IMPROVED APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN MANUFACTURING GARMENTS AND OTHER ARTICLES FROM WATERPROOF FABRICS
Year: 1884

page_text: I HARRIS MARKUS of Fleetwood in the County of Lancaster India Rubber and
Waterproof Garment Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for IMPROVED APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN MANUFACTURING GARMENTS AND
OTHER ARTICLES FROM WATERPROOF FABRICS to be as follows :-
"
,,
This invention relates to the manufacture of overcoats, cloaks, overalls aprons,
sponge bags, and other articles from waterproof cloth, the object of the invention
being to construct apparatus whereby such articles can be made by machinery.
The apparatus consists of a suitable frame supporting various rollers and other
devices (hereinafter described) for performing the different operations required.
The waterproof fabric is cut out to the various forms required in the ordinary
manner.
In making a seam to join two pieces together the first thing necessary is to apply
a coating of india rubber solution (or varnish as it is called) for a certain definite
width along the edge of the fabric.
For this purpose I employ two rollers the lower one of which dips in a trough of
solution or has the solution applied to it by a brush or other similar device, and is
provided with a gauge which regulates the width and thickness of the layer of
solution applied.
This lower roller is caused to revolve by a treadle or otherwise and thus feeds
the fabric along at the same time that it applies the solution.
The upper roller acts as a pressing roller only and is supported in a fork at the
lower end of a vertical rod which is capable of sliding up and down in suitable
bearings so as to raise the roller up for introducing the work and then lower it
again, the requisite pressure being given by means of a weight or spring.
The next process is to turn the prepared edge of the fabric over so as to form a
kind of hem. For this purpose the apparatus is provided with a device similar to
the "hemmer" of an ordinary sewing machine followed by a pair of rollers. The
edge of the other piece of fabric to form the seam is now prepared in the same
imanner, but on the reverse side of the fabric, and one of these hems is now passed
through the varnishing rollers first described so as to receive a fresh breadth of
solution or varnish, and when this is dry the two edges are pressed together to
make the seam between a pair of plain rollers with which the apparatus is
provided.

page_text: The prepared fabric is fed to the rollers and guided by hand in a similar manner
to an ordinary sewing machine and either straight or curved seams can easily and
rapidly be made by means thereof.
All raw edges are turned over and cemented by the varnishing roller and
hemmer above described, and tapes are cemented and applied to these hemmed
edges in the saine manner.
For making wide facings I attach to the apparatus a device somewhat like &
double "hemmer" which turns over both edges of the fabric and causes them to
meet in the middle which double "hemmer" is also followed by a pair of rollers to
press down the fabric at the same time that it draws it through the hemmer, the
edges of the same having been previously varnished by the means above described.
When these facings are dry they are applied to the inside edge of the garment in
the same manner.
For fixing patches on the places where button holes are to be formed or buttons
sewn on I also employ a pair of rollers one of which is made with a recess (or
recesses) suitably formed to contain a number of the patches, which are pressed
forwards by means of a spring so that the outermost patch is level with the surface
of the roller. As the latter revolves, with the fabric passing between the two, it
delivers one patch at a time at the required distances apart at or near to the edge
of the fabric, the patches on the fabric being previously varnished with solution by
means of a varnishing roller, as before described, to cause them to adhere.
T
201 T
700
GEORGE DAVIES,
Agent for the Applicant,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.

page_text: I HARRIS MARKUS of Fleetwood in the County of Lancaster India Rubber and
Waterproof Garment Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for "IMPROVED APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN MANUFACTURING GARMENTS AND
OTHER ARTICLES FROM WATERPROOF FABRICS" and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:―
This invention relates to the manufacture of overcoats cloaks, overalls, aprons,
sponge bags, and other articles from waterproof cloth, the object of the invention
being to construct apparatus whereby such articles can be made by machinery.
The apparatus consists of a suitable frame supporting various rollers and other
devices, (hereafter described) for performing the different operations required.
Such being the nature, and object of my said invention I will now proceed to
describe in detail the manner in which the same is to be performed or carried into
practical effect, and in order that the same may be clearly understood I have
annexed hereunto a sheet of drawings illustrative thereof and have marked the
same with figures and letters of reference corresponding with those in the following
explanation thereof.
Fig. 1. in the drawing is a transverse section and Fig. 2. a side elevation of my
improved apparatus.
Figs 3. 4. 5 and 6 are detached views of various parts hereinafter described
a, a is the framing of the apparatus b, b the driving shaft to which rotary motion
from a treadle, crank, or other source of power is communicated by a band passing
around the grooved pulley c, c keyed thereon.
The waterproof fabric is cut out to the various forms required in the ordinary
manner.
In making a seam to join two pieces together the first thing necessary is to
apply a coating of india rubber solution (or varnish as it is called) for a certain
definite width along the edge of the fabric. For this purpose I employ two
rollers & and e the lower one d of which dips in a trough f, f of solution or has the
solution applied to it by a brush or other similar device, and is provided with a
gauge g, g which regulates the width and thickness of the layer of solution applied.
This lower roller d is keyed on the driving shaft b, b and is caused to revolve by
a treadle or otherwise, and thus feeds the fabric along at the same time that it
applies the solution. The upper roller e, e acts as a pressing roller only and is
supported in a fork h, h at the lower end of a vertical rod i, i which is capable of
sliding up and down in suitable bearings in the frame a, a so as to raise the
roller e, e up for introducing the work and then lower it again, the requisite
pressure being given by means of a weight or spring k, k.
I sometimes make the top roller the varnishing roller, in which case it revolves
through an opening in the bottom of the trough as shown at Fig 5. or it may be
supplied with varnish or solution by means of a carrier roller or brush from another.
roller which runs in the varnish or solution in the trough; g', g¹ is an adjustable
guide for regulating the width of the solution applied to the fabric. Or instead of
the varnishing rollers, the trough may be made with an opening to supply the
solution, followed with a pad or gauge for spreading the same.

page_text: •
The next process is to turn the prepared edge of the fabric over so as to form a
kind of hem. For this purpose the apparatus is provided with a device 1, 1 (see
Fig. 3) similar to the "hemmer" of an ordinary sewing machine followed by a pair
of rollers or it may be fixed in front of the rollers d, e above mentioned.
The edge of the other piece of fabric to form the seam is now prepared in the
same manner but on the reverse side of the fabric, and each of these hems is now
passed through the varnishing rollers first described so as to receive a fresh breadth
of solution or varnish and when this is dry, the two edges are pressed together to
make the seam between a pair of plain rollers with which the apparatus is also
provided.
The prepared fabric is fed to the rollers and guided by hand in a similar manner
to an ordinary sewing machine, and either straight or curved seams can easily and
rapidly be made by means thereof.
All raw edges are turned over and cemented by the varnishing roller e and
hemmer above described, and tapes are cemented and applied to these hemmed
edges in the same manner.
For making wide facings I attach to the apparatus a device m, m Fig. 4. some-
what like a double "hemmer" which turns over both edges of the fabric and causes
them to meet in the middle, which double "hemmer" is also followed by a pair of
rollers to press down the fabric at the same time that it draws it through the
hemmer, the edges of the same having been previously varnished by the means
above described.
When these facings are dry they are varnished and applied to the inside edge of
the garment in the same manner.
For fixing patches on the places where button holes are to be formed or buttons
sewn on I also employ a pair of rollers one of which (see Fig. 6) is made with a
recess (or recesses) n n suitably formed to contain a number of the patches, which
are pressed forwards by means of a spring o, o so that the outermost patch is level
with the surface of the roller. As the latter revolves with the fabric passing
between the two, it delivers one patch at a time at the required distances apart at
or near to the edge of the fabric, the patches and the fabric being previously
varnished with solution by means of a varnishing roller, as before described to
cause them to adhere.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
The apparatus for manufacturing garments and other articles from waterproof
fabrics substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by the drawings
annexed.
Secondly I claim the combination of automatic revolving varnishing rollers (one
of which is movable to introduce the fabric) with suitable gauges and with guides
and hemmers for turning in the edges of the fabric as required, one of the said
rollers revolving in a trough of india rubber solution, or being supplied with the
same by means of a carrier roller or brush as above described and
Thirdly I claim the recessed roller provided with a spring or springs for fixing
on the patches for buttons and button holes substantially as described.
Dated this 20th day of March 1885
GEORGE DAVIES,
Agent for the Applicant,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.