Year: 1897

page_text: SOCRATES KEATS, Mechanical Engineer, 54, Rue de l'Ermitage, Paris, France,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:
The main objects of this invention are.
:-
Firstly. To produce a machine, for sewing & stitching boots & shoes with a
lock stitch, in which the thread is subjected to the minimum amount of friction
and wear,
Secondly. To increase the speed of such machine whilst at the same time
reducing the speed of the shuttle when passing through the loop.
Thirdly. To increase the thread carrying capacity of the shuttle without increas-
ing the size of loop.
Fourthly. To produce a seam of greater solidity.
Fifthly. To reduce the number of working parts & generally simplify the
construction of this class of sewing machines.
To this end I have constructed a novel kind of shuttle or, thread & needle
carrying device, which performs all the various functions of the numerous
instruments used generally up to the present time.
This shuttle is in form, the greater part of a circle & is rotated in bearings which
carry it, a gap or cavity is cut into the exterior diameter of sufficient length &
depth, to enable a curved hook or needle to be fastened into what is generally
termed the "heel" of the shuttle, this piercing & thread carrying instrument
projects into the gap circumferentially far enough, to enable it to pierce any
desired thickness of material, going through it & out at the opposite side of the
work, to expose the barb, so that the needle thread may be laid into it, the further
distance from the point of the piercing instrument to the other end or pointed
.. nose "of the shuttle, being of sufficient length to admit of the entrance, between
the nose & point of piercing instrument of any desired thickness of material to
be sewn.
The depth of the cavity towards the axis of shuttle is governed by the distance
of the seam from the edge of material to be sewn.
The body of the shuttle is pierced with an opening for the introduction of a
spool or cop of thread & is provided with a cover which has the necessary tension
device affixed.
The shuttle is mounted in suitable bearings which are attached to the machine
in such a manner that the shuttle with its supports may be moved, too & from
the work at each stitch & have also a riciprocating variable movement across the
axis of the shuttle for the purpose of "feeding" the material the necessary length
of stitch..
A semi-rotary riciprocating, & rotary movement which is imparted to the shuttle,
may be taking place during the action of the previously described movements or
during the dwell of either or both of them.

page_text: The action of the machine during the process of making a stitch will be as
follows:-
The shuttle with its supports is moved forward until the hooked needle is
brought into position to pierce the material to be sewn, when the shuttle & hook
are caused to rotate forcing the hooked needle through the work, the shuttle
with its bearings is then moved across the length of a stitch carrying the material
with it, then a second instrument lays the thread into, the barb of the hook, which
is then withdrawn carrying the thread along with it. Immediately the hook is
clear of the material, the shuttle with its supports is withdrawn sufficiently to
enable the shuttle to turn free of the material being sewn, the continued rotary
movement of the shuttle causes its nose or pointed end to enter & open the
loop thus formed & admit of the shuttle being passed through it.
When the loop is released from the barb of the hook a take up" lever draws
away the loose loop containing the shuttle thread, out of the path of the shuttle, &
the shuttle with its supports is moved back the length of the stitch. The take
up lever however only draws down a portion of the loop leaving a certain
length to be drawn in by the next stitch.
The shuttle is again moved into position to commence another stitch, the hole
is pierced by the hooked needle, the thread laid into the barb of hook as previously
described & the hook withdrawn carrying the thread with it,--The movement
of the take up lever is so timed that it delivers thread exactly at the same speed
at which the hook travels, consequently only enough thread is given to it for one
side of the loop, this causes the thread to lie still in the barb of the hook &
consequently avoids the friction of the thread running through the barb of the
hook as is generally the case, or very complicated mechanism is substituted to
produce the same effect, but even then there is considerable wear on the thread.
The further movement of the shuttle, or as the thread is drawn over the centre
of shuttle, pulls in & completes the stitch previously left, & then pulls off from
the spool (which is released at the time) a further length of thread for the
next stitch.
When the hook has passed over & beyond the centre of shuttle (as it rotates)
the whole instrument with its supports is again moved back the length of a
stitch & the loop as it is released, by reason of the shuttle rotation, is drawn
partly down with the shuttle thread introduced as previously explained.
In all shuttle sewing machines the shuttle has been placed at a distance from
the work plate to admit of the needle or hook rising clear of the thickest material
to be sewn & this space has always been the cause of a greatly increased length
of loop.
In my new construction this space is unnecessary as the shuttle itself of which
the needle forms a part is brought in direct contact with the material to be
sewn & consequently a greatly reduced loop may be used, for the same size of
shuttle, & a greater quantity of thread carried.
A further advantage claim for this novel construction is that as it performs or
replaces the whole of the following instruments, The piercing awl, the hooked
needle, loop forming mechanism, feeding mechanism & stitch-tightening
mechanism, there is a great reduction in the number of working parts and the.
shuttle, instead of having as has always been the case, only about one fifth to one third
of a revolution of the machine to pass through the loop, practically has the whole
turn of the machine in which to perform its function; thus avoiding the great
friction put on the thread, by reason of having to pass through the loop so rapidly.
The seam is consequently more solid by reason of less friction put on the thread
for a given velocity of the machine.

page_text: I, SOCRATES KEATS, now residing at No. 148, Melbourne Road, Leicester, in
the County of Leicester, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in lock stitch sewing machines for
sewing or stitching boots or shoes and the like in which the thread is subjected
to the minimum amount of wear and friction, also to reduce the speed of the
instrument or device employed for carrying the thread through the loop. To
increase the thread carrying capacity of the instrument or device (which is
ordinarily called a shuttle) without proportionately increasing the size of the loop.
And to produce a seam of greater solidity than has hitherto been considered
possible, also reduce the number of working parts and generally simplify the
construction of such machines.
In order that my invention shall be well and clearly understood I have appended
3 sheets of drawings showing the parts more particularly indentified with this
invention, and hereinafter referred to in Figure 1, Sheet 1 which is a side elevation
of the head of the machine in accordance with this invention.
Figures 2 and 3, Sheet 1 are side and under views of the sewing instrument or
shuttle forming the subject of this invention.
Figure 4, Sheet 2 is a front elevation of the machine head, showing the various
cams and levers employed in giving motion to the sewing instrument.
Figures 5 to 8, Sheet 3 inclusive are side and front views of the sewing instru-
ment in four different positions assumed during the operation of making a stitch
as follows: Referring to Figure 5 the shuttle D is shown in its inactive or in-
operative position just previous to piercing the material G³ that shown being part
sections of a boot.
Figure 6 shows the shuttle D after moving forward and having pierced the
material G the looper G laying the thread in the hook.
Figure 7 shows the sewing instrument or shuttle I turning in the direction
of the arrow with the thread stretched to its fullest capacity, the looper G being in
its normal position preparatory to its laying the thread in the hook. Figure 8
shows the sewing instrument or shuttle D having nearly completed its rotary
movement after passing through the loop of the thread which is shown in this
figure as falling away from the barb of the hook.
It will be observed that the heel d' of the sewing instrument or shuttle D is
situated centrally and is pointed or chamfered off, so that it can divide the loop of
thread immediately after the thread in the hook leaves the material G, and
Figure 9 Sheet 3 are side and front cut off views on an enlarged scale of the
hook d.
The sewing instrument or device consists of a novel kind of shuttle
and thread carrier which will serve the several purposes of hook carrier,
feeder, loop former and stitch-tightening arrangements, dispensing with
what is known as the piercing awl.-Into one end of the circular rotating
shuttle 1 (or as I prefer to call it a combination sewing instrument or device)
I insert the hook d protruding a sufficient length so as to be able to pierce through
the material to be sewn; space is also provided for the material to enter between
the point of the hook and the heel into the gap in the periphery of the shuttle
provided for the passage of the thread. The movements of this sewing instrument

page_text: or device are effected by the mechanical means hereinafter referred to or their
equivalents.
A short reciprocating movement in its bearings to bring the piercing hook d into
position for piercing the material G*. A rotating action of the shuttle to force
the hook through the leather until the barb is well exposed on the other side
where it remains long enough to allow the looper G to lay the thread into the
hook," as seen in Figures 5 and 6, Sheet 3 of the drawings, the whole of the
sewing instrument or device then moves carrying the boot, shoe or other material
with it the length of one stitch, the hook is then withdrawn and carries the thread
with it and immediately it is clear of the material the whole instrument or device
is raised or withdrawn to enable it to rotate without coming in contact with the
work. The hook d forming part of the sewing instrument or device, the thread is
not disturbed or taken from it until the stitch has been formed, but, during the
rotation and as the thread is carried round, the heel of the instrument or device
which as before stated is pointed, centrally with the hook enters the loop, dividing
it and spreading it aside sufficiently to enable the sewing instrument or device to
pass through the loop. Immediately after the loop is drawn to its utmost limit
seen in Figure 7," Sheet 3, which takes place when the thread is directly across
the centre, the lever K provided with two rollers k, (over which the thread passes,)
is moved by the cam lever L and draws away the slack thread from the shuttle as
it rotates, the position of the hook d at this time facilitating this, the loop however
is not drawn tightly down to the material, but only sufficiently to be clear of the
rotating sewing instrument D as seen in Figure 8, Sheet 3," which continues to
rotate until the hook is again in the position from which it started "see Figure 5,
Sheet 3," it is then again moved into the necessary position to pierce the material
as seen in Figure 6, Sheet 3," for the next stitch when the thread is laid on
the hook and the same movement takes place, the whole of the loop is not drawn
down to the material as a portion of it is left just clear of the shuttle, the centre,
or nearly so of the loop is presented to the hook by the looper G, consequently as
the hook retreats the slack thread is drawn in one side and the take up lever
delivers the thread for the other side of the loop, so that the loop is practically
quiescent in the barb of the hook d. When the loop is drawn in, the further
movement of the shuttle D pulls in the stitch and draws a supply of thread from
the tension pulley or cop, the brake m on the tension pulley M "Figure 1 Sheet 1"
being raised at this moment by the take up lever K coming in contact with the free
end of the brake lever M, and releases the pressure on the tension pulley M.
65
The further movement of the machine causes the take up lever K to be moved,
when it immediately leaves the brake lever M¹, to again, clamp the tension
pulley M and prevent any more thread being drawn from it until the next stitch
is made. The feed or transporting of the material is effected by the revolving
cam N, the roller or bowl O on the vertical lever 01, carrying in its lower arm the
groove O2, in which is the slide block 03 screw bolt 06, at right angles and carry-
ing the sleeve 0%, and die 05 "seen in Figures 1 and 44 free to rotate.-The
screw nut and washer on the screwed end of the pin binding the sleeve and sliding
block leaving the die free in its movement. The said die passes through a suitably
situated vertical slot in the slide plate carrying the shuttle box D1, of the sewing
instrument. The varying length of stitch depends upon the vertical adjustability
of the die inasmuch that the nearer it is moved to the centre of the vertical
lever 1, the stitch becomes correspondingly shorter, and "rice versa." The
hook entering the material through the stitching plate at the same point.
For imparting movement to the rotary shuttle or sewing instrument D the
cam P gives movement to the levers A and B, thence through the links a and b
connected to excentrically placed pins C, and C, on the pinion C, in gear with this
pinion are two smaller ones c³, and d³, seen in Figure 1, Sheet 1." The two
smaller pinions c, and d, are rigidly in gear with the large pinion C but a portion
of the periphery being cut away a gap or opening is formed and these two smaller
*

page_text: pinions are so situated that one or other of them is always in gear with the teeth
of the shuttle, these levers and pinions serve to give an intermittent rotary and
reciprocating rotary movement to the sewing instrument, the latter movement to
pierce and withdraw the hook d and the former to give a complete rotary move-
ment to pass the sewing instrument through the loop as seen in Figures 5, 6, 7
and 8, Sheet 3."
"
A short reciprocating movement is given to the looper G by the cam P*, and
levers H which places the thread positively into the barb of the hook d.
The necessary to and fro movement of the hook and sewing instrument or
device is through the cam P and lever E, the latter connected by the bolt F
"Figure 1" to the machine head so that the movement of this lever serves to swing
the whole of the movable head, carrying the sewing instrument.
"
The whole of the motion cams excepting the feed cam N are cut on the three
central discs' N¹, P and P* and carried on the shaft p which is driven in the
usual way.
66
The sewing instrument or device D has a circular cavity seen in dotted
lines Figures 2, 3, 5, 6, 7 and S" cut into it which carries a cop thread, the end
of the cop being drawn from the centre and passes through one or more of the
holes, directly in the centre of the motion of the sewing instrument, tension is
given to the thread by it passing through these holes in the shuttle to increase or
decrease the amount of pressure upon the thread, the shuttle thread being in this
case drawn from the centre, no thread is given out which would be the case if
the thread hole was placed excentrically as in existing machines. To resist the
upward thrust of the needle the locking of the presser bar is caused by the
vertical front lever Q having a roller at its upper end in a groove in the cam N¹,
its lower right angled end Q being bored, and carries an adjustable pin engaging
a lug upon the slotted bar Q2 through which the presser bar is passed. The
hook d is made differently to those now in use inasmuch as it serves the purpose
of awl as well, it is provided with a centrally flattened point dat right angles to
the thread barb, ** the flattened portion commencing with the barb and
gradually broadening out to the point, and is rounded off towards the back,
in Figure 9, Sheet 3, the thread when placed in by the looper G is clear of this
point, and the rotation of the sewing instrument or device which carries the
hook causes the thread to slip over the rounded portion without abrading it.
The shuttle box D' may carry roller bearings if desired, and the sewing instrument
may be applied to existing machines without departing from the spirit of this
invention.
seen
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. An instrument or device for sewing and stitching boots shoes or other
material circular in form with an opening or gap in its periphery of sufficient
length to enable a hooked needle to be inserted in one extremity or nose, and
projecting into said opening, the other extremity or heel being pointed for divid-
ing and opening the loop of thread, and hollowed out to carry a cop or spool of
thread and the necessary movements imparted to it for piercing the material,
feeding the length of stitch, from the loop, introducing the locking thread and
80 completing the stitch, in the manner substantially as described.
2. In a lock stitch sewing machine the employment of a compound thread
carrying, needle carrying, feeding, loop forming and stitch tightening circular
sewing instrument or device, to which is imparted an intermittent, or rotary and
partial reciprocating motion, by the means and for the purposes substantially as
described.
3. A compound, thread carrying, needle carrying, feeding loop forming and
stitch tightening circular sewing instrument or device capable of a rotary and

page_text: partial rotating and reciprocating motion in its bearings around its own axis, the
whole device with its bearings having a forward and return movement in bringing
it in the position for piercing the material preparatory to making the stitch.
4. A compound thread carrying, needle and hook carrying, loop forming, and
stitch tightening circular sewing instrument or device having a horizontal variable
reciprocating motion, and feed regulator consisting of a centrally pivoted vertical
lever having in the lower arm thereof a semi-circular shaped groove and corres
pondingly shaped sliding block fitting therein with right angled pin carrying
sleeve and revolving die passing through corresponding slot in the slide plate of
the shuttle box, capable of vertical adjustability for the purpose hereinbefore
described.
5. The herein described combination of parts for operating the circular sewing
instrument or device for sewing and stitching or welting with a lock stitch;
leather and other materials, substantially as set forth.
Dated this un day of April 1090.
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Registered Patent Agent,
34, Belvoir Street, Leicester, Applicant's Agent.
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Registered Patent Agent,
34, Belvoir Street, Leicester, Applicant's Agent.