IMPROVEMENTS IN JACQUARD APPARATUS, AND IN THE METHOD OF OPERATING THEREWITH
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Irving, of Barnsley, in the County of York,
Manager, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN JACQUARD APPARATUS,
AND IN THE METHOD OF OPERATING THEREWITH."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Irving at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 20th December 1880.
JAMES IRVING, of Barnsley, in the County of York, Manager.
"IMPROVEMENTS
IN JACQUARD APPARATUS, AND IN THE METHOD OF OPERATING THEREWITH."
My Invention relates to the jacquard apparatus employed in the weaving of
goods which are produced with figured designs or patterns as is well understood,
and particularly to the cases wherein it is necessary to make changes in the pattern
during the weaving, as, for example, when weaving goods having end borders or
figured centres, or both. With the ordinary arrangements at the times when the
changes have to be effected the set of cards in use is removed and replaced by
another set. According to my Invention I, in the first place, apply a supplementary
or second apparatus to the loom, and I mount the additional set of cards upon the
cylinder of this second apparatus, and I arrange for such apparatus to be set in
action at the times when the change has to be effected. To facilitate description
I will suppose that the article to be woven is formed with a centre figure or design.
I connect the mails for all the warp ends which are woven into the central design
with the needles in the second apparatus as well as with certain of the needles in
the ordinary or main apparatus. When the weaving of the central design is to be
commenced I lower a plate or guard in front of such of the needles in the main
apparatus as are connected with the mails of the ends which are required for the
central design, so that the said needles are thrown out of action, or other arrange-
ments are provided for drawing or moving and holding back the needles. The
second apparatus is now set in action by moving a sliding clutch so as to engage
with the boss of a lever which gives motion to the said apparatus or by other
suitable means, and the weaving of the central design is then commenced.

page_text: According to a further improvement I punch or perforate the cards with two or
more sets of holes, and I arrange the "cylinder" to slide in the direction of its
axis so that either or any one of the sets of holes can be brought into line with the
needles. In the case of the employment of two sets of holes I punch or perforate
the cards with two sets of holes, the vertical rows of one set alternating with the
vertical rows of the other set. By way of example I will say that one set may be
arranged to be used in weaving the side borders and central part of a design, and
the other set to be used in the weaving of the cross or end borders. The apparatus
and arrangement first described may be used in the weaving of the said cross
borders, but I prefer to use the sliding cylinder for that purpose. In the production
of goods having cross or end borders or designs running across the web as well as
central designs, or whenever considered to be desirable, the two arrangements may
be used together, and also the sliding cylinder may be used in the weaving of
central designs or be otherwise used than in the weaving of cross or end borders.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said James Irving in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 20th June
1881.
JAMES IRVING, of Barnsley, in the County of York, Manager. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN JACQUARD APPARATUS, AND IN THE METHOD OF OPERATING THEREWITH."
My Invention relates to the jacquard apparatus employed in the weaving of goods
which are produced with figured designs or patterns as is well understood, and
particularly to the cases wherein it is necessary to make changes in the pattern
during the weaving, as for example, when weaving goods having end borders or
figured centres, or both. With the ordinary arrangements, at the times when
the changes have to be effected, the set of cards in use is removed and replaced by
another set. According to my Invention I, in the first place, apply a supplementary
or second apparatus to the loom, and I mount the additional set of cards upon
the cylinder of this second apparatus, and I arrange for such apparatus to be
set in action at the times when the change has to be effected. To facilitate
description I will suppose that the article to be woven is formed with a centre
figure or design. I connect the mails for all the warp ends which are woven into
the central design with the needles in the second apparatus as well as with certain
of the needles in the ordinary or main apparatus. When the weaving of the central
design is to be commenced I put out of action such of the needles in the main
apparatus as are connected with the mails of the ends which are required for the
central design. The second apparatus is now set in action, and the weaving of the
central design is then commenced. According to a further improvement I punch
or perforate the cards with two or more sets of holes, and I arrange the cylinder to
slide in the direction of its axis, so that either or any one of the sets of holes can
be brought into line with the needles. In order that my Invention may be fully
understood I will refer to a Sheet of Drawings which I have attached hereto. In the
said Drawings Fig. 1 is illustrative of the manner in which I employ two sets of
jacquard apparatus in connection with one loom in accordance with the first part
of my Invention, the ordinary parts of the apparatus and of the loom not necessary
to the proper understanding of my Invention not being represented in the Drawings.
In the said Fig. A represents the ordinary apparatus; B, the additional apparatus;
and C, a portion of woven fabric. To facilitate the description I will suppose that
the said fabric is a rectangular drugget or other article which is to be woven with
5 a central design indicated by d, a plain or ornamental ground e, side borders f, f,
and cross or end borders which do not appear in the Drawings. The mails are
indicated by the lines g, h, i, but to avoid confusion no attempt has been made to
indicate the number the of mails. The mails g, g, operate on the ends which are
lifted for the weaving of the borders, and these mails are connected with a set of
needles at k, which needles are operated by a set of border pattern cards. The
mails h operate on the ends which are woven into the central design, and these
mails are connected with a set of needles at 7, and also with the needles in the
additional apparatus B, the connecting cords being indicated by the full lines.
The mails i operate on the ends which are lifted to form the ground pattern, and are
5 not woven either into the side borders or into the central design, and these mails
are connected by cords, indicated by dotted lines, with a set of needles at m. Above
the needles is suspended a plate o, which can be lowered by means of a cord p or
by any suitable means whereby it can be interposed between the said needles and
the card "cylinder" r, the said plate being of such a size as that when so interposed,
the whole of the needles in the set 7 are pushed in at each stroke of the cylinder.
It will be seen that so long as the said plate is so interposed the cards on the

page_text: cylinder have no control upon the mails h, and if the said mails were not also
connected with the apparatus B they would all remain down. When the weaving
has progressed to the point wherein the central design has to commence the plate o
is lowered, and the apparatus B is set in action by moving a sliding clutch so
as to engage with the boss of a lever which gives motion to the said apparatus,
or by any other suitable means. A set of cards prepared for the central
design is mounted upon the cylinder of the apparatus B, and the mails h
being now controlled by the said apparatus the central design is produced in
place of the general ground. When the said design is completed the apparatus B
is "thrown out of gear" and the plate o is raised. The needles in the set 1 may be
put out of action otherwise than by the interposition of the plate o, as, for example,
arrangements may be made for drawing inwards and holding back the needles so
that they are not pushed in at each stroke of the cylinder. My Invention is
applicable in the production of more than one design upon a ground, and generally
in cases wherein the complete design cannot be produced by one set of cards. Any
required number, or the whole of the mails, may be connected with both apparatus,
and the connecting cords may be arranged in any suitable manner, and the mails
or any required proportion of them may be connected with the needles on what is
termed the five-end system; or two or any other suitable number of mails may be
connected with one needle. The manner in which I prefer to produce the end or
cross borders will be indicated when describing the second part of my Invention,
which is illustrated by Figs. 2, 24, and 3. Fig. 2 represents a card cylinder, and
Fig. 2 illustrates the arrangement of the needles to suit the said cylinder. In the
example the vertical rows of needles in the needle board s are spaced at twice the
distance apart as compared with the rows of holes t in the cylinder, and there are
or may be twice as many holes in each face of the cylinder as there are needles. A
portion of a card is indicated in position upon the cylinder at u. The card is
perforated with two sets of holes, the rows of one set alternating with the rows of
the other set. To separately distinguish the two sets in the Drawing, one set is
indicated by crosses, and the other set by dots. One set of holes is adapted to
produce one pattern, and the other set to produce another pattern, as, for example,
this part of my Invention may be employed to produce the end borders in the
article referred to when describing the first part of my Invention. In such a case
one set of holes would be adapted to produce the plain ground or the ground
pattern, and the other set would be adapted to produce the cross or end borders.
At the times when the changes have to be effected the cylinder is moved in the
direction of its axis to the extent of half the distance between the vertical rows
of needles so as to bring one pattern upon the cards into action, and to throw the
other pattern out of action. In some cases more than two patterns may be
produced by the one set of cards, as, for example, one pattern may be woven with
the cylinder in one position; the cylinder may then be shifted end wise to weave
the second pattern or ground, and to weave the third pattern be again shifted
endwise to bring a third set of holes into use; or one set of holes may produce the
end borders, another set the side borders and ground, and a third set the side
borders, ground, and central design, thus dispensing with the additional apparatus B.
It will be seen that by the combination of the two parts of my Invention, or by
the separate use of either of the two parts, effective designs may be completely
produced without having to change one set of cards for another in the usual way.
The shifting of the cylinder may be effected by any suitable means; Fig. 3 indicates
one arrangement which may be adopted. One of the gudgeons of the cylinder is
provided with a collar which works in a slot in the link of an excentric v which
can be rotated to some extent in either direction by means of a cross lever w to
which cords are attached. When one cord is pulled the cylinder is shifted in one
direction, and when the other cord is pulled the cylinder is shifted back. Fig. 3
also illustrates an arrangement whereby the card cylinder can conveniently and a
expeditiously be rotated in one direction or the other The presser lever x and
catch lever y have cords attached to their free ends so that the presser and catch

page_text: ends can be lifted clear of the cylinder, which can then be turned by means of the
endless cord or band passing over a pulley on the card cylinder axis. The
application of my Invention may be greatly extended beyond the methods of
weaving which are described herein by way of example.
Having now fully set forth and indicated the nature of my said Invention and the
manner in which I carry the same into practical effect, I would have it to be
understood that I claim,-
First. The employment of the additional jacquard apparatus, and the connection
of the mails or parts which lift the warp ends, or of any number of the mails with
the said apparatus as well as with the ordinary apparatus, substantially as and for
the purpose set forth and indicated.
Secondly. The combination and arrangement of apparatus, substantially as and
for the purpose set forth and indicated with reference to Fig. 1 of the accompanying
Drawings.
And, Lastly. The cards perforated to produce two or more patterns, and adapted
to be used upon a cylinder which is formed with two or more sets of holes, and is
arranged to be shifted in the direction of its axis to bring one or another or the
other pattern into use, substantially as set forth and indicated.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Irving, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Seventeenth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty one.
Signed, sealed, and delivered in
the presence of
EDWARD K. DUTTON,
41, John Dalton St.,
Manchester.
(Agent for the Patentee).
JAMES IRVING. (L.S.)