A NEW METHOD OF MOUNTING AND PRODUCING, AND ALSO OF REMOVING, PRE- SERVING, AND REPLACING THE FIGURE IN WEAVING GOLD LACE, SILVER LACE, SILK LACE, WORSTED LACE, COTTON LACE, THREAD LACE, AND OTHER LACES, WHETHER MADE OR COMPOSED OF THE AFORESAID ARTICLES, ANY OR EITHER OF THEM, OR A MIXTURE THEREOF
Year: 1820

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FRANCIS
LAMBERT, of Coventry Street, in the Parish of Saint James, Westminster, in
the County of Middlesex, Silversmith and Jeweller, send greeting.
WHEREAS His most Excellent Majesty King George the Fourth, by His
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Eleventh day of April, in the first year of His reign,
after reciting therein that I, the said Francis Lambert, had, by my Petition,
humbly represented unto His said Majesty that I, by a communication from a
certain Foreigner residing abroad, was possessed of an Invention, being
"A NEW METHOD OF MOUNTING AND PRODUCING, AND ALSO OF REMOVING, PRE-
SERVING, AND REPLACING THE FIGURE IN WEAVING GOLD LACE, SILVER LACE,
SILK LACE, WORSTED LACE, COTTON LACE, THREAD LACE, AND OTHER LACES,
WHETHER MADE OR COMPOSED OF THE AFORESAID ARTICLES, ANY OR EITHER OF THEM,
OR A MIXTURE THEREOF," did give and grant unto me, the said Francis Lambert,
my exors, admors, and assigns, His special licence, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that I, the said Francis Lambert, my exors, adñiors, and assigns,
and every of them, by myself and themselves, or by my and their deputy or
deputies, servants or agents, or such others as I, the said Francis Lambert,
my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter, during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend the said Invention within that part of His United Kingdom of Great

page_text: Britain and Ireland called England, His Dominion of Wales, and Town
of Berwick-upon-Tweed, in such manner as to me, the said Francis Lambert,
my exors, admors, and assigns, or any of them, should in my or their discretion
seem meet, and that I, the said Francis Lambert, my exors, adñiors, and
assigns, should and lawfully might have and enjoy the whole profit, benefit, com-
modity and advantage from time to time coming, growing, accruing, and
arising by reason of the said Invention, for and during the term of years
therein mentioned; in which said Letters Patent there is contained a proviso
that if I, the said Francis Lambert, should not particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, and
cause the same to be inrolled 'in His Majesty's High Court of Chancery
within four calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent, that then the said Letters Patent, and all liberties and
advantages whatsoever thereby granted, should utterly cease, determine, and
become void, as in and by the said Letters Patent, relation being thereunto
had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Francis Lambert, do hereby declare that this present Instrument, to which I
have affixed my seal and subscribed my handwriting, contains a full, faithful,
and accurate description of the herein-before described Invention, and of the
manner in which the same is to be carried into effect and used.
I make use of the ordinary loom with the exception of high or upper
leases, tyers, or other contrivances which have hitherto been used for mounting
and producing the figure, and I produce the figure by this Invention without
the use of high or upper leases, tyers, or such other contrivances. To effect
this I apply an apparatus above such ordinary loom, such apparatus being
constructed as herein-after is described, a perspective view of one side of
which apparatus is represented by Figure 2 of the annexed Drawing, and a
perspective view of the other side of the said apparatus is represented by
Figure 1 of the annexed Drawing, in which last Figure the apparatus is seen
fixed in its proper place upon the ordinary loom. This apparatus is supported
upon two bearers B, B, as shewn in Figure 2 (as well as at all other places
in the several Figures of the said Drawing where the letters B, B occur, for
similar letters are used throughout to indicate similar parts in all the said
Figures), which bearers near their ends are connected together by two cross
rails C, C, so as to form the whole into a frame, which I call the bottom
frame. The ends of the bearers rest upon and are fixed to the two upper side
rails A, A, of the ordinary loom in the situation shewn at A, A, in Figure 1,

page_text: being immediately over the cross piece or cradle of such loom. The apparatus
consists of two upright side cheeks parallel to each other, as at D, D, in
Figures 1 and 2, and also in Figures 3 and 5 of the annexed Drawing, and
the distance between these two cheeks must be greater than the width of the
warp in the loom at the part over which they are placed. The cheeks D, D,
rise perpendicularly from the bottom frame, and are surmounted by a cap E,
in Figures 1 and 2, which cap preserves the cheeks in their parallel position.
These cheeks are for certain pieces to slide in, as herein described; and in-
order to render such cheeks strong and steady they are stiffened by braces,
marked F in Figures 1, 2, and 3. Upon that portion of the bottom frame
which is contained between the upright cheeks D, D, a thin adjustable G, in
Figures 2, 3, and 5, perforated with small holes disposed in the direction of
straight lines, both in a side and lengthwise direction, is placed. The arrange-
ment of the holes will be best seen at G, in Figure 3, such Figure being a
plan of the bottom frame with the said board G upon it in its proper situation.
where it will also be seen that such holes are countersunk to fit the bottom of
the lifting hooks herein-after mentioned. This board I call the hook board, and
the holes in it are as close as will permit the working of the figure cords
through them. One end of each figure cord is looped on, as at M, to the
lower end of a wire, formed as at Figure 4 in the annexed Drawing, which
wire I call a lifting hook; and the other end of each figure cord being passed
through a hole in the hook board is connected below that board in the;
accustomed manner by means of the ordinary lower leases of the loom to such.
part of the warp which is required to rise to form the figure. The hook.
board is described as adjustable because it should be moveable upon the:
bearers B, B, for the purpose of adjusting the lifting books for working,:
which once done the hook board will not be required to move again, but is
screwed down upon the bearers. H, in Figure 4, shews the form of the upper
end of the lifting hook, its lower end being turned up as at I, K, into a long
hook, having the parts I and K parallel to each other, and I call the part of
the hook marked L its point. M shews the upper end of one of the figure:
cords looped on the lifting hook as aforesaid, and a hook similar to that
shewn at Figure 4 is attached to each figure cord passing through a hole in
the hook board G. The points L of the hooks must stand in the same.
lirection; and, according to the disposition of parts now describing, such
lirection must be towards the back of the loom, where the warp beam or
bobbins are usually placed, as will be seen at Figure 5 in the annexed
Drawing, which Figure is a section or side view of the apparatus as it would
ppear if cut through upon the dotted line J, J, Figure 3. The lifting hooks.

page_text: .
are retained in their position first by the aforesaid hook board G to support
them; secondly, by certain bars passing through their lower parts, called
gratings (which prevent them from turning round); and thirdly, by certain
needles which govern the situations of the points L of the lifting hooks. The
letters N and O, Figure 3, shew top views of the gratings aforesaid; they are
both alike and consist each of two ends N, N, united together by as many
straight bars marked O as there are rows of holes from front to back in the
hook board G. These bars are placed at such distances from each other as
to correspond exactly with the distances of the holes from front to back of the
hook board, while the length of the gratings, measured from N to N, is such
as to permit them to slide freely up and down between the upright cheeks
D, D; and when these gratings are placed in their proper situations
between D, D, each bar O will stand directly over a row of holes in the hook
board G, and thus all the holes in it will be covered previously to introducing
the gratings. All the figure cords are to be passed through appropriate holes
in the hook board G, and looped each to a lifting hook, as shewn at M,
Figure 4, and as already described, and the points of all the hooks being
turned towards the back of the loom the gratings are to be lowered into the
space between 1 and K, Figure 4, formed by turning up the bottoms of the
hooks, so that the letters O, in Figure 5, will represent the sections of the
grating bars when introduced into their proper places in the hooks, and thus
the grating bars prevent the hooks from turning round, as before stated;
while such gratings will, by their weight, assist in bringing down the hooks
after they may have been raised, such gratings being so constructed as
to be sufficiently heavy for that purpose. The size of the grating bars must
be correspondent with the width of the space I, K, formed in the lifting hooks
as aforesaid. It now remains to be shewn how these lifting hooks are raised,
in order that they may operate by means of their cords upon such part of the
warp which is required to rise to form the figure, and this is brought about by
lifting bars disposed in lifting frames, such lifting bars being parallel to and at
the same distance apart from each other as the grating bars above described.
The lifting bars are shaped in section like P, Figure 5, and are sufficiently
stiff and strong to bring up the lifting hooks with their appendages without
such lifting bars bending. These lifting bars are placed immediately over the
grating bars already described, and at but a little distance below the points L
of the lifting hooks; consequently whenever such lifting bars are raised
perpendicularly by the motion of the lifting bar frames in which they are
respectively fixed, and which raising is brought about by means of the levers
Q, R; Figures 1, 2, and 5, connected with such lifting bar frames, and acted

page_text: upon by their respective treadles, such bars will at the same time engage with
the points of all the hooks and lift them likewise, whereby all such part of the
warp which is required to rise to form the figure will be brought up, and
whenever such lifting bars are lowered such part of the warp will fall down
again. The lifting bars aforesaid are divided into two sets, and are disposed
in front and back lifting frames, shewn at S, V, and T, V, in Figures 2 and 5.
These lifting bar frames slide up and return between the upright cheeks. D, D;
and to produce whole lace the front lifting bar frame (being that next the
weaver) moves upwards, while the back one remains stationary; and vice
versa. To produce half lace such lifting bar frames must either be united or
they must move together in one direction, since the back lifting bar frame
T, V, alone is immediately connected with the matrix block and figure plates
used in regulating the figure, as herein-after described. The levers Q and R,
Figures 1, 2, and 5, connected with the front and back lifting bar frames,
when used seperately, will produce the double motion above described, while
if the two lifting bar frames are united for moving together (which I effect by
passing iron bolts through holes in them as dotted at U, U, Figure 5) then
one lever only connected with both lifting bar frames need be used. These
levers are connected with foot treadles in the usual manner. There must be
as many gratings as there are lifting bar frames in the apparatus, because one
lifting bar frame may be left down while the other is elevated, and each
grating is appended from the lifting bar frame over it by means of four strings,
(one of which is attached to each corner of each grating,) so that when a
lifting bar frame is raised, its grating follows it, by which the weight of the
gratings is taken from the hooks, and their rising is thereby facilitated, and
turning up the lower part of the hooks to a greater length than the gratings
can rise to in their action prevents their disengagement. Sliding grooves of
metal, as at W, W, in Figures 1, 2, and 5, are let into the insides of the
upright cheeks D, D, and corresponding metallic projections are fixed upon
the sides of the lifting bar frames to fit into such grooves to guide and render.
the motion of such lifting bar frames perpendicular, and to preserve them in
their proper situations, by which the contact and engagement of the lifting
bars with the lifting hooks is insured. The lifting bar frames are formed of
blocks of wood S, T, with sides as at V, V, in Figures 1, 2, and 5, sufficiently.
strong to perform their operations with certainty. In the disposition of
things already described it will be evident that whenever the lifting bars are
raised the whole of the figure warp will be brought up, while to produce a
figure only a part ought to be raised for each shade, and this quantity will.
generally change more or less with every sheet, until the same part of the

page_text: figure returns again. To bring about this end the lifting hooks, connected as
aforesaid with such part of the warp which is required to rise to form the
figure, but which may not be necessary for each particular shoot, are thrown
back by means herein-after mentioned to such a distance as to permit the
lifting bars P, Figure.5, of the lifting bar frame to pass such hooks without
engaging with them, as seen in section at Figure 5, which shows the lifting
hooks, with one of the lifting bar frames T, V, in its elevated position; but
only two of the hooks, H 1 and H 3, have engaged upon the bars and are
lifted, for H 2 and H 4 being pushed back as before mentioned, the lifting
bars P 2 and P 4 passed these hooks without coming into contact with them,
so that the parts of the warp connected with H 1 and H 3, and which are
required to rise to form a shade for the figure, will alone be brought up,
while all the others are left inactive. To effect the pushing back of the hooks
when not wanted, the needles before-mentioned are used as seen in Figure 5,
at X, Y, Z, a, X, Z. These needles are made of steel wire, and are made to
slide horizontally in holes formed to receive and fit them accurately in two
plates b, b, c, c, which I call the front and back needle plates; the front plate
b, b, is seen in Figure 1,. and the back plate c, c, is seen in Figure 2, and the ends
of both the plates are shewn at b, b, c, c, in Figure 5; each plate in the said
Figures been shewn in its proper situation. These plates are fixed on to the edges
of the upright cheeks D, D. The disposition of the holes in the back plate for
the needles to slide in is seen at c, c, in Figure 6 of the annexed Drawing, and
Figure 7 of the annexed Drawing is a separate view of a needle as seen from
above. The loop in the needle at d is for one of the lifting hooks to pass through,
and the loop at X is to form a stop to act against the inside of the back needle
plate c, c, and Y is the end of the needle which projects through such plate c, c, as
seen at Figure 5, where X also shows the stops, and from which Figure it will
appear that by means of such stops the ends Y, Y, a, a, of the needles can only
project a certain distance beyond the outside of c, c, and that the situation of
the points of the hooks L will in like manner be guided, for each lifting hook
passes through a loop like d in its own particular needle, as is seen at d in
Figure 5, and by which it will also appear that there must be as many needles
placed over one another in the plates b, b, and c, c, as there are rows of hooks
from front to back in the apparatus. These needles are all similar in form
and dimensions to each other in every respect, except that their loops d must
be at different distances from the ends Z, so as to permit the hooks which pass
through them to stand perpendicularly like H 1, H 3, when the stops X are
in contact with the inside of the back needle plate c, c. To the ends Z of each
of the needles (and which project through the back needle plate 6, 6,) I apply a

page_text: The spiral
conical spiral spring, as shewn at Z, Figure 5, which spring I call the needle
spring, and which is of sufficient strength to force all the ends Y, a, of the
needles out, and to keep their stops X in contact with the inside of the back
needle plate c; c, consequently, when no external force is used upon the ends
Y, a. of the needles, all the hooks marked H must rise whenever the lifting bar
frames are raised, because then all the hooks will be perpendicular; but if any
external force is applied to the ends of the needles projecting through c, c,
strong enough to overcome the springs at Z, and which force is supposed to be
in action at a, a, Figure 5, then the hooks passing through the loops of such
needles will be thrown back, as at H-2 and H 4, and the lifting bars P 2 and
P 4 will pass upwards without affecting the hooks H 2, H 4.
needle springs are passed into a third plate e, e, similar in form to the front
needle plate b, b, by which third plate such springs are held. From the fore-
going description it will appear that such part of the warp which is required to
rise to form the figure is by this Invention brought up by the rising of the
lifting hooks connected to such part as aforesaid, that the lifting hooks are
raised and lowered by the ascent and descent of the lifting bars fixed in the
lifting bar frames as aforesaid, and that although the whole of the lifting
hooks will be brought up if no pressure was exerted upon any of the needles'
ends, yet the whole or any given number of the hooks may be left down, and
thereby remain inactive, by exerting sufficient pressure upon the whole, or
such given number of the needle ends Y, a; and thus by a succession of these
means, in conjunction with the shuttle and other usual operations of the loom,
which being no part of this Invention I shall not describe, a figure will be
produced, for every projecting needle end Y which is so pushed in will
throw its corresponding lifting hook back out of the reach of the lifting
bars as they ascend, and consequently the part of the warp connected as
aforesaid with such lifting hook so thrown back will not rise with the
lifting bars, but all those lifting hooks, the needles of which are not pushed
back, will be carried up with the lifting bars, and will bring with such lifting
hooks their corresponding and connected parts of the warp to form the
figure. The projecting ends of the needles are so operated upon by means of
pieces of card or pasteboard with holes punched therein, corresponding to
the situation of such projecting needle ends as I require to remain pro-
jecting, in order that their respective lifting hooks may be carried up by the
raising of the lifting bars; and I apply such pieces of card or pasteboard so
punched with holes against the said projecting ends of the needles before
raising the lifting bars, in a manner and by a contrivance hereafter described.
These pieces of card or pasteboard, inasmuch as they regulate the shades

page_text: which are to produce the figure, I call figure plates; and since one figure plate
can only regulate a single shade, I must apply as many of such figure plates
in succession as there are shades in the entire figure to be produced, because
when a single plate is applied to the needle ends, all those needles the corre
sponding hooks of which are required to rise, will pass through the holes so
punched as aforesaid; but if any part of a figure plate is left unpunched and
without holes, the projecting ends of the needles coming into contact with
such unpunched part will be pushed in, and consequently all the lifting hooks
of such needles will be unoperated upon by the rising of the lifting bars. For
producing a proper succession of operations upon the needle ends I make all
my figure plates of the same size as the back needle plate c, c; and I connect
all these figure plates side by side to each other, as shewn at Figure 12 in the
annexed Drawing, by means of tape passed through holes, which I call
stitching holes, near the sides of such figure plates, so as to unite the whole
series of figure plates necessary to produce an entire figure into the form of
an endless chain, that is to say, the last side of the last figure plate is
connected to the first side of the first figure plate. The tape must not be
drawn too tight, but so that one figure plate may readily fold either forward or
backward. The manner of passing such tape through the holes is shewn at
Figure 13 of the annexed Drawing, and the connection of the different parts
of it is shewn by such parts being coloured alike.
I shall next describe the manner in which these figure plates are applied to
the ends of the needles projecting through the back needle plate c, c, to act on
such needles in due succession. Attached to the hinder part of the apparatus
above described is a swinging frame f. f, g, g, best shewn in Figures 2 and 5,
for the purpose of supporting and carrying a four-sided block of wood h,
which I call the matrix block, each side of which is of the same size as the
figure plates, and consequently as the back needle plate c, c, and is pierced
with holes corresponding in position with, but larger than, those in such back
needle plate. This matrix block turns on pivots (shewn at the separate view of
it, Figure 8 of the annexed Drawing) whereby any of the sides of such
matrix block may be applied to the back needle plate c, c, and the projecting
ends of the needles pass into the holes of the matrix block without friction or
contact. The swinging frame is hung to the cap E of the apparatus,
Figures 1, 2, and 5, between the points of the pivot screws i, i, which act in
holes made in brass plates on the sides of the swinging frame, as seen at k, k,
Figures 2 and 5, by means whereof the frame is so hung and adjusted as to
turn upon the points i, i, as an hinge, and so as to admit of the sides of the
matrix block coming into close contact with the exterior face of the back

page_text: needle plate aforesaid without disturbing or pushing in any of the needles. The
face of the matrix block which is in contact with such needle plate is main-
tained parallel to it by the pressure of the flat-bottom edges of two pieces of
wood j, j, which I call the detents, forced downwards by the spiral spring 1, 1;
consequently, the matrix block will thereby be retained in any situation in
which it may be placed, altho' a small force will be capable of turning.it
round and lifting such detents j, j, in manner herein-after described. A small
iron bolt is applied to such detent as at a, in Figures 2 and 5, for the purpose
of holding it up, when the matrix block is required to be removed, and the
screws permit the pivots of the matrix block to be raised or lowered for the
horizontal adjustment of the matrix block. Towards each end of each face of
the matrix block a projecting conoidal peg, which I call a steadying peg, is
inserted as marked m, in such manner as to fit exactly into two holes made
by a large punch thro' each figure plate, as at n, n, Figures 9, 10, and 12, and
likewise into the steadying holes p, p, in the back needle plate c, c, Figures
3 and 6. In further preparation of the apparatus the matrix block his
removed from its swinging frame, and the endless chain of figure plates being
placed over such block it is again restored to its situation in the swinging
frame, taking care to place the steadying pegs m, m, through the steadying
holes n, n, in the figure plate to be first used. The succeeding figure plate will
then lie upon
that side of the matrix block which will then be uppermost, and
those steadying pegs which point upwards will also pass through the steadying
holes in such succeeding figure plate. The remainder of the endless chain of
figure plates is disposed as shewn at o, o, Figure 1, where it will be seen that
the upper part of it passes over one or more rollers as the length of the figure
may require to support and seperate it from the lower part, which passes
down from the matrix block upon the iron rods q, q, into a frame r, r, for
holding the figure plates. From this description it will appear that if the
matrix lock be withdrawn, as hereafter described, from the back needle plate
c, c, by moving the swinging frame upon its pivots i, i, and that block be then
turned one quarter, the figure plate on such uppermost part will move with
the block and be brought opposite the back needle plate c, c, and the figure
plate next in succession will take its station on what will then be the upper-
most part of the matrix block, ready to come into action at its next motion;
and as the figure plates are discharged from the matrix block they are received
upon the two iron rods before mentioned. When the lifting hooks have engaged
on the lifting bars, and by their means are elevated, the operation of the figure:
plate is at an end, and a change of the figure plate is then effected in the
following manner:-

page_text: s, s, t, Figure 2, is a double guide of thin steel, the sides of which are
parallel to each other. It is firmly screwed on to the cross rails 9, 9, of the
swinging frame, which double guide, if looked at in profile or side view, would
like s, s, t, Figure 5. T, V, in the same Figure, likewise represents an end
view of the back lifting bar frame, in which the situation of the lifting bars
and hooks is also marked; and v is a brass roller working between the parallel
sides of the guide s, s, t, and supported upon an iron arm or projection W
from the block T of the lifting bar frame T, V. If this lifting bar. frame is
raised by its lever and treadle it cannot move far before such lifting hooks as
are not thrown back as aforesaid will engage with the lifting bars, and will
hang upon them, as shewn at H 1 and H 3 in Figure 5. While this is
doing the roller v will move upwards; and as the two parallel sides of the
guide s, s, are perpendicular as far as such letters, the roller in the first part
of its ascent will have no effect upon the swinging frame; but since this guide
cants or turns inwards from s tot a continuation of the motion of the roller v
will throw the swinging frame out of its original vertical position, as shewn in
Figure 1, into the inclining one shewn in Figures 2 and 5; consequently, the
matrix block h will be withdrawn from the back needle plate c, c, in order that it
may be turned as aforesaid, and this turning is brought about by an iron latch,
which I call a driver, shaped like u in Figures 1, 2, and 5; such driver is
screwed upon the outside of one of the upright cheeks D, D, as shewn in
Figure 1, and has but one tooth or catch which acts upon cogs framed between
two square iron plates fixed to the end of the matrix block, next such driver,
as seen at Figure 8, which is a separate view of the matrix block, and in which
Figure x, x, x, represent three of the four cogs at the end of the matrix block,
and the driver u, as represented in Figures 1, 2, and 5, rests with its mere
weight upon the two uppermost cogs a. and on the matrix block being with-
drawn from the back needle plate by the action of the swinging frame, as
herein-before described, one of the cogs will come into contact with the
tooth or catch in the driver u, and consequently the matrix block will be
turned one quarter in the direction of the arrow marked over it in Figure 5;
for if its motion be continued to any extent further towards the back of the
loom, this cog will merely slide under the smooth tail of the driver, and
when the matrix block is again permitted to return into contact with the back
needle plate c, c, by the descent of the back lifting bar frame, such cog will
lift the driver u, and will slide under the inclined plane, by which the tooth of
such driver is formed. If the weaver throws a wrong shoot, makes a mistake,
or any accident occurs in the work, he can remedy what is wrong, which is
effected without difficulty; for, although only one driver u has been described

page_text: to turn the matrix block and bring the figure plates forward, yet another driver
y is placed underneath it, and is attached to the driver u by a string z,
which is so long as to let the tooth of the driver y be so low as not to touch
any of the cogs. This string being continued passes over a pulley to near
the hand of the weaver, and by pulling which string the drivers are raised and
thereby the driver u is put out of and the driver y is brought up for operation;
and by the motion of the swinging frame, effected in manner aforesaid, the
matrix block will by the operation of the driver y be turned in a contrary
direction to that in which it was moved when acted upon by the driver u;
consequently, instead of advancing the figure plates it will return them, and
every shade which has been before shot into will be opened for the return of
the shuttle. Both the drivers may be elevated to such a medium heighth that
neither of them will touch the cogs of the matrix block, and then the lifting
bars may be raised any number of times for throwing different shoots if neces
sary without any change of the figure plate, and the drivers are also put into
this situation whenever the matrix block is removed.
I now proceed to shew the method of punching the figures plates before
adverted to. The holes are punched in them by cylindrical punches guided by
a pair of iron punching plates, one called the upper and the other the lower
punching plate. These punching plates have smooth surfaces, and are of
sufficient size to contain between them the cards or pasteboard previously cut
to the size of the back needle plate; these punching plates fit together with
six steadying pins, so placed as to hold the card or pasteboard without per-
mitting it to slip, as at Figure 9 in the annexed Drawing, which shews
an unpunched card or pasteboard in its place upon the bottom punching
plate to be punched. The Numbers 5 show such steadying pins which fit
into the under side of the upper punching plate, shewn at Figure 10 in the
annexed Drawing. Holes of about three times the diameter of the needle ends
Y, a, which holes I call figure holes, are drilled through both the punching
plates, their number and relative situation with respect to each other being
similar to the holes in the back needle plate and matrix block, and of the
same diameter as the holes in the latter. The coincidence in the situation of
the holes may be seen by comparing Figures 6, 8, and 10 together. I now
provide two cylindrical cutting punches, one fitting the figure holes and the
other the larger holes n, n, for the steadying pegs m, m, of the matrix block
to fit into. The four holes 7, 7, 7, 7, Figures 9.and 10, are for punching
the stitching holes before mentioned, which are of the same size as the
figure holes. The card or pasteboard being placed upon the lower punching
plate, as at Figure 9, is covered by the upper punching plate Figure 10, when

page_text: I punch the two steadying holes n, n, and the four stitching holes 7, 7, 7, 7
these six holes being required in every figure plate, but the figure holes mus
be punched according to the draft of the figure to be produced. I then begin to
punch the figure holes from the left-hand side of the punching plates, Figures
9 and 10, and consequently of the figure plate contained between them, and
I count or read the squares in the draft from left to right across the figure
instead of reading them lengthways, as ordinary practiced, the draft being read
upwards, and therefore I call the bottom shade in it the first. The position
of the respective figure holes with each other is governed by the manner in
which such parts of the warp which are required to produce the figure have
been connected as before described with lifting hooks. For example, it is
required to prepare a chain of figure plates to produce the figure, a part of
which is shewn in the weaver's draft, Figure 11 of the annexed Drawing, such
draft being for a livery lace, in which the colors of the figure are black and
red, the figure warp being run into the loom in the ordinary manner, I
connect the 8 first figure branches, being black, with the eight lifting hooks or
those between Nos. 1, 1, in Figure 3; the second row of eight lifting hooks
between 2, 2, in the same figure are in like manner connected with the next
eight figure branches, being red; the third row of lifting hooks will in like
manner be connected with the succeeding eight figure branches, being black,
and so on until all the branches required for the figure are disposed of. The
weaver's draft, shewn in Figure 11, requires four black-figure branches to rise
for the border, and these I obtain by punching in my first figure plate the four
holes marked 8, 9, 10, 11, in the column No. 1, of Figure 14, which is a
view of a figure plate of the actual size I use. Then having five squares to
leave blank, there being no figure in that part of the draft, I pass over the
five holes marked 12, and at the same time I pass the whole column of holes
No. 2 to the right of No. 1, because they command red-figure branches,
which in this example are not yet wanted. I next require thirty-two black-
figure branches, for which I punch holes, as marked 13 in the columns Nos. 3,
5, 7, 9, and 11, all those columns commanding black-figure branches, and I
pass over all the columus Nos. 4, 6, 8, and 10, for the reason before stated,
that they command red-figured branches. I now require five red-figure
branches, for which I punch holes as at Nos. 14, in the column No. 12,
leaving the holes to the left of those at No. 12 unpunched, because they com-
mand black-figure branches. Five black squares next occur in the draft,
which will require five holes to be punched, commanding black-figure
branches, and I commence these at 15, in the column No. 11, which only
admits of two holes being made, and I carry the remaining three to complete

page_text: the five to the column No. 13, as at 16, 16, 16. Five black spaces are next
required between the figure and the border, and these are left as at the
Nos. 17 of column No. 13; and as four black-figured branches for the border
as before complete the present shade, I punch the four holes marked 18
for such branches in the column No. 15, leaving the red column No. 14
untouched, on account of not requiring red-figured branches. This finishes
the first figure plate, according to the bottom shade of the draft. This
figure plate and all others when punched must be so used that the left hand or
commencing row of holes in any such figure plate may come opposite to
the row of needles marked 1, 1, in the seperate view of the back needle
plate, Figure 6, care being taken to present the top of the figure plate as
punched to the top of such needle plate, and to present the surface of the
needle plate which is uppermost while punching towards the needle plate.
Each figure plate as punched is to be numbered at its left side to preserve
their regular succession, and by this means the endless chain cannot be mis-
strung or improperly applied upon the matrix block, because the numbered
side of the endless chain should pass on the outside and towards the left side
of the loom, and in working the figure plates should pass over the matrix
block in the regular succession of their numbers. The second shade of the
draft, read upwards as aforesaid. requires five holes for black-figured branches
in the border, and five holes. to be left blank, there being no figure in that
part of the draft, and I proceed to punch the holes in the second figure plate
as in the preceding example, viz, I take the first five black holes in column
No. 1, Figure 15, as at the Number 19, and having only space for three holes
left in that column, I pass such space, and skipping the entire red column
No. 2, I also pass the two top spaces 21, in column No. 3, which completes
the five squares I had to leave on account of no figure occurring in the draft.
The draft next requires five black-figured branches, for which I punch holes
as at No. 22, in column No. 3. Seven red-figure branches next occur, and
now I pass to the red column No. 4, which only affording space for one hole,
as at 23, I skip over the black column No. 5, and begin at the top of the red
column No. 6, and punch the remaining six holes marked Number 24. Two
black-figure branches are next required, and as the black colour preceded the
red in the first instance so I preserve this same order; and instead of going to
the column No. 7 for the holes for the two last figure branches, I punch such
holes as at 25 in column No. 5. I commence the ten red holes which I next
require by placing the first eight thereof in the column No. 8, as marked 26,
and I commence the next two red holes of the ten at the top of the column
No. 10, as at 27. One black hole is again required, and as before, I take.

page_text: this at 28 on the left-hand column No. 9. Two red holes next succeed, and
these are taken from the proper red column No. 10, as at 29, taking care to
leave the space of one hole between 27 and 29 opposite to 28, because a black
and a red figure branch must not rise together in the same dent of the sley;
and the adjoining holes in the columns 1 and 2, 3 and 4, 5 and 6, and so on
are all so sleyed, two colours in one dent, which is the reason why other holes
have been and must be so passed on missed under similar circumstances; and
if three or more colours are employed three or more columns must be appro-
priated to them as aforesaid, and an equivalent number of columns must be
missed in passing from one colour to another; one black hole succeeds, which
I take at 30, in column No. 9, for the reason aforesaid.. I next require
four blanks to be left, because no figure occurs in the draft, two of which
I leave on the blank column No. 9, and the other two on the black column
No. 11. I now require three red-figure branches, which I take as at 31 in
column No. 12. Three blanks must next be left, because no figure occurs
in the draft, as before mentioned, and these I leave in column No. 12. Two
blacks must next be taken, as at 32 in column 13, after which 5 blanks are
left in the same column for the reason before stated, and five blacks are to be
taken for the border, one of which I take as at 33 in column No. 13, and
the other four as at 34 in column No. 15. This completes the second figure
plate, which I mark No. 2. The third shade of the draft requires another
figure plate, and as the border at this shade is the same as the first I punch
the holes for that border in the same situations, as in Figure 14, as will be seen
in Figure 16 of the annexed Drawing at Numbers 35. 9 blanks are now to be
left for the reason before stated, four of which I leave in column No. 1 of
that Figure, and the remaining five I leave in column No. 3, passing over
column No. 2 altogether, because it commands red-figure branches. Two
black holes are next wanted, which I take at 36 in column No. 2; six reds
must next be taken, the first of which I take at 37 in column No. 4, and the
remaining 5 holes at 38 in column No. 6. The two blacks which are next
wanted I take at 39 in column No. Five for the reason before stated; and for
a similar reason I take the first of the ten reds which are next wanted at 40
in column No. 6, and the remainder of them at 41 in columns Nos. 8 and 10.
One black, which is next required, I punch as at 42 in column No. 9, and then
I I pass to the red column No. 10, and take or punch 4 holes, numbered 43; I
then return again to the black column No. 9, and take one at 44; I then leave
four, there being no figure in the draft, viz, at the bottom of column No. 9, and
the remaining three at the top of column No. 11. I now take one red, as at
45 in column No. 12, and leave three blanks as aforesaid in the same column;

page_text: and now, as I want two blacks, I take the first of these, as at 46, at the
bottom of column No. 11, and the next at 47, at the top of column No. 13.
I now leave seven blanks, being the remainder of column No. 13, and I
take the four blacks, as at No. 47, for my border for the top of column No. 15,
which completes the third figure plate, and number it 3. The example of the
three shades already given will enable a weaver to complete the whole of the
figure last mentioned, or any other of a like description of work. When
three colors are used, since such colors are always arranged, there is a dent
following cach other in regular succession; two columns of holes in the
punching plates must therefore be missed instead of one, as in the last example.
Thus if the column No. 1 of Figure 14 were black, No. 2 red, and No. 3
yellow, No. 4 black, and so on, if I want nine black holes to begin with 1
punch the whole of the first column containing eight holes, and then jump to
the top holes of the fourth column for my 9th hole, thus passing the second
and third columns, because they command red and yellow; further, when 4
or 5 or more colors are required the same regular order of each colour
occupying its respective column must be pursued. In the description
of the lifting hooks herein-before given each lifting hook was said to be
connected with a figure cord, and that figure cord again attached at its
lower end in the ordinary manner to the work. Such arrangement would be
sufficient to produce half lace, but for orris and whole lace the lifting bar
frames act seperately, and the lifting cords of two lifting hooks must be
connected together below the cross piece, that is to say, in any given row of
hooks taken from back to front of the apparatus, that between 1, 1, in Figure 3,
for example. The lifting cord of the front hook or that next the weaver
must be united to the lifting cord of the fifth lifting hook, which will be the
first in the front lifting bar of the back lifting bar frame. The figure cord of
the second lifting hook on the said first row must be united in like manner to
the figure cord of the sixth hook from the front, the third hook to the seventh,
and the fourth to the eighth, and so of all the other parallel rows of lifting
hooks and figure cords from right to left of the apparatus. The same branches
may be brought up by either one or both the lifting bar frames, as may be seen
at Figure 17 of the annexed Drawing.
Having shewn the mode of attaching the figure cords to the lifting hooks
for orris or whole lace weaving, it must next be shewn how the figure plates
are punched, in order to produce the figure in this work.
Figure 18 of the annexed Drawing is a weaver's draft of an orris or
whole lace, and I punch this upon a figure plate, as shewn at Figure 19 of
the annexed Drawing; and since the two lifting bar frames in this case move

page_text: independantly of each other, and since the four lower horizontal rows of
needles appertain and belong to the front lifting bar frame, and the four upper
rows appertain to the back lifting bar frame, by the motion of which only the
matrix block is put in action, so I always commence this kind of weaving by
moving the front lifting bar frame first, and therefore I take all the whites
on the lower half of the figure plate, which thereby operates only on the books
of the front lifting bar frame, and all the blacks on the upper part of the
figure plate, beginning at the upper part of the left side, as before stated.
Figure 18 of the annexed Drawing is a weaver's draft of an orris or whole
lace, and I punch this upon a figure plate, as shewn at Figure 19 of the annexed
Drawing, which is numbered 1, as being the first shade of the orris draft,
Figure 18, which like the other drafts is read upwards, there being six
blacks to begin with. I punch holes for them in the manner previously
stated, viz, four holes in the first column, and two in the second, and two
whites next occurring in such draft I leave them in the columns No. 2; two
blacks must next be taken, the holes for which are punched at the top of
column No. 3, then follow two whites which are left in the same column.
One black is taken in column No. 4, and of the next four whites three are
taken in column No. 4, and one in column 5. Next four blacks are
taken, three holes of which are punched in column No. 5, and one in column
No. 6, and so on until the whole of the blacks in this shade are punched; I
then punch holes for the whites in the lower half of the same figure plate and
shade, and where blacks occur in such draft I leave them as I did the whites
in the former half. Thus the orris draft gives six blacks, and I leave 4 on the
column No. 1 and two on the column No. 2; I then take the two whites on
column No. 2, and leave two blacks on column No. 3, and I take the two whites
on column No. 3, and leave one black on column No. 4; I take the four
next whites, three thereof on column No. 4, and one on the column No. 5, and
so on until the whole of the shade is completed, which operation is too obvious
to require any further explanation, except that for an orris or whole lace two
figure plates must be punched at once for each shade of the Figure; each pair of
figure plates must be numbered alike and attached side by side together in the
endless chain, because in this kind of weaving the shuttle passes twice for each
treadle as in the accustomed manner. Thus it appears that so soon as the endless
chain of figure plates is applied in the matrix block in manner aforesaid, and the s
loom is worked by moving the apparatus as herein-before described in conjunction
with the ordinary operations in weaving, the figure will be produced, and will
continue to be produced, so long as the same endless chain of figure plates is con-
tinued to be worked. If it be required to remove that figure it may be done by

page_text: removing such chain of figure plates from the matrix block, and then another
chain of figure plates punched, for another figure may be immediately sub-
stituted and worked by the means aforesaid, provided the width of the warp
already in the loom be then suitable or rendered so, and the first set of figure
plates being so removed may be preserved and may be kept for use at a future
time, because whenever any chain of figure plates, which has been so taken
out, removed, and preserved, is required to be replaced for the purpose of again
producing its figure, this may also be done by removing any other chain of
figure plates which may then happen to be upon the matrix block, and by
restoring in manner aforesaid the first or other chain of figure plates so required
to be replaced in its former situation on the matrix block, and which I call
replacing the figure; and thus by the means aforesaid a figure may be mounted,
produced, removed, preserved, and replaced. And by this Invention an extra-
ordinary and greater length of figure may be produced than hath ever yet
been produced in that part of His Majesty's United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland called England, His Dominion of Wales and Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Francis Lambert, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eleventh day of August, in the year of our Lord