Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 27th May, 1887
Complete Left, 27th Feb., 1888
Complete Accepted, 25th May, 1888
I, GRIFFITH BREWER, of 33 Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex>
Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a com-
munication to me from abroad by Pierre Jansen, of 10 Rue du Merinos, Brussels,
Belgium, Machinist) to be as follows:-
This invention refers to apparatus for either embroidery, edge work, or button-hole
stitch, and which is applicable to any construction of sewing machines capable of
giving the requisite to and fro motion to the mechanism.
The apparatus consists of a crochet or thread-laying finger adjustably fitted or
mounted on a suitable sliding guide, carried on the bracket head of the machine. The
crochet or finger is given a to and fro motion, from a cam on the driving shaft of the
machine, through suitable cranks connecting rods, and rock lever.
The crochet, or finger, consists of a thread-laying grooved arm, adjustably fitted to
the sliding guide and furnished with a guiding eye, through which passes the
embroidery or feeding thread from a spool and through a tension arrangement on the
framework of the machine, the said thread passing to the work, in which a button-
hole, for example is being made; the crochet or finger is carried in a socket mounted
in the sliding guide and fixed by a screw so as to be adjustable both axially and
vertically.
The action of the machine is as follows:
When or as the needle of the machine descends to penetrate into the work, (to
commence the formation of a herrin-bone or button-hole stitch) the crochet or finger
furnished with its thread passes underneath the needle and forms a loop with the
thread, and the thread being held down by the needle thread is drawn against the
work and there held; after the needle has risen and the feed has taken place,
the crochet comes back as the needle again descends, such backward and forward
CD 017

page_text: movement of the crochet being communicated to its sliding frame by the mechanism
before mentioned. The needle having again formed its stitch in the work comes up
again, and again allows of the passage of the crochet beneath it, as before to form a
new loop, and this action is repeated at every stitch or every other stitch made by the
needle.
By this invention I obtain an edge, or button-hole, herrin-bone or festoon stitch,
the feeding or laying thread forming a pearl, binding or cord, on or over which passes
the ordinary sewing thread, such laying thread strengthening or thickening the
sewing forming the borders of button holes, edgings, and embroidery and the apparatus
has the advantage that it can be adapted to work with any sewing machine of the
type herein-before mentioned, the adjustment and management of the crochet being
very simple.

page_text: Improvements in and Connected with Sewing Machines.
I, GRIFFITH BREWER of 33 Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical
Draughtsman do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communication to me
from abroad by Pierre Jansen of 1 Rue de Merinos, Brussels, Belgium, Machinist)
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention refers to apparatus for either embroidery, edge work, or button hole
stitch, and which is applicable to any construction of sewing inachines capable of
giving the requisite to and fro motion to the mechanism.
The apparatus consists of a crochet or thread laying finger adjustably fitted or
mounted on a suitable sliding guide, carried on the bracket head of the machine.
The crochet or finger is given a to and fro motion from a cam on the driving
shaft of the machine, through suitable cranks, connecting rods and rock lever.
The crochet or finger consists of a thread laying grooved arm, adjustably fitted to
the sliding guide and furnished with a guiding eye, through which passes the
embroidery or feeding thread from a spool and through a tension arrangement on the
framework of the machine, the said thread passing to the work, in which a button hole,
for example is being made the crochet or finger is carried in a socket mounted
in the sliding guide and fixed by a screw so as to be adjustable both axially and
vertically.
The accompanying drawings illustrate in elevation at Figure 1, the combination of
arrangements for producing the sewing according to this invention, the crochet or
thread laying finger included.
Figure 2 is a side view of Fig. 1.
Figure 3 shows the principal part in elevation that is to say the crotchet or thread
laying finger.
Figure 4 is a side view.
Figure 5 is a plan of a part of the table shewing the different positions
occupied by the crochet or thread laying finger and the orifice into which the
needle goes.
Figure 6 shews a piece of material the top shewn at a, bottom at b the stitch of
which has been made with the machine without the application of the crochet or
thread laying finger of which without the festoon thread it is simply the stitch.
Figure 7 shews the same stitch with the festoon thread and the manner in which
the stitch is made.
The crochet or thread laying finger A is a piece bent into the form of a scythe, one
of its ends is cylindrical and goes down at its lower part conically the external side of
which has a deep groove to admit and conduct the festoon thread m.
The groove
commences at the commencement of the vertical part of the thread laying piece and
goes to nothing towards the extremity which is slightly flattened and bored with
eyelet hole,

page_text: This kind of work is produced in the same manner as in other machines
however there is given a clear and concise explanation in order that with the
demonstration of the festoon stitch the invention will be easily understood and
appreciated.
In the platform or work plate P there is an orifice in the left hand corner near
to the feed Q and another orifice formed by a small half round hollow peg or
spreader R.
The needle goes once through the material in the left corner and the following
time into the hole formed by this small peg or spreader between the time the feed
feeds the material each time the length of a stitch in the direction shewn by the
arrow.
The shuttle S has also made during this time a to and fro movement and the stitch
which has been formed is represented by the line in Fig. 6.
The top thread goes from the orifice towards the edge of the material in a straight
and inclined line whilst the under thread (that is the shuttle thread) which is in
tension consequently holds in an undulating line the strings of the top thread or
'needle thread.
FORMATION OF THE FESTOON STITCH.
Supposing (Fig. 7) that the needle is at its highest point and now descends to
enter the orifice at the point formed by the half round small spreader passing
consequently near the edge of the material. During this downward movement of the.
needle the crochet or thread laying finger A makes (with the festoon thread m.being

page_text: engaged in its groove and which is held by one of its ends by the last stitch) a
movement towards the needle Fig. 74, and slides immediately in front of the needle in
such manner that the top thread o conducted by the needle is placed on the extremity
in front of the crochet or thread laying finger Fig. 7 and A Fig. 5; then at the
same time the point of the needle goes behind the crochet needle in the lace formed
by the festoon thread and then enters into the needle plate whilst that the crochet
or thread laying finger goes back immediately into the position A¹ Figs. 5
and 7.
The lace is consequently retained by the needle until the latter issues by ascending
from the orifice to go towards the point T which is made in the material after the latter
has been advanced by the feed Q intended for this purpose and common to all sewing
machines.
Almost at the same time that the needle during its descent towards T and yet
before it penetrates the material near to T, the crotchet or thread laying finger
has gone back as far as it can A¹ and has stretched the still loose lace Fig. 7.
When the needle has passed through by T the top thread O attaches the lace firmly to
the material.
The action is then repeated in this sense that the needle returns again from T to the
edge of the material and as the crochet or thread laying finger is directed afresh towards
the needle Fig. 7. The festoon thread which may consist according to taste of thick
silk thread comes from a bobbin on the arm of the machine passes over a small pulley
and through two thread guides p which are fixed to the head of the arm and on the
crochet or thread laying finger support to be led towards the incision p¹ of the groove
and the crochet or thread laying finger eye. The top thread guide o does not differ
from the ordinary thread guide used in ordinary sewing machines.
The crochet thread which is intended to furnish the festoon stitch does not go round
the spreader, on the contrary this thread after having served to furnish the festoon
stitch goes behind the needle then into the crochet eye and into the external
groove in same and then to the spool. Besides when the needle has gone through.
the material whilst it is re-ascending the crochet hook advances towards the
needle and its extremity appears to partially embrace the spreader at its extreme
position as indicated in the plan Figure 5, but the thread does not pass onto or round
the convex part of the spreader. In fact when the needle re-ascends after having
gone through the edge of the material, the crochet hook retiring, the festoon thread
then descends the length of the needle between it and the spreader; when the needle
re-ascends the festoon thread having descended passes behind the needle thread although
the latter is at the top of the crochet hook.
The spreader is intended to prevent dust from getting into the hole for the passage
of the needle.
The shapes, sizes, and materials may vary without departing from the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
:-
In sewing machines the crochet or thread laying finger A as above described
constructed and acting substantially as and for the purposes described with reference to
the accompanying drawings together with any inere modification or modifications
thereof.