IMPROVEMENTS IN SOLITAIRES, SLEEVE LINKS, CUFF LINKS, COLLAR AND SHIRT STUDS AND OTHER LIKE DRESS FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS
Year: 1885

page_text: I, HENRY OWEN of Great Hampton Street, Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Manufacturing Jeweller-do hereby declare the nature of said inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SOLITAIRES, SLEEVE LINKS, CUFF LINKS, COLLAR
AND SHIRT STUDS AND OTHER LIKE DRESS FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS, to be
as follows:
My invention relates to solitaires, sleeve links, and other like dress fastenings,
and ornaments composed essentially of a fixed back and a movable front, the back
part consisting of a hollow stem or shank with an ordinary convex back, while the
front part consists of a jointed or pivoted head turning upon the suminit of a'
sliding stem which works telescopically within the hollow stem of the back part--
A coiled spring gives the return movement to the front part after its release as
hereinafter described.
By my improvements the head of the front part is capable of lying in the same
axial line or nearly so as the stem upon which it turns, and the said head is
retained in its vertical position, for its attachment to a garment by the tension of
the coiled spring.
In constructing a collar stud or other like dress fastening according to my
invention, the head of the front part is pinned or pivoted on its underside to the
summit of a stem, which works or slides within the hollow stem on the back part,
and at the terminal end of the stem is an enlargement or collar upon which the
lower end of the coiled spring seats itself—The hollow.stem of the back part is also
provided at its mouth end with an internal collar against which the coiled spring
abuts The said spring being enclosed or compressed between the two collars
aforesaid on the drawing out of the stem for tilting the head-The underside of
the head is provided with a lining or disc pierced with a long slot hole, through
which the stem works-This slot determines the direction of motion of the
turned head.
To connect the collar stud or other fastener to an article of dress, tilt the head
into a vertical position by drawing out or elongating the stem of the front part
and thus compressing the spring between its end and the collar within the hollow
stem of the back part-The pulling action of the spring retains the head in its
nearly vertical position, in consequence of the lower edge of the said head lying

page_text: within a groove or notch crossing the top end of the hollow stem-When the head
is in this position, it is readily passed through the button holes of a garment and
the parts of the garment, fastened together by the turning down of the head, which
when released is drawn and held upon the top of the hollow stem in a horizontal
position.
.
The affixing in position of the movable head of the front part may be effected
without employing a coiled spring, by slitting the side of the hollow stem of the
back part, into a tongue like catch which engages at the back of the collar of the
stem of the front part, when the said head is closed or in its fastened position.
The head when drawn out from the stem and turned into a vertical position, it
is retained in that position by a spring fixed under the shell of the head. This
spring acts and presses upon the angles of a square axis carried by the stem.
Although I have described that the front part of the solitaire is movable, and the
back fixed, yet the same result may be attained by making the back movable and
the front fixed.
The hollow stem and the fixed stem which works in the hollow stem may be
made elliptical, square or other form in cross section as may be desired.
HENRY OWEN.
By Henry Skerrett,
6; Livery Street, Birmingham,
Agent to the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in Solitaires, Sleeve Links, Cuff Links, Collar
and Shirt Studs, and other like Dress Fastenings and
Ornaments.
I, HENRY OWEN of Great Hampton Street, Birmingham in the County of
Warwick Manufacturing Jeweller, do hereby declare the nature of said invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SOLITAIRES, SLEEVE LINKS, CUFF LINKS, COLLAR AND
SHIRT STUDS AND OTHER LIKE DRESS FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS," and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to solitaires, sleeve links, and other like dress, fastenings
and ornaments composed essentially of a fixed back and a movable front, the back
part consisting of a hollow stem or shank with an ordinary convex back, while the
front part consists of a jointed or pivoted head turning upon the summit of a
sliding stem which works telescopically within the hollow stem of the back part.
A coiled spring gives the return movement to the front part after its release as
hereinafter described.
By my improvements the head of the front part is capable of lying in the same
axial line or nearly so as the stem upon which it turns, and the said head is retained
in its vertical position, for its attachment to a garment by the tension of the coiled
spring.
In constructing a collar stud or other like dress fastening according to my
invention, the head of the front part is pinned or pivoted upon its underside to the
summit of a stem, which works or slides within the hollow stem on the back part,
and at the terminal end of the stem is an enlargement or collar upon which the
lower end of the coiled spring seats itself. The hollow stem of the back part is
also provided at its mouth end with an internal collar against which the coiled
spring abuts. The said spring being enclosed or compressed between the two
collars aforesaid on the drawing out of the stem for tilting the head. The under-
side of the head is provided with a lining or disc pierced with a long slot hole,
through which the stem works. This slot determines the direction of motion of the
head.
To connect the collar stud or other fastener to an article of dress, tilt the head
into a vertical position by drawing out or elongating the stem of the front part,
and thus compressing the spring between its end and the collar within the hollow
stem of the back part. The pulling action of the spring retains the head in its
nearly vertical position, in consequence of the lower edge of the said head, lying
within a groove or notch crossing the top end of the hollow stem. When the
head is in this position, it is readily passed through the button holes of a garment,
and the parts of the garment fastened together by the turning down of the head,
which when released is drawn and held upon the top of the hollow stem in a
horizontal position.

page_text: f
The affixing in position of the movable head of the front part may be effected
without employing a coiled spring, by slitting the side of the hollow stem of the
back part, into a. tongue like catch which engages at the back of the collar of, the
stem of the front part, when the said head is closed or in its fastened position.
The head when drawn out from the stem and turned into a vertical position, it
is retained in that position by a spring fixed under the shell of the hand. This
spring acts and presses upon the angles of a square axis carried by the stem.
Although I have described that the front part of the solitaire is movable, and
the back fixed, yet the same result may be attained by making the back movable
and the front fixed.
1
.
The hollow stem and the fixed stem which works in the hollow stem may be
made elliptical, square or other form in cross section as may be desired.
I will now proceed to describe with reference to the accompanying Drawing the
manner in which the same is to be performed.
Figure 1 is a side elevation, and figure 2 is a longitudinal vertical section of a
collar stud constructed according to my invention; the head or front of the stud
being in its normal or turned down position, as when in use. Figure 3 is a like
view as figure 1 with the stem withdrawn, and the head tilted and held in nearly a
vertical position with respect to the stem, for readily passing the said head through
the button hole or holes of a garment. Figure 4 is a longitudinal vertical section
of figure 3, and figure 5 is a back view and figure 6 is a front view of the said stud
when its head or movable front part is in the position as represented in the said
figures 3. Figure 7. is the fixed back part and hollow neck, wherein the stem
carrying the movable head slides telescopically. Figure 9 is a spring, and figure 10
is the underside of the head.
The same letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in figures 1 to 10
both inclusive.
a is the head or front part, pivoted or turning hinge wise upon the summit or
upper end of a rod 6 with a collar or piston like end b², which works telescopically
within the hollow stem c² of the fixed back part c. 63 is the pin or axis upon which
the head a turns as a fulcrum, when the said head is required to change its plane or
position, on connecting the stud to an article of dress. a² is a metal disc or lining
piece pierced with a cross slot hole a³, wherein the upper end of the rod b works,
on the head changing its position. d is a coiled spring enclosed between the
collar 63 of the rod b and the partially closed end or collar c³ of the hollow stem c³.
c' is a rut or groove formed along the top of the end of the stem c² wherein the
turned down edge of the head engages, and is there held by the pressure or pulling
action of the spring.
To place the head in the position figure 3, draw outward the stem, and at the
same time tilt or turn the head upon its joint, and on being liberated, the pressure
or pulling action of the spring forces the extreme edge of the head into one of the
ruts c, which keeps or retains the head in its semi-vertical position, so as to be
readily passed through the button hole or holes of a garment, and the said parts of
the garment fastened or connected together or the stud attached by first slightly
raising or pulling outwards the stem, and then turning the head horizontally, and
when liberated the said head is drawn or held upon the top of the stem in a
horizontal position as represented in figure 1.
In figure 11 the stud is turned round or reversed, so as to make the movable part
the back and the other or fixed part the front of the said stud.
Figure 12 represents a modification of my invention wherein the movable head
and stem of the one part, is retained in its fastened or unfastened position by a
spring tongue, preferably formed out of the sides of the hollow stem.
Figure 13 is
the movable part drawn out with its head tilted, and figure 14 is a vertical section
of figure 12 taken through the fixing or retaining tongue.
a is the head, b is the rod or stalk with an enlarged end 62 and an inclined
shoulder b c is the fixed back part with a spring tongue c" formed from its

page_text: stem. This tongue presses upon the enlarged end 6 of the stalk 6 when in the
open position as represented in figure 13; but when in the closed position figures 12
aud 14, the end of the tongue engages in front of the shoulder, so as to retain and
keep the head in position. The head when in its open position may be retained
open by a flat spring on the underside of the head pressing upon an angular part
on the axis upon which it turns.
In figure 15 the head is made to lie in the same axial line as the stem or stalk
upon which it turns.
By my invention, solitaires, sleeve links, collar and shirt studs and other similar
dress fastenings and ornaments are made without detachable parts, consequently
there is no liability of any of the said parts becoming lost, as is common with like
dress fastenings of the ordinary construction.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
First. Improvements in solitaires, sleeve-links, cuff-links, collar and shirt studs
and other like dress fastenings and ornaments consisting of a combined tilting or
turning head, jointed upon the summit of a movable stem of the one part; which
said stem slides telescopically within a hollow stem of a fixed back part, to allow
the head to turn upon its joint in changing the plane of its direction for fastening
or unfastening. The drawing out front part being retained in position by a spring
interposed between the partially closed end of the hollow stem of the back part
and a collar on the end of the sliding stem of the front part; also the retaining
notch or notches on the top of the hollow stem, wherein the edge of the movable
head seats itself when open The stud or other dress fastening being constructed
and working in the manner and for the purpose substantially as described and
illustrated in figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 of the accompanying Drawing; also the
modification figure 11 as set forth.
•
Secondly-Retaining or fixing in two positions, fastened and unfastened,
sliding or drawing out stems of solitaires, sleeve-links, collar studs and other like
dress fastenings and ornaments, by means of a spring tongue, preferably made out
of the metal or side of the hollow stem of the fixed or back part, substantially as
described and set forth in figures 12, 13, 14 and 15; also the modification of
making the head lie parallel to the stem as set forth in figure 15.
Dated this nineteenth day of Aurenot 1885
Dated this nineteenth day of August 1885.
HENRY OWEN.
By Henry Skerrett,
6, Livery Street, Birmingham,
Agent to the Applicant.