Year: 1885

page_text: Í ABRAHAM MITCHELL, of the firm of Messieurs Mitchell Brothers, Manufacturers
Manchester Road, Bradford in the County of York, do hereby declare the hature of
this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to certain improvements in woven fabrics in which the
weft or yarn has hitherto been straight such as plain, Twills, Laces and Figures,.
The object of the invention is to produce upon the surface of, such fabrics, an
undulating effect known in the dress world as bouclé so much in demand at
the present time.
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Hitherto the object of all good spinners is to produce a straight yarn (with the
exception of loop or knickerbocker yarns) but in order to produce the desired effect
upon the class of fabrics mentioned I, designedly produce, a yarn or weft of any
fibre which is known as "crimpy" or bad yarn. With such weft or yarn the piece
is woven in the ordinary way on an ordinary loom and what is termed a straight
piece is produced having only a slightly different appearance to a piece woven with
straight yarn. On immersing the piece, in water, a shrinkage of the crimpy weft
takes place and the desired effect is produced, and with this further result, that it
is next to impossible to follow the direction of the weft, In the case of mohair
weft and cotton warp, the fabric has all the appearance of silk, due, no doubt to
the light and shade caused by the surface undulations.
As to how the weft or yarn is produced, it may be done in several ways, two of
which I mention, The first is made from ordinary roving and the substitution
of the ordinary wood carriers on the Spinning frame by Iron ones. The effect is
to draw the fibre tighter between the back and front rollers, that it naturally would
be, that is to say, a 12" length of fibre is drawn say to 121" or 12" and when
wound on to the bobbin the weft or yarn in the endeavour to shrink to 12"
produces a crimpy yarn.
This effect can also be produced by making a very strong roving and spinning
the weft or yarn with the ordinary carrier but I prefer the first mentioned.
.1. ยุ
1005

page_text: I, ABRAHAM MITCHELL, of the firm of Messieurs Mitchell Brothers, Manchester
Road, Bradford in the County of York, Spinners and Manufacturers, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention relates. to certain improvements in woven fabrics in which the
weft or yarn has hitherto been straight, such for example as Plain Twills, Laces,
Figures and other fabrics in which the yarn used either for warp or weft in the
weaving of the fabric has hitherto been straight. The object of the invention is
to produce upon the surface of all such fabrics, an undulating or wavy effect, known
in the dress world as "boucle," so much in demand at the present time.
Hitherto the object of all good spinners is to produce a straight yarn (with the
exception of loop, knickerbocker, and other fancy yarns) but in order to produce
the undulating or wavy effect upon the fabric, I designedly produce a yarn of any
fibre, which is known in the trade as "crimpy" or "bad yarn " and which may be
used either for the weft or warp of the fabric. With such yarn the piece is woven
in the ordinary way by an ordinary loom, producing what is termed a straight
piece, having only a slightly different appearance, when woven, to a piece woven
with straight yarn.
On immersing the piece in water, a shrinkage of the yarn takes place and the
undulating or wavy effect is produced with this further result, that it is next to
impossible to follow the direction of the weft. In the case of mohair weft and
cotton warp, the fabric has all the appearance of silk, due no doubt, to the light
and shade caused by the surface undulations.
With regard to figured fabrics, in addition to the undulating effect produced on
the fabric in the manner before described, I find that on producing the figures by
throwing the weft over a number of warp threads and when the fabric is immersed
in water for undulating the same, the weft thus thrown over the warp threads not
being held as secure as in the plain part of the piece, in shrinking rise above the
body of the piece to the configuration of the design. When weaving pile fabrics,
say for example the class commonly known as " Seal skins" the pile is formed in
the usual manner; but the yarn composing the weft or warp is prepared according
to my invention so that when the piece is immersed in water the body of the same
shrinks and thus produces an undulating wavy effect.
The crimpy" or "bad yarn" may be produced in several ways, two of which
are as follows The first is made from ordinary roving and the substitution of the
ordinary wood-carriers on the spinning frame by iron ones, which being heavier,
the fibre is drawn tighter between the back and front rollers than it is when light
carriers are used, that is to say, by reason of the pressure of the carriers, the fibre
of say 12 inches in length is drawn or stretched to say 121 or 12 inches long, and
when woven with the piece and immersed in water, the yarn, in the endeavour to
shrink back to 12 inches, produces the undulating effect to the fabric,

page_text: The yarn may also be produced by making a very strong roving, and spinning
the yarn with the ordinary carriers. By the extra amount of draft required to
reduce the strong roving to the necessary thickness of the yarn, the fibre is stretched
between the front and back rollers, thus obtaining the same results as when iron
carriers are used.
In the Provisional Specification I make mention that during the operation of
spinning, the fibre is stretched, and when wound on to the bobbin in the endeavour
to shrink to its original length, produces a crimpy yarn; which is at variance with
the preceding part of the specification. When the fibre is stretched and the yarn
wound on to the bobbin, I wish it to be understood that the shrinkage does not
take place until after the yarn is woven into the piece and immersed in water as
stated in the third paragraph of my provisional Specification.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
The producing of an undulating or wavy effect on the surface of fabrics by the
stretching of the fibre in the process of spinning and the immersing of the fabric
in water, substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein set forth.