The Manufacture of Impermeable Hats in Imitation of Leghorn and Straw.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 29th Nov., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 29th Aug., 1895-Accepted, 5th Oct., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
The Manufacture of Impermeable Hats in Imitation of Leghorn
and Straw.
I, FREDERICK JOHN ELLIOTT, of 12 and 13 Barbican, in the City of London,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, which has been
communicated to me from abroad by Mathias and Co., of 165 Boulevard de la
Villette, Paris, France, Manufacturers, to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of hats in imitation of leghorns and
straws from a stiff woven material, in charging the pores or meshes of the fabric
when shaped with a waterproofing compound, in blocking them to pattern, and
finally producing the required tint-or colour in true imitation of leghorn, or of
straw, the brims being bound with wire or cane at the outer edge by an overlap of
the fabric.
For the purpose of this invention, a stiff fabric, say buckram is cut and made up
approximately to the desired contour of a hat. The "shape" is then coated on
both sides with gilders size, gelatine, or other glutinous body as a base for holding
kaolin, zinc white, or the like, either as the glue compound, or separately, to which
a yellow tint can be given by a suitable colour (earthy or other), the shape is then
subjected to hydraulic, water bag, or other powerful press to give the imprint of
the mould or moulds to the pattern of plaited straw.
The "shape can be further pressed to smooth down any irregularities and be
afterwards subjected to treatment by parafine, in benzine, or their equivalents, the
"shape" can then be heated in a vessel and then exposed for the volatile spirit to
pass away.
The edge wire or cane can be put in and enveloped in the edge of the brim to
enable said brim to be stiffened and to retain its shape.
The hat thus made is brushed over with brimstone and rubbed to give it a finish.
Benzine has been mentioned but spirits of wine, methylated spirit, benzol, foluol,
xylol, cumol, essence of turpentine, or other available spirit will answer, and
although parafine is referred to, any kind of animal wax, or vegetable wax can be
substituted.
Dread this 20th day of November 1894
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166 Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Frederick John Elliott.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
The Manufacture of Impermeable Hats in Imitation of Leghorn
and Straw.
I, FREDERICK JOHN ELLIOTT, of 12 and 13 Barbican, in the City of London,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, which has been
communicated to me from abroad by Mathias and Co., of 165 Boulevard de la
Villette, Paris, France, Manufacturers, and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described aud ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
Imitation straw and leghorn hats worn by ladies and children generally, and by

page_text: gentlemen in summer only, are usually made of fine wood strips woven or plaited ;
such hats being known in the trade as chip hats; they are dyed to the desired
colour, then pressed and afterwards varnished by a spirit varnish to preserve them
temporarily from the action of the weather and rain. Such hats in a short time
however lose their shape, the crowns and bodies crack and split, and the brim
becomes supple.
Now the object of this invention is to prepare hats in imitation of straw and
leghorn by employing a stiff linen fabric such as buckram, shaping it on a dummy,
then coating it with a composition inside and out, next waterproofing the composition,
then submitting the hat to hydraulic pressure in moulds etched with straw or
leghorn pattern or in cast moulds, securing a wire in the edge of the brim, and
finally surface glossing with powdered brimstone.
Hats thus made retain their shape while in wear, they are not inclined to crack
or split, are exceedingly light in weight, are weatherproof and waterproof, and
there is no tendency for the brim to separate from the body.
As an addition, the edge of the brim by the inclosure of a wire or cane is kept
sufficiently stiff, and if accidentally bent can easily be caused to resume its shape.
"
To carry this invention into practice, I employ a stiff fabric, say buckram which
I cut and make up approximately to the desired contour of a hat. The "shape
is then coated on both sides with gilders size, gelatine, or other glutinous body
with which is mixed a suitable quantity of kaolin, zinc white, or the like forming a
compound, to which a yellow tint can be given by a suitable colour (earthy or
other), the shape thus coated is then subjected to hydraulic, water bag, or other
powerful press to give the imprint of the mould or moulds previously prepared to
the pattern of plaited straw or leghorn,
"
The " shape can be further pressed to smooth down any irregularities and be
afterwards subjected to treatment by parafine, in benzine, or the equivalent, the
shape" can then be heated in a stove or vessel and afterwards exposed for the
volatile spirit to pass away.
66
The edge wire or cane can be arranged in an overlap in the edge of the brim
and sewn in place to enable said brim to be stiffened and to retain its shape.
The hat thus made is rubbed over with powdered brimstone to give it a finish.
Benzine has been mentioned but spirits of wine, methylated spirit, benzol, toluol,
xylol, cumol, essence of turpentine, or other available spirit will answer, and
although parafine is referred to, any kind of animal wax or vegetable wax can be
substituted.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
1. In the manufacture of impermeable hats in imitation of straw and leghorn,
blocking a linen fabric to shape, coating same with a compound consisting of
glutinous matter kaulin, or its equivalent, pressing such coated shape in impression
moulds by hydraulic power, impregnating the exterior with parafine to waterproof
the compound, enclosing a wire in overlap of brim, and finally glossing with
powdered brimstone, substantially as specified.
2. As a process for making impermeable hats in imitation of leghorn and straw,
the con-ecutive treatment of a linen body by shaping it, coating both sides evenly
with a compound, covering the compound with parafine and volatile spirit, heating
for impregnation purposes, blocking in impression moulds, sewing down overlap to
enclose wire stiffener, rubbing and glossing with brimstone in powder, all in the
manner and for the purpose substantially as specified.
The 20th day of August 1895
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166 Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Frederick John Elliott.