IMPROVEMENTS IN FORMING STITCHES OVER THE EDGES OF FABRICS AND IN MACHINERY CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Davies, of No. 1, Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn,
in the County of Middlesex, and No. 28, St. Enoch Square, in the City
of Glasgow, Civil Engineer and Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN FORMING STITCHES OVER THE EDGES OF FABRICS AND
IN MACHINERY CONNECTED THEREWITH."A communication from abroad
by Abraham Hart, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of
America.
Sealed the 31st March 1864, and dated the 20th October 1863.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Davies at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
20th October 1863.
I, GEORGE DAVIES, of No. 1, Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of
Middlesex, and No. 28, St. Enoch Square, in the City of Glasgow, Civil
Engineer and Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FORMING STITCHES OVER THE EDGES OF FABRICS AND IN
MACHINERY CONNECTED THEREWITH," (a communication to me from abroad by
Abraham Hart, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America) to
be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the formation of peculiar stitches over the edges of
fabrics, as in button-holes, and to certain mechanism, fully described hereafter,
for forming the said stitches.
One method of carrying out this Invention is as follows:-The form and

page_text: a
arrangement of the bed plate of the machine and of the work plate, the sta-
tionary arm, the pressure pad, and the vibrating arm which carries the needle,
are the same as in ordinary sewing machines. On pins fixed in the stationary
arm work two levers connected together at their rear ends by a link. To the
front end of one lever is secured a booked rod which is curved in a direction
corresponding to an arc of a circle. From the side of the other lever projects
pin which enters a slot in the end of. the needle arm. From the lower end
of an arm which vibrates on a pin projects a hook, and a pin projecting from
the inner side of this arm enters a slot in a plate secured to the needle arm.
It will bence be apparent that as the needle arm ascends a corresponding
motion will be imparted to the hooked rod through the medium of the levers,
which are caused to vibrate through the action of the slot of the needle arm
on the pin above named, and also that the action of the slotted plate on its pin
will cause the vibrating arm with its hook to swing to and fro over the work
plate.
The needle having been threaded and the fabric placed upon the work
plate, so that the hooked rod can pass readily through the button-hole, the
actions of the different parts will be as follows:-The needle in its descent will
penetrate the fabric a short distance from the edge of the button-hole, the
hooked rod descending simultaneously through the button-hole. As the needle
begins to return its thread will be looped so as to be caught by the hooked
rod and drawn up into the form of a loop over the edges and to the top of the
fabric, where it is caught by the hook on the vibrating arm and carried off
the hooked rod. As the needle arm continues its descent the vibrating arm,
by its forward movement, slackens the loop to such a degree that the needle
as it descends can pass freely through it and penetrate the fabric, the vibrating
arm moving further forward and dropping the loop, which it now secured to
the top of the fabric both by that portion of the thread carried down by the
needle and that portion drawn after it in its ascent, the hooked rod having
caught it beneath the fabric as before, the continuance of these operations
resulting in the formation of a series of stitches drawn over the edge of the
fabric in loops and secured to the top of the fabric by another portion of the
same thread carried through the fabric by the needle. Two threads may be
used without changing the construction of any of the parts above specified
excepting that of the hooked needle or rod, which must have a second hook
to catch the second thread, which should be so conducted from a spool or
bobbin below the work plate as to be caught by the said hook and drawn in the
form of a loop through the loop of the the thread from the needle, and drawn
with the latter loop over the edge of the fabric, and to be caught and spread

page_text: by the hook on the vibrating arm along with the latter loop, that the needle
may pass through it also.
When two threads, however, have to be used for making a stitch over the
edge of the fabric the following mechanism is preferred:-To the black plate
of the machine, at the rear end of the same, is secured a hollow standard,
from which projects a stationary arm, and in the front end of this arm slides
the reciprocating needle bar. The driving shaft turning at one end in the
hollow standard, and at the other end in the head of the stationary arm, the
front end of the driving shaft being furnished with a crank wheel the pin of
which operates in a curved slot at the rear of the needle bar so as to impart
to the same the desired reciprocating motion. The upper thread passes in
contact with a tension device, the latter being a modification of the tension
devices heretofore used in connection with sewing machines and therefore
requiring no further explanation. From the tension device the thread passes
through an eye on the top of the needle bar, and thence through the eye of
the needle to the fabric. The spring-pressure pad is of the ordinary con-
struction. On the driving shaft and within the hollow standard is a pinion
gearing into a wheel (which turns on a stud secured to the said standard)
which gears into a pinion on the cam shaft, the latter turning in projectings
on the under side of the base plate, and the gearing being such that the cam
shaft and driving shaft shall turn at the same speed. On the former shaft is
a cam into the curved groove of which fits a pin on a horizontal lever which
has its fulcrum on a pin secured to the base plate. The outer end of this
lever is connected by means of a ball-and-socket joint to one end of a rod, the
opposite end of which is connected by means of a ball-and-socket joint to a
projection on an arm which is hung to a pin on a plate fixed to the base plate.
To the end of this arm is secured a curved looper, through two eyes near the
end of which passes the under thread, the supply of the latter being derived
from a spool on a pin attached to the under side of the base plate. Another
cam is secured to the cam shaft, and into the groove of this cam projects a
pin on a horizontal arm which is hung to a pin on the base plate, the forked
end of this arm embracing a pin on another 'horizontal arm which is hung to
a pin also on the base plate. This last-named arm carries what may be termed
the curved loop holder. The action of this arrangement is as follows:-As
the needle descends it penetrates the fabric and carries with it the needle
thread, but in the act of descending the needle with its thread 'passes in front
of the under thread, which is held by the looper in a proper position for the
As the point of the needle enters the fabric the looper begins to
descend, carrying with it the under thread, the needle and looper arriving at
purpose.

page_text: the limit of their downward movement simultaneously. The needle then rises
slightly, looping its thread at its side beneath the fabric so that it may be
caught by the loop holder, which draws it over the point of the looper. The
needle then rises from the fabric and the looper also rises so that its point
shall enter the open loop held by the loop holder. The looper continuing to
rise carries the under thread beneath one side of the loop of the needle thread
and the loop holder drops the latter thread and moves back to its original
position. When the looper reaches its first position the under thread will be
drawn across the path of the needle, presenting an open loop through which
the needle may again descend, the opening of the loop being increased by the
movement of the fabric. The needle again descends in front of the under
thread, the looper also descending the instant the needle has pierced the
fabric, and both simultaneously reaching the limit of their downward move-
ment; the needle then ascends so as to loop the thread at its side, the loop
holder carries the same over the point of the looper, and the operation proceeds
as before.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said George Davies in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 20th
April 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GEORGE
DAVIES, of No. 1, Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of Middlesex,
and No. 28, St. Enoch Square, in the City of Glasgow, Civil Engineer and
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the 27th year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said George Davies, Her special license that I, the said George Davies, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said George
Davies, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FORMING STITCHES
OVER THE EDGES OF FABRICS AND IN MACHINERY CONNECTED THEREWITH," being a
communication to me from abroad by Abraham Hart, of Philadelphia, Penn-
22

page_text: sylvania, United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said George Davies, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my hand and seal, or under the hand and seal of one of them,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Davies, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement in writing, and on reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, that is to say :-
This Invention relates to the formation of peculiar stitches over the edges
of fabrics, as in button holes, and to certain mechanism, fully described here-
after, for forming the said stitches.
On reference to the accompanying Drawing, Figure 1 is a side view of part
of a machine for sewing button holes and forming stitches on the edges of
fabrics from one thread only; Figure 1, a detached view of part of Figure 1,
drawn to an enlarged scale; Figures 2 and 3, detached views of parts of the
machine drawn to an enlarged scale; Figure 5, a side view (partly in section)
of a machine in which two threads are used; Figure 6, an inverted plan view
of Figure 5; Figures 7 to 14 are diagrams illustrating the progressive forma-
tion of the stitch; Figure 15, a view of the completed stitch, drawn to an
enlarged scale. Figure 16, a side view representing a modification of the
machine shown in Figure 5; Figure 17, a front view of Figure 16, drawn to
an enlarged scale. Figure 18, a side view of another modification; Figure 19,
a front view, and Figure 20, an enlarged view of the stitch. In all the views
many of the parts not necessary to illustrate the Invention are omitted.
Description of the machine illustrated in Figures 1, 1, 2 and 3.-A is
the bed plate of the machine; B, the work plate; C, the stationary arm;
D, the pressure pad; and E, the vibrating arm, which carries the needle n;
the form and arrangement of these parts being the same as in ordinary
sewing machines of a class similar to that illustrated. On pins fixed in
the stationary arm C work two levers G and F, connected together at their
rear ends by a link c. To the front end of the lever F is secured a booked
rod b, which is curved in a direction corresponding to an arc of a circle, of
which the pin a is the centre. From the side of the lever G projects a pin e,
which enters a slot f in the end of the needle arm; I is an arm which

page_text: vibrates on a pin g in the upper end of a stationary plate C. From the
lower end of the arm I projects a hook h, and a pin i projecting from the
inner side of the arm enters a slot in a plate J secured to the needle arm. It
will be apparent that as the needle arm E ascends, a corresponding motion will
be imparted to the hooked rod b, through the medium of the levers F and G,
which are caused to vibrate through the action of the slot f on the pin e,
and also that the action of the slotted plate J on the pin i will cause the
arm I, with its hook h, to swing backwards and forwards over the work plate.
The needlen having been threaded and the fabric placed upon the work plate,
so that the hooked rod b can pass readily through the button hole, the actions
of the different parts will be as follows:-The needle n in its descent will
penetrate the fabric a short distance from the edge of the button hole, the
hooked rob descending simultaneously through the button hole to the
position shown in Figure 2. As the needlen begins to return its thread will
be looped, so as to be caught by the hooked rod b and drawn up in the form
of a loop over the edges and to the top of the fabric, where it is caught by
the hook h, and carried from off the hooked rod b to the position shown in
Figure 1. As the arm E continues its ascent, the arm I by its forward
movement slackens the loop to such a degree that the needle n as it descends
can pass freely through it and penerate the fabric; the arm I moving further
forward and dropping the loop, which is now secured to the top of the fabric,
both by that portion of the thread carried down by the needle and that portion
drawn after it in its ascent, the hook 6 having caught it beneath the fabric as
before; the continuance of these operations resulting in the formation of a
series of stitches drawn over the edge of the fabric in loops, and secured to
the top of the fabric by another portion of the same thread carried through
the fabric by the needle n. The stitch drawn to an enlarged scale is shown
in Figure 3.
Two threads may be used without changing the construction of any of the
parts above specified, excepting that of the hooked needle 6, which must have
a second hook to catch the second thread, which should be so conducted from
a spool or bobbin below the work plate as to be caught by the said hook and
drawn in the form of a loop through the loop of the thread from the needle n,
and drawn with the latter loop over the edge of the fabric, and to be caught
and spread by the hook h along with the latter loop that the needle n may
pass through it also. When two tbreads, however, have to be used for
making a stitch over the edge of the fabric, the mechanism illustrated in
Figures 5 and 6 is preferred.

page_text: On reference to these Figures and to the Diagrams 7 to 15 inclusive,
A is the base plate of the machine, and to this plate at the rear of the same
is secured the hollow standard B, from which projects the stationary arm B',
and in the front end of this arm slides the reciprocating needle bar C; D is
the driving shaft turning at one end in the hollow standard B, and at the
other end in the head of the stationary arm B1, the front end of the driving
shaft being furnished with a crank wheel E, the pin of which operates in a
curved slot at the rear of the needle bar, so as to impart to the same the
desired reciprocating motion; F is the spool containing the upper thread x,
which passes in contact with the tension device G, the latter being a modifi-
cation of tension devices heretofore used in connection with sewing machines,
and therefore requiring no elaborate explanation. From the tension device
the thread & passes through an eye a on the top of the needle bar, thence
through a guide opening at the lower end of the said bar, and thence through
the eye of the needle to the fabric.. The spring-pressure pad is of the ordinary
construction. On the driving shaft D, and within the hollow standard B, is a
pinion gearing into a wheel H, which turns on a stud secured to the said
standard, and which gears into a pinion I on the cam shaft J, the latter
turning in projections e, e, on the under side of the base plate A, and the
gearing being such that the cam shaft and driving shaft shall turn at the same
speed. On the shaft J is a cam f, into the curved groove of which fits a pin
on the horizontal lever K, which has its fulcrum on a pin h secured to the
base plate A. The outer end of this lever K is connected by means of a ball-
and-socket joint to one end of the rod L, the opposite end of which is con-
nected by means of a ball-and-socket joint to a projection m on an arm M,
which is hung to a pin i on the plate j. It should be understood here that
the pin i and arm M are arranged diagonally for a purpose described here-
after. To the end of the arm M is secured the curved looper N through two
eyes, near the end of which passes the under thread y, the supply. of the latter
being derived from a spool k on a pin attached to the under side of the base
plate: Another cam g
is secured. to the cam shaft J, and into the groove of
this cam projects a pin on the horizontal arm P, which is hung to a pin 7 on
the base plate, the forked end p of this arm embracing a pin on another hori-
zontal arm P', which is hung to a pin q. This arm P¹ carries what may be
termed the curved loopholder R. The feeding device may be similar to those
of other sewing machines. S is the plate forming a rest for the fabric repre-
sented at X in the several Diagrams, in which Diagrams are also represented
on a enlarged scale the reciprocating eye-pointed needle F, the looper N, and
loopholder R, which by their joint action form the desired stitch on the edge

page_text: of the fabric X in the following manner:-In Figure 7 the looper N carry-
ing the under thread y has reached the limit of its upward vibration, and
the needle F is in the act of descending while the looper remains stationary,
the upper thread a passing through the fabric and the eye of the needle,
while the under thread y occupies a position in front of the edge of the fabric,
as for instance, the edge of a button hole. As the needle descends it
penetrates the fabric, and carries with it the needle thread, but in the act
of descending the needle with its thread passes in front of the thread Y, which
is held by the looper in a proper position for the purpose. As the point of the
needle F enters the fabric, the looper begins to descend, carrying with it the
under thread y, the needle and looper arriving at the limit of their downward
movement simultaneously, and occupying the relative positions illustrated in
Figure 8. The needle F then rises, slightly looping the thread at its
side beneath the fabric, so that it may be caught by the loopholder R
which carries it to the position shown in Figure 9. The needle then rises
from the fabric, and the looper N also rises, so that its point shall enter the
open loop held by the loop holder R. The looper N continuing to rise,
carries the thread y under one side of the loop of the thread a (Figure 10)
and the loop holder R drops the thread a, and moves back to its original
position Figure 11. When the looper reaches its first position the thread y will
be drawn across the path of the needle F, as shown in Figure 12, presenting
an open loop through which the needle may again descend, the opening of the
loop being increased by the movement of the fabric in the direction of the
arrow. The needle again descends in front of the thread y, the looper also
descending the instant the needle has pierced the fabric, and both simul-
taneously reaching the limit of their downward movement, the needle then
ascends so as to loop the thread at its side, the loop holder carries the same
to the position shown in Figure 9, and the operation is continued as before.
It will be seen from the foregoing description that loops of the under thread y
are lapped over the edge of the fabric, and interlocked by the upper thread x,
and secured by the same to the fabric, so as to form a stitch of the character
represented in the Diagram Figure 15, and this with the greatest precision
and the desired rapidity by the aid of the simple mechanism described. When
there is an equal tension upon both the threads a and y, the lock of the stitch
is formed directly on the centre of the edge of the fabric, where it presents
a uniform ridge as seen in Figure 15. When it is desired to form the
lock, or the continuous ridge of interlocked threads upon the upper edge
of the fabric the tension upon the upper thread a is diminished, and
that upon the lower thread y is increased so that the lower thread may

page_text: draw the lock to the top of the fabric. To form the lock of the stitch
upon the lower edge this operation is reversed, the tension or the lower
thread y being diminished and that on the upper thread a increased. It
will be seen that it is necessary before the descent of the needle F for the
thread carried by the looper to be so opened that the needle may descend
between it and the looper; this is accomplished by causing the looper to carry
the loop diagonally across the vertical path of the needle, the necessary motion
required to be imparted to the looper N being attained by arranging the arm
M (to which the looper is attached) diagonally upon the bed plate of the
machine as described above. The effect of this diagonal movement of the
looper will be best understood by reference to the Diagram, Figure 14,
where F represents a sectional plan of the needle on an enlarged scale, the
line 3 representing the edge of the fabric, the line 4 showing the diagonal
course taken by the point of the looper, and f representing the loop of under
thread.
A modification of the Invention last described is shown in Figures 16
and 17, the latter being drawn to an enlarged scale.
A is the bed plate; B is the work plate; C, the stationary arm; and E, part
of the vibrating needle arm. Through the standard D supporting the work
plate B projects a rod a having on its outer end a toothed pinion e, which
gears into the segment G, the latter being hung to a pin c on the side of the
standard. A vibrating motion is imparted to the segment G, by means of
a rod H, which is actuated from any moving part of the machine by suitable
mechanism. From the inner face of the standard D projects a cylinder I, in
which is a spiral slot b, the rod a passing through the cylinder, and having a
pin i projecting into the slot. To the inner end of the rod a is secured a
curved looper N, through eyes in which passes the under thread y', the upper
thread a passing through the eye of the needle M. The different parts of the
machine occupying the relative positions shown in the Drawing, the looper N
being to the right of the needle M, the fabric is laid upon the work plate so
that the looper N projects through the button hole, the edge of which is to be
stitched, when the operation of the parts will be as follows:-The needle M
first passes downwards through the fabric until it has reached the position
shown by red lines, Figure 17. As the needle M descends, the looper N will
be carried round in the direction of its arrow (Figure 16), to the limit
of its motion in that direction, when it will occupy a position to the left of the
needle, the rod a having been carried laterally to the left by the action of the
slot b upon the pin i. As the needle M begins its upward movement a loop
of the thread x is formed at its side, through which loop passes the point of

page_text: the looper N, as it moves upward and laterally to the right simultaneously
with the upward movement of the needle, the working parts of the machine
at the end of this movement re-occupying their first positions. As the needle
M again commences its downward movement and the looper begins to recede,
the thread at the side of the latter is looped to a sufficient extent to allow the
needle M to pass through it into the fabric, and while the looper continuing
its receding motion draws the thread over the edge of the fabric and beneath
the same, where it takes its former position at the left of the needle M, aud
at the next movement carries the thread y' through the loop of the thread a,
at the side of the needle M over the edge of the fabric, to its first position,
where the loop is again secured at the top of the fabric by the descent through
it of the needle M.
It will be-seen that by the combination of the lateral and oscillating move-
ments given to the looper N, the point of the said looper is caused to move in
a diagonal path coinciding with the line a, a, Figure 17, first to one side, and
then to the other of the needle M, the looper locking the thread of the needle
M beneath the fabric while the needle secures the thread carried by the
looper at the top of the fabric, the result being a stitch similar to that shown
in Figure 20, which corresponds with the stitch formed by the machine
illustrated in Figures 5 and 6. Figures 18 and 19 exhibit a device whereby
the same result is attained as in the machine last described, the under thread
being carried first to one side and then to the other of the needle as before. In
this instance the looper N has no lateral motion, but the standard J, on which
is hung the arm E, is placed at such an angle that the arm E will vibrate
across the vertical path of the looper in a diagonal path coinciding with the
line x, x, Figure 19. It will thus be apparent that when the end of the arm E
carrying the needle is depressed to the position shown in Figure 19, the needle
M will occupy a position at the right of the looper, while when the needle M
has attained its most elevated position, the looper will be at ats right above
the plates, the relative actions of the needle and looper being in effect the
same as in the last described machine and producing the same stitch.
Having now described the nature and object of the said Invention for
"Improvements in Forming Stitches over the Edges of Fabrics, and in
Machinery connected therewith," together with the manner in which the
same is to be or may be performed or carried into practical effect, I would
remark in conclusion that I claim as the Invention communicated to me by
the above-named Abraham Hart,-
Firstly, forming on the edges of fabrics the stitch herein described by the
mechanism set forth, or any equivalent to the same, whereby the loops of needle

page_text: thread are passed over the edge of the fabric and confined thereto by the
same thread, as illustrated in Figure 3.
Secondly, forming on the edges of fabrics the stitch herein described by
the mechanism set forth or any equivalent to the same, whereby loops of an
under thread are passed over the edge of the fabric and interlocked with
and confined to the fabric by the needle thread, as illustrated in Figures 15
and 20.
Thirdly, the combination of the needle n, hooked bar b, and hook h, the
whole being arranged and operating substantially as herein described and
illustrated in Figures 1, 1, and 2 of the Drawing.
Fourthly, the combination of a reciprocating or vibrating eye pointed needle
F, the looper N, and loop holder R, the whole being arranged and operating
substantially as and for the purpose herein set forth, and illustrated in Figures
1 and 2, and Diagrams 7 to 14.
Fifthly, so arranging the said looper N, and causing the same to so operate
that it will carry the loop of under thread diagonally over the edge of the
fabric and across the vertical path of the needle as and for the purpose
described.
Sixthly, the looper N, Figures 16 and 17 in combination with the eye,
pointed needle M when a combined vibrating and lateral movement is imparted
to the said looper, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Seventhly, the combination of the eye-pointed needle M, Figures 18 and 19
and vibrating looper N, when the said needle has the diagonal movement
described for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Davies, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twentieth day of April, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
GEORGE DAVIES.
L.S.)