IMPROVE- MEUT3 IN APPARATUS FOR MEASURING PERSONS AND FOR FACILITATING THE FITTING OF GARMENTS
Year: 1851

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EMILIAN
DE DUNIN, of Queen Charlotte Row, New Road, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Tenth day of May,
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-one, in the fourteenth year of Hor reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Emilian de Dunin, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, Her especial licence, full
power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said Emilian de Dunin, my
exors, adiiors and assigns, or such others as I, the said Emilian de Dunin,
my exors, adors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVE-
MEUT3 IN APPARATUS FOR MEASURING PERSONS AND FOR FACILITATING THE FITTING
OF GARMENTS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I the
said Emilian de Dunin, shall cause a particular description of the nature of
my said Invention, and the mauner in which the same is to be performed, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, to be inrolled in IIer
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calender months next and im-
mediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and
by the
same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Emilian de Dunin, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention,
und the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon,
that is to say:-
The object of my Invention is to facilitate the fitting of garments for both
sexes. The apparatus shewn and described is intended for the measurement
of males only, but the parts may, with some slight alteration, be made suitable
for female measurement, and may be described as consisting of two parts, viz,
of a system of measurement to obtain the exact size and form of the individual,
and an adjusting figure to represent the same after measurement.
Figure 1 represents a front view of the measuring apparatus; it consists of
two parts, upper and lower, which open in front, similar to waistcoat and
trowsers. It is further composed of a number of lined straps, graduated; where
the straps intersect, are metal slides, distinguished by particular letters, and
which can be shifted in any required direction; the straps admit of elonga-
To use this
tion by the interposition of pieces of vulcanized india-rubber.
measurement, place it upon the person, buckle up the front, adjust the slides
to the most prominent parts of the body, and read off the intersections of the
straps as indicated by their respective slides, then note them down; afterwards
ascertain, by means of a tape measure, the expansion of each portion of india-
rubber, and note them down also. Having obtained the measurement, by the
means described, of an individual, to represent the same I place a similar
measure to that just described upon the adjusting figure when in its reduced
state; I then proceed to expand the figure until the measure indicates the
same dimensions as when on the individual.
Figure 2 is a front view of the expanding figure, with the left arm and leg
removed; Figure 3 is a side view of the same, as seen from the left side;
Figure 4 is a front view of the right arm; and Figure 5 is a side view of the
same; Figure 6 is a horizontal section shewing the upper movement of the
breast, taken through the line 1, 1, of Figure 2; Figure 7 is another hori-
zontal section, through 2, 2, Figure 2, shewing the manner of expanding
the parts of the chest horizontally; Figure 8 is a section through 3, 3,
Figure 2, shewing in what manner the expansion of the hips is effected;
Figure 9 is an under side view of the same; Figure 10 is a section taken
below the hip, and shews the manner of expanding the several parts forming
the posterior; Figure 11 shews three views of a slide, which for some
purposes, I prefer to the one shewn in the other Drawings; Figure 2 is a

page_text: front view of the figure when expanded; and Figure 3 is a side view of the
figure when at its smallest dimensions. The remainder of the Drawings are
details of some of the parts.
The mode of proceeding to expand the figure is as follows:-Place the
5 proper key upon the nipple of the axis a, and commence winding in the
direction of the arrow; upon the axis a is a pinion a', which takes into and
drives the crown wheel a³, through which a socket a³ is passed, having a
flanch, which serves to attach it to the crown wheel a³; this socket a³ passes
through the plate b, which forms part of the framing; two metal plates a', a°,
are slidden upon the socket a³, to which they are keyed, the plate a' being
above the plate b, and the plate a below it.
In the plates a, a, curved slots or openings are formed, in which small pro-
jections c, c, c, from the slides d, d', ds, are placed, and as these slotted plates
revolve with the socket as and crown wheel a², the slides d, d', de, are
caused to travel outwards, with the metal plates fixed to their extremities, and
forming the exterior of the figure. The slides d, d, d, d, d, have their pro-
jections c, c, c, c, c, upwards in the curved slots or channels of the upper
plate a', and the slides d', d', d, have their projections c¹, c, c, downwards
or from their under sides in the curved sloic. or channels of the plate a³. To
the outer ends of the slides d', d', are affixed pieces of metal e, c, having
passages, e, or spaces cut away from their upper sides, to allow of the small
racks e, e, to pass through, as shewn in dotted lines at Fig. 6; they have
each at one end a standard e', e, in which is one end of an axis e. To the
upper sides of the racks c', e, are attached to the slides f, f, which carry the
shoulders and arm. In a channel formed in each of the pieces c there is a
small slide g, which is provided at one end with teeth which take into those of the
small racks e, e, which, as the pieces e, e, travel with their slides, carry with them
the upper slides f,f, with which, as before stated, the arms and shoulders move.
Some persons, however, have breadth across their shoulders, without being
proportionately prominent at the breast; in such a case it will be necessary to
expand the shoulders without giving motion to the chest expansion apparatus,
and this purpose is gained by the following means:-First press down the
forked lever h at the part h', and in its descent it will bear down the levers
ha, ha, by pressure upon the pins h³, h, projecting from them; the levers h², h²,
are keyed to the hollow axes h', h, each of which has a feather upon its inside,
which enters the groove in the axes e', e', and causes the ends of the lovers
e, e, to be thrown back, and carry with them the small slides 9, 9, and thereby
throw them out of gear with the rack e, e. The forked lever h works upon
centres at ho, h, and has a vertical fork ho, which embraces the groove in the

page_text: collar A³, and causes it to slide upon the axis h³, and push before it the angular
slide ho, which has a part ho that drives the bevilled pinion i into gear with
the bevilled pinion on the axis ; the proper key is then to be slidden on the
axis h³ until its projecting parts enter the recesses cut in the socket ³, upon
which the pinion i is fixed; then wind in the direction of the arrow, keeping
the forked lever h down until the required expansion be obtained. Upon the
lower end of the axis of the bevilled pinion j there is a pinion ³, which takes
into and works the racks k, k, fixed on the slides f, f, and thus the expansion
takes place, after which the forked lever is set at liberty, and it assumes its
former position by means of the springs, l. The figure also is provided with
a means by which the shoulders may be brought more forward or backward,
also a means whereby they may be caused to travel upon centres; these
motions are seen best in the detached views, when one of the slides f having
these movements attached thereto is shown. There is a hole bored in the
plate f, through which a stud m is passed, and upon this stud the plate m¹ is
placed. At the outer end of the plate are teeth, taken into by the worm m³
on the axis m³, by giving motion to which, with a suitable key, the plate m'
will be caused to turn upon the stud muntil the requisite position be attained;
upon the upper side of the plate m³ grooves are formed to receive the slides
formed upon
the under sides of the angular plates m* which carry the shoulders;
from the front of the plate m¹ there projects another winding axis m³, which
is supported and affixed to the plate m³, as shown. Upon this axis m³ there
is a screw cut, which takes into cuts or indents upon the under side of the
plate m, whereby the plate m* will be caused to travel backward or forward
according to the direction in which the axis m' is turned. The outer ends of
the plates m, m, are turned up, and slots n, n, cut therein from the top to
receive the parts connecting the plates n' and n of the shoulders, which are
slidden on from above into the slots n, n, the plates n', n³, being on either side
of the plate m*; the plate n' has an eye n³ at its upper end, with a screw cut
therein in which the male screw n works, and the lower end or axis of the
screw n* rests in bearings n attached to the plate m, and is prevented from
rising out of such bearing by means of a pin passing through the bearing, as
shewn; by giving motion to the screw n the shoulders can be raised or lowered
by the eye n³ of the plate n¹ travelling upon its thread, as will be seen by
referring to the front view, Figure 2. To give length between the chest and
waist, place the proper key on the axis o, upon which is a pinion o' working
into a crown wheel of, which revolves loosely upon the hollow axis o" below the
crown wheel o², and affixed to it is a spur wheel o*, which gives motion to two
others o, o, fixed upon the axis o, o, upon which are formed screws workin

page_text: into the female screws formed in the sockets or tubes o, o, which are held to
the plate or framing by their nuts o", o, through which the upper ends of the
screwed axes 0, 0%, travel. To extend the length between waist and hip,
wind the handle upon the axis p to the right hand; upon the axis p is a
bevilled pinion p', taking into another bevilled pinion p² upon the axis p³,
which at its other end has another bevilled pinion p' taking into the bevilled
pinion p (which has a female screw cut therein), which revolves upon the
screw p fixed to the plate and iron arm p¹; p', p', p', are guides, also fixed in
the plate po, which pass through holes made for them in the plate p", and are
for the purpose of easing the screwed axis p' in its ascent and descent. To
expand the hips of the figure, place the key intended for that purpose in the
axis q, and wind to the right hand; on the axis q is the pinion q', which
works the pinion g' upon the axis q' in bearings q. Upon the axis q³ are also
fixed two pinions q³, taking into and driving the pinions q on the hollow shaft
or axis q', having its bearing at 9. The outer ends of the hollow shaft or
axis q' have female screws cut therein for the male screws of the slide q° to
work in. The outer bearing of the axis q' travel with the slide q°. The legs
are attached to these slides q, and work in the slots q¹, see under side view,
Figure 9, formed in the plate q" of the framing; the pinions q take into and
drive the crown wheel r, see front view, Figure 2, on the axis r', one of
which is only shewn, the other being removed with the left leg); at the lower
end of the axis is a pinion, taking into and driving the spur wheel r³,
which gives motion to the thigh expansion, and as that motion is precisely
similar to that before described for expanding the chest, it will be unnecessary
to repeat the same. The manner of giving length to the limbs are all similar,
therefore it will suffice to explain one of such movements. I have for example
shewn the thigh in details, of which the following is a description:-s is a box
or framing for a train of wheels; s¹ is the axis; when the winding takes place,
place the key at 8', wind to the left to lengthen, and to the right to shorten ;
on the axis s¹ is a pinion s, taking into another pinion on the axis 8', upon
which is a worms, which drives the worm wheel so upon the shaft s', upon
which is also a pinion s, which takes into the rack so, as seen in the side view,
Figure 3; the rack passes through the socket or tube so, which has an
openings at the back for the pinion s to work through into the teeth of the
rack; the socket is passed in at the under side of the box, and made fast by the
nut, as shewn; the rack 8 is fixed in a tube s¹, which is open on its further
side to expose the teeth of the rack to the pinion. The tube sta passes through
the socket 810 in the box just described. The manner of giving extent to the
posterior is as follows:-Place in any of the holes t to a proper key, which,

page_text: instead of winding, press downwards, and the piece of metal t¹ upon the axis t³,
which has a catch &, shewn in detail, will rise and set at liberty the rack t',
on the under side of which is another rack to, see side view, Figure 3, which
is taken into by the teeth of the pinion to on the spring barrel t', and when
the desired extention has taken place, set at liberty the piece of metal to with
its catch t, and the spring t8 will press it again upon the rack t*, and stop the
further action of the spring barrel t', all of which will be clearly understood
by examining the detailed Drawings of this and part of the apparatus. The
neck, chest, waist, thigh, knee, calf, ankle, shoulder, expansion of arm,
immediately below shoulder, ditto, immediately above elbow, ditto, immediately
below elbow, and waist expansion movements are all similar, only differing in
size to suit the parts for which they are intended.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I would have it understood that I do not confine
myself to the precise details shewn and described, so long as the peculiar
character of my Invention be retained.
In witness whereof, I, the said Emilian de Dunin, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Tenth day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-one