Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 12th July, 1887
Complete Left, 5th May, 1888
Complete Accepted, 8th June, 1888
1, REUBEN READER of Nottingham Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:—
The invention has for its object improved appliances to be used in connection with
sewing machines to simultaneously scollop or fashion and bind the edges of lace and
other fabrics.
In order to cut the edge of the fabric to the form required I provide as herein after
described a chisel like cutter which is automatically operated by the sewing machine
and which clips the edge of the fabric as it is guided forward towards the needle..
Then. immediately after passing the cutter the edge of the fabric is received between
the upper and lower surfaces of a braid with which the edge is to be bound, and
finally the braid is sewn on.
The braid is doubled to a trough like form by a metal U form guide through which
it is passed and this guide is carried by an horizontal arm fixed to the table of the
machine.
Vertical pins are provided in connection with the guide, they are arranged in a
row and the braid is passed between these pins in a zig-zag course.
The requisite
tension to the braid results from the friction of the braid against the pins when
it is drawn forward whilst in contact with them.
Immediately the braid escapes from the guide, it with the edge of the fabric around
which it has been laid is caught by the needle and the braid is sewn to the fashioned
edge of the fabric. The presser foot holds the fabric as it passes the cutter the binding
guide and the needle and also extends beyond and in front of the needle. Feed teeth
as usual operate to move the work forward stitch by stitch. The cutter consists of a
small chisel like blade which is moved up and down through a corresponding slit or
opening in the surface of the table. It works in unison with the needle bar but has a
much shorter movement. I mount this cutter on a lever moving in a vertical plane
....מ
09

page_text: about a fulcrum intermediate between the ends of the lever. The further end of the
lever I couple by a link with a short arm projecting from the needle arm behind
its axis.
Upon the cutter lever I also mount a spring presser consisting of a steel blade with
a notch in it for the edge of the cutter to pass through. The fabric as it advances to
the cutter passes beneath this presser. The presser descends upon the work just
before the cutter passes through to cut the edge to the form required. Then
afterwards immediately that the cutter rises its spring presser also is lifted and
the fabric can then advance for the next stitch and be guided so that the edge may
be cut to the form desired.
Sometimes I mount the cutter at the lower end of a vertical stem which can slide in
guides upon the head which also carries the needle bar. I then arrange the presser
to slide upon the stem and a coiled spring to press it downwards. When the stem
descends the presser first comes against the fabric and pressing it down to the table
holds it fast whilst the edge of the chisel like cutter passes through.
I actuate this cutter and presser by connecting them by a link to a lever which at
one end has a fixed fulcrum on the frame and at the other end is jointed to the
needle arm.
1000
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: Improved Appliances to be Used in Connection with Sewing
Machines to Simultaneously Scollop or Fashion and Bind the
Edges of Lace and other Fabrics.
I, REUBEN READER, of Nottingham, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The invention has for its object improved appliances to be used in connection with
sewing machines to simultaneously scollop or fashion and bind the edges of lace and
other fabrics.
In order to cut the edge of the fabric to the form required I provide as herein after
described a chisel like cutter which is automatically operated by the sewing machine
and which clips the edge of the fabric as it is guided forward towards the needle.
Then immediately after passing the cutter the edge of the fabric is received between
the upper and lower surfaces of a braid with which the edge is to be bound, and
finally the braid is sewn on.
The braid is doubled to a trough like form by a metal U form guide through which
it is passed and this guide is carried by a horizontal arm fixed to the table of the
machine.
Vertical pins are provided in connection with the guide, they are arranged in a row
and the braid is passed between these pins in a zig zag course. The requisite tension
to the braid results from the friction of the braid against the pins when it is drawn
forward whilst in contact with them.
Immediately the braid escapes from the guide, it with the edge of the fabric around
which it has been laid is caught by the needle and the braid is sewn to the fashioned
edge of the fabric. The presser foot holds the fabric as it passes the cutter the
binding guide and the, needle and also extends beyond and in front of the needle.
Feed teeth as usual operate to move the work forward stitch by stitch. The cutter
consists of a small chisel like blade which is moved up and down through a
corresponding slit or opening in the surface of the table. It works in unison with
the needle bar but has a much shorter movement.
I mount the cutter at the lower end of a vertical stem which can slide in a guide
upon the head which also carries the needle bar. I actuate the cutter by connecting
its stem to a lever which at one end has a fixed fulcrum on the frame and at the
other end is jointed by means of a link to the needle arm.
In order that my said invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect I will proceed to describe the drawings hereunto annexed.
יד
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
L

page_text: Figure 5 is a plan of the same; in this figure also a portion of the work is shown
and the positions of the needle, the cutter and the feed teeth are indicated.
Figure 6 is a section of the head of the braid guide on the line 6 6 in Figure 5.
Figure 7 is a plan of a portion of the table or cloth plate and shows the opening
therein and the feed teeth working in this opening.
Figure 8 is a plan of the presser foot.
Figure 9 is a vertical section taken through the cutter, the table or cloth plate, the
feed teeth, the presser foot and the braid guide. The arrow upon this figure indicates
the direction in which the work travels.
Figure 10 is a similar section taken through the table or cloth plate and the presser
foot; this section is taken in the plane in which the needle lies; the cutter and braid
guide are also represented in this figure.
The sewing machine (except as herein stated and shown) is of ordinary form and
construction. a a is its table or cloth plate, is the needle arm and the needle,
e is the presser foot, as Figure 8 shows it differs somewhat from the usual form and it
is furnished with a guard c to prevent the waste n' Figure 5 coming in contact with
the needle as the work is proceeding to it. d are the feed teeth, e is a projection on.
the head or frame of the machine provided to carry my improved cutting appliance.
The cutting appliance consists of the guide f, the stem g, the cutter h, the lever i and
the link k. The guide fis clamped to the head or frame in the manner clearly shown
by the drawings. The stem g can slide longitudinally in the guide, it is pin jointed
to the lever i which has its fulcrum upon the guide fat i. The link k joints or
couples the end of the lever i to the needle arın so that as the needle arm moves up
and down a like movement is imparted to the lever i and stem g. The cutter /
is clamped to the lower end of the stem g as the drawing indicates in such manner
as admits of its position being accurately adjusted. Thus whilst the sewing machine
is at work the cutter / works up and down through the openings in the presser foot
and in the table or cloth plate. is the braid guide, it is attached to the table
or cloth plate by a screw at 11 and it can be readily removed to facilitate the
introduction of the braid. 12 12 are pins upon the braid guide between which the
braid is threaded to regulate the tension. In Figure 5 m shows the braid. n a portion
of the work and n' the superfluous fabric which the cutter removes as the binding
progresses. It will be understood that the work is guided by hand through the
machine in the usual manner and that the cutter shapes the edge to the required form
according as the fabric is guided; that then the newly cut edge enters between the
upper and lower surfaces of the braid delivered doubled in U form from the guide
and that finally the needle passing through both the braid and the fabric sews
the whole together.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The combination substantially as described with a sewing machine of a cutter
and mechanism by which it is moved vertically by the machine during its action and
a braid guide operating therewith as herein set forth.
2. The appliances herein described to be used in connection with sewing machines
to simultaneously scallop or fashion and bind the edges of lace and other fabrics.
Dated this 2nd do. S M 1000