IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WHAT ARE CALLED HORN BUTTONS, AND IN DIES TO BE USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SUCH DESCRIPTION OF BUTTONS
Year: 1841

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
HARRIS, of Hale's Owen, near Birmingham, Horn Button Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Twenty-second day of April, in the fourth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Thomas Harris, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority,
that I, the said Thomas Harris, my exors, adññiors, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said Thomas Harris, my exors, adiñors, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during
the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WHAT ARE
CALLED HORN BUTTONS, AND IN DIES TO BE USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SUCH
DESCRIPTION OF BUTTONS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso,
that I, the said Thomas Harris, shall cause a particular description of the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part
recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto
had, will more fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Thomas Harris, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being
had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked
thereon (that is to say):-
My Invention relates, first, to a mode of applying flexible shanks in the
manufacture of horn buttons.
Secondly, my Invention relates to a mode of ornamenting horn buttons by
inlaying the front surface thereof.
Thirdly, my Invention relates to a mode of ornamenting what are called
horn buttons, by gilding or silvering their surfaces.
Fourthly, my Invention relates to a mode of constructing dies by applying
separate boundary circles to each engraved surface of a die, by which
the process of engraving, as well as the forming, of accurate dies, will be
facilitated.
Fifthly, my Invention relates to a mode of constructing dies used in the
manufacturo of horn buttons, whereby the horn or hoof employed will not be
permitted to be expressed beyond the circumference of the button.
And in order that my Invention may be most fully understood and readily
carried into effect, I will explain the means pursued by me in performing my
Invention.
In the manufacture of what are called horn buttons, as heretofore and at
present generally practised, the material, horn, or hoof used is first cut into
circular discs, called "button blanks," by suitable presses, and such discs or
blanks are then stained or dyed, and while soft a metal shank is fixed into the
centre of each by workpeople, who use nippers or pliars to hold the shanks
when pressing them into the button blanks. These button blanks, when
sufficiently dry, are put into dies consisting of two plates; in the bottom plate
are cavities wherein the shanks of the button blanks are put; the upper plate
has recesses, either plain or ornamented, according to the class of horn buttons
to be made. The lower die containing the button blanks is then heated by a
stove, and the upper plate is also heated and then put on to the lower plate,
and the two together, with the button blanks between them, are then pressed
to form the buttons, and at the same time to fix the metal shanks, and they g
remain under pressure till they are cooled, and thus is a series of horn buttons
produced.
The buttons thus made have then to have the edges clipped smooth and

page_text: finished, as is well understood; and it has been proposed to make horn buttons
having flexible shanks, by fixing the flexible shanks at the time of forming the
button, in the same manner as metal-shanked buttons have heretofore and now
are made, and a Patent was taken for such mode of making horn buttons, but
buttons of that description have never come into the market, and I believe.
the mode could not be practically carried out, owing to the shanks not being
well affixed in the buttons, and the great. pressure and heat which are
necessary to form a button are prejudicial to the well applying of flexible.
shanks; and I have found that although horn buttons with metal shanks are
readily made at one operation, yet horn buttons with flexible shanks require
two processes of pressure in suitable dies beneficially to manufacture them;
the first pressure being applied to the button blanks when in suitable moulds,
subject to the usual high temperature, in order thus to make buttons without
shanks; the second pressure being to fix the flexible shanks and to produce the
ornamental front surfaces to the buttons, if they are to. ornamented,..which
second pressure is performed at, much less temperature and, with much less
pressure than is necessary when forming the button and fixing the shank at
the same operation
Figure 1 represents a lower die of the ordinary construction, such as is used!
in producing horn buttons with plain smooth front surfaces..
Figure 2 is an upper dic, such, as I use in producing the back surfaces of
the buttons, and also to form the recesses or grooves, for receiving the flexible:
shank.
Figure 3 is a button blank of horn or hoof..
Figure 4. shews the form of a button produced by the dies, Figures 1 and 2;
the buttons so formed are now ready to receive flexible shanks, and, if the
buttons are to have plain smooth front surfaces, then, in fixing the flexible
shanks, the same kind of under dic, Figure 1, is to be used; but, if the front
surfaces of the buttons are to be embossed or ornamented, then, in place of
the die, Figure 1, being used, a similar die, having engraved or suitably
ornamented surfaces, is to be used as the under die, Figure 5, and these dies
are not to be heated so highly as, when forming the buttons in the dies,
Figures 1 and 2, which are heated as heretofore; when fixing shanks to
buttons, the lower or face die containing the previously formed buttons is to
be heated till a drop of water will nearly boil, and so that the horn of the
buttons is not so hot but that it might be handled; the shanks are then to bo

page_text: introduced, and the upper or shank die applied, but it is not to be heated.
The upper and lower dies together. are to be submitted to pressure with the
buttons between them, and the upper or shank die or plate will receive
sufficient heat from its contact with the lower or face die; the workman, after
a short experience, will readily judge of the heat requisite for this second
pressure, he being careful to keep the heat down as much as possible, so as
not to injure the fabric of which the shank is composed. It will therefore be
.seen that buttons made by the dies, Figures 1 and 2, are to be placed into
proper under dies, engraved or plain, as above explained; then, when the dies
and buttons are heated, a metal shell or collet with a flexible shank b, and
also the plate of metal c, are to be placed in the groove or recess of each
button a; then the upper die, Figure 51, is to be placed on the lower dio, and
the two altogether submitted to pressure until they are cooled, when the
buttons are to be finished as heretofore. By such means of first forming a
button without a shank by pressure in dies, and then, by a second pressure in
dies, to affix a flexible shank thereto, I am enabled advantageously to
manufacture horn buttons having flexible shanks.
I will now proceed to explain the second part of my Invention, which relates
to a mode of ornamenting horn buttons by inlaying tho front surface thereof.
This part of my Invention is performed in a very similar manner to what has
been above described for fixing flexible shanks, and consists in first forming the
front face or surface of a button in suitable dies producing a recess, then by a
second pressure in dies to fix the ornamental surface, and, when desired, also to
emboss the surrounding front surface of the button.
Figure 6 shews parts of the upper die used in giving the first pressure to the
button blank to produce the button of the shape desired, with a groove or recess
of the proper figure for receiving the intended ornament to be inlayed.
Figure 7 shews a plan of parts of the lower die, and it will be seen that one
half of the dies is suitable for forming horn buttons and fixing metal shanks at
one operation, and the other half of this die is suitably formed for producing
buttons with grooves or recesses at their back surfaces, in order to their having
flexible shanks applied thereto, according to the first part of my Invention;
but the dies may be made for producing only one sort of button, and it will be
seen that only the two ends of these dies are shown, they being broken or
separate in the middle, to indicate that the dies may be of any length the
manufacturer may think desirable.
Figure 8 shews a longitudinal section of the two dies, Figures 6 and 7, with
the horn buttons within them.
Figure 9 shows a front view, a scetion, and a back view, of a horn button

page_text: produced by the dies, Figures 6 and 7, which when completed will be made
according to the first and second parts of my Invention; but if the button is
made according to the second part of my Invention only, then in place of the
button a having a groove at the back, as shewn, it would have a metal shank.
Figure. 10 shews a metal ornament to. be inlaid or fixed on the front surface
of the button; but it should be stated that the ornamenting surface to be fixed
in the front surface of the button may be of pearl or other material, and the
size and device varied, according to taste.
Figure 11 shows the parts employed for the flexible shanks, and are similar
to those before described.
Figure 12 shews part of the lower die for giving the second pressure for
affixing the ornamental surface, and if desired, the remaining front surface of
the button may be ornamented by having the die, Figure 12, engraved or
otherwise suitably ornamented. Figure 13 shews part of the upper die when
flexible shanks are to be fixed at the same time as inlaying the front surface;
but if the buttons have had metal shanks affixed therein in the first pressure,
then there is to be a suitable recess formed in the die for receiving the shank
of each button.
Figure 14 shows a front view or section, and a back view, of a button made
according to the first and second parts of my Invention, that is, having an
ornamental. inlaid surface affixed by: a second pressure of the button in
dies, and a flexible shank fixed by. a second pressure, as above described.
Figure 15 shows a section of the parts of dics, Figure 12 and 13, with
buttons between them. In using these dics, a button a, having an ornament
placed. in the groove or recess, is to be placed in cach of the die surfaces of
the die, Figure 12, and into the groove at the back of each button a is to be
placed a flexible shank, and then the upper die, Figure 13, is placed on the
under one, these, dies being moderately heated, as before described, when only.
fixing flexible shanks, and pressure is to be applied to the dies till they and
the buttons are cooled, the effect of which will be that the ornamental surface
will be fixed by the compression of the horn or hoof, and thus may.various
ornamental surfaces be affixed by pressure.
I will now describe the third part of my Invention, which relates to a mode
of ornamenting what are called horn buttons, by gilding or silvering their sur-
faces. In carrying out this part of my Invention, I make horn buttons with
such ornamented or plain surfaces as heretofore practised, or according to the
means described in this my Specification, and by the aid of a soft brush, I apply
a suitable cementing or adhesive material for causing gold or silver leaf to

page_text: attach itself to the surface of a button, or to a part of the surface of a button,
according whether it is intended to gild or silver the whole or only a part of
the surface of the button. The cementing or adhesive material which I use is
drying varnish, rendered sufficiently liquid by essence of turpentine, but I do
not confine myself thereto, though I believe it best for the purpose; and
the varnish is nearly dry I apply gold or silver leaf, and press it in the same
manner as is practised when gilding and silvering other surfaces. By thus
treating horn buttons, a very novel manufacture of that description of buttons
may be produced.
I will now describe the fourth part of my Invention, which relates to the
construction of dies used in the manufacture of horn buttons. In making
dies for such purposes it is usual to sink and engrave several surfaces on
one plate of metal for making several buttons by one pair of dies, but it has
been found difficult to engrave many patterns, particularly when using
engraving engines or machines, owing to the gravers not being allowed to pass
the boundary line of the sunk surface. It has, however, been proposed to
form the engraved die for making several buttons of two plates of metal, in
which case several surfaces are engraved, each suitable for a button, without
respect to the boundary line of the die for each button; and on to the plate of
metal so engraved a second plate has been fixed, having as many circular holes
as the other plate has engraved surfaces. By this means the lower die has
been formed, but I believe such mode has not come into general use; and
although such plan of constructing dies offers advantages in respect to facility
for engraving the patterns thereon, yet there is considerable difficulty in so
forming the second plate that all the holes therein will accurately fit to their
respective engraved surfaces; and it will be understood that any little inaccu-
racy in the correctly fitting or centering of any one of the several engraved
surfaces on one plate, with respect to its circular boundary, produced on the
second plate (which is affixed to the engraved plate), would be highly pre-
judicial, for which reason probably, this mode of forming dies has not been found
generally successful.
Now the object of this part of my Invention is to pursue a like means in
making the engraved plate, but in place of having several circular boundary
lines in one plate, I apply separate boundary lines to each engraved surface
of the plate, whereby the accuracy of fitting will be ensured, as no one of the
bounding circles of any engraved surface of a plate depends on another such
bounding circle, each being separate one from the other, and consequently
each is capable of separate adjustment and fixing, and will in no way interfere

page_text: with the correctness of the bounding circle of any other engraved surface of the
same plate; whereas in the plan before spoken of, many bounding circles
bening formed in one plate, offered great difficulty to each and every of them
being accurately centred in respect to their engraved surfaces.
Figure 16 shews a plan of part of a die, constructed according to this part of
my Invention; Figuro 17 is a section thereof. Figure 18 is another plan of
the same plate, but shewing it without the boundary circles; and Figure 19 is
a section of Figure 18. ff is the plate, which is engraved at the several
parts 9, 9, 9, around each of which engraved surfaces are circular grooves or
recesses to receive the bounding circles h, h, which fit accurately. By this
means the graver is not confined to move within the bounding line, as the line
is not present when engraving the plate, and the graver may pass beyond, and
the grooves and the bounding circles may readily be made with great accuracy
to each of the engraved surfaces.
The fifth part of my Invention also relates to a mode of constructing dies for
the manufacture of horn buttons.. In constructing dies for manufacturing
horn buttons as heretofore practised, it has been usual so to form them that
the horn or hoof used may slightly escape round the edges, as is well known,
hence, the edges of cach button has to be clipped, or to have the projecting
rough edges removed.
Now, the object of this part of my Invention is so to form the dies that the
bounding circle shall be of such a depth that the counter die may slide within
it and fit accurately, so that the circumference of each button shall be formed
smooth and accurate by the interior of the die, in place of permitting the horn
or hoof of which the button is formed being pressed out beyond the bounding
circular line of the die, as heretofore; and I prefer to make single dies, and to
arrange them, in respect to the counter dies, in such manner that two dies may
be used with each counter die; these dies being intended to be used in those
cases where the horn button with metal shanks, or buttons to receive flexible
shanks, have been first made in other dies.
Figure 20 shows a section of two dies and one counter die, according to this
part of my Invention.
Figure 21 shows a plan and section of the dies separately; and Figure 22
shews two plans and two sections of a counter die, one suitable when fixing
flexible shanks, according to the first part of my Invention, and the other
for aiding in forming horn buttons when metal shanks are used. h', h', are the
dies, having the engraved surfaces i, i, on separate circular discs of metal, such
as have heretofore been used; j is a counter die; and k, a tube, within which
the counter die is held; the object of this tube being to guide the projecting

page_text: edges 1, 1, of the dies, as shewn, and thus keeping the dies and counter die
correct to each other.
Figure 23 shows a section of two dies h, and counter die j, but in this case
the tube k is dispensed with, the dies being deeper sunk, and thus guiding the
counter die correctly.
Figure 24 is a plan and section of the dies h', of Figure 23, separately. By
the use of these dies the edges of horn buttons will be more accurately formed
and require less finishing. This description of dies may be made according to
the mode described in the fourth part of my Invention, that is, by engraving ono
plate and forming the boundary circle separately, as will be understood by
examining Figures 25 and 26, which show a plan and a side section of a die
complete, with its boundary circle formed in a similar manner to what was
described above, and the parts are lettered with the same letters of reference
as similar parts in Figures 18 and 19, and this arrangement of die is suitable
to be worked with the counter die and tube of Figures 20, 21, and 22.
Figure 27 shows the die; in plan and section, without the bounding circle,
and the bounding circle separate, or the bounding circle may be made deeper,
and dispense with the tube k.
Figure 28 shows a plan and section of a die complete, of a variation in the
means of affixing a separate bounding circle to each engraved surface.
Figure 29, a plan and section of the engraved surface separately; and
Figure 30, a plan and section of the bounding circle separately. This die is
made suitable for working without the tube. In using these dies, they are to
be heated but slightly, whether for buttons with metal shanks, or to receive
flexible shanks, and are to be pressed, as heretofore.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, I would wish it to be
understood that I do not confine myself to the precise details, as they may me
made in some degree varied; but what I claim is,-
First, the mode of manufacturing horn buttons with flexible shanks, by first
forming buttons by pressure and heat, and then by a second pressure in dies
to affix flexible shanks thereto, as above described.
Secondly, I claim the mode of ornamenting horn buttons, by causing suitable
surfaces to be affixed in the front surfaces, by pressing the buttons with the
ornaments in dies, as above described.
Thirdly, I claim the mode of ornamenting horn buttons by gilding and
silvering their surfaces, as described.
Fourthly, I claim the mode of constructing dies used in the manufacture of
horn. buttons by applying separate bounding circles to each engraved surface
for a button.

page_text: And, fifthly, I claim the mode of manufacturing horn buttons in dies wherein
the horn or hoof is prevented being expressed at the circumference of the
buttons, as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Harris, have hereunto set my_
hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Nineteenth day of October,
in the year of our Lord 1841, the aforesaid Thomas Harris came before our
O said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form.
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to
the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose."
5
Inrolled the Twenty-first day of October, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-one.