AN IMPROVED MODE OF MANUFACTURING WOVEN GOODS FIGURED ON BOTH SIDES
Year: 1847

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
MURDOCH, of No. 7, Staple Inn, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Nineteenth
day of June, One thousand eight hundred and forty-seven, in the tenth year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said James Murdoch, my exors, admors, and assigns, Her especial
licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said James
Murdoch, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, and such others as I, the said
James Murdoch, my exors, adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, the
Invention of "AN IMPROVED MODE OF MANUFACTURING WOVEN GOODS FIGURED
ON BOTH SIDES," being a communication from a certain Foreigner residing
abroad; in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said
James Murdoch, should cause a particular description of the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
by an instrument in writing, unler my hand and scal, to be inrolled in
Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in

page_text: and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
James Murdoch, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof.
The Invention consists in making figured fabrics faced on each side, that is,
without a back to the stuff either with the same pattern or design on each side,
but differently colored or with an entirely different design on each side.
Taken as a whole the Invention presents the employment of a double Jacquard
machine, a double draught, a double reading; in a word, the combination of a
loom with two ordináry Jacquard machines working by the same stroke of the
treadle. The new fabrics without backs may be produced, first, by two bodies
of mailes; second, by two bodies of mailes and two bodies of leashes, one
acting upwards and the other downwards; third, by two bodies of mailes and
one body of leashes acting upwards or downwards. When the loom is without
leashes it must be arranged in two bodies of mailes, each equal in number and
corresponding exactly, but independent of each other, so as to work separately
or togther, as the pattern may require. This requires the entering by one
maile taken on one body and one maile on the other body. When the loom
has two bodies of mailes and two bodies of leashes the two bodies of mailes
remain as before mentioned, corresponding to and independent of each other,
so that the threads which are passed upon the first body of mailes, and-which
act with it, can in no case pass upon and act with the second body
of mailes, and in like manner the threads which pass upon and which
work with the first body of leashes can in no case pass upon the work
with the second body of leashes; but the threads which are passed upon
and work with the first body of mailes should be repassed and work with
the first body of leashes, and the threads which are passed and work with the
second body of mailes should be repassed and work with the second body of
leashes. Each time that a maile, has several threads they should be passed
immediately upon the same body of leashes; and when the loom has two
bodies of mailes, and only one body of leashes, the body of leashes should only
be passed and act with one body of mailes. The making the draft to obtain
the same pattern on both sides of the fabric is effected as follows:-From one
to twenty colors are returned from each side of the stuff, either with or without
breaking off. Suppose a stuff of any kind has a set of ten following shuttles,
and consequently ten different colors, each of them will make pattern by the
same stroke upon each surface and upon the same part of the stuff; upon
.'
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page_text: the same cords there will be a reproduction of the same pattern and of the
same ten colors, so that a different shading will be produced upon each face;
in effect, the same objects will not have the same colors on each side of the
stuff; that which is red on one side may be blue on the other; so that the same
pattern will be produced upon each face of a figured stuff, shawl, curtain, &c.,
with such an arrangement of the colors as to completely change its character.
The making the draft to obtain a different pattern upon each face is effected
thus: The result is obtained without doubling the strokes; in effect, if the
stuff is worked with a set of ten following shuttles, more or less, they will pass
over both faces of the stuff, and in their passage will leave a different pattern
upon each, such as, for example, a Chinese pattern on one side and a Roman
pattern on the other, or any other dissimilar arrangement. According to the
places which the subjects of the pattern occupy, they may each either have or
not have the same number of colors; if, for example, the Chinese is produced
upon the two bodies by the same cords as the Roman (which is not necessarily
the case) they may each have five colors. But, instead of this, each may have
the ten colors of the weft employed in the composition of the stuff.
As an
example of the order in which the colors may be distributed upon the same
cords, if oue hundred cords have nine colors, making the pattern on the upper
face of the stuff, they may have one color making pattern or ground on the
lower face, or eight colors making pattern on the upper face and two
on the lower, or seven on the upper and three on the lower, or six on
the upper and four on the lower, or an equal number on each side, or
four upon the upper surface and six upon the lower, or three upon
the upper and seven on the lower, or two on the upper and eight
on the lower, or one on the upper, making a pattern or ground, and nine
on the lower, making pattern. By this order of distribution the ten colors
pass from the two sides of the stuff without a double set of shutes,. for each
color passes over the two faces of the staff at the same stroke or same card;
thus by this method of weaving there are ten colors working the pattern from
left to right of the stuff upon one face, whilst the same ten colors work
To obtain this result
the pattern from right to left upon the opposite face.
two painted sketches must first be prepared; upon each must be marked the
opposite requirements of each of them. Under the objects which require
most color must be placed those which require least; and we must go from the
extremes, that is from one to nine, to the middle, that is from five to five.
Having disposed the colors so as to avoid any repetition of the same colors
upon the same cords and the same strokes, the pattern may then be punched
on. the cards.

page_text: Making the Draft for the same Pattern to be worked on both Sides of the
Stuff. For this reproduction I proceed as follows:-Either upon suitable ruled
paper for shawls of cashmere patterns, or on ordinary draft paper for bangings
and other stuffs, the draft is made so as to produce exactly the effects seen
in the printed sketch, that is to say, the disposition of the colors and the shades,
resulting from their combination; and also to avoid everything which is faulty
in working. This first draft being completed, a second one must be produced
from it of different colors, copying cord by cord and stroke by stroke, and
transposing the colors as follows:-Suppose that the first draft has white,
yellow, blue, green, orange, rose, red, and chocolate, the second draft may be
formed by copying, by means of strokes and cords, in yellow, upon the second
draft, that which is white upon the first-in green, that which is blue-in rose,
that which is orange--and in chocolate, that which is red; thus the yellow takes
the place of the white and the white of the yellow, the green of the blue and
the blue of the green, and so on. This order of the transposition produces
upon each face of the stuff the same colours and the same pattern differently
shaded. The same result may be obtained by a single draft, whatever may be
the nature of the pattern and of the stuff, whether shawls, hangings, &c.; but
to this end the arrangement of the reading in must be performed so as to
carry over the colors to the second reading, as is done by the second draft.
Making the Draft to obtain a different Pattern on each Side of the Stuff.—
A different pattern on each side of the stuff, requires, as regards the draft, that
in no part of the sketches in the same spots there should be a repetition of the
same colors, and upon the draft that the same colors should not be reproduced
upon the same cords of the two sets and upon the same stroke.
Reading in of two Drafts having the same Design.-The first draft corre-
sponds to the first body of mailes, and the second draft to the second body of
mailes. If it is supposed there are four colors, red, yellow, blue, and green,
the following will be the "reading" of a set of shutes; read the red of the
first draft, and the yellow, blue, and green, upon the second draft. Second
shute, read the yellow of the first draft and the blue, green, and red of the
second draft. Third shute, read the blue of the first draft, and the green, red,
and yellow of the second draft. Fourth shute, read the green of the first
draft, and the red, the yellow, and the blue of the second, and so on for each
set of shutes.
Reading in of a single Draft so as to obtain the Effect of Two Drafts.―
To effect this abbreviation it is requisite, at the second reading of the same

page_text: draft, to read a different color from that which really appears on the draft, so
as to transpose the colors amongst themselves, and thus avoid any repetition of
the same color upon the same cords of the two bodies and upon the same
stroke; thus, read black upon the second reading what was read white upon
the first, and so transposing each color of the pattern.
Reading in two Drafts having a different Pattern upon each.-Suppose two
different patterns having the same four colors of red, black, lilac, and yellow,
the reading of one set of shutes will be as follows:-The first draft corresponds
to the first body of mailes, and the second draft to the second set of mailes.
First shute, read the red of the first draft and the black, lilac, and yellow of the
second draft. Second shute, read the black of the first draft, and the lilac,
yellow, and red of the second. Third shute, read the lilac of the first draft, and
the red, yellow, and black of the second. Fourth shute, read the yellow of the
first draft, and the red, black, and lilac of the second, and so on in succession
for each set of shutes of the pattern. Such is the mode of reading in by which
the movement of the wefts is effected. That for the "ties" will be considered
in their place.
Passage of the Weft over both Sides of the Stuff by the same Stroke.-
It is necessary to keep in view the separate functions (setting aside the
"tyeing") and the co-ordination of the parts of which the whole is composed.
The Loom. The loom has a first and a second body, and the cords which
operate upon the one operate equally upon the other in the same parts.
The Draft.-A first draft is made which corresponds to the first body, and
a second draft corresponding to the second body, and the same color never
meets at the same place of the two drafts upon the same cords, and upon the
same stroke; the cords which rise in the first draft rise at the same stroke in
the second draft.
Reading in. At each stroke the color read from the first draft remains in
ground on the second, and the colors read from the second remain in ground
on the first. Such are the principal elements and the principal operations for.
preventing any wrong results. By these combinations the cords read upon one
body are also read upon the other, and those which remain in the ground in
the first body remain likewise in the ground in the second body; consequently,
the weft, meeting no obstacle, passes over and under the stuff at the same
stroke.
Reading a Stroke. As the same color never meets in the same place on
both drafts, it follows that, by causing one color to be read upon the first draft.

page_text: and all the other colors upon the second draft, except that which has been
read upon the first, the same cords of both bodies must of necessity rise, since
on the second draft the color which remains in ground is not on the cords which
rise on the first, and then the weft passes under to make pattern, and thence
returns to bury itself in the warp of the first body (which has not been read,
and which consequently remains in ground), and that of the second body
which has raised all the colors remaining in ground on the first body; and the
weft, after having passed beneath, and having been hidden between the two
warps, passes above in all the parts of the second draft which have not been
read, because the first body, being in ground under the unread parts of the
second body, the weft is forced to flush above the stuff.
Series of "Ties" in Fabrics without Backs.-Whatever be the number if
hooks in the machine, from two hundred to three thousand, and even more,
and whatever may be the width of the stuff, from two inches to six feet and
upwards, the "ties," in this process of manufacturing fabrics without backs,
are executed upon two bodies of mailes and three bodies of leashes, cach of
which have or may have different and peculiar functions, and are capable of
acting on the same stroke both on the rise and the fall. According as the
stuff may require, the three bodies of leashes may together produce one same
tie, or three different ties; but the three bodies of ties acting as one produces
greater regularity. When the ties are effected by the bodies of mailes, they
may act either on the rise or the fall, and produce by the simultaneous
repetition of the bodies a single tie or a multiplicity of ties, differing more or
less from each other; but when they are in operation their action excludes
the motion of one or two of the bodies of leashes, their action on the rise or
on the fall, both of which tie the shutes, render useless the rising leashes, if
they act on the rise, and the falling leashes if they act on the fall; and they
render useless both these bodies of leashes if they themselves act both on the
rise and on the fall. Such are the general movements of the tyeing bodies.
Analysis of the Functions of each of them, excepting the Ground Stroke.
Tyeing up leashes in rising and in falling.-When the leashes act both in
rising and in falling, their function is the work of the small machine, upon the
cards of which is pricked all the ties of the leashes; this tyeing up of the
leashes may be different on each face of the stuff, but it cannot be irregular
on either face.
Tyeing up of Leashes acting irregularly in rising and in falling, and Result
of the irregular Movements of their Functions.-The object of the action of
the leashes being the tyeing, whenever they are inactive they tie nothing, and
hence, by their acting irregularly, some of the wefts may be made to flush;

page_text: whilst the others are tied; thus, in arranging the ground cards of the small
machine for this purpose, the whole of the shutes may be tied below and above
the stuff, as in like manner they may be tied below and flushed above, or tied
above and flushed below. the stuff, or we may tie or may flush a portion or the
whole of the wefts shot upon one or both faces of the fabric.
Substitution of the Bodies of Mailes for the Two Bodies of Leashes which tie
the Shutes. In order that the ties of the rise and of the fall which tie the
shutes should be executed by the bodies of mailes, they must be pricked on the
pattern cards, then the ground cards of the small machine only acts for the
ground strokes. This transposition of the tyeing bodies offers in certain cases
the decided advantage of having floating shutes, and with that the advantage
of very long ties, whose points (as imperceptible as those of the leashes) do not
change the colors upon which they rest.
"Two Sets of Leashes tyeing on each Face of a Fabric having the same
Design. This comes under the class of free tyeing, and we are restricted to
regularity or irregularity, and have only to study the requirements of the
pattern. The tyeing should be painted upon the second draft with a different
color from that which covers the paper.
The reading of a stroke is as follows:-Suppose that the subjects painted
red upon the first draft are copied stroke for stroke and cord for cord in green
upon the second draft. We must read the red of the first draft, whilst on the
second we must read all the colors except the red, as well as all the black
points which rest upon the objects painted green, so that the red which has
been read is tied by the points remaining in the ground upon the green spaces
of the second draft, whilst the red of this second draft which has been lying
in the ground is tied by the black points which have risen.
Of the Two Sets of Mailes tyeing upon each Side of the Stuff a different
Design. When a different design is to be read upon each face of the stuff by
means of the bodies of mailes, in order to obtain floating shutes, long ties, and
an irregular arrangement of the ties, which could not be obtained by the
leashes, it becomes necessary, for the purity of the colours tied) that the two
bodies of mailes be entered by a single thread, otherwise the points of the
tyeing being double or triple upon one or upon both of the two bodies would
absorb the freshness of each tint upon one or both of the faces of the stuff.
The drafts in this case differ; each has its design and its shades produced by.
the mixture of different colored wefts and the black tics differ or äre älike
according as the work requires.
The Reading. We must read the red of the first draft, and leave in the
ground the black points which tie it, whilst upon the second draft we must

page_text: read all the colours except the red. By this order of reading the black points
lying in the ground on the cords which have been read from the first draft
tie the red, and upon the second draft the black points which have been
raised tie the red which lay in the ground, so that by the contrary motion in
the operation of the two bodies (here as in the tyeing by the mailes in the
preceding case) the points are not doubled either above or below the stuff,
because the cord of the second body which corresponds to that of the first
rises if the other lies in the ground, and they each effect a contrary move-
ment in all the opposite functions.
Mailes and Leashes acting as Ties upon the same Stroke.-When the body
or bodies of mailes act on both the rise and fall, and tie each face of the stuff,
they render useless the two bodies of leashes which tie the shutes, as already
explained; likewise the functions may be divided between the bodies of mailes
and the bodies of leashes; that is to say, the leashes may tie the lower face of
the stuff whilst the mailes may tie the upper face, and vice versa, without any
inconvenience resulting from this division or transpositions of the functions.
In these latter details I have not considered as ties those of which the object
is not so much to interrupt the flushes of weft as to constitute the shading of
the outline by the absorption of the colors which is got by the introduction of
tints of light and of shade by the imperceptible mixture of the color and by the
opposition of their contrast. This latter tying virtually gives form to the
designs with which the stuff is ornamented. Its tendency is to appear whilst
the tendency of the other tyeings is to be latent, so that they can, without
injuring the freshness of the tints, tie silk, cotton, wool, cordonnet, chenille,―in
a word, all fancy stuffs which may be desired to have two faces may be tied by
them, excepting gauze.
Of the Relation which exists between the Sets of Mailes and the Sets of
Leashes. The mailes have a direct relation between them, inasmuch as that
the threads which are passed in a body of mailes are repassed in a body of
leashes, only the operation of the one does not hinder that of the other, and
when the pattern causes the mailes to act for the ornamenting of the tissue the
tie of tie leashes causes them to tie it.
Relations existing between the Two Sets of Mailes and the Two Sets of
Leashes. The two bodies of mailes act together to make the under side the
middle and the upper side of the stuff, but each body of leashes can only
operate to the one face of the stuff.
Relations subsisting between the Two Drafts.-These relations arise out of
the order of the colors, which is common to both, and unites them for one
same purpose..

page_text: Relations subsisting between each Draft and each Body of Mailes. Each
draft being appropriated to one body of mailes, the relations between them
arise from the reading in, which causes the first draft to be executed
upon the first body, and the second draft upon the second body; hence,
the first draft works with the first body, and the second draft with the second
body.
Relations subsisting between the Two Drafts and the Two Bodies of Mailes.
-The two bodies of mailes being equal in number and independent in their
action, and the two drafts having in no part a reproduction of the same color
or colors upon the same cord and the same stroke, the reading of the first draft
being precisely the inverse of that of the second, it follows that when one color
is read upon the first body, and that it alone is reserved upon the second, the
weft passes between the two bodies, then below the two bodies, then above the
two bodies, where it is tied by leashes or mailes. The weft passes between the
two bodies because, in raising upon the first body a color which alone is
excepted on the second draft, and the same color never appearing at the same
stroke on the corresponding cords of each of them, it follows that the weft
passes over the parts of the first body which remain in ground, and under the
parts of the second body which have risen. The weft passes under the two
bodies, because, in raising upon the first draft a color which alone is excepted
upon the second draft, and the same colors never meeting at the same stroke
upon the corresponding cords of each of them, it follows that the color read
upon the first draft, and which alone is excepted upon the second draft, not
being on the cords of either, is read upon each, and that the two bodies rise;
hence the weft, meeting no obstacle, passes below the stuff to produce an effect.
The weft passes over the two bodies in performing the reverse movement of
that which causes it to pass under the two bodies. Thus, from what has been
said it will be seen that the first body of mailes, the first body of leashes, the
first draught, and the first reading are directly connected together, and that the
second set of mailes, the second body of leashes, the second draft, and the
second reading, are likewise directly connected together; and, finally, that the
combination of the methods of working shews two Jacquard machines arranged
as has been described and acting as one loom, and producing, by throwing the
shuttle from left to right or from right to left, a stuff having a single body
figured on both sides.
It now remains to be explained how the union of these two surfaces is
effected so as to form a single body. This union might be made by a lost
shute upon a cross of threads fixed by the weft, as is done in common weaving,
when it is required to join two stuffs; and, on the other hand, it may be made

page_text: in several different ways without making a lost shute. But as each of these
methods require some modifications in certain of the proceedings which have
been described, I have thought it better to treat of it in a separate section. I
may, however, observe generally, that this union is effected in the improved
process by all the strokes in that one of the two parts in which each weft
disappears between the two pieces, so that each of these unseen parts, instead
of being useless, as in the method of a lost shute, serves to join the two stuffs,
and render it unnecessary to employ a weft exclusively for this purpose. This
union of the stuffs is made in several ways without a lost shute, as firstly, by
the crossing of the bodies held by the weft at each stroke upon one of the
colors when the weft disappears; secondly, by an internal tyeing which acts at
each stroke upon a color where the weft disappears in the inverse direction of
the color upon which they lie; and thirdly (but only for stuffs with only two
shuttles, by causing each weft to be tied by both bodies at once, or alternately
at each set of shutes by each of them..
First Method:-Conditions to be observed in the union of the stuffs from
one object to another by the crossing of the bodies on a loom with mailes and
leashes, the mailes being fixed or held by the weft:-As regards the making
the draft, it must be observed, that as the two bodies of leashes tie the outside
no tie must be taken upon either draft. As regards the reading in and
entering, they should be performed in the following order:-When the falling
leashes are entered upon the first body of mailes, and the rising leashes are
entered on the second body of mailes, the first body must rise at each shute
upon one of the colors in which the weft is buried between the two stuffs, and
the second body must remain in ground at each shute upon the color corre
sponding to that which rises at the first stroke in the part where the weft is
buried between the two stuffs. This being the case, the rising and falling
leashes act at each stroke upon the color, which fixes the crossing of the
bodies. Their tyeing being in the inverse direction of the positions they hold,
the falling leashes which tie the lower figure take their threads over the weft
hidden in the preceding stroke, and return them below to tie the figure, which
is made there, and the rising leashes which tie the upper figure take their
threads below the weft hidden or lost in the preceding stroke, and bring them
back above to tie the figure which is made there, so that each weft produces
three effects, one below the stuff, one above the stuff, and one between the stuff;
which is to prepare in those places, when the weft is hidden, the crossing which
is effected on the following body by the movement of the leashes which tie the
figure produced at each stroke upon some part of the weft hidden between the
two pieces. As has been seen, the crossing is not definitive for each part, the

page_text: weft being hidden, except when the figure abuts upon it, becauses then the
leashes for tyeing the figure, which is made upon the said wefts, cross them
and determine the figure.
Second Method.-Conditions requisite for the union of the two stuffs by the
crossing of the bodies on a, loom having mailes only:-Each draft must have a
tie of a different color from that on the draft to tie the outside of the stuff, in
order to replace the two sets of leaves, but that requires that the tyeing
for the first set-should be connected with it only, and that the tyeing for the
second set should be connected with it only. The drafts being thus disposed,
the union of the stuffs is effected in causing each weft to describe the move-
ment indicated by that of the loon, with mailes and leashes before mentioned ;
the set of leashes which tie the under face of the stuff must rise at each shute
upon one of the colors where the weft is buried between the two stuffs, and
the body of mailes which tie the upper face of the stuff must remain in
ground at each shute upon one of the colors where the weft is buried. between
the two pieces. This being the case, the body of mailes which tie the lower
face of the stuff, and that which ties the upper face, take upon each stroke
upon the color which prepares the crossing of the bodies, their tyeing in the
inverse direction to the position they hold; the body which ties the figure on
the upper surface takes its threads under the lost wefts of the preceding
strokes, and brings it back above, to tie the figure which is being formed
there; so that in this method of uniting the stuffs, as in the preceding one,
each weft produces three effects, similar to those already described, with the
exception that the crossing is effected by the threads of each body, and the
tyeing of the mailes as well as that of the leashes crosses that of the weft, and
determines the union of the two stuffs, as has been already said with respect
to the first method.
Third Method.-Union of the two stuffs made at each stroke by some
points taken upon a color, and not by the color itself, as before described,
on a loom with mailes and leashes:-Each draft must have a tie, painted of a
different color from that of the subjects represented, in order to bring the two
stuffs together. As regards the reading, the tyeing alone produces a variation,
which consists in bringing into action at each stroke in one of the parts where
the weft disappears between the two pieces the tyeing points which are upon
one of the colors, in the inverse direction of the color on which it lies, and
that being repeated until the end of each set of shutes taking at each stroke
the ties only which are upon a different color, the two stuffs are united
throughout.

page_text: Fourth Method.-Union of the two stuffs at each stroke by points taken
upon one of the colors which disappear between the two pieces:-Each draft
must have two ties, an exterior tie which ties each face of the stuff, and an
interior tie which unites the two stuffs. The exterior tie may be different
upon each draft, but the interior tie must be exactly alike upon each in so far
as that they should correspond, but in no case should they meet upon the same
points, that is to say, upon the same stroke and the same cords upon each
draft. There is no change in the external ties, as explained, at the beginning
of this description; as for the internal ties, they are the same as those before
described in the third method. In fact, whenever the stuffs are brought
together by corresponding points upon each cord of each draft, it is because
they act at each stroke in the inverse direction of the color upon which they
repose.
.
Whichever of these four methods may be employed for uniting stuffs having
the same or different designs upon each face or on each stuff, an equal or an
unequal number of shutes, the corresponding cords in each draft must act in
the reverse direction upon one or upon many colors in the parts where each
weft disappears between the two stuffs, for this union of the stuffs is always
effected by a crossing of threads which is fixed by the weft.
Fifth Method. This method is only applicable to stuffs having two wefts.
In order to make stuffs without backs with two wefts producing pattern and
ground alternately one without the other, and uniting the stuffs into one web
without employing a lost shute, there are two twin processes. The first
consists in causing each shute to tie, both above and below the stuff, for both
bodies at once, by taking one point of the tie upon one set, and the next point
upon the other set; for example, for a satin of eight lams, taking the first point
upon the first cord of the first set, the second point upon the eighth cord of
the second set, the third point upon the sixteenth cord of the first set, and the
fourth point upon the twenty-fourth cord of the second set, and so on for the
rest. The second method consists in tyeing the two wefts once by one set,
and the two following wefts once by the other set, and so on in succession.
Before summing up the different points which constitute the Invention, I
will here mention an improvement upon the means herein-before described of
hiding the warp by employing an uneven number of shutes when the same
design is produced on each side of the stuff. It must be recollected that the g
warp appeared because replacing the colors by twos,-that is to say, the black
replacing the white and the white the black, and so on for the rest of the
colors, it followed that on arriving at the end of the set of shutes the odd
.

page_text: color which terminated it could not be replaced by another weft, consequently
in this case the warp must necessarily appear. To obviate this inconvenience
all that is requisite is that each color shall replace two others, so that each
color shall be once above and once underneath, and that they shall replace
each other; thus, if we suppose a series of red, yellow, and blue repeated, the
red is above the blue and below the yellow, the yellow is above the red and
below the blue, and the blue is above the yellow and below the red. To
effect this arrangement of colors on the stuff no change in the loom as
described is requisite; it is sufficient that the draught be so planned as to
produce the effect.
Having thus described the nature of the Invention which constitutes the
subject of my Patent, and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I
proceed to state what are the points which I claim in relation thereto. I
claim,―
First, the making of stuffs without backs, for shawls, hangings, and other
purposes, having two figured surfaces, without doubling the materials, and
forming a single fabric by means of the construction of the loom; the arrange-
ment of the draft and the reading in, as herein-before described.
Secondly, making the said stuffs, either with an entirely different design
upon each face, or with the same design in different colors, as herein-before
described.
Thirdly, producing in this kind of manufacture of stuffs without backs
a great saving in the wefts, more especially for cachmere shawls, by the
absence of ground strokes (the ground being made by one of the shutes
of the set, and tied by the rising and falling leashes which tie the set of
shutes, as herein-before described.
Fourthly, for the purpose of manufacturing stuffs figured on both sides
in the manner herein-before described, the employment of a double Jacquard
loom, that is to say, a combination of a loom with two Jacquard machines
working together by the same stroke of the treadle, as herein-before described.
Fifthly, the combining together, in the manner herein-before described, the
bodies of mailes, the bodies of leashes, the draft and the reading, so that the two
sets of parts shall, upon the same stroke of the treadle, either work together or
one after the other, or (as regards the Figure) shall act in opposite directions,
the one to the other.
Sixthly, employing for the same application two equal and independent
bodies of mailes (in order to be able to work either together or separately),
with or without leashes, according to the kind of stuff, as herein-before
described.

page_text: Seventhly, causing the threads which are to act with one body of leashes to
act. with one body of mailes, and the threads which act with the other body of
leashes to act with the other body of mailes, making the body of leashes to act
with only one body of mailes when there is only one body of leashes to the two
bodies of mailes, as herein-before described.
Eighthly, the employment of a double draft drawn up in the manner
herein-before described for the purpose of ranging the colors in the order
herein-before described, according as the same or a different design on the
two sides.
Ninthly, the mode herein-before described of reading in or transferring the
design to the cards.'
Tenthly, the methods herein-before described of making the "ties."
. Eleventhly, the methods herein-before described of uniting the upper to
the under figured surface, so as that the two shall constitute a single fabric.
Twelfthly, connecting each draft with its body of mailes, so as by
the reading in to cause the first body to execute what is on the first
draft and the second body what is on the second draft, as herein-before
described.
.
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Thirteenthly, establishing a connection in the manner herein-before described
between the two bodies of mailes on the one part and the two drafts on the
other part, so as to cause the warp to pass according to the draft below between
as above the two bodies.
Fourteenthly, establishing a connection between each body of mailes and
the corresponding body of leashes through which the same threads pass,
which, being entered in a body of mailes, are entered in a body of leashes,
so that the operation of the one in nowise restrains the operation of
the other, and that when the design causes the mailes to ornament the
stuff ties of the leashes, causes them to tie the pattern produced, as herein-
before described.
Fifteenthly, causing the weft to make as it were three movements, whereby
the manufacture of stuffs without backs is effected; videlicet, one to pass under-
neath. (or on the side of the stuff), a second that it may disappear between:
the two parts, and a third to pass over" (or one side of the stuff)-a triple.
movement, producing at the same time two faces, and the union of the two.
warps, as herein-before described.
Sixteenthly, dispensing with a special or additional groundstroke beyond
what is required in the usual way of working, the ground being made amongst
the colors of the shutes; as herein-before described.
Seventeenthly, producing patterns on the warp whether there be the same or

page_text: a different pattern on each side of the stuff whenever the warps upon any part
of the stuff (either upon one or both sides at once) are not covered by the
weft on one side in the same way as on the other, as herein-before described.
Such are in substance the principles, means, and processes connected with
the employment of two sets of mailes, double drafts, and two warps, by means
of which are obtained effects and results which have before been sought but
without success, or at best have been but partially and incompletely attained,
and that by modes of operating based upon principles and combinations alto-
gether different from those which constitute the Invention that forms the
subject of my Patent, and which are herein above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Murdoch, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-seven.
JAMES (L.S.) MURDOCH.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Eighteenth day of December,
in the year of our Lord 1847, the aforesaid James Murdoch came before
our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Speci-
fication aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified,
in form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped
according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Eighteenth day of December, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-seven.