IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING FIGURED FABRICS, AND ARRANGING JACQUARD APPARATUS USED THEREIN."
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Demas Ellis, and Matthew Hillas, of Dudley Hill,
Bradford, in the County of York, Worsted Manufacturers, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING FIGURED FABRICS, AND
ARRANGING JACQUARD APPARATUS USED THEREIN."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Demas Ellis and Matthew
Hillas at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their Petition,
on the 5th November 1864.
We, DEMAS ELLIS, and MATTHEW HILLAS, of Dudley Hill, Bradford, in
the County of York, Worsted Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of
the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING FIGURED FABRICS
ARRANGING JACQUARD APPARATUS USED THEREIN," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in weaving figured fabrics,
and in arranging jacquard apparatus used therein. For these purposes, in
place of having all the wires or uprights used for lifting the warps of the same
length we employ wires or uprights of two different lengths. We tie the
harness or mounting in the ordinary way to the long wires or uprights,
and to each of the short wires or uprights we tie an additional cord, and
connect it to the cords of the longer wires or uprights, so that when lifting
the warps by the jacquard apparatus those connected to the shorter wires or
uprights will stand above those lifted by the longer wires or uprights, and so
[Price 8d]

page_text: as to leave an open space or shed suitable for the passage of additional orna-
menting shuttles or weft threads between them by the working of the loom.
Any desired number of such ornamenting shuttle or weft threads may be
employed, each producing a like ornamental device in addition to the weft
threads thrown across from selvage to selvage of the fabric. By these means
the fabric produced will have a ground produced by the ordinary action of the
jacquard, and this ground fabric will be further figured or ornamented by the
weft threads introduced into the sheds opened in consequence of the employ-
ment of wires of different lengths. The same action which separates the warp
for the passage of the shuttle from selvage to selvage of the fabric also
separates them for the brocading or additional shuttles, but the warps wefted
by the brocading or additional shuttles are lifted to a greater height than is
necessary for the passage of the shuttle from selvage to selvage.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Demas Ellis and Matthew Hillas, in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 5th May 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, DEMAS
ELLIS and MATTHEW HILLAS, of Dudley Hill, Bradford, in the County of
York, Worsted Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year of
ller reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Demas Ellis and Matthew Hillas, Her special licence that we,
the said Demas Ellis and Matthew Hillas, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as we, the said Demas Ellis and Matthew Hillas,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING
FIGURED FABRICS, AND IN ARRANGING JACQUARD APPARATUS USED THEREIN," upon
the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Demas Ellis and Matthew
lillas. our executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our
or their hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us or them,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said invention,

page_text: and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Demas Ellis and Matthew Hillas, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention. and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
This Invention is applicable particularly to fabrics consisting of a ground
produced by the ordinary action of the jacquard interweaving the warp with a
weft thrown from selvage to selvage, and of a figure produced on such ground
by additional or ornamenting shuttles or weft threads. interwoven with certain
only of the warps. For this purpose the warps with which the ornamenting
weft threads weave, are by the action of the jacquard lifted higher than the
rest of the warps, so as to leave an open space or shed suitable for the passage
of the additional or ornamenting shuttles. The same action which separates
the warp for the passage of the shuttle from selvage to selvage of the fabric,
also separates them for the brocading or additional shuttles, and as before
mentioned. the warps which are raised to be wefted by the brocading or addi-
tional shuttles are lifted to a greater height than is necessary for the passage
of the shuttle from selvage to selvage. In arranging the jacquard apparatus
for weaving figured fabrics in the manner above stated, in place of having all
the wires or uprights used for lifting the warps of the same length, we employ
wires or uprights of two different lengths. We tie the harness or mounting
in the ordinary way to the long wires or uprights, and to each of the short
wires or uprights we tie an additional cord, and connect these to the cords of
the longer wires or uprights, so that when lifting the warps by the jacquard
apparatus. those connected to the shorter wires or uprights (when these are
raised) will stand above those lifted by the longer wires or uprights, and so as
to leave an open space or shed suitable for the passage of the additional
ornamenting shuttles with their weft threads. Any desired number of such
ornamenting shuttle or weft threads may be employed, each producing a like
ornamental device.
:
And in order that our said Invention may be most fully understood and
readily carried into effect, we will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto
annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.

page_text: Figures 4 and 5 are full-sized plan and edge view of a bobbin carriage for
carrying the small bobbins of silk or other material during the insertions
Figures 6. 7. and 8 are half-size section. elevation, and plan of the details of the
parts for working and connecting the bobbin carriages A: Figures 1, 2, and 3
is the framing of the loom: A'. the breast beam: B. B. are intermediate cross
fixings, and B' is a fixing connecting the intermediate cross fixings B, B; C is
the rocking shaft working the slay swords D and D'; E and E¹ are two levers,
one working inside the other, the lower lever E vibrates on the stud F fixed
to the slay sword D. and by which it is carried backward and forward at each
beat up of the loom, consequently the levers E and F have always two
motions at right angles. one due to the slay sword D and the other a vibrating
movement derived from the cam J; a is a fixing working on a stud a¹ fixed on
lower lever E and having an arm projecting, to which is attached a wire b
connected to the jacquard from which it is worked as hereafter shown: b¹ is
an arm projecting from the upper lever E. The upper end of lever E¹ is
fork shaped for catching on to and working the bar G from right to left, and
vice versa by means of the studs c and c¹; d is a spring attached to the lower
lever E for keeping the fixing a in place when not lifted by means of the wire b.
When the fixing a is lifted the upper lever E¹ falls and is disengaged from
the stud c or c¹ fixed on bar G, to which it has been imparting a traversing
motion and remains down until again required to give motion to the bar G at
the insertion of a line of patterns; e is a bracket fixed to breast beam, to
which is attached the stud e¹ for carrying a lever H which is worked by means
of a wire b³ also connected to the jacquard. When a row of patterns requires
to be worked in and the bar G requires its traversing motion, the wire b
attached to the lever H is raised and this lever catching the under side of
arm b' projecting from the upper lever E' raises it until its forked end takes
hold of stud c or c¹ as the case may be, and rising out from the fixing a rests
on the upper ledge, the spring having forced the fixing a back close against
lever E. The lever I then falls leaving the projection b' room to drop at the
completion of the row of insertions.
The levers E and F obtain their constant motion from the rod f. fixed to
the swan necked lever I working on stud bolted to cross fixing B¹. The
lever I obtaining its motion from the cams J working on shaft K, L.
Figures 1, 2, 3, 6, 7 and 8 is a wrought iron or metal bar connecting together
the tops of the slay swords. The ordinary reed batten is dispensed with and
a wrought iron or metal casing L' substituted as being .better suited for the
application of the present Invention; M is a wood beam carried on the
wrought iron bar L by means of the two guides g and g': g is a fixing attached

page_text: to bar L to keep the wood beam M from warping in the centre; h is a
lever working on a stud h¹ fixed to guide g¹. On the upper ledge of bar L
are two notches i and . and the inner end of lever he has a stop for the
purpose of falling into these notches and so holding the wood beam in
position during the insertions of the patterns. On the upper side of guide g¹
is fixed a small bowl working in a stud ; N is a bracket bolted to the
breast beam for the purpose of carrying the two levers k and
working on
stud m; n and n³ are two rods connected to levers and for the purpose of
working them up and down when the wood beam M requires moving a notch
to change the bobbin carriages from one line of insertions to the other alter-
nately. The lower end of rods n and n' are connected to two levers O and O¹.
vibrating on stud o bolted to intermediate cross fixing B. The other ends of
levers and O' are in turn connected by means of two rods p and p¹ to
two levers P and P¹ vibrating on stud o¹ bolted to the cross beam B. and
the two levers P and P¹ are worked from the jacquard by means of two cords;
Figure 4 is a full-sized plan and edge view of a bobbin carriage Q, the upper
surface of which has a rack inserted. The silk or other material is prevented
from unnecessary unwinding by a system of springs one acting against the
bobbin, the other being a spiral spring having a loop at the end through
which the silk or other material is passed, first. passing. through a small glass
bead carried by a thread as shown.
Working inside the wood beam M, Figures 1, 2, 3, 6. 7 and 8, is a rack
M' the whole length and projecting at one end equal to the distance between
the bobbin carriages. The bar G in front of wood beam M has on its inner
face two projections, and the rack M' exactly fills up the length between these
two projections. consequently any motion that exists in the bar G is commu-
nicated to the rack M. On the under side of wood beam M are a series of
small trays q for the purpose of carrying the bobbin carriages Q. the number
of trays exceeding the number of bobbin carriages by one; thus there is
always one tray empty, the outer one either right or left hand.
the wood beam M and working both in the rack M¹ above and in the racks
in the bobbin carriages Q are a series of small spur wheels q¹. Figures 6 and
7, two of which are placed above each tray, thus there are always two working
in each bobbin carriage.
Fixed in
When a row of patterns are being worked in the cloth the bobbin carriages
have a motion from one tray to the other precisely at the same time as the
shuttle is doing its work in the ordinary shed, each carriage making a traverse
under its own shed, the warp threads of which rise midway between the trays
at the same time as the lower and ordinary shed is formed; thus at the com-

page_text: mencement of a row of patterns the extra or higher sheds are formed midway
between the trays at one side of each pattern, and the bobbin carriages passing
under on the warp threads going down the silk or other material is inter-
woven with the ordinary weft. sufficient to insert the pattern only being used
in each case, and others rising up at the other side of each pattern, the bobbin
carriages having again passed under these the motion is continued until the
row is completed when the carriages remain still until necessary to work in the
next row.
.
When the cloth is being wove the patterns of each row are connected
together by a single thread which is cut off as the work proceeds.
We now proceed to describe the means by which the warp threads
forming the series of higher sheds are raised. S. Figures 1 and 2, are the
ordinary vertical wires of the jacquard to which are attached the harness S¹, S'.
T are a series of shorter wires the harness attached to which are also con-
nected to the harness S¹, S¹. r are the trays for lifting the wires, and on
which the hooked upper ends catch, the difference in the length of the wires
being equal to the height required for the extra or higher series of sheds;
hence it is obvious that when the trays r attached to the table U are lifted
any of the short wires that should catch in the trays will be lifted higher than
the ordinary wires S: thus at the insertion of a row of patterns certain of the
warp threads are raised to form a series of higher sheds by means of the
short wires T and the harness T¹, whilst intermediate between each row of
patterns the same warp threads are raised to form the ordinary shed by means
of the long wires S and the harness S¹, S'.
The general action of the loom is as follows:-Before it is necessary to
work in a fresh row of patterns, and supposing the stop or inner end of lever
to be in the notch in bar L, the lever P¹ being raised by means of the
jacquard. the system of rods and levers p', o¹, and n¹ pulls down the lever k¹.
and this first striking the outer end of lever h knocks it out of the notch i' at
the same time the bowl j being brought up by the slay strikes the end of
lever and forces the wood beam M along the bar L until the inner end of
lever falls into notch i when it is in position for a fresh row of insertion;
the same movements take place with the series of rods and levers p. o, and n,
when it is required to work in the alternate row. The shaft K makes one
revolution for two of the crank shaft in giving motion to the levers E and E¹.
Between the rows of insertion, although having the constant motion due to the
cam J and the slay sword, the upper end of the lever E' is disengaged from
bar G, but when the bobbins require the traverse the rod b worked from the
jacquard raises the lever H, and this in turn lifts the upper lever E¹ by means

page_text: of projection b until the forked end takes hold of stud c¹, the lower end
resting on the fixing a, which is held close against lower lever E by means of
spring d; thus the traverse is imparted to the bar G, and from thence com-
municated to the rack M' working the small wheels acting on the racks
inserted in the bobbin carriages. On the completion of the row the rod b, also
worked from the jacquard, lifts the arm projecting from fixing a, and the
upper lever E again falls until the motion is again required in the bar G,
when it is again raised, and catching on the stud c', which in consequence of
the wood beam having changed its position on the bar L takes the place of c¹
in the last arrangement, works the traverse for another row of insertions; w is
a spiral spring on rod w¹ for giving motion to the perforated card cylinder on
which the cards are worked. The object of the spiral spring being as follows:-
On the lever w lifting the rod w' in order to bring the perforated cylinder close
to the frame the spiral spring is compressed, thus when the rod ' is moved
downwards in order to make a quarter revolution of the card cylinder, the
spring causes the cylinder to be held and to linger due to the previous amount
of compression for the purpose of insuring the positive action of all the wires.
What we claim is, first, the producing figured fabrics in the manner herein-
before described, that is to say, with ornamenting shuttle threads working
with certain only of the warp threads, such warp threads when lifted being
raised simultaneously with the warp threads of the ground, but to a greater
height so as to admit of the passage of the ground shuttle and the orna-
menting shuttles at the same time.
We also claim the employment in the jacquard apparatus of long and short
wires or uprights as described, so that the short wires or uprights being taken
first by the trays are lifted to a greater height.
We also claim the method of tying the harness up in double sets as
described, so that one set may lift the warp sufficiently for the passage of the
ordinary ground shuttle whilst the other set lifts it when required to a greater
height sufficient for the passage also of the ornamenting shuttle.
In witness whereof, we the said Demas Ellis and Matthew Hillas, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-first day of April, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
MATTHEW HILLAS. (L.S.)