IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL LACE
Year: 1837

page_text: WHITE
PECIFICATION
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ROBERT
WHITE, of the Town and County. of. the Town of Nottingham, Lace Maker,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Fourteenth day of November, in the first year of Her
reign, and in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and thirty-
seven, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Robert White, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and
authority,. that I, the said Robert White, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, and such others as I, the said Robert White, my executors, adminis-
trators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and, no others, from time
to time and at all times during the term of years therein mentioned, should.
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales,
and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL LACE;" in which said Letters Patent is con-
tained a proviso, obliging me, the said Robert White, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, particularly to describe and ascertain the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
and to cause the same to be inrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of
Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of
the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference
being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Robert White, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following description thereof, reference being
had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked
thereon (that is to say) :-
My improvements in the manufacture of ornamental lace consist in the
application and adaptation to ordinary bobbin net lace machinery of certain
mechanism or apparatus well known in the silk loom, and in the weaving of
fancy silk goods, as the jacguard cylinder or box with its pierced cards or
moving pattern cards or plates, together with suitable mechanism or apparatus
connected therewith for the purpose of acting upon the warp threads of such
machinery, or those threads which extend longitudinally through the piece of
goods or fabric, in contradistinction to the bobbin and carriage threads, or those
which are capable of traversing from selvage to selvage of the lace, such longi-
tudinal or warp threads being wound upon long rollers or warp beams
extending lengthways of the machines, that is to say :-My improvements in
the manufacture of ornamental lace consist in combining the properties of the
jacguard cylinder with its pierced cards, or such other moving pierced pattern
cards or plates with the ordinary bobbin net lace making machinery, together
or in conjunction with suitable mechanism or apparatus for acting upon the
warp threads of such lace machinery, for the purpose of producing different
patterns of ornamental lacework as the machine performs its motions, such
apparatus or mechanism being situated between the jacguard cylinder and its
cards, or such other moving pattern cards or plates. And the warp threads of
the said lace machinery for the purpose of connecting and communicating the
motions and operations of the one to the other, and by intercepting or inter-
rupting or giving suitable motions or movements to the particular warp threads
of such machinery, cause them to be placed in such different situations to their
ordinary places when making plain bobbin net as to produce the said orna-
mental lace, the said interceptions or interruptions, motions or movements, being
given by and obtained from the said jacguard cylinder with its cards or other
moving patterns or plates or other pierced barrels or surfaces, and communicated
by the said intermediate mechanism or apparatus.
And I would here remark, that I am aware that the jacquard cylinder with
its pierced cards. have heretofore been applied to lace machinery, but such
application and adaptation has been effected for the purpose of acting or
operating upon the bobbin and carriage threads, or those which are capable of
traversing across the piece of net or lace from edge to edge thereof, and has

page_text: been effected by picking out or selecting certain of such bobbins and carriages
and withholding them at certain times, or forcing them out of their ordinary
places, so as to produce ornamented lace. For instance, the Specification of
Mr. Samuel Draper's Patent, dated October, One thousand eight hundred and
thirty-five, for his Invention of "Improvements in Producing Plain or Orna-
mental Weavings," describes the application of the jacguard cylinder and cards
to a peculiar construction and arrangement of lace machinery, wherein all the
threads are placed in bobbins and carriages, one set of which, namely, those
which are capable of traversing the piece of lace, are acted upon by the
jacguard cylinder and mechanism.
And further, the Specification of the Patent of Mr. William Crofts, dated
September, One thousand eight hundred and thirty-six, for his Invention of
certain improvements in machinery for making bobbin net lace, describes a
mode of applying and constructing certain levers or pickers or pushers, and
the application of sliding drivers and other mechanism for the purpose of
selecting any of the carriages of bobbin net machinery so as to produce
different patterns of ornamental work; therefore, I do not mean or intend to.
claim as my Invention the mere idea of applying and adapting the jacguard.
mechanism to bobbin net lace machinery generally, and particularly not the
application and adaptation of such mechanism for the purpose of acting or
operating upon the bobbin and carriage threads, or those which are capable of
traversing the width of the piece from selvage to selvage; but what I claim as
my Invention of improvements in the manufacture of ornamental lace is the
application and adaptation of the jacguard cylinder with the moving pierced
pattern cards or plates in conjunction with the suitable mechanism for con-
necting and communicating the motions or operations of the same to the warp
threads, or those which pass from the warp beam or roller longitudinally
throughout the piece of lace, and are not capable of traversing the width of the
same, such intermediate machinery or mechanism selecting and acting upon
certain or particular of the said warp threads for the purpose of placing them
in such situations as will cause ornamental lace to be formed by the machine.
And I make this statement in this part of my Specification in order that the
reader may have a clear idea of the nature and intentions of my Invention
before reading the following description of the mechanism, in order that his
mind may be properly prepared for what is to follow, and not have to read
through the whole of my Specification before he arrives at the statement of
what I claim as my Invention.
And I will now proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed, which
are several representations of bobbin net lace machinery with my improvements

page_text: applied thereto, and will serve to shew the manner of carrying my improve-
ments into effect, although I do not mean or intend to confine myself to the
precise form, arrangement, or construction of the parts of the improved or
additional mechanism, as these may be varied to suit different kinds of
machinery, or the different kinds of work to be produced, or the patterns
formed in the ornamental lace.
And I will first proceed to shew my improvement applied to a bobbin net
lace machine of the circular comb or circular bolt construction. And next, to
such other kinds or classes of lace machines as will serve to further shew and
illustrate the manner or method of application and adaptation of my improve-
ments thereto.
And I would here remark, that as the ordinary and requisite motions, move-
ments, and operation of the various working parts of bobbin net lace machinery
in the production of lace are so well known that it will not be necessary for me
to describe the same; and I shall therefore first point out the several ordinary
parts of the machines, and only refer to those movements or operations of the
same which are affected or altered at the time the jacguard and intermediate
mechanism come into operation, and shall more particularly describe the nature
and operation of this additional mechanism in effecting the objects of my
Invention, and point out the times the same come into operation in conjunction
with the ordinary working parts of the lace machine.
Figure 1 is an elevation of a single locker double tier circular comb or
circular bolt machine, as seen from the back side thereof, with my improve-
ments applied and adapted thereto; part of the mechanism being broken away
to expose the interior. The old or ordinary parts of the machine being shewn
in outline only and marked with capital letters of reference, and the new or
additional mechanism coloured and marked with small italic characters and
figures.
Figure 2 is a vertical section of the same, taken in the line a, b, and seen as
looking towards the right-hand end of Figure 1.
Figure 8 is a partial section or diagram, drawn full size, shewing some of
the interior working parts of the machine with the additional mechanism placed
in the required situations. A, A, is the ordinary framework and standards of
the machine; B, B, the back and front circular combs or bolts placed on their
bars C, C; D, D, are the bobbins and carriages; E, E, the taking-up points
and their bars; F, F, the locker bars and lockers; G, G, the guides and their
bars; H, the warp beam or roller; I, the slea; K, the work bar; L, the
work beam; M, the first rotatory shaft actuated by the crank or handle N,
and giving motion by means of toothed gear through the intermediate wheel O

page_text: to the main cam shaft P, which gives motion by means of bevil gear to the
vertical shaft Q, carrying the "cut of wheels" and other mechanism for
producing the shogging motions of the machine. Upon this shaft is mounted
the grooved cam wheel a, which actuates and brings into operation the
jacguard mechanism by means of a connecting arm 6 and rocking levers c, c,
attached to the rocking shaft d, turning in proper centre pin bearings in the
framework of the machine. Upon the vertical shaft Q is also mounted the cam
or cut wheel e, which gives motion at the required time by means of the arm or
lever to the locker bar g and locker h of the jacquard mechanism; i is the
jacguard cylinder with the cards k, k, passing over it secured by steady pins
or points in the usual manner. The jacquard cylinder is mounted turning on
the ends of its shaft in proper bearings formed in the ends of the rocking
levers c, with suitable mechanism for effecting its turning over or parts of
revolutions at the required time, as herein-after described. The jacquard
pattern cards are presented as they are turned over by the cylinder opposite to
the ends 1, 1, of the sliding rods, which ends are bent or turned on one side so
as to come opposite the pierced holes in the cards. The sliders m, m, carry
the interceptors n, n, the ends of which stand opposite the spaces between the
warp threads; the office of these interceptors is to select the required warp
threads and force them out of their ordinary situations, so that the working
parts of the machine shall make ornamented instead of plain net. The sliding
rods m, m, are placed upon fixed bars o, p, carrying the guides q, r, the latter
of which serve for the interceptors as well as the sliding bars m. The locker h
acts upon projecting pins or studs on the under side of the sliders, and is made
by means its connection with the "cut of wheel" shaft Q to bring back the
sliders and interceptors after they have been operated upon by the cards k,
and have intercepted and dacted upon the warp threads so as to be ready for
the next advancement of the cards and cylinder; t, t, are springs fixed on to
the stationary bar u, their ends taking into notches formed on the top of the
sliders m for the purpose of retaining the sliders and interceptors in the
position in which they are placed by the movements of the jacquard cylinder
and cards. The mechanism for effecting the turning over of the jacquard
cylinder is placed at the right-hand end of the machine; v is a catch lever
having its fulcrum in a pin placed in a bracket extending from the framework
of the machine; this catch is made to take hold of the pins w, w, in the end
of the jacquard cylinder (see the partial sectional Figures 4 and 5, which shew
different positions of the mechanism), by means of the spring a, which is
attached at one end to the catch lever and the other to a stationary rod
extending from the machine; y is a crutch piece, the leg passing through guide

page_text: pieces on the side of the rocking levers, and is supplied with an expanding
spring z for the purpose of returning the crutch piece after it has been de-
pressed on a partial revolution of the cylinder. The operation of the additional
mechanism is as follows:-It is caused to come into action at the proper time
when the particular warp threads are required to be intercepted or interrupted
or the purpose of making ornamental lace by the grooved cam wheel a upon
the shaft Q. Supposing the jacquard cylinder to be forced back with the
rocking lever c, as shewn in the detached partial Figure 5, at the required
time the locker h will have been put in operation by means of its connection
through its shaft with the cam wheel on the shaft Q, and caused to turn upon
its locker bar in the direction of the arrow, and consequently force the sliders m
by means of the pins s back so that their ends / stand in one line, and as the
rocking levers and jacquard cylinder are forced outward by the cam a, the
catch v still keeping hold of the pin w will cause the cylinder to turn in
the direction of the arrow into the position shewn in Figure 5, or rather more
than one-eighth of a revolution, the crutch y and springs x and z giving way to
the motion. As soon as the pin w has passed the centre line of the lever c the
spring z will force up the crutch piece y and cause it by pressing upon the
pin w to complete the quarter revolution of the jacquard cylinder. At this time
the cam a causes the levers c and jacquard cylinder again to advance towards
the frame and present a fresh card opposite the ends of the sliders, and such
of them as are opposite the holes pierced in the card will remain quiescent, but
those which are opposite the plain or blank surface of the cards will be caused
to move inwards towards the warp threads as the cylinder advances, and their
interceptors being situate opposite the spaces between the warp reads will
pass in between them and intercept or interrupt those particular warp threads
required, and by standing in the way of the ordinary racking movements of the
warps will prevent their partaking of the racking motion of the guides; and
thus ornamental lace will be formed instead of plain net. As soon as the
requisite movements of the machine have been gone through to dispose of the
so intercepted warp threads, and they are at liberty to return to their ordinary
position, the jacquard cylinder will have receded from the ends of the sliders,
which will then be forced back by the locker coming into operation, as before
stated, which will bring the interceptors out from between the warp threads
into their former position ready for the next operation of the jacquard cylinder
and cards.
I have not stated in the above description of the operation of this additional
mechanism the operations or movements of the ordinary working parts of the
lace machine in making ornamented lace or net, for the following reasons:-:

page_text: In the first place I do not wish to confuse my Specification with unneces-
sary or lengthened description of parts and operations which do not belong to
the movements or operation of the additional machinery, the object of my
Invention being to obtain, apply, and adapt peculiar mechanism for inter-
cepting or interrupting particular warp threads, or giving them peculiar
interrupted or racking motions, which threads when so operated upon may be
used in different ways; for instance, they may be interrupted or prevented from
partaking of the ordinary shogging motion of the guides, as above stated, or
they may have an extra shogging motion given to them by shogging the
interceptors, the ordinary guides at such time standing still, or they both may
have a shogging motion at one time, and then an alternating shogging motion,
as may be required to produce different kinds of ornamented lace or net or
different patterns thereon, all of which will be suggested by any practical
"setter up" or "twist hand" when he has once had given him the mechanism
and apparatus for the means of so intercepting or interrupting and operating
upon the particular warp threads he wishes to act upon to produce the orna-
mented lace or pattern.
And I would here remark, that if opaque patterns of ornamental work are
to be formed up on the lace, I prefer making the opaque work as the ground
work by the motions of the machine, and the plain lace or opaque work
which surrounds it by means of the interceptors or interruptors, as above
described.
Figures 6 and 7 are side and plan views of one of the sliders detached from
the machine, with its interruptor and bent end.
Figure 8 is a partial sectional Diagram drawn full size of the working parts
of a double locker machine, shewing another modification of the application or
adaptation of the jacquard cylinder and its cards, and the intermediate mechanism
for giving the requisite motion to the interceptors, which in this instance have
the warp threads passed through eyelet holes at their ends and conduct or
carry the thread from one set of stump guides placed above into another set,
which stump guides are capable of having shogging motions given to them,
whereby the so intercepted or interrupted warp threads may be moved into any
required situation for being acted upon by the ordinary working parts of the
machine so as to make ornamental lace in the regular and required movements
of such parts, according to the kind or pattern of ornamental lace to be
manufactured. The same letters of reference are marked upon corresponding
parts as in the former Figures, and therefore it will not be necessary for me to
repeat them. H is the ordinary warp roller or beam. Q is the fancy warp
roller or beam, or that, which carries the warp threads, intended to be, acted

page_text: upon by the interceptors and the stamp guides, for the purpose of intercepting
and moving them into the required situation for making ornamental lace..
F are the double locker bars. R, S, are the two rows or bars of stump guides.
The jacguard cylinder i is mounted and actuated in the manner before described,
and the sliders are in this instance passed through holes in the guides q, g,
and r, and are furnished with springs a acting against the guide bar r and
loop or pin s, for the purpose of bringing the sliders back when released, after
the fancy or ornamented work has been produced. 6 is the stop piece acting
against the loops for the purpose of keeping the warp threads the required
period in the situation they are placed by the sliders or interceptors and stump
guides, and at the proper time they are released by the following mechanism:―
The stop pieces or catches 6 are formed on the end of the lever arm c attached
to the rocking bar d, turning in proper centre pin bearings in the framework
of the machine. e is another lever arm projecting from the bar d and
connected by the link piece f to the lower lever g having its fulcrum at h, its
other end being furnished with an antifriction roller acted upon by the cam i
fixed on the main or other driving shaft. And at the required time for
releasing the sliders or warp threads, the roller falls down the inclined
plane on the cam into the recess 7, and when the sliders have been again
forced forward by the action of the jacquard cylinder, the antifriction roller
will pass up the inclined plane m, and by raising the lever g, and with it the
catch b will again lock and secure the sliders and warp threads in the position
they are placed by the action of the jacquard cylinder.
Figure 9 is another similar section to Figure 8, shewing the additional
mechanism as applied and adapted to a single tier fluted roller machine, and I
have shewn it applied and adapted to this class or description of machines as
it is the quickest working machine now made. The same letters of reference
are marked upon corresponding parts as in the former Figures, and the
workings and motions of the mechanism will be understood from the foregoing
description; therefore it will not be requisite for me to repeat the same, but I
will point out those parts in which there is a variation. T, T, are the fluted
rollers acting upon the carriages of the bobbins. G, G, are the guides which
in this kind of machine extend upwards near to the combs or bolts; and
therefore the interceptors n require to be elongated so as to project above
them, and this causes the necessity of elongating the slea guider in order to
steady the motions of the interceptors. In this Figure, as in Figure 8, one of
the sliders m and interceptors n is shewn at its position of rest, its tail end
being protruded through the card into the jacquard cylinder.
Figure 10 is another similar section of the working parts of a lace machine

page_text: of the Lever's construction with the additional mechanism applied thereto in a
similar manner or modification as that last shewn and described; and as the
same letters of reference are marked upon corresponding parts, as in the last
Figures, no further description will be necessary, and I would only remark, that
as the Lever's machines are commonly constructed with wooden framework, the
mechanism may require to be extended to suit such framework.
And having now shewn these several Diagrams of different kinds of lace
machines with the additional mechanism applied thereto, I shall proceed to
shew my improvements as constructed and arranged in connection with a
rotary pin, cylinder, or organ barrel applied to lace machines, and then refer
to a barrel pierced with the pattern holes for the same purpose, that is, acting
upon the interceptors so as to operate upon the warp threads.
Figure 11 is another sectional Diagram of the ordinary working parts of a
double locker machine, shewing the improved additional mechanism applied
thereto, the same letters of reference being marked upon the old or ordinary
parts of the machine as in the former Figures. a is the pin wheel or cylinder
mounted, turning on bearings in the fixed framework of the machine, and re-
ceives its racking or interrupted rotatory motion at such times as the tails of the
interceptors are lifted off from the barrel by the locker, as herein-after described.
b, b, are the pattern pins which are brought by the rotation of the cylinder,
one after the other, under the tail pieces c of the bent or angle levers or
interceptors d, having their fulcrum at the pin e at the guide bar f; the warp
threads are, as in a former instance, threaded through eyes 9 in the ends of
the interceptors. h, h, are the fixed guides for the interceptors. i is the locker
attached to the bar k. m, m*, are the stump guides, one or the other of which
receives the fancy warp threads by the action of the interceptors. The action
of the mechanism is as follows:-Supposing the locker i to have lifted all the
intercepters or angle lever guides d, the pin wheel will be caused by its ratchet
wheel to make a small portion of its revolution, say the space between one
pin to another; and as the pins are only placed on the cylinder or barrel
according to the pattern to be produced, they will stand or be opposite the
tails of such intercepters as are wished to be operated upon, and consequently
on the locker i again falling all those tails of the intercepters which have
not pins to support them will fall on to the plain surface of the barrel
or cylinder, as that marked d 1, bringing their warp threads between
the outer stamp guides m, whereas those tails which have pins brought
under them by the rotation of the cylinder will be held up, as the one
shewn at d 2 in the Diagram, and their warp threads will consequently
remain in the stump guides m*, and thus the machine will be made to

page_text: act upon the different warp threads, so as to make ornamental lace or net,
any required shogging motion being given to either of the stump guides to
produce different patterns or ornamental lace. From the motions and opera-
tions of the pattern barrel with its pins 6 and ratchet wheel c it will be seen
that the same effect may be produced by the means and application of a
cylinder or barrel pierced with holes, according to the pattern intended to be
produced, the tails c of the intercepters & resting on the surface of the cylinder
or barrel as it passes beneath them; and on any of the holes pierced in the
cylinder coming opposite the tails c they will fall through the same, and
consequently their other ends will be made to act upon the warp threads; and
when the ornamental work has been produced they will be raised by the action
of the locker i in the manner before described. And I would here remark
that the pierced cylinder or piu wheel may be applied and adapted to work or
operate upon the warp threads in the manner herein-before described as regards
the jacquard cylinder, that is, with an advancing and retreating motion, for the
purpose of acting upon the warp threads through the intermediate mechanism,
such pin wheel or pierced cylinder at all times receiving its racking or inter-
rupted rotatory motion during the time it is moved away from the tails or ends
of the sliders, intercepters, or bent levers, without their rubbing on its surface
and being raised by inclined planes. And further, I would remark that the
pierced pattern cards before described may be applied and adapted to the tails
or ends of the additional mechanism called the sliders or intercepters, by
moving them or sliding them upon a flat surface or table pierced with holes,
in a similar manner to the jacquard box or cylinder, such moving or sliding
motion bringing a fresh pattern card opposite the ends of the intercepters at
the required time, which arrangement or modification of the mechanism would
have the same effect upon the warp threads as the jacquard cylinder and its
cards.
Having now described and ascertained the nature of my Invention, and the
manner of carrying the same into effect, I would in conclusion remark that it
will be seen from the foregoing description, and the Drawings referred to
thereby, that the principal novel or peculiar features of these arrangements
and constructions of additional and intermediate mechanism, is applied and
adapted to lace machinery for the purpose of making or manufacturing orna-
mental lace thereby, are, first, the revolving, moving, or travelling "pattern
surfaces," as "card" "plates" or "cylinders," which are kept apart from the
end of the "sliders" or "interceptors" when the change of "cards" or other
pattern surfaces takes place, without any rubbing or sliding or friction
'between these two parts. Also, the intermediate mechanism, as "sliders,"
65

page_text: "bent levers," or "interceptors," or "interrupters," for acting or operating
upon the "warp threads," together with their levers, springs, and guides. And
lastly, the use and application of the "stump guides" for receiving and regu-
lating the motions or movements of the "warp threads," when selected, inter-
rupted, or intercepted by the intermediate mechanism, for the purpose of
making ornamental lace.
In witness whereof, I, the said Robert White, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight.
ROBERT (L.S.) WHITE.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Fourteenth day of May, in the
first year of the reign of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, the said Robert White
came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the
instrument aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified,
in form above written. And also the instrument aforesaid was stamped
according to the tenor of the Statute made in the fifty-fifth year of the reign of
His late Majesty King George the Third.