IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF FORMING AND MAKING CLOTHING
Year: 1865

page_text: ETTERS PATENT to Gerard Ralston, of 18, Tokenhouse Yard, in the
City of London, in the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF FORMING AND MAKING CLOTHING."-A
communication from abroad by Thomas Scott Lambert, M.D., of
Peekshill, Westchester County, and Theodore Bourne, of New York,
County of New York, both of the State of New York, United States of
America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Gerard Ralston at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 18th
March 1865.
I, GERARD RALSTON, of 18, Tokenhouse Yard, in the City of London, in
the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF MAKING CLOTHING," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its objects the manufacturing of trousers and waist-
coats in combination upon a principle more adapted to the preservation of
health, the convenience comfort, and economy of the wearer, than any which
has hitherto been employed; first, by its yielding to the various positions of
the body, thereby preventing unhealthy pressure upon the internal organs;
secondly, no braces or other fastenings being required the trousers and vest may
be put on and off as easily as the ordinary waistcoat; thirdly, no braces or:

page_text: other tight bandages being required, the comfort to the wearer is self-evident;
fourthly, trousers and waistcoats made upon this principle, either with or
without buttons or button holes, is in either case peculiarly convenient for
railway travelling, riding, driving, yatching, field sports, and fishing, also for
overalls for working men, seamen, and all in or out-door employment when
protection to the ordinary clothing is desirable, and for children's dresses is
invaluable.
The primary object of this Invention consists in constructing a vest or a
front of a vest in combination with pantaloons or overalls in such a manner
that they may be comfortable to the wearer and easily be put on or off as one
garment. The method by which I attain these results is by the use of elastic
bands of convenient size at the waist and neck.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Gerard Ralston in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
18th September 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GERARD
RALSTON, of 18, Tokenhouse Yard, in the City of London, in the County of
Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto him, the
said Gerard Ralston, Her special licence that he, the said Gerard Ralston,
his executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as he, the said Gerard
Ralston, his executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE
OF FORMING AND MAKING CLOTHING," upon the condition (amongst others) that
he, the said Gerard Ralston, bis executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under his, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Gerard Ralston, .do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being made to the accompanying Drawings, and the
letters marked thereon:-
It consists in the manufacturing of trowsers and waistcoats in combination
in such a manner with elastic bands that they are easily put on and comfort-
ably worn, and as easily put off, in part or in whole, as convenience or necessity
may require.
Fig. 1 represents a pair of trousers or overalls fitted with elastic bands and
with buttons and folds corresponding to a waistcoat. E, N, B, represents an
elastic band, which, if the garment fits close to the neck, should be at least
one-half the circumference of the neck, and be capable of stretching to twice
its length, then it will be able to pass over the head. This band may with
propriety be made double or treble in thickness or strength in a part of its
extent, so that a slighter force may extend the single part, while a greater
force shall still find the band elastic. E, W, B, points out the position of the
elastic waistband that extends from S round to the opposite side; at this
place the garment should be sufficiently full and the band sufficiently elastic
to allow it, when extended, to pass over the haunch of the wearer. If an
opening is allowed in the cloth of the garment against the centre of the band
behind, and if the opening extends down a few inches, the same result is
gained, some fullness is saved, and in most cases there is an advantage thus
secured. The elastic may be, as before said, doubled or trebled in a part of
its extent. It need not always extend around as far, or a part of the band
may be elastic and the band extend entirely round. F, E, S, represents an
elastic band passing under the foot to keep down the trousers when riding, or
at any other desirable time.
Fig. 2 represents the front half of the left leg and the left breast front.
Fig 3 represents the left breast front A', C', as A, C, Fig. 2, shows it, as
cut with a spring to fit the like spring A, C, Fig. 4, which represents
the back half of the left leg. It is not necessary to cut these garments with a
spring.
Fig. 5 represents how an opening in front F may be kept closed by two
elastic cords E, C, F, and E, C. If it is more desirable to have the breast
front of this garment appear more like a waistcoat it may be attached to the
lower part by buttons; pockets or flaps may be added; the front may be
made and buttoned as a vest, and a collar of any form may be applied above.
In this case the elastic band need not be as long as before stated, indeed

page_text: may be quite short. If the cloth of the breast front is elastic or yielding or
bias, it should be lined with material of the opposite properties, since, as the
weight of the lower portion is sustained in part by the upper, it will be
drawn out of shape. In case of the vest front being open above, it will by so
much allow the head to pass. If the back of the trousers need any stay more
than is furnished by the elastic waistband, an elastic band can be extended
from the centre of each side of the back of the trousers, part to the waist-
coat or breast front against the arm-pit, which will not interfere with the
putting on or off.
What I claim as my Invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,
the application of an elastic band at the neck of the waistcoat and waistband
of the trousers, as set forth.
The advantages of having garments made in this manner are several fold,
not only are they more easily put on and off and worn with greater comfort,
but they last much longer on account of their elasticity, and what is of still
greater consequence they are advantageous to the health by yielding to the
pressure produced by the various positions of the body upon the internal
organs when its circumference is anywhere girded.
In witness whereof, I, the said Gerard Ralston, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
GERARD KALSION. (5.)