IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SKIRTS USUALLY CALLED CRINOLINE SKIRTS
Year: 1861

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Herbert. Redgate at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with bis Petition, on the 7th September
.1861.
I, HERBERT REDGATE, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham,
Lace Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SKIRTS USUALLY CALLED
CRINOLINE SKIRTS," to be as follows:-
Heretofore in the constructing and working of bobbin net or twist laco
machines two classes of threads, are used; one known as warp threads, the
other as bobbin or carriage threads, and in producing bobbin net or twist lace
and close weavings by such machinery the warp threads are caused to move
in a direction from right to left, and vice versa, of the machines, while the
bobbin or carriage threads are moved transversely or from front to back and
back to front of the machines.
Hitherto in the construction and making of crinoline the steel used for the
purpose of expanding the crinoline has to be covered with cotton or other
threads by peculiars machinery, and when the steel is covered it is cut into
lengths, and those lengths are attached to tapes at convenient distances, one
end of each of such lengths is lapped or laid one over the other, in which
position they are secured, thus forming a skeleton crinoline. In addition to
this skeleton crinoline, the crinolines are sometimes covered with lace skirting
made on bobbin net machines, and when not covered with lace skirting they
are sometimes covered with loom fabrics or with Manchester skirting.

page_text: Whereas my Invention consists, in the first place, in having steel or other
bands, cords, or wires at certain distances inserted in the skirts, the said
bands, cords, or wire being covered with cotton, silk, or other substances, at
the same time as the bands, cords, or wires are inserted and secured in the
substance of the fabric made on the machines. These bands, cords, or wires
I wind upon a boxed bobbin, or on other bobbins, or on a warp beam, either
by themselves or with the warp as most convenient. In the front end at the
back of the bands, cords, or wires I arrange a number of warp threads, such
threads having been wound on a warp beam, or on separate bobbins. These
threads I pass through holes in a number of top bars, and take the ends up
between the inner ends of the combs and at the back and front of such steel
bands, cords, or wires for the purpose of covering the same: Tho remainder
of the warp threads, whether obtained from beams, bobbins, or spools which
are also passed through holes or guides in a number of top bars, where top
bars are used, or bottom bars when no top bars are used, and through the
guides or sets of one or more stump bars whero necessary. If the steel is
covered without the aid of the top bars, the several number of threads
required to cover the steel would go through the bottom bars and be carried
through the punched slots of the stump or other bars, the stump or other bars
being suitably arranged for that purpose; and when neither bottom bars or
stump bars are used the fabric can be made by jacks, in conjunction with top
bars, guide bars, or stump bars, or other bars of suitable construction. The steel
or other bands or cords I also pass through suitable guides or holes in the top
bars, or through one or more stump bars, holes being punched therein for that
purpose. The bands or cords are covered by some of the threads, while the
remainder of the threads make a fabric in the space lying between the bands
or cords. The mesh or pattern of the skirt or fabric between the bands or
cords being dependant upon the cut of the wheels (if wheels are used to move
the bars) or by the pattern cards, if the bars are moved by a jacquard. Tho
several threads of the skirt being secured as placed by the bars by a thread or
threads on each edge of the band or cord supplied from bobbins and carriages
in the usual way of working a bobbin net machine.
Secondly, in making crinoline skirts in the machine'known in the trade as the
"warp" machine, and at the same time covering the steel or other bands, cords,
or wires during their insertion in the fabric as it is made in the straight warp
frame or machine, I proceed as follows:-I take out a certain number of
needles and sinkers, where needles and sinkers are used, or their equivalents
when other instruments are used, and in their places I allow the band,
cord, or wire intended to bo covered to pass up between the needles or other

page_text: instruments lying on each side. The manner of throwing the threads for
making the fabric between the bands, cords, or wires may be any of the usual
ones known and used in the trade according to the pattern required; and for
covering the steel band, cord, or wire is as follows:-First, for covering the
band, cord, or wire I use one or more horizontal guide bars, with guides
thereon, the threads from such guides being wrapped round one or more
needles or other instruments on each side of the band, cord, or wire; the
threads which form the fabric pass at the back of the band, cord, or wire in
such manner that the threads forming the fabric and covering the back of the
bands, cord, or wire are pressed off the needles at the same time as the
threads covering the bands, cords, and wire. Or, I may prefer to make the
fabric with the threads in the front, and apply the threads as described for
the front at the back of the bands, cords, or wire; and in making certain
fabrics to form the skirts I sometimes use one or more extra needles on each
side of the bands, cords, and wires; and in other fabrics I use certain extra
guide bars, with guides and threads, such threads forming what are termed
floating threads, on that part of the skirt or fabric between the bands, cords,
or wires. Such floating threads are sometimes used for raising a pile or fleece
on one side of the skirt, such pile or fleece being made by passing the fabric
through a suitable fleecing machine, which machine is also well known in the
trade. Such machine I purpose to describe more particularly in my, Final
Specification. I sometimes also apply a floating thread or threads at the back
as well as the front when I require to make a thicker fabric, or to form a
fleece on both sides.
Thirdly, in making the above-described crinoline skirts on the straight
stocking loom I purpose using a similar arrangement of needles and sinkers,
or their equivalents, to that before mentioned as applied to the warp machine,
but instead of using guide bars I use carriers, one or more to each breadth of
fabric made between the bands, cords, or wires; such threads covering the
said bands, cords, or wires as before described. I also use extra carriers and
threads for placing floating threads for fleecing on one or both sides, as before
described. I not only use the two last before-mentioned arrangements in
which the needle bar is fixed, but I use similar arrangements with the needlo
bar, having a back and front and front and back horizontal sliding motion, and'
a fixed presser bar instead of a moveable one. When I use self-pressing
needles, which dispense with the use of sinkers and of pressers, I use either a
fixed or a moveable needle bar. When I use self-pressing needles and a
fixed needle bar, I move the needles back to press off the work by means of
a separate bar, which takes into a recess cut in the bits in which such needles

page_text: are fixed for soldering or otherwise, the bar moving the whole of the needles
back at one time; or I use tappet plates or disc wheels, and move the
needles back consecutively, alternately right and left and left and right.
When I use a moveable needle bar I'move such needle bar back to press off
the work, the needles being fast to the bar, and all moving back together.
In each of the above cases I only use needles lying horizontally and pointing
towards the front of the frame.
Fourthly, in making the above-mentioned crinoline skirts I use an arrange-
ment of self-pressing neodle, spaces being left between certain of each needles
for the insertion of steel bands, cords or wires, as before described; but the
needles instead of lying horizontally stand vertically, and in two rows parallel
to each other; the bars carrying such needles moving up and down in a
vertical position alternately, provided the needles are fixed; and I employ fixed
needle bars, and move the needles on the bars by another bar, as before
described. When each row of needles is required to move alternately, the
needles in each row moving altogether, or when the needles are required to
move alternately, portions of each row moving together, I move them as
before described, by one or more separate bars taking into recesses cut in the
needle bits, or I move them consecutively by means of a tappit plate or
plates, or by disc wheels.
Fifthly, in making skirts and covering the bands, cords, or wires I use an
arrangement of instruments as just described, but instead of the needles lying
in two distinct rows 1 place them alternately, crossing each other at any con-
venient angle; and, further, I use an arrangement of bars, cams, tappit plates,
or disc wheels to move each half of the needles either alternately or conse-
cutively. In each of the above arrangements I propose to throw in floating
threads, as before mentioned, by means of extra carriers and threads for the
purpose of forming a pile or fleece on one or both sides of the skirt.
Sixthly, I use a machine known in the hosiery trade as a circular or
"round about" frame, and in the circle of the needles in such machine I take
out some of the needles, and in the spaces thus produced I place the bands,
cords, or wires to be inserted in the skirts; and where I use the common
bearded needle I also use the usual presser wheels, loop wheels, push backs,
landing plates, knocking-over plates, and feeders. To.each such set I use two
carriers or thread feeders, one of which passes in, front, the other behind the
bands, cords, or wires, both threads being pressed off the needles, together,
thus covering and euclosing the bands, cords, or wires.
Seventhly, in circular machines having self-pressing neodles I dispense with
the presser wheels and knocking-over wheels, with their bearings and brackets,

page_text: but still use two carriers or thread feeders, one at the front and the other at
the back of the bands, cords, or wires to be covered, certain needles being
taken out of the circle for that purpose.
Eighthly, I also use a circular machine having two rings of self-acting
needles placed back to back, some of such needles in each circle having the
work pressed off their heads together at the same revolution, or alternately or
consecutively; the said needles being moved in a manner well known to the
trade.
Ninthly, I place two rows of needles in a circular machine alternately
crossing each other at any convenient angle, and move them in any of the
ways known to the trade, by which certain needles in each row can be moved
at the same time, or one or more of them alternately in each row consecutively;
and at each place where such needles are fed with thread I use two carriers or
thread feeders, as before described, for covering both front and back of the
bands, cords, or wires, and I use additional extra threads when I wish to
insert a floating thread for fleecing on one or both sides.
Tenthly, I propose to use any or all of the above arrangement for making
crinoline skirts, whether the steel or other bands, or cords, or wires are covered
previously or not.
Lastly, my Invention is also applicable to cotton, silk, or other looms used
for weaving