IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1880

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Frederick Cutlan at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 11th August 1880.
FREDERICK CUTLAN, of Cardiff, in the County of Glamorgan, Architect.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
The object of my Invention consists in applying to any suitable sewing machine
attachments whereby I am enabled in the case of boot manufacture to welt, and
also stitch sole to welt, the arrangements being applicable however to purposes
other than boot stitching.
In carrying out my Invention as applied to boot manufacture I adopt mainly
the following arrangement:-
For welting I apply to the feed a carrier, which I term the welt carrier.
This carrier is so formed that the welt is held in position, so that when the
stitch is completed it is allowed to pass on.
For stitching the sole to the welt the front portion of the feed is removed and a
face or guard plate attached, on which rests a portion which I term the table, same
being suitably secured to the machine.
Above this table is the feed action which travels in the groove prepared to receive
the stitch, said feed action being driven preferably from the main feed shaft by
toothed wheels or other suitable contrivance. The welt and sole to be stitched
travel on the table immediately under the feed action.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Frederick Cutlan in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 11th
February 1881.
FREDERICK CUTLAN, of Cardiff, in the County of Glamorgan, Architect.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
The object of my Invention consists in applying to a sewing machine attachments
whereby I am enabled in the case of boot manufacture to welt, and also stitch
sole to welt, the arrangements being applicable however to purposes other than
boot stitching.
In carrying out my Invention I adopt the following arrangements :-
For welting I apply to the feed a carrier, which I term the welt carrier. This
carrier is so formed that the welt is held in position, so that when the stitch is
completed it is allowed to pass on.
.
For fair stitching the front portion of the feed is removed and a face or guard
plate attached, on which rests a portion which I term the table, same being suitably
secured to the machine. Above this table is the feed action which travels in
the groove prepared to receive the stitch, said feed action being driven preferably
from the main shaft by toothed wheels or other suitable contrivance.
The welt and sole to be stitched travel on the table immediately under the feed.
action.
Fig. 1, side elevation of machine showing same as when used for fair stitching.
Fig. 2, front elevation of fair stitching attachment.
Fig. 3, plan.
Fig. 4, elevation of attachment to be secured in place of table H
(Fig 1) for sewing welt to boot or shoe.
The action is as follows:-
The machine is either driven by treadle or band over pulley A fixed on main
shaft B, motion being conveyed by the toothed wheel C to the intermediate toothed
wheel D, which again gears into the toothed wheel fixed on shaft E, imparting
to said shaft motion in same direction as main shaft B, on which is fitted cam
wheel F, which, by means of connecting rod G provided with ratchet pawl H
working on ratchet wheel I, turns the shaft J a few degrees as the main shaft B
revolves in the feeding direction, thus giving the feed motion required. O, support-
carrying looper P, which is caused to revolve round the needle by means of the
double slotted cam Qattached to shaft E, and thus the thread passing through the
looper P is brought round the needle R, and the needle on rising draws or catches
the thread on its barb and pulls it through the leather, thus forming the stitch.
S is cam fixed on main shaft B; T, needle bar, which receives its vertical recipro-
cating motion from cam S; U, toothed sector provided with friction roller working
in groove on cam S, said sector working into toothed wheel on needle bar T,
causing same to partially revolve, thus releasing a loop at each upward movement
of the needle bar.
To operate-presser foot W a cam K fixed on main shaft B operates vertical
shaft L, lifting grip lever M during the up stroke, thereby fixing presser foot W
during upward stroke of the needle bar; N is spring pressing against lever M
keeping it in position on vertical shaft L; W', handle or arm to operate presser
foot W.
In Figs. 1 to 3, when applied for fair stitching, the feed wheel M' is removed
and table H secured by brackets G¹ to frame of machine. In place of feed M¹
guard plate I¹ is secured to shaft J. Against this guard plate the upper of the
r

page_text: boot rests while being operated on, the welt and sole resting on table H'. On
shaft J toothed wheel E' is fixed, gearing into wheel D' fixed on counter shaft C¹.
The counter shaft is fixed to hinge plate A¹, said hinge plate being secured to
bracket B¹, also fixed to frame of machine. The course of the feed C" on counter
shaft C is regulated by screw appliance C, and by means of feed C² the work is
carried on in its proper course. The attachment, Fig. 4, is applied for welting in
place of H and I, being attached to brackets G' and to the machine. The needle
employed for welting is straight, as also for fair stitching, but in the case of fair
stitching the needle is chisel pointed, as shown, and the needle thus formed for
fair stitching I consider an important feature in my Invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner same is to be performed or put in practice, I hereby
declare that I claim,―
(1.) The arrangements for fair stitching, substantially as shown and described
with reference to Figs. 1, 2, and 3, in combination with the arrangements for
revolving feed, substantially as herein before set forth and described.
(2.) The arrangements for sewing welt to inner sole of boot or shoe, substantially
as hereinbefore described.
(3.) The chisel pointed needle for fair stitching, substantially as hereinbefore
set forth and described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Frederick Cutlan, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Ninth day of February, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty one.
Witness,
T. MORGAN,
Secretary,
Inventors' Patentright Ass"., Limited,
21, Cockspur Street,
S.W.
F. CUTLAN. (L.S.)