Improvements in the Jacquard Mechanism of Looms.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 26th June, 1895-Accepted, 27th July, 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Jacquard Mechanism of Looms.
A communication from abroad by THE WEAVER JACQUARD AND ELECTRIC
SHUTTLE COMPANY, a company incorporated under the laws of the State
of West Virginia, of Norwalk, in the State of Connecticut, all in the United
States of America.
I, PHILIP MIDDLETON JUSTICE of 55 and 56 Chancery Laue, in the County
of Middlesex, Fellow of the Chartered Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention relates to Jacquard mechanism for looms adapted for producing
an improved fabric, and it has for its object to provide a Jacquard mechanism
which shall be automatic in its action, and which may be adapted to looms of
ordinary constructions, by the use of which either a single or double faced fabric
may be woven, the patterns on each side of the double faced fabric being either
identical or totally different in design. The invention embodies certain broad
features which may be used together or separately or in connection with other
general features, and may be differently arranged according to the purposes
intended, and several arrangements of the main features, including certain specific
features, will now be described and their mode of operation set forth and illustrated
more particularly for weaving double-faced fabrics, their use for single-faced
fabrics and other purposes being readily understood by those skilled in the art.
Referring to the accompanying drawings:
Fig. 1, is a side elevation, part being in section, illustrating the position of the
parts when the depressing and lifting boards, respectively, are in their normally
elevated and lowered positions ;
Fig. 2, is a similar view of the opposite side of the machine, illustrating the
position of the parts when the depressing board is lowered;
Fig. 3 is a front elevation, parts of the upper pattern cylinder being removed to
illustrate the position of the needles;
Fig. 4 is a vertical, sectional view of Fig. 3, the lifting board being shown in its
elevated position.
Fig. 5 is a detail perspective view, parts being broken away, illustrating the
construction and arrangement of the slots or bearings in the needles and lifting aud
depressing boards.
Fig. 6 is a vertical sectional view taken longitudinally through one of the
needles and the depressing board, illustrating the position of the cords and needles
with respect to the pattern roll just previous to the depression of the first cord of
the series, parts being broken away.
Fig. 7 is a similar view, showing the position of the second cord previous to its
being lowered by the depressing board.
Fig. 8 is a similar view, showing a similar position of the third cord.
Fig. 9 is a similar view, illustrating a similar position of the fourth cord.
Fig. 10 is a similar view, showing a similar position of the fifth cord.
Fig. 11 is a detail sectional view of one form or the pattern cylinders.
Fig. 12 is a side elevation, showing a combined lifting and depressing board, the
said board being in its normal position.

page_text: ΟΙ the same, parts being broken away to snow the
position of the needles with relation to the pattern cylinder.
Fig. 14 is a vertical sectional view of Fig. 13, the lifting and depressing board
being shown in an elevated position.
Fig. 15 is a detail perspective view, some of the parts being broken away,
illustrating the construction of the shifting needles and lifting and depressing
board.
Fig. 16 is a vertical longitudinal section through one of the shifting needles,
and transversely through the lifting and depressing board, showing the parts in
position just previous to the elevation or depression of the first cord in the
series.
Fig. 17 is a detail sectional view of another form of pattern cylinder.
Fig. 18 is a detail view of the supporting frame of the lifting and depressing
board, showing the cam groove therein.
Fig. 19 is a detail view of the mechanism for rotating the pattern cylinder.
Fig. 20 is a detail vertical sectional view of the supporting frame and rotating
mechanism of the two preceding figures.
Fig. 21 is an enlarged detail plan view of a portion of one form of double-faced
reversible fabric, which may be made by the mechanism before described.
Fig. 22 is a longitudinal sectional view of Fig. 21.
Figs. 23, 24, 25, 26 and 27, are detail views showing the relative positions
assumed by the figuring warp-threads in the fabric illustrated in Fig. 21.
Fig. 28 is a detail view of the binding warp-threads.
Fig. 29 illustrates a modified form of fabric formed with opposite pile faces.
Fig. 30 is another modified form of fabric, in which both faces are formed
smooth.
Fig. 31 is a side elevation, showing an embodiment of the invention, in which
there is a single lifting board.
Fig. 32 is a reverse side clevation of the same.
Fig. 33 is a front elevation of the same, parts being broken away.
Fig. 34 is a vertical section of the same.
Fig. 35 is a detail perspective view, showing the relative positions of the warp
supporting cords, shifting needles and slots in the lifting board, and
Fig. 36 is a vertical sectional view of the pattern cylinder, belt, shifting needles,
lifting board, and warp supporting cords.
The leading features of this invention comprise, among other things, a construction
whereby a series of warp supporting devices are put under the control of a single
shifting needle, instead of using a single needle for cach warp supporting device,
as is common, pattern devices for regulating the shifting of the needles, whereby
any one of the warp supporting devices controlled by each needle may be brought
into engagement with means for operating the warp supporting devices; and means
for controlling the warp supporting devices, said means being in the form of a
hoard having slots or passages and bearing surfaces, and arranged to lift or depress,
or both, the warp supporting devices; and these three leading features are
arranged to be operated and controlled in various ways, constructed in different
forms, and accomplish different results in connection with other features of the
invention, which will appear more particularly hereafter. The shifting needles may
be variously constructed to control a series of warp supporting devices of greater
or less number, and are arranged to move at various distances or to different
predetermined points to determine the particular warp supporting device to be
brought into operative position; the pattern devices for regulating the movements
of the needles may also be variously constructed, and regulate and control the
movements of the shifting needles, and are very much simplified, and more compact
than the ordinary pattern devices; and the lifting or depressing board may be
variously constructed and provided with slots, passages and bearings of different
forms and shapes, and may be used as a single lifting or depressing board, a
combined lifting and depressing board, or there way be a separate lifting and

page_text: separate depressing board. While these and their adjunctive mechanisms are-
shown as combined more particularly for the weaving of double-faced fabrics, they
can be used for other kinds of fabrics, and many and various combinations and
arrangements of these parts will readily suggest themselves to those skilled in the
art. Some of the preferred arrangements will now be described in detail, sufficient
to disclose the general principles and application of the invention.
A, represents the frame, adapted to be secured upon or adjacent to any ordinary
loom. B, is a vertically reciprocating lifting board, guided in its movements by
means of projections 1, which engage slots 2, in each side of the frame A. Various
means may be used for operating the lifting board, several of which will be
described, but referring to Figs. 1 to 4 particularly, there are connected to the
lifting board on opposite sides thereof, Y shaped arms 3, which project vertically
downward therefrom, and are pivotally connected to the ends of lever arms 4,
which are in turn pivoted at 5, to the frame, the lower ends of the Y shaped arms
being provided with cam faces 3ª. A reciprocating movement is imparted to the
lever arms 4, and from them to the Y shaped arms 3, and lifting board B, by means
of cams 6, which are secured at each side of the frame upon a transverse shaft 7.
The cams are so constructed as to lift the lifting board B and return it to its normal
lower position, where it is allowed to dwell, while the shifting needles operate, aud
in this particular embodiment also while a depressing board B¹ is being lowered
and returned to its normal position.
The lifting board is provided with slots or passages through which the warp
supporting devices or cords pass, and with bearings which engage enlargements on
the cords to lift them, as hereafter described. The slots or passages extend on each
side of the bearings, so that the cords may pass from the bearings to the slots or
passages on either side thereof; the bearings and the slots or passages are arranged
in such relation to each other that only one of each series of warp-supporting
devices or cords is lifted at a time, the other cords of the series passing freely
through the slots or passages on one or the other side of the bearings, and after
any one of the series of warp supporting cords is lifted, the cords may be moved to
provide for the lifting of any of the others in the series at the next movement of the
lifting board, and for this purpose the slots or passages extend from each side of
the bearings and permit the warp supporting cords to pass freely into and from
positions to be engaged by the bearings. The relations of the bearings and
passages will vary with the number of warp supporting cords in the series, and will
be duplicated across the board to correspond with the number of warp. threads
brought to the face of the fabric at any one time.
In the present instance the lifting board is shown in Fig. 5, as provided with
several series of slots or passages adapted to operate with five warp supporting
cords, the slots being independent of each other, and of different reiative lengths.
In this particular instance the slot 11, is shown as having a passage at one side
only of the bearings, as with this particular number of threads and the peculiar
arrangement of the shifting needles, it is not necessary to provide means for
moving the warp supporting cord 27 to both sides of the bearings to carry out the
principles of the invention in this embodiment. The lifting board B (Fig. 5) is
provided with slots 8, 9, 10 and 11, they being shown of different relative lengths,
and are each formed with enlargements or passages 8%, and with narrower portions
or bearings 8b, which merge into said enlarged portions to form a continuous and
unobstructed passage between them. The slot 8, in the present instance is provided
with two sets of bearings 8b, and three enlargements 8. The slot 9, has a single
bearing 8b, and two enlargements 8°. The slot 10, is similar in general outline to
the slot 9, although more extended, and the slot 11 is formed with a single
enlargement 8 and a single bearing 8. These slots are arranged transversely
across the lifting board in parallel lines.
Arranged below and parallel to the lifting board are a series of slotted needles C,
The needles
one needle being provided for each series of slots in the lifting board.
are supported near their front and rear ends in the frame A (Fig. 4) and are

page_text: adapted to move independently towards a pattern cylinder D, mounted in the
frame A. The needles C, are each provided with a series of slots or bearings 13,
14, 15 and 16, corresponding with the slots in the lifting board in number and
direction, and they are of various lengths in the present form, although they may
be of uniform length or may be in the form of ordinary wire shifting needles,
with a series of eyes.
The pattern cylinder D, is provided on its face with a series of recesses 12, each
recess being of the same diameter and depth (see Fig. 11). One of these annular
series of recesses 12, is provided for each needle C, and each recess of a series is
designed to be successively brought into alignment with the point of its needle.
In order to vary the extent of the forward movement of the needles C, the
thimbles 12", of different depths are used. Said thimbles are adapted to be
inserted into the recesses 12, and the inside diameter of said thimbles is sufficiently
large to permit the ready insertion and withdrawal of the needles C. When it is
desired to prevent the forward movement of the needles C, a solid plug 12°, of the
same size and shape as the thimbles 12", may be inserted into the proper recess 12,
against which the end of the needle will impinge, and the forward movement
thereof be prevented. The depth of the thimble 12, which a needle engages
determines the extent of the forward movement of said needle, and the extent of
the forward movement of the needle determines the color or character of the warp
thread to be raised at the next elevation of the lifting board B.
By the employment of a thickly recessed pattern cylinder D, and of the
thimbles 12 of varying depths which may be inserted into the recesses of the
cylinder, it will be evident that the pattern of the fabric being woven may be
readily changed by shifting the relative positions of the thimbles in the cylinder,
and thus the necessity and expense of making new pattern devices whenever it is
desired to change the design or pattern of a fabric is obviated.
In
In Fig. 17, is illustrated a modified form of the pattern cylinder D, having the
recesses 12 as before, and each recess is provided with a flat headed screw 12", the
head of which is preferably of the same diameter as the recesses, the shanks of said
screws being adapted to be screwed into the bottom of the recesses, and accordingly
as the head of a screw 12b, is near the bottom or top of its recess is the extent of
the forward movement of the corresponding needle increased or decreased.
Fig. 36, is another form of pattern cylinder D, having recesses 12, of the same
depth and diameter and equally spaced from each other. Instead of using the
thimbles or
screws before described in the recesses, in this case a pattern
belt, D', passes over the pattern cylinder and it is provided with a series of
perforations 12" formed in the pattern belt in accordance with the pattern to be
woven, and they are of different diameters. In connection with this pattern belt
the shifting needles C, are adapted to engage the perforations of the pattern
belt and enter the recesses in the cylinder, and the extent of the engagement
is determined by the size of the perforation in the pattern belt in connection
with the form of the end of the needle, which is provided with a series of steps c,
each step being preferably of equal length but of different diameters and increasing
toward the rear end of the needle, forming vertical shoulders between each pair
of steps. It is apparent that when a perforation of the smallest diameter is in
alignment with the needle C, the point of the needle will be allowed to pass
through the perforation until the first shoulder comes in contact with the face
of the pattern belt. If a perforation of the second largest diameter is in
alignment with the needle, the point will be permitted to enter the perforation
in the pattern belt until the second shoulder of the needle comes in contact with
the face of the pattern belt, and so on, the size of the perforations in the pattern
belt presented in front of the needle determining the extent of the forward
movement of each needle, and the extent of the forward movement of each needle
determines the color or character of the warp threads to be raised or lowered,
as the case may be.
It is evident that a step-by-step motion should be imparted to the pattern

page_text: cylinder D, by some suitable mechanism to bring the recesses 12, in alignment
with the needles C, and various mechanisms may be used for accomplishing this
result, some of which will be briefly described hereafter.
The lifting board B, may serve merely as a lifting board, as shown in Figs. 31
to 36, or it may be used in conjunction with the depressing board B', as shown in
Figs. 1 to 5, or it may be used as both a lifting and depressing board, as shown in
Figs. 12 to 16, and in all cases it operates to move the warp supporting devices
either to elevate or depress them, as the case may be, in accordance with the
relative position of the shifting needles, which positions, as before intimated, are
controlled by the pattern device. In Figs. 1 to 5, the lifting board may be said
to be divided and formed into two parts, one part B, operating practically as a
lifting board, while the part B', operates as a depressing board, they being
substantially the same in construction and in general mode of operation, being
guided in the same slots 2, of the frame by projections 1, and being provided
with Y shaped arms 18, projecting downward therefrom, and pivotally connected
to the ends of the lever arms 19, by which a vertically reciprocating movement
is imparted to it by means of a cam 20, located on opposite sides of the frame
on the shaft 7, and the Y shaped arins are provided with cam faces 18". In
this instance the cams 6 and 20, which reciprocate the lifting and depressing
boards are arranged to operate said boards alternately. When the lifting board B,
is raised, as in Fig. 4, the depressing board will remain in its normally elevated
position until the lifting board has returned to its lower position, whereupon the
depressing board B', will be lowered and returned to its normally elevated position,
during which movement the board B will remain stationary. In this case there is
also a series of slotted shifting needles C, supported above the depressing board and
operating in connection with the upper pattern device D, and these needles,
pattern device, and depressing board co-operate in moving the warp supporting
devices in the same manner as the lifting board B, and its co-operating elements,
the only difference being that in one case the warp supporting devices are moved
upward, and in the other downward to open the shed above or below the normal
plane of the warps in making a double faced fabric, such as is hereafter described.
For convenience of illustration, the machine is shown as adapted for weaving a
fabric of five colors, although it will be understood that any number of colors or
characters of warp threads may be used. In weaving a fabric of five colors, the
warps are separated into bunches, each of which contains one thread of each
color, and the five different threads are passed through one space in the reed of the
loom. Each of the warp threads, however, is threaded through an eye 22, of
the warp supporting device or tail cords 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, and these cords are
elevated or lowered to open the shed by the action of the lifting or depressing.
board. The warp supporting devices are preferably provided with lingoes 28, as
shown, and are secured at their upper ends to rods 29, each of which may be
encircled by a spring, against the action of which the rods are pulled downward
by the depressing board. Each of the warp supporting devices or cords is
provided with enlargements, as knots 30, 31, the former of which in the present
instance are located below the depressing board B', and the latter above the
lifting board B, and these knots are of such a size as to permit their free
passage through the enlargements 8ª, of the slots in the lifting and depressing
boards, while they are too large to pass through the narrow portions or bearings 8b.
The warp supporting devices or cords 23 and 24, as shown in Fig. 5, pass through
the slots 13 in the upper and lower set of needles and the slots 8 of the lifting and
depressing boards, and the cord 25, passes through the slots 14 of the needles
and 9 of the boards, while the cord 26, passes through the slots 15 of the needles
and 10 of the boards, and the cord 27 through the slots 16 of the needles and 11 of
the boards, respectively.
The position of the warp supporting devices or cords 23 to 27, in the slots 8
to 11 of the lifting or depressing board determines which one is to be lifted or
depressed at the next movement of the board, it being understood that only one cord

page_text: of each series is lifted or depressed at one time, but different cords in the duplicate
series may be lifted or depressed at the same time.
The shifting of the cords is performed by the needles C, controlled by the depths
of the holes in the thimbles 12, of the respective pattern cylinders.
In order to illustrate the positions assumed by the needles to shift the warp
supporting devices or tail cords, reference is made to Figs. 6-10, wherein only the
depressing board B₁, is shown for convenience, and sections of the pattern cylinder
and a single shifting needle. When the points of the shifting needles C, bear upon
a plug 12, of the pattern cylinder, they are in their initial position, and when in
this position the warp supporting cords 23 are moved into the narrow or bearing
portion 8, of the slots 8, of the depressing board, so that when the depressing
board is moved downward, the enlargements 30, will be engaged by the bearing
portions of the depressing board, and the corresponding warp threads will be
lowered.
When the needle, as shown in Fig. 7, engages one of the thimbles 12º, of the
least depth, the needles will move forward a distance corresponding to the depth of
the hole in said thimble, and the tail cord 24 will be moved in position to engage
the second bearing portion of the slot 8, in order that the enlargement 30, may be
engaged by the depressing board; so, as shown in Figs. 8, 9, and 10, when the
needles engage the various thimbles of different depths, the cords 25, 26 and 27,
respectively, will move into position to be engaged by the bearing surfaces of their
respective slots in the depressing board, as will readily be understood by inspection
of the drawings. Furthermore, it will be understood that when any one of the tail
cords 23, 24, 25, 26 or 27 is moved by the ueedles so as to engage the bearings of
the respective slots 8, 9, 10 and 11, in the lifting or depressing board, the remaining
cords will be shifted into the enlarged portions 8*, of the respective slots, and these
remaining cords will pass freely through the slots at the next movement of the
lifting or depressing board, so that only one of each series of cords will be raised or
lowered at the same time.
Some means must be provided for withdrawing the needles from engagement with
their respective pattern cylinders after the lifting and depressing boards start on
their upward or downward movements to permit the pattern cylinder to be moved
a step forward to bring a different line or series of recesses in front of the needles.
Where two pattern cylinders are used, as in Figs. 1-5, the pattern cylinders may
be operated alternately or simultaneously, they being illustrated as being operated
alternately, and it is evident that various means may be used for this purpose.
As shown in Fig. 4, the needles pass through cross-heads H, near their rear
ends and are permitted to move independently of said cross-heads, and springs,
as 33, are interposed between the cross-heads and the frame A, and encircle each
needle and tend to force the needles forward into engagement with the pattern
cylinders. The cross-heads are guided in slots 35, and secured in horizontal
franes 37, arranged on each side of the frame A, and extending parallel therewith
to the front thereof. The forward ends of the frames 37, are bifurcated and have
slots 38 and 39, engaged by pins 40, on the upper ends of levers 41, which are
arranged at each side of the frame, the said pins resting normally at the rear ends
of the slots (see Fig. 1). The levers 41, are pivoted near their centres to the
frame, and at their lower ends to transverse rods 42, the forward ends of which rods
engage the cam faces 3* and 18", of the Y shaped arms 3 and 18. These rods 42,
are guided in boxes 43, and are encircled by springs 44, tending to keep them in
engagement with the cam faces.
With this arrangement it will be seen that at each elevation or depression, as the
case may be, of the Y shaped arms 3 or 18, of the lifting or depressing boards, the
rods 42, will be pressed forward by the action of the cams, and the upper ends of
the levers 41, be thrown rearwardly, which action will cause the horizontal frames 37,
to move correspondingly to operate the cross-heads H and withdraw the needles
simultaneously from engagement with their respective pattern cylinders at each
elevation and lowering of the lifting and depressing boards, and they will be held

page_text: in this position by the cams until the return of said boards to their normally lowere.I'
or elevated positions, when the needles will again be moved by the springs into
engagement with the pattern cylinders, which have meantime been moved one step.
in advance.
Various means may be used for moving the cylinders, and in the form shown in
Figs. 1-5, each cylinder is provided with a ratchet wheel 51, and a lever 52,
journaled upon the shaft of the wheel, which carries a pawl 53, engaging the
ratchet wheel. The end of the lever 52 is provided with a pin 54, which engages a
slot 55, in one end of the link 56, which is connected at its other end to one of the
levers 41, so that when the latter is moved rearwardly the pattern cylinder will be
operated one step through the medium of the pawl and ratchet movement.
.
It is sometimes desired to turn the pattern cylinder backwards, and for this
purpose a second ratchet wheel 57, may be journaled on one end of the shaft 50,
designed to rotate in the opposite direction to the ratchet wheel 51, and the
lever 58, is provided with a pawl 59, which normally hangs out of engagement.
with the ratchet wheel 57 and is designed to be thrown into engagement with it by
means of a cord 60, passing over a pulley 61, and extending downward to a point
within easy reach of the operator. When the pawl 59 is thrown into engagement
with its ratchet wheel 57, to move it, the pawl 53, is lifted from its ratchet
wheel 51, by means of a branch of the cord 60, to allow the pattern cylinder to be
turned back, as best shown in Fig. 1.
The warp supporting cords are shown as maintained in vertical position by
means of the comber-board 80, through which they pass.
The operation of this machine is briefly described as follows:
Assuming that the lifting and depressing boards are in their normal positions,.
and the needles in engagement with their respective pattern cylinders, the lifting
board B, will be elevated, causing one of each series of warp supporting
cords 23-27 to be lifted. When these cords are lifted, the warp threads which
pass through the eyes 22 thereof will be drawn upwards, thereby opening the shed
above the normal plane of the warps to permit a thread-carrier or pile wire being
passed through it. Simultaneously with the elevation of the lifting board, both
the series of needles will be withdrawn from engagement with their pattern
cylinders and the lower one of said cylinders will be rotated one step forward.
When the lifting board is lowered, the needles are again permitted to engage their
respective pattern cylinders, and the depressing board will be lowered, carrying
one of each series of warp-supporting cords and their corresponding warp threads
downward to open the shed upon the under side of the fabric, and permit the
passage therethrough of the thread carrier or pile wire. Simultaneously with the
fowering of the depressing board, the needles are withdrawn from engagement
with the pattern cylinders, and the upper pattern cylinder is rotated one step
forward, while the lower pattern cylinder remains stationary.
In the embodiment illustrated in Figs. 31-36, there is shown a single lifting
board, a single pattern cylinder, and a single set of shifting needles, and the
mechanism is substantially the same as that heretofore described for operating
the parts, and will be understood from the preceding description, but in this case
the pattern cylinder is provided with a pattern belt, as previously described.
In the embodiment illustrated in Figs. 12-20, there is a single lifting board,
which moves alternately from a normally central position to an elevated or
depressed position, the warp supporting devices being provided with enlargements
on each side of the normal position of the board, and there is a single pattern
cylinder, and a single set of needles, and the general arrangement and operation
of the machine is substantially as heretofore described.
In this case it will be observed that the pattern cylinder is arranged to regulate
the movements of the shifting needles, so as to form different patterns on opposite
faces of the fabric; accordingly the recesses 12, which are arranged in series
around the circumference of the pattern cylinder, form also transverse series
across said pattern cylinder, the depths of one transverse series being arranged to

page_text: form the pattern on the upper face of the fabric, and the depths of the next series
being arranged to form the pattern on the lower face of the fabric, and so on,
recesses of the proper depth to form the two patterns being arranged across the
pattern cylinder in alternate transverse series.
As the lifting board is alternately raised and depressed and caused to dwell at
the extreme of each movement to allow the shuttle to pass through the shed, and
at its normal or central position to allow the shifting of the pattern cylinder and
needles, a somewhat different operating mechanism is shown, which will now be
briefly described.
Connected to the lifting board B, at opposite sides, are the lifting frames 70,
which extend vertically downward therefrom, and are provided at their lower
ends with cam grooves 71, which are engaged by studs 72, on the face of gears 73,
which are here keyed on shafts 74, supported in the frame. Motion is imparted to
the gears 73, by means of an intermeshing gear 75, supported upon the end of a
vertical shaft 76, which is connected at its lower end to a suitable driving
mechanism (not shown). The lifting frames are guided in their reciprocation
by lugs 77, which engage slots 78, in the frame. As the gears 73 are revolved,
the studs 72, travel in cam grooves 71, and lift the frame 70, which in turn
lifts the lifting or depressing board B, whatever its normal position, where it
is allowed to dwell to allow the thread carrier to be thrown through the shed which
has just opened above the normal plane of the warp threads. After this operation
has taken place, the lifting or depressing board is lowered to its normal position
and dwells there, while the warp supporting cords are being shifted by the shifting
mechanism. The board is then lowered below its normal position and permitted to
dwell at the terminal of its movement to permit the thread carrier to be thrown
through the shed which has opened below the normal plane of the warp threads by
the downward movement of the board, and the board is then restored to its normal
position and held during the shifting of the warp supporting devices, and these
movements are controlled by the cam groove 71.
A somewhat different mechanism is shown for operating the shifting needles and
rotating the pattern cylinder, and as before, the needles pass through the cross
head H, and are provided with collars 81, secured thereon intermediate of the
cross head H, and the rear of the frame, and a spring is interposed between the collar
and the frame, as before. The cross head H, is guided in the frame and is secured
to arms 82, arranged at each side of the frame and extending parallel therewith.
The forward ends of the arms 82, are connected to the upper ends of the vertical
levers 83 which are in turn pivoted at their lower ends to the frame, and are
provided about midway of their length with studs 84, which engage a groove 85, in
a cam 86, secured upon the shaft 74. The cam is constructed so as to operate the
cross head H, and permit the shifting needles to engage the pattern cylinder only
when the lifting and depressing board is at its normal position. The pattern
cylinder is provided with a ratchet and lever, which are connected to one of the
levers 83, and operated by the cam 86, see Figs. 12 and 14.
While as before indicated and as will be apparent, this invention may be used in
weaving many and various kinds of fabric, it is especially well adapted for the
weaving of double-faced reversible fabric, the opposite faces of which are totally
different in design, and it may have a pile face on one side and a plain face on the
opposite side. The manner of making such a fabric is indicated in Figs. 21-28
inclusive, and Figs. 29 and 30 indicate other forms of fabric, in one of which
both sides have pile faces, and in the other both faces are smooth, and these
will serve to show the capacity of the invention and adaptability to various
purposes.
In the fabric illustrated in Figs. 21-28 there are five figuring warp
threads, a, a, a, a³, aª, of different colors or characters, and there may, of course,
be as many as desired. These figuring warp threads are arranged in groups across
the fabric and between each group of figuring warp threads there are two binding
warp threads b, b', which are designed to interchange and bind the figuring warp

page_text: threads between the binding weft-threads. The binding weft-threads d, d', are
successively inserted into the fabric intermediate of the other weft threads, the
binding weft thread d, passing across the upper surface of the fabric, and the
binding weft thread d' across the under surface thereof in vertical alignment with
each other, and after being inserted the binding weft threads are beat up by a reed
in the usual manner. A filling weft thread e is then put into the under face of the
fabric adjacent the binding weft thread d¹, and beat up, after which the binding
wefts are again inserted and beat up, and this operation is repeated throughout the
length of the fabric.
As the figuring warps in the fabric above described are arranged in groups, and
it is possible to use only two warps of each group in the formation of coincident
loops or ribs, it is essential that the remaining figuring warps be compressed into as
small a space as possible, otherwise the ground of the fabric would be objectionable
on account of thickness, and might be visible between the loops or ribs, and in
order to insure the fabric being compact, two binding warp threads b, b, are
inserted into the fabric between each group of the figuring warps to bind the
binding weft threads d, d' which are inserted across the fabric on the upper and
lower faces thereof, respectively, and these binding warp threads are used
alternately to bind the binding weft threads, that is, one of them passes over the
binding weft on the upper face of the fabric, thence downwardly between the
binding wefts and around the binding weft on the lower face of the fabric, from
whence it passes upwardly to the normal plane of the figuring warps, where it floats
through the next adjacent pair of wefts, which are bound by the remaining binding
warp. It will be obvious that by combining each pair of coincident binding wefts,
with one binding warp, they are drawn closer together than would be possible if
the binding warps were passed over the binding weft on one face of the fabric, and
thence over the next succeeding weft on the opposite face of the fabric.
When one of the figuring warps a, a', etc. is raised above the upper surface of
the fabric by the Jacquard mechanism, a pile wire p (Fig. 22) is inserted between
it and the remaining four warp threads, to form a loop l. The raised warp thread
then returns to its place among the remaining figuring warps, and a thread of
different color or character lowered below the under surface of the fabric to
permit a weft filling thread e, of the desired color to be inserted between it and the
remaining four figuring warp threads. The lowered figuring warp threads and the
binding warp thread b, are elevated to permit the binding weft thread d to be run
between it and the figuring warp threads a, a¹, etc. after which it is lowered beneath
the lower surface of the fabric, and the binding weft thread d', is inserted between
it and the figuring warp threads; the binding warp thread is then returned to its
place among the figuring warp-threads, and the read is caused to beat up the fabric.
It will be noticed that during the operation described above, the three figuring
warp threads of said group and the binding warp threads which are not used
are run straight through the fabric. This operation is repeated throughout the
length of the fabric, the binding warp threads b, ', being used to bind the binding
weft-threads d, d', in the manner described and illustrated in Figs. 21 and 22.
It will be understood that when one of the figuring warp threads is brought to
the upper surface of the fabric, any one of the remaining figuring warp threads
may be brought to the lower surface thereof, and hence the invention is distinguished
from those in which the. figuring warp threads are arranged in pairs, wherein when
one thread of the pair is carried to the upper surface of the fabric, the remaining
thread is carried to the lower surface thereof to form the same pattern on opposite
sides of the fabric in different colors.
It will be noted that by inserting pile wires p on both faces of the fabric, a
double faced pile may be woven, as shown in Fig. 29, or by inserting weft filling
threads in both sides of the fabric a double smooth faced fabric may be made, as
shown in Fig. 30.
It will be seen that the Jacquard mechanism with the shifting needles, lifting
B

page_text: board, and pattern cylinder before described, will co-operate in producing these
various fabrics in the most simple, rapid, and satisfactory manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to me
from abroad by my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. An organized Jacquard mechanism wherein the various warp supporting
devices are arranged in series, and may be shifted, under the control of a pattern
device so that any one and only one warp supporting device of a series may be
operated in forming the shed, substantially as described.
2. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, wherein the warp supporting devices are
arranged in series, mechanism provided with bearings for operating the warp
supporting devices, and shifting needles controlling each series of warp supporting
devices, so that any one and only one warp supporting device of a series is brought
into engagement with the bearings at the same time, substantially as described.
3. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, a lifting board or a lifting and depressing
board or boards provided with bearings having passages at each side of the bearings
adapted to co-operate with shifting needles and warp supporting devices arranged
in series, so that any one and only one warp supporting device of each series may
be brought into engagement with the bearings, while the remaining warp supporting
devices of each series extend through the passages, substantially as set forth.
4. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, a lifting board or lifting and depressing
board or boards provided with slots of varying lengths and widths and adapted to
co-operate with the warp supporting devices and shifting needles, substantially as
described.
5. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, a pattern device having recesses and
adjustable devices for said recesses to control the extent of movements of the
shifting needles, substantially as described.
6. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, the shifting needles having slots or
bearings of varying lengths adapted to control a series of warp supporting devices,
in connection with a lifting or lifting and depressing board or boards, substantially
as described.
7. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, shifting needles having a series of
openings for a number of warp supporting devices and adapted to move varying
distances to shift any one of the warp supporting devices under the control of the
pattern device, substantially as described.
8. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, the combination with warp supporting
devices, of a lifting board and a depressing board each provided with bearings and
passages at each side of the bearings, shifting needles, and pattern devices,
substantially as described.
9. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, the combination with warp supporting
devices, of a combined lifting and depressing board arranged to be moved above
and below its cormal position to control the warp supporting devices, substantially
as described.
10. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms a combined lifting and depressing board
arranged to be moved above and below its normal position, warp supporting
devices having engaging portions above and below the lifting board, and means
for shifting the warp supporting devices into and out of positions to be engaged
by the lifting and depressing board, substantially as described.
11. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, the combination with a lifting and
depressing mechanism, of warp supporting devices, and pattern controlled devices
adapted to shift the warp supporting devices to be engaged by the lifting and
depressing mechanism, substantially as described.
12. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, lifting and depressing mechanism, and
means for elevating and lowering the said mechanism and permitting it to dwell at
the terminal of its upward and downward movements, substantially as described.

page_text: 13. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, a pattern device for forming two
separate and distinct patterns, the patterns arranged in alternate transverse series,
each alternate series being formed in accordance with one pattern, while the
intermediate series are formed in accordance with the second pattern, substantially
as described.
14. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, a pattern device provided with openings
of different sizes, shifting needles having stepped ends and provided with bearings
of varying lengths engaging the warp supporting devices, and lifting or lifting and
depressing mechanism co-operating with said warp-supporting devices, substantially
as described.
15. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, shifting needles having stepped ends
and provided with bearings of varying lengths engaging the warp supporting
devices, pattern devices for regulating the movements of the shifting needles, and
nechanism for operating the warp supporting devices as they are brought into
engagement therewith by the needles, substantially as described.
16. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, the combination with a lifting or lifting
and depressing board or boards provided with bearings and passages at each side
of the bearings, of shifting needles having bearings of different lengths, warp
supporting devices engaging the bearings of the shifting needles and boards, and
pattern devices controlling the shifting needles, substantially as described.
17. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, the combination with lifting or lifting
and depressing mechanism, of warp supporting devices arranged in series, and a
shifting needle for each series of warp-supporting devices provided with bearings
of different lengths, whereby any one of the series of warp supporting devices may
be brought into engagement with the lifting and depressing mechanism by a single
movement of the needle, under the control of pattern devices, substantially as
described.
18. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, warp supporting devices arranged in
series, lifting or lifting and depressing mechanism, and shifting needles under the
control of pattern devices adapted to move different distances to bring the
various warp-supporting devices of a series into position to be engaged by
the lifting or lifting and depressing mechanism, substantially as described.
19. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, the combination of warp supporting
cords, having lingoes at their lower ends and spring controlled rods at their upper
ends, and lifting and depressing mechanism, for elevating and lowering' said cords,
substantially as described.
20. In a Jacquard mechanism for looms, the various constructions having the
mode of operation and performing the functions substantially as hereinbefore
described.
Dated the 26th day of June 1895.
PHILIP M. JUSTICE.