IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY OR APPARATUSQUI TO HAVE AE THEREON
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Jonathan Northrop, Samuel Tetley, and William
Harrison Tetley, of the Firm of Jonathan Northrop & Co., of Thornton,
near Bradford, in the County of York, Shawl Manufacturers, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR
Sealed the 19th July 1867, and dated the 22nd January 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Jonathan Northrop, Samuel
Tetley, and William Harrison Tetley, at the Office of the Commissioners
of Patents, with their Petition, on the 22nd January 1867.
We, JONATHAN NORTHROP, SAMUEL TETLEY, and WILLIAM HARRISON TETLEY,
of the Firm of Jonathan Northrop & Co., of Thornton, near Bradford, in
the County of York, Shawl Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR
FRINGING SHAWLS, MANTLES, OR OTHER FABRICS REQUIRING TO HAVE A FRINGE
THEREON," to be as follows:-
This Invention consists in a new combination and arrangement of mechanism
or apparatus for producing a fringe on shawls, mantles, or other fabrics
requiring to have a fringe thereon. For this purpose we may employ any

page_text: ordinary kind or construction of sewing or stitching machine, but we prefer
the class known as "lock stitch," and we apply thereto a guide or arm sus-
pended on a stud fixed into the frame which carries the ordinary needle slide,
and as near as convenient immediately over the said slide; in the other or
bottom end of this guide arm is a hole or eye sufficiently large for thick yarn
to pass easily through it; to this guide arm is also attached a rod, the other
end of which is formed to enter a cam groove formed in or on the ordinary
tappet plate which gives motion to the needle; or it may be a separate
tappet or cam capable of producing a to-and-fro motion of the said arm,
causing the eye to pass and repass across the path of the stitching or the point
of the needle, and thus when yarn suitable for forming a fringe is thread or
passed through the said eye and the edge of a shawl or other fabric placed in
the said path or line of stitching, the said yarn will be traversed alternately
on each side of the stitching thread, which will secure it on the edge of the
fabric. A lever is also hinged on the bed or table of the machine, one arm
of which carries a drag or pair of hooks which, by means of a rod to the other
arm of said lever connecting same with another lever operated by another
cam groove formed in the ordinary tappet plate, or in an additional one, the
'said drag is caused to move up to the needlo just after the stitch has been made
and the guide has placed the fringe yarn on the same side, when, on the with-
drawal of the needle the yarn is lifted into contact with the hooks, which, as
they are caused to recede drag or pull the yarn through the eye of the arm to
the required distance from the edge of the fabric, and forming a loop thereof
passes it betwixt the jaws of 'à pair of shears or cutters (which are operated
by another cam or tappet and levers provided for the purpose), whereby the
yarn is cut open, thus forming the edge of the fringe; meantime during the
dragging outward and before the cutting of the yarn another stitch has been
effected, securing the said yarn again to the shawl or fabric; also we apply a
rake or another hooked arm operated by a cam or tappet (provided for the
purpose) which before each cutting of the yarn passes beyond the drawn-out
loop of yarn, and on the receding of the said rake or hook it draws or 'carries
the portion of fringe thus formed out of the way of the next operation, and so
on; also by the application of another or additional needle for stitching we
are enabled to produce what is called "herring-bone" stitch in securing the
fringe on shawls or other fabrics if required.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Jonathan Northrop, Samuel Tetley, and William Harrison
Tetley, in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 22nd July 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JONATHAN
NORTHROP, SAMUEL TETLEY, and WILLIAM HARRISON TETLEY, of the Firm of
Jonathan Northrop and Co., of Thornton, near Bradford, in the County of
York, Shawl Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent bearing date the Twenty-second day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirtieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Jonathan Northrop, Samuel Tetley, and William Harrison Tetley, Her
special licence that we, the said Jonathan Northrop, Samuel Tetley, and
William Harrison Tetley, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as we, the said Jonathan Northrop, Samuel Tetley, and William
Harrison Tetley, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR FRINGING SHAWLS, MANTLES, OR OTHER
FABRICS REQUIRING TO HAVE A FRINGE THEREON," upon the condition (amongst
others) that we, the said Jonathan Northrop, Samuel Tetley, and William
Harrison Tetley, our executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under our, or their, or one of our or their hands,and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Jonathan Northrop, Samuel Tetley,
and William Harrison Tetley, do hereby declare.the nature of our said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement and accompanying
Sheet of Drawings (that is to say) :-
This Invention consists in a new combination and arrangement of mechanism
or apparatus for producing a fringe on shawls, mantles, or other fabrics
requiring to have a fringe thereon. For this purpose we may employ any

page_text: ordinary kind or construction of sewing or stitching machine, but we prefer
the class known as "lock stitch," and we apply thereto a guide or arm sus-
pended on a stud fixed into the frame which carries the ordinary needle slide,
and as near as convenient immediately over the said slide; in the other or
bottom end of this guide arm is a hole or eye sufficiently large for thick yarn
to pass easily through it; to this guide arm is also attached a rod, the other
end of which is formed to enter a cam groove formed in or on the ordinary
tappet plate which gives motion to the needle; or it may be a separate
tappet or cam capable of producing a to-and-fro motion of the said arm,
causing the eye to pass and re-pass across the path of the stitching or the point
of the needle, and thus when yarn suitable for forming a fringe is threaded or
passed through the said eye and the shawl or other fabric placed in the said
path or line of stitching the said yarn will be traversed alternately on each
side of the stitching thread, which will secure it on the edge of the fabric.
A lever is also hinged on the bed or table of the machine, one arm of which
carries a drag or pair of hooks which by means of a rod to the other arm
of said lever connecting same with another lever operated by another cam
groove formed in the ordinary tappet plate or in an additional one, the said
drag is caused to move up to the needle just after a stitch has been made,
(and when the guide has placed the fringe yarn on the same side) when on
the withdrawal of the needle the yarn is lifted into contact with the hooks,
which as they are caused to recede drag or pull the yarn through the eye of
the arm to the required distance from the edge of the shawl, and forming a
loop thereof passes it betwixt the jaws of a pair of shears or cutters which
are operated by another cam or tappet and levers provided for the purpose,
whereby the
yarn is cut open, thus forming the end of the fringe; meantime
during the drawing outward and before the cutting of the yarn another stitch
has been effected, securing the said yarn again to the shawl or fabric; also
we apply a rake or another hooked arm operated by a cam or tappet (provided
for the purpose) which before each cutting of the yarn passes beyond the
drawn-out loop of yarn, and on the receding of the said rake or hook it draws
or carries the portion of fringe thus formed out of the way of the next
operation, and so on; also by the application of another or additional needle
for stitching we are enabled to produce what is called the "herring-bone
stitch" in securing the fringe on shawls or other fabrics if required.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.

page_text: a side elevation of an ordinary sewing machine with our improvements applied
thereto; and Fig. 2, a plan of the same.
A is the guide arm, which is hinged to the frame of the machine imme-
diately over the stitching needle B, and a connecting rod C is attached to
this arm and to a cranked lever D, which is also hinged to the frame and is
operated by a cam groove E for producing the oscillatory motion required;
Fis a lever hinged on the table, one arm carrying the drag or pair of hooks G,
and to the other arm is attached a rod H connected to one arm of another
lever I, which is also hinged to the table, and having its opposite arm taking
into a cam groove J, by which reciprocatory motion is given to the drag;
K and K' are the shears or cutters, one. jaw being fixed to tho table and the
other being hinged to it, and having motion given for opening the shears by a
cam L actuating a slide rod M attached to the moveable jaw, and they are
closed by the action thereon of a spring N. An arm P is binged to the lever I
which is supported or held up by a spring Q and pressed down by a lever Q¹
which is hinged to the table, and receives motion from a cam R; to this arm
is attached a book S for removing the fringe as it is formed.
;
Fig. 3 is a detail view of the shears K, cam L, slide rod M, and spring N.
Fig. 4 is the drag G attached to the arm F and capable of adjustment thereon;
Fig. 5 is the hook S attached to the arın P, also capable of adjustment as
required; Fig. 6 is a side view of the cam E; and Fig. 7, a side view of the
cam R.
The operation of this machine is as follows, viz. :-The arm A is supplied
with suitable yarn from a reel or bobbin placed in any convenient position,
and a shawl or other article to be fringed is fed in the usual manner to the
stitching needle B, which is also to be supplied with suitable thread. When
the machine is put in motion the arm A oscillates and carries the fringe yarn
past or under the point of the needle B, which then descends, passing through
the shawl, the arm A then returns, passing the fringe yarn around or on the
other side of the needle B; the drag then comes forward, and seizing or
booking on the fringe yarn betwixt the needle B and the arm A recedes
a sufficient distance according to arrangement for the length which the
fringe is required to be made, forming a loop of the said yarn; the two
prongs of the drag holding the loop open passes it betwixt the jaws of the
shears K; the arm A then moving forward again carries its yarn beyond the
point of the needle B, and it is secured on the shawl by the said stitching
needle as before, and the loop is then cut open by the closing of the shears;
meanwhile the book S has been carried forward beyond the said loop of yarn
when held by the drag, it then recedes, removing that portion of fringe back

page_text: out of the way of the next loop which is to be formed and cut open as before,
and so on in succession, the oscillatory arm and the drag forming and placing
the fringe on the edge of the shawl or other article to be fringed, while the
stitching needle or needles (as two may be employed) secure it thereon, the
shears cut it open, and the rake removes each portion of the fringe as it is
formed out of the way of the next to be formed,
In witness whereof, I, the said Jonathan Northrop, for and on behalf
of myself and the said Samuel Tetley and William Harrison Tetley,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of July, One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
JONATHAN NORTHROP. (L.S.)
Signed, sealed, and delivered by the
within-named Jonathan Northrop,
in the presence of
W. TASKER,
Patent Agent,
Halifax & Bradford.