Improvements in and relating to Busts to be used in Measuring For and Trying On Garments.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Oct., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 19th July, 1895-Accepted, 23rd Oct., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Busts to be used in Measuring For
and Trying On Garments.
I, WILLIAM ADOLPHE ARFVIDSON, Manufacturer, and ANDRÉ LOUIS
ARFVIDSON, Architect, both of 21 Boulevard Poissonnière, Paris, in the
Republic of France, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
Our invention relates to busts to be used in measuring for and trying on
garments..
A bust made according to our said invention comprises a bust proper, adapted to
be inflated by means of a fluid under pressure, and a jacket of inexteusible fabric
which, being placed upon the bust before its inflation, limits the said inflation to its
proper dimensions.
This
The body of the bust is mounted upon a rod supported by a suitable foot.
bust body is made of pasteboard, thin stamped metal or any other suitably shaped
material. On this body, made to the smallest dimensions of the human body (bust)
and approximately stretched with fabric if necessary, is placed an envelope of
expansible indiarubber with double sides, and into which may be injected a fluid
(air or liquid) under pressure in any manner.
It is understood that the envelope in question has a length of pipe, or adjutage
with an inflating valve, for its connection with a pump or other apparatus for forcing
or compressing the fluid employed; this length of pipe passes into the interior of
the body of the bust and leaves either at the lower part or at the upper part of
the latter. Under these conditions the envelope may be inflated and as one of its
sides is applied to the body of the bust the other or outer part undergoes alone the
inflating action.
A neck is mounted with a swivel action and adapted to occupy any desired position.
We provide a movable ring enabling the bust to be lengthened at will and to be
adjusted in length to the waist of the person to be fitted. This ring is moved
by a hand wheel whereby the before-mentioned rod is turned upon which a nut
secured to the said ring moves upwards or downwards according to the direction of
the rotation.
Extensible plates are placed one in the upper part of the bust at the point of the
neck, and the other below at the point of the pelvis. These plates are provided
with books with which a jacket engages above and below. These books, used in
any number and suitably distributed on the surface of the bust, are attached
respectively to rods .held in guides fixed to the said plates. The said rods are
connected with metallic plates adapted to be developed like a fan in the plane of
the plates which are thus capable of being extended as is necessary for the various
sizes of jackets which may have to be placed on the bust.
Before proceeding with the inflation of the envelope the bust is clothed with an
inextensible jacket previously formed directly on the person to be fitted. As this
jacket is of comparatively cheap material any desired folds and cuts may be made
therein in order that it will adapt, itself exactly to the body without reference
either to the place of the seams or to the cut of the garment. It is in fact
designed to reproduce the shape of the body, and in order that this shape may
be absolute and exempt from all possible changes it is advisable to make use,
e of

page_text: a material rendered inextensible either during the manufacture or subsequently by
any desired means. For this purpose I may stitch or paste bands of fabric or strips
of suitable width diagonally to the warp and weft threads and by crossing them.
In practice backs and fronts made to the largest dimensions and corresponding to
the outlines of the final shapes may be prepared and their constitutive material
rendered inextensible in every direction.
The inextensible jacket thus obtained is placed upon the deflated bust buttoned
or hooked to a suitable point preferably upon the front, and attached at the top and
at the bottom to the said extensible plates. When this jacket has been put in its
place and suitably secured; it is sufficient to proceed with the inflation of the
envelope in order that the latter as it is inflated may stretch at all points the
jacket which covers it until the tension is complete and absolute. As this jacket
is inextensible and has been formed directly upon the body it follows that a bust
is obtained which truly represents the forms and dimensions of the person. to be
clothed.
It will be seen that the improved bust may be adapted, if not to all waists
indistinctly, at least to most of them. One bust for gentlemen and another for
ladies may be kept at disposal; there may even be kept a bust for a large waist
and another for a small waist of each kind. The distinction is caused by the jacket
which is peculiar to each individual. In any case it will be understood that when
the individual jacket has once been formed it is possible by its combination with
the inflated bust to take the precise'dimensions of the garments to be made, to fit
them on etc., without the person being present and without having to undergo the
inconveniences of the fitting.
A tailor may thus easily keep on the shelf the form or jacket of all his clients
and effect for them any desired orders without having to disturb them.
It should be understood that there is no limit as regards the details of construction,
the dimensions and materials to be employed for making the various constitutive
parts of the invention, and that we may coat the inextensible. jacket with india-
rubber so as to suppress if necessary the envelope or air chamber placed upon the
bust. In this latter case the jacket is doubled to form a sack and comprises the
adjatage with the inflating valve.
Dated this 23rd day of October 1894.
Improvements in, and relating to Busts to be used in Measuring For
and, Trying on Garments.
We, WILLIAM ADOLPHE AREVIDSON, Manufacturer, and ANDRÉ LOUIS
ARFVIDSON, Architect, both of 21 Boulevard. Poissonnière, Paris, in the Republic
of France, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and, ascertained in
and by the following statement:
Our invention relates to busts to be used in measuring for and trying on
garments.
A bust made according to our said invention comprises a bust proper, adapted to
be inflated by means of a fluid under pressure, and a jacket of inextensible fabric
which, being placed upon the bust before its inflation, limits the said inflation to
its proper dimensions.
1
In the accompanying drawing we have shown how our said invention may be
conveniently and advantageously carried into practice.

page_text: Figure 1 is a vertical section of the improved hust;
Figure 1 is a view similar to Figure 1, in which however the body of the bust.
is shown in elevation.
Figure 2 is an horizontal section on the line 1-2, of Figure 1.
Figure 3 is a top view of one of the extensible plates of the bust, and
Figure 4 shows the same plate at the part of its smallest diameter.
The body A of the bust is mounted upon a rod a supported by a suitable foot.
This bust body may be made of pasteboard, thin stamped metal or any other
suitably shaped material. On this body, made to the smallest dimensions of the
human body and appropriately covered with fabric if necessary, is placed an
envelope B of expansible indiarubber with double sides, and into which may be
injected a fluid (air or liquid) under pressure in any suitable manner.
It is understood that the envelope in question has a length of pipe x, or adjutage
with an inflating valve, for connecting it with a pump or other apparatus for
forcing or compressing the fluid employed; this length of pipe passes into the
interior of the body of the bust and leaves either at the lower part or at the upper
part of the latter. Under these conditions the envelope may be inflated, and as
one of its sides is applied to the body of the bust the other or outer part alone
undergoes the inflating action.
A neck D is mounted with a kind of swivel action and adapted to occupy any
desired position. The neck D is a simple wooden block, spherical at the bottom
aud cylindrical at the top. The block is provided with a cylindrical hole in the
line of its axis and the said hole has a cross piece D¹ provided with a forked
part D embracing another cross-piece D' firmly connected to the body of the bust.
The cylindrical part emerges from the body of the bust and the neck is adapted to
oscillate backwards and forwards around the pivot point formed by the fork and
the cross-piece D³ of the body, under the influence of the inflation of the pneumatic
outer coat attached to the upper extensible frame appertaining to the neck D.
The neck D can thus take up any inclination towards the back or the front
with regard to the body of the bust. Any other suitable form or arrangement of
neck may be used in lieu of that above described.
Upon
E is a movable ring allowing of the elongation of the figure or bust at will and
of adjusting the same, in length according to the length of the person to be
clothed. This ring possesses a full bottom which forms a kind of receptacle fixed
centrally upon a socket a' freely arranged upon a central rod a and simply resting
upon the nave of a hand wheel 6 firmly keyed or secured to the said rod a.
one part of its length the rod a is screw threaded and this portion traverses a
correspondingly screw-threaded part c in the cross bar y firmly fixed to the metal
part z which, at the base, terminates the body A and which is, so to say, encased
by the receptacle E. Moreover the rod a is guided by the cross bars u and u¹
arranged in the body A. Upon the socket a¹ is a binding screw v which permits
of firmly connecting, at a given moment, the movable ring E and the rod a.
Finally the rod a engages with a support P, and a pressure or binding screw vl
permits of securing the whole of the bust at the desired height.
Ordinarily the bust is lowered so that the hand wheel rests upon the upper part
of the support P. When this is the case and the said wheel b is acted upon, this
latter causes the rod to turn, thus compelling the body A-the rotary motion of
which is counteracted by taking hold of it with the hand-to rise with regard to
the receptacle or ring E. This regulation or displacement in height having once
been effected, the pressure or binding screw vis tightened so as to fix the ring with
regard to the body and the whole, lifted with regard to the foot or support P, is
fixed by the aid of the pressure or binding screw r¹.
Extensible plates F and F are placed one in the upper part of the bust at the
point of the neck, and the other below. These plates are provided with hooks d
with which a jacket C engages above and below. These hooks, used in any
number and suitably distributed on the surface of the bust, are attached
respectively to rods e held in guides ƒ fixed to the plates F and F¹. The said rods

page_text: are connected with metallic plates gadapted 'to be developed like a fan in the
plane of the aforesaid plates which are thus capable of being extended as is
necessary for the various sizes of jackets which may have to be placed on the
bust.
P is the foot upon which the apparatus is mounted... A set screw v¹ allows of
adjusting the apparatus at the desired height.
As
Before proceeding with the inflation of the envelope B the bust is clothed with
an inextensible jacket C previously formed directly on the person to be fitted.
this jacket is of comparatively cheap material any desired folds and cuts may be
made therein in order that it will adapt itself exactly to the body without reference
either to the place of the seams or to the cut of the garment. It is in fact designed
to reproduce the shape of the body, and in order that this shape may be absolute
and exempt from all possible changes it is advisable to make use of a material
rendered inextensible either during the manufacture or subsequently by any desired
means. For this purpose I may stitch or paste, diagonally to the warp and weft
threads and by crossing thein, bands or strips of fabric of suitable width. In
practice backs and fronts made to the largest dimensions and corresponding to the
outlines of the final shapes may be prepared and their constitutive material
rendered inextensible in every direction.
The inextensible jacket thus obtained is placed upon the deflated bust and
buttoned or hooked to a suitable point, preferably to the front and attached at the
top and at the bottom to the extensible plates F and F. When this jacket has
been put in its place and suitably secured it is sufficient to proceed with the
inflation of the envelope in order that the latter as it is inflated may stretch at
all points the jacket which covers it until the tension is complete and absolute.
this jacket is inextensible and has been formed directly upon the body it follows
that a bust is obtained which truly represents the forms and dimensions of the
person to be fitted.
As
It will be seen that the improved bust may be adapted, if not to all waists
indistinctly, at least to most of them. One bust may be kept for gentlemen and
another for ladies; one bust of each kind may even be kept for a large waist and
another for a small waist. The distinction is caused by the jacket which is peculiar
to each individual. In any case it will be understood that when the individual
jacket has once been formed it is possible by its combination with the inflated bust
to take the precise dimensions of the garments to be made, and to fit them on
without the person being present and without having to undergo the inconvenience
of fitting.
A tailor may thus easily keep on the shelf the forms or jackets of all his clients
and effect for them any desired orders without having to disturb them.
It should be understood that there is no limit as regards the details of construction,
the dimensions and materials to be employed for making the various constitutive
parts of our improved bust, and that we may coat the inextensible jacket with
india rubber so as to suppress if necessary the envelope or air chamber placed upon
the bust. In this latter instance the jacket is doubled to form a sack and comprises
the adjutage with the inflating valve."
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-
First. A pneumatic bust to be used in measuring for and trying on ladies' and
gentlemen's garments and characterized by the combination of a bust proper,
provided with a double impermeable envelope into which a fluid under pressure may
be injected for inflating the same, and a jacket of inextensible material, which,
having previously been formed on the body of the person to be fitted, is placed on
the deflated envelope; the subsequent inflation of this envelope causing the limited
development of the inextensible jacket, thereby effecting the true reproduction of
the body with all its forms, this reproduction or mould being utilized in lieu of the

page_text: person to be fitted, who has not then to be disturbed nor to bear the inconvenience
of fitting, substantially as hereinbefore specified.
Second. For obtaining a pneumatic bust the employment of a bust proper made
of the smallest dimension of a number of individuals to be fitted, and formed of a
framework mounted upon a foot and an envelope provided with double sides and
designed to be inflated, the said envelope having an adjutage and an inflating valve
or other similar device for the injection of the fluid (air or liquid) under pressure.
Third. For obtaining a pneumatic bust the employment at the top and botto:n,
of extensible plates for securing the inextensible jacket, and capable of being
developed like a fan to adapt themselves to any dimensions of the various jackets
which may be placed upon the bust and which have for their object to limit the
inflation of the pneumatic chamber.
Fourth. For obtaining a pneumatic bust the employment of a jacket of a material
which is inextensible or rendered inextensible for instance by stitching or pasting
bands or strips crossing each other diagonally upon any fabric, the said jacket being
formed with care upon the body of the person to be fitted, irrespective of either
the place of the final seams of the garment or the cut of the latter, and constituting
an individual or personal mould adapted to be placed upon the bust in order to be
developed to its limit by the subsequent inflation of the envelope of this bust.
Fifth. The employment of inextensible jackets provided with double sides and
adapted to be coated with indiarubber or rendered impermeable so as to serve as air
chambers, the said jackets being placed upon the bust proper reduced to the state
of a simple framework, substantially as hereinbefore specified.
Sixth. The arrangement of the extensible plates F and F¹ upon which
the inextensible jacket is hooked; the said plates being adapted to expand and to
contract according to the requirement of the said jacket, substantially as set forth.
Seventh. The arrangement of the ring E in combination with the body A upon
which the same is enabled to slide and which carries a nut C¹ in which a central
rod a with screw thread turns; this rod being secured to a band wheel b; the said
ring serving to regulate the height of the bust, substantially as set forth.
Eighth. The arrangement of the ring E, described in the preceding claim, with.
the extensible plate F₁, substantially as set forth.
Ninth. The arrangement of the swivel neck D in combination with the extensible.
plate F, upon which the jacket C is hooked, substantially as set forth.
Tenth. The combination of the body A with the ring E, the extensible plates F
and F, the central rod a, the hand wheel b, the air chamber B and the inextensible
jacket C substantially as described and illustrated in the drawing and for the
purpose set forth.
Dated this 19th day of July 1895.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicants.