IMPROVED METHODS AND MECHANICAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR APPLYING CARDBOARD TO THE WEAVING OF FIGURED FABRICS. And for Arranging the Cardboard for this PURPOSE
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Giuseppe Antonio Tremeschini, Mechanician, of
Vicenza, (Venetian Lombardy,) for the Invention of "IMPROVED METHODS
AND MECHANICAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR APPLYING CARDBOARD TO THE WEAVING
OF FIGURED FABRICS. And for Arranging the Cardboard for this PURPOSE,"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Giuseppe Antonio
Tremeschini at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 19th January 1858.
1, GIUSEPPE ANTONIO TREMESCHINI, Mechanician, of Vicenza, (Venetian
Lombardy,) do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVED
METHODS AND MECHANICAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR APPLYING CARDBOARD TO THE
WEAVING OF FIGURED FABRICS, AND FOR ARRANGING THE CARDBOARD FOR THIS
PURPOSE," to be as follows:-
The Invention relates to, ily. substituting for the transverse jacquard cards
longitudinal bands of thin cardboard or stout paper placed side by side; 2ly,
for, the purpose of applying the said bands. substituting for the ordinary.
jacquard apparatus a proper mechanical arrangement; 3ly, employing new
methods and proper mechanical arrangements for the reading and in some
cases for the designing of the pattern, and the perforating of the above-men-
tioned bands of cardboard. The length of each of the said bands depends on
Price Sd

page_text: that of the pattern; they are provided with gurde holes and rows of holes
arranged in compartments, so as to make a row of compartments corresponding
on each of the bands, situated side by side, represent an ordinary jacquard card,
thus allowing of forming any desired combination of pattern.
The reading of a pattern with two or more variations of harness, and
differently colored weft threads for one shed, takes place by an arrangement
consisting of a plate perforated with holes arranged in rows, each of which
rows serve for a corresponding line of squares of the rule paper, each of which
holes of the said standard plate contains at the beginning of the operation a
shot (such as used for shooting); the table bearing the plate is furnished with
a valve apparatus for clearing of their shot the holes corresponding with those
squares of the design upon the rule paper that are not marked with the color
to which the row applies. Part of one end of a proper lever acts on a rack
moving the valve apparatus, whereas the other part of this end acts on the
wires for moving the said valves. The opposite end of this lever is situated
above the design, and serves to the workman for regulating the said opera-
tions. The perforation of the bands of cardboard takes place by means of
proper punches guided by a row of needles corresponding with the rows of
holes of the above-mentioned perforated standard plate, which latter is laid
under the said punches. For patterns with only one color for each shed the
putting upon rule paper and the reading are dispensed with, the clearing of
the holes of the standard plate taking place directly by the superposing and
pressing down thereon of the original design traced on paper or any other
suitable material, with colors properly thickened by means of gum or any other
suitable adhesive substance, so as to cause the required shot to adhere thereto,
and to withdraw them from their holes, thus forming at once a true designing
for the perforation of the bands.
The standard plate may be composed of several pieces, and instead of
forming the design by means of shot, pieces of paper or other fabric suitably
cut out and glued to the surface of the standard plate may be made use of.
The apparatus for applying the perforated bands to the weaving of figured
fabrics is affixed to the loom instead of the ordinary jacquard, and consists of a
perforated cylinder, the length of which is sufficient for carrying side by side
two or more of the perforated bands. The needles with perforated grooves and
proper points turned towards the cylinder are arranged in series or steps on a
suitable grating; small vertical blades furnished at their lower ends with a
hook for the harness cards, and having a spring and a tooth cut out in their
length pay through the perforations of each needle on which they may rest by
the said teeth. The arrangement of the needles, the hooked blades, and the

page_text: grating, dispenses with the griff of the jacquard, by which means the cylinder
and the frame carrying the grating and the needles are the parts receiving an
up and down motion by means of the usual treadle.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Giuseppe Antonio Tremeschini in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 19th July 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GIUSEPPE
ANTONIO TREMESCHINI, Mechancian, of Vicenza, (Venetian Lombardy.) send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of January, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-first year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Giuseppe Antonio Tremeschini, Her special licence that I, the said
Giuseppe Antonio Tremeschini, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said Giuseppe Antonio Tremeschini, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend. within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man,
an Invention for "IMPROVED METHOTS AND MECHANICAL ARRANGEMENTS FOR
APPLYING CARDBOARD TO THE WEAVING OF FIGURED FABRICS, AND FOR ARRANGING
THE CARDBOARD FOR THIS PURPOSE," upon the condition (amongst others) that I,
the said Giuseppe Antonio Tremeschini, my executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar. months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Giuseppe Antonio Tremeschini, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:--
The Invention relates to looms for weaving figured fabrics, and consists in,.
-1ly, substituting for the transverse jacquard cards longitudinal strips of thin;
cardboard or stout paper, placed side by side.

page_text: 2ly, for the purpose of applying the said strips, substituting for the ordinary
Jacquard apparatus a proper mechanical arrangement.
3ly, certain new methods and arrangements for the reading and designing
of the pattern, and the perforating of the above-mentioned strips of card-
board.
The thin cardboard or stout paper which I make use of instead of the
ordinary jacquard cards, and which I call cartoncino, must be of a good
homogenous make, so as to offer the required strength and pliability for taking
without tearing a curve of about one inch of radius. The same is cut in strips
of any desired length and width, and is to be perforated in the manner and by
the arrangements to be described hereafter. In this Specification we will
suppose these strips to be of a width of about four and a half inches, corre-
sponding with the work of about 100 needles, distributed in three series for
each pick, so that in the § 3 the width of the cylinder G will be supposed to
allow of carrying 4 strips of 100 needles each placed side by side, and further,
a small strip for the wires, for showing the colours and variations.
A very
thin metal plate may be substituted for, or such plate may be employed affixed
to the paper itself.
1. I will now describe the apparatus for the perforating of the cartoncino.
In the annexed Drawings, Fig. 1 shows a plan view, Figs. 2 and 2* two longi-
tudinal, vertical, sectional views of the apparatus. In these three Figures
corresponding parts are indicated by the same letters of reference. A is a
steel plate, for the perforation of the strips of cartoncino; B are punches';
C, small iron rods, gliding in the up and down moving cross bar D, in which
they are inserted. One of their ends forms a hook C¹, to each of which is
fixed an india-rubber thread, drawing them towards D, whereas a steel wire a
fixed thereto extends in the contrary direction, the other end of which wire a
is twice bent, so as to form a hook with two angles, which is introduced, and
glides in two holes in the pegs P. The moveable cross-bar D in which the
rods C glide horizontally, and the punches B vertically, receives its motion
from an excentricum Q, and vertical arms R, which excentricum forms the
continuation of the trunnions of the arbor E, on which is fixed the lever M,
from which the entire apparatus receives motion. W is the frame; F, the
strip of cartoncino to be perforated, and which is wound off from F'; F2 is a
cylinder of equal diameter as the cylinder G' of Fig. 3, and provided at its
ends with proper guide pins. Its length is in the present case only about
5 inches, having to bear only one strip of cartoncino, the Drawing representing
an apparatus for 100 punches. The wheel F is provided with the same
quantity of teeth as there are compartments (of three series of holes each,

page_text: and each representing a pick, or corresponding with a card in the ordinary
jacquard), carried by the cylinder F, to the axis of which latter this wheel F
is fixed. F' is an iron bar, having a vertical to-and-fro motion, retained by
and gliding in the grooves F5, F. This bar has a tooth F, by means of which
the bar is lifted up at each time the arm M2 fixed to the axis E acts against
this tooth. at the ascending motion of the lever M, at the same time the wheel
Fis caused to turn for one tooth by the effect of the other tooth m. N is a
plate of a thickness of about one inch, and perforated with a series of rows of
100 holes each. I have a full set of such plates, each of them presenting a
different distance between its rows. The combination of the rows corresponds
with that of the pegs P. underneath the lower or pointed ends P on which
the plate N is situated.
It will be understood that notwithstanding I have indicated in this descrip
tion some dimensions, and shown certain forms and combinations of the above
arrangement, the same may be modified, more or less, according to the work
to be performed.
I will now describe the mode of perforating the strips of cartoncino, in order
to apply afterwards the said perforated strips to the weaving of figured fabrics,
and I will, as an example, describe this perforating for strips of cartoncino to
be employed for the weaving of fabrics, with one colour of weft for each. pick.
The coloured pattern that is to be woven is designed with much gum, glue, or
other sticking material on a sheet of ordinary paper, corresponding in width
with the aggregate width of four plates E (supposing a loom of 400 needles)
whereas its length depends on that of the pattern. This sheet of paper is
then cut in pieces corresponding exactly with the dimensions of the said plates,
a proper distinctive mark being given to each of them. The plate E is placed
on an inclined flat surface or table, provided 'all round with a rim a few inches
in height. I now throw over each plate a quantity of shot, of a size corre-
sponding with that of the holes of the plate, and one shot having thus filled
each of the said holes, the sheet of paper is applied with the gummed or
designed side in the moistened state on the plate, after which the plate is lifted
up from the table at a height sufficient for allowing to those parts of the shot
that would not have come in contact with the gum of the design, and which
consequently did not stick to the paper, to fall out of the holes of the plate,
whereas the remainder of the shot adhering firmly to the paper by the medium
of the gum, thus continue filling the holes of the plate corresponding with the
colours of the design, of which they offer a suitable representation, which may
be easily amended, more or less. by filling in some holes or opening others, as
might be required. The plate being thus transformed in a standard design

page_text: may be employed at once in the apparatus for the perforation of the cartoncino
in the manner as will be described.
An immense quantity of applications may be derived from this principle of
applying, instead of the known design or rule paper, (hitherto made use of for
designing or transferring the pattern to the design paper,) a perforated plate
or any other suitable standard design, such, for instance, as wire cloth, strips
or parts of plates, entirely or partly perforated, and arranged or divided in
suitable squares or other divisions, so as to serve as a standard, by the opening
or closing of certain parts. according to the nature of the pattern. I con-
sequently claim this principle in its fullest extent; while the mechanical
arrangements for making use of such standards for obtaining the perforation
of either ordinary jacquard cards or my cartoncino's may be varied according
to circumstances; and I wish, consequently, that the above described mecha-
nical arrangement be considered solely as an industrial exemplification the
putting into operation of the above principle. Thus, for instance, a design on
gummed or glued paper may be cut out along its outlines, and then applied in
suitable order on the plate N, which latter, in such case, will not require again
to be provided with shot. The operator has to modify suitably the design
thus formed thus, for instance, the piece a, of Fig. 5, is not to be fixed
exactly on the plate N, as would result from Fig. 6; but, on the contrary,
the operator would have to modify somewhat the position of it in the manner
as shown by Fig. 7; besides, if required. for amending the design certain
holes of the plate, more or less, might be opened, by perforating the paper
that closes them, or other holes be closed by glueing paper over them; and
the plate E thus prepared may serve at once for the perforation of the carton-
cino in the same manner as the plate provided with shot; or the operator may
throw shot over the surface opposite to that on which the paper has been
affixed and on lifting the plate up from the table the shot will only remain
in the holes obturated, by having paper affixed on the opposite aperture of
them; any number of copies of the design may thus be obtained with the
utmost facility; an empty plate with its holes closed on one side has only to
be laid against the standard plate, and receive in its holes the shot distributed
in the holes of this standard plate, by throwing over the plates topside down,
while holding them firmly kept together. And in the same manner as when
employing the ordinary rule paper, the performer has in the choice of the
paper to regulate himself on the size and nature of the weft; this in the
present method, a proper choice is to be made in the plates, the distance apart
in the rows of holes of which is to be properly observed.
The perforation of the cartoncino takes place in the following manner:

page_text: The lever M being lowered, the prepared plate E is applied in the apparatus
in such manner that the first row of holes of this plate lays exactly underneath
the line of pegs P. The arm I fixed to the axis E keeps the lever H² lowered,
which latter is fixed to the cross bar H, turning by means of proper trunnions
H, provided below the frame G, which latter carries the row of pointed pegs
P, by means of the two perforated regulating plates G, and which frame is
retained by the axis G, will be raised by the subordinate cross bar H. The
punches B, which, on the lowering of the cross bar D, could not recede,
meeting with the counter-punches C, insert themselves with their lower.or
cutting end in the corresponding punching holes of the plate A, thus perfo-
rating the cartoncino. Supposing the performer had previously, by any suitable
means, withdrawn all the counter-punches C from contact with the heads of
the punches B, then none of these latter would have passed through the
cartoncino, because in meeting this latter they would have yielded to the
resistance offered by it, and would consequently have receded. The two outer
punches corresponding with the holes A, of Fig. 8, are the only ones that
act at each time the lever M is lowered, as they have to form the guide holes
for the strips of cartoncino, which holes correspond with the guide pins of the
cylinder G, Fig. 3. The workman then lifts the lever M,
tricum Qwill cause the arm R, the cross bar D, and its
°
when the excen-
punches B to rise.
tooth F, lifts the
The arm I leaves the lever H, and arriving under the
rod F, the tooth m of which, acting on one of the teeth of the wheel F,
causes this latter, and consequently its cylinder, and the strips of cartoncino,
to advance for one compartment (corresponding with the card of an ordinary
jacquard); after which the catch g keeps the entire in this new position.
The lever H, abandoned by the arm I, causes the cross bar H and the frame
G to be lowered. All the lower ends P2 of the pegs P meeting with the
holes of the plate N enter into them, and thus keep their normal positions;
whereas, those meeting with the shot, paper, or other obturating body, are
obliged to recede. The notch in the lever O is taken hold of by the tooth
of the frame W; the arm T fixed to the frame T is connected to this
lever; the frame T, carried by the trunnions n of the brackets
frame G, has its lower part advanced towards the pegs P; the
fixed by means of its trunnionss to the frame T, in aiding the motion of this
latter, has met with and inserted in the groove b, all the ends of the hooks e,
which were in suitable position; that is to say, all those belonging to those
pegs P, which have inserted themselves with their points P2 in the open holes
of the first row of holes of the plate N. All the points of the hooks e belonging
on the contrary to the pegs corresponding with the remainder of the holes,
. fixed to the
cross bar L,

page_text: viz., those shut up, and which are consequently lifted up, and therefore not
entered in the above mentioned groove, will not come in contact with this
latter, in such manner that none of them will get out of place. All the
counter-punches C drawn by means of the india-rubber threads n, towards
the cross bar D, and held by the threads a, and which, by means of the hook
e, correspond with those pegs P that have inserted themselves in the open holes
of the plate N, and are kept apart from the cross bar L, will be drawn also
towards the hooks e, so that they cannot prevent with their ends to the
subordinate punches B of receding, when, during the lowering of the cross bar
D, these latter insert themselves in the cartoncino; the remainder of the
counter-punches keep their original position." The workman now lowers the
lever M; two periods of action are now to be considered; 1st, period beginning,
from the moment of the impulse till the moment the lower end of the punch
B actually touches the cartoncino; 2nd period, from the moment the punches
begin to perforate the cartoncino, till the lever M is arrived at its lowest
position. 1st period; the lever I leaves F7, which causes m to come under
a new tooth; the arm z of the axis E has begun to come nearer to the lever
O, but without actually touching this latter; 1 has come in actual contact
with the arm 12. 2nd period; the lever 1 acts on the lever H; the cross
bar H lifts the frame G with its accessories. The threads x, attracted by the
bent end H of H, now draw up the respective catches d to which they are
attached, and those catches being inserted in two of the teeth with which the
plate N is provided, laterally in equal number to the number of rows repre-
senting the compartments (jacquard cards) draw this plate forward, the two
catches keeping them in this new position, in which now a fresh row of holes
has presented itself underneath the points P2: the arm Z strikes against and
thus lifts the lever O. The cross bar L has withdrawn from the points e,
leaving them fully free; the pegs P are retained in the normal position by
the effect of their proper weight, and of the pull of the elastic threads d, on
which the cross bar J properly acts.
§ 2. The perforation of the strips of cartoncino required for the weaving of
figured fabrics with several veft colours for each shed, by means of my system
of designing, the pattern being supposed to be for instance of 5 colours, is
represented in the Figures 9, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16, which Figures represent
various views of the apparatus made use of for this object; in these Figures
corresponding parts are indicated by the same letters of reference. Fig. 9
shows a plan view of the apparatus; Fig. 13 is a view from below of the
plate A, of which Fig. 14 is a top, and Fig. 15 a side view, whereas Figs. 12
and 16 represent separate parts of the apparatus. The sketching made on

page_text: design or ruled paper, Figs. 7; 10 and 11, is carried by the small cylinder u;
vis a metal rule, the lower part of which is provided with divisions corre-
ponding with those of the rule paper w, underneath which rule glides in the
supports; the cylinder u is affixed thereto with its trunnions by means of
two elastic bearings for pushing the paper w against the rule ; the upper
part of this rule is provided with teeth according to the same division as the
upper part. B is a trunnion bearing the rule g solidly fixed thereto, and
bearing and guiding the rule m, which latter must be yielding in m³, for being
held back by the two brackets z. between which the same glides; this would
prevent the trunnion B performing the extremely small revolution required, if
the rule was not yielding or pointed in this part it is bent near the upper end
towards m, c, (Fig. 12 and 16.) The end of this lever m, from the side. h,
is shown with five compartments bearing the five colours of the pattern w,
with subdivisions corresponding with the distance of the threads a, underneath
which lays the bent part m. A is a rule retained on the left-hand side
between two plates R, well united together, and laying flush with the rule A,
which latter and most of the parts of the machine is carried by the table F.
over which the same glide to and fro, being held between and directed by the
two plates R. C, C, are two rollers situated underneath the rule A for closing
entirely or partly the opening, of this rule. The rule A being covered by the
perforated plate E, as shown in Fig. 9, this rule may open entirely 5. holes....
of this plate at a time, at least if each of the 5 valves to be spoken of hereafter
be closed; x are 5 india-rubber threads, one end of which is attached to the.
rule A, and the opposite end of the respective valves b, and tending to keep
these latter open.
q are 5 strings of silk or other suitable material, having
one of their ends fixed to the rule A, and the other to the respective valves b,
which latter may be closed by pulling on these strings. n is a toothed rack,
the teeth of which are subdivided exactly according to the same rule as the
holes of the plate E, and which rack is retained on the rule by means of two
broad headed pins q, projecting through two corresponding longitudinal slits;
8, s, are two stops for the lever m, g. It must be observed that instead of 5
valves and their accessories for the use of 5 colours, the apparatus might be
provided with a much larger number so as to allow the use of so many more
colours. In the Drawing the apparatus is shown in the act of reading the
pattern; the plate E, which before beginning the work had the entire of its
holes closed by shot, has already a certain quantity of rows partly deprived
thereof; the plate moves in the direction of the arrow, and two catches act on
the lateral sides of the plate in the same manner as those d of Fig. 2, and
which cause this plate to advance 5 rows of holes at each pull, which motion

page_text: is produced by the hand of the workman at each time this latter has finished
the reading of one line of the design w. The first 5 rows drawn in the
direction of R3 represent the reading of an entire line of the design w; the
second 5 rows show the reading in hand for another line, less 5 squares; the
following rows constantly keep their shot till their turn arrives to be acted
upon. For making use of this machine the workman proceeds in the follow-
ing manner He puts his hand on h so as to cause the thumb to push the
moveable lever m against the fixed lever g, which latter is suitably connected
so as to allow of gliding over it. The lever m is stopped in this moment in
the last tooth (minus 5) of the rule r, and rests on the left-hand side against
the stop S. Between the 5 coloured compartments forming the subdivisions
of the end of the lever from m to h, it is stopped on the said last (minus 5)
compartment corresponding with the colour with which the design is coloured
in that square. The workman lifts up these two levers and carries them to
the right-hand side, stopping on the tooth corresponding with that square
of the design which is situated directly underneath, and which is found to be
the last of the new colour represented; supposing, for instance, that of the five
last squares, the first three are red, and the two last ones yellow, the stopping
takes place on the third tooth met with. The workman from thence, by
means of his thumb, causes the above mentioned lever m to glide against the
lever g, and he carries on the rule r to the required compartment of the red
colour, after which he lowers and enters the lever in the tooth.
By this
operation the joint m, transported underneath the string of the valve
representing the red colour, strikes against this string and forcing it to bend
(see Fig. 15) causes the corresponding valve to be closed; the end of
the lever corresponding underneath with the rack n, has entered in the re-
spective tooth. The workman then without withdrawing the lever m presses
towards the left hand till he meets with the lever s, and by this motion
forces the rack n with the rule A to advance for 3 teeth from right to left,
which 3 teeth correspond with three holes of 5 rows of the plate, underneath
which the said rule is situated with its 5 valves. The workman then performs
again the operations of lifting up the said lever, carrying the same to the
right-hand side stop on the last tooth, cause the compartment of the yellow
colour to pass, lowers the lever, and pushes the same to the left-hand side,
thus finishing the reading of this line of the design. The result will be that
all the shot corresponding with the open valves fall through the holes of the
plate, whereas the remainder keep their respective holes filled. It must be
further observed that the shifting of the two supports f fixed to the table F
depends on the size of the squares of the design to be read. Thus, supposing,

page_text: for instance, these squares to correspond exactly with the breadth of the tecth
of the rack n, it will then be required to put these supports at such a
distance from the centre B that this distance be equal to that between the
rack and this centre. Supposing, on the contrary, the size of these squares
to be exactly one half of those of the teeth of the rack n, then the supports f
have to be brought closer to the centre B, so as to make the distance between
this centre and the rack be the double of it. The plate having thus under-
gone the operation of the reading of the design, the same is applied to the
hereafore described perforating apparatus for the cartoncino.
§ 3. I will now describe the mechanical arrangements I make use of for
applying the perforated strips of cartoncino to weaving. I will suppose for
this part of this Specification to act on a loom of 400 needles and 800 wires
for weaving figured fabrics with several colours, as being one of the most
difficult and complicated, and in order to answer to this arrangement I have
given a width of about 4 inches and a half to each strip of cartoncino. On
the top of a loom with free healds for figured weaving 1 apply, instead of the
ordinary jacquard, the apparatus of which Fig. 3 represents a side elevation
view, Fig. 4 perspective elevation view, of various parts, certain parts being
represented cut off in order to show their respective positions. Fig. 5 is a
plan view of part of the arrangement for the needles, whereas Figs. 6' and 6*
represent two elevation side views of two descriptions of wires, to the lower
end of which the harness is applied in the same manner as to the vertical
wires of an ordinary jacquard. In these Figs., 3, 4, 5, 6, and 6º, corre-
sponding part are indicated by the same letters of reference. A is the fixed
frame of the apparatus, secured in a solid manner to the top of the loom;
B is a moveable frame hanging on the straps or belts C, guided by and
moving up and down by means of the guides A" in the grooves A^, the up-
rights of the frame A. This moveable frame B contains the needles, the
wires, the cylinder round which the perforated strips of cartoncino are applied,
and other accessories. N is a sort of grating formed of suitable longitudinal
and cross bars, leaving between them suitable apertures through which may
glide, suitably distributed, the harness cords fixed to the wires. F are two
solid posts of steel, the tops of which form an incline a, over which glide the
ends of the hangers b, between which latter is inserted the cylinder G, turning,
with its trunnions in suitable bearings in the said hangers b, so as at each
time the moveable frame B descends along the said incline a, cause the
cylinder G to be pushed against the 'obtuse points with which the ends of the
needles are provided. H is a spindle forming fulcrum for a lever H, and
two steel points Hb and He forming a V. The lever H is drawn up by

page_text: means of the spring or elastic part c. of india-rubber or other suitable
material, and drawn down by a second elastic c, connecting the lever H with
the string e, descending to the reach of the hand of the workman. d and d, d,
are stops regulating the length of the motion of the lever H. This arrange-
ment serves for causing the cylinder to rotate according to the will of the
weaver; in the Drawing the same is represented in the state of inaction.
Supposing the workman pulling the string e till the lower end thereof arrives
at f, then the lever Ha, turning round its fulcrum H, will against the stop
d, d, and the opposite or forked end V rising, this will cause its tooth H° to
project a little beyond the upright A, so as when the frame B rises sufficiently
high insert itself between the teeth of the wheel L fixed to the axis of the
cylinder G, the number of teeth of this wheel corresponding with the number
of cartoncino compartments (jacquard cards) represented by the said cylinder
G. Supposing that at the same time by merely pressing on a treadle the
workman has caused. the frame B to rise, then one' of the teeth of the wheel
L will be got hold of by the tooth He, and the cylinder in that very moment
being prevented from rising, will on the contrary be obliged to revolve on its
axis so as to advance for one tooth only, corresponding with one entire car-
toncino compartment (jacquard card), but be prevented turning any further
by the effect of a tooth with which the lower end of a spring M, fixed with
its upper end in B, is provided, which spring during the revolving of the
cylinder G has yielded for a moment, but now inserts itself between the teeth
of the wheel L. It will be observed that during the lowering of the frame B
the wheel L and the cylinder G are both prevented from revolving, because in
that case the tooth He finding itself in their way, the frame B is obliged to
recede, the lever H, which during the ascending motion of the frame acted in
the direction of the solid stop d, d. during the descending motion of this frame,
acts on the contrary in the direction of the yielding stop e, e. If, afterwards,
the workman should require to turn the cylinder G in the opposite direction
of that just described, he will have to fix the ring with which the lower end of
the string e is provided to a nail g, in consequence of which it will then no
more be the tooth H", which, in rising the frame B, will give rise to the
rotation of the wheel L and the cylinder G, but this rotation in tlie same
direction as described for the tooth H will take place on the contrary by
means of the tooth H on lowering the frame B; E is the iron grating,
composed of two moveable frameworks P and Q, suitably assembled, each of
them formed of three parallel iron rods Q1, QQ, and P¹; P2, P3; for plain
weaving three cross rods only. might suffice. This double jointed grating serves
for carrying the 400 needles g; g², disposed by steps in three rows or series;

page_text: and at the same time for moving by means of the teeth K of the shaft O and
the lever I the 800 wires or hooks..m and m', so as to allow, one half of them
to work simultaneously, in such manner that, for instance, the even series of
these wires have to perform a certain portion of the work which the odd series
afterwards do in the same manner... A string i brings the lever I in connection
with the small supplementary machine moved by the second treadle, and
draws this lever to the left-hand side, .whereas a spring carries it back to the
original position; g', g2, g, represent the three rows of needles, each of which
is made of a long strip of thin sheet iron, the two longitudinal sides of which
have been turned upwards, so as to form a small gutter, whereas one end is
made to a small stem or tongue, which is to be inserted in one of the holes
with which a metal plate, R fixed to the frame B is provided, so as to allow
the point of this tongue to project against the cartoncino laid over the
cylinder G. These needles are distributed in three series or echelons on the
grating E, P, Q, each series having a different length as required by the
arrangement of the grating. The needles of. the lower echelon g' are the
shortest, those, of the echelon gare, somewhat longer, and those of the upper
echelon gare 'the longest; each of the needles g' is provided with two
longitudinal slits rand s, in the slit r is inserted, the wire m' 6 (No. 3 of the
odd series of wires), whereas in the slit s is inserted the wire m 5), (No. 3 of
the even series of wires). Each of the needles g2 (those of the second echelon)
is provided with three slits, t, u,.z. the latter slit z being longer than the two
others, so as to allow of inserting in this slit the two already mentioned
wires m' 6 and m 5, while in the slits and u are respectively inserted the
wires m 4 and m 3, in the same manner as those m' 6 and m 5 pass through
the slits of the needle g'. Each of the needles g" of the third echelon is pro-.
vided like the needles with one long slit n, in which pass the four wires
m² 6, m 5, m 4, and m 3, and with two short slits o and q for the wires m¹ 2
and m 1. We will call the wires m those of the even; and the wires m¹ those.
of the odd series. Figs. 6 and 6 represent two forms of these wires or hooks;
the wire, Fig. 6, is made of a thin, slip of plate-iron, from which is cut out a
longitudinal shred y, which is kept remaining to the remainder of the strip,
and is suitably hardened so as to act as a spring; v is a notch for the lifting.
of the wire, and y' a hole for passing through the harness cord. Fig. 6 shows
another form of wire made from a piece of flattened wire bent round on both
ends, one endy forming spring, and the other end y' a hook to which the
harness cords are attached; in the long branch y² a notch is. cut out for.
lifting wire; the notch v of the series m¹ 6 and m. 5. are situated somewhat
lower than those of the series m¹ 2 and m 1. This difference puts the wires

page_text: and the needles in suitable relative positions, while the wires may fall down
all to the same horizontal plan, viz., that formed by the grating N, as shown
in the Drawing. In Fig. 3 the frame is not shown in its position of rest, but
it is supposed, on the contrary, it has to descend for a couple of inches more.
The hollow cylinder G made of any suitable metal is perforated with holes
arranged in exact concordance with those of the plate R, and of the cartoncino
which is on the surface of this cylinder; this cylinder G turns with its
trunnions in proper bearings in the hanging or swinging frame b, h, which
latter is kept at proper distance apart from the frame B by the effect of a
spring T pushing against the cross bar T, by which contrivance the cylinder is
consequently kept at the required distance apart from the needles. In Fig. 3
the cylinder is represented ready for advancing against the needles by the
hangers gliding over the incline a. Now, let it be supposed for a moment,
the cartoncino to have been taken off from the cylinder so as to lay bare the
holes with which its surface is provided, it will then be permitted to the
needles of entering with the blunt points of their projecting tongues in these
holes; the string i keeps the lever I drawn to the left-hand side, the lower
tooth pushes the lower half of the grating E towards the right-hand side,
whereas the upper tooth k pushes the upper half of this grating towards the
left-hand side, the cross bars Q. Q, Q', prevent the three series of odd wires
to be arrested with their notches v on the edges of the slits of their respective
needles, in whatever position they may be, the cross bars P1, P2, P', on the
contrary not acting on the even rows of wires, allow them of catching with
their notches the ends of the slits of the respective needles, in the manner
as shown in the Drawing. Supposing, on the contrary, the cylinder G to be
provided with the required number of strips of cartoncino perforated according
to the requirements of the design, which strips are guided over the surface of
the cylinder by means of the guide pins U, it will be evident that the
springs of the three rows, of odd wires will push the needles towards the
cylinder G, all the time the frame B being lowered acts on them, and con-
sequently all the needles that will meet with holes in the cartoncino will enter
into these holes, whereas all the needles which meet with the full parts of
this cartoncino will be stopped, and will be kept in this position all
-the time the hangers b glide over the incline a. The three series of odd
wires remain in the position here above indicated, permanently independent
of the needles, that is to say, resting on the grating N. All the wires of the
three even series taking into the needles corresponding with the holes of the
cartoncino remain hanging with their notches on these needles, and will
consequently on the ascending of the frame B be lifted up with this frame;

page_text: whereas the wires of the even series inserted in these needles which did not
correspond with holes in the cartoncino, and which by striking against the
plain surface of this latter did consequently remain behind the needles projected
in the holes, will be prevented from remaining with their notches on these
needles, and will thus, during the ascending motion of the frame B, remain in
the depressed position similar to the odd wires. Z is a cross bar fixed in the
upright of the frame B, for preventing the needles being disturbed in the
descending motion of the said frame B; V, V, are two thin rollers or elastic
plates fixed to the hangers b, and serving for suitably guiding the cartoncino
over the cylinder G; the cartoncino is indicated by red lines in the various
Figures, and moves in the direction indicated by the arrows, one end winding
off from a roller and the other winding itself on another. The mode of sub-
dividing a compartment (corresponding with a jacquard card) in several strips
of cartoncino acting side by side, has not only the advantage of obviating any
hygrometrical disturbances, but also allows the workman to suitably vary the
patterns by shifting the relative position of the perforated strips of cartoncino.
In the Figs. 17, 18, and 19 is shown in actual working size a modification
of certain parts of the apparatus represented in the Figs. 3, 4, 5, viz., of those
parts serving for bringing the strips of cartoncino in contact with the needles;
Fig. 17 is a side elevation view, and Fig. 18 a front or longitudinal elevation
view, of this modified apparatus; in these Figures certain parts are shown in
part only. Fig. 19 is a sectional view over the line Y, Z, of Fig. 17. B are
two toothed wheels, one on each end of the apparatus, and turning with their
trunnions e in the brackets a fixed to the hangers b', the latter corresponding
with those of Fig. 3; A1 and A2 are two cross bars, having the length and
taking about the place of the cylinder G in Fig. 3, over which bars pass the
strips of cartoncino, shown in red colour in Figs. 17 et 18; each end of these
bars turns by means of proper trunnions in the wheels B, the left-hand
trunnion of A' and the right-hand trunnion of A2 projecting, so that they may
be firmly connected to and are actuated by two arms D', D2, so as to keep
that face of each bar which is provided with a point or knob q turned towards
the cartoncino, which latter is guided by two rollers E turning in the brackets
a. G is a main arbor, receiving a proper revolving motion by means of a
plate L provided with four. studs, and on which act two vertical catches, that
is to say, in the same manner as the motion is given to the four-sided cylinder
of an ordinary jacquard by means of horizontal catches. This arbor G is
provided at each end, close to its trunnion, with a wheel, provided with the
same quantity of teeth as the wheels B in which they gear; on the right-hand
side this arbor projects beyond the hangers b', and is provided with the free

page_text: pulley H for effectuating in a similar manner, as in the ordinary jacquard, the
retrogression of the cartoncinos at the required moment for weaving, with
several weft colours. R represents the plate R of Fig. 3, through which
project the tongues m of the three rows of needles g', g, g, (Fig. 3), and
r is another metal plate, provided with holes corresponding in size and arrange-
ment with those of the perforated cartoncino and of the plate R; n is a
cross bar fixed with its extremities in the brackets a, to which bar is fixed the
plate r. The upper end of each of the arms D1 and D2 is provided with a
longitudinal slitt, in which are inserted the studs s fixed in, the hangers b',
thus allowing the motion of the said arms.
Before describing the mode of acting of this apparatus, I wish to observe
that instead of the lateral guide holes with which when employing the
apparatus of Fig. 3 the cartoncinos are to be provided, I now have rows
of holes (at about ½ of an inch distance between the holes), one row 'for each
compartment (jacquard card), the rows are marked 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, in Fig. 18;
each of the bars A1 and A2 is provided with a row of conical points or knobs q,
corresponding with the holes of the cartoncino, in which they are to insert
themselves at the proper moment. In lifting the frame B (of Fig. 3) to
which the apparatus of Figs. 17 and 18 is supposed to be applied, by the
hangers b' turning in U (b, a, of Fig. 3), the upper pin g' is taken hold of by
a vertical catch in the manner as the studs of the four-sided cylinder in an
ordinary jacquard is taken hold of by horizontal catches, which vertical catch
is fixed to any suitable part of the frame; this pin g' is consequently carried
down to its lowest position, viz., that of the pin in Fig. 18, thus making the
arbor G and wheel turn for one quarter of a revolution, and causing likewise
the wheels B to revolve, whereby the bars A' and A shift their position, viz.,
the bar A is depressed and recedes towards G, thereby withdrawing the row
of knobs q' from the row of guide holes of the cartoncino marked 2 in Fig. 18,
whereas the bar A3 advancing towards we, and moving upwards, remains
inserted in the row of guide holes 3, and as the strips of cartoncino, winding
themselves off at one end p from a roller, and winding themselves up at the
opposite end p' on another roller, are thus always suitably kept stretched over
the rollers E, the plate r, and the bars A' and A2; the said strips will thus be
moved forward in the direction from-p towards p' by the effect of the rows of
knobs q and q³ entering in and withdrawing successively from the rows of
guide holes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, between which rows of guide holes are situated the
compartments or rows of holes for the tongues of the needles to act on. By
depressing the hanging frame b' the strips of cartoncino will be moved
in the contrary direction, viz., from p' towards p. The apparatus of

page_text: Figs. 17, 18, and 19. shows also another mode as that of the Figs. 3, 4, 5,
for causing the tongues of the needles to enter in the compartment holes
of the strips of cartoncino. K is a bracket fixed to, the middle part
of the lower cross-bar M of the hanging frame b¹, and carrying a short
roller turning by means of trunnions Q in the bracket K. P is a
solid standard fixed to the top of the loom, provided with a stud v,
round which a small lever R' may turn, which lever is pushed towards the
vertical position by a spring h, when the frame B (Fig. 3) has been so far
depressed that all the wires are resting on the grate N, and the needles are
thus liberated, from the notches of their corresponding wires, in that moment
the roller Q. will be advanced on the inclined side P in which moment the
surface of the cartoncino begins to touch the ends of the tongues of the
needles m, Figs. 17 & 3, while the bracket K having, during its depression,
touched the inclined top R of the arm R', keeps this latter inclined to the
left-hand side; the frame b¹ being further depressed to its lowest position,
the roller Q has run down along the side P³ of the standard P, by which about
one-half of the length of the teeth m is entered in the holes of the cartoncino,
while the arm R¹ could not assume again the vertical position, the roller Q
passing in the corresponding curved notch X of this arm R'; when afterwards
the frame b begins again to rise, the roller Q meets with the prominent side
of the arm R, and then the advancing of the cartoncino on the needles is
completed it will be observed that as the cartoncino is obliged to keep this
latter position during the entire time the roller Q glides over the side of R',
this will prevent those needles that had been driven backwards to meet with
the notches of the corresponding wires, and that consequently none of the
wires which do not correspond with needles entered in holes of the cartoncino
can be lifted up.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
putting the same into practical effect, I claim,-
1°, employing, instead of the ordinary transverse jacquard cards, longi-
tudinal strips of suitable thin cardboard or stout paper, which strips I call
cartoncinos.
2ly, the method of transferring the design or pattern to a plate or other
suitable surface provided with regular perforations, so as to cause this plate or
other suitable surface to serve as a standard for forming copies and modifica-
tions of the design, and for the perforation of the cartoncino.
3ly, the mechanical arrangements described for the perforation of the
cartoncinos, either for weaving with one colour of weft for each shed, or with
several colours.

page_text: 4ly, the apparatus for using the perforated strips of cartoncino to weaving."
and the application of this apparatus instead of the ordinary jacquard to looms
for weaving figured fabrics.
I would observe that I do not limit myself to the precise details herein-
before described, as they may be modified without departing from the principle
of the Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Giuseppe Antonio Tremeschini, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, the Seventeenth day of July, One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight,
Witness,
J. SOUTH.
GIUS. ANT. TREMESCHINI. (L.S.)