Improvements in and relating to Machines for Sewing Button Holes and for Fancy Stitching.
Year: 1885

page_text: Improvements in and relating to Machines for Sewing Button
Holes and for Fancy Stitching.
We JOHN HENRY TYLER of N° 42 West Square St Georges Road S.E. in the
County of Surrey Engineer and FRANCIS CAMERON of No 275 London Road
Glasgow in the County of Lanarkshire Engineer do hereby declare the nature of
our invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO MACHINES FOR SEWING
BUTTON HOLES AND FOR FANCY STITCHING to be as follows:-
We obtain an automatic compound motion of the cloth-plate, presser-foot or
cramp of a button hole sewing machine by constructing a screw with one or more
threads such screw being free to revolve in bearings fixed to the sliding carriage
which supports the cloth-plate and we attach the nut through which the screw
passes to the underside of the cloth-plate itself we fix on the screw-shaft a pair of
right and left-handed ratchet wheels actuated by coming into contact with two
pawls one pawl coming into action when stitching one side of the button hole and
the other pawl coming into action when stitching the opposite side they are thrown
into and out of gear by the movement of a forked clutch lever which actuates a
bell crank in order to change the direction of the motion of a second lever to which
the two pawls are attached such forked clutch lever also actuates a roller herein-
after described and for which the forked end is necessary; the foregoing arrange-
ment is for reversing the screw to the right or to the left consequently to shift the
cloth-plate to and fro in a longitudinal direction or lengthwise of the button hole
both pawls being thrown out of gear by the movement of the forked clutch-lever
consequently the movement of the bell crank and second lever.to which they are
connected and the screw out of action whilst the bars of the button hole are being
formed; we actuate the cloth-plate in a transverse direction to the foregoing for
the series of stitches down each side of the button hole also for the barring stitches
at each end of the same by fixing bearings to the sliding carriage to support a shaft
or pin on or with which a roller with a projecting boss in which a clutch groove is
cut is free to revolve and slip end wise to and fro and is slid into and out of position
by the forked clutch lever the forked end of which works in the clutch groove and
the same lever also actuates the bell crank and lever with the two pawls herein-
before mentioned the forked clutch lever itself being actuated by a cam fixed on
the friction feed shaft the groove in which forms two semicircles or arcs with their

page_text: ends joined together by two oblique angles or curves across the cam face; we con-
struct a lever with three faces at one end each face presenting one or more planes
angles or curves or preferably a plane and a curve on each face which if required
are made adjustable in order to alter the width of the button hole these faces are
situated at right angles to the fulcrum pin of the lever which is attached to the
machine frame: we fix a double cam on the driving shaft the two grooves in
which are concentric except at the point of crossing where the ends of both grooves
curve and meet each other in order that the cam stud shall alternately pass from
one groove to the other at each revolution of the driving shaft, the cam stud is
attached to and actuates the three faced lever once up and once down during two
revolutions of the driving shaft this lever through the roller herein before mentioned
communicates the required transverse motion to the cloth-plate and when either of
the concentric parts of the double cam are passing the cam stud the lever is at a
dwell and holds the cloth-plate in position during the time the stitch is being
formed; one or more springs are attached from the machine frame to the sliding
carriage upon which the roller bearings are fixed in order to keep the roller in
contact with one or the other of the three faces on the lever two of which faces
are alternately in use when stitching the sides of the button hole and actuate the
cloth-plate to a greater or a lesser distance one face projecting further from the
fulcrum pin of the lever than the other the third and centre face on the lever is for
forming the bar at each end of the button hole and actuates the cloth-plate a
greater distance than either of the other two.
DL
L
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page_text: Improvements in and relating to Machines for Sewing Button
Holes and for Fancy Stitching.
We JOHN HENRY TYLER of 42 West Square St Georges Road SE in the County
of Surrey Engineer and FRANCIS CAMERON of No 275 London Road Glasgow in
the County of Lanarkshire Engineer do hereby declare the nature of our invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO MACHINES FOR SEWING BUTTON HOLES
AND FOR FANCY STITCHING and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention for Improvements in and relating to Machines for Sewing Button
Holes and for Fancy Stitching is of simple construction, it is only required to
cramp the fabric to be sewn in position on the cloth plate and on the necessary
rotary impetus being applied the Button Hole is stitched entirely by Automatic
Action. In order to effect the sewing of a Button Hole or Fancy stitching in this
manner the cloth-plate presser-foot or cramp which holds the fabric to be sewn
must be capable of three motions under the needle one in a longitudinal direction
to or fro lengthwise of the Button Hole, one in a transverse direction to or fro at
right angles to the foregoing for the series of stitches along each side of the Button
Hole, and one in a similar direction for the barring stitches at each end of the
same the last motion embraces the combined width of the transverse side stitches.
By these improvements the respective sides of a button hole are stitched parallel
to each other and the barring stitches at each end of same are formed automatically.
By the aid of the accompanying drawings we will proceed to explain the method
of obtaining the automatic compound motion of the cloth plate presser foot or
cramp also to describe the various working parts of the said invention in order
that it may be more readily understood.-Figures 1 and 2 on Sheet I and Figure 3
on Sheet II represent three views of the working part of the invention in their
respective positions on the machine frame and Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 on
Sheet II represent the working parts in detail the same letters of reference are
used for corresponding parts in the various figured views and details.
We obtain an intermittent longitudinal motion to or fro (lengthwise of the
button Hole) of the cloth-plate presser-f ot or cramp F. by means of the screw on
the screw-shaft D. which is free to revolve in bearings d2 and d³ fixed to the
sliding carriage E. which supports the cloth-plate presser-foot or cramp F. (the
screw on the screw-shaft being situate between the bearings) the nut d' through
which the screw passes is attached to the underside of the cloth-plate itself-we
turn the screw-shaft D intermittently to the right or left consequently shift the
cloth-plate F. (to which the nut d' is attached) to or fro by means of a pair of
right and left handed ratchet wheels G and G₁ fixed on the screw-shaft D which
through the transverse motion of the cloth-plate come into contact with and
engage the pawls g³ and g³ alternately both of which are attached to a single lever H
one pawl and one ratchet wheel being engaged when stitching one side of the Button

page_text: Hole and the other pawl and ratchet wheel coming into action when stitching the
opposite side of the same.-the lever H to which the pawls 92 and g³ are attached
is thrown into and out of position by the movement of the bell crank I affected by
another lever termed a clutch lever K which latter is actuated intermittently
by the cam L fixed on the feed shaft C of the machine and changes the direction
of the motion of the lever H to which the two pawls g2 and 9ª are attached
(such cam L and clutch lever K. also act on a roller n' hereinafter described) the
foregoing arrangement is for revolving the screw-shaft D to the right or left
consequently to shift the cloth-plate presser-foot or cramp F. to or fro in a
longitudinal direction or lengthwise of the button-hole and as the change of gear
between the right and left handed ratchet wheels G and G¹ and the pawls g² and g³
is gradually accomplished an interval of time or dwell takes place between their
alternate actions during which dwell the barring stitches at the end of the button
hole are formed. When preferred we make use of a single ratchet wheel only with
the ratchet teeth so constructed that they will gear with either the right or left
banded pawl as required.-We actuate the cloth-plate presser-foot or cramp F. in a
transverse direction to the foregoing for the series of stitches down each side of the
button hole also for the barring stitches at each end of the same by fixing the
bearings n³ and n to the sliding carriage E. in order to support the shaft or pin N
on or with which the roller n¹ with a projecting boss is free to revolve and slide
endwise to or fro the boss of such roller having the concentric groove or neck n²
cut in it which receives the end of the fork k¹ fitted to the clutch lever K (before
mentioned) by which the roller n¹ is actuated the requisite motion being com-
municated to the clutch lever K by the cam L (also previously alluded to) fixed on
the feed shaft C of the machine the groove in cam L forms two semicircles or arcs
(concentric to the feed shaft C) united on each side at an oblique angle or curve
across the cam face preferably we use one side of the cam groove only (see 80
Figure 8) against which the cam runner L' fitted on a stud attached to the clutch
lever K is constrained by means of the spring O. attached between the clutch
lever K and the machine frame A.-We construct the rocking arm or lever P one
end of which presents three faces p¹ p² and p³ each face having one or more
planes angles or curves at right angles to and at varying distances from the fulcrum
pin p of the lever P attached to the machine frame A. Preferably we form a
plane and a curve on each of the three faces which when required are made
adjustable so as to alter the width of the Button Hole We fix the cam R
on the driving shaft B of the machine the groove in which forms two concentric
arcs one of lesser diameter than the other which at a given point converge and
intersect in order that the cam stud r¹ adjusted to the groove should pass
alternately from one are to the other at each revolution of the driving shaft B the
cam stud ¹ being attached to the lever P causes the latter to move once up and
once down during two revolutions of the driving shaft B which movement through
the three faces p¹ p² and p³ on the lever P. communicate the required transverse
motion to the cloth-plate presser-foot or cramp F in consequence of the three
faces pp2 and 23 at the end of the lever P not being concentric with or
equidistant from the fulcrum pin 2 and the roller n¹ impinging on and being
constrained against one or the other of the three faces of the lever P by means of
the spring S acting between the sliding carriage E which carries the roller n¹ and
the machine frame A The two side faces p₁ and p³ at the end of the lever P are
alternately brought into action when forming the stitches along the two sides of
the button-hole one face for one side and one face for the other and the third or
centre face p² is brought into action for forming the barring stitches at each
end of same and actuates the cloth-plate F. the extent required to embrace the
combined width of the transverse stitches at the sides.-The lever P. (consequently
the cloth-plate F. so far as its transverse motion is concerned) remain at a dwell
when either of the concentric parts of the cam R. are passing the cam stud¹
during which dwell the stitch is formed.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is
1. The method of obtaining the intermittent longitudinal motion of the cloth-
plate presser-foot or cramp F. by means of a ratchet wheel or the ratchet
wheels G and G¹ fixed on the screw-shaft D and the pawls g² and g³ substantially
as herein described.
2. The method of obtaining the intermittent transverse motion of the cloth-plate
presser-foot or cramp F. by means of the rocking arm or lever P in combination
with the cam R the cam L the clutch lever K and the roller n' substantially as
herein described.
3. The rocking arm or lever P. with its three faces p¹ p² and 23 substantially
as and for the purpose herein described and represented.
4. The cam R for the purpose of actuating and in combination with the rocking
arm or lever P as herein described.
5. The cam L for the purpose of actuating and in combination with the clutch
lever K. substantially as described.
6. The combination of the methods of obtaining the longitudinal and transverse
motions of the cloth-plate presser-foot or cramp F. substantially as and for the
purpose herein described and represented.
Dated this 20th day of Sentember 1885
JOHN HENRY TYLER.
FRANCIS CAMERON.