IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1859

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by William Clark at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 24th June
1859. A communication from abroad by Mr. James Snow Goodridge,
of 29, Boulevart St. Martin, Paris, Merchant.
I, WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer & Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows:-
The annexed Sheet of Drawings represents side and front views of the
machine on a half-size scale, as well as two detail views full-size, showing the
two different positions of the immediate instruments of operation at the time
of the formation of a stich. Each individual set of operating parts are
designated by a seperate letter and number following each of these letters,
which are used to indicate the different parts severally connected. The same
letters prefixed to the same numbers indicate the same parts in the different
Figures.
The vertical axis M² supported by the bearing M' recieves movement from
above, and transmits it to the other parts of the machine. B, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,
& 7, are the different parts of the frame which support the moving parts of
the machine, they are all of cast iron, and the whole are fixed on a wooden
table S. In order to show the moving parts clearly, several portions of the
frame are omitted in the Drawing. In this machine the thread is used up by
the needles, assisted by a very fine hook with a very short point, as represented

page_text: at Fig. 3, of its full size. In the following description I will term this part
(needle hook). The needle hook is fixed to a sliding carriage, and the whole
of the parts connected therewith are indicated in the Drawings by the letter C;
the excentric C' keyed on the vertical axis M2 acts on the roller C² fixed to
the horizontal cast-iron frame C³, under which are bolted a pair of bronze
slides C sliding on a double slide formed on the upper face of the two rails or
arms of the first portion of the frame B'. The frame is brought back by the
action of the spring C fixed to the stationary frame, & abutting against the
button C7 fixed to the frame C. Towards the front extremity of the frame is
fixed a vertical dovetail groove C³, in which slides a guide piece mounted on
the part C, which is returned to its vertical position by means of an adjusting
screw C; this part C is pierced at its front extremity with a hole to recieve
a stud C carrying a thin rod C¹³, which will be explained herein-after. The
hole has at its lower part a longitudinal groove, in which the tail of the needle
hook. C¹ lodges, in such manner that on the said stud being pressed by the
screw C", it bears upon the tail of this needle hook & thus fixes it. Further,
in order to sustain laterally the point of the needle hook, this last slides in a
groove made transversely in the metal bar T fixed to the frame. This needle
hook C thus mounted recieves by the combined action of the excentric C
and the spring C a rectilinear to-and-fro movement, and in each of its
oscillations it pierces the piece of material to be sewn, passes through it, and
seizes on the other side the thread which is presented to it by the part D",
which I will describe herein-after, and returns with the thread through tho
hole it has pierced, forming a loop; this loop as long as the needle hook pulls
it in two straight parts is held by the needle, but from the time that this
returns to the front, the thread being released, obeys its natural elasticity,
bends, and the loop is made; but to render this result more certain, I cause
the needle hook to pass through a piece of cloth or any other material serving
the purpose; this piece of cloth (which is not represented in the two elevations
to avoid confusion) occupies the position a, Figs. 1 and 2, at the time when
the point of the needle book is in front, but when withdrawing the needle, the
point comes in contact and draws it with it, which is caused by a spring piece
fixed to the bar T, and which is pushed backwards and forwards by the knob
fixed to the sliding carriage, the piece of cloth then takes the position a', from
.this position a' it returns to position a, the carriage also performing a similar
movement, the apex of the loop is pushed, and thus obliged to open, as
indicated in Fig. 2. The loop being well opened, and the needle hook resting
for a moment, a hook T fixed on the periphery of a wheel T', which is itself
mounted on the axis A³ (a portion only of this wheel is shown in the front

page_text: elevation), recieves a continuous rotary motion from the vertical axis M' by
the bevil gearing M³, A'; the hook T, as before mentioned, penetrates this
loop, and by means of its movement of rotation frees the end, and finishes by
entirely undoing the loop; but this liberated end being entirely out of the
cloth should not become free entirely, not only because in this state it would
be very difficult to catch, in order to continue the subsequent operation, but
also that it would be liable to break, and rendered useless for the further action
of the machine. To guard against these different inconveniences, two spring
blades K', K, are fixed in a position concentrically to the wheel T (indicated
only in the front view, and partially in the Figures 1 & 2,) fixed to the upper
end of a leg R, O, bolted to the framework. These two blades are furnished
on each of their faces with a binding or covering of cloth, or any other suitable
substance, which two surfaces do not press one against the other as long as the
knob V, which is fixed to the carriage, does not touch the blade K'.
The hook T in its rotating movement is in the plane of the covering of
cloth K in such way that the thread, when the loop is undone, is deposited on
this cloth covering, and held in that position by the roughness of its nap; then
when the carriage of the needle hook comes in front, the knob V pushes the
hinder blade K', against the blade K, which also gives to this pressure in
such way that the thread is turned in front; precisely at this moment the
thread should be taken for the purpose of being deposited on the rod C¹³, and
then by the needle hook in such way that the thread being obliged to slide to
a certain extent between the two cloths, which press themselves one against
the other, there is tension, and consequently definite tightening of the loop.
The two edges of the pieces to be sewn are held between the two jaws of
toothed pincers, similar to that which glove sewers make use of. This nipper
is actuated by a transferring movement, which carries successively each of the
teeth to the point of the hook. P", P" are two blades, bevil edged, and
toothed on their upper edges, and held together by a screw on the two cast-
iron jaws P & P', the first of which is fixed, and the second turning on the
axis P, fixed to the former. The jaw Ps is mounted on the two edges of the
cradle P', which is itself fixed to the part Ps, sliding ou the slide made in
the two cheeks of the frame P7. The two jaws carry two appendages
P&P, which are kept separate one from the other by a spring P₁, and
consequently holds the pincers shut. To this arrangement is fixed a toothed
rack P, actuated by the pinion R", mounted on the same axis as the ratchet
wheel Re, put in motion by the excentric R', acting on the arm of the
roller R, and thence on the crank arm R; the ratchet R, advancing the
wheel R, one tooth at each oscillation; R is a ratchet stop, which may be

page_text: raised by means of the counterbalance weighted lever R, worked by band,
and this being done, until the ratchet R is itself raised in its turn, permits of
the parts of the pincers by means of a counterbalance weight or spring
returning to its original position when the stitching of a piece is finished.
The nippers are fully represented in the side view, but in the other Figure
only a portion is shown round the needle hook. The front view contains
nothing but what may be understood by the side view. The means employed
to open the nippers require particular description. O¹ is the cord or strap
attached to a treadle; this cord passes over two pullies 0, & hooks on each
side of the two pullies O, of which the two upper ends are jointed to the two
extremities of an iron regulator O, held in position by the two springs 05, at
such a height that in its resting position it shall be level with the
appendage P, of the fixed machine. Each extremity of this regulator is held
in a double cap fixed to the frame B, which obliges it to move in a vertical
direction without any deviation. A second regulator O', similar to the first,
is held by the two bends O' of the levers 0, and when by the pressure exer-
cised on the treadle, the two levers come in contact with each other, this
regulator being raised, presses against the arm P, of the movable machine,
which forces back the spring P, and opens the nippers. It will thus be easily
seen by these means that, 1st, the nippers are opened without occasioning any
pressure on the slide, and without fear of rocking the nippers with their fittings;
2ndly, the nippers can be opened in any position of their course.
I will now proceed to describe the method in which the thread is presented
to the hook by means of a barb D". The axis A' carries two excentrics D
& D; the first, D¹, presses against the roller D, which raises the slide D³,
D' supporting by the upper part the oscillating axis D, which may also slide
longitudinally in its bearings. This latter movement is also determined by the
ascending movement by means of the part D³, which has to-and-fro move-
ment on the two inclined planes D', fixed to the cap De, bolted to the
frame B', B. Besides these two movements of the axis D8, the one vertical
and the other a backward and forward movement, a circular oscillating move-
ment is also imparted to it by means of the excentric D₁ acting against the
arm Ds. The balance D, fixed to the axis D, carries at its extremity the
barb D", which may also take all the positions necessary for its action. It
may be further remarked, that in the two elevations we have supposed the
parts in their position at the time when, 1st, the needle hook C has returned
in front to make a new stitch, and supposing that the nippers have already
advanced one tooth; 2ndly, the hook T' seizes the loop; 3rdly, the barb is
in its resting position, and ready to move and seize the thread. After this

page_text: time the hook T continues its course, and, when it has traversed about 90°,
the excentric D' commences to raise the apparatus supporting the barb; and
this movement is made parallel to the face P12 of the toothed nippers, by
means of the part D' sliding against the upper inclined plane D'; but during
the traverse of these 90° the carriage of the needle hook has arrived at its
extreme front position, when the latter is ready to take the thread, and this
last is also, by means of the knob V passing against the blades K & K',
deviated to the front, and within reach of the barb, as herein-before explained.
During this time the rod C has advanced and passed the end of the barb in
such way that this latter being first raised rests against the top of the rod
Cs, and then being passed from left to right by the effect of the movement
of the excentric D₁ passes above this rod, deposits the thread on it, and
continuing its course passes over the needle hook to its right, then descending
vertically, and, lastly, underneath from right to left, depositing it (the thread)
in front of the needle hook, which permits of the latter seizing it, and drawing
it through the hole it has pierced in the cloth when required to be with-
drawn; but it is necessary for this purpose that the point of the needle hook
should be turned towards the right and aslant, instead of being turned in its
vertical position. I would here remark, that the helicoidal form given to the
throat of the barb is necessary, so that when it seizes the thread, the latter
lodges in the helicoidal throat, and the two threads of the loop do not remain
in the same plane, as would be the case if the barb was simply cylindrical, and
also by this arrangement the thread cannot be deposited double on the rod
Cs, there only remaining the end holding to the cloth, which is resting on the
rod as well as before the point of the needle hook. It has been already stated,
that the removal of the thread by the barb forces the thread to slide to a
certain degree between the bindings or facings of cloth with which the two
blades K & K are furnished, and which at this moment are pressed one
against the other by the knob V, which results in a certain drawing of the
thread, which determines the definite tightening of the stitch. The use of
the rod C¹³, which has up to the present been scarcely spoken of, is very
important, since without its presence the thread, being taken near its point
attached to the cloth, would be forced in the formation of the loop to slido
under the point of the needle hook, which would not only force it, but the
point being very short would inevitably hook the thread, fray it, and easily
break it, but by means of this rod, which the thread envelopes in forming a
loop of a certain length between the point where the thread is attached to tho
cloth and the point where it is seized by the point of the needle hook, there is
an equal length to that which the loop should have when the carriage has

page_text: withdrawn to its extreme back position. It is thus easily seen, that by these
means the thread is drawn without being forced to slide under the point, and
is consequently not liable to become limp or weak, without which last arrange-
ment experience has proved that the use of the hook in sewing machines is
impraticable.