IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND TREATMENT OF CRAPE
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Philip Le Gros, James Thompson, and Henry Thompson,
all of Gutter Lane, in the City of London, Crape Manufacturers, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND TREATMENT OF
CRAPE,"
Sealed the 6th August 1878, and dated the 1st March 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Philip Le Gros, James
Thompson, and Henry Thompson at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents on the 1st March 1878.
PHILIP LE GROS, JAMES THOMPSON, and HENRY THOMPSON, all of Gutter Lane,
in the City of London, Crape Manufacturers. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE AND TREATMENT OF CRAPE,"
This Invention relates to the production of a dress or preparation for crape, which
enables it to be subjected to rain or other wet or moisture without the injury which
would thereby be caused to crape finished in the ordinary manner.
Our Invention is especially applicable to black crapes made entirely of silk tissue,
which are passed between crimping rollers in order to produce their peculiar crimp
or figure, whether such crapes are known as crape, or Norwich crape, or English
crape, or as aerophane, or otherwise, but it is also applicable to all black crapes, the
crimp or figure of which is produced, as aforesaid, whether made of raw silk pre-
pared for weaving by the usual processes of the crape manufacture or of spun silk,
or of any other fibre or any intermixture of different fibres, as well as with the
modification herein-after described to coloured crapes, whether known as crape of
any denomination or as aerophane crape crimped as aforesaid, and whether made of
raw silk prepared as aforesaid, or of spun silk, or of any other fibre, or any
intermixture of different fibres.
Our dress is produced by dissolving shellac (or other resins or resinous gums, but,
as a rule, we prefer shellac) in alcohol or other solvents, as herein-after described.
To the solution we usually add glycerine or oil with (for black crapes or
aerophanes) a small quantity of ivory black or lamp black or other carbons or

page_text: other absorbents, with or without other thickoning materials, stirring the whole
mixture well together.
In coloured crapes or aerophanes we substitute other than black substances to
thicken the mixture.
The crape which has been previously crimped and dyed, or partially dyed, is
passed through this dress mixture and between rollers or other apparatus for
removing the superfluous dressing mixture, and is then carefully examined, and if
any superfluous dress is still found to adhere to it so as to disfigure it the crapes is
cleared by the methods usually adopted in crape finishing. In a short time, and
for the most part without being exposed to heat it becomes dry enough to be rolled
on rollers, and when that has been done it is then placed for some time in a heated
room which completes the processes of manufacture.
The alcohol used to dissolve the shellac may be either as pure as may be pro-
curable, or the gums may be dissolved by using methylated spirit or any solvent
containing a large proportion of alcohol, or by using ether or methylene or pyroxilic
spirit or petroleum spirit, or any other volatile solvent.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Philip Le Gros, James Thompson, and Henry Thompson in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 31st August 1878.
· PHILIP LE GROS, JAMES THOMPSON, and HENRY THOMPSON, all of Gutter Lane,
in the City of London, Crape Manufacturers. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE AND TREATMENT OF CRAPE."
Our said Invention relates to the production of a dress or preparation for crape
which enables it to be subjected to rain or other wet or moisture without the injury
which would thereby be caused to crape finished in the ordinary manner.
Our said Invention is especially applicable to black crapes made entirely of silk
tissue, which are passed between crimping rollers in order to produce their peculiar
crimp or figure, as is well understood, whether such crapes are known as crape, or
Norwich crape, or English crape, but it is also applicable to all black crapes the
crimp or figure, of which is produced as aforesaid, such crapes being either made of
raw silk prepared for weaving by the usual processes employed in the crape manu-
facture, or of spun silk, or of any other fibre capable of being employed in the manu-
facture of crape, or any intermixture of different fibres capable of being employed
for similar purposes, and it may be applicable with the modification herein-after
described to colored crapes crimped as aforesaid, and whether made of raw silk pre-
pared as aforesaid or of spun silk, or of any other fibre capable of being employed
in the manufacture of crape or any intermixture of different fibres capable of being
employed for similar purposes, bearing in mind that delicate colors are somewhat
affected by the application of our Invention.
Our dress is produced by effecting the solution of shellac, resins, or resinous
gums in a volatile solvent or solvents, such, for example, as alcohol, methylated
spirit, or wood naphtha, but other volatile solvents may be employed.

page_text: We may state that, by preference, we employ a solution of shellac in a volatile
solvent.
The proportions in which we employ the solutions of shellac, resins, or resinous
gums will vary according to the materials to be treated, and the results it is desired
to obtain, but we have found good results to be obtained by the employment of
solutions of the aforesaid substances in about the proportion of from four to six parts
by weight either of shellac, resins, or resinous gums, to about sixteen parts by weight
of the solvent employed.
To the solution obtained, as before mentioned, glycerine or vegetable oil or oils
in about the same proportion of from one to two parts by weight may be added,
or mixtures of glycerine and vegetable oil may be employed, and for black crapes a
very small quantity, about a third of one part by weight of ivory black, or lamp
black, or other carbonaceous substances or absorbents may be employe 1, the mixture
being well stirred, and being by preference maintained in suspension.
In the preparation of colored crapes we substitute other than black substances to
thicken the mixture.
In carrying out our Invention the crape which has been previously crimped and
dyed, or partially dyed, is passed through this dress mixture and between rollers or
other apparatus for removing the superfluous dressing mixture adhering thereto,
and is then carefully examined; and if any superfluous dress is still found to adhere
to it so as to disfigure it the crape is cleared by the method usually adopted in
crape finishing,
The fabrics thus treated may be dried by exposure to the atmosphere, or if
necessary a heated atmosphere may be employed. When the fabrics have become
sufficiently dry to be rolled on rollers, they may, if necessary, be placed for some
time in a heated room.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of our said Inven-
tion, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into effect, we
would observe in conclusion that what we consider to be novel and original, and
therefore claim as the Invention secured to us by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent is, the manufacture or treatment of crapes by the employment of the
herein-before mentioned dress or preparation, substantially in the manner herein-
before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Thompson, on behalf of Philip Le
Gros, Henry Thompson, and myself, have hereunto set my hand and seal,
this Thirtieth day of August, One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
eight
JAMES THOMPSON. (L.S.)