IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CUTTING OF GARMENTS AND IN APPARATUS USED THEREFOR
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Theodored Holland, of Montreal, in the
Dominion of Canada, but at present of 89, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
CUTTING OF GARMENTS AND IN APPARATUS USED THEREFOR."-A com-
munication from abroad by Jones Amasa Johnston, of Montreal,
Canada, Merchant Tailor.
Sealed the 9th September 1873, and dated the 28th May 1873.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Theodored
Holland at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 28th May 1873.
I, ALFRED THEODORED HOLLAND, of Montreal, in the Dominion of
Canada, but at present of 89, Chancery Lane, in the County of
Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CUTTING OF GARMENTS, AND IN APparatus USED
THEREFOR (a communication to me from abroad by Jones Amasa
Johnston, of Montreal, Canada, Merchant Tailor), to be as follows:-
"
---
This Invention has reference to improvements on the art of measure-

page_text: of the back, which is done by passing the long arm of the square
under the arm, passing the short arm close up to it, and taking the
requisite measure with the strap. This may, however, also be done
without the use of the said square D, by measuring from both sides
across the back and by halving it finding the centre.
requisite measure with the strap. This may, however, also be done
without the use of the said square D, by measuring from both sides
across the back and by halving it finding the centre.
Fig. 5 shews more particularly the method of taking the measure-
ments.
The flexible square, as will be seen by Figs. 4 and 5, is pressed in
front closely up against the arm, and passes under it; the strap C
(Figs. 3 and 4) passing diagonally over the opposite shoulder, and being
buttoned on the breast to the pin N, thus keeping the square firmly in
place while the measurements are being taken.
The part of the square passing under the arm gives the horizontal line
marked F, F, (Fig. 5) and the other half the vertical line marked G, G;
from these lines are taken the measurements required. The metal
straight edge B, forming part of the vertical line G, G, passes down in
front of the hip, and from this line may be taken all measurements for
the breast and waist and over the hip, both in front and back of the
instrument, thus giving the respective exact distances.
To shew the difference between this new method and the old one
generally used by tailors, I may mention that the ordinary way of
measuring would simply be to girt the waist, and it is obvious that by
such a method it is impossible to get the proper relative proportions.
The horizontal line F, F, (or the position of the under side of the
arm) once determined by the flexible square, gives a datum line for all
measures of height required in cutting out the back. For instance, to
ascertain the exact shape of the shoulder, the distance is first taken
from any given point H (Fig. 3) on the neck, parallel with the centre of
the back to the line F, F, at the point I, from the point I to the pin d,
and from the pin d to the point H, all of these being short, straight
To shew the value of these it will be sufficient to say that in
any two men the distance from H to I might be exactly the same, and
yet the other two distances from H and I respectively to d differ very
materially, one man being perhaps round and the other high shouldered,
measures.

page_text: and these varying proportions can only be obtained accurately with
relation to those of the chest by means of this flexible square.
The dotted line down the centre of the back on Fig. 3 does not shew
any line of measurement, but merely indicates the centre line.
When a person is so shaped that it is necessary to measure both sides
separately, the straight edge B is, after the one side has been measured,
withdrawn from the socket e¹, and transferred to the socket e in order
to take the measurements of the other side, or vice versa, as the case
may be.
Although more particularly adapted for coats, this mode and means
may be applied whenever found suitable for cutting out other garments,
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Alfred Theodored Holland in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 25th November 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
THEODORED HOLLAND, of Montreal, in the Dominion of Canada, but at
present of 89, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of May, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the thirty-sixth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Alfred Theodored Holland, Her special licence
that I, the said Alfred Theodored Holland, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Alfred Theodored Holland,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CUTTING OF GARMENTS, AND IN APPARATUS USED
THEREFOR," (a communication to me from abroad by Jones Amasa

page_text: Johnston, of Montreal, Canada, Merchant Tailor) upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Alfred Theodored Holland, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
samo was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and im-
mediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Theodored Holland, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, that is to
say :-
This Invention has reference to improvements on the art of measure-
ment to obviate the defects of those methods at present generally
adopted by tailors, in which the measurements taken are usually long
curving, and what may be termed girting. These seldom give the exact
size, and cannot in any way shew the shape of the part of the body to
be fitted. In contradistinction to these I take for each and every part
of the garment to be cut out short straight measures, and have devised
for this purpose an apparatus, which I call a "flexible square," by
which alono I am enabled to do so.
I claim that by my art and by the use of the "flexible square," a
novice will be able to cut out garments as accurately and in most cases
better fitting than those cut out by experienced cutters under the old
systems, and moreover that a deformed or mis-shapen person may be
fitted with perfect accuracy.
This apparatus, and the methods of cutting out are clearly shewn in
the Drawings hereto annexed, in which similar letters of reference
indicate like parts, and where Figure 1 is a view of the flexible
square.
Figure 2 is a supplementary square or measure for taking the width
of the back.

page_text: Figure 4 is a side view, shewing the application of the flexible
square.
Figure 5 is a diagram shewing the square and the method of
drafting.
A is the flexible square of the configuration shewn, made preferably
of leather, with cotton back or lining, and with inside stiffening of
cardboard, but I do not confine myself to these particular materials, as
any others found suitable may be used. a, b, b¹, c, c¹, d, and d², are
pins or pivots firmly fastened to the square A, the pins b, c, and d being
respectively exactly in the same relative positions to the pin a, as the
pins b, c, and d¹; e and e¹ are sockets formed where shewn to receive
a straight edge B, made preferably of metal, thin enough to be elastic,
slotted at its upper end to fasten on the pin a, and provided with two
small pins fand g. C is the strap used, as will be hereafter explained;
D is a small square, resembling that used by carpenters, and provided
with a strap or measure E. This is for the purpose of taking the width
of the back, which is done by passing the long arm of the square under
the arm, passing the short arm close up to it, and taking the requisite
measure with the strap. This may, however, also be done without the
use of the said square D, by measuring from both sides across the back,
and by halving it finding the centre.
Figure 5 shews more particularly the method of taking the measure-
ments.
The flexible square, as will be seen by Figures 4 and 5, is pressed in
front closely up against the arm, and passes under it, the strap C
(Figs. 3 and 4) passing diagonally over the opposite shoulder, and being
buttoned on the breast to the pin N, thus keeping the square firmly in
place, while the measurements are being taken.
The part of the square passing under the arm gives the horizontal line
marked F, F, (Figure 5) and the other half the vertical line marked G, G;
from these lines are taken the measurements required. The metal
straight edge B forming part of the vertical line G, G, passes down in
front of the hip, and from this line may be taken all measurements for
the breast and waist and over the hip, both in front and back of the
instrument, thus giving the respective exact distances.

page_text: To shew the difference between this new method and the old one
generally used by tailors, I may mention that the ordinary way of
measuring would simply be to girt the waist, and it is obvious that by
such a method it is impossible to get the proper relative proportions.
The horizontal line F, F, (or the position of the under side of the arm)
once determined by the flexible square, gives a datum line for all
measures of height required in cutting out the back. For instance, to
ascertain the exact shape of the shoulder, the distance is first taken from
any given point H (Fig. 3) on the neck parallel with the centre of the
back to the line F, F, at the point I, from the point I to the pin d, and
from the pin d to the point H, all of these being short straight measures.
To shew the value of these it will be sufficient to say that in any two
men the distance from H to I might be exactly the same, and yet the
other two distances from H and I respectively to d differ very materially,
one man being perhaps round and the other high shouldered, and these
varying proportions can only be obtained accurately with relation to
those of the chest by means of this flexible sonare.

page_text: Second. The square A, with straight edge B, and shape C, whereby
the datum lines F and G are applied to the figure, constructed
substantially as described.
Third. The square D and measure strap E, when used in combination
with the flexible square, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Theodored Holland, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Third day of November, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
three.