CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS
Year: 1837

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
AUGUSTUS WELLS, of New York, formerly residing at the North and South
American Coffee House, in the City of London, and now at 29, Henrietta
Street, Brunswick Square, in the County of Middlesex, Hat Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria the First,
by Her Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Thirtieth day of June, in the first year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Henry Augustus Wells, Her especial license, that I, the said Henry Augustus
Wells, my executors, administrators, or such others as I, the said Henry
Augustus Wells, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the
term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed,
my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS ;" in
which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso, obliging me, the said Henry
Augustus Wells, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, par-
ticularly to describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, and to cause the same to be enrolled in Her
said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in and by the
same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Henry Augustus Wells, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Inven-

page_text: tion consists, as herein-after more particularly described, in certain improve-
ments in various of the processes of the hat manufacture from the first process
of clearing the fur and other substances and in making the hat bodies, and
used for napping, to that process of the hat manufacturer which consists
in covering the hat body with a nap previous to its being dyed, or sent to
the hatter to be shaped and made up for wear; and such improvements,
stated more in detail, consist in new or improved methods, first, of clearing
fur used in the making of hat bodies, and for napping; second, of con-
verting the same fur, when to be used for the formation of the substance
or texture for hat bodies, into a fine web or fleece; third, of applying
steam in the formation of the latter into hat bodies; fourth, of hardening or
basoning; fifth, of felting or planking; sixth, of stiffening or proofing;
seventh, of covering hat bodies (commonly called ruffing or napping, and
clearing the nap, all by means presently to be described; and also further
consist in the production of an improved substance or texture for hat bodies,
by means of the use or application of a much larger proportion of non-felting
materials than have been used in making hat bodies heretofore, and whereby
a pile or nap is so produced from such non-felting materials conjointly with
the felting furs or wools, as to render unnecessary the application to or
sticking on of a nap to the hat bodies made of such improved substance or
texture.
And in further compliance with the said proviso, I, the said Henry Augustus
Wells, do hereby describe the manner in which my said Invention of the said
several improvements is to be performed, reference being had to the Drawings
annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon.
Figure 1, Plate 1, is a longitudinal section of a blowing machine used for
the purpose of clearing the fur to be used in making the hat bodies or to be
used for napping. This machine consists of a cased frame divided into three
or more compartments, separated by the divisions I, I, each containing a
cylindrical blower or picker marked D, studded with small spikes or wires
about five-eighths of an inch in length each, and placed about half an inch
apart from each other, revolving on an axle, at the extremity of which is fixed
a small pulley (P), for the purpose of receiving motion from the moving or
driving pulley L. A and B are two rollers (in each division), which must be
made of the same length as the cylindrical blower or picker, and those I have
generally made about thirty inches in length. These rollers carry an endless
feed apron, made of cloth, leather, or other suitable substance, and receiving
motion from the belt connecting a small pulley on the driving shaft of L with
a larger pulley on the axle of A, at the contrary side of the machine to that

page_text: presented to view in Figure 1; C, C, are two feeding or delivering rollers of
the same length as the rollers A, B; and M is a wire grating or sieve (in each
division) suspended at the point N on an axle, and having a slight recipro-
cating motion imparted to it by two pins or cams protruding from the shaft S,
which latter is connected by a belt with the rollers B; E, E, E, are chambers
covered with fine wire, woven sufficiently close to allow the air to escape
without the fur. The machine being set in motion, and the workman having
commenced spreading the fur upon the endless web, connecting A and B at
the feeding end of the machine under L, the fur will be obviously carried
forward and drawn into the first compartment by the feeding rollers C, C, and
the finer particles of the fur are driven or wafted by the quick revolutions of
the cylindrical picker D into the upper space E, the remaining particles in the
meanwhile falling upon the wire grate M; such part of them as consists of
hair will be caused to pass or fall through into the space or box H, and such
of them as consist of dags and dirt will be shaken off by the motion given, as
above described, to the wire grating or sieve M into the space G. The fur
which is carried, wafted, or driven on to the feed apron of the succeeding
compartments will in like manner be drawn through the second compart-
ment, and so in like manner through the third compartment or any further
number of compartments, and be ultimately brought out by the last pair of
delivering rollers C, C, at the further end of the machine. The fur, when the
same is intended to be used in making hat bodies, is then to be taken and
placed upon another machine, for the purpose of being formed into a fine web
or fleece, to be afterwards felted into hat bodies. When the fur is intended to
be used for napping, it should be gathered and set apart ready to be applied
for napping; and so also the furs cleared by the said machine suitable for hat
bodies may be gathered and made into hat bodies by any of the methods or
processes now in use. I however take the said last-mentioned fur, and make
the same into a web or fleece by means of the machine next mentioned. The
dags falling into the boxes G may be again passed through the machine, for
the
purpose of procuring any remaining portion of fur which may have tallen
with them.
Figure 1, Plate 2, is a longitudinal section of the machine for forming the
fur into a fine web or fleece. This machine consists of a common carding
engine having one main cylinder; B, a feed apron; A, feed rollers, licker in,
workers, strippers, fancy cylinder, and doffer, as represented around it, all, of
which are so well known as to need no description, as it is in no way altered
by me, excepting that the cylinders are smaller than usual, and that I place a
circular covering over the fancy, so as to throw the fur raised by it upon the

page_text: doffer cylinder; and I have also attached a second fancy cylinder marked C,
driven by the pulley T, by which all the fur thrown upon the doffer by the first
fancy, and all that which may be taken by the doffer from the main cylinder,
is thrown by the last fancy into the air in the next department of the machine,
where it is formed into a web by the following machinery :-G, G 1, G 2, are
three rollers receiving their motion from the pulley D, which latter takes its
motion from a pulley Y on the same shaft which moves the feed apron of the
cord by the belt marked a; around these rollers there is an apron or endless
fine woven wire N, through which air can pass, but not the fur; b, b, are two
apertures through the side of the.. machine, for the purpose of admitting
air; E is a fan formed on a shaft resting on and turning in bearings
between the apertures v, v, and supported on the other end by an upright
outside the frame. This fan is formed of a flat circular board about four
feet in diameter, to which (next the frame) are affixed four fans marked
h, h, h, h, made of sheet iron or some other thin. metallic substance,
about one foot wide, revolving as near to the side of the machine as
possible without danger of coming in contact; V is a projecting board, cover-
ing about two-thirds of the space between the fancy C and the first
roller G; e, e, are two rollers bearing and revolving. by contact upon the
rollers G 1, G 2, and having a lateral motion given to them by two levers
R, R; these two levers rest or move upon centres f, f, near the middle; the
upper ends slide in an eccentric groove varying one half inch from a true
circular line fixed on the same shaft. as the pulley O, which latter receives
motion from the driving pulley L. H is a small pulley worked from G, and
having a crank or pin I fixed to the side thereof; to this crank is attached a
connecting rod 1, communicating at the other end with a board. J. The
machinery being set in motion by the driving pullies K, L, M, N, the fur on
coming from the card fancy C, after having passed through the carding
machine, will be drawn.forward by the fan E and be conducted upon the endless
wire web N, covering G, G1, G2, from which it will be conducted after being
somewhat hardened by the pressure and lateral motion of e, e, in the direction
of g upon the board J, there laid in successive folds by the motion which the
board receives from the crank I, and, in this.state, when in sufficient quantity,
it may be removed either, to the next machine, in order to its further use in
forming the hat body, or otherwise applied in forming the hat body by any of
the processes now in use. The foregoing machine and carding engine are
surrounded by a wooden case marked P, P, P.
Figure 1, Plate 3, is a front elevation of another machine, to which the web of
fur is next to be conducted, for the purpose of being formed into a hat body.

page_text: A, A, represent the several upright pieces of the framework; L, L, are two
pieces of horizontal framework connected by girths or stretchers and properly
supported, and have on their top surfaces a rib of iron extending the whole length
to form a railway for the carriage resting upon the wheels K, K; N, N, are
two uprights connected by two girths resting on the axles of the wheels K, K.
N, N, are connected by the board W; the said uprights N, N, at their tops
support the bearings of the two rollers R, R. On the under side of the bottom of
the carriage is placed a piece of board, two inches wide and one and a half inch
thick, fixed transversely. In this piece of wood is fixed a pin, connected to a
crank by the rod or shaft n, which crank works under the carriage and pro-
duces a transverse or alternating motion of the carriage; the crank shaft
receives its motion by the bevil wheel T, geered into bevil U, fixed on the shaft
V, which is supported by framework, and receiving motion from the driving
pulley B, by the pinion D working into a spur wheel C; P and P 1 are two
pulleys fixed upon the ends of the rollers R, R, and connected together by a
belt; O is another pulley fixed on the axle of the lower roller R, receiving
motion from the pulley J by means of a belt. In the shaft I is a groove, to
admit of the pulley J sliding upon the same as the carriage traverses; and in
this pulley is a corresponding key, so that both shall revolve together without
the latter being confined endwise. On the shaft I is fixed a pulley H, receiving
motion by a belt from the pulley G, which is set in motion on being properly
connected with the driving pulley B. S is a shaft supporting and passing
through a double cone X, X, made of tin or other light substance, covered
with cloth, and on which the hat bodies are to be formed. In the centre of the
said cones is a small groove g, for the convenience of dividing the hat bodies
when formed and ready to be removed; 'on the shaft S is fixed a pulley F,
receiving motion from the pulley E by a belt. A small box is placed nearly
under the centre of the cones, to receive any fur that may fall from the cones,
and directly underneath the cones are small pipes having minute apertures for "
the purpose of admitting steam to the web in its progress towards the cones,
and also when on the cones for the purpose of giving the hat body a more
adhesive or felting quality. The machinery-being set in motion by means of a
pulley B, the web of fur is to be brought from the machine, Figure 1, Plate 2,
last described, and laid upon a board placed near to the cones, one end of the
web is to be then gently raised from the board and passed over the carrying
rollers R, R, and thence be conducted to the cones X, X; and while the
carriage traverses from side to side the web covers the cones from point to
point, and it should be wound from three to five times round the cones, accord-
ing to the substance of the bodies required. The hat bodies from these cones,

page_text: or otherwise constructed upon other cones, may then be hardened in the
manner next herein-after described. When the cones are covered they may
be removed and replaced with other like cones, ready to receive the web or
fleece for the hat body. Figure 1, Plate 4, is a Drawing of a machine for
hardening or basoning. The cones X, X, taken from the machine, Figure 1,
Plate 3, when the hat bodies have been formed upon them or other like per-
forated cones with hat bodies upon them or formed upon them, are then used
in the said hardening or basoning machine, in the manner herein-after described,
for the purpose of hardening the hat bodies thereon. The cones X, X, or such
other cones as last mentioned, I call hereafter, for the sake of distinction,
"the hat body cones." Two other perforated metallic cones, of rather larger
size, which, for the sake of distinction, I call " cap cones," are then placed upon
or over the bodies contained upon the hat body cones, so as to confine the bodies
completely between them. The bat bodies, where they join at their bases, are
then cut around to separate them; they are then ready for the next process,
that of hardening or partially felting (commonly called basoning); the bodies
so enclosed between metallic cones are then taken to the machine (Figure 1),
Plate 4, where one pair of the hardening cones only are shewn; but it is
evident any number of the like construction may be combined and operated
by the same moving parts as are here shewn. A and B, Figure 1, Plate 4,
are two hardening cones made either of wood or metal, A having coarser per-
forations than either pair or set of the above cones, which coarser perforations
are made for the admission of steam to the body. One pair or set of cones is
now placed on the cone A by depressing the handle 1 from the pin 2 to the
pin marked 3; the other end of the lever 4, in which it will be seen the axis
of the cone B rests, will cause the cone B to be lifted from the cone A, so as
to place upon the cone A one of the hat bodies included, as before stated,
between two perforated cones; this being done, and by lifting the handle 1,
the cone B is again let down, so as to rest upon the outer cone; steam is then
let up into the cone A by turning the cock 5 (the axis of A being a hollow
steam pipe 6, with a stuffing box at 7); the two cones A and B now
receive an alternating rotatory motion in. the following manner :-Moving two
or three times in one direction and then being reversed, and moving the same
number of times in the opposite way. C is the driving pulley or prime mover,
upon the axis of which is the crank D, connected with the shackle bar E,
secured by the stud F to the wheel G; as the crank D revolves, it will be seen
that the wheel G will alternate through about one-fourth of its circumference.
This alternating motion will be communicated by the band 8 to the pulley H,
upon the axis of which is a bevelled wheel 9, acting upon another bevilled

page_text: wheel 10 upon the axis of the cone B; the cone B resting with its weight
upon the outer cone, immediately under which is the hat body resting upon
the hat body cone placed upon the cone A, will, by its weight and contact,
cause the said several cones and body to revolve, as before described, two or
three times in each direction, which, if continued for a very few minutes, causes
the body between the said perforated cones to be hardened or basoned ready
for the next process to be performed by the machine.
Figures 1, 2, and 3, Plate 5, called the planking machine; Plate 5 contains
a plan and two sections of a machine to be next used for planking, reducing,
or felting hat bodies. A, A, is a frame or stand, on which is placed a trough
containing water slightly impregnated with sulphuric acid, and kept boiling by
a coiled steam pipe, marked C lying at the bottom; D, D, are rollers formed of
a composition of zinc and lead or other suitable metallic substance, each pair
being geered at their ends by pinions E, and the upper roller of each pair
geered into the horizontal worm or screw marked F, by the spur wheels
G, G; O is a guide; H is a larger roller geered into the end rollers D, for the
purpose of turning the hat bodies over, and giving them direction backwards
on the top of the machine after they have been passed successively through
each pair of rollers; L, L, are levers, having the weights M, M, bearing upon
them, suspended to each upper roller for the purpose of giving a slight pressure
to the hat bodies, as the substance of each may require; I is an inclined
board for the purpose of giving the hat bodies, when laid thereon by the work-
man, a direction towards the rollers; K, K, is a fast and loose driving pulley
on the worm shaft F. The machinery being set in motion, and the hat bodies
placed one after another upon the inclined board I, the hat bodies will be
drawn forward, and by keeping the bottom rollers and a portion of the top
rollers immersed in the boiling acid mixture, as shewn by the dotted line, they
will be continually exposed to the action of the same till they come-out at
the farther end, and return on the top of the rollers. to the operator to be
crosed, a term well known to hat manufacturers, and again passed through
the machine as often as may be necessary to render them fit for proofing..
About fifty pair of rollers may be used to advantage. The number of rollers
may be varied in the different machines, according to the substance of the
bodies and the quantum of work or felting required.
Figures 1, 2, and 3, Plate Six, are elevation, plan, and section of a machine
for stiffening or proofing. A is a vessel having two compartments separated by
the division B, and containing a solution of shellac or other substance
commonly used for stiffening or proofing hat bodies; the solution in one
compartment being somewhat stronger than the solution in the other, accord-

page_text: ing to the strength of the stiffening required; C, C, are two rollers, turning
on bearings fixed in the standards D, D, geered together at their extremities
E, E, and turned by the fixed driving pulley F; G, being a loose pulley; H is
a joint to allow the standard D to fall back when required; I is a weight
suspended to the line K, K, running over the pulley L, and fixed at its other
end to the standard D, for the purpose of causing the rollers to press against
each other with sufficient force, that when the rollers are set in motion, and
the body of the hat (being previously soaked in the solution contained in the
box A, and placed in the proper position to be taken by the rollers upwards),
is allowed to be drawn through or between the said rollers, the pressure shall
squeeze out all the superfluous stiffening solution, which will fall down upon
the board M, and thence be conducted back into the same compartment in
which the hat body had been soaked, care being taken to cause the board M,
which works on two pivots, to slope towards the same compartment in which
the hat body had been immersed. The more stiffening there may be required in
the body, the less should be the weight used to compress the rollers.
Figure 1 is a side elevation, Figure 2 a plan, and Figure 3 a transverse
section on Plate 7 of machinery for the purpose of covering hat bodies
(commonly called ruffing or napping, and clearing the nap. A, Figures 1, 2,
and 3, is a water-tight box (the upper part of which is made to open); B,
(Figure 2), the axle of two driving pullies, marked C; D is a strap or band
which communicates motion from the driving pulley C.to the small pullies
E, E, E, fixed upon the hollow axis F of the cones G, through which the
steam is admitted into the said cones from the supply steam pipes H, H.
Figures 1 and 3 are conical riders or rollers revolving. by contact upon the
hollow cones; k, k, is a pipe for conveying hot water from the funnel L,
from which pipe descend the pipes e, e, perpendicularly over the tips. of the
cones, as represented at Figure 3, which pipes are perforated at the bottom,
allowing hot water to drop or run upon the tips of the hat bodies upon the
cones. On each of the said cones G is placed a haircloth in the shape of a
hat body or cap, somewhat larger than the cone, so as to hang from its lower
side, and in this haircloth cap is placed a hot body, having the fur previously
laid upon it and wetted, and being somewhat longer than the haircloth.
Over the hat body, and somewhat larger than it, is placed another haircloth.
Hot water should be poured into the funnel, which will drop or run through
the small perforations in the tubes e, e, upon the hat body; a slow motion is
then given to the cones by applying steam or other power to the driving.
pullies, and which slow motion is continued until the nap has stuck, when the
said cones should be made to revolve quicker, and steam admitted into the

page_text: interior through the pipes H. The hat body, then scalded, should be allowed
to remain upon the cone, revolving and exposed to the steam and the hot
water about twenty minutes, by which time the nap will be sufficiently scalded
in if the operation be conducted with care and attention. The hat body should
be taken off, turned,.and put in again two or three times during the operation.
Several hat bodies may be placed upon each cone, and may be operated upon
at the same time, the steam and hot water being admitted in sufficient quan-.
tities, according to the judgment of the operator. The steam is also again
applied to the interior of the cone, which must now be made to revolve with
greater speed, the effect of the centrifugal force will then be to throw off the
water from the hat body, being also assisted by the steam, when the nap will
be cleared, or in effect raised up in readiness for blocking; or for more
effectually accomplishing this, a conical or cylindrical brush, roller, or rider may
be made to revolve upon the cone, by contact or otherwise, with or without a
reciprocating lateral motion. It will be obvious that although my improve-
ments extend over and are applicable to all the several processes of the hat
manufacture herein-before mentioned, from the process in clearing the fur to
that of napping the finished hat body, and may be all used in one and the
same hat manufactory, yet some of these improvements may be used sepa-
rately, in conjunction with or for the purposes of some of the existing processes
or methods of manufacturing hats; and I claim the same improvements
separately, in manner herein stated, and do claim an exclusive right and
privilege in the same, and in each of them, during the term of the said
Letters Patent. Now whereas, having of necessity described many parts of
the above-mentioned machines which are old, though perhaps some of them
appear in somewhat a new form to accommodate my improvements, I hereby
declare that I only claim as those which constitute my improvements in the
manufacture of hats,-
First, the aforesaid method of clearing fur used in the making of hats or for
napping hats by means of a machine, which I call a blower, containing three
or more pickers, substantially herein-before described.
Second, the aforesaid method of producing a web or fleece of fur upon a
wire apron, and hardening the same by means of rollers, substantially as
herein-before described.
Third, the aforesaid method of forming the aforesaid web into hat bodies on
perforated cones when covered with cloth, and the application of steam to
such web or the hat body while being formed of or from the same, substan-
tially as herein-before described.

page_text: Fourth, the aforesaid method of hardening or basoning of hat bodies, sub-
stantially as herein-before described.
Fifth, of felting or planking by means of the application of a series of
rollers, substantially as herein-before described.
Sixth, of stiffening or proofing, substantially as herein-before described.
Seventh, of covering hat bodies (commonly called ruffing or napping) and
clearing the nap, substantially as herein-before described.
And here it may be necessary to state that I do not claim the machine for
forming hat bodies herein-before described, but only the use of perforated cones
covered with cloth to receive the web or fleece of fur, and the application of
steam to the said web or fleece when the same is being formed into the hat body;
and in respect to the said other machines, and the claims herein-before lastly
stated, it is proper that I should add, that I do not claim the several individual
parts of which the aforesaid machines are composed as new, but such a combina-
tion and arrangement of them, substantially as before described and claimed as
being new, for producing the effects herein-before mentioned. And whereas
it is well known that a very small portion of silk and other non-felting
materials have been used in the substance of hát bodies, and the use of such
Bon-felting materials therein hath chiefly been confined to preventing the too
quick felting of furs or wools used in making the hat bodies, upon or over the
surface of which it is the usual and common practice to put a covering or nap
of fur, or woven plush, or down of silk, cotton, and other materials constituting
the nap of the hat, and such non-felting materials have not been used or
applied in the manufacture of hat bodies for the purpose of procuring from
the body itself (without affixing a nap as is usually done) a full, thick, and
durable nap.
. Now I do claim as a further improvement in the manufacture of hats the
production of such improved substance or texture for hat bodies as herein-
after is described, furnishing from itself a full and durable nap, as herein-after
mentioned, and rendering unnecessary the sticking on of a nap, which is the
common and universal practice. The mode I have found best in practice for
performing my said last-mentioned improvement I describe as follows:-I
take any description of fur or wool of a high felting quality, but I prefer
caroted hares fur, which is well known to hat manufacturers, and I clear the
same from kemps, dirt, and dags, and this I prefer doing by means of my
first-mentioned blowing machine, herein-before described, through which I
pass once the fur to be used; I then take at least one-third, by weight, of non-
felting materials, such as silk or cotton, but I prefer with the caroted bares'

page_text: fur the use of the waste raw silk when heckeled or prepared, an article well
known in commerce. I cut this raw silk into lengths from three-quarters to
one inch in length, which afterwards provides a suitable nap, as herein-after
described, but the nap will be shorter or longer according as the silk may be
cut into long or short lengths. More than one-third of the non-felting
materials may be used without injurious results to the felting of the hat, and
where less than one-third may be used a nap may be procured from the hat
body, although not so full and thick as when one-third of the non-felting
materials shall be used. But, as before stated, I use a third, by weight, of
non-felting materials, and I find that proportion the best adapted for felting
with the fur and afterwards producing a full, thick, and durable nap. When
the silk has been so cut it is mixed thoroughly with the fur so cleared as
before mentioned, which fur, by weight, should be double in quantity to the
non-felting materials. I accomplish this mixing by passing the fur and non-
felting materials through my said blowing machine, and I gather the materials
which have passed through the said machine, and form them into a web, and
subsequently into hat bodies, by means of the second, third, fourth, and fifth
machines herein-before mentioned. After the hat body has been hardened
or basoned, and planked or felted, and before it is stiffened, it should be
examined, and when dry cleared by means of a shaving knife of all kemps
that may be visible, after which it is dipped into boiling hot water, and by
means of a fine small hand card, similar to those used by hatters, the nap is
drawn out or carded up. During this process the hat body should be as
frequently dipped into the hot water as may be found necessary. After the
nap has been sufficiently brought out, which can be easily judged of by the
workman, the hat body when again dried is stiffened and waterproofed. The
process of stiffening and waterproofing I perform by means of my machine
herein-before described. Although I have described the mode of mixing the
silk and fur, and forming the same into a hat body, chiefly having reference
to the use of my said several machines, yet such silk and fur may be mixed
together by other means well known to hat manufacturers, and a substance
or texture for hat bodies may be formed thereof by means of the methods
usually practised at present for making hat bodies, and a nap be brought out
therefrom by similar means to those herein-before described. A hat body of
cheaper materials, and well suited for commerce, can be made of cony wool
and fine cotton mixed in the like proportions of two-thirds of wool to one-
third of cotton, by pursuing with the same a process similar to that which I
have lastly herein-before described, where caroted hares' fur and waste raw

page_text: silk cut into short lengths are used. Other suitable furs and suitable non-
felting materials. may, when prepared and mixed in like proportions, be
similarly formed into hat bodies, out of which a full and durable nap can by
carding be obtained.
Now, having described the mode of performing my last-mentioned improve-
ment, I do not claim any novelty either in the materials used, except as to the
proportions, or in the processes by which hat bodies are usually or by means
of machinery made by hat manufacturers; but I do claim as a further part
of my said Invention agreeably to the above description the production of an
improved substance or texture for hat bodies by means of the use or appli-
cation of a much larger proportion of non-felting materials than has hitherto
been used, viz, a proportion equal to one-third, by weight, of the whole
materials used, and from which substance or texture or from such larger
portion of non-felting materials therein conjointly with the felting materials,
I produce or procure a full and durable pile or nap, and by which means the
necessity of putting on or affixing a nap will be obviated in all cases of hats
made out of the said improved substance or texture. It will be obvious that
although all the several improvements before mentioned are described to take
place in those processes of manufacture of hats which are usually performed
previously to the hat bodies being dyed or made up and shaped for wear, yet
the hatter, according as he thinks fit, will be enabled to form the same hat
bodies into various shapes, sizes, and colours of hats, either with or without
brims, or bonnets, or caps for the use of the public. And such my Invention
of the said several improvements, as herein-before described and claimed, to
the best of my knowledge and belief being entirely new, and never before
used within that part of Her said Majesty's United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland called England, Her said Dominion of Wales, or Town
of Berwick-upon-Tweed, I do hereby declare this to be my Specification of
the same, and I do verily believe this my said Specification doth comply in all
respects fully and without reserve and disguise with the proviso in the said s
herein-before in part recited Letters Patent contained, wherefore I do hereby.
claim to possess and maintain exclusive right and privilege to my said
Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Augustus Wells, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of December, One thousand s
eight hundred and thirty-seven.
HENRY A. WELLS. (L.S.)

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Thirtieth day of December, in
the first year of the reign of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, the said Henry
Augustus Wells came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and
acknowledged the instrument aforesaid, and all and every thing therein
contained and specified, in form above written. And also the instrument
aforesaid was stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made in the
fifty-fifth year of the reign of His late Majesty King George the Third.
Inrolled the Thirtieth day of December, One thousand eight hundred and
thirty-seven.