Year: 1887

page_text: I, ERNEST BOURSIER of 17 Rue de la Colonne, Molembeck St. Jean, les Bruxelles
Belgium, Dyer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention more particularly refers to cold dyeing that is to say without any
heating or cooking nor any washing in hot dye whether the fabrics are made of
animal or vegetable materials or of a combination of these materials. The invention
is especially applicable for dyeing anew by transformation of the shades of the fabrics
already coloured. Its essential character and its predominant advantages are to
produce a perfect dye without spot or cloudyness and to preserve at the same time
fineness, suppleness and the new brilliancy of fabrics. Its employment realises
especially a progress not yet attained of bring able to transform according to the
changes of fashion the unfashionable shades of fabrics especially silks, ribbons and
velvets, which form each year the selling off goods of shops, and gives them all their
mercantile value, preserving or reviving the qualities and appearance of the materials
as if they were absolutely new.
And in order that my invention may be easily understood I will describe same with
reference to the accompanying drawings.
Figure 1 is a vertical section, and Figure 2 is a plan of a dyeing bath constructed
according to my invention.
Figure 3 is a vertical section of the frame for holding the dyeing material shewn
in the vessel containing the dye.
Figure 4 is a vertical section shewing the curve or slope of the platform for the
drainage of the frame and its covering during drainage.
Prins 8.11

page_text: Figures 5 and 6 shew in vertical section and plan respectively the frame constructed
according to my invention for dyeing wide materials.
Figure 7 is a vertical sectional elevation of such a frame adapted for holding narrow
materials such as ribbons.
Figure 8 is a sectional elevation of similar frame adapted for holding material of
small varying widths.
Figure 9 is a vertical section, and Figure 10 is a plan shewing the apparatus for
wringing or drying and shewing the position of a frame during such process.
Figure 11 is a vertical section and end view of the horizontal wringing apparatus.
My invention consists :
1. In the composition of a bath of a new dye.
2. In a series of new processes applied to the execution of operations, that the
dyeing of fabrics, comprises.
3. In the arrangement and in the mode of employing different apparatus used in
the said operations.
I will first indicate the composition of the dyeing bath and of the mordant and I
will then describe the operations comprised in my process by describing the apparatus
which they require in the natural order of their employment.

page_text: to be obtained, this solution of the tinctorial material is mixed with the hydrocarburet
bath in the proportion of 1 to 2%, or from 4 to 6% according to the shades to be
obtained.
The three elements described form then by their mixture in the proportion described,
the dyeing bath employed in the process which is about to be described. The said
dyeing bath possesses this property which is exclusively necessary, that it be absolutely
clear and limpid and free from all trace of saponification.
The object of this operation is to dispense with all manipulation of the fabric by
the hands of the workman during the operation of dyeing and to avoid all contact
between the said fabric and external objects other than the dyeing bath. It also
results in assuring the equal action and quickness of the dyeing, the wringing and
the drying of the fabric. It is carried into effect by means of an apparatus or frame
whereby at one and the same time the fabrics are energetically stretched by their
width and wound in square folds one on the other in such manner as to avoid all
contact between them and to allow of equal and quick action of the dye, the wringing
and drying. The different arrangements of apparatus enable me to arrive at this
result. The apparatus shewn by Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8 of the annexed drawings is
composed of a shaft A B to which two discs C and D are connected. On each of
these are firmly fitted several arms radially arranged of a regular polygon the centres
of which are placed on the shaft. These are provided throughout their length with
small hooks to which the fabric can be hooked. The two discs C and D are movable
on the shaft and can be fixed at any desired point on it by screws. The lower end B
of the shaft is cylindrical and surrounded by a metal ring, its upper end A is on the
contrary square and arranged in such manner that it can be connected to a crank; I
also employ a horizontal extractor as shewn at Figure 11. This arrangement allowing
of a manipulation easy and rapid.
The fabric to be dyed is hooked by one of its edges to the hooks of the
upper disc and by the other to the hooks of the lower disc commencing with
the hook nearest to the shaft. It is afterwards rolled spirally around the shaft
as centre and being hooked successively to each of the hooks of the arms of
the two discs C and D in such manner that the extremity of the piece of material
forms the outside of the frame, the last turn of the spiral. The discs C and D are then
removed from one another so as to well stretch the material throughout and to avoid
all contact between the folds. As before stated another form may be given to this
frame but whatever that may be I claim the method of arranging the fabric as
described on the frame as one of the essential features of my process.
These frames enable me to wind from sixty to seventy metres of material and to dye
it perfectly throughout its width. When acting upon narrow materials several pairs
of discs may be arranged on the shaft and thereon secured several pieces of material.
When narrow ribbands are treated it is sufficient to hook them by a single edge of
their width. This arrangement enables me to key on the same shaft five or six discs
each carrying a piece of ribbon.
Whatever may be the varying size and the proportions of the frame with regard to
length and width of fabric they can be dyed according to my invention.

page_text: b. IMMERSION DYEING AND DRAINING.
The frame carrying the fabric arranged as before described is immersed throughout
the whole height of the material in the vat containing the dyeing material. Its lower
end B is engaged in the socket fixed to the bottom of the vat and its upper end is
passed through the central opening in the cover. This at the moment preceding the 5
dyeing operation properly so called. For this purpose by means of a crank the eye
of which is adapted to the square head of the shaft of the frame, a slow rotary motion
is given to it which is prolonged during the immersion in the dyeing material. The
result of this motion is to render perfect the contact of the material with the dyeing
liquid and to prevent any spot or shade being produced thereon. After 10 to 20 1
minutes immersion the frame is withdrawn from the dyeing bath and it is suspended
above it by a support for draining. There is interposed between the cover of the
bath and the frame a concave plate provided with a central running off pipe. This
receives the drainage and restores it to the dyeing bath. During this latter operation
care should be taken to cover the frame with a tin covering closed laterally and at the
top. It has for effect to protect the material against the action of air and light.
C. FIRST WRINGING OR PRESSING.
After the draining the frame loaded with its fabric is placed in the extractor. This
is composed of a vessel without a bottom arranged vertically, or as I have before stated
it may be arranged horizontally. It is lined internally with sheet iron, cast or zinc,
and all its metallic parts are enamelled or tinned. An open cover provided with a
central ring of the same size as the upper end of the shaft, covers it. A bearing fixed
so that it may be opened at the centre of its lower part receives the end B of the
shaft of the frame while the end A of it passes through the central opening of the cover
just referred to. This latter being adjusted there is placed on the square head of the
shaft a pulley of small diameter in which a rope takes and thence to a driving wheel.
This may be driven either by the hand of the workman or by a motor or by any other
suitable power. The dimension of the pulleys and speed of the crank or motor are
proportioned in such manner as to impart to the frame a speed of 700 to 1200
revolutions a minute. Under the effect of this speed, and owing to the centrifugal a
force, the liquid contained in the fabric expelled and thrown against the sides of the
wringer or dryer. It is collected at the bottom of the latter in a reservoir from which
it is removed to be used again.
Figure 11 shews a wringer or dryer placed horizontally. The current of air
developed by the rotation of the frame enters the space existing between the folds of
the fabric rolled spirally, quickly and regularly effects the drying of the fabric.
On leaving the wringers it is taken by a covered into a passage thence to the
exterior.
After the first wringing the dye ought to be fixed on the fabric. With this object 4
the frame is immersed into a bath of essence of pure naphtha to which is added, if it is
required to revive the colour, a small quantity of acetic acid. This bath is contained
in a vessel identical with that employed for the dyeing bath before described. After
this immersion the frame is removed from this bath and drained in the manner before
described.

page_text: f and g. DRYING, PREPARATION AND CALENDERING.
After this operation the fabric always remaining on the frame is carried to the
drying apparatus which is accomplished according to the ordinary known processes,
after which it is for the first time detached from the frame and subjected to the
operations of preparation and calendering. These, which are the last operations
comprising my process, are carried out in the ordinary manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
1. The dyeing bath and each of the elements constituting same composed of material
as before specified.
2. The application in the operations of dyeing of the processes and apparatus before
described.
3. The process of cold dyeing by hydrocarbons especially ordinary naphtha,
consisting in combining the elements of dyeing with a mordant obtained by an
ammoniacal alcohol mixed with fatty acids which are oleic or margaric according to
the shades to be obtained that is oleic for pronounced shades, margaric for clear shades
and substantially as set forth.