Abstract:
The present invention is a system allowing an individual to order a customized pattern of a garment at an affordable cost. The system comprises a central computer system located at a vendor site communicatively linked to at least one local customer computer station. The system further comprises an apparel design selecting and pattern drafting software program, which is specially created to control the sequential operation of the pattern ordering and drafting processes, operating within the central computer station. A customer who wishes to order a customized pattern can simply access the central computer system from a local station, and will then be guided by the software program via a menu dialogue to select a garment design and input the necessary and desired information to enable the program to adjust size and design features to the customer&#39;s specifications. The customer has complete freedom of specifying a set of body measurements and garment features upon which a pattern will be drafted. The software program then executes the appropriate pattern drafting commands to create a pattern customized to the requests of the customer.

Description:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION 
     This invention relates generally to a system for creating and ordering patterns of selected apparel designs, in particular, for creating patterns that are customized to body measurements specified by the customer. 
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     Patterns for apparel available from commercial vendors are generally limited to specific sizes or size classes (e.g., small, medium, large). These sizes or size classes are usually based on the average body dimensions of a target population for whom the apparel is designed. However, many individuals within this target population find that their body shapes or sizes do not match the standard body dimensions in all aspects. When selecting a paper pattern for apparel, these individuals usually have to settle for a size or size class that fits in an overall manner, but is not optimized for their particular body dimensions. Consumers who desire a better fit will have to make alterations or adjustments to these purchased patterns. Most paper patterns incorporate instructions or guides to make some simple adjustments for major body measurements, such as varying the length of the finished garment or the length of the sleeves. Any alterations outside these simple adjustments must be made solely by the knowledge and the skill of the consumer. Many consumers may not possess the skills necessary to make such alterations, or the alterations can be difficult and time consuming, which defeats the general purpose of using a purchased pattern as a template for making a garment. Therefore, it would be desirable for consumers to be able to purchase patterns that are custom-tailored to their individual body dimensions, that incorporate specific fashion attributes of a consumer, and that is available at a reasonable cost. The present invention, directed to the creation of custom-drafted patterns for garments, satisfies this need. 
     SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
     The customized apparel pattern creation system of the present invention comprises a pattern selecting and drafting software program which controls the sequential operation of the pattern ordering and creation procedure. The pattern selecting and drafting software program is adapted to execute within a central processor of a computer assembly. The computer assembly may be a stand-alone system or a central computer communicatively linked to multiple local workstations. A customer at a retail store that has a local computer workstation can access the central computer. A design database containing a multiplicity of garment design profiles is accessible to the central processor of a computer system of the present invention. Each of the design profiles includes a design of a garment and a set of commands to construct a pattern for that garment. The customer may, through a series of menu steps, choose an apparel design, input the specific body measurements of a target individual (the individual for whom the garment is to be made), and order a paper pattern of that apparel. Upon receipt of the order, the computer assembly would draft a pattern which would be custom-tailored to the specified body dimensions of the target individual for delivery to the customer. 
     An object of the present invention is to enable individual consumers to order patterns specifically customized to the particular body measurements provided by the consumers, and do so at a reasonable cost. 
     Another object of the present invention is to enable customers to select apparel designs from a design database, or combine style features of different designs to create a personalized design and have a clothing pattern drafted for the selected design. 
     A further object of the present invention is reducing inventory and stocking cost for the apparel pattern vendors. 
     Still other objects and advantages of the present invention will become readily apparent to those skilled in this art from the following detailed description, wherein only the preferred embodiment of the invention is shown and described, simply by way of illustration of the best mode contemplated of carrying out the invention. As will be realized, the invention is capable of modifications in various obvious respects, all without departing from the invention. Consequently, the drawing and description are to be regarded as illustrative in nature, and not as restrictive. 
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING 
     FIG. 1 is a block diagram illustrating the apparel design selecting and pattern drafting system in accordance with the present invention comprising a central computer in the vendor site, communicatively linked to a local computer system. 
     FIG. 2 is a block diagram demonstrating the organization of information composing fthe design database. 
     FIGS. 3 a  and  3   b  shows a typical dialogue sequence of apparel design selecting and pattern drafting process. 
     FIGS. 4 a ,  4   b , and  4   c  is a flow diagram of the decision making process of the central computer. 
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT 
     For the purposes of promoting an understanding of the principles of the invention, reference will now be made to the embodiment illustrated in the drawings and specific language will be used to describe the same. It will nevertheless be understood that no limitation of the scope of the invention is thereby intended, such as alterations and further modifications in the illustrated device, and such further applications of the principles of the invention as illustrated therein being contemplated as would normally occur to one skilled in the art to which the invention relates are also included in the present invention. 
     The present invention takes advantage of advances in computer and telecommunication technology which allows the storage of large databases in a central location and the retrieval of the stored information at high speed by a consumer at a remote location. These features enable a customer located anywhere that the communication link reaches to select an apparel design and order a paper pattern which will be drafted and printed to fit the body dimensions specified by the customer. For simplicity, “vendors” mean designers, manufacturers, distributors, resellers and the like hereinafter. 
     Referring to FIG. 1, a central computer assembly or system  10  at a vendor site with a communication link  40  connects the central computer assembly  10  to a local computer assembly or system  20  for the exchange of customer and product information. Communication link  40  can include any conventional communication device which can transfer large amounts of data efficiently, such as telephone lines, cable lines, optical fibers or wireless systems that may utilize satellites. While a separate central computer assembly  10  and a local computer assembly or system  20  are being illustrated, it is contemplated that one computer assembly located at a local site can perform all the functions of the central and local computer assemblies combined. It is also contemplated that a consumer may access the central computer assembly  10  from his personal computer through a communication link, such as the internet, for example. 
     The central computer assembly  10  is of conventional design, and comprises a central processor unit  11 , a storage device  12 , an output device  13 , a communication device  14 , and interface cables or connection links  15  which connect the peripheral devices to central processor unit  11 . Central processor unit  11  controls all of the operations of the central computer system  10  and is preferably capable of high speed operations. Storage unit  12  is designed for the storage of databases, such as the stock of various apparel designs and individual customer information and profiles. In the illustrated embodiment, storage unit  12  is a stack of optical disks operating in an optical disk drive having high-speed sampling capability. Other high-capacity storage devices can also be used. Printing of the drafted paper pattern is through output device  13  which, in the illustrated embodiment, is an oversized graphics printer. Any printing devices capable of handling the large sheets of paper on which the apparel patterns are to be printed can be used. Output device  13  preferably includes adequate buffer memory for storing the entire drafted patterns transmitted from the central computer system  10 , in the event that output device  13  is located at a site different than that which houses the central processor unit  11 . Communication device  14  couples to the communication link  40  and transmits and receives information to and from the local computer station  20 . In the illustrated embodiment, communication device  14  is a high speed telephone modem, but may comprise other equipment, such as a cable modem, or a satellite up-link transmitter. Interface cables  15  connecting the peripheral devices  12 ,  13 , and  14  to processor unit  11  are illustratively shown as conventional computer interface cables. 
     Similar to central computer assembly  10 , the local computer station or assembly  20  is also of conventional design comprising a local processor unit  21  for controlling the operations of the local computer assembly, display monitor  22 , an input device  25  and a communication device  23 . The local processor unit  21  is preferably capable of high speed operation. The display device  22  as illustrated is a conventional monitor having adequate resolution to clearly display apparel photographs and designs. Input device  25  allows a customer to input product and customer related information to local processor unit  21 . Input device  25  can be any of the conventional devices, such as a keyboard, a touch pad, a writing pad, a mouse, a voice recognition unit, an automatic body shape scanner, or any combination of the above. Communication device  23  in the illustrated embodiment is a high speed telephonic modem, but can be any device capable of transmitting and receiving information through the communication link  40 . It is preferable that the local computer assembly  20  also be equipped with an output device  27 , which would substantially expedite the delivery of the drafted patterns to the customer and could obviate the need for output device  13 . Output device  27  is similar to output device  13  which has been described previously. In one embodiment of the present invention, the local computer station  20  also includes a measuring device  24  which affords added convenience to the customer. Measuring device  24  is capable of measuring the body dimensions of a customer and is coupled to input device  25  for automatic transmission of the body measurements to local processor unit  21 . Measuring device  24  may be an optical shape sensor for measuring body shapes. The detail of the operation of such an optical shape sensor has been described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,515,268 and is hereby incorporated by reference. The shape sensors are capable of sensing three-dimensional surfaces. Measuring device  24  may also be a much simpler device capable of linear measurements only. 
     Central to the present invention is an apparel design selecting and pattern drafting software program  30 . Apparel design selecting and pattern drafting program  30  is adapted to execute within central processor  11 , and controls the sequential operation of selecting an apparel design and drafting of a paper pattern. The step sequence of design selecting and pattern drafting program  30  will be discussed later. 
     Another key feature of the present invention is an apparel design database  16 . As illustrated in FIG. 2, apparel design database  16  comprises a multiplicity of individual garment design profiles  36 . Each garment profile  36  includes design data  31  and pattern drafting data  32 . Design data  31  includes general garment design information, including target population sector information  42  (e.g., male, female, age categories for whom the garment is designed), garment type  43  (e.g., shirt, skirt, trousers, etc), special styling features  44  (e.g., puff sleeves, trouser legs that flare, fabric choices and/or recommendation), and the cost  45  of producing a pattern. The data is coded such that it can be sorted and easily retrieved at a later time. Pattern drafting data  32  for drafting a pattern of a garment includes a list of body dimensions  33 , a set of drafting commands  34 , a set of body dimension limits  35 , and a set of individualized styling features  41 . The list of body dimensions  33  includes those critical body measurements  38  without which the construction of a customized pattern would be impossible. Examples of critical body measurements are the waistline for a pair of trousers, shoulder widths for a jacket, etc. The consumer must supply the critical measurements  38 . The list of body dimensions  33  also includes those preferred body measurements  39  which make a pattern more individualized. Examples of preferred body measurements are length of a sleeve or a skirt, which can be varied by the consumer for each garment. The preferred body measurements  39  may be supplied from design data  31  using target population standards if the consumer chooses not to supply the measurements. The individualized styling features  41  may include, for example, variations from the standard garment design, such as three-quarter sleeves rather than short sleeves. 
     The drafting command  34  is a set of sequential commands used to draft a reference pattern of the garment. As is typical in the pattern industry, after a garment design is made, an experienced pattern maker constructs a reference pattern using a set of body measurements of the target population and the assistance of a conventional apparel CAD (computer assist design) software program. The commands performed on the reference pattern are sequentially stored in memory as the drafting commands  34 . The executed drafting commands  34  thus stored can be reproduced using different sets of body measurements in the same sequence as performed on the reference pattern to produce target patterns of various sizes. In addition to drafting the reference pattern, the pattern maker also develops a set of body dimension limits  35  within which the garment design is best portrayed. An analysis routine  37  compares body dimension limits  35  to the body dimensions  33  of a target individual and determines whether the chosen garment design is suitable for the body shape of the target individual, in order to insure that an aesthetically pleasing garment is created from the pattern. Analysis routine  37  may also include a visual comparison step of overlaying the selected garment design on a body model constructed from the body measurements of the target individual, and allows that visual representation to be shown to the consumer by way of a drawing, photograph, or image produced on a computer screen, for example. 
     A customer information database  18  stored within the storage unit  12  provides better service to repeat customers. The customer information database  18  contains the body dimensions of the customer, his preferences on fit (tight or loose, and sleeve lengths, trouser lengths, etc.) and preferred method of payment and other pertinent information. The customer information database  18  also contains information of target persons for whom the customer has previously ordered patterns. When the customer logs onto the central computer assembly  10 , the central processor  11  retrieves the stored information, thus saving the customer from a need to reenter this information. 
     A customer dialogue database  19 , also stored in the storage unit  12 , contains customer menu forms for providing information to and requesting information from the customer during the pattern ordering process. The pattern ordering and creating program  30  selects different menu forms depending on the garment design being ordered. 
     FIG. 3 shows a typical dialogue sequence which a customer experiences during the apparel design selecting and pattern ordering process. FIG. 4 lists the pertinent operations exercised by the design selecting and pattern drafting program  30  during the process. The ordering process initiates at step  101 , when a customer logs onto the central computer assembly  10  from a local computer station  20 . Apparel design and pattern drafting program  30  creates a temporary file for the session. Apparel design and pattern drafting program  30  also searches customer information database or data file  18  and retrieves the customer&#39;s data file, if available. At step  102 , the customer is requested to provide personal information or to approve information retrieved from customer information database  18 . Apparel design and pattern drafting program  30  is capable of distinguishing a repeat customer from a new customer when requesting information. For a repeat customer, apparel design selecting and pattern drafting program  30  automatically enters information for that customer from the stored customer data file  18 . The customer is given an opportunity to review and change any information previously entered, and data file  18  is then updated with the changed information. At steps  103 - 105 , the customer specifies the target individual&#39;s (for whom the pattern is ordered) population sector (e.g., age and gender), as well as the type and style of the garment desired. Apparel design selecting and pattern drafting program  30  searches design database  16  and retrieves the designs that meet the combined criteria. At step  106 , the customer reviews the retrieved designs. The customer may choose from the available designs or the customer may mix style features from different designs to create a personalized design. In one embodiment, the consumer may directly adjust or select design attributes via a computer screen using a mouse, by using a drag and drop feature, for example. At step  107 , the customer is asked whether a design has been decided upon. If the answer is no, program  30  moves to step  111  and allows the customer to enter different selection criteria and repeats the selection process. If the answer is yes, program  30  continues to step  108 . At step  108 , apparel design selecting and pattern drafting program  30  retrieves the list of required body dimensions  33  for the selected garment design and requests the customer to provide the specific measurements  38  and  39  for these body dimensions  33 . The customer may enter these body measurements manually or, in the case of a repeat customer, simply verify the information retrieved from the customer data file  18 . In one embodiment of the present invention, the data input device  25  is coupled to a measuring device  24  which senses the body measurements of the customer and directly enters the measurements to the computer automatically. The customer will be asked either to supply or approve each of the critical measurements  38  without which the construction of a customized paper pattern would be impossible. 
     Preferred body measurements  39  make the pattern more individualized. The preferred body measurements  39  may be supplied as measurements in reference to a specific body point; e.g., the customer may specify that a sleeve extend to one inch from the elbow. Alternatively, the customer may dictate the dimension of the finished garment; e.g., the customer may specify that a sleeve extend eight inches from the shoulder seam. If the customer chooses not to supply preferred body measurements  39 , the apparel selecting and pattern drafting program  30  will provide the data from design data  31 , assuming target population body type and size standards from the target population sector information  42 . At step  108 , the customer may also select fabric type, color and pattern. Program  30  may also provide instructions for matching fabric patterns within the garment, or may print the pattern directly on the fabric itself, so that the pattern of the fabric is automatically matched when the garment pieces are sewn together. 
     The customer may change any of the standard information. Any measurement that is specifically entered by the customer will override computer provided measurements such that the customer has complete freedom to specify the body measurements needed to prepare the pattern. When the customer is satisfied with the body measurements entered, program  30  moves on to step  109 . 
     At step  109 , apparel selection and pattern drafting program  30  executes analysis routine  37  to determine whether the given set of body measurements  33  is within body dimension limits  35  set by the pattern drafter. Apparel design selecting and pattern drafting program  30  informs the customer of one of the three probable results: 1) the pattern can be drafted and the finished garment will be within the design criteria, 2) the pattern can be drafted, but because some measurements are outside the design criteria, the finished garment may not look true to the design, or 3) the pattern cannot be drafted because the body measurements are outside the design range and would conflict with some design criteria. In one embodiment of the present invention, the analysis routine  37  includes a visual routine to aid the customer for making the decision. The visual routine preferably produces an overlay image of a rendering of the finished garment with the selected measurements onto a three-dimensional body model having the body measurements of the target individual. Program  30  may also automatically adjust the appearance and the pattern dimensions based on the type and weight of fabric selected at step  108 . At steps  109  and  110 , the customer is given the option of going forward with the order, rejecting the current design and making another selection, adjusting the body or garment measurements for a better fit, or terminating the session by logging off at step  118 . The customer may choose to adjust the garment measurements at step  122 , wherefore, the program returns to step  108 , so that the customer may enter new measurements. Analysis routine  37  will then repeat with the new dimensions. At step  123 , the customer may also make other selections after accepting the current selection. Apparel design selecting and pattern drafting program  30  simply saves the current selection and returns the customer to the selection sequence at step  111  where the customer may select a different style feature, a different type of garment at step  112 , or make a selection for a different target individual at step  113 , respectively. After a customer indicates at step  114  that she has made all the selections she wishes, at step  115  the customer is given the opportunity to review and approve the selections made. At step  116 , program  30  requests payment and delivery information. At step  117 , upon receipt and verification of payment information, program  30  issues a confirmation to the customer and terminates the session. The pattern ordering program  30  then retrieves drafting commands  34  at step  119  and drafts the patterns at step  120  for the designs selected. The drafted pattern may be delivered to the consumer (at step  121 ) via normal delivery channels or electronically if the local computer  20  is equipped with a suitable output device  27 . 
     While the invention has been illustrated and described in detail in the drawings and foregoing description, these are to be considered as illustrative and not restrictive in character, it being understood that only one preferred embodiment has been shown and described and that all changes and modifications that come within the spirit of the invention are desired to be protected.