IM- PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN ATTACHMENTS THEREFOR
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Brigham Bishop, of Regent Street, in
33
the County of Middlesex, Merchant, for the Invention of "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN ATTACHMENTS THEREFOR."
Partly a communication from abroad by George Henry Bishop, of
the City of New York, and Henry M. Hall, of Philadelphia, Penn-
sylvania, both in the United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Brigham
Bishop at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 1st May 1874.
"
I, THOMAS BRIGHAM BISHOP, of Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN ATTACHMENTS THEREFOR,'
partly my own Invention and partly the result of a communication to
me from abroad by George Henry Bishop, of the City of New York, and

page_text: Henry M. Hall, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, both in the United
States of America, to be as follows:-
_
This Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines proper,
also to certain attachments for sewing machines, and consists in the first
instance of a peculiar, arrangement for engaging and disengaging, or
coupling and uncoupling at pleasure the fly wheel or driving pulley
from the main driving shaft of the machine, whereby the machine is
prevented from being driven in the wrong direction, and unnecessary
wear and tear of the sewing mechanism is prevented when performing
the operation of winding or spooling. These results are obtained by
mounting the fly wheel or driving pulley loose on its shaft, and coupling
it thereto by an adjustable spring pall or catch which is hinged to the
fly wheel, and caused to engage into ratchet teeth or notches inclined on
one side, made either in the surface of the shaft itself or in a separate
disc secured to the end of such shaft. A small inclined projection is
formed on the side of the pall or catch, and a flat spring having a similar
inclined projection is fixed to the fly wheel, so as to project over the pall.
When the pall is required to act (as in running the machine) it is
pressed towards the shaft by a small handle or button, and the projections
on the spring and pall hold it in that position, but when it is desired to
*disengage or uncouple the fly wheel or pulley (as in the case of winding
or spooling merely), the pall or catch is pushed outwards clear of the
ratchet teeth or notches, and is there held till required to act again. By
this arrangement the whole of the sewing mechanism remains at rest
during the time of spooling, in lieu of as heretofore running to waste.
With a view to easing the motion of the foot in working the treadle
· of a sewing machine, and to ensure the crank being always left on the
proper side of the "dead centre" ready for starting (thereby avoiding
the risk of turning the machine in the wrong direction), it is proposed
to employ a spring attached to the front or toe part of the treadle and
bearing upon the floor, such spring always keeping the toe of the treadle
elevated when at rest. The mere downward pressure of the foot is
sufficient to start the machine in the right direction, and the action of
the spring then assists the treadle in rising, thus dispensing in a measure
with the heel pressure, which has hitherto been found so objectionable
by reason of the strain upon the muscles of the leg produced thereby.
.
One of the improved attachments for sewing machines consists of an
improved embroiderer, which is entirely self-contained, that is to say, it

page_text: consists of an apparatus made complete in itself and ready for easy
adaptation to a sewing machine, it being in one piece in lieu of being
composed of two or more separate parts, each requiring separate
adjustment to the machine. The embroidery or the ornamental stitch
is produced as is well known by the crossing in opposite directions, or
zig-zagging of two threads or yarns of the same or different colors over
the ordinary stitches produced by the sewing machine. The embroidery
threads are each guided by suitable guides in two vibrating arms which
cross each other at every stitch, so as to insure the stitching down of the
ornamenting threads on to the surface of the fabric in a double zig-zag
fashion, and it is the peculiar mode of operating these arms that con-
stitutes the essential feature of this part of my Invention. The vibrating
arms are pivotted on a plate which is fixed in any convenient manner to
the head of the sewing machine, and within suitable guides in the fixed
plate works a vertical slide, the upper end of which is bent at right
angles, so as to fit over and be connected to the top of the needle bar,
from which it derives a vertical reciprocating motion. To the lower end
of this vertical slide is pivotted at its broadest part or base a V shaped
vibrating cam for actuating the vibrating arms before referred to, this
cam being formed with a projection on each side at the base, which
projections by striking alternately two spring stops carried by a vibrating
lever, which transmits motion to the two vibrating arms before
mentioned, brings the point of the V shaped cam into proper position
for causing its opposite incline to act upon the bent end of the vibrating
lever at the next ascent of the needle bar, the descent of the same
causing the cam to be turned partly on its centre, so as to be in readiness
to act on the opposite side of the bent end of the lever at the next
upward stroke. Each of the two vibrating arms carrying the embroidery.
threads are slotted, and within these slots work pins fixed to the
vibrating actuating lever, the said pins being situate on opposite sides
of the centre of motion of the lever, so that each vibration of the lever
causes the two arms to cross over each other, such motion being
produced at every stitch. The reels carrying the embroidery threads are
mounted on pins attached to arms, one on each side of the fixed plate of
the apparatus.

page_text: secured to the under side of the table of the sewing machine, to the
lower end of which spindle there is secured a spring clip which is so
shaped as to readily admit and embrace the neck of the oil can just
below the enlarged collar at the base of the oil pipe or nozzle. The clip
should be situate sufficiently below the table to allow the top of the oil t
pipe or nozzle to clear the under side thereof. After using the can it is
simply pushed between the curved arms of the spring clip, and there
left suspended till required for use again. This arrangement of oil can
holder is obviously applicable in all cases where an oil can is in frequent
requisition.
Another of the improved attachments consists of a peculiar corder,
such corder being made with split guide eyes having a flaring lip. or.
mouth-piece, so as to enable the cord to be readily slipped into the
guides laterally, in lieu of threading the cord through each eye as
heretofore. A false foot having two guiding grooves made therein is,
fitted on to the bar or stem of the corder, and is adjusted when in use
immediately under the presser foot of the sewing machine, the corder.
being attached by an adjustable clamp to the cloth plate.
Another improvement in sewing machine attachments consists of a
peculiar scroll binder wherein the scroll tube is made adjustable laterally
upon its holding plate, so as to enable the row of stitches to be inserted
nearer to or further from the edge of the binding, as may be found
most desirable. I also propose to attach a curved spring and guide to
the entering end of the binder for the purpose not only of properly
guiding the binding into the binder, but of holding the binding by a
gentle pressure close against the back of the inside of the scroll.
I also propose to combine with these and other binders, as well as
with other sewing machine attachments intended to be fitted on to the
presser foot of a sewing machine, a hinged clamp secured by a hook or
catch when closed, in order to more effectually and securely fasten the
attachment to the said presser foot. In conjunction with this clamp I
employ two adjusting screws with eccentric heads, against which one
edge of the presser foot is brought to bear, so that by suitably adjusting
the eccentric heads by turning the screws more or less, a perfect
adjustment of the position of the attachment on the presser foot is
obtained.

page_text: I also construct an improved tucker or tuck marker wherein the
fabric is creased or marked by the combined action of a holding or
pressing plate, a yielding pin, a fixed knife edge, and a spring creaser.
The holding or pressing plate is pressed down on the fabric at each
descent of the needle by the yielding pin, the head of which pin bears
against a blade spring, and the fabric is creased or marked by the action
of the spring creaser, which strokes the fabric downwards over one side
of the knife edge by a yielding pressure at the same time that the fabric
is held firmly on the opposite side of the knife edge by the holding or
pressing plate. On the ascent of the needle the pressure on the fabric is
removed to allow the feed to act, the holding and stroking actions being
repeated at every stitch, thus effectually creasing or marking the fold for
the next tuck. This creaser is of course made adjustable to suit tucks
of various widths, as is well understood.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Thomas Brigham Bishop in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 29th October 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
BRIGHAM BISHOP, of Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-seventh year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, Her special license that I,
the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES, AND IN ATTACHMENTS THEREFOR," partly my own Invention
and partly the result of a communication to me from abroad by George

page_text: Henry Bishop, of the City of New York, and Henry M. Hall, of
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, both in the United States of America, upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the accom-
panying Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is
to say:
The said Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines
proper, and also to certain improved attachments for sewing machines
herein-after described.
The improvements in sewing machines proper consist of a peculiar
combination or arrangement for engaging and disengaging or coupling
and uncoupling at pleasure the fly wheel or driving pulley from the
main driving shaft of the machine, whereby the machine is prevented
from being driven in the wrong direction, and unnecessary wear and tear
of the sewing mechanism is prevented when performing the operation of
winding or spooling.
Figure 1 of the Drawings represents a face view of the fly wheel of a
sewing machine having the peculiar combination or arrangement of
engaging and disengaging mechanism herein-before referred to applied
thereto. The fly wheel or driving pulley A is mounted loosely on its
shaft, and is coupled thereto by the adjustable spring pall or catch
lever B, which is curved so as to pass half way round the axle, and is
hinged to the fly wheel at C, and provided with a tooth or projection a
caused to engage into ratchet teeth or notches a¹, a', inclined on one
side, made either in the circumference of the driving shaft itself or in a
separate disc D secured to the end of such shaft by a screw E or other-
wise, as shown in the Drawing.

page_text: In some cases, if found desirable, these notches may be under cut, so
as to prevent the accidental disengagement of the tooth or projection a
therefrom at high speeds, which tooth will be made so as to enter the
said under cut.
A small inclined or. A shaped projection 6 is formed on the face of the
curved catch lever, and a flat spring c having a similar inclined pro-
jection d (shown in dotted lines) is fixed to the fly wheel A, so as to
project over the catch lever B.
When the catch lever is required to act (as in running the machine)
it is released from the spring catch c by pressing it towards the shaft by
the small handle or button e, and is there held with the tooth a engaged
in one of the notches a¹ by any convenient arrangement of spring ƒ (see
Fig. 1).
When it is desired to disengage or uncouple the fly wheel or pulley A
(as in the case of winding or spooling merely), the pall or catch lever B
is by preference pushed outwards by the pressure of the finger against
the button e, so as to be clear of the ratchet teeth or notches a¹, and is
there held by the projections on the spring catch cand pall B respectively
until required to act again, thus avoiding all jarring noise. If preferred
however, the catch lever may remain down whilst spooling, thus avoiding
any change in the machine. By this arrangement facility is readily
afforded for allowing the whole of the sewing mechanism to remain at
rest during the time of spooling, in lieu of as in ordinary machines
running to no purpose, but to the detriment of the machine itself. The
same arrangement obviously serves as an effectual substitute for a break
for preventing the machine being driven in the wrong direction.
I would here observe however that I do not claim the application per se
of a loose driving wheel to sewing machines for the purpose set forth, as
I am aware that such has already been proposed, but in a different and
less convenient manner to that herein-before described and illustrated
by Fig. 1.
Figure 2 of the Drawings represents a combination of spring and
treadle for casing the motion of the foot in working the treadle of a
sewing machine, assisting the working of the machine, and ensuring the
crank being always left on the proper side of the "dead centre" ready
for starting (thereby avoiding the risk of turning the machine in the
wrong direction). For this purpose I employ a conical, helical, or other
'

page_text: convenient form or construction of spring A (see Fig. 2) attached to the
front or toe part a of the treadle B, and bearing either directly upon the
floor itself (as shown in my Drawing) or upon a cross bar or support
attached to the standards of the machine, such spring always keeping
the toe of the treadle elevated when at rest. Or the said spring may
be otherwise attached to produce like results. The mere downward
pressure of the foot is sufficient to start the machine in the right
direction, and the action of the spring then assists the treadle in rising,
thus dispensing in a measure with the heel pressure which has hitherto
been found so objectionable by reason of the strain upon the muscles of
the leg produced thereby.
One of the improved attachments for sewing machines consists of an
improved embroiderer which is entirely self-contained, that is to say, it
consists of an apparatus made complete in itself, and ready for easy
adaptation to a sewing machine, it being in one piece in lieu of being
composed of two or more separate parts, each requiring separate
adjustment to the machine. The said improved embroiderer is repre-
sented detached in front elevation in Fig. 3, and in the position it
assumes when the needle slide which actuates the embroiderer is in
its extreme upward position. Fig. 4. represents a portion of the
embroiderer in the position it assumes when the actuating needle slide
is in its extreme lowest position; Fig. 5 shows the position of the
same parts when the needle slide is at half stroke in its ascent; Fig. 6
shows the position of the parts at the completion of the up stroke of the
needle slide; and Fig. 7 is a side elevation or edge view of the
embroiderer without the reel holders. The embroidery or ornamental
stitch is produced, as is well understood, by the crossing in opposite
directions or zig-zagging of two threads or yarns of the same or different
colors over the ordinary stitches produced by the sewing machine.
embroidery threads are each guided by suitable guides a, b, b, in two
vibrating arms A, A', which arms cross each other at every stitch, so as
to ensure the stitching down of the ornamenting threads on to the
surface of the fabric in a double zig-zag fashion, and it is the peculiar
mode of operating these arms that constitutes one of the essential
features of this part of the Invention. The vibrating arms A, A', work
on a fixed centre B secured to a plate C, which is attached by a fixing
screw or other convenient means at the slot C¹ to the head of the
overhanging bracket or "goose neck" of the sewing machine, and
The

page_text: within suitable guides c, c, in this fixed plate works a vertical slide D,
the upper end of which is bent at right angles, as shown clearly in
Fig. 7, so as to fit over and be connected to the top of the needle bar,
from which it derives a vertical reciprocating motion. To the lower end
of this vertical slide D there is pivotted at d near its broadest part or
base a A shaped vibrating cam E for actuating the vibrating arms A, A¹,
before referred to. This cam E is formed with a projection or short
arm e, c¹, on each side at the base, which projections by striking
alternately two spring stops ff, carried by a lever F, which vibrates
on a centre or pivot g at its lowest extremity, and which transmits
motion to the two vibrating arms before mentioned, brings the point of
the A shaped cam into proper position for causing its opposite incline to
act upon the bent end of the vibrating lever F at the next ascent of
the needle bar, which position is clearly shown in Fig. 4. The pressure
of one side only of the cam against the stop f¹ just as the cam completes
its descent causes the said cam to turn slightly on its centre to the left,
so as to be in readiness to act on the opposite side of the bent end / of
the lever F at the next upward stroke. Whilst so acting the cam E
bears against the stop ¹ at the bottom of the slide D. Each of the two
vibrating arms A, A', carrying the embroidery threads are slotted at i, i¹,
(Fig. 3), and within these slots work pins or projections k, k¹, on the
vibrating actuating lever F, the said pins or projections being situate on
opposite sides of the centre of motion B of the vibrating arms A, A¹, so
that each vibration of the lever F on its centre or pivot causes the two
arms A, A', to cross over each other, such motion being produced at
every stitch or each time the needle rises. The reels carrying the
embroidery threads are mounted on the pins G, G, attached to arms, one
on each side of the fixed plate C of the apparatus.
Another of the improved attachments consists of a new and useful
O contrivance to be fitted to any sewing machine for holding the oil can
when not in actual use. Fig. 8 is a side elevation, and Fig. 9 a
sectional plan of this contrivance, which consists of a short spindle A
secured to the under side of the table B of the sewing machine, to the
lower end of which spindle there is secured a spring clip C, which is so
shaped as to readily admit and embrace at a the neck of the oil can just
below the enlarged collar at the base of the oil pipe or nozzle. The clip
should be situate sufficiently below the table, as shown, to allow the top
of the oil pipe or nozzle to clear the under side thereof. After using the

page_text: can it is simply pushed between the curved arms of the spring clip C,
and there left suspended at a till required for use again. This arrange-
ment of oil can holder is obviously applicable in all cases where an oil
can is in frequent requisition.
Another of the improved attachments consists of a peculiar split guide
eye for corders, one of which split guide eyes is represented in perspective
on an enlarged scale detached at Figure 10. a is the tubular part for the
reception of the cord, and 6 is a lateral slit or opening extending from
end to end of the guide eye, and formed with flaring or inclined lips c, c,
for the facility of inserting the cord laterally in the eye, in lieu of
threading the cord through each eye as heretofore. Figures 11, 12,
and 13 represent different views of a corder to which the improved guide
eye a is applied. A false foot A having two guiding grooves made
therein is fitted on to the bar or stem B of the corder, and is adjusted
when in use to the lower end of the stem or bar of the presser foot of the
sewing machine by the metal socket C and set screw, the presser foot
itself being detached for the time being. If preferred, the corder may
be attached by an adjustable clamp to the cloth plate, in lieu of being
attached to the presser foot bar.
Another improvement in sewing machine attachments consists of a
peculiar scroll binder (shown in plan and partial side clevation at
Figs. 14 and 15) wherein the scroll tube a is made adjustable laterally
by means of a single screw or two screws b, b, and slots upon its holding
plate c, so as to enable the row of stitches to be inserted nearer to or
further from the edge of the binding, as may be found most desirable.
I also propose to attach a curved spring d and guide e to the entering
end of a binder, as shown in the side elevation, Fig. 16, for the purpose
not only of properly guiding the binding into the binder f, but of holding
the binding by a gentle pressure close against the back of the inside of
the scroll. Figure 17 is a transverse section of Fig. 16, taken along the a
line 1-2, and showing the exact position of the curved spring d near
the back of the scroll; Fig. 18 is a section taken along the line 3-4
in Fig. 16, and shows the guide e at the entering end of the binder.
g, g, are adjustable slides on the guide e for guiding in different widths
of binding.
I also propose to combine with these and other binders, as well as
with other sewing machine attachments intended to be fit
1
3

page_text: presser foot of a sewing machine, a hinged clamp h, shown clearly in
Figs. 14 and 15, as applied to a binder for example, secured by a hook
or catch at i when closed, in order to more effectually and securely
fasten the attachment to the said presser foot.
In lieu of a hinge, as shown at k in Figs. 14 and 15, the clamp h may
be simply connected by a spring or metal tongue with the main plate /
of the binder. In either case the presser foot is to be introduced between
the plate and the clamp h, and the latter closed down upon it and
secured by the hooked catch at i.
I also employ two adjusting screws m, m, fitted into the plate 7, and
having eccentric heads (see Figs. 14 and 15) against which one edge of
the presser foot is brought to bear, so that by suitably adjusting the
eccentric heads by turning the screws more or less, a perfect adjustment
of the position of the attachment on the presser foot is obtained.
I also construct an improved tucker or tuck marker, shown in side
elevation, plan, and transverse section (along the line 1-2) at Figs. 19,
20, and 21 respectively, wherein the fabric shown by the red line in
Fig. 19 is creased or marked by the combined action of a holding or
pressing plate a, a yielding pin 6, a fixed knife edge c, and a spring
creaser d. The holding or pressing plate a is pressed down on the fabric
at each descent of the needle by the yielding pin b, the head of which
pin bears against a blade spring e secured to the end of the bar f, and
the fabric is creased or marked by the action of the spring creaser d,
which strokes the fabric downwards over one side of the knife edge c by
a yielding pressure at the same time that the fabric is held firmly on the
opposite side of the knife edge by the holding or pressing plate a. On
the ascent of the needle the pressure on the fabric is removed to allow
the feed to act, the holding and stroking actions being repeated at every
stitch, thus effectually creasing or marking the fold for the next tuck.
This creaser is made adjustable to suit tucks of various widths by having
an adjustable slide g thereon, fixed in any position on the base plate h of
the tucker by the milled headed screw i, graduations or divisions being
made for convenience in the bar f. The bar f, which carries the
yielding pin b, spring creaser d, and blade spring e, is jointed at k to an
upright secured to the base plate h, a wire spring ľ (Fig. 19) adjustable
by means of a set screw m serving to keep the said bar f always.
sufficiently elevated to allow the fabric to be readily passed underneath

page_text: Seventhly. The peculiar construction of split guide eye with lateral
flaring mouth or slit, and its application to "corders" and other like
attachments used in conjunction with sewing machines, substantially as
and for the purpose herein-before described and illustrated by Figs. 10,
11, 12, and 13 of the Drawings.
Eighthly. The construction and use of scroll binders, wherein the
scroll tube is made adjustable laterally upon its holding plate, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose herein-before described and illustrated
by Figure 14 of the Drawings.
Ninthly. The combination with binders and other sewing machine
attachments intended to be fitted on to the presser foot of the machine,
of a hinged or spring holding clamp and eccentric headed adjusting
screws, substantially as and for the purpose herein-before described and
illustrated by Figures 14 and 15 of the Drawings.
Tenthly. The peculiar construction, arrangement, and combination of
parts for creasing or marking the position of the folds or tucks in fabrics
when stitching tucks, substantially as herein-before described and
illustrated by the Drawings.
Eleventhly. The peculiar combination of pressing plate a, yielding
pin b, knife edge c, and yielding creaser d, when arranged to operate
together, substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein-before
described and illustrated in Figures 19, 20, and 21 of the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of October,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
four
T. BRIGHAM BISHOP. (L.S.)
Witness,
EDWIN P. ALEXANDER,
Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent,
14, Southampton Buildings,
London.