of Lace, and in the Fabric Made thereon.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 4th May, 1888.
Specification Accepted, 30th Nov., 1888
of Lace, and in the Fabric Made thereon.
I, JOHN HEWITT, of Gambles Factory, Newdigate Street, Nottingham, Lace
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my said invention and in what manner
the same is to be. performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
The object of my invention is to manufacture an improved description of lace,
producing a more solid and substantial looking fabric than heretofore, by means of
improved arrangements of Jacquard machinery.
In carrying out my invention, I use one Jacquard with two lifts or fallers, instead
of one, as in the ordinary, manner of working; or two Jacquards with ordinary lifts.
By this arrangement I obtain, (when the perforated card on the cylinder is pressing
off the needles, in the usual manner) an additional selection of strings, attached to the
jacks or pickers, in the lace machine; which arrangement allows the threads of which
the fabric is composed to be thrown a greater distance, or, what is known in the trade
as an extra gait." In addition to producing a more solid and substantial looking
fabric, as herein before mentioned, my invention is also capable of producing a greater
variety of effects and variation in the ground-work than can be produced by the
ordinary method of working.
"
And in order that my said invention may be particularly described and ascertained,
reference is hereby made to the accompanying drawings, in which similar letters of
reference indicate corresponding parts; and in which drawings I have illustrated my
invention by showing my arrangement of a double lift single cylinder Jacquard
machine; and, from which drawings and description persons skilled in the art will
readily understand how my invention may be worked with two Jacquards.
Fig. 1 is a sectional elevation of my invention.
Fig. 2 is an elevation showing also some of the connections for opérating the lifts.
Fig. 3 is a plan view.
ليم
120
conerated position

page_text: a is the upper lifting frame, fitted with the lifting bars kk. bis the lower lifting
frame, fitted with the lifting bars jj.
The frames a and b are capable of receiving vertical reciprocating motions, either
combined or independently, and are so used.
d is the card roller or cylinder, which carries the perforated cards cc.
needles having the usual eyes a, through which the lifting hooks w pass.
ee are the
The frames a and b are worked independently of each other, by means of levers
(not shown in the drawings) fitted upon the shaft g. The shaft g is worked by the
lever and connecting rod p, driven by a suitable cam. The two circular guide
rods ss are the usual guide rods, which, in the ordinary Jacquard, are used for
working one frame b; but the extra frame a is worked (upon the same guide rods ss)
loose and independently of the frame from the two levers ii, by connections
attached at one end to the levers ii, and at the other end to centres formed upon the
frame a.
The levers i are fitted to work loose on the ordinary shaft g, the shaft acting
as an axle to the levers . These levers are attached to the square bar 1, by means
of feet, bolted to the same bar 1, as shown in Fig. 3. A lever m, connected by the
rod n to the ordinary cam, imparts the necessary motion.
The needles e e have loops or eyes at er formed upon them, through which the
lifting hooks we pass.
When the cylinder d is moved against the ends of the needles e e, the holes c¹ in
the cards c, permit some of the needles to enter such holes, in which case the needles e e
remain stationary, and the lifting hooks w retain their vertical position. When the
lifting bars descend to the hooks we, the hooks which are not pressed back by the
needles are caught by the lifting bars j and k and lifted upwards, whereby some of
the strings are drawn upwards in the usual manner.
The additional selection of the strings attached to the jacks or pickers in the lace
machine is obtained by working the extra lift a independently of the ordinary lift b,
so that the frame a can be held up for a longer time than the frame b, thus allowing
time for the threads of which the fabric is composed to be thrown a greater distance,
or an extra gait."
66
Two separate frames are used in order to obtain the separate nrotions, so that the
lifts can be timed from the cam exactly as required.
I wish it to be understood that the frames a and b are lifted to equal heights, and
not one higher than the other, and that the strings are all of one length, but the
frame a is required to be held up longer than the fraine b, so as to give time for the
threads to travel the extra gait or distance. Thus the two frames a and b both rise
together, but the frame falls sooner than the frame a, so that a holds up longer and
falls quicker than b, reaching its lowest point in time for the next selection from the
card on the cylinder.
When using one Jacquard with the two lifts a and b, all the pickers are attached in
pairs to the needles connected with the & faller by means of strings: two pickers being
attached to one needle; thus, the b faller, which falls first, takes up all the pickers in
the machine. Every other picker in the machine is also attached by a single string
to the needles in the a faller (one picker for one needle) thus making two strings on
one picker and one on the other; and so on right across the machine. Thus the
selection from the card is made as both fallers rise together; but, the faller a holding
up half the Jacks in the machine (that is every other) for a longer time, allows
time for the threads of which the fabric is composed to travel the extra distance
or gait.
With two Jacquards exactly the same system could be worked, and they could
also be worked by connecting one needle in each Jacquard to each picker in the
machine. Thus all the pickers in this case would have double strings.
The advantages derived from working with one Jacquard are as follows:-The use
of one pack of cards instead of two, saves the extra expense of cards and punching
and also the extra expense and trouble of working two packs of cards instead
of one.

page_text: $
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. In the construction and working of Jacquard machines, the application and use
of double lifts or fallers a and b, each fitted with lifters k and j, severally operating
substantially as and for the purposes hereinbefore described and shewn on the
drawings.
2. The manufacture of the improved fabric whether produced by one Jacquard
with two lifts as herein before described, or by two Jacquards with ordinary lifts.
3. The general construction, combination, and arrangement of the several and
respective parts, together constituting my improvements in warp or other machinery
used in the manufacture of lace, and in the fabric made thereon, substantially as
herein before described and illustrated on the drawings.
GEO. DOWNING,
Agent for Applicant.