Apparatus for Measuring and for Guidance in Cutting Out Garments.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 28th June, 1893-Accepted, 29th July, 1893
COMI DVID DT MOITIATION
Apparatus for Measuring and for Guidance in Cutting Out
Garments.
I JULIUS WIESE, Cutter of 140 Steinstrasse Hamburg in the Empire of
Germany, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
According to this invention the measurements of the body necessary for the
cutting out of an article of wearing apparel are obtained at once by a mechanical
arrangement applied to the body which said arrangement when laid on a flat
surface and its outline traced in chalk gives a true flat copy of the desired garment.
This process in combination with the apparatus necessary thereto enables
irregularly moulded forms to be much more truly reduced to a flat surface for
the purpose of cutting out, and renders unnecessary the production of paper cutting
patterns and the like.
To carry out this invention it is necessary to use very pliable and elastic frames
which consist of a number of steel bands jointed together. A combination of
such bands has in its outer edges the form of a certain part of the garment to be
made.
On the annexed drawing:
Figures 1 and 2 represent for example, the frame for the front part of a coat,
whilst Figure 3 shows the application of the frame shown in Figures 1 and 2 to the
body.
The ends of the straight or curved bands a where they meet together at the
angles form joints which are connected by diagonal bands d to a central point. At
this central point is a clamping screws which permits the fixing of the diagonal
bands and thereby also of the outer bands a. The separate parts of the bands slide
over each other and are adjustable in guides fof which several are arranged at
certain distances on one of two complementary parts of a hand. A movement of
the diagonal bands is allowed by means of slits i therein.
By means of the described arrangement of the measuring frame the same can be
enlarged by each point of the outer edge being moved outwards. In a similar
manner a reduction in size is effected. Figure 2 shows an enlargement of the
frame shown in Figure 1. The taking of the measurements and shape of a given
part of the body by means of this apparatus is effected by the clamping screw
being sufficiently released to allow of the cross pieces being movable in the slots.
The frame is then laid on the required portion of the body and the bands a
adjusted as desired on placing the joints at points previously decided upon. The
raised parts of the body will consequently necessitate a lengthening, and the
receding parts a shortening, of the bands. When all the parts of the frame are
properly adjusted their relative position to each other is fixed by screwing up the
clamp screw s, the frame is lifted away, and its shape is taken on a flat surface.
the latter consists of the material the piece can be at once cut out to correspond
with the frame. Several frames can be connected together in such manner as to
form a kind of jacket of which the separate parts can be adjusted as described, so
that the measurement of several parts of the body can be taken at the same time.
If
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
A frame for the use of tailors in measuring and cutting out, consisting of flexible
measuring bands a adjustable in their length, jointed together, and corresponding

page_text: to the body to be measured, the said joints of which are connected by cross bands
to a central point of the frame so that when measuring the required length and
positions of the measuring bands may be fixed by means of a single clamping
screw s arranged at the common central point of the cross bands substantially as
described.
Dated this 27th day of June 1893.
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.