IMPROVE- MENTS IN EMBROIDERING OR SEWING; AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS. 1. CONNECTED THEREWITH.
Year: 1857

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.:
LETTERS, PATENT to Matthew Dannett, of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN EMBROIDERING OR SEWING; AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS.
1. CONNECTED THEREWITH.".
i
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Matthew Dunnett at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 23rd
"April 1857 1
I, MATTHEW DUNNETT, of.Glasgow, in the County of Lanark,, North Britain,
5 Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said, Invention for "Im-
.PROVEMENTS, IN EMBROIDERING OR SEWING, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
CONNECTED THEREWITH," to be as follows, that is to say
.
This Invention relates to various improvements in embroidering or sewing,
and in machinery or apparatus connected therewith, and has chiefly for object
the production by machinery of sewed muslins & other ornamental fabrics in
a more satisfactory and economical manner than has hitherto been attain-
able, whilst at the same time modifications of the improved system are appli-
cable to sewing of a non-ornamental character.
One, modification of the improved machinery, or..apparatus is capable of
producing simultaneously any, convenient number of repetitions of the same
pattern by employing a sufficient number of, needles.. The form of the orna-
mental details embroidered upon the fabric or material is. produced, either by

page_text: the movement of the frame carrying the fabric or by that of the frame or
frames carrying the needles, & is derived from a pattern or design drawn to
an enlarged scale, by means of which the movement referred to is regulated.
If the pattern is produced by the movement of the fabric, the latter is stretched
between rollers or otherwise in a frame, which is by preferénce vertical, and is
capable of moving horizontally or vertically in grooves upon a second frame
or slide, which last is capable of moving at right angles to the first frame in
grooves formed upon the stationary framing of the machine, so that the frame
carrying the fabric is capable of moving in any direction in the plane of the
fabric, but is in every position parallel to the same stationary lines.
The regulating movement by which the embroidered device is shaped may
be constructed on the principle of any suitable pantographic instrument, but
it is preferred to construct it on the principle of the instrument known as the
eidograph, which consists of a lever capable of turning about a centre upon
the stationary framing, and having jointed to it two bars, one at each extremity.
On each of these bars and concentric with the joint is fixed a pulley, and a
steel band is fixed round the two pulleys, by means of which any angular
movement of one.bar-is-communicated to the other. The extremity of one
of the bars carries a pointer or tracer, which is moved by the attendant from
point to point of the enlarged pattern as the embroidering action goes on,
this pattern being placed in a convenient position for the purpose. The
extremity of the other bar carries a stud working in a socket in the frame
carrying the fabric, which frame consequently moves in accordance with the
motion of the tracing point over the pattern, the movement of the fabric
bearing a relation to that of the tracing point depending on the proportions
between the eidographic details by which the movement is imparted. The
needle employed in this embroidering apparatus is pointed at both ends, the
thread being attached to an eye formed at its longitudinal centre. Each
needle is held in a clip or holder, which brings it up to and passes it through the
fabric, causing it to enter into an opposite clip or holder on the opposite side of
the fabric. The first clip then relaxes its hold upon the needle which is
firmly held by the opposite clip, and is drawn through the fabric by the reces-
sion therefrom of this last clip. The needle is in this way passed backwards
and forwards through the fabric by the alternate action of the clips on each
side, the fabric being moved between each stroke so as to bring a a new point
opposite to the needle and thereby shape out the details of the pattern. Of
course all the needles act in precisely the same way, all the clips on one side
moving simultaneously at one time and those on the other side at another time.
"Various" contrivances' may be adopted for holding the needles in the clips,

page_text: provision being made for releasing them at the proper times; and the frames
carrying the clips may be moved up to and away from the fabric by hand or
by self-acting mechanism. Where only one needle or a very small number
of needles is used, the fabric may be quite stationary, the movement for
shaping the details of the pattern being imparted to, the frame or frames
carrying the clips; but where a large number of needles is used, it is preferred
to produce the desired effect by the movement of the fabric.
Another portion of the present Invention consists in applying any convenient
kind of pantographic movement to fabrics or materials stretched upon a frame
and acted upon by modifications of any of the various stitching or sewing
machines in use, such modifications comprehending two or more sets of the
stitching or sewing details so that the fabric or material may be acted upon at
two or more points at once, the work or device produced. being thus repeated
at each point. As one application of this portion of the. Invention, the
stitching or sewing mechanism referred to may be thereby made available in
the production of ornamental devices in imitation of lappet work..
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Matthew Dunnett in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
23rd October 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I;. MATTHEW
DUNNETT, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain, Manu-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent. Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of April in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twentieth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Matthew Dunnett, Her special licence that I, the said Matthew Dunnett, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said 'Matthew
Dunnett, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time-agree
with; and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should-and. lawfully-might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING
OR SEWING, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," upon the
condition (amongst others) that: I, the said Matthew Dunnett, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of

page_text: their hands and seals; should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said. Matthew Dunnett, do, hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per
formed, to be particularly described, and ascertained in and by the following
statement in writing, reference being bad toy the accompanying Drawings, and
to the letters: and figures marked thereon, that is to say:
My said Invention relates to various improvements; in embroidering.or
sewing, and in machinery or apparatus connected therewith,, and lias, chiefly
for object the production by machinery of sewed muslins and other orna-
mental fabrics in a more satisfactory, and economical manner than has hitherto
been attainable, whilst at the same time modifications of the improved system
are applicable to sewing of a non-ornamental, character......
And in order that the various, details, of my said Invention may be properly,
understood I have hereunto appended a Sheet of explanatory Drawings
relating to such parts thereof as cannot otherwise be so well comprehended,
and the herein-after contained references apply to the said Drawings, the like
letters marking the same or corresponding parts on the various Figures:
One modification of machinery or apparatus to which my improvements are
applicable is constructed, as regards its general features, according to 'a
well-known principle,, being capable of producing simultaneously any con-
venient number of, uniform repetitions, of the same, pattern by means of
a corresponding number of needles. The form of the ornamental, details
embroidered upon the fabric or material is produced either by the movement
of the frame carrying the fabric or by-that of the frame or frames carrying
the needles, and is derived from a pattern or design drawn to fan enlarged
scale, by means of which the movement referred to is regulated. When, as
is generally the case, the pattern is shaped by the movement of the fabric, the
latter is stretched between rollers or otherwise in a vertical frame mounted so,
as to be capable of moving in any direction in the plane of the fabric, whilst
it continues in; .every position parallel to the same, vertical and horizontal or
other, lines: Counterweights are applied to the frame to enable it. to moverin;
every direction, with equal.sfreedom, and it is usually connected to the fixed
framework of the machine by rods and guides arranged to retain it in one
plane, but allowing it to move freely in that plane.
.
According to one-plan, comprehended in the present Invention, the frame.
upon which the fabric is stretchied is arranged to move in horizontal or vertical,

page_text: grooves in a second frame, or slide, which last is capable, of moving at right
angles, to the first frame in grooves formed upon the fixed framework of the
machine..
da
A
The regulating movement by which the embroidered device is shaped may be
constructed on the principle of any, suitable. pantographic instrument;, but,
according to one plan, comprehended in the present, Invention,, it is con-
structed on the principle of the instrument known as the eidograph.. The
construction of this, instrument being well known I, liave not delineated.ition
the Sheet of Drawings hereunto appended; I may, however, briefly describe,
it as consisting of a lever capable of turning about a centre on the stationary
framing, and having jointed to it two bars, one at each extremity. On each
of these bars, and concentric with the joint, is fixed a pulley, and a steel band
is passed round the two pulleys so as to communicate any angular movement
of one bar, to the other. The extremity of one of the bars carries a pointer,
or tracer, which is moved by the attendant from point to point of the, enlarged,
pattern as the embroidering action goes on, this pattern, being mounted in
a convenient position for the purpose.... The extremity of the other bar carries,
a stud working in a socket in the frame carrying the fabric, and the frame
and fabric consequently move in accordance, with, the motion of the, tracing
point, the movement of the fabric. bearing a relation, to, that of the tracing
point depending on the proportions between the eidographic details by which
the movement. is imparted. The needle employed in this embroidering,
apparatus. is pointed at both ends, the thread being attached to an eye formed
at its longitudinal centre. The needles, in one, two, or more.rows, are, held,
by clips or holders upon carriages, by the movement of which they are
brought up to the fabric and passed through it. Being released on one side,.
the needles, are seized by clips or holders on the other side, and are drawn,
through the fabric by the recession of these clips or holders and their carriage
from it, to be again passed through it on the return of the carriage, the fabric,
being shifted in the interval in accordance with the pattern. The clips or
holding details may be variously contrived, provision being made for, seizing
and releasing the needles at the, proper times, and the frames or carriages
carrying the needles may be moved up to and away from the fabric either
by separate workers or by means of gearing actuated by the person working
the pantograph, It is usual to construct embroidering machines of this class,
to work two rows of needles, and the carriages,are each formed with two rows,
of holding details, such details, consisting, in the case of each needle, of a
bottom piece, or seat, in which a shallow groove. is formed to receive the
neeille, of a slotted piece screwed into the seat, and of a hammer or moveable,

page_text: piece which holds the needle in the groove, this last piece turning on a pin
in the slotted piece, and having a blade spring applied to press up its back
end. A convenient number of clips or holders formed in this way are fixed
and adjusted upon two horizontal bars running from end to end of the
carriage. According to my present Invention, however, the bottom pieces or
seats are dispensed with so as to simplify the construction, as shown in
Figures 1, 2, and 3 on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto appended.
Figure 1 is an end elevation of a portion of one of the carriages as
constructed for two rows of needles; and Figure 2 is a vertical section and
Figure 3 a plan, of one of the needle bars and some adjacent details. The
needle bars A 'are horizontal bars, truly planed on their upper surfaces and
bolted to the brackets B, constituting the framing of the carriage. These
bars A themselves constitute the seats or bottom pieces of the holding details,
being formed with grooves arranged at convenient distances along the bar to
receive the needles. Each bar A is slightly grooved at a determinate distance
from its front edge to receive-a-strip-of-metal-C,-which is slightly raised
above the surface of the bar, and prevents the needles from being pushed too
far back upon
the bar. The needles are held in their grooves when required
by the hammers D, turning on pins in little slotted pieces E, the hammers
being pressed down on the needles by the upward pressure of blade springs F
on their back ends. The needles are released by the depression of the back
ends of the hammers D by the eccentric shafts G, which are connected by
levers Hand links I, and which are turned at the proper times by means of
the handles J or by means of foot treadles.
According to another arrangement, represented in Figures 4, 5, and 6,4
Figure 4 being a vertical section, Figure 5, a plan, and Figure 6 a back
elevation, the hammers D are not made to turn on pins, as in Figures 2 and 3,
but are simply formed with angular notches on their upper edges, to enable
them to turn upon an inverted knife-edge piece K. This knife-edge piece is
fixed to a vertical-plate-E, formed with rectangular apertures, as shown in
Figure 6, through which apertures the hammers D are passed. According to
this arrangement also the bar Aris made very narrow, and a thin plate C is
introduced between it and an angle iron bar M, to which the vertical plate. L
is secured, the bar A, plate C, and bar M being firmly pinned together by
screws or otherwise, whilst the plate C, like the strip C in the arrangement -
represented in Figures 2 and 3; serves to prevent the needles from being pushed
too far back upon the bar. The springs Fare-inserted between the plate L
and bar M, the former being slightly recessed for the purpose below each
aperture. An important detail in the machine is that by which the threads

page_text: are tightened to a certain extent whilst they are being drawn through the
fabric. This detail consists of a rod N running along behind the needle bar A
and turning in bearings in the brackets B, this rod having fixed on each end
a weighted lever O, and a wire being usually stretched from the lever O at
one end to the lever O at the other end. The levers O are of such a length
that the wire moves up and down in front of the needle bar A, and the wire
rests upon and bears down the slack of the threads, tightening them and also
keeping them clear of the needle points. Instead of a wire I employ a thin
broad strip of wood, as shown at P in Figure 10, or a light metal tube, such
a strip or tube being stiffer and acting more uniformly throughout its entire
length than the mere wire. The rods N of the top and bottom rows of
needles are connected by levers Q and. links R, to make them work in
concert, and the levers Q come in contact with the eccentric shafts G, which
prevents the weighted levers O from depressing the wire or its substitute too
much. The outer ends of the rods N have likewise fixed on them forked
levers S, which on the carriage approaching the fabric, are acted upon by pins
T fixed upon the stationary framing, and are thereby made to turn over and
lift the wire or its substitute out of the way.
Amongst the various details composing my present improvements is a con-
trivance whereby the action of the wire, or its substitute, and levers O and rod
N, are made available for stopping the carriage the instant the threads are
drawn completely through the fabric and tightened. A small skid or brake
block U (Figure 1) of wood or other suitable material is applied between the
rail V and the front wheels W of the carriage. This skid or brake is actuated
by a lever X turning in a small bracket Y, bolted to the carriage. On the
ends of each rod N, and in addition to the levers. O and S, there is fixed
another small lever or wiper Z, in such a position that when the threads
become quite tight and, lift up the wire and levers O to a horizontal position;
as shown by the red lines in Figure 1, it will act on the brake lever.X, and
cause it to force the brake U under the wheel, and so stop the carriage. On
the carriage being moved towards the fabric again the wire and levers O fall;
and the wiper Z rising from the lever X a spring a causes the latter to
withdraw the brake. When the rod N is being turned by the action of the
fork S and stationary pin T, the wiper Z acts on the lever X for an instant aš
the carriage moves towards the fabric, but the upper end of the lever X is
curved, so that as the wiper Z continues to descend it clears it immediately,
whilst as the wheel is then, as it were, moving from the brake the latter has no
stopping effect. On the carriage beginning to recede from-the-fabric the
rod-N turns back again and lifts up the wiper Z, but its outer end is jointed

page_text: to its body portion, and being bevilled on its upper edge the upward movement
against the lever X causes the jointed end to move laterally and clear the
lever X without moving it. A spring applied to the jointed, end of the wiper
causes it to resume its; proper position for acting on the lever X.
In Figures 7,.8, and 9 is shown one mode in. which I guide, and counter
balance the frame upon which the fabric to be embroidered is stretched, At
the top and near each side of the frame b. Figure 7, there are fixed a pair of
brackets c on pivots, fixed to which is carried an accurately formed horizontal
roller d; between this roller and the frame there is a similar vertical roller c
arranged to turn on pivots carried in a bracket, f fixed, to the stationary.
framing 9: I may here remark that although I have. herein-before. described
a novel arrangement of grooves for guiding, the frame I find that in practice
the arrangement represented in Figure 7 is sufficiently suitable. The lower
part of the frame is guided by an upright rod i. (Figure 8) fixed to the
flooring,, this, rod being embraced by a slotted piece or elongated staple j. The
weight of the frame is supported or counterbalanced, by means of a pair of
levers-k-centred on two supports, bolted to the flooring m. The outer ends
of these levers & carry antifriction rollers n,, upon which the frame hrests,
whilst their inner ends are linked together, and, are connected by a link o to a
lever p below the flooring m, a weight.q being adjusted upon, this -lever p, so
as to accurately, balance the frame.
A further improvement comprehended under this portion of my Invention,
consists of an arrangement whereby four rows of needles may be worked
simultaneously in an embroidering machine of the ordinary size. The prin
cipal details of this arrangement are represented in Fig. 10, on the. Sheet
of Drawings hereunto appended, this Figure being a vertical section through
the needle bars A, the, eccentric shafts G, and the rods N, whilst the added
portions are marked by accented reference letters. The two added needle
bars A', with their appendages, are placed at a comparatively small distance,
above the original bars A, and as it is desirable that the distance between the
two sets may be adjustable to suit different patterns, the new bars A may be,
conveniently fixed to brackets B', similar to the original brackets B, the two.
sets of brackets: B and B being bolted together, as represented, through
elongated bolt holes admitting of adjustment as to the distance between the
bars A and A In the same way separate links. I, R, and I', R, correspond-
ing to the separate pairs of bars. A and A', may be employed, each link I
being bolted to the corresponding link I, and each link R to the correspond-,
ing link R', by elongated holes, as in the case of, the brackets. It is, however,
essential that the levers Hand H be set on their respective shafts G; G',rso,

page_text: that the shafts G are always a quarter: round from the position of the shafts
G', and so that the movement which depresses and opens. the hammers D,
shall allow the hammers: D' to close, and vice versa. It is also desirable, that
the needles of the upper bars Ashall not be, directly over the needles of
the lower bars A, in order that the threads of the upper rows of needles
inay not become tentangled with the lower rows of needles: Of course the
carriages: on both sides of the fabric are made exactly, alike. In explaining the
action of this arrangement, I will suppose that the needles on the upper bars
A.Figure 10, are being moved up to and through the fabric. At the same
time the carriage on the other side will be bringing the needles of the lower
bars As in the opposite direction. When all four rows of needles are passed
through the fabric, two rows from one side and two from the other, the
shafts GG are all turned, which has the effect of releasing the rows of the
bars A' on the side of the carriage shewn in Figure 10, and the rows corre
sponding to the bars A on the opposite side of the, fabric, whilst the rows iof
needles. thus released willrin each case be seized on the opposite side of the
fabric. Both carriages will. then recede from the fabric each carrying two
rows of needles, and drawing two lines of threads through the fabric. In this
way four rows of needles will be constantly in action, whilst there will never be
more than two sets of threads in a looped condition on either side of the fabric.
Another. portion of the present Invention consists in applying any con-
venient kind of pantographic movement to fabrics or materials stretched upon
a frame and acted-upon by modifications of any of the various stitching or
sewing machines in use, one such modification comprehending two or more
sets of the stitching or sewing details arranged so as to act in concert, and so
that the fabric or material may be operated upon at two or more points at
once, the work or device produced being thus repeated at each point. As
applications of this portion of the Invention, the stitching or sewing
mechanism referred to may be thereby made available in the production of
ornamental fabrics resembling lappets or tamboured goods.
Having now particularly described my said Invention, and the manner in
which the same is or may be used or carried into effect, I must state in con-
clusion, that what I consider to be novel and original, and therefore claim as
composing the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent, are,—
First, the system or mode of arranging the frame upon which the fabric is
stretched in embroidering machines, to move in horizontal or vertical grooves
upon a second frame moving in grooves formed upon the stationary framing
as herein-before described.

page_text: Second, the application and use, in embroidering machines of apparatus
constructed on the principle of the eidograph as herein-before described.
Third, the system's or modes of arranging and constructing the needle-
holding mechanism, herein-before described, and delineated on the Sheet of
Drawings hereunto appended.
Fourth, the application and use in embroidering machines of thin broad
strips of wood or light metal tubes for bearing the slack of the threads up
or down as herein-before described.
Fifth, the application and use in embroidering machines of brakes or skids
applied to the carriage wheels, and put into action so as to stop the carriage
when receding from the fabric on the threads becoming horizontal, as herein-
before described.
Sixth, the system or mode of arranging and constructing embroidering
machines to use four rows of needles as herein-before described, and shown in
Figure 10 on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto attached.
Seventh, the system or mode of employing a pantographic movement in
combination with stitching mechanism as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Matthew Dunnett, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of October in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
MATTHEW DUNNETT. (L.S.)