Improvements in the Manufacture of Pile Carpets.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 18th June, 1894-Accepted, 18th Aug., 1894
COMPETE DI BUITICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by EMILE JULES LEMAITRE, of 19, Rue Cambon,
Paris, in the French Republic, Manufacturer.]
Improvements in the Manufacture of Pile Carpets.
I, WILLIAM EDWIN HEYS of 70 Market Street, Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of the present demand for a Patent of invention is to guarantee to
me the property in the process which I have invented as well as the applications of
this process in the manufacture of pile carpets in such a manner as to obtain a
larger number of apparent colours or "grils without employing more wool than in
ordinary work.
In the manufacture of cut or looped pile carpets, in addition to the cotton, jute
or linen warps which form the canvas or backing there are warps of woollen or of
other materials which reproduce between them by the mixture of well harmonised
tints or colours, the design perforated in the cards.
The design is reproduced by means of the Jacquard machine, to the hooks of
which are suspended the lifting cords and the weights with mailed healds.
Through each of these mails is passed a warp thread of the shade of the fabric
which is to be made.
In a width of 0-70 centimeters for example, there are about 240 to 250 threads
passed through from 240 to 250 mails, the healds to which they are attached
corresponding to as many hooks of the Jacquard mechanism and of which the
assemblage is called a "shaft" or "division." These 250 threads proceed from a
frame of bobbins arranged behind the loom, containing 250 bobbins. To each of
these bobbins is attached a ball of lead or iron of determined weight and dimensions
such as will give to the thread the necessary tension for the good execution of the
work. We call this a "gril" in this special manufacture.
If these 250 threads are all of one shade, they form the foundation of the design
which is consequently either all red, all blue, or all cream colour, etc.
In order to obtain the reproduction of a foundation design it will be necessary to
replace certain parts of the foundation with other shades. If the design is
produced upon the width of the fabric, it is necessary to provide a second shaft
(corps) composed of a new number of 250 hooks healds mails etc. Through the
250 mails are passed the 250 threads destined to form the design on any foundation
whatever. These threads come from a second bobbin frame placed behind the
loom and upon which are arranged the 250 bobbins from which the threads are
unwound in proportion to the progress of the weaving. This second gril is
therefore necessary if one desires to produce a design in a single colour or in varied
colours, multiple latticed, upon a foundation united with another colour. These
pile carpets thus composed are called "two gril carpets." (English, "two frame
carpet.")
A fabric with 1 shade foundation & 2 of colour is 3 frame (gril).
A fabric with 1 shade foundation & 3 of colour is 4 frame (gril).
A fabric with 1 shade foundation & 4 of colours is 5 frame (gril).
A fabric with 1 shade foundation and 5 of colours is 6 frame (gril), and so on.
As in these different qualities of carpets all the colours do not come to the
surface at once, but on the contrary one is replaced by another, it is evident that
much of the material is hidden by passing in the canvas on the underside of the
fabric.

page_text: With the new process which I am about to describe I precisely avoid this waste of
wool with a stoppage in the working of the loom longer or shorter according to the
skill of the weaver, and I besides,
"
1, in a two frame (gril) carpet make 3 full colours appear.
2, in a three frame (gril) carpet
3, in a four frame (gril) carpet
4, in a five frame (gril) carpet
"
5
"
"
"
7
"
"
"
9
"
"
وو
وو
and so on in succession without employing more wool than is usual, that is to say
that with my improved manufacture there will not be more wool in a two frame
(gril) with three colours than with two colours; in a three frame (gril) no more
wool in 5 colours than in three; in a four frame (gril) no more wool in seven
colours than in four; in a 5 frame (gril) not more wool in 9 colours than in 5; in a
6 frame (gril) not more wool in 11 colours than in 6, all full colours without double
threads. The point or stitch will not be larger nor smaller than in ordinary work
and to obtain the shades half warps will not be used but entire warps.
There will be no more wools with bits of staple proceeding from the momentary
stoppages and of knots of one or more parts and even of all the wool warp.
I will now explain my process:-
It rests essentially upon the reciprocal and alternate substitution of the supple-
mentary warps for the rising warps, with cutting at the moment of substitution of
the threads coming to form one colour.
I obtain the desired result by three new means.
1. The system of double lifting cords mails and weights, and double frames
(grils) with a single Jacquard mechanism and a single set of cards.
2. The system of simple lifting cords mails and weights and double frames (grils)
with two Jacquard mechanisms and corresponding sets of cards.
3. The system of the use of existing looms and shedding motions, but double
frames (grils) and new sets of cards perforated in a special manner.
EXPLANATION FOR A TWO FRAME (GRIL) CARPET ON THE 1ST SYSTEM.
The first frame (gril) is usually the foundation and this foundation being always
or nearly always uniform, it does not require any alteration or change. It must
remain such as it exists in the tint or shade in order that the outlines of the
pattern to be produced are well thrown up. It might however happen that the
manufacturer introduces shades in the ground or mixings of warps but this does not
concern me and has no connection with the process which I have discovered and
which constitutes my invention. It is in the second frame that I find the means
for bringing out an extra shade.
To do this in the body or part of the jacquard which corresponds with the second
frame :-
1º. I double the lifting cords on the books of the machine after having tied up
each of them in a special hole.
2°. I double the healds mails and weights attached thereto.
3°. I arrange behind the loom a third frame (gril) containing 250 bobbins the
threads from which are passed through these 250 mails. These 250 bobbins have
their threads of any shade other than those of the second frame (gril) which makes
the design or pattern.
These 250 new threads are put through the reed, each of them in place of the
thread it is destined to replace in the pattern. To prevent them crossing each
other or intermixing they are kept on the top of the reed by one or several iron
rods fastened to the hand rail of the sley. When these 250 threads are not
working, they are kept at the necessary tension by the weights on the bobbins in
the frame (gril) and are thereby prevented from mixing with the warp whilst
at work.
The diagram 1, which accompanies the present description, represents the setting

page_text: up of the double lifting cords upon one Jacquard machine for two frame (gril)
carpets and in which the :-
Nos. 1 are the hooks and mails of the ground frame (gril)
Nos. 2 are the hooks and mails of the 2nd frame (gril)
Nos. 2 are the mails and hooks of the 2nd extra frame (gril)
Nos. 2 and 2 are attached to the same hook.
The diagram 2 represents the same setting up for a three frame (gril) carpet in
which:-
Nos. 1 are the hooks and mails of the ground frame (gril)
Nos. 2
Nos. 21
"
"
"
'
"
"
"
2nd frame (gril)
2nd extra frame (gril)
Nos. 2 and 2¹ are the same hook.
"
"
3rd extra frame (gril)
Nos. 3 are the hooks and mails of the 3rd frame (gril)
Nos. 3¹
"
Nos. 3 and 3 are the same hook.
The diagram 3 represents the same setting up for four frame (gril) carpets in
which:
Nos. 1 are the hooks and mails of the ground frame, (gril)
Nos. 2 are the hooks and mails of the 2nd frame, (gril)
Nos. 2¹ are the hooks and mails of the 2nd extra frame, (gril)
Nos. 2 and 2' are the same hook.
Nos. 3 are the hooks and mails of the 3rd frame (gril)
Nos. 3¹
"
دو
"
3rd extra frame (gril)
Nos. 3 and 31 are the same hook.
Nos. 4 are the hooks and mails of the 4th frame (gril)
Nos. 4'
وو
"
"
4th extra frame (gril)
Nos. "4 and 4¹" are the same hook.
The cards revolving around the cylinder lift or lower the threads according
to the holes, and the pattern is formed by the threads attached to the ground,
that is to say by those of the first and second frames. The new threads from
the third extra frame (gril) are not worked into the fabric because they are
not attached to the ground warp but are, on the contrary, left free at the top
of the reed. When the card has reproduced the initial portion of the pattern
and no change is made in the woollen warps then the pattern will be reproduced
in the same shades. Now is the time to use the third extra frame, and one
hook of the machine rings or operates a bell which warns the workman to stop
the loom. The bell may if desired be replaced by any other suitable indicating
or warning device. The iron rod to which is attached the threads of the extra
frame (gril) is now moved to a position slightly in advance of the spot where
the pattern has been stopped and is fixed there by hooks attached to any
convenient part of the loom. Care must be taken to lift all the threads of the
preceding frame (gril) which will cross those of the new frame (gril). They
must be cut level with the fabric and attached to a second iron rod which will
be placed in the position formerly occupied by that carrying the new threads,
which are now to be used. In order to prevent the cut thread being dragged
up by the weights attached to the bobbins it is necessary to employ a retaining
or holding device or they may be held by a boy or other attendant. The loom
is now set to work and, the cards working exactly as before, the pattern is
produced but in a different shade. This is because each hook of the machine
lifts in this instance two threads at once and the weaver only allows the
required one to be operated by fastening it to the ground warp and by putting
in an inoperative position the one which is not required. When the new or
extra portion of the pattern is finished the described procedure is repeated, the
threads from the frame (gril) for the initial pattern being brought forward and
those for the new or extra pattern being thrown out.
To make a two frame (gril) pattern according to my process is required:
1 A ground frame Cœrili

page_text: 2. A first colour frame (gril)..
3. A second colour frame (gril) to replace either partially or wholly the
first at the required time and arranged or designed according to the
pattern to be produced.
For a three frame (gril) pile or looped carpet is required
1. One ground frame (gril).
2. Two colour frames (grils).
:-
In order to obtain the effect of the five colours I proceed as in the case of the
two frames (grils) that is in the body or portion of the jacquard corresponding to
the third frame (gril) I double the lifting cords healds mails and leads and I also
double the creels for the bobbins for the shade frames (grils) that is to say, to make
five colours with three frames (grils) I require :-
One ground frame (gril) of 250 threads.
Two colour frames (grils) or 500 threads, and
Two extra colour frames (grils) or 500 threads to replace the two preceding
frames (grils) either alternately or simultaneously according to the
requirements of the pattern and as previously described.
To obtain seven colours in a four frame (gril) Wilton carpet the following are
required:
One ground frame (gril) of 250 threads.
Three colour frames (grils) of 250 threads each, and
Three extra colour frames (grils) of 250 threads each.
For a five frame carpet giving nine colours is required:
One ground frame (gril) of 250 threads.
:―
Four colour frames (grils) of 250 threads each, and
Four extra colour frames (grils) of 250 threads each.
These proportions are maintained for six seven eight and all other numbers of
frames (grils) in the carpet.
It may happen that some patterns will present_more or less difficulties through
the changing of one or several frames (grils). To remedy this the warp threads
may be divided into several parts each part to work in its turn according to the
requirements of the pattern. Each frame (gril) the primary ones as well as the
extra ones, may also be divided both in front of and behind the reed into as many
parts as the pattern being woven requires.
In certain patterns not in bold designs the total change of all the shades may
give rise to irregularities or breaks in the pattern to prevent which the frames
should be changed only one at once and as much in succession as the pattern will
allow.
The change in colours need not be effected at one time either in one or several
frames (grils). It will happen that only a portion of the frame is to be changed
and that the weaver has to weave a few centimetres before proceeding to change
the next threads. In such cases the manufacturer will select the design most
suitable to this kind of change, thus ensuring an economy of wool without
decreasing the production.
The method of operating one frame (gril) in two three or more parts is performed
in the same way as previously described. The overlooker himself, after examining
each design, will be able to decide in what manner to divide the warps so as to
avoid either cutting or mixing the ground.
In the first system described only one Jacquard machine and one set of cards is
required, in the second system two jacquards and two sets of cards are necessary.
To change the lifting according to the first system it is only necessary to alter
the combing board. In the second system there is fixed behind the first harness a
second one through which the threads required to replace the first ones are passed.
The tie up may contain the ground threads but this arrangement might cause
inconvenience in weaving as the ground thread passing would probably be subjected
to too great a friction or tension.
If however the regular weaving would allow it, the second jacquard to which are

page_text: ttached the ground threads of the first frame and those of the other ext
grils) could work alone when all the frames (grils) are cut together and
f the loom would stop the working of the first Jacquard machine wh
ome into play again when the bell had warned the weaver that the
inished. This stopping of a machine would apply in the cases whe
rames (grils) are replaced at once. It is evident that there is no questi
toppage of one Jacquard machine when there is only need of replaci
wo or more frames (grils) or even parts of frames (grils) simultan
lternately.
The diagrams shewn in Figures 4, 5, and 6 represent the lifting appa
louble Jacquard mechanism the top hooks representing those of the firs
which is in front and the lower hooks representing those of the secon
which is behind.
In the diagram Figure 4 and in the upper first machine,
Nos. I are the hooks and mails of the ground frame (gril).
Nos. 2 are the hooks and mails of the second frame (gril).
In the lower second machine,-
Nos. 1 are the hooks and mails of the ground frame (gril).
Nos. 2 are the hooks and mails of the second extra frame (gril).
In the diagram Figure 5 in the upper first machine,
Nos. 1 are the hooks and mails of the ground frame (gril).
Nos. 2 are the hooks and mails of the second frame (gril).
Nos. 3 are the hooks and mails of the third frame (gril).
In the second lower machine,-
Nos. 1 are the hooks and mails of the ground frame (gril).
Nos. 2 are the hooks and mails of the second extra frame (gril).
Nos. 3 are the hooks and mails of the third extra frame (gril).
In the diagram Figure 6 in the upper first machine,―
Nos. I are the hooks and mails of the ground frame (gril).
Nos. 2 are the hooks and mails of the second frame (gril).
Nos. 3 are the hooks and mails of the third frame (gril)."
Nos. 4 are the hooks and mails of the fourth frame (gril).
In the second lower machine,-
Nos. 1 are the hooks and mails of the ground frame (gril).
Nos. 2 are the hooks and mails of the second extra frame (gril).
Nos. 3 are the hooks and mails of the third extra frame (gril).
Nos. 4 are the hooks and mails of the fourth extra frame (gril).
In the first case, that is to say in the one of a single machine with doul
ords the cords may be trebled quadrupled or even quintupled by pla
ach hook three four or even five cords all of which act similarly. Th
ails attached to the cords are passed the threads of the different sha
sed. To ensure easy working light boards with special holes sufficie
ill have to be used to prevent the threads crossing each other or getting
In this way and in special patterns it is possible to obtain a greater
hades without using any more wool.
To arrive at this result it is necessary to take for the first flower or fig
attern,―
1. The ground frame (gril) and one No. 1 of the 2nd frame (gril)
and after this,
2. The ground frame (gril) and one No. 2 of the second extra fra
When this is woven, is taken,-
3. The ground frame (gril) and one No. 3 of the second extra fra
Then
4. The ground frame (gril) and one No. 4 of the second extra fra
and so on for a setting up consisting of 6 frames (grils) in th
the jacquard.
The same work may be done with patterns having three four and five fran

page_text: but this would lead to greater difficulties owing to the greater number of lifting
cords to be used.
To work this invention with profit it is not advisable to exceed patterns of two
or three frames (grils) which with the addition of the creels (bobbins) and leads.
would give as much work and shades as five six or seven frames (grils).
The third system consists in altering nothing in the lifting motion generally in
use and still arriving at the same result. This is attained by the use of new cards.
with a special reading, that is to say a reading of the pattern where the second
frame should be cut in the second harness and another where the threads of this
same frame should be cut on the third harness through the mails of which would be
passed the extra change threads.
In this way as long as the second frame (gril) is working the extra one is
idle and the wool is neither used nor wasted as it is not woven into the cloth
but is cut and tied up outside it.
The third harness contains the shades required to replace those of the colour
frame (gril) according to the pattern and method of working indicated in the
system with double lifting cords.
The third system possesses the advantage of capability of being used without
any alteration whatever of the lifting motions of the looms in which there are
empty harnesses, but on the other hand its use necessitates the cutting of new cards
by the manufacturer.
To allow of the use of the existing lifting motions the number of parts or
divisions tied up must never be exceeded. Thus if there are five lifting notions
for a five frame (gril) carpet of the ordinary construction then one would give five
colours in the weaving.
The looms will require alteration when it is required to weave with four frames
(grils) which will give according to my process seven colours, or with five frames
(grils) which will give nine colours and so on. For the good working of the
apparatus it is of the greatest necessity that the Jacquard hooks or some other part
of the apparatus rings a bell or otherwise gives a signal and indicates the spot and
time at which the colours have to be changed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is: -
1. In a loom for weaving pile or looped carpets provided with a certain number
of lifting motions for the number of frames (grils) producing a larger number of
surface colours without using core wool than in the ordinary process by alternately
and reciprocally substituting other warps for those which have formed a colour and
which are cut and tied up.
2. In a loom of the type described in the previous claim and for the same purpose
there set forth, the use of double lifting cords, mails, leads, and an ordinary frame
(gril) and an extra frame (gril) with only one Jacquard machine and one card.
3. In a similar loom and for the same purpose the use of single lifting cords,
mails, leads, an ordinary frame (gril) and an extra frame (gril) with two Jacquard
machines and two similar cards.
4. In a similar loom and for the same purpose the use with the lifting motion of
an ordinary frame (gril) and an extra frame (gril) and the employment. of new
cards cut in the special manner indicated in the Specification.
Dated this 16th day of June A D 1894
WILLIAM E. HEYS.