We only got to see a little of the city as we rode to our hotel. For one thing, the smog limited visibility to about a dozen blocks or so. And much of the drive was confined to the city’s complex system of elevated autoroutes. But we did dip down to ground level now and then—exiting a ramp at a dizzying speed that made me clutch the edge of my seat—and so we saw a little bit of street-level Tenochtitlán.