IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-. FACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING SUCH FABRICS
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, wc, SAMUEL
NICHOLS, of Coldham Street, Nottingham, Mechanic, JOHN LIVESEY, of New
Lenton, in the County of Nottingham, Draughtsman, and EDWARD WROUGH-
TON, of New Lenton, in the County of Nottingham, Mechanic, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Nineteenth day of
August (One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two), in the sixteenth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Samuel Nichols, John Livesey, and Edward Wroughton, our
exors, adiiors, and assigns, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that we, the said Samuel Nichols, John Livesey, and Edward
Wroughton, our exors, adññors, and assigns, or such others as we, the said
Samuel Nichols, John Livesey, and Edward Wroughton, our cxors, adñiors,
or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times during the term of years therein expressed, should and law-
fully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the
Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-.
FACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING SUCH FABRICS;"
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that we, the said Samuel
Nichols, John Livesey, and Edward Wroughton, some or one of us, shall cause,
a particular description of the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under our hands and

page_text: seals, or under the hand and seal of some or one of us, to be inrolled in Her
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in
and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
5
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
Samuel Nichols, John Livesey, and Edward Wroughton, do hereby declare
that the nature of our said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to
be performed, are fully described and ascertained in and by the present
Specification thereof, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, 1
that is to say:-
Our improvements in the manufacture of textile fabrics, and in the machinery
for producing such fabrics (the peculiarities and combinations belonging to
which will be herein-after described), consist,-
First, in an improved circular knitting frame for introducing warp and weft 1
threads, and in the fabrics so made.
Second, in an improved break for stopping circular knitting frames.
Third, in improved straight frames for making ribbed and plain hosiery
work.
Fourth, in apparatus for introducing weft threads in lace machinery, and in 2
improved arrangements for making grounds, and in fabrics so produced.
Fifth, in improved instruments and arrangements for producing pile and
other fabrics.
Sixth, in new fabrics, one part being made at right angles to the other part,
and in fabrics made edgewise and tied together at intervals, and in the arrange- 2
ments for producing the same.
Seventh, in improved apparatus and arrangements for making fringes and
pile fabrics, and in the fabrics so produced.
In proceeding to describe our Invention, we will explain each separate head
in the order just given, and in reference to each improvement where the S
Invention consists in additions to machinery now used in the manufacture of
textile fabrics, we will first describe so much of the ordinary machines as will
be sufficient to enable us to explain our Invention, and then describe our
additions to, alterations in, and modifications of such machinery; but in those
cases in which in carrying out our improvements we make a new machine, or S
so alter the arrangements of the machinery heretofore used, as to make it
difficult to separately distinguish the old parts from the new, we will then
first describe the machine as a whole, and afterwards point out in what our
improvements consist; we will also explain in connexion with the machinery

page_text: shaft A. L is a bracket carrying the weft thread bobbin l. C, E, are guides
for the weft thread. is a wheel carried by the bracket 1, for the purpose of
pushing the warp threads outwards, whilst the weft thread is laid under the
ends of the needles (the wheel and guide are shown separately, Figure 5).
The wheel is hollowed out, as shown, to allow the guide to deliver the weft
thread below the ends of the needles. M is a wheel for pushing back the
work directly after the operation of laying the weft thread under the needles
is accomplished. This wheel is placed a little in advance of the wheel 19. It
will be understood that to each apparatus for accomplishing the ordinary
looped work on the frame the apparatus just described for laying in the weft
threads must be added. The operation of this machine is as follows:-A
small quantity of the ordinary knitted fabric is first formed on the needles, the
warp threads are then brought one between each needle, and connected to the
work by passing a hook through the work, and drawing the warp threads
through from the back to the front, and fastened by pinning a number of
the threads together in front; the weft thread is then brought through the
guides and laid in under the needles, between the warp thread and loops, by
means of the wheel and guide, as before described. The machine being
now worked in the ordinary way, fabrics will be made having warp and weft
threads in addition to the ordinary looped work. If warp threads alone arc
to be introduced, the apparatus for fixing the loops must be placed alternately
inside and outside the warps on the plate K and ring C. It is not necessary
to describe particularly the fixing of the separate pieces, as the method of
fixing such pieces is well known. The warps are then laid in as before, and in
working the machine fabrics will be produced having warp threads added to
the ordinary knitted fabrics.
An apparatus for
This is effected
2nd, our Invention consists in an improved break for stopping circular
knitting frames when a damage in the work takes places.
stopping the frame when a thread breaks is now employed.
by passing the thread, before entering the loop or feed wheel, over a small
lever, so that when the thread breaks the lever falls, and puts a break in
action, and thus stops the frame. Now our Invention is for stopping the frame
when a hole in the work occurs, which may have been made by the thread or
otherwise. Figure 6 is a section of so much of a circular knitting frame as
is necessary to explain this improvement. A is the needle bar; B is the
shaft on which the needle bar revolves; and C, the plate on which the landing
wheels are fixed. Our additions consist of an annular wheel D, fixed on the
bottom of the needle bar A, and having teeth, as shewn in plan Figure 7, on
its inner surface. E is a sliding bolt moving in two bearings e¹, e, fixed to

page_text: described under the proper heads of our Invention, the arrangements and
adaptations we use to produce the different fabrics mentioned.
First, our Invention consists in an improved circular knitting frame for
introducing warp and weft threads. Figure 1 is an elevation, partly in section,
of this part of our Invention; and Figures 2, 3, 4, and 5 are detailed views of
different parts of the same. A is a shaft suspended from the bearing a¹ for
carrying the different parts of the machine. B is a circular plate fastened on
the shaft A. ', b, b, b, are columns fastened to the plate B, which carries
at the bottom an annular ring C. D is a circular plate usually called the
needle bar, supported by and turning on the nut d'; d', the needles; d², landing
wheels; the feed wheels and other pieces are fixed on the ring C, and being
well known are left out in the sketch, in order to shew the improvements
more clearly. The frame is driven by means of the pinion E, bevil wheel e
keyed on the shaft e¹, bevil wheels e², e, c, and e, e, is keyed on the hollow
shaft F, which revolves on the shaft A. f, ff, f, are spur gearing for
driving the needle bar D. G is a screw fixed in the step g by the pin g'. g'
is the circular box for receiving the work, and is caused to revolve on the
plain end of the screw by means of the spur wheels g³ and g', g³ being
fastened to the bottom of the box. g' is a circular board for drawing down
the work. g is a boss fastened to the board g. 9', g', are rods fixed to the
bottom of the box g, and revolve with it, and carry round at the same time
the board g and the ring g³. 9 is a spring catch attached to the boss 9", and
gearing into the thread of the screw G, by means of which, as the board g³
revolves, the work is drawn down. The thread of the screw G is cut so as to
draw down the board at the same speed as the work is formed. When it is
necessary to raise the board, the catch g is released from the thread of the
screw, and the board lifted to its required place. Our additions to this
machinery are as follows, and are for the purpose of introducing warp and
weft threads into work made from knitting machinery, that is to say, from.
that class of knitting machinery in which fabrics are formed from one continuous
thread, as in the ordinary circular frames. H is a circular plate fastened on
the hollow shaft F. I, I, I, are warp beams turning in bearings fixed on the
brackets i, and regulated by means of springs. i, i, are arms which carry
sleys (also shews separately at Figure 2) for grinding the threads for the
warp beams I. h is a ring fastened to the plate H (also shewn in the plan,
Figure 3). This ring is perforated with one perforation to each warp thread
used. The plate H carries columns h', h¹, on the bottom of which a ring h² is
fixed. h, h, are points attached to the rings h² for keeping the warp threads
separate (shewn in the plan, Figure 4). K is a circular plate fixed on the.

page_text: the plate C. This bolt is pressed against the fabric immediately under the
needles, as shewn, by a spring F. A projecting piece G is fastened to the
bolt. The action of this break is as follows:-One bolt apparatus is added to
the frame immediately after each knocking over wheel, and on a hole
occurring in the fabric sufficiently large to admit the end of the bolt B
to pass through, the projecting piece G will enter the notched teeth of the
annular wheel D, thus stop the frame.
for
3rd, our Invention consists in an improved straight frame for producing
ribbed and plain hosiery work. Figure 8 is a transverse section of this improve-
ment for making rib work, and Figures 9, 10, and 11 are parts shewn separately.
A is one end of a frame, to which the bars crossing the frame are attached.
B, B, are two bars set at any angle, as shewn. b', 6', are combs cast in leads,
and fastened to the bars B. The needles b, b, in this frame are fixed level in
the moveable plates b, b, fitting between the combs 6', ', and joined to levers
13 and by the links b, b. The levers 63 have their fulcrums at 65, b³, bº, 6º,
and b, b, are two sets of combs fastened to the bars C and D, the combs
carrying the axis forming the fulcrum, and 6 for guiding the levers . E, E,
are flat bars fixed on an axle at the bottom, covering the combs b', and keeping
the moveable plates & in their places. F, F, are moveable bars holding the
bars E in their places, and G, G, fixed bars supporting the bars F. ², h³, h³, h*,
are bars fixed parallel to each other, supporting and guiding the moveable
framework L. is a thread carrier attached to the framework L. M, M,
are two press wheels fixed on the axles m', m', and attached to the frame L,
as shewn. N. N, are two curved plates (shewn in elevation, Figure 9) fixed
to the framework L, as shewn. 0, 0, are two rollers fixed on axles o¹, o', and
attached to the framework L. The frame L, along with the parts l', M, M,
N, N, and O, O, is moved forward and backward by a crank, or, if long action
is wanted, by chain and pulley, or other convenient means. P, P, and R, R,
are bars for supporting the levers at their extreme points of motion. The
working of this frame is as follows:-A small quantity of work being run on
the needles, and the needles down, as shewn, the curved plates n, n, being in
advance of the rollers O, O, and the thread carrier b' between the two,
will on the frame being put in motion press down the levers 6, and cause the
needles to rise (as shewn in dotted lines), the thread carrier following will
deliver the thread between the needles b. The rollers 0, 0, now acting on
the levers e after the thread is delivered, will press down the needles, and
cause them to take up the thread between the beards, the beards of the needles
sinking will come in contact with the pressure wheels M, M (which are fixed

page_text: A', A, are sliding
before, in which two
slling pieces A, A,
to act at the same time as the rollers 0, 0), and this allows the work on the
needles to slip over the end of the beards, and to be knocked over by the
combs when the needles reach the bottom. The depth to which the
needles sink between the combs determines the length of the loop. This can
be regulated at pleasure by altering the position of the pieces N, N, and O, O,
along with the bars P and R. The thread carrier is kept in advance in
returning, in consequence of its sliding action being acted upon by the stops
P. p, Figure 10, which are fixed to the bar ha, and is the same as is used in the
common rotatory stocking frames, and therefore does not require any particular
description. The work comes down between the bars B. The moveable
bar is made loose, so that it presses upon the flat bars E, and can
readily be removed if it becomes necessary to replace any of the needles. The
plates N, N, are curved, as shewn, for the purpose of raising the needles at
the right time on the motion being reversed. Figure 11 indicates the
outline the needles will assume when acted upon by the plates N, N, and
pullies O, O. Figure 9* shows in elevation another arrangement for moving
the levers, to be used instead of the curved plate N.
pieces, of the form shewn. L is the moveable frame as
B is a lever connected to the
grooves a, a, are formed.
at the points a, a, and moves on an axle ', fixed to the frame L. D', D3,
are sliding plates with bevelled projections &³, d³, placed opposite to the
recesses a³, a, and with slots as in the thread carrier P, Figure 10, and are
connected together by a bar, so that when one is pushed back by coming in
contact with the stop from left to right, the other will move at the same time
in the same direction. The action of this arrangement will be as follows:-
When the frame L is moved in the direction shewn by the arrows, the slide A
will on the frame L reaching the end, be pushed up (and the slide A pushed
down) by means of the projection of the piece D₁ entering the recess d'
which is caused by the piece D¹ coming in contact with the stop E at the
end of the frame; the piece D2 being connected with D', will by the same
action recede from the recess a³, and thus allow the slide A2 to be force
down by the slide A' rising up, acting by means of the lever B. The slides
A1, A2, will thus be alternately in a right position to raise the needles in advance
of the roller O. Figure 12 is a transverse section of so much of a straight frame
as will be necessary to explain our further improvements in knitting machinery
A is a comb bar. B, the combs screwed to the comb bar A. C, moveable
plates fitted between the combs B, to which the needles are fixed, leve
with their surfaces. B is a cover for holding down the combs. are

page_text: levers moving in a fulcrum c. D are combs fixed to comb bars d'. E is a
presser bar, fixed as shewn, for the purpose of being lifted when necessary. F
is loop wheel, having the teeth parallel with its axis, and fixed to a bracket/",
and revolves on an axle f. Fig. 13 is a front view of the loop wheel F. G
is a bar supporting the needles, and at the same time serving to hold back
the work. His a roller revolving on an axle h', fixed to a bracket h². I is a
fixed bar, which carries the sliding piece L, to which the bracket f is fastened.
i is a bar for guiding the piece L. m is a bracket which has the thread.
carrier m attached to it. m², a spring for holding down the back end of the
thread carrier m'. N is a bar having inclined planes fixed on it to act in the
places where the thread carrier is wanted to sink between the needles. The
working of this frame will be as follows:-The piece (L) and bracket (*) are
moved together, backwards or forwards, by suitable mechanical means, the
feed wheel being a little in advance of the roller H. The thread guided by the
thread carrier (m) is laid in between the needles by the loop wheel F; the
roller II acting upon the levers C² will draw back the needles. The beards
of the needles in passing the presser E will be pressed down, and permit
the work O already made to be pushed over by the combs B. The thread
laid in between. the needles is brought under the beards by means of tho
projections on the loop wheel, and the receding of the needles from the
loop wheel; on the loop wheel F arriving at the extremity of the frame, or of
the divisions worked, the thread carrier m¹ is caused to sink below the
needles by the inclined plane N acting upon the back end of it. The sliding
bracket M is immediately stopped by a projection, as in the sliding piece
explained in reference to the ribbed frame. The feed wheel continues to
advance until it has completely passed the thread carrier, when it stops by a
sliding action, as in the case of the thread carrier. The piece L and bracket
h continue to move for a distance suflicient to bring the roller H beyond the
loop wheel F, when the roller II, the loop wheel F', and thread carrier m' aro
in a right position for reversing the motion, except that the thread carrier,
which has been standing still, is below the needles. Immediately on the
motion being reversed the thread carrier will rise above the needles, in con-
sequence of the action of the spring M and inclined plane N. The whole
then will proceed as before, the same operation taking place at each end of the
frame; it will be seen that at the precise point where the thread carrier sinks
below the needles the forming of loops ceases, the movement beyond that
point being necessary only for bringing the separate parts into proper position.
When these frames are required to shape the material, this may be partially
accomplished by widening the fabric, that is to say, when the fabric is com-

page_text: menced at any given width, this width can be increased by the arrangement
herein-after described. Figures 14 and 15 shew an arrangement for this
purpose. A is a wheel keyed on the axle a¹. B is a ratchet wheel fixed on
the same axle. The sliding bracket m is so arranged that it comes in contact
with the wheel A at the extremity of the frame, and this wheel answers as
a stop for the bracket m. When it is required to widen the fabrics, the
wheel A is moved one division by means of the ratchet wheel, which is acted
upon by a projecting spring palla on the sliding piece L, and thus allows the
'sliding bracket m to travel further on in proportion to the depths of the cuts
d', d', in the wheel A, and by this means the guide will travel one or two
needles further before sinking below the needles, according to the depth of
the division cut in the wheel A, which is brought opposite the projection on the
sliding piece L. It will be understood that the arrangement is applied when
desired in either of the frames described, instead of the stops, which are fixtures,
and allow only one length of travel to the thread carrier. When the work
is to be made all the same width, with the wheels last described fixed to act
upon the sliding brackets, the ratchet wheel must be thrown out of gear,
and the stop will then be always in the same place.
Fourth, our Invention consists in apparatus for introducing weft threads in
lace machinery, and in improved arrangements for making grounds and in
pile fabric so produced. We observe that weft threads in lace machinery
have heretofore been added to lace fabrics made thercon for the purpose of
ornamen ing the same, or of making grounds for narrow trimmings, by means
of guide bars forming thread carriers, which, in consequence of the arrange-
ments heretofore used could only act advantageously a short distance, and
also that it has been proposed to employ shuttles passing through sheds opened
in the warps so as to allow of ordinary weavings being produced in addition to,
and in combination with twist lace fabrics made in lace machines; but this
process would necessarily stop the machine during the time occupied by the
shuttles passing across, and would not admit of our improved arrangements,
so that but little advantage could be obtained by its use. Figure 16 is a
front elevation of part of a lace machine (the front bars being removed), and
Figure 17 a transverse section of the same, and Figures 18, 19, 20, and 21
are parts of the same shewn separately. A are comb bars; these are shown
wider apart than correspond with the other proportions in order to allow of
more distinctly shewing the pieces between; this alteration of proportions also
throws the lines of the bars and guides in different angles in the sketch to
what would be employed in constructing a frame. a', combs B, bars for carrying
the guide bar bracket b'; C, back driving shaft; D, tye bar;. E, facing bar;

page_text: F, back tye bar. By our additions and modifications the weft threads can be
kept in motion while the carriages are passing from one extremity to the
other, and may be placed so as to pass in front or back of the guide bars or
in the middle. The guide bars may have one guide to a carriage or less as
may be desirable; the threads of such guide bars may twist with the bobbin
threads or stand still, or they may be so placed that two or more guide bars
may be used, and a weft thread passed in front and back of each of them, and
allow of gimp weaving and other threads being worked amongst or in the
front of such guide bars and weft threads, by which means crapes, gauzes,
barèges, balzarines, muslin, and also thicker fabric, as the material from the
carriage bobbins may work nearly straight in the fabrics; also for making
Brussels carpets, thicker threads can be used for weft threads than could be
used as warp weft thread, and also finer bobbin thread can be used, as it can
be kept nearly straight in the middle of the fabric and be completely covered
by the warp and weft threads. We take the weft threads from large spools
or wood bobbins fixed under the frame, and in this exemplification we shew
four weft threads in action at one time; it will be understood that more or less
may be used as desired. 1 to 8 are eight endless chains or bands two for
cach weft thread used passing over 16 pullies H, 8 of which are keyed to
the two shafts n', 4 on each side of the machine, and 8 run loose on the same
shafts, 4 on each side of the machine. Figure 18 is a separate view of the
shaft shewing the arrangement of these pullies; 1, 3, 5, and 7 fast, the
others loose; the other end is the same, only that the pullies opposite the fast
pullies on one shaft are loose on the other. T, T2, are two bars each divided
into four parts, to admit the chains 1 to 8 shewn separately on an enlarged
scale. Figure 19, P1, P2, P3, P4, are four bars supporting the four thread
carriers P5 to 8, which (carriers) slide on these bars and have two holes in
cach. p9, p10, pl1, p12, are projecting studs, two to each of the carriers
p11, in a line with the chains 1, 3, 5, and 7, and p12 with the other
chain. O is a small double lever (Figures 20 and 21) to each of the
thread carriers fixed on a spindle O moving in bearings; the end of the
lever is covered with india rubber, or the lever may be made light
enough to allow a little springing action. R is a vertical rod moving
in two bearings, having small projecting arms p, p, and a light spring
arm
is another vertical rod guided in two bearings ', . K is
a lever moving on a fulcrum at ', and is connected to the rod I by
two links K. L is a lever moving at one end on a fulcrum at l, and has
a truck at the other end moved by the cam c', the lever L is held in
contact with the cam by the spring . M is a vertical rod moving in the

page_text: same line as the rod 1 in bearings m', m. The vertical rod M and Jare
connected by the links m³ and 3, the levers L and K are connected by a
rod . The shafts h' are driven from the driving shaft C by gearing s8, s, fixed
on cach side of the frame, one of the shafts h¹ revolving in an opposite direction
to the other, thus causing the chains 1, 3, 5, and 7, belonging to the guides
and p', to move in an opposite direction to the other chains and guides.
Each chain has one projecting pin v, and must be prevented from slipping by
pins in the pullies, or by other suitable means in the example explained. It
will be seen that the stud of each chain must be made to move at such a
speed that it shall travel half the length of the chain in four motions of the
machine and return to its original position in eight motions, and that the
carriers follow each other in succession.
We will first describe the motions of the apparatus operating on the
weft threads. The chains 1, 3, 5, and 7 moving from left to right, the
chains 2, 4, 6, and 8 will be moving from right to left, and the projecting
studs on the four first mentioned chains will come in contact with the
studs on the guide p7, and the projecting studs v on the chains 2, 4, 6,
& 8 will come in contact with the studs p on the guides and 8, and thus
propel cach carrier alternately from left to right and right to left. The action
produced on the arrival of each thread carrier on either end of the machine
will be as follows:-As soon as one of the projecting studs on the chains has
left the studs on the thread carrier, the thread carrier will stand still and the
weft thread which has been carried across the frame will be lifted up by the
action of the rod I rising up and closing the links m³ and is, thus catching
the thread which is further carried by the continued rising of the rod I until
it has reached the place shewn in the dotted lines. The threads are lifted up
and prevented from slipping off the link m³ by wires m*, m'. A wire y reaching
across the frame is introduced, to be lifted up from below the carriages to
above them at the same time that the weft thread rises for the purpose of
clearing the rod from any broken ends. The rod R is for the purpose of
taking hold of the weft thread while it is taken up by the link m³ (as shewn
in a red line), when the thread carrier is arriving at the end of the frame,
and preventing it from coming in contact with the carriages before the thread
carrier arrives at the opposite end; this is effected by the thread carrier coming
in contact with the small lever 21 on the rod R, which causes the rod R to be
turned partly round, and thus brings the spring arm
where it is held until the thread carrier arrives at the
under the weft thread,
other end of the frame,
when it again acts on the rod R at this end of the frame, and turns it partly
round as before, the two rods R being connected by a cord or wire r*; this

page_text: rod will be more conveniently placed under the machine, instead of in the
position shewn. The rod R at the first end will be turned back, and by its
altered position allow the weft thread to slip from under the spring arm .
A small pulley with notches is fixed on the top of the rods R, a light spring
pali entering the nothches to hold it from moving when required to be at rest.
Two such rods R are required to each thread carrier, and it is not necessary
for us to state in every place the number of the parts required, as it will be
understood by the description where duplicates are wanted. The lever O is
for the purpose of holding the thread at the hole pl, while the weft thread is
lifted by the link m³; this is effected by the thread carrier coming in contact
with one end of the lever O and thus pressing the thread against the carrier
while it is in this position as shewn, Figures 20 and 21. Figure 22 shews
in a tabular form the different positions taken by the thread carriers when the
machine is in motion, the thread carriers A & B being at the back of
the machine, and C and D in the front with the bobbin carriages in the back.
A is shewn at the left hand of the machine when it is taken up by the link
m³, B on the second division, C on the first division, and D on the third
division. By the motion given to the machine bringing the carriages into
the front, the thread carriers will at the same time through their gearing be
moved, A and B will then be in the first division, C in the second division,
and D at the right hand of the machine ready to be taken up by m³; on the
carriages being now brought into the back, A will be in the second division,
Bat the left hand of the machine, and C and D in third division and so
on as shewn, the arrows shewing the direction in which the carriers are
moving. It will be seen that when the machine has made eight motions
the thread carriers will be in the same position as at starting, Of course the
number of thread carriers and their positions must be regulated to suit the
fabrics required. If in the machine represented in Figure 16, one full guide
bar only be used between the thread carriers, and this bar be allowed to
stand still, and when the carriages are in the front, a front weft thread is
taken up and a back weft thread be taken up when the carriages are in
the back, tabby weavings will be produced. Figure 28 gives a table shewing
the positions and motions of guide bars to be worked (in the double tier
machine represented in Sheet I, Figure 1, of Livesey's Specification, herein-
5 after referred to,) in connection with the use of weft threads for the purpose
of making Brussels carpets, but without patterns.
Fifth, our Invention consists in improved instruments and arrangements for
producing pile and other fabrics, and our improvements under this head refer

page_text: This will be under-
to improvements in the instruments, combinations, and arrangements used for
producing pile fabrics, for which Letters Patent were granted to John Livesey,
Eighteenth September, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-one. In
Livesey's Specification, Sheet II., Figures 6, 7, and 8, the instrument P for
forming the pile is shewn in front of the ground bars 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. Our
improvements under this head consist in placing the instrument P at the back
of the ground bars instead of the front, and in improved forms and arrange-
ments given to these instruments. Figures 23, 24, 25, and 26 represent tho
improvements. Figure 23 shews the instrument P placed at the back, and
of an improved form. Figure 24 shews a section of the top part of another
form of this instrument when used for cut pile fabrics. In this case the top
part of the instrument is made of a triangular form, as shewn, so that the
four ends of the pile when cut may be of equal length.
stood by reference to the Drawing, when it will be seen that the four pile
threads coming from the ground over the instrument will be of equal length
when cut in the groove p'. Figure 25 is a modification of this arrangement,
the object being in either case to obtain four cut piles of equal length from
one instrument. Figure 26 is an altered arrangement of the instrument 27.
In
Figures 9 and 10, Sheet III., of Livesey's Invention before referred to.
this case the instrument is made long enough to reach below the carriages to
the top of the guide bars; guides s for the instrument are added, which move
into small combs s', s2, back and front; the pile thread is thrown across the
instrument when it is in the back combs, the instrument is then brought into
the front combs before the carriages enter the threads, and thus allows of
gimp weaving and other threads at the back of the instruments or on the
surface or other part of the work, a bar t, for the purpose of holding the
instrument firm and level, is caused to rise in the slots t', and is brought
forward in contact with the instruments, as shewn in dotted lines, by the pro-
jection t coming in contact with the stop t, during the ascent of the bar.
Figures 28, 29, 30, 33, 34, and 35 give different tables of cuts of wheels,
which when worked with the instruments and arrangements before mentioned,
enable us to bring the warp threads in sight of the workman; also, to wicker
the pile in the ground, as shewn in Figure 29,-the red lines are the pile
threads, the black lines, warp threads, and the points sections of the bobbin
threads, and to throw a pile across the instrument at every motion of the
machine and tie it fast in ground, as shewn, which at the same time causes
the pile to stand straight up, and with three pile bars to each carriage, two
can work in the ground whilst the third is crossing to form pilc. Also the

page_text: necessity of the pile thread being drawn round the instrument by the tension
and action of the bobbin thread is obviated, as the pile threads have only to
be retained by the bobbin threads, where they are placed by the points. Also,
when any of the pile threads are made to pass across the distance of two
carriages they will be thrown across the instrument P, and the bobbin thread,
which (pile threads) will at the same time form a pile, and also lap with the
bobbin thread and tie in the ground. In making solid fabrics, such as plushes,
&c., or in making cut pile with open work, according to this improvement, one
instrument to two carriages (instead of two), with one tie thread alternately
back and front, will be sufficient, and by using the arrangement and motion of
the guide bars shewn in Figure 33, and the triangular form of the instrument
at the top, as shewn in Figure 24, four rows of cut pile of equal length will
be formed by each instrument.
Sixth. Our Invention consists in the manufacture of new fabrics, one part
being at right angles to the other; and in fabrics made edgewise and tied
together at intervals, and in the arrangements for manufacturing the same.
A tubular form of the motions and positions of the guide bars necessary to
produce these fabrics is shewn in Figure 34. The two bars 1 and 2 are half
bars and working with alternate carriages; they should be supplied from sepa-
rate beams or spools; they are shown to go one gate, and while working in
this way make fabrics at right angles to the ground formed by the bar. 7, but
if made to go two gates they would form a top surface, from which it will be
seen that by employing separate guide bars to cach carriage in place of the
bars 1 and 2, and applying Jacquard machinery, ornamental devices may be
formed on the surface. For making fabrics edgewise and tyed together at
intervals, the bar 7 is left out and other boxes introduced between the bars
3 and 4, and having the same motions as square or loop net bars, the working
of which is well known.
Seventh. Our Invention consists in improved apparatus and arrangement
for making fringes and pile fabrics, and in the fabrics so produced. For this
purpose we use a machine constructed similarly to a lace machine, as shewn
in Livesay's Specification before mentioned in Figure 9, Sheet III., but
without bobbins and carriages, or combs. Figure 27, is a section of so much
of a lace machine as is necessary to show this part of our Invention. It will
be seen that the proportions and positions in Figure 27 are not shewn exactly
correct, but are only given to explain our alterations for the purpose of this
part of our Invention. The top part of the frame shewn in Figure 9, Sheet III.
of Livesey's Specification, including the facing bar, would require lowering to

page_text: avoid unnecessary motion to the point bars, as these require to move from the
top of the guides to the bottom of the facing bar. A is one end of the frame;
A', the bottom tie bar; E, facing bar; K, bar for carrying guide bar bracket,
K; Q, a bar (moving in a similar way to the bar Q', Livesey's Specification,
Sheet III., Figure 9), to which the instruments 97 are fixed. F, F, back and
front point bars; B, B, top.tic bars; 1 to 12, the guide bars. Our alterations
and additions are as follows:-The instrument q is made long enough to
reach down to the top of the guide bars. S is a bar introduced between the
guide bars, capable of being lifted up from the bracket K¹, by means of the
rods s', s', cach moving in two bearings s², s, acted on by a cam. The bar S
is attached to the rods s', s¹, by brackets s³. The cam must be so cut and
arranged that it will lift the bar S at the time the instruments q' are coming
forward, so as to follow the point bar and fall out of the way of the point bar and
instruments. Figure 30 exhibits in a tubular form the positions and motions of
the guide bars necessary for producing fabrics. When working with this arrange-
ment, supposing the guide bar to be placed in the position shewn, on the first
motion being given and the front point bar drawn out, the back point bar must
shog half a gate to the right hand, the instrument q7 must then go back and
the pile bar 12 move one gate to the right hand, the instrument must then come
forward and the back point bar move half a gate to the left hand, then the
front point bar will go in, and as it is going out the bar S will also rise, keeping
a short distance however below it; when it is near the facing bar the back
points must be drawn out, the guide bars change to the second motion, the
bar S must then descend and the front point bar shog half a gate to the left
hand, when the instrument 97 will go back, the pile bar 12 go one gate to the
left hand, the instrument come forward, the front point bar move half a gate
to the right hand, and then the back point bar will go in and the bar S rise to
its first position ready to recommence working. By employing a cutter acting
in a manner similar to that described in Sheet III., Figure 9 of Livesey's
Specification, these motions will make fringes edgewise, and if the bars 4 and 9
are supplied from separate beans and caused to move two gates instead of
one, as above mentioned, the fringes will be united and form one fabric.
And having now described the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we claim is as
follows:-
First, we claim in respect to the first head of our Invention the parts herein-
before described, as our additions to knitting machinery for the purpose of
introducing warp and weft threads, or of warp threads only, in knitting machi-

page_text: nery.
Also, the manufacture of a fabric which consists of knitted loops formed
by one continuous thread, as in ordinary stocking fabrics, and having warp
and weft threads or warp threads only (in straight lines, as in ordinary weav-
ing) in addition to the looped fabric worked therein.
Second, we claim, in respect of the second head of our Invention, the use
of a self-acting break in circular knitting frames, which stops the frame when
a hole occurs in the fabrics, as described.
Thirdly, we claim, in respect of the third head of our said Invention, first,
the improved frame for making ribbed hosiery work represented in Figure 8,
and herein-before described. Second, the use of a double set of moveable
needles for making ribbed hosing work. And third, the straight frame for
producing hosiery work, represented in Figures 12, 13, 14, and 15, and
herein-before described, in so far as regards the general arrangement and
combination of parts of which the same consists; and fourth, the use of the
arrangements represented in Figures 14 and 15, in combination with the
frames shewn in Figures 8 and 12, for the purpose of widening the fabrics
made thereon.
Fourth, we claim, under the fourth head of our Invention, the manufacture
of piled fabrics in twist lace and bobbin net machinery from a combination of
loops and piles, together with weft threads, when such fabrics are produced of
a greater width than trimmings. Also, the employment of a number of thread
carriers following each other in succession, whereby weft threads are worked
in lace machinery, as described in reference to Figures 16 and 17.
Fifth, we claim, under the fifth head of our Invention, the improved form
and position of the instruments described with respect to the said fifth head
of our Invention, whereby a greater amount of pile can be obtained
with fewer motions of the machinery than has heretofore been practicable,
and whereby we are also enabled to obtain four rows of cut pile to each
carriage.
Sixth, we claim the manufacture of fabrics, with one part at right angles
to the other part, and of fabrics made edgewise and tied together at intervals,
as described under the sixth head of this our Invention.
Seventh, we claim the apparatus and arrangements described under the
seventh head of this our Invention, for manufacturing fringes and pile fabrics.
Also the fabric described when made from several fringes united together.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Livesey, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
JOHN (LS.) LIVESEY.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Nineteenth day of February,
in the year of our Lord 1858, the aforesaid John Livesey came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Nineteenth day of February, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.