IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES, UNDER SHIRTS, DRAWERS, SOCKS, STOCKINGS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF CLOTHING WHICH ARE USUALLY MADE FROM KNITTED OR LOOPED FABRICS
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Archibald Turner, of Leicester, Elastic Fabric
Manufacturer, and William Hemsley, of Melbourne, in the County of
Derby, Silk Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES, UNDER SHIRTS, DRAWERS, SOCKS, STOCKINGS, AND
OTHER ARTICLES OF CLOTHING WHICH ARE USUALLY MADE FROM KNITTED OR
LOOPED FABRICS."
Sealed the 8th February 1868, and dated the 12th August 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Archibald Turner and
William Hemsley at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 12th August 1867.
We, ARCHIBALD TURNER, of Leicester, Elastic Fabric Manufacturer, and
WILLIAM HEMSLEY, of Melbourne, in the County of Derby, Silk Manu-
facturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES, UNDER SHIRTS, DRAWERS, SOCKS, STOCKINGS,
AND OTHER ARTICLES OF CLOTHING WHICH ARE USUALLY MADE FROM KNITTED OR
LOOPED FABRICS," to-be-as-follows::--
In the manufacture of Clozes cooks strokings undanghirts and such lik

page_text: analogous material, the fabric of which such articles are made has heretofore
been usually a knitted or looped fabric, in order to obtain the required amount
of elasticity which it has been generally supposed was not obtainable with a
woven fabric.
The object of the present Invention is to adapt and apply a woven fabric
for manufacturing the articles of clothing (above mentioned), and this is
effected in such a manner that the requisite amount of elasticity. may be
obtained in a woven fabric which is of a less costly character to manufacture
than the knitted or looped fabrics which have heretofore been employed for
such purposes. Moreover, if an elastic fabric of light texture, as for summer
clothing, be required to be made in a knitting or looped fabric machine, it is
absolutely necessary to employ in the manufacture of such knitted or looped
fabric yarns of very fine quality and consequently of expensive character
whereas by the employment of a woven fabric, as proposed by the present,
Invention, an elastic fabric of a finer texture may be produced from a coarser
and consequently less expensive yarn than that required in the manufacture
of knitted or looped fabrics. These objects may be effected in various ways,
either by manufacturing the woven fabric specially for the purpose, or by
applying and adapting in a peculiar manner a fabric woven in the ordinary
way.
It is well known that in woven fabrics the warp runs longitudinally in
parallel lines from end to end of the fabric while the weft runs across at
right angles to the warp, whereas in fabrics made in á braiding machine
the threads run in a diagonal direction, and in knitted or looped fabrics
elasticity is obtained by forming the threads into loops. It will be easily
understood that in woven fabrics there is little or no elasticity in the direction
of either the warp or the weft, but if the fabric be pulled in a diagonal
direction, say at an angle of 45° to the warp or weft so as to bring the threads
into the position they would occupy in a fabric made in a braiding machine, a
very considerable amount of elasticity will be found to exist.
Having discovered that woven fabrics if cut diagonally possess a considerable
amount of elasticity, and finding that woven fabrics so treated are when
stretched diagonally applicable to the manufacture of the articles of clothing
above-mentioned, we have proceeded to apply this discovery practically to
effect the intended purpose. To this end we prefer to weave a twilled fabric
in a tubular form, and when produced we cut up this tube in a helical
direction from end to end, as indicated by the Diagram, Fig. 1. By this
meaus we obtain a long length of woven fabric of any desired width
(according to the article. intended to be made therefrom), but with the warp

page_text: arranged in the same manner as in a piece of braided fabric. It will be
seen that although the threads are arranged diagonally the interstices between
them are rectangular, but before cutting up the fabric into gloves or other
articles it should be placed on a stretching frame and extended longitudinally,
so as to elongate these interstices and bring them into a diamond shape or
lozenge form thus
as shewn in Fig. 3. Now if we proceed to
cut the article intended to be made (say a glove for instance) out of the piece
of woven fabric, as indicated in Fig. 3, it will be seen that all the threads,
both warp and weft, will be arranged diagonally across the glove, which may
therefore be stretched or extended both transversely and longitudinally, and
will thus be found to possess the amount of elasticity required for an article of
this description.
Instead of weaving the fabric in a tubular form and then cutting it up
helically in the manner just described, we sometimes take a wide piece of'
twilled fabric woven in the ordinary manner, and we stretch it on a frame so
as to convert the rectangular interstices between the threads into a diamond
or lozenge shape, as in the former instance; this is effected by giving to the
stretching bars which carry the tenter hooks a peculiar compound motion,
which consists of an advancing motion on one side of the machine in com-
bination with a motion inwards on the other side of the machine, so that the
interstices between the threads will be elongated and converted from a
as snew
4.
Another mode of producing the lozenge form of interstice between the warp
and weft threads consists in throwing in the weft thread in a diagonal
direction at about an angle of 45° instead of at rightangles, as is usually the
The threads in a fabric so woven will be arranged as in Fig. 4, and
the fabric may afterwards be prepared and stretched on a stretching frame as
in the other instances.
Gloves and other articles made of a woven fabric treated, prepared, and.

page_text: applied in either of the manners above set forth may be made of very light
texture suitable for summer wear, but for winter goods we prefer the fabric to
be made in a somewhat different manner. To this end the second part of the
Invention relates to the production of a novel and warm fabric applicable to
the manufacture of gloves and other articles of clothing for winter use. The
improvement consists in making such fabric with a plush lining or piled
surface on one side, which is produced by weaving a kind of compound or
double fabric by means of two shuttles carrying different kinds of weft, one
being intended to produce the outside face in connection with the warp, and
the other the inside lining of the fabric, also in connection with the warp.
When this compound or double fabric has been woven the surface which is
to form the inside of the glove or other article may be teazled or carded in
order to draw out the fibres and form a plush or warm surface.
We would here remark, that in order to make lined gloves from textile
fabrics it has heretofore been customary to employ two distinct and separate
fabrics, one to form the outside of the article and the other the inside or.
lining; each of these fabrics was cut out separately, thereby involving double
labour, and the two forms were then stitched together. Great difficulty has
been experienced in carrying out this operation in a proper manner, and
there has therefore been great risk of producing imperfect goods. It will be
obvious that all these objections and difficulties will be avoided by making a
compound or double fabric as proposed, and stamping or cutting out the form
of the article at one blow and stitching it up in the ordinary manner.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Archibald Turner and William Hemsley in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 12th February 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, ARCHIBALD
TURNER, of Leicester, Elastic Fabric Manufacturer, and WILLIAM HEMSLEY,
of Melbourne, in the County of Derby, Silk Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirty-first year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
Archibald Turner and William Hemsley, Her special licence that we, the said
Archibald Turner and William Hemsley, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as we, the said Archibald Turner and William Hemsley,

page_text: our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the.term
therein expressed,should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the. United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF GLOVES, UNDER SHIRTS, DRAWERS, SOCKS. STOCKINGS, AND OTHER
ARTICLES OF CLOTHING WHICH ARE USUALLY MADE FROM KNITTED OR LOOPED
FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Archibald
Turner and William Hensley, our executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under our, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Archibald Turner, on behalf of myself
and of the said William Hemsley, do hereby declare the nature of our said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be par-
ticularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement, reference
being had to the Drawing hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures
marked thereon (that is to say):-
In the manufacture of gloves, socks, stockings, under shirts, and such like
articles from textile substances such as wool, silk, cotton, flax, or other
analogous material, the fabric of which such articles are made has heretofore
been usually a knitted or looped fabric, in order to obtain the required amount
of elasticity which it has been generally supposed was not obtainable with a
woven fabric.
The object of the present Invention is to adapt and apply a woven fabric
for manufacturing the articles of-clothing (above mentioned), and this is
effected in such a manner that the requisite amount of elasticity may be
obtained in a woven fabric which is of a less costly character to manufacture
than the knitted or looped fabrics which have heretofore been employed for
such purposes. Moreover, if an elastic fabric of light texture, as for summer
clothing, be required to be made in a. knitting or looped fabric machine it is
absolutely necessary to employ in the manufacture of such kuitted or looped
fabric yarns of very
fiue quality and consequently of expensive character,
whereas by the employment of a woven fabric as proposed by the present
Invention-an elastic fabric of a finer texture may be produced from a coarser
and consequently less expensive yarn than that required in the manufacture of
kuitted or looped fabrics. These objects may be effected iu various ways,

page_text: either by manufacturing the woven fabric specially for the purpose or by
applying and adapting in a peculiar manner a fabric woven in the ordinary
way.
It is well known that in woven fabrics the warp runs longitudinally in
parallel lines from end to end of the fabric, while the weft runs across at right
angles to the warp, whereas in fabrics made in a braiding machine the
threads run in a diagonal direction, and in knitted or looped fabrics elasticity
is obtained by forming the threads into loops. It will be easily be understood
that in woven fabrics there is little or no elasticity in the direction of either
the warp or the weft, but if the fabric be pulled in a diagonal direction, say at
an angle of forty-five degrees to the warp or weft, so as to bring the threads
into the position they would occupy in a fabric made in a braiding machine, a
very considerable amount of elasticity will be found to exist.
Having discovered that woven fabrics if cutdiagonallypossess a considerable
amountofelasticity, andfinding thatwoven fabrics so treatedare whenstretched
diagonally applicable to the manufacture of the articles of clothing above
mentioned, we have proceeded to apply this discovery practically to effect the
intended purpose. To this end we prefer to weave a twilled fabric in a
tubular form, and when produced we cut up this tube in a helical direction
from end to end, as shewn in the accompanying Drawing at Fig. 1, which
represents a piece of tubular fabric woven in an ordinary power loom in
which two sets of warp threads are employed, one to form the top side of the
tube and the other the under side of the tube. The weft is thrown in. by one
shuttle, which passes alternately through the two sheds, and thus connects
then together at the edges; in other words the shuttle with the weft is
thrown in one direction through the top shed and then returned in the opposite
direction through the bottom shed, then again through the top shed and back
through the bottom shed, and so on until the whole piece is woven into the
form of a flat tube, as shewn at Fig. 2. In weaving a tubular fabric, such as
that shewn at Figures 1 and 2, we have found it necessary to keep the work
or cloth stretched or extended transversely to correspond with accuracy to the
width of the warp in the reed; to this end we insert in the tube a thin strip
of wood or other suitable material a, Fig. 2, which acts as a self-acting temple
and will keep the woven part extended accurately to the proper width while
the beat up takes place. Fig. 3 represents the bar a in section, a portion of
the cloth and warp with the inner extending bar or temple a indicated by
dots is shewn at Fig 4. By cutting up the woven tube in a helical direction,
as indicated by the black and dotted lines in Fig. 1, we obtain a long length
of woven fabric of any desired width, according to the article intended to be

page_text: made therefrom, but with the warp and weft threads or yarns of which the
fabric is composed running diagonally across the piece, as shewn at Fig. 5,
which represents a piece of the diagonally cut cloth laid out flat, in which it
will be seen that the threads are arranged in the same manner as in a piece
of fabric made in a braiding machine, that is diagonally. Although the
threads are thus arranged diagonally it will be seen that the interstices
between them are rectangular in form, but before cutting up the fabric into
gloves or other articles it should be placed ona stretching frame and extended
longitudinally so as to elongate these interstices and bring them into a
diamond shape or lozenge form, as shewn in Fig. 6, which represents a piece
of cloth or fabric such as that shewn at Fig. 5 stretched longitudinally.
Now, if we proceed to cut the article intended to be made (say a glove for
instance) out of the piece of woven fabric, such as that shewn at Fig. 6, it
will be seen that all the threads, both warp and weft, will be arranged
diagonally across the glove, as shewn in the Diagram Fig. 7. A glove made
in such a manner may therefore be stretched or extended both transversely
and longitudinally, and will thus be found to possess the amount of elasticity
required for an article of this description. Instead of weaving the fabric in a
tubular form, and then cutting it up helically in the manner just described, we
sometimes take a wide piece of twilled or other fabric woven in the ordinary
manner, and we stretch it on a frame so as to convert the rectangular
interstices between the threads into a diamond or lozenge shape, as in the
former instance. The mode of effecting this object will be understood by
reference to Fig. 8, and consists in giving to the stretching bars b, b, (on the
tenter hooks of which the fabric is placed) a peculiar compound motion,
which consists of an advancing motion on one side of the machine in com-
bination with a motion inwards on the other side of the machine, or the two
bars b, b, may have imparted to them a longitudinal motion in opposite
directions, as indicated by the arrows in Fig. S, so that the fabric will be
reduced in width as indicated by the dotted lines, and thereby the interstices
between the threads will be elongated and converted from a rectangular.form
into a Jozenge or diamond shape, ás shewn in Fig. 8.
Auother mode of producing the lozenge form of interstice between thewarp
and weft threads consists in throwing in the weft thread in a diagonal direction
at about an angle of forty-five degrees instead of at right angles as is usually
the case. Fig. 9 is a diagram representing part of a loom arranged to weave
diagonally-is-the-slay or batten; d, the crank-shaft-which-communicates
motion to the stay by means of the connecting rods d', d. The breast-beam
or table is seen at e, and the work beam at f. The threads in a fabric so

page_text: woven will be arranged, as in Fig. 4, and the fabric may afterwards be
prepared and stretched on a stretching frame as in the other instances.
Gloves and other articles made of a woven fabric treated, prepared, and
applied in either of the manners above set forth may be made of very light
texture suitable for summer wear, but for winter goods we prefer the fabric
to be made in a somewhat different manner. To this end the second part of
the Invention relates to the production of a novel and warm fabric applicable to
the manufacture of gloves and other articles of clothing for winter use. The
improvement consists in making such fabric with a plush lining or piled
surface on one side, which is produced by weaving a kind of compound or
double fabric by means of two shuttles carrying different kinds of weft, one
being intended to produce the outside face in connection with the warp and
the other the inside lining of the fabric, also in connection with the warp,
which is capable of being formed into a double shed for the purpose as in
carpet weaving, in which a top shed is made to receive the terry wires
and a bottom shed to receive the linen weft, whereby the whole fabric is
bound together. When this compound or double fabric has been woven the
surface which is to form the inside of the glove or other article may be
teazled or carded in order to draw out the fibres and form a plush or warm
surface. ...
.
We would here remark that in order to make lined gloves from textile
fabrics it has heretofore been customary to employ two distinct and séparate
fabrics, one to form the outside of the article and the other the inside or
lining. Each of these fabrics was cut out separately, thereby involving double
labor, and the two-forms were then stitched together. Great difficulty has
been experienced in carrying out this operation in a proper manner, and there
has therefore been great risk of producing imperfect. goods. It will be
obvious that all these objections and difficulties will be avoided by making a
compound or double fabric as proposed, and stamping or cutting out the form
of the article at one blow and stitching it up in the ordinary manner.
Having now described our Invention of "Improvements in the Manu-
factureof Gloves, Under Shirts, Drawers, Socks, Stockings, and other Articles
of Clothing which are usually made from Knitted or Looped Fabrics, and
having explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, we claim as
the Invention secured to us by Letters Patent as aforesaid,-
First. Producing articles of clothing such as those above mentioned from
woven fabrics in the manner herein set forth instead of from knitted or looped
fabrics as has heretofore been the case.
We claim particularly producing the articles above mentioned with the

page_text: required degree of elasticity by cutting up a woven fabric diagonally or (if
from a tubular fabric) helically, so as to cause the warp and weft threads to
run in diagonal directions across the article as in fabrics made in braiding
machinery.
We also claim the application to the purposes above mentioned of a
woven fabric produced by introducing the weft at an angle of forty-five
degrees or nearly so to the warp.
Lastly, we claim manufacturing lined articles of clothing such as those
above mentioned suitable for winter wear by the use of a double or compound
fabric produced by dividing the warp into two sheds,iuto one of which a light
weft to form a face is introduced, while into the other a thicker weft to form
the plush surface or lining is introduced, as herein set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Archibald Turner, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Eleventh day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
ARCHIBALD TURNER. (L.S.)