IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES'
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills of the firm of Harris
and Mills of 23 Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex, Patent
Agent for an Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES' Com-
municated to him from abroad by Claude Vernay and François Roux, both of
Lyons in the Republic of France
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Benjamin Joseph Barnard
Mills at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 21st December
1882.
BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS of the firm of Harris and Mills of
23 Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES' A communication to me from abroad by Claude
Vernay and François Roux, both of Lyons in the Republic of France
"
This machine uses only one thread contained in a shuttle working under the
table of the machine, the stitch is formed by the play of a double hook which
works vertically in a similar manner to the needle of an ordinary machine.
The stitch is formed by a succession of loops passing through the work from
below upwards, each of the loops being traversed by one of the threads of the
following loop as shown at Figure 1. in the accompanying drawings. Figures
2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 represent the successive positions of the hook and of the shuttle
in the formation of the stitch.
a. a. represents the material, b is the work table or plate which is pierced with
an eye for the passage of the hook.
The hook c is double and can hook onto the thread either in ascending or in
descending, it is operated by a cam and a lever or otherwise in a similar manner to
the needle of ordinary machines.
The shuttle works under the table or plate in a rectilinear or circular course it
is also operated by a lever and a cam or otherwise in a similar manner to ordinary
shuttle machines.

page_text: These two parts are supplemented by an extender e passing alternately to the
right and to the left of the hook and which consists of a small round rod shown
only in section on the drawing.
Supposing the sewing commenced and the parts to be placed as shown in
Figure 2, that is the shuttle to the left, the hook leaving the material bringing up
with it a loop taken on the shuttle thread, the extender e to the left of the hook ;
The hook still rising passes above the extender e which then passes to its right, and
re-descends carrying with it the loop which rides on the extender as at Figure 3.
during this time, the shuttle is passed to the right of the hook and the material is
advanced a stitch.
The hook then pierces the material as shown at Figure 4 and the shuttle
commences to advance to pass through the loop which has re-descended under the
table the extender e which has followed the hook nearly down to the material then
retiros, and passes to the left of the needle whilst the shuttle passes completely
through the loop as shown at Figure 5.
The hook then re-ascends leaving the loop traversed by the shuttle and then
siezes by its lower hook the thread passing out of the shuttle.
It raises this thread in the form of a loop as at Figure 6 and by a rapid rising
movement tightens the stitch which has just been formed, this tightening has the
effect of bringing to the top of the material the preceding loop which has been
traversed by the shuttle the stitch is completed and the parts again assume the
original position as at Figure 2.
The main character of this method of forming the stitch consists in the fact
that each loop drawn by the hook above the material passes provisionally below
through the following stitch, to be traversed by the shuttle and that the tightening
of the stitch causes it finally to rise above the fabric where it is fixed by the
passage of one of the threads of the following loop.
There results from this a great solidity as tension upon one or other of the two
ends of the thread can only have the effect of tightening the stitch, and a great
elasticity as no part of the thread can be placed in a straight line.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 21st June 1883.
BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS of the Firm of Harris & Mills of
" IMPROVE-
23 Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex Patent Agent
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES A. Communication to me from abroad by Claude
Vernay and François Roux both of Lyons in the Republic of France
"
This machine is designed for producing a fast and elastic sewing, by means of a
single thread contained in a shuttle working under the table of the machine, and
of a double hook occupying the position of the needle of ordinary machines.
Contrary to ordinary machines the thread traverses the work from below
upwards in the form of loops taken from the shuttle thread, and drawn outward
by the play of the hook; each of theso loops being traversed by one of the threads
of the following, there is obtained the stitch represented in the accompanying
drawing at Figure 1 the interlooping of which presents the external appearance of
the sewing known as "back stitch" made by hand.
Before describing the arrangement of the various parts of the machine. I will
detail the successive phases of the formation of the stitch, considering first only
the two principal parts, the shuttle and the hook the successive positions of which
are represented at Figures 2, 7, 8, 9 and 10%; in these figures a represents the
material or the super-position of the different thicknesses of material to be sewn,
which advances from left to right; b. b is the table or plate of the machine which
is pierced with an eye for the passage of the hook.
The book c is double, that is to say it can hook on to the thread in rising and
in descending; in the drawing the two hooks are represented as placed on the
same side, but they could be placed opposite to each other, or in such a position as
that represented in Figures 11, 12 and 13, provided that they be directed in
reverse position, they work vertically as the needle of ordinary sewing machines.
The shuttle n carries the only throad forming the sewing, it works under the
table or plate in a segmental or straight path being a tangent to the vertical line of
motion of the hook,
Supposing the sewing commenced, and the parts to be placed as shown in
Figures 2 and 3, the shuttle to the left and the hook leaving the material bringing
up with it a loop formed by the shuttle thread, at this moment the hook is found
at the right of a small bar or extender the play of which can be seen in the
following positions.
The hook still rising, its point passes the extender e, which then passes to the
right of the hook see Figure 7 this latter redescends and carries with it its loop
by its upper hook, causing it to slide upon the extender e across which it is
supported during this time the shuttle is passed to the right of the hook, and the
material has advanced the length of a stitch.
The hook then pierces the material (see Figure 8) and the shuttle traverses the
stitch (see Figure 9); this passage is facilitated by a flat on the needle at the
point where it is put in contact with the shuttle; the hook then leaves the loop
which has just been traversed by the shuttle, and comes in rising to seize the
thread of the latter by its lower hook.
This thread then traverses the material in the form of a loop, see Figure 10, aud

page_text: the hook, rising rapidly, tightens the stitch, which has the effect of bringing the
first loop above the material, the stitch is completed, and the parts again assume
the position shown at Figure 2 ready to execute the next stitch.
The essential character of this manner of working consists in the fact that each
loop drawn above the material returns provisionally through the following stitch,
to bo traversed by the shuttle, and that the tightening of the stitch causes it finally
to rise above the fabric where it is fixed by the passage of one of the threads of
the following loop.
There results from this First-A great solidity in the sewing, as tension upon
one or other of the free threads can only have the effect of tightening the stitch
and Second a perfect elasticity as the thread does not follow a straight line.
The working of the parts which operate directly upon the thread, being thus
explained,
I will describe the mechanical means employed to give them the desired
movements at proper times as well as the accessories destined to insure the execution
of the stitch.
First Movement of the hook see Figures 2 and 3.
The hook c is mounted as an ordinary needle upon a needle bar D sliding in the
head A of the machine and operated by a lever B worked by a cam fixed on the
main shaft of the machine.
Figures 11, 12 and 13 represent different varieties in form of the hook.
Second. Movement of the shuttle see Figures 2, 3 and 6.
The shuttle moves in the circular path d the exterior side of which is a
tangent to the vertical line followed by the hook; motion is given to it by the
cam E, acting upon the small arm of the crank lever F, the long arm of which at
its end receives the shuttle, upon a carriage G furnished with two pins g g, which,
penetrating into two holes of the shuttle secure the working thereof.
These pins, by the action of two small internal springs, have a constant tendency
to leave the shuttle and are only held in their holes by their friction upon a circular
fixed plate H which has a notch at h, it therefore follows that the pins leave the
shuttle the one after the other by passing before this notch, which permits the loop
passing behind the shuttle, without completely abandoning it: a flat spring placed
between the carriage and the shuttle, secures its perfect contact with the circular
plate d d.
Third. Movoment of the extender see Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5.
The extender consists of a lever e oscillating around a point 2, and acted upon
by a spring: this lever which is intended to pass to the right or to the left of the
hook, is for this purpose mounted upon an oscillating piece K, held by a spring k;
an abutment or stop n' placed on the left of the hook limits the course of the lever
on this side; lastly on the same axis Z as the lever, is fixed a small cam o furnished
with a notch into which the spring p can enter.
The arm B of the lever which operates the needle bar, carries a bolt L which
sorves to cause the piece K to oscillate, by acting upon the double inclined plane q
the anterior faco of which pushes back the bolt L in the descent without producing
any movement; whilst in the rising motion the bolt L strikes against the lateral
face of the inclined plane to push the piece K towards the left as shown at
Figure 2.
This explained, it will be seen that in the position shown at Figure 2 the extender
placed at the left of the needle bar is pressed against tho fixed abutment n³, and
against the hook, by the spring %, which tends to cause it to pass to its right, which
it does as soon as the point passes it; it escapes at the same time the abutment n¹
and rises the length of the hook until it is in contact with the thread which
holds it.
When the hook descends see Figure 7 the tension of the thread first, then the contact
of the needlo bar D, lowers the extender e just to the level of the work, where it

page_text: retires behind the hook see Figures 5 and 8; at this moment the small spring p
becoming engaged in the notch o holds it in this position; the hook again rising,
the bolt L pushes back the piece K, and the extender passes to the right; in this
motion the cam o escapes laterally the spring p, the extender then rises to the right
of the hook, until it is in contact with the needle bar sce Figure 9, this latter still
rising, finally abandons it to contact with the abutment n¹ see Figuro 2 where it
recommences the same operations.
Fourth. Movement of the loop liberator see Figures 2, 3 and 6;
The loop liberator is intended to insure the disengagement of the loop which the
hook should leave below the work, although by a convenient form of the hook this
accessory could be dispensed with I will describe it as a safety apparatus, it consists
of a vertical needle i fixed upon a disc M, turning concentrically around the hook
which at the end of its course penetrates a certain distance into its hollow axle.
When the shuttle has traversed the loop it disengages the hook by making a
revolution around its point; to this end, the disc M, carries a pinion r which gears
with a toothed segment N carrying a crank 8, which comes against a pin, fixed in
the shuttle carrier G.
These parts are regulated in such manner that the pin encounters the crank at
the moment when the back of the shuttle is about to pass the hook; the rotary
motion of the needle i is given in the direction of the arrow, to disengage the loop
during the remainder of the course of the shuttle; on the return of the latter the
sector N, brought back by the spring u, causes the needle i to turn in the reverso
direction, and replaces it in position for the following stitch.
Fifth. Movement of the thread handler see Figures 3 and 6.
When the hook, by the preceding movement, is disengaged from the loop,
traversed by the shuttle, it should in again rising take the thread which leaves the
latter; to this end the thread is presented to the hook at the desired times by a
lever f.
The movement of this lever is obtained by a cam P, mounted upon the main
shaft, and acting upon a transverse slide R placed under the table of the machine,
and to which is fixed the prolongation V of the lever f; in tho various positions of
the shuttle, it is indispensable that its thread be always in tension.
This result is obtained by means of a small internal spring see Figure 14 under
or through which passes the thread before definitely passing to the exterior of the
shuttle.
When the shuttle is at the end of its course, the tension of the thread forces the
spring to bend as represented in the Figure, but on the return, the elasticity of the
spring brings the thread back to the interior in proportion as it shortens, and finally -
holds it always in tension.
The drawing and regulation of the stitch are effected by any known means
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention and the mode in which
the same is carried into effect I would have it understood that what I claim is :-
First. The execution of a knotted stitch with a single thread contained in an
ordinary shuttle, by means of a double hook fulfilling the following functions.
a. To draw up above the work a loop formed by the extended thread of the
shuttle.
b. To tako down provisionally this same loop into the following stitch to cause it
to be traversed by the shuttle.
c. To leave this loop and again take the extended thread of the shuttle, to form
a new stitch.
d. To carry definitely the first loop above the work and to tighten the stitch.
Second. The accessory movement of an extender intended to maintain the loop
in tension during its passage from one stitch to another above the work.
Third. The accessory and optional motion of a loop liberator, intended to ensure
the complete liberation of the loop, when it has been traversed by the shuttlo.

page_text: Fourth. The accessory movement of a thread handler intended to present to the
hook the extended thread of the shuttle in order that it may with certainty, be
taken by the hook.
In witness whereof I the said Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills have hereunto
set my hand and seal this nineteenth day of June in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty three.