An Improved Costume, chiefly designed for Lady Bicyclists.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 18th June. 1895-Accepted, 20th July, 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Costume, chiefly designed for Lady Bicyclists.
I, ABBIE B. GALLOWAY, of No. 9 Lincoln Street, East Somerville, in the
County of Middlesex, State of Massachusetts, United States of America,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
My invention relates to ladies' riding habits, especially adapted for the use of
females in riding bicycles, though it may be advantageously used in horseback
riding.
The object of my invention is to provide a combination garment, consisting of a
divided skirt and trousers, suitably connected together to form a convenient and
graceful riding habit, particularly adapted for the use of lady bicyclists both as a
riding and a walking skirt.
Another object of my invention is to provide a skirt and suitable attachments
by means of which the rider's legs are concealed and protected, and by which the
usual skirt guard attached to ladies' bicycles may be done away with without
danger of the skirt being caught in the spokes of the wheel, thereby reducing the
weight of the machine.
One of the special objects of my invention is to provide for drawing the fulness
of the skirt from the inside and back of the leg toward the outside and front
thereof and securely hold it in such position, so as to be away from the wheel and
out of danger of being blown in between the spokes, so as to provide perfect
freedom of movement of the legs and secure convenience and safety in the
arrangement of the skirt. This object is accomplished by means of a detachable
gathering-stay or facing-piece, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, one side
edge, if desired, and the lower edge having fastening devices, and the skirt also
having fastening devices at or near its lower edge, the said fastening devices along
the side edge of the facing-piece and on the side of the skirt being arranged to
diverge from below upward, so that when the facing-piece is connected by such
device, it will draw the skirt from the inside of the leg of the wearer toward the
outside thereof for preventing interference with the wheel of the bicycle. The
facing is preferably made with shirred or gathered upper edge and attached to a
knee-band for securing it to the leg. This detachable facing-piece is preferably
attached to the skirt by means of snap-buttons, by means of which it may be
quickly attached for use of the rider and can be quickly removed when the rider is
dismounted and wishes to walk. A gathering-stay or facing-piece is secured to
each side or part of the divided skirt, so as to provide one for each leg of the
wearer. The facing-pieces being attached to the inside of the skirt do not mar the
outside appearance thereof, but effectively gather the skirt away and prevent
interference with the wheel and obviate the necessity of a special dress guard.
I may also use a gathering-stay or facing-piece having only a line of snap-
buttons, (or sockets thereof) at its lower edge, (as shown in Fig. 9) and spaced
at short distances apart as compared with the distances between the snap-button
shanks,, on the transverse band, a, of the skirt, as shown in Fig. 8. The
snap-button shanks, ', on the skirt are about twice as far apart as are the snap-
button sockets, r, on the gathering-stay, C, so that when the two portions of

page_text: snap-buttons are engaged, one with another, the skirt will be gathered into folds, a*,
as shown in Figs. 8 and 10.
Another object of my invention is to provide for conveniently attaching the back
edge of the divided skirt to over-gaiters or leggings and also to the lower ends of
the trousers by means of quickly adjustable fastening devices, whereby a pair of
over-gaiters or leggings may be conveniently used in connection with the skirt for
covering and protecting the legs of the wearer, and providing perfect freedom of
movement of the legs and feet in pedaling the machine.
I will now particularly describe the details of my bicycle habit by reference to
the accompanying drawings, in which,
Figure represents a rear perspective view of the skirt partly opened at the
back and revealing part of the trousers;
Fig. 2 represents a vertical central section with the lower end of the skirt thrown
back, on the line y-y, Fig. 5;
Fig. 3 represents a vertical section through the lower part of the skirt showing
the back part of it gathered around the right leg and ankle;
Fig. 4 represents a vertical section through the skirt and trousers on lines z, z,
and looking to the right in Fig. 5;
Fig. 5 represents a horizontal section through the skirt and trousers on the
line xx, Figs. 1, 2 and 4;
Fig. 6 represents an inside view of the lower end and back part of the skirt and
trousers on one side of the garment;
Fig. 7 represents a view of the gathering-stay or detachable facing-piece ;
Fig. 8 represents an inside view, at the back, of a portion of a dress skirt ;
Fig. 9 represents an inner face view of the detachable gathering-device or
facing;
Fig. 10 represents a vertical section through the lower part of the skirt showing
the back part of it gathered at the outside of the leg and also secured to the back
of the legging and also at the end of one trouser leg;
Fig. 11 represents a side view of one of the over-gaiters or leggings.
My bicycle habit is made with a plain gored skirt, A, divided at the back and
joined at the top to a belt, a. and having the fulness formed into plaits, a¹ and a", at
the back, as shown in Figs. 1 and 5. The trousers, B, may be connected to the top
belt a, as shown, or to a separate belt, and the back seam of the trousers is connected
to the back seam of the skirt so as to form the seat seam, l, shown in Figs. 2
and 4. The back edge or seam of the skirt is also united with the legs, b, b', of
the trousers at the leg seams, m and m', as shown in Figs. 2, 4, and 5. The free
edge of the skirt ", extends down below the trousers legs on each side as shown
in Figs. 1, 2, and 3, so as to form a full length skirt, giving the effect of an
ordinary street skirt when the wearer is on foot. The trousers, B, are preferably
made without the usual side seam and with only the front seam, k, the seat sean, l,
and the two inner leg seams, mand m'. The plaits or folds, a' and a", forming the
fulness of the skirt at the back, are important features of my bicycle habit, for
the reason, that with them, it will serve both as a riding and walking skirt.
Sufficient fulness is thus given for conveniently gathering the free back edges m¹¹,
and the folds of the skirt around the ankle and leg, as indicated in Fig. 3, though
in this figure the skirt is partly drawn back for showing the straps or bands and the
trousers leg b. In practice, the skirt would still further envelop the leg. It should
be observed that Fig. 3 represents an inside view of one side of the skirt, and is
for the purpose of showing part of the trousers as well as the skirt, gathered into
folds and held by suitable straps or bands. The trousers may be made of the same
fabric as the skirt, or of some lighter weight material, such as silk or satin, while
the skirt may be made of some woollen cloth, such as broadcloth, serge or velvet.
The back breadth of the skirt is provided at the lower edge with a strengthening
band or strip, a, extending also
for attachment of the shanks, ri, up the side seams, n, as shown in Figs. 2 and 6,
the snap-buttons, r, which are secured to the
detachable facing C. The strengthening strip need not necessarily extend up a

page_text: side geam as n, but may extend up the side of the skirt in any suitable position for
attaching thereto the detachable facing, and such strip may be entirely omitted if
desired, and one part of the snap-buttons attached directly to the dress goods.
The detachable facing, C, is provided at its lower edge with a strengthening
band, c, to which are secured the snap-buttons, r, and the upper edge of said facing
is preferably gathered or shirred, as shown at c¹, and is attached to an elastic band, cl,
having snap-buttons secured to its ends, as shown in Figs. 2 and 6.
In practice,
the snap-buttous, r, are preferably secured to the strengthening band, c, and then
the outer surface is covered by the fabric forming the facing C, as indicated by
dotted lines in Fig. 6. The detachable facing, C, may be secured to the
lower edge of the skirt and the side seams, n, or the side of the skirt, in
any other desired manner, but I have found that the snap-buttons afford
a convenient means for quickly attaching and detaching said facing. The
facing, C, should be narrow at the top edge, as above stated, but need not be
gathered in order to be within the limits of my invention. It is of more particular
importance that the facing be nearly triangular in shape, as shown, and that the
line of fastening devices along one edge be inclined or diagonal to the fastening
devices on the lower edge thereof as shown, so that the fastening devices along
said edge of the facing and the fastening devices on the side of the skirt shall
diverge from below upward. By this arrangement the facing when attached at
the bottom and along one edge draws the fulness of the skirt back from the
inside around to the outside of the leg and ankle of the wearer, so as to be away
from the wheel, while at the same time it allows perfect freedom of movement
of the legs in working the pedals of the machine. The fulness of the skirt is so
well drawn away from the inside of the leg and ankle, and also away from the
wheel, and securely held at the outside of the leg by means of facing, C, that no
part of the skirt is liable to be blown by the wind between the spokes of the
wheel. Perfect safety and freedom in riding are thus secured. The elastic
band, e, is, in practice, fastened around the leg just below the knee, as shown in
Fig. 3.
In order to still further gather the skirt in folds around the leg, an elastic band, D,
or an ordinary ribbon or leather strap is inserted through a slit in the side seam, n,
and is provided at its end with a tab, d', having secured to it the shank of a snap-
button, while the other end of band D, is provided with a snap-button, d. The
band, D, thus arranged, may be passed around the leg and around the breadth of
skirt between the side seam, B, and the back edge, ml, so as to gather the skirt
into folds, as shown in Fig. 3. This arrangement is desirable in windy weather
and also when the user wishes to ride very fast, and prevents any part of the skirt
from catching in the spokes of the wheel. A ribbon or leather strap, e, is attached
by a loop, f, or other device, to the back edge, m", at the bottom of the skirt, as
shown in Figs. 3 and 6, for passing around the ankle. This ankle-band may be
also provided with snap-buttons or with a buckle for securing it in place and
thereby holding the lower edge of the skirt against the ankle.
When the habit is to be used by the wearer in riding a bicycle, the detachable
facing C is secured in position by means of the snap-buttons and then the upper
shirred edge, c', is adjusted to the leg by means of the band c. The ankle-band or
strap, e, is fastened around the ankle and the elastic band D, is secured around the
leg, just above or below the knee, thereby gathering the skirt into folds, as shown
in Fig. 3, or the band D, may be left unfastened, if desired.
When the rider
dismounts and wishes to walk in the skirt, all the bands are disengaged and the
detachable facings, C, may be quickly removed from the skirt and placed in a
pocket or hand-bag. The habit will then present a neat and graceful appearance
like any street costume. The extra fulness produced by the plaits in the back of
the skirt completely hides the division in the skirt and conceals the back seam
attached to the inner leg seam of the pants, so that the divided character of the
skirt is not apparent.
In connection with my divided skirt, I may use a pair of detachable or separate

page_text: trousers, the lower portion, b, of one leg being shown in Fig. 10, and such separate
trousers are preferably provided with a longitudinal line of shanks or sockets of
snap-buttons e, four or more of which may be used for attaching the back edge, m,
of the skirt by means of its snap-buttons, e¹¹.
I may also use the detachable gathering-stay or facing-piece, C, without snap-
buttons, at one side, but only at its lower edge on the band, c, as shown in Fig. 9.
The sockets, r, of snap-buttons are placed at short distances apart as compared
with the distance between the snap-button shanks, r, on the transverse band, all,
of the skirt, Fig. 8.
The snap-button sockets, r, are preferably placed upon the gathering-stay, C, at
about one-half the distance which separates the snap-button shanks, ³, on the
strengthening band a¹¹, of the skirt, so that when the gathering-stay is attached to
the skirt, the latter will be gathered into folds, a', as shown at the right hand side
of Fig. 8 and in Fig. 10. With the form of facing-piece shown in Fig. 9, the
strengthening band, a, is preferably arranged above the lower edge of the skirt
and about midway between such edge and the knee, as shown in Fig. 8.
In Fig. 8, the gathering-stay or facing-piece C, is shown attached by means of
its snap-buttons (sockets) r, to the transverse band, a'', on the skirt, indicating the
manner in which the skirt is gathered into folds or plaits, a*, for drawing the
fulness thereof away from the inside and back portions of the leg of the wearer
and toward the front.
As part of my invention, I may also provide leggings, E, having secured to
their back a longitudinal line of snap-button shanks, e, as shown in Fig. 11.
In practice, the back edge, m, of the divided skirt is attached by means of its
snap-buttons, e, to the shank, el, at the back of the leggings as shown in Fig. 10,
for holding the skirt in position and out of contact with the spokes of the wheel.
By means of the gathering-stay, C, the leggings, E, and the snap-buttons attached
as described, the divided skirt is neatly and securely held in place, covering the leg
of the wearer, permitting perfect freedom of the legs and feet in working the pedals
of the machine and effectively preventing the skirt from flying in between the
spokes of the wheel.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A bicycle riding-habit comprising a skirt, divided at the back, and having
plaits or gathers in the back, united to the top band and extending to the bottom
of the skirt, to form extra fulness, and trousers, the back edges of the skirt being
attached to the seat seam and to the inner or leg seams of the trousers, and means
for drawing the fulness of the skirt toward the outside of the leg of the wearer, so
as to avoid interference with the wheel, substantially as described.
2. In combination with a skirt divided in the back, a facing gathered or shirred
at the top and having a top band or strap, said facing being detachably secured at
its lower edge at or near the bottom of the skirt, and at one of its side edges to the
side thereof, whereby the skirt may be drawn away from the inside of the leg of
the wearer and toward the outside thereof, to avoid interference with the wheel,
substantially as described.
3. In a bicycle riding habit a skirt divided in the back, in combination with a
facing, narrow at the top, and wide at the bottom, said facing having fastening
devices along its lower edge and along one of its side edges, the skirt having corre-
sponding fastening devices at or near its bottom edge and at one side thereof, the
fastening devices at the side of the skirt and on the side edge of the facing being
arranged to diverge from below upward, whereby said facing may be readily
attached to the skirt for drawing the latter away from the inside of the leg of the
wearer and to the outside thereof, for preventing interference with the wheel of
the bicycle, and whereby also the skirt may be readily adapted for a walking
costume, substantially as described.

page_text: 4. In combination with a skirt divided in the back, a detachable facing gathered
at the top and having means for securing it to the leg of the wearer, and wide at
its lower edge, one side edge and the lower edge having fastening devices, the
skirt also having fastening devices at or near its lower edge and at the side, the
fastening devices at the edge of the facing and on the side of the skirt being
arranged to diverge from below upward, and a strap or band arranged to pass
around part of the divided skirt and leg of the wearer at the knee, whereby the
skirt will be drawn away from the inside of the leg of the wearer and may be held
at the outside thereof, substantially as described.
5. A skirt divided at the back and having a transverse line of fastening
devices, placed at comparatively wide distances apart, in combination with a
detachable gathering-stay or facing-piece having complementary fastening
devices, spaced at less distances apart than said fastening devices on the skirt,
and means, as a band or strap, for securing said gathering-stay or facing-piece
to the leg of the wearer for gathering the skirt into folds and holding such
folds forward to avoid interference with the wheel, substantially as described.
6. A skirt divided at the back and having at its back free edge a longitudinal
line of fastening devices, in combination with an over-gaiter or legging having
a longitudinal line of complementary fastening devices at or near the back
thereof and adapted to be connected with the fastening devices on said back
edge of the skirt, substantially as described.
7. A skirt divided at the back and having at its back free edge a longitudinal
line of fastening devices in combination with trousers having at their lower
ends fastening devices, and an over-gaiter or legging having at or near its back
a longitudinal line of fastening devices, said trousers and leggings being adapted
to be attached to the skirt by said fastening devices, substantially as described.
Dated this 18th day of June 1895.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.