Improvements in Machines for Trimming Embroidery.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Apr., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 27th Feb., 1890-Accepted, 29th Mar., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Trimming Embroidery.
I, JOHN CORRY FELL, of the firm of Fell and Wilding, of 1 Queen Victoria street,
in the City of London, Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
(a communication to me from abroad by Benjamin Bernard Friedenwald and Hiram
Washington Friedenwald, both of Baltimore, and State of Maryland, United States of
America to be as follows:-
My invention is a machine for trimming off the plain portions of embroidery
patterns in the line of the embroidery stitching so as to leave the article with the
line of stitching constituting the embroidery on the bottom edge, the plain portion
being entirely removed.
It will be understood that the material for which this machine is designed is made in
different patterns by stitching which makes a line of raised threads above and below,
these raised lines constituting the pattern. These patterns are made of various shapes,
and extend through upon the under and upper surface of the cotton or linen or other
foundation piece, a distance from the edge, and this requires that the lower edge be
trimmed off to correspond to the lower edge of the design figure. This embroidery
when it is thus trimmed is used for trimming and for various purposes and for various
articles of wearing apparel for ladies.
In the drawings:
Figure 1 represents a perspective view of the machine with a portion of the tubular
channel of the cutter broken away to show the interior.
Figure 2 is a section of Figure 1, on line X-X.
Figure 3 is a front elevation of the machine, some of the parts being in section.
Figure 4 is a plan view of the bed of the machine, a portion of the supporting plate
for the cutter being broken away.
Figure 5 is a sectional view on line X-X of Figure 4, but showing a modification
of the adjustable plate for the cutter.
Figure 6 is a detail view in section of the protecting plate for the cutter.
I have represented the bed of the machine at A: at an angle thereto I extend a
plate or support B, secured to the bed and carrying at each end a supporting
pulley or drum C. As a cutting medium, I provide an endless band D, having
a sharpened or cutting edge and this band is supported by the two drums referred
to. The support B, is arranged with its edge in line with the lower peripheries of the
drum and is provided with a groove or slot as shown at a, extending its whole length
between the drums, of such depth and thickness as to contain the cutter and
prevent it from injuring the operator or any person in proximity to the cutting
plate in its movement around the drums or between the same. Connecting the upper
peripheries of the drums is a tube b, through which the cutter passes from one drum
to the other on its return to the cutting point. In order to adjust the tension of the
endless cutter I provide one of the drums C, with a projecting stud c, held to the
plate B, by means of a set screw d, passing through a slot in said projection. By
means of this adjustable connection the tension of the band may be increased or
diminished at will.
The movement of the band is effected by the revolution of the drum at the left hand
of figure 1, which is mounted upon a shafte having a bevel gear upon its end meshing
with a small gear on the shaft f, which in turn is connected by a pulley and belt to
the main shaft g, and this main shaft is driven either by hand or by power as found
most desirable. The shafts described have suitable bearings in the frame of the
machine. I arrange the knife at an angle to the table so as to secure a better
cutting effect by feeding the goods at an angle thereto instead of at right angles.

page_text: As shown in Figure 4, I provide for the exposure of a portion of the cutter by
forming a recess in the upper part of the support B, and in this recess a plate h, is
inserted being guided and supported by its edges fitting in grooves in the adjoining
walls, the front edge of the plate extending to a little in the rear of the line of the
supporting plate B. This front edge of the plate h, is provided with a recess or groove
corresponding to the recess in the edge of the plate B, but as the width of the plate n
is less than the width of the plate B, the depth of the recess is correspondingly less
than that of the plate B, so that as the cutter passes through the recess of the plate h,
its edge is exposed, to an amount corresponding to the difference between the depth
of the recess in the plate h, and that of the recess in the plate B. A covering plate i,
forms the top of the recess in which the cutter moves, and this covering plate is held
in place by rivets.
The plate h, may be adjusted to cover or uncover more or less of the cutter according
to the requirements of the embroidery acted upon by the machine, by a cam k, pro-
vided with a slot which meshes with a pin on the plate h, and by moving the handle 1,
the plate h, may be adjusted as required.
In Figure 5, I show a modification of this plate in which the supporting plate B,
is cut away on its front edge and under part and a plate ', is supported upon a
projecting lip, to which it is adjustably secured by means of screws passing through
slots in the said plate. This plate has a recess or groove in its front edge similar to
the plate and a covering plate, and its operation and effect is precisely the same.
In order to direct the material to the cutter I provide a guide which serves the purpose
of putting a tension on the part of the fabric containing the embroidery: of accurately
guiding the embroidery and of directing the plain portion which is to be trimmed off
to the under surface of the knife. This consists of a spring plate m, which is sup-
ported upon an arm n, secured to the plate B, the said arm bridging the space between
the plate B, and the table A. The spring plate m, is secured to the upper surface of
the front end of the arm n, and is thus raised above the surface of the table in front,
while its rear end is unsupported, and depends towards the surface of the table, and
beneath this spring plate the embroidery passes and thus receives tension therefrom,
the pressure being sufficient to keep it straight and smooth. The arm n, is provided
with a straight edge on its right hand side and as the embroidery is fed in, this edge
bears against the lower ends of the raised embroidery threads and thus feeds the
embroidery in a straight line to the cutter. As the arm n, is supported upon the
plate B, its front edge does not require a support and this is held slightly above
the face of the table just sufficiently to insert beneath it the plain portion of the ground
fabric which is to be trimmed off.
Thus in feeding the fabric the plain portion is passed beneath the arm n, with the
lower ends of the stitching bearing against the side of the arm, and with the face of
the embroidery beneath the plate m; the embroidery then passes to the knife over
the edge of the plate o, which extends out beyond the face of the table at this point
and is provided with an inclined end. The surface of this plate is slightly above the
cutting edge of the knife, and is adjustably held by a set screw so that it may be
adjusted with relation to the cutting edge.
It will be understood that this plate o, is not absolutely necessary but I prefer
to make it a detachable part of the machine, so that it may be replaced when
worn.
The table is made lower on the left hand side of Figure 1, and an inclined portion
connects the one part with the other which thus leaves a space as shown in Figure 3,
leading to the opening beneath the left hand supporting drum, through which the
plain portion of the ground fabric is directed.
As the fabric is fod through to the cutting edge (the cutting having been previously
started by hand) the plain portion is directed down beneath the knife, and the
part containing the embroidery laid upon the same so that the cutting edge lies
across the fabric between the plain portion and the embroidery edge and as it is fed
along the plain portion is cut off on the line of the embroidery following its configura-
tion by reason of the fact that the tension of the cut plain portion drawing upon the

page_text: uncut fabric, is downward, and as the thickness of the embroidery edge prevents it
from being drawn down below the cutting edge of the knife, it is obvious that the
knife will cut close to the edge and will follow it as above described. The eut plain
portion after it passes through the opening in the bed plate is directed between a
milled roller p, and a friction roller q and from thence it passes to a roller or reel
upon which it is wound. The roller p, is mounted upon a shaft which is driven from
the main shaft through gear connections as shown at r and the fabric is kept pressed
against this milled roller and thus fed along automatically by means of the roller ;
which is mounted eccentrically on a rocking shafts, and this roller is pressed against
the roller p, by means of a spring connecting the said shaft as shown at t.
Dated this 27th day of April 1889
FELL & WILDING,
1, Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C., Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Trimming Embroidery.
I, JOHN CORRY FELL, of the firm of Fell & Wilding, of 1 Queen Victoria Street,
in the City of London, Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion (a communication to me from abroad by Benjamin Bernard Friedenwald, and
Hiram Washington Friedenwald, both of Baltimore, and State of Maryland, United
States of America), and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention is a machine for trimming off the plain portions of embroidery
patterns in the line of the embroidery stitching so as to leave the article with the line
of stitching, constituting the embroidery, on the bottom edge, the plain portion being
entirely removed.
It will be understood that the material for which this machine is designed is made
in different patterns by stitching, which makes a line of raised threads above and
below, these raised lines constituting the pattern. These patterns are made of various
shapes, and extend through upon the under and upper surface of the cotton or linen
or other foundation piece, a distance from the edge, and this requires that the lower
edge be trimmed off to correspond to the lower edge of the design figure. This
embroidery when it is thus trimmed is used for trimming, and for various purposes,
and for various articles of wearing apparel for ladies.
In order that my invention may be the better understood I now proceed to describe
the same in relation to the drawings annexed to the provisional specification in
which
Figure 1 represents a perspective view of the machine with a portion of the tubular
channel of the cutter broken away to show the interior.
Figure 2 is a section of Figure 1 on line X-X.
Figure 3 is a front elevation of the machine, some of the parts being in section.
Figure 4 is a plan view of the bed of the machine, a portion of the supporting
plate for the cutter being broken away.
Figure 5 is a sectional view on line X-x of Figure 4, but showing a modification
of the adjustable plate for the cutter.
Figure 6 is a detail view in section of the protecting plate for the cutter.
I have represented the bed of the machine at A: at an angle thereto I extend a
plate or support B, secured to the bed and carrying at each end a supporting pulley
or drum C. As a cutting medium I provide an endless band D having a sharpened
or cutting edge, and this band is supported by the two drums referred to. The
support B is arranged with its edge in line with the lower peripheries of the drums,
and is provided with a groove or slot as shown at a, extending its whole length between
the drums, of such depth and thickness as to contain the cutter and prevent it from
injuring the operator or any person in proximity to the cutting plate in its movement
around the drums or between the same. Connecting the upper peripheries of the
drums is a tube 6 through which the cutter passes from one drum to the other on its

page_text: return to the cutting point. In order to adjust the tension of the endless cutter I
provide one of the drums C, with a projecting stud c held to the plate B by means of
a set screw d, passing through a slot in said projection. By means of this adjustable
connection the tension of the band may be increased or diminished at will.
The movement of the band is effected by the revolution of the drum at the left
hand of figure 1 which is mounted upon a shaft e having a bevel gear upon its end
meshing with a small gear on the shaft f, which in turn is connected by a pulley and
belt to the main shaft g, and this main shaft is driven either by hand or by power as
found most desirable. The shafts described have suitable bearings in the frame of the
machine. I arrange the knife at an angle to the table so as to secure a better cutting
effect by feeding the goods at an angle thereto, instead of at right angles.
As shown in figure 4, I provide for the exposure of a portion of the cutter by
forming a recess in the upper part of the support B, and in this recess a plate his
inserted, being guided and supported by its edges fitting in grooves in the adjoining
walls, the front edge of the piate extending to a little in the rear of the line of the
supporting plate B. This front edge of the plate / is provided with a recess or groove
corresponding to the recess in the edge of the plate B, but as the width of the plate h
is less than the width of the plate B, the depth of the recess is correspondingly less
than that of the plate B so that as the cutter passes through the recess of the plate h.
its edge is exposed, to an amount corresponding to the difference between the depth
of the recess in the plate hand that of the recess in the plate B. A covering plate i
forms the top of the recess in which the cutter moves, and this covering plate is held
in place by rivets.
h
The plate may be adjusted to cover or uncover more or less of the cutter accord-
ing to the requirements of the embroidery acted upon by the machine, by a cam k,
provided with a slot which neshes with a pin on the plate h, and by moving the
handle, the plate h may be adjusted as required.
In figure 5 I show a modification of this plate in which the supporting plate B, is
cut away on its front edge and under part, and a plate 1, is supported upon a
projecting lip Z to which it is adjustably secured by means of screws passing through
slots in the said plate. This plate has a recess or groove in its front edge similar to
the plate and a covering plate, and its operation and effect is precisely the same.
In order to direct the material to the cutter I provide a guide which serves the
purpose of putting a tension on the part of the fabric containing the embroidery: of
accurately guiding the embroidery and of directing the plain portion which is to be
trimmed off to the under surface of the knife. This consists of a spring plate m
which is supported upon an arin n secured to the plate B, the said arm bridging the
space between the plate B and the table A. The spring plate m is secured to the
upper surface of the front end of the arm n and is thus raised above the surface of
the table in front, while its rear end is unsupported, and depends towards the surface
of the table, and beneath this spring plate the embroidery passes and thus receives
tension therefrom, the pressure being sufficient to keep it straight and smooth. The
arm n is provided with a straight edge on its right hand side and as the embroidery
is fed in, this edge bears against the lower ends of the raised embroidery threads and
thus feeds the embroidery in a straight line to the cutter. As the arm n is supported
upon the plate B, its front edge does not require a support and this is held slightly
above the face of the table just sufficiently to insert beneath it the plain portion of the
ground fabric which is to be trimmed off.
Thus in feeding the fabric the plain portion is passed beneath the arm n with the
lower ends of the stitching bearing against the side of the arm, and with the face of
the embroidery beneath the plate m; the embroidery then passes to the knife over the
edge of the plate o which extends out beyond the face of the table at this point and is
provided with an inclined end. The surface of this plate is slightly above the cutting
edge of the knife, and is adjustably held by a set screw so that it may be adjusted
with relation to the cutting edge.
It will be understood that this plate o is not absolutely necessary but I prefer to
make it a detachable part of the machine, so that it may be replaced when worn.

page_text: The table is made lower on the left hand side of Figure 1, and an inclined portion
connects the one part with the other which thus leaves a space as shown in figure 3,
leading to the opening beneath the left hand supporting drum through which the plain
portion of the ground fabric is directed.
As the fabric is fed through to the cutting edge (the cutting having been previously
started by hand) the plain portion is directed down beneath the knife, and the part
containing the embroidery laid upon the same so that the cutting edges lies across the
fabric between the plain portion and the embroidery edge, and as it is fed along, the plain
portion is cut off on the line of the embroidery, following its configuration by reason
of the fact that the tension of the cut plain portion drawing upon the uncut fabric,
downward, and as the thickness of the embroidery edge prevents it from being drawn
down below the cutting edge of the knife, it is obvious that the knife will cut close to
the edge and will follow it as above described. The cut plain portion, after it passes
through the opening in the bed plate, is directed between a milled roller p, and a
friction roller q, and from thence it passes to a roller or reel upon which it is wound.
The roller pis mounted upon a shaft which is driven from the main shaft through gear
connections as shown at and the fabric is kept pressed against this milled roller and
thus fed along automatically by means of the roller q which is mounted eccentrically
on a rocking shaft s, and this roller is pressed against the roller p, by means of a spring
connecting the. said shaft as shown at t.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is :-
:-
1st. The endless band running over drums in combination with the supports B having
a groove in line with the peripheries of the drums to receive the cutting band.
2nd. In addition to the above the tube for receiving the cutting band extending
between the drum peripheries.
3rd. The cutting band passing through the grooved support B, a guide for the
material, and an adjustable plate for the band, whereby the band may be exposed
more or less.
4th. The adjustable plate constructed with a groove of less depth than the width of
the band.
5th. The means for adjusting one of the drums combined with the tube for extending
between the peripheries of the drums.
6th. In the described mechanism the guide for the material consisting of the bar n
and the pressure plate m supported thereby, having its forward end raised and its
other end depressed.
7th. In the described machine guiding and cutting means for the material,
feed rollers for drawing upon the cut material consisting of the revolving roll p,
and the roll carried eccentrically, upon a rock shaft and bearing upon the
roll p.
Sth. The drums and endless band and the grooved support B provided with a recess
at one point to expose the cutting edge.
Dated this 27th day of February 1890.
FELL & WILDING,
1, Queen Victoria Street, E.C., Agents for the Applicant.