Year: 1879

page_text: I, JOHN GULSON BURGESS, Secretary of the London & Leicester Hosiery Company,
Limited, of Winifred Street, Leicester, in the County of Leicester, seek leave to
ainend the Specification and Drawings of Letters Patent No 2669 of 1879, as
shown in red ink in the copy of the original specification hereunto annexed :—
My reasons for making this amendment are as follows:-viz-there is reason
to believe that in respect of the subject matter of the claiming clauses and the
description and drawings altered or struck out of the said copy of specification the
invention was not now at the date of the said Letters Patent.
The said Company are the Assignees and sole owners of the said Letters Patent.
JOHN GULSON BURGESS,

page_text: In the Matter of an Application by the London and Leicester Hoisery Company
Limited for leave to amend the Specification and drawings of Letters Patent
No 2669 dated 1st July 1879:
THE COMPTROLLER-GENERAL'S DECISION.
I hereby grant leave to the above named London and Leicester Hosiery Company 5
Limited to amend the said Specification in the manner proposed with a further
amendment consisting of the deletion of the words “or vibrating” in the fourth
(now the second) claiming clause.

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Josiah Griswold, Managing Director of the
Company Griswold and Hainworth (Limited), of Charterhouse Square, in
the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
Manufacture OF STOCKINGS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THESE
AND OTHER LOOPED FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Josiah Griswold at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 1st July 1879.
HENRY JOSIAH GRISWOLD Managing Director of the Company Griswold and
Hainworth (Limited) of Charterhouse Square in the County of Middlesex.
" IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS AND IN MACHINERY FOR
PRODUCING THESE AND OTHER LOOPED FABRICS."
My Invention relates to an improved stocking especially adapted to the use of
bicycle riders. It also relates to an improved method of forming the toe of a
stocking and an improved method of transferring the ribbed tops to a circular
stocking frame also to the mechanism therefor.
It also relates to an improved frictional driving gear and stop off motion for
circular knitting machines also to an improved method of holding down the work
upon knitting machines where self-acting needles are used by which improvement
I obviate the necessity of using weights or winding up tackle. This part of my
Invention is equally applicable to rectilinear machines. It also relates to improved
mechanism for shaping stockings automatically on a circular knitting machine. It
also relates to providing a circular knitting machine so constructed as to knit
either flat or tubular web, plain or ribbed, with improved mechanism by which
in addition to the work usually performed on such machines, a plain tubular web
of any width can be knit, and narrowed or widened at will.
In carrying my Invention into practice.
1st. I form a stocking for bicyclers' use with a spring knee cap by inserting in
the front of the knee of the stocking a gusset similar to one half of the heel or toe.
I also knit upon the stocking one or perhaps two narrow strips of web a few inches
long upon the end of which I form a button hole. These straps, being buttoned
onto the trousers or waist-band, effectually keep the stockings from slipping down.
The spring knee cap fitting perfectly the knee of the rider when in a bent position,
removes all strain and thus increases the comfort and durability of the hose.

page_text: Second. Upon a circular reversible knitting machine, I have learnel to form the
toes in a manner more expeditious than before, and at the same timo equally as
well fitting as those heretofore made.
After having knit the leg, heel and foot, I put out of action half of the needles
on one side of the machine, and then narrow the other half by putting out of action &
one needle each time across, until say six needles remain. I then put the
remaining six needles out of action and have then completed one half of the toe.
To form the other half I put into action the needles which were out of action at
first, and upon these form the other half of the toe in the same manner as the first.
I then put all the needles into action and knit two or three complete rounds. The 1
toe is then sewn up by the mending stitch and may be so accurately done, as not
to show the joining.
Third. In making plain stockings I prefer to knit the ribbed tops on a separato
machine especially constructed for the purpose. In order to transfer these tops to
the stocking frame, I construct a transfer frame, having a number of grooves cut in
it, equal to the number of grooves in the needle cylinder of the machine. This
frame may be in the form of a disc and have the grooves cut radially into its
surface, but I prefer to form it in the shape of a cylinder and cut the grooves
parallel to its axis i.e. similarly situated to the grooves of the needle cylinder.
Into each of these grooves I solder a quill so shaped as to embrace and partly cover
the hooks respectively of the needles in the machine and pointed so as readily to
enter the stitches of the fabric.
In order to be able to use this transferring frame effectually, it is necessary to
bring all the hooks of the needles onto one plane. To accomplish this, I construct
in the top of the cam ring of the knitting machine an auxiliary groove; a small
part of its lower wall being cut away. I then arrange a switch cam by which all
the needles may be at the proper time shunted into this auxiliary groove and
afterwards the opening closed. This brings the hooks of all the needles level with
each other and above the top of the cylinder.
Having looped the ribbed top onto the transfer frame, and ravelled off the surplus
rows of yarn, I place the transferring frame upon the machine, in such a manner,
that the hook of each needle is embraced by one of the quills. I then push the web
down onto the machine.
Instead of the auxiliary groove as mentioned above I sometimes divide the
cylinder of the machine into two parts transversely. While knitting the upper
part of the cylinder is raised about half an inch above the other part but the
grooves of the one part aro kept in line with those of the other part. When I
wish to transfer a ribbed top to the machine, I have only to depress the upper
section of the cylinder and the hooks of the needles are in a suitable position to
receive the loops from the transferring frame.
Fourth. My improved frictional driving gear is constructed is follows. Around
the base of the cam ring of the machine is fixed a frictional driving pulley so as to
revolve simultaneously with the said cam ring. Underneath the bed of the
machine is a hanger carrying a horizontal journal or shaft extending outwards from
the centre. One end of the shaft is tapped with a screw thread. On this horizontal
shaft revolves a loose pulley grooved to take a cat gut band and on the inner
surface of which is glued a disc of wood leather or compressed paper. Between
this loose pulley and its hanger and the journal thereof is placed a spiral spring
the office of which is to press the loose pulley out of contact with the driving
pulley of the cam shell. On the screwed end of the shaft is a nut, one turn or a
part of a turn of which is sufficient to compress the spring and press the loose
pulley against the said driving wheel causing it to revolve and with it the cam
ring of the knitting machine or by turning this nut in the other direction the
machine may be instantly thrown out of action.
Fitth. In applying my improved method of holding down the work to circular
knitting machines I fix around the outside of the needle cylinder and a little
above the top of the same a ring on one side of which are grooves cut radially and

page_text: equal in number to the number of grooves in the said cylinder but so adjusted that
each groove of the disc comes in a line between the respective grooves of the
cylinder. In each one of these grooves, is placed a jack or slide, which jacks are
moved slightly forward and backward, at each revolution of the machine, by means
of a set of cams in a cam ring, which cam ring is actuated simultaneously with the
cam ring of the machine. The front end of these jacks is curved downwards so as
to pass inside the cylinder under the web that has been knitted but a projection on
the said jack, passes over the web between each needle and its adjacent one, serving
at the same time to hold down the web, which is beneath it and to knock off the
new stitch, as it is being formed. At each revolution of the machine this jack is
withdrawn a little, so as to let the stitch last knitted fall off the projection, and
then pushed forward again so as to be ready to hold down the work whilo knitting
the new stitch.
It is evident that this novel apparatus is equally applicable to rectilineal
knitting machines the frame which holds the jacks being straight instead of in the
form of a ring and the jacks being actuated by reciprocating cains.
Sixth. The object of my sixth improvement is to so construct a reversible circular-
knitting machine so as to be able to knit the heel and toe of a stocking
automatically.
To such a machine consisting essentially of a needle-bed needle-cylinder cam
ring with its cams, yarn carrier and series of selfacting needles, I add the automatic
apparatus constructed as follows. Instead of employing the usual needle with the
butt, at one end of the shank I preferably continue the shank of the needle sɔy
two or three inches beyond the butt. I then support the needle cylinder in such a
manner as to allow the prolonged shanks of the needles to pass downwards beyond
the bed of the machine. Underneath the machine I arrange a system of lovers, one
lever to correspond with each needle of the machine, or with so many of the
needles, as are brought into use in forming the heel and toe.
These levers are arranged radially about the axis of the machine one end of each
lever terminating directly under a corresponding needle while they are hinged
from a suitable support placed a short distance from the machine. The heel and
toe of a stocking are each formed upon half of all the needles in the cylinder and
it is convenient to divide this half part of the needles, into three sections. The
needles in the middle one of these sections, are never thrown out of action. Each
of the other two sections, I prefer to actuate by a separate jacquard apparatus
which may be placed either above or underneath the said levers.
These jacquards are actuated by means of a system of pawls combined with a
pattern wheel.
In machines intended for very coarse work I have sometimes been able to do
away with the lovers and actuate the needles directly from the jacquard apparatus
but I find in practice that the machine is more reliable in its working, when the
levers are used.
Instead of continuing the shank of the needles beyond their butts I may employ
needles of the usual form and make use of separate jack wires for transferring the
motion from the jaquard apparatus to the needles.
In my improved machine when the needles are at rest I prefer that they shall
hang suspended from the loops of the fabric by their hooks. When knitting the
round work of the leg and foot of the stocking the jacquard apparatus is entirely
out of action and the needles are raised so as to free their latches from the loops of
the fabric by a cam expressly constructed for the purpose. In knitting the heel
and toe, however this cam is rendered inactive and the required number of needles
are lifted into action by the jacquard apparatus.
Seventh. To a circular reversible knitting machine of the usual type, I have
added certain improvements by which I am able to knit in addition to the usual
work done on such machines, also a tubular web of any diameter and narrow or
widen such web at will.
•

page_text: I arrange this machine so that when the needles are at rest their hooks project
only slightly above the cylinder and so that the upthrow cains may be thrown out of
action. I supply the machine with a ribbing attachment having a dial cut
with the same number of grooves as the cylinder of the machine and cams so
arranged that it will knit only when turned to the right while the machine may
be so adjusted as to knit only when turned to the left.
This machine without the ribbing attachment is capable of knitting a tubular
web of a fixed diameter according to the size of the cylinder. Upon it one can also
kuit a flat web of any width up to the whole circumference of the cylinder and
narrow and widen such flat web at will and even change from flat to tubular
work and vice versa while the heels and toes of stockings may be perfectly
narrowed and shaped.
When this machine is supplied with a ribbing attachment a ribbed stocking can
also be knitted upon it.
With my improvements however a plain tubular web can be made from the size
of a glove finger to nearly double the circumference of the cylinder and be
narrowed and widened at will.

page_text: the Great Seal Patent Office on the 31st December 1880.
HENRY JOSIAH GRISWOLD Managing Director of the Company Griswold and
Hainworth (Limited) of Charterhouse Square in the County of Middlesex.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS AND IN MACHINERY FOR
PRODUCING THESE AND OTHER LOOPED FABRICS."
My invention relates to the manufacture of stockings and other looped fabrics,
and to machinery therefor, and comprises various improvements in such machinery
as hereinafter specified, and as illustrated in the accompanying Drawings which I
will now proceed to describe.
Figure is a plan or top view of an improved transferring device constructed
according to my said Invention.
Figure 9-is-a-transverse section-of-the-same.
Figure is a vertical transverse section through the cam ring and needle
cylinder of a knitting machine constructed according to my Invention and shews
e-modified form of my transfer device in position for transferring the web from
the same to the needles.
Figure 42 is a side elevation of the said transfer device.
Figure 58 is a vertical transverse section of the said cam ring shewing the
arrangement of the cams and grooves for bringing the needles all into one plane
as hereinafter described.
Figure 64 is a similar section of the upper portion of the said ring shewing the
parts in a different position to that shewn in Figure 5 8.
Figure 6 illustrates in three views one of the quills of the transfer device shewn
in Figure 42.
Figure-8-illustrates in two views the quills of the transfer device shewn in
Figures 1 and 2.
Figure
machines.
6 shews two forms of the needles used in-my-improved knitting
Figure + 7 is a vertical transverse section of the needle cylinder and other parts
of a knitting machine provided with a series of web holding jacks as hereinafter
described.
Figure ++ 8 is an underside view of one half of the cam-ring shewing the cams
for operating the said jacks.
Figures ++39 and ++ 10 shew three different forms of the said jacks.
Figure +5 11 is a side elevation and Figure +6 12 a vertical transverse section of
a machine embodying a modified arrangement of devices for placing and supporting
the needles with their hooks all in one plane for the reception of the web from the
transfer device and Figure 17 is a vertical transverse section-illustrating a further
modification-of-the-same,

page_text: Figure 18 is a vertical transverse section-of-a-knitting machine provided with
mechanism-to-adapt it for the automatic knitting of the heel and toe-of-a-stocking
Figure
And
19-is-an-underside-view-partly in section of the said mechanism.
Figure 90 is a vertical transverse section of the eam ring with the needle-
operating eams of the said machine.
Figure-at-is-a-side-view-of-a-needle hereinafter-described.
Like letters indicate the same parts throughout the Drawings.
According to my said Invention in making plain stockings I prefer to knit the
ribbed tops on a separate machine especially constructed for this purpose. In order
to transfer these ribbed tops to the stocking frame I construct a transfer device or
frame provided with a number of quills equal to the number of grooves in the
needle cylinder a and set in grooves or otherwise in a frame or holder. This
frame may-be-in-the form of a dise-b-ns shewn in Figures 1 and 2 and have the
grooves-out-of-east-radially-in-its-surface but I prefer to construct it in the form
of a cylinder with the quills c set parallel to its axis so that when placed on the
needle cylinder the said quills will be vertical like the grooves of the said cylinder
as shewn in Figures 3 and 4 2. These quills are so shaped that each one will
embrace, and partly sheathe or cover, one of the hooks of the needles in the machine
and they are so pointed as to readily enter the stitches of the fabric.
A convenient method of securing these quills is to use a grooved ring as shewn
at c. The quills are fixed in the grooves and the ring is secured by screws or
otherwise, inside the end or edge of the said cylinder but the fixing of the said
quills in place may be accomplished in any other suitable manner.
The peculiar formation of these quills is clearly shewn in Figure 75. A is a front
view of the blank formed from a thin piece of steel or other suitable material. B is
a front view and C a side view of the finished quill. The said quill is curved or
inclined backward towards its point to facilitate the entrance of the needle into the
groove of the quill. The said quill has at c* a shoulder which acts as a stop for the
loops so that the needle will not push them up instead of entering them properly.
In-some-instanees I may form in the quill a slight-depression-or-notch below the
said-shoulder.
In order to be able to use this transferring frame effectually, it is necessary to
bring the hooks of the needles e all into one plane and to hold them therein during
the operation of transferring. I accomplish this object according-to-one-part-of-my
Invention as follows. I construct in the top of the cam ring f of the knitting
machine shewn in Figure 3 1, an auxiliary groove g which has a portion or portions
of its lower wall cut away as shewn at g'. In combination with this groove I
arrange a pivoted cam g³ and a switch cam g' which when in the position shewn
in Figure 53 serves to shunt all of the needles e at the proper time into the said
anxiliary groove the hooks of the said needles being thereby all brought into one
plane or level with each other above the top of the needle cylinder a, the said
needles being firmly hold up or supported in this position by the lower wall or
surface of the groove g on which their butts or toes rest. When it is designed to
bring the needles again into action I depress a switch cam
cam into the position shewn in full lines in Figure 6 4.
and raise the pivoted
Having looped the ribbed top upon the quills c of the transfer frame, and ravelled
off the surplus rows of yarn I place the said transfer frame upon the machino as
shown in Figure 3 1 in such a manner that the hook of each needle is embraced or
cnclosed by one of the said quills c. In ordinary cases, when the transfer device is
lifted the web will remain on the needles but if necessary I may push the web
down by means of a circular comb or draw it down by hand.
The manner of effecting the adjustment of the parts for bringing the needle
hooks into ono plane above or clear of the needle cylinder, may be varied.
In the--modification of my Invention--illustrated--in the machine shown in
Figures + 11 and +6 12, instead of raising the butts of the needles by means of a
cam or switch into the auxiliary groove to bring their hooks all into one plano

page_text: I adjust the needle cylinder a within the cam ring which may have in it a groove
as above described for supporting the needles e all in one plane, or may as shewn
be constructed to hold the needles all in one plane by supporting their butts on its
upper edge. The devices for effecting the vertical adjustment of the needle
cylinder may be varied but those shewn are very convenient and are as follows
that is to say The cylinder a extends downward below the circular frame h and
is provided with the inclined or spiral slot or slots i, each of which receives a stud or
projection h¹ fixed in the said frame; these studs and slots are so arranged that by
turning the handle j attached to the cylinder a the latter will be raised or lowered
k is a stop which is carried by the said handle and which enters a notch at k¹ and
holds the said cylinder when the same is raised f* is a cam which when raised
permits the butts of all the needles to pass into one plane and below their
operating cams,
According to-another-modification-of-these-devices I divide the needle cylinder a
transversely into two annular portions or rings a³-a³ the upper-one a' of which
is-adjustable-with-regard-to-the-lower one for the purpose of leaving the hooks of
the needles all-in-one-plane, above the said cylinder. The needle grooves are
extended--across- both of the-parts-a-a³-and-to-ensure the proper alignment of
these-grooves in the two-parts-a³-a-I-provide in the interior of the cylinder
tongues-a-on--one part which enter slots in the other part of the same. The
adjustment of the upper part-a-may be effected by a serew or excentric-or-other
suitable-device. While the knitting is preeceding the upper part a' is so raised
that-there-is-a-space of about-a-half inch between the two parts a', a³ but when !
wish-to-transfer-a-ribbed top-to-the machine I depress the upper part-of-section-a²
of the eylinder, the hooks of all of the needles being then-in-a-cuitable-position-to
receive-the-loops-from-the-transferring-frame.
In-cases-where-the-needles are extended-considerably above their supporting
ring, it may be desirable-to-arrange the quills of the transferring device to pass
down outside of the needles, but when--practicable 1 prefer to have the quills
inside the needles as the needle-hooks then assist in withdrawing the loops from
the quills in the act of transferring the web.
According to another part of my Invention I provide for holding down the work
on a circular knitting machine as follows, that is to say, In the machine shewn in
Figures 7 and 8, I fix around the outside of the needle cylinder a, and by
preference slightly above the top of the same, a ring 2 which has in its upper
surface radial grooves equal in number to the number of needle-grooves in
the said cylinder, and so arranged or adjusted that the grooves of the disc are
between the needle grooves of the cylinder a, they being held in this position
by one or more studs or feathers l or other suitable means. In each of these
grooves is placed a webholding jack or slide m; theso jacks are moved
slightly forward and backward at each revolution of the machine by means
of a set of cams n¹ n' in a cain-ring n which is actuated simultaneously with the
main cam ing f of the machine. These jacks have a peculiar form or con-
figuration as clearly shewn in Figures +99 and + 10, that is to say, each jack
is formed of a piece of thin steel or other suitable metal; it has either on its
upper-or-its--lower--hedge a heel or projection m¹ to be acted upon by the said
cams; it also has a hook or notch m³ and a curved extremity or tail m³. The
end m³ of each jack is curved downwards so that when in place in the machine it
extends inside the cylinder under the web that has been knitted, and the not:h
or hook m² is formed on the said jack in such a position as to pass over the web
between the two adjacent needles serving-at-the-same-time and serves to hold down
the web which is beneath it, and-to-knock-off the new stitch as it is being-formed.
At each revolution or reciprocation of the machine, these jacks are drawn back
slightly by the cam-n-so as to let the stitch last knitted, fall from the said notches
or hooks,-and-are-then pushed forward by the cam n² to be ready to hold down the
work during the knitting of the next stiteh. In forming the loops the needles in
descending pull the yarn down upon the jacks just behind the hook or notch m³

page_text: while the loop last formed is held by the said hook. When the jack is retracted
the newly formed loop falls below the hook m²; then the jack advances for the
formation of a fresh loop. The entire web holding device may be adjusted vertically
for varying the tightness of the knitting. It-is--obvious--that On a machine pro-
vided with my improved web holding device the work can be commenced without
a special setting up device, and without casting loops on the needles as is necessary
in ordinary knitting machines with self-acting needles.
In-Figure 14 have shewn one of the said jacks modified in form to adapt the
some-to-vibrate-on-a-hinge or pivot-at-m'-instead of sliding-in-a--radial groove
as-above-deseribed.
"This web holding apparatus obviates the necessity for using weights or winding
up tackle.
It is evident that the above described apparatus is equally applicable to rectilinear
or curvilinear knitting machines, that is to say machines wherein the series of
needles, instead of being circular, is straight or curved but not circular.
According-to-another-part-of-my-said-Invention--construet-a-reversible-circular
knitting machine-eapable of knitting the heel-and-toe of a stocking automatically.
For-this-purpose to a machine consisting mainly of a needle bed, or needle-cylinder,
eam-ring-eams-yarn-earrier-and-series of self-acting needles as shewn in Figures 18
to--20, 1--add--an--automatio--apparatus--as--follows-that is to say. Instead of
employing needles which have the butt or toe-at-one-end-of-the-shank as heretofore
J-construet my needles as shewn in Figure 18 with the shank e--extended-or
continued-beyond-the-butt-e², say-two-or-three-inches-more-or-less according-to-the
precise-purpose for which they are to be used. I construct and support-the-needle
eylinder-as-shewn in Figure 18,-in-such-a-manner as-to-allow-the-prolonged-chanks
of the needles to extend-downward beyond the bed-of the-machine. Under the
bed-of-the-machine I arrange-one or more series of levers-o-;-each lever of these
series-corresponds with-and-actuates-one-needle,-and-there-are-as many of the said
levers as there are "narrowings" or "intakes"-in-forming the heel-or toe-of-a
stocking.
These levers-are-arranged-about-the-axis-of-the-machine-one-end of each-lever
terminating--directly-under-its-corresponding--needle--and they are hinged--or
fulerummed upon a suitable support-o'-arranged in combination with--the-said
machine. The heel and toe of a stocking-are-each-formed-upon-one-half of the
series-er-set-of-needles in the cylinder-a-and-it is convenient to divide each half
part-of-the-series-of-needles-into-three-sections. The needles in the central-section
are-never--thrown out-of-nction. Each-needle-of-this-central--section-has-an
auxiliary butt c³ as shown in Figure St, slightly above the other butt so that
when the switch-cam-p-is-adjusted to be inoperative, the said auxiliary butt
will be raised by another eam p³-sufficiently to allow the lower butt to engage
with-the-upthrow-cam-g. The needles-of-each-of-the-other two sections I prefer
to actuate by a jacquard apparatus or pattern cylinder 7 which may be placed
either above or below the said levers. The said pattern cylinder is composed
of a series of wheels or dises-71, secured tightly together each of which has a
portion of smaller diameter than its other portion. The said pattern cylinder is
supported by vibrating-arms--and is provided-with-a-ratchet-wheel--arranged
in combination with a fixed pawl in sul-ammer, that when the said arms-with-
draw or move down with the raid-pattern-cylinder the latter will be turned on
its axis-a-distance equal to one-tooth of the ratchet wheel. Each diser¹-is
arranged in combination with one of the levers o. The required movement is
imparted-to-the-vibrating arms-which-earry-the-pattern-eylinder-7-by-suitable-con-
nection with the cam-ring in such a manner that the said-arms vibrate once for
each-reciprocation-of-the-said-ring.-The-successive-wheels-or-dises-of-the-pattern
eylinder are so arranged in connection-with-the-needles-that-in-commencing
knitting of the heel or toe the high-or-large-portion of all of the dices will be
presented to the lever and consequently the latter will be raised and all of the
Beedles-of-beth-sections-will-knit. I will however-now--refer-only-to-the-right
the

page_text: hand-section of the needles. At the next complete reciprocation or to and fro
movement of the cam-ring the pattern eylinder is turned by the pawl sufficiently
to leave the first lever on the right hand of the section clear of the high or
large-part-of-its-operating wheel therefore the first-needle will not be raised suffi-
eiently to engage with the upthrow eam q.. At the next-reciprocation of the needle
eylinder the second needle will in like-manner-be-rendered inoperative and so on
until all of the needles-in-the-same-section-have-ceased-to-knit. In this manner-the
first half of the heel or toe is narrowed; -now-to widen out the other half of the
same-the-continued-retation-of-the-
e-pattern-cylinder turns all of the wheels com-
meneing at the left band successively into such positions as to bring all of the
needles one after the other, again into position to engage with the-said-upthrow
cam-and-recommence knitting.
In-machines intended for very coarse-work I may dispense with the levers-o
and actuate the needles directly by the said pattern cylinder; but I consider the
machine-more-reliable-in its operation when the said levers are used.
Instead of using needles which have their shanks extended beyond their butts
as-above-described I may employ-needles of the usual form and provide separate
jacks or wire-rods arranged below the butts to act-on-the-same for transmitting the
motion from the pattern-apparatus-to-the-said-needles.
In-my-improved machine when the needles are at rest I prefer that they-shall
hang-suspended from the loops of the fabrio by their hooks. When knitting the
round-work-of--the leg and foot of a steeking the aforesaid pattern apparatus is
entirely out-of-nction, and the-needles-are--raised by the adjustable or switch
eam-to--engage--with--the upthrow-eam and thus free-their-latches from the
leeps of the fabric. In knitting the heel and toe however this cam-is-rendered
inactive-and the required--number of needles are lifted-into-action by the pattern
apparatus.
In--the-above--described--machines--the--eam-ring-rotates-around-the-needle
eylinder-but-it is obvious that-my-improvements may be applied or adapted to
machines in which the eam ring--is stationary-and-the-needle-eylinder-rotates
around-the-same.
Having thus fully described my said Invention and the manner of performing
the same I wish it understood that I claim
First. In-a-eireular knitting machine in which self-acting or lateh-needles-are
used-the-employment of means substantially as described for bringing all of the
said-needles-at-the-same time-into-one-plane with their books above or clear of
the--needle--eylinder--and--supporting them in this position for the purpose-of
transferring to them the ribbed top-of a steeking or other knitted fabric.
Second. First. A circular transferring device substantially as described which
has a series of quills arranged either horizontally or vertically on the part which
supports them and so shaped as to partially embrace or cover the needles and upon
which the loops of the knitted web are placed for the purpose of being transferred
simultaneously to the needles of a circular knitting machine as herein described.
Third. The modification-of-this-device as herein set forth whereby I-adapt the
same-to-a-straight or ourvilinear series of quills-for-use-in-a-machine in which self-
noting needles are used for the purpose-specified.
Fourth. Second. In a circular knitting machine the employment of a series of
sliding or vibrating web holding jacks operating in combination with the needles
substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Fifth. In combination with a cireular knitting machine, a-web-holding device
situated outside of the needle cylinder and consisting essentially of the radially
grooved--dial, the sliding-jacks, and the cam-ring-with its cams for actuating the
said jacks as and for the e-purpose specified.
Sixth. In-a-circular-knitting machine, the combination with the cams carried by
the eam ring, of mechanism-constructed-and-operating substantially as described for
determining which needle or needles-shall-act-at-each-reciprocation-or-revolution
of-the-said-sam-ring-for-the-purpose set forth,

page_text: Seventh. In combination with the needle cylinder and eam-ring-of-a-circular
knitting machine the series of levers arranged to-be-adjusted by means of a pattern
eylinder operating as set forth-all-substantially-as-and-for the purpose specified.
Eighth. In a circular knitting machine the arrangement whereby the needles
acting in the formation of the beel and toe are divided into three sections in one
of which sections the needles are never out of action while in the other two
seations the needles-are-adjusted-to be either native or inactive by means of a
pattern-apparatus as and for the purpose-specified.
Ninth In-the-said knitting machine the means whereby-the-needles-provided
with-the-nuxiliary butt-are-caused-to-operate-as-and-for-the-purpose-specified.
In witness whereof I the said Henry Josiah Griswold have hereunto set
my hand and seal this Thirty first day of December in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty.

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Josiah Griswold, Managing Director of the
Company Griswold and Hainworth (Limited), of Charterhouse Square, in
the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of “IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THESE
ARIZED LOODED FADDING"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Josiah Griswold at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 1st July 1879.
HENRY JOSIAH GRISWOLD, Managing Director of the Company Griswold and
Hainworth (Limited), of Charterhouse Square, in the County of Middlesex.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR
PRODUCING THESE AND OTHER LOOPED FABRICS."
My Invention relates to an improved stocking, especially adapted to the use of
bicycle riders. It also relates to an improved method of forming the toe of a
stocking, and an improved method of transferring the ribbed tops to a circular
stocking frame, also to the mechanism therefor.
It also relates to an improved frictional driving gear and stop off motion for
circular knitting machines; also to an improved method of holding down the work
upon knitting machines where self-acting needles are used, by which improvement
1 obviate the necessity of using weights or winding up tackle. This part of my
Invention is equally applicable to rectilinear machines. It also relates to improved
mechanism for shaping stockings automatically on a circular knitting machine. It
also relates to providing a circular knitting machine, so constructed as to knit
either flat or tubular web, plain, or ribbed, with improved mechanism by which,
in addition to the work usually performed on such machines, a plain tubular web
of any width can be knit and narrowed or widened at will.
In carrying my Invention into practice,―
1st. I form a stocking for bicyclers' use with a spring knee cap by inserting in
the front of the knee of the stocking a gusset, similar to one half of the heel or toe.

page_text: I also knit upon the stocking one or perhaps two narrow strips of web a fow inches
long, upon the end of which I form a button hole. These straps being buttoned
onto the trousers or waist-band effectually keep the stockings from slipping down.
The spring knee cap fitting perfectly the knee of the rider when in a bent position
removes all strain, and thus increases the comfort and durability of the hose.
Second. Upon a circular reversible knitting machine I have learned to form the
toes in a manner more expeditious than before, and at the same time equally as
well fitting as those heretofore made.
After having kuit the leg, heel, and foot, I put out of action half of the needles
on one side of the machine and then narrow the other half by putting out of action
one needle each time across, until, say, six needles remain. I then put the
remaining six needles out of action and have then completed one half of the toe.
To form the other half I put into action the needles which were out of action at
first, and upon these form the other half of the toe in the same manner as the first.
I then put all the needles into action and kuit two or three complete rounds. The
toe is then sown up by the mending stitch, and may be so accurately done as not
to show the joining.
Third. In making plain stockings I prefer to knit the ribbed tops on a soparate
machine especially constructed for the purpose. In order to transfer these tops to
the stocking frame I construct a transfer frame having a number of grooves cut in
it equal to the number of grooves in the needle cylinder of the machine. This
frame may be in the form of a disc, and have the grooves cut radially into its
surface, but I prefer to form it in the shape of a cylinder, and cut the grooves
parallel to its axis, i.e., similarly situated to the grooves of the needle cylinder.
Into each of these grooves I solder a quill, so shaped as to embrace and partly cover
the hooks rospectively of the needles in the machine, and pointed so as readily to
enter the stitches of the fabric.
In order to be able to use this transferring frame effectually it is necessary to
bring all the hooks of the needles onto one plane. To accomplish this I construct
in the top of the cam ring of the knitting machine an auxiliary groove, a small
part of its lower wall being cut away. I then arrange a switch cam, by which all
the needles may be at the proper time shunted into this auxiliary groove, and
afterwards the opening closed. This brings the hooks of all the needles level with
each other and above the top of the cylinder.
Having looped the ribbed top onto the transfer frame and ravelled off the surplus:
rows of yarn, I place the transferring frame upon the machine in such a manner
that the hook of each needle is embraced by one of the quills; I then push the web
down onto the machine.
Instead of the auxiliary groove, as mentioned above, I sometimes divide the
cylinder of the machine into two parts transversely.
While knitting, the upper
part of the cylinder is raised about half an inch above the other part, but the
grooves of the one part are kept in line with those of the other part. When I
wish to transfer a ribbed top to the machine I have only to depress the upper
section of the cylinder, and the books of the needles are in a suitable position to
receive the loops from the transferring frame.
Fourth. My improved frictional driving gear is constructed is follows:-Around
the base of the cam ring of the machine is fixed a frictional driving pulley so us to
revolve simultaneously with the said cam ring. Underneath the bed of the
machine is a hanger carrying a horizontal journal or slutt extending outwards from
the centre. One end of the shaft is tapped with a screw thread. On this horizontal 5
shaft revolves a loose pulley grooved to take a cat gut band, and on the inner
surface of which is glued a disc of wood, leather, or compressed paper. Between
this loose pulley and its hanger and the journal thereof is placed a spiral spring,
the office of which is to press the loose pulley out of contact with the driving
pulley of the cam shell. On the screwed end of the shaft is a nut, one turn or a 5
part of a turn of which is sufficient to compress the spring and press the loose
pulley against the said driving wheel, causing it to revolve, aud with it the cam

page_text: ring of the knitting machine, or by turning this nut in the other direction the
machine may be instantly thrown out of action.
Fifth. In applying my improved method of holding down the work to circular
knitting machines, I fix around the outside of the needlo cylinder, and a little
above the top of the same a ring, on one side of which are grooves cut radially, and
equal in number to the number of grooves in the said cylinder, but so adjusted that
each groove of the disc comes in a line between the respective grooves of the
cylinder. In each one of these grooves is placed a jack or slide, which jacks are
moved slightly forward and backward at each revolution of the machine by means
of a set of cams in a cam ring, which cam ring is actuated simultaneously with the
cam ring of the machine. The front end of these jacks is curved downwards so as
to pass inside the cylinder under the web that has been knitted, but a projection on
the said jack passes over the web between each needle and its adjacent one, serving
at the same time to hold down the web which is beneath it and to knock off the
new stitch as it is being formed. At each revolution of the machine this jack is
withdrawn a little, so as to let the stitch last knitted fall off the projection, and
then pushed forward again so as to be ready to hold down the work while knitting
the new stitch.
It is evident that this novel apparatus is equally applicable to rectilineal-
knitting machines, the frame which holds the jacks being straight instead of in the
form of a ring, and the jacks being actuated by reciprocating cams.
Sixth. The object of my sixth improvement is to so construct a reversible circular
knitting machine so as to be able to knit the heel and toe of a stocking
automatically.
To such a machine, consisting essentially of a needle-bed, needle-cylinder, cam
ring with its cams, yarn carrier, and series of selfacting needles, I add the automatic
apparatus constructed as follows:-Instead of employing the usual needle with the
butt at one end of the shank I preferably continue the shank of the needle, say,
two or three inches beyond the butt. I then support the needle cylinder in such a
manner as to allow the prolonged shanks of the needles to pass downwards beyond
the bed of the machine. Underneath the machine I arrange a system of levers, one
lever to correspond with each needle of the machine, or with so many of the
needles as are brought into use in forming the heel and toe.
These levers are arranged radially about the axis of the machine, one end of each
lever terminating directly under a corresponding needle, while they are hinged
from a suitable support placed a short distance from the machine. The heel and
toe of a stocking are each formed upon half of all the needles in the cylinder, and
it is convenient to divide this half part of the needles into three sections. The
needles in the middle one of these sections are never thrown out of action. Each
of the other two sections I prefer to actuate by a separate jacquard apparatus,
which may be placed either above or underneath the said levers.
These jacquards are actuated by means of a system of pawls combined with a :
pattern wheel.
In machines intended for very coarse work I have sometimes been able to do
away with the levers and actuate the needles directly from the jacquard apparatus,
but I find in practice that the machine is more reliable in its working when the
levers are used.
Instead of continuing the shank of the needles beyond their butts, I may employ
needles of the usual form, and make use of separate jack wires for transferring the
motion from the jaquard apparatus to the needles.
In my improved machine when the needles are at rest, I prefer that they shall
hang suspended from the loops of the fabric by their hooks. When knitting the
round work of the leg and foot of the stocking, the jacquard apparatus is entirely
out of action, and the needles are raised so as to free their latches from the loops of
the fabric by a cam expressly constructed for the purpose. In knitting the heel
and toe however this cam is rendered inactive, and the required number of needles
are lifted into action by the jacquard apparatus.

page_text: Seventh. To a circular reversible knitting machine of the usual type I have
added certain improvements, by which I am able to knit in addition to the usual
work done on such machines also a tubular web of any diameter, and narrow or
widen such web at will.
I arrange this machine so that when the needles are at rest their hooks project
only slightly above the cylinder, and so that the upthrow cams may be thrown out of
action. I supply the machine with a ribbing attachment having a dial cut
with the same number of grooves as the cylinder of the machine and cams, so
arranged that it will knit only when turned to the right, while the machine may
be so adjusted as to knit only when turned to the left.
This machine without the ribbing attachment is capable of knitting a tubular
web of a fixed diameter according to the size of the cylinder. Upon it one can also
knit a flat web of any width up to the whole circumference of the cylinder, and
narrow and widen such flat web at will, and even chango from flat to tubular
work, and vice versa, while the heels and toes of stockings may be perfectly
narrowed and shaped.
When this machine is supplied with a ribbing attachment, a ribbed stocking can
also be knitted upon it.
With my improvements however a plain tubular web can be made from the size
of a glove finger to nearly double the circumference of the cylinder and be
narrowed and widened at will.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, and
of an Order of the Lord Chancellor, filed by the said Henry Josiah Griswold in
the Great Seal Patent Office on the 31st December 1880.
HENRY JOSIAH GRISWOLD, Managing Director of the Company Griswold and
Hainworth (Limited), of Charterhouse Square, in the County of Middlesex.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR
PRODUCING THESE AND OTHER LOOPED FABRICS."
My Invention relates to the manufacture of stockings and other looped fabrics
and to machinery therefor, and comprises various improvements in such machinery,
as hereinafter specified and as illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, which I
will now proceed to describe.
Figure 1 is a plan or top view of an improved transferring device, constructed
according to my said Invention.
Figure 2 is a transverse section of the same.
Figure 3 is a vertical transverse section through the cam ring and needle cylinder
of a machine, constructed according to my Invention, and shews a modified form
of my transfer device in position for transferring the web from the same to the
needles.
Figure 4 is a side elevation of the said transfer device.
Figure 5 is a vertical transverse section of the said cam ring, shewing the
arrangement of the cams and grooves for bringing the needles all into one plane,
as hereinafter described.
Figure 6 is a similar section of the upper portion of the said ring, shewing the
parts in a different position to that shewn in Figure 5.
Figure 7 illustrates in three views one of the quills of the transfer device shewn
in Figure 4.
Figure 8 illustrates in two views the quills of the transfer device shewn in
Figures 1 and 2.
Figure 9 shews two forms of the needles used in my improved knitting machines.
Figure 10 is a vertical transverse section of the needle cylinder and other parts of
a knitting machine provided with a series of web holding jacks, as hereinafter
described.
Figure 11 is an underside view of one half of the cam-ring shewing the cams for
operating the said jacks.
Figures 12, 13, and 14 shew three different forms of the said jacka.
Figure 15 is a side elevation and Figure 16 a vertical transverse section of a
machine, embodying a modified arrangement of devices for placing and supporting
the needles with their hooks all in one plane for the reception of the web from the
transfer device, and Figure 17 is a vertical transverse section illustrating a further
modification of the same.
Figure 18 is a vertical transverse section of a knitting machine provided with
mechanism to adapt it for the automatic knitting of the heel and toe of a stocking;
and
Figure 19 is an underside view, partly in section, of the said mechanism.
Figure 20 is a vertical transverse section of the cam-ring with the needle-
operating cams of the said machine.
Figure 21 is a side view of a needle hereinafter described.
Like letters indicate the same parts throughout the Drawings.
According to my said Invention, in making plain stockings I prefer to knit the
O ribbed tons on a separate machine especially constructed for this purpose. In order

page_text: to transfer these ribbed tops to the stocking frame I construct a transfer device or
frame provided with a number of quills equal to the number of grooves in the
needle cylinder a, and set in grooves or otherwise in a frame or holder. This
frame may be in the form of a disc b, as shewn in Figures 1 and 2, and have the
grooves cut or cast radially in its surface; but I prefer to construct it in the form
of a cylinder with the quills o set parallel to its axis, so that when placed on the
needle cylinder the said quills will be vertical like the grooves of the said cylinder,
as shewn in Figures 3 and 4. These quills are so shaped that each one will embrace
and partly sheathe or cover one of the hooks of the needles in the machine, and
they are so pointed as to readily enter the stitches of the fabric.
A convenient method of securing these quills is to use a grooved ring, as shewn
at c. The quills are fixed in the grooves and the ring is secured by screws or
otherwise inside the end or edge of the said cylinder; but the fixing of the said
quills in place may be accomplished in any other suitable manner.
The peculiar formation of these quills is clearly shewn in Figure 7. A is a front
view of the blank formed from a thin piece of steel or other suitable material. Bis
a front view and C a side view of the finished quill. The said quill is curved or
inclined backward towards its point to facilitate the entrance of the needle into the
groove of the quill. The said quill has at c* a shoulder which acts as a stop for the
loops, so that the needle will not push them up instead of entering them properly.
In some instances I may form in the quill a slight depression or notch below the
said shoulder.
In order to be able to use this transferring frame effectually, it is necessary to
bring the hooks of the needles e all into one plane, and to hold them therein during
the operation of transferring. I accomplish this object according to one part of my
Invention as follows:-I construct in the top of the cam ring f of the knitting
machine shewn in Figure 3 an auxiliary groove g, which has a portion or portions
of its lower wall cut away, as shewn at g¹. In combination with this groove I
arrange a pivoted cam g' and a switch cam g³, which when in the position shewn
in Figure 5 serves to shunt all of the needles e at the proper time into the said
auxiliary groove, the hooks of the said needles being thereby all brought into one
plane or level with each other above the top of the needle cylinder a, the said
needles being firmly held up or supported in this position by the lower wall or
surface of the groove g on which their butts or toes rast. When it is designed to
bring the needles again into action, I depress a switch cam g' and raise the pivoted
cam g³ into the position shewn in full lines in Figure 6.
Having looped the ribbed top upon the quills c of the transfer frame and ravelled
off the surplus rows of yarn, I place the said transfer frame upon the machine, as
shown in Figure 3, in such a manner that the hook of each needle is embraced or
enclosed by one of the said quills c. In ordinary cases when the transfer device is
lifted the web will remain on the needles, but if necessary I may push the web
down by means of a circular comb, or draw it down by hand.
The manner of effecting the adjustment of the parts for bringing the needle
hooks into one plane above or clear of the needle cylinder may be varied.
In the modification of my Invention illustrated in Figures 15 and 16, instead of
raising the butts of the needles by means of a cam or switch into the auxiliary
groove to bring their hooks all into one plane, I adjust the needle cylinder a
within the cam ring, which may have in it a groove, as above described, for
supporting the needles e all in one plane, or may, as shewn, be constructed to hold
the needles all in one plane by supporting their butts on its upper edge f. The
devices for effecting the vertical adjustment of the needle cylinder may be varied,
but those shewn are very convenient, and are as follows, that is to say:-The
cylinder a extends downward below the circular frame h, and is provided with the
inclined or spiral slot or slots i, each of which receives a stud or projection h' fixed
in the said frame; these studs and slots are so arranged that by turning the
handle attached to the cylinder a the latter will be raised or lowered; k is a stop

page_text: which is carried by the said handle, and which enters a notch at ' and holds the
said cylinder when the same is raised; f* is a cam which when raised permits
the butts of all the needles to pass into one plane and below their operating
cams.
According to another modification of these devices, I divide the needle-cylinder a
transversely into two annular portions or rings a³, a³, the upper one a' of which
is adjustable with regard to the lower one, for the purpose of leaving the hooks of
the needles all in one plane above the said cylinder. The needle-grooves are
extended across both of the parts a³, a³, and to ensure the proper alignment of
these grooves in the two parts a³, a³, I provide in the interior of the cylinder
tongues a on one part, which enter slots in the other part of the same. The
adjustment of the upper part a³ may be effected by a screw or eccentric, or other
suitable device. While the knitting is proceeding the upper part a³ is so raised
that there is a space of about a half inch between the two parts a³, a³; but when I
wish to transfer a ribbed top to the machine I depress the upper part, or section a³,
of the cylinder, the hooks of all of the needles being then in a suitable position to
receive the loops from the transferring frame.
In cases where the needles are extended considerably above their supporting
ring it may be desirable to arrange the quills of the transferring device to pass
down outside of the needles, but, when practicable, I prefer to have the quills
inside the needles, as the needle hooks then assist in withdrawing the loops from
the quills in the act of transferring the web.
According to another part of my Invention, I provide for holding down the work
on a circular knitting machine as follows, that is to say:-In the machine shewn in
Figures 10 and 11 I fix around the outside of the needle cylinder a, and by
preference slightly above the top of the same, a ring Ɩ, which has in its upper
surface radial grooves l', equal in number to the number of needle-grooves in
the said cylinder, and so arranged or adjusted that the grooves of the disc are
between the needle grooves of the cylinder a, they being held in this position
by one or more studs or feathers *, or other suitable means. In each of these
grooves is placed a webholding jack or slide m; these jacks are moved
slightly forward and backward at each revolution of the machine by means
of a set of cams n', n³, in a cam-ring n, which is actuated simultaneously
with the main cam ring f of the machine. These jacks have a peculiar
form or configuration, as clearly shewn in Figures 12 and 13, that is to
say, each jack is formed of a piece of thin steel or other suitable metal; it has
either on its upper or its lower hedge a heel or projection m³ to be acted upon by
the said cams; it also has a hook or notch m³, and a curved extremity or tail m³.
The end m³ of each jack is curved downwards, so that when in place in the machine
it extends inside the cylinder under the web that has been knitted, and the notch
or hook m³ is formed on the said jack in such a position as to pass over the web
between the two adjacent needles, serving at the same time to hold down the
web which is beneath it and to knock off the new stitch as it is being formed. At
each revolution or reciprocation of the machine these jacks are drawn back slightly
by the cam n³, so as to let the stitch last knitted fall from the said notches or
hooks, and are then pushed forward by the cam n³, to be ready to hold down the
work during the knitting of the next stitch. In forming the loops the needles in
descending pull the yarn down upon the jacks just behind the book or notch m²,
while the loop last formed is held by the said book. When the jack is retracted
the newly formed loop falls below the hook m²; then the jack advances for the
formation of a fresh loop. The entire web holding device may be adjusted vertically
for varying the tightness of the knitting. It is obvious that on a machine provided
with my improved web holding device the work can be commenced without a
special setting up device, and without casting loops on the needles, as is necessary in
ordinary knitting machines with self-acting needles.
In Figure 14, I have shewn one of the said jacks modified in form to adapt the

page_text: amago v PAYOD a te, ut sung in ruunal groove B
above described.
This web holding apparatus obviates the necessity for using weights or winding
up tackle.
It is evident that the above described apparatus is equally applicable to rectilinear
or curvilinear knitting machines, that is to say, machines wherein the series of
needles instead of being circular is straight or curved, but not circular.
According to another part of my said Invention, I construct a reversible circular
knitting machine capable of knitting the heel and toe of a stocking automatically.
For this purpose to a machine consisting mainly of a needle-bed, needle-cylinder,
cam-ring, cams, yarn-carrier, and series of self acting needles, as shewn in Figures 18
to 20, I add an automatic apparatus as follows, that is to say:-Instead of
employing needles which have the butt or toe at one end of the shank, as heretofore,
I construct my needles, as shewn in Figure 18, with the shank e¹ extended or
continued beyond the butt e³, say, two or three inches more or less according to the
precise purpose for which they are to be used. I construct and support the needle
cylinder, as shewn in Figure 18, in such a manner as to allow the prolonged shanks
of the needles to extend downward beyond the bed of the machine. Under the bed
of the machine I arrange one or more series of levers o; each lever of these series
corresponds with and actuates one needle, and there are as many of the said levers
as there are "narrowings" or "intakes" in forming the heel or toe of a stocking.
These levers are arranged about the axis of the machine, one end of each lever
terminating directly under its corresponding needle, and they are hinged or
fulcrummed upon a suitable support o' arranged in combination with the said
machine. The heel and toe of a stocking are each formed upon one half of the
series or set of needles in the cylinder a, and it is convenient to divide each half
part of the series of needles into three sections. The needles in the central section
are never thrown out of action. Each needle of this central section has an
auxiliary butt ³, as shewn in Figure 21, slightly above the other butt, so that
when the switch cam p is adjusted to be inoperative, the said auxiliary butt
will be raised by another cam p¹ sufficiently to allow the lower butt to engage
with the upthrow cam q. The needles of each of the other two sections I prefer
to actuate by a jacquard apparatus or pattern cylinder », which may be placed
either above or below the said levers. The said pattern cylinder is composed
of a series of wheels or discs secured tightly together, each of which has a
portion of smaller diameter than its other portion. The said pattern cylinder
is supported by vibrating arms 74, and is provided with a ratchet wheel arranged
in combination with a fixed pawl in such a manner that when the said arms
withdraw or move down with the said pattern cylinder, the latter will be turned
on its axis a distance equal to one tooth of the ratchet wheel. Each disc
arranged in combination with one of the levers o. The required movement is
imparted to the vibrating arms which carry the pattern cylinder r by suitable
connection with the needle cylinder, in such a manner that the said arms vibrate
once for each reciprocation of the said cylinder. The successive wheels or discs of
the pattern cylinder are so arranged in connection with the needles that in com-
mencing the knitting of the heel or toe the high or large portion of all of the discs
will be presented to the lever, and consequently the Intter will be raised, and all
of the needles of both sections will knit. I will however now refer only to the
right hand section of the needles. At the next complete reciprocation or to and
fro movement of the needle cylinder the pattern cylinder is turned by the pawl
sufficiently to leave the first lever on the right hand of the section clear of the high
or large part of its operating wheel, therefore the first needle will not be raised
sufficiently to engage with the upthrow cam q. At the next reciprocation of the
needle cylinder the second needle will in like manner be rendered inoperative, and
so on until all of the needles in the same section have ceased to knit. In this manner
the first half of the heel or too is narrowed; now to widen out the other half of the
is

page_text: same the continued rotation of the pattern cylinder turns all of the wheels,
commencing at the left hand, successively into such positions as to bring all of the
needles, one after the other, again into position to engage with the said upthrow
cam and recommence knitting.
In machines intended for very coarse work I may dispense with the levers o,
and actuate the needles directly by the said pattern cylinder, but I consider the
machine more reliable in its operation when the said levers are used.
Instead of using needles which have their shanks extended beyond their butts,
as above described, I may employ needles of the usual form, and provide separate
jacks or wire rods arrange:1 below the butts to act on the same for transmitting
the motion from the pattern-apparatus to the said needles.
In my improved machine when the needles are at rest I prefer that they shall
hang suspended from the loops of the fabric by their hooks. When knitting the
round work of the leg and foot of a stocking the aforesaid pattern apparatus is
entirely out of action, and the needles are raised by the adjustable or switch
cam to engage with the upthrow cam, and thus free their latches from the
loops of the fabric. In knitting the heel and toe, however, this cam is rendered
inactive, and the required number of needles are lifted into action by the pattern
apparatus.
In the above described machines the cam ring rotates around the needle
cylinder, but it is obvious that my improvements may be applied or adapted to
machines in which the cain ring is stationary and the needle cylinder rotates around
the same.
Having thus fully described my said Invention, and the manner of performing
the same, I wish it understood that I claim,-
First. In a circular knitting machine, in which self-acting or latch needles are
used, the employment of moans substantially as described, for bringing all of the
said needles at the same time into one plane with their hooks above or clear of the
needle cylinder, and supporting them in this position for the purpose of transferring
to them the ribbed top of a stocking or other knitted fabric.
Second. A circular transferring device, substantially as described, which has a
series of quills arranged either horizontally or vertically on the part which supports
them, and so shaped as to partially embrace or cover the needles, and upon which
the loops of the knitted web are placed for the purpose of being transferred to the
needles of a circular knitting machine, as herein described.
Third. The modification of this device, as herein set forth, whereby I adapt the
same to a straight or curvilinear series of quills for use in a machine in which self-
acting needles are used for the purpose specified.
Fourth. In a circular knitting machine the employment of a series of sliding or
vibrating web holding jacks, operating in combination with the needles, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose specified.
Fifth. In combination with a circular knitting machine a web holding device
situated outside of the needle cylinder, and consisting essentially of the radially
grooved dial, the sliding jacks, and the cam ring with its cams for actuating the
said jacks, as and for the purpose specified.
Sixth. In a circular knitting machine the combination with the cams carried by
the cam ring of mechanisin constructed and operating substantially as described
for determining which needle or needles shall act at each reciprocation or revolution
of the said cam-ring, for the purpose set forth.
Seventh. In combination with the needle cylinder and cam ring of a circular
knitting machine the series of levers arranged to be adjusted by means of a pattern
cylinder operating as set forth, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Eighth. In a circular knitting machine the arrangement whereby the needles
acting in the formation of the heel and too are divided into three sections, in one
of which sections the needles are never out of action, while in the other two
sections the needles are adjusted to be either active or inactive by means of a
pattern apparatus, as and for the purpose specified.

page_text: Ninth. In the said knitting machine the means whereby the needles provided
with the auxiliary butt are caused to operate, as and for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Josiah Griswold, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirty first day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty.
HI GRISWOLD.
(1.8.)