IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, &
Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE SEWING MACHINES." A communication
from abroad by E. Remington and Sons, of Ilion, New York, United States of
America.
Sealed the 6th July 1877, and dated the 11th January 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 11th January 1877.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE SEWING
MACHINES." A communication from abroad by E. Remington and Sons, of Ilion,
New York, United States of America.
This Invention relates to improvements in button-hole sewing machines, and
comprises the following devices and combinations of parts :-
The bed of the machine has an arm; a band wheel is pinned firmly to the end
of a shaft, which passes through the said arm, and has upon its other end a double
cam formed without grooves. This double cam is concealed by the cap or cast-iron
plate that covers the end of the arm.
The needle bar passes through this cap, and is operated by the double.cam by
means of two studs and rolls fastened to the needle bar. One of these stud rolls
takes a bearing upon the inner and the other upon the outer portion of the double
cam, which by its peculiar shape always maintains the same distance between the
rolls, and thus produces and maintains a perfect fit and no lost motion, as in an
ordinary grooved cam.
At the extremity of the needle bar is formed the shuttle holder, in which is
placed the shuttle, carrying an eye-pointed needle, the shuttle being held therein by
a spring catch.
The inner flange of the bobbin is grooved down some distance. The bobbin is
wound with thread as follows, that is to say:-I first pass the end of the thread
through a guide slot in the bottom of the shuttle, then put the bobbin in its place
on the spindle. The thread is then drawn under a tension disk and to a guide
pick at the heel of the shuttle; thence it passes under a roller in the upper part of

page_text: the shuttle, out over the top of the shuttle, through eyes and a groove directly to
the needle.
The tension device is on the bottom of the shuttle, and consists of a stud with a
nut and spring holding the disc up against the bottom of the shuttle. The afore-
said guide nick stands slightly out of line with the groove in the flange, and there
is another guide nick under the roll out of line with the same groove.
Working on a slide at the lower end of the needle bar is a double-pronged
vertical take-up. This slide moves in a vertical groove on the needle bar, and the
take-up has a pin projecting into a vertical slot in the bar; at the lower end of
this slot is a short inclined slot. On the stud that pivots the take-up to the slide
is a roller, around which is placed the lower forward end of a crank pivoted to a
projection on the needle bar. The upper end of this crank is operated by a lever
pivoted on a plate. This lever receives its motion from a small double take-up
cam firmly attached to the shaft, the take-up lever being provided with two slides
and rollers to bear against its edges.
On turning the band wheel as the needle reaches its full height the shuttle
becomes rigid in the needle bar, and remains so until the needle has descended and
reacted; then the shuttle is loose in the needle bar. This alternate tight and loose
motion is produced by a vertical steady bar that projects through the head of the
aforesaid arm, and against which the roller in the shuttle rests. This steady bar
swings upon a screw pin; at its extreme end it has a stud and roller; the latter
rests against the back face of said cam, and this face having a groove in it allows
the roller to drop into it to loosen the pressure on the shuttle, it being thrown into
said groove or sunken track by a coiled spring. The portion of the steady bar,
against which the shuttle roll bears is formed by letting into the said bar an
adjustable wedge-shaped piece.
Motion from the arm shaft to the bed shaft of the machine is communicated by
an intermediate leather-rimmed gear wheel hung upon a fixed stud. The leather
rim of this wheel is shrunk upon its iron centre, and held in position by screws
through flanges that cover it. The teeth are cut in the leather rim. On the lower
shaft is a small cam that operates a long feed shaft by means of a swinging lever
with a stud at one end working in the groove on the said cam and a slide at the
other end. The said slide works through an adjustable grooved box provided with
a thumbscrew to regulate the length of the stitch. The said grooved box is
attached to a ratchet lever, which by the operation of a pawl and spring upon a
ratchet wheel pinned upon the feed shaft produces a regular intermittent motion to
the latter. Next to the ratchet wheel is a rubber-faced friction wheel pinned to
the feed shaft, and provided with a friction spring fastened to the bed with screws.
The object of this wheel is to prevent back motion to the feed shaft. On the lower
main shaft is a double-motion cam. A short lever swinging from a projection on
the under side of the bed is operated by this cam and by a stud and roll. The
upper end of this lever operates a short slide that works in a groove in the bed
under the steel throat plate. Projecting through this throat plate is a stud attached
to the said slide, and to this stud is fastened by a screw a thin steel arm that runs
to the end of the throat plate and curves at a right angle to its length. This is
called the beater arm. Fastened to the said arm is an inclined piece that gives the
beater a downward motion by contact with the stud and roll attached to the throat
plate. At the extreme end of the main lever shaft is the main lever cam, provided
with a groove, from which by a stud and roll a stud or fork lever attached to the
bed is operated. Working vertically through the throat plate is a fork-shaped bar
provided at its upper end with a pair of forks, which on the up motion pass each
side of the shuttle. This fork bar is operated by the fork lever. In front of the
fork bar stands a vertical grooved worm, its lower end working on a pivot attached
to one of the caps of the fork bar, and its upper end passing through the bed.
Outside of the worm and attached to the bed is a guard or shield. Attached to
the upper end of the worm and directly under the throat piece is the looper or
hook.

page_text: The end of the throat plate projecting beyond the bed has the needle hole, and
fitting up against this is a coned-shaped hollow and flanged piece called the tip
This tip is attached to a suitable supporting piece, which is firmly fastened to the
bed. At the extreme end of the long feed shaft is a small rubber-faced wheel, and
driven by this is a leather belt running to what is called the feed frame, and giving
motion to the feed clutch wheel. This clutch wheel is placed loosely upon an
L shaped arm, the vertical part of which is fastened in a socket and the frame of
the machine. On the front face of the clutch wheel are cut radial clutch teeth, which
when the levers are closed upon the said tip engage in corresponding teeth in the
rear end of the feed frame, and cause the said feed frame to revolve, the wheel
being pressed against the frame by a spring. The levers are opened by means of
the dog and stirrup. Attached to the feed frame is a bent sliding bar called a
shifter, and provided with a projecting handle to disengage the clutch wheel. At
the extremity of the said levers are circular steel saws, which clasp the tip when
closed.
To the end of the arm that supports the feed frame is attached a vertical lever
with a spring and stop pin. This lever is called the knee lever, and has a shoulder
or offset near its upper end, against which the said dog should rest when the clutch
levers are open. The height of the feed frame is regulated by a size gauge attached
to the said L shaped arm, and resting on the socket check dog, is pivoted on the
back of the arın, and operating against the wheel to prevent the same from turning
backwards.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 11th
July 1877.
"
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE SEWING
MACHINES." A communication from abroad by E. Remington and Sons, Ilion,
New York, United States of America.
This Invention relates to button-hole sewing machines, and consists in various
improvements in the construction and combination of the parts of such machines, as
herein-after specified.
In the accompanying Drawings,-
Figure 1 is a front elevation, partly in section, of a button-hole sewing machine
embodying this Invention; Figure 2 is an under side view of the same.
Figures 3 to 19 shew various parts of the said machine detached, and herein-after
described.
A is the bed of the said machine provided with an arm B; C is a band wheel
keyed or pinned firmly to the end of a shaft D, which passes through the arm B,
and has upon its other end a double cam E, E¹, formed without grooves. This
double cam is concealed by the cap or cast-iron plate G that covers the end of the
arm. Passing through this cap is the needle bar H, which is operated by the double
cam E, E, through the medium of two studs and rolls a, a, fastened to the said
needle bar. One of these stud rolls takes a bearing upon the inner and the other
upon the outer portion of the double cam, which by its peculiar shape always
maintains the same distance between the rolls, and thus produces and maintains a
perfect fit without lost motion, as in an ordinary grooved cam. One of the studs a
is movable, having a set nut, so that when the needle bar becomes loose by the
wearing of the cam it can be adjusted to rectify the motion. The shuttle and parts
connected therewith are clearly shewn in Figures 3, 3ª, 3%. At the extremity of
the needle bar H is formed the shuttle holder I, in which is placed the shuttle J,
carrying an eye-pointed needle b. The shuttle is held in this holder by the spring
catch d; this shuttle and needle are carried alternately up and down by the needle

page_text: bar. By slightly springing backward and upward the spring catch d, the wheel
having previously been so turned that the needle is about half an inch above the
plate on its up motion, the shuttle can be removed by taking hold of the needle b
and drawing it to the left. The said needle is fastened in the shuttle by a small
K is the bobbin, which works freely on its spindle e, and which may be
removed by turning the shuttle with the bobbin side down; it will then drop out,
or it may be pushed out with a pin through a small hole in the back of the
set screw.
shuttle.
The inner flange f of the bobbin is grooved down, as shewn in Figure 4, which is
a section on the line x, x, Figure 3. The bobbin is wound or filled with thread as
follows, that is to say:-I first pass the end of the thread through the guide slot i
in the bottom of the shuttle near the needle, then put the bobbin in its place on the
spindle c. The thread is then drawn under the tension disc h and to the guide
nick at the heel of the shuttle; thence it passes under a roller m in the upper
part of the shuttle, out over the top of the shuttle through the eyes n and groove p
directly to the needle, care being taken that the thread shall lie in the grooved
flange of the bobbin.. The tension device is on the bottom of the shuttle; it has
a stud with a nut h² and spring he for holding the disc h up against the bottom
of the shuttle. By referring to Figure 3 it will be seen that the guide nick k
leading to the grooved flange f of the bobbin stands slightly out of line with the
groove in the flange, and the guide nick ¹ under the roll m is out of line with the
same groove. When the thread is properly arranged the drawing of the same
through the grooved flange produces a sliglit friction on the bobbin to prevent its
spinning. This guide nick also serves the purpose of retaining the bobbin in its
place in the shuttle.
Working on a slide at the lower end of the needle bar H is a double pronged
vertical take-up L, see Figures 5, 5ª, and 6. This slide moves in a vertical groove
on the needle bar, and the take-up has a pin s projecting into a vertical slot t in the
bar. At the lower end of this slot is a short inclined slot t', as shown in Figure 11.
On the stud that pivots the take-up L to the slice v is a roller v*, around which fits
the lower forward end of a crank M pivoted to a projection on the needle bar. The
upper end of this crank is operated by a lever N pivoted on the plate G. This
lever receives its motion from a small double take-up cain o, firmly attached to the
shaft, and constructed like the needle bar cam E, E', the take-up lever being
provided with two slides and rollers w to bear against the edges of the said double
cam o. Figures 8, 9, 10, 11 illustrate the mechanism for operating the shuttle.
On turning the wheel c, as the needle reaches its full height, the shuttle becomes
rigid in the needle bar, and remains so until the needle has descended and reacted;
then the shuttle is loose in the needle bar. This alternate tight-and-loose motion
is produced by a vertical steady bar P that projects through the head of the arm B,
and against which the roller m in the shuttle rests. This steady bar swings upon a
screw pin through the head of the arm, and at its upper end has an eye that.
encircles the hub of the needle bar cam E, E, and at its extreme end it has a stud
and roller y; the latter rests against the back face of the said cam, and this face
having a groove or sunken track cut into and partially around it allows the roller
to drop into it to relax the pressure on the shuttle, the said roller being thrown
into the said groove or sunken track by a coiled spring Z arranged as shown in
Figure 10, and thrown out again to tighten the shuttle by the cam as the end of
the track or groove reaches the roller. The portion of the steady bar against which
the shuttle roll m bears is formed by letting into the said bar an adjustable wedge-
shaped piece R that can be raised and lowered by the set screw a¹ and adjusting
screw b, the object of this adjustment being to produce sufficient pressure on the
shuttle to retain it in its place firmly when the shuttle is tight.
Motion from the arm shaft D is communicated to the bed shaft S of the machine
by an intermediate leather rimmed gear wheel T, shewn detached and partly in
section in Figure 13. This wheel is hung upon a fixed stud e that will bring the
three gear wheels T, T³, and T², into the proper position to run together, or it may

page_text: be made adjustable to take up lost motion. The leather rim d' is shrunk upon its
iron centre d³, and held in position by screws passed through the flanges d³ that
cover it. The teeth are cut in the leather rim, and the noise of working is thereby
prevented or greatly diminished. Next to the gear wheel T2 on the lower shaft S is
a small cam V that operates the long feed shaft W by means of a swinging lever A¹,'
with a stud fat one end working in the groove on the cam, and the slide i at the
other end. The slide works through an adjustable grooved box m² provided with a
thumbscrew n¹ to regulate the length of the stitches. This mechanism is shewn in
elevation in Figures 7 and 7a.
"
The grooved box m¹ is attached to a ratchet lever B¹, which by the operation of a
pawl p and spring upon a ratchet wheel C¹ pinned upon the feed shaft W
produces a regular intermittent motion to the latter. Next to the ratchet wheel C¹
is an india-rubber faced friction wheel D¹ keyed or pinned to the feed shaft W, and
provided with a friction spring E2 fastened to the bed. The object of this wheel is
to prevent any back motion of the feed shaft. Next to the feed cam V on the lower
main shaft S is a double motion cam G¹, the construction of which is clearly shown
in Figure 2. A short lever 'H' swinging from a projection from the under side of
the bed is operated by this cam through a stud and roll s¹. The upper end of this
lever operates a short slide t¹ that works in a groove in the bed under the steel
throat plate. Projecting through this throat plate is a stud v¹attached to the
slide t; and to this stud is fastened by a screw a thin steel arm I¹ that extends to.
the end of the throat plate, and is bent or .curves at a right angle to its length;
this is called the beater arm. Fastened to it is an inclined piece w¹ that gives the
beater a downward motion by contact with the stud and roll x attached to the
throat plate. At the extreme end of the main lever shaft S is the main lever
cam J provided with a groove, from which by a stud and roll y¹ the stud or fork
lever attached to the bed is operated.
Working vertically through the throat plate is a bar L', shewn in Figures 6 and
12, it is fork shaped at its upper end Z, and on its upward motion the prongs ¹
pass on each side of the shuttle. This fork bar L' is operated by the fork lever k¹
having a slotted end in which works a roll a² attached to the fork lever. In front
of the said fork bar L' is a vertical grooved worm M', its lower end working on a
pivot attached to one of the caps of the fork bar, and its. upper end passing through'
the bed. This worm is operated by a pin b² attached to the fork bar. Outside of
the worin and attached to the bed is a guard or shield N¹. Secured to the upper
end of the worm and directly under the throat piece is the looper or hook O. The
end of the throat plate projecting beyond the bed has the needle hole, and fitting
against this is a cone-shaped hollow and flauged piece P¹ called the tip; this tip is
attached to a suitable supporting piece which is firmly fastened to the bed.
The feed mechanism is illustrated in Figures 15 to 19. At the extreme end of
the long feed shaft W is a small india-rubber faced wheel R¹, and driven by this"
wheel is a leather belt. T running to what is called the bed frame S₁, and giving.
motion to the feed clutch wheel V. This clutch wheel is placed loosely upon an
L shaped arm W¹, the vertical part of which is fastened in a socket A² on the frame
of the machine. On the front face of the clutch wheel V₁ are cut radial clutch.
teeth d², as shown in Figure 17, which when the levers B2 are closed upon the
tip P¹ engage in corresponding teeth in the rear end of the feed frame S', and cause
the said feed frame to revolve, the wheel being pressed against the said frame
by a spring e. The levers B2 are opened by means of the dog C2 and stirrup D²,
the latter has a projecting lug 2 to force the clutch wheel back when the levers.
are opened, and the wheel will then work loosely and will not rotate the feed
frame. Attached to the feed frame S¹ is a bent sliding bar G2 called a shifter, and
provided with a projecting handle, as shown in Figure 16. This shifter is used to
disengage the clutch wheel when it is necessary to turn the said feed frame by
hand while the levers are closed. At the extremity of the levers B2 are circular
steel jaws E3 which clasp the tip P¹ when closed.
To the end of the arm that supports the feed frame is attached a vertical levor H

page_text: with a spring m² and stop pin n². This lever is called the knee lever, and has a
shoulder or offset near its upper end against which the dog C² should rest when the
levers B2 are open. The height of the feed frame is regulated by a size gauge L²
attached to the arm W₁ and resting on the socket A². J2 is a check dog pivoted
on the back of the arm B, and operating against the wheel C to prevent the turning
of the same backwards.
Having properly threaded and placed the shuttle in position, and having drawn
enough thread from the spool to pass under the thread catch on the throat plate
and confine it, the button-hole is cut. Then having opened the jaws with the dog
resting on the knee lever the button-hole is pushed over the tip until the edges of
the hole come against the flange of the tip. Then with the left knee of the operator
the knee lever is operated, throwing the dog down and allowing the springs under
the jaw levers to quickly close the jaws upon the work, holding it firmly around
the tip. Now upon turning the wheel the needle descends through the cloth, the
shuttle being held firmly by the steady bar. The needle then reacts, throwing open
a loop which is caught by the looper and carried around its circumference, at the
same time the fork bar descends and its fork prongs or points pass below the thread
that is around the looper, and on the upward motion of the fork bar the loop is
taken by it on its prongs, lifted from the looper, and carried up to the top of the
shuttle which has now become loose in its socket in the needle bar, and deposits the
loop over the shuttle points. The upward motion of the needle bar now causes the
loop to pass freely over and finally out under the shuttle, assisted by the first
forward motion of the beater bar; at this moment the take-up swings into position
and draws down the loop to the work; at the same time the beater bar makes its
second and final motion, beating down the stitch firmly over the edge against the
pull or strain of the thread from the tension. All the after movements of the take-
up control the thread, keeping it properly straight and finally yielding up all slack
as the fork bar picks up the next stitch.
At each stitch the feed lever operates the ratchet wheel and feed shaft, and by
the belt communicates the proper length of stitch to the feed frame by revolving it.
The work is removed from the machine by opening the jaws and pulling it from
the tip and breaking the thread. Different sizes of tips are used for different sizes
of button holes.
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondents and the manner of performing the same, I wish it under-
stood that I claim, -
First. The double needle bar cam and the needle bar with rollers, constructed,
combined, and operating as above described and for the purpose set forth.
Second. The take-up pivoted to the slide and provided with the pin in com-
bination with the slotted needle bar as above described and for the purpose
specified.
Third. The combination of parts comprising the double cam, the lever. N with
rollers w, the forked elbow lever, the roller *, and the take-up device, as above
described and for the purpose specified.
Fourth. The pivoted steady bar provided with the adjustable wedge piece, the
roller y, and spring a, as above described and for the purpose specified.
Fifth. The shuttle constructed as described and provided with the guide nicks
arranged out of line with the grooved flange of the bobbin as above set forth and
for the purpose specified.
Sixth. The leather gear wheel constructed with the leather rim, metal hub, and
metal flanges as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Seventh. The combination of the feed cam, lever, slide, adjustable box, thumb-
screw, ratchet, and pawl, as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Eighth. The hollow flanged tip secured to a support upon the main frame of the
machine in combination with the clasping tips attached to the levers B², as above
described and for the purpose set forth.

page_text: Ninth. The combination of parts comprising the clutch wheel, the frame s¹, and
spring e, as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Tenth. The clutch shifter arranged on the frame S¹ in combination with the
clutch wheel U and spring, as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Eleventh. The size gauge on the arm W' in combination with the socket A³, as
above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Twelfth. The combination of parts comprising the knee lever, the spring m² and
strop n², the frame S¹, lever D2, and dog c², constructed and arranged as above set
forth and for the purposes herein specified.
Thirteenth. The roller m in the back of the shuttle in combination with the
steady bar and its wedge piece, as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Fourteenth. In combination with the needle bar and its shuttle and eye pointed
needle, the mechanism for holding the shuttle and needle firmly while the latter
passes through the cloth or other material and leaving it free to move when above
the cloth to allow the thread to pass around it, as above set forth.
Fifteenth. The beater bar, the wedge, the cam, the lever and stud, and roll, com-
bined and operating as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Sixteenth. The fork bar constructed and operating as above set forth and for the
purposes specified.
.
Seventeenth. The worm, the pin, and the looper, combined and operating as
above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Eighteenth. A button-hole sewing machine consisting of the parts constructed
and combined as shown in the accompanying Drawings, and operating together for
the purposes of this Invention, as above set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eleventh day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
W. ROB. LAKE. (L.S