IMPROVEMENTS IN GORES, GUSSETS, AND SIMILAR PARTS OF WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake,
& Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN GORES, GUSSETS, AND SIMILAR PARTS OF WEARING
APPAREL." A communication from abroad by Simon Florsheim, of Chicago,
Illinois, United States of America, Merchant.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 27th December 1881.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE of the Firm of Haseltine Lake and Co, Patent Agents
Southampton Buildings London "IMPROVEMENTS IN GORES, GUSSETS AND
SIMILAR PARTS OF WEARING APPAREL " [A communication from abroad by
Simon Florsheim, of Chicago, Illinois, United States of America, Merchant.]
The object of this Invention is to make practical convenient and satisfactory the
substitution of metallic springs for india-rubber in elastic gores, gussets, and sections
for wearing apparel.
According to the said Invention I secure metal springs to the covering material
and extend such covering material beyond the ends of the springs to form inelastic
margins, and I may arrange the springs in groups and make the said springs of two
or more of such groups continuous; I also provide peculiar cross fastenings for
staying the springs at their ends when not made continuous, as hereinafter
described.
In carrying the suid Invention into practice closely coiled spiral springs of metal
are inclosed in tubes formed in the covering material which is puckered over the
springs when such inaterial is not itself a loose fabric which will stretch sufficiently
without being puckered. The springs do not extend to the edges of the covering
material, inelastic margins being left outside of the springs. The latter are stayed
at their ends by the covering material, so that they are wholly independent of the
stitching that secures the gore in position. The covering material is made of such
shape and size that when it is puckered over the springs, the elastic gore will be
suitable for the location where it is intended to be used. The elastic gore is secured
LD all

page_text: in position by stitching the plain inelastic margin on a sewing machine, to the
material of the article in which the gore is to be employed. This margin makes it
possible to sew the elastic section to the rest of the garment without bringing the
needle into interference with the springs; this interference is apt to result (in
machine sewing) in cutting the springs or breaking the needle. In hand sewing.
also, the seam has a clumsy appearance when the stitch passes through the ends of
the springs.
The covering material is made double or of two thicknesses, and the tubes are
formed by stitching or they are woven in the material in the process of manufac-
ture. Such tubes do not extend to the edges of the covering material.
Where the gore, gusset, or section is of considerable width (transversely to the
springs) the springs are arranged in groups some groups having more springs than
others, according to the stiffness desired at any particular point. The springs of
the several groups are made of a continuous length of coiled wire which is passed
back and forth through the tubes and from one group to another between the
thickness of the covering material. At its ends the continuous spring is secured
by hand stitches. When the elastic piece is simply a strap or belt requiring but
one group of springs, the springs may be secured together at their ends and stayed
to the covering material by metal fastenings, which connect the springs and extend
across the ends of the tubes between the thickness of the covering material. These
fastenings are preferably metal tubes each formed of a piece of sheet metal not
joined at its margins; this tube is pushed over the end coils of the springs, its
margins being lapped past each other so as to conform to the coils. The tubes are
pinched or partly closed at their ends to retain the springs in position. Instead of
the described tubes, the springs may be connected_by_small-plates pushed between
the coils; in either case-these-metal fastenings lie across the ends of the tubes
-between the thicknesses of the covering material, and stay the ends of the springs
by fixing them to the covering material at those points.
In applying my Invention to corsets, both sides may be provided with these
elastic sections, the corset having lacings at the back; or the section may be inserted
in the back of the corset instead of in each side or the corset may be provided with
elastic hip-gores alone.
This elastic gore, gusset, or section is also intended to be used in the sides of
gaiters and upon the waist-bands of overalls and pantaloons, and also upon other
articles of wearing apparel wherever india-rubber cloth is now used, and by reason
of the strength, durability, and coolness of the improved gore, its independent action,
and the nicety with which its elasticity can be regulated, it can be used in many
places where india-rubber cloth cannot be employed to advantage.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
26th June 1882.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co. Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN GORES, GUSSETS, AND
SIMILAR PARTS OF WEARING APPAREL." A communication from abroad by
Simon Florsheim, of Chicago, Illinois, United States of America, Merchant.
The object of this Invention is to make practical, convenient, and satisfactory, the
substitution of metallic springs for india rubber in elastic gores, gussets, and sections
for wearing apparel.
According to the said Invention I secure metallic springs to the covering material
and extend such covering material beyond the ends of the springs, to form inelastic
margins, and in some cases I arrange the springs in groups, and make the springs of
two or more of such groups of a continuous length of coiled wire, and I provide
peculiar cross fastenings for staying the springs at their ends when not made
continuous, as hereinafter described.
Figure 1 is a perspective view of a corset having my elastic gore, gusset, or
section applied thereto.
Figure is an elevation of a portion of the elastic gore, gusset, or section
detached.
Figure 3 is an elevation of the same with one thickness of the covering-material
removed.
Figure 4 is a vertical section of the gore, gusset, or section.
Figure 5 is an elevation of a narrow gore, gusset, or section having only one
group of springs, the covering-material being broken away at one end to disclose
the cross-fastening.
Figure 6 is a transverse section of the same, drawn to an enlarged scale, and
Figure 7 is an end view of one of the fastenings for securing the springs of a
group to the covering material, including a side view of part of a spring.
A is the covering-material of the gore, gusset, or section. The closely coiled
spiral springs of metal B are inclosed in tubes a formed in the covering-material
which is puckered over the springs when such material is not itself a loose fabric
which will stretch sufficiently without being puckered. The springs do not extend
to the edges of the covering-material, inelastic margins b being left outside of the
springs. The latter are stayed at their ends by the covering material, so that they
are wholly independent of the stitching that secures the gore in position.
The covering-material is made of such shape and size that when it is puckered
over the springs the elastic gore will be suitable for the location where it is intended
to be used. The clastic gore is secured in position by stitching the plain inelastic
margin 6 by a sewing machine, or otherwise, to the material of the article in which
the gore is to be employed. This margin makes it possible to sew the elastic
section to the rest of the garment without bringing the needle into interference
with the springs; this interference is apt to result (in machine sewing) in cutting
the springs or breaking the needle. In hand sewing, also, the seam has a clumsy
appearance when the stitch passes through the ends of the springs. The covering
material is made double or of two thicknesses, and the tubes a are formed by
stitching, or they are woven in the material in the process of manufacture. Such
tubes do not extend to the edges of the covering-material.
Where the gore, gusset, or section is of considerable width (transversely to the
springs) the springs are arranged in groups as shewn in Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4, some
groups having more springs than others, according to the stiffness desired at any

page_text: particular point. The springs of the several groups are made of a continuous
length of coiled wire, which is passed from side to side through the tubes, and from
one group to another between the thicknesses of the covering material. At its ends
the continuous spring is secured by hand stitches c. When the elastic piece is
simply a strap or belt requiring but one group of springs, as shewn in Figure 5 the
springs may be secured together at their ends and stayed to the covering material
by metal fastenings C which connect the springs and extend across the ends of the
tubes between the thicknesses of the covering-material. These fastenings are
preferably metal tubes, each formed of a piece of sheet metal not joined at its.
margins. This tube is pushed over the end coils of the springs, one of its margins g
being lapped over the other f so as to conform to the coils as shewn in Figure 7 of
the Drawing. The tubes are pinched or partly closed at their ends to fetain the
springs in position. Instead of the described tubes, the springs may be connected
by small plates pushed between the coils. In either case these metal fastenings lic
across the ends of the tubes between the two thicknesses of the covering-material,
and stay the ends of the springs by fixing them to the covering material at those
points.
The said Invention is illustrated in Figure 1 which shows a section inserted in
the side of a corset. The other side is provided with a similar section, and the
corset has lacings at the back. If desired, one section may be inserted in the back
of the corset, instead of one in each side, or the corset may be provided with elastic
hip gores alone.
This elastic gore, gusset or section is also intended to be used in the sides of
gaiters and in the waist-bands of overalls, and pantaloons, and also in other articles
of wearing apparel wherever india-rubber-cloth is now used.;_and,-by-reason-of-
the strength,-durability, and coolness of the improved gore, its independent action,
and the nicety with which its elasticity can be regulated, it can be used in many
places where india-rubber-cloth cannot be employed to advantage.
Having thus fully described the said Invention, as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim :-
First. An elastic gore, gusset, or section for wearing apparel, composed of a
covering-material having tubes, spiral metal springs enclosed by such tubes and
not extending to the edges of the covering material and stayed at their ends by
such covering material, and inelastic margins outside of the said springs, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Second. In an elastic gore, gusset, or section of the character described the
springs arranged in groups and made of a continuous length of coiled wire,
substantially as described and shewn, and for the purpose specified.
Third. In an elastic gore, gusset, or section, a covering-inaterial made of double
thickness and having tubes not extending to its edges, in combination with metallic
spiral springs enclosed by the said tubes, and with fastenings extending across the
ends of the tubes between the thicknesses of the covering-material, substantially as
described, and for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof I the said William Robert Lake have hereunto set my
hand and seal this Twenty-third day of June One thousand eight hundred