Arrangements of Costumes or Clothing for Children and Ladies.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Nov., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 19th Aug., 1891-Accepted, 19th Sept., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Novel Arrangements of Costumes or Clothing for Children and
Ladies.
I, CATHERINE MITCHELL MORRIS, of 29 The Parade, The Vale, Acton,
Middlesex, Gentlewoman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:
This invention relates to novel methods of making up childrens and ladies under
clothes and over clothes, whereby the articles are supported partly from the
shoulders and partly from the hips, in order to obtain free circulation and escape of
perspiration without absolute contraction or pressure on any part of the body.
The invention also dispenses with the use of corsets or stays, and yet preserves
the figure or shape of the wearer.
For the purpose of carrying my invention into practice, I will describe first a
child's dress or costume.
The garment next the skin is preferably of flannel and cut to what is known as
a combination, but with the front upper portions of sufficient width to overlap and
form two plys on the chest and stomach. These overlaps or two plys may be
increased in thickness by the addition of pieces of the same, or other material and
may be left plain, or have fasteners of any kind. The article is provided preferably
with short sleeves.
The next garment is made somewhat in the style of a princess robe also with
short or long sleeves and has additional breast pieces which may stop at the waist,
or be continued down to the lower front piece. There is an opening in the front
for securing the article round the body, and the back and side portions are shaped
to suit the figure.
The outer garment is similarly made to the intermediate one with the exception
of the sleeves.
The intermediate and outer garment may be of flannel, or other material to suit
the taste.
The above constitute what I term house clothing, but for outdoor purposes any
known article of clothing can be worn over them that are suitable for the
purpose.
For ladies (adults), I prefer to employ the usual combination garments now worn,
over or above which 1 prepare a bodice jacket of stockingette or like material
which shall be capable of stretching having sufficient elasticity only to permit of
fitting to the body. To the lower part of this bodice, I attach flannel, or other
warm petticoat preferably with a series of tucks to give sufficient warmth to the
legs and "set" to the dress.
The bodice jacket at the front and sides may have a couple of stiffeners, say
whalebone, to prevent it curling up. I also purpose attaching webbing or strips
diagonally up to the under seam of the arm, the fabric being retained in the shape
at which it was originally cut or fitted.
This bodice jacket is laced or otherwise fastened up the front to the desired
height at the neck and is provided with sleeves, short or long, but preferably long
which will enable the ordinary lining to the outside dress to be dispensed with,
if desired.
To be worn over this garment, I prepare another bodice jacket of similar
construction with the exception of the stiffeners and the long sleeves, the skirt being
of a different material forming a kind of over petticoat preferably with a lining
and a stiffening at the lower part to give additional substance.
On the shoulders of this bodice jacket, I attach by means of buttons, or other

page_text: fasteners, a long strip of material which passes from the back under the arm of the
opposite side round the front to under the other arm, then to the button or fastener
on the other shoulder, the strip crossing itself at about the middle of the back.
The portion of the strip that passes round the front assists in supporting the bust.
This strip may however be dispensed with.
Over this second named bodice garment any kind of dress can be worn.
Dated this 20th dox of Nawamba 1000
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Novel Arrangements of Costumes or Clothing for Children and
Ladies.
I, CATHERINE MITCHELL MORRIS, of 29 The Parade, The Vale, Acton
Middlesex, Gentlewoman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to novel methods of making up childrens and ladies under
clothes and over clothes, whereby the articles are supported partly from the
shoulders and partly from the hips in order to obtain free circulation and escape of
perspiration without absolute contraction or pressure on any part of the body.
The invention also dispenses with the use of corsets or stays, and yet preserves the
figure or shape of the wearer.
For the purpose of carrying my invention into practice, I will describe first a
child's dress or costume. The garment next the skin is preferably of flannel, and
cut to what is known as a combination but with the front upper portions of
sufficient width to overlap and form two plys on the chest and stomach. These
overlaps or two plys may be increased in thickness by the addition of pieces of the
same or other material, and may be left plain, or have fasteners of any kind. The
article is provided preferably with short sleeves.
The next garment is inade somewhat in the style of a princess robe also with
short or long sleeves and has additional breast pieces which may stop at the waist, or
be continued down to the lower front piece. There is an opening in the front for
securing the article round the body, and the back and side portions are shaped to
suit the figure.
The outer garment is similarly made to the intermediate one with the exception
of the sleeves.
The intermediate and outer garment may be of flannel, or other material to suit
the taste.
The above constitute what I term house clothing, but for outdoor purposes any
known article of clothing can be worn over them that are suitable for the purpose.
For ladies (adults), I prefer to employ the usual combination garments now worn,
over or above which I prepare a bodice jacket of stockingette, or like material
which shall be capable of stretching, having sufficient clasticity only to permit of
fitting to the body. To the lower part of this bodice, I attach flannel, or other
warm petticoat preferably with a series of tucks to give sufficient warmth to the
legs and "set" to the dress. The bodice jacket at the front and sides may have a
couple of stiffeners, say, whalebone to prevent it curling up.
1 also purpose
attaching webbing or strips diagonally up to the under seam of the arm, the fabric
being retained in the shape at which it was originally cut or fitted.
This. bodice jacket is laced or otherwise fastened up the front to the desired
height at the neck, and is provided with sleeves, short or long, but preferably
long which will enable the ordinary lining to the outside dress to be dispensed with,
if desired.

page_text: To be worn over this garment, I prepare another bodice jacket of similar con-
struction with the exception of the stiffeners and the long sleeves, the skirt being
of a different material forming a kind of over petticoat preferably with a lining
and a stiffening at the lower part to give additional substance.
On the shoulders of this bodice jacket, I attach by means of buttons, or other
fasteners, a long strip of material which passes from the back under the arm of the
opposite side round the front to under the other arm then to the button or fastener
on the other shoulder, the strip crossing itself.at about the middle of the back.
The portion of the strip that passes round the front assists in supporting the bust.
This strip may however be dispensed with.
Over this second named bodice garment any kind of dress can be worn.
To enable my invention to be understood, I have on the annexed drawings shown
four articles of wearing apparel.
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the article known as a combination for wear next
the skin, and provided with my double ply or overlaps a, a, on the chest and
stomach part for warmth and protection from draughts. This garment is shaped
and conforms somewhat to the figure of the wearer to prevent formation of pleats.
Figure 2 is a similar view of the garment to be worn over the combination, and
which I term a corset petticoat, it can be made in stockingette or in plain material
and is shaped and made to set closely to the body of the wearer. This garment is
provided with gussets for the breasts, and has fasteners down the front, so that it
can be secured to the upper and lower portions of the trunk and fit without undue
pressure, a plain material tight fitting robe being worn over this, whereby the loins
are protected and bosoms supported without interfering with or restricting free
motion of the body, such as when stooping, leaning over a table, or otherwise.
I provide the corset petticoat or the stockingette jacket with stocking
suspenders b, b, and from an additional looseness and length in the formation of the
legs c, c, of the combination, ample material will be found to be drawn through
between the tapes of the suspenders to cover and protect the knees of the wearer,
the skirt being also rather full to allow for motion of the wearer's legs while
walking or undergoing other exercises. The skirt portion of this is provided with
a full flounce sewn on the lower edge.
Figure 3 represents a bodice jacket of stockingette material, to which a skirt as
a petticoat is buttoned, or it may be otherwise fastened for suspension from the
selvedge or lower seam. This bodice from its elasticity fits close and adds
additional support without in any way restricting the motion of the body. d. d, are
short strips of whalebone or steel sewn to the lower part of the bodice to prevent
it curling up as is usual with such jackets while in wear, and to prevent lateral
stretch, sew tapes or webbing e, e, in diagonal order and varying in lengths to
give further support to the bosoms and to the stomach. The upper tapes f., are
so placed that they prevent the growth of flesh at the sides close to the armpits
and the boson's are thrown more to the front, whereby the figure of a developed
middle aged woman has the narrowness of body found in a young woman.
For stoutly inclined women, this attire is specially adapted, the whole of the
garments being in touch with the body, produce an equal amount of "set" whereby
the tendency to expand is obviated.
For summer wear the combination, the stockingette jacket with petticoat
attached, or a robe similar to that shown at Figure 2 in stockingette, a tight
fitting robe (plain) with frill at bottom edge, and an outside gown, constitute the
full rig-out, a light wrapper being used for shoulders at evening. These garments
will be found useful in the house at all seasons, but for winter wear all four garments
can be worn with the addition of any outer clothing.
With young persons approaching womanhood, the stockingette jacket may be
plain, as at Figure 4, or ribbed, as at Figure 3, and the bosoms can be supported
by a strip of canvas g arranged under them and then to cross at the back, each
end being secured on the shoulders.
The costumes chiefly for underwear will be found of great value to invalids, and

page_text: to young growing girls, as well as to fully grown and developed ladies. To
mothers nursing they are a boon because they give to the ever varying movements
of the body, which at other times are less numerous, and more of a stereotyped
order.
To young ladies, boating, playing at lawn tennis, at the gymnasium, or riding,
driving, or even while singing, the freedom of notion of all joints and of muscles
can be had without restriction, and with little fatigue, as is the case when corsets
-are worn.
By wearing my garments, the health of the wearer becomes improved and the
gracefulness of her movements combined with the prettiness of the costume
become in a short time very apparent and pleasing in effect.
For persons who have gone out of shape from various causes, my costume
re-forms the figure without in any way increasing the weight. In most cases, the
comfort and sense of freedoin possessed by the wearer after a short time, is such,
that her step becomes light and elastic, her gait and carriage improved, her spirits
- more lively, and her demeanor and friendly habits more enticing.
Girls wearing my costumes or garments, made up substantially as before referred
to, grow erect and have little or no tendency to stoop, nor to saunter or loll lazily
about, or to drop into a lump when in a sitting posture.
For children generally, the comparative looseness of the clothing without straps,
belts, elastics, and other restrictive agents as now worn, gives natural freedom to
all the joints and limbs, aud consequently a healthy life preserving action to the body.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The preparation of articles of clothing for children and ladies wear, as
herein before described.
2. The system of clothing girls and young ladies in loose combination, corset
petticoat, and tight fitting over robe, as set forth.
3. The method of dressing ladies in loose combination stockingette jacket with
skirt and over robe coverable by a gown, or other garment, as described.
mi
BAG LOUISD
day of Amer
LOL.
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166, Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Catherine Mitchell Morris.
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