IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE." MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFacture of LaCE
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Eugéne Malhère, of Paris, Boulevard de Stras-
bourg, No. 23, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVED
MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE."
MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFacture of LaCE.”

page_text: principle by which I bring about the various crossings of the threads,
which in handwork constitute, according to their arrangement and
number, the elements of the ordinary lace, such as net, border, flowered,
toothed, or purl lace.
The essential organs in my machinery are discs arranged tangentially
one after another capable of receiving bobbins of thread mounted upon
little carriages. On the one hand these discs can at determined moments
turn upon themselves for one half revolution, which takes place in one
direction for the even discs, and in another direction for the odd discs;
and on the other hand the carriages of the bobbins can be transported
from one disc to the other; and be distributed in the desired order
in the interior of the discs which communicate their semi-revolutions to
them. This arrangement permits the necessary crossings of the threads
for the formation of any desired interlacement to be effected very simply.
Thus at the commencement, position No. 1, the threads are lodged
in the odd discs only after a half turn of these discs in the direction of
from the right to the left. Position No. 2, the thread 3 is crossed with
the thread 2, the thread 5 is crossed with the thread 4, and so on, and by
this means the first crossing of the various threads is effected. A portion
of the carriages are then caused to slide in the direction of the dia-
meters of the points of contact, so as to bring the threads 2 and 5 upon
the fourth disc, and the threads 6 and 9 upon the eighth disc. Position
No. 3, if a half turn of two of the even discs is produced the thread 2
is crossed over the thread 5 and the thread 6 over the thread 9. Position
No. 4, which affects the 2nd crossing of the various threads. The
other crossings of the mesh are produced by the positions 5 and 6 of the
discs. Pins are provided with which to fix for the moment the crossings
of the threads.
From what precedes it will have been remarked that it is by a suc-
cession of two alternate operations, namely, the rotation of the discs and
the transport of the bobbins that the crossings necessary for a given
interlacing are produced. In the example I have chosen there are eight
changes to produced for an entire transverse series of hexagonal meshes,
with the intervention of two placings of the pins.
The discs and the bobbin carriages, which are the chief organs in my
machinery are thus arranged :-Each disc is provided with a pin or axis,
which serves for imparting its motion to it, and has a groove made on its

page_text: diameter, in which the foot of the bobbin carriage slides, and is prolonged
by a piece of T form, the short branch of which is screwed to its centre.
Each bobbin is composed of a sort of spring box, the spiral spring of
which serves to regulate the enrolment of the thread concurrently with
or check spring, which rubs against a groove in the bobbin. This bobbin
is mounted on a pivot in a carriage consisting of a rectangular wood box
covered with a metal border. In its full part a channel is formed, which
receives one half of the horizontal portion of the T formed piece of the
disc. The bobbin carriage is thus perfectly guided and held while at the
same time being able to remove rectilinearly from one disc to another.
The removal is effected by means of double bent levers, the axes of which
are parallel with the pins of the discs. The bends, which are connected by
cords with the hook of the jacquard mechanism, receive in this manner a
slight oscillating movement, which they transmit by the axes of the bent
levers to hooks or square arms, which act directly on the carriages.
Cords, terminated by weights draw the levers into their normal position.
The rotating movement is imparted to the discs by means of sleeves
with hook gearing. Each sleeve is composed of two parts, one being
keyed to the axis and the other free. Both are provided with bevilled
teeth. They are pressed against one another by a spiral spring, which
puts them in contact in one direction only. This direction, which is not
the same for the even discs as for the odd discs, is determined by the
setting of the teeth of the sleeve. Round the necks of the free portion
of the sleeve the action cords united to the jacquard are rolled, as
well as the recall cords, terminated by weights. The movement of
rotation being limited to a half turn I fix to the axis of the sleeve a nut
hollowed out, following two flat and parallel bottoms. This nut is embraced
by a cap. The branches of the caps are prolonged and enveloped by spiral
springs, which allow the caps to be bound two by two with the four
series of discs. When the nuts turn with their pins they commence by
presenting their circular parts to the cross pieces of the caps, which are
forced to separate by taking a certain position. The springs contract and
tighten, thus forcing the caps to approach one another and to support
themselves upon the flat bottoms of the hollowings as soon as the semi-
revolution is exactly accomplished.
As the extreme discs only effect a quarter of a turn for the passage of
the bobbin carriages from one series to another, the nuts fixed to the
axes of the sleeves which concern these discs carry four hollows. As soon

page_text: as it is necessary to cause these end discs to execute a half turn, one
would adapt upon their pins a supplementary gearing sleeve also
commanded by a cord united to the jacquard.
The preceeding description has explained my system of interlacing the
threads, and I proceed now to describe the arrangements for fixing
the crossings: My machinery is of a circular form. The pins carrying
the discs have their supports in two cylindrical crowns, and they are
divided into four horizontal series. All the bobbin carriages are thus
situated at the exterior extremity of the frame, and their threads, com-
mencing from the circumference, converge towards the centre, where the
lace is formed, which then proceeds to roll itself upon a cylinder. Two
threads placed upon the same disc determine a cone in their rotation, the
base of which is at the disc and the summit upon the central line. It is
this central line then to which the carriages are brought. For this
purpose I utilize the free spaces existing between the cones, and I there
arrange metallic bands directed in the radial direction of the threads.
Each of these bands is fixed on one side by a hollow tube keyed to the
inner cylinder, and it carries at the other extremity a square return piece
intended to fix it to the centre of the machine. This band is twisted
with a semi-revolution, and this twisting is for the purpose of causing a
pusher sliding upon it to make a half turn in order to push the crossings
to the centre. It follows that the little fork of the pusher describes a
helicoidal surface, which permits it to seize and to return the lower
threads of the crossings. The axes of the bands, instead of converging
towards the centre, are all directed tangentially to an imaginary cylinder
concentric with the axis of the machine. The guide bands are all
traversed by two pins carrying between them little rollers, upon which
two cords pass, attached on the one hand to a drum actuated by the
jacquard, and on the other to the pushers, which they put in motion.
When the pushers have finished their course towards the centre they are
recalled to their point of repose by the weighted cords.
In order to hold the lace threads at the centre I employ two doors
kept closed by springs, but which cords attached to the jacquard
tend to open. These doors open in order to permit the pushers to com-
plete their course to the centre. During this opening the doors are
replaced by two fliers, which in folding to imprison between them the
threads of the lace.

page_text: When the crossings are thus arrived at the centre the lace is manu-
factued, but it is necessary to fix the points, and if their breadth is
too great it is sufficient to reduce it. The reducing mechanism is
composed of two carriages, which can in sliding in the transverse slides
approach towards or separate from the medial line which the lace
follows. This approaching of the slides is produced by the traction of
the jacquard cords, and they are recalled to their initial position by the
weighted cords. The carriages each carry a bundle of metal blades
forming a sort of comb or fan, upon each of which a little runner pro-
vided with a pin slide. The runners are simultaneously led by forks,
which slide upon tringles and are drawn by the cords of the Jacquard;
they return to their place by weighted cords passing over little pulleys.
The runners with their needles or pins effect four rectilinear displace-
ments, which form the four sides of a rectangle. Each fork carries a
claw, which at the two extremities of the road of the Drawing meets with
two ears or tippers, into which the claws alternately hook in order to
maintain the comb-bearing carriage in its position. The cars are united
to the levers commanded by the jacquard, which thus brings about the
release at the desired moment.
I can utilize all the bobbins of the machine for the manufacture either
of one band of lace or of several bands at the same time.
I can dispense with the runners at the crossings, when desirable, by
rendering the guides at the left surface of the pushers movable, and by
making these guides slide in openings horizontally arranged in two
vertical pieces placed near the centre, as are the pins for the support and
uniting of the guides mentioned above. With this modification the lace
could be reduced at the centre to the desired width.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the
thirty-fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Eugene Malhère, Her special
licence that I, the said Eugéne Malhère, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Eugéne Malhère, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE
MANUFACTURE OF LACE," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Eugéne Malhère, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Eugéne Malhère, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings here-
unto annexed, that is to say :-
This Invention relates to the production of lace by means of mecha-
nical appliances whose movements are somewhat similar to those of the
spindles or bobbins of the machine used in the hand manufacture.
In order to render the construction of my appliances, their arrange-
ment, and their method of working clear, I proceed to explain the
principal by which I bring about the various crossings of the threads,
which in handwork constitute, according to their arrangement and
number, the elements of the ordinary lace, such as net, border, flowered,
toothed, or purl lace.
The essential organs in my machinery are discs arranged tangentially
one after another, capable of receiving bobbins of thread mounted upon
little carriages. On the one hand these discs can at determined moments

page_text: turn upon themselves for one-half revolution, which takes place in one
direction for the even discs, and in another direction for the odd discs;
and on the other hand the carriages of the bobbins can be transported
from one disc to the other, and be distributed in the desired order in the
interior of the discs, which communicate their semi-revolutions to them.
This arrangement permits the necessary crossings of the threads for the
formation of any desired interlacement to be effected very simply.
In the annexed Drawings Figure 1 shews on an exaggerated scale a
net of lace; and in Figure 2 the different positions which the thread
bobbins 1, 2, &c., occupy in the discs A, B, C, &c., during the different
phases of the interlacing work.
Thus at the commencement, position No. 1, the threads are lodged
in the odd discs only. The sign + indicates the thread proceeding from
the net on the left after a half turn of these discs in the direction of
from the right to the left. Position No. 2, the thread 3 is crossed with
the thread 2, the thread 5 is crossed with the thread 4, and so on, and by
this means the crossing a, a, in Figure 1, of the various threads is
effected. A portion of the carriages are then caused to slide in the
direction of the diameters of the points of contact, so as to bring the
threads 2 and 5 upon the fourth disc D, and the threads 6 and 9 upon
the eighth disc H. Position No. 3, if a half turn of two of the even
discs D and H is produced, the thread 2 is crossed over the thread 5, and
the thread 6 over the thread 9. Position No. 4, which effects the
crossings b, b, Figure 1, of the various threads. The manner in which
the other crossings c, c, and d, d, of the mesh are produced is explained
clearly by the positions 5 and 6 of the discs. Pins 0, 0, 0, are
provided with which to fix for the moment the crossings of the
threads.
From what precedes it will have been remarked that it is by a suc-
cession of two alternate operations, namely, the rotation of the discs and
the transport of the bobbins, that the crossings necessary for a given
interlacing are produced. In the example I have chosen there are eight
changes to be produced for an entire transverse series of hexagonal
meshes, with the intervention of two placings of the pins.
The discs and the bobbin carriages, which are the chief organs in my
machinery are thus arranged:-Each disc A, see Figures 3 and 4, is
provided with a pin or axis a, which serves for imparting its motion to

page_text: it, and has a groove a¹ made on its diameter, in which the foot of the
bobbin carriage slides, and is prolonged by a piece a", a¹¹, of T form, the
short branch of which is screwed to its centre. Each bobbin B,
Figures 3 and 4, is composed of a sort of spring box, the spiral spring
of which serves to regulate the enrolment of the thread concurrently
with a check spring b¹, which rubs against a groove in the bobbin. This
bobbin is mounted on a pivot in a carriage C, consisting of a rectangular
wood box covered with metal. In its solid part a channel c is formed,
which receives one-half of the horizontal portion of the T formed piece a"
of the disc. The bobbin carriage is thus perfectly guided and held,
while at the same time being able to remove rectilinearly from one disc
to another. This removal is effected by means of the following arrange-
ments, shewn in the Drawings at Figures 5 and 6. It consists of double
bent levers, the axes e, e, of which are parallel with the pins a, a, of the
discs. The bends e¹, e¹, which are connected by cords with the hook of
the jacquard mechanism, receive in this manner a slight oscillating
movement, which they transmit by the axes e, e, of the bent levers to
hooks or square arms e", e", which act directly on the carriages. Cords,
terminated by weights, draw the lever into their nominal position.
The rotating movement is imparted to the discs by means of sleeves,
shown at Figure 7, with hook gearing. Each sleeve is composed of two
parts, one of which G is keyed to the axis a, while the other is free.
Both are provided with bevilled teeth. They are pressed against one
another by a spiral spring f, which puts them in contact in one direction
only. This direction, which is not the same for the even dises as for the
odd discs, is determined by the setting of the teeth of the sleeve. Round
the necks g, g, of the free portion of the sleeve G¹ the action cords
united to the jacquard are rolled, as well as the recall cords, ter-
minated by weights. The movement of rotation being limited to a half
turn, I fix to the axis a of the sleeve a nut / hollowed out, following two ;
flat and parallel bottoms. This nut is embraced by a cap h¹. The
branches of the caps are prolonged and enveloped by spiral springs ",
which allow the caps to be bound two by two with the four series of
discs. When the nuts turn with their pins they commence by presenting
their circular parts to the cross pieces of the caps, which are forced to
separate by taking a certain position. The springs contract and tighten,
thus forcing the caps to approach one another and to support themselves
upon the flat bottoms of the hollowings as soon as the semi-revolution is
exactly accomplished.

page_text: As the extreme discs only effect a quarter of a turn for the passage of
the bobbin carriages from one series to another, the nuts fixed to the
axes of the sleeves which concern these discs carry four hollows. As
soon as it is necessary to cause these end discs to execute a half turn,
one would adapt upon their pins a supplementary gearing sleeve, also
commanded by a cord united to the jacquard.
General Action of the Apparatus.-The preceding description has
explained my system of interlacing the threads, and I proceed now to
describe, with reference to Figure 8, the arrangement for fixing the
crossings:-My machinery is of a circular form. The pins carrying the
discs have their supports in two cylindrical crowns M, M, and they are
divided into four horizontal series. All the bobbin carriages are then
situated at the inner periphery of the frame, and their threads, com-.
mencing from the circumference, convege towards the centre, where the
lace is formed, which then proceeds to roll itself upon a cylinder or reel.
Two threads placed upon the same disc in their rotation produce a cone,
the base of which is at the disc and the summit upon the central line.
It is this central line to which the crossings are brought. For this
purpose I utilize the free spaces existing between the cones, and I there
arrange metallic bands a, a, directed in the radical direction of the
threads. Each of these bands a is fixed over one side by a hollow tube o
to the inner cylinder, and it carries at the other extremity a square
return piece intended to fix it to the centre of the machine. This band
is twisted with a semi-revolution, and this twisting is for the purpose of
causing a pusher b sliding upon it to make a half turn in order to push
the crossings to the centre. It follows that a little fork f of the pusher
describes a helicoidal surface, which permits it to seize and to return
the lower threads of the crossings. The axes of the bands, instead
of converging towards the centre, are all directed tangentially to an
imaginary cylinder concentric with the axis of the machine. When the
pushers have finished their course towards the centre they are recalled to
their point of repose by the weighted cords.
When the crossings are thus arrived at the centre the lace is manu-
factured, but it is necessary to fix the points, and if their breadth is too
great it should be reduced. The reducing mechanism is composed
of two carriages K and K', which can in sliding in the transverse
slides, v¹, approach towards or separate from the medial line which
the lace follows. This approaching of the slides is produced by the

page_text: they are recalled to their
The carriages each carry a
traction of the jacquard cords u, u¹, and
initial position by the weighted cords t, t¹.
bundle of metal blades 7, 1, forming a sort of comb or fan, upon each of
which a little runner & provided with a pin e slides. The runners are
simultaneously led by forks f, f, which slide upon tringles x, x¹, and are
drawn by the cords of the jacquard. They return to their place by
weighted cords passing over little pulleys. The runners with their
needles or pins effect four rectilinear displacements, which form the four
sides of the rectangle. Each fork carries a claw, which at the two extre-
mities of the road of the Drawing meets with two ears or tippers, into
which the claws alternately hook in order to maintain the comb-bearing
carriage in its position. The ears are united to the levers commanded
by the jacquard, which thus brings about the release at the desired
moment.
I can utilize all the bobbins of the machine for the manufacture either
of one band of lace or of several distinct bands at the same time.
I can dispense with the runners at the crossings, when desirable, by
rendering the guides at the left surface of the pushers moveable, and by
making these guides slide in openings horizontally arranged in two
vertical pieces placed near the centre, as are the pins for the support and
uniting of the guides mentioned above. With this modification the lace
could be reduced at the centre to the desired width.
For the reducing apparatus a simple arrangement can be adopted,
which has the advantage of completely dispensing with the guides at the
left surface and the runner. This arrangement consists in causing the
two functions of the runners and pins to be fulfilled by a system of
moveable needles. The needles are separated into two series acting one
after the other, the needles of each series accomplishing the following
movements, which compose one period of their action, commencing from
the moment when they leave the lace:-1st, they descend sharply on
leaving the meshes; 2ndly, they recoil back, separating from one another,
following the divergent rays arranged in fan shape; 3rdly, they rise in
order to take new crossings; and fourthly, they advance convergently
towards the centre to tighten the crossings. These four movements are
effected very simply, in consequence of the peculiar arrangement of the
needle carriers shewn at Figure 9. Each needle carrier is composed of
three parallel bars or strips. The upper one a is in one piece with the

page_text: needle m, the lower one 6 carrying the talons; c, c, acts as a runner in
the radial slides formed in the machine table; the third and intermediate
one is linked to the other two by connections d, d, and serves as a
commanding rod, either under the action of the jacquard through the
cord f¹, or through the elastic recall cord g¹. A vertical guide h pro-
vided with a slot unites the upper bar with the lower one, so that the
upward and downward movement of the needle is effected at the moment
when the sliding or middle bar is in place at the two extremities of its
course. The four movements necessary to the needles are therefore
produced by this action with the aid of two horizontal tractions.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim, my
improved machinery for the manufacture of lace, substantially as
described and shown in the annexed Drawings, whereby lace is auto-
matically produced.
In witness whereof, I, the said Eugene Malhère, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of August in the
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.
e-year of
EUGÈNE MALHÈRE. (L.S.)
Witness,
CHARLES ARMENGAUD, Jr.,
Civil Engineer,
Paris, Boulevard de Strasbourg, 23.