AN IM- PROVEMENT IN WEAVING, PREPARING, OR MANUFACTURING CLOTH OR FABRIC, AND THE APPLICATION THEREOF TO THE MAKING OF STAYS AND OTHER ARTICLES OP DRESS, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1828

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
SIMISTER, of Bull Street, Bermingham, in the County of Warwick, send
greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King George the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Eighteenth day of December, in the ninth year of His reign,
did, for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
James Simister, His special licence that I, the said James Simister, my exors,
adñiors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Simister, my
exors, adiñors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "AN IM-
PROVEMENT IN WEAVING, PREPARING, OR MANUFACTURING CLOTH OR FABRIC, AND
THE APPLICATION THEREOF TO THE MAKING OF STAYS AND OTHER ARTICLES OP
DRESS, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO OTHER PURPOSES;" in
which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso obliging me, the said James
Simister, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to
describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, and to cause the same to be inrolled in His said
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and

page_text: immediately after the date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in and by the
same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
James Simister, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are particularly described
and ascertained in and by the Drawings hereunto annexed, and the following
description thereof (that is to say) :-
My said Invention partly consists in an improvement in the weaving,
preparing, or manufacturing of a cloth or fabric for, and in the application of
it to the making of stays, with the required spaces left open between the cloth
in the weaving thereof for the introduction of the whalebone, steel, wood,
cotton, or any article or material with which stays are or may be filled, and by
which improvement the sewing or stitching together of the cloths or fabric by
hand for that purpose as heretofore is avoided, or at least the greater part
thereof.
Another part of my said Invention applies to an improvement in the manu-
facture of a cloth or fabric for, and in the application thereof to, the making
of gentlemen's elastic braces of silk, cotton, &c., and that require filling, by
leaving the requisite spaces between the cloth in the weaving thereof for the
introduction of the whalebone, springs, or other substances or materials with
which such articles are or may be filled, and also to purses, bags, or reticules,
and by which improvement the sewing or stitching together of the cloths or
fabrics by hand as heretofore, or the greater part thereof, is likewise avoided.
After the warp is beamed, in order to weave a cloth or fabric for stays, I
proceed to draw in or through the heald and reed a satteen face and back, as
shewn in Figure One, Drawing Number 1, when cross stitching is required,
and as shewn in Figure 8 when cross stitching is not required. I then
proceed to beam the cord, stitching, binding, or joining warp on another beam,
and draw the ends in or through the healds on the stitching, binding, or
joining shafts marked C and D, in Figure 1, or through the eyes, mails or
moils, and reed, as the pattern requires, using more or fewer shafts for working
the stitching, binding, or joining ends as the pattern may require. The stitching,
binding, or joining, or cord ends that are not required to drop or work out
underneath, as is herein-after mentioned, may be taken out of the warp of which
the cloth or fabric is made, but all the ends which are wanted to work occa-
sionally to patern I put on a seperate beam, as above mentioned. In Figure 1
of Drawing No. 1 I have introduced the two stitching, binding, or joining
shafts C and D, as shewn in the tie-up, the way in which I work them.
thus enabled, with a double-boxed lathe and two shuttles, to make either a
I am

page_text: coloured face cloth and a white back, or otherwise. The draft and tie-up,
Figure 1 of Drawing Number 1, is descriptive of a twofold sattern on twelve
shafts (that is, six shafts for each single sattern), besides the two stitching,
binding, or joining shafts, marked C and D, and spaced shafts for cross stitching,
marked E and F. But I do not confine myself to the using of any number
of shafts. The cloth or fabric is united, joined, or woven together by these
cords, stitching, binding, or joining ends, as is herein-after described.
In Figure 1 of Drawing No. 1 the shafts E and F are spaced as the pattern
may require for cross stitching, as herein-after mentioned, and the shafts
2 and 12 are spaced to fasten the cross stitching in the back cloth, and which
stitching is done by means of two sheds, as shewn in the tie-up with the
treadles, marked A and B. These two treadles A and B I tread at one time,
which, of course, makes the double shed. The stitching I perform with an
instrument or needle shewn in Figure 13 of Drawing No. 2, which swells, as
shewn at K, K, in order to prevent the warp from catching as it returns
through the sheds. This instrument should, of course, be a little longer than
the breadth of the cloth woven. This cross stitching may be done with threads
either of silk, cotton, or of any other fit and proper fibrous material or materials,
and which said threads I wind on a warping bobbin, and place it on a piece of
wire driven into the left post of the loom, or in any other convenient situation,
so that when the stitching needle or instrument above mentioned is passed
through the sheds, and the silk, cotton, or whatever other thread may be used
to stitch with is hooked on the tongue of the needle or instrument, the loose
end of the silk, cotton, &c. being held fast by the weaver, and the bobbin
twining upon the wire, as above stated, it will, when the needle or instrument
is drawn back, furnish two threads of the silk, cotton, or whatever else may be
used for the stitching. When the stitching is not required to appear on the
face cloth the needle or instrument is introduced in the lower shed, which
secures the cross stitching in the back cloth, and is brought up into the upper
shed when the stitching is required to appear on the face cloth.
Figure 8 in Drawing No. 1 is a draft and tie-up for a plain twofold
satteen, and the mounting, &c. &c., must be added, as in Figure 1, or as the
pattern to be woven may require. The shafts marked C and D in Figure 1
are shafts which are spaced with the stitching, binding, joining, uniting, or
cord ends, marked O, O, &c., to pattern, and to which, however, more shafts
may be added. These, when at work, stitch, bind, join, unite, or fasten the
cloth together at the spaced distances, and they are to be worked or not
according to the intended pattern. I work them with hooks and eyes fixed on
the streamer cord or cords, or the cord or cords attached to the long lamb or
0

page_text: The
lambs from the jack or jacks, which jack or jacks when not at work remain on
a rest affixed upon the jack ladder, when, of course, the stitching, binding,
joining, or cord ends work out underneath, they being unhooked and let down
for that purpose. The hooks and eyes are fixed on the streamer cord or cords
at a sufficient distance, so as when hooked up to allow a sufficient shed when
at work, and so as that when they are unhooked the stitching, binding, joining,
or cord ends will work out underneath the cloth; the weaver, howsoever, may
work them either in the above or in any other way preferred by him that will
answer the purpose. In Figure 1 the cord or stitching ends marked G, G, G,,G,
are drawn in through. the eyes, mails or moiles, and reed to any extent, to
work the required pattern, with which, and with mounting and camber board,
an engine or engines or any other machine adapted to the purpose, or with.
shafts and dobby or. dobbin and engine, various patterns or figures may bo
woven in the cloth or fabric for stays, the stitching ends being worked by an
engine or engines, dobby or dobbin, or by any other machine adapted to the
purpose. When it is required or thought necessary they may be made secure
and fastened in the back cloth by means of the long lamb marked Hin
Figure 1, which is tied to the tail of the mounting, as will be seen in the
tie-up, and which causes the whole of the stitching ends marked G to bind.
twice every round of the treadles, but this may be varied, at pleasure.
cord, stitching, binding, or joining ends marked "extra" in Figure 1 are drawn
through the eyes, mails or moils, and reed, as the pattern may require. When
a pattern is required such as is shewn in Figure 9 of Drawing No. 2, I
work it with eyes or pieces of wire bent as shewn in Figure 10 of Drawing
No. 2. These are fastened to the neck threads of the eyes, mails, or moils.
I have a hook similar to that shewn in Figure 11, Drawing No. 2, which is
fastened to and works' with the jack that works either of the binding, joining,
or stitching shafts. I have also another hook affixed into the jack ladder
shaped like that shewn in Figure 12 of Drawing No. 2, which is stationary.
When the eyes, Figure 10, are hung upon the hook, Figure 12, affixed into
the jack ladder, the stitching, binding, joining or cord ends work out under-
neath, but when required to join or unite the cloth they are put on the hook,
Figure 11, which is fixed to and works with the jack as above mentioned,
the eyes being moved in rotation or otherwise, as the pattern may require.
It will be seen, by Figures 1.and 8, that for a twofold satteen cloth there
are four ends in one dent of the reed. Figure 2 is descriptive of a threefold
cloth, having a satteen back and face with a middle cloth, and which is worked,
as Figure 1, to pattern, with mounting camber board, engine, &c. &c., as
before described. I shoot or pick the middle or centre cloth with coarse soft-

page_text: as
weft or wadding, which will give it substance, that being my object in
having a middle cloth. This cloth has five ends in one dent of the recd.
Figure 3, is descriptive of a fourfold cloth, having a satteen back and
face, with two middle cloths. This is worked with mounting, &c. added
Figuro 1, and according to the required pattern. This cloth has six ends in
one dent of the reed. Figure 4 is a cloth with a satteen face and a plain
back, and is stitched or united together with the shafts I and J, as shewn
in tie-up, to which more shafts may be added or fewer used as the pattern
may require; it is merely intended to shew that the stitching, binding,
joining, or weaving the cloth together may be performed in a great variety of
ways. This cloth has three ends in one dent of the reed, and is stitched or
united together in a different way, from Figure 1, or the cloth with the varied
spaces may also be joined or woven together in the loom on the shoot or weft
way, if preferred. Figure 5 is descriptive of a double cloth, with a satteen
face and a plain back; this is worked to pattern with mounting, &c. as before
described. This cloth has three ends in one dent of the reed. Figure 6 is
descriptive of a ribbed or corded double cloth, which is worked to
mounting, &c. This cloth has two ends in one dent of the reed.
a three shaft twilled face, cloth, and a plain back cloth, which is worked to
pattern with mounting, &c.. This cloth has four ends in one dent of the reed.
The ends in each dent in all the cases above mentioned are for the making
plain cloth only, and therefore all stitching, binding, joining, or cord ends
are to be put in "extra" at the requisite spaces for working or making tho
various patterns required..
pattern with
Figure 7 is
The Figures with the descriptions already given will shew that any cloth
or fabric can be woven with the varied spaces in it as requisite for stays,
and whether of two, three, or four fold, et cetera, and also whether the face-
and back cloth be of, the same sort or make, or of the same, colour or not.
I deem the drafts and tie-ups herein described to be sufficient to shew that
any cloth, whether of two, three, or four folds, with the varied spaces requisite
for stays, may be woven with the face of one sort, or make or colour, and the
back of any other. If the cross stitching beforo described be done with silk,
I then use bleached warp and weft for white goods. They are then scoured
and finished, but if I stitch, with cotton or linen I use grey warp and weft,
and then the goods are bleached and finished, afterwards. I mention this as
the operation of bleaching spoils or discolours the silk. I shall now proceed to
afford an example in Figure 14 of Drawing Number 3, of the front of a pair of
stays woven in the following manner: The cord stitching, binding, or joining
ends marked L, L, L, L, are worked on the shaft D in Figure 1, Drawing,

page_text: Number I. The stitching ends marked G, G, G, G, in that Figure work, with
the engine, et cetera, the parts marked M, M, in Figure 14. The cord
binding, joining, or stitching ends marked N, N, et cetera, in that Figure,
are worked on the shaft C, in Figure 1, and those marked Q, Q, et cetera,
are drawn through the eyes, mails, or moils and reed, and worked with the
eye and hooks shewn in Figures 10, 11, and 12 of Drawing No. 2, which eye
works on the hook 11 until sufficient cloth is woven to reach to P, P, P, P, of
Figure 14, in Drawing Number 3. When the shaft C is to be unhooked,
and the eye Figure 10 is to be removed from the hook Figure 11, to hook
Figure 12, and the engine is also to be stopped from working the parts M, M,
the cord stitching or binding ends L, L, L, L, still continue working, the ends
P, P, P, P, are worked with the eye and hooks, Figures 10, 11, and 12 of
Drawing No. 2, before described. The cross stitching X, X, X, X, is then
worked in the following manner:-The treadles A, B, in Figure 1, being
both worked together, or brought down, form a double shed; the needle,
Figure 13, of Drawing No. 2, is then passed through the under shed in those
parts which are to be woven plain and brought up to the upper shed, and
passed through those parts which are to be stitched. Having thus been
passed across the warp, it is to be filled with the silk, cotton, or other thread in
the manner before described, and upon being drawn back, the stitching will
appear upon the face cloth, and will have united the two cloths together.
Where the stitching does not appear upon the face cloth the thread is fastened
in the back cloth, the ends P, P, P, P, continuing to be worked as above
stated until the remainder of the front of the stays is woven. When the
cross stitching X, X, X, X, is finished, the cord ends Y, Y, Y, Y, are worked
with the eye and hook, and the eye which had remained hooked down on
Figure 12 during the working of the cross
from the hook Figure 12 to the other hook
Y, Y, Y, Y, and Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, are
front, thus joining or uniting the cloth together. The dropping ends
R,R, S, S, T, T, U, U, V, V, and W, W, are worked with the eye and hooks,
Figures 10, 11, and 12, in the manner above described. Of course in working
the sides and backs of the stays, and also the belts, purses, bags, or reticules,
different arrangements must be made, but the above example will indicate the
method of doing it. Double, treble, or fourfold cloths or fabrics for making
clastic braces may be woven in the following manner :-When the warp is
beamed, and the ends drawn through the healds and reed in the manner
shewn in Figure 8, Drawing No. 1, which is for a double satteen, or in any
other manner, according to the description of the cloth required, a stitching,
stitching X, X, X, X, is removed
Figure 11, when the cord ends
worked to the length of the stay

page_text: binding, or joining shaftis, added; as at C in Figure 1 through the healds of
which the joining or uniting ends aróidrawn, and afterwards through the reed
and at sufficient: distances apart to allow the springs or other élastic materials
to bel introduced between the reloths. This shaft is either worked by the eye
and hook:affixed to the streamer, cord, or otherwise as before described; for
weaving each end of the braces; which are required to be left open for the
introduction of the straps, whether, of (leather, or any lotlier, material:::ĬThe
stitching or binding shaft C is dropped or unhooked, and when sufficient cloth
for that purpose is woven, it is again to be hooked up, and the stitching,
binding, &c. of the cloths together to be continued until another end is
required to be left open, and so on until the cloth is finished. The parts of
the stays and of the belts and braces are to be cut out or shaped as usual, and
to be sewn together and finished in the accustomed modes, my improvements
extending only to the weaving of the cloths or fabrics together with the
required spaces left therein for the filling with steel, whalebone, wood, &c. &c.,
as before mentioned, and whereby the greater part of the sewing or stitching
them together for that purpose is avoided. I do not, however, mean or
intend hereby to claim the foregoing as the only methods of weaving a double,
treble, or fourfold cloth or other fabric with the requisite spaces for the filling
left therein for the making of stays, belts, and braces, it being possible in a
great variety of other ways to weave cloth together, and thus to avoid the
necessity of sewing or stitching them together by hand as heretofore, or at
least the greater part thereof. Neither do I mean or intend hereby to claim as
my Invention the weaving of a double cloth together with spaces left therein,
to be afterwards filled with bristles, &c., for the purpose of forming stiffners
for stocks, cravats, or neck cloths, such having already been made. But I
do hereby claim the weaving, preparing, or manufacturing a cloth or fabric,
whether two, three, four, or more folds, with spaces woven therein, and
applying the same to the making of stays, belts, and braces, which require
filling, and also for purses, bags, or reticules, and whether woven of silk,
cotton, hemp, linen, woollen, or any other fit and proper animal or vegetable
substance or substances mixed together, and whether joined or united together
in the weaving in one or more places, and in whatever mode, form, or manner
the same may be woven.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Simister, have hereunto set my
in the year of
hand and seal, this
-
day
-
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine.
JAMES (L.s.) SIMISTER.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Eighteenth day of June, in
the year of our Lord 1829, the aforesaid James Simister came before our
said Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Eighteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine.

page_text: In the Matter of a Patent granted to JAMES SIMISTER, of Bull Street,
Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, for his Invention of "AN
IMPROVEMENT IN WEAVING, PREPARING, OR MANUFACTURING A CLOTH OR
FABRIC, AND THE APPLICATION THEREOF TO THE MAKING OF STAYS AND
OTHER ARTICLES OF DRESS, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE
TO OTHER PURPOSES;" bearing date at Westminster, the Eighteenth
day of December, in the ninth year of the reign of His late
Majesty George the Fourth, to which a Specification was duly
enrolled.
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION proposed
to be entered by the said James Simister, with the Clerk of the Patents.
of England, pursuant to an Act passed in the Fifth and Sixth years of
the reign of His late Majesty William the Fourth, intituled "An
Act to amend the Law touching Letters Patent for Inventions.
I, the said James Simister, did describe my Invention to consist,-
First, of an improvement in weaving, preparing, or manufacturing a cloth
or fabric, and the application thereof to the making of stays, such fabric or
cloth being double, and having spaces to receive whalebone, steel, or wood,
and, when desired, other spaces combined with the previously mentioned spaces
to receivo cotton or other filling used in the manufacture of stays; and
Secondly, of an improvement in making a cloth or fabric and applying it
to other articles of dress; which improvement are also stated to be applicable
to other purposes.
Since the taking of such Letters Patent, and since the inrolment of
the said Specification, the said first part of the Invention has become
highly useful, but the second part of the Invention has not proved to be
useful; for which reasons I am desirous to disclaim all those parts of the
Specification and of the Drawings annexed thereto, and all that part of the
Title which relate to other matters than that above described as the first part
of the Invention; and for such purpose I do disclaim all those words which
are ruled through with red ink in the copy of my said Specification which
forms part of this Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration, and is hereunder
written; and also the words ruled through in the Title. And, with a viow to

page_text: make sense of those parts of the Specification which will remain, and in order
that the Invention may be strictly confined to the weaving, preparing, or
manufacturing a cloth or fabric and the application thereof to the making of
stays, as described in the first part of the Invention, I have introduced the
words underlined with red in the Copy of my said Specification hereunder
written.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Simister, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-two.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
SIMISTER, of Bull Street, Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, send
greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King George the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Eighteenth day of December, in the ninth year of His
reign did, for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said James Simister, His special licence that I, the said James Simister, my
exors, adiiors, or assigns, or such others as I, the said James Simister, my
exors, adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "AN IM-
PROVEMENT IN WEAVING, PREPARING, OR MANUFACTURING A CLOTH OR FABRIC,
AND THE APPLICATION THEREOF TO THE MAKING OF STAYS, and other articles of
Dress, which-Improvements are also applicable to other Purposes;" in which said
Letters Patent is contained a proviso obliging me, the said James Simister, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to describe and
ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, and to cause the same to be enrolled in His said Majesty's High
Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being
thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
James Simister, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and

page_text: the manner in which the same is to be performed, are particularly described
and ascertained in and by the Drawings hereunto annexed, and the following
description thereof (that is to say):-
My said Invention consists in an improvement in the weaving, preparing,
or manufacturing of a cloth or fabric for, and in application of it to, the
making of stays, with the required spaces left open between the cloth in the
weaving thereof for the introduction of the whalebone, steel, or wood, and,
when desired, other spaces to receive cotton or any fibrous article or material
with which stays are or may be filled, and by which improvement the sewing
or stitching together of the clothes or fabrics by hand for that purpose as
heretofore is avoided, or at least the greater part thereof.
Another part of my said Invention applies to an improvement in-the-manufae-
ture-of-cloth or fabrio for and in the application thereof to the making of gentle-
men's elastic-braces of silk, cotton, &e., and that require-filling, by leaving the
requisite spaces between the cloth in the weaving thereof for the introduction-of
the whalebone, springs, or other substances or materials with which such ertieles
are or may be filled, and also to purses, bags, or reticules, and by which improve-
ment the sewing or stitching together of the cloths or fabrics by hand-as heretofore,
or the greater-part thereof, is likewise-avoided.
After the warp is beamed, in order to weave a cloth or fabric for stays, I
proceed to draw in or through the healds and reed a satteen face and back, as
shewn in Figure One, Drawing Number 1, when cross stitching is required,
and as shewn Figure 8 when cross stitching is not required. I then proceed
to beam the cord, stitching, binding, or joining warp on another beam, and
draw the ends in or through the healds on the stitching, binding, or joining
shafts marked C and D, in Figure 1, or through the eyes, mails, or moils
and reed, as the pattern requires, using more or fewer shafts for working the
stitching, binding, or joining ends as the pattern may require. The stitching,
binding, or joining or cord ends that are not required to drop or work out
underneath, as is herein-after mentioned, may be taken out of the warp of
which the cloth or fabric is made, but all the ends which are wanted to work
occasionally to pattern I put on a separate beam, as above mentioned.
In Figure 1 of Drawing No. 1 I have introduced the two stitching, binding,
or joining shafts C and D, and shown in the tie-up the way which I work
them. I am thus enabled with a double-boxed lathe and two shuttles to make
either a coloured-face cloth and a white back, or otherwise. The draft and
tic-up, Figure 1, of Drawing Number 1, is descriptive of a twofold satteen
on twelve shafts (that is, six shafts for each single satteen, besides the
two stitching, binding, or joining shafts marked C and D, and spaced

page_text: e
shafts for cross stitching marked E and F, but I do not confine myself to
the using of any number of shafts. The cloth or fabric is 'united, joined, or
woven together by these cord, stitching, binding, or joining ends as is herein-
after described in Figure 1 of Drawing No. 1.. The shafts E and F are
spaced as the pattern may require for cross stitching, as herein-after-men-
tioned, and the shafts 2 and 12 are spaced to fasten the cross stitching in the
back cloth, and which stitching is done by means of two sheds, as shewn in
the tie up, with the treadles marked A and B. These two treadles A and B
I tread at one time, which of course makes the double shed. The stitching I
perform with an instrument or needle, shewn in Figuro 13 of Drawing
No. 2, which swells, as shown at K, K, in order to prevent the warp
from catching as it returns through the sheds.. This instrument should
of course be a little longer, than the breadth of the cloth woven. This
cross stitching may be done with threads either of silk, cotton, or of any
other fit and proper fibrous material or materials, and which said threads
I wind on a worping bobbin, and place it on a piece of wire driven
into the left post of the loom, or in any other convenient situation, . so
that when the stitching needle or instrument above mentioned is passed
through the sheds, and the silk, cotton, or whatever other thread may be,
used to stitch with is hooked on the tongue of the needle or instrument, the
loose end of the silk, cotton, &c., being held fast by the weaver, and the
bobbin turning upon the wire as above stated, it will, when the needle. or.
instrument is drawn back, furnish two threads of the silk, cotton, or whatever
else may be used for the stitching. When the stitching is not required to
appear on the face cloth the needle or instrument is introduced in the lower
shed, which secures the cross stitching in the back cloth, and is brought up
into the upper shed when the stitching is required to appear on the face
cloth..
Figure 8, in Drawing No. 1, is a draft and tie-up for a plain twofold satteen,
and the mounting, &c. &c., must be added as in Figure 1, or as the pattern.
to be woven may require. The shafts. marked C and D, Figure 1, are shafts.
which are spaced with the stitching, binding, joining, uniting, or cord ends.
marked o, o, &c. to pattern, and to which, however, more shafts may be.
added. These, when at work, stitch, bind, join, unite, or fasten the cloth.
together at the spaced distances, and they are to be worked or not, according
to the intended pattern. I work them with hooks and eyes fixed on the
streamer, cord, or cords, or the cord or cords attached to the long lamb or
lambs from the jack or jacks, which jack or jacks, when not at work, remain.
on a rest affixed upon a jack ladder, when of course the stitching, binding,

page_text: joining, or cord ends work out underneath, they being unhooked and let down for
that purpose. The hooks and eyes are fixed on the streamer, cord, or cords,
at a suficient distance, so as when hooked up to allow a sufficient shed when
at work, and so as that when they are unhooked, the stitching, binding, joining,
or cord ends will work out. underneath the cloth. The weaver, however,
may work them either in the above or in any other way preferred by him that
will answer the purpose. In Figure 1 the cord or stitching ends.marked
G, G, G, G, are drawn in through the eyes, mails or moils, and reed, any
extent, to work the required pattern, with which, and with mounting and
camber board, an engine or engines, or any other machine adapted to the
purpose, or with shafts and dobby or dobbin and engine, various patterns or
figures may be woven in the cloth or fabric for stays; the stitching ends
being worked by an engine or engines, dobby or dobbin, or by any other
machine adapted to the purpose. When it is required or thought necessary,
they may be made secure and fastened in the back cloth by means of the
long lamb marked H, in Figure 1, which is tied to the pulley of the engine
that draws the tail of the mounting, as will be seen in the tie-up, and which
causes the whole of the stitching ends marked G to bind twice every round of
the treadles; but this may be varied at pleasure. The cord, stitching, binding,
or joining ends marked "extra" in Figure 1 are drawn through the eyes,
mails or moils, and reed, as the pattern may require.
When a pattern is required such as is shewn in Figure 9 of Drawing No. 2,
I work it with eyes or pieces of wire, bent as shewn in Figure 10 of Drawing
No. 2. These are fastened to the neck threads of the eyes, mails, or moils.
I have a hook similar to that shewn in Figure 11, Drawing No. 2, which is
fastened to and works with the jack that works either of the binding, joining,
or stitching shafts. I bave also another hook affixed into the jack ladder,
shaped like that shewn in Figure 12 of Drawing No. 2, which is stationary
when the eyes, Figure 10, are hung upon the hook, Figure 12, affixed into
the jack ladder, the stitching, binding, joining, or cord ends work out under-
neath; but when required to join or unite the cloth, they are put on the
hook, Figure 11, which is fixed to and works with the jack, as above
mentioned, the eyes being moved in rotation or otherwise, as the pattern may
require.
It will be seen, by Figures 1 and 8, that for for a twofold--satteen eloth-there
are four ends in one dent of the reed..
Figure 9 is descriptive of a threefold cloth, having a satteen back and face, with
a-middle-cloth, and which is worked es Figure 1 to pattern, with mounting,
eamber-board engine, &e. &e., as before-described. I choot or pick the middle-or

page_text: eentre eloth with coarse soft-welt or wadding, which will give it substance, that
being my object in having a middle-cloth. This cloth has five-ends-in-one-dent-of
the reed.
Figure 3 is descriptive of a fourfold cloth having a satteen back and face with
two-middle cloths. This is worked with mounting, &e., udded as Figure-1,
end according to the required pattern. This cloth has six ends in one-dent of
the reed.
Figure 4 is a cloth with a satteen face and a plain back, and is stitched
or united together with the shafts I and J, as shewn in tic-up, to which
more shafte may be added or fewer used, as the pattern may require. It is
merely intended to shew that the stitching, binding, joining, or weaving the
cloth together may be performed in a great variety of ways. This cloth has
three ends in one dent of the reed, and is stitched or united together in a
different way from Figure 1, or the cloth with the varied spaces may also be
joined or woven together in the loom on the shoot or weft way if preferred.
Figure 5 is a description of a double cloth with a satteen face and a plain
back. This is worked to pattern with mounting, &c., as before described.
This cloth has three ends in one dent of the reed.
Figure 6 is descriptive of a ribbed or corded double cloth, which is
worked to pattern with mounting, &c. This cloth has two ends in one dent
of the reed.
Figure 7 is a three shaft twilled face cloth and a plain back cloth, which is
worked to pattern with mounting, &c. This cloth has four ends in one dent
of the reed. The ends in each dent in all the cases above mentioned are for
the making plain cloth only, and therefore all stitching, binding, joining, or
cord ends are to be put in "extra" at the requisite spaces for working
or making the various patterns required.
The Figures with the descriptions already given will shew that any cloth or
fabric can be woven with the varied spaces in it as requisite for stays, and
whether of two, three, or four-fold-et-eetera; and also whether the face and
back cloth be of the same sort or make, or of the same colour or not, I deem
the shafts and tic-ups herein described to be sufficient to shew that any cloth,
whether of two, three, or four-folds, with the varied spaces requisite for stays,
may be woven with the face of one sort or make or colour, and the back of
any other. If the cross stitching before described be done with silk, I then
use bleached warp and weft for white goods. They are then scoured and
finished. But if I stitch with cotton or linen, I use grey warp and weft, and
then the goods are bleached and finished afterwards. I mention this as
the operation of bleaching spoils or discolours the silk.

page_text: I shall now proceed to afford an example in Figure 14 of Drawing Number 3,
of the front of a pair of stays woven in the following manner:-The cord,
stitching, binding, or joining ends marked L, L, L, L, are worked on the
shaft D in Figure 1, Drawing Number 1. The stitching ends marked
G, G, G, G, in that Figure work with the engine et cetera the parts marked
M, M, in Figure 14. The cord, binding, joining, or stitching ends marked
N, N, et cetera, in that Figure, are worked on the shaf C in Figure 1, and
those marked Q, Q, et cetera, are drawn through the eyes, mails or moils,
and reed, and worked with the eye and hooks shewn in Figures 10, 11,
and 12, of Drawing No. 2, which eye works on the hook 11, until sufficient
cloth is woven to reach to P, P, P, P, of Figure 14, in Drawing No. 3, when
the shaft C is to be unhooked and the eye, Figure 10, is to bo removed
from the hook, Figure 11, to the hook, Figure 12, and the engine is also to
be stopped from working the parts M, M, the cord, stitching, or binding
ends L, L, L, L, still continue working. The ends P, P, P, P, arc worked
with the eye and hooks, Figures 10, 11, and 12, of Drawing No. 2, before
described. The cross stitching X, X, X, X, is then worked in the following
manner: The treadles A, B, in Figure 1, being both worked together or
brought down from a double shed, the needle, Figure 13, of Drawing No. 2,
is then passed through the under shed in those parts which are to be woven
plain, and brought up to the upper shed and passed through those parts
which are to be stitched. Having thus been passed across the warp it is
to be filled with the silk, cotton, or other thread in the manner before
described, and upon being drawn back the stitching will appear upon the
face cloth, and will have united the two cloths together. Where the
stitching does not appear upon the face cloth the thread is fastened in
the back cloth, the ends P, P, P, P, continuing to be worked as above
stated, until the remainder of the front of the stays is woven, When
the cross stitching X, X, X, X, is finished the cord ends Y, Y, Y, Y,
are worked with the eye and hook, and the eye which had remained hooked
down on Figure 12 during the working of the cross stitching X, X, X, X, is
removed from the hook, Figure 12, to the other hook, Figure 11, when the
cord ends Y, Y, Y, Y, and Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, are worked to the length
of the stay front, thus joining or uniting the cloth together. The dropping
ends, R, R, S, S, T, T, U, U, V, V, and W, W, are worked with the eye
and kooks, Figures 10, 11, and 12, in the manner above described.
course in working the sides and backs of the stays, and also the belts, purses,
bags, or reticules, different arrangements must be made, but the above
Of

page_text: וגיר טוש
eloth or fabries for making elastie braces may be woven in the following
manner: When the warp is beamed and the ends drawn through the healds and
reeds in the manner chewn in Figure S, Drawing No. 1, which is for a double satteeny
or-in any other manner, according to the description of the cloth-required, a-stitch
ing, binding, or joining shaft is added, as at C, in Figure is through the healts of
which the joining or uniting ends are drawn, and afterwards through the reed,
and at sufficient distances apart to allow the springs or other elastic materials to
be-introduced between the eloths. This shaft is either worked by the eye and hook
affixed to the streamer, cord, or otherwise, as before described for weaving-each
end of the braces, which are required to be left open for the introduction of the
straps, whether of leather or any other material. The stitching or binding shaft C
is dropped or unhooked, and when suffieient eloth for that purpose is woven-it-is
again to be hooked up, and the stitching, binding, &e. of the cloths together to be
continued -until-another end is required to be left-open, and so on until the cloth is
finished. The parts of the stays, and of the bolts and braces, are to be cut out
or shaped as usual, and to be sewn together and finished in the accustomed
modes, my improvement extending only to the weaving of the cloths or
fabrics, together with the required spaces left therein, for the filling with
steel, whalebone, wood, &c. &c., as before mentioned, and whereby the
greater part of the sewing or stitching them together for that purpose
avoided. I do not, however, mean or intend hereby to claim-the confine
myself to the foregoing as the only methods of weaving a double, treble, or
four-fold cloth or other fabric, with the requisite spaces for filling left therein
for the making of stays, belts, and braces, it being possible, in a great variety
of other ways, to weave cloth together, and thus to avoid necessity of sewing
or stitching them together by hand, as heretofore or at least the greater part
thereof. And I wish it to be understood that I do not claim the applying any
of the various double fabrics formerly made to the purpose of making stays, the
spaces of such former fabrics not being arranged and formed suitably for
receiving the whalebone, steel, or wood employed or used in stays. And, further,
I do not claim the weaving of cloths or fabrics with spaces for cotton or other
fibrous filling used in the making of stays when separately considered. But I
wish to confine my Invention to weaving double-spaced fabrics, and applying them
to the making of stays only, when the spaces are so arranged and produced by wear-
ing as to be suitable for receiving the whalebone, steel, or wood used in the manu-
facture of stays, and when desired other spaces combined therewith for receiving
cotton or other usual fibrous filling employed in the manufacture of stays. Neither
is

page_text: do I mean or intend hereby to-claim as my Invention the weaving of a double
eleth, together with spaces left therein-to-be-afterwards filled-with-bristles &e.-for
the purpose of forming stiffeners for-stocks, cravats, or neek cloths, such having
already been made. But I do hereby claim the weaving, preparing, or manufae-
turing a cloth or fabric, whether two, three, or more folds, with space-woven
therein, and applying the same to the making of stays, belts, and braces, which
require felling, and also for purses, bags, or reticules, and whether woven of silly
cotton, hemp, linen, woollen, or any other fit and proper animal or vegetable
substance or substances mixed together, and whether joined or united together-in
the wearing in one or more places, and in whatever mode, form, of Maumer
the same may be woven.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Simister, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine.
To the Clerk of the Patents of England.
This is to certify that the above-named James Simister, of Bull Street,
Birmingham, in the 'County of Warwick, has applied to me for leave to enter
with you the above-written Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration of part
of the title and Specification of a certain Invention for which Letters Patent
were duly granted to him under the Great Seal of Great Britain, dated at
Westminster, the Eighteenth day of December, One thousand eight hundred
and Twenty-eight, and to which a Specification was duly enrolled; and, on
considering the said application, I directed him to advertise his said Disclaimer
and Memorandum of Alteration in the public newspapers and London
Gazette, and such advertizements having been made accordingly, namely in
the Times and Morning Chronicle newspapers, and London Gazette, on
the 22nd of April last, and in the Manchester Guardian and Birmingham
Gazette on the 25th of the same month, and no objection having been duly
made, I have therefore granted leave to the said James Simister to file his
said Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration, pursuant to the Statute
passed in the fifth and sixth years of His late Majesty King William the
Fourth, entitled An Act" to amend the Law touching Letters Patent for
Inventions.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twelfth day of May, in
the year of our Lord 1842, the aforesaid James Simister came before
our said Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Disclaimer
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Disclaimer aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Seventh day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-two.