IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFAC- TURE OF HEAD COVERINGS, & IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THERE WITH
Year: 1875

page_text: ETTERS PATENT to Joseph Bouton Crosby, of New York, United
States of America, at present of 123, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFAC-
TURE OF HEAD COVERINGS, & IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED
THERE WITH."-A communication from abroad by Henry Kellogg, of
Milford, County of New Haven, State of Connecticut, United States
of America.
caled the 27th April 1875, and dated the 28th January 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Bouton Crosby
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 28th January 1875.
I, JOSEPH BOUTON CROSBY, of New York, United States of America,
at present of 123, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF HEAD COVERINGS, & IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED
THEREWITH," a communication to me from abroad by Henry Kellogg, of

page_text: Milford, County of New Haven, State of Connecticut, United States of
America, (to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to improvements in the method of forming the
bodies of caps and similar head coverings, to give to them the shapes
known as "jockey," "turban," and other styles, the object being to
produce the caps whole in a single picce instead of several pieces, as in
the usual practice of "making up" such caps, and the Invention
consists in the methods as hercin-after described for blocking the caps,
whereby the cap is made complete in a single piece.
In the accompanying Drawings Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the
jockey cap; Fig. 2, central section of same.
Fig. 3, perspective view of block.
Figs. 4 and 7, side views of the turban style; Figs. 5 and 8 central
-sections of same.
Figs. 6 and 9, side view of the body.
I will first describe the method of making the " 'jockey cap" as
illustrated in Figs. 1, 2, 3.
The block is formed down to the broken line a of the form required
for the crown of the cap, thence extending down a distance cqual at
least to the depth of the band or fold required, and in the front project-1
ing as at B in the form of the "visor" or front. On this block the body
of the cap is formed, and after having been blocked by the usual process
the body is cut around the outer edge of the projection B to the point d
upon opposite sides; then the part of the body below is cut vertically at
the lines ; the part of the body below the line a is then turned up as
at e, Fig. 2, and the two ends of that portion previously cut as at bare
brought together at the front, as seen at D, Fig. 1, which completes the
cut and forming of the body.
I will next proceed to describe the method of making the style of cap
known as "turban" shape, and as illustrated in Figs. 4, 5, 6. A' is the
crown; B¹, the band doubled up around the crown, as seen in Fig. 2.
In order to thus double the lower edge or band up on to the crown
the body is shaped or blocked, as seen in Fig. 6.
The crown A¹ down to the lower line is of the usual form. At this
line around the crown a shoulder a¹ is formed, enlarging the circum-

page_text: ference on that line. From this shoulder the body extends down equal
to the width of the band B. As the crown receeds from this shoulder a¹
the band portion B' is contracted accordingly from the shoulder a¹ down
to the edge, as seen in Fig. 6. The body completed and finished by
being coated with fur or otherwise the band portion is doubled or folded
úp upon the crown, as seen in Fig. 5, the shape of the band portion
causing it to lie flat upon the crown all around..
It will be understood that the shaping or blocking is done upon a block
of corresponding shape. In the manufacture of this class of caps it has
been the usual practice to make the band in a separate piece and stitch
it to the lower edge of the crown, but by this improvement I am enabled
to produce the cap in a single piece and in a far more perfect manner,
and at a considerable saving in cost.
The style of turban shown is the sloping back and vertical front, but
it will be understood that the same method applies to all styles of turban
or double band.
I will now proceed to describe a m.dification of the turban style as
shown in Figs. 7, 8, 9. The body is formed upon a block, the upper part
of which shapes the crown A". At the point in the crown where the
band is to be formed two offsets a" and 6" are formed extending around
the body, so that the lower part of the body is increased in diameter the
extent of these offsets. The depth of the body from the lower offset 6"
being a little more than the width of the band required. Then a fold
upward is made at the offset a" to carry the offset 6" above it, as seen in
Fig. 8. This lays a fold around the body to indicate the band.
The offsets, as they approach the rear, change their form somewhat,
because as the part between a" and " must lie flat upon the crown the
angle of that portion must be the reverse of the angle of the crown, as
seen in Fig. 9. The lower edge of the body may be turned inward to
finish that edge.
Thus I complete the "turban" style of cap, the body of which is in a
single and continuous piece, the band represented over nearly its extent.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Joseph Bouton Crosby in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 28th July 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
BOUTON CROSBY, of New York, United States of America, at present of
123, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of January, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Joseph Bouton Crosby, Her special
licence that I, the said Joseph Bouton Crosby, my executors, admini-
strators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Joseph Bouton
Crosby, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Ise of Man, an Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HEAD COVERINGS, AND IN THE
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," (a communication to me
from abroad by Henry Kellogg, of Milford, County of New Haven,
State of Connecticut, United States of America,) upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Joseph Bouton Crosby, my exccutors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describo and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Bouton Crosby, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Sheet of Drawings (that is to say( :-
:-
This Invention relates to improvements in the method of forming the
bodies of caps and similar head coverings, to give to them the shapes

page_text: known as "jockey," "turban," and other styles, the object being to
produce the caps whole in a single piece instead of several pieces, as in
the usual practice of "making up" such caps, and the Invention consists
in the methods as herein-after described for blocking the caps, whereby
the cap is made complete in a single piece.
In the accompanying Drawings Fio 1 is a perspective view of the

page_text: to the edge, as seen in Fig. 6, the forming of the body being now
complete, and the cap is finished by being coated with fur or otherwise,
the band portion B' being doubled or folded up upon the crown, as seen
in Figs. 4 and 5, the shape of the band portion causing it to lie flat upon
the crown all around.
5
It will be understood that the shaping or blocking is done upon a
block of corresponding shape. In the manufacture of this class of caps
it has been the usual practice to make the band in a separate piece and
stitch it to the lower edge of the crown, but by this improvement I am
enabled to produce the cap in a single piece and in a far more perfect 1
manner and at a considerable saving in cost.
The style of turban shown is the sloping back and vertical front, but
it will be understood that the same method applies to all styles of turban
or double band.
I will now proceed to describe a modification of the turban style as 1
shewn in Figs. 7, 8, 9. The body is formed upon a block, Fig. 9, the
upper part of which shapes the crown A". At the point in the crown
where the band is to be formed two offsets a¹¹ and 6" are formed extend-
ing around the body, so that the lower part of the body is increased in
diameter the extent of these offsets. The depth of the body from the 2
lower offset 6" being a little more than the width of the band required.
Then a fold upward is made at the offset a" to carry the offset b¹¹ above
it, as seen in Fig. 8. This lays a fold around the body to indicate the
band.
The offsets as they approach the rear change their form somewhat 2
because as the part between a" and 6" must lie flat upon the crown the
angle of that portion must be the reverse of the angle of the crown as
seen at S, Fig. 9. The lower edge of the body may be turned inward to
finish that edge.
Thus I complete the "turban" style of cap, the body of which is in a 3
single and continuous piece, the band represented over nearly its extent
by a single thickness of that body.
Having now described the nature and particulars of the said Invention
I claim,―

page_text: Second. A "turban" cap, the crown and band of which are formed in
the same body, with a shoulder or offset a¹ at the lower line of the crown,
and the band portion below the offset constructed to correspond to the
same portion of the crown above the offset, substantially as specified.
Third. A cap body of the form substantially as described, having the
offsets a, b, formed therein, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Bouton Crosby, have
hercunto set my hand and seal, this Second day of July, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and soventy-
five.
JOSEPH BOUTON CROSBY. (L.S.)