Improvements in Dyeing Mixed Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Feb., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 20th Nov., 1889-Accepted, 21st Dec., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Dyeing Mixed Woven Fabrics.
I THOMAS INGHAM of 18 Johnson Street Cheetham Manchester in the County
of Lancaster Chemist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:
This invention relates to a mode of producing black and other colors upon woven
fabrics composed of mixed vegetable and animal fibres such for instance as cotton
and wool.
Hitherto such mixed woven fabrics could not be satisfactorily dyed after weaving
but it has been the practise to dye the cotton and woollen yarns separately, and by a
distinct and separate process, and then to weave the previously dyed yarns together
in the loom.
According to my process I am enabled to weave both the cotton and woollen yarns
in the grey state, and then to dye the mixed cloth after weaving at one and the
same operation.
I first thoroughly cleanse the goods with water mixed with soda ash, caustic soda.
bisulphite of soda, soap or other suitable detergent, and after the goods are suitably
prepared, the fabric to be dyed to the desired color or shade is passed in the open
state first through the necessary coloring matter according to the color or shade
desired, such as fustic, beechwood, quercitron bark, cutch logwood persian berries,
aniline, or other colors in a suitable machine or apparatus.
After drying the dyed fabric is then passed through suitable oxidizing agents
such as solution of nitrate of iron, nitrate of copper meta-vanadiate of ammonia,
chlorate of potash, bichromate of soda potassium or ammonium, or chlorate of soda,
which will have the effect of oxydizing and thoroughly fixing the colors on both the
wollen and cotton fibres equally.
This operation is then followed by suitably cleansing the goods with any one of
the various detergent materials above named.
Dated this 19th day of February 1889.
GEORGE DAVIES,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agent for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Dyeing Mixed Woven Fabrics.
1 THOMAS INGHAM of 18 Johnson Street Cheetham Manchester in the County
of Lancaster Chemist do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the mode of producing black and other colors upon woven
or knitted fabrics of mixed vegetable and animal fibres, such for instance as cotton
and wool.
Hitherto such mixed woven or knitted fabrics could not be dyed at one process
after weaving except certain limited classes by the use of aniline dyes, but it has
been the practise in the case of fabrics composed of cotton and wool for instance either
to dye the cotton warp by means of a mordant and a coloring matter previously to
weaving, and to weave the same with an undyed woollen weft, and afterwards to redye
the cloth with a coloring matter which was fixed by oxidation upon the woollen fibre ;
or in some cases the cloth was woven or knitted with both the cotton warp and the
woollen weft in the grey or undyed state, then subjected to a mordant and a coloring
1

page_text: matter to dye and fix the vegetable fibres, and afterwards with a coloring matter and
an oxidizing agent, to dye and fix the animal fibres so that in either case there
has always hitherto been a double process of dyeing (once with a mordant, and once
with an oxidizing agent) to dye the mixed fabric.
According to my invention I am enabled to weave both the cotton and woollen
yarns in the grey or undyed state and then to dye and fix the color upon the mixed
cloth (after weaving) at one and the same operation.
My improved process is as follows
་
1 first thoroughly cleanse the goods by boiling water or by a boiling solution of
soda ash, caustic soda, carbonate or bisulphite of soda, carbonate of ammonia soap
or other suitable detergent, then wash, in cold water and dry the same.
I next pass the cloth in the open state through a vessel containing the necessary
coloring matter, and fitted at the end with suitable rollers or bowls so as to nip or
squeeze the cloth after leaving the vessel, only allowing it to carry the required
percentage of coloring matter, the quantity of which can be regulated by increasing
or decreasing the pressure on the cloth by weighted levers springs or screws as usual
in such apparatus.
I would here remark that although for the sake of clearness I describe the apparatus
which I prefer to employ for this purpose I do not wish to confine myself to the
use of such apparatus entirely, nor do I make any claim to the construction of
such apparatus which is well known and in ordinary use for similar purposes.
After passing through the coloring matter as above described the cloth is dried
by means of hot air or by passing over heated cylinders or in any other suitable known
manner.
The cloth thus dyed and dried is then oxidized and the colour fixed and rendered
permanent by passing the same (in the open state) through another vessel containing
the oxidizing agent in solution.
:
This latter may be a solution of any or a mixture of some of the following;
izt. bichromate of potash, bichromate of soda, bichromate of ammonia, chromic
acid, nitrate of iron, sulphate of iron, sulphate of copper, carbonate of soda or
sulphate of soda
The strength of this solution and the mixture where such is used will vary with
the circumstances according to the nature of the coloring matter employed, as will
be readily understood by any practical dyer, but for the sake of illustration I may
say that a solution of bichromate of potash of a strength of three degrees Twaddel
will be found to be suitable for fixing the coloring material upon the fibres.
passing through this oxidizing vessel the cloth should be again nipped or squeezed
by passing between rollers for the purpose of saving or not wasting more than is
necessary of, the liquor or solution which is contained in the vessel.
After
This vessel is followed by another vessel suitable for washing the cloth in cold water
in the open state. The next treatment consists in thoroughly cleansing the cloth by
passing it through hot water or hot water and soap or through water and common
soda, or water and carbonate ammonia.
This latter process can be effected either whilst the cloth is in the open state, or
in the twisted or rope form. Finally the cloth is washed in cold water and dried.
The coloring matters employed for dyeing may be varied considerably and many
'well known or other dyeing solutions may be employed, but I will here mention a
few dyeing solutions which I have found to answer well with my improved process.
For Black. Sixteen gallons of extract of logwood liquor at ten degrees Twaddel.
Two gallons of extract of quercitron bark liquor at ten degrees Twaddel.
Twenty two gallons of water heated to about 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Another Black. Eighteen gallons of extract of logwood liquor at ten degrees
Twaddel.
Twenty two gallons of water heated to about 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Blue Black. Sixteen gallons of extract of logwood liquor at ten degrees Twaddel.
Two gallons extract of Fustic liquor at ten degrees Twaddel.
(ar) Then wallons extract of auozaition has liquor at ton degrees Twaddal

page_text: (or) Two gallons extract of Persian berries at ten degrees Twaddel.
One pound and a quarter of benzo-azurine blue dissolved in two gallons of hot
water and half a pound of common soda crystals (or one pound carbonate_ammonia)
Twenty two gallons of water heated to one hundred and twenty degrees Fahrenheit.
Brown. One and half pounds Cutch or Catechu.
One gallon hot water.
One and a half noggins acetic acid.
Dissolve and add ono sixteenth of a gallon extract of fustic liquor at ten degrees
Twaddel.
One thirty second of a gallon extract of logwood at ten degrees Twaddel heated to
about one hundred and forty degrees Fahrenheit.
Another Brown. Two gallons of fustic liquor at ten degrees Twaddel.
Half gallon extract of peach wood liquor at ten degrees Twaddel (or of sapanwood
at ten degrees Twaddel).
Half gallon of extract of logwood liquor at ten degrees Twaddel.
Five gallons of water at about one hundred and forty degrees Fahrenheit.
Bronze or Gold Shade. Sixteen gallons extract of Fustic liquor at ten degrees
Twaddel.
Twenty two gallons water heated to about one hundred and forty degrees
Fahrenheit.
I may repeat that I do not claim any of the above as new or special dyeing
solutions, or as constituting any part of my invention, but I give them as illustration
of solutions which are suitable for use with my new process.
What consider to be the principal novel features of.my improved process are
as follows:
First. Submitting a woven or knitted fabric of undyed mixed animal and vegetable
fibres (after suitable cleansing) to a bath of the coloring matter or solution, without
any mordant whatever and then drying the same.
N.B. This drying operation after the absorption of the necessary amount of
coloring material is most important as it prevents any appreciable quantity
of the coloring matter from being dissolved out and wasted before the
oxidizing agent has fixed the same.
Secondly. Oxidizing the coloring material on the dried fabric by any of the
solutions or agents above named or by any other known oxidizing agent which will
have the same property of indelibly fixing the colors upon both the vegetable and
animal fibres at one and the same operation.
And I claim as my invention the combination of the two above described processes
as applied to mixed fabrics in the order specified whereby I am enabled to dye and
fix the colors upon both the animal and the vegetable fibres simultaneously.
Dated this 18th day of November 1889.
GEORGE DAVIES,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agent for the Applicant.