IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE Lwn Awan DER WARDINGETEENS OTHER SIMILAR PILED FABRICS
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Emmott, of the Vale Mills, Oldham, in the
County of Lancaster, Manufacturer, and Joseph Travis, of the same
Place, Salesman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
Lwn Awan DER WARDING"
Sealed the 27th June 1862, and dated the 18th January 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Emmott and
Joseph Travis at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
Petition, on the 18th January 1862.
We, THOMAS EMMOTT, of the Vale Mills, Oldham, in the County of Lan-
caster, Manufacturer, and JOSEPH TRAVIS, of the same Place, Salesman, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS, VELVETEENS, AND OTHER SIMILAR PILED FABRICS," to be
as follows:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of piled fabrics, the pile of which
is produced by the weft threads floating over the warp threads. The prin-
cipal feature of novelty consists in the application of coarse binding weft
threads to form the back of the fabric, and finer weft threads for the face; also
in the application of coarse warp threads to form the back of the fabric, and
finer ones to form the face.

page_text: Our Invention is particularly suitable in manufacturing silk or mixed silk
and cotton velvets or velveteens, as the binding wefts and warps may be of
cotton or other cheap material, while the finer wefts are of silk. We do not,
however, limit ourselves to any materials or combinations of materials of which
the warp and weft are composed.
In performing our Invention we prefer to employ a loom of the ordinary
construction, with a two shuttle drop box at one or both sides, and we regulate
the introduction of the coarse or binding weft to form the back after any
suitable number of shoots for the face have been introduced. We would
remark that the warps and wefts may be in the dyed or undyed state.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas Emmott and Joseph Travis in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 16th July 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, THOMAS
EMMOTT, of the Vale Mills, Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, Manu-
facturer, and JOSEPH TRAVIS, of the same Place, Salesman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-fifth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Thomas Emmott and Joseph Travis, Her special license that
we, the said Thomas. Emmott and Joseph Travis, our executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Thomas Emmott and
Joseph Travis, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time, and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OP VELVETS, VELVETEENS, AND OTHER SIMILAR PILED FABRICS," upon the.condition
(amongst others) that we, the said Thomas Emmott and Joseph Travis, our
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our, or their,
or one of our or their hands and. seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to. be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Thomas Emmett and Joseph
Travis, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement, that is to say):
This Invention relates to the manufacture of piled fabrics, the pile of which
is produced by the weft threads floating over the warp threads. The prin-
cipal feature of novelty consists in the application of coarse binding weft
threads to form the back of the fabric, and finer weft threads for the face;
also in the application of coarse warp threads to form the back of the fabric,
and finer ones to form the face.
Our Invention is particularly beneficial in manufacturing velvets or vel-
veteens with a silk face, or silk.combined with cotton or other materials. The
binding wefts and the warps may be of cotton or other cheap material. We
do not, however, limit ourselves to any materials or combinations of materials
of which the warp and weft are composed..
In performing our Invention we prefer to employ a loom of the ordinary
construction, with a two shuttle drop box at one or both sides; and we
regulate the introduction of the coarse or binding weft to form the back after
any suitable number of shoots for the face have been given. We would
remark that the warps and wefts may be in the dyed or undyed state.
And in order that our Invention may be fully understood and readily
carried into operation, we will proceed to describe the accompanying
Diagrams.
In Figure 1 we have shewn on an enlarged scale a section through a piece
of velvet woven according to our improvements. In this Diagram the warp
threads, which are all of the same count or thickness of yarn, are indicated by
the letters a, and the silk face weft threads marked bare interwoven with
and float over the warp threads; the cotton full binding weft, which is much
stronger and coarser than the face weft, is indicated by the dotted red
line d, while the full red line c-represents the half binding weft, which may
either be of the same sort of weft as the face, or like the full binding weft d.
The Diagram, Figure 1, represents the fabric uncut, and the Diagram,
Figure 2, represents the fabric when cut.
In weaving a fabric similar to that illustrated by the above Diagrams, we
employ a loom of the ordinary construction, with a two shuttle drop box at one
or both sides, one shuttle for the floating weft and one for the binding weft.
The loom is provided with six shafts or healds, and with a tappet plate or
other equivalent acting on a corresponding number of treadles. The mode of
drawing in the warp, and of introducing the weft, is indicated by the tie-up or

page_text: cross draft, Figure 3. On referring to this Diagram it will be seen that
(beginning at the left-hand side) the first four consecutive picks are given by
the shuttle containing the face weft, which floats over the warp threads; the
fifth pick is the half binder passing alternately under and over all the warp
threads; the succeeding four picks are again given by the shuttle containing
the face weft, and the tenth pick is the full binding weft, which completes the
round. After which the picks succeed each other in the same order.
Figure 4 represents a tie-up for producing a fabric precisely similar to that
above described; but in this instance there are eight shafts or healds required,
and they are arranged in the manner technically called a "straight gait."
In Figure 5 we have shewn a cross gait "tie-up" for producing a fabric
according to a modification of our Invention. In this case seven shafts or
healds and treadles are employed.
In Figure 6 a similar fabric may be produced by ten shafts and treadles
arranged in a straight gait.
We have to remark, in conclusion, that the main object of our Invention is
to economize material in manufacturing velvets, velveteens, or other similar
piled fabrics, as very nearly the whole of the silk weft or weft of other
expensive material for the face of the fabric, is brought up on the surface
when the races are cut, while the binding wefts for forming the back are entirely
or partially of cotton, linen, or other cheap material. Another advantage
resulting from the use of coarse binding weft threads is, that the loops of the
pile are more securely held than hitherto, and the fabrics are more durable, as
the coarse binding wefts protect the other weft threads. We wish it also to
be understood, that we do not intend to limit ourselves to the details given in
the accompanying Diagrams as the number of warp threads floated over by
the weft threads may be increased or diminished, and the details may be
otherwise varied.
For some descriptions of piled fabrics it is desirable to employ warp threads
of different thickness, while the weft is all of the same thickness; and in other
fabrics both the warp and the weft may be of different thicknesses. In using
the back warp threads of different thicknesses, the silk weft or pile is looped
round the finer face warp threads, and more securely bound and fastened in;
each loop being woven in enclosed squares represented by the coarse binding
back weft threads and the coarse back warp threads, thereby rendering the
fabric able to resist the friction while performing the cutting, scouring,
washing, and shearing operations, and when it its finished state.
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, and the manner of per-
forming the same, we declare that we claim the use and employment in the

page_text: manufacture of velvets, velveteens, and other similar piled fabrics, of warps
and wefts of different thicknesses, and of different materials, in the manner
and for the objects described.
In witness whereof, we, the said Thomas Emmott and Joseph Travis
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Fifteenth day of July,
in the year of Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.