Improvements in or relating to Tailoring, Dress Cutting, and the like.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Oct., 1892-Accepted, 3rd Dec., 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to Tailoring, Dress Cutting, and
the like.
I, RICHARD SMITH ROBINSON of 85, 87 and 89 Mile End Road London E.
Tailor do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same
is to be perforined, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to a new or improved device to be used in connection with
tailoring, dress cutting and the like, and consists in a measuring and marking
instrument intended to supersede the graduated tapes commonly used.
The instrument is in the form of a square of wood or other material, having two
or more sides divided into certain units, such as inches and parts of an inch. A
line is drawn from one corner to the other dividing it into two parts. The divisions
marked on the sides depend upon the length of this diagonal line, for instance,
when this line measures exactly six inches, the divisions are in inches and parts of
an inch, the sides being about four and a quarter long. A number of these squares
are employed in the same manner as the graduated tapes, one for every chest
measurement made, in series of half or whole inches, varying, say from a twenty
two inch chest to a fifty inch. These are marked with distinguishing numbers,
being the half measurement of a chest, the one used for a thirty six inch chest
being marked 18, which is taken to be the standard size, the diagonal of the square
for that measurement being six inches and the unit employed in the divisions
the inch. A thirty inch chest will require a square with a diagonal line five inches
long, and the units five sixths of an inch, the others varying in the same
proportion.
In order that the invention may be more clearly understood, reference is had to
the accompanying drawings in which Fig. 1 is a plan of the instrument, and
Fig. 2 shows the application of it to cutting or pattern making, in the case of a
coat or jacket.
A is the square, preferably with bevelled edges for greater convenience in using,
having the diagonal line B dividing it into two equal parts. The drawings show
in full size the standard square for a thirty six inch waist, the line B being six
inches long and the unit employed an inch. The instrument will be found most
valuable in cutting out the shoulder and neck of a coat or jacket as shown in
Fig. 2, and in corresponding parts of dresses, as these parts are the most difficult
to fit, but it may be used in all branches of pattern making and cutting, and in
various manners according to the taste and experience of the user. In using the
instrument as shown in Fig. 2, it is first laid down in the position a, and the square
drawn round by chalk in the usual manner. It is then laid in a diagonal position,
the divisions allowing this to be done with considerable accuracy, and the square b
drawn around it. The line is made as a continuation of the top of the square a
and the square is laid so that the diagonal lies along this line, the line of the
length of one side being thus obtained. These lines and squares now afford a
guide to draw the line C in the manner shown, which marks off the part to which
the arm is attached, passing under the armpit, the two points C¹ and C¹ being
connected when stitched. The line e is then drawn at right angles to d, and a
horizontal line fat a point about a quarter of an inch from the end of the line e,
the lines each being of the same length as the side of the square. The cutting
line D is drawn from the point el to and E, forming part of the neck by means
of the guiding line 9, which is drawn at an angle of 45% to the line and is of
equal length to the point E. The line F forming the front of the coat is drawn
according to the judgment of the cutter, but may also be drawn by means of the
C

page_text: square and certain known rules. For the remainder of the neck and shoulder the
line G is drawn at an angle of forty five degrees to the horizontal, and is made of
the same length as the line D, a guiding line h drawn by laying the square on the
line c being employed, if desired, for the neck line H, J being the line for the back.
K, L and M are lines used for a morning or close fitting coat, dividing the body
into back, side and front pieces, and are drawn according to the judgment and
measurements of the cutter, and the guides supplied by the points 1, 2, of the
square . N, O, shown in dotted lines, are those used for a jacket in place of
K, L and M, one part slightly overlapping the other, the point a¹ of the square a,
indicating the position at the upper part.
According to the drawing only one square is employed, and this is the case
where the different measurements are of average proportions, a chest of thirty six
inches having, say a waist of thirty one, and other parts corresponding. Where
the person is stout in proportion to height, a square corresponding to the larger
measurement is used for ruling and measuring the lines relating to the width, and
if tall and thin, a larger square is used for the length lines. This will be readily
understood by anyone in the business, and the proper squares will be chosen
corresponding to the different proportions, without difficulty. The proportion
mentioned, of six inches for the diagonal line to a thirty six inch chest, is one well
known to cutters, the graduated tapes being proportioned in the same manner.
These squares will also be of use in connection with an ordinary inch measure, so
that the cutter will have a square at hand of the right number for the garment,
which will give him the proper length of the units to be employed without much
calculation, as the measurement of each part is obtained by known rules. The
instrument is applicable to all descriptions of tailoring, dress and shirt cutting and
the like, being especially useful in those parts requiring good fitting, such as the
shoulders and back, and it also obviates the necessity of employing straight edges
in marking, as it combines the utility of both the tapes and the straight edge in a
small and convenient device. The device can also be used in connection with any
common or special system of cutting, being adaptable to all cases and classes
of work.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
(1) A device to be used in connection with tailoring, dress cutting and the like,
consisting of a square, divided off at one or more sides into units varying with the
size of square and having a certain proportion to the length of the sides,
substantially as described and for the purposes specified.
(2) The square for use in tailoring, dress cutting and the like, divided constructed
and used substantially in the manner described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
Dated this 19th day of October 1892
GEO. H. RAYNER,
37, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.