IMPROVE- MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND MEANS CONNECTED THEREWITH, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO OTHER SIMILAR PURPOSES
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas John Handford of 42 Southampton Buildings,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent. for an invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS,
SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND MEANS CONNECTED
THEREWITH, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO OTHER
SIMILAR PURPOSES A communication from abroad by Hermann Charles
Gros of Cannstatt, Wurtemberg in the Empire of Germany, Engineer.
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas John Handford at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 29th April 1882.
THOMAS JOHN HANDFORD of 42 Southampton Buildings in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS SHOES AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND
MEANS CONNECTED THEREWITH PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO
APPLICABLE TO OTHER SIMILAR PURPOSES A communication from abroad by
Hermann Charles Gros of Cannstatt, Wurtemberg in the Empire of Germany.
Engineer.
"
"
This Invention relates chiefly to the manufacture of boots, shoes and other
coverings for the feet, and has reference principally to that description of machinery
or apparatus employed in the said manufacture for sewing the "welts" to the soles
and sewing "sew rounds as well as stitching the outer soles to the welts, in which
a circular awl and needle working around a common axis, or a circular needle alone
are or is employed, and to means to be used in connection with the said manu-
facture; but parts of the Invention are also applicable in connection with other
descriptions of machinery or apparatus used for the manufacture of boots, shoes,
and other coverings for the feet, and with sewing machines generally and part of
it is further applicable to other sewing purposes for which waxed thread is
employed.
In carrying out this Invention it is preferred to construct the machine generally
for the manufacture of Boots shoes, and other coverings for the feet substantially

page_text: in the manner described in the specifications to Letters Patent granted to Hermann
Charles Gros dated the 6th October 1877 Numbered 3720, and to John Henry
Johnson dated the 28th April 1879 Numbered 1666 except in the respects
hereinafter mentioned which form especial features of the present Invention.
According to one part of this Invention machinery or apparatus of the type
before referred to is adapted to the use of a double or lock stitch, by the employ-
ment of a shuttle vibrating in an arc of a circle in a plane at or about at right
angles to that of the circular motion of the needle. This shuttle (which contains
the second thread) is carried by an arm pivotted to some convenient part of the
frame of the machine and operated by means of a projection or lever, and a cam on
the usual cam shaft or any other suitable revolving shaft of the machine
The shuttle is formed with a moveable point or beak, either by pivotting the
same to the body of the shuttle or otherwise, which point or beak whilst obviating
the liability of the shuttle missing the loop through which it has to pass will in
the returning motion of the shuttle yield or recede before the body of the needle
shield which otherwise would intercept its passage.
This part of the Invention is also applicable to sewing machines generally.
Another part of the Invention relates to the imparting of a continuous or
practically continuous rotary motion in the same direction to a looper having a
reciprocating to and fro longitudinal or end motion such looper being used in
combination with an oscillating needle This result is accomplished by the use of
an endless spiral groove, that is to say two intersecting half spirals (right and left
handed) formed in the exterior of a barrel or projection constituting a continuation
of the looper shaft, in which groove fits a pin or roller carried by a stationary part
of the machine, so that as the looper shaft moves to and fro longitudinally, a
continuous rotary motion in one direction shall be imparted to the shaft. The
groove is by preference made of varying depth, decreasing towards the point of
change in the direction of the spiral and then suddenly increasing, and the pin or
roller is so fitted to its carrier as to admit of its following the variations in the
depth of the groove, whilst preventing it from moving in the direction either of the
longitudinal or the circular motion of the looper shaft, the result being that the
pin on arriving at the point in which the right and left handed spirals merge
suddenly falls, and thus a certainty of its action upon the half spiral of the reversed
direction is ensured.
By producing a continuous rotary motion in one direction, in lieu of the looper
reversing its rotary motion when it returns longitudinally, the liability of injury to
the thread is obviated, or greatly diminished the thread (which may be conducted
through the interior of the shaft made hollow for the purpose) being coiled round
the obtuse portion of the needle instead of suffering abrasion on its cutting edges.
This part of the said Invention is also applicable to sewing machines generally
Another part of the Invention relates to what is known as the tack drawer, that
is to say the instrument used in combination with machinery or apparatus of this
description for automatically withdrawing the "lasting" tacks as the operation of
sewing proceeds. In carrying out this part of the Invention the operative portion
of the tack drawer consists of a V shaped claw or prehensile device arranged so
as to lie in the concavity of the needle and the tack drawer is raised by the feed
lever in its upward motion and then immediately allowed to fall in such a manner
that the claw shall be in a position to lay hold of and extract the tacks on the
work being fed forward, and then rise so extracting them one by one after each
intermittent feed, as the operation of sewing proceeds.
This part of the said Invention is also applicable to other descriptions of; sewing
machines for the manufacture of boots, shoes and other coverings for the feet.
The Invention has further for its object obviating the necessity for heating the
parts of the machine through which the waxed thread passes, which heating is
ordinarily required in order to prevent the adherence of the thread in its passage,
but is objectionable, as it has the result by melting the wax on the thread of
neutralizing the effects of the waxing operation.

page_text: According to this Invention the before mentioned object is accomplished by
causing the waxed thread (prepared in the usual manner and wound upon a bobbin)
to come in contact after leaving the bobbin as it passes to the needle, with a sponge
or other porous vehicle saturated with a volatile hydro carbon or other volatile
liquid, such for example as benzoline, or otherwise to cause the said waxed thread
to receive a coating of benzoline or other volatile hydro-carbon or volatile liquid
the effect being to render the waxed thread non-adherent during its passage to the
needle, whilst as the hydro-carbon or enveloping substance quickly evaporates the
beneficial properties of the wax on the thread when in the work are secured.
This part of the Invention is applicable generally in conjunction with sewing
machines using waxed thread.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Thomas John Handford in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
28th October 1882.
THOMAS JOHN HANDFORD of 42 Southampton Buildings in the County of
Middlesex Patent Agent "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS SHOES AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET AND
MEANS CONNECTED THEREWITH PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO
APPLICABLE TO OTHER SIMILAR PURPOSES A communication from abroad by
Hermann Charles Gros of Cannstatt Wurtemberg in the Empire of Germany
Engineer
"
This Invention relates chiefly to the manufacture or boots shoes and other
coverings for the feet aud has reference principally to that description of machinery
or apparatus employed in the said manufacture for sewing the welts to the soles
and sewing "sew rounds" as well as stitching the outer soles to the welts in which
a circular awl and needle working around a common axis or a circular needle alone
are or is employed and also to means to be used in connection with the said
manufacture but parts of the Invention are also applicable in connection with
other descriptions of sewing machinery or apparatus used for the manufacture of
boots shoes and other coverings for the feet and with sewing machines generally
and part of it is further applicable to other sewing purposes for which waxed
thread is employed.
In carrying out this Invention it is preferred to construct the machine generally
for the manufacture of boot shoes and other coverings for the feet substantially in
the manner described in the Specification to Letters Patent granted to Hermann
Charles Gros dated the 6th October 1877 No 3720 (modified if desired in the
manner described in the Specification to Letters Patent granted to John Henry
Johnson dated the 28th April 1879 No 1666) except in the respects hereinafter
mentioned which form special features of the present Invention.
As the machines constructed in accordance with the first mentioned former
Specification and which are commonly called the Gros machines are well known it
will not be necessary for the elucidation of the present Invention to illustrate and
describe the machine generally but only the new features which form the subject
of the present Invention and so much of the old parts as is requisite to render the
action of the new parts intelligible.
This
The first part of the present Invention relates to the adaptation of machinery or
apparatus having a circular awl and needle working around a common axis or a
circular needle alone for the purposes herein before mentioned to the use of a double
or lock stitch by the employment of a shuttle vibrating in an arc of a circle in a
plane at or about at right angles to that of the circular motion of the needle.
part of the Invention is illustrated in Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 (Sheet 1) of the
accompanying drawings. Figures 1 and 2 being elevations partly in section taken
at right angles to each other of a portion of a Gros Machine with the improvement
forming the subject of this part of the present Invention applied thereto and
Figures 3 and 4 details drawn to a larger scale illustrating the construction and
action of the shuttle.
A represents a portion of the framing of a Gros Machine, B the main driving
shaft with its eccentric C and cam disc D, E a rod which is carried in bearings in
the frame and has mounted upon it the feed gauge F and a sleeve G, on which are
carried the needle stock H bearing the needle a the awl stock I bearing the awl b
and the lever K of the needle shield c. M. shews the top rest, N the back edge

page_text: guide and the looper; the whole of the before mentioned parts being fully
described in the first mentioned former Specification. P is the shuttle fitted to a
race which is formed by a segmental bracket R at its lower portion of a concave
section attached to the front of the frame A and so arranged that the shuttle shall
be capable of vibrating in an arc of a circle in a plane at or about at right angles
to the plane of the circular motion of the needle a. The shuttle is carried by the
shuttle carrier S which is pivotted at d to the bracket R and receives its
reciprocating oscillating motion from a cam groove e in the eccentric C through
the intervention of the connecting rod f and the double armed lever L the latter
being centred on the frame at g and provided at one end with a roller h adapted to
the said cam groove. It will be understood that the shuttle (which contains the
second thread) is adjusted or timed to work in relation to the needle in the same
manner as in other sewing machines in which a shuttle is employed.
The shuttle is however provided with a movable point or beak i either by
pivotting the same to the body of the shuttle as shown at 21 or otherwise, which
point or beak whilst obviating the liabilty of the shuttle missing the loop through
which it has to pass yields or recedes in the returning motion of the shuttle before
the body of the needle shield c. The functions of the movable point or beak will
be more fully understood from the following considerations videlicit :-It is
necessary that the body of the shuttle should in its circular motion work at the
exterior of the outer circumference of the needle whilst the loop which is drawn
by the needle as shewn in Figure 4 lies within the circle of the needle.
point or beak i therefore when protruded by its spring k extends within the circle
of the needle so as just to take up the loop drawn by the needle. When the
shuttle returns while the needle is in the work it would be intercepted in its
passage by the body of the needle shield c if the point or beak were a rigid
projection but by the arrangement hereinbefore described the point or beak by
yielding or receding (in compressing its spring) is enabled to pass the needle shield
with facility.
The
The construction and operation of the shuttle will be fully understood from an
inspection of the detail views Figures 3 and 4 in conjunction with the general
views Figures 1 and 2.
It should be observed that by the arrangement of the bracket R and of the
shuttle itself and the parts actuating it not only is a suitable path obtained for
the shuttle but there is no liability of their interfering or coming in contact with
the boots or shoes being sewn on the machine.
That feature of this part of the said Invention which consists in the construction
of a shuttle with a movable or yielding point or beak is also applicable to sewing
machines generally.
The said Invention relates secondly to the imparting of a continuous or
practically continuous rotary motion in the same direction to a looper having a
reciprocating to and fro longitudinal or end motion. Such looper being used in
combination with an oscillating needle. This part of the said Invention is
illustrated in Figures 5, 6, 67, 8 and 9 (Sheet 2) of the accompanying drawings.
Figure 5 being a side sectional elevation of the looper with contiguous portions of
the machine. Figure 6 an enlarged view of a barrel hereinafter referred to, fixed to
the looper shaft Figure 6 a diagrammatic view shewing its endless spiral groove
hereinafter described, developed and Figures 7, 8 and 9 views illustrating the
action of the looper.
P¹ is the looper shaft which in the present example is made hollow so as to
allow the thread to pass through its centre. This looper shaft carries at one end
the looper O and at its opposite end a barrel Q1 which is attached to the said shaft
by a screw or the barrel may be formed as a projection in one with such shaft.
In the exterior of the barrel Q' is formed an endless spiral groove that is to say
two intersecting half spirals m m³ (right and left handed) in which groove or
spirals fits a pin or roller n carried by a stationary part A' of the machine so that
as the looper shaft moves to and fro longitudinally a continuous rotary motion in

page_text: one direction is imparted to the shaft. The spirals m m¹ are made of varying
depth as indicated diagrammatrically in the developed view Figure 6 the groove
decreasing in depth towards the change from one half spiral to the other and then
suddenly increasing and the pin or roller n is fitted to its carrier A¹ so as to be
acted upon by a spring n' or otherwise in such a manner as to admit of the pin or
roller following the variations in the depth of the groove the result being that on
arriving at the points say for example the point 3 where the two right and left
handed half spirals merge the pin or roller n suddenly falls and thus a certainty of
its action upon the half spiral of the reverse direction is ensured. It will now be
clearly understood that as the looper shaft P¹ receives its longitudinal to and fro
motion by means of the double armed lever O¹ and its appurtenances in the
manner described in the first mentioned former specification a practically continuous
rotary motion is imparted to it by means of the endless spiral¡groove in the barrel
or projection Q²
By producing a continuous rotary motion in one direction in lieu of the looper
reversing the direction of its rotary motion when it returns longitudinally as in
the arrangement described in the first mentioned former specification the liability
of injury to the thread is obviated or greatly diminished, the thread being coiled
round the obtuse portion only of the needle instead of intermittently suffering
abrasion on the cutting edges of the barb or hook. This will be clearly understood
from an inspection of the views Figures 7, 8 and 9. Figure 7 represents the looper
having just laid the thread in the hook or barb a' of the needle. Figure 8 shows
the position of the thread in the barb or hook al of the needle when the looper
revolves according to the present Invention the thread being coiled around the
obtuse portion 1 of the needle whereas it will be seen from Figure 9 which repre-
sents the position of the thread in the barb or hook when the looper has a
reciprocating rotary motion in opposite directions as in the arrangement described
in the first mentioned former specification that the thread is then liable to injury
by the cutting edges 2 of the barb or hook a¹ whence the advantages of the present
improvement are apparent. This part of the said Invention is also applicable to
sewing machines generally.
The Invention relates thirdly to what is known as the "tack drawer" that is to
say the instrument used in combination with machinery or apparatus of this
description for automatically withdrawing the "lasting tacks as the operation of
sewing proceeds.
33
Figures 10, 11, 12 and 13 of the accompanying drawings illustrate this part of
the Invention Figure 10 being a side elevation of a portion of a Gros machine with
the improvements in the construction and arrangement of the tack drawer applied
thereto. Figure 11 being a front elevation partly in section Figure 12 a detached
view of a portion of figure 11 shewing the parts in a different position and
Figure 13 a detail perspective view of the tack drawer proper.
R' is the tack drawer the operative portion of which consists of a V shaped claw
or prehensile device o (figure 13) arranged so as to extend right within the concavity
of the circle of the needle a (figure 11) in such a manner as not to draw the tacks
(especially around the toe portion of the boot or shoe) until they would just come
in contact with the needle.
The tack drawer R¹ is raised for the extraction of the tacks by the feed lever S¹
the general arrangement and operation of which are fully explained in the first
mentioned former Specification. In carrying out this part of the present Invention
there is attached to the feed lever a spring ? which in the upward motion of the
former is brought in contact with a projection q on a rod T to which the tack
drawer is secured so that the tack drawer partakes of the upward motion of the
feed lever. When however the tack drawer is raised to a certain height it is
suddenly released and allowed to fall again by means of the following arrange-
ment. The rod T is provided at its lower end with an incline or projection
(figure 12) which works in a slot s against a stationary guide t attached to the
frame A of the machine in such a manner that when the rod T has been raised to

page_text: the required height the incline or projection causes the projection q to be moved
out of the range of the spring p the rod T is thus released and falls suddenly with
the tack drawer (its descent being assisted by a spring u) without waiting for the
descending motion of the feed lever S₁ so as to be in its proper place when through
the descending (that is to say, feeding) motion of the feed lever a tack will (by the
movement of the work) be fed into the V shaped claw or operative part o of the
tack drawer to be extracted by the ascent of the tack drawer produced by the next
upward motion of the feed lever. These actions are successively repeated so that
the tacks are extracted one at a time after each intermittent feed as the operation
of sewing proceeds.
This part of the Invention is also applicable to other descriptions of sewing
machines for the manufacture of boots shoes and other coverings for the feet.
In those cases where parts of the present Invention although shown applied to
a particular type of sewing machine are applicable to other sewing machines as
herein before mentioned the mode of adapting such parts of the Invention to the
other sewing machines will be perfectly understood by those skilled in the art from
the description herein before given without further explanation.
The Invention has lastly for its object obviating the necessity for heating the
parts of the machine through which the waxed thread passes which heating is
ordinarily required in order to make the thread pliable and prevent its adherence
in its passage but is objectionable as it has the result by melting the wax in the
thread of partially neutralizing the effects of the waxing operation and has also
many other disadvantages. For example the use of heat produces a certain amount
of soot and melts the wax to such an extent that it oozes out of the horn and
together with the soot soils the linings of the work. The fumes of the burning
gas or spirits and the smell of the melted wax are also objectionable on the score
of health.
According to this part of the Invention the before mentioned object is
accomplished by causing the waxed thread (that is to say the thread prepared in
the usual manner with the wax as ordinarily used by sole sewers and wound upon
a bobbin) to come in contact after leaving the bobbin as it passes to the needle
with a sponge wick or other porous vehicle saturated with a volatile hydrocarbon
or other volatile liquid such for example as very highly refined benzoline benzine
or petroleum spirit or methylated spirit or otherwise to cause the said waxed thread
to receive a coating of such volatile agents the effect being to render the waxed
thread pliable and nonadherent during its passage to the needle whilst as the hydro-
carbon or enveloping substance quickly evaporates the beneficial properties of the
wax on the thread when in the work are secured and the thread is moreover
absolutely unimpaired by its contact with the said substance.
The hydrocarbon or other volatile agent used is contained in a suitable reservoir
or vessel into which dips the sponge wick or other porous vehicle so as to be
continually saturated. This sponge wick or porous vehicle is held by a suitable
support so that as the thread passes to the needle it receives a coating of the agent
used sufficient to temporarily soften the wax on the thread after which the
evaporation takes place and the waxed thread resumes its normal condition as
hereinbefore described.
This part of the Invention is applicable generally in conjunction with sewing
machines using thread coated with wax as ordinarily employed by sole sewers and
requiring heat.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the hereinbefore in part
recited Letters Patent is :-
First The combination with machinery or apparatus having a circular awl and
needle working around a common axis or an oscillating circular needle alone for
the purposes specified, of a shuttle vibrating in an are of a circle in a plane at or

page_text: about at right angles to that of the circular motion of the needle substantially as
herein before described.
Second-Constructing shuttles of sewing machines with a movable or yielding
point or beak substantially as and for the purposes herein before described.
Third The employment in sewing machines having an oscillating needle of a
looper having a continuous or practically continuous rotary motion in one and the
same direction and a reciprocating to and fro longitudinal or end motion
substantially as herein before described.
Fourth Imparting to a looper having a reciprocating to and fro longitudinal or
end motion a continuous or practically continuous rotary motion in one and the
same direction by means of a barrel or projection on or from the looper shaft
formed with an endless spiral groove (that is to say two intersected half spirals right
and left handed) such groove being made of varying depth substantially as and for
the purpose hereinbefore described.
Fifth-In sewing machines for the manufacture of boots shoes and other
coverings for the feet the employment of a tack drawer constructed arranged
actuated and operating substantially in the manner hereinbefore described.
Sixth-In sewing machines using waxed thread, the coating of the waxed
thread (prepared in the usual manner as hereinbefore mentioned) as it passes to the
needle with a volatile hydrocarbon or other volatile liquid as herein set forth
which will render the waxed thread non-adherent and pliable during its passage to
the needle and then quickly evaporate leaving the waxed thread in its normal
condition substantially as herein before described.
In witness whereof I the said Thomas John Handford have hereunto set
my hand and seal this twenty eighth day of October One thousand eight
hundred and eighty two.
TH. J. HANDFORD (L.S.)