Abstract:
A method of producing a jewelry item. The method comprises producing an annular or partially annular substrate formed with a plurality of slots extending from its inner periphery towards its outer periphery. A plurality of insert members are produced each formed with a slot and at least two bordered openings one to each side of the slot. The insert members are located in turn into the slots of the annular or partially annular substrate with the slots of the substrate and the insert members inter-engaging whereby each insert member is positioned generally normal to the annular or partially annular substrate. Gemstones are then located between each pair of neighboring insert members above with edges of each gem stone or the like located in the openings formed in the insert members.

Description:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION 
       [0001]    This invention relates to a method of producing jewellery items from a selection of jewellery pieces such as gemstone. The invention also relates to jewellery items produced by this method. 
         [0002]    The term “jewellery pieces” as used herein is intended to include, but is not limited to, gem stones. 
         [0003]    The term “jewellery items” includes, but is not limited to, rings, earrings, bracelets and pendants. 
       BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION 
       [0004]    Many known methods of producing rings and other items of jewellery are time consuming and rely on relatively large quantities of cast metal to retain gem stones and other jewellery pieces in place during and after the manufacturing process. 
         [0005]    The present invent sets out to provide an alternative manufacturing process which does not suffer from this and other disadvantages of known processes. 
       SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
       [0006]    In one aspect the invention provides a method of producing a jewellery item which comprises taking an annular or partially annular substrate formed with a plurality of slots extending from its inner periphery towards its outer periphery, taking a plurality of insert members each formed with at least one slot and at least one bordered or partially bordered opening alongside one or each slot, locating the insert members in turn into slots of the annular substrate with the slots of the substrate and the insert members inter-engaging whereby each insert member is positioned generally normal to the annular substrate, and locating one or more jewellery pieces in turn between each pair of neighbouring insert members with edge surfaces of each jewellery piece located in the openings formed in neighbouring insert members. 
         [0007]    Two such annular or partially annular substrates may be employed, one positioned above the other with slots of the insert members inter-engaging with slots of the insert members. 
         [0008]    The outer edge of each substrate may be plain or may include a series of indents for receiving surfaces of jewellery pieces. 
         [0009]    Preferably, each slot of each the substrate extends to a position which equates to approximately one half of the width of the substrate. 
         [0010]    In a preferred embodiment, one side edge of each slot of the or each substrate lies along a radius of the substrate with the opposed side edge of each slot including an initial length which is inclined away from the said one side edge and a second length which projects to the end face of the slot and is inclined towards the said one side edge. 
         [0011]    The slots of the/or each substrate are preferably generally radially aligned. 
         [0012]    When engaged, the insert members are preferably positioned normal to the/or each substrate. 
         [0013]    In one arrangement, each insert member comprises a single slot positioned between two bordered openings. 
         [0014]    In another embodiment, each insert member comprises a single bordered opening positioned between two slots. 
         [0015]    The slots of the/or each substrate may be evenly spaced about the internal periphery of the substrate. 
         [0016]    In a further arrangement, each insert member comprises two slots positioned between two end pieces and a centre piece, each end piece including a bordered opening and the centre piece including one or more bordered openings. 
         [0017]    The jewellery pieces may subsequently be secured in place. 
         [0018]    In one arrangement the jewellery pieces are secured in place by tack welding the insert members to the/or each annular substrate. Preferably the welding is effected by a laser welding technique. Other tack welding techniques could, however, be employed. 
         [0019]    The/or each annular substrate and/or the insert members may be precision cut from a sheet of a suitable material. Typically, this material comprises a hard metal such as platinum or a metal in its hardened state. Alternatively, the substrate and/or the insert members may be produced from a suitable synthetic ceramic material. Other materials having the appropriate properties could also be employed. 
         [0020]    The width of each slot formed in the annular substrate is preferably equal to (or substantially equal to) the thickness of the insert members. Similarly, the width of the slots formed in each insert member is preferably equal to (or substantially equal to) the thickness of the substrate. 
         [0021]    In another aspect the invention provides a method of producing a jewellery item from one or more annular or partially annular substrates, a plurality of insert members and a plurality of jewellery pieces, the or each substrate including a plurality of generally radial slots which extend from its inner periphery towards its outer periphery, and each insert member including at least one slot and at least one bordered or partially bordered opening alongside the or at least one slot, the method comprising the steps of engaging in turn the or one slot of each insert member within a slot of the or each substrate, locating between the bordered or partially bordered openings of neighbouring insert members a jewellery piece with opposed side edges of the jewellery piece located within the bordered or partially bordered openings of the neighbouring inserts, and repeating these steps until jewellery pieces are located between each neighbouring pair of inserts. 
         [0022]    In a further aspect, the invention provides an item of jewellery produced by the method set out in the previous sixteen paragraphs. 
     
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
         [0023]    The invention will now be described by way of example only with reference to the accompanying diagrammatic drawings, in which: 
           [0024]      FIG. 1  shows in plan view a first ring-shaped substrate used in the exemplified method of this invention and which forms part of an item of jewellery manufactured in accordance with the invention; 
           [0025]      FIG. 2  is a plan view showing a plurality of insert members which co-operate with the ring-shaped substrate illustrated in  FIG. 1  in the exemplified method of this invention and which also forms part of a jewellery item manufactured in accordance with the invention; 
           [0026]      FIG. 3  illustrates an item of jewellery manufactured in accordance with the exemplified method of the invention; 
           [0027]      FIGS. 4 to 6  illustrate sequential steps taken to produce the jewellery item illustrated in  FIG. 3 ; 
           [0028]      FIGS. 7A to 7C  illustrate alternative substrates and insert members in accordance with this invention; 
           [0029]      FIG. 8  illustrates an alternative substrate in accordance with the invention; and 
           [0030]      FIGS. 9 to 11  illustrate jewellery items produced in accordance with the invention. 
       
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION 
       [0031]    The method described below is for producing a ring inset with gem-stones. Such a ring is illustrated in  FIG. 3  of the drawings. It is to be understood however, that the method has application to the manufacture of a wide range of jewellery items of which a ring is just one example. It is also to be understood that a gem-stone is only one of several jewellery pieces which can be used in the production of jewellery items by the method to be described below. 
         [0032]      FIG. 1  illustrates a ring-shaped substrate  2  which acts as a pattern during the manufacture of the ring. The ring-shaped substrate is precision cut from a sheet of a metal or other material. Typically the metal is a hard metal such as platinum or a metal in its hardened state. Other materials including synthetic ceramic materials could however be employed. The thickness of the sheet is typically between 0.5 mm and 2 mm. The circumference of the substrate  2  is shown in the drawings as being plain. This may not always be the case. The circumference could, for example, be patterned. 
         [0033]    As will be seen from  FIG. 1 , a plurality of discrete generally radial slots  4  are precision cut into the internal periphery of the substrate  2 , each slot  4  extending to a position which approximates to one half of the width of the substrate. One side edge  6  of each slot  4  lies along a radius of the substrate  2  whereas the other side edge of each slot is shaped to include an initial length  8  which is inclined away from the side edge  6  and a second length  10  which projects to the end face  11  of the respective slot  4  and which is typically inclined towards the side edge  6 . 
         [0034]    As shown, the slots  4  are evenly spaced about the internal periphery of the ring-shaped substrate  2 . This need not be the case. Thus, the spacing between each neighbouring pair of slots may be selected to produce a jewellery item in which some gem stones are of different size to other gem stones. 
         [0035]    The ring-shaped substrate  2  is preferably produced by a laser cutting technique. 
         [0036]    Insert members  12  are illustrated in  FIG. 2 . Each insert member has a curvilinear edge  14  which includes a parallel sided slot  16  of width equal to (or marginally greater than) the thickness of the ring-shaped substrate  2 . The length of each slot  16  is equal to the distance between the slots  4  and the outer periphery of the ring-shaped substrate  2 . The side edge  18  of each insert member remote from the edge  14  is generally flat with the edges of the member ends  20  smoothly merging between the edges  14  and  18 . Each insert member  12  is formed with two shaped holes  22  formed one to each side of the slot  16 , the purpose of which will be described below. 
         [0037]    One insert member  12 A differs from the other members in that it includes two cuts  23  which extend from the insert periphery to the boundaries of the holes  22 . As will be explained below, the cuts  23  are provided to assist fitting of the final stones of the jewellery item. 
         [0038]    The insert members also act as patterns during the manufacture of the jewellery item and are also precision cut from a sheet of metal or other material having the same or similar properties as those of substrate  2 . Typically, the substrate and the insert members are precision cut from the same sheet. They may, however, be cut from another material sheet depending on the design and visual effect to be produced. 
         [0039]    Thus, the substrate could be produced from a ceramic material and the inserts from a metallic material. In this case, the width of each slot  4  is the same or substantially the same as the sheet thickness. Typically the slots  4  are around 0.01 mm wider than the thickness of the sheet. 
         [0040]    The number of insert members  12  is the same as the number of radial slots  4 . 
         [0041]    The exposed edges of the substrate  2  and the insert members  12  in the finished ring will be seen in  FIG. 3 . 
         [0042]    As will be explained below, jewellery pieces such as gem stones  24  are positioned in turn between neighbouring insert members above and below the ring-shaped substrate with opposite side edges of each stone positioned firmly within the openings  22  of the neighbouring pair of insert members. The gem stones are typically brilliant or oval cut to define side edges capable of locating firmly within the holes  22 . Any conventional jewellery gem stone can be used, these including diamonds, sapphires and rubies. 
         [0043]    Turning now to  FIG. 4  of the drawings, the first step in the manufacturing process is to position one insert pattern  12  so that its slot  16  extends into one of the radial slots  4  of the ring-shaped substrate  2 , and then to move the insert member through the slot until its edge  14  is aligned with the outer periphery of the substrate  2 . 
         [0044]    As will be seen from  FIG. 5 , a second insert member  12  is then similarly positioned in an adjoining slot  4  of the substrate  2 . Gem stones  24  are then positioned using tweezers or the like between the opposed side surfaces of the neighbouring insert members  12  with their precisely shaped edges located within the holes  22  of the two insert members  12  above and below the ring-shaped substrate  2 . Each freshly introduced module of inserts and gem stones secures the adjoining such module firmly in place. 
         [0045]    The shaping of the sides  8  of the slots  4  enable the insert members  12  to move to a limited extent within the slots to facilitate correct positioning of the gem stones between neighbouring insert members  12 . 
         [0046]    This process continues until the position shown in  FIG. 6  where only two final gem stone receiving spaces remain. These spaces are defined on one side by an insert member  12  and on their other side by insert member  12 A. Because the space available for movement of the final gem stones between the adjacent insert members is either very limited or non-existent, the part of member  12 A above the cut  23  is lifted relative to that part below the cut to enable a stone or stones to be slid into place. The parts of member  12 A above and below the cut  23  are then pressed together so that they adopt their original positions and the cut is closed by laser welding to secure the stone or stones securely in place. 
         [0047]    Each insert member is then laser tacked onto the ring shaped member before final polishing of the jewellery item. 
         [0048]    The number of slots formed in the/or each substrate can, of course, vary depending on the design of the jewellery item to be produced. Thus, the spacing between the slots  4  of the/or each substrate may differ to accommodate differently sized jewellery pieces. Furthermore, the annular or partially annular shaping of the/or each substrate may vary depending upon the jewellery item to be produced. For example, an earring, broach or pendant could readily be produced using an oval or similarly shaped substrate. 
         [0049]    Three different insert members in accordance with the invention are illustrated in  FIGS. 7A, 7B and 7C . Each of the insert members illustrated in  FIG. 7A  has only one bordered opening  22  positioned between two slots  16 . A jewellery item produced from a series of such insert members and a pair of substrates  2  is illustrated in  FIG. 11 . As will be seen, the produced item comprises a single array of gem stones or other jewellery pieces. 
         [0050]    Each insert member illustrated in  FIG. 7B  comprises two slots  16  positioned between three bordered openings  22 . These insert members would be used in combination with two substrates for the production of jewellery items which comprise three arrays of jewellery pieces. 
         [0051]    The inserts illustrated in  FIG. 7C  each comprise a pair of slots  16  bordered on one side by one opening  22  located in each end section of the insert, three openings  22  being positioned in the central section of the insert. These inserts will be employed for the production of jewellery items having five arrays of jewellery pieces. 
         [0052]    The substrate  2  illustrated in  FIG. 8  differs from that of  FIG. 1  in that it&#39;s outer circumference is formed with a series of generally semi-circular indents  23 . 
         [0053]    Additional examples of jewellery items to be produced in accordance with this invention are illustrated in  FIGS. 9 and 10 .  FIG. 9  illustrates an earring produced from a partially annular substrate and insert members as illustrate in  FIG. 2 , and  FIG. 10  illustrates a jewellery item in which elongate jewellery pieces  24  are used in combination with gem stones. 
         [0054]    It will be appreciated that the foregoing is merely exemplary of a method of manufacturing jewellery items and jewellery items produced by that method, and that modifications can readily be made thereto without departing from the true scope of the invention as set out in the appended claims.