Improvements in Apparatus or Appliances for use in the Drafting or Cutting Out of Garments.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Sept., 1893--Accepted, 4th Nov., 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus or Appliances for use in the Drafting
or Cutting Out of Garments.
I, JAMES BOND, of Longton, near Preston, in the County of Lancaster, Joiner
and Builder, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention has reference to apparatus or appliances for use in the drafting or
cutting out of garments, aud is designed with the object of producing an appliance
which will prevent the necessity for the stocking of numbers of paper blocks or
other similar patterns, as has hitherto been the case, and which shall form a more
handy and at the same time a strong and durable substitute therefor.
It consists essentially in constructing the appliance, which constitutes the block
or pattern by which the garment is to be drafted or marked out upon the cloth or
material from which it is to be produced, of a light framework, preferably of wood,
though metal or any other suitable material may be employed, in the shape of the
draft of the desired garment, and constructing the several parts or pieces with
joints or connections by which they may be lengthened or shortened as required to
suit the measurements or dimensions of the garment to be produced.
The invention will be fully described with reference to the accompanying
drawings, wherein, as an example, it is shown as applied to a ladies dress bodice and
in which
Fig. 1 shows the appliance or block as constructed for drafting the fore-part of
the bodice.
Fig. 2 a section of same on line a-b.
Fig. 3 the block of the back and side body of the bodice.
Fig. 4 the block of the sleeve.
Fig. 5 the block of the collar.
Fig. 6 the block of the basque for attachment to the bottom of the fore-part of
the bodice and
Fig. 7 the back and under arm piece of the basque.
The parts or pieces from which the blocks are built up or constructed are prefer-
ably made of mahogany or other hard wood though they may be made of any
suitable metal or other material and are made to assume the shape of the draft of
the garment to be produced, as in pieces B and B¹ shown in Figs. 1 and 3 which
form the scye or arms eye and which are formed of the required shape or curve for
this part.
Each of the parts or pieces which require adjustment relative to the other parts
are provided with longitudinal slots or slits a through which screws or studs are
passed which clamp or hold the pieces together at the several joints. The shoulder
pieces C and D (Figs. 1 and 3) are clamped or secured to the scye or arms eye
pieces B and B by the screws or studs 6 and this in turn is clamped to the piece E
forming the neck by its screw or stud b.
The requisite pieces or parts will be marked or provided with scales or dimensions
to provide for their ready adjustment to the measurements or dimensions of the
garment to be cut.
In Figs. 1 and 3 the pieces F F are marked in a scale to correspond with the
bust measurement from 30 up to 50 or other convenient size beginning at about
6 inches from the upright pieces A and A'. The piece G is marked with a scale
of say 20 to 45 inches to correspond with the waist measurement as is also the
piece G¹ the scale in this latter case being preferably reduced to half that on the
piece G and placed on both ends.. The collar piece E is marked in inches for

page_text: width and about 1 inch larger than the actual measurement to allow for the sewing.
The piece E' is marked with a scale to suitably correspond with the bust measure-
ment. The upright piece A is marked with a scale at the lower end to correspond
with the measurements for the length of waist and the upright piece A' is marked
with a scale corresponding with the measurement from the back of the collar to the
bottom of the back. The V shaped pieces M M' indicate the darts to be cut
out to ensure the proper fitting of the bodice above the waist. The position of
these are adjusted by the two intermediate scales on the piece G Fig. 6 the scale on
the top edge being for the adjustment of the dart piece M¹ under the arm and the
scale on the bottom edge for the adjustment of the dart piece M' nearest to the
front. The sizes or widths of the darts should be about as follows:-

page_text: The scales on the several parts are in the first instance ascertained by actual
experiment and may be altered for different blocks to suit different styles of
garments.
When the several parts have been adjusted or set to the several measurements
the block is transferred to the cloth or material from which the garment is to be
produced and chalked or otherwise marked out thereon by passing the chalk or
pencil round the several pieces forming the block. In case the inside of the block
is set to the measurements the chalk in addition to being passed round the inside
may be passed round the outside of the frame or block and the difference
representing the width of the frame employed as the inlay or for the seams.
After being chalked or marked out on the material the block is removed and the
draft then cut out from the material and made up in the ordinary way.
Although the invention is herein described with reference only to the production
of a block or pattern for use in marking or cutting out a ladies garment it will
be understood that the principle of the invention may be applied to the construction
of blocks or patterns for the cutting out of all sorts of garments and for the wear
of either sex.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. An apparatus or appliance for use in the drafting or cutting out of garments
constructed of a series of parts or pieces in the form of a light frame work the
several parts capable of being lengthened or shortened at their joints or
connections to adjust the same to different measurements or varying sizes of
garments substantially as described.
2. An appliance for use in the drafting of garments constructed of several pieces
or parts forming a light frame work the several parts being provided with
longitudinal elots and scales or dimensions by means of which they may be
adjusted to the dimensions of the garment to be produced and through which slots
they may when set or adjusted be clamped together by means of screws or bolts
substantially as described.
3. Blocks or appliances for use in the drafting or cutting out of garments
constructed and arranged substantially as described and shown.
Dated this 29th day of September 1893.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester, Patent Agents.