"IT'S changing," Fontaine says, meaning the bridge and how they live on it. He's told her about the tendency to build these shops, how most of them are built with nonresident money, the owners hiring people to live there and maintain possession. "That Lucky Dragon," he says, cupping a white china mug of his bitter, silted coffee, "that's there because someone decided the money was there for it to make. Tourists buying what they need to come out here. That wouldn't have happened, before."