Year: 1886

page_text: I REGINALD HADDAN of the firm of Herbert & Co Patent Agents of 67' Strand
in the County of Middlesex Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention, a communication to me from abroad by Ratcliff Hicks of New York
in the United States of America, Manufacturer and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:—
My invention relates to improvements in. Women's wearing apparel, and it
consists in a bustle made up of a series of horizontal frames vertical flexible
connections and a folding brace.
In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the bustle Fig. 2
is a vertical section Fig. 3 is a vertical section showing the bustle collapsed or
folded Fig. 4 shows the frame made from a single piece of wire Fig. 5 is a view
of a modification; and Figs. 6. 7 and 8 are views of another modification..
The bustle can be secured to the body of the wearer outside of the skirt waist
and assist in holding the latter in position and consists of a series of wire frames A'
arranged each substantially horizontal and one below and parallel to the other,
each frame consisting preferably of a piece of wire bent to form two curved sides
of different curvatures united in the form of a crescent and the whole flexibly
united so that all the frames may be brought compactly together or separated to
the extent permitted by the connections; and a brace B is connected at the lower
end to the inner portion a¹ of one of the frames and at the upper end to the outer
portion 6 of one of the upper frames, so as to fall out to an inclined position, and
hold the upper frame as well as those below it in a horizontal position as shown in
Figure 2, but swinging inwardly when pressure is applied against the frames to
permit them to be folded flat as shown in Figure 3.
Each frame A¹ may be separate from the other, and the different frames may be
flexibly connected by tapes c' c² which will permit the frames to be folded close
together and will also maintain their relation when in a horizontal position and
supported by the brace B' as shown in figure 2.

page_text: I prefer however to form all the frames from one continuous piece of wire bent
as shown in figure 4, and to connect them by a flexible support c¹ which corresponds
to the external form of the bustle when extended, and in that position stitched or
sewed at different points ¹ to different parts of the frame.
This cover serves the three fold purpose of connecting the frames, of permitting
a ready attachment of the waistband D¹ and protecting the clothing of the wearer
from contact with the metal.
It will be seen that although the brace B¹ will swing readily towards the body
of the wearer when pressure is brought against the bustle to flatten same, it will
only swing outward to the extent permitted by the flexible connections, and in
this position will constitute a firm brace that will maintain the shape of the article
so long as no lateral pressure is brought against it.
Instead of constructing the bustle as above described it may be constructed
as shown in figures 6, 7 and 8. In these figures the frame of the bustle consists of
two side blades or strips A² and a series of curved strips or wires B² connected at
the ends to the blades B or to the flaps C. When the strips are secured to the
flaps the ends of the strips are looped and passed through eyelets 62 in the
flap C² which has a shir at one edge to receive the blade and a series of eyelets c³
to receive the lacing d².
The blades are connected by a flexible band or belt D2 to which the flaps are
stitched.
To support the curved bars Beach in a horizontal position so that it will project
outward and support the dress of the wearer-I connect all of the curved strips or
bows to a tape E' fastened at its upper end to the belt. The tape however yields
readily to permit all the bows to turn upwards when pressure is brought against
the dress.
To cause the bows to readily turn when pressure is exerted against the bows,
I connect the lower bow with one of the upper bows by the rod or strip F³, the
lifting of the upper bow attached to said rod owing to the connection with the
tape E also turning up all the bows.
To cause the bustle to expand as soon as the pressure is relieved I combine
therewith one or more springs G² so arranged as to throw out the bows to their
normal position.
In order to prevent the frame from yielding under heavy garments I combine
with the frame a supplimental bow K³ which is connected at its ends at a point
below the ends of the central bow and extends upwards and is connected to the
tape E above the central bow.
The article can be used with or without the covering I which can be stitched to
the band D, and with or without the inside flaps f stitched at the edges to the
flaps O'.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is;
1. The combination in a bustle of a series of complete frames A forming the
outside and inside bearing surface of the bustle arranged horizontally one above
the other and connected by vertical flexible connections and a brace B extending
from the rear of one frame upward to the front of the upper frames substantially
as set forth.
3. The combination in a bustle of a series of frames formed from a single wire
bent to form connected portions a¹ b¹ vertical supports flexibly connecting the
different parts of the wire and a brace extending from one of the portions a¹ upward
to one of the upper portions b¹ substantially as set forth.
4. The combination of side bars or blades, transverse bows, support B a flexible
strip connected to said support and to the bows and an arched brace arranged at an
angle to resist downward pressure substantially as set forth.

page_text: 5. The combination in a bustle of a flexible bow B³, side strips A² flexible
band D flexible tape E2 flaps C² and lacing d³ substantially as set forth.
6. The combination with the transverse bows, of the side blades supporting the
bows, but disconnected therefrom.
7. The combination of the side bars or blades, bows, capable of being turned
upwards, bracing bow K² and connecting rod F.
8. The combination with the side bars and cross bow of a tape limiting the
downward movement of the bows, and one or more springs arranged to exert a
downward pressure upon the bows.
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