Improvements in Jacquard Apparatus.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 31st July, 1895-Accepted, 7th Dec., 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by THOMAS HENRY GARVIE, of Tyrardow, Russia,
Mill Manager.]
Improvements in Jacquard Apparatus.
I WILLIAM HENRY TAYLOR of 2 New Bridge Street Manchester in the
County of Lancaster, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manuer the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
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This invention relates to improvements in Jacquard apparatus more especially
designed for weaving goods known as double damasks and the like. The object
of the invention is to avoid the use of front heddles which in the present jacquards
cause great friction on the yarn; to enable what is known as a standing shed
to be obtained so that the yarn is much less strained; to reduce the friction of the
neck cords; to economise motive power whilst increasing the production of the
machine; to enable finer yarns to be worked on jacquards than formerly to
arrange the griffes so that the figures forming the pattern only require to be
"drawn" and this in a simpler manner and generally to improve the construction
of the jacquard.
The invention will be fully described with reference to the accompanying
drawings in which
Fig. 1 is a front view of the improved machine
Fig. 2 a partial cross-section
Fig. 3 a plan and
Figs. 4 to 14 views of details which will be hereinafter referred to.
In these A is the framework of the machine built somewhat after the ordinary
manner and supported in the usual way on the upper part of the loom.
The
machine is provided with two sets of griffes B and C. The lower set B is movable
that is to say it has a rising and falling movement which is obtained by any of
the meaus usually employed in jacquards whilst the upper griffe C is stationary.
D is the ordinary cylinder batten carrying at its lower end the card cylinders a
and b. The batten has a to and fro movement imparted to it about the pivots b
in the usual way.
The cylinders a and b whilst being mounted on the same shaft
are independant of each other and may be rotated separately. The middle cylinder a
is preferably a wooden one and is used with its pattern cards to obtain the figuring
of the fabric whilst the cylinders b are preferably of iron and with their cards are
employed to obtain the twilling figure and ground of the fabric. F is a series of
hooks provided with two or more bends, arranged as in ordinary jacquards and G is
another series of hooks of thick wire each of which is connected with one of the
bars of griffe B. These hooks are acted upon by the thick needles P surrounded
by springs R' so as to cause the bars 6" of grifte B to oscillate or turn on their
axes. H are hooks of thick wire for operating the bars e of griffe C and K are
wire rods upon which the lower part of hooks F rest. These bars c are kept in
position by slotted grids t. T are hooks connected with the rods K for the purpose
of raising them. L is the bottom board and N is the needle board constructed in
three parts the centre portion serving to guide the ordinary needles whilst the two
end portions guide the thick needles. The needles are indicated by the letters O
and P those marked O having two or more loops according to whether the damask

page_text: is to be two or more corded. The needles marked P are thick ones and work the
hooks H and G.
Having indicated the various detail parts of the machine I may say that the
principal novelty of my invention consists in a special arrangement of the bars bl
and c and hooks connected with them.
The
In contrast to the bars of the ordinary jacquards, the bars 6" and c are movable.
As will be seen from Figs. 1 and 2 each bar is provided at each end with small
pivots and which pass into corresponding holes in the griffes B and C.
needles have two or more loops and the ordinary hooks two bends as will be seen
in the detail views Figs. 4 to 8. Instead of having several mails to one cord or
hook, there is for each mail a separate hook and cord. As many mails as there
are generally in double damasks (pressure harness) to one cord there are hooks to
one needle.
It is however not advantageous to have more than three hooks to one needle.
In the paper cards only the pattern or figure is cut, the twill both in figure and
ground being formed by the movable bars of the griffe B. The range of movement
of these bars is determined as is also their exact position by small lugs B₁ projecting
from the sides of the griffe. Firmly fixed to the bars 6 at each end by means
of small eye bolts B₁ (see Fig. 5) are a number of thick hooks G acted upon by
the needles P.
Supposing with the mechanism referred to it is desired to work double damask
in a 600 or 800 jacquard two mails to the cord, eight needles or rows of needles
in the cylinder and eight-leaf satin twill there would be to every needle O two
loops and two hooks F, consequently sixteen rows of hooks and a corresponding
number of griffe bars-only a few of each are indicated on the drawings to save
confusion. The rows of hooks must be divisible by the twill, eight leaf twill, 16 or
As in this case the twill is an eight-leaf satin there is necessary a set
of eight thick needles P which are acted upon by an eight sided cylinder with
holes bored into it, to suit the twill, or a square cylinder may be used in which
case it would be necessary to use iron cards with holes arranged to give a
repeat of twill. To each needle P there are two hooks G and two corresponding
griffe bars B.
24 rows.
The first needle will have 1 and 9 hook, second needle 2 and 10 hooks and bars,
third needle 3 and 11 hooks and so on.
In operating under these conditions the cylinder a together with the small
cylinders which turn on the same shaft as a but act independently of it, are
pressed against the needle board N, the needle P is pressed back causing the
hooks G with which it is connected to move bars 1 and 9 of griffe B on their axes.
The upper edges of the bars are thereby turned away from under the bends of the
hooks F and the 1st and 9th rows of hooks remain down when the griffe B is
raised by the usual lifting mechanism-see Figs. 4 to 8.
This occurs when there is a blank in the cylinder & opposite the needle P which
acts on hooks of 1st and 9th bars. If there is a hole in the cylinder, needle P
remains in its normal position the hooks G do not move the bars and consequently
the latter lift the hooks F which are to form the pattern the same way as in an
ordinary jacquard. By this movement of the upper edges of the bars of griffe B
they are turned towards the front and are brought under the bends of hooks J of
the preceding row of hooks, the bends of which are turned the reverse way towards
the back of machine. When the griffe B is raised the hooks J raise the one
rod K of 8th row and rod K of the 16th row of hooks, and all the hooks F which
are on those rows--see Fig. 8. By these means if the hooks of the preceding
rows 8 to 16 are raised, the twill of the ground is formed by the raised row and of
the figure by the row which is down. With an eight leaf twill at second pick
there will be in action the third needle with 3 and 11 bars; at third pick fifth
needle and bars 5 and 13 and so on till repeat of twill is finished.
In double damasks usually several picks to the card are taken and for this

page_text: purpose there is the following arrangement:-The catch S Figs. 9 and 10 which
turns the cylinder a with pattern cards has a pin U in the centre which is placed
above a small iron cylinder V provided with ordinary iron pattern cards. This
cylinder is attached to a slide bar W, Figs. 11 and 12, which by means of levers is
moved up and down by an eccentric or tappet X' on the crank shaft X" of
loom. The latter arrangement is shown in Figs. 13 and 14 where X is the lever
corresponding to that shown in Figs. 11 and 12. The outer end of the latter is
connected by a link with a lever a fixed on a shaft on which is another
lever This is in turn coupled to a link y the lower end of which is attached
to the end of a pivoted lever operated by the eccentric X¹. At every revolution
of the crank shaft the cylinder is turned one side by a special catch. As the
motion is a vertical one the cylinder V is pressed against pin U and if the iron
card has a hole in it then the catch (S) remains in its normal position, and the
cylinder a is turned. If there is a blank in the card the catch S is lifted and
The
does not turn a. By proper arrangement of cards on cylinder V it is possible to
give the number of picks to card which is required. The small iron cylinder b
(twilling motion) are turned at every pick by other catches S¹ in the ordinary way.
Besides other advantages the new mechanism has another advantage, the open
standing shed. To reduce the strain on the yarn, the friction of mails in comber
board, and to economise the motive power, the ends which are required for the
pattern are raised only once forming an upper shed and remain in this position
until pattern is finished excepting where it is necessary to drop them to give the
binding twill to pattern. This purpose is effected by the following means.
hooks which are required to weave the pattern, are raised by griffe bars B and
slip on to the upper edge of the bars of fixed griffe C which are in a sloping
position and remain hanging on them with the upper bends when the griffe B
descends again. If at a following pick any of those hooks are pressed back by
needle they slip off the upper edge of the bars of griffe C and fall down into
the under shed. The hooks which are required to form the twill of the figure act
in following manner. The upper bars C are connected with thick hooks (H) and
a set of needles P and are acted upon by same cylinder b and form the twill
similar to bars of B by moving the bars away from under the upper bends of
hooks F. If 1st needle is pressed back by cylinder bit moves the hooks H and
the bars connected with them, (1 and 9) from under hooks F Eo that those descend
into under shed. The order in which the bars are to be moved is arranged by
iron cylinders b. The movements of the griffe and cylinder are obtained in a
similar manner to those in an ordinary jacquard namely by rods and levers. The
new mechanism can be adapted to the different guages of jacquard, common coarse
guage, Vienna guage and also the French guage system of Visconti.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention as communicated to me by my foreign correspondent, and in what
manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
(1.) In Jacquard apparatus of the indicated nature the special arrangement of
moveable griffe bars B for working (without using front heddles) the twill of the
pattern and the specially constructed hooks and needles (G and P) acted upon by
the additional cylinders substantially as described.
(2.) In Jacquard apparatus of the indicated nature the use of hooks J and
rods K for binding the ground twill of the fabric being woven substantially as
described.
"
(3.) In Jacquard apparatus of the indicated nature the arrangement of the
upper griffe C by means of which it is possible to have an open standing shed"
substantially as and for the purposes described.
(4.) In Jacquard apparatus of the indicated nature means for regulating the
number of picks to card consisting of the special cylinder V with slide W acting
on catch S of cylinder a, substantially as described.

page_text: (5.) The improvements in Jacquard apparatus of the indicated nature constructed
and arranged substantially as and for the purposes described and as indicated on
the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 20th day of July 1895
WILLIAM H. TAYLOR,
Applicant.