Improvements in Means for Drafting Dress Patterns.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Apr., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 2nd Jan., 1891-Accepted, 28th Mar., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Means for Drafting Dress Patterns.
Mrs. PHEBE HUTCHINSON, Lodge Gate, Denholme, near Bradford, Yorkshire
Wife of Schoolmaster, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for Drafting
Dress Patterns to be follows:-
In three parts.-Sheet 1. A to be cut out. B neck sizes. C shoulder sizes.
D chest sizes. E armhole sizes. Ffront inch measure. G front waist gore
I centre line of side waist gore. J side piece.
measure. H waist size measure.
K front waist. I lappet lines. M sizes to regulate width of lappet.
From a to s is
From a.to b, and from c to d in Figure 2, is the half neck size of 8 inches. From e
to f, and from g to d in Fig. 2 is the half neck size of 18 inches. From f to his the
length of shoulder measure. From to i is the height of shoulder measure. From
tok is the depth of chest measure. From k to is the inch measure, and parts of
inch measure, for the width of chest measurement. From m to n is the depth of
gore measure. From n to o is the inch measure for the width of waist measure-
ment. From n top is the parts of inches for the width of gore sizes. From p to q
is the side piece gore measure.
From to is the side piece gore measure.
From q to is the side piece sizes. From to o is the side piece sizes.
From o
to is the side piece line, and lappet line, with the inch measure.
the centre line of side waist gore. From o to t is the lappet lines; marked with
the inch measure. From to, is the curved line of the bottom part of the figure,
marked with the inch measure. From v to n is the length of front lappet. From
w to a is the lappet line perforations. y is the movable lappet width regulator.
is the stationary lappet width regulator. From 6 to p is the armhole curve.
Fig. 2. A to be cut out. B neck sizes. C shoulder sizes. D chest sizes. E back
inch measure. F waist sizes. G lappet sizes. H armhole sizes. From a to b
is the armhole-curve. From e to is the height of shoulder measure. From b to g
is the inch measure, and parts of inch measure for the width of chest measurement.
From to h is the depth of chest measure. From e to i is the length of waist
measure. From i to j is the inch measure, and parts of inch measure for the width
of waist measurement. From j to is the side waist measure. From tok is the
length of lappet line. From to is the length of lappet line. From m to n is the
width of lappet sizes.
side piece perforations.
o and
Fig. 3. A to be cut out.
of elbow sizes. E wrist sizes.
I
B width of sleeve sizes. C inch measure. D width
F collar sizes. From a to b, and from 6 to c are the
sizes for width of top part of sleeve. From 6 to d is the height of top part of sleeve
measure. From e to is the length of sleeve measure. From toy is the width of
elbow measure.
From h to is the wrist measure. From to fis the length of
sleeve measure. From i to j is the collar, and collar sizes. From 7 to k is the under
arm line. From 1 to m is the under arm line. From n to c are sizes for the width
of under arm. All circles are for perforations.
In Fig. 1 T is the curve to form the neck line. The sizes at E are for a large
and a small armhole. In Fig. 2 T is the curve to form the neck line. is a short'
lappet perforation. Fig. 1 is the front in half. Fig. 2 is the back in half. Fig. 3
is the sleeve. The three figures combined is a model of dress pattern in framework,
or skeleton form, the inner and outer lines of which are to be used for configuration
in drafting dress pattern on paper or linen.
The scales placed across each part of the 3 figures are for taking the measure- .
ments of a dress pattern on paper or linen.
The measurement is found at the perforation marked with the figures representing

page_text: the number of inches required, and the corresponding figures are repeated in the
measurements across the corresponding parts of Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
The chest measure, or scale from k to across Fig. 1 (front) is arranged in parts
of inches, the large perforations marked with figures indicate sizes, the smaller
perforations half sizes. The large perforations marked with the figures from 1 to 17
is the inch measure and the side-piece sizes. The corresponding measure from to b
in Fig. 2 (back) is arranged in parts of inches, the large perforations indicate sizes,
the smaller perforations half sizes, the small marks with the figures from 1 to 9 is
the inch measure.
The waist measure from n to o in Fig. 1 has an inch measure in large perforations,
with marks betwixt for and inches, also a measure, or scale, in parts of inches,-
the large perforations are the sizes, the smaller perforations are the half sizes.
The corresponding measure or scale from i to j across Fig. 2 is arranged in parts
of inches, indicating sizes, the perforations on the waist line being used as an inch
measure.
The waist gore scale of sizes from n to p in Fig. 1 is in parts of inches, repeated at
each side of a centre.
The scales for neck, and depth of chest are in parts of inches, and are marked
with the alphabet, from letter A to letter K,-those letters indicating the number of
sizes required from 8 to 18.
The manner of using these measurements and sizes for drafting dress patterns, is to
lay the figure on paper or linen and mark the size required at neck, shoulder
height, length of body, depth of chest, width of chest, width of waist, and width of
lappet.
The figures can be raised or lowered when required.
The side-pieces in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 can be drafted together on the same piece of
material, or on material separately. In Fig. 1 the side-piece width required is found
in the side-piece width sizes placed betwixt q and 1, and the side-piece width perfora-
tions placed on the waist measure betwixt and o.
?'
The length of side-piece is taken from q to r, and from 1 to 0.
from o to t, and from 7 to a.
The lappet length
In Fig. 2 the width of side-piece is found in the waist sizes betwixt the perfora-
tions at p and, and the width of side-piece is found in the width of chest sizes
betwixt and b.
2.
The length of side-piece is taken from 6 to j, and from o to p. The
length of lappet from j to k, and from p to n.
In Fig. 1 the scale of gore sizes from n to p is placed on the waist line, and the
number of inches left over from the waist measure is taken out for width of gores,
by marking at the corresponding figure in the gore size scale. The perforations
at y andare in parts of inches and are used to regulate the width of the
lappet.
In Fig. 2 the scale for width of lappet measure is in parts of inches, and is, when
drafting, placed across the width of lappet for the purpose of marking through the
perforation bearing the figure indicating the size required.
In Fig. 3 (sleeve) the scales for sizes are in parts of inches marked with the
figures and alphabet corresponding to those used in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
At the top part of the sleeve b and d are the sizes and inch measure for the height
of sleeve. The scales of sizes for the width of sleeve from a to c are graduated.
The scale from to g is in parts of inches. The scale from i to k is in parts of inches.
The scale for collar sizes is in parts of inches. The manner of using the scales
when drafting is to lay the figure on material, and mark through the perforation or
opposite the letter denoting the size required for length, width of top, width of elbow,
width of wrist. The figure can be raised or lowered as required. The upper and
under parts of sleeve can be drafted together or separately as desired. The outside
and inside lines of the figures are for configuration when drafting the three parts of
a dress pattern.
The manner of using the measurements and scales of sizes, and the configuration

page_text: of the figures in Specification 7352% are the same as in No. 697789 for which Letters
Patent have been granted.
The present application for Patent being for the enlargement of the 3 figures by
lengthening the inch measure at certain parts of each figure, and for the alteration
at y and z in Fig. 1.
Dated this 31st day of March 1890.
PHOEBE HUTCHINSON.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Means for Drafting Dress Patterns.
PHEBE HUTCHINSON, Lodge Gate, Denholme, near Bradford, Yorkshire, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
By referring to my Provisional Specification and drawings it will be seen that my
invention has been fully described, and that my present application for a Patent is
for the enlargement, and improvement of No. 697789-for which Letters Patent have
been granted.
My invention consists of a new and novel way of marking the measurements of
the human body-previously taken by a tape inch measure, on paper or linen, prior
to cutting out the various parts of a dress body.
In carrying out my invention I employ a new form of instruments consisting of
3 figures, being the model of a dress pattern in three parts.
Fig. 1, is half of the front. Fig. 2, is half of the back. Fig. 3, is the sleeve.
Each part having the graduated sizes in perforations, and marked by corre-
sponding figures and letters across the chest, waist, neck and sleeve, for the
purpose of taking the exact measurements, and for the drafting of each separate
part of a dress pattern from its model.
Fig. 1, represents the outline of the front of the body, made in skeleton form,
preferably made of wood, and also of other unbreakable substance.
In using the instument the parts from to f, and from a to e are used to measure
the neck of dress body, the sizes being marked by the alphabet, the smallest size
being 8 inches to mark which the letter A is used. When drafting the neck size !
take the line from a to b, and continue around the back from c to d in Fig. 2; the
largest size 18 inches being marked betwixt e and f in Fig. 1, and continued from y
to d in Fig. 2.
To measure the length of the waist I use the front of the intrument from a to n,
and for the lappet from n to r, also down the front.
In measuring the length of shoulder the inclined part from f to h is used, and
for the depth of shoulder from / to i. In taking the depth of chest I use from eto k,
the sizes of which are marked with the alphabet, and for the width of chest, across
the instrument from k to l.
For taking the length of the side-piece I employ the part of the instrument marked
from 9 tor and from r to s, also from 1 to o, and for obtaining the width of the
side-piece, I take the sizes from 7 to 1, and from r to o. For taking the lappet
length I measure from o to t, and from r and w to r. For taking the widt
of waist the part marked from n to o is employed.
The perforations from n to p represent the waist gore sizes, or parts in inches
to be taken out of that left over from the waist size. The parts marked y and z
are employed to regulate the width of the lappet. The perforations shewn at m
are used to measure the depth of waist gore.
From H to P is used to shape the armhole.
Fig. 2, represents the outline of the back of dress body, made in skeleton
form, preferably made of wood, or other unbreakable substance.

page_text: ;
In using the instrument as already described the part from c to d, and.from
to d; are used to measure the neck sizes, in continuation from neck sizes in
Fig. 1. In measuring the length of the shoulder I use from a to'a, and for
the depth of shoulder from e to. For obtaining the length of waist I use the
inch measure from e to i for depth of chest from h to g, the chest sizes of.
which are marked with the alphabet; for width of chest I use from g to b
for width of waist from i to j; and for taking the length of side waist from j
to b is used. For shaping the armhole I use from to a. For shaping the
side piece I use from u to v of the instrument shewn at Fig. 1, by placing
the part marked u to o in Fig. 2, and the part marked v top in Fig. 2, and
drawing a line along its edge. For shaping the back I use from d to i.
For
taking the length of lappet I use from i to l.
In taking the length of the inner lappet I mark at r, k, n, then take the length of
lappet from p to n. From m to n are width of lappet sizes.
The
In taking the width of the lappet I place B to B, and mark at y and k. The
lappets are formed by drawing straight lines from p to n, and from i to k.
curved lappet is formed by placing the curve at b to the part marked r, and the part
marked to the part marked n, and drawing a curved line.
Fig. 3 represents the outline of the sleeve made in skeleton form and preferably
made of wood and other unbreakable substance. In using this instrument, for taking
the length of sleeve required I use the inch measure from e to f from shoulder to
elbow and from elbow to wrist I use from f to i. For width of the top parts of
sleeve I use the gradations from e to a, and from d to c, the sizes of which are marked
with the alphabet. For taking the height of shoulder I mark 1, 2, 3 at b as required.
For taking the width of elbow I use from f' to g, the sizes being marked with the
alphabet. For width of wrist I use from i to h, the sizes being marked with the
alphabet. For shaping the top part of the sleeve I use from 6 to a, and from 6 to c.
For shaping the back part of the sleeve I use the straight line from a to f, and from
f to i.
In drafting the under part of the sleeve I place the end of line at k to the sizes
at n, and draw a line to j, and a line from j to end of sleeve at wrist. Also for
making the curve for the under part of the sleeve I raise the curved line m to the
sizes at n, and draw the curve for the top part of the under part of sleeve.
In shaping the inner parts of the sleeve I use the curve from c to g, and from y
to h; and from / to i to draw the line at the wrist. From j to i are the collar sizes
marked with the alphabet.
In marking out a full dress pattern of given dimensions I proceed as follows.
For the front of bodice Fig. 1. The neck size being 18 inches I mark at the
perforation marked k from c to in the neck sizes. The length of waist being
21 inches I mark at the perforation 21 at n. The length of lappet being 7 inches
I mark at the point V. I next draw a line around the front of the figure from
the neck size at k to the point V. I next mark the height of the shoulder at the
perforation 3 at h-then draw the shoulder line to the length of 7 inches from the
neck size to the mark at h. I then take the depth of chest from the part marked j to
the perforation marked in the chest sizes. The chest size to be 50 inches I raise
the width of chest sizes to the mark made for depth of chest, and mark through the
perforation marked with the figure 50. I then place the side piece size 3 to the
width of chest and mark through the perforation 9, then mark at the perforation
1 and at s, then draw lines from q to "", and from 9 to 1', and along the side'
waist line marked 1.
I next draw the length of side piece line from the width of chest size to o, and the
lappet line from o to t, and then mark the lappet line from w to a. I next draw the
width of waist line from o to n. The waist size being 40 I mark at the perforation
marked with the figure 40. Leaving a space betwixt the gores I take out 1 inch
with the width of gore sizes,-the parts of inches marked 1, 2, 3 betwixt n and p.

page_text: I mark at the perforation 1 at y or and draw the lappet lines by the curves
marked L. I next mark the depth of the gores by the sizes at m, and then draw
lines from the marks made at Figure 1 in width of gore sizes, and draw lines from
the same marks to the bottom of the lappet. To shape the armhole I place the
perforation 3, at the armhole sizes E on the mark made at q draw the armhole curve
to end of shoulder line, also from perforation 3 along the curve P to the mark at 50.
I also make the neck curve with the curve T.
If drafting the side piece J separately from the front of bodice K I mark at q, r,
w, x, size 50, and then draw the line from that size to o and to t, and from to ▸ and
to r.
For the back of bodice, I mark the neck size 18 at the letter K, and the perfora-
tion at d. The length of waist is 17 inches, I mark at that size and also at the end
of the lappet line l. I next mark the height of shoulder at the perforation 3 at e.
I draw a line along the top of the figure from the neck size at k to the per-
foration d.
I then take the depth of chest from the part marked h to the perforation marked K.
I then place the width of chest sizes on the mark made for depth of chest and mark
the width of chest through the perforation with the figures 50. I then take the
width of waist at the length of waist by marking through the perforation bearing
the number 40. I next place the shoulder line on a line from the neck size K and
height of shoulder and draw the line to 7 inches. I next place the waist line marked
to the mark at 40 on the waist line, and the corner on the mark 50 on chest width
and draw the side piece curve, draw a straight line from j to k, draw the armhole
curve from the mark at 50 to the mark at the end of the shoulder line. I draw the
neck curve with the part marked T. I next place my pencil in a perforation in the
width of lappet sizes at n, and draw the perforation B at the lappet sizes m to the
perforation B betwixt and and mark the width of lappet at 64. I then draw the
side piece curve from o to p, and the length of lappet line from pto q, then the curve
from r to n, by using the curve from b to j. If drafting the side piece separately from
the back part I mark ato, p, n, and at size 50 at chest, 40 at waist, and lappet width
on line k, and drawing the side lines from b, j to k. For the sleeve. The length to
elbow being 17 inches, and from elbow to wrist 12 inches I mark through the.
perforations with those figures.
The width of the top part of the sleeve being 18 inches I mark at K in the sleeve
sizes B and at the perforation at n. For height of sleeve I mark at 3 at b. The
width of elbow being 15 inches I mark at g, and also through perforation at j. The
width of wrist being 9 inches I mark at the perforation marked with the small B
and through the perforation at o. I next draw the curve for the top part of the
sleeve by placing the corner c on the mark at size K and drawing a line from b, and
drawing the point a to the mark at K draw the line from 6 to a, draw the line from a
to, and from to i then draw the curve from h-placed on mark made at B on
wrist to g, and from g to mark at & in top of sleeve sizes. I draw the curve from j
to n by placing the part k on the mark made at n, then place the curve from / to m
on the marks made for width of sleeve at perforation k, and at and draw the line
as shewn. I next draw a line from j to o and draw the wrist line with the edge of
figure from i to h. If drafting the sleeve separately. I mark at n, j, o, g, size K and
size B, and draw the curves and lines as described. In marking out the collar I
mark at K in the sizes at F and through the perforations to j then draw the line
with the edge of the figure at space A. I would remark that the instruments
gradated in the manner shewn and described will greatly facilitate the taking of
measurements in sizes, and for forming exact configuration of the parts required. It
must also be understood that the description herein given refers to laying out the
patterns required in separate parts by taking the sizes and shapes of the linings from
the 3 separate figures, and that the designs and measurements may be marked either
upon paper, or linen, or other suitable material.
I would also observe that I do not wish to limit myself to all the details shewn.
and described herein, nor to the mode of procedure illustrated.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained.the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
-
A model of a dress pattern in three parts Front, back, sleeve, made in framework,
each separate part with the graduated sizes placed across the chest, waist, elbow,
wrist, top part of sleeve, also at neck, lappets, shoulder and for depth of chest, in
position for marking, arranged substantially as described in the Specification and
shewn in the drawings.
Dated this 1st day of January 1891.
PHOEBE HUTCHINSON.