A NEW OR IMPROVED METHOD OF FORMING A GROUND IN THE MESHES OF NET AND OPENWORKED FABRICS AND THE COATING OF SUCH OTHER POWDER TO PRODUCE AN GROUND ON BOTH SIDES BY METAL OR ORNAMENTAL EFFECT IN SOLID PATTERN AND FLAT WITH THE SURFACES OF THE FABRIC PRO SP
Year: 1883

page_text: Method of Forming a Ground in the Meshes of Net and Open-
worked Fabrics and the Coating of such Ground on both sides
by Metal or other Powder to Produce an Ornamental Effect
in Solid Pattern and Flat with the Surfaces of the Fabric.
an
LETTERS PATENT to Charles James Cox of the firm of Charles Cox and Sons
Bleachers, Dyers and Lace Finishers Queens Road Nottingham for
Invention of A NEW OR IMPROVED METHOD OF FORMING A GROUND IN THE
MESHES OF NET AND OPENWORKED FABRICS AND THE COATING OF SUCH
OTHER POWDER TO PRODUCE AN
GROUND ON BOTH SIDES BY METAL OR
ORNAMENTAL EFFECT IN SOLID PATTERN AND FLAT WITH THE SURFACES OF
THE FABRIC
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles James Cox at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 25th August 1883.
CHARLES JAMES Cox of the firm of Charles Cox and Sons Bleachers, Dyers and
Lace Finishers Queens Road Nottingham A NEW OR IMPROVED METHOD OF
FORMING A GROUND IN THE MESHES OF NET AND OPENWORKED FABRICS AND
THE COATING OF SUCH GROUND ON BOTH SIDES BY METAL OR OTHER POWDER TO
SOLID PATTERN AND FLAT WITH THE
PRODUCE AN ORNAMENTAL EFFECT IN
SURFACES OF THE FABRIC
The object of my invention is to ornament net and openworked fabrics with
metal or other powder on both sides at one operation to form a flat spot or device
on and incorporated in the mesh of the fabric as to be solid, flat and smooth on
both sides.
For the purpose of my invention I employ pins or other appliance dipped in
liquid india rubber to touch the surface of the fabric. The liquid india rubber is
caused to leave the pins and sink into the meshes or openings yet adhering to the
fabric. The fabric is then passed into and through a box or vessel in which metal

page_text: or other powder is floating, through excessive agitation, The liquid india-rubber
having in its travel or movement to the box or vessel given off the solvent spirit
which held it in solution and has become somewhat solid and flat forming a ground
work on which the flocculent powder deposits it-elf
The fabric is then passed out of the box or vessel and is brashed to remove the
surplus powder after which it is pressed to more completely combine the powder
with the now solid india rubber ground
Lace, net, and other openworked fabrics by this invention can be ornamented) to
any extent and to any design or device without increasing the thickness or having
protuberances on either surface.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Charles James Cox in the Patent Office on the 23rd February
1884.
CHARLES JAMES Cox of the firm of Charles Cox and Sons Bleachers Dyers and
Lace Finishers Queens Road Nottingham "A NEW OR IMPROVED METHOD OF
FORMING A GROUND IN THE MESHES OF NET AND OPENWORKED FABRICS AND THE
COATING OF SUCH GROUND ON BOTH SIDES BY METAL OR OTHER POWDER TO PRODUCE
AN ORNAMENTAL EFFECT IN SOLID PATTERN AND FLAT WITH THE SURFACES OF
THE FABRIC
"3
The
Hitherto, net, lace, tulle and other fabrics have been ornamented by dyeing, by
printing, by soufflet (gummed paper) or by pressing metallized mastic on to the
surface as an embellishment on or to the surface or gum spots by sprinkling or as
beads have been fixed on and many pleasing and effective designs or devices have
been produced thereby but in all these cases except in that of the dyeing or
printing the body of the fabric has been increased in thickness, or bulk the
embellishments being also of a fragile character and liable to lose their brilliancy
and spread by climatic action particularly during damp weather as to affect the
durability and the consequent utility of the article during use or wear.
purpose of my invention is to obviate these disadvantages and to produce an
embellishment or ornamentation of net, lace, muslins and like openworked fabrics
of a firmer and more permanent character and less liable to be deteriorated by
exposure or wear. At the same time no disadvantageous alteration is made in the
original thickness of the fabric by my system of ornamentation, as it is applied.
without causing protuberances in such a manner that the embellishments or
ornamentations are placed and held within the meshes and are caused to adhere
with the requisite firmness to the threads forming the walls of the meshes the
ornamented fabric retaining a flat and level surface on both sides.
The adhesive body I prefer to employ for forming my designs or ornaments
applied as hereinafter described is, india rubber in solution, this being when dry,
pliable and damp proof; it is not liable to crack or spread or detach itself from the
fabric. The india rubber while in a state of semi-solution and before the solvent
has evaporated is coated with metal in powder or with flock, with silk or in fact
with any substance capable of being applied or affixed to it or which may attach
itself thereon.
The india rubber or its equivalent is employed as the ground work to fill in the
meshes and to receive substances or coatings which produces the ornamental effects
desired.
Where only one colour, such as that of gold, is desired the whole of the
ornamental effect for a given length of fabric can be effected at one operation so as
to produce the necessary result but where two or more colours are necessary in the
same given length the fabric will require to be operated upon separately for each
colour or tint so as to produce the desired effect.
In cases where the meshes forming the ground work of curtains, collarettes,
borders, edgings, insertions and the like and plain tulle or net, lace and muslins
are open, the open meshes can be readily charged or filled with the india rubber in
solution but any fabric having comparatively small meshes may have boles. made
in it by piercers such as will push the surrounding meshes closer together. In
the case of some fabrics, pieces may be punched out to form suitable openings into
which a suitable viscid body such as dissolved india rubber can be introduced for
the after application of powder to the surface or surfaces of the introduced body.

page_text: or material so as to produce the ornamentation or embellishment of said fabric as
before set forth.
I do not limit myself to the use of any particular apparatus for carrying my
invention into practice I have found it advantageous to employ pins of the same
or of varying diameters, the pins being so arranged as to conform to the sizes of
the openings or meshes and to the pattern in the fabric which I wish to ornament
or to the ornament effect I wish to produce. As an example.I arrange a number
of pins loosely in holes formed in a plate each pin having a hend so that it cannot
fall through. These pins (preferably) pass through and project from another or
guide plate to ensure their being properly held and having a vertical action. The 1
two plates with the pins are arranged over a bath or trough of any very thin
liquid, rubber over which the fabric is stretched or drawn tight between a give off
.roller and a skeleton take up frame to which an intermittent notion can be given
'as required in any suitable manner. After leaving the pins the fabric passes
through a heated vessel (preferably) or a heated plate and then under a powder
discharging reservoir this having motion while the fabric is at rest. Adjacent to
the reservoir 1 arrange a pressure plate beneath which is a table fitted under the
upper layer of an endless travelling belt and between this and the take up frame
I fit brushes.
T
The operation is as follows. The pin carrying plate has a downward motion so
that the points or free ends of the pins may pass through the meshes of the fabric
but as the pins are close together some of them may lodge on the threads of the
fabric and should this happen the guide plate should be moved so as to shift the
intercepted pins over the meshes into which they fall for their points or ends to
immerse themselves along with the others in the bath of liquid rubber. The pin
carrying plate is then raised to draw the pins up and out of the bath and up
through the meshies of the fabric the rubber or other solution. being rubbed and
dislodged from the pins by friction against the threads forming the sides or walls of
the meshes and attaching itself within the meshes. The fabric is then moved on a
stage and the part thus operated on enters the heated chamber to cause sufficient
evaporation of the solvent as to allow of the rublier or solution being reduced by
heat to the required comparatively solid and compact condition so as to form
The fabric as it leaves the heated
diaphragms in the meshes operated upon.
chamber passes over, without touching the endless belt of sheet rubber and under
without touching the suspended powder reservoir which has a motion imparted
to it. The mouth of the reservoir rests and slightly scrapes upon a fine screen,
through which the powder passes the powder is caused to fall in a shower upon
the fabric at the part where the liquid rubber has been applied and adheres to the
applied solution some of it falling through the open meshes on to the rubber belt
beneath.
The belt is set at an incline and at its higher level it passes over and in contact
with a table or perfectly flat slab, this having a press head or force above, which
can descend and exert a pressure on the fabric as to put the under surface of the
fabric into contact with the powder which is upon the belt so that the then nearly
dry rubber in the meshes may take up and be coated with it and at the same time
be slightly embedded into both surfaces. The pressure is relieved and the tension
of the fabric lifts it from the table so that the fabric may pass on another stage
and between a pair of revolving brushes which remove the superfluous powder
before the fabric is wound upon the skeleton frame.
The endless belt works in a vessel or. box and the powder on it not taken up by
the rubber in the meshes falls from it into the box and collected to be returned to
the reservoir when necessary.
By another method I attach pins to a board or plate with their smaller ends
projecting therefrom I then dip them into the india rubber in solution to the
desired depth so that they take up sufficient quantity of the viscid body as will fill
the meshes, the pins thus coated are then arranged "to register" over the fabric,
the fabric having been already suspended between two supports or in a frame.

page_text: The board or plate (with the pins) is depressed or forced downwards so that the.
pins enter into the meshes until the viscid body touches the walls thereof and
adheres to the fibres the board or plate is then lifted and the viscid body is wiped
or dislodged from the pins by the affinity of grip or adhesiveness which the
particles have towards each other the viscid body afterwards becoining more
compact and solid and flat as the solvent evaporates, the meshes thus charged
being completely filled up by the solution so introduced as to form as it wêre
diaphragms. A board or slab covered with metal or other material in powder is
now pushed under the suspended fabric and an upper board or slab provided with,
tubes is lowered on to the fabric. The tubes correspond in sizes and number to
the meshes that have been filled with the viscid body. Powder of the same or
of a different kind to that on the slab under the fabric is now put upon the top
slab and is brushed into the tubes so that it falls on to the upper surface of the
viscid body and adheres to it the under surface of the viscid body having been-
by the depression of the upper slab forced into contact with the powder thereon.
By this means both surfaces are coated with the powder or powders. The upper
slab is now raised and the lower slab is withdrawn to enable the fabric to be
moved onwards for another part to be similarly operated upon.
The portion of the fabric thus operated upon when moved or drawn forward
is subjected to slight pressure to press the powder into close contact or to embed
it into the surfaces of the now almost dry india rubber.
According to another method. The fabric having its meshes or openings
otherwise formed, filled or charged with india rubber solution or its equivalent
may be passed through a vessel in which metallic or other powder is agitated and
kept as it were floating as to deposit itself on both sides of the rubber as to adhere
thereto as the fabric is passed through said vessel, the fabric may then travel
through another vessel containing brushes set at an angle or otherwise to brush the
superfluous powder from the fibres of the fabric. The fabric is then passed
between rollers to press and solidify and make the rubber with its powdered
surface or surfaces perfectly flat and of the same thickness as the fabric itself.
The vessel in which the brushes are contained may be heated to expedite
evaporation of the solvent contained in the rubber or otherwise as found
convenient.
It will be understood that where various colours or various kinds or qualities of
embellishment or ornamentation is required the fabric. may be passed through
different operations to produce the same.
I have hitherto spoken of metal or other body in a state of powder, but leaf,
sheet, film or other thin yet solid metal or woven or other bodies may be rolled
pressed or otherwise put on to the surface of india rubber or its equivalent ground
work within the meshes or openings of the fabric.
While the several modifications of apparatus used as above mentioned may be
used respectively with advantage to produce the results indicated it is obvious that
other forms of apparatus may be employed to enable my improved process of
ornamenting fabrics to be carried into effect.
Having now described the nature of my said invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed I declare that I claim
First The improved process of ornamenting fabrics by filling or charging the
meshes or openings of net or openworked fabrics with a viscid body or
solution such as india rubber in solution substantially in the manner
and for the purposes herein before described
Secondly Coating or covering rubber solution or viscid body contained within
meshes openings or apertures of net, lace and like fabrics by a metal or
other material in powder or otherwise for the purpose of devicing
ornamenting or embellishing the same without increasing its thickness
or producing protuberances or excrescences beyond or outside the thickness
of the fabric itself as set forth
*

page_text: Thirdly The method or methods and mechanical means employed substantially as
herein before set forth for filling or charging meshes or openings of net,
lace and like fabrics with india rubber in solution making a ground
solid flat and smooth on both sides yet within the thickness of the fabric
all as hereinbefore described for the purpose set forth.
Fourthly The improved ornamented fabrics produced by the employment of
processes of ornamentation substantially as herein described
In witness whereof I the said Charles James Cox have hereunto set my hand
and seal this Sixth day of February in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and eighty four.