IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PRODUCTION OF SURFACE FINISH TO CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF FABRICS COMPOSED OF WORSTED, COTTON, OR SILE, OR COMBINATIONS THEREOP
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James William Crossley, of Brighouse, in the Parish
of Halifax, in the County of York, Dyer and Stuff Finisher, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PRODUCTION OF SURFACE FINISH TO
CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF FABRICS COMPOSED OF WORSTED, COTTON, OR SILE,
OR COMBINATIONS THEREOP."
Sealed the 25th March 1854, and dated the 29th December 1853.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James William Crossley
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
29th December 1853.
I, JAMES WILLIAM CROSSLEY, of Brighouse, in the Parish of Halifax, in
the County of York, Dyer & Stuff Finisher, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PRODUCTION OF SURFACE FINISH
TO CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF FABRICS COMPOSED OF WORSTED, COTTON, OR SILK, OR
COMBINATIONS THEREOF," to be as follows:-
The Invention relates to finishing fabrics, such as moreen and others, com-
posed of worsted, cotton, silk, or combinations thereof, which in the finishing
process have heretofore had produced on one surface thereof an effect com-
monly called "watering," and sometimes "moiré antique" (the other side being
left plain). In producing which effect, it is usual, first, to double the fabric so
as to bring the two portions of the outer surface together, and then to lay such

page_text: doubled fabric in folds with a layer of paper board between each fold. Extra
thicknesses of paper and heated plates being applied between each length or
piece of fabric thus doubled & folded, when by subjecting the same to con-
siderable pressure, the surfaces of fabric in contact produce on each other the
effect before referred to, whilst the surfaces of fabric next the paper boards
remain plain. And the present improvements consist in producing such surface
effect called "watering," or "moiré antique," on both sides or surfaces of the
fabric; and this I accomplish by omitting to use the paper boards in the folds
of the fabric, & allowing all the surfaces of the fabric at the different folds
of the piece to be in contact when the lengths or pieces of fabric are being
pressed between hot plates.
I obtain uniformity to all the folds of the pieces of fabric to be operated on
by enclosing rods or bars at each fold of the fabric, the bars being retained
correctly in position during the folding by suitable guaging bars or frames.
Short pieces of fabric, similar to that being treated, are applied over the
two outer folds forming the ends of each piece or length of fabric, in order that
the effect desired may be also obtained at those parts.
Before the pieces are subjected to pressure, the rods used to aid the correct
folding are withdrawn.
Suitable stiffening matter. inay be used to stiffen the pieces when required,
as heretofore.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James. William Crossley in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 29th June 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
WILLIAM CROSSLEY, of Brighouse, in the Parish of Halifax, in the County of
York; Dyer and Stuff Finisher, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-ninth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in the seventeenth year of
-Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said James William Crossley, Her special licence that I, the said James
-William Crossley, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
I; the said James William Crossley, my exccutors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might

page_text: make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE PRODUCTION OF SURFACE FINISH TO CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF FABRICS
COMPOSED OF WORSTED, COTTON, OR SILK, OR COMBINATIONS THEREOF," upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said James William Crossley, by an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James William Crossley, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the fol-
lowing statement thereof (that is to say):
The Invention relates to finishing fabrics, such as moreen and others, com-
posed of worsted, cotton, silk, or combinations thereof, which in the "finishing"
process have heretofore had produced on one surface thereof an effect com-
monly called "watering," and sometimes "moiré antique," whilst the other
side or surface of such fabrics has been left plain. In producing this effect on
the one surface of such fabrics, it is usual first to double the fabric, so as to
bring the two portions intended as the outer surface thereof together, and then
to lay such doubled fabric in folds with a layer of paper board between each
fold, with extra thicknesses of paper and heated plates between the pieces or
lengths of fabric thus doubled and folded. The lengths of fabric thus prepared
with a hot plate or hot plates between each length or piece, are then subjected
to the action of a powerful press, when the surfaces of fabric in contact
produce on each other the effect before referred to, whilst the other surface of
the fabric, or that next the paper boards, remains plain. And my present
improvements consist in producing such surface effect called "watering," or
"moiré antique," on both sides or surfaces of the fabric; and this I accomplish
by omitting to use the paper boards in the folds of the fabric, and allowing all
the surfaces of the fabric at the different folds of the piece to be in contact
when the lengths or pieces of fabric are being pressed between hot surfaces.
I obtain uniformity to all the folds of the pieces of fabric to be operated on
during the folding, by enclosing rods or bars at each fold of the fabric, the bars
being retained correctly in position during the folding, by suitable gnaging
bars or frames.
Before the pieces of fabric are subjected to pressure, these rods used to aid
the correct folding of the fabric are withdrawn.

page_text: Short pieces of fabric, similar to that being treated, are applied over the two
outer folds forming the ends of each piece or length of fabric, in order that
the effect desired may be also obtained at those parts; and such surface effect
will be obtained to both sides of fabric whenever more than two thicknesses of
fabric are pressed together between heated surfaces.
Suitable stiffening matter may be used to stiffen the pieces when required, as
heretofore.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and the means of
carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that what I claim is,
the producing on both sides or surfaces of certain descriptions of fabrics com-
posed of worsted, cottou, or silk, or combinations thereof, the surface finish
commonly called "watering," and also "moiré antique," as herein explained.
In witness whereof, I, the said James William Crossley, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of June, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
Witness,
JAMES WILLIAM CROSSLEY. (L.S.)
WILLIAM BROOKES,
Patent Agent,
73, Chancery Lane,
London.