IMPROVEMENTS IN BUSTLES AND CRINOLINES, AND IN MATERIALS USED IN THEIR CONSTRUCTION.
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julien Smadja, of 16, Stamford Street, of the Parish
of Christ Church, in the County of Surrey, Merchant, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUSTLES AND CRINOLINES, AND IN MATERIALS USED IN
THEIR CONSTRUCTION.
Sealed the 12th September 1862, and dated the 15th March 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julien Smadja at. the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 15th
March 1862.
I, JULIEN SMADJA, of 16, Stamford Street, of the Parish of Christ Church,.
in the County of Surrey, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUSTLES AND CRINOLINES, AND IN MATERIALS
USED IN THEIR CONSTRUCTION," to be as follows:-
The improvements apply in the first place to a mode of constructing bustles
or dress improvers of metallic wires or tubes, or of rods of whalebone or other
suitable material covered when required with fabric; these are attached to a
flexible band or strap in such a manner that when it is tied as a girdle on the
waist the wires, tubes, or rods radiate therefrom in loops arranged so as to
form curved brackets supporting the dress.
My improvements apply in the second place to a mode of constructing

page_text: crinoline, in the upper part of which I introduce an arrangement of such
radiating loops to support principally the hinder part of the dress.
And my improvements apply in the third place, to materials used in con-
structing bustles and crinolines, the curved or looped portions of which I
prefer to make of wire or tube covered with a fabric of cotton, linen, or other
suitable materials, such wire or tube being of steel or other elastic material,
and being of such section, round, square, or polygonal, that it may be readily
bent in any direction.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julien Smadja in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
13th September 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIEN
SMADJA, of 16, Stamford Street, of the Parish of Christ Church, in the
County of Surrey, Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-fifth of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Julien Smadja, Her special licence that I, the said Julien Smadja, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Julien
Smadja, my executors, administrators, and assigns, shall in any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
BUSTLES AND CRINOLINES, AND IN MATERIALS USED IN THEIR CONSTRUCTION," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Julien Smadja, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office, within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julien Smadja, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be a
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following

page_text: statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawing hereto annexed, and
to the figures and letters marked thereon, that is to say:-
In the Drawing Figure 1 represents a plan of the new bustle or dress
improver, and Figure 2 represents. a transverse section. A, A, is a band of
steel or other suitable material furnished with strings B; B; by which it can be
tied round the waist. The band A, A, a portion of which is represented in
elevation in Figure 3, is indented at several places to receive a doubled
wire C, C, which is bent and doubled to form loops and rings. projecting and
radiating outwards from the band A, A. The doubles of the wires are secured
in the indentations of the band by bending over it the projecting ends of small
metallic plates D, of the form represented in Figures 3 and 4, and the general
forms of the several flexures of the wire are maintained by ties or metallic.
bands E turned round the wires at their points of meeting. The wire C, C,
may be of steel or any other suitable metal, or it may be replaced for the sake
of lightness by a tube, or by whalebone or gutta percha, and it, as well as
band A, A, may be covered by any suitable fabric.
In applying my Invention to crinoline or any other petticoats I prefer to
make the bustle, as above described, separately, and attach it to the upper
part of such petticoat; and instead of strings I sometimes employ a fastening
represented in Figures 5 and 6; it consists of a thin plate of metal of the
form represented in Figure 5, the ends of which F, F, F, I bend and pinch
over the ends of the band A, A, so as to hold them firmly, and the other end
of which G, I bend backwards, as indicated in Figure 6, so as to form a hook
which can take into a button-hole or eye provided in the band of the petticoat
to which the bustle is to be attached.
It may be readily understood that in forming the bustle above described it
is necessary to bend the wire tube or rod in several directions, and I there-
fore employ it of round, square, or polygonal section, instead of the flat strip
or band ordinarily used, and I cover it with a fabric of cotton, linen, or other
suitable material.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same
to be performed, I would have it understood that I do not confine
myself to the particular forms or proportions represented in the Drawing; but
I claim as my Invention,-
First, the mode of constructing bustles or dress improvers by means of
wires, tubes, or rods radiating in curved loops from a waist band or girdle.
Second, the mode of attaching the bent wires, tubes, or rods to the girdle
and the fastenings used for that purpose.

page_text: Third, the application of bustles or dress improvers so constructed to
petticoats, and the mode of attaching them thereto, as above described.
And, lastly, the application of round, square, or polygonal wires, tubes, or
rods, instead of flat strips or bands, covered with suitable fabrics, to bustles,
dress improvers, crinoline, or other petticoats.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julien Smadja, have heretofore set my
hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.