IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR MAKING BUTTON- HOLES
Year: 1885

page_text: I, HERBERT JOHN ALLISON, of the firm of Allison Brothers, Patent Agents, of
52 Chancery Lane, London, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the
nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR MAKING BUTTON-
HOLES," communicated from abroad by the Wheeler and Wilson Manufacturing
Company (Incorporated) of Bridgeport, Connecticut, United States, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
My invention has for its object to simplify and improve the construction of this
class of machinery.
My invention consists in the construction and combination of parts as herein-
after fully described and then pointed out in the claims.
In order that others may understand my Invention I will proceed to describe the
same referring by letters to the accompanying Drawings forming part of this
specification, in which-
Fig. 1 is a side elevation, partially cut away to show the application of the stop
motion.
Fig. 2, a vertical, longitudinal section.
Fig. 3, a plan view, the arm being removed.
Fig. 4, a plan view, with the arm, sliding plate, feed wheel &c., removed.
Fig. 5, a bottom plan view.
Fig. 6, a front end elevation.
Figs. 7 and 8 are underside plan views of the sliding and turning plates, and
connections, in reversed positions.
Fig. 9 is an edge view of the sliding plate and connections.
Fig. 10, a transverse section on the line x, x, in Fig. 3, looking toward the left.
Figs. 11 and 12 are enlarged detail views in elevation and section respectively,
of the cord holder.
Fig. 13 is a detail of the feed wheel and parts operating in connection there.
with.

page_text: directly to the clamping arm,
Fig. 14 is a side elevation, the foot being lifted.
Fig. 15, a similar view, the foot being lowered, and
Fig. 16, a bottom plan view, and
Fig. 17, a central cross section of the foot. The construction here shown, being
an obvious modification of the preferred form which is illustrated in Figs. 23 to 27,
inclusive.
Fig. 18, a view of a buttonhole, divided off to show the operation of different
parts of the machine.
Fig. 19, a plan view, the arm and clamping mechanism being removed and the
operative parts below the sliding and turning plates shown in dotted lines.
•
Fig. 20, a side elevation of the cutter with the clamp in position for cutting.
Fig. 21, a central section with the clamp removed.
Fig. 22, a plan view, the arm and cutter shank being in section.
Fig. 23, a plan view.
Fig. 24, a side elevation of the clamp detached.
Fig. 25, a side elevation of the turning plate, clamping arm, cam lever &c., the
clamping arm being shown as lifted, and the cloth clamp removed.
Fig. 26, a similar side elevation with the cloth clamp in place, and the arm held
down by the cam lever, and
Fig. 27, a rear elevation corresponding with Fig. 26, the form here shown being
the one preferably used.
This
A is the bed of the machine. B, the arm. C, the main shaft. C¹, the hook
shaft. C, the variable connection. C³, the rotating hook. C, the supporter for
holding the bobbin in place. C, the take up cam. C, the eccentric which operates
the needle. C7, the eccentric rod. D, the rock shaft. D¹, the needle bar. D³, con-
nection with the rock shaft. E, the take up, and E, thread guides, all of which
belong to the Wheeler and Wilson No. 10 Machine. F is a loose pulley over
which the band passes. F¹, a pulley fast upon the main shaft. F2, the brake shoe.
F3, the brake shoe arm. F, the shipping lever. F, the shipping rod. F6, collars
on said rod. F7, the friction spring, and FS, the brake spring. G is a switch cam
which may be of any preferred construction. G¹ is the follower. H is a vibrating
lever, which is carried by a stud H, secured in the bed plate, see Fig. 5.
lever is provided with an armn H', in which the follower is journaled. H2 is the
feed actuating arm which is provided with a slot H³, as will be more fully
explained. His the needle vibrating arm having a slot H, in which the needle
vibrating connecting bar H7 is adjustably secured. I is the feed link which is
adjustably secured in slot H³. The other end of link I is pivoted to a stud K',
upon the outer end of vibrating tie bar K, which is journaled upon a stud K²,
projecting upward from the bed plate. K³ represents bosses which raise the tie
bar above the bed plate. L is the feed wheel which is journaled on stud K2, and is
provided with strait teeth L' on its periphery, and has rigidly secured to it, and
concentric with it a pinion L', for a purpose presently to be explained. M is
a double pointed feed pawl, journaled on stud K¹, which engages the teeth on the
feed wheel. This pawl is controlled by a trip lever M', also journaled on stud K.
A spring M2, whose opposite ends are attached to the feed link and. the trip
lever, acts to keep one point or the other of the pawl continually in engagement
with the feed wheel. When it is desired to feed to the right; the trip lever
is moved toward the right and comes in contact with a pin M³ on the pawl
which is then moved until the right point comes in contact with the feed
wheel, in which position it is held by the spring. If it is desired to feed
to the left the trip lever is moved in that direction, making nearly a half
revolution, lug M on the trip lever then comes in contact with pin M³, and acts to
lift the right point out of engagement with the teeth of the feed, wheel, and to force
the left point into engagement therewith, where it is held by the spring as before.
L', see Figs. 4 and 13, is a friction spring pivoted to the bed of the machine, the

page_text: opposite end of which bears upon the feed wheel, and acts to preserve the evenness
of its motion, that is to say, it prevents the wheel from throwing ahead, and, under
certain circumstances from being dragged backward by the feed pawl. N is the
sliding plate, which rests on the bed plate of the machine and on gear L². O is
the turning plate, which is supported in the sliding plate in any suitable manner.
I have shown it as supported by turn buttons N¹ pivoted to the sliding plate. N' is
a sliding bar having slots N' through which guide pins N upon the sliding plate
pass. No represents rack teeth upon bar N2, which engage with pinion L', which
imparts motion to said bar. O¹ represents a mutilated circle of gear teeth, on the
underside of the turning plate and concentric therewith, which engages with a
segment gear 0% 0³ represents a gear wheel (a segment gear may be substituted
if preferred) which is made integral with, or rigidly secured to, the segment, and is
concentric with it. Parts O' and 0³ are journaled on a stud O' projecting from the
sliding plate, the outer end of said stud being preferably supported by a bracket 05
also secured to the sliding plate. The sliding bar (N³) is provided with a section
of rack teeth N6, which mesh with gear 03 upon the segment, by means of which,
movement is imparted to the turning plate. P is a guide plate secured to the bed
of the machine by screws P¹. P is the needle guard projecting above said guide
plate the construction of which will be more fully described. 06 is a pin on the
underside of the turning plate, which engages straight slots P³, P, in the guide
plate. These slots are shown as connected by a curved slot P³, in which pin Oª
travels while half the round part of the buttonhole is being stitched, as will be
more fully explained. This slot however has no function other than as a clearance,
and the operation would be the same if that portion of the plate were entirely
removed, the metal surrounding the slot being retained to give strength to the
plate. P is an opening cut through plate P as a clearance for the variable motion
link. N7 is a pin on the underside of the sliding plate, which engages in slot P
in the guide plate. This slot is provided midway of its length with a curved
portion P8, which causes the slight deflection of the sliding plate necessary in
stitching the first and last quarters of the round half of the buttonhole. While
the outer half of the round portion of the buttonhole is being stitched pin N7 rests
in the center of the curvature, all of which will be more fully explained.
L³ represents a pin on the underside of the feed wheel. Qis a cam lever, pivoted
to the bed of the machine, with which pin L³ comes in contact, during the formation
of each buttonhole. R is a catch, actuated by a spring R', and passing through to
the underside of the bed plate where it is pivoted to a boss or lug R². This catch
engages in a notch N8 in the sliding plate, and acts to hold the sliding plate
stationary, while the turning plate is making a half revolution, and the outer half
of the round portion of the buttonhole is being stitched. Suppose a buttonhole is
to be stitched by movement toward the left, the parts at the commencement
would be in the position shown in Fig. 3, except that the feed pawl should be
reversed. At the instant that the first quarter of the round portion of the button-
hole is finished, i.e. when pin N7 is in the center of curvature P³, the sliding plate
will have passed to the left far enough to permit catch R to drop into notch N³,
which locks the sliding plate, at this instant the movement of the turning plate
begins, as the rotation of the feed wheel progresses, pin L³ comes in contact with
wall Q of cam lever Q. The normal position of this lever, is shown in Fig. 4, in
which position it is held by spring Q, see Fig. 5, which passes through aperture A¹
in the bed plate, and is secured in any suitable manner upon the underside of the
bed plate. When pin L³ comes in contact with the cam lever the latter is forced,
against the power of spring Q2 into the position shown in Fig. 13, at which
moment the right cam face Q is beginning to act on catch R, to force it out of the
notch in the sliding plate to release it. At the instant that the outer half of the
round portion of the buttonhole is completed, the sliding plate is released, and
again moves forward, and the stitching of the last quarter of the round portion
and the last half of the straight portion is then completed. During the stitching
of this portion of the buttonhole, pin L³ passes beyond wall Q of the cam lever,

page_text: "
which upon being released is instantly drawn back to its normal position by,
spring Q. In stitching a buttonhole toward the right the operation is reversed.
Pin L³ comes in contact with wall Q4 of the cam lever, which is moved into the
reverse position from that shown in Fig. 13, at which instant the left cam face Q
begins to act on catch R to force it out of notch N8. As before, at the instant
that the outer half of the round portion of the buttonhole is completed, the sliding
plate is released and again moves forward. The pinion L³ upon the underside of
the feed wheel is made large enough so that less than a full revolution is made in
stitching the longest buttonhole. In the construction of the machine, having
determined the length of the longest buttonhole that it is intended to stitch, the
pinion L' is so proportioned that when the end of the buttonhole is reached pin L³.
will come in contact with the vibrating tie bar K. If the buttonhole has been
stitched toward the left, pin L³ will come in contact with the right side of the tie
bar, if toward the right, then the pin will come in contact with the left side of the
tie bar. The effect is, to stop the feed at the instant that the length of the longest
buttonhole is reached. Suppose that the buttonhole has been stitched toward the
left, when the pre-determined limit has been. reached pin L³ will come in contact
with the right side of the tie bar. The left point of the feed pawl will of course
be acting on the feed wheel to move it forward, but the instant the pawl is lifted the
vibration of the tie bar.will carry the feed wheel backward just the distance that it was
carried forward by the feed pawl, so that in the event of the failure, from any means,.
of the automatic stopping mechanism, no injury can result to any portion of the
machine as it will be impossible to feed in either direction. F is a catch lever, which
passes through a slot A2 in the bed plate, and is pivoted therein. The upper end of
this lever projects above the bed plate sufficient distance to permit it to be readily
grasped by the hand. F10 is a plate secured to the bed plate, and having a lug or
projection F adapted to be engaged by the catch lever. Beneath the bed plate
this lever is provided with a right angled projection F12, to which a wire or cord
may be attached to enable the lever to be operated by the knee of the operator, or
a treadle, or in any suitable manner. The heel of lever F° rests in the slotted end
of the shipping rod and bears against the friction spring F'. N°, Nº are. a pair of
adjustable dogs secured at the edge of the sliding plate, which act to gage the
length of the button hole, and also by means of their beveled faces N10, to throw off
the catch lever from the shoulder in plate F10, at the completion of each buttonhole.
In commencing each buttonhole lever F is carried toward the left and engaged
with lug F on plate F. This acts to force the loose pulley against the tight
pulley, and starts the machine. At the instant that the end of the buttonhole is
reached one or the other of the dogs will come in contact with the catch lever and
release it from lug F". This releases the loose pulley from its contact with the
tight pulley, and allows the brake spring to act to stop the machine. As stated
above the rear end of the needle vibrating connecting bar H' is adjustably secured
in slot H³, from which point it extends forward under the arm, and is pivoted, as
at S¹, to the needle vibrator S. An important feature of my invention consists in
making slot 15 in the needle vibrating arm, an arc of a circle of which pivot $1 is
the center, by this construction I am enabled to increase or diminish the vibration
of the needle without affecting the inner line of the stitching, and without the
necessity of making the needle vibrating connecting bar longitudinally adjustable.
This vibrator is pivoted, as at S2, to the head of the machine, is curved around the
needle bar, and extends downward upon the outside of the head, being provided
with a vertical slot S³, which is engaged by an arm T₁ extending upward from the
needle carrier T. D³ is a collar secured at the lower end of the needle bar, by a set
screw, or in any suitable manner. D' is a projection at one side of this collar. T is
a similar projection on the needle carrier which is pivoted to projection D', as at T³.
It will of course be apparent that pivots S and Ts must be exactly in line with
each other, as the needle carrier, and the vibrator must oscillate in the same arc.
The needle D is secured in the needle carrier in the same manner that it is
ordinarily secured in the needle bar.

page_text: Instead of descending in the ordinary manner however, the action of the .
vibrating connecting bar H' and the vibrator S is to cause the needle to descend
alternately within and without the buttonhole, as will be more fully explained. The
needle guard P2 is provided with an elongated slot or opening P to accommodate
the vibration of the needle. This needle guard also serves as a guide for the cord,
when corded buttonholes are desired, the construction being such that the cord may
be fed in either direction. Fig. 11 is a left side view of my combined needle guard
and cord holder, and Fig. 12 is a transverse section thereof. The cord is carried in
any suitable manner as for instance on a spool placed between disks p¹, p' on the
spindle p. From the spool the cord passes up through an aperture p³ in the cord
guide, then, if the buttonhole is to be stitched toward the right, the cord is passed
to the left in groove p*, see Fig. 4, around at the left side of the guide in groove p³,
see Fig. 11, then across the guide in groove p6, see Fig. 4, which latter groove
intersects the needle slot, as shown in Fig. 4, so that in operation the needle
descends alternately on opposite sides of the cord. If the buttonhole is to be
stitched toward the left, the cord is passed toward the right in groove p, then
around at the side of the guide in a groove corresponding to p³, and back from
right to left in groove p. p, see Fig. 3, is a spring catch which holds the end of
the cord at the begining of a buttonhole.
In Figs. 20 to 27 inclusive A represents the bed. B, the arm, and C, the
operating lever of a cutting press, which may be of any ordinary construction and
may be bolted or otherwise secured to the table of the machine (not shown). D is
the cutter, which I have shown as an eyelet end cutter. D¹ is the shank working
in the head B¹, and D2, the spring for holding the cutter in its raised position. E is
the cutting block, which is preferably faced with metal as at E¹, and is held in
position by a set screw E. F¹ is a plate attached to the bed in any suitable
manner, which is provided with a groove or channel corresponding in outline with
the cloth clamp G. This clamp consists of two spring plates or arms G¹, having
serrations G2 upon their inner faces which act to hold the cloth. The exact
construction of the clamp is not an essential feature of my invention, but I
preferably construct it substantially as indicated in Figs. 23 and 24. G³ is a stump
or projection on the lower plate. The upper plate is bent upward then backward
parallel again with the lower plate, and is pivoted to the top of stump G³. The
rear ends of arms G¹ act as handles, the clamp being held closed by a spring G
placed between the arms. G5 is an opening through both plates to permit the
cutter to pass in the act of cutting a buttonhole, and which is also made just large
enough to permit the flange on the clamping plate to pass within it, the clamp itself
serving as the presser foot of the machine, as will be more fully explained.
07 is a bracket riveted or otherwise secured to the turning plate of the machine.
U is the clamping arm pivoted thereto. U³, the flange, and U³, one of the springs.
08 is a standard projecting upward from the bracket, and passing through a slot
(not shown) in the clamping arm. U is a spring under the arm which acts to hold
it in its raised position as in Fig. 25. U³ is a nut engaging a screw thread on the
standard, and U, a cam lever pivoted to the nut, which acts when turned down to
hold arm U in its lowered position, as in Figs. 26 and 27. In use the clamp is
placed upon the goods, the place where the button hole is to be cut being located
at opening G³.
The clamp with the goods in it is then placed in the groove in plate F. The
serrations upon the faces of the clamp, assisted by the power of the spring, render
it impossible for the clamp to slip upon the goods. As the outlines of the clamp
and the groove correspond with each other, the clamp, when placed in the groove,
is securely held against lateral or end wise movement, so that there can be no
danger, after the clamp is placed upon the goods, but that the buttonhole will be
cut in the right place. The cutting is done by a single downward movement of the
cutter, actuated by arm B, or in any suitable manner.
After having served as a holder for the work in the act of cutting the buttonhole,
the-clamp is next made to serve as the presser foot of the machine while the

page_text: buttonhole is being stitched. 09, see Figs. 7 and 8, represents an aperture in the
turning plate which corresponds with opening G³ (see Fig. 23) in the clamp.
These apertures are sufficiently large to permit the flange Us on the clamping arm
to pass slightly below the upper surface of the foot, and also to receive the needle
guard P2, which reaches nearly to the upper surface of the turning plate. To fix
the work in the machine it is simply necessary to place the clamp under arm U¹,
flange U being placed within opening G³, said opening and flange being made to
correspond with each other, as stated above. When the cam lever is turned down
the flange comes in contact with the goods about three sixteenths of an inch from
the cut for the buttonhole, or outside the line of stitching, and its action is to
stretch the cloth within opening G³ like a drum head, thus opening the buttonhole
equally from end to end.
The pressure upon the goods may be regulated by screwing nut U³ up or down.
on the standard, thus compressing spring U2 Springs U° act to separate arm U¹
from the clamp, when the cam lever is raised. I contemplate using as many clamps
as may be necessary, and shall place as many upon each piece of work as there are
buttonholes to be stitched in said piece. While the machine is stitching the
buttonholes upon one piece of work, the operator will be placing the clamps upon
another piece, and cutting the buttonholes therein. It will thus be seen that
having once placed the clamps in the right places the cutting, and the centering in
the machine, cannot fail to be done accurately.
The saving in time is very great, as the only stoppage necessary between
buttonholes, is the few seconds necessary to lift the cam lever, take one clamp
from arm U¹, and place another under it.
In Figs. 1, 2, 14, 15, 16, and 17, I have illustrated a modification, in which the
clamp is dispensed with and a foot U is attached to the clamping arm U¹. Fig. 14
shows the cam lever and the foot in their raised positions. To clamp the foot
down upon the goods the cam lever is turned down against the power of spring U³,
the same as when the clamp is used. The holding surface of the foot consists of a
serrated plate U6, having a central opening U³, corresponding in shape with flange U³,
which just permits the plate to pass freely over the flange. U10 represents an
enlargement in the flange and serrated plate to allow for the stitching around the
cyelet end of the buttonhole. The serrated plate is held in position upon the body
of the foot by screws U³, operated from the top of the plate. U represents springs
between the body of the foot and the serrated plate, which are also held in position
by the screws, and act to hold the serrated plate away from the body of the foot
when the latter is lifted as in Fig. 14, but when the foot is pressed down as in
Fig. 15, the springs are compressed and the goods held firmly between the serrated
plate, and the turning plate. The action of the flange as it is pressed down below
the surface of the plate, into aperture 09 is to stretch that portion of the goods over
the aperture thus opening the buttonhole from end to end, as in the other form.
The operation of the entire machine is as follows. For convenience in illustration
the machine has been shown as not threaded, and with no work in the clamp.
The clamp is placed upon the goods as already described, the place where the
buttonhole is to be cut being located at the center of opening G. The clamp,
and with it the goods, is then placed in the groove in plate F, (Fig. 22) and the
buttonhole cut in the manner described. After the button hole is cut, the clamp
with the goods still in it is placed under arm U¹, with flange U in the opening G³..
The arm is then clamped down by the cam lever as shown in Fig. 26, which
stretches the buttonhole, as has been fully explained. As already stated any
number of clamps may be used upon the goods.
In Fig. 3, the parts are shown in the position of finishing a buttonhole which has
been stitched toward the right. Having completed the buttonhole, the parts are in
position for stitching a buttonhole toward the left except that the right point of the
feed pawl should be lifted from the feed wheel and the left point placed in engage-
ment therewith, which is done by moving the trip lever toward the left, In Fig. 19,

page_text: the parts are represented as in position to commence the stitching of a buttonhole
toward the left.
Having placed the clamp, with the goods in it under the clamping arm and
secured it with the cam lever the machine is ready to be started. This is done by
moving the catch lever toward the left and holding it until engaged with the lug
on the catch lever plate, this movement operates the friction clutch, causing the
loose pulley to engage the tight pulley, thus starting the machine. The follower
traveling in the grooves of the switch cam causes the vibration of lever H. The
feed link I, which carries the feed pawl is adjustably secured in slot H³, in arm H³¸,
and is actuated by said arm to rotate the feed wheel.
The length of the stitches is controlled by the position at which the feed link is
secured in slot H³.
To lengthen the stitch, the feed link is moved outward from the pivotal point of
the vibrating lever H. To shorten the stitch, the feed link is moved inward.
It should be understood that in changing the stitch the feed wheel should also
be changed, that is, a feed wheel of the same diameter should be inserted, but
baving finer or coarser teeth as may be required. This change, however, is seldom
required in this class of machines, the essential feature, being that the spacing of
the stitches remains the same, no matter what changes may be made in the length
of the buttonhole. As the feed wheel rotates pinion L³ is carried with it. This
pinion meshes with rack teeth N upon sliding bar N. Rack teeth No, upon this
bar, are in engagement with gear O³, but as the turning plate is held against
rotation by the engagement of pin 06 in slot P³ in the guide plate, the action of
pinion L is to carry the sliding plate, and with it the turning plate, forward in one
direction or the other, in the present instance toward the left. This movement
continues until pin 06 reaches the end of the straight slot P³ and is ready to pass
into the curved slot, or clearance P, at which instant pin N, on the sliding plate
will have reached the center of the curvature P³, in slot P7, in the guide plate.
Pin L³ will have just come in contact with the left wall of cam lever Q, and catch R
will have passed into notch N8 in the sliding plate, the effect being to lock the
sliding plate and release the turning plate. At this moment the section of the
buttonhole indicated by a, in Fig. 18, that is, the first half of the straight part, and
the first quarter of the eyelet part of the buttonhole will have been completed, and
the stitching of the section indicated by b, (that is the second and third quarters of
the eyelet part) will commence. The continued movement of the sliding bar now
acts to impart movement to gear 03, which carries the segment 0%. The latter
meshing with the mutilated circle of gear teeth O', causes the turning plate to
make just a half revolution. During this time pin 0° travels the entire length
of the curved slot, or clearance, and as the third quarter of the eyelet part of
the buttonhole is completed said pin 06 has reached the straight slot P4 in the
guide plate.
During this time pin L³ on the feed wheel has been acting to carry the cam lever
into the position in which it is shown in Fig. 13, at which moment the right cam
face of said cam lever has commenced to act on catch R, to release it from notch NB
in the sliding plate. This releasement of the sliding plate is effected at the exact
instant that pin 06 reaches slot P in the guide plate, and the stitching of the outer
half i.e, the second and third quarters of the eyelet, is completed.
Having effected the release of the sliding plate, pin L' passes away from the cam
lever, which upon being released is drawn back to its normal position. The turning
plate is now held against further rotation by the engagement of pin 0%, with the
straight slot P', so that parts 0³, 0ª, and O¹, form a positive connection as in the
first instance thus causing the sliding plate to move forward to complete section c,
of the button hole, that is, the last quarter of the eyelet and the last half of the
straight portion. The eyelet being finished while pin N' is traveling in curvature P³,
in the slot in plate P, and the straight part being completed while said pin is traveling
in the straight part of said slot which is at the left of the curvature, Pin OⓇ at the

page_text: same time is traveling toward the left in the straight slot P4in the guide plate. Briefly
then, the first straight portion of the buttonhole is stitched while pin 'N' is traveling
from the right of slot P toward the curvature at its center, as the pin passes into
said curvature, it causes a slight.deflection in the line of movement of the sliding
plate, during which the first quarter of the eyelet is stitched.. The turning plate
has been stationary and pin O has been traveling in one of the straight slots in
the guide plate up to the completion of the first quarter of the eyelet. At the
instant that pin N7 reaches the center of the curvature P8 it stops, the sliding
plate being locked, and the turning plate begins its half revolution, during which
pin O travels the length of the curved slot or clearance P³. During this move-
ment, the outer half of the eyelet has been stitched, at the completion of the half
revolution of the turning plate it stops, and the sliding plate again moves forward.
As pin N' moves out of the curvature P8, the last quarter of the eyelet is completed.
At this instant the pin will have reached the straight portion of the slot on the
opposite side of the curvature, and the sliding plate will move in a right line until
the stitching of the second straight portion of the buttonhole is completed.
The length of the buttonhole is determined by the adjustment of the dogs N°
upon the sliding plate. To lengthen the buttonhole these dogs are each moved an
equal distance in opposite directions. To shorten the button hole they are moved
closer together. Each of the dogs is provided with a beveled face N10, which at
the instant the buttonhole is completed forces the catch lever out of engagement
with the lug on plate F10, which releases the friction spring thus disconnecting the
tight and loose pulleys, and also allows the brake spring to act, which stops the
machine almost instantly. The stitching of a buttonhole toward the right is
performed in precisely the same manner. The work is adjusted as before, but no
adjustment or setting of the machine is required, other than a single movement of
the trip lever toward the right, which disengages the left point of the feed pawl,
and places the right point in engagement with the feed wheel. The machine may
then be started as before by moving the catch lever to the left. As stated above
no damage can result to the machine should the automatic stopping mechanism
fail to act, as the feeding action must stop the instant that pin L³ comes in contact
with the vibrating tie bar, as has been fully explained.
Should the machine fail to stop therefore at the end of the buttonhole the only
result would be a piling up of stitches until the thread broke. An important
feature of my present machine is that the construction enables me to dispense with
all mechanism for vibrating the sliding plate, and also avoid vibration of the needle
bar. The needle carrier is so pivoted to the needle bar as to be free to swing in a
short arc, thus causing the needle to descend alternately upon the inside and the
outside of the buttonhole.
The amount of vibration imparted to the carrier determines the depth or bight
of the stitches in the goods. The pivotal point of the vibrator is in a vertical line
with the pivot of the carrier, and any suitable connection may be made between
them which will permit the free vertical movement of the needle bar but will at
the same time hold it against lateral movement and also control the vibration of
the needle carrier. Each vibration of lever H is transmitted to the needle
vibrator by the connecting bar H7. As the slot in the needle vibrating arm, in
which the connecting bar is pivoted, is an arc of a circle of which the pivot
connecting said bar with the vibrator, is the center, I am enabled to dispense with
any longitudinal adjustment of said bar. To deepen the bight of the stitch in the
goods, the pivot which connects bar H7 with the needle vibrating arm is loosened,
and said pivot is moved in slot H³ away from the pivotal point of the vibrating
lever. To loosen the bight of the stitch in the goods the pivot of bar H7 is moved
toward the pivotal point of the vibrating lever..
I do not of course limit myself to the exact construction shown and described,
as the details may be varied in many respects without departing from the spirit of
my invention

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. The vibrating tie bar carrying the feed pawl, the feed wheel, and a gear
carried thereby, in combination with the sliding bar, the independent sliding plate,
and gear 08.
2. The feed wheel, a gear carried thereby, and an independently sliding bar
actuated by said gear, in combination with the sliding and turning plates and
mechanism, for example gears 03, 0³ for connecting the turning plate with the
sliding bar.
3. The combination with clamping and stitching mechanism, of the double
pointed feed pawl and actuating mechanism, the feed wheel and a pinion carried
thereby, the sliding plate, and a bar engaging the pinion and adapted to slide
independently of said plate.
4. The combination with clamping and stitching mechanisin, the pinion, feed.
wheel, and double pointed feed pawl, of a turning plate carried by the sliding
plate, a bar having teeth engaging the gear and carried by the sliding bar, but
adapted to move independently thereof, and intermediate mechanism whereby
motion may be imparted to the turning plate from the sliding bar.
5. The feed wheel and pinion, in combination with the sliding and turning
plates, and an independent sliding bar having sections N³, N° of rack teeth, and
gears 0, 0, whereby the turning plate is actuated.
6. The combination with the feeding mechanism and the sliding plate having a
notch N8, of a catch engaging said notch, a turning plate carried by the sliding
plate, and intermediate gearing as 03, 03, which acts to rotate the turning plate
when the sliding plate is held, and to carry both plates forward when the sliding
plate is not held.
7. The turning plate having gear teeth O', a segment gear engaging therewith,
and carrying a gear O³ in combination with the sliding bar having sections N³, N°
of rack teeth, the sliding plate, and the feed wheel and pinion.
8. The combination with the tight and loose pulleys, the brake, friction and
brake springs, and rod, of the catch lever and its plate, and adjustable dogs upon
the sliding plate, one of which acts to release the catch lever and the friction
spring, at the completion of a buttonhole.
9. The combination with the sliding and turning plates, the cloth clamp, and
actuating mechanism, of the catch lever and its plate, the stop mechanism and
adjustable dogs on the sliding plate, whereby the length of the buttonhole may be
regulated..
10. The sliding plate having a notch at one side, and a catch adapted to engage
said notch, in combination with the feed wheel having a pin upon one side, and a
lever having cam faces which act on the catch, and walls against which said pin
acts, thereby releasing the sliding plate.
11. The double acting cam lever against which the catch rests, and which is
provided with walls Q', Q, and with cam faces Q3, Q5, in combination with the
feed wheel having pin L³, the sliding plate, and the catch.
12. The cam lever having cam faces Q3, Q5, which act against the catch, and
walls Q, Q, against which pin La acts, in combination with spring Q³, which
returns the cam lever to its normal position, the sliding plate having notches N³,
the spring actuated catch, and the feed wheel carrying pin L³.
13. The feed pawl and actuating mechanism, in combination with the vibrating
tie bar which carries said pawl, and the feed wheel having a pin which comes in.
contact with the tie bar when a revolution has been nearly completed, whereby
the feed wheel is caused to vibrate without forward movement.
14. Stud K2 carrying the vibrating tie bar and the feed wheel, and actuating
mechanism, in combination with a double pointed pawl, and trip lever carried by
the tie bar, and the feed wheel having a pin which comes in contact with said tie

page_text: -
bar when the revolution is nearly completed, whereby said feed wheel may be
.caused to feed in either direction, until said pin strikes the tie bar.
15. The sliding plate, and the turning plate carried thereby, in combination with
a reversible feeding mechanism, intermediate connecting mechanism, for example,
the independent sliding bar and gearing for connecting both plates with the feeding
mechanism, and a spring catch, whereby the sliding plate is moved forward a
pre-determined distance then held while the turning plate is caused to make a half
revolution, and then released and moved forward to complete the buttonhole.
°
16. The combination with a reversible feeding mechanism, the sliding bar, and
gears 0%, 0³, of the sliding plate, carrying the turning plate, and having a pin
which engages a slot with a curvature at its center, as and for the purpose set
forth.
.
17. The sliding plate, and the turning plate carried thereby, in combination with
feeding mechanism, intermediate connecting mechanism, for example the sliding
bar and gearing as shown, a spring catch engaging the sliding plate, and adjustable
dogs on the sliding plate which act on the catch lever which controls the friction
and brake mechanism whereby the sliding plate is moved forward a pre-determined
distance then held, and the turning plate moved half around, when the sliding
plate again moves forward until one of the adjustable dogs engages the catch lever.
18. The sliding plate baving a pin which engages a slot with a curvature at its
center, and the turning plate having a pin which engages two slots connected by a
clearance, in combination with the spring catch, the cam lever, the feed wheel
carrying a pin, and mechanism, for example the sliding bar and gearing, between
the feed wheel and the two plates, whereby the sliding plate is moved forward
then obliquely by said curvature and held while the turning plate is turned half
around, when the sliding plate moves obliquely again, then forward as before.
°
19. The guide plate having parallel longitudinal slots on opposite sides of the
needle guard, the outer ends of which are connected by a curved slot or clearance,
and a longitudinal slot with a curvature at its center, in combination with the
sliding and turning plates having pins which engage said slots, and operating and
connecting mechanism.
20. The guide plate having slots P3, P4, P5, and P7, sliding plate having pin N7,
and the turning plate having pin 06 and gear teeth 01, in combination with
segment 0%, carrying gear O³, the sliding bar having rack teeth N³, No, and the
feed wheel, and pinion.
21. The sliding plate having notch N° and pin N7, engaging slot P' with
curvature Ps, and the turning plate having pin 07 engaging in slots P³, P4, and P³,
in combination with catch R, the feed wheel, and connecting mechanism.
22. The combination of the following instrumentalities to wit, a turning plate to
which the work is secured, a sliding plate which carries the turning plate, a spring
catch engaging the sliding plate, feeding mechanism, and intermediate connecting
mechanism, for example the sliding bar and gearing, and the slotted guide plate
engaged by pins upon the sliding and turning plates, whereby both plates are fed
forward to stitch the first straight side, then moved slightly from the direct line to
stitch the first quarter of the eyelet, then the sliding plate is held, and the turning
plate rotated to stitch the outer half of the eyelet, after which the turning plato
again moves forward to complete the button hole.
23. The combination of the following instrumentalities, to wit, 1st, a cloth clamp
having a central opening. 2d, a cutting device consisting essentially of a bed
having a groove corresponding in outline with the cloth clamp, and a cutter
actuated in any suitable manner, which cuts the buttonhole, and 3d, a clamping
arm attached to a sewing machine which is adapted to hold the cloth clamp and
the work therein firmly in place upon the machine, whereby having adjusted the
clamp, the accurate cutting of the buttonhole, and accurate centering in the
machine are made certain.
24. The cloth clamp having a central opening, the cutter, and a bed having a
groove corresponding in outline with the cloth clamp, in combination with a plate

page_text: upon a sewing machine having an opening corresponding with the opening in the
clamp, and a clamping arm attached thereto and having a flange adapted to fit
within the opening in the cloth clamp, whereby when said clamping arm is pressed
down, the cloth within the opening is stretched and the button hole opened from
end to end.
25. The cutting device consisting of a cutter and actuating mechanism, a cutting
bed, and a grooved plate, in combination with a clamp adapted to engage the cloth
and to rest in said groove, whereby the location of the buttonhole is determined by
the adjustment of the clamp.
20. A sewing machine plate having an opening corresponding in outline with a
buttonhole, and having attached thereto a swinging clamping arm with a flange
adapted to fit said opening, in combination with a clamp adapted to engage the
cloth, and having a central opening adapted to receive the flange, whereby the
buttonhole is accurately centered in the machine.
27. A sewing machine plate having an opening corresponding in outline with a
buttonhole, a clamping arm pivoted thereto and having a flange engaging said
opening, in combination with a cloth clamp having an opening which is adapted to
engage said flange, and a cam lever for clamping down the arm, whereby the goods
within said opening is stretched, and the buttonhole fully opened.
28. A sewing machine cloth plate having an elongated opening, a bracket and
a standard, a clamping arm pivoted to said bracket and having a flange adapted to
engage the opening in the cloth plate, and springs at the sides of said flange, in
combination with a cloth clamp adapted to engage said flange, against which said
springs bear, a cam lever adapted to clamp down the arm, and a spring adapted to
raise it when the cam lever is lifted.
29. A plate having an aperture corresponding in general outline with a button-
hole, in combination with a foot having a downwardly projecting flange adapted to
fit within said aperture, and a serrated plate loosely secured to the foot outside of
said flange, and adapted to yield vertically relatively to the flange when the foot is
lowered.
30. The turning plate having a bracket to which the foot is pivoted, and an
aperture corresponding in general outline with a buttonhole, in combination with a
flange projecting from the foot and adapted to fit within said aperture, a serrated
plate secured to the foot through which the flange projects, and which is adapted
to yield vertically relatively thereto, and a cam lever to clamp it down, whereby
the cloth within the aperture is stretched like a drum head after being clamped.
31. The turning plate having an aperture corresponding in general outline with
a button hole, in combination with a flange upon the foot which fits within said
aperture, an independent serrated plate surrounding the flange which is adapted to
bear upon the turning plate, and to yield vertically relatively to the flange, and
a cain lever for pressing the serrated plate down upon the work.
32. A plate having an aperture, in combination with a swinging foot carried by
said plate, said foot having a flange which is adapted to fit within the aperture,
and a serrated plate which is loosely attached to the foot, and is forced downward
by springs located between said serrated plate and the foot.
33. An open foot for buttonhole sewing machines having a serrated plate
loosely attached thereto which holds the work, springs which press said plate
downward, and a flange projecting below said plate, in combination with a
plate having an aperture which receives said flange, and a cam lever for pressing
down the foot, whereby the cloth within said aperture and flange is tightly
stretched, and the buttonhole fully opened from end to end.
34. The combination with a plate having an aperture and carrying a swinging
foot, and mechanism for imparting longitudinal motion to said plate, of a combined
needle guard and cord carrier which projects upward into said slot and is provided
with cross slots and side grooves, whereby the cord may be fed in either.
direction.

page_text: 35. A plate having an aperture and carrying the foot, and mechanism for
imparting movement to said plate, in combination with a needle guard and cord
carrier having an elongated needle slot, a hole through which the cord enters from
below, a longitudinal slot communicating therewith, cross slots at each side, and
a main cord slot crossing the needle slot midway of its length, whereby the cord
may be fed in either direction and will pass between the two lines of stitching.
36. The needle bar having a collar, the needle carrier pivoted thereto and having
an arm T¹, and the slotted vibrator pivoted back of the needle bar around which
it curves and extends downward in front of the head, in combination with an arm
pivoted to the vibrator whose other end is pivoted in a slot in the needle vibrating
arm, said slot being an arc of a circle of which the vibrator pivot is the center, as
and for the purpose set forth.
.
37. The needle bar having a collar at its lower end provided with an inward
projection, and the needle carrier pivoted to said projection, and having an
upwardly projecting arm, in combination with the vibrator pivoted to the head in
a vertical line with the needle carrier pivot, and having a vertical slot in which
the carrier arm slides, and a connecting bar which imparts motion to the vibrator.
38. The combination with the spindle and disks for holding the cord spool, and
the cord holder having openings p and p³, and grooves p, p, and p6, which permit
the cord to be fed in either direction, of the clamping arm, the sliding and turning
plates and actuating mechanism.
39. The vibrating lever having arms H³, H*, which actuate the feed wheel, and
the needle vibrator, in combination with the sliding plate, the turning plate
carried thereby, which carries the cloth clamp, the catch engaging the sliding
plate, and intermediate connecting mechanism, for example the sliding bar and
gears 0, 0³, whereby the cloth clamp is moved forward, and turned, then forward
again, and the needle is caused to descend alternately within the buttonhole, and
into the goods surrounding it.

page_text: _M"