IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY COMBINING BRAID AND LACE MACHINES
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Augustus Büdenbänder, of G1, Aldermanbury, in the City
of London, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY COMBINING
BRAID AND LACE MACHINES." A communication from abroad by Albert
Henkels, of Langerfeld District, Hagen, Germany.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Augustus Büdenbänder at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 23rd March 1880.
AUGUSTUS BODENBANDER, of 61, Aldermanbury, in the City of London.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY COMBINING BRAID AND LACE MACHINES." A
communication from abroad by Albert Henkels, of Langerfeld District, Hagen,
Germany.
The object of this Invention as stated here is a combined braid and lace machine
for the purpose of producing designs of lace and perforated braids like those
manufactured up to the present time by hand.
The inventor has thereby deflected from the system of the well-known braid
machines by which the spools run in a serpentine like guide track cut out in an
iron plate, and through repeated crossing form the plait in this serpentine line.
The bobbin laces in their different designs, quite anomalous from the braid designs
made on the well-known braid-machine, require that one is able to work with each
thread at will. It must be possible to unite the threads in any number in groups,
and just as well to separate them at will. For this purpose are inserted between
the single plates (viz., a part of the braid machine which answers to a wing wheel
driving the spools) of the common braid machine, intermediate or connecting plates,
and I call the first, for distinction from the latter, chief plates. Each single plate
can be locked from its neighbouring plate at will by a kind of sliding rail, or it can
be brought in connection, so that one can close each chief plate as an independent
partial machine, or also can connect by any number of spools with the next chief
plate over the connection plate. The spools must always stand in a definite
opposite position to each other, that is, the distance from one spool to the other
must always be proportionate, to prevent colliding; but as by this one would let go
certain spools over the connection plate, while other spools remain on the chief plate,
the first of course travel a longer distance than the latter spools, consequently an

page_text: alteration of the reciprocal position of the spools takes place. The consequence
would be that two spools would fall into the same place of the wing wheel which
drives the spools and collide. In order to avoid this there are applied on both sides
of the chief plates secondary or regulating plates, which form a kind of adjoining
track in which one guides the spools which run danger of colliding with others
so long till they can regain the right position to these. Instead of these secondary
plates there can also be made use of a notch which branches from the chief track
and takes up the spool which is to be regulated as long as necessary and in order
then that the spool be pushed back in its right position. The special purpose of
this last mechanism is explained lower down.
A further chief requisite for the production of bobbin laces is that the number
of wings of the wing wheels of the chief, connection, and secondary plates which
drive the spools must stand in a definite proportion to each other.
The chief plates as skeleton of the machine must have, as smallest number of
wings, four, as at least always two spools work together in order to produce a
bobbin lace; but these two spools on the chief plate must have at least between
them an empty wing, in order generally to make possible a confused run, viz., the
crossing of the spools of the individual chief plates. The connection plates of
two such chief plates must have at least two wings, as these must each take up a
spool at the same time from the two chief plates, which spools, if they return to
their chief plates, accomplish an entwining, viz., twist. If they pass over on the
other chief plate a single crossing of two threads is accomplished.
Do each two spools cross behind one another, viz., do each two spools of n
chief plate change their position, so arises a plaiting of four threads. The two
winged connection plates are at the same time the best, as the spools on these by
crossing make the shortest possible way.
There happens now on the secondary or regulating plates with the smallest wing
proportion between chief and connection plates two eventualities. Do the spouls
simply pass over from one chief plate to the other, they make the way of one wing's
length on the connection plate. Do the spools, however, return from connection
plate to their chief plate, they make the way of two wings' lengths.
All spools which in the meantime remain on the chief plates must consequently
be regulated, viz., put back in their position, once for one wing's length, and the
other time for two wings' length, in order that the connection spools do not collide
with these in one wing. In order to make possible the alternating of both, there
are two ways stand open, and in fact one uses one single winged secondary plate,
and regulates one wing's length by the spools which do not use the connection plate
passing through the secondary plate once, and two wings' length by passing through
twice; or else, what is more practical for the construction of the machine, one
arranges a two-winged secondary plate, and lets in any case the spools not using
the connection plate pass this, while one lets the connection spools which have only
inade one wing's length on the connection plate stand still for one wing's length
more on the chief plate, so that by this they arrive again at the right position.
This standing still of the spools on the chief plate is caused by leaving out from
the four wings of this the two opposite ones, so that the spools which pass over a
connection plate direct on to another chief plate come always to such a place of
the latter where there is no wing on the chief plate, the spool thus stops one wing's
length, and so comes into its right position to the spools which have returned on
the connection plate, and which consequently have made two wings' length on it,
or to those which in the meantime have made on the secondary plate a distance of
two wings' length. The leaving off of two opposite laying wings of the chief plate
is thereby feasible; that the spools in order to remain constantly in their proper
opposite position inust necessarily always take the same wing places on the chief
plate. As now the spools on these plates always have between them each one
empty wing, so these are unnecessary if only their room exists.
In the above has been described the smallest and simplest proportion of the chief
connection, and secondary plates. But should now connection spools of two neigh-

page_text: bouring chief plates, viz., partial machines, return on the connection plates, viz., make
a circular motion, and then pass over to the neighbouring chief plate, so these make,
firstly, two wings' length, then another, thus making altogether a distance of three
wings' length on the connection plate. In this case a four winged chief plate is not
sufficient, as we see this in the spool courso represented by sketch in the Fig. XII.
a-d, Table II. There are drawn two partial machines, the one composed of the four
winged chief plate A 1, two winged secondary plate C1, and the two winged
connection plate B, the other of the chief plate A 2, secondary plate C2, and the
same connection plate. This latter belongs to both partial, machines as means for
connection to enter, and in fact by the spools 1 and 1 a. These two connection
spools in Fig. XII. a have just passed from their respective chief plate over on the
connection plate B in the Fig. XII. b, c, & d. The spools are imagined one wing's
length each forward, so that the same make the distance on the connection plate
of three wing's lengths, when they have arrived on their respective neighbouring
chief plate in Fig. XII. d, & in fact in a place where the wing is left off (in the
Drawing described by dots). The spools would consequently remain standing here
a wing's length in order then to be taken along with the following wings. In
these wings have arrived however in the meantime the spools 2 & 2a, which have
passed over the respectivo secondary plate, as is visible from Fig. XII. a-d. There
would consequently come in one wing a pair of spools, the spools 2 and 1 a, and 1
and 2 a, which dare not be done. The number of wings of the chief plate in
consequence thereof must be enlarged, and in fact a six winged chief plate suffices
in this case, as is visible by the represented spool course sketched in Fig. XIII. a-f.
Should the connection spools on the connection plate make a distance of four wings'
length, so a six winged chief plate again would not be sufficient; but it must be an
eight winged one, whereby follows, that the chief plates of these machines must
always have at least double as many wings as the greatest number of wing's lengths
amount to which are made on the connection plates. An equal proportion takes
place between chief and secondary plates. It is clear that one can make the chief
plates larger at will if only the above condition is fulfilled, and the number of
wings is divisable by two. The extra applied wings, however, are superfluous and
without design.
The chief plates on these machines are not alone to be considered as proper
partial machines. In order to produce coherent work a certain number of spools
must always use the connection plates and in consequence thereof others must uso
the secondary plates. The partial machine constructs itself either out of the chief
plate & its two secondary plates or by connection occurring out of the chief plate,
connection plate, and one secondary plate. This division of the machine into single
partial machines of two spools each makes the production of a loose open laying
bobbin lace work possible. Four threaded partial machines would be obtained by
joining two two threaded ones. Should one however aim at a four threaded partial
machine only, so that a two-threaded division remains excluded, & the connection
between these four threads remains limited to a single crossed, not twisted, connec
tion, there would fall away a connection plate each. There can be made in this
manner the most variated combinations in the construction of the machine, if only
the fundamental conditions are maintained, that the chief plates have at least double
as many wings as wings' length shall be made on the connection plates, and that
even these wings' lengths, through a yielding of certain spools out of the chief track,
can be regulated on the secondary plates.
The separation, viz., locking of the single plates from each other, happens, as
already mentioned, by peculiarly constructed sliding rails, which get moved by a
special so called joining apparatus connected with the machine, viz., by a peculiar
lever mechanisin applied in the machine itself.
The spools are the same as on the hitherto braid machine, and also the so called
5 leading needles for the threads, and the beater work which gathers together the
threads on the thread gatherer. The drawing off of the threads from the spools
does not however happen through the rolling machinery which up till now has

page_text: been used, which generally consists of three plain rollers lying horizontally one upon
another, but there is applied close behind the thread gatherer either a cog wheel like
pair of rollers whose teeth are various heights along the width, and are partly quite
omitted, or only such a roller in which a link chain catches. These two mechanisms
make possible a diverse drawing off of the thread from the spools according to the
width of the lace, so that the single width parts of the lace can be worked opener
or closer according to pattern, which is absolutely necessary for the production of
bobbin laces. After the lace has passed this mechanism it comes into the rolling
machinery, as on the old braid machines, to be flattened. In the annexed Drawings
Tables I., 11., & III., there is represented a machine constructed according to above
mentioned principles, and in fact, in reference to the number of wings of the plates,
after the smallest proportion between chief, connection, and secondary plates. The
same consists, for example, of ten four winged chief plates A 1, A 2, etc., Table I.,
which are arranged concentrically.
Between each two chief plates is inserted a two winged connection plate B 1, B2,
etc., one of these is probably in the chief production of open laces left unused. On the
interior side of the chief plates is applied a secondary plate each C1, C2, etc., and
on the outer side is applied a mechanism D1, D2, etc., representing the secondary
plates.
On Table I. the whole machine is represented in the different plans. Fig. I.a
shows a top view of a part of the bobbin lace machine, viz., the serpentine like
guide track cut ont in the top plate of the machine and stipples the underlying
wing wheels which drive the spools. Between each two plates there is a sliding
rail, whose circular part is let in the half worked out top plate, while the pointed
tougue like part has the thickness of the top plate.
The so called sliding rails rotate on axles which go through top and under-
plate P1, P2, of the machine (Fig. III., Table II.). On the outer side of the chief
plate A 1, A 2, etc., is the guide track for the regulating or secondary plates, not cut
out circular, but are only notches D1, D2, etc., which branch from the chief track,
and can likewise be opened & shut by a sliding rail. The purpose and value of
this inechanism is described lower down. In the track are marked further the
spools; Fig. 1. b shows a part of the plan, after taking away the top plate P', and
in fact the wing wheels and the mechanism for regulating the course of the spools.
The proper four winged wing wheels existing under the chief plates have only two
wings, while the other two are left off; Fig. I. c represents a plan underneath the
wing wheels, and in fact, the mechanism as before, and, further, the cogwheels with
the wing wheels fixed on an axle. On the axle of the chief plate there is a larger
cogwheel in which the cogwheels of the connection plates B and the interior
secondary plates C catch, and above this chief plate a smaller one in which the cog
wheel to be found in the place of the outer secondary plate catches; Fig. 1.d shows
a plan underneath the underplate of the machine. We see the sliding rail axles
provided with levers (in Fig. I.b and I. c, stippled with dots) and connected by pairs
of draw bars, and, in fact, so that the two sliding rails on each of the two secondary
plates C and D of a chief plate, and the two sliding rails on each one connection
plate B are connected under each other, as these pairs of sliding rails with the small
number of wings of the single plates can work proportionately. The sliding rails
of the secondary plates are put in motion by mechanism in the machine itself, while
the sliding rails on the connection plates are connected by levers and draw bars
with a peculiar joining apparatus, Fig. I.e, and by this means are moved. It is
clear that one could put in motion the first sliding rails by the joining apparatus, as
well one could connect in case of requirement each sliding rail singly with the
joining apparatus. Fig. II. a, Table II., shows a part of the side view of the machine,
and Fig. II.b a vertical cut through the joining apparatus in connection with the
machine.
Over the middle of the machine we see the thread gatherer S, and close behind
this the cog-wheel like pair of rollers for drawing off the yarns from the spools.
Fig. III. represents a vertical cut, as line x-y, Fig. I.b; Fig. IV., a part of the joining

page_text: apparatus in the view; Fig. V. shows the receiving rollers in the details;,
Fig. VI, the receiving mechanism with cog-wheel like rollers or link chain;
Fig. VII., Table III., a mechanism to bring out spools out of the chief track, and to
replace them again at will. For explanation of the machine in its single parts we
follow the course of two spools, as it is represented in the Figs. VIII., IX., X., XI.,
Table 111. The Figures show a part of the machine in the top view in four con-
secutive positions of the wing wheels, and in fact moved forward one wing's length
each, and there are two spools therein drawn in their progressive movement..
Spool I., Fig. VIII., has arrived from chief plate A 2 over the connection plate B 2, on
to the chief plate A 1. It has therefore made a distance of one wing's length on
the intermediate plate, while other spools which return on the connection plate
make a distance on this of two wings' length. Spool I, must therefore either pass a
one winged secondary plate, or, as this is not present, it must hold itself back one
wing's length in the chief track. It happens through this that the spool arrives on
a place of the chief plate where the wing is left off, viz., a place which, in order to
inaintain the proper opposite spool position, never should be occupied by a spool.
In order that the spool by the velocity of its own course is not now swung into the
secondary plate C1, whose locking sliding rail a I. and c I. cannot yet be quite.
closed, the lever E is applied, against whose higher standing front ende the spool
runs, and is detained by its peg. This lever E is rotable round an axle bedded
in the top and under plate, and is kept so long in its position by the exenter F on
the axis of the chief plate A 1 so long till the sliding rail a I. and c I. is closed. Does
the wing of the chief plate now reach the spool I., the exenter F has also set
free the lever E, and can be pushed aside unprevented, the spool consequently
continues its course.
(Figs. IX. and X.), spool II., we assume has made the same way as spool I., and
shall remain on the chief plate A 1, viz., return. As now other spools, which in
the meantime, return on the connection plates, make on these a distance of two
wings length, so must spool II. make a corresponding distance as well, that one
can obtain thereby the passage of the same over a two winged secondary plate.
As however the thread of the spool at each time of passing of a secondary plate
causes in itself a twist, which would finally consequently curl, there is made on the
place of the outer secondary plate another mechanism, whereby the spool is only
pushed out for a time from the chief truck, then in the proper moment is put back
again in the track, and can continue its course. Thus spool II. (Fig. VII.) driven
by the wing a I. shall be put back. It arrives at the sliding rail a I. and d I., this
closes the chief track, and forces the spool in the groove D 1, and in fact so far that -
the expressly formed wing a can pass by the spool peg. The next wing of the .
chief plate is not there. The spool shall now be taken along with wing a conse-
quently two wings' length behind a, and must therefore be put back in the chief
track. This one attains by the lever G moveable on an axle, which is put in
motion at the proper time by the thumb H on the axle J by one top cog wheel of
the chief plate catching in the equal large cogwheel. This lever G leads the spool
by its front hooked shaped ends, & brings it back into the chief track (Fig. XI.).
Has the the wing a now reached the spool, so has the thumb H set at liberty the
lever G as well, and the same can be pushed back unprevented (Fig. X.); the
sliding rail has in the meantime opened the chief track, and the spool can continue
its course. Should the spool still remain on the chief plate it must be put back for.
two wings' length, which one attains by the passage of the same over the secondary
pinte C1 (Fig. XI.). One could apply the same inechanism in this place as at D;
however, it is better here to have the spool made to go circular, as hereby tho
twist of the thread itself made on the chief plate is annulled again by the opposite
twist. Did the spool II., come from the chief plate A3 over the connection
plate B1 on A 1, so the same ought to be put back one wing's length. It would
have reached the chief plate in the place, Fig. IX., hereby the lever G would be kept
back, so that it is not swung into the still not quite closed slit D, and then by
wing a 1, sent further in the chief track as before. The sliding rails between tlio.

page_text: chief and connection plates are regulated by the joining apparatus. By the same
manner one could regulate the sliding rails on the secondary plates, viz., the cuts
which represent these, as these sliding rails however could have quite a regular
course, and in fact, each pair at the same time are connected under the underplate
of the machine by lever Q and bar 7 (Fig. I. b, c, and d), and set in motion by two
levers K and L, fixed on an axle between top and underplate (Fig. 1. b, c, and d), and
in fact so that they close the chief track once each time of completo turning of the
chief plate as well as open it again. The closing is effected by the lever K by
means of the exenter M above the cog wheels of the chief plates, and the opening
,by the lever L by means of the oxenter N over the cogwheel of the axle J. The
exenters are so formed that they keep the sliding rails in their allotted position so
long till they have taken the right course.
The pair of sliding rails on each connection plate are likewise connected by
means of lever P and bar p underneath the underplate, as they must act simul-
taneously; further, there is on the axle of one of these sliding rails two levers
R and R 1, viz., one on each axle, on which are applied drawbars r which are in
connection with the joining apparatus (Fig. I., b, c and d, and Fig. II. a and b). The
joining apparatus represented on Table I., Fig. I. e in the top view; Table II.,
Fig. II. the b in tranverse cut, in Fig. IV. in the side view, consists in reality of two
rows of cogwheels S and S1 over which peculiar formed link chains run. For each
simultaneously working pair of sliding rails there are two chains required, the one
for closing the other for opening. The top cogwheels S are fixed on a passing
through axle S. This axle runs in beds applied on the underplates of the machine,
and there is on the same the impellent, as this can be seen on Table I. The under-
chain wheels $1 run on single axles which are bedded in adjustable levers V in
order to make an eventual tightening of the chain possible. Each link of the chain
T bas holes through which scrow pegs w can be stuck through and fastened.
These screw pegs work by the forward moving of the chain over the top chain
wheels T on the pegs X, which are fixed by adjusting screws on the sledges Y.
These sledges Y run in two guidances Z and Z 1. On the ends y of the same the
drawbars are fixed by means of adjusting screws, which on the other ends are in
connection with the levers R and R1, and by this transport the movement on to
the sliding rails. On Table 1. are drawn only sliding rails which lay next to the
joining apparatus connected with the same, while the other drawbars Z are broken
off.
In Fig. VII., Table III., there is represented a modification of the regulating
mechanism at D Table I. in order to disunite spools from work at any time at will
out of the chief track, so that the same do not rotate on a secondary plate, whereby
the threads of the spools would curl, and besides the duration of the disuniting
would always be a limited one. The slit D is lengthened so that the spool can be
brought by the front forked form lever G so far that the sliding rail a₁, d₁, closes
itself behind the spool, and consequently can set free the chief track for other spools
following. The thumb H, and as well axle J (Table I) fall away, and the lever G is
by two levers G1 and G2 and drawbars g1 & 2 fixed on its axle underneath the
underplate of the machine, put in notion by means of the joining apparatus. Does
one want the spool again the sliding rail a₁, d, is opened by the joining apparatus
and the spool is put back again in the chief track by the lever G, and the sliding rail
after this is closed again. The lever G can then itself be pushed back by the spool
peg. As already mentioned the threads of the spools on the hitberto braid machine
are drawn off by having the lace or braid passed through the so called rolling
machinery, which in reality usually consists of three plain rollers lying horizontally
one upon another. The single threads go from the spools of the well known
leading needles to the threadgatherer after the same are brought together by the
equally wellknown beating machinery to a lace or braid which then arrives into
the rolling machinery. For forming open or only vandyke patterns it is necessary
that certain parts of the vandyke are worked closer, viz., shorter, and on the other
hand others made looser, viz., longer. Through the mentioned plain cylindrical rollers,

page_text: which can only draw off the threads from the spools equally long, consequently the
threads only get plaited equally dense, as well this demand in not obtained. As well
known up till now, one made use of for this weights of different size and heaviness
attached to the threads, which produced of course, however, only an unevenl
work in a very limited method. On Table II., Fig. V & VI., the mechanism
represented & described as follows make it now possible to produce a pattern
in some places looser or closer at will, which is absolutely necessary for bobbin
lace work, and indeed, 1st, for example:-The represented cog-wheel like pair of
rollers in Fig. V. a-e, in views and side views, whose teeth according as one will
work a part of the pattern closer or looser are different heights along the width of
the rollers, or also are taken quite away. It is clear that the highest toothed parts
of the rollers draw off more material from the spools than the less high toothed
ones, or finally the quite plain parts; consequently the work is closest where the
plain parts work, and where the more or less high toothed parts work it is more or
less loose. Fig. V. a shows pair of rollers of two different transverse cuts, one
quite plain, as Fig. V. b, and one somewhat toothed, as Fig. V. c. In Fig. V. d wo
see such an one of four different transverse cuts, one plain one, one somewhat
toothed, as Fig. V. c, again a plain one, and finally a quite high toothed one, as
Fig. V. e, according to requirement; the form of the single transverse cut in the
pair of rollers, as well as in the rotation of the latter becomes of course another, a
conical form of the rollers and teeth as well does not romain excluded. 2nd. The
mechanism represented in Fig. VI. a-d, consists in reality of a link chain, in which
a small cog wheel catches. The link chain a runs loose over two rollers b and c,
bedded in the stirrup A. The axle of the roller bis adjustable in order to tighten
the chain according to requirement. In the chain a by method of a tightening
roller the small cogwheel d catches, whose teeth, according to requirement are
different heights, or in some places left out altogether; consequently they catch
differently deep in the chain as well, whereby, just as detailed under 1st, sometimes
more sometimes less inaterial is drawn off the spools, and consequently the produc-
tion forms itself accordingly looser or closer.
The braid or lace enters by x, passes between the little cog-wheel and chain, and
comes out at y again, and then reaches the coininon roller work for flattening. The
effect of the mechanisin is the same as on the above described pair of rollers. In
Fig. VI. ad are for example two different modifications of the mechanism in
relation to the formation of the little cogwheel d, represented in transverse cuts
and views. Here also the application of a small conical cogwheel, in which a link
chain catches, whose single link bolts are conical formed, does not remain excluded.
PATENT CLAIMS.
1st. The disposition of a braid and bobbin lace machine composed of a row of
chief plates marked in the Drawings with A, whose number of wings is at least
double as large as the greatest number of wings which the spool shall travel over
on the connection plate B, and which is divisable by two. The connection plates B
are inserted between the chief plates, so & for the purpose as above described, and
as is represented in the annexed Drawings.
2nd. The disposition and application of the secondary plates marked with C for
the balance of the alteration of the equal local proportion arisen through the passing
over of one spool from one chief plate A over one connection plate B on to the
neighbouring chief plate in comparison to those spools which have in the meantime
remained on their respective chief plate, so and for the purpose as above described,
and as is represented in the annexed Drawings.
3rd. The disposition and application of the slit D separable by a sliding rail for
the representation of the secondary plates C, mentioned under 2nd as well as in its
enlarged application, to bring out spools at any time at will from the chief track,
viz., to exclude from the work so that the spools do not make thereby an injurious
rotatory movement for the fabricating production, and the mechanism required for

page_text: leading the spools, so and for the purpose as above described, and as is represented
in the annexed Drawings.
4th. The disposition and application of wing wheels, on which single wings are
left off on behalf of the regulation of the opposite spool position, so and for the
purpose as above described, and as is represented in the annexed Drawings.
5th. The disposition and application of levers E & G, which prevent the spools
from being swung into the momentary not to be used secondary track, which is not
yet quite closed by the regulating sliding rail, so and for the purpose as above
described, and as is represented in the annexed Drawings.
6th. The disposition and application of the mechanism for regulating the move-
ment of the sliding rails on the regulating plates C and the slits D representing
these branching from the chief track, consisting of the levers K. and L and the
exenters M & N, so and for the purpose as above described, and as is represented
in the annexed Drawings.
7th. The disposition and application of the cog-wheel like pair of rollers, whose
teeth are formed higher or lower along the length or the width, or in some places
left out altogether, or as well such like conical rollers as mechanism for drawing off
the material from the spools, so and for the purpose as above described, and us is
represented in the annexed Drawings.
8th. The disposition and application of link chains and little cog wheels catching
in these, whose teeth are different heights along the length or width, consequently
catching differently deep in the chain, or as well such like conical little cogwheels
and link chains with conical bolts as mechanism for drawing off material from the
spools, so and for the purpose as above described, and as is represented in the annexed
Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Augustus Büdenbänder, of 61, Aldermanbury,
London, EC., have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Sixteenth day of
March, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight bundred and eighty.
Seen for legalization of the signature
of Augustus Büdenbänder, Frankfort
o/M, 16 March 1880.
A. L. FUCHEN,
H.B.M. Consul.
AUG. BUDENBANDER. (L.S.)