IMPROVED ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES."
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Browning, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark,
North Britain, Engineer, for an Invention of "IMPROVED ATTACHMENTS
FOR SEWING MACHINES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Browning at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 4th October 1880..
GEORGE BROWNING, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain,
Engineer. "IMPROVED ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES."
This Invention, which relates to improved attachments for sewing machines,
consists in the first place of an embroidering attachment whereby one, two, three,
or more threads are embroidered together and sewn down on the cloth.
This improvement consists in driving the arm or arms which carry the
embroidering thread or threads by means of a face cam having a groove therein of
the requisite shape for producing the crossing and recrossing and tightening of the
embroidering threads, rollers or pins on the said arm or arms passing into the groove
in the said cam.
The arms are pivoted in a bracket piece, by which they are
attached to the head of a sewing machine. Parallel with the needle bar of the
machine is another vertical bar carried in the attachment, and whose upper part
engages with the needle bar so as to be driven upwards and downwards with it.
This bar carries a pawl which engages with teeth on the edge of the cam, and
rotates it for driving the embroidery leg or legs. The vertical rod or bar for
driving the pawl is not necessarily actuated by the needle bar, as it may be moved
from or by any other conveniently moveable part of a sewing machine.
"
JJ
The Invention consists in the second place of an improved arrangement for
driving what is known as a "kilter for sewing machines. This consists of a cam
having a groove of the requisite curved shape forined in its periphery, into which
the driving pin or roller of the "kilter
lever passes,
so that as the cam is
rotated the "kilter" lever is moved to and from the needle or feed. The cam is
provided with ratchet teeth on its periphery, and into these a pawl carried upon a
vertical bar moved by the needle bar, or moved by any other convenient part of a
sewing machine, engages, whereby the requisite movement of the cam and therefore
of the "kilter" is produced. The "kilter" lever has its throw or stroke varied by
means of the position of a pin in a slot therein, the said pin also passing through
a similar slot in another lever working against the face of the kilting lever.
The vertical rod carrying the pawl for driving either the embroidering mechanism
or the "kilter" bereinbefore described may be used for imparting motion to or
driving other sewing machine attachments which are not necessarily embroiderers
or "kilters."

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said George Browning in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 4th April
1881.
GEORGE BROWNING, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain,
Engineer. IMPROVED ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES."
"
My said Invention relates to improved attachments for sewing machines, and
consists in the first place of an embroidering attachment, whereby one, two,
three, or more threads are embroidered upon and sewn down to the cloth. In the
improved attachment for this purpose the arm or arms which carries or carry the
embroidery thread or threads is or are driven by means of a face cam having a
groove therein of the requisite shape for producing the crossing and recrossing and
tightening of the embroidering thread or threads, a roller or pin or rollers or pins on
the said arm or arms engaging in the groove in the said cam. The arm or arms is
or are pivotted in a bracket piece by which the said arm or arms is or are attached
to the head of a sewing machine. Parallel with the needle bar of the machine is
another vertical bar carried in guides in the attachment, the upper end of the
said bar engaging with the needle bar so as to be driven upwards and downwards
thereby, whereby a pawl carried by the said rod, by engaging in teeth in the edge
of the cam, rotates it, causing the groove in the said cam to give the necessary
motion to the arm or arms carrying the embroidery thread or threads. The said
rod for driving the cam may be operated from or by other convenient moving part
of a sewing machine in place of by the needle bar.
And in order that this part of my Invention may be properly understood I now
proceed more particularly to set forth the system, mode, or manner in or under
which the same is or may be used or practically carried into effect, reference being
had to Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings and to the letters and figures
marked thereon (the same letters indicating the same parts in all the Figures of
this Sheet) that is to say -
Figure 1 represents in front elevation, and Figures 2 and 3 in side elevation
(with the arms which carry the embroidery threads in different positions) the head
of a sewing machine, to which is applied an attachment constructed and arranged
according to this part of my Invention for embroidering two threads upon cloth.
Figures 4 to 8 are details, as hereinafter described.
A face cam A is mounted, so as to be capable of rotation, upon a pin b carried by the
bracket plate c secured to the side of the sewing machine head. This cam A is shewn
separately in Figure 4. The groove in the said cam A is marked a. The arms D
which carry the threads to be embroidered upon the cloth are pivotted or centred
at their upper ends by the pins d to the bracket plate c. Pins or rollers e on the said
arms engage in the groove a of the cam A. The bobbins F of embroidering threads
are carried by pins f¹ on a bracket piece f, shewn in Figure 1, and separately in
Figure 6 (the views being at right angles the one to the other). This bracket
piece is omitted from Figures 2 and 3 the more clearly to shew the other parts.
A bar or rod G is capable of sliding vertically in guides c² formed on the bracket
plate c, the upper end of the said rod G being connected to the needle bar h, from
which it receives a corresponding upwards and downwards movement.
The
connection of the said rod G to the needle bar h may be formed by the slack thread
pin ¹, as shewn separately in back view in Figure 8, the said slack thread
pin h¹ having a button or head h² at top, and a narrow neck with which engages a
fork g on the end of the said rod G. This rod is fixed in position by a set
screw h³ passing through the slot *, or other convenient means of connection may
be employed. The rod G carries a pawl g² which engages with a ratchet tooth of the
series of four formed on the edge of the face cam A at a³, a². The said pawl g¹is

page_text: The
shewn more clearly in Figure 2, where the rod G and its guide c² are in section. The
said pawl g is carried by a centre pin at g³ in a slot in the rod G, and is pressed into
contact with the edge of the cam by a spring g'. Another spring as presses upon
the edge of the cam A to retain it in position. The embroidery threads are led
from the bobbins F, F, respectively through tension pads d³ and through the
eyes d³ at the ends of the arms D, which arms D are bent out of the same vertical
plane at their lower parts to enable their said lower parts to cross each other.
embroidery threads are passed under the presser foot i, and when the machine
is in operation whilst the ordinary parts of the machine are sewing a stitch by the
ordinary stitching thread y in the ordinary manner, the pawl gå at each descent of
the needle bar h, by acting upon one of the ratchet teeth a² on the side of the cam A,
causes the said cam A to be turned through a quarter rotation, so that the cam groove a
therein so acts upon the pins e of the arms D as to cause the said arms to alternately
take the respective positions shewn in Figures 2 and 3, in taking each of which posi-
tions the arms D commence their movement after the needle has entered the cloth and
cross the embroidering threads a one over the other in front of the needle, as shewn
in the plan, Figure 5, of the lower parts of the arms D of the presser foot i; the
ordinary feed then passes forward the cloth, so that the needle makes its next
penetration beyond the crossed embroidery threads, and the ordinary stitch of the
needle embraces the said embroidery threads and sews them down to the cloth.
The cam A is preferably so formed, set, or mounted that each crossing is completed
in two movements of the arm or arms, a movement when the needle is in the cloth to
cross the threads in front of the needle, and a further movement to tighten up the
crossed threads just as the needle makes its next descent to make a stitch over the
crossed threads. This will be effected if the cam A is set upon its pin, so that on
the completion of each descent of the needle bar the pins e, e, will be a little to the
rear of the part of the groove a nearest to or farthest from the centre of the cam
instead of quite arriving into the position, Figures 2 and 3. Portions of the embroidery
threads as crossed by the herein before described attachment and sewn down to the
cloth by the ordinary stitch are shewn in Figure 7. In this Figure the two
embroidery threads are respectively marked x and x2, and the sewing down
stitches made in the ordinary way, are marked y'. It will readily be understood
that there may be but one arm, or that an embroidery thread may be led to but
one of the two arms, and that this thread will be crossed from one side of the
needle to the other and sewn down to the cloth essentially as described, and also
that two or more threads may be led through one or more eyes of either or both of
the arms in order to produce an embroidering effect of more than two colours or
kinds of thread. Although I have used the term "embroidery threads " yet it will
be understood that I intend thereby to include such ornamental cords, twists,
braids, or threads as can conveniently be operated by the mechanism described.
My Invention consists, in the second place, of an improved attachment or arrange-
ment for sewing machines for driving what is known as a kilter." This consists
of a cam having a groove of the requisite curved shape formed on its periphery,
into which groove the driving pin or roller of the kilter lever passes, so that as the
cam is rotated the kilter lever is moved to and from the needle and feed. The cam is
provided with ratchet teeth on its periphery, and into these a pawl carried by a
vertical bar moved by the needle bar, or moved by any other convenient part of a
sewing machine engages, whereby the requisite movement of the cam and therefrom
of the kilter is produced. The kilter lever has its throw or stroke varied by means
of the position of a pin in a slot therein, the said pin also passing through a similar
slot in another lever worked against the face of the kilting lever.
And in order that this part of my Invention may be properly understood I now
proceed more particularly to set forth, with reference to Sheet 2 of the
accompanying Drawings, the system, mode, or manner in or under which this
part of my Invention is or may be used or carried into effect, that is to say,-
Figures 9 and 10 are front elevations (respectively representing different positions
of the kilter lever and plate), and Figure 11 is a side elevation of the head of a

page_text: sewing machine to which a "kilter" attachment is applied in accordance with my
Invention; Figures 12 and 13 are plans of the presser foot and kilter plate and
cloth, being operated upon the said Figures representing these parts in positions
corresponding respectively with those shewn in Figures 9 and 10; Figure 14 is a
development of the cam groove of the cam.
The bracket plate c, rod G, and pawl g², are all essentially similar to those of the
attachment herein first described and illustrated on Sheet 1 of the accompanying
Drawings, and the said rod and pawl are caused by the descent of the needle bar h
to act upon the cam A³ in essentially the same manner as that in which they
operate in the said arrangement, Sheet 1, the said rod G being attached to the said
needle bar, as described with regard to the said arrangement, Sheet 1.
The cam A2 is mounted upon a pin b fixed in the bracket plate c, and the said
cam A has formed in its edge a cam groove a, which at each revolution of the
said cam will so operate upon the kilter J as to bring the kilter plate K from the
position Figure 9 to that Figure 10, and then back again to the position Figure 9.
To obtain this motion the pawl g² acts upon a series of ratchet teeth a' formed on
or fixed to the back of the cam A2, so that a complete revolution is given to the
cam A to make a "kilt" or "pleat" in the cloth being operated upon at any suitable
interval. In the example shewn in the Drawings there is a "kilting" or "pleat" formed
at every six stitches of the needle. A pin or roller upon the lever L engages in
the groove a in the cam A³, the said lever L being centred at 2 to the bracket
plate c. This lever L is attached to the kilter lever proper (J) at 3 by a screw pin
capable of adjustment in the slots in the two levers (marked and respectively)
in accordance with the width of "kilting" or "pleating" required. The said lever J is
centred to the bracket plate at 1, and carries at its lower end an end piece j², to
which is attached the kilter plate K, which is formed with serrations or teeth at
its front edge, as shewn at Figures 12 and 13. The end piece 2 is adjustable upon
the lever J in accordance with the size of the machine, and to give a proper bearing
of the kilter plate K upon the cloth plate k upon which it works, the said kilter
plate K being preferably formed of spring steel. The part is fixed in its proper
position on the lever J by the screws j³. When the machine is in action, the parts
being in the position Figure 9, the needle penetrates the "kilted" or "pleated" cloth
(the recesses in the kilter plate allowing of the passage of the needle), and there-
after the partial rotation of the cam A2 (during, in the example shewn, the next two
stitches) causes the kilter plate K to retreat to the position Figure 10, and then, on
the further rotation of the said cam during the next stitches, the said kilter plate K
comes again forward into the position Figure 9, the serrated or toothed edge of the
said plate bearing into or upon the said cloth, and bringing with it a fold, "kilt,"
or "pleat" to be sewn down by the needle. It will be evident that the number of
teeth a² may be varied in accordance with the feed of the cloth and the number of
stitches which will sew down each fold, "kilt," or "pleat." The ratchet teeth a*
may be upon a disc fixed to the back of the cam A2, so as to be removeable
therefrom for the substitution of discs with other number of teeth. The stroke of
the kilter plate will of course be adjusted so as to give a
"kilt" or pleat of a
width equal to the distance through which the cloth is fed at each rotation of the
cam A. The feed and stitching mechanism are or may be of the ordinary kind,
and act to feed forward and sew down the "kilted or "pleated" cloth in the
manner in which they act in ordinary plain cloth sewing.
"
"
13
In both the attachments described the motion of the cams (A and A2) instead of
being obtained, the needle bar, as shewn, may be obtained from other convenient
moving part of the sewing machine with which they are combined, which will give
the requisite motions.
The arrangement for driving the cam for operating the embroidering arms
(Sheet 1) or the kilter (Sheet 2) directly from the needle bar (by means of the bar G
and pawl g2) may be used for imparting motion to, or driving cams for actuating,
other sewing machine attachments for analogous purposes to those described, and
where such attachments are capable of being so actuated.

page_text: The hereinbefore described attachments may be readily removed from the machine
when it is desired to use it for ordinary sewing.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the system, mode, or manner in or under which the same is or
may be used or practically carried into effect, I would observe in conclusion that
what I consider to be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention
secured to me by the hereinbefore in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First. The improved attachment for sewing machines, consisting of the mechanisin
for embroidering or sewing down upon the cloth an ornamental thread or threads or
cord or cords or the like, the said attachment being constructed and combined and
operating with the machine essentially as hereinbefore described with reference to
Figures 1 to 8 (Sheet 1) of the accompanying Drawings.
"
"
Second. The improved attachment for sewing machines, consisting of the
mechanism for kilting or pleating" the cloth as it is sewn, the said
attachment being constructed and combined and operating with the machine
essentially as herein before described with reference to Figures 9 to 14 (Sheet 2) of
the accompanying Drawings.
Third. The combination, in attachments for sewing down upon the cloth, an
ornamental thread or cord or threads or cords or the like, of a cam (A) and an arm
or arms (D) operated thereby, the movement of the said cam being obtained from a
moving part of the ordinary mechanism of a sewing machine essentially as herein-
before described with reference to Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings.
"
Fourth. The combination, in attachments for “kilting" or "pleating" cloth being
sewn in sewing machines, of a cam (A2) and a "kilter" lever operated thereby,
the movement of the said cam being obtained from a moving part of the ordinary
mechanism of a sewing machine essentially as hereinbefore described with reference
to Sheet 2 of the accompanying Drawings.
Fifth. In attachments for sewing machines for embroidering or for "kilting" or
pleating" or for analogous purposes the rod G and pawl g² combined with the
said attachments for imparting motion directly from the needle bar to the operating
mechanism af the said attachments, essentially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Browning, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this First day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty one.
CATA װװ
DDAWATTATA
GEORGE BROWNING. (L.S.)