Improved Method of Making Variegated Jacquard Double Pile Fabrics and Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Dec., 1897-Accepted, 5th Mar., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of Making Variegated Jacquard Double Pile
Fabrics and Apparatus therefor.
I, MORITZ SEYFFARDT, of 42, Nordwall, Crefeld, in the Empire of Germany,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
This invention has for its object an improved method of making variegated or
fancy pattern Jacquard double pile fabrics by the use of an open shed Jacquard
machine having only a single shuttle and undivided or single harness, the pile
material being equally distributed both goods, and such
pile being formed that any subsequent cutting or shearing of the same is un-
necessary, the invention having further for its object an improved Jacquard machine
necessary for carrying out this method of manufacture.
over
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In order to allow of the invention being more easily and clearly understood,
the improved Jacquard machine will first be described which in the accompanying
drawings is shown in Figure 1 in side elevation.
The knife box or griffe a which has a guide bar f has its point of repose at c and.
may be raised up to a, and is contained with a grid or bottom board d in a common
frame b. The bottom board d which has its point of repose at e may be raised.
to z and is guided by bars g and receives an up and down movement by a lever
mechanism pivotting on a pin 7 and a rod or link o whilst the movement of the
griffe is effected by means of a lever mechanism h and i pivotting on a pin 5 and
a rod or link k. The action of the card prism is obtained by means of a lever.
mechanism and s pivotting on a pin 6 and a rod or link y.
7°
In this improved machine which works only with open shed and undivided or
single harness, both the griffe a and also the bottom board d are used for raising.
the pile threads contained in the under shed into the upper shed, thus the bottom
board assists the action of the griffe. The method of making the goods and also-
the movement of the griffe and bottom board may be explained as follows, with
reference to the accompanying drawings:
Figures 2 to 5 are diagrams showing various positions of the knife box or griffe
and the bottom board during the period in which two foundation and two stitch
picks are made and also the formation of the shed which is then completed.
Thus a four body fabric forms the foundation in which for instance the hook 1
moves red pile threads, 2 green, 3 blue, and 4 yellow, and in which the pile threads
of the hooks 1 and 2 are bound in the upper fabric, and the pile threads of the
hooks 3 and 4 are bound in the undergoods if they are not intended to form pile.
Figure 6 shows the position and movements of the pile and foundation warp
threads for the same period of working in order to show that as contrasted with
previous processes they do not cross.
The pile warp threads are indicated by 1 to 4 and the foundation warp threads.
by 8, 9, 10 and 11.
In Figure 2 the griffe and bottom board stand in their lowest position, all the

page_text: pile threads are in the under shed, a foundation pick Go is made for the upper
goods.
use.
In Figure 3 the griffe has risen after one card has previously been brought into
The pile threads of the hooks 1 and 2 for which the card has a hole are
drawn into the upper shed, a stitching pick So is made for the upper goods. The
pile threads 2 should also appear in the pile and are therefore stitched into the
upper goods whilst the pile threads 1 as belonging to the upper goods must return
to the same.
In Figure 4 the bottom board has also risen and has brought the hooks 3 and 4
with their pile threads, which previously stood in the under shed, also into the 1
upper shed. A foundation pick Gu for the under goods is then made. Between
Figures 3 and 4 no action of the card prism takes place..
In Figure 5 the bottom board again descends after a card has been previously
brought into play. Assuming that at this place the pile thread 1 appears in the
pile, then the card must have a hole for the hook 2 which remains in the upper 1
shed, whilst the hooks 3 and 4 descend into the under shed with those of the pile
warp threads which are to appear in the pile, that is to say in this case 1. A stitch-
ing pick Su is made in the under goods and by means of the same the pile warp.
thread 1 is stitched firmly into the under goods. After this has been done the
griffe again descends, the pile warp thread 2 descends into the under shed, and a 2
foundation pick G o¹ is made in the upper goods. Between Figures 5 and 2 there
is again no action of the card prism.
་ ་
As may be seen in Figure 6 the pile warp thread of So stitched in the under
goods has passed to Su and from there has travelled an equal course to S o¹ so
that it yields in the fabric the appearance shown in Figure 7. If the pile formed 2
be cut along the line AB it will be found that the parts D and E of the nap or
pile are of equal length, or in other words that an even pile.is produced and any.
subsequent shearing or trimming such as must be done in the processes at present
employed, is no longer necessary. This advantage is of peculiar importance in
the case of expensive pile material.
As may be seen in Figure 6 the movements of the pile and foundation warp-
threads are always parallel by which means crossings are avoided. and an equal
tension, of the pile threads is attained which also assists in the formation of an
even pile.
3
The foundation binding may if desired be increased by a filling warp but this 3
has no action on the proportions of the pile threads.
x
1
The movements of the griffe and bottom board may take place in any other
order than hereinbefore described and the order of succession of the picks may be
varied according to the pattern or kind of goods to be made."
f
Having now particularly described: and ascertained the nature of my said, 4
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what,
I claim is:
:
1.. A method of making variegated or fancy pattern Jacquard double pile fabrics
characterised by the pile. threads which bind in the upper goods and only 'the
pile forming threads, of those binding in the under goods, being raised for the
stitching pick of the upper goods, and by the remaining pile threads being then
raised for the following foundation pick of the under goods, there being then
moved downwards for the stitching pick of the under goods the pile threads which
bind in the under goods and the pile forming threads only of those binding in the
upper goods, and these being then followed; downwards by all the other pile threads
for the foundation pick of the upper goods; with 'the' object' of producing with a
single shed and undivided harness two completely equivalent goods with an even.
height of pile and of reducing to a minimum the crossings of the threads, sub-
stantially as hereinbefore described.
2. For carrying out the herein described method of making variegated or fancy a
pattern Jacquard double pile fabrics, a double lift open shed Jacquard machine

page_text: characterised by only one movable griffe and bottom board, the movements of
which are however entirely independent one of another, substantially as herein-
before described.
Dated this 15th day of December 1897
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Of 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, Agents for the Applicant.