IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Collier, of Halifax, in the County of York,
for the Invention of" IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE
MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS."
Sealed the 27th February 1857, and dated the 11th December 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Collier at the
Office of the Commissioners. of Patents, with his Petition, on the 11th
December 1856.
I, GEORGE COLLIER, of Halifax, in the County of York, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS," to be as follows:-
The improvements relate to combinations and adaptations of mechanical
parts for the manufacture of pile or piled fabrics, whereby two like textures
are produced at the same time, such being united in the weaving by the threads
forming the pile, and separated when woven into two distinct fabrics by the
cutting across of such pile.
Heretofore, in the production of such fabrics, to the best of my belief, the
pile warps are divided into only two sets or divisions, each set or division
being alternately tied in with one and then with the other body warp. And
one of my improvements consists in dividing the pile threads into four

page_text: sets or divisions, and in operating each set of such pile threads independently
and so that they may follow each other in succession, or in such other order
that may be desired, so that each of the several sets may in course form one or
other part of each shed, by which, when producing mohair plush by these
means, I am enabled to obtain a tie-in of pile to the fabrics like that heretofore 5
employed when weaving single fabric of mohair plush with a considerable
saving of time. The order of tieing-in may however be varied when weaving
other piled fabrics.
Each set or division of pile warps is operated by a separate leaf of heddles,
and the four leaves of heddles for the pile warps with the other leaves of heddles 1
for operating the back or binding warps are actuated by pairs of levers acted
upon by cams or tappets cut or formed to give them the desired movements,
suitable guides being provided for the leaves of heddles.
Also, I operate both sets of binding warps by only two heddles, each having
two complete sets of eyes; one-heddle serving for one set or division of back 1
or binding warps of each fabric, and the other heddle for the other of each
shed.
Also, the improvements relate to arrangements in connection with and means
of operating the reed for effecting the beat up in such double-fabric looms.
The reed has direct motion given to it so as to beat square against the two
fabrics being produced, and there are combs which at the times of beat up are
capable of sliding along and at the same time of maintaining the spacing of
and of giving additional and intermediate support to the dents or combs of
the reed.
may
Another mode of operating the reed for the beat up is to cause it whilst
moving to beat up as stated, to move sideways, so that the beat be effected
by one or other ends of the dents, in place of the centre of the length of them.
This I effect by a compound parallel and inclined motion to the reed to and
from the beat up. Each pile warp is divided into two equal parts and drawn
from one beam, according to a Patent granted to me (bearing date Dec. 2,
1858), and weight is put upon each of the pile warps used by bars supported
from arms turning upon the axes of the pile warp beams; the weight given by
such bars is aided by springs or weights as required, but I do not confine
myself to the use of only two beams to the four sets or divisions of pile warps.
The back or body warps are supplied from two beams, in passing from
each of which the respective warps pass under a bar carried by weighted arms
from the axes of these beams, and one or both these weighted arms of each
beam are also formed to be operated upon by a wedge or other suitably formed
piece, which is acted upon. at the time of the beat up to give extra tension upon

page_text: the back or body warp at such time. I also use rocking bars, over which these
warps. pass, or other suitable means, capable of being regulated in position to
govern the angular position and consequent tension upon such warps, and keep
the two fabrics separated at the point of weaving a distance corresponding with
the length of pile required, aided by external controlling bars, the eyes of the
healds being spaced to correspond.
The cutting of the pile for the separation of the two fabrics is effected during
the weaving by means of a peculiarly formed cutter wheel, which acting with
a spring blade operates. as a succession of pairs of scissors. The cutter wheel
and spring blade are supported in a frame, to which a traversing motion is
given across and between the two fabrics, whilst a quick rotary motion is at
the same time given to the cutter wheel. The peculiarity of the cutter wheel
consists in its being formed somewhat hollow or concave on that surface next
the spring blade, and in its having a series of curved teeth, the edges of
whose curved surfaces in its rotation meet the edge of the spring blade.
PECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said George Collier in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
11th June 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GEORGE
COLLIER, of Halifax, in the County of York, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eleventh day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the twentieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said George Collier, Her special licence that I, the said George Collier, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as J, the said George
Collier, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said George Collier, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed

page_text: •
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Collier, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement
thereof, that is to say:
The improvements relate to combinations and adaptations of mechanical
parts for the manufacture of pile or piled fabrics, whereby two like textures
are produced at the same time, such being united in the weaving by the
threads forming the pile, and separated' when woven into two distinct fabrics
by the cutting across of such pile.
Heretofore in the production of such fabrics, where two shuttles (one to
each fabric) have been thrown across at the same instant to produce two like
pile fabrics at the same time, to the best of my belief, the pile warps have
always been divided into only two sets or divisions, each set or division being
alternately tied in with one and then with the other body warp. And one of
my improvements consists in dividing the pile threads into four sets or divisions,
and in operating each set of such pile threads independently, and so that they
may follow each other in succession, or in such other order that may be desired,
so that each of the several sets may in course form one or other part of each
shed, by which, when producing mohair plush by these means, I am enabled
to obtain a tie-in of pile to the fabric, like that heretofore employed when
weaving single fabric of moliair plush, but with a considerablė saving of
time. The order of tieing-in may, however, be varied when weaving other
pile fabrics..
Also, the improvements relate to means of operating the back or binding
warp threads when weaving double fabrics.
Also, the improvements relate to arrangements in connection with and means
of operating the reed, for effecting the beat up in such double-fabric looms.
Also the improvements relate to means for effecting the cutting asunder of
the combined fabrics into two distinct fabrics during the weaving.
But that the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner I carry the
same into effect, may be fully understood, I will proceed to describe the
-Drawings annexed.

page_text: views show some of the parts separately, but in all the Figures the same letters
are employed to indicate like parts wherever they occur.
. a, a, is the framing; 6, the main or driving shaft, which receives motion
from a steam engine or other suitable power, by a strap or band acting upon
the fixed drum or pulley 6' on that shaft 6. Upon the shaft 6 is also affixed
the pinion 63, which takes into and drives the toothed wheel c' on the cam or
tappet shaft c, to give motion to that shaft c.
The green lines d represent the pile warp threads, which are shewn divided
into four divisions, and e, e, are the back or binding warp threads. The pile
threads for the manufacture of mohair plush are, as shown, divided into four
sets or divisions, each of which is operated by a separate leaf of heddles
d', d, d, or d', and the back or binding warps e, e, are operated by leaves of
heddles e,. Each of these leaves of heddles d', d³, d', d, e, or e³, consists of
a quadrangular frame, as shewn by the separate views of one of each of them
at Figures 5 and 6, and they are supported with a capability of sliding in the
bearings or guides f.f, carried by the main framing; and each of the frames,
Figure 5, is formed with a pair of slots z, to receive the upper ends of a pair of
levers, by which the requisite motion is given to them to place the respective
warps they actuate simultaneously in positions required for the formation of
the respective sheds, and these levers are actuated by cams or tappets from the
cam or tappet shaft c; thus the leaf of heddles is actuated by the pair of
levers d³, which are actuated by the cams or tappets d; the leaf of heddles
d by the levers d, actuated by the cams or tappets d³; the leaf of heddles d'
by the levers do, actuated by the cams or tappets d; the leaf of heddles d'
by the levers d", actuated by the cams or tappets d; and each of these levers
turns upon an axis d's, whilst each carries a truck or bowl d, which trucks or
bowls rest on the cam surfaces actuating those levers. The leaf of heddles &¹
operating one division of the back or binding, warp is formed with openings e",
to receive the ends of a pair of levers e, by which that leaf e' is actuated, and
these levers are actuated by the cams or tappets e; the leaf of heddles e³ is
in like manner actuated by the pair of levers es, operated by the cams or
tappets ; the levers and e' turn upon the axis d¹³.
Each division of the pile warps when four divisions are employed is operated
so as to be capable of being tied in well with the binding warp and weft of
either fabric, and then it crosses over and is tied in in like manner with the
back or binding warp and weft of the other fabric. Thus, supposing the four
vertical lines, Figure 7, to indicate four divisions, or two open sheds of the pile
warps, as successively made when weaving mohair or such like plush, and that
A indicates one series of open sheds (for the passage of one shuttle), and B the

page_text: other series of open sheds for the simultaneous passage of the other shuttle,
then each set or division of pile warp will simultaneously assume the position
and make the crossings indicated by the four different colors of the diagram,
and so on. The circles C indicate shoots of weft, and it is this capability of
dividing the pile warps into four sets or divisions, each acting independently
of the other, and capable of operating alone with the warp and weft of and so
as to be tied in with one body of fabric, and then crossing to the body of the
other fabric to form pile, and be tied in alone with the warp and weft of
that other body, or so that each of the several sets of pile warp may in course
form one or other part of each shed when producing two fabrics at the same
time by the simultaneous use or operation of two shuttles, which constitutes one
peculiarity of these combined improvements. It will be seen that whilst thero
are necessarily four sets or divisions of back or binding warps, two for each
fabric, there are but two leaves of heddles for operating them. In order to
this, each leaf of heddles carries two complete sets of eyes, one to carry a
division of each of the two back or body warps, and it is the adaptation of parts
by which one heddle serves for one set or division of back or binding warp of
each fabric, and the other heddle for the other of each shed or fabric, which
constitutes another peculiarity of these combined improvements. Each pile
warp is divided into two equal parts drawn from one beam g, 'according to a
Patent granted to me (bearing date the 2nd day of December 1853), and
weight is put upon each of the pile warps used by bars or rods h, h, supported
from arms h³, h, turning upon the axes g' of the pile warp beams. The
weight given by such bars or rods.h is aided by springs or weights as required.
But I do not confine myself to the use of only two beams, or divisions of the
pile warps, as they may be otherwise supplied. The back or body warps are
supplied from two beams a, i, in passing from each of which the respective
warps pass under a bar j, carried by weighted lever arms, and under or
partly around, the rocking bars formed by the axes j³ of those levers j. But
in place of the back or body warps passing partly around the bars or rods
,, as described, they may pass partly around a barj supported by levers ¹
from the axes of the beams i, i, as shown by the separate view of these parts
at Figure 8, and in this case each lever arm j¹ is formed with parts capable
of being operated upon by a wedge piece k, or other suitably formed piece, at
the time of the beat up by the batten, to give extra tension upon such
back or body warps. In place of both divisions of back or body warps for
each shed being operated by one bar or rod j, there may be a bar or rodj to
each division of warp for each shed.
The axes of the rocking bars are capable of being regulated in position

page_text: by the shifting of their bearings on the framing, as shown, to govern the
angular position and consequent tension upon the back or body warps, and
keep the two fabrics separated at the point of weaving a distance correspond-
ing with the length of pile required. And this regulation of the distance
of the backs of the two fabrics is aided by the external controlling bars 1, 1,
snspended from the arms ,, which turn upon the axes P, P. P, P, are
catches by which to hold the two bars at the desired distance apart, the
eyes in the healds being spaced to correspond. I apply suitable letting off
motions to the axes of the several warp beams, but as such are now well
understood, I have not thought it necessary to shew them in the Drawings, or
otherwise to refer to them. m is the reed, which moves vertically for the beat
up and the opening of the sheds, and the movement upwards is effected by
means of springs m³ and weights m, by which an elastic beat is obtained,
whilst the descending motion, or that from the point of beat up for the
opening of sheds and throwing across of weft, is effected by the cam m³. upon
the shaft 6 acting upon the bowl m' of the lever m³ affixed to the axis m³,
which turns in bearings carried by the framing, and has affixed to it the lever
arms m², which by pin joints m³ are attached to the links m³, the upper ends of
which by pin joints m² are connected to the batten or reed .m. The reed
therefore has direct motion given to it, so as to beat square against the two
fabrics being produced or obtained by the elastic force of the springs and
weights acting, when admitted so to do, by the cam m³ in the revolution of
the axis b. Sometimes 1 employ combs n, as shewn by the separate view,
Figure 9, carried by a bar n', which in the motion of the reed to and from the
beat up is capable of sliding along the guides formed in the reed, and in
that motion it is governed by the grooves n³ affixed to the loom frame. These
combs n, when used, act at the time of the beat up by sliding along the reed,
thereby to maintain the spacing of and to give additional support to the dents
or combs of the reed intermediate of their length. Or, in cases where this
extra support to the reed may be found necessary in place of the additional
sliding comb, as stated, the reed, whilst moving to beat up, may be caused to
move sideways, so that the beat may be effected by one or other ends of the
dents in place of the centre of the length of them. This I effect by a
compound parallel and inclined motion to the reed to and from the beat up.
It will be understood that the shuttle boxes r, r, are separate from the reed
and stationary, an arrangement which I prefer as facilitating the movements
of the reed to and from the beat up. The batten is guided in its vertical
motion by having necks m" to slide upon the fixed rods m¹³, each of which is
held by being supported at one end on the ends of the shuttle boxes, and

page_text: at the other end by the parts of the framing, as shown; and it is this system of
operating the reed or batten which constitutes another peculiarity of these
combined improvements. m¹³ are rings or tubes of prepared india-rubber,
which are enclosed within the cylinders m, and are for the purpose of giving
an elastic check to the batten at the beat up. These rings or cylinders of
india-rubber at such times being struck by the upper surfaces of the necks m
These parts are shewn separately at Figures 10, 11, 12, 10* and 11*. In
case either of the shuttles stops in the shed, or does not properly box, the
motions of the loom are stopped in the following manner :-t, t, are lever arms
affixed to the axes, whose lower ends are formed to catch
upon the pro-
jections,, formed on and projecting from the batten m by being sprung
thereon by the springs t', and when either or both of them are in that position,
at the rising of the reed the parts t, &, will by acting upon the ends of the
levers t, t, raise the axis or axes 7, to which they are attached, so as to raise
one end of the lever t, which turns upon the axis to, and at its other end is
connected to the rod t", which is in manner such as is well understood connected
to the throwing-off apparatus to throw the driving strap off the fast on to the
loose pulley, and thereby stop the motions of the loom. But if both the
shuttles properly box, the ends of the swells will act upon the projections t
of the levers t to press them inwards, so that they will clear the projections &³, and
the motions of the loom proceed. 0, 0, 0, 0, are the picker sticks, which turn
upon centres of motion o¹, whilst at their lower ends they are by straps and
springs os borne with their upper ends outwards, as is well understood, and they
are operated for the picking in the following manner :-o are wipers affixed on
the main shaft b, in position to be capable each of acting upon an arm o*, stand-
ing out frm an axis o': These axes o³ are supported by and with capability of
motion in the bearings a' from the main. framing, as shown, and each has two
arms o, o, connected by straps or bands o', in the usual way to the two picker
sticks at each end of the loom, so as to cause them to act upon both picker
sticks at either end of the loom simultaneously. But as both wipers o' are
capable of acting at each revolution of the shaft 6, whilst they will be required
to do so only alternately, I apply cams os on the shaft c, to act upon levers oº,
which turn upon axes 0%, and at their upper ends are formed into forks to
embrace necks formed on the axes o, by which those axes may be slided in
their bearings a', so as to cause one of the wipers o³ to miss, and the other to
act upon its arm o alternately at each revolution of the axis 6. One of the
axes o, with parts acting therewith, is shown separately by Figures 18
and 14.
.
The combined fabric as produced is conducted up between the bars a', a',

page_text: whence it meets with the cutter wheel p, which is peculiarly formed to effect
the separation of the two fabrics during the weaving. This cutter wheel, with
the parts immediately in connection, therewith, is shewn separately and to a
larger scale by Figures 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19. The peculiarity of the cutter
wheel consists in its being formed somewhat hollow or concave on that surface
next the spring blade p', and in its having a series of curved teeth, the
edges (2) of whose curved surfaces in its rotation meet the edge of the spring
blade p', thereby operating as a succession of pairs of scissors by the point of
the blade p¹ (when moving in the direction of the arrow), taking under the
rows of pile threads and holding them to be cut by the cutting edges of the
cutter p, acting with the edge of the spring blade p'. The cutter wheel p
and spring blade p¹ are supported in a frame p³, to which a traversing motion
is given across and between the two fabrics, while a quick rotary motion is at
the same time given to the cutter wheel p. This is accomplished in the
following manner-Upon the axis c is affixed the cam wheel p³, which by
acting upon the truck or bowl p' of the lever p³ gives motion to that lever, to
which is attached one end of a cord or band p', the other end of which passes
up and around the pulley wheel p³, to which the cord p' is attached; the
lever p has also connected to. it one end of the cord p', which passes down
under the pulley wheel p up to the wheel p³, to which it is attached.
:
The wheel p is affixed to the axis p", which is supported so as to revolve
freely in the standards a, a, and has affixed upon it the pulley wheel p¹³, to
which is connected one end of a cord p¹³, the other end of which is attached
to the stud p", affixed to the cutter frame to pull the cutter frame in one
direction, whilst the motion in the opposite direction is obtained by a cord p¹³,
one end of which is attached to a pin p, attached to the frame p³, from which
it passes partly around the pulley wheel p" to the pulley wheel p". The
cutter frame p³ is supported with a capability of sliding on the fixed bar p¹8,
and there is a stationary toothed rack p", the teeth of which take into the
teeth of a pinion p", which, with a toothed wheel p" attached thereto, are
capable of rotating upon an axis p, carried by the cutter carriage p³, so that
as the cutter carriage is caused to move along the bar p, in the manner
described, rotary motion will be given to the wheels p" and p, and the
wheel p takes into the teeth of a wheel p, affixed upon the axis of the cutter
wheel P, so as to give the required quick rotary motion to that cutter.
And it is the employment of cutting apparatus, such as described for the
cutting up of the pile of double fabrics to separate them into two fabrics, that
constitutes another peculiarity of the improvements.
The two fabrics, as separated by the knife p, are drawn forward by the

page_text: rollers. q, q, aided by the small rollers s, s. The rollers q, q, are covered with
card or other points to facilitate the holding on to the backs of the fabrics
produced, whilst they have simultaneous rotary motion given to them in the
following manner-Upon the cam or tappet shaft c is affixed the cam g³,
which acts by the truck q' upon the lever g, which turns upon the centre of
motion g', whilst by the rod q' it is connected to the lever g, which turns upon
a centre of motion 97, and, carries the driver g8, which takes into and in its
rising gives motion to the ratchet wheel 9, which is affixed to the axis q',
upon which is also affixed the worm wheel q", which takes into the teeth of
and gives a slow motion to the screw wheel q", affixed upon the axis of one
of the rollers q, upon which is affixed the toothed, wheel g" which takes into
the teeth of and gives motion to a like wheel q" on the axis of the other
roller q.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and the best means
I am acquainted with. for carrying the same into effect, I would have it
understood that I do not confine myself to the precise details shown and
described, so long, as the peculiar character of, the improvements be retained;
but what I do claim is the combination and adaptation of means, substantially
as herein explained, for the production of pile fabrics, whereby two like
textures are produced at the same time..
In witness whereof, I, the said George. Collier, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Tenth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
Witness,
WILLIAM BROOKES, Patent Agent,
78, Chancery Lane.
GEORGE COLLIER. (L.S.)