Iм- PROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Joseph Hughes, of the City of Manchester,
in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "Iм-
PROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING."-A communication
from abroad by James Wilcox, of New York, and Edward Howard, of
Norfolk County, Massachusetts, U.S. of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Joseph Hughes
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
. 14th April 1860.
I, EDWARD JOSEPH HUGHES, of the City of Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING," as communicated
to me from abroad by James Wilcox, of New York, and Edward Howard, of
Norfolk County, Massachusetts, U.S. of America, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a series of improvements in the construction of
sewing machines, which are chiefly improvements upon or applicable to sewing
machines for which Royal Letters Patent have been granted to me and other
persons in England, and consists,-
Firstly, of a plan to operate as a self-acting brake for instantly stopping

page_text: and preventing the movement in the wrong direction of the fly wheel of the
treddle, now generally applied to operate sewing machines.
Secondly, of an improved friction pad for the sewing thread.
Thirdly, of an improved method of setting and attaching the needle to the
needle bar.
Fourthly, of an improved construction of hemmers for folding and turning
over the edges of fabrics to be hemmed or felled.
Fifthly, of an improved method or contrivance for feeding or moving forward
the fabric or material to be sewed by it, also the material sewn is stripped from
the needle during the process of sewing without being subjected to pressure
at the part being sewn, the sewing being effected free from pressure untill after
it is completed and passed on to a distance beyond the needle.
All which improvements when applied and used form part of one and the
same machine, but may be used separately, and applied either in whole or part
to various sewing machines.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 represents a front view of the self-acting brake, which may be
screwed or attached to any convenient part of the treddle, stand, or frame, in
such manner as to bring the brake close to the periphery of the fly wheel, as
shewn in Fig. 2. When the brake is applied on the side towards the operator,
it serves the additional purpose of preventing the rubbing of the dress or
clothes of the operator by the fly wheel. The brake is formed with a chamber,
one of the sides of which forms a tangent with the circumference of the fly wheel,
which chamber is open on the side towards the wheel, and in the wedge
formed space between the periphery of the wheel and the tangential side of
the chamber is placed a ball or cylinder, which may be loose; a differently
shaped piece may be made to answer, but a cylinder is preferred. The opera-
tion of this contrivance is, that the wheel can revolve freely in the direction
of the arrow, but its rotation in an opposite direction causes the cylinder to
be nipped between the periphery of the wheel and the opposite tangential
surface, so that the wheel is stopped and effectually prevented from revolving
in that direction. This plan is also applicable to wheels moved otherwise than
by treddle power.
Figs. 3 and 4 represent a front and sectional view of the friction pad, the
piece in the cylinder being pressed by the spring against an opposite part, and
between the two surfaces the thread is passed, as shewn in Fig. 4. Figs. 5
& 6 represent a contrivance for setting the needle into the bar, the aperture
into which the needle is to be put has a tongue, and the needle a slot corre-

page_text: sponding, the tapered end of the bar being divided, so that by the operation of
the screw it is compressed, and holds the needle with a tight grasp. Fig. 5
represents a front view, partly in section, of the needle and its bar in the
position in which the needle is worked. Figure 6 represents a horizontal
section through the needle bar and cap end, and without the needle in it..
Figs. 7, 8, 9, and 10, an improved construction of folders or hemmers for
folding and turning the edges of the materials to be sewn, by which the
turning or folding is effected in a peculiar manner.
Fig. 11, a contrivance for feeding along the material whilst being sewn.
The feeding movement is effected by the rotation of the double wheel in
combination with the wheel which is in contact with it, the said wheels being
pressed with some force together grip and hold the material when passed
between them, so that it must pass or move along in the direction in which
the wheels are rotated, shewn by the direction of the arrow. The material
does not come under the pressure of the feed until after the sewing is effected,
but a foot is placed immediately above the material sewn without being in
actual contact with it, but sufficiently near to strip the material sewn from off
the needle when the latter is withdrawn. The said foot may be firmly attached,
or be made to oscillate. The top wheel and foot may also be applied to flat
surface feeds and to those under side from motion feeds at present used, as
shewn in Fig. 12. Fig. 11 is a front, and Fig. 13 a side elevation of this
contrivance.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Edward Joseph Hughes in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 13th October 1860.
TO ALL TO WHCM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
JOSEPH HUGHES, of the City of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-third year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Edward Joseph Hughes, Her special licence that I, the said Edward
Joseph Hughes, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Edward Joseph Hughes, my executors, administrators and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times

page_text: '
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE
MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING, "being a communication to
me from abroad by James Wilcox, of New York, and Edward Howard, of
Norfolk County, Massachusetts, U.S. of America, upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, my executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement (that is to say):-
This Invention consists of a scries of improvements in sewing machines, of
which the leading novelty is an improved feed for feeding along the material
being sewn, giving a positive feed motion more certain, and admitting a much
greater range of variation in the length of the stitches produced than here-
tofore obtained.
In adapting and developing the application of this principle in the most
advantageous manner to the adjustment of complete machines in the most
efficient working combinations several new contrivances and constructions of
parts are employed, which being incidental to the exemplification of this
principle are essentially part of the Invention, whether taken in entire com-
bination of the whole, or essential parts taken in partial combination, as they
are capable of being applied more or less separately, and detached to various
other constructions of sewing machines.
The feed is produced by the rotation of the circumferential edge of a double
wheel in combination with a second wheel, which bears with sufficient force
upon it to cause the two to revolve together, by which means they firmly grip
and hold the material that shall be placed between them, so that it must pass
or move along in the direction in which the wheels are rotated. This feed I
denominate and call throughout "the cylinder feed." The sewing needle is
thrust between the two divisions of the double wheel, which is divided
vertically to the line of its axis, and thus a feeding hold is obtained upon each
side of the needle path. By making this wheel like a hoop or circular rim,
rotating it upon a segmental circular bearing, and dispensing with a centre, a

page_text: very useful space is obtained for operating within its circumference the under
side portions of the sewing apparatus in immediate connection with the sewing
needle. By these means the two chief objections to the use of wheel feeds
in sewing machines is obviated, that is to say, the feed operates equally upon
each side of the needle and working space, for the under side is afforded
directly beneath it. The material being sewn is stripped from the sewing
needle, when the latter is withdrawn during the process of sewing without
being subjected to pressure at the sewing point, the sewing being effected free
from pressure until after it is completed and passed on to a distance beyond
the needle. The sewing needle (or that which pierces the cloth) has a bearing
on one side upon a small grooved wheel, by which the throwing out of its
thread loop for the under side needle to enter is made certain. The under
side needles which are contrived for the most effectual operation of this feed
principle in connection with the double-looped stitch of two threads, are of
peculiar form and construction, and operate in a manner not heretofore
practised; while they are intended and especially adapted to this feed
principle, they are found to be also suitable to be worked in connection with
the old and known feed apparatus of other machines, being more simple,
efficient, and true, they may be therefore readily adapted and applied to such,
and herein are represented two different applications of the under side needles
separate from a wheel feed, one operating with the well-known under side
"four-motion" feed, and the other operating with a top side feed. There is
also represented a cylinder feed combined with a rotary looper for sewing the
single-thread loop-stitch; this feed can also be separately adapted to the
shuttle or lock-stitch, as well as to other sorts of sewing machines.
This Invention further comprises a self-acting brake for stopping the move-
ment when in the wrong direction of any of the rotating or wheel movements
of the machines by the nipping of a spherical, cylindrical, wedge, or other
suitably shaped piece between the periphery of the wheel or rotating surface
and an opposite surface tangential to the same.
.
This Invention further comprises an improved friction pad for the sewing
thread.
'
Also an improved method of setting and attaching the needle to the
needle bar.
Also an improved construction of hemmers for folding and turning over
the edge of fabrics to be hemmed or felled.
And, lastly, the combination and arrangement of parts by which these
improvements are applied and used, either in whole or in part, so as to form
one complete machine, as herein represented and described.

page_text: These improvements will be clearly understood by referring to the Figures
and letters on the accompanying six Sheets of Drawings.
Fig. 1 is a front view of the under side feed wheel, and Fig. 2 an end view
of the same. The wheel is double, as seen in Fig. 2, and consists of two
circular rims a, a, which rest on a segmental circular bearing b, b, shewn at
section in Fig. 24, and attached in any convenient manner to the bed plate c
of the machine. In the segmental bearing are friction rollers e, e, which
facilitate the running of the feed wheel. The rotation of the feed wheel is
effected by the crank arm d on the shaft f, which arm grips the feed wheel by
means of two wheels g, g, and two brakes h, h, which brakes, by checking the
rotation of the wheels g, g, cause them to take a very firm grip upon and carry
along the feed wheel when moved in the direction of the arrow; but allow them
to rotate freely in a contrary direction, when the crank arm is moved back
again to take a fresh hold for a new advance of the feed wheel. The
brakes h, h, are slightly pressed towards the feed wheel by a spring formed by
an elastic band, as shewn in the Drawing, or other convenient mode. The
grip wheels g, g, are pressed together so as to take firm hold of the feed wheel
by the slide and screw at the end of the arm. In order to prevent the feed
wheel from rotating in a wrong direction, a break i connected by a swing rod
on the shaft is placed, as shewn in Fig. 1, and is held to its place on the
surface of the wheel by any suitable spring.
In Fig. 3 the aforesaid under side feed wheel is shewn combined with a
second or upper feed wheel k, the two forming together what I denominate
" a cylinder feed"; attached to the spindle of the upper wheel k, is a foot
1, which does not press upon the under feed surface but serves to strip the
cloth from the sewing needle, when the latter is withdrawn and is prevented by
the projection or pin l, from being drawn up by the action of the needle,
but the foot may be made to press upon the cloth at the commencement
of sewing by pushing forward the upper part with the finger until sufficient
number of stitches have been made for the wheel k to take hold of it. Fig. 3
also shows an under side needle m, contrived and adapted to work in
combination with the aforesaid under side feed wheel, which needle is shewn
in its advanced position at n, and at its back throw at m, and receives its
motion from a crank arm o, on a shaft concentric to the shaft f; Fig. 4 is
a top view of the under side needle m and its attachment; Fig. 5 is an end
view of the same, shewing the camp on the needle bar, which bears by the
force of its own elasticity against the bowl q, so that when in its forward
movement the cam has passed beyond the bowl, a peculiar motion is imparted
to the needle throwing it into position in connection with the sewing needle as

page_text: seen at n, Fig. 4. In Fig. 3 the bowl q and its attachment is removed, in
order to shew more clearly the parts there represented. Fig. 6 is a side
elevation, Fig. 7 a top view, Fig. 8 a front elevation, and Fig. 9 a back
elevation of a machine for working the cylinder feed and under side needle,
as herein-before described; Fig. 10 is a plan of the same, with the bed plate
removed. The machine is put in operation by the driving wheel r, on the
shaft s, which carries the crank t, by which the needle arm u is worked up.
and down, the crank pin t, t, revolves in a friction slide v, v, which slides
back and forth in the slot x, x, as shewn in Fig. 9; the shafts also carries the
cam wheel v, shewn detached in Fig. 104, which represents the face of the
wheel in which are the two cams w and x; the cam w operates the central
shaft, which carries the arm d, by which the feed wheel is moved, as
represented in Fig. 1, and the cam x operates the concentric shaft y, by which
the under side needle m is worked; the shaft f is in two lengths, one end
of each length nearly approaching cach other in the centre between the crank
arm z, and the crank arm a¹; the crank arm b¹, which is operated by the
cam w, shewn in Fig. 10, gives a corresponding motion to the crank
arm a, which has an attachment for graduating the extent of the motion,
which it communicates to the crank arm z, which operates the under side
needle m, so that the throw of the latter may be varied from the full extent
of the throw of the crank arm a¹, to the smallest fractional part thereof,
say the twentieth part of an inch if required, whilst the throw may be
extended so as to form stitches an inch in length. The sewing needle arm u,
is moved up and down by the direct action of the crank t, the usual secondary
lever being dispensed with, the said arm is made to slide in a vertical
cylinder c fitted to receive it, the cylinder being firmly attached to the bed
plate of the machine; a grooved wheel b' is placed so as to bear upon the
back part of the lever arm u in its slide, in order still further to ensure
the steadiness of its motion and secure the minimum of friction; the arm e¹ to
which the upper feed wheel is attached, and by which it is pressed upon
the under feed wheel is formed at its back with a leg f, fitted to slide in
a space g', formed in the base in which it rests to receive it, and in which
is a spiral spring by the action of which it presses the wheel on the surface
of the wheel a, as shewn in Fig. 9; the arm e', has a second leg h¹, sliding in
the space, in order to give the arm e¹ greater steadiness in its position. It
will be seen by this arrangement that the necessary sliding parts of the needle
and pressing arms and the lubrication thereof are wholly removed from the
stitching point, so that the work is protected from contact with the oil, which
has hitherto been found so objectionable in machine sewing.

page_text: Sheet, Fig. 11, is a front, Fig. 15 a Dack, Figs. 12 and 14 opposite side
elevations, and Fig. 15 is a top view of another construction of machine for
working the under side feed wheel, before described in connection with a
differently constructed under side needle arranged to work transversely to the
plane of the feed wheel, the construction and action of which needle are
clearly represented in the Figs. 42, 43, and 44, Sheet 1.
This machine is constructed so as to be attached to a table by a screw at
the base. The driving wheel of this machine works in a transverse
direction to the last described, and carries a stud b³, working in a slot c³ in
the vertical sliding needle arm d, giving the latter an up-and-down motion,
the throw of which is seen by the dotted lines, in Fig. 12. The under side
feed arm e is operated by the shaft f, as in the machine before described;
the reciprocating motion of the shaft is communicated by a different
arrangement suited to the altered position of the driving wheel; the under
side needle g3 of this machine is attached to a needle carrier h³, which is
worked by a sliding bar 3, having a forward and backward movement, the
different positions of which are shewn in Figs. 43 and 44, Sheet 1. It
may be observed that these last mentioned figures are drawn to a somewhat
larger scale than the Figures shewn on Sheets 3 & 4; the framework
the machine is formed with grooves to receive the sliding needle arm d³, and
also contains a bore for receiving the leg or foot 3 of the presser arm o³, seen
in Figs. 19, 20, and 21. To the extremity of the presser arm is attached
a hollow cylindrical piece p3, Fig. 19, through which the needle-holder
freely passes, over the cylinder p³ is slipped a cylindrical piece q³, to which
is attached the foot perforated as usual to receive the needle, which latter
cylinder may be secured in any desired place, by a set screw or other con-
venient method; by this arrangement, in whatever direction the foot is turned
upon the shaft, which carries it, the perforated slot will be always in the
centre under the needle.
of
In order that the construction of this machine may be more clearly under-
stood, the principal parts are shewn in Figs. 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
24 and 25, Sheet 4.
Fig. 22 represents the side elevation of the standard or framework of the
machine, which when in operation is securely screwed to a table; Fig. 24, a
reverse side of the same with the grooves presented, in which the needle arm
slides; Fig. 23 is a transverse section of the top end of the same; Fig. 25 is
a back view of the same piece, the dotted lines in which shew the bore m³, in
which is inserted the leg n of the presser arm o³, Fig. 19.
Fig. 16 is a side view of the needle arm with the slide presented; Fig. 17,
.

page_text: being a transverse section of the same at the line 3, Fig. 16: Fig. 18 is a
front view of the needle arm piece, shewing the slide projections in profile,
the lower part of which is shewn broken off in Fig. 16, in order to uncover
the chamber behind, seen in Fig. 18, and which affords space for part of the
apparatus immediately connected with the driving wheel. Figs. 19 and 20
represent opposite side views of the presser arm, which holds the foot upon the
feed wheel and slides up and down in the bore m³, in the standard or framework
before described; Fig. 21 is a back view of the presser arm, and Fig. 26,
a transverse section at the line 3, of the same.
:
Fig. 27, Sheet 4, represents the manner of giving reciprocating horizontal
motion to the under side needle bar 3 by a diagonal slot, cut in that portion
of the needle bar slide which covers the chamber shewn in Fig. 18; u³
represents the face of the slide towards the chamber, in the face of which
slide is cut the diagonal slot 3 in which works a stud w³ attached to a crank
arm 3, which oscillates upon a centre 13. The stud w also works in a
vertical slot seen at the extremity of the sliding bar 3. It follows that when the
slide is at the top of the throw and the stud w³ in a corresponding position;
as seen in Fig. 27, the bar will be in the position shewn in this Figure and
that by the action of the slot at the bottom throw of the slide u³, the stud w³
will be brought to the position shewn at 23, and consequently the slide bar
will be withdrawn horizontally in the direction of the dotted lines, Fig. 27; the
centre study is attached to the standard or centre piece 1, its position' on which
is shewn in face in Fig. 24, and profile in Fig. 25.
Figs. 28, 29 and 30, represent the manner of giving reciprocating motion
to the shaft 3, and feed arm e; the shaft a' of the driving wheel a³, carries
a second stud b', which in its throw carries up and down the small frame c¹
which slides by the rods d in the guiding sockets es attached to the standard 13,
seen in Figs. 24 and 25. This frame has a sliding bar f', the position' of'
which is adjusted by the set screw g' for the purpose of regulating the length
of the throw of the feed arm e³; the stud b' only makes its throw during its
revolution through the upper fourth part of the circle described by it, that is to
say, when it has risen three-fourths of its upward throw, it strikes against the
under side of the top part of the frame clifting it up the extent of the throw;
the top part of the frame c is attached by a stud'h' to a' crank arm of the
shaft which it elevates in the position scen in Fig. 28. The stud b in
its downward throw strikes upon the sliding bar freturning it to its
original position according to its adjustment by the set' screw g³, beforė
described.
Fig. 31, Sheet 4 represents a front elevation of a machine constructed to

page_text: Work With Life cymder reed in connection with the rotary looper for sewing
the loop stitch with a single thread. The rotary looper o is worked
direct by the driving shaft s to the end of which it is attached, the use of
the cam for working the feed throw only being retained and the second cam
dispensed with.
Fig. 32, Sheet 5, represents a side, and Fig. 33, a front elevation of another
construction of machine in which the first herein described under side needles
are adapted to work in combination with an upper side feed; Fig 34 is a
bottom view of the same, and Fig. 35 an opposite side view of the upper
needle arm and bracket. This is a very simple and efficient machine where an
upper side feed is no objection. In this machine the driving shaft a rotates
a cam wheel 65, which wheel has a two-throw cam cut upon each of its faces, the
forms of which are seen represented in Fig. 33, by which all the working parts
of the machine are put in operation; the cam r on the front face drives the
connecting rod c5, which works the lever d³ and needle bar e in the slide f³,
the cam s on the rear face works the lever g³, which is attached to and rocks
the shaft h, to the other end of which is attached the under side needle arm k5,
by the vertical rotary vibration of which the needle 15 itself is moved backward
and forward through the thread loop of the sewing needle. A small grooved
wheel m is so placed that the thread side of the sewing needle bears slightly
against it, by the operation of which the throwing out by the sewing needle of
its thread loop upon its withdrawal is made sure; this is shewn detached in
detail in the Figures 38, 39, 40, and 41, Sheet 1, the same is also shewn
attached to the machine described in Figs. 10 and 6, Sheet 2.
A description of the top feed, which is clearly represented in Fig. 33 is
unnecessary, as it is already well known.
Figs. 36 and 37, Sheet 6, represent another construction of machine for
working the second herein described of my. under side needles in connection
with an under side four-motion feed, this also will be found a simple and
efficient machine for that description of feed.
Fig. 36 represents a side elevation, and Fig. 37, a bottom view of this
machine, which is put in operation by a small driving wheel a intended to
be driven by a treddle; this wheel carries a stud 66, working in a slot c of the
rocking lever do, which vibrates the needle bar e up and down in its slide.
The under needle bar slide f is attached at one end by the screw or bolt g
to the lower end of the rocking lever d in such a position in relation to the
time of the movement of the latter, that it commences to move forward as the
sewing needle commences to rise, and commences to move backwards as
the sewing needle commences to fall; this under side needle will be found

page_text: Sheet 1.
The "four-motion feed" is effected by the cam shapes formed upon the
slide bar f, which operate upon the projections in its forward movement,
and in its backward movement, so as to throw the feed slide 1 forward and
backward in the necessary manner to feed along.
The up and down or vertical motion of the feed is effected by a similar
shape on the top side of the needle bar, which pushes the feed plate upwards;
the return motion being effected by a spring.
Figs. 38, 39, 40, and 41, Sheet 1, represent detached views shewing in
detail the construction and operation of the first described of the two under
side needles comprised in this Invention. Fig. 39 represents rear side
view shewing the three positions of the half, full, and back throw, the two
latter being shewn by the dotted lines, the full lines represent the needle at
the half throw just as it is passing the sewing needle which has also arrived
at its half throw, at its upward withdrawal, at which point the loop is
completely formed and the under side needle is commencing to enter it, as
seen in profile in Fig. 40. In Fig 41, which is a top view, is shewn the
shape of the needle bar with the cam upon it which is pressed by the force of
the spring, which the needle bar itself exerts against the small bowl n by the
combined operation of which the needle point is kept in position with regard
to the sewing needle as shewn in Fig. 38, until it has passed forward, far
enough for the cam to pass beyond the bowl 5, when the needle bar springs
forward to the position shewn in Figs. 34 and 10, Sheets 5 and 2, in which
the point and eye of the under side needle is carried about two diameters of
the sewing needle beyond the upper side of the latter, which is sufficient to
hold open the under thread loop wide enough to insure the sewing needle
passing within it, by this process the certain formation of the double loop is
continued. Fig. 38 represents an end view of the needle at half throw.
Figs. 42, 43, and 44, Sheet 1, represent detached views shewing in detail
the construction and operation of the second described of the two under side
needles comprised in this Invention. Fig. 42 is an end view shewing the
needle at half throw in the act of passing through the loop of the sewing
needle thread. Fig. 43 is a side view, and Fig. 44 is a top view of the same
in the same position, the dotted lines also shewing the other two positions of
the full and back throw. The needle bar h³ is of a peculiar shape as seen in
top view Fig. 44, and is pressed by the action of the spring u against a
peculiar shaped cam 5 by which the needle point is caused to describe a path
precisely similar to the outline of the cam v, so that it like the first described

page_text: needle, is enabled to carry the loop of the under side thread amply wide enough
to ensure the sewing needle and its thread passing within it. Although this
needle carries the thread in a different direction from the former described
needle, it will be observed that both of the under side needles have this novel
peculiarity, that whilst being worked to and fro with a straight forward thrust
they pass and repass on the same side of the sewing needle by means of their
configuration, in such a manner as to pass the under side threads through the
loop on one side of the sewing needle, and receive the loop of the latter,
through their own on the other, instead of passing in their forward motion on
one side of their sewing needle, and in their return motion by the other side
as heretofore done in those under side needles which work with a straight
thrust reciprocal motion.
Figs 45 and 46 represent the manner of attaching the needle to the holder
by a central grip and concentric screw. Fig. 46 shews the manner in which
the end of the needle-holder is cleft to receive the needle stock in the centre,
the screw cap which goes upon the tapered end of the holder, being then
screwed on, compresses the divided quarters so as to very firmly grip the
needle in its proper place, the needle stock has a tongue, and the needle a
corresponding slot to receive the same which is thus always placed with its eye
in the right position. Fig. 47 represents a sectional view, and Fig. 48, an
outside front view of the friction pad which is made in the shape of a hollow
cylinder within which a piston piece plays, having a coiled spring behind it, by
which it is impelled against the piece opposed to its other end, and exerts
a hold upon the sewing thread which is passed between them; it may be
attached to any convenient part of the machine.
Fig. 49 represents a side, and Fig 50 a top view of a single convoluted
hemmer, and Figs. 51 and 52 the same of a double convoluted hemmer
which are preferred to be made of steel, but may be made of any suitable
material. By passing the edge of the fabric being sewn through one of these
it is turned neatly over so as to form a hem or a fell, while being fed along
towards the needle; these as last mentioned, are constructed to be attached to
the sewing table or plate. It is preferred, however, to attach the hemmers to
or make them in one piece with the presser foot, and Fig. 53 shews a side
view and Fig. 54 a top view of the hemmer constructed and adapted so as to
be attached and used in this manner, which is more advantageous than when
fastened to the table plate.
Fig. 55 shews a side detached view of the attachment of the crank arm a
shewn in Fig. 6, Sheet 2, for graduating the extent of the throw which it com-
municates to the crank arm z and consequently to the feed wheel. It consists

page_text: of a segmental circular piece a¹, (shewn also in the plan Fig. 10) attached to
and forming part of the crank arm a' and moving with the shaft f; towards
its circumference, it has a circular slot in which slides the piece c' which is
attached to the arm d' which has a top part e, bearing by means of the top
screw when turned on upon the outer edge of the segmental piece a¹, the arm
chaving a separate attachment by which it swings around the shaft can when
the top screw is loosened, play along the face of the segment a¹ so as to be
attached to any part thereof down as far as the lower end of the slot b7.
When fastened by the screw at the point shewn Fig. 55, it will cause the
crank arm Z, Fig. 6, Sheet 2, and the feed wheel to receive a throw equal to
that of the whole motion of the crank arm a¹, and the throw of the crank arm
Z will be reduced as the arm a¹ is advanced towards the other end of the
slot 67 until it ceases to be thrown at all; by this contrivance any length of
stitch from an inch or more down to an almost infinitesimal dimension can
be obtained.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention, and the manner
in which the same is to be performed, as communicated to me from abroad, I
desire it to be understood that I do not claim as the Invention any of the parts
represented in the description and Drawings herewith, which are old or already
publicly known, and which have been used necessarily in exhibiting and
exemplifying the improvements comprised in this Invention, but I do claim as
new within the realm,-
Firstly, the application of the contrivance for a self-acting brake, herein
described, directly to the rotary and wheel movements of sewing machines,
substantially as represented; but I do not claim its application to the wheels
of treddles, being advised that it is very doubtful whether brakes for treddle
wheels can properly come under the head of improvements in sewing machines,
and I have, therefore, discontinued that item in my Specification.
Secondly, the application to sewing machines of the "cylinder feed" and
the sewing parts directly connected with the same, herein described and
represented, which claim comprises the under and upper feed wheels, the
applying the foot as a stripper without pressing upon the surface sewn, the
construction of and manner of operating the under side needles, the attaching
and working the presser arm and sewing needle arm at the back of the
machine, (or at the part opposite to that where the material is sewn), the
friction slide for the stud slot in the vibrating arm or arms, the friction pad
for the sewing thread, and the attaching the hemmers to the presser foot,
or forming them in one piece with it instead of attaching them, as heretofore,
to the bed plate or sewing table plate of the machine, or the mechanical

page_text: equivalents of these or of any of these, for the purposes and substantially in
the manner shewn and described.
And, lastly, the general construction, combination, and arrangement of parts
of sewing machines, for the purposes and substantially in the manner shewn
and described.
In witness whereof I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twelfth day of October, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty.
Signed, sealed, and delivered by the within-
named Edward Joseph Hughes in the
presence of
GEO. SEP. HUGHES,
17, Cross Street,
Manchester.
E. J. HUGHES. (L.S.)