At the far end of the courtyard stood the looming bulk of the sixteenth-century church that had dominated this town’s skyline for centuries. A rusted and bullet-scarred sign we passed identified it as the Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal. This must be the church where the feathered serpent Soñador had said we could contact the priest who’d helped Mama Grande. Sanctuary of the Virgin—the most likely spot to find an alcove of the Virgin. Besides, it was the only church in town that was still standing.