IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TERRY OR CUT PILE FABRICS, AND IN THE APPLICATION OF SUCH FABRICS TO THE MANUFACTURE OR SLIPPERS, SHOES, BAGS, AND OTHER SHAPED ARTICLES
Year: 1870

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Archibald Turner, of Leicester, in the County of
Leicester, Elastic Fabric Manufacturer, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TERRY OR CUT PILE FABRICS, AND
IN THE APPLICATION OF SUCH FABRICS TO THE MANUFACTURE OR SLIPPERS,
SHOES, BAGS, AND OTHER SHAPED ARTICLES."
Sealed the 28th February 1871, and dated the 22nd October 1870.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Archibald Turner at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 22nd October 1870.
I, ARCHIBALD TURNER, of Leicester, in the County of Leicester,
Elastic Fabric Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TERRY OR CUT PILE
FABRICS, AND IN THE APPLICATION OF SUCH FABRICS TO THE MANUFACTURE OF
SLIPPERS, SHOES, BAGS, AND OTHER SHAPED ARTICLES," to be as follows:-
Shoes and slippers, the coverings for seats of chairs, foot stools, and
other stools, and also travelling bags have heretofore been sometimes

page_text: made from carpet fabrics such as ordinary Brussels carpet, but in making
up such articles from ordinary carpet fabrics it has been found necessary
to shear off the terry at those parts where the pieces of fabric are joined
together or connected to any other material (such as leather) to form the
intended article; this causes a waste of material and also weakens
the fabric as those points and at the same time produces an inferior
article.
The object of the present Invention is to manufacture a fabric specially
adapted for the purpose of producing shaped articles of various kinds
such as those above mentioned. To this end I propose to weave a plain
terry or cut pile fabric in a jacquard machine arranged to raise the terry
only at such parts of the fabric as will be required to form the shape for
the intended article, the terry warp threads being left down at the other
parts so as to form a good strong firm groundwork for all the seams or
junctions of the articles. I prefer to weave the fabric in a plain colour
(say white, for instance,) and afterwards to print a pattern thereon in any
suitable or convenient manner. As the terry will only be raised at those
parts which will form the exterior of the article to be produced I design
the pattern accordingly. For instance (say, for a travelling bag,) those
parts which form the sides may be ornamented with a pattern designed
expressly with a border or edging and a centre suitable for the intended
article. The other parts of the bag (such as the gussets or ends) may be
printed with a pattern designed expressly to correspond to the form of
those parts. In this manner a fabric with patterns suitably designed to
correspond to the form or shape of the intended article may be made,
and when cut up into the proper shape may be used for the seats and
other parts of chairs, music stools, ottomans, foot stools, hassocks, cushions,
carpet bags, pillows, shoes, slippers, and other shaped articles. When
the terry or cut pile fabric has been printed and steamed to fix the colour,
and subsequently cleaned and brushed to remove the gummy matters
used in the printing process, the fabrio may be exposed to jets of steam for
the purpose of raising the pile and softening the fabric, and then sheared
in order to remove all the loose fibres, and thus give a clean finished
appearance to the fabric which may then be cut up and converted into the
articles required as already mentioned.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Archibald Turner in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 22nd April 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ARCHIBALD
TURNER, of Leicester, in the County of Leicester, Elastic Fabric Manu-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-second day of October, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy, in the thirty-
fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Archibald Turner, Her special licence
that I, the said Archibald Turner, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Archibald Turner, my exccutors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF TERRY OR, CUT PILE FABRICS, AND IN THE APPLICATION OF SUCH FABRICS
TO THE MANUFACTURE OF SLIPPERS, SHOES, BAGS, AND OTHER SHAPED ARTICLES,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Archibald Turner,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Archibald Turner, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawing hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is
to say):
1
Shoes and slippers, the coverings for seats of chairs, foot stools, and
other stools, and also travelling bags and other shaped. articles have
heretofore been sometimes made from carpet fabrics such as ordinary

page_text: Brussels carpet, but in making up such articles from ordinary carpet
fabrics it has usually been found desirable to shear off the terry at those
parts where the pieces of fabric are joined together or connected to any
other material (such as leather) to form the intended article; this causes
a waste of material and also weakens the fabric at those points, and at
the same time produces an inferior article.
The object of the present Invention is to manufacture a fabric specially
adapted for the purpose of producing shaped articles of various kinds
such as those above mentioned, or other articles which may be covered
with a terry or carpet fabric. To this end I propose to weave a plain
terry or cut pile fabric in a jacquard machine arranged to raise the terry
only at such parts of the fabric as will be required to form the shape for
the intended article, the terry warp threads being left down at the other
parts so as to form a good strong firm groundwork for all the seams or
junctions of the article.
In the accompanying Drawing Fig. 1 is a diagram of a piece of terry.
fabric woven in this manner, and is shaped to. form carpet slippers, but
the seats of chairs, music stools, foot stools, bags, or other articles may be,
made in the same manner.
The parts a, a, are those in which the terry or pile is formed throughout
the shape of the intended article; b, b, are the parts in which the warp,
threads are left down to form a solid ground and therefore no terry is
formed thereon. I prefer to weave the fabric in a plain color (say white,
for instance,) and afterwards to print a pattern thereon in any suitable or
convenient manner; or, if desired, the warp threads to. form the terry
may be printed in the usual way of producing what is known as tapestry
carpets.
As the terry in any case will only be raised at those parts a, a, which
will form the shape of the article to be produced I design the pattern
accordingly, for instance, (say, for a travelling bag,) those parts which
form the sides may be ornamented with a pattern designed expressly with
a border or edging, and a figure or medallion suitable for the intended
article may be printed in the centre. The other parts of the bag (such
as the gussets or ends) may be printed with a plain colour or with a
pattern designed expressly to correspond to the form of those parts. In:
this manner a fabric with patterns suitably designed to correspond to the
form or shape of the intended article may be made, and when cut up
into the proper shape may be used for the seats and other parts of chairs,

page_text: music stools, ottomans, foot stools, hassocks, cushions,, carpet bags,,
pillows, shoes, slippers, and other shaped articles..
When the desired pattern on the terry or cut pile fabric has been
produced by printing the fabric must be steamed to fix the color, and
then subsequently cleaned and brushed to remove the gummy matters.
used in the printing process. The fabric may then be exposed to jets of
steam for the purpose of raising the pile, and softening the fabric, and
then sheared in order to remove all the loose fibres, and thus give a
clean finished appearance to the fabric, which may then be cut up and
converted into the articles required as already mentioned. The parts b, b,
of the fabric being solid plain cloth the seams or joints will be neat
and not thick, and the terry loops near the edge will not be liable to
ravel out.
Having now described my Invention, and having explained the
manner of carrying the same into effect, I claim as the Invention
secured to me by Letters Patent, as aforesaid,―
First. Weaving shaped articles of various kinds and forms in terry or
cut pile fabrics by means of jacquard machinery, as herein set forth.
I further claim printing patterns or designs on shaped articles made
in terry or cut pile fabrics, as and for the purposes herein set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Archibald Turner, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, the Twentieth day of April, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one.