A Novel Embossed Fabric and the Process or Method of Making the same.
Year: 1892

page_text: COMPLETE QUEUIFICATION.
A Novel Embossed Fabric and the Process or Method of Making
the same.
I, WILLIAM JANSSEN, of Chemnitz Saxony, German Empire, Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention consists of a novel embossed fabric and the process or method of
making the same. The said fabric consists originally and mainly of a knitted web
or fabric having a backing of threads of silk, cotton, wool or other fibrous material
made on a circular, flat or other frame working with open needles.
This knitted web or fabric as it leaves the frame shows on the one side the
ordinary knitted meshes while on its other side it shows coarser threads of silk,
wool, cotton &c., bound or intersected by the finer threads of the knitted meshes,
and which coarser threads may be converted on a napping or nap raising machine
into a dense plush-like fleece. These goods are known in the market as
"Stockinet."
This well-known article forms a loose elastic web with one smooth side and one
rough side made of cheap material (for even if silk is used for the coarser threads
it may be waste silk only). The rough side is used for producing the embossed.
pattern as hereinafter described, and thus a fabric with embossed pattern is
manufactured at very little expense presenting a very fine imitation of costly silk
or plush fabric with embossed pattern and which may be used for wearing apparel,
decorative and other purposes.
The process of manufacture is as follows:--The web or fabric as it comes from
the knitting frame is first subjected to a dyeing process in pieces, or it is decolorized
by known means if a white product is desired. Or dyed yarn may be used for
producing a colored fabric or web on the frame.
Then the fabric is subjected to a nap raising process in an ordinary machine for
such purpose in order to convert the coarser threads on the rough side of the fabric
into a plush-like fleece. This fleece side is next smoothed down or made parallel
with the grain by means of brushes, and then this side is made shiny by hot pressing
or ironing.
For fastening or fixing the smoothed down and shiny surface of the fibres a
cementing solution preferably containing gelatine is now employed. The percentage
of gelatine dissolved in water to form the cementing solution may vary according
to the character of the product to be obtained, and a little practice will determine
this percentage. The solution is applied to the surface by means of sponges or
brushes.
In order to dry the cementing solution and to give at the same time brilliancy
to the surface the fabric is passed through hot plates or through heated rollers
and in order to prevent any of the gelatinous matter sticking to the surface of the
plates or rollers the fabric is covered on its prepared side with a fine fabric or
cloth during the operation of drying by heat.
The thus prepared side of the knitted fabric is now submitted to the action of an
ordinary embossing machine in order that it may be embossed with the desired
pattern or design. A highly effective imitation of plush or silk or brocade with
high relief or embossed pattern or design is thus obtained.
The original fabric has of course a certain elasticity which still exists in the
embossed fabric obtained by the process just described. If it is desired to make
the embossed fabric non-elastic this may be accomplished by fixing or cementing a
plain cotton cloth to the rear or non-decorated side, that is to say the side that

page_text: shows the knitted meshes, before subjecting the rough side of the fabric to the
action of the embossing machine.
The effect of the embossed side may be heightened by applying color or colors
by printing or otherwise to the embossed pattern or to the ground on the same
side.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is ;-
1. The process or method hereinbefore described of making an embossed fabrió
which consists (a) in producing a knitted fabric with thick intersecting or binding
threads of silk, wool, cotton or other fibrous material on the back of said knitted
fabric; (6) in converting these threads into a plush like fleece; (c) in smoothing
down this plush-like fleece; (d) in covering the surface of the fleece with a
cementing solution; (e) in drying this surface and glazing the same; and (f) in
producing an embossed pattern or design on the prepared side of the knitted fabric
by an embossing machine, all substantially as set forth.
2. As a new article of manufacture a knitted fabric or web with an embossed
pattern or design produced substantially as hereinbefore described.
Dated this 17th day of March 1892.
J. C. MEWBURN,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agent.