Improvements in the Manufacture of Pearl Studs and Solitaires.
Year: 1896

page_text: rate of Application, 17th June, 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Pearl Studs and Solitaires.
I, THOMAS WALTER JONES, of Hylton Street, Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick Manufacturing Jeweller do hereby declare the nature of this invention to
be as follows:-
My invention consists of the improvements hereinafter described in the manufacture
of pearl studs and solitaires by which improved manufacture the studs and solitaires
are less liable to fracture than studs and solitaires manufactured in the ordinary
way; and further a great saving in pearl results by manufacturing the said studs
and solitaires according to my invention.
In order that my invention may be the better understood remark that pearl
studs and solitaires having immovable necks or stems are ordinarily made from a
solid piece of pearl by the process of turning, the said solid piece of pearl having
a diameter equal to or somewhat greater than the back disc of the stud or solitaire.
In this the ordinary method of manufacture the grain of the pearl crosses the axis of
the neck or stem in consequence of which on the application of slight strain in use
the pearl breaks across the neck. The principal object of my invention is to remedy
this defect.
I will describe my invention in connection with the making of a stud.
I employ in making a stud having a fixed or immovable neck or stem, preferably
three pieces of pearl a large flat disc for the back, a spherical or nearly spherical part,
made preferably from a short cylinder of pearl, for the head, and a rod or bar for the
neck or stem. I cut the rod or bar to be made into the neck or stem with the grain
of the pearl running in the direction of the length of the rod or bar the length of the
said rod or bar being greater than that of the neck or stem of the stud to be made.
The said rod or bar has a size suitable for the production of a neck or stem of the
desired diameter. The two ends of the neck or stem are fitted and secured in holes
made in the back disc and head respectively and the stud is thereby finished.
I do not limit myself to making the said studs of three pieces of pearl as the head
and neck or stein may be made in one piece.
In making a stud having a movable neck or stem, the parts constituting the back
are made in the ordinary way but the head and neck or stem are made separately.
The neck or stem is made from a piece of pearl in the way described with respect to
the neck or stem of the fixed stud excepting that it is provided with a flange at its
bottom end.
By making the necks or stems of studs from rods or bars in which the grain of the
pearl runs lengthwise the liability of the necks or stems of the studs to fracture is
reduced.
The application of my invention to the manufacture of solitaires differs in no
essential respect from its application to the manufacture of studs as hereinbefore
described.
Dated this Seventeenth day of June 1896.
W. T. WHITEMAN,
Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Pearl Studs and Solitaires..
I, THOMAS WALTER JONES, of Hylton Street, Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Manufacturing Jeweller, do hereby declare the nature of my invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention consists of the improvements hereinafter described in the manufacture
of pearl studs and solitaires, by which improved manufacture the studs and solitaires
are less liable to fracture than studs and solitaires manufactured in the ordinary way;
and further a great saving in pearl results by manufacturing the said studs and
solitaires according to my invention.
In order that my invention may be the better understood I remark that pearl
studs and solitaires having immovable necks or stems are ordinarily made from a
solid piece of pearl by the process of turning, the said solid piece of pearl having
a diameter equal to or somewhat greater than the back disc of the stud or solitaire.
In this the ordinary method of manufacture the grain of the pearl crosses the axis
of the neck or stem in consequence of which on the application of slight strain in
use the pearl breaks across the neck. The principal object of my invention is to
remedy this defect.
1 will describe my invention in connection with the making of a stud.
I employ in making a stud having a fixed or immovable neck or stem, preferably
three
pieces of pearl, a large flat disc for the back, a spherical or nearly spherical
part, made preferably from a short cylinder of pearl, for the head, and a rod or bar for
the neck or stein. I cut the rod or bar to be made into the neck or stem with the
grain of the pearl running in the direction of the length of the rod or bar the length
of the said rod or bar being greater than that of the neck or stem of the stud to be
made. The said rod or bar has a size suitable for the production of a neck or stem of
the desired diameter. The two ends of the neck or stem are fitted and secured in
holes made in the back disc and head respectively and the stud is thereby finished.
I do not limit myself to making the said studs of three pieces of pearl as the head
and neck or stem may be made in one piece.
In making a stud having a movable neck or stem, the parts constituting the back
are made in the ordinary way but the head and neck or stem are made separately.
The neck or stem is made from a piece of pearl in the way described with respect to
the neck or stem of the fixed stud excepting that it is provided with a flange at its
bottom end.
By making the necks or stems of studs from 1ods or bars in which the grain of the
pearl runs lengthwise the liability of the necks or stems of the studs to fracture is
reduced.
Figure 1 of the accompanying drawing represents a finished pearl collar stud with
a fixed neck or stem made according to my invention; Figure 2 represents the parts
of the said stud detached, the head part being in the rough or unturned state:
Figure 3 represents a piece of pearl from which I produce the stem of the stud, the
grain in the said piece Figure 3 running in the direction of the length of the said
piece of pearl:
Figures 4 and 5 represent respectively in elevation and section a collar stud with a
movable neck or stem made according to my invention.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in the several figures of the
drawing.
a (Figure 2) is the turned neck or stem made from a piece of pearl similar to that
represented in Figure 3 with the grain of the pearl running in the direction of the

page_text: length of the rod or bar of pearl and b is the short cylinder of pearl from which the
head of the stud is to be made; c is the base of the stud. The neck or stem a is
passed through the base c from the underside of the same and the cylindrical head
piece is pressed on the top of the stem the parts being secured together by
cement. The head piece b is finished by giving it a spherical figure by turning as
is represented in Figure 1. The head & may be made in one piece with the neck or
stem a where desired.
b
In making a stud with movable neck or stem I proceed in the way described
with respect to the stem a Figure 1 except that I make the base c in two parts
and provide a space between the said parts for the flange at the bottom of the
neck or stem to work in as will be seen by reference to the section Figure 5.
By making the necks or stems from rods or bars in which the grain of the pearl
runs in the direction of the length of the rod or bar the liability of the neck or
stem of the stud to fracture is reduced.
The application of my invention to the manufacture of solitaires differs in no
essential respect from its application to the manufacture of studs hereinbefore
described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my invention.
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that I claim as my
invention :-
The improvements in the manufacture of pearl studs and solitaires herein before
described and illustrated in the accompanying drawing, the said improvements
consisting in making the necks or stems of the said studs and solitaires from rods
or bars of pearl in which the grain runs in the direction of the length of the rod
or bar whether the heads be made separate or in one piece with the necks or stems
substantially as and for the purpose described.
Dated the Tenth day of March 1897.
THOMAS WALTER JONES