IMPROVEMENTS APPLICABLE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, ALSO ADAPTABLE FOR MILITARY, POLICE AND OTHER HELMETS.
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Charles Clarkson, of Peckham, in the
County of Surrey, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS APPLICABLE
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, ALSO ADAPTABLE FOR MILITARY,
POLICE AND OTHER HELMETS.
"
Sealed the 2nd June 1876, and dated the 7th December 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Charles
Clarkson at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 7th December 1875.
I, THOMAS CHARLES CLARKSON, of Peckham, in the County of Surrey,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
APPLICABLE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, ALSO ADAPTABLE FOR
MILITARY, POLICE, AND OTHER HELMETS," to be as follows:—
The object of these improvements is to so construct the articles above
named as to give greater strength combined with lightness and resistance
to the weather, also to economize the cost of the article.
With regard to boots and shoes I proceed as follows:-On a mould or
last I stretch leather or other suitable fabric, and over the surface apply

page_text: a waterproof adhesive solution, then to the sides and counter of the
boot or shoe a layer of cork or such like material is applied and rasped
or smoothed off as required; a layer of cork or such like material is
then applied to the sole of the boot or shoe. After this is effected
suitable fabric is adhered over the cork or such like material forming
the sole, sides, and "counter" of the boot or shoe. The sole of cork
covered with said fabric is again coated with waterproof adhesive
solution, and another or middle sole composed of leather or other
suitable material is then applied thereto; the edges of the said sole are
then prepared for the reception of the "upper" or other leather of the
boot or shoe, and adhesive waterproof solution is applied by which the
whole becomes thoroughly secured together; but I prefer for greater
strength and durability to form a ridge or projecting edge which is
represented by the welt in ordinary boots or shoes. The "upper” after
this is effected is drawn over the edge and under the middle sole, and
firmly adhered thereto by the solution. The whole of this is to impart
the shape of the boot or shoe, and to complete same a sole of leather,
wood, or other suitable material duly prepared is then adhered with the
said solution to the whole under surface of the boot or shoe, which when
this is effected is ready for finishing in the ordinary way. The heel is
formed in successive layers secured together by the said solution.
In the case of helmets a similar process to that above described is
adopted. On the mould a fabric or leather is brought over and adhesive
waterproof solution is applied over the surface of said fabric or leather.
Cork or such like material in sections or parts is then applied and
adheres to the fabric or leather by said solution. Care should be taken
that each section overlaps the next, leaving its full thickness, which in
the case of each overlap forms a ridge or rib, giving strength and
durability to the helmet.
In some cases the ridge is smoothed off and wood in strips or other
suitable material duly prepared is applied over the joint for effecting a
like purpose.
Over the cork forming the brim a thin veneer of
prepared wood is applied, and over the whole helmet is placed cloth or
other fabric or chamois leather, as found desirable, and the helmet is
then duly prepared for finishing.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Thomas Charles Olarkson in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 7th June 1876.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
CHARLES CLARKSON, of Peckham, in the County of Surrey, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Seventh day of December, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the
thirty-ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Thomas Charles Clarkson,
Her special licence that I, the said Thomas Charles Clarkson, my exe-
cutors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Thomas Charles Olarkson, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS APPLICABLE IN THE ManufactuRE
OF BOOTS AND SHOES, ALSO ADAPTABLE FOR MILITARY, POLICE, AND OTHER
HELMETS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Thomas
Charles Clarkson, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas Charles Clarkson, do
hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:—
The object of these improvements is to so construct the articles above
named as to give greater strength combined with lightness and resistance
to the weather, and also to economise the cost of the article.
The improvements in manufacturing or making boots and shoes over
the ordinary methods of sewing, pegging, rivetting, or nailing are as

page_text: follows: I take a mould or last and cover over it a prepared canvas or
other cover, I then pull a netted stocking or other cover over the first
named cover. The netted stocking or second named cover I strain
tightly over the first-mentioned cover on the mould, and then coat the said
cover over with india-rubber solution and adhere a thin piece of cork or
soft chamois leather to form what is termed the side lining and counter
to a required thickness; I then adhere thereto a layer of cork to form
the foundation of the sole of the boot or shoe, and after I have shaped
this to the required form by applying my india-rubber adhesive solution
over the said cork, side, and counter adhere thereto either a canvas,
cloth, or thin soft chamois leather to the thickness required. After this
I adhere on the cork and cloth foundation sole a piece of sole or other
leather to form a solid foundation, leaving a projecting edge so as to
allow the outer covering of leather, or cloth, or other cover to fit in the
groove which the said foundation sole forms by overlapping, and to
wrap over the said edge of the before-named foundation sole so that the
said edge of the outer cover closely adheres on to the bottom to about
half an inch all round, more or less. I now have a prepared sole of
leather, or wood, or cork well solutioned over with india-rubber solution
so that it thoroughly adheres and forms the outer sole, I then pare or
rasp the edge either by knife or by machinery, leaving either round or
square edge on the bottom sole.
In preparing the outer soles I use various thicknesses of leather with
alternato layers of thin wood or cork adhered with my india-rubber
solution, by which means I obtain a strong, thick, light, and waterproof
durable sole which is not only preferable to ordinary thick and expensive
leather soles but more durable, and I take care not to allow the wood or
cork to appear or shew at the edges of the sole. In the heel part I use
alternate layers of wood, cork, and leather adhered with india-rubber
solution. The heels or soles can be made as the work progresses, or
made independently of the shoe or boot and adhered to ordinary boots
and shoes if desired. In the shank or bend of the sole I leave this
thinner, and pliant, and elastic, so that in walking all stiffness is
avoided. The leather cover has no oil, nor do the boots and shoes
require any oil to keep them soft and pliant. By this process boots and
shoes can be made at much less cost and more durable than by ordinary
curried leather, having no sewing or nailing, with the exception of the
heels and outside of sole, such process giving an elastic shoe, avoiding
concussion to the body when the foot strikes the ground.

page_text: Military and police and other helmets and caps are similarly made to
the boot or shoe, the only difference being that the one is worn to cover
the feet, the other to cover heads. I take a mould or block the size
and shape to fit the head, I cover the said block with a netted cover
similar to stocking netting, or other cover if preferred, such as cloth or
thin leather. In case of making a helmet, hunting, or round hat or cap,
after I have placed the said cover as before named I adhere partially on
the said cover prior to sticking on the cork thin strips or veneers of
wood on the crown or head part, I do this to give a stiffness and
strength which the softness of the cork would not do. For the police
and military men this gives great protection to the head, I then solution
over the wood and the cover with my solution of india-rubber and
adhere on to the cover or mould a layer of sheet cork cut to the required
thickness.
If the helmet or cap is for a low priced article I do not cover the
mould with a second cover of calico, but adhere on the cork or mould at
certain distances narrow strips of pliant wood or compressed cork over
the vertical joinings of the cork, so that when the outside cover is
adhered on these strips give not only a pleasing effect but great strength
and resistance to a force which otherwise would leave the head of the
wearer exposed to injury. For a better class helmet however prior to
the outside cover being put on, I adhere a calico cover over the whole of
said strips and cork. The head part being now formed or made and
fitted closely to the mould before removal I place it on what is called
the brim frame to form the brim, having a cover of chamois leather or
cloth covered all over and nailed or otherwise secured to the shape of
the frame. This covering forms the under side of the brim when the
helmet is finished. Care must be taken in fitting on this under cover
as it gives the shape of the brim required, a sheet or layer of cork is
then adhered on to above-named covering, a thin veneer of wood is also
adhered either upon the cork or on the covering prior to the cork being
adhered. The cork being naturally soft and flexible requires a per-
manent stiffening to keep it in shape. After the head part is secured to
the brim and the external covering is adhered over all, the same is
complete and is to be removed from the mould, the under cover over the
brim is now cut out, leaving about half or three-quarters of an inch to
turn in to the inside of the helmet which gives security and strength to
the brim and body. I now adhere strips of thick felt, or what is known
by the name of "numna" about to of an inch wide, 3 inches long,

page_text: and about 2 to 3 inches apart round the inside of the head; I then
having prepared a head lining of a thin sheet of cork about 2 to 3
inches wide and covered with thin leather sufficiently long to form the
inside head leather, adhere the same on the strips of thick felt or
"numna
" enclosed in leather or other covering, which not only gives
ventilation but allows of the expansion and contraction of the head,
thus removing the difficulty of fitting the various sizes of heads.
My improved lining above described may be adapted and used in
ordinary hats or helmets.
In order to render helmets or head gear useful in all climates and 1
weathers I make an opening in the head part of head dress, so that if
required a slide or curtain can be drawn out over the eyes in case of
dusty roads, or across a desert or sandy country, and also to allow a
curtain or slide to draw over the neck or side of the face, having an
elastic spring inlaid in the brim to draw up the curtain when not
required.
66
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed or
carried out in practice, I declare that I claim the said Invention of
'Improvements Applicable in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, also a
Adaptable for Military, Police, and other Helmets," substantially as the
same is herein-before set forth and described, that is to say, an Inven-
tion in which the following important points are embodied in a practical
and effectual manner, as hercin-before described, viz. :-
1. The use of a foundation sole, such as herein-before described, which a
projects and forms a groove for the outer leather so as to prevent the
sole being opened or the edge opening to admit water.
2. Laying in manner described alternately chamois leather, felt, or
cloth with the cork.
3. Adhering with india-rubber solution, as described, various thick-
nesses of leather, wood, or compressed cork in the soles and heels.
4. The use, as described, of a first internal lining not thoroughly
adhered, whereby the exhalation arising from the foot is not condensed
in a damp moisture as in all ordinary waterproof articles used in ordinary
wear

page_text: 5. The use of the thin veneer on the brim, also the vertical strips of
veneer, as described, on the crown part of the head of helmets, caps, or
hats; also the felt, cloth, or numna between the head leather and
body of the helmet, cap, or hat, as described.
66
"
6. The use and adoption, when desired, of an opening in the head
part of the head dress, so that if required a slide or curtain can be
drawn out over the eyes, as described, and also so as to allow a curtain
or slide to be drawn out over the neck or side of the face, as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Charles Clarkson, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Seventh day of June, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
six.