DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION
Year: 1868

page_text: DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION proposed to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office by the said JOHN GODDARD,
Assignee of the said Letters Patent as aforesaid.
WHEREAS in the Specification of the said Letters Patent are described
an improved manufacture of hats from pulped fibres, also machinery or
apparatus for manufacturing the same, also the making of hats from a
mixture of vegetable pulp and animal fibres, also a mode of drying
hats so made And whereas the Specification as it now stands may be

page_text: understood to claim, as being of the Invention of the Patentee, the use
of the combined mixture of vegetable pulp and animal fibres in the
making of hats, and also the method described of drying hats so made:
And whereas I have since the said Letters Patent were assigned to me
ascertained that such claims could not properly be made by reason that
the matters so claimed, or purporting to be claimed, were not new at the
date of the said Letters, or were not the proper subject-matter on which
valid claims could be founded: And whereas it is not necessary in all
cases to use the said mixture of vegetable pulp and animal fibre. Now
therefore I am desirous of disclaiming, and do disclaim, as herein-after
stated, the use of the said mixture of vegetable pulp and animal fibre,
and also the said method of drying hats, as forming part of the said
Disclaimer, and make clear the description of the said
^
Invention respectively; and in order to give effect to the said Invention
as intended to be claimed, I amend and alter the said Specification in
manner following, that is to say:-I strike out from the first claiming
clause the words "by combining animal fibre with vegetable pulped
"fibre." I also strike out the third claiming clause. I also disclaim
Sheet 3 of the Drawings; and I further amend and alter the said Speci-
fication referring to the Queen's Printer's copy thereof, published at the
striking out the word "three" in line 27 of page 8 of the said copy, and in place thereof inserting the word "two." I also
Great Seat Patent Office in 1868, by insert after the words "in the
"air then," and before the word "introducing" in line 37 of page 8 of
the said copy the words "in some cases." In line 13 of page 9 of the
said copy I insert after the words "pulping substance" the words "of a
fibrous character." I also strike out the word "is" in line 17 of the
said print, and in place thereof I insert the words "may be." I also
strike out in line 12 of page 10 of the said printed copy the words "the
"
object of introducing," and the following words down to and including
the word "strength" in line 28 of the same page. I also strike out in
linc 15 of page 14 of the said print the words "to this end," and the
following words down to and including the word "dried" in line 26 of
the same page, and in place thereof I insert the words "and then
finish it by pressure applied in the ordinary way. I make no claim
generally to the manufacture of hats from pulped fibres, nor is any
"claim made to the employment of suction in such manufacture, except
"when a measured quantity of pulped fibres sufficient to form the
"intended object, and mixed with a considerable proportion of water,
is introduced into the apparatus, and filtered from the water for each
operation of forming a hat as herein-before described." Also, in order
66
"

page_text: to correct certain slight clerical errors in the said Specification and
Drawings, I strike out the letter and figure "" in line 31 of page 13
of the said print, and in place thereof I insert the letter and figure "."
I also strike out the letter and figure y' and the word "lower" in
line 4 of page 14 of the said print, and in place thereof respectively I
insert the letter and figure "" and the word "upper." And I amend
the Drawings originally filed with the Specification by marking the
letters of reference thereon so as to correspond with the written descrip-
tion, namely, I strike out the small letter "c" upon the "former" in
Figure 2 of the said original Drawings, and in place thereof I insert the
capital letter "C." I also strike out the letter "i" upon the "forked.
arm " in Figure 3 of the said Drawings, and in place thereof I insert
the letter "." I also strike out the letter and figure"" upon the
"rim coucher" in Figure 3 of the said Drawings, and in place thereof
I insert the letter and figure "." I also insert the letter ""
upon the
upper platform" in Figure 3 of the said Drawings; I also insert the
letter and figure"" upon the "rod" in Figure 3 of the said Drawings
I also insert the letter and figure "w" upon the "shipping lever" ir
Figures 3 and 6 of the said Drawings; I also strike out the letter and
figure "e" upon the "arm of the rock shaft" in Figure 4 of the said
Drawings, and in place thereof I insert the letter and figure "c¹." I
also insert the letter small "c" upon the "vertical cylinder" in Figures 4
and 7 of the said Drawings; I also insert the letter "i" upon the "pipe'
in Figures 4 and 7 of the said Drawings; I also insert the letter and
figure "o" upon the "adjustable collar" in Figure 4 of the said
Drawings; I also insert the letter "p" upon the "shaft" in Figures 4
I also insert the letter "u" upon the pulley in Figure 4 of the sald Drawings.
Λ
"
33
and 6 of the said Drawings. I also insert the letter " y upon the
"sliding" ""rod" in Figures 4 and 6 of the said Drawings; I also insert
the letter and figure "g" upon the "arm" in Figure 6 of the said
Drawings. I also strike out the letter "i" upon the "valve" in Figure 7
of the said Drawings, and in place thereof I insert the letter "." I also
insert the letter "6" upon the "upper platform" in Figure 7 of the said
Drawings. I also insert the letter "" upon the "branch" in Figure 7
of the said Drawings. And the said Specification when disclaimed,
altered, and amended will read as follows, and the Drawings as amended
will be in the form as annexed:-
NOW KNOW YE, that I the said George Kellogg, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be

page_text: performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying
two Sheets of Drawings (that is to say)
=
This Invention relates to a peculiar formation of hats and coating for
hat bodies, and machinery for accomplishing the same, and consists in
taking vegetable pulp, whether perfectly dry or in the partially fluid
condition in which it is usually employed for commencing to form
it into sheets of paper in paper-making machinery, and then mixing
the same with a sufficient quantity of water (say, in the proportion of
50 to 80 parts, or thereabouts, of water to one of pulp) in order to
entirely separate the fibres from each other that they may all be diffused
through the water, similarly to the manner in which particles or moetes
float in the air, then in some cases introducing into the same animal
fibre, such as wool, and from this mixture forming a hat body by placing
the mixture into a vessel above a former constructed from perforated
metal or other suitable permeable material, constantly agitating the
mixture to preserve the above-stated condition, then by suction from
below or pressure above, forcing the water through the former, leaving
the fibrous mixture thoroughly mingled and packed in sufficient quantity
to form the body. In this description the term hat is used to include
bonnets and many other coverings for the head.
That others skilled in the art may be enabled to thus produce hat
bodies I will proceed to describe the manner of so doing, employing
the apparatus illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying
Drawings.
Apparatus better adapted for manufacturing purposes than this shewn
in Figures 1 and 2 will be more explained hereafter.
A pulp is first prepared from any vegetable pulping substance of a
fibrous character in the usual manner as for the manufacture of paper,
and after reducing this to a very liquid state by the introduction of
water in about 50 to 80 times the quantity used for the manufacture of
paper, as above stated animal fibre may be introduced, preferring wool,
equal in quantity, say, to about one of wool to 5 of pulp; this fibre is
thoroughly intermixed with the above, and thus prepared the mixture
is ready for use for the formation of the hat.
The apparatus shewn in Figures 1 and 2 consists of a cylinder A
provided with a plunger ring a which fits closely in the cylinder and is
moved up or down therein by a handle B. On the plunger ring a hat

page_text: former C is placed, this should be in the form of the hat required to be
produced, and is made of woven wire, or may be of metal finely per-
forated, and so that but little of the metal will remain; this former is
raised with the plunger ring.
To form a body entire I pour the thoroughly mixed compound before
described into the cylinder above the former C, then slowly but steadily
raise the plunger, which would, were it not for the perforations in the
former, create a vacuum below, but the water passes through the
perforations, which are so small that the mixed compound does not pass
through, the mixture remaining above is closely packed upon the former,
the mixture following the current formed by the passage of the water
through the former to different parts of the body until it is completed
and evenly covered. I thus continue to raise the former, and continue
agitation of the mixture to prevent separation and secure diffusion until
the body is drawn entirely from the water, that is, until the water has
all passed below, continuing the upward movement of the hat air will
pass down through it to supply the space left below the ascending body,
the tendency of which is to press the water from and dry the body. The
extent of this drying depends upon the length of the cylinder, which
may be sufficient to completely dry the body; if not made long enough
to dry the body remove it from the former and dry it in any convenient
and suitable manner. The body is then complete and ready to receive
the finishing operations of lining, binding, &c. I find the best and most
successful manner of removing the hat from the former to be to suddenly
reverse the plunger, giving it a quick downward movement, the air from
below forcing the body from the former.
I have described this Invention thus far as forming the body entire,
but the same process may be employed to coat a body formed of
"foundation" or similar material. To do this place the foundation body
upon the former and operate as described for forming the hat body.
This last class of hats may be coated only upon one side, or after one
side has been coated the former may be reversed and the other side
be coated in like manner.
By the mechanism which I have described for my process the natural
pressure of the atmosphere is all that I employ, and practically all that
is required, yet the process may be facilitated by increasing the pressure
either upon the mixture above the former or by suction from below.

page_text: I will now proceed to describe the complete machine which I employ
in the production of the hat which I have described, referring to
Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7.
In the accompanying Drawings a represents a suitable frame on the
upper platform of which is mounted a vertical cylinder c, open at the
upper end, and to this cylinder is fitted a piston d properly packed so as
to work therein water-tight or nearly so. The piston is a ring connected
by brackets e with a cylindrical piston rod fitted to slide in a hole in
the bottom of the cylinder, provided with a packing box of the usual
construction, and to the upper surface of this annular piston is secured
the flat rim of the pervious or wire gauze former g, see Figure 5, whilst
the body thereof extends into and through the annulus. The inside and
the upper rim of the said former should be of the form of the outside of
the hat or other article to be made therein. In the bottom of the
cylinder there is a hole h, to which is fitted one end of a pipe i, the other
end of which is provided with a stop-cock for the discharge of water
from the inside of the cylinder when it becomes desirable to clean out
the cylinder; and from this pipe a branch extends up about two-thirds
the height of the cylinder where it is bent over and provided with a
valve, which when open permits the accumulation of water in the
cylinder above the level of the said discharge pipe to escape, but as
the said pipe communicates with the bottom of the cylinder all the
water which escapes has passed through the meshes or perforations
of the former, and the fibres have been deposited in the former. The
piston rod fis hollow for a considerable distance from the lower end,
and threaded to receive a thread shaft m, the lower journal of which
is fitted to turn in a step. This shaft is provided with a bevel cog
wheel n, which is turned by a corresponding bevel wheel o on a shaft p,
on which two belt pulleys q and turn freely by belts and t from
pulleys u, u, on the driving shaft v, and the belt & is crossed so that the
two pulleys q, r, rotate in opposite directions. A clutch w is feathered
in the usual manner, so that it will turn with but be free to slide on the
shaft p, so that it can be made to clutch either of the pulleys q or r to
the shaft p.
The driving shaft being turned in the direction of the
arrow by any suitable motor if the pulley be clutched to the shaft p
will be rotated in the direction of the arrow, and this will by the turning
of the threaded shaft m clevate the piston, and when the clutch is
reversed and the pulley q is clutched to the shaft the motions will be
reversed and the piston drawn down. The shifting of the clutch is
3'
it

page_text: is
^
effected by a shipping lever w¹ which turns upon a fulcrum pin x, the
lower end of which lever is received in a mortise in a sliding rod y,
provided with a forked arm which is fitted to a groove in the sliding
clutch w. In this way whilst the driving shaft vis rotated by shifting
the position of the shipping lever, the threaded shaft can be turned in
either direction to lift or depress the piston to be stopped at the will of
the attendant. The stem of the valve in the discharge branch pipe k
is provided with an arm a¹ connected by a rod b¹ with an arm c¹ of a
rock shaft d', which has an arm e² attached to a spring f¹, the tension of
which keeps the valve closed, but as soon as the piston and pervious
former have been elevated to the required height an arm g' on the piston
rod comes into contact with and lifts the arm e¹ of the rock shaft, and
this by the connections described opens the valve to permit the escape
of the surplus water in the cylinder, and at the same time the said arm
acts on a cam-like projection ¹ on the shipping lever w¹, which unclutches
the shaft p, and then by moving the said lever by hand a little farther
the shaft is clutched by the other pulley, and the piston drawn down,
the arm gliberates the arm e¹ of the rock shaft d', and the valve / is
then closed by the tension of the spring f¹. To the lower end of the
rod is secured what I denominate a couching pad , it is a hollow
vessel made by preference of vulcanized india-rubber water-tight, and
nearly filled with water or other liquid, and the outer surface covered
with woollen cloth, such as is used by paper-makers for couching paper
pulp. Above this couching pad there is a concave disc j¹ secured to the
lower end of the rod , but of less concavity than the convex form of the
upper part of the pad to permit the said pad to spread a little when
the lower portion of it meets with resistance. The rod is also provided
with three (more or less) spring arms c', to the outer ends of which is
secured a ring corresponding with the rim of the former, and which I
denominate the rim coucher, the under surface of which is also covered
with couching cloth. The rod i is fitted to slide freely in a hole in a
boss m pivotted to the upper end of a standard n', so that when the
couching pad is elevated above the upper end of the cylinder the boss
can be turned to one side to admit of removing for repairs or otherwise.
The rod near the upper end is provided with an adjustable collar o', so
that weights fitted to the upper end of the rod may rest on it. Holes
are formed through the rod i at different parts of its length to receive a
pin p' to act as a stop to prevent the couching pad from rising beyond
the desired height. Other equivalent means may be substituted for the

page_text: said pin and holes.
Water is to be put in the cylinder to the height
of the discharge pipe and the piston with the former let down to its
lowest position. The prepared fibres thoroughly mixed in water like
pulp for making paper and sufficient in quantity to make a hat or other
article is poured into the cylinder above the former, where the fibres will
be diffused in the water previously in the cylinder and above the former.
The shipping lever is then moved by the attendant to clutch the
pulley and the piston with its former then begins to rise. The water
in the cylinder filters through the meshes of the former and deposits the
fibres on the rim and inner surface of the former, and when the piston
has risen to such a height that the quantity of fibre deposited on the
surface of the former is sufficient to produce the required thickness for
the tip of the hat the central portion of it comes into contact with the
lower portion of the couching pad , which is made of greater convexity
than the concavity of the former, but which, being hollow, of flexible
material, and containing a liquid, will yield to the pressure and gradually
spread out by the continued rising of the piston, thereby gradually
making pressure on the deposited fibres. The pressure in this way is
made first at the tip and gradually spreads out all around, thereby
couching or laying the fibres from the centre to the circumference, the
layer of fibre gradually increasing from the tip to the rim until finally
the fibres which have accumulated to a greater thickness on the rim
of the former are there couched by coming in contact with the under
surface of the couching annulus pad . All this time the couching
operation has been performed by the rising of the piston and former
against the weight of the couching pad and the rod to which it is
attached, and such additional weight as may be found necessary, but at
the end of the couching operation the rod is stopped by the pin p
striking against the top of the boss m³ of the standard n', and the piston
being raised a little morc a very considerable pressure is brought to bear
on the couched fibres, which are thereby consolidated. At this time the
arm on the piston rod lifts the arm e¹ of the rock shaft, opens the
valve, which permits the discharge from the cylinder of the water which
was put in with the fibres and the said arm at the same time acts on a
cam-like projection on the upper end of the shipping lever w¹ by which
the shaft P is unclutched, by which the further rising of the piston is
foregoing operations the fibres have become so consolidated that the
^
stopped. By the fabric so formed is practically impervious, and as it
is necessary to remove it from the former without injury the shipping

page_text: lever is moved to clutch the shaft p to the pulley q which causes the
piston to descend into the cylinder, and as the upper part of the cylinder
was filled with air while the former was elevated the resistance of the
air liberates the hat from the former so that it can be readily taken out.
The shape of the former is to be suited to the article which is to be made.
After the hat has been removed from the machine it is better to dry it as
quickly as possible and then finish it by pressure applied in the ordinary
way. I make no claim generally to the manufacture of hats from pulped
fibres, nor is any claim made to the employment of suction in such
manufacture, except when a measured quantity of pulped fibres sufficient
to form the intended object and mixed with a considerable proportion of
water is introduced, for each operation of forming a hat, as herein-before
described.
into the apparatus and filtered from the water
Having thus fully described my Invention, what I claim as new and
useful and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,―
First. The manufacture of hats, hat bodies, and other articles, sub-
stantially as hercin set forth and described.
Secondly. I claim the arrangement and combination of machinery for
the manufacture or production of hats and hat bodies from pulped fibrous
materials, in the manner herein described and shown in the accompanying
Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Goddard, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-second day of May, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one.
JNO.
ODDARD, J. (L.S.)
To the Clerk of the Patents for Inventions.
I hereby grant my fiat giving leave to the above-named John Goddard
to filo in the Great Seal Patent Office with the Specification to which
the same relates, the above-written Disclaimer and Memorandum of
Alteration
I hereby grant my fiat giving leave to the above-named John Goddard
to filo in the Great Seal Patent Office with the Specification to which
the same relates, the above-written Disclaimer and Memorandum of
Alteration

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Kellogg, of New York, United States
of America, at present temporarily residing at Edward's Hotel,
George Street, in the County of Middlesex, for the Invention
of IMPROVEMENTS IN HATS, BONNETS, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE
HEAD, AND IN MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME."-A communi-
cation from abroad by Henry Kellogg, of New Haven, United
States of America.
Sealed the 27th March 1868, and dated the 27th January 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Kellogg at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 27th January 1868.
I, GEORGE KELLOGG, of New York, United States of America, at
present temporarily residing at Edward's Hotel, George Street, in the
County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN HATS, BONNETS, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD,
AND IN MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME," a communication to me
from abroad by Henry Kellogg, of New York, United States of America,
to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a peculiar formation of hats and coating
for hat bodies and machinery for accomplishing the same, and consists

page_text: in taking vegetable pulp, whether perfectly dry or in the partially fluid
condition in which it is usually employed for commencing to form it
into sheets of paper in paper-making machinery, and then mixing the
same with a sufficient quantity of water (say in the proportion of 50
to 80 parts or thereabouts of water to one of pulp) in order to entirely
separate the fibres from each other, they may all be diffused through
the water similarly to the manner in which particles or motes float in
the air, then introducing into the same animal fibre, such as wool,
and from this mixture forming a hat body by placing the mixture into
a vessel above a "former" constructed of perforated metal or other
suitable permeable material, constantly agitating the mixture to preserve
the above-stated condition, then by suction from below or pressure
above, forcing the water through the former, leaving the fibrous mixture
thoroughly mingled and packed in sufficient quantity to form the body.
In this description the term hat is used to include bonnets and many
other coverings for the head.
That others skilled in the art may be enabled thus produce hat
bodies I will proceed to describe the manner of so doing, employing
the apparatus illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 of the accompanying Drawings.
Apparatus better adapted for manufacturing purposes than this
shewn in Figs. 1 and 2 will be more fully explained hereafter.
A pulp is first prepared from any vegetable pulping substance in the
usual manner as for the manufacture of paper, and after reducing
this to a very liquid state by the introduction of water in about 50 to
80 times the quantity used for the manufacture of paper, as above
stated animal fibre is introduced, preferring wool, equal in quantity,
say, to about one of wool to five of pulp; this fibre is thoroughly
intermixed with the above, and thus prepared the mixture is ready for
use for the formation of the hat.
The apparatus shewn in Figs. 1 and 2 consists of a cylinder A
provided with a plunger ring a which fits closely in the cylinder and
is moved up or down therein by a handle B. On the plunger ring a
hat frame C is placed; this should be in the form of the hat required
to be produced and is made of woven wire, or may be of metal finely
perforated, and so that but little of the metal will remain; this former
is raised with the plunger ring.
To form a body entire I pour the thoroughly mixed compound before
described into the cylinder above the former C, then slowly but steadily

page_text: raise the plunger, which would were it not for the perforations in the
former create a vacuum below, but the water passes through the
perforations, which are so small that the mixed compound does not
pass through; the mixture remaining above is closely packed upon the
former, the mixture following the current formed by the passage of
the water through the former to different parts of the body until it is
completed and evenly covered. I thus continue to raise the former
and continue agitation of the mixture to prevent separation and secure
diffusion until the body is drawn entirely from the water, that is, until
the water has all passed below, continuing the upward movement of
the hat; air will pass down through it to supply the space left below
the ascending body, the tendency of which is to press the water from
and dry the body; the extent of this drying depends upon the length
of the cylinder, which may be sufficient to completely dry the body. If
not made long enough to dry the body remove it from the former and
dry it in any convenient and suitable manner; the body is then
complete and ready to receive the finishing operations of lining and
binding. I find the best and most successful manner of removing the
hat from the former to be to suddenly reverse the plunger, giving it a
quick downward movement, the air from below forcing the body from
the former. The objects of introducing the animal fibre are, first, that
without this fibre the perforations in the former must necessarily be
very fine in order to prevent the vegetable fibres from passing through,
and being so fine this vegetable fibre is packed so solidly upon the
former that practically the water will not pass through it, therefore the
fibre falls upon the former and remains in masses solidly and unevenly
packed thereon. By the introduction of the animal fibre the particles
of vegetable fibre are held slightly apart in suspension as it were, the
fibre more readily following the currents in the water and leading the
mixed fibre to those portions of the body where the water most freely
passes until the whole is evenly covered. The animal fibre after the
body is formed serves to very much strengthen the body by uniting the
particles in like manner as the hair used in plastering mortar unites
the particles of lime and sand, and as in plastering without the hair,
possesses also less strength, so in forming the hat body without the
animal fibre the body must be very thin and comparitively of less
strength.
I have described this Invention thus far as forming the body entire,
but the same process may be employed to coat a body formed of

page_text: "foundation" or similar material. To do this place the foundation
body upon the former and operate as described for forming the hat
body. This last class of hats may be coated only upon one side, or
after one side has been coated the former may be reversed and the
other side be coated in like manner.
By the mechanism which I have described for my process the natural
pressure of the atmosphere is all that I employ, and practically all that
is required, yet the process may be facilitated by increasing the pressure
either upon the mixture above the former or by suction from below.
I will now proceed to describe the complete machine which I employ
in the production of the hat which I have described, referring to Figs. 3,
4, 5, 6, and 7.
In the accompanying Drawings a represents a suitable frame, on the
upper platform 6 of which is mounted a vertical cylinder c open at the
upper end, and to this cylinder is fitted a piston d properly packed so
as to work therein water-tight or nearly so. The piston is a ring con-
nected by brackets e with a cylindrical piston rod f, fitted to slide in
a hole in the bottom of the cylinder provided with a packing box of
the usual construction, and to the upper surface of this annular piston
is secured the flat rim of the pervious or wire gauze former g, see Fig. 5,
whilst the body thereof extends into and through the annulus. The inside
and the upper rim of the said former should be of the form of the outside
of the hat or other article to be made therein. In the bottom of the
cylinder there is a hole h, to which is fitted one end of a pipe i, the other
end of which is provided with a stop-cock j for the discharge of water
from the inside of the cylinder when it becomes desirable to clean out
the cylinder, and from this pipe a branch k extends up about two-thirds
the height of the cylinder, where it is bent over and provided with a
valve, which when open permits the accumulation of water in the
cylinder above the level of the said discharge pipe to escape, but as the
said pipe communicates with the bottom of the cylinder all the water
which escapes has passed through the meshes or perforations of the
former, and the fibres have been deposited in the former. The piston
rod is hollow for a considerable distance from the lower end, and
threaded to receive a thread shaft m, the lower journal of which is fitted
to turn in a step. This shaft is provided with a bevel cog wheel n,
which is turned by a corresponding bevel wheel o on a shaft p, on which
two belt pulleys q and turn freely by belts & and t from pulleys u, u,

page_text: on the driving shaft v, and the belt s is crossed so that the two pulleys
q, r, rotate in opposite directions. A clutch is feathered in the usual
manner so that it will turn with but be free to slide on the shaft p, so
that it can be made to clutch either of the pulleys q or to the shaft p.
The driving shaft v being turned in the direction of the arrow by any
suitable motor, if the pulley be clutched to the shaft p it will be
rotated in the direction of the arrow, and this will by the turning of
the threaded shaft m elevate the piston, and when the clutch is reversed
and the pulley q is clutched to the shaft the motions will be reversed,
and the piston drawn down. The shifting of the clutch is effected by
a shipping lever c', which turns upon a fulcrum pin a, the lower end of
which lever is received in a mortise in a sliding rod y, provided with
a forked arm z, which is fitted to a groove in the sliding clutch w. In
this way whilst the driving shaft is rotated by shifting the position of
the shipping lever, the threaded shaft can be turned in either direction
to lift or depress the piston, or be stopped at the will of the attendant.
The stem of the valve in the discharge branch pipe is provided with
an arm a', connected by a rod b' with an arm c¹ of a rock shaft d', which
has an arm e¹ attached to a spring, the tension of which keeps the
valve closed, but as soon as the piston and pervious former have been
elevated to the required height an arm g¹ on the piston rod f comes into
contact with and lifts the arm e¹ of the rock shaft, and thus by the con-
nections described opens the valve to permit the escape of the surplus
water in the cylinder, and at the same time the said arm acts on a
cam-like projection on the shipping lever w¹, which unclutches the
shaft p, and then by moving the said lever by hand a little further the
shaft is clutched by the other pulley and the piston is drawn down,
the arm gliberates the arm e' of the rock shaft d', and the valve lis
then closed by the tension of the spring f. To the lower end of the
rod is secured what I denominate a couching pad. It is a hollow
vessel, made by preference of vulcanized india-rubber, water-tight, and
nearly filled with water or other liquid, and the outer surface covered
with woollen cloth, such as is used by paper makers for couching paper
pulp. Above this couching pad there is a concave disc j¹ secured to the
lower end of the rod i¹, but of less concavity than the convex form of
the upper part of the pad to permit the said pad to spread a little when
the lower portion of it meets with resistance. The rod is also provided
with three (more or less) spring arms ¹, to the outer ends of which
is secured a ring corresponding with the rim of the former, and which
1

page_text: I denominate the rim coucher, the under surface of which is also covered
with couching cloth. The rod is fitted to slide freely in a hole in
a boss m¹ pivoted to the upper end of a standard n', so that when the
couching pad is elevated above the upper end of the cylinder the boss
can be turned to one side to admit of removing for repairs or otherwise.
The rod near the upper end is provided with an adjustable collar o',
so that weights fitted to the upper end of the rod may rest on it. Holes
are formed through the rod at different parts of its length to receive
a pin p¹ to act as a stop to prevent the couching pad from rising beyond
the desired height. Other equivalent means may be substituted for
the said pin and holes. Water is to be put in the cylinder to the height
of the discharge pipe k, and the piston with the former let down to its
lowest position. The prepared fibres thoroughly mixed in water, like
pulp for making paper, and sufficient in quantity to make a hat or other
article, is poured into the cylinder above the former where the fibres
will be diffused in the water previously in the cylinder and above the
former. The shipping lever is then moved by the attendant to
clutch the pulley ", and the piston with its former then begins to rise.
The water in the cylinder filters through the meshes of the former, and
deposits the fibres on the rim and inner surface of the former, and
when the piston has risen to such a height that the quantity of fibres
deposited on the surface of the former is sufficient to produce the
required thickness for the tip of the hat the central portion of it comes
couching pad j, which is
into contact with the lower portion of the
made of greater convexity than the concavity of the former, but which
being hollow, of flexible material, and containing a liquid will yield to
the pressure, and gradually spread out by the continued rising of the
piston, thereby gradually making pressure on the deposited fibres. The
pressure in this way is made first at the tip, and gradually spreads out
all around, thereby couching or laying the fibres from the centre to the
circumference, the layer of fibres gradually increasing from the tip to
the rim, until finally the fibres which have accumulated to a greater
thickness on the rim of the former are there couched by coming in
contact with the under surface of the couching annulus pad 1. All
this time the couching operation has been performed by the rising of
the piston and former against the weight of the couching pad, and the
rod to which it is attached and such additional weight as may be found
necessary, but at the end of the couching operation the rod is stopped
by its pin p striking against the top of the boss m² of the standard n',

page_text: and the piston being raised a little more a very considerable pressure
is brought to bear on the couched fibres which are thereby consolidated.
At this time the arm g¹ on the piston rod lifts the arm e¹ of the rock
shaft, opens the valve which permits the discharge from the cylinder of
the water which was put in with the fibres, and the said arm at the same
time acts on a cam-like projection q¹ on the lower end of the shipping
lever w¹ by which the shaft p is unclutched, by which the further rising
of the piston is stopped. By the foregoing operations the fibres have
become so consolidated that the fabric so formed is practically imper-
vious, and as it is necessary to remove it from the former without injury
the shipping lever is moved to clutch the shaft p to the pulley 9,
which causes the piston to descend into the cylinder, and as the upper
part of the cylinder was filled with air while the former was elevated,
the resistance of the air liberates the hat from the former so that it can
be readily taken out. The shape of the former is to be suited to the
article which is to be made. After the hat has been removed from
the machine it is better to dry it as quickly as possible. To this end
I form a mould of clay or other material capable of absorption rapidly
as denoted in Figs. 8 and 9, the clay is burnt but unglazed, and from
its nature is a powerful absorbent. The mould is formed to correspond
to the hat or article produced, and into this mould the hat or article
is placed, and compressed therein in any convenient manner so as to
express the water, which is quickly absorbed by the mould, so that the
hat is removed dry and finished. This mould may be ornamented or
embossed so as to give to the hat the appearance of straw or other
desirable imitation or design. The process of drying is still further
facilitated by heating the mould to a degree not su.ficiently high to
burn or injure the article to be dried.
0
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent
filed by the said George Kellogg in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 25th July 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GEORGE
KELLOGG, of New York, United States of America, at present temporarily
residing at Edward's Hotel, George Street, in the County of Middlesex,
5 send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria by Her
Letters Patent bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of January, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the
thirty-first year of Her reign, did for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said George Kellogg, Her special licence,
that I, the said George Kellogg, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said George Kellogg, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
HATS, BONNETS, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD, AND IN MACHINERY FOR
MANUFACTURING THE SAME," a communication to me from abroad by Henry
Kellogg, of New Haven, United States of America, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said George Kellogg, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Kellogg, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the
accompanying three Sheets of Drawings (that is to say) :-
This Invention relates to a peculiar formation of hats, and coating
for hat bodies, and machinery for accomplishing the same, and consists
in taking vegetable pulp, whether perfectly dry or in the partially
fluid condition in which it is usually employed for commencing to
form it into sheets of paper in paper-making machinery, and then
mixing the same with a sufficient quantity of water (say in the
proportion of 50 to 80 parts, or thereabouts, of water to one of pulp)
in order to entirely separate the fibres from each other that they may
all be diffused through the water similarly to the manner in which
particles or motes float in the air, then introducing into the same
animal fibre, such as wool, and from this mixture forming a hat body

page_text: by placing the mixture into a vessel above a former, constructed from
perforated metal or other suitable permeable material, constantly
agitating the mixture to preserve the above-stated condition, then by
suction from below or pressure above, forcing the water through the
former, leaving the fibrous mixture thoroughly mingled and packed
in sufficient quantity to form the body. In this description the term
hat is used to include bonnets and many other coverings for the head.
That others skilled in the art may be enabled to thus produce hat
bodies I will proceed to describe the manner of so doing, employing
the apparatus illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 of the accompanying Drawings.
Apparatus better adapted for manufacturing purposes than this,
shewn in Figs. 1 and 2, will be more explained hereafter.
A pulp is first prepared from any vegetable pulping substance in
the usual manner as for the manufacture of paper, and after reducing
this to a very liquid state by the introduction of water in about 50 to 80
times the quantity used for the manufacture of paper, as above stated,
animal fibre is introduced, preferring wool, equal in quantity, say to
about one of wool to 5 of pulp; this fibre is thoroughly intermixed
with the above, and thus prepared the mixture is ready for use for
the formation of the hat.
The apparatus shewn in Figs. 1 and 2, consists of a cylinder A
provided with a plunger ring a, which fits closely in the cylinder, and
is moved up or down therein by a handle B. On the plunger ring a
hat former C is placed, this should be in the form of the hat required
to be produced, and is made of woven wire, or may be of metal finely
perforated, and so that but little of the metal will remain; this former
is raised with the plunger ring.
To form a body entire I pour the thoroughly mixed compound before
described into the cylinder above the former C, then slowly but steadily
raise the plunger, which would, were it not for the perforations in the
former, create a vacuum below, but the water passes through the
perforations, which are so small that the mixed compound does not
pass through; the mixture remaining above is closely packed upon the
former, the mixture following the current formed by the passage of
the water through the former to different parts of the body until it is
completed and evenly covered. I thus continue to raise the former
and continue agitation of the mixture to prevent separation and secure
diffusion until the body is drawn entirely from the water, that is, until

page_text: the water has all passed below, continuing the upward movement of
the hat, air will pass down through it to supply the space left below
the ascending body, the tendency of which is to press the water from
and dry the body. The extent of this drying depends upon the length
of the cylinder, which may be sufficient to completely dry the body.
If not made long enough to dry the body, remove it from the former
and dry it in any convenient and suitable manner. The body is then
complete and ready to receive the finishing operations of lining,
binding, &c. I find the best and most successful manner of removing
the hat from the former to be to suddenly reverse the plunger, giving
it a quick downward movement, the air from below forcing the body
from the former. The objects of introducing the animal fibre arc, first,
that without this fibre the perforations in the former must necessarily be
very fine in order to prevent the vegetable fibres from passing through,
and being so fine this vegetable fibre packs so solidly upon the former
that practically the water will not pass through it, therefore the fibre
falls upon the former and remains in masses solidly and unevenly
packed thereon. By the introduction of the animal fibre the particles
of vegetable fibre are held slightly apart in suspension as it were, the
fibre more readily following the currents in the water and leading
the mixed fibre to those portions of the body where the water most
freely passes until the whole is evenly covered. The animal fibre, after
the body is formed, serves to very much strengthen the body by uniting
the particles in like manner as the hair used in plastering mortar
unites the particles of lime and sand; and as in plastering, without
the hair possesses less strength, so in forming the hat body without the
animal fibre, the body must be very thin, and comparatively of less
strength..
I have described this Invention thus far as forming the body entire,
but the same process may be employed to coat a body formed of
"foundation" or similar material. To do this place the foundation
body upon the former and operate as described for forming the hat
body. This last class of hats may be coated only upon one side, or
after one side has been coated the former may be reversed, and the
other side be coated in like manner.
By the mechanism which I have described for my process the natural
pressure of the atmosphere is all that I employ, and practically all
that is required, yet the process may be facilitated by increasing the

page_text: pressure, either upon the mixture above the former, or by suction
from below.
I will now proceed to describe the complete machine, which I
employ in the production of the hat which I have described referring
to Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7.
In the accompanying Drawings a represents a suitable frame, on the
upper platform 6 of which is mounted a vertical cylinder c, open at the
upper end, and to this cylinder is fitted a piston d properly packed so as
to work therein water-tight or nearly so. The piston is a ring connected
by brackets e with a cylindrical piston rod f fitted to slide in a hole
in the bottom of the cylinder, provided with a packing box of the usual
construction, and to the upper surface of this annular piston is secured
the flat rim of the pervious or wire gauze former g, see Fig. 5, whilst
the body thereof extends into and through the annulus. The inside and
the upper rim of the said former should be of the form of the outside
of the hat or other article to be made therein. In the bottom of the
cylinder there is a hole h, to which is fitted one end of a pipe ?, the
other end of which is provided with a stop cock j for the discharge of
water from the inside of the cylinder when it becomes desirable to clean
out the cylinder; and from this pipe a branch k extends up about two-
thirds the height of the cylinder where it is bent over and provided
with a valve l, which when open permits the accumulation of water
in the cylinder above the level of the said discharge pipe to escape; but
as the said pipe communicates with the bottom of the cylinder all the
water which escapes has passed through the meshes or perforations of
the former, and the fibres have been deposited in the former. The
piston rod f is hollow for a considerable distance from the lower end,
and threaded to receive a thread shaft m, the lower journal of which is
fitted to turn in a step. This shaft is provided with a bevel cog
wheel n, which is turned by a corresponding bevel wheel o on a shaft. P,
on which two belt pulleys q and turn freely by belts s and t from
pulleys u, u, on the driving shaft v, and the belts is crossed so that
the two pulleys q, r, rotate in opposite directions. A clutch wis
feathered in the usual manner, so that it will turn with but be free to
slide on the shaft p, so that it can be made to clutch either of the
pulleys q or to the shaft p. The driving shaft being turned in the
direction of the arrow by any suitable motor, if the pulley be

page_text: clutched to the shaft p it will be rotated in the direction of the arrow,
and this will by the turning of the threaded shaft m elevate the piston,
and when the clutch is reversed and the pulley q is clutched to the
shaft the motions will be reversed and the piston drawn down. The
shifting of the clutch is effected by a shipping lever ', which turns
upon a fulcrum pin a, the lower end of which lever is received in a
mortise in a sliding rod y provided with a forked arm, which is fitted
to a groove in the sliding clutch w. In this way whilst the driving
shaft is rotated by shifting the position of the shipping lever the
threaded shaft can be turned in either direction to lift or depress the
piston or be stopped at the will of the attendant. The stem of the
valve in the discharge branch pipe is provided with an arm a
connected by a rod b' with an arm of a rock shaft d', which has an
arm e¹ attached to a spring f¹, the tension of which keeps the valve
closed, but as soon as the piston and pervious former have been elevated
to the required height, an arm g¹ on the piston rod f comes into contact
with and lifts the arm e¹ of the rock shaft, and this by the connections
described opens the valve to permit the escape of the surplus water in
the cylinder, and at the same time the said arm acts on a cam-like
projection on the shipping lever w, which unclutches the shaft P, and
then by moving the said lever by hand a little farther the shaft is
clutched by the other pulley, and the piston is drawn down, the arm g¹
liberates the arm e¹ of the rock shaft d', and the valve is then closed
by the tension of the spring f¹. To the lower end of the rod is
secured what I denominate a couching pad ; it is a hollow vessel
made, by preference, of vulcanized india-rubber, water-tight, and nearly
filled with water or other liquid, and the outer surface covered with
woollen cloth, such as is used by paper makers for
The rod is also
couching paper pulp.
Above this couching pad there is a concave disc secured to the lower
end of the rod 2, but of less concavity than the convex form of the
upper part of the pad to permit the said pad to spread a little when
the lower portion of it meets with resistance.
provided with three (more or less) spring arms ¹, to the outer ends of
which is secured a ring & corresponding with the rim of the former,
and which I denominate the rim coucher, the under surface of which is
also covered with couching cloth. The rod is fitted to slide freely
in a hole in a boss m¹ pivotted to the upper end of a standard n', so that
when the couching pad is elevated above the upper end of the cylinder

page_text: the boss can be turned to one side to admit of removing for repairs or
otherwise. The rod i' near the upper end is provided with an adjustable
collar o', so that weights fitted to the upper end of the rod may rest on
it. Holes are formed through the rod i at different parts of its length
to receive a pin p³ to act as a stop to prevent the couching pad from
rising beyond the desired height. Other equivalent means may be
substituted for the said pin and holes. Water is to be put in the
cylinder to the height of the discharge pipe k, and the piston with the
former let down to its lowest position. The prepared fibres thoroughly
mixed in water-like pulp for making paper, and sufficient in quantity
to make a hat or other article, is poured into the cylinder above the
former, where the fibres will be diffused in the water previously in
the cylinder, and above the former. The shipping lever w¹ is then
moved by the attendant to clutch the pulley, and the piston with
its former then begins to rise. The water in the cylinder filters through
the meshes of the former, and deposits the fibres on the rim and inner
surface of the former; and when the piston has risen to such a height
that the quantity of fibres deposited on the surface of the former is
sufficient to produce the required thickness for the tip of the hat, the
central portion of it comes into contact with the lower portion of the
couching pad, which is made of greater convexity than the concavity
of the former, but which being hollow, of flexible material, and con-
taining a liquid, will yield to the pressure and gradually spread out by
the continued rising of the piston, thereby gradually making pressure
on the deposited fibres. The pressure in this way is made first at the
tip, and gradually spreads out all around, thereby couching or laying the
fibres from the centre to the circumference, the layer of fibre gradually
increasing from the tip to the rim until finally the fibres which have
accumulated to a greater thickness on the rim of the former are there
couched by coming in contact with the under surface of the couching
annulus pad . All this time the couching operation has been per-
formed by the rising of the piston and former against the weight of
the couching pad and the rod to which it is attached, and such additional
weight as may be found necessary, but at the end of the couching
operation the rod is stopped by the pin p¹ striking against the top of
the boss m' of the standard n', and the piston being raised a little more
a very considerable pressure is brought to bear on the couched fibres,
which are thereby consolidated. At this time the arm g¹ on the piston

page_text: rod lifts the arm e¹ of the rock shaft, opens the valve 1, which permits
the discharge from the cylinder of the water which was put in with the
fibres, and the said arm at the same time acts on
a cam-like pro-
jection g¹, on the lower end of the shipping lever w¹, by which the
shaft p is unclutched, by which the further rising of the piston is
stopped. By the foregoing operations the fibres have become so con-
solidated that the fabrics so formed is practically impervious, and as it is
necessary to remove it from the former without injury the shipping lever
is moved to clutch the shaft p to the pulley q, which causes the piston
to descend into the cylinder, and as the upper part of the cylinder
was filled with air while the former was elevated the resistance of the air
liberates the hat from the former, so that it can be readily taken out.
The shape of the former is to be suited to the article which is to be made.
After the hat has been removed from the machine it is better to dry
it as quickly as possible. To this end I form a mould of clay or other
material capable of absorbing rapidly, as denoted in Figs. 8 and 9; the
clay is burnt but unglazed, and from its nature is a powerful absorbent.
The mould is formed to correspond to the hat or article produced,
and into this mould the hat or article is placed and compressed
therein in any convenient manner, so as to express the water, which
is quickly absorbed by the mould, so that the hat is removed dry
and finished. This mould may be ornamented or embossed so as to
give to the hat the appearance of straw or other desirable imitation
or design. The process of drying is still further facilitated by heating
the moulds to a degree not sufficiently high to burn or injure the
article to be dried.
Having thus fully described my Invention, what I claim as new
and useful, and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,―
First. The manufacture of hats, hat bodies, and other articles by
combining animal fibre with vegetable pulped fibre, substantially as
herein set forth and described.
Secondly. I claim the arrangement and combination of machinery
for the manufacture or production of hats and hat bodies from pulped
fibrous materials in the manner herein described and shewn in the
accompanying Drawings.
Thirdly. I claim the means or process herein described for drying.

page_text: manner described.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Kellogg, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-third day of July, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
GEORGE KELLOGG. (L.S.)