IMPROVEMENTS IN BRACELETS, NECKLETS, AND CHAINS, AND IN their Mode of MANUFACTURE
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Auguste Lion, Jeweller, of the City of Paris; in the
"6
Republic of France, for the Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN BRACELETS,
NECKLETS, AND CHAINS, AND IN their Mode of MANUFACTURE.”
Sealed the 9th May 1879, and dated the 18th November 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Auguste Lion at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 18th November 1878.
AUGUSTE LION, Jeweller, of the City of Paris, in the Republic of France. "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN BRACELETS, NECKLETS, AND CHAINS, AND IN THEIR Mode of
MANUFACTURE."
My new and improved bracelets, necklets, and chains may be either cylindrical or
conical. In their manufacture I employ a strip of metal, either gold or silver, lined
with copper or other metal. This blade of metal may be more or less thin, or broad,
smooth, impressed, engraved, plain, or open worked. This blade is passed between
two rollers, either cylindrical or conically grooved, so as to impart an undulated or
tubular form to it, so as to produce from it a bracelet similar to that represented in
Fig. 1, and supplied with a fastening of some kind.
The undulations and tubular forms of this blade represent loops, which may so
remain, but it is important to unite these loops one after another to prevent defor-
mation of the trinket if drawn at one of its ends.
Fig. 2 is a side view of an undulated blade a, and Figs 3 and 4 show this blade
front and sideways, with the threads which serve to strengthen and unite the
loops b. c represents a metal thread forming zig zags from end to end of the blade
in turning round the loops b. Another thread of metal d, shown in dotted lines,
forins a zig zag opposite the former thread c.
In this condition the ends of the threads c, d, are soldered together with the ends
of the blade a to prevent its stretching. To prevent these threads c, d, from
leaving their position a mandril of variable form is passed through the loops 6 to
enlarge them, as shown, Fig. 5.

page_text: The undulations of the blade a may also be made by hand by turning them on
rods; they may be very close to one another, as shown, Fig. 6, which does not
prevent putting the threads c, d, in place.
Instead of using two threads c, d, a single one can suffice; in this case I place it
like that c, as shown, Fig. 3, from end to end of the blade a, and I make it
return to the point of departure, as shown by the dotted line d, to unite the two
ends of the thread.
Small holes may be pierced in the blade, which are hidden between the loops
when the blade is undulated, and pass a metal thread through these holes, or a small
chain from end to end of the bracelet to support it lengthwise.
These small holes may be placed on the edge of the blade, and united two and
two from end to end, as if sewn. The thread may also be replaced for connecting
the loops b, as shown in detail, Fig. 7, by means of a ring e, in which each loop is
passed before its enlargement.
In Figs. 8 and 8bis are represented a blade of undulated and tubular metal g, seen
in front and side view, forming loops h, connected together by small rivets i for
uniting the loops by the holes j, which correspond with them.
Figs. 9 and 9bis show a blade K, tubular shaped for forming loops ; it is pro-
vided with notches m, intended to receive the small rings n for connecting the next
loops one with the other.
Trinkets, bracelets, necklets, and chains can be made (which have the appearance
of those made with undulated blades or tubular shaped) by using small tube ends
placed one beside the other, and in which the threads are passed in a zig zag to
unite them.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Auguste Lion in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 13th May
1879.
AUGUSTE LION, Jeweller, of the City of Paris, in the Republic of France. "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN BRACELETS, NECKLETS, AND CHAINS, AND IN THEIR MODE of
MANUFACTURE."
The improved articles of jewelry the subject of the present Invention, such as
necklets, chains, bracelets, and so forth, are either cylindrical or conical. As
example, in manufacturing a necklet or bracelet I take a sheet or strip of metal,
such as gold, silver, gold lined, copper, or other metal. This blade or band of metal
may be more or less wide or more or less thick, plain, sunk, engraved, open worked
in a pattern of some kind. This blade, band, or sheet of metal is passed between
two rollers, either cylindrical or conical and fluted, which take one into the other,
which give it an undulated or tubular and corrugated form, forming loops for manu-
facturing a bracelet similar to that shown, Fig. 1, which may be fastened with a
clasp or some equivalent fastening to fix it on the arm or to withdraw it, or it may
be endless, by which I mean it is made without a fastening, the loops forming a
spring, the simple insertion or withdrawal of the hand expanding it, and when so
passed over the hand the springs contract and occupy their normal position. This
peculiarity in the construction of the bracelet admits of placing it on any part of
the arin, and by its elasticity it will retain any position given it, according to the
taste of the wearer.
b
The bracelet is obtained either by the use of a blade of metal a, Fig. 2, whose
outside edges are parallel, or by aid of a band or strip of metal whose edges are
undulated, as in Fig. 3, a', in which latter case the band of metal forms the loops
b, b; those b¹ form a beveling or rounded edge to facilitate the passage of the hand.
The loops 6 are then drawn together, as shown, Fig. 4, or they may be produced at
once, as represented in this Figure, by forming them on a shaft or mandrel having
the shape it is wished the loops to bear. The bracelet may be worn in this condi-
tion, but it is advisable to unite the loops b, 6', on either side, top and bottom, to
prevent their deformation should the loops be too strained or drawn at the ends of
the bracelet. For this purpose, it will be seen in Figs. 5 and 6, two wire threads
are passed in a zig zag form c, d, from end to end of the bracelet, one thread passing
in a contrary sense to the other between the loops b; one of these threads d is
shown in dotted lines and the other c plain, and when in situ these threads are
soldered together at their ends, and in uniting the loops b' this is repeated by the
threads c, d, Fig. 5; or instead of having two threads c, d, a single one may suffice
by directing it in zig zag fashion, as at c, Fig. 6, from one end of the blade to the
other between the loops b, & causing it to return like d to the point of departure
to connect there the two ends of this thread; or a single thread e may be used,
Fig. 7, which surrounds the first loop b, and then the second then repass a second
time the space separating two neighbouring loops, as shown by the arrows, and so
continuing to the end of the blade or band. One end of this thread is fixed to the
first loop of the undulated blade, and the other end to the last loop.
Fig. 8 represents a portion of a blade of metal a with undulations or tubings
forming conical loops 6 instead of parallel, like the preceding; these conical loops
conduce to make the necklets of the requisite shape. The loops may be united by
a thread f passing through small holes made on the longitudinal edge of the blade a.
This thread passes through the holes of two neighbouring loops, forming so to speak
a kind of stitch on one or both edges of the undulated blade a. I have also shown
in this same Figure by a dotted line g another mode of limiting the stretching of the
loops b, b', which consists of a small chain or of a metal thread whose ends are either
fixed to the end loops or whose ends are united. With the same object in view I
can introduce each loop 6, 61, in a ring, as in Fig. 9, to limit their development; or

page_text: in two neighbouring loops 6, 6¹, may be inserted the two shafts of a kind of double
pin, whose two points are united by an ornament of some sort, so as to form rings
uniting the loops two and two. Fig. 10 represents a necklet made in the same
manner as the bracelet, Fig. 1, furnished with a clasp or fastening of some descrip-
tion h, and whose loops b may be connected as well as those b¹ by the means
described above, or by other suitable means. Fig. 11 is an endless bracelet made
with an undulated blade i, one end of which before being so undulated is shown,
Fig. 12. This plate or strip of metal i is furnished with perforations in its centre
equidistant. When the blade or strip is undulated or tubular the centre of each of
the loops b, b', corresponds to the dotted lines k, so that the loops b provided with
the perforations j serve for the insertion of a spiral spring 7, which is continuous
like the bracelet, which may stretch at the same time as the loops b, b', for the
passage of the hand in the bracelet. This spring joins its elasticity to that of the
loops of the undulations of the strip ȧ to return the bracelet to its primitive position.
One or more of these springs can be used as desired, and they may be rendered
invisible. Fig. 13 represents loops b, b¹, made with an undulated plate or strip of
metal like that of Fig. 12; the assemblage of the loops is effected by means of small
plates m lodged between the loops b. Each plate m is provided with a slide
n,
in
which a headed shaft o fixed on a loop b¹ between two loops b passes.
These loops
can stretch in proportion corresponding with that of the length of the slides n, which
limit the drawing out of the bracelet or other article.
The
Fig. 14 represents an arrangement of plates m¹ larger than the undulated strip of
metal, which are furnished at their extremities with slides n¹ traversed with a headed
pin or shaft o¹, capable of sliding backwards and forwards in the slides of the neigh-
bouring plate with the same object as in the preceding Figure. This disposition
may be replaced by a chain of some kind, either visible or invisible, each link of
which would limit the maximum separation of two neighbouring loops. Fig. 15
represents a bracelet made with an undulated or tubular strip of metal p, shown on
an enlarged scale, Fig. 16; this strip p is first cut as shown, Fig. 17; the centre of
the loops b, b' and of the intermediate ones 611 is shown by the dotted lines q. When
the strip p is tubular and undulated the loops 6, 61, 6, are connected or brought
together one against the other as shown, Figs. 15 and 16; the loops 611 occupy a position
in the openings r made for this purpose on the strip p, Fig. 17. Fig. 18 represents a
bracelet executed with two undulated strips of metal, which are distinct, some loops
of which-b, b¹, are represented enlarged, Fig. 19. The first strip s, Fig. 20, is pro-
vided with openings t, which occupy the centre of the loops band 6' when the strip
is undulated in the directions shown in the Drawings by the dotted lines u.
other openings v are concealed, Fig. 19; in this case I take a strip x, shown by the
dotted line, and pass it successively in the openings t and v of the loops b, b', from
one end of the bracelet to the other to form with this blade a undulations making
intermediate loops ¹ visible between the loops b on one face of the article, and
between those b¹ on the other face. The employment of these two strips 8 and x
constitutes a mode of union of the loops which dispenses with the use of supple-
mentary organs for preventing their deformation, since the loops of one strip are
connected by the loops of the other. The strip x, which is undulated by its passage
in the openings t and v by the saine means as a ribbon, may be replaced by a tissue
or other chain of a flat or any other form. Figs. 21 and 22 show front and side view
a strip of metal y pierced with small holes z, undulated and tubular, whose loops b
& b' are connected two and two by small rivets c, whose shafts may have a little
play in the holes z to give elasticity and suppleness to the bracelet, necklet, or other
article. Figs. 23 and 24 are a front and side view of a strip of metal d, having
notches e which come one against the other when the loops b, b¹, are formed. These
notches serve to lodge small rings in f for connecting the loops b, b', to render them
solid, and with or without play. Fig. 25 is another blade or strip of metal d, having
tongue pieces g between two notches e, which tongues may be bent into the notches
when the loops are formed to suppress the rings f, Fig. 23.
Returning to Fig. 1, in Fig. 1× is an endless bracelet made in the same way as

page_text: Fig. 1, with a strip of undulated or tubular metal forming the loops b, b¹; those b
which occupy the external face of the bracelet are visible, and those b' occupying
the inner surface are invisible, or covered two and two by small metal plates A; one
of these plates A, shown in detail Fig. 1××, is provided at each end with two small
hooks or claws B, which are bent back in penetrating the ends of two neighbouring
loops b' to unite these loops two and two, and follow their movements, and prevent
their deformation. All these plates A have the advantage, which is important, for
producing inside the bracelet a smooth plain surface when the band is inserted for
fixing it on the arm. The plates may be used with the same object inside all the
bracelets or necklets before mentioned. In Fig. 26 two undulated plates or tubes
similar to those Figs. 21 and 23 are brought together, and united by a thread D
bent in a zig zag form or twisted spirally, or by the various arrangements men-
tioned for the union of the loops formed by the metal blades.
My bracelets, necklets, and chains may be ornamented in any desirable style, and
the ends of the loops may be open or closed with ornaments.
I consider as the important features of my Invention, 1st, my new bracelets,
chains, and necklets made with strips of metal either plain or having undulated or
tubular apertures for forming the loops throughout its length or in certain parts
only, with the option of leaving the loops free or in connecting them in various
ways, as already described; 2d., the manufacture of these articles with several
undulated or tubular plates or strips of metal for forming loops, the said plates being
furnished with apertures of various shapes appropriate to their union and the
varieties of models to be made; 3d., to leave the loops of the several articles men-
tioned visible outside or inside, that is to say, on the two surfaces or to cover the
loops inside, as shown Fig. 1*; 4th, the several methods of uniting the loops to
limit the stretching or elasticity or suppleness of the jewels, and to prevent the
deformation, as described and represented in the Drawing, reserving the option of
uniting the loops with the same object.
In witness whereof, I, the said Auguste Lion, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Tenth day of May, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and seventy-nine.
ATE. LION. (L.S.)