IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Chadwick, Managing Director, Thomas Sugden,
Foreman, and Charles Shaw, Foreman, all of the Firm Bradbury & Co.,
Limited, of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, Sewing Machine Manu-
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Chadwick, Thomas
Sugden, and Charles Shaw at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on
the 13th September 1880.
THOMAS CHADWICK, Managing Director, THOMAS SUGDEN, Foreman, and
CHARLES SHAW, Foreman, all of the Firm Bradbury & Co., Limited, of Oldham,
in the County of Lancaster, Sewing Machine Manufacturers. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN SEWING MACHINES."
Firstly. Our Invention relates to an improved combination and arrangement of
mechanism for sewing with a needle and shuttle.
The needle slide is actuated by a crank pin on the end of a shaft in the arm,
which crank pin works in a cam slot in a part secured to the needle slide, the ends
of which part are made to slide against ribs formed in the needle slide box, which
arrangement prevents the round needle slide used from turning.
The shaft in the arm is the driving shaft, and rotates by bevel wheels a vertical
shaft, the lower end of which has a cam and crank pin that give movement to the
feed motion and shuttle.
The cain acts upon one end of a rod, which also acts as a lever, the rod sliding
through and Leing guided by an adjustable part forming a fulcrum, the moving of
which to and fro by a suitable slide clamped by a screw regulates the length of the
stitch.
The end of the rod has two. bevels or inclines, and one incline rests upon an
adjustable bevel or incline piece secured to the plate of the machine, and the end
movement imparted to the rod by the cam causes the inclines to produce the up
and down movements for the feed bar, which is arranged to oscillate and slide to
and fro in the usual manner.

page_text: The end movements of the rod and the inclines give the lifting movement, and
the lateral movements of the rod the feeding movements to the feed bar.
In place of the feeding mechanism above described any other suitable feed motion
may be combined with the other mechanism forming the subject of this part of our
Invention.
The shuttle is arranged to make one complete rotation in a circular shuttle race
for each stitch, the axis of the shuttle driver rotating in a vertical position parallel
to the needle slide.
Rotary notion is imparted to the axis of the shuttle driver by the crank pin
on the lower end of the vertical driving shaft by means of a coupling rod jointed
to a crank pin on the axis of the shuttle driver, the coupling rod sliding through a
fulcrum pin which is arranged to swivel in the plate of the machine.
The action of this swivel coupling rod is such that a quick motion is given to the
driver while the shuttle is passing through the loop of the needle thread, and a
slower motion during the other portion of its rotation.
Secondly. Our Invention consists in a combination of vertical needle and feeding
mechanist with circular needle mechanism to produce what is known as the
Lancashire sewing machine stitch."
66
The straight needle and feed mechanism used in our improved combination is
part of that arrangement and combination for sewing with a needle and shuttle
known as "Wilson's" sewing machine, patented by A. M. Clark, No. 4465, dated
5th November,-1878, and No. 3494, dated 30th August, 1879, as communications
from "The Wilson Sewing Machine Company," except-that-the-needle_slide_is_
arranged so as not to turn as described-under-the-first.head of our Invention.
The axis of the circular needle has a serew thread formed upon it which is acted
upon by two edges forming a slot between them carried upon the end of a lever,
the oscillating up and down movements of which give the required to and fro rotary
movements to the curved needle.
The fulcrum of the lever for this purpose is on either a pin axis or is arranged in
adjustable centres, and the lever is connected by a rod with the swivel coupling
rod, giving the rotary motion to the feed cain shaft.
Thirdly. Our Invention consists in combining with parts of the "Wilson sewing
machine" above referred to, a rotary shuttle having the axis of the shuttle driver in
a vertical position parallel to the needle slide, as in the machine according to the
first part of our Invention.
A shaft is arranged parallel to the feed cam shaft of the Wilson machine, and is
driven by spur wheels from it, and this shaft drives the axis of the rotary shuttle
driver by bevel wheels.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said 'Thomas Chadwick, Thomas Sugden, and Charles Shaw in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 11th March 1881.
THOMAS CHADWICK, Managing Director, THOMAS SUGDEN, Foreman, and
CHARLES SHAW, Foreman, all of the Firm Bradbury & Co., Limited, of Oldham,
in the County of Lancaster, Sewing Machine Manufacturers. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN SEWING MACHINES."
,
Firstly. Our Invention relates to an improved combination and arrangement of
mechanism for sewing with a needle and shuttle.
The needle slide is actuated by a crank pin on the end of a shaft in the arm,
which crank pin works in a cam slot in a part secured to the needle slide, the ends
of which part are made to slide against ribs formed in the needle slide box, which
arrangement prevents the round needle slide used from turning.
The shaft in the arm is the driving shaft, and rotates by bovel wheels a vertical
shaft, the lower end of which has a cam and crank pin that give movement to the
feed motion and shuttle.
The cam acts upon one end of a rod, which also acts as a lever, the rod sliding
through, and being guided by an adjustable part forming a fulcrum, the moving
of which to and fro by a suitable slide clamped by a screw regulates the length of
the stitch.
The end of the rod has two bevels or inclines, and one incline rests upon an
adjustable bevel or incline piece secured to the plate of the machine, and the end
movement imparted to the rod by the cam causes the inclines to produce the up
and down movements for the feed bar, which is arranged to oscillate and slide to
and fro in the usual manner.
The end movements of the rod and the inclines give the lifting movement, and
the lateral movements of the rod give the feeding movements to the feed bar.
In place of the feeding mechanism above described any other suitable feed motion
may be combined with the other mechanism forming the subject of this part of our
Invention.
The shuttle is arranged to make one complete rotation in a circular shuttle raco
for each stitch, the axis of the shuttle driver rotating in a vertical position parallel
to the needle slide.
Rotary motion is imparted to the axis of the shuttle driver by the crank pin
on the lower end of the vertical driving shaft by means of a connecting or coupling
rod jointed to a crank pin on the axis of the shuttle driver, the coupling rod
sliding through a fulcrumi pin which is arranged to swivel in a projection from the
plate of the machine.
The action of this swivel.coupling rod is such that a quick motion is given to
the driver while the shuttle is passing through the loop of the needle thread, and
a slower motion during the other portion of its rotation.
Secondly. Our Invention consists in a combination of vertical needle and feeding
mechanisin with circular needle mechanism to produce what is known as the
"Lancashire sewing machine stitch."
The straight needle and feed mechanism used in our improved combination is
part of that arrangement and combination for sewing with a needle and shuttle,
known as "Wilson's " sewing machine, for which two Letters Fatent have been
granted to A. M. Clark, No. 4465, dated 5th November 1878, and No. 3494, dated
30th August 1879, as communications from "The Wilson Sewing Machine
Company," except that the needle slide is arranged so as not to turn, as described
under the first lead of our Invention.
The axis of the circular.needle has a screw thread formed upon it which is acted

page_text: upon by two edges, forming a slot between them, carried upon the end of a lever,
the oscillating up and down movements of which give the required to and fro
rotary movements to the curved needle.
The fulcrum of the lever for this purpose is on either a pin or shaft, or is arranged
in adjustable centres; and the lever is connected by a rod with the swivel coupling
rod giving the rotary motion to the feed cam shaft.
By a modification of our Invention motion is transmitted by a longitudinal shaft
and lever or levers instead of the said lever.
Thirdly. Our Invention consists in combining with parts of the "Wilson sewing
machine" above referred to a rotary shuttle having the axis of the shuttle driver
in a vertical position parallel to the needle slide, as in the machine, according to the
first part of our Invention, or with the axis of the shuttle at a right angle to the
needle slide bar.
To carry out these modifications a shaft is arranged parallel to the feed cain shaft
of the "Wilson machine," and is driven by spur wheels from it, and this shaft
drives the axis of the rotary shuttle driver by bevel wheels, or vice versa; the
shuttle driver shaft is driven and drives the cam shaft by spur wheels, or only one
shaft is used to rotate the shuttle driver, and the feed cains are placed upon this
shaft.
The latter-arrangement is preferred when the shaft forms the axis of the shuttle
driver when such axis is placed in a horizontal position.
One_modification of our Invention is illustrated by Figs. 1 to 11.
Fig. 1 is a side elevation; Fig. 2-is-a-front--sectional elevation; Fig. 3 is a plan
view of the under-side-of the- machine turned upwards, and Fig. 4 is a vertical-
longitudinal section through the plate of the machine when upside-down-;-Eig._5_
is a sectional elevation of the needle and presser slide box detached and looking at
the inside of the box, and Fig. G is a cross section of the same; Fig. 7 is a partial
plan of the top side of the plate of the machine, with one of the slide plates shown
partly withdrawn to show the shuttle in its race.
Figs. 8 and 9 are respectively edge and flat views, and Figs. 10 and 11
respectively sections taken edge and flat way of the shuttle.
a is the plate of the machine; a¹, the stand or arm; b', the fly wheel and driving
pulley on the shaft b in bearings as shown.
On the end of this shaft there is an ordinary disc 62 and crank pin to carry
a bowl which works in a cam slot in a cross piece c' secured upon the needle
slide c.
The ends of the cam piece c¹ on the needle slide work against ledges & on the
box d, which is secured to the head or arm by screws.
c, the
There is a pin c² that passes through the cam piece c¹ and needle slide
end of which pin works in a cam slot in a slack thread lever e having its fulcrum
on a screw e¹ in front of the box d.
The thread passes from the spool through an ordinary tension disc x, and through
the guide eye on the box and the eyes in the slack thread lever to the eye of the
needle, as shown by the peculiar dotted liue in Figs. 1 and 2. f is the cloth presser
slide.
b2 is a bevel toothed wheel on the first motion shaft that drives another wheel
on a vertical shaft g in bearings, as shown.
On the lower end of this shaft g there is a double cam and a crank pin, plate
and pin.
The double cam acts upon the end of a rod or lever h, one part of the cam acts
ou projections on the end of the lever h, which are at right angles to the projections
on the end of the lever for the other part of the cam, one cam thus giving end
movement and the other oscillating movement to the rod or lever.
The rod or lever h passes and can slide freely in a jaw piece on a pin h¹ that
can swivel freely in a part 2 forming a projection from a slide ³ that can move
endways in guides or slideways formed under the plate a, as shown, being secured
in the slideways by a screw passing through the pieco h*.

page_text: There is a screw knob h³ that passes through a slot in the plate a and screws into
the slide ³, and by this screw knob the slide can be moved and secured in any
required position to give a greater or less length of feed or stitch.
On the end of the rod or lever h there are two reversed inclines (sec Fig 4), one
comes against the underside of the feed bar i, the other against the upper face of a
bevel piece which is secured by a screw, and is made adjustable to give more or
less lift by means of a slot in the piece, as shown.
The end of the lever or rod
enters a notch in the feed bar i, which is arranged
to oscillate up and down and endways in the ordinary manner.
h' is a spring to bring the feed bar down, and end ways when moved by the cams
and lever or rod in the other direction.
The shuttle race is a circular box or cylindrical cavity with its axis vertical, in
which axis the shaft or axis of the shuttle driver j rotates. The shuttle driver is
formed by a disc j', which partly fills the bottom of the shuttle box and is of the
shape shown in Figs. 1 and 7.
Upon the disc the shuttle picker or drivor j³ is secured by two screws, and is of
the form shown in Figs. 1 and 7.
On the axis of the shuttle driver a crank arm or boss is secured by three
screws +, as shown.
Part of the crank arm or boss forms the journal of the axis of the shuttle driver,
and projects to the under side of the disc of the shuttle driver, as shown in Fig 1.
In the crank arın 3 there is a hole or bearing for a crank pin or a disc j³, which
has also a crank pin to fit the end of the connecting rod k. It will thus be
seen that the crank arm carries a small crank.
The connecting rod k passes and slides through a box k², which is formed on the
end of a pin that can swivel in a bush which is secured on the pin by a screw, and
this brush is split and is secured in a hole in a projection a* from the underside of
the plate a of the machine by a screw, the point of which enters a small cone holo
in the side of the bush.
The connecting rod k at its two ends is split open, as shown, and there are
screws so as to tighten the ends of the rods upon the crank pins and thus remove
play.
The connecting rod & from the centre of one crank pin to the other g¹ is
shorter than the distance between the centres of the shafts or axis j and g, and the
crank j thus allows one crank to drive the other with the shorter connecting rod,
which arrangement accelerates the rotative velocity of the shuttle driver during
that part of the movement which passes the shuttle through the loop of the needle
thread.
"
In place of the crank a pin may be secured in the end of the connecting rod k,
to work in a slot formed in the crank arm, the lengthway of the slot being in a
radial line from the centre of the shuttle driving shaft (j), as in the "
Wilson
sewing machine for driving the feeding cam shaft, but we prefer the crank, as less
liable to play.
The crank arm 3 has a slit in it so that by a screw the bearing may be
tightened upon the crank pin, and there is also a screw in the crank arm to lock
the screw for tightening the bearing.
is a spring secured by a screw to the underside of the plate a of the machine,
which has a pin at its end that passes through a hole in the plate and comes
against the slide plate a³, which is withdrawn to uncover the shuttle race, the object
being to put friction by means of the spring upon the slide cover plate a³, and
prevent it from working out.
The shuttle is formed out of a solid piece of metal to the shape shown. It has a
cavity and axis for the spool, and has a spring m secured by a screw m³ for giving
tension to the thread; one end of the spring has a hole that fits upon a pin m².
There is a hole for the thread to pass from the spool m³, then under the spring m
and round the pin m', and then pass out at a hole m' in the side of the shuttle to
the eye of the needle plate a³. me is an arm on a small axis in a hole in the

page_text: shuttle, around which axis there is a small helical spring to draw the arm towards
the spool and prevent it from getting out of the shuttle.
The arm can be drawn outwards in the direction of its axis and then turned to
one side to allow the spool to be removed or replaced; when the arm is turned back
a small centre point on the end of the arm enters a cone centre on the end of the
axis for the spool. In place of this arm a thin piece is or may be hinged to the
shuttle to pass through a slit in its side and come slightly above the inner flange of
the spool and thus retain it in the shuttle.
Those parts shown in the Drawing but not referred to are ordinary parts of
sewing machines, and will be readily understood by sewing machinists.
Another modification of our Invention for making the Lancashire sewing machine
stitch is illustrated by Fig. 12, which is a side sectional elevation, Fig. 13 a plan
view when looking at the underside of the plate of the machine, and Fig. 14 an end
sectional view; Fig. 15 illustrates an alternative mode of working the helix for the
circular needle.
The mode of giving motion to the needle slide, and of arranging the presser slide
is substantially the same as that herein before described in reference to Figs 1, 2, 5,
and 6, except that the arrangements for acting upon the straight needle thread are
not the same, but similar to those in ordinary use in the ordinary "Lancashire
sewing machine:":
The means of imparting motion to the mechanism below the plate of the machine.
-are-similar to those used in the before mentioned "Wilson sewing machine,"
_ namely, there is an excentric on the first-motion-shaft.b, which gives both end
and oscillating motion to a rod-or-lever 63, that has a fulcrum pin b with a bowl on
it, that works to and fro iu guides secured to the arm of ¯the-machine,-as-
shown.
-
The lower end of the lever or rod ba has a crank pin which fits a slot in a crank
secured on the end of a shaft in bearings under the plate a; this shaft has
a cam 2 upon its end to give the lifting movement to the feed slide lever i, and it
has also upon it a sliding cone cam ³ moved to and fro upon the shaft / to bring
a larger or smaller part of the cam against the bowl in the arm from the feed
slide lever i, and thus increase or decrease the length of the movement or stitch, by
means of a fork on the end of a rod 5, which is moved to and fro by a screw
knob is a spring to come between a shoulder on the exterior of the screw
knob and give friction to prevent it from moving too easily.
The feed lever slide i is arranged in the ordinary manner, except that the
springs to give the movements in one direction is secured at one end to the feed
bar and at the other end to the bracket for the circular needle.
To the fulcrum pin of the excentric rod or lever b another rod 6º is jointed,
which is also jointed with the ball end of a lever n having its axis or fulcrum
carried in adjustable conc centres n', as shown.
The other end of this lever n has a groove in it for a slotted plato n², which is
secured to the lever by screws.
The slot in the plate fits the flat sides of an axis p, which has a screw or helix
formed at about its middle part, so that when the slotted plate moves up and down
it gives rotary motion to and fro to the circular needle 2 at the upper end of the
axis, but after passing the screw part the slot in the plate holds the axis stationary
in position both when above and when below the screw part of the axis.
The lower end of the helix axis has a cone point and is received in a concave
adjustable screw centre; the upper end has a concave cavity and fits a conical
centre on the bracket på carrying the parts, which is secured to the underside of the
plate a, as shown.
The circular needle p¹ has a shank which fits a hole in the helix axis, and it is
adjusted and secured in the axis by a small screw.
y are tension discs for the thread supplied to the circular needle.
The line c*, Fig. 14, shows the position of the centre line of the straight
needle.

page_text: In the alternative method of communicating motion to the circular or curved
needle, illustrated by Fig. 15, a shaft n³ is placed in suitable bearings under the
plate a of the machine, and it has an arm upon it with a crank pin at one side in
it, to which the rod is connected, but the rod 6° is connected in this case with
the crank pin at the other side of the feed shaft h to that in which it is shown
connected with the lever h, Figs. 12 and 13.
On the front end of the shaft n³ there is an arm n' secured, which is jointed by
a pin n³ with a lever n, having its fulcrum on or jointed to a link no, which is
jointed to the underside of the plate a. The end of a lever n carries the slotted
plate for acting upon the helix shaft, which is not shown in Fig. 15, only the
circular needle p¹.
In place of the arrangement shown by Fig. 15, and according to another
modification, a shaft is or may be placed in bearings in about the position of the
joint of the lever n with the link no, and tho arin or lever n is secured on the end
of this shaft.
The other end of the shaft would in this case have an arm secured upon it
jointed with a rod similar to the rod be, Fig. 12, or this rod is or may be worked
directly by and from a separato excentric on the first motion shaft b.
The feed motion and other parts, with the two last described alternativo
modifications, are the same as those already described in reference to Figs. 12, 13,
and 14.
Fig. 16 illustrates a modification of our improvements in rotary shuttle sewing
machines.
In this arrangement the "Wilson" sewing machine feed mechanism and mode of
actuating it is used, and motion to drive the rotary shuttle axis j is conveyed from
the rotary feed cam shaft h, by spur toothed wheels *, to a horizontal shaft k,
which, by bevel toothed wheels, gives rotary motion to the axis of the shuttle
driver j.
But instead of the crank mechanism first driving the feed cam shaft / it is or
may be made by another modification of our Invention to drive the horizontal
shaft, for the rotary shuttle and the feed cam shaft is then driven by toothed
spur wheels h*, as illustrated.
Fig. 17 illustrates another modification according to our Invention, and also
according to the last modification described, except that only one rotary shaft
is used, which by bevel wheels rotates the shuttle driver axis j and the cam h³
for lifting and the cam for giving the feeding movement to the slide feeding
lover i.
The movement from the cone cam ³ is conveyed by a lever h* on a fulcrum
secured under the plate to the slide feeding lever i, as shown, and the cone feeding
cam is adjusted to and fro by a fork and similar arrangements to those hereinbefore
described, or by a lever or any other convenient arrangement.
Fig. 18 is a partial side elevation; Fig. 19, a partial back end elevation; and
Fig. 20, a partial front elevation illustrating another modification of our Invention
for working a rotary shuttle with the axis of the shuttle driver in a horizontal
position.
Fig. 21 is an enlarged side sectional view, and Fig. 22 an enlarged front
sectional view of the shuttle race and connected parts; and Fig. 23 is an edge,
and Fig. 24, a front view of the shuttle which is or may be employed.
The needle mechanism is the same as or similar to that herein before described in
reference to the first part of our Invention.
There is a shaft q in suitable bearings placed below the plate a of the machine.
This shaft is driven direct from the shaft b by an arrangement similar to that
herein before described in reference to Figs. 1, 2, and 3, except that the connecting
rod works at one end upon an excentric b* instead of a crank pin, and the
mechanism is arranged outside of the stand or arm.
The front end of the shaft q is within the shuttle race, and the driver or
picker q' and lid q³ for securing the shuttle in its place are similar to those used

page_text: in the "Wilson" sewing machine, except that the shuttle (instead of oscillating
to and fro, as in the "Wilson" machine) makes one complete rotation for each
stitch.
But the thread from the shuttle is arranged to pass out from a hole in the
side of the shuttle, as shown and described in reference to Figs. 7 to 11, and the
picker is secured to a partial disc formed on the end of the shaft (as in the
Wilson" machine) by screws with their heads flush with the surface of the picker,
so that there will be no projection or obstruction to catch upon the shuttle thread
when passing against the front face of the shuttle and picker.
The lid or cover q², for closing the shuttle race, is shown open in Figs. 20 and 22,
93 being the bulge to keep the shuttle close to the face when its tip is about to
enter the loop of the needle thread.
"
"
The shuttle used is or may be constructed as illustrated by Figs. 8 to 11, but
with the tip of the "Wilson' sewing machine shuttle, or it is or may be
constructed in all respects same as the Wilson" shuttle, except that the thread
must come from the shuttle at the side near the tip of the shuttle, as illustrated by
Figs. 8 to 11.
We have now particularly described the nature of our said Invention, and the
modes of carrying the same into effect, and claim as our Invention,
---Firstly. The combination and arrangement of needle and shuttle mechanism,
substantially as herein before described and illustrated by Figs. 1 to 11 of the
Drawings.
Secondly. The use of the guide-ribs-(d)-in-tho-needle and presser_slide_box_for
the-ends-of-the-cam-part. (c) to work against, substantially as herein before
described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Thirdly. The arrangement of rotary shuttles to rotate on a vertical axis, and so
driven that the velocity of rotation is greater while the shuttle is passing through
the loop of the needle thread than at other parts of its rotation, substantially as
herein before described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Fourthly. The combination and arrangement of crank or excentric and sliding
oscillating connecting rod for giving motion to rotary shuttles, substantially us
herein before described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Fifthly. The combinations and arrangements of mechanisin for driving rotary
shuttles and actuating the feeding mechanism, substantially as herein before described
in reference to Figs. 16 and 17.
Sixthly. The combination and arrangement of mechanisin for working rotary
shuttles and feeding mechanism, substantially as hereinbefore described in reference
to Figs. 18 to 24.
Seventhly. The arrangement of rotary shuttles with the axis of the shuttle
driver in a horizontal position, substantially as herein before described and illustrated
by Figs. 18 to 22.
Eighthly. The combination and arrangement of mechanism for sewing, substan-
Lially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by Figs. 12, 13, and 14, and also tho
alternative combinations, substantially as hereinbefore described in reference to
Fig. 15 of the Drawings.
In witness whereof, we, the said Thomas Chadwick, Thomas Sugden, and
Charles Shaw, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Ninth day of
March, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.