Improvements in Machines for Clipping Lace.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Dec., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 18th Sept., 1893-Accepted, 21st Oct., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Clipping Lace.
I, JAMES YATE JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention (which has been communi-
cated to me from abroad by The Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Company of
New York City in the United States of America) to be as follows:-
This invention has reference to machines for clipping lace of the kind described
in the Specification of Letters Patent No. 837 dated January 20th, 1885, and
No. 9803 dated July 29th, 1886, and the said invention comprises certain improve-
ments in machines of this class as hereinafter described.
Heretofore the pickers have been carried upon bars overhanging the lace plate,
and extending half-way across the same, meeting similar picker-carrying bars
extending from the opposite side. This construction is suitable, and even pre-
ferable, for machines of comparatively small width, but is inapplicable to machines
designed to act upon very wide pieces of lace, owing to the springiness of the bars,
which if extended in length beyond a reasonable point, would at high speeds
develop a tendency to "whip" and cause variations in the stroke of the pickers.
By means of the present invention, lace clipping machines of any desired width
can be constructed and to this end the pickers are carried upon slides or sleeves,
mounted upon a bar or bars, bridging the entire width of the machine, and of
sufficient strength for the purpose in view. These bars in turn rest upon slides
which work in guides fitted to the frame of the machine at each side, these guides
being given a vertical movement by means of suitable connecting rods and eccentrics
or other actuating devices. The horizontal sleeves or slides (of which there are
two for each two lines of pickers) extend half-way across the machine and meet
almost at the centre. They are given the necessary reciprocating movements
towards and away from each other by means of suitable actuating devices such as
bell-cranks connected with eccentrics on the main shaft. The pickers may be
attached directly to the sleeves or slides, or they may be clamped to detachable
plates, which are in turn secured to the sleeves or slides.
In order to assist in keeping the lace stretched out to its greatest width and at
the same time to loosen the floats or clips from the body of the net preparatory to
their being picked up and cut by the cutting pickers, brushes are provided which
are given the same movement as the pickers; that is, they brush from the centre
outward toward the edges of the lace. In the construction for the wide machine,
these brushes are clamped to and carried by sleeves, the same as the pickers; but
in the narrow machine, they may be carried by bars in the same manner as the
pickers are carried.
Just inside of the cover and before the lace arrives at the brushes; it passes
under a vertically acting clamp (preferably having a strip of rubber inserted in its
lower edge) which clamp during the operation of the brushes presses by spring
pressure upon the lace, but is caused to rise automatically and release the lace
when the time comes for feeding the lace into the machine.
Between the two lines of brushes a roller is placed, having in its circumference
ratchet shaped grooves, or grooves which are vertical on one side and inclined on
the other. The vertical faces of these grooves are at each side turned away from
the centre of the machine. The roller is journalled in vertical grooves in the side
walls of the machine and rests in action upon the lace, which is supported by the
lace plate, thus giving it a slight tension and holding it extended as the brushes
aat upon it

page_text: The slots in which the journal pins move extend downward a little below the
under side of the journal pins so that the roll may always rest upon the lace
(which is supported by the face plate) and terminate just below at a point, so that
when the lace plate is lowered to allow the lace to be inserted in the machine, the
roller remains suspended.
The lace in its continued progress through the machine passes under a series of
rollers having spiral ratchet shaped grooves, which rollers are journalled in the
sides of the machine, or in vertically acting guides, or bearings. These rollers are
cut on one or both sides of the centre with spiral threads, the vertical face of the
threads being toward the outside of the machine at either side. These rollers are
given a constant rotary movement by suitable connection with the main shaft, and.
turn in such direction that the under side of the rollers move in an opposite
direction to the feeding of the lace through the machine; and the screw threads
are cut in such direction that they tend to spread the lace as they turn in contact
with it, and as the lace is fed through the machine. These rollers are sometimes
made with the screw only on one side of the centre, being cut on the other side
with ratchet grooves encircling the rollers at right angles to their axes. In this
case such portions of the rollers only act to keep the lace extended at that side of
the centre of the lace plate. This construction is desirable when the machine is
acting upon lace on the edges of which is a "head" composed of heavy threads,
forming the pattern while at the other edge of the lace there is little but the net or
ground work of the lace. It is desirable in this case only to spread this edge of
the lace, while allowing the "head" of the lace to pass through the machine
without action by the rolls except to hold against the spreading action of the
spiral portion of the roll. In some cases also the ratchet thread may be on both
sides of the centre, but on one side it will be a single threaded screw, whilst on the
other side it will be a double threaded screw. These various combinations can be
made by merely changing the rollers as required. These rollers act in grooves, or
their equivalents, crosswise of the lace plate of the machine, the lace always
passing in a bent or corrugated form through the machine so as to give the rolls an
opportunity to spread or hold the lace. As before stated, some or all of these
rollers may be simultaneously moved in guides or bearings, having a vertical move-
ment opposite to that of the pickers, so that when the pickers are up and clear of
the lace, the rollers will be depressed still further into the grooves in the lace
plate, while when the pickers are depressed on the lace, the rolls will occupy
relatively a higher position. The effect of this movement of the rollers is alter-
nately to draw more lace through the machine and then give it up again as the
pickers descend upon it, which in the case of delicate lace relieves it from
undue strain caused by the pickers depressing it into the picker grooves in the lace
plate.
The lace in its further passage through the machine passes through a device
which is intended to give sufficient tension on the lace and cause it to bend sharply
over the edge of the throat plate, so as to present the split ends of the slips or
floats in proper position to be mowed off by the rotary cutter. This tension device
.preferably consists of a roller of proper weight, turning in vertical grooves in the
side walls of the machine, and pressing the lace between itself and any stationary
part of the machine-such as the lace plate itself-but any usual or suitable
arrangement for imparting friction or tension can be used. This tension, as it will
be seen, is placed after the pickers have completed their work upon the lace and
before it reaches the mowing mechanism, as at this time, whatever tension is
necessary to produce perfect mowing can be applied to the lace without interfering
with the proper action of the pickers, which demand a lighter tension upon the
lace as it passes under them.
It is desirable in passing lace through the machine that it should be first, sewed
together into continuous strips of sufficient length to avoid stopping the machine
frequently to insert new pieces of lace, and this is done by making an ordinary
seain, uniting the ends of the various strips. As the seams pass through the

page_text: machine and reach the mowing mechanism, unless the through plate is withdrawn
by the operator at the right moment to permit the seam to pass through freely, it
will, (because of the extra thickness of the seam,) be cut off by the mowing
mechanism, and the strips separated. To overcome this difficulty, an automatic
setting-off device is introduced into the machine, by which, as the lace passes
between a stationary portion of the machine and a delicate lever, which always
rests upon it, the additional thickness of the fabric sets in action proper
mechanism to move the throat plate away from the mowing mechanism and to
return it as soon as the seam has passed the edge of the throat plate. The
setting-off device is necessarily delicate in its operation, but it brings into action
moving parts of the machine, which act with the necessary power to produce the
movement of the throat plate with certainty and at the proper time.
The lace, after being moved, passes downward and under the block in which the
rotary cutter is journalled and thence under a roller and upward in front of a
display-plate of card-board or sheet-metal, either white or coloured, as best adapted
to allow the pattern of the lace to be seen by the operator. The lace is caused to
move in this upward direction by suitable means, such as a moving roller, upon
which a weighted roller presses; and thence it is, or may be, passed over another
roller supported on arms extending from the back of the machine; all the rollers
being given a rotary movement in the right direction by suitable belting from the
moving part of the machine. The lace, after passing the final roller, falls into a
basket or other receptacle. This last roller is extended some distance from the
back of the machine in order to give room for a basket to be placed there, and
also to prevent silk lace from being drawn by electrical action against the frame of
the machine.
"
"
Lace, as commonly made, has a "back" or rselvedge on either or both edges.
This selvedge or "back
is composed of straight threads, which are generally
heavier than the thread from which the "net" is made. The "net" threads pass
around the "back" threads and unite them to the body of the "net." In order to
prevent this "back
or selvedge being picked up and cut by the cutting pickers,
it has been found necessary to support the lace upon a surface or surfaces of less
width than the width of the lace, and raised above the general surface of the lace
plate, so as to allow the two edges of the lace to be depressed below this raised
surface by means of the rotating grooved rollers or their equivalent. Wherever
the strip of lace to be clipped consists of two or more breadths of lace united by
the draw "threads" these raised surfaces must be of the right width and in the
right position to support each breadth of lace within the selvedge or scalloped
edge line. This, in effect, will form grooves or depressions in the lace plate,
lengthwise of the lace, the middle of each groove being in line with the "back"
or selvedge of cach breadth of lace. These raised surfaces may be formed in
various ways. Preferably they are formed by using strips of varying lengths,
adjustably attached to the upper surface of the lace plate, which in case the lace
is wide enough to almost fit the machine, are long enough to be nearly the width of
the lace, or in case several strips of lace, still united by their "draw-threads" are
being passed through the machine, then these adjustable strips will be of the
proper length for each breadth of lace, but always less than the width of the lace.
Consequently a space or spaces will be left between the ends of these strips into
which the "backs or selvedges are depressed by the ratchet rollers or their
equivalent, before referred to, and are kept clear of the action of the pickers. It
is seldom that the pattern on the lace extends quite to the selvedge edge, conse-
quently it is only necessary to have the adjustable strips hold the lace up to be
acted upon by the pickers, where there are clips or floats to be removed. These
adjustable strips are, or may be, used on both sides of the lines of pickers, and
thus form the grooves into which the lace is depressed by the pickers in picking
aud cutting the floats or clips. In practice these raised surfaces are preferably
secured to the upper plane surface of the lace plate by a tongue on the under side

page_text: of the strip entering a groove in the lace plate, through which screws enter nuts
sliding in T-grooves extending across the plate under each line of strips. By this
means these adjustable strips may be accurately adjusted and readily changed as
required. Each of these adjustable strips is preferably rounded on one edge and
forms the surface over which the lace is depressed by the spreading rollers or their
equivalent. By substituting lace plates, in which the grooves for adjustable strips
vary in distance from the centre of the picker slots or grooves, any desired distance
between the edges of the strips nearest to the pickers can be secured, while still
using the same adjustable strips. In practice it is found desirable to have these
plates, giving various widths of picker grooves, to accommodate different styles
and designs of lace.
In order to continue the spreading action of the ratchet rollers to the extreme
edge of the outside selvedge or selvedges, some of these adjustable strips are made
sufficiently long to allow the selvedge edge to rest clear to the edge of the lace on
the adjustable strips, but they are cut away on a bevel toward the edge forming the
picker grooves so as to allow the "back or selvedge to be depressed below the
general upper surface of the strips by means of overhanging guides or fingers.
These guides or fingers extend inward toward and over the bevel of the adjustable
strips and the under surface of the projecting part of the guides or fingers is a
little below the general upper surface of the strips. They approach as closely as
may be to the shoulder or corner formed by the bevel and still permit the lace to
pass freely. As these fingers are, or may be, adjustably secured to the lace plate
in the same manner as the adjustable strips and are, or may be, on both sides of the
lines of pickers, it follows that the selvedge edge or "back
is held safely below
the action of the pickers and still the spreading action of the ratchet rolls is
secured to the extreme edge of the lace. These depressing guides or fingers can
be used on either or both edges of the strips of lace.
"
The throat plate, or the plate over which the lace is bent in order to throw out
the severed clips or floats for the action of the rotary cutter, is preferably provided
with or formed of a thin sheet metal strip clamped between the stationary part of
the throat plate and the movable clamp. This strip projects far enough beyond
the point where it is clamped to its support to allow holes to be drilled or punched
through it close to the edge over which the lace is being drawn. These holes allow
air to be drawn through the lace by means of the air exhauster, which is connected
to the machine for the purpose of removing the severed clips. The air so passing
through the lace tends to lift up the severed ends of the clips or floats as they
approach the edge of the throat plate and assist in presenting them in proper
position to be mowed off by the rotary cutter. In order to compel the air to pass
through the perforated plate strip and also to produce the suction through the lace
plate, the machine is made as nearly air tight as possible except at the points where
it is arranged for the air to enter.
As the pattern or figure upon lace is often very much heavier than the general
thickness of the "net" from which the body of the lace is formed, it follows that
in passing the lace over a straight throat plate, the thick portion comes too near to
the cutter before the thinner portions of the lace approach near enough to allow
the ends of clips being mowed closely to the fabric. To compensate for this
condition we cut away the edge of the throat plate strip, where the thick portion
of the lace comes, sufficiently to allow that part of the lace to be held further
from the rotary cutter than it otherwise would be. The amount and position of
this cutting away of course varies in different kinds and patterns of lace, so that
ability to quickly and cheaply change the edge of the throat plate by the use of
sheet metal strips is of much importance.
Heretofore my foreign correspondents have used a comb extending entirely
across the lace which could be lowered into position to prevent the lace being
accidentally cut by the action of the rotary cutter, especially at the thicker portion
of the lace, but the comb is a disadvantage inasmuch as it interferes somewhat with

page_text: the clips or floats turning over properly to be mowed off. The combs are therefore
made in sections of different lengths and they are adjustably secured to the comb
bar in any desired position by means of a screw and nut working in a T-groove in the
comb bar. By placing a comb of the proper width opposite the portion of lace
requiring protection and opposite the cutaway portion of the throat plate strip, as
provided above, when that is used, the safety of the lace is assured at this point,
and the rest of the lace not requiring the comb, will be more perfectly cleared. In
place of the comb a solid shield of the same section as the comb may be substituted,
where the part of the lace sought to be projected has no clips.
At the point where the pickers bear against the stationary blades, which
co-operate with the pickers in severing the clips or floats, it is necessary that a
small quantity of oil be provided and it is desirable that this be done in such
manner as to insure its being constantly supplied in about the right quantity. To
accomplish this a reservoir or reservoirs is or are formed in the upper part of the
bridge to which the stationary picker blades are attached and from this reservoir or
reservoirs the oil is conveyed to the upper inclined surfaces of the blades, which
are adjustably secured to the under side of the bridge. The oil by this arrangement,
exudes from the joints between the bridge and the blades and runs down on the
surfaces against which the pickers bear. The oil is thus supplied in theoretically
the best place for doing the work and there is no surplus oil to soil the lace, as all
that is not required to lubricate the pickers is carried away by the severed clips in
their passage out of the machine to the exhauster.
In order to adjust and secure the pickers to the detachable picker plates (when
these are used) or to the picker-carrying bars themselves, as used in the arrangement
for narrow machines the picker-supports (whether plates or bars) are formed with
a tongue projecting from a flat surface, and in the side of the picker shank a
corresponding groove is made. The pickers at the end of the bar or support
toward the centre of the machine are made with two holes through the shank and
the supports are made with pins, which enter these holes in the end pickers. This
gives the end picker an upright position and at the same time allows the next and
succeeding pickers to be pushed up against it along the tongue. When the bar or
plate is filled with pickers along its centre length instead of terminating the line
with a regular picker, a piece of steel of the same width and thickness as a picker
is used which instead of having its lower end cut into the form of a picker is
rounded on its lower edge towards the side wall of the machine the other corner
being left square. This protects the point or toe of the picker adjacent to it and
prevents it from entering the net or fabric of the lace serving the same purpose
that the heel of the adjacent picker serves to the point of the one nearest to it, and
so on through the line of pickers. An eccentric or other suitable device is then
used to compress the picker shanks together along the tongue until they form a
solid mass at the shank. A plate or strip suitably supported is then placed over
the shanks of the pickers and clamps are swung over it, which clamp the pickers
against the flat face of the picker carrier or support. The toe of the pickers being
narrower than the shank, it follows that a space is left between the toe of each
picker and the heel of the succeeding picker in order to allow the floats or clips to
rise between and be picked up and severed. This arrangement allows the pickers
of various widths, thicknesses and heights of toe being used on the same picker
carrying bars or plates and secures them in an accurate and substantial position.
In former machines the acting end of the picker in its movement described, an
oval or ellipse, whose major axis was parallel with the lace plate. According to
the present invention, the two eccentrics on each side of the centre of the lace
plate which impart the motion to the gangs of pickers, are so adjusted relatively
to one another that the major axis of the oval or ellipse on each side of the centre
of the lace plate is oblique to the lace plate and inclines downward towards the
middle of the lace plate. The object of this arrangement is to cause the pickers,
as they move backward and downward, to act with greater certainty upon the floats
or clips, which pass between the toes and heels of adjacent pickers and are caught

page_text: upon the former. The motion of the pickers downward, to engage the floats or
clips, is by this arrangement, more nearly vertical than heretofore, and consequently
surer to effect the desired object.
Instead of giving the upper surface of the toe of the picker an angle rising
toward the cutting edge, this surface is made parallel in a transverse direction to
the lower side or end of the picker. This makes the toe or nose of the picker
parallel across its whole width, and allows the end to be nicely rounded in all
directions toward the upper or cutting surfaces. Instead of twisting the toe of the
picker so as to make the cutting edge approach the stationary blade nearer than at
the heel, we grind or lap the cutting side of the picker at a slight angle, not only
to a vertical line but also to a horizontal line through the centre of the line of
pickers. This makes the end of the picker narrower at the heel than at the toe
and has the same effect, (so far as the cutting edge is concerned,) as twisting the
picker, but is an improvement upon it, since it leaves the other side of the picker
parallel to the grooves in the lace plate.
It being necessary to guide the lace accurately through the machine so as to
have the selvedge edges or the "backs" pass through the centre of the grooves or
depressions made by the adjustable strips, adjustable gauges are provided under
which the lace passes as it enters the machine. Preferably these gauges are
attached by means of screws and nuts entering a T-groove cut in the face of a bar
which is laid in grooves cut in the side wall of the machine. The upper surface
of this bar is square and the cover when closed fits against it. The lower edge of
the bar is rounded and comes about even with the upper surface of the lace plate,
and in order to allow the lace to pass freely a rounded groove is cut in the lace
plate under the bar. The gauge points are bent partly around the front curved
surface of the bar so as to approach the lace as nearly as possible. By this
arrangement, while the lace passes freely into the machine, but little air passes in
with it and the gauge points are close to the lace.
The clips or floats which have been severed by the cutting pickers as the lace
passes under the gangs of pickers are not only cut in two, but before they pass
beyond the action of the pickers are cut again and again, which separates portions
of the clips or floats entirely from the body of the lace. These severed portions
of clips get in behind the pickers and between them and the bridges carrying the
stationary blades, especially at the rows, of pickers toward the front of the machine
from which the lace is approaching. This is caused partly on acount of the severed
ends of the clips which are directed toward the rear of the machine having a
tendency as the lace is fed through the machine to push through between the
pickers and upwards against the inclined surface of the stationary knife bridges
where they remain after being severed from the lace, and partly by the action of
the exhauster causing a current from the front to the rear of the machine which
draws the severed portions of the clips with it, and in some cases leaves them
behind the pickers. When the machine has been running a while it is necessary to
stop it and with a pair of tweezers remove these severed clips which are packed in
behind the rows of pickers. To obviate this difficulty the picker carrying bars or
slides are made of such form that a current of air is drawn by the action of the
exhauster from the outside of the machine between the stationary blade bridges
and the rows of pickers, coming out between the pickers. This current of air
tends in a measure to prevent the clips from going in behind the pickers but should
they get there the said current has a tendency to eject them again, when they would
be at once carried upward and over the picker carrying bars or slides to the exit
provided at the rear of the machine, as there is little or no tendency of the severed
portions of the clips to get in behind the rear rows of pickers, or the pickers on the rear
side of the bridges, the bridges and picker carrying bars or sleeves are so formed that
the current of air brought in through them is directed only toward the front rows of
pickers. This is at the same time prevents the current of air through the machine
before referred to from passing between the pickers and compels all the air which
enters the machine either through the lace plate from below or the air brought in

page_text: through the picker carrying bars or slides, from above, to pass upward and over the
picker carrying bars or slides to the exit at the rear of the machine..
Dated this 24th day of December 1892.
J. H. JOHNSON & Co.,
Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Clipping Lace.
I, JAMES YATE JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention (which has
been communicated to me from abroad by The Willcox and Gibbs Sewing
Machine Company, of New York City, in the United States of America) and
in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :—
This invention has reference to machines for clipping lace of the kind described
in the Specifications of Letters Patent, No. 837 dated January 20th 1885 and
No. 9803 dated July 29th 1886; and the said invention comprises certain
improvements in machines of this class as hereinafter described.
Heretofore the pickers have been carried upon bars overhanging the lace plate,
and extending half-way across the same, meeting similar picker-carrying bars
extending from the opposite side. This construction is suitable, and even prefer-
able, for machines of comparatively small width, but is inapplicable to machines
designed to act upon very wide pieces of lace, owing to the springiness of the
bars, which if extended in length beyond a reasonable point, would at high
speeds develop a tendency to "whip" and cause variations in the stroke of the
pickers. By means of the present invention, lace clipping machines of any
desired width can be constructed and to this end the pickers are carried upon
slides or sleeves, mounted upon a bar or bars, bridging the entire width of the
machine, and of sufficient strength for the purpose in view. These bars in turn
rest upon slides which work in guides fitted to the frame of the machine at each
side, these guides being given a vertical movement by means of suitable connecting
rods and eccentrics, or other actuating devices. The horizontal sleeves or slides
(of which there are two for each two lines of pickers) extend half-way across the
machine and meet almost at the centre. They are given the necessary reciprocating
movements towards and away from each other by means of suitable actuating
devices such as bell cranks connected with eccentrics on the main-shaft. The
pickers may be attached directly to the sleeves or slides, or they may be clamped
to detachable plates, which are in turn secured to the sleeves or slides.
In order to assist in keeping the lace stretched out to its greatest width and at
the same time to loosen the floats or clips from the body of the net preparatory to
their being picked up and cut by the cutting pickers, brushes are provided which
are given the same movement as the pickers; that is, they brush from the centre
outward toward the edges of the lace. In the construction for the wide machine,.
these brushes are clamped to and carried by sleeves, the same as the pickers; but
in the narrow machine, they may be carried by bars in the same manner as the
pickers are carried.
Just inside of the cover and before the lace arrives at the brushes, it passes
under a vertically acting clamp (preferably having a strip of rubber inserted in its
lower edge) which clamp during the operation of the brushes presses by spring
pressure upon the lace, but is caused to rise automatically and release the lace
when the time comes for feeding the lace into the machine.
Between the two lines of brushes a roller is placed, having in its circumference
ratchet shaped grooves, or grooves which are vertical on one side and inclined on
the other. The vertical faces of these grooves are at each side turned away from
the centre of the machine. The roller is journalled in vertical grooves in the side

page_text: walls of the machine and rests in action upon the lace, which is supported by the
lace plate, thus giving it a slight tension and holding it extended as the brushes act
upon it. The slots in which the journal pins move extend downward a little below
the underside of the journal pins so that the roll may always rest upon the lace,
(which is supported by the 'lace plate,) and terminate just below at a point, so that
when the lace plate is lowered to allow the lace to be inserted in the machine, the
roller remains suspended.
The lace in its continued progress through the machine passes under a series of
rollers having spiral ratchet shaped grooves, which rollers are journalled in the
sides of the machine, or in vertically acting guides, or bearings. These rollers are
cut on one or both sides of the centre with spiral threads, the vertical face of the
threads being toward the outside of the machine at either side. These rollers are
given a constant rotary movement by suitable connection with the main shaft, and
turn in such direction that the under side of the rollers move in an opposite direction
to the feeding of the lace through the machine; and the screw threads are cut in
such direction that they tend to spread the lace as they turn in contact with it, and
as the lace is fed through the machine. These rollers are sometimes made with
the screw only on one side of the centre being cut on the other side with ratchet
In this case such
grooves encircling the rollers at right angles to their axes.
portions of the rollers only act to keep the lace extended at that side of the centre
of the lace plate. This construction is desirable when the machine is acting upon
lace on the edges of which is a "head" composed of heavy threads, forming the
pattern while at the other edge of the lace there is little but the net or ground
work of the lace. It is desirable in this case only to spread this edge of the lace,
while allowing the "head" of the lace to pass through the machine without action
by the rolls except to hold against the spreading action of the spiral portion of the
roll. In some cases also the ratchet thread may be on both sides of the centre but
on one side it will be a single threaded screw, whilst on the other side it will be a
double threaded screw. These various combinations can be made by merely
changing the rollers as required. These rollers act in grooves, or their equivalents,
crosswise of the lace plate of the machine, the lace always passing in a bent or
corrugated form through the machine so as to give the rolls an opportunity to
spread or hold the lace. As before stated, some or all of these rollers may be
simultaneously moved in guides or bearings, having a vertical movement opposite
to that of the pickers, so that when the pickers are up and clear of the lace, the
rollers will be depressed still further into the grooves in the lace plate, while when
the pickers are depressed on the lace, the rolls will occupy relatively a higher
position. The effect of this movement of the rollers is alternately to draw more
lace through the machine and then give it up again as the pickers descend upon it,
which in the case of delicate lace relieves it from undue strain caused by the
pickers depressing it into the picker grooves in the lace plate.
The lace in its further passage through the machine passes through a device
which is intended to give sufficient tension on the lace and cause it to bend sharply
over the edge of the throat plate, so as to present the split ends of the slips or
This tension
floats in proper position to be mowed off by the rotary cutter.
device preferably consists of a roller of proper weight, turning in vertical
grooves in the side walls of the machine, and pressing the lace between itself
and any stationary part of the machine-such as the lace plate itself-but any
usual or suitable arrangement for imparting friction or tension can be used. This
tension, as it will be seen, is placed after the pickers have completed their work
upon the lace and before it reaches the mowing mechanism, as at this time, whatever
tension is necessary to produce perfect mowing can be applied to the lace without
interfering with the proper action of the pickers, which demand a lighter tension
upon the lace as it passes under them.
It is desirable in passing lace through the machine that it should be first sewed
together into continuous strips of sufficient length to avoid stopping the machine
frequently to insert new pieces of lace, and this is done by making an ordinary

page_text: seam, uniting the ends of the various strips. As the seams pass through the
machine and reach the mowing mechanism, unless the throat plate is withdrawn by
the operator at the right moment to permit the seam to pass through freely, it
will, (because of the extra thickness of the seam,) be cut off by the mowing
mechanism, and the strips separated. To overcome this difficulty, an automatic
setting-off device is introduced into the machine, by which, as the lace passes
between a stationary portion of the machine and a delicate lever, which always
rests upon it, the additional thickness of the fabric sets in action proper mechanism
to move the throat plate away from the mowing mechanism and to return it as soon
as the seam has passed the edge of the throat plate. The setting-off device is
necessarily delicate in its operation, but it brings into action moving parts of the
machine, which act with the necessary power to produce the movement of the
throat plate with certainty and at the proper time.
The lace, after being mowed, passes downward and under the block in which
the rotary cutter is journalled and thence under a roller and upward in front of a
display-plate of card-board or sheet metal, either white or coloured, as best adapted
to allow the pattern of the lace to be seen by the operator. The lace is caused to
move in this upward direction by suitable means, such as a moving roller, upon
which a weighted roller presses; and thence it is, or may be, passed over another
roller.supported on arms extending from the back of the machine; all the rollers
being given a rotary movement in the right direction by suitable belting from the
moving parts of the machine. The lace, after passing the final roller, falls into a
basket or other receptacle. This last roller is extended some distance from the
back of the machine in order to give room for a basket to be placed there, and also
to prevent silk lace from being drawn by electrical action against the frame of the
machine.
"
כל
دو
Lace, as commonly made, has a "back' or selvedge on either or both sides.
This selvedge or "back" is composed of straight threads, which are generally
heavier than the thread from which the "net is made. The "net" threads pass
around the "back" threads and unite them to the body of the "net." In order to
prevent this "back" or selvedge being picked up and cut by the cutting pickers,
it has been found necessary to support the lace upon a surface or surfaces of less
width than the width of the lace, and raised above the general surface of the lace
plate, so as to allow the two edges of the lace to be depressed below this raised
surface by means of the rotating grooved rollers or their equivalent. Wherever
the strip of lace to be clipped consists of two or more breadths of lace united by
the "draw threads" these raised surfaces must be of the right width and in the
right position to support each breadth of lace within the selvedge or scalloped edge
line. This, in effect, will form grooves or depressions in the lace plate, lengthwise
of the lace, the middle of each groove being in line with the "back or selvedge of
each breadth of lace. These raised surfaces may be formed in various ways.
Preferably they are formed by using strips of varying lengths, adjustably attached
to the upper surface of the lace plate, which in case the lace is wide enough to
almost fit the machine, are long enough to be nearly the width of the lace, or in
case several strips of lace, still united by their "draw-threads" are being passed
through the machine, then these adjustable strips will be of the proper length for
each breadth of lace, but always less than the width of the lace. Consequently a
space or spaces will be left between the ends of these strips into which the
"backs
or selvedges are depressed by the ratchet rollers or their equivalent,
before referred to, and are kept clear of the action of the pickers. It is
seldom that the pattern on the lace extends quite to the selvedge edge,
consequently it is only necessary to have the adjustable strips hold the
lace up to be acted upon by the pickers, where there are clips or floats
to be removed. These adjustable strips are, or may be, used on both sides of
the lines of pickers, and thus form the grooves into which the lace is depressed
by the pickers in picking and cutting the floats or clips. In practice these raised
surfaces are preferably secured to the upper plane surface of the lace plate by a
גי
B

page_text: tongue on the under side of the strip entering a groove in the lace plate, through
which screws enter nuts sliding in T-grooves extending across the plate under each
line of strips. By this means these adjustable strips may be accurately adjusted
and readily changed as required. Each of these adjustable strips is preferably
rounded on one edge and forms the surface over which the lace is depressed by the
spreading rollers or their equivalent. By substituting lace plates, in which the
grooves for adjustable strips vary in distance from the centre of the picker slots or
grooves, any desired distance between the edges of the strips nearest to the pickers
cau be secured, while still using the same adjustable strips. In practice it is found
desirable to have these plates, giving various widths of picker grooves, to accom-
modate different styles and designs of lace..
In order to continue the spreading action of the ratchet rollers to the extreme
edge of the outside selvedge or selvedges, some of these adjustable strips are made
sufficiently long to allow the selvedge edge to rest clear to the edge of the lace on
the adjustable strips, but they are cut away on a bevel toward the edge forming
the picker grooves so as to allow the "back" or selvedge to be depressed below the
general upper surface of the strips by means of overhanging guides or fingers.
These guides or fingers extend inward toward and over the bevel of the adjustable
strips and the under surface of the projecting part of the guides or fingers is a little
below the general upper surface of the strips. They approach as closely as may
be to the shoulder or corner formed by the bevel and still permit the lace to pass
freely. As these fingers are, or may be, adjustably secured to the lace plate in
the same manner as the adjustable strips, and are, or may be, on both sides of the
lines of pickers, it follows that the selvedge edge or "back" is held safely below
the action of the pickers and still the spreading action of the ratchet rolls is
secured to the extreme edge of the lace. These depressing guides or fingers can be
used on either or both edges of the strips of lace..
.
The throat plate, or the plate over which the lace is bent in order to throw out
the severed clips or floats for the action of the rotary cutter, is preferably provided
with or formed of a thin sheet metal strip clamped between the stationary part of
the throat plate and the movable clamp. This strip projects far enough beyond
the point where it is clamped to its support to allow holes to be drilled or punched
through it close to the edge over which the lace is being drawn. These holes allow
air to be drawn through the lace by means of the air exhauster, which is connected
to the machine for the purpose of removing the severed clips. The air so passing
through the lace tends to lift up the severed ends of the clips or floats as they
approach the edge of the throat plate and assist in presenting them in proper
position to be mowed off by the rotary cutter. In order to compel the air to pass
through the perforated plate strip and also to produce the suction through the lace
plate, the machine is made as nearly air tight as possible except at the points where
it is arranged for the air to enter.
As the pattern or figure upon lace is often very much heavier than the general
thickness of the "net from which the body of the lace is formed, it follows that
in passing the lace over a straight throat plate, the thick portion comes too near to
the cutter before the thinner portions of the lace approach near enough to allow
the ends of clips being mowed closely to the fabric. To compensate for this
condition the edge of the throat plate strip is cut away where the thick portion of
the lace comes, sufficiently to allow that part of the lace to be held further from
the rotary cutter than it otherwise would be. The amount and position of this
cutting away of course varies in different kinds and patterns of lace, so that ability
to quickly and cheaply change the edge of the throat plate by the use of sheet
metal strips is of much importance.
Heretofore my foreign correspondents have used a comb extending entirely across
the lace, which could be lowered into position to prevent the lace being accidentally
cut by the action of rotary cutter, especially at the thicker portion of the lace, but
the comb is a disadvantage inasmuch as it interferes somewhat with the clips or
floats turning over properly to be mowed off. The combs are therefore made in

page_text: sections of different lengths and they are adjustably secured to the comb bar in any
desired position by means of a screw and nut working in a T-groove in the comb-
bar. By placing a comb of the proper width opposite the portion of lace requiring
protection and opposite the cutaway portion of the throat plate strip, as provided
above, when that is used, the safety of the lace is assured at this point, and the rest
of the lace not requiring the comb, will be more perfectly cleared. In place of the
comb a solid shield of the same section as the comb may be substituted, where
the part of the lace sought to be protected has no clips.
At the point where the pickers bear against the stationary blades, which
co-operate with the pickers in severing the clips or floats, it is necessary that a
small quantity of oil be provided, and it is desirable that this be done in such
manner as to insure its being constantly supplied in about the right quantity. To
accomplish this, a reservoir or reservoirs is or are formed in the upper part of the
bridge to which the stationary picker blades are attached, and from this reservoir
or reservoirs, the oil is conveyed to the upper inclined surfaces of the blades, which
are adjustably secured to the under side of the bridge. The oil, by this arrange-
ment, exudes from the joints between the bridge and the blades and runs down on
the surfaces against which the pickers bear. The oil is thus supplied in theoreti-
cally the best place for doing the work and there is no surplus oil to soil the lace,
as all that is not required to lubricate the pickers is carried away by the severed
clips in their passage out of the machine to the exhauster.
In order to adjust and secure the pickers to the detachable picker plates (when
these are used) or to the picker-carrying bars themselves, as used in the arrange-
ment for narrow machines, the picker-supports (whether plates or bars) are
formed with a tongue projecting from a flat surface, and in the side of the picker
shank a corresponding groove is made. The pickers at the end of the bar or
support toward the centre of the machine are made with two holes through the
shank, and the supports are made with pins, which enter these holes in the end
pickers. This gives the end picker an upright position and at the same time allows
the next and succeeding pickers to be pushed up against it along the tongue.
When the bar or plate is filled with pickers along its entire length, instead of
terminating the line with a regular picker, a piece of steel of the same width and
thickness as a picker is used which instead of having its lower end cut into the
form of a picker is rounded on its lower edge toward the side wall of the machine,
the other corner being left square. This protects the point or toe of the picker
adjacent to it, and prevents it from entering the net or fabric of the lace, serving
the same purpose that the heel of the adjacent picker serves to the point of the one
nearest to it, and so on through the line of pickers. An eccentric or other suitable
device is then used to compress the picker shanks together along the tongue until
they form a solid mass at the shank. A plate or strip suitably supported is then
placed over the shanks of the pickers and clamps are swung over it, which clamp
the pickers against the flat face of the picker carrier, or support. The toe of the
pickers being narrower than the shank, it follows that a space is left between the
toe of each picker and the heel of the succeeding picker in order to allow the floats
or clips to rise between and be picked up and severed. This arrangement allows
of pickers of various widths, thickness and heights of toe being used on the same
picker carrying bars or plates and secures them in an accurate and substantial
position.
In former machines the acting end of the picker in its movement described an
oval or ellipse, whose major axis was parallel with the lace plate. According to
the present invention, the two eccentrics on each side of the centre of lace plate
which impart the motion to the gangs of pickers, are so adjusted relatively to one
another that the major axis of the oval or ellipse on each side of the centre of the lace
plate is oblique to the lace plate, and inclines downward towards the middle of the lace
plate. The object of this arrangement is to cause the pickers, as they move backward
and downward, to act with greater certainty upon the floats or clips, which pass
between the toes and heels of adjacent pickers and are caught upon the former.

page_text: The motion of the pickers downward, to engage the floats or clips, is by this
arrangement, more nearly vertical than heretofore, and consequently surer to effect
the desired object.
Instead of giving the upper surface of the toe of the picker an angle rising
toward the cutting edge, this surface is made parallel in a transverse direction
to the lower side or end of the picker. This makes the toe or nose of the picker
parallel across its whole width, and allows the end to be nicely rounded in all
directions toward the upper or cutting surfaces. Instead of twisting the toe of
the picker so as to make the cutting edge approach the stationary blade nearer
than at the heel, we grind or lap the cutting side of the picker at a slight
angle, not only to a vertical line but also to a horizontal line through the centre
of the line of -pickers. This makes the end of the picker narrower at the heel
than at the toe and has the same effect (so far as the cutting edge-is concerned)
as twisting the picker, but is an improvement upon it, since it leaves the other side
of the picker parallel to the grooves in the lace plate.
It being necessary to guide the lace accurately through the machine so as to
have the selvedge edges or the "backs" pass through the centres of the grooves or
depressions made by the adjustable strips, adjustable gauges are provided under
which the lace passes as it enters the machine. Preferably these gauges are
attached by means of screws and nuts entering a T-groove cut in the face of a
bar which is laid in grooves cut in the side wall of the machine.
The upper
surface of this bar is square and the cover when closed fits against it. The
lower edge of the bar is rounded and comes about even with the upper
surface of the lace plate, and in order to allow the lace to pass freely a rounded
groove is cut in the lace plate under the bar. The gauge points are bent partly
around the front curved surface of the bar so as to approach the lace as nearly as
possible. By this arrangement, while the lace passes freely into the machine, but
little air passes in with it and the gauge points are close to the lace.
The clips or floats which have been severed by the cutting pickers as the lace
passes under the gangs of pickers are not only cut in two, but before they pass
beyond the action of the pickers are cut again and again, which separates portions
of the clips or floats entirely from the body of the lace. These severed portions of
clips get in behind the pickers and between them and the bridges carrying the
stationary blades, especially at the row of pickers toward the front of the machine
from which the lace is approaching. This is caused partly on account of the
severed ends of the clips which are directed toward the rear of the machine having
a tendency as the lace is fed through the machine to push through between the
pickers and upwards against the inclined surface of the stationary knife bridges
where they remain after being severed from the lace, and partly by the action of
the exhauster causing a current from the front to the rear of the machine which
draws the severed portions of the clips with it, and in some cases leaves them behind
the pickers. When the machine has been running awhile it is necessary to stop it
and with a pair of tweezers remove these severed clips which are packed in behind
the rows of pickers. To obviate this difficulty the picker carrying bars or slides
are made of such form that a current of air is drawn in by the action of the
exhauster from the outside of the machine between the stationary blade bridges and
the rows of pickers, coming out between the pickers. This current of air tends in
a measure to prevent the clips from going in behind the pickers, but should they get
there the said current has a tendency to eject them again, when they would be at
once carried upward and over the picker carrying bars or slides to the exit provided
at the rear of the machine. As there is little, or no, tendency of the severed
portions of the clips to get in behind the rear rows of pickers, or the pickers on the
rear side of the bridges, the bridges and picker carrying bars or sleeves are so
formed that the current of air brought in through them is directed only toward the
front rows of pickers. This at the same time prevents the current of air through
the machine before referred to from passing between the pickers and compels all
the air which enters the machine either through the lace plate from below or the

page_text: ir brought in through the picker carrying bars or slides, from above, to pass
pward and over the picker carrying bars or slides to the exit at the rear of the
nachine.
And in order that the said invention may be fully understood I shall now proceed
hore particularly to describe the same and for that purpose shall refer to the several
igures on the annexed sheets of drawings the same letters of reference indicating
orresponding parts in all the figures.
Figura is a plan view of a mnohive omhaving the several improvements.
Figure 1 15
Figures 104, 10" and 10" are detail views of the pickers,
Figure 11 is a plan view of the lace plate,
pronoter
Figures 12 and 13 are sectional views on lines 12 and 13 respectively (Figure 11).
Figures 14, 15 and 16 are enlarged detail views illustrating the mowing mechanism
and adjacent parts,
Figures 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25 are detail views illustrating the
automatic mechanism for retracting the throat-plate.
Figure 26 is a detail view showing part of ouc of the toothed spreading rollers.
In the machine shown in the drawings there are two double rows of pickers a
(Figure 5) extending practically across the entire machine, but each divided near
the middle line of the machine with two sets working in opposite directions, as in
former Letters Patent.
The pickers are carried by slides or sleeves A, which are mounted and slide
upon cross bars A¹ extending entirely across the machine. As seen in Figure 9
there is a pair of cross-bars for each double row of pickers. Cross bars A' have a
vertical movement derived from eccentrics (Figure 8) on the main shaft, while
the horizontal movement of the slides or sleeves A is derived from eccentrics on
the ends of the main shaft encircled by the straps (Figures 6, 7 and 8).
Consequently the pickers a move in an elliptical path which is the resultant of
these two movements, and as already explained the eccentrics are so placed
relatively to each other that the major axis of the ellipse is inclined downwardly
towards the middle of the lace-plate (Figure 10°).
The cross-bars A are attached by bolts or screws to the upwardly projecting
arms of vertical slides D (Figures 3 and 4) one on each side of the
machine, which are at their lower ends attached to the horizontal rod d. The
latter receives a vertical movement from the connection rod actuated by
eccentrics b. The slides D are guided and held in place by the upright bars
or guide-blocks D' (Figure 8) rigidly attached to a portion of the frame of the
machine. The slides are held upon these blocks by lateral flanges d' and gibs d³
overlapping the faces of the blocks as shown in Figure 1.
The picker-slides A are at their outer ends attached by means of short links c¹
(Figure 8) to the vertical arms c² of the rock shaft C, which is oscillated by the
connection rod c through a ball and socket connection, at the end of pin c.
Any suitable means for imparting the proper movements to the supporting bars
and picker slides may be employed in place of those described.
Each gang of pickers is preferably carried by a holding plate E (Figures 9 and 10)
detachably secured to the slide A by screw bolts e. Each picker plate E has a
small longitudinal tongue e¹ and in the shank of each picker is cut a corresponding
groove. In assembling a gang of pickers, the end picker towards the centre of the
machine (Figure 10) has two holes a³ into which fit corresponding pins projecting

page_text: from the support or plate. This fixes the first picker in an upright position, and
determines the positions of all the others which are fitted upon the tongue e' and
arranged in close contact along the entire plate. When the holding plate is
thus filled with pickers, a steel bar a is placed in the position which would be
occupied by the last picker, which bar acts as a guard to the toe or point of the
picker adjacent to it."
This bar has on its outer face a pin which fits in a groove in one end of
the guard plate or strip E', which is placed over the shank of the entire line
of pickers, and held in position by clamps E2. The outer end of strip E is
similarly supported by one of the pins which hold the end picker. When the
pickers are set in place along the tongue e an eccentric E' having a milled
surface for turning, is used-to compress the entire line, and when this is done the
position of the eccentric and of all the pickers is fixed by means of a lock nut E-
This method of mounting the pickers is useful whether they are carried by a
detachable holding plate, as shown, or attached directly to the bars or slides, as
heretofore. The pickers are set closer together, permitting the use of a larger
number than when a separate socket for each shauk is formed in the picker support.
The mounting moreover is simple and efficient, and admits of the ready removal of
an individual picker, or of the entire gang, as occasion may require.
As shown in Figures 1 and 5 there is, in addition to the two pairs of picker-
supporting cross bars, a single cross bar A¹, between them and the front of the
machine, which is similarly connected to and moved by the slides D. This single
cross-bar carries the brushes f, which act upon the lace in advance of the pickers.
The function of these brushes is primarily to loosen the picks or floats, which, as
the lace is received for picking, are stuck to the groundwork of the fabric. They
also act to spread or stretch the lace laterally and thus prepare it for the action of
the pickers. These brushes ƒ (Figures 5, 6 and 7) are carried by sleeves or slides,
mounted on bar A' and move in, the same manner as the pickers themselves, that is
they brush from the centre towards the sides of the machine. The brushes are
arranged in a double row, and each row is composed of four separate gangs or sets
(though the number may be greater or less). Each gang or set is carried by a
holding plate F, F, and so on secured to its slide by bolts, so as to be adjustable
vertically. The slides carrying the outer sets F1, F, are attached by short links f¹
to the vertical arins f2 of rock shafts C, and the intermediate sets F, F³ are
attached by links to the same arms 2, but at points nearer to the axes of the rock-
shafts C. Consequently the brushes at the sides of the machine have a larger
movement than those near the middle, and the lace is thereby effectually brushed
and spread over the entire surface.
Just inside the cover and in front of the brushes is a vertically acting clamp fª
(Figures 5 and 6) preferably having a strip of rubber let into its lower edge. This
clamp is carried by vertical pins f, which are normally pressed downward by
springs. When the pickers rise, however, the clamp is also lifted by arms f
carried by the slide D, which come in contact with the lower ends of the pins fo.
The function of this clamp is to assist in holding the lace while acted upon by the
brushes, so as to prevent the lace from being pulled by the brushes to one side or
the other of the proper line of feed. Between the two lines or rows of brushes
is a roller F (Figures 5 and 7) which rests upon the lace. In the periphery of
this roller are cut ratchet-shaped grooves, the vertical faces of these grooves at
each side being turned away from the centre of the machine. Consequently, as the
brushes rise after brushing and stretching the lace, the teeth of the roller engage
the surface of the lace and keep it extended. As shown in Figure 5, the lace plate
is grooved transversely beneath the roller, so as to extend the surface of contact
between the latter and the lace. The journal pins (Figure 7) of this roller are
guided vertically in slots f in the side frames of the machine, which slots extend
downwardly a slight distance below the journal pins when the roller is resting on
the lace plate; so that when the lace-plate is lowered, to, insert lace into the
machine, the roller remains suspended.

page_text: In its continued progress through the machine the lace passes under a series of
rollers (Figures 1,5 and 8) five of which are employed in the machine illustrated
in the drawings. These rollers are cut on one or both sides of the centre with
spiral threads forming grooves whose vertical faces are turned away from the
centre towards the outside of the machine. Their function is to continue the
spreading action upon the face during the whole time it is being acted upon by
the pickers.
These rollers are rotated positively in such direction that the under surface in
contact with the lace moves in the opposite direction to the travel of the latter.
This movement is derived from a pulley G (Figures 1, 3 and 6) on the shaft of one
of the rollers. This shaft also carries a sprocket-wheel g' (Figure 6) which trans-
mits motion by a drive chain g (Figure 1) to the next of the series of rollers, and
by similar gearing the motion is transmitted to the entire series. In some cases it
is desirable to give these rollers a slight vertical movement opposite to that of the
pickers, so that when the latter descend the rollers will rise, and vice versa, thus
alternately drawing more lace through the machine and giving it up as the pickers
descend upon it, after the manner of the take-up rollers described in the said former
Patents. This action relieves the lace of undue strain caused by the pickers
depressing it into the grooves of the lace-plate.
To this end the three intermediate rollers are journalled in plates G₁
(Figure 5) recessed into the side walls of the machine and having a slight vertical
play therein.
These plates are supported by upright rods g³ having bearings in brackets G',
and reciprocating through a bell-crank and connection rod from an eccentric
on the main shaft. Inasmuch as it is not always necessary or desirable to impart
this movement to the rollers, the actuating eccentric is usually provided with well
known means for setting it concentric with the shaft.
The best form of the rollers g will also depend upon the particular character of
the lace which is being acted upon. lu some patterns there is a "head" composed
of thick threads at one edge of the lace while at the other there is little but the net
or ground work, and in this case it is not desirable to employ spiral or spreading
threads on that part of rollers which act upon the head, but simply to hold it against
the drawing action of the spiral part of the roll. In other words, the particular
rollers used must be adapted to the work to be done, the object being always to
equalize the spreading action.
The rollers g as shown work in grooves or depressions in the lace plate, so
as to give the rollers a sufficient surface in contact with the lace to act properly
upon it.
It is found desirable to arrange a tension device to act upon the Ince between the
picker mechanism and the mowing mechanism, so as to cause the lace to bend
sharply over the edge of the throat plate. As shown this tension device consists of
a roller G (Figure 5) of proper weight. The journal pins G³ of this tension roller
(Figure 1) turn in vertical grooves in the side walls of the machine. The application
of a tension device between the pickers and nowing mechanism is important for the
reason already pointed out.
The throat plate over which the lace is bent while the rotating mower or cutter K
removes the severed clips is as shown, composed of a plate or strip H
(Figure 14) set between two clamping jaws H, H held together by screws H³,
the upper jaw H' being attached to the throat plate holder I, by screws H. The
holder I rests normally on a projection I' of the frame (Figure 5) and is supported.
at each side by a slide 1 which fits in a slot in the frame, and is attached by a link i
to an upright lever 1. The lever I on the right hand side of the machine
(Figure 4) has a handle 1 by which the throat plate is drawn back during the.
insertion of a piece of lace into the machine. A detent I with two hooks one at
each end is attached to the side of the machine in position to engage a spring
catch (Figures 17 and 18) on the lever 1* A spiral spring on the shaft to
which the levers 13 are attached (Figure 18) normally hold the levers in the position

page_text: shown in Figures 4 and 17, that is, so that the throat-plate occupies its forward
position.
When one of the seams by which the pieces of lace are held together passes over.
the edge of the throat plate H it is necessary that the latter be retracted a distance
sufficient to avoid the cutting of the lace by the blades of the mower. To
accomplish this, mechanism is provided for drawing back the throat-plate and its
holder at the proper moment, which mechanism is put into operation by a "setting
off" device, the latter being automatically actuated as a seam or extra-thickness
approaches the edge of the throat plate.
Referring to Figure 5 it will be seen that the lace, before reaching the throat
plate, passes between two rods m, m³ connected together at their ends by oblong
plates m². Rod m is journalled in holes m³ (Figure 14) in the throat plate holder I,
so that the whole device can turn on the axis of the rod m. The "setting-off"
device is a transversely arranged lever (Figures 1, 5 and 18) pivotted at to the
back of the holder 1. The inner end of this lever lies just beneath the lace under
the rod m', but not necessarily in contact therewith. The outer end of the lever
is just beneath a link or arm L (Figures 17, 24 and 25) pivotted at one end to the
vertical releasing lever M. A screw is interposed between the arm L and the
lever 1, and screwed into the latter. By means of this screw the proximity of
the inner end of lever to the lace passing above it can be regulated to a nicety.
A pivotted arm N hangs vertically from the frame, resting at its lower end
against a stop pin n, by which its movement in one direction is limited. This arm
carries an adjustable pin n' against which rests the link i carried by the pin, which
connects the link i with the throat plate holder I. Pin n' therefore determines the
proximity of the throat plate H to the mower K. Obviously, the movement of
the arm N to the left (Figure 17) will move the holder I and throat-plate in the
same direction. This desired movement is derived from a cam O (Figures 20
and 21) on a shaft O', which is the continuously rotating shaft of one of the feed
rollers 02. The hub of the cam O is loosely mounted on the said shaft, but can
slide thereon. It carries a dise 03 having on one face a projecting pin o adjacent
to which is a disc O, having a series of holes o' the disc being mounted on a
turning with the shaft O¹.
These two discs constitute a clutch. Cam O is constantly pressed in the direction
to bring the two members of the clutch together by means of a spring 06, but such
engagement is normally prevented by the end of the release lever M, which is
pressed by a spring M₁ into the groove, formed between the disc O³, and the edge
of a disengaging cam O*.
Near the free end of the arm L is a bell-crank lever P, which is constantly
vibrated by means of a link P¹ from the counterweight P (see Figure 4) or it may
be from some other moving part. The vertical arm of the lever P carries a pin
catch p, whose edge vibrates back and forth above and clear of the hook L' on the
end of the arm L. When a seam or joint of two pieces of lace passes over the
inner end of the setting-off lever 1, depressing it slightly, the outer end lifts
the arm La sufficient distance to bring the hook L' into the path of catch p (as
shown in Figure 24). This instantly sets off the draw-back mechanism for the
throat-plate, since the vibration of lever P actuates the release lever M through
the arm L, freeing the sleeve which carries the cam O, and permitting the spring O
to move the sleeve with its cam and clutch disc to the left (Figure 18) until the
pin o enters one of the holes o' in the disc 0; all the parts connected with disc O³
then begin to revolve, and continue to revolve for one full revolution of the feed
roll O. When the release lever M returns at the next vibration of the lever P,
its end strikes and is arrested by the edge of the cam 06, which has now moved
under it.
The setting-off lever acts a certain time before the seam actually reaches the
edge of the throat-plate, but the drawing back of the latter does not begin at once,
for by reference to Figure 17, it will be seen that the shaft of the feed-roller O'
turns through a considerable portion of a revolution before the cam O begins to act

page_text: on the arm N. Figure 25 shows the positions of the parts after the cam has
engaged and pushed back the arm N to the full extent, and the throat plate being
now open remains open, until the cam has passed the projecting point of the arm N,
against which it bears, when through the action of the spring ♬ (Figure 18) the
shaft and with it the lever I throat plate holder, and all connected parts, are
returned to their original positions.
As the actuating cam continues to revolve with the feed-roller and its shaft,
provision must be made to disengage and arrest it at the completion of one
revolution. This is effected mainly by the action of the disengaging cam O. This
extends only part way around the sleeve or hub, permitting the end of the release
lever M to fall into its groove. It will be understood, of course, that the hook L
becomes disengaged and returns to its first position so soon as the seam has passed
the inner end of the setting-off lever l. When the cam O has passed the arm N
and allowed the throat plate to return, an oblique side O' of cam 0° (Figure 20)
makes contact with the edge of the release-lever M and by the continued revolution
of the cam this contact of the said oblique side with the lever M causes the sleeve
to slide to the right so far as to withdraw the pin o from the hole in the disc 0 in
which it is engaged. This movement has brought the notch 08 in the edge of the
disc to the wedge-shaped end of a spring 0 (Figure 17) which gives the final
movement to the disc 03 so as to clear the pin o entirely from contact with the
face of the disc O', and to arrest the cam sleeve just at the completion of one
movement.
Since the actuating cam O derives its movement from the feed roll 0%, it is only
necessary in order to tine accurately the action of the draw back mechanism that
the cam should be arrested, at a determined distance from the arm N, that is
to say, about the distance between the setting-off lever and the edge of the
throat plate.
The lace after being moved passes down between the feed rollers 01 010
(Figure 5), thence under the block in which the mower K is journalled, and thence
vertically upward around a guide roller P in front of a display plate P, either
white or colored, as best adapted to exhibit the pattern of the lace, and permit
inspection by the operator. The lace is drawn upward over the display plate by
the feed rollers P, P, and finally passes over a roller P' to a basket or receptacle
placed to receive it. In operation the arms P8 by which the roller P' is carried,
may be extended horizontally, so as to prevent silk lace from being drawn by
electrical action against the frame of the machine, and all these rollers may be
rotated in the proper direction by belts and pulleys as shown in Figure 3.
The lace plate Q (Figures 5, 7, 11, 12 and 13) is adjustably supported on
cams Q', whose shafts are connected together by arms Q' and link Q' (Figure 4)
so that the lace plate can be lowered or adjusted as desired, substantially as
described in the said former Patents. The improvements in the lace plate are best
shown in Figures 11, 12 and 13, and consist principally in means for preventing the
"back" or selvedge of the lace from being picked up and cut by the pickers, which
means can be adapted or changed to suit different varieties of lace. As shown in
the drawings the upper surface of the lace plate, upon which the lace rests when
acted upon by the pickers, is formed by a series of transverse strips or bars y of
steel, adjustably and removably attached to the lace plate by nuts gl and holding
screws fitted into T-grooves in the top of the lace-plate. The effect of these
strips is practically to make channels, grooves or depressions extending across the
lace plate in the direction in which the lace travels. Such a groove, channel or
depression Qis shewn in Figures 11 and 12, extending across the middle of the
plate, and if a back or selvedge passes through the machine coincident with this
groove or channel, it will be drawn by the rollers 9 sufficiently below the level of
the main portion of the lace to avoid the points of the pickers. It is proposed to
supply with each machine several sets of strips of different lengths so that provision
may be made to vary the number, width and relative positions of the longitudinal
depressions or channels.

page_text: With respect to the selvedge or selvedges which lie at the extreme edges of the
breadth of lace, while it is desirable to depress them out of the way of accidental
cutting from the pickers, it is also desirable to have the spiral ratchet rollers g
continue their spreading action to the extreme outside edges of such selvedge. For
this purpose, provision must be made to depress the lace beneath the general
upper surface of the strips 9 on the edges of such strips, which constitute the
picker grooves, and to keep it raised to the normal surface at the edges adjacent
to the rollers.
This may be effected by bevelling the ends of the strips towards the picker
grooves and arranging above these bevelled ends guiding fingers q' having their
surfaces inclined downward towards the picker grooves, so as to hold the back or
selvedge safely below the points of the end pickers. The guiding fingers qʻ are
attached to the lace plate in the same manner as the strips g and are likewise
adjustable.
F.:
The removable throat-plate H (Figures 14 and 16) has a row of perforations h
through which air is drawn into the exhaust duct or pipe. The currents of air
passing through these holes assist in lifting the floats, and causing them to stand
out properly for the action of the mower.
The plate H also has an indented or cut away portion h¹ (Figure 16) and that
part of the lace which comes opposite this cut away portion of the plate will be held
further away from the cutter than the surface of the rest of the lace. This
indentation is intended to accommodate the thick pattern of the lace and of course,
its position and width must be varied with the different kinds of lace.
account the ability to quickly remove and change the throat plate is a matter of
importance.
On this
To further insure protection of the pattern from the blades of the mower there is
combined with the throat plate a guard, shown in the form of a section of a comb h³,
whose teeth extend to a point opposite the indentation in the throat-plate, and
effectually hold that portion of the lace out of the way of the cutter blades. The
width of the comb or guard used with any pattern of lace will correspond with that
of the indentations in the throat-plate, and if there be more than one such
indentation there must be several comb-sections or guards, properly placed. To
this end the comb-slide is removably and adjustably mounted on
a bar h³
extending across the machine, and secured thereto by a screw and nut h' the
latter sliding in a T-groove in the bar h (Figure 14).
In order that the pattern may register properly with the indentations of the
throat plate, and the backs or selvedges with the depressions formed by the adjust-
able surface strips of the lace-plate, it is necessary to guide the lace accurately into
the machine. To assist the operator in this we provide adjustable guages just
above the opening through which the lace passes into the machine. One of these
guages R is shown in Figures 2 and 5. It is adapted, by means of a screw and unt
to slide in a T-groove r, in a bar R', which extends across the front of the machine.
The lower surface of the bar is rounded and extends into a groove in the lace plate
beneath it, so as to be slightly below the upper surface of said plate, and thus
exclude air at this point, so far as possible.
The pickers in their operation co-operate, as heretofore with stationary blades S
(Figure 9) which are supported by bridges S¹ overhanging the lace-plate. Where
the pickers bear against the stationary blades it is necessary that a small quantity
of oil be constantly applied. For this purpose an oil reservoirs is formed in the
upper part of the bridge (or there may be several such reservoirs) and from this
reservoir oil is conveyed by ducts to the upper inclined surfaces of the blades
where these bear against the under surfaces of the bridges. Between these two
surfaces sufficient oil will escape to lubricate the pickers, but not enough to drip
upon and soil the lace. Any excess of oil will be taken up and carried away by the
several floats in their passage out of the machine.
The clips or floats in passing under the pickers are not only severed thereby, but
are cut again and again, so that portions thereof become completely detached. It

page_text: is desirable to prevent these loose threads getting in behind the pickers and
accumulating between them and the bridges St.
The action of the exhauster heretofore tended to draw the severed floats in
between the shanks of the pickers. To obviate the inconvenience above noted
currents of air are caused to pass from between the pickers outwardly so that the
entrance of clips between the pickers is opposed, and any that may find admission
are rejected, by the air currents.
Currents of air from outside the machine are drawn in by the exhauster through
vertical flues S (Figures 8 and 9) passing down through the picker-slides A and
terminating just above the bridges S. Since there is little or no tendency for
severed clips to enter behind the rear line of the double row of pickers, the picker-
slide on this side is caused to bear against the bridge, so as to close the outlet on
that side and divert the air current towards the opposite side of the bridge. To
further guide the air currents between the pickers of the front row, the opening at
each end of the row of pickers is partly closed by a plate S³ (Figure 9) attached to
the picker slide.
After escaping between the shanks of the pickers, the air carrying the loose clips
is drawn upwardly over the picker carrying slides, and rearwardly through the free
space just beneath the cover (as indicated by the arrows Figure 5). After passing
the pickers the air is drawn between the mower and throat-plate into a horizontal
duct S, and out of the machine by the upright pipe S', with which the exhauster
is connected.
The construction of the pickers a (Figures 10, 10ª, 10B, 10°) has been somewhat
modified and improved. The upper surface of the toe a¹, was formerly inclined
upwards in a transverse direction, towards the cutting edge. The surface is now
made so that all transverse lines are parallel with the under surface of the toe, in
order that the end of the latter can be properly rounded in all directions towards
the upper surface.
Heretofore the toe of the picker was twisted or deflected, so as to make the
cutting edge approach the stationary blade nearer than the heel. The cutting
side a of the pickers is now shaped to a slight angle horizontally, making the
picker narrower at the heel than at the toe, (as shewn in Figure 10") and also at an
angle vertically (as shown in Figure 10°) making the toe narrower across its under
surface than across its upper surface. This construction has the same effect, so far
as concerns the cutting action, as twisting the pickers, but it leaves the other side a³
of the toe parallel with the picker groove, which is an advantage.
The counterweight P (Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8) is operated substantially as in the
said former Patents. It is carried by a rod T supported and balanced by springs t
(Figure 8) and is reciprocated in opposition to the movement of the picker-supports
by connection rods Ts from eccentrics T on the main shaft B. The rod d' which
communicates motion to the picker-carrying bars is also balanced by springs T³,
and is adjustable as heretofore.
Except in the particulars herein pointed out, the machine is substantially similar
in construction and operation to that described in the Specifications of Patents
hereinbefore referred to, and it will therefore be unnecessary to explain further its
mode of operation.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a machine for clipping lace, the combination with the lace plate, of picker-
carrying slides or sleeves, cross-bars upon which said slides or sleeves are mounted,
means for reciprocating said slides or sleeves horizontally, and means for
reciprocating said bars vertically, substantially as described.
2. The combination with the lace plate of the cutting-pickers, supports therefor,
and mechanism for moving said pickers in an elliptical path whose major axis is
inclined towards the lace plate, substantially as described.

page_text: 3. The combination with the picker-supports of a gang of pickers fitted thereto
by a tongue and groove connection and arranged in a continuous line with the
shanks of adjacent pickers in contact, substantially as described.
4. The combination with the picker-support of a row of pickers arranged in a
continuous line with the shanks of adjacent pickers in contact, and clamped together
upon said support in such manner as to permit their ready removal, substantially as
described.
5. The combination with the reciprocating picker-support, of a holding plate, a
row of pickers attached to said plate and clamping devices detachably securing said
plate to said supports, substantially as described.
6. The improved cutting picker for lace clipping machines, said picker having the
upper surface of its toe-portion parallel in a transverse direction with the under
surface, substantially as described.
7. The improved cutting picker, having its cutting side inclined at an angle
horizontally and vertically so that the picker is narrower across its under surface
than across its upper surface, and wider at the toe than at the heel, substantially as
described.
8. In a machine for clipping lace the combination with the picker mechanism, of
brushes arranged to act upon the surface of the lace in advance of the picker-
mechanism substantially as described.
9. The combination with. the lace plate and picker mechanism of brushes,
extending across the lace-plate in advance of the picker-mechanism, and the brushes
being divided near the middle of the lace plate into two sets, and means for
operating the brushes so that they brush and stretch the lace towards the edges
thereof, substantially as described.
10. The combination with the lace-plate and picker-mechanism of brushes
extending transversely across the lace-plate, for brushing the lace from the middle
towards the edges of the said plate, and operating mechanism for imparting to the
brushes near the edges of the plate a longer movement than that of the intermediate
brushes, substantially as described.
11. The combination with the brushes and mechanism for reciprocating the
brushes transversely to the lace-plate, of a serrated roller, resting in action upon
the lace adjacent to the brushes, substantially as described.
12. The combination with two lines of reciprocating brushes, of a roller having
ratchet-shaped teeth resting upon the lace between the two lines of brushes,
substantially as described.
13. The combination with the transversely and vertically reciprocating brushes,
of a clamp bearing upon the lace in advance of the brushes, and means for lifting
the clamp when the brushes rise, substantially as described.
14. The combination with the lace-plate, pickers and feed mechanism, of a
series of spreading rollers having spiral ratchet-shaped teeth, substantially as
described.
15. The combination with the lace-plate, pickers and feed-mechanism, of the
spreading rollers, removably supported above the lace plate, said rollers having
screw-threads for spreading the lace from the centre towards one or both ends, and
means for rotating said rollers in opposition to the movement of the feed, substan-
tially as described.
16. The combination with the lace-plate, pickers and feed mechanism, of
spreading rollers having ratchet-shaped screw threads, vertically reciprocating
supports for said rollers, means for moving said supports in a direction opposite to
the movement of the pickers, and means for rotating said rollers, substantially as
described.
17. The combination with the picker-mechanism, the mowing mechanism and the
feed mechanism of a tension device exerting constant tension upon the lace
between the picker mechanism and mowing mechanism, substantially as described.
18. In a machine for clipping lace, having mechanism for severing the floats or
clips, the combination with the rotary cutter and moveable throat-plate, of

page_text: mechanism for drawing back the throat plate and returning it to its normal position,
and a setting-off device or lever actuated by contact with the seam or extra thickness
of fabric, for setting said mechanism into operation, substantially as described.
19. In a lace clipping machine, the combination with the rotary cutter, moveable
throat-plate and feed-rolls, of a cam, loosely mounted on the shaft of one of the
said feed rollers, clutch mechanism for engaging the said cam with said shaft, a
release lever normally holding said cam disengaged, a spring acting in opposition
to said lever, a setting-off lever actuated by contact with a seam for effecting the
withdrawal of said release lever and the consequent engagement of said cam with
said shaft, connections between said cam and throat-plate whereby the latter is
withdrawn by the former, and means for disengaging and arresting said cam at the
end of a revolution, substantially as described.
20. The combination with the rotary cutter of a throat-plate support, and a
throat-plate consisting of a thin bar or strip having a portion cut away for the
purpose specified, and being removably secured in said support, substantially as
described.
21. The combination with the rotary cutter of a throat-plate having its edge
indented or cut away for passage of the pattern; substantially as described.
22. The combination with the rotary cutter, and indented throat plate, of a
guard preferably in the form of a comb, opposite the intended portion of the
throat-plate, substantially as described.
23. The combination with the pickers, of a lace plate, having a longitudinal
depression, groove or channel running in the direction of the feed of the fabric,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
24. The combination with the pickers, of a lace-plate having adjustable and
removable surface-strips, substantially as described.
25. The combination with the pickers, of the lace-plate, and surface strips forming
picker-grooves transversely of said plate, and extending from each side part way
across the plate, forming a groove or grooves lengthwise of said plate, substantially
as described.
26. The combination of the lace-plate provided with adjustable surface-strips,
the pickers working in grooves formed between said strips, and the rollers working
in other grooves between said strips, and acting to depress the lace where the same
is not supported by said strips, substantially as described.
27. The combination with the pickers and ratchet-rollers of the lace-plate having
surface strips forming ridges between which the pickers and rollers respectively
operate, said ridges being at the ends bevelled off from the roller side of the ridge
towards the picker side, and guiding fingers for depressing the edge of the lace
away from the pickers, substantially as described.
28. The combination with the picker-mechanism, and the spreading rollers
parallel with the rows of pickers, of a lace-plate and adjustably surface strips
therefor, forming between them grooves for the pickers, and rollers respectively,
said stripe having straight vertical edges on the picker-groove side and rounded
edges on the opposite side, substantially as described.
29. In combination with the feed mechanism, picker mechanism and the indented
throat-plate, of a guage or indicator adjustable across the front of the machine to
indicate the position of the indentation in said plate, substantially as described.
30. The combination with the reciprocating pickers of the cooperating stationary
blades and supports therefor containing oil reservoirs and ducts leading from said
reservoirs through the supports to the surface against which the said blades bear,
substantially as described.
31. The combination with the reciprocatory pickers, of bridges or supports, and
stationary blades, secured in an inclined position against the under surface of said
bridges or supports, the latter being provided with oil reservoirs and ducts leading
to said blades, substantially as described.
32. The combination with the lace-plate and with a row of pickers, of pipes or

page_text: flues, for conveying currents of air behind said pickers, and through the spaces
between the several pickers, substantially as described.
33. In a lace clipping machine, the combination of the lace-plate, a double row
of pickers above the lace-plate, a cover enclosing the pickers and forming an air
passage above the same from the front to the rear of the machine, and an exhaust
or discharge pipe to which said passage leads, substantially as described.
Dated the 18th day of September 1893.
J. H. JOHNSON & Co.,
Agents.