IMPROVEMENTS. IN KNITTING MACHINES, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HOSIERY
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake,
& Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS. IN KNITTING MACHINES, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR THE
MANUFACTURE OF HOSIERY." A communication from abroad by Jean
François Gommeret, of Troyes, France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 21st July 1880.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING MACHINES,
CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HOSIERY." [A communication from
abroad by Jean François Gomineret, of Troyes, France.],
This Invention relates to improvements in knitting machines, chiefly designed for
the manufacture of hosiery, and has for its object the production of stockings,
socks, sporting jackets, trousers, caps, head-dress, under-clothing, and other similar
articles, properly proportioned with the requisite diminution or narrowing, and
without scams. By this Invention I am enabled to make more especially upon my
improved machine a stocking with a flat web, the foot and the leg of.a sock with
a ribbed edge or border, a ribbed stocking with a plain foot properly proportioned,
and similar articles.
The manufacture of these articles is effected entirely automatically and
mechanically, as well as the diminution and passage from a ribbed to a plain or
flat web.
My improved machine, which is rectilinear and has two cast grooved or channelled
plates or needle beds, has in each of the latter two rows of needles; in one row the
needles are curved and extend upwards to work face to face, and in the second row
the needles are nearly horizontal and arranged between the curved needles. I employ
four rows or sets of needles in the manufacture of a ribbed web, the curved needles
being only employed for the production of a flat or plain web. A special
arrangement of the mechanism, which will be hereinafter described, permits a
ribbed web to be followed by a plain web, or vice versa..

page_text: Each of the grooved needle beds is capable of being moved in the direction of its
length by suitable rack mechanism to the extent of the distance between one or
two needles at the moment it is desired that the diminution or narrowing should
take place, and for this operation the displacing movement of the said grooved bed
plates is combined with the action of nipping devices or pinchers which take the
stitches from the needles which should be no longer charged. The movements of
the racks and of the pinchers are moreover controlled by a regulator or regulating
device of suitable construction to produce at the proper time the effects desired.
Moreover this machine presents in its combination certain peculiarities of
construction, especially as concerns the arrangement of the needle-carrying plates,
the carrier and its controlling devices, and the yarn guides (one for each channelled
plate), which at each end of their travel have a slight forward and at the same
time a slight rotary movement imparted to them, to pass from one channelled plate
to the other and place the yarn in the needles at the ends of the web.
I will now proceed to describe the general combination and action of the parts of
my improved machine, which is constructed as follows, that is to say:-The various
parts of the said machine are supported upon a suitable base or stand so that it
may be placed upon a table, a stand, or the like. The machine may be arranged to
work with self-acting needles or with knitting frame needles. I will however
describe its action when supplied with self-acting needles.
I employ two curved and grooved bed plates formed of bronze or other suitable
metal, each of which has a dovetailed foot or base to slide upon the stand or frame
when necessary to effect the diminution or narrowing. In the interior of the said
grooved needle bed are arranged curved plates or pieces to which the curved needles
are secured. Each of the said pieces is provided with two heels, butts, or projections,
one of which serves to return the needle, as more fully hereinafter described; the
other projection enters and its movement is controlled by the cam slot in a piece
supported upon an axis or shaft. This piece is drawn along by a carrier when the
latter is moved in the direction of the length of the needle bed; as the said piece
passes under the curved needles it causes them to re-ascend to take up or charge
themselves with yarn, then causes them to descend, having taken up the yarn, and
then engage the latter with the web already formed. By reason of the curved form
of the aforesaid grooved bed plates the two rows of curved needles present
themselves parallel to each other in rising in such a manner as not to come in
contact with each, but with sufficient space between them to permit the passage of
the web.
To reserve between the two grooved bed plates a space suitable for the said web
to pass freely I arrange at the extremity of each grooved plate, and at the part
of each of the said plates adjacent to the diminishing pincher an intermediato
needle. This needle divides into two equal parts the aforesaid interval or space
between the grooved plates, that is to say, the distance between the said needle
and the adjacent needles in each of the said grooved plates is the same as the
distance between any two of the needles throughout the length of the said plates,
so that the meshes or stitches of the web are of exactly the same size throughout
the circumference of the work. These two intermediate needles are provided with
a curved plate in a similar manner to the needles travelling in the grooved bed
plates and operate in the same manner; the hook however of each of these
intermediate needles extends outwardly in such a manner as to be parallel to the
grooved plates and takes hold of the thread laterally.
The machine is composed of two separate parts, each of which operates
independently of the other; the needles of each grooved plate form one of the sides
of the fabric, and at each end of the series of needles in the said plates the last
needle of the series connects one side of the fabric by a stitch to the opposite side
through the medium of one of the aforesaid intermediate needles, and thereby forms
a circular fabric or web.
In the interior of each of the grooved plates are arranged guides, between which
slide approximately horizontal plates to which are connected the series of straight

page_text: needles which cross the curved needles. Each of the said plates of the straight
needles is provided with a heel, butt, or projection, which is combined with a cam
piece. This cam-piece is fitted upon the same axis or shaft as the cam which
controls the curved plates carrying the curved needles, and is drawn along by the
carrier, herein before referred to, in such a manner as to successively advance the
needles to charge themselves with thread, take hold of the same, and return. The
cam piece for operating the curved needles remains always at the same height to
operate upon the projections or butts of the curved needle carrying plates, but the
cain piece for operating the straight needles is so arranged as to swing into such a
position that it will be disengaged from the heels or projections of the straight
needle carrying plates to permit the said needles to be thrown out of action when
it is desired that the curved needles alone should operate. For instance, to make
a ribbed web the four series or rows of needles are employed, but when it is desired
to form a flat or even web the two series of straight needles are drawn back out of
action so that the curved needles alone operate.
To permit the cam piece for controlling the motion of the straight horizontal
needles to be readily depressed when desired to engage with the said needles I
arrange a bar between the top of the said piece and a piece drawn along by the
aforesaid carrier. If this bar is pulled the said cam piece is caused to rock and be
withdrawn from engagement with the projections or butts of the straight
needle-carrying plates. The displacement of this bar may be effected by hand or
automatically by the machine regulator.
The distribution of the yarn to the needles of each channelled plate is effected
by means of a yarn guide conductor operated in the following manner, that is to
say-The said conductor consists of a kind of box guided by a slide and provided
with a plate capable of sliding in a direction transversely to the longitudinal axis
of the machine. The socket of this yarn guide forms part of the steel plate fitted
by a tonon or tongue in the aforesaid sliding plate. The said box is also provided
with a striking più or tappet inside of the same; this tappet is employed to effect
the curvature of the flexible extremity of the thread guide when the latter advances
in its box.
A spiral or other suitable spring tends constantly to draw back the yarn guide;
this yarn guide is only advanced and curved or bent when it reaches the end of its
travel, so that it first passes the yarn into the hook of the needle at the end of and
between the two longitudinal rows of needles, and then on turning around the said
needle passes the said yarn into the needle of the opposite grooved plate, thereby
forming the edge or end stitches.
The various movements of the yarn guide conductor are effected in the following
manner, that is to say:-The aforesaid carrier is provided on its interior with a
slide whose head is U-shaped, and is designed at its upper part to fit in or act
upon an extension or projection of the yarn guide conductor in such a manner that
the latter is drawn along the length of its travel in front of the needles to supply
the yarn.
When the carrier arrives at the end of its travel an inclined plane forming part
of the grooved needle bed plate causes the slide attached to the same to rise; its
upper end then becomes disengaged from the extension or projection of the yarn
guide conductor, and the latter is no longer drawn along; moreover the latter
comes in contact with a suitable stop on the grooved bed. As the carrier continues
its course an inclined plane causes the aforesaid transversely sliding plate in the
yarn guide conductor box to advance, and also the socket of the yarn guide, which
becoming bent passes the yarn into one of the intermediary needles, and then into
the end needle of the adjacent row of curved needles in such a manner as to form
a continuous web. The yarn-guide is then returned by the action of its spring,
and the conductor assumes a retrograde movement, and commences to travel in the
opposite direction. The inclined plane last herein referred to forms part of an
excentric piece capable of movement around a pin in such a manner that it swings
or rocks in the retrograde movement or travel, so that the conductor is not drawn

page_text: along by this excentric, but remains in place until it is engaged by the projection
of the U-shaped headed slide herein before referred to.
The said carrier is provided with a trunnion or stud, upon which a connecting
rod acts through the medium of a crank. This connecting rod is operated by a
crank-disc fixed upon a shaft. This crank-disc is not however fixed upon the said
shaft, but has movement imparted to it in the following manner, that is to say:-
A toothed pinion fixed upon the driving shaft gears with a toothed wheel on the
shaft carrying the said crank disc. This toothed wheel is hollowed out internally
to receive the crank disc, which is capable of free rotation upon the hub or centre
of the said wheel. The said wheel is provided with a slot, which is designed to
receive a piece provided with two heels or projections. The first of these pro-
jections traverses the disc of the wheel and enters a circular or annular groove
or recess in the crank disc. The cheek of the plumber-block or bearing of the
shaft carrying the aforesaid toothed wheel is also provided with a circular groove
or recess, in which the second projection travels. When the first projection is out
of its annular groove in the crank disc, and situated in a notch communicating
with the said groove, the piece carrying the projections connects the toothed
wheel and the crank disc, which is then put in motion by the first projection.
This projection however only remains in this position when the second projection
remains in the annular slot in the bearing. This bearing however is also provided
with a kind of switch, latch, or plate, which is so arranged that its extremity can
rest upon the bottom of the annular groove in the bearing. When in this position
the said switch forms an inclined plane, upon which the second projection rises,
thereby disengaging the first projection from the aforesaid notch in the crank-disc.
The latter therefore is no longer revolved, and the second projection being displaced
passes out of its annular groove in the bearing.
If the switch is raised the second projection will be forced or caused by it to
descend into its annular groove, and consequently the first projection will leave its
annular groove in the crank disc and will enter the notch, so that the toothed
wheel will again turn the said crank-disc. The operation of the said switch
which controls the disengaging gear is effected by the machine-regulator.
To commence the web 1 employ a double hand grasping device provided with
claws or hooks, which are made flexible to permit the passage of the device
between the two needle-beds. The yarn taken up by the curved needles are
retained or secured by the hooks of the said device; the web is thus commenced
by retaining the stitches. The yarn being thus retained I hook upon the grasping
device a weight, sufficient to stretch the web and assist in the drawing down of the
stitches from the hooks.
As above stated I employ two rows of curved needles and two rows of straight
needles in the manufacture of ribbed web, whilst the two rows of curved needles
only are employed for the fabrication of flat or plain web. To pass from the
ribbed web to the plain web without any dissolution of the continuity of the
fabric I operate with my improved machine as follows, that is to say:-Supposing
the straight needles are advanced beyond the curved needles in the main grooved
needle bed, I take a tool, trough shaped at its extremity and provided with a
handle, and draw back the whole row of the straight needles to the approximate
vertical face of the row of curved needles. When the said straight necdles are
thus brought close to the curved needles, I cause the latter to descend by means of
the same tool in such a manner as to bring them below the stitches formed by the
straight needles. These straight needles are then moved in a direction parallel
with the grooved needle beds by means of excentric levers in such a manner as to
come exactly opposite the curved needles, and then be brought back exactly above
the curved needles. The latter in rising take the stitches from the straight needles
These straight needles may then again be advantageously drawn back to release
the part of the stitch upon the latch of the ucedle. The part of the stitch upor
the hook then remains to be disengaged; this is effected in advancing and bringing
back the straight needles. These needles then remain at the rear, and the machin

page_text: is in readiness to make an even or plain web. The several movements above
referred to instead of being made by hand may also be effected mechanically and
controlled automatically by the regulator.
When the cam for operating the straight needles is lowered to form a flat web,
the straight needles will no longer act during the movement of the carrier.
When making a plain web the curved needles should rise to a less extent than
when making a ribbed web, so as to take up less yarn. For this purpose I mount
a piece upon an axis or spindle which can turn slightly, a spring being arranged
to press against the said axis, whose forward adjustment is determined by the
position of a rod or piece in a screwed opening; this piece is connected by a link
or crank to the regulator in such a manner that the change in the extent of travel
of the needles in the needle beds is effected automatically.
The diminution or narrowing is effected by the following means, that is to say :-
To diminish the width of the web it is necessary to perform two successive functions.
The first is to remove the stitches or mesh formed on the needles upon which the
diminished portion is to rest, and, second, to. ensure these needles not becoming
supplied with any more yarn during the succeeding movements of the conductor.
For this purpose I arrange upon each of the grooved needle beds the two pinchers
abovo referred to, and placed side by side; these pinchers, at the moment of effecting
the narrowing, descend automatically upon the needles opposite to them. Each of
these pinchers has nearly the form of a drawing pen. In descending its branches
or arms are separated by a suitable piece, and follow the needle opposite to it, and
take up the stitch which is released or passes from the latter; this needle then
recedes. At this moment the two grooved bed plates move in the direction of the
length of the machine, cach one to the extent of the distance between two successive
needles, in such a manner that the relative movement of one of the bed plates with
regard to the other is equal to two of the spaces between the needles.
From this double movement of the two bed plates there results the fact that the
two curved needles immediately adjacent to those from which the two pinchers
have taken the stitches are brought below the said pinchers; the latter then descend,
deposit the stitches on the said needles, and then rise, the narrowing being thus
effected. By a reverse motion an enlargement of the web or fabric may be effected
in place of a diminution.
The movement of the pinchers is determined in the following manner, that is
to say-These pinchers are supported by a lever, which is actuated by a crank
secured to or forming part of a piece, which is capable of a slight rocking movement,
with a shaft, to which it is connected by a key sliding in a slot in the said shaft ;
this axis or shaft is also controlled by another crank, a connecting rod, an elbow
lever, and two other connecting rods, one of which is controlled by a cam fixed on
the shaft carrying the aforesaid crank disc. The other of these two rods however
is not rigidly connected to the elbow lever, but is so arranged that it will be thrown
out of connection with the same when the pinchers should not move by a second
elbow lever connected with an oscillating lever upon which the regulator of the
machine acts. By this means, at the time it is desired to effect the diminution
the pinchers descend upon the two last needles, taking the two stitches and
raising the same as the needles disengage them; then when the grooved needle
beds are displaced the pinchers descend and place the said stitches upon the two
adjacent needles.
The longitudinal movement or displacement of the curved needle beds in one
direction or the other is effected in the following manner, that is to say- -Below
each bed plate is arranged a rack, having teeth formed in opposite directions upon
it, and arranged in connection with two pawls. The teeth of the racks which are
opposite to each other as well as the pawls are in an opposite direction, so that the
bed plates will be moved in reverse directions; there results therefore from this
arrangement that by an absolute displacement to the extent of one tooth, which
corresponds to the distance between two needles, the relative displacement of the
one bed plate with regard to the other is to the extent of two needles. The two

page_text: series of pawls for operating the bed plates are mounted upon shafts, one of which
carries an elbow lever upon which a connecting rod secured to another elbow lever
The said connecting rod is
actuated by a can on the crank disc shaft acts.
thrown out of gear by the regulator through the medium of a rocking lever
actuated by the latter.
The connection between the two pawls of the same bed plate is effected by means
of a small piece constituting a connecting rod, whose extremity is provided with
an oval or elongated opening, so that one pawl may be caused to engage the
bottom of a tooth in the rack before the other pawl. By this means I ensure the
proper engagement of the pawls, and their displacement being exactly that of
the distance of one tooth.
The movement of the regulator is effected by the arrangement upon its shaft of
a ratchet wheel, which is pushed by a pawl, struck at each end of the travel by the
aforesaid carrier. In some cases I replace the toothed regulator by a chain
regulator. In this case I employ, by preference, a stud or piece which is inserted
between the links of the chain, is then turned, and is held securely in place.
wheel over which the chain passes is necessarily toothed upon its periphery so that
the chain cannot slip and the travel may be sure.
The
To manufacture a stocking upon my improved machine I first make all the
cylindrical upper part of the same by causing the two bed plates to operate in the
ordinary manner. Then at the part where the width should be less the machine
automatically effects the diminution. When the height or top of the ankle is
reached it is necessary that the web should be widened and continue so until the
heel is nearly reached. To form the heel portion one of the bed plates is auto-
matically arrested by the disengaging gear of the crank disc above described; the
other needle bed then forms the heel in the form of a bag or pouch, after which
the foot part is continued, diminishing gradually toward the front or toe.
stocking is thus made entirely automatically by the machine, and in much less
time than that required by the machines heretofore in use for the purpose.
The
In the formation of the heel in the shape of a pouch it is necessary to narrow
and widen the web; for this purpose it is necessary that the yarn conductor should
only supply the yarn to a series of needles proportionate to the dimensions of the
pouch or bag to be formed. As this diminution cannot be effected by the racks by
reason of the formation of the heel, one of the needle beds, and consequently one of
the racks, is arrested. To then obtain a variable travel of the yarn-guide I employ
upon the front of the machine, and applied to that needle bed only upon which the
heel is to be made, the following devices, that is to say:-I employ two racks caused
to travel in opposite directions by means of a pinion arranged between them; these
racks are provided with inclined planes which serve to disengage the yarn guide
from the carrier. The said racks also carry and have fixed to them two upwardly
extending angular plates or arms which serve to strike the yarn-guide. They thus
limit the travel of the yarn guide to suit the width of the web to be formed.
Moreover the said plates or arms are provided with fillets which sustain thin metal
pieces in close proximity to the curved needles.
It is necessary, during the formation of the said pouch or bag, that each of the
needles which no longer receive the yarn should preserve its loop; at each
movement the carrier causes the needle to rise and fall as in ordinary working;
the loop leaving the latch will close the latter and consequently will let the stitch
fall. The thin metal pieces last herein referred to serve to maintain this loop; they
are fixed upon each of the curved plates carrying the curved needles which effect
the narrowing. During the narrowing the point of the thin metal pieces enter the
hollow formed in the end of the latch, and on the movement of the needle the yarn
slides upon the thin metal piece, thereby preventing the latch of the needle from rising;
the needle in descending recovers its stitch. In the widening, as in the ordinary
work, the thin metal piece is raised, and does not offer any obstruction to the
movement of the latch.
The movement of the racks provided with the inclines is produced by a lever

page_text: actuated by the regulator, and carrying a pawl which actuates another rack on a
cam piece. The inclined planes on the said rack bars are thus displaced for the
distance between two needles. From the arrangement of the last named cam or
cam piece the narrowing is effected until the top part of the cam comes into
operation; when this point is passed the reverse action is produced; the inclined
planes in receding permit the yarn guide to furnish one more needle at each
displacement of the said cam the distance of a tooth; the widening is then
effected. A spring or a counter weight draws back one of the said racks and
causes the inclined planes to follow, in their movement, the form of the cam.
To effect the raising of the last thin metal pieces I arrange in a rod fixed to each
extremity of the bed plate, and serving to maintain the curved carrying plates of
the curved needles in position, a slot in which the small fillet above referred to
slides for raising the thin metal plates. These pieces advance with the angular
strikers or bar above referred to, and are caused to follow them by means of a
counterweight which draws them along.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, and of
an Order of the Lord Chancellor, filed by the said William Robert Lake in
the Great Seal Patent Office on the 31st January 1881.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING MACHINES,
CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HOSIERY." A communication from
abroad by Jean François Gommeret, of Troyes, France.
'This Invention relates to improvements in knitting machines, chiefly designed for
the manufacture of hosiery, and suitable for the production of stockings, sporting
jackets, trousers, caps, and similar articles, properly proportioned, narrowed, and
free from seams. I can more especially produce upon the said machines stockings
with a plain flat web, or stockings with the foot and leg plain and with a ribbed
top or border, or a stocking with a ribbed leg and plain foot, properly shaped, and
so forth.
The manufacture of these articles is effected automatically and mechanically, and
the narrowing and the change from a ribbed to a plain web are produced in like
manner.
My improved machine is rectilinear, and has two channelled needle beds, each of
which is provided with two rows of needles. In the first row the needles are
curved and bent upwards so as to work face to face; the needles in the second
rows are almost horizontal, and are arranged between the curved needles. These
four rows of needles, when used together, serve for making a ribbed web, whilst
for a plain web the curved needles only are used. A special arrangement of
mechanism hereinafter described permits a ribbed portion of the web to be followed
by a plain portion, or vice versa.
Each of the needle beds is capable of being at any desired moment moved
lengthwise by means of screw mechanism either for the distance of one needle or
of two needles, so as to produce the narrowing of the web, and for this operation
the adjustment of the needle beds is combined with the action of point shifters,
transferrers, or ticklers, which take the loops from the needles that are not to be
further charged. The movements of the screw-mechanisms and of the point shifters
are furthermore controlled by a regulating or controlling device so constructed
as to produce at the proper time the desired effect.
This machine also presents in its combination certain peculiarities of construction,
especially in relation to the needle carrying plates, the carrier with a movable yarn
guide and its controlling devices, and the yarn guides (one for each needle bed),
which at the completion of each travel or course receive a slight combined advancing
and rotating motion so as to pass from one needle bed to the other, and close the
web at the ends of the two straight portions of the same made by the parallel
rows of needles; other features will be hereinafter referred to.
The construction and operation of my machine will be clearly understood by the
following description, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, in
which,-
Figure 1 (Sheet 1) is an elevation; Figure 2, a transverse section; and Figure 3,
an underside view of the said machine.
Figure 1 (Sheet 2) is a plan on the plane of the screw mechanism of the needle
beds.
The remaining Figures represent in detail various parts of the machine bereinafter
described.
The entire machine is supported by a frame X, which may be placed upon a
table, bench, or the like. The said machine may be arranged to work with self-
acting or other needles. I will now proceed to describe it as constructed to work

page_text: with self-acting needles, the modifications required if other needles are to be used
being obvious.
The needle beds A are curved and formed of bronze or other suitable metal,
each having a dovetailed part capable of sliding in the frame or stand to allow of
narrowing. Within the needle beds are arranged the curved plates or needle-
shanks a,
To prevent the stretching of the loops I employ two carriers x which support the
thread or yarn guides l. Each plate a has a heel (or projection c, upon which act
the curved pieces, cams, or excentrics e, e¹, shewn in Figure 2, Sheet 1, and in
detail in Figures 2, 3, and 4, Sheet 2. The shaft e carries the piece d, which is
dovetailed, as shewn in Figure 3, Sheet 2; upon this piece are fixed the said
pieces e', e, serving as cams or excentrics for the needles; in the position shewn
at e the cam or curved piece is so placed as to be operative, whilst in the position
shewn at e' it is raised, and thus passes above the heels c of the plates a.
carrier travels in the direction of the arrow, Figure 4, Sheet 2, this curved piece
When the
or excentric occupies the position shewn at e. For moving these needle cains I
have arranged upon the carrier x a bar e³, provided with slots e, in which the
screw e fixed to the part & fits. When one end of the slide e abuts against a
suitably arranged stop on the frame the said slide is displaced, and its displace-
ment actuates the excentrics e¹, e³, by means of the slots es, e; the said excentrics
are also actuated when the other end of the slide strikes against a stop. The shape
of the cams or excentrics e¹, e², is clearly shewn in the Drawings.
Each needle plate has a notch c¹ (see Figure 2, Sheet 1, and Figure 2, Sheet 2).
and into these notches the elbow levers h', Figure 2, Sheet 1, enter. These levers
are capable of movement upon the shaft h², which is mounted on two levers h³, h³,
attached to the shaft h; this shaft h' is actuated by the cam B through the lever B'.
The said cam is fixed on the shaft D, which makes the same number of revolutions
as the shaft Y of the regulator, so that when the roller of the lever B¹ is on the
circular part of the periphery of the cam the cam or excentric upon the piece d
will cause the needle-plates a to descend and take up the yarn to make the loop ;
in this position the levers h are raised by means of a bar 7', Figures 1 and 2,
Sheet 1; this bar has inclined planes 21, 22, Figure 1, Sheet 1, and is displaced by
projections provided on the plate Y¹. When these projections cause the said bar to
advance the inclined planes 2¹, 2ª, cause it to rise, and in rising it raises the levers l'
which leave the notches in the needle plates a, a, and thus permit the latter to
descend by reason of the action of the cams or excentrics. When the cam presents
its depression or recess Z³ the bar Z is released from the projection on the plate Y',
and is drawn back by a spring and allows the levers h¹ to fall into the notches c¹
of the needle plates a; the lever B' in descending into the recess or depression Z³
of the cam B causes the needle plates a to rise and thus disengage the loops; the
succeeding projections compel them to descend in such a manner as to produce two
different movements to effect the formation of the loops not formed in the first
depression; this arrangement renders the loops regular, and also tightens them,
thereby giving greater elasticity to the fabric; when the roller of the lever B' has
passed the greatest or knocking over boss the hollow or depression Z in the cam B
aises all the needles simultaneously and prepares them to receive the yarn. The
lescent of the lever is effected by a coiled spring or by a counter-cam.
In consequence of the scurvature of the needle beds A the two rows of needles b
present themselves when raised parallel to each other so that they cannot meet,
out with sufficient space between them to allow the web to pass.
between the needle beds A a sufficient space for such web to pass freely I arrange
To reserve
t the end of each of the said needle beds (and on that side thereof adjacent to the
oint shifter carrier which serves for narrowing the web) an intermediate needle b¹
see Figure 5, Sheet 2). This needle b' divides the space between the needle beds.
nto two equal parts; this space is of such a width that the interval between the
eedle band each adjacent needle b is equal to that which separates any two of

page_text: the needles b, b, throughout the length of the needle bed A, so that the loops of the
web have exactly the same size throughout the circumference of the work.
The two needles 61, 61, (whereof one is shewn separately on an enlarged scale in
Figures 6 and 7, Sheet 2) have their plates or shanks arranged similarly to those
of the other curved needles b, and operate in the same manner, but their barb or
hook extends outward so as to be parallel with the needle beds, and consequently
takes the yarn laterally.
The said machine is composed of two entirely separate or distinct parts, each
operating independently of the other, and having special operating mechanism.;
the needles of each needle bed form one side of the web, and at each edge of the 1
web the last needle b of one row attaches one side of the web by a loop to the last
needle of the other row by passing the loop round the needle b', as illustrated in
Figure 5, Sheet 2; thus each of the two sides of the fabric is made by the needles
in the separate needle beds, the said sides being united at the edges as above
described so as to form a circular or continuous web or fabric.
In the interior of cach needle bed are placed guides f, between which slide the
nearly horizontal plates g, to which are soldered the straight needles h which cross
the curved needles. Figure 8, Sheet 2, shews the respectivo positions of one of the
curved needles b and a straight needle h. Each plate or shank g of a straight
needle has a heel or projection c2 which is actuated by a cam piece shewn in s
Figures 9 and 10, Sheet 2. This piece is mounted on the shaft e and actuated by
the carrier in such a manner that it causes the needles to advance successively
This piece is free
to catch the yarn, descend with it, and then again advance.
to oscillate and leave the heel c² of the plates g, so that the latter becoming free
between the guides fit will be easy to throw them out of action, as shewn in
Figure 3, Sheet 1. When it is desired to work with the curved needles b only, for
when making ribbed fabric, the four rows of needles must be used, but the two
rows of needles must be thrown out of action or withdrawn so as to allow the
For effecting
curved needles b only to work when a plain fabric is to be made.
the descent of the cam-piece d' when required so as not to act on the needles h I
provide between the top of this piece d¹ and the heel of the piece j drawn along by
the carrier a bar i; if this bar i is operated the piece d' oscillates and frees the
heels or projections c² of the plates or shanks g of the needles h. The displacement
of the bar i may be effected by hand or automatically by the regulator of the machine.
The delivery of the yarn to the needles of each needle bed is effected by a yarn
guide, conductor, or carrier, actuated in the following manner, that is to say:-The
said yarn guide carrier consists of what might be termed a box, guided by the
slide k, and supporting a plate l, capable of sliding in a direction transversely to
the longitudinal axis of the machine, as shewn detached on an enlarged scale in
Figures 11 and 12, Sheet 2. The socket of the yarn-guide forms part of a plate of
steel held by a tenon in the plate l.
I arrange (as shewn in side view Figure 13, in section Figure 14, and in plan
Figure 15) upon the slide k, a sliding-piece y having a slot y₁ of the form shewn,
so that according to the position of the escapement of the piece n (Figure 2,
Sheet 1, and Figures 13, 14 and 15, Sheet 2) attached to the carrier x, the said
slide is moved forward by this carrier, and the sliding piece y is also carried
forward independently of the slide; for this purpose I provide in the slide a
recess or notch n', which receives the piece n placed slightly below the level of the
slide y, so that according to the position of the escapement, the said slide may be
stopped whilst the sliding piece y continues to be moved; the pin q fixed upon the
yarn carrier and entering the slot y' follows the movement imparted to it by the
sinuosities of the slot y¹ in such a manner that the yarn-carrier passes over the rear
or outer needle bed placed in front when travelling in the direction of the arrow
Figure 15. The first inclined plane or edge of the slot carries the yarn carrier to
the needle b¹ (Figure 5, Sheet 2) separating the two needle beds. In this position
the tube of the yarn carrier will be inclined by means of the pin y² fixed in front

page_text: of the said yarn carrier; this pin will strike against the stop y³ (see the transverse
section, Figure 4, Sheet 1) which is mounted on the elbow lever or bar of the point
shifter carrier herein before referred to. The yarn carrier will then be inclined, and
will present itself between the two first needles of the front needle bed, the slide y
5 at the same time continuing its motion, the pin g of the yarn-carrier travels up
the second inclined face or edge of the slot, and passes in front of the first needle,
and supplies the same with yarn. The descending inclined part of the slot causes
the yarn-carrier to withdraw behind the needle of the front needle bed; at this
moment a second escapement acts, and the picce n leaves the slide y. In the return
movement (when the piece n again engages with the slide y, carrying the same up
to the slot provided in the sliding piece for the reception of the piece n) the yarn-
carrier is returned to its normal position. When the sliding piece is carried by the
other end of the needle bed the same effect is produced by means of the fixed
escapements or inclined planes o, o'; the slot of the slide whose face is less inclined
couducts the yarn carrier only beyond the first needle.
The carrier is provided with a pin or stud r, upon which the oscillating lever or
connecting rod acts by means of the connecting rod 2, which is attached to the
crank disc B* upon the shaft C. This crank disc is not however fixed upon the
said shaft C which carries it, but has motion imparted to it in the following
manner (see Figure 1, Sheet 1):-A pinion D* fixed upon the driving shaft M
actuates a toothed wheel E on the shaft C. This wheel E has its interior made
hollow to receive the crank-disc B*, which is capable of free rotation upon the hub
of the said wheel. In this wheel E I form a slot F, as shewn in Figure 1, Sheet 2,
also in detail, Figures 16, 17, and 18, Sheet 2. Figure 16 is a section on the
line M, N, Figure 17; Figure 18 is a section on line P, Q, of the same Figure; and
Figure 17 is a section on the line R, S, of Figures 16 and 18. The said slot F has
for its object to receive the piece G provided with two heels or projections H, H',
and shown separately and on an enlarged scale in Figures 19 and 20, Sheet 2; one
of the heels H traverses the disc of the wheel E and enters a circular or annular
groove I (see Figures 17 and 21, the latter being a front view of the inner face of
the crank dise B*). The cheek of the bearing J also has a circular groove or recess I',
in which the other heel H' of the piece G is free to turn (see Figures 16 and 17,
Sheet 2).
When the heel or projection H is out of the groove I of the crank disc B* and
has entered a notch or opening K (Figure 21, Sheet 2) the piece G will unite the
wheel E and the crank disc B✶ which will then be revolved by the heel H. But
this heel H will not remain in this position unless the second heel H¹ remains in
the groove I' of the bearing (Figure 16). This bearing however is also provided
with what may be termed a switch or latch L, so arranged that its extremity can
rest on the bottom of the groove I' as shewn. When in this position the said
switch forms an inclined plane, up which the heel H¹ of the piece G travels, the
effect being to disengage the heel H from the notch or opening K of the crank-
disc B*, which is therefore no longer revolved. The heel H' being thus displaced
passes outside of the groove I' of the bearing. If however the switch L is raised,
s shewn in dotted lines in Figure 16, Sheet 2, the heel H¹ will be forced by it to
lescend into the groove I'; consequently the heel H will leave the groove I of the
rank disc B* and will enter the notch or opening K, and the wheel E will again
urn the said crank-disc.
The switch L which controls the disengaging or clutch gearing, is actuated by
he regulating device of the machine.
To commence the work I use a device N, shewn in front view in Figure 22, and
transverse section in Figure 23 of Sheet 2; this device is provided with point
ifters or transferrers O, which are made flexible to permit the device to be passed
etween the two needle beds A, and to assume a position relatively to the
cedles as shown in Figure 23. The yarn taken up by the needles b is retained by
e hooks of the device N; the web is thus.commenced by retaining the loops,

page_text: and the yarn being thus held I attach to the said device a weight sufficient to
stretch the web, and to assist in drawing down the loops from the hooks of the
needles.
I have hereinabove stated that the two rows of curved needles b, and the two
rows of straight needles are used to make a ribbed web, whilst the two rows of 5
curved needles only are used for making a plain web, for the passage from the
ribbed web to a plain web, without requiring the same to be re-looped, and without
breaking the continuity of the web. I operate with my machine as follows, that is
to say Supposing the needles h to have advanced beyond the curved needles b, as
shewn in Figure S, Sheet 2, the whole of the needles in the row are, by means of a 1
handle, tool, or device, of the form shewn in Figure 24, Sheet 2, drawn back
approximately to the vertical face of the row of needles b.
When the needles h are thus brought quite near to the needles b, the latter are
caused to descend by means of the same tool or device so as to bring them
underneath the loops formed by the needles ; these needles are then moved in a 1
direction parallel to the needle beds by means of excentric levers t, t, (Figure 3,
Sheet 1) so as to come exactly opposite the curved needles; they are then moved
further back so that they are exactly above the said curved needles, and the latter
when rising take the loops from the needles ; these needles are then still further
drawn back to release that part of the loops which was on the latch of the needles.
The part which was in the hook then remains to be freed, and this result is effected
by advancing and then drawing back the needles h. The said needles then
remaining at the rear, the machine is ready to knit plain web. These various
movements instead of being effected by hand, may be effected mechanically and
controlled automatically by the regulating device. When the cam d' is lowered for
the purpose of making a plain web the needles h will not be affected by the
movement of the aforesaid carrier.
In knitting a plain web the needles b should rise less than in knitting a ribbed
fabric, so that they may take less yarn. For this purpose the piece j is mounted at
the end of the shaft e, which is capable of being slightly displaced. For this
purpose a coiled spring v, Figure 2, Sheet 1, bears against the portion u of the
shaft; its forward adjustment is determined by the position of the screw f¹ in
the nut g. This screw f¹ is connected by a crank f2 and a connecting-rod
with the controlling device, in such a manner that the change in the extent of
travel of the needles b is caused automatically.
The narrowing is effected by the following means, that is to say -For diminishing
the width of the web two successive operations must be performed, viz., first,
the loops have to be taken from the requisite number of needles to suit the
narrowing desired, and, secondly, these needles must be prevented from taking yarn
in the succeeding movements of the yarn-guide. To this end I arrange upon each
of the needle beds a set of two point shifters, transferrers, or ticklers p', which are
placed side by side, and which at the time the narrowing is to be effected, descend
automatically upon the needles in line therewith; each of these point shifters has
a form closely resembling that of a drawing pen.
The point shifters p' consist of small steel-plates or jaws soldered to a copper
or brass tube p' (Figure 1, Sheet 1); their lower points touch, whilst at the top
the arms or jaws are less close to each other, the object of this arrangement being
to afford a passage for two small plates p² fixed on a shaft 23 passing through the
tube p; these plates have at their ends small buttons or knobs p³, which serve fo
opening the point-shifter p². The tube p is operated by a bell-crank lever i
actuated by the rack with which it is connected; this rack receives its motion
from a pawl is, the lever 24 of which is operated by the boss or projection and
small movable pawl i. This boss or projection 25 is fixed upon a slide j¹ in whic
is formed a notch or indentation j² for the reception of the lever 13, arranged to b
actuated by the cam j through a lever j; the lever is by the regulating devic
caused to enter at the proper moment the notch 12. The cam causes a forwar

page_text: movement of the lever j³, which carries with it the slide j¹, and the boss 25 upon the
latter operates the lever i, and by means of the pawl is moves the rack 2 which
actuates the bell crank lever as above stated.
The jaws of the point shifters are opened when the tube carrying the
said jaws descends; the latter carries with it the shaft provided with a
stud which bears upon the fixed piece, serving as a guide-way wherein the
jaw carrying tube p' works. When the shaft is stopped, and as the tube
continues to descend, the small knobs p³ enter the oval parts of the point shifter
jaws and thus allow the latter to close upon the needle, they thus travel with it to
the knocking over bar. In the meantime a small jaw or blade, fixed by a bell
crank lever arrangement to the bracket or knee-piece carrying the point shifter and
placed behind the web, rises and forces the loop to rise on the jaws of the point
shifters p'; the action of the tube p* still continues, and the small knobs p³ having
passed the oval part reach the upper part of the jaws, push them aside or outwards,
and thus uphold the loops whilst the needle beds advance; the needle is presented
to the opening of the point shifter jaws and thus takes the loop held by the same.
The point shifter, which withdraws whilst the needle is rising, allows the loop to
fall upon the needle. In then rising the pin fixed upon the shaft strikes against
a small knee piece or bracket, which retains the same whilst the pointer shifter
holding tube p continues to rise, and thus returns to the position it must occupy
for descending upon the needle, that is to say, with the knobs lower than the oval
parts of the jaws of the point shifter p¹ so as to hold the same apart.
I will now describe the arrangement for presenting the needle for narrowing.
Upon the shafte of the carrier x there is a piece o¹ (see Figure 4, Sheet 1)
sliding upon the shaft e provided with a groove for the reception of a pin or feather
on the said piece o'. The said piece carries an arm which enters the notch or recess c
in the plate a, and its width is such that it enters the notches c¹, c¹, of two needles; the
groove in the shaft e is so formed that its end serves as a stop to the piece o¹,
and the latter is moved on the said shaft by means of the piece which slides
in a groove in the carrier x. This piece can be lifted by means of a suitably
arranged catch (actuated for this purpose by means of the piece 12) when the
piece o¹ is in engagement with the plates a for the purpose of narrowing. Upon
the extremity of the shaft e is fixed a crank 3 (Figures 25 and 26) which receives
motion by means of the slide 1, upon which are provided the projections 15, 1³, for
operating the pieces m¹, m', connected with the crank 3 of the shaft c. It will be
obvious that the shaft turns according to the movement given to it by the cam
arrangement; the shaft in rotating will by means of the piece o¹ present the needles
to the point shifters as required for the narrowing.
When the needle beds move, the piece o¹ is in the position in which it enters
the notches in the needle plates; the needle beds A. being movable when in this
position displace in their movement the plates a which the piece o' causes to rise
to take the loop that remains on the point shifters p². The carrier in returning
moves the piece o¹ to the position which it occupies when no narrowing is to take
place.
The longitudinal movement of the curved needle beds in one or the other
direction is effected in the following manner-Below the needle beds are arranged
screws O, O; these screws are provided with movable nuts 02, 0%, engaging by
means of cylinders Q, Q, (Figure 1, Sheet 2, and Figure 2, Sheet 1) divided into
two parts with three teeth on each part, so that by making one third of a rotation
the teeth bearing against the screw O of the nut are in a recess or hollow, and the
tooth of the other part of the cylinder will be upon the thread of the nut N and
causes the same to gear with the screw whilst the other is thrown out of gear.
These screws have, as indicated by Figure 1, Sheet 2, a right hand thread and
a left hand thread, so as to allow the nuts to be thrown into gear and to cause the
needle beds to move back ward or forward as may be requisite; by one or the other
of these needle beds movement is imparted to the screws by means of a rack R
(Figure 4, Sbeet 1), actuated by the lever S through the cam T. This rack R

page_text: actuates the pinions U which are loose on the shaft of the screws, but are provided
with an arm U' carrying a pawl U², which imparts motion to a wheel with two
ratchet teeth Us; this wheel is fixed upon the screw O and actuates the same. The
rack R remains in the position to which the cam T carries it until a narrowing
takes place; then a stop worked by the controlling device is withdrawn and the
rack returns and actuates the pawl U2, which acts upon a tooth of the ratchet wheel
and the cam T again commences to operate.
I provide a kind of grate or trellis V (Figure 2, Sheet 2), having a spring for
each plate, so as to hold the latter in the proper position to readily receive the heel
of the lever ¹ which actuates the needles.
The controlling device Y¹ is set in motion by a ratchet wheel Y' mounted on
the shaft Y; this ratchet wheel is moved by a pawl Y³, against which the carrier
strikes at each end of its course or travel.
The cam-regulating device may be replaced by a chain regulating device, as
illustrated in Figure 5, Sheet 1. In this case I preferably adopt the stud or piece G¹
constructed as shewn in this Figure, and also shewn separately in side view and in
plan on an enlarged scale in Figures 6 and 7, Sheet 1. This stud is inserted.
laterally between the links of the chain, it is then turned and will remain per-
manently in its place. The wheel over which the chain passes is toothed on its
periphery, so that the chain may not slip and the gearing may be positive in its
action.
To manufacture a stocking on my improved machine I first make the whole of
the upper cylindrical part with the two needle beds in the ordinary position; then at
the part where the width is to be less the machine itself will automatically produce
the narrowing. When the ankle-part is reached it is necessary for the web to be
widened, and continue so until the heel is nearly reached. For making the heel
one of the needle beds is automatically stopped by the aforesaid crank disc plates
being thrown out of gear. The other needle bed then forins the heel in the form
of a pouch or pocket, and after this operation the foot portion is continued, being
gradually narrowed towards the point or toe.
The stocking is therefore made entirely automatically by the machine, and in
much less time than would be practicable with machines as heretofore constructed.
It will be readily understood that for knitting the heel the yarn is fed to one of
the needle beds only, and that the escapements for the yarn guides can be so set
that the inclined planes of the same regulate the movement of the yarn-guide to the
required point only.
In that part of the needle bed which is to be used for making heels or pockets
in some articles, such as vests, trousers, and the like, I arrange the levers h¹ in
such a manner that each of them has the width of one division only, so that it
shall cause one needle only to rise and fall, and so that they may work separately
or all together as in forming the heel. The needles which are not to receive any
yarn are not actuated, because the heels or projections c¹ remain below in the
position into which they are placed by the knocking over, and they are not lifted.
The action of the lever is suspended by the mechanism which serves as an
escapement for the yarn guide, by connecting with the said escapement a small rod
passing beneath the levers h¹ and by the side of the bar Z; it is obvious that
this rod operates to the right or left, in the same manner as the escapement of the
heel piece.
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim the above described improvements in rectilinear knitting machinery,
characterized especially by the following features, viz.:-
First. The needle-beds made movable by the combined action of the screws and
the nuts.
Second. The curved shape of the two needle-beds, which allows the needles
therein to work face to face.
Third. The peculiar formation of the plates which carry the needles.

page_text: Fourth. The combination of the yarn delivering carrier with a movable curved
piece, cam, or excentric, operating as above described for the purpose specified.
Fifth. The form and arrangement of the carrier of the two needle-beds.
Sixth. The mechanism for knocking over the loops.
Seventh. The arrangement of the stopping devices and escapements which are
thrown out of gear automatically.
Eighth. The manner in which the yarn delivering devices are thrown out of gear.
Ninth. The arrangement of the yarn guide to allow it to pass from one needle
bed to the other to close the web by means of the end needles.
Tenth. The mechanism for narrowing, and especially the form and arrangement
of the point shifter or point shifters.
Eleventh. The construction of the device for commencing the work.
Twelfth. The arrangement of the needles b¹ at the end of and equidistant from
the needle beds.
Thirteenth. The mechanism for effecting the automatic narrowing and widening
of the web or fabric, for the purposes specified.
Fourteenth. The shape of the point shifters or ticklers (which serve during the
narrowing to hold the loops) and the parts connected therewith.
Fifteenth. The arrangement of the regulator or controlling device and the special
form of the studs of the chain.
Sixteenth. The mechanism combined with the needle beds and their needles to
allow a ribbed web to be followed by a plain web, or vice versa.
Seventeenth. The trellis V, which serves for keeping the needle plates in
position.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty eighth day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.
WM. ROBT. LAKE. (L.S.)