to admit of its being turned so as to work in any desired direction.
This involves the necessity, as is well understood, of moving the needle bar and
the whirl, and in this case also the bobbin carrier and the throat plate, to corre
spond with the change in direction of the feed,

page_text: I employ in this machine two bobbins, which are mounted vertically on a turn
plate, and receive equal pressure from one and the same pressure spring. This
turn plate receives its motion through a belt and pullies actuated by gearing
from a winch handle, the motion of the gearing being transmitted to the pullies
through a coiled spring. This winch handle is the one ordinarily employed for
changing the direction of the feed, and it not only moves the plate carrying the
bobbins, but also turns axially the driving screw of the whirl, and imparts the
requisite axial motion to the throat plate.
I will now describe some improvements in the detail of the mechanism above
referred to. The reciprocating motion of the quick screw for driving the whirl I
obtain from a rock shaft, which I connect by a forked arm with the spindle of the
screw.
This rock shaft will receive its motion through a connecting rod from the main
driving shaft.
As an improvement in the annular feeding foot I rebate the under side of the
ring, and fit the rebate with a pad or cushion of india rubber, leather, or other
elastic material.
The needles I secure in their holder so as to permit of their facile adjustment
vertically to suit different lengths of stitches. In the holder I drill vertical
sockets to receive the stems of the needles, and through the axes of these sockets
I slit the holder, carrying the slit some distance beyond the sockets to form a clip
spring. The inner ends of the sockets I tap to receive the screwed stems of the
Deedles, and when the needles are adjusted in their sockets I secure them firmly
in place by screws, which will bind the severed portions of the holder together.
The vertical adjustment of the needles necessitates a corresponding adjustment of
the nipples before mentioned. This I effect by fitting to the slide which carries
the nipples a horizontal screw, which carries a stud that is traversed by the turn-
ing of the screw. This stud bears upon the horizontal arm of a bell crank lever,
which is rocked by the rotation of a cam on the cam shaft of the machine, and
thereby raises and lowers the nipples as the needles rise and fall. By turning this
traversing screw its stud is caused to approach or recede from the fulcrum of the
bell crank lever, and thus the effective motion of that lever in raising and lower-
ing the nipples is increased or diminished.
For regulating the action of the cam upon the presser bar to suit varying
thicknesses of work a somewhat similar contrivance is provided, an adjustable
atud being fitted to the bell crank lever which actuates the presser bar.
To enable the mechanism lying below the table to be readily inspected I fit
the table to the stand by a hinged joint, and the axle of this joint I elongate to
form the stud axle for the driving pulley.
From this pulley (which is loose on the stud axle) I lead a band to a driving
pulley keyed on the main driving shaft, and I am thus enabled to tip up the
inachine without first unshipping the driving band. The pulley on the driving
abaft instead of being keyed thereto may run loose thereon, and bear against a
dish shaped or other friction spring made fast to the driving shaft.
To prevent the folds of the work from obscuring the operation of the machine
from the eyes of the attendant the head of the machine is fitted with a ring,
which will surround the sowing instruments, and standing free of the work will
keep back the folds, and keep a clear space around the needles, so as to present
the embroidery to view. This ring may be raised and lowered or removed from
the machine as desired.
In carrying out the second head of the Invention I apply to the ordinary
machine, which feeds the work under the guidance of the operator through a winch
handle, the following arrangement of parts or their equivalent:--A rotating cam
is provided for controlling automatically the direction of movement of the feed-
ing foot in order to produce a pattern the nature of which is determined by the
cut of the cam. This change of direction of the feed foot is supplemented by the
action of the winch handle when it is desired that the embroidery, of whatever

page_text: pattern, shall follow any other than a continuous course.
The shaft to which the
winch handle is fitted I prolong upwards that it may reach the bracket arm of the
machine, and I place two tubes concentrically around this shaft. The outer tube
is connected by a feather or its equivalent to the shaft, and a quick thread is cut
on its interior to lap into a similar thread cut on the inner tube. This inner tube
is mounted in a fixed bearing, and carries a spur wheel which gears with another
spur wheel on the vertical shaft of the universal feed which is in all my machines.
Mounted on the same shaft in the bracket arm of the machine is a cam which,
actuates a pawl in geer with a ratchet wheel on a stud axle, thereby causing the
ratchet wheel to move one tooth for each stitch performed. Attached to this
ratchet wheel is a snail or other cam, which through a rock lever pivotted on the
bracket arm and bearing upon the upper end of the outer tubo surrounding the
shaft of the winch handle depresses it as the radius of the cam increases, and
allows it to rise under the upward pressure of a coiled spring as the radius of the
cam decreases. This rising and falling of the outer tube gives to the inner tube
by the interlocking screw threads an axial motion in opposite directions, which
motion is transmitted by gears to the universal feed. Thus by the continued
action of the machine a design is produced automatically, of which the form may
be varied by changing the cut of the snail cam.
For obtaining designs following a curved line the handle must be turned whilo
the embroidery is proceeding. To convert the machine temporarily into an
ordinary "Bonnaz machine it is only necessary to throw the pawle of the
ratchet out of action.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Antoine Bonnaz in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 2nd July
1879.
ANTOINE BONNAZ, of Paris (5, Rue Mazagran), in the Republic of France.
'IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES."
This Invention relates to improvements on the embroidery machine described
in the Specification of a Patent granted to William Clark on my behalf, dated
October Seventeenth, One thousand eight hundred and sixty three, No. 2544.
The Invention has reference mainly to two points, viz., the use of two hooked
needles set abreast of each other for producing parallel lines of embroidery; and,
secondly, to an arrangement of mechanism for producing automatically orna-
mental designs.
In carrying out the first head of the Invention I mount the two hooked needles
in the same needle bar at any desired distance apart, and the whirl which lays
thread into the needle hooks I so construct that it will lay a thread into both hooks
at one and the same operation. For this purpose the whirl, which consists of a
vertical tube open at both ends, fits loosely on a stationary hollow spindle, through
which the threads are led up from a peculiar construction of bobbin carrier. On
the lower part of this whirl a worm is cut, into which gears a quick screw for
driving the same, as well as for adjusting the whirl axially. The rotation of the
whirl in opposite directions is effected as heretofore by giving an endway recipro-
cating motion to the quick screw. At its upper end the whirl is fitted with a pair
of hooks, which receives the threads and serves to lay them into the hooks of their
respective needles. The needles work through nipples, the object of which is to
ensure the needles retaining their respective threads during the up and down
motions of tho needles. The pressing and feeding foot, which by preference takes
an annular form, is mounted so as to admit of its being turned so as to work in
any desired direction. This involves the necessity, as is well understood, of
moving the needle bar and the whirl, and in this case also the bobbin carrier and
the throat plate, to correspond with the change in direction of the feed.
I omploy in this machine two bobbins, which are mounted vertically on a turn
plate, and receive equal pressure from one and the same presser spring; this turn
plate receives its motion through a belt and pulleys actuated by gearing from a
winch handle, the motion of the gearing being transmitted to the pulleys through
a coiled spring; this winch handle is the one ordinarily employed for changing
the direction of the feed, and it not only moves the plate carrying the bobbins,
but also turna axially the driving screw of the whirl and imparts the requisite
axial motion to the throat plate.
I will now describe some improvements in the details of the mechanism above
referred to.
The reciprocating motion of the quick screw for driving the whirl I obtain from
a rock shaft, which I connect by a forked arm with the spindle of the screw.
This rock shaft will receive its motion through a connecting rod from the main
driving shaft.
As an improvement in the annular feeding foot I rebate the underside of the
ring, and fit the rebate with a pad or cushion of india rubber, leather, or other
elastic material.
The needles I secure in their holder so as to permit of their facile adjustment
vertically to suit different lengths of stitches. In the holder I drill vertical
sockets to receive the stems of the needles, and through the axes of these sockets
I slit the holder, carrying the slit some distance beyond the sockets to form a
clip spring. The inner ends of the sockets I tap to receive the screwed stems of
the needlea, and when the needles are adjusted in their sockets I secure them
firmly in place by screws, which will bind the severed portions of the holder to-

page_text: gether. The vertical adjustment of the needles necessitates a corresponding
adjustment of the nipples before mentioned; this I effect by fitting to the slide
which carries the nipples a horizontal screw, which carries a stud that is traversed
by the turning of the screw; this stud bears upon the horizontal arm of a bell
crank lever, which is rocked by the rotation of a cam on the cam shaft of tho
machine, and thereby raises the nipples as the needles rise and fall. By turning
this traversing screw its stud is caused to approach or recede from the fulcrum
of the bell crank lever, and thus the effective motion of that lever in raising and
lowering the nipples is increased or diminished.
For regulating the action of the cam upon the presser bar to suit varying
thicknesses of work a somewhat similar contrivance is provided, an adjustable
stud being fitted to the bell crank lever, which actuates the presser bar.
To enable the mechanism lying below the table to be readily inspected, I fit
the table to the stand by a hinged joint, and the axle of this joint I elongate to
form the stud axle for the driving pulloy. From this pulley, which is loose on
the atud axle, I lead a band to a driving pulley keyed on the main driving shaft,
and I am thus enabled to tip up the machine without first unshipping the driving
band. The pulley on the driving shaft instead of being keyed thereto may run
loose thereon, and bear against a dish shaped or other friction spring made fast to
the driving shaft. To prevent the folds of the work from obscuring the operation
of the machine from the eyes of the attendant, the head of the machine is fitted
with a ring which will surround the sewing instruments, and standing free, of
the work will keep back the folds and keep a clear space around the needles, so
as to present the embroidery to view. This ring may be raised and lowered or
removed from the machine as desired.
In carrying out the second head of the Invention I apply to the ordinary
machine which feeds the work under the guidance of the operator through a
winch handle the following arrangement of parts, or their equivalent:-A rotat-
ing cam is provided for controlling automatically the direction of movement of
the feeding foot in order to produce a pattern the nature of which is determined
by the cut of the cam. This change of direction of the feed foot is supplemented
by the action of the winch handle when it is desired that the embroidery of what-
over pattern shall follow any other than continuous course. The shaft to which
the winch handle is fitted I prolong upwards that it may reach the bracket arm
of the machine and I place two tubes concentrically around this shaft. The
outer tube is connected by a feather or its equivalent to the shaft, and a quick
thread is cut on its interior to take into a similar thread cut on the inner tube.
This inner tube is mounted in a fixed bearing and carries a spur wheel which
gears with another spur wheel on the vertical shaft of the universal feed, which
is in all my machines. Mounted on the shaft in the bracket arm of the machine
is a cam which actuates a pawl in gear with a ratchet wheel on a stud axle, there-
by causing the ratchet wheel to move one tooth for each stitch performed. At-
tached to this ratchet wheel is a snail or other cam which through a rock lever
pivotted on the bracket arm and bearing upon the upper end of the outer tube
surrounding the shaft of the winch handle presses it as the radius of the cam
increases, and allows it to rise under the upward pressure of a coiled spring as
the radius of the cam decreases. The rising and falling of the outer tube gives
to the inner tube by the interlocking screw threads an axial motion in opposite
directions, which motion is transmitted by gears to the universal feed. Thus by
the continued action of the machine a design is produced automatically, of which
the form may be varied by changing the cut of the cam. For obtaining designs
following the curved line the handle must be turned while the embroidery is
proceeding. To convert the machine temporarily into a ordinary Bonnaz"
machine it is only necessary to throw the pawl of the ratchet out of action.
Having explained the kind of machine to which my Invention refers and set
forth the nature of the various improvements which I have made therein, I will
proceed to describe more minutely the contrivances which constitute my Inven-
tion, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings.

page_text: In Sheet I. Fig. 1 is an underside view of the machine; Fig. 2 is a vertical cross
section taken in the line of the axis of the whirl; Figures 3 and 4 shew the ar-
rangement for varying the extent of motion of the nipples; Fig. 4 shews an
arrangement of mechanism for varying the extent of motion of the feed foot;
Figures 5 and 6 shew the covering plate for retaining the throat plate in plan
and section; Figures 7 and 8 ahew the throat plate in plan and section; Fig. 8
is an enlargement of the parts represented at Figures 5, 6, 7, and 8; Fig. 9 shews
in section the quick screw for driving the whirl and the spindle which carries it;
Figures 10, 11, and 12 shew in section, elevation, and plan the cushion of india
rubber adapted to the presser foot; Figures 14, 14, and 15, shew the whirl on
an enlarged scale in their positions with respect to the hooked needles, and
Figures 16 and 17 shew the manner of attaching the hooks and needles to the
ncedlo bar.
In all these Figures the same letters of reference apply to like parts.
In my type of machine of 1868 as at present constructed I obtain the command
of the whirl and its change of position in respect to the direction of feed by a
worm keyed on its shaft acting upon another worm keyed upon a perpendicular
axis, the one acting the part of a simple pinion and the other that of both a rack
and pinion as circumstances required. Several inconveniences result from this
construction. The whirl is commanded by a rod of the length of the machine
having a reciprocating motion of forty millimetres, and as the machine is driven
at one thousand two hundred stitches a minute the wear of the rod in its bearing
is liable to cause the reciprocating quick screw and the worm on the whirl to get
out of gear and change their relative positions to each other and thus occasion
the breakage of some parts of the machine.
As will be seen in Figures 1 and 2, the reciprocating rod of the former machine
is replaced by the rock shaft f, mounted longitudinally of the machine turning
upon the dead centres and carried on lugs on the under side of the table.
This rock shaft carries a forked lever f', the prongs of which embrace a grooved
collar forming part of the quick screw C. The quick screw is mounted loosely
on a transverse shaft B carried in bearings on the underside of the machine, and
is capable of being moved endwise by the axial motion of the rock shaft f. The
shaft B is squared to fit the squared centre of the quick screw (see Fig. 9) in
order to transmit an axial motion to the quick screw, and for the purpose after-
wards described.
By this arrangement the weight of the parts reciprocated is lessened, and the
quick screw and its shaft being transverse of the machine, the length of the
machine may be greatly increased without inconvenience, so as to allow stuffs
of great width being embroidered.
The whirl has hitherto been mounted in a bearing equal in diameter to its
worm, the interlocking of the gear being consequently at a less diameter. Hither-
to, the fluff produced during the working of the machine absorbed the oil in the
bearing parts, and the oiling being neglected for fear of soiling the work, rapid
wear and great resistance to the motion of the parts resulted.
I now remove this difficulty by mounting the whirl so as to turn freely upon a
central hollow spindle i fixed vertically in a support L, as seen in the sectional
view Fig. 2. This spindle allows the fluff to fall through and prevents it being
introduced into the bearings, the lubrication can also be effected through a hole
pierced near the upper part of the spindle without danger of soiling the work.
small cup is formed on the lower bearing to receive the excess of oil.
A
In the old machines the main shaft is divided into two parts, the one part
turning constantly is coupled to the other by the instantaneous action of a spring.
The stationary part of the mechanism is thus started abruptly at its full speed,
and shocks to the mechanism are the result which occasion injurious vibration.
To remove this inconvenience I mount the pulley L³, Fig. 1, loosely on the
axle Z, and drive it by frictional contact of a spring m secured to the axle 1. The
pressure upon the pulley may be regulated by the screw m¹, which holds it with
greater or less force against the spring. By this arrangement, if the effort to

page_text: overcome the inertia of the moving parts is too great, the loose pulley will turn
on the axle, and the axle will be driven afterwards by the friction of the spring.
The same effect will be produced if for want of oil, or derangement of any of the
parte, the machine offers an unaccustomed resistance.
As the length of the stitches and the thickness of the stuff is increased, the
needles should have a greater upward motion to draw the necessary amount of
thread. The motion of the nipples must also be regulated in like manner: This
result may be obtained by raising the needle a little in its holder, it being ordin-
arily attached so as to descend lower than is necessary; but I prefer to obtain
this result by means of the arrangement of parts shewn at Figures 3 and 4,
where N is the head of the machine; n, the nipple fixed to the nipple carrier ³,
which is mounted ao as to slide in a groove in the front of the head N.
nis a slide which can move in a groove upon the back of the head; and to it
is attached the nipple n. The motion of the slide is governed by a cam on the
main shaft through the bell crank lever n³, and the horizontal arm of the lever in
place of acting directly on the slide n acts on a stud n carried by a horizontal
screw which is mounted in a forked bracket o' of the slide n. This stud n' can
be moved nearer to or further from the axis of oscillation of of the lever n³ by the
turning the screw o. It will be understood that the nearer the stud is to the
axis oor the further from it, the greater or less will be the upward motion of
the nipple.
I apply a nearly similar arrangement to regulate the motion of the feed foot,
see the sectional view Fig. 4". The cam mounted on the main shaft in the
nead N of the machine cscillates a determined distance the bowle of a lever u;
one arm of the bell crank lever receives this motion through a stud z made
adjustable on the arm r, the other opposite arm of the lever v bears on a lug pro-
jecting from the feed foot slide P.
Figures 10, 11, and 12 shew the improved presser and feed foot. A ring of
india rubber or other clastic substance p is inserted in a circular groove formed
on the underside of the foot 50 as to project therefrom, the india rubber being
nearly enclosed, a fcot having a regular bite on the fabric and capable of great
wear is obtained.
To enable the machine to be turned up for an inspection of the mechanism on
the underside of the table, I mount the table on pivot bearings Q, R, and in a
line with the spindle which carries the pulley for transmitting motion from the
treadle to the pulley L on the main driving axle; or this spindle may be ex-
tended so as to form the pivot of the table. By this means the machine may bo
turned up for inspection without the necessity of removing the driving band.
For attaching the needles to the end of the needle bar, the means represented
at Figures 16 and 17 are adopted. This allows of the attendant adjusting the
height of the needles without the aid of a special tool. Threaded holes are made
in the end of needle bar V, and the stem of the needles being also threaded their
height can be easily adjusted by turning them in either direction. The end of
the bar being split into the two parts and 3, the threaded sockets may be
caused to bind upon the needle stems by turning the screw with a screw
uriver.
For keeping back the folds of the fabric from the needles during the operation
of embroidering I employ, as already stated, a ring; this ring, which has a
diameter of about five centimetres, surrounds the needles and rests lightly upon
the fabric, thereby preventing the formation of folds and enabling the attendant
to follow the design traced on the fabric. I propose to mount it on the head of
the machine in a manner that will admit of its height being regulated when
necessary.
My improved machine, as before stated, is intended to produce two lines of
I
parallel embroidery stitches with threads of the same or different colors.
obtain this result by means of two needles preserving the universal motion of
the parts peculiar to the mechanism used in embroidering with one thread.
I

page_text: also give to the throat plate, through which the needles traverse, and to the
whirl and the bobbin carriers, a corresponding motion by means of gearing oper-
ated from the winch handle, which has hitherto operated the universal feed,
needle-bar, and whirl.
The whirl is now made double to operate two threads simultaneously; its
action on the threads is such that each thread can only loop its respective needle.
The whirl is provided with two hooks (see Figures 14, 14, and 15) formed on
he upper edge thereof and facing each other. Around these hooks are passed
the two threads g, g', which are led up through the hollow spindle i from the
bobbins S and T. From these hooks the threads pass to and through holes d, d',
of the throat plate, see Figures 7, 8, and 8°, so as to cross the line of motion of
the vertical hooks or needles as the whirl is driven round.
At Fig. 14 the respective positions of the threads and needles are shewn at the
moment when these latter are at the highest part of their stroke, that is, before
they have passed through the throat plate C³.
Fig. 15 shews the respective positions of the threads and the needles when these
latter have descended through the needle plate C3; and Fig. 14 in an inter-
mediate position of the parts.
It will be seen that as the whirl moves in the direction of the arrow g of
Fig. 14, the hooka of the whirl and their threads will pass from the starting
position of Fig. 14 and through the intermediate position of Fig. 14 to the
position of Fig. 15, which they will reach at the end of the rotation of the whirl,
thus the threads will be laid in such a position with respect to the needles that
on the ascent of the needles the hooks will take up their respective threads. The
whirl receives its motion, by which it presents its thread to the needles, by
means of the quick screw C acting as a rack upon the ring of teeth C.
The rotary movement of the whirl in the same direction as the needles, which
rotary motion corresponds with the direction given to the other parts of the
mechanism by the universal gearing is obtained from the winch handle A through
the pinions a, a, a, b, and the transverse shaft B rotating the quick screw c
which is in gear with the ring of teeth C¹ of the whirl.
The square part b₁ of the spindle B, which serves to prevent the quick screw C
from turning while it is acting as a rack, serves also to rotate it when it is re-
quired to shift the axial position of the whirl simultaneously with the other part
of the embroidery mechanism following the movement of the winch handle Á.
Figures 7, 8, and 8 shew the throat plate as provided with two holes d, d',
through which the two needles pass. As this plate must follow the axial adjust-
ment of the needle bar I mount and operate it in the following manner: -It is
fitted like a cap upon a tubular pinion which surrounds the tubular support m²,
forming the upper bearing of the whirl; two pins projecting from the upper edge
of the tube denter holes e¹, c", in the throat plate, and to prevent the throat
plate from being jerked off the pins a covering plate M is provided, which is
attached to the table by the screw MB (Figures 5 and 6); this plate admits of
being shifted to bring a larger or smaller hole over the whirl to suit the changes
of throat plate required for the different kinds of work.
The pinion, for maintaining the position of the throat plate relatively to
that of the needles, receives its axial motion through the intermediate spur and
bevil gears, d, d³, shaft do, and spur wheels d' and dª.
The machine, when adapted for embroidering with two threads, requires two
bobbins, and in order not to twist the threads when the needles and other parts
are rotated, and whereby the looping of the threads would be disturbed I mount
the bobbins upon a frame which carries a pulley that is rotated simultaneously
with the needles and whirl, and is in like manner governed by the winch handle A.
In transmitting rotary motion to the bobbin carrier it is requisite that while
quick changes of direction of motion are effected the inertia shall be gradually
overcome. If a rigid mode of transmitting rotary motion were adopted the free

page_text: and rapid movements of the handle A would be checked by quick changes of
direction in overcoming the inertia of the bobbins and carrier.
The employment of a band which would allow of a slip at the pulley of the
bobbin carrier would change the respective positions of the bobbins, and the
needles increase the torsion of the threads and obstruct the movement of the
whirl. To obviate these inconveniences I employ a spiral spring, india rubber
band, or other elastic medium that will absorb the force until the inertia is
overcome and allow the bobbin carrior to resume later its proper relative position.
In the sectional view, Fig. 2, an arrangement is shewn for transmitting the
rotary motion to the bobbin carrier by means of a spring coiled round the vertical
shaft h. One end of this spring is attached to a pulley h, mounted loosely on
the lower end of the vertical shaft h, which receives motion through the bevil
wheel keyed to the upper end of the shaft h; this bevil wheel is geared with
a bevil wheel h³ on the transverse shaft B. The other end of the spiral spring h
is attached to the bevil wheel h¹, therefore the pulley h can only be driven by
the spring 5, which will give the necessary elastic transmission of motion. The
spring his enclosed in a tube ho of sufficient diameter to allow of the play of the
spring while it limits the amount of its distortion. The same result may be
obtained by coupling the pulleys h³, h, by means of an india rubber band.
The bobbin carrier or frame g is fitted with two pins to receive the bobbins S,
T, the threads from which pass through guides t, and thence up to and through
the hollow spindle i, on which the whirl is mounted.
To obtain an uniform tension as the thread on the bobbins decreases in diameter
I employ two hinged brakes or pallets p, p, see Figures 2 and 13, mounted
loosely one above the other on a pin p', carried by the frame. The parts of the
sockets or hinge of these pallets which are in contact are cut so as to form inclined
planes spiral spring placed around the pin p' presses the upper socket
upon the lower, and the inclines force the free ends of the pallets towards the
bobbins; the pressure of the spring upon the upper socket is regulated by the
screw nut p³.
The second head of this Invention is illustrated in Sheet II. of the Drawings,
wherein Fig. 1 is a longitudinal section of the hinder part of an embroidery
machine adapted for producing automatically ornamental designs; and Fig. 2
is a cross section of the aame.
A is a vertical shaft supported in a bracket bearing a on the underside of the
table, supported at its upper end by a bracket a' on the bracket arm of tho
machine. The lower end of the shaft is extended through a bearing a to receive
a winch handle B for rotating it. Surrounding this shaft is a tube C, the upper
end of which is provided with a groove to receive a feather or key c attached to
the shaft. This connection, while obliging the tube to turn with the shaft A,
allows of the tube sliding vertically. The lower end of this tube is provided
with a female screw which works upon a male thread formed on the periphery of
an inner tube D; this tube D) at its lower end passes down through the table,
which forms a bearing for the same, and at its lower end the tube carries a spur
wheel d, which gears with another wheel c on the bottom of a vertical shaft E.
This shaft has at its extreme ends bevil wheels e and for transmitting the
motion derived from the handle B to the whirl and to the system of universal feed.
Upon the horizontal main shaft F, carried by the bracket arm, is keyed a face
cam, against which bears a bowl carried by a lever H, which lever is pivotted on
a horizontal shaft F mounted in the bracket arm, see Fig. 2. This lever carries
a pawle f for acting upon a ratchet wheel, G' keyed on the shaft. K. Made fast
to the shaft K is also a snail cam K', which beara on a finger projecting up from
a lever L pivotted at / to the bracket arm. The opposite end of this lever L bears
upon the upper end of the tubo C, and gives it a vertical motion downwards.
When the cam has released the lever L the tube C will be forced upwards by a
apiral spring & which surrounds the lower end and bears against a flange formed
on the tube C. This cam K' will cause the machine to embroider in a curve or
circle, and when replaced by the heart shaped cam shown at Fig. 3 the machine

page_text: will embroider the compound curve shown at Fig. 4. I also propose to employ
other forms of cams to give variety to the work. In every case the pattern will
be composed of repeats of one and the same figure, constituting a continuous
line or lines of chain stitches.
I may remark that the ratchet wheel G' should have a number of teeth corre-
sponding to the number of stitches necessary to form the curved or other figure
by repeats of which the pattern ia formed. A ratchet wheel of twenty four teeth
will serve for a figure having twenty four stitches; but if the figure is required
to be executed on a large scale it will be necessary to have a ratchet wheel of
thirty, forty, or fifty teeth, or if the figure is to be executed on a reduced scalo
the ratchet wheel used must have a less number of teeth than twenty-four, accord-
ing to the requirements of the design.
When the machine is operated the cam K' or its lever L being at the time fixed
or stationary the following results may be obtained, viz.:-
1. A straight line of ordinary chain stitches, the handle B being thrown out
of use.
2. A chain stitch following any desired pattern, the handle B being then in
When the cam is acting,-
usc.
1. An indented or zig zag line of stitches may be produced.
2. If the handle is operated this indented or zig zag line of stitches will follow
the course of the pattern intended to be produced.
Having now set forth the nature of my Invention of "Improvements in Em-
broidering Machines," and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect,
I wish it to be understood that under the above in part recitod Lotters Patent I
claim under the first head of this Invention,-
First. Imparting a traverse motion to the quick screw c through the agency of
a rock shaft in lieu of a reciprocating rod for the purpose above set forth.
Second. The frictional driving coupling for transmitting motion to the machine,
as described with reference to Fig. 1, Sheet I. of the Drawings.
Third. The arrangement above described for varying the rising and falling
motions of the nipple.
Fourth. The arrangement above described for varying the rising motion of
the feed foot.
Fifth. Furnishing the feed foot with an elastic cushion in the manner above
described.
Sixth. Mounting an intermediate band pulley on or in a line with the axis on
which the machine is turned over for inspection for the purpose above set forth.
Seventh. The mode above described of mounting the needles adjustably in the
needle bar.
Eighth. The combination of two needles or hooks with a double whirl, and the
means above set forth for maintaining the position of the whirl relatively to the
bar which carries such needles.
Ninth. Mounting a whirl on a hollow spindle, as described, whereby the
friction of the same is diminished, and the lubrication is facilitated, and this I
claim whether the whirl be single or double.
Tenth. Connecting the bobbin carrier with the whirl by means of a coiled
spring, an elastic band, or its equivalent, whereby the change of motion of the
bobbins consequent on the rapid reversal of direction of the feed is transmitted
thereto gradually for the purpose above set forth.
Eleventh. The arrangement of brake above described for putting such a pres-
sure on the bobbins as will ensure an uniform tension of the threads.
Twelfth. The application to the embroidery machine of an adjustable ring, as
described, for keeping back or preventing the formation of folds in that part of
the fabric which is under the operation of the machine.
Under the second head of the Invention I claim,―
The combination in an embroidery machine of two movements (acting simul-
taneously, the ono automatic, and the other actuated by hand) for producing

page_text: upon fabrics consecutive repeats of a curved or other figure in any desired direc-
tion for the formation of a device or pattern, such figures or repeats varying
according to the form of controlling cam employed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Antoine Bonnaz, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, the Twenty eighth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy nine.
RONNA7