Improvements in Apparatus for Pressing, Shaping, and Curling Hats and Hat Brims.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 20th July, 1894
Complete Specification Left, 18th May, 1895-Accepted, 22nd June, 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Pressing, Shaping, and Curling
Hats and Hat Brims.
I GILES ATHERTON of The Virginia Mills, Higher Hillgate, Stockport, in the
County of Chester, Hatters' Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to the shaping and curling of hat brims and to the pressing,
shaping and curling of hats and hat brims. In the combined apparatus at present
used for shaping and curling hat brims, an india rubber bag or diaphragm is used,
contained, and suspended by a central bolt, in a so called "cupola" and subject to
fluid pressure, so that when the hat is placed in the frame, the brim resting upon
the curl plates or matrices, the expanded bag or diaphragm is pressed down on the
In conjunction
brim and shapes it to the exact curvature and curl of the matrices.
with the said bag or diaphragm it is customary to use brow blocks or filling pieces
which fit inside the hat and prevent the bag or diaphragm from entering the
interior of the hat. Brow blocks require to be provided for each size of hat, but
in' spite of their use the side of the bag is often forced by the pressure between
the blocks and the inner side of the hat, with the result that the bag is sometimes
nipped or cut and so damaged."
.7
1
"
Under my invention I am enabled to dispense with the use of brow blocks, and to
save their cost and also the time usually spent in removing; replacing and changing
them, and by an improved mode of stiffening and supporting the central part of the
rubber bag or diaphragm, I prevent accidents to the bag, so that as a result
I simplify and cheapen the parts of the apparatus and increase both its reliability
and utility.
According to my invention the bag or diaphragm is of the usual construction,
but to the central part of the upper side I apply a curved or dished metal plate
which extends over the curl plates or matrices of the frame beneath.
This dished plate is curved to a medium arch between the maximum and minimum
curves of the usual hat brims, and a thickness of rubber is interposed between the
bag and the plate. Consequently by the yielding of the rubber, the curve of the
plate can accommodate itself to all shapes of hat brims. Opposite to the curved
plate and on the other side of the bag or diaphragm, I place a washer plate, and
bolt or secure the two plates together, the thickness of the bag and-the-interposed
rubber packing being held and nipped between the two plates. The said washer
plate is of less size than the interior of the hat and serves for all sizes of hats so
that I use none of the usual brow blocks.
That portion of the bag or diaphragm which extends across the annular space
between the washer plate and the inside of the hat, cannot be forced down by the
pressure between the washer plate and 'the inside of the hat, because it is backed
and supported by the dished plate and packing, so that the bag is never nipped and
cut as sometimes happens in the existing arrangements.
Further, as I use no brow blocks, the necessity of having a supply of these to suit
various sizes is obviated and the time consumed in removing and changing these
blocks for different sizes of hats is saved.
Although i have described my invention as applicable to the combined
operations of shaping and curling I might apply it to the curling, operation
alone.

page_text: •
My invention extends also to the pressing of hats as well as the shaping and
curling of hat brims.
propose to press, shape and curl the hat at one operation instead of by two or
three operations as at present. In carrying out this part of my invention 1 combine
in one apparatus the chat press and mould and the brim shaping and curling
surfaces or matrices. Under my improvements the usual hat mould is fitted or
formed at its upper portion with 'the brim shaping and curling matrices or parts.
These might either be made in one piece with the hat mould or they might be
made in detachable halves or segments or parts which would lift away with the hat
when removed from the press.
A rubber pressure bag is employed and is forced by fluid pressure into the
interior of the hat so as to press it against the mterior of the mould and so form
and finish 'the body of 'thie hat. At the same time the overlapping upper part of
the bag, which is specially shaped to effect this result, lays over 'and curls aud
shapes, the brim which rests upon tlie curling and shaping parts or matrices
precisely as in the curling and shaping apparatus described in the first part of this
Specification. When the pressure has been released and the bag removed, if the
curling matrice is in one piece with the mould a slip stick or other means may be
employed to slip the curled brim of the hat from the matrice, but if these matrices
are separable from the mould, the hat may, be lifted out, bringing, with it the
separable parts which may then be removed from the brim curl. When made
separate from the mould, the curl matrices, may be in halves or segments, or the
side rolls or curls may be made separate and held loosely in position by dovetails
só as to come away easily with the hat brim. These are points of detail which do
not affect the spirit of my invention. I might even employ extraneous means to
effect the curling of the brim such for example as a bonnet of rubber or other
flexible material or a hinged bridle which would embrace the edge of the brim and
give the required curl and set... The said flexible bonnet or bridle could be easily
removed when its purpose had been effected.
It will of course be understood that, in an apparatus used for the foregoing triple
purpose of pressing, shaping and curling, the rubber bag or diaphragm has no
central plate or 'washer, as it requires to fill and accommodate itself to the shape of
the interior of the hat and mould.
Instore ..
Improvements in Apparatus for Pressing, Shaping, and Curling
Hats and Hat Brims.
I GILES ATHERTON of The Virginia Mills, Higher Hillgate, Stockport, in the
County of Chester, Hatters' Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is, to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement and accompanying
drawings:
My invention relates to the shaping and curling of hat brims and to the pressing,
shaping and curling of hats and hat brims.. Prior to my invention, in the [combined
apparatus used for shaping and curling hat brims, an india rubber bag or diaphragm
usually of a dished or saucer shape was used, contained and suspended or upheld
by a central bolt, in a so called "cupola" or pressure box and subject to fluid
pressure, so that when the hat, was placed in the inatrice base, the brim resting upon
the curl plates or matrices, the expanded bag or diaphragm was stretched and
pressed down on the brim so as to shape it to the curvature and curl of the matrices.

page_text: The bag or diaphragm was therefore subjected to considerable and fatiguing
-stretching and strain at each operation so that it was apt to be ruptured and to
spoil the goods. In conjunction with the said bag or diaphragm it was customary
to use brow blocks or filling pieces which fitted inside the hat and prevented the
bag or diaphragm from entering the interior of the hat. Brow blocks required to
be provided for each size of hat, but in spite of their use the material of the bag
was often forced by the pressure between the brow blocks and the inner band
of the hat, with the result that the bag was sometimes nipped or cut and so
damaged.
Under my invention I am enabled to dispense with the use of brow blocks, and
to save their cost and also the time usually spent in removing, replacing and
changing them, and by an improved shape or configuration of the bag or diaphragm
combined with a novel mode of stiffening and supporting the central part of the
rubber bag or diaphragm, I prevent accidents to the bag so that as a result
I simplify and cheapen the parts of the apparatus and increase its reliability,
utility and efficiency.
The annexed sheet of drawings will render my invention more fully understood.
Fig. 1 is a sectional view of the usual hydraulic stiff hat curling machine or press
to which my improved diaphragm and other parts are shown applied. The section
is taken in the direction of the greatest length of a hat. The parts are shown as
they appear when the cupola or hydraulic pressure box is raised and the machine is
not in the act of pressing.
Fig. 2 is a cross sectional view at right angles to Fig. 1 in which the cupola a is
shown lowered and the hydraulic pressure admitted into the box and behind the
diaphragm so as to press and curl the hat.
Fig. 3 is a side view of my improved hat matrice base fitted with curling
matrices or curl plates, which are made to be easily detachable from the base and
from the hat brim.
Fig. 4 is an end view of the matrice base and matrices.
Fig. 5 is a plan view of the same.
Fig. 6 is a cross section of the base and curl plates.
:
Fig. 7 refers to my improved means for pressing shaping and curling the hat and
hat brims at one operation.
According to my invention the bag or diaphragm 6 instead of being of the usual
saucer shape upheld by a central bolt as heretofore, is made of such a shape that it
is self supporting in the cupola (see Fig. 1) and is sufficiently slack to adapt itself
to the curl of the matrices without the excessive strain and stretching which the
former diaphragm had to undergo in performing its duties. The improved
formation of the diaphragm 6 is most perceptible from the sectional view in Fig. 1
which represents the diaphragm as it appears when not under pressure. The
'S" shaped contour of the sides bears up the main portion of the diaphragm and
also gives it sufficient slack to roll or lie round the curl of the matrices when
subjected to pressure, without being so much stretched or distended as was the
case with the old forin of diaphragm. This self supporting quality of my improved
diaphragm enables ine to dispense with the old central upholding bolt.
66
To the central part of the diaphragm and preferably on the upper side I apply
a curved or dished metal plate c which extends above the curl plates or matrices of
the frame beneath..
This dished plate c is shaped or bent to a medium curve between the maximum
and minimum curves of the usual type of hat brims, and a thickness of rubber d is
interposed between the bag and the plate. Consequently by the yielding of the
rubber thickness d, the curve of the plate c can accommodate itself to all general
shapes of hat brims. Opposite to the curved plate e and on the other side of the
bag or diaphragm b, I place a washer plate and bolt or secure the two plates
together as indicated in the drawings, the thickness of the bag 6 and the
interposed rubber packing d being held and nipped between the two plates e
and c.
The said washer plate e is of less size thau the interior of the hat x.

page_text: .. Instead of being on the upper side of the diaphragm b as described and shown,
the dished plate c might be on the lower side of the diaphragm ; .and on either side
it might be secured either by the bolts and washer plate as.'described or it might
be attached to the diaphragm by a covering or envelope of rubber or other
material cemented to the diaphragm and containing the dished plate.. In such a
case no holding bolts would be required.
When the cupola has been brought down over the hat and matrices and the
hydraulic pressure admitted as in Fig. 2, 'the pressure compels the flexible
diaphragm a to lie closely down upon and against, the hat brim. and curl, and press
it to the shape, curve and curl fixed by the matrices, but. without unduly distending
the material of the diaphragm.
That portion of the bag or diaphragm b which extends across the annular space
between the washer plate e and the inside of the hat cannot be easily forced down
by the hydraulic pressure, 'between the washer plate e and 'the inside of the hat a
because it is backed and supported by the dished plate C and packing, so that the
bag is not nipped and cut as sometimes happens in the old. or existing apparatus.
The described improved arrangements enable me to dispense with brow-blocks, so
that the necessity of having a supply of these to suit various sizes is obviated and
the time consumed in, removing and changing these blocks for different sizes of! hats
is saved.
•
In order to prevent any possibility of any portion of the bag or diaphragm b
being forced between the plate .e and the inside of the 'hat, and also to 'finish
the brim of the hat, and preserve the sharpness of the inner edges I might
provide presser or protecting plates such as at A (see Fig. 8) the said 'presser
or protecting plates consisting of dished metal plates conforming to the curve
of the brim and made of sufficient strength to resist bending pressure at the
edges. Such a presser plate is laid upon the "hat brim when the bog and
cupola are in the position shown in Fig. 1.
.
In the protecting plate A shown aud described there is a hole in 'the middle
of the plate to admit the washer plate e but when no such washer plate e or
other projection exists on the lower side of the diaphragm, the plate A need not
be cut out in the centre.
When the cupola is brought down and hydraulic pressure is admitted to the
bag in the usual manner, i.e. when the parts are in the 'position shown in 'Fig. 2,
the plate. A preserves the sharpness of the inner edge of the hat and also gives
a. smooth finish to the surface of the brim. To avoid confusion, 'the presser
or, protecting plate A is not shown in Figs. 1 and 2.
Under my improvements, the usual matrice base fis fitted or formed at its upper
portion with the usual brim shaping and curling matrices or plates ff. These
may either be made in one piece with the base as hitherto or, in accordance
with my invention, they might be made in detachable segments or parts which would
lift away with the hat when removed from the press.
....
The enlarged views Figs. 3, 4, 5 and 6 illustrate the base f 'fitted with 'the
said removable brim.curling plates ff. Each side of the matrice 'base fis
checked out and 'formed with any suitable number of dovetail recesses which
receive corresponding dovetails on the curl plates. To give it a 'better hold
the back of the curl plate itself is formed of a wedge shape as shown at 'Fig. 6
engaging with a similarly formed cutting or recess in the side of 'the matrice
base. The curl plates are thus so loosely applied that they 'lift away
with the hat with the utmost ease while at the same time they are so firmly
supported in position that no amount of pressure can dislodge or 'loosen them.
On the contrary the greater the pressure the more 'firmly are the 'curl plates
'locked in position. The side dovetails might be dispensed with and the
security of the curl plates trusted entirely to the wedge shaped 'hold shown in
Fig. 6. A material advantage gained from the use of such detachable side cutl
plates is that better shapes can be produced, as the loose curl plates c
removed without straining‘the curl of the hat brim.
can be

page_text: Although I have described my invention as applicable to the combined
operations of shaping and curling I might apply it to the brim curling operation
alone.
My invention extends also to the pressing of hats as well as the shaping and
curling of hat brims.
I propose to press, shape and curl the hat at one operation instead of by two or
three operations as at present.
In carrying out this part of my invention I combine in one apparatus the hat
press and mould and the brim shaping and curling surfaces or matrices.
Fig. 7 is.
a sectional view of the hat mould surrounded by the lowered cupola. The bag or
diaphragm b is of the improved shape already described with 'reference to Figs. 1
and 2 and is made with a central pap or "teat" b'. To economise water, I fix a
filling-up body such as in the cupola and projecting downward so as to partly
occupy the "teat" of the pressure bag b. The "teat "of the bag enters the
interior of the hat when the press is at work and is forced by the hydraulic
pressure against the interior of the hat, thereby pressing the exterior of the hat
against the interior of the mould so as to finish and form the hat.
At the same time the overlapping upper part of the bag b which as already said
is specially shaped to effect this result without undue strain or distention, lays over
and curls and shapes the brim as clearly shown in Fig. 7 of the drawings. The
brim is formed by the removable curling and shaping side plates or matrices f¹ fl
precisely as in the curling and shaping apparatus described in the first part of this
Specification.
When the pressure has been released and the cupola raised, the hat may be.
lifted out, bringing with it the separable parts or side curl plates f¹ f' which may
then be removed from the brim curls.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.
1. In apparatus for pressing, shaping and curling hats and hat brims by fluid
pressure, the carved or dished metal plate c fixed to the interior or exterior or to
the upper or lower side of the pressure bag or diaphragm of the cupola and curved
to a medium shape between the maximum and minimum curves of the usual hat
brims, in combination with the thickness of rubber d interposed between the
pressure bag and the said curved plate, whereby hat brims of different curves may
be dealt with by the same apparatus, substantially as described and shown.
2. In apparatus for shaping curling and pressing hat brims, the improved rubber
diaphragm or bag b in combination with the dished plate c and substantially of the
shape described and as indicated in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, the bag or
diaphragm being self supporting in the cupola and when subjected to pressure
enveloping the bat curls without undue distention or fatigue of the said bag or
diaphragm.
3. In hat moulds for pressing shaping and curling hats or hat brims, making the
curl plates or side pieces f¹ detachable so that they will come away with the hat
from the mould for the purposes and as hereinbefore described and shown.
4. The general arrangement, construction and combination of parts comprising
my improved apparatus for pressing, shaping and curling the brims of hats
substantially as described and as illustrated.
5. The method of and improved apparatus and means for pressing, shaping and
curling the hat and hat brim at one operation, substantially as described and as
indicated in Fig. 7 of the drawings.
6. The general arrangement, construction and combination of parts comprising
my improved apparatus for pressing, shaping and curling the hat and hat brim at
one operation instead of by two or three operations as at present, substantially as
described and as illustrated in Fig. 7 of the drawings.
7. In apparatus for pressing, shaping and curling hats and hat brims at one

page_text: or pap b¹ for. the
operation, the improved rubber bag or diaphragm 6 of the improved self supporting
shape referred to in Claim 2 and formed with a central "teat"
purposes and substantially as described and as shown in Fig. 7 of the drawings.
Dated the 17th day of May 1895.
For the Applicant,
E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
5, John Dalton Street, Manchester, Chartered Patent Agents.