Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Nov., 1887
Complete Specification Left, 14th Aug., 1888
Complete Specification Accepted. 14th Nov., 1888
I ALICE GEMS wife of Julius Frederick Gems of 14 Acacia Grove West Dulwich
in the County of Surrey do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This my Invention has for its object improved mechanical contrivances in the manu-
facture of dress stands, busts or holders of wearing apparel so as to expand any
desired size to suit the shape of every figure and change of fashion, also to compress
into small space for packing storing and travelling purposes.
For these purposes I make the dress stand or form of vertical spring steel, cane or
other elastic substance covered or uncovered and on a similar principle to that of an
ordinary umbrella but having a seperate action or the hips the back and the front of
skirt also for bust and waist; or dress-stands may be made in one piece in the ordinary
manner, of bent or shaped wire or other suitable material, or shaped wire made in
sections to telescope (as in my Patent No. 16,567/86 and 8295/87 either with or
without a body of wire or fibrous pulp covered or uncovered having an expanding
waist or an expanding waist and bust. Dress-stands bave been made on the umbrella
principle but hitherto of a circular shape having no distinction for hips, front or
back all these important portions of the form being controlled by a single action.
The natural shape of the figure is more or less flat in front immediately below waist,
abrupt or sloping at sides or hips and still larger at back; the circular shape and
single action is therefore unnatural and at variance with the true shape of the female
figure which the dress stand should represent; the object of this portion of my
Invention is to construct the seperate action for the various parts. The waist is made
of an elastic band, or an expanding band of any suitable substance but preferably of
steel plates made in sections to slide or of coiled or woven spring wire. This waistband
is attached to the upper end of the outside lathes or ribs and has a seperate action for
;

page_text: expanding, compressing and adjusting the waist any desired size by means of two sets
of stretchers or braces extending in opposite directions and attached at upper or lower
end to notched runners or collars having a thumb screw for fixing the runners to the
upright arm or support; this gives the waist an independant action as by raising the
lower runner or lowering the upper runner the waist can be adjusted the desired size
by fixing the thumb screws in runners, to upright arm or central support.
The hips have another set of seperate stretchers attached a few inches below waist to
the outer lathes or vertical ribs, the lower portion of stretchers also being joined to a
runner having a thumb screw for adjusting the hips seperately.
The back portion has a similar action but the stretchers are preferably made longer
so that by raising its runner the size is increased.
The front acts seperately in a similar manner. The bottom part of skirt has also
seperate sets of runners for adjusting its front, sides, and back, or other means may be
employed for adjusting the seperate actions and obtaining the object of this my
Invention, such as by fitting to the upright arm or support vertical wires on which the
stretchers of the seperate actions may run up and down or, a tube with slits may be
used in which the stretchers slide or other seperate adjustments can be made by any
suitable means.
To this expanding dress or skirt form, a body may be attached made
of wire or fibrous pulp covered or uncovered having an expanding bust and
waist.
Hitherto the ordinary wire and fibrous pulp dress stands have been made with fixed
busts, waist, hips and skirt, which are only suitable for displaying or making dresses
of one size. To make the ordinary wire or fibrous pulp dress stands or busts suitable
for various sizes, and when converting my telescoping dress stands as described in my
patents No. 16,567'86 and 8295,87 into expanding, compressible and adjustable forms
or busts: I employ expanding and adjustable mechanical actions at bust, waist, hips
and skirt, by any suitable means but preferably (when made of bent or shaped wire)
by dividing or partially dividing the form into vertical sections and employing slides
or double connecting wires with thumb-screws or by springs being fixed to the
expanding parts, or the jointed wires may be made to act in tubes or by double wires
overlapping and griping each other by means of loops knuckles or other suitable
fastenings which may be adjusted or fixed at any position by oval rings encircling the
jointing wires and sliding to engage at either end; or other suitable means may
be employed without departing from the main object of this portion of my
Invention.
When made of fibrous pulp or a combination of pulp and wire, the pulp portion is
made in two, three or more sections by partially dividing such as at bust, waist and
hips, having clastic or pliable joints, or the bust may be made with a flat front above
waist and an additional piece joined on to form a false bust which may be fixed to the
main bust by an elastic web or other suitable materials, and may be made expanding
and adjustable by means of the additional piece being attached to a rod having notches
that fit in a plate let in the centre of flat portion of bust, or a spring may be inserted
to the expanding false piece and held inore or less in a compressed position by
straps or other fittings; or other methods may be employed for expanding the
bust.
The waist is made to expand by being cut or partially cut in vertical sections and
hinged several inches above the ordinary waist having elastic or pliable joints of any
suitable material, these same expanding mechanical actions may be used to the hips,
back, and front below waist. The skirt portion which is usually of bent or
shaped wire is made to expand in a similar manner to that above described
for the ordinary wire forms including my telescoping dress stands No. 16,567,86
and 8295/87.
These expanding, compressible and adjustable dress-stands or forms may be fitted
at back with a false piece which forms an expanding bustle & may be telescoping on
the same principle as described in my patents No. 16,567,86 and 8295/87 and made
adjustable by means of double connecting wires overlapping and gripping each other
by means of loops knuckles or other suitable fittings or fastenings which may be

page_text: adjusted or fixed in any position by oval rings encircling the jointing wires and
sliding to engage at either end, or other similar expanding adjustments may be used.
These dress stands or forms are fixed or attached to a turned pillar or support
having an ordinary telescoping action and may be jointed in three, four, or more
parts so as to be more readily packed and stowed away for travelling or other
purposes.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Expanding, Compressible, and Adjustable Dress Stands,
Busts, or Holders of Wearing Apparel.
I ALICE GEMS wife of Julius Fredk. Gems of 14 Acacia Grove, West Dulwich
in the County of Surrey, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement:-
-
This my invention has for its object improved mechanical contrivances in the
manufacture of dress stands, Busts, forms or Holders of wearing apparel, so as to
expand any desired size, to suit the shape of different figures, and change of fashion ;
also to compress or telescope into small space for packing, storing or travelling
purposes.
For these purposes I make the dress stand form or holder of wearing apparel, either
to compress and expand as an ordinary umbrella, but with separate actions for
obtaining a proper natural shape; or in the ordinary manner that Dress Stands, forms,
or Busts, as have hitherto been made, such as of bent or shaped wire, or fibrous pulp
covered or uncovered, separately or combined and of other materials as is usually
employed. These I make in one piece, or in 2 or more vertical sections made to
expand and compress. Also to telescope by means of the upper sections sliding or
fitting in the lower and as described in my patent No. 16567,86 Skirt forms have been
made in a similar manner to that of an ordinary umbrella, but hitherto without any
mechanical contrivance for altering regulating, and keeping the waist firm and without
any mechanical contrivances for producing the proper natural shape resembling that
of the female figure and hitherto expanding or contracting in a perfectly circular
shape, having only one set of stretchers (all of one size) for enlarging or compressing,
so that whatever size adjusted is perfectly round.
Whereas the shape of the female figure from waist downwards, is more or less flat
in front, immediately below waist; abrupt or sloping at sides, or hips; and still
a circular
larger at back. The circular shape or single actions, therefore produce
form altogether unnatural and at variance with the true shape of the figure which a
dress stand, should exactly represent. The object of this portion of this, my invention,
is to construct a skirt frame capable of being adjusted to more perfectly represent the

page_text: natural shape of the female form, or style of dress, that may from time to time be in
vogue or the popular fashion, by means of separate actions or mechanical contrivances
for adjusting any part or portion of the form in order to obtain the particular shape or
fulness that may be required. For these purposes when making the skirt form
expanding and compressible in a similar manner to that of an umbrella, I employ
vertical strips of spring steel, cane, or other elastic substance, covered or uncovered;
or of iron or steel wire but preferably of wire, (see Fig. 1.) which form the outer ribs,
and are preferably made in pairs, or jointed one to the other by means of small pieces
of wire or other suitable fittings, so that the ribs are made continuous, on top of which
the waist is formed either by steel plates attached and made in sections, and sliding
one in the other, or of other suitable material to expand and contract as desired.
Or the waist may be formed by the tops of the wire ribs, which may be slightly bent,
and made of a circular shape by means of an elastic band or other material with
suitable fittings, but preferably made with tape, which may have inches printed on,
encircling the waist and held in position by means of its passing through small wire
loops attached to each of the wire ribs. To this waist, or upper ends of the outside
ribs I attach a double set of stretchers or braces, as shown at A' and extending in
opposite directions at the reverse ends of which they are attached to a notched runner
or collar, (B) which may be made in two tubuler sections, one having the notch
attached, the other having a thumb screw (e) which passes through screw nut, the
double tubes being so constructed as to revolve independently, in order that although
the portion with thumb screw may be attached to the upright arm or support, as shown
at D', the notch may be revolved. This gives the waist an independent action, as by
raising the lower runners, or lowering the upper at D₁ the waist can be expanded or
compressed and adjusted the desired size, by fixing the thumb screw to the upright
arm or central support. The hips have another single set of stretchers attached a few
inches below waist, as shown at E', to the outer wire ribs. The reverse ends of
stretchers also being joined to a notched runner F1 having a thumb screw and which
will adjust the hips separately to the required fulness, so as to be either abrupt or
sloping. The back portion (G) has another set of stretchers, attached a few inches
below waist; but these are preferably made longer, so that by raising the runners (H¹)
the size is increased as may be required. The front also has another set of stretchers,
attached a few inches below waist as shown at I to act separately in a similar manner.
The bottom parts of skirt have also separate sets of runners with thumb screws for
adjusting the front back and sides. Or I employ a set of doubled stretchers as shown
at K³, and formed by making a sliding joint of two stretchers, one being forked at
both ends, and bent up (as shown in Figure 4) at each end, so as to slide or telescope,
and is made adjustable by means of a washer connecting the two stretchers, one end
of the double portion being wider apart, so that by pushing the washer L towards
the wider part it fits or grips. By this means the bottom part of skirt can be adjusted
to any required size or shape. Other and simpler means may be employed for
obtaining the same object of improved shape with firm waist and hips. Also for
adjusting the desired size and proper natural shape, although not so perfectly as
described in figure one. This is obtained by employing a single set of ordinary
umbrella stretchers, (a) which are either attached to the top of upright arm or
support, and the reverse ends attached to a notched runner at the waist portion of
wire ribs, (B) where the waist is formed by means of a tape which may also have
inches printed thereon, or of other material encircling the upper ends of ribs.
These ribs are also made in pairs and jointed together by means of small pieces of
wire being knuckled and soldered to each pair at 02 and D2 waist and lower part of
skirt making the ribs continuous. To this simple joint at C are attached another set
of ordinary umbrella stretchers by the forked ends being threaded through the small
connecting wires (02) the reverse ends of which are attached to a notched runner (E³)
as described in figure one, also having a thumb screw attachment (F") so that by
raising or lowering this notched runner and setting screw, the hips back and front,
are regulated to the desired size, which may also have a tape band to encircle this
portion although rigid without.

page_text: Ι
To adjust the front separately 1 employ one or more of the doubled stretchers
described above and shown in figure 4. The back portion is also increased in size to
form a natural shape by similar means as shown at G & H Front and back. The waist
is also governed by means of the thumb screw attachment shown at F. The tape
waist having first been set to the desired size, or this waist may have an extra set of
stretchers so that it may be regulated separtely and exactly as described for waist in
figure one. The lower portion of figure 3 is governed by another set of doubled
stretchers for regulating the required fulness exactly in the same manner as at bottom
of skirt described in figure one. Or by a single set of stretchers but preferably
longer so as to give a greater or less fulness if desired and having doubled stretchers
exactly as described above for regulating the hips back and front. These stretchers
are hinged to the outer ribs by means of small pieces of wire being knuckled to the
ribs at D2 and attaching the reverse ends to another notched runner (J) with thumb
screw for setting or adjusting the required size.
To give an extra fulness to the back portion I employ an extra attachment, which
may be adjustable to any required fulness according to the dictates of fashion. This
attachment is formed by one or more extra ribs, or double ribs being hinged or hooked,
or by other means fixed to the continuous ribs at waist or immediately below waist.
This attachment extending to the bottom part of skirt is connected by small pieces of
wire that are either riveted on the ribs at K² or are hooked, or by other means jointed
but preferably riveted in order to hinge close to bottom ends of the continuous ribs at
back when adjusted to a larger or less degree of fulness as may be required. This
adjustment is made by means of a toothed or bent piece of wire being hinged or
attached to the extra attachment at L2 and made large or small according to the extent
the toothed or adjusting wire is pulled out or rested on the small pieces of wire which
joint the ribs as above described and shown at C². A similar attachment may also be
fixed to the hips or sides should the dictates of fashion make this necessary. Other
means may be employed for adjusting the form to any desired size or shape and
obtaining the object of this my invention, such as by fitting to the upright arm or
support vertical wires on which the stretchers and the separate actions may run up
and down; or a tube with slits may be used in which the stretchers slide, or the
separate adjustinents can be made by other suitable means without departing from the
object of this my invention.
These dress or skirt forms as described and shown in figure 1 & 3 are fixed to a
central arm or support composed of two pieces of tube, or iron rod and tube, which
are made to telescope and revolve by means of the upper tube, the top of which is
shown at D, being made slightly larger than the lower, so as to allow tube (J¹) to
easily pass or telescope inside.
The upper tube at 1' where a neck or collar L' is fitted so as to allow the upper
tube to revolve. This neck or collar being fitted with a thumb screw passing through
a nut formed in collar will grip the lower tube at any given position and so alter the
whole form to any desired height.
These telescoping and revolving tubes may be fitted or screwed to a wood or iron
nut, claw, or standard, or other suitable contrivance, or folding feet, as shown in
figures one & three, but forming a firm base, yet easily made portable. These skirt
forms are constructed, so that they can be compressed into a small space like an
umbrella, and can be folded in a similar manner to that shown in fig. two. To this
expanding dress or skirt form, a body may be attached made of bent or shaped wire
and formed in the usual manner, or may be made to expand by dividing into 2 or
more vertical sections, and hinged at the neck piece. The expanding backs being
adjusted by means of double locking wires so formed at each end as to overlap and
grip each other by means of loops or knuckles. These may be fixed or adjusted at
any given position by a washer, which when drawn to either end locks or wedges.
These I prefer to call adjustable slides and may either be made of wire, or umbrella
stretchers may be used as described & shown in fig. 4. The waist of this body may
also be made expanding, by means of tin plates over laping each other and made to
slide one inside the other. This action may also be governed by the adjustable slide as

page_text: above described, or a fibrous pulp body with or without hips may be attached made in
the ordinary manner or constructed to expand by being divided or partially divided
into 2 or more sections, and also made adjustable by means of the slide above
described. Hitherto the ordinary wire dress stands, and those composed of fibrous
pulp covered or uncovered have been made with fixed bust, waist, hips & skirt, and
hitherto no simple means of expanding dress stands have been devised, for displaying
or making dresses for various sizes. This portion of my invention is therefore for
constructing ordinary wire dress stands or those of fibrous pulp by simple mechanical
contrivances to suit various sizes also convertible into small space for storing or
travelling. For these I make the dress stand or form to expand either by dividing or
partially in two or more vertical sections. When making only one division I
preferable form the back part in two pieces by dividing from under neck to bottom of
skirt. This back joint is made to expand, and adjustable by means of inserting the
adjustable slides inside back of body (see fig. 5) "and another at waist (B³) also at
hips (C3) & bottom of skirt (D³). The waist (B3) of this body may also be made
expanding by means of tin plates over lapping each other and made to slide one inside
the other, and governed by the adjustable slide. Or I preferably divide the form into
2 or more distinct vertical sections (being only held together by neck piece) which
are divided at back from neck to waist and front from neck to waist, or at sides
from neck to waist, thus forming the frame in 2 or 4 vertical sections, each
section being made to expand by means of the adjustable slides substantially as shown
in drawing of figure 5 & at A³ B³ C³ & D³. This form may also be telescoped by
subdividing several inches below waist by means of forming a wire circle to the
bottom of upper section slightly smaller than the wire circle at top of lower
section as shown as C3 so as to allow the upper section to easily pass inside the lower
section, and which is made to telescope by ineans of wire loops (E³) which are fixed
to the lower circle of upper section and passing through an upright wire or slide F³,
or other means may be used for telescoping the sections, the mechanical contrivances
for which are described in my patent No. 16567,86. Fig. 6 shows a box containing
the form when telescoped. Or this wire dress stand or form may be subdivided into
3 sections as shown in figure 7, the body being separately detachable having an
expanding waist formed by means of tin plates over lapping each other, and made to
slide one inside the other, and governed by means of the adjustable slide. The waist
part of skirt is also made in a similar manner to that of body. This skirt is then
divided about midway of waist to bottom of skirt and made to telescope, the upper
section inside the lower by the means above described. Or the same expanding skirt
may be subdivided into 3 or more sections in a similar manner & as substantially
described in my invention patent 16567 86. Fig. 8 shows box containing form when
telescoped into 3 sub-sections as described and shown in figure 7. Or when making
the dress stands or forms by a combination of bent or shaped wire, and fibrous pulp
covered or uncovered I make them expanding & adjustable by dividing or partially
dividing at bust, waist, & hips & having an elastic or pliable joint. Fig. 9 illustrates
the form divided into vertical sections from bottom of skirt to waist where the
sections are hinged to a wooden platter attached to the inside of body which gives
each section an independent action, & which may be made adjustable my means of the
adjustable slides being inserted at hips (A') also at 6. This form is also subdivided
at A and telescoped in a similar manner to that above described, by the upper section
passing inside the lower and as shown in figure 6 but where the upper section is
formed by wire. Or the fibrous pulp portion may be divided or partially divided into
4 sections and held together only by the neck piece as shown in figure 10. which I
make of a circular or partially oval shape to which the sections are either fitted or
hinged by means of elastic strips or pieces of strong linen or other material and glued
or fixed to the neck piece so as to allow the divided or partially divided sections to
work freely. These vertical sections are thus made adjustable by either simply
inserting the adjustable wire slides, at back, front, and sides of body, as shown at B³
and in a similar manner at hips (C). Or the bust is expanded by means of a
revolving screw being inserted from neck to waist or below waist having a cone, in

page_text: centre to which a screw nut is fixed so that by the screw being revolved the cone is
forced up and down by pressing against the sides of the 4 sections it is expanded; or
umbrella stretchers fixed to the inner sides of the 4 sections the reverse ends of which
are fixed to a notched runner having a screw nut in centre through which the screw
passes, so that by revolving the screw which may come through neck on top the
stretchers will force the 4 sections outwards so as to expand to the desired size. This
fibrous pulp portion may also be subdivided at C and made to telescope inside the
lower section in a similar manner to that above described, by the upper section passing
inside the lower & as shown in figure 6 but where the upper section is formed of wire
instead of fibrous pulp. Or the fibrous pulp bust may be made with a flat front above
waist and an additional piece joined on to form a false bust. This may be fixed to the
main bust by an elastic webl, or other suitable material and may be expanding and
adjustable by means of the false piece being attached to a rod having teeth or notches
that are made adjustable by resting in plate which is let in the flat portion of bust as
described at A in fig. 11. Or a spring may be inserted to the expanding false piece
and held more or less in a compressed position by straps or other fittings, or other
means of expanding the false piece may be employed without departing from the
object of this portion of my invention. These dress stands or forms are fixed or
attached to a turned pillar or support having an ordinary telescoping action and may
be jointed in 3, 4, or more parts by means of screws and screw nuts or other means of
jointing so as to be more readily portable for packing, travelling and other purposes.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
(1) Skirt forms or Dress stands made like an umbrella but with seperate actions
for expanding and contracting and for producing a more perfectly natural shape
substantially as and in the manner herein described and shown in Fig. 1.
(2) For a simpler means of regulating the waist, expanding and contracting skirt
form to the natural shape, when made like an umbrella substantially as heroin
described and shown in Fig. 3.
(3) For notched runners with thumb screw attachment as applied to dress stands
or forms substantially as described and shown in Figs. 1 & 3.
(4) Adjustable attachments for seperately expanding the back or side portions of
skirt form when made to expand & compress like an umbrella substantially as
herein described and shown in Fig. 3.
(5) For upright arms or central pillars with telescoping and revolving actions
substantially as herein described & shown in Fig. 1 & 3. & which may be employed
for any of my dress-stands or forms.
(6) Bodies made of wire or fibrous pulp to expand and compress and attachable to
skirt forms substantially as herein described and shown in Fig. 7 and which may be
used for any of my dress stands.
(7) Wire dress-stands made to expand and contract by dividing at back or by
dividing into two or more vertical sections and sub-divided into two or more sections
to telescope one inside the other substantially as herein described and as shown in
Figs. 5, 6, 7 & 8.
(8) Dress stands or busts of fibrous pulp divided or partially divided into two or
more vertical sections & made to expand and contract also to be adjustable to different
sizes and with false busts substantially as herein described & as
Figs. 9, 10, 11.
shown in