IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES to be as follows:-
Year: 1884

page_text: I HERBERT DANIEL of Nantgaredig, in the county of Carmarthen, Boot
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of the said invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES to be as follows:-
"
This invention relates to improvements in the method of sewing the soles to the
uppers of boots and shoes.
In carrying out my invention the welt is sewn to the uppers alone and the
reverse of the said welt is then turned downwards and stitched to the soles.
The uppers are lasted on without an insole and the pleats at the toe are made
secure by means of a waxed thread.
The uppers are then removed from the last and the welt sewn on the outer side
all round or from heel to heel after which I place the said upper and welt so sewn
within an "
upper" mould made for the purpose so that the welt only will remain
outside the said mould all round at the bottom so as to allow it to be stitched to
the sole.
The boot or shoe thus made will require the usual removable insole or sock or
the sock can be rivetted or sewn through the soles but in this case it will not be
removable.
'

page_text: I HERBERT DANIEL, of Nantgaredig, in the county of Carmarthen, Boot
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of the said invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES" and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in the method of sewing the soles to the
uppers of boots and shoes and the invention consists in sewing the welt to the
uppers alone and then pressing the said welt downwards and stitching the same to
the sole.
In order to enable my invention to be fully understood I will describe the same
by reference to the accompanying drawing which illustrates my invention as
applied to the manufacture of a shoe. Similar letters in all the figures represent
similar parts.
In carrying out my invention the upper is first lasted on without an insole and
the pleats at the toe and other parts made secure by running a waxed thread
through them so as to gather them and they are then settled down by means of a
hammer; the position should then be observed in which the welt is to be sewn on;
(or the welt may be tacked on by means of lasting tacks which can be removed
after the welt has been sewn.)
The upper is then removed from the last (if sewn by machine, but which,
however, is not required with hand work) and the welt sewn on the outer side all
round, or from heel to heel. It should be observed, however, that a heel insole
piece must be used when the welt is only sewn from heel to heel.
I then replace the said upper and welt so sewn on the last and place them
within an upper-mould made for the purpose as shewn in figure 1, which represents
a side elevation of a shoe upper and welt so placed within the mould, a plan of the
mould being shewn at figure 2,; a, is the upper and b, the welt sewn thereto at c;
d, is the mould formed in two parts as shewn in figure 2, the lower edge of the
sides of the mould being turned slightly inwards and of less thickness than the
upper edge; the ends of each half of the mould at the parts which receive the toe
and heel of the shoe projects slightly upwards and outwards so as to form lugs e,
for receiving screws f, serving to regulate and tighten the mould upon the upper
and last.
Having tightened up the mould d, so that the upper shall become tight on the
last the portion of the welt b, which projects outside the mould at the bottom is
then stitched to the outer sole as shewn in figure 3, which represents a longitudinal
section of the upper a and welt b, in the mould d, to which welt b, the outer sole g,
has been stitched at a', as described; h, represents the last within the upper a.
The boot or shoe thus made will require a thick flannel or other removeable
insole or sock to be placed inside the shoe when finished; or a leather sock can be
fastened inside by being rivetted or sewn through the soles but in this case it will
not be removeable. Figure 4, is a transverse section of the complete shoe,
i, representing the insock or insole.
Boots and shoes manufactured according to my improvements possess great
flexibility or pliability and are equal in many respects to and are lighter than boots
and shoes manufactured of india rubber; there are no tingles or rivets except those
employed in building up the heels; in appearance the boots and shoes do not
differ from ordinary sewn boots and shoes; by stitching through only two
thicknesses of material at a time, stronger and more solid stitches are obtained than

page_text: when stitching through several thicknesses as has hitherto been the practice and a
saving of time and of bottom stuff is effected as by my improvements a complete
leather fishing boot could be made consisting only of uppers, welt, outer sole and
heel top piece.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:-
The herein described improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes
consisting in first sewing the welt to the uppers alone and then securing the said
uppers within a mould constructed to press on the welt at its junction with the
uppers and thereby force or press the welt downwards ready to be stitched to the
sole substantially as hereinbefore described and represented in the accompanying
drawing.