IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND EMBROIDERING MACHINES
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Leonard Lindley, and Frederick Taylor, Sewing
Machine Manufacturers, of Melbourne Street, Mansfield Road, and
Comyn Street, Nottingham, in the County of the Town of Nottingham,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND EMBROIDERING
MACHINES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Leonard Lindley and
Frederick Taylor at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
"their Petition, on the 4th April 1862.
We, LEONARD LINDLEY, and FREDERICK TAYLOR, Sewing Machine Manu-
facturers, of Melbourne Street, Mansfield Road, and Comyn Street, Notting-
ham, in the County of the Town of Nottingham, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND EMBROIDERING
MACHINES," to be as follows:-
The improvements relate to machines using one, two, or more threads, for
uniting fabrics, or for embroidering or for sewing over the edges of fabrics.
The improvements consist in combiningtwo parallel revolvingshafts, connected
by cog wheels or other suitable machinery with a bobbin and hook working
upon two centres to produce the lock stitch. Also in combining with the
previously described improvements one or more guide bars for traversing one
or more threads or their equivalents ou the upper side of the fabric in front of
Paine 837

page_text: the needle, so that the needle steps over the thread or cord and a plait or
embroidering stitch is produced on the upper side of the fabric.
Also, in combining with the two revolving shafts, first described, two needles
on one side of the fabric, one the ordinary eye pointed needle and the other
the ordinary loop or crochet needle, (the distance between said needles being
adjustable according to the width of stitch or edging required) with a hook on
the other side of the fabric, said hook being moved from the second revolving
shaft, and taking the loop formed on the side of the eye-pointed needle, and
carrying said loop to and placing it over the beard or hook of the crochet
needle, by which, as the needle ascends, it is drawn up to the fabric. A presser
acting upon the loop needle (at the proper time) causes the loop to pass over
the beard, and a guide bar attached to one of the main shafts traverses a
separate thread or the thread from the needle in front of the two needles, which
step over this traversing thread at each stitch, thus forming an edging or
over stitch suitable for edging.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Leonard Lindley and Frederick Taylor in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 2nd September 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, LEONARD
LINDLEY, and FREDERICK TAYLOR, Sewing Machine Manufacturers, of
Melbourne Street, Mansfield Road, and Comyn Street, Nottingham, in the
County of the Town of Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the
year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
Leonard Lindley and Frederick Taylor, Her special license that we, the said
Leonard Lindley and Frederick Taylor, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as we, the said Leonard Lindley and Frederick Taylor,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND EMBROIDERING
MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Leonard
Lindley and Frederick Taylor, our executors or administrators, by an instru-

page_text: ment in writing under our, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Leonard Lindley and Frederick
Taylor, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the several Drawings
hereunto annexed, and in which said Drawings similar parts are marked and
referred to by similar letters or figures:—
Fig. 1 is a side view of a machine containing our improvements in sewing
and embroidering machines; Fig. 2 is an end view; Fig. 3 is a top view of
the thread guide; Fig. 4 is a top view with plate m removed; Fig 5 is a
side view of hook; Fig. 6 is a side view of upper hook; Fig. 7 is a view of
the upper side of the edging with two threads. A, A, denotes the frame of the
machine; B, B, two revolving shafts. Upon the lower shaft is the cam w, iu
which works the pin x attached to and giving a reciprocating motion to the
sliding piece t. The slide t moves freely between the stationary guides w, v.
To this slide t is attached by the pin or screw p, the thread guide n. The
guide o has a compound motion, that is, a revolving or vibrating movement
round the axis p, and a reciprocating motion received from the sliding bar t.
This curved motion may be obtained in various ways. Also the curve
described by the point o or o² (Fig. 6), and the distance it travels may be
varied to any extent required. We have tried a cam with a pin attached to
the end of the lever or guide n, but we prefer the arrangement shown in the
Drawings; 5, 7, is a connecting link, which works on the two centres s and 7.
The centre s is stationary so that while the bar n is moved backwards and
forwards by the slide t, and turns round the point p more or less as required,
the guide o carries the top or other thread round the second thread which
passes through the eye-pointed needle N. On the shaft B is the eccentric K,
which is adjusted to strike against the bar d (Fig. 1) at the proper time so
as to cause the hook a (Figs. 1, 2,) to move forward and take the loop from
the side of the eye-pointed needle N, and pass it over or in the way of the
point of the crochet needle M. The hook a is made fast to the bar which
turns on supporting centre screws c, c, (Figs. 1, 2.) The hook a is withdrawn
from the needles by the spring e (Fig. 1). It is made so broad at the back
and with a projection (Fig. 5) that it holds the loop of the needle N open
and allows the crochet needle M to pass through said loop without danger of

page_text: missing. (Figs. 2, 4,) is a curved bar which slides freely in slots in the
framing A, A. It is moved by an eccentric or projecting piece h (Fig. 2)
on the main shaft B, which projection h strikes against the projection g(Fig. 2.)
The spring (Fig. 2) keeps the bar g up towards the main shaft e (Figs. 3, 4,)
is attached to the sliding piece g by a screw (Fig. 4) or other suitable con-
trivance, and is made adjustable (as by screw Z, Figs. 2, 4,) so that it may
be placed at the proper distance from the crochet M, for closing the crochet
or eye without bending or breaking the needle. The eye-pointed needle N,
and the crochet needle M with its point turned up, are attached to one sliding
bar, but the point of N is at a greater distance from the work table m than
the point of M, to allow time for the action of the hook a, and the guide n, o.
The work is propelled by means of the holder or presser foot, which receives
its motion from the revolving shaft B, (Figs. 1, 2,) and any a rangement of
top feed may be used. But the feeding and presser foot extends only a short
distance beyond or in front of the needles N, M, so that the foot steps on and
holds the thread or threads from e, during the tightening of the stitchy, y;
(Figs. 1,2,) are any suitable apparatus for producing tension upon the threads.
The thread which passes through the eye pointed needle is carried by guides
similar to those common in shuttle machines, as shewn in Fig. 2.
The operation of the above described machine is as follows:-Motion
being given to the two shafts B, B, by any suitable machinery, the two needles
M, N, descend; M passes close by the edge of the fabric, and N passes
through the fabric. (The breadth of the edging depends upon the distance
between the two needles M, N, and this distance may be varied by changing
the plate m, the presser foot, and the distance between the needles.) When
the needle N is near the bottom of its siroke the hook a takes the loop from
its side, spreads this loop, and carries it forward, so that it is caught by the
crochet M, which draws it up. M is closed while ascending by coming in
contact with the moveable projecting edge of the piece e (Figs. 4, 5,) allowing
the previous loop to pass over the point of the crocket needle, and preventing
the crotchet from eatching the thread from o. Suppose the needles and guide
to be in the position shown in Fig. 1, the fabric is being moved, the needles
are at the top of their stroke, the guide bar is to the right of the needles, its
point is beyond M, and its thread o is under the foot, and beyond M from the
operator; the guide n rests or remains as shown in Fig. 1 until after M has
passed down into or past the edge of the fabric; it then moves rapidly around
in front of M and beyond N, carrying the thread from o around M and under
the point of N; when N has entered the fabric, the guide N with its thread
returns to its position, as shown in Fig. 1, and remains at rest until after the

page_text: needles have risen and the fabric has been moved by the presser foot to make
another stitch; then the needle N descends again, and the gude n repeats its
forward movement, as described. (If the needle M were placed where N is,
as shewn, Fig. 1, the guide n would rest longest to the left of the needles, and.
the nook a would have its point directed outwards, or in the opposite direction
to that shown in Fig. 1. The crochet needle N may be made with a point for
passing through the fabric.) The upper thread follows the zig-zag line shown
in Fig. 7, and is wholly on the top of the fabric. The second or lower thread
forms the common chain or tambour stitch, N, N, being the line of stitches,.
and the loops instead of being drawn up underneath N, N, meet at M, M, on
the edge of the fabric and hold the thread from o. The projecting nozzle o
(Fig. 3) allows room for the vibrating movement of the guide n, without its
coming in contact with the needles.
To make the edging with one thread, the bar and hook shown in Fig. 6 are,
used, instead of the-guide bar o, n, Fig. 3. When the eye-pointed needle N.
is up, and while the lower portion of its thread is held by the crotchet M, the
hook o takes the upper portion of the thread which is between the needle N
and the fabric, and draws it to the right, and at the same time spreads the.
loop, so that the crochet needle in descending passes through this loop on the
hook of, and holds it out across the fabric. The hook o³ then moves forward
or towards the needle N, aud disengages itself from the loop. The drawing
up of the under thread secures or tightens the stitch; both sides of the edging
are nearly alike.
Tomake the lock stitch with this machine the crochet needle M is removed,,
also the hook a, and the apparatus for moving it, and the sliding piece g and
guide n may also be taken away. To the end of the shaft B is attached an
eccentric or crank, carrying up and down a sliding piece (Fig. 3), which
moves in guides in the two sides of the frame A, A, (Fig. ). To this sliding
piece is attached a lever bar and connecting link (n, p, r, s, Fig. 3), and a
hook 2 (Fig. 6), or a hook like those in common use on other sewing
machines. This hook carries the upper thread down and round a stationary
bobbin, supported loosely in a holder. The construction and arrangement of
such holder, bobbin, and hook are well known,and do not require description.
By using the combination shown in Figs. 3, 6, for passing the needle thread
around a bobbin or shuttle below the fabric, the upper thread is drawn straight
or nearly straight down from the needle, instead of sideways and downwards
as in the machines in common use, in which the hook or its carriage has a
rotary motion.
The apparatus shown in Fig. 3 may be used in combination with any appa-

page_text: ratus for sewing to produce embroidering; one or more threads may be used.
Also, by altering the timing of the machinery, that is, the proportion of the
movements of the vibratory bar to the movements of the needle, the embroidery
thread or threads may be thrown in at every second, third, fourth, or other
stitch...
Having thus described the nature of our said improvements in sewing and
embroidering machines, and the manner in which they are to be performed,
we declare that we claim as of our Invention the combination and arrangement
of machinery shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, for producing edging by means of
two threads interlaced, as shown in Fig. 7, said combination consisting of
a crochet and eye-pointed needle, placed at unequal distances from the fabric;
a thread guide on one side of the fabric having a reciprocating and vibrating
motion, a hook on the other side of the fabric for carrying the thread from the
eye-pointed needle into a position where it is seized by the crochet needle, an
apparatus for closing the eye of the crochet, and an apparatus for holding and
moving the fabric.
We claim the combination of machinery shown in Figs. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, for
producing edging with one thread, said combination being the same as that
for producing edging with two threads, with the exception of the thread guide,
instead of which we use the hook, Fig. 6.
We claim the combination of the thread guide apparatus shown in
Figs. 1, 3, actuated by a suitable cam or its equivalent upon the lower shaft B,
with an apparatus for sewing or embroidering, to throw in one or more
embroidering or ornamental threads.
. We claim also the combination of machinery shown in Figs. 1, 3, 6, for
throwing or carrying an upper or needle thread around a bobbin or shuttle
containing a second thread to produce a lock stitch, as described.
In witness whereof, we, the said Leonard Lindley and Frederick Taylor,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this First day of August, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
FREDERICK TAYLOR. (L.S.)