Ornamental Stitching may be Produced with it.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Aug., 1886.
Complete Left, 11th May, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 17th June, 1887.
Ornamental Stitching may be Produced with it.
I CARL OSWALD MÜLLER of the town of Burgstadt in the Kingdom of Saxony and
German Empire, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention to
be as follows:-
My invention relates to the production of four thread ornamental sewing in various
designs by employing Grover-Baker sewing machines and two circular needles and
two vertical needles operating in such manner that either the smaller or both of the
circular needles will lay it on their thread or threads in the loops of the threads from
the upper needles and thus produce fourthreaded ornamental stitches on the stuff
operated on.
The aforementioned fourthreaded ornamental stitches are produced by means of
two vertical needles arranged side by side and two circular needles arranged one
above the other. The application of two circular needles is rendered possible by
changing the direction in which the stuff is transported i.e. the material to be sewn is
not transported in the direction of the eye of the needle as customary in Grover
Baker machines but at a right angle to the said eye of the needle so that the right
hand circular needles will gear into the loop of the left hand vertical needle and the
left hand circular needle into the loop of the right hand vertical needle.
Various kinds of stitches can be attained by varying the speed of the circular
needles for instance from 100 to 250 movements per minute or more or less as may
be desired.
1002
C. O. MÜLLER.
Per W. H. Beck,
115, Cannon Street, London, E.C.,
Agent.

page_text: Ornamental Stitching may be Produced with it.
I, CARL OSWALD MÜLLER of the town of Burgstadt in the Kingdom of Saxony and
German Empire, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed; to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to the production of four-thread ornamental sewing in
various designs by employing Grover Baker sewing machines and two circular
needles and two vertical needles operating in such manner that either the smaller or
both of the circular needles will lay its or their thread or threads in the loops of the
threads from the upper needles and thus produce four-thread ornamental stitches on
the stuff operated on.
I have represented the various positions of the needle during the operation of
forming the ornamental stitches, in the accompanying drawing, in which,
Figures 1, 2 and 3 represent the operation of producing the ornamental stitch as
shown in Figure 4.
Figures 5, 6 and 7 represent the operation of producing the ornamental stitches
shown in Figure 8.
Figures 9, 10 and 11 represent the operation of producing the ornamental stitches
as shown in Figure 12.
Figure 13 shows an ornamental stitch, produced by the employment of only two
threads.
The aforementioned fourthread ornamental stitches are produced by means of the
two vertical needles n³ n* arranged side by side and two vertical circular needles c¹ c
arranged one above the other. The application of the circular needles c¹³ is rendered
possible by changing the direction in which the stuffs is transported in the direction
of the eye of the needle as customary in Grover Baker machines but at a right angle
to the said eye of the needle so that the right hand circular needle c¹ will into
gear
the loop of the left hand vertical needle n¹ and the left hand circular needle into the
loop of the right hand vertical needle n².
can produce various kinds of stitches by varying the speed of the circular needles
for instance from 100 to 250 movements per minute or more or less as may be
desired. The three various kinds of stitches described in this specification are attained
by employing circular needles one of which oscillates a distance equal to 240 degrees,
the other to 120 degrees of the circle they describe and in order to more clearly
define said needles I will designate the former the "long" and the latter the "short
circular needle.

page_text: The ornamental stitch represented in Figure 4 is produced by employing a short
circular needle and a long circular needle c¹; the design shown in Figure 8 by
the use of two short circular needles and that shown in Fig. 12 is attained by the
employment of two long circular needles.
The three principal movements of my improved sewing mechanism is represented
by the Figures 1, 2 and 3.
The operation of the combination of vertical and circular needles to produce four-
thread ornamental stitches with Grover Baker sewing machines, is as follows.
As soon as the upper or vertical needles n¹n have commenced their upward
movement and formed the loops d' (Figure 1) the lower circular needle c³ will gear
into the loop of the needle n² and when the upper needles have been transported a
certain distance above the circular needles, the circular needle c¹ will engage into the
loop formed by n¹, whereupon the circular needles will have completed one revolution
and the upper needles will be in their highest position (see Figure 2). After the
stuff or fabric s operated on has now been transported or moved for the length of one
stitch in the direction of the arrow 4, the upper vertical needles n¹ n² will move
downwards and penetrate through the holes (shown in Figure 2) between the circular
needles, so that the thread f¹ will be located behind and the thread between said
needles nn². Immediately the points of the vertical needles pass the surface of
the circular needles, these said circular needles will suddenly turn in the direction
of the arrows 5 and 6, which causes the thread f¹ to lay itself around both needles n¹ n³,
whereas thread will lay itself only around n², whereupon f¹ will be drawn through
the loop d¹ and through the loop d', (Fig. 3).
The circular needles c¹² are retained in this position until the upper vertical
needles n n have moved so far upwards that the said circular needles can grip or
engage into the loops of n' n³, upon which the afore-described operation is repeated.
The ornamental stitches produced by these manipulations consists of two double
chain stitches, running in close proximity and parallel to each other, the loops made
by means of the circular needle e¹ being interwoven with the loops produced by the
upper vertical needle n².
Precisely the same operation is carried out for producing the series of stitches as
shown in Figure 8, the only difference being that two small or short circular needles
are employed in order that both threads f¹ and fare caused to lay themselves between
the needles n³ ³ (as shown in Figure 6) and so that each one of the said threads is
made to embrace only one of the vertical needles. By this means the double chain
stitches are made to run parallel with each other, but not connected or interwoven as
represented in Figure 4.
In order, however, to manufacture or produce the ornamental sewing represented
in Figure 12, it is necessary to employ two long circular needles (Figures 9, 10 and 11)
so that, in the position shown in Figure 10, the threads are located behind the
upper vertical needles n¹ n², and embrace or wind themselves around both of the said
vertical needles, as represented in Figure 11.
In the fourthread ornamental stitches illustrated by Figure 12, the loops of the
rows of stitches engage with or are interlocked with the loops produced by the upper
threads d¹ d.
In order to be able to readily thread the circular needles, said needles c¹ c³ instead
of having their thread openings at the side, are provided with a suitable recess or
groove in the top, which said recess or groove is bridged or covered by one, two or
more pieces of metal or other suitable material.
From the foregoing specification it will be evident that my sewing mechanism can
be effectually operated even if one of the upper vertical needles and its corresponding
lower or circular needle are not threaded, and if operated in this manner, the other
circular needle will entwine its thread round both of the upper vertical needles
and so produce elongated loops of various lengths along the side of the stitches.
(Figure 13).
In this way it is possible to also produce a series of wide ornamental stitches by
employing two threads only.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
A double chain stitch machine for producing the herein described fourthreaded
ornamental stitches, in which two circular needles c¹³ operate in conjunction with
two upper vertical needles n' n' in such manner that either one, both or none of the
circular needles will lay their threads around both of the said upper needles n' n³,
substantially as described in the foregoing specification and shown in the accompanying
drawings.