An Improved Mode of Manufacturing Striped Knitted Fabrics.
Year: 1889

page_text: Dâte of Application, 25th Sept., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 25th June, 1890 Accepted, 16th Aug., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Mode of Manufacturing Striped Knitted Fabrics.
We JOHN WILLIAM LAMB, Manufacturer, and JAMES NOON, Framework Knitter,
both of Nottingham in the County of Nottingham do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to an improvements in the knitting of hosiery with longitudinal
or downright stripes, for which a Patent was obtained on the Sth December 1875,
No. 4260, by one of us, in conjunction with Samuel Lowe.
Wo now propose to produce these downright stripes in a zig-zag form automatically,
and for this purpose we prefer to use the mechanism patented by one of us in connection
with the said Samuel Lowe on the 7th December 1877, No. 4649.
In producing the downright stripes, the practice has been to traverse the striping
thread carriers alternately two needles to the right and two needles to the left, beyond
the width of stripe desired, in order to effect the junction of the stripe with the rest
of the fabric.
We now propose to give to the striping thread carriers, instead of this alternate
extension of the traverse of the thread carrier on opposite sides of the stripe, a
continuous traverse on one side of the stripe, until the required amount of deviation
is reached, and then to reverse the progressive traverse motion of the thread carriers,
and continue the same in the opposite direction for the same length of travel, and so
on, reversing the progressive travel as soon as the required deviation is reached.
To render the manner of working more clear, we will proceed to trace the progress
of the knitting, course by course, and we will afterwards explain the nature of the
mechanism for laying the threads upon the needles.
It should be remarked that the striping thread layers, in the patents above referred
to, are controlled by means of slides, which are automatically advanced and drawn
back after every course of work. It is a modification of this means which we now
employ, to produce the zig-zag stripe, so racking in and out the slides as to give the
thread layers the progressive motions desired.
Supposing the stripe is to be 2 needles in breadth, the slides will be shifted, say, to
the left (to make the overlap to the left), and on the return course, 4 needles will be
knitted, no overlay of the thread being made on the right hand. At the next course to
the left, needles are knitted, and an overlay on 2 joining needlos is made, representing
the progressive traverse desired.
At the return course to the right, 4 needles are knitted, but no overlay is made.
At the next course, 4 needles are knitted, and an overlay of two needles is again made
on the left.
In this way, the pattern stripe is shifted laterally two needles to the left at each
alternate course, until the required amount of deviation is reached. The slides will
then he racked in the opposite direction; to shift the progressive motion of the thread
carriers to the right, until the requirements of the zigzag pattern in that direction are
reached. The racking of the slides will be again reversed, and so on until the zigzag
stripe is completed.
The slides are racked in and out, as required, by a train of gear wheels, which
impart an axial motion to the traversing screws of the slides. This gearing is operated
by double ratchet wheels worked by reversing pawls, a shifting shield being interposed
between ithe pawls and the ratchet wheel, to control the action of the pawls. The
pawls are carried by rock levers, which are actuated by cams on the cam shaft.
The shield, which is concentric with the ratchet wheel, serves the purpose of holding
out of gear one or other of the pawls, or both of them, according to the work in
hand, and its motion for this purpose is controlled by a suitably arranged counting,
chain of tappets which actuate rock levers connected with the shield.

page_text: In place of this automatic arrangement of mechanism for producing the zigzag
stripe, we may provide for the shogging of the bowles on or off the cams which
actuate the pawls of the ratchet wheels, and thus arrest or reverse the action of
the pawls, and consequently of the traversing screws of the slides, in the manner.
common in, automatic knitting machinery, a counting wheel being provided for
timing the movement of the bowles.
Dated this 25th day of Santamban 1000
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Mode of Manufacturing Striped Knitted Fabrics.
We, JOHN WILLIAM Lamn, Manufacturer, and JAMES NOON, Framework Knitter,
both of Nottingham in the County of Nottingham, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to an improvement in the knitting of hosiery with longitudinal
or downright stripes, for which a patent was obtained on the 8th December 1875,
No. 4260, by one of us, in conjunction with Samuel Lowe.
We now propose to produce these downright stripes in a zig-zag form automatically,
and for this purpose we prefer to use mechanism of the same character as that
Jatented by one of us in connection with the said Samuel Lowe on the 7th December
1877, No. 4649.
In producing the downright stripes, the practice has been to traverse the striping
thread carriers alternately two needles to the right and two needles to the left, beyond
the width of stripe desired, in order to effect the junction of the stripe with the rest
of the fabric.
We now propose to give to the striping thread carriers, instead of this uniform alternate
extension of the traverse on opposite sides of the stripe, a continuous traverse on one
side of the stripe, until the required amount of deviation is reached, and then to
reverse the progressive traverse motion of the thread carriers, and continue the same
on the opposite direction for the same length of travel, and so on, reversing the pro-
gressive travel as soon as the required deviation is reached. Or we may give the
striping or pattern thread carriers a continuous extension of traverse on both sides of
the stripe, until the required, amount of deviation is reached, and then gradually
contract the traverse until the normal length of traverse is regained.
To render the manner of working more clear, we will proceed to trace the progress
of the knitting, course by course, and we will afterwards explain the nature of the
mechanism for laying the threads in the desired manner upon the needles.
It should be remarked that the striping thread carriers in the patents above referred
to, are controlled by means of stop slides, which are automatically advanced and
drawn back after every course of work. It is a modification of this means which wo
now employ, to produce the irregular stripe, so racking in and out the pattern, and
certain other stops, as to give the several thread carriers the progressive motions
required.
Suppose it is desired to produce a zig-zag stripe, say, 2 needles in breadth, the
striping slides will be shifted (say) to the left, to make the overlap to the left, and on
the return course, 4 needles will be knitted, no overlay of the thread being made on
the right hand. At the next course to the left, 4 needles are knitted, and an overlay
on 2 joining needles is made, representing the progressive traverse desired.
At the return course to the right, 4 needles are knitted, but no overlay is made.
At the next course, 4 needles are knitted, and an overlay of two necedles is again
made on the left.
In this way, the pattern stripe is shifted laterally two needles to the left, at each
alternate course, until the required amount of deviation is reached. The slides. will
then be racked in the opposite direction, to shift the progressive motion of the thread

page_text: carriers to the right, until the requirements of the zig-zag pattern in that direction are
reached. The racking of the slides will now again be reversed, and so on until the
zig-zag stripe is completed.
The slides are racked in and out, as required, by a train of gear wheels, which impart
an axial motion to the traversing screws of the slides, as will be hereafter explained.
In the accompanying drawings: Fig. 1 is a transverse sectional elevation of a
portion of the upper part of a cotton knitting machine, shewing our new arrangement
of supplementary thread carrier bars, and the mechanism for driving the same.
Fig. 2 is a partial end elevation of the same portion of the machine, illustrating thế
Estop mechanism for the supplementary bars.
Fig. 3 is a plan view of a portion of the right hand end of the machine, shewing
one division with its thread carriers and carrier bars, the pattern and narrowing slides,
and the stops which they carry, and Fig. 3ª is a similar view of the slides and
stops at the left hand end of the machine.
Fig. is a partial front elevation of the right hand end of the machine, shewing
the mechanism for automatically racking in and out the slides carrying the stops.
Fig. 5 is a partial end elevation of the same.
Fig. 6 is a front view of a central portion of the mechanism, shewing the counting
wheel, and the means for governing the pattern-slide racking mechanism at opposite
sides of the machine.
Fig. 7 shews in side view the draw cam which is designed to give an extra motion
to the thread carriers for laying the thread on the joining needles.
Fig. S is a diagram illustrating the knitting of a zig-zag stripe course by course; and
Fig. 9 is a similar diagram of the knitting of a modified form of stripe.
As the knitting mechanism which we employ is very similar to that shewn in
the specification drawings of the patent of 1877 above referred to, and is in all
respects, except the striping mechanism; like the cotton machinery in common use
in the hosiery trade, we shall limit the detailed description of the drawings to the
mechanism designed for producing the irregular striping, referring merely by letters
to the parts cominon to the ordinary cotton machine.
I
a, Fig. 1, are the needles, a' the sinkers, c c are the thread carriers. A is the
slur bar, upon which slides the slur box B. C. Figs. 3 and 3ª are the narrowing
slides, mounted on brackets D forming part of the main framing. E, Figs. 4 & 5,
is the cam shaft, from which all the motions for the working parts of the machine
are derived. F. F are the striping or pattern slides mounted on the brackets D. .
The slides C. are fitted with automatically adjusted stops, as usual, and the
pattern slides F, F carry stops G, G₁ which control the movements of
the supplementary thread carrier bars, and also stops H H', which control
the inward movements of the ordinary cotton thread carrier bars. These
last mentioned bars are numbered 1 and 2, and the numbers 3, 4 and 5 indicate
three supplementary thread carrier bars, 3 and 4 serving to lay the thread for the
stripes, and 5 to lay the thread for the intermediate portion of the fabric. The
several thread carrier bars 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, are driven by friction from the slur
box B, two friction boxes on the slur box serving, as usual, to operate the bars 1
and 2, and two other friction boxes for operating the bars 3 and 4, after the manner
described in a patent granted to Lamb & Lowe dated 1 November 1878, No. 4421.
b, Fig. 3, shows one of the two bars which receive motion from the slur box, and
communicate the same to the thread carrier bars 3 and 4. Standing up from these
bars b, are standards &', from each of which projects a finger b², that enters a forked
projection fitted to the bars 3. 4. These fingers are capable of being slidden up
out of gear with their respective forks, to throw the carrier bars out of action.
For operating the thread carrier bar 5, the slur box B is fitted with a standard i³,
which carries, at its upper end, a finger, that enters a fork projecting from a
friction box which embraces the thread carrier bar 5.
We have said that the stops G G which control the supplementary thread
carrier, bars, are mounted on the pattern slides F F¹, and that the same slides, also'
carry the stops H H¹, which control the inward movement of the ordinary cotton

page_text: thread. carrier bars. These stops, consist of brackets: fitted with adjustable screws,
the heads of which arrest the, movements of the bars, to limit the notions of the
thread carriers. The screws of the stops G G serve to control the bars 3; 4, and 5;
and they are so arranged that the heads of the screws for operating on the bars 3, 4
face inwards, while the heads of the screws fo controlling the bar 5, face outwards.
In like manner, the heads of the screws fitted to thic stops H H face outwards, in
order that the bar 1 may be arrested by the stop H on the right hand side of the
machine, while moving with the striping thread carrier bars to the left, and the bar 2
may be arrested by the stop H on the left hand side of the machine, while moving. to
the right with the striping thread carrier-bars.
=
1
The object of this arrangement will be clearly understood when the knitting
operation is explained with reference to the diagrams Figs. 8 and 9.
The slides C. Cand F Fare fitted, as usual, with traversing screws, which are
actuated by spur gearing. The gearing for the slides F F is illustrated by dots in
Fig. 5, which shews also the mechanism for imparting motion to the slide F in opposite
directions, for the purpose of giving to the stops carried. by that slide, a traverse.
motion in opposite directions. A duplication of this mechanism is employed for
working the slide F, Fig. 3, at the opposite end of the machine.
I, Figs. 4 and 5, is a horizontal shift, which turns in bearings in the framing.
Upon this shaft are keyed two ratchet wheels their teeth being reversed, to
receive driving pawls on opposite sides of these wheels, for the purpose of
imparting rotary motion in opposite directions to the shaft 1. Keyed to this shaft is:
aspur wheel, which gears into the train of spur wheels connected with the
traversing screw of the slide F. As, therefore, rotary motion is imparted to the
shaft I in either direction, a corresponding traverse motion will be given to the slide F.
and the several stops which it carries: is a segment shaped shifting shield mounted
on the axle I. This shield is interposed between the ratchet wheels and the
pawls for the purpose of controlling the action of the pawls, and throwing one.
or other, or both, out of contact with their respective ratchet wheels. The pawls are.
pivotted to a rock lever I fulcrummed on the frame of the machine, and carrying a
bowl which rests upon a cam 13 on the cam shaft E. The rotation, therefore, of this
shaft, will cause the can, through the lever 12 to lift and lower the pawls, and thereby
effect the rotation of the shaft 1. To provide for the proper action of these pawls, or
to ensure their inaction, the segment shield I receives an axial motion from a tappet
chain 1 on the counting apparatus. This shield is connected by a link to an arm
of a rock shaft I having its bearing in the main framing. A shorter arm of this.
rock shaft connects, by a link, with a rock lever I', fulcrummed on the frame of the
machine, and bearing, at its front end, on the travelling tappet chain 14. As, there-.
fore, the tappets pass under this rock lever, the position of the segment.shield will be
shifted according to the requirements of the work in hand, lifting the pawlor.
from its ratchet wheel, and allowing the other pawl to act upon its wheel, and impart.
an axial motion to the shaft I, and so to the traversing screw of the slide F. Or the
shild will be shifted to an intermediate position, so as to throw both pawls out of
action, and thus provide for the momentary quiescence of the slides.
The tappet chain I is provided with 2 sets of tappets, which have such relation to
each other, as to enable the slide F to move in exact correspondence with the slide. F,
and thus shift the position of, or contract or enlarge (as the case may be) the traverso
of the supplementary carrier bars 3, 4, and 5, and the inward movement of the thread
carrier bars 1, 2.
Fig. 6 shews two rock levers 1 [**, as hearing on the tappet chain, the lever I**.
forming a portion of the mechanism for driving the spur gearing of the slide F
which mechanism is a duplication of that just described for actuating the gearing of
the slide F.
For the purpose of overlaying the joining needles where required, we use, in place
of the mechanism hitherto employed, a modified, form of the draw.cam, as shewn
at K, Fig. 7, which modification.consists in the extension of the cam face beyond the
point (which indicates the end of the traverse of the slur box), making-it

page_text: concentric for a short distance; so as to obtain a dwell, and then giving it a slight
incline to produce the overlay of the joining needles. This draw cam, as is well
understood, acts through the sliding bar K³, to impart a to and fro motion to the slur-
box B, Fig. 1. The extension, therefore, of the can surface beyond the point *, will
ensure the requisite dwell for the slur box, and its subsequent further movement, to
produce the above mentioned result.
"
"
Referring now to the diagram Fig. 8, the vertical lines of which represent one
division of needles, we will proceed to explain the course of knitting to produce
two zig-zag stripes in, say, the leg of a hose.
7
On commencing this work, the thread carriers bars are arranged as shewn on the
plan views figures 3 & 3", that is to say, all the thread carriers are brought to the
right hand side of their respective portions of the division. They are now simul-
taneously moved to the left, to lay the thread for the first course of striped work.
After this traverse, and during the knitting of the work, the striping slides F F are
moved further to the left, to the extent of 2 needles. The motion of the thread
carriers is then reversed, to lay thread for the 2nd course. During the knitting of
this course, the slides FF remain stationary, and during the knitting of the third
course, the slides are again moved to the left. While the 4th course is being knitted;
no movement of the striping slides takes place, and this order of working may be
continued so long as the deviation of the stripe to the left hand is required.
Suppose, for example, the knitting is carried on
changing the direction of the stripe, and the slides to the 11th course before
are moved to the left during
the knitting of that course, then, to reverse the direction of the inclined stripe during
the knitting of the succeeding course (the 12th), the striping slides will be moved to the
right hand. At the next course (the 13th), the slides will remain stationary, and
will be again moved to the right hand at the 14th course, and so on at every other
course, as long as the deviation to the right is required to continue.
It will be understood that the traverse of the intermediate and outer thread carriers
up to the edges of the stripes being governed by stops carried by the slides F F', will
of necessity have their traverse lengthened or shortened in such a way as to lay
thread for the joining needles of the stripes at both edges of the same. Thus, the
joining needles will be alternately supplied with a thread from the intermediate or
outer carrier, and a thread from the striping carrier, and the needles in the "division"
will be supplied with one thread only at every traverse of the thread carriers for a
new course of work.
From the foregoing explanation, it will be understood that the progress of the
stripe, may be continued to any desired length through the work. If, however, it is
desired to stop the striping, and to carry on plain knitting beyond the stripe, the
thread carrier bars not required for further use, are to be locked out in the usual way.
Diagram Fig. 9 shows a mode of working to produce a variation in the form of the
stripe, giving it a gradual increase in width from both sides of the stripe, until the
maximum width is attained, & then a gradual decrease in width until the normal
width of the stripe is reached. By this course of working, varieties of patterns
within circumscribed limits may be produced, and thus a distinctive character may be
given to the work.
The vertical lines in the diagram Fig. 9 represent the needles of one "division,"
and the horizontal lines the courses of work; the normal width of the stripe being
equal to 2 needles, with a lap on two joining needles, but on opposite sides at each
course. To produce the work indicated in Fig. 9, the machine has its striping slidės
arranged to provide for a traverse equal to four needles for the striping thread
carrier bars, and both slides are simultaneously moved at the knitting two needles to
the right, when the traverse of the carriers is to the right, and two needles to the
left, when the traverse is to the left, as long as the downright stripe is required.
A diamond or lozenge shaped extension of a two needle stripe shewn in the
diagram is formed by 7 courses in the following manner:-
The right and left hand slides are simultaneously moved outwards to the extent of
2 needles, and thus a traverse of the striping thread carriers is correspondingly

page_text: -extended, so that at the next course, say, to the right, S needles may be overlaid
with thread instead of 4. When this course (the 1st of the diamond or lozenge
shaped figure) is knitted, both slides will be again moved 2 needles in opposite
directions, as before, so that, for the second course of the figure, thread will be laid
to the left over 12 needles. When this course is being knitted, the slides will be
again simultaneously moved out, the further to increase the width of the figure, and,
for the 3rd course (to the right); 16 needles will be supplied with thread. The limit
required by the pattern being now, reached, bothe slides will, during the knitting of
this course, be racked in the same direction two needles to the left. The right hand
slide will carry in the carriers which it has served to stop. On the knitting of this,
the 4th course, both slides will be moved in, the left hand slide, say, carrying with it
inwards the carrier bars which it has served to stop the extent of two needles, so that
at the next course, 12 needles will be supplied with thread. While this course is
being knitted, both slides will be again moved inwards, the right hand slide carrying
-onwards with it the carrier, bars it has stopped, and, at the succeeding course,
8 needles will be supplied with thread.
+
While knitting this course, the slides will be again simultaneously moved inwards,
and the left hand slide will carry in the carrier bars, so that at the 7th course, four
needles only will be supplied with thread, to resume the knitting of the normal width
of stripe. At the knitting of this course, the right hand slide will be moved out, to
.allow thread to be laid upon the joining needles, the left band slide at the same time
.moving inwards. The simultaneous moving of the slides alternately to the right and
left, at the time of the knitting of each course, can now be continued as long as a
straight stripe of two needles in width with the joining needles is desired. to be
.knitted.
The traverse of the thread carriers for laying the thread for the fabric intermediate
of the colored stripe or figure pattern, and also of the selvage thread carriers on their
inward movement, being governed by stops on the striping slides, as above explained,
will be limited as the colored stripe or figure increases in width, and lengthened as
the stripe or figure decreases in width. The outer traverse of the selvage carrier
bars, it will be understood, is governed, as usual, by the stops of the narrowing
.slides.
Having now particularly described & ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion & in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
-claim is:
The mode above described of producing irregular striping in knitted fabrics, such
mode consisting in controlling the thread carriers by the use of the pattern, slides, to
which a progressive motion is imparted either in the same or in opposite directions,
for the purpose of shifting the field of traverse of the carriers which such slides
control, or of enlarging and contracting the length of traverse of the thread carriers,
as & for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 25th day of June 1890.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicants.