Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 25th June, 1898-Accepted, 15th Oct., 1898
I, WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., l'atent Agents,
45, Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, and more especially
in wax thread sewing machines for sewing boots and shoes. It has for its objects,
to provide means whereby the thread is delivered to the needle from the tension
device by the mechanical operation of said tension device, in order to prevent
strain on the thread between the needle and tension device, or on the needle or
other parts of the machine through which the thread passes on its passage from
the tension device to the needle, and also to prevent strain on the stock being
sewn, to dispense with the use of a pull off and the thread brakes, which usually
accompany the pull off; to give the needle a slight forward movement towards the
stock in unison with the feeding of the stock, thus compensating for the angular
lead of the thread from the looper, through the stock, to the needle, and back to
the stock during the feeding of the stock, preventing the straining or breaking
of the thread, the cutting of the stock, or the pulling backward of the stock after
it has been fed, as is the case with machines now in use; to arrange the channel
guide in advance of the feed point on the line of the feeding of the stock, so that
the machine can sew around a much smaller curve than machines having a channel
guide and an awl or feed point feed in which the feed point is in advance of the
channel guide in the line of the feeding of the stock; and to improve the machine
in minor details of construction as will be fully set forth, and described.
The invention is especially designed for a hook curved-needle wax-thread sewing
machine, to sew turn boots and shoes but many of the devices as herein described
and claimed might be used in sewing machines of other constructions from that
shown and described, and I wish it to be understood that I do not confine myself
to the use of these devices in sewing machines of any particular construction, or
for any particular kind of work.
Heretofore it has been customary in sewing machines of this construction and
for the purpose for which this machine is designed, to have the necessary thread
used in the formation of the stitch, drawn from the thread supply through the
tension device either under tension, or while the tension is for the time released,
by means of the needle itself, or by a suitable pull off, with or without suitable
thread-brakes either of which constructions cause more or less strain to be brought
CD

page_text: upon the needle the stock being sewed and upon the thread itself. Also in machines
as heretofore constructed having a channel guide and feed point for feeding the
stock being sewed; it has been found to be difficult to properly feed the stock
when sewing around a curve of a small radius, especially when sewing the toes of
very pointed boots or shoes, as the channel guide cannot be kept in the channel
and have the needle perforate the stock in the proper place to lay the stitch
within the channel.
By the use of my improved device as hereinafter described the above objections
to the machines now in common use are obviated.
Referring to the accompanying drawings which illustrate my improvements,
as applied to a hook curved-needle sewing machine and form an essential part of
this specification:
Figure 1 represents a plan view of the head of the sewing machine.
Figure 2 represents a side elevation of the same as seen from the right side of
the machine showing a small portion of the upper end of the standard to which
the head is attached.
Figure 3 represents a side elevation of the opposite side of the head of the
machine, from that shown in Figure 2, showing the driving shaft in section, and
the driving pulley removed.
Figure 4 represents a horizontal section on the line A--B shown in Figure 3.
Figure 5 represents a detail sectional view of the means employed to cause the
auxiliary back gauge to be pressed forward with a yielding pressure.
Figure 6 represents a detail sectional view of the means employed to adjust the
position of the channel guide in and out of the channel in the stock being sewed.
Figure 7 represents a detail view showing the course of the thread through
the tension device, and from the tension device to the stock; also the mechanism
employed to cause the mechanical feeding of the thread from the tension device,
for the formation of the stitch.
Figure 8 represents a longitudinal section of the shaft on which the tension
wheel is mounted on the line C-D in Figure 7.
Figure 9 represents a detail view of the needle, the looper, the feed point, the
channel guide and adjacent parts of the head of the machine, showing such parts
in positions occupied when the needle has penetrated the stock, the looper has
looped the thread upon the needle and the feed point and channel guide are in
position to feed the stock, as soon as the needle has drawn the loop through the
stock.
Figure 10 represents a detail view of the same parts as shown in Figure 9
but showing such parts in positions occupied by them after the needle has drawn
the loop through the stock and the stock has been fed by the feed point.
Figure 11 represents a section on the line E-F shown in Figure 9.
Figure 12 represents a section on the line G-H shown in Figure 9.
Figure 13 represents a detail view of a modified form of the mechanism employed
to cause the mechanical feeding of the thread, from the tension device, for the
formation of the stitch.
Figure 14 represents a section on the line I-J shown in Figure 13.
Figure 15 represents a cross section on the line K-L shown in Figure 14, and
Figure 16 represents a side elevation of the tension shaft showing a slight
variation in the device used to mechanically operate the tension wheel to deliver
thread to the needle for the formation of the stitch.
Similar characters of reference refer to similar parts wherever they occur on
the different parts of the drawings.
The head of the machine is mounted upon a suitable standard 1, Figures 2 and 3,
said head being provided with a suitable frame 2, for the support of the various
devices constituting the head. Within bearings in the frame 2 is journalled the
driving shaft upon which are firmly mounted the driving pulley or balance
wheel 4 and the cams and 6, which shaft is rotated by means of a suitable belt
on the pulley 4 as is usual with machines of this class."

page_text: My present invention does not relate to the construction or arrangement of
the needle, the looper, its operating mechanism, or the needle guide, as such parts
may be made and operated in any common well known and suitable manner, and
I shall not enter into an elaborate description of these devices.
To the front of the frame 2 is firmly attached the bracket 7, and to said bracket
is pivoted the oscillating needle block 8 which is guided in its movements within
guides in the bracket. A curved hook needle 9 is attached in the usual manner
to the needle block, and is guided in its movements by means of the needle
guide, 10 as usual. A lever 11 is fulcrumed to the frame 2 and is connected at
its lower end to the needle block by means of the connecting rod 12. The lever 11
is provided with a pin and roll 13 which is guided in the cam groove 14 (shown
by dotted lines in Figure 3) in the cam 5, which cam groove causes the needle
block and attached needle to intermittently oscillate and the needle to pierce and
withdraw from the stock.
Within a bearing in the forward part of the bracket 7 is mounted the oscillating
looper 15 in such a position that its lower end will oscillate around the projecting
point of the needle when the needle is forced through the stock and by so doing
will loop the thread into the hook in the needle. A lever 16 is fulcrumed at its
lower end to the frame 2 and at its upper end is connected by means of the con-
necting rod 17 to a sliding toothed rack 18 which slides forward and backward
within guides in the bracket 7 and meshes into a toothed pinion 19 on the upper
end of the looper. The lever 16 is provided with a pin and roll 20 which is guided
within a cam groove 21 (shown by dotted lines in Figure 2) in the cam 6; which
cam groove causes an intermitting reciprocation of the rack 18 and oscillation of
the looper.
Within bearings in a bracket 22 attached to the back of the frame 2, is mounted
the tension shaft 23, which has a longitudinal movement in said bearings but is
prevented from rotating therein by means of the key and key-way 24. Upon
one end of the shaft 23 is screwed or otherwise firmly attached the flange 25 and
upon the shaft Figures 1 and 4, between said flange and a second flange 26
attached to or made in one piece with the bracket 22, are loosely mounted the
tension wheel, (preferably made in two parts 27, 27 and held together by means
of the screws 28, 28), the ratchet wheel 29, (attached to the tension wheel by means
of the screws 30, 30, Figures 3 and 4, or made integral therewith) and the friction
producing washers 31, 31 (made of felt or other suitable material, and introduced
respectively between the tension wheel and its adjacent flange, and between the
ratchet wheel and its adjacent flange). The opposite end of the shaft 23 is screw
threaded and provided with the thumb nut 32, and upon said shaft between said
nut and the bracket 22 is placed the spring 33, which tends to move said shaft
longitudinally within its bearings and produces tension on the thread carried over
the tension wheel. It will be seen that the amount of tension on the thread can
be adjusted by the adjustment of the nut 32 upon the shaft 23 as is common with
tension devices now in use.
The shaft 23 is provided with an extension 34 which is screwed into the screw
threaded hub of the flange 25 or otherwise firmly attached thereto. This extension
is screw threaded on its outer end and provided with a nut and check nut 35
adjustable thereon. A bracket 36 Figures 1 and 3 is attached to the upper end
of the standard 1 or to some other stationary part of the machine, and to the
outer end of this bracket is fulcrumed at 37 the lever 38 which is forked at one
end, and embraces the extension 34. A washer 39 is placed upon the extension 34,
between the forked end of the lever 38 and the nut and check nut 35.
It will be seen that the lever 38 may be turned upon its fulcrum in such a
manner, that its forked end will press against the washer 39 and thereby cause
the shaft 23 to move longitudinally in its bearings releasing the friction from
the tension wheel and consequently the tension from the thread. This tension
releasing lever may be operated either by hand or automatically by the treadle
which starts and stops the machine, or by an independent treadle. In order to

page_text: operate said lever by hand, I provide its forward end with a suitable handle 40
as shown in Figure 3. If the tension release lever is to be operated by means of
a treadle, I provide the standard of the machine with an intermediate lever 41.
The upper end only of this intermediate lever has been shown on the drawings
in Figure 3, as the particular connection between the lever and the treadle or
manner of operating said lever, forms no part of this invention, and may be
accomplished in any well known manner. The upper end of the intermediate
lever rests against the side of the tension release lever and operates the release
lever to release the tension on the thread by pressing the release lever towards the
standard of the machine.
Upon the shaft 23 is loosely mounted the sector gear 42 which is provided with
the arm 43 and to said arm, at 44, is pivoted the pawl 45 in such a position that
its attached tooth 46 is normally held in engagement with a tooth of the ratchet
wheel 29 or said tooth may if so desired be held in contact with the ratchet wheel
by means of a yielding spring pressure as shown in Figure 16.
A bell crank lever 47 is fulcrumed at 48 Figures 1 and 4 to the frame 2 which
lever is provided at one end with the pin and roll 49 guided within a cam groove 50
in the cam 6. The opposite end of the lever 47 is provided with a slot 51 within
which the fulcrum 52 for the rack 53 is adjustably but firmly held. A guide 54
for the rack 53 is loosely mounted upon the hub of the sector gear 42 or upon
the shaft 23 and tends to keep the teeth of the rack 53 in mesh with the teeth
of the sector gear 42.
It will be seen that the cam groove 50 is of such a shape that it causes the
lever 47 to intermittingly oscillate upon its fulcrum, which in turn causes the
intermitting reciprocation of the rack 53, and consequent oscillation of the pawl 45.
This oscillation of the pawl causes an intermitting rotation of the tension wheel 27
and a consequent delivery of thread from said tension wheel. The amount of
rotation imparted to the tension wheel, by the action of the cam groove 50, and
intermediate mechanism, is such that the thread delivered thereby at each move-
ment of the wheel is substantially equal to or a little less than the amount of thread,
necessary to form a single stitch and such amount is adjusted by means of the
adjustment of the fulcrum, 52 within the slot 51 in the lever 47 as will be under-
stood. The action of the cam groove 50 is so tinied in relation to the movements of
the needle that the thread delivered thereby will be delivered in sufficient quantities
as the looper loops the thread into the hook of the needle and as the needle draws
the loop through the stock and before it has completed such operation, the extreme
backward movement of the needle being made while the tension is on the thread
after the pawl has accomplished its work so as to properly set the stitch.
By the use of this mechanically operated tension device the usual strain upon
the needle and other parts of the machine while drawing the thread from the
tension wheel under tension, is done away with, the liability of cutting, straining
or tearing the stock on account of the strain, and the angular lead of the thread
is obviated, and the certainty as to the amount of thread delivered from the tension
wheel at each and every operation of the pawl 45 is assured. This latter is a
great advantage over the machines now in use in which thread-brakes are used
in connection with a suitable pull off, said thread-brakes being interposed between
the pull off and the stock being sewed, as the thread is very liable to slip through
the brakes and allow the pull off to draw thread from the needle side of the pull
off, and not to draw it from the tension device. The amount of thread delivered
by the mechanical operation of the tension device is certain and is preferably
enough to form the next stitch with the addition of the slight amount drawn,
while the tension is on the thread, to properly set the stitch.
The pawl 45 may be provided with a thread truck 55 over which the thread is
conveyed in such a manner as to cause the tooth of the pawl to be held firmly in
engagement with the teeth of the ratchet, when the thread is drawn tight, but
such thread truck may be dispensed with as shown in Figure 16, and in most
cases I prefer to so dispense with this truck as it is very liable to act as a take

page_text: up when the pawl 45 is moved backward by the cam. To withdraw the tooth of
the pawl from engagement with the teeth of the ratchet wheel, after it has caused
the necessary thread to be delivered from the tension wheel and to hold said tooth
out of engagement while the pawl is returning to position to again cause the
delivery of thread, the pawl 45 is provided with the pin and roll 56 Figures 7
and S and a lever 57, is fulcrumed at 58 to the frame 2 which lever is provided
at one end with a pin and roll 59 guided within a cam groove 60 in the cam 5,
and at the other end said lever is provided with the circular surface 61 which
engages the pin and roll 56 when said lever is turned upon its fulcrum by the
action of said cam groove. The engagement of the pin and roll 56 by the circular
surface of the lever 57, causes the tooth of the pawl to disengage the teeth of the
ratchet wheel, and holds such parts in disengagement while the sector gear
causes the pawl to move backward into position to again rotate the tension wheel;
the pin and roll on the pawl moving during this time on the circular surface
on the lever 57.
To prevent the pawl 45 from being rotated too far on its fulcrum 44, and thus
withdrawing the tooth of the pawl too far from the teeth of the ratchet wheel
either by centrifugal action caused by the rapid action of the machine or when
the pawl is raised by the action of the lever 57, I provide the tail of the pawl
with a set screw which is adjustably mounted therein, and which comes in contact
with the projection 62 on the arm 43 of the sector gear, and limits the movements
of said pawl as will be readily understood.
The course of the thread from the tension wheel to the looper is over the truck 55
on the pawl 45 (provided however that such a thread truck is used) over the
thread truck 63 mounted preferably upon the top of the bracket 7, under the
thread truck 64 mounted upon the end of a lever 65, which lever is pivotally
mounted upon the stud for the truck 63, and is acted upon by means of a suitable
spring 66 Figures 3 and 7 attached to said lever, and the some stationary part
of the machine, said lever being spring pressed and acting to draw said thread
from the course it would naturally take between the truck 63 and the thread
truck 67 over which it is carried from the truck 64 and finally through the hollow
looper shaft and perforation in the looper.
The action of the spring actuated lever 65 upon the thread is to draw the
thread out of a straight line in its course between the trucks 63 and 67 thereby
controlling any slack thread between the tension wheel and the needle, and it
is also to hold the thread in such a position until the strain on the thread is
sufficient to overcome the power of the spring 66 in which case the lever will
yield against the action of the spring and thereby cushion any sudden increase
in the strain on the thread which would otherwise tend to break the same.
To add to the strength of the spring cushioning of the lever 65 I provide the
frame of the machine with a spring pressed bumper 68 against which the end of
the lever comes when sufficient strain is brought to bear upon the thread to over-
come the strength of the spring 66. This spring pressed bumper acts as a cushion
to the lever 65 and by its action any strain on the thread which is sufficient to
overcome the strength of the spring 66 is cushioned.
The back gauge 69 is pivoted at 70 Figure 2 to the slide 71 and its forward
end is adjusted up and down to its proper position relative to the stock and needle,
the gauge being held in its adjusted position by means of the set screw 72 screwed
into the back gauge through a slot in the slide 71. The slide 71 is guided and
movable forward and backward within guides in the frame 2 and is provided
with a stud 73 Figure 4 which projects through a slot in the frame into a tubular
recess 74 extending inward from the rear of the frame. The tubular recess 74
is screw threaded in its outer end and provided with a perforated plug 75 screwed
and adjustable therein. A rod 76 is attached to the stud 73 and projects back-
ward therefrom being guided loosely within the perforation in the plug 75. A
spring 77 surrounds the rod 76 between the stud 73 and the plug 75 the action of

page_text: said spring being to force the back gauge forward with a yielding pressure against
the stock. The end of the rod 76 which projects beyond the plug is screw
threaded and provided with the nut 78 adjustable on said rod. It will thus be
seen that the forward movement of the back gauge caused by the spring 77 is
limited and adjusted by means of this nut upon the rod 76.
The lever 79 is fulcrumed at 80 to the frame 2 and is provided with the pin
and roll 81 which is guided within a cam groove 82 on the cam 5 as shown in
Figure 3. Upon the back gauge slide 71 is adjustably but firmly secured the
bracket 83 and the spring 84 is preferably interposed between the lower end of
the lever 79 and said bracket which spring is held in place by means of the
stud 85 secured to said bracket. The lower end of the lever 79 is forked to receive
the stud 85 when said lever is operated to withdraw the back gauge as will be
described hereinafter.
From the above description of the back gauge and its connected mechanism, it
will be seen that by the action of the cam groove 83 on the lever 79 the lower end
of said lever is caused to oscillate towards and from the bracket 83 and that when
said lever is moved towards said bracket the spring 84 will be compressed until
the pressure caused thereby exceeds the strength of the spring 77. This will
cause the compression of the latter spring and the backward movement of the
slide 71 with its attached back gauge thus causing the withdrawal of the back
gauge from contact with the stock being sewed. The interposition of the spring 84
between the back gauge operating lever and the bracket on the back gauge slide
forms a yielding cushion between said parts and yet allows the back gauge to be
forced backward against the influence of the spring 77 by the stock independent
of the operating lever 79 thus forming a yielding back gauge.
The auxiliary back gauge 86 is preferably made in the form of a roll pivotally
mounted upon the outer end of the slide 87 Figure 5 which slide is guided and
movably mounted within guides in the frame 2 in a similar manner to the back
gauge slide. The slide 87 is provided with gear teeth 88 which mesh into the
teeth of a sector gear 89 pivotally mounted upon the stud 90 on the bed of the
frame 2. A clock spring 91 is attached at one end to the sector gear 89 and at
the other end to the stud 90, the tendency of said spring being to force the
auxiliary back gauge forward with a yielding pressure and the character of the
spring tends to make such pressure approximately even at any position of the
auxiliary back gauge. By the use of the clock spring and the consequent slight
variation in the strain upon the same the auxiliary back gauge is more sensitive
and the spring is less liable to crystalize and break.
The back gauge slide 71 and the auxiliary back gauge slide 87 are held within
their respective guides in the frame 2 by means of the caps 92 and 93 substan-
tially as shown in Figures 3 and 4. Within bearings in the cap 93 are mounted
and longitudinally movable, the locking bolts 94, 94 one for each of the slides 71
and 87, which bolts are each provided with serrations or teeth, adapted to engage
the teeth of the racks 95, 95, one of said racks being attached to each of the
slides 71 and 87 as shown. The bolts 94 are normally held in engagement with
racks 95 by means of the springs 96 surrounding said bolts within the bearings
for the same.
A lever 97 is fulcrumed at 98 to the frame 2 and is provided on its
upper end with the pin and roll 99 which is guided within a cam groove 100 on
the hub of the cam 5. The lower end of said lever is provided with two per-
forations through which the outer ends of locking bolts 94 project and within which
they are loosely movable. The end of the bolts 94 are screw threaded and are
each provided with the nut and check nut 101. Thus it will be seen that the
action of the cam groove upon the lever 97 will cause the lower end of said lever
to intermittingly withdraw the locking bolts 94 from engagement with their
respective racks 95 and permit the springs acting on the back gauge and auxiliary
back gauge slides to force said slides forward with a yielding pressure or said
lever will be moved in the opposite direction and by withdrawing from contact

page_text: with the nuts 101 on said bolts, will permit the springs 96 to force said bolts into
engagement with the racks 95 and thereby lock the slides 71 and 87 firmly in the
position they then occupy. The back gauge and auxiliary back gauge are locked
by the spring bolts 94 during the time that the needle is withdrawing from the
stock with the loop of thread in its hook and are so locked to provide a rigid
support for the stock during this operation of the needle.
This locking device for the back gauge and for the auxiliary back gauge is
similar to those now in common use, and I do not claim any particular invention
in the use of the same but its description is simply inserted to cause a clearer
understanding of the operation of the complete machine, as will be set forth
hereinafter.
The machine is provided with a channel guide to move within the channel in
the stock and thereby properly guide and hold the stock in position while being
sewed. The machine is also provided with a feed point having four movements
whereby the stock is fed the desired distance between each stitch formed which
movements are similar to the feed points on many of the machines designed for
the same purpose, and now in common use.
In machines as hitherto made having a channel guide and a feed point or awl
to feed the stock, the channel guide has been so arranged that it is very difficult
and in some cases impossible to properly feed the stock or to properly lay the
stitches within the channel when sewing around a curve of a short radius as
around the toe of a pointed boot or shoe. In order to obviate this difficulty, I
arrange my channel guide in advance of the feed point in the line of the feeding
of the stock as will be described hereinafter.
Within guides on the front of the frame 2 is mounted the laterally movable
slide 102 which is reciprocated laterally within its guides, by the action of the
cam groove 103 in the cam 6 upon the pin or roll 104 on the lever 105 fulcrumed
at 106 to the frame 2 which lever is connected to the slide by means of the con-
necting rod or link 107, said connecting rod being adjustably connected to the
lever 105 within a slot in said lever so as to vary the amount of reciprocation
imparted to the slide 102 on account of the adjustable connection. To an ear 108
on the slide 102 is pivotally mounted the feed point operating lever 109 which is
forked and receives the pin block or roll 110 on one arm of the bell crank lever 111
fulcrumed at 112 to the frame 2; the other arm of the lever 111 being provided
with the pin and roll 113 guided within a cam groove 114 in the cam 6. The
action of the cam groove 114 upon the pin and roll 113 is such that it causes the
lower end of the lever 109, through its connected mechanism as described, to
move forward and backward.
Within a perforation in the lower end of the lever 109 is mounted the stud 115
which may be rotated or moved longitudinally within said perforation and which
is formly held after being properly adjusted as hereinafter set forth, by means
of the set screw 116. With a perforation in the head of the stud 115 is mounted
the feed point 117 in such a manner that it can be rotated or moved longitudinally
within said perforation and which is firmly held after being properly adjusted
as hereinafter set forth, by means of the set screw 118. By this construction
of the connection between the feed point and the feed point lever 109 I am enabled
to adjust the position of the lower end of the feed point laterally towards or from
the plane of the movements of the needle and backward or forward in or out of
the channel in the stock.
The combined actions of the cam grooves 103 and 114 upon the feed point are
such that the feed point will have four motions and thereby cause the intermitting
feeding of the stock between each stitch formed and the adjustment of the amount
of reciprocation given to the slide 102, will vary the length of the feed or the
siitch.
To a second ear 119 on the slide 102 is pivotally mounted the lever 120 and to
the lower end of said lever the channel guide 121 is attached by means of the
screws 122, 122 in such a manner that it is adjustable up and down upon said
lever in order to bring the channel into which said guide projects, in proper

page_text: position so that the needle will enter said channel after it has pierced the stock
and therefore lay the stitch properly within the channel. The upper end of the
lever 120 is provided with the roll 123 which is held in contact with the head of
the flat headed screw or bolt 124 screwed into the end of and forming an extension
to the stud 125 which stud is mounted and longitudinally movable within a
bearing in the frame 2 or a bracket attached to said frame as shown in Figure 6.
The stud 125 is provided with a roll 126 which travels upon the cam surface 127
on the cam 6. The spring 128 attached to the lever 120 and to the frame 2 tends
to hold said lever against the bolt 124 and the stud 125 against the cam sur-
face 127. The head of the bolt 124 is of sufficient size to allow the roll 123 to
move thereon when the lever 120 is moved laterally with the slide 102 to which it
is attached and with which it is moved when the stock is fed.
The action of the cam surface 127 and the spring 128 upon the lever 120 is
such as to cause said lever to be rocked slightly upon its fulcrum and the lower
end of the attached channel guide to be moved into and out of the channel in the
stock. These movements of the channel guide in connection with the lateral
movements imparted to said guide by the movements of the slide 102 causes the
channel guide to have four movements similar to those given to the feed point
and said movements are substantially in unison with the movements of the feed
point.
By referring to Figures 9 and 10 of the drawings it will be seen that the
channel guide is located in advance of the feed point on the line of the feeding
of the stock and it is preferably very close to said feed point. It will also be seen
that the feed point moves from a position at the right of the needle to a position
in front of or into the plane of the movements of the needle when the work is fed. It
will further be seen that, as the channel guide is so located in such a position with
reference to the feed point and moves laterally a distance substantially equal
to and in unison with the feed point, it must move across or through the plane
of the movements of the needle. This arrangement of the channel guide
materially reduces the spread between the channel guide and the needle, and this
reduction of the spread between said parts allows of the proper. feeding of the
stock when sewing around curves of small radii for instance around the toes of
boots and shoes.
By feeding the stock with a feed point as described and moving said feed point
from a position at one side of the needle into the plane of the movements of and
in line with the needle so that the needle will enter the indentation made in the
stock by the feed point, said feed point performs in a measure, the functions of
an awl and lessens the strain on the needle operating mechanism, when forcing
the needle through the stock.
In Figures, 13, 14, and 15, I have illustrated another construction of the
mechanism which may be employed to produce tension on the thread, and to
cause the mechanical operation of the tension device to feed the thread for the
formation of the stitches, which construction is substantially as follows:
The tension shaft which has its bearing in the bracket 22 is made in two
sections 129 and 130, the section 129 being splined within its bearing in the
bracket and allowed a longitudinal movement only. A flange 131 is firmly
mounted on one end of the section 129 and a spring 132 surrounds said section
between a shoulder thereon and a screw threaded sleeve 133 screwed into the screw
threaded portion of the bearing for said section, the tendency of said spring being
to move said section of the tension shaft longitudinally in its bearings.
The section 130 of the tension shaft is free to rotate or to move longitudinally in
its bearing in the bracket 22 and upon one end of said section is firmly mounted
the tension wheel 134. Upon the section 130, between the tension wheel and a
flange 135 attached to or made in one piece with the bracket 22, is mounted one
or more felt or other friction producing washers 136. A spring 137 surrounding
the section 130 tends to move said section longitudinally in its bearing and
thereby produce friction between the tension wheel and the flange 135 or the

page_text: washers introduced between said parts. Between the flanges 131 and the tension
wheel 134 is introduced the felt or other friction producing washer or washers 138
and it will be seen that the combined actions of the springs 332 and 137 produce
tension on the tension wheel 134 which tension is adjusted as desired by means of
the sleeve 133 and the nut and check nut 130 as will be readily understood.
Upon the section 130 of the tension shaft is firmly mounted the sleeve 140
which is provided with a flange having the flattened sides 141, 141, as shown in
Figure 15.
Upon said section and said sleeve, is loosely mounted a second
sleeve 142 having a circular recess to receive the flange on the sleeve 140. The
circular wall of the recess in the sleeve 142 in combination with the flattened
sides of the flange on the sleeve 140 form tapering chambers within which are
placed the rolls 143, said rolls being of such size that they rest against the wall
of the circular recess and against the flattened sides of the sleeve 140. Springs 144
tend to prevent said rolls from moving into the tapering end of the chambers
formed in the recess. It will be seen that the two sleeves, the rolls and the
springs form a clutch which will allow the sleeve 142 to be rotated freely in the
direction opposite to that indicated by the arrow in Figure 15 but when the
sleeve 142 is rotated in the direction indicated by the arrow in said figure the
rolls move into the tapering part of the chambers formed within the recess and
thereby lock the two sleeves firmly together. Any further rotation of the
sleeve 142 will cause a rotation of the section 130 of the tension shaft and conse-
quently a rotation of the tension wheel attached to said section.
In this construction of the tension operating mechanism the connecting rod 145
is adjustably but pivotally attached to the lever 47 within the slot therein, the
opposite end of said connecting rod being pivotally attached to the sleeve 142
at 146 as shown. It will be seen that the action of the cam groove 50 upon the
lever 47 will cause the intermitting oscillation of the sleeve 142 and by means
of the clutching device will cause the intermitting and mechanical operation of
the tension wheel similar to the mechanism above described.
With the various parts of the machine in the positions shown on the drawings
the operation of the machine is as follows:-
The looper is rotated sufficiently to place the thread within the hook of the
needle; the needle then withdraws through the stock carrying with it the thread
which was placed there by the looper.
During the looping of the thread and withdrawal of the needle the thread is
delivered to the needle automatically and mechanically by the action of the tension
device herein before described and the entire amount of thread so delivered has been
delivered before the needle reaches its extreme backward position. As soon as
the desired amount of thread has been delivered mechanically, the lever 57 is
operated and withdraws the pawl 45 from engagement with the ratchet wheel,
by which means the tension is applied to the thread and the stitch is set by the
remaining slight backward movement of the needle. When the needle reaches
its extreme backward position the back gauge is unlocked and slightly withdrawn
from contact with the stock the feed point which has previously been moved
laterally through the channel and backward into the stock, and the channel guide
which rests within the channel in the stock, then move laterally and feed the
stock the desired distance between the stitches. As soon as the stock has been
fed the back gauge moves forward and presses against the stock and is locked in
such a position. During this lateral movement of the feed point and channel
guide to feed the stock, the needle moves slightly forward to compensate for the
angular lead of the thread caused by the feeding of the stock, thus preventing
straining of the thread, cutting, straining or moving of the stock. The needle
now continues its forward movement, enters the stock and as it does so the feed
point withdraws; the needle continues its forward movement, as the feed
point withdraws, until the point of the needle is through the stock, it then pauses
and holds the stock steady. The channel guide withdraws from stock and with

page_text: the feed point moves laterally a distance equal to the amount of the feeding of
the stock, then moves into the channel and stock ready to feed the stock for the
next stitch. The needle then moves forward the remainder of its forward move-
ment and to the position shown on the drawings. During the feeding of the stock
by the channel guide and feed point, the return of the channel guide and feed
point to position for the next stitch, and the latter part of the forward movement
of the needle, the looper returns to the position shown on the drawings.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent I declare that what I claim is:-
1st. In a hook-needle chain-stitch sewing machine, a tension wheel having
a yielding constant pressure thereon to produce tension on the thread carried
thereby, combined with an intermittingly operated mechanism directly engaging
the tension wheel and operating it intermittingly and positively in one direction
only to deliver thread therefrom in a position and predetermined amount for the
formation of the stitch, and means whereby said tension wheel is free at all times
to be operated independent of the intermittingly operated mechanism to deliver
thread, for the purpose set forth.
2nd. In a hook-needle chain-stitch sewing machine, a tension wheel having al
yielding constant pressure thereon to produce tension on the thread carried
thereby, combined with an intermittingly operated mechanism directly engaging
the tension wheel and operating it intermittingly and positively in one direction
only to deliver thread therefrom in a positive and predetermined amount for the
formation of the stitch, adjusting mechanism to adjust the amount of thread so
delivered, and means whereby said tension wheel is free at all times to be operated
independent of the intermittingly operated mechanism to deliver thread, for the
purpose set forth.
3rd. In a sewing machine, a hooked needle and operating mechanism, a tension
wheel having a yielding constant pressure thereon to produce tension on the
thread, an intermittingly operating mechanism engaging the tension wheel and
rotating it intermittingly in one direction against the influence of its pressure
to intermittingly deliver thread for the formation of the stitch which will be free
of tension between the tension wheel and between substance, combined with a
release mechanism to release the tension wheel from the intermittingly operated
mechanism, just prior to the setting of the stitch to allow the tension wheel to
hold the thread with a yielding tension during the setting of the stitch and to
supply any shortage of the thread, for the purpose set forth.
4th. In a sewing machine, a frame, a needle and its operating mechanism, a
slide mounted within guides on the frame, a gauge on said slide, a recess in the
frame, a perforated plug adjustable within said recess, a rod attached to said slide
projecting through the perforation in said plug, a spring surrounding said rod
between said plug and slide to force the gauge forward with a yielding pressure,
and a nut adjustable upon said rod outside of said plug to limit the forward
movement of said slide, the combined adjustments of the plug within the recess
and the nut upon the rod forming a forward and backward adjustment of the
gauge in relation to the needle, for the purpose set forth.
5th. In a hook needle sewing machine, a feed point moved laterally to feed
the stock, a looper, and a needle having a slight forward movement in unison with
the feeding of the stock, to give up thread, to compensate for the angular lead
of the thread between the looper and needle while the stock is being fed, thus
preventing straining the thread or cutting, moving or straining the stock, for the
purpose set forth.
6th. In a sewing machine, a needle and its operating mechanism, a feed point
having lateral movements into and out of the plane of the movements of the
needle, and a channel guide arranged in advance of the feed point in the line of

page_text: the feed and having lateral movements in unison with those of the feed point
and across the plane of the movements of the needle, for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 25th day of June 1898.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.