IMPROVEMENTS IN NECKTIES OR CRAVATS, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTSARE APPLICABLE TO OTHER ARTICLES OF WEARING 'APPAREL
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Crosbie Aitken Henderson and Matthew
Eley, both of Hart Street, in the City of London, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN NECKTIES OR CRAVATS, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Crosbie Aitken
Henderson and Matthew Eley at the Office of the Commissioners
of Patents, with their Petition, on the 26th November 1873.
We, JOHN CROSBIE AITKEN HENDERSON and MATTHEW ELEY, both
of Hart Street, in the City of London, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN NECKTIES OR CRAVATS, PARTS of
WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE APPLICABLE TO OTHER ARTICLES OF WEARING 'APPAREL,"
to be as follows:_*
Our said Invention relates to means for effecting the more speedy and
secure fastening of neckties or cravats, and for dispensing' in some
instances with the ordinary band thereof, and rendering the ties or other
articles cheaper and lighter than heretofore. To effect these purposes we

page_text: take vulcanite, leather, pasteboard, metal, wire, bone, or other material,
or composition, and mould, cut, or otherwise give the desired shape to the
same. Then we make a hole or opening therein and from the said hole
or opening we extend a narrow slot (or slots); the hole must be
sufficiently large to admit a portion or the whole of a button, stud, or
projection. This mould or shape is then attached to the necktie or
cravat, and when the same is worn the said hole or opening is placed
over the button and by a slight movement the slot is caused to slide
behind the said button, catching the shank, stem, or thread that
connects the same to the material or garment. The tie or cravat will
then be perfectly secure; one side or both sides of the slot or slots may
be bevelled to present a smaller surface for friction, and to form a better
guide to the button, stud, or projection from which the said tie or cravat
is to be suspended. The aforesaid fastening may be provided with a
hinge if desired; it may also have a spring or catch to keep the button
or stud in its place until released. This part of our Invention is
applicable for fastening buttons for coats and other articles of wearing
apparel.
Our Invention also relates to moulding, cutting, or shaping vulcanite,
metal, or other suitable material or composition into a circular band that
will fit the neck and hold simply by its own elasticity, although it may
have a fastening added if desired, or the fastening device first herein
described may be combined with the same. To this band may be
attached the usual necktie or cravat; or a tie, cravat, or scarf fashioned
in vulcanite or other suitable material may be added or attached to the
same..
Our said Invention also relates to a moulded, cut, or otherwise shaped
end for the bands of neckties. These ends may be of equal or varying
length, width, or thickness, and are made in vulcanite, metal, or
composition, or other suitable-material or substance. The surface of
these ends may be either smooth or otherwise, by preference we use
vulcanite. The band of the necktie or cravat is inserted, eyeleted,
clipped, stitched, or otherwise fastened to this end, and the latter is
passed through a clip or other fastener.
_ According to another part of our Invention we take vulcanite, metal,
composition, or other suitable material, and mould, cut, or otherwise
shape the same as may be required for the neckties or cravats. The

page_text: said moulded or shaped pieces when affixed to the necktie do not
require covering all over as is necessary with neckties as heretoforo
made, we therefore effect a saving of material and obtain great
strength, durability, and facility of fastening the necktie. The fastening
device first herein described or other fastenings may be combined with
this part of our Invention.
According to another part of our Invention for the purpose of making
neckties and other articles of dress wherein wadding is used less harsh,
and with a more soft, full, pleasant, and rounded appearance and more
durable, we take paper, net, cloth, or other fabric or material and
cover the same with cotton wool or other wadding, on one or both sides
either at the time of manufacturing the said wadding or by a subsequent
process: We thus provide for the necktie or other article a firm, tough,
soft, thick material wherewith to line and pad the same, and so obviate
the sharp angles, points, creases, and the like which are so soon cut
through and worn out before the other parts of the said necktie or other
article.
Furthermore, for the manufacture of certain neckties and the like we
take paper, pasteboard, fabric, cloth, or any suitable material, and color,
print, emboss, and specially finish them with patterns similar to silk or
other materials used for neckties or with other patterns.
According to another part of our Invention instead of making the nut
of a necktie or cravat a fixture and all in one place as in an ordinary
necktie, we make a portion of the said knot fixed and a portion loose
or moveable in one or more places. Such portion or portions to be
attached to any part of the necktie (we may deem necessary, and the
same may be folded in any direction and fastened where desired by a
hook or hooks, or other fastener or fasteners; or the said loose or
movable portion may move laterally or revolve. We also provide the
necktie with three or more ends of one or a number of colors or shapes,
so that one tie will possess the advantage of shewing divers colors,
patterns, and shapes in greater variety than at present. Any of the
above described improvements may be applied singly or in combination
to the necktie or other article.

page_text: filed by the said John Crosbie Aitken Henderson and Matthew Eley
in the Great Seal. Patent Office on the 26th May. 1874. --
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHN
CROSBIE AITKEN HENDERSON and MATTHEW ELEY, both of Hart Street,
in the City of London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of November, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the
thirty-seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto us, the, said John Crosbie Aitken
Henderson and Matthew Eley, Her special licence that we, the said
John Crosbie Aitken Henderson and Matthew Eley, our executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said John Crosbie
Aitken Henderson and Matthew Eley, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle, of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN NECKTIES OR CRAVATS,
PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ABE APPLICABLE TO OTHER ARTICLES OF WEARING
APPAREL," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said John
Crosbie Aitken Henderson and Matthew Eley, our executors, or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under our, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature, of the said Invention,. and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and; cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office, within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters, Patent..
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said John, Crosbie Aitken Henderson
and Matthew Eley, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement, reference

page_text: cation:_
Our said Invention relates to means for effecting the more speedy and
secure fastening of neckties or cravats, and for dispensing in some
instances with the ordinary band thereof and rendering the ties or other
articles cheaper and lighter than heretofore. To effect these purposes
according to one part of our Invention we take pieces of vulcanite,
leather, pasteboard, metal, bone, or other material or composition, and
mould, cut, or otherwise give the desired shape to the same.
(A, B, C, D, E, represent some of the most common shapes when, the
said pieces are formed of any of these materials); F represents a piece
formed of wire. We make a hole or opening a in the said pieces and
from the said hole or opening we extend a narrow slot 6 (or slots); the
hole a must be sufficiently large to admit a button or its head, or a stud
or projection. This moulded or shaped piece is then attached to the
necktie or cravat, and when the same is worn the said hole or opening a
is placed over the button, stud, or projection, and by a slight movement
the slot 6 is caused to slide behind the head of the said button, catching
the shank, stem, or thread that connects the same to the material or
garment to which the said button, stud, or projection is fastened. ., The
tie or cravat.will then be perfectly secure; one side or both sides of the
slot or slots b. may be bevelled to present a smaller surface. for friction,
and to form a better guide to the button, stud, or projection from which
the said tie or cravat is to be suspended. The necktie or cravat, provided
with this improved fastening is easily put on and taken off, and is
there re not subjected to the pulling, twisting, and straining required
with other fastenings, and will therefore last a long time in good condition
for wearing. This fastening permits the tie to be brought close up to
the neck, thereby preventing the shewing of the button, stud, or pro-
jection which is often undesirable and unsightly. When a band is used
it need not. be. made more tight than. is necessary to hold it, thereby
obviating. the necessity for excessive tightness of-the, band..which is
often uncomfortable and in some cases, even prejudicial to circulation.
The aforesaid fastening may be provided with a hinge. c if, desired
as shewn at C; the said hinge will facilitate. the putting, on and
taking off of the tie, and in some cases will improve its appearance;
-

page_text: According to another part of our Invention for the purpose of making
neckties and other articles of dress wherein wadding is used less harsh
and with a more soft, full, pleasent, and rounded appearance and more
durable, we take paper, net, cloth, or other fabric or material and
cover the same with cotton wool or other wadding on one or both sides
either at the time of manufacturing the said wadding or by a subesquent
process, that is to say, the wadding or other substance is attached by
size or other adhesive substance or otherwise incorporated with the
fabric. We thus provide for the necktie or other article a firm, tough,
soft, thick material wherewith to line and pad the same, and so
obviate the sharp angles, points, creases, and the like, which are soon.
cut through and worn out before the other parts of the said necktie or
other article. Although this material is chiefly designed for improved
ties or cravats, it may be very advantageously used wherever and for
whatever purposes wadding is now used in articles of wearing apparel
without its liability to change its position or form lumps in such

page_text: divers colours, patterns, and shapes in greater variety than at present. Any
of.the above described improvements may be applied singly or in com-
bination to a necktie or cravat.
Having thus fully described our said Invention and the manner of
performing the same, we wish it understood that we claim,―
First. Providing a necktie or cravat with a slotted fastener as herein
set forth and for the purposes specified.
Second. Forming the said slotted fastener with a hinge as herein set
forth and for the purpose specified.
Third. A necktie or cravat provided with a slotted fastener, or a
slotted and hinged fastener, and with a band of vulcanite or other
suitable material as herein set forth.
Fourth. Providing a necktie or cravat with vulcanite or other ends
which are attached to but not covered or enclosed by the silk or other
material of which the said necktie or cravat is made, as herein set forth
and for the purpose specified.
. Fifth. The moulded or shaped piece forming the barrel or knot or back
of the knot of a necktie, and which is uncovered or partially covered
with the silk or other fabric, and which may be slotted to form a fastener
as herein set forth and for the purpose specified.
Sixth. The application of cotton wool or other wadding or similar
material to the neckties or other articles of dress in the manner herein
set forth and for the purposes specified.
Seventh. A necktie or cravat provided with my improved fastener,
and formed or partially formed of paper or woven fabric colored, printed, a
or embossed, or otherwise especially finished; as herein set forth and for
the purposes specified.
'
Eighth. A necktie or cravat with a "knot"
or front portion which is
partly fixed and partly moveable or adjustable, as herein set forth and
for the purposes specified.
Ninth. Providing a necktie with any desired, number of ends of the

page_text: same colour or of different colours, as herein set forth and for the purpose
specified:
In witness whereof, I, the said John Crosbie Aitken Henderson,
for myself and on behalf of the said Matthew Eley, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-sixth day of May, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
four.
10
Witness,
JOHN CROSBIE AITKEN HENDERSON. (L.S.)
JAMES EDWARDS,
8, Southampton Buildings,
London.