IMPROVEMENTS IN PACTURE OF MUPPS, CUFFS, RUFFS, TIPPETS, MANTILLAS, PILLERINES, DRESSING GOWNS, BOOTS, SHOES, SLIPPERS, COATS, CLOAKS, SHAWLS, STOCKS, CRAVATS, CAPES, BOAS, CAPS, BONNETS, AND TRIMMINGS FOR PARTS OF DRESS
Year: 1842

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
KEMPSON, of the Borough of Leicester, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Eighth day of December, in the sixth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said William Kempson, Her especial license, full power, sole privilege and
authority, that I, the said William Kempson, my exors, admors, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said William Kempson, my exors, admors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at
all times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town
of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
PACTURE OF MUPPS, CUFFS, RUFFS, TIPPETS, MANTILLAS, PILLERINES, DRESSING
GOWNS, BOOTS, SHOES, SLIPPERS, COATS, CLOAKS, SHAWLS, STOCKS, CRAVATS, CAPES,
BOAS, CAPS, BONNETS, AND TRIMMINGS FOR PARTS OF DRESS;" in which said
Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said William Kempson, shall
cause a particular description of the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High
Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after

page_text: of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference
being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Kempson, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had
to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked
thereon; that is to say:
My Invention consists in adapting and applying what I call artificial fur,
made by machinery such as is commonly used in making looped or knit
fabrics, to the various purposes herein described. And in order that my
Invention may be most fully understood and readily carried into effect, I will
proceed to explain the means pursued by me in making fabrics having on one
surface thereof a lengthened and close nap or pile, produced from the wool or
hair of animals whose fur it is desired to imitate, or cotton, silk, or other fibres,
such wool or hair or other fibres not being first made into yarn. One means
of manufacturing fabrics suitable for carrying out my Invention is using an
ordinary stocking frame of such a width as will enable me to produce the
width of fabric desired. I will therefore proceed to describe the mode of
working by me with such machine, and I will afterwards give such information
as will enable a workman to produce fabrics.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
In working with a stocking frame, I will suppose that work is on the
needles, as is shewn by the section of a part of a stocking or knitting frame,
Figure 1, and part of a front view, Figure 2, there being apparatus applied
thereto for supplying a sheet or sliver of wool or other fibre used. This appa-
ratus consists of two grooved rollers, and the sliver is wound by preference in
a series of bobbins about two inches wide, by which the sheets of sliver across
the width of the machine will be divided into ribbons of sliver; but this may
be varied, and the whole width of sliver required may be wound on one roller.
The apparatus which carries the sliver is counterbalanced with one or more
weights. The apparatus for applying the fibre to the needles consists of a
frame a, a, the groove rollers having their bearings at each end at b, b, the
brasses of the upper roller being pressed downwards by means of springs c and
set screw d, d, and the workman, from time to time, moves a quantity of the
sliver or slivers of fibres by turning the upper roller by the handles d. The
frame which carries the apparatus for supplying sliver to the needles moves on
axes at e, e, and f, f, and being balanced as above explained, the workman can

page_text: readily cause the sliver to be laid over the needles, the slivers being divided by
the teeth of the comb g for each needle, and the row of bristles supports the
sliver. The workman takes hold of the frame a, a, at each end with his hands,
and causes the apparatus to approach and place the sliver over the needles
when the parts are in the position shewn in Figure 1, so that each needle will
be supplied with a portion of sliver, which will hang over the needles. The
sinkers are then to be brought forward to take the wool or fibres back on to
the stems of the needles. The thread carrier is then caused to place the thread
across the needles, the jacks are to be drawn, and the course finished as usual.
The fabric thus produced, when taken out of the stocking or knitting frame, is
brushed upon the back surface with gum, size, or other flexible cementing
material, for the purpose of securing a calico or other cloth fabric to the back,
which, in addition to giving substance and strength to the knit fabric, also
tends to secure the fleece on the front sui face, and thus render the fabrics so
produced very suitable for the manufacture of the various articles herein
mentioned.
Another means of manufacturing fabrics suitable for carrying out my inten-
tion is by using a stocking machine or knitting frame with warp guides applied
thereto for inlaying the fibres into the fabric produced by the knitting or
stocking machinery. This combination of machinery is not new, and forms no
part of my Invention. I have, however, shewn so much of a stocking machine
or knitting frame with warp apparatus applied thereto as will facilitate the
Inven-
description of this mode of making suitable fabrics for carrying out my
tion, and render the same easily and fully understood. Figure 3 shews the
section of parts of a stocking frame with warp machinery combined therewith.
In this case the material used is made into drawings, and the same are wound
on to a roller g, at one end of which a weighted cord is applied, which, taking
a turn round the roller, is made fast to the spring h. By this means the slack
of the drawings is taken up at the time of knocking over the work. i is the
guide bar, which moves on axes at j, one at each end, and k is a handle by
which the guide bar is forced in, and by which it is caused to lap the
drawings each over a needle in a similar manner to when making warp
lace fabrics, but in this machine only one row or bar of guides is used, there
being a wheel applied at the end of the machine for the purpose of shogging
the guide bar, this wheel being actuated by a ratchet wheel, with a driver and
clawker similar to what are used in ordinary warp lace machinery. The
stocking machinery is of the ordinary construction, and need not, therefore,
be described. On to the hand bar are affixed knives or cutters l, l, one to each
two needles, the guides being of the same guage as the cutters.
Under the

page_text: O KITTY
COURSE OF WORKING.
The guides are now moved below the cutters, and the guide bar then racks
two spaces to the right hand. The guides are then moved above the cutters,
and the guide bar racks one space to the left hand. The guides are then
moved up between the needles, and the guide bar racks two spaces to the left
hand. The guides are then passed below the needles to complete the lapping,
and are then brought towards the front of the machine, to the position shown in
the Drawing, Figure 3. The thread is now laid upon the needles by the thread
carrier, and the jacks are drawn in the usual manner, the pressing movement
and knocking over the work having secured the fleecy material, the sinkers
are brought over the arch, which causes the cutters to cut the loops of
the fleecy material, and when the frame is moved back the machine is again
in a position to have a fresh portion of fleecy material placed upon the
needles.
Note. The sinkers are made deeper in the throat at a than usual, to allow
of the sinker frame descending sufficiently to ensure of the knives cutting the
fleecy material. The guides in the succeeding motion are first moved below
the cutting points, and then rack two spaces to the right hand; the guides
then move above the cutting points, and rack one space to the right hand;
and after passing above the needles, the guides rack two spaces to the left
hand. The fabric thus produced is then treated in the same manner as
that above described.
I would here remark, that I am aware that it is not new generally to work
wool which has not been spun into the loops, when producing knit or looped
fabrics, such fabrics as are called "fleecy hosiery" having been before manu-
factured, where the nap or pile obtained thereon is caused to come next the
person of the wearer, and consequently on the interior of the article made up
therefrom; but in such cases the quantity of wool, and the evenness of the
wool so introduced, has not been such as to render those fabrics so heretofore
made suitable where and in such case as it is required to have the pile or

page_text: nap close and long, and even on the face, and in such quantities as to resemble
the fur of the animal whose wool or hair is used for producing the nap or.
pile to form the face or outer surface of the articles made therefrom. Having
produced knit or looped fabrics having a close pile or nap thereon suitable for
the front or outer surface of the articles to be made therefrom, I then use it.
in making up muffs, cuffs, ruffs, tippets, mantillas, pillerines, dressing gowns,
boots, shoes, slippers, coats, cloaks, shawls, stocks, cravats, capes, boas, caps, and
bonnets, and in doing so I use the fabrics as if they were skins of animals.
with the fur thereon, and having cut them to the required shapes, I sew them
into the desired articles, the wool or hair being in all cases on the outer surface.
Another part of my Invention relates to a mode of making fringes in warp
machinery for the trimmings of parts of dresses, and in doing so I remove or
omit to apply needles on the needle bar to an extent equal to twice the width
I wish to have the fringe part of the fabric produced in the machine, and I.
leave or apply needles to such a width as I propose to make a looped fabric
for holding the fringe, as will readily be understood on examining Figure 4,.
where a section of so much of a warp machine is shown as will enable me.to
explain this part of my Invention, there being only one guide bar of ordinary
guides for making fabric opposite those parts where there are needles, one
guide to each needle. In carrying out this part of my Invention the fibres used.
for producing the fringe may be yarn or roving, with only sufficient twist put
on to facilitate its being worked through a guide. The manner in which this
machine works is this:-The guides of the guide bar m cause the guides thereon
to be looped on their needles, the carriers of the carrier bar n moving to and
fro carrying the yarns or the rovings, whichever may be used, across the
space between and under two sets of needles, and the yarn or roving carried.
by each carrier on the bar n will be fastened into the respective fabrics
produced on each two sets of needles, and according to the width the two sets
of needles are apart so will be the length of the loose. portion of the fringes
produced when the fabric produced has been cut into two parts, and the width
of the looped fabric to which the fringes are attached will depend on the
width of the sets of needles used; by this arrangement there will be several
widths of fabric produced in a machine, each width of fabric being produced
on two sets of needles, and across the space between them; it will therefore
be understood that the carriers on the bar n act somewhat as thread carriers of
stocking machinery, so far as laying their threads across, but in this case
under the needles, and the threads so laid across under the needles are not
looped into a fabric, but are tied into a fabric by the looping of the threads of

page_text: the guides m of the guide bar m. And it should be stated, that at the time of
laying the threads or rovings under the needles by the guides or thread
carriers n (one to each space between two sets of needles), the sinkers are to
be as far forward as they can come to knock over the work. When the thread
or roving is laid across, the sinkers descend and take back the work upon the
needles, and the guides m lap, and the course is completed in the usual
manner; by this means fringes for the trimmings for parts of dresses may be
made with great facility. The fringes thus made may also be readily applied
to the manufacture of cuffs, muffs, ruffs, tippets, mantillas, pillerines, capes,
and boas, by taking cloth or other suitable material as a foundation, and by
cutting or otherwise forming the same to the required shape for the article
to be made, and then attaching, by sewing or otherwise over the whole
outer surface thereof, a sufficient number of fringes to cover the same, and
in such manner that one depth of fringe shall cover the head of or partially
overhang the next adjoining fringe, and the appearance of fur will be thus
given.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the best means I
am acquainted with for performing the same, I would wish it to be understood
that I make no claim to the introducing of wool or hair into knit or looped
fabrics when separately considered. But what I do claim is the mode herein
described of manufacturing muffs, cuffs, ruffs, tippets, mantillas, pillerines,
dressing gowns, boots, shoes, slippers, coats, cloaks, shawls, stocks, cravats,
capes, boas, caps, and bonnets, by adapting and applying knit or looped fabrics,
having a close nap or pile produced thereon by introducing wool, hair, or other
fibrous material not previously made into yarn, in the making of the fabrics
for the outer face or surface of each of such articles, as above described.
And I also claim the mode of making fringes for the trimmings for parts
of dresses, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Kempson, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Sixth day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-three.
WILLIAM (L.S.) KEMPSON.
Signed, sealed, and delivered, by the
within-named William Kempson, in

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Sixth day of June, in the
year of our Lord 1843, the aforesaid William Kempson came before our said
Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification afore-
said, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Eighth day of June, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and forty-three.