IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY
Year: 1886

page_text: I JOHN REECE of Boston in the County of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts
one of the United States of America, Machinist do hereby declare the nature of
my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention is an improvement on the machine represented in the specification
of English Patent No 1814 dated April 27, 1881 granted to William Morgan-Brown
on a communication made to him from abroad by the present applicant, to which
reference may be had; and has for its object to simplify the construction of the
stitching mechanism whereby it is possible to make a firmer stitch with less strain
upon the thread; also to improve the button-hole cutting mechanism whereby the
throw of the cutter may be adjusted to compensate for wear of the cutting bed and
always insure a clean cut; also to improve the construction of the spreading device
whereby the button-bole may be better held in spread condition by the clamping
mechanism; also to improvements in mechanism for controlling the needle thread
whereby the latter is slackened after the completion of the button-hole, and as
herein shown the said thread controlling mechanism is combined with and so as to
be operated automatically by the mechanism which is employed to clamp the
material in which the button-hole is being made; also to improve the clamping
mechanism which holds the material and with the same there has been combined
mechanism for automatically opening the clamp upon the completion of each
button-hole.
Fig. 1 is a side elevation, partially broken out, of a button-hole sewing machine
embodying my invention.
Fig. 2 an under side view of the casing containing the feeding mechanism.
Fig. 3 a top view of the mechanism represented in Fig. 2.
Fig. 4 a section of Fig. 3 in the dotted line x-x.
Fig. 5 a sectional detail and partial plan view of a part of the bed plate to show
some of the devices which enter into the mechanism which controls the automatic
starting and stopping of the stitching mechanism.
Fig. 6 a section of Fig. 5 in the dotted line a¹-x'.
Figs. 7 and 8 sections of Fig. 6 on the dotted lines x-x and x³-x³..
Fig. 9 a section of Fig. 5 on the dotted line *.
Fig. 10 a section of Five 9 un the dotted line mð.
5

page_text: Fig. 11 a partial elevation of the left side of the machine to illustrate part of the
thread slackening mechanism and of the means employed to operate the devices,
not shown, which clamp and unclamp the material being stitched.
Fig. 11ª a detail to be referred to.
Fig. 11b is a detail plan view of part of the devices shown in Fig. 11 for
automatically unclamping the material when a button-hole is completed.
Fig. 12 a detail showing part of the movable frame with the bed-plate and parts
connected therewith to aid in starting and stopping the stitching mechanism.
Fig. 13 a section of Fig. 12 in the dotted line x-x.
Fig. 14 a broken partial plan of the bed-plate showing one half of the clamp
which holds the material and part of the device to operate the same.
Fig. 14 a section of the rear end of finger 22 and under clamping member below
it, in the line y-y of Fig. 14.
Fig. 15 a section of Fig. 14 in the line x-x7, the clamping mechanism having
been fully restored.
Fig. 10 an elevation of the stitching race for the under needle and the looper,
and means to operate the said parts in the proper time as the race is partially
rotated in one or the other direction, carrying with it the under needle and looper.
Fig. 17 a view of Fig. 16 looking at it in the direction of the arrow 17*.
Fig. 18 a rear elevation of the race and throat-plate.
Fig. 18 a view of Fig. 16 looking at it in the direction of the arrow 18*.
Fig. 19 a top view of Fig. 16.
Fig. 20 a detail of parts of Fig. 16.
Fig. 21 a detail of devices for actuating the devices shewn in Fig. 16.
Fig. 22 a section of Fig. 21 on the line x³-x³.
Fig. 23 a broken detail and partial side elevation of the button-hole cutting
mechanism.
Fig. 23 is a detail plan view of the spreader.
Fig. 24 a section of Fig. 23 on the dotted line x³-x³.
Figs. 25 and 26 sections on the line y-y¹ of Fig. 22.
Fig. 27 an edge elevation of the clutch mechanism.
Fig. 28 a cross section of the same, and
Fig. 29 a section of the clutch mechanism in the line 10-10 Fig. 28.
In the machine herein described the movable overhanging frame a, the bed-
plate a¹, provided with the groove k¹ and fixed stud or pin, the casing a, the
main shaft a², its cam b, the strap c, needle-bar-lever c¹, block e³, needle-bar b²,
needle d, the spring arm w', its adjusting screw w³, the sectors e e³, the rod e* to
connect them, the partial gears d2 and 97 actuated by them, the disc f, the link f³,
its attached eccentric f³, pins f' and f³, the connecting link f, the lever g, cam-
disc j, provided with the grooves 6, 4 and 7, rock-shaft i, its lower arm 1², its upper
arms, and roller studs 13, , the under members m of the clamp and their serrated
parts m², are substantially the same as in my said patent wherein the same parts
are designated by like letters.
It may be here stated that the general operation of my machine herein shown is
the same as in the machine covered by my patent herein before referred to, in that
the material is held by a stationary clamp, and the stitch forming and cutting
mechanisms are carried by a travelling frame so that the button-hole is first cut in
the material, the stitch forming devices move along one side of the button-hole to
work the same, then, with a partial rotative movement, around the eye, and finally
back along the second side of the button-hole to complete the same.
The stitch-forming mechanism is at rest while the button-hole is being cut and is
automatically brought into operation when the travelling frame has retreated far
enough to get the cutter out of the way of the needles, and when the button-hole
is completed the operation of the stitch forming mechanism is automatically
suspended.
The longitudinal or travelling movements of the frame a, carrying the stitch-
forming mechanism, are imparted to said frame from the groove 6 of the cam-

page_text: wheel, rotating on a hub attached to the stationary frame. and acting on the
stud attached to the travelling frame, and the slight lateral movements of the
said travelling frame are effected by the rock-shaft l, having arms and 1,
engaging said cam and frame, respectively, all as in my patent aforesaid.
The needle-bar b' in this instance has but one needle, marked d, it having an eye
and being supplied with thread ³ from a suitable spool S, the said thread being
passed under the friction plate d, made adjustable as to its pressure by the nut d³,
and thence under the slack thread controller do.
The thread after leaving the controller is passed through a guide-eyo in a
vertical rod d and then through an eye in a spring-held lever ds, an eye do made
in the upper end of the needle-bar and the three eyes d¹º, d¹³, d¹³ attached to the
needle-bar.
The needle d, at each descent, is caused to penetrate the material at a little
distance back from its edge and when the needle arrives at the edge of the button-
hole, the frame a besides moving longitudinally is moved laterally to cause the
needle-bar and all the stitch forming parts, to be described, both above and below
the throat-plate, to be partially rotated to carry the stitch around the said eye, the
stitching mechanism being so operated by means of the sector e e³, and gears d
and g, the said sectors deriving their movement from the cam groove 4 in the
cam-wheel j, all as in my patent above referred to.
The width of the stitching from the edge of the button hole backward is
controlled by the screw w³ passing through the lower end of the needle-bar and
abutting against the spring needle-carrying arm w', as in my former patent.
The overhanging movable frame a is moved both longitudinally and laterally
as in my patent referred to.
The partial gear g7 has a depending bracket 101 which receives and supports
a horizontal stud A upon which is pivoted the actuating lever 'A', which imparts
motion to the looper 2, and under needle 3 through suitable connecting devices, to
be described.
The lever A is shown as an elbow-lever, the lower arm of which is made ball
shaped, see Figs. 1 and 21, to be engaged by the lever g common to my said
patent.
The lever g joined at its rear end with the connecting-rod f' extended upward
through the centre of the casing at and cam-wheel j, has at its upper end a strap to
embrace the eccentric projection f forming part of the link f
The link has at one side of it, near one end, a pin f¹ which enters loosely a
hole in the disc f and the eccentric projection f³ is provided with a pin f³ on which
is placed a roller f', which latter enters a cam-groove 46, see Fig. 25, in the
stationary cam 45 secured by screw 47 in the bracket 43, rigidly attached to and
movable with the frame a.
The lever A¹ has a pin or roller stud A2 which enters a cam slot A* in the
looper-lever arm A³, attached rigidly by screw A' to the looper-lever A" having its
fulcrum on the screw A° inserted in the raceway block A' having its stem A, see
Fig. 1, rigidly fastened into the sleeve Aº, fitted into the frame-work, the said
sleeve at its lower end having fastened to it the partial gear 9.
The looper-lever A³ has mounted upon it loosely the looper-carrier A10, the
connection being by the screw A, fully shewn in Fig. 20, the said carrier having
at one side of it at its outer end preferably, a roller 4, which as the looper lever A³
is vibrated bears against the cam surface 5, near the upper end of the lever A¹.
The roller 4 is maintained in contact with the said cam surface 5 by one or more
springs, two being herein shewn, marked t and t¹, the said cam surface and spring
or springs serving to impart proper lateral movements to the looper, as will be
hereinafter described, for the formation of the stitch.
The looper 2, connected with the carrier A10 by screw 10, has a point 12 and
a heel 13, and at the rear of the said heel the said looper is bent at 14 to constitute
a throat, see dotted lines Fig. 19, through which the under needle works, the heel 13.
projecting into or toward the centre of said throat so as to spread the loop of the

page_text: upper thread and leave a shoulder behind which the under needle may ascend to
enter the said loop.
The under needle race-way-block A' is grooved circularly for the reception of
the under needle block or carrier B in which the under needle 3 is held by suitable
screws 8, 9.
The face of the raceway-block A' is upwardly and backwardly inclined, see
Fig. 18, with relation to the centre line of the stern A³, iu order that the under
needle 3 may pass diagonally upward and across the path of the vertically movable
eye-pointed needle d, and at the same time place itself in such relation to the
said needle d and the looper 2 that the latter may pass into the space between the
upper and under needles near the eye of the former and the shank of the latter, as
will be described.
The race-way block A' is cut through at its rear side, see Fig. 18° to receive the
sleeve B¹ of the connecting-link B2, the latter being joined with the block or
carrier B by means of the screw pin B³, the rear end of the said link. being joined
to the lever lever A' by the screw B..
The upper end 15 of the race-way block A' is provided with a vertical groove 16,
see Fig. 18 to receive the dovetailed shank 17 of the throat-plate C, the said
throat-plate being thus supported on the said block.
The depending portion 101 of what is called the partial gear 97, see Fig. 1, is
provided with a thread-guide 18, 19, and a suitable tension device 20 to act upon
the under thread, not shewn.
The upper serrated members m¹ of the cloth or material holding clamps are
pivoted at 21 on the fingers 22, in turn pivoted at 23, upon ears 24, rigidly secured
to the lower members m, the said fingers being normally kept elevated by springs 25,
see detail Fig. 14", wherein the said finger, spring and member m are shown in
longitudinal section.
Each finger 22 is provided with an L-shaped link 26, pivoted to it by a screw 27
and extended through a slot in the lower clamp member m, and below the latter
the shoulders of the links are engaged by springs 28 of the arms 29 of a rock-
shaft 30 journaled in bearings, see Fig. 1, attached to the underside of the
plate a¹.
The arms 29 of the rock-shaft 30 are normally held up to relieve the fingers 22
from strain of the springs 28, by a spring 31, see Fig. 11, and the outer free end of
one of the said arms 29 is acted upon by the cam 32, of the cam-lever 33, pivoted
at 34, on the bed-plate a¹, the said lever having at one side a pin 35 against which
acts a spring 36 that normally turns the lever forward, as in dotted lines Fig. 11.
In Fig. 11 the handle 33 is shewn in full lines as depressed or turned backward,
its cam 32 then acting upon the arm 29 to cause the springs 28 to pull down upon
the connecting-links 26 and force the fingers 22 and their clamping surfaces m¹ m³,
against the material to hold it to be cut and stitched.
The cam-lever 33 is held locked in this position by a trigger-lever D pivoted
at D on a stud rising from the bed-plate, the front end of the said lever being
acted upon by the spring latch 37, shown in dotted lines Fig. 11, and in full lines
in the detail Fig. 11° and 14.
The spring-latch 37 has at its lower end a small projection 102 adapted to catch
under the front end of lever D when in the position shown in full lines in Fig. 11,
so as to lift the said end of the said lever when the lever 33 is turned from the
position shown in full lines in Fig. 11. to the position indicated by dotted lines in
said Fig. for a purpose which will be explained further on.
The inner end of the lever D has pivoted upon it a trigger D₁ provided with
a slot to receive a pin 38 which is made adjustable therein and has depending from
it a foot 39.
The pin. 38 is acted upon by a lever 41 having projecting from one side of it an
incline 40, the said lever having its fulcrum at 42, on the bracket 43 of the movable

page_text: The pivoted short arm of the trigger, D2 rests upon a ledge made at one end of
the trigger-rest D³ attached by a screw to the bed-plate, see Fig. 11.
In Fig. 11 the parts are in the position they will occupy when the button-hole
slit has been worked along one side and about the eye, the movablo frame being
about ready to be started forward to enable the last side of the button-hole to be
stitched.
When the frame a was moved backward, or in the direction of the arrow 48,
Fig. 11, the lower side of the incline 40 struck the pin 38, and the latter lifted the
incline and the lever 41 carrying it, and this without at all disturbing the trigger,
but as the frame a starts forward or opposite the arrow 48, the forward or lower
end of the incline 40 strikes under the pin 38, and by the time that the said
pin reaches the highest part of the said incline, the end of the button-hole having
been reached, the pin 38 is sufficiently lifted to cause the pointed end of the
trigger D' to be turned from above the ledge D³, thus permitting the rear end
of the trigger-lever D to descend through the action of the springs 28 before
described.
The pin 38 is adjusted in the slot of the trigger D2 according to the length of
the button-hole.
As the trigger leaves the trigger-rest and the front end of the lever D ascends it
releases the latch 37 and permits the spring 36 acting upon the pin 35 of the said
lever to start the said lever, and the springs 28 complete tlie turning movement
thereof into the dotted line position Fig. 11, in which position the upper imembers
of the clamp will be raised; thus it will be understood that the unclamping of the
material is accomplished automatically.
As the material is unclamped to be removed, the needle thread must be slackened.
This is accomplished automatically as follows:-The rear end of the trigger lever D
is joined by link E with the thread slackening lever de pivoted at E' on a bracket E³,
having an attached spring E' which acts normally to keep the front end of lever d
elevated above the needle thread between the tension devices d and the guide d'.
When the rear end of the lever D) is released through the movement of the
trigger as stated, the lever 33 as before described is started forward and the
latch 37 as it passes from under the lever D lifts its front end, draws down its rear
end, and by the link E causes the thread slackener de to descend upon and pull
the necessary amount of slack thread from the tension device d', and as the
latch 37 passes from the front end of the said lever D, the spring E' is permitted
to become effective to lift the thread slackening lever and the rear end of lever D,
thus leaving the slack thread free to be drawn out through the eye of the needle
for the removal of the work.
The cam-wheel j has a projecting circular rim 50, which is embraced by the
jaws 51 of a dog 49, herein shown as a curved bar, in order to pass the centre of
the cain-wheel.
The end of the dog which is provided with the jaws 51 is acted upon by a
spring 52 which throws that end of the dog forward on the rim 50 whenever the
other end of the said dog is acted upon by the lower arm 53 of a three armed
lever F having its fulcrum on a stationary sleeve t*, see Fig. 5, projecting from the
movable frame a.
The upper arm 54 of the lever F is moved in one direction by the eccentric 55,
see dotted lines Fig. 1, attached to the belt pulley, and in opposite direction through
the spring 52, the belt-pulley being loose on shaft a².
When the cam-wheel is to be turned forward or in the direction of the arrow
thereon, Fig. 3, the arm 53 of the lever F, will be thrown by the eccentric 55
against the end of the dog 49, causing it to turn so as first to bite the rim 50 and
then to carry the cam-wheel with it, the extent of movement of the cam-wheel
depending upon the extent of the movement of the arm 54 of the lever F toward
the eccentric 55, such extent of movement being regulated by the feed regulating
device 56 shown as a screw made adjustable in one of the arms of the said
lever E

page_text: The hub of the cam-wheel j, see Figs..3 and 23, has a cam projection 57 sub-
stantially the same as the cam x, in the patent referred to.
The cam 57 acts upon a toe-piece 58 adjustably secured in a groove in the rear
end of the cutter-lever G having its fulcrum at G¹, and provided at its other end
with a cutter G² of usual construction, the latter being adapted to descend upon
the material resting upon the cutter-block G³, attached to a projecting portion G*
of the casing a secured to the movable frame a.
To compensate for wear of the cutting-block G³, and insure a clean cut, the
beveled end of the toe piece, see Fig. 23, is acted upon by an incline of a sliding-
bar 59, having an attached screw threaded rod 60, provided with a thumb nut 61,
by which to actuate the said slide and regulate the movement of the cutting-lever,
and make its pressure on the block G³ more or less.
The toe 58 of the cutter-lever G is kept in contact with the cam projection 57,
by means of the spring G³, acted upon at its free end by the screw G6, in the
frame a.
The shaft a² has upon it a worm 4, shown in Fig. 22, which actuates a registering
mechanism of any usual and well known construction.
The under members m of the clamp pivoted each as at 62, are drawn together
at their inner ends by a spring 63 attached to pins 64 of the said members.
Each member m, near its inner end at its under side is provided with a roller-
stud 65, and the studs, by the spring 63, one held against the outer sides of the
spreader n, pivoted at n¹ on the casing a*.
When the material is first clamped and the movable frame a is in its forward
position, the studs 65. rest against the sides of the spreader n, back of the inclines
or shoulders n³, where the said spreader is narrowest, and as soon as the material
has been clamped and cut the inclines n' in the backward movement of the frame a,
act upon and separate the roller-studs thus separating the members m, spreading
the button-hole slit just prior to the penetration of the material by the needle d
for the formation of the first stitch taken in the button-hole, the said roller-studs
remaining in contact with the wide part of the spreader until the button-hole has
been stitched all around, the wide part of the spreader being a little longer than
the longest button-hole to be stitched.
In the stitching of a button-hole, when the needle arrives at the eye, the lateral
movement of the frame a is commenced by the cam groove 7 and arms and l³, as
in the said patent, and if the spreader n were rigidly fixed to the movable frame it
is obvious that the spreader acting upon the roller studs would throw the clamp to
one side which would make it impossible to stitch a round or oval eye, and to
obviate this difficulty and prevent the spreader from counteracting the effect desired
to accomplish by the cam-groove 7 which is shaped to give the proper vibrations
for the stitching of the eye, the said spreader has been pivoted so as to turn upon
its pivot as the frame a is vibrated.
To automatically stop the feed movement or the throw of the dog 49 while the
operator is placing the material in the clamp to be cut, the bed-plate is provided
with a feed arresting bar o placed in a groove at its under side and held therein by
the heads of two screws o¹ o³, one at each side of the bar near its ends, that one of
the screws marked o* being shown in dotted lines.
This bar is provided with an adjustable stop os having a depending lug which is
in the line of movement of the dog 49 as it is vibrated by the lever F.
When the frame a is being moved forward to place the clamp in position to
supply it with the material to be stitched, the lever 33 is forward as in dotted
lines Fig. 11, and when in such position the front wall of the recess 66 in the
cam 32 is sufficiently far rearward to engage, at the proper moment, the front end
of the feed arresting bar o which is in line with the said wall or the thick part of
the cam, said bar being adapted to have a limited longitudinal or sliding movement
in a slot in the stationary bed-plate a¹..
As the frame a travels forward the dog 49, in its vibrations, strikes the pro-
jection o³ on the bar o, thus gradually carrying the said bar forward until its front

page_text: end comes in contact with the rear wall of the recess 66 in the cam 32, when the
said projection o³ will prevent the retraction of the dog 49 by the spring 52,
thereby arresting the vibrations of said dog and the rotation of the cam-wheel j,
and thus stopping the forward movements of the frame a which carries the stitch-
forming and cutting mechanisms.
The turning of the lever 33 into its full line position, Fig. 11, to clamp the
material preparatory to cutting the same, removes the thick part of the cam 32
from the end of the feed arresting bar, and the latter being released permits the
dog 49 to be again moved to commence the rotation of the cam j and the forward
movement of the frame a, the front end of the feed arresting bar then freely
entering the recess or chamber 66 in the lower end of the lever 33, so that the said
bar is far enough forward to permit the dog 49 to be retracted by its spring 52
and thus the movements of the said dog and of the parts operated thereby are
resumed.
The operations of the stitch-forming devices are suspended when the button-
hole is being cut and shortly before and afterwards during a part of the time when
the cutter is moving forward to the cutting position and is retreating therefrom,
as in the machine shown in my prior patent, and in order to stop or start the said
stitch forming devices automatically, the bed-plate is provided with a controlling
bar p, having at its under side, near its rear end a recess to receive loosely a
washer p', which latter rests upon the bed-plate and receives through it a bolt p³
upon which, above the bed-plate and controlling-bar, is placed a nut p³, the
construction and combination being such as to permit the front end of the con-
trolling-bar to vibrate horizontally about the said bolt as a fulcrum and yet
restrain it from longitudinal movement without first loosening the said nut, the
said bar being moved from time to time to alter the length of the button-hole.
This controlling bar p is grooved at top along its inner edge to receive an
adjustable slide-bar 67 attached thereto by a screw 69, the front end of the said
slide-bar being beveled or inclined at 103, to permit the toe of arm 70 connected
with the rock-shaft 71 to pass readily from the lower plane of the controlling-bar p
to the top of the slide-bar 67 at a higher plane, the top of the said slide-bar 67
being in the same plane as the high part or edge 68 of the controlling-bar p so
that the said toe may ride upon the slide-bar while the frame a is being moved
backward and while the first half or side of the button-hole slit is being stitched.
The frame a is vibrated or moved laterally by means of the can j, the rock-shaft
and its arms, as in the machine shown by my former patent, as the needle reaches
the eye of the slit, and the outer end of the controlling-bar is swung laterally by a
spring 72 which rests against its outer side, the 'said spring being herein shown as
composed of wire and held by a screw 73.
The side of the controlling-bar next the movable frame a, when the first half of
the button-hole is being stitched, rest against and is held out by means of a vibrator r
made as a slide-bar, see Figs. 12 and 13, the said vibrator being guided in the
movable frame and having a projecting arm 2 which rests against the rod e' which
connects the upper and lower sectors e e³.
As the frame commences to vibrate to enable the needle d to penetrate the
material about the eye, the rod e is carried away from the arm 70 and the
controlling-bar acted upon by the spring 72, is made to move the slide r so that
it follows the rod et and gradually brings the high part 68, or outer portion of the
controlling bar under the toe of the arm 70, where it rests while the other half of
the button-hole is being stitched, the said toe dropping therefrom upon the lower
plane of the said controlling-bar as the last half of the button-hole is finished.
The rock-shaft 71 is provided with a second arm 74 shown in Figs. 5 and 1.
The upper end of arm 74 is provided with a dog 75 which projects therefrom
sufficiently to enter the groove 77 in the clutch-wheel M, secured to the main
shaft a' by the set screw 78, whenever the toe of the arm 70 is on the lower plane
of the controlling-bar p, the dog then acting against the inclined portion 79 of the
friction-plate M placed in a notch or recess at the side of and rotating with the

page_text: clutch, causing the said plate to be moved laterally for a sufficient distance to
disengage the corner 80 from the spring 81, see Figs. 28 and 29, rigidly attached
to the belt-wheel N by a bolt 82, the belt-wheel being loose on the main shaft a².
The disengagement of the friction-plate M³ from the belt-wheel permits the
latter to run loose.
The end 80 of the friction-plate is disengaged from the spring 81 while the end
of the dog 75 acts upon the inclined portion 79 of the friction-plate, and as soon as
the dog reaches the straight portion of the said plate beyond the incline, the said
plate is borne against the adjustable screw or stop 83 with suflicient force to serve
the purpose of a brake or stop, thus causing the rotation of the clutch-wheel and
shaft a to cease, and thereby stopping the operation of the stitch-forming
mechanism receiving its movements from said shaft, as in my former machine.
When released from the dog 75 the friction-plate M springs back to its first
position by its own resilience, one end of said plate being rigidly held in a groove
or recess in the clutch-wheel.
When the toe of the arm 70 is on the slide-bar 67, or the higher level of the
controlling-bar, the end of the dog 75 will be out of the range of the friction-plate.
and the belt-wheel will drive the shaft a².
The toe of arm 70 is held down against the controlling-bar by the spring 84,
attached to a pin 85 fastened to the said arm and to the frame a. To provide for
stopping and starting the stitch-forming mechanism where the toe of the arm 70 is
on the high level of the controlling-bar, as is sometimes necessary, the dog 75 is
slotted, see Figs. 9 and 10, to receive an eccentric pin or stud 76° on the inner end
of a small shaft 76 mounted in the arm 74 and provided with thumb-projections by
which it may be turned.
By means of the said shaft and its eccentric pin working in the slot in the dog 75,
the latter may be moved forward so that its end will enter the groove 77 of the
clutch-wheel M to be in proper position to disengage the latter from the belt-
wheel N, or, the said dog may be moved backward so as to be disengaged from
the said clutch-wheel, thereby permitting the latter to engage and rotate the
belt-wheel.
The belt-wheel N is loose on shaft a' and has attached to one side of it the
eccentric. 55 that actuates the lever F which moves the dog 49 to effect the
feeding movement of the frame a.
The belt-wheel may be rotated constantly, and the frame a be kept in motion
except when the dog 49 is arrested as described by the arresting-bar o.
When the frame a is in its forward position to enable the material to be put
into the clamp and be cut, the toe of the arm 70 rests upon the lower level of the
controlling-bar, and the inner end of the dog 75 is in the groove 77 and acts
against the plate M' to keep it from engagement with the spring 81, but as soon as
the toe of the arm 70 in the backward movement of the frame a meets the inclined
front end of the slide-bar 67, the latter effects the movement of the arm 70,
rock-shaft 71 and arm 74 and withdraws the dog 75 from contact with the friction-
plate M¹ and enables the latter to engage the spring 81 and start the stitching
forming devices, keeping the same in regular motion until in the return forward
movement of the frame a the toe of the arm 70 drops off from the end of the high
plane 68 of the controlling-bar.
In practical work the button-holes to be stitched differ in length and the
material employed is also of various kinds, as for instance thick and thin cloth or
leather, and different users of the machine according to the different work to be
done frequently desire to vary the length of the stitch in the direction of the
length of the button-hole slit and between the commencement and completion of
a button-hole, the stitch being commonly made longer along the straight sides of
the slit and shorter about the eye.
To accomodate for this variation automatically the bed-plate has been provided
with what is denominated a pattern-pla.e 86, see Figs. 1 and 5, it having two
different levels, the said plate being made longitudinally adjustable by a thumb-

page_text: nut 87 placed on the threaded end 88 of the pattern-plate, the said nut being
placed between two stationary ears 89 and 90 attached to the bed-plate.
The lower end of the screw 56, during the movement of the frame a, will, at the
proper times, pass from the lower to the higher level or part of the said plate 80
and shorten the stitch, and vice-versa, the time at which the said screw moves from
one to the other level being determined by the adjustment of the plate 86, and the
part of the button-hole at which it is desired to change the length of stitch.
The cloth or material having been placed between the clamps and the latter
depressed the frame being in its forward position, the cutter lever is operated to
cut the button-hole slit.
As the frame a commences to move backwardly, the button-hole slit is spread,
as described, and the high part of the cam 57 passes from under the toe piece 58,
and permits the spring G³ to elevate the cutter-lever.
This done the stitching mechanism is started as has been stated, and the
needle & penetrates the material at one side of the slit cut therein, and at that end
of the said slit opposite the eye, and the feed movement is continued until the
needle has penetrated the material completely along first one side of the slit, then
about the eye and along the opposite side of the slit, and as the end of the button-
hole is again reached, the stitch-forming devices are stopped, as has been stated, but
the feed is continued until stopped by the arresting-bar leaving the frame a in its
forward position with the material unclamped and the thread slackened.
The needle d having descended through the material resting upon the throat-
plate C, as stated, is slightly retracted to throw out a loop for the entrance of the
point 12 of the looper 2 which enters the loop of needle-thread, and by the action
of roll 4 on the cam surface 5, is moved laterally to carry the loop of needle-thread
out to the lower edge of the button-hole slit, where the said looper dwells while
the under needle rises through the loop of needle thread back of the heel 13, the
under needle being thrust up through the said loop and through the button-hole
slit and diagonally across the edge of the slit and also across the path of movement
of the needle d, the under needle reaching its high point just before the needle &,
in its next descent crosses the curved part of the under needle 3, between its two
eyes, and the needle d, during its further descent enters the loop of under thread
carried by the under neelle.
The needle & descends through the loop of thread presented above the material
by the under needle, and through the throat-plate and a second loop of needle
thread is entered by the looper, the latter entering the said loop just after the
curved needle commences its descent.
The needle d then rises, as 1efore described, and the under needle continues' its
descent, and the needle d completes its ascent as the under needle 3 completes its
descent, thus drawing up the threads to set the stitch, and, owing to the tension on
the upper thread being the strongest, the under thread carried by the under needle
is drawn about and made to cover the edge of the button-hole slit, both above and
below from that point of the material penetrated by the needle d.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
1. In a button-hole stitching mechanism, the combination with a throat-plate, of
a reciprocating needle-bar and its eye-pointed needle d, the race-way block A7, the
needle carrying block, its curved under needle 3, a cooperating looper, and means
for operating said needles and looper, substantially as set forth.
2. The throat-plate, the race-way block A' inclined at one side as described, the
needle block B and its attached under thread, carrying needle, combined with the
needle-bar, needle d, and means substantially as described to actuate the same
whereby the under needle is made to cross the path of movement of the upper
needle diagonally, substantially as described.

page_text: 3. The race-way block A7 the reciprocating needle-bar b¹, and its eye-pointed
needle, the needle-block B, and under thread carrier, combined with the looper
lever, the attached looper lever cam, the looper carrier, the looper and the lever to
operate the said cam, substantially as described.
4. The race-way block A, needle-block B, under thread carrier 3; looper-lever,
its attached cam and lever A' to move the said cam and looper lever, and the cam
surface 5, combined with the looper, and looper-carrier pivoted upon the looper-
lever and moved in one direction by the said cam surface to cause the looper to
carry the loop of thread taken from the needle d to the edge of the button-hole
slit, to operate substantially as described.
1
5. The race-way block A', needle-block B, attached under needle, looper-lever,
looper-lever cam, looper and looper carrier pivoted upon the looper-lever, the
throat-plate, lever A¹ provided with a stud to operate the looper-lever cam, the link
to connect the lever A¹ and the needle-block, the needle-bar, needle d, gears d²
and g, and means substantially as described to partially rotate the needle-bar and
the said race to operate substantially as set forth.
6. The bed-plate a¹, the movable frame a, means substantially as described to
reciprocate and vibrate the same, the race-way A' the needle-block B, attached
under needle, looper-lever, looper-lever Cam, looper and looper-carrier pivoted upon
the looper-lever, the throat-plate, lever A¹, provided with stud to operate the
looper-lever cam, the link to connect the lever A' and the needle block, the needle-
bar, needle d, gears d² and g', and means substantially as described to partially
rotate the needle-bar and the said race, to operate substantially as set forth.
7. In a button-hole stitching machine, the throat-plate, needle-bar, needle d, and
means substantially as described to operate the needle-bar, combined with the
looper 2, cut to form a throat 14, and provided with the point 12 and heel 13, and
with means to operate the said looper, whereby it is made to enter the loop of
needle thread under the throat-plate and carry the loop aside to the edge of the
button-hole slit for the entrance of the under needle, substantially as set forth.
8. The bed-plate, the movable frame, means substantially as described to recipro-
cate and vibrate the same, the race way block A, block B, attached under needle,
looper-lever, looper-lever cam, looper and looper-carrier pivoted upon the looper-
lever, the throat-plate, lever A¹, provided with stud to operate the looper-lever cam,
the link to connect the lever A¹ and block, the needle-bar, needle d, gears, d² and g²,
and means substantially as described to partially rotate the needle-bar and the said
race, and with clamping mechanism substantially as described to clamp and hold
the material to be stitched.
9. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism
to stitch the edge of a button-hole, and a cam having a projection 57, of a
cutting-bed, a, cutter, cutter-lever and a toe 58 attached to the cutter, and means
substantially as described to adjust the said toe.
10. In a button-hole sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism, the cutter-
bed, the cutter-lever, its attached cutter, and the adjusting toe, combined with a
cam to act upon the said toe and vibrate the cutter-lever, adjustment of the said
toe compensating for the wear of the bed, substantially as described.
11. In a button-hole stitching machine the bed-plate, its attached clamp
composed of lower members m m, having surfaces m² m², fingers 22 provided with
the plates m¹, links 26, and springs 28, the rock-shaft having arms 29, combined
with the cam-lever 33 to operate the rock-shaft and close the clamp upon the
material, substantially as described.
12. In a button stitching machine, the bed-plate, its attached clamp, composed
of lower members m, m, having surfaces m³, m², fingers 22, provided with the
plates m¹, links 26, and springs 28, the rock-shaft having arms 29, combined with
the cam-lever 33 to operate the rock-shaft and close the clamp upon the material,
and with the movable frame and pivoted spreader to operate upon the studs 65 of
the lower members m of the clamp, as and for the purposes set forth.

page_text: 13. In a button-hole stitching machine, the bed-plate, the cloth clamping
mechanism, the movable frame a, the stitching mechanisin carried thereby, and the
pivoted spreader combined with means substantially as described to reciprocate
and vibrate the said frame, as and for the purposes set forth.
14. The bed-plate, the cloth clamping mechanism, and the cam-lever to effect the
closing of the said clamping mechanism upon the material to be stitched, the latch
on the cam-lever, the trigger lever, and the trigger to hold the trigger-lever and
retain the cam-lever in position to keep the clamping mechanism closed, combined
with the trigger-rest, movable frame, and lever having the inclined projection
to release the trigger and trigger-lever at the completion of a button-hole and
automatically effect the unclamping of the material, substantially as described.
15. The clamping mechanism for the material to be stitched, the lever to hold
.the said mechanism closed, the latch 37 thereon, and the thread slackening lever,
combined with intermediate mechanism, substantially as described, to release the
lever which holds the clamping mechanism as the button-hole is completed and to
operate the thread slackening lever to draw the needle thread and produce slack
therein to permit the removal of the material from the open clamp, as set forth.
16. The arm 29, the cam-lever 33 mounted on the bed-plate and chambered or
cut away at 66, and the feed arresting-bar provided with the projection o³,
combined with the cam-wheel, and the dog 49, and with means to operate the
said dog until the same is stopped by the feed arresting-bar, substantially as
described.
17. The bed-plate, movable frame, the cam-wheel j, the dog 49, means sub-
stantially as described to operate the dog and rotate the said cam-wheel and the
feed-arresting bar, provided with the projection o³ to be acted upon by the dog 49,
combined with the car 33 shaped to stop the forward movement of the feed
arresting-bar and the vibration of the dog 49 when the cam-lever is in one position,
the cam-lever being cut away as described to permit the feed arresting-bar to move
forward and permit the movement of the dog 49 when the said cam-lever is in its
other position, substantially as set forth.
18. The bed-plate, the tension device, the clamping mechanism for the material
to be stitched, the cam-lever 33, and its attached latch 37, and the thread
slackening lever do, combined with the lever D and connecting link E, substantially
as and for the purpose described.
19. The bed-plate, the cam-lever, its latch 37, the trigger-lever, the trigger, its
adjustable pin 38 and foot 39, and the trigger-rest, combined with the movable
frame and its lever 41 provided with the inclined projection to operate, sub-
stantially as described.
20. The bed-plate, the controlling-bar p having portions at its upper side in two
planes; and the slide-bar 67 therein, combined with the frame a, rock-shaft 71, its
arm 70 provided with a toe to rest upon the controlling-bar, and the arm 74, and
the dog 75 in the arm 74, combined with the main shaft a, clutch-wheel, its
friction-plate, the belt-pulley and its spring 81, and with a spring to keep the toe
of the arm 70 upon the controller-bar, substantially as described.
21. The bed-plate, the controller-bar, the washer p¹, and bolt p, and nut p,
combined with the slider having the projection r', and with the movable frame a,
rod or shaft e', and spring 72 to operate, substantially as described.
22. The controller-bar, rock-shaft 71, its arın 70 provided with the toe, the
arı 74, the dog 75, and means to move it substantially as described, combined
with the movable frame a, main shaft a', its attached clutch wheel, friction-plate,
and loose belt-pulley, substantially as described.
23. The bed-plate, movable frame a, shaft a², loose belt-pulley, and its attached
eccentric, the cam-wheel, dog 49, and means substantially as described to operate
the latter, and the three armed lever F moved by the said eccentric and provided
with the adjusting device 56, combined with the pattern cam having different parts
of its upper surface at different levels, the lever F moving the dog 49 and actuating
the cam-wheel, substantially as described.

page_text: 24. The bed-plate, movable frame, lever A¹, lever g, eccentric link fº, shaft a³,
disc f, and the link f' attached thereto, and provided with an eccentric, and
pins f¹ and f5, combined with the stationary cam 45 in which is received a roller
stud f' on the pin f³ projecting from one side of the said slotted link, all to
operate substantially as described.
25. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the stationary frame
and controlling-bar p thereon, of the travelling frame a carrying the stitch forming
mechanism, the arms 70 and 74, the dog 75, the shaft a³, the clutch-wheel M fast
thereon, the friction-plate M¹ provided with the incline, the belt-wheel N loose on
the said shaft and the spring 81 attached to the belt-wheel and adapted to be
engaged by the said friction-plate, whereby, when a button-hole is completed, the
clutch will be automatically uncoupled from the belt-wheel and the operation of
the stitch-forming mechanism thus suspended, substantially as set forth.
Dated this 20th day of September 1886.
W BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London,
Agents for the said John Reece,