IMPROVEMENTS IN MEASURING AND FITTING APPARATUS OR DEVICES FOR USE IN TAILORING AND DRESSMAKING
Year: 1885

page_text: I, WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake & C° Patent Agents,.
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature
of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MEASURING AND FITTING APPARATUS OR
DEVICES FOR USE IN TAILORING AND DRESSMAKING
and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
"
This invention relates to garment measuring and fitting devices composed of
detachable sections or frames which are first fitted to the person and then laid out
flat upon the fabric from which the pattern or part of the garment is to be cut.
Measuring and fitting devices as heretofore made are open to two disadvantages
which seriously impair their usefulness, First, they take only part of the
measurements required when applied to the person, the positions of the darts, gores
seams and other parts not then provided for, being calculated by the operator
when the device is laid out upon the fabric to be cut; second, the movable strips
composing the devices are held in their adjustable positions by thumb-screws and
nut-fastening mechanism which is liable to be, and frequently becomes, disarranged
during the manipulation incident to fitting the device upon a person, removing it
therefrom, and laying it upon the fabric. Such disarrangement it is obvious varies
the adjustment of the parts of the device and produces a misfit.
The present invention avoids these disadvantages, and has for its objects to
produce a garment measuring and fitting device which will give the measurement
of every seam and dart to be made, and locate the darts and gores to be put in the
garment, and which, when fitted, retains its adjustment during the manipulations
incident to fitting and marking the pattern or fabric to be cut, whereby a perfect
fit is invariably and mechanically made without requiring any skill or calculation
on the part of the operator or fitter.
The said invention accordingly consists of a garment measuring and fitting
device composed of separable front and back sections or a number of flexible and

page_text: separable sections or frames, each of which is made up of strips or straps of thin
metal or other suitable flexible material, parts of which straps are single straps
having openings or perforations adapted to engage with studs located upon other
straps, the remaining straps being composed of two overlapping straps, either or
both of which have a series of openings or perforations. One strap of each pair of
overlapping straps has a stud which is in line with and passes into any one of the
openings of the other strap of the pair. All of the said straps for a section or
frame have a permanent pivotal or swivelled connection one with the other, to
allow the section to be adjusted in any and every desired way or direction, and
they also have sliding or adjustable loops and spring-pins which engage with the
studs and openings of said overlapping straps; and further they have other spring
pins for engagement with the studs, to which the single straps connect, for securely
and positively fastening all of said straps in the positions to which they may be
adjusted, and locking or maintaining them in such adjusted positions during all
the manipulations to which they may be incident when the fitting device is
removed from a person and its sections or frames are taken apart and placed upon
a flat surface for obtaining or marking a pattern therefrom.
The various straps of the frames or sections of the fitting device are straight
or curved, or have a combination of straight and curved lines, to give every seam
in the garment desired:
In the accompanying drawings,
Figure 1, is a front view of a body and sleeve measuring and fitting device
embodying my invention and shown applied to a woman's figure.
Figure 2, is a rear view of same.
Figure 3, is a view of one of the duplicate back sections or frames of the
measuring device, said section being shown flat or in its position to take or mark a
pattern therefrom.
Figure 4, is a like view of the under section for the sleeve frame.
Figure 5, is a like view of the upper section of the sleeve frame.
Figure 6, is a like view of one of the duplicate front sections or frames of the
device.
Figure 7, is a plan of the belt and the spring fastening device therefor to be
used in connection with the fitting device.
Figure 8, is a section drawn to an enlarged scale of the waist and dart straps,
and spring fastening device to be used therefor.
Figure 9, is an elevation of same.
Figure 10, is an elevation drawn to an enlarged scale of overlapping straps
showing a loop stud and fastening spring to hold the straps in their adjusted
positions.
Figure 11, is a vertical section of same.
Figure 12, is a broken elevation of bust and ends of dart straps and fastening
spring and studs.
Figure 13, is a side elevation of the fastening spring shown in Figures 12 and 14
and
Figure 14 is a sectional view of same on line Z Z Figure 12.
The various figures show the construction of my "device" in its' most difficult
form; that for tight fitting dresses or basques for women; the said device being
composed of two duplicate front and two duplicate back sections or frames P P
and R R respectively, each of which is independent of the other and is adapted to
be connected to and disconnected from the other sections. Each section or frame
is made up partly of overlapping, sectional or pairs of straps and partly of single
straps as shown.
One strap of each pair of overlapping straps has openings or perforations, as
indicated, which may be numbered or marked as shown in Figures 10 and 12 or as
desired. One end of the other strap of the pair has a keeper or loop h*, seen more
plainly in Figures 10 and 11, a stud k* provided with a lateral opening k¹¹, and a

page_text: locking spring n*. This spring is fastened at one end to the keeper h* and at its
other end has a bend n to form a pin or catch n¹³ for engagement with opening ku
in stud k*. By these means the said straps can be positively and securely fastened
when adjusted and enabled to maintain such adjustment under any of the
manipulations as hereinafter described to which said sections are subjected, so that
said adjustment cannot be accidentally or otherwise disturbed except by manually
releasing the spring pin n¹³ from studbole k¹¹.
The single straps of the sections or frames have a series of openings, as shown,
for engagement with studs k on other straps. All the single and overlapping
straps of each section are pivotted at their ends one with another preferably by
hollow eyelets 12, so that the straps of a frame are permanently pivotted together,
are susceptible of adjustment in different directions, and, when adjusted, are
securely locked together, and such adjustment is duly maintained until purposely
broken.
The sections are connected together to form the fitting device by means of a
hook, see Figure 1, which passes into an eyelet on one of the straps of the
adjacent section, and by spring catches 11, one end of each of which is fastened to
a strap-stud of a section, the other end having a pin to engage with a strap
stud * upon another or adjacent section or frame; see Figure 2.
The sections or frames constructed as described when connected together form a
fitting device, the sections of which are adjustable longitudinally as well as
laterally, so that the fitting device can be adjusted as hereinafter described for
obtaining different lengths, ie, from neck to bottom of basque and different chest
or body measures, ie around the chest or body.
In adjusting these straps, when the proper adjustment is obtained, one of the
holes in the strap having holes is put over the stud in the stud-strap, and the
spring that is fastened to the loop in the stud strap is put through the stud; the
adjustment is thereby secured until it is desired to use the device on another person.
All the holes in the various straps are numbered, in order that both sides of the
fitting device i, e, the right side and the left side, can be adjusted alike, and in
order that a record of the adjustments for any person can be kept if desired.
Other advantages in having the holes numbered will become apparent further on.
When all the adjustments in the measuring and fitting device are made and
secured by the several fastenings provided for that purpose, it is impossible for the
said device to change in shape, as it will be seen that the plan of connecting and
arranging the straps of each section of the fitting device is to connect or pivot the
straps in series of triangles; or triangular arrangement. For instance, the strap q
in Figure 6, from the side to the front of the neck is one side of a triangle, the
strap v from the side of the neck to the shoulder tip is another side, and the strap y
from the shoulder tip to the front of the neck is the third or last side. The same
arrangement will be found throughout the entire fitting device.
This triangular arrangement of the straps secures firmness and accuracy of
adjustment to the desired degree. Any strap in the fitting device can be changed
independently of the others, and the device as a whole will allow of any possible
adjustment for any human figure within the limits of the several straps.
In the device intended for close fitting garments for women, it is necessary to
have some independent and universal way of adjustment at the darts. This
I accomplish as hereinafter described and as shown most clearly in Figure 12.
The device for measuring and fitting girls and boys clothing will be made in a
similar manner to that described though smaller than those for adults.
For measuring women two devices are needed one for dresses and basques and
another for cloaks. For men one device is required for coats, one for vests, one for
trousers, and one for shirts.
The most difficult garment to make by the methods now in vogue is the tight
fitting dress or basque for a woman, and for this special reason I have in the
drawings shown my devices for that particular work, as the explanation applies
equally well to all the other styles.

page_text: In the operation of my device for women's-tight-fitting clothing, I proceed as
follows.
The belt a Figure 7, is put around the woman's waist at the smallest part and
drawn as tight as she desires her dress to be. While doing this her wishes should be
consulted in all cases, as the dress will be exactly as tight as the belt is made during
this operation. When the desired tightness is determined the belt is removed and
the four waist adjustments on the four waist lines (or straps) at b in Figure 3,
and c in Figure 6, are set to the holes numbered the same as the holes in the
belt that was used to determine the tightness of the waist when it was on the
woman. The waist straps e of the front sections at the darts are now closed by
putting the eyeletted holes d in the waist strap e over the five studs f (see
Figures 8 and 9) in the keeper strap g, as shown in Figure 6, where the waist line
at the darts is open, and in Figure 1, where they are closed. This keeper strap g,
with the five studs f referred to, is pivotted to the waist line at ;, Figure 1 so that
it will turn out of the way in marking the pattern, Figure 6 shows it partly
turned out of the way. After the waist straps e are put on this strap g, the
fastener his put through the studs and locked, see Figures 8 and 9. The two
backs of the device Figure 3, are now put together and fastened at the neck at the
centre of the back and lastly at the waist line. The two fronts Figure 6, are then
fastened together at the neck and at the bust, only leaving the hook fastening j₁;
Figure 1, at the waist line open; the front of the device is now joined to the back
part by the fastenings on the left side, first at the neck, then at the shoulder tip,
then under the arm, and lastly at the waist line at the hips.
The device is now ready to put on the person to be fitted. I leave all the skirt
fastenings at the bottom of the skirt loose until I get ready to adjust the skirt.
It is only necessary to adjust the various parts of the device before putting it on
when it has to be used upon a person larger than that to whom it was previously
applied.
As
To apply the device it is held up and the woman puts her left arm through the
left arm hole and the device is then fastened at the right side of the neck. The
device is next fastened at the right shoulder tip, then under the right arm, then at
the waist at the right hip, and lastly at the waist line in front by the hook
fastening, Figure 1. The belt is then put around her waist at the smallest part
and above the waist line of the device, and is drawn up to the hole indicated at
the several waist lines, or to the same hole that it was formerly drawn up to.
the belt is now outside the device it may be a little too tight for comfort. If so,
it can be loosened a hole or two but the tighter it is the better the device is held
in place while being adjusted; the belt being put on simply for the purpose of
holding the device in its proper place and the tightness or looseness of the belt
.during this use of it having nothing whatever to do with the feeling or fit of the
garment. I now adjust the device by beginning at the up and down straps k that
run from the waist at the right hip to under the arm. After the desired
length or adjustment of these straps the straps on the left side of the device
are adjusted to the same hole as those on the right side. Should it be
found that such an adjustment is not right for the left-side of the woman
this is an indication that the right and left sides of the person are of different
proportions and require adjustments independent of each other.
In all cases
the adjustment of any one strap on one side of the device must be followed
by the adjustment of the corresponding strap on the other side. It will not
do to adjust all the right side of the device first and then adjust the left side,
or vice versa. The adjustment must be made in systematic order. After the under
arm adjustments are secured, I adjust the up and down straps n at the back that
run from the waist line to the centre of the back, then the straps o from the centre
of the back to the back of the neck, and then the straps p from the side of the
neck to the back. Then I adjust the up and down straps that run from the waist
line in front to the bust, then the straps m from the bust to the front of the neck.
The next adjustment is that of the straps q running around the neck. When these

page_text: are all properly adjusted, I adjust the straps running from the centre of the back
to under the arms, then the straps s in front from the bust to under the arm, then
the straps from the back of the neck to under the arms and then the straps
from front of the neck to under the arms. The next adjustments are for the
straps running from the sides of the neck to the shoulder tip then the straps w
from the back shoulder-tip to the centre of the back, then the straps from the
front-shoulder-tip to bust and then the straps y from the front shoulder-tip to the
front of the neck. I then adjust the strap z that runs from the front of the neck
to the bust-line, the stud-strap of which pivotted to the bust line where the bust
line is jointed.
The darts and arm-hole are now to be adjusted. If the adjustments of the right
and left sides of the device have been exactly the same up to this point then it is
only necessary to adjust the darts and arm-hole on one side of the device, as in
cutting the garment only one side of the device need be used. The darts are
adjusted as follows; always beginning with the back dart (the one nearest the arm)
First one of the independent springs A. (shown in Figure 13) is taken, and when
it is decided where the point or upper end of the dart is to come on the bust line
the stud end of the spring is passed through the small hole in the bust line at that
point and the back-strap B of the dart put on the spring, then the front strap C,
and then the dart-brace D that runs from the waist-line at the hip, and then the
spring is clasped. The front dart is adjusted in a similar manner and an additional
brace E that runs from the front-strap C of the back-dart is put on the spring that
holds the front dart adjustment. The arm hole is now adjusted first at the back
and then in front.
The waist-line and all above it is now adjusted except the side seams F in the
back (the side seams G on the waist line having been located before the device was
put on the woman). The side seams F can be adjusted while the device is on the
person or after it is taken off as the operator desires. The skirt is now to be
fastened and adjusted first at the front and then at the back, finishing up at the
sides. The skirt straps b* and braces d* are adjusted last or otherwise as desired.
When all the above mentioned adjustments are made the sleeve Figures 4 and 5
is closed and fastened to the arm hole of the body device at H, Figures 3, 4, 5,
and 6, and adjusted in a manner similar to the device proper. The belt is then
taken off the woman, the device unfastened, and removed. It is then opened out
flat and laid down on the waist lining or paper. Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 show the
device as it will appear when opened out ready for marking the pattern. In order
to procure a pattern perfect in every minute detail and one from which a dress or
other garment can be made to fit perfectly without any of the tedious "trying on
"fitting" bother and trouble, it is only necessary to draw a pencil along the edge
of the proper parts of the device, the line made by the pencil being exactly.
where the seam of the garment must be in order to secure the "perfect fit, hang,
and set" of the garment. In cutting the cloth allowance must be made for the
cloth outside of the seam, say half or three quarters of an inch, as the case might
be. Heretofore the method of cutting garments, or patterns for them, has been to
cut the cloth or pattern and "allow for seam.'
"
Actual observation has shown that when people are told to "allow half an inch
for seam" their allowances have varied from an eighth of an inch to an inch and
sometimes more. This invention obviates this trouble as the "set" of the garment
will not be effected by the allowances for cloth. The device gives every seam line
correctly and no change need be made in any of them in any way.
In marking out the pattern of a sleeve the device is opened out flat and a pencil
drawn along the edge of the proper parts. A mark is made at I Figure 5, to
indicate where the sleeve is to be sewed in the body of the garment, which mark
must come exactly to the shoulder seam in the garment. If desired the sleeve can
be used independently of the body, but if so it is not so easy to define the place at
which the sleeve is to be sewed in the garment.

page_text: Q
The waist strap e of the front frames of the fitting device is made in sections,
for the purpose of closing the latter or making the waist strap continuous when
the fitting device is on the person; and to open said strap when the said frames are
disconnected to permit them to yield and lay flat for marking the pattern.
It will be noted that the contour straps a* on the front frames for the arm-holes
are made up of sections or pieces, one of which a is provided with a series of
studs a¹ for engagement with section a¹ of said strap a*, as shown more plainly
in Figure 6. By shifting the section a¹ to different studs a18, different.shapes of
arm-holes can be obtained for different persons.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent I declare that what I claim is
First. A measuring and fitting device comprising a series of seperable frames or
sections, each composed of separately and independently adjustable flexible straps
pivotted one to the other in triangular form throughout the sections and means
for securing the straps in their adjusted positions, whereby said sections may be
adjusted to fit the figure of the individual under measurement and then laid flat
upon the goods to be cut, substantially as set forth.
Second. A measuring and fitting device comprising a number of frames or
sections separable from each other and composed of separately and independently
adjustable straps, all pivotted one to the other and having openings and studs and
fastening devices therefor, as, and for the purpose, set forth.
Third. A measuring and fitting device comprising a number of frames or sections
separable from each other and composed of overlapping and single straps all
pivotted together and having openings, studs, and fastening catches for said studs,
substantially as, and for the purpose, set forth.
.
Fourth. A garment measuring and fitting device comprising a number of frames
or sections separable from each other, and composed of separately and independently
adjustable single and overlapping straps, one strap of the overlapping straps having
a stud, and the other or its connected strap having one or more openings, in
combination with a fastening device or catch for said stud, substantially as, and for
the purpose, set forth.
Fifth. A garment measuring and fitting device comprising a number of frames
or sections separable from each other and composed of separately and independently
adjustable single and overlapping straps, one strap of the overlapping straps having
a loop or keeper and a stud, and the other or its connected strap having one or
more openings for engagement with said stud, in combination with a fastening-
spring-catch one end of which is secured to the loop the other engaging with the
said stud, substantially as set forth.
Sixth. In a garment measuring and fitting device composed of separable sections,
the combination of flexible waist and bust straps, and the adjustable dart straps B, C,
substantially as set forth.
Seventh. In a measuring and fitting device composed of separable sections, the
combination of bust and waist straps s and e each made in sections, adjustable
dart straps B and C, and brace straps D, E, as, and for the purpose, set forth.
Eighth. In a measuring and fitting device composed of separable sections, the
combination of bust and waist straps s and e each made in sections, the adjustable
dart straps B, C one end of each of which is pivotted to the waist strap and the
other engaging with a fastening device on the bust strap, substantially as, and for
the purpose, set forth.
Ninth. In a measuring and fitting device, the combination of bust straps s
jointed between the darts, and the adjustable dart straps B, C, and the waist strap e
made in sections adapted to be connected together and disconnected, as, and for
the purpose, set forth.

page_text: Tenth. In combination with a measuring and fitting device composed of separable
sections having independently adjustable straps as herein described, of a belt a,
substantially as, and for the purposes, set forth.
Eleventh. In a measuring and fitting device composed of separable sections, the
combination of straps B C, the bust strap 8 jointed between the darts, the brace
straps D and E, and a common fastening device for said straps and braces,
substantially as, and for the purposes, set forth.
Twelfth. In a fitting device, the bust straps s having openings, the dart
straps B, C, and the braces D, E, having openings, in combination with a
fastening spring A, substantially as shown and described.
Thirteenth. In a measuring and fitting device composed of separable sections
made up of pivotted or swivelled straps, the arm hole-strap a* composed of
sections, one of which has a series of studs a16 for engagement with holes in
one of the other sections, as, and for the purpose, set forth.
Fourteenth. In a garment measuring and fitting device formed of straps over-
lapping each other, the combination of studs k* having lateral openings k", the
loop or keeper *, and the spring catch or fastener n* having pin n¹³, substantially
as shown, and for the purpose set forth.
Fifteenth. In a measuring and fitting device the separable sections made up of
adjustable straps swivelled or pivotted together by eyelets p¹, in combination
with the fastening springs A, substantially as, and for the purpose, set forth.
Sixteenth. A measuring and fitting device composed of separable sections or
frames having separately adjustable contour, outline, dart and bracing straps
pivotted one to another in triangular form throughout the sections, substantially
as shown and described.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
For the Applicant.