IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STUDS, BUTTONS, BROOCHES, BRACE- LETS, EAR-RINGS, BASKETS, VASES, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES AND FASTENINGS
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund, of Chandos,
Street, St. Martin's, in the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STUDS, BUTTONS, BROOCHES, BRACE-
LETS, EAR-RINGS, BASKETS, VASES, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES AND
FASTENINGS
Sealed the 23rd May 1865, and dated the 26th November 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Laurentius Andreas
Waldemar Lund at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
his Petition, on the 26th November 1864.
I, LAURENTIUS ANDREAS WALDEMAR LUND, of Chandos Street, St. Martin's,
in the County of Middlesex,do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STUDS, BUTTONS, BROOCHES, BRACELETS,
EAR-RINGS, BASKETS, VASES, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES AND FASTENINGS,"
to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture of studs,
buttons, sleeve links, brooches, bracelets, ear-rings, and other similar articles
or fastenings, which may be composed of ivory and gold, or silver, and enainel
precious stones, or of bone or ebony, or other hard wood or nut, tortoise
shell, pearl or vegetable ivory and gold or silver.
Among such articles may be mentioned rings for table napkins, shawl pins,
with large heads, handles of paper knives, rings or clasps for neckties, ribbons
[Price 8d.]

page_text: Babes gens e pins, TOCkets for likenesses, and ladies orna-
mental crosses.
So also the Invention may be applied to the formation and ornamenting
scrolls, leaves, and flowers of ivory, or one of the other materials above
mentioned with gold or silver, enamel or stones, for the purpose of attachment
to porcelain, glass, or other object, also to ornamental basket work, and to the
covering of toilet bottles with bands or network of ivory, or ivory and gold, or
silver.
.
Now in the manufacture of such fastenings as studs, sleeve links and buttons,
of ivory or other substance, I propose to apply a surface or thin plating of gold
or silver to the exposed portion of the article,as follows:-The surface of the
ivory to be covered is formed of the desired shape or outline, either hemi-
spherical or oval, or otherwise, and the plate of gold or silver is made to fit
accurately over or upon such shape, but in to attach the gold or silver to the
article I fasten a rivet to the interior or concave surface of the metal by means
of solder, and pass the rivet through the stem and back of the stud, after which
I enlarge the rivet by tapping it so as to form a burr or enlargement and thus
secure the rivet from becoming loose. Or the rivet may have a screw thread
cut on its extremity so as to screw it into the back of the stud.
In making buttoms or sleeve links the rivet must be double and soldered at
both ends, and sufficiently long that its ends may be bent into a ring or eye for
attachment to a garment, or to the link chain of the sleeve link.
In ornamenting ear-rings I form a plate of gold or silver of the proper shape
to cover half the car-ring, that is to say, to cover it on or down one side
the exterior or more exposed side by preference; then by soldering and rivet-
ting the plate will be secured as before.
It will be observed that I almost dispense with the use of wax, shellac, or
other soft or adhesive materials, except in the cavity for the solder, and
slightly over the surface of the article, and apply the gold or silver plate
very closely upon the hard unyielding surface of the article, so that I am
enabled to press upon the gold with a graver and chase a pattern thereon,
without indenting the metal.
Ivory or other paper knives, aud rings and clasps of all kinds whether for
table napkins or for finger rings, or for securing neckties, may be similarly
ornamented. Lockets may be composed of ivory or other material mentioned,
and may be covered with gold or silver surfaces or plates in the same manner;
enamel and precious stones may be applied to the articles by means of rivets,
either in conjunction with or separately from the gold or silver.
In manufacturing certain objects of ivory, tortoise shell, bone, such as

page_text: baskets, and the coverings for toilet bottles, as well as the rings and clasps,
it is necessary to bend and retain the ivory or other substance in the proper
circular or curved position.
The ivory differs very much in its nature and requires to be treated with.
different acids to enable it to be bent, thus green ivory is more difficult to
treat than white or soft ivory.
I first immerse the ivory in a cold acid, such as acetic acid, white wine
vinegar, pyroligneous acid, or dilute hydrochloric acid, or any other acid which
will act upon or dissolve or soften to a certain extent the earthly constituents
of animal ivory or bone; after it has been sufficiently long acted upon as to
dissolve or soften some portion of the lime and other earthy matter without
destroying the grain of the ivory it will be found that the ivory may be bent
to the desired form. I then place it in hot water, the ivory being first tied
in position, in order to set it; I then place the ivory in cold water, and
ultimately dry it in hot sawdust.
In this manner bracelets of ivory may be made and ornamented with
gold, silver, or stones, or enamel. They may be placed on the wrist by
forcing them more open, and then allowing them to spring back to their
proper size, in the same way as the spring metal bracelets.
In many cases such as in making studs, I dispense with rivets and spin
the metal around and under the edges of the domed stud or button.
The bent slips of ivory are applicable for basket work, they are interlaced
together and where necessary fastened by rivets
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 26th May 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, LAURENTICS
ANDREAS WALDEMAR LUND; of Chandos Street, St. Martin's, in the County
of Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund, Her special licence
that I, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund, my executors, ad-
ministrators, and assigns, or such others as the said Laurentius Andreas

page_text: Waldemar Lund, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF STUDS, BUTTONS, BROOCHES, BRACELETS, EAR-RINGS, BASKETS,
VASES, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES AND FASTENINGS," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund.
do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
This Inventionıelates to certain improvements in the manufacture ofstuds,
buttons, sleeve-links, brooches, bracelets, ear-rings, baskets, vases, coverings
of smelling bottles, and other similar articles and fastenings, which may be
composed of ivory and gold or silver, and enamel or precious stones, or of
bone or ebony, or other hard wood or nut, tortoise shell, pearl, horn, vulcanized
india-rubber, or vegetable ivory and gold, silver, or gilt and plated metal.
Among such articles may be mentioned rings for table napkins, shawl
pins with large heads, handles of paper knives, rings or clasps for neck-ties,
ribbons, or sashes, finger rings, neck-tie pins, lockets for likenesses, and
ladies' ornamental crosses.
So, also, the Invention may be applied to the formation and ornamenting
scrolls, leaves, and flowers of ivory or one of the other materials above
mentioned with gold or silver, enamel or stones, for the purpose of attach-
ment to porcelain, glass, or other object; also to ornamental basket work,
and to the covering of toilet bottles with bands or network of ivory, or ivory
and gold, silver, or gilt or plated metal.
Now, in the manufacture of such fastenings as studs, sleeve links, and
buttons of ivory or other substance, I apply a surface or thin plating of gold
or silver to the exposed portion of the article, as follows:-The surface of the
ivory or other material to be covered is formed of the desired shape or outline,
either hemispherical, or oval, or otherwise, and the plate of gold or silver is

page_text: made to fit accurately over or upon such shape; but in order to attach the
gold or silver, or other metal mentioned to the article, I fasten a rivet to
the interior or concave surface of the metal by means of solder, and pass
the rivet through the stem and back of the stud, after which I enlarge the
rivet by tapping it so as to form a burr or enlargement, and thus secure
the rivet from becoming loose. Or the rivet may have a screw thread cut
on its extremity, so as to screw it into the back of the stud.
In making buttons or sleeve links, the rivet must be double and soldered
at both ends, and sufficiently long that its end may be bent into a ring or
eye for attachment to a garment, or to the link chain of the sleeve link.
In ornamenting ear-rings or brooches for ladies' bonnets I form a plate
of gold or silver of the proper shape to cover half the ear-ring, that is to
say, to cover it on or down one side, the exterior or more exposed side by
preference, then, by soldering and riveting the plate will be secured as
before. I also manufacture ear-rings by steeping the Indian or other ivory
in dilute phosphoric acid to soften it, and then press it in a mould by a
screw press, so as to emboss it with a pattern.
It will be observed that I almost dispense with the use of wax, shellac,
or other soft or adhesive materials, except in the cavity for the solder and
slightly over the surface of the article, and apply the gold or silver plate
very closely upon the hard unyielding surface of the article, so that I am
enabled to press upon the gold with a graver, and chase a pattern thereon
without indenting the metal.
Ivory or other paper knives, and rings and clasps of all kinds, whether
for table napkins, or for finger rings, or for securing neck-ties may be
similarly ornamented. Lockets may be composed of ivory or other material
mentioned, and may be covered with gold, or silver, or gilt or plated metal
surfaces or plates in the same manner. Enamel and precious stones may
be applied to the articles by means of rivets, either in conjunction with or
separately from the gold or silver.
In manufacturing certain objects of ivory, such as baskets, vases, cruet
stands, gauntlets for ladies, coverings for toilet bottles, as well as the rings
and clasps, it is necessary to bend and retain the ivory in the proper
circular or curved position.
The ivory differs very much in its nature, and requires to be treated with
different acids, to enable it to be bent; thus green ivory is more difficult to
treat than white or soft ivory.
I first immerse the ivory in water or diluted acid, such as acetic acid, white
wine vinegar, pyroligneous acid, phosphoric acid, orany other acid which will

page_text: act upon or dissolve or soften to a certain extent the earthy constituents of
animal ivory or bone; after it has been sufficiently long acted upon as to
dissolve or soften some portion of the lime and other earthy matter without
destroying the grain of the ivory, it will be found that the ivory may be bent
to the desired form. I then place it in hot water or hot sand, the ivory being
first tied or set in position, in order to set it; I then place the ivory in cold
water, and ultimately dry it in hot sawdust. In this manner bracelets of
ivory may be made and ornamented with gold, silver, or gilt or plated metal,
or stones or enainel. They may be placed on the wrists by forcing them more
open, and then allowing them to spring back to their proper size, in the
same way as the spring metal bracelets, or by clasps or other fastenings.
In many cases, such as in making studs, or buttons, or other such like
articles, I dispense with rivets, and spin or burnish the metal around and
under the edges of the articles.
The bent slips of ivory are applicable for basketwork; they are interlaced
together, and, where necessary, fastened by rivets.
I construct baskets or vases to contain needlework, or flowers, or other
articles as follows:-I first cut the ivory into slips of the desired section, and
steep them in cold water, in order to allow of their being bent to the required
curves to suit the form of the vase or basket; I then form rings or discs of
ivory or wood with holes bored near their periphery, these rings or discs are
of such size as to suit the points of retrogression of the curves of the ivory
slips. I then pass the slips through the successive rings, and secure thein
by rivets or otherwise, the bottom plate or disc of the article may be of ivory
or other material, and the top ring or ledge of the vase or basket may be
ivory or ebony, ornamented with gold, silver, or plated or gilt metal.
The slips may be arranged in a lattice or wickerwork form, in the latter
case the bottom disc or stand is to be perforated with holes to receive vertical
stems of ivory, and the flexible slips are then to be interlaced around and
between the stems after the manner of basket or wicker work..
In other cases I apply around the curved vertical slips of a vase a series
of interlacings or bindings of flexible ivory, or gold or silver, or other wire
to strengthen and ornament the article, and ultimately I apply a shield or
other device, on which a crest or design may be engraved, such shield or
device may be secured to the vase by rivets or other fastenings.
Where the vase is required to contain flowers in water, the bowl, instead of
being open work, is made in one piece of ivory or ebony, ornamented with
leaves or flowers of gold, silver, or other metal secured by rivets; or the
leaves or flowers or other design may be made of ivory on an ebony ground;

page_text: or the spaces between the ornamental covering may be filled up with silver'
gold or other metal where ivory ornamentation is applied, and vice versa.
Any hard wood may be used for the bowl if it is to be entirely covered with
gold, silver, or other metal and ivory ornamentation. Or I construct the vase
of open work, the bowl being a hemispherical curve, so as to contain a glass
or metal bowl of water. In all cases the rings, especially the top or rim,
may be covered with gold or silver, or plated or gilt metal chased and
ornamented. In the manufacture of ivory inkstands the ivory, where most
exposed to risk of stains from the ink, should be dyed black; the construction
is either lattice or wicker work.
Another form of construction for the above articles is to apply between the
stand or disc and the upper ring or rings (perforated as described) the slips of
ivory crossed or in a lattice work form, each point of intersection or crossing
being secured by their insertion through small ivory or other rings, thus
forming a tasteful and ornamental article. In forming cruet stands, I prefer
the wicker work,byinterlacing the ivory slips horizontally between the vertical
stems, the bottom disc or plate being ornamented with metal, if desired, and
set on legs or spherical stands of ivory, ebony, or metal. The top ring or
ledge of the stand should be covered with metallic ornamentation to preserve
it from stains. The divisions are easily formed, and the handle may be made
of ivory carved with a serpent's head, and bent, curled, or twisted so as to
form thickness for grasping by the hand; of course the handle may be of other
suitable device, or it may be of metal or ebony, and ornamented as desired.
The coverings of the cruets consist of basket work of ivory, as before described..
In addition to the flexible or spring bracelets of ivory, I apply in some cases
ornaments of gold, silver, plated, or gilt metal, with or without enamel and
precious stones. Various methods of attachment may be adopted; in some
cases rivets may be used; in others, where metallic ornamentation is applied,
the ivory may be cut or stamped with an embossed pattern, and the metal
burnished or spun thereon. Where it is desired to chase or engrave the
metal, it is advisable to solder a thin plate of metal underneath the outer or
exposed surface, in order to protect it from the pressure of the graver.
By the foregoing description the nature and object of my Invention will be
clearly understood, for instead of constructing works in ivory in combination
with other materials by carving out the articles from the solid to shew the
article and design in relief, as has hitherto been practised, I stamp, press,
emboss, cut, and build up the articles of separate pieces as described, whereby
I can produce articles of all kinds of fancy work in ivory, (in combination or

page_text: not with other materials,) of any size, and of devices impossible to be produced
by carving out of a solid piece of ivory, for in such process the size is
necessarily limited, and the price enormous.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, by giving some few examples of the
manufacture, I would remark that I do not limit myself to the production of
those articles only which I have mentioned, as it is obvious that numerous
other articles of utility or fancy work may be constructed of ivory and the
other materials stated, upon the principles enumerated herein; I therefore
claim, and desire to be secured to me by the herein in part recited Letters
Patent, the improvements in the manufacture of studs, buttons, brooches,
bracelets, ear-rings, baskets, vases, and other such like fancy or useful
articles and fastenings, substantially as herein specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-sixth day of May, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
ALEXR. PRINCE,
Office for Patents,
4, Trafalgar Square,
Charing Cross.
L. A. WALDEMAR LUND. (L.S.)