IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS AND FASTENINGS FOR WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1841

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, THOMAS
CHAMBERS and FRANCIS MARK FRANKLIN, of Lawrence Lane, in the City of
London, Warehousemen, and CHARLES ROWLEY, of Birmingham, in the
County of Warwick, Button Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present, most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Twenty-seventh day of August, in the fifth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give, and grant unto us,, the said
Thomas Chambers, Francis Mark Franklin, and Charles Rowley, Her especial
licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that we, the said Thomas
Chambers, Francis Mark Franklin, and Charles Rowley, our exors, adñiors,
and assigns, or such others as we, the said Thomas Chambers, Francis Mark
Franklin, and Charles Rowley, our exors, admors, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during
the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, our Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS AND
FASTENINGS FOR WEARING APPAREL;" in which said Letters Patent is contained
a proviso that we, the said Thomas, Chambers, Francis Mark Franklin, and
Charles Rowley, or one of us, shall cause a particular description of the
nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,

page_text: to be inrolled in her said majesty ingu
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part
recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto
had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
Thomas Chambers, Francis Mark Franklin, and Charles Rowley, do hereby
declare that the nature of our Invention, and the manner in which the
same is to be performed, are fully described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon (that is to say):-
In order that our Invention may be fully understood, we will proceed to
describe the Drawings hereunto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 represents a button having a shank applied thereto according to
the first part of our Invention. Figure 2 shews a plan and side view of a
shank; and Figure 3 is a plan of a portion of metal stamped in the form of
a cross, the edges of which are to be rounded and then stamped into the form
shown in Figure 2. In applying this construction of shanks to covered
buttons, the "collet" at the back of the button is to have an opening to allow
the shank to pass through in a similar manner to that now pursued when using
flexible shanks, the parts a¹ of the shank a remaining within the button, and
preventing the shank being drawn through the opening in the collet, which
opening I prefer to be in the form of a cross just large enough for the passage
of the shank a. In making a covered button, when using this construction of
shank, the workman will combine the parts as heretofore, when flexible shanks
are used, simply substituting this shank for the flexible shank, and any suitable
material may be used in forming a cover for the front of the button, all
which is well understood, and does not require any description in this our
Specification.
What we claim as the first part of our Invention is, the mode of applying
shanks, each made in the form of a cross, and protruded through the back
sheet or collet of covered buttons, as above described.
We will now describe the second part of our Invention, which relates to
another construction of shanks to be applied to covered buttons.
Figure 4 shows a plan and side section of a shank to be applied according to
this part of our Invention in the manufacture of covered buttons. Figure 5 shows
a circular disc of metal perforated with four holes, which, being sunk, produces
a shank similar to that shown at Figure 4, and in making a covered button

page_text: the shank is protruded through the metal collet at the back of a button, and
the same is prevented being drawn through by the flanch or projecting part b
of the shank a. We would remark, that in using this construction of shank
the buttons made may, as in the former case, be covered on the front with
any suitable material, which covering forms no part of our Invention, and
being well understood requires no description here.
What we claim as the second part of our Invention is, the application of
shanks a, b, Figure 4, through the metal collets of covered buttons, as above
described.
We will now describe the third part of our Invention, which relates to
forming of the collet or metal back of covered buttons of steel, and in such
manner that it will lap over and cover the edges of the button. Figure 6
shows an edge view and plan of a covered button constructed according to this
part of the Invention. Figure 7 shows a plan, and also an edge view in section
of the collet for the back of a button. Figure 8 shows a section of the front
covered shell for a button, and Figure 9 shows an edge section of the collet,
having a shank similar to that used according to the second part of our
Invention, but a flexible or other construction of shank may be used in
making this description of button. c is the shell for forming the front of the
button, on which a covering d of any suitable material is placed, as is shown,
when the upper part of the button, Figure 8, is introduced into the shell
or collet, Figure 9, and the edges of the collet or shell e are folded down, and
the button is formed, having a steel metal edge, the centre covering d being of
metal or other suitable covering. The steel collet is to be tempered blue before
being made into a button.
What we claim as the third part of our Invention is, the mode of con-
structing buttons described in respect to Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9, by applying
steel collets to the backs of the buttons, and causing them to fold at the edges,
as above described.
We will now describe the fourth part of our Invention, which relates to a
mode of constructing buttons with moveable shanks, whereby shanks being
sewed to garments may have several sets of buttons capable of being used at
different times with the same garments.
Figure 10 shows a back view of a covered button constructed according to
this part of our Invention, having the shank attached in its place. Figure 11
shows a back view of the same button without the shank. Figure 12 shows
two sections of the same button, one with and the other without the shank.
Figure 13 shows a plan and a side section of the shank, and Figure 14 shows
the separate parts, which are all in section, excepting the spring.

page_text: In making this construction of button the collet f has a hole f¹ formed at
the back to receive the shank, and a second hole f³, to receive a stud formed
on the shank; g shows the front shell covered with any suitable material,
as is indicated by the Drawing. h is a portion of button board placed in the
shell g.
i is a shell, which receives the spring j, which spring we prefer to be
coiled as shown, though other arrangements of springs may be used.
k is a
circular disc of metal which closes the holes in the collet; and it will be
evident, that when the edges of the shell g are closed over the edges of the
collet, and the parts of the button are secured together, as is indicated at
Figure 12, the spring will be enclosed between the shell and the disc k,
and the disc will be pressed against the collet, as is shewn in the various
Figures. is the shank, the nature of which is clearly shewn, and it is to
be affixed by sewing to a garment; and in order to affix a button thereon, the
the projection is to be pressed under the collet so that the projection l³ may
enter the enlargement of the opening f³ of the collet f, and then by turning
the button one quarter round, the projections 11, 12, will come into the positions
indicated by the dotted lines in Figure 10, and by the pressure of the spring j
against the disc k, the stud 1 will pass through the opening or hole j* formed
in the collet to receive it; by this means the shank will securely hold the
button till the stud 1* is pressed back, and the projections 11, 12, are moved
back one quarter of a circle, when the button may be removed from the shank.
It should be stated, that in this part of our Invention, as well as those
previously described, the buttons are shown on an enlarged scale in order that
the parts may be more readily understood.
What we claim as the fourth part of our Invention is, the mode of con-
structing covered buttons with moveable shanks, as herein described.
We will now proceed to describe the fifth part of our Invention, which
relates to an improvement in the mode of making vest bands.
Figure 15 shews a vest band constructed according to this part of our
Invention, and the improvement consists in cementing the folded edges m, m, m,
in place of sewing with the needle, and in performing this part of our Inven-
tion we prefer to use common paste of flour as the cementing material or
dissolved india rubber called india-rubber cement, or any other convenient
cement may be used, by which means a great saving of time and cost will be
obtained in making vest bands. The edges m, m, are to be folded over as if
about to be fastened by sewing with the needle, and then by means of cement
the same are to be secured to the vest band, as is shown at Figure 15,
n, n, n, being eyelet holes affixed in the usual manner; or in place of folding
the edges of the fabric of which the vest bands are made, the edges may be

page_text: bound with tape, or a narrow strip of fabric, cemented on to the edges of the
vest bands.
What we claim as the fifth part of our Invention is, the mode of making
vest bands by cementing the folded or bound edges in place of securing them
5 by sewing with the needle.
We will now describe the sixth part of our Invention, which relates to con-
structing vest bands with eyelet holes or loops formed from one piece of metal,
in place of having each eyelet hole affixed separately in holes formed in
the fabric of which the vest bands are formed.
Figure 16 shews a vest band constructed according to this part of our
Invention: Figure 17 shows the eyelet holes separately, and Figure 18 shows
another means of making the eyelet holes for vest bands by stamping or
forming them from sheet metal. 0, 0, 0, represents the three eyelet holes,
which, whether made in the manner shown at Figures 16 and 17, or in the
manner shown at Figure 18, are formed from one piece of metal, and they are
affixed, as shown, to the vest band by sewing, and it will be found that eyelet
holes so constructed and applied to vest bands will be more lasting than when
cach cyclet hole is formed separately within a hole formed through the fabric
of which the vest bands are made.
What we claim as the sixth part of our Invention, is the mode of con-
structing vest bands with eyelet holes or loops combined together in one piece
of metal as above explained.
We will now describe the seventh part of our Invention, which relates to a
mode of obtaining elasticity to vest bands.
Figure 19 shows vest bands constructed according to this part of our Inven-
tion. Figure 20 shews the springs and apparatus separately. p, p, shows a bar
or frame with two slots p' formed through it, and q, 9, are two springs formed
around the bar or frame p. The bar or frame p, with its springs, is enclosed
within the double surfaces of fabric, of which the vest bands are in these cases
formed, and is stitched, as is indicated by red dotted lines. r, r, are two studs:
with circular plates or discs on each of their ends, which are affixed by rivet-
ing the ends of the studs, and the studs passing through the slots p' will (when
the vest bands are drawn in a direction to separate them) cause the springs
to be compressed, and will resist the separating of the parts of a vest band, and
offer an elastic resistance to such separation.
What we claim as the seventh part of our Invention is, the mode of applying
springs to vest bands by means of a bar or frame p, as above described.
We will now describe the eighth part of our Invention, which relates to an
apparatus for affixing or securing stocks.

page_text: Figure 20 shows a stock, having the apparatus according to this part of
our Invention applied thereto; and Figure 21 shows the various parts
separately. is a ratchet bar, which is affixed to the stock. is a plate,
having a socket affixed thereto for receiving the bar t. This plate v is affixed
to the other end of the stock, as is shewn. u is a spring fixed at one end to
the plate v, and it has a stud v at the other end. A projecting edge of this
spring passes through an opening or slit formed in the plate v, and enters a
notch formed in the ratchet bar t, and thus holds the bar to whatever position
it
may be forced into the socket, all which will be readily understood on
examining the Drawing.
What we claim as the eighth part of our Invention is, the mode of fastening
stocks by means of ratchet bars and sockets, as herein described.
We will now describe the ninth part of our Invention, which relates to a
mode of constructing elastic fasteners for stocks.
x is an open
has also a
This frame
Figure 22 shows a stock, having this part of our Invention applied thereto.
Figure 23 shows the elastic fastener separately. w is a stud affixed to the
metal stem w, and this stem is affixed to one end of the stock.
frame, having an eye ¹ to pass on to the stud w; and the frame
slot, as is shown. y is a spring, formed around the frame x.
and spring is placed within the stock, and secured in a sort of case formed by
stitching around it. z is a stud, which has a circular plate affixed on each end
of the stud 3 by riveting; hence, when there is any pressure to the stock, having
a tendency to separate the ends thereof, the spring will offer an elastic resis-
tance thereto. The object of this part of the Invention being to obtain an elastic
connection to the two ends of a stock, in order that the stock may accomodate
itself to varying circumstances, we sometimes prefer to use an elastic strap or
connection of india-rubber web, affixed to one end of a stock, and the other end
being made capable of being affixed by a convenient attachment, such as above
described, to the other end of a stock when placed on the neck; but we do not
confine ourselves to any particular attachment for the end of the elastic strap.
What we claim as the ninth part of our Invention is, the application of an
elastic fastener to the two ends of a stock, as above described.
We will now describe the tenth part of our Invention, which relates to a
mode of constructing catches or fasteners for straps for trowsers.
Figure 24 shows a plan and section of a strap, having a fastener applied
thereto, according to this part of our Invention. Figure 25 shows the
parts separately. On to the strap the plates A, A, are affixed by rivetting
or otherwise. These plates have holes or slots formed therein at A', there
being a groove on either side of each of the slots, as is shewn at A². On

page_text: to the trowsers are affixed the plates B, B, each having a spring catch C
affixed thereto, such spring catches being turned up, as is shown, so as
to enter the slots or openings A', formed in the plate A; in fact, such springs
act like hooks, and securely hold the parts A and B together, till the plate A
is slided sideways, by which the groove on one side of the slit or hole A¹
will raise the hook of the spring out of the slot, and thus release the same.
We would remark, that in place of the parts A being affixed to the straps,
they may be affixed to the trowsers, and the parts B be affixed to the
strap. Or, in place of having the parts A, B, to separate by sliding, as above
explained, an additional plate A may be applied, as is shown at Figure 25*, so
that the catch C, entering between the parts A, A³, will be retained there so
long as the parts be kept in the same line, or nearly so; but, on bending the
strap at the joint A', the parts A, A³, by their elasticity, will give way and
slightly separate, and allow of the catch C being removed.
What we claim as the tenth part of our Invention is, the mode of constructing
the parts A, B, C, as described in respect to Figures 24 and 25, and also the
mode of combining the parts A, A, and C, as shown and described in respect
to Figure 25, and applying them to trowsers and straps, as above described.
We will now describe the eleventh part of our Invention, which relates to
an improvement in breat pins, whereby they may be more securely fastened.
Figure 26 shews a breast pin having our improvement applied thereto,
which consists of the projecting point or guard D affixed to the stem or head
of the pin; the pin being otherwise formed according to any ornamental
design, as heretofore. In using the pin, having the guard D applied thereto,
the pin being forced into the neckerchief or shirt front, so as to come to the
lower part of the projecting guard D, when the point of the guard is to be
raised, and caused to enter the neckerchief or shirt front; by this means, in the
event of the pin being raised with the intent of removing it suddenly, the guard D.
will prevent the removal, and such removal can only be effected by care.
What we claim as the eleventh part of our Invention is, the application of
the guard D to breast pins, as above described.
We will now describe the twelfth part of our Invention, which relates to an
improved loop or eye to be used with hooks in fastening parts of garments.
This improvement has for its object to render the metal eye more to resemble
the eye produced with a needle and thread, so that metal eyes, according to
our present improvement, will lie more closely than the metal ones heretofore
made.
Figure 27 represents improved eyes or loops, the parts a, a, being those
parts over which the thread in sewing passes; and by which the eye is attached

page_text: to a garment, the slightly bent part being that into which the hook takes.
By this construction the eye will be found to lie more close to the garment.
What we claim as the twelfth part our Invention is, the mode of constructing
eyes, as above explained.
We will now describe the thirteenth part of our Invention, which relates to
a mode of making bands for drawers in such manner that they inay be fastened
in various positions.
Figure 29 shews a band for a pair of drawers, and the novelty consists in
applying a series of eyelet holes a, a, a, and hooks b; hence the band being
graduated by a series of rows of holes, the hooks can take into any of such holes
and be retained tightly round the person, rendering strings at the back of the
band unnecessary, or in place of eyelet holes of rings a, a, a, a, may be affixed,
as shewn at Figure 30.
What we claim as the thirteenth part of our Invention is, the mode of
making bands for drawers with a series of rows of eyelet holes or of rings,
as above described.
We will now describe the fourteenth part of our Invention, which relates to
a mode of applying elastic india-rubber straps to children's shoes in place of
the leather or other non-elastic straps heretofore used.
Figure 31 shews a shoe having this part of our Invention applied thereto.
a, a, is a strap affixed to the back of the shoe, and the two ends of the elastic
india-rubber straps are passed to the front of the foot and attached by a hook
and eye, or by other convenient means; by thus applying india-rubber straps to
children's shoes, the shoes will be well kept on the feet, yet offer an elasticity
to the movements of the feet which is very desirable.
What we claim as the fourteenth part of our Invention is, the application of
elastic india-rubber straps to the backs of children's shoes, as above described.
We will now describe the fifteenth part of our Invention, which relates to a
mode of making brace and other buttons by substituting a vegetable substance
in place of bone and ivory heretofore used.
It is well known that in making brace and other buttons from bone
and from ivory, a portion of bone or ivory is taken by the workman and
placed in a suitable chuck of a lathe, and by proper tools he turns the
button to the figure required, and then makes holes for the passage of a
needle and thread in fastening the same to a part of a garment, and
in some cases they have shanks applied thereto; and we mention these
matters in order to state that in making buttons of the vegetable matter
hereafter mentioned, the workman, in shaping the matter, treats it in the same
manner as if it were bone or ivory. The material we use is what is known as

page_text: "ivory nut" or "vegetable ivory," which is now becoming an article of
commerce, and is well known, being part of a nut brought from abroad, and
which we on experiment have found to possess the requisites for manufacturing
of buttons of the descriptions mentioned, and the workman will find that by
turning it into the forms of buttons, and forming the requisite holes there
through in the same manner as heretofore practised when making bone and
ivory buttons, or by affixing a shank into or through such buttons or at the
back of such buttons, a new manufacture of buttons may be made of consider-
able value.
What we claim as the fifteenth part of our Invention is, the application
or adaptation of the matter known as "ivory nut," or "vegetable ivory," in
the manufacture of brace and other buttons with holes formed therein
or with shanks affixed thereto, as above described.
In witness whereof, we, the said Thomas Chambers and Charles Rowley,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-sixth day of
February, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
forty-two.
THOMAS (L.S.) CHAMBERS.
CHARLES (L.S.) ROWLEY.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-sixth day of February,
in the year of our Lord 1842, the aforesaid Thomas Chambers and Charles
Rowley came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknow-
ledged the Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained
and specified, in form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was
stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Twenty-sixth day of February, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-two.