Improvements in the Manufacture of Tulle, Lace, and similar materials, and in Looms therefor.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Sept., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 15th June, 1893-Accepted, 22nd July, 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Tulle, Lace, and similar
materials, and in Looms therefor.
I, WILLIAM HENRY SMITH, of the Firm of Smith-Goard, of Calais, in the
Republic of France, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object mechanical arrangements for obtaining relief
effects on tulles, and laces, made on Leavers, curtain, or other looms, as well as the
new products resulting from this manufacture.
My invention consists :-
1. In placing fine metallic strips or blades between the threads composing the
foundation, and other threads intended to produce the relief effect.
These strips are fixed at their lower ends in transverse bars which are situated
below the carriages between which they pass rising up above the points to the
centre bar on which they rest.
The strips are attached to the transverse bars by piercing the above named bars
with holes to receive each strip; in forming these bars with turned up edges of the
dished shape and in inserting the strips in these holes, the strips being attached to
the bars by soldering, or in any other suitable manner.
2. There is a strip between each carriage when the loom is working. To
facilitate however the picking up of a broken thread, by the workman, in the
foundation bars situated behind the strips, several bars are employed to carry the
strips. If all the strips were placed on a single bar, the picking up again of
threads broken in the foundation bars behind the strips, would be impossible for
the workman.
A lever is placed at one end of the loom, (at a certain distance between the
frame proper of the loom and the jacquard), and connected to the bars to collect
the strips in a single carriage.
The number of strips drawn together in a line will depend on the number of
strip-carrying bars employed, that is to say if four strip bars be employed there
will be, in each carrying bar one strip for every four carriages, and when the lever
is operated the four strips will be drawn over to the same point leaving between
them a space corresponding to three carriages, thus allowing the workman to insert
his hook.
If there be two strip bars employed the space for inserting the hook will be that
of one carriage, and if six bars be employed, in a similar manner to that already
described then when the lever is operated, the six strips will be collected or drawn
over to one point, and leave a space equal to five carriages to allow the workman
to insert his hook.
The upper part of the strips rest on the centre bar, and when the strips are
collected in the same plane by the lever causing the bars to slide at their lower
end to allow of the workman inserting his hook, the upper ends of the strips, which
lie between the points, do not change their positions, but remain in place; it is
therefore only the lower parts of the strips which are displaced to allow of the
workman picking up broken threads.
Consequently any suitable number of strip-carrying bars may be employed, and
as there is one strip per carriage, the greater the number of strip carrying bars
employed, the more the strips will be separated from one another in each strip bar.
3. In employing sufficiently fine strips to allow of a foundation being obtained of
the full gauge of the loom, whilst obtaining the desired relief effect.
A relief effect has already been produced consisting of simple spots as in pile

page_text: spots, and to obtain this effect stout wires were placed between the foundation
hreads and those forming the relief and it became necessary to reduce the gauge
of the loom, that is to say, to dispense with one of every two carriages, so that it
vas only possible to make, on the loom, a half gauge foundation.
It is possible, by this arrangement of fine strips, to produce an assortment of
relief designs of different shapes, and sizes, according to the requirements of the
foliage of the patterns, on a full gauge ground, that is to say, without doing away
with one out of every two carriages or even out of every three, or four, in fact
vithout removing any.
Of course, I reserve the exclusive right according to the requirements of the
articles, of using any number of fine strips arranged as herein before described,
hat is to say for instance, for making veiling with tulle foundation, and a small
pot as relief, I only employ one fine strip at all the places where it is desired to
epeat the design, either at the sixth, tenth or twelfth carriages, or at other greater
or lesser intervals, according to the distance which it may be desired to maintain
between the designs.
4. I adopt two methods of connecting the thread of the relief with the
oundation.
a With the bobbin threads.
b With fine threads which must be arranged in bars above the bars carrying
the threads of the relief pattern, and which will hold the threads forming
the relief by being twisted into the foundation.
5. I place, according to the pattern which is to be made
:
a The embroidering threads between the strips and the foundation threads,
these embroidering threads not being intended to form the relief, but only
a border for either the relief parts or for objects made with the foundation
or with guimp bars also placed between the strip-carrying bars, and the
foundation bars.
I also if necessary place guimp bars between the foundation bars as in the
case of centre guimps or even behind the foundation, as in the case of
Spanish back and front guimp.
I reserve the right to use different strips, in order to produce velvet (plush)
effects, and in this case the strips may have cutting edges and be broader at their
apper ends.
Í also reserve the right of varying the width of the strips according to the relief
pattern it is desired to form in the different articles.
Dated this 19th day of September 1892.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester, Patent Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Tulle, Lace, and similar
materials, and in Looms therefor.
I, WILLIAM HENRY SMITH, of the Firm of Smith-Goard, of Calais, in the
Republic of France, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object mechanical arrangements for obtaining relief
effects ou tulles, and laces, made on Leavers, curtain, or other looms, as well as
the new products resulting from this manufacture.
The accompanying drawing shows, as an example, the application of this
invention to a Leavers loom.
Fig. 1. Longitudinal elevation of this loom, arranged in conformity with this
invention.

page_text: 8
Fig. 3. Transverse section.
Fig. 4. Detail (enlarged scale) of the mode of construction of the bars carrying
the strips.
For the sake of clearness the combs D are shown in chain dots, and the
carriages C in full lines in Figs. 1 and 2.
My invention consists :-
1. In placing the fine metallic strips or blades a a' a² a³ a' between the threads
composing the foundation, and other threads intended to produce the relief effect.
These strips are fixed at their lower ends in transverse bars A' A' A³ A* which
are situated below the carriages C, between which they pass rising up above the
points PP to the centre bar B on which they rest.
The strips a are attached to the transverse bars A (Fig. 4) by piercing the
above named bars with holes o to receive each strip, the bars A are formed with
turned up edges of the dished shape shown in Fig. 4, and the strips a are inserted
in these holes, the strips being attached to the bars by soldering, or in any other
suitable manner.
2. There
one of the strips a placed between each carriage C when the loom is
working. To facilitate however the picking up of a broken thread, by the
workman, in the foundation bars situated behind the strips, several bare A' A*A*A*
are employed to carry the strips. If all the strips a were placed on a single bar
the picking up again of threads broken in the foundation bars behind the strips,
would be impossible for the workman.
A lever L is placed at one end of the loom, (at a certain distance between the
frame proper of the loom and the jacquard), and connected to each of the
bars A A A A to collect the strips a¹ a² a a in a single carriage.
The number of strips a drawn together in a line will depend on the number of
strip carrying bars A employed, that is to say if four strip bars A. (as shown in
Figs. 3 and 4) be employed, there will be in each carrying bar one strip a for every
four carriages, and when the lever L is operated the four strips will be drawn over
to the same point leaving between them a space a corresponding to three carriages,
thus allowing the workman to insert his hook.
If there be two strip bars employed the space for inserting the hook will be that
of one carriage, and if six bars be employed, in a similar manner to that already
described then when the lever is operated, the six strips will be collected or drawn
over to one point, and leave a space equal to five carriages to allow the workman
to insert his hook.
The upper part of all the strips a rest on the centre bar B, and when the strips
are collected in the same plane by the lever L causing the bars A to slide at their
lower end to allow of the workman inserting his hook, the upper ends y of the strips,
which lie between the points P do not change their positions, but remain in place;
it is therefore only the lower parts of the strips a which are displaced to allow of
the workman picking up broken threads.
Any suitable number of strip carrying bars A may be employed, and as there is
one strip a per carriage, the greater the number of strip carrying bars employed,
the more the strips will be separated from one another in each strip bar.
3. In employing sufficiently fine strips to allow of a foundation being obtained of
the full gauge of the loom, whilst obtaining the desired relief effect.
A relief effect has already been produced consisting of simple spots as in pile
spots and to obtain this effect stout wires were placed between the foundation
threads and those forming the relief and it became necessary to reduce the gauge
of the loom, that is to say, to dispense with one of every two carriages, so that it
was only possible to make, on the loom, a half gauge foundation.
It is possible, by this arrangement of fine strips, to produce an assortment of
relief designs of different shapes, and sizes, according to the requirements of the
foliage of the patterns, on a full, gauge, ground, that is to say, without doing away

page_text: with one out of every two carriages or even out of every three, or four, in fact
without removing any.
Of course, I reserve the exclusive right according to the requirements of the
articles, of using any number of fine strips arranged as hereinbefore described, that
is to say for instance, for making veiling with tulle foundation, and a small spot as
relief, I only employ one fine strip at all the places where it is desired to repeat
the design, either at the sixth, tenth, or twelfth carriages, or at other greater or
lesser intervals according to the distance which it may be desired to maintain
between the designs.
4. I adopt two methods of connecting the thread of the relief with the
foundation.
(a) With the bobbin threads.
(b) With fine threads which must be arranged in bars above the bars carrying
the threads of the relief pattern, and which will hold the threads forming the
relief by being twisted into the foundation.
5. I place, according to the pattern which is to be made
(a) The embroidering threads betweeen the strips and the foundation threads,
these embroidering threads not being intended to form the relief, but only a
border for either the relief parts or for objects made with the foundation or
with guimp bars also placed between the strip-carrying bars, and the
foundation bars.
(b) I also if necessary place guimp bars between the foundation bars as in the
case of centre guimps or even behind the foundation, as in the case of
Spanish back and front guimp.
I reserve the right to use different strips, in order to produce velvet (plush)
effects, and in this case the strips may have cutting edges and be broader at their
upper ends y.
I also reserve the right of varying the width of the strips according to the relief
pattern it is desired to form in the different articles.
According to variations of the pattern as the machine works, some of the strips
or blades a are held to the centre bar B by the threads working over them to form
the pile effect, while other strips or blades on which there is no pile effect are left
loose at the upper end, and when the carriages C traverse from the back of the
machine, they are displaced being brought forward by the friction of the carriages.
To keep these in place I have fixed a stiff wire in front of the upper end of the
strips or blades a and level with the lower edge of the centre bar B only leaving
space for the strips or blades and the pile on them between this wire and the
centre bar B in this way the strips or blades a are kept in place only sufficient
room being left for the pile, between this wire b and the upper end of the strips or
blades a.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In Leavers and other looms, the use of fine strips (such as a) of metal, or
other suitable material, between the threads forming the foundation or ground
work and the other threads intended to produce relief effects, substantially as
hereinbefore described and shown.
•
2. The combination of these fine strips with any suitable number, (1, 2, 3, 4
etcetera) of bars A, in such a way, that there is always a strip between two
consecutive carriages but that on each strip-carrying bar the strips are placed at a
distance of 1, 2, 3, 4, or more carriages apart from one another according to the
number of strip-carrying bars employed, for the purpose of allowing full gauge
work to be done, and yet of obtaining sufficient space between the strips for the
joining of broken threads, substantially as hereinbefore described.
3. The method of affixing the strips a to the bars A carrying them, by

page_text: perforating these bars with two series of holes, and bending over the edges thereof,
the strips being then inserted and fixed in their corresponding holes, substantially
as described, and with reference to Fig. 4 of the accompanying drawing.
4. The combination of the strip carrying bars A with the lever Las and for
the purpose described and shown.
5. The arrangement of strips having a cutting upper end for obtaining velvet
effects.
6. As new products, tulles and laces having relief, or velvet effects, obtained as.
herein described, the novelty of such products consisting essentially in the fact,
that the relief, or velvet effects are obtained on fine foundations or groundwork in
any suitable device of foliage or arrangement of patterns.
7. The combination and general arrangement of mechanism constructed according
to this invention, as well as the methods of working hereinbefore described, the
whole substantially as described in the Specification and with reference to.
Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 of the accompanying drawing.
Dated this 14th day of June 1893.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Manchester, Liverpool, and London, Patent Agents..
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Manchester, Liverpool, and London, Patent Agents..