Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Fabrics, and in Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 16th May, 1896
Complete Specification Left, 12th Sept., 1896-Accepted, 28th Nov., 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Fabrics, and in
Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
I, HEINRICH SPIEGLER, of 1 Schottenbastei 11, Vienna, Austria, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
All fabrics woven with longitudinal borders have heretofore had straight outer
edges excepting woven ribbons or bands, which have been provided by means of
the weft with small loops serving as ornamentation on their longitudinal edges.
Now this invention relates to woven fabrics which are, by means of the weaving
process proper, ended off on one or both longitudinal edges with borders which
may be zig-zagged in a rectilinear or curvilinear manner, scalloped, or otherwise
outlined according to a constantly recurring pattern and have the appearance of
being cut out, embroidered, festooned, edged by sewing, or ornamented by lace-
work, or otherwise, according to the weaving-process in each particular case.
Ornamental borders of these kinds can be produced on woven fabrics in manifold
ways in the weaving of the said fabrics, according as it is desired by merely
drawing in the borders to produce the desired zig-zag or scalloped form in the
borders of the woven fabric, or to impart to the said borders the appearance of
being ornamented with embroidery, or produced by festooning or ornamented with
lacc-work. In these latter cases, one or more threads, worked into the fabric
during the weaving-process, are employed to form the edge of the border and
which also serve to increase the strength of the ornamental border and to prevent
its unravelling.
The configuration of the borders may be effected either by the particular_mode
of weaving, or by means of special devices to be applied to the loom. In the
former case, the configuration can be produced by the crossing or intersection alone,
or by causing warp-tbreads to float at suitable places; in the latter case
by the use of a reed having its teeth set obliquely throughout its width or
only in certain portions thereof. The configuration may also be effected by the
combination of these modes of weaving with the aforesaid arrangement of reed.
The further development and fastening of the fabric-borders formed in this way,
may be effected by the use of so called "edge or binding threads," or by means of
over-edge stitching or "figuring," or with the aid of "drawing-in or whip-
threads"; also with a looped "drawing-in, whip, or figuring thread" and "filling-
thread"; or by the use of an embroidering-thread that acts at the same time as a
"drawing-in or whip threads," "edge-thread," or "filling-thread," or finally with
the help of "skeleton-threads."
In many cases, the loom will have to be fitted with devices which shall allow of
the necessary slackening or looseness of the warp-tbreads for the purpose of
drawing-in the same in the recurring zig-zags or curves.
Figs. 1 to 20 inclusive of the accompanying drawings, are diagrams of borders
according to this invention woven in different ways.
Figs. 1 and 2 represent examples of borders produced by crossing alone.
Figs. 3 and 4 represent fabrics, the crossing of which may be of any desired kind,
and in which the zig-zag-shaped border is formed by means of a reed with teeth
set obliquely.
Fig. 5 represents a border of this kind produced by allowing warp-threads to
float during weaving.

page_text: Fig. 6 shows an ornamental border with edge or binding threads.
Figs. 7 and 8 and Figs. 9 and 10 show ornamental borders each of which has
two-edge-threads, the modes of crossing the same and the methods of producing the
ground-fabric of the border being different.
Fig. 11 iliustrates the formation of the pattern of a woven border with
"figuring" or over-edge sewing.
Fig. 12 is a diagram of a border whose form is produced by using whip-
threads.
Fig. 13 shows a border with a whip-thread and with filling-threads, and
Fig. 14 shows a modification thereof in which a thread arranged after the
manner of an edge-thread is used as filling-thread.
Fig. 15 shows a woven border having its outer edge bounded by a woven-in
embroidery-thread.
Figs. 16 and 17 are diagrams of woven borders in which edge-threads or whip-
threads are variously employed.
Figs. 18, 19, and 20 are diagrams of woven fabrics produced by crossing
embroidery-threads with whip-threads, with the use of border warp-threads which
serve as a frame or skeleton and can be pulled out.
Figs. 21 to 24 inclusive show loom-devices for producing woven fabrics having
round, angular, or other shaped zig-zag borders with the aid of a reed having
obliquely set teeth;
Fig. 21 shows a reed in which only the border-portion is formed by oblique
teeth, whilst
Fig. 22 is a front elevation and Fig. 23 a section of the mechanism of a reed all
of whose teeth are set obliquely, Fig. 24 being a section of a modification of this
mechanism.
Figs. 25 to 34 inclusive show various modified constructions of devices to be
applied to looms, when weaving with whip-threada, and generally as auxiliary
appliances for slackoning the warp-threads that constitute the ornamental border
of the woven fabric.
In the following description, for the sake of enabling the invention to be more
clearly understood, the weaving-process for producing the ground-fabric of the
border-part will be described separately from the process of weaving-in or
weaving-on the ornamental thread or threads, although, as will be obvious,
the ornamental thread (particularly when a whip-thread) may often constitute
the fabric proper also; whilst, vice-versa, ornamental threads may be taken
from the ground threads of the fabric, both modes of weaving may, however, be
employed together.
I. WOVEN BORDER PRODUCED BY CROSSING ALONE.
In this case, in contra-distinction to the ordinary mode of crossing, which ends
off the fabric in straight lines, the crossing is effected in such a manner that the
warp threads are drawn-in more or less by the return pick in accordance with the
desired outer limiting line of the border.
Fig. 1 is a diagram of a border produced in this manner. For the sake of
simplicity, only half the border, from the outermost to the innermost point of the
curve, is shown. The first four picks S, by continually crossing, hold the warp-
threads K as far apart as possible. As the weaving progresses, this crossing

page_text: accordance with the intended outline of the figure, there is also woven into a loop
formed by the return pick, a number of warp-threads which increases gradually
from the outermost point of this line towards the innermost point of the same.
By this means, as all the warp-threads of the border are finally located in one
line of weft, the fabric is drawn together more and more tightly or closely
by the return pick until the innermost point of the outline or of the border has
been reached.
II. A WOVEN BORDER PRODUCED BY MEANS OF A REED HAVING ITS
TEETH SET OBLIQUELY.
This arrangement, which is well known in weaving for other purposes, can
be used for producing the external contours of woven borders in lines of ornamental
patterns, especially in round or angular scallops or serrations, by correspondingly
shifting portions of the reed, or, it may be, the whole of the reed, whereby
the warp-threads of the border, or the warp-threads generally, are drawn-in
more or less, according as they are subjected to the action of the teeth of the
reed in the more closely set portions or in the more widely set portions of the
latter.
Figs. 3 and 4 are diagrams showing, by way of example, the patterns of two
fabrics woven in this manner, the crossing of which may be of any suitable kind;
and Figs. 21 and 22 illustrate the constructions of reed for producing these patterns
of fabrics.
As shown in Fig. 21, the reed consists of two portions a and a' which, as in an
ordinary reed, abut on each other in the line of the teeth, but of which the portion a
that is designed for the body of the fabric, is fixed, and has, as usual, teeth set
at equal distances apart, whilst the portion a' that is intended for the border-
threads, is capable of being moved up and down, and has teeth which converge
downwardly. By moving the part a¹ of the reed upwards, the teeth come into
operation where they are set closer together, with the result that the border-
threads that pass through the portion a¹ are crowded up into a narrower space,
and the pick made in the meantime is drawn-in more. Consequently the fabric
becomes narrower in a manner corresponding to the design selected for the border.
The opposite effect is produced by lowering the reed. It is not necessary, however,
that the distribution of the warp-threads in the reed be always effected by passing
exclusively body-threads into the part a, and exclusively border-threads into the
part a'. The movable part a' may also be employed at the same time for both
border-threads and body-threads. This will be desirable especially where, as in
large-sized designs, it is not possible to produce the difference in the width of the
desired border-design and of the fabric merely by placing the border-threads
further apart or nearer together, because in this case the threads and the teeth
would have to be moved so close up to one another as thereby to render the
weaving much more difficult.
In this case, the difference in width-that is to say, the distance between the
parallel lines passing through the outermost and the innermost points of the
border-design-is advantageously spread over a portion or all of the body-threads.
An arrangement of reed for this purpose is shown in Fig. 22, whilst Fig. 4
represents the corresponding border-design to be produced therewith.
In this reed, also, the teeth are set wider apart at the top than at the
bottom, but the difference between the width at the top and the bottom is dis-
tributed over the total number of the teeth, and consequently over a much larger
space, so that therefore the several tooth-spaces are nowhere very close together
at the bottom.
The shifting of the reed is effected in both cases by means of cams or eccentrics b
(hereinafter referred to as cams) which are mounted on the batten and are so
formed that when they are rotated (as they are at every single, or, it may be, at

page_text: return-pick, going first over and then under the border warp-threads, the whip-
thread will weave around the border, being twined or looped round it. In this
way there is produced on the fabric a roll-like border woven around in a looping
or festooning manner.
This mode of weaving is illustrated in Fig. 13, in which E indicates the whip-
thread that twines, loops, or festoons in the manner stated and K' are the warp-
threads that are not caught by the weft S and act as filling-threads. Instead of
these filling-threads, or simultaneously with them, there may, however, also be
drawn in by the whip-thread, for the purpose of filling, one or more special threads
which are located, after the manner of edge-threads, in a way corresponding
to the form of the outline. Fig. 14 shows an example of this, in which E represents
the whip-thread that is woven in a looping or festooning manner and F the
edge-thread acting as a filling-thread.
VIII. FABRIC-BORDERS WITH EMBROIDERY-THREADS.
If, in the production of one of the fabrics described under I, II and III, use be
made of the embroidery-staff, or merely of one or more embroidery-needles, then
with the aid of one or more embroidery-threads, a fabric-border of a new kind can
be produced in which the embroidery-threads are woven-in in such a manner that
they give the impression of embroidery.
Fig. 15 is a diagram of a fabric of this kind.
In the weaving, the embroidery-thread St is moved laterally in such a manner
that it effects a crossing with the weft S not in the fabric but outside the same
and is drawn by the return-pick in the manner of the edge or filling thread to the
fabric-edge, or in the manner of the whip-thread into the open shed until the weft
is, in a manner corresponding to the desired pattern, held fast by the crossing and
the embroidery-thread is therewith also held fast.
Fig. 15 shows how an embroidery-thread woven in this way also acts as a whip
or drawn-in-thread. This embroidery-thread, however, as will be seen, takes part
in the border-formation not only as a whip-thread, but also gives up embroidery-
thread to the fabric at each of its lateral movements, so that by this means the
thickness of the weft or the embroidery-thread in the border becomes a multiple of
that of the body of the fabric.
Thus in the example shown in Fig. 15, the embroidery-thread, during each
to and fro movement of the needle, which takes place between the points 1 and 2,
gives up each time four thread-lengths to the fabric. The weaving is effected in
such a manner that after the binding or crossing of the embroidery-thread at the
point 1 the first pick takes place, during which the embroidery-staff goes from
right to left and rises, whilst the ground or body weft, which is going from left to
right, catches the embroidery-thread and draws it, like a whip-thread, into the
fabric as a loop until the body-shed crosses, when the embroidery-staff falls and the
embroidery-thread is bound in at the points 2 and 3. Now the second pick takes
place; the embroidery-staff, which is now on the left-hand, moves toward the right
and rises, the body or ground weft passes through and the embroidery-thread is
bound in at the points 4 and 5. The subsequent picks take place in the same way
and with the same effect as the first and second picks and alternate with one
another like them.
The embroidery-thread, when it serves as a whip-thread, can be bound o
crossed in different ways, and can also be employed in association with the modes
of weaving described under IV, V, and VI, or with any desired combination of
the same, and it can be worked with on one or both sides of the fabric.
The aforesaid edge-threads and whip-threads enable still further modifications
to be made in the designing of the fabric-borders since, for example, one and the
saine thread can be employed sometimes as an edge-thread and sometimes as a

page_text: whip-thread, as shown in Fig. 16, or the edge-threads may cross the weft in a
rotary or cork-screw fashion and be fastened by a whip-thread, as shown in
Fig. 17.
Whip and embroidery threads can be made by themselves alone to produce by
their crossing, fabric-borders of novel design with serrated or scalloped contour,
border warp-threads being in this case employed in the weaving process solely as
"skeleton-threads" and being drawn out subsequently.
Figs. 18, 19, and 20 are diagrams of three different fabrics of this kind. Fig. 18
also showing the mode of production of a fabric-border of this kind composed of
whip- and embroidery-threads.
The warp-threads K', herein referred to as "skeleton-threads," cousist in this
case of wire, gut-string, or other suitable material, and their length depends upon
the resistance which they have to oppose to being prematurely pulled out from
the fabric.
The skeleton-threads are fixed at 1 to the loom (Fig. 18), and only their free
end portions 2 3 can, during the weaving, remain bound up in the portion of the
fabric that has for the time being, been last completed. As they are fixel at 1
they cannot be unwound like ordinary warp threads and thus continually pass into
new portions of the fabric, but they must continually slip out of the fabric in
proportion as the finished fabric is wound upon the cloth-beam. The skeleton-
threads thus serve merely to provide, so to speak, a ground-fabric during the
weaving in of the embroidery-threads St, the said ground-fabric consisting of the
skeleton-threads K' and the whip-threads E that act as weft. As the embroidery-
threads are to form the design by lateral movement, they must as will be readily
understood, work in front of the reed a and not be drawn through this reed; they
must also, together with the embroidery-needles, move out of the way of the stroke
of the batten; from this it will be seen that the weaving would be at best
incompletely effected without the aid of the skeleton-threads.
The whip-thread E is drawn in by the ground weft as far as the embroidery-
threads St and the skeleton-threads K' allow, and the latter are drawn out after
they have served their purpose. The embroidery-thread then lies at the desired
spot and forms the crossing with the whip-thread which acts as the weft.
Of course, the binding-up or crossing of the skeleton-threads must follow the
desired contour of the outermost edge of the fabric like the embroidery thread.
In Fig. 18, the embroidery-threads St are shown as bound only in the border of
the fabric. In the example shown in Fig. 19, the embroidery-threads work,
without reference to the limit of the border-fabric, still further into the ground or
body portion, and in the example shown in Fig. 20, the crossing of the whip-thread
coincides with that of the embroidery-thread, both on the outside and on the
inside of the fabric-border.
Obviously in this case also, many modifications of the design can be produced-
for instance by causing the embroidery-threads to combine corkscrew fashion with
one another, or by causing them to cross one another and to work relatively to one
another in different directions. The modes of weaving above described can be
used singly or in any desired combination with one another with the most varied
materials, bindings or crossings, and designs, and also with any kind of ground
fabric.
With all these modes of weaving it is often necessary to place the warp-threads
that co-operate in weaving the border, upon special bobbins, because they are
woven in to a greater or less extent than those of the remainder of the fabric, in
the former case on account of the scalloped, serrated, or other-shaped contour that
they form, and in the latter case in consequence of their floating.
Likewise, the warp-threads, or edge-threads, drawn in or whip-threads, filling-
threads, and embroidery-threads that form the border, can be slackened at
intervals, in order that they may be drawn more easily by the weft into the
requisite position.
The slackening is designed to render that length of thread ready for weaving, which

page_text: is requisite for each weaving-operation, and should be so arranged and calculated
that the winding off of the thread from the bobbin or bobbins shall not exert
any tension that would interfere with the weaving-process, upon the edge-threads,
drawn-in or whip-threads, filling-threads, and embroidery-threads already woven in
or being woven in.
Devices suitable for this purpose, which are to be applied to the loom, will
now be described with reference to weaving with drawn-in or whip threads by
way of example.
Fig. 25 shows devices of this kind applied to a loom.
The drawing-in or whip thread E is wound around a rotary bobbin o and is led
from the latter to the fabric through a perforated weight p, through a heald or
leash g, and through one of the latter, or through a tube (situated outside the
fabric) of the reed a, or by the side of the reed.
The weight pis hung from a lever which is connected by a rod w with a
lever t. The latter is under the action of a cam r, which is keyed on the
lower shafts of the loum, and the lever t is kept pressed against this cam by a
spring v.
In this manner the weight p is rendered capable of an up and down movement
which is made independent of those of the ornamental thread and of the other
warp-threads.
When the weight p is moved down into the position shown in Fig. 26, it draws
threads from the bobbin o. When it moves up again, this thread becomes slack
and is then ready for weaving upon or into the fabric, because, even if it is of
thicker material than the weft-thread, it will not offer any appreciable resistance to
being drawn along by the weft. The downward movement of the weight, necessary
for the unwinding of the thread, takes place at the times at which the reed beats
up the fabric-that is to say, when the ornamental thread is beaten up against
the fabric that is already woven and the shed is closed.
The tension produced by the descent of the weight cannot, therefore, have any
disturbing effect upon the threads that are already woven upon or into the fabric;
and so much the more so as the movement of the weight-that is to say, of the
whip-thread-is, as above stated, quite independent of that of the other threads.
The action of the weight, may, for example, be also made dependent upon the
movement of the batten, so that the batten will effect the drawing-off of the bobbin
thread during its stroke; or the weight may be hung on to the weft-fork.
Furthermore with the same object, devices may be connected with the bobbin o
such as are illustrated in various arrangements in Figs. 27 to 34 inclusive. As
shown in Figs. 27 and 28, the bobbin o, which carries the drawn-in or whip thread
or another of the aforesaid warp-threads, is placed upon a roller y, and is loaded
with a brake-weight u. A pusher-pawl z driven by a special actuating-mechanism
or from a Jacquard machine or a dobby, serves to rotate the roller y to an
adjustable extent in advance, and thereby to wind off a certain length of thread
from the bobbin o.
In the arrangement shown in Figs. 29 and 30, the thread-bobbin o lies free,
but the thread passes between two drawing-off rollers y, of which one is
actuated as before by the pusher-pawl, which has the result of drawing off the
thread from the bobbin o in opposition to the action of the weight u.
Figs. 31 and 32 show two positions of a device for slackening the thread, in
which at the same time the tension produced by drawing off the thread is
neutralized in the direction of the reed. This device comprises a lever e which is
pivoted at e' and of which one arm is under the action of a raising device, whilst
the other arm of this lever, presses upon the thread, which is drawn from the
bobbin o over a guide o¹ and a support to the leash or heald. The lever e
carries a horn e in the hollow end of which there is provided a freely movable
weight, which is limited in its movement by a stud that works in a
guiding slot.
When the lever e is in the position shown in Fig. 31, the weight j, which is held

page_text: in its lowest position by the stud j', is raised from its support. When the lever
moves into the position shown in Fig. 32, the weight comes to bear upon this
support before the lever e has finished its stroke. As the lever is then pressing
down the thread whilst the latter is nipped between the weight j and the support 3,
thread is drawn from the bobbin without its being possible for the tension that is
thereby produced to act in a forward direction-that is to say, towards the reed.
Figs. 33 and 34 illustrate another construction of this last device, in which the
mechanism is driven from the Jacquard machine. The weight p, which is
perforated for the reception of the thread, draws thread from the bobbin o as soon
as, when the weight j descends, its hole extends beyond the horizontal line passing
through the nipping support. But in the meantime, the nipping weight; which
is movably held on the weight p, has laid itself upon the support, and has made
the thread fast against the pull exerted towards the reed. Further descent of the
weight p can therefore effect the slackening of the thread only by unwinding thread
from the bobbin o. The weights may be so arranged that the nipping weight is
moved faster at the end of the lifting, so as to release the thread entirely, or both
weights may be connected by a cord with the Jacquard machine or the dobby.
In many cases these slackening devices may be dependent on the existing
treadle-mechanism, whilst in other cases, they must be moved independently
thereof.
Any greater or less action of the same that may be necessary can be produced
by connecting each separate device with separate wires of the Jacquard-machine
or of the dobby, in which case each separate wire lifts to a different height.
Dated this 16th day of May 1896.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Fabrics, and in
Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
I, HEINRICH SPIEGLER, of I Schottenbastei 11, Vienna, Austria, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
All fabrics woven with longitudinal borders have heretofore had straight outer
edges excepting woven ribbons or bands which have been provided by means of
the weft with small loops serving as ornamentation on their longitudinal edges.
Now this invention relates to woven fabrics which are, by means of the weaving-
process proper, ended off on one or on both longitudinal edges with borders, which
may be zigzagged in a rectilinear or curvilinear manner, scalloped, or otherwise
outlined according to a constantly recurring pattern and have the appearance of
being cut out, embroidered, festooned, edged by sewing, or ornamented by lace
work or otherwise, according to the weaving-process in each particular case.
Ornamental borders of these kinds can be produced on woven fabrics in manifold
ways in the weaving of the said fabrics, according as it is desired by merely
drawing in the borders to produce the desired zigzag or scalloped form in the
borders of the woven fabric, or to impart to the said borders the appearance of
being ornamented with embroidery, or produced by festooning, or ornamented with
lace work. In these latter cases, one or more threads, worked into the fabric
during the weaving-process, are employed to form the edge of the border and also
B

page_text: serve to increase the strength of the ornamental border and to prevent its
unravelling.
The configuration of the borders may be effected either by the particular mode
of weaving, or by means of special devices to be applied to the loom. In the
former case, the configuration can be produced by the crossing or intersection alone,
or by causing warp-threads to float at suitable places; in the latter case by the use
of a reed having its teeth set obliquely throughout its width or only in certain
portions thereof. The configuration may also be effected by the combination of
these modes of weaving with the aforesaid arrangement of reed.
The further development and fastening of the fabric-borders formed in this way
may be effected by the use of so-called "edge or binding threads," or by means of
"over edge stitching or figuring," or with the aid of "drawing-in or whip
threads"; also with a looped "drawing-in, whip or figuring thread" and "filling-
thread," or by the use of an embroidering-thread that acts at the same time as a
"drawing-in or whip thread," "edge thread," or "filling thread"; or, finally, with
the help of "skeleton-threads."
In many cases, the loom will have to be fitted with devices which shall allow of
the necessary slackening or looseness of the warp-threads for the purpose of
drawing-in the same in the recurring zig-zags or curves.
Figs. 1 to 20 inclusive of the drawings filed with my Provisional Specification
are diagrams of borders according to this invention woven in different ways.
Figs. 1 and 2 represent examples of borders produced by crossing alone.
Figs. 3 and 4 represent fabrics, the crossing of which may be of any desired
kind, and in which the zigzag-shaped border is formed by means of a reed with
teeth set obliquely.
Fig. 5 represents a border of this kind produced by allowing warp-threads to
float during weaving.
Fig. 6 shows an ornamental border with edge or binding threads.
Figs. 7 and 8 and Figs. 9 and 10 show ornainental borders each of which has two
edge-threads, the modes of crossing the same and the methods of producing the
ground-fabric of the border being different.
Fig. 11 illustrates the formation of the pattern of a woven border with
"figuring" or over-edge sewing.
Fig. 12 is a diagram of a border whose form is produced by using
whip-threads.
Fig. 13 shows a border with a whip thread and filling-threads, and
Fig. 14 shows a modification thereof in which a thread arranged after the
manner of an edge-thread is used as a filling-thread.
Fig. 15 shows a woven border having its outer edge bounded by a woven-in
embroidery-thread.
Figs. 16 and 17 are diagrams of woven borders in which edge-threads or
whip-threads are variously employed.
Figs. 18, 19, and 20 are diagrams of woven fabrics produced by crossing
embroidery-threads with whip-threads, with the use of border warp-threads which
serve as a frame or skeleton and can be pulled out.
Figs. 21 to 24 inclusive show loom-devices for producing woven fabrics having
round, angular, or other shaped zigzag borders with the aid of a reed having
obliquely set teeth;
Fig. 21 shows a reed in which only the border portion is formed by oblique
teeth, whilst
Fig. 22 is a front elevation and Fig. 23 a section of the mechanism of a reed all
of whose teeth are set obliquely, Fig. 24 being a section of a modification of this
mechanism.
Figs. 25 to 34 inclusive show various modified constructions of devices to be
employed on looms when weaving with whip-threads and, generally, as auxiliary
appliances for slackening the warp-threads that constitute the ornamental border of
the woven fabric.

page_text: I. WOVEN BORDER PRODUCED BY CROSSING ALONE.
In this case, in contrary distinction to the ordinary mode of crossing, which ends
off the fabric in straight lines, the crossing is effected in such a manner that the
warp-threads are drawn in more or less by the return pick in accordance with the
desired outer limiting line of the border.
Fig. 1 is a diagram of a border produced in this manner. For the sake of
simplicity, only half the border, from the outermost to the innermost point of the
curve, is shown. The first four picks S, by continually crossing, hold the warp-
threads K as far apart as possible. As the weaving progresses, this crossing
diminishes gradually, and the warp threads can therefore be drawn more and more
together by the return-pick, until finally they lie in the last six picks all together
in one weft-loop, and they then form the lowest or innermost point of the
border-figure.
Fig. 2 shows another example of a serrated border pro luced by crossing alone.
In this case also the crossing of the warp and weft threads diminishes gradually
towards the base of the serration. But this decrease does not take place merely
in the direction of the warp threads only (as in the case of Fig. 1), but, in
accordance with the intended outline of the figure, there is also woven into a loop
formed by the return pick, a number of warp-threads which increases gradually
from the outermost point of this line towards the innermost point of the same. By
this means, as all the warp-threads of the border are finally located in one line of
weft, the fabric is drawn together more and more tightly or closely by the return
pick, until the innermost point of the outline or of the border bas been reached.
II. A WOVEN BORDER PRODUCED BY MEANS OF A REED HAVING
ITS TEETH SET OBLIQUELY.
This arrangement, which is well known in weaving for other purposes, can be
used for producing the external contours of woven borders in lines of ornamental
patterns, especially in round or angular scallops or serrations, by correspondingly
shifting portions of the reed, or, it may be, of the whole of the reed, whereby the
warp-threads of the border, or the warp-threads generally, are drawn in more or
less, according as they are subjected to the action of the teeth of the reed in the
more closely set portions or in the more widely set portions of the latter.
Figs. 3 and 4 are diagrams showing, by way of example, the patterns of two
fabrics woven in this manner, the crossing of which may be of any suitable kind;
and Figs. 21 and 22 illustrate the constructions of reed for producing these
patterns of fabrics.
As shown in Fig. 21, the reed consists of two portions a and a' which, as in an
ordinary reed, abut on each other in the line of the teeth, but of which the
portion a that is designed for the body of the fabric, is fixed, and has, as usual,
teeth set at equal distances apart, whilst the portion a' that is intended for the
border-threads, is capable of being moved up and down, and has teeth which
converge downwardly. By moving the part a¹ of the reed upwardly, the teeth
come into operation where they are set closer together, with the result that the
border-threads that pass through the portion al are crowded up into a narrower
pace, and the pick made in the meantime is drawn-in more. Consequently the

page_text: fabric becomes narrower in a manner corresponding to the design selected for the
border. The opposite effect is produced by lowering the reed. It is not necessary,
however, that the distribution of the warp-threads in the reed be always effected
by passing exclusively body threads into the part a, and exclusively border-threads
into the part a¹. The movable part a' may also be employed at the same time for
both border-threads and body-threads. This will be desirable especially where, as
in large-sized designs, it is not possible to produce the difference in the width of
the desired border-design and of the fabric merely by placing the border-threads
further apart or nearer together, because in this case the threads and the teeth
would have to be moved so close up to one another as thereby to render the
weaving much more difficult.
In this case, the difference in width that is to say, the distance between the
parallel lines passing through the outermost and the innermost points of the
border-design-is advantageously spread over a portion or all of the body-
threads.
An arrangement of reed for this purpose is shown in Fig. 22, whilst Fig. 4
represents the corresponding border-design to be produced therewith.
In this reed, also the teeth are set wider apart at the top than at the bottom, but
the difference between the width at the top and the bottom is distributed uniformly
over the total number of the teeth, and consequently over a much larger space, so
that the several teeth are nowhere very close together at the bottom, (compare
Figs. 21 and 22).
The shifting of the reed is effected in both cases by means of cams or eccentrics
(hereinafter, referred to as cams) b, which are mounted on the batten and are so
formed that when they are rotated (as they are at every single, or, it may be, at
every second, third, or any other pick) the movable part a' of the reed, or the
entire reed, is moved vertically in such a manner as to cause the narrower or the
wider portion to come into operation as required.
If only one portion of the reed is to be shifted, one cam 6 is sufficient for this
purpose, as shown in Fig. 21.
The cams receive their movement from the Jacquard machine or from the
dobby, or from a special treadle-apparatus, by means of a pivoted. lever d, which,
in the arrangement shown in Figs. 22 and 23, strikes at every predetermined throw
of the batten against a stop k adjusted by the dobby or by the Jacquard machine
and thereby exerts a pushing motion upon a connecting rod a which engages by
means of a hooked spring or pawl i in a ratchet-wheel c; the arrangement may,
however, be such that, as in Fig. 24, the connecting rod g is attached to a lever d
operated by the Jacquard machine, dobby, or treadle mechanism, and during the
movement of this lever causes the advance of the cam b, from which the motion is
transmitted to the second cam (if there be such) by means of a chain ƒ (Fig. 22)
passing around wheels f¹.
b
The movable portion of the reed, or the entire movable reed, as the case may be,
is mounted in guides arranged in the batten-top land in the batten-beam m, and is
constantly pressed down upon the cam or cams by one or more springs a (Fig. 22),
or by a heavy bar n' (Figs. 23 and 24). The arrangement may however be also
such that the whole reed is movable, but only a portion thereof has obliquely set
teeth. Likewise, the cam may be mounted on a fixed part instead of on the batten,
and be arranged to move a connecting rod which oscillates in accordance with the
hatten and which in turn shifts the reed.
Obviously the cam may also be mounted above the reed and so as to shift the
latter by pressure; and, finally, the cam may also be operated by means of a chain
passing over pulleys.
With the modes of weaving herein before described there can be produced, with
suitable crossing and patterns, and with the use of border-threads of thicker or
differently coloured material, border-designs of very great variety, which will be
safe from unravelling because the same crossing can be used as in ordinary straight
borders.

page_text: II. FABRIC-BORDER PRODUCED BY LEAVING FLOATING WARP-THREADS.
With this kind of weaving, illustrated in Fig. 5, the ordinary warp-threads K
and weft-threads S of the border are bound according to any desirable pattern and
crossing, in such a manner that by leaving out and inserting binding warp-threads,
and by the more or less drawing-in or retraction of the weft of the fabric resulting
therefrom, there are produced the outlines of the desired zigzagged or scalloped
border. Thus the crossing of the ground-fabric of the border will, even in the
diagram, not be the ordinary one which is bounded by a straight outside line, but
it will diverge from this imaginary line in a direction towards the body of the
fabric. The interstices produced in this way between the several serrations in the
border-design are occupied by floating warp-threads, by cutting-out which alter
the weaving is completed, the lines of the border-design may be made to appear
clearly in view as the boundary of the fabric.
It will be readily understood that these three kinds of weaving may be
combined together in a very great variety of ways, so as to produce greatly varied
effects.
Pretty, ornamented border-designs which have the appearance of festooned,
embroidered, and laced borders, and which, when the mode of weaving referred
to under III has been employed, are secured to an increased extent against
unravelling, can be produ ed by the modes of weaving hereinafter described.
These modes of weaving are characterized by the use of one or more edge or
binding threads, by the use of over-edge-stitching or figuring with one or more
drawing-in threads in various methods of execution, or of an embroidery-thread, or
of skeleton threads.
IV. FABRIC-BORDERS WITH EDGE-THREADS.
In this case, during the progress of the weaving, the return-pick of the fabric
serves to draw one or more threads F, of any desired material, over the still
unbound warp-threads K', against each other, and to bind them in by means of the
weft threads S in such a manner that the thread or threads F follow the outermost
edge of the zigzag or otherwise shaped contour-lines, and thus constitute, so to
speak, their edge or binding threads.
The edge-thread drawn at each returu-pick of the weft against the desired
curved line, acts here, not only as an ornamental edging, but also at the same time
as a binding or protective edging for the floating warp-threads when they are cut
out after weaving, as shown diagrammatically in Fig. 6.
An edge-thread of this kind can be employed with any of the modes of weaving
herein before described. Thus, for example, in Figs. 7 and 8, two edge-threads F F
are shown, which are combined with each other with linen-crossing-that is to say,
are crossed in a manner similar to that used in weaving linen; if desired, one of
the edge-threads may be made to appear more on the top and the other thread
more on the underside of the fabric. Fig. 9 shows the application of two edge-
threads F, F to the mode of weaving described with reference to Fig. 2. Fig. 10
shows likewise two such edge-threads, which, however, are drawn sometimes ou
the upper side, and sometimes on the underside of the fabric, and which, when the
shed is being changed, pass round the floating warp-threads K¹ and draw the latter
with them against the warp threads K of the body of the fabric.
V. FABRIC-BORDERS WITH FIGURING OR OVER-EDGE STITCHING.
The fabrics described under I, II, and III may be figured or over-edge-stitched
in such a manner that the stitching of the border-line that is being produced,
follows, and also takes a part in, the weaving of the border. The crossing of the
figuring or over-edge stitching weft may be of any desired kind.

page_text: An effect similar to loop or festoon embroidery may be produced by weaving the
over-edge or figuring weft B around the warp-threads K' (see Fig. 11). There
may also be employed an edge-thread F, as shown in Fig. 11, which appears to
be woven around by the over-edging or figuring.
VI. FABRIC-BORDERS WITH WHIP-THREADS.
In this mode of weaving, the border warp-threads, or a portion thereof, in a
fabric of one of the kinds described under I, II, and III are so controlled that the
return-pick cannot cross therewith but on the contrary passes round one or more
warp-threads (herein called the whip-threads), which are drawn in next to the
fabric and which, consequently can be drawn into the fabric by the pick until the
pick is again held fast, with it, by the ordinary warp-threads by means of crossing.
The drawn-in or whip threads, which were originally warp-threads, thus become
weft-threads and act as such.
The binding of the whip thread or threads with the border warp-threads is in
this case so arranged that the external border-outline does not become straight but
assumes the desired form of round or angularly zig-zagged or other desired
pattern-lines.
Fig. 12 shows a fabric-border produced in the herein before described way with
floating warp-threads K¹ and a whip-thread E, which is drawn in by the weft S.
As will be seen, the whip-thread also forms a protecting edging.
VII. FABRIC-BORDERS WITH "LOOPING OR FESTOONING DRAWING IN OR
"
WHIP-THREADS AND WITH FILLING-THREADS.
If, in the fabric-borders described under I, II, and III, a number of warp-
threads be so controlled that they are not caught by the return weft-threads but,
on the contrary, the whip-thread is bound and drawn to the fabric by the return-
pick, going first over and then under the border warp-threads, the whip-thread
will weave around the border, being twined or looped round it. In this way there
is produced on the fabric a roll-like border woven around in a looping or festooning
manner.
This mode of weaving is illustrated in Fig. 13, in which E indicates the whip-
thread that twines, loops, or festoons in the manner stated and K' are the
warp-threads that are not caught by the weft S and act as filling-threads. Instead
of these filling-threads, or simultaneously with them, there may, however, also be
drawn in by the whip-thread, for the purpose of filling, one or more special threads
which are located, after the manner of edge-threads, in a way corresponding to the
form of the outline. Fig. 14 shows an example of this, in which E represents the
whip-thread that is woven in a looping or festooning manner and F the edge-thread
acting as a filling-thread.
VIII. FABRIC-BORDERS WITH EMBROIDERY-THREADS.
If, in the production of one of the fabrics described under I, II, and III, use be
made of the embroidery-staff, or merely of one or more embroidery-needles, then,
with the aid of one or more embroidery-threads, a fabric-border of a new kind can
be produced in which the embroidery-threads are woven-in in such a manner that
they give the impression of embroidery.
Fig. 15 is a diagram of a fabric of this kind.
In the weaving, the embroidery-thread St is moved laterally in such a manner
that it effects a crossing with the weft S not in the fabric but outside the same aud
is drawn by the return-pick in the manner of the edge or filling thread to the
fabric-edge, or in the manner of the whip-thread into the open shed until the weft
is, in a manner corresponding to the desired pattern, held fast by the crossing and
the embroidery-thread is therewith also held fast.

page_text: Fig. 15 shows how an embroidery-thread woven in this way also acts as a whip
or drawn-in thread. This embroidery-thread, however, as will be seen, takes part
in the border-formation not only as a whip-thread, but also gives up embroidery-
thread to the fabric at each of its lateral movements, so that by this means the
thickness of the weft or the embroidery-thread in the border becomes a multiple of
that of the body of the fabric.
Thus in the example shown in Fig. 15, the embroidery-thread, during each
to and fro movement of the needle, which takes place between the points 1 and 2,
gives up each time four thread-lengths to the fabric. The weaving is effected in
such a manner that after the binding or crossing of the embroidery-thread at the
point the first pick takes place, during which the embroidery-staff goes from
right to left and rises, whilst the ground or body weft, which is going from left to
right, catches the embroidery-thread and draws it, like a whip-thread, into the
fabric as a loop until the body-shed crosses, when the embroidery-staff falls and
the embroidery-thread is bound in at the points 2 and 3. Now the second pick
takes place; the embroidery-staff, which is now on the left hand, mores toward
the right and rises, the body or ground weft passes through and the embroidery-
thread is bound in at the points 4 and 5. The subsequent picks take place in the
same way and with the same effect as the first and second picks and alternate with
one another like them.
The embroidery-thread, when it serves as a whip-thread, can be bound or crossed
in different ways, and can also be employed in association with the modes of
weaving described under IV, V, and VI, or with any desired combination of the
same, and it can be worked with one or both sides of the fabric.
The aforesaid edge-threads and whip-threads enable still further modifications
to be made in the designing of the fabric-borders since, for example, one and the
same thread can be employed sometimes as an edge-thread and sometimes as a
whip-thread, as shown in Fig. 16, or the edge-threads may cross the weft in a
rotary or corkscrew fashion and be fastened by a whip-thread, as shown in
Fig. 17.
Whip and embroidery threads can be made by themselves alone to produce by
their crossing, fabric-borders of novel design with serrated or scalloped contour,
border warp-threads being in this case employed in the weaving process solely as
"skeleton-threads" and being drawn out subsequently.
Figs. 18, 19, and 20 are diagrams of three different fabrics of this kind, Fig. 18
also showing the mode of production of a fabric-border of this kind composed of
whip and embroidery threads.
The warp-threads K¹ herein referred to as "skeleton-threads," consist in this
case of wire, gut-string, or other suitable material, and their length depends upon
the resistance which they have to oppose to being prematurely pulled out from the
fabric.
The skeleton-threads are fixed at 1 to the loom (Fig. 18) and only their free
end portions 2-3 can during the weaving, remain bound up in the portion of the
fabric that has for the time being, been last completed. As they are fixed at 1,
they cannot be unwound like ordinary warp-threads and thus continually pass into
new portions of the fabric, but they must continually slip out of the fabric in
proportion as the finished fabric is wound upon the cloth-beam. The skeleton-
threads thus serve merely to provide, so to speak, a ground-fabric during the
weaving in of the embroidery-threads St, the said ground-fabric cousisting of the
skeleton-threads K' and the whip-threads E that act as weft. As the embroidery-
threads are to form the design by lateral movement, they must, as will be readily
understood, work in front of the reed a and not be drawn through this reed; they
must also together with the embroidery-needles, move out of the way of the stroke
of the batten; from this it will be seen that the weaving would be but incompletely
effected without the aid of the skeleton-threads.
The whip-thread E is drawn-in by the ground-weft as far as the embroidery-
threads Stand the skeleton-threads K' allow, and the latter are drawn out after

page_text: they have served their purpose. The embroidery-thread then lies at the desired
spot and forms the crossing with the whip-thread which acts as the weft.
Of course, the binding-up or crossing of the skeleton threads must follow the
desired contour of the outermost edge of the fabric like the embroidery thread.
In Fig. 18, the embroidery-threads St are shown as bound only in the border of
the fabric. In the example shown in Fig. 19, the embroidery-threads work,
without reference to the limit of the border-fabric, still further into the ground or
body portion, and in the example shown in Fig. 20 the crossing of the whip-thread
coincides with that of the embroidery-thread, both on the outside and on the inside
of the fabric-border.
Obviously in this case also, many modifications of the desig cann be produced-
for instance by causing the embroidery-threads to combine in corkscrew-fashion
with one another, or by causing them to cross one another and to work relatively
to one another in different directions.
The modes of weaving above described can be used singly or in any desired
combination with one another with the most varied materials, bindings or crossings,
and designs, and also with any kind of ground-fabric.
With all these modes of weaving it is often necessary to place the warp-threads
that co-operate in weaving the border, upon special bobbins, because they are woven
in to a greater or less extent than those of the remainder of the fabric, in the
former case on account of the scalloped, serrated, or other-shaped contour that
they form, and in the latter case in consequence of their floating.
Likewise, the warp-threads, or edge-threads, drawing in or whip threads, filling
threads, and embroidery-threads that form the border may be slackened at
intervals, in order that they may be drawn more easily by the weft into the
requisite position.
The slackening is designed to render that length of thread ready for weaving,
which is requisite for each weaving-operation, and should be so arranged and
calculated that the winding off of the thread from the bobbin or bobbins shall
not exert any tension that would interfere with the weaving-process, upon the
edge-threads, drawing-in or whip threads, filling-threads, and embroidery threads
already woven in or being woven in.
Devices suitable for this purpose, which are to be applied to the loom, will
now be described with reference to weaving with drawing-in or whip threads
by way of example.
Fig. 25 shows devices of this kind applied to a loom.
The drawing-in or whip-thread E is wound around a rotary bobbin o and is led
from the latter to the fabric through a perforated weight p, through a heald or
leash g, and through one of the last interstices of the reed a or through a tube
situated outside the reed.
The weight p is hung from a lever, which is connected by a rod w with a
lever t. The latter is under the action of a cam r, which is keyed on the lower
shafts of the loom, and the lever t is kept pressed against this cam by a
spring v.
In this manner the weight p is rendered capable of an up and down movement
which is made independent of those of the ornamental thread and of the other
warp-threads.
When the weight p is moved down into the position shown in Fig. 26, it draws
thread from the bobbin o. When it moves up again, this thread becomes slack
and is then ready for weaving upon or into the fabric, because, even if it is of
thicker material than the weft thread, it will not offer any appreciable resistance to
being drawn along by the weft. The downward movement of the weight,
necessary for the unwinding of the thread, takes place at the times at which the
reed beats up the fabric that is to say, when the ornamental thread is beaten up
against the fabric that is already woven and the shed is closed. The tension
produced by the descent of the weight cannot, therefore, have any disturbing
effect upon the threads that are already woven upon or into the fabric; and so

page_text: much the more so as the movement of the weight and, consequently, that of the
whip thread is, as above stated, quite independent of that of the other threads.
The action of the weight may, however, be, for example, made dependent upon
the movement of the batten, so that the batten will effect the drawing-off of the
hobbin-thread during its stroke; or the weight may be hung on to the weft-fork.
Furthermore, with the same object, devices may be connected with the bobbin o
such as are illustrated in various arrangements in Figs. 27 to 34 iuclusive.
As
shown in Figs. 27 and 28, the bobbin o, which carries the drawn-in or whip thread
or another of the aforesaid warp-threads, is placed upon a roller y, and is loaded
with a brake-weight u. A pusher-pawl driven by a special actuating-mechanism
or from a Jacquard machine or a dobby, serves to rotate the roller y forwardly to an
adjustable extent and thereby to wind off a certain length of thread from the
bobbin o.
In the arrangement shown in Figs. 29 and 30, the thread-bobbin o lies free, but
the thread passes between two drawing-off rollers y, of which one is actuated as
before by a pusher-pawl z, which has the result of drawing off the thread from the
bobbin o in opposition to the action of the weight u.
Figs. 31 and 32 show two positions of a device for slackening the thread, in
which at the same time the tension produced by drawing off the thread is neutralized
in the direction of the reed. This device comprises a lever e, which is pivoted
at e and of which one arm is under the action of a raising device, whilst the other
arm of this lever presses upon the thread, which is drawn from the bobbin o over a
guide o¹ and a support to the leash or heald. The lever e carries a horn e² in
the hollow end of which there is provided a freely movable weight j, which is
limited in its movement by a stud that works in a guiding slot.
When the lever e is in the position shown in Fig. 31, the weight j, which is held
in its lowest position by the stud 2, is raised from its support. When the lever
moves into the position shown in Fig. 32, the weight; comes to bear upon this support
before the lever e has finished its stroke. As the lever is then pressing down the
thread whilst the latter is nipped between the weight and the support, thread is
drawn from the bobbin without its being possible for the tension that is thereby
produced to act in a forward direction that is to say, towards the reed.
Figs. 33 and 34 illustrate another construction of this last device, in which the
mechanism is driven from the Jacquard machine. The weight p, which is
perforated for the reception of the thread, draws thread from the bobbin o as soon
as, when the weight j descends, its hole passes beyond the horizontal line passing
through the nipping support. But in the meantime, the nipping weight j, which
is movably held on the weight p, has laid itself upon the support, and has made
the thread fast against the pull exerted in the direction of the reed. Further
descent of the weight p can therefore effect the slackening of the thread only by
unwinding thread from the bobbin o. The weights may be so arranged that the
nipping weight is moved faster at the end of the lifting, so as to release the thread
entirely, or cach weight may be separately connected by a cord with the
Jacquard machine or the dobby.
In many cases these slackening devices may be dependent on the existing
treadle-mechanism, whilst in other cases they must be moved independently
thereof.
Any greater or less action of the same, that may be necessary can be produced
by connecting each separate device with separate wires of the Jacquard machine
or of the dobby, in which case each separate wire lifts to a different height.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A woven fabric whose edges are woven of a recurring or repeated form such
as zig-zagged in a rectilinear or curvilinear manner, scalloped, or otherwise outlined
according to a recurring or repeated pattern or design, those parts located between

page_text: the said edges and the body portion of the fabric being according to the manner
of the weaving either wholly or partly plain or ornamented in festoon, embroidery,
or lace like fashion.
2. The method of producing fabrics with edges of the kind referred to in the
preceding claim according to which the border warp-threads are, to the extent
determined by the external contour of the border, bound in by the weft with
increasing and decreasing crossing and are thereby in some places held further
apart and in others brought nearer together, substantially as hereinbefore described
with reference to the examples illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings.
3. The modified method of producing fabrics with edges of the kind referred to in
Claim 1, wherein the drawing together and opening of the border warp-threads,
and, it may be, also of some or all of the body warp-threads, are effected by
shifting a reed with obliquely set teeth, substantially as hereinbefore described with
reference to the examples illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4 of the drawings.
4. The modified method of producing fabrics with edges of the kind referred
to in Claim 1, which consists in causing the warp-threads to a suitable extent to
cease crossing, to float, and then again to begin crossing, whether or not the
floating warp-thread parts be subsequently cut out, substantially as hereinbefore
described with reference to the example illustrated in Fig. 5 of the drawings.
5. In a woven fabric of the kind referred to in Claim 1 and having a border
made according to Claim 2, or Claim 3, or Claim 4, weaving-in one or more edge-
threads F, which during the weaving lie over other border warp-threads,
substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the several examples
illustrated in Figs. 6 to 10 of the drawings.
6. In a woven fabric of the kind referred to in Claim 1 and having a border
made according to Claim 2, or Claim 3, or Claim 4, figuring or over-edge stitching
by a figuring or over-edge weft B, whether or not the border warp-threads K¹ be
woven round, substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the example
illustrated in Fig. 11 of the drawings.
7. In a woven fabric of the kind referred to in Claim 1 and having
a border
made according to Claim 2, or Claim 3, or Claim 4, weaving-in one or more whip or
drawing-in warp-threads E, substantially as hereinbefore described with reference
to the example illustrated in Fig. 12 of the drawings.
8. In a woven fabric of the kind referred to in Claim 1 and having a border
made according to Claim 2, or Claim 3, or Claim 4, weaving-in one or more whip
or drawing-in threads E that weave round, so as to embrace, a number of border
warp-threads K¹ or edge-threads F, or both, whether or not the embraced threads
act as filling-threads, substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the
example illustrated in Fig. 13 or Fig. 14 of the drawings.
9. In a woven fabric of the kind referred to in Claim I and having a border
made according to Claim 2, or Claim 3, or Claim 4, weaving-in a thread St, which
works in the fabric as an embroidery-thread, whether or not the said thread also
act as a whip or drawing-in, edge, or filling thread, substantially as hereinbefore
described with reference to the example illustrated in Fig. 15 of the drawings.
10. In a woven fabric of the kiud referred to in Claim 1 and having a border
made according to Claim 2, or Claim 3, or Claim 4, weaving-in embroidery-
threads St in a woven-fabric border formed of whip or drawing-in threads E and
of skeleton warp-threads K', which are to be drawn out after the whip or
drawing-in threads have crossed with the embroidery-threads, substantially as
hereinbefore- described with reference to the example illustrated in Figs. 18, 19,
or 20 of the drawings.
11. In the manufacture of a woven fabric of the kind referred to in Claim 1,
loosening one of the warp-threads drawn upon for border-forming, by means of a
weight p that can rise and fall independently of the remaining warp-threads as
described with reference to Fig. 25, or by means of a ratchet device y z as
described with reference to Figs. 27 and 28 or to Figs. 29 and 30, or by means of
a levere with a freely falling, adjustable clamping weight as described with

page_text: reference to Figs. 31 and 32, or by means of a weight p and clamping-weight jas
described with reference to Figs. 33 and 34, which arrangements draw off during
their operation at suitable times from a bobbin o the lengths of thread necessary
for the weaving-on or weaving-in for the time being of the corresponding thread
and which at the same time prevent the resulting tension from passing in the
direction of the reed.
For the Applicant,
W. LLOYD WISE,
46 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Chartered Patent Agent.

page_text: K