Improvements relating to the Cutting Out of Garments.
Year: 1899

page_text: Improvements relating to the Cutting Out of Garments.
We, WALTER ERNEST PRESTON, of 99, Grantham Road, Manufacturer, FREDERICK
GEORGE BECK, of 4, Armoury Road, Manufacturer, and ABRAHAM TENENBAUM, of 68,
Wrentham Street, Tailor, all in the City of Birmingham, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention consists of improvements relating to the cutting out of garments,
our object being to produce appliances whereby the exact patterns of the various parts
of a garment can be very readily and accurately marked out upon the cloth or other
material.
In the construction of our improved pattern marker suitable for use in the cutting
out of a lady's coat or other garment we employ a frame consisting preferably of flat
metallic or other bars rigidly secured in a rectangular form. The bars are graduated
to any required scale of measurement. Across the said frame we arrange other and
smaller bars or strips graduated to the required scale, such cross bars or strips have
their ends retained in adjustable clips which slide and can be secured in any position
upon the side bars of the frame, the distance between the side bars being sufficient to
permit of the reception of cross bars somewhat longer than the measurement of a
body or figure between the centres of the front and back.
Upon the cross bars or strips we mount other sliding or adjustable clips or the like
for retaining in the desired positions the bars or strips which we employ to represent
the various seams of the garment. Such bars or strips we preferably make from lead
or other flexible material and of a width corresponding with the width of cloth or
material required for the seam of the garment.
The seam bars or strips are adjusted and secured in the rigid frame to the measure-
ments obtained from the person for whom a garment is to be made. The complete
apparatus is then placed over the cloth or material and with the seam bars or strips
as guides the various pieces are directly chalked or marked thereon, the frame being
moved along the material as required. A pair of seam bars or strips are provided for
the marking out of each piece of cloth, and the upper ends of some of them are
connected with the collar or shoulder bars or strips at the top part of the frame, each
bar can be set to the required form and secured thereat by the adjustable fastening
devices.
The dimensions of the vees or portions of the cloth to be cut away from the fore
part to give the necessary inset to the waist, are indicated by means of a sliding rule
carried upon an adjustable cross bar or strip which is set to the required position on
the frame; the seam bars or strips forming the pattern of the garment pieces in
which the vees are to be cut are curved or adjusted to the dimensions indicated by
the sliding rule and secured thereat by the clamping or fastening devices.
provide other and like sliding rules for the purpose of cutting off the allowance of
material required at the hips and for indicating the width of the back, arm-holes, and
fore-part of the garment.
We
With our improved apparatus we can readily form exact patterns for the economical,

page_text: expeditious, and accurate cutting of the whole of the pieces of various garments for
ladies, gentlemen, and children.
HOW
1
11000
MARKS & CLERK,
18, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., and
13, Temple Street, Birmingham, and
25, Cross Street, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.
Improvements relating to the Cutting Out of Garments.
We, WALTER ERNEST PRESTON, of 99, Grantham Road, Manufacturer, FREDERICK
GEORGE BECK, of 4, Armoury Road, Manufacturer, and ABRAHAM TENENBAUM, of 68,
Wrenthan Street, Tailor, all in the City of Birmingham, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what inanner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention consists of improvements relating to the cutting out of garments,
our object being to produce appliances whereby the exact patterns of the various parts
of a garment can be very readily and accurately marked out in the correct sequence
and balance upon the cloth or other material.
In the accompanying sheet of explanatory drawings to be hereinafter referred to.
Figure 1 is a plan, and Figure 2 a sectional end elevation on the line A B,
(Figure 1), representing an appliance as arranged in accordance with our invention
for use in the cutting out of a lady's coat or other like garment.
Figure 3 is a plan and Figure 4 an end view, showing, to a larger scale, one of the
adjustable fastenings or connections for the seain bars or strips.
The same reference letters in the different views indicate the same parts.
We make the outer portion of the framing of our pattern maker preferably from
flat metallic or other bars, as a b c and d, rigidly secured in a rectangular form, or
from square section metallic tubes. The bars may be graduated to any required scale
of measurement. Upon opposite sides of the said outer portion of the frame we
mount, in adjustable clamps or fastenings as e, the respective ends of the rigid cross
bars or strips f and g, which are graduated to the required scale of measurement.
The clamps or fastenings e when released are free to slide upon the bars a and b, but
they can be readily secured at the required positions by simply tightening the
respective thumb screws. The distance between the side bars a and b is sufficient to
permit of the reception of cross bars ƒ and g somewhat longer than the circum-
ferential measurement of any ordinary person between the centres of the front and
back.
Upon the cross bars or strips ƒ and g we mount other sliding or adjustable clamps
or fastenings e for retaining in the desired positions the bars or strips, (such as
represented by the letters to inclusive), which we employ to represent in the
proper sequence the various seams of the garment. Such bars or strips are preferably
of a width corresponding with the width of cloth or material required for the seam of
the garment, and we inake each or some of them from several pieces jointed together,
or from one length of lead or flexible material so that they can be readily set to the
required curved shape.
The seam bars or strips are adjusted and secured in the rigid frame to the measure-
ments obtained from the person for whom a garment is to be made. The complete
apparatus is then placed over the cloth or material and with the seam bars or strips
as guides the various pieces are directly chalked or marked thereon, the frame being

page_text: moved along the material as required. Or the apparatus may be advantageously
employed for the cutting of paper patterns.
The upper ends of some of the seam bars or strips are connected with the collar or
shoulder bars or strips at the top part of the frame as illustrated.
The flexible or jointed strip w is set to suit the arm-hole measurements. To assist
in the accurate setting of the instrument to show the over shoulder measurements we
provide the pivoted rules or measuring strips ; the pivoted rule y is to assist in
setting the instrument to show width of back, and the pivoted rule is arranged so
that its pivoted or jointed end shall indicate the neck point of the garment. The
rule a¹ shows the first inset of the waist.
The dotted lines to the left hand of Figure 1 indicate the marking which would be
made upon the cloth for guidance in the cutting of what is known as the "back
piece" of the coat. In a similar manner the whole of the pieces would be chalked or
marked out, the complete instrument or apparatus being moved along the cloth as
required. Thus the strips (when properly set to the measurements taken from
the person to be fitted) will represent the "first side body piece," the strips m n
the "second side body piece," the strips o p the third side body piece" (when such
is required), and the strips q v the "fore part."
"
The dimensions of the " vees or portions of the cloth to be cut away from the
fore part of the garment to give the necessary inset to the waist, are indicated by the
strips 8 and tu, such strips being set to the required dimensions with the aid of a
sliding rule carried upon the flexible or jointed cross-bar or strip a², which is set to
indicate the waist line, or the setting of the vee strips may be effected without such
sliding rule and by the aid of the graduations in the required measure on the cross-
bars and g.
We preferably graduate the whole of the seam strips employed with our
instrument.
In taking the measurements from a person for guidance in the setting of our
instrument, we preferably employ two tapes connected by a swivel joint carrying a
hook which is secured to the upper extremity of the centre of the back. We can then
readily obtain from such fixed starting point the exact measurements necessary for
the correct cutting of the cloth. To obtain the curvature of the back of the person
to be fitted we employ a straight edged rule having an off-set sliding rule projecting
at right angles therefrom.
With our improved apparatus we can readily form exact patterns for the economical,
expeditious, and accurate cutting, in correct sequence and with the exact balances to
give a proper fit, of the whole of the pieces of the various garments for ladies,
gentlemen, and children.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. An instrument or appliance so constructed and arranged that the whole of the
parts of a garment can be very readily and accurately marked out in proper sequence
and with the exact balances between such parts to ensure proper fitting, substantially
as described and as illustrated.
2. The combination with a rigid outer frame, of rigid cross bars adjustable in
position upon the said frame, and flexible or jointed strips independently adjustable
upon the said rigid bars and in part connected by other flexible and adjustable strips

page_text: bar or strip with or without a sliding rule thereon, substantially as and for the
purposes described and as illustrated.
Dated this 17th day of January 1900.
MARKS & CLERK,
18, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
13, Temple Street, Birmingham, and
25, Cross Street, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.