IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING STRAW PLAITS OR. BRAIDS OR OTHER MATERIAL IN STRIPS, INTO HATS OR OTHER ARTICLES
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in
the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for an 'Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINES FOR SEWING STRAW PLAITS OR. BRAIDS OR OTHER MATERIAL IN
STRIPS, INTO HATS OR OTHER ARTICLES." Communicated to him from Charles
Henry Willcox a person resident at New York City; in the County and State
of New York and the United States of America
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 19th December 1882:
"
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING STRAW PLAITS OR
BRAIDS OR OTHER MATERİAL IN STRIPS INTO HATS OR OTHER ARTICLES
munication to me from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in
the County and State of New York and the United States of America
a com-
This Invention has reference to machines for sewing straw plait or braid (or
other material in strips) into hats or similar articles :-
The first part of the Invention comprises improvements for sewing the braid or
strip in such manner that the stitches will not appear on the outer or right side
of the article but will be hidden behind the edge of the overlying braid or strip the
said improvements relating to the special construction of a guide for turning up
the edge of the overlying braid so that the needle can so form the stitches that
when said braid lies flat they will be concealed beneath it they also relate to the
combination of the guide with other elements of the machine.
"
During the sewing operation the machine is acting upon three braids (or over-
lapped portions of the braid) to wit the braid at the outer edge of the work which
may be called the middle braid the underlying or entering braid to be stitched to
the said middle) braid and the overlying or concealing braid that is turned up to
allow the stitching to be performed under the edge thereof The seam is run.
Dmine 0.11

page_text: preferably just within the edge of the overlying or concealing braid and as near as
may be to the inner edge of the underlying or entering braid.
The lateral projection of the turning up guide enters between the upper or
concealing braid and the middle braid and being provided with an inclined surface
it serves to raise and to uphold the edge of the former braid. This projection
extends under the overlying or concealing braid beyond the inner edge of the
entering braid so that between the edge thereof and the work plate of the sewing
machine only the single thickness of the middle braid intervenes while between
the body of the guide and the work plate there is the double thickness of the
middle braid and the entering braid. To accommodate the different thicknesses of
braid and allow the turning up guide to bear at its inner edge against the single
braid without exerting undue pressure upon the double thickness through which
the stitching is to be made the said guide is cut away or inclined on the bottom so
that the extreme edge of the guide projects below the main body thereof.
When the turned up edge is released from the guide it tends naturally to resume
its original position and to fall across the rear of the guide and if the guide is
entirely in front of the needle it is obvious that this tendency is towards bringing
the outer edge under or against the needle and to obviate it the guide must turn
the braid at an angle greater than would otherwise suffice to clear it of the needle
so as allow for the greater or less fall in the braid after it is released from the
guide and before it has passed the needle-According to present Invention this
disadvantageous effect is overcome by constructing the guide so that it well sustain
the upright braid behind as well as in front of the needle and the said braid need
not therefore be upturned more than is required to be clear of the needle. It is
obvious that the turning up could be effected wholly by a guide behind the needle-
The guide or portion thereof behind the needle by entering between the edge of
the upturned braid and the needle thread (when the work is advanced by the feed
prevents the thread from catching in or over the edge of the said braid.
و"
The terms "front" and "rear "used in this provisional Specification refer to the
direction of the feed movement "front" being the direction from which and "rear
the direction towards which the feed moves the work. The terms "inner" and
outer" (applied to the braids) refer to the body of the work which is usually to
the left of the operator "inner" being on that side of said work and "outer on
the opposite side.
"
"
The turning up guide may be carried by or attached to or formed in one with
the presser foot so that when the foot is lifted the said guide is also raised with
it so as to admit of the work being properly placed in position for sewing when
the presser foot and guide are again lowered-The turning up guide by being
carried on the presser foot which bears at other points on the work retains its
proper relation to the work and to other parts of the machine without undue
friction on the braid.
In the present Invention facility for adjusting the work guide independently
of the turning up guide is retained whilst at the same time the two guides (viz the
work guide and the turning up guide) are attached to a common support (the
presser foot proper in contra distinction to an auxiliary presser foot) so that when
once the work guide is adjusted their relative positions are not altered by raising
and lowering. The turning up guide and also the work guide may be formed in one
with the presser foot but in order to facilitate the insertion and removal of the
work and also the manufacture of the machine it is preferred to make them
separate and to attach them to the presser foot The guide or guides for the
entering braid are attached to or carried by the work plate.
In order the better to adapt the presser foot to the work the bottom of the foot
is grooved or cut away behind the turning up guide to receive the upturned edge
of the overlying or concealing braid.
2
The work guide is provided with a separator for keeping the fabrics apart in
their passage to the needle and the presser foot is cut away in front to leave a toe.
between which toe and the work guide the turning up guide is placed. A portion

page_text: of the under face of the presser foot is cut away to receive the upturned braid and
to form a sort of depending rib at the left side or side opposite of the work guide
but the said rib may also be removed if desired. The tail of the turning up guide
is clamped between the work guide and the bottom of the presser foot and is held
from lateral movement by steady pins that project from the presser foot and enter
holes in the tail of the guide The front or operating end of the turning up guide
has immediately fronting the needle a lateral projection which is adapted to enter
between the braids and turn up the edge of the overlying one out of the path of
the needle.
In order to accommodate different thicknesses of material the guide is cut away
so as to leave the guiding surface depending towards the front and side and outer
edge of the lateral projection is the lowest point of the guide being on a level with
the lower edge of the work guide opposite-From the outer edge the lateral pro-
jection rises or inclines upwards the inclined upper surface preferably extending
past and along side of the needle-It is grooved to allow it to pass over the shank
of the needle when raised with the presser foot while the needle is at its lowest
point The portion of the lateral projection behind the needle is the same depth as
the portion in front and forms a continuation thereof It is narrow at the front
and widens towards the rear.
Instead of grooving the turning up guide to enable it to clear the shank of the
needle the shank may be cut away adjacent to the guide the said guide being left
with a straight edge.
The second part of this Invention has reference to a table adapted to be brought
into position to form a continuation of the Sewing Machine work plate or to be
moved out of the way at the will of the operator. It is more particularly designed
for use in the Machines for sewing straw braid into a hat in order to form a support
in sewing to the tip or top of the hat whence, it is technically known as a tip table
but it can be applied to other purposes.
The tip table consists of a plate fixed at one end to a curved supporting arm by
means of a screw and steady pins. This arm is provided at its inner end, with a
hollow boss which fits snugly within a recess in the machine frame and receives a
screw stud which is tapped at its inner end into the Machine frame.
A washer having a grooved or roughened inner fall and provided on its outer
face with lugs is placed and held firmly between the shoulder on the screw stud
and the bottom of the recess and the roughened inner surface of the washer being
pressed against said bottom the said washer is effectually prevented from turning.
Screwed fast on the inner end of the boss is a ring which is notched to receive the
lugs on the washer.
The notches could be made in the boss itself but as this would ordinarily be
made of cast iron in one piece with the supporting arm it is preferable to use an
additional steel ring.
A spring is placed within the boss surrounding the shank of stud and bears at
one end against the underside of the head of the stud and at the other end against
the interior shoulder on the boss. This spring tends to form the boss and
supporting arm inward and when the lugs are in the notches it holds them in
engagement The boss is capable of a small end wise movement on the stud and
within the recess in the machine frame-When the supporting arm is turned the
inclined faces of the lugs act upon the inclined sides of the notches and force the
supporting arm and boss outward against the pressure of the spring. When
the supporting arm is turned a sufficient distance to release the lugs from the
notches it will drop down out of action and when it is turned back the spring
forces the boss with the notches into engagement with the lugs which uphold the
arın and plate until sufficient pressure is applied to compress the said spring and
retract the boss.
A pin holds the washer in place on the screw when the tip table is separable
from the Machine.
The third part of this Invention comprises improvements designed to enable

page_text: straw braid to be united on a sewing machine of any ordinary or suitable con-
struction without the stitches being so clearly apparent on the right side of the
goods and which are more specially applicable to the uniting of that class of braid.
which has the straws twisted at the edge thus leaving a depression or eye in each
straw. By running the seam through these depressions or eyes in the outer over-
lapping edge of the braid the stitches are but little apparent the thread between
the needle punctures lying below the upper surface of the braid along the edge
thereof and being also in part concealed or embedded in the body of the straws.
The distance of the said thread below the top top surface depends upon the size
of the straw and the consequent fineness of the braid-This for the reason that
with coarse braid the sewing can be made relatively nearer the edge and also
because the bent ends of the straws which form the edge of the braid are more
nearly at right angles to the flat surfaces than in finer braid On account of the
twist in the straw whereby the fibres in the eyes or depressions referred to be in
or approximately in the line of the seam the thread being stretched by the tension
and take up of the machine splits the straw until it reaches the cross fibres and to
that extent embeds itself in the straw. In order to sew the braid in the manner
indicated the work guide which is carried by the presser foot in the ordinary straw
hat sewing machines is adjusted closer to the needle than heretofore and to allow it
to act in this position and to be raised and lowered while the needle is in the fabric
a groove is cut in the guiding edge of said work guide.
In carrying out this part of the Invention the presser foot of the sewing machine
the work guide carried by and adjustable on said presser foot the work plate the
guides for the entering braid carried by said work plate and the needle are of the
ordinary construction except that the presser foot is cut away to allow the work
guide to be adjusted closer to the needle and the guiding edge of said work guide
is grooved opposite the needle and is cut away underneath so as to allow the entering
braid to pass freely under it.
The straw braid has a series of depressions or eyes formed along one side by giving
half twist to the straws as they are bent over the edge of the braid.
In sewing the braid the edge which is the overlapping outer edge is guided by
the work guide so that the needle passes through the eyes or depressions so that
parts only of the stitches are visible on the right side of the fabric and these parts
lie below the upper surface of the braid.
The thread between the visible parts of the stitches is embedded in the straw
the straw being split lengthwise of the fibres.
Instead of grooving the guiding edge of the work guide the shank of the needle
could be cut away on the side adjacent thereto which would allow the needle to
operate in the desired approximity to the guiding edge.
"
Articles of straw braid which have been sewed in the manner explained embody
this improvement so that they are readily distinguishable from articles heretofore
known and used They therefore form part of the Invention.
"
This part of the Invention is applicable to chip and other bruid as well as
to straw braid strictly so called that is to straws inade from the stems of cereal
grains.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
19th June 1883.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman " IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING STRAW PLAITS OR
BRAIDS OR OTHER MATERIAL IN STRIPS INTO HATS OR OTHER ARTICLES
" a com
munication to me from Charles Henry Willcox, a person resident at New York
City in the County and State of New York and the United States of America
This Invention has reference to machines for sewing straw plait or braid (or
other material in strips) into hats or similar articles.
i
The first part of the Invention comprises improvements for sewing the braid or
strip in such manner that the stitches will not appear on the outer or right side
of the article but will be hidden behind the edge of the overlying braid or strip
the said improvements relating to the special construction of a guide for turning
up the edge of the overlying braid so that the needle can so form the stitches that
when said braid lies flat they will be concealed beneath it, they also relate to the
combination of the guide with other elements of the machine.
4:
During the sewing operation the machine is acting upon three braids (or
overlapped portions of braid) to wit: the braid at the outer edge of the work,
which may be called the middle braid, the underlying or entering braid to be
stitched to the said middle braid, and the overlying or concealing braid that is
turned up to allow the stitching to be performed under the edge thereof. The
seam is run preferably just within the edge of the overlying or concealing braid
and as near as may be to the inner edge of the underlying or entering braid.
The lateral projection of the turning up guide enters between the upper or
concealing braid and the middle braid and being provided with an inclined surface
it serves to raise and to uphold the edge of the former braid. This projection
extends under the overlying or concealing braid beyond the inner edge of the
entering braid so that between the edge thereof and the work plate of the sewing
machine only the single thickness of the middle braid intervenes while between
the body of the guide and the work plate there is the double thickness of the
middle braid and the entering braid. To accommodate the different thicknesses of
braid and allow the turning up guide to bear at its inner edge against the single
braid without exerting undue pressure upon the double thickness through which
the stitching is to be made the said guide is cut away or inclined on the bottom so
that the extreme edge of the guide projects below the main body thereof.
It is not new to make a turning up guide with a lateral projection to enter
between the braids but it is a new improvement to cut away or otherwise impart
to the underside of the projection the shape indicated.
'
When the turned up edge is released from the guide it tends naturally to
resume its original position and to fall across the rear of the guide and if the guide
is entirely in front of the needle it is obvious that this tendency is towards
bringing the outer edge under or against the needle and to obviate it the guide
must turn the braid at an angle greater than would otherwise suffice to clear it of
the needle so as to allow for the greater or less fall in the braid after it is released
from the guide and before it has passed the needle. In the present Invention this
lisadvantageous effect is overcome by constructing the guide so that it will sustain
he upright braid behind as well as in front of the needle and the said braid need
hot therefore be upturned more than is required to be clear of the needle. It is
bvious that the turning up could be effected wholly by a guide behind the needle.

page_text: The guide or portion thereof behind the needle by entering between the edge of.
the upturned braid and the needle thread (when the work is advanced by the
feed) prevents the thread from catching in or over the edge of said braid.
The terms "front" and "rear" (or their analogues) used' in this Specification
refer to the direction of the feed movement "front" being the direction from
which, and "rear" the direction towards which, the feed moves. the work. The
terms inner" and "outer" (applied to the 'braids): refer to the body of the work
which is usually to the left of the operator "inner" being on that side of said work
and "outer on the opposite side.
"
Heretofore the turning up guide has been attached to and carried by the work
plate of the sewing machine. In the present invention it is carried by or attached
to the pressure foot so that when the foot is lifted it is lifted also and the work
being properly placed when the foot is raised is in position for sewing when the
same is lowered-Moreover being held by the presser foot which bears at other
points on the work it retains its proper relation to the work and to other parts of
the machine without undue friction on the braid. Heretofore also the turning up
guide and the guide for what has been herein called the middle braid have been
independently supported on the work plate. In the case of a turning up guide
attached to an auxiliary presser foot the shank of the latter was adapted to serve
as a work guide but it cannot be adjusted independently of the turning up guide.
In the present invention the facility for adjusting the work guide independently
of the turning up guide is retained while at the same time the two guides are
attached to a common support (the presser foot proper in contra distinction to an
auxiliary presser foot) so that when once the work guide is adjusted their relative
positions are not altered by raising and lowering. The attachment of both the
turning up and the work guide to the presser foot is the arrangement best adapted
to the ready insertion and removal of the work. The guide or guides for the
entering braid are attached to or carried by the work plate.
'
In order the better to adapt the presser foot to the work the bottom is grooved
or cut away behind the turning up guide to receive the upturned edge of the
overlying or concealing braid. As the turning up guide need not alter its position
relative to the needle it may be made in one piece with the presser foot; but for
convenience of manufacture and to allow of renewal in case of wear or injury to
the guide it is made separate and is attached thereto; the means adapted as most
simple and convenient being to clamp the tail piece of the guide between the
presser foot and a portion of the work guide.
The second part of this Invention has reference to a table adapted to be brought
into position to form a continuation of the sewing machine work plate or to be
moved out of the way at the will of the operator. It is more particularly designed
for use in the machines for sewing straw braid into a hat in order to form a support
in sewing to the tip or top of the hat whence it is technically known as a tip table;
but it can be applied to other purposes.
The objections to the ordinary methods of making tips (which this part of the
Invention is designed to overcome) are that in rapid running machines great care
has to be used in keeping the button on the small circle of the tip up to the work
guide so that the needle will stitch through the tip and the entering braid or plait
and in doing this the operator unconsciously crowds the tip up against the work
guide with, more force than is necessary and by so doing as the tip grows in size
it is made to assume à dishing or concave condition so that after the tip is turned
down to sew the crown and after the crown is made the tip will be found to be
concave or dishing and much lower at the centre than at the edge. This serious
defect has to be overcome by what is known as the "setting up." process which
comprises stretching the tip over, a block while wet with a solution of glue water
and the hat is left to dry on the block. After taking the hat off the block if the
tip is found not stiff enough to "stand up" it is further supported by putting in
a tip of paper on the under side of the hat tip with glue and then "set up" again
with a heavy pressure in a hydraulic press. All these operations are expensive

page_text: in time and labour-Now if the tip can be sewed flat from the bottom out to the
edge of the crown the tip will remain flat and render the setting up process
unnecessary. This is accomplished by the flap tip table which serves as a support
to rest the tip upon so that the operator cannot well make the tip concave or
dishing and by the exercise of the slightest care will make every tip nearly as flat
as the tip table itself.
The table is preferably made tilting on a horizontal axis and is up held in position
to form an extension of the work plate by lugs having inclined faces and held in
engagement by a spring so that it can be removed by simple pressure of the
operator's finger upon the table.
The third part of this invention comprises improvements designed to enable
straw braid to be united on a sewing machine of any ordinary or suitable
construction without the stitches being so clearly apparent on the right side of the
goods and which are more specially applicable to the uniting of that class of braid
which has the straws twisted at the edge thus leaving a depression or eye in each
straw. By running the seam through these depressions or eyes in the outer over-
lapping edge of the braid the stitches are but little apparent the thread between
the needle punctures lying below the upper surface of the braid along the edge
thereof and being also in part concealed or embedded in the body of the straws.
The distance of the said thread below the top surface depends upon the size of
straw and the consequent fineness of the braid. This, for the reason that with
coarse braid the sewing can be made relatively nearer the edge, and also because
the bent ends of the straws which form the edge of the braid are more nearly at
right angles to the flat surfaces than in finer braid. On account of the twist in
the straw whereby the fibres in the eyes or depressions referred to lie in or
approximately in the line of the seam the thread being stretched by the tension
and take up of the machine, splits the straw until it reaches the cross fibres and to
that extent embeds itself in the straw-In order to sew the braid in the manner
indicated, the work guide, which is carried by the presser foot in the ordinary
straw hat sewing machines, is adjusted closer to the needle than heretofore and to
allow it to act in this position and to be raised and lowered while the needle is in
the fabric a groove is cut in the guiding edge of said work guide.
In the accompanying drawings the several improvements are shown applied to
or in connection with a sewing machine.
The improvements in the turning up guide and tip table, which constitute the
first and second part of the invention are illustrated in Figures 1 to 12. Figure 1
is an end view partly in section and Figure 2 a front view of the machine
embodying said improvements Figure 3 a section of the presser foot and attached
guides. Figures 45 and 6 respectively represent a plan, a bottom view, and a
perspective view of the work guide detached. Figure 7 a perspective view of the
turning up guide and Figure 8 a section illustrating the operation of the guides and
tip table. Figures 9 and 10 are views in plan and front elevation respectively.
showing a modified form of the turning-up guide and needle, and Figures 11
and 12 partial views in perspective illustrating the means for attaching the tip
table to the machine frame.
The improvements in forming a hidden or practically invisible seam which
constitute the third part of the invention are illustrated in Figures 13 to 16..
Figure 13 shows in plan the tip or top of a straw hat in process of formation, and
the presser foot work guide, cloth plate and braid guides of the machine, the needle
and presser bars being represented in cross section. Figure 14 is an edge view of
a partly formed tip. Figure 15 a perspective view showing two sections of straw
braid stitched together, and Figure 16 a view showing a single straw separated
from the braid.
The machine represented is the Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine adapted to
the sewing of straw braid into hats and on which the present invention is an
improvement.
Referring to Figures 1-12. A is the frame, B the work plate, C the main shaft,,

page_text: D the needle and needle bar, E the presser bar, F the presser foot, G the work
guide, H the turning up guide I, K, L the braid guides or guides for the entering
braid and N the tip table.
The work guide G makes a tongue and groove joint with the presser foot, to
which it is held by the set screw a and spring washer b, and whereon it is adjusted
by the lever c. It is provided with a separator M. The presser foot is cut away
in front to leave a toe d; between which and the work guide the turning up
guide H is placed. On the bottom the presser foot is cut away at e and as shown
a sort of depending rib f is left at the left or side opposite the work guide, but the
said rib f may also be removed.-The tail g of the turning up guide is clamped
between the work guide and the bottom of the presser foot. The cut away portion
serves to receive the upturned braid.
The turning up guide is held from lateral movement by steady pins h that
project from the presser foot through the holes in the tail of the guide: The
front or operating end of the turning up guide has immediately fronting the needle
a lateral projection / which is adapted to enter between the braids and turn up the
edge of the overlaying one out of the path of the needle. At also the material
composing the guide is cut away leaving the guiding surface depending from the
thick portion m'towards the front and side. The edge n of the lateral projection k
is the lowest point of the guide being on a level with the lower edge of the work
guide opposite. From said edge n the bottom rises to the right (see figures 2
and 8). The lateral projection with inclined upper surface preferably extends
past and alongside of the needle. It is grooved at p to allow it to pass over the
shank of the needle when raised with the presser foot while the needle is at its
lowest point. Behind the needle is the portion g of the same depth as the portion m
in front, and, except for groove p forming a continuation thereof. It is narrow at
the front and widens towards the rear.
Instead of grooving the turning up guide to enable it to clear the shank of the
needle the latter may be cut away adjacent to the guide, the said guide being left
with a straight edge. This construction, the equivalent of the foregoing is shewn
in figures 9 and 10.
The operation is as follows:-
The article having been begun the work is placed under the presser foot with the
free edge of the braid last sewed (hereinbefore called the middle braid) against the
work guide G (above the separator M) and the lateral projection k of the turning
up guide is inserted between said braid and the next inner braids (herein-before
called the overlying braid). The work guide is preferably adjusted so that the
needle will penetrate the middle braid just inside the normal position of the over-
lying braids; but if desired the seam can be made a greater distance inside the
edge of said braid s, by adjusting the work guide away from the needle.
Ordinarily the work guide will be separated from the needle by a distance equal
to something less than half the width of the braid. The entering braid t passes under
the guide bar K and between the guides L, I, which are adjusted to allow the needle
to pierce the braid at the desired distance from the edge preferably as near the edge
as possible to make a strong seam.
The machine being started the work is fed to the stitching mechanism and the
edge of the overlying braids being turned up against the portions map of the
guide, the needle penetrates the braid where normally it is covered by
the upturned portion of the braids and stitches it to the braid t. After passing
the turning up guide the edge of the braids resumes its normal position and
conceals the stitches.
The portion g of the guide H is from its shape not liable to catch the needle
thread which slips over and in contact with its side when long stitches are inade.
The tip table N (see figures 1 and 2) consists of a plate fixed at one end to a
curved supporting arm P by means of a screw and steady pins y. This arm P is
provided at its inner end with a hollow boss b' which fits snugly within the counter
bored recess b¹¹ in the machine' frame A and receives the screw stud Q which is

page_text: tapped at its inner end into the machine frame. On this stud between the end of
the boss b' and the bottom of the counterbored recess 6" is a washer c¹ provided on its
outer face with lugs c¹ and on the inner face grooved as shown in figures 11 and 12
or otherwise roughened. When the screw is in place the washer c¹ is held firmly
between a shoulder on the screw stud and the bottom of the recess 6" and the
roughened inner surface being pressed against said bottom the washer is effectually
prevented from turning. Screwed fast on the inner end of the boss b' is a ring e¹·
notched at el to receive the lugs c". The notches e" could be made in the boss
itself but as this would ordinarily be made of cast iron in one piece with the arm P
it is preferable to use an additional steel ring.
A spring R is placed within the boss b₁ surrounding the shank of stud Q and
bears at one end against the underside of the head of the stud and at the other
against the interior shoulder f¹ on boss 6'. This spring tends to force boss b¹
and arm P inward and when the lugs care in the notches e it holds them in
engagement. The boss 61 is capable of a small end wise movement on the stud Q
and within the counterbored recess 6" in the machine frame. When the arm P is
turned the inclined faces of the lugs c act upon the inclined sides of the
notches ell and force the arm P and boss b¹ outward against the pressure of the
spring R. When the arm P is turned a sufficient distance to release the lugs from
the notches it will drop down into the position shown in Figure 1 and indicated by
dotted lines in figure 2 and when it is turned back the spring R forces the boss b¹
with the notches e" into engagement with the lugs c which uphold the arm
P and plate N until sufficient pressure is applied to compress the said spring and
retract the boss.
The pin g holds the washer c¹ in place on the screw when the tip table is
separable from the machine.
In attaching the table to the machine the lugs c" on the washer c¹ are made to
take their position in the notches e¹, the boss b₁ and the screw stud Q are inserted
in the counterbored recess, the plate N is adjusted against the work plate B of
the sewing machine flush with said work plate, and the stud Q is screwed into the
frame securing the washer c' in the position it then occupies. The roughness of the
inner face of the washer prevents it from moving so that when turned up the
plate N always comes to the proper position with respect to the work plate. In
the machine shown as will be seen from the drawing, the work plate is elevated by
the frame above the table or stand on which it is placed.
In operation the tip can be held upon the plate or tip table N and a slight
resistance being applied by the fingers of the operator the entering braid t
(figure 8) is fed along fast enough to enable the tip to be made perfectly flat. As
soon as the tip has been formed a touch of the hand throws the tip plate out of
action and the crown can then be turned down without interference with the tip
table.
Referring to figures 13, 14, 15 and 16 which illustrate the third part of the
invention, A represents the presser foot of the sewing machine, B the work guide
carried by and adjustable ou said presser foot, C the work plate D and D' the
guides for the entering braid carried by said work plate and E the needle. These
parts as shewn are of the ordinary construction, except that the presser foot is cut
away to allow the work guide to be adjusted closer to the needle, and the guiding
edge of said work guide is grooved at a opposite the needle, and that the work
guide is cut away underneath to the right of the dotted line a so as to allow the
party of the entering braid to pass freely under it.
The straw braid is represented by F. Along one edge 6 are a series of
depressions or eyes c formed by giving a half twist to the straws as they are bent
over the edge of the braid. This twist is most clearly shown in figure 16 and the
effect will be apparent by comparing this edge b with the opposite edge d on
which the straws are folded over without twisting. In sewing the braid the edge b
which is the overlapping outer edge is guided by the work guide so that the needle
passes through the eyes or depressions c, as shown in figure 13. The effect of the

page_text: stitching is shown in figures 14 and 15. The parts of the stitches only are
visible on the right side of the fabric and these lie below the upper surface of the
braid. In the form of braid shown, which is very coarse the stitches e lie about
midway of the edge but they could be made higher up or lower down by sewing
farther from or closer to the edge. The thread between the parts e is embedded in
the straw the straw being split lengthwise of the fibres as represented by the dotted
lines f. Instead of grooving the guiding edge of the work guide the shank of the
needle could be cut away on the side adjacent thereto which would allow the
needle to operate in the desired proximity to the guiding edge.
Articles of straw braid which have been sewed in the manner explained embody
this improvement so that they are readily distinguishable from articles heretofore
known and used. They therefore form part of the invention.
This part of the invention is applicable to chip and other braid as well as to
straw braid strictly so called that is to straws made from the stems of cereal
grains.
Inasmuch as the machine to which the above described improvements are applied
is well known and its operation well understood, the description is confined to the
several devices which constitute the present invention.
Modifications may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention
and portions thereof may be separately used. For example the improved turning
up guide may be used in machines other than the kind shown and without the tip
table; or a turning up guide of ordinary construction may be used in a machine
having the other improvements.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the hereinbefore in part
recited Letters Patent is :-
First. A turning up guide having a guiding or upholding portion adapted to
enter between the braids or layers of fabric in the rear of the needle substantially
ns described.
Second. A turning up guide having guiding or upholding portions adapted to
enter between the braids or layers of fabric both before and behind the needle
substantially as described.
Third. A turning up guide having the bottom cut away or inclined upward from
the extreme edge thereof so as to accommodate different thicknesses between the
said edge and the work plate on the one hand and the body of the guide and the
work plate on the other substantially as described.
Fourth A turning up guide having the guiding or upholding portion which enters
Letween the braids arranged alongside and in close proximity to the needle and
adapted by means of a groove in said guide or an equivalent construction to be clear
of the shank of the needle when lifted substantially as described.
Fifth A turning up guide having the lateral projection which enters between
the braids alongside of the needle substantially as described.
Sixth: A turning up guide having the portion behind narrow in front and
widening gradually towards the rear substantially as described.
Seventh A turning up guide carried by the presser foot proper of the machine
in contradistinction to an auxiliary presser foot substantially as described.
Eighth The turning up guide in combination with means for detachably
securing the same to the presser foot proper in contradistinction to an auxiliary
presser foot substantially as described.
Ninth The combination with the ordinary or proper presser foot of the sewing
machine of the turning up guide and the work guide attached thereto or carried
thereby substantially as described.
Tenth The combination with the presser foot cut away in front to leave a
projecting toe, and the work guide of a turning up guide between the said toe and
the work guide and in close proximity to the needle,substantially as described.

page_text: Eleventh The combination with a turning up 'guide of a presser foot recessed
or cut away on the bottom to receive the upturned edge of the braid or 'fabric,
substantially as described.
•
Twelfth The combination with the presser foot and work guide attached
thereto, of the turning up guide having the tail piece thereof clamped between the
work guide and the presser foot substantially as described.
Thirteenth The combination of the presser foot, the turning up guide attached to
and carried by said foot, and the independently adjustable work guide substantially.
as described.
Fourteenth The combination with the presser foot, of the turning up guide
carried by said foot, and having the edge thereof, which enters between the braids
projecting below the bottom of the presser foot substantially as described.
Fifteenth-The turning up guide and the work guide carried and connected by:
a common support so as to be lifted together, said work guide being adjustable
independently of the turning up guide substantially as described.
Sixteenth The turning up guide having guiding or upholding portions both in
front and rear of the needle, in combination with the work guide substantially as
described.
Seventeenth-The combination with a sewing machine having a work plate
raised above the stand on which the machine is placed, of a table supported by an
arm attached to the machine frame as explained, said table being adapted to be
moved up to a level with the work plate or to be moved down out of action by
pressure substantially as described.
Eighteenth-The combination with a sewing machine, of a table adapted to
form an extension of the work plate on the left of the needle or side opposite the
gooseneck and supported by means which permit it to be moved at will into and
out of position as set forth.
Nineteenth-The combination with a sewing machine, of a table moveable into
position to form an extension of the work plate, and capable of being thrown out of
action by pressure as of the operator's hand applied to said table.
Twentieth-The combination with a sewing machine, of a tilting table formed
of a plate a supporting arm attached to and depending from the bottom of said plate,
and means for attaching the arm to the machine frame below the cloth plate of the
machine as set forth.
Twenty first The combination with the supporting arm, the hollow boss
provided with notches, the screw and the spring, of the washer roughened on one
face and provided on the other with lugs adapted to engage said notches as set
forth.
Twenty second-The combination with a sewing machine and the guides for
sewing straw braid into a hat, of a movable tip table adapted, when in action, to
form an extension of the work plate, and to be put into and out of action as
required.
Twenty third-The combination with a frame and an arm having a hollow boss
fitting within a counterbored recess in said frame, of the stud, spring, and lugs
having inclined faces.
Twenty fourth-The combination with the work plate and frame of a sewing
machine, of a tilting table, comprising a plate, a supporting arm with hollow washer
provided with lugs, and a spring.
Twenty fifth-An article of straw braid having the layers united by sewing
machine stitches whereof the thread between the needle punctures on the right side
of the article, lies below the upper surface of the overlapping braid along the edge
thereof, substantially as described.
Twenty-sixth-The method of uniting straw braid by running the seam along
the edges of the overlapping braids below the upper surface thereof so that the
thread between the needle punctures on the right side of the article is concealed or
rendered less apparent substantially as described.
Twenty seventh-In uniting straw braids having eyes or depressions the

page_text: method of concealing or rendering less apparent; the stitches on the right side of
the fabric, by running the seam through said eyes or depressions substantially as
described.
Twenty eighth The method of uniting straw braid having eyes or depressions
on the edge, by overlapping the braids automatically or mechanically; guiding the
same and feeding them to the sewing mechanism, and running the seam through
the eyes or depressions of the upper overlapping braid and the body of the under
braid substantially as described.
Twenty ninth-In a straw braid sewing machine the combination of the work
guide provided with a separator, and carried by the presser foot, with the needle
and other stitch forming mechanism, the said guide being adapted to work in close
proximity to the needle by a groove in said guide or an equivalent construction as
indicated.
In witness whereof I the said John Henry Johnson have to this my
Specification set my hand and seal this fourth day of June One thousand
eight hundred and eighty three.