IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC GUSSET WERS
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Luke Turner, of Leicester, Elastic Web Manufacturer, for
the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC GUSSET
WERS
"
Sealed the 8th October 1878, and dated the 10th April 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Luke Turner at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 10th April 1878.
LUKE TURNER, of Leicester, Elastic Web Manufacturer.
MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC GUSSET WEBS."
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
Elastic gusset webs have heretofore been made of a combination of rubber strands
with silk, woollen, or cotton yarns, which form the face and back of the fabric.
These yarns however quickly wear away in use and leave the rubber strands
exposed.
The object of the present Invention is to produce a stronger and more wear-
resisting farbric than heretofore, and to this end I form the face of the fabric of
yarns produced from flax, jute, phormium tenax, or analogous fibres obtained from
the stalks of fibre-yielding plants. The yarns (from whatever source they are
derived) must be dyed of the proper colour, but it is found difficult to impart a good
appearance and uniform colour to flax yarns by dyeing them after they are spun.
In carying out my Invention. I dye the fibrous material before it is spun into
yarn, as when in an open or divided state the dye will act more effectually than
when the fibres are hardly spun or twisted into a firm close thread.
If desired, the yarn may be dyed a second time when spun, and also subjected to
friction so as to give them a more brilliant appearance.
In order to ensure uniformity in the colour the open yarns in the first dyeing
operation may be passed between elastic rollers immersed in the dye liquor or

page_text: attached to the dye vat, and then passed between a second set of rollers for the
purpose of squeezing out the superfluous dye liquor.
Gusset webs made of the kind of yarns above described will wear much longer
than silk, woollen, or cotton webs, and will have a good appearance.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Luke Turner in the Great Seal Patent Offico on the 10th October
1878.
LUKE TURNER, of Leicester, Elastic Web Manufacturer.
MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC GUSSET WEBS."
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
Elastic gusset webs have heretofore been made of a combination of rubber
strands with silk, woollen, or cotton yarns, which form the face and back of the
fabric. These yarns, however, quickly wear away in use and leave the rubber
strands exposed.
The object of the present Invention is to produce a stronger and more wear-
resisting fabric than heretofore, and to this end I form the face of the fabric of
yarus produced from flax, jute, phormium tenax, or analogous fibres obtained from
the stalks of fibre-yielding plants. These yarns (from whatever source they are
derived) must be dyed of the proper colour, but it is found difficult to impart a
good appearance and uniform color to flax yarns by dyeing them with the com-
inoner dyes after the yarns are spun.
In carrying out my Invention I sometimes dye the fibrous material before it is
spun into yarn, as when in an open or divided state the dye will act more
effectually than when the fibres are hardly spun or twisted into a firm close
thread.
If, however, the yarns be not spun too hard a very satisfactory result can be
obtained if a superior class of dyes be used, and a good ground colour be obtained
by means of indigo or other good dye.
If desired, the yarns may be dyed a second time when spun, and they should also
be subjected to friction, so as to polish and give them a more brilliant appearance.
This polishing operation may be effected while the dyed yarns are in the hank in
the manner described in the Specification of a Patent dated Seventeenth February,
One thousand eight hundred and forty-six, and granted to William Edward Newton,
for an Invention for improvements in the preparation or manufacture of thread or
yarn; or the yarns may be operated upon by means of brushes, as described in the
Specification of a Patent dated Seventeenth June, One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-one, and granted to Godfrey Ermen, for improvements in the method of
and apparatus for finishing yarns or threads.
In order to ensure uniformity in the colour the open yarns in the first dyeing
operation should be passed between elastic rollers immersed in the dye liquor or
attached to the dye vat. By this means the dye or colour will be forced into the

page_text: interior of the yarn, so as to colour all the fibres uniformly throughout. The yarns
thus well charged with colour are then passed between a second set of rollers for
the purpose of squeezing out the superfluous dye liquor, and when they are dry the
yarns, either in the lank or singly, may be subjected to either of the polishing
processes above referred to, or to any other suitable process for giving lustre to the
yarns. They may then be warped ready for weaving in the ordinary manner, it
being of course understood that the warps are so arranged that these dyed linen
warps are used to form the face of the fabric.
Gusset webs made of the kind of yarns above described will wear much longor
than silk, woollen, or cotton webs, such as those now made, and will have a good
appearance.
Having now described my Invention of "Improvements in the Manufacture of
Elastic Gusset Webs," and having explained the manner of carrying the same into
effect, I claim as the Invention secured to me by Letters Patent as aforesaid, the
manufacture of elastic gusset webs with a face made with yarns spun from fibres
obtained from flax, jute, phormium tenax, or other analogous fibre-yielding plants,
as and for the purpose herein set forth, the back of such fabrics being made of the
ordinary cotton or other yarns usually employed for the purpose.
In witness whereof, I, the said Luke Turner, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, the Ninth day of October, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-eight.
LUKE TURNER. (L.S.)