IMPROVEMENTS IN FIGURED FABRICS, AND IN THE METHOD OF WEAVING THE SAME
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Makin and Jabez Edward Johnson-Ferguson, both of
Bolton, in the County of Lancaster, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
FIGURED FABRICS, AND IN THE METHOD OF WEAVING THE SAME."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Makin and Jabez
Johnson-Ferguson at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the
27th October 1881.
JOHN MAKIN and JABEZ EDWARD JOHNSON-FERGUSON, both of Bolton, in the
County of Lancaster. "IMPROVEMENTS IN FIGURED FABRICS, AND IN THE
METHOD OF WEAVING THE SAME.'
The Invention relates to the manufacture of a certain class of figured fabrics
used principally for bed quilts, wherein a raised white figure is produced upon a
colored ground, the colors being reversed at the back.
Our improved fabric is made with two shuttles, one carrying a coarse weft, and
the other a fine weft. It takes four picks to form the pattern. There are also
two warps, one fine and one coarse.
The face of the fabric has a corded ground formed by both warps interwoven
with the fine weft, whilst the pattern is formed of a separate and distinct cloth
woven with the coarse weft and warp only, whilst the fine weft and warp make a
separate cloth at the back; the figure is thus raised and a pocket is formed
between it and the back cloth.
This cloth is woven in a loom provided with a "jacquard macbine" and two
healds as follows:-
:-
In the first pick a shed is made with the machine up and one heald raised; one
pick of thick weft is put in this shed, another shed is then made with the machine
up, but the first heald is lowered and the second heald raised; these two healds
form calico and bind the thick weft which has gone through, and which forms the
figure on the cloth.
The machine then goes down and one of the pressing boards comes up along
with both the healds; a pick of fine weft is put through this shed; the first presser

page_text: board then goes down and the second presser board comes up, the two healds still
remaining up; another pick of fine weft is put through this shed; these two line
picks form the ground.
Two warps are used in the making of this cloth; the first, which is called the
back warp, and is put in the mounting attached to the machine is used for forming
the figure on the cloth along with the thick weft, and the second, which is called
the face warp, and is put through the healds is used for binding the figure on the
cloth.
We have therefore four picks, in which the machine is up two picks and down
two picks, and the two pressing boards are up alternately one pick and down three
picks, and the two healds are down one pick alternately and up three picks.
The two pressing boards weave calico in the two picks in which the machine is
down, and the fine weft is put through these two sheds and forms the ground.
The yarn is drawn in the reed in the following manner:-Two ends from the
back warp and one end from the face warp are drawn into one dent or space of
the reed, the fine end from the face warp being drawn between the two ends from
the back warp.
The figure in this cloth is therefore made with the thick weft, the yarn in the
mounting being left down where the figure is required, and the ground is made
with the fine weft and the yarn from the back warp weaving calico.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Makin and Jabez Edward Johnson-Ferguson in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 27th April 1882.
JOHN MAKIN and JABEZ EDWARD JOHNSON-FERGUSON, both of Bolton, in the
County of Lancaster. "IMPROVEMENTS IN FIGURED FABRICS, AND IN THE
METHOD OF WEAVING THE SAME."
This Invention relates to the manufacture of a certain class of figured fabrics
used principally for bed quilts, wherein a raised white figure is produced upon a
colored ground, the colors being reversed at the back.
Our improved fabric is made with two shuttles, one carrying a coarse weft and
the other a fine weft. It takes four picks to form the pattern. There are also two
warps, one fine and one coarse.
The face of the fabric has a corded ground formed by both warps interwoven
with the fine weft, whilst the pattern is formed of a separate and distinct cloth
woven with the coarse weft and warp only, whilst the fine weft and warp make a
separate cloth at the back; the figure is thus raised and a "pocket" is formed
between it and the back cloth.
This cloth is woven in a loom provided with a jacquard machine and two healds
as follows:-
In the first pick a shed is made with the machine up and one heald raised; one
pick of thick woft is put in this shed; another shed is then made with the machine
up, but the first heald is lowered and the second heald raised; these two healds
form calico and bind the thick weft which has gone through and which forms the
figure on the cloth.
The machine then goes down and one of the pressing boards comes up along with
both the healds; a pick of fine weft is put through the shed; the first presser
board then goes down, and the second presser board comes up, the two healds still
remaining up; another pick of fine weft is put through this shed; these two fine
picks form the ground.
Two warps are used in the making of this cloth, the first (which is called the
back warp, and is put in the mounting attached to the machine) is used for forming
the figure on the cloth along with the thick weft, and the second (which is called
the face warp and is put through the healds) is used for binding the figure on the
cloth.
We have therefore four picks, in which the machine is up two picks and down
two picks, and the two pressing boards are up alternately one pick and down three
picks, and the two healds are down one pick alternately and up three picks.
The two pressing boards weave calico in the two picks in which the machine is
down, and the fine weft is put through these two sheds and forms the ground.
The yarn is drawn in the reed in the following manner-Two ends from the
back warp and one end from the face warp are drawn into one dent or space of the
reed, the fine end from the face warp being drawn between the two ends from
the back warp.
The figure in this cloth is therefore made with the thick weft, the yarn in the
mounting being left down where the figure is required, and the ground is made
with the fine weft, and the yarn from the back warp weaving calico.
Having now described the nature and object of our said Invention together with
the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into
practical effect, we wish it to be understood that we claim as our Invention, the

page_text: improvements in figured fabrics, and in the method of weaving the same, as
hereinbefore particularly described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Jabez Edward Johnson-Ferguson (on behalf
of myself and the said John Makin), have hereunto set my hand and seal,
this Twenty fifth day of April, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty two.
J. E. JOHNSON-FERGUSON. (L.S.)