CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SWEAT BANDS FOR HATS AND CAPS AND IN MACHINERY FOR MAKING THE SAMEUM
Year: 1880

page_text: In the Matter of Letters Patent granted to Henri Adrien Bonneville, of
the British and Foreign Patent Offices, 18, Rue de la Chaussée d' Paris,
France, and 90, Cannon Street, in the City of London, Patent Agent,
for an Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SWEAT BANDS FOR HATS
AND CAPS AND IN MACHINERY FOR MAKING THE SAME." A communication
from Thomas William Bracher, of New York City, County and State of
New York, United States of America. Dated December 11th 1880
N° 5184.
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION proposed to be
entered by Thomas William Bracher.
:
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent dated 11th December, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred
and eighty, in the forty fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her Heirs
and successors, give and grant to Henri Adrien Bonneville his executors, admini-
strators, and assigns, the sole privilege of making using exercising and vending
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands and
Isle of Man the said Invention of " IMPROVEMENTS IN SWEAT BANDS FOR HATS
AND CAPS AND.IN MACHINERY FOR MAKING THE SAME," for and during the term of
fourteen years thence next ensuing :
"
And whereas the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, in pursuance of a proviso
contained in the said Letters Patent, did within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent cause a Specification of the
said Invention to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office:
And whereas by assignment bearing date the ninth day of April 1881 The
said Henri Adrien Bonneville assigned unto the said Thomas William Bracher
all right title and interest in and to the said Letters Patent, and all powers
privileges advantages thereto appertaining and belonging.
And whereas since the date of the said assignment I the said Thomas William
Bracher have ascertained that by reason of the ambiguity in certain words, the

page_text: statement of the nature of the invention is not clearly expressed, and that certain
portions of the invention described and claimed in the said Specification were not
new as to the public knowledge and use thereof at the date of said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE that I the said Thomas William Bracher by and with the
leave of Her Majesty's Solicitor General, do alter and amend the said Specification
as follows, that is to say, referring to the Copy of the Specification printed by the
Queen's Printers and published by the Commissioners of Patents.
:
:
On page 4 of said Specification line 10, I strike out the words "The first part
of" also the word "sweats," and substitute for the latter the words "sweat leather or
band" line 13 I strike out the word "sweats" and substitute therefor the words
"sweat leather or band": line 15 after the word "sweat" I insert the words
"leather or band": line 17 after the word "sweat" I insert the words "leather or
band" line 19 I strike out the words "One feature of this" and substitute the words
"The first" line 20 I insert the words "leather or band "after the word "sweat";
line 21 I insert the words "leather or band" after the word "sweat". I strike
out the whole of the matter comprised between line 22 and line 44 both inclusive.
Line 45 I strike out the word "sixth" and substitute therefor the word "second,"
and in same line I also strike out the word "especially"; line 46 I strike out the
words "the sweats bereindescribed as the first part of my invention" and substitute
therefor the words sweat leathers or bands for hats and caps": line 49 I insert
after the word "sweat the words "leather or band": line 50 I insert after the
word "sweat" the words "leather or band."
"the above described
A
"
1
On page 5 line 3 after the word "together" I insert the word "and": line 4
after the word "sweat" I insert the words "leather or band," and strike out from
word "and" on same line to word "sewing" on line 5; line 12 I strike out the
words "sweat or " and insert after the word "leather" the words "or band";
line 15 after the word "sweat" I insert the words "leather or band"; line 16 after
the word "sweat" I insert the words "leather or band"; line 18 after the word
"sweat" I insert the words "leather or band"; line 20 after the word "sweat" I
insert the words "leather or band": line 27 after the word "sweat" I insert the
words "leather or band"; line 29 after the word "sweat" I insert the words
"leather or band": line 32 after the word "sweat" I insert the words "leather or
band" line 33 after the word "sweat" I insert the words "leather or band":
line 36 after the word "sweat" I insert the words "leather or band"; line 39 after
the word "sweat" I insert the words "leather or band"; and I strike out the
whole matter comprised between lines 44 and 57 both inclusive.
On page 6 I strike out lines 1 to 5 both inclusive; line 7 after the word "sweat"
I insert the words "leather or band"; line 10 after the word "sweat" I insert the
words "leather or band" and I also strike out the whole matter comprised between
lines 11 and 56 both inclusive.
On page 7 I strike out completely the first 27 lines. In line 28 I strike out the
word "sixth" and substitute therefor the word "second," and in the same line I
strike out the figure "22" and substitute therefor the figure "20," and I also
strike out from word "Fig." line 31 to word "detached" line 32 both inclusive:
line 35 after the word "swent" I insert the words "leather or band": line 41 I
strike out the words "hat sweats" and substitute therefor the words "sweat bands
or leathers for hats and caps": line 44 I insert the words "leather or band" after
the word "sweat"; line 46 I insert the words "leather or band" after the word
"sweat"; line 47 I insert the words. " leather or band" after the word "sweat."
On page 8 line 13 I insert the words "leather or band" after the word "sweat";
line 17 I insert the words "leather or band" after the word "sweat"; line 20 I
insert the words "leather or band" after the word "sweat"; line 22 I insert the
words "leather or band" after the word "sweat" line 26 I insert the words
"leather or band" after the word "sweat" and cross out the word "this" substi-
tuting therefor the word "thus": line 27 I insert the words "leather or band "
after the word "sweat". I strike out the matter contained between lines 30 and

page_text: 22
52 both inclusive. I strike out from the word "claim" line 54 to the word "new"
line 55 both inclusive, and insert after the word "I" line 54 the following: "wish
"it to be understood that I make no claim for any portion of the machinery
" herein described taken separately or used for a different purpose than that set
"forth in the specification, nor for any sewing machine as a whole for use in the
"manufacture of sweat bands for hats and caps in which the upper and lower feed
"surfaces are not made movable and in a plane obliquely to the horizontal plane
"of the two needles substantially as described and shewn nor for anything in
"relation to the sweat leather or band itself except." Line 56 I insert the words
"leather or band" after the word "sweat"; line 57 I insert the words " leather
or band" after the word "sweat".
On page 9 line 2 I insert the words "leather or band" after the word "sweat":
line 4 I insert the words "leather or band" after the word "sweat": I strike out
the 2nd and 3rd claiming clauses comprising lines 6 to 15 inclusive; line 16 I strike
out the figure "4" and substitute therefor the figure "2" and insert the words
"leather or band" after the word "sweat": I also strike, out all the remaining
claiming clauses comprising lines 19 to 57 both inclusive page 9, and lines 1 to 11
both inclusive page 10.
Referring to the drawings annexed to the said Specification I strike out
figures 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 21 and 22. And in order that the effect of the
said disclaimer may be clearly understood I annex hereunto a copy of the said
specification as it will appear when so amended the preamble and testing clause
being omitted.
$5
This Invention relates to that class of sweat leather or band embodying a lining
for attaching the same to a hat or cap, such lining generally forming also a cover
or envelope for a reed, wire, or cord, and as such being commonly terined a reed
cover". An objection to this class of sweat leather or band is that the article has
a plain edge, that is to say, it lacks the finish produced by the stitches which
appear on the outer edge of the sweat leather or band when it is attached to a hat
by "hand whipping" or overhand stitching. To obtain that appearance the lining
or reed cover has been attached to the sweat leather or band by hand whipping,
but this operation obviously involves considerable labour, and renders the article
comparatively expensive.
The first part of the Invention consists in a peculiar arrangement of machine
stitches for attaching the lining or reed cover to the sweat leather or band whereby
a whipped appearance is given to the edge of the sweat leather or band when it is
put into a hat.
The second part of the Invention relates to sewing machines for use in manu-
facturing sweat leathers or bands for hats and caps. It has been found that the
semblance of hand-whipping referred to is best obtained by arranging the
connecting parts or members of the double row of stitches used obliquely to
the edge of the sweat leather or band; but an ordinary two-needle sewing machine
is not practically adapted to that purpose, because it is essential to feed the sweat
leather or band in a plane obliquely to the horizontal plane of the needles, and one
of the objects of this part of the invention is to construct a sewing machine for
that purpose; another important object is to give a positive motion both to the
upper and lower layers of material to be stitched together; and another object is
to prevent injury to the sweat leather or band by the feed mechanism. It consists
in a novel combination of parts hereinafter fully described.
The first part of the Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawings by
Figures 1 to 8 inclusive.
Fig. 1 represents a face view; Fig. 2 is a cross section; Fig. 3 is a top edge
view; Fig. 4 is a rear view; and Figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8 show modifications. Similar
letters indicate corresponding parts.
In these Figures the letter A designates the sweat leather or band and B the
lining or reed cover, the latter being bent around the reed or its substitute in the
usual manner. That portion of the reed cover B enclosing the reed or its substitute

page_text: projects beyond the lower or outer edge of the sweat leather or band A, and the
whole is attached to the sweat leather or band by a double row of stitches c, c¹,
connected together, one penetrating the lining or reed cover alone, and the other
penetrating both the sweat leather or band and the lining or reed cover, inward
or upward from such edge. The connecting parts or members of the double row
of stitches c c¹, namely, those portions whereby the two are joined together, are on
the face or front side of the sweat leather or band A as at c³, and said connecting
members are substantially parallel to each other, as indicated in Figures 1. and 5.
The double row of stitches c c¹ is produced on a machine having two needles and
a shuttle common to both needles, the connecting parts or members c³ of the
stitches being the thread loops of one of the needles and the same being drawn'
towards and connected with the thread loops of the other needle by the shuttle
thread. When the stitches c c¹, are produced in this manner the sweat leather or
band is laid upside down, namely, with its face resting on the cloth-plate of the
machine, but the stitches can also be produced on a machine having a single needle
by moving the sweat leather or band or needle, or both, in an appropriate manner,
face upward, or on a machine having horizontally movable needles. The double
row of stitches c c' is thus produced in a very rapid manner, and it is a medium
for securely attaching the lining or reed cover B to the sweat leather or band A,
while when the sweat leather or band is put into a hat, the connecting members, c³,
of the stitches are brought to a position in which they have the appearance of
superior and careful hand-whipping, and hence a very handsome effect is thereby
produced. The outer row of stitches c, moreover, being immediately next to
the edge of the sweat leather or band A, serves to hide such edge, which is a
desideratum.
The lining or reed cover B may be so adjusted that both rows of stitches, c,
are brought within or inside of the reed or its substitute on the sweat leather or
band as indicated in Figures 1, 2, and 4, or so that the stitches are brought on
opposite sides of the reed, as indicated in Figures 5, 6, and 7. The effect of the
connecting members c² of the double row of stitches is increased by stretching or
flanging the edge of the sweat fabric (see Fig. 10 as to the flange).
The connecting parts or members c² of the double row of stitches may be arranged
at right angles to the edge of the sweat leather or band A, as shown in Figs. 1 and
7
A
5, or they may be inclined to such edge, as shown in Fig. 8. The double row of
stitches c, c¹, moreover, may be used for attaching a hat lining B¹ to the upper edge
of the sweat leather or band A, as shown.
The second part of the Invention is illustrated in Figs. 17 to 20 inclusive, Fig. 17
representing a horizontal section, Fig. 18 an inverted plan view, Fig. 19 a cross
section on the line x, x, Fig. 17, Fig. 20, a side view of the top feed mechanism.
Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.
The letter A designates the ordinary cloth-plate, having attached thereto a
subsidiary plate A¹ at the place where the sweat leather or band is introduced to
the machine, and B designates the machine arm carrying the bars for the needles
c, c, and the presser foot d, the latter being perforated for the passage of the needles;
as shown in Fig. 1; E designates a shuttle co-operating with the needles c, c, to
form the stitch forming mechanism; and F, G, two feed surfaces, one below and the
other above the surface of the cloth plate A.
When the machine is intended for sewing the sweat leathers or bands for hats
and caps before mentioned these feed surfaces F, G, are both arranged to move in a
plane which is oblique to the horizontal plane of the needles c', c, as indicated in
Figs. 17 and 18, and hence if a sweat leather or band is presented thereto it is fed
to the needles in a manner to bring one of the threads, which constitutes the con-
necting parts or members of the two rows of stitches obliquely to the end of the
sweat leather or band as indicated.
The feed surfaces F, G, move in unison with each other, clamping the sweat
leather or band between them, and the motion thereof is produced by means of

page_text: levers H, I, both having a horizontally oscillating and reciprocating motion, and
both constructed with a wedge j or k, which rides upon or against a fixed pusher &
or m in the reciprocating motions of the levers, whereby the latter are displaced in
a vertical direction, but the construction and operation of these parts is too well
known to need further description. The lever I acts on the top feed surface G
through a feed bar G', which carries such top surface and swings on a pivot 1° (see
Fig. 19), whilst it is subjected to the action of a spring l, having a tendency to
depress the feed surface. The spring is arranged to act on the feed bar G¹³ through
a swivel-pin to avoid friction.
In ordinary sewing machines having only a lower movable feed surface the
upper layer of material gets its motion only by frictional contact with the other or
lower layer of material, which is in direct contact with and receives the impulse
from the feed surface, and for this reason the lower layer of material has a tendency
to move faster than the upper layer, another reason therefor being the fact that the
upper layer is retarded by the presser-foot. By using the two feed surfaces F, G,
both layers of material receive a positive motion, and hence the disadvantage named
is thereby overcome.
The presser foot d has a vertically reciprocating motion, and it clamps the work
in the retrograde movement of the feed surfaces, but rises in the forward motions
thereof so as to allow the free passage of the material.
The parts for operating the upper feed surface G are in this example placed on
the cloth-plate A, but in some cases, as when it is desired to sew the sweat leather
or band directly to the hat brim, or to use the entire cloth plate for manipulating
the work, such parts may be applied to the machine arm.
The lower feed surface F is plain or smooth, whilst the upper feed surface G is
roughened in the usual manner, as shown in Fig. 19, and hence if a sweat leather
or band is introduced to the machine in a reversed state the face thereof is
presented to the lower or smooth feed surface, and is thus left intact or uninjured,
whilst the back of the sweat leather or band is caught by the upper roughened
surface. If desired, however, both surfaces F, G, may be left smooth or both may
be roughened.
Suitable guides are used for introducing the sweat leather or band, as well as the
parts to be attached thereto, and N designates the sweat guide, the remaining
guides being in this example omitted. From this guide N projects a flat spring.
arm O, the free end of which bears on the throat-plate adjacent to the needles c, c,
so that the sweat leather or band is clamped thereby adjacent to the sewing point.
The object of thus clamping the sweat leather or band is to insure its being
presented to the stitch forming mechanism in a perfectly flat state, and to assist in
guiding the material uniformly thereto. If desired the spring arm O may be made
separate from the guide N.
Having thus explained the nature of the Invention, and the manner of carrying
it into effect, I wish it to be understood that I make no claim for any portion of
the machinery hereindescribed taken separately or used for a different purpose than
that set forth in the Specification nor for any sewing machine as a whole for use in
the manufacture of sweat bands for hats and caps in which the upper and lower
feed surface are not made movable and in a plane obliquely to the horizontal plane
of the two needles substantially as described and shewn nor for anything in relation
to the sweat leather or band itself except-
-
1. The combination in a sweat leather or band for hats or caps of a lining or reed
cover projecting beyond one edge of the sweat leather or band, and attached
thereto by a double row of machine stitches connected together, one penetrating
the lining or reed cover alone at or near the edge of the sweat leather or band, and
the other penetrating both the sweat leather or band and the lining or reed cover
inward or upward from such edge, the connecting parts or members of the stitches
being on the face of the sweat leather or band, and being substantially parallel to
each other, as and for the purpose described.

page_text: -
2. As a new article of manufacture a sweat leather or band for hats or caps,
having a reed cover attached thereto by machine stitches in imitation of
hand-whipping, substantially as shown and described.
In witness whereof I the said Thomas William Bracher have hereunto set my
hand and seal this twentieth day of June in the Year of our Lord one thousand
eight hundred and eighty three,
I, William Lane Booker, Esq., Her Britannic Majesty's Consul General, for the
States of New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Delaware, Do
Hereby Certify, That on the day of the date hereof personally appeared before me
Thomas William Bracher in the annexed Disclaimer mentioned to me identified as
such and duly signed, sealed, and executed the said Disclaimer for the purpose
therein expressed in my presence and in the presence of the subscribing Witness
thereto
In Witness Whereof, I do hereunto set my hand and seal of Office, at the City of
New York, this twentieth day of June in the year of our Lord one thousand eight
hundred and eighty-three
Notice of the application for leave to file this Disclaimer and Memorandum of 2.
Alteration having been advertized as required by me
I hereby grant my Fiat giving leave to the above named Thomas William
Bracher to file in the Office of the Commissioners of Patents with the Specifi-
cation to which the same relates the above written Disclaimer and Memorandum
of Alteration.
3
Dated this 10th day of Canbrohan 1000

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henri Adrien Bonneville, of the British and Foreign
Patent Offices, 18, Rue de la Chaussée d' Paris, France, and 90, Cannon
Street, in the City of London, Patent Agent, for an Invention of " CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN SWEAT BANDS FOR HATS & CAPS, AND IN MACHINERY
FOR MAKING THE SAME." A communication from Thomas William Bracher,
of New York City, County and State of New York, United States of
America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION filed by the said Henri Adrien Bonneville
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 11th December 1880.
HENRI ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent Offices, 18,
Rue de la Chaussée d' Paris, France, and. 90, Cannon Street, in the City of
London, Patent Agent. "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SWEAT BANDS FOR HATS
& CAPS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR MAKING THE SAME." A communication from
Thomas William Bracher, of New York City, County and State of New York,
United States of America.
The first part of this Invention relates to that class of sweats embodying a lining
for attaching the same to a hat or cap, such lining generally forming also a cover
or envelope for a reed, wire, or cord, and as such being commonly termed a
" reed cover."
An objection to this class of sweats is that the article has a plain edge, that is
to say,
it lacks the "finish" produced by the stitches which appear on the outer
edge of the sweat when it is attached to a hat by "hand whipping" or overhand
stitching. To obtain that appearance the lining or reed cover has been attached to
the sweat by hand-whipping, but this operation obviously involves considerable
labour, and renders the article comparatively expensive.
One feature of this part of the Invention consists in a peculiar arrangement of
machine stitches for attaching the lining or reed cover to the sweat whereby a
whipped appearance is given to the edge of the sweat when it is put into a hat ;

page_text: also in a peculiar reed cover; and, further, in a certain novel method of stitching
sweats for ornamental purposes, all of which will hereafter be fully described.
The second part of the Invention consists in a sweat having its edge cut down
to about one half the original thickness, and lapped or folded so that the thickness
of the folded portion is substantially equal to that of the body of the article; also
in the combination with a stretched edge sweat and with a reed or spring applied
to such edge of a fastening or stay adapted to hold the reed or spring against
longitudinal displacement, thereby preventing the contraction of the stretched
edge.
The third part of the Invention consists in the combination with a sweat and a
lining or reed cover attached thereto of a reed or spring surrounded with an
envelope of paper or other like material; also in the combination therewith of a
reed or spring having an oblong cross section; further in the combination with
a sweat of a wire or spring applied to its upper edge.
The fourth part of the Invention consists in the combination of a lining or reed
cover with a sweat having a beveled edge and having the lining or reed cover
attached thereto upon such edge, so that the least part of the latter is exposed to
view.
The fifth part of the Invention consists in the method of producing sweats for
hats or caps by stitching the sweats successively to a continuous lining or reed
cover, enclosing a continuous reed or spring, and subsequently separating the
sweats from each other by cutting the lining or reed cover at the appropriate
points in order to effect an economy of time and labour.
The sixth part of the Invention relates to sewing machines for use, especially in
manufacturing the sweats herein described as the first part of the Invention. It
has been found that the semblance of hand whipping referred to is best obtained
by arranging the connecting part or members of the double row of stitches used
obliquely to the edge of the sweat; but an ordinary two-needle sewing machine is
not practically adapted to that purpose, because it is essential to feed the sweat in
a plane obliquely to the horizontal plane of the needles, and one of the objects of
this part of the Invention is to construct a sewing-machine for that purpose;
another important object is to give a positive motion both to the upper and lower
layers of material to be stitched together; another object is to prevent injury to
the sweat by the feed mechanism, and another to indicate any imperfection in the
thread used for sewing.
It consists in a novel combination of parts hereafter to be fully described.
This improved machine is constructed as follows:-
The ordinary cloth-plate has attached thereto a subsidiary plate at the place
where the sweat is introduced to the machine. The machine arm carries, as
usually, the bars for the needles, and the presser foot perforated for the passage of
the needles. The shuttle cöoperates with the needles to form the stitch forming
mechanism, and two feed surfaces, one below and the other above the cloth-plate,
both arranged to move in a plane which is oblique to the horizontal plane of the
needles, and hence if a sweat is presented thereto it is fed to the needles in a
manner to bring one of the threads which constitutes the connecting parts or
members of the two rows of stitches obliquely to the edge of the sweat.
The feed surfaces move in unison with each other, clamping the sweat between
them, and the motion thereof is produced by means of two levers, both having a
horizontally oscillating and reciprocating motion, and both constructed with a
wedge which rides upon or against a fixed pusher in the reciprocating motions of
the levers, whereby the latter are displaced in a vertical direction. One of the
levers acts on the top feed surface through a feed bar, which carries such top-
surface and swings on a piyot, whilst it is subjected to the action of a spring
having a tendency to depress the feed surface, and is arranged to act on the feed
bar through a swivel-pin to avoid friction. By using the two feed surfaces both
layers of material receive a positive motion, and if a sweat is introduced to the

page_text: machine in a reversed state, the face thereof is presented to the lower feed surface
which is smooth, and is thus left intact or uninjured.
To indicate any imperfection in the thread used for sewing, an audible or
visible signal apparatus is located between the thread receiving eye and the tension
device, the same consisting of a hammer lever, which is hung on a pivot fixed to
the machine arm, and is provided with a slot open at one end for the reception
of the thread in connection with a gong, the slot being just wide enough to permit
the thread to pass through it, and in its normal position the lever is inclined
towards the thread receiving eye, this position thereof being determined by a stop,
but when in the passage of the thread a knot or the like meets the lever, the latter
is thereby displaced and thrown upon the gong so as to sound the same.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Henri Adrien Bonneville in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
9th April 1881.
HENRI ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent Offices, 18, Rue
de la Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, France, and 90, Cannon Street, in the City of
London, Patent Agent. "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SWEAT-BANDS FOR HATS
AND CAPS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR MAKING THE SAME." A communication by
Thomas William Bracher, of New York City, County and State of New York,
United States of America.
The first part of this Invention relates to that class of sweats embodying a lining
for attaching the same to a hat or cap, such lining generally forming also a cover
or envelope for a reed, wire, or cord, and as such being commonly termed a "reed
cover." An objection to this class of sweats is that the article has a plain edge,
that is to say, it lacks the finish produced by the stitches which appear on the
outer edge of the sweat when it is attached to a hat by "hand whipping" or
overhand stitching. To obtain that appearance the lining or reed cover has been
attached to the sweat by hand whipping, but this operation obviously involves
considerable labor, and renders the article comparatively expensive.
One feature of this part of the Invention consists in a peculiar arrangement of
machine stitches for attaching the lining or reed cover to the sweat, whereby a
whipped appearance is given to the edge of the sweat when it is put into a hat;
also in a peculiar reed cover; and, further, in a certain novel method of stitching
sweats for ornamental purposes, all of which is hereinafter fully described.
The second part of the Invention consists in a sweat having its edge cut down
to about one half the original thickness, and lapped or folded so that the thickness
of the folded portion is substantially equal to that of the body of the article; also
in the combination with a stretched edge sweat and with a reed or spring applied
to such edge, of a fastening or stay adapted to hold the reed or spring against
longitudinal displacement, thereby preventing the contraction of the stretched
edge.
The third part of the Invention consists in the combination with a sweat and a
lining or reed cover attached thereto of a reed or spring surrounded with an
envelope of paper or other like material; also in the combination therewith of a
reed or spring, having an oblong cross section; further in the combination with a
sweat of a wire or spring applied to its upper edge.
The fourth part of the Invention consists in the combination of a lining or reed
cover with a sweat having a beveled edge, and having the lining or reed cover
attached thereto upon such edge, so that the least part of the latter is exposed to
view.
The fifth part of the Invention consists in the method of producing sweats for
hats or caps, by stitching the sweats successively to a continuous lining or reed
cover, enclosing a continuous reed or spring, and subsequently separating the sweats
from each other by cutting the lining or reed cover at the appropriate points, in
order to effect an economy of time and labor.
The sixth part of the Invention relates to sewing machines for use especially in
manufacturing the sweats herein described as the first part of the Invention. It
has been found that the semblance of hand-whipping referred to is best obtained by
arranging the connecting part or members of the double row of stitches used
obliquely to the edge of the sweat; but an ordinary two-needle sewing machine is
not practically adapted to that purpose, because it is essential to feed the sweat in
a plane obliquely to the horizontal plane of the needles, and one of the objects of

page_text: this part of the invention is to construct a sewing machine for that purpose;
another important object is to give a positive motion both to the upper and lower
layers of material to be stitched together; another object is to prevent injury to
the sweat by the feed mechanism, and another to indicate any imperfection in the
thread used for sewing. It consists in a novel combination of parts hereinafter
fully described.
The first part of the Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawings by
Figures 1 to 8 inclusive.
Fig. 1 represents a face view; Fig. 2 is a cross section; Fig. 3 is a top edge
view; Fig. 4 is a rear view; and Figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8 show modifications. Similar
letters indicate corresponding parts.
In these Figures the letter A designates the sweat or sweat leather, and B the
lining or reed cover, the latter being bent around the reed or its substitute in the
usual manner. That portion of the reed cover B enclosing the reed or its substi-
tute projects beyond the lower or outer edge of the sweat A, and the whole is
attached to the sweat by a double row of stitches c, c¹, connected together, one
penetrating the lining or reed cover alone, and the other penetrating both the
sweat and the lining or reed cover inward or upward from such edge.
The con-
necting parts or members of the double row of stitches c, c¹, namely, those portions
whereby the two are joined together, are on the face or front side of the sweat A,
as at c², and said connecting members are substantially parallel to each other, as
indicated in Figures 1 and 5. The double row of stitches c, c' is produced on a
machine having two needles and a shuttle common to both needles, the connecting
parts or members c² of the stitches being the thread loops of one of the needles and
the same being drawn towards and connected with the thread loops of the other
needle by the shuttle thread. When the stitches cc', are produced in this manner
the sweat is laid upside down, namely, with its face resting on the cloth-plate of
the machine, but the stitches can also be produced on a machine having a single
needle by moving the sweat or needle, or both, in an appropriate manner, face
upward, or on a machine having borizontally moveable needles. The double
row of stitches c, c¹ is thus produced in a very rapid manner, and it is a medium
for securely attaching the lining or reed cover B to the sweat A, while when the
sweat is put into a hat, the connecting members, c², of the stitches are brought to a
position in which they have the appearance of superior and careful hand-whipping,
and hence a very handsome effect is thereby produced. The outer row of stitches
c, moreover, being immediately next to the edge of the sweat A, serves to hide
such edge, which is a desideratum.
The lining or reed cover B may be so adjusted that both rows of stitches, c, c',
are brought within or inside of the reed or its substitute on the sweat, as
indicated in Figures 1, 2, and 4, or so that the stitches are brought on opposite
sides of the reed, as indicated in Figures 5, 6, & 7. The effect of the connecting
members c² of the double row of stitches is increased by stretching or flanging
the edge of the sweat fabric (see Fig. 10 as to the flange).
The lining or reed cover B may be composed either wholly or partly of
lace or other fabric of a similar texture, so that the reed or its substitute
enclosed therein is rendered visible. By this means a variegated appearance is
given to the exposed portion of the lining or reed cover B, and the latter is
rendered highly ornamental as well as useful.
In some cases the reed or its substitute is provided with a facing of silk or
other material, and in that case the facing becomes the portion of the reed which is
visible through the open work cover; near the upper or inner edge of the sweat A
is a row of stitches e, which is applied thereto chiefly for the purpose of ornamenta-
tion. This row of stitches e is produced on a machine having two needles and a
shuttle common to both needles by the following method, namely, by guiding the
fabric in such a manner that one needle penetrates the same near to the desired
edge, while the other needle works exterior of such edge without penetrating the
fabric. In this manner the shuttle is made to catch the thread loops of both

page_text: needles, but without drawing the same tight, as when both neeates pass through
a fabric, the thread loop of the inner needle being drawn towards the thread loop
of the outer needle, and being left to project from the fabric, as indicated in Fig. 3.
By this method a row of loose stitches is obtained in imitation of braid or
crochet work which materially improves the appearance of the sweat.
The connecting parts or members c² of the double row of stitches may be
arranged at right angles to the edge of the sweat A, as shown in Figs. 1 and 5,
The double row
or they may be inclined to such edge, as shown in Fig. 8.
of stitches c, c', moreover, may be used for attaching a hat lining B¹ to the
upper edge of the sweat A, as shown.
The second part of the Invention is illustrated in Figures 9 to 12 inclusive of
the accompanying Drawings, in which Fig. 9 represents a perspective view.
Fig. 10 is a cross section taken on the line x, x, Fig. 9, on a larger scale
than in such Figure. Fig. 11 is an inside view showing the reduced edges
partly folded. Fig. 12 is a cross section of a piece of leather or the like used
in carrying out the Invention. Similar letters indicate correspondings parts.
One way of carrying out this part of the Invention is to take the piece A,
(Fig. 3), of leather or other suitable material and produce therein creases of furrows
a at suitable distances apart from each other by cutting down the material to
about one half its original thickness; then divide the piece A into strips A°, each
suitable for a sweat band by cutting the same in the creases or furrows a, and then
lap or fold the reduced edges b, b, thus given to each strip, either upon themselves,
as shown in Fig. 10 and 11, or on the body of the sweat band. It follows that
the folded part of the band A° obtains a thickness about equal to the original
thickness of the material.
The edges f, f, of the creases or furrows a are straight, and when the reduced
edges b, b, are folded over the body of the article in lieu of on themselves, one of
the edges ff, forms a guide, whereby a straight edge can be given to the article
without difficulty.
In ordinary sweats the folded part is twice as thick as the remaining portion of
the article, and hence a clumsy appearance is produced, especially when the article
is put into a hat or cap. In the sweat obtained by this Invention the folded part
presents a finished appearance and lies snugly against the head, opening without
producing a clumsy appearance, and if one edge of the sweat band is stretched so
as to form a flange or brim extending over the edge of the head opening, the
advantage of the reduced part is still more apparent.
If the edge of the sweat is stretched so as to form a flange or brim c, this flange
is liable to lose its shape when the material becomes damp and contracts in drying,
or when the article is handled injudiciously. A reed or spring d is used to counteract
this tendency, the same being inserted into or fastened to the folded edge; but if
in handling the sweat band before the same is put to use the reed or spring is
permitted to slide in or on the folded edge, its effect in keeping such edge stretched
is lost. This difficulty is overcome by applying to the reed or spring d, a fastening
or stay e, adapted to prevent its longitudinal displacement. This fastening may be
a metallic device or it may be formed by turning or bending down the end of the
reed or spring, and, if desired, stitching the same in this position, as at e*, and
when the sweat band has been cut to the proper length ready to be inserted in a
hat or cap the fastening may be removed if of suitable character.
The third part of the Invention is illustrated in Figures 13 and 14 of the
accompanying Drawings, in which the letter A designates the sweat, B the lining
or reed cover enclosing the reed or spring C for the lower edge of the sweat, and
D the reed or spring for the upper edge of the sweat.
The lining B is stitched to the sweat at its lower edge, whilst the whole is
stretched at that point. It has been found that in the operation of stretching the
edge of the sweat the lining B is liable to bind or catch on the reed or spring C by
friction, and is thus improperly and irregularly stretched. To overcome this
disadvantage, use is made of a reed or spring surrounded with an envelope e, of

page_text: paper or other similar material, this envelope being adapted to slip or shift its
position on the reed or spring, so that the lining which is next to and in frictional
contact with the envelope is free to move.
The reed or spring C has an oblong cross section, and it is so arranged that it
lies flat or parallel to the body of the sweat, as shown in Fig. 13. The reed or
spring thus allows the sweat to bend flat wise, and take its position in a hat or
cap, whilst it presents the same from bending edgeways, thereby preserving the
symmetry of the band.
The reed or spring at the upper edge of the sweat A is enclosed in a binding
strip f, which is attached to such edge in any appropriate manner, and the function
of this reed or spring is to stiffen the upper edge of the sweat, which, being
favourable to its retention in a hat or cap, the least amount of stitching is required
to fasten the sweat.
The fourth part of the Invention is illustrated in Fig. 15 of the accompanying
Drawings, in which the letter A designates the sweat, B the lining or reed cover,
and C the reed or spring. The lower edge of the sweat A, where the lining or reed
cover B is attached thereto, is bevelled in an outer direction, and it will be readily
seen that the greater portion of such edge is thus concealed from view, which
materially improves the appearance of the article.
The fifth part of the Invention is illustrated in Fig. 16 of the accompanying
Drawings. In carrying out this part of the Invention a continuous reed cover B is
used, and a continuous reed or spring C, and guiding the same into a sewing
machine introduces the sweats A thereto in proper order or succession, so that the
machine need not be stopped as each sweat is presented to be sewed. The
sweats A are then separated from each by cutting the lining or reed cover B
between them, and it will be readily understood that by this method both time and
labour is saved.
The sixth part of the Invention is illustrated in Figs. 17 to 22 inclusive, Fig. 17
representing a horizontal section, Fig. 18 an inverted plan view, Fig. 19 a
cross section on the line x, x, Fig. 17, Fig. 20, a side view of the top feed
mechanism, Fig. 21 showing a signal apparatus for indicating imperfections in
the thread, Fig. 22 showing the signal lever detached. Similar letters indicate
corresponding parts.
The letter A designates the ordinary cloth-plate, having attached thereto a
subsidiary plate A' at the place where the sweat is introduced to the machine,
and B designates the machine arm carrying the bars for the needles c, c, and the
presser foot d, the latter being perforated for the passage of the needles, as shown
in Fig. 1; E designates a shuttle cooperating with the needles c, c, to form the
stitch forming mechanism; and F, G, two feed surfaces, one below and the other
above the surface of the cloth plate A.
When the machine is intended for sewing the hat sweats before mentioned these
feed surfaces F, G, are both arranged to move in a plane which is oblique to the
horizontal plane of the needles c¹, c, as indicated in Figs. 17 & 18, and hence if a
sweat is presented thereto it is fed to the needles in a manner to bring one of
the threads, which constitutes the connecting parts or members of the two rows of
stitches obliquely to the end of the sweat, as indicated.
The feed surfaces F, G, move in unison with each other, clamping the sweat
between them, and the motion thereof is produced by means of levers H, I, both
having a horizontally oscillating and reciprocating motion, and both constructed
with a wedge j or k, which rides upon or against a fixed pusher / or m in the
reciprocating motions of the levers, whereby the latter are displaced in a vertical
direction, but the construction and operation of these parts is too well known to
need further description. The lever I acts on the top feed surface G through a
feed bar G', which carries such top surface and swings on a pivot 10 (see Fig. 19),
whilst it is subjected to the action of a spring ", having a tendency to depress the
feed surface. The spring is arranged to act on the feed bar G' through a swivel-
pin 2 to avoid friction.

page_text: In ordinary sewing machines having only a lower moveable feed surface the
upper layer of material gets its motion only by frictional contact with the other or
lower layer of material, which is in direct contact with and receives the impulse
from the feed surface, and for this reason the lower layer of material has a tendency
to move faster than the upper layer, another reason therefor being the fact that
the upper layer is retarded by the presser-foot. By using the two feed surfaces F, G,
both layers of material receive a positive motion, and hence the disadvantage named
is thereby overcome.
The presser foot d has a vertically reciprocating motion, and it clamps the work
in the retrograde movement of the feed surfaces, but rises in the forward motions
thereof so as to allow the free passage of the material.
The parts for operating the upper feed surface G are in this example placed on
the cloth plate A, but in some cases, as when it is desired to sew the sweat directly
to the hat brim, or to use the entire cloth plate for manipulating the work, such
parts may be applied to the machine arm.
The lower feed surface F is plain or smooth, whilst the upper feed surface G is
roughened in the usual manner, as shown in Fig. 19, and hence if a sweat is
introduced to the machine in a reversed state the face thereof is presented to the
lower or smooth feed surface, and is thus left intact or uninjured, whilst the back of
the sweat is caught by the upper roughened surface. If desired, however, both
surfaces F, G, may be left smooth or both may be roughened.
Suitable guides are used for introducing the sweat, as well as the parts to be
attached thereto, and N designates the sweat guide, the remaining guides being in
in this example omitted. From this guide N projects a flat spring arm 0, the free
end of which bears on the throat-plate adjacent to the needles c, c, so that the
sweat is clamped thereby adjacent to the sewing point. The object of this clamping
the sweat is to insure its being presented to the stitch forming mechanism in a
perfectly flat state, and to assist in guiding the material uniformly thereto. If
desired the spring arm O may be made separate from the guide N.
'
A serious objection to ordinary sewing machines, and especially when used for
stitching the sweats before mentioned, has been the care required to detect an
imperfection, as a knot, in the thread, before the same reached the needle, as if that
takes place and the thread breaks it becomes necessary to remove all the previous
stitches of the sweat that is being sewed and to retrim the sweat for the removal
of the needle holes. This disadvantage is overcome by using a signal apparatus,
which is adapted to receive or guide the thread, and constructed to indicate an
imperfection therein, thus enabling the operator to stop the machine before the
imperfection gets to the needle.
This signal apparatus may operate an audible or visible signal, and it is located
between the thread receiving eye p and the tension device q (see Fig. 21), the same
consisting in this example of a hammer lever R, which is hung on a pivot S fixed
to the machine arm B, and is provided with a slot t (Fig. 22) open at one end for
the reception of the thread in connection with a gong U. The slot t is just wide
enough to permit the thread to pass through it, and in its normal position the
lever R is inclined towards the thread receiving eye p, this position thereof being
determined by a stop V; but when in the passage of the thread a knot or the like
meets the lever, the latter is thereby displaced and thrown upon the gong so as to
sound the same.
It is obvious that this signal apparatus is capable of various modifications, and
if desired it may be arranged to close an electric circuit for operating the signal.
In some cases the machine is provided with a gauge for the outer edge of the
sweat, held in position by means of a spring, so that it is adapted to yield.
Having thus explained the nature of the Invention, and the manner of carrying
it into effect, I claim, referring to the first part of it, illustrated by Figs. 1 to 8
inclusive, as new,-
1°. The combination in a sweat for hats or caps of a lining or reed cover
projecting beyond one edge of the sweat, and attached thereto by a double row of

page_text: machine stitches connected together, one penetrating the lining or reed cover alone
at or near the edge of the sweat, and the other penetrating both the sweat and the
lining or reed cover inward or upward from such edge, the connecting parts or
members of the stitches being on the face of the sweat, and being substantially
parallel to each other, as and for the purpose described.
2°. The combination with a sweat for hats or caps of an attached reed or cord
cover, composed of lace or other open work fabric, to render visible the reed or its
facing, as shown and described.
3. The within described method of stitching sweats for ornamental purposes on
a machine with two needles and a shuttle common to both needles, consisting in
allowing one needle to penetrate the fabric near one of its edges, and the other
to work exterior of such edge without penetrating the fabric, so that the shuttle
catches the thread loops of both needles, but leaves the same in a loose condition,
thus producing producing a row of stitches in imitation of braid or crochet work,
as shown and described.
4°. As a new article of manufacture a sweat for hats or caps, having a reed cover
attached thereto by machine stitches in imitation of hand-whipping, substantially
as shown and described.
Referring to the second part of the Invention, as illustrated in the Drawings by
Figs. 9 to 12 inclusive, I claim as new,-
1°. A sweat for hats or caps, having its edge cut down to about one half the
original thickness, and folded substantially as described, to render the thickness of
the folded portion about equal to that of the body of the article.
2°. The combination with a stretched edge sweat, and with a reed or spring
applied to such edge, of a fastening or stay adapted to hold the reed against longi-
tudinal displacement, substantially as described.
Referring to the third part of the Invention, as illustrated in Figs. 13 to 14, I
claim as new,-
1°. The combination with a stretched edge sweat and lining or reed cover of a
reed or spring surrounded with an envelope of paper or other like material, substan-
tially as and for the purpose described.
20. The combination with a sweat and lining or reed cover of a reed or spring
having an oblong cross section, substantially as and for the purpose described.
3°. The combination with a sweat of a reed or spring applied to its upper edge,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
Referring to the fourth part of the Invention, as illustrated in Fig. 15, I claim
as new,-
The combination of a lining or reed cover with a sweat having a bevelled edge,
and having the lining or reed cover attached thereto upon such edge, substantially
as and for the purpose described.
Referring to the fifth part of the Invention, as illustrated in Fig. 16, I claim as
new,-
The within described method of producing sweats for hats or caps by stitching
the sweats successively to a continuous lining or reed cover enclosing a continuous
reed or spring, and then separating the sweats from each other by cutting the lining
or reed cover, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Referring to the sixth part of the Invention, as illustrated in Figs. 17 to 22
inclusive, I claim as new,-
1°. In a sewing machine the combination with two needles and concomitant
parts of a feed mechanism having its surface or surfaces arranged to move in a
plane obliquely to the horizontal plane of the needles, substantially as and for the
purpose described.
2°. In a sewing machine a feed mechanism constructed with a lower and upper
noveable feed surface, substantially as and for the purpose described.
3º. In a sewing machine a feed mechanism constructed with a lower and upper
moveable feed surface, one plain or smooth and the other roughened, substantially
as and for the purpose described.

page_text: 4°. In a sewing machine the employment of a spring arm adapted to clamp the
work adjacent to the sewing point, substantially as described.
5°. In a sewing machine the combination of a work guide and a flat spring arm
projecting from such guide to clamp the work adjacent to the sewing point, sub-
stantially as described.
6°. In a sewing machine a signal apparatus adapted to receive or guide the
sewing thread, and constructed to indicate an imperfection therein, substantially as
described.
7°. In a sewing machine the combination of a signal lever having a slot open at
one end for the reception of the sewing thread, and a gong arranged to be acted
on by said lever, substantially as described for the purpose set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Nineth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight-hundred and eighty one.