IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINERY
Year: 1885

page_text: "
I, THOMAS WRIGHT of 320 Woodborough Road, Nottingham in the County of
Nottingham Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my said invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINERY to be as follows, that is to say:-
My said Invention has for its object the embroidering of woven or other fabrics
by means of improved machinery operating expeditiously and economically, and
simultaneously producing several repeats of the pattern or ornamental device.
In my improved machinery a number of vertical needles are arranged to produce
a chain stitch in a well known mode, these needles working vertically and
penetrating the fabric from above whilst the fabric which is horizontal at the part
operated on is moved or shogged between the actions of the needles so that the
stitches may succeed each other in the directions required for producing the desired
ornamental figuring. A single fabric may be operated on in this way, or two or
more plies may be stitched together in the process, and portions may be afterwards
cut away to produce particular ornamental effects. The shogging or moving of
the fabric for the purpose of producing the design may be effected or controlled
by hand, or the machinery may be entirely automatic, Jacquard or other suitable
pattern apparatus being employed.
The needle used has a notch or hook on one side near the point, and when the
point has penetrated through the fabric the thread which is supplied below the
fabric is placed in the notch by a peculiar spring finger or guide. The needle in
rising draws a loop of the thread up through the fabric and the fabric being then
moved, the needle in again descending leaves the loop upon the upper side and
draws the next loop up through it as well as through the fabric, the successive loops
being in this way linked to each other and forming a chain. When the direction
of any stitch has to be changed from that of the preceding stitch, or in other
words at each change in the direction of the shogging movement, the needle and
also the finger or guide below must have their positions correspondingly changed
in order that the fresh loops may be formed properly and with certainty. The
lengths of the stitches or the extent of the shogging movements may be varied
but if kept uniform throughout each piece of work it will be obvious all that has
to be done to form a pattern is to give the necessary directions to the successive
shogging movements and to correspondingly change the positions of the needles
and their thread guides or fingers.

page_text: The move-
The part of the fabric which is being operated upon is stretched on a smooth
horizontal surface formed on a fixed bar having holes in it for the operation of the
several needies; and the fabric is shogged or moved over the fixed bar by an upper
movable shogging bar the underside of which is covered with rubber, velvet cloth
or other suitable frictional material, or is roughened in any suitable way so as to
act frictionally on the fabric and move it over the smooth fixed bar.
ment of the shogging bar as regards extent is determined by the vertical movements
of two or more shogging pieces or shoggers, and the direction of the movement is
determined by the position of these shoggers, which act on conical or bevilled
surfaces in holes or sockets formed in the shogging bar or in pieces fixed to it.
Each shogger is a diametrical piece relatively to its hole or socket and when
descending being guided vertically so as not to deviate laterally, one end of it acts
according to its position on the bevilled surface of the hole or socket and operating
like a wedge moves the shogging bar in the direction corresponding to its position.
After each shogging movement the shogging bar is raised and also the shoggers
and these parts return to their normal positions through the action of reversed
bevilled or inclined surfaces.
The thread guide or finger for laying the thread in the notch or hook of the
needle may be conveniently made out of spring wire the lower part of which is
formed into a tubular coil and fixed in a wheel or holder fitted so as to be capable
of turning about a vertical axis coincident with that of the needle. The thread
passes up from below through the centre of the holder and the spring coil and then
through a guide eye formed at the other end of the wire which is bended down &
little from its highest point and which is made with a lateral elbow bend between
its highest point and the coil. The guide or finger is made to lay the thread round
about the needle by the action on its elbow of an annular surface which moving
vertically at the proper time makes it carry the thread past the needle at one side
and subsequently allows it to return by its spring action past the other side of the
needle. This bevilled surface being annular as described acts on the thread guide
or finger, into whatever position that finger has been turned, in concert with the
turning of the needle and of the shoggers.
The vertical movements are produced by cams on a main shaft; and the turning
movements for the needles, thread guides or fingers, and shoggers, are imparted to
the holders of these parts by any suitable mechanism such as wormwheels or spur-
wheels formed or fixed on the holders and acted on by worms or by racks or pitch
chains. The worms, racks, or pitch chains are actuated through gearing worked
by hand or by Jacquard or other suitable pattern mechanism.
When ordinary Jacquard apparatus is used the cards or plates are strengthened
so as to be capable of transmitting the necessary force for turning all the parts;
and they are arranged to act on two racks or driving pieces connected to the
gearing so as to turn the parts in opposite directions. These driving pieces have
fixed to them rods of different lengths and accordingly as the card acting at any
time has its perforated and unperforated parts disposed a longer or shorter rod of
one or other of the driving pieces will be acted on and to a greater or less extent.
The machine may be made of any convenient length and with a row of needles
suitable for one two or more breadths of fabric, or with two or more rows of
needles to simultaneously work two or more rows of repeats on the same piece or
on separate pieces of fabric. The chain stitch may be formed on either side of the
fabric, and any suitable known device for forming the chain stitch may if preferred
be used instead of that herein before described.
EDMUND HUNT,
Applicant's Agent.

page_text: I, THOMAS WRIGHT, of 320 Woodborough Road Nottingham, in the County of
Nottingham, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement, that is to say:-
My said Invention has for its object the embroidering of woven or other fabrics
by means of improved machinery, operating expeditiously and economically, and
simultaneously producing several repeats of the pattern or ornamental device.
In one modification of my improved machinery a number of vertical needles are
arranged to produce a chain stitch in a well known mode, these needles working
vertically and penetrating the fabric from above, whilst the fabric, which is
horizontal at the part operated on, is moved or shogged between the actions of the
needles so that the stitches may succeed each other in the directions required for
producing the desired ornamental figuring. A single fabric may be operated on in
this way, or two or more plies may be stitched together in the process, and portions
may be afterwards cut away or otherwise removed to produce particular ornamental
effects. The shogging or moving of the fabric for the purpose of producing the
design may be effected or controlled by hand; or the machinery may be entirely
automatic, Jacquard or other suitable pattern apparatus being employed. My
improved shogging apparatus may be advantageously used with various kinds of
stitch-forming mechanism.
The needle used in the modification now being described has a notch or hook on
one side near the point, and when the point has penetrated through the fabric the
thread which is supplied below the fabric is placed in the notch by a peculiar
spring finger or guide. The needle in rising draws a loop of the thread up through
the fabric, and the fabric being then moved the needle in again descending leaves
the loop upon the upper side and draws the next loop up through it as well as
through the fabric, the successive loops being in this way linked together and
forming a chain. When the direction of any stitch has to be changed from that of
the preceding stitch; or in other words, at each change in the direction of the
shogging movement, the needle, and also the finger or guide below, must have their
positions correspondingly changed in order that the fresh loops may be formed
properly and with certainty. The lengths of the stitches or the extent of the
shogging movements may be varied, but if kept uniform (as in the example herein-
after described) throughout the piece of work, it will be obvious that all that has
to be done to form a pattern, is to give the necessary directions to the successive
shogging movements, and to correspondingly change the positions of the needles
and their thread guides or fingers.
And in order that my said Invention and the manner of performing the same
may be properly understood I hereunto append three sheets of explanatory drawings
to be hereinafter referred to and representing parts of an embroidering machine
made with my improvements.
Figure, 1, on sheet, 1, of the accompanying drawings is a transverse vertical
section of the machine as at the position of one of the needles. Figure, 2, on

page_text: sheet, 2, is a side elevation of part of one end of the machine; and figure, 3, on
sheet, 3, is a plan corresponding to part of what is shown in figure, 2. Figures, 4,
and, 5, are an enlarged plan and a sectional elevation showing the spring finger or
guide for the thread and parts holding and acting thereon. Figure, 6, is a face
view of a portion of one of the perforated pitch driving belts employed; and
figure, 7, is a face view of one of the "cards" used with the Jacquard pattern
apparatus, such apparatus being employed in the example delineated and rendering
the action entirely automatic. Figures, 8, and 9, are a sectional plan and a sectional
elevation of the shogging device. In these drawings the same reference nuinerals are
used to mark the same or like parts wherever they are repeated..
The framing of the machine shown in the accompanying drawings consists
principally of transverse vertical end frames, 11, of which one is shown in figure, 1,
and one in figure, 2, these end frames being suitably connected by longitudinal
frame bars, 12, 13, and otherwise. The fabric, 14, which is being operated on is
partly wound on two rollers, 15, and extends from one roller to the other over a
smooth horizontal surface formed on a fixed longitudinal bar or plate, 16, having
holes in it for the operation of the several needles, 17. The fabric, 14, is shogged
or moved over the fixed bar, 16, by an upper movable shogging bar, 18, the
underside of which is covered with rubber, velvet, cloth, or other suitable frictional
material, or is roughened in any suitable way so as to act frictionally on the fabric,
and move it over the smoothed fixed bar, 16. The movement of the shogging
bar, 18, as regards extent is determined by the vertical movements of two or more
shogging pieces or shoggers, 19, shown, enlarged, in figures, 8, and 9, and the
direction is determined by the position of these shoggers which act by means of
conical or bevilled surfaces on the edges of holes formed in the shogging bar, 18,
or it might be in pieces fixed to it. For a machine of moderate length it will be
sufficient to have two shoggers, one near each end, but more may be provided if
required. Each shogger, 19, is a diametrical piece formed or fixed on a vertical
spindle, 20, which is square at and near the shogger. The shogger, 19, is fitted
between two segments, 21, each fitting something less than half of a circular holo
formed in the shogging bar, 18, the segments resting by means of a flange, 22,
formed round the upper part of each, on the upper side of the edge of the hole in
the shogging bar. When the shogger, 19, is depressed relatively to the shogging
bar, 18, a conical or bevilled projection, 23, acting on the edge of the hole in the
shogging bar causes that bar to be moved to the extent of the projection in the
horizontal direction parallel to the shogger. This action takes place when the
shogging bar, 18, is down on the fabric so that the shogging movement is commu-
nicated to the fabric; and subsequently at a time when the shogging bar, 18, is not
down on the fabric the shogger, 19, rises relatively to it, and a reversed conical or
bevilled surface, 24, at the other end of the shogger moves the shogging bar, 18,
back to its normal position. In order to avoid any dragging action on the
fabric, 14, between the shogging bar, 18, and the rollers, 15, on which the fabric is
wound, these rollers are acted on by roughened plates, 25, which are attached by
arms, 26, to the shogging bar so as to form extensions of that bar. The rollers, 15,
are made with long spindles, 27, which can work in vertical guides, 28, and are
held up in proper positions notwithstanding variations in the quantities of fabric
on them by springs, 29, connected by hooks, 30, to their spindles, 27. The
rollers, 15, are however prevented by brackets, 31, fixed to the frame bar, 12, from
rising above their proper positions when the shogging bar, 18, and plates, 25, are
raised.
The needle, 17, is shown enlarged in figure, 5, that figure and figure, 4, showing
the thread guide or finger, 32, for laying the thread in the notch or hook of the
needle. This guide, 32, may, as shown, be conveniently made out of spring wire
the lower part of which is formed into a tubular coil, 33, and fixed in the upper
end of a tube, 34, which is fixed in a wheel, 35, fitted in a hole in the frame
bar, 13, so as to be capable of turning about its axis placed vertically and coincident

page_text: with that of the needle, 17. The thread drawn off rollers, cops, or bobbins placed
in any convenient position passes from below up through the tube, 34, and coil, 33,
and then through a guide eye formed at the outer end of the finger, 32, which end
is bended down a little from the highest point of the finger, the finger being made
with a lateral elbow bend, 36, between its highest point and the coil, 33. The
finger, 32, is made to lay the thread round.about the needle, 17, by the action on
its elbow, 36, of an annular surface, that is the surface round the hole into which
the tube, 34, and coil, 33, extend from below, in a bar, 37, which is raised at the
proper time. The rising of the bar, 37, makes the finger, 32, touch the needle, 17,
and carry the thread past on one side, and subsequently allows the finger to return
by its spring action in a manner to carry the thread back past the other side of the
needle and so as to loop it on the needle. The acting surface of the bar, 37, being
annular as described, acts on the thread guide or finger, 32, in a suitable manner,
into whatever position that finger has been turned, in concert with the turning of
the needle and of the shoggers.
The vertical movements are produced by cams, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, on a longi-
tudinal shaft, 43, there being a set of these cams near each end of the machine (and
also at one or more intermediate points if the length of the machine renders it
desirable). The cams, 38, act through vertical bars, 44, on a longitudinal bar, 45,
which raises and lowers the needle spindle, 46. The cams, 39, act through vertical
bars, 47, on a longitudinal bar, 48, through which the lower ends of the needle
spindles, 46, pass, and which has fixed to its underside presser nipples, 49, for
holding down the fabric immediately round the needles whilst the needles are
being drawn up out of the fabric, this bar, 48, with the presser nipples, 49, being of
course raised whilst the fabric is being shogged. The cams, 40, through the
vertical bars, 50, act on the shogging bar, 18, the bars, 50, having plates at their
tops on which the shogging bar, 18, is free to move horizontally. The cams, 41,
act on the shogging spindles, 20; and the cams, 42, through vertical bars, 51, act on
the bar, 37, which acts on the guide fingers, 32. Where necessary springs are
applied to keep the parts in contact with the cams, or in other words to insure the
proper downward movements of the parts, when the less-projecting parts of the
cams are uppermost. Thus the top of each shogging spindle, 20 is pressed down-
wards by a crosshead, 52, acted on by a pair of springs, 53; and springs, 54, are
applied to the extension plates, 25, of the shogging bar, 18, to give them and it the
requisite downward pressure during the shogging operation.
"The shogging spindle, 20, at the end of the machine partly shown in figures, 2,
and 3, has fixed on it near its upper end a spur pinion, 55, which, when the
spindle, 20, is in its highest position, is in a position to be acted on by one or other
of two racks, 56, and these racks are acted on by Jacquard pattern mechanism.
An ordinary four-sided Jacquard barrel, 57, is arranged to be movable in horizontal
guide slots in brackets, 58, at one end of the machine; and is moved by the two
upper arms, 59, of a forked lever centered on a bracket, 60, and which has its lower
arm, 61, acted on by a grooved cam, 62, on the longitudinal shaft, 43, of the
machine. The racks, 56, are fixed to or formed on bars, 63, which can move longi-
tudinally in guides, and which have at their outer ends pins, 64, of graduated
lengths to be acted on by the Jacquard cards. One of these cards is shown
enlarged in figure, 7, and is by preference made of steel. Every card, in addition
to its lacing holes and the holes for engaging on the pins of the barrel, has as many
pattern holes formed in it as there are pins, 64, on the rack bars, 63, and every
card that has to act on the rack bars, has applied to it, over the proper hole
according to the pattern, a movable covering piece or slip, 65, by preference of
steel. The covering slip, 65, may be held in position by a pair of elastic cords or
wires, 66, fixed to the card by their ends. With the described arrangement of
Jacquard apparatus and graduated pins, 64, (which is not by itself claimed as new)
it follows that the rack bars, 63, will be acted upon according to the position of the
covering slip of any card; and if one rack bar is acted on the pinion, 55, and
spindle, 20, will be turned in one direction, whilst a movement of the other rack

page_text: bar will cause a turning in the opposite direction; and the extent of the turning in
either case will correspond to the length of the particular pin, 64, acted on. With
four lengths of pin, 64, as shown combined with the relative proportions of the
racks, 56, and pinion, 55, the shogging spindle, 20, can at each stroke of the
Jacquard barrel, be moved angularly or turned to the extent of one, two, three, or
four, sixteenths of the circle in either direction. It will however be obvious that
by altering the number of pins, 64, and correspondingly modifying the proportions
of the other parts, other extents of angular movements will be obtainable with
equal facility. In order that the shogging spindle (20) at the other end of the
machine may be moved in exact accordance with the one at the end shown in
figures, 2, and 3, the racks, 56, are connected by rods, 67, to similar racks arranged
to act on similar pinions on the said shogging spindle.
The needles, 17, are turned simultaneously with and to the same extent as the
shogging spindles, 20, this action being effected by sprocket or pinned wheels, 68,
fixed on the needle spindles, 46, and acted on by a belt, 69, perforated with
suitably pitched holes. This belt, 69, is driven by sprocket or pinned wheels, 70,
on the shogging spindles, 20, near the ends of the machine, and it is by preference
guided by pulleys, 71, as best seen in figure, 3, so as to engage with the wheels, 68,
of the needle spindles, 46, on one side only. The looping fingers or spring
guides, 32, are turned in a similar manner by means of their sprocket or pinned
wheels, 35, which are acted on by a belt, 72, perforated with suitably pitched
holes and driven by sprocket or pinned wheels, 72, on the shogging spindles, 20.
Instead of the needle spindles, and the holders of looping fingers or spring
guides being turned by means of perforated belts, pitch chains or racks may be used
for that purpose; or wormwheels may be substituted for the sprocket or pinned
wheels and may be acted on by long worms or screw spindles directly acted on by
the Jacquard or other pattern apparatus, and also arranged to turn the shogging
spindles by acting on worm wheels on them. After each inward stroke of the
Jacquard barrel and when the pinions, 55, have descended out of gear from the
racks, 56, these racks and parts fixed to them are moved outwards to their normal
positions by springs which are not shown. A handwheel, 74, is fixed on each
shogging spindle, 20, and may be used for adjusting the spindle by hand; and it
may here be mentioned that the moving of the parts to suit the pattern may
be effected by band instead of by automatic Jacquard or other pattern mechanism.
The wheels, 74, are more especially provided to insure accuracy in the position of
the shoggers. In the bar, 12, pins, 75, bevilled at the top are fixed and holes
formed in each wheel, 74, and countersunk on the underside are provided to pass
upon the pin, 75. When the wheel, 74, is raised it is clear of the pins.
The machine may be made of any convenient length and with a row of needles
suitable for one, two, or more breadths of fabric; or with two or more parallel
rows of needles to simultaneously work two or more rows of repeats on the same
piece or on separate pieces of fabric. The chain stitch may be formed on either
side of the fabric and any other suitable known device for forming the chain stitch
or any other suitable stitch may if preferred be used instead of that herein before
described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
When a greater change of direction is desired between two consecutive stitches
than the pinion, 55, racks, 63, and pins, 64, are designed for, such change can be
obtained by missing a stitch between two shogging movements, the bar, 45, which
moves the needle spindles up and down being for that purpose temporarily held up
by catches operated by the Jacquard apparatus.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The combination of parts substantially as shown in the accompanying
drawings and herein before described and constituting my improved embroidering

page_text: 2. The shogging device or combination of parts for shogging or moving the
fabric according to pattern between the stitches substantially as herein before
described.
•
3. The combination of the shogging device and pattern mechanism substantially
as hereinbefore described.
4. The combination of parts for turning the needles above the fabric and the
looping fingers or spring guides below the fabric to suit the directions of the
shogging movements substantially as hereinbefore described.
Dated this funt Jam
EDMUND HUNT,
Applicant's Agent.