IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET
Year: 1854

page_text: by the Act.)
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Julian Bernard at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 14th September
1854.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS
FOR THE FEET" to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the cutting or shaping out of the heel portions of
boots and shoes by the aid of partially self-acting machinery. The apparatus
employed, which is automatic or self-acting in its essential details, is entirely
contained or held upon an independent table or stand, of a height suitable
for the operator, and upon this table or framing is a short vertical cutter
spindle, arranged to rotate in stationary bearings.
This cutter spindle projects at its lower end beneath the table level, and it
thero carries a band pulley, by which it is actuated through the medium of an
endless band connected with any suitable prime mover. The upper end of the
cutter spindle is formed with an adjustable nut collar for the reception of the
cutters. These cutters are conveniently made of a metal centre piece or boss,
notched or grooved out upon its periphery to receive the inner dovetailed edges
of a set of spiral cutters.

page_text: The cutting contour of these cutters is formed to a convex curve, being
somewhat wider in diameter on the lower side when in cutting position. This
contour corresponds to the convexity intended to be given to the boot or shoe
heel. Beneath the upper collar bearing of the cutter spindle is a loose collar
disc, truly turned, with a slight bevil upon its periphery, the wider side being
downwards. This disc rests upon a collar set upon a screw piece of rapid or
coarse pitch on the cutter spindle beneath, and this supporting collar has
attached to it a short lever handle, working by its loose end over an inclined
segmental holding rack piece. With this arrangement the operator has
merely to turn round this adjusting lever to set the disc which it governs higher
or lower upon the spindle, and thus, by the bevil upon the disc, regulate the
lateral set of the blank holder in reference to the line of the cutter spindle.
Close by the cutter spindle, and upon the same frame, but held quite inde-
pendently thereon, is the apparatus for holding the blanks out of which the
heels are to be shaped. This holder consists of a species of frame, set upon
an adjustable centre carried by a horizontal traverse slide. Its vertical spindle
has entered upon its lower part an accurately shaped metal pattern of the
intended heel, the edge of which is bevilled off to correspond to the bevilled
edge of the disc on the cutter spindle, a weight or spring being employed for
the purpose of keeping the metal pattern pressed fairly up against the disc.
Above this pattern piece, and in a direct vertical line therewith, is a screw or
other holder, for clamping down the piece of wood or other material forming
the blank out of which the heel is to be shaped. When so arranged, the
attendant sets the rotatory cutter in rapid motion, and brings up the blank
holder, so as to adjust the blank into cut. He then, by means of a worm and
wheel, or other action, gradually turns round the blank holder and its metal
pattern upon its dead centre, and as the pattern bears constantly against the
disc or the cutter spindle, it follows that the blank is accurately guided into
greater or less depth of cut until the heel is completed.
Heels of various materials may be shaped in this machine; and in some
instances it is proposed that the boot, shoc, or clog itself may be placed in the
apparatus for the shaping up of the heel therein. By an extension of this
routine of working, entire soles with heels complete may be cut out, with the
aid of metallic patterns corresponding to the shape of sole and heel.