Improvements in the Method of and in Apparatus for the Production of Double Woven Frisé Fabrics in Power Looms.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Nov., 1888
Specification Accepted, 15th Jan., 1889
Improvements in the Method of and in Apparatus for the Production
of Double Woven Frisé Fabrics in Power Looms.
We HERMANN MÜLLERS and ARTHUR SPINDLER of Dülken in the Kingdom of
Prussia Empire of Germany, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of this
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement and accompanying drawings:-
Our said Invention relates to improvements in the production of frisé fabrics by
means of power looms, two fabrics being woven simultaneously. Hitherto it has
been customary to produce frisé fabrics made from silk, wool, cotton or other suitable
textile materials and either plain or figured by means of hand looms, or by power
looms using wires. According to our present invention such goods can be produced
in power looms by double weaving, that is to say by weaving one piece over the other
both pieces being simultaneously produced as frisé fabrics. Double pile goods are
produced either with one shuttle or by means of two shuttles in double shuttle
looms, the said two shuttles being shot simultaneously through the upper and
lower webs. As is well known, when weaving frisé goods by means of looms
with wires the frisé knobs are produced by laying in special fancy wires which
are not cut out but are drawn sidewise out of the fabric. But in the weaving
of double velvet goods as no such wires can be put in, the formation of the
frisé knobs is effected in accordance with our invention by means of a special weft
thread or pick. This weft thread which we will call the frisé pick does not bind into
either of the two main tissues but lies between them and is utilised to form the frisé
knobs. Before the separation of the two pieces from each other the frisé threads are
removed during or after the weaving. For producing such goods with one shuttle no
new mechanism is required but for the production of double goods with two shuttles
a special mode of changing the shuttles is required.
Referring to the accompanying drawings:-
Fig. 1 is a section of a double fabric taken in the direction of the warp and
produced in accordance with our invention with one shuttle.
Fig. 2 is a section of the same in the direction of the weft.
Fig. 3 is a section of a double fabric in the direction of the warp and is intended
to illustrate the production of figured velvets and plushes with frisé figures with one
shuttle.
Fig. 4 is a section in the direction of the warp of a plain frisé fabric woven double
with two shuttles..
Fig. is a similar section of similarly woven figured frisé goods.
Figs. 6 and 7 are views of apparatus for throwing at will two shuttles or only one
frisć weft shuttle.

page_text: For producing plain frisé goods with one shuttle the binding shown in Figs. 1 and 2
is used a and bare the pile threads. The warp threads 2. y are shown in Figs. 1 to 5
in dotted lines. The numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, indicate the succession in which
the ground picks . (Figs. 1 to 5) are alternately put into the upper and lower
pieces. The series ends with the 9th pick which is the frisé pick. As can be seen
from Fig. 1 the frisé pick must follow the 8th pick. The pile threads of the top
piece cross those of the bottom piece and the frisé pick is put into this pile shed
without deviating into the ground tissue. At the next pick the pile threads.,
again into the former position and in consequence close around the frisé thread which
has been last put in and thus the frisé knobs are formed.
back
In the production of figured velvets or plush with frisé effects by means of one
shuttle care must be exercised to produce with the same pick partly cut velvet and
partly looped velvet. In producing such goods by the said means the frisé knobs
must always be formed first and then the cut piles.
As may be seen from Fig. 3 the pile threads of the picks 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6 work in
the ground tissue. At pick 7, which is the frisé pick, only the pile threads (which
form the frise) cross. At picks 8 and 9 the frisé pile threads return to their former
position and in consequence close around the frisé pick and thus form the frisé knob.
In completing these goods the frisé thread is drawn out and then the two pieces may be
cut as is usual in double velvet looms by means of a reciprocating knife. The knife
does not cut the frisé knobs which have been left free. The production of plain and
figured frisé goods by means of two shuttles as illustrated by Figs. 4 and 5 is effected
in so far as regards the mode of binding exactly as with one shuttle but with a
different succession of the ground picks as then the latter are put into the ground
tissue simultaneously and thus the ground tissue is simultaneously formed.
In looms with two shuttles two picks are always put in simultaneously but in the
formation of the frisé knobs only one pick, viz. the frisé pick, must be put in so that
a triple box and three shuttles must be used and actuated so as to permit either the
two shuttles for the upper and lower webs to be thrown simultaneously or the single
frisé pick shuttle. Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate this shuttle changing mechanism. In
Fig. 6 the picker p is represented as throwing the two ground pick shutiles a and b
simultaneously while in Fig. 7 the triple shuttle box has been lowered and the
We have not shown any
picker is acting upon the single frisé pick shuttle c.
p
particular means for raising and lowering the triple shuttle box as this can be done
by known and existing apparatus and forms no part of our invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
(1) The method of producing frisé effects in double woven velvet goods by putting
in a special pick which we term a frisé pick which does not bind into the ground
tissues and which is afterwards withdrawn previous to cutting the fabrics apart,
thereby forming the frisé knobs substantially as described and shown.
(2) In the manufacture of double woven frisé goods as herein before set forth the
employment of a triple drop shuttle box containing the two ground pick shuttles and
the frisé pick shuttle and actuated so that at times the two ground pick shuttles are
thrown simultaneously and at times the frisé pick shuttle alone, for the purposes and
substantially as described and shown.
Dated this 13th day of November 1888.
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James Square, Manchester,
Agents.