Improvements in the Method of and Means for Trimming and Paring the Curls of Hat Brims.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 8th July, 1899
Complete Specification Left; 8th May, 1900-Accepted, 9th June, 1900
.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Method of and Means for Trimming and Paring
the Curls of Hat Brims.
I, GILES ATHERTON, of the Virginia Mills, Higher Hillgate, Stockport, in, the
County of Chester, Hatter's Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
My said invention relates to the trimming and paring of the curls of hat
brims. In shaping and curling such hat brims the hats are placed upon matrices
and an india rubber bag or diaphragm is pressed down thereon by hydraulic
means so as to shape the hat to the curve and curl of the matrices. The hats are
then removed from the matrices and the curls are trimmed and pared by hand
or by a machine to the required shape.
Under my invention I arrange to facilitate such trimming and paring of the
curls by providing means whereby this can be effected whilst the hat is still
upon the matrix after the removal of the matrix from the hydraulic press.
To effect this I form each matrix with a recessed portion or groove, the top
cdge of the recess or groove representing the exact shape of curl to be given to
the hat brim.
The usual or necessary number of matrices would of course be provided for
the varying sizes and shapes of curls. The hat is placed upon the matrix as
usual, the india rubber bag or diaphragm pressing the felt by hydraulic pres-
sure over the curl and into the recessed portion of the matrix. After the removal
of the matrix with the hat upon it from the hydraulic press the operator can
rapidly run a cutting chisel or any other suitable paring tool round the recess
the top of which serves as a shoulder to guide the cutting tool: The curl can
thus be expeditiously and accurately cut whilst the hat is still upon the matrix
as the shoulder defines the true periphery of the style or width of curl. The
shoulder formed by the recessed portion or groove in the matrix may be vertical,
undercut or inclined inwards. It must be understood that the object of iny
invention is to provide a shoulder or part upon the matrix to accurately corre
spond with the shape of required curl, which shoulder or part serves as an abut-
ment or guide for a suitable cutting tool so that the trimming and paring of the
curls of the hat brims may be effected whilst they are still upon the matrices.
The method of effecting this may be therefore varied to some extent without
denarting from the spirit of my invention..

page_text: If desired the hat may be taken off the matrix before being pared as the felt
may be pressed into the recess in the matrix so as to leave a clear defining line
upon the hat brim which would readily serve as a guide for the cutting of the
brim to the required shape.
In this case the defining line may be more conveniently effected by imparting
a sharper edge to the recess c as shown at e' Fig. 6.
Any suitable cutting or paring tool may be employed to effect the paring of
the hat brim whilst the hat is still upon the matrix and in Figs. 7 to 10 I show
by way of example several forms of such tools, which tools however form no
part of my invention.
In Fig. 7 I show in front and side elevation a simple cutting chisel e one edge e'
of which is blunted or rounded.
The rounded edge is placed at the bottom of the groove and facilitates the
rapid sweep of the chisel round the recess. Another form of cutting tool is
shown in elevation in Fig. 8 and in plan in Fig. 9. The knife blade f is secured
at the side of a suitable handle g which handle carries at the end an anti-friction.
bowl to run on the top of the matrix b outside the recess c.
In Fig. 9 is shown in side elevation and plan an angularly arranged cutter i,
adjustable for wear, the foot 1 of the cutter holder j lying at the bottom of the
groove or recess when the cutter is being swept around the hat brim. Fig. 10
shows in edge and side view a type of planing tool, the cutting blade & being
secured by means of a wedge the bottom edge m of the plane when cutting-
being arranged within the recess c of the matrix b.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
Forming the matrices used in the shaping and curling of hat brims with a
recess or groove serving as a guide for a tool in cutting the hat birms to the
required shape whilst upou the matrix or for providing a defining line to
facilitate the removal of the surplus felt of the hat brim or curl substantially as
described
Dated this 7th day of May 1900.
For the Applicant,
E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
.Chartered Patent Agents,
5, John Dalton Street, Manchester, and
3, Yorkshire Street, Rochdale.