IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES TO BE USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Frederick Leonardt, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Merchant, and Alfred Christmas Andrews, of the same Place,
Machinist, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES TO BE
USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND OTHER PURPOSES."
Dealed the 25th January 1878, and dated the 27th July 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Frederick Leonardt and
Alfred Christmas Andrews at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on
the 27th July 1877.
FREDERICK LEONARDT, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Merchant, and
ALFRED CHRISTMAS ANDREWS, of the same Place, Machinist. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES TO BE USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND OTHER
PURPOSES."
The object of this Invention is so to construct a sewing machine that it will use
a clean thread on both the shuttle and the needle, and to apply hard or liquid wax
to the said thread during the operation of sewing.
Our improved machine is constructed (as to its arrangement of levers and cams
to obtain the required motion) for the most part similar to an ordinary heavy
sewing machine; but it is so arranged that there shall be a clear space of six inches
between the shuttle box and the head of the machine; this is to allow the needle
bar and the presser foot to work inside the boot while stitching the waists of boots
or shoes.
The arm of our machine, within which is formed the shuttle race, is either placed
horizontally or at any required angle, but when our machine is used for the manu-
facture of boots and shoes it is found necessary to slope the said arm so as to allow
the boot, when lasted, to be more readily operated upon.
The shuttle of our improved machine has affixed to its forward end a point or
projection to about the sixteenth of an inch in extent, and this is by preference
nearly on a right line with the centre of the shuttle; it is also made to project a
little beyond the face of the shuttle, and is caused to work in a suitable groove
[Davies 11

page_text: formed within the race; this said point is so arranged that it will take or pick up
the thread although no loop may have been thrown off the needle.
The shuttle box is depressed toward its back side on its top surface, and has a
recess formed in its front on a right line with the stroke of the needle to allow of
the working of a piercing and feeding awl, as herein-after mentioned.
The hole for the passage of the needle is formed on the outside of the shuttle
box; and there is also another recess formed in the bottom of the shuttle box to
admit of a tube containing the wax.
The needle plate is made to the required radius of a circle; when boot soles are
required to be stitched this plate is fitted with a block of the size and shape to
meet the channeling of the sole; part of this block is cut away to allow the said
piercing and feeding awl space to work; in stitching the waist of a boot the position
of this block is altered or reversed. It will will be understood that in sewing over
a flat surface a plain needle plate is used, and for sewing in a welt we fit it with a
raised platform so as to meet the sharp edge of the upper and the welt in a lasted
boot.
The presser foot is provided with two side pieces or cheeks turned over its front,
and there forming a hole or apperture between them of the proper size for the
passage of the needle and its thread; the said foot is so arranged that it will allow
the needle to work close to the upper of a boot without touching it. In some cases
we provide the said presser foot with a suitable roller or rollers, which may be fitted
thereto either on the under side or face of it.
For sewing in a welt, pumps (or turned shoes), a foot is by preference employed,
the lower end of which travels on a projection or ridge formed on the in-sole or
soles, its upper ends forming a guide set at the required angle, against which the
said in-sole or soles work.
For plain work the presser foot is for the most part similar to those now
generally used.
The required pressure to the said foot is conveyed by means of a cam and spring
or wedge and drift, as the work may require, and such pressure can be varied to
any required degree by an ordinary set screw, but such pressure is released whilst
the work is being fed under the needle.
The work is fed by means of an awl, which awl works with an ordinary four-
square motion to the required degree in the space before mentioned; its first
movement is upwards, this pierces the hole for the next stitch, pressure being at this
moment upon the said presser foot; its second movement is at right angles with
the first, and as the pressure on the presser foot is for the moment released it readily
carries the work along until its point is immediately under the point of the needle;
its third movement withdraws it from the work, and as it receedes pressure is again
put on the said presser foot; its fourth movement is at right angles to its third, and
brings the awl back to its starting point.
It will be understood that the length of stitch can be readily regulated by a
suitable set screw, and that the before-described four-square motion can be
performed by any well-known mechanical means.
The wax may be either what is known as liquid or the real hard shoemakers'
wax, and it applied in the following manner:-It is held or contained in an ordinary
wax boat, which is fitted with a suitably shaped tube or spout; this tube is placed
immediately under the needle, and is so arranged that the upper thread is carried
by the needle through the work and immersed in the wax; the said tube can
be adjusted to any required degree, so that the thread may take up only suffi-
cient wax.
It will be understood that when hard wax is employed it must be heated to the
required degree.
The heating apparatus is constructed of metal, and is fitted partly under the
shuttle race and partly along one side of it; the supply of wax flows from the wax
boat along the said tube or spout, and as it becomes exhausted by reason of the

page_text: upper thread dipping into it the hot wax continues to flow from the wax boat, and
so to supply the exhaust.
The needle enters the said tube through a tapered hole, and is by this means
securely held in a true position for the raised point of the shuttle to pass between
5 the needle and its thread, and thus insures a perfect stitch.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Frederick Leonardt and Alfred Christmas Andrews in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 26th January 1878.
FREDERICK LEONARDT, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Merchant, and
ALFRED CHRISTMAS ANDREWS, of the same Place, Machinist. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES TO BE USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND OTHER
PURPOSES."
The object of this Invention is so to construct a sewing machine that it will use
a clean thread on both the shuttle and the needle, and to apply hard or liquid wax
to the said thread during the operation of sewing.
Our improved machine is constructed, as to its arrangement of levers and cams
to obtain the required motion, for the most part similar to an ordinary heavy
sewing machine; but it is so arranged that there shall be a clear space of six inches
between the shuttle box and the head of the machine, this is to allow the needle
bar and the presser foot to work inside the boot while stitching the waists of boots
or shoes.
The arm of our machine, within which is formed the shuttle race, is either placed
horizontally or at any required angle, but when our machine is used for the inanu-
facture of boots and shoes it is found necessary to slope the said arm so as to allow
the boot, when lasted, to be more readily operated upon.
The shuttle of our improved machine has affixed to its forward end a point or
projection to about the sixteenth of an inch in extent, and this is by preference
nearly on a right line with the centre of the shuttle; it is also made to project a
little beyond the face of the shuttle, and is caused to work in a suitable groove
formed within the race; this said point is so arranged that it will take or pick up
the thread although no loop may have been thrown off the needle.
The shuttle box is depressed toward its back side on its top surface, and has a
recess formed in its front on a right line with the stroke of the needle to allow of
the working of the piercing and feeding awl, as herein-after mentioned.
The hole for the passage of the needle is formed on the outside of the shuttle
box;
and there is also another recess formed in the bottom of the shuttle box to
admit of a tube containing the wax.
The needle plate is made to the required radius of a circle; when boot soles are
required to be stitched this plate is fitted with a block of the size and shape to
meet the channeling of the sole; part of this block is cut away to allow the said
piercing and feeding awl space to work; in stitching the waist of a boot the position
of this block is altered or reversed; and it will be understood that in sewing over
a flat surface a plain needle plate is used, and for sewing in a welt we use a raised
platforin so as to meet the sharp edge of the upper and the welt in a lasted boot.

page_text: The presser foot is provided with two side pieces or cheeks, or one piece or cheek,
turned over its front, and there forming a hole or apperture of the proper size for
the passage of the needle and its thread; the said foot is so arranged that it will
allow the needle to work close to the upper of a boot without touching it. In
some cases we provide the said presser foot with a suitable roller or rollers, which
may be fitted thereto either on the under side or face of it.
For sewing in a welt, pumps (or turned shoes), a presser foot is provided, the
lower end of which rests and travels on a projection or ridge formed on the in-sole
or soles, its upper edge forming a guide set at the required angle, against which the
said in-sole or soles work.
For plain work the presser foot is for the most part similar to those now
generally used.
The required pressure to the said foot is conveyed by means of a cam and spring
or wedge and drift, as the work may require, and such pressure can be varied to
any required degree by an ordinary set screw, but such pressure is released by any
suitable means whilst the work is being fed under the needle.
The work is fed by means of an awl, which awl works with an ordinary four-
square motion to the required degree in the space before mentioned; its first
movement is upwards, this pierces the hole for the next stitch, pressure being at
this moment upon the said presser foot; its second movement is at right angles to
the first, and as the pressure on the presser foot is for the moment released it readily
carries the work along until its point is immediately under the point of the needle;
its third movement withdraws it from the work, and as it recedes pressure is again
put upon the said presser foot; its fourth movement is at right angles to its third,
and brings the awl back to its starting point.
It will be understood that the length of stitch can be readily regulated by a
suitable set screw, and that the before-described four-square motion can be
performed by any well-known mechanical means.
The wax may be either what is known as liquid or hard shoemakers' wax, and is
applied in the following manner :-It is held or contained in an ordinary wax boat,
which is fitted with a suitably shaped tube or spout; this tube is placed immediately
under the needle, and is so arranged that the upper thread is carried by the needle
through the work and immersed in the wax; the said tube can be adjusted to any
required degree so that the thread may take up only sufficient wax.
It will be understood that when hard wax is employed it must be heated to the
required degree.
The heating apparatus is constructed of metal, and is fitted under the shuttle
race and partly along one side of it; the supply of wax flows from the wax boat
along the said tube or spout, and as it becomes exhausted by reason of the upper
thread dipping into it the hot wax continues to flow from the wax boat, and so to
supply the exhaust.
The needle enters the said tube through a tapered hole, and is by this means
securely held in a true position for the raised point of the shuttle to pass between
the needle and its thread, and thus insure a perfect stitch.
That our Invention may be better understood we have annexed Drawings thereof,
which we now proceed to describe:-
Figure 1 is a side elevation, Figure 2 is an end elevation, Figure 3 is a front view
of the needle and presser foot, together with its block or hub, feeding awl, and
feeding awl bar in section, drawn full size.
Figure 4 is the wax boat and tubes and shuttle race in section.
Figure 5 is the presser foot and arrangement of parts used for sewing in a welt
or pumps (or turned shoes).
.
Figure 6 is a side view of the presser foot and needle drawn full size, as used for
stitching the waist of a boot.
And Figure 7 is the shuttle drawn full size, shewing the point or projection on
its forward end,

page_text: Similar letters of reference denote the same parts of a machine constructed
according to our Invention in all the Figures.
A is the top frame; B is the bottom bar on arm; C is the shuttle race which is
affixed on the top of the arm B (drawn in section in Figures 2 and 4), which is
shewn at about the required angle; D is the disc having some of the required cams
cut on its inner surface; E is the needle bar with its needle affixed within it on its
front face; F is the lever which actuates the needle bar; G is the presser foot, and
G' is a stop which we sometimes affix to the presser foot, as shewn in Figure 1;
H is the rod which actuates the shuttle; I is à lever, which, working on the ball
joint J, actuate the piercing tool and feeding awl and its bar K.
a
The necessary motion to the before-described lever and rods is given by suitable
cams, two of which (the needle, the piercing and feeding awl rod) are cut on the
inner side of the disc D, but the shuttle rod is worked by an independent cam D
on the inner side of the machine frame, and the presser foot is actuated by the
cam D2 formed on the outer edge of the cam D'.
Lis the hub or block, shewn in Figures 1, 2, and 3, which is used in stitching
round a sole and welt, and this can be replaced by a flat surface when the machine
is required for plain sewing; M is a set screw for regulating the length of stitch;
N is a groove cut within the shuttle race to admit of the free working of the point
or forward end of the shuttle.
Having now described the nature of our Invention and the manner in which the
same is to be performed, we wish it to be understood that we do not limit ourselves
to the precise details herein-before described and illustrated in the Drawings, as the
same may be varied or modified without departing from the nature of our said
Invention, but we claim as the Invention to be protected by the herein-before in
part recited Letters Patent,-
First. Working a needle and shuttle within the inside of a boot while stitching
the waist or seat with a lock-stitch, substantially as herein-before described, and
illustrated in the accompanying Drawings.
Second. The projecting point on the fore end of the shuttle in combination with
the groove in the shuttle box, within which it works for the purpose of picking up
the thread from the needle, whether a loop has been thrown off or not, substantially
as herein-before described, and illustrated in the accompanying Drawings.
Third. The presser foot with its guide and attachments for sewing in a welt or
for sewing pumps (or turned shoes), substantially as herein-before described, and
illustrated in the accompanying Drawings.
Fourth. The side piece or pieces, cheek or cheeks, which enable the needle to
work quite close to the upper of the boot without touching or injuring the said
upper, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated in the accompanying
Drawings.
Fifth. Applying liquid or heated hard wax to the needle thread by immersing it
into the tapered tube, substantially as herein-before described and illustrated in the
accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, we, the said Frederick Leonardt and Alfred Christmas
Andrews, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-second day of
January, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
eight.
F. LEONARDT.
(L.S.)
ALFRED CHRISTMAS ANDREWS. (L.S.)