You could tell the tourists from the locals, both on the sand and in the water. The tourists were pale white—like slugs under a rock—or turning a painful-looking pinky-red. (I started thinking about sunscreen and the thinning ozone layer. I'd brought some spray-on SPF 45 goop, but would that be enough? I looked down at my arms: as slug-white as the other newbies.) In contrast, the locals—there weren't that many of them, for some reason—were all bronze or mahogany, the comfortable deep-down tan I'd seen on Sharon Young back in Cheyenne.