Posts tagged CBD
If you’re suffering from inflammation of the gut, it’s not the THC you want, it’s the CBD.
The scientific literature now brims with potential uses for cannabis that extend beyond its well-known abilities to fend off nausea and block pain in people with cancer and AIDS. Cannabis derivatives may combat multiple sclerosis, Crohn’s disease and other inflammatory conditions, the new research finds. Cannabis may even kill cancerous tumors.
Within two decades, other researchers had developed synthetic THC to use in pill form.
The secrets of how THC worked in the body lay hidden until the late 1980s, when researchers working with rats found that the compound binds to a protein that pops up on the surface of nerve cells. Further tests showed that THC also hooks up with another protein found elsewhere in the body. These receptor proteins were dubbed CB1 and CB2.
A bigger revelation came in 1992: Mammals make their own compound that binds to, and switches on, the CB1 receptor. Scientists named the compound anandamide. Researchers soon found its counterpart that binds mainly to the CB2 receptor, calling that one 2AG, for 2-arachidonyl glycerol. The body routinely makes these compounds, called endocannabinoids, and sends them into action as needed.
“THC just mimics the effects of these compounds in our bodies,” Mechoulam says. Although the receptors are abundant, anandamide and 2AG are short-acting compounds, so their effects are fleeting.
From a biological standpoint, smoking pot to get high is like starting up a semitruck just to listen to the radio. There’s a lot more going on.
More than a dozen medical trials in the past decade have shown that treatments containing THC (and some that combine THC with another derivative called cannabidiol, or CBD)
CBD, the same cannabis component that proved beneficial alongside THC for MS, may also work on other hard-to-treat diseases. Tests on cell cultures and lab animals have revealed that CBD fights inflammation and mitigates the psychoactive effects of THC.
Crohn’s disease, which can lead to chronic pain, diarrhea and ulcerations, could be a fitting target for CBD. In Crohn’s disease, inflammatory proteins damage the intestinal lining, causing leaks that allow bacteria in the gut to spread where they shouldn’t. This spread leads to a vicious cycle that can trigger more inflammation.
Karen Wright, a pharmacologist at Lancaster University in England, and her colleagues have found that CBD inhibits this inflammation and can reverse the microscopic intestinal leakiness in lab tests of human cells.
The results bolster earlier findings by Wright’s team showing that cannabinoids could improve wound healing in intestinal cells.
CBD’s anti-inflammatory effect may work, at least in some cases, through its antioxidant properties — the ability to soak up highly reactive molecules called free radicals, which cause cell damage.
“CBD has essentially been bred out of North American black market drug strains,” Russo says. People growing cannabis for its recreational qualities have preferred plants high in THC, so people lighting up for medical purposes, whether to boost appetite in AIDS patients or alleviate cancer pain, may be missing a valuable cannabis component.Read more at www.sciencenews.org


HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT RESIN
We’ve said it before, materials matter. Selecting the best resin for your plastic manufacturing project is critical, especially when your finished components are meant to withstand extreme heat, pressure, or other harsh conditions. So how do you know which type of resin is appropriate for your application? Join us for thermoset vs thermoplastic: a comprehensive examination of the distinctions between resins. Gain valuable insights into their respective properties and applications, empowering you to make informed decisions for your projects.
Thermoset vs Thermoplastic: What’s the Difference?
Thermosets and thermoplastics are two separate classes of plastic materials that differ in their properties, product applications, and the methods used to manufacture them.
A thermoset is any plastic material that cures once it’s hardened by heat. Thermosets are usually stored in liquid form, but once they’re hardened/cured, they can’t be reshaped (even under extreme heat).
A thermoplastic is any plastic material with a relatively low melting point that becomes molten when heated and solid when cooled. Unlike thermosets, thermoplastics are generally stored in pellet form. The curing process is fully reversible so that they can be re-melted and re-molded after cooling. Thermoplastic materials are generally more cost-effective, as they’re produced in larger volumes and are easier to process.
Choosing the Right Resin for a Range of Applications
Thermosets are appropriate for high-performance applications where strength, impact resistance, and heat resistance are critical. They’re ideal for electronic, automotive, chemical processing, and other potentially harsh applications. You’re unlikely to find single-use products made with thermoset resins. They are usually produced using reaction injection molding or resin transfer molding instead of standard injection molding methods.
On the other hand, thermoplastics are perfect for injection molding. Thermoplastic resins like polyethylene (PE), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) are highly versatile and appropriate for a wide range of medical, industrial, consumer, and energy industry applications. While thermoplastics are not as heat-resistant as thermosets, they are still thermally stable, durable, and high-impact-resistant.
Recyclability and Sustainability
There is a winner in the thermoset vs thermoplastic sustainability battle. Thermosets can’t be recycled, but thermoplastics can. Thermoplastics are currently the more environmentally-friendly manufacturing choice because they produce fewer toxic fumes than thermosets and can be re-melted and re-shaped with little to no impact on material properties. However, chemists at MIT have recently developed a way to modify thermoset plastics that allows them to be more easily broken down.
At Houston Plastic Products, we have nearly 60 years of experience manufacturing injection-molded parts for more than 15 industries. We’re happy to collaborate with you to find the best resin and the optimal design for your end-to-end plastics manufacturing needs. Contact us today so we can start molding your vision.


Our range of in-house designed chemical injection valves allow the injection of chemicals at any point in the tubing string while overcoming the pressure and temperature effects of the well. The injection mandrel is installed as an integral part of the tubing with the dual check valve assembly, connected to the injection line, is mounted on the outside of the mandrel. The check valve cartridge incorporates a dual valve system (for redundancy) and a burst disc to protect the valves while running in hole.
Chemical injection valves have been designed and supplied to cover tubing ranges from 2-3/8” top 7” with pressures up to 15,000 psi and temperatures up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit, and injection points into the production/injection tubing or the annulus. A wide range of material is available to suit reservoir conditions, including extremely sour environments.


Where temperatures often soar beyond comfort, an efficiently running air conditioning system is not just a luxury but a necessity. However, many homeowners overlook a critical component that directly impacts AC efficiency: the type of refrigerant used. In this comprehensive guide brought to you by KAC Express, we delve deep into the significance of refrigerant types and their implications on your AC’s performance, energy consumption, environmental impact, and your overall comfort. Whether you’re considering AC repair in Spring, TX, understanding refrigerants is paramount.
Refrigerants are the lifeblood of air conditioning systems, responsible for absorbing heat from indoor air and releasing it outside. Over the years, different types of refrigerants have been used in AC units, each with its unique properties and environmental impacts.
In the past, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) and hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs) were commonly used as refrigerants due to their excellent thermodynamic properties. However, these compounds were found to be detrimental to the ozone layer and were phased out under the Montreal Protocol.
Transition to HFCs:
Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs) emerged as the primary alternative to CFCs and HCFCs. While HFCs do not deplete the ozone layer, they are potent greenhouse gases with high global warming potential (GWP). Common HFCs used in AC systems include R-410A and R-134a.
The Rise of Low-GWP Refrigerants:
In recent years, concerns about climate change have led to efforts to phase out HFCs in favor of low-GWP alternatives. These alternatives, such as hydrofluoroolefins (HFOs) and hydrocarbons, offer similar or better performance than HFCs with significantly lower environmental impact.
Impact on AC Efficiency: The choice of refrigerant has a profound impact on the efficiency of an air conditioning system. Here’s how different refrigerants influence AC performance:
- Energy Efficiency: The thermodynamic properties of refrigerants determine their energy efficiency. Refrigerants with higher latent heat of vaporization and lower boiling points can absorb more heat per unit of volume, leading to improved cooling efficiency.
- Coefficient of Performance (COP): COP is a measure of the cooling output of an AC system relative to the energy input. Refrigerants with higher COP values allow for more efficient cooling, resulting in lower energy consumption and operating costs.
- System Design and Compatibility: The choice of refrigerant also affects the design and components of the AC system. Some refrigerants may require modifications to the compressor, condenser, and other components to ensure optimal performance and compatibility.
- Environmental Impact: Perhaps the most significant consideration in refrigerant selection is its environmental impact. While HFCs have been widely used in the past, their high GWP makes them unsustainable in the long run. Low-GWP refrigerants offer a more environmentally friendly alternative without compromising performance.
Choosing the Right Refrigerant for Your AC:
- Regulatory Compliance: Ensure that the refrigerant you choose complies with current regulations and environmental standards. As regulations evolve, it’s essential to future-proof your AC system by opting for low-GWP refrigerants.
- Performance and Efficiency: Evaluate the thermodynamic properties and performance characteristics of different refrigerants to determine which one best suits your cooling needs. Look for refrigerants with high energy efficiency and COP values to minimize operating costs.
- Long-Term Sustainability: Consider the long-term sustainability of the refrigerant in terms of its environmental impact and availability. Low-GWP alternatives offer a more sustainable solution that aligns with global efforts to combat climate change.
- Manufacturer Recommendations: Consult with HVAC professionals or manufacturers like KAC Express to understand their recommendations for refrigerant selection. They can provide valuable insights based on their experience and expertise in the field.
Conclusion: In the quest for optimal AC efficiency, the choice of refrigerant plays a pivotal role. By understanding the impact of different refrigerants on performance, energy efficiency, and environmental sustainability, you can make informed decisions that maximize comfort while minimizing costs and environmental footprint. At KAC Express, we’re committed to helping our customers in Spring, TX, achieve peak AC performance with sustainable refrigerant solutions. Contact us today to learn more about our AC repair and maintenance services tailored to your needs.


In a stroke of scientific genius, a German researcher enjoying a box of popcorn in a dark movie theater realized that the overpriced, butter-soaked concession had the exact same size and consistency as Styrofoam packing peanuts.
Considering the polystyrene-based latter takes centuries to break down into yet smaller bits of harmful microplastic, and requires fossil fuel extraction to manufacture, Alireza Kharazipour thought it was worth experimenting with puffed corn kernels as a replacement for them.
Polystyrene is one of the most enduring synthetic materials humans have developed. It has enabled packaging to take on very precise forms and provides excellent packing safety for fragile electronics on the move while costing pennies to manufacture. However, along with being among the least biodegradable plastics, many recycling facilities don’t even have the capabilities for processing it.
Taking corn waste products produced from making corn flakes, then filling them with steam creates what Kharazipour and his team at Gottingen University call “granulated popcorn.”
“The products are very light because popcorn granules are filled with air like honeycombs,” Kharazipour tells Fast Company. “When grain maize expands into popcorn, the volume increases by 15% to 20%.”
The popcorn packing can be made from any type of corn, and is completely biodegradable. Large pieces can be compressed into shapes to hold different products, and can be easily sawed into pieces, either for cutting into precise shapes, or for shredding at the end of its life.
Around 3 million tons of polystyrene, (which is a lot considering it’s 95% air) are produced in the U.S. every year, mostly for things like takeaway drink and meal containers. The brilliance of Kharazipour’s idea has landed him an exclusive licensing agreement with a medium-sized grain and cereal company in Europe called Nordgetreide for manufacturing various popcorn packing products.
Stefan Schult, Managing Director of Nordgetreide, states: “Each and every day we pollute our Earth with an ever increasing amount of plastic waste that will be a burden on our eco-system for thousands of years. Our popcorn packaging is a great sustainable alternative to polystyrene which is derived from petroleum.” That’s hopeful news indeed.
SHARE the Good Green News With Friends on Social Media…
#Shipping #Material #Replace #Polystyrene #Peanuts #Compressed #Popcorn


I wanted a little alliteration for the title of this week’s blog post and so turkey and tryptophan were naturals. Little did I know, testosterone was associated with this Thanksgiving Day tradition.
We all know about the Turkey-tryptophan connection. Turkey contains high levels of the amino acid, tryptophan, the precursor for serotonin, and melatonin, the sleep hormone. Many have speculated that by ingesting high quantities of turkey on Thanksgiving, we increase our serotonin levels and hence, our ability to relax. It is more likely, however, that we increase our sleepiness quotient by increasing melatonin. Or as others suggest, perhaps we just eat too many carbs and throw our bodies in insulin overload, which then elicits sleep.
Unbeknownst to me, prior to writing this article was the connection between turkey and testosterone. Eating turkey, especially one that is organically grown, increases testosterone concentrations. There is a feedback loop, however. Too much tryptophan decreases testosterone, at least in male rats.
Interestingly, diets high in estrone (the estrogen precursor to estradiol), not only do not show the same benefits of post-turkey day increased tryptophan and serotonin, there is marked decrease in niacin levels (vitamin B3). Naturally higher circulating concentrations of estrone in women may be what predisposes us to vitamin B deficiencies and whole host of other conditions.
Perhaps even more interesting, eating non-organic turkey appears to decrease testosterone and increases the concentration of circulating estrogens (further slanting our odds of vitamin B deficiency). Researchers and organic food advocates suggests the increased estrone and estradiol concentrations observed in those who eat commercially grown poultry are linked to the many hormone supplements used by today’s food producers. Though evidence is limited, given the overwhelming use of endocrine disruptors throughout our food chain, this association is certainly plausible and merits additional investigation.
As we approach Thanksgiving, food for thought: how food affects hormone health. If any of our followers in the blogosphere have an interest and expertise in the connection between food and hormones, we would welcome your blog posts.
Happy Thanksgiving Lucine Women.


I love Cherry Blossom Soap!
This delightful floral fragrance always makes me think of spring. I like to keep a bar of cherry blossom soap in the shower shortly after the start of the year to remind me that spring isn’t too much further away. In Japan, there is a tradition to picnic underneath the cherry blossom trees. Many poets have written about sitting under the trees in the moonlight with cascades of cherry blossom petals raining down around them. I don’t know about you, but that sounds like a lovely evening!
What’s in Cherry Blossom Soap?
Ingredients are as follows:
- Olive Oil Pomace/Rice Bran Oil blend
- Palm Oil
- Coconut Oil
- Avocado Oil
- Palm Kernel Oil Flakes
- Cherry Blossom Fragrance Oil
- sodium hydroxide for the chemical reaction to make soap
We recommend that you use a draining soap dish with any handmade soap. Because a draining soap dish will give your bar of soap the opportunity to dry out between uses. This way you bar of soap will last much longer. Have you ever noticed that the bar of soap sitting in the puddle of water in your shower has become soft and mushy? When you’re soap is sitting in water, it is slowly dissolving.
Looking for more?
If you like Cherry Blossom Soap, you might want to try our Orange Blossom Soap as well!
You can also follow us on Instagram and Facebook!


If you are looking around on how to clean a computer screen, you can use a homemade cleaning agent other than purchasing a cleaning solution. It is easy to make and is very effective. What you will need are clean distilled water (avoid tap water as they contain a lot of minerals which can damage the screen which may cause computer screen getting discolored) and white vinegar.
Before you begin, wipe the computer with a clean dry cloth to remove the dust particles from the screen.
Start by adding a 50% white vinegar and 50% distilled water mixture.
Clean computer screen using that solution.
If you find that the cleaning agent is not strong enough you may add more white vinegar to the solution.
NOTE: Things to remember while cleaning the computer screen.
- Make sure the monitor or the computer is POWERED OFF before you clean.
- Avoid directly applying the solution to the screen such as using a spray, wet the cloth with the solution and clean the screen.
- Do not use any liquid on the computer screen.
- Do not use hard cloth.
- Do not use any object or your fingernails to remove stubborn stains on the screen.
- Always use a soft, lint-free cloth (do not use paper towels, Dishtowels or Facial tissues)
- Use a solution of distilled water and mild soap if required to remove stubborn stains.


Introduction to Stainless Steel
What is Stainless Steel?
Stainless steel is a generic term for a group of corrosion resistant steels containing minimum of 10.5% of chromium. Varying additions of nickel, molybdenum, titanium, niobium and other elements may be present. The mechanical properties and behaviour in service of the various types depends upon their composition, and hence careful selection of the most appropriate type is vital to success in any application.
Types of Stainless Steel
There are five basic categories of stainless steel – Austenitic, Ferritic, Duplex, Martensitic and Precipitation Hardening. The austenitic grades are non-magnetic and in addition to chromium, typically at the 18% level, contain nickel (which improves fabrication and corrosion resistance) and are the most widely used group of stainless steels. The ferritic grades are magnetic, have a low carbon content and contain chromium as the main element, typically at the 13% and 17% levels. Duplex stainless steels have a mixed ferritic/austenitic structure. Chromium content varies from 18-28% and nickel from 4.5-8%. Duplex grades find application particularly where chlorides are present. The martensitic grades are magnetic containing typically 12% chromium and a moderate carbon content; are hardenable by quenching and tempering like plain carbon steels and find application mainly in cutlery manufacture, aerospace and general engineering. Precipitation hardening steels have chromium content at 17% typically with additions of nickel, copper and niobium. Precipitation hardening stainless steels have a minimum of 17% chromium and contain other elements that can provide strengthening through a precipitation hardening mechanism. They are capable of achieving very high strengths with proof stresses ranging in the 1000 - 1500 Mpa range depending on the type and the actual heat treatment.
Austenitic and ferritic grades account for approximately of stainless steel applications.
All stainless steels have a high resistance to corrosion. This remarkable resistance to attack is due to the naturally occurring chromium-rich oxide film present on the surface of the steel. Although extremely thin, this invisible, inert film is tightly adherent to the metal and extremely protective in a wide range of corrosion media. The film is rapidly self-repairing in the presence of oxygen and damage by abrasion, cutting or machining is instantaneously repaired.
In general the corrosion resistance of stainless steels improves as the chromium content increases. The addition of nickel raises corrosion resistance making these steels suitable for more aggressive conditions. The addition of molybdenum to the austenitic, terrific and duplex grades improves pitting corrosion resistance and produces the most resistant grades in these categories.
The lower alloyed ferritics are limited to mildly corrosive environment, often being used in less demanding applications.
Superior corrosion resistance and ease of cleaning results in widespread use of austenitic stainless steels in food and beverage equipment. Austenitic grades are also highly resistant to the wide range of rural and industrial atmospheres, resulting in extensive use in architectural and structural applications. Resistance to attack by acids, alkalis and other chemicals, has led to a wide use in the chemical and process plant industries.
Both ferritic and austenitic stainless steels are often found in household products.
Maintenance will usually involve simple cleaning methods to provide a clean, bright, attractive finish and lone service life.
Selection of the correct grade and finish is very important to obtain the corrosion resistance required. Aggressive corrosive media can necessitate the use of one of the more highly alloyed stainless steel grades.
The ferritic stainless steels can be welded in thin sections, but advice should be sought in welding practices. The austenitic and duplex stainless steels are readily welded by the full variety of welding techniques. Welding practices that incorporate high heat input and slow cooling rates, particularly on thick sections; can impair corrosion resistance adjacent to welds. To overcome this titanium stabilised grades and low carbon (L) grades have been developed. Brazing and soldering can be carried out successfully with light sections.
There is a wide range of stainless steels with other attractive properties to complement their corrosion resistance? the austenitic steels provide an example, Most austenitic grades have excellent formability and impact strength. The common grades can be used up to around 600°C or slightly higher if scaling resistance is the only consideration. More highly alloyed grades can raise this temperature appreciably with many furnaces using higher chromium and nickel grades up to 1100°C. They perform well at cryogenic temperatures, retaining excellent ductility and impact properties. Cold working and forming processes considerably increase the strength and hardness of austenitic grades, a property exploited in springs and structural components. The addition of nitrogen to austenitic and duplex grades increases strength and hardness which are retained after welding or heat treatment. Selection of the correct grade is thus important to give the best combination of properties for the application.
Stainless steel grades have designations derived from various sources. “18/8” or “l8/10” for instance is a non-technical description often seen describing grade 304 or its equivalents.
a. AISI three digit designations such as 304 or 316 are now the most widely used system, being adopted, sometimes with minor variations by Standards bodies. Japan, Britain and Australia. They are also used in ASTM specifications which tend to be used, or at le understood in almost every country. The system proven durable, but inadequate to cope with new alloys. Extra letters designate alloy variants, such as 304L, 316LN or 310S.
b. UNS numbers address the inadequacies of the AI system. One letter ("S" for wrought stainless steels, for cast) plus five digits based on the AISI numb Grade 304 is UNS S30400, 304L is S30403 and 304H is S30409. Grade 904L is officially classified as a nickel based alloy hence designated UNS N08904.
c. European designations originated as German Werkstoff Numbers (eg 1.4301 for Grade 304) or DIN grade designations leg X5CrNi 189 for 304). Similar descriptive designations were used in other European countries. These are now incorporated in “Euronorm” specifications which replace national specification throughout the European Union.
d. Proprietary designations have often been given alloys by their original manufacturer. Standard designations are later added when alloys are widely accepted, but the proprietary designations often persist. Examples are "253 MA" which is an Avesta Sheffi trademark (UNS equivalent is S30815) and "SAF2304” (which is a Sandvik trademark (UNS equivalent S32304).
e. Cast alloys are often loosely referred to by equivalent wrought designations, but a cast "304" has different composition and properties. The section on Castings gives further details.
Alloying Elements in Stainless Steel
Stainless steel is a steel to which a minimum 10.5% chromium and other alloying elements are added. The addition of different elements influences the mechanical, physical and corrosion resistant properties of stainless steel. Listed below is a summary of the effects of the most important alloying elements.
In most stainless steels carbon (C) is kept to low levels, typically 0.05% C, or 0.03% C in the low carbon "L" grades and other stainless steels used for fabricated components in thicker sections. However, in martensitic stainless steels C is the alloying element added, in amounts varying from 0.15% - 1.2% C, to render these steels heat treatable by quenching and tempering to develop high strength and hardness levels.
A minimum of 10.5% Chromium (Cr) is needed in stainless steel, at which level a continuous, stable and inert (passive) chromium oxide film forms on the surface, producing resistance to corrosion, both wet (aqueous) and dry (gaseous). Higher levels of Cr (up to about 26% Cr) further increase corrosion resistance.
Nickel (Ni), if added to stainless in sufficient quantity, develops a fully austenitic crystal structure, hence austenitic stainless steels, as typified by grade 304 (18% Cr 8% Ni). Lower levels of Ni, insufficient to develop a fully austenitic crystal structure, can result in a duplex (mixed) crystal structure of ferrite and austenite (found in duplex stainless steels).
Molybdenum (Mo) enhances the properties of the passive surface film, and renders stainless steels which contain it more corrosion resistant, particularly to pitting in chloride environments. The higher the Mo content the more aggressive the corrosive conditions that can be handled (eg grade 316 with 2% Mo and grade S31254 with 6% Mo).
Titanium (Ti) is added to produce stabilised grades such as 321. Titanium is a strong carbide former and preferentially forms Ti carbides obstructing the formation of Cr carbides. This activity prevents intergranular corrosion occurring in the region adjacent to welds.
Manganese (Mn) like Ni promotes the formation of an austenitic crystal structure. In the 200 series austenitic stainless steels Mn is used to partially replace Ni. Min is also increased to slightly higher levels than normal in the free machining grades of stainless steel to which sulphur (S) or selenium (Se) have been added.
Sulphur (S) is normally kept to very low levels, typically 0.03% maximum, but in practice much lower. If increased to around 0.2% S (as in grade 303) the machinability, of the steel is improved, but the fabricational, mechanical and corrosion resistant properties are impaired.
Niobium & Tantalum
Niobium (Nb) and Tantalum (Ta) are stabilising elements with effects similar to Ti. Grades incorporating Nb and Ta are seldom used, the Ti stabilised grades being preferred. However, Nb is used for the manufacture of welding consumables (grade 347 in both electrodes and i1ler wire), as Ti tends to be lost in transfer across the arc.
Nitrogen (N) promotes an austenitic crystal structure, and is used to complement Ni in the "N" grades of austenitic stainless steels. The yield strength of such grades at subzero temperatures is vastly improved. N is also used in duplex stainless steels (eg S31803) to increase the austenitic fraction of the crystal structure. improving weldability.
Silicon (Si) is added to improve the scaling resistance of austenitc heat resistant stainless steels (such as 314 and S30815). In castings higher Si content increases the fluidity of the molten metal improving the "castability" and high Si GMAW (MIG) welding wire is usual as the Si promotes washing and wetting behaviour.
Useful Facts About Stainless Steel
Conditions Which Favour Use of Stainless Steel
Key Considerations in Working Stainless Steels
- Corrosive Environments
- Very low (cryogenic) temperatures — prevents brittleness
- High temperatures — prevents scale maintains strength
- High strength vs mass
- Hygienic conditions required — easy cleanability
- Aesthetic appearance — no rust, thus no paint necessary
- No contamination — prevents catalytic reactions
- Discharge slideability from hoppers
- Wet abrasion resistance
- Non-magnetic properties of austenitic grades
- Know the material: this improves decision making, avoids problems and saves costs.
- Know the grade of material: Connect material selection is vital risk taking is costly.
- Know the design: Good design ensures savings for fabricator and user.
- Know surface finishes: Good finishes perform wall look good and promote sales.
- Know your supplier
- Apply good housekeeping: Good housekeeping saves rectification costs.
- Apply accurate identification: Lost identity can prove costly.
- Apply production planning: Planning saves costs and promotes quality
All stainless steels have a much lower conductivity than that of carbon (mild) steel (plain chromium grades approximately ¼). This must be borne in mind for any operation which involves high temperature, e.g. effects during welding (control of heat input), longer times required for heating to attain a uniform temperature for hot working.
Plain chromium grades have an expansion coefficient similar to carbon (mild) steels, but that of the austenitic grades is about one and a half times higher. The combination of high expansion and low thermal conductivity means that precautions must be taken to avoid adverse effects, e.g. during welding use low heat input dissipate heat by use of copper backing bars and use adequate jigging. This factor must also be considered in components which use a mixture of materials, e.g. a heat exchanger with a mild steel shell and austenitic grade tubes.
Stainless steels rely on a very thin surface passive film for their corrosion resistance. It is vital to maintain and preserve the integrity of the passive film.
- Avoid mechanical damage and contamination.
- Repair any affected areas (e.g. high temperature scale adjacent to a weld, mechanically damaged or ground areas, contaminated areas), by passivation only or by both pickling and passivation
- Ensure a constant and sufficient availability of oxygen at the surface of the stainless steel
Stainless steels have a tendency to gall, pick-up or seize. To avoid this take precautions such as:
Stainless Steel — High Quality, but NOT indestructible
- For surfaces experiencing relative motion - minimise the load, ensure no heat build up, keep free of grit or contaminants, use lubricants or surface coatings.
- On threaded components the threads must have a high degree of surface finish, components should have an intermediate to free fit. avoid over?torque and contamination of the threads.
DO store away from carbon steels.
DO use storage racks and handling equipment protected by: plastic, dry timber, felt, etc., which will not mark the surface of the steel or permit contact with carbon steel.
DO handle with care and avoid damage to the product’s shape.
DO use clean gloves
WHEN supplied on product, keep the protective plastic or strippable coating intact as long as possible?it helps prevent damage in the period between delivery and final installation.
DON'T allow contact with carbon or other steels, especially use of tools or equipment used on carbon steel.
DON'T walk on the steel.
DON'T scratch the steel.
DON'T allow contact with foreign substances, e.g. fingerprints, oil, grease.
DON'T expose protective coatings, when applied to the steel, to direct sunlight unless special UV resistant marks are on the coating.


What is ChemDraw?
ChemDraw is a powerful software tool that allows scientists and researchers to communicate complex chemical structures, biological pathways, and models using a natural language approach. It is widely used in the field of chemistry and related disciplines to create accurate and visually appealing representations of molecules and reactions.
Creating Chemical Structures
With ChemDraw, users can easily draw chemical structures by simply clicking and dragging atoms and bonds onto the canvas. The software provides a wide range of tools and features to ensure accuracy and precision in creating these structures. Users can choose from a vast library of chemical templates, atoms, and bonds, making it easy to represent even the most complex molecules.
Visualizing Biological Pathways
ChemDraw goes beyond just chemical structures and allows users to visualize and represent biological pathways. This feature is particularly useful in fields such as biochemistry and molecular biology, where understanding the interactions between molecules and pathways is crucial. Users can easily create diagrams and models that depict the flow of information and molecules within a biological system.
Modeling and Simulating Reactions
Another powerful aspect of ChemDraw is its ability to model and simulate chemical reactions. Users can input the reactants and conditions, and the software will generate a step-by-step representation of the reaction process. This feature is invaluable in predicting the outcome of reactions and understanding the underlying mechanisms.
Collaboration and Sharing
ChemDraw also offers collaboration and sharing capabilities, allowing researchers to work together on projects and easily share their work with others. Users can export their drawings and models in various formats, making it compatible with other software and platforms. This promotes seamless collaboration and enhances the exchange of ideas and findings within the scientific community.
In summary, ChemDraw is a versatile and essential tool for scientists and researchers in the field of chemistry. Its ability to communicate complex chemical structures, visualize biological pathways, and model reactions makes it an invaluable asset in various scientific disciplines. By providing an intuitive and user-friendly interface, ChemDraw empowers scientists to effectively convey their ideas and findings, ultimately advancing the understanding and knowledge in the field of chemistry.


Q. Can I use the sunscreen I bought last summer, or do I need to purchase a new bottle each year? Does it lose strength?
A. Unless indicated by an expiration date, the FDA requires that all sunscreens be stable and at their original strength for at least three years.
While you can use the sunscreen that you bought last summer, keep in mind that if you are using the appropriate amount, a bottle of sunscreen should not last you very long.
Approximately one ounce of sunscreen, enough to fill a shot glass, is considered the amount needed to cover the exposed areas of the body properly.
Q. What is the difference between UVA and UVB light wavelengths and will a sunscreen protect me from both?
A. Sunlight consists of two types of harmful rays - UVA rays and UVB rays.
The UVB rays are the sun's burning rays (which are blocked by window glass) and are the primary cause of sunburn and skin cancer.
UVA rays (which pass through window glass) penetrate deeper into the dermis, or base layer of the skin. They also contribute to sunburns and skin cancer.
Both UVA and UVB rays can cause suppression of the immune system which helps to protect you against the development and spread of skin cancer.
Since PABA and PABA esters only protect against UVB light, check for a broad-spectrum sunscreen that also screens UVA rays.
Ingredients like benzophenones, oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and avobenzone (Parsol 1789), extend the coverage beyond the UVB range and into the UVA range, helping to make sunscreens broad-spectrum.
Q. What is an SPF?
A. SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor.
Sunscreens are rated or classified by the strength of their SPF. The SPF numbers on the packaging can range from as low as 2 to greater than 50. These numbers refer to the product's ability to screen or block out the sun's burning rays.
The sunscreen SPF rating is calculated by comparing the amount of time needed to produce a sunburn on sunscreen protected skin to the amount of time needed to cause a sunburn on unprotected skin.
For example, if a sunscreen is rated SPF 2 and a fair-skinned person who would normally turn red after ten minutes of exposure in the sun uses it, it would take twenty minutes of exposure for the skin to turn red.
A sunscreen with an SPF of 15 would allow that person to multiply that initial burning time by 15, which means it would take 15 times longer to burn, or 150 minutes.
Dermatologists strongly recommend using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or greater year-round for all skin types.
Q. Does SPF 30 have twice as much sun protection as SPF 15?
A. SPF protection does not actually increase proportionately with a designated SPF number.
In higher SPFs, such as an SPF of 30, 97 percent of sunburning rays are absorbed, while an SPF of 15 indicates 93 percent absorption and an SPF of 2 equals 50 percent absorption.
Recent research suggests that high SPF sunscreens are an appropriate choice for very sun sensitive individuals (skin types I and II). One study determined that skin protected by an SPF 15 sunscreen and then exposed to 15 times the minimum dose of sunlight normally required to cause redness produced 2.5 times the number of sunburn cells seen in SPF 30 protected skin with the same dose of sunlight.
These results suggest that prevention of redness does not necessarily mean prevention of all sun-induced damage. More research is currently underway on the protective effects of sunscreens on different skin types.
Q. Does the SPF tell how well a sunscreen protects against UVA or UVB rays?
A. The SPF number on sunscreens only reflects the product's screening ability for UVB rays.
At present, there is no FDA-approved rating system that identifies UVA protection. Scientists are working to create a standardized testing system to measure UVA protection.
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Sunscreen - Part 3
Back to Dermatology


radiance clay mask
A powerful detoxing pink clay mask with pure rosehip extract and antioxidant green tea to exfoliate and regenerate, leaving the skin silky smooth and with a beautiful healthy glow. The delicate clay has firming and toning elements that improve the overall texture of the skin providing lasting hydration.
Rosehips is recognised as having one of the highest concentrations of vitamin-C (ascorbic acid), with up to 60 times the vitamin-C of citrus fruit. You might feel a little tingle sensation due to the high amount of vitamin-C.
For maximum effect, leave the facemask on for 15 minutes and finish by wetting your hands and exfoliating the skin with the mask. Rinse off with warm water, ideally in the shower.
Perfect for skin in need of some extra love and care.
Ingredients: Kaolin (australian pink clay) powder, Rosa canina (rosehip,rose rubignosa) extract, Camellia sinensis (green tea) extract. Contains essential fatty acids and minerals, vitamins A- C and E.
Against animal testing.
Keep away from children.
Not for internal use.
Use within 36 months after opening.
Lovingly blended by hand in Iceland.


Confused about thermal compounds? There are many variants, but we only use Artic’s compounds, with Arctic Silver 5 being our preferred choice. However, AS5’s little brother, Ceramique, is a cheaper alternative with similar performance. The difference in performance is explained in this Overclockers post by an Arctic guru:
If we were to send 100 of you AS5 and Ceramique, I would expect that 65 to 75 would get the lowest temps with AS5 and 25 to 35 would get the lowest temps with Ceramique.
The contact areas of every CPU and heatsink are different. Some are flat, some are concave to one extent or another, and some are convex to one extent or another. Some surfaces are very smooth, others are slightly irregular and some are rough. The pressure applied to the thermal interface joint varies from heatsink to heatsink both in total and in evenness across the surface.
All these variables affect how well a certain thermal compound works on a given CPU and heatsink. There is much more to the real-world performance of a thermal interface than the bulk thermal conductivity of the compound. How well the compound wets or comes into intimate contact with the mating surfaces is also very important. If Compound A has twice the thermal conductivity of Compound B, but Compound B wets 90% of the mating surfaces while Compound A only wets 40%, Compound B with its lower thermal conductivity, but better wetting, will perform better if the bond line thickness is the same.
And that is the third compound factor affecting real-world performance; bond line thickness. How well is the compound able to squeeze out of the gap and allow as much physical contact as possible between the CPU and heatsink. If a compound spaces the heatsink away from the CPU, the performance could be worse than a compound with lower conductivity and less wetting that forms a much thinner bond line.
With regard to AS5 and Ceramique, AS5 has much higher thermal conductivity, but Ceramique is a bit better at surface wetting and forming a minimum bond line. Which combination of compound factors is most critical in your system depends on the characteristics of the interface gap noted above. Are the mating surfaces smooth or rough? Are they flat, concave or convex? How much pressure is there on the interface and is the pressure even?
If one of you were to bring your system to our lab, we could develop a compound that would work better on it than any of our retail compounds. But since that compound would be tweaked for the specific characteristics of your CPU to heatsink interface, it will probably perform much worse for some other systems where the thermal joint has different characteristics.
Our retail products have to perform well on the widest range of systems. On a scale of 1 to 100, it is much better to have a product perform in the 70 to 85 range on almost every system than that to have one that performs at the 95 range on some systems, but in the 35 range on others.
This is why you will continue to see posts where Ceramique performs better than AS5. On some systems it will. But on more systems, the AS5 will perform better. If Ceramique performs better than AS5 on your system then keep using Ceramique. Just be aware that the rankings may well change should you use a different heatsink or different CPU.
Also keep in mind that the break-in on AS5 is much longer than with Ceramique and the temperature drop can be more dramatic. I have seen systems where Ceramique was better after a week, but by six weeks, AS5 passed it and gave lower temperatures. Most of thermal compound break-in can be traced back to surface wetting and bond line thickness, the two factors where Ceramique has some advantage over AS5 right out of the gate. Since the silver particles in AS5 are much heavier than the fillers in Ceramique, it takes more time and more thermal cycling for AS5 to fully flaunt its superior thermal conductivity.
After saying all of this, I want to mention that Ceramique should never beat AS5 by the 6C noted in the first post of this thread. Since both the idle temperature and full-load temperature both dropped by at least 5C, I suspect that this new board is measuring temperatures about 4C to 5C lower than the old board. Since the rise in temperature across a thermal joint is proportional to the power, the difference between the compounds would be less at idle than it is at full load if all you were seeing was the compound change. If JudgeDredd had changed compounds without changing the motherboard, he probably would have seen no change at idle and 1C at load or possibly 1C at idle and 2C at load.
Arctic Silver, Inc.
Sourced from – http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/385314-Artic-Ceramique-6C-less-under-load?p=3677469#post3677469


Are these containers lined with Tritan?
No, the Tavva containers are made from uncoated 18/8 food grade stainless steel and are plastic-free. Since stainless steel is non-reactive, containers made from this material don’t leak and don’t have to be lined. Also, the silicone lid is plastic free and very flexible.
Is the silicone lid 100% food grade and totally without any toxic fillers?
Tavva containers are 100% plastic-free, crafted from high-quality, food-grade stainless steel topped with food-grade silicone lids. Because it does not contain plastic, our product is free of all estrogen-mimicking chemicals, such as bisphenol-A (BPA), phthalates, and bisphenol-S (BPS).
Are the lids easy to open for kids?
Yes, they’re very flexible silicone.
Can you use these to freeze food?
If you do use them in the freezer, make sure you don’t fill them up to the top, especially when you put liquids in. We all know that liquids expand when they freeze and how an aluminum can will swell up in the freezer. You don’t want that to happen to your nice stainless container, so we recommend leaving about an inch of space for expansion. Also, be careful when taking it out because skin will freeze to frozen metal and that's no fun.
How do I wash my stainless steel food containers?
With hot soapy water and detergent - or in the dishwasher! Do not use bleach, harsh chemicals, abrasive cleansers or pads. With proper care and cleaning, your stainless steel lunchboxes may be used for years and years to come.
Does stainless steel corrode or stain?
Stainless steel is a material that is used extensively in the kitchen due to its general resilience against things like heat and corrosion, along with a pretty good level of stain resistance.
Usually, the chromium within stainless steel reacts to oxygen in the air and forms a protective film, preventing problems like rust and reducing the risk of permanent marks. With gentle care and regular cleaning, stainless steel will often last for many years and resist developing rust or stains!
However, while stainless steel is highly resistant to corrosion, it's not completely impervious.
If it’s treated with harsh chemicals, like bleach, or its surface is coated with grease or dirt and not regularly cleaned, the stainless steel is more vulnerable to corrosion and wear. Regular gentle cleaning is required to preserve the appearance and integrity of its surface. In fact, stainless steel actually thrives with frequent cleaning, and, unlike some other materials, it is impossible to "wear out" stainless steel by excessive cleaning.
Cleaning Tips & Tricks for Stainless Steel
- Wash by hand or in the dishwasher with detergent will clean stainless steel safely and thoroughly. Follow with a hot water rinse.
- To remove food stuck to your container:
- Soak the container in warm soapy water and then clean with hot soapy sponge.
- For more stubborn cases, a Nylon non-abrasive pad with detergent should be adequate for dealing with most deposits.
- Another gentle but tough approach to removing deposits and stains is to use a baking soda paste. Simply mix a tablespoon of soda with a little water into a thick paste. Coat the problem area and leave for half an hour. Then rub with a damp cloth, rinse and dry.
- Please note: Water with a high mineral content tends to leave water spots, so in this case, it is recommended you wipe the surface completely dry with a clean, dry cloth.
No Bleach... and Other No-nos
- Bleach will stain and damage stainless steel, do not use cleaning sprays or solutions that contain bleach.
- Never use steel wool or steel brushes. They will scratch the surface of your stainless steel and make it more susceptible to rusting and staining.
- Abrasive cleaners will scratch the surface and should always be avoided.
- Dirty water and cleaning solutions can leave a residue that can stain and damage the surface, so don’t forget to rinse and dry.
- Long-term exposure to table salt and salt and vinegar mixes can damage stainless steel.
- In order to reduce chance of staining, do not allow the following acidic food items to remain on stainless steel surfaces for hours: ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, and salad dressing.
Are the silicone lids dishwasher safe?
The silicone lids used in our collection are dishwasher safe. They can also be hand washed. Avoid harsh chemicals like bleach.
In case of food odors, wash the lids with a paste made from baking soda and water. Simply mix a tablespoon of soda with a little water into a thick paste. Coat the problem area and leave for half an hour. Then rub with a damp cloth, rinse and dry.


UAB 3RD FLOOR
The Designform team began the project with a comprehensive program validation that led to the complete demolition and re-design of the existing undergraduate chemistry labs.
The 22,631-square-foot project includes General Chemistry, Organic Chemistry, and Biological, Analytical / Physical teaching laboratories with support space and a Computational Chemistry lab. The design team worked closely with the department’s faculty and administration to incorporate the latest teaching and research methodologies as well as new equipment into the design.
Common areas are designed to facilitate student interaction and offer views into the labs for visitors and prospective students. During construction, the mechanical system was re-designed to connect to the UAB campus chilled water system while maintaining an active system for the first and second floors.
Other systems modifications included fume hoods, acid waste, new laboratory casework, ambient lighting and audio / visual equipment.


All STAX cartridges are safe, effective, and consistently dosed cannabis products that DO NOT contain artificial flavors or cutting agents of any kind. (including vitamin E acetate). We exclusively use our proprietary and patent-pending STAK’D technology that is 3rd party tested and verified free of heavy metals, ensuring the highest quality components for maximum compatibility with all our products.
Our Live Rosin is a solventless full-spectrum concentrate derived from freshly frozen whole plant cannabis. The end result provides consumers with the experience of the full aroma and flavor offered from high quality cannabis plants.
Our Live Resin concentrates are derived from the highest quality whole plant cannabis that is meticulously harvested and immediately frozen before extraction. This ensures maximum terpene and cannabinoid retention and is unrivaled in taste, potency and effect.
Request EXSTAX at Your Local Dispensary!
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. FOR USE ONLY BY ADULTS 21 YEARS OF AGE OR OLDER. MEDICAL CANNABIS IS FOR USE BY CERTIFIED PATIENTS ONLY.
© 2022 EXSTAX LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms & Conditions


Our challenge is to reduce the use of harmful chemicals and to increase the use of better chemicals.
We recognize that chemicals are needed in the production of textiles, but our challenge is to reduce the use of harmful chemicals and to increase the use of better chemicals. This is a big challenge, but in 2018 we have taken steps in the right direction.
We only work with suppliers with approved wastewater systems, as chemicals released with waste water are a large source of chemical pollution. Nudie Jeans requires all of its suppliers, whether production is outside or within Europe, to comply with European legislation and regulations on chemicals. All Nudie Jeans suppliers must sign and follow our code of conduct including our Restricted Substance List (RSL). Our RSL is based on the European chemical legislation REACH, but with stricter limitations for many of the listed chemicals.
Nudie Jeans’ RSL is in line with the best practices within the textile industry and legislation in our production countries outside the EU. Each season, we conduct random chemical testing to check that the requirements of the RSL are upheld for our production. The Chemical Policy and RSL form our basic requirements, and we continuously communicate with our suppliers about the chemicals used, as well as the handling and storage of the chemicals. It is high important for the suppliers to provide their employees with the right personal protective equipment (PPE), and also to offer training to increase awareness and knowledge of how to use PPE correctly and why it is important.
We only work with suppliers with approved wastewater systems, as chemicals released with waste water are a large source of chemical pollution.
Water and Energy
Textile and garment manufacturing is an energy intensive industry. Nudie Jeans’ energy impact, as the seller and indirect producer, reaches all the way to the growing of the raw material throughout the chain of production through the end of life of the garment. Our ability to influence the impact differs depending on the stage of production or user phase, and we acknowledge that our business creates the largest part of its energy consumption outside of our own organization. So far, we have not yet had the possibility to collect energy or water consumption data from our full production chain. We are working with engaged suppliers that value sustainability and invest in energy and water saving technologies.
One example is the Save Blue concept developed by our main fabric supplier Bossa where around 55% of water is saved during the dyeing process. Another good example is our Indian supplier Armstrong Knitting Mill, which covers 100% of their energy with wind and solar power, and more and more suppliers in our supply chain are switching to renewable energy sources. We follow all our suppliers’ developments with interest and aspire to gather more precise data for both energy and water consumption for our production in the coming years.


Malt: Two Row, Flaked Oats, Flaked Wheat, White Wheat, Malted Oats, Dextrin Malt
Hops: Mosaic, Motueka, Simcoe, Cascade, Saaz
ABV: 7% ABV
Biotransformation! Thiolized! Big School Words! This new hazy IPA is full of big flavors and aromatics! Starting in the mash tun, we mash hopped with Cascade and Saaz hops. This technique is called mash hopping and when applied in the brewing process, helps convert thiol precursors into a form that makes it possible for fermentation to generate rich, tropical aromas. We then added in Simcoe and Motueka hops to the whirlpool, to maximize aromatics and minimize bitterness. Fermenting with Omega Yeast Cosmic Punch Ale, this strain aides in generating thiols through biotransformation, releasing tropical aromas. Biotransformation of hops is a process by which yeast change less desirable hop compounds into more desirable bold flavors and aromas. Thiols are highly impactful aroma compounds that evoke grapefruit, passion fruit, and guava. Once fermentation was rocking, we did two dry hop additions of Mosaic, Simcoe, and Motueka hops, further adding juicy, tropcial aromatics.


Why opt for minerals instead?
- You can test this at home: True, 100% mineral makeup will also sit on top of water. Grab a glass of water, tap a small amount of your makeup in and see if it starts to sink.
4. Zinc oxide and Titanium dioxide are two main components in mineral makeup. You’ve heard us mention these two before as they are also two of the most effective physical blockers for sun protection. As a third added bonus (1. sunscreen, 2. makeup coverage), zinc is an antioxidant which helps protect your skin from free radical damage, and titanium dioxide has a high light refractive property – higher than that of a diamond – which helps bolster a luminous, glowing skin tone.
In general, mineral makeup is really taking you back to the basics. With it’s history dating back to ancient times (Cleopatra didn’t have liquid eye liner, she opted for kohl instead!), advances in formulation and the refining of minerals has helped set mineral lines above many conventional brands. With the added benefits of antioxidants and sunscreen, mineral makeup can work as an extension of your skin care regimen as well.
Now we don’t want you to think all non-mineral makeup lines are the enemy and you should stay away from them – that is far from the case! Our goal is to make sure you have all the facts when you visit the makeup counter so you can make an informed decision. If you are considering mineral makeup, we do caution you check the ingredients as not all mineral makeup lines are 100% mineral based. Still not sure if your choice is 100% mineral? Ask a sample and try the water test at home.
Do you have a favorite mineral makeup line? Join the discussion on our Facebook page to tell us your experiences and favorite tips!


I recently ventured into resin casting some bases for my new High Elf army and many asked if I would document the process. So keep reading past the break and we'll dive right into it!
First off, let's talk about safety. I didn't read up and educate myself before getting started. As such I exposed myself to the fumes the resin gives off when curing.
This shit is poison.
Wait not that kind of Poison.
Please, Please, Please read the label and all of the warnings BEFORE you start with these products. Know what you are getting into and how you could be affecting the people in your house.
Work in a well ventilated space
Wear a Respirator at a minimum
Wear rubber gloves at a minimum
After doing some research some of these guys wear full suits when casting. There are all types of resin though and some are far nastier than the type of stuff you would be using.
One warning I read from a forum that scared the bajesus out of me which I confirmed via some government documentation I found online.
the dangerous compound in polyurethane resin is called isocyanate. it is colorless odorless and extremely hazardous. it can be absorbed by breathing it in and also through contact with the skin.
It will not kill you and the danger is not an acute one. it is a cumulative effect. When it is absorbed it gets into your blood and stays their - it NEVER goes away. continued exposure increases the amount in your system. it has no ill effect until it reaches a critical mass in your system ( different for everyone. When you notice its effects its too late - nothing can be done. The effects usually manifest as symptoms similar to pneumonia I believe. This is known as 'sensitivity' and when it manifests it results in an intolerance to polyurethane plastics. You cannot be in their vicinity without manifesting symptoms to which their is no remedy. There is a lot of polyurethane & polyurethane blends in our lives. Sensitivity makes life extremely difficult.
You can not be too careful. You have been warned.
There is a reason the guys who make and sell resin cast bases charge what they do. And this is it. They are handling toxic product. The process isn't even remotely hard but it is dangerous. As such, once this project is completed I won't be doing any more resin casting. It's just not worth the risk and other people live in my gaming space - adversely affecting them in any way would just about kill me.
Sorry all - had to be done. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
Step 1 - Create the originals
I created bases using - MDF bases, cork, stamped sculpey, green stuff, and sand. I did superglue my sand to the base (I always do). This may be important though because I noticed on the de-molding that the mold took a few pieces of the vine and sand anyway. White glue may not be enough to keep your materials on your bases. Just means more work cleaning out the mold. I made 10 infantry bases and 6 Cav bases to supply my army.
Step 2 - Prepare the originals for molding
You will want to ensure you are working on a level surface. I first arranged the bases in a manner that looked appropriate. You want them close together with smallish gaps in between to reduce mold material waste. Once I was happy with the arrangement I put a little superglue on each of the corners of the underside of the base. I glued them to a clean piece of Sheet Styrene I got at my local train store. You can also find this stuff online. Popular brand names are Plastruct / Evergreen. Basically any smooth, flat surface would work that you don't care too much about. (*Probably a bad idea to do this on the dining room table bro!!!)
I then created a lego frame (don't tell my kid I used his legos plz) to create a retaining wall for the molding material. I did not superglue the lego frame to the styrene. Once it was located in the proper position I secured it in place with blue tac and then used the hot glue gun to run a bead of glue around the outside perimeter where it meets the styrene. I did not want to ruin the legos (and I did not!!).
Step 3 - Make the Mold
The next step is to mix the molding material and pour it in. This is a two-part molding material. I used what I had on hand (from a starter kit) which is a product from Smooth-On. They have a ton of online resources and youtube videos as well. We used something called OOMO also for casting the minions. I really like this stuff as you don't need to mess with release agents at any stage of the process.
Mix it up and pour it in. I did a thin coat and used some small glue applicators I have on hand to push it into all the recesses and then poured the rest. You want to ensure you are a good bit over your highest point. I had used the lego to help me figure out how high I had to pour. I then let it cure a good 12 hours. (My work surface is not level - something I didn't realize til after the cast).
Step 4 - De-molding
After letting it cure for 12 hours I came down to de-mold. I first removed the lego frame. Then I slowly peeled back 1 corner of the mold. Ya have to kind of finagle it and it really is only something you can feel but it is really obvious. Take your time. Go slow. Once you have all the originals out I went to work trimming the edges of the mold and cleaning out any sand / vines the mold "swallowed".
Step 5 - Casting
Now with the mold created I set about to create my first bases. Again using what came in my starter kit I followed the directions on the box and mixed up the 2 part resin material.
After you mix up the resin, slowly pour it into the mold. I did my best to try and fill each base to create level bottoms but it was nigh impossible. It didn't help that my mold was not level since my work surface is not level! LOL! After pouring you need something to help you remove any air bubbles from each individual pocket. The more detail the more little hiding spots for bubbles. I used these which are quite honestly one of my new favorite hobby tools.
Let the resin cure. It takes about 10-15 minutes. Looks pretty cool while it is happening too!
Step 6 - Remove the casts
The next step is simply to remove the cast pieces from the molds. They often need trimmed and most likely the bottoms will need sanded to get them level. Please note - sanding / drilling / cutting resin creates resin dust which is as harmful to your health as is inhaling the fumes the resin creates while curing. Please take adequate precautions!!! Wear a mask. I plan to wet-sand my bases underwater to minimize dust. I will be wearing rubber gloves, long sleeves and a respirator.
Step 7 - Profit
I was very happy with the level of detail captured. You can see the sand grains and the HE jewel I added to the base is an exact replica of that part.
In 3 hours time I was able to cast my mold 8 times creating 80 infantry bases and 8 cav bases!!!
Good luck to you if you choose to head down this path. Please note all the safety precautions. It's just not worth doing any harm to yourself.


GPCA announces the establishment of a Memorandum of Understanding with the Society of Plastics Engineers
Kuwait, June 12, 2012: The Gulf Petrochemicals and Chemical Association (GPCA) has signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the Society of Plastics Engineers (SPE) to launch an industry and community education campaign to improve understanding of the plastics sector.
The MoU was signed in Dubai by Dr. Abdulwahab Al-Sadoun, Secretary General of the GPCA, and SPE President Jim Griffing.
The cooperation is aimed at highlighting the socio-economic benefits of the plastics industry and achieving a wider understanding of the plastics industry more generally.
“The GPCA and SPE believe in the importance of plastics and their positive contribution to society, which includes job creation and skills development across the Arabian Gulf Region,” said Dr. Abdulwahab Al-Sadoun. “The region’s most important export is oil and gas, and by bolstering the plastics industry through training and knowledge transfer, we will maximize the value of this crucial export.”
Various initiatives will see the two organizations reach out to local communities to highlight the opportunities the plastics industry offers, as well as the Gulf’s emergence as a global hub for the plastics sector. With the Middle East industry seeing 8.5 per cent annual growth, conditions are right for the local plastics industry to experience further rapid development, Dr. Al-Sadoun said.
The educational campaign will also challenge common misperceptions of plastics, in particular those relating to its environmental impact.
“Many plastics are completely recyclable with a much lower carbon footprint than other products widely considered more sustainable. Yet low awareness of the environmental performance of plastics is proving a barrier to acceptance,” said Dr. Al-Sadoun.
Utilizing the GPCA’s extensive Middle Eastern network, the two organizations will share information and best practices with plastics companies to help develop the region as a knowledge centre. SPE will also work with the GPCA to stage technical conferences and workshops in support of local plastics convertors and processors.
“The Gulf region has a strong and growing plastics industry. As the largest network in the Plastics world, SPE is excited to be working with GPCA to provide world class plastics awareness, education and conferencing support. We are convinced that the broadening of SPE's network with and for GPCA's plastics companies, will not only enhance further growth in the GULF region, but will be to the benefit of our complete industry. For this important milestone, our President Mr Jim Griffing came over to Dubai to sign and ratify this co-operation.” said Wim De Vos, Chief Executive Officer of the SPE.


In this update, I have set out to remove most of the lighter surface rust with my angle grinder fitted with a surface conditioning disc. These open-weave nylon abrasive discs make quick work or removing light rust and surface imperfections without damaging the parent metal. Fortunately, the vast majority of the surface rust was easily removed in this way, but it also revealed a few concerns where the heavier rust deposits were.
Close inspection after cleaning up the visible rust revealed an area of tiny pits (and a few slightly larger ones) that appeared to have cleaned up. However, experience has taught me that surface conditioning discs do not clean rust from pits very well and in all likelihood, there was plenty of microscopic rust (a.k.a. micro-rust) still living at the bottom of these tiny pits. The problem is if you can’t see the rust, how do you eliminate it?To many, the quick and easy answer is to haul out the sand blasting rig and assault the panel with high-velocity abrasive to remove this miniscule rust residue at the expense of all of the good metal around the areas. Unfortunately, this is analogous to driving finishing nails with a sledge hammer. It’s kinda the right idea, but the execution is never what you really had in mind. However, the most effective solution to address this problem is actually simpler and cheaper than you might think. Stay with me now……
As I have outlined many times in previous blog entries, I use a phosphoric acid Prep & Etch solution to treat and preserve all of the bare metal that is exposed while I work. This serves many useful purposes, not the least of which is keeping flash rust in check and arresting the progression of existing rust by converting it to black ferric phosphate (FePO4) until it can be properly dealt with. The problem here is that once the exposed surface of the rust is converted, the conversion reaction stops and the underlying rust, while essentially arrested and sealed, is still there.But hold on a minute and let’s think about this. If we have taken our time to prepare a nice, clean, bare steel panel by removing all traces of original paint, brushing the visible rust off the surface with a surface conditioning abrasive, sanding the surfaces smooth, and finally applying a light coat of phosphoric acid prep to preserve the panel, what more can be done to positively identify micro-rust and how do we eliminate it effectively without tearing up a perfectly viable panel?
The answer is almost ridiculously simple. Remember how the phosphoric acid converts the rust it contacts into a black inert byproduct (ferric phosphate)? Well why not use this very reactive characteristic as a chemical “indicator” of every spot on the clean panel that retains rust? In other words, the black byproduct has now become a very effective and relatively high-contrast “developer” that will highlight every spot where micro-rust remains. So, by using a phosphoric acid prep solution on your clean steel panel, you will have created a virtual “road map” of sorts that clearly shows you all of the areas that will require addition cleaning methods to remove the remaining rust.Now that the “secret” of exposing the remaining micro-rust areas has been identified, the process of removal can begin. This is where the process becomes a bit of a throwback to the popular sand blasting method but on a much smaller scale. Since blasting is so effective at removing rust and other surface coatings, I have come to love a product from Zendex called the Speed Blaster along with their add-on accessory the Hot Spot abrasive recovery fixture. Essentially, this combination creates a small, virtually dust-free miniature sand blasting apparatus that will blast small, dime-sized circles of metal with high precision and effectiveness and it only requires a few minutes to master. By using this tool to blast each and every black “freckle” indicated by the phosphoric acid solution, I can very methodically remove even the tiniest traces of rust from pits that are almost invisible to the naked eye. And the beautiful part is the method of checking progress is to simply reapply the phosphoric acid solution to the freshly blasted area and look to see if the black spots reappear. If any black traces remain, I simply fire the Speed Blaster back up and repeat the process until all traces of micro-rust have been eliminated.
Once the job is complete, I treat the entire panel one final time with a phosphoric acid wash applied by hand, allowed to sit for a few minutes to etch the metal surface evenly, and then wipe off the residue with clean cloths and quickly hit the entire surface with compressed air to drive off the moisture as quickly as possible. At this point, the panel is preserved and can be worked extensively in preparation for dent removal, fabrication work, metal finishing, and structural and cosmetic filler work. Yep, that’s where we are heading next!
|Using a surface conditioning disc on my angle grinder, I was able to remove most of the surface rust spots that were exposed once the quarter panel was completely stripped to bare metal.|
|Looking closely, you will see the phosphoric acid has turned the micro-rust black and it shows up quite easily against the shiny bare metal.|
|Now that the micro-rust can be easily seen, I can confidently remove it. a bonus is that the phosphoric acid will continue to perform its "indicator" role for as long as necessary until I am able to remove ALL of the hidden rust.|
|A quick run over the entire panel with an 80 grit disc in the DA sander polishes up the metal surface nicely and adds contrast to the areas that we have treated with phosphoric.|
|Here is a close-up of the spots blasted with the Speed Blaster tool.|
|Here is a shot of the quarter after I have blasted all of the spots that showed the black ferric phosphate coating left on the surface of the hidden rust by the phosphoric acid.|
|A final treatment with phosphoric acid Prep & Etch and the panel was ready for formal bodywork without the worry of having missed any hidden rust.|


CO – Be Alarmed has published a booklet giving advice on how to stay safe from carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning. The information about CO includes, instruction on how to fit an alarm and spot the signs as well as instructions on what to do in an emergency. Jude Sellmeyer, a nurse who suffered from CO poisoning, also features in the guide and discusses her experience.
CO is a deadly gas that cannot be seen, smelt or tasted. It can be produced by faulty fuel burning appliances and can only be detected by a CO alarm. Nausea, headaches and dizziness are just some of the symptoms caused by CO. High doses of the gas can cause permanent brain damage and even death.
Lawrence Slade, spokesman for CO – Be Alarmed, said:
“Many people don’t know just how dangerous it is and how hard it is to detect. This is why CO – Be Alarmed work hard to educate and raise awareness. This booklet is just the latest example. We want people to pass this information on to their friends, family and co-workers and spread the word about CO. Carbon monoxide really is the silent killer.”
Follow the campaign on twitter @COBeAlarmed


PROUDLY SERVING ALL PRINTERS & PUBLISHERS!
Conveniently located in Central Florida.
Started in 1995, 3d Bindery has become a successful trade bindery, producing everything from soft cover books, to magazines, catalogs, yearbooks and other publications.
As technology and demands have changed, so has 3d Bindery’s outlook on the binding industry. With customers always looking for quicker turnaround and a better quality product, 3d Bindery relies on Muller Martini’s Pantera PUR Perfect Binder to meet those demands.
Perfect binding is available in quantities from a single book to hundreds of thousands. We utilize both PUR adhesive and standard EVA glue.
Element bindery options include Plastic Coil, Twin Loop Wire, GBC Comb and Velobind.
phone: 407.831.2463 (BIND)
toll free: 877.484.7333
Perfect binding utilizes two types of glue: Polyurethane Reactive (PUR) and Ethylene Vinyl Acetate (EVA). Both are very successful forms of adhesive in perfect binding. The difference in the two is that PUR is the most durable available, offering flexibility for all types of applications including catalogues, manuals, etc.
One of the main concerns with conventional EVA binding is it’s stability in extreme temperatures. PUR adhesive sets quickly when it cools from the melt form to a solid, and at that point has reasonable strength. However, the adhesive will continue to develop strength due to a chemical reaction that occurs between the polyurethane and environmental moisture. Once cure is complete (generally in 18-24 hours), the bond is far superior to ordinary hot melts - by 2.5 times the strength. Due to the cross-linking provided by the moisture reaction, PUR hot melts are highly resistant to re-melting in extreme summer months and cold cracking in harsh winter months.
PUR also uses a smaller amount of glue, and can bind materials that may not have been previously attempted. PUR does not require knocking-out spine ink, coatings and varnishes. Another major advantage of PUR glue is its flexibility once it has fully cured. It is able to withstand heavy usage in demanding conditions.
Some of the benefits of EVA include a faster curing time, ease of operation, cleanup processes are easy when compared to PUR, and is more effective on thread sewn books, as the glue allows greater penetration into the folded sections.
Which is best? - probably needs to be replaced with the question - Which is most suitable? The decision to use one over the other is very much job specific and would involve numerous considerations – substrate used, thickness of book, or intended use of product.
For those that have not had the experience of seeing PUR binding in action,
please contact us for demonstration!
Please take a moment to review our attached information.
Forms must be downloaded to computer first to submit.
2702 Pemberton Dr, Apopka, Florida 32703, United States
07:00 am – 04:00 pm


Just over a month ago, we announced our intent to acquire Lithionics Battery, a premier lithium-ion battery solutions provider, to accelerate our innovation in diverse battery solutions and advance our overall electrical ecosystem, creating more opportunities for our RV and marine products to capitalize on consumer preferences for fully immersive, outdoor experiences.
I am excited to share that Winnebago Industries has finalized our acquisition of Lithionics Battery, and the transaction is now closed.
Following years of close partnership, we are pleased to welcome the talented Lithionics team to the Winnebago Industries family. We look forward to working together to expand the use of Lithionics’ efficient energy solutions within our own portfolio, as well as supporting Lithionics in growing relationships with its existing customers and exploring new market applications for its premier battery solutions.
Please join me in officially welcoming Lithionics to our portfolio of industry-leading brands and congratulations to all our team members who worked to make this transaction successful.


RUST BASE is a high-performance rust encapsulation coating that protects metal surfaces from corrosion. RUST BASE seals iron, steel, and most other metals and can be applied directly over rust and firmly bonded paint. RUST BASE also provides superior protection for concrete, wood and fiberglass. RUST BASE is abrasion, chip, chemical and UV resistant. Use RUST BASE as a primer for other Coatable products or as a single coating system.
RUST BASE does not require pre-treatments like other coating, and permanently stops corrosion by encapsulating a metal surface. Rust Base hardens like a rock to take on incredible abuse. Rust Base is the last corrosion coating you will ever use.
- True surface tolerant coating, with no need for pre-treatments.
- Apply directly over non treated rust.
- Single component formulation.
- Fast cure, atmospheric humidity accelerates curing.
- High solids content, made with Aluminum.
- Incredible adhesion to minimally prepared surfaces.
- Excellent wetting characteristics to penetrate and encapsulate all surfaces.
- Permanent non-porous barrier, provides long term corrosion protection.
- Mold & mildew resistant.
- Superior abrasion & chemical resistance.
- Withstands temperatures up to 325F.
- Easy to apply, brush roll or spray.
- Primer, mid-coat, top-coat all in one.
- Excellent flow and self-leveling.
Note: The secret to RUST BASE performance is due to the high aluminum content which provides game changing corrosion protection, but limits RUST BASE to a single metallic silver color. For this reason, STOP HEAT & NOVA SHINE are available as topcoats if color or additional color is required.
Popular Application Areas:
|chassis – truck bed – trunks – axles – floor pans – fenders – engine - floor pans – wheel wells
|Engine Rooms – Hulls – masts – bilges – heat exchangers – metal decks – chain lockers – pumps fuel tanks – boat trailers
|I beams – structural steel – pipes – sealing concrete – air conditioners – fiberglass – rebar – gas & fuel tanks – exterior coating for all rusted metal
|Farm & Household
|hand rails – support beams – lawn equipment – farm equipment – garage floors – pipe work – appliances – lead based paint encapsulation
Rust Base Spread Rate:
- A single quart will cover 25 ft2 with 2 coats
- A single 1 gallon will cover 100 ft2 with 2 coats
- A single 5 gallon will cover 500 ft2 with 2 coats
How fast does RUST BASE cure?
While micro climate and direct sunlight play a part in the final curing times, Refer to chart below for an estimate.
|90 F / 32 C
|70 F / 21 C
|50F / 10 C
SURFACE PREPARATION:All surfaces must be completely dry and free of loose rust, loose paint, visible moisture, dirt, mildew, oil, wax, chlorides, and any other contaminants that may affect adhesion or performance prior to applying RUST BASE. Remove loose rust, paint and mil scale by hammering, scraping, sanding or wire brushing. Surfaces with firmly bonded paint should be roughed up with 100-150 grit sandpaper to ensure there is no shine left. Please note: If any existing paint or coating is not firmly bonded, the existing paint or coating may fail and the surface will require the re application of RUST BASE. While RUST BASE Coatings DO NOT contain lead, other oil based paints may contain lead. WARNING If you sand, scrape or abrade old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC, & CAN CAUSE BRAIN DAMAGE. PREGNANT WOMEN & CHILDREN SHOULD AVOID LEAD DUST EXPOSURE. To minimize lead exposure, wear a NIOSH- approved respirator. To control lead dust, clean up using a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. For any questions, contact the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS: Do not shake the container. Stir thoroughly, until coating is a silver color. Do not create a vortex when mixing. Use outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Ideal application temperature is between 50F (10C) and 90F (32C) humidity below 90% to ensure proper drying. Do not apply to surfaces that exceed 150F (65C). RUST BASE may be applied by brush, roller, or spray equipment. Test a small area for proper adhesion. RUST BASE works best when pressed firmly against a substrate. Apply RUST BASE evenly without build up. A minimum of 2 coats of RUST BASE must be applied to achieve a minimum dft (dry film thickness) of 6 mils. A minimum dft of 12 mils is recommended for heavy industrial or marine use. Typical areas where stripe coats must be applied include welds, corners, edges and heavily pitted areas. Average drying time is between 2 to 6 hours. RUST BASE cures faster on humid days and slower on a dry days. Note: The above drying times are only estimates, actual drying times can vary significantly based on relative humidity, dry film thickness, wind, direct sunlight, temperature, and other factors. Previous coats of RUST BASE should be dry to the touch with no transfer of coating to a gloved finger before applying additional coats of RUST BASE or another topcoat. For optimum inter-coat adhesion apply the next coat as soon as the previous coat is touch to dry. If more than 12 hours have passed, wait at least 24 hours then rough up the surface with 150 grit before applying additional coats. RUST BASE is a metallic silver in color and does not require a topcoat. If a color other than metallic silver is desired, Coatable offers a variety of top coats. If using another brand top coat, it is recommended to first check for compatibility and follow the manufacturers recommendations. A small surface area should be tested for adhesion and compatibility. Top coats must be applied within 12 hours of the final coat of RUST BASE. Indefinite submersion requires an epoxy topcoat. Remember to limit the time the container is left open. Only pour what you need and then close the container to minimize air entry and avoid skinning. A thin plastic bag may be placed between the lid and the container. For more detailed instructions, please refer to the Technical Data Sheet and Application Instructions which are available online at www.coatable.com. Cure time varies based on relative humidity and temperature of the surface; approximately 80% in 4 hours; fully cured in 72 hours.
CLEAN UP: Remove any uncured coating by wiping a surface with solvent. Follow solvent manufacturers directions. Freshly cured product is removed with sandpaper or wire brush. RUST BASE is a permanent coating and once fully cured cannot be removed without abrasive action. Gloves and safety glasses are always required during set up, application, and clean up. If spraying, keep solvent ready to clean equipment before any brake and conclusion of job. Do not leave RUST BASE in the hose or sprayer. DO NOT THIN OR ADD ANY OTHER PRODUCT TO RUST BASE.
SPREAD RATE: On non-textured flat surfaces, each coat of RUST BASE covers approximately 200 sq. ft. per gallon (18.5 sq. mtr/gallon) at 8 mils wet / 4 mils dry (200 micron wet / 100 micron dry). Clean white flat metal requires 1 coat (4 mils DFT), rusted metal requires 2 coats (8 mils DFT), heavy industrial and marine requires 3 coats (12 mils DFT).
SEE SDS FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY.
Questions and Answers
Why Does RUST BASE only come in a single silver metallic silver color?
The same non leafing aluminum metallics that give RUST BASE unparalleled corrosion protection limits it to a single metallic silver color.
Does RUST BASE require a primer or topcoat?
No, RUST BASE is a complete coating system in a single product. RUST BASE is self-priming and can be used as the primer, intermediate and topcoat. You do have the option of top-coating RUST BASE with STOP HEAT to block solar heat, or NOVA SHINE for a specific color.
How do I calculate spread rate for RUST BASE?
On non-textured flat surfaces, each coat of RUST BASE covers approximately 200 sq. ft. per gallon (18.5 sq. mtr/gallon) at 8 mils wet / 4 mils dry (200 micron wet / 100 micron dry). Clean white flat metal requires 1 coat (4 mils DFT), rusted metal requires 2 coats (8 mils DFT), heavy industrial and marine requires 3 coats (12 mils DFT), or two coats of RUST BASE and a top-coat of STOP HEAT or NOVA SHINE (12+ mils DFT).
Does RUST BASE require a pretreatment before applying directly to rusted surfaces?
No unlike other direct to rust coatings, RUST BASE does not require a pre-treatment. The only requirement is that the surface be clean from dirt, oil and debris and be applied on a dry surface.
Can I apply multiple coats in a single day to save time?
Yes, that is one the main advantages of using RUST BASE. Accelerated curing in the presence of atmospheric humidity. The higher the humidity the faster the curing. Anything above 40% humidity and you can do three coats in a single day if you start in the morning time.
What if I am interrupted, and cannot apply all the coats in a single day?
If you have full sunlight and high humidity above (80%), then you must sand the surface of RUST BASE after 12 hours of curing before you can applying another coat of RUST BASE.
If you have partial shade/sun with humidity up to 75%, then you have up to 24 hours to topcoat another coat of RUST BASE before requiring a light sanding of the surface.
If you are apply STOP HEAT or NOVA SHINE, there is no time limit. Just make sure the surface is clean when top coating.
How fast does RUST BASE cure?
While micro climate and direct sunlight play a part in the final curing times, Refer to chart below for an estimate.
Temperature (F) 90 F / 32 C 70 F / 21 C 50F / 10 C Relative Humidity 90% 1 hr 1.5 hr 2-3 hr 80% 1 hr 1.5 hr 2-3 hr 60% 1.5 hr 2 hr 3-4 hr 40% 1-2 hr 2-4 hr 6-8 hr 30% 2-3 hr 3-6 hr 10-14 hr 20% 6 hr 8-10 hr 12-16 hr 10% 12 hr 12-18 hr 18-24 hr
What kind of sprayer can you use to apply RUST BASE? Can it be applied by brush and roller?
Solvent Grade Brush, Roller (1/4 nap roller), Airless or Conventional sprayer.
If I am applying Stop Heat over RUST BASE, are there any over coat window time constraints?
No you can paint as soon as it touch dry/tack free or up to 30 days later. The surface just needs to be clean and dry.
What is the maximum operating temperature of RUST BASE?
Can RUST BASE take abrasion resistance?
Yes, RUST BASE is designed to take on incredible abrasion resistance like anchor chains dragging across a deck, or a tipper truck hauling gravel and rocks.
Can you apply RUST BASE to clean white metal?
Yes, on clean white metal, apply RUST BASE at 4 mils DFT (Dry Film Thickness) @ 200 ft2 per gallon
Can RUST BASE be applied over existing paint?
Yes, however make sure the paint is firmly bonded paint. Use a wire brush to remove any lose flaking paint. The best is a combination of paint and rust, because RUST BASE will create an anchor profile to the existing rust and securing itself the rusted surface.
Can RUST BASE be applied to concrete?
Yes, RUST BASE is an excellent sealer for aging concrete. RUST BASE bridges hairline cracks and hardens to over 6,000 psi in one month, and over 8,000 psi in two months of curing. Do not apply RUST BASE on new concrete until it has cured for over one month.
Does RUST BASE require thinning with lacquer thinner?
Do not thin with lacquer thinner. We do not recommend thinning RUST BASE, but if you must thin use Xylene or any aromatic solvent.
Can RUST BASE be applied in cold weather?
Yes, it will take longer to dry. Do not topcoat until the coating film is firm and hard. This may take up to 36 hours in climates like Denver Colorado in the spring time.
What if rains, after applying RUST BASE?
If the temperature is low, a light rain will not affect RUST BASE.
If temperature is high, and it rains within 4-5 hours after you have finished applying RUST BASE or before the coating film is dry, it may wash off the RUST BASE and compromise the performance.
What type of chemicals can RUST BASE resist?
Below is the list of chemicals and solvents based upon 8 months of immersion at room temperature.
Distilled Water: No Failure Gasoline No Failure Diesel No Failure 10% Sulfuric Acid: No Failure 10% Acetic Acid: Small Blisters After 10 Days 10% Fannie Acid: Small Blisters After 8 Days 25% Lactic Acid: No Failure 10% Citric Acid: No Failure Tannic Acid: No Failure Linseed-Oil Fatty Acid: No Failure 20% Soda Solution: No Failure 10% Salt Solution: No Failure 30% Sugar Solution: No Failure 10% Caustic Potash: No Failure 10% Ammonia: Small Blisters After 20 Days 3% Free Chlorine Solution: No Failure 10% Hydrogen Peroxide: No Failure: No Failure Premium Grade Gasoline: No Failure Methylene Chloride: Destroyed After 1 Day Ethyl Acetate: No Failure Acetone: Softens After 10 Days
Can RUST BASE be applied over fresh organic zinc rich primers?
No, RUST BASE will react and bubble with fresh coat of zinc rich primers. If the zinc is older than 6 months, do a small patch test to ensure there is no reaction. If the zinc rich primer is top coated, with another non zinc coating, then you can topcoat over the topcoat without any issues.
What happens if you overcoat RUST BASE with itself too soon?
You may get solvent entrapment/solvent pop. This happens when the solvent is trying to evaporate and gets trapped in the coating film forming very small bubbles. These are not pin holes and will not affect the performance of the coating but may cause an aesthetic issue. To solve, apply a light sand over the surface and re apply a thin coat over affected areas. Ref to overcoat chart to allow for enough time for curing based on humidity and ambient temperature.
How do you prevent the lid and the can from sealing shut once you open the can to pour out RUST BASE, and then want to close the lid?
Apply a piece of plastic between the lid and can to ensure you can easily open the can again. Firmly close the lid to ensure no air gets into the can.
Is RUST BASE flammable? What is the VOC content?
Yes, RUST BASE is flammable. (See Technical Data Sheet and SDS) RUST BASE has 380 grams per liter for the regular version, and below 95 grams per liter for the low VOC version.
How is RUST BASE different from other direct to rust coatings?
RUST BASE uses low molecular weight solvents that penetrate to the pores of the metal. It has low surface tension for deep penetration and encapsulation of the metal surface, thus significantly slowing the electro chemical reaction by robbing the metal surface of oxygen. Non leafing aluminum metallics provide both barrier and galvanic protection, for long term corrosion protection.
Can RUST BASE be indefinitely submerged?
No, unless you topcoat with an approved submergible topcoat. Ask us for details on what type of coating to use if you will be indefinitely submerging RUST BASE. Splash zone is completely fine.
What if I get RUST BASE on my skin?
Do not use water, wipe off with solvent (xylene or paint thinner), then wash with soap and water.
What type of personnel protection should I use when applying RUST BASE?
Use appropriate PPE including NIOSH approved respirator, safety glasses and gloves when applying RUST BASE.
How long should I keep indoor area ventilated after applying RUST BASE?
Up to 7 days
How many sets of brushes or rollers do I need for my application?
Due to the rapid curing and hardening you will not be able to clean brushes or rollers for multiple uses/coats. Therefore you will need a separate solvent grade brush/roller for each RUST BASE coat. If you are doing three coats you will need three separate brushes or rollers.