In and around the crowds of spectators, I saw clowns capering, fire breathers shooting jets of flame into the air, and a man leading a muzzled bear. Servants, dressed in white formal clothes instead of the more casual sweaters and slacks of their masters, circulated with silver trays of champagne glasses. At white tents set in strategic locations, I saw what looked to be mountains of strawberries and silver fondue services filled with steaming chocolate.