CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CARPETS
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
FAWCETT, of Kidderminster, in the County of Worcester, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at Westminster,
the Second day of February, in the sixteenth year of Her reign, did give and
grant unto me, the said William Fawcett, my exors, admors, and. assigns,
Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the
said William Fawcett, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, and such others as
I, the said William Fawcett, my exors, admors, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term of years therein mentioned, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within that part of the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland called England, my Invention of "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CARPETS;" in which said Letters Patent
there is contained a proviso that I, the said William Fawcett, shall particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under my hand
and seal, to be enrolled in Her said Majesty's Court of Chancery in England
within six calendar months next and inmediately after the date of the said
in part recited Letters Patent, as, reference being thereunto had, will more
fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Fawcett, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following Instrument in writing, reference being

page_text: had to the figures and letters therein contained, and to the Drawings hereunto
annexed (that is to say) :-
My Invention, which has reference to the manufacture of carpets, and may
be stated to relate only to improvements in the ordinary cut and looped velvet
pile fabrics, has for its object the saving or dispensing with half the number of
woollen or worsted threads used in the back of the said carpets, the production
of much more elaborate and beautiful patterns and designs, and addition and
variety of colors, and the reduction of the said fabrics to a cost little more
than half that of the present manufacture.
In describing the object of my said Invention, and the manner of carrying
out the same, I have found it convenient to classify the leading features of my
Invention under three distinct heads or sections; namely,-
The production of cut or velvet pile fabrics, -as herein-after set forth-and
described under the first head.
Secondly, the manufacture of looped pile fabrics. And,
Thirdly, improvements in the mode or modes of weaving the said fabrics in
connexion with the Jacquard loom.
Before proceeding more definitely to describe the several peculiarities of the
first head of my Invention, I would remark, that in the present ordinary
method by which Brussels carpets are usually woven it has been the practice
-with all weavers employing or making use of a five-frame loom, to make use
of or employ in each longitudinal division of the reed or slay five double
threads of worsted or woollen warp threads, one on the top or surface, and the
-remaining four on the back, making in all ten single threads or five double
-ones. In carrying on my improvements I substitute a single thread for the
-double one before mentioned, the said single thread not to be from its increased
size equal in quantity to the double one (which has, I believe, been before
attempted), but of the same thickness and dimensions as at present, thus
making use of but five threads in each division of the reed instead of ten as
'aforesaid, and effecting a saving in each division of four threads, which,
multiplied by two hundred and sixty, the number of bobbins used in each
frame, will amount to one thousand-and forty single threads of worsted in the
back saved. In order to produce the requisite strength and thickness of pile
upon the surface or face of the fabric, and make up for the loss sustained by
the substitution of single woollen or worsted warp threads in place of double
ones as aforesaid, I drive in or cause to be woven in, during the process of
weaving the loop or pile, twice the number of wires to the said half number of
threads (being the reverse of what is in practice under the old system); that is
to say, I substitute in place of two threads and one wire as at present one

page_text: thread and two wires, and cause the said wires to be laid under the same lash
or worsted, and bound as one wire only, both wires being forced into the
space of one by cutting out the second wire from the reed or slay, as herein-
after described. By this means the same or equal quality or quantity is
preserved or obtained on the surface, as heretofore, whilst the linen warp or
dead threads which compose or make up the. back receives the woollen or
worsted warp, but singly, through it.
Before proceeding to describe the third head of my Invention in respect to
the process of weaving according to my said improvements, I would briefly
note the alterations requisite in the ordinary five-frame loom.
I wind upon
each bobbin a single woollen or worsted thread, of a size not less than
Number 12, in the place of a double as formerly. The binding warp or
ground chain contains but one thread in a reed instead of two. The ground
chain I prefer to work with a weight instead of a ratchet and pall or scotcher;.
which latter, however, I employ to put in action the dandy or stuffing chain,
the present method in reference to this portion being thus reversed. This
stuffing warp last mentioned consists of two threads in a reed, or a double
dandy, every other thread of which works in a linen shaft. The other or
alternate thread works in the pole or worsted shaft, as usual, in a single
dandy. In the alterations in the working parts of the Jacquard loom which
are rendered necessary to give full effect to my present improvements, I have
found it advisable to employ three treadles only in place of four, retaining,
however, the same number of shafts as usual. In other respects little or no
alteration in the minor details, such as the position and arrangement of the several
lambs and tumblers, are necessary. Each shaft, as at present, is made to act
successively upon the various woollen or worsted warp and linen threads, so as,
in conjunction with the weft thrown from the shuttle, to bind, tie, or unite the
said worsted or woollen and linen warp threads together as necessary for the
production of the said carpet. I place one of the three shafts in connexion with
the ground or binding chain, causing it to act simultaneously with one of the
treadles, as before mentioned. I also set up the second shaft in connexion
with every other thread of the dandy or stuffing chain warp, while the third
shaft or treadle takes up the usual pole or worsted warp. The treadle for the
right foot acting simultaneously, as aforesaid, with the dandy shaft and binding
chain, brings up the same at the same moment that it lowers the worsted.
The second or middle treadle is also instrumental in working the binding
chain, while the motion given to it raises the dandy shaft, together with the
worsted. The left or third treadle is made to take up or move in conjunction
with the binding chain, and to lower the dandy shaft with the worsted, as

page_text: described. In short, the middle and left treadles are (so to speak) regular
first and second for the single binding chain, whilst the right or first treadle
brings up both linen shafts at once. It may
here be observed that the alter-
nate threads of the dandy which work in the pole or worsted shaft are merely
to add to the texture and to facilitate the forcing in of the wires. The same
bullets may be employed as usual, that is to say, of the weight of two and a
half ounces, provided the threads be of the proper or usual strength. The
wires also I employ are Number 16 guage, top and bottom, and not less than
six or more than twelve to the set, the latter number being the best, as it
prevents the worsted threads drawing out. The knife or cutter should have
the blades so as to cut out such two wires at once, or one blade for cutting out
separately the one next the weaver and that furthest but one from him, or the
second wire from the slay or reed.
The operations of the weaver in the practical working of the loom are as
follows, observing, as I use four shutes or wefts to a double wire instead of
three to a single one, as in the present mode, only one shuttle is required:-As
soon as the piece has been commenced in the usual manner, and the lash or
worsted drawn up to form the pattern and cleared as usual, I cause the first
wire to be put in or under the lash or threads of worsted or woollen so drawn
up, and which are retained in the position by means of the sword standing on
and between the threads of worsted called the lash and those left down to form
the back. As soon as the wire is inserted the sword is thrown down and put
back, but still between the said threads of worsted. The right or first treadle
is then trod, bringing up both the said stuffing and binding chains. A shute
or weft is then thereon (the shuttle to start from the right side, and the weft
thus thereon must be kept off the said wire about a quarter of an inch, yet so
as to hold the wire in its place. The sword is then turned up again, and the
second wire put under the same threads as the first. The left or third treadle
is then trod, and a shute or weft thrown in; then the second or middle treadle
is trod, and then the left or third again, making up the four shutes or wefts,
and completing the stitch or tie, and binding the two wires as one in or with
the
While putting in motion the middle treadle the next lash is drawn
and cleared, and the two wires cut out as before mentioned; that is to say,
the wire next but one to the slay, or furthest but one from the weaver, and the
wire nearest to him, and so on, continuing to proceed in the same manner till
the carpet is finished. Owing to the cutting out of the wire next but one to
to the slay there is a space left which the next wire, that is to say, the one
Dearest to the slay, closes up during the working of the next lash.
warp.
Secondly, my Invention, having further reference to the manufacture of

page_text: carpets, may be stated to relate exclusively to improvements in the ordinary
looped pile fabrics, the distinguishing feature of which differs only from the
foregoing description, given under the first head of this my said Invention, in
the mode or modes of forming the said loop or pile by the introduction of an
additional number of wires of convenient form and size suitable for the pro-
duction of the said carpet; that is to say, the wires which in practice I have
found most suitable for weaving the loop in looped fabrics as aforesaid should
be less in size than, and of different form to, those made use of in the cut pile
fabrics, in other words, fine enough for a number of them always to remain in
together, so as better to enable the weaver to pull them out or withdraw them
from the said fabric when required in the usual manner, as the second from
the reed or slay cannot otherwise be pulled out during the process of weaving
so conveniently as it is cut out in the process described under the first head.
In accordance with the foregoing description of my said Invention, and with
reference to the necessary alterations or modifications of the Jacquard loom,
I have annexed the accompanying Sheet of Drawings for the better explana-
tion of the working parts referred to under the third head of my Invention.
But in order that the same may be fully understood and set forth, reference
must be had to the various letters and figures therein marked, the said letters
representing in each Figure the same corresponding parts.
Figure 1 represents a longitudinal or side elevation of an ordinary Jacquard
loom, many parts in detail being omitted as unimportant in the present explana-
tion, from having no bearing on the subject of my Invention. Figure 2, a trans-
verse or vertical front view. Figure 3, a top or plan view of the woven fabric.
Figure 4 a view of the knife or cutter-out of the wires. Figure 5 an enlarged
detached view of one of the wires aforesaid. Figure 6, the same in section.
Figure 7, sectional portion of the carpet or fabric taken through the wires;
and Figure 8, a plan shewing the manner in which the wires are taken or cut
out. A, A, is the framing. B, B, the Jacquard apparatus. C, C, the har-
ness. D, D, the comber board, through which the different threads of the
harness pass. E, E, the lingoes or weights suspended from the bottom of
the harness to keep the same in proper working order. F, F, the pole or
worsted forming the texture or body of the carpet. G, G, the sword used for
separating the wollen or worsted pile. H, H, the woven fabric or carpet.
I, I, the lathe, the upper end of which oscillates from the horizontal beam I'.
K, K, the reed or slay as aforesaid. L, L, breast beam against which the
workman leans during the process of weaving the carpet. M, M, the sitting
bench for weaver. N, N, carpet roll or shaft, for receiving the fabric as it is
given off from the loom. O, O, ratchet wheel and pool or scatelier, keyed

page_text: firmly on the carpet roll or shaft at one end, for the purpose of enabling the
workman to take up or tighten the manufactured fabric as required. P, P,
standard bearings for same. Q, Q, Q, treadles working on end bearings Q¹.
R, R, lambs or horizontal levers moving in connection with the treadles, and
at right angles with them. S, S, S, shafts. T, T, the tumblers moving in
gear with the linen shafts, lambs, and treadles. U, U, lash lever. V, V, the
single woollen or worsted. warp threads. W, W, ground or binding chain
kept in tension by means of a weighted lever acting upon the same at the
outer end. X, X, dandy or shiffing chair, worked as aforesaid with a scotcher
or ratchett and poll Y, Y, to exert the required tension on the said chain.
a, a, bobbin chains, varying in number from 7 to 9, according to the pattern
required, such number being preferred to the employment of 5 as at present.
b, b, are the bobbins or reels containing the single threads of woollen or worsted
wound upon them as aforesaid. c, c, bullets. d, d, the wires, (enlarged views
of which are shewn at Figures 5, 6, 7, and 8,) shewing the form and position
of the groove, and the manner in which the two wires e, e, are cut out. I
would here observe, the process of weaving may be carried on according to
the old system, that is to say, the single stuffing warp or dandy, and double
chain or binding warp, combined with the four-treadle tie, may be made use
of, provided the peculiar features and improvements which form the basis of
my Invention be retained. In working in the manner above mentioned, the
following are the operations of the weaver:-After drawing the lash and
clearing as usual, the first wire is inserted, the first or right treadle trod, and
a shute thrown, the shuttle starting from the right, and the weft thread kept
off the wire as herein-before described. The threads of the warp being again
turned up and separated by the sword, the second wire is inserted and bound
with the same first or right treadle, then with the second, and then with the
other first or fourth, completing the four shutes; while the second treadle is
being shod, the next lash is drawn and cleared as usual. The other operations
are similar to the first mentioned. I prefer the use of the-first described
(though perhaps the working may be somewhat more difficult), the pile or
worsted being more clear and distinct than the usual four-treadle loom lastly
described.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, I would have it understood that I do not confine
myself to the precise details herein-before mentioned (so long as the peculiar
character thereof be retained, as the same may be varied without departing
from the object and advantages to be derived from my said improvements),
but that I claim as new and of my said Invention,-

page_text: Firstly, the employment of the single thread, or half the double thread of
worsted or woollen as aforesaid, in combination with the double wire.
Secondly, the binding of the two successive loops of worsted or woollen in
one stitch in combination with the single thread as aforesaid.. And,
Thirdly, the cutting out the wire next but one to the slay, in conjunction
with the usual one next the weaver, and forcing the two wires in the space
of one.
Note. In further explanation I would state, that I do not claim the single
threads as single, such having been before used, although much coarser and
larger than that by me employed, the double thread being originally an
improvement on the single coarse thread, two fine threads being found to
spread on the surface much better than a coarse single thread of equal weight;
I therefore claim only a fine single thread, or half the double thread, in com-
bination with the double wire.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Fawcett, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.
WILLIAM (L.S.) FAWCETT.
Enrolled the Thirty-first day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.