Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Sept., 1891--Accepted, 20th Feb., 1892

page_text: Figs. 1 & 2 & 3 & 6 and united with them are the spring boxes 14, all as in an
ordinary double Jacquard machine; 15 & 15' are the upper dogs or hooks for
turning the cylinders in the positif direction; 16 and 161 are similar hooks for
turning the cylinders backwards; they take hold of the pillars of the turniquets or
lanterns 17 and 171 as usual.
So far as described the machine does not differ from an ordinary Jacquard
machine with two cylinders, the one working for the figure, the other for the
ground binding, it was however tliought desirable to give its general description
for the sake of a better understanding of the following improvements and the
manner of their working in the loom.
On a bar 18 screwed against the main frame 19 of the machine I fix a bolt 20
(Fig. 3 & 4); this bolt carries a lantern 21 similar to the lanterns of the cylinders
and rotating on that bolt; at the back or inner side two cams, 22 & 23, are fixed
thereon, having thumbs or projections of different lengths.
The lantern 21 is governed by a hook 24 joined to the oscillating lever 61 of
the ground cylinder 7 and going backwards and forwards with the same, and thus
it is able to turn the lantern 21 and also the cams 22 & 23; When there are more
than four thumbs required,-(this depends upon the design to be woven and on the
manner of binding)-it is recommended to use instead of the cams the cam chain 25,
as shown in Fig. (8), which is then placed around discs fixed to the lantern in place
of the cams themselves.
The hook 15 governing the figure cylinder 7 is provided with a roller 26 resting
upon one or the other of the cams 22 or 23 respectively according to their position.
As will be seen from Figs. 4 & 7 the lantern 21 together with the cams 22 & 23,
or cam chains respectively, can be shifted lengthways upon the bolt 20 by means
of a forked lever 27 having its fulcrum upon a bracket 28 fixed against the
frame of the machine, the forked end of the lever takes hold of the inner disc 29
of the lantern and it will thus be seen how the latter can be shifted forwards and
backwards so as to bring either of the cams 22 or 23 below and in connection with
the roller 26 of the hook 15. I shall explain further on when this will be
required, it will however be remarked that, according to the radius of excentricity
of the cam, standing below the roller 26 at a certain moment, the hook 15 may
be brought within or without reach of the pillars of the lantern 17, in which
latter case no turning of the cylinder will take place, or it may be raised so much
that the lower hook 16 will engage with these pillars and then the lantern will
be turned backwards and the cylinder also (Figs. 11, 12 & 13).
By this means it is possible to bring a new card before the needle board at every
stroke or the same card may be brought into action repeatedly or a precceding
card may be turned on a second time by being turned backwards.
Now the cams 22 and 23, or cam chains respectively, are so proportioned, that
when the one is governing the turning of the cylinder 17, the figure produced will be
the reciprocal of that woven when the other cam is in action, that is to say, that in
using the sanie cards, the same figure will be produced but in opposite direction
without requiring changing of the cards to produce this change in the position of
the figure, as is the case for instance, in making pieces of cloth changing alternately
the figure, or when a figured symetrical border has to be made to the second or
opposite side of the one woven first of a shawl.
The cylinder 7 makes a quarter turn at every stroke or for every ground
binding and therefore I connect with it for ordinary goods the arrangement which
I have invented for saving the ordinary blind cards, also this device must not
necessarily be driven from this cylinder. The Figures, 1, 3, 4 & 13 show this
arrangement, which is as follows:
Before the lantern 21 I mount upon the bolt 20 another lantern 21ª governed
by a hook 24 of the oscillating lever of the ground cylinder, and to this lantern
is fixed a double cam 30 upon which bears a rocking lever 30 which is raised and
lowered by the action of the cam every alternate stroke; at the end of this lever
I fix a strap 31 (see detail Figures 10 & 13), the other end of which is secured to

page_text: the periphery of a pulley 32 in such a manner that the strap is wound off when
the lever is raised and that by unwinding it turns the pulley and its spindle 33.
On the same spindle 33 is keyed another roller 34 and to the circumference of
this is also fixed the end of a strap 35, the other end of which hangs downwards
and is fastened to the foot 36 of a plate of sheet iron 37 reaching below the centre
of the spindle 33 even in its highest position.
This plate 37 is the base of my whole invention. By its means I can save a
large number of cards, the usual blind cards completely, and it enables me to attain
the other objects named above, as making the essential of my invention.
The belts 31 and 35 of the rollers 32 and 34 are wound round the latter in
opposite directions, so that when the over 30 is raised and 32 is turned by the
unwinding of 31, the belt. 35 is wound on round 34 and thus pulls the foot 36 and
its plate 37 upwards.
This plate 37 which I name permanent blind card is guided in front by a bar 38
and in suitable slots sideways that it will come to stand directly before the needle
board of the figure cylinder when it is raised by the mechanisms described above.
The action of the permanent blind card and of the gearing described is, that it
will be raised and brought before the needle board of the figure cylinder 7 every
alternate stroke and it does the same work as if blind cards as usual were bound in
alternate rows between the figure cards. The ordinary blind cards in the chain of
cards can therefore be dispensed with, only half the number of cards is required,
and the action of the figure card facing the needle board at the time when the
permanent blind card is raised is neutralized, that is to say, because it strikes against
the permanent blind card the action will be as if an ordinary blind card had been
bound in the chain of cards alternately after a figure card.
Now by means of the cams 22 or cam chains, described above, the turning of
the figure cylinder can be regulated at will so that no turning takes place during
the stroke when the permanent blind card is raised, and the same figure card will
of course come in action a second time, when the blind card 37 is lowered and the
figure card will now act upon the needles and lifting wires as usual. The permanent
blind card may be divided into two parts crossways, both parts acting together or
singly and it is not absolutely necessary that it is raised mechanically, but the
raising and lowering may be done by hand in the simplest manner.
So far as described the use of my permanent blind card gives a saving of half
the number of cards in a chain. Its use however permits wearing with a further
reduction of half the number of figure cards without materially influencing the
beauty of a design or the quality of the fabric.
To that end I proceed as follows:
I draw the pattern on the point paper instead of 10: 16, for instance, in the ratio
of 16:8 and of course I so need only half the number of cards, but I shoot two wefts
for every figure card which is kept inactif on account of the permanent blind card
being brought before the needle board. The ground is bound as usually by means
of the few cards placed round the ground cylinder. The unarmed eye does not
observe the least difference in the contour of the figure, whilst it must be admitted
that in reality and looked at through an eye glass the continuity of the contour
lines is more broken, but considering the fineness of the threads, weft and warp,
especially in silk, this is of little consequence, the less so because in most cases the
changes of two threads following are very small.
Before proceeding in the description of the mechanical part of my invention and
the use of the permanent blind card I will explain its manner of working and its
use in connection with an ordinary piece of double cloth, with silk top and a cotton
ground, showing silk warp and weft at top, cotton and silk weft at bottom and
being bound by the separate silk ground warp.
The pattern required for making for instance a plain circular design is shown in
Figs. 17 & 18.
The weaver will understand from it how to proceed for any other more or less
complicated design or fancy binding.

page_text: .
Every card of the lifting wires is tied to 9 cords (neck twines) for raising the
shafts and heddles and the harness is arranged in two sets or corps; 8 cords (40)
being used for the front corps and one (41) for the back corps as shown in Fig 15.
The figure warp being bound in satin these threads are drawn into the sixteen
heddles 42 of the first corps, the ground warp being drawn through the four
shafts 43 of the back corps, because they are to be bound in four leafed tweel.
The binding or ground warp is further drawn through four heddles having long
eyes of leaves or shafts 44 in front of the harness, in the same order as they are
drawn into the heddles of the back corps, thus the first leat in front corresponds
with the first in the second corps and the second in front with the second shaft of
the back corps and so on.
The shafts of the second corps as well as the leaves with long eyed heddles in
front are connected to the lifting wires of the ground cylinder by means of
twines 45, 46, 47.
The weft consists alternately:
1.) Of a cotton ground weft, which is bound by the figure warp by means of
the sixteen shafts 42 of the front corps in eight leafed satin by alternately
raising two shafts 42 of the front corps and bound in four leafed tweel (that no
hollow fabric will be the result) by means of the four leaves of the back corps.
2.) Of a silk weft, forming the figure and being bound upon the right side by
pulling down one of the four front leaves, as shown by Figure 14. On the left
or back side this silk weft is bound by means of the shafts of the second or
back corps.
Therefore whenever the silk weft shall be visible and come to affect on the
right side, the corresponding threads of the figure warp and of the ground warp
will be raised into the upper shed.
The other warp threads remain down in the lower shed. Now this weft
would be floating partly on the right side and partly on the left side. In order
to prevent this, as indicated above, when making the first silk weft, the first
shaft of the second corps is raised but at the same time the second leaf of the
four front shafts is pulled down; with the second silk weft the second shaft of
the second corps is raised and at the same time the third leaf of the front shafts
is lowered so as to obtain the tweel binding as desired.
In the patterns shown by Figs. 17 & 18 the crossed squares in No. I indicate
the silk weft and those marked by a straight line indicate the cotton weft.
The cards for the cotton weft are blind cards, because they have only pierced
the black dots at the beginning and at the end, and making by means of the
shafts in the harness the satin of the figure warp and binding of the silk weft.
No lifting wire which is connected to the harness must be raise by these cards.
As said above I use no real blind cards and I realize the raising of the shafts
in the harness by means of the ground cylinder, for which 16 cards are sufficient
for binding the cotton weft as well as the silk weft.
Now both cylinders act simultaneously but when the cotton weft is shot in, no
threads shall be raised by the action of the figure cylinder and now the permanent
blind card together with the mechanism for governing the figure cylinder must
act, the first must be raised and the latter must prevent the turning of the cylinder
so that no lifting wire of the harness can be raised.
I will now proceed to explain the use of my permanent blind card for making
cloths of varied design in the middle and having a figurative border, without
changing the cards of the figure cylinder.
I again bind the ground by means of the ground cylinder and the figure by using
the second cylinder in combination with my permanent blind card, which however
I now divide in two parts, one part acting upon or covering that part of the
cylinder and needle board where are placed the needles for making the border, the
other part covering that side of the cylinder and needle board where the needles
for making the inner part of the cloth are arranged.
The cards used for the ground cylinder are punched for 5 five different manners of

page_text: binding, five rows for the border and five rows for the middle part, and the needle
board before the ground cylinder is so arranged that it can be shifted lengthways
so as to bring either of the rows of holes before the acting needles.
I wish it to be understood that the use of a needle board which can be shifted
lengthways is not new and is not my invention but its combination with my per-
manent blind cards and for the purpose in view is new, and it is this combination
which makes it possible to produce the cloths mentioned and must therefore and
for clearness sake also describe and show the mechanism employed for shifting the
needle board (Figs. 20 & 21).
To the frame of the Jacquard machine is fixed a bracket 50 serving as support.
and fulcrum for a lever 51", the one end of which grasps a bolt 52 projecting from
the needle board 53, therefore when the lever is turned one way or the other, the needle
board is shifted to the right or towards the left side, slots 54, by means of which it
is held on the bolts 55, allowing this reciprocation.
In order to secure the lever 51" and the needle board in a certain position a
bracket 56 is arranged, provided with holes 57 into which a pin holding the lever
fast, is stuck.
Now in order to weave a piece of cloth, or several together, side by side, such as
neck cloths for instance, having an edge made in satin, then a figurative border laid
in satin ground and then a middle part made in alternative rows or stripes of any
sort of tweel or other fancy binding changing with rows of satin with any figurative
design I proceed as follows:
The edge is woven in satin, both permanent blind cards pulled up and brought
before the needle board, that no figure can be made but only plain satin; then both
blind cards are pulled down,-(this is for simplicity sake and by preference done
by hand, though it might be done mechanically by a cam)-for making the
figurative border all across the cloth; with the ground cylinder, the holes punched
for satin binding remain in action all the time. After the figurative border has
been completed along the whole width of the cloth and the middle part shall be
made in alternate rows, as stated above of tweel and other fancy bindings,
changing with a figurative satin portion; the border in longitudinal direction
receiving the same design as the border going crossways, that part of the permanent
blind card standing before the needles governing the warp of the middle part will
be raised, and the needle board of the ground cylinder is shifted sideways in order
now to bring in action the holes in the cards making tweel or the desired fancy
binding.
However in that part of the cards where the figurative border shall be formed
in satin along side on the cloth, they are punched with a double row of holes for
satin, so that the shifting of the cards does not alter this part of the weaving, but
brings again satin holes into action.
After having finished a row of fancy binding in the middle part, the permanent
blind card is lowered again and the needle board before the ground cylinder is
shifted again into its place for satin binding, so as to produce now a row with a
figurative design in the middle in satin ground, the border being woven as before.
The cards making the design in the middle part having of course been placed round
the figure cylinder beforehand, the permanent blind card having been raised, those
cards did not influence the needles.
By means of the same arrangement figures and designs may be made of various
widths and lengths or designs of different sizes may be woven by using the same
cards and simply tying several heddles to the same cord going through the harness
board and which are then raised together, and by then placing a corresponding
number of wefts without changing the cards and keeping the blind card raised.
The arrangement of the permanent blind card for this sort of weaving is shown
in Fig. 19.
As stated above, I divide the blind card in front of the figure cylinder in two
parts 58 & 59, one part serving for making the border, the other for making the
middle part of the cloth. The cards are. divided accordingly, that is to say one

page_text: part of each card is punched to suit for making the figurative border, the other
part to suit to the sort of binding in the middle part.
prefer raising and lowering these blind cards by hand because they have not
to be moved so often and instead of suspending them on a lever governed
mechanically arrange them as shown by Fig. 19. Into the foot or shank of each
card is cut a slot 59 by means of which they are guided upon a pin 60 driven into
the frame of the machine, a counterweight 61 serving to keep the cards in equi-
librium in the upper and lower position, the weight being for that purpose suspended
on a cord 62, which is laid round the pin 60 and fixed by its other end to the lowest
part of the blind card as shown.
As the third object of my invention I have stated the making of damask in the
power loom. This is realized by the use of the improvements already described in
combination with the following arrangement.
In order to be able to do away with the treddles now in use for making damask
acting upon the eight leaves in front of the harness and making the ground binding,
I connect the lifting wires of the ground cylinder by means of cords 64 with
levers 65 of the device shown in Figs. 22-28.
These eight levers 65 are mounted in a bracket 66, a pin 67 limiting their
downstroke. To the free end of the levers 65 is connected by a link joint a thin
bar 68 of peculiar shape and forming a hook 69 about in the middle of its length,
the lower end being reduced in width forming a recess 70 as shown. The exact
position of the hook 69 and of the recess 70 is determined as follows: Below the
levers 65 there are other double armed levers 71 arranged in the bracket 66, and
arms. 72 stand out horizonnally from the bracket 66 & carrying an iron cross bar 72ª
in such a position, that when the levers 65 with the bars 68 are led down in their
lower position the broad part of these bars still bears against the cross bar 72"
whereas a short rise of 65 & 68 suffices to cause the latter to advance and to bring
the thin tail end to bear against the cross bar.
The bars 68 are held in slots or forks between the levers 65 and in a similar
manner they enter into the open ends of the lower levers 71 and across the slots of
the latter are driven pins 73 into which the hooks 69 engage when the levers 65
and the bars 68 are raised and in order that this may take place with certainty,
springs 74 fixed between 65 and 68 pull the latter always inwards, that is towards
the levers 65 and towards the pins 73. The other ends of the double levers 71 are
connected to the long cross levers 75 by means of cords 75" and to the free ends
of the cross levers 75 are fixed cords 76 passing through the holes or a sort of grate,
of a separate bracket 77 within of which they carry weights 78 and outside of which,
that is above its top bar they are provided with knots which prevent the levers
being pulled down deeper than is desirable.
This apparatus as described and shown is so arranged in or under the loom that
the levers 75 will come to lie just before and parallel to the harness or parallel
to the weft, the levers 71 coming to be placed in the middle below the warp and
parallel thereto.
VIII.) by mean's
The levers 75 are connected to eight shafts 79 (I., II.
of cords 80 and the upper bars of these shafts are provided with cords 81 at each
side of the same, being carried upwards around rollers 82 held on pins fixed to the
frame work of the loom, and the cords and rollers 81 & 82 are arranged in such
order, that the first leaf 79' is by the other end of its cord S1 connected to the
leaf 79, the second to the sixth, the third to the seventh the fourth to the eighth
as shown by Fig. 22, whence it follows that when No. I. will be raised No. V. will
go down and so on and vice versa.
The action of the arrangement is now as follows: When the Jacquard machine
is set to work one of the cords 64 being pulled up by its lifting wire will also
raise its corresponding lever 65, the hook 69 of the bar 68 will seize the pin 73
and thus the double lever 71 will be raised at this side, the other arm of this
lever will go down and will pull downwards its corresponding lever 75 and this
then again pulls down the leaf to which it is connected by the cords 75ª and by

page_text: means of the cords and pullies 81 & 82 the fifth leaf following in order will be
raised.
The free descent and return in normal position will be effected by the counter
weights 78 at the end of the lever 75.
In order to prevent that the hooks 69 will hinder the levers 71 from going
down at this side and to ensure the free passage of the pins 73 before the hooks
the bars 68 are made larger between 69 & 70 as shown and only below 70 they
are reduced in width; this causes the bars 68 to be pushed backwards when the
recess at 70 slides along the cross bar 72 and thus the hooks are brought out
of reach of the pins 73 in the slots of the levers 71.
Now in working with my Jacquard machine the ground cylinder makes a
quarter turn at every stroke, whereas by using my device for governing the figure
cylinder, the latter will only be turned as will be desired and depending upon the
form of the cams or cam chains 20, 23, 25 and it will therefore be easily understood
that the leaves 79 can be so worked as is required for making damask by setting in
action the machine by a single treddle and the treddles formerly used for working
these leaves may be dispensed with.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1.) In a Jacquard machine the permanent blind card 37 for the sake of saving
cards in the ordinary chain of cards.
2.) The two permanent blind cards 58 & 59 as set forth and for the purpose
described.
3.) The cam device (Fig. 7 & 8) for governing and regulating the motion of the
figure cylinder as set forth.
4.) The double regulating cam device 20, 21, 30 (Fig. 7 & 8) for regulating the
cards as set forth and for the purpose described.
5.) The device for making damask in the power loom in combination with the
cam device (Fig. 1) or with the double cam device (Fig. 7) as set forth.
Dated this 29th day of August 1891.
KARL J. MATER,
Agent for G. Reuter.