Improvements in Corsets.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 9th Oct., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 28th Dec., 1897--Accepted, 12th Feb., 1898
Improvements in Corsets.
I, DANIEL KOPS, residing at No. 216 East 58th Street, New York, in the County
and State of New York, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates particularly to corsets having abdominal characteristics,
and the object of the same is to make the lower portion of the corset at the front
yielding, that it may more perfectly conform to the abdominal curvature, both
vertically and horizontally, and also to assist in supporting the abdomen, with a
tendency to reduce the same.
In carrying out my invention, I form open fold plaits in the fabric body of the
corset at the front portion, these plaits being nearly vertical and located between
the bone pocket strips and extending from the lower portion of the waist to approxi-
mately the bottom edge of the corset. These open fold plaits commence near the
waist line and increase to the maximum width, and then decrease and terminate
approximately at the bottom edge of the corset. These plaits in use open more or
less as the corset front conforms to the abdominal curvature, and in order to give
these plaits ample room for movement, I form the bone pocket strips in a peculiar
manner so that their surfaces are elevated above the surface of the corset body and
allow the plaits of the fabric body to go under the over-laying flaps. Each bone
pocket is formed from a strip of fabric whose edges are folded and
then folded over 80 that the edges
of the first folds almost touch
in the centre. Three lines of sewing are preferably employed in securing each
strip to the fabric body, one line of stitches being central and the others about mid-
way to the edges: thus pockets are formed for two bones and edge flaps at the
sides thereof, but I do not limit myself in this particular. These flaps may, in
very large size corsets, be utilised as bone pockets. I employ tapering straps placed
diagonally and having eyelet holes to connect with a downward pointing hook on
one front steel near the lower end. These straps are secured along an upright edge
to the lower portion of the corset near the sides and hips, and their object is to
hold in towards the body the lower part of the corset and prevent an outward move-
ment of the same, and also to provide the requisite tension and control the extent to
which the plaits are extended, the straps drawing in a diagonal line extending over
the hips.
I prefer, and usually employ, a single ply fabric body, but do not confine myself
thereto, because in the manufacture of colored cloth corsets, it is usually necessary
to make the same with a lining of light colored fabric intervening between the
colored cloth and the wearer's undergarments to prevent perspiration drawing the
colour and causing it to discolour the undergarments.
100
Dateu
this 9th day of October 1907.
ERNEST DE PASS,
Chartered Patent Agent,
78, Fleet Street, London, and 5A, Market Street, Nottingham.
Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: I, DANIEL KOPS, residing at No. 216 East 58th Street, New York, in the County
and State of New York, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates particularly to corsets having abdominal characteristics,
and the object of the same is to make the lower portion of the corset at the front
yielding, that it may more perfectly conform to the abdominal curvature both
vertically and horizontally, and also to assist in supporting the abdomen, with a
tendency to reduce the same.
In carrying out my invention, I form open fold plaits in the fabric body of the
corset at the front portion, these plaits being nearly vertical and located between
the bone pocket strips and extending from the lower portion of the waist to
approximately the bottom edge of the corset. These open fold plaits commence
near the waist line and increase to the maximum width and then decrease and
terminate approximately at the bottom edge of the corset. These plaits in use open
more or less as the corset front conforms to the abdominal curvature, and in order
to give these plaits ample room for movement, I form the bone pocket strips in a
peculiar manner so that their surfaces are elevated above the surface of the corset
body and allow the plaits of the fabric body to go under the overlaying flaps.
Each bone pocket is formed from a strip of fabric whose edges are folded and then
folded over so that the edges of the first folds almost touch in the center. Three
lines of sewing are preferably employed in securing each strip to the fabric body,
one line of stitches being central and the others about midway to the edges; thus,
pockets are formed for two bones and edge flaps at the sides thereof, but I do not
limit myself in this particular. These flaps may, in very large size corsets, be
utilized as bone pockets. I employ tapering straps placed diagonally and having
eyelet holes to connect with a downward pointing hook on one front steel near
the lower end. These straps are secured along an upright edge to the lower portion
of the corset near the sides and hips, and their object is to hold in towards the body
the lower part of the corset and prevent an outward movement of the same, and also
provide the requisite tension and control the extent to which the plaits are
extended, the straps drawing in a diagonal line extending over the hips.
I prefer and usually employ a single ply fabric body, but do not confine myself
thereto, because in the manufacture of colored cloth corsets, it is usually necessary
to make the same with a lining of light colored fabric intervening between the
colored cloth and the wearer's undergarments to prevent perspiration drawing
the color and causing it to discolor the undergarments.
In the drawing, Figure 1 is an elevation of a corset made according to my inven-
tion, and Fig. 2 is a similar elevation, but with the straps turned back. Fig. 3 is
an edge view of the corset, showing the curvature. Fig. 4 is an elevation of part
of the lower front portion of the corset in the normal position with the plaits
contracted. Fig. 5 is a section in enlarged size at the line a, a of Fig. 2. Fig. 6 is
a section in enlarged size at the line y, y of Fig. 4. Fig. 7 is a cross section showing
the folds of a bone pocket strip as opened for clearness. Fig. 8 is a cross section in
enlarged size, showing a bone pocket strip and the edge flaps. Fig. 9 is a cross
section similar to Fig. 8, showing small bones in the edge flaps; and Fig. 10 is an
elevation of a portion of the single ply fabric body, showing the tapering open
fold plaits.
The fabric body of the corset is represented at a, and a¹, the bone pocket strips
at b, the front steel at c c¹, the hook on the lower portion of one steel at c², and the

page_text: tapering inclined straps at d d', each having a row of eyelets adjacent to its ends.
The fabric body a is single ply and of more flexible material than the single ply
fabric body a', the fabric body a being preferably used in the front portion of the
corset, and the heavier fabric body a¹ in the back and sides and over the hips,
and I prefer, with the fabric body a, to make the fronts of the corset of three vertical
tapering pieces cut conforming to patterns, the same running from the upper to
the lower edges of the corset, the narrowest part being in the waist portion of the
corset, the lines of stitching joining these strips being preferably directly behind
the center of the bone pocket strips, but I do not limit myself in this particular.
The front portions of the corset between the lower part of the waist and the lower
edge of the corset are formed with open fold plaits. The open fold plaits e ele are
between the bone pocket strips and are shown especially in the enlarged views
Figs. 5 and 6. They commence to diverge near the waist line and increase as they
extend downward to a maximum width and then decrease to points at the bottom
edge of the corset, as shown in Fig. 10. They are preferably formed by hand in
the flexible single ply fabric body and pressed to shape and place by a hot iron and
without the employment of any lines of sewing and the respective pointed ends of
the open fold plaits are preferably held to their folded shape by a means, such as
the inner waist band and the edge binding, to fix the said pointed ends and assist the
folding action. In order to make these plaits effective in use, it is necessary
to make the bone pocket strips in a particular way. This is shown in the enlarged
views Figs. 5 to 9, inclusive, and especially in Fig. 7. These bone pockets are
formed from strips of fabric whose respective edges are folded as shown at 2, 3,
and are then folded over at the edges 4, 5. These strips are then pressed or ironed
out to flatten the folds, in which position the edges of the first folds 2, 3, almost
touch in the center. It will thus be seen that three thicknesses are brought
together and united to the fabric body of the corset. I prefer to employ three lines
of sewing in securing each bone pocket strip to the fabric body, one line of sewing
in the central portion of the strip and each other line being just inside the free
edges of the strip. When the strips are thus secured to the fabric body, the spaces
between the lines of sewing form the bone pockets, outside of which are formed the
edge flaps. In all usual cases I prefer to use these edge flaps, as shown in
Figs. 5, 6 and 8, without bones; but in large size corsets, small thin bones, as shown
in Fig. 9, may be inserted. This construction elevates the bone pocket strips and
consequently the edge flaps above or away from the fabric body.
In the normal position of the bone pocket strips (shown in Fig. 4) the edges of
the edge flaps almost touch one another, and being located free from the surface of the
fabric body, space is left for the open fold plaits between the bone pocket strips,
so that in the normal position of the corset, these edge flaps cover the plaits, as
seen in Figs. 4 and 6, and in use when the clothing is outside of the corset, a space
is left in which these plaits are free to move and fold or unfold as the corset
conforms to the figure of the wearer.
In Figs. 1, 2 and 5 of the drawings, the corset is shown as in use with the open
fold plaits extended. This condition is shown especially in the enlarged view
Fig. 5, the extending of the plaits causing the curvature to the corset over the
abdomen. The corset can be extended more or less at the plaits or folds to suit
the figure of the wearer. The tapering straps are shown at dd. These are secured
along the upright edges to the lower front portions of the corset near the sides
and hips and preferably between the bone pockets 6 and the single ply fabric
body of the corset, and these straps extend downward and conform at the lower
edges to the lower edge of the corset, and the tapering ends are provided with rows
of eyelets. These straps can be hooked upon the downward pointing hook c,
secured, preferably, upon the edge stud-steel of the corset, and the object of said
straps is to control the extent to which the plaits are opened and to apply the
desired tension to the lower central portion of the corset and at the same time to
hold the steels toward the body of the wearer and prevent an outward movement
and cause the front of the corset to conform as nearly as possible to the figure of

page_text: the wearer and tend to act as a support to the abdomen, and it will be seen that these
straps draw in a diagonal line extending over the hips. I prefer to place the hook ca
on the stud member of the steels, so as to cause the strap din passing over the
hook-steel and fastening to the stud steel to press the hook steel back, and in so.
doing prevent the corset unhooking or unfastening in use.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-.
First: A corset having à fabric body and bone pocket strips upon the surface
thereof, and a series of open fold plaits in the fabric body at the lower front
portions of the corset, beginning at about the lower edge of the waist line and
extending to approximately the bottom edge of the corset and located between the
bone pocket strips, substantially as set forth.
Second: A corset having a fabric body and bone pocket strips upon the surface
thereof and a series of open fold plaits in the fabric body at the lower front portions
of the corset beginning at about the lower edge of the waist line and extending to
approximately the bottom edge of the corset, said plaits beginning at their upper
pointed ends and increasing as they extend downward to a maximum width and
then decreasing to their lower pointed ends adjacent to the bottom edge of the
corset and located between the bone pocket strips, substantially as set forth.
Third: A corset having a single ply fabric body with open fold plaits in said
single ply fabric body at the front portions of the corset beginning at about the
lower edge of the waist line and extending to approximately the bottom edge of the
corset and having bone pocket strips located between the lines of plaits, said bone
pocket strips having edge flaps that extend over the plaits, substantially as and for
the purposes set forth.
Fourth In a corset, the combination with the single ply fabric body and the
bone pockets having edge flaps, of series of open fold plaits in the single ply fabric
body coming between the bone pockets and tapering straps secured along an upright
edge to the lower front portion of the corset near the sides and hips and having
eyelets and a downward pointing hook near the lower edge of one of the corset
steels to which said tapering straps may be connected, substantially as and for the
purposes set forth.
Fifth The combination in a corset with the fabric body, the bone pocket strips
and the steels, of a downward pointing hook upon the lower end of the stud steel,
straps secured along an upright edge to the lower front portion of the corset neur
the sides and hips and whose upper edges taper downward and whose lower edges
correspond with the lower edges of the corset, and having eyelets in their tapering
ends adapted to receive the hook and thus connect them to the lower edge of the
corset, whereby one strap extends over the hook-steel to press the same inward and
prevent the unhooking of the steels in use, substantially as and for the purposes
set forth.
Sixth A corset having a single ply fabric body and bone pockets formed of
strips of fabric folded along the respective edges and then folded over to bring the
first folded edges almost in contact at the central part of the strip, the same being
sewed upon the surface of the single ply fabric body by lines of sewing which form
pockets for the reception of the bones or steels, and at the same time form flaps
along the respective edges of said bone pocket strips, substantially as set forth.
Seventh: In a corset, the combination with the single ply fabric body and the
bone pockets having edge flaps and sewed to the single ply fabric body, of series
of open fold plaits in the single ply fabric body coming between the bone pockets,
said open fold plaits being located at the lower front portions of the corset begin-
ning at their upper pointed ends at about the lower edge of the waist line and
increasing as they extend downward to a maximum width and then decreasing to
their lower pointed ends adjacent to the bottom edge of the corset, and tapering
straps secured along an upright edge to the lower front portion of the corset near

page_text: the sides and hips and having eyelets and a downward pointing hook near the lower
edge of one of the corset steels to which said tapering straps may be connected,
substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
Eighth In a corset, the combination with the single ply fabric body and the
bone pockets having edge flaps and sewed to the single ply fabric body, of series
of open fold plaits in the single ply fabric body coming between the bone pockets,
said open fold plaits being located at the lower front portions of the corset begin-
ning at their upper pointed ends at about the lower edge of the waist line and
increasing as they extend downward to a maximum width, and then decreasing to
their lower pointed ends at approximately the bottom edge of the corset, substan-
tially as and for the purposes set forth.
Ninth A corset having a single ply fabric body and bone pockets formed of
strips of fabric folded along the respective edges and then folded over to bring
the first folded edges almost in contact at the central part of the strip, the same
being sewed upon the surface of the single ply fabric body by lines of sewing
which form pockets for the reception of the bones or steels, and at the same time
form flaps along the respective edges of said bone pocket strips, and series of open
fold plaits in the single ply fabric body coming between the bone pockets, said
open fold plaits being located at the lower front portions of the corset, beginning
at their upper pointed ends at about the lower edge of the waist line and increasing as
they extend downward to a maximum width and then decreasing to their lower
pointed ends at approximately the bottom edge of the corset, said flaps extending
over and covering said plaits when the corset is not in use, substantially as and for
the purposes set forth.
Dated this 28th day of December 1897.
ERNEST DE PASS,
Chartered Patent Agent,
78, Fleet Street, London, and 5A, Market Street, Nottingham,
Agent for the Applicant.