Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Nov., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 11th July, 1891-Accepted, 26th Sept., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, JULIUS GUTMANN of Alexanderstr. Berlin, in the German Empire, Manu-
facturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to mechanisms in button hole sewing machines by means
of which the cloth or fabric is carried forwards, sideways and backwards whilst the
needle oscillates or moves in a straight line to and fro and by which the machine is
automatically arrested immediately upon the last stitch of a button hole being
completed.
The cloth carrier is operated from a horizontal cam placed underneath the
machine. This cam is slowly turned by ratchet mechanism with which it is in
connection and the ratchet lever of which is worked by a vertical cam mounted on
a shaft set in motion through toothed wheels by the horizontal driving shaft. A
groove in the horizontal cam works a lever in connection with the cloth carrier so
as to communicate to this a forward or backward motion by jerks. The lateral
displacement of the cloth carrier is brought about by a lever which at one end is
connected thereto and at the other end bears against the periphery of the horizontal
cam. The tooth of the ratchet lever is raised out of the ratchet wheel by a pin
fixed in the horizontal cam coming against a tappet or catch bolt at the same time
throwing through jointed levers the driving band on to a loose pulley and operating
a brake to arrest the machine.
The stroke of the ratchet lever may be adjusted by means of an excentric fitted
to a convenient part of the machine and set by hand.
The second or vertical cam shaft carries a cam or excentric for regulating the
pendulous motion of the needle rod.
Dated this 15th day of November 1890.
CAPITAINE & VON HERTLING,
89, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
1, JULIUS GUTMANN of Alexanderstr. Berlin, in the German Empire, Manu-
facturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention relates to mechanisms in button hole sewing machines by means
of which the cloth or fabric is carried forwards, sideways and backwards whilst the
needle oscillates or moves in a straight line to and fro, and by which the machine is
automatically arrested immediately upon the last stitch of a button hole being
completed.
In the accompanying drawing
Fig. 1 is a part sectional side elevation of a sewing machine provided with the
mechanisms of this invention.
Fig. 1 a view of the thread stretching disc.
Fig. 2 a bottom view of the mechanisms located in the sewing table plate.
Fig. 3 a top view of the sewing table plate.
Figs. 4 and 5 cross sections through the sewing table plate with parts in con-
nection therewith.

page_text: Fig. 6 a cross section through the back end of the machine.
Fig. 7 a part sectional side elevation of the back end of the machine as seen
from the side opposite to that shewn in Fig. 1.
Figs. 8, 9, and 10 are views of details.
Fig. 11 shews a portion of a machine to which the invention has been applied in
a modified form.
Fig. 12 a bottom view thereof.
Figs. 13 and 14 detail views shewing the means for working the oscillating or
straight sliding needle rod.
1 is the driving spindle. 2 excentric thereon operating forked lever 3 turning on
bolt 4 fixed in the machine frame. Said lever 3 extends downwards underneath the
sewing table plate where it bears by its end against rod 5. This is fixed in slide
rod 7 which it carries to and fro in standards 8 when operated from forked lever 3.
9 is a ratchet lever turning on pin 10 fixed in slide rod 7. It has a ratchet tooth 11
for engaging in ratchet wheel 12. So soon as slide rod 7 performs a to and fro
movement, tooth 11 engages in ratchet wheel 12 and moves this round to the extent
In this way
of one or more teeth according to the length of stitch required.
ratchet wheel 12 is turned from spindle 1 through excentric 2, lever 3 and slide
rod 7. Ratchet wheel 12 which is located underneath the sewing table plate gives
to the fabric in which button holes are to be made a gradual forward and backward
movement and after each half revolution a lateral displacement. For this purpose
it is provided with an upper extension having an inner cam groove 13 and external
cam surface 14, the former serving to give a forward and backward movement to
the fabric and the latter the lateral displacement. Fixed to one end of lever 14ª
there is a pin 15 which takes into cam groove 13 so that when ratchet wheel 12 is
turned backward lever 14" is gradually moved forward and back again. Lever 14*
turning on fixed pin 16 at one end, is connected to rod 15º. 17 is a slotted lever
adjustable to different positions on and relatively to lever 14" by means of a screw
stud and wing nut. The same bolt 14' serves for connecting rod 15" and lever 17
to lever 14. This peculiar kind of connection has for object to make the stroke
of rod 15 capable of adjustment to the length of the button hole with the same
turn of ratchet wheel 12, as the nearer the connecting point of rod 15" with slotted
lever 17 is brought to oscillating point 16 so much the shorter will be the lever
arm operating rod 15ª and the stroke of this latter, therefore when the length of
the button hole is to be lessened, slotted lever 17 is drawn outwards and set so as to
place rod 15ª nearer oscillating point 16. Rod 15ª carries a stud or pin u which
projects through slot 19 formed in the sewing table plate and is fixed to the fabric
holder thus communicating the desired movement to the same. The lateral dis-
placement of the fabric is effected from cam 14 of ratchet wheel 12 through double
lever 21 which is moved sideways and is thereby turned right and left on its
pivot 20. Lever 21 carries at its outer end a bolt or study which projects through
slot 22 in sewing table plate and is fixed to the fabric frame above. Bracket 24
serves to govern or limit the stroke of bolt or stud q. Cam 14 is so formed that
the lateral displacement of the fabric takes place after each half revolution of
ratchet wheel 12 and so that when one half of the ratchet wheel has operated the
forward movement of the fabric to the extent of the length of the button hole to
be sewn, the fabric is displaced laterally to the extent of the width of the button
hole and then after the other half of ratchet wheel 12 has operated the backward
movement of the fabric to the extent of the length of the button hole, the fabric
is again displaced to the other side. In order to sew mechanically button holes
having an eyelet at one end a cam part of the form shewn in Fig. 9 is fixed to
ratchet wheel 12 in the place of that shewn in Fig. 8, consequently at the com-
mencement of the sewing, double lever 21 is caused to have a longer lateral stroke,
and when it has passed the middle a like stroke on the other side, as during this
movement of lever 21 the fabric is carried backwards, forwards and after passing
the middle, backwards, there is formed a circular line of sewing from the end of
the longer button hole, that is to say a sewn eyelet corresponding to the button

page_text: 5
is arrested at the last stitch.
It is further necessary to be able to stop the machine quickly at any time durin
the sewing, owing to the fracture of the thread or for other reasons, for whic
purpose on spindle 1 there is a loose driving pulley 25 and pressed against th
same by spring 27 a sliding sleeve 26 fitted with a stud 28 by which it may engag
loose driving pulley 25 and be carried round with it. The sleeve 26 has also a
curved groove 29 so formed that a stud 30 when held in a fixed position will operate
its displacement inwards whilst it rotates, such rotation being simultaneous with
10 that of spindle I if the said sleeve is coupled with loose pulley 25. When therefore
sleeve 26 is so coupled and rotating with loose pulley 25 and stud 30 held fixed the
sleeve will be displaced inwards along spindle 1, the stud 28 disengaging from
loose pulley 25 and this latter rotating loose on spindle 1. In order to fix in one
position the stud 30 which when the machine is working is carried to and fro in
groove 29, use is made of double lever 31 turning on pin 32 in conjunction with
double lever 33 turning on pin 35, one end of lever 33 taking against one end 34 of
lever 31 and thus preventing lever 31 from making a stroke. Consequently the machine
is stopped or rather the driving pulley 25 released by holding lever 31 in the fixed
position this being done the moment the sewing of a button hole is completed.
For this purpose at one end of lever 33 there is jointed a rod 36 which is drawn
downwards by spring 37 and under which lies slide bar 38 so long as the machine
is working. It is so placed when the machine is started by lever 33 being pressed
down at its outer end so that rod 36 is moved upwards and slide bar 38 springs
underneath this rod.
lug 39 on ratchet wheel 12 (Fig. 2) drawing forward rod 40 to which slide bar 38
It is moved on one side upon the stopping of the machine by
is connected. Spring 41 acts in the contrary direction. In this way therefore
the machine is brought to a standstill from lug 39 by slide bar 38 underneath
od 36 being removed therefrom when the latter goes downward operating lever 33
o as to fix lever 31 and stud 30 in one position and draw sleeve 26 away from
riving pulley 25. As lng 39 is so located on ratchet wheel 12 that it bears
gainst rod 40 in the moment that a button hole is finished the machine is thrown
t of work so soon as the last stitch of a button hole has been made. In order to
sengage ratchet tooth 11 from the teeth of ratchet wheel 12 a stud or lug 47 is
red in ratchet lever 9 against which, lever 42 turning on pivot 43 bears.
ever 44 actuated by spring 45 acts against lever 42 so that in the normal position
e ratchet tooth 11 is engaged with the teeth of ratchet wheel 12. As rod 46
connected to lever 42 the ratchet tooth may be disengaged from the ratchet
eel by hand direct from rod 46 as rod 46 pushes lever 42 to one side the latter
rying with it stud or lug 47 fixed in ratchet lever 9.
has been sewn all round the working of the machi
2 is a lever bearing against stud 48 on slide bar 38. Its object is to allow of
e bar 38 also being actuated from rod 46 and of the machine being thereby
wn out of work.
ombined with the mechanism for stopping the machine there is an automatic
onnection of the thread stretcher. Rod 45ª (Fig. 1) reaches from the thread
cher to sleeve 26 and through pin 52 removes stretching disc or pulley 51 from
50 against which it is normally pressed by spring 49. This is done upon
e 26 sliding inwards.
diately on the stoppage of the machine.
By this means the stretching of the thread ceases
tead of the aforesaid means for stopping the machine, that shewn in
11 and 12 may be employed. It is also actuated from a lug 39 on ratchet
12 as in the former case or by operating handle 55.
ne the driving band 65 is thrown on to loose pulley 56 (Fig. 11) and brake
simultaneously applied to the fly wheel. 59 is a catch part turning on
In this modified
58 fixed in the machine frame. By its point 60 it seizes rod 61 and so
the stoppage of the whole of the driving mechanism of the machine including
chet lever. Rod 61 which is pressed by spiral spring 62 in the direction
wy is jointed to double lever 63 (Fig. 11) turning

page_text: Thus
has a slot at its upper end through which passes driving band 65. When rod 61
is forced forwards by spring 62, double lever 63 and with it driving band 65 is
moved in the reverse direction thereby throwing the latter from the driving pulley
on to the loose pulley. On lever 63 there is also a fork 66 (Fig. 114) carrying a
guide or friction roller 67 against which latter the inclined plane 69 of the
oscillating brake arm 57 is drawn and pressed. When lever 63 strikes forward as
before stated the brake arm 57 will be pressed against the fly wheel.
lever 63 on the one hand throws the driving band on to the loose pulley and on
the other hand applies a brake to the fly wheel. The disconnection of ratchet
tooth 11 from ratchet wheel 12 is effected through bell crank lever 71 turning on
pivot 70 which lever 71 is turned by rod 61. In this turning movement a stud or
pin 72 bears against ratchet lever 9 and through it removes the ratchet tooth from
wheel 12. Consequently it is by the release of the catch part 59, which may be
done either by hand or from lag 39, that the driving band is thrown on to the
loose pulley, the brake applied to the fly wheel and the ratchet tooth removed
from the ratchet wheel. In this modified machine the mechanism for driving the
ratchet wheel is also different in that the ratchet lever 9 is mounted on a slide
bar 73 which is moved to and fro from curved cam surface 75 (Fig. 11) through
lever 74 and performs a stroke at every revolution of spindle 76, this being
driven from driving spindle 1 through toothed wheels 77, 78. Oscillating or
pendulous motion is communicated to the needle rod by excentric 79 (Fig. 13)
fixed on the front end of spindle 76 which moves pendulum 80 to and fro whilst
this latter takes with it in its movement the end cover 82 suspended on pivot 81
and carrying the needle rod. The connection between cover 82 and pendulum 80
is by a stud or pin 83.
A frame (Fig. 3) is carried between two guides y fixed on the table and capable
of lateral sliding movement between said bars which movement is communicated
from bolt or pin q projecting through the sewing table plate and operated by
lever 21 (Figs. 2 and 3). Frame is furnished with guide grooves in which a
plate w is moved forwards and backwards by stud u which projects through slot 19
in the sewing table plate on the under side of which it is connected to rod 15*
(Fig. 2). The fabric to be sewn is firmly held against plate w by means of a
spring clamp t (Figs. 1 and 3). A bracket 53 (Fig. 3) is fixed to plate w and has
for object to press down the fabric.
Whilst the needle makes the pendulous or oscillating motion the plate w is moved
forward little by little by stud which as before described is operated from cam
groove 13 of ratchet wheel 12. When the button hole has been sewn on one side
its full length, the frame comes into action being by bolt or pin q moved laterally
the width of the button hole. The plate w now begins to move backward at
short intervals so that the as yet unsewn edge of the button hole is finished. The
movement of this latter mechanism for transporting the fabric is derived from the
mechanisms described at the beginning of the Specification which are driven from
spindle 1.
For the application of this invention it is not necessary that sewing machines
such as shewn in the drawings should be used but it may be applied to other
machines by which button holes are sewn and "bar" stitched.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :
1. A button hole sewing machine with pendulous or straight moving needle, in
which after each stitch, the fabric holder is, by means of cams 13 or 14 displaced
parallel in the direction of the button hole and also for sewing "bar" stitches and
the stitches of the second edge of the button hole which cams are actuated from
a ratchet wheel common to both, the one of the cams being capable of alteration
by removable cam parts for the purpose of forming eyelet seams to button holes
substantially as described and shewn.

page_text: throwing out of gear the common driving mechanism the disconnection being
machine of the kind referred to, a means for disconnecting or
operated by a lug or stud 39 or its equivalent on ratchet wheel 12 in the moment
that a button hole is completed or at any other time, in the manner that lug 39
5 acts through slide bar 38 to disconnect driving pulley 25, or that the disconnection
is effected by hand lever 46 through slide bar 38 the ratchet tooth being at the
same time withdrawn from the ratchet wheel, substantially as described and
shewn.
3. In a sewing machine of the kind referred to, the disconnecting arrangement
in which the driving band is thrown on to the loose pulley and a brake simul-
taneously applied to the fly wheel, by lug 39 on ratchet wheel 12 actuating either
directly or indirectly a lever which displaces the driving band and releases the
fly wheel brake substantially as described with reference to Figs. 11, 11ª, 12, 14, of
the drawings.
4. In a sewing machine of the kind referred to the arrangement of cam 75 in
combination with double lever 74 for reciprocating ratchet tooth 11 for the purpose
of rotating ratchet wheel 12, substantially as described with reference to Figs. 11,
12, 14 of the drawings.
5. In a sewing machine of the kind referred to the means for operating the
disconnection or throwing out of work of the thread stretcher by which disc 51 is
separated from disc 50 (between which discs the thread is firmly held) in the
nanner that upon operating the disconnection referred to in Claim 2 of the driving
ulley, a rod 45 is displaced so as to press against a pin or stud on disc 51 and
eparate it from disc 50, substantially as described with reference to Figs. 1, 1ª of
e drawings.
Dated this 11th day of July 1891.
APITAINE & VON HERTLING,
89, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents for the Anali