Improved Process and Apparatus for the Production of Fancy Coloured Jacquard Double Plush.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Feb., 1894-Accepted, 25th May, 1894
Improved Process and Apparatus for the Production of Fancy
Coloured Jacquard Double Plush.
A communication from EMIL CLAVIEZ, of 8, Ziegelstrasse, Chemnitz, in the
Empire of Germany, Director.
I WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON, F.C.S., M.I.M.E., of The Agency for
Foreign Patent Solicitors, 6 Lord Street, Liverpool, and 6 Bank Street,
Manchester, both in the County of Lancaster, and 323 High Holborn, in the
County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of the present invention is a process and apparatus having for their
object to produce fancy coloured Jacquard double plush, and also double plush
webs, in such a way that the same are worked as it were floatingly above each
other, and by means of the pile threads of the pile warp are connected to one
another, in fact in such a way that the intermediate spaces of the two goods (that
is to say the upper, and lower pieces) is filled up with the pile. This invention is
especially characterised in that the web forming the pile is drawn in in the harness
of a peculiarly constructed Jacquard machine, further both the warps of the
foundation (both upper and lower pieces) are beamed on beams in a known manner
whilst the pile threads of both the pile warps are individually separated, and
wound up on tubes in order to allow of a different working in as may be necessitated
by the pattern.
All these tubes are situated as usual in the usual creel (German "cander").
It must be further specially noted that by the connection or combination of the
loom, and the Jacquard machine, both foundations are worked separately & the
plush is formed by the plush or pile threads being so intertwined that the upper
plush also contains all threads of the lower, & vice-versa so that in this way the
representation of the figures of the lower plush is contained in the upper plush.
Referring to the accompanying five sheets of drawings, Figs. 8 to 11 show how
the pattern with four colours is produced. In the production of this four colour
pattern, the upper goods are say red and green, and the lower blue and white,
Figs. 7 and 7; as however the pile of the lower goods must mutually complete
the pile of the upper goods & vice-versa, the blue & white pile must be intertwined
or twisted from below upwards, that is to say into the upper goods, & the red &
green pile from above downwards in order to be firmly fastened by the fastening or
end threads. If then the double plush be cut across the middle, blue, white, red
& green will be contained & fastened both in the upper & lower goods by means
of the inserted fastening threads.
The movements for bringing about this mutual supply of colours are effected
individually, and therefore at different times. The resultant figure of the upper
goods is therefore a reproduction of the lower goods only reversed.
The diagram of Figs. 7 and 7* will explain the formation of the shed when the
loom is at rest with the Jacquard machine, and that without any further explana-
tion. The pile warp is for instance divided into four harnesses or sets, the sets I
and II forming the lower goods, sets III and IV the upper goods.
For a further explanation of this process however, a description of the apparatus
in its essentials must be first given, and the same is as follows:
The machine under consideration for carrying out the process in question is
characterised especially by the construction of different new mechanisms suited to the
object in view on an appropriate, and strongly constructed loom, and also by a suitably

page_text: constructed Jacquard machine which is more particularly described in a recent
Patent Application No. 3142 made on behalf of Mr. Emil Claviez. It is by the
intimate joint work of the loom with the Jacquard machine that the object in
view is attained.
The construction of the appliance is shown on the accompanying
drawings.
Fig. 1 is a right hand side view of the loom; Fig. 2 a left hand side view;
Fig. 3 a front view ;
Fig. 4 shows the movement mechanism for the lay;
Fig. 5 & 6 are two views of the appliance for moving the knife;
Figs. 7, and 7 are diagrams showing the groups of the pile, and binding threads
when the entire machine is at rest;
Figs. 8 to 11 explain diagramatically the work periods for the production of a
Jacquard double plush provided with a four shaft ground connection.
On both sides G of the framework a second framework G¹ is mounted
(Figs. 1, 2 and 3), which latter carries the Jacquard machine J. with its movement
mechanism.
It may be casually remarked by way of more detailed explanation, that the
Jacquard machine J. has a moveable, and a fixed knife box M, and M' respectively,
and also a moveable, and a fixed plate or wire tray P. P respectively. The
shafts 64, 63, and 62 impart the requisite motion to the individual parts of the
Jacquard machine J.
The further details of the same are to be found in Mr. Claviez's Application
No. 31424.
The loom is driven from the shaft A. W, Figs. 1 to 3 by means of pulleys 32, 32.
The shaft A. W. also carries a cog wheel 33 which transmits motion by means
of wheel 34 to the main shaft H. W. Figs. 3, 2, 1. The motion is therefore
communicated by means of intermediate parts, and not as in the case of other
looms for smooth double plush goods directly on the crank shaft. The last
named main shaft is bent at right angles to produce the movement of the lay,
and moreover has an eccentric 67 at its left side (Figs. 2 and 3) which causes
the motion of the pattern cylinder Z. by means of an eccentric rod I, and
lever 75. On the inner side of the main shaft H. W. there is a balance wheel 35.
Cog wheel 65, keyed on the right side of the shaft H. W. imparts motion to the
picker shaft S. S. W. by means of cog 36, and to the eccentrics for putting into
motion the shafts of the Jacquard machine. The parts relating to the picker are
omitted in the main view, but will be more fully explained later on.
The right
side of shaft S. S. W. is prolonged beyond the loom framing, and is seated in its
own framing formed out of rails 97, 98 and 89 (Fig. 3). There are six
cams 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 mounted on this prolongation, and arranged as shown
on the drawings. The cam 53 acts as cover. The grooves are eccentric, and are
formed so that a small roller can run therein (see Fig. 1). These rollers are con-
nected with levers, and in such a manner that each roller is connected with one
lever. 54 to 58 inclusive in Fig. 3 of the drawings represent the levers. Lever 59
is connected by means of eccentric rod 3, and lever 72 with the shaft 64 which
causes the plate or wire tray P' (Figs. 1 and 2) to rise and fall. Lever 58 is also
connected by means of eccentric rod 2, and lever 74 with shaft 63 for effecting the
rise and fall of the knife box M. Levers 57, 56, 55, and 54 are on the one hand,
and as will be seen without further explanation from Figs. 1 and 3, connected
below with rods 79, 80, 81, 82 in order to actuate the lower shaft treadles 77, 78,
28, 29, 30, 31, whilst on the other hand they are provided above with rods 86, 85,
84, 83 for actuating the upper shaft treadles 87, 88, 24, 25, 26 & 27 which are
seated on a cross beam 90.
The picker shaft S. S. W. has further a mitre wheel 60, which imparts motion
to a second one 61 which brings into action (herein after explained) the cutting
mechanism for the knife. The harness board 4, appertaining to the jacquard
mounting is correspondingly arranged in front of or behind the four shafts 7, 8, 9, 10
(Figs. 1 & 3). The harness of this Jacquard machine may be taken as forming

page_text: box M is along with the entire set of plates or wires passed upwards from its
position of rest Fig. 7, and falls down again on the forward movement of the box.
Starts stand again as in Fig. 8,
Shafts 8, 9, 10 depressed, 7 raised.
Plate or wire tray P₁ is at rest as in Fig. 7. The knife box M brings the plates
or wires selected by the card, that is to say the pile threads of part 5, upwards.
A pick is delivered which fixes tightly the pile threads of the under goods into
the upper goods.
After the pick has been delivered, the knife box falls back again. Shaft 10
passes upwards into the position of shaft 7, the lay moves forward, both the goods
separate, and the pile for sets of colours I and II is formed.
The threads belonging to sets I and II, make the motion explained by Fig. 10ª.
The picks would lay under the threads. As now shaft 8 goes upwards knife
box M falls, consequently the relative threads must form a loop and so the pile
is prepared Fig. 10%.
The Jacquard machines make the same movements during these periods as in
the case of periods 1, 2, 3 and 4. Only the shafts alternate.
That is to say shaft 8 changes with shaft 7 and
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and therefore there is imparted to the ground work of the upper and lower goods
a firm connection, formed in the manner of linen.
There only yet remains to be mentioned that the Jacquard machine in con-
sequence of its positive and negative action must also have a positively and
negatively formed pattern card.
In the above description four shafts have been taken as an example for the
production of the ground connection, practical requirements will however show the
necessary change of shafts and instead of four sets of colours, 5, 6, 7 or more may
be employed.
The mechanism for carrying out this process of manufacture may be divided
into three parts:
First. The driving appliance for the lay.
Second. The regulator.

page_text: The knife intended for the cutting appliance moves in a suitable manner in
guides on the rail 45, and Figs. 3, 5 and 6 show the movement mechanism necessary
therefor.
The picker shaft SSW transmits its motion by aid of a mitre wheel 60 to a
shaft (Fig. 6). The latter stands perpendicularly to the picker shaft and is
seated in two bearings u u' on part of the frame 89. The last named shaft t
carries at its front side a grooved cam V, (Figs. 5 and 6), in which slides a roller 109
revolubly journalled to the lever h. If therefore the shaft t is set revolving,
the lever h seated in the bearing k is set swinging up and down. The latter is
connected by means of a rod 108 with a toothed segment 101. This segment
engages with a cog wheel 102, which sets revolving another cog wheel 105 lying
behind it, and this imparts motion by aid of the wheel 104 to the drum 103 round
which a rope 106 is coiled. The knife 107, which moves in suitable guides, is
connected to the last named rope. If therefore the lever moves up and down-
wards, the knife will move from left to right, and consequently the double plush
will be cut. The stroke of the knife can be increased or diminished at will by the
application of suitable slits. An adjustable rail 46 serves as a guide for the goods.
By a suitable change in the number of teeth of the mitre wheels 60 and 61, it is

page_text: possible to easily produce one, two, three or any other number of movements of
the lay, or expressed otherwise, according to one, two, three, or more picks, one or
more movements of the knife, which for obtaining an even cut is of great importance
in different qualities.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what !
claim is:
First. A process for the production of coloured fancy Jacquard-double-plush,
characterized by the threads of the upper goods being worked separately from the
threads of the under goods during the process of weaving, so that the formation
of the pile takes place by a Jacquard machine in such manner that after the ground-
work has been inserted into the upper and lower goods, the pile of the under goods
is formed by aid of the pile threads of the upper goods, or reversed, the pile of the
upper goods by aid of the pile threads of the lower goods, so that a coloured fancy
double plush is produced in which the colours of the one plush unite with the pile
threads of the other plush, consequently the centre pile, and therefore the entire
figure in plush of the under goods, is formed by a separate motion from the upper
goods, and the threads of the upper goods unite reciprocally with those of the lower
goods for the formation of the correct figure intended, so that for example the
upper goods also contain the colours of the lower goods, and the reverse figure of
the under goods is contained in the upper goods.
Second. For carrying out a process such as specified under Claim 1, a loom
characterized by the combination of a driving appliance for the lay, and of a
cutting implement, in such a manner that during the revolution of the main shaft,
the lay strikes the goods twice for one pick, so that, on the one hand, at the first
stroke of the lay the pick is delivered, whereupon the Jacquard machine and the
shafts pass into a position of rest, and, on the other hand, at the second stroke of
the lay, the two goods are drawn apart, and consequently the pile formed, and then
the upper and lower plush is simultaneously carried to the goods beam by means
of the regulator, whereupon the cutting asunder of the double plush is effected
during the winding up by means of a new cutting tool.
Third. In a loom of the kind specified in Claim 2, an operating device for the
lay, characterised by the arrangement of a bell crank lever 100, seated on the
picker shaft (SS W), and which stands in combination with the bent up main
shaft (HW) by means of links (99), and with the lay (23) by means of rod (i), so
that the same is driven from the main shaft (H W), and the shuttle blow results
from a star wheel (s) seated upon the picker shaft (SSW), and the motion is
transmitted by means of suitable intermediate parts to the beaters (S).
Fourth. In a loom of the kind specified under Claim 2, a cutting appliance
consisting in a one armed lever (h), sliding in a cam V and seated on a shaft (t),
which lever sets swinging a toothed segment (101), which segment, by aid of a
series of toothed wheels turns backwards and forwards a rope drum (103), so as to
inove to the right and left the knife (107) fixed on the rope and sliding in suitable
grooves, for the object of effecting a separation of both the plush fabrics at a
suitable place, and in which by means of slits the stroke of the knife can be
increased or diminished according to the width of the goods to be produced, and
according to the sizes of both the mitre wheels, and dependent upon any desired
number of picks, any desired number of movements of the knife can be made.
Dated February 15th 1894.
W. P. THOMPSON & Co.