Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Rec., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 25th Oct., 1894-Accepted, 8th Dec., 1894
TRUY IDIO
[Communicated from abroad by LINCOLN SEWING MACHINE Co., of Exeter,
New Hampshire, United States of America, Manufacturers.]
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent
Agents, 45 Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
"
This invention relates to sewing machines, and particularly to that class of
Bewing machine in which a chain stitch is made by means of a hook-needle. The
invention has been embodied in a machine specially intended to be used for
sewing together the sole and the upper in the process of making "turned shoes
and for sewing together the inner sole, the upper, and the welt, in the process of
making "welted shoes." The machine has "needle feed"; that is to say, the
work is moved along by a lateral movement of the needle.
a
The thread is laid into the throat of the needle by a looper so timed in its
operation as to thread the needle while the needle is making its lateral or feeding
movement.
The delivery of thread is controlled by a frictional tension device which is
automatically intermittent; that is to say, the machine applies frictional resistance
to the tension device and removes frictional resistance from the tension device, at
the proper times during the making of each stitch. The tension device is adjustable
as to the amount of frictional resistance applied and as to the time of its application
and removal.
The connection between the machine and the revolving shaft which drives it is
controlled by a treadle operating a friction-clutch or other suitable device arranged
in the usual and well known manner. An important feature of the invention is
that this treadle is also connected to certain parts of the sewing machine, so that
the same movement of the treadle which starts the machine (by connecting it with
the power) also brings certain parts of the machine into proper operative position
with respect to the shoe before the machine starts, and the same movement of the
treadle which stops the machine (by disconnecting it from the power) also brings
certain parts into such position as facilitates the removal of the shoe from the
machine.
The parts of the machine which are thus connected are the tension-mechanism
and the "back gauges."
"
When the treadle is in position to cause the machine to run, the tension
mechanism is controlled by the machine. When the treadle is in position to cause
the machine to stop running, the connection between the treadle and the tension
mechanism removes the frictional resistance from the tension mechanism.
The back-gauges (of which there are commonly two on each machine) are those
parts against which the "upper" of the shoe is pressed during the sewing operation.
"welt-holder" or
When a welt is to be sewed on, one of the back-gauges is made a
"welt-guide."
When the treadle is in position for the machine to stand still, the back-gauges
are drawn back by the connection between them and the treadle.
The first part of the motion of the treadle into position to start the machine,
releases the back-gauges from the control of the treadle and gives them up to the
control of the machine, which, when in operation, moves them forward and

page_text: backward and locks them in position and releases them according to the
requirements of the work.
Dated this 27th day of December 1893.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent
Agents, 45 Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention relates to sewing machines, more especially to
66 wax thread
sewing machines and particularly to machines used in the manufacture of
"turned" or "welt shoes to sew the uppers, soles and welts together.
In my improved machine a hook needle and a looper are used to form a chain
stitch, and the stock being sewed is fed by a lateral movement of the needle.
The object of the invention broadly is to improve the various devices which
constitute the machine and thereby increase the case with which the machine is
run. More particularly, the objects of the invention are as follows, viz., to provide
means to automatically release and renew the tension on the thread at the desired
part or parts of the formation of the stitch, thus preventing any unnecessary
tension on the thread while being passed either through the needle, the stock or
clsewhere which would tend to rupture the thread or cord, or cut the stock; also
to provide means whereby the tension is automatically released, by the stopping,
and renewed or brought into condition to be renewed by the starting of the
machine also to provide means to automatically withdraw the back gauges from
contact with the stock by the stopping of the machine thus facilitating the removal
of the stock from or the placing of the stock upon the machine into proper position
to be sewed.
The invention consists in the employment of various elements and combinations
of elements hereinafter fully described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings which show a sewing machine embodying the invention.
Fig. 1 represents a side elevation of the bead of the machine and a portion of
the standard as seen from the right of the same.
Fig. 2 represents the opposite side elevation of the head of the machine to that
shown in Fig. 1 showing a section of the shaft and the hub of the driving pulley.
Fig. 3 represents a rear view of the head of the machine.
Fig. 4 represents a detail view of the needle, and its operating mechanism, and
also of the looper and its operating mechanism.
Fig. 5 represents the needle and looper in different positions from those shown in
Fig. 4.
Fig. 6 represents a section on the line - in Fig. 4, the arrow heads on the
line indicating the direction in which it is viewed.
Fig. 7 represents a section on the line y-y in Fig. 4, the arrow heads on the
line indicating the direction in which it is viewed.
Fig. 8 represents a substantially horizontal longitudinal section over the welt
guide, the back gauge and the lock to intermittingly hold the back gauge against
a longitudinal movement in its bearing in the frame when pressed against by the
boot or shoe while being sewed.
Fig. 9 represents a detail view of the cam, lever, and connecting rod which
operate the back gauge.

page_text: Fig. 10 represents a horizontal section through the base of the head of the.
machine showing the auxiliary back gauge and the lock to intermittingly hold the
gauge from moving longitudinally in its bearing in the frame when pressed against
by the boot or shoe while being sewed.
Fig. 11 represents a substantially horizontal section of the tension wheel, the
means used to release the tension on the thread and showing a part of the yielding
take up in plan view.
Fig. 12 represents a section through the joint between the two levers included in
the mechanism employed to automatically pull the lasting tacks from the boots or
shoes while they are being sewed.
Fig. 13 represents a detail front elevation of the mechanisms employed to cause
the feeding of the boot or shoe while being sewed and to allow the adjustment of
the length of stitch to be made, also the tension wheel and the yielding take up.
Fig. 14 represents the cam and lever which operate the automatic tension
release.
Fig. 15 represents a rear view of the base of the standard of the machine
showing the counter shaft from which the machine receives its motion and
connection with the treadle of the back gauge welt guide and tension release.
The same letters and figures refer to the same parts wherever they occur on the
different parts of the drawings.
The machine is provided with a suitable standard 1 upon which the head of the
machine is mounted. The head has a suitable frame 2 for the support of the several
parts included in the head which may be made in one piece or in several pieces but
preferably in more than one piece as shown on the drawings, and in bearings in
the frame is mounted the driving shaft 3. Upon the driving shaft is rigidly
mounted the grooved driving pulley 4, its balance wheel 5, and the cams 6 and 7.
A rotary motion, in the direction of the arrows shown is imparted to the driving
shaft from the grooved pulley 8 on the counter shaft 9 by means of the belt or
cord 10 as shown in Fig. 15. The pulley 8 is movable longitudinally and loosely
mounted upon the counter shaft 9. A friction disc 11 is firmly attached to and
rotates with the counter shaft being provided on its face with a disc 12 of leather
or other suitable material. The counter shaft is mounted in suitable bearings 13, 13
on the standard 1 and is kept in a rotary motion by means of a belt on the pulley 14.
A shaft 15 arranged at right angles to the counter shaft is mounted in bearings in
the standard and is provided at its forward end with the treadle lever 16 having
attached treadle 17 as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 15 and at the rear end said
shaft is provided with the forked lever 18 the forked end of which embraces the
counter shaft and is moved lengthwise of the shaft by the operation of the trea lle.
A sleeve 19 is mounted and movable longitudinally upon the counter shaft being
located between the forked end of the lever 18 and the hub of the pulley 8. The
sleeve 19 is limited in its longitudinal movement on the shaft by means of a pin 20
screwed into the counter shaft through a perforation 21 in the sleeve. The said
perforation has a larger diameter than the pin. A lever 22 is firmly mounted on
the shaft 15 being connected at its outer end to the vertical rod 23, as shown in
Fig. 15, for a purpose to be hereinafter described. A spring 24 is attached to the
rod 23 and to the standard the tendency of said spring being to cause the rod to
be held downward and consequently the treadle 17 to be raised.
It will be seen that when the treadle is depressed as shown on the drawing it
will cause the forked lever 18 to exert a pressure on the pulley 8 moving it longi-
tudinally on the shaft thereby causing sufficient friction between the friction disc
and the pulley to cause said pulley to rotate with the shaft and consequently
convey a rotary motion to the driving shaft 3 by means of the belt 10.
The machine is provided with a needle and operating mechanism, a looper and
operating mechanism therefor, a feeding mechanism, a tension device, a tension
release, a take up, means to guide and support the work while being sewn, and a
tack puller attachment to remove the lasting-tacks ahead of the needle to prevent
the breaking of the needle as is common with all machines in this class, but in this

page_text: machine such devices have been improved by the use of new elements and com-
binations of elements as will be hereinafter fully set forth. 'The several mechanisms
which are employed in the machine will be described separately.
In this machine the needle and its operating mechanism is constructed as
follows:
In one side of the cam 6 is cut a cam groove 25 shown in dotted lines in Figs. 3
and 4 which operates upon the roll 26 on the needle lever 27 causing said lever to
'oscillate intermittingly on its fulcrum 28. To the lower end of the needle lever is
pivoted the connecting rod or bar 29. The pivotal connection between the needle
lever and the connecting rod 29 is so arranged that the connecting rod is free to
slide toward or from the needle lever on said pivot as shown in Fig. 7 for a purpose
as will be hereafter described. The opposite end of the connecting rod to that
which is attached to the needle lever is pivotally attached to the needle block 30
which block is itself pivotally attached to and capable of oscillation on the pin or
bolt 31 in the bracket 32 projecting forward from the slide 33, said slide being
capable of reciprocation in the guide grooves 34, 34, ou the frame 2 for a purpose
to be hereinafter fully described in relation to the feeding mechanism. The free
end of block 30 is guided in its movements on its fulcrum in a circular guide
groove 35 shown in Fig. 6 and in dotted lines in Figs. 4 and 5 in the forward end
of the bracket 32. To the needle block is firmly attached the hooked, curved
needle 36.
The operation of the cam 25 upon the roll 26 on the needle lever and the
connection of the needle lever with the needle block causes the block and its
attached needle to oscillate ou the pin or bolt 31 and the needle to perforate and
withdraw from the material being sewed.
A bell crank lever 37 forming a needle guide is mounted and free to turn upon
the pin or bolt 31. The lower end of this guide is perforated and receives the
needle, guiding supporting and properly directing it when perforating the leather
or other material being sewed. The upper end of the needle guide moves against
the surface of the bracket 32. A spring 38 acts upon the needle guide to cause
the upper end of the same to rest against the pin or stop 39 projecting from the
bracket 32 but as the needle block turns upon its fulerum a projection 40 on the
needle block engages the upper end of the needle guide forcing it forward and
prevents the needle from being withdrawn from the guide when in its extreme
backward position.
The looper and its operating mechanism is constructed as follows:
.
The cam 6 is provided with a cam groove 41 on the opposite side to where the
cam groove for the needle lever is cut. The cam groove 41 operates on the roll 42
on the looper lever 43 causing the lever to oscillate on its fulcrum 44 on the frame
of the head of the machine. To this lever is connected the connecting rod 45 by
means of a ball and socket joint or by any other suitable universal joint, the
opposite end of the connecting rod being pivotally connected to the stud or bolt 46
which stud or bolt is pivoted to one arm of a bell crank lever 47 pivotally attached
to the forward part of the frame 2. The opposite arm of the bell-crank lever to
where the connecting rod 45 is connected is provided with gear teeth and forms the
bevel sector gear 48. The sector gear 48 meshes into the bevel pinion 49 mounted
on the hollow shaft 50 which is free to rotate in its bearing in the front of the
frame 2. The shaft 50 is prevented from moving longitudinally in its bearing by
means of the pinion 49 and the collar 51 on the lower end of the shaft in which
collar is securely held the looper proper 52 having a perforation 53 shown in dotted
lines in Figs. 1, 2, 4 and 5, through which the thread or cord used in sewing
passes.
The operation of the cam 41 upon the roll 42 on the looper lever and the
connection between the looper lever and the looper causes the hollow shaft and its
connected looper to be intermittingly rotated in opposite directions around the end
of the needle as it projects through the material being sewed. This intermittingly
rotating movement of the looper causes the formation of the loop upon the needle

page_text: and in connection with the intermittingly oscillating movement of the'nčedle forms
the stitches through the material being sewed.
The feeding of the work being sewed is accomplished by the following
mechanism.
The cam 6 is provided on its edge with the cam groove 54 which acts upon the
roll 55 on the feed lever 56 causing said lever to intermittingly oscillate on its
fulcrum 57 in the frame 2. The lever 56 is provided with the longitudinal
groove 58 as shown in Figs. 1, 3 and 13. The slide 33 which is movable crosswise
of the frame 2 in the guide grooves 34 is provided with the vertical slot 59 within
which the pin or stud 60 is adjustable up or down and held in its adjusted position
by means of the nut 61. The block 62 is mounted on the stud 60 and moves in
the groove 58 in the lever 56 when the stud is adjusted or the lever is turned
on its fulcrum. This connection of the lever 56 to the slide 33 causes the slide
to be intermittingly reciprocated within its guide grooves and as the needle
block with its attached needle are mounted upon the bracket 32 extending from the
slide, the needle will receive the same reciprocating movement.
It will be understood that the amount of the reciprocations of the slide 33 and
consequently the amount of the feeding of the work may be varied by the adjust-
ment of the stud in the slot, that is to say, the feeding of the work is increased by
the adjustment of the stud downward in the slot and decreased by the adjustment
in the opposite direction. During the reciprocating movements of the needle and
the slide the connecting rod slides towards and from the needle lever on the pivotal
and sliding connection between said parts above mentioned in relation to the needle
operating mechanism.
The operation of the feeding mechanism is as follows:
With the slide 33 and feed lever in the position shown in Fig. 13, the cam
groove 54 causes the slide and its attached needle to move towards the right of the
machine while the needle still remains in the position shown in Fig. 4. After the
slide reaches the end of its movement towards the right it then remains stationary
for a short time. The needle is then moved forward and pierces the work being
sewed. The needle while still in the work is caused to be moved towards the left
of the machine by the feed cam and carries with it the work being sewed. This
movement constitutes the amount of feed between the formation of successive
stitches and therefore determines the length of the stitch.
The tension on the thread or cord used in sewing the boots, shoes, or other work
to be sewed is caused by the following mechanism.
The stud or pin 63 screwed into or otherwise firmly attached to the frame of the
head of the machine is screw threaded on its outer end substantially as shown.
Upon the stud next to the frame is placed the felt or other friction producing
washer 64 and next to said washer is placed the tension wheel 65 which is provided
with a V shaped annular groove to receive the thread or cord used in sewing. The
tension wheel is preferably provided with a series of perforations 66, 66, which
extend at right angles to the V shaped groove in said wheel having the inner
surface of the perforations substantially coincident with the inner part of the
V-shaped groove substantially as shown in Fig. 11. The second felt or friction
producing washer 67 is then placed upon the stud 63; the washers 64 and 67
coming in contact with the opposite sides of the tension wheel. The metal collar 68
is then placed upon the stud so as to come in contact with the outer friction washer.
The spiral spring 69 is next placed upon the stud and finally the nut 70 is screwed
upon the screw threaded outer end of the stud substantially as shown in Fig. 11.
The thread or cord T passes around the tension wheel, as shown, on its way from a
suitable wax pot (not shown on the drawings) to the looper.
The operation of the tension device is as follows:
:
The nut 70 is screwed upon the stud 63 tar enough to cause the spring 69 to
press the collar 68 against the washer 67 with sufficient pressure to produce the
desired amount of friction between the washers 64 and 67 to prevent the tension

page_text: wheel from turning on the stud before the desired tension is applied to the thread;
and the said pressure and consequently the required tension may be increased or
decreased by the adjustment of the nut on the stud as will be readily understood.
The automatic tension releasing mechanism is carried out as follows:
Attached to or made in one piece with the driving pulley is a cam shown in
detail in Fig. 14 which can is provided with the cam groove 71 which engages the
roll 72 on the tension release lever 73 causing said lever to intermittingly oscillate
on its fulcrum 74. The rod 75 passes loosely through a perforation in an ear on
the tension release lever said rod being screw-threaded at this place and provided
with the nut and check nut 76. The bell-crank lever 77 is pivoted at 78 to the
frame 2 and has one arm pivotally attached to the end of the rod 75 the other arm
of the bell-crank lever being forked and extending on either side of the collar 68.
The ends of the forked portion of the lever 77 are provided with inwardly
extending projections 79, 79, which enter recesses on opposite sides of the
collar 68.
The automatic releasing of the tension on the thread or cord is accomplished as
follows:
When the action of the cam groove 71 causes the lever 73 to turn on its fulcrum
and the ear on said lever to engage the nut and check nut 76 on the rod 75 it will
force the rod forward and by so doing will cause the bell-crank lever to turn upon
its fulcrum and move the collar 68 longitudinally on the stud 63 against the
influence of the spring 69 thereby removing the pressure exerted by said spring
from the washer 67 and withdrawing the friction between the tension wheel and
the washers 64 and 67, consequently releasing the tension on the thread or cord T
as it allows the wheel to turn easily on the stud when the thread or cord is pulled
forward. The tension is automatically renewed by the influence of the spring 69
as soon as the cam groove 71 causes the lever 73 to move in the opposite direction
aud removes the ear on the tension release lever from contact with the nut aud
check nut 76.
The automatic take-up, to take up the slack in the thread or cord as the needle
is moving forward and piercing the work and thereby controlling the slack thread,
consists of the following device, that is to say :-
To one end of the needle lever 27 is firmly attached the yielding take-up 80
formed of a spring wire or rod which is provided with the hook or loop 81, as
shown in Figs. 2, 11 and 13. The thread or cord T passes from the tension wheel
through the hook or loop 81 and over the sheave 82 in its course from the wax pot
to the looper as shown in Figs. 2 and 11. This sheave is shown in dotted lines in
Fig. 11 being placed within a suitable shield and pivotally attached to the
bracket 83 on the frame 2 or to some other stationary part of the machine.
The operation of the take-up is substantially the same as those now in common
use and needs no further description herein.
The mechanism to properly guide the boot or shoe while being sewed on the
machine consists of a channel guide 84 which rests in the channel of the sole as the
work is fed, also a back gauge to press against the side of the upper of the boot or
shoe, and if so desired an auxiliary back-gange to assist the first mentionel back-
gauge and hold the work more steadily. When a welt is being sewed upon the
boot or shoe a suitable welt-guide is used in combination with the back-gauge or
with the auxiliary back-gauge or with both, or it may be independent of both, the
welt-guide in the latter case performing the functions of the back gauge. In the
machine these devices are carried out as follows:
The channel guide 84 is rigidly but adjustably attached to the frame 2
substantially as shown in Fig. 1 so that its lower end will enter the channel in the
sole of the boot or shoe B shown on the drawings in cross section which is lasted
upon the last L and by resting in said channel will tend to guide the boot
or shoe.
In the drawings are shown, a back-gauge, an auxiliary back-gauge, and a

page_text: welt-guide, but it is not necessary that all of such devices be used as any one of
them with the exception of the auxiliary back-gauge may be used without the
others with good results, as above set forth.
The back gauge 85 projects forward from the front of the frame 2 as shown in
Figs. 2 and 8 and is secured upon the forward end of the shaft or slide 86 forming
a collar between which and the frame 2 is placed the spiral spring 87 the tendency
of which is to hold the back-gauge forward against the side of the boot or shoe.
The cam 7 on the driving shaft is provided with the cam groove 88 which acts
upon the roll 89 on the back-gauge lever 90 causing said lever to oscillate on its
fulcrum 91 on the frame 2. To the back-gauge lever is pivotally attached the
perforated block 92 through which perforation the rod 93 is loosely guided. The
spring 94 surrounds the rod 93 between the block 92 and a collar 95 adjustably
mounted on the rod, the tendency of said spring being to move the rod longitudinally
in the block towards the front of the machine. The nut, check-nut and washer 96.
adjustable upon the rod 93 limit the above mentioned movement of the same in the
block, consequently the rod can be moved backward from its normal position in the
block as shown in Fig. 9, but is prevented from moving forward by means of
the nut check nut and washer 96. The forward end of the rod 93 is pivotally attached
to a stud or projection on the slide 97 which slide is movable and moved forward
and backward in guides in the front of the machine by the action of the cam 88 on
the back gauge lever 89 substantially as shown in Figs. 1 and 9. Within a guide
in the slide 97 is adjustably secured the slide 98 which is provided with the teeth
or serrations 99 and also with the forked projection 100 which projection embraces
the shaft 86 and rests within cross grooves 101 on the shaft in such a manner that
when the back-gauge is moved backward or forward by the boot or shoe it will also
move the slide 97 in a corresponding direction in its guides in the frame 2 against
the influence of the spring 94 on the rod 93 said rod moving forward and backward
in the block 92. Thus it will be seen that the pressure of the back-gauge against
the boot or shoe is the combined yielding pressure exerted by the springs 87 and 94.
The construction of the connection between the shaft 86 and the projection 100
allows such parts to be applied to the frame 2 and also a movement of the
projection 100 in the cross grooves on the shaft 86.
A locking mechanism is employed to lock and hold the back-gauge from being
moved forward by the influence of the spring 87 or backward by the pressure of
the boot or shoe against said back-gauge, said mechanism being constructed
substantially as follows:
Upon the hub of the driving pulley 4 is formed the cam surface 102 which acts
upon the roll 103 on the locking lever 104. This lever is fulcrumed to the frame 2
at 105. The bolt 106 is mounted and longitudinally movable in a bearing in the
frame 2 being kept from rotating in its bearing by means of the screw 107 which is
screwed through the frame and enters a longitudinal groove on the holt 106 as
shown in Fig. 8. The spring 108 surrounds the bolt 106 between the head on the
bolt and a shoulder made in the frame by a recess therein in which the spring 108
rests, said spring acting to force the bolt longitudinally in its bearings in the frame
towards the slide 98 as shown in Fig. 8. The inner end of the bolt 106 is provided
with the teeth or serrations 109 which engage the teeth or serrations 99 on the
slide 98 when the bolt is moved sufficiently longitudinally in its bearing by the
spring 108 thereby locking said slide against a longitudinal movement in its
bearing so as to hold the back-gauge against the boot or shoe to support the boot
or shoe while the needle is withdrawing from the perforation in the same which it
has previously made, said needle carrying within the hook or throat near the point
of the needle the loop in the thread or cord placed there by the looper as will be
fully described hereinafter. The outer end of the bolt 106 is screw threaded and
projects through a perforation in the locking lever 104 and is provided on its
extreme end outside of said lever with the nut and check nut 110 which rests
against the outer surface of the locking lever holding said bolt against the influence
of the spring. 108 the lever being prevented from turning on its fulcrum by-the

page_text: cam 102 on the driving pulley. When the roll on the lever 104 reaches the low
part of the cam 102 the spring 108 will cause the locking lever to turn on its
fulcrum and the bolt 106 to lock the back-gauge. It will be seen that the
spring 108 acts to hold the roll 103 against the cam 102.
The machine is preferably provided with an auxiliary back-gauge to assist the
back-gauge 85 in supporting the boot or shoe and holding it more steadily, which
auxiliary gauge is constructed and operated substantially as follows:
Within bearings in the base of the frame. 2 and in a bracket 111 attached to or
made in one piece with said frame is longitudinally movable the rod or bar 112.
The spring 113 surrounds this rod or bar between the frame and the shoulder 114
on the bar the tendency of which is to force the bar forward. The stop 115 limits
the forward movement of the bar as shown on Fig. 10. Upon the forward end of
the bar 112 is firmly attached the auxiliary back-gauge 116 which is preferably.
made broad so as to present a sufficiently large surface to the boot or shoe to hold
and guide it properly while being sewed.
The bar 112 is provided on its side with the teeth or serrations 117 and in a
bearing in the bracket 118 made in one piece with or attached to the frame 2 is
mounted the bolt 119 which is adapted to slide longitudinally in its bearings being
prevented from turning therein by ineans of the screw 120 which is screwed through
the bracket and enters a longitudinal groove on the bolt as shown in Fig. 10. The
spring 121 surrounds the bolt between the head on the bolt and the bracket 118
the tendency of said spring being to force the bolt longitudinally towards the right
of the machine. The forward end of the bolt is provided with the teeth or
serrations 122 which engage the teeth or serrations on the bar 112 when the bolt is
sufficiently moved in its bearing by the spring 121 locking said bar against a
longitudinal movement in its bearings so as to firmly and rigidly hold the auxiliary
back-gauge and the boot or shoe while the needle is withdrawing and carrying the
loop in the thread or cord resting in the hook on the end of the needle through the
perforation made in the boot or shoe by the needle. The outer end of the bolt 119
is screw-threaded and projects through a perforation in the lower end of the
lever 104 and is there provided with the nut and check nut 123 which rests against
the outer surface of the lower end of the lever and holds said bolt against the
influence of the spring 121 until the roll 103 on the lever 104 reaches the low part of
the cam and allows the spring 121 to act upon the bolt and to lock the auxiliary
back-gauge in a manner aud for a similar purpose as above described in relation to
the locking of the back-gauge.
When the machine is to be used in sewing what are known in the trade as welt-
shoes, a guide is employed to guide the welt to its proper place on the shoe and
such a welt-guide and its operating mechanism are constructed and operated as
follows:
Within the same guide groove which contains the slide 97 but in front of said
slide is placed another slide 124 which is free to be moved forward and backward
in said guide groove and to this slide is secured the welt guide 125 by means of the
screw bolt 126 in such a manner that it may be adjusted in relation to the slide. The
welt-guide is provided in its forward end with the slotted perforation 127 through
which the welt passes when being fed to the boot or shoe. The length of this
perforation is adjustable to suit the different widths of welts used by means of the
gauge 128 which is adjusted and held in its adjusted position by means of the
screw 129. The eye 130 Fig. 1 is attached to some convenient part of the frame 2
and through it the welt is guided to the welt-guide in order to keep it from contact
with the working parts of the machine. The rod or connection 131 is attached to
the slide 97 and is loosely guided through a perforation in a stud or projection 132
on the slide 124 being surrounded by the spiral spring 133 between the stud 132 and a
collar or shoulder on the rod, the tendency of said spring being to force the slide
with its attached welt-guide forward so as to cause the welt-guide to press against
the side of the boot or shoe with a slight pressure while it is being sewed. The
collar 134 is adjustably mounted on the forward end of the rod 131 and it will be

page_text: seen that when the slide 97 is moved backward in its guide in the frame 2 by means
of the cam 88 it will also cause the slide 124 and its attached welt-guide to be
moved backward.
.
I
It is not necessary to the working of the machine that the welt-guide should be
drawn backward with the back-gauge by the action of the cam 88 and if such
movement of the welt-guide is to be dispensed with the collar 134 is not placed
upon the rod 131, the action of the cam 88 simply drawing back the rod 131 and
removing the pressure of the spring 133 from the welt-guide allowing it to easily
be moved backward when placing the stock on the machine ready to be sewed.
Heretofore in machines of this class when placing the boot or shoe upon the
machine to be sewed it has been necessary for the operator to press the same, against
the back-gauge and welt-guide either or both as is used on the machine, with
sufficient pressure to force them backward against the spring pressure exerted on
them. One of the principal objects of our invention is to provide means whereby
the boot or shoe is easily placed in position to be sewed without forcing the
back-gauge or welt-guide backward with the boot or shoe. This we accomplish
as follows:
The rud 23, attached at its lower end to the lever 22 on the treadle shaft, is
pivotally attached at its upper end to the lever 135 which is firmly mounted on the
shaft 136 which shaft is rotatable in bearings in the bracket 137 attached to or
made in one piece with the upper end of the standard 1. The lever 138 is firmly
secured to the shaft 136 and turns with said shaft. The upper end of the lever 138
is perforated and through said perforation is loosely movable the rear screw-threaded
end of the rod 139 said rod being connected in its forward end to the slide 97.
Outside the lever 138 and upon the screw threaded end of the rod 139 is screwed
the nut and check-nut 140 which are adjustable thereon.
The rear screw-threaded end of the rod 141 projects through a perforation in the
block 142 pivotally attached to the lever 138 and is provided with the nut and
check nut 143. The rod 141 is pivotally connected in its forward end to the
stud 132 on the slide 124.
The operation of this device is as follows. When the pressure is released from
the treadle 17 to stop the machine after sewing a boot or shoe, the rod 23 is drawn
downward by means of the spring 24. This downward movement of the rod will
cause the shaft 136 to rock in its bearings and move the upper end of the lever 138
backward which movement of said lever will cause it and the block 142 to come
into contact respectively with the nuts and check nuts 140 and 143 on the respective
rods 139 and 141. This will cause the automatic withdrawal of the back gauge
and welt-guide from contact with the boot or shoe which has been sewed allowing
it to easily be removed from the channel guide and another boot or shoe to be placed
upon the machine in position to be sewed. When the treadle is again depressed to
start the machine the rod 23 will be moved upward against the influence of the
spring 24 causing the upper end of the lever 138 to move forward and allowing the
springs 87 and 133 to again press the back gauge and welt guide respectively
against the boot or shoe.
An automatic meaus is employed on the machine to automatically release the
tension on the thread or cord when the machine is stopped so as to allow the thread
or cord to feed forward easily with the boot or shoe when the boot or shoe is being
removed from the machine after it has been sewed. This device is constructed and
operated as follows:
To the shaft 136 is firmly secured the perforated arm or lever 144 as shown in
Figs. 2 and 3, through the perforation in which the lower rear screw-threaded end
of the rod 75 projects and within which it loosely movable. The nut and check
nut 145 are screwed upon the screw-threaded end of the rod 75 just in front of the
lever 144 and so that they will come in contact with said lever when the shaft is
turned in its bearings by the action of the treadle.
It will be seen that when the treadle is depressed by the foot of the operator
B

page_text: and held in such a position as shown on the drawings, the lever 144 will be held
backward against the influence of the spring 24 far enough to remove said lever
from contact with nut and check-nut 145 thus allowing the spring 69 to exert a
pressure on the tension wheel 65 thereby causing a tension on the thread. But if
the pressure on the treadle is removed the treadle will be raised to its upper position
by the influence of the spring 24 thus stopping the machine and by means of the
connection rod 23 will turn the shaft 136 in its bearings so as to cause the lever 144
to press against the nut and check-nut 145 and consequently more the rod 75
forward in its bearing in the ear on the tension release lever which will cause the
forked bell-crank lever 77 to remove the friction on the tension-wheel and
consequently automatically release the tension on the thread or cord by the stopping
of the machine.
In preparing the boot or shoe ready for sewing, the upper is lasted on the insole
and held in such position substantially as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 by means of the
lasting tacks 146 and it is very desirable to extract these tacks while the boot or
shoe is being sewed and preferably just ahead of the needle when sewing them as
the needle is very liable to be bent or broken by coming into contact with the
tacks when they are not extracted. This tack puller and its operating mechanism
are constructed and operated substantially as follows:
The cam 7 is provided on its side with the cam groove 147 which acts upon the
roll 148 on the lever 149 pivoted at 150 to the frame 2 causing said lever to oscillate
on its fulcrum. To the free lower end of the lever 149 is pivotally attached the
block 151 by means of the pin or bolt 152 substantially as shown in Fig. 12 the
opposite end of said block forming a fulcrum 153 for the lever 154 thus it will be seen
that the introduction of the block 151 between the levers 149 and 154 and the pivotal
connection between said block and levers forms a universal joint so that the
lever 154 is capable of turning in a substantially horizontal plane on the pin 152 as
a centre and also in a substantially vertical plane on its fulcrum 153 on the block
as shown in Fig. 12. The cam 7 is also provided on its edge with the cam
groove 155 which acts upon the roll 156 on the rear end of the lever 154 shown in
Figs. 1 and 3 causing said lever to oscillate on the pin 152 as a centre thus giving
its forward end a lateral movement for a purpose which will be understood by the
further description of the mechanism. The cam 7 is also provided on its edge
with the can surface 157 which acts upon the roll 158 also on the rear end of the
lever 154 shown in said Figs. 1 and 3 causing said lever to turn on its fulcrum 153
on the block 151 as a centre thus giving the forward end of the lever an up
and down movement. The action of the cam 147 on the lever 149 will cause
the lever 154 to have a forward and backward movement. The tack-puller
proper 159 is securely attached to the forward end of the lever 154 as shown
in Fig. 1 the forward end of the puller being forked or comb-shaped, but the
particular shape of the puller is not shown in the drawings as it was thought
to be unnecessary it being of the shape of any known suitable hand tack-puller.
The cams which govern the movements of the levers 149 and 154 are so
timed in relation to each other that their combined actions on said levers will
cause the forward end of the lever 154 and consequently the tack-puller attached
thereto to have six movements, viz., a lateral motion from the right towards
the left of the machine at the same time that the boot or shoe is being fed by the
feeding mechanism; a downward movement; a forward movement towards
the boot or shoe to introduce the tack-puller 159 under the head of the lasting
tack or tacks driven into the boot or shoe which are in its path; an upward
movement to draw the tack or tacks from the boot or shoc; a backward move-
ment and finally a lateral movement from the left towards the right of the
machine to the place from whence it started.
In some cases it may be desirable to dispense with the lateral movements of the
puller from right to left of the machine and return and we do not wish to be confined
to the use of such movements.

page_text: The course of the thread or cord T used in this machine from a suitable wax
pot, not however shown in the drawings, to the looper, is as follows:
From the wax pot to and around the tension wheel 65, through the hook or
loop 81 in the take-up, over the sheave 82 on the bracket 83, over a second
sheave 160 on a bracket 161 attached to or made in one piece with the frame 2
and shown in Fig. 1; through the hollow looper shaft 50 and finally to and
through the perforation 53 in the looper 52.
°
With the various elements in the position shown in the drawings viz.: the
slide 33, the movements of which cause the feeding of the stock, at the end of
its movement towards the left; the needle 36 drawn backward and out of the
stock the back-gauge 85 and auxiliary back-gauge 116 locked; the tack-
puller 159 at its upper back position and at the extreme left of its movements:
the looper 52 at its outer or front position and the friction on the tension wheel 65
causing a tension on the thread, the operation of the combined mechanisms
and devices which constitute the machine is as follows:
The back-gauge 85 is unlocked, the slide 33 and tack-puller 159 move towards
the right of the machine and the looper 52 begins to rotate towards the right
and rear all at the same time. When the slide 33 reaches the end of its
movement towards the right, the looper 52 its rear position and the tension is
still on the thread, then the needle 36 begins to move forward and to pierce
the stock. When the needle reaches the end of its forward movement and has
pierced the stock and projects through the same far enough to expose the hook
or throat which is near the forward end of said needle, the looper 52 begins
its return forward movement towards the left, the tack puller 159 begins to move
towards the left of the machine and the slide 33 also begins to move towards
the left causing the feeding of the stock. During the feeding of the work the
looper by its rotation towards the left as above mentioned loops the thread or
cord over the projecting end of the needle and into the hook or throat of the
same and after the loop has been made the tension is released. As the stock
reaches the end of its movement towards the left and the looper reaches the
end of its rotation towards the left and to its rear position the tack-puller 159
moves downward. When the needle begins its backward movement to withdraw
from the stock carrying with it the loop which rests in its hook or throat, the
back-gauge and auxiliary back-gauge become locked, the tack-puller makes a
quick forward and then upward movement to pull the tack or tacks which may
be in the path of its movement and after the needle has withdrawn slightly the
looper rotates forward to its front position. During the last part of the backward
movement of the needle the tack-puller moves backward to the position from
whence it started and the tension is again applied to the thread or cord. The
loop which remains resting in the hook or throat of the needle is cast off from
the needle just as the needle leaves the stock when moving backward in making
the next stitch.
I wish it to be understood that I do not wish to confine myself to the exact
means shown to accomplish the automatic intermittent release of the tension on
the thread or cord, neither do I wish to confine myself to the exact construction
shown to connect the back-gauge, auxiliary back-gauge, welt-guide or the
tension releasing mechanism with the starting and stopping mechanism in order
to operate them as above described as any or all of such mechanisms might be
modified or changed within the scope of mechanical skill without departing from
the spirit of this invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondents, I declare that what I claim is :-
1st. In a sewing machine, a tension device for the thread or cord in combina;
tion with automatic mechanism to goveru said device and cause the tension to

page_text: be automatically and intermittingly applied and removed from the thread or cord
during the formation of the stitches, for the purpose set forth.
2nd. In a sewing machine, the combination, with mechanism for starting and
stopping the machine, of a tension releasing device and connections between said
mechanism and device whereby the tension is automatically released by the
stopping of the machine and automatically again applied when the machine is
started by said mechanism, for the purpose set forth.
3rd. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stopping, and starting
mechanism, of a back-gauge for the stock being sewed, and connections between
said mechanism and the back-gauge whereby the said back-gauge is automatically
withdrawn from contact with the stock by the stopping of the machine and
automatically allowed to come into contact with the stock by the starting of the
machine, for the purpose set forth.
.
4th. In a sewing machine for boots and shoes, the combination, with a starting
and a stopping mechanism of a back-gauge for the boot or shoe being sewed
a welt-guide to guide the welt and connections between said mechanism, said
back-gauge and welt-guide, whereby the back-gange and welt-guide are
automatically withdrawn from contact with the boot or shoe by the stopping of
the machine and automatically allowed to come into contact with the same by
the starting of the machine for the purpose set forth.
5th. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle and operating mechanism,
a looper and operating mechanism, a tension wheel and an automatically
intermittingly operating tension-releasing mechanism substantially as described
and for the purpose set forth.
6th. In a sewing machine, the combination with the stitch forming mechanisms,
of a spring pressed back-gauge, and a lock and mechanism to automatically and
intermittingly lock and unlock said gauges during the formation of stitches, for the
purpose set forth.
7th. In a sewing machine, the combination with the stitch forming mechanisms,
of a spring-pressed back-gauge, a spring pressed auxiliary back-gauge, locks and
mechanism to automatically and intermittingly lock and unlock both gauges during
the formation of stitches, for the purpose set forth.
8th. A wax-thread sewing machine provided with the various devices constructed
substantially as described with reference to the accompanying drawings and operating
as, and for the purposes, specified.
Dated t
A
1
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.