Improvements in Apparatus for Lasting Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Dec., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 22nd Sept., 1894-Accepted, 10th Nov., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Lasting Boots and Shoes.
I CHARLES EVANS BIRD, of 32 Maple Street, Northampton, Shoe Manufacturer
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to machinery and apparatus used in the manufacture of
that class of boots and shoes which has the upper turned outwards from the last for
the purpose of being united to the sole instead of being turned inwards over the
last as is the ordinary method.
The invention comprises a lasting machine which in addition to any or all of the
suitable parts usually employed for lasting boots and shoes in the ordinary manner
is provided with grippers or jaws which clip around the upper and grip the same
to the last at or near the edge of the last where the sole and upper are to meet.
These grippers are formed with an inner surface of a contour following that of the
edge of the bottom of the last and with an upper surface following the curves of
the bottom of the last so that the boot upper instead of being turned inwards over
the last may be turned outwards upon the upper surface of the grippers, or upon a
welt laid upon the grippers, in such a manner that the inner surface of the
edge of the boot upper or lining shall form a surface bordering the bottom of
the last.
The grippers are actuated at the proper times by suitable mechanism consisting
of cams, toggles and connections or other convenient arrangements operated by the
machine.
The last is supported so that it can be properly adjusted to the grippers and
other parts to suit the nature of the work in hand.
A hold-down is provided to hold the last against the strains of the lasting
operations and is actuated, so as to alternately hold and release the last, by cam
and toggle or other suitable mechanism from some moving part of the machine.
Tongs and pincers for gripping the edges of the boot upper are provided and
suitably operated to strain the upper in the desired directions to ensure the proper
lasting of the upper and fingers or wiper plates are provided and operated in
conjunction with the pincers, by means of wedges or cams, for the purpose of
smoothing out the edges of the upper over the grippers or over the welt laid upon
the grippers.
A suitably formed and adjustable pressing plate or pad is arranged so that it can
be brought over and down upon the boot sole for the purpose of pressing the sole
on to the last and edges of the upper, being actuated somewhat in the same manner
as the hold down, and cement, tacks or bracing thread may be employed to
temporarily secure the sole to the upper. In this connection a hand or power
tacking instrument may be employed.
The grippers or jaws may be made in sections or with separate parts for the toe
and heel so as to adapt themselves to the shape of the last.
The pressing plate may be made in sections also or otherwise arranged so as
to be adjustable or to adapt itself to the contour of the last and thickness of the
hoot sole.
The invention also comprises apparatus in the form of a machine for hand use
as follows:-
A last support with the grippers or jaws adjustably mounted thereon and capablė
of being closed upon the upper by screw or other pressure.
A pressing plate or pad brought down by toggle lever or other pressure, upon
the boot sole

page_text: Spring or screw clips may be employed to hold the upper and sole in close
contact until the cement is set and adjustable gauges may be arranged around
the edges of the sole to ensure the latter being truly set in relation to the last.
It will be understood that the foregoing operations are preparatory to the
permanent union of the sole to the upper by stitching or other means.
Dated this 21st day of December 1893.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Lasting Boots and Shoes.
I CHARLES EVANS BIRD of 32 Maple Street Northampton, Shoe Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention relates to machinery and apparatus used in the manufacture of
that class of boots and shoes which has the upper turned outwards from the last
for the purpose of being united to the sole instead of being turned inwards over the
last as is the ordinary method and consists in the employment in a lasting machine
of grippers which clip around the upper and grip the same to the last at or near
the edge of the last where the sole and upper are to meet. These grippers are
formed with an inner surface of a contour following that of the edge of the bottom
of the last and with an upper surface following the curves of the bottom of the
last so that the boot upper instead of being turned inwards over the last may be
turned outwards upon the upper surface of the grippers, or upon a welt laid upou
the grippers, in such a manner that the inner surface of the edge of the boot upper
or lining shall form a surface bordering the bottom of the last.
The grippers are actuated at the proper times by suitable mechanism consisting
of cams, toggles and connections or other convenient arrangements operated by
the machine.
The last is supported so that it can be properly adjusted to the grippers and
other parts to suit the nature of the work in hand.
A hold down is provided to hold the last against the strains of the lasting
operations and is actuated, so as to alternately hold down and release the last, by
cam and toggle or other suitable mechanism from some moving part of the
machine.
Tongs and pincers for laying hold of the edges of the boot upper are provided
and suitably operated to strain the upper in the desired directions to ensure the
proper lasting of the upper and fingers or wiper plates are provided and operated
in conjunction with the pincers by means of wedges, cams or other means for the
purpose of smoothing out the edges of the upper over the grippers or over the welt
faid upon the grippers.
A suitably formed and adjustable pressing plate is arranged so that it can be
brought over and down upon the boot sole for the purpose of pressing the sole on to
the last and edges of the upper being actuated somewhat in the same manner as
the hold down and cement, tacks or other suitable means may be employed to
temporarily secure the sole to the upper. In this connection a hand or power
tacking instrument may be employed.
The grippers are capable of adjustment relatively to the last and may be made
in sections or with separate parts for the toe and heel so as to adapt themselves to
the shape of the last.
The pressing plate may be made in sections also or otherwise arranged so as to
be adjustable or to adapt itself to the contour of the last and thickness of the boot
sole.

page_text: The invention also comprises apparatus in the form of a machine for hand
s follows:-
use,
!
A last support with the grippers adjustably mounted thereon and capable of being
closed upon the upper by screw or other pressure.
A pressing plate brought down by toggle lever or other pressure upon the
boot sole.
Spring or screw clips may be employed to hold the upper and sole in close
contact until the cement is set and adjustable gauges may be arranged around the
edges of the sole to ensure the latter being truly set in relation to the last.
It will be understood that the foregoing operations are preparatory to the
permanent union of the sole to the upper by stitching or other means.
The invention is illustrated by the accompanying drawings in which,
Fig. 1 is a side view of a lasting machine.
Fig. 2 is a front view of the same.
Fig. 3 is a side view of a hand machine.
Fig. 4 is a front view of the same.
Figs. 5 and 6 shew a method of adjusting the last.
Fig. 7 is a longitudinal section of a pressing plate made in sections.
Fig. 8 is a cross section shewing a modification of the grippers, the fingers and
the pressing plate with a last and boot.
Fig. 9 is a plan of the grippers made in sections.
Fig. 10 is an elevation of the same.
Fig. 11 is one section of the grippers with adjustable sole gauges.
Fig. 12 is the same but with fixed sole gauges and notches for the clips.
Figs. 13 and 14 shew spring clips for holding the sole to the upper.
Figs. 15 and 16 shew screw clips for the same purpose.
Figs. 17, 18, and 19 shew the adjustable gauge detached.
Fig. 20 is a cross section through the forepart of a shoe.
The frame a. (Figs. 1 and 2) carries the driving shaft b. in the bearings ¿¹ b².
The driving pulleys are mounted on one end of the driving shaft b. and a
crank is formed in the middle of the length of the shaft b. The mechanism for
gripping the upper to the last is constructed in the following manner :-
Opposite the crank & and arranged so that it may be engaged and actuated by
the same is a connecting rod 6 which at its forward end is jointed to the toggles b' b
upon pins and at its rear end is provided with a yielding piece 60 and an elastic
cushion 61 to lessen the shock caused by the crank when engagement takes place.
The engagement of the crank with the piece 60 is brought about when desired
by means of the treadle " which is carried upon a pivot in the frame a. and is
connected by a link 6 and pins & 61 to the connecting rod 6º.
The lower toggle b' is carried on pins 17 618 in the frame a. and the upper,
toggle is jointed on a pin b¹ to a vertical bar 6 which is free to slide up and
down in bearings 6" 6" formed in the frame a.
The bar is provided with a wedge shaped cam 6 at its upper end which
operates between the lower ends 662 of the gripping levers which are mounted
on shafts and carry at their upper ends the grippers 0 61 which clip the
upper . upon the last. Antifriction rolls 66 are provided to engage the
wedge cam 28.
The
The
The action of the crank & through the rod & straightens the toggles '68 so as
to raise the wedge cam 6" and close the grippers 630 6 upon the upper.
releasing of the grippers 60 is accomplished by operating the treadle 6 which is
carried upon the pivot 6 in the frame a. and is provided with a toothed quadrant &*
which gears with another quadrant 6 mounted on a shaft in the frame a
shaft 6 is provided with a lever b adapted to engage a lug " on the rod 6 so as
to push it backwards and pull upon the toggles b' so as to draw them out of the
vertical when, assisted by the weight of the bar, the toggles drop upon their
faces 6061 and the wedge cam 6" is thus withdrawn so as to allow the grippers 606
to fall open and release the boot upper™z.

page_text: The holding down of the last 2 against the strains of the lasting operations is
accomplished in the following manner :-
The hold down c, which may be of any usual construction, is carried on the lower
end of a vertical bar c', which is supported by the levers cc, from the frame a, upon
joint pins cc: the levers being mounted upon the shafts cc. The lever extends
backwards with an arm c" which is acted upon when desired by a vertical rod c
provided at its lower end with an eccentric e mounted upon the driving shaft b.
The action of the eccentric causes the rod c to rise and fall and the rod is put into
and out of engagement with the arm ca by means of a bell crank handle c" which is
mounted on a pin c" in the frame a. and connected by a link c¹ and joint pins c" cla
to the rod c. A stop c¹ limits the movement of the handle c" and consequently of
the rod in both directions.
To maintain the pressure of the hold down c. upon the last 2¹ a toothed
quadrant c and pawl care provided the latter being mounted in the frame a. on
a pin and provided with a heavy handle to keep it in engagement.
So that the hold down c. may yield to varying thickness of soles or heights of
last a spring is provided and for varying the pressure exercised by this spring a
hand nut The spring lifts the hold down c. when the pawl c is released.
The pressing plate d. (which in the drawing is shewn out of action) is carried
upon one arm of a bell crank d' the other arm d' of which forms the connection
between the hold down c. and the bar c' previously described. This bell crank d
is mounted on a pin d' on which it may be turned so as to bring either the hold
down c. or the pressing plate d. into use as required and a spring catch d' is
provided to maintain the same in position.
The pincers which lay hold of and pull up the upper z, are constructed and
operate as follows :-
The shaft previously referred to, has mounted upon it four arms e. e¹ e³ e³
which carry at their forward ends horizontal bars from which depend the
pincers eeee. The pincers are carried on beams euell and in order that the
upward pull or strain upon the upper a. may be regulated springs e¹³ e¹³ and
adjusting nuts els els are provided on the depending rods e" e".
A hinged ratchet e engages one arm of the pincers so as to maintain the
same closed upon the upper a. and the ratchet els may be tripped by hand (or if
desired by the machine in a manner usual on lasting machines) when it is desired
to release the pincers from the upper . For putting an upward pull upon the
pincers a handle 60 is provided which is pivotted in the frame a. on a pin e" and
has an arme extending horizontally backwards to which a strap is connected.
The strap passes under a pulley on the driving shaft b. and is connected by
a rode to a lever es fast to the same shaft c which carries the arms e. e¹ e² e
previously described.
When the handle is drawn forward, away from its stop ", it pulls up the
strap into contact with the pulley e which then by its friction thereon pulls
down the back portion of the strap and rod so as to operate the lever e
and by raising the arms e. e¹³e pulls up the pincers ee ee and draws the upper z.
into close contact with the last x. A toothed quadrant and pawle maintain
the tension upon the upper z. as long as desired. The pincers may be moved to
any desired position upon the bars ee.
The fingers or wiper plates which smooth out the edges of the upper over the
grippers, or welt laid thereon, are constructed and operated as follows:-
The fingers f. are mounted on pivots f¹ at the ends of levers f which at the
sides of the last are mounted cn the shafts 128 129 and at the ends of the last on
shafts in such a manner that they offer a certain resistance to turning thereon
(being fitted with a split spring boss, friction washers, or equivalent device, not
shewn).
Loosely mounted upon the same shafts 6
arm of which in conjunction with a link
and 6" 6" are bell cranks fone
form toggles which are connected, in
a manner so se to be conable it diL ALADDE
L

page_text: The other arms f' of the bell cranks fare connected by rods f* to a lever f" by
which the fingers f. are operated thus:- -When the rods fs are lifted the bell
crank's first bends the toggle f f so as to draw down the extension f* and raise
the finger f. off from the grippers 60 61. The arm of the bell crank f' then
takes upon a stop provided on the lever and carries it and the raised finger f.
inwards over the edge of the upper x. When the rods f" are drawn down the
first action of the bell crank is to straighten the toggleff and draw down
the finger f. upon the last . after which the straightened toggle pulls outwards
upon the extension so as to cause the finger to smooth out the edge of the
upper 2. upon the grippers 606. A further drawing down of the rods f* (after
the boot sole is placed and pressed down) draws the fingers f. further outwards and
altogether clear of the now turned down edge 2 of the upper z.
17
The lever is operated as follows:-It is mounted on a pivot f in the frame a.
and is provided with a sliding bar above and another "below. These
bars are provided with teeth f" and " engaging a pinion 16 mounted on a
fixed stud in the lever so that any endlong movement of the upper bar "
is communicated in the opposite direction to the lower bar". These movements
are given by a handle 18 and lever f" mounted on a pivot 20 in the frame a. and
connected by a link to the upper bar ". A notch plate" and catch" serve
to maintain the handle f18 in any desired position.
25
12
29
The machine actuates the lever f' thus :-The before mentioned rod c carries
a stud" having a link 72 jointed by a pin fat its lower end to a slide f" free
to move up and down on the frame a and provided with a lugf for the purpose
of engaging one or other of the bars ff, according as desired, by the setting
of the handle 18. The lug 28 has a step which, on the upward stroke of the
rod c, when the lower surface 30 engages the bar f" first straightens the
toggles ff and presses down the fingers f. and then moves outwards the fingers f
sufficiently to smooth down the edge of the upper c. upon the grippers 620 61
and when the upper surface of the step" engages the bar " withdraws the
fingers f. altogether from the edge of the upper x. When the surface f" of the
lug engages, on the downward stroke of the rod c, the bar f¹³ the fingers f. are
first raised by the bending of the toggles ƒ ƒ and then moved inwards over the
last x².
The invention may be applied to a machine to be used by hand instead of being
driven by power in the following manner :-
The machine (see Figs. 3 and 4) may consist of a bed a¹ and pillar a³ carried
upon legs a³ and with a last support, grippers and pressing plate as follows:-
The grippers 8 64 are carried upon the levers 646 on which they may be
adjusted in any desired direction by means of the crossed slots 6 6 and screws 6650.
The levers 66 are carried on pivots 6" 6" in the frame a and are operated so as
to open and close the grippers 64 by right and left hand screws engaging
trunnion nuts, in the levers 66. The screws are carried in bearings
formed in the frame a* and operated by hand wheels 67.
The pressing plate d is carried on a sliding bar d and operated by means of a
toggle d d and hand lever do a weight d" being provided to hold up the pressing
plate when in its raised position and to assist in pressing down the same when
lowered upon the boot sole .
So that the pressing plate d' may be moved out of the way the head frame a*
which carries it is arranged to turn upon the pillar a² and thus make room for the
ordinary hand lasting operation to be performed, which is done prior to the closing
of the grippers ¿48 644.
A method of adjusting the last, relatively to the grippers and to the hold down
is shewn in Figs. 5 aud 6.
The last is carried upon a stand g. near the heel and upon a toe rest g¹ near
the toe each of which has a screw 9 and 9 formed upon its lower end. The
screws g³ ³ pass down through nuts g*g* which are fitted so that they are free to

page_text: '
be turned in blocks g° 9' and the blocks 9' 9' are fitted so that they may be made
to slide in a bed plate 98. Set screws 9' 9" being provided to maintain the
blocks 9° 9' in any position in which they may be set.
Fig. 7 is a longitudinal section of a pressing plate made in sections so that it will
adapt itself to the contour of the bottom of the last. Each section d d d d is
provided with springs d which yield more or less to the shape of the last and
they are faced with indiarubber, leather or other elastic or flexible material du.
A shell is encloses them which is attached to a plate. Slots & are provided
in the shell d¹ and pegs d" in the sections d¹ to prevent the same from falling
out.
b
Fig. 8 is a cross section shewing a modified construction of the grippers
the fingers "f" and the pressing plate d" with a last r' upper z. and boot
Bole.
The grippers 687 688 are bolted in slots 6660 to the levers 61 es so as to be
adjustable and are provided with gauge stops h. by means of which the sole can
be accurately set. The fingers are shaped as shewn the one f" being in
the position in which the machine places it when holding down the edge of the
upper . and the other 3 in the position it assumes after being withdrawn from the
upper edge and raised by the machine just previous to being moved inwards
over the last æ¹.
Figs. 9 and 10 shew the grippers made in sections which may either be as shewn
by the full lines in which case the toe and heel sections would
open end wise of the boot or the sections may be divided on the dotted lines
and open sidewise.
Fig. 11 shews a gripper with adjustable sole gauges
slots (see also Figs. 17, 18 and 19) and screws h³.
7,70
which are provided with
Fig. 12 shews a gripper but with notches i. to permit of the clips (see Figs. 13,
14, 15 and 16) for holding the sole to the upper being used.
be used for the
Figs. 13 and 14 shew a spring clip which is pressed on over the edge of the
sole and upper so as to hold them together while cement is setting or
sewing being done and Figs. 15 and 16 shew a screw clip which
same purpose. The jaw j. is hinged to the jaw j upon a pin and a screw j³
serves to close the jaws together upon the sole and upper ².
may
Fig. 20 is a cross section through the forepart of a shoe shewing the class of
boot or shoe to which this invention is applicable. The edges ³ of the upper_..
are turned outwards, the sole laid thereon and united to the upper x. by
stitching through the edges of both sole and upper.
The machine as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 is operated as follows :-
18
The last with the upper a. is placed in the machine upon the stand g" and toe
rest . The hold down c. is then lowered and pressed down upon the last ¹ by
operating the handle e". The pincers ee ee are then closed upon the edge.
of the upper . and the handle operated so as to strain the upper x. about the
last. The grippers 680 681 are then closed upon the upper a. by operating
the treadle ". The pincers are next released and the fingers f. are operated by the
handle so as to smooth out the edge of the upper . upon the surface of the
grippers The hold down c is then released by operating the handle cand
cement, if used, is applied around the edge a³ of the upper . A sole is then laid
upon the last and outwardly turned edges of the upper and the pressing plate d. is
turned down and pressed upon the sole in the same manner as was the hold down c.
upon the last. The fingers f. are then withdrawn by operating the handle ₤18 and
the clips (Figs. 13 to 16) are placed for temporarily holding the sole to the upper.
The pressing plate d. and the grippers 66 are then released and the boot taken
out to make room for another.
If cement is not used tacks are driven around the edge of the sole, being kept far
enough out to be out of the way of the permanent sewing which has to be
afterwards done.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
In machinery or apparatus used in lasting that class of boots and shoes in
which the sole is attached by being stitched through to the turned back edge of
the upper:
1. The grippers for clipping the upper to the last so constructed that the edge
of the upper may be turned back outwards over the surface of the grippers, in the
manner and for the purpose described.
2. The fingers or wiper plates for turning the edge of the upper back outwards
over the grippers as described.
3. The pressing plate for pressing the sole into contact with the edge of the
upper which is turned back over the grippers as described.
4. Making the grippers in sections in order that they may better adapt them-
selves to the shape of the last as described.
5. Making the pressing plate in sections so that it may better adapt itself to
the shape of the last bottom as described.
6. The use of the fixed or adjustable gauges to ensure the sole being correctly
placed upon the last as described.
7. The use of the spring or screw clips for holding together the sole and the
upper of a boot, before they are permanently united by sewing or other means,
combined with the grippers and pressing plate as described.
8. The combination of the grippers with a hold down as and for the purpose
specified.
9. The combination of the grippers with a pressing plate as and for the purpose
described.
10. The combination of the grippers and the hold down with lasting pincers as
described and for the purpose specified.
11. The combination with the grippers of fingers or wiper plates for smoothing
out the upper as described and for the purpose specified.
12. The combined machine as herein described and illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2.
and for the purpose specified.
13. The combined machine as herein described and illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4
and for the purpose specified.
Dated this 21st day of September 1894.
W. H. DORMAN,
Agent for Applicant.