IMPROVEMENTS IN STITCHING, AND MACHINERY AND APPARATUS CONNECTED THERE- WITH
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in
the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
Sealed the 13th October 1854, and dated the 18th April 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 18th
April 1854.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN STITCHING, AND MACHINERY AND APPARATUS CONNECTED THERE-
WITH," to be as follows:-
My said improvements consist of, first, a novel mode of stitching, which T
perform with two threads, and which threads with two needles are above or
on one side of the material, the thread being placed upon bobbins in any
suitable part of the machine. The needles I employ have an eye near the
point, and are fixed in or secured to separate rods or slides, which are actuated
by means of suitably cut cams, through the intervention of levers, such cams
being placed upon the driving or other suitable shaft of the machine, which,
with a bracket or arm for carrying the slides or rods, with their needles and
other mechanism, are secured to a common framing or bed plate. The material

page_text: to be stitched is travelled on the bed plate of the machine and underneath the
needles referred to by any of the well-known means already in use. The ope-
ration is as follows:-Assuming the material to be underneath the needles on
the bed plate, and the ends of the threads, two being employed, passed through
the eye of each needle, that is, one end of each thread passed through a
separate needle: one of them, say No. 1, is then caused to descend into the
material, carrying its thread in a doubled state with it; it is then caused to
'return slightly, when the other needle No. 2, with a portion of its thread, is
made to descend in a similar manner, but in its descent it passes between No. 1
needle and a portion of its thread. No. 1 is now withdrawn, but by the means
and action above described, its thread, in the form of a loop, is over or around
the point of No. 2 needle, and retains it until No. 1 again descends, and in
doing so passes between No. 2 needle and a portion of its thread, and secures
a loop in a similar manner; the operation is then repeated, and in this manner
I perform the stitch referred-to.
Another part of my Invention, and which is also applicable to other
descriptions of stitching, and stitching machinery, consists of giving the neces-
sary pull to the thread or filament for tightening the loop or stitch, and which
I perform by means of a nipper or other mechanical equivalent for the
purpose, instead of making the needle perform such operation. One mode. of
performing this operation is as follows:-Supposing the needle to be returning
out of the material and its point slightly above it, a small pair of nippers or
plyers are caused to take hold of the thread in the manner herein-after
described, and made to ascend with a slight side motion at the same time as
the needle, and pull the thread and tighten it; by this means the eye of the
needle does not chafe the thread during the operation of pulling or tightening.
The plyers are held together or closed by means of a spring, and are opened by
a pin fixed in the needle slide, or rod in its descent, by acting upon one of its
sides or arms, such side being so formed as to give the necessary motion when
the pin acts upon it. The plyers are connected to the needle or rod slide, and
travel partially with it, but may, if thought desirable, be placed in a separate
slide; and instead of a plyers, as referred to, an arm-may-be placed upon a
centre in the slide, and its end made to come against a fixed piece in the slide,
and the thread nipped and pulled between them at the required time by
means of a pin acting against an incline upon or formed in the arm referred
to; and although I have described this tightening arrangement as being above
the material and on the side which the needle is actuated; it is evident that
it can be arranged upon the opposite side, and when such method is adopted I
prefer to use the tightener laterally, and which may be done by a wedge-

page_text: pointed instrument forcing the loop or a portion of the thread against another
piece or instrument against which a spring acts. The point of this instru-
ment may be notched at its end, or is so forced against the wedged instrument
when it comes in contact with it, that the thread is held between the two by
means of friction, and travelled in the same direction; the tightening action
being so obtained, a small roller coming in contact with the moveable instru-
ment will serve to obtain the same result.
Another portion of my Invention consists of the use and adaptation of a
segmental slide, to which I impart reciprocating motion by means of a lever
connection and cam, and which arrangement is for the purpose of actuating
the needle rod or slide and parts connected therewith.
Another portion of my Invention consists of placing the glass which covers
and presses upon the material directly where the needle acts in the end of a
tube or circular part, which tube moves upon the lower part of the arm of the
machine and forms its socket, upon which it slides up or down, as required.
Another part of my improvements consists of placing or securing stitching
machines in or on ornamental tables, or such tables or frames as would be orna-
mental and useful, in a furnished apartment; such tables or frames not being
intended merely for holding the, machine, but also to form an article having
seemingly for its object a different purpose, such, for example as a lady's
work table, or loo, chess, or card table, but such being substantially for holding
the machine and forming a suitable framing or stand for it; and I prefer to
form such tables or stands in such a manner that the machine can be covered
or hid when desired, and which I perform by having the top moveable and the
ŝides hinged, so as to fall down and render access to the machine for being
operated upon convenient; or the top of the table may be formed in two or
more pieces on hinges, but which will fold or fall down by the side when
desired; or the top framing of the table may be made or formed so as to slide
vertically while the top is moveable, and thus allow proper access to the
machine for the purpose of being operated upon; and I propose to work or give
motion to machines so placed by means of a weight or spring, and prevent
too rapid.a motion, or regulate the motion or speed by an escapement or friction
disc.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 18th
October 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIAN
BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by. Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Julian Bernard, Her special license that I, the said Julian Bernard, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Julian
Bernard, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN STITCHING, AND
MACHINERY AND APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," upon the condition (amongst
others), that I, the said Julian Bernard, by an instrument in writing under my
hand and scal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
• NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement,
reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and
figures. marked thereon, that is to say:
The Invention relates to a certain novel mode, arrangements, and modifica-
tions of parts for tightening the stitch and actuating the needle in stitching
machines, and a mode of inserting such needles into and through the material;
and also to combining stitching machines with or in ornamental tables, and
the manner of constructing such tables. But that the nature of my improve-
ments and the mode of working them nay be fully understood, I will proceed
to describe the Drawings hereto annexed, the various Figures of which the
same letters are used to indicate corresponding parts.

page_text: DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1, Sheet 1, is a front elevation of an instrument I employ for pulling
the thread and tightening the stitch. The application of this instrument is
shewn at Fig. 2, where it is presented in side elevation and marked A. Fig. 3
shews a portion of each side of the points or jaws of the tightener, the
thread being shewn between them. B, Fig. 1, forms one side or arm of the
tightener, and C the other, and are connected together by and at the centre
pin D. E, E, are bearings, in which the instrument is free to move vertically.
F is a spring, which may be of india-rubber, for the purpose of keeping the
instrument pressed near the material. The bearings E, E, are screwed into
the bracket B, Fig. 2, and connects the instrument to the rod C carrying the
needle or cranked pin I in this rod, during its ascent and descent, imparts a
compound motion to the tightener, by coming in contact with it at the incline
part F and stop G; its action is as follows:-The needle rod is shewn as
having inserted the needle into the material in the course of its descent; the
pin I, by acting upon the inclined edge at F¹, has had the effect of parting
the jaws of the tightener, so as to leave room for the needle and thread to
pass between them and into the material; when the needle rod is raised up
until the point of the needle is above and clear of the jaws of the tightener,
the pin I ceases to act upon the projecting part F1, and the part H, which is
steel, and acts as a spring, now presses the end of the arm C against the
opposite jaw, holding the thread tight between them, as shewn at Fig. 3.
As the rod further ascends, the pin I comes in contact with the stop G,
and raises the instrument the distance of its further travel; the rod is
again made to descend, and the operation repeated. The peculiar feature and
novelty of this portion of my Invention consists of tightening the stitch, by
pulling that portion of the thread which is between the eye of the needle and
the material, when such material is being stitched by an endless thread or
threads, and by which means I get rid of the injurious friction caused by
the constant pulling of the thread by the needle and through its eye.
Figs. 2, 4, and 5, at Sheet 1 of the Drawings, illustrate a novel mode and
means I employ for imparting motion to the needle rod or slide, in which it
may be secured, and consists of an arm, slide, or rod, moving or travelled in
the course or direction of its own circle or circumference, and inserting the
needles in the material, and travelling them in the same manner by means of
an intermediate rod actuated by a circular or semicircular slide. Figs. 2, 5,
illustrate two modifications of this portion of my Invention, and Fig. 4 shows
a section of the travelling slide, and the manner in which it is secured in the

page_text: stationary segment. Fig. 2 exhibits an arrangement I propose to employ
for giving motion to a straight needle, where J marks a bed plate, to
which is secured K, an arched bracket, the part L of which formis a seg-
ment for the slide M to travel in; the necessary motion is communicated to
the needle through the connection N, slide M, and rod C, in which a needle
is shewn secured. Fig. 5 illustrates another modification of the segmental
or' semicircular slides, in which the principle and its advantages are moro
clearly illustrated and developed: A is a bed plate, with a portion cut away to
clear the view; B represents the segmental stationary part, which partly
projects through the bed plate, and secured to it as shewn; C is the slide or
moveable arm, in which is secured the needle D, as shewn, and secured by tlie
pin E; the lever E is placed loose upon a stud F; E has a slight slot formed
in it at G, in which the pin H takes, and which pin is fixed in the slide or
arm C; I is a pin fixed in E, and passing into the groove of the cam K,
which is secured on the shaft L, and actuated by giving motion to the fly
wheel; in some instances I propose to make the lever or connection E a portion
of or secure it fast to the slide or arm C, and place the centre on a pin-at N,
which is the true centre around which the arm or slide moves or reciprocates,
and that portion of the arm which is visible or above the table. I make its
curve form an outline equidistant or nearly so to the centre, from which or on
which I give it motion, or the centre from which the segment has been struck,
in which it moves; and it is giving this reciprocating motion to or in combina-
tion with a circular or semicircular arm or slide, the curve or form of which
corresponds or nearly so with a circular line described from the centre, on
which the arm receivés motion, or from that which the segmental part in
which the slide or arm is travelled; as described; whether such curved or semi-
circular arm is moved from, on, or near a centre corresponding or nearly so
with its outline or form, as referred to, or the same be moved in a segment, as
illustrated, that constitutes the principal feature in this part of Inven-
tion, together with the general arrangements exhibited and described for
carrying the same into effect; and as I do not limit or confine myself to the
application of these last-mentioned improvements to any special machine,
-I do not think it necessary to show any arrangements or parts which are not
novel, except such as I find necessary for illustration, as a practical man will
readily see that my improvements can easily be adapted to many of the well-
known arrangements at present in use for feeding or travelling the material,
and other operations necessary in stitching or sewing, whether the same is
performed by one or more threads.
my
Fig. 1, on Sheet 2 of my Drawings, represents a side elevation of an orna-

page_text: mental table, having.a stitching machine concealed therein; Fig. 2 is a partial
longitudinal vertical section of the same, shewing the position of the stitching
machine and gearing for driving the same concealed inside the table; Fig. 3
is a partial transverse section of the table; and Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 7, represent
different modifications of hinged or moveable tops or covers of such tables and
machines. A is the main support of the table, which support and table may be
of any desired ornamental design. The machine B is secured to the lower or
machine-supporting table C, which is fixed on to the top of the support A.
A moveable top D and sides E, E, fitted on to the machine-supporting
table C, thereby.effectually concealing the machine itself, whilst to all outward
appearance the table is merely an ornamental piece of furniture. When the
machine is required for use, the moveable top and sides D and E are removed
or turned down, and the machine left exposed on the lower fixed table C,
ready for work; and I propose making the tops of tables in which I place
stitching machines diced, so as to form a chess or draught board. In Figures 1,
2, and 3 of the Drawing, the moveable top and sides are represented as made
to lift off, as shewn, but. this arrangement may be modified in various ways;
for example, the top of the table may be hinged to the sides as at A, in
Figures 4, 5, 6, and. 7, and made to open across the centre as at B, in Figure
5; the sides also may be hinged to the supporting table C, or to a ledge
secured thereto; as shewn at D, in Figures 5 and 7. By these last modifica-
tions, when. the machine' is required for use, the top and sides of the table are
opened out, and allowed to hang down from the sides of the fixed table C.
I may here observe, however, that although I have described certain modes of
opening the tops and sides of such tables, for the purpose of exposing the
machine concealed therein, yet I wish it to be distinctly understood that I do
not confine or restrict myself to any particular arrangement of the moveable
tops or covers of such tables and stitching machine, so long as the peculiar
and essential feature of this portion of my. Invention be adhered to, which is
the concealing or covering of stitching machines in ornamental or useful
articles of furniture, such articles of furniture constituting a stand for the
machine when in operation, and serving as an ordinary piece of ornamental
furniture when the machine is not required for use. I prefer to work the
machine by the aid of clock-work, actuated either by a weight or spring of
vulcanized caoutchouc or an ordinary barrel spring, as described by me in
the Specification of my Patent, 'bearing date the Sixth of December, One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-three. In the Drawings annexed hereto I
have represented the stitching machine, as being actuated by a weight F,
attached to a cord or gut, which is wound on to the barrel G by the aid of a

page_text: suitable key or winch handle, fitting on to the square end of the barrel shaft H.
The rotatory motion thus obtained is then transmitted by suitable gearing to
the driving shaft: I of the machine. This shaft may be fitted with suitable
disengaging mechanism, and the motion of the gearing controlled by an
escapement, if desirable, as described also in my Specification herein-before last
referred to. But what I consider, this last-mentioned portion of my Invention]
to consist of is, the combining with or placing in such stands or tables, as
herein-before described, self-acting mechanism in conjunction with stitching
machines, for the purpose of imparting motion to the same. And I would
remark, that I am aware that tables have been used heretofore for the purpose
of stitching machines being placed upon them, and that the same is not novel,
but such tables or' stands were merely constructions for the special purpose
of holding or supporting the machine, and were made without pretence to
ornament, or appear as articles of fancy cabinet ware or other ornamental
furniture; nor were the tables or stands so formed. or constructed as to conceal,.
disguise, or cover. stitching machines, or made to appear like any ordinary
article of furniture of a well-appointed apartment; and I do not claim the use
of tables; but what I do claim is, the general arrangements, combinations,
and mode. of construction and disposition as herein-before more fully described
and illustrated. And in conclusion, I would remark, that I do not confine
myself to any particular description of stitching machine, being so combined,
arranged, or disposed of, and do not therefore think it necessary to shew any
special complete arrangement of stitching machine, as any convenient stitching
machine may be enclosed and disposed in articles of furniture as herein-
before described, but merely such as will serve to fully illustrate this part of
my Invention...
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I. would observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself
to the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe
or refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of my said Invention..
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set my
_ hand_and_seal,-the-Eighteenth day of October, One-thousand-eight
hundred and fifty-four.
JULIAN BERNARD. (L.S.)