Improvements in Edging and Overseaming Machines.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 21st Nov., 1888
Complete Specification Left. 20th Aug.. 1889-Accepted. 12th Oct. 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Edging and Overseaming Machines.
We EMILE CORNELY, and ROBERT CORNELY, of the firm of E. Cornely and Son, of
87 Faubourg St. Denis, Paris, France, Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
The present improvements relate to two needle edging machines such for instance
as have been described and claimed in the English patent of Lindley and Taylor
No. 957 of April 4 1862. The said machine as well as other similar ones has two
principal defects which cause considerable difficulties for manufacturing purposes.
1. That the thread carrier which carries the transversal thread must make a very
rapid motion to interlace its thread properly into the seams of the two needles, thus
rendering it necessary to have a very steep cam to work it which prevents the machine
running at a high speed.
2. That the work of the seam will not be produced regularly owing to the fact that
the transversal threads between the two seams will come very close together near the
angles of the festoons and will leave spaces between them on the round convex lines,
thus much injuring the appearance of the work.
On the accompanying drawings,
Figure 1 represents an elevation of said machine.
Figure 2 represents a top view of the same.
The other figures represent detached views hereafter to be referred to.
A and B represent two needle hooks which are fastened to their needle bars A²
and B2, they produce two parallel rows of chain stitches either out of one single or
from two threads by any of the well known mechanisms. Each of the needle bars A²
and B³ is connected to a separate moving slide D and E which are driven from
the main shaft H2 by means of an eccentric pin and roller 4 which act in their cam
grooves 3 and 5, fig. 6. By modifying the shape of said cam grooves as represented
in fig. 6 the two moving slides D and E will work independently one from the other
thus imparting to each needle the desired speed necessary to do its work independently
of the other. This separate and independent motion of each of the two needles is the
chief improvement to overcome the difficulties stated in article 1 above, in contra
distinction to the machines used heretofore with one moving slide and one needle bar
only to which the two needles are secured and which thus make both the same
movements.
The oscillating thread carrier F may be operated by various means, one of them is
represented at fig. 1 where the main shaft H' turns the cam I which operates the
lever K to make it swing on its stud 6; lever K operates pitman L lever M and the
pinions N, O, P, R, S and H to which the thread carrier F is secured and which has
thus an oscillating motion around the needles imparted to it to the extent of about two
thirds of a turn. The operation of the two needles and their thread carrier F will be
understood by reference to figs. 9, 11 and 13 in elevations and 10, 12 and 14 in top
views.
In figs. 9 and 10 the thread carrier F makes its oscillation from the right to the
left and lays its thread 2 in front of the needle A which has made its movement down
to the material while the needle B has not yet commenced its downward motion, and
when the thread carrier F has arrived in the rear of the needles as represented at
figs. 11 and 12 the needle B also descends, and the thread 2 will be behind it and in
front of needle A. The two needles then descend to take up their threads for the
production of their seams and when they rise again the thread carrier F makes its
return motion from the right to the left and lays its thread in front of needle B and
behind needle A as represented at figs. 13 and 14, thus making the seam represented
in fig. 16. It is obvious that by this arrangement the thread carrier F can be operated
CD 01

page_text: by means of a very easy movement which permits of a great speed and which will
produce a safe and sure operation.
The thread of thread carrier F is conducted from bobbin T through the tension U
and the tension spring V to the eye of the thread carrier.
The same principle of separated needles can also be employed when one threaded
needle is employed with a hook needle or when two threaded needles are used; as our
invention can be applied to any machine provided with two needles which produces
two parallel seams of any kind.
The second point of improvement relates to the regular execution of the edging
seam as explained hereafter. For manufacturing purposes we use the feed which
is governed by a crank handle ✗, as thus the material need not be turned by
hand, but for edging purposes it is sufficient if the material is turned only one
third of a turn, in this case the needles need not turn with the crank handle and
remain always parallel to the straight edge of the material, they thus produce the
work represented in an outline at fig. 15 in which the two arcs represent the two
seams of the needles and the cross lines c, d, represent the lines of the stitches.
In the machines used heretofore the length of the stitches, once set, was invariable
and consequently the spaces between the cross lines, c, d, were diminishing con-
stantly towards the angles from d to d¹, while the lengths of the stitches 2, 3, 4,
5, 6 etc. remains the same, the consequence is that the cross threads are either
separated by spaces near the centre of the arc, or that they accumulate near the
angle so much as to make the work impossible; the problem to be solved was
therefor to make the lengths of the stitches on the arcs variable so that the spaces
between the cross threads should everywhere be the same, such as represented at, 12,
13, 14, 15, 16, and 17, while the lengths of the stitches will increase towards the
angle as represented at 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 etc. This is accomplished in the following
The crank handle X fig. 1 governs the pinions 24, 25, 26, 27 and 28, on the
latter is a small pinion 51 fig. 1b which is in gear with pinion 9, which by means
of its shaft acts upon the pinions i k, and upon the double lever m, which by
means of pitman n acts upon lever Y, which turns on its stud 50 figs. 1, 2, and 4
and 5. Z fig. 5 represents the slide which operates on the feed cam to produce
the feed of the machine, in its course upward its finger 29 strikes against the
stud P which thus determines the length of the stitch, the stud p is screwed into
the sleeve by raising the latter together with stud p the stitch is lengthened, by
lowering it the stitch is shortened. A pin 30 of the sleeve extends into a
mortice curve 31 of the lever Y and by turning said lever the sleeve
manner.
g
is raised
or lowered and thus the stitch is lengthened or shortened, and the mortice curve 31
has the peculiar incline that through the motion of the crank ✗ the stitches will
be lengthened while the feed is moving the material towards the angles, and that
they are shortened while working towards the middle of the arc of the festoon.
When working with one or with two needle hooks it is necessary that according to
the length of the stitches they should be supplied with more or less thread, which is
done by setting the needle hooks higher or lower so that they will draw longer or
shorter loops above the material, it is therefore necessary that the needles should be
simultaneously raised when the stitch is lengthened and that they should be lowered
when the stitch is shortened. This can be done by the following mechanism.
The needle bars A³ and B² are secured to the sleeves o and o² by means of the set
screws 32 (figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4) and a pin 33 of the sleeve o extends into the cam
groove 34 of the slide t which can move horizontally in suitable guides of the cam
slide E and which is held thereon by the screw 35. The forked shaped end of the
slide t embraces a rod u, which is secured in the hub of the lever s which turns upon
its stud w.
The levers is connected to the lever m by means of the pitman & and
when it is turned the rod u acts upon the slide t and moves it horizontally and its cam
groove 34 causes the pin 33, sleeve o, and needle bar B² to rise or to sink simulta-
neously with the lengthening or shortening of the stitch through the action of the crank
handle X. The needle bar A2 is operated upon by a similar device t' which is con-
nected with the cam slide D and which is also operated by the shaft u.

page_text: When the two chain stitch seams are produced by means of two needle hooks out of
one single thread by means of a sliding blade which pushes the thread in between the
two needles when they have arrived at their lowest positions, such as described in the
specification to letters patent No. 2483 of 25th May 1882, then the sliding blade must
also be governed by the crank handle in such a manner as to supply a greater length
of thread to the needle hooks when they are working on long stitches than at the time
when they are making short stitches which can be effected by an arrangement such as
represented at fig. 8 in an elevation and 8b in a plan.
The blade y is actuated by means of its rod z in its straight course from and
to the needles A B. The rod z is coupled to the sleeve 38 by means of the pin
on part 37 which extends in to the cam groove of sleeve 36. The sleeve 38
receives its movement from the main shaft of the machine through the pitman r
and lever and imparts thus to the blade y its rectilinear motion. By the action of
the crank X upon connecting rod 39 and upon lever 40 the latter is turned and
communicates its turning motion to the lever 37 by means of pin 41 which turns
on the sleeve 38, and the pin of 37 acting upon the cam groove of sleeve 36
causes the blade y to advance towards or to recede from the needles A, B, thus
supplying more or less thread to them in conformity with the length of the stitches.
When one or two threaded needles are employed instead of hook needles the tension
of their threads must also automatically vary in conformity with the length of the
stitches, which can be effected by means of an automatic tension represented at fig. 7
in which the stud p represented at fig. 5 bears against a movable tension disc 42 which
is in contact with a similar tension disk 43 both tensions disks can play upon the
rod 46 and the disk 43 is supported by the spring 44 and the screw nut 45, the thread
passes between the two tension disks and raising or lowering the stud pas shown (in
fig. 5) by the action of the crank handle X, the tension of the thread is loosened or
tightened in conformity with the lengths of the stitches.
It is evident that the arrangements for driving the thread carrier F can be con-
structed in different ways and manners, and that also the devices described above for
producing the variable lengths of stitches for raising and lowering the needles and for
supplying them with more or less thread can be much changed and that the same
effects can be produced in very various manners, we therefore do not limit our inven-
tion to the devices above described.
D
P
1000
For the Applicants,
W. E. GEDGE,
Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Edging and Overseaming Machines.
We EMILE CORNELY, and ROBERT CORNELY, of the Firm of E. Cornely and Son, of
87 Faubourg St. Denis, Paris, France, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The present improvements relate to two needle edging machines such for instance
as have been described and claimed in the English Patent of Lindley and Taylor
No. 957 of April 4 1862. The said machine as well as other similar ones has two
principal defects which cause considerable diffiulties for manufacturing purposes.
1. That the thread carrier which carries the transversal thread must make a very
rapid motion to interlace its thread properly into the seams of the two needles, thus
rendering it necessary to have a very steep cam to work it which prevents the machine
running at a high speed.
2. That the work of the seam will not be produced regularly owing to the fact that
the transversal threads between the two seams will come very close together near the
angles of the festoons and will leave spaces between them on the round convex lines,
thus much injuring the appearance of the work.

page_text: On the drawings left with the Provisional Specification :—
Figure 1 represents an elevation of said machine.
Figure 2 represents a top view of the same.
The other Figures represent detached views hereafter to be referred to.
A and B represent two needle hooks which are fastened to their needle bars A'
and B2, they produce two parallel rows of chain stitches either out of one single or
from two threads by any of the well known mechanisms. Each of the needle bars A²
and B2 is connected to a separate moving slide D and E which are driven from the
main shaft H2 by means of an eccentric pin- and roller 4 which act in their cam
grooves 3 and 5, Figure 6. By modifying the shape of said cam grooves as represented
in Figure 6 the two moving slides D and E will work independently one from the
other thus imparting to each needle the desired speed necessary to do its work indepen-
dently of the other. This separate and independent motion of each of the two needles
is the chief improvement to overcome the difficulties stated in article 1 above, in contra
distinction to the machines used heretofore with one moving slide and one needle bar
only to which the two needles are secured and which thus make both the same
movements.
The oscillating thread carrier F may be operated by various means, one of them is
represented at Figure 1 where the main shaft H2 turns the cam I which operates the
lever K to make it swing on its stud 6; lever K operates pitman L lever M and the
pinions N, O, P, QR, S and H to which the thread carrier F is secured and which
has thus an oscillating motion around the needles imparted to it to the extent of about
two thirds of a turn. The operation of the two needles and their thread carrier F will
be understood by reference to Figures 9, 11, and 13 in elevations and 10, 12, and 14
in top views.
In Figures 9 and 10 the thread carrier F makes its oscillation from left to right
and lays its thread 2 in front of the needle A which has made its movement down
to the material while the needle B has not yet commenced its downward motion,
and when the thread carrier F has arrived in the rear of the needles as represented
at Figures 11 and 12 the needle B also descends, and the thread 2 will be behind
it and in front of needle A. The two needles then descend to take up their threads
for the production of their seams and when they rise again the thread carrier F
makes its return motion from the right to the left and lays its thread in front of
needle B and behind needle A as represented at Figures 13 and 14, thus making
the seam represented in Figure 16. It is obvious that by this arrangement the
thread carrier F can be operated by means of a very easy movement which permits
of a great speed and which will produce a safe and sure operation.
The thread of thread carrier F is conducted from bobbin T through the tension U
and the tension spring V to the eye of the thread carrier.
The same principle of separated needles can also be employed when one threaded
needle is employed with a hook needle or when two threaded needles are nsed; as our
invention can be applied to any machine provided with two needles which produces
two parallel seams of any kind.
The second point of improvement relates to the regular execution of the edging
seam as explained hereafter. For manufacturing purposes we use the feed which
is governed by a crank handle ✗, as thus the material need not be turned by
hand, but for edging purposes it is sufficient if the material is turned only
one third of a turn, in this case the needles need not turn with the crank
handle and remain always parallel to the straight edge of the material, they thus
produce the work represented in an outline at Figure 15 in which the two arcs
represent the two seams of the needles and the cross lines c, d, represent the lines
of the stitches. In the machines used heretofore the length of the stitches, once
set, was invariable and consequently the spaces between the cross lines, c, d, were
diminishing constantly towards the angles from d to d¹, while the length of the
stitches 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 etc. remains the same, the consequence is that the cross
threads are either separated by spaces near the centre of the arc, or that they
accumulate near the angle so much as to make the work impossible; the problem

page_text: to be solved was therefore to make the lengths of the stitches on the arcs variable
so that the spaces between the cross threads should everywhere be the same, such
as represented at 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17, while the lengths of the stitches will
increase towards the angle as represented at 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 etc. This is
accomplished in the following manner.
The crank handle X Figure 1 governs the pinions 24, 25, 26, 27 and 28, on the
latter is a small pinion 51 Figure 1b which is in gear with pinion g, which by
means of its shaft h acts upon the pinions ik, and upon the double lever m, which
by means of pitman n acts upon lever Y, which turns on its stud 50 Figures 1; 2,
4, and 5. Z Figure 5 represents the slide which operates on the feed cam to
produce the feed of the machine, in its course upward its finger 29 strikes against
the stud p which thus determines the length of the stitch, the stud p is screwed
into the sleeve by raising the latter together with stud p the stitch is lengthened,
by lowering it the stitch is shortened. A pin 30 of the sleeve o extends into a
mortice curve 31 of the lever Y and by turning said lever the sleeve 4 is raised
or lowered and thus the stitch is lengthened or shortened, and the mortice curve 31
has the peculiar incline that through the motion of the crank ✗ the stitches will
be lengthened while the feed is moving the material towards the angles, and that
they are shortened while working towards the middle of the arc of the festoon.
When working with one or with two needle hooks it is necessary that according to
the length of the stitches they should be supplied with more or less thread, which is
done by setting the needle hooks higher or lower so that they will draw longer or
shorter loops above the material, it is therefore necessary that the needles should be
simultaneously raised when the stitch is lengthened and that they should be lowered
when the stitch is shortened. This can be done by the following mechanism.
The needle bars A² and B are secured to the sleeves o and o² by means of the set
screws 32. (Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4) and a pin 33 of the sleeve o extends into the cam
groove 34 of the slide t which can move horizontally in suitable guides of the cam
slide E and which is held thereon by the screw 35. The forked shaped end of the
slide t embraces a rod u, which is screwed in the hub of the lever s which turns upon
its stud w. The levers (Figures 2, 3 and 4) is connected to the lever m by means of
the pitman and when it is turned the rod u acts upon the slide t and moves it
horizontally and its cam groove 34 causes the pin 33, sleeve o, and needle bar B² to
rise or to sink simultaneously with the lengthening or shortening of the stitch through
the action of the crank handle X. The needle bar A² is operated upon by a similar
device t¹ which is connected with the cam slide D and which is also operated by the
shaft u.
When the two chain stitch seams are produced by means of two needle hooks
out of one single thread by means of a sliding blade which pushes the thread in
between the two needles when they have arrived at their lowest positions, such as
described in the Specification to Letters Patent No. 2483 of 25th May 1882, then
the sliding blade must also be governed by the crank handle in such a manner as
to supply a greater length of thread to the needle hooks when they are working
on long stitches than at the time when they are making short stitches which can
be effected by an arrangement such as represented at Figure 8 in an elevation
and 8 in a plan.
The blade y is actuated by means of its rod z in its straight course from and
to the needles A B. The rod z is coupled to the sleeve 38 by means of the pin
on part 37 which extends in to the cam groove of sleeve 36. The sleeve 38 receives
its movement from the main shaft of the machine through the pitman r and lever f
and imparts thus to the blade y its rectilinear motion. By the action of the crank X
upon connecting rod 39 and upon lever 40 the latter is turned and communicates
its turning motion to the lever 37 by means of pin 41 which turns on the sleeve 38,
and the pin of 37 acting upon the cam groove of sleeve 36 causes the blade y to
advance towards or to recede from the needles A, B, thus supplying more or less
thread to them in conformity with the length of the stitches.

page_text: When one or two threaded needles are employed instead of hook needles the tension
of their threads must also automatically vary in conformity with the length of the
stitches, which can be effected by means of an automatic tension represented at
Figure 7 in which the stud p represented at Figure 5 bears against a movable tension
disk 42 which is in contact with a similar tension disk 43 both tension disks can play
upon the rod 46 and the disk 43 is supported by the spring 44 and the screw nut 45,
the thread passes between the two tension disks and raising or lowering the stud pas
shown (in Figure 5) by the action of the crank handle X, the tension of the thread is
loosened or tightened in conformity with the lengths of the stitches.
It is evident that the arrangements for driving the thread carrier F can be con-
structed in different ways and manners, and that also the devices described above for
producing the variable lengths of stitches for raising and lowering the needles and for
supplying them with more or less thread can be much changed and that the same
effects can be produced in very various manners, we therefore do not limit our inven-
tion to the devices above described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that
we claim is :-
1. In an embroidering or edging machine, the combination of two parallel needles
supported and actuated independently of each other, a thread carrier for interlacing a
thread between the two needles, and operating mechanism for said parts, substantially
as described.
2. The combination of the parallel needles and co-operating stitch forming mechanism
for making separate parallel seams, needle-bars, one for each needle, needle-slides, one
for each needle, mechanism for reciprocating said slides, and a thread carrier, sub-
stantially as described.
3. The combination of needles and co-operating stitch forming mechanism for
making separate parallel seams, needle-bars, one for each needle, an oscillatory thread
carrier for laying a thread between said needles, a separate slide for each needle-bar,
each slide having a cam, and a moving part acting on said cams for reciprocating said
slides, said cams being arranged relatively to each other, as specified, whereby one
needle completes its stroke in advance of the other, substantially as described.
4. The combination, with the feed-bar, feed-slide for actuating the same, and the
governing handle of a universal feed, of an adjustable stop arranged in the path of a
projection of said slide so as to limit its stroke, said stop and handle being connected
together, so that the motion of the latter to change the direction of the feed raises or
lowers said stop, substantially as described.
5. The combination, with the feed-slide and governing handle of a universal feed,
of a stop for limiting the stroke of said slide, a cam for changing the position of said
stop to vary the stroke of said slide, and connections, as specified, between said cam
and handle, the acting face of said cam being disposed, as herein set forth, to move
said stop in the direction to lengthen the stroke of the feed slide when the direction of
the feed is changed to work from the centre on an arc toward the angle, substantially
as described.
6. The combination, with a reciprocatory needle-bar and the universal feed
mechanism, including a governing crank-handle of a cam and connections for varying
the length of stroke of said needle-bar, said cam being connected with and operated
by said crank handle, substantially as described.
7. The combination of a needle-bar, universal feed mechanism, including a feed
slide and governing crank handle, and mechanism, as specified, controlled by said
handle for varying the length of feed, said needle-bar being connected with said
handle, whereby the stroke of the former is varied in accordance with the variations
in the length of stitch, so as to draw more or less thread for the needle, substantially
as described.
8. The combination, with variable universal feed mechanism, including a governing-

page_text: handle for varying the length of feed in changing its direction, of a tension comprising
tension-disks, between which the thread passes, and an adjustable stud or pin for
regulating the pressure of said disks, said stud or pin being connected with and ad-
justed by said handle in accordance with the variations of the feed, substantially as
described.
9. The combination, with hook needles and the variable universal feed
mechanism, including a governing-handle of a sliding blade for pushing thread
hetween said needles, said blade being connected by devices, such as herein specified,
through which the motions of said handle are transmitted to said blade, substantially
as described.
Datinth das of t 1880
For the Applicants,
W. E. GEDGE,
Agent.