CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WEARING APPAREL, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JEROME
ANDRE DRIEU, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Machinist, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the First day of August, One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine,
and in the thirteenth year of the reign of Her said Majesty, did for Herself,
Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Jerome Andre Drieu,
Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said
Jerome Andre Drieu, my exors, adññors, and assigns, and such others as I,
the said Jerome Andre Drieu, my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during
the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within England, and Wales, and the Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
WEARING APPAREL, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH;"
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso, that I, the said Jerome
Andre Drieu, shall cause a particular description of the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be enrolled
in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent,
as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at
large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Jerome Andre Drieu, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention.
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly described
and ascertained in and by the Drawings hereto annexed and the following
explanation thereof, that is to say :-
My Invention of improvements in the manufacture of wearing apparel
consists,―
Firstly, in a peculiar mode of weaving certain fabrics into shapes suited for
making up into coats, waistcoats, trowsers, cloaks, and other similar articles of
external clothing for men, and also into other shapes suited for making up into
cloaks, mantles, and other external clothing for women; and,
Secondly, in certain peculiar mechanism or machinery capable of effecting
the said object.
And in order that my Invention may be fully understood, I have added to
this my Specification two sheets of Drawings, which I will now proceed to
describe.
Fig. 1, Sheet 1, is a front elevation of a loom, constructed according to my
said improvements; Fig. 2 is a top or horizontal view thereof; and Fig. 3 is
a vertical section taken through the same in the line a, b. In all of which
figures similar letters and numbers of reference denote the like parts; and I
shall first of all describe the arrangement and construction of machinery I
employ, and afterwards the general operation of the same. The various parts
of the framework of the machine are shewn at a, a, a; the treadles at b, b, b;
the reed and shuttle box at c, c; and the healds or heddles at d, d, d, d.
Instead of the beam upon which the warp threads are usually wound, I place
them upon a number of bobbins e, e, e, e, at the back part of the loom, which
bobbins turn loosely and independant of each other upon axes f, f, f, extending
across the machine, and supported in slots formed in upright bars g, I, I, I.
Upon the bobbins e, e, c, e, are affixed pullies h, h, h, h, to the higher tier of
which are attached and wound weighted cords i, i, i, i, the said weighted cords.
passing around the lower tier also, in order to keep the necessary drag upon
the warp threads from the bobbins e, e, e, e. The warp threads are guided
through a sleak, and from thence, after passing under a roller 1, l, are con-
veyed between the two portions of a drag or clamp m, n, which is constructed
in the following manner:-Extending from one side frame to another is a
stationary bar m, on the upper side of which a cavity is formed as shewn in
Fig. 3. The top part of the clamp is shewn at n, and it will be perceived by
reference to the Drawing, that on the under side thereof there is a projecting
rib fitting into the cavity formed in the upper side of the bar m.
The top part

page_text: n is formed in two pieces in the direction of its length, as shewn in Fig. 2, each
portion thereof being mounted on binges 0, 0, 0, 0, so as to be capable of
turning upwards, as shewn by dots in Fig. 3. To the hinder part of each
portion of the clamp are attached rods p, p, which rods at their lower ends are
connected to levers q, q, turning upon centres r, r, to the outward ends of
the levers 7, 7, cords s, s, are attached, which, after passing under pullies t, t,
are connected at the upper part of the machine to levers u, u, which turn upon
centres, as shewn in the Drawing, to the inward ends of the levers q, q.
Weights v, v, are attached by means of rods, by which arrangement the upper
parts n, n, of the clamp are pressed firmly down upon the lower portion
thereof when it is desired to hold back the warp threads, but when (as 'here-
after to be explained) it is necessary to liberate the warp threads, the work-
man by depressing the end nearest to him of the lever or levers u, u, will,
through the intervention of the cord or cords s, s, cause the lever or levers g, 4,
to turn upon their centres, raising the weight or weights v, v, and also by
means of the rod or rods p. p, cause (as the case may be) one or both of the
upper parts n, n, of the clamp to turn upon their centres o, 0, 0, 0, and thus
liberate the warp threads. Instead of the usual method of taking off the
finished work by means of a roller, I employ (for the purpose herein-after to
be mentioned) the following apparatus, referring more particularly to the
detached Fig. 4, which is drawn upon an enlarged scale. The work as it is
woven is passed over a rod w, which rod is enclosed within the jaws of a series
of clamps or vices a, a, a, a, the jaws thereof being firmly screwed on to the
work, as shewn in Fig. 4. The other ends of the clamps or vices are con-
nected to straps y, y, y, y, which straps pass around a loose strip of wood,
shewn at z, and are provided with ordinary buckles, so that they may be
shortened at pleasure. To the strip of wood are also affixed other straps
1, 1, 1, 1, the lower ends thereof being connected to a roller 2, 2. By this
arrangement I am enabled, when I so desire, to draw off that portion of the
work only which is opposite to one or more of the straps y, y, y, y, or at other
times by turning the roller 2 through the intervention of the handle 3, to wind
the straps 1, 1, thereon, and thus draw forward the whole width of the work.
I will now proceed to describe how this improved mechanism may be
employed for the production of shapes suitable for making into the various
articles of clothing before mentioned; and, in order to illustrate my Invention,
I shall refer to certain diagrams, Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8. Suppose, for instance, it is
desired to weave a shape suitable for being made into an overcoat; in order to
effect this it is evident that that side of the machine which shall produce the
portion of the shape intended to form the skirts must give off more work than

page_text: The
the centre part thereof, so that the required fulness and folds may be obtained,
and also that at that side of the machine which shall produce the portion of
the shape intended for the shoulders more material must be woven.
workman commences weaving as in the usual mode of such operation, and
continues passing his shuttle through the warps by means of the picker handle,
as in ordinary hand looms. This he continues until it is necessary to com-
mence making more work at one or the other side of the loom (suppose in this
instance the right), in which case he may be imagined to have arrived at the
part represented by the line A, A, in diagram, Figure 5. He will then com-
mence inserting the weft thread by means of a hand shuttle, gradually nearer
to the right-hand side of the loom, taking it out, for example, between the
spaces a, b, c, &c., which may be considered to represent those between the
warp threads on a magnified scale), one after the other towards the right hand
end, and working so many courses of treadles at each of the said spaces as his
instructions direct, continuing thus until he shall have arrived at the point B,
the work as woven being in the meantime beaten up by the ordinary means.
The required fulness to form the folds will now have been obtained, such
fulness being in that portion woven between the points A and B; and I will
now consider that it is necessary for a time to weave equally in the whole
breadth of the shapes. In order to continue thus the workman depresses the
lever q, placing it under the notch 4 (Figure 1), which, by the means before
described, will raise the right-hand portion n* of the clamp, and render those
warp thread which were confined by it free to be drawn from their several
bobbins. The reed is then brought forward so as to carry with it that part of
the woven shape between A and B. The clamps or vices x, x, x, x, which
are situated opposite to that part of the work between A and B are then by
means of the straps and buckles y, y, drawn towards the workman until the
whole of the work is brought parallel to the reed, as shewn in the diagram,
Figure 6. The operator will then allow the clamp n again to fall on to the
warp threads, and continue his weaving as desired across the whole breadth of
the work, until it is required to form another portion of extra work or fulness.
It is evident, however, that instead of making work towards the right hand
only, that during the operation of weaving from A to B, the workman may at
intervals cause the weft thread to pass throughout the whole width of the
warp; for instance, after passing his shuttle through the warp to a, he may,
by the means before described, bring the work parallel with the reed, and
then for a certain number of courses weave the whole width, then pass
the weft as far as the space b, and so on. Suppose also, for the sake of
illustration, that it is desired to form a shape having a fulness on each side,

page_text: as represented in the diagram Figure 7, the workman would then weave
as before up to the line A, A; he would then pass a hand shuttle in at
each side of the warp, gradually narrowing the throw of each weft, as in
reference to the last diagram, so as to form the two full portion's A, B, A, D,
in the meantime, however, working the machine shuttle at intervals through-
out the whole width of the warp, the extra weaving at each side being as often
taken up as before described; that is to say, between the points A, B, and
A, D, he shall pass his weft threads more frequently, and as a consequence
make more work than he does in the space between those portions; the shape
thus produced would resemble the half of that suitable for making into an
overcoat, the other half being woven by working similar courses backward,
and when laid out flat would be of similar form to the diagram Figure 8. In
order to produce the pleat for the pocket (if such be desired) the workman
must throw his weft for the required number of picks from E to F only (see
Figure 8), and beat up the work as before, in like manner producing the
centre pleat (if required) as at G, Figure 8. The goods manufactured
according to my improvements I prefer weaving with a double set of warp
threads, so as to manufacture two shapes at the same time; for by this plan I
produce twice the quantity of work with the same amount of labor required
for taking up; one of such double shapes, may, however, form a lining to the
other, and may be of different materials or color to that intended to form the
outward part. In manufacturing sleeves to be applied in making up the coat
or other shape of outward garinents, I proceed, as before described, according
to the form required, and by the use of two sets of warps, as above mentioned,
weave one half of the shape double, and in order to unite such halves I work
the two sets of warps as if they were one set, and pass a weft thread through
them, by which means the halves are stiched together and become a perfect
sleeve. I also adopt this plan to stitch together the linings in coats or other
garments at such places as may be deemed requisite. And I will here remark,
that in making sleeves, that after having formed one such shape I reverse the
sides thereof so as to bring the wider to that side of the loom at which
the narrower side was made; by this plan I prevent a waste of much of the
warp. In order clearly to explain the principle of my Invention I have
described the production of one particular kind of form; but it will be evident
to all competent persons that in this manner any required shape may be given
to the garments intended to be made, and that they may be of cotton, wool,
silk, or other suitable material or mixture of materials. By my improved
method I am also enabled to produce border patterns to garments, such as
ladies' mantles, &c., the said border patterns being woven into the fabric.

page_text: I will now proceed to describe the method I adopt as instructions to the
workman for regulating the shape intended to be produced.
The diagram Figure 9 is a copy of a plan which has actually been in use as
the workman's guide, and is drawn out for the production of an overcoat.
It will be perceived that the said plan is divided vertically by lines. These
correspond in number to the divisions of inches marked upon the ordinary
temple 5, 5, see Figure 2. The two thicker lines enclose a space within
which no fulness or extra work is required, and it is from these two thicker
lines to the right and left that the workman starts in counting the divisions.
The first number written (to the left of the diagram) is four inches, and from
that point a line is drawn extending across the whole of the divisions cor-
responding to those on the temple; this signifies that he is to pass his shuttle
the entire width until he has woven four inches in length of the intended
shape. The next transverse line commences from his starting point to the
right hand, and extends across ten divisions answering to those on the temple,
and has s marked thereon, signifying at the first course of his treadles he is to
weave with a hand shuttle the whole length of that line at the next from the
outward end thereof to the first *, after which as far as the second only,
and so on to the end of the line. The work thus made is then to be brought
forward so as to bring it parallel with the reed, as before described. The
following line, it will be seen, extends throughout the width. The operator
will now, therefore, make his work accordingly, the number 13 signifying that
he must work the treadles that number of courses throughout the whole width
The next line instructs him to weave with the hand shuttle
gradually from the starting point to the right hand, as before described, and so
on, the throw of the weft thread being regulated by the "s upon the transverse
lines. Having arrived at the point Z, it will be perceived that the diagram
instructs him to put in extra work (that is to say, work produced by the hand
shuttles, and which takes place between the intervals of weaving throughout
the width) on both sides. On the right hand he will weave as far as the
transverse line extends, in this case, however, diminishing the throw of his
weft according to the "s, one division at a time on the left-hand side, decreas-
ing at two divisions at a time, as before, and thus continue until he has
worked according to the direction indicated by the line X, above which, at the
right hand, the next operation is to form the pleat for the pocket, the
instructions for this being that the weaver, starting at the line on the temple
corresponding to that on the diagram, shall weave two inches in length and
then beat up his work on the left-hand side. The diagonal line signifies that
he is to weave twenty courses, diminishing the throw of his weft one space
of warp.

page_text: between each such throw in the direction of the said diagonal line. The line
Y represents a central pleat, and is produced in the same manner as the pleat
for the pocket; thus far one half of the intended coat is woven, and the
workman has only to follow the same instructions backwards to complete the
other half. When woollen materials are used the subsequent operations of
dressing and finishing are similar to those adopted with reference to woollen
cloth of ordinary manufacture. I find it convenient, however, in the steaming
process to use, instead of the ordinary cylinder, a chamber of like shape to the
garment when folded around it in pressing; also the millboards between
which the goods are placed should be so made as to project into the form of
the
garment when laid flat. The shapes, when woven and, dressed, are fitted
with collars, sleeves, buttons, &c., in. the usual way, by the tailor or other
workman. Although I have shewn a certain method of accomplishing my
mode of weaving, it will be evident to all competent persons that various
alterations may be made in the arrangement of the machinery without depart-
ing from the principle of my Invention; for instance, the clamp n may be
constructed in three or more pieces if required, and instead of being held upon
the warp threads by means of weights the required pressure may be effected
through the agency of screws or other suitable mechanical contrivances;
instead also of the hand vices and strap described for holding the work, a
similar clamp to that used for the warp threads may be placed above the
breast beam, and caused to press upon the work, when required, by means of
levers and weights or other suitable contrivance. The shape, as produced in
its irregular quantities, be drawn forward by hand; or in some instances the
same may be accomplished by placing in the front of the machine a work
beam so formed so that its periphery shall correspond in form to the shape
intended to be produced; that is to say, the said beam shall be of such unequal
dimensions that the woven shape, when coiled around it, shall fit thereon, and.
this beam may be turned by hand in any convenient manner so as to take up
the work as it is produced; but in order that the warp threads may proceed
therefrom and through the reed in the proper even direction the work must be
passed over a roller. If this arrangement be adopted it will also be necessary.
to wind the warp threads upon a beam similar in shape to that of the work
beam, the threads passing from the various diameters thereof being conveyed
under a roller in order to bring them into the suitable even disposition to the
reed: the operation of the machine under this modification being similar to
that described with reference to the foregoing, no further description will be
necessary, the only difference being that the work is taken by the operation of
turning the beam, and although not applicable in all cases may be found to
answer the purpose for some shapes.

page_text: Having thus fully described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be
understood that I do not confine myself to the precise form, construction, or
arrangement of machinery which I have described; but that which I claim as
my Invention is,-
Firstly, the weaving of shapes of any material suitable for being fitted up
into coats, waistcoats, trowsers, cloaks, and other similar articles of external
clothing for men, and also the weaving of other shapes of any material
suitable for being fitted up into cloaks, mantles, and other external clothing
for women, by the method above described; the essential character of my
Invention consisting in so combining the weft with the warp threads of a loom
for the purposes before mentioned, that more or less work shall be produced at
various parts of the width thereof, according to the form required to be
manufactured.
Secondly, I claim, for the purpose herein-before set forth, the general
arrangement and combination of machinery and apparatus above described,
and particularly the application of the clamp to the warp threads. I also
claim the method described of conveying instructions to the weaver in the
process of weaving the articles before mentioned, the principle of such method
being the use of a diagram or plan having divisions marked thereon cor-
responding to divisions marked upon the temple of the loom, as before
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Jerome Andre Drieu, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty.