Improvements in Gloves.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd July, 1889
Complete Specification Left, 2nd Apr., 1890-Accepted, 3rd May, 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Gloves.
We SAMUEL HOPE MORLEY of the firm of J. & R. Morley of 18 Wood Street,
in the City of London, Manufacturer and Warehouseman, and CHARLES LACEY of the
same place in the employment of the said firm, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
These improvements relate to the method of cutting the material of gloves, which
are cut and made from sheets of material, to be afterwards sewn or united, in contra-
distinction to gloves that are manufactured in the frame or knitted to shape.
The object of the invention is economy of material, facility of manufacture and
improvement of appearance in the finished article, particularly in avoiding any seam
at the back or palm-around the fleshy part of the thumb and with consequent
avoidance of injury or pressure on the parts of the hand underlying such seam.
In carrying out our invention we cut the material for the entire glove in one
piece-back and front or one piece each for back and front except the usual fourchetts
and in this glove a small quirk which may, if desired, be inserted at the base of the
thumb pipe. The back and front portions are joined commencing at the top of the
thumb, up and down such finger to outside the little one and right down the glove
to the wrist, to the full extent of the glove in the case of a jersey buttonless or long-
glove, passing up the arm to the full extent of the glove or so far as may be desired.
This joining is only that arising from the non-severance of the material when the two
parts are folded together. From the top of the thumb over and down the other side
of the two superposed layers of material to the fork of the thumb where the quirk
will be inserted if used then up the outer side of the dexter finger over and down the
inner side and so on up and down each finger with the introduction of the usual
fourchetts, to the outside of the little finger and down the side of the hand, and in
long gloves up the arm, the junction is by usual stitching or means of union.
In order to make clear the method of forming the glove according to the present
invention we have shown a sketch or outline of one cut of glove before folding or
further manufacture. The dotted line A-A indicates the line on which the glove
material will be folded for further manufacture.
. If the glove is made in one piece by folding on the line of adjacent little fingers
the cut of glove must be slightly modified so as to make the straight and curved
sides the opposite of those illustrated so as to insure correct adjustment in the finished
glove. Or the material (except fourchetts and a quirk if needed) may be folded on
the line of the exterior of the little finger and of the outside or thumb side of the
dexter finger the join being down the palm on a line commencing at or about the fork
of the dexter and third finger down to the fork of the thumb up, over and down the
thumb, palm and wrist or wrist and arm as the case may be.
Or where the back half glove according to another modification is cut in one piece
and the front half glove in another piece and is sewn up around the external edges,
the only difference from those already described will be the absence of the fold or
folds at the junction of the two pieces and the substitution of junction by sewing the
advantages of avoidance of seams around the balls or fleshy thick bases of the
thumbs.
The material for the glove may be fabric, leather, skin or other usual or suitable
material.
In some cases we do not entirely unite the side of the glove but leave a portion to
be laced, buttoned or otherwise drawn together that is to say:-a slit (which would
afterwards be sewn up) may be cut below the ball of the thumb extending either part
way or the whole distance to the top of the arm with the view of allowing sufficient

page_text: material to be taken out at the wrist to insure the glove fitting closely to the arm;
or in the case of a buttoned glove the usual button slit would be cut between the ball
of thumb and the side seam; or that portion may be wholly joined, but the parts
tightened up by lacing and eyelet holes.
Dated the 3rd day of July 1889
WM. BBOOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Gloves..
We SAMUEL HOPE MORLEY of the firm of J. & R. Morley of 18 Wood Street, in the
City of London,, Manufacturer and Warehouseman, and CHARLES LACEY of the same
place in the employment of the said firin, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
These improvements relate to the method of cutting the material of gloves,
which are cut and made from sheets of material, to be afterwards' sewn or united,
in contra-distinction to gloves that are manufactured in the frame or knitted to
shape.
The object of the invention is economy of material, facility of manufacture, im-
provement of appearance, and comfort in wear in the finished article particularly in
avoiding seaming: at the back, or at the palm or at both back and palm or
around the fleshy part of the thumb, and with consequent avoidance of injury or
pressure at the part of the hand underlying such seam.
In carrying out our invention we cut the material of the entire glove in one piece
back and front, or we cut it in one piece each for back and one piece for front,
excepting the usual fourchetts, and in this glove a small quirk, which may be if desired
inserted at the base of the thumb-pipe.
Fig. 1 indicates the material for a glove according to the invention cut in one piece
which only requires' sewing up around the edges, with the addition of usual
fourchetts, to form a right hand glove.
Fig. 2 shews such a cut of glove after sewing up, a portion of the thumb-pipe being
removed so as not to interfere with the view line of the wrist and dexter finger. This
cut of material would be folded on the line A-A (Fig. 1) and sewn up bringing the
parts 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4; 5-5, 6-6, adjacent; the edges 7-7, and 8-8; of
the thumb being brought together and sewn.
Fig. 3 shews a modification in the cut of the material, and
Fig: 4 shews the same sewn up, with the addition of usual fourchetts and a quirk
in the thumb joint. In sewing up this cut of material the back and front portions
are joined together by folding on the dotted line B-B, (Fig. 3) the back and front
portions being joined by sewing commencing at the top of the thumb at the fold,
and passing up and down each finger 2, 3, 4, 5 to outside the little finger and right.
down the glove to the wrist at 6 to the full extent of the glove; in the case of' a
jersey buttonless or long-glove, passing up the arm to the full extent of the glove, or
so far as may be desired. The joining between the point 1 and the bottom of the glove
at the point 7 may be simply that arising from non-severance of the material when the
two parts; or front and back of the glove are folded together.
Fig. 5 shews a cut of material slightly modified from the preceding, and
Fig. 6.shews the same sewn up to form a glove, with the addition of usual fourchetts
and a quirk at the thumb.
With this cut of material to form a glove the piece is folded on the line C-C
(Fig. 5) adjacent to the little fingers, and the cut of the glove as will be seen is

page_text: slightly modified so as to make the straight and curved sides the opposite of those
illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4, so as to insure correct adjustment in the finished gloves.
In this modification the sewing commences at the top of the adjacent front and back
portions of the little fingers passing over the little finger, down, then up the fourth
finger, over, down and up the fifth finger, over, down and up the dexter finger, over,
down and up and over and around the thumb, then down to the bottom of the
glove, the junction being made by usual sewing, the joint on the line C-C being
made by the folding of the material.
Fig. 7 shews another cut of material slightly modified from the preceding, which
is made into a glove as shewn by Fig. 8, by first folding the material on the
line D-D (Fig. 7) of the exterior of the little finger of the finished glove and next
folding the other portion on the line E-E on the outside or thumb side of the
dexter finger, thus bringing the half fingers 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, and 5-5 upon
each other, and the line of sewing will be: starting from the fold D-D over and down
the little finger, up, over and down the next, up, over and down the third finger,
then up and over the top of the dexter finger, the sewing being also continued down
the join formed down the palm on a line commencing at or about the fork of the
dexter and third fingers, passing down the fork of the thumb, up and over the
thumb, palm and wrist, or wrist and arm as the case may be. The material itself
being unsevered forms the join on the two outside edges of the glove.
The forms of cut of glove shewn by Figs. 1, 3, 5 may be made by cutting the
material along the line of fold and sewing, but such increases the amount of sewing
without any collateral advantage, and we prefer to form that portion of the junction
by folding.
We are aware that it has been common to employ a glove known as the "Systeme
Josephine," indicated by Fig. 9, wherein a glove is formed partly of one piece, folded
on the outer edges and joined and sewn on a line down the palm as from a-b, and
then passing down to the wrist-opening as c, the thumb and a part of the wrist being
formed as a separate and second piece, joined on a line as from bd by sewing, but
we make no claim to any such cut or mode of manufacture, nor does the same effect
the purposes we have in view.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The various cuts of gloves when made from sheets of material to be afterwards
sewn or united, and the manufacture and use of the same as and for the purposes
set forth.
2. The manufacture of gloves cut and made from sheets of material, sewn or united,
as and for the purposes set forth, in respect of Figs. 1 and 2.
3. The manufacture of gloves cut and made from sheets of material, sewn
or united, as and for the purposes set forth, in respect of Figs. 3 and 4.
4. The manufacture of gloves cut and made from sheets of material, sewn or
united, as and for the purposes set forth, in respect of Figs. 5 and 6.
5. The manufacture of gloves cut and made from sheets of material, sewn or
united, as and for the purposes set forth, in respect of Figs. 7 and 8.
Dated the 2nd day of April 1800.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.