Improvements in Sewing Machines specially applicable for Stitching Boot Soles.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 14th May, 1897
Complete Specification Left, 14th Mar., 1898-Accepted, 14th May, 1898
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Complete Specification Left, 14th Mar., 1898-Accepted, 14th May, 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines specially applicable for Stitching
Boot Soles.
We, GEORGE HARRY SCETRINI, of 82, Barnby Street, Stratford, in the County
of Essex, Mechanic, and HERBERT KYNASTON BRIDGER, Gentleman, of 2, Danes
Inn, Strand, in the County of London, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion to be as follows:-
This invention for improvements in sewing machines specially applicable for
stitching boot soles has for its object to operate the awl and presser foot in an
improved manner, to provide an improved means for retaining sufficient thread
to form one side of the loop to be next pulled through the work by the needle
before the thread is inserted behind the barb to obviate the see-sawing of the
thread in the needle, to provide an improved means for casting off or releasing
the thread from behind the barb of the needle after it has been caught up by the
shuttle hook, to drive the shuttle one complete rotation and then lock it whilst
the driving mechanism returns to its initial position, to lock the tension device
whilst the take up is working until the stitch is pulled in and then to unlock it.
In carrying out this invention as applied to a machine in which the shuttle and
presser foot are arranged above the table, the awl and presser foot carriers are
mounted on a fixed shaft on which they can be slid endwise and rotated. A
curved arm clamped loosely in a segment of a circumferential groove between the
awl and presser foot carriers is connected to a slide that is traversed lengthwise
of the machine, through an adjustable lever determinating the length of traverse,
by means of the race in a barrel cam to feed the awl and presser foot at the
required times and to draw it back. The carriers are each formed with a segment
of teeth one being broad and the other narrow and they gear respectively into
narrow and broad teeth segments each driven through suitable mechanism from a
race in a disc cam to give the required motions whilst allowing of the lateral feed
motions. In the mechanism driving the presser foot, is a sliding piece that.
transmits the required motion but slips when a certain pressure of the presser
foot is attained and is forced forwards by a spring when the presser foot is relieved
of pressure. The cam lever is guided and has a pin working in a slot in a lever
guided by links and forced in the direction of its length by a spring. When the
pressure of the pin in the slot exceeds a certain amount, the slotted lever slips
back against the spring. It will be readily understood that the actual position
of this sliding piece when the presser foot is pressing on the leather is determined
by the thickness of the leather. This sliding piece is connected to a weighted
handle that owing to its momentum checks the action of the spring and serves
also as a handle for raising the presser foot.
The thread puller has a backwards and forwards motion being forced against
the edge of a disc cam by a spring. Just before the looper places the thread behind
the barb of the needle it comes between the looper and the work and draws off
sufficient thread to form one side of the loop.

page_text: The looper is mounted in a sliding bearing subjected to the action of a race
in a disc cam to give the bearing and thus the looper a forwards and backwards
motion and the looper itself is subjected to the action of a race in a barrel cam
to give it a lateral reciprocating motion, the total action being that it passes com-
pletely round the lower end of the needle when the needle is in its lowered position
to place the thread behind the barb.
When the shuttle has entered the loop, a cast off or releaser finger operated by
a race on a barrel cam is moved laterally and forces the thread from out of the
barb of the needle.
It
The shuttle driver is connected to a driving pinion by a ratchet, and the pinion
gears into a segment of teeth reciprocated vertically by a race in a disc cam.
makes a complete revolution in the forward direction for each stitch and is locked
by a projection, operated by the edge of a disc cam, taking into a recess in the
driver when it has completed its evolution so that it is held stationary and in]
position whilst the tooth segment and pinion are returning to their initial positions.
To prevent the shuttle over-shooting its mark, the rearward edge of the recess is
higher than the forward edge so that it catches the projection. The projection
is drawn out of the recess by the cam when the shuttle is to be rotated.
The take up is actuated by the race of a disc cam and the tension is locked
whilst the take up is working but is unlocked just before the take up completes its
motion. The exact time of the unlocking is determined by the position of the
sliding piece of the presser foot motion and thus depends on the thickness of the
leather. The sliding piece is connected by suitable gearing to a cam lever
operated by the edge of a disc cam and moves it backwards or forwards to
determine the point at which it is operated by the disc cam and the lever operates
a band brake on one side of the double tension pulley.
The cams may be arranged on a single shaft in the following order:—Take
disc looper lateral, barrel race-looper forward, disc race-shuttle motion, disc
up,
race thread puller, disc edge-shuttle locking, disc edge-needle motion, dise
race, thread locking, disc edge-awl motion, disc race-presser foot motion,
disc race awl and presser foot lateral (feed motion), barrel race-loop cast off
motion, barrel race.
The order of operations is as follows:-
1. Awl pierces work-tension unlocked--take up motion drawing off tension.
2. Feed motion. Awl and presser foot move laterally and feed work for length
of stitch.
3. Awl recedes-needle advances through hole in work-thread puller draws
off one side of loop-shuttle driving mechanism commences to return.
4. Presser foot raised.
5. Return feed motion. Awl and presser foot return laterally-looper makes
complete motion for placing thread in barb of needle.
6. Presser foot lowered-needle returns drawing loop through work-thread
puller returns take up rises-loop releaser or cast off returns.
7. Shuttle hook enters loop.
8. Loop releaser or cast off throws loop out of needle barb-shuttle motion
continues tension locked.
9. Shuttle motion completed,-one-revolution-take up completely draws in
stitch.
Dated th: 141
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.

page_text: COMPLETE DIECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines specially applicable for Stitching
Boot Soles.
We, GEORGE HARRY SCETRINI, of 82, Barnby Street, Stratford, in the County
of Essex, Mechanic, and HERBERT KYNASTON BRIDGER, Gentleman, of 2, Danes
Inn, Strand, in the County of London, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:--
This invention for improvements in sewing machines specially applicable for
stitching boot soles has for its object to operate the awl and presser foot in an
improved manner, to provide an improved means for retaining a sufficient thread
to form one side of the loop to be next pulled through the work by the needle
before the thread is inserted behind the barb to obviate the see-sawing of the
thread in the needle, to provide an improved means for casting off or releasing
the thread from behind the barb of the needle after it has been caught up by the
shuttle hook, to drive the shuttle one complete rotation and then lock it whilst
the driving mechanism returns to its initial position, to lock the tension device
whilst the take up is working until the stitch is pulled in and then to unlock it.
In carrying out this invention as applied to a machine in which the shuttle and
presser foot are arranged above the table, the awl and presser foot carriers are
mounted on a shaft on which they can be slid endwise and rotated. A.
curved arm clamped loosely in a segment of a circumferential groove between the
awl and presser foot carriers is connected to a slide that is traversed lengthwise
of the machine, through an adjustable lever determining the length of traverse,
by means of the race in a barrel cam to feed the awl and presser foot at the
required times and to draw it back. The carriers are each formed with a segment
of teeth one being broad and the other narrow and they gear respectively into
narrow and broad teeth segments each driven through suitable mechanism from a
race in a disc cam to give the required motions whilst allowing of the lateral feed
motions. In the mechanism driving the presser foot, is a sliding piece that
transmits the required motion but slips when a certain pressure of the presser
foot is attained and is forced forwards by a spring when the presser foot is relieved.
of pressure. The cam lever is guided and has a pin working in a slot in a lever
guided by links and forced in the direction of its length by a spring. When the
pressure on the presser foot exceeds a certain amount, the slotted lever slips back
against the spring. It will be readily understood that the actual position of
this sliding piece when the presser foot is pressing on the leather is determined by
the thickness of the leather. This sliding piece is connected to a weighted handle,
that, owing to its momentum checks the action of the spring and serves also as a
handle for raising the presser foot.
The needle carrier is fixed on the shaft carrying the awl and presser foot carrier,
the shaft being driven by a suitable cam on the main shaft.
The thread puller has a backwards and forwards motion being operated from
the shaft on which the needle carrier is fixed and the awl and presser foot carriers
are loose. Just before the looper places the thread behind the barb of the needle it
comes between the looper and the work and draws off sufficient thread to form one
side of the loop.
The looper is mounted in a sliding bearing subjected to the action of a race in
a disc cam to give the bearing and thus the looper a forwards and backwards
motion and the looper itself is subjected to the motion of a race in a barrel cam to
give it a lateral reciprocating motion, the total action being that it passes com-

page_text: pletely round the lower end of the needle when the needle is in its lowered position
to place the thread behind the barb.
When the shuttle has entered the loop, a cast off or releaser finger operated by
a race on a barrel cam is moved laterally and forces the thread from out of the
barb of the needle.
It
The shuttle driver is connected to a driving pinion by a ratchet, and the pinion
gears into a segment of teeth reciprocated vertically by a race in a disc cam.
makes a complete revolution in the forward direction for each stitch and is locked
by a projection, operated by the edge of a disc cam, taking into a recess in the
driver when it has completed its revolution so that it is held stationary and in
position whilst the tooth segment and pinion are returning to their initial positions.
To prevent the shuttle over-shooting its mark, the rearward edge of the recess is
higher than the forward edge so that it catches the projection. The projection
is drawn out of the recess by the cam when the shuttle is to be rotated.
The take up is actuated by the race of a disc cam and the tension is locked
whilst the take up is working but is unlocked just before the take up completes its
motion. The exact tinue of the unlocking is determined by the position of the
sliding piece of the presser foot motion and thus depends on the thickness of the
leather. The sliding piece is connected by suitable gearing to a cam lever
operated by the edge of a disc cam and moves it backwards or forwards to
determine the point at which it is operated by the disc cam and the lever operates
a band brake on one side of the double tension pulley.
In the accompanying sheets of illustrative drawings: Fig. 1 is a plan of a boot
sewing machine constructed according to this invention, and Fig. 2 is a front
elevation Fig. 3 is a right end elevation, Figs. 4, 5 and 6 are sectional elevations
on the lines xx, yy, z―z respectively, of the same. Figs. 7 and 8 are detail
views showing the shaft for imparting the feed motion to the presser foot and awl.
Fig. 9 is an end elevation of the presser foot and awl with their carriers. Fig. 10
is an end elevation of the needle and its carrier. Figs. 11 and 12 are detail views
of the shuttle driving mechanism. Fig. 13 is a front elevation of the shuttle
box and awl, presser foot and needle carriers. Fig. 14 is a section showing the
manner in which the awl, presser foot and needle carrier are mounted.
The awl is fixed in a carrier 2 mounted on a shaft B supported in bearings in
the frame A of the machine. The awl carrier 2 is provided with a segment of
narrow teeth 3 and with a boss 4. The presser foot 5 is fixed in a carrier 6
mounted on the boss 4 of the awl carrier 2 and retained thereon by a pin 8 taking
into a circumferential groove 9 in the boss 4. The presser foot carrier 6 is provided
with a segment 7 of a circular groove adapted to receive the segmental arm 10 of
a shaft C mounted in bearings in the frame A and free to slide axially. The
segmental arm 10 is retained in the groove 7 by the face of the awl carrier 2 and
thus moves the awl and presser foot carriers with it laterally for the feed motion
but leaves the carriers free to be rotated on the shaft B. The presser foot carrier 6
is provided with a broad segment of teeth 11. The narrow teeth 3 of the awl
carrier gear with a broad toothed segment 12 on a cam lever 13 fulcrumed to a
shaft F and provided with a roller 14 working in the race cut in one face of the
disc D mounted on the main shaft E.
The broad teeth 11 of the presser foot carrier gear with a toothed segment 15
on a shaft 16 having another toothed-segment 17 gearing with a toothed segment
on a bell crank lever 18 pivoted to the frame at 19, Fig. 3, and connected by the
link 20 to the end of a rocking bar 21 connected by a link 22 to the shaft and
forced in the direction of the arrow by the spring 221. The rocking bar-21 is
provided at its centre or nearly so with a slot into which takes the pin 23 of a cam
lever 24 having at one end a roller 25 working in the race in the other face of the
disc D and at the other end being guided in the hole 26 in the frame A.
The action is as follows:-When the cam lever 24 is forced downwards by the
disc race cam D the presser foot is raised to allow of the return lateral feed motion.
When the presser foot is in this position the resistance to its downward motion is

page_text: removed by the presser foot being withdrawn from the work and the spring 221
forces the rocking bar 21 in the direction of the arrow so as to ensure that when
next depressed the pressure foot will come down firmly on the work. When the
cam lever 24 is forced upwards by the cam D it forces the presser foot down on to
the work until the pressure of the foot on the work attains a certain amount. If
this amount of pressure is attained before the cam lever 24 is completely raised
the resistance of the presser foot to further motion causes the rocking bar 21 to
move in the direction opposite to the arrow so as to prevent under the action
of the cam further downward motion of the presser foot and consequent increase of
pressure. The presser foot thus automatically adjusts itself to the thickness of
the work. The pressure of the presser foot is thus practically the same always
and depends principally on the resistance of the rocking bar 21 to rocking motion
and the angle of the link 20 and rocking bar 21.
Normally while the stitch is being formed or the work being fed the parts occupy
the positions shown and any pressure exerted on the presser foot whilst the awl is
piercing the sole is transmitted directly to the cam D so that the sole is held
rigidly as such pressure is not sufficient to cause the rocking bar 21 to slip back
in the direction opposite to the arrow.
The function of the spring 22' is practically to force the rocking bar 21 longi-
tudinally forwards when the presser foot is raised from off the work so that even
when working from thick to thin it shall always be brought to bear on the leather
with the desired pressure; but it is also desirable to reduce this motion to the
smallest amount consistent with the efficient working of the machine so as to
render the working of the machine more smooth. The forward movement which
should be sufficient to compensate for slightly more than the greatest decrease
in thickness in the leather to be sewn that is likely to occur in practice from one
stitch to the next depends on the speed of the machine, the inertia of the parts to
be moved, the strength of the spring 221 and the angle of the link 22 and rocking
bar 21. To regulate the amount of this forward motion the inertia of the parts
can be increased to the requisite degree by means of a weight acting on the rock-
ing bar 21 in a suitable manner.
This is conveniently effected by a weighted hand lever at 27 that can also serve
to raise the presser foot by hand, for example, when inserting or removing work.
The hand or bell crank lever 27 pivoted to the frame at 28 has a slot engaging with
a pin 98 screwing into the pivot connecting the link 22 to the rocking bar 21. On
depressing the knob on the end of the lever 27, the rocking bar 21 is rocked in.
the opposite direction to the arrow and raises the presser foot. On releasing the
lever 27 the spring 221 causes the presser foot to again descend. Any action
of the spring to move the rocking bar in the direction of the arrow has to over-
come the inertia of the weighted hand lever. The amount the rocking bar 21 is
moved forward by the spring 221 after each stitch, which as before stated depends
on the velocity of the machine and the inertia of the parts is in practice so small
that it can barely be seen.
The shaft C that effects the feed and return motions of the awl and presser foot
is secured by lock nuts 30 to the arm 31 of a slide 32 having a deep groove 33
cut across the direction of its traverse. A pin 34 adjustable in a slot 35 in the
cam lever 36 takes into the groove 33. The cam lever 36 has a roller 37 working
in the race of a barrel cam H that effects the feed motion, and is fulcrumed at 361
to the frame A. The position of the pin 34 in the slot 35 is adjusted to adjust the
length of feed motion and thus the length of stitch by the hand lever 38 pivoted
to the slide at 39 and having a short slot (to allow for the radial motion of the
lever) in which bears the pin 34. The lever can be fixed in position by pins
taking into holes 40 in the slide. The narrow and broad segments of teeth 3 and
11 allow of the requisite traverse of the awl and presser foot carriers without their
coming out of gear with their operating mechanism.
The needle 41 is mounted in a carrier 42 fixed on the shaft B and is guided in
the usual way by the guide 43 mounted on the carrier and held in position by the .

page_text: spring 44 fixed to the guide 43 and carrier. 42. The carrier 42 is provided with
a toothed segment 45 gearing with a toothed sector 46 on a cam lever 47 fulcrumed
on the shaft P and having a roller 48 taking into a race (shown dotted in Fig. 4)
in the face of the disc L keyed on the main shaft E. The shaft B and needle
carrier 42 are thus operated together, the shaft B moving freely in the awl carrier.
The looper lever 49 carries at one end the thread guide 50 and is pivoted at 51
to a carriage 52 and connected at its other end by the link 53 to the arm 54 fixed
on a shaft 55 mounted in the carriage 52 and having at its other end an armi 56
carrying a roller engaging in the race of the barrel cam M. The carriage 52
slides in the frame and as shown in Fig. 6 is connected to the bell crank lever 57
pivoted to the frame at 58 and having at its other end a roller 59 working in a
race in one face of the barrel cam M (forming a disc race cam). The looper thus
describes a circular motion completely round the needle and places the thread in
the barb of the needle.
Between the guide 50 and the table 60 is the thread puller 61 sliding on the
frame at 62 and provided with rack teeth gearing with a toothed sector 62¹ con-
nected by a link 622 to a crank arm 623 on the end of the shaft B carrying the needle
carrier.
The shuttle 63 is mounted in the box 64 and is driven by the projection 65 on
the driver 66 fixed on a shaft 67 see Figs. 5, 11, and 12, mounted in the main
frame A and fixed to it by the pin 68 is the ring 69 formed with a notch into
which takes a spring pawl 70 carried by a toothed wheel 71 mounted loosely on
the shaft 67. The toothed wheel 71 is driven by the toothed sector 72 on the end
of a cam lever 73 fulcrumed on the shaft P and having a roller taking into a raco
in the face of the disc O. On the top of the driver 66 is a notch into which a
projection 74 from a cam lever 75 is drawn by the spring 76. When the driver
is to be rotated the cam lever 75 fulcrumed on the shaft P is raised by the cam
edge of the disc L, whose race operates the needle.
Just above the needle when in its raised position is the cast off finger or arm 77
fixed on a shaft 78 mounted in the shuttle box and having at its other end a
toothed sector 79 gearing with a rack on the end of a slide 80 pivoted to a cam
lever S1 fulcrumed at 82 and having a roller working in the race of the barrel
cam R.
The take up arm 83 is mounted on a shaft 84 mounted in the frame and having
at its other end an arm 85 connected by a link 86 to a cam, lever 87 fulcrumed on
a pivot T and carrying a roller 88 working in the race in the other face of the
barrel cam M.
The tension pulley 89 is mounted on a sliding bracket 92 and has a band 90
fixed at 91 to the bracket 92 supporting the tension pulley. The other end of the
band 90 is connected to a cam lever 93 fulcrumed at 94 to the bracket 92 and
provided with a roller drawn by a spring 130, against the edge of the disc D in
which are cut the two races for the awl and presser foot motions. The sliding
bracket 92 has rack teeth 95 gearing with an idle toothed wheel 96 itself gearing
with rack teeth on a slide 97 provided with a short slot engaging with the pin 98
that connects the handle 27 to the rocking bar 21 so that it is moved with the
rocking bar. The position of the rocking bar thus determines the position of
the bracket 92 and consequently of the cam lever and its roller. The cam acts
on the band to cause it to brake or release the tension pulley and according to
the position of the roller and to the thickness of the leather the tension is released
earlier or later.
The order of operations is as follows.
The awl pierces the work and at the same time the tension is unlocked and the
take up motion draws off thread from tension.
Then the feed motion takes place, the awl and presser foot being moved laterally
to feed the work for the desired length of stitch.
Afterwards the awl recedes as the needle advances through hole in the work

page_text: and at the same time the thread puller draws off one side of loop and the shuttle
driving mechanism commences to return.
Then the presser foot is raised to allow of the next or return feed motion, the awl
and presser foot being returned laterally, and whilst this is taking place the looper
makes a complete motion for placing the thread in the barb of the needle.
The presser foot is afterwards again lowered, the needle returns drawing loop
through work, the thread puller returns, the take up rises and the loop releaser or
cast off returns. The shuttle hook then enters the loop; and afterwards the loop
releaser or cast off throws the loop out of the needle barb whilst the shuttle motion
continues and at the same time the tension is locked. Finally the shuttle com-
pletes its revolution and the take up completely draws in stitch.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
_
1. In a boot and shoe sole sewing machine the means for operating and impart-
ing the required pressure to the presser foot or work support, whatever the thick-
ness of the work, consisting of a cam and mechanism for transmitting the motion,
of the cam to the presser foot or work support comprising a rocking bar or lever
arranged in the said mechanism and transmitting the motion at an angle, links
suspending the rocking bar so that it can move in the direction of its length, of a
sliding part on the lever through which the motion is transmitted, and a means
for forcing the rocking lever in a direction of its length opposed to the pressure
on the presser foot or work support.
2. In a boot and shoe sole sewing machine the means for operating and impart-
ing the required pressure to the presser foot or work support whatever the thick-
ness of the work, consisting of a can, a guided cam lever, a rocking lever suspended
on links and connected to the cam lever so that it is left free to rock in the direction
of its length a mechanism transmitting the motion of the rocking lever to the
presser foot or work support, a link connecting the said mechanism to the rocking
lever at an angle, and a means for forcing the rocking lever in the direction of
its length opposed to the pressure on the presser foot or work support.
3. In a boot and shoe sole sewing machine the means for operating and impart-
ing the required pressure to the presser foot or work support, whatever the thick-
ness of the work, consisting of a cam and of mechanism for transmitting the
motion of the cam to the presser foot or work support, comprising a rocking bar
or lever arranged in the said mechanism and transmitting the motion at an angle,
links suspending the rocking bar so that it can move in the direction of its length,
of a sliding part on the lever through which the motion is transmitted, a spring
forcing the rocking lever in the direction of its length opposed to the pressure
on the presser foot or work support and a counter-weighted lever opposing the
action of the spring.
4. In a boot and shoe sole sewing machine the means for operating and impart-
ing the required pressure to the presser foot or work support whatever the thickness
of the work, consisting of a cam, a guided cam lever, a rocking lever suspended
on links and connected to the cam lever so that it is left free to rock in the direction
of its length, a mechanism for transmitting the motion of the rocking lever to
the presser foot or work support, a link connecting the said mechanism to the
rocking lever at an angle, a spring forcing the rocking lever in the direction of
its length opposed to the pressure on the presser foot or work support and a
counterweighted lever opposing the action of the spring.
5. The awl and presser foot mechanism consisting of a shaft, awl and presser
foot carriers free to slide and rotate on the shaft, a slide having a curved arm
engaging in a circumferential groove between the two carriers, a means for securing
the two carriers together but leaving them free to be rotated independently, a
cam, and means for transmitting the motion of the cam to the slide.
6. The awl presser foot and needle mechanism, consisting of a shaft, a needle

page_text: carrier fixed on the shaft, awl and presser foot carriers free to slide and rotate on
the shaft, and a means for sliding the awl and presser foot carriers on the shaft
whilst leaving them free to be rotated.
7. The looper motion, consisting of a sliding bearing, a looper mounted on the
bearing, a cam actuating the looper, and a second cam actuating the bearing.
8. The mechanism for throwing the thread out of the barb of the needle, con-
sisting of a looper finger mounted on a slide, and a cam actuating the finger.
9. The shuttle mechanism consisting of a rack, a pinion gearing into the rack,
a cam for reciprocating the rack, a shuttle driver, a ratchet mechanism connecting
the pinion and shuttle driver, a lock for the shuttle driver and a cam actuating
the lock.
10. The mechanism for locking and unlocking the tension consisting of a
tension apparatus, a means for locking and unlocking the tension, a lever actuating
the locking and unlocking mechanism, a cam actuating the lever, a carrier
mechanism supporting the lever and connected to the presser foot mechanism so
that the position of the lever is determined by the thickness of the leather.
-
11. The mechanism for locking and unlocking the tension consisting of a tension
apparatus, a brake acting on the tension, a lever actuating the brake, a cam acta-
ating the lever, a slide carrying the fulcrum of the lever and a mechanism con-
necting the slide to the presser foot mechanism so that the position of the slide is
governed by the thickness of the leather.
12. The thread puller mechanism, consisting of a finger, a slide guiding the
finger between the looper and the work, and a cam actuating the slide.
Dated this 14th day of March 1898
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.