An Improved Method of and Machine for Producing Ornamental Stitches.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 25th Oct., 1890-Accepted, 24th Jan., 1891
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Method of and Machine for Producing Ornamental
Stitches.
"
We ERNST ALBAN AURICH and ERNST THEODOR LÄSSIG both of Hartmannsdorf
hear hemnitz, Saxony, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of our invention
for "AN INPROVED METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR PRODUCING ORNAMENTAL STITCHES
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement and accompanying drawings :-
Our said invention relates to a process for the production of ornamental stitches as
for example for the gores of gloves by the crossing of two ordinary chain stitches and
to means for putting into practice the said process.
In order that our said invention may be more clearly understood we will at once
proceed to describe the same with reference to the accompanying drawings in all the
figures of which the same letters refer to the same parts.
In the said drawings
Fig. 1 is an end view partly in section of a sewing machine constructed for the
purpose of carrying my said invention into practice.
Fig. 2 is a front or side elevation with a portion of the base of the machine removed
in order to show more clearly the inner mechanism.
Fig. 3 is a plan as seen from under the machine.
Fig. 4 is a plan of the feeder.
0
Figures 5 and 12 represent two styles of stitches produced according to our said
invention.
The remaining figures show the relative positions of certain parts during the pro-
duction of crossed chain stitches.
The needle bar may be actuated in the usual manner as for example by a lever A
and an excentric B on the driving shaft as is well understood. To the needle bar C
we attach two needles ab and immediately thereunder we provide two loopers c d
which are secured to the slide rods f and g respectively. Each of the rods is free
either to move longitudinally or to rotate in the bearings D D so that the loopers c d
may move independently of each other.
The movements of the loopers are produced by two cams h and i against each of
which bear two rollers f¹ƒ and g 92 carried by the brackets f³ and g³. The latter
are secured to the slide rods f and y respectively. Springs m m and n n are provided
for the purpose of keeping the rollers 12 and 91 92 against the outer and lateral
surfaces of the cams. The feeder which is actuated and governed by the
excentrics p q is formed so as to partly surround the needle hole as shown in Fig. 4.
Fig. 5 illustrates the form of crossed chain stitch as seen from beneath which is
produced by the operation of the parts herein before described.
At the moment the needles enter the fabric the loopers occupy the position shown
in Fig. 9 and they present the loops in such a manner to the needles that the latter
must pass through the loops in order to connect them to the next stitch. Each looper
then moves in a curved path indicated by arrows and frees itself from the loop so that
by the time the needles have accomplished about one half of their downward stroke
the loopers have come to occupy the positions shown in full lines in Fig. 10. The
dotted lines-at the sides of Fig. 10 indicate the positions of the loopers when the
needles are at the end of their downward stroke. The needles then rise and each
needle forms as is well understood a loop ay into which the loopers c d enter as shown
in Fig. 11. The needles then rise clear of the fabric which is being sewn and the
latter is fed forward the length of a stitch. During this time the loopers following the
paths indicated by the arrows have been changing their relative positions so that
the loop formed by the needle a (Fig. 9) is seized by the looper d and presented to
the needle while the loop formed by the needle 6 is seized by the looper c and
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page_text: presented to the needle a. The loops thus form a cross and instead of each loop being
joined to the next loop formed by its own needle it is joined to the next loop of the
other needle.
The position of the points of the loopers in the mode of operation just described
applies to the case where the thread is passed through the needle from front to back.
The same stitch can however be produced if the needles are threaded from the side to
the centre but in this case the position of the points of the loopers will be as shown in
Figs. 6, 7 and 8 instead of as in Figs. 9, 10 and 11 respectively, otherwise the
description of Fige. 9, 10 and 11 applies to Figs. 6, 7 and 8.
Fig. 12 shows another kind of crossed chain stitch which differs from that shown in
Fig. 5 in that the loops of one line pass alternately under and over the loops of the
other line. To produce such an interlaced cross stitch it is only necessary to slightly
modify in the following manner the mechanism herein before described. Instead of
mounting the cams hi on the first motion shaft E of the machine we mount them on
a secondary shaft driven by suitable gearing from the first motion shaft E so as to
rotate at half the speed of the first motion shaft, and we then mount the loopers in a
slightly different manner.
In the arrangement first described the loops of one row of chain stitches for example
the left hand one of Fig. 5 always lie over the other and in order that they may lie
alternately over and under as in Fig. 12 we so arrange the loopers that the looper c
may pass not only in front of the looper d Fig. 2 but also behind it. A convenient
method of effecting this is shown in Figs. 13, 14, 15 and 16 according to which the
top part of one of the loopers d is formed as a bell crank lever hinged to the bottom
part as most clearly shown in Figs. 15 and 16.
The cams are shown at h¹¹ Fig. 14 which like Fig. 3 represents a plan of the
machine as seen from underneath. The cams ' are secured to the before-mentioned
secondary shaft K driven from the first motion shaft E through the toothed gearing
wheels GH the diameters of which are so proportioned to each other that the
shaft K rotates at half the speed of the shaft E thus making one revolution during
the time that two stitches are made. The curves of the cams are suitably
modified to suit their diminished speed.
When the looper d passes behind c Fig. 16 the former must be deflected forwards
in order that the needles may be able to enter the loops presented to them. To effect
this deflection a cam e Figs. 13 and 14 is mounted on the secondary shaft K in such
a position that at the proper moment it presses the arm d¹ of the hinged part of the
looper & and brings the part d in line with the looper c as illustrated in Fig. 13.
At the next stitch the eam e has made half a revolution and the arm d¹ is free.
The short arm d which oscillates simultaneously with the arms d and d¹ being pressed
by a spring then comes into play so that during the following movements the looper d
acts as a rigid piece in the manner shown in Fig. 2 that is to say the looper on the
front slide rod passes in front of the looper on the back slide rod.
Although we prefer the modification of the cams and loopers just described for
effecting the crossing of the loopers other analogous modifications of our invention
will readily occur for effecting the same purpose and our said invention is not limited
to any special shapes or construction of cams or loopers. The essential feature is that
the looper & shall cross over the looper c at the first stitch and under the looper cat
the second stitch, and so on, producing thereby the crossed chain stitch shown
in Fig. 12.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is:
1. The formation of a crossed chain stitch by uniting two lines of ordinary chain
stitches in such a manner that each loop of one line is joined to the next loop of the
other line substantially as hereinbefore described and set forth.
2. The crossed chain stitch substantially as shown in Fig. 5.
3. The interlaced cross chain stitch substantially as shown in Fig. 12.

page_text: 4. In a sewing machine for producing crossed chain stitches the use combination
and arrangement of two loopers each of which acts alternately first on one line of
loops and then on the other line of loops by change of position so that the needle
corresponding to one line of loops may enter the loop formed by the needle corre-
sponding to the other line of loops substantially as and for the purpose herein before
described and set forth.
Dated this Twenty-fourth day of October 1890
EDWARD TURNER WHITELOW,
70, Deansgate, Manchester, Agent for Applicants.