Improvements in Graduated Patterns for Cutting Dress-bodices.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 31st May, 1899-Accepted, 30th Dec., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Graduated Patterns for Cutting Dress-bodices.
We, WILLIAM GAUNT, JANE ANN GAUNT, and JOHN GAUNT, all of Scarisbrick
Avenue, Southport, in the County of Lancaster, Dress Cutters, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to graduated patterns for the cutting out of dress bodices
and is designed to provide a pattern which will be more readily or easily followed
by the person using it and from which a better fitting garment can be produced
than from any pattern hitherto prepared.
It will be fully described with reference to the accompanying drawings:-
Fig. 1 is a graduated pattern for front of dress bodice.
Fig. 2. Graduated pattern of side quarter fitting next to the front.
Fig. 3. Graduated pattern of side quarter fitting next to the back.
Fig. 4. Graduated pattern of back of dress bodice.
Fig. 5. Graduated pattern of top or upper side of sleeve.
Fig. 6. Graduated pattern of under side of sleeve.
Fig. 7. Graduated pattern of back and the side quarter in one with the curved
side seams indicated.
Fig. 8. Graduated pattern of back for folded cloth without a seam in centre
of back.
Each part of the pattern comprises a number of graduated lines set at different
distances apart for the different measurements corresponding with the length
width or other dimensions.
In the front part shown in Fig. 1, are a number of graduated front hem
lines a-a, b, c, dd, and e-e graduated to correspond with the measure-
ment of the wearer round the bust and at the back are a number of back
or first under arm seam lines f--f, g -g, h-h, --i, kk graduated in proportion
to the front hem lines and also to correspond with the bust measurement. Each
set of these lines a—a, b—b, c—c, d-d, e--e, and f-f, g-g, hh, i-i, k--k
are marked by figures which indicate and together form the scale for bust measure-
ment. The back lines join the arm lines and are continued up to meet the
shoulder seam lines. The front hem lines and the shoulder lines join the neck
line m-m.
A graduated pattern with a graduated scale of measurements both
front and back is thus formed with only one neck line m--m. The arm hole lines
and the shoulder lines are graduated according to the bust measurements. The
graduated front hem and shoulder lines determine the length of the neck
line mm without a special measurement of the neck being taken. The line
corresponding with each bust measurement may be printed in a different colour
thus the lines - b-b and corresponding arm hole and shoulder lines may be
printed in the same colour to facilitate cutting.
Across the front hem lines are placed a scale of Figures, 17, 18, 19, 20 and 21
which indicate the measurements for the length of the front and across the
back lines are placed a scale of Figures 14, 15, 16, 17 which indicate the back
lengths

page_text: The waist of the bodice is formed by one or two pleats called darts which are
stitched up and these are marked at o and with a scale of Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, and 7 the correct one being determined by the diagram which comprises two
sets of diagonal lines r running at right angles to and intersecting one another at
various points. These lines are numbered at one end from 32 to 40 corresponding
to the scale of bust measures and at the other end from 18 to 30 corresponding
with the scale of waist measurements. Thus a vertical line from the point where
36 bust line crosses 22 waist line indicates dart or pleat 5 to be taken up.
By having the differential spacings of the front hem lines a--a to e--e accord-
ing to the bust measurements in addition to such spacings at the back lines a
differential spacing is given between the front hem line and the first dart.
In the side quarter fitting next to the front as shown in Fig. 2, at one side
is a line for the first under arm seam corresponding to the back line or under
arm seam of Fig. 1. At the top the graduated scale of lines is marked from 32
to 40 according to the scale of bust measurements and these lines correspond with
the under arm lines of Fig. 1, and at the other side are lines connecting with the
arm lines figured according to the scale of waist measurements 18 to 30. The
transverse scale of lines are figured according to the scale of back length measure-
ments 14 to 17.
In the side quarter fitting next to the back as shown in Fig. 3 the graduated
pattern has armhole lines at the top marked to correspond with the bust scale
measurements 32 to 40. From the lower points s of the armhole lines extend
the centre seam lines marked to correspond with the scale of waist measure-
ments 18 to 30. From each point s dotted or broken lines are drawn backwards
and forwards to indicate a scale both larger and smaller than what is considered
the standard size of waist corresponding with the indicated size of bust. Thus if
the waist be abnormally large or small in comparison with the bust the garment
may be cut accordingly. The transverse lines marked 14 to 17 indicate the back
length measurements. From the top or upper points of the armhole lines extend
the back lines which terminate at the point where the back length measure-
ments begin.
In the back part shown in Fig. 4 a single curved line u indicates the back part
of the neck, a number of graduated shoulder lines extend from the neck line
and meet the armhole lines marked 32 to 40 being the scale of bust measurements.
The armhole lines and the shoulder lines are graduated according to the bust
measurements. The graduated shoulder lines determine the length of the neck
line without a special neck measurement being taken. From the armhole lines
number of curved lines extend downwards marked 18 to 30 a scale of waist
measurements and meet the transverse lines marked 14 to 17 the scale of back
length measurements. From the lower point of the armhole lines extend the
seam lines marked to correspond with the scale of waist measurements 18 to 30
and from the lower point of each of the armhole lines 32 to 40 dotted or broken
lines are drawn backwards and forwards to indicate a scale both larger and
smaller than what is considered the standard size of waist. Thus if the waist be
abnormally large or small in comparison with the bust the garment may be cut
accordingly.
In the upper part of the sleeve of the graduated pattern shown in Fig. 5 the
curved top lines are marked 12 to 16 indicating the scale of measurements from
the shoulder to the elbow and the curved side lines are marked 9 to 13 indicating
the scale of width measurements round the elbow and the bottom lines are marked 7
to 9 indicating the scale of measurements from the elbow to the waist.
In the under part of the sleeve of the graduated pattern shown in Fig. 6 the
curved top lines are marked 12 to 16 indicating the scale of measurements from
the elbow to the shoulder. The curved side lines are marked 9 to 13 indicating
the scale of measurements round the elbow and the bottom lines are marked 7
to 9 indicating the scale of measurements from the elbow to the waist.

page_text: In Fig. 7 is shown a modified graduated pattern of back and side quarter fit-
ting next thereto in one comprising the two parts in one which are shown in
Figs. 3 and 4 and are described in reference thereto. From this the garment may
be cut with the back and side quarter in separate parts or in one piece as may be
desired.
In Fig. S a back part of graduated pattern is shown shaped similarly to that
described with reference to Fig. 4 with the exception that the back line wis
straight to cut the back of the garment double from a folded cloth without a
seam in the middle of the back.
In all or any of these graduated patterns the lines may be made in different
colours or of different markings to illustrate standard or average sizes and there-
by aid the operator in selecting such as represent standard or average measure-
ments throughout as an example the lines representing a bust measurement of
86 a waist measurement of 26 and a back length measurement of 15 will be of one
colour or one form of marking throughout the set.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. The graduated dress patterns having the improvements substantially as des-
cribed and shown.
2. Either of the parts of the graduated pattern for dress bodices shown in
Figs. 1 to 8, having the improvements substantially as described and shown.
Dated this 6th day of May 1899.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester, Patent Agents.