IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Maurice Gandy, of 5 Ansdell Street, Liverpool in the
County of Lancaster Manufacturer of Cotton Belting for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO SEWING MACHINES"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Maurice Gandy at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 30th November 1882.
MAURICE GANDY, of 5, Ansdell Street, Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster
Manufacturer of Cotton Belting "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO SEWING
MACHINES"
My Invention relates to certain improvements hereinafter more particularly
mentioned and in sewing machines in which are employed either oscillating shuttles,
or rotary shuttles, or reciprocating shuttles, or oscillating hooks, or loopers, rotating
hooks, or loopers and reciprocating hooks, or loopers, and provides for the shuttle,
or looper taking the loop of the needle thread without cutting, or abraiding the
thread, thus enabling the sewing machine to be run at a very high speed.
Previous to my Invention, to enable the needle to be clear of the work before the
shuttle drew the thread through the work, it has been proposed to construct the
shuttle with a long beak so as to take the loop, but not to draw the loop and pull
the thread downwards until the needle is clear of the work. This construction
however is open to objection, as it does not effect the desired object with
certainty.
My Invention consists in effecting this object by arresting the motion of the
shuttle, which I effect by causing the oscillating rotary, or reciprocating movement
of the shuttle, or looper to be stopped at that point in its cycle of operation when
the beak hook, or point of the shuttle, or looper has just taken the loop of the
thread from the needle The movement of the shuttle, or looper is stopped until
the needle is clear of the work, when the shuttle resumes its movement and draws
the thread down and passes through the enlarged loop, the shuttle, or looper
preferably having an accelerated or quick motion for the looping operation.
The following illustrates an example of my Invention when applied to a sewing
machine with an oscillating, or rotating shuttle.

page_text: In carrying out my Invention I use a novel form of shuttle, namely I construct
the shuttle thus: the external form of the shuttle is that of a pointed oval with a
bevelled back. The shuttle has a small hooked point, the function of which is to
enter the loop just before the motion of the shuttle is arrested. In order to afford
an easy passage for the loop of the thread over the shuttle, or spool case, the shuttle
hook, or point is cut away at its back with an easy fall from the hook point in the
line of the axis of the oval. The face of the shuttle and hook point are flush,
having a plane surface, but at the hook point I form a small ridge, or projection
flush at the front point and rising gradually for a short distance in line with the
bearing edge of the shuttle. This ridge, or projection is on the face of the shuttle
just clear of the flange of the race hereafter spoken of and has for its object to
prevent the thread entering between the flange of the race and the shuttle. On
the face side of the shuttle, or that side next to the needle, it is flat, or nearly so,
for the reason that on the face side it has to keep flush up to the flange on the
race, so as to enable it to enter the loop of the thread properly, and thus ensure
against the missing of stitches. After the point of the shuttle has entered the loop
and taken up all the slack of the thread below the work, leaving the thread
straight, so that the needle in its upstroke has no slack thread to carry up with it
through the work and thus form a kink, or curl. The shuttle stops namely its
motion is arrested and the needle continues to rise until its eye is clear of the
work. The shuttle now moves forward, enlarges the loop, and passes through it.
At this point, it is necessary that no obstruction should be in the way of the free
passage of the thread, as it is rapidly drawn down across the face of the shuttle to
pass round it to give slack to the other side so as to enlarge the loop sufficiently
for the shuttle to pass through. As the enlargement of the loop is much greater at
the back side of the shuttle, in fact the thread runs perpendicularly, or straight on
the face of the shuttle, whilst all the swell of the loop is at the back side of the
shuttle, or away from the needle. Hence the thread requires to run freely and
without any friction as it all has to pass down from the top bobbin through the
work, round under the shuttle and up at the back, as the thread at the back side
of the shuttle is fast to the work, and cannot give down any slack. Hence all the
slack for the loop of the thread must pass down the face of the shuttle under it
and up at the back with the utmost ease, so as to avoid chafing the thread, as each
part of the thread has to pass and repass many times before it becomes taken up in
the work. Thus suppose it takes two inches of thread to form the loop large
enough for the shuttle to pass through and each stitch only absorbs one eighth
of an inch, it follows that every part of the thread must pass and repass through
the eye of the needle and round the shuttle fifteen times before it is at rest in the
work, during which time the thread undergoes a great amount of wear and tear,
through being so constantly in friction and hence anything that can be done to
lessen that wear and tear, lessens the liability to breakage of thread and must be of
great advantage in work. It thus follows that the form of shuttle that takes the
least quantity of the needle thread to form the loop which it has to pass through
must be the best form to use to save breakage of thread. This object is attained
by the use of the shuttle which has an inclined or bevelled back as hereinafter
mentioned and is so constructed and used that the thread passing at an angle
over the back of the shuttle is used in the smallest quantity. There is another
advantage in the bevel form of the back of the shuttle, namely the impossibility of
the looped thread riding on the back of the shuttle when it is carrying
forward the loop and extending, or swelling it to pass through.
when the shuttle is extending, or swelling the loop to pass through the
end of the needle thread, that forms the loop, and is at the back of the
shuttle and across the shuttle up to and fast to the work, is the tightest
and by leading across the back of the shuttle to the throat plate of the
machine, it must of a necessity, as it is carried forward by the shuttle tend to ride
on the top of the back of the shuttle and thus become jammed in the shuttle race
and break, unless some provision be made to cause it to pass freely over and off the
Tbus

page_text: back of the shuttle, before it is caught in the race. This provision is obtained by
the bevel form of this shuttle as the thread slips off as the shuttle moves forward
in the race. Other forms of shuttle having rounded, ridged grooved, or flat backs
have been used with a spring appliance to cause the loop to clear the shuttle, but
Buch appliances are uncertain in their action and are liable to break and get out of
order, thus causing great delay The bevel form of shuttle is not liable to any of
these drawbacks. Hence the great advantage in its certainty of action without
any of the before named appliances it being a guard in itself. By a bevel shuttle
is meant a shuttle where the face diameter is larger than that of the back diameter,
or whose one side is of larger diameter at the rim than the other side at the rim
whether face, or back. This bevel shuttle being heavier on the side having the
large diameter than it is on the side with the small diameter, has the further
advantage of being easily kept up to contact with the flange on the needle side of
the shuttle race and thus ensuring it being always in the position to take the loop
properly. This is done by allowing the shuttle to rest on the side with the small
diameter, either by putting a slight bevel on the heel, or base of the shuttle where
it rests on the horn of the shuttle carrier, or driver, or by putting a slight bevel
on the horn of the driver, or by slightly bevelling both the shuttle and the horn,
or by merely making the horn take, or bear on one side of the base, or heel of the
shuttle. In either case the shuttle will then rest on the side that is lightest and
furthest from the flange of the race, and resting on that side only it will cause it
to lean the upper, or beaked part against the flange of the race from the
commencement of its forward stroke, until after it has taken the loop and its
motion has been arrested, or stopped before passing the loop. Then as it passes
forward through the loop and tilts over, this leaning action, or tendency being
released by the reverse position of the shuttle, the loop will not be impeded in its
free action over the shuttle. The shuttle then returns to its position ready for
another stitch, when the leaning action will again be brought to bear, to keep the
shuttle in its position in the forward stroke.
This bevel shuttle works in a circular race turned with a bevel to correspond to
the bevel of the shuttle and having a flange on the face side to hold the shuttle in
its place, a part of which flange is made to slide laterally to enable the shuttle to
be taken out, to have the bobbin changed. About a fourth of this bevel race is
hollowed out, or cut away so as to give free action to the loop when it is being
carried forward and extended by the shuttle preparatory to its passing completely
through. If the part of this bevel race were not cut away, or hollowed out to
give free play to the loop it would jam in the race and be broken by the shuttle.
The flange of the shuttle race, which the hook of the shuttle meets when
advancing across the throat of the race is formed with a lip, over which the loop
rides. This in conjunction with the provision on the shuttle before spoken of,
effectually prevents the thread jamming between the shuttle and the race.
The shuttle is operated in the race by means of an oscillating shuttle driver of
ordinary construction, working in the shuttle race and receiving its oscillating,
or rocking motion and its stop from the shuttle shaft and gear hereafter
described.
The shuttle is recessed to receive the bobbin, or thread holder, which is placed
in this recess and retained on one side by a flange forming part of the shuttle, and
on the other by a flush snap ring with two projections, one of which is a small
tenon, which fits into a corresponding mortice in the heel of the shuttle. The
other projection engages with a spring inserted in the front part of the shuttle.
In applying the principle of my Invention, namely the arresting the motion of
the shuttle after it has taken up the loop to rotary hooks, or loopers and to
reciprocating shuttles, such hooks, or loopers or reciprocating shuttles may be of
any known approved construction.
To give the correct motion to the oscillating shuttle above described I use a cam
on the driving shaft of the sewing machine, which cam gives the necessary variable
movement and stop to the shuttle, which it actuates by means of a vertical sliding

page_text: rod enclosed in a guide bracket, which prevents the rod having any lateral motion.
This sliding rod is provided at its upper end with a roller stud that works in the
cam, the lower end of the sliding rod is connected to a crank on the shuttle shaft
by a link; thus as the cam rotates it imparts to the sliding rod, and thereby to the
shuttle shaft a variable motion and stop, or pause which motion and stop or pause
is imparted by the shuttle shaft to the shuttle in its race. The shuttle shaft is in
two lengths, which are coupled together by three discs, or equivalent devices, the
function of which is to give a further variable motion to the shuttle during its
oscillation: The needle being at its lowest point rises and throws out the
loop, which the point, or beak of the shuttle enters and then advances until it has
taken up all the slack of the loop, thus leaving a perfectly straight thread for the
needle to pass up without liability to kink; or curl. The shuttle then stops, or
pauses until the needle has risen up through the work on a straight thread without
causing snip, twist, curl, or kink, thus avoiding any breaking of the thread as the
thread is not drawn until it has a clear hole to pass through. This immunity from
breakage is obtained by giving the stop, or pause to the shuttle after it has
well entered the loop and taken up all the slack of the loop, such stop, or pause
continuing until the needle has risen clear of the work when having the hole made
by the needle in the work clear the shuttle draws down the thread, opens the loop
and passes through, when it again pauses before returning while the take up
draws the thread through and completes the stitch, thus avoiding any friction on
the thread. The shuttle then returns back to the correct position to make another
stitch, where it again pauses to enable the needle to complete its downward stroke,
and rise to throw out the loop, thus there are three distinct motions and stops, or
pauses in every cycle of motion of the shuttle. To enable the operation to be
correctly performed the take up is worked by a suitable form of cam that gives
down just the exact quantity of thread that is required by the needle and shuttle
at the different stages of the stroke, so as to enable the needle and shuttle to
perform their work without having any undue slack in the thread at any time,
which is a great advantage in sewing thick, hard, or heavy work, as undue slack is
apt to kink.
I work the take up by a cam contrivance namely on the end of the
driving shaft at the head of the machine, I employ a crank disc that acts as the
crank for the connecting rod that works the needle bar up and down. I shape
this crank disc into an outside cam of the required form, or I make it a box cam
on the reverse side. In connection with this cam, I have a rocking lever, which
has a roller stud on it, which roller stud runs on this cam and causes the rocking
lever to move up and down and actuate the check lever, or take up, which is thus
mounted namely on the head of the machine, there is a bracket which serves as
the bracket for the check lever, or take up, and at the same time forms a guide for
a vertical sliding bar, which is connected to the check lever by a link or con-
necting rod. This vertical sliding bar has a roller on its lower end, which runs on
the rocking lever before mentioned or in the box cam, as the case may be. The
take up is thus caused to rise and fall in accordance with the motion of the rocking
lever, or the box cam. The check lever passes through a slot in the sliding rod
and is as before stated attached to the rod by a link, thus causing the sliding rod
to impart to the check lever a vertical radial movement. To the sliding bar and
the check lever there is applied a spiral spring or other suitable adjustable buffer
to relieve the check lever from the concussion, or jerk caused by its very sudden
movements, when running at a high speed. The needle bar is worked by a con-
necting rod from the crank disc above mentioned.
In the throat plate of sewing machines, there is a hole for the needle to pass
down to form the loop and this hole is sometimes bushed with a hardened bush to
prevent wear. This hardened bush I carry down to form a needle race. A similar
race having the same object now exists in some sewing machines with the ordinary
reciprocating shuttle but differs in construction from that above described.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Maurice Gandy in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th
May 1883.
MAURICE GANDY, of 5, Ansdell Street Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster,
Manufacturer of Cotton Belting IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO SEWING
MACHINES.
My Invention relates to certain improvements hereinafter more particularly
mentioned and in sewing machines in which are employed either oscillating
shuttles, or rotary shuttles, or reciprocating shuttles, or oscillating hooks, or loopers,
rotating hooks, or loopers, or hook loopers and reciprocating hooks, or loopers, or
hook loopers and provides for the shuttle, hook, or looper taking the loop of the
thread without cutting, or abraiding the thread, thus enabling the sewing machine
to be run at a very bigh speed.
Previous to my Invention to enable the needle to be clear of the work before the
shuttle drew the thread through the work, it has been proposed to construct the
shuttle with a long béak, so as to take the loop, but not to draw the loop and pull
the thread downwards until the needle is clear of the work. This construction
however is open to objection.
My Invention consists in effecting this object by arresting the motion of the
shuttle, which I effect by causing the oscillating, rotary, or reciprocating movement
of the shuttle, or looper, or hook looper to be stopped at that point in its cycle of
operation when the beak hook, or point of the shuttle, or looper has just taken the
loop of the thread from the needle. The movement of the shuttle, or looper is
stopped until the needle is clear of the work, when the shuttle resumes its move-
ment and draws the thread down and passes through the enlarged loop, the shuttle,
or looper preferably having an accelerated, or quick motion for the looping
operation.
The following illustrates an example of my Invention when applied to a sewing
machine with an oscillating, or rotating shuttle.
In carrying out my Invention I use a novel form of shuttle, namely, I construct
the shuttle thus: the external form of the shuttle is that of a pointed oval with a
bevelled back. The shuttle has a small hooked point, the function of which is to
enter the loop just before the motion of the shuttle is arrested. In order to afford
an easy passage for the loop of the thread over the shuttle, or spool case, the
shuttle hook, or point is cut away at its back to receive easy fall from the hook
point in the line of the axis of the oval. The face of the shuttle and hook point
are flush, having a plane surface. In some cases I form at the hook point a small
ridge, or projection, flush at the front point and rising gradually for a short
distance in line with the bearing edge of the shuttle, but this is not essential.
The ridge, or projection is on the face of the shuttle just clear of the flange of the
race hereafter spoken of and has for its object to prevent the thread entering
between the flange of the race and the shuttle on the face side of the shuttle on
that side next to the needle it is flat, or nearly so for the reason that on the face
side it has to keep flush up to the flange on the race so as to enable it to enter the
loop of the thread properly and thus ensure against the missing of stitches. After
the point of the shuttle has entered the loop and taken up all the slack of the
thread below the work leaving the thread straight, so that the needle in its
upstroke has no slack thread to carry up with it through the work and thus form
a kink, or curl, the shuttle stops, namely its motion is arrested, and the needle
continues to rise until the eye is clear of the work. The shuttle now moves
forward, enlarges the loop and passes through it. At this point it is necessary
that no obstruction should be in the way of the free passage of the thread as it is
rapidly drawn down across the face of the shuttle to pass round it to give slack
to the other side so as to enlarge the loop sufficiently for the shuttle to pass
.

page_text: through. As the enlargement of the loop is much greater at the back side of the
shuttle, in fact the thread runs perpendicularly, or straight on the face of the
shuttle, whilst all the swell of the loop is at the back side of the shuttle, or away
from the needle the thread requires to run freely and without any friction as
it all has to pass down from the top bobbin, through the work, round under the
shuttle and up at the back as the thread at the back side of the shuttle is fast to
the work and cannot give down any slack. Hence all the slack for the loop of the
thread must pass down the face of the shuttle, under it and up at the back with
the utmost ease, so as to avoid chafing the thread as each part of the thread has to
pass and repass many times before it becomes taken up in the work. It thus
follows that the form of shuttle that takes the least quantity of the needle thread
to form the loop which it has to pass through, must be the best form to use to save
breakage of thread. This object is attained by the use of the shuttle which has an
inclined, or bevelled back as hereinafter mentioned and is so constructed and used
that the thread passing at an angle over the back of the shuttle is used in the
smallest quantity. There is another advantage in the bevel forin of the back of
the shuttle, namely the impossibility of the looped thread riding on the back of the
shuttle when it is carrying forward the loop and extending, or swelling it to pass
through. Thus when the shuttle is extending, or swelling the loop to pass
through, the end of the end of the needle thread (that forms the loop) and is at
the back side of the shuttle and across the shuttle up to and fast to the work, is
the tightest and by leading across the back side of the shuttle to the throat
plate of the machine, it (the thread) must of a necessity as it is carried
forward by the shuttle, tend to ride on the top of the back of the shuttle and thus
become jammed in the shuttle race and break unless some provision be made to
cause it pass freely over and off the back of the shuttle before it is caught in the
race. This provision is obtained by the bevel form of this shuttle, as the thread
slips off, the shuttle moves forward in the race. Other forms of shuttle having
rounded, ridged, grooved, or flat backs have been used with a spring appliance to
cause the loop to clear the shuttle, but such appliances are uncertain in their action
and are liable to break and get out of order, thus causing great delay. The bevel
form of shuttle is not liable to any of these drawbacks, hence the great advantage
in its certainty of action, without any of the before named appliances, it being a
guard in itself. By a bevel shuttle is meant a shuttle where the segmental face
diameter is larger than that of the back diameter, or whose one side is of larger
diameter at the rim than the other side at the rim whether face, or back.
bevel shuttle being heavier on the side having the large diameter than it is on the
side with the small diameter, has the further advantage of being easily kept up to
contact with the flange on the needle side of the shuttle race, and thus ensuring
it being always in the position to take the loop properly. This is done by allowing
the shuttle to rest on the side with the small diameter, either by putting a slight
bevel on the heel, or base of the shuttle where it rests on the horn of the shuttle
carrier, or driver, or by putting a slight bevel on the horn of the driver, or by
slightly bevelling both the shuttle and the horn, or by merely making the horn
take, or bear on one side of the base, or heel of the shuttle. In either case the
shuttle will then rest on the side that is lightest and furthest from the flange of
the race and resting on that side only it will cause it to lean, or press the upper, or
beaked part against the flange of the race from the commencement of its forward
stroke, until after it has taken the loop and its motion has been arrested, or stopped
before passing the loop. Then as it passes forward through the loop and tilts over,
this leaning action, or tendency being released by the reverse position of the
shuttle, the loop will not be impeded in its free action over the shuttle. The
shuttle then returns to its vertical position ready for another stitch, when the
leaning action will again be brought to bear to keep the shuttle in its position in
the forward stroke. It will be advantageous to form on the face of the shuttle
where the needle works a small rounded projection to catch the shuttle thread and
carry it back clear of the point of the shuttle.
This

page_text: This bevel shuttle works in a circular race turned with a bevel to correspond
to the bevel of the shuttle and having a flange on the face side to hold the shuttle
in its place, a part of which flange is made to slide laterally to enable the shuttle
to be taken out to have the bobbin changed. About a fourth of this bevel race is
hollowed out, or cut away so as to give free action to the loop when it is being
carried forward and extended by the shuttle preparatory to its passing completely
through. If the part of this bevel race were not cut away, or hollowed out to give
free play to the loop the thread might jam in the race and be broken by the shuttle.
The flange of the shuttle race which the hook of the shuttle meets when advancing
across the throat of the race is formed with a lip over which the loop rides. This
in conjunction with the provision on the shuttle before spoken of effectually prevents
the thread jamming between the shuttle and the race.
The shuttle is operated in the race by means of an oscillating shuttle driver of
ordinary construction, working in the shuttle race and receiving its oscillating, or
rocking motion and its stop from the shuttle shaft and gear hereafter described.
The shuttle is recessed to receive the bobbin, or thread holder which is placed
in this recess and may be retained on one side by a flange forming part of the
shuttle and on the other by a flush snap ring with two projections, one of which
is a small tenon, which fits into a corresponding mortice in the heel of the shuttle.
The other projection engages with a spring inserted in the front part of the shuttle,
or other suitable means of retention may be employed.
In applying the principle of my Invention, namely the arresting the motion of
the shuttle after it has taken the loop, to rotary hooks, or loopers and to recipro-
cating shuttles, such hooks, or loopers, or reciprocating shuttles may be of any
known approved construction. It should be noted that when rotary shuttles,
hooks, or loopers are used a means should be employed to cause the crank which
drives such rotary shuttle, hook, or looper to pass over the centre. Such a means
may consist of an oval cam on the shuttle shaft operated upon by reacting springs
as hereinafter more particularly described.
To give the correct motion to the oscillating shuttle above described I use a cam
on the driving shaft of the sewing machine, which cam gives the necessary variable
movement and stop to the shuttle which it actuates by means of a vertical sliding
rod enclosed in a guide bracket, which prevents the rod having any lateral motion.
This sliding rod is provided at its upper end with a roller stud that works in the
cam. The lower end of the sliding rod is connected to a crank on the shuttle shaft
by a link. Thus as the cam rotates it imparts to the sliding rod and thereby to
the shuttle shaft a variable motion and stop, or pause which motion and stop, or
pause is imparted by the shuttle shaft to the shuttle in its race. The shuttle shaft
is in two lengths which are coupled together by three discs, or equivalent devices,
the function of which is to give a further variable motion to the shuttle during its
oscillation. The needle being at its lowest point rises and throws out the loop
which the point, or benk of the shuttle enters and then advances until it has taken
up all the slack of the loop, thus leaving a perfectly straight thread for the needie
to pass up without liability to kink, or curl. The shuttle then stops, or pauses
until the needle bas risen up through the work on a straight thread without
causing snip, twist, curl, or kink, thus avoiding any breaking of the thread as the
thread is not drawn until it has a clear hole to pass through. This immunity
from breakage is obtained by giving the stop, or pause to the shuttle after it has
well entered the loop and taken up all the slack of the loop, such stop, or pause
continuing until the needle and its eye have risen clear of the work. The hole
made by the needle in the work is then clear and the shuttle draws down the
thread, opens the loop and passes through, when it again pauses before returning
while the take up draws the thread through and completes the stitch, thus avoiding
any friction on the thread. The shuttle then returns back to the correct position
to make another stitch where it again pauses to enable the needle to complete its
downward stroke and rise to throw out the loop, thus there are three distinct
motions and stops, or pauses in every cycle of motion of the shuttle, To enable

page_text: the operation to be correctly performed the take up is worked by a suitable form
of cam that gives down just the exact quantity of thread that is required by the
needle and shuttle at the different stages of the stroke, so as to enable the needle
and shuttle to perform their work without having any undue slack in the thread
at any time, which is a great advantage in sewing thick, hard, or heavy work, as
undue slack is apt to kink. I work the take up by a cam contrivance, namely on
the end of the driving shaft at the head of the machine, I employ a crank disc that
acts as the crank for the connecting rod that works the needle bar up and down.
I shape this crank disc into an outside cam of the required form, or I make it a
box cam on the reverse side. In connection with this cam I have a rocking lever,
which has a roller stud on it, which roller stud runs on this cam and causes the
recking lever to move up and down and actuate the check lever, or take up which
is thus mounted, namely on the head of the machine there is a bracket which
serves as the bracket for the check lever, or take up, and at the same time forms a
guide for a vertical sliding bar, which is connected to the check lever by a link, or
connecting rod. This vertical sliding bar has a roller on its lower end, which runs
on the rocking lever before mentioned, or in the box cam as the case may be. The
uptake is thus caused to rise and fall in accordance with the motion of the rocking
Lever, or the box cam. The check lever passes through a slot in the sliding rod
and is as before stated attached to the rod by a link, thus causing the sliding rod
to impart to the check lever .a vertical radial movement. To the sliding bar and
the check lever, there is applied a spiral spring, or other suitable adjustable buffer
to relieve the check lever from the concussion, or jerk caused by its very sudden
movements when running at a high speed. The needle bar is worked by a
connecting rod from the crank disc above mentioned.
The beforegoing being the nature, object and purposes of my Invention I will
now proceed to describe more in detail how the same may be carried out into
practical effect,. and for that purpose I have hereunto attached two sheet of
Drawings, which drawings are marked with letters and figures of reference
corresponding with those used in the following description, like letters and figures
being used to denote the same, or corresponding parts throughout the various
views and figures.

page_text: Figure 20 is a side elevation of a sewing machine arranged to work and operate
a shuttle according to my Invention.
Figure 21 is a back end view of Figure 20.
Figure 22 is a front end view of Figure 20.
In carrying out my Invention I use a novel form of shuttle A, namely, I
construct the shuttle thus: the external form of the shuttle is that of a pointed
oval with a bevelled back a. The shuttle has a small hooked point a', the function
of which is to enter the loop of the thread just before the motion of the shuttle A
is arrested. In order to afford an easy passage for the loop of the thread over the
shuttle A the shuttle hook, or point a' is cut away at its back a' with an easy
fall from the hook point a' in the line of the axis of the oval. The face a³ of the
shuttle and hook point a' are.flush, having a plane surface. In some cases I form
at the hook point a', a small ridge a*, or projection flush at the front point and
rising gradually for a short distance in line with the bearing edge of the shuttle,
but this is not essential. The ridge or projection is on the face of the shuttle A
just clear of the flange b of the race B hereafter spoken of and has for its object to
prevent the thread entering between the flange b of the race B and the shuttle A.
On the face side of the shuttle, or that side next to the needle C it is flat, or nearly
so for the reason that on the face side it has to keep flush up to the flange b on
the race so as to enable it to enter the loop of the thread properly and thus ensure
against the missing of stitches. After the point a¹ of the shuttle has entered the
loop and taken up all the slack of the thread below the work leaving the thread
straight so that the needle C in its upstroke has no slack thread to carry up with
it through the work and thus form a kink, or curl, the shuttle A stops, namely its
motion is arrested and the needle C continues to rise until its eye is clear of the
work. The shuttle A now moves forward, enlarges the loop and passes through it;
At this point it is necessary that no obstruction should be in the way of the freè
passage of the thread as it is rapidly drawn down across the face a³ of the shuttle A
to pass round it to give slack to the other side so as to enlarge the loop
sufficiently for the shuttle A to pass through. As the enlargement of the loop
is much greater at the back side as of the shuttle in fact the thread runs
perpendicularly, or straight on the face a³ of the shuttle A, whilst all the swell of
the loop is at the back side a of the shuttle A or away from the needle C, the
thread requires to run freely and without any friction as it all has to pass down
from the top bobbin through the work round under the shuttle A and up at the
back, as the thread at the back side as of the shuttle A. is fast to the work and
cannot give down any slack. Hence all the slack for the loop of the thread must
pass down the face a of the shuttle A, under it and up at the back side a³ with
the utmost ease so as to avoid chafing the thread as each part of the thread has to
pass and repass many times before it becomes taken up in the work. It thus
follows that the form of shuttle that takes the least quantity of the needle thread
to form the loop which it bas to pass through must be the best form to use to save
breakage of thread. This object is attained by the use of the shuttle A which has
an inclined, or bevel back a as hereinafter mentioned and is so constructed and
used that the thread passing at an angle over the back of the shuttle A is used
in the smallest quantity. There is another advantage in the bevel form of
the back of the shuttle A, namely it prevents the looped thread riding on the
back a of the shuttle when it is carrying forward the loop and extending,
or swelling it to pass through. Thus when the shuttle A is extending, or swelling
the loop to pass through the end of the needle thread that forms the loop and is at
the back side as of the shuttle A and across the shuttle A up to and fast to the
work is the tightest and by leading across the back side as of the shuttle to the
throat plate of the machine, it (the thread) must of a necessity as it is carried
forward by the shuttle A, tend to ride on the top of the back a of the shuttle A
and thus become jammed in the shuttle race B and break unless some provision be
made to cause it to pass freely over and off the back a of the shuttle before it is
caught in the race B. This provision is obtained by the bevel form of this

page_text: shuttle A as the thread slips off as the shuttle A moves forward in the race B.
Other forms of shuttle having rounded, ridged, grooved, or flat backs have been
used with a spring appliance to cause the loop to clear the shuttle A, but such
appliances are uncertain in their action and are liable to break and get out of order
thus causing great delay. The bevel form of shuttle is not liable to any of these
drawbacks hence the great advantage in its certainty of action without any of the
before mentioned appliances it being a guard in itself. By a bevel shuttle is meant
a shuttle where the segmental face diameter is larger than that of the back side
diameter, or whose one side is of larger diameter at the rim than the other side at
the rim whether face, or back side. This bevel shuttle being heavier on the side
having the large diameter than it is on the side with the small diameter has the
further advantage of being easily kept up to contact with the flange b on the
needle C side of the shuttle race B and thus ensuring it being always in
the position to take the loop properly. This is done by allowing the shuttle A
to rest on the back side as with the small diameter either by putting a slight
bevel on the beel aº, or base of the shuttle where it rests on the horn d of the
shuttle carrier, or driver D, or by putting a slight bevel on the horn d of the
driver D, or by slightly bevelling both the shuttle heel a and the horn d, or by
merely making the horn d take, or bear on one side of the base, or heel aº of the
shuttle A. In either case the shuttle A will then rest on the side that is lightest
and furthest from the flange b of the race B and resting on that side only it will
cause it to lean the upper, or beaked part a¹ against the flange 6 of the race. B
from the commencement of its forward stroke until after it has taken the loop and
its motion has been arrested, or stopped before passing the loop. Then as it passes
forward through the loop and tilts over, this leaning action, or tendency being
released by the reverse, position of the shuttle A the loop will not be impeded in its
free action over the shuttle A. The shuttle then returns to its vertical position
ready for another stitch when the leaning action will again be brought to bear to
keep the shuttle A in its position in the forward stroke. It will be advantageous
to form on the face of the shuttle where the needle works a small rounded pro-
jection a to catch the shuttle thread and carry it back clear of the point of the
shuttle. This bevel shuttle A works in a circular race B turned with a bevel to
correspond to the bevel of the shuttle A and having a flange b on the face side to
hold the shuttle A in its place, a part of which flange is made to slide laterally
at b¹ to enable the shuttle A to be taken out to have the bobbin changed. About
a fourth of this bevel race B is hollowed out, or cut away at b² so as to give free
action to the loop when it is carried forward and extended by the shuttle A
preparatory to its passing completely through. Were the part of this bevel race B
not cut away at 6, or hollowed out to give free play to the loop the thread might
jam in the race B and be broken by the shuttle A. The flange of the shuttle race b
which the hook a¹ of the shuttle A meets when advancing across the throat b³ of
the race B, is formed with a lip b* over which the loop rides. This in conjunction
with the provision a' on the shuttle before spoken of effectually prevents the
thread jamming between the shuttle and the race.
The shuttle is operated in the race B by means of an oscillating shuttle driver of
ordinary construction working in the shuttle race and receiving its oscillating, or
rocking motion and its stop from the shuttle shaft and gear hereafter described.
The shuttle A is recessed to receive the bobbin, or threadholder, which is placed
in this recess and may be retained on one side by a flange forming part of the
shuttle and on the other by a flush snap ring e with two projections, one of which
6¹ is a small tenon which fits into a corresponding mortice in the heel of the shuttle
the other projection e engages with a spring e inserted in the front part of the
shuttle A or other suitable means of retention may be employed.
In applying the principle of my Invention, namely the arresting the motion of
the shuttle after it has taken the loop to rotary hooks, or loopers, or reciprocating
shuttles, such hooks, or loopers, or reciprocating shuttles may be of any known
approved construction.

page_text: To give the correct motion to the oscillating shuttle above described I use a
cam F on the driving shaft H of the sewing machine which cam F gives the
necessary variable movement and stop to the shuttle A which it actuates by
means of a vertical sliding rod J enclosed in a guide bracket J¹ which prevents
the rod J having any lateral motion. This sliding rod J is provided at its
upper end with a roller stud J' that works in the cam F. The lower end of
the sliding rod J is connected to a crank K on the shuttle shaft L by a link J.
Thus as the cam F rotates it imparts to the sliding rod J and thereby to the
shuttle shaft La variable motion and stop, or pause which motion and stop, or
pause is imparted by the shuttle A in its race B. The shuttle shaft L is
in two lengths which are coupled together by the three discs M, M³, M', shown
at Figures 13, 14 and 15, the function of which is to give a further variable
motion to the shuttle A during its oscillation. The needle O being at its lowest
point rises and throws out the loop which the point, or beak a¹ of the shuttle A
enters and then advances until it has taken up all the slack of the loop, thus
leaving a perfectly straight thread for the needle C to pass up without liability to
kink, or curl. The shuttle A then stops, or pauses until the needle C has risen up
through the work on a straight thread without causing snip, twist, kink, or curl,
thus avoiding any breakage of the thread as the thread is not drawn until it has a
clear hole to pass through. This immunity from breakage is obtained by giving
the stop or pauses to the shuttle A after it has well entered the loop and taken up
all the slack of the loop such stop, or pause continuing until the needle and its eye
have risen clear of the work. The hole made by the needle in the work is then
clear and the shuttle A draws down the thread, opens the loop and passes through,
when it again pauses before returning, while the take up N draws the thread
through and completes the stitch, thus avoiding any friction on the thread. The
shuttle A then returns back to the correct position to make another stitch, where
it again pauses to enable the needle to complete its downward stroke and rise to
throw out the loop, thus there are three distinct motions and stops, or pauses in
every cycle of motion of the shuttle. To enable the operation to be correctly
performed the take up N is worked by a suitable form of cam N¹ that gives down
just the exact quantity of thread that is required by the needle C and shuttle A at
the different stages of the stroke so as to enable the needle C and shuttle to perform
their work without having any undue slack in the thread at any time, which is a
great advantage in sewing thick, hard, or heavy work as undue slack is apt to
kink. I work the take up N by a cam contrivance N¹, namely on the end of the
driving shaft H at the head of the machine I employ a crank disc H¹ that acts as
the crank for the connecting rod C¹ that works the needle bar C³ up and down.
I shape this crank disc H' into an outside cam N' of the required form, or I make
it a box cam on the reverse side. In connection with this can I have a rocking
lever N which has a roller stud N³ on it, which roller stud N³ runs on the cam Ni
and causes the rocking lever N° to move up and down and actuate the check lever,
or take up N, which is thus mounted, namely, on the head of the machine there is
a bracket n, which serves as the bracket for the check lever, or take up N and at
the same time forms a guide for a vertical sliding bar n¹ which is connected to the
check lever N by a link, or connecting rod n³. This vertical sliding bar n¹ has a
roller n³ on its lower end, which runs on the rocking lever N' before mentioned, or
in the box cam as the case may be. The take up N is thus caused to rise and fall
in accordance with the motion of the rocking lever N³, or the box cam N'. The
check lever N passes through a slot in the sliding rod n¹ and is as before stated
attached to the rod by a link n², thus causing the sliding rod n¹ to impart to the
check lever N a vertical radial movement. To the sliding bar n¹ and to the check
lever N there is applied a spiral spring n', or other suitable adjustable buffer to
relieve the check lever N from the concussion, or jerk caused by its very sudden
movements when running at a very high speed. The needle bar C is worked by
a connecting rod C' from the crank disc H as above mentioned.
In applying the principle of my Invention, namely the arresting the motion of

page_text: the shuttle, shuttle hook, or looper after it has taken the loop of the needle thread, to
oscillating, or rotary shuttle-hooks, or loopers as for instance to the shuttle-hook,
or looper shown in Figures 16, 17 and 18 in which A is the shuttle-hook, or looper
carried on the end of the shuttle shaft L, the bobbin (see Figure 18) fits in the
centre of the shuttle-hook, or looper as shown at Figure 18 The shuttle-hook, or
looper A may be operated by the; mechanism described in reference to Figures 11
and 12 the pause in the movement of the shuttle hook, or looper taking place
when the point, or look al has entered the loop of the needle thread, namely
when it is in the position shown in Figure 18 and otherwise in the same manner
and for the same purpose as when I use the bevelled back shuttle herein
described.
In the case of oscillating shuttle hooks, or loopers I prolong the horn / of the
shuttle-hook, or looper as shown by the dotted line h', Figure 16, and set it over
the bevelled face of the shuttle-hook, or looper to prevent the lower thread from
catching on the horn h of the shuttle hook, or looper A on the return movement.
It should be noted that when using the shuttle-hook, or looper shown at
Figures 16, 17 and 18 as a rotary shuttle-hook, or looper a means should be
employed to cause the crank K which drives the shuttle shaft L (see Figure 19) to
pass over its centres. Such a means may consist of the double cam K¹ operated
upon by the reacting spring actuated runners K' arranged as shown. This
mechanism overcomes the liability of the crank K and thereby the shuttle-hook, or
Tooper to stop on the centres. In lieu of this arrangement other suitable means
may be employed, the motion being imparted to the crank K and shaft L by a cam
equivalent to that shown at Figures 11 and 12 but arranged to give the requisite
rotary movement.
In applying the principle of my Invention, namely the arresting the motion of
the shuttle, to reciprocating shuttles the point of the shuttle enters the loop of the
needle thread and then stops, or pauses until the needle has risen clear of the work
when the shuttle resumes its forward movement, extending the loop and passing
therethrough. To facilitate the passage of the shuttle through the loop of the
thread the lower face edge of the shuttle is rounded. The shuttle being driven by
the mechanism shown in Figures 11 and 12.
Having now described my Invention and shown how the same may be carried
out into practical effect, what I claim as the Invention secured to me by the
herein before in part recited Letters Patent is
In sewing machines in which shuttles, hooks, or loopers are employed the mode
substantially herein described of operating the shuttle, or hook, or looper with
reference to the needle, which mode consists of arresting the motion of the shuttle,
or hook, or looper at the stage of its cycle of operation where its point enters the
loop of the needle thread and of holding it in that position until the needle is clear
of the fabric, the shuttle, or book, or looper then resuming its motion, distending,
passing through the loop and drawing down the thread, substantially as described.
In Witness whereof, I the said Maurice Gandy have hereunto set my hand
and seal this Twenty fifth day of May in the year of our Lord one
thousand eight hundred and eighty three.
Witness
FREDERICK JOHN CHEESBROUGH
Patent Agent
15 Water Street
Liverpool.
MAURICE (L.S.) GANDY