IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING LINEN OR OTHER FABRICS TO PRODUCE PLAITS OR FOLDS THEREIN
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Fawcett the younger, of Lisburn, in the
County of Antrim, Ireland, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
WEAVING LINEN OR OTHER FABRICS TO PRODUCE PLAITS OR FOLDS THEREIN."
Sealed the 17th August 1854, and dated the 17th February 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Fawcett at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 17th
February 1854.
I, THOMAS FAWCETT the younger, of Lisburn, in the County of Antrim,..
Ireland, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN WEAVING LINEN OR OTHER FABRICS TO PRODUCE PLAITS OR FOLDS THEREIN " to be
as follows:-
My Invention consists of certain new arrangements in looms, for weaving,
to produce plaits or folds in textile fabrics. Upon drawing a thread, which is
woven in by the loom as the fabric is manufactured, the plaits or folds when so
drawn have the appearance of being sewn by hand; and when fine linen is.thus
manufactured it may be used for shirt fronts or other purposes without
requiring any additional sewing. Fig. 1, on the accompanying Drawings,.
represents a front elevation of a portion of a loom with my improvements
applied thereto. Fig. 2 is a section of the apparatus detached from the loom.
To the slay are attached the triangles A, A, to which are secured the cords
B, B, which support a stock C, in which the needles D are set. A perpendicular

page_text: motion is communicated to the stock or needle frame C by the triangles A, A.
E is the reed through which the warp is passed. F is a series of pins which
guide the shuttle in its passage through the race; these have a perpendicular
motion given to them. G is the upper part of the frame, which carries the
stock C, and on which the weaver's hand rests to move the frame to and fro.
In Fig. 2, G is the horizontal sliding frame moving in the case or frame H, on
which are placed the stops I, I; these are moveable pieces of wood, and the
space between the frame G and the stops I regulates the breadth of the plait
or fold. K, K, are wires or pins, upon which the needle stock C moves up
and down. The needles D are supplied with thread from a series of bobbins
arranged at the back of the loom or in any convenient position. These threads
pass under the reed and through the needles. When the slay is put back, in
order to allow the shuttle to pass through the yarns, the needles are raised level
with the yarns under which the shuttle passes; the weft yarn in the shuttle is
therefore passed under the needle threads. When the slay is brought forward
the needles descend; and do not interfere with the reed driving up the weft.
A sufficient number of shots of weft, say three or four, having been passed
under the threads in the needles, the slay is brought forward, so that the needles
are under the yarns, and the frame G is shifted from right to left, or vice versa,
the breadth of a plait, and the same operations are gone through to fasten the
thread on the other side. The thread from each needle is. thus fastened to the
fabric by the weft yarn, and when the needle stock is moved, say a quarter of an
inch, to the right, the thread is there secured in a similar manner, and again,
when shifted to the left, the thread thus forms a zig-zag line at the back of the
fabric. Upon drawing each end of one of these threads out of the fabric, the
space between the fastenings will be drawn together, and the surplus material
will form a plait, having an appearance similar to one formed and stitched
by hand. As the traverse of the frame H, or the distance between it and
the stops I, I, regulates the breadth of the plaits, it follows that plaits of
any required breadth may be woven in the fabric. In the foregoing I have
described one stock and one set of needles, but two or three may be used, if
required, forming two or three series of plaits; modifications may also be made
in other parts of the machinery, and I reserve à right to make them or to
vary the details of the arrangement. My Invention is, however, described
substantially by the foregoing.
.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas Fawcett in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 17th
August 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
FAWCETT the younger, of Lisburn, in the County of Antrim, Ireland, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventeenth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Thomas Fawcett the younger, Her special licence that I, the said Thomas
Fawcett the younger, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said Thomas Fawcett the younger, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at
all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING LINEN OR OTHER FABRICS TO PRODUCE PLAITS OF FOLDS
THEREIN," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Thomas Fawcett
the younger, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas Fawcett the younger, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
The object of these improvements in weaving is to produce plaits or folds in
linen or other textile fabrics by a thread running through each plait or fold, so
as to resemble and supply the place of fabrics folded and stitched by hand.
Shirt fronts, for example, are made by folding a piece of linen or other fabrics
into plaits of the required width, and then stitching the edge of each plait or
fold. By my improvements fabrics may be woven so as to form plaits or folds
of any required width, which, when finished, present an appearance closely
resembling hand work, and equal to it, if not superior, in point of strength. This
is effected by weaving a thread in the fabric in such manner as to form a zig-
zag or waved line at the back of the fabric. A series of these threads are woven

page_text: in the fabric corresponding to the number of plaits or folds required in its
width. When a sufficient length of fabric has been woven, it is taken out o
the loom, and the ends of each of the waved threads drawn out of the fabric
so as to cause the curved line of each thread to form a right line parallel with
the selvages of the fabric, the result of which is that the portion of fabric
between the waved threads is. folded or doubled into a plait, and the waved
thread (now brought to a straight line) as it passes over and under the, weft
gives to the plait the appearance of being stitched in the ordinary manner.
The waved threads here spoken of, and which may for distinction be termed the
'plait threads," are woven into the fabric by the following means:-A number
of threads corresponding to the number of plaits to be made in the fabric are
wound upon a beam or roller similar to a yarn beam, and fitted in brackets at
the back of the loom; from the beam the threads are carried beneath the warp
through a slot or opening made in the back of the slay, thence under the reed,
and through a series of needles fitted in a frame, which is placed immediately
behind the shuttle race. The needle frame is supported by cords attached to
a pair of triangles, which are pivotted to the slay beam; another cord is attached
to each triangle, and secured to a cross rail on the upper part of the loom
framing. The needle frame has also a lateral motion given to it by the weaver's
hand, and the extent of this motion regulates the width of the curved line
formed by the plait thread, as will be hereafter explained, and consequently
the width of the plait. The object of securing the needle frame to the triangles
before mentioned is to give it a reciprocating motion every time the slay is
moved to and fro in beating up the weft; thus, when the slay is moved back,
and in a position to allow the shuttle to pass through the "shed," the eyes of
the needles are on a level with the upper part of the shed of the warp yarns,
and the shuttle in its passage as it puts in the weft also weaves the plait threads
in with the warp; but when the slay is brought forward to drive or beat up the
weft the triangles are depressed, and the needle frame descends below the warp
so as not to interfere with the motion of the slay. The needle frame is moved
by the weaver's hand either to the right or left, or vice versa, the distance being
regulated by stops adjusted to produce plaits of the required width. This is
done when the slay has driven up the weft, and prior to passing the shuttle
through the shed. If, for example, the needle frame be to the left of the
weaver, and from one to four shots of weft be passed through the shed, the
"plait threads" will be woven or interlaced with the fabric at that point. If
now the needle frame carrying with it the "plait threads" be moved to the
right a distance of one inch, and from one to four shots of weft put in, the
plait threads will now be woven or fastened in the fabric at a point one inch

page_text: to the right of the first fastening. If the operations just described he repeated,
the "plait threads" will be fastened in the fabric alternately to the right and
left, forming the waved or curved line upon one side of the fabric, as before
referred to, the breadth of the turn or curve at each side depending upon the
number of shots of weft made before shifting the needle frame. The interlacing
of the "plait thread" with the weft does not prevent its being drawn into a
straight line when it is desired to form the plaits or folds in the fabric, and
being woven in by every shott of the shuttle the thread is not loosened or set
free when the fabric is cut. The Drawings accompanying this Specification
represent the Invention in detail, and its application to a hand loom.
Fig. 1 represents the front elevation of a portion of a loom sufficient to shew
the application of the improvements; Fig. 2 represents the needle frame
detached from the loom; Fig. 3 is a side view of part of a loom to shew the
arrangement for supplying the plait needles with thread; and Fig. 4 is a plan
of a portion of the fabric to show the manner in which the plait threads are
woven or interlaced with the warp and weft of the fabric. A is the upper
beam or "rocking tree" of the "slay" or "slaize." B, B, are the slay swords.
C, the "sole" or under shell; and D, the "upper shell" of the slay. E, E,
are the boxes for receiving the shuttle. F, F, the drivers, which slide on
the spindles G. H is the reed. I is a frame placed immediately in front of
the reed. In this frame are set a number of pieces of wire terminating at the
upper part in a curve or in an eye, as shewn by Figures 1, 2. K is a series
of pins which guide the shuttle in its passage through the shed. L, L, are
a pair of triangles pivotted to the upper part of the slay swords, which are pro-
longed above the rocking tree for that purpose. M, M, are cords attached to
the upper ends of the triangles, and secured to a rail placed across the framing
of the loom: N, N, are cords attached to the lower ends of the triangles; the
other ends are secured to the needle frame I, and a frame or "stock" carrying
the pins K...The needle frame or stock, and parts attached thereto, are shewn
separately by Fig. 2. O is a horizontal sliding frame fitted to the case or
frame P, in which it slides to and fro. Q is a "stock" or frame, in which the
needles R arc-set. S, S, are wires fixed to the frame O, and upon which the
needle stock Q. moves in a perpendicular direction. T, T, are stops affixed to
the frame P; these stops are moveable, and the distance which they are placed
from the sliding frame 0 regulates its traverse, and the width of the plait to
be made in the fabric: U is the place for the weaver's hand, when the needle
frame O is 'moved from side to side. The needles R, which serve as guides to
the plait threads, are pieces of wire curved into a loop, or having an eye bored
at the upper part, and fixed in.a "stock". or horizontal lath of wood. In Fig. 3

page_text: is shewn the arrangement of the different parts represented in side view. The
plait threads W, to the number of plaits required in the width of the fabric,
are wound upon a beam or roller V, which is fitted in brackets or bearings at
the back of the loom and below the warp or yarn beam, and from thence are
carried through a slot cut in the "sole " of the "slay" or "slaize," passing
through the eyes of the plait needles; the ends may hang loose or be secured to
the cloth beam. A spring is fitted to the framing of the loom a short distance
in front of the plait thread beam for the purpose of taking up the slack when
the needle frame is depressed. The loom and other parts being arranged in
the foregoing manner, the plait threads will be woven in with the fabric by
every shot of the shuttle, as follows:-When the slay or slaize is pushed back,
in order to allow the shuttle to pass through the "shed," it elevates the front
or lower ends of the triangles L, L, which raises the needle frame I through
the cords N, N, bringing the loops or eyes of the needles R on a level with the
yarns, so that when the shuttle is thrown through the yarns the plait threads
are woven or interlaced with the warp by the weft yarn. When from one to four
shots have been made the slay is brought forward to beat up the weft, and this
motion depresses the front ends of the triangles, because the upper part is held
stationary by the cords attached to the rail on the loom framing. This depres-
sion of the triangles causes the needle frame I, and the stock, with the guide
pins K, to descend beneath the yarns out of the way of the reed, and so as not
to interfere with the beating up of the weft. When the slay is put back, the
weaver shifts the frame to the right or left, according to its former position.
This movement of the frame brings the needles to the right or left of their
former position, and here the threads are fastened by a continuation of the
weaving, as before described. On beating up the weft the needle frame is
again shifted in the opposite direction, and these operations are repeated
throughout the length of the web. The plait threads are thus fastened to the
fabric alternately to the right and left; the width of these fastenings, or their
distance apart, being regulated by the adjustment of the stops T, T, the distance
which the frame O traverses forming the width of the plait. If, for example, a
distance of one inch is allowed between the needle frame and the stops, the
plait threads will be fastened to the fabric at points one inch apart, forming a
curved or zig-zag line, as shewn by Fig. 4, one inch wide, and when the threads
are drawn out the fabric will be folded into plaits half an inch wide, the
thread running down one side of the plait as in the ordinary stitched plaits.
The position and width between the plaits is regulated by the needles R; the
distance these are placed asunder in the stock regulates the number of plaits to
be made in the width of the fabric. In the foregoing these improvements

page_text: have been described as applied, to hand looms, but the same may, with trifling
modifications, be applied to power looms.
Having described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of carrying
the same into practical effect, I wish it to be understood that I do not confine
myself to the precise arrangement of the details of my Invention, as herein-
before described and shewn, as the same may be varied without departing from
the peculiar features of the same; but what I claim and desire to secure by
the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
The improvements in weaving fabrics, so that plaits or folds are formed
therein in the manner herein-before described and shewn, and the machinery
or apparatus for effecting the same, substantially as herein described, and any
mere modification thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Fawcett the younger, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Sixteenth day of August, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
THOMAS FAWCETT, JUNIOR.
(L.S.)