Improvements in or applicable to Sewing Machines.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Oct., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 6th July, 1893-Accepted, 2nd Sept., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or applicable to Sewing Machines.
We, WILLIAM JONES, Director of the Firm Jones' Sewing Machine Co.
Limited, Guide Bridge, near Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Sewing
Machine Manufacturers, and HIRAM GEORGE HALL of the same place, Manager
to the said firm, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, to be as follows:-
The first part of our invention relates to an improved combination of mechanism
for giving oscillating movement to the shuttle of sewing machines which works
The shuttle driver is carried in an
against a face forming the segment of a circle.
arm having its axis on a vertical stud secured to the underside of the plate of the
machine. This shuttle carrying arm has a projection on that side of the axis
opposite to the arm, in which there is a slot which fits a bowl on the end of a
cranked or bent horizontal shaft having its bearings on the underside of the plate
of the machine. This cranked horizontal shaft does not rotate but simply oscillates
and in so doing oscillates the shuttle arm and shuttle to and fro.
On the back end of the horizontal cranked shaft there is an arm secured, which
has a pin in it that is jointed to the lower end of a connecting rod the upper
end of which is jointed to a crank or excentric on the ordinary upper rotary needle
actuating shaft, and thus oscillating motion is imparted to the shuttle.
The other parts of the mechanism of the machine are or may be such as are
ordinary and well known.
Secondly. Our invention refers to attachments or arrangements which may be
applied to or combined with sewing machines made according to the first part of
our invention or to other sewing machines, and its object is to facilitate the
production of corded work in sewing machines, that is, work in which cords are
sewn about parallel to each other between two or more fabrics, and to obviate the
objections to arrangements for this purpose hitherto used.
The arrangements are or may be used for cording in endless form, that is, when
the fabrics are first made into an endless belt (the cord being placed slightly in the
screw form) and in such case after the first or second round the machine carries on
the operation automatically, or the arrangements are or may be used for straight
parallel cording.
In carrying out this part of our invention, we feed the cord between the fabrics
by ordinary arrangements and the grooved foot-this part of our invention mainly
consisting in the arrangement of the parts which are to guide the fabric, one guide
coming into the space between the last cord sewn in, and that previously sewn, and
the other guide coming on the outer side of the cord last sewn in.
These guides are rigid arms jointed to a part secured to the presser bar, or to a
part secured to the table of the machine.
The arm guides are so jointed that they can work up and down to a slight extent,
and are kept down by a spring that allows them to lift to a slight extent to suit
slight variations, but the guiding arms are made rigid so as not to lift high enough
to get out of the channel between the cords and over them, and there is a screw by
which the height they are to be allowed to lift can be adjusted.
The guiding arms may each be separate, or may be formed according to one
arrangement in one piece, adjustable on an arm jointed to a bracket secured to the
table, with screw adjustments and a spring, or according to other arrangements,
without departing from that feature of our invention, making the guiding arms
elastic but rigid against lifting above a fixed extent.

page_text: By our arrangement the friction put upon the fabric by the guiding arms does
not obstruct the feeding of the fabric.
Dated this Sixth day.of October 1892.
PETER J. LIVSEY,
Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or applicable to Sewing Machines.
We, WILLIAM JONES, Director of the Firm Jones' Sewing Machine Co.
Limited, Guide Bridge, near Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Sewing
Machine Manufacturers, and HIRAM George HALL, of the same place, Manager
to the said firm, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
The first part of our invention relates to an improved combination of mechanism
for giving oscillating movement to the shuttle of sewing machines. The shuttle
driver is carried in an arm having its axis on a vertical stud secured to the under-
side of the plate of the machine. This shuttle carrying arm has a projection on
that side of the axis opposite to the arm, in which there is a slot which fits a bowl
on the end of a cranked or bent horizontal shaft having its bearings on the
underside of the plate of the machine. This cranked horizontal shaft does not
rotate but simply oscillates and in so doing oscillates the shuttle arm and shuttle to
and fro.
On the back end of the horizontal cranked shaft there is an arm secured, which
has a pin in it that is jointed to the lower end of a connecting rod, the upper end
of which is jointed to a crank or excentric on the ordinary upper rotary needle
actuating shaft, and thus oscillating motion is imparted to the shuttle.
The other parts of the mechanism of the machine are or may be such as are
ordinary and well known.
Secondly. Our invention refers to attachments or arrangements which may be
applied to or combined with sewing machines made according to the first part of
our invention or to other sewing machines, and its object is to facilitate the produc-
tion of corded work in sewing machines, that is, work in which cords are sewn about
parallel to each other between two or more fabrics and to obviate the objections to
arrangements for this purpose hitherto used.
The arrangements are or may be used for cording in endless form, that is, when
the fabrics are first made into an endless belt (the cord being placed slightly in the
screw form) and in such case after the first or second round the machine carries on
the operation automatically, or the arrangements are or may be used for straight
parallel cording.
In carrying out this part of our invention we feed the cord between the fabrics
by ordinary arrangements and the grooved foot-this part of our invention mainly
consisting in the arrangement of the parts which are to guide the fabric, one guide
coming into the space between the last cord sewn in, and that previously sewo, and
the other guide coming on the outer side of the cord last sewn in.
These guides are rigid arms jointed to a part secured to the presser bar, or to a
part secured to the table of the machine.
The arm guides are so jointed that they can work up and down to a slight
extent, and are kept down by a spring that allows them to lift to a slight extent to
suit slight variations, but the guiding arms are made rigid so as not to lift high
enough to get out of the channel between the cords and over them, and there is a
screw by which the height they are to be allowed to lift can be adjusted.
The guiding arms may each be separate, or may be formed according to one
arrangement in one piece, adjustable on an arm jointed to a bracket secured to the
table, with screw adjustments and a spring, or according to other arrangements

page_text: (without departing from that feature of our invention) by making the guiding arms
elastic but rigid against lifting above a fixed extent.
By our arrangement the friction put upon the fabric by the guiding arms does
not obstruct the feeding of the fabric.
Fig. 1, is a side elevation with a part of the upright part of the framing and the
table plate of the machine shown in section or broken away in order to show more
clearly those parts of the mechanism in the hollow framing and under the table
plate.
Fig. 2, is an elevation at the needle end of the machine, with the front plate that
covers part of the needle slide and presser foot mechanism removed.
Fig. 3, is a cross sectional elevation at about A-A Fig. 1, looking from the
needle end of the machine, and
Fig. 4, is a top plan view, the parts above the table plate and the table plate
being supposed removed or broken away and a part of the framing below the table
plate is shown in section in order to show the mechanism below the table plate
more clearly.
a, the table plate; a', the hollow upright from the table plate a, for the arm a³,
of the machine.
In the arm a', there are the bearings for the ordinary shaft b, having the fly and
driving wheel c, at one end and at the other end a disc or part d, having the
ordinary crank pin and bowl working in a cam slot in the part d', secured to the
needle slide bar d.
In the shaft, there is a crank 1, with which the upper end of a rod e, is con-
nected by a clip e', and two screws, the lower end of this rod e, is jointed with a
pin e, secured in an arm e³, attached to the end of a shaft e, in bearings formed in
projections a³, from the underside of the table plate a.
The other end of this shaft e, is bent obliquely and formed as shown best in
Fig. 4, its end having an anti-friction bowl e, upon it that fits and works in
a slot in a part forming a lever, the slot being parallel to the axis of the
stud e, upon which the lever e, oscillates, the end of which stud e', is secured
in the underside of the table plate a. The boss of the lever e, is slit and
there are two screws e³, that pass through flanges on each side of the slit, so
that the bore of the boss of the lever e, may be made to fit the stud e³,
without play.
The lever e, is kept in position on the stud e', endways by a screw collar on the
lower end of the stud, which collar is locked when adjusted by a small screw e*,
screwing through the screw collar e, and against the stud e².
To the other end of the lever es, a shuttle carrier and propeller e, is attached
so as to be adjustable.
The shuttle is not shown but may be any ordinary and suitable shuttle or an
ordinary and suitable straight shuttle, open at one end for the spool to be inserted
in the shell of the shuttle.
The shuttle may be arranged to work against a segmental face a', which is in a
curve, struck from the axis e', of the lever e. Or the shuttle may be arranged and
carried in the shuttle driver and carrier, so as not to work against a segmental face a*,
which latter is a well known arrangement.
It will be understood that the crank 1, on the shaft b, only gives oscillatory
movement to the shaft e, and the bowl e, only makes a downward and upward
movement to an equal or about an equal extent on each side of a vertical plane
passing through the axis of the shaft e, and this gives the lever, and thus the
shuttle, the required to and fro movement.
The feed mechanism of the machine is ordinary with the exception herein-
after described, that is to say, the feeding movement is given by an excentric
or cam, on the shaft b, which acts upon the fork in the upper end of a lever or
rod f', the lower end of which is jointed with a pin f, in an arm f³, from a
rocking shaft f, in screw centres f.
The lever or rod f³, has a stud f, in its side for a bowl f', which works in a

page_text: slot in a disc f, on a short shaft having bearings in the framing a¹, the outer end
of which has a handle, for moving the slotted part to place it in any desired
angle in relation to the bowl f, and lever f¹, the lateral movement given by the
excentric, to the fork of the lever, produces an up and down movement in the
lengthway of the lever or rod f¹, according to the extent of the inclination of the said
slot in a well known manner, and thus gives the feeding movement to produce the
required length of stitch.
.
On the shaft, there are two arms ƒ×, having screw centres f", for a frame f
one arm f, of which, carries the ordinary feeding serrated surface.
Another arm, of this frame is forked or otherwise at its end to grasp or press
upon a cam f, on the shaft e, and the oscillations of this shaft e', and the action
of the cam, on the frame fb, give the required up and down lifting movement
to the feeding surfaces.
The other mechanism of the sewing machine are ordinary parts but will be
referred to by reference letters in order that the invention may be fully
understood.
d, is the needle; g, the presser foot slide bar g', the presser foot; g², the
tubular bearing and adjusting screw for the spring on the presser foot slide
bar; g³, the lever for lifting and lowering the presser foot g', which lever has its
fulcrum at g; h, is the ordinary slack thread lever on a fulcrum at ', actuated
by the cam on the shaft b, in the front end of which the pin is inserted for
actuating the needle slide bar d. i, is an ordinary thread disc tension
arrangement.
The second part of our invention is illustrated by Figs. 5 to 9 inclusive.
Fig. 5, is a side elevation.
Fig. 6, a plan, and
Fig. 7, an end elevation illustrating one modification of this part of our
invention.
a, is part of the table plate and a', part of the hollow upright from it.
k, is an arm, one end of which is secured by screws k¹, to the upper side of the
table plate a.
The underside of this arm k, comes above the upper surface of the table plate a,
so that the cloth being sewn, can pass freely between the upper surface of the table
plate, and the underside, and the end of the arm k.
The cord 1, passes from the spool (not shown) in any suitable and convenient
position through guiding eyes k³, secured to the arm k, to and through its hollow
curved end, which guides the cord to the position required between the fabrics,
so that the right hand side of the cord l, when looking at Fig. 6, is on the left
hand side of the needle (see Fig. 6).
The cords come between two fabrics and if desired there may be a third
thickening fabric between the two fabrics in which case the cords come above the
thickening fabric which is above the lower fabric, and below the upper fabric.
When one cord has been stitched between the fabrics the next cord is fed and
sewn between the fabrics parallel to the first cord and so on there being a space
between adjoining cords equal to about twice the thickness of the upper fabric.
The presser foot g', (see Fig. 7) is the ordinary one, except that its lower face,
which comes in contact with the upper face of the corded fabric has grooves in it
to suit the thickness of and space between the cords, which grooves act as guides
to keep the cords and cloth in position while being sewn.
In Fig. 6, the circles d², and y, represent respectively the needle and presser
foot bars in section.
In Fig. 7, the presser foot g', and part of its slide bar g, and part of the needle
slide bar d² is shown, and also part of the framing a², carrying the slide bars for
the needle and presser foot, but neither the needle bar nor presser foot bar is shown
in Fig. 5.
In making corded fabrics, a cord may be inserted and stitched to the full length
of the fabric and is then cut off, and another cord is stitched in like manner until

page_text: the required number of cords are added commencing to stitch each cord at the
same end of the fabric.
But when convenient, corded fabrics are made in the sewing machine with the
least trouble, when the desired length of fabrics is stitched end to end to form an
endless belt, or web, one side of which endless web or belt is passed under the
presser foot g', of the machine, and the web is or may be guided to and from the
needle if required, and convenient on rollers one on each side of the machine, so
that it can be readily moved forward end ways as each cord is being stitched.
When thus arranged the cords form a continuous cording and the operation need
not be interrupted until completed, except for supplying the needle and shuttle with
thread, when the endless corded web may be separated and severed where the two
ends are stitched together.
This part of our invention consists mainly in the means of guiding the corded
fabric while being sewn.
There is a bracket m, which is secured by screws m¹, to the upper side of the
table plate a, of the machine or this bracket may be secured to the underside of the
arm (a, see Fig. 1) of the sewing machine.
The end of this bracket or arm n, is formed with a fork to receive the end of an
arm m², jointed to it on a fulcrum at m³. The other end of this arm m², is grooved
on its upper surface for the projection m*, from a steel plate bent in the form shown
by Figs. 5, 6 and 7 with two feet m², and m.
The projection m', is slotted for a screw m², to pass through into a screw tapped
hole in the arm m², which arrangement allows the steel guiding feet m³, and me, or
pressers to be adjusted to the channels between the cords when stitched between the
fabrics.
In Fig. 6, one cord l', is shown which is that supposed to have been last stitched
between the fabrics and another cord l, is shown which is supposed to be that in
the act of being stitched between the fabrics.
The fabrics being stitched pass in the direction shown by the arrow on Fig. 6,
and the rear foot or presser m³, is arranged to come in the channel between the
cord last stitched (l) and the one previously stitched, that is to say, on the left
side of the cord l', looking at Fig. 6, as shown.
The forward foot or guide me, comes in the channel, between the cords I, and l¹,
when the cord l, has been stitched in the fabrics.
In the bracket m, there is a screw stud m8, upon which a part m³, can turn.
This part m, carries an adjusting screw m*, the point of which can come upon
the upper surface of the lever or arm m³, and prevent it from lifting above a given
height or so high as to allow the guiding feet mo, or me, to lift out of the channels
between the cords.
which
There is a light helical spring ma, upou the end of the adjusting screw m*,
at one end abuts against the underside of the part m³, and at the other end against the
upper side of the arm or lever m², this spring presses the latter down slightly to
keep the guiding feet m³, and mo, in the channels between the cords, at the same
time allowing the fabric being sewn to be freely fed forward.
The part m, can be turned to one side ou its stud m", in which position the
arm m³, can be lifted to bring the feet mo, and m³, clear of the cloth.
There is a projection m³, from the part m³, that comes against a pin mo, in the
bracket m, when in the position shown in Figs. 5 and 6.
Fig. 8, is an elevation, and
Fig. 9, a plan of another modification for carrying out this part of our invention,
where the guiding feet m', and m, are attached to and carried by the presser foot
slide bar g.
The cord 1, is brought to the position to be stitched between the fabrics as
hereinbefore described in reference to Figs. 5, 6 and 7.
k (Fig. 9) being part of the arm for guiding the cord between the fabrics.
m, is a bracket secured to the presser foot slide bar g, by a screw g³.

page_text: The thin steel guiding feet m³, and m³, are each jointed to this bracket m, one (m³)
at ma, the other (m) at me.
The ends of the bracket m, are screw tapped each for an adjusting screw m*.
The screw tapped hole is or may be slit and have flanges for a set screw m²,
by which play may be prevented and the screws m*, locked if required when
adjusted.
The end of each screw acts when adjusted to prevent the feet (m³, or m³) from
lifting out of the channels between the cords, but allow a little play.
On each screw there is a helical spring me, arranged and having the same object
as the spring in, hereinbefore mentioned in reference to Figs. 5 and 6. .
One part of the bracket m, carrying the guiding foot m³, is or may be made
separate from the other part of the bracket m, and connected with it by a screw m³,
as shown in dotted line in Fig. 8, in order that when required the guiding foot m³,
may be adjusted laterally to its channel between the cords which are being stitched
between the fabrics.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we'
claim is.
1. The combination of a crank or excentric on the upper shaft with a connecting
rod and arm on the end of an oscillating cranked shaft in suitable bearings under
the cloth plate actuating an oscillating shuttle driving lever substantially as herein-
before described and illustrated by Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive of the drawings.
2. The combination of shuttle driving mechanism referred to in Claim 1 with
mechanism for feeding the cloth substantially as hereinbefore described and
illustrated by the drawings.
3. The combination of shuttle needle and feeding mechanism substantially as
herein before described and illustrated by the drawings.
4. The combination with sewing machines for producing corded fabrics of two
feet or pressers to enter the channels between the cords of the fabric arranged
substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by the drawings.
5. The combination with sewing machines for producing corded fabrics, of two
feet or pressers to enter the channels between the cords of the fabric, combined
with an arm guiding the cord between the fabrics, substantially as herein before
described and illustrated by the drawings.
6. The combination and arrangement of mechanism with sewing machines sub-
stantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore described and illustrated by Figs. 5, 6,
and 7 of the drawings.
7. The combination and arrangement of mechanism with sewing machines sub-
stantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore described and illustrated by Figs. 8
and 9 of the drawings.
Thind the J
T 1
1000
PETER J. LIVSEY,
Agent.