IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN FIRE ESCAPES
Year: 1840

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES LEE
HANNAH, Doctor of Medicine, of the Town of Brighton, in the County of
Sussex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Twenty-fifth day of November, in the fourth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said James Lee Hannah, Doctor of Medicine, Her especial licence
that I, the said James Lee Hannah, Doctor of Medicine, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Lee Hannah,
Doctor of Medicine, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during
the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, and also within all Her Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad,
my Invention of an "IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN FIRE ESCAPES;" in
which said Letters Patent there is contained a proviso obliging me, the said
James Lee Hannah, Doctor of Medicine, by an instrument in writing under
my hand and seal, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, and to cause the
same to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said recited
Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will
more fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that, in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
James Lee Hannah, Doctor of Medicine, do hereby declare that the nature of
my.
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be used and
made, is described and ascertained as follows, that is to say:-
The Specification of the "Improvement or Improvements in Fire Escapes."-
The fire escape, in its whole and in its component parts, is applicable to other
purposes besides rescuing persons and things from destruction by fire, and pro-
moting the extinction of it. It is composed of a ladder formed of a multitude
of sections or parts, some ten feet long and some five feet; an elevator, a lifter,
a remover, a safety box, revolving poles, wheels, ropes and blocks, and pullies.
The sections are all continuable into one length, making the two sides of the
ladder parallel, or at an equal distance from each other, and that distance sixteen
inches and a half clear. The whole length of ladder may be sixty feet. The
spokes are to be of the best oak, and all one inch in diameter in that part of
their length which is not inserted in the wood of the ladder, except the lowest
one on each section. That lowest one is an inch and an eighth in its diameter
or thickness out of the wood. This lowest spoke goes into the wood one full
inch in diameter, leaving an eighth as a shoulder against each side of the
ladder. All the other spokes go into the wood seven eighths of an inch in
diameter, and leave a shoulder of one eighth against the sides of the ladder.
All the spokes have a slit at their ends to receive a wedge for securing them.
The spokes should all be turned, to ensure greater accuracy in their propor-
tions and fittings. All the spokes are to be let into the broad surface of the
wood, on a middle line in the length of it. The holes for the spokes must have
their centre most exactly ten inches from each other, except the centre for the
holes of the spoke next to the axle of the ladder wheels. That centre may be
five or six inches from the spoke next below.it. In making the holes for the
spokes, it is best to begin with the lowest one on a section, placing the centro
most exactly five inches from the end of the wood. The wood of the ladder is
to be best yellow deal for ladders generally, but other wood may be used, if
suitable in strength, and not too heavy. The wood is to be of the same breadth
and thickness throughout the whole combined length of the ladder, that is, it
must be four inches by two and a quarter, and perfectly straight, flat, and
even in all its parts. To the extreme ends of all the sections where one part
butts against another, a flat piece of sheet iron is applied. It is called the end
plate, and exactly covers the surface of the end of each section. These plates
are secured by five screws, each an inch long and a little less than a quarter
of an inch in diameter or thickness. They are all countersunk, so that these
plates form a firm flat buttment when the actions act against other. The

page_text: sections are connected to each other by means of plate bolts, eye bolts, screw
bolts, eye bolt plates, screw bolt plates, and screws, all made of the best
wrought iron. The eye bolt plates are ten inches long, three-eighths of an
inch thick, two inches and a quarter broad; all perfectly flat. These plates
are placed at the lower ends of each section, on the narrow and under surface.
of the wood. They are let into the wood flush. Through these plates the eye
bolts go into the wood; therefore they are called eye bolt plates. The end of
each plate is applied to the very edge of the wood, so that the end plate covers
the end of the eye bolt plate. Through each eye bolt plate two square holes
are cut most exactly in a longitudinal middle line on the plate; that is, a line
in the length of it. The square space or holes cut out must be three quarters
of an inch at each side, that is, three quarters of an inch square. The one
nearest the end of the wood must be at such a distance from that end as to
bring the eye of an eye bolt exactly an inch and a half from that end of the
eye bolt plate. This is a matter of great consequence to attend to. The
other square. hole or space in this plate is just such a distance from the first
one as will allow the plate bolt, from a lower section of the ladder, to pass
about three quarters of an inch through the eye of the eye bolt, that
is, to occupy that square hole so cut in the plate. By placing the bolt
part of each eye bolt at such a distance from each other a proper place
is provided for the spoke to go in between them. Near each corner of
an eye bolt plate a hole three eighths of an inch in diameter is drilled,
for the reception of a screw three eighths of an inch in diameter and two
inches long, clear of the head, which head is flat, half an inch square, and
only the eighth of an inch thick, that the heads of the two of them nearest
end of the ward should not interfere with the bolt that is to enter the
eye of
the eye bolt next to them. These screws assist in securing the plate to its
place, and the plate serves to strengthen the ladder at the connection of two
sections. The eye bolts are formed somewhat like the letter T, thus "T
taking a side view of the bolt, it having a cross piece at the top, through which
cross piece the eye goes, and therefore it is called an eye bolt. The other, the
perpendicular or downward part, exactly in the middle of the length of the
eye, is the body of the bolt itself. It is forged by punching or making a round
hole near the end of a piece of red-hot iron, of suitable size to allow the eye to
be beaten out on a round cold iron bolt to form the eye, two inches long,
having the bolt part exactly in the middle of the length of the eye. The eye
is to be thus forged one sixteenth of an inch less than its proper diameter, to
allow of the eye being worked out perfectly round and smooth. The proper.

page_text: diameter of the eye is six eighths of an inch; the eye must therefore be forged
five eighths, and one sixteenth of an inch in diameter. The round forming
the circumference of the eye must be a quarter of an inch thick at the upper
part in the length of it. Where this round or circumference of the eye rests
on the plate (through which the bolt part passes) the round or circumference
is flat, but still there is a quarter of an inch of substance between the eye and'
the plate, so that there is never less than a quarter of an inch of iron forming
the ring or round of the eye, though at some parts there is more than a quarter
of an inch. A view of the eye on the bolt is thus represented by this figure
. It comes down flat on the plate for three eights of an inch, which is
the thickness of the plate that the bolt part goes through. The bolt part is
squared exactly to fit in the cuts made in the plate, as before stated. The bolt
then goes off round to the end, and is five eighths of an inch in diameter. Its
length is four inches clear from the bottom of the round of the eye, so that it
might just come even off with the surface of the wood, which would be the
upper surface in the length of the ladder; that is, the surface on which the
safety box moves. Half an inch and a sixteenth of the length of this holt is.
reduced to the diameter of half an inch, and has a thread cut on this reduced
part to receive a collar over it as thin as the sixteenth of an inch, and for a
nut half an inch thick to secure this bolt in the upper surface of the wood.
This nut is to be sunk in the wood just flush with it, so as not to obstruct the
movement of the safety box up and down on the ladder. The eye of the other
eye bolt (the farther one from the end plate) need not be more than an inch
and a half long, in every other respect similar to the first one. These bolts
are to be worked perfectly straight, the holes in the wood for them bored
perfectly straight, and the bolts driven is as tightly as possible. The holes for.
the nuts are to be bored after the bolt holes, by putting in a plug about
an inch long at the end for the nut, then sawing off that plug close
to the wood, and applying the centre bit to the centre of the plug, and
cutting the larger hole to the proper depth for the nut; then driving out
the remainder of the plug. From the upper ends of a lower section of
the ladder and corresponding parts to the lower ends of an upper section,
where the plates and eye bolts are applied, an iron plate, three eighths of an'
inch thick, ten inches long, and two and a quarter inches broad, is applied.
This plate, three-eighths of an inch thick, like' the one just mentioned, is to be
perfectly flat, and exactly covering the wood. It has a round and perfectly
straight bolt extending from one end of it, ten clear inches long. It is forged
☐ on the plate, and rests, rounding as a bolt, one inch and a half on the plate.

page_text: <
This rounding is for greater strength to the bolt. This bolt must be perfectly
of the same diameter in its whole length, and smooth and just, and easy fit.
into the eyes of the eye bolts; it must therefore be rubbed down to a trifle
less than the given diameter of the eyes. This bolt must drop a quarter of an
inch from that surface of the plate it is attached to, that is, the outer surface,
considering the plate in its place. This bolt thus dropped (somewhat like a
bayonet) a quarter of an inch will, when its plate is applied to its place, come
exactly in a line with the eyes it is to enter, that is the intention of the drop,..
for these eyes are just a quarter of an inch from the surface of their plate, and
that surface is flush with the wood their plate is let into. In these plates,.
from which the bolt is continuous or extends, there are four similar screws to
those in the plates for the eye bolts; but in these plates the two screws nearest
the bolt are inserted clear of the part where the bolt is connected with the
plate. The other two screws are applied about an inch within the opposite
end of this plate. Through this plate two nut bolts are passed, each half an
inch in diameter, and four inches and three eighths long, clear of their flat
heads, that are three quarters of an inch square and one eighth and one.
sixteenth of an inch thick. These bolts are three eights eighths of an inch
longer than the eye bolts, because their plate, which is three eighths of an inch
thick, is not let into the wood. Both these nut bolts are applied in a middle.
line of the length of the plate. The one nearest the bolt end of the plate is
placed two inches from that end. The other bolt is placed two inches from
the opposite end of the plate. Of course holes are drilled in the plate for the
reception of the bolts and screws, and also holes bored in the wood for them...
Such two bolts in all the similar plates are to go tight in the wood, and:
secured at their ends by nuts similar to those on the eye bolts and in a similar
manner. The division of space between them is in consideration of the place
for the spoke. All the similar parts of each section are applied to their
places, as I have stated. The sides of the ladder are to be sixteen inches and:
a half clear from each other.. The extent of ladder I contemplate for ordinary'
purposes is about sixty feet; say three sections of ten feet and six sections
of five feet. As the elevator does not admit of a ten-foot section being.
applied by it, it is best to be supplied with as many sections of five feet as
would be required to elongate or extend the ladder to the necessary altitude in-
a narrow lane. If there be ample space to elevate the whole desired length.:
of ladder at once, then alternately a ten-foot and a five-foot section might
be connected. By this alternate connection the ladder would vibrate or shake
less; in other words, it would be stiffer. At the upper and under part of the
highest section (one of ten feet in length) the axle of: the wheels is applied.

page_text: two inches clear from the end. It is thrée feet ten inches long, out and out,
and an inch in diameter. The part of the axle that touches the ladder is an
inch square, and must be let into the wood tight and flush. A stout clamp or
clip, having an iron pin riveted in it, goes for about three eighths of an inch
into the axle at each side of the ladder. This pin, thus applied, keeps the axle
in its place. The clamp or clip has, going through each ends of it, a stout
screw, three eighths of an inch in diameter and about two inches long, clear
of its flat square head. The wheels are sixteen inches in diameter, and
made sufficiently stout to resist the weight that they might have to support
when the ladder is in its elevated position. The pressure then on the wheels
would not perhaps be more than two hundred pounds. The wheels are applied
and secured to the axle in the ordinary manner. On the round part of the
axle, that is, the part between the sides of the ladder, à flat iron hook is sus-
pended by three or four links of a chain, each link to be three eighths of an inch
thick in it's substance. This chain is to slide easily on the axle. The length
of the hook and chain together must be sufficient to allow the hook to be
applied and to grapple the safety box, when that box is drawn up as high as
the blocks and the eyes for the hooks of the box ropes will allow it to go.
The bent part of the hook must be upwards, to prevent it from catching
against the sill of a window as the ladder is going up. The use of the hook
is to take hold of the safety box, and detain it while a fireman is standing in
the box pointing the tube of his hose to any particular part of the interior of
a room or a building. The fireman applies the hook himself as soon as the
box takes him up to it. This hook enables him to leave the box with confidence,
and go into the room where the fire is blazing. His conscientiousness of ready
escape to the box will embolden him to venture far in the room in search of
persons or things. Between each side of the ladder and a wheel a block and
pully are applied to the axle. A stout iron strap surrounds each block from
above downwards. The upper part of the strap is forged with a hook, which
hook is beaten round the axle so as to become an eye fitting close to the axle.
The circumference or round of each pully is to admit in it a strong rope about
five eighths of an inch in diameter, and the circumference is to be forward,
not fronting the sides of the ladder. This position of the pullies will enable the
ropes to work the better. The pin of the pulley is half an inch in diameter,
and riveted at both ends to the strap of the block. The pullies are five inches
in diameter, and made of the hardest wood used for pullies.
The Elevator. The skeleton or frame of the elevator, somewhat resembles
two pair of dividers or compasses connected together at the top, opened, and their
legs separated from each-other. It is made of ash, and is six feet and a half

page_text: long or high from the foot to the top. Its substance is three inches by one
and a half. At the top, where each leg touches its fellow the wood projects from
the narrow side three inches in a shoulder for about twelve inches downwards,
forming a buttment in the length of each leg against its fellow. These
shoulders are to be cut out from an excess of wood, and in such a manner
that when they touch each other each leg at the foot will stand out from its
fellow four feet out and out. The shoulder of each leg will then butt against
the shoulder of its fellow in a line perpendicular to the ground. Thus the legs
will greatly strengthen each other. Three connecting bars of ash, three and
à half inches wide and five eighths of an inch thick, are let into each pair of
legs, on the outer part of the broad surface, flush, dovetailed, and shouldered.
They are secured at each end by a couple of screws. The lowest of these bars
is applied three inches clear from the foot end, the second one thirteen inches
and three quarters clear from the first, and the third twenty-seven and a
quarter from the second. At the top the four legs of the elevator are united
by a stout flat hinge. Each half of this hinge is half an inch thick and six
inches deep. Its upper part is as long as the wood is broad at the top. Each
half of this hinge is let into the wood of each pair of legs at the under part,
and flush; each half thus comes down against a good shoulder. They are
each secured to their places by eight stout screws, the heads of which must be
countersunk. This hinge should be shaped so as to conform to the separation
of each leg from its fellow, that is, it must be broader below than at the top.
In the body of the hinge there is a cut downwards through the middle of both
halves, to allow a pully about five inches in diameter and
(made of the hardest wood for pullies) to turn in the cut).
pully is the pin of the hinge. It is of iron, and half an inch in diameter.
An iron strap, about an inch and a half broad and the eighth of an inch thick
(a piece of sheet iron), goes over the pully from right to left; it is applied
close to the sides or flat surfaces of the pully. The ends of the pin are
riveted on this strap, and thus the strap is kept upright over the pulley..
The use of this strap is to keep the rope in its proper place. One side of
the elevator is boarded up on the outer part from the bottom to the top. It is
the side next the ladder. The boards are yellow deal, about five eighths of an
inch thick. This boarding is to keep the lower end of the ladder in a proper
line during the progress of its elevation, until a section be added to it:
On the opposite side of the elevator (which is not boarded) a crank is applied;
about two feet five inches from the bottom. This crank is simply put upón
the wood. There must be no cut for it. It is kept to its place by a stout iron
clamp on each leg of the elevator. The clamps bend round on the crank.
one inch thick
The pin of the

page_text: These clamps are to be well secured by one leg of a stout staple going
through a hole at the upper ends of them; against these ends there
will be great strain. The lower ends of the clamps have a cut in them
to allow, of their passing over another stout staple, and coming 'down upon
the wood, to be secured there by a removable pin, like a linch pin, allowing
the crank to be removed at will. The crank is passed through a piece
of hard wood, not quite round, but slightly angular, or having straight
ridges in the length of it. This piece of hard wood is about twenty inches
long and four inches in diameter. The crank is an inch and a quarter
square in its length within the legs of the elevator.. The round part
of the crank that touches the legs of the elevator must be one inch in diameter,
and continue so outwards as far as, where the handles are applied. At those
parts the crank should be an inch square for the handles to have a firmer hold
on the crank. The handles must be proportionably stout to the crank, which
may have to raise three or four hundred pounds weight of ladder. The handles
are secured to the crank by a nut at each end of the crank. The first bend of
a' handle from the crank inust be at least sixteen inches long, clear from the
crank; the second bend about fifteen inches long, with a knob at the end of it.
Under each leg of the elevator there is a well-pointed spike. This spike is
forged to a strap half an inch thick at the bottom, that the spike might have a
good hold to it, and for half an inch upwards on the strap it is to be three-
eighths of an inch thick, then the remainder of its length (two inches) is to
taper off to a quarter of an inch. These straps are applied to the broad
surface of the wood, and well secured by screws. To the piece of wood on the
crank one end of a strong rope, three quarters of an inch in diameter, is
secured by a staple riding over that end after one tie of the rope has been
made on the wood. This staple is driven into the wood nearly down to the
crank, and as close as possible to the rope, else it would be of no use. Its
purpose is to secure the end of the rope from slipping. A knot made of two
strands of the rope would make it perfectly secure. A knot of the entire rope
might derange it from a proper line with the pully. This rope must be suffi-
ciently.long to extend from the crank over the pulley down to the bottom of the
elevator on the other side. The end of the rope here passes through the eye
of an iron hook. The form of this hook is that of having two straight arms
extending right and left from the eye, that is exactly in the middle between
them, and at each end of these arms a broad flat hook is turned upwards.
They are merely a continuation of the arms in another direction. These flat
hooks (the hook part only being flat) are two inches and a half broad, and
three. eighths of an inch thick in substance. They turn. up an inch and a half;

page_text: that is, they are that much deep, and must be sufficiently open to receive
a spoke at the bottom of them. These two hook parts that come off from
the main body are to lay hold of the lowest spoke of a section that is to be
raised for allowing another section to be applied to the extent of ladder that
is standing. The two arms mentioned are each an inch in diameter or thick-
ness. The eye is to be forged as close as possible to the arms. The ring
forming the round or circumference of the eye should be half an inch thick in
its substance, and carefully made. The length of these arms out and out must
be most exactly sixteen inches and a quarter,-not a line more, for this hook
of the elevator is to run down between the sides of the ladder, which are only
sixteen and a half inches clear from each other, therefore allowing merely a
quarter of an inch clear space for the hook to go up and down between them;
but the advantage of this is, that the two branches from the main body of the
hook seize the spoke so much nearer to .its insertion, that is, so much nearer
to the sides of the ladder, and this is a great matter. This hook of the elevator
runs down upon the boarded part of the elevator when the elevator is placed
nearly parallel or even off with the ladder, and under it, as the ladder
stands. The two parts of the hook are then applied to the spoke under
and behind it. Then by turning the crank the hook brings up the section.
with it. The boarded part of the elevator keeps the ladder in a proper.
direction, and when the ladder is elevated sufficiently high, by pushing out the
foot of it (as the ladder is supported by the rope) two or three inches from
the elevator, the long bolts of a section to be added are introduced into the
eyes of the upper section. Then, by gradually letting the crank turn back,
the section last added will come down, and rest firmly on the ground..
Evidently it must have gone up the length of the bolts beyond the five-feet to
allow those bolts to be introduced into the eyes. A repetition of this
admits the application of as many five-feet sections as may be required.
The Lifter. The lifter is made of ash. It is about four feet high, clear of
the legs, seven inches broad, and one and a half thick; the ends perfectly
square. Down from the upper end through the broad-surface an oblong
square piece is cut out, seven and a quarter inches long and one inch and a
sixteenth broad. This cut is for a pully of seven inches diameter or width to
move in, clear from the end and bottom of the cut. Across this cut a hole is
process
bored through the wood for the pin of the pully to go in. This pin is of iron,
half an inch in diameter, and when in its place the ends are to be beaten a
little to prevent its coming out. Over the cut at the end of the wood a piece
of sheet iron one eighth of an inch thick is applied, exactly covering the wood
It is secured to its place by six or eight small screws. The use of this thin

page_text: piece of iron is to prevent the rope from accidentally getting out of its place.
Three inches below the space cut out another space is cut in a line with the
first. It is two inches and a half broad and twelve or fourteen inches long;
across this cut a crank is applied upon the wood not let into it. The length
of the crank must be no more than fourteen inches, including the nuts on it,
each nut half an 'inch thick. Bear in mind that the sides of the ladder are
sixteen inches and a half clear from each other. The crank has two handles
and a fixed kind of cog wheel that allows a piece of iron (applied above to the
side of the lifter) to drop in between the cogs as the crank turns, so as to
prevent, the crank from turning back, and keeps the crank fixed. The part
of the crank that is in the space cut out must be an inch and a quarter square
in its substance, and extend nearly across the cut. That square part of the
crank is to pass tight through a round hard piece of wood, say oak, ash, or
lignum vitæ, four inches in diameter. This round piece of wood is to move
just without touching the sides of the cut when the crank turns. The fixed
cog wheel, having its cogs or teeth rather (from their more resembling the
teeth of a saw than cogs) turning upwards, afford a ready catch to the piece
of iron that rests upon them, and allows the teeth to turn from it but
not against it. This piece of iron must be well secured by a stout screw;
but the eye or holo in this piece of iron must move very easily on a blank
part of that screw, that is, the part on which there is no thread. This
piece of iron is to be of the thickness of the so-called cog wheel, that in its
thickness it may go quite across the cogs or teeth of the wheel. It may be
about an inch and a quarter broad, and that broad surface to be next the wood
it is secured to. Its length must be sufficient for its screw to clear the upper
staple of the clamp it is next to. The diameter of the crank, right and left,
beyond the square part of it, is three quarters of an inch, but where the
handles are applied the crank is an inch square. Outside of the handles there
is a nut about half an inch thick. The substance of the handles is about three
quarters of an inch in diameter. The first bend of each handle from the
crank is eighteen inches long, the second bend, with a knob at the end of it,
nine inches long. The crank is secured by two iron clamps a quarter of an
inch thick, going over it downwards on the wood, and applied close to the cut.
These clamps are an inch and a half broad. The upper end of each clamp is
secured by one leg of a staple going through a hole made in the clamp. This s
hole should be made in the clamp as close to the crank as will allow the clamp
to turn over and upon the crank. The lower end of each clamp has a cut in
it to allow of its passing over a staple, and be then secured by a rod and nut,
the rod having a head at one end, and passing through both staples: The

page_text: lifter stands on four legs, to lift the ladder from the ground, near the wheel
end of it. These legs are made of wrought iron, and are in two pairs, each
leg opposite its fellow in the length of the ladder, when the lifter is in use;
each pair is connected to the other pair by a round and curved piece of iron
an inch in diameter, having the slight curve upwards like an arch nearly flat.
To the middle of this curved piece a strap is forged, five inches broad, five
inches long, and a quarter of an inch thick. It is to be secured to the wood
by five or six stout screws at each side, attending that the screws on one side
do not interfere with those on the other. To each end of the curved piece
mentioned a cross piece is forged, three quarters of an inch in diameter or
thickness, and this is also slightly curved upwards like a flat arch. From
each end of these two cross pieces a leg is bent downwards from the cross
piece. These constitute the four legs that the lifter stands on. But the cross
pieco that they come from must not be out and out (including the thickness
of the legs) more than eight inches long. The length of these legs is four
inches, clear of the pieces they come from. They are put between the spokes
as the ladder lies extended on the ground, a pair of legs next to each side of
the ladder. The lifter there stands to lift up the ladder, when the hook of the
lifter is passed under the spoke, and the crank afterwards turned. As soon as
the ladder commences its range to its destination, it leaves its lifter neglected
and standing alone at its place. The handles of the lifter are removed as soon
as the business of the lifter. is finished. This disengages the ladder from it.
The handles may be removed at any time before the ladder carries them off
with it, for the catch on the crank keeps the crank fixed, whether the
bandles be removed or not. This affords the means of changing the posi-
tion of the handles when the sides of the ladder come up to them and
would stop their turning. The ends of the legs are to be pointed. To
the round piece of wood through which the crank passes the end of a strong
rope, about five eighths of an inch in diameter, capable of lifting occa-
sionally about two hundred pounds, is secured by a half hitch round that
wood, and then a staple half an inch wide (that is, an eighth less than the
thickness of the rope,) is driven into the wood close down tight upon the end
of the rope. A small knot made with two strands of the rope (as with the
rope of the elevator) would afford additional security to the rope. The other
end of the rope is passed over the pully at the upper end of the lifter, and is
secured to the eye of a flat hook that has two flat bent prongs (which make it
the hook) coming off from two flat portions right and left to the The
eye is exactly in the middle. Each bend that forms the hook part is two
inches broad, three eighths of an inch thick, and an inch and a quarter deep.
eye.

page_text: The substance of the flat portions right and left is also three eighths of an
.inch thick and an inch broad, but where the eye is it is three inches broad,
the eye being cut through that part. Through the eye the end of the rope is
secured by a knot.
The Remover. The remover is made of ash. Its whole length is seven
feet. It is made by connecting two pieces of that wood parallel, or at
an equal distance from each other, in their length. That distance must be
exactly sixteen inches and a quarter out and out. This is a quarter of an
inch less than the sides of the ladder from each other in the clear. The
remover is to go between them. The two pieces forming the sides of the
remover are each at first three inches by two and a half. The sides are
connected by two slips or staves of ash or of oak, each three inches and a
half broad and five eighths of an inch thick, let into the wood under the sides,
dovetailed, shouldered, and secured by two screws at each end. One is placed
about two feet from the handle or outer end of the remover, and the other two
feet from the opposite or inner end. The sides have their narrow surfaces
upwards and under. For about eighteen inches from the inner end the inner.
surface is cut out a little in the form of a slight curve as far as about eight
inches from the outer end. The greatest depth of the curve cut must leave the
wood two inches and a quarter thick. Then it is that the connecting bars
are applied. At the outer end the handle' is laid across the two sides. Its
length is three feet six inches, breadth three inches, thickness an inch and
a half. At half an inch clear from the end it is let into the wood one
inch. Just the edges are to be removed from all that part of it that is not
in contact with the sides. This is merely to afford a better hold of it. The
parts beyond the sides must be of equal length.
Now the Wheels of the Remover.-The remover has two wheels, each two
feet in diameter, turning on an axle that is three feet two inches long in sub-
stance of iron, about an inch square. The axle is placed under the wood, but
not let into it. It must be one foot from the inner end. It is secured to its
place by two iron straps turning over or covering all that part of it that it is in
contact with the wood. Through each strap, and a quarter of an inch into the
axle, a shouldered pin passes. Part of the pin, from the shoulder of it, projects.
through the clamp. This part is beaten down on the clamp or clip, as the
workmen sometimes call it, and thus the axle is prevented from moving
to the right or left. Through that end of the clamp which is imme-
diately under the hook plate (which plate is on the opposite side of the
wood) a nut bolt of the plate passes, serving the double purpose of securing
the plate and the clamp or clip. This. bolt, three eighths of an inch in

page_text: diameter, is fastened by a nut. The other end of the clamp is secured
by a similar small bolt. Each end of the clamp extends about a couple
of inches from the axle. The wheels are applied to the ends of the
axle, and secured as wheels generally are in the safest manner. They
must be sufficiently stout to support a pressure of about three hundred.
pounds. The rule is for the diameter of the wheels that the radius or
half the diameter of them should be four inches longer than the spikes
that come off from below the hooks of the remover, and the length of the
spikes should be three inches greater than the length of a line drawn from
the lowest spoke of a section down to the under angle or corner of the side
of the ladder at which the line or distance is measured.
. The Hooks of the Remover.-To both sides and on the upper surface of the
inner end of the remover an iron plate of the best iron is applied, not let
into the wood. It is twelve inches long, three eighths of an inch thick, and
exactly covers the wood. It is bent downwards at a right angle, or touching
the square end of the wood, and at the under surface of the wood the plate is
bent upwards in the form of a flat hook. This bend must be sufficiently open
to admit a spoke down to the bottom of it. The bend goes up about two
inches and a half clear on the inside, then it turns outward a. little, something
like the rim of a bell; but this outward turn must not commence lower down
than an inch and three quarters from the bottom of the curve or hook. At
the bend the iron is to be reduced a little. The object of the bend will.
explain the reason of it. It is for the greater facility of passing the hook under
the spoke. The bottom part of this hook is of very unequal thickness. I
have described the appearance of the hook being formed from the plate; but
the hook and spike are of one piece, for greater strength to the connection of
the spike with it, and then the plate is forged to the upper part of the hook'
perfectly square with it, and the hook of the same breadth. The spike is an
inch in diameter, and goes down in a perfectly straight line flush with the
back part of the hook that is in contact with the wood. The spike is pointed
for about an inch from its end, like a sugar loaf turned upside down. This is
to allow it to take a good hold in the ground. Where this spike is connected.
to the bottom of the hook the substance of the hook is much thicker than at
an inch and a half below the bend downwards from the plate. This advantage
results from the hook and spike being made of one piece. The plate is
secured to each side by two nut bolts going quite through the wood, one, as
before stated, secures one end of the clip over the axle, the other is applied
about two inches from the inner end of the plate.
The Revolving Poles.-The revolving poles are of ash or of any other

page_text: .
suitable wood. They are. several in number, varying from five feet in length
to eighteen or more, according to the necessity of their purpose. At their
lower end they somewhat resemble a pitchfork with two prongs. The wood is
four inches broad and two inches thick. The ends of it must be perfectly
square and flat. This dimension of three inches by two extends only five
inches from each end; the wood then tapers off to two inches and a quarter by
two inches. Just the angles or corners are to be removed, say about the eighth
of an inch, that the poles might be more conveniently held. Over the upper end
a strap is placed; it comes down four inches on each side of the broad surface
of the wood, and entirely covers it. The bottom of this strap is three eighths of
an inch thick, and the strap is of the same thickness for half an inch down its
length on the wood; it then comes off to a quarter of an inch in thickness.
To the outer and upper part of the bottom, and across the broadest part of it, a
round piece of iron three quarters of an inch in diameter is well forged. It is
curved or bent in the form of what is called a flat arch. The depth of the
curve is about three inches. The curve is downwards, the reverse of an arch.
The distance across the curve out and out must not be more than sixteen
inches, for this curved piece of iron is to go in between the sides of the ladder,
which are sixteen inches and a half clear from each other. To each end of
this curved piece of iron straight upwards (in the length of the pole when
upright) a piece with a throat is forged. This throat resembles a pair of
sugar tongs cut off in the middle, leaving the cut part square. The bottom
and sides form the throat and jaws. These throats are easily to admit a
spoke to them, when the pole is pushed towards a spoke for that purpose.
The iron forming the jaws or sides of the throat is three eighths of an inch
thick at the bottom, and for about an inch upwards, then goes off to a quarter
of an inch. The depth to the bottom of the throat is three inches. The upper
edges or ends of the jaws are turned outwards like the end of a trumpet.. This
is for the purpose of more readily getting the spoke between the jaws of each
throat. The breadth of each jaw is two inches and a half from right to
left. The strap before described is secured by four or five stout screws at each
surface of the wood. The screws on one side must not interfere with those
on the other. To the opposite end of this pole a similar strap is applied,
and forged to a similar piece of iron, the strap, like the other one, being
exactly in the middle of the iron, but the curve of the iron is in the opposite
direction; it is like an arch, the curve upwards. The depth of the curve or
arch is to be an inch greater than the curve of the other one. The distance of
the curve across out and out from right to left is to be twenty-four inches.
I am in allusion to the first or shortest pole, say one of five feet. From each

page_text: end of the curve a stout spike three quarters of an inch in diameter or thick-
ness is formed. It may be a continuation of the end of the curve. Each spike
is about three inches long, with a print about a quarter of an inch diameter.
The similar curve for the second pole, say about nine or ten feet long, a little
more or less, is made like the first one, but it must be a little wider to admit
of its being placed occasionally with its spikes at the outside of the spikes of
the first one, in the same line with them, and that line at the bottom of the
stonework of a railing. The distance of the spikes from each other of the
second pole should be twenty-five inches. Those of the third pole twenty-six,
for the same reason, for them to go outside the spokes of the second, and so on
in successive lengths. One or two of the revolving poles have hooks that are
passed over a spoke to catch the ladder as it descends, and to allow it to come.
down to the ground most gradually after it has left the wall or side of the
house; but the poles without these hooks will do the same thing. The
advantage of the hooks is that the pole may be left pendulous, or hanging.
to the spoke, until the ladder comes down sufficiently low to rest upon
it. But before the ladder rests upon it its spikes or spike end must be
swung inwards, that is, from the remover, so that when the ladder begins to.
rest upon it the spikes will be against the stone work of the railing or a curb.
stone. In putting on this pole it is essential that the hooks be towarards the
remover, else the pole will fall, for it will then turn off, and become clear of
the spoke; therefore the hooks must be towards the remover, to prevent the.
consequences of such a fatal accident. These poles are similar to the other:
revolving poles (for they are also revolving poles) in every respect, except that
they have the upper jaw of each throat bent over the under one like a hook..
This bend comes quite over the throat, and is sufficiently from the end of the
under jaw to allow the hook to go over a spoke. This bend or hook should.
come down two inches below the end of the under jaw. The inner surface of
the top of the curve or hook should be an inch and a half higher than the
end of the under jaw. Both forms of the revolving poles are applicable in
lowering the ladder. There must be always particular care that the poles,
when used for this purpose, are sufficiently long to get the weight of
the ladder upon them before the ladder leaves the house or the wall..
In elevating the ladder a pole must never on any account whatever bo.
applied to the middle of the length to be raised, for then there would be the
greatest possible danger of the ladder tilting out of the hooks of the remover,
and dreadful consequences resulting to lives and to limbs; but if the poles be
applied to any part or parts ten feet less than half the whole. length to be.
raised, it will be impossible for them to tilt the ladder out of the hooks of the

page_text: remover. Even five feet less than half the length would throw the prepon-
derance or greater weight of the ladder upon those hooks; but I think that
distance would be too near to a balance for confident safety; I therefore
advise ten feet distance. Therefore let there be always an ample length of
ladder, in case of its having to go over balconies and verandahs, that there
may be a safe distance for long poles to be applied to carry the ladder over
them. There must be always poles sufficiently long for extraordinary cases,
and such poles must be a trifle stouter, on account of their much greater
length, than the others. Perhaps some of eighteen or twenty feet might
be required. There can be no difficulty in having them of any length, to
elevate the ladder beyond the range of balconies and verandahs or other
similar obstacles.
.
The Safety Box.-It is made of yellow deal or any other suitable wood.
It is three feet nine inches long as it rests on the ladder, out and out, two feet
eight inches wide in the clear, and eighteen inches deep also in the clear.
The two sides, right and left, are secured by screws laterally to the bottom,
that is sideways to it,-not upon it. The boards for the bottom or ladder
side (so called because that side rests on the ladder) are placed downwards,―
not across; they are an inch and a quarter thick; the sides right and left
have the wood lengthwise to the box; it is an inch thick; the lower
end side is an inch and a half thick. On the inside of the box, at each
side right and left, there are three knees of hard wood, say ash or oak,
extending nine inches on the ladder side or bottom, and going all the
way upwards to the edge of each side. The two lowest knees on each side
are two inches and a quarter broad and one inch and a half thick, but
at the bend of the knee and three inches from it on both parts the wood
is two inches thick, for greater strength to the knee or bend. The upper
edge (that is, the edge next to the upper end of the box), in its whole length,
must be pared off a little, so as not to hurt persons getting into the box from a
window. The highest knee on each side is four inches broad, and placed even
with the upper edge of the box.. It is of the same thickness as the other
knees. The lowest knee is to be in contact with or touching the lower end'
side of the box when that side is let down to its place in a groove. This lowest
knee to each side forms the upper side of that groove, into which this side of
the box is to go at will, it being removeable. At the outer part of these knees
to both sides of the box (right and left), and to the ladder side, a slip of oak or
.ash is well secured by stout screws. These slips extend all the way across the.
box and up the sides. They are two inches and a half broad and an inch and
a half thick. They must be well secured by stout screws. For those at the

page_text: sides I recommend nut screws. These three pieces from the outer part of the
groove, for this removeable side to drop into. Under the box there are three
slips of similar wood going quite across. They are three quarters of an inch
thick. The upper one is the broadest, that is, four inches broad; "the others
three. The upper one is placed at the very edge of the box; "the second or
middle one'is placed so as to have its upper edge or side eighteen inches from
the lower end side of the box, for upon this edge or side of the slip a fireman's
foot is to rest, when he passes that foot through an oblong square space cut
through the box, to enable him to raise himself out of the box, and go through
a window. These slips (or battens, as they are called) and the knees men-
tioned are to be all well'secured by screws, for the box may occasionally have
to sustain a weight of three or four hundred pounds. At about one foot from
the right side of the box a space is cut out from the lower or under edge of
the lower end side, for a fireman's hose to pass through it. The form of this
space exactly resembles a pigeon-hole, round above and coming down straight.
The space must be sufficient to admit a hoze of the largest size. Close around
this space a piece of iron, three eighths of an inch thick and an inch and a
quarter broad, is applied to the outer part, and secured by screws. The two
ends of this curved piece of iron are forged into two stout round pieces, half an
inch in diameter, and long enough to go through the wood that this removable
side rests upon. They serve to support the cut part. Over the inside of the
space for the hose there is a wooden valvular flap (of ash), three quarters of
an inch thick; it hangs by a couple of flat hinges. Its use is to prevent the
feet of persons from slipping through the space. By the position of this flap
the space is always covered with the box, is on the ladder, and the hose not
present. At the upper end of the box, and under part, at the very edge upon'
the slip or batten fixed there, a piece of iron is applied extending to the upper
edge of each side, right and left. This iron will occasionally have to sustain
a great weight, such as was before stated. It is four inches broad; exactly
the breadth of the batten at that part of the box. It is a quarter of an
inch thick in its whole extent. This range of iron must be well secured by
two lines of stout screws at the bottom and the sides of the box. From the
upper edge of the part under the box, and half an inch clear from the outer
part of each side of the ladder, and extending outwards not within the sides of
the ladder; two flat pieces project, of the same thickness (a quarter of an inch).
and extend two inches clear above the edge of the iron alluded to. These two
projecting pieces have each a hole for the two hooks that raise the box.
Exactly in the middle between these two projecting pieces, and coming off
from the same piece of iron that they do, there is another projecting piece.
-

page_text: This is five inches broad, and goes up the same distance, in the same direction
with the other two pieces. These three pieces are forged to the iron they
come from. About an inch from the upper edge of this middle piece, exactly
across the middle of it, an oblong square space is cut out, three inches in
length across, and three quarters of an inch broad. This oblong space is to
receive a flat hook suspended by its eye to a short chain that has the axle of
the wheels going through its highest link. By this link, sliding easily on the
axle, the flat hook is easily applied by a fireman through the oblong cut. The
links of the chain and the hook must be stout enough to sustain the weight
before mentioned. The edge of the hook must be upwards, that it might not.
catch against the sill of a window in the progress of the ladder as it rolls up
from one window over another. The chain must be just long enough to admit
of the hook being applied, when the box comes up, as high as the pullies and
the length of the rope hooks will allow it to go.
The Box Rod. It is of iron,, and goes quite across the. box, in a line with
the ends of the iron (that goes, round the bottom and sides, as mentioned.
Its diameter thickness is three eighths of an inch; but at about an inch
before its ends reach the sides of the box it is an inch broad and three eighths
thick. From, each end a double piece goes down six inches, like a rider, on
the inside and outside of the box. This rider is an inch broad and a quarter
of an inch thick. It goes down.close upon, the upper part of the knee on the
inside, and upon the long piece of iron on the outside. Through this iron on
the outside there must be holes left for the stout screws that secure the rider
to pass into.
The Guides. They are two pair made of iron at the sides of the box, and
under it the guides are placed. They extend six or eight inches up the sides
of the box. Their, use is to guide the box up and down on the ladder, and to
prevent the possibility of the box falling off.. They are a quarter of an inch
thick and two, inches and an half broad; are bent from the sides of the
box under it, and as near as half an inch from the outer part of each
side of the ladder. They are then bent again, to form the part that acts as
the guide, and this part in the upper pair projects ten inches straight
from the box with the lower pair. This part projects only nine inches.
They are opposite to each other at each side of the box. The lower pair
stand about six inches from the lower end of the box; the upper. pair. about
eighteen inches from them. They are to be secured, by screws at half an inch
from the projecting; ends of the lower guides (considering the box upon the
ladder); in a middle line a hole is made to admit a rod three eighths of an
inch in diameter; this rod has a shoulder four or five inches from one end of

page_text: it; at that end it is held, to be passed through both holes of the guides, a
person at the opposite side introducing the other end into the hole for it. The
opposite end of the rod from that held may either have a steel spring slit
(by forging on a piece of steel) with a shoulder to prevent the rod from
coming out (unless that end be compressed), or there may be a nut applied
for that purpose. I think the spring slit preferable. Over the open part of
the box a stout canvass or leather apron is applied, somewhat like the apron
of a gig. It is secured to the box by three appropriate holes in each side of
it, to admit the brass knobs at the end of nails driven into corresponding parts
of each side of the box about an inch and a half below the edge. This apron..
is expeditiously removed and applied. Its use is to prevent the children and
things from falling out of the box.
The Box Ropes. They are about five eighths of an inch in diameter, made
of the best hemp, and capable of sustaining the weight already mentioned. To
one end of each rope a hook, about half an inch thick in its substance, is
secured. This hook must have a steel spring or catch going from the body to
the point (something like the hook of a watchguard chain), to prevent the rope
from accidentally coming off from the hook. The ropes, each double, pass
through the blocks on the axle of the wheels, and extend double not less than
eight feet beyond the handle of the remover. Over the next spoke to the
lowest on the ladder a double rope, half an inch in diameter and its ends tied
together, is passed with a half hitch, one of them to each side of the ladder.
In this manner the double rope must extend about two feet from the ladder
and under it: These short double ropes are for the purpose of passing the
box ropes through each double of them, that the descent of the loaded box
may be easily contracted by the men holding the box ropes, and pulling against
the descent of the box. This check on the box renders the work much easier
than if these little double ropes were not used. When they are not wanted
they may be kept securely on the hooks, the steel springs to which will serve
the double purpose of safely keeping these little ropes always at hand. I
consider them very useful, though not essential.
The Hose Hook and Rope.-The rope is of the best hemp, five eighths of
an inch in diameter, the ends passed through the eye of a hook, and then tied
together. The hook is flat, two inches broad in its substance, and three
eighths of an inch thick. The rope is two or three times, or more, passed
round the hose, at two or three feet distance from the tube or pipe of the
hose, by a fireman, each time forming a half hitch on the hose, the rope
being long enough to allow of this, and affording five or six inches over.
This fastening of the rope to the hose is similar to the method sailors

page_text: .
adopt to carry up the end of a heavy rope to the top of a ship. The
rope being properly applied to the empty hose, the hose is laid in the
box, and the removable end is applied to its place, the cut in it coming over
the hose. The fireman then gets into the box, and applies the hose hook
over the upper end of the bottom of the box. The shape of the hook,
somewhat square, must be adapted or suited to its position over the end of the
box. These preparations being accomplished, the box, fireman and hose are
drawn up, the fireman merely holding the gripe of the hose while he supports
himself by leaning against the box rods. This support allows him the full use
of both his arms in pointing the tube to any particular part of the interior of a
room. At his direction the men below fill the hose. Having secured the box
to the hook on the axle, he uses the tube steadily, and fears no accident from
casualty to the men at the ropes by which he was pulled up, for ho is now inde-
pendent, of those ropes, and the men need not attend to them until the box is to
.. be raised a little for the fireman to disengage the hook at the axle from the box.
Directions and Remarks.-Extend the ladder a sufficient length, then
.connect the sections by introducing the bolts through the eyes exactly in
a line opposite the window or part of the building to which the ladder is to
be applied, the wheels very near the curb-stone of the foot pavement, some-
.times upon that pavement, if it be very broad; then pass the hooks of the.
remover under the last or lowest spoke, and depress the handle of the remover
until the ladder rests on the spikes; then let another person jam the spikes of
the shortest pole (which must be as long as the railing is high from the foot
pavement) against the bottom of the stonework of the railing, the men at tho
.remover depressing and shoving (both actions together) forward the remover,
, for the purpose of bringing the axle of the ladder wheels against the throats
of the pole; this,done, and the ladder being kept firmly pressed' against
the pole by two or three men at the remover, apply the lifter between the
.sides of the ladder for the hook (having two prongs) of the lifter to take
hold of the third spoke from the axle, the prongs of the hook being towards
the remover, then turn the crank of the lifter (the ladder being all the time
firmly pressed against the pole), and the ladder will begin to rise. But before
you, leave the, crank remove the nuts and withdraw the handles that the ladder
may go away from the lifter. The fixed wheel on the crank, and the catch
.that drops between the cogs or teeth of it prevent the crank from turning
back. The handles may be removed at any time, to allow the sides of the
ladder to be drawn up higher by changing the position of the handles when
.they interfere with the sides of the ladder. But, as I said, before, the lifter is
.not essential, for by passing a spare pole under the ladder, and near the wheels,

page_text: . two men at each side of the ladder lifting the pole will effect the purpose of the
lifter. As the ladder rises the pole begins to revolve with it, and takes it as
bigh as the railing. This.action of the pole results from the power of the
men applied at the end of the remover. The poles must never go beyond a
perpendicular or upright position in elevating the ladder; this is a safe rule.
Another should be applied to catch the weight of the ladder befor the previous
one comes to a perpendicular. The second pole is to bring the wheels of the
ladder in contact with the house. It must be long enough for its purpose,
the spikes of it to be placed at the outside of those of the first pole.
The jaws of this second pole are pushed against the farthest spoke it
. can reach, just before its spikes are jammed. But remember, a pole is:
never on any account whatever to be applied to the middle of the ladder, but
rather at ten feet less than half the length. By continuing to depress and
shove at the remover, this pole revolves, and carries the wheels of the ladder
over the area, and lodges them on the side of the house. That done, the
ladder is wheeled to its destination by continuing the depression, and shoving
at the handle of the remover. When that handle is not depressed, the ladder
rests most firmly on the spikes of the hooks of the remover. Pressing at the
end of the remover (which acts as a lever) raises the weight of the ladder,
and fixes that weight on the wheels, the axle being the fulorum of the lever.
.When the weight is on the wheels the ladder is very easily moved forwards or
backwards. Its own weight brings it down backwards, and then the care
must be to depress so as to raise the spikes but little, and act at the same
time against the descent of the ladder. The moment the pressure is removed,
the progress of the ladder stops, for the spikes are instantly' jammed in the
ground. If a balcony or verandah interpose, use for the second pole one long
enough to carry the end of the ladder above it, that it might be afterwards
let down upon the house by another pole without resting on the balcony or
verandah. Mind and have a sufficient length of ladder. The last pole
applied must always catch the weight of the ladder before the previous one
losses it. By pushing forward the remover, the ladder will go o
over the
verandah, and rest on the house before this amply long pole comes to a
perpendicular, but by continuing to push, the pole will be disengaged, because
the ladder will go away from it. But some one must take it before it falls..
The men at the remover must never leave their place, and when in action.be
very attentive to what they are about. They should be well trained, as well as
all others who engage in the application of this fire escape. The ladder
-being thus applied, the safety box is put on, its ropes applied, the guide.rod in
its place, the lower end side in the groove, the apron across. It is drawn up for

page_text: persons to get into it at the window or the top of the house. Its descent is
regulated as before stated. On the persons getting out of the box (by unbutton-
ing the apron), the fireman ascends for his purpose. The remover is not to be
withdrawn until the whole business of the ladder be completed, and it be lying
on the ground. The presence of the remover creates the impossibility of the
ladder slipping when it is elevated, by the firm resistance of the spikes in the
ground. In a lane, where the remover cannot be used, the elongation or
lengthening of the ladder must be made by using the elevator in the manner
before stated. In the use of the elevator in narrow lanes, the impédiments
of balconies and verandahs cannot be overcome by the poles; they must be
broken down, for the wheels to pass. In streets that do not admit a sufficient
length of ladder to be applied at once by the remover and the poles, though
admitting their use, the limited length can be elevated; and then the remover
withdrawn, for the elevator to be applied. The spoke it has hold of can be
turned out of the hooks by moving the handle of the remover to the position
it was in when taking up that spoke, then drawing out the body of the
remover. In that action the spikes will be turned from under the spoke, the
hooks disengaged, and the ladder rests on the square edge of the eye-bolt
plates, or rather on the end plates. To remove the ladder after this, apply the
remover as in the first instance, but more leisurely. Depressing the handle
lodges the weight of the ladder on the spikes when the handle of the remover
is sufficiently depressed. By gently depressing the handle, and going back-
wards, the ladder will descend most easily. When it is about seven or eight
feet above the railing, let a pole catch it, the spikes against the stonework of
the railing, and that pole will bring the ladder easily and gently over the
railing, and lodge it on the ground for men to remove it in sections. If there
be no railing, this application of the pole will scarcely be necessary, as a
sufficient number of men would be able to take it in their arms when its
upper end was six or seven feet from the ground. But the pole would be
very convenient, and make the work much easier; fewer men would be
required. The clear distance of the wheels from each other allows them to.
move up close at each side of an ordinary window, that clear' space being.
three feet four inches, but it might be three feet eight or ten inches, if
required, only making the axle a little stouter. I advise that after the ladder
be raised high enough by the elevator, that the remover be applied, to prevent
the possibility of the foot of the ladder slipping from its place. This can be
done very expeditiously by skilful men, and none but such should be employed
in applying this fire escape. What I claim as new in the fire escape, and as
my Invention, for which I prayed Letters Patent; arė,—