IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRILLS OR RUFFLES, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Willcox, of Ludgate Hill, in the City of
London, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRILLS OR RUFFLES, AND IN THE MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN."-A communication from abroad by
Chauncey Orrin Crosbey, of New Haven, Connecticut, United States of
America.
Scaled the 15th August 1862, and dated the 19th February 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Willcox at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 19th
February 1862.
I, JAMES WILLCOX, of Ludgate Hill, in the City of London, Sewing Machine
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "Iм-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRILLS OR RUFFLES, AND IN THE MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN," a communication to me from abroad by
Chauncey Orrin Crosbey, of New Haven, Connecticut, United States of
America, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a peculiar manufacture of frills or ruffles, and to a
peculiar combination of mechanism to be applied to a sewing machine for
producing the same. The essential peculiarity of these frills or ruffles is that
the folds or plaits are crimped in one direction and transversely to the cloth in
a perfectly even and regular manner, and secured by stitches in lieu of the

page_text: fabric being puckered or gathered in the ordinary manner. The folds or
plaits may be either secured by means of a single row of stitches, or by two or
more parallel rows of stitches'; that portion of the frill comprised between any
two rows of stitches consisting of a series of parallel and regular folds or plaits,
which may in some cases be used as an ornamental band to the frilling or full
portion which is comprised between the hem or selvage of the fabric and the
outer row of stitches. These ornamental frills may be made either double or
single, that is, with one or both edges left full. Another peculiarity of this
improved frill is that the hem or hems or selvages on one or both edges of the
fabric are crimped simultaneously with the intermediate portion. Fabrics
may be crimped so as to produce the above described frills either singly,
that is, with the folds or plaits secured on to the same piece of fabric from
which they are formed, or two fabrics may be used, one of which forms a
plain band, on to which the other fabric is crimped and secured by stitches
simultaneously.
The peculiar combination of machinery or apparatus which I propose to
adapt to an ordinary sewing machine for the purpose of producing the herein-
before described frills, consists of a reciprocating knife, having straight or
serrated edge, and provided with suitable notches on its edge for the passage
of the needle or needles. Provision should be also made on the edge of this
knife by cutting away portions thereof to allow for the increased thickness of
the fabric at the hems or selvages. This knife rests upon the fabric to be
crimped, which fabric rests upon a hardened and perfectly level steel plate let.
into the bed plate or table of the machine. This steel plate is provided with
needle holes and apertures for the feeder to work through, such feeder being
by preference the four-motion feed slightly modified in shape, so as to enable
it to act upon the entire width of the fabric at different points simultaneously
through the apertures above referred to. The forward edge of the presser
foot is bevelled underneath to an angle of about 45°, and is notched at that
part to allow the needle or needles to work through. In order to allow of the
free passage of the hems or selvages, which are of course thicker than the rest
of the fabric, the two outer edges or sides of the presser foot are made elastic
so as to yield independently of the main or central portion of the foot. A
tooth or claw is formed on the under side of each of these yielding portions to
retain the hem or selvage after it has been pushed under them by the action
of the reciprocating knife. The knife is held down upon the fabric by a
yielding pressure, such pressure being removed during the backward stroke of
the knife. The forward stroke causes the fabric to be raised in the form of a
fold, which fold is turned down over the edge of the knife by being pressed

page_text: under the bevelled edge of the presser foot. The needle or needles now
descend and secure the fold so made, for which purpose a hook, looper, shuttle,
or other suitable contrivance may be used in combination with the needle or
needles, so as to perfect the stitch. The feed motion now comes into opera-
tion so as to move the entire fabric along in readiness for the next stitch, the
crimping knife moving simultaneously in the same direction. The feed and
knife then return to their original positions, and a fresh fold or plait is formed
in the same manner and so on. Suitable cams and adjustable levers are
employed for imparting the reciprocating motion to the knife, and also for
imparting the necessary pressure thereon. When two fabrics are used the one
intended to form the plain band is passed over the knife and under the
presser foot.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Willcox in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 19th
August 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
WILLCOX, of Ludgate Hill, in the City of London, Sewing Machine Manu-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-fifth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said James Willcox, Her special license that I, the said James Willcox, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James
Willcox, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ircland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF FRILLS OR RUFFLES, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREIN," a communication from abroad by Chauncey Orrin Crosbey,
of New Haven, Connecticut, United States of America, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said James Willcox, my executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, or under the
hand and seal of one of them, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per.

page_text: formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
"
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Willcox, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
The said Invention relates to a peculiar manufacture of frills, ruffles, or
trimmings, and to a peculiar combination of mechanism to be applied to a
sewing machine for producing the same. The essential peculiarity of these.
frills, rulles, or trimmings is, that the folds or plaits are crimped in one
direction and transversely to the cloth in a perfectly even and regular manner,
and secured by stitches in lieu of the fabric being puckered or gathered in the
ordinary manner. The folds or plaits may be either secured by means of a
single row of stitches, or by two or more parallel rows of stitches, that portion
of the frill comprised between any two rows of stitches consisting of a series of
parallel and regular folds or plaits, which may in some cases be used as an
ornamental band to the frilling or frill portion which is compressed between
the hem or selvage of the fabric and the outer row of stitches. These orna-
mental frills may be made either double or single, that is, with one or both
edges left full. Another peculiarity of this improved frill is that the hem or
hems or selvages on one or both edges of the fabric are crimped simultaneously
with the intermediate portion. Fabrics may be crimped so as to produce the
above described frills either singly, that is, with the folds or plaits sccured on
to the same piece of fabric from which they were formed, or two fabrics may
be used, one of which forms a plain band on to which the other fabric is
crimped and secured by stitches simultaneously.
The peculiar combination of machinery or apparatus which I propose to
adapt to an ordinary sewing machine for the purpose of producing the herein-
before described frills consists of a reciprocating knife, having a straight or
serrated edge, and provided with suitable notches on its edge for the passage
of the needle or needles. Provision should be also made on the edge of this
knife by cutting away portions thereof to allow for the increased thickness of
the fabric at the hems or selvages. This knife rests upon the fabric to be
crimped, which fabric rests upon a hardened and perfectly level steel plate let
into the bed plate or table of the machine. This steel plate is provided with
needle holes and apertures for the feeder to work through, such feeder being
by preference the four-motion feed slightly modified in shape, so as to enable

page_text: it to act upon the entire width of the fabric at different points simultaneously
through the apertures above referred to. The forward edge of the presser
foot is bevilled underneath to an angle of about 45°, and is notched at that
part to allow the needle or needles to work through. In order to allow of the
free passage of the hems or selvages, which are of course thicker than the rest
of the fabric, the two outer edges or sides of the presser foot are made elastic.
so as to yield independently of the main or central portion of the foot. A
tooth or claw is formed on the under side of these yielding portions to
retain the hem or selvage after it has been pushed under them by the action.
of the reciprocating knife. The knife is held down upon the fabric by a
yielding pressure, such pressure being removed during the backward stroke of.
the knife. The forward stroke causes the fabric to be raised in the form of a
fold, which fold is turned down over the edge of the knife by being pressed
under the bevelled edge of the presser foot. The needle or needles now
descend and secure the fold so made, for which purpose a hook, looper, shuttle,.
or other suitable contrivance may be used in combination with the needle or
necilles so as to perfect the stitch. The feed motion now comes into opera-
tion so as to move the entire fabric along in readiness for the next stitch, the
crimping knife moving simultaneously in the same direction. The feed and.
knife then return to their original positions, and a fresh fold or plait is formed
in the same manner, and so on. Suitable cams and adjustable levers are.
employed for imparting the reciprocating motion to the knife, and also for
imparting the necessary pressure thereon. When the fabrics are used the one.
intended to form the plain band is passed over the knife and under the
presser foot.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the sanic, and for that purpose I shall
refer to the several Figures on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed, the
same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts throughout all the
Figures.
Figure 1 of the Drawings represents a full-sized vertical sectional view of
the crimping mechanism; Figure 2 is a corresponding plan of the same with
the presser foot removed; Figures 3 and 4 are plans of the upper and under
sides respectively of the peculiar presser foot detached; Figure 5 is a side.
elevation of the entire apparatus as adapted to a Willcox and Gibbs' sewing
machine (full size); Figure 6 is a corresponding plan of the same, with the.
upper fixed arms or brackets removed; Figure 7 is a transverse vertical section
of the machine, looking at the driving end thereof; and Figure & represents
the kind of work produced by this machine.

page_text: The essential features of this Invention are shewn in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4,
where A represents a reciprocating knife, which rests upon the fabric (shewn
by a red line) to be crimped, being pressed down thereon by a yielding spring
presser finger B when moving forward towards the needles C, and released
from pressure when making its return or back stroke, so as not to draw the
fabric back with it. The edge of the blade may be slightly serrated, and have
notches made in it corresponding to the positions of the needle or needles, so
as to allow it to advance slightly beyond the needle holes in the cloth plate D.
E, E, are four serrated feeding bars, having the ordinary and well-known four-
motion action imparted to them simultaneously by a crank pin, or cam or cams,
as is well understood by persons conversant with sewing machines. These
feeding surfaces work through corresponding slits in the cloth plate, and
impart the feed or traverse to the material after cach plait or fold has been
completed and fastened by the sewing instruments, the fabric being held down
thereon by the peculiar yielding presser foot F (Figures 3 and 4). This foot
should be provided with a spring blade f, of a length sufficient to extend across
the entire width of fabric to be operated upon, its two ends which project
beyond the side of the foot itself are made to spring or yield slightly in an
upward direction, so as to allow for the increased thickness of the hem or
selvage previously formed on the edges of the strip of fabric; the front edge of
the presser foot and blade is bevelled on the under side, and the projecting
ends of the blade are notched or toothed for the purpose of retaining the newly
formed plait. A number of indents or serrations may also be made, if desired,
on the under side of the presser foot, so as to allow the plaits to travel freely
under them during the feeding of the fabric, but effectually prevent the fabric
from moving back in the opposite direction on the return of the knife. When
in operation the fabric, which is held down upon the cloth plate by the presser
foot so as to nip it between the two surfaces, is plaited by the forward motion
of the reciprocating knife A, which takes up a certain portion or length of the
fabric according to the length of its stroke, and forms a plait, as shewn
in Figure 1, which it pushes under the bevelled edge of the presser. This
motion taking place whilst the needle or needles are in the cloth.
So soon as
they have risen clear above the fabric, however, the feed surfaces which have
already been clevated so as to bear against the under surface of the fabric,
move forward, carrying the fabric with them, the knife A following in the same
direction. The needle or needles again penetrate the fabric, and the knife
then returns in readiness to form the next plait, the pressure upon it having
been removed before such back stroke. When one strip of fabric is required
to be sewn in a plaited or crimped form on to a plain band or fabric, the strip

page_text: forming such band, and which is not intended to be plaited or crimped, is laid
upon the other strip, but passes over in place of under the reciprocating knife,
and then under the presser foot in company with the lower strip, which latter
is crimped or plaited by the action of the knife as before described, whilst the
upper strip, not being acted on, remains uncrimped or plaited, and is sewn-in
a plain state on to the crimped fabric.
In Figures 5, 6, and 7, the apparatus above described is shewn as adapted
to a Willcox and Gibbs' chain-stitch machine, provided with two parallel
needles and two rotating hooks, so as to form two parallel and distinct lines of
stitches along the trimming. The reciprocating knife A is connected by a pair
of links a, a, fast to one end of a rocking spindle b, working in the small
brackets or supports c, c.
To the other end of this spindle are keyed two
slotted lever arms d, d, to the free ends of which are connected the slotted
links e, e', respectively. These links are forked at their lower ends, and
the forks pass on cach side of the main or cam shaft f¹ of the machine, which
thus serves as a guide for the links in their vertical movements. A stud or
antifriction bowl g, g', is fitted into the side of each link, and these studs or
bowls are acted upon by the cams h, h', respectively, the one arm giving the
first forward motion to the knife by raising the slotted lever d, and the other
coming into action a little later for the purpose of giving the second forward
movement to the knife when the feed of the cloth is taking place. If pre-
ferred one cam can be made to perform both movements. The studs or bowls
are kept in constant contact with the surfaces of the cams by the action of the
helical springs i, i, connected to the outer ends of the two slotted levers respec-
tively. The presser finger B, which bears upon the knife A, is carried on the
end of a second rocking spindle k, parallel to the first, and having a slotted
arm keyed thereon, which is actuated by a cam m on the cam shaft above
referred to, in a similar manner to the slotted arms d, d', for working the
reciprocating knife. The feed motion is obtained in the same manner as in the
Willcox and Gibbs' machine, and the second rotatory hook is carried by a
short spindle n, which receives a corresponding rotatory motion to the main or
cam shaft, which carries the other hook by means of a carrier shaft o and train
of equalized gearing p,p. As the supply of the threads to the two needles and
the tension of those threads may be effected in any of the methods common to
sewing machines generally any further reference is unnecessary here.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and

page_text: original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-
before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
1st. The general construction, arrangement, and combination of machinery,
apparatus, or means for producing crimped or plaited frills or trimmings in a
sewing machine, as herein-before described.
Second. The application and use of a reciprocating knife for crimping fabrics
in a sewing machine, substantially as hercin-before described.
Third. The peculiar manufacture of crimped or plaited frills or trimmings, as
herein-before described and illustrated by Figure 8 of the Drawings.
In witness whereof, 1, the said James Willcox, have hereunto set my
hand and scal, the Sixteenth day of August, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty-two.
JAS. WILLCOX. (L.S.)