Improvements in the Manufacture of Piled Carpets.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 29th Apr., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 15th Jan., 1891-Accepted, 21st Feb., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Piled Carpets.
FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT 44 Comberton Road Kidderminster Commission
Agent do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention has reference to piled carpets which are manufactured of several
varieties in appearance and quality, but as regards binding the pile and construction
of stitch, the same general principles of weaving are applicable whether the pile
is formed over wires as in Brussels and tapestry velvets, or by the process of
tufting according to the Specification of Letters Patent granted to Sydney Pitt
No. 235 of the year 1877. A row of pile or tufts being the same result when
woven whichever way it may be produced.
It (the invention) has for its object to modify and improve an invention for which
Letters Patent were granted to Emil Steidel No. 15127 of the year 1885 for the
process of applying the pattern of the obverse to the reverse of the carpets, or in
other words causing the pattern to show on the back of the carpets this he does
by binding the pile round or below the lower or back weft, and by passing it over
one and under the other of two upper or surface wefts he binds it in very firmly.
This particular weave or stitch requires the loom to be transformed from a three
turn loom to a four turn loom, which involves great alterations and expense as well
as increasing the cost of production; but by my improvements I obtain the pattern
showing on the back of the carpet, binding the pile or tufts firmly in, combined
with the advantage of the capability of being woven in three turn looms.
There are several modifications of Steidel's weave or stitch which may be
employed for these purposes, and are applicable to either wire-motion or tufting
looms.
One modification being to bind the pile or tufts, round the back weft as above,
but changing the arrangement with the two surface wefts: instead of going over
and under I cause each row of pile or tufts to be placed between the said two
surface wefts, which may be bound in the same shed of the chain or binding warp,
and thus compressed closely together, they bind the pile firmly between them. Or
the two surface wefts bound in the same shed of the chain may be placed between
the rows of pile or tufts, retaining the pile or tufts going round the back weft.
Another which may be used would be to place each row of pile or tufts between
two wefts on the back of the fabric, being round one weft as above, but the other
weft being outside and against the pile; then by binding these two back wefts in
the same shed of the chain, the same effects will be produced. In this case only
one weft may be used upon the surface. These and similar modifications would
require but little expense to adapt 3 turn looms for weaving them, thus effecting a
saving in cost of altering as well as in production.
I obtain these results by adjustments of the working parts of the loom, and such
additions and alterations as may be necessary for operating the binding and other
warps, and for causing the other motions of the loom to work in harmony with the
same.
Dated this 28th day of April 1890.
FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Piled Carpets.
I, FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT, of 44, Comberton Road, Kidderminster, in the
County of Worcester, Commission Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement. :-
My invention has reference to piled carpets which are manufactured of several
varieties in appearance and quality but as regards binding the pile and construction
ef stitch the same general principles of weaving are applicable whether the pile is
To med over wires as in Brussels and tapestry velvets, or by the process of tufting
such for example as described in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to
Sydney Pitt No. 235 of the year 1877, a row of pile or tufts being the same when
woven whichever way it may be produced.
The invention has special reference to an invention for which Letters Patent
were granted to Emil Steidel No. 15127 of the year 1885 for a process of applying
the pattern of the obverse to the reverse of the carpets, or in other words causing
the pattern to show on the back of the carpets. This, according to Steidel's
invention, is effected by binding the pile round or below the lower or back weft,
and by passing it over one and under the other of two upper or surface wefts and
in this way the pile is bound in very firmly.
But this particular weave or stitch requires the loom to be transformed from a
three turn loom to a four turn loom, which involves great alterations and expense
as well as increasing the cost of production. Now according to my improvements
I cause the pattern to show on the back of the carpet, binding the pile or tufts
firmly in, and I effect this in a three turn loom and in some cases in a two turn
loom, as hereinafter described.
There are several modifications of Steidel's weave or stitch which may be
employed for these purposes and are applicable to either wire motion looms or
tufting looms.
One modification is to bind the pile or tufts round the lower or back weft as in
Steidel's but changing the arrangement with the two upper or surface wefts.
Instead of the pile going over and under I cause each row of pile or tufts to be
placed between the said two upper or surface wefts; these may be bound in the
same shed of the chain or binding warp and be thus compressed closely together so
that they bind the pile firmly between them.
Or the two upper or surface wefts bound in the same shed of chain may be placed
between the rows of pile or tufts, the pile or tufts going round the lower or back
weft.
Another modification is to place each row of pile or tufts between two wefts on
the back of the fabric, being round one weft as above but the other weft being
outside and against the pile; then by binding these two lower or back wefts in the
same shed of the chain the same effects will be produced. In this case only one
weft may be used upon the surface.
These and similar modifications would require but little expense to adapt three
turn looms or for some modifications two turn looms for weaving them, thus effecting
a saving in cost of altering as well as in production.
I obtain these results by adjustments of the working parts of the loom, and such
additions and alterations as may be necessary for operating the binding and other
warps and for causing the other motions of the loom to work in harmony with the
samme.
Before describing the details of the invention I need scarcely remark that piled
carpets woven over wires may as regards the face, have the pile either cut or left
uncut by using wires with or without knives on them; in either case this is quite
irrespective of the weave or stitch, which is a matter of the internal construction
and binding of the fabric. For example a stitch described in the Specification of

page_text: Letters Patent granted to me No. 6158 of 1882 and illustrated in Figure 3 of the
drawings forming part of that Specification and which was adapted for three turn
looms is primarily intended for making the uncut pile of three shot Brussels
rounder, but it at the same time binds the pile tighter and is equally applicable to
cut pile, whether produced in wire motion looms or in tufting looms such as for
instance Sydney Pitt's aforesaid.
Uncut pile carpets are also improved by being tighter bound, as well as cut pile
fabrics and a stitch accomplishing this object may in some cases be used
indifferently for either kind, but some stitches may do better for one kind and
some for the other, and any practical manufacturer would know how to select
them.
Tufting looms are only suitable for making cut pile surfaces, but they as well as
wire motion looms such as Brussels and tapestry looms can bind the pile in such a
manner as to cause the pattern to show itself on the back of the carpets and the
same stitches may in some cases be used in both kinds of loom and fabrics.
In carrying out my invention it will be convenient to arrange the modifications or
stitches in three divisions.
The first and second modifications described in the early part of this Specification
differ very little from each other and belong to the same class, and when the loom
is arranged for the one a slight change in adjustment will make it weave the other.
They are alike in having two upper or surface wefts and one lower or back weft
and I will class or place them with their similar modifications having the same
arrangement of wefts, in No. 1 division. The third modification or stitch described
in the early part of this Specification having two lower or back wefts, and one
upper or surface weft, is also a type of several modifications, and I will class or
place it with them in No. 2 division.
Then there are a few similar modifications which partake of the nature of both
the two former divisions, as like the first they have only one lower or back weft,
and like the second they have only one upper or surface weft. Part of these may
be woven in two turn looms such as are used in the manufacture of ordinary
Brussels and tapestry carpets and the like, and a further saving in time of weaving
be thereby effected. These modifications I will class or place in No. 3 division.
In adapting and altering the several two or three turn looms, it is necessary in
the first place to make them capable of depressing the pile warp or material to the
underside of the carpet in the process of weaving, so that it may be bound round
or below the lower or back wefts. This I do with the Jacquard, Brussels or
Wilton loom, either by combining with it Steidel's Jacquard with two lifting
boards, or a combination of the comber board and two hole boards in conjunction
with the Jacquard, as described in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to
Alexander Morton and James Morton No. 4777 of 1889 both of which accomplish
the above and same object.
In the case of the tapestry looms, I put an additional heddle or gear for the pile
warp to be operated separately from the dead warp, these two warps having
hitherto been worked together; any loom tuner would know how to carry this out.
This corresponds in the tapestry looms with using either Steidel's or Morton's
arrangement in Jacquard looms.
In the tufting looms the ordinary manner of manipulating the pile or tufts is
available for the purpose (viz. of depressing it to the underside of the carpet in the
process of weaving so that it may be bound round or below the lower wefts or in
fact round an upper weft if required) without any special addition but they will of
course need similar alterations or adjustments to those further required by the
former looms, as is hereinafter explained.
In applying Steidel's or Morton's arrangements to two or three turn Jacquard
looms; the accurate selection by the Jacquard needles may be interfered with,
because that process and the raising of the selected threads or
"lash"
may be
required to take place while the harness cords are perhaps vibrating from previous
movements or slackened in any way, say by the raising of the lower lifting board.

page_text: (Steidel's) or the comber board (Morton's) for the purpose of raising the dead
warp, which both correspond with and supersede the ordinary comber board for
this object. This can be remedied by weighting them more heavily and preferably
by placing additional weights or hinges on the Jacquard harness cords, between
the needles and the aforesaid lower lifting board or comber board; this may
require the board in either case to be fixed somewhat lower down, say by the space
taken up by the lingoes, and the length of cords above the lingoes to be sufficient
for the lift of the lash and also below the lingoes sufficient for the lift of the dead
warp. This would be advantageous in the manufacture of Brussels and Wilton
fabrics more particularly in combination with the double cylinder Jacquard for
weaving borders on the said fabrics as described in the Specification of Letters
Patent granted to Henry Fawcett, No. 8261 of the year 1889.
In case of adopting Steidel's arrangement one other alteration is required. The
lower lifting board being as above explained put further below the needles, the
effect and accuracy of the pattern cards in selecting the dead warp for it to raise
would be diminished, this is remedied by giving the board, after it has begun to
rise and caught the knots of the cords of the dead warp a slight movement so as to
bring the escape holes in position for allowing the lash cords to pass through
to the back of the carpet. This may be done by placing the grooves in which the
guides on the ends of the board slide (like the ordinary comber boards) at the
desired angle, arranging so that when the board is at its bottom position, the catch
slits are all under the knots, and then changing to the escape holes under the knots
when rising as described. The Jacquard harness cords will of course require
knotting suitably for this purpose. To save mentioning again both Steidel's and
Morton's arrangements I will hereinafter speak of raising or falling the dead warp,
which equally applies to both and also to tapestry and tufting looms.
The Brussels and tapestry two and three turn looms having been thus rendered
capable of depressing the pile material to the underside of the carpets are ready so
far for the further alterations and adjustments necessary for producing the
modifications or stitches as described by the formulæ hereinafter given and so are
the three turn tufting looms now in use and publicly known for weaving the stitch
that preceded my present improvements.
">
The principle upon which these formula are arranged is that of having the
warps and the pile or tufts material put into position for the weft or wefts to be
inserted, the means by which they are operated are well understood and it is not
necessary to describe them. When a warp is spoken of in these formulæ as
"raised
::
or "fallen
it means that those processes are just completed, this also
applies to the lash for the insertion of the wire, in the wire motion looms. The
terms "up " and "down" are also used and they mean a continuation or repetition
of the position as at the previous weft. On the other hand the insertion of the
wefts and the wire are put in the present tense and spoken of as "No. 1, 2 or 3
weft goes in" and "wire goes in." With regard to the weft it is the same thing
whether put in by shuttle or needle bar. The binding warp or chain may be as
usual arranged in halves in two heddles and when one half is up the other is down,
at the insertion of the weft or wefts. They change places once for each stitch
and this is spoken of as "chain reversed" also meaning just completed and then
the same position is continued or repeated and called chain same shed" until
reversed again for the next stitch and so on.
The lash is the pile material selected by the jacquard in the Brussels loom, or
the pile material operated by the heddle in the tapestry loom.
The term used for the tufting loom is "tufts put in position
completed for weft to go in.
which means just
The modifications or stitches are alike in the following particulars-There
would be dead warp, binding warp or chain and two or three wefts in cach; the
lash falling over the wire in wire motion looms would correspond with the pile
material being put into position by the tufting process, the pile being formed at
the same point in both cases, so that the same descriptions of the alterations and

page_text: adjustments for the various modifications or stitches would generally serve for each
kind of loom with the exceptions that with the tufting loom, all the references to
the lash and wire and with the wire motion looms all references to the tufts are
left out.
The order of weaving in which the formula are arranged is to put the wefts in
as they are numbered beginning with No. 1, then No. 2 followed by No. 3 (when.
there are three) for each stitch, and then beginning again with No. 1 and so on.
Though the result would of course be the same if either of the other wefts was
made the starting point.
When the wire goes in with an upper weft and the weaver is thereby prevented
secing the chain, it may be advisable when a lower weft is going in, to cause that
half of the chain which is up to be raised a little higher above the dead warp, so
that the chain will come up into the weaver's sight; this combination any loom
tuner would know how to carry out.
I call the surface wefts upper wefts and the back wefts lower wefts.
With these explanations any practical loom tuner will be able to alter and adjust
the looms for producing the various modifications of stitch and variations in
weaving in accordance with the formula which I will now proceed to give, the
modifications being illustrated in the annexed diagrams. In these diagrams a
represents the dead warp, the dotted lines the chain or foundation warp, and 6 the
pile.
No. 1 DIVISION CONSISTING OF Two UPPER WEFTS AND ONE LOWER
WEFT.
In Brussels and tapestry looms the lash and dead warp cams are to be up one.
weft and down two wefts as usual and in tufting looms the dead warp cam is to be.
the same as the formule show.
Lash down
Dead warp fallen
Chain same shed
No. 1 upper weft goes in
Modification No. 1.
Lash raised
Wire goes in
Dead warp down
Chain same shed
No. 2 upper weft goes in
Lash fallen over wire
Or tufts put in position
Dead warp raised
Chain reversed
No. 3 lower weft goes in.
The above may be varied in the weaving though practically producing the same
for No. 2 weft instead of for
result by merely changing the "chain reversed
::
::
for No. 1 weft
No. 3 weft. This produces modification No. 2 (see the annexed diagrams).
Another variation may be obtained by putting chain reversed
instead of for No. 3. This produces modification No. 3.
A similar modification No. 4 preferred for tapestry and tufting looms is as
under:
Lash down
Dead warp raised
Chain reversed
No. 1 lower weft goes in
Lash raised
Wire goes in
Dead warp fallen
Chain same shed
No. 2 upper weft goes in
Lash fallen over wire
Or tufts put in position
Dead warp down
Chain same shape
No. 3 upper weft
goes in.
The following two similar modifications are also improved methods of producing
the stitch as described in my former Specification No. 6158 of 1882, and adapting
it to tufting looms, for which they are preferred.
No. 5 (see Figure 3 of Specification No. 6158 of 1882).
it in nosition

page_text: Lash down
Dead warp raised
Chain reversed
No. 1 lower weft goes in
(Preferred for tapestry loom).
Lash raised
Wire goes in
Dead warp up
Chain same shed
No. 2 lower weft goes in
No. 3 DIVISION CONSISTING
Lash fallen over wire
Dead warp fallen
Chain same shed
No. 3 upper weft goes in.
OF ONE UPPER WEFT AND ONE LOWER
WEFT.
The five similar modifications Nos. 20, 21, 22, 23 and 24 can be woven on three
turn looms, and the two latter Nos. 23 and 24 may also be woven on two turn
looms.
The first three, viz. Nos. 20, 21 and 22 are preferred for Brussels or tapestry
looms and Nos. 23 and 24 may be woven on all the looms.
In these modifications when there are only two wefts woven on three turn looms
there is one turn without any weft, so that in speaking of warps or cams being up
or down the word "turn is used instead of "weft."
In Nos. 20, 21 and 22, the lash cam is to be up for one turn and down two turns.
The dead warp cams may be either up one turn and down two turns or the reverse
as happens to be most convenient. This gives another variation in weaving but
produces the same result.

page_text: these two (Nos. 23 and 24) be either up one turn and down two turns or the
reverse, so that whichever happens to be on the looms may be employed. When
the lash cam up two turns is used, there may be the option of making the wire to
go in at either turn, which may in some cases save altering it.
These facilities of using either sort of cams merely give a greater number of
variations in the weaving but produce the same results, and the advantage is to
utilize the cams which may happen to be on existing looms and save the trouble of
altering them.
Lash down
Dead warp fallen
Chain reversed
Lash raised
Wire goes in
Dead warp down
Chain same shed
No. 1 upper weft goes in
Lash fallen over wire
Or tufts put in position
Dead warp raised
Chain same shed
No. 2 lower weft goes in.

page_text: LASH CAM UP TWO TURNS, DOWN ONE TURN.
Lash raised
Wire goes in
Dead warp fallen
Chain reversed
DEAD WARP CAM UP ONE'
TURN, DOWN TWO TURNS.
Modification No. 23.
Lash up
Option wire goes in
Dead warp down
Chain same shed
No. 1 upper weft goes in
Lash fallen over wire
Or tufts put in position
Dead warp raised
Chain same shed
No. 2 lower weft goes in.

page_text: Dead warp fallen
Chain same shed
No. 1 upper weft goes in
Dead warp raised
Chain reversed
No. 2 lower weft goes in.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In the manufacture of piled carpets the various combinations hereinbefore set
forth whereby the various modifications or stitches with the variations in weaving
according to the formule in No. 1 division are respectively produced on three turn
or three shot looms, the pattern appearing on the back of the carpet.
2. In the manufacture of piled carpets, the various combinations hereinbefore set
forth whereby the various modifications or stitches with the variations in weaving
according to the formulæ in No. 2 division are respectively produced on three turn
or three shot looms, the pattern appearing on the back of the carpet.
3. In the manufacture of piled carpets the various combinations herein before set
forth whereby the various modifications or stitches with the variations in weaving
according to the formulæ in No. 3 division are respectively produced, some on three
turn or three shot looms and some on two turn or two shot looms, the pattern
appearing on the back of the carpet.
4. The manufacture of piled carpets as hereinbefore described.
Th
1921
"
1001
FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT.