Improvements in Button-hole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1890

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by EDWARD BLACKFAN MOORE, of 37, Church
Street, West Chester, Pennsylvania, United States of America, Printer.]
Improvements in Button-hole Sewing Machines.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE of the firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent
Agents, 45 Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention has for its object the simplification and improvement of the class
of machines to which it belongs. In the accompanying drawings forming part of
the Specification I have illustrated my improvement as embodied in a machine and
combined with its various operative parts in the way which I believe will be found
to be best adapted for use; and in the claims I have clearly pointed out those
features of the machine so shown which are new with me, and which I desire to
protect by Letters Patent.
Reference now being had to the drawings,
Figure 1, Plate 1, is a plan view of the under side of the feed-slide.
Figure 2, Plate 1, is a sectional view of the feed-slide and disk with movable
tooth dropped and in engagement with feed-cam or sectional part of worm.
Figure 3, Plate 1, is a sectional side view of disk with pivoted tooth 4 resting
upon plate 10 and elevated above feed-cam or sectional part of worm.
Figures 29, 30 and 31, Plate 1, are sectional diagrams of throat-plate 21 and
loop-destroying finger 53 in combination with upper and lower needles A' and A².
Figure 32, Plate 1, is a perspective view of cam and lever for operating loop-
destroying finger 53.
at
Figure 33, Plate 1, is a side elevation of lower needle A².
Figure 34, Plate 1, is an end elevation of lower needle A².
Figures 4 and 5, Plate 2, are sectional side views of under side of machine as
w, w, Figure 9.
Figure 6, Plate 2, is a sectional side view of under side of machine as at xx,
Figure 9.
Figure 7, Plate 2, is a sectional end view of feed-block 98, with side
bearings 100-100.
Figure 8, Plate 2, is a sectional side view of under side of machine as at y y,
Figure 9.
Figure 9, Plate 3, is a plan view of under side of machine.
Figure 10, Plate 4, is a plan view of a part of the machine with feed-slide
removed.
Figure 11, Plate 4, is a perspective view of throat-plate 21 and its support.
Figure 12, Plate 4, is a perspective view of grooved block 57 1-2 in which is
operated lower needle-carrier.
Figure 13, Plate 4, is a sectional perspective view of the needle-carrier 62,
needle-holder 70, and carrier-lever or arm 65.
Figure 14, Plate 4, is a sectional perspective view of one end of lever-arm 65,
ball-joint 73, for operating lower needle-carrier 62.
Figure 15, Plate 4, is a view of side cam 63 for vibrating block 57 1-2 in which
is operated lower needle-carrier 62.
Figures 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, and 24, Plate 5, are perspective views of
mechanisms connected with feed and trip-motions.
Figure 25, Plate 5, is a rear view of the end of arm of machine.
Figure 26, Plate 6, is an end view of the head of machine.

page_text: Figure 27, Plate 6, is a skeleton side view of machine showing pivoted block 130
for carrying knife 130 1-2, lever-arm 137, block 138, wedge 134, and anvil 136.
The following descriptions and references will more fully explain the purposes of
the several parts and their relations to each other.
Figure 1, Plate 1, shows the lower side of the feed-plate or slide; 2 is a rotating
disk which carries an ordinary clamp (not shown in the drawings) for holding
fabrics while being stitched; 3 is a segmental rack fastened to under side of disk 2
by screws a a¹ (see Figs. 1, 2, and 3, Plate 1; and Fig. 9, Plate 3); 4 is a
movable tooth in segmental rack 3, pivoted at a² (see Figs. 2 and 3, Plate 1; and
Fig. 9, Plate 3); 5 is a steady pin fastened to disk 2 and working in slot 5' in said
pivoted tooth 4; 6 6 are the side bearings for pivoted tooth 4; 7 (see Figs. 2 and 3,
Plate 1) is a projection on pivoted tooth 4, the purpose of which will be stated
hereafter 8 is a depressing rod fastened to inner end of pivoted tooth 4 at 8¹, and
which extends above the surface of disk 2 (see Figs. 2 and 3, Plate 1); 9 is a
spiral spring carried on depressing rod 8, and which tends to depress the end of
pivoted tooth 4 that engages with feed cam or sectional part of worm 11 (see
Figs. 2 and 3, Plate 1). The necessity for these several parts may be further
explained as follows: When feed-slide is in position and being fed forward in the
process of stitching the first straight side of a button-hole, it is necessary that
pivoted tooth 4 shall be held above the outer periphery of feed-cam or sectional
part of worm 11. This is accomplished by means of plate 10 as shown in Figure 3,
Plate 1; but as soon as the heel of pivoted tooth 4 is fed over the end of Plate 10,
it is forced down by the action of spring 9, carried on rod 8, and is at once
engaged by feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11 as shown in Figure 2, Plate 1;
and by this means disk 2 is given its first movement of rotation, the feed-cam
being thrown into engagement with the teeth of the rack so that the disk is
intermittently turned the distance required for cach stitch at cach revolution of
said feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11, carried on main shaft B, in stitching
the round end of the eye of the button-hole. When the stitching of the button-
hole is fully completed, disk 2 is turned by the operator, rod 8 is then pressed
back which raises movable tooth 4 up to the level of plate 10, and feed-slide 1 is
drawn back to its initial position for the commencement of a new button-hole.
12 is a sectional flange extending around the outer periphery of segmental rack 3
(see Figs. 1 and 2, Plate 1); 13 is an adjustable pin in arm 14 1-2 of rock-
shaft 14 (see Fig. 10, Plate 4; Fig. 8, Plate 2; and Fig. 16, Plate 5); as the
feed-slide moves forward, flange 12 on segmental rack 3 comes in contact with
adjustable pin 13 and rock-shaft 14 is slightly turned, and by which action pawl 18
is lifted out of ratchet-wheel 17 by arm 19 of rock-shaft 14, and thus the forward
movement of feed-slide 1 is suspended while disk 2 is being turned and the round
end of the eye of the button-hole is stitched (see Fig. 8, Plate 2); at the instant
the turning of disk 2 is completed, adjustable pin 13 drops off the end of sectional
flange 12, and pawl 18 is at once restored to contact with ratchet-wheel 17 as
shown in Figure 16, Plate 5; and feed-slide 1 moves on in stitching the last
straight side of the button-hole. The general principles of raising the pawl out of
the ratchet-wheel during the process of stitching the round end of the eye of the
button-hole, including Hange 12, are embraced in Patent No. 12,021 issued to
Edward Blackfan Moore, George Rehfuss and Martin O. Rehfuss, September 21,
1886, by the Kingdom of Great Britain.
bare friction plates bearing upon the edges of under side of disk 2, and
fastened to under side of feed-slide 1 by screws ccc; 20 (Plate 1, Fig. 1)
is a slot or opening in disk 2 and feed-slide 1 for passage of centre or throat-
plate 21, as feed-slide 1 is moved forward and backwards in the several operations
of clamping and cutting the material and stitching the button-hole; 21 is the
throat or centre plate, through which the needles pass in their upward and down-
ward movements (see Fig. 11, Plate 4; and Fig. 9, Plate 3; also Figs. 29, 30
and 31, Plate 1); 22 is a guide-plate fastened to the under side of feed-slide 1 by
screws d d d d 23 is a slot in said guide-plate in which pin 24, carrying roller c¹

page_text: passes as the button-hole is being stitched (see Fig. 10, Plate 4); 25, 25 are male
and female shoes fastened to guide-plate 22, and forming part of the guide-slot and
by means of which the size and shape of ench button-hole is controlled as explained
in the Patent issued to E. B. Moore, George Rehfuss and M. O. Rehfuss
September 21, 1886, No. 12,021 by the Kingdom of Great Britain. 26 is a
straight feed-rack pivoted to feed-slide 1 at 27 and rests in a milled groove or
recess 28 in said feed-slide 1 (see Fig. 1, Plate 1); 29 is a movable rod carried in
slotted bearing 30, fastened to under side of feed-slide 1 (see Fig. 1, Plate 1);
31 is a coiled wire spring fastened to feed-slide by screw which presses rod 29
forward in the direction of side bearing Q of bed-plate A, on which bearings QQ
feed-slide rests (see Fig. 10, Plate 4); 32 and 33 are notches cut in one of the
side bearings Q, on bed-plate A. (see Fig. 10, Plate 4); notch 32 is simply to make
room for movable rod 29 when feed-slide is placed in position on bearings Q Q;
when feed-slide 1 reaches the point where the round end of the eye of the button-
hole is made, pawl 18 is lifted from ratchet-wheel 17 by the joint influence of
adjustable pin 13, flange 12 on segmental rack 3, and rock-shaft 14, and feed-
slide 1 stops feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11 at this point engages with
movable tooth 4, of segmental rack 3, and the initial rotating movement is imparted
to disk 2; to hold feed-slide 1 steady during the process of turning disk 2, rod 29
enters notch 33 on bed-plate A. and prevents any forward movement of slide 1 under
the action of feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11; 34 is a pin on the end of
rod 29 on the last movement of disk 2, under the action of feed-cam or sectional
part of worm 11, in the process of stitching the round end of the eye of the button-
hole, projection 7 on movable tooth 4, in segmental rack 3, comes in contact with
pin 34 on the end of rod 29, and by this means rod 29 is forced out of notch 33 in
bed-plate A and feed-slide 1 is again permitted to move forward in stitching the
last side of the button-hole.
Figure 17, Plate 5, shows rod 36 with right and left-hand screw threads OO cut
thereon and carrying two movable blocks 37 and 38; these two blocks 37 and 38
extend both above and beneath bed-plate A through slots P P (see Figure 10,
Plate 4 and Fig. 6, Plate 2); block 37 has a beveled edge as shown in
Figure 17, Plate 5, and Figure 10, Plate 4 blocks 37 and 38 serve as stop-motions
for controlling the beginning and ending of the stitching in each button-hole, and
likewise the length of the same. By turning rod 36 the two blocks 37 and 38 are
drawn together or carried apart according to the desired length of button-hole;
35 as shown in Figure 1, Plate 1, and Figures 22, 23 and 24, Plate 5, is a projection
or lug fastened to upper side of feed-slide 1 and extending over the edge of same;
after the fabric has been clamped and cut for the button-hole, feed-slide 1 is pushed
forward until lug 35 comes in contact with block 37 carried on rod 36 as shown in
Figure 22, Plate 5. The distance the feed-slide is permitted to move forward until
lug 35 comes in contact with block 37 controls the beginning of the stitching in the
desired length of button-hole; and this distance is regulated by the operator
moving block 37 on rod 36 by means of screw O. When the machine is thrown
into gear by the operator pressing upon trip-rod D carrying button D' (see Figs. 4
and 5, Plate 2) which is pivoted to trip-lever 83 at a" by pin a, (see Figs. 4 and 5,
Plate 2), lever 40, by its incline 40 1-2 (see Fig. 19, Plate 5) is oscillated;
lever 40, which is pivoted to bed-plate A by stud and screw 41 1-2 (see Fig. 6,
Plate 2) in turn oscillates or moves block 37 out of line of lug 35, as shown in
Figure 23, Plate 5, and thus feed-slide 1 is permitted to move forward until lug 35
on feed-slide 1 reaches block 38 as shown in Figure 24, Plate 5; block 38 is
pushed over by the pressure of lug 35; by this action the lower end of block 38 is
made to press against lever 41; lever 41 in turn presses against trigger or trip 42,
as shown in Figure 20, Plate 5, and Figures 4 and 5, Plate 2, forcing it off its
resting point on bed-plate A at S, and thus tripping and stopping the machine by
the action of the stop-motion. Spring 39 attached to block 37 (see Fig. 17,
Plate 5) restores block 37 to its upright position as soon as the machine is tripped

page_text: and stopped; but the beveled edge on block 37 permits lug 35 to push it over and
pass when feed-slide 1 is brought back to its initial position after each button-hole
has been stitched; 11 is what is known in mechanisins as a feed-cam or sectional
part of worm carried on main shaft B (see Figs. 2 and 3, Plate 1 and Fig. 9,
Plate 3 and Fig. 10, Plate 4); a portion of said feed-cam is cut away as shown
in Figure 8, Plate 2, and Figure 9, Plate 3, to give it intermittent engagement
with segmental rack 3, and to enable disk 2 to be turned and brought back to its
initial position after the stitching of each button-hole has been completed, and
therefore may be properly called a feed-cam or sectional part of worm.
The feed-cam gears in segmental-rack 3 fastened to under side of disk 2, and
intermittently turns disk 2 after each stitch has been completed in stitching the
round end of the eye of the button-hole. A curvature a in the flange or blade of
feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11, as shown in Figure 9, Plate 3, turns disk 2,
and at the same time controls the distance of each intermittent turn of said disk 2
at each revolution of shaft B and as each stitch is made in the round end or eye of
the button-hole; the other portion of the blade or flange of said feed-cam or
sectional part of worm 11, is straight and serves to lock and hold said disk 2 steady
after each intermittent movement has been made by the action of feed-cam or
sectional part of worm 1.1. 43 is a projection on bed-plate A. having screw 44 (see
Figs. 6 and 8. Plate 2); the object of screw 44 is to control the quantity of cloth
embraced inside the radial line of action of the needle A in stitching the round
end of the eye of the button-hole. In heavy materials a less quantity is needed
inside the line of action of the needle than where the material is light and screw 44
serves to regulate this at the will of the operator when cutting the hole in the
fabric when feed-slide 1 is pulled back to cut the hole in the material, lug 35
fastened to feed-slide 1, comes in contact with the end of screw 44 by lengthening
or shortening this screw the quantity of material left inside the radial action of the
needle can be regulated; in other words, the further back the slide is permitted to
come the more material there will be between the line of action of the needle and
the edge of the cut, and vice versa.
:
Figure 10, Plate 4, is a view of the upper side of bed-plate A. with feed-slide
removed 16 is a plate to which the centre or throat-plate 21 is fastened, and is
held in place by screws iiii; 10 is a small plate fastened to support 16 of throat-
plate 21 and by means of which pivoted tooth 4 of segmental rack 3 is held above
the outer periphery of feed-cam or sectional part of worm 11, while the slide is
being fed forward in stitching the first straight side of the button-hole (see Fig. 3,
Plate 1). 10 1-2 is a projection or elevation on the side of plate 10, against the
side of which pivoted tooth 4 of segmental rack 3 presses when the fabric is being
cut, preventing disk 2 from turning and thereby securing a straight cut in the
fabric 24 is a stud carrying roller that works in slot 23 in feed-guide 22
fastened to the under side of feed-slide 1, and thus controls and gives direction to
the latter (see Plate 1, Fig. 1); 24 1-2 is an adjustable slide with beveled edges
to which stud 24 carrying roller c (see Fig. 10, Plate 4) is fastened; this slide is
held between two beveled pieces 45, 45 fastened to bed-plate A by screws h h h h;
g is a set screw for holding adjustable slide 24 1-2 in place; 46 is an adjustable
slide working in beveled bearings 47, 47 on bed-plate A (see Fig. 10, Plate 4);
48 is a swiveled guide or bearing fastened to slide 46 by screw 49; 50 is a set
screw in slide 46; 50 1-2 a swiveled guide or bearing fastened to bed-plate A by
screw 51. These two swiveled guides or bearings 48 and 50 1-2 enter grooves EE
(see Fig. 1, Plate 1) on sides of feed-slide 1, and hold it in place; the slide 1
therefore rests on the bearings QQ and is grasped between the swiveling guides 48
and 50 1-2, its angular position being governed by the slot in guide plate 22 and
the shoes 25, 25 which are attached to said plate and between which the pin 24
projects. The slide 1 is kept in operative engagement with the gear-wheel 57
irrespective of any change in its angular position by the device of pivoting the
rack 26 at one end, as shown, and allowing it to turn freely on said pivot. In

page_text: way ՆՈՆ
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the same angmer irrespective of the
change in the angular position of the slide to which it is pivoted and which it
draws forward.
Figure 12, Plate 4, is a perspective view of vibrating block 57 1-2 having
grooves 58 and 59 on opposite sides of said block; needle-carrier 62 is operated in
groove 58 block 57 1-2 is swiveled to bed-plate A at 61 (see Fig. 9, Plate 3);
on its opposite end is a stud carrying roller 60 1-2 which works in groove 61 1-2
of cam 63, the object of which is to vibrate block 57 1-2 and by which means to
place the lower needle on one side of the upper needle when they are above the
bed-plate and on the opposite side thereof when they are below the bed-plate. The
vibration of block 57 1-2 is an improvement made since the granting of Letters
Patent No. 12021 by the Kingdom of Great Britain to E. B. Moore, George
Rehfuss, and M. O. Rehfuss September 21st, 1886. In the Specification accom-
panying that Application this block is described as being rigidly fastened to bed-
plate A. To enable me to vibrate this block a special lower needle, curved, both
vertically and laterally has been provided as herein described.
e
Figure 33, Plate 1, represents the special lower needle used upon this machine;
(Fig. 33) represents the general vertical curvature of said needle; y the shank,
and the eye; e (Fig. 34, Plate 1) represents the lateral or side curvature; and d
the bent point. The lateral or side curvature begins at the inner end of shank
and gradually deepens until the middle of the needle is approximately reached, and
from thence gradually decreasing in depth until the eye d is approximately reached,
said eyed being practically in line with the axis of shank g.
This needle is applicable only to that class of sewing machines that make what
is known as an overseaming stitch. The stitch is formed by the combined action of
two needles, one of which is straight and is fastened to an ordinary needle-bar
carried on the arm of the machine while the lower needle is curved and is fastened
to a suitable carrier located beneath the bed-plate. The upper or straight needle
passes through the fabric while the lower or curved needle passes over the edge of
the fabric. Each needle alternately passes through the thread-loop thrown out by
the other. The upper needle passes through the thread loop of the lower needle
when they are above the bed-plate, and the lower needle through that of the upper
needle when they are beneath the bed-plate.
1 am aware that in all sewing machines for making overseaming button-holes, it
has been customary to use an ordinary straight needle carrying a thread, and
operated above the throat-plate, in combination with a curved needle carrying a
thread and operated below the bed-plate; but such needles have been circular in
form and it has always been found necessary to employ a thread loop spreader
either above or beneath the cloth-plate to enable the two needles to pass through
the thread loops formed by each respectively. The peculiar shape of the needle
invented by me, in connection with other mechanisms, enables me to dispense with
the usual thread loop spreader altogether.
When the stitching is completed and the machine stopped the point of the lower
needle is still projecting through the loop thread of the upper needle as shown in
Figure 30, Plate 1. When the thread of the upper needle is cut, and the material
removed, the thread loop of the upper needle would necessarily slip off the point of
the lower needle, and thus remain with the fabric. In that condition, if the cut
thread of the upper needle was pulled, the sewing would ravel, and the button-hole
be destroyed. To destroy this loop at the completion of the stitching of each
button-hole, and by this means render the stitching secure, I have adopted the
following device and which I have denominated a 66 a loop-destroying finger."
21 is the throat-plate (see Figs. 29, 30 and 31, Plate 1); 52 is a bridge on the side
of throat-plate 21; 52 1-2 is a slot or opening in bridge 52; 53 is a wire pin or
finger fitted to said slot 52 1-2, and in which it is intermittently operated through
the combined action of lever 54 fastened to centre plate 16 by screw 54 1-2,
roller 55 working in groove of cam 56 (see Fig. 9, Plate 3). Pin or finger 53 is so
timed in its action as to pass between the two needles A and A2, and to intercept

page_text: the thread of upper needle A', and hold it until needle A2 has reached a position
above the throat-plate.
Figures 29, 30 and 31, Plate 1, illustrates the combined action of needles A.'
and A² and the effect of vibrating block 57 1--2 as well as the purposes of the loop-
destroying finger 53.
Figure 29 shows that the lower needle has descended and been raised slightly to
throw out a loop in its thread and then stopped. Lower needle A2 has been moved
forward through the loop thread of A' and ascended to the top of throat-plate 21,
where it will remain until needle A2 has passed above the throat-plate, as shown in
Figure 30, Plate 1. As soon as the point of needle A reaches or approximately reaches
the top of the throat-plate 21, loop-destroying finger 53 is thrust forward between
the needles as shown in Figure 29, Plate 1, and is in a position to intercept the
thread of needle A' as soon as its eye approaches the top of the throat-plate.
When the needles are in the position shown in Figure 30, Plate 1, the goods are
removed from beneath the clamp. The thread of upper needle A¹ is around lower
needle A as well as <<
loop-destroying finger" 53 (see Figure 30, Plate 1); were it
not for finger 53 when the thread was cut and the goods pulled away, the loop of
the upper thread would naturally slip over the end of lower needle A² and remain
with the goods, but the thread being also around finger 53 as the material is pulled
away, the cut end of the thread is drawn down through the material, thus destroying
the loop, and the stitching will not ravel.
Figure 29, Plate 1, illustrates the utility as well as the necessity for the lateral
curvature in needle A². It is necessary that needle A' should rise but little before
needle A² reaches the top of the throat-plate, otherwise the loop-destroying
finger 53 could not be thrust between needles A' and A, and be in a position to
intercept the thread of needle A'. It is also necessary that needle A² should be
placed on the opposite side of needle A.' from that which it occupied when it
started on its forward and upward movement, otherwise the loop could not be
formed for needle A to pass through on its downward movement. The lateral
curvature in needle A enables us to vibrate it across the face of needle A' as it
moves upward, so that when it reaches the top of the cloth plate, its point and eye
are on the opposite side of needle A' from that which they occupied when the
needle started on its forward and upward movement.
I have discovered advantages resulting from finger 53 other than destroying the
loop in the thread. Its action is near the top of the throat-plate and by the
avoidance of a loop spreader, the quantity of thread drawn from the spool is reduced
to a minimum, and as the tension is applied when the eyes of the two needles are
practically opposite each other, I am enabled to sew thick and thin materials with
equal facility.
I have herein described and shown a vibrating block 57 1-2 in which lower
needle-carrier 62 (see Fig. 9 Plate 3) is actuated, to place needles A and A² on
alternate sides of each other when above and beneath the cloth plate but it is not
necessary that block 57 1-2 should be vibrated to accomplish the purposes in view.
If block 57 1-2 were set slightly at an angle the side or lateral curvature in
needle A would permit it to be raised to the top of the throat-plate before
needle A is moved up without impinging against the sides of the latter.
prefer, however, to vibrate block 57 1-2 in which lower needle-carrier 62 is
actuated, as better results can be reached; it enables us to lay the thread straight
over the edge of the cut fabric, instead of diagonally, as would be the case if lower
needle A² was set and moved upon an angle.
We
I do not wish to be understood as limiting ourselves to a grooved block for
actuating lower needle A² and its carrier 62. The means by which needle A' and
its carrier are supported, is immaterial. I have used a plain curved rod upon which
a grooved needle-holder or carrier was moved. I claim therefore that any support
for needle A and its carrier 62 would be an equivalent for grooved block 57 1-2 in
its relation to my devices, and therefore covered by the combination of parts herein
described and claimed..

page_text: 57 is a gear-wheel carried on shaft a' (see Fig. 8. Plate 2) and extends above.
bed-plate A (see Fig. 10, Plate 4) and to which straight gear-rack 26 carried on
under side of feed-slide 1, is connected (see Fig. 1, Plate 1; and Fig. 10, Plate 4).
Figure 11, Plate 4, is a perspective view of Plate 16, and throat-plate 21 and to
which is fastened plate 10. 57 1-2 (Fig. 12, Plate 4) is a perspective view of
vibrating block with beveled grooves 58 and 59, on opposite sides of said block,.
needle-carrier 62 is operated in groove 58. 59 1-2 is a stud with a thread cut on.
the end and by which means said grooved vibrating-block 57 1-2 is swiveled to.
bed-plate A. 60 is a pin or stud on the end of grooved block 57 1-2 and carries
roller 60 1-2 which works in side cam 63 having groove 61 1-2. The object of
roller 60 1-2 and cam 63 is to vibrate one end of block 57 1-2 and thus throw the
lower needle on one side of the upper needle when they are both below the throat-
plate, and on the opposite side thereof when they are both above the throat-plate..
Figure 13, Plate 4, is a perspective view of needle-carrier 62 with beveled sides
operated in groove 58 of block 57 1-2. 64 is a slot in block 57 1-2. By means of
a rod passing through said slot with nut and washer 64 1-2, needle-carrier 62 is
kept in said groove while moved forward and backward in the process of stitching
the button-hole. 65 is a part of the needle-carrier lever, with ball joint 66 which
is attached to needle-carrier 62. 69 is the lower needle A² held in place by
block 70 and screw 71. 65 (Fig. 14, Plate 4) is a perspective view of opposite end
of needle-carrier lever 65, having ball joint 73, and screw 74.
Figures 4 and 5, Plate 2, are sectional views of under side of machine as shown.
at w w, Plate 3; 83 is a trip-lever pivoted at, and hinged or linked to lever 84
at 9 3 85 is a shaft or rod for stop-motion (see Fig. 9 Plate 3); H (Fig. 9,
Plate 3) is the lower take-up operated by cam H¹; 86 is a face-cam carried on
main shaft B having groove 89 (see Plate 3, Fig. 9); 87 is an arm-carrying-
roller 88 (see Fig. 4, Plate 2) that moves in groove 89 of cam 86 (see Fig. 9,.
Plate 3); 90 is a nut on the end of pin and screw 91 of roller 88 (see Fig. 4,
Plate 2) 91 1-2 is a washer on said pin and screw 91 (see Fig. 9, Plate 3);
arm 87 is pivoted to bed-plate at one end by screw 92, and is connected at the other
end with lever-arm 65 by means of ball joint 65 1-2; the other end of lever 65 is.
connected to needle-carrier 62 by means of ball joint 66; thus by the joint action
of cam 86, levers 87 and 65 a forward and backward movement imparted to lower
needle-carrier 62 and by which several means the lower needle is operated; 94 is a.
brake made of tempered steel faced with leather, and is intended to steady the
movement of feed-slide I under action of pawl 18 working in ratchet-wheel 17: this.
brake is screwed to trip-arm 84 through block 84 1-2 by means of screws KK.
(see Fig. 4, Plate 2); 95 is a wheel carried on ratchet-wheel shaft 96 against which
brake 94 impinges. Figure 4, Plate 2, shows the machine in a tripped condition
the end of trigger 42 pivoted to trip-arm 83, has been removed from its bearing on
bed-plate A at S, by the action of trip-lever 41 (see Fig. 4, Plate 2); trip-pin D,
carrying button D', is elevated above surface of bed-plate A; trip-lever arm 84 is.
forced down as at Ý and brake 94 by this same action is removed from contact with.
wheel 95. Figure 5, Plate 2, shows the machine in a geared condition; trip-pin D
with button D is forced down even with the surface of bed-plate A. and the end of
trigger 42 is resting on projection of bed-plate A at S, being pushed forward by
the action of spring 97 when arm 83 is depressed. Figure 6, Plate 2, is a sectional
view of lower side of machine as at X-X, Plate 3; 97 1-2 is a cam operated on.
main shaft B and moved in feed-block 98 having arms 99-99; feed-block 98 has
beveled sides and is held in place by beveled side pieces 100, 100; as shown in
Figure 7, Plate 2; 101 is a link pivoted on ratchet-wheel shaft 96; this pivoted
link has a slot 102 in which is operated slide-block 103 fastened to feed-slide 93 by
means of stud and nut passing through arm of feed-block 98 which has a slot.
corresponding to slot 102; pawl 18 is pivoted to an arm of link 101 at 104; thus
by the action of eccentric cam 97 1-2 working between arms 99-99 of feed-
block 98, a forward and backward movement is imparted to feed-block 98; at the

page_text: same time a rocking motion is imparted to link 101 carrying pawl 18, by which,
through its action on ratchet-wheel 17, a forward step by step movement is given
to ratchet-wheel 17, and shaft 96 is turned; through gear-wheel 57 1-2 carried
on shaft 96, and gear-wheel 57 carried on shaft a (see Fig. 9, Plate 3, and Fig. 8,
Plate 2) and their connection with straight feed-rack 26, carried on feed-slide 1, a
forward step by step movement is imparted to said feed-slide 1 after each stitch has
been completed. By raising or depressing slide-block 103 in slot 102 a longer or
shorter throw can be given to pawl 18 and thus the length of movement of link
arm 101 under the action of cam 97 1-2 working in feed-block 98, can be
controlled, and by this means the number of stitches in a button-hole can be
regulated spring 105 keeps pawl 18 in ratchet-wheel 17. Figure 16, Plate 5,
gives a perspective view of the means by which pawl 18 is lifted from ratchet-
wheel 17 at the conclusion of the stitching of each button-hole 106 is a lever
pivoted to stud 85 1-2 on bed-plate A by screw 83 1-2 (see Fig. 9, Plate 3);
one arm of lever 106 extends under pawl 18 of ratchet-wheel 17 while the other end
extends under block 84 1-2 of trip-lever arm 84 (see Figs. 16 and 21, Plate 5;
and Fig. 9, Plate 3; and Figs. 4 and 5, Plate 2); when the machine is tripped
and out of gear, trip-lever arm 84 is depressed and block 84 1-2 coming in contact
with one end of lever 106 it is moved and by its action pawl 18 is removed from
ratchet-wheel 17 as shown in Figure 8, Plate 2. When pin D is pressed down by
the operator, lever 84 is raised, releasing one end of arm 106 and pawl 18 is restored
to engagement with ratchet-wheel 17 by the action of spring 105 (see Figs. 21
and 16, Plate 5; and Fig. 6, Plate 2). Figure 27, Plate 6, shows among other
things a skeleton side view of the machine resting upon its iron stand G which is
secured to the table or support upon which the whole rests: 130 1-2 is a cutting
knife secured as shown on a lever 130, 131, pivoted at 132, and as shown, made up
of two parts 130, 131 which parts may be made adjustable upon each other in any
convenient way; 134 is a movable block beveled at 135 on its upper side and is
held in place by beveled side pieces Q on bed-plate A; one end of beveled
block 134 rests on anvil 136 which is fastened to the table or support to which the
iron stand is fastened; 137 is a lever or arm to which is fastened block 138 by
means of set-screw 139; lever-arm 137 is pivoted between brackets on bed-plate A
at 140 141 is a rod one end of which is swiveled to block 134 by screw 142, while
the other end of said rod is fastened to arm 137 by screw 143; as lever-arm 137 is
depressed for cutting the button-hole, block 134 is drawn out over anvil 136 and by
means of beveled edge 135 on block 134, block 130 is raised until knife 130 1-2
comes in contact with the fabric that is to be cut: 144 is a spiral spring one end of
which is attached to bed-plate A at 145, and the other end to lever-arm 137 at 146;
as soon as the blow has been administered by the descent of lever-arm 137 carrying
cutting-block 138, and the fabric cut, lever-arm 137 is carried up and block 134
forced back to position shown in drawing, and block 130 carrying knife is forced
down by action of spring 147. The advantage of this cutting device is, that while
the cutting is quickly executed, the fact that the anvil rests upon the table or
support of the machine, furnishes a thoroughly solid basis for the action of the
cutting block; the position of the machine is in no wise disturbed, and at the same
time removes all jar or shocks to the machine itself.
Figures 25 26 and 27 are views of the head and other parts of the machine.
Figure 26 an end view of the head that carries needle-bar 148, this figure likewise
shows cam 127 carried on rock shaft 149 for operating upper take-up 122, likewise
wedge 150 and by which latter means needle-bar 148 is so moved as to cause the
needle to enter the fabric at a greater or less distance from its edge. Figures 25 26
and 27 show, among other things, the two sectional parts of the head of the
machine joined and held, together by means of screws 151 151. 149 is a rock-
shaft 153 and 154 are two links connecting rock-shaft 149 with needle-bar 148
and by which means the latter is given an up and down motion, 155 is a screw by
which means the wedge 150 operated between parts of the head as shown in

page_text: Figures 26 and 27, is elevated or depressed. This wedge is used for the purpose
of giving the needle a wide or narrow bite in the fabric that is being stitched :-
To effect this the screws 151 are first loosened, then screw 155 is turned and
wedge 150 is raised or depressed at the will of the operator; this done the
screws 151 are tightened and the head is thus rendered practically solid.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated
to me by my foreign correspondent, declare that what I claim is :-
First In a button-hole sewing machine, a feed-slide in combination with a
rotating plate secured upon said slide, a segmental circular rack attached to said
plate, gearing adapted to engage said rack and rotate the plate through a
determined arc, and a movable rack tooth secured to the plate and arranged to
engage the driving gear and throw it into operative connection, with the rack.
Second: In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the feed-slide-
of a rotating plate secured upon said slide, a segmental circular rack attached to
said plate, and a rotating cam having the forward part of its acting surface made
like a section of a screw and the rear portion formed in a plane perpendicular to
its axis of rotation so that when engaged with the rack it first turns the plate for
a determined distance and then holds it stationary during the rest of each revolution.
of the cam, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Third In a button-hole sewing machine the combination with the feed-slide of
a rotating plate secured upon said slide, a segmental circular rack attached to said.
plate; a rotating feed cam arranged to engage said rack and rotate the plate through.
a determined arc; and a movable tooth secured to said plate and by which the
rack and cam are thrown into gear.
Fourth: In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the feed slide
of a rotating plate secured upon said slide; a segmental circular rack attached to
said plate; a rotating feed cam arranged to engage said rack and rotate the plate
through a determined are; a movable rack tooth pivoted to said plate and arranged
when depressed to engage the cam and throw it into engagement with the rack;
and a tooth-supporting plate secured to the frame of the machine and arranged to
hold the movable tooth up for a determined part of the forward motion of the feed-
slide.
Fifth In a button-hole sewing machine, a feed-slide in combination with a.
rotating plate secured in said slide; a circular segmental rack attached to said.
plate; a movable rack tooth attached to the end of a lever pivoted to the plate; a
depressing rod attached to the other end of the said lever and extending through
the plate and a rotating cam arranged to engage the rack by means of its movable
tooth when said tooth is pressed down, all substantially as and for the purpose
specified.
Sixth In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the feed-slide, of
mechanism for actuating the same as described, operated by a ratchet-wheel; a
pawl actuated by the continuously-operating parts of the machine; a pawl-lifting
device arranged as described to lift said pawl out of contact with the ratchet-wheel
and stop the forward feed of the slide and having an actuating pin 13 situated
beneath and near the end of the slide in the direction to which it moves; a rotating
plate secured in the slide; a circular segmental rack attached to said plate; a
movable rack tooth secured at the front end of the rack; gearing arranged to drive
the plate by means of the rack and placed so as to be thrown into gear therewith
by means of the movable tooth; a plate arranged to come in contact with and raise
pin 13 and through it the pawl aforesaid at a determined point in the forward
movement of the slide; and a flange extending around the periphery of the rack
as described and acting to hold pin 13 up and stop the motion, of the slide while
the plate is rotating, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Seventh In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the feed-slide
o mechanism for actuating the same as described, operated by a ratchet-wheel; a
B

page_text: pawl actuated by the continuously-operating parts of the machine; a
device arranged as described to lift said pawl out of contact with the ratchet-wheel
and stop the forward feed of the slide and having an actuating pin 13 situated '
beneath and near the end of the slide in the direction to which it moves; a rotating
plate secured in the slide; a circular. segmental rack attached to said plate; a
movable rack tooth secured at the front end of the rack; gearing arranged to
drive the plate by means of the rack and placed so as to be thrown into gear there-
with by means of the movable tooth; a plate arranged on the front end of the
movable tooth to come in contact with and raise pin 13 and through. it the pawl
aforesaid at a determined point in the forward movement of the slide, and a
flange extending around the periphery of the rack as described and acting to hold
pin 13 up and stop the motion of the slide while the plate is rotating, all substantially
as and for the purpose specified.
Eighth In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with. the feed-
slide carrying a rotating disc and the bearings on which said slide moves; of a
spring pin 29 secured to the bottom of the slide so as to press against one of
the bearings thereof; and a notch 33 formed in said bearing to receive the pin and
lock the slide in position while its rotating.plate is in operation.
Ninth In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the feed-slide of
mechanism for actuating the same as described operated by a ratchet-wheel; a pawl
actuated by the continuously-operating parts of the machine; a pawl-lifting device
arranged as described to lift said pawl out of contact with the ratchet-wheel and
stop the forward feed of the slide and having an actuating pin 13 situated beneath
and near the end of the slide in the direction to which it moves; a rotating plate
secured in the slide; a circular segmental rack attached to said plate; a movable
rack tooth secured at the front end of the rack; gearing arranged to drive the plate
by means of the rack and placed so as to be thrown into gear therewith by means
of the movable tooth; a plate arranged to come in contact with and raise pin 13
and through it the pawl aforesaid at a determined point in the forward move-
ment of the slide; a flange extending around the periphery of the rack as
described and acting to hold pin 13 up and stop the motion of the slide while
the plate is rotating and a locking pin, as 29, arranged to register with and
engage a notch at the moment the pawl is lifted from the ratchet-wheel so as
to lock the slide in position, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Tenth: In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the feed-slide
of mechanism for actuating the same as described, operated by a ratchet-wheel;
a pawl actuated by the continuously-operating parts of the machine; a pawl-
lifting device arranged as described to lift said pawl out of contact with the ratchet-
wheel and stop the forward feed of the slide and having an actuating pin 13 situated
beneath and near the end of the slide in the direction to which it moves; a rotating
plate secured in the slide; a circular segmental rack attached to said plate; a
movable rack tooth secured at the front end of the rack; gearing arranged to
drive the plate by means of the rack and placed so as to be thrown into gea
therewith by means of the movable tooth; a plate arranged to come in contac
with and raise pin 13 and through it the pawi aforesaid at a determined point in
the forward movement of the slide; a flange extending around the periphery o
the rack as described and acting to hold pin 13 up and stop the motion of th
slide while the plate is rotating; a notch 33 formed in the edge of a slide bearing
a spring pin 29 arranged to engage said notch and lock the slide in position whe
the pawl is lifted from the ratchet-wheel and a plate secured upon the rotating dis
and situated as described so that it will engage pin 29 and withdraw it from th
notch as the rotation of the plate is complete, all substantially as and for th
purpose specified.
Eleventh In combination with the stitching mechanisms of a sewing machin
said mechanisms embracing a straight upper needle Aadapted to pass throug
the fabric, and a curved lower needle A having in addition to its gener
curvature, a side or.lateral curvature as described; said lower needle being adapte
5

page_text: to pass over the edge of the fabric, and both needles conjointly operating above
and beneath the cloth plate, of the grooved block 57 1-2 fulcruned beneath
the bed-plate, the lower needle-carrier 62 reciprocating therein, and means for
vibrating said block or support 57 1-2, substantially as described.
Twelfth In combination with upper needle A' and lower needle A², grooved
vibrating block 57 1-2, in which is operated carrier 62 for lower needle A, means
for vibrating said grooved block or support 57 1-2 consisting of the main shaft B,
cam 63, stud and roller 60 1-2 or their equivalents, whereby lower needle A² is
placed on one side of the upper needle when they are both above the cloth-plate,
and on the opposite side thereof when they are both beneath the cloth-plate, sub-
stantially as described.
Thirteenth In combination with the stitch-forming and cloth-clamping
mechanisms of a button-hole sewing machine and its throat-plate, the said stitch-
forming mechanisms comprising an upper needle A¹ and a lower needle A², the
intermittently-moving loop-destroying finger 53, and means for causing the same to
intercept the thread loop carried by upper needle A, and to retain the same
until after the said needle has passed above the throat-plate, substantially as
described.
Fourteenth In combination with the stitch-forming mechanisms of a sewing
machine, said mechanisms embracing a straight upper-needle A', located above the
bed-plate, and adapted to pass through the fabric, and a curved lower needle A'
located beneath the bed-plate, and adapted to move over the edge of the fabric, but
both conjointly operated above and beneath the bed-plate, and arranged to pass
alternately through the thread loops thrown out by each a throat-plate 21, having
in addition to the usual opening on the end through which the needles are operated
a slot or opening 52 1-2 located on the side at an angle; the loop-destroying
finger 53, and means for intermittently moving said finger in said slot or
opening 52 1-2 and causing said finger 53 to intercept the thread carried by upper
needle A. and hold it until needle A has passed above the throat-plate, all sub-
stantially as set forth and described.
Fifteenth In combination with the stitch-forming mechanisms, the loop-
destroying finger 53 and the throat-plate 21, having slot or opening 52 1-2 of the
lever 54 to which is attached loop-destroying finger 53, stud and roller 55, cam 56,
and by which several means or their equivalents, loop-destroying finger 53 is
intermittently moved forward and backwards in opening 52 1-2 in throat-plate 21,
and means which cause it to intercept the thread carried by needle A' and hold it
until needle A' has passed above the throat-plate, substantially as described.
:
Sixteenth In a button-hole sewing machine, the mechanism for carrying and
actuating the lower needle consisting of a grooved block 57 1-2 pivoted at one
end; a needle-carrier 62 secured in the grooves of block 57 1-2; a cam 63
arranged to engage the free end of block 57 1-2 and give it an oscillating move-
ment as described; a pivoted lever 87; a cam 86 acting to oscillate said lever;
and a rod 65 connecting lever 87 with the needle-carrier, all substantially as
specified.
Seventeenth In a button-hole sewing machine having a clutch arranged to
connect and disconnect the main shaft and driving-wheel, the combination of the
feed-slide with a lug 35 extending out from one edge thereof; a rotating rod 36
having right and left screw-threads cut upon it; a stop-block 37 swiveling upon
the threaded end of the rod nearest the front of the machine and adapted to engage
lug 35 when turned in toward the slide, and a clutch-locking block 38 swiveling on
the threaded end of rod 36 furthest from the front of the machine, said clutch-
locking block 38, when turned in toward the slide, locking the clutch connecting
the main shaft with the driving-wheel in operative position, and being adapted to
engage with lug 35 so as to be pushed out by lug 35 thus stopping the machine, all
substantially as and for the purpose specified.
:
Eighteenth In a button-hole sewing machine having a clutch arranged to
connect and disconnect the main shaft and driving-wheel, the combination of the

page_text: feed-slide with a lug 35 extending out from one edge thereof; a rotatable rod 36
having right and left screw-threads cut upon it; a stop-block 37 swiveling upon
the threaded end of the rod nearest the front of the machine and adapted to engage
lug 35 when turned in toward the slide; a clutch-locking block 38 swiveling on
the threaded end of rod 36 furthest from the front of the machine, said clutch-
locking block 38, when turned in toward the slide, locking the clutch connecting
the main shaft with the driving-wheel in operative position being adapted to
engage with lug 35 so as to be pushed out by lug 35 thus stopping the machine;
and mechanism arranged as described to push the stop-block 37 in when the clutch
is out of action.
Nineteenth: In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of the feed-slide,
a lug 35 carried on the edge of said slide, a rod 36 having screw-threads OO cut
thereon in opposite directions, a stop-block 37, and latching block 38 swiveling on
said rod as specified, a trip-lever 83, trip-rod D, lever 84, stop-shaft 85, stop-
lever 106, levers 40 and 41, the former having beveled edge 40 1-2 trip-dog 42,
and spring 97, all combined to act in starting and stopping the machine as
specified.
Twentieth In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of the feed-slide,
a lug 35 extending out from said slide, a lug 43 secured to the bed-plate, and an
adjustable stop 44 screwing in said lug and arranged in the path of lug 35 so as to
regulate the backward motion of the slide.
Twenty-first: In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the gear-
wheel 57 and its actuating mechanism, of the feed-slide, and a straight rack 26
pivoted at one end to the slide, having a free pivotal engagement with the gear-
wheel 57, whereby the slide can change its angular position without change in the
position of the rack.
Twenty-second: In combination with the stitch-forming mechanisms of a button-
hole sewing machine, feed-slide 1, pivoted straight feed-rack 26, feed-wheel 57
carried on shaft a', intermediate feed-wheel 57 1-2 carried on shaft 96, arm 101,
having slot 102, and carrying slide-block 103, pawl 18, pivoted to arm 101, feed-
block 98, having arms 100-100, cam 97 1-2 carried on main shaft B, whereby by
the combined action of these several parts a forward step by step motion is imparted
to feed-slide 1, as fully set forth and described.
Twenty-third: In combination with the stitch-forming mechanism of a button-
hole sewing machine, feed-slide 1, feed-rack 26, feed-wheel 57, shaft a², and
intermediate feed-wheel 57 1-2, shaft 96, ratchet-wheel 17, pawl 18, trip-pin D,
and levers 83 and 84, block 84 1-2, wheel 95 on shaft 96, brake 94, for the
purposes of securing regular movements to feed-slide 1, under the action of pawl 18,
working in ratchet-wheel 17, as fully set forth and described.
Twenty-fourth: In a button-hole sewing machine, in combination with a shaft
and mechanism actuated by said shaft acting to move the feed-slide, a ratchet-
wheel 17 secured to said shaft, a brake-wheel 95 connected to said shaft, a
rock-lever 101, a pawl 18 attached to said lever and arranged to. engage the
ratchet-wheel, a cam 97 1-2 and mechanism connecting said cam with lever 101:
a pivoted trip-lever 84, a brake 94 secured to said trip-lever so as to overlie brake-
wheel 95, a pivoted lever 106 having one arm arranged with reference to the
trip-lever as described and its other arm extending beneath pawl 18, and mechanism
for actuating trip-lever 84 as described so that when said lever is depressed the
brake is applied to wheel 95 and the pawl restored to ratchet-wheel 17.
Twenty-fifth: In a button-hole sewing machine, in combination with a shaft and
mechanism actuated by said shaft acting to move the feed-slide, a ratchet-wheel 17
secured to said shaft; a brake-wheel 95 connected to said shaft, a rock-lever 101, a
pawl 18 attached to said lever and arranged to engage the ratchet-wheel, a
cam 97 1-2 and mechanism connecting said cam with lever 101 a pivoted trip-
lever 84, a brake 94 secured to said trip-lever so as to overlie brake-wheel 95,
a pivoted lever 106 having one arm arranged with reference to the trip-lever as
described and its other arm extending beneath pawl 18 and a second trip-lever 83

page_text: arranged as described to actuate lever 84, all substantially as and for the purpose
specified.
:
Twenty-sixth In a button-hole sewing machine, a pivoted arm 131 carrying
a cutter, a sliding wedge 134 arranged to elevate and support the arm 131, an
anvil 136 arranged to support said wedge, a lever-arm 137 pivoted to the machine
at one end and carrying a cutter-block, a rod 141 connecting the wedge with an
arm of lever 137, and a spring arranged to hold the arm 137 raised, all substantially
as and for the purpose specified.
Twenty-seventh: In a button-hole sewing machine, a pivoted arm 131 carrying
a cutter, adjustably secured to it; a sliding wedge 134 arranged to elevate and
support the arm 131; an anvil 136 arranged to support said wedge; a lever-
arm 137 pivoted to the machine at one end and carrying a cutter block; a rod 141
connecting the wedge with an arm of lever 137, and a spring arranged to hold the
arm 137 raised, all substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Dated this 28th day of October 1890.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicant.