IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MAKING OR MANUFACTURING OF CERTAIN PARTS OF GARMENTS FOR EITHER SEX, LIKEWISE IN THE MANNER OF PREPARING THE SAME FOR SALE, AS ALSO AN IMPROVED BUTTON TO BE ATTACHED TO GARMENTS WITHOUT SEWING
Year: 1861

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by James Moore Cleinents at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 18th
November 1861.
I, JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick,
Tailor and Draper, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MAKING OR MANUFACTURING OF CERTAIN PARTS OF
GARMENTS FOR EITHER SEX, LIKEWISE IN THE MANNER OF PREPARING THE SAME FOR
SALE, AS ALSO AN IMPROVED BUTTON TO BE ATTACHED TO GARMENTS WITHOUT
SEWING," to, be as follows (that is to say) :-
My improvements consist, first, in the making or preparing of side, body,
and other linings, and which linings I make in such a way as to resemble
quilting of any desired pattern, which I effect by preparing wadding or other
suitable material with a waterproof or other suitable adhesive surface, over
which I apply the silk, satin, or other material, passing the same between a
pair of rolls so divided that the concave parts of the one shall exactly corre-
spond with the convex parts of the other, and the divisions forming the
pattern are left sharp and keen on the one roll, and which is brought in close
contact with the divisional surfaces of the other, and the rolls being heated
with steam, hot irons, or other convenient means, and put in motion, the
material so prepared is passed between them, when the heat from the rolls
will dissolve the adhesive coating on the wadding or other material to adhere
to it, that after this operation the combined fabric will have the appearance

page_text: of very delicate and beautiful quilting, though produced at small cost, and is
applicable for ladies' petticoats, bonnets, dress trimmings, and a variety of
other articles, as well as for the lining of gentlemen's coats.
In some cases for extra durability of the connecting of the outer and
inner fabrics here described with a third and inner lining, such as for petticoats
and coat linings, I propose further securing the fabrics together by a hidden
stitch applied generally to the angles of the divisions. One of the rolls by
which I effect this object, I divide square, spirally, or longitudinally by the
application of strips of steel, thus producing my design in the roll without
the otherwise tedious necessity of sinking the metal between each division.
Material thus treated I purpose selling in pairs for side body linings, as also
for skirt linings, or in the piece as desired by purchasers.
Secondly, my improvements relate to vest back and stay shoulder straps,
and other like purposes, which I purpose cutting out by the use of two rolls,
one smooth or plain, and the other so divided with steel blades that in
passing suitable woven fabric between them of one or more thicknesses, the
whole piece or series of cloths shall be divided into the shape required for such
straps making no waste excepting a small portion along each selvedge. Straps
thus cut out and divided up I purpose passing through another machine to,crease
and stretch the fabric into the shape desired, and while in long lengths, I
purpose stitching them together by a suitable sewing machine:, Secondly,
my improvements in back and other straps, consist in so creasing them that
one row of stitching in the centre shall pass through the three thicknesses of
the material for holding the parts together in a finished manner, or back
straps cut out as before described, may be sized, folded together, and passed
between suitable hot rolls as not only to unite them together, but also to
impart to them an ornamental design, as well as the name and address of the
user of such back straps; or back straps may be made of the desired shape by
being wove, in which case I purpose weaving in the material the name or
names and address of the parties patronizing this portion of my Invention..
Thirdly, my improvements relate to the making of the tops and bands of
trousers, such portions being fitted with the pockets, and in every way finished
with the buttons being applied and button. holes worked ready to be attached
to the legs, so as to complete a finished pair of trousers. The making of this
portion in quantities with a suitable sewing machine, and my improved button
attached to the same, forms a novel feature and new species of merchandize,
and will be found of importance and convenience, for although it is a-small
portion of the trousers nevertheless a very large portion of the work and
labour in making trousers is concentrated in this part. And the buttons I

page_text: purpose using for my trouser tops, and which are also applicable for other
purposes generally, consist in forming a pronged shank of two or more points
which are passed through the cloth, and by means of suitable tools the wire
or other formed prong is turned down concentrically so as to bear on the
inside of the button and thereby is secured to the garment, the button being
made with a flexible tuft at the back, or the prongs may protrude through
corresponding holes in the back shell.