IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVET. OR VELVETEEN
Year: 1884

page_text: I RICHARD SCOTT COLLINGE of the firm of James Collinge and Sons of Com-
mercial Mill Oldham in the County of Lancaster Manufacturers, do hereby declaro
the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVET.
OR VELVETEEN to be as follows:-
-
The object of this invention is to manufacture velvet or velveteen with a twilled,
back with a tie up having eighteen picks to the round, if the velvet or velveteen is
to be made with a pile floating over nine warp threads, or having 15 weft picks to
the round if a seven float pile is required; the binding picks being so arranged
that there are no warp floats on the back of the cloth longer than eleven warp
threads in the first instance, or nine warp threads in the latter and hence the
twilled back is closer and firmer than hitherto.
In the modification for a nine float pile the eighteen weft picks are interwoven.
with 30 warp threads, the first, seventh and thirteenth weft picks being binding
picks with five weft pile floats between each two. The binding picks pass under
two warp threads and over one alternately. The face or pile picks are ordinary
nine-float picks arranged in a regular twill form. This can be varied by altering
the number of face picks between the binders either in a regular or irregular manner
so long as the regular twill form is preserved.
In the modification for a seven float pile, there are fifteen picks to the round
interwoven with twenty four warp threads.
The first, sixth, and eleventh weft picks are binding or back picks.
There are four face or pile picks only between each two binders and these are
arranged in a regular twill as before, but the pile picks may be varied as above
mentioned.
Either of the above arrangements can be adapted to weave a fast pile velvet by
binding each float with three threads instead of one and making each float two
threads shorter.
GEORGE DAVIES,
Agent for the Applicant,
4, St. Aun's Square, Manchester.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
I RICHARD SCOTT COLLINGE of the firm of James Collinge and Sons of
Commercial Mills Oldham in the County of Lancaster Manufacturers do hereby
declare the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
VELVET OR VELVETEEN" and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The object of this invention is to manufacture velvet or velveteen with a twilled
back with a tie up having eighteen picks to the round if the velvet or velveteen is
to be made with a pile floating over nine warp threads or having fifteen weft picks
to the round if a seven float is required; the binding picks being so arranged that
there are no warp floats on the back of the cloth longer than eleven warp threads
in the first instance, or nine warp threads in the latter, and hence the twilled back
is closer and firmer than hitherto.
In the annexed diagrams N° 1 is the weaver's draught (in full) of my improved
tie-up for weaving a twilled back velvet or velveteen with a pile floating over nine
ends; the horizontal lines representing the warp threads and the vertical lines are
the weft picks; the crosses denoting where the warp threads are raised up to allow
the weft picks to pass beneath them.
In this diagram No 1. there are eighteen weft picks to the round, interwoven
with thirty warp threads: the first, seventh and thirteenth weft picks being
binding picks, with five weft pile floats between each two. The binding picks pass
under two warp threads and over one alternately N° 2. diagram is No 1. condensed
showing how the thirty warp threads are drawn into eighteen shafts, half of the
warp being drawn in the three front healds. The second, eighth, fourteenth,
twentieth and twenty sixth warp threads are drawn into the front heald.
The fourth, tenth, sixteenth, twenty second twenty eighth warp threads into the
second heald.
The sixth, twelfth, eighteenth, twenty fourth, and thirtieth into the third heald.
And the odd numbers one, three five, and so on to twenty nine are drawn in
regular succession through the fifteen remaining healds, one in each.
The first weft pick is a binder or back pick and passes under two over one,
under two, over one and so on.
The seventh weft pick (the second binder) passes under one over one, under two
over one, under two over one, and so on.
The thirteenth weft pick (the third binder) passes over one under two, over one
under two and so forth.
The face or pile picks are ordinary nine-float picks arranged in a regular twill
form as seen on the diagram. This diagram can be varied by altering the number
of face picks between the binders either in a regular or irregular manner so long as
the regular twill form is preserved.
No 3 diagram is the same arrangement modified so as to produce a pile float over
seven warp threads only.
In this modification there are fifteen picks to the round interwoven with twenty
four warp threads.
The first, sixth, and eleventh weft picks are binding or back picks, and are the
same as the first seventh, and thirteenth in diagram N° 1.

page_text: There are four face or pile picks only between each two binders, and these are
arranged in a regular twill as in N° 1.
No 4. diagram is N° 3. condensed, showing how the warp threads are drawn into
fifteen shafts or healds the order of drawing-in from the first to the twenty fourth
being precisely the same as in the former case, leaving out the last six threads.
Either of the above diagrams (N° 1 or 3) can be adapted to weave a fast pile
velvet or velveteen by binding each float with three threads instead of one, and
making each float two threads shorter.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
The manufacture of velvet or velveteen in the manner and according to the
weavers draughts or "tie ups" herein before described and illustrated by the
diagrams annexed whereby a velvet or velveteen with a twilled back is produced,
having shorter floats of warp threads on the back than hitherto; and consequently
a closer and firmer back.