In- PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Engineer and Patent Agent, for the Invention of "In-
PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."-A communication from abroad by
Elias Howe, junior, of Fairfield, Fairfield County, State of Connecticut,
United States of America.
Sealed the 7th December 1866, and dated the 7th July 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clark at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
7th July 1866.
I, WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer and Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows:-
This Invention consists in the arrangement of a disc with a many-cornered
groove formed by a series of wings turned out alternately in opposite directions
in combination with a clamping screw, spring, and flannel belt or other soft
substance on each side of the disc, and with the thread running from the spool
to the needle in such a manner that by the many-cornered groove the thread
is prevented from slipping on the disc, and the tension of the needle thread
can be regulated with the greatest facility and accuracy; it consists also in
the arrangement of slots extending to the various holes, eyes, or loops through
which the thread passes on its way from the spool to the eye of the needle in

page_text: such a manner that the thread can be introduced into the said holes, eyes, or
loops laterally instead of endways, and the operation of threading the machine
is materially facilitated; it consists further in the arrangement of a segmental
slot in the bottom end of the needle bar, the said slot being made to extend
nearly through to the socket intended to receive the needle in such a manner
that the thread by being introduced into the said slot can be made to extend
close down on the side of the needle from the needle bar to the eye of the said
needle, and the lateral strain exerted on the needle in sewing machines of the
ordinary construction is avoided; it consists further in making the head which
carries the needle bar adjustable in such a manner that the needle can be
always brought vertically in the proper position towards the shuttle, and the
position of the needle bar can be adjusted according to the varying thicknesses
of needles of different sizes; it consists also in the arrangement of a spool
holder with a flexible elastic back and flaring end pieces in combination with
a cavity in the shuttle, the ends of which are undercut or overhanging to
correspond to the inclination of the flaring end pieces of the spool holder in
such a manner that by means of the elastic back the spool can be sprung into
or removed from the spool holder with ease and facility, and furthermore the
spool holder when inserted into its cavity in the shuttle is retained by the
flaring end pieces catching under the overhanging ends of the said cavity,
and the operation of introducing and removing the spool holder from the shuttle
is rendered easy; it consists also in a tension spring with a slotted eye, said
spring being arranged so that the thread on passing from the eye in the shuttle
to the slotted eye in the spring is subjected to a certain pressure caused by the
spring pressing against the upper surface of the shuttle, and by increasing or
decreasing the tension of the said spring the tension of the shuttle thread
can be regulated, and furthermore by providing the tension spring with a
"slotted eye the introduction of the thread in the said eye is facilitated; it
consists, finally, in a compound gripping and advancing mechanism for
operating the feed wheel, the said mechanism consisting of a slotted dog, which
catches over the rim of the feed wheel, and is subjected to the action of a
spring and toggle lever, which extends from the hub of the feed lever in com-
bination with the said feed lever in such a manner that by moving the feed
lever in one direction the dog is caused to gripe and bend on the rim, and a
positive motion is imparted to the feed wheel, and by moving the feed lever in
the opposite direction the feed wheel is released and permitted to remain
stationary.
This Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawing, in which

page_text: Figure 1 represents a sectional side elevation of this Invention; Figure 2 is
a front elevation of the same; Figure 3 is a transverse section of the same,
taken in the plane indicated by the line, a, Figure 1, and looking in the
direction of the arrow opposite to that line. The remaining Figures are
details which will be referred to as the description progresses. Similar letters
of reference indicate corresponding parts.
A represents the table or cloth plate of a sewing machine, from which rises
the standard B, provided with an arm C, which supports the spool of the
needle thread, and with an arm D, to the outer end of which is attached the
head E, which forms the guide for the needle bar F. The connection between
the arm D and the head E instead of being rigid as usual is effected by a
pivot a, which extends from the head and fits into a socket 6 in the arın D,
and the said connection is rendered rigid by a set screw c, which bears on the
pivot a, and prevented from being pulled out by a safety screw d, which passes
through a lip e projecting from the under side of the arm D, and which is
tapped into the head E. By this arrangement the said head can also be
adjusted in and out, and the needle bar can be adjusted in a vertical plane
according to the size of needle which it carries, so as to bring the needle
always in the proper relation to the shuttle. The tension of the needle thread
is regulated by micans of a disc G with a many-cornered groove f; a front
elevation of this dise is shown in Figure 1, a transverse section in Figure 4,
and a plan or top view in Figure 5. The groove f is produced by making the
disc with a series of wings g, which are alternately turned in and out, as
shown particularly in Figure 4, and by these means a large number of corners
or corrugations are formed which retain the thread passing round the disc, and
prevent the same effectually from slipping in the groove. The disc G is fitted
on a screw stud h, on which it revolves freely, and it is subjected to the action
of a friction spring or spider i, which presses on a plate j of felt or other
suitable material that is situated between the disc G and the plate j, and the
pressure of the spider against the friction plate j is regulated by the nut k,
which is fitted on the end of the screw stud h. The thread as it is taken
from the spool S is passed in under the spring 1 (see Figures 4 and 5) situated
on the top of the standard which forms the bearing for the screw stud h, and
it (the thread) is then passed once round the disc G, and thence to the needle
bar and needle. On pulling the end of the thread the disc G is compelled to
revolve, the thread being prevented from slipping in the many-cornered groovef,
and consequently the tension of the needle thread depends entirely upon the
amount of pressure exerted by the friction plate j on the disc G, and by

page_text: turning the nut in one direction or in the other the tension of the needle
thread can be regulated with the greatest nicety. The object of the spring
which presses on the thread just before the same passes round the disc G is
to produce a slight tension on the thread to insure its proper action on the
disc. To the inner surface of the head E is secured an adjustable loop m,
detached views of which are shown in Figures 6 and 7; this loop is formed
of a strip of sheet steel, and it is provided with an eye o and a cylindrical
friction surface, as shown in the Drawing; and in order to introduce the
thread into the eye o with ease and facility a lateral slot p is male into the
shank of the loop m, so that the thread can be drawn or hooked in the eye
without being compelled to pass its end through the same.
From the loop m
the needle thread passes through a smooth rounded groove q near the upper
end of the needle bar; and in order to facilitate the introduction of the thread
into the said groove a slot is made to extend down into it from or near the
end of the needle bar. Instead of being compelled to pass the thread through
the groove end first it can now be hooked in, and much time is saved in
threading the machine. The needle bar F is made hollow throughout, except
on those parts which form bearings for pivots, so that the same combines
lightness with the required strength. In the bottom end of the needle bar is
made a segmental slot u, which extends nearly through to the socket intended
to receive the needle n, as shown particularly in Figure 8; this slot is
intended to admit the needle thread to such a position that the same is
conducted close down and parallel with the side of the needle, and the lateral
strain usually exerted on the needle by the thread extending from the circumi-
ference of the needle bar in an oblique direction to the eye of the needle is
avoided. In sewing machines of the ordinary construction the lateral strain
to which the needle is subjected from the above reason causes the said needle
to vibrate, and in sewing leather or other hard materials, particularly if the
needle is fine and the machine is run at a high speed, the needle is liable to
vibrate or break, or cause an irregular stitch; this difficulty is avoided by
running the thread close down to the shank of the needle, and a sewing
machine is obtained which can be run at a high speed, and in which a com-
paratively fine needle can be used for sewing leather or other hard materials
without danger of causing the needle to vibrate or break. The shuttle L is
represented in various views in Figures 1, 11, 12, and 13; it is provided with
a spool holder M, which is composed of an elastic back v, with two flaring
lugs or end pieces w, as shown in Figure 12; these end pieces or lugs form the
bearings for the axle of the spool, and the said axle is sprung into its sockets

page_text: by bending or springing the back v. The spool holder M fits in a cavity in
the shuttle with overhanging ends a', and in order to introduce it into this
cavity its ends must be sprung in. After the spool holder has been sprung
into the cavity a¹ its back is permitted to reassume its original position,
causing the lugs w to catch under the overhanging ends of the cavity, as
shown in Figure 12. By this arrangement the spool holder can be readily
put in or taken out of its cavity, and no separate fastening is required to hold
it in its place. The thread from the spool in the spool holder passes under a
bar connected to the back thereof, and out through an eye 6' in the top of the
shuttle, and it is then drawn through under a spring c', which is secured to
the shuttle and bears on its top with a pressure which can be increased or
decreased at will by screwing in or out the screw d¹; by this spring the
tension of the shuttle thread is regulated, and no additional tension is required
in the interior of the shuttle. The tension spring c¹ is provided with an
eye e', through which the thread passes, and a slot f¹ extends from the end of
the spring to the said eye, so that the thread can be conveniently drawn under
the said spring and into the said slot and eye, and that very little time is
required to thread the needle. The end of the spring j¹ is curved and made
to sink below the surface of the shuttle sufficient to prevent it from
entangling and unthreading whatever may be the size of the thread put
under it.
The feed mechanism is illustrated in Figures 14 and 15, where the former
Figure represents a transverse central section of the saine, and Figure 15 a
face view thereof. The feed wheel y' is constructed in the usual manner, and
it rotates freely on the stud h', which is firmly secured in the frame supporting
the cloth plate. This feed wheel is provided with a long hub , which forms
the bearing for the feed lever j¹, and from the boss or hub of the said feed
lever extends a toggle arm, which bears against the inner or tail end of the
slotted dog ; this dog straddles a rim m', which projects from the face or
outer surface of the feed wheel, and it is subjected to the action of a spring n',
which presses it forward and keeps the same in such a position that it moves
freely on the rim m³ in the direction of the arrow marked on it in Figure 15.
A coiled spring o¹, the inner end of which is retained by a slot in the stud h¹
while its outer end bears on the feed lever, has a tendency to cause the said
feed lever, together with the mechanism connected therewith, to move in the
direction of the arrow marked on the dog in Figure 15; but if the feed lever
is moved against the action of the spring n³ the toggle arm bears hard
against the tail of the dog, and the said dog is caused to bind on the rim m',

page_text: compelling the feed wheel to turn in the direction of the arrow marked
thereon in Figure 15. By this arrangement a simple and compact feed
mechanism is obtained, which acts without fail, and which is not liable to get
out of order.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 7th
January 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer and
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventh day of July. in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the thirtieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said William Clark, Her special licence that I, the said William
Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said William Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," a communication to me from abroad by Elias
Howe, junior, of Fairfield, Fairfield County, State of Connecticut, United
States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
William Clark, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Clark, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following state-
ment, reference being had to the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed, and to
the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-

page_text: This Invention consists in the arrangement of a disc with a many-cornered
groove formed by a series of wings turned out alternately in opposite direc-
tions in combination with a clamping screw, spring, and flannel belt, or other
soft substance on each side of the disc, and with the thread running from the
spool to the needle in such a manner that by the many-cornered groove the
thread is prevented from slipping on the disc, and the tension of the needle
thread can be regulated with the greatest facility and accuracy; it consists
also in the arrangement of slots extending to the various holes; eyes or loops
through which the thread passes on its way from the spool to the eye of the
needle in such a manner that the thread can be introduced into said holes,
eyes, or loops laterally instead of endways, and the operation of threading the
machine is materially facilitated; it consists further in the arrangement of
a segmental slot in the bottom end of the needle bar, said slot being made to
extend nearly through to the socket intended to receive the needle in such a
manner that the thread by being introduced into said slot can be made to
extend close down on the side of the needle from the needle bar to the eye of
said needle, and the lateral strain exerted on the needle in sewing machines
of the ordinary construction is avoided; it consists further in making the
head which carries the needle bar adjustable in such a manner that the needle
can be always brought vertically in the proper position towards the shuttle,
and the position of the needle bar can be adjusted according to the varying
thicknesses of needles of different size; it consists also in the arrangement of a
spool holder with a flexible elastic back and flaring end pieces in combination
with a cavity in the shuttle, the ends of which are undercut or overhanging to
correspond to the inclination of the flaring end pieces of the spool holder in
such a manner that by means of the elastic back the spool can be
or removed from the spool holder with ease and facility, and furthermore the
spool holder when inserted into its cavity in the shuttle is retained by the
flaring end pieces catching under the overhanging ends of said cavity, and
the operation of introducing and removing the spool holder from the shuttle
is rendered easy; it consists also in a tension spring with a slotted eye, said
spring being arranged so that the thread on passing from the eye in the
shuttle to the slotted eye in the spring is subjected to a certain pressure caused
by the spring pressing against the upper surface of the shuttle, and by
increasing or decreasing the tension of said spring the tension of the shuttlo
thread can be regulated, and furthermore by providing the tension spring
with a slotted eye the introduction of the thread in said eye is facilitated;
it consists, finally, in a compound gripping and advancing mechanism for
sprung
into

page_text: operating the feed wheel, said mechanism consisting of a slotted dog, which
catches over the rim of the feed wheel, and is subjected to the action of a
spring and toggle lever, which extends from the hub of the feed lever in com-
bination with said feed lever in such a manner that by moving the feed lever
in one direction the dog is caused to grip and bind on the rim, and a positive
motion is imparted to the feed wheel, and by moving the feed lever in the
opposite direction the feed wheel is released and permitted to remain
stationary.
The Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawing, in which
Figure 1 represents a sectional side elevation of this Invention; Figure 2 is
a front elevation of the same; Figure 3 is a transverse section of the same,
taken in the plane indicated by the line x, x, Figure 1, and looking in the
direction of the arrow opposite to that line. The remaining Figures are
details, which will be referred to as the description progresses. Similar letters
of reference indicate corresponding parts.
A represents the table or cloth plate of the sewing machine, from which
rises the standard B provided with an arm C, which supports the spool
of the needle thread and with an arm D, to the outer end of which is
attached the head E which forms the guide for the needle bar F. The
connection between the arm D and the head E instead of being rigid,
as usual, is effected by a pivot a, which extends from the head and fits into
a socket in the arm D, and said connection is rendered rigid by a set
screw c, which bears on the pivot a, and prevented from being pulled
out by a safety screw d which passes through a lip e projecting from the
under side of the arm D, and which is tapped into the head E. By this
arrangement said head can also be adjusted in and out, and the needle bar
can be adjusted in a vertical plane, according to the size of needle which it
carries, so as to bring the needle always in the proper relation to the shuttle.
The tension of the needle thread is regulated by means of a disc G with a
many-cornered groove f; a front elevation of this disc is shown in Figure 1,
a transverse section in Figure 4, and a plan or top view in Figure 5. The
groove fis produced by making the disc with a series of wings g which are
alternately turned in and out, as shown particularly in Figure 4, and by these
means a large number or corners or corrugations are formed which retain the
thread passing round the disc and prevent the same effectually from slipping
in the groove. The disc G is fitted on a screw stud h on which it revolves
freely, and it is subjected to the action of a friction spring or spider i which
presses on a plate ; of felt or other suitable material that is situated

page_text: between the disc G and plate j, and the pressure of the spider against the
friction plate is regulated by the nut k which is fitted on the end of the
screw stud h. The thread as it is taken from the spool S is passed in under
the spring (see Figures 4 and 5) situated on the top of the standard, which
forms the bearing for the screw stud h, and it (the thread) is then passed once
round the disc G and thence to the needle bar and needle. On pulling the
end of the thread the disc G is compelled to revolve, the thread being pre-
vented from slipping in the many-cornered groove f, and consequently the
tension of the needle thread depends entirely upon the amount of pressure
exerted by the friction plate j on the disc G; and by turning the nut & in one
direction or in the other the tension of the needle thread can be regulated
with the greatest nicety. The object of the spring which presses on the
thread just before the same passos round the dise G is to produce a slight
tension on the thread to insure its proper action on the disc. To the inner
surface of the head E is secured an adjustable loop m, detached views of
which are shown in Figures 6 and 7; this loop is formed of a strip of sheet
steel, and it is provided with an eye o and a cylindrical friction surface, as
shown in the Drawing; and in order to introduce the thread into the eye o
with case and facility a lateral slot p is made into the shank of the loop m, so
that the thread can be drawn or hooked in the eye without being compelled
to pass its end through the same. From the loop m the needle thread passes
through a smooth rounded groove q near the upper end of the needle bar, and
in order to facilitate the introduction of the thread into said groove a slot ris
made to extend down into it from or near the end of the needle bar. Instead
of being compelled to pass the thread through the groove, end first, it can now
be hooked in, and much time is saved in threading the machine. The needle.
bar F is made hollow throughout, except on those parts which form bearings
for pivots, so that the same combines lightness with the required strength.
In the bottom end of the needle bar is made a segmental slot u, which extends
nearly through to the socket intended to receive the needle n, as shown par-
ticularly in Figure 8; this slot is intended to admit the needle thread to
such a position that the same is conducted close down and parallel with the side
of the needle, and the lateral strain usually exerted on the needle by the
thread extending from the circumference of the needle bar in an oblique
direction to the eye of the needle is avoided. In sewing machines of the
ordinary construction the lateral strain to which the needle is subjected from
the above reason causes said needle to vibrate, and in sewing leather or other
hard materials, particularly if the needle is fine and the machine is run at a

page_text: bigh speed, the needle is liable to vibrate or break, or cause an irregular
stitch; this difficulty is avoided by running the thread close down to the
shank of the needle, and a sewing machine is obtained which can be run at a
high speed, and in which a comparatively fine needle can be used for sewing
leather or other hard materials without danger of causing the needle to vibrate
or break. The shuttle L is represented in various views in Figures 1, 11, 12, and
18; it is provided with a spool holder M which is composed of an elastic back
v with two flaring lugs or end pieces w, as shown in Figure 12; these end
pieces or lugs form the bearings for the axle of the spool, and said axle is
sprung into its sockets by bending or springing the back v. The spool holder
M fits in a cavity in the shuttle with overhanging ends a¹, and in order to
introduce it into this cavity its ends must be sprung in. After the spool holder
has been sprung into the cavity a¹ its back is permitted to reassume its original
position, causing the lugs w to catch under the overhanging ends of the cavity,
as shown in Figure 12. By this arrangement the spool holder can be readily
put in or taken out of its cavity, and no separate fastening is required to hold
it in its place. The thread from the spool in the spool holder passes under a
bar connected to the back thereof and out through an eye in the top of the
shuttle, and it is then drawn through under a spring c which is secured to
the shuttle and bears on its top with a pressure which can be increased or
decreased at will by screwing in or out the screw d¹; by this spring the
tension of the shuttle thread is regulated, and no additional tension is required
in the interior of the shuttle. The tension spring c is provided with an
eye e¹ through which the thread passes, and a slot f' extends from the end of
the spring to said eye, so that the thread can be conviently drawn under
said spring and into said slot and eye, and that very little time is required to
thread the needle. The end of the spring ¹ is curved and made to sink below
the surface of the shuttle sufficient to prevent it from entangling and
unthreading whatever may be the size of the thread put under it.
The feed mechanism is illustrated in Figures 14 and 15, where the former
Figure represents a transverse central section of the same, and Figure 15 a face
view thereof. The feed wheel g¹ is constructed in the usual manner, and it
rotates freely on the stud h¹, which is firmly secured in the frame supporting
the cloth plate; this feed wheel is provided with a long hub i which forms
the bearing for the feed lever j, and from the boss or hub of said feed lever
extends a toggle arm ¹ which bears against the inner or tail end of the slotted
dog this dog straddles a rim m' which projects from the face or outer
surface of the feed wheel, and it is subjected to the action of a spring which

page_text: presses it forward and keeps the same in such a position that it moves freely on
the rim m in the direction of the arrow marked on it in Figure 15. A coiled
spring o', the inner end of which is retained by a slot in the stud h¹ while
the outer end bears on the feed lever, has a tendency to cause said lever,
together with the mechanism connected therewith, to move in the direction
of the arrow marked on the dog in Figure 15; but if the feed lever is moved
against the action of the spring n¹ the toggle arm bears hard against the
tail of the dog, and said dog is caused to bind on the rim m³, compelling the
feed wheel to turn in the direction of the arrow marked thercon in Figure 15.
By this arrangement a simple and compact feed mechanism is obtained which
acts without fail, and which is not liable to get out of order.
Having described the nature of this Invention, and the manner of per-
forming the same, I declare that what I claim as, the Invention to be protected
by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
1st, the disc G with a many-cornered groove f in combination with a
suitable nut and spider i; constructed and operating substantially as and
for the purpose described.
2ndly, the friction spring in combination with the grooved disc G and
spool S, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
3rdly, making the head E which carries the needle bar F adjustable in
and out and back and forth by means substantially such as herein described,
or any other equivalent means which will produce the same effect, for the
purpose specified.
4thly, the arrangement of slots extending through the eyes or loops through
which the needle thread passes on its way from the spool to the eye of the
needle, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
5thly, the segmental slot u in the bottom end of the needle bar F, and
extending nearly through to the socket intended to receive the needle,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
purpose
6thly, the spool holder M with an elastic flexible back and flaring lugs w,
constructed and operating substantially as and for the
described.
7thly, the overhanging ends a¹ in the cavity of the shuttle L in combination
with the spool holder M, constructed and operating substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
.
8thly, the friction spring c¹ in combination with the shuttle and shuttle
thread, substantially as and for the purpose described.
9thly, the slotted dog l¹, spring n, and toggle arm k¹, in combination with

page_text: the rim m² of the feed wheel g' and with the feed lever j³, constructed and
operating substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clark, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Seventh day of January, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
Witness,
A. M. CLARK,
53, Chancery Lane,
London.
VLAIVAX.
(cm)