THE MANUFACTURY OF ENGLISH CRAPES FROM SILKS DYED AND COLOURED BOTH BEFORE AND AFTER THEY ARE THROWN, OR SPUN INTO CRAPE, SILK, OR SILK FOR MANUFACTURING OF CRAPE, AND INTRODUCING WEAVING OR WORKING INTO THE WARP AND SHUTE OF SUCH CRAPES, BLACK, WHITE, COLOURED, AND FANCY SILKS, AND ALSO BLACK, WHITE, COLOURED, AND FANCY COTTONS AND WORSTED, AND LIKEWISE. GOLD AND SILVER, AND EVERY OTHER DESCRIPTION OF PLAIN OR FANCY MATERIALS
Year: 1814

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, DANIEL
GOODALL, of Burton Latimer, in the County of Northampton, Crape Manu-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS His present Majesty, our most Gracious Sovereign Lord King
George the Third, by the Grace of God of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland King, Defender of the Faith, by His Letters Patent
under the Great Seal of the said United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Twelfth day of March last, reciting,
that I, the said Daniel Goodall, had by my petition humbly represented to
His said Majesty that I had invented "THE MANUFACTURY OF ENGLISH CRAPES
FROM SILKS DYED AND COLOURED BOTH BEFORE AND AFTER THEY ARE THROWN, OR
SPUN INTO CRAPE, SILK, OR SILK FOR MANUFACTURING OF CRAPE, AND INTRODUCING
WEAVING OR WORKING INTO THE WARP AND SHUTE OF SUCH CRAPES, BLACK, WHITE,
COLOURED, AND FANCY SILKS, AND ALSO BLACK, WHITE, COLOURED, AND FANCY
COTTONS AND WORSTED, AND LIKEWISE. GOLD AND SILVER, AND EVERY OTHER
DESCRIPTION OF PLAIN OR FANCY MATERIALS," that I was the first and true
Inventor thereof, and that the same had not been practised by. any other person
or persons whomsoever to my knowledge or belief, and therefore most
humbly prayed that His said Majesty would be graciously pleased to grant to
me, my executors, administrators, and assigns, His Royal Letters Patent
under the Greal Seal of His said United Kingdom for the sole use, benefit,
and advantage of my said Invention within England, Wales, and the Town of

page_text: Berwick-upon-Tweed, for the term of fourteen years, pursuant to the Statute
in that case made and provided, and that His said Majesty, being willing to
give encouragement to all arts and inventions which might be for the public
good, was graciously pleased to condescend to my request, did, for Himself,
His heirs, and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Daniel Goodall,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, His special licence, full power,
sole privilege and authority, that I, the said Daniel Goodall, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, and every of us, by myself and ourselves, or by my
and our deputy or deputies, servants or agents, or such others as I, the said
Daniel Goodall, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend my said Invention within that part of His said
Majesty's United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, His
Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, in such manner as
to me, the said Daniel Goodall, my executors, administrators, or assigns,
or any of us, should in my or our discretion seem meet, and that I, the said
Daniel Goodall, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should and lawfully
might have and enjoy the whole profit, benefit, commodity, and advantage
from time to time coming, growing, accruing, and arising by reason of the
said Invention for and during the term of years therein mentioned; to have,
hold, exercise, and enjoy the said licence, powers, privileges, and advantages
therein-before granted or mentioned to be granted to me, the said Daniel
Goodall, my executors, administrators, and assigns, for and during and unto
the full end and term of fourteen years from the date of the said Letters
Patent next and immediately ensuing, and fully to be complete and ended,
according to the Statute in such case made and provided; in which said
Letters Patent are contained the usual directions and provisoes, and amongst
others a certain proviso to the effect following, that is to say, that if I, the
said Daniel Goodall, should not particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of my said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, and cause the same to be
inrolled in His Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the reciting Letters Patent, that then
the same Letters Patent, and all liberties and advantages whatsoever thereby
granted, should utterly cease, determine, and become void, anything therein-
before contained to the contrary thereof in anywise notwithstanding, as by
the said Letters Patent and the record thereof, reference being thereunto
had, may and will more fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Daniel Goodall, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are particularly described
and ascertained in manner following, that is to say:-
Whereas in the methods of manufacturing crapes, which have hitherto been
made use of, the silk is hard twisted, and then wooven into a gause and
crimped and dressed without depriving the material of its natural gum in
most fabrics or crapes which are to be plain black; and whereas with regard
to crapes intended to be dyed of one uniform fancy colour or left white, the
practice has hitherto been to boil the goods with soap, or otherwise, sub-
sequently to the weaving and crimping, by which means the silk becomes wholly
or almost wholly deprived of its natural gum, and the crapes are thereby
rendered fit to be dyed in the piece by the usual methods: Now, instead of
the said recited processes, I do, according to the colour intended to be given,
and kind of goods (or patterns) intended to be produced, dye my silk either
in the skains or after the same shall have been thrown or spun (but before
the weaving), and either in the gum, or after the same shall have been deprived
of so much of its gum by boiling with soap, or otherwise, as such intended
colour and kind of goods (or patterns may require. And as to the method of
boiling off and sulphuring my thrown or twisted silk, which is intended either
for white crape silk or coloured crape silk, I cause the same to be in the first
instance wound upon a reel previous to the boiling off and sulphuring (which
is generally necessary as well for coloured as white crape silk), in order to
prevent the same from snarling, furling, or drawing itself together, as it other-
wise would do, on which reel the same is boiled off and sulphured; and when
the same is so boiled off and sulphured, I cause the same, if intended for white.
crape silk, to be unwound from the said reel in that state upon bobbins, or
drawn off into a warp or shute, in order to its being woven; and if intended for
coloured crape silk, I cause the same, after it has been so boiled off and sul-
phured, to be immersed in the dye upon reels provided for each particular colour,
and when the same shall have been so dyed to be unwound from the said reel
and wound upon bobbins, or drawn off into a warp or shute in order to its being
woven. And I do, after such preparation as aforesaid, proceed to weave the said
crape silks either in plain colours, or in patterns formed by different coloured
silks in the warp or shute of the goods, either along with or without the admix-
ture of threads of cotton, worsted, gold, and silver, or with or without any other
description of plain or fancy materials, so as by such weaving and admixture
to produce a great variety of patterns accordingly, as choice or the demand of
the consumer may determine, encourage, or require. And, lastly, I do crimp,

page_text: dress, or finish the goods so wrought, manufactured, and made pursuant to my
said Invention, by all and every or any of the methods or. means now in
general use for those purposes.
In witness whereof, I, the said Daniel Goodall, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Tenth day of August, in the fifty-fourth year of the
reign of our Sovereign Lord George the Third, by the Grace of God
of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, King, Defender
of the Faith, and in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and fourteen.