CERTAIN NEW AND USEFUL IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF HATS
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Drew Stetson, of New York City, in the
United States of America, temporarily residing at Liverpool, in the
County of Lancaster, Solicitor of Patents, for the Invention of "CERTAIN
NEW AND USEFUL IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF HATS."-A con-
munication from abroad by Elias Rosenswig, residing at Philadelphia,
in the State of Pennsylvania, one of the United States of America.
Sealed the 27th February 1866, and dated the 31st July 1865.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Thomas Drew Stetson at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition and Decla
ration, on the 31st July 1865, pursuant to the 9th Section of the Patent
Law Amendment Act, 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, BE IT
KNOWN that I, THOMAS DREW STETSON, of New York City, in the United
States of America, temporarily residing at Liverpool, in the County of Lan-
caster, Solicitor of Patents, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for
"CERTAIN NEW AND USEFUL IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF HATS" (a
communication to me from abroad by Elias Rosenswig, a person residing at
Philadelphia, in the State of Pennsylvania, one of the United States of

page_text: America), and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference
being had to the Drawings hereto annexed, and to the letters and figures
thereon, that is to say :-
This Invention of "Improvements in the Construction of Hats," relates,- 5
Firstly, to a novel means of joining two or more layers of separately woven
felted or otherwise prepared materials by the employment of gutta percha
or analogous clastic gum, which is introduced between in a thin sheet to
cement the layers together.
Secondly, to novel means of giving the proper "curve" to the brim by 1
forcing in stiffening material within the binding around the edge of a brim so
as to cause it to contain a greater length of wire or other stiffener than the
ordinary periphery of the brim.
Thirdly, to covering the edge of the brim with two or more separate bind-
ings; the innermost to bear the strain due to the stiffener, and the outer to 1
receive the wear on the surfaces.
And, fourthly, to the employment of a peculiar stiffener in the edges of the
brims of hats, the same being steel wire flattened and placed edge upward
so as to bend easily in the horizontal plane but maintain a great stiffness
vertically.
The proper stiffening of the brims of hats has been a subject of great
difficulty. The cylindrical form of the sides make it easier to keep that part
in shape. The brim is always the first to fail unless it is very effectually
stiffened, or is supported by some provision for the purpose. This Invention
is intended to remove much of these difficulties, and to provide a brim which
will be light and graceful and also very durable.
To enable others skilled in the art to make and use this Invention I will
proceed to describe its construction and operation by the aid of the accom-
panying Drawings and of the letters of reference marked thereon.
Fig. 1 is a central vertical section through the hat from front to rear;
Fig. 2 is a corresponding section at right angles to that in Fig. 1; Fig. 3
is a section of the brim on a larger scale; Fig. 4 is an edge view of the
hoop showing the mode of joining the ends; Fig. 5 is a magnified section
⚫of the extreme edge of the brim. Similar letters of reference indicate like
parts in all the Figures.
A is the lower sheet or layer of fine cloth, felt, or other ordinary material;
B is the upper layer made of the same or a different material; C is an inter-
mediate thickness, which may be composed of a cheaper material, such as a
very coarse felt; D, D, are thin layers of gutta percha which cement the

page_text: several layers together, and forms a cheap, elastic, and waterproof connection
over their whole surfaces. I procure the gutta percha in the form of tissue,
and place it between the several layers A, B, C, in sheets spread out and cut.
to about the pattern required, but a little larger. On.applying a heated iron
and operating for a little period on either the upper or under surfaces of my
brim, the gum- becomes melted and adheres strongly to the adjacent fibres of the
several layers of the cloth or felt. It is mot absolutely essential to employ the.
intermediate layer C. I can make a very good hat by cementing the exterior
layers A and B directly together by the interposition of a single sheet of tissue
D, and melting it as above described. I can employ the same mode of con-
struction for the sides and top of the hat if desired. E is a flat wire of
tempered steel which encircles the brim, and. is secured thereto by the bindings..
It is joined at the end by a clasp e, which holds the ends abutted together as
represented. This wire is the same as is commonly employed in the manufacture
of ladies' skirts. It may be covered with braid or other ordinary material if
desired, but I prefer to employ it bare. G is a binding of tape or other narrow
and strong material which encloses the wire and the edge of the brim, and is
sewn to the-latter by a sewing machine or otherwise in the obvious manner. H
is a wider binding which is by preference a silk ribbon. It is also stitched to the
brim and encloses the binding G and its contents, and being wider, conceals the-
whole. By chamferring or thinning the material of the clasp e at its ends as.
indicated the. tendency to wear through the binding at. the clasp is very.
materially diminished. In order still farther to reduce. this destructive
tendency it may be well' generally to locate the clasp at the side of the brim
where the curve holds it up and exposes it to less wear than the front or rear..
The two bindings form a very effectual guard against the serious strain. which
would otherwise be imposed on the delicate exterior fabric H, and thus enables
me to force in the wire E with considerable strain. The wire E may be
applied either by encircling it with a slight thread, termed basting, and thus
holding it approximately in place before the inner binding G is applied, or tho
inner binding G may be sewn first in place, leaving an open space where the
ends are joined through which the wire E may be thrust and compelled to.
make its way around until both ends appear at the opening.
getting the wire in nearly its right position I apply the clasp
and strain the wire outwardly by endeavering to force in more than the space
will properly contain. Having by thus applying a considerable force by the
hands or otherwise ascertained how much the space can be made to hold, I
cut off the remainder (presuming the wire to be a little too long) and force
out the wire powerfully to allow the free end to be inserted in its proper place
After thus
to one end

page_text: H
may
in the clasp e. I then pinch or compress the clasp with forceps or a suitable
die, and stitch the binding down snugly quite round. The outer binding H
is then applied without difficulty. It may be remarked that the outer binding
be also applied before the wire is introduced by joining its ends at or
near the same point and leaving a space open as above described for the inner
binding G. The effect of straining the wire E so as to force in more than
the space will conveniently contain is manifested in the greater curve obtained
in the brim. Flat wire formed in the simple hoop is much stiffer vertically
than laterally. This makes it extremely useful for this purpose, and it causes
the brim to maintain its proper position with great pertinacity without in-
ducing any undue strain radially. The curvature of the brim thus produced
is proportional to the strain to which the wire is subjected as above described.
If no strain is applied the wire describes an oval which is nearly or quite
plane. If it is subjected to a great compression by straining it very much in
measuring and applying it as above described, the curvature, by which I mean
the elevation at the sides of the head, and the depression at the front and back
may be made very great. Workmen soon learn what strain to impart for any
desired quantity of curvature. The wire may be coated with rubber or any
other suitable material to preserve it and make the binding more durable.
My Invention is applicable to any ordinary form of hat, and any of the
ordinary materials may be employed for the fabrics A, B. Any of the
ordinary modes of constructing in other respects not described may be adopted.
Also a portion of my Invention may be used without necessarily using the
other portions, but I prefer the form and arrangement of all the parts repre-
sented in the Figures. The middle layer C or either of the others may be
stiffened with shellac or the like if desired. The gum layers D make the
structure waterproof, and preserve the material from some of the most serious
destructive agencies. The wire E may be twisted in the manner well known
to workers of such materials so as to. facilitate or increase the curvature of
the brim, but I have not usually found it necessary to do so.
Having now fully described the nature and particulars of this Invention,
what I claim as new therein and desire to secure by Letters Patent is as
follows:
Firstly, I claim cementing two or more layers in a hat brim by the employ-
ment of elastic gum D, applied & operating substantially in the manner and
for the purpose herein set forth.
Secondly, I claim forming or aiding to form the curve by straining the
wire, or forcing in more than the space requires, substantially as berein
specified.

page_text: Thirdly, I claim the duplex bindings G and H arranged relatively to an
enclosed stiffener E, substantially as and for the purpose herein set forth.
And, fourthly, I claim the steel wire E presenting its flattened faces
radially so as to bind easily to the form of the brim, and maintain the brim in
its proper position, substantially as herein specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Drew Stetson, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of July, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
In the presence of
Witness,
JNO. W. BARNES,
8, Quality Court,
Chancery Lane,
London.
THOMAS D. STETSON. (L.S.)