IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, EMBROIDERY STITCHES, Apparatus, TreaDLES, AND IN MEANS OF CONTROLING THE SAME WHEN IN ACTION."
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Moore Clements, of Birmingham, in the
County of Warwick, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, for the Inven-
tion of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, EMBROIDERY STITCHES,
Apparatus, TreaDLES, AND IN MEANS OF CONTROLING THE SAME WHEN IN
ACTION.""
Scaled the 7th May 1875, and dated the 1st February 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Moore Clements
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,"
on the 1st February 1875.
I, JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS, of Birmingham, in the County of.
Warwick, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature.
of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, EMBROIDERY
STITCHES, APPARATUS, TREADLES, AND IN MEANS OF CONTROLING THE SAME WHEN
IN ACTION," to be as follows, that is to say:-
The first part of my Invention relates to sewing machines workëd
either by hand or treadle, in which the shuttle reel is wound by motion
A
:

page_text: -
derived from the driving wheel or toothed wheel of the machine, and
consists in making the driving wheel of sewing machines loose upon its
axis, and also loose from the usual central toothed, wheel in those
machines driven by toothed wheels, and giving a little longitudinal
play to the driving wheel upon its shaft or axis. In the case where thic
driving wheel is fixed upon a shaft of the machine, I interpose a small
boss or collar fixed upon the shaft, and make upon this fast collar a
recess or clutch of any suitable form, and upon the boss of the driving
wheel I form a corresponding lug or clutch. At the other side of the
boss of the wheel I place a coiled spring that will keep the driving wheel
up to and in contact with the before-mentioned clutch formed upon the
fixed collar. In the periphery of the boss of the wheel I form a groove
for the purpose of receiving one or more pins or lugs. At a convenient
distance from the axis of the wheel I put the fixed end of a flexible steel
spring piece having an opening in it, through which the boss of the
driving wheel may pass, and extending får enough to reach the outer
edge of the wheel. Upon this spring I place one or more pins or studs
to take into the groove formed around the boss of the driving wheel,
allowing the latter to revolve freely. At the other end of this spring
piece I place the holder for one end of the shuttle reel in such a way
that the action of placing the reel for winding shall disconnect the
driving wheel from the fixed collar, and the withdrawing of the reel
from the winding apparatus shall again allow the driving wheel to
engage with the collar fixed upon the shaft.
In those machines driven by a main toothed wheel usually fixed upon
the driving wheel, the latter running free upon its axis, I make the
toothed wheel and the driving wheel cach revolve free upon their
seperate axis, or one wheel to revolve free upon the boss of the other, in
which case the toothed wheel would represent the fixed collar before
described, and would have pins of wire passing freely, latterally, through
the boss, the pins being longer than the length of the boss. When the
spring plate of the winding apparatus pressed against them they would
pass through the boss of the toothed wheel, and by pressing upon the
boss of the driving wheel push the latter out of contact with the clutch.
To prevent the wearing away of the ends of the pins a thin hard steel
washer may be inserted to take the friction of the driving wheel. When
the shuttle reel is removed from the winding apparatus, the spring
at the end of the axis of the driving wheel will again cause it to comé

page_text: in contact with and engage the clutch on the boss of the toothed
wheel.
* Another way of engaging and disengaging the driving wheel with the
fixed boss or collar or the toothed wheel, I obtain by casting one or more
straight or curvilineal recesses radiating from the centre and of varying
depth in the inner face of the toothed wheel or the collar, as the case
may be also in the driving wheel in such a way that when these two
faces are brought together the recesses formed will be less as they recede
from the centre. I then take a plate of steel in which a hole is made to
allow it to revolve freely upon the axis of the driving wheel, and in this
plate I pierce a slot or slots corresponding or otherwise with those
formed in the faces of the wheels, but sometimes curved in the opposito
direction. This plate I place upon the boss of the toothed wheel or
fixed collar, and into the recess I place spherical balls of sufficient size
to fill up the space in the-one face and about half that in the other at
the deepest part. I then place the driving wheel upon its axis, and by
any convenient means secure it from coming off. I so fix the intervening
plate that when the machine is worked, the plate engages with a stop on
the driving wheel; and in this position the plate holds the friction balls
at the shallow part of the recess and binds the driving wheel and the
toothed wheel or collar firmly together. When a shuttle reel is required
to be wound the one end of the recl is inserted in the end of the plate
formed for the purpose, and by doing so the plate is disengaged from
the driving wheel, and comes in contact with the toothed wheel (or
collar); this liberates the friction of the balls in the recesses and leaves
the driving wheel free to revolve, the balls being held (by the action of
the plate) in that part of the recesses where there is room for them to.
lie without coming in contact with the driving wheel.
As will be readily understood slots may be required only in the face of
one wheel or the intervening plate may be dispensed with, the effect
being partially the same; but I prefer slots in both wheels, as it permits
the intervening plate to be in the position of the greatest diameter of the
balls. The plate can also be made with a longitudinal slot to slide freely
upon the axis of the driving wheel, and have a round hole instead of a
curved slot; in this case it will be held in position to ensure the friction
of the balls by a spring, but upon the insertion of the shuttle reel for
winding, the friction will be withdrawn. These balls may be made of.
any suitable material, hardened steel, lead, hard wood, leather, or
A 2

page_text: vulcanite. Vulcanized india-rubber will not do as the oil used on the
machine destroys its action.
Another modification of this Invention is to have parts of the plato
pierced and indented, forming wedges and springs that upon withdrawing
the shuttle reel from the winding apparatus, the plate shall wedge itself
(by the pressure of the spring) between the driving wheel and the
toothed wheel, and ensure the turning of the latter. The object of this
part of my Invention is to make the driving wheel, the toothed wheel,
(or collar) and the winder, that the act of putting in the shuttle reel for
winding shall disengage the driving wheel, and that the withdrawal of
the reel shall permit the re-engagement of the driving wheel.
In another method of obtaining the same object I make a loose collar
upon the end of the driving shaft, upon this collar I cut a screw, and
also a screw of the same size inside the boss of the driving wheel. Upon
the fixed collar also I cut a corresponding screw; the boss of the
driving wheel I make shorter than these two screws; the action of the
driving wheel when revolving in the right direction is to run on to the
fixed collar, thereby driving the machine; when running in the wrong
direction it runs off the fixed collar and turns the free one round with it
on the shaft.
It will be readily understood that the methods described here must
necessarily be altered and modified to suit the positions of the driving
wheel and winder of different machines, and also to allow of the driving
wheel disengaging itself if revolved the wrong way.
To enable me to wind the disc spool on a machine made after the
principle of a Wheeler and Wilson machine without operating the
machine, I place a winder at a convenient position to be driven by
contact with the flat band, and I place a second or auxiliary pulley to
hold the band against the pulley of the winder; the second pulley may
be the belt tightener at present in use, or the winder may be added to
the belt tightener. The action of the belt running between the two
pulleys would slacken the belt upon the pulley of the machine, and
prevent the latter revolving during the winding.
Another part of my Invention consists of a new or improved
embroidery stitch and means for effecting the same. For this purpose I
attach to the pressure arm of the machine or to any other part of the
machine that may be convenient, a plate for the foundation of the
-

page_text: several parts of the embroiderer. When the embroiderer is attached to
the arm I place a lever, which at its lower end carries a looper for the
purpose of carrying silk, thread, worsted, cord, gimp, or other embroidering
material under the point of the needle previous to its descent; this looper
has an eye near its point for the material to pass through, and will be
curved to suit the different kinds of machines. This looper has a to-and-
fro motion horizontally and diagonally to the traverse of the sewing, and
also a slight rocking motion to pass clear of the needle. The upward
stroke of the needle arm propells the looper in position under the needle,'
ready for the descent, and when the needle arm reaches its lowest part
the looper is withdrawn and the embroidery material drawn around the
needle, forming a series of overlying. loops connected by the sewing to
the fabric sewn; I form a small collar either on the presser or loose to
make large loops. Two of these loopers may be used if required; and
either worked in unison with each other or every alternate stitch.. In
either case a very full and handsome effect will be produced. When
braid is used I operate the looper only as often as there are loops to bo
formed, that is, if a loop is to be formed every third, fourth, or fifth stitch

page_text: Another part of my Invention relates to a new combination of feed
mechanism for sewing. I attach a connecting rod and a set screw to the
rocking arm, and connect the other end with the toothed feeder, either!
with a slotted quadrant, a link motion, or sliding incline, and thereby
obtain the requisite to-and-fro motion of the feeder with a silent
action.
:
Another part of my Invention is a spring work holder to engage with
the work after it is stitched, and carry it away from the needle instead
of using the hand. This work holder consists of a curved steel spring or
a straight rod in suitable guides, and carried forward by, a spring. In
either case I form it at one end so that it does readily engage with the
work and carry it forward a length at a time.
Another part of my Invention consists in making the various parts of
sewing machine stands and treadles in part of wrought iron and in part
of cast, and in such a way that they may be dispatched long distances or
exported without the liability to breakage of cast iron, thereby saving
the loss in breakage and the extra cost and care of packing. I also
introduce ornamental castings. or stampings in brass or other metal as
garnishing or ornaments, and under certain arrangements I introduce
discs of printed silk, or flutings of coloured silk, or ornaments of glass
or other substances, according to taste, in the sides or fronts of the
stands.
Another part of my Invention consists of a means of driving the
treadle of a sewing machiné by the foot and dispensing with the crank
or crank pin. I effect this by having a small groove forming a pulley
in the periphery of the boss of the fly wheel and placing a pulley of the
same size as far from the first pulley as the shape of the upright stand
will allow. These two pulleys must be placed with the groove and
axis of each parallel with each other. Around them I place a band
formed of a belt, or round strap, or flexible cord; as this band runs
around the pulleys their lengths will form two parallel lines equidistant
from each other. To the arm of the treadle or foot pan I fix a con-
necting rod of sufficient length to reach nearly to but not touch the
pulley of the fly wheel. At the end of this connecting rod I place a
small plate of metal upon which I hang two short levers which are free
-

page_text: to swing one way but are kept against a stop by a slight spring. When'
each of these levers are against their respective stops they are nearly in
a straight line with each other. One of these levers moves away from
the stop in an upward direction, the other downwards. The free ends
of these levers are as far apart as the parallel lines of the band, and near
each end upon the plate is fixed a flat piece of metal having an aperture
sufficiently large to permit the free passage of the band. A suitable
guide is fixed for the passage of the connecting rod when it is required.
The action is as follows:-Upon the down stroke of the treadle the
one lever will impinge upon the band and prevent it running through.
the aperture but will carry it downwards, and by doing so will cause tho
fly wheel to revolve. At the up stroke the second lever performs the
corresponding movement upwards, and carries the band along with it,
thereby driving the fly wheel only in one direction. A second treadle
or foot pan with its connecting rod and levers may be used on the same
band, which by the alternate motion of each foot will overcome the
slight intermittent motion caused by the stop at each throw.
I
Another way to overcome this intermittent motion is to have the fly
wheel heavier, and the apertures for the band made in the free ends of
the levers in a parallel.line to the band when the levers are home
against the stop. In this case the springs must be so placed to pull the
lever from the stop instead of against them. The action of levers made.
in this way is that when the treadle is descending the aperture of tho
lever will form an angle with the line of traverse of the band, and the
more it pulls the band the tighter is the latter held in the aperture. The
upward stroke of the connecting rod enables the lever to regain its
position against the stop; meanwhile the second lever is performing the
work of driving the band as before described. One advantage of this
method is that the pull of either lever upon the band tightens the band
upon the wheel pulley, and at the moment of reversing the stroke the
band is slackened and permits the fly wheel to continue its revolution
without check.
The band, as before described, may be carried to the main wheel of
the machine, and in that way drive it direct from the foot treadle
without the use of an intermediate fly wheel, in which case a much
longer stroke must be given to the arm of the treadle to which the con-
necting rod is fixed; it is also preferable to have a much heavier wheel
than those generally used.

page_text: Where a pendulum treadle swinging from the knee joint is used I
propose to make the pendulous bar as long as possible below the foot
pan, take the band around two pulleys as well as the driving wheel
pulley, thereby forming a triangle; in this case I put the levers to act
upon the horizontal portion of the belt. In some cases I use two levers
closing against each other, and in other cases' I use two eccentric pullies
kept in position by springs.
Another part of my Invention is an instrument either fixed on or
separate from the several kinds of machines, having for its object the
prevention of the backward movement of the machine. For each form
of machine a different shape will be required for this instrument.
For the machines known under the name of Wheeler and Wilson
machines I make a belt guide to screw to the machine with the same
screw that holds the machine to the table. In an aperture of this guide,
through which the band passes, I place a flat steel lever having a bent
árm, this lever is kept in contact with the band by a spring sufficiently
free to permit the passage of the band in the right direction; but if the
machine is moved the wrong way the belt is checked and does not move
the machine. The check is not sudden, and therefore not liable to strain
or break the parts of the treadle. To allow of the machine being turned
backwards at will the arm of the lever is pressed upon by the finger, or
can be held down permanently by the small spring before mentioned.
This spring can be introduced into the bed of the machine, in which
case the casting will have to be altered to correspond with the shape of
the guide. The guide can be fixed in its place without removing the
machine or unlacing the belt.
To obtain the same effect I sometimes form a guide shaped like a
hopper fixed underneath the table; one side of this hopper is shaped so
that it forms a line with the belt, the other side slants away from the
belt in an inclined plane, upon which I place a cylindricle roller of any
hard substance sufficiently heavy; as the belt revolves it causes the roller
to mount up the incline away from the belt, which action is counter-
acted by its own weight. If the machine is turned the wrong way the
roller jams the belt in the narrow part of the hopper and holds it fast.
The roller may be lifted by centres passing through the parallel sides of
the hopper.
For some kinds of machines I make a taper tube of sufficient length

page_text: to guide the belt and introduce a round ball of metal or wood; or I line
the tube with two rings, one above the other, and put a flexible ring
to work in the tube, that when the band runs the wrong way the
flexible ring will be compressed on to the belt by the narrow part of the
tube.
In some instances I make the belt guide with an aperture. large
enough to allow the belt to rúú free, and fix it to the table or the
machine by a screw, when its action will be similar to the lever
described in the method of driving the treadle.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said James Moore Clements in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 30th July 1875.
"
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
MOORE CLEMENTS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Sewing
Machine Maker, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the First day of February, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-
ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said James Moore Clements, Her special
licence, that I, the said James Moore Clements, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Moore
Clements, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, EMBROIDERY STITCHES,
APPARATUS, TREADLES, AND IN MEANS OF CONTROLLING THE SAME WHEN IN
ACTION," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said James'
Moore Clements, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and scals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said -Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same.
A.
:

page_text: to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Moore Clements, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawings
hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is
to say) :-
:-
In sheet 1 of the Drawings Figure 1 is a front clevation of that part
of a sewing machine necessary to represent the action of my Invention
for winding or filling with cotton the shuttle reels of a machine without
turning the machine, the separate parts being self-acting on putting
the reel into the winder; A is the frame of the machine; B is the
hand wheel; C is the winder; D is the moveable stop for detaching the
cog wheel; E is the india-rubber friction ring of the winder; F is the
toothed driving wheel, and F1 is a lever with peg: for engaging into
the boss of the hand wheel, and is held up by a spring G, as shewn at
Figure 2.
.
The action of these parts will be as follows:-When the shuttle reel is
inserted between the end of the winder at C1 and the winder. C, the
latter will be forced backward until the rubber ring comes in contact
with the inner side of the rim of the wheel B at B1; in doing so the
winder spindle upon which the fork of the moveable stop D is placed
carries the stop pin (shewn at D 1) into a position indicated by D 2, that
when the lever F by its revolution comes in contact with it, the stop peg
shall be withdrawn from the boss of the hand wheel, and leave the latter
free to revolve, disengaged from the toothed wheel. When the reel is
filled and withdrawn from the winder, the spring D3 (one end of which
is fixed to the under side of the forked part of the stop D), withdraws
the stop from contact with the lever, leaving the latter free to enter into
either of the three holes in the boss of the hand wheel (these holes are
shewn in Figure 2 in the part of the boss shewn in section). The shape
of the lever F is such that if the hand wheel is turned the wrong way
the stop pin detaches the hand wheel from the toothed wheel and
prevents the actuation of the machine.
Figures 3 and 4 represents the same Invention applied to another
A in the hands of the
T
ד
LA
1

page_text: free on the shaft; C, C, is a flexible plate of steel carrying the winder at
the top end, and being fixed to the bed of the machine with two screws
C1, C2; D is the winder; E is the friction ring of the winder;
F is a clutch boss fixed upon the shaft of the machine; G is a corre-
sponding clutch formed upon the face of the boss of the fly wheel; H_
is a groove made in the circumference of the boss of the wheel into
which the pins C 3, C4, Fig. 4, engage; I is a coiled spring held in
place by a screw J for the purpose of keeping the clutch of the wheel up
to and in contact with the clutch of the fixed collar, except at such time
as they are held apart by the insertion of the shuttle reel.
In those machines driven by a main toothed wheel usually fixed upon
the driving wheel, the latter running free upon its axis, I make the
toothed wheel and the driving wheel each revolve free upon their
separate axis, or one wheel to revolve free upon the boss of the other, in
which case the toothed wheel would represent the fixed collar before
described, and would have pins of wire passing freely, laterally, through
the boss, the pins being longer than the length of the boss; when the
spring plate of the winding aparatus pressed against them they would
pass through the boss of the toothed wheel, and by pressing upon the
boss of the driving wheel push the latter out of contact with the clutch.
To prevent the wearing away of the end of the pins a thin hard steel
washer may be inserted to take the friction of the driving wheel. When
the shuttle reel is removed from the winding aparatus the spring at the
end of the axis of the driving wheel will again cause it to come in
contact with and engage the clutch on the boss of the toothed wheel.
Another way of engaging and disengaging the driving wheel with the
fixed boss or collar or the toothed wheel I obtain by casting one or more
straight or curvilineal recesses radiating from the centre, and of varying
depth in the inner face of the toothed wheel or the collar, as the case
may be, also in the driving wheel in such a way that when these two
faces are brought together, the recesses formed will be less as they
recede from the centre.
Figures 5, and 6, and 7, shew the other modifications of my Inven-
tion, A, A, A, A, being the curved recesses formed in the inner faces of the
hand wheel and the toothed wheel; these recesses are of varying depth
as shewn in section at Figure 7; B, B, are balls shewn in the deepest
part of the recesses, and B1, B2, in Figure 6, and B3, B4, in Figure 7,

page_text: :
shews the position of the balls at varying parts of the grooves; C is a
plate (shewn in dotted lines only) made to slide upon the toothed wheel
in any convenient way to free the ball or balls when the end C1 of the
plate comes against the stop of the winder. After the insertion of the
reel I sometimes so fix the intervening plate that when the machine is
worked, the plate engages with a stop on the driving wheel and in this
position the plate holds the friction balls at the shallow part of the
recess, and binds the driving wheel and the toothed wheel (or collar)
firmly together. When a shuttle reel is required to be wound the one
end of the reel is inserted in the end of the plate formed for the purpose,
and by doing so the plate is disengaged from the driving wheel and
comes in contact with the toothed wheel (or collar); this liberates the
friction of the balls in the recesses and leaves the driving wheel free to
revolve, the balls being held (by the action of the plate) in that part of
the recesses where there is room for them to lie without coming in
contact with the driving wheel:
As will be readily understood slots may be required only in the face
of one wheel, or the intervening plate may be dispensed with, the effect
being partially the same; but I prefer slots in both wheels, as it permits
the intervening plate to be in the position of the greatest diameter of
the balls. The plate can also be made with a longitudinal slot to slide
freely upon the axis of the driving wheel, or have a round hole instead
of a slot, as shewn at C, Figure 6; in this case it is held in position to
ensure the friction of the balls by a spring, but upon the insertion of the
shuttle reel for winding, the plate C is pushed back and the friction is
withdrawn. These balls may be made of any suitable material, hardened
stcel, lead, hard wood, leather, or vulcanite; vulcanized india-rubber
will not do as the oil used on the machine destroys its action.
Another modification of this Invention is to have parts of the plato
pierced and indented, forming wedges and springs that upon withdrawing a
the shuttle reel from the winding aparatus the plate shall wedge itself
(by the pressure of the spring) between the driving wheel and the
toothed wheel and ensure the turning of the latter.
I wish it distinctly understood that my claim in this part of my
Invention is, making the driving wheel, the toothed wheel (or collar), 3
and the winder of a sewing machine in such a way that the act of
putting in the shuttle reel for winding shall disengage the driving wheel;

page_text: and that the withdrawal of the reel shall permit the re-engagement of
the driving wheel, and I do not limit myself to the several details herein
set forth.
In another method of partially obtaining the same object I make a
loose collar upon the end of the driving shaft; upon this collar I cut a
screw, and also a screw of the same size inside the boss of the driving
wheel; upon the fixed collar also I cut a corresponding screw. The
boss of the driving wheel I make shorter than these two screws. The
action of the driving wheel when revolving in the right direction is to
run on to the fixed collar, thereby driving the machine; when running
in the wrong direction it runs off the fixed collar and turns the free one
round with it on the shaft.
.
It will be readily understood that the methods described here must
necessarily be altered and modified to suit the positions of the driving
wheel and winder of different machines, and also to allow of the drving
wheel disengaging itself if revolved the wrong way.
To enable me to wind the disc spool on a machine made after the
principle of a Wheeler and Wilson machine without operating the
machine I place a winder at a convenient position to be driven by
contact with the flat band, and I place a second or auxilary pulley to
hold the band against the pulley of the winder. The second pulley may'
be the belt tightener at present in use, or the winder may be added to
the belt tightener. The action of the belt running between the two
pullies would slacken the belt upon the pulley of the machine and
prevent the latter revolving during the winding..
Figures 8, 9, 10, represents my Invention for winding the dise spool
of a Wheeler Wilson machine without running the machine. The same
letters indicate the same parts in each Figure. A is the winder pulley
fixed to the spindle B, running freely through holes in the castings
at C, C; D is the disc spool; E, Figure 9, is the belt; Fis the usual
belt pulley for driving the machine; G is the driving pulley; H is a
moveable pressure pulley held in a frame I oscillating on the spindle J
in hanging brackets K; L is a handle to move the frame I backwards
and forwards, and has a pointed end to form a stop; M is a spring fixed.
over the handle L, and is made V shaped at the end to hold the lever L
and its frame I and the pressure pulley in either position when required...
It will be readily seen that by drawing the lever Li towards the operator

page_text: of the machine the pulley H. will release the tension of the band on the
pulley F and grip it against the winder pulley A, causing the latter to
revolve without the pulley F revolving.
In this part of my Invention I do not limit myself to the exact details
hercin set forth, but to the Invention so far as it relates to the winding
of a disc spool by the friction of the belt running between one or two
pullies whilst running freely over the machine pulley.
This Invention will be of great use in a modified form, for the purpose
of ensuring the grip of a band without the latter being so tight as to
materially increase the friction in the bearings of the shafts; to explain
this application of the Invention, I remove the pulley A (made smaller)
in dotted lines at N, Figure 9, and the pulley H removed to whero
shewn in dotted lines at O. These pullies are to be mounted in any
convenient way suitable to the conformation of the machine they are to
be applied to, and held to press upon the driving band of the machine
with more or less pressure by a spring to cach shaft; these pressure
rollers will be found very suitable to hand machines with a round band
and V grooves in the pullies.
Figure 11 is a front view, and Figure 12 is a side view of one form of
the part of my Invention which refers to the embroidery, and is shewn
in the shape neccessary for a Wheeler Wilson machine only. A is the
presser arm; B is the needle arm shewn with the needle end broken off,
to shew the presser foot and looper; C is the frame for holding the
embroider arm, and is fastened to the presser arm A by the usual screw
at D; E is the vibrating arm carrying the looper F and actuated by the
needle arm traversing the irregular slot G; H represents a reel of silk
cord coloured red and passing through the thread eyes to the looper F,
shewn in Figure 11 in position for the descent of the needle, but in
Figure 12 in position for the up stroke of the needle.
The operation is as follows:-As the needle arm of the machine travels;
towards the top of the slot G, it brings the looper F over the needle hole,
and carrying the sewing cotton to one side of the sewing, and forming an
aperture for the descent of the needle between the looper F and the silk
cord, as shewn at H. Upon the withdrawal of the looper, the silk cord
will be left around the needle in the form of a loop, and will be full or
close according to the tension put upon the cord by the tension nut I.
If the embroidery cord is wanted to be in very loose loops, an adjustable

page_text: collar may be placed upon the presser foot J. If a secondary motion is
required for some kinds of work, a joint and cam can be made at the
upper part of the frame C, to permit of the vibrating arm E having a
motion four ways instead of two only. If a second looper is required, it
should work at an angle to this one, and pass on the other side of the
needle thread, and sometimes I use a star wheel for the intermittent
stitches.
Figure 13 shews the form of the embroidery when one looper is used,
and Figure 14 when two are used. These Drawings are much enlarged
to shew the stitch.
I do not wish to limit myself to this especial form as here shewn,
but claim as my Invention the embroidery, and the employing a
looper or loopers to make such embroidery, and to lay loops of material
as shewn around the usual stitches, and operated substantially as
herein described, allowing for the variation requisite for the different
forms of machine, either single thread or double thread machines.
Figure 15 is a plan, and Figure 16 is a front view of my improved
plaiter. A is the casting or frame of the machine; B is the cloth plate;
C is the foundation plate of the plaiter fastened to the machine by the
cloth plate screws, one of which is shewn at C1; D is a part of the
foundation plate set up a little from the cloth plate to permit of
the passage of the material between them; E is a toothed piece for
holding on to the fabric to push it along towards the needle; this
toothed picce is held on to tlie fabric by the coiled spring F, and is -
pivoted at El on to a carrier G sliding upon two parallel rods H, H1.
This carrier bas an adjustable draw bar I, adjustable by the slot and
screw I1, and sliding freely through the turned up end of the foundation
plate C at C2; this draw bar has a peg or runner at I 2, and is actuated
by a snail cam J fastened upon one end of an arbor J1; upon the other
end is fixed a star or spur wheel K, which spur wheel is actuated by an
adjustable peg or tappet L. The arbor J 1 is carried upon a fixture or
bracket attached to the foundation plate C, or it may be carried into tho
casting of the machine at J 2.
The action is as follows:-At each revolution of the main shaft M of
the machine, the peg L will enter into one of the spurs of the wheel K,
and carry the latter and also the snail cam a certain distance, according
to the traverse of the snail cam J, so will the toothed carrier E recede

page_text: from the needle hole shewn at N: When the cam J has been carried
round until the point J 3 passes the runner 12, the latter will fall off the
edge of the snail cam J, and by the action of the spring F be brought
suddenly home towards the needle. The toothed piece will carry with it
in the form of a fold, the material placed between it and the plate D,
meanwhile the other material passing between the plate D and the cloth
plate B, is carried onwards in the ordinary way by the feed mechanism
of the machine. The needle in its descent will take hold of the fold of
the plait as it is held in position by the toothed carrier, and as the cam J.
continues its traverse, the toothed carrier will recede from the needle
until it is again carried home by the spring as before. The parts are
adjustable by having star wheels of different numbers, or two or more
snail cams of different throws, as well as by the adjustable pin L.
I sometimes substitute a fine screw adjustable upon the shaft M with
the runner I 2, so arranged as to run up the thread of the screw until a.
stop lifts it out of contact with the scrow, when it would fly home and
again enter the screw.
In other arrangements I fix the spur wheel in such a position as to
bc actuated by the descent of the needle bar or needle arm, as the
case may be, in which case the shape of all the parts would have to be
modified.
I do not limit myself to the exact details herein set forth, but claim a
plait folder made substantially as herein described, and for any-form of
machine, but I do not claim the Invention of a plaiter, pure and simple,
or of the toothed piece.
Figure 17 is a view sufficient to shew my Invention of a new friller.
A is the plate of the machine (shewn in section); B is the usual serated
fceder; C is the band upon which the frill D is to be sewn; E is the
adjustable plate attached to a suitable body that will screw on to the bed.
of the machine in the place of the usual guide, and is adjustable by the 3
screw El; F is the needle; G is the usual presser foot, shewn in section:
also. The more the elevation of the plate E the greater will be the
amount of the frill held vertically under the front of the needle at D 1.
I claim as my Invention an adjustable plate elevating the frill in front
of the needle to make the frill on the upper side of the work, and more
or less full, as may be required.

page_text: The operation of this feed
Figures 8 and 18 represents my Invention for a silent feed operating
from the rocking arm of a machine. 'P is an adjusting screw fixed on
the arm R; upon the screw there is a traverse block S, connected to the
inclined or wedge piece T by a strap U; the wedge piece works in a
5 channel in the casting of the machine, and slides to and fro against a
corresponding incline upon the feed bar V.
mechanism is, the farther the traverse block is from the head of the
screw the longer will be the throw of the wedge T, and the longer.
the stitch; the nearer the block is to the head of the screw the shorter.
O will be the stitch. This stitch regulator may also be made with a
quadrant; and sometimes attached to the eccentric X, and by that means
I obtain an auxilary movement.
I claim as new the obtaining and regulating of a feed movement,
from the rocking arm or in combination with the connecting strap and
5 eccentric of a machine.
.
:
Figure 19 shews one form of my work holder. A is the head of a
machine; B, the bed plate; C, the work as it lies upon the plate; D.is
a flexible steel bow. with pointed end, forked or otherwise, held by a
screw D 1 to the head A. The pointed end is carried up to the presser
foot of the machine, and catches the fabric at C1; this spring carries.
the work from the needle, and in those machines driven by hand will:
bo of great utility. Another form would be similar to the parts marked
C, E, F, G, and H, in Figure 15, but operated the reverse way..
I claim as my Invention a work holder, for the purpose herein set
¡ forth.
Figures 20 and 21 represent my improved band check. A is the
casting; B, the screw to fix it to the machine; C is a steel lever with
fúlcrum at C1, held in position by the flexible spring D, D; it is so:
placed that the belt E will run freely in the aperture E1, and as the belt
travels in the proper direction the lever C is free, but when reversed the
leyer grips it fast in the aperture at A1. The finger pressed upon the
..lever, at C will at once release the belt; the spring D put on the lever.
at C will hold it free from the belt.
Figure 22 is one modification of this Invention. A is the belt; B, the
holder (shewn in section).; C is a roller of any suitable substance; D is
a slot for the centres of the roller (if required); E, E, screws to screw it:
to the table

page_text: Figure 23 is a check for a round strap. A is the belt; B, the funnel
(shewn in section); D, the india-rubber ring for gripping the belt; C
and E, flanges to prevent the rubber ring from coming out.

page_text: This Invention may also be applied with advantage to the wheel of a
gas engine in place of the clutch.
Having now described the several parts of my Invention, I wish it
distinctly understood, I do not claim those parts of different machines I
am compelled to shew for illustration, but only such parts as I have
described as new.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Moore Clements, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Thirtith day of July, One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.
JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS. (L.S.)