IMPROVEMENTS IN AND CONNECTED WITH SEWING MACHINES, THE PRODUCTION OF NEW STITCHES OR NEW WORK IN SEWING MACHINES, AND THE COMBINATION WITH SEWING MACHINES OF A CUTTING MACHINE FOR CUTTING CLOTH. CALICO, WOOD, OR OTHER MATERIAL.
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Mabson, of Norwood, in the County of
Surrey, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND CONNECTED WITH
SEWING MACHINES, THE PRODUCTION OF NEW STITCHES OR NEW WORK
IN SEWING MACHINES, AND THE COMBINATION WITH SEWING MACHINES OF
A CUTTING MACHINE FOR CUTTING CLOTH. CALICO, WOOD, OR OTHER
MATERIAL.
Sealed the 7th December 1869, and dated the 9th June 1869
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Mabson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
9th June 1869.
AND
I, JOHN MABSON, of Norwood, in the County of Surrey, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
CONNECTED WITH SEWING MACHINES, THE PRODUCTION OF NEW STITCHES OR NEW
WORK IN SEWING MACHINES, AND THE COMBINATION WITH SEWING MACHINES OF A
CUTTING MACHINE FOR CUTTING CLOTH, CALICO, WOOD, OR OTHER MATERIAL," to
be as follows:-
My Invention comprises various improvements in and additions to
sewing machines, and in the hemmers, trimmers, creasers, frillers and
[Price 8d.]

page_text: gatherers, binders, embroiderers, cabinets, and other devices, and
apparatus of sewing machines; also the production of new stitches or
new work in sewing machines; also the economical combination with a
sewing machine of a cutting machine for cutting cloth, calico, and other
material to be afterwards sewn or embroidered in the sewing machine,
or for cutting wood or other material, whereby I obtain the two machines
at little more than the cost of one.
The first part of my Invention relates to an adjustable hemmer and
feller for sewing machines. I attach to the ordinary hemmer a slide of
inverted shape, which is adjustable by a slot and screw, so that it can
be moved to give the width required for hemming or felling.
The next part relates to a combined quilting gauge and trimmer for
sewing machines. The quilting gauge is similar to that described in
the Specification of my Patent of 21st May 1867, No. 1516; but I make
an additional slot in each slide for the braid to pass through for trimming
whereby I form a combined quilting gauge and trimmer.
The next part also relates to a combined quilting gauge and trimmer.
To a metal cloth presser foot is fastened a cross piece on which a foot
slide is adjustable by a slot and screw. The foot slide (one or more of
which may be used) has the upper part projecting more over the cross
piece than the under part, which is made so as to clear the presser foot
underneath when sliding on the cross piece. The foot slides being
adjustable on the cross piece for various widths of braid when trimming,
and for various widths when quilting, they constitute a combined quilt-
ing gauge and trimmer.
The next part relates to a tucking gauge, a creaser, a friller ànd
gatherer, and a binder for sewing machines. The tucking gauge is
attached to the cloth plate by a slot and screw so as to be adjustable.
I form the gauge with a projecting piece made to overhang the cloth
plate, so as keep the gauge on the square and to prevent its being
moved on its fastening screw. The creaser is attached to a slide by
a pin and is gauged; it is worked by an elastic cord attached to the
needle arm; it is made of steel, and there is a spring behind the pin
for the purpose of throwing the front or hammer on the cloth in order
to crease it on the lip at the end of the slide. The slide is fastened to
the tucking gauge by a screw, and is adjustable in a groove in the
tucking gauge. Under the lip of the slide is a piece of vulcanized
rubber or other suitable material to prevent noise from the striking

page_text: of the hammer or creaser.
and screw.
The friller and gatherer is attached to the
tucking gauge in the same way as the creaser. The slide under which
the cloth to be gathered passes is adjustable on the gauge by a slot
The cloth not to be gathered passes between the slide and
a plate fastened to the slide by a pin, and is held sufficiently tight by
pressure put upon it by a screw. The binder, which may be made to
be attached to the tucking gauge in the same way as the creaser, is
herein-after described.
The next part of my Invention relates to an adjustable cloth presser
spring. A pin passes through a hole in the cloth presser arm and is
secured to the cloth presser spring, the fore part of which rests on the
collar of the cloth presser, by means of a screw at the hinder part of the
spring a greater or less pressure may be put on the cloth presser as
required. A boss may be cast on the cloth presser arm for the pin to
pass through.
A further improvement in connection with the cloth presser arm con-
sists of a projecting ledge or shelf cast or fastened on the arm; there are
two or more upright pins on the ledge on which the braider and other
arms may be dropped, so that the use of a screw to fasten them is dis-
pensed with and more room is given for the work to pass under the cloth
presser arm. Further room is gained by the removal of the boss or
projection for the screw.
The next part of my Invention relates to the needle plate. The cloth
plate is grooved on one side, bevelled on the other, and square at the
end. One side of the needle plate is formed to take into the groove of
the cloth plate, and the other side is bevelled to rest on the bevel of the
cloth plate.
The needle plate is held down by a lever being turned
under the cloth plate; the square at the end prevents the needle plate
slide from being moved forwards by the feed bar.
The next part relates to the break of sewing machines to prevent the
backward movement of the wheel and the reversing of the machine.
To the lower end of the break a string is attached, which passes through
a loop in the table and is weighted, so that when the wheel is reversed
it draws back the break at once and stops the wheel. Instead of the
weight being attached in this manner the lower end of the break may
be weighted for the same purpose.
The next part relates to an adjustable belt tightener for sewing
machines. The belt is tightened as required by levers, which are thrown
forward against the belt by screwing up another lever. The levers are

page_text: connected by hinges to a rod, which is fastened to the table of the
machine.
Another mode of tightening the belt is by means of a wheel movable
by a bolt in a slot formed in a rod, which is fastened to the table.
The next part relates to an extension bag platform and supporting
leaf for sewing machines. A bag and extension platform combined are
hinged to the table of the machine, and are held up when required by
bolts or brackets. A leaf is attached to the table by hinges, and is like-
wise held up when required by bolts or brackets; it is intended to bear
up heavy work, and is made concave in front to allow the operator to sit
up to the machine. The bag or extension platform is for holding
cottons, threads, and other articles; it has holes into which wires having
flanges at bottom are inserted to hold reels.
The next part of the Invention consists in making the cloth plate to
overhang the sides of the standards of the machine, in order to prevent
the dust entering the machine and the oil spurting out.
The next part consists of a thread guard to prevent the work catch-
ing the thread and drawing it off the reel; this guard is fastened to the
rocker by a screw, or it may be cast on the rocker.
The next part of my Invention relates to the production in sewing
machines of a new stitch or new work which I call the zebra stitch. I
place thread guides upon and above the thread guides described in the
Specification of my Patent of 1867, before referred to, in order to
produce a different class of embroidery, for by using finer threads
through the upper guides than through the under a stripe may be pro-
.duced, say, black and buff, black showing down the middle and buff on
each side.
The next part of my Invention relates to an embroiderer, and to the
production by means of the same of the zebra stitch, and other new
stitches or new work. I will first describe the several parts of which
the embroiderer is composed, and then explain the manner in which
they work. A lever is attached to the rocker by a screw; an arm is
cast on the left standard of the rocker; the stand for the reels is on the
projecting ledge or shelf herein-before described; a rod connects the
lever above mentioned to the crank of a shaft, the two ends of which
rest respectively in the arm above mentioned and in a projecting arm;
the cranked shaft carries a fly wheel and a cylinder, which is open at one

page_text: end to the right; the circular part of this cylinder forms a cam; there is
a cog wheel on the cranked shaft gearing into a larger wheel on one end
of a shaft, which passes through the projecting arm above mentioned,
and carries a cam at its other end; there is a hook or pin on the pro-
jecting arm from which hang pendants, which are formed with holes or
thread guides, an elastic cord is passed round the pendants.
The working of the embroiderer is as follows:-The lever, when the
sewing machine is at work, is moved to and fro by the rocker, and the
rod which connects the lever to the cranked shaft causes this shaft to
revolve; each revolution of the cog wheel on this shaft imparts a partial
revolution to the other cog wheel, and to the cam on the shaft of this
wheel, so that the pendants or thread guides (which are opened by the
cam and closed by the elastic cord) shall cross at one stitch and recross
at the next, and so that the cylindrical cam revolving once for each
stitch, and in right time shall press against the pendants and move them
to the right to ensure the passing of the embroidery threads under the
point (or points when a two-pointed needle is used) of the needle and
to the right of the same, whereby at each descent of the needle the
embroidery threads are properly secured or stitched to the fabric which
is being embroidered. The stitch made by the use of a two pointed
needle, through each point of which a thread is passed, and each having
its own tension is a new stitch, and I term it the diamond embroidery
stitch; it may be used for overcasting, edging, and button holes. By
having holes ranged one above the other in the pendants I produce the
zebra stitch with one needle.
Another arrangement of embroiderer to produce the same stitches is as
follows: A cam is placed above the cam of the embroiderer described
in the Specification of my Patent of 1867, before referred to. The thread
guides turn on pins fastened to levers below, other levers are con-
nected with the thread guides, and are opened by the cam and closed
by an elastic cord; the lower levers are also closed by an elastic cord and
are opened by the lower cam. When the lower cam opens the lower
levers the levers of the thread guides are thrown together by their
elastic cord, and the thread guides are thus thrown further back so as
to draw the embroidery threads well under the point or points of the
needle and to the right of the same, so that at each descent of the needle
the embroidery threads may be properly secured. When, on the other
hand, the lower cam allows the lower levers to be closed by their elastic

page_text: cord the upper cam throws open the thread guide levers, and thus carries
the thread guides well round to bring the embroidery threads under the
point or points of the needle and to the right. To produce the zebra
stitch with this embroiderer, thread guides placed one above the other,
as before described, are employed.
Another arrangement of embroiderer to produce the same stitches is
as follows: A cranked shaft has rotary motion imparted to it by a rod
connecting it with a lever attached to the rocker, as in one of the
embroiderers previously described. The cog wheel on this shaft gears
as before into another cog wheel; this second cog wheel makes half a
revolution for each revolution of the cranked shaft. A cam on the shaft
of the second wheel acts upon levers, and for each revolution it makes
moves them forward and again backward, thereby causing the levers to
produce the crossing of the embroidery threads at one stitch, and their
recrossing at the next by opening the thread guides and again closing
them. A foot depending from the projecting arm and entering between
the levers ensures their proper working.
The next part of the Invention relates to a binder for sewing machines,
which may be made separately or to combine with the tucking gauge, as
herein-before described. The position of the binder is adjustable by a
slot and screw. I attach uprights to the bed plate of the binder with
a cross piece or bar, through which screws pass to press on the braid
catches or guides. These catches are adjustable for various widths of
braid by means of a slide with a slot and screw, the catches being
secured to a cross piece attached to this slide. I form the bed plate of
the binder with a projecting piece, which overhangs the cloth plate and
prevents the binder turning on its fastening screw and out of the square.
A modification of this binder consists in pressing the catches or braid
guides upon the braid or cloth to be stitched by tipping forward by
means of a screw the cross piece which is attached to the slide of the
braid guides.
The next part of my Invention relates to sewing machine cabinets.
According to one arrangement the two halves of the door of the cabinet
are each divided vertically into sections, the sections being hinged so as
to open inwards upon one another: the first section is, say, convex and
turns back upon the second section which is concave. The door is thus
not only ornamental but is packed or folded out of the way when the
cabinet is open. A lid closes over the machine in the ordinary way.

page_text: Another arrangement consists in closing the cabinet by a Venetian or
revolving shutter, which is drawn up when required to get to the
treadles of the sewing machine. Uprights are hinged to the sides of
the cabinet, and have bolts which pass through holes in the lower part
of the Venetian to prevent its being drawn up when the uprights are
locked.
The next part of my Invention relates to noiseless cams for sewing
machines. I have a number of cams each having a different throw, and
being numbered to show the length of stitch. I attach the one required
to the end of the spindle or tail pin of the machine by a screw or a nut,
which has a milled-edge collar to allow of its being readily turned.
The end of the spindle and the aperture of the cam to fit thereon are
of irregular form to ensure the cam being properly placed. As the cam
revolves by hugging the feed all round the feed is rendered noiseless.
The next part of my Invention consists in combining a cutting
machine with a sewing machine to be worked when the sewing machine
is out of gear, whereby I am able to cut cloth, calico, or other material
to be afterwards sewn or embroidered in the sewing machine. The same
driving mechanism and the same frame and stand serve for both
machines, so that the cutting machine can be added to the sewing
machine at little extra cost. The cutting machine is brought into
position by being secured to the work-table of the sewing machine, the
knife being carried through an aperture in the table secured in jaws or
holders, and worked up and down in any convenient manner. By sub-
stituting a fret saw for the knife wood or other hard material may be
cut
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Mabson in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 9th December 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME,
MABSON, of Norwood, in the County of Surrey, send greeting.
I, JOHN
WHEREAS He: most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of June, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,

page_text: give and grant unto me, the said John Mabson, Her special licence
that I, the said John Mabson, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said John Mabson, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN AND CONNECTED WITH SEWING MACHINES, THE PRODUCTION OF NEW STITCHES
OR NEW WORK IN SEWING MACHINES, AND
MACHINES OF A CUTTING MACHINE FOR
OR OTHER MATERIAL," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said John Mabson, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
THE COMBINATION WITH SEWING
CUTTING CLOTH: CALICO, WOOD,
NOW KNOW YE that I the said John Mabson, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, that is to say:-
My Invention comprises various improvements in and additions to
sewing machines, and in the hemmers, trimmers, creasers, frillers, and
gatherers, binders embroiderers, cabinets, and other apparatus and
devices of sewing machines; also the production of new stitches or new
work in sewing machines; also the economical combination with a
sewing machine of a cutting machine for cutting cloth, calico, and other
material to be afterwards sewn or embroidered in the sewing machine, or
for cutting wood or other material, whereby I obtain the two machines
at little more than the cost of one.
The first part of my Invention relates to an adjustable hemmer and
feller for sewing machines, and is represented in Figure 1 of the annexed
Drawings. I attach to the ordinary hemmer 1 a slide 2 of inverted
shape, which is adjustable by a slot 4 and screw 3, so that it can be
moved to give the width required for hemming or felling. The slide 2

page_text: runs in a groove in the hemmer. In some cases I also add a piece 5, as
seen in Figure 1", which is curved so as to pass over and under the
slide 2, and form a guide for the fabric; this piece 5 is adjustable by the
same screw 3.
I claim the employment of the slide 2 adjustable in the manner and
for the purpose described.
The next part of my Invention relates to a combined quilting gauge
and trimmer for sewing machines, and is represented in Figure 2. The
quilting gauge is similar to that described in the Specification of my
Patent of 21st May 1867, No. 1516, but I make an additional slot 1 in
each slide for the braid to pass through for trimming, whereby I form a
combined quilting gauge and trimmer.
I claim the combination of a quilting gauge and a trimmer, substan-
tially in the manner described.
The next part also relates to a combined quilting gauge and trimmer,
and is represented in Figure 3. To a metal cloth presser foot 1 is
fastened a cross piece 2, on which a foot slide 3 (shown separately in
Figure 3") is adjustable by a slot and screw 4. The foot slide (one or
more of which may be used) has the upper part projecting more over the
cross piece than the under part, which is made so as to clear the presser
foot underneath when sliding on the cross piece. The foot slides being
adjustable on the cross piece for various widths of braid when trimming,
and for various widths when quilting, constitute a combined quilting
gauge and trimmer.
I claim the employment of a foot slide (one or more) having the
upper part projecting more over the cross piece than the under part,
as and for the purpose described; also forming a combined quilting
gauge and trimmer by employing foot slides adjustable on a cross piece,
as and for the purpose described.
The next part of my Invention relates to a tucking gauge, a creaser or
marker, a friller and gatherer, and a binder for sewing machines, and is
represented in Figure 4. The tucking gauge 2 is attached to the cloth
plate 1 by a slot 4 and screw 3, so as to be adjustable. I form the
gauge with a projecting piece 5 made to overhang the cloth plate, so as
to keep the gauge on the square, and to prevent its being moved on its
fastening screw 3. The creaser or marker 6, 6, is attached to a slide 7
by a pin 9, and is gauged at 10; it is worked by an elastic cord 11
1

page_text: attached to the needle arm, as shown in Figure 15; it is made of steel,
and there is a spring behind the pin 9 for the purpose of throwing the
front or hammer on the cloth in order to mark it or to crease it on the
lip at the end of the slide 7. The slide 7 is fastened to the tucking
gauge 2 by a screw 8, and is adjustable in a groove 12 in the tucking
gauge. Under the lip of the slide 7 is a piece of vulcanized rubber or
other suitable material to prevent noise from the striking of the hammer
or creaser. The friller and gatherer is attached to the tucking gauge in
the same way as the creaser. The slide 13, under which the cloth to be
gathered passes, is adjustable on the gauge by a slot 17 and screw 18.
The cloth not to be gathered passes between the slide 13 and a plate 14
fastened to the slide by a pin 16, and is held sufficiently tight by
pressure put upon it by a screw 15. The binder, which may be made to
be attached to the tucking gauge in the same way as the creaser or
marker, is herein-after described with reference to Figure 21.
I claim as new in the tucking gauge the projecting piece 5 made to
overhang the cloth plate to prevent its moving out of the square.
I also claim as new the mode described of attaching the creaser or
marker, the friller and gatherer, and the binder to the tucking gauge.
I also claim in the creaser or marker the mode in which the hammer:
is thrown upon the cloth.
I also claim the friller and gatherer as new, as described.
The next part of my Invention relates to an adjustable cloth presser
spring, and is represented in Figure 5. A pin 1 passes through a hole
in the cloth presser arm, and is secured to the cloth presser spring 2, 2, 1
the fore part of which rests on the collar 4 of the cloth presser; by
means of a screw 3 at the hinder part of the spring a greater or less
pressure may be put on the cloth presser, as required. A boss may be
cast on the cloth presser arm for the pin to pass through.
I claim as new the mode by which the spring is fastened to the arm,
and by which the pressure on the cloth presser is increased or lessened.
A further improvement which I claim in connection with the cloth
presser arm consists of a projecting ledge or shelf 5 cast or fastened on
the arm.
There are two or more upright pins on the ledge on which the
braider and other arms may be dropped, so that the use of a screw to
fasten them on is dispensed with, and more room is given for the work

page_text: to pass under the cloth presser arm; further room is gained by the
removal of the boss or projection for the screw.
The next part of my Invention relates to the needle plate, and is
represented in Figures 6 and 7. The cloth plate, Figure 6, is grooved on
one side, bevelled on the other, and square at the end. One side of the
needle plate (shown inverted at Figure 7) is formed to take into the
groove of the cloth plate, and the other side is bevelled to rest on
the bevel of the cloth plate. The needle plate is held down by a button 1
being turned under the cloth plate; the square at the end prevents the
needle plate slide from being moved forwards by the feed bar.
I claim the mode described of forming the needle plate and fitting it
to the cloth plate.
The next part relates to the break of sewing machines to prevent the
backward movement of the wheel and the reversing of the machine.
This part is shown in Figure 8. To the lower end of the break 3 a string
is attached, which passes through a loop in the table, and is weighted at
4, so that when the wheel 2 is reversed it draws back the break at once,
and stops the wheel. Instead of the weight being attached in this
manner the lower end of the break may be weighted for the same
purpose. With the ordinary break a frictional surface has to be
depended upon to bring back the break. 1 is the table.
I claim as new the weighting of the lower end of the break, as described,
to ensure its being brought back to prevent a reversal of the machine..
The next part relates to an adjustable belt tightener for sewing
machines, and is represented in Figure 9. The belt 2 is tightened as
required by levers 3, 3, which are thrown forward against the belt by
screwing up at 4 a plate 5. The levers are connected by hinges 6, 6, to
1 shows the band
a rod 7, which is fastened to the table of the machine.
wheel. Or the levers may pass the belt, as shewn at 8 in dotted lines,
and be curved inwards, so as to bear against the outside of the belt when
the plate 5 is screwed up. Figure 9* shows a modification in which the
levers are moved by a rack motion. 2 is the belt, the two sides of which
are each embraced by a lever of ☐ shape. The two parallel sides 3, 3, of
each lever are formed with rack teeth, as shown, and the third side 4
consists of a roller to bear against the belt. Between the two levers and
gearing into the rack teeth of both of them are pinions 9 on a spindle 5,
which may be rotated by a handle 10. As the handle is turned to the

page_text: right the rack levers are drawn together and pressure is put on the belt
11 is a paul to prevent a reverse movement. The frame 12, in which
the levers 3 move, is formed with lugs 13 to enable it to be secured to
the table.
Another mode of tightening the belt (represented in Fig. 10) is, by
means of a wheel 3, movable by a bolt 4 in a slot 5 formed in a rod 6
which is fastened to the table.
I claim as new the modes described of tightening the belt of sewing
machines.
The next part of my Invention relates to an extension bag platform
and a supporting leaf for sewing machines, and is represented in
Figure 11. A bag and extension platform combined, marked 3, are
hinged to the table 1 of the machine, and are held up when required by
bolts or brackets; 2 is the platform. A leaf 9 is attached to the table
by hinges, and is likewise held up when required by bolts or brackets.
It is intended to bear up heavy work, and is made concave in front, as
shown, to allow the operator to sit up to the machine. The bag or
extension platform, shown separately in Figure 12, is for holding cottons,
threads, and other articles. It has holes 6, 6, into which are inserted
wires having flanges at bottom to hold reels, as shown in Figure 13.
I claim as new the bag or extension platform, as described, also the
supporting leaf, as described.
The next part of the Invention, represented in Figure 14, consists in
making the cloth plate to overhang the sides of the standards of the
machine in order to prevent the dust entering the machine and the oil
spurting out.
I claim as new the construction of the cloth plate in this manner.
The next part, shown in Figure 15, consists of a thread guard to pre-
vent the work catching the thread and drawing it off the reel. 1 is the
needle arm; 2 is the thread guard fastened to the rocker by a screw 3,
or it may be cast on the rocker; 4 is the thread.
I claim as new the construction and employment of a thread guard,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
The next part of my Invention relates to the production in sewing
machines of a new stitch or new work which I call the zebra stitch. I
place thread guides represented at 1, 1, in Figure 16, upon and above

page_text: the thread guides 2, 2, described in the Specification of my Patent of
1867, before referred to, in order to produce a different class of
embroidery, for by using finer threads through the upper guides than
through the under a stripe may be produced, say, black and buff, black
showing down the middle and buff on each side.
I claim the production of this new stitch or new work as a new article
of manufacture.
I also claim the mechanism for producing the same, as described.
The next part of my Invention relates to an embroiderer and to the
production by means of the same of the zebra stitch and other new
stitches or new work. I will first describe the several parts of which
the embroiderer is composed, and then explain the manner in which
they work. A lever 1 (see Figures 17 and 18) is attached at 2 to the
rocker by a screw; an arm 3 is cast on the left standard of the rocker;
the stand for the reels is on the projecting ledge or shelf 5, herein-
before described with reference to Figure 5; a rod 6 connects the lever 1
to the crank 7 of a shaft 8, the two ends of which rest respectively in
the arm 3 and in a projecting arm 15 (see Fig. 18); the cranked shaft 8
carries a fly wheel 9 and a cylinder 10, which is open at one end to the
right; the circular part of this cylinder forms a cam; there is a cog
wheel 11 on the cranked shr ft 8 gearing into a larger wheel 12 on one
end of a shaft, which passes through the projecting arm 15 and carries
a cam 13 at its other end; there is a hook or pin 14 on the projecting
arm 15, from which hang pendants 17, which are formed with holes or
thread guides; an elastic cord 18 is passed round the pendants; 19 are
projections on the lever 1 to fit on the rocker.
The working of the embroiderer is as follows:-The lever 1 when the
sewing machine is at work is moved to and fro by the rocker, and the
rod 6, which connects the lever to the cranked shaft 8, causes this shaft
to revolve. Each revolution of the cog wheel 11 on this shaft imparts
a half or partial revolution to the other cog wheel 12 and to the cam 13
on the shaft of this wheel, so that the pendants or thread guides 17
(which are opened by the cam 13 and closed by the elastic cord 18)
shall cross at one stitch and re-cross at the next, and so that the cylin-
drical cam 10 revolving once for each stitch and in right time shall
press against the pendants and move them to the right to ensure the
passing of the embroidery threads under the point (or points when a

page_text: two-pointed needle is used) of the needle, and to the right of the same,
whereby at each descent of the needle the embroidery threads are
properly secured or stitched to the fabric which is being embroidered.
The stitch made by the use of a two-pointed needle, through each point
of which a thread is passed, and each having its own tension, is a new
stitch, and I term it the diamond embroidery stitch; it may be used for
overcasting, edging, and button holes. By having holes ranged one
above the other in the pendants I produce the zebra stitch with one
needle.
I claim these stitches or work produced in the manner described as
new articles of manufacture.
I also claim the embroiderer constructed substantially as described.
Another arrangement of embroiderer to produce the same stitches is
represented in Figure 19, and is as follows:-A cam 1 is placed above
the cam of the embroiderer described in the Specification of my Patent
of 1867, before referred to. The thread guides turn on pins 2, 2,
fastened to levers 6, 6, below; others levers 3, 3, are connected with the
thread guides, and are opened by the cam 1 and closed by an elastic
cord passed over pins 4, 4; the lower levers 6, 6, are also closed by an
elastic cord 5, 5, and are opened by the lower cam. When the lower
cam opens the lower levers 6, 6, the levers of the thread guides are
thrown together by their elastic cord, and the thread guides are thus
thrown further back so as to draw the embroidery threads well under
the point or points of the needle, and to the right of the same, so that
at each descent of the needle the embroidery threads may be properly
secured. When, on the other hand, the lower cam allows the lower
levers 6, 6, to be closed by their elastic cord 5, 5, the upper cam 1 throws
open the thread guide levers, and thus carries the thread guides well
round to bring the embroidery threads under the point or points of the
needle and to the right, as shown in Figure 20. To produce the zebra
stitch with this embroiderer thread guides placed one above the other,
as before described with reference to Figure 16, are employed.
I claim as new the embroiderer constructed substantially as described
with reference to Figures 19 and 20.
Another arrangement of embroiderer to produce the same stitches is
represented in Figures 18° and 18b, and is as follows:-A cranked shaft 8
passing through the arm or bearing 15 has rotary motion imparted to it

page_text: by a rod 6 connecting it with a lever attached to the rocker, as in the
embroiderer represented in Figure 17. The cog wheel 11 on this shaft
gears, as before, into another cog wheel 12; this second cog wheel makes
half a revolution for each revolution of the cranked shaft 8; a cam 21
on the shaft of the wheel 12 acts upon levers 22, 23, and for each
revolution it makes moves them forward and again backward, thereby
causing the levers to produce the crossing of the embroidery threads
at one stitch and their re-crossing at the next by opening the thread
guides 26, as seen in Figure 18", and again closing them, as seen in
Figure 18b A foot 27 depending from the projecting arm 15 and
entering between the levers ensures their proper working. 24, 24, are
the pins to which the levers 23 are connected, and 25 the pins by which
the thread levers or guides are secured to the cloth presser foot.
I claim as new the embroiderer constructed substantially as described
with reference to Figures 18" and 18.
The next part of the Invention relates to a binder for sewing machines,
which may be made separately or to combine with the tucking gauge, as
herein-before described with reference to Figure 4; this binder is shown
in Figure 21. 1 is the cloth plate; 2, the bed plate of the binder;
3, the screw to fasten the binder to the cloth plate, and 4, the slot by
which the binder is made adjustable. I attach uprights 5, 5, to the bed
plate 2 with a cross piece or bar, through which screws 12 pass to press
on the braid catches or guides 6, 6. These catches are adjustable for
various widths of braid by means of a slide 7, with a slot 8 and screw 9,
the catches being secured to a cross piece 11 attached to this slide. I
form the bed plate of the binder with a projecting piece 2*, which over-
hangs the cloth plate and prevents the binder turning on its fastening
screw and out of the square.
I claim as new the projecting piece, which prevents the binder turning
out of the square.
I also claim as new the uprights, with screws to press down the braid
catches or guides according to varying thicknesses of fabric to be
stitched.
I also claim the manner in which the catches are made adjustable for
various widths of braid.
A modification of this binder, represented in Figure 21°, consists in
pressing the catches or braid guides upon the braid or cloth to be

page_text: stitched by tipping forward by means of a screw 12 the cross piece 11,
which is attached to the slide 7 of the braid guides.
The next part of my Invention relates to sewing machine cabinets.
According to one arrangement, represented in Figure 22, the two halves
of the door of the cabinet are each divided vertically into sections 1, 2, 3,
the sections being hinged to each other so as to open inwards upon one
another. The first section 1 is, say, convex, and turns back upon the
second section 2, which is concave, and section 2 turns back upon
section 3, which is convex. The door is thus not only ornamental, but
is packed or folded out of the way when the cabinet is open. A lid 4
closes over the machine in the ordinary way.
I claim as new the mode of constructing the doors of sewing machine
cabinets, as described, so that the sections composing the same fold
inwards, as explained.
Another arrangement, represented in Figure 23, consists in closing
the cabinet by a Venetian or revolving shutter 1, which is drawn up
when required to bet to the treadles of the sewing machine. Uprights
are hinged at 2, 2, to the sides of the cabinet, and have bolts, which pass
through holes in the lower part of the Venetian to prevent its being
drawn up when the uprights are locked.
I claim as new the adaptation of a Venetian or revolving shutter to a
sewing machine cabinet, as described, together with the mode described
of fastening the same.
I
The next part of my Invention relates to noiseless cams for sewing
machines (see Figure 24). I have a number of cams each having a
different throw, and being numbered to show the length of stitch.
attach the one required (marked 2 in the Drawing) to the end of the
spindle or tail pin 1 of the machine by a screw 4 or a nut, which has a
milled edged collar 6 to allow of its being readily turned. The end of
the spindle 1 and the aperture of the cam to fit thereon are of irregular
form to ensure the cam being properly placed. 7 is the spindle, on
which the bobbin is filled. As the cam revolves by hugging the feed all
round the feed is rendered noiseless.
I claim as new the employment of a number of cams each having a
different throw, and being numbered to shew the length of stitch, and
being attached substantially in the manner described.
The next part of my Invention consists in combining a cutting

page_text: The
machine with a sewing machine to be worked when the sewing machine
is out of gear, whereby I am able to cut cloth, calico, or other material
to be afterwards sewn or embroidered in the sewing machine.
same driving mechanism and the same frame and stand serve for both
machines, so that the cutting machine can be added to the sewing
machine at little extra cost. The cutting machine is brought into
position by being secured to the work-table of the sewing machine,
the knife being carried through an aperture in the table secured in
jaws or holders and worked up and down in any convenient manner.
By substituting a fret saw for the knife wood or other hard material
may be out.
The manner in which I prefer to combine a cutting machine with a
sewing machine is represented in front elevation in Figure 25 and in
side elevation in Figure 26. a is the frame of the combined machine;
b, the treadles; c, the connecting rod; d, the crank; e, the driving shaft;
f, the fly wheel; g, the pulley for driving the sewing machine; h, the
sewing machine; i, the table, and the platform; l is a box to which
the platform forms the lid; m is a bracket carried out at the back of
the machine and to which are connected an upper and a lower spring
arm marked respectively o and p; the other ends of these spring arms
carry holders or jaws for holding the cutter q, which is fastened therein
by tightening screws r, r; s is a roller (preferably clothed with india-
rubber or other suitable yielding material) mounted excentrically on
a pin carried across a slot in the lower spring arm p; the roller s rests
on the periphery of the fly wheel, and the rotary motion of the latter
is therefore transmitted thereto. Owing to the excentricity of the roller
s an up-and-down motion is imparted to the lower arm p, and as the
movable ends of the two arms are rigidly connected by the cutter q the
The roller s being of
cutter and the upper arm receive a like motion.
much smaller diameter than the fly wheel it follows that the cutter
receives several up-and-down motions for every revolution of the fly
wheel. The table i is slotted for the roller s to work through, and the
platform or lid k is likewise slotted to give passage to the cutter q.
When it is desired to work the sewing machine only the cutter q is
freed from the upper jaws and lowered into the box, and the roller s
is lifted clear of the fly wheel by placing any convenient article, such
as a rolled up piece of washleather, under the arm p to raise the same.
When it is desired to work the cutting machine only the belt of the

page_text: sewing machine is taken off the pulley g. The upper arm o when the
cutter is not attached thereto is free to be turned on the bracket m so
as to allow the lid k to be lifted.
I do not limit myself to the particular manner described of working
the cutting machine as other modes of working it might be adopted;
what I claim as this part of my Invention is, the combination of a
sewing machine and a cutting machine, substantially as described, such
combination forming a new article of manufacture.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Mabson, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Seventh day of December, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-nine.
Witness,
J. C. MEWBURN,
Patent Agent,
172, Fleet Street,
London.
JOHN MABSON. (L.S.)