Improvements in Button-hole Stitching Machines.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Oct., 1898-Accepted, 21st Jan., 1899
[Communicated from abroad by FREEBORN FAIRFIELD RAYMOND 2d of Newton, in
the County of Middlesex, and State of Massachusetts, United States of America,
Counsellor at Law.]
Improvements in Button-hole Stitching Machines.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent Agents,
45, Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to a button-hole stitching and barring machine in which
there is organized a clamp for holding the work or material in which the button-
hole is being stitched, which is mounted upon a bed and is adapted to hold the
work stationary excepting during the stitching of the bar end and eye, when
it is provided with a slight lateral movement first in one direction and then in a
reverse direction from its median line, a travelling button-hole cutter and a
travelling anvil which is also provided with an additional movement whereby it
is brought into operative relation with the material held by the clamp and
with the button-hole cutter and held in such relation during the cutting operation
and then returned to its original position, a frame or support carrying the stitch
forming devices and button-hole cutting devices which is provided with an
intermittent movement upon a straight line upon its support forward and back,
and which presents the stitching devices to the work or material held by the
clamp, and which stitching devices are turned or rotated during the stitching of the
eye and returned to their original position at the end of the stitching of the button-
hole. There are also organized in the machine means for starting the machine
upon the movement of the work clamping lever, for operating the cutting
mechanism and the stitching mechanism by a single belt, for automatically shipping
the belt, for automatically connecting and disconnecting a loose wheel with the
button-hole cutter operating mechanism. The machine also has clamp spreading
mechanism and stitcher returning devices and means for stitching a barring end
of a peculiar character to the button-hole.
Before I describe the construction of the machine specifically, I will further
describe the invention generally by giving the operation of the machine. The
work or material is placed in the button-hole clamp and the clamping lever moved
to depress the upper members of the clamp upon the material or work, thus clamp-
ing it to the lower members thereof and at the same time starting the operation of
the cutting mechanism and cutting the button-hole by the immediate or instantaneous
descent of the cutter to the cutting anvil which is at the same instant moved forward
beneath the material to receive it, the throat, its support and its operating devices
being moved forward at the same time to make place for the anvil. The cutter and
anvil are instantly withdrawn and the throat and lower needle restored to their
original and operative position and the anvil to its inoperative position, and during
the remainder of the operation of the machine the cutter and anvil are inoperative.
The work clamp is immediately spread and the stitch forming devices which are in

page_text: their forward position and beyond the rear end of the button-hole are set in
operation. The work clamps then hold the material in such position that the first
two or three stitches are taken across the material beyond the end of the
button-hole and upon a diagonal advancing line, the work clamps moving slightly
laterally while the stitching frame is being advanced and until the under needle
enters the end of the button-hole slit. The work clamps then hold the material
stationary while the stitching devices are advanced along one side of the slit in a
straight line to the beginning of the stitching of the eye, when the work clamps
are again moved laterally first inwardly from the median line of the button-hole,
then backward, and as great a distance upon the other side of the median line and
then in a reverse direction to very nearly the position which it occupied during the
stitching of the first straight side, when it is held stationary during the stitching
of the second side and until the end of the button-hole slit is reached, when it is
moved diagonally to the position it occupied at the beginning of the stitching
operation, and which causes additional stitches to be sewed in advancing order
across the material beyond the end of the button-hole slit and over those first sewed
until the last stitch taken practically covers or is in line with the first stitch taken.
During the lateral movements of the clamps at the stitching of the eye, the stitch
forming devices are rotated a half revolution, the end of said half revolution taking
place at the beginning of the stitching of the last straight side, and they are held
stationary during the said stitching of the last side and until after the making of
the last bearing stitch, when they are released and permitted to return to their
original position, as will hereinafter appear.
will now proceed with a description of the drawings and with a detailed
description of the construction and operation of the machine.
Figure 1 is a view of the machine in right side elevation.
Figure 2 is a view in left side elevation.
Figure 3 is a view in front elevation.
Figure 4 is a view in vertical central section taken lengthwise the machine.
Figure 5 is a view of the machine in plan inverted.
Figure 6 is a view in horizontal section upon the dotted line 6-6 of Figure 1.
Figure 7 is a view in vertical cross-section upon the dotted line 7-7 of Figure 1.
Figure 8 is a detail view in vertical section of a portion of the mechanism for
operating the cutting devices.
Figure 9 is a view in perspective of a portion of the belt shifter and mechanism
adjacent thereto.
Figure 10 is a detail view representing a part of the stopping mechanism of
the cutter.
Figure 11 is a detail view of a section of the cam wheel which operates the
stitching frame and the clamp plate.
Figure 12 is a detail view representing the cutting mechanism.
Figure 13 is a detail view representing the starting mechanism.
Figure 14 is a view in plan of a gear or wheel showing part of the stopping
mechanism of the cutter, and a cam for turning back the stitching mechanism.
Figure 15 is a view in front elevation of the devices for operating the lower
needle and looper.
Figure 16 is a view in rear elevation and Figure 17 is a view in vertical section
on line 17-17 of Figure 16.
Figure 18 is a view in perspective to further illustrate the manner of supporting
and operating the looper.
Figure 19 is a view showing the relation of the button-hole cutter, button-hole
anvil, upper needle and lower section of the stitch forming devices at the end of the
cutting operation, the view being taken from the side of the machine opposite that
from which Figure 12 was taken, and showing also the anvil, its support and lower
portion of the stitch forming devices in vertical section.
Figure 20 is a detail view enlarged representing a portion of the rack for turning
the under section of the stitch forming devices and especially representing the

page_text: shape of the teeth of the rack whereby the pinion on said devices may be moved
slightly from a vertical axis in relation thereto.
Figures 21, 22 and 23 represent the mechanism for transferring laterally the
clamp plate and clamps at the end of the stitching operation and while the machine
is coming to rest in order that it may be restored to the position which it should
occupy at the beginning of the sewing of the next button-hole in order.
Figures 24 and 24 are views enlarged of the portion of the cam actuating clamp
plate and clamps and especially the part which is operative to transfer the clamp
plate and clamps for the purpose indicated in the description of Figures 21, 22
and 23.
Figure 25 is a view in the form of a diagram of the said cam for providing the
clamp plate and clamps with their lateral movements.
Figure 26 is a view of the clamp plate removed from the machine.
Figure 27 is a detail view enlarged of the mechanism for shifting the belt and
the stop mechanism to which reference will hereinafter be made.
Figure 28 is a view in side elevation of the frame of the machine showing the
upper or main section thereof and the lower bracket bolted thereto and also showing
in dotted outlines the bed upon which the frame is moved lengthwise of it and the
support for the front end of the bracket.
Figure 29 is a view in perspective enlarged, of the button-hole cutter lever
removed from the machine.
Figure 30 is a view in perspective enlarged, of one side of the clutch for
operating the frame feeding mechanism.
Figure 31 is a view in perspective enlarged of the opposite side of said clutch.
Figures 32, 33, 34, 35, and 35* illustrate the various transverse movements of
the cloth clamp lever in relation to a median line drawn through the centres of
the button-hole slits, as represented in Figure 34 and to which reference is
hereinafter made.
Figure 35 is a diagrammatic view of the development of a button hole.
Figure 36 is a view enlarged of a portion of a stitched button-hole representing
in dotted lines the course of the needles due to the movements communicated to
the clamp plate.
Figure 37 is a view enlarged farther illustrating the course which the stitch
forming devices take because of said movement of the clamp plate.
Like letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the various figures.
A is the main shaft of the machine. It is supported by the moving or travelling
frame B which carries the stitching and cutting mechanism. It has at its outer
end the two belt wheels a, a' and they are shaped and arranged so that the driving
belt may be shifted from one to the other by the belt shifter a². The belt wheel a
is fast to the main shaft A. The belt wheel is loose on said shaft and has a
hub a which carries a gear wheel at and which gear wheel is connected by
means of the intermediate gears 5, a6 upon the stud a', with the gear wheel C
(see Figures 1, 3 and 7). This gear wheel C has a hub c, (see Figure 8) which is
mounted upon the hub of a disc C₁, the said disc and hub being
mounted upon a stud c², cast on or otherwise attached to the travelling frame B
of the machine. The office of the gear wheel C is to operate, through the disc C¹,
the cutter at the beginning of the operation of the machine and to revolve lyack,
by means of a cam, the stitching mechanism at the end of the operation of the
machine. It also serves, through the said disc, to spread the material holding
and slit-spreading clamps and to actuate the belt shifter. The disc C¹ is connected
with the button-hole cutter C2 by means of the lever c³, which carries at its forward
end the cutter, and which is pivoted at c to the travelling frame B and is connected
at its rear end with the disc by a pitman attached to the disc by a crank pin c.
(see Figures 1, 2, 3, 8 and 12). The pitman is made adjustable as to length to
adjust the cutter C2 in relation to the anvil, being made in two parts c, c8 which
are connected by a right and left screw co, (see Figures 1 and 12). The gear
wheel C is connected with the crank disc C by a clutch 03, (see Figure 13) and

page_text: this clutch is represented as actuated by the starting lever C which also actuates.
the devices for depressing the clamp arms of the work clamp as will hereinafter be
described.
The lever C is attached by the shaft 10 to a post crising from the clamp,
plate D (see Figure 4) and there is secured to the shaft to be turned by it, the
cam d having a depressing and locking surface d¹ which is turned against the
yielding arms d² of the clamps D¹ to depress them to clamp the work and to hold
them depressed; the clamp arms are secured to the clamp plate D.at . There is
attached to the end of the cam d opposite the starting lever a tripping pawl ca,
(see Figure 13). This pawl is pivoted at c¹ to said cam end and has a swinging
movement upon said pivot, which is limited by a suitable stop pin. The pawl is
also overbalanced by its end 15 so that normally it has the position shown in full,
lines in Figure 13. Upon the movement of the starting lever C upward and
backward to the position represented by the dotted outline in Figure 13, the pawl
is caused to be moved and brought into contact with the inclined end e¹6 of the
rock lever c, which is pivoted at 18 to the travelling frame and by such contact
moves downward the forward end of said rock lever and lifts its rear end
from engagement with the clutch pawl or fingers c, the pawl 2 riding by the
depressed incline 16 and passing beyond the same and then being free to ride over.
upon the backward movement of the frame, and the end c¹6 of the rocking lever
which is immediately returned and without then disturbing its position or operating,
the clutch.
The clutch pawl or lever c¹ is pivoted by the pivot 20 to the crank disc C1, (see.
Figures 9 and 31) and there is also carried by the pivot a second pawl or finger c
The two pawls c19, 21 are secured together or may be made in one piece if desired.
The pawl 1 is held in a recess 22 on the face of the gear wheel C, (see Figure 13)
having the shoulders 33, with one of which the end of the pawl cat is adapted to
be brought into contact when the end of the rock lever 17 has been lifted
sufficiently to permit the pawl c19 to ride or move by it, the said movement being
given to the said pawl and also to the pawl 2 by the spring 25 which is attached
to the crank disc C¹ and bears against the pawl c¹³.
To start the machine the starting lever C+ is moved backwards and upwards..
This will cause the end of the rock lever c to be lifted sufficiently, to disengage
the clutch pawl 21 which is then immediately moved by its spring into line with
and becomes engaged by one of the shoulders 23 of the gear wheel C which it should
be remembered is constantly rotating while the driving belt of the machine is on
the pulley a¹. The gear C is thus connected with the crank disc C¹ and serves to
turn the disc one revolution or until the clutch pawl is disengaged from it. The.
end of the rocking lever 17 is immediately returned to its original position by
the flat spring 2, (see Figures 5 and 13) which is attached to the travelling frame.
and which bears upon the under surface of the forward end and is thereby brought
into position to engage the pawl at the end of said revolution of the crank
disc, arrest its progress, cause it to disengage the pawl 21 from the shoulder
and thereby stop the rotation of the crank disc. The rock lever in Figure 13 is
shown in full lines as engaging the said pawl c and in dotted outline as disengaged;
from said pawl. The crank disc C' also serves to operate the belt shifter a². This
belt shifter is pivoted to the travelling frame at a³. The belt passes through a
hole formed in its outer end, and it has a downward extending arm ³ which is:
engaged by the crank disc. The belt shifter is moved in an inward direction
by the spring a¹0 (see Figures 1 and 6) and in a reverse direction by a cam all on, 5
the crank disc, the cam operating against the inner side of the said arm a³ at,
its lower end. The cam a Figures 1 and 9 serves to move the belt shifter outward.
to transfer the belt from the pulley a¹ to the pulley a at the end of the revolution of;
the crank dise C¹. This permits the gear C to be stopped and immediately starts.
the revolution of the main shaft A and brings into play a locking device which, 5
locks the belt shifter in its outward position against the stress of the spring, a¹0
and holds the belt upon the pulley a during the stitching operation. This locking

page_text: device comprises the stitcher frame feed wheel B' and the arm a¹ (see Figure 9)
attached to and extending inward from the belt shifter and the end 3 of which
bears against the face a¹ of the said feed wheel B', during its entire revolution,
excepting when opposite the hole therein, which is brought into line with the
end of said arm at the completion of the stitching of the button-hole, and which
permits the arm to be moved inward and also the belt shifter by its actuating
spring and thereby permits the belt shifter to shift the belt from the pulley a to
the pulley al The feed wheel B has attached to its face a plate a, which is
adapted to fill or cover said hole 15, and which is brought into play at the starting
of the main shaft. It is pivoted to the feed wheel at a17 by its arm a¹8, and a
spring 19 attached to the wheel and bearing against said plate, serves to move it
to the closed position represented in Figure 10. As the feed wheel B' approaches
the end of its revolution the rear end of the arm 12 comes into contact with the
raised end a20 of said plate and moves it from the closed position represented in.
Figure 10 to that represented in Figure 9, uncovering the hole and permitting the
endwise movement of the arm, in relation to the wheel, the end of the arm entering
the hole.
Upon the outward movement: of the belt shifter to move the belt from the.
pulley a to the pulley a at the starting of the machine, the plate a¹ is immediately
close behind the end of said arm or to the position represented in Figure 10, the
cam a moving the belt shifter and arm outwardly sufficiently to permit this closing
action of the plate: The arm a³ is formed. in the shape of a hook at its lower
end, and by the spring is then closed behind the cam all, thus serving as a stop or
pawl for preventing the disc from turning backward, and this slight movement.
brings. the rear end a¹³ of the arm into contact with the outer face of the
plate a!6.
The movement of the belt shifter to transfer the belt from the pulley a¹ to the
pulley a also moves the stop pin 21, which is formed on the arm 2, into contact
with a stop in the groove a in the inner face of the gear wheel C, Figure 14. the
object, being to check the momentum of the said wheel after the belt has been
moved from its operating pulley, a', also to prevent it from turning when it is not
being operated, and also to prevent it from being started too quickly as will herein-
after appear
To accomplish this, there is in the groove or recess a flat spring a, Figures: 14.
and 27. the free end of which is normally held outward from the bottom of the
groove and is adapted to be pressed into the groove towards its bottom, and beyond
the end of this. spring is a stop a. There is a space a between the end of the
spring and the stop of a width to receive the stop pin. The disc C continuing its
rotation, brings the spring into contact with the end of the stop pin and the
spring then acts to check its rotation gradually and as a brake, but the rotation is
not entirely checked until the spring has ridden by the pin and the pin brought
into contact with the stop a24. The gear wheel C will then be held from revolving
in one direction by the stop a24 and in the reverse direction by the end of the
spring This stopping point also bears relation to the cam for revolving back.
the stitching mechanism, which is attached to the gear wheel; (see Figure 14) and
which will hereinafter be described, the object being to prevent the said cam from
actuating the mechanism for turning back the stitching devices until the stitching.
operation is finished and the needles are clear of the work.
It will be understood that when the machine is not in operation, the belt is con-
stantly running on the loose pulley a¹ and the loose pulley and the gear wheel C
are constantly turning but are doing nothing; and upon the starting movement
of the starting lever the gear-wheel C engages, by a clutch, the crank disc C', and the
crank disc C then makes one revolution, operating the cutter and also operating
at the end of its revolution the belt shifter, and the belt is then moved by the
belt shifter from the loose pulley a¹ to the pulley a, causing the travelling frame
and stitching mechanism to be started. The belt is so held by the belt shifter in
contact-with the said pulley a until the button-hole has been completely stitched,

page_text: the loose pulley and the gear wheel C coming to a stop and remaining stationary
during the stitching operation. At the end of the stitching operation,
the belt shifter shifts the belt from the pulley a to the pulley al
and the gear C is again set in operation, actuating the devices for
turning back the stitching mechanism to their normal position, and after so
turning back the stitching devices, it continues to revolve without actuating the
machine, but being in readiness to immediately engage the disc C¹ upon the starting
movement of the starting lever.
The travelling frame carries all the operative mechanism of the machine except-
ing the cloth clamping plate and devices. It is given a travelling movement upon
and in the bed B2 backward and forward in a straight line. It is made in two
parts, namely: The arm which is above the bed plate and the base 6' of which
bears upon
the
upper surface of the bed at each side, and the lower section B³,
which is shaped as represented in Figures 2 and 28 and is bolted to the base b¹.
The frame is provided with the opening 2 Figure 7 and the inner edges 63 of
this opening serve as guides in conection with the section of the travelling frame
between them. The lower part 13 extends forward below the base plate and is
supported in guideways Figure 3 upon the inner surface of the forward legs.
E is the upper needle. It is straight and eye-pointed. It is carried at the lower
end of the needle bar e which has a vertical reciprocating movement in the forward
end of the arm b, said movement being given it by means of the bent lever el pivoted
at e² to the arm and a crank pin e³ on the crank disc e at the inner end of the main
shaft A, the crank pin working in a curved cam slot of peculiar shape at the
lower end of the vertical part of the bent lever (see Figure 2). As the crank
pin e is turned, it traverses the slot e from one end to the other and the cam slot is
so curved that as the pin approaches its lower end it increases the speed of the
upper needle and moves it very rapidly. This is largely owing to the shape of
the cam slot, and the slot is also so shaped that while the crank is upon the upper
part of its movement, the needle is moved very slowly and but very little, and this
gives to the upper needle the movements which it is necessary for it to have in
relation to the lower needle, namely: An accelerated downward movement and
retarded upward movement with a substantial period of rest in its highest position,
and the mechanism for accomplishing this is very simple in construction and direct
in its action. The needle bar e passes through a gear F and reciprocates in relation
to it. The gear is attached to the needle bar by means of a fast feather or spline
which enters a groove in the bar and it is supported by the lower horn 65 of the
arm b and attached to it, it having a hub f Fig. 4 which enters a hole f¹ in said
horn, the said hub having a recess 2 which receives the point of a screw f³.
Figure 1 the point not bearing against it but simply preventing it from
rising from the horn. This gear F is engaged by the end f of an S-shaped rack
bar and a yoke f having a cam roll fo, Figure 7 which is moved outward by a
cam fastened to the feed disc. The yoke is supported upon the hub f7 of the
feed disc B¹ and has the slot f to permit it to travel in relation thereto. It also has
upwardly extending arm f which is connected with the inner end of the said
upper S-shaped rack bar F¹. It also has a downwardly extending arm f10 which
is connected with a lower S-shaped rack bar which will hereinafter be referred to.
E is the lower needle. (see Figures 15, 16 and 17). It is straight and is eye-
pointed. It is mounted upon the upper end of a slide block mounted in an
inclined slide-way e in the rotating support E2. It is reciprocated by means of a
reciprocating bar 68 carried by said support, and a levere pivoted at elo and
connected at el with the slide block e by a pin and cross slot or by means of a
link. The reciprocating bar is connected with the lever by a pin e12 and slot e¹3
or a link connection. The bar is reciprocated by means of the bent lever et
Figure 2 pivoted at el suitably connected at its outer end with the lower end of
said armes and receiving motion from a cam groove e¹6 in the back side of a disc e¹
Figure 4 on the main shaft A, the said groove being connected with the upper end
of the bent lever e¹ by means of a lever e¹8 pivoted at e¹, the upper end of which

page_text: carries a cam pin which enters the said cam groove e16, and the lower end of which
is connected with said lever by a link e20. The cam groove is constructed to give
the needle an upward movement, then a slight dropping movement, then a rest
and then a renewed upward movement and then a continuous downward movement
to its lowest position.
E3 is the looper shown in elevation in Figure 15 and in perspective in Figure 18.
It is moved past the upper needle to take the loop therefrom as the upper needle
is lifting from its lowest position, and it carries the loop back of the under
needle as the latter needle is falling and then holds it over the under needle unit
the under needle has taken it, when it returns in the same path to its original
position. It is moved backward and forward by means of the reciprocating
pine, which is extended through a cam groove e in the cam lever e2, which
is pivoted at 2 upon the pin e2 and connected with the looper holder e to the
upper end of which the looper is attached. The lever engages the looper holder
at e by means of a recess in its end in which the looper holder slides, the looper
holder being attached to the end of the pivot and having a transverse or
horizontal movement with said pivot in addition to the rocking movement
imparted to it by the cam e2 and lever e22. The horizontal movement is given
to it by the end of the pin c¹ which comes in contact at the desired time with a
projection or came on a lever e pivoted at 20, the upper end of which is con-
nected with the said pine at 20 (See Figure 17). As the pin e¹² is lifted
upward by the reciprocating bar es, its end rides upon the projection e27 and
moves the lever outward, carrying the looper holder with it and moving the
looper transversely, the lever and looper holder returning to their original
position after the pin has left the projection upon its upward movement, and the
downward movement of the pin repeats the movements so that the looper is
caused to be moved transversely in relation to the lower needle as the looper is
moved forward, and also transversely in relation to the said lower needle as it .
is moved backward. A coil spring e about the pin e24 (see Figure 17) is compressed
by the outward movement of the lever 28 as the end of the pin e¹2
passes the
cam 27, and serves to return the lever after the pin has passed said cam or bunch,
the object being to keep the lever in contact with the end of the pin at all times.
E is the button in which the throat of the machine is formed and it is attached
to the upper end of the ratary support 12. The rotary support is mounted in a
sleeve or holder E Figures 4 and 19. It is free to be turned forward and back
in said holder or sleeve and the holder or sleeve is pivoted upon each side at e
Figures 1 and 2 to the forked end of the lower section 133 of the frame. The
lower part of the rotary support E2 has the cylindrical section and flange e
(see Figures 15, 16 and 17) and its holder or sleeve E5 has recesses of two
diameters e36, 37 to receive from below the said cylindrical section and flange and
a cap plate e, fastened to the under surface of the holder E5, laps upon the under
surface of the rotary support, (see Figure 4).. The said holder or support E5 is
adapted to be tilted or turned slightly upon its pivots to transfer the rotating
support at its upper end and throat sufficiently to move the said upper end, the
lower needle, looper and throat out of line with the upper needle and an anvil G
into the position which the button or throat had occupied in part; that is, in a
position below the cutter, the forward point of the anvil being in line just back
of the line of movement of the upper needle. The anvil is carried upon an arm g
(see Figures 4 and 12) which is integral with the said holder or sleeve E and
which is back of the rotary support E³.
Upon the starting of the machine, the upper end of the support, E2, the throat,
looper and lower needle are tilted out of operative or sewing position and the
anvil moved into operative position, the parts then bearing the relation to each
other represented in Figure 12, and the cutter immediately moves downward to
cut a button-hole slit in the material held by the clamps, and upward to the
original position and the anvil and under section of the stitching mechanism are

page_text: then moved back again to their original position shown in Figure 4, in which
they are held during the stitching. The stitching then immediately begins from
the rear end of the button-hole. The tilting movements are given the rotary
support and anvil by means of an arm g¹ preferably integral with the anvil
support and which extends back and has in its end a cam slot g² and an arm g
extending downward from the cutter lever C³, which has a cam pin g³ on its
lower end which enters the cam slot, (see Figures 1, 4 and 12) so that the crank
disc C, during its rotation, not only operates the cutter lever, but also serves to
move the lower part of the stitching mechanism-out of position and the anvil into
position preparatory to cutting, and return the said parts to their original position
at the completion of the cutting operation. The cam pin and slot lock the parts
in each of the two positions. The said cam slot g² is made long enough to provide
rests into which the cam pin may run to provide a rest for the anvil during the
cutting and to meet the requirements caused by the adjustment of the cutter
lever. The rotary support is turned forward and backward by means of a
pinion which preferably is integral with the rotary support and which is
engaged by the rack e40 Figures 1 and 5 at the lower end of the lower S-shaped
rack bar e, the said rack bar at its rear end being attached to the arm f10 of
the yoke slide f above described, the upper and lower S-shaped rack bars being
thereby moved in unison in turning the upper and lower sections of the stitch
forming devices in stitching round the eye and in returning them.
The connections between the lower rack and the pinion and between the outer
end of the lever e and the lower end of the reciprocating bar e are so formed
as to permit the tilting of the pinion and needle bar in relation to said rack and
the end of said lever respectively, the teeth of the rack being cut away at the
corners to provide play (see Figure 20) and the end of the lever being connected
with the end of the bar e8 by means of a forked connection, having curved upper
and lower faces (see Figure 19). The travelling frame, stitching devices, cutter
and anvil are moved backward and forward in relation to the cloth clamps and
upon and in the bed by means of the cam groove B4 in the cam wheel B₁ Figure 4
on a stud h, which is fast to the lugs extending downward from the under
bracket of the travelling frame. A stationary cam pin H affixed to the stationary
lug h² enters the cam groove. Upon the turning of the cam wheel the travelling
frame is fed intermittently backward and forward and the cam wheel moves with
it. The wheel is intermittently turned to provide the frame with a step-by-step
feed by means of the gear teeth h³ formed in its outer edge and a pinion h* on a
shaft, and this shaft 5 is intermittently turned by means of a clutch com-
prising a disc 76 fastened to its end and having a chamber upon its inner side
which forms a short rim or ring h', with which the dogs h8, h³ Figure 5 engage
as they are turned in one direction. These dogs are shaped as represented in
Figure 30 and each is connected with the oscillating hub 10 as represented; that
is, each has the inner end h which bears against a shoulder h¹ in the hub and
a spring 13 attached to the hub bears against each dog. Each dog has a cross
recess h¹ at its outer end through which the rim of the disc extends. As the hub
is turned in one direction, the dogs ride freely on this rim, but as the dogs are
turned in the reverse direction their angle in relation to the rim is so changed
that they clutch the rim and carry the disc with it. The hub is given an oscil-
lating movement by means of the cam 15 Figure 2 on the edge of the disc e* on
the main shaft A and a lever 16 pivoted at 17 to the end of the long stud which
carries at its opposite end the intermediate gear 6. This lever is connected at
its lower end by a link h¹8 with an arm or lever 19 extending from the hub.
The cam serves to move the lever and consequently the hub in
a spring 20 connecting
with the end of the arm
a part of the travelling frame
or lever 19 serves to move it in the reverse
direction and to maintain the upper end of the lever in contact with the cam 15
or the lever in contact with an adjustable stop 2 Figure 5. This stop varies
direction and
one

page_text: '
the throw of the lever and consequently the extent of the rotation of the feed
wheel B each reciprocation. of the needle and the degree of movement of the
frame. It is desirable to change the feed of the travelling frame according as
the spacing of the stitches of the button-hole require, and if the stop his
adjusted so as to decrease the throw of the lever the stitches of the feed of the
travelling frame are shorter and the spacing of the stitches less; if it is moved
in the opposite direction the feed is coarser and the stitches are separated by
spaces of greater width. It is therefore apparent that the end of the lever does
not constantly bear on the cam h15, the cam coming in contact with the end of
the lever only for the purpose of giving it the required movement. At all other
times it is separated from the cam and held by the stop. The stop is represented
in the form of an angle plate and is adjusted upon the travelling frame by means
of slots and set screws (see Figure 5) but I do not confine myself to this particular.
means for adjusting the throw of the lever. The feed wheel B is enclosed by a
sheet metal band which acts to cover the teeth and thereby prevent dirt from
reaching them and also as a frictional device in retarding the rotation of the
wheel, so that the momentum of the feeding movement will not throw the wheel
farther than is desired. The stress with which it bears upon the wheel may be
varied by means of the adjusting screw which connects its two ends (see Figure 4).
It is attached by an angle piece to the travelling frame. The clamp plate D is
supported upon the bed plate of the machine and its forward end is made thin.
and carries the clamps D¹ which are of the usual character, there being two of
them each comprising a lower plate and an upper jaw d³, the upper jaws
being at the ends of the spring arms d² and moved towards the lower plates and
the jaws being separable to: stretch the material, the. movement of one jaw and
plate causing the other jaw and plate to be moved in a reverse direction. The
clamps and clamp plate do not travel back and forth. They have a lateral move-
ment, however, in relation to the throat. This is obtained by pivoting the clamp
plate at de to the bed plate of the machine and by mounting at the rear end of
said plate a cam roll & Figures 21, 22, 24, 24 which bears against the face of
the cam d8 on the feed wheel B'. This cam is so shaped as to impart to the
forward end of the clamp plate and clamps a very slight and gradual lateral
movement at the beginning of the stitching of the button-hole (see the diagram
represented in Figure 25). The object of this lateral movement is to cause the
line of stitches to be diverted from a central position at or beyond the rear end of
the button-hole slit to a position at one side of the button-hole slit at the extreme
rear end. The clamp plate and clamps then remain stationary during the back-
ward movement of the frame and stitching devices in the stitching of one side of
the button-hole, and until the enlarged end of the button-hole is reached, when
the cam again moves the clamps laterally first in the same direction in which
it first moved them (see Fig. 34) and then in a reverse direction, until it has
moved the clamps a distance just as great upon the other side of the button-hole
slit, (see Figure 35) when the clamps are again moved slightly in a reverse direc-
tion and held during the stitching of the other side of the eye to or very nearly
to the end of the button-hole slit, when they are again moved in the same direc-
tion to cause stitches to be sewed across the line of stitches first formed at the
beginning of the stitching of the button-hole (see Figure 35*) and the stitching
is stopped with the clamps in the position, leaving the last stitch or two upon the
same line that the first stitch or two were taken, and this provides a finished
end er bar to the rear end of the button-hole slit, the two lines of stitching
extending into each other and interlocking at said rear end. The cam being
a face cam, a spring is employed to hold the cam roll in contact therewith,
(see Figures 4, 21 and 22.) The cam also causes one other movement of the clamp
plates.
It will be seen that if the needles are rotated in the position in which they
are at the completion of the last stitch of the stitched button-hole, as represented by

page_text: the diagram, Figure 35*, the upper needle will be carried a portion of the length
of a stitch beyond the position which it should occupy for the beginning of the
stitching of the next button-hole in order, and the said cam d8 is therefore formed
to move the clamp plate laterally sufficiently to cause the clamps to be brought
into the proper relation with the stitching mechanism.
This additional movement of the clamp plate takes place after the completion
of one button-hole and before the stitching of the next, and while the button-
hole stitching devices are being returned to their normal position and it is
accomplished by means of a dog N Figures 1 and 2 on the side of the lower
S-shaped rack bar which, as the rack bar is moved backward rides against the
end 11. of a rock lever pivoted at 2, and the upper arm R³ of
which engages by its end the clamp plate at n* and moves it laterally
sufficiently to move the cam roll from the face of the cam when
a movable section 10 of the cam is released, and by a spring moved back
of the cam roll and serves to maintain the cam roll and the clamps in their new
position. This spring acting section of the cam is provided by the piece n³
Figures 11, 24, 24 which slides in a circular groove n contained in the said cam
groove. It has at one end a shoulder 16 which is brought into contact with the
roll as the same approaches the end of its revolution and the roll serves to hold this
sliding section while the cam continues to revolve, but upon the movement of
the cam roll from the cam, as above specified, this sliding section is released and by
its spring 7, moved back of the cam roll, and when the machine is again started,
the cam starts on this movable cam section and from its new position, the said
sliding section acting as a part of the cam. The stitching mechanism is turned
backward to its original position after the completion of the stitching of the
button-hole and after the belt has been shifted from the pulley a¹ to the pulley a
and the gear wheel C started.
As I have above explained, the gear wheel is stopped so that it is caused to turn
from one-half to three-quarters of a revolution before the cam j, which it carries
on its back face, begins to operate the back turning mechanism. This cam is
connected with the yoke by means of a cam pin or projection j¹ Figure 9 from the
side of yoke f5 at its rear end and as the cam bears upon it it moves the yoke and
the S-shaped rack bars forward by a continuous movement turning the stitching
devices backward quickly and continuously to their original position.
It will be understood that the yoke and S-shaped rack bars are intermittently
moved while the stitching is progressing, the feeding cam wheel having a step-by-
step rotation while the returning cam has a continuous rotation. I have represented
the clamps as automatically spread after the operating of the cutter and before the
beginning of the stitching of the button-hole by means of a lever attached to the
stationary bed and having a projection at its inner end which is adapted to bear
against inclines formed on the clamp arms (see Figure 6) and this lever is
moved by a rock lever Figure 1 pivoted at k and having a short arm 5 which
engages the outer end of said lever and a long arm which is adapted to be moved
by the pitman operating the cutting lever and during its down stroke after it has
actuated the cutter.
The clamps are automatically unclamped at the end of the stitching movement by
means of a lever m Figs. 1, 2 and 4 pivoted to the head 6 at m¹ and against one
arm of which the starting lever is moved in starting the machine and held by the
cam which bears upon the clamp plate. This moves the other arm m² of the lever
forward and as the stitching mechanism is turned, this arm is engaged by a
spring m carried upon the upper S-shaped rack bar, and this engagement is
maintained until after the stitching, when upon the reverse movement of the rack
bar in turning backward the stitching devices, the said lever m is drawn backward
forcing the starting lever forward and turning the cam which bears upon the
clamp arms sufficient to release them and permit them to move upward.
The momentum of the stitching mechanism is immediately checked after the
transfer of the belt from the pulley a¹ to the pulley largely by means of the
a

page_text: lever o Figures 2 and 4 which bears against the edge 0 of the cam disc e¹ and
which is held against the same with considerable force by a spring. This lever
operates a thread tension.
It will be seen that the racks for turning the stitching mechanism are recipro-
cated at the desired intervals in both directions by cams, the first of which acts
intermittently and the second continuously, and that the racks when not acted
upon by the cams, retain a stationary position because of friction. It will be noticed
that the stitch forming devices and their supporting frame travel backward and
forward upon the bed only the length of the button-hole to be stitched, and
that the frame is stationary during the action of the button-hole cutting devices.
This organization of the machine enables it to be constructed on simpler lines
and with fewer and lighter parts and more cheaply than machines of similar
character of which I have knowledge.
Haying now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to be by my
foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. In a button-hole stitching machine the combination of the bed plate of the
machine, a work clamping mechanism held fixed upon the bed plate during the
stitching of each straight side of the button-hole and laterally moved upon the bed
plate during the stitching of the eye, a frame mounted upon said bed plate movable
intermittently forward and back thereon, the length of the button-hole to be
stitched, and stitch forming devices carried by said frame held stationary in the
frame during the stitching of the sides but in a position on one side reversed from
that of the other and rotated step by step substantially a half rotation during the
said traversing movements of said work clamping mechanism.
2. In a button-hole stitching machine, the combination of the bed plate of
the machine, a work holding and slit spreading clamp, a button-hole cutter held
in operative relation to the clamp at the beginning of the operation of the machine,
the throat of the machine, its support, the under complemental stitch forming
devices, the cutter anvil and means for moving the throat, its support and said
under complemental stitch forming devices out of position and the cutter anvil
into position, and for reversing said movements, whereby the cutter anvil is moved
into operative relation with the cutter during the cutting of the button-hole slit
and is then returned to its original or inoperative position, and the throat, its
support and said complemental stitch-forming devices returned to their operative
position, as and for the purposes set forth.
3. In a button-hole stitching machine, the combination of the bed plate of the
machine, a work holding and slit spreading clamp and means for moving it
laterally at the beginning and ending of the stitching of the rear end of the
button-hole in a manner to cause the stitches to cross each other at the rear end
of the button-hole, devices for also providing the said clamp with lateral
movements during the stitching of the eye of the button-hole, and means for
holding the clamp stationary upon the bed at all other times, with a stitching
frame mounted upon the bed plate, stitch forming devices carried by said frame
and means for moving said stitching frame with an intermittent or step-by-step
feeding movement backward and forward lengthwise the frame and button-hole
and means for operating the stitch forming devices and turning them a half
rotation during the traversing or lateral movements of said clamp in the stitching
of the eye of the button-hole, and devices for returning the stitch forming devices
to the original position after. the completion of the stitching of the button-hole
and the stopping of their stitching action.
4. In a button-hole stitching machine the combination of the bed plate of the
machine, a work holding and slit spreading clamp, means for providing it with
lateral movements during the stitching of the straight sides of the button-hole,
with a frame, stitch forming devices mounted upon said frame, a button-hole

page_text: cutter, an anvil for the same, means for actuating the button-hole- cutter. and
moving the anvil into and out of operative position and means actuated after the
operation of the button-hole cutter to move the frame and stitch, forming.devices
backward and. forwarl upon..the bed with a step-by-step feeding movement, and
devices for actuating the stitch forming mechanism and for turning the same
in one direction during the traversing movements of said clamp and in the
reverse direction at the end of the stitching operation.
..
5. In a button-hole stitching machine the combination of the bed plate of the
machine, a work holding and slit spreading clamp, a stitcher frame, stitch forming
devices mounted upon the frame, a button-hole cutting jaw above. the bed plate
of the machine and a cutter anvil below the bed plate of the machine movable
independently of the stitcher frame. into and out of operative relation with the
cutter, and devices for actuating the cutter anvil, the stitcher frame and stitching
devices, as and for the purposes set forth.
6. In a button-hole stitching machine, the combination of the bed plate of the
machine, a work holding and slit spreading clamp, means for laterally moving it in
respect to the bed plate at the beginning and at the ending of the action of the
stitching devices and for also laterally moving it during the stitching of the eye
of the button-hole and for holding the work stationary at all other times, a stitcher
frame, means for moving it lengthwise the bed plate, stitching devices carried
thereby, button-hole cutting devices, means for interchanging the position of a
portion of the stitch forming devices and the cutter anvil, and devices for starting
and stopping the operation of the button-hole cutting devices and for starting
and stopping the operation of the frame feeding mechanism and stitching devices,
as.and for the purposes set forth.
7. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of an automatic button-
hole cutting mechanism comprising a cutter, an anvil and means for temporarily
substituting the anvil during the cutting operation for a portion of the stitch
forming devices, a work clamp for holding the work during the operation of the
button-hole cutter, and means for moving said clamp laterally at the beginning
and at the ending of the action of the forming devices and also laterally during the
stitching of the eye, a frame, stitch forming devices mounted thereon, means for
moving the frame backward and forward with a step-by-step movement, means for
actuating the stitching devices and a connection between the button-hole cutting
devices and the frame feeding and stitch actuating mechanism to automatically
start the operation thereof at the completion of the operation of the button-hole
cutting devices, means for automatically stopping the frame feeding and stitch
forming mechanism, and devices for automatically returning the button-hole
stitching mechanism and the clamp plate laterally to their original or starting
postion automatically actuated upon the stopping of said frame feeding and stitcher
actuating mechanism.
8. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of the bed of the machine,
a work holding and slit spreading clamp mounted upon the bed of the machine,
a button-hole cutting mechanism, the anvil of which is movable into and out of
operative position, stitch forming mechanism and frame, means for actuating the
button-hole cutting mechanism, stitch forming mechanism and frame, means for
automatically spreading the clamp plate, for moving it laterally during the stitch-
ing of the eye and for holding it stationary during the stitching of the eye and
for holding it stationary during the stitching of the straight sides of the button
hole, a starting lever connected with the work clamps and with the button-hole
cutting mechanism to upon its starting movement close the clamps and start said
mechanism, automatic devices connecting the button-hole cutting mechanism with
the stitching mechanism adapted to be automatically started by the button-hole
cutting mechanism and to automatically start the button-hole stitching mechanism
devices for automatically stopping the action of the stitching mechanism at the
completion of the stitching of the button-hole and independent means for turning
backward the stitch-forming devices, restoring the clamp plate to its original

page_text: position and automatically releasing the clamps at the stopping of the stitch-
forming mechanism.
9. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of the movable frame and
stitching devices carried thereby, the cutter lever c³ pivoted to the frame and
operated as specified, the anvil G, the movable anvil support pivoted to said moving
frame its arm gl having a cam slot g² of the shape specified, and an arm g depend-
ing from the cutter lever and connected with the said slot g2 by a cam pin
or roll.
10. The combination of the throat E, its pivot support and under complemental
stitch forming devices carried by said pivoted support the upper stitch-forming
devices and button-hole cutter with the anvil G, its support g and means for
simultaneously moving the two supports in one direction to move the throat and
under complemental stitch forming devices and their support out of position, and
the anvil arm and anvil into position and for holding them for an instant in such
position, and to then move the said supports in a reverse direction and to hold
them in said last named position during the operation of the stitch forming
devices.
11. The combination of the bracket or arm B3, the sleeve or holder E5 pivoted
to said support, the arm g carried by said sleeve or holder, on the upper end of
which the anvil G is mounted and the rotary support E2 also carried by said sleeve
or holder and supporting the throat and under complemental stitch forming devices,
the upper stitch forming devices and the button-hole cutter, as and for the purposes
described.
12. In a button-hole sewing machine the combination of the bed of the machine,
a frame B intermittently moved thereon forward and back, an under bracket or
support B attached to said frame B to be movable therewith, forward rests and
guides in the legs or supports of the bed 132 for guiding and supporting the
forward end of said bracket, a saddle E5 pivoted to the forward end of said
bracket B under rotary complemental stitch-forming devices mounted on said
pivoted saddle, an anvil arm also mounted upon said saddle having an anvil at
its upper end, means for tilting said saddle and for rotating said complemental
stitch-forming devices, the upper stitch forming devices and the button-hole
cutter.
13. In a button-hole cutting and stitching mechanism the combination of the
bed plate of the machine, a movable stitcher frame mounted thereon having an
underneath bracket or support B which extends forward below the work clamp
and throat of the machine and has one or more bearing sections at or near its front
end, with the machine frame having a stationary rest below said work clamps and
throat to receive and support said forward bearing section of said bracket, an anvil
arm mounted upon said bracket or support 133 to be movable therewith, and the
anvil G carried by said arm, the stationary rest acting to support the forward end
of said bracket, anvil arm and anvil during the operation of the button-hole
cutter and thereby relieve said parts from strain.
14. The combination of the wheel C having a hub c, the disc C', mechanism for
automatically engaging said disc with said wheel and for automatically disengaging
said disc from said wheel at the end of one full revolution thereof, the button-hole
cutter, its anvil, throat and under complemental stitch forming devices connected
with said disc and operated during its revolution to move the anvil into and out of
position, the throat and under section of the stitching devices out of and into
position and to hold the anvil stationary for an instant during the cutting operation
and to reciprocate the button-hole cutter and the upper stitch forming devices, as
and for the purposes described.
15. The combination of the wheel C the disc C₁ actuating the button-hole
cutting devices and mechanism between the said wheel and disc comprising a
pawl pivoted to the inner face of the disc C and extending into a cavity in the
outer face of the wheel C, and the end of which is adapted to be moved upon an
arc in said cavity towards and from the outer edge thereof, a pawl c¹ attached to

page_text: the pawl and adapted to extend outward from the cavity between the wheel and
the disc, a spring for moving the end of the pawl cat outwardly attached to the
disc C. the wheel C having the cavity 22 and the shoulders or teeth 23 with which
the end of the pawl 21 is adapted to engage, and the lever e pivoted at 18 having
an end which is adapted to be moved into and out of engagement with the end of
the pawl and a starting lever preferably the lever for depressing and clamping
the plates connected with said lever e¹8 to move the same to disengage the end
of the lever c from the pawl c¹³.
16. The combination of the wheel C, the disc C connected with the button-hole
cutting mechanism, the clutch between said wheel and disc, the clutch actuating
and stop lever c, the handle C and trip 2 between it and the lever c, whereby
upon the movement of the handle the lever is disengaged from the clutch, and
whereby also without restoring the handle to its original position the lever is left
free to immediately resume its original or clutch disengaging position.
17. The combination in a button-hole cutting and stitching machine of the
main shaft A, the loose pulley thereon, the pinion a connected therewith and
the gear wheel C connected with said pinion, the pulley a fast to the main shaft A, the
disc C operating the button-hole cutting mechanism, a clutch connecting the
gear C with the disc C adapted to permit a single rotation of the disc C¹ and a
belt shifter moved by the section all of the disc to shift the belt from the pulley a¹
to the pulley a, whereby the main shaft A is started and through it the mechanism
for feeding frame B and for actuating the stitching devices.
18. The combination of the main shaft A, the pulley a fixed thereto, the loose
pulley a loose thereon and operating a wheel C, a disc C and mechanism connect-
ing it with the button-hole cutting mechanism, a clutch connecting the wheel C
with the disc C¹ and a belt shifter adapted to transfer the belt from the pulley a¹
to the pulley a upon the completion of the operation of the button-hole cutting
mechanism and to hold it upon the pulley a during the operation of the stitch-
forming devices, and to then transfer it to the pulley a¹, whereby after the machine
comes to rest, it turns constantly the said pulley and the wheel C until the clutch
connecting it with the disc C¹ is set in operation.
19. The combination of the bed of the machine, the plate D pivoted to the bed.
material holding and slit spreading clamps carried at the forward end of said
plate, a rotary face cam and a cam roll upon the rear end of said pivoted plate
yieldingly held in contact with said cam which is constructed to move the clamp
plate laterally during the stitching of the eye of the button-hole and to hold it
stationary during the stitching of each straight side of the button-hole.
20. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of the bed plate D
pivoted to the bed of the machine, the material holding and split spreading clamps
carried at the front end of said plate, the movable stitching frame and devices upon
it adapted to engage said pivot plate and move the same laterally while they are
travelling bodily with the movable frame.
21. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of the bed of the
machine, material holding and slit spreading clamps pivoted to said bed and
provided with lateral movements during the stitching of the eye of the button-
hole and held stationary during the stitching of the sides of the button-hole,
whereby the work is held stationary excepting so far as it is given slight lateral
movements during the stitching of the eye, a stitcher frame movable step by step
upon the bed of the machine in a straight line backward and forward, an inter-
mittently revolving wheel mounted upon a horizontal axis or shaft attached to said
frame whereby said wheel is movable with it. a can upon the face
of said wheel connected with the clamps to move the same
and a cam groove in the face of said wheel connected with the bed
of the machine by a roll or pin fixed to said bed whereby the frame is moved
backward and forward, as and for the purposes described.
laterally
22. The combination of the lower bar es, the bent lever e¹ pivoted at e15, a cam

page_text: groove el in the back side of the rotary disc e7 of the main shaft connected with
the upper end of the bent lever et by the lever e¹8 pivoted at e¹, the upper end of
which carries a cam pin which enters said cam groove elo and the lower end of which
is connected with said bent lever et by a link e20.
23. The combination of the needle bar having the pinion F, the lower bar having
the pinion, the upper rack bar F carried by the arm b, the forward end of which
engages the pinion F, the lower rack bar e, the forward end of which engages
the pinion e, the sliding yoke f having the arms f, f to which said bars are
attached, the rotary cam F and a cam roll f carried by the yoke and held in
engagement with the edge of the cam by friction, the said cam being constructed to
permit the rapid backward movement of the yoke and racks at the completion of
the stitching operation.
24. The combination of the bed of the machine, the frame mounted thereon to
be movable as specified, the cam disc B₁ mounted upon the frame to
travel therewith and connected with the bed and having two cams,
one of which is connected with the bed and the other with the
clamps, the said cam having the gear h³ upon its outer edge, a pinion 4 to
engage said gear teeth and means for intermittently rotating the said pinion, com-
prising the shaft upon which it is mounted, a clutch upon said shaft which is
reciprocated by means of the lever h¹6 pivoted at h¹, the cam h¹ and the spring 20
all as and for the purposes described.
25. The combination in a machine of the character specified of the pulley a¹,"
the pulley a, the belt shifter a², a spring a¹0 for moving it in one direction, a cam all
for moving it in the reverse direction and means for holding the belt shifter and
releasing it at the intervals stated, comprising the wheel B₁ having in its face a
hole as an automatically closing cover plate carried by said wheel and adapted to
cover said hole, and an arm extending from the belt shifter, the end a of which is
adapted upon the rotation of the wheel B to act as a stop in holding the cover plate
while the hole is being uncovered, and which hole then permits the lateral move-
ment of the belt shifter, and which cover plate upon the movement of the belt
shifter in a reverse direction is adapted to be moved past the end of said belt shifter
arm to close the hole and prevent the return of the belt shifter.
26. The combination of the disc C operating the cutting mechanism and con-
nected with the wheel C as specified and having the cam a for operating the belt
shifter with the belt shifter having a hook section to shut behind the part a
of the disc C, and the said wheel and the cutting mechanism, as and for the
purposes described.
27. The combination of the belt shifter, the pulleys a, a, the wheel. C and a
latch attached to the belt shifter and adapted to be brought into contact with a
spring on the inner face of the wheel C as the belt is being shifted from the pulley a
to the pulley a and to lock said wheel from rotating between the end of said spring
and a stop thereon.
28. In a button-hole stitching machine the combination of a cam caused to be
actuated after the operation of the stitching device has ceased, the stitching
mechanism and, means for turning it, the clamp plate, an intermediate connection
between them and the cam whereby the said cam causes the stitch forming devices
to be turned backward and the clamp plate to be transferred after the completion
of the stitching operation.
a to the
29. The combination of the wheel C, a cam thereon connected with the
mechanism for rotating the stitch forming devices to operate the same after the
completion of the stitching operation, and a stop upon said wheel for holding
the same stationary until the belt shifter has been shifted from the pulley
pulley a¹ and in such relation to the said stitching mechanism returning cam as to
cause said wheel C to make a portion of a revolution before the cam is brought into
operation, whereby the cam is prevented from turning the stitching devices until
after the needles have been removed out of the work."
-
30. The combination in a button-hole cutting and stitching machine, of the main

page_text: shaft A, the stitch forming devices operated thereby, the fast pulley a and the
loose pulley a¹ thereon, the wheel C connected with the loose pulley to be operated
thereby, the disc connected with the wheel C by a clutch and the button-
hole cutting devices, a belt shifter for moving the belt from the pulley a¹ to the
pulley a at the end of the operation of the cutting devices, and for moving the
belt from the pulley a to the pulley a at the end of the operation of the stitching
devices, means substantially as described for moving the said belt shifter, a stop.
for stopping the rotation of the disc C¹ after it has been unclutched, a stop for stopping.
the rotation of the wheel C upon the transfer of the belt from the pulley a,
means for releasing said last named stop and for transferring the belt from the
pulley a to the pulley at the completion of the operation of the button-hole
stitching devices and whereby the said devices are stopped and a cam upon the
said wheel C brought into operation after the stopping of the button-hole stitching
devices and connected with them, whereby the stitching devices are adapted to be
turned backward to their normal position, as and for the purposes described.
31. The combination of the frame B, the wheel B having the frame propelling
cam 134 and a metal band enclosing the said feed wheel and adapted to bear
thereon whereby it acts as a cover to the teeth and also as a retarding device for
checking the momentum of the frame at the instant the belt is shifted from its
actuating pulley.
32. In a button-hole stitching machine the combination of the. bed plate, the
clamp plates, a cam for moving the clamp plates laterally after the completion
of the stitching operation from the position in which they were at the end of the
stitching operation to the position which they should occupy at the beginning
of the stitching of the next button-hole in order, the stitching devices and means
for simultaneously turning them backward a half revolution at the same time
that the clamps are transferred, as and for the purposes set forth.
33. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of the clamp plate, a
cam roll at the rear end of the clamp plate, a cam having a movable section held
by the said cam roll until the clamp plate is moved laterally to move the cam. roll
from engagement with the cam, and means for then moving said movable section
of the cam whereby it is returned under the cam roll and devices for so moving
the clamp plate and cam roll while the stitching devices are inoperative.
34. The combination of the plate D supporting the material holding and slit
spreading clamps connected with its actuating cam as described, the said cam
having the movable cam section, a spring for holding the end of said plate in
contact with the cam, devices for moving the end of the plate from the cam to
permit the interposition of the movable section of the cam between it and the end
of said plates, as and for the purposes described.
35. The combination of the plate 1 pivoted as described and supporting the
material holding and slit spreading clamps and a rock lever a pivoted at n² having
an arm n³, the upper end of which engages the plate D at nt and a dog N on the
side of the lower rack bar and which dog engages said rock lever as the said rack
bar approaches the end of its forward movement after the operation of the stitch
forming devices.
36. In a button-hole stitching machine the combination of the bed plate of the
machine, a work clamp mounted thereon, means for transferring it laterally in
one direction at the beginning of the stitching of the rear end of the button-hole
end and in a reverse direction at the end of the stitching of the rear end of the
button-hole, button-hole stitching mechanism movable lengthwise the button-
hole, means for holding it stationary or for slightly moving it at the beginning
and at the end of the stitching of the rear end of the button-hole during the
transferring movement of the work clamp whereby the stitching of the button-
hole is begun by stitches of the same length as those used in stitching the sides
and eye placed closely together in the material at the rear end of the button-hole
and in line therewith, and whereby the stitching of the 'button-hole is ended by
the sewing on top of the stitches first named of additional stitches of the same

page_text: length as the sides and eye and a compact double stitched bar thus formed at the
rear end of the button-hole.
!
37. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of an upper recipro-
cating straight eye-pointed needle and means for reciprocating 'it upon a vertical
plane, a lower reciprocating straight eye-pointed needle and means for recipro-
cating it upon a straight line from below the work plate at an angle to the plane
of movement of the upper needle and across the same, a looper below the work
plate and means for providing it with movements past the upper needle to take
the loop therefrom as the upper needle is lifting from its lowest position and
carry the loop back of the under needle as the latter needle is falling, and to
then hold it over the needle until the under needle has taken it and to then return
it by the same path to its original position, all as and for the purposes set forth.
38. The combination of the support E2, the lever e, the bar es connected with
the lever e, means for reciprocating the said bar es, the inclined slide-way e, the
slide therein, the needle E' attached thereto and a connection between the free
end of the lever and the slide.
39. The combination of the support E2, the looper holder pivoted to said
support as described and movable laterally in relation thereto, the looper E
carried by said looper holder and the lever having the cam slot eat and lever €28
having the cam e27, both connected with said looper holder, one adapted to recipro-
cate the same and the other to provide it with lateral movement, and the
reciprocating bar e connected with the said cam slot.et.
40. The combination of the looper holder and the looper carried thereby, the
laterally sliding support or pin to one end of which the looper holder is attached,
the lever e connected at its free end with said pin, the cam e27 thereon, a recip-
rocating pin or bearing piece actuated as specified to engage said cam, and the
spring to return the looper holder and hold the lever with the cam in operative
relation to the end of said pin.
41. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of a clamp plate having
a lateral movement at the beginning and at the end of the stitching of the rear
end of the button-holé, means for holding it fixed during the stitching of the
straight sides of the button-hole, means for moving the clamp plate laterally in
both directions during the stitching of the eye and additional means for moving
the clamp plate transversely in a direction the reverse of that in which it is moved
at the end of the stitching of the last side of the button-hole, which movement is
made after the stitching of the button-hole is finished to restore the clamp plate
to its original position in relation to the stitching mechanism and while the latter
is being rotated back to its original position the stitching mechanism and means
for imparting to it a step-by-step feeding movement and for rotating it in one
direction during the stitching of the eye and in a reverse direction at the com-
pletion of the stitching of the button-hole.
'
42. The combination of the reciprocating bar es, a cross pin e12 mounted thereon
to reciprocate therewith and having an end which comes into contact with the
cam upon the side of a pivoted lever, with said lever e28, the said cam e27 thereon,
the looper holder 25 upon which the looper is mounted, said pin being connected
with the upper end of said lever 2 to be moved in one direction thereby, a
spring to move it in the reverse direction and the looper E³ carried by said
looper holder.
43. The combination in a button-hole cutting and stitching machine of the bed
plate of the machine, the stitcher frame and means for moving it step-by-step
backward and forward upon said bed plate, the stitching mechanism carried
thereby, the lever 3 mounted upon the forward end of said frame, a crank and
means for providing it with a single continuous revolution, a pitman connecting
the crank with said lever c³, an anvil beneath the bed plate moved into and out
of operative position with the cutter C² during the downward and upward move-
ments of the cutter and held stationary upon the stitcher frame out of operative

page_text: relation with the cutter during the movement of the stitcher frame, as and for
the purposes set forth.
44. The combination in a button-hole cutting and stitching machine of the bed
plate of the machine, the stitcher frame mounted thereon, the stitching mechanism
carried thereby, means for moving the frame and actuating the stitching
mechanism, the cutter lever and cutter mounted thereon, a crank pin and means.
for providing it with one continuous revolution, a longitudinal adjustable pitman
connecting the crank pin with the cutter lever, and an anvil, as and for the
purposes set forth.
45. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of a longitudinally
movable frame mounted upon the bed of the machine, button-hole stitching
devices mounted thereon, button-hole cutting mechanism also mounted upon said.
frame to be movable longitudinally therewith, one section of which cutting
mechanism is above the bed plate of the machine and the other section of which
is below said bed plate, and means for moving said upper section towards and
from the lower section and for moving the lower section horizontally into and
out of operative relation with the upper section, as and for the purposes set forth.
46. The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of the button-hole
stitching devices comprising a bed plate, a work clamp laterally movable during
the stitching of the eye, a stitcher frame movable lengthwise the work clamp and
bed plate, stitching devices carried by said stitching frame and rotated during
the stitching of the eye in one direction and at the completion of the stitching
operation in a reverse direction, a button-hole cutter above the work plate, a
cooperating anvil below the work plate and means for moving the lower comple-
mental stitch forming devices and the anvil laterally to move the said lower
stitch forming devices out of their operative relation with the upper stitch forming
devices and the anvil into operative relation with the cutter and to restore them
to their original positions, and devices for actuating the cutter.
47. In a button-hole cutting and stitching machine the combination of a later-
ally movable clamp with a button-hole cutting mechanism, the anvil and cutter
of which are set to operate slightly out of line to a median line passing through
the centre of the fulcrum of the clamp plate and the centre of the upper needle.
48. In a button-hole stitching and cutting machine a button-hole cutting
mechanism the anvil and cutter of which are set slightly out of line to a median
line passing through the centre of the fulcrum of the clamp plate and the centre
of the upper needle.
Datod this 10th ...
1
1000
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.