IMPROVEMENTS IN OR CONNECTED WITH MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND TRIMMING OR CUTTING FABRICS OR OTHER MATERIALS THE SAID IMPROVEMENTS BEING IN PART APPLICABLE TO OTHER MACHINERY
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the
County of Middlesex Gentleman for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
OR CONNECTED WITH MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND TRIMMING OR CUTTING
FABRICS OR OTHER MATERIALS THE SAID IMPROVEMENTS BEING IN PART
APPLICABLE TO OTHER MACHINERY" communicated to him from Charles
Henry Willcox a person resident in New York City in the County and State
of New York in the United States of America
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 17th April 1883.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman "IMPROVEMENTS IN OR CONNECTED WITH MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND
TRIMMING OR CUTTING FABRICS OR OTHER MATERIALS THE SAID IMPROVEMENTS
BEING IN PART APPLICABLE TO OTHER MACHINERY "
a communication to me from
Charles Henry Willcox a person resident in New York City in the County and
State of New York and the United States of America
This Invention has reference more particularly to machines for simultaneously
Bewing and trimming knit goods and other fabric but is in part applicable to
sewing machines generally.
It consists firstly in the combination with a sewing machine having a four
motion under feed and trimming attachment therefor, of means for relieving at
each descent of the needle the pressure of the presser foot so that the machine inay
sew and trim around small circles, such for example, as the ends of glove fingers.
Such means although heretofore known have never been used in or combined with
sewing and trimming machines.
The second part of the Invention comprises certain improved means for auto-
matically relieving the pressure of the presser foot. A vibratory lever or other
suitable reciprocating piece acts upon the presser foot through a spring which serves
as the medium of communication and through which a continuous and unbroken
connection is maintained. The use of contact devices or stops is avoided (the
vibratory lever or reciprocating piece being disconnected from the presser foot

page_text: except through the continuous elastic connection) so that the hard and noisy
action due to the rapid striking of surfaces is avoided.
The spring is compressed on the ascent of the needle bar so as to force down the
presser foot at the time of the feed, and is allowed to expand on the ensuing
descent of the needle so as to allow the fabric to be turned while the needle is in
the work. This portion of the Invention comprises also certain other constructions
and combinations of elements which will be hereafter described.
The third part of the Invention comprises improvements in the trimming
attachment, to wit, in the mechanism for automatically clamping the work for a
short time at each stitch so as to hold it stationary while the trimmer is cutting,
and then to relieve it while the feed takes place, and also in the means for
adjusting the position of the upper shear blade of the trimmer and of the
clamping finger relatively to the stitch forming devices, or, in other words, for
regulating their distance from the line of seam.
The improvement in the clamping mechanism consists in operating the clamping
device or finger through an elastic lever arm or flat spring connected at one end to
a rock shaft which carries the clamping device or finger and at the other to an
eccentric strap or other reciprocating piece. Preferably the spring is connected
with the same strap which operates the upper shear blade of the trimmer, but not
necessarily so, since it can be operated by a separate eccentric and strap, or from
some other part of the sewing machine or trimming attachment.
The improvement in the means for adjusting the 'position of the clamping
device or finger and of the upper or vibratory shear blade relatively to the
stitching mechanism consists in adapting the rock shaft and clamping device or
finger carried thereby, to be adjusted in the line of its (the said shaft's) length,
and in connecting the said rock shaft and that which carries the vibratory cutter
or shear blade, so that they are or may be moved together by one adjusting
device. This part of the Invention may be considered an improvement upon an
addition to or modification of the attachment described in the specification to
Letters Patent granted to J. Henry Johnson dated August 29th 1882 N° 4113.
The fourth part of the Invention consists in combining with a trimmer or
trimming attachment; a presser foot having a hinge between the foot proper and
the presser bar and so constructed as to allow the trimmer to operate alongside of
the rear portion of the presser foot, also in combining the hinged foot with a
clamping finger so disposed that a cutter may work between them, and also in the
special construction of the hinge joint so that the said joint and the spring
connected therewith are protected from foreign matters.
The fifth part of the Invention consists in a special device for relieving at the
will of the operator the clamp of the disc tension on the thread, to wit, in a spring
plate having a sinall teat or projection adapted when forced between the tension
discs to separate and hold them apart.
The sixth part of the Invention (which is partly applicable to machines for
purposes other than sewing) consists in means for preventing threads from the
machine or loose threads lying upon the work table from being caught between
rotating and non-rotating parts and also to prevent the spreading of oil. These
means comprise a flange on the rotating part fitting within a recess on the
adjacent non-rotating part so that the joint between the two is closed and so that
also the oil thrown by centrifugal force from the running flange will be confined
within the enclosing recess.
In the joint between the connecting rod, and the eccentric and driven pulley on
the main shaft, the said running flange is eccentric, and the recess in the adjacent
face of the connecting rod (which in this case is the non-rotating part) is eccentric
also. This part of the invention further comprises certain particular constructions
and combinations of parts as hereinafter described.
The seventh part of the Invention relates to an improved eye pointed needle.
These needles comprise each a shank by which the needle is secured in the needle
bar or needle arm, and a blade of smaller diameter 'pointed at the lower end which

page_text: pierces the work.. Ordinarily the blade is of substantially the same diameter
between the top of the taper forming the point and the bottom of the taper where
it merges into the shank. In the improved needle the upper part is made of
greater diameter than the lower. In sewing hard material such as leather, the
needle while it is in the work binds the thread more or less against the side of the
hole which it has made in the fabric. With the ordinary needle this binding
continues until the eye of the needle in the descent of the latter reaches the top of
the work. With the improved needle the thread is released so soon as the
enlarged upper part passes out of the work.
This operation is specially important in machines such as chain stitch machines,
which draw up the preceding stitch at least in part while the needle is in the
work.
The improvement also enables the needle to have a shorter point than the
ordinary needle, for the reason that the blade at the eye is of less diameter than
the ordinary needle used for the same work. The taper at the point it has been
found impracticable to extend above the eye.
Ordinarily the spring which depresses the presser bar ani presser foot, bears at
its upper end against an adjusting screw or nut or a fixed portion of the machine
frame. According to the present invention it bears against a lever arm through
the intermediary of a pin and disc fixed thereon. The pin noves at its upper end
in guides in the machine frame and at its lower end in a plunger which is free to
slide in the frame of the machine. The upper end of the pin fits into a recess in
the end of the said lever arm, which is carried by a short shaft journalled in the
machine frame and is operated from the needle lever through another lever or arm
fastened at one end to the opposite end of the said short shaft and at the other
end by a link to the needle lever. At each vibration of the needle lever therefore,
the before mentioned lever is vibrated also and produces a reciprocation of the pin
and disc. When the needle bar rises the pin and disc are forced down by the lover
arm, compressing the spring, which thereupon communicates its pressure through
the plunger to the presser bar and presser foot, so that the latter clamps the work
with suitable pressure.
When the needle bar descends the lever arm and the pin and disc rise and allow
the spring to expand and relievo the pressure of the presser foot upon the work so
that the latter can easily be turned. The parts are so disposed that when the
spring is expanded to its fullest extent it exerts little or no pressure. It is
however, often desirable that the work should be relieved of the pressure due to
the weight of the presser foot and presser bar, as well as of that due to any
pressure of the spring. To effect this relief an antagonistic spring is employed to
exert its force to lift the presser bar. This spring is interposed between a fixed
pin in the frame of the machine and the bottom of the plunger. The power of
this spring is less than that of the presser spring so that it does not prevent the
presser foot being held down by suitable pressure, but it suffices to lift the presser
bar and presser foot when the presser spring is expanded. It is obviously
desirable that the pressure with which the presser foot is held down should adinit
of variation according to the nature of the work. The desired adjustment may be
effected in various ways. For example the connection between the lever arm and
the short shaft herein before mentioned is made by a screw clamp. By loosening
said clamp and turning the shaft with the lever arm to the right or left the amount
of compression of the presser spring and consequently the pressure of the presser
foot upon the work may be regulated at will.
The trimming.attachment consists of a clamping device or finger for holding the
work or fabric down upon a stationary cutter bar or blade. It is carried by one
end of a rock shaft journalled in the trimmer frame. The opposite end of the
rock shaft is connected by an elastic or spring lever arm and a link with the
eccentric strap of the cutter operating arm. The pin which connects the elastic
lever to the eccentric strap being reciprocated by the eccentric the clamping device
or finger is at each stitch made to press upon and clamp the work alongside the

page_text: vibratory cutter. So soon as the finger or clamping device bears upon the work
the elastic arm or spring bends and exerts its pressure thereon. The pin continuing
its descent, the pressure is gradually increased until the eccentric link or strap has
passed the lower dead point when the pin rising gradually withdraws the pressure,
and after a while lifts the clamping device or finger clear of the work. The move-
inent of the pin being the same the thicker the work between the clamping devico
and the cutter bar or blade the more the arm or spring is bent, and consequently
the heavier the pressure upon the work. The pressure can be adjusted at will by
altering the connection between the elastic lever and the rock shaft. The rock
shafts carrying the vibratory cutter, and the stationary cutter are both adjustable
lengthwise in their bearings so as to bring the vibratory cutter or blade and the
clamping device or finger nearer to or farther from the needle, and are adjusted by
means of a set screw which is arranged parallel to the two rock shafts and is
tapped into the trimmer frame and its end is split to cause it to retain the position
at which it is set. Other means such as a set screw could be used to retain it in
position. A radial flange is provided on the said screw by means of which the
rock shaft of the stationary cutter and the clamping device or finger is caused to
follow the longitudinal motions of the set screw. The flange also forms a back stop
to the rock shaft of the vibratory cutter so that it, with the vibratory cutter also
follows the longitudinal movements of the set screw. Thus the vibratory cutter
or blade and the clamping device or finger are, or may be, simultaneously adjusted
nearer to or farther from the line of stitching and the clamping device or finger
will always be without care on the part of the operator, in the closest proximity to
the vibratory cutter or blade in all positions of the latter. A screw tapped into the
trimmer frame and having its end inserted into a groove in the set screw limits the
adjustment thereof in both directions.
In order that the cutters may not interfere with the turning of the work in
sewing around small circles the eccentric which operates the vibratory cutter, and
the clamping device or finger are so set that the vibratory cutter rises slightly
before the presser foot resumes its hold on the fabric, while the needle is still in
the work, and the body of the latter is entirely free. The vibratory cutter and
the clamping device or finger descend with the needle and rise with it. This is the
most advantageous arrangement, but work can be performed with the parts
differently timed.
The presser foot is similar in construction to that described and illustrated in the
specification bereinbefore referred to but it differs therefrom in having the foot
proper (or the sole, as it may be called) hinged, so that by working on the hinge it
will allow seams and thick places to pass without losing its pressure upon other
parts of the work. The hinge has its pivot between the foot proper or sole and
the portion which is fastened to the lower end of the presser bar.
The cutting portion of the trimmer is placed at the side of the hinge or rear part
of the presser foot so that when the latter is tilted by the passage of a seam the
heel or rear part will maintain its pressure upon the work alongside of the said
cutting portion and will hold it firmly under the action of the trimmer. With the
ordinary rigid foot the passage of a seam would lift the foot bodily and for a time
relieve the pressure alongside of the cutter and thus for such time lessen the
efficiency of the trimmier."
In order that the cutters may work in close proximity to the line of stitching
and to the needle the presser foot behind the needle is made of half width and the
plates forming the hinge are made thin so as to be contained in the space allowed.
At the same time strength is given to the hinge by making the said plates deep.
A spring is combined with the hinge. It tends to keep the foot at the proper level
while allowing it to tilt as occasion may require. To protect the spring it is placed
in an opening in one of the plates its free end acting upon a pin fixed in the other
plates.
To prevent foreign matter such as lint and the like working between the hinge
plates, their edges are curved. Space for the vibratory cutter is left between the

page_text: clamping device or finger and the rear part of the presser foot. The hinge foot
may be used with a clamping finger attached to the foot proper or with one
attached directly to the presser bar, as well as with an independent clamping
device, or it can be used in connection with trimming attachments unprovided with
clamping fingers.
In sewing it is very often desirable to release the tension upon the thread so as
to allow it to be drawn freely from the spool. For this purpose a spring arm or
plate is clamped between the base of the disc tension, and is so bent that it
naturally springs away from the tension discs. Opposite the space between the
tension discs is a small teat or projection which by pressing upon the upper end of
the spring arm or plate is forced between the tension discs, spreading them apart
and releasing their grip upon the thread.
The lower end of the connection rod which operates the needle lever is provided
on the side adjacent to the fly wheel with a counter-bored eccentric recess within
which is enclosed an eccentric running flange or boss which is made in one piece
with the fly wheel and eccentrics. The said flange or boss projects radially beyond
the adjacent surface and terminates in a thin edge which is entirely within the
recess. The outer or right hand face of the boss is inclined and tends to cause the
thread to slip away from the joint.
The flange or boss is separated slightly from the shoulder constituting the
bottom of the recess so as not to interfere with the motion of the connection rod
for working the needle bar in adapting itself to the different positions of the needle
lever and eccentric. The recess is made of sufficient depth to contain the edge of
the flange or boss, and not at any time to uncover it.
Any oil escaping from the eccentric joint or otherwise getting upon the outer
face of the flange or boss will, when the machine is in operation, travel up the
incline by the centrifugal action and be thrown off against the enclosing wall of
the recess. Any oil which may run down the connection rod from the joint with
the needle lever and which otherwise would run over the face of the said rod,
is caught by a groove or channel in and delivered at the bottom of the eccentric
strap. The lower end or bottom of this strap being rounded so that the lowest
point is in the middle the oil will drop off clear of the rim of the fly wheel.
A collar is fixed on the driving shaft on the opposite side of the shaft bearing
from the eccentrics. It is provided with a flange or boss which differs from the
flange or boss before described only in being concentric with the shaft instead of
eccentric thereto. This flange or boss fits within a recess in the machine frame,
and throws off any oil which may get thereon against the enclosing wall of the said
recess. The oil is thus prevented from spreading over the body of the collar. The
main driving shaft may be supported in the upper part of the gooseneck and
operate the needle bar through a direct connection at the front end or it may be
supported at the lower part thereof and operate the needle from a cain or eccentric
within the gooseneck, through a needle lever, or needle lever and connection rod.
The By wheel and pulley is provided with a concentric flange which fits within a
recess in the machine frame. The said flange keeps threads from getting into the
joint and also prevents the oil from spreading over the wheel. The running
flange or boss could be made integral with the shaft where it is necessary or
desirable.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
17th October 1883.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman "IMPROVEMENTS IN OR CONNECTED WITH MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND
TRIMMING OR CUTTING FABRICS OR OTHER MATERIALS, THE SAID IMPROVEMENTS
BEING IN PART APPLICABLE TO OTHER MACHINERY a cominunicaton to me from
Charles Henry Willcox a person resident in New York City in the County and
State of New York in the United States of America
"
This Invention has reference more particularly to machines for simultaneously
sewing and trimming knit goods and other fabric but is in part applicable to
sewing machines generally.
It consists firstly in the combination with a sewing machine having an under
feed and trimming attachment therefor of means for relieving at each descent of
the needle the pressure of the presser foot so that the machine may sew and trim
around small circles such for example as the ends of glove fingers. Such means
although heretofore known have never been used in or combined with sewing and
trimming machines.
The second part of the invention comprises certain improved means for
automatically relieving the pressure of the presser foot. A vibratory lever or
other suitable reciprocating piece acts upon the presser foot through a spring
which serves as the medium of communication and through which a continuous
and unbroken connection is maintained. The use of contact devices or stops is
avoided (the vibratory lever or reciprocating piece being disconnected from the
presser foot except through the continuous elastic connection) so that the hard
and noisy action due to the rapid striking of surfaces is avoided.
The spring is compressed on the ascent of the needle bar so as to force down
the presser foot at the time of the feed and is allowed to expand on the ensuing
descent of the needle so as to allow the fabric to be turned while the needle is
in the work. This portion of the invention comprises also certain other
constructions and combinations of elements which will be hereafter described.
The third part of the invention comprises improvements in the trimming
attachment to wit in the mechanism for automatically clamping the work for a
short time at each stitch so as to hold it stationary while the trimmer is cutting
and then to relieve it while the feed takes place and also in the means for
adjusting the position of the upper shear blade of the trimmer and of the clamping
finger relatively to the stitch forming devices or in other words, for regulating
their distance from the line of seam.
The improvement in the clamping mechanism consists in operating the clamping
device or finger through an elastic lever arm or flat spring connected at one end
to a rock shaft which carries the clamping device or finger and at the other to
an eccentric strap or other reciprocating piece. Preferably the spring is connected
with the same strap which operates the upper shear blade of the trimmer but not
necessarily so since it can be operated by a separate eccentric and strap or from
some other part of the sewing machine or trimming attachment. The principal
advantage of this arrangement is that the pressure upon the clamping finger adjusts
itself automatically to the thickness of the work beneath being heavier as the work
is thicker. It possesses advantages also in the way of simplicity durability and in
the gradual application and release of the pressure and further in permitting the
degree of pressure to be readily adjusted by altering the position of the elastic arm
relatively to the rock shaft.

page_text: The improvement in the means for adjusting the position of the clamping device
or finger and of the upper or vibratory shear blade relatively to the stitching
mechanism consists in adapting the rock shaft and clamping device or finger carried
thereby to be adjusted in the line of its (the said shaft's) length, and in connecting
the said rock shaft and that which carries the vibratory cutter or shear blade, so
that they are or may be moved together by one adjusting device. This part of
the Invention may be considered an improvement upon addition to or modification
of the attachment described in the Specification to Letters Patent granted to John
Henry Johnson dated August 29th 1882 Number 4113.
The fourth part of the Invention consists in combining with a trimmer or
trimming attachment a presser foot having a hinge between the foot proper and
the presser bar and so constructed as to allow the trimmer to operate along side of
the rear portion of the presser foot, also in combining the hinged foot with a
clamping finger so disposed that a cutter may work between them, and also in the
special construction of the hinge joint so that the said joint and the spring connected
therewith are protected from foreign matters.
The fifth part of the invention consists in a special device for relieving at the
will of the operator the clamp of the disc tension on the thread to wit in a spring
plate having a small teat adapted when forced between the tension discs to separate
and hold them apart; devices of various kinds have been made for this purpose
but it is unnecessary here to describe them.
The sixth part of the Invention (which is partly applicable to machines for
purposes other than sewing) consists in means for preventing threads from the
machine or loose threads lying upon the work table from being caught between
rotating and non-rotating parts and also to prevent the spreading of oil. These
means comprise a flange on the rotating part fitting within a recess on the adjacent
non-rotating part so that the joint between the two is closed and so that also the
oil thrown by centrifugal force from the running flange will be confined within the
enclosing recess.
In the joint between the connecting rod and the eccentric and driven pulley on
the main shaft the said running flange is eccentric and the recess in the adjacent
face of the connecting rod (which in this case is the non-rotating part) is eccentric
also. This part of the invention further comprises certain particular constructions
and combinations of parts as hereinafter described.
The seventh part of the invention relates to an improved eye pointed needle.
These needles comprise each a shank by which the needle is secured in the needle
bar or needle arm and a blade of smaller diameter pointed at the lower end which
pierces the work. Ordinarily the blade is of substantially the same diameter
between the top of the taper forming the point and the bottom of the taper where
it merges into the shank. In the improved needle the upper part is made of greater
diameter than the lower. In sewing hard material such as leather the needle while
it is in the work binds the thread more or less against the side of the hole which it
has made in the fabric. With the ordinary needle this binding continues until the
eye of the needle in the descent of the latter reaches the top of the work. With the
improved needle the thread is released so soon as the enlarged upper part passes
out of the work.
This operation is specially important in machines such as chain stitch machines
which draw up the preceeding stitch at least in part while the needle is in the
work.
The improvement also enables the needle to have a shorter point than the ordinary
needle for the reason that the blade at the eye is of less diameter than the ordinary
needle used for the same work. The taper at the point it has been found imprac-
ticable to extend above the eye.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same and for that purpose shall refer to
the several figures on the annexed sheet of drawings the same letters of
reference indicating corresponding parts in all the figures.

page_text: Figure 1 is a view in front elevation partly in vertical longitudinal section of a
Bewing machine with trimming attachment or a sewing and trimming machine
embodying the invention.
Figures 2 and 3 views of the same in plan and end elevation respectively the
end elevation being partly in vertical cross section and
Figures 4 and 5 are views in plan and end elevation respectively of the trimming
attachment with a small part of the sewing machine.
Figures 6 and 7 are views in vertical section in planes at right angles to each
other of the hinged presser foot detached. In figure 7 the presser foot has a
clamping finger attached to it which finger may be used in place of the independent
clamping device shown in the other figures.
Figure 8 is a detail view illustrating the device for relieving at will the tension
and Figure 9 a similar view showing the position of the cutter or blade relatively to
the needle.
Figures 10 and 11 are perspective views respectively of the connecting rod and
the fly wheel or pulley with the eccentrics. Figure 12 a vertical section showing
the application of the enclosed joint with running flange to a machine having
the fly wheel immediately adjacent to the stationary arm or gooseneck. and
Figure 13 an enlarged detail view of the improved needle showing the same in the
work.
A is the machine frame. A' the main shaft. As the fly wheel. A* the looper
or hook. A³ the needle lever. Aº the needle bar. A7 the presser bar, and As the
cloth plate, all of the construction usual in the Willcox and Gibbs sewing machine,
or of any other ordinary or suitable construction.
The feed mechanism Aº as shown embodies the improvements described in Letters
Patent dated March 28th 1882 but feed mechanism of any ordinary or suitable
construction may be used.
C¹ the
The disc tension B, the intermittent tension B', the bar B³, the pull off B³, and
the check tension B* are construeted and arranged as described in above recited
Letters Patent. These may be replaced by other suitable thread controlling
apparatus if desired. The presser foot B and the trimming attachment are con-
structed in the main as described in Letters Patent before mentioned B being the
trimmer frame or frame of the attachment Be the stationary blade or adjustable
cutter bar. B' the set screw for holding the same in position. BB the vibratory
blade or cutter. B the rock shaft carrying said cutter. C the lever arm.
link or eccentric strap. C³ the pin connecting the link or strap with the cutter
operating arm and furnishing a long bearing which permits the longitudinal
adjustment of said rock shaft. Č³ the eccentric fixed on shaft A. C' a spiral
compression spring encircling the rock shaft B and tending to force it to the right
(Figuro 1) so as to hold the edges of cutters B6 and B8 in contact with each other.
C³ is a lever which enables the operator to lift the presser bar and presser foot by
means of a treadle connected with the right hand end. The presser bar A' is
connected by a screw with a plunger Co which is free to slide in a hole in the
machine frame and which is pressed down by means of a spiral compression
spring C. So far there is nothing new in the machine and the brief description
given in connection with the drawings and the patents referred to will suffice for
a full understanding of the new improvements which will now be described.
Ordinarily the spring which depresses the presser bar and presser foot and
which is represented by the spiral spring C' (although it may be and often is of a
different construction) bears at its upper end against an adjusting screw or nut or a
fixed portion of the machine frame. In the present invention it bears against the
lever arm D through the intermediary of the pin C and disc C fixed thereon.
The pin C moves in guides in the machine frame and in the plunger C and its
upper end fits into a recess in the end of the lever arm D. The lever arm D is
carried by a short shaft D¹ journalled in the machine frame and is operated from
the needle lever A through the arm D³ (fastened to the opposite end of the
shaft D¹) and the link D. "At each vibration of the needle lever, therefore the

page_text: lever D D D is vibrated also and produces a reciprocation of the pin Cs and
disc C. When the needle bar rises the pin and disk are forced down by the lever
arm D, compressing the spring C' which thereupon communicates its pressure
through the plunger C to the presser bar and presser foot so that the latter clamps
the work with suitable pressure.
When the needle bar descends the lever arm D and the pin and disc C³ C³ rise and
allow the spring C' to expand and relieve the pressure of the presser foot upon the
work so that the latter can easily be turned. The parts are so disposed that when
the spring C7 is expanded to its fullest extent it exerts little or no pressure. It is
however often desirable that the work should be relieved of the pressure due to
the weight of the presser foot and presser bar as well as of that due to any pressure
of the spring. To effect this relief an antagonistic spring E is arranged to exert its
force to lift the presser bar. It is shown as a spiral compression spring interposed
between the fixed pin E' and the bottom of the plunger C. The power thereof is
less than that of the presser spring C7 so that it does not prevent the presser foot
being held down by suitable pressure but it suffices to lift the presser bar and
presser foot when the pressor spring C7 is expanded. It is obviously desirable that
the pressure with which the presser foot is held down should admit of variation
according to the nature of the work. The desired adjustment may be effected in
various ways.
As shown the connection between the lever arm D³ and the short
shaft D is made by a screw clamp. By loosening said clamp and turning the
shaft with the lever arm D to the right or left the amount of compression of the
presser spring C and consequently the pressure of the presser foot upon the work
may be regulated at will. It will be noticed that the pressure is gradually applied
to and withdrawn from the presser foot and that the latter remains in contact
with the work except for a very short time at each stitch.
Referring now to the trimming attachment F is a clamping device or finger for
holding the work or fabric down upon the stationary cutter bar or blade B. It is
carried by one end of a rock shaft F' journalled in the trimmer frame B. The
opposite or right hand end of the rock shaft is connected by an elastic lever
arm F and a link F³ with the pin C³. The arm F2 is as shewn a flat spring
which is at opposite ends screwed to the pieces F F³ the former F having a hub
by which it is attached to the rock shaft F' and the latter F³ recessed to receivo
the upper end of link F³ and drilled and tapped to receive the screw pin F° by
which said link is jointed thereto. The pin C being reciprocated by the
eccentric O³ through the link or strap 0' the clamping device or finger F is at each
stitch made to press upon and clamp the work alongside the vibratory cutter B³.
So soon as the finger or clamping device bears upon the work the elastic arm or
spring F² bends and exerts its pressure thereon. The pin C* continuing its descent
the pressure is gradually increased until the eccentric link or strap C has passed
the lower dead point when the pin C rising gradually withdraws the pressure, and
after a while lifts the clamping device or finger clear of the work. The movement
of the pin C being the same the thicker the work between the clamping device
and the cutter bar or blade Be the more the arın or spring F is bent and con-
sequently the heavier the pressure upon the work. The pressure can be adjusted
at will by altering the connection between the piece F and the rock shaft F¹ the
hub of said piece F* being as shown clamped by a set screw upon the rock shaft so
as to admit of the adjustment. The rock shafts B' and F¹ are both adjustable
lengthwise in their bearings so as to bring the vibratory cutter or blade B and
the clamping device or finger F nearer to or farther from the needle. To adjust
the positions of both the set screw G is employed. This set screw which is
parallel to the two rock shafts is tapped into the trimmer frame and its end is split
to cause it to retain the position at which it is set. Other means such as a set
screw could be used to retain it in position. A radial flange G' on said screw has
its edge let into a notch in the hub of piece F so that the said piece the rock
shaft F and the clamping device or finger F follow the longitudinal motions of the

page_text: set screw. The flange also forms a back stop to the rock shaft B so that it with
the vibratory cutter also follows the longitudinal movements of the set screw.
Thus the vibratory cutter or blade and the clamping device or finger are or may be
simultaneously adjusted nearer to or farther from the line of stitching and the
clamping device or finger will always be (without care on the part of the operator)
in the closest proximity to the virbratory cutter or blade in all positions of the
latter. A screw G² tapped into the triminer frame and having its and inserted
into a groove in the set screw G limits the adjustment thereof in both directions.
The clamping device or finger is shown as curved to clear the presser bar but if
desired the presser bar could be cut away instead. It is found advantageous in sewing
around circles particularly if of small diameter to cut the fabric alongside the
needle and not wholly behind it. The vibratory cutter or blade is therefore
extended and in order that it may still cut in close proximity to the needle the
end is bevelled or inclined to the vertical on the side adjacent to the needle. (See
Figures 4 and 9).
In order that the cutters may not interfere with the turning of the work in
sewing around small circles the eccentric which operates the vibratory cutter, and
the clamping device or finger are so set that the vibratory cutter rises slightly
before the presser foot resumes its hold on the fabric while the needle is still in
the work and the body of the latter is entirely free. The vibratory cutter and the
clamping device or finger descend with the needle and rise with it. This is the
most advantageous arrangement but work can be performed with the parts
differently timed.
The presser foot B' has been said to be in the main like that shown in said
patent dated March 28th 1882 but it differs therefrom in having the foot proper
(or the sole as it may be called) hinged so that by working on the hinge it will
allow seans and thick places to pass without losing its pressure upon other parts
of the work. The hinge (as shown in Figures 3 and 6) has its pivot at I between
the foot proper or sole and the portion I' which is fastened to the lower end of the
presser bar.
In order that the cutters may work in close proximity to the line of stitching
and to the needle the presser foot behind the needle is made of half width.
The cutting portion of the trimmer is placed at the side of the hinge or rear part
of the presser foot so that when the latter is tilted by the passage of a seam the
heel or rear part will maintain its pressure upon the work alongside of said cutting
portion and will hold it firmly under the action of the trimmer. With the ordinary
rigid foot the passage of a seam would lift the foot bodily and for a time relieve
the pressure alongside of the cutter and thus for such time lessen the efficiency of
the trimmer.
In order that the cutters may work in close proximity to the line of stitching
and to the needle the presser foot behind the needle is made of half width and
the plates 1 1 1 of the hinge are made thin so as to be contained in the space
allowed. At the same time strength is given to the hinge by making the said
plates deep. A spring Is is combined with the hinge. It tends to keep the foot
proper level while allowing it to tilt as occasion may require. To protect the
spring it is placed in an opening in the plate I³ its free end acting upon the pin 1º
fixed in the plates I* I*.
To prevent foreign matter such as lint and the like working between the hinge
plates the edges of these are curved at 1718 upon arcs struck from the pivot I as a
centre. In putting the parts together the spring is placed in its recess the plates
are interleaved and the pivot pin is inserted and secured. The free end of the
spring is then pushed back by a small rod or wire inserted through the hole Iº and
the pin I is then fixed in position in front of said end and the rod or wire is
removed. Space for the vibratory cutter is left between the clamping device or
finger F and the rear part of the presser foot. The hinge foot may be used with
a clamping finger attached to the foot proper as shown at F* Figure 7 or with one

page_text: attached directly to the presser bar as well as with an independent clamping device
as shewn in the other figures; or it can be used in connection with trimming
attachments unprovided with clamping fingers. It may be observed that hinged
presser feet have heretofore been used in sewing machines but never in combination
with a trimmer or trimming attachment.
'In sewing it is very often desirable to release the tension upon the thread so as
to allow it to be drawn freely from the spool. For this purpose the spring arm or
plate H is employed. It is clamped between the base of the disk tension and
is so bent that it naturally springs away from the tension discs. Opposite the
space between the tension disks is a small teat H². The operator by pressing upon
the upper end of the spring arm or plate H (which is bent to allow his finger or
thumb to rest more comfortably thereon) the teat H2 is forced between the tension
discs, spreading them apart and releasing their grip upon the thread. The
automatic or intermittent tension B¹ of course releases the thread automatically at
each stitch.
Referring to figures 1, 10 and 11. The lower end of the connection rod which
operates the needle lever A³ is provided on the side adjacent to the fly wheel A³
with a counter bored eccentric recess L within which is enclosed an eccentric
running flange or boss K which is made in one piece with the fly wheel A³ and
eccentrics F15. G15.. .The said flange or boss K projects radially beyond the adjacent
surface N and terminates in a thin edge which is entirely within the recess L.
The outer or right hand face P is inclined.
The flange or boss K is separated slightly from the shoulder constituting the
bottom of the recess L so as not to interfere with the motion of the connection
rod E in adapting itself to the different positions of the needle lever A³ and
eccentric F15 The recess L is made of sufficient depth to contain the edge of the
flange or boss K and not at any time to uncover it. Q is the oil collecting groove
or channel at the bottom of the eccentric rod.
In operation the flange or boss K being contained in the recess L the joint
between the inner face of the flange or boss and the adjacent face of the connection
rod is protected by the body of said rod. The joint between the edge of the flange
in boss K and the enclosing wall of the recess L being circular is not liable to catch
or to admit the introduction of threads and other foreign matters.
The inclined face P of the flange or boss tends also to make the thread slip
away from the joint. Any oil escaping from the eccentric joint or otherwise
getting upon the outer face of the flange or boss K will when the machine is in
operation travel up the incline P by the centrifugal action and be thrown off
against the enclosing wall of the recess L. Any oil which may run down the
connection rod from the joint with the needle lever and which otherwise would
run over the outer or right hand face of the said rod is caught by the groove
or channel and delivered at the bottom of the eccentric strap. The lower
end or bottom of this strap being rounded so that the lowest point is in
the middle the oil will drop off said lowest point clear of the rim of the fly
wheel.
Ris a collar which is fixed on the shaft A³ on the opposite side of the shaft
bearing from the eccentrics. It is provided with a flange or boss K' which differs
from the flange or boss K only in being concentric with the shaft instead of
eccentric thereto. This said flange or boss K' fits within the recess L' in the
machine frame and throws off any oil which may get thereon against the enclosing
wall of said recess. The oil is thus prevented from spreading over the body of the
collar. In Figure 12 the main shaft A² may be considered as supported in the
upper part of the gooseneck and operating the needle bar through a direct
connection at the front end or as supported at the lower part thereof and operating
the needle from a cam or eccentric within the gooseneck through a needle lever or
needle lever and connection rod. The fly wheel and pulley A³ is provided with a
concentric flange K' which fits within the recess L' in the machine frame. The

page_text: said flange keeps threads from getting into the joint and also prevents the oil from
spreading over the wheel. The running flange or boss could be made integral with
the shaft where it is necessary or desirable.
Referring to figure 13 a is the shank of the needle b the upper part of the
blade, c the lower part of smaller diameter and d the point. When the needle
descends the larger part b makes a hole of its own size and when it is retracted a
space is left around the needle blade owing to the smaller diameter of the part c.
This space allows the looper A to draw the slack thread of the preceding stitch
Bore easily. This is very desirable in sewing hard material such as leather and
straw which hug the needle closely.
The diameter of the blade just above the eye being less than in the ordinary
form of needle the point may be made slimmer than heretofore without increasing
the length thereof. The needle point could be made in any form desired, as round,
triangular, or chisel pointed.
Modifications may be made in the details of construction without departing
from the spirit of the invention and portions of the invention may be used
'separately. For example the means for relieving the pressure of the presser foot
could be used in sewing machines not having a trimming attachment, for sewing
straw and for other purposes; or in machines having trimming attachments
differing from that described and so also the trimming attachment could be used
independently. At the same time it should be understood that the machine shown
embodies the invention in its best and most complete form. It will be seen that
the means for applying and releasing the pressure of the clamping device or finger
are analogous to those for applying and releasing the pressure of the presser foot in
that both apply and withdraw the pressure gradually through a spring from a
reciprocating or vibrating device without any striking of stops. Obviously the
presser spring could be made to bear directly against the inovable device for
compressing it, instead of through the intermediary of a pin as shown.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original
and therefore claim as the invention secured to me by the hereinbefore in part
recited Letters Patent is :-
--
First: The combination with a sewing machine having a four motion under
feed and provided with a trimming attachment of mechanism for automatically
relieving the pressure of the presser foot while the needle is below the cloth plato
and the feed surface depressed and for restoring the said pressure on the rise of the
needle and feed surface whereby the sewing and trimming around small circles is
facilitated.
Second-The combination of the sewing machine the trimmer carried by a
stationary part of the machine such as the cloth plate the automatic mechanism
for relieving the pressure of the presser foot on the descent of the needle and for
restoring it on the ascent of said needle, and mechanism for operating the movable
blade or cutter of the said trimmer substantially as described.
Third: In a sewing machine the combination with the presser foot and under
feed of mechanism comprising a reciprocating device and spring for automatically
depressing the presser foot on the ascent of the needle through the compression of
said spring by said reciprocating device and for relieving its pressure on the descent
of the needle substantially as described.
Fourth-The combination in a sewing machine of a cloth or work clamping
device a reciprocating piece and an interposed spring through the medium of
which pressure is conveyed to said clamping device from said reciprocating piece
the said clamping device spring and reciprocating piece being arranged sub-
stantially as described so that the pressure of the clamping device may be
alternately applied and relieved without the striking contact of rigid surfaces as
Bet forth.

page_text: Fifth-The combination with the presser foot and needle lever of the vibratory
lever, spring and cooperating devices arranged to convey an intermittent pressure
to the presser foot from the needle lever through the spring substantially as
described.
Sixth-The combination of the needle lever, link and vibratory lever with the
presser foot and intermediate devices whereby the pressure of the said foot is
automatically relieved or withdrawn substantially as described.
Seventh-The combination with the presser foot presser spring and movable
part for automatically compressing and relieving said spring of the antagonistic
spring substantially as described.
Eighth-The combination with a clamping device movable piece such as an
eccentric strap for example and interposed spring of adjusting means for varying
the pressure without altering the movement of said piece substantially as described..
Ninth -The combination of the presser foot presser spring vibratory lever, link
and needle lever substantially as described.
Tenth-The combination of the presser foot vibratory lever presser spring
interposed between said lever and said presser foot and adjusting means for varying
the pressure on said spring without altering the stroke of the lever substantially
as described.
Eleventh: The combination of the presser foot presser spring antagonistic
spring and vibratory lever, substantially as described.
Twelfth :-The combination of the presser foot, presser spring, antagonistic
spring vibratory lever and adjusting means substantially as described.
:-
Thirteenth The combination of the presser foot, presser spring antagonistic
spring, vibratory lever, link and needle lever, substantially as described.
Fourteenth-The combination of the presser foot, presser bar, plunger, presser
spring, antagonistic spring, disc and pin, and vibratory lever, substantially as
described.
Fifteenth-In a trimmer or trimming attachment the combination with the
clamping device or finger of a movable piece such as an eccentric strap or a link
and a spring interposed between the said piece and the said clamping device or
finger and serving to communicate pressure from the former to the latter
substantially as described.
Sixteenth-The combination of the clamping device or finger the rock shaft,
the elastic lever arm, and the movable piece for operating on the end of said arm
to rock said shaft substantially as described.
Seventeenth-The combination with the trimming mechanism of the clamping
device or finger for clamping the work alongside of the cutting portion of the
trimmer, a movable piece such as the eccentric strap or link the interposed spring
and adjusting means for regulating the spring pressure, substantially as described.
Eighteenth-The combination of the clamping device or finger, the rock shaft,
the elastic lever arm, the link or eccentric strap and the eccentric, substantially as
described.
Nineteenth-The combination of the two rock shafts, the common eccentric
and strap or link, the lever arm for rocking one shaft and the elastic lever arm for
operating the other substantially as described.
Twentieth-In combination with a rock shaft, elastic lever arm attached thereto,
and formed of a flat spring, the link connected with the outer end of said spring
and the reciprocating part with which the other end of said spring is connected
substantially as described.
Twenty first:-The combination in a trimmer with the clamping device or finger,
of the rock shaft carrying said device or finger, and adjusting means for moving
the same longitudinally substantially as described.
Twenty second:-The combination of the movable cutter or blade and the
clamping device or finger, of adjusting means common to both for simultaneously
adjusting them, substantially as described.

page_text: Twenty third The combination with the two rock shafts capable of longitu-
dinal adjustment of the flanged set screw connected with both for adjusting them
simultaneously substantially as described
Twenty fourth-The combination of the two rock shafts, set screw connected
with both, and means for limiting the play of the set screw, substantially as
described.
Twenty fifth-In a sewing and trimming machine a vibratory shear blade or
cutter arranged on the needle side of the line of trimming, with its front and at the
side of the needle and provided with a vertical bevel at said end on the face
adjacent to the needle, in combination with a stationary shear blade or cutter
arranged on the side of the line of trimming away from the needle and having its
cutting edge extended alongside the needle so that the said shear blade may cut
alongside the needle at a distance therefrom less than the thickness of the vibratory
blade or cutter substantially as described.
Twenty sixth-The combination with the tension discs of a spring arm provided
with a teat for entering between and separating the said discs substantially as
described.
Twenty seventh :-In a sewing and trimming machine the combination of the
hinged presser foot; and the trimmer having its cutting portion at the side of the
hinge or heel of the presser foot so that the said presser foot at all times during
the passage of a seam clamps the work alongside the said cutting portion and
assists the cutting operation substantially as described.
Twentyeighth-The combination of the hinged presser foot the clamping
finger and the cutter working between said finger and the hinge or rear part of the
presser foot substantially as described.
Twentyninth-A binged presser foot made of half width behind the needle
and having narrow and deep hinge plates in combination with a cutter arranged
and operating alongside of said plates substantially as described.
Thirtieth-A hinged presser foot having an enclosed spring combined with the
hinged joint substantially as described.
Thirty first-The combination of the interleaved hinge plates, enclosed spring,
pivot pin, and the pin against which the spring presses substantially as described.
Thirty second:-The hinged presser foot comprising in combination an
attaching portion, the foot proper, the interleaved hinge plates having curved
edges, the pivot pin, the additional pin and the enclosed spring substantially as
described..
Thirty third: In a sewing or other machine the combination with a revolving
shaft a wheel or similar device carried thereby and a non-rotating part of the
machine recessed on the side adjacent to said wheel of a flange or boss revolving
with said shaft and wheel and fitting within said recess substantially as
described.
Thirty fourth-The combination with the wheel and driven pulley of a sewing
machine and an adjacent non-rotating part of the machine of a boss or flango
fitting within a recess and forming an enclosed joint between said wheel and
pulley and the adjacent non-rotating part of the machine substantially as
described.
Thirty fifth-The combination of an eccentric a connection rod, and an eccentric
boss or flange fitting within a recess in said connection rod, substantially as
described.
Thirty sixth-In a sewing or other machine the vertical connection rod
provided with an oil collecting groove or channel at its lower part substantially
as described.
Thirty seventh-The combination with the non-rotating part of a sewing
machine such as the connection rod or frame of a sewing machine and a rotating
part such as the fly wheel and pulley of said machine of a rotating flange or
boss projecting radially beyond the adjacent surface and terminating in a thin

page_text: edge and fitting within a recess which encloses said edge substantially as
described.
Thirty eighth-The improved needle substantially as herein shewn and
described.
In witness whereof I the said John Henry Johnson have to this my
Specification set my hand and seal this sixteenth day of October One thousand
eight hundred and eighty three.
J. DENRY JOHNSON (L.S.)