other Garments.
Year: 1885

page_text: other Garments.
I HULDA KUSENBERG of 47 Museum Street, Oxford Street in the Parish of
Bloomsbury and county of Middlesex, Dresscutter do hereby declare the nature of
the said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF, AND IN APPARATUS
FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS, FOR CUTTING OUT LADIES AND CHILDRENS DRESSES AND
OTHER GARMENTS to be as follows:-
This invention relates to an improved method of drafting patterns for cutting
out ladies and childrens dresses, jackets, mantles and other garments, which
invention is intended as a means of instruction, by which ladies are able in a short
time to acquire a thorough knowledge of cutting and fitting.
The feature of novelty consists in the peculiar form of the drafting apparatus,
which in conjunction with a novel and more complete system of measurement,
insures a more accurate and perfect fit than can be obtained by the methods at
present in use, where one general measurement is made to suit all forms.
The apparatus
is or may be of wood, card board or metal, having two straight
edges at right angles one to the other, the inner edges of which are both convex or
arched as shown by the accompanying drawings. The convexity of the longest
side gradually diminishing as it meets the short side and the arch of this latter
also reduces as it meets the long side, the outer edges of both the straight and
arched parts are marked or divided in inches, half inches, aud quarter inches. At
the short side and 1 inch from the angle formed by the junction of the two sides
of the apparatus is a scale marked 6. 8. 10. 12. 14. 16. 18 (Back neck) these
figures 6 to 18 occupying a space of 2 inches. On the rise of the arched or inner
edge of this same part of the apparatus is another scale commencing 2 inches from
the other end of the short side, this scale is marked 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
16. 17. 18 (Front neck) and occupies a space of 4 inches, these two scales are
employed for the neck measurements. Both sides of the apparatus are marked
alike.
The advantage of this system is simplicity based upon thoroughly sound
principles, as the human form must naturally vary in almost every case, no general
measurement can be accurate: but by the method forming the subject of the
present invention the draftings are made and the patterns cut from measurements

page_text: taken from each individual separately in every detail, which is not the case with
the methods in present use there being certain arbitrary divisions and marks in
these drafting apparatus, which are done away with in my own invention.
As an illustration of the difference between my own method and those above
referred to, take as example the measurement (old system) round the bust 36 inches,
the back would be 5 inches, and the front would be 12 inches. In another
system the back would be 64 inches and the front 11 inches in width. This same
rule is applied as well to children without consideration to the difference which
must occur in many instances with respect to high, low, or square shoulders. By
one system it is by rule and by the other by guess work, neither of which can
give a satisfactory result.
The width of the back of the waist is also found in the same manner as the bust
and back measurements by both these systems, that is to say by one general rule,
wbilst in reality each person differs in waist and back measurement. By my
method the various measurements are as already stated taken directly from each
person in every detail separately: the following description will show these
measurements, which are all taken with an ordinary tape measure as follows:
1. Neck 12 inches.-Measure tightly round the neck.
2. Bust 36 inches.-Measure loosely under the arms round the fullest part of
the bust.
3. Waist 24 inches-Measure tightly round the waist.
4. Back of waist 5 inches.-Measure from the centre of the back to the centre
of under arm.
5. Width from back to bust 13 inches.-Measure from the top of the side seam
close to the arm at the left hand side to the same at the right.
6. Length of side seam 8 inches.-Measure from the point you left off at taking
the previous measure, to the cord at the waist.
7. Length under arm 7 inches.-Measure from close under the arm to the cord
at the waist.
8. Width of back shoulder line direction 12 inches.-Measure the width of the
back 1 inches below the point of the shoulder, from close to the arm at
the left, to the same at the right. Make a mark where the upper part of
the tape measure touches the end of the centre of the back.
9. Height of back shoulder line direction 2 inches.-Measure the height of the
back shoulder line direction from the prominent bone of the neck to the
mark at the centre of hack just made.
| 10. Length of back 15 inches.-Measure the length of the back from the same
bone at the neck to the cord at the waist.
11. Width of front shoulder line direction 13 inches.-Measure from close to the
left arm, to the right arm, the tape passing under the lowest part of the
front of the neck.
12. Height of front shoulder line direction 3 inches.-Measure from where you
left off, taking the previous measurement to 1 inches below the point of
the shoulder at the back.
13. Length of front 13 inches.-Measure from the lowest part of the front of the
neck to the cord at the waist.
14. Height for darts 8 inches.-Measure from the lowest part of the front of
the neck to 14 inches below the fullest part of the bust.
15. Width of front bust 15 inches.-Measure just above the fullest part of the
bust, from close to the right arm, to that of the left.
16. Hip 44 inches-Measure loosely round the hips 8 inches below the cord at
the waist.
17. Sleeves 1st length 21 inches.-Measure straight from the point of the
shoulder to the length required.
2nd length 21 inches.-Measure from close to the back 3 inches below
the point of the shoulder, to the elbow, by bending the arm to the breast,
and from thence to the length required.

page_text: 3rd length 15 inches.-Measure the inside of the arm from the point
just above the bust from where the measurement for the width of the
front of the bust was taken, to the bend of the arm, thence to the length
required.
Width of sleeve 1st width 14 inches.-Measure loosely round the fullest part
of the arm.
2nd width 12 inches.-Measure the bend over the elbow by bonding the
arm to the breast.
3rd width 9 inches.-Measure the largest part of the hands.
18. Skirt length 38 inches-Measure from the waist in front down to the length
required.
Do. back length 40 inches.-Measure from the waist at the back down
to the required length.
Having taken these measurements by the tape measure, the next operation is the
afting for cutting out the material, which is effected as follows: As only half the
ttern is required for cutting out, half the actual width only is necessary for
afting a pattern.
The drafting may be made either upon a black board or on a sheet or sheets of
per, taking paper as an illustration, the following is the manner of employing the
paratus.
1st Ground line.-Draw a line which may be termed the ground line, by running
a pencil on the paper along the longest side of the apparatus, 1 inch from
the edge of the longest side of the sheet of paper, keeping the short side
of the apparatus even with the edge, with the top or shortest side of the.
paper.
2nd 1st Top line.-Turn the apparatus round passing the long straight edge to
the top of the short side of the sheet, keeping the short side of the
apparatus even with the ground line, then draw a straight line the whole
length of the paper.
2nd Top line. Slide the apparatus evenly along the ground line and
draw a line 1 inch below the last,
Neck line. Place the angle of the apparatus at the junction of the 2nd top line,
and the ground line, the back neck measure Fig. 18 touching the first top
line, then draw a line from this angle to the actual neck measure which
is 12.
Waist line. Place the angle of the apparatus at the junction of the ground and
2nd top lines, the long straight edge even with the ground line, make a dot
on the ground line the length of the back which is 15 inches, and draw a
straight line from it across the paper, placing the short straight edge even
with the ground line.
Under arın line. -Draw a second line across the paper the distance of the length
of the side seam which is 8 inches above the waist line.
Back centre line.--Make a dot at the waist line 1 inch from the ground line make
another dot at the neck line inch distant from the ground line, draw a
straight line between these two dots.
Back shoulder line.-Make a dot at the centre line of the back 2 inches distant
from the neck line, which is the height of the back shoulder line direction,
now make a dot straight opposite this, the distance of half the width of
the back shoulder line direction which is 6 inches; draw a straight line
from this dot to the top of the neck line.
Front line. Make a dot at the bust line the distance from the centre line of the
back to half of the back bust measure which is 18 inches with an
additional of an inch, then place the short straight edge of the apparatus
even with the second top line, the long straight edge touching the dot
just made, draw a line from the top line downwards the length of the
paper.

page_text: t neck line. Place the corner of the apparatus at the junction of the front
line and 2nd top line placing the Fig. 18 of the back neck scale so as to
touch the first top line, make a dot at the actual neck measure which is
No 12, turn the apparatus over and place No 12 Front neck measure at
the dot just made, the corner of the scale touching the front line, then
draw a curved line between these points.
t shoulder line. Place the corner of the apparatus at the junction of the
front neck and front lines, the short straight edge even with the front
line, make a X at the distance of half the width of the front shoulder
line direction, now make a dot just above this cross in a direct line at the
distance of the height of the front shoulder line direction which is
3 inches, now measure the length of the back shoulder line, and place
the angle of the scale at the top of the front neck line, the straight edge
passing the dot previously made, and draw a line the length of the back
shoulder line.
bust dot. Place the angle of the apparatus at the junction of the back
centre line, and bust line, make a dot at the half of the Back bust measure
which is 6, add to this of an inch making 6.
t bust dot.-Make a second dot at the bust line, at the distance of half the
front bust measure, which is 7 inches from the Front line.
er arm line. Make a dot at the under arm line just in the centre of the
Back bust dot, and Front bust dot, draw a line from this dot straight
down to the waist line.
tarm hole. Place the corner of the Front neck curve of the apparatus on
the top of the under arm line, so that the long straight edge passes the
top of the front drafting, draw a curved line from the top of the under
arm line to the front bust dot, continue this line to the point of the Front
shoulder line passing the X made above the Front bust dot.
arm hole.-Now turn the apparatus over, with the same corner as before
on the top of the under arm line, draw a curved line from the corner of
the apparatus to the Back bust dot. Push the apparatus a little lower so
curved
that N° 4 (on the scale) touches the Back bust dot, and draw
line to the point of the Back shoulder line.
waist.-Measure the distance of the waist line from the centre of the Back
to the Under arm line which is in this case 83 inches, deduct 5 inches
which is all required for the back waist, the remainder or 2 inches is
cut out. The back waist is to be separated into three parts. The 1st part
is 1 inch wide, and the remaining 4 inches is divided into two equal
parts or 2 inches each. Make a dot at the waistline 1 inch from the
centre line, make a second dot at of an inch distant from the last dot for
the second part, the remaining 2 inches left for cutting out are divided
into two equal parts. Make a dot 2 inches from the last dot, make
another dot inch from the last dot and another dot 2 inches from
this latter.
seam.- -Place the long curved edge of the apparatus between the first dot
at the waist line and the centre of the Back arm hole between the Back
bust dot and the Back shoulder point the outward corner of the apparatus
touching the centre of the Back arm hole, draw a line from thence to the
first dot at the waist line. Push the apparatus to the second dot at
the waist line, keeping the apparatus in the same position on the arm
hole, and draw a line between these two points.
seam. Push the apparatus to the next dot at the waist line and the point
of the apparatus which touched the bust line in making the previous line
must be placed on the Back bust dot, draw a line to the dot at the waist,
then push the apparatus to the next dot at the waist line keeping the same
position at the Back bust dot, and draw a line between these two dots.

page_text: er arm seam.-Push the apparatus to the last dot at the waist line place
No 17 marked on the scale, at the top of the under arm line, and draw a
line from thence to the dot at the waist.
t waist line. Make a dot at the junction of the front line and front neck
line, the distance of the front length which is 13; now draw a straight
line from this dot to the junction of the under arm and waist lines.
ht of darts. Make a dot on the front line 8 inches below the front neck
line, this is the height of the darts, drawing a line across the paper beyond
the darts.
t darts. Measure the length of the front waist line which is 9 inches.
The half of the whole waist measure is 12 inches, 5 of which are
required for the back waist, 6 for the front waist, the remaining
3 inches is to be put into darts in the front slope. Make a dot an
inch from the front line and the waist line for the front slope. Leave
inch for the corset dart, at under arm line, the remaining 24 inches is
to be placed in the two usual front darts, that is to say or inches in
the first, and the remaining or 14 inches in the second dart. Make a
dot 1 inch from the dot made at the front waist line for the first dart,
now leave a space of an, inch, and make another dot, and the space
between these two dots form the first dart; now leave a space of 1 inch
and make a dot for the second dart, and make another dot 1 inches from
the last for the width of the second dart.
t slope. Make a dot inches below the waist line and an inch outside
the Front line place No 6 of the long curved edge of the apparatus in the
centre of the under arm line and the line for the height of the darts,
the short side of the apparatus being on the right hand, draw a line from
thence down to the first dot on the Front waist line, turn over the
apparatus and place N° 8 at the line just made and continue this line
to the dot made inch below the front waist line.
s line.-Make a dot
inch from the first dot made for the first dart (which
is of the width of the dart) make another dot in a straight line above
this, at the height of darts line, in the same manner make dots for the
second dart. Make the dot an inch higher at the height of darts line.
Place N° 9 of the long curved edge of the apparatus at the first dot on
the height of darts line, draw a line to the first dart dot, at the waist line,
turn the apparatus over and place N° 19 at the same edge, to the first dot
on the height of darts line, draw a line to the second dot of the first dart
at the waist line, continue both these lines with the straight edge of the
apparatus to 8 inches below the waist line, complete the lines in the same
manner for the second darts.
hip lines. First make a dot in the centre of the back pieces 8 inches
below the waist line, now on each side of this dot make another, the
space between these dots must be equal to the width of the waist line of
the corresponding back pieces. Place N° 12 marked on the long curved
edge of the apparatus at the junction of the centre of the Back waist line
and No 4 on the same scale at the first dot made below, continue the
centre line of the back to the dot below, turn the apparatus over and
continue the curved Back line in the same manner to the dot below,
corresponding with the first back piece: complete the remaining lines
from the side piece and under arm piece in the same way, to the corre-
sponding dots below.
hip line. Measure the number of inches between the Back hip lines,
which must be double the actual measure of the back waist (which is
5 inches) and should be 11 inches, the remainder of the half of the hip
measure (44 inches) is 11 inches which is put into the front. Place the
angle of the apparatus at the end of the slope line, below the front waist
line, the long edge being across the paper, make a dot 11 inches distant

page_text: from the front slope dot, adding to this 2 inches which have been
removed for the front darts; this amounts together to 13 inches. Make
a dot inch distant from the junction of the under arm line, and the
Front waist line. Place N° 19 on the curved edge of the apparatus at
the top of the under arm line, draw a line down to the dot made at the
waist line. Turn the apparatus over, place N° 10 at the same edge, at
the end of the line just made, the apparatus touching the dot made
previously for the Front hip line, continue the line just made to 8 inches
below the waist line.
es-1st Ground line.-Draw a straight line along the paper; the first length
of sleeve 21 inches.
Top line.-Draw (from the top end of the previous line) a straight line across
the paper the length of the half of the first width of the sleeves 7 inches,
adding 1 inch.
ottom line.-Draw a similar line from the bottom end of the first ground
line 1 inch longer than the top line.
d Ground line. Make a dot 7 inches distant from the first ground line
and the top line, draw a straight line from this dot to the junction of the
1st ground line and the bottom line.
rist line. Make a dot on the 2nd ground line 1 inches above the Bottom
line. Place the corner of the apparatus at the last dot No 4 (the half of
the 3rd width for sleeves) touching the bottom line, draw a straight line
between these two points.
bow line. Draw a straight line from the end of the top line to the same
at the Bottom line. Make a dot at this line 1 inch below the top line.
Make a second dot on this line down below the previous dot at the
distance of the length of the elbow which is 13 inches; 6 inches above
this dot, make another dot. Place the long curved edge of the apparatus
between this last dot and the junction of the wrist line and bottom
line No 17 touching the dot; draw a curved line between these two
points.
Top line. Make a dot 15 inches distant from the junction of the wrist and
second ground line which is the third length of the sleeves. Place N° 5
(marked on the Front neck curve of the apparatus) at the 1 inch dot,
made at the elbow line below the top line, N° 2 marked on the apparatus
touching the top line. Draw a line between these two points. Turn the
apparatus over place the same curve between the end of the last line,
No 2 on the same point, and the dot previously made on the 2nd ground
line. Draw a curved line between these two points.
r sleeve line. Place N° 15 of the long curved edge of the apparatus at the
junction of the elbow and top line, the straight edge towards the top line,
and draw a curved line from this junction, to the junction of the top line
and 2nd ground line.
line. Make a dot at the 2nd ground line 8 inches below the under arm line,
just the length of the upper part of the arm inside, then draw a straight
line from this dot to the dot made for the elbow length, make a dot at
half the width of the bend of the arm which is 6 inches from the junction
of the curved elbow line and Bent line.
e seam.-Place the long curved edge of the apparatus between the junction
of the under arm and second ground line N° 17 touching the first junction,
draw a line between these two points passing the dot previously made at
the Bent line.

page_text: the method or and in Apparatus for Drafting
Patterns for Cutting Out Ladies' and Children's Dresses and
other Garments.
I HULDA KUSENBERG of 47, Museum Street, Oxford Street in the Parish of
Bloomsbury and County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature of the
said invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF AND IN APPARATUS FOR
DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR CUTTING OUT LADIES AND CHILDRENS DRESSES AND
OTHER GARMENTS and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:―
This invention relates to an improved method of drafting patterns for cutting out
ladies and childrens dresses, jackets, mantles and other garments, which invention
is intended as a means of instruction by which ladies are able in a short time to
acquire a thorough knowledge of cutting and fitting.
The feature of novelty consists in the peculiar form of the drafting apparatus
which in conjunction with a novel and more complete system of measurement
insures a more accurate and perfect fit than can be obtained by the methods at
present in use where one general measurement is made to suit all forms.
The apparatus is or may be of wood, card board or metal having two straight
edges at right angles one to the other the inner edges of which are both convex or
arched as shown by the accompanying drawings. The convexity of the longest side
gradually diminishing as it meets the short side and the arch of this latter also
reduces as it meets the long side, the outer edges of both the straight and arched
parts are marked or divided in inches, half inches, and quarter inches. At the short
side and one inch from the angle formed by the junction of the two sides of the
apparatus is a scale marked 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 these figures 6 to 18 occupying
a space of 2 inches. On the rise of the arched or inner edge of this same part of
the apparatus is another scale commencing 2 inches from the other end of the short
side, this scale is marked 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 (Front neck)
and occupies a space of 4 inches, these two scales are employed for the neck
measurements. Both sides of the apparatus are marked alike.
The advantage of this system is simplicit based upon thoroughly sound principles
as the human form must naturally vary in almost every case no general measure-
ment can be accurate; but by the method forming the subject of the present
invention the draftings are made and the patterns cut from measurements taken
from each individual separately in every detail, which is not the case with the
methods in present use there being certain arbitrary divisions and marks in these
drafting apparatus, which are done away with in my own invention.
As an illustration of the difference between my own method and those above
referred to, take as example the measurement (old system) round the bust 36 inches
the back would be 5 inches and the front would be 12 inches. In another
system the back would be 6 inches and the front 11 inches in width. This same
rule is applied as well to children without consideration to the difference which
must occur in many instances with respect to high, low or square shoulders. By
one system it is by rule and by the other by guess work neither of which can give
a satisfactory result.
The width of the back of the waist is also found in the same manner as the bust
ind back measurements by both these systems that is to say by one general rule,

page_text: hilst in reality each person differs in waist and back measurements By my
ethod the various measurements are as already stated, taken directly from each
erson in every detail separately; the following description will show these
easurements, which are all taken with an ordinary tape measure as follows:-
1st Neck 12 inches.-Measure tightly round the neck.
2nd Bust 36 inches.-Measure loosely under the arms round the fullest part of
the bust.
3rd Waist 24 inches.-Measure tightly round the waist.
4th Back of waist 5 inches.-Measure from the centre of the back to the centre
of under arm.
5th Width from back to bust 13 inches.-Measure from the top of the side seam
close under the arm at the left hand side to the same at the right.
6th Length of side seam 8 inches.-Measure from the point you left off at, taking
the previous measure to the cord at the waist.
7th Length under arm 7 inches.-Measure from close under the arm to the cord
at the waist.
8th Width of back shoulder line direction 12 inches.-Measure the width of the
back 1 inches below the point of the shoulder from close to the arm at the
left, to the same at the right. Make a mark where the upper part of
the tape measure touches the centre of the back.
9th Height of back shoulder line direction 2 inches.-Measure the height of the
back shoulder line direction from the prominent bone of the neck, to the
mark at the centre of back just made.
10th Length of back 15 inches. Measure the length of the back from the same
bone at the neck to the cord at the waist.
11th Width of front shoulder line direction 13 inches.-Measure from close to
the left arm to the right arm, the tape passing under the lowest part of
the front of the neck.
12th Height of front shoulder line direction 3 inches.-Measure from where
you left off, taking the previous measurement, to 1 inches below the
point of the shoulder at the back.
13th Length of front 13 inches.-Measure from the lowest part of the front of
the neck to the cord at the waist.
14th Height for darts 8 inches.-Measure from the lowest part of the front of
the neck to 1 inches below the fullest part of the bust.
15. Width of front bust 15 inches.-Measure just above the fullest part of the
bust, from close to the right arm, to that of the left.
16. Hip 44 inches.-Measure loosely round the hips 8 inches below the cord at
the waist.
17. Sleeves 1st length 21 inches.-Measure straight from the point of the
shoulder to the length required.
2nd length 21 inches.-Measure from close to the back 3 inches below
the point of the shoulder to the elbow, by bending the arm to the breast
and from thence to the length required.
3rd length 15 inches.-Measure the inside of the arm from the point
just above the bust from where the measurement for the width of the
front of the bust was taken, to the bend of the arm, thence to the length
required.
Width of sleeve. 1st width 14 inches.-Measure loosely round the fullest
part of the arm.
2nd width 12 inches.-Measure the bend over the elbow by bending
the arm to the breast.
3rd width 9 inches.-Measure the largest part of the hands.
18th Skirt length 38 inches.-Measure from the waist in front down to the
length required.
Do. back length 40 inches.-Measure from the waist at the back down
to the required length.

page_text: Having taken these measurements by the tape measure, the next operation is
the drafting for cutting out the material which is effected as follows: As only half
the pattern is required for cutting out, half the actual width only is necessary for
drafting a pattern.
The drafting may be made either upon a black board or on a sheet or sheets of
paper, taking paper as an illustration, the following is the manner of employing
the drafting apparatus.
1st Ground line.-Draw a line which may be termed the ground line by running
a pencil on the paper along the longest side of the apparatus, one inch
from the edge of the longest side of the sheet of paper, keeping the
short side of the apparatus even with the edge with the top or shortest
side of the paper.
2nd 1st Top line. Turn the apparatus round passing the long straight edge to
the top of the short side of the sheet, keeping the short side of the
apparatus even with the ground line, then draw a straight line the whole
length of the paper.
2nd Top line. Slide the apparatus evenly along the ground line and
draw a line one inch below the last.
Neck line. Place the angle of the apparatus at the junction of the 2nd top line
and the ground line, the back neck measure Fig. 18, touching the first
top line, then draw a line from this angle to the actual neck measure
which is 12.
Waist line. Place the angle of the apparatus at the junction of the ground and
2nd top lines, the long straight edge even with the ground line, make a
dot on the ground line the length of the back which is 15 inches, and
draw a straight line from it across the paper placing the short straight
edge even with ground line.
Under arm line.-Draw a second line across the paper the length of the under
arm measure which is 7 inches above the waist line.
Bust line. Draw a similar line across the paper the distance of the length of
the side seam which is 8 inches above the waist line.
Back centre line.-Make a dot at the waist line one inch from the ground line,
make another dot at the neck line inch distant from the ground line,
draw a straight line between these two dots.
Back shoulder line.-Make a dot at the centre line of the back 2 inches
distant from the neck line which is the height of the back shoulder line
direction now inake a dot straight opposite this the distance of half the
width of the back shoulder line direction which is 6 inches, draw a
straight line from this dot to the top of the neck line.
Front line. Make a dot at the bust line the distance from the centre line of the
back to half the bust measure, which is 18 inches with an additional of
an inch, then place the short straight edge of the apparatus even with
the second top line, the long straight edge touching the dot just made,
draw a line from the top line downwards the length of the paper.
Front neck line.-Place the corner of the apparatus at the junction of the front
line and 2nd top line placing the Fig. 18 of the back neck scale, so as to
touch the first top line, make a dot at the actual neck measure, which is
No 12 turn the apparatus over and place N° 12 front neck measure at
the dot just made, the corner of the scale touching the front line, then
draw a curved line between these points.
Front shoulder line. Place the corner of the apparatus at the junction of the
front neck and front lines the short straight edge even with the front
line, make a X at the distance of half the width of the front shoulder
line direction, now make a dot just above this cross in a direct line at the
distance of the height of the front shoulder line direction, which is
3 inches now measure the length of the back shoulder line and place the

page_text: angle of the scale at the top of the front neck line the straight edge
passing the dot previously made and draw a line the length of the back
shoulder line.
bust dot. Place the angle of the apparatus at the junction of the back
centre line, and bust line, make a dot at the half of the Back bust measure
which is 6, add to this of an inch making 6.
t bust dot. Make a second dot at the bust line at the distance of half the
front bust measure which is 7 inches from the front line.
er arm line. Make a dot at the under arm line just in the centre of the
back bust dot, and front bust dot, draw a line from this dot straight down
to the waist line.
t arm hole.—Place the corner of the front neck curve of the apparatus on
the top of the under arm line so that the long straight edge passes the
top of the front drafting, draw a curved line from the top of the under
arm line to the front bust dot, continue this line to the point of the Front
shoulder line passing the X made above the Front bust dot.
arm hole. Now turn the apparatus over with the same corner as before
on the top of the under arm line, draw a curved line from the corner of
the apparatus to the Back bust dot. Push the apparatus a little lower so
that No 4 (on the scale) touches the Back bust dot, and draw a curved
line to the point of the Back shoulder line.
k waist.-Measure the distance of the waist line from the centre of the Back
to the Under arm line which is in this case 83 inches, deduct 5 inches
which is all required for the back waist the remainder or 34 inches is cut
out. The back waist is to be separated into three parts. The 1st part is
1 inch wide, and the remaining 4 inches is divided into two equal parts
or 2 inches each. Make a dot at the waist line 1 inch from the centre
line, make a second dot at 1 of an inch distant from the last dot for the
second part, the remaining 2 inches left for cutting out are divided into
two equal parts. Make a dot 24 inches from the last dot, make another
dot 1 inch from the last dot and another dot 2 inches from this latter.
x seam. Place the long curved edge of the apparatus between the first dot
at the waist line, and the centre of the Back arm hole, between the Back
bust dot and the Back shoulder point, the outward corner of the apparatus
touching the centre of the Back arm hole, draw a line from thence to the
first dot at the waist line. Push the apparatus to the second dot at the
waist line, keeping the apparatus in the same position on the arm hole,
and draw a line between these two points.
seam. Push the apparatus to the next dot at the waist line and the point
of the apparatus which touched the bust line in making the previous line
must be placed on the Back bust dot, draw a line to the dot at the waist,
then push the apparatus to the next dot at the waist line keeping the
same position at the Back bust dot, and draw a line between these
two dots.
er arm seam.-Push the apparatus to the last dot at the waist line, place
N° 17 marked on the scale, at the top of the under arm line, and draw a
line from thence to the dot at the waist.
at waist line. Make a dot at the junction of the front line and front neck
line, the distance of the front length which is 13; now draw a straight
line from this dot to the junction of the under arm and waist lines.
ght of darts.-Make a dot on the front line 8 inches below the front neck
line, this is the height of the darts, drawing a line across the paper beyond
the darts.
t darts. Measure the length of the front waist line which is 94 inches.
The half of the whole waist measure is 12 inches, 5 of which-are required
for the back waist, 6% for the front waist, the remaining 3 inches is to be

page_text: put into darts and the front slope. Make a dot an inch from the front
line and the waist line for the front slope Leave inch for the corset
dart, at under arm line, the remaining 2 inches is to be placed in the
two usual front darts that is to say or inches in the first, and the
remaining or 1½ inches in the second dart. Make dots 1 inch from
the dot made at the front waist line for the first dart, now leave a space
of 1 inch and make dots for the second dart and make another dot
1 inches from the last for the width of the second dart.
nt slope.-Make a dot 8 inches below the waist line and an inch outside
the Front line; place N° 6 of the long curved edge of the apparatus in the
centre of the under arm line and the line for the height of the darts,
the short side of the apparatus being on the right hand, draw a line from
thence down to the first dot on the Front waist line turn over the
apparatus and place N° 8 at the line just made and continue this line to
the dot made inch below the front waist line.
ts line. Make a dot inch from the first dot made for the first dart (which
is of the width of the dart) make another dot in a straight line above
this, at the height of darts line, in the same manner make dots for the
second dart. Make the dot an inch higher at the height of darts line.
Place No 9 of the long curved edge of the apparatus at the first dot on
the Height of darts line, draw a line to the first dart dot at the waist line,
turn the apparatus over and place N° 19 at the same edge to the first dot
on the height of darts line, draw a line to the second dot of the first dart
at the waist line, continue both these lines straight down with the straight
edge of the apparatus to 8 inches below the waist line, complete the lines
in the same manner for the second darts.
hip lines. First make a dot in the centre of the back pieces 8 inches below
the waist line, now on each side of this dot make another, the space
between these dots must be equal to the width of the waist line of the
corresponding back pieces. Place No 12 marked on the long curved edge
of the apparatus at the junction of the centre of the Back waist line and
N° 4 on the same scale at the first dot made below, continue the centre
line of the back to the dot below, turn the apparatus over and continue
the curved Back line in the same manner to the dot below, corresponding
with the first back piece: complete the remaining lines from the side piece
and under arm piece in the same way, to the corresponding dots below.
t hip line. Measure the number of inches between the Back hip line, which
must be double the actual measure of the back waist (which is 5 inches)
and should be 11 inches, the remainder of the half of the hip measure
(44 inches) is 11 inches which is put into the front. Place the angle of
the apparatus at the end of the slope line, below the front waist line, the
long edge being across the paper, make a dot 11 inches distant from the
front slope dot, adding to this 24 inches which have been removed for
the front darts; this amounts together to 13 inches. Make a dot inch
distant from the junction of the under arm line, and the Front waist line.
Place No 19 on the curved edge of the apparatus at the top of the under,
arm line, draw a line down to the dot made at the waist line. Turn the
apparatus over, place N° 10 at the same edge, at the end of the line just
made, the apparatus touching the dot made previously for the Front hip
line, continue the line just made to 8 inches below the waist line.
es.-1st Ground line.-Draw a straight line along the paper; the first
length of sleeve 21 inches.
op line. Draw (from the top end of the previous line) a straight line across
the paper the length of the half of the first width of the sleeves 7 inches,
adding 1 inch.
ottom line.-Draw a similar line from the bottom end of the first ground
line 1 inch longer than the top line,

page_text: Ground line. Make a dot 11 inches distant from the first ground line
on the top line, draw a straight line from this dot to the junction of the
1st ground line and the bottom line.
rist line. Make a dot on the 2nd ground line 14 inches above the Bottom
line. Place the corner of the apparatus at the last dot N° 4 (the half of
the 3rd width for sleeves) touching the bottom line, draw a straight line
between these two points.
bow line. Draw a straight line from the end of the top line to the same at
the Bottom line.
Make a dot at this line 1 inch below the top line. Make a second dot
on this line down below the previous dot at the distance of the length of
the elbow which is 13 inches; 6 inches above this dot, make another dot,
Place the long curved edge of the apparatus between this last dot and the
junction of the wrist line and bottom line N° 17 touching the dot draw
a curved line between these two points.
op line. Make a dot 15 inches distant from the junction of the wrist and
second ground line which is the third length of the sleeves. Place N° 5
(marked on the Front neck curve of the apparatus) at the 1 inch dot;
made at the elbow line below the top line, No 2 marked on the apparatus
touching the top line. Draw a line between these two points. Turn the
apparatus over place the same curve between the end of the last line N° 2
on the same point, and the dot previously made on the 2nd ground line,
draw a curved line between these two points.
sleeve line. Place N° 15 of the long curved edge of the apparatus at the
junction of the elbow and top line the straight edge towards the top line
and draw a curved line from this junction to the junction of the top line
and second ground line, make a dot at the second ground line 8 inches
below the under arm line just the length of the upper part of the arm
inside.
ine. Draw a straight line from the last dot to the dot made for the elbow
length, make a dot at half the width of the bend of the arm which is six
inches from the junction of the curved elbow line and bent line on bent
line.
seam line. Place the long curved edge of the apparatus between the
junction of the under arm and 2nd ground line and the junction of the
wrist line No 17 touching the first junction, draw a line between these
two points passing the dot previously made at the bent line."
of the accompanying drawings represents the drafting apparatus herein
to Figs 2 and 3 being draftings made therewith of the body and sleeve.
g now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
nproved method of drafting patterns in conjunction with the apparatus
substantially as herein described and illustrated by the accompanying
A. C. HENDERSON,
46, Southampton Buildings,
Agent for Hulda Kusenberg.