A New or Improved Machine for Crimping or similarly Treating Pile Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Dec., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 27th Aug., 1898-Accepted, 15th, Oct., 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Machine for Crimping or similarly Treating
Pile Fabrics.
I, WALKER TAYLOR, of Hill Top, Lindley, Huddersfield, in the County of York,
Finisher, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the crimping or like treatment of pile fabrics, more
particularly silk pile fabrics, for the purpose of producing effects on the pile in
imitation of dog skin or less pronounced effects such as are now produced on pile
fabrics by hand labour and resulting from the folding and curling of the fabric
longitudinally and transversely to crease it at short intervals apart throughout so
that when steamed and set and then straightened out, the pile is laid or slightly laid,
twisted, turned or crushed at the creases and gives the effect above named. The
object of my invention is to provide mechanical means for the aforesaid purpose and
thereby dispense entirely with hand labour.
Each
In order to carry out my invention I employ suitable framework in or on which
are journalled two rollers or drums, one of which is the driving roller and has a
series of studs or teeth thereon. The second roller or drum which is preferably of
smaller diameter, may also have a series of teeth or studs thereon corresponding to
those on the driving roller or drum but spaced at shorter distances apart
longitudinally. Around said rollers or drums are passed endless chains arranged
side by side across the full width of the drum and engaging with the teeth thereon.
Each chain is provided with spikes or pins which project on the bottom side through
spaces between a series of plates placed intermediate of each row of pins or through
longitudinal openings or slots in a plate or plates attached to or forming a part of a
covering or shield surrounding and enclosing the drums and endless chains.
chain runs in a separate channel or race which, together with the above named
longitudinal spaces or slots, from the driving roller or drum converge to a suitable
position intermediate of the two drums or rollers and from thence to the smaller
drum extend in a straight line and thus form a contracted neck or end to the
machine. At the feeding end of the machine where the larger drum or roller is
situated and immediately under said drum is a bridge or incline having slots or openings
therein corresponding to and in alignment with those through which the pins on
the chains project. From the bridge and extending under the plate or plates enclosing
the lower portion of the chains to nearly the end thereof is a chamber or space of
suitable capacity to suit the thickness of the fabric, and the depth of the folds
to be made. One end of the fabric is fed to the chamber or space over the
bridge which presses it well on to the pins or spikes on the chains (the ends of said
pins or spikes passing through the slots in the bridge) and from thence the chains
carry the fabric longitudinally forward whereby it is gradually folded, crimped or
crinkled in plaits or longitudinal folds by the converging of the chains. The fabric
is carried forward a short distance along the straight when it leaves or is stripped
off the pins or spikes and is forced or pushed down an inclined channel or
thoroughfare where it is seized hold of and carried forward by a studded or other
רד

page_text: suitable roller covered with india rubber or the like to afford it a grip on the
cloth.
This said roller has a slower motion than the rate of traverse of the chains
whereby the progress of the fabric down the inclined channel is retarded and
the fabric is thus folded crimped or crinkled transversely, the folds or crinkles
being maintained by reason of the confined space in which the fabric has to
progress through the machine. After leaving the studded or like roller the fabric
is conducted to a suitable press or open ended chest, to which steam is admitted
through a perforated plate or shelf on to the back of an endless apron or wrapper
covering the back of the fabric and serving to carry it forward from the studded
roller to said press or steam chest, the said covering preventing direct contact
of the steam with the fabric. The steaming of the fabric fixes the pile in the
condition in which the creasing or folding of the fabric has left it as is well
known.
By means of the machine above described much better results can be obtained
than by hand labour whilst the process or treatment is effected in much less time
and at less expense.
The drum or drums or rollers may be made in segments or sections if desired
and the chains can be suitably constructed and shaped to fit nicely within their
races and adapt themselves to the curvature of the parts. The chains are fenced
off in order that there shall be no liability of the fabric being caught or nipped
between the links. To produce less pronounced effects on the pile the parts may
be adjusted or the speeds regulated to give less pressure to the folds or what is
termed a calf lick.
Dated this 1st day of December 1807
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Huddersfield, Patent Agents.
:
A New or Improved Machine for Crimping or similarly Treating
Pile Fabrics.
I, WALKER TAYLOR, of Hill Top, Lindley, Huddersfield, in the County of York
Finisher, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
This invention relates to the crimping or like treatment of pile fabrics, more
particularly silk pile fabrics, for the purpose of producing effects on the pile in
imitation of dog skin or less pronounced effects such as are now produced on pile
fabrics by hand labour, and resulting from the folding and curling of the fabric
longitudinally and transversely to crease it at short intervals apart throughout so that
when steamed and set, and then straightened out, the pile is laid or slightly laid,
twisted, turned, or crushed at the creases and gives the effect above named.
The object of my invention is to provide mechanical means for the aforesaid
purpose and thereby dispense entirely with hand labour.
In order to carry out my invention I employ suitable framework in or on which
are journalled two rollers or drums, one of which is the driving roller and has a series
of studs or teeth thereon. The second roller or drum which is preferably of smaller
diameter, may also have a series of teeth or studs thereon corresponding to those on
the driving roller or drum but spaced at shorter distances apart longitudinally.
Around said rollers or drums are passed endless chains arranged side by side across
the full width of the drum and engaging with the teeth thereon.

page_text: Each chain is provided with spikes or pins, which project on the bottom side
through spaces between a series of plates placed intermediate of each row of pins or
through longitudinal openings or slots in a plate or plates attached to or forining a
part of a covering or shield surrounding and enclosing the drums and endless
chains. Each chain runs in a separate channel or race, which together with the
above named longitudinal spaces or slots, from the driving roller or drum, converge
to a suitable position intermediate of the two drums or rollers, and from thence to
the smaller drum extend in a straight line and thus form a contracted neck or
end to the machine. At the feeding end of the machine where the larger drum or
roller is situated, and immediately under said drum is a bridge or incline having
slots or openings therein corresponding to and in alignment with those through
which the pins on the chains project. From the bridge and extending under the
plate or plates enclosing the lower portion of the chains to nearly the end thereof,
is a chamber or space of suitable capacity to suit the thickness of the fabric and the
depth of the folds to be made. One end of the fabric is fed to this chamber or
space over the bridge which presses it well on to the pins or spikes on the chains (the
ends of these pins or spikes passing through the slots in the bridge) and from
thence the chains carry the fabric longitudinally forward, whereby it is gradually
folded, crimped, or crinkled in plaits or longitudinal folds by the converging of the
chains. The fabric is carried forward a short distance along the straight, when it
leaves or is stripped off the pins or spikes and is forced or pushed down an inclined
channel or thoroughfare, where it is seized hold of and carried forward by a studded
or other suitable roller covered with india-rubber or the like to afford it a grip on the
cloth. This said roller has a slower motion that the rate of traverse of the chains,
whereby the progress of the fabric down the inclined channel is retarded and the
fabric is thus folded crimped, or crinkled transversely, the folds or crinkles being
maintained by reason of the confined space in which the fabric has to progress
through the machine. After leaving the studded or like roller the fabric is conducted
to a suitable press or open ended chest, to which steam is admitted through &
perforated plate or shelf on to the back of an endless apron or wrapper covering the
back of the fabric and serving to carry it forward from the studded roller to said press
or steam chest, the said covering preventing direct contact of the steam with the
fabric. The steaming of the fabric fixes the pile in the condition in which the creas-
ing or folding of the fabric has left it as is well known.
Such being the nature and object of my said invention, I will now proceed to
describe the same fully, and for this purpose, reference is hereafter had to the annexed
drawings forming a part of this specification, in which :-
Fig. 1 is sectional side elevation of my improved crimping machine, taken on
line 1-2 of Fig. 2;
Fig. 2 is elevation of the feeding end of the machine, looking in the direction of
arrow 3, Fig. 1;
Fig. 3 is plan view of the chain carrying rollers, chains, and chain races, as seen
from the underside.
Figs. 4 and 5 are details hereafter referred to.
In the drawings letter a represents the side frames of the machine and b and c two
rollers or drums mounted on shafts b, c, journalled at each end in bearings in said
side frames, & represents a series of endless chains having pins d¹ secured thereto,
said chains being placed on the rollers b, c, and traversed around same by the driven
roller b, which for this purpose is provided circumferentially with teeth or studs e
placed at short intervals apart from end to end of the roller and engaging with the
corresponding endless chains. The rollers b, c are mounted at different heights in
the machine, in order to place the lower halves of the chains d at an angle inclining
downward from front to back, this however being of no importance beyond securing
ease of working and delivery of the fabric.
The roller c runs loosely in its bearings and is preferably plain and of smaller
diameter than the roller b; but, if required, said roller can be provided with studs or
teeth, or fluted longitudinally so as to engage with the chains d.

page_text: In travelling from the underside of roller b to the underside of roller c the endless
chains are caused to pass through separate and independent chain races or channels f
placed intermediate of the rollers and centred on studs which are passed through
a plate g supported above the chain races by cross bars h, h¹, and secured in
position by cotters or like means, said chain races from the feeding to the delivery
end, converging to the centre or approaching each other.
Each chain race is provided on its underside with a longitudinal slot or opening f
(see Fig. 3 and enlarged transverse section Fig. 4) to receive the pins on the
endless chains which project through same some little distance to carry the fabrie
forward under the chain races.
The rear ends of the chain races are supported from the fixed partition or plate g
by sliding blocks i resting thereon and adapted to be slided transversely or laterally
by screws having right and left hand threads thereon which work through screw
threaded openings in the blocks, said screws being actuated by milled dises or wheels j¹³,
or by a screw key, from the side of the machine. Slots are formed in the plate g
to receive lugs projecting from the undersides of the blocks i, and allow of the lateral
inovement of said blocks and slots are also provided in the chain races to allow for
their radial movement when adjusted to vary the degree of convergence of said chain
races.
The blocks are arranged in pairs, those connected to corresponding chain races on
each side of the central stationary chain race being actuated by the same screw (as
illustrated in Fig. 3) in order that the difference of adjustment which each corre-
sponding pair of chain races demand to place them at equal distances apart may be
accurately given.
The chains d, in passing on to the roller b, enter slots or openings k in a fence or
guardpartially surrounding the said roller and fixed to the framework a, or
forming a part thereof, such slots or openings bringing the chains, which travel from
roller at an angle, into the straight, prior to being engaged by the teeth e and
maintaining them in position and central with the said teeth in passing around the
.roller.
Below the roller b is a curved plate or bridge having slots formed therein
opposite each endless chain, and under said bridge is a roller m having spikes or pins
thereon which project through the slots at the front of the bridge and pass clear of
same on reaching the top thereof. The apex of the bridge or curved plate is carried
nearly to the face of the chains, leaving sufficient space between to allow the fabric
to pass through. From the bridge / and extending under the chain races f to near
the ends thereof is a chamber or space n of suitable capacity to accomodate the
thickness of fabric dealt with, and the depth of the folds to be made, said chamber
being contracted in depth at the feeding end, and deepening or widening slightly
from thence to the delivery end.
Hinged at o to the floor of the chamber n, and at p to studs fixed to the framing
or to brackets at each side of the machine, are two plates, boards or frames o¹ and pl
respectively, which are held at a distance apart approximately equal to the depth of
the rear end of chamber n by means of laterally adjustable side pieces 9 (see Fig. 5
which is end elevation of same). The said side pieces slide in ways in the plate ol
and are adapted to be moved toward or away from each other to suit the width of
fabric, by right and left hand screws r working through nuts r¹ extending through
slots in the plate p¹ and attached to the side pieces. The space between the plates o¹
and p', forms a second chamber or thoroughfare leading from the chamber n to
the winding-on shaft 8. Mounted on the stud o is a roller o² over which pass three
or other suitable number of tapes or straps 03 driven by and from a roller t on the
main driving shaft t¹ of the machine, said tapes travelling down over the plate o¹ and
around a roller o*, carried by arms 05 bolted to the plate o¹ or to the adjustable side
pieces, in which latter case said roller is made telescopic to adjust its length;
u is a roller mounted loosely in open bearings in brackets bolted to the framework a
at the rear of the machine and having wound thereon a length of canvas u¹ to serve
for the whole piece or pieces of fabric to be wound upon the shaft S; in some cases
L

page_text: two or more pieces being secured together end to end to form a continuous length.
The outer end of the canvas is passed over a small guide roller secured in an opening
in the plate p¹ then drawn down between the plates p¹ and o¹ and is finally wound
a few times around the shaft s. The required tension is put upon the canvas by:
means of a brake strap v passing round the periphery of a brake pulley v¹ on the end
of roller u and secured at one end to a fixed stud and at the opposite end to a
screw 2 carried by a bracket bolted to the framework and actuated by nut v³.
The chain driving roller or drum b derives its motion by spur gearing w from the
shaft of roller m, which is driven by strap and pulley w¹ from the main driving
shaft t¹. A second pulley w² on said main shaft gives motion through strap and
pulley w³ to the shaft s which rotates at a slower speed than the chain roller b.
The action of the machine is as follows:-
The fabric, represented by letter x is fed to the machine as indicated by the arrow"
in Fig. 1, and with its pile or face side toward or against the bridge 1. The pins on
roller m pierce the fabric as it passes to the bridge and carry it upward to the top.
thereof where it is delivered to the pins d¹ on the endless chains d which pierce
through the foundation or backing of the fabric as the pins on roller m pass clear.
thereof.
In travelling over the bridge the fabric is pressed thereby up to the roots of the:
pins d', the ends of which meanwhile project into the slots 1. The contracted end
of the chamber n also serves to keep the fabric well up to the pins d¹. The chains d
now carry the fabric forward from the bridge through the chamber n, and as they
converge or approach each other in travelling through the chain races from the roller b to
roller c, such fabric is gradually drawn up or gathered into longitudinal folds or
creases between each chain. On reaching the delivery end of the chamber n, the
fabric is stripped off the pins d' by the plate p¹ and turned into the second chamber.
or thoroughfare between said plate and the plate o¹, the pressure of the fabric from
behind forcing it down said thoroughfare through which it is carried between the
tapes 03 and the canvas u³, its rate of traverse, after leaving the chamber n being
retarded and consequently causing the longitudinally creased fabric to be folded or
creased transversely throughout its length.
A studded roller p² or a roller covered with indiarubber, or otherwise suitably
clothed to afford a grip on the cloth, is employed to assist the fabric forward on
leaving the chamber n, this roller being carried by the plate p', and either rotated by
the traverse of the fabric or driven from the main shaft t. The pressure of the tapes
and canvas on the fabric maintains the transverse and longitudinal folds or creases,
and they convey said fabric to the shaft s upon which it is wound between intervening
layers of the canvas u¹.
The shaft 8 is hollow and perforated and is coupled at one end by a union joint to
a steam supply pipe. When the whole of the fabric has been wound on to the shaft 8,
steam is admitted thereto from the steam supply pipe, said steam issuing through
the perforations and steaming the whole fabric, which fixes the pile thereof in the
condition in which the folding or creasing has left it as will be understood by those
conversant with the art. The canvas u¹ prevents direct contact of the steam with
the fabric. The shafts which is removeable from the machine, is provided with
adjustable flanges which can be set at any distance apart to suit the width to which
the fabric will be contracted by the longitudinal folds.
As the diameter of the fabric wound upon the shaft s increases, it engages and
bears against the roller of and raises the plate or frame o¹ and likewise the plate p¹
on their hinges to the full diameter, thus keeping them lineable with the direction of
the fabric in passing to the shaft 8.
To give a fine crimp or a coarse crimp, or what is technically known as a calf lick,
the chain races are adjusted to bring them closer together at their rear ends, or
move them further apart, which consequently causes the chains to draw the folds
of the fabric closer together or otherwise as the case may be and give the variation
in effect which is desired.

page_text: By means of the machine above described much better results can be obtained
than by hand labour, whilst the process or treatment is effected in much less time
and at less expense.
The chain driving roller or rollers or drums may be made in segments or sections if
desired and the chains suitably constructed and shaped to fit nicely within their races
and adapt themselves to the curvature and angles of the parts. The chains being fenced
off from the fabric prevents the latter from being nipped or caught between the
links.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The machine for crimping and similarly treating pile fabrics, constructed,
arranged, and operating substantially as herein shewn and described.
2. In a crimping machine, the combination of a pair of chain rollers such as b, c,
a series of endless chains passing around same and having pins secured thereto, said
chains converging on their lower path from the feeding to the delivery end of the
machine to fold or gather up the fabric in longitudinal folds and the means for
feeding the fabric to the chains and impaling it on the pins thereon, all substantially
as herein shewn and described.
3. In a crimping machine, the combination with rollers b, c, endless chains d
having pins d¹ thereon, adjustable pivotted chain races f, the means for adjusting
said chain races and for feeding the fabric into the machine, and a chamber n under
said chain races, of the means for folding or crimping the fabric transversely or
across its width, substantially as herein shewn and described.
4. The general arrangement, construction, and combination of the several parts
comprising the herein described machine for folding, creasing, or crimping pile
fabrics longitudinally and transversely at short intervals apart throughout the length
of the piece and steaming and fixing the pile in the condition in which such treatment
leaves it, substantially as herein shown and described.
Dated this 26th day of August 1808
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Patent Agents, Huddersfield, Agents for Applicant.