IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-- FACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN MATERIALS, MACHINERY. AND APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, JULIAN
BERNARD, of Guilford Street, Russell Square, in the County of Middlesex,"
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters, Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Twenty-seventh day of
January, in the fifteenth year of Her, reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto me, the said Julian Bernard, Hel especial
license, full power, sole privilege and authority, that the said Juliahr Bernard,
my exors, admors, and assigns, and such others as 1. the said Julián Bernard, my
exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times during the term of years thereir expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England;"
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also within the Islands of
Jersey, Guernsey,' Alderney, Sark, and-Man, and-in all Her-Majesty's Colonies
and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU--
FACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN MATERIALS, MACHINERY.
AND APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH;" in which said Letters Patent is con- .
tained a proviso, requiring that I, the said Julian-Bernard, by an instrument
in writing under my hand and seal, shall particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same. is to. be.
performed, and shall cause the same to be enrolled in Her said Majesty's High.
277

page_text: Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Julian Bernard, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the present instrument in writing, as follows, reference
being had to the Drawings herein referred to, and to the letters and figures
marked thereon, that is to say:
My said Invention relates first, to certain mechanical arrangements for
cutting, shaping, and pressing the soles of boots and shoes.
Second, to certain novel arrangements for effecting the paring of the edges
of the uppers.
Third, to an improved system or mode of lasting or mounting the uppers on
to the last.
Fourth, to an apparatus for inserting plastic material into the soles of boots
and shoes for securing them to the uppers.
Fifth, to an arrangement for inserting pegs into suitable holes in the soles
and heels of boots and shoes for the purpose last mentioned.
Sixth, to an arrangement for forming pegs for boots or shoe soles of leather
which has been previously cut and pressed by machines for that purpose.
Seventh, to a novel and improved system of securing the different parts of
boots and shoes by forcing plastic materials into suitable holes or openings
for that purpose.
Eighth, to a novel method of preparing the materials to be used in the
manufacture of boots and shoes, for the purpose of rendering the same
impervious to moisture.
Fig. 1on Sheet I. of my Drawings is a side elevation of a press for, cutting,
shaping, and pressing the soles of boots or shoes; and Fig. 2 is a side view
of a cam hercin-after described. A, A, is the standard or main framing,
fixed. to the bed plate; B, C, is a shaft working in bearings D, D, formed in
the framing A; a spur wheel E is keyed upon the shaft C, and gears into a
pinion F keyed upon the shaft G. This shaft is mounted in bearings H, I,
and carries a spur wheel K which gears into a pinion L keyed on to the
main driving shaft M. This shaft is supported in suitable bearings, only one
of which, marked N, can be seen, the other being bolted to the interior of
the standard O which supports the bearing 1; 1' is a fly-wheel; and 12, 13,
are the fast and loose driving pullies over which the driving band passes from
the prime mover; P is a rod, the upper part of which is forked and slotted,
and fits accurately over the shaft C, to preserve the vertical movement of the

page_text: rod through the guide plates Q. Q. which are bolted to the framing A, as
shewn; the lower end of this rod is formed, or has a picce fixed thereon, of
the shape shewn at P', to which piece a die R is affixed, the same being
furnished with pins T. T. fitting into holes in the piece P'; the pins I. I, have
holes formed through them through which the transverse pins 2, 2, are
passed, thereby holding the die firmly in its proper position. Immediately
under the die R there is another die S. which is fitted with holes which pass
over the pins or studs 3, 3. fixed in the lower vertical slide T. This slide is
guided in its proper course by the hollow guide U. the lower part of which
is secured to the bed plate B. The upper part carries a shear plate or cutting
edge V, secured to it by bolts, as shewn; the parts S. T. U, V. are shewn in
section, to enable them to be more readily understood: W is a weighted lever
the fulcrum of which is a pin at X; one end of this lever is in contact with
the lower end of the rod T, the opposite end of the lever being furnished with
an adjustable weight Y for effecting the upward movement of the die S; the
downward movement of the upper die R is effected by a cam Z fixed upon
the shaft C. A forked lever Z' takes into the clutch Z. for throwing the
machine into and out of gear with the driving gear; Z is a helical spring for
effecting the upward movement of the rod P and die R, after the cam Z has
ceased to act upon them. The action of this machine is as follows:-A piece
of leather is introduced between the dies R and S, these dies being out
of contact with each other, the surface of the lower die being kept above the
surface of the shear or cutting edge by the adjusting pin Z. The lever Z¹
then throws the clutch box Z into gear, and thereby gives
shaft C. and causes the cam Z to rotate, and an incline of the shape shewn at
Figure 2 being formed upon the cam Z, causes the rod P to descend and
press the leather on the die S until the resistance of the weight y is over-
come, whereupon the dies R and S and the leather which is between them will
pass the shear or cutting edge V: thus the leather may be pressed, shaped,
and cut to the required form or design.
motion to the
Having cut and shaped a piece of leather to the required size in the manner
hercin-before described, for the sole of a boot, I next proceed to prepare it
for the upper in the following manner:-
Figure 1. on Sheet 2 of the accompanying Drawing, is a side elevation of
a box or vessel of wood A placed upon a suitable stand B; C, in Figure 3, is
a piece of porous artificial stone I prefer that manufactured and known as
"Ransome's patent." This stone is placed upon a support D, which rests and
is embedded with cements upon a projection E, fixed to or formed upon the
box A. This is clearly shewn at Figure 2, which is a top plan view of

page_text: Figure 1, and at Figure 3, which is a transverse section taken through the line
A, A, at Figures 1 and 2; F is a pipe one end of which is fitted air-tight into
the bottom of the box or vessel A, the opposite end of this pipe being in
connection with an apparatus for exhausting the air from that part of the
box A between the under side of the stone C and the bottom of the box; thus
a partial vacuum may be crented in the box A, the effect produced being to
cause the piece of leather or sole Z when placed upon the surface of the
stone C to be kept in close contact with it. The piece of leather thus held
may be operated upon by one or other of the knives shewn at Figures 4 and 5,
the metal rim G serving as a guide or templet for the knife whereby the edge
of the sole may be champered or bevilled in the direction of the incline denoted
by the dotted lines at Figure 1; the sole may afterwards be removed by
turning the cock H, so as to admit the atmosphere within the box A; in this
manner each sole may be successively operated upon. Figure 6 is a transverse
section of a similar stone for shaping those pieces or thicknesses of leather
intended to form that part of the heel of the boot which is nearest to the solc.
Figure 7 is a transverse section of a similar stone for champering or bevilling
the edges of the upper leathers of a boot or shoe.
Similar letters of reference refer to corresponding parts in each of the
herein-before described Figures.
Sheet 3 of the Drawings is a longitudinal vertical section of a machine for
mounting or lasting boots and shoes. A, A, is a cast-iron box: B. a pin or stud
fixed in this box; C, C, is bag formed of waterproof cloth or other non-elastic
waterproof material. This bag is fitted with two tubes attached with stop
cocks for filling and discharging; C³, C³, are stop-cocks for filling and emptying
the bag with fluid; D is a last having a hole formed in it which when placed
over the pin B determines its proper position in the box or frame A, A. The
hole E is also formed in the last and bottom box a, through which the metal
tube passes; a flexible tube G is attached at one end to the tube F, the other
end being fitted with a stop-cock G¹ for the purpose hereafter mentioned;
H is an elastic bag formed of vulcanized india-rubber and placed immediately
above the bag C. A tube I communicates with the bag H, and this tube is
fitted with stop-cocks I', I', for charging and discharging the bag H; K, K,
are two pins over which a plate of metal Z. herein-after described, is to be
passed. M, M, are strings for preventing the bag C from falling inwards
when the last is removed and the fluid allowed to escape therefrom. The
action of this machine is as follows:-The attendant having first passed the
upper I, I, upon the last D, brings the holes of the last over the pin B and
tube F; the inner sole 2, 2, is then placed upon the last and the cock 'G'

page_text: opened, which is in communication with any convenient exhausting apparatus,
in order that the air may be exhausted from beneath the inner sole 2, 2.
Fig. 2 is a transverse and vertical section of the last, and Fig. 3 is a
longitudinal and vertical section of a portion thereof, taken through the middle
and drawn to an enlarged scale. a. a. are grooves or recesses formed across
the last; b, b. a plate perforated with small holes secured to the last; previous,
however, to doing so. I attach a piece of felt or other similar permeable sub-
stance of the same size as the sole of the last to the plate b, b, is connected
thereto by sowing, and the sole is thus kept in close contact with the last by
atmospheric pressure. The attendant next proceeds to charge or inflate the
bag C with water or other fluid through the cock C, taking care to close the
cock C during the operation; he then attaches the upper to the inner sole by
a coating of solution. This solution is composed of the following ingredients,
videlicet, one part of gutta percha, three of caoutchouc, to which is added thirty
of shell or gum lac: the whole being thoroughly dissolved or mixed is hented
to 212 degrees of Fahrenheit, then poured into any convenient vessel until it
becomes solidified; when it is required for use it is reheated and reduced to the
desired consistency by naptha or any other suitable solvent. I do not. how-
ever, intend to limit or confine myself to the precise ingredients or proportions
above mentioned, as other ingredients would answer the purpose equally well;
but those I have mentioned I have found to answer the purpose; a solid plate
Lis then plaved over the pins K, and being secured in that position by the
keys M, the cock 1' is then opened, thereby admitting steam, water, or other
fluid into the bag or lube H, which has the effect of expanding the bag to
such an extent as to cause the projecting portion of the upper to be forcibly
pressed upon the inner sole, and thereby unites these parts firmly together.
would remark that this machine or apparatus. is more particularly intended to
be used in the manufacture of boots and shoes composed of cloth or other
light material. Sheet 4 of the Drawings is a vertical section of an apparatus
to be employed for introducing plastic material into the holes before men-
tioned, with reference to Fig. 1 of Sheet 4 of the Drawings. A, A¹, is a
cylindrical shaped vessel formed in two parts, connected together by
screws as shewn; the part A' is fitted with a handle, as also an opening
through which a pipe B is passed; around the lower end of this pipe a bag
of vulcanized india-rubber or other waterproof material C is securely
fastened, and to the upper end is attached a piece of elastic waterproof
tubing D, which communicates with a head of water placed at such a height
as will afford the necessary pressure upon the surface of the plastic material
I

page_text: contained in the part A of the vessel A. A'; E is a nipple screwed into the
lower end of the vessel A: these nipples may be formed of different sizes, and
are secured into the vessel A, as shewn, and may be used according to the
nature of the work to be performed; a stop-cock F is for the purpose of
cutting off the communication between the head of water and the inside of
the bag C; G is an outlet cock for discharging the contents of the bag C
when necessary; H is a cock for charging the vessel A with plastic material.
This apparatus is to be used as follows:-The workman with one hand holds
the apparatus in the required position, and with the other he places the
nipple E in the holes in the plate Z, and by opening the cock Fa certain
quantity of plastic material is discharged through the nipple: the cock F is
then shut and the instrument removed to the next hole, which it fills in a
similar manner; in this manner the operation is continued until all the holes in
the sole. of the shoe are filled, to effect which the holes in the plate Z must of
necessity correspond to the holes in the leather, which is not shown in this
Figure. Fig. 1, on Sheet 5 of my Drawings. is a vertical section of an
instrument for inserting the pegs or fastenings herein-before mentioned into
holes formed in the sole of a boot or shoe, for the purpose of connecting the
inner and outer soles to the upper; Fig. 2 is an elevation of the same at
A; and Fig. 3 is an elevation at B; Figs. 4, 5, 6. exhibit views of some of
the parts of the same instrument drawn to an enlarged scale; at each of these
Figures similar letters of reference are employed to denote corresponding
parts. At Fig. 4. A, A, is a tube within which the pegs or fastenings are
placed; the lower part of this tube is formed with a slot or opening at *,
shewn at Fig. 3, into which is inserted a piece B, acted upon by a spring C;
D is a rod or hammer which receives a vertical movement by pressure of the
handle E. This hammer is maintained in its course by screws 1, 1, passed
through slots formed in the rod D, as shewn at Figures 1 and 2; F is a
helical spring for effecting the upward movement of the rod or hammer D
after the pressure has been removed from the handle E. It will be seen upon
referring to Figure 4 that there is a short piece of tubing G fixed at the
lower end of the tube A, A, through which the pegs or fastenings
allowed to pass; I, I, are metal inclines fixed to the rod or hammer D, at
each side thereof, as shown at Figures 4, 5, 6; K is a pin acted upon by the
pieces I, I, for drawing back the piece B; L is a spring, the lower part of which
is fixed to the tube G; the upper end of the same spring is intended as a
detent to prevent the pegs or fastenings from falling forward after they have
left the tube A, and previous to their being deposited in the tube G. This instru-
*
are

page_text: ة
ment is to be used as follows:-The tube A being filled with pegs or fastenings,
and the relative position of the several parts being as shewn at Figure 1,
it will appear manifest that each separate peg or fastening will fall out of the
tube A into the slot or opening, Figure 3, when the pressure of the spring C
will force the piece B, together with the peg or fastening, into the position
shewn at Figure 4, and the hammer D as it is forced downwards will have the
effect of pressing the peg or fastening into such of the holes in the sole of
the boot or shoe as are brought opposite to the tube G in which the peg or
fastening is, and simultaneously with the downward movement of the hammer
D the inclined edges of the pieces K will be brought into contact with the pin
K, and will thereby effect the drawing back of the piece B, and allow another
peg to escape from the tube A; the upward movement of the hammer D
withdrawing the inclined pieces I, I, from the pin K, will allow the spring C
to force forward the piece B and peg or fastening *, which is in contact there-
with, in the manner before described. Figure 1, on Sheet 6 of the Drawings,
is an end. elevation (shewn partly in section) of a machine to be employed for
cutting leather into strips; Figure 2 is a longitudinal vertical section of a
portion of the same machine on the line Z, Z, at Figure 1; Figure 3 is one
of the principal parts of the machine detached; similar letters of reference
denote corresponding parts. A, A, is a portion of a stand or framing; B,
a cast-iron bar bolted thereto; C, C, are links for connecting the bar B to
a slotted bar D (as shewn at Figure 3); E is a slot or opening formed
in this bar; G, G, in Figure 1, is an arrangement of lazy tongs levers,
the pins 1 of which pass through the slot or opening E, by which they
are guided in their proper course; H is a piece fixed in the bar D, and
serving as the fulcrum for operating upon the levers G, which may be
K is
actuated by the lever handle I connected thereto, as shewn at Figure 1.
a circular knife attached to the system of levers G by a pin 2; L is a handle
for raising and lowering the bar D and the parts connected with it; M, M,
are cylinders or rollers of wood or metal mounted on axes supported by the
framing A; an endless band of cloth N conducts the leather O, O, through
the machine by the pins 3 and pressure roller 4; P is a cam and Q a lever
fixed upon a short axis q, which is supported by a standard R; S is a rod or
bar working through guides; the lower end of the rod S acts as a pall, and
takes into a ratchet wheel T, fixed upon an axis U, as exhibited at Figure 1;
V is a toothed wheel keyed upon the axis C, for imparting motion to the
cylinders M, through the agency of the pinion W and wheel X, keyed upon
the axis Y; b is a pin 'fixed in the rod S; c, a helical spring. The working of

page_text: this machine is as follows:-Assuming the leather o is placed upon the endless
cloth N, N, care being taken to keep it as nearly square as may be
with the machine, the attendant then lifts the handle L, the effect
of which is to cause the inclined slot or opening in the casting Q to raise the
end of the lever Q, whereby the cam P will be moved, and operating
upon the pin B will depress the rod S, which will cause the ratchet
wheel T to be moved upon its axis, and simultaneously with such move-
ment the cylinder M receives a rotatory motion through the agency
of the wheels V, W, and pinion X, thereby effecting the advancing of the
leather to the required extent. The attendant then presses down the handle
L, by which the hide is firmly held between the edges of the castings B and
D during the time that a strip of leather is being cut off by the knife K,
which is traversed across and through the leather by the levers I and G. In
this manner the leather is cut into strips. I cut or divide these strips into
short lengths by the following means:-I employ two strips of metal A and B,
shewn at Figure 4, between which I place and dispose of the strips of leather
side by side, and close to each other, and I secure them in this position by
thumb screws C, C, C, and I place these strips of leather thus held upon the
endless cloth N, N, at Figure 2, and in the place of the cam P, 1 substitute
such a cam as will impart to the endless cloth N a movement equal to the
required length of the strip of leather, and I then actuate the knife in the
manner before described, and I charge the strips just formed with gutta
percha or coucha, rendered soluble by any of the known means, and under
pressure by any convenient vessel, after which I compress them into pegs by
the means following;-Figures 1 and 2, on Sheet 7 of the Drawing, repre-
sents this arrangement. Figure 1 is a top plan view partly in section, and
Figure 2 is section through the line Z, Z, in Figure 1. A, A, is a bed plate
mounted upon a framing; B, C, D, are moveable slides mounted upon rods
E, E (shewn in Figure 1), for guiding them in a proper direction; G, G, are
projecting pieces fixed to or formed upon the plate H; 1, K, are screwed
spindles for actuating the slide C, D. The screw I passes through a screwed
hole in the cross head L, which is fixed to or formed upon the plate A, and
the screw K takes into a hole formed in the piece M, as shewn; M, N, are
winch handles for giving motion to the slide C, D, which is effected in the
following manner:-Assuming the short length of leather, before mentioned
and described with reference to Sheet 6, to be placed between the pieces
G, G, as denoted by letter a, and the slides C and D to be in the position
shewn, the attendant proceeds to actuate the handle M' in such direction as

page_text: will cause the parts b of the slide C to be brought into contact with the pieces
of leather a, a, the operator continuing to turn the handles until the said
pieces acquire the desired form and amount of compression. Figure 3 shews
one of the pegs in its finished state. The handles N, N, must then be turned
round so as to draw back the slides C and D, and the pieces a, a, being thus
formed into pegs may be removed, and a fresh supply of leather placed in
the machine to be similarly operated upon.
Drawing No. 8 exhibits several views illustrative of some of the modes I
propose to employ for connecting the outer sole of. a boot or shoe to the
inner sole and upper, either of which may be effected in the following manner
and by the following means-Assuming the inner sole to be placed upon the
last, and maintained in that position by the exhausting apparatus before
mentioned with reference to Fig. of Drawing No., I proceed to form
holes in the sole by placing thereon a piece of metal Z of the form exhibited at
Fig. 1, at which Figure it will be seen that there are holes, a, formed through
said plate, the intention and purpose of which is to enable the workman not only
to point out the part to be punctured, but also direction which the said tool
must of necessity take. Now, assuming the sole of the boot or shoe to
be punctured in one or other of the directions exhibited at Fig. 1, I then
proceed to fill up the said holes with a plastic or soluble material such as
gutta percha, caoutchouc, or similar plastic material, applied in a soluble or
plastic state; and I would remark that in some instances I propose to form a
thread or female screw within the before-mentioned holes by means of a screw
tap, or I form circular grooves or indentations therein by means of an instru-
ment arranged, combined, and actuated in the manner exhibited and described
with reference to Fig. 3, at which Figure A, A, marks a metal tube the lower
portion whereof has grooved recesses formed around and about the same;
B, a plunger or rod fitting loosely within the tube A; the lower part of said
plunger is formed taper, as also the whole in tube A, and said tube is split or
divided at the lower part to enable the same to be distended or forced outwards
by the action of the taper portion of the rod B as it is pressed downwards,
thereby effecting the grooving or indenting of the hole, and the holes thus
prepared I propose to fill with a suitable plastic or soluble material, as
whereby I effectually connect together the before-mentioned parts of the boot
or shoe, and at the same time I preserve the flexible character of the sole
throughout. Another mode of connecting together the inner and outer sole
and upper consist in inserting in a compressed state pegs of leather, wood, or
other compressible elastic material or substance, in which case the surface of

page_text: the hole is not required to be indented as lastly above described, but may be
left smooth, as at A, Fig. 5. And I propose where found desirable to employ
pegs of wood, leather, or other compressible elastic material, either separately
or in combination with elastic or soluble materials herein-before and after
described, observing, if thought desirable, the surface of the pegs may be made
rough or jagged to cause the plastic material to have a firmer hold thereon, as
shewn at B, Fig. 5. And in these parts of the soles of boots or shoes which
are subjected to the greatest wear, I propose to employ pegs in combination
with plastic material in manner before described; or, instead of the before-
mentioned modes of connecting together the sole and uppers of boots and
shoes, I propose, when desirable, to form taper holes through the same, as
exhibited at C, Fig. 5, and to fill the same with plastic material in the manner
before stated. Another mode of connecting the soles and uppers together
consists in inserting compressed pegs in holes, and the said pegs, if formed of
compressible material, may be charged or saturated as before described; or I
fasten the soles and uppers together by pouring a small quantity of adhesive
glue, such as herein-before particularly described and referred to; but the
article known as Jeffereys marine glue and chouca will answer the same
purpose, and the apparatus shewn at Drawing No. may be used for
inserting the composition, whether such composition be used separately or in
combination with the pegs before described or referred to; and this mode of
fastening applies more particularly to pegs formed of wood, leather, or other
compressible material, whether the surfaces of such pegs be smooth or
corrugated.
My improvements in the materials to be employed in the manufacture of
boots and shoes consist in a novel mode of preparation of the leather for the
purpose of rendering the same waterproof, which I do by the following means;
this will be intelligible on reference to Sheet 2 of my Drawings:-The leather
or other.substance to be waterproofed is distended over one of the porous
stones herein-before referred to, and by means also herein-before described, tho
atmosphere being withdrawn, the leather is held tightly by the surface of the
stone. The waterproofing composition is then brushed or otherwise laid over
the surface of the leather, and in consequence of the atmospheric pressure it
will be found that the leather or other material will become thoroughly
impregnated and rendered quite impervious to moisture.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my Inven-
tion, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself to

page_text: the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or
refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of my Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-seventh day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.
JULIAN (L.s.) BERNARD.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-seventh day of July,
in the year of our Lord 1852, the aforesaid Julian Bernard came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to
the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Twenty-seventh day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.