Improvements in the Manufacture of Ladies' Dress-bodices, Corsets, and the like.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Jan., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 24th Oct., 1898-Accepted, 26th Nov., 1898
Improvements in the Manufacture of Ladies' Dress-bodices, Corsets,
and the like.
I, LOUISE DYER, of 17, Garway Road, Bayswater, in the County of Middlesex,
Court Dressmaker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of ladies' dress-bodices, corsets and
the like, and consists in an improved method of cutting the material forming the
foundation of the bodice or corset, and to an improved mode of furnishing the
same with bones for the purpose of imparting to the garment the necessary stiff-
ness and affording the figure the requisite support.
In applying my invention, by way of example, to a lady's dress-bodice, the
material forming the foundation is in ten pieces, five in either half, each half
being a counterpart of the other. Commencing at the front, the first piece is cut
straight, that is to say, parallel with the selvage. The piece next the front is
cut on the cross at the waist and on the bias at the shoulder. The piece under
the arm is cut on the straight. The fourth piece, or that next to the back piece,
is cut on the bias at the waist and on the straight towards the shoulder. The
back piece is cut on the cross. The fourth piece may with advantage be divided
up the centre and slightly taken in at the waist; thus affording a slight degree
of spread over the hips.
The bones are arranged as follows:-Upon the first and second pieces are five
bones, one at the junction of the two pieces and two on either side thereof, the
outer bone of each of these pairs inclining outwards towards the top. Between
the upper extremities of each of these pairs are three short bones placed
diagonally. There is a bone at the junction of the second with the third piece,
another at the junction of the third with the fourth piece and another down the
centre of the third piece. The centre of the fourth piece is provided with two
bones, arranged side by side. There is a bone at the junction of the fourth with
the fifth piece, and the centre of the fifth piece is provided with two bones arranged
side by side. There is also a bone at the centre of the back making, with flie
thirteen on either main side thereof, twenty-seven main bones, in addition to the
twelve short diagonal bones, six under each breast.
The above described method of boning is appropriate for normal figures; but
for abnormal figures and for certain special styles of dress, slight modifications
may be made without departing from the principle of my invention.
Foundations boned in the manner described may be covered with dress material
to the wearer's fancy, and afford a sufficiently perfect support to the figure to
permit of corsets being dispensed with.
1000

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Ladies' Dress-bodices, Corsets,
and the like.
I, LOUISE DYER, of 17, Garway Road, Bayswater, in the County of Middlesex,
Court Dressmaker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of ladies' dress-bodices, corsets and
the like, and consists in an improved method of cutting the material forming the
foundation of the bodice or corset, and to an improved mode of furnishing the
same with bones for the purpose of imparting to the garment the necessary stiff-
ness and affording the figure the requisite support.
In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the front portion
of a foundation for a lady's dress-bodice constructed according to my invention.
Fig. 2 is a similar view of the back portion. Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view of
the foundation illustrating the shapes of the various pieces employed in its con-
struction and the method of boning Fig. 4 illustrates the various pieces required
for constructing one half front and back it being understood that the other half
front and back. are constructed of correspondingly cut pieces. The dot-and-dash
lines in the several figs. indicate the direction of the warp of the material.
In applying my invention, by way of example, to a lady's dress-bodice, the
material forming the foundation is cut in ten pieces, five in either half, each half
being a counterpart of the other. Commencing at the front, the first piece A is
cut straight, that is to say parallel with the selvage. In some instances this piece
may be formed by cutting the lower portion A' in a separate piece and inserting
the same in position in the major portion of the said first piece. The piece B next
the front is cut on the cross at the waist b, and on the bias at the shoulder b¹.
The piece C, under the arm, is cut on the straight or slightly on the bias. The
fourth piece D, or that next to the back piece, is cut on the straight as regards
its general appearance a piece being cut away as shown d whereby, when the
joint is made good, the part towards the waist appears on the bias and the part
towards the shoulder on the straight. The back piece E is cut on the cross.
The
fourth piece being divided as shown enables the waist to be taken in slightly;
thus affording a slight degree of spread over the hips. A hip-piece F may more-
over be provided with a view to obtaining a more perfect setting of the article at
that part. The piece F is arranged transversely to the lower edges of the pieces B
and ; the ends of the said hip-piece being secured at ff to the lower parts of
the pieces A and D.
The bones are arranged as follows:-Upon the first and second pieces (A and B)
are five bones. one at the junction of the two pieces and two on either side thereof,
the outer bone of each of these pairs inclining outwards towards the top. Between
the upper extremities of each of these pairs are three short bones placed
diagonally. In the drawing, I have illustrated the foremost bone (or busk) A*
in dotted lines. Between that bone and the one A are three short diagonally
placed bones a a² a³. A bone A³ is placed between the bones A and A*; the
latter being placed at the junction of the pieces A and B of the foundation. The
piece B is furnished with one bone B', between which and the bone A' are placed
the short diagonal bones 60 6 6. There is a bone B at the junction of the
piece B with the piece C; this bone being disposed diagonally to the line of junc-
tion. At or about the junction of the pieces C and D and down the centre of
the piece C are other bones marked respectively 0 and 01. The centre of the
5
4

page_text: fourth piece D is provided with two bones D¹ D³, arranged side by side. There
is a bone D at or about the junction of the fourth piece with the fifth piece E,
and the centre of the latter piece is provided with two bones E E arranged side
by side. There is also a boue E at the centre of the back; making, with the
thirteen on either main side thereof, twenty-seven main bones, in addition to the
twelve short diagonal bones, six under each breast.
The above described method of boning is appropriate for normal figures; but
for abnormal figures and for certain special styles of dress, slight modifications
may be made without departing from the principle of my invention.
Foundations boned in the manner described may be covered with dress material
to the wearer's fancy and afford a sufficiently perfect support to the figure to
permit of corsets being dispensed with.
It is well known that the waist measurement of a lady's dress-bodice is about
an inch and a half larger than the waist measurement of the corset. So that for
a figure requiring a corset measuring twenty inches at the waist, the dress-
bodice must measure twenty-one and a half inches. A bodice constructed accord-
ing to my improved method would however measure the same as the corset,
thereby reducing the waist measurement by one-and-a-half inches.
In constructing the foundation it will be seen that no pieces can be added and
no pieces can be dispensed with. Similarly the bones cannot be altered as the
boning corresponds with the cut of the article.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I claim :-
1. The herein described method of cutting the material for forming the various
pieces A B, C, D, E, comprising the foundation of a lady's dress-bodice; same
consisting in cutting the bodice in ten pieces, namely, on cach side a piece A on
the straight, a piece B on the cross at the waist and on, the bias at the shoulder,
a piece on the straight or slightly on the bias, a piece D on the straight with
a take-in seam which renders the portion towards the waist on the bius and that
towards the shoulder on the straight and a piece E on the cross; the one half
comprising five pieces and being a counterpart of the other.
2. In a lady's dress-bodice foundation, the herein described method of arrang-
ing the bones whereby the necessary stiffness is imparted to the article and the
figure afforded the requisite support; the foundation being provided with twenty
seven main bones one in the centre of the back and thirteen on each side thereof
towards the front-and twelve short bones, six being placed diagonally under
each breast portion.
3. A foundation for a lady's dress-bodice consisting of ten pieces of
material A A, BB, CC, DD, EE, and thirty nine bones, A*A³, A³A³, A³ A³,
A*A*, B¹¹, B* B*, C¹C¹³, C³ C³, D'D¹, D³ D³,"D*D*, E'E¹, E³ E², E and a'a
a² àª¸´a³ a³, tº bº, 6º ¿³, 1³ ³, all combined and arranged substantially as and for
the purposes specified.
è purposes specified.
Dated this 20th day of October 1898.
For the Applicant,
G. G. M. HARDINGHAM,
Chartered Patent Agent,
Clun House, Surrey Street, London, W.C.