IMPROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES
Year: 1884

page_text: I, FREDERICK CALDWELL, of Loughborough, in the county of Leicester, Hosiery
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS
IN CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES, to be as follows:-
My improvements consist in producing an improved welt upon a two and one
ribbed fabric, and other number of ribs except a one and one rib, also a one and
one ribbed top on a two and one, or other number of ribs, on ribbed knitted fabrics.
To a circular knitting machine for producing ribbed knitted fabrics, carrying latch
needles, I employ one or more thread guides, the said latch needles being secured in
needle bits with nebs of different lengths and shapes operated by moveable split or
solid inclines, which needle bits and split inclines are actuated by levers cams and
studded chains, all fully described in the Specification of a former Patent, granted
to me for "Improvements in machinery and apparatus to be employed in the
manufacture of knitted fabrics," dated August 26th 1881, N° 3723; or I employ
needle bits, some of which have an additional neb, such nebs being operated by an
additional incline or inclines.
When making the improved welt upon a two and one ribbed fabric, such incline
or inclines operate the additional nebbed bits so as to retain or cast off their loops;
and when making a one and one top on a two and one fabric, a similar additional
incline or inclines, I employ to operate the additional nebbed bits so as to throw
their loops off, and remain out of work, until the required length of one and one
ribbed fabric has been made.
To prevent the latches of the needles of the additional nebbed bits flying up,
while out of work I employ a brush or a point, knife or plate of metal.

page_text: I FREDERICK CALDWELL of Loughborough in the County of Leicester Hosiery
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN
CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Figures 1 to 14 show the various modifications of instruments and apparatus
which I apply to a circular rib one or more feeder machine for producing
automatically an improved fast edge top or welt upon two and one ribbed fabrics
and other number of ribs except one and one rib, and also a one and one ribbed
top on two and one three and one or other number of ribs on ribbed knitted
fabrics all to be afterwards cut through into lengths against the welts, modification
six mode four is for a two or more feeder machine only. Each Figure is severally
referred to hereafter.
Figure 1 shows a vertical sectional view of a two feeder machine frame cylinder
with inclines and needle bits.
Figure 2 a side elevation showing the moveable inclines and the grooves the
needles-bits run in when making a two and one welt and a welted one and one rib
and top.
Figure 2 is an opposite side view showing a fixed incline at the bottom and a
moveable incline at the top.
Figure 3 a plan of the top inclines.
Figure 3 a plan of the bottom inclines.
Figure 4 shows the position of the top inclines without the cover ring when
making ordinary ribbed work with the larger number of ribs on the frame needles.
Figure 4 shows the position of top inclines when changing from a two and one
to a one and one three and one ribbed fabrics.
Figure 4B shows the position of the top inclines when making a two and one
welt.
In this machine I employ two different shaped needle bits in the frame cylinder,
one E with two narrow nebs, and one E' with one broad neb near the bottom,
each placed alternately as shown in the sectional view Figure 1 actuated by
moveable inclinés 14, 1³, 1°. The machine needles carried by their bits being
opperated as described in my former patent hereinafter referred to.
Mode 1. When making a two and one welt on two and one ribbed fabric, with
all the frame needles at work during the required plain courses of the welt, the
operation is, as follows:-The frame incline 14 operating the needle bits E¹ and
the frame inclines 1º operating the needle bits E are held down sufficiently low to
cause the needles to miss taking the thread, for one revolution on a two feeder
machine or for two revolutions on a one feeder machine, for the cutting off course
or courses, the loops following these courses when severed with the scissors will be
found to be fastened.

page_text: Mode 2. Or by another method of holding the same inclines half way down
producing a tuck stitch by loading the needles instead of them missing for one or
two revolutions for a cutting off fastening course, the loops in the next course will
be found to be fastened thereby. Each alternate frame needle of modes 1 and 2
Inissing its stitch on one side the frame-head and each other alternate needle
missing its stitch on the opposite side of the frame-head for one revolution, each other
needle securing its stitch on the reverse side of the head, the frame needles then
work in the ordinary way until the required number of plain courses are made.
Mode 3. Or by another mothod of raising the inclines D D and lowering the
inclines 1B as shown at Figure 4ª causing the needles carried by the bits E to cast
off their loops and remain without thread for one or two revolutions of the head;
the loops in the course or courses prior to the first course of the welt are for
cutting through, the succeeding one being the first of the welt will be found fast
and intact.
Mode 4. Or the needles carried by the bits E may be operated by inclines in the
position shown at Figure 4B, the needles carried by the bits E working in the
usual way by the incline 14 being raised to its proper position for the needles to
take their ordinary stitch, and not making alternate tuck cutting-off courses at the
point and in manner as before described.
Mode 5. Or by the needles carried by the bits E being held half way down by
the inclines 1B 1° producing a tuck stitch by loading the needles instead of missing,
also not working alternately, but whether the fore-named modes be working
alternately or not in these the prior courses to the welt, the next being the first of
the welt the machine needles are held in by the bits carrying them being moved
by the inclines operated by the levers shown at Figures 5. 6 and 8 and described
at lines 17 to 23 page of the specification of a former Patent granted to me for
Improvements in machinery & apparatus to be employed in the manufacture of
knitted Fabrics dated August 26 1881 number 3723.
The required number of plain courses of the welt of all the modes herein
described are made while the machine needles are held in and motionless in like
manner, until the rib needles again co-operate with the frame needles and the welt
is completed.
Mode 6. When making a one and one ribbed welted top on a two and one three
and one or other ribbed fabric by this machine I employ inclines D D to each
feeder as shown in side elevation at Figure 2 and in plan at Figure 3. The
operation of the inclines is as follows: previous to making the welt the inclines DD
are raised and the ordinary top inclines are lowered as shown at Figure 44, the
double nebbed needle bits E being raised sufficiently high to allow the latches of
the needles to pass above the loops, they are then brought down by the ordinary
top inclines 1B, 1º to cast off their loops, after one revolution of the head is made
the inclines D D are brought down, causing the noedles carried by the doublo
nebbed bits to remain out of work and thread until required to make two and one
ribbed fabric again. The cutting off course again being the one first before and
close to the welt. I then proceed to make the one and one welt in the usual way.
When the required length of one and one ribbed top is made the ordinary top
inclines 1B and 1° working the double nebbed needle bits are raised and the whole
of the needles resume their ordinary position for making two and one three and
one or other ribbed fabric again while making the usual welt and one and one top
I use or work in an extra thread or splicing at each feeder in the usual way for
thickening the top to its proper consistency if it be deemed necessary to do so, or
as an alternative I make use of the ordinary thread at one of the two feeders by
loading it in the jaw of the needles carried by bits E by raising the incline 14
Figure 1 half way so as not to allow the latches of the needles to pass through
their loops, but passing through their loops as usual at the next feeder during the.
making of the one and one welt and required length of one and one top.
Figures 5. 6. 7. 8 and 9 show sectional views of frame cylinders with the various
shaped needle bits and inclines I employ for producing a tuck and fastening cutting

page_text: off course or courses for the purpose or making a fast welt on all kinds of ribbed
fabric except a one and one rib by loading every other frame needle instead of its
missing its thread.
In the first modification Figure 5 shows a vertical section of a frame cylinder
carrying needle-bits each having two nebs the top neb of each alternate bit E
being deeper than each other alternate bit E¹ both bits being acted upon by solid
moveable inclines at the bottom.
The operation is as follows:-
When making a tuck course to be afterwards cut through the inclines on each
side are brought down to the position of E Figure 5 allowing the needle bits E¹ to
drop sufficiently low to prevent the latches of the needles they carry from passing
through their loops, the needle bits E being held in their ordinary position by the
.broad nebs Es running in the top groove.
Figure 5 is a side view and Figure 5B a plan of the inclines for operating the
needle bits..
In the second modification a fastening tuck course to be afterwards severed is
produced by needle bits D and D³ carrying latch needles in a frame cylinder shown
in vertical section at Figure 6, these bits have one neb each, those having cut nebs
as shown at D are actuated by one fast incline C and one solid moveable incline D'
at each side of the head.
The operation is as follows:-
The solid moveable incline D¹ is raised causing the needles carried by the
needle bits D to miss at both inclines and the needlos carried by the needle bits D'
to knock over their loops at incline C, both inclines are shown in side view in
Figure 6ª and in plan in Figure 6³.
In the third modification a tuck course afterwards cut through is produced by
needles carried by two kinds of needle bits E¹ E³ the needle bits E' have one neb
and the bits E have two nebs as shown in the vertical section of the frame
cylinder at Figure 7.
These bits are placed alternately and are actuated by one solid moveable
incline E on each side of the frame head. The operation is as follows:-
The inclines E are raised causing the needles carried by the bits E¹ to remain up
and retain their loops the needles carried by the double nebbed bits making
ordinary work by the nebs E* running in the top groove. The inclines are shown
in side view at Figure 74 and in plan at Figure 7B.
In a fourth modification I produce a tuck cutting off course by means of needles
carried by needle bits F1, F2 two solid moveable inclines F. F. at the bottom and
two projecting cam pieces H. H. above, shown in a vertical sectional view at
Figure 8, one incline F and cam piece H being shown in side view at Figure 8ª,
and in plan at Figure 8³.
The needle bits have one neb each near the bottom above which the front edge
is cut partly away for a portion of the length. Each alternate bit F¹ being cut
away a greater depth than each other alternate bit F².
At the commencement of the welt the operation is as follows:-The inclines F
are lowered causing the needles carried by the needle bits F¹ to remain down so as
not to pass their latches through their loops, the needles carried by the needle-
bits F being held up to their highest position by the inside projecting cam pieces H.
And in a fifth modification, when making a tuck fastening course for afterwards
severing, 1 employ two kinds of needle-bits K K and two solid moveable
inclines K K¹ shown in the vertical sectional view at Figure 9 the needle bits being
shown separately at Figure 10.
These bits have each a neb on the outer edge near the bottom, the neb on the
bits K being somewhat deeper than the nebs K³. These bits are placed
alternately.
The operation being as follows-When making ordinary work the inclines K K¹
are both held up the proper height to allow the latches of the needles carried by
the bits K³ to pass up through their loops, the needles carried by the bits K* will.

page_text: then be raised as much bigher as the difference between the two nebs. When
making a tuck course both inclines are lowered so as to allow the latches of the
needles carried by the bits K' to just pass up through their loops, the latches of
the needles carried by the bits K³ not being passed up through their loops.
In a sixth modification in the process of making a distinctly two and one and
not a one and one welt with all the frame needles at work during the whole of the
required number of plain courses of the welt on a two and one fabric made on a
one or more feeder frame, I employ two different shaped needle bits, some with
narrow nebs G and some with broad nebs G¹ shown at Figure 12 those with
narrow nebs are somewhat longer than the others. These bits are placed alter-
nately in the frame head. The needle bits G being operated by inclines D, D¹,
shown at Figure 11 and other inclines D, E, F, shown at Figure 11ª.
Mode 1. The operation is as follows-One revolution on a two feeder head
before the commencement of the first course of the welt, the incline F is raised to
pass the latches of the needles carried by the bits G above their loops, being then
lowered to cast off their loops by the inclines E remaining without thread and loops
during one revolution of the head, during which revolution the inclines D and D'
are raised to their highest position as shown by the dotted lines at Figure 11ª.
Mode 2. Or by another method the additional inclines F being held down and
the inclines D, D' being lowered so as to allow the needles carried by the bits G to
miss the thread for one revolution, the inclines D, D¹ are raised to their highest
position as shown at Figure 11ª. It will be seen that in this and the following
method (modes 2 & 3) as the loops never leave their hooks during the tucking
revolutions prior to the first of the welt, there will be no danger of them missing
their loop in the next round caused by the latches.
Mode 3. Or by a third method of holding the inclines D, D¹ half way down the
needles carried by the needle-bits G will secure their thread and retain it or tuck
it for one revolution of the head for cutting off by, the inclines D and D' being
raised as before described.
In the whole of the before described modifications of apparatus and methods of
operation when making a two and one or other welt except one and one on two and
one or other ribbed fabrics except one and one, the bits carrying the machine
needles are held in while the whole of the frame needles of the head are at work
making the required number of plain courses of the welt, after which the machine
needles resume work the welt being finished, two and one or other fabric except
one and one is resumed.
When making on this sixth modification mode A a one and one welted ribbed
top automatically changing to a two and one three and one or other ribbed fabrics
I employ a two or more feeder frame only, and not a one feeder, and needle bits G
and carrying needles shown at Figure 12 and inclines D D₁ E and F shown at
Figure 11 and 114.
Mode 4. The operation is as follows-Previous to commencing a welt and while
two and one fabric is being made the incline F is raised to pass the latches of the
needles carried by the bits G above their loops being then lowered to cast them off
by the inclines E the needles carried by the bits G₁ forming with the machine
needles the usual one and one ribbed fabric, a one and one welt and the required
length of one and one rib top are made, after which the incline F is lowered and
the needles carried by the bits G resume their ordinary position for making two
and one ribbed fabric for the length required, before changing for the next welt.
In a second method of making a one and one welted rib top automatically changing
to a two and one ribbed fabric on this sixth modification on a two or more feeder
frame I employ needles carried by needle bits, and inclines, as last described.
Mode 5. The operation being as follows-The inclines F are raised high enough to
cause the latches of the needles carried by the bits G to pass above their loops being
lowered by the inclines E for one revolution on a two feeder frame to throw off
their loops previous to making the welt, after which the inclines F, D and D'
remain down and allow the needles carried by the bits G to miss the thread, tho

page_text: needles carried by the bits G¹ forming with the machine needles the usual one and
one ribbed fabric; a one and one welt and the required length of one and one top
is made after which the inclines D D¹ are raised, the needles carried by the needle
bits G rising to take their thread in the usual way, two and one ribbed fabric being
then formed until another welt and one and one top are required when the operation
is repeated.
While making the usual welt and one and one top I add and work in an extra
thread or splicing thread as it is called, at each feeder of the head in the usual way
for thickening the welt and one and one rib top to its proper consistency in other
words to make up for the loss of substance caused by the change in the guage
through some of the needles not working when making one and one top as
described in modes 6 of first described machine and the two foregoing modes 4
and 5 of the 6th modification; or I adopt the preferable alternative next following.
In the latter two modes 4 and 5 on a two feeder frame for the purpose of
thickening the welts and one and one tops to their proper consistency if I do not
use the splicing thread before named I make use of the ordinary thread of one of
the two feeders by loading it in the jaw of the needles carried by the bits, G¹, with
broad nebs by lowering the incline, M Figure 13, half way, so as not to allow their
latches to pass through their loops but passing through their loops as usual at the
other feeder.
In the latter modes 4 and 5 of 6th modification when thickening the one and one
welt and top to their proper consistency by making use of the ordinary thread for
the purpose on a one feeder machine I accomplish the same result last described by
an oscillating motion of the incline M see Figure 13 at every revolution so as to
lower the needles carried by the broad nebbed bits, G¹, half way so as not to pass
their latches through their loops for one revolution until the full length of one and
one top and welt is made. In all cases when the needles have been arranged for
making a one and one welted top to a three and one ribbed fabric it is necessary to
remove them before making a two and one or other ribbed fabric with a one and
one welted top thereto.
It will be seen that by using the ordinary thread at one of the feeders before
mentioned while the one and one welt and top are being made for the purpose of
thickening to the proper consistency is only another mode of making the one and
one welt and top by operating the needles at one feeder differently, this different
operation causing the threads of both feeders to be both worked or knocked over
at one feeder.
Although in this modification of making a one and one welted ribbed top I have
shown and described narrow nebbed bits G and broad nebbed bits Gi I only
employ such bits to avoid changing them when they are required for the three
previous and the next succeeding modes 1. 2. 3 & 5. And I must also explain
here that in both the heretofore described methods Figure 44 mode 3 and modi-
fication 6 mode 1 of making a two and one welt on a two and one fabric which
being produced by totally emptying the hooks of every alternate needle of their
loops and thread for one or two revolutions prior to the first course of the welt
only differs from the one and one welted top to two and one fabric plans by the
greater number of courses which the needles carried by the needle bits E
Figure 4 as described at mode 6 in the first machine also at modes 4 and 5 of the
sixth modification are kept out of the thread by being held down by their inclines
during the making of the required length of the welted one and one top. Thus it
is obvious that a one and one welt and top of say a quarter of an inch long (more
or less) at the top of a two and one ribbed fabric made by either of the ways
modification 6 mode 4 or by the first machine mode 6-will be good and fast
welts or edges to the edges of two and one ribbed fabrics.
All the machinery before described for making fast edges or welts to the
edge of ribbed fabrics I operate with the hand lever shown at Figures 9, 9ª and
10 and described at lines 44 to 46 Page 5 of a former Patent granted to me

page_text: August 26 1881 No 3723 or by the cams, levers, and studded chain, also described
in the same former Patent or any of the well known mechanisms employed.
When I require to work with more than one needle in each of the consecutive
rows of ribs in ribbed fabrics in the machine or top head, say for instance two and
two, three and two, five and three or other number I employ machinery shown at
Figure 34 and described at lines 1 to 5 page 4 and Figures 5 to 8 described at
lines 22 to 43 page 5, also described in the former Patent referred to.
Any of the before described apparatus is equally applicable to machines in which
the fabric passes upwards through the pipe of the machine head or downwards
through the frame cylinder.
For the better understanding of this specification it may be well for me to say
that the formation of Tuck stitches in a course on every alternate needle just prior
to the first course of the welt, is necessary to enable me to fasten the stiches which
are to form the fast edges of the welt.
In the foregoing description and drawings I have made use of needles and other
apparatus some or all of which may have been in use before for a purpose similar
to mine in this Invention but on a one feeder frame only whereas I apply and use
them to or in a two or more feeder frame.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
First. The production on circular ribbed hosiery latch needle machines by the
means herein before described, of the stitches of every alternate needle in the
frame head while the needles of every adjacent or other alternate needle are at rest
but either retaining their old stitches or having cast them off for one or more courses
just prior to the first course of the welt, for the purpose of fastening those stitches
which at the edges of the welts of all ribbed fabrics except one and one rib would
not otherwise be fast.
Second. The improvements in machinery for producing by the means herein-
before described on circular ribbed one or more feeder hosiery machines with latch
needles an Improved welt or fast edge at the top of or at one end of ribbed
fabrics.
Third. The production by the means hereinbefore described of an Improved
welt or fast edge at the top or at one end of ribbed fabrics made by circular ribbed
one or more feeder hosiery machines with latch needles.
Fourth. The Improvements in machinery for producing by the means heroin-
before described made by circular ribbed two or more feeder hosiery machines with
latch needles-a one and one welted top of any desired length then automatically
changing to a two and one, or to other ribbed fabrics by the re-arrangement of the
needles for that purpose-the thread of each feeder on the head being worked
throughout the whole length of the one and one top, be it a quarter of an inch or
less or even very much more in length-the thread of each feeder on the head
being worked also as otherwise described.
Fifth. The improved production made on circular ribbed, one or more feeder
hosiery machines with latch needles by the means herein before described, of a one
and one welted top of any desired length afterwards automatically changing to a
two and one rib, or to other ribbed fabrics by the re-arrangement of the needles
for that purpose the thread of one only of the feeders in the case of fabrics
mauufactured on a two feeder machine being taken on the hooks of the then working
frame needles and hooked over or worked together with the thread of the other
feeder, but in the case of fabrics manufactured on a one feeder machine the thread
(the only one available) being taken on the hooks of the then working frame
needles for one revolution and then worked or knocked over after taking another
thread at the next revolution and so on. In both these cases the result being the
thickening of the fabric so as to remedy the loss of substance caused by the
automatic cessation from work of certain of the needles not required to work

page_text: during the manufacture of the one and one top and the production being a fast
edge welt or top and top to the tops of varying lengths or at one end of all kinds
of ribbed fabrics,
Sixth. For these purposes I claim the combination arrangement use and
application of needles needle bits inclines levers and feeders, in manner described in
my aforesaid specification.
Seventh. I claim to refer to my former Patent No 3723 of 1881 as to the
Invention therein described upon which my present Invention is an Improvement,
Dated this first day of Santambo- 100K