IMPROVE MENTS IN ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Brigham Bishop, of Guilford Street, in
the County of Middlesex, Merchant, for the Invention of "IMPROVE
MENTS IN ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES."-Partly a communication
from abroad by Henry M. Hall, of Philadelphia, United States of
America
Sealed the 28th November 1878, and dated the 26th July 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Brigham Bishop
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 26th July 1873.
I, THOMAS BRIGHAM BISHOP, of Guilford Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES," which Invention
is partly my own and partly the result of a communication to me from
abroad by Henry M. Hall, of Philadelphia, United States of America,
to be as follows :—
This Invention relates to attachments for sewing machines and com-.

page_text: prises a peculiar arrangement of hemmer, binder, ruffler, and tucker,
and has also for its object the affording facility for the ready adjustment
of any one of these attachments to any sewing machine by the aid of
an adjustable guage or clamp, which is common to the various attach-
ments, and is capable of adjustment or attachment to any sewing machine
in lieu of as heretofore using a special set of attachments for each make
of machine. This adjustable guage or clamp consists of a stem or rod
of, say, two or three inches in length, having one end bent at a right
angle to fit into a corresponding socket made in all the before mentioned
attachments. Upon this stem or rod there is fitted a slotted clamp 1
which is free to slide and to turn or be adjusted thereon to either side.
The slot in this clamp receives the attaching screw and as the clamp can
be adjusted to any desired position it is obvious that it may be made to
accomodate itself to any position of the screw hole in the cloth plate
of any sewing machine, thus forming a universally adjustable guage or 1
clamp.
The hemmer consists of what is known as a scroll broad hemmer, and
the improvement consists in the addition thereto of a centre piece or
flat plate over and round which the fabric is passed before entering the
scroll, such centre piece being attached to the edge of the scroll itself. 2
The object of this centre piece is to prevent any diminution in the width
of the hem by holding the fabric in its proper position, whilst it also
affords a free passage for seams.
The improved binder consists of what is known as a double scroll
binder to which I attach a central guiding plate between the two scrolls, 2
such guiding plate being curved or turned up on both sides so as to
turn under the raw edges of the fabric to be employed as a binding or
⚫trimming, and also to fold one of such turned in edges over the other
along the centre of the binding or trimming where the row of stitches
which serve to unite it to the body fabric is inserted, thus producing a a
species of work known as "milliners or French fold."
•
The improved ruffler consists essentially of a double plate situate
between the presser foot and the feeder; the lower plate rests upon the
piece to be gathered or ruffled and separates it from the band or plain
fabric placed above it. The upper plate protects the band from contact g
with the presser foot. In some cases this double plate is combined with
an adjustable spring holder for holding back the band or plain fabric

page_text: whilst the under fabric is being gathered by the action of the feeder.
A slot is formed on the front portion of the two plates for the needle
to work through and the front or side of the upper plate is turned
up or down slightly, according to the machine to which it is to be
adapted.
The improved tucker consists of two metal tongues or strips between
which the work to be tucked is passed in a folded state, the folded edge
being kept up to a guage attached to one end of the said metal tongues.
An inclined tongue of metal is secured to the upper strip close to the
guage and serves to press down or flatten the fold and form the edge of
the tuck as the work proceeds. The upper strip is graduated or marked
with dividing lines and carries an adjustable sliding, guage which is set
or adjusted to suit the space between the tucks. Small projections on the
ends of this adjustable guage serve to hole the edge of the tuck previ-
ously made, thereby guiding the fabric in a course parallel to the line of
stitches previously inserted in the preceding tuck.
Each one of these appliances or attachment has a socket formed
thereon, whereby any one of them can be readily fitted on to the herein-
before described universally adjustable guage or clamp, and used in
any sewing machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent
filed by the said Thomas Brigham Bishop in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 26th January 1874.
TO ALL TO. WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
BRIGHAM BISHOP, of Guilford Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of July, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the thirty-
) seventh
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, Her special license,
that I, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, my
executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with,

page_text: embracing a stud or button on the attachments, the said clamp being
secured to the cloth plate by the usual attaching screw which passes
between the two spring arms.
- 1
The hemmer consists of what is known as a scroll broad hemmer,
with which I propose to combine a centre piece or flat plate, over and
round which the fabric is passed before entering the scroll, such centre
piece being attached to the edge of the scroll itself. The object of this
centre piece is to prevent any diminution in the width of the hem by
holding the fabrio in its proper position, whilst it also affords a free
passage for seams.'
=
My improved binder consists of what is known as a double scroll
binder, to which I attach or combine a central guiding plate between
the two scrolls, such guiding plate being curved or turned up on both
sides so as to turn under the raw edge of the fabric to be employed as a
binding or trimming, and also to fold one of such turned in edges over
the other along the centre of the binding or trimming where the row of
stitches which serve to unite it to the body fabric and to complete or
hold together the two edges of the trimming itself is inserted, thus
producing a species of work known as "milliners " or "French fold."
My improved ruffler consists essentially of a double plate situate
between the presser foot and the feeder; the lower plate rests upon the
piece to be gathered or ruffled, and separates it from the band or plain
fabric placed above it. The upper plate protects the band from contact
with the presser foot. In some cases this double plate ruffler is com-
bined with an adjustable spring holder for the holding back the band or
plain fabric whilst the under fabric is being gathered by the action of
the feeder. A slot is formed on the front portion of the two plates for
the needle to work through, and the front or side of the upper plate
is turned up or down slightly according to the machine to which it is to
be adapted.
My improved tucker consists of two metal tongues or strips, between
which the work to be tucked is passed in a folded state, the folded edge
being kept up to a guage attached to one end of the said metal tongues.
An inclined tongue of metal is secured to the upper strip close to the
guage, and serves to press down or flatten the fold and form the edge
of the tuck as the work proceeds. The upper strip is graduated or
marked with dividing lines, and carries an adjustable sliding guage,

page_text: which is set or adjusted to suit the space between the tucks.. Small
projections on the ends of this adjustable guage serve to hold the edge
of the tuck previously made, thereby guiding the fabric in a course
parallel to the line of stitches previously inserted in the preceding
tuck.
Each one of these appliances or attachments has a socket formed
thereon, whereby any one of them can be readily fitted on to the herein-
before described universally adjustable guage or clamp, and used in any
sewing machine.
And in order that my said Invention may be fully understood I shall
now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose
shall refer to the several Figures on the annexed Sheet of Drawings, the
same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts in all the
corresponding Figures.
"
Figure 1 of my Drawings represents a full sized perspective view of
one modification of my universally adjustable guage or clamp for
facilitating the application of sewing machine attachments to machines
of different makes or constructions. a is a round stem or rod having a
short portion b bent at one end to a right angle, this portion b being
inserted into a corresponding socket or holder in the attachment as
herein-after mentioned. c is a slotted clamp composed of a piece of flat
metal bent or folded in the centre so as to form a socket for the passage
of the stem or rod a, the said clamp c being free to turn on the said rod
to either side (as shown in dotted lines), whilst the rod itself is free to
slide along the socket in the clamp. The slot d in the clamp receives
the usual attaching screw e, which binds the clamp tightly round the
rod a, and at the same time firmly secures the entire guage down on to
the cloth plate. The slot d in the clamp together with the power of
turning over such clamp to either side of the rod, and the longitudinal
adjustment of the rod itself within the socket of the clamp, enables the
attachment, whatever it may be, fitted to the bent end 6 of the rod, to be
adjusted with the greatest nicety to the needle in any existing sewing
machine, no matter what may be the position of the attaching screw
hole in the cloth plate.
In Figure 1 I have shewn in dotted lines an ordinary scroll hemmer
fitted on to the bent end of the rod a, but any attachment which may be
suitable for being so applied can be fitted to the said bent end of the
rod a, as herein-after explained.

page_text: Figure 2 is also a full sized perspective view of a slightly modified
form of universally adjustable guage or clamp, for a similar purpose to
that herein-before described with reference to Figure 1. It consists of
two spring arms a, a³, bent somewhat in the form of the letter U; one
arm a is bent at right angles, as shewn at 6, and has a notch c cut
therein to receive the end of the other spring arm a', when the
attachment has been fitted into the clamp. The attachment (ƒ) (here
shewn as an example merely) is supposed to be the ordinary scroll
hemmer, but other attachments may of course be adapted to the said
guage or clamp. For this purpose, each attachment is provided with a
stud or button g, which is embraced between the curved or bent end of
the arms a, a, as is clearly shewn in Figure 2, the arm a¹ being allowed
to,open by its inherent elasticity for the facility of inserting the button in
its place. When inserted the button is clamped or firmly held by
engaging the end of the arm a¹ into its holding notch (c), and the whole
attachment is secured on to the cloth plate of any sewing machine by
the usual attaching screw e, which is inserted between the two arms, as
shewn. The said clamp is not only free to pivot round the screw (e),
but also to slide to or from the needle, whilst at the same time the
proper direction of the attachment fin relation to the line of stitching is
maintained by turning or adjusting it more or less within the semicircular
bent end of the clamp, the button forming the pivot or centre on which
the said hemmer or other attachment turns.
Figure 3 is a full sized perspective view of a scroll broad hemmer with
my improvement adapted thereto. This improvement consists of the
centre piece or flat plate (a) attached to the edge of the scroll itself
at (6), and projecting slightly beyond the front or entering end of the
hemmer. This improved hemmer is provided with a socket at (o) for
attaching it to the bent part of the rod a of the guage or clamp, Figure 1,
as shown clearly by the dotted lines in Figure 8. The work produced by
this hemmer is shown at Figure 4. In using it the fabrio is passed in
laterally under the scroll, round the inner edge of the flat plate (a), and
back again to the interior of the scroll, which turns under the raw edge,
as is well understood and clearly illustrated in Figure 4. By the addition
of the central flat plate a I obviate any accidental diminution in the
width of the hem, as the fabric is held thereby in its proper position.
Figure 5 is a full sized perspective view of a double scroll binder
having my central guiding plate combined therewith, the binder being

page_text: here represented as adapted for direct attachment to the presser foot of a
sewing machine.
Figure 6 is a separate perspective view. (full size) of my central
guiding plate detached from the binder, and Figure 7 is a full sized
perspective view of the binder without the central guiding plate, and
adapted for attachment to the bent end of the rod a of my adjustable
guage or clamp (Figure 1), by having a socket c¹ formed thereon.
Figure 7 shews the work produced, which is of the ordinary kind. The
guiding plate a (Figure 6) is inserted between the two scrolls b and c of
the binder, and is curved or turned up on both sides, as shown in
Figure 6, so as to turn under the raw edges of the fabric to be employed
as a trimming, as shown clearly in Figure 8, which represents a
perspective view of a piece of trimming made by the combined binder
and guiding plate, and stitched at the same time on to a piece of fabric.
The lower scroll c of the binder proper is out of use where making this
trimming, such trimming & being held together by being stitched along
the centre thereof, as shewn in Figure 8, and, if desired, may afterwards
be sewn on to the surface of any part of a piece of fabric, for the
purpose of ornamenting or trimming the same. For this purpose, the
scroll c¹ of the central guiding plate is made to project some distance
beyond the upper scroll 6 of the binder proper, in order that the said
upper scroll may fold one of the turned-in edges of the trimming over
the other along the centre of the binding or trimming to receive the
row of stitches. In order to maintain the central guiding plate in its
proper position between the scrolls of the binder, I form a small tongue
or turned-down lip on the edge of the guiding plate at e, which lip
hooks over the lower scroll of the binder, and thus keeps the guiding
plate in position. f is a back plate secured to the binder, which plate is
bent downwards slightly at the front part, so as to fit under the presser
foot 9, whilst a second plate h.secured to the top of the plate ƒ fits over
the top of the presser foot, as clearly shown in Figure 5, thus holding
the attachment securely in its place. The two last-mentioned plates ƒ
and h are slotted or perforated to allow of the passage of the needle.
Figure 9 represents a full sized perspective view of my improved or
double plate ruffler, shewn in this case as combined with an adjustable
spring holder for holding back the band or plain fabric, whilst the under
fabric is being gathered by the action of the feeder. This combined
attachment is represented as being adapted for application to any make

page_text: of sewing machine by the aid of the universal adjustable guage or
clamp (Figure 1) herein-before referred to, it being provided with a
socket for the reception of the bent end of the rod a of the guage, shown
in dotted lines. Figure 10 is a geometrical side elevation of the same
combined attachment, and Figure 11 is a perspective view of the work
performed by it.
Figures 12 and 18 represent respectively a full sized perspective view,
and geometrical longitudinal section of my improved ruffler as adapted
for attachment direct on to the presser foot of a sewing machine. The
peculiarity of my improved ruffler consists of the two plates b and c,
situate between the presser foot of the machine and the feeder; the
lower plate b rests upon the piece of work d to be gathered or ruffled
(shewn by a red line), and separates it from the band or plain fabric e
(shown by a blue line) which is placed above the said plate, the upper
plate o serving to protect the band or plain fabric from contact with the
presser foot. Both these separator plates 6 and o are made to pass or
project beyond the needle f, as is clearly shewn in Figures 9 and 10,
and a slot is formed in the front portion of the two plates for the needle
to work through. The ruffling, frilling, or gathering is obtained by the
action of the regular and ordinary feeder of the sewing machine, which
should be the well-known "four motion" feed. The upper separator
plate c may be either slightly turned down at the point, as shewn in the
Drawing, Figures 9 and 10, or turned up at the side, and the said
attachment may be secured either to the cloth plate or to the presser
foot, which latter mode of attachment is shown in Figure 12.
I prefer to employ the said double plate ruffler in combination with an
adjustable spring holder, as shown in Figures 9, 10, 12, and 18, the said
holder consisting of two spring arms g, g³, of round wire bent so as to
bring them about parallel to each other, the free end of the upper arm g
being immediately over that of the lower one g', as is clearly shown in
my Drawings. The bent end of these arms is soldered or otherwise fixed
in an upright double bracket or support mounted on the plate i, through
the top of which bracket a regulating. pressing screw / is passed, the
point of such screw bearing upon the top of the upper arm.
Thus by
turning down the regulating screw the end of the upper arm can be
brought with any regulated pressure in contact with the extremity of
the lower arm, thereby regulating the amount of drag or restraining
pressure on the plain band or fabric inserted between the two arms.

page_text: The upper arm is guided by a slot in the turned up edge of the plate i
(Figures 9 and 10, and both arms project sufficiently beyond the
plate i to allow of the passage of the plain band between them.
In the arrangement shewn at Figures 9 and 10, the double plate
ruffler is formed with a socket 6' on the lower plate 6, which is slipped 5
on to the lower arm of the spring holder, and is thus maintained in
proper position. Although I have shewn a screw in all these Figures
for regulating the pressure of the spring arms on the plain fabric, the
same result may be obtained in other ways, as by a wedge or slide for
example.
Figure 14 is a full sized perspective view of my improved tucker or
tuck folder. a, a¹, are two metal tongues or strips, between which the
fabric to be tucked is passed in a folded state; 6 is the fixed guage
against which the folded edge of the fabric is maintained by the
adjustable sliding guage c on the divided upper tongue à; d, d¹, are"]
small projections on the sliding guage for holding the edge of the tuck
previously made, and thereby guiding the fabric in a direct course
between the fixed and moveable guages, the fabric being passed over the
projection & farthest from the needle, and under the projection d¹ nearest
the needle, as shown clearly in my Drawing. The fold is flattened or a
pressed down as the work proceeds by an inclined tongue of metal e
secured to the upper strip a close up to the fixed guage b; c' is the
socket for attaching the said tucker to my'universal adjustable guage
(Figure 1).
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or
carried into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to
be novel and original and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me
by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First. The peculiar construction and arrangement of universally
adjustable guage for enabling sewing machine attachments to be fitted
to machines of different make, substantially as herein-before described
and illustrated by Figures 1 and 2 of my Drawings.
Second. The forming a spiral socket or button on a sewing machine
attachment for connecting it to a universally adjustable guage of the
construction herein-before specified.

page_text: Third. The combination with a broad hemmer of a centre piece or
flat plate attached to the turned up edge of the scroll, substantially as
and for the purpose herein-before described and illustrated by Figure 3
of my Drawings.
Fourth. The combination with a double scroll binder of a central
guiding plate situate between the two scrolls of the binder, substantially
as and for the purpose herein-before described and illustrated by Figure 5
of my Drawings.
Fifth. The peculiar construction of central guiding plate, as herein-
before described and illustrated by Figure 6 of my Drawings.
Sixth. The construction of rufflers having double separator plates
situate between the presser foot and the feeder, and projecting beyond
the needle, substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein-before
described and illustrated by Figures 9, 10, 12, and 13, of my Drawings.
Seventh. The combination of the above described double separator
plate with adjustable pressing arms or holders, substantially in the
manner and for the purpose herein-before described and illustrated by
Figures 9, 10, 12, and 18 of my Drawings.
Eighth. The peculiar construction of tucker or tuck folder, as herein-
before described and illustrated by Figure 14 of my Drawings.
In.witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Brigham Bishop, have to
this my Specification set my hand and seal, this Twenty-fourth
day of January, One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
four.