IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS APPLICABLE TO TWIST LACE MACHINES AND IN THE FABRICS PRODUCED THEREON
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Newton, in the employment of Edward Elsey, of
the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS APPLICABLE TO TWIST LACE
MACHINES AND IN THE FABRICS PRODUCED THEREON."
Sealed the 18th January 1878, and dated the 23rd November 1877
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Newton at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 23rd November 1877.
JOHN NEWTON, in the employment of Edward Elsey, of the Town and County
of the Town of Nottinghain. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS
APPLICABLE TO TWIST LACE MACHINES AND IN THE FABRICS PRODUCED THEREON."
In a twist lace machine of the usual construction I employ three or more guide
bars, each bar carrying a full set of guides. The guides in the back bar or bars and
the front bar or bars are each supplied with a thread from a spool; the central bar
or bars have their guides supplied with threads from a warp beam or beams. I
also employ a jack bar and a sley bar or bars to guide the jacks between the
threads. The spool threads when acted upon by the jacks are twisted round the
bobbin threads.
To make finings the jacks are held out by the needles of the jacquard so as to
allow the spool threads to traverse to and fro over two or more bobbin threads, which
bobbin threads have the usual movements given to them.
The grids of the jacquard are constructed so as to lift the needles the full
distance, or half the full distance, as necessary for the production of the pattern
required.
The needles in the jacquard are double hooked, and the jacks are of peculiar shapes
not heretofore used, and are operated upon by a locker bar.
By employing machinery and apparatus, as above described, I can make the fining
or clothwork ribbed upon both sides of the fabric instead of upon one side only, and
by employing different coloured spool threads and warp threads I can produce
Price Sd1

page_text: patterns of different colours upon one side of the fabric, or one side of the fabric one
colour, and the reverse side of another colour, or the net or groundwork of one or
two colours, as required, without having occasion to resort to clipping either of the
threads employed.
-
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 30th March
1878.
JOHN NEWTON, in the employment. of Edward Elsey, of the Town and County
of the Town of Nottingham. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS
APPLICABLE TO TWIST LACE MACHINES AND IN THE FABRICS PRODUCED THEREON."
In a twist lace machine of the usual construction I employ three or more guide
bars, each bar carrying a full set of guides. The guides in the back bar or bars and
the front bar or bars are cach supplied with a thread from a spool; the central bar
or bars have their guides supplied with threads from a warp beam or beams. I
also employ a jack bar and a sley bar or bars to guide the jacks between the
threads. The spool threads when acted upon by the jacks are twisted round
the bobbin threads.
To make finings the jacks are held out by the needles of the jacquard so as to
allow the spool threads to traverse to and fro over two or more bobbin threads,
which bobbin threads have the usual movements given to them.
The grids of the jacquard are constructed so as to lift the needles the full distance,
or half the full distance, as necessary for the production of the pattern required.
The needles in the jacquard are double hooked, and the jacks are of peculiar shapes
not heretofore used, and are operated upon by a locker bar.
By employing machinery and apparatus, as above described, I can make the fining
or clothwork raised upon both sides of the fabric instead of upon one side only, and
by employing different coloured spool threads and warp threads I can produce
patterns of different colours upon one side of the fabric, or one side of the fabric one
colour, and the reverse side of another colour, or the net or groundwork of one or
two colours, as required, without having occasion to resort to clipping either of the
threads employed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a sectional view of one modification of my improved apparatus applied
to a twist lace machine, a second modification being shewn at Figure 2, and Figures 2
to 8 portions of my improved apparatus shewn separately, and severally referred to
hereafter.
The several corresponding parts in each Figure are lettered alike.
In a twist lace machine of the usual construction I employ three or more guide
bars, each bar carrying a full set of guides.
In the modifications shewn at Figures 1 and 2 three guide bars are seen; when a
fourth guide bar is employed it occupies the position shewn by the dotted lines in
Figure 2; in such case the bracket Dis somewhat larger, having four slots to receive
the bars. The guides in the back bar or bars A and the front bar or bars C are
each supplied with a thread from a spool. The centre bar or bars B-bave their guides

page_text: supplied with threads from a warp beam or beams. I also employ a jack bar E,
seen at Figure 2, and a sley bar F to guide the jacks G between the threads.
The spool threads when acted upon by the jacks are twisted round the bobbin
threads H.
To make finings the jacks are held out by the needles I of the jacquard so as to
allow the spool threads to traverse to and fro over two or more bobbin threads,
which bobbin threads have the usual movements given to them.
The grids K of the jacquard are constructed so as to lift the needles the full
distance, or half the full distance, as necessary, for the production of the pattern
required.
The needles are lifted the two heights by the following means:-The needles I
are double hooked, as shewn at Figures 1 and 2, the hooked ends being of equal.
length, and each alternate blade of the grid being placed somewhat lower than
each next adjacent blade; upon the grid rising, the needles will be lifted the half
or the full height, as shewn at Figure 1, according to the selection made by the
jacquard cards.
If grids of the usual construction are employed, then I employ double-hooked
needles with hooks of two lengths, as shewn at Figure 2A, either arrangement
operating the needles alike.
I also employ jacks G of peculiar shapes not heretofore used, two such being
shewn at Figures 1 and 4; these jacks are operated upon by a back locker bar L
and a front locker bar M in the usual way. But when the back ends of the jacks
are straight, as shewn at Figure 1, to obtain either a partial or full drive through
the threads I provide the back-locker bar L with a rib or plate L' upon which the
back ends of the partially lifted jacks rest as the locker bar drives forward. Such
rib or plate is not required when I employ jacks having their back ends of the shape
shewn at Figure 4.
When spring jacks are preferred to be employed they are passed through the
threads by the jack bar E, shewn at Figure 2, in the usual way, the selected jacks
being held back by strings attached to the needles I operated upon by the grid K,
before described.
A fourth modification of jack, known as a picker jack, is shewn at Figure 3.
These jacks and those shewn at Figure 1 are kept down when not raised by the
jacquard needles by means of springs N of the usual construction.
The picker jacks are hinged at their front lower end by a rod O to sleys cast
in leads secured to a bar P; the back ends rise and fall in a sley P¹, the jacks
being lifted by strings attached to either modification of jacquard needles before
described.
The locker jacks shewn at Figures 1 and 4 rise and fall in a front sley Q and a
back sley Q1 of the usual construction.
Whichever combination of jacks are used the movements will be as follows:-I
employ a single-lift jacquard, with needles having two hooked upper ends, lifted by
a grid or grids each having its blades placed at two heights for the purpose of
lifting the jacks half up or quite up, so that the front ends of the jacks may be
placed to stop the back threads at the half lift and the threads in the guides of the
bars A and C when the jacks are left down, as shewn at Figure 1; but when jacks
like those shewn at Figure 3 are used the action of the jack is reversed, the pressing
off of the needles being effected by the jacquard cards in the usual way.
The strings from the hooked needles when attached to locker jacks, as shewn at
Figures 1 and 4, are driven through the threads by a locker or jack bar L operated
by a cam in the usual way, the jack sley bar F being moved to the right or left,
where required by a suitable cam.
The guides in the bar A may be provided with threads of one or more colours
from spools, and the guides in the bar C may be provided with threads of one or
more different colours, also supplied from spools. The guides in the warp bar B may be
provided with threads of the same or of a different colour or colours supplied from
one or more beams.

page_text: The combined movements of the apparatus and machine are as follows:-When
the carriages are in the back comb bar, as shewn at Figures 1 and 2, the jack sley
bar Frises one gate, the guide bar A rises one or two gates, as required, and the
guide bar C the same; the warp bar B rises one gate.
The jacks are operated as follows:-The unselected jacks are driven through the
whole of the threads by the back locker bar L, those jacks which are lifted partially
up are driven through the back spool threads, and those jacks which are lifted the
full height remain out; the guide bars A and C then rise one or more gates,
according to the thickness of the fining or clothwork required, then the carriages
pass through the threads into the front comb bar, the sley bar F and warp bar B
fall one gate, the jacks or pickers remaining in the threads, the guides bars A and C
falling one or more gates to their original position. The carriages then enter the
threads, and as they are passing through, the front locker bar M drives back the
whole of the jacks or pickers, the back locker bar L going back at the same time
for a fresh selection of the jacquard, when the motions are repeated.
The number of gates the spool bars are moved may be increased according to the
thickness of the fining or clothwork required. By such means I am enabled to pro-
duce patterns of different colours upon one side of the fabric, or one or more colours
upon one side and one or more different colours, upon the other, or the net or ground-
work of one or two colours, as required, without having occasion to resort to clipping
the threads employed.
The above-described combinations of apparatus are applicable for manufacturing
goods not coloured, to increase the thickness of the fining or cloth work, and by
placing the warp bar in front of the spool bars, and using threads of different
numbers or thickness, I am enabled to produce very heavy or light cloth or ground-
work, according to the pattern required.
The cams for operating the several bars are shewn at Figures 5 to 8.
The cam shewn at Figure 5 operates the back spool bar; this cam may be cut
to the shapes shewn by the dotted lines, according to the number of gates determined
upon.
The cam shewn at Figure 6 operates the front spool bar, the jack bar and warp
bar being severally operated by the cams shewn at Figures 7 and 8.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention and in what manner the
same may be performed, I declare that I claim for producing a fabric or fabrics with
a pattern raised upon both sides, the pattern and groundwork being of divers
colours, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated in the Drawing
annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Newton, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-first day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-eight
Witness,
H. W. GOUGH, C.E.,
Nottingham.
JOHN NEWTON. (L.S.)