Improvements in the Manufacture of Elastic Stockings and the like, and in the Means or Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Oct., 1888-Accepted, 10th Oct., 1889
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Elastic Stockings and the like,
and in the Means or Apparatus therefor.
4:
I, JOHANN HERMAN ROBERT HUPPELSBERG of Barmen in the German Empire,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC STOCKINGS AND THE LIKE AND IN THE MEANS. OR
APPARATUS THEREFOR " and in what manner the same is to be performed to be par-
ticularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to an improved method of manufacturing seamless elastic
stockings and the like such as used for surgical purposes by weaving and also improved
means for this purpose. The manufacture of stockings by weaving in such a manner
that the fabric should consist substantially in a number of parallel threads united by
a cross thread or cross threads (warp and weft) without looping and without actual
interlacing of the weft with each individual warp thread has heretofore been im-
practicable as such stockings lack the requisite elasticity.
By using an elastic weft thread which is not simply shot in parallel layers or lengths
but forms a continuous spiral the above mentioned defect is entirely obviated in a
simple and efficacious manner and this is the principal feature of the present
invention.
In order to enable such elastic weft thread to be used and in order to give the
right shape to the stockings, certain improvements in the usual rubber loom and an
improved form of shuttle for the same are provided as will presently appear.
In the accompanying drawings figs. 1 and 2 show how elastic stockings and the like
were heretofore made. They are formed as a flat open web or fabric and closed by
sewing in a line along the chain. The chain consists of unelastic thread the weft
consisting of elastic material. The chain in such a stocking is introduced in parallel
or nearly parallel lengths or layers. Such stockings therefore always have a seam
which in wear always is unpleasantly noticeable by the pressure which it exerts besides
requiring the additional operation of sewing.
In a stocking or the like made according to this invention, shown in figs. 3 or 4 the
fabric is made double or as a closed tube the weft is exclusively elastic material
whilst the chain may consist of either elastic or unelastic material.
In the fabric produced according to this invention the weft thread passes in a
spiral line between the chain threads and this is obtained by passing the shuttle
once through the shed formed by the upper set of chain threads and once through the
shed between the lower set of chain threads.
The loom, with a second regulating device is shown in side elevation in fig. 5.
Fig. 6 shows a front elevation of the second regulator.
Fig. 6 shows how the fabric is guided between a roller and a plate.
Fig. 7 top-view of the regulator.
Figs. 8, 8, 9, 10 and 11 show various views of the improved shuttle.
Figs. 12 and 12 are two sections through the heel of a stocking taken on planes
at right angles to one another.
As well be seen in fig. 5 a second regulator is provided on the breast beam a of the
loom and it is combined with a device for firmly closing the edges.
This device consists of a bridge b which at the front part connecting the two sides
of the bridge, has a slot c. This slot may be formed as shown by a lath or plate
having suitable lugs, or by cutting into the crosspiece. The slot c affords passage to
the fabric and being shorter than the width of the sley e forces the side threads of
the fabric to close up towards the middle so that a less length of the elastic thread will
pass into the fabric at the edges. By a firm stroke of the sley e against the slotted

page_text: "
speaking short portion of loose rubber thread, that the closeness of the fabric at the
edges is equal to that of the inner portions of the fabric.
In producing a stocking or the like according to this invention the special con-
struction of the shuttle (aided when required by the second regulator) enables the
leg portion and the heel to be properly shaped.
The improved shuttle shown in figs. 8, 8, 9, 10 and 11, is so constructed that it may
be adjustable so as to allow of the variations in diameter and shape required for a
stocking. The shortening consequent upon the gradual unwinding of the rubber
thread is utilised in obtaining the desired shape and for this reason one shuttle is used
for the leg portion the length of thread in one turn of this is longer than in another
-shuttle used for the heel the adjustment being preferably such that the outermost coils
on the second shuttle correspond in length to the innermost coils on the first so that
the second shuttle forms as it were a continuation of the first. The means for adjusting
the shuttle so that the length of each coil or turn of the thread may correspond to
requirement will be presently more fully referred to.
The shuttle carrier g has two pins or studs h h upon which the shuttle is fitted. The
front or top portion of the shuttle is by screws / set nearer to or further from
the back i and fixed in position by the nuts m, and this determines the quantity of
thread which the shuttle is able to take up. The length of each coil or turn is
The nearer to the
. determined by adjusting the centre-piece p by means of screw o.
centre of the shuttle the piece p is set, the shorter will the coils be, the further the
piece is moved towards the periphery the longer the coils will become. Thus
the quantity of thread on the shuttle is regulated in accordance with the size of the
stocking and the length of the coils according to the width of the stocking.
For making the leg portion of the stocking the first shuttle above referred to is
used and both regulators or "take-ups" move at a uniform speed. The second shuttle
with shorter coils of thread is used for making the heel portion and then the upper
regulator is made to work faster than the lower one so that the top of the fabric is
pulled forward relatively to the lower portion thereof.
In making the heel the fabric passes from the slot c under the ribbed roller q which
bears somewhat firmly against a plate » extending underneath the fabric. This roller q
is controlled by gearing connecting it through levert with the reciprocating batten s
and the levert being adjustable will pull the upper chain threads more or less whilst
the lower regulator continues to work at a uniform speed. By this means the threads
in the lower part, forming the instep are laid more closely making this part shorter
than the upper portion of the fabric which forms the heel.
This is shown in the diagrams figs. 12" and 12b, S, indicating that portion of the
fabric which forms the instep and F that which forms the heel.
After the heel and instep are formed the top regulator is once more adjusted to
work at the same speed as the lower one and, a properly adjusted shuttle being used
the stocking may be finished up to the point. The point is closed by drawing
together the elastic threads and fastened with a few stitches. Fraying of the top of
the stocking is prevented by tying a few of the chain threads so that they hold the
elastic thread between them.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that I claim:-
1.) A method of making woven elastic stockings or the like wherein a continuous
weft thread forms a spiral running through the article and retained by the chain
threads, the gradual diminution of the shuttle diameter (caused by the unwinding
of the weft thread, being utilized for shaping the leg or corresponding portion,
whilst the heel is formed by unequal advance of the two portions of the fabric as
set forth.
2.) In weaving elastic stockings and the like the employment of a shuttle adjustable
as to its capacity and as to the length of each coil of thread, constructed and operating
as set forth and shown in the drawings.

page_text: 3.) In a loom for weaving elastic stockings and the like the arrangement of the
second regulator on the breast beam a in combination with the slotted bridge b (the
slot c being shorter than the sley) the roller q and plater the whole arranged and
operating as and for the purposes set forth.
Dated this 10th J... of Antali.. 1000
BERNHARD DUKES,
226, High Holborn, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.