CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR CONSTRUCTION OF COATS, CAPES, AND ORIZED HODED GARMENTS OF PERSONAL ATTIRE
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Holmes, of No. 31, Great Queen Street,
in the Parish of Saint Giles in the Fields, and County of Mid-
dlesex, Accountant and Agent, for the Invention of "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR CONSTRUCTION OF COATS, CAPES,
AND ORIZED HODED GARMENTS OF PERSONAL ATTIRE."
Sealed the 30th March 1853, and dated the 1st October 1852.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Holmes
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 1st October 1852.
Provisional Specification accompanying the Petition of GEORGE
HOLMES, of No. 31, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields, Middle-
sex, for the grant of Royal Letters Patent for a certain Invention,
Centitled CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR CONSTRUCTION
OF COATS, CAPES, AND OTHER UPPER GARMENTS OF PERSONAL ATTIRE."
Whereas it is provided that all persons petitioning for grant of
Royal Letters Patent for any Invention should deposit a Provisional

page_text: Specification, setting forth the nature and object of such Invention.
Now I, George Holmes aforesaid, do declare that the Invention for
which I have this day presented a Petition to the Queen's most Ex-
cellent Majesty for grant of Royal Letters Patent is comprised in the
following outline of the objects intended to be effected by the said
certain improvements, and which, for the purpose of making them more
clearly understood, I have divided into two parts, that is to say:
Firstly, certain improved modes of constructing coats, capes, and
other articles of upper clothing, with one or more additional fronts to
the ordinary fronts, as, when made, to be worn only with one side
outwards. The said certain improvements under this head being
dependent upon the employment or use of cloth or fabrics having,
possessing, or shewing on each side thereof two faces of different colors
or patterns, in such manner that a single garment, when completed,
shall have, when worn, the appearance of being two distinct articles of
wearing apparel, each of different colors, pattern, style, and make,
although it shall be in reality only one garment.
Secondly, certain improved modes of constructing coats, capes, and
other upper garments from double faced cloth or fabrics, as herein-
before described, in such manner as to be worn either side outwards,
at the option of the wearer, and which, when reversed or turned, pre-
sents a different appearance on each side thereof, as complete and
perfect garment, as will further be explained in the full and complete
Specification hereafter to be made.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, 2
filed by the said George Holmes in the Great Seal Patent Office,
on the 1st April 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I.
GEORGE HOLMES, of No. 31, Great Queen Street, in the Parish of
Saint Giles's in the Fields, and County of Middlesex, Accountant and s
Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty. Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date, the First day of October, in the year. of

page_text: our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the sixteenth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said George Holmes, Her special licence that I, the
said George Holines, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said George Holmes, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OR CONSTRUCTION OF COATS, CAPES, AND OTHER UPPER GARMENTS
OP PERSONAL ATTIRE," upon the condition (amongst others) that 1, the
said George Holmes, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
scal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause.
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters.
Patent.
NOW KNOW. YE, that I, the said George Holmes, do hereby
declare the nature of said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and.
by the following statement:
That my Invention consists, firstly, of the formation of double fronted
coats, capes, or cloaks, by the use of double faced fabrics, either sepa-
rately or in combination with fabrics which have but one side or face
finished, for the purpose of being used as the right side, as is most
generally the case with ordinary fabrics intended for being made up
into garments. And, secondly, my Invention consists of the formation
of a new description of reversible double coats, by the use of the said
reversible fabrics, either separately or in combination with the said
ordinary fabrics (described as above, under the first head of this my
Specification), in such manner that the fore parts of such coats shall
form two sets of fronts, having the appearance of being two distinct and
separate coats of different material, texture, colour, or make, which-
ever side is worn outwards, which said fore parts or fronts are made

page_text: to button up, independently of each other, as in coats of an ordinary
kind.
་་
In order that the nature of my Invention of the said improvements in
the construction of coats, capes, and cloaks, may be clearly understood
by a practical workman, I have deemed it best to divide my description
of the Invention of the said improvements into two parts, and then to
point out, under their respective heads or divisions, the methods I have
found most advantageous in carrying out the same into practice in the
manufacture, construction, or making of the said garments; and, first,
to give a general outline of the improvements effected by the Invention
when put into practice, with the general principle on which they depend.
That which I denominate the first part of my Invention consists
of certain methods in the constructing of upper garments by the use
of double faced fabrics, or what are commonly called reversible
fabrics or cloths; that is, fabrics or cloths which are manufactured
in such manner as to be adapted for being made up into garments,
either side outwards. The upper garments to which my improved
methods are more especially adapted are double fronted coats, capes,
and cloaks; that is to say, coats, capes and cloaks having one or
more additional fronts or fore parts, made and combined in such a
manner as to give them the appearance, when on the wearer, of being
two distinct garments, while in reality they are only one.
As the advantages of this description of garments have not here-
tofore been pointed out, and as it is desirable that they should be
generally understood by practical workmen and kept in view, for the
right understanding of this Specification I will, before setting forth my
improved methods of making and constructing them, enumerate the lead-
ing advantages sought to be attained by such improved methods. The
objects to be secured in the production of garments constructed with
double fronts, in the manner described or referred to, are as follows:-
First, in walking and riding coats, capes, &c.; the advantage of having
the appearance of two perfect looking coats, while there is but little more
than the weight of one; great facility of adaptability to the changing
tepmerature of the weather, by the case with which the fronts can be
worn either buttoned or unbuttoned, as they are made to fit each other

page_text: so as not to produce any unpleasant restraint to any part of the body.
Second, economy of material; two coats, in appearance, being produced
by a very small additional outlay to the cost of one coat made in the
ordinary manner. Now, the first of these objects is attained in the
most perfect manner by the use of the aforesaid double faced fabrics,
in accordance with my improved methods of construction, as will
appear from the following statement:--In constructing double fronted
coats, capes, and cloaks from the ordinary fabrics, having but one side
finished, it is necessary to face the inner side of the fore parts, the
sleeves, and skirts, with a suitable material to impart smoothness and
finish thereto. This necessarily increases the weight of the garment.
And when a garment is made of such cloth of the ordinary quality and
substance, with double fronts, it is found to be inconveniently heavy and
cumbersome for walking or riding, even in cold weather. Now, the
double faced cloth is usually soft and finished on both sides; and a
garment made therefrom requires no lining to any part of it, when
made according to my methods, while the facings of the lappels can
also be dispensed with; and thus an extremely light coat can be made
from a comparatively heavy cloth of this description. By the use of
this cloth I therefore can produce a double fronted coat having all the
appearance of two coats, while it possesses but the weight of one coat
made of a common cloth of similar substance.
I will now proceed to illustrate those advantages by giving such ex-
amples of the modes which I have found most convenient for carrying
out this part of my Invention; which examples will enable a practical
workman to apply those modes by observing the directions and descrip-
tions given herewith. The description of coats to which the Invention
is applicable consists principally of what are usually denominated sur-
touts, paletots, and Chesterfields. For the production of a double fronted,
single breasted paletot, made entirely of double faced febrics, I take, for
example, a piece of double faced single texture cloth, one side of which
is (say) a dark brown, and the other side thereof is (say) of a bright
green colour.
This I cut out in the ordinary manner pursued in
cutting out a single breasted paletot. I then take another piece of
double faced cloth, also of single texture, one side of which is (say) of

page_text: black, and the other side of an olive green; from this I cut out th
fore-parts of a single breasted frock coat in the manner usually pursue
in cutting out such coats, taking care that it shall be of a suitable an
corresponding size to the paletot, and that its breadth is sufficient t
allow of its being properly adjusted and fastened on to the side body
of the, paletot, so as to button up with proper ease when on the
wearer. The collar and the portion forming the shoulder-strap should
also be cut of proportionate shortness, so that when the fronts are
fastened in the paletot, those parts will fit, and sit after the manner
of a properly fitting coat. Having cut out the paletot and the fore-
parts of a frock coat, which are to form its complementary fronts; I
next put together the paletot in the ordinary manner; linings,
however, I leave out altogether, and cover the seams, both of the
breast and body, with a suitable trimming to give a neat and finished
appearance to the inner side of the garment. To the inner side of
the forepart I add a facing of the same. material of the coat, to
-cover the necessary stays for the button holes and buttons, and for
the formation of the fly for the button holes. The edges I bind with
'any suitable trimming adapted. to the style of the coat; the pockets I
also fasten on to the back and skirts in the usual manner when the
skirts are not lined. The paletot, being thus completed, is now ready.
to receive the fronts of a frock coat. These I make up also without
any lining, but face the portion on which the buttons must be placed,
and the button holes made, with a piece of the same material, so as to
cover the proper stays, and give a finish to the lappels; the edges I
finish in the ordinary manner. The collar I fasten to the front, in the
usual way, and neatly finish the under edge of the hinder part, which
is to be left unattached. These foreparts I next attach to the seams of
the shoulders, sighs (or scyes), and sidebody of the paletot, so that,
when worn together, the frock coat fronts sit upon the person of the
wearer in the manner of a properly fitting entire coat. The paletot,
having the fronts of the frock coat thus attached, becomes one
garment, but possessing, when worn, the appearance of being two
distinct coats of different colour, texture, and make. I pursue precisely
this mode also in the construction of double breasted, double fronted 3

page_text: coats, with such variations in the cut, and in making up the fronts to
be attached, as taste may dictate; as, for example, the additional or
complementary fronts may be cut so as to appear to be a single
breasted or double breasted frock coat, with or without flies, as may
be desired, or they may be after the prevailing style of the coats
denominated Oxonian or Beaufort coats. The most convenient, and
generally the most becoming style, I, however, find to be the single
breasted frock coat, as the garment is thus more equally balanced in
its various parts, and is especially adapted for a walking or riding coat,
as the fronts can be left unbuttoned or buttoned up at the pleasure of
the wearer; and thus the principal advantages of two coats are com-
bined in the one garment, at the same time the inconvenient restraint
upon the arms and shoulders which is experienced when two coats- are
worn is entirely obviated.
In the production of the other denominations of over coats, herein-
before mentioned, from double faced cloth or fabric, I.follow the same
method in cutting and making up as just described, and adopting such
variations as the circumstances of season and fashion may require in
the style of those garments.
In making. a coat of a fabric of a rather heavy description, as, for
example, a cloth having a Witney face on one side and a beaver face
on the other, I dispense with facings thereto by covering the stays of
the buttons with small circular pieces of cloth, and by binding the
édges of the button holes with a suitable material to give, due strength
thereto. This latter plan may be also adopted when it is desirable to
have a coat and its complementary fronts as light as possible. In
constructing capes and cloaks, mantles and loose jackets, from the
aforesaid fabrics, I follow the usual method in the cutting out and
making them up, excepting the finishing of the interior portions, which
I complete in the manner already pointed out in the previous examples
herein given of the mode of constructing paletots, surtouts, and other
coats. As a general rule, I find it best to cut the supplementary fore-
parts of the intended garment wider below the seye (or sigh) down-
wards, than when such forepart is intended to be attached to a paletot
or other coat, as then the forepart of the cape or cloak may be thrown

page_text: back off the arm, without exposing the back edges of those parts; and
in order to secure them in their proper position, to the front and sides
of the wearer, an elastic band may be attached to the edges of the
fronts, so as to pass round the waist, in such a manner as to give
perfect ease to the wearer, whilst it holds the fronts close to the body.
In the examples above given, it should be understood that I employ
no other description of fabric than that previously described as having
both sides or faces so manufactured that each of them is a right side
or surface, and adapted to be used outwards in the making of wearing
apparel. In the construction of double fronted garments, I have found
it advantageous to use the said double faced fabrics in combination
with those cloths or fabrics commonly used in the construction of
ordinary articles of personal attire. Thus a paletot, or other coat, may
be made altogether of the last-named fabrics, in such a manner as to be
adapted for the attaching of additional fronts thereto, and those fronts
being made in the manner herein-before described, of double faced
cloth or fabric, and attached according to the directions previously
given; the result being a very useful garment, if, at the same time, the
complete top coat be made of fabrics of moderately light substance. I
have also found that when a coat intended to be worn as a top coat
is composed and made entirely of double faced cloth, as hercin-before
described, a pair of frock coat fronts made from any of the ordinary
materials, with a collar properly connecting them, and otherwise made
in the ordinary manner, may be attached so as to form also a most
useful garment, possessing most of the advantages herein-before described.
That which I denominate the second part of my Invention consists
of improved modes or methods in the making or construction of double
coats and capes, that is to say, coats and capes made double by the use
of two pieces of cloth of the same size, and so joined together through-
out, as herein-after described, that they make but one garment, which,
when finished, is capable of being worn either side outwards, that is,
turned or reversed at pleasure. By this it is intended should be
understood that I have invented an improved modes of making what
are commonly known as double reversible coats; that is to say, a coat
made double throughout in every part, and though being in reality a

page_text: double coat, presents the appearance when in wear of but one garment;
whichever side is worn outwards. The advantages intended to be
secured by my improved method of making this description of garments,
not hitherto accomplished, is set forth in the following examples of the
mode I adopt in making up the same:-A coat constructed with double
fronts out of a cloth or cloths herein-before described as double faced
fabrics, and in accordance with the directions herein-after set forth.
My new arrangements of the foreparts of such coats will afford the
wearer the option of protecting his chest either with a single or double
covering, and present at the same time the appearance of having two
coats, whichever side is worn outwards; and furthermore, as each of
such double fronts have two distinct finished sides, a reversible coat, so
constructed, may be made to present four distinct appearances of the
fronts in succession, that is to say, two coats each time it is reversed,
each of a different texture, make, or colour.
In order that the practical workman may now fully understand the
methods by which I carry this part of my Invention into effect in the
construction of reversible double garments, having both sides' either
alike or different in make, colour, or texture, I will give three examples
of the modes I have found to be the most advantageous to adopt. Ex-
ample first: I take two pieces of suitable reversible material, of different
thickness and colour, and of the requisite size to form two distinct coats,
that is to say, for instance, a double breasted paletot and a Chesterfield
surcoat. I next cut them out in the ordinary manner, to exactly the
same pattern and size. One of the fabrics, in every case, should possess
the peculiarity above referred to or described, of being adapted, or so
finished, as to present two right sides; and whichever side is made up
outwards, the inner side will present such a finished face as not to
require a lining to give it the appearance of completeness when made
up into an ordinary garment; at the same time, the cloth of which it
is intended to form the complementary coat should be a much lighter
material, of some description of ordinary texture, such as Orleans cloth,
alpaca, or zephyr cloth; and accordingly, I take the reversible cloth,
having one side (say) green, and the other (say) a dark olive green,
cut it out as a double breasted paletot; this I make up in every

page_text: respect, and in such manner, as to appear like an ordinary paletot
when left unfinished for the purpose of being lined in the ordinary
way of making, with the exception of the fore parts and the under side
of the collar, which I face with the same material as far as the back of
the buttons; the stays for the buttons and button holes being covered
by the addition of the requisite quantity of cloth of the same material
as the coat; such facing being laid on in the mode described in the
example given in the first part of the Specification, and in such manner
that the edges may be attached neatly to the face of the cloth, so as to
look as little conspicuous as possible. The collar and lappels must also
be made in a suitable manner for being reversed, that is, the under
side from the crease edge niust have a piece laid on of the same colour
as the inner part of the coat. The double faced cloth coat being so far
finished, the complementary coat (say) of alpaca, is next made up in
precisely the same manner as the first-named, with the exception that
the inner part of the front is best faced with a different lining of
cloth or material to either the cloth or the alpaca; by that means there
is obtained the appearance of an additional and distinct coat whenever
the garment is reversed. The facing of the alpaca coat of cloth
should be carried back quite to the side body and over the shoulders,
and round the collar, so as to give it an uniform appearance whichever
side the garment is worn outwards. It is necessary that each of the
fronts should have a duplicate set of buttons, so as to be ready for use
whenever the garment is reversed. Each coat is thus far supposed to
be complete in itself, as if ready for the reception of linings to the back
and sleeves, and they are therefore in the state of completeness for
being attached to each other. I next attach the (say) alpaca coat, seam
against seam, to the cloth coat; that is to say, to the seams of the
(seye), the sidebody, shoulders, and sleeves, leaving each of the fronts
or fore parts and collars free and unattached, in such manner that
each appears like an independent garment when on the person of the
wearer. Thus, when the (say) alpaca is worn inwards, it may be
buttoned up in front, while the front of the then outer coat is worn
open, or both fronts may be buttoned up, or both left open, as may be
desirable. If it is required that the front part of the (say) alpaca

page_text: should be kept back off the breast, a series of elastic loops may be
attached on to the seam of the side body, on the inside of fore part
of the cloth coat, and a corresponding set of small buttons on the inner
side of the fore part of the alpaca coat, but more forward, so that where
the elastic loops are attached the fore part of the alpaca coat shall be
drawn back and away from the chest. These elastic loops may also be
made to serve the purpose of making the alpaca coat fit closely to the
fore part of the body when buttoned up. To make a double fronted
reversible coat entirely out of double faced fabrics, without the use of
any other description of fabric, I take two pieces of the said double
faced cloth, of thin quality, but each different in colour, pattern, and
texture from the other, and cut out the parts in accordance with the
fashion or design required to be shewn on each side of such coat,
taking care that the seams of the back and side body of the two sides
of the garment shall coincide, or fall in the same position; and I then
follow the same plan of making up the two sides as described in
example first of this Specification, taking care to finish both the fore
parts of each of the fronts differently on each side.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the various
modes, manners, and methods in which the same is to be carried into
practical effect, I wish it to be distinctly understood that I do not
confine myself to the precise details of the methods of constructing the
said garments, as such details must necessarily vary, without departing
from the principle of my Invention. I also wish it to be distinctly
understood that I do not claim any of the particular modes of cutting
out or fashioning the individual and particular parts of the said
garments. And in order that it may be fully understood what is the
extent of my Invention in the construction of the said garments, I
declare my Invention to consist of, and I claim,-
Firstly, the use of reversible or double faced fabrics, either alone or
in combination with the ordinary fabrics in the manufacture, construc-
tion, or making of double fronted coats, capes, cloaks, and other upper
garments, in the modes and according to the manners set forth,
described, and exemplified in this my Specification.

page_text: Secondly, the construction of double fronted reversible coats, by the
use of double faced fabrics, either alone or in combination with other
suitable fabrics, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Holmes, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this First day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
GEORGE HOLMES. (L.S.)