AN IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Jacques Emile Bertin, of Paris, Boulevard de Strasbourg,
No. 23, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED SEWING
MACHINE"
Sealed the 24th May 1878, and dated the 3rd December 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Jacques Emile Bertin at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 3rd December 1877.
JACQUES EMILE BERTIN, of Paris, Boulevard de Strasbourg, No. 23, Manufacturer.
"AN IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE.”
This Invention relates to a sewing machine particularly adapted for sewing
gloves, hat or bonnet work, corsets, and the like articles, the mechanism being such
that the work can be made as fine as required with perfect evenness and regularity
without injury to the material.
The edge of the glove or other article to be sewn is held between two horizontal
feed discs, smooth on the periphery, and pressed together by a spring. These discs
are caused to turn step by step by intermittent gear worked from the main shaft of
the machine, and the material is thus moved onwards the width of a stitch at
every revolution of the shaft One of the discs is mounted on a hinged standard,
and can at pleasure be moved in opposition to the spring (by hand or by the foot
or knee acting on a lever connected with the standard) sufficiently away from the
other disc for the admission of the material between the disc or for its removal.
Above the upper face of this disc is fitted a small sliding bolt, which serves as a guide
to the edge of the material projecting upwards from between the discs, and beside
this guide is a fixed edge which serves as an abutment against the needle. One of
these is of the circular kind caused to reciprocate by a rack acting on a pinion on
its axis, the rack being reciprocated by a cam on the main shaft. On the saine
main shaft there is also a cam which works the other or straight needle, and a cam
which works the looping hook. The threads are led to the needles through tension
gear of ordinary construction adjustable by screw nuts under which is fixed a
graduated plate indicating to the operator the tension necessary for different kinds
of work.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Jacques Emile Bertin in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 1st
June 1878.
JACQUES EMILE BERTIN, of Paris, Boulevard de Strasbourg, No 23, Manufacturer.
"AN IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE."
This Invention relates to a sewing machine particularly adapted for sewing
gloves, hat or bonnet work, corsets, and the like articles, the mechanisin being such
that the work can be made as fine as required with perfect evenness and regularity
without injury to the material.
The edge of the glove or other article to be sewn is held between two horizontal
feed discs, smooth on the periphery, and pressed together by a spring. These discs
are caused to turn step by step by intermittent gear worked from the main shaft
of the machine, and the material is thus moved onwards the width of a stitch at
every revolution of the shaft One of the discs is mounted on a hinged standard,
and can at pleasure be moved in opposition to the spring (by hand or by the foot or
knee acting on a lever connected with the standard) sufficiently away from the
other disc for the admission of the material between the discs or for its removal.
Above the upper face of the disc is fitted a small sliding bolt, which serves as a
guide to the edge of the material projecting upwards from between the discs; and
beside this guide is a fixed edge, which serves as an abutment against the needle.
One of these is of the circular kind caused to reciprocate by a rack acting on a
pinion on its axis, the rack being reciprocated by a cam on the main shaft On the
same main shaft there is also a cam which works the other or straight needle, and
a cain which works the looping hook. The threads are led to the needles through
tension gear of ordinary construction adjustable by screw nuts under which is
fixed a graduated plate indicating to the operator the tension necessary for different
kinds of work.
sewing machine.
On the main shaft O, which is driven by hand or by a band on the pulley P, aro
fixed three cams, C, which works a reciprocating rack c; O', which works the
needle slide d, and C, which works the hook x. The rack c gears with a pinion (
on the spindle o of the reciprocating circular needle shown in the part plan, Fig. 4.
The cams act on rollers on their respective levers, giving them positive motions in
both directions without the aid of springs. The feed consists of two discs, A. and
B, fixed on spindles o¹, o, that work in bearings D, D'. The bearing D' is fixed,
but the other bearing D is attached by an arm q to a lever M, the arm being jointed
to the framing by a pin 8. A spring, acting with adjustable pressure on the
lever M, tends to force the disc A in close contact with B; but by pressing down
the outer end of the lever M, which may be done by the knee of the operator
acting on a bar t, the disc A is moved away from B a little distance for the purpose
of introducing between the discs the material p to be stitched or removing it when
done. The edges of the discs A and B are smooth, so that they do not fray or
mark the material, and they are turned step by step in opposite directions by
a train of gearing consisting of the wheels E, E¹, fixed respectively on the spindles
o', o, the latter wheel engaging with a pinion F on a vertical spindle G, which by
the bevil gear H and I is turned from the star wheel K, moved one tooth at every
revolution of the driver L on the shaft O. For the purpose of guiding the material,
so that its edge is presented at a regular height above the feeding discs, a plate g is
fixed over the disc A, and fitted with a small sliding bolt f, which extends over
the edge of the material operated on. On the end of the plate g is a small piece

page_text: forming an abutment to support the material against the thrust of the needle d,
which penetrates the material closely at the side of this abutment perpendicularly
to the surface of the material thus supported. The tension of the threads is
adjusted in the usual way by the nuts acting on the tension discs y. A graduated
plate b shews the operator the degree of tension applied.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, I claim,―
First. The construction of sewing machine, wherein reciprocating rectilineal and
rotary needles and a hook operate in combination with two feeding discs, and with
a guide and abutment, substantially as herein described.
Second. The use in the machine above referred to of two smooth feeding discs
between which the material is pressed without being injured.
Third. The use of the guide f for maintaining the line of stitching at a constant
distance from the edge of the material
Fourth The use of the abutment at the end of the plate g, to support the
material against the thrust of the needle d.
In witness whereof, I, the said Jacques Emile Bertin, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-eight.
Witness,
CH. ARMENGAUD,
Civil Engineer,
No. 23, Boulevard de Strasbourg.
J. E. BERTIN. (LS.)