CERTAIN IM- PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN MACHINERY, APPARATUS, AND MATERIALS TO BE EMPLOYED IN SUCH MANUFacture
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of the Albany, Piccadilly, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR
OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN MACHINERY, APPARATUS, AND
MATERIALS TO BE EMPLOYED IN SUCH MANUFacture."
Sealed the 13th April 1858, and dated the 16th October 1857.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 16th
October 1857.
:
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of the Albany, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER
COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN MACHINERY, APPARATUS, AND MATERIALS TO BE
EMPLOYED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE," to be as follows:-
My Invention relates to an improved machine for pegging boots and shoes,
and consists in so constructing and arranging the machine, that several descrip-
tions or sizes of boots or shoes can be made by the same machine, or with the
addition of other parts to such machine. I effect these improvements partly
as follows:-
I employ circular cams on which I cut or trace the designs of the right or
left boot or shoe, or any number of boots or shoes; these cams being placed upon
shafts or studs are made to actuate levers, and are fitted in bearings and fitted
upon shafts so arranged that they are easily removed from the main part of
the machine and replaced by others. The designs on the cams are conveyed

page_text: or transmitted through the levers to the frame, and other parts containing or
holding the boot or shoe; and in order to increase or decrease the size of the
boot or shoe, or vary the design upon the cams, I change the centre or centres
or relative acting parts of said levers or cams, which will have the effect of
varying the action of the slides, and the frame containing the boot or shoe.
This may be performed by having the centre moveable, or the levers slotted so
as to admit of a free action of another lever or slide connected with the cams
or parts to be moved; and it also consists in making the slides or parts by
which the rising motion is obtained, cylindrical and compound, and in placing
the parts for obtaining the lifting motion and other portions connected there-
with, together with some of the cams, upon one plate or carriage common to
the several parts, and which is moveable and subject to the breadth and
length travel or either; and it also refers to placing the cylindrical or lifting
slides within the circumference of the lifting cam, and the ratchet through
which motion is communicated to it; and it also refers to an improved mode
of feeding or removing the ratchets, and which are performed by means of
'moveable platforms or surfaces of sufficient size, so as to provide for the
differential motions imparted through the cams; and it also refers to the
application of grooved cams to the lifting and other parts of the machine, and
to certain improved arrangements for obtaining the differential angle motions
of the shoe frame and parts connected therewith by means of slotted levers or
slides, and slotted roller guides for retaining the rollers which take into the
'grooves of the cams so as to keep them in a given line in relation to the
centre during the action of the grooved cams upon such rollers, and to com-
bining such parts or slotted levers with a ball and socket joint or motion.
Another head of my Invention relates to an improvement in lasts, and
consists of three distinct parts which are as follows:→
First, I make holes in the last rather larger than the heads of the pegs or
fastenings, and at the required angle, and corresponding in number with those
to be inserted in the shoe. The object of this part of my Invention is to
prevent the fastenings becoming fixed in the last, which increases the difficulty
of taking the last out of the shoe.
The second improvement under this head relates to a method and means
for taking the last out of the shoe, which I perform by means of a piece or
slip of metal placed in or on the bottom of the last, one end of which slip or
bottom I cause to be acted upon by a bolt, rod, or lever passing through the last
either in a slot or hole, and in which I sometimes place a fixed nut, so that a
bolt with a corresponding thread upon it is. made to pass through the nut
until it comes in contact with the slip of metal, which will have the effect of

page_text: forcing the last and the shoe sole apart. The bolt or spindle may be placed
in a headstock and caused to revolve so as to pass out and into the nut; I
sometimes groove the lasts instead of the holes, and for the same purpose.
Another part of my Invention consists of an improved mode and means of
strengthening and connecting the sole of a boot or shoe where it is joined to
the heel and other parts, which I effect by inserting any suitable material, but
which I prefer to be of métal beneath the sole, and I rivet the same to the
end of the sole extending beneath the heel of the boot or shoe, and I perforate
the piece of metal so that nails, pegs, or other fastenings may readily pass
through it; by the use of this plate the junction between the sole and heel is
strengthened, and a great saving in the outer sole effected.
. Another part of my Invention consists in compressing the leather fastenings
while in a continuous length, and previous to their being cut into lengths for
pegs, which I effect by passing the same through dies or rollers for that
purpose.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
16th April 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIAN
BERNARD, of the Albany, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twenty-first year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give, and grant unto
me, the said Julian Bernard, Her special license that I, the said Julian
Bernard, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Julian Bernard, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR
THE FEET, AND IN MACHINERY, APPARATUS, AND MATERIALS TO BE EMPLOYED IN SUCH
MANUFACTURE," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Julian
Bernard, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should par
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in

page_text: what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:-
My said Invention relates, first, to certain improvements in that portion of
the machinery or apparatus for pegging boots and shoes, for which British
Letters Patent were granted to me on or about the Fifth day of April, One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, and has reference more particularly to
improvements in the means employed for presenting the boot or shoe under
the pegging mechanism in a proper position, whereby I am enabled to peg
boots and shoes of any required size or shape successively in one machine by
adjusting or charging certain portions of the "describing" mechanism to suit
the size or shape required.
2nd, to a system or mode of providing right and left boots or shoes
alternately from one machine without changing or adjusting its working parts.
3rd, to certain improvements in the construction of lasts for the purpose of
preventing the pegs or other similar fastenings from becoming fixed therein,
and for facilitating the removal or withdrawal of the last from the boot or shoe.
4th, to a method of strengthening the soles of boots and shoes at the
junction of the heel across the waist, whereby a considerable economy of
leather is effected, and a stronger sole produced.
5th, to a system or mode of treating or repairing the continuous lengths of
fastenings used in pegging boots and shoes, previous to such fastenings being
cut into lengths.
And in order that my said Invention may be clearly understood, I
shall now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that
purpose I shall refer to the several Figures on the Sheets of Drawings here-
unto annexed, the same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts
throughout all the corresponding Figures. Figure 1 on Sheet 1 of my
Drawings represents a front sectional elevation of a portion of a machine for
pegging the soles of boots and shoes, shewing my present improvements;
Figure 2 is an elevation of the right-hand side of the machine; Figure 3 on
Sheet 2 of my Drawings represents an elevation of the left-hand side of the
machine; Figure 4 is a detail plan of the cams, levers, and slides for imparting
the angular motions to the boot or shoe; and Figure 5 is a corresponding side

page_text: elevation of the same. The rest of the Figures represent details of this
machine, and other portions of my Invention which I shall herein-after fully
describe and refer to. A is the bed plate of the machine, which carries the
whole of the mechanism, and the rising standards B, for receiving the actual
pegging mechanism; but as such mechanism forms no part of my present
Invention, I have not considered it necessary to illustrate the same in my
Drawings. C is the main driving shaft of the machine, which carries a pinion
gearing into a spin wheel fast on the second motion shaft D; this shaft carries
a mitre wheel which gears into a corresponding mitre keyed on the vertical
cam shaft E of the actual pegging mechanism. At the lower end of this
shaft is a horizontal cam F, (shewn in detail at Figure 6), which at each
revolution elevates the lever G; this lever works on a fixed centre at H, and
is connected at I to a vertical slide K, shewn also in Figures 2 and 3. On
this slide are fitted or formed two tables on platforms L and M, which
respectively actuate, through suitable mechanism herein-after described, the
relative cams for giving the horizontal vertical and angular motions to the
frame N, which carries the boot or shoe. The horizontal traverse for the
length and breadth of the shoe is derived from the pair of circumferentially
grooved cams O and P, which are carried side by side on a short shaft Q, at
the back of the machine, as shewn clearly in Figures 2 and 3; the shaft Q
carries also a ratchet wheel R, for the purpose of giving motion to the cams.
This ratchet wheel is actuated by means of a pall S, carried by the vibrating
lever 'R', which works on the shaft Q as a centre, whilst its free end is
elevated intermittantly by the rising of the platform L on the slide K herein-
before referred to, such platform carrying an adjustable stud or other projection,
which bears against the under side of the lever, so that each time the platform
rises, the lever and pall will be elevated, and the ratchet and cams rotated
short distance. Figure 7 is a detached plan view, on a small scale, of the
levers, which respectively transmit the longitudinal and lateral traverse motions
from the cams to the table supporting the boot or shoe. The longitudinal or
length traverse of the boot or shoe is derived from the cam O, into the groove
of which works a stud or anti-friction roller T, carried by a slide U, which
works freely in a longitudinal direction in the end of the long lever V. This
lever works on a fixed centre at W, and is slotted at its free end v, into which
slotted portion works an adjustable stud or roller w, fixed into a corre-
spondingly slotted bracket, which is bolted to the under side of the longitudinal
slide or travelling platform X; this platform slides along the fixed bed Y in
either direction, according to the motion of the actuating lever V. By
suitably adjusting the position of the stud or roller w in its slot, it is obvious
a

page_text: The free end of this
roller c, which-is con-
arm d of a bell-crank
that a greater or less motion may be imparted to the platform X, according
to the length of the shoe in the machine. The breadth or lateral traverse of
the shoe is derived from the cam P, the groove of which operates upon a stud
or roller and slide, similar to those carried by the lever V, and herein-before
described. A second stud or roller t, carried by the two slides U, works in a
slot in the guide bar u, which is fixed beneath the cams in a direction parallel
to the axes of such cams, the object of which is to maintain the axial lines of
the rollers which work in the cam grooves in the direction of a radial line
drawn from the centre of the cam; this second slide is fitted into the end of a
lever Z, working on a fixed or adjustable centre at a.
lever is slotted at 6, and carries an adjustable stud or
nected with an adjustable slide in the slotted end of the
level (Figure 7) which works on a fixed centre at f. The free arm'g of this
lever carries a stud or roller which works in a slotted piece bolted to the
under side of the table h; this table slides in guides fitted or formed trans-
versely across the platform X, so that the two slides or platformes will move in
directions at right angles to each other. The upper one h of these sliding
tables or platforms carries the principal portion of the mechanism requisite for
imparting the vertical and angular motions to the frame containing the boot
or shoe. The requisite vertical or rising and falling motion of the boot or
shoe is derived from the horizontal circumferentially grooved cam i, which
is fitted in any convenient manner on to the table h, so as to be capable of
rotating freely thereon; this cam is worked by the ratchet wheel j, and pall k,
which latter is connected with a vibrating lever 1; this lever is caused to
advance intermittantly by the action of the bell crank m, carried by the
table h, thereby moving slightly the ratchet and cam; the primary motion of
the bell crank being derived from the rising platform or table L, which as it
rises, strikes the overhanging arm of the bell crank, and causes its upright arni
to impell forward the pall and ratchet, and so partially rotate the cam. To
the table h is fitted a vertical guide n, within which works the slide o,
carrying a stud or roller p, which works in the groove of the cam; the slide o
carries also a roller, which works in the forked free end of the lever q; for
imparting the lifting motions to the vertical cylindrical slide r; this lever
works on a fixed centre at s, carried by a bracket attached to the inner side
of the fixed cylinder t¹, which latter is bolted to the table h, and serves as a
guide for the outer cylinder r to slide upon. The free end of the lifting lever q
is connected with a sliding bracket v¹, working vertically. inside the fixed
cylinder, and forked so as to embrace the transverse rod or spindle w', which
is secured to the outer sliding cylinder, and passed through slots in the inner

page_text: cylinder, as shewn. It is thus obvious that as the cam i rotates, it will
impart a vertical rising and falling motion to the slide o, which is transmitted
through the lever q and slide to 'the cylindrical slide r, which carries the
frame containing the boot or shoe; a¹ is a counterweight for the purpose of
balancing the weight of the outer cylindrical slide and apparatus carried
thereby.
The length and breadth angular motions of the boot or shoe frame are
respectively derived from the two cams y and z, placed side by side with a
ratchet wheel 1, upon the shaft 2, which is carried by the brackets 3, 3,
bolted to the table h. The ratchet wheel 1 for driving these cams is actuated
by the lever and pall 4 (shewn in Figure 6), which receive their motions from
the upper table or platform M of the vertical slide K, herein-before referred
to. The length angular motion is transmitted to the shoe frame from the
cam y by the lever 5, Figures 4 and 5. This lever, with the lever 6 for
giving the breadth angular motion, works on an adjustable centre 7, and each
lever is furnished with a slide 8, carrying a stud or roller 9, guided by
the guide bar 10, in the manner and for the purpose herein-before described
with reference to the levers which transmit the horizontal traversing motions
to the boot or shoe.
The lever 5 works on a centre at 7, and is slotted at its free end, within
which slot is fitted an adjustable slide 12, carrying a stud or roller which
works in the slotted arm 13 of a bell crank lever, having a fixed centre at 14,
supported by a bracket secured to the inner fixed cylinder t. The longer arm
15 of the bell-crank lever is also slotted for the purposes of receiving the
sliding piece 16, through which passes the stem 17 of the bowl 18 carrying the
shoe frame. By suitably adjusting either the working centre of the lever 5 or
the position of the slide 12, any required degree of longitudinal angularity
may be obtained. The lever 6, which works on a centre at 7, transmits the
lateral or breadth angular motion direct to the boot or shoe frame; the slide'
16 (through and within which the stem of the bowl 18 passes and works)
working freely within the slotted free end of this lever. It is thus obvious'
that by the continued movements of the levers 5 and 6, the boot or shoe may
be adjusted to any desired longitudinal or lateral angle. As the actuating
palls of the ratchets which drive the cams for the angular and vertical motions
must of necessity move along with such ratchets by being connected with the
traversing table h, the platforms L and M which actuate the palls, and which
move only vertically, must be made sufficiently large to allow for the length
and breadth travel of the levers carrying the palls, so that such levers will
always be under the influence of the platforms in whatever position the boot'

page_text: or shoe may be. By suitably adjusting or changing the relative positions of
the centres and acting parts of the levers herein-before described, it will be
obvious that a greater or less movement can be obtained, and therefore, that
boots or shoes of different sizes may be made by the same machine. Instead
of using a separate set of cams for right or left shoes, I propose so to form the
grooves of the cams, that they will produce all the movements required for a
pair of shoes, namely, a right and left shoe. By this means, by the time the
several "describing." cams have made a revolution, a complete pair of boots or
shoes will be produced. When the cams are thus formed for the purpose
of
producing a pair of boots or shoes, it will be necessary that some convenient
self-acting arrangement be adopted for throwing the machine out of gear at
each half revolution, that is, at the completion of each shoe. Figure 8 on
Sheet Two of my Drawings represents a plan of the sole of a last of my im-
proved construction, whereby the pegs or other fastenings are prevented from
becoming fixed in the last, so that the last may be more readily removed or
withdrawn from the boot or shoe. This I accomplish by making a number of
hole, as shewn at a, a, in the sole of the last, such holes being made larger
than the ends of the pegs and placed so as to correspond exactly therewith.
By this means the pegs although entering the last will not become fixed
therein, by reason of the size of the holes; or the same result may be obtained
by making a groove or channel round the last, as shewn at a, a, in Figure 9.
Figure 10 represents a section of a last fitted with my improved apparatus
for removing or withdrawing it from the boot or shoe. A is a tongue of metal
hinged to the bottom of the last, and lying flush with the sole thereof when in
the boot or shoe, a spring B serving to keep the metal tongue in close contact
with the bottom of the last; C is a screw spindle which works through
a metal nut D. fixed in the last, and is formed with a square head for the
purpose of enabling it to be turned with facility. The lower end of this
spindle bears upon the end of the hinged tongue-piece, and when rotated by
any convenient apparatus, it presses outwards the tongue-piece, as shewn in
the Drawing, against the sole of the boot or shoe, which has the effect of
forcing up the last and enabling it to be easily drawn by hand. In place
of having a screw spindle, it is obvious that a sliding bolt, rod, or lever may
be used for acting upon the end of the tongue-piece. Figure 11 represents
my improved mode or method of strengthening and connecting the sole
of a boot or shoe where it is joined to the heel and other parts. This
I accomplish by inserting a metal plate A, or other strong material, beneath
the sole, and extending along the waist and beneath the heel of the boot or
shoe. This strengthening piece is perforated, so that nails, pegs, or other

page_text: fastenings may readily pass through it, and through the heel which is placed
above it. By this mode of strengthening the sole a great saving in leather is
effected. Fig. 12 represents the means which may be adopted for com-
pressing the leather or other similar fastenings while in a continuous length.
For this purpose a pair of grooved rollers A, A, will be found most convenient
in practice, the grooves being graduated in size for the facility of further
compressing the lengths of fastenings, by passing them successively through
the
here observe that I do not confine myself to any
particular construction or arrangement of the mechanism for compressing the
lengths of fastenings, but merely mention the use of the rolls as being
the most convenient mode of effecting the desired object.
grooves.
I
may
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said In-
vention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself
to the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe
or refer to, as variations may be made therefrom without deviating from.
the principles or main features of my said Invention; but what I consider to
be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by.
the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
1st, the general construction, arrangement, and combination of parts of;
machinery or apparatus for making boots and shoes, as herein-before
described.
2nd, the so forming and arranging the cams which impart the requisite:
motions to the boot or shoe, that one set of cams will produce alternately,
in the same machine, right and left boots and shoes, as herein-before
described.
3rd, the application and use, to and in the levers and slides which transmit
the motions of the cams to the frame carrying the boot or shoe, of moveable.
or adjustable centres or acting parts through which their motions are trans-
mitted, for the purpose of varying the extent of their several movements.
4th, the application and use, to and in the levers which convey the requisite.
traverse and angular motions to the boot or shoe, of slides carrying rollers or
studs which work in the grooves of the actuating cams, the axial line of such
rollers or studs being maintained in the direction of the radius of the cam by
means of a fixed guide, placed parallel to the axial line of the cam.
5th, the peculiar construction, arrangement, and combination of mechanism
for imparting the requisite traverse motions to the boot or shoe, as herein--
before described.
Sixth, the peculiar construction, arrangement, and combination of me-

page_text: chanism for imparting the requisite angular motions to the boot or shoe, as
herein-before described.
Seventh, the constructing of the vertical slides, which impart the rising and
falling motion to the boot or shoe, of a cylindrical form.
Eighth, the placing of the cam and slides which transmit the rising and
falling motion to the boot or shoe, and also the cams and mechanism imme-
diately connected therewith for giving the angular motion thereto, upon one
traversing table or carriage.
Ninth, the peculiar construction, arrangement, and combination of me-
chanism for driving the several "describing" cams, as herein-before described.
Tenth, the application and use of reciprocating platforms or surfaces for
imparting the requisite feed motions to the palls which actuate the "describing"
cams, such platforms or surfaces being of a sufficient size to allow for the
length and breadth traverse of the boot or shoe.
Eleventh, the imparting of all the requisite motions to the boot or shoe, by
means circumferentially grooved cams, as herein-before described.
Twelfth, the application and use of levers, as illustrated at Figures 4 and 5
of my Drawings, having slots or openings in their free ends, and working
in conjunction with a slide and universal joint, for the purpose of imparting
the angular motions to the boot or shoe.
Thirteenth, the peculiar constructions and arrangements of lasts for the
purpose of preventing the pegs or other similar fastenings from becoming
fixed therein, as herein-before described.
Fourteenth, the peculiar construction and arrangement of lasts for the
purpose of facilitating its removal from the boot or shoe, as herein-before
described.
Fifteenth, the strengthening of the soles of boots and shoes at the junction
of the heel across the waist, by inserting or applying at that part a plate or
slip of metal or other suitable strengthening material.
Sixteenth, the compressing of the leather or other fastenings while in a
continuous length, or previous to their being cut into lengths for pegs.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Sixteenth day of April, One thousand eight hun-
dred and fifty-eight.
J. BERNARD. (L.S:)