CPR Fund Foster Handbook
A young female Pit Bull was found shivering on the side of the expressway. A nice tow truck driver saw her dragging herself down the shoulder and stopped to help. He found an emaciated, scared, badly injured dog staring pleadingly into his eyes. He scooped her up and took her home. Unfortunately, it was late Friday night and there was no one to call for help. In the morning, the nice man started the search for someone to help this poor dog he had named Lucy. Her hind leg looked as if it had been caught in an animal trap. Most of the skin was missing and she was cut to the bone with a terrible infection already set in. After hours spent on the phone begging rescues, humane societies, and veterinarians to help Lucy, without any offers of assistance, the driver had almost given up. He tried the last number on his list- the CPR Fund. Upon hearing Lucy’s story, a volunteer was on the way to pick Lucy up. Upon arriving, the volunteer was greeted by the sweetest little dog she had ever met. Although Lucy was 15 pounds underweight and walking on only three legs, she managed to bounce over to her new foster mom and give her a big kiss. Lucy was taken to the vet, who predicted Lucy’s leg would have to be amputated. The damage and infection were so severe, it was doubtful the leg could be saved. But the severity of the infection and Lucy’s malnutrition made it impossible to perform the surgery right away. Lucy had to get stronger first. She went home with her new foster mom to wait. That was the best thing that could have happened to Lucy! Although she required daily wound care and lots of groceries, Lucy was a pleasure to be around. Always happy no matter how bad her physical condition was, she greeted everyone- humans, dogs, cats- with a big kiss and wagging tail. After a month of daily wound care and three square meals a day, Lucy went back to the vet. She had gained 18 pounds and her leg was healing beautifully. The vet could not believe the improvement in Lucy’s condition. It was decided the leg would not have to be amputated after all! Lucy had cheated fate again. After a few more months of TLC, Lucy was adopted by a loving family who spoil her rotten. This dog didn’t stand a chance as a stray and would surely have been euthanized if taken to an animal control facility. Without a foster home, Lucy would not be here and her family would not have the dog they adore.
Thank you for choosing to become a CPR Fund foster parent. With your help, we hope to decrease the number of adoptable dogs euthanized in northwest Indiana and Chicagoland shelters. Fostering is a very rewarding experience but it is also hard work. This manual is meant to outline what you, as a foster parent, can expect from the CPR Fund and what we in turn expect from you.
The CPR Fund foster program was initiated in 2003 by a group of EMT’s and Paramedics who recognized the need for vast improvements in the way northwest Indiana deals with its unwanted pet population. With the cooperation of local animal control agencies, humane societies, and veterinarians, the CPR Fund started rescuing dogs scheduled for euthanasia, placing them in foster care, providing all necessary vet care, and finding them a permanent, loving home. Over the years, some of the faces have changed but the mission remains the same- ending the needless euthanasia of adoptable dogs through education and example. It would seem that the easiest way to list your responsibilities as a foster parent is to run through a typical fostering experience as an example. Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a typical fostering experience. Each dog is different. Each foster family is different. But these differences are what make the program so successful. Outlined below are some general guidelines to help you through the fostering experience. Please use your judgment, ask questions, and have fun!
The CPR Fund is a very laid back, open-minded group that encourages its volunteers to exercise their own judgement in many situations. However,, in order for the foster program to run smoothly, we have set forth some guidelines regarding the roles and responsibilities of both the organization and the foster family. These are by no means steadfast rules, as each animal’s needs (as well as each family’s abilities) will dictate the course taken for each dog. This manual is meant to be used as a reference to answer some common questions encountered during rescue work.
Because rescuing is a dynamic endeavor, these policies will be amended as needed. Suggestions are always welcome. Although the CPR Fund has a Board of Directors in place, it is very rare that any issue is put to a vote. This is a cooperative effort and every volunteer’s ideas and opinions are valued. Please feel free to share your thoughts freely, knowing they will be respected. Finally, please be aware that the majority of the communication within CPR Fund is done via email. PLEASE check your email regularly as that is where you will find any rescue-related news, requests for more information on your foster and adoption applications.
Choosing Your Foster
The CPR Fund encourages you to take part in choosing your own foster. When you signed up, you provided us with ages, sizes, and numbers of dogs you are willing to accept. Our volunteers will contact you when a dog fitting your specifications needs rescue. We do our best to gather as much information about the dog’s size, health status, and temperament as possible prior to contacting you. We also use the ASPCA’s SAFER assessment when possible. There is more information about this assessment in Appendix V of this handbook. Please be aware that some information comes second-hand from an animal control officer or shelter worker and may not be completely accurate. What one person considers a “medium-sized” dog may be a large dog to you. A “puppy” may be 6 months old. When possible, we encourage you to visit the shelter yourself, or with an experienced volunteer if you are new to rescue, and meet the dog prior to accepting him or her. However, we occasionally work with shelters several hours away, making it impossible to do so. The decision is yours. Once you have agreed to take a dog, he is your responsibility. If, when the dog arrives, you determine he is not what you had in mind, there may not be another foster home available to take him. He will remain your responsibility until other arrangements can be made. This could take a day, a week, or a month. If you have very specific limitations on what you are willing to foster please let us know and you will only be asked to take dogs you can meet prior to acceptance.
Also, please be aware that some dogs are adopted more quickly than others. An eight-week old Golden Retriever puppy will most likely be adopted within a week of arriving at your home. A four-year-old Pit Bull might hang around for MANY, MANY months. This is something to consider when choosing a foster dog. Again, once you have accepted the dog he is your responsibility until another foster home opens up or he is adopted, regardless of how long it takes.
Finally, please understand that the majority of our rescues come from places where they are not being properly cared for. They are often sick, scared, malnourished and in generally poor condition. Part of being a foster parent is a willingness to deal with the complications that go along with this general state of neglect. They may have worms. They may have an upper respiratory infection. This means they will have a runny nose and cough. Many will be scared to death of you. You may have to administer medication, work on socialization and teach these throwaway dogs what love is all about. While this may seem like a daunting task, it’s not as tough as one might think. Most of it is second nature for animal lovers and the change seen in these dogs after just a few days of proper care is amazing. And, as always, if you need help just ask!
Bringing Your Foster Home
Please keep in mind that (in most cases) we have no idea what may have happened to your foster dog prior to rescue. We do know he has been stuck in doggie jail for who knows how long. We know he looks at you as a stranger who may or may not hurt him. And we know he is terrified. Guaranteed.
You should expect that your new dog will need some time to adjust to his new family. His entire existence has just changed. He does not know that this is his new home. Suddenly he has to deal with a new schedule, a new home environment, a new communication style, new people, new animals if you already have pets . . . The list goes on and on. During this adjustment period your foster dog may exhibit behavior that he normally would not. He may be on his best behavior for the first few days and then start to show some negative behaviors. He may show negative behaviors immediately. He may not show them at all. Behaviors commonly seen in a stressed dog include having house-training accidents, making serious efforts to escape (including bolting out the door), jumping fences, digging under fences, attempting to avoid interactions with his new owners and excessive barking are common. They may also have decreased appetite or an upset stomach. As your dog gets more and more comfortable in his new home you should see these behaviors less and less. Just remember that dogs are individuals so be prepared for anything.
It can be a long process but there are a few things you can do to make the transition easier.
During the first two or three days try not to be too demanding of him. Avoid excessive stimulation in any form- noise, movement, even talking to or petting your new dog may be overwhelming at first. Give him this time to unwind.
Develop a daily routine. Feed and let him out in the yard at the same time every day. If you are leash walking, try to walk him at a specific hour. You can also regiment what time he wakes up and what him he is put to bed. By establishing a pattern your dog will know what to expect and that will decrease his anxiety.
If you are having a large group of people, very small children or anyone who is afraid of dogs come to your house, keep your foster in his crate so he doesn’t become overwhelmed. He still considers you to be a stranger. Exposing him to large, noisy groups or small, unpredictable children will increase his anxiety and may trigger some undesirable behaviors.
Use the crate. It is the policy of the CPR Fund that ALL dogs are crate-trained. There are several benefits to both you and your foster. First, you can leave home without worrying about the dog destroying your furniture or other belongings or getting into something that may harm him. Second, although you may see the crate as being a prison, your dog sees it as his own room. Dogs have a “den instinct.” The crate satisfies this instinct, providing him with a safe, secure place all his own. Finally, crating makes house-training much easier. Most dogs will not eliminate where they sleep when at all possible. Crating your dog when you are unable to directly supervise him will make the task of potty-training much easier. Just remember, a young puppy can only “hold it” for about 4 hours. If you are going to leave your puppy home alone for longer than a few hours, you should expect to find a mess when you return. However, as the puppy grows older, he will develop control over his bowels and bladder and be able to hold it for longer periods until he is eventually able to wait a normal eight-hour work day.
To facilitate crate training, establish the crate as your foster dog’s “safe zone.” Put the crate in an area away from commotion and if your dog starts getting overwhelmed, calmly lead him to his crate. Always feed and give treats in the crate so he associates it with positive experiences. You can also put a high-value toy or special treat inside to encourage him to go in. This also keeps him busy, making him less likely to feel anxious. Eventually your dog will learn that if he is scared, anxious or just wants to be alone he can go to his crate and be safe. More information on crate training can be found in the next section. If you need help with crating your new dog, just ask. We want your dog to associate his crate with safety and security. If being put in the crate is a traumatic experience, we are defeating the purpose.
Basically, in order to ease your foster’s transition try to avoid anything that may further stress him or her.. And please give your new dog time and space to fully decompress for the first two weeks, minimum. Some dogs may need more, some less. You will know he is adjusting to his new world when he no longer appears to be constantly on edge. He will also begin to not only seek but also enjoy your attention. Once these new, confident behaviors are well-established you can consider introducing him to any resident pets.
If at any time you feel your foster dog is a danger in any way, contact Steph IMMEDIATELY to discuss the situation and devise a solution. If you, another person or an animal is harmed and your foster dog is involved in any way, regardless of the circumstances, first seek immediate medical attention for the injured party/parties if necessary. Then contact Steph regarding the proper procedure to follow. Each state, county, city and town have specific policies and procedures so where the incident occurred will dictate where we go from here. The CPR Fund follows all state and local regulations pertaining to animals. There are no exceptions.
Introducing your resident dog to a foster dog can be very challenging and should not be attempted until your foster dog appears comfortable and well- adjusted in his new home. For the first two weeks dogs should not be allowed in direct contact. Keep one dog crated while the other is free and alternate them regularly. Doing so allows the dogs to see and smell each other. It also allows each dog to study the other’s behavior, mannerisms and general attitude. And both dogs remain safe should a conflict arise because the crate keeps them physically separated. Once the dogs seem comfortable around each other you can start the introduction process. Each introduction is different so always be alert and look for signs of distress in either dog whether it is their first meeting or their 50th. There are many techniques used to introduce a foster dog to resident pets. The process we follow can be found at the end of this handbook in Appendix IV- “Recommendations for Dog Introductions.” Again, these are just guidelines. You should tailor the steps to fit your particular dogs’ needs. And if you need help, just ask.
Common Shelter Illnesses
Most animal control facilities and many humane societies are under-funded, under-staffed and over-burdened with unwanted animals. And while most facilities do the best they can with what they have, often it isn’t enough. There are several conditions common in shelter situations that you may have to treat in your foster dog. This section covers the most common illnesses in shelter dogs. The next section outlines at-home treatment options for them.
Lack of Dirt Disease: Because most of our fosters were living in sub-standard conditions prior to rescue, they generally develop what one foster mom has named “Lack of Dirt Disease.” Once the dog is removed from the filthy environment, given clean water and good food on a regular basis and treated for intestinal parasites, the system goes into a sort of “shock.” This usually entails a few days of diarrhea or a few weeks of a runny nose and cough, possibly both. This condition is more common in puppies than adult dogs but almost all of the dogs have it to some degree. Because the diarrhea is usually caused by intestinal parasites and/or the stress of the shelter, a dose of worming medication and a change of environment clears most cases up within a few days. The runny nose and cough* usually hang on a little longer. Because the condition is generally viral, antibiotics do not help. We have adopted a “wait and see” approach with this condition. If there is no improvement within 3-5 days, a course of antibiotics is started to decrease the likelihood of a secondary infection. There should be considerable improvement within seven days. This is nothing to panic about; they ALL get it. As long as the dog is still eating, drinking, peeing, pooping, and playing chances are the illness is bothering you more than it is bothering the dog. If there is no improvement within seven days or the dog’s condition deteriorates, contact Steph to discuss the situation.
*NOTE: As of January 2016, Chicago Animal Care and Control (CACC) is still not in control of the Canine Influenza Virus (CIV) outbreak. Any dog that comes from this facility has, at the very least, been exposed to the virus. Some of the dogs are tested but others are not. Regardless of testing or symptoms, ALL DOGS FROM THIS FACILITY SHOULD BE CONSIDERED FLU-POSITIVE AND EXTREMELY CONTAGIOUS! For this reason, any dog pulled from CACC needs to be in strict quarantine for 2-3 weeks. During this time they should not be allowed to interact with any other animals under any circumstances. You should also wash your hands frequently to minimize the risk of taking the virus with you everywhere you ago. This virus is EXTREMELY contagious and very dangerous, sometimes rapidly progressing into pneumonia. Before any dog is pulled from CACC, you will have to discuss the situation with Steph to ensure the rescue is equipped to deal with any potential problems. As of this update there are vaccines available for both strains of the CIV virus. We strongly encourage the owners of any dog that frequently encounters dogs outside the home to talk to their veterinarian about the pros and cons of these vaccinations. For more information on CIV you can visit https://www.avma.org/public/PetCare/Pages/CanineIn... or talk to your veterinarian.
Kennel Cough : Kennel cough is actually a generic term for several diseases of the respiratory tract that cause a dry, hacking cough. It is very similar to a cold in humans and is transmitted in much the same way, by coming in contact with an infected individual. All of your current pets should be vaccinated against kennel cough prior to the arrival of your first foster dog. The disease has an incubation period of 2 to 14 days. This means the dog starts to develop symptoms 2 to 14 days after exposure. In general, the illness resolves on its own. We feel that it is best not to treat this condition with antibiotics since it is almost always self-limiting and the organism that causes kennel cough is a normal inhabitant of the upper airways. Treatment may lead to antibiotic-resistance problems, which makes it more difficult to treat the most serious potential complication, pneumonia. Although, a simple case of kennel cough progressing to pneumonia is very rare. You can give Robitussin DM to help with the symptoms if absolutely necessary, keeping in mind that the coughing is beneficial because it helps expel infected mucous from the lungs. If your foster does not show improvement within seven days, the symptoms get worse or the dog stops eating/drinking/playing/pooping, contact Steph or Jill to schedule a vet appointment.
Worms: Worms is a general term used to encompass several different species of parasites. Shelter dogs often have any or all of the following: roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms. Roundworms are long and white and described as looking like spaghetti. Hookworms are very small and require microscopic examination of a stool sample. Whipworms are also very small and require a fecal examination. Tapeworms are flat and obviously segmented. As the tapeworm grows, some of the segments are shed and may be seen caught in the hair around the anus or in their feces. They look like grains of rice. Most worm infestations cause diarrhea (perhaps with blood,) weight loss, dry hair, general poor appearance and vomiting (perhaps with worms in the vomit- YUCK!) However, some infestations cause few or no symptoms. Because of this, we assume all our dogs have all of the above and are treated accordingly. They receive Drontal Plus the day they arrive and a second dose two to three weeks later, if needed. To keep your personal pets from getting worms, you should try to keep your fosters in an isolated area when using the bathroom and keep the feces picked up. Also, Heartguard Plus will prevent infestation of most kinds of worms. For this reason, it is imperative that your personal pets are on Heartguard year-round.
Coccidia: Coccidia is an intestinal infection found in puppies less than 6 months of age and, most commonly, in puppies less than 12 weeks. The disease also occurs in immunosuppressed adults or animals who are stressed (i.e. noisy shelter, change in environment.) The incubation period for coccidia is about two weeks. The most common symptom of coccidia is diarrhea. Because most cases are mild, treatment is often unnecessary. Again, as long as the dog is eating, drinking, peeing, pooping and playing he is most likely fine. If the diarrhea seems excessive or continues for several days, isolate the puppy from other animals and contact Steph or Jill. As with worms, the best way to keep your personal pets from developing coccidia is to keep your fosters in an isolated area when using the bathroom and properly dispose of their feces.
Parvo Virus : This is a bad one. We don’t see it all that often because the disease is usually fatal when left untreated and the dog dies at the shelter before rescue is even contacted. Parvo is most common in puppies under 12 weeks of age although it is possible for an adult dog to contract the virus. The disease has an incubation period of five to fourteen days. Your foster may seem fine for a week and then suddenly fall gravely ill. Dogs with parvo act like they are in extreme pain. Early symptoms are depression, loss of appetite, vomiting, high fever and severe, foul-smelling diarrhea. Feces can be either grayish or liquid and bloody. It also has an extremely foul smell distinct to this illness. Rapid dehydration is a danger and dogs may continue to vomit and have diarrhea until they die, usually about three days after the onset of symptoms. Others may recover without complications and have no long-term problems. Puppies can die suddenly of shock as early as two days into the illness. This is not just a little diarrhea or upset stomach. The dog will look extremely sick. If you have any concerns that your foster may have Parvo, immediately separate him from any other pets and call Steph or Jill. Your dog will need veterinary care immediately. To prevent your pets from getting Parvo, they will be vaccinated against it prior to the arrival of your first foster. Again, Parvo is very rare in adult dogs and should not endanger your personal pets in any way.
Because most of these illnesses have an incubation period of about 10 days, we require you to keep your dog in foster care for at least 10 days prior to adoption. Although this does not guarantee the dog will not develop one of these diseases, it does make it less likely.
These are just the most common problems we see in the shelter dogs and is by no means a comprehensive list. If your dog is exhibiting signs and symptoms of any of the above, check the document entitled “Quick Fixes for Common Problems” at the end of this text and contact the CPR Fund. We will evaluate the problem and get you the appropriate treatment. For conditions we cannot treat ourselves, you’ll need to take your foster to the vet.
The CPR Fund works with the following veterinary clinics:
Animal Care Center in Chicago, IL
Animal Care Center in St. John, IN
Anti-Cruelty Society in Chicago, IL
Arbor View Animal Hospital in Valparaiso, IN
PAWS in Chicago, IL
Roselle Animal Hospital in Schaumburg, IL
Spay IL in Lisle, IL
VCA Forest South Animal Hospital in University Park, IL
We also utilize Premier Veterinary Group for any dog that needs specialized care not available at one of our regular veterinary offices. They have multiple locations in the Chicagoland area. For exact addresses, phone numbers, policies and procedures for each clinic please see the vet list at the end of this handbook. These clinics give us a rescue discount, allowing us to remain financially viable. We do not use any other veterinary clinics. The staff at these clinics is very familiar with our organization, volunteers and procedures. Your foster dog will have as much of his age-appropriate vetting done as possible prior to coming to your home. However, if the dog is ill or is very young, he may still require shots, worming, heartworm test, etc. A CPR Fund volunteer will let you know if your dog requires further veterinary care. We will also give you a schedule showing what is still needed and when it needs to be done.
If your dog needs to be evaluated by a veterinarian, contact Steph or Jill to obtain a Permission to Treat (PTT) Form. EACH CLINIC HAS ITS OWN FORM AND WILL NOT SEE THE DOG IF YOU DO NOT BRING THE CORRECT FORM*. If it is an emergency situation- i.e. the dog has been hit by a car, poisoned, having an allergic reaction, etc.- don’t call, just go. Please go to the clinic that is closest to your home or, if the emergency occurs after “normal” business hours, go to Forest South or one of the Animal Care Center locations. They are open late on weekdays and have hours on Saturday and Sunday. If you are bringing an emergency case to one of these clinics, please do your best to call ahead (to the clinic, Steph or Jill) so staff can prepare to care for your dog. All of our vets are very good about “squeezing us in,” taking emergency cases, and boarding our particularly ill fosters. For non-emergency cases, once you receive the PTT you can go to the vet at your convenience. Both Animal Care Center locations and Forest South/VCA are walk-in clinics so you do not need an appointment. For all other clinics you will need to call and make an appointment. Please note, Westchester is almost always running behind schedule so if you are taking your dog there, be prepared to wait. You will be responsible for taking your dog to the vet** unless other arrangements have been made. Because most of the CPR Fund’s volunteers work full-time and have other commitments, we do not have the resources to provide transportation in every case. Also, you will be able to describe your dog’s problem more accurately, ask questions and understand the treatment plan if you are there. Whatever charges are incurred during the vet visit are billed to the CPR Fund. You will be given any necessary medication, follow-up instructions, etc. Please e-mail Jill with this information so it can be entered into the dog’s medical record. * PLEASE NOTE: You must take a Permission to Treat Form to ALL vet visits. ** If your dog needs to see a vet and you are unable to get him there in a reasonable amount of time, contact Steph and she will try and find a way to arrange transport.
All CPR Fund’s dogs are required to be spayed or neutered. There are no exceptions, ever. We work with vets that will do surgery on dogs as young as 8 weeks of age (in certain cases) but we prefer to wait until the dog is between 10 and 12 weeks old. As with any vet appointment, it is your responsibility to ensure your dog makes it to his scheduled surgery appointment. Your dog should not have anything to eat or drink after 9 p.m. the night before surgery. Surgery schedules, drop off/pick-up times and other clinic information can be found in Appendix I on page 18 of this handbook.
If you are unable to accommodate this schedule, you will have to make other arrangements. Often times, you will be able to drop your dog off the night before at another foster home and they will transport your dog to the appointment and pick him up after surgery. Then you can retrieve your dog from that foster when your schedule allows. As always, if you need help arranging transport, just ask.
Prior to surgery, your dog should be up-to-date on all vaccines and preventatives. Refer to the vaccination schedule at the back of this manual or contact Steph or Jill if you have any doubts as to whether your dog requires any updates. He should also be in generally good health- no open sores, fleas, obvious signs of illness, etc. A little cough is okay but please don’t bring an obviously ill dog to be altered. The vet will not do the surgery and you will have wasted your time. Again, your dog should have nothing to eat or drink after 9 p.m. the night before surgery.
Following the surgery, you may give a little food and water the first night. Do not feed a full meal or copious amounts of water- your dog will vomit. Return to a normal feeding schedule in the morning. Monitor the incision closely for any redness, swelling, discharge, change in temperature or anything else out of the ordinary. In some cases, the inner incision is closed with absorbable sutures and the outer with glue. Although the glue is quite strong, it can give way if the dog is licking or overly active. Keep the dog calm the first few days after surgery. If he is licking/scratching the incision, contact the CPR Fund for an E-collar. You can also take an old T-shirt and put it on the dog “backwards” with the tail through the neck opening and the hind legs in the armholes. Tie the waist of the shirt snugly around the dog’s abdomen. Besides keeping the dog from licking, it provides you with quite a laugh.
Some veterinarians include the cost of antibiotics and/or pain medicine in the price of the surgery and will send medication home with you. Others give these medications via injection before your dog leaves. Most dogs recover quickly without medication but if you feel your dog needs pain control and/or antibiotics, contact Steph or Jill to discuss the situation. We keep both medications on hand so do not buy them from the vet. Use both as prescribed. In our experience, the males rarely require pain medication at all and the younger females are back to normal within two days. The adult females generally require several days’ worth of rest and pain medication to fully recover. Still, each dog is different. Use your judgment or contact the CPR Fund or veterinarian for advice.
Publicizing Your Foster
Once your foster gets a chance to “settle in “ and appears to be happy and healthy, it is time to get him posted on the CPR Fund website, Petfinder, Facebook and the many other websites we use to promote adoption. Please take photos of your foster enjoying their new home life. PICTURES ARE THE FIRST THING TO CATCH THE EYE OF A POTENTIAL ADOPTER so please get the best pictures possible. There are over 200,000 adoptable pets listed on Petfinder alone. You need great pictures to make your dog stand out and get noticed. Seriously, this cannot be stressed enough. Natural sunlight provides the best lighting so pictures taken outdoors are ideal. Also, take pictures of your foster during various activities. Nobody wants to see 12 pictures of the same dog sleeping on the couch. If you need help getting good pictures consider contacting Barbara or Jill for more tips. Both are excellent photographers.
Also, take note of your dog’s likes/dislikes, habits, behavior and other pertinent information. Some examples: Is he good with other dogs/cats/kids? Is he housebroken/crate-trained? What is his activity level? List any commands your dog already knows or if he has graduated from an obedience class. Finally, include anything cute or “special “about your particular foster. This gives him a bit of personality and helps separate him from every other dog listed.
If you need help writing a bio, visit www.petfinder.com to see thousands of examples.
Email/text copies of all paperwork you received from the shelter, pictures and biography information to Steph@cprfund.com so she can enter your foster into the system and get him posted to the various websites. And please CC Barbara@cprfund.com on these emails as she handles the CPR Fund Facebook page. Your foster will then be put onto the various websites. Most CPR Fund adoptions originate from our website, Facebook, Petfinder.com, etc so it is very important you do your best when submitting your dog’s information.
Now comes the fun part- finding your foster a forever family! As a foster parent, you know your dog better than anyone. For this reason, we encourage all foster families to choose their own adopters. If you are uncomfortable with this arrangement, please let us know and we will assign another volunteer to handle your dog’s adoption.
The most important thing to remember when evaluating an adoption application is that just because the prospective parents will provide a good home does not mean it is the right home for your dog. For example, the prospective family may have a glowing vet reference and are wonderful people. But, they are in their late seventies and live in a one-bedroom apartment. If they were applying for an 8-week-old Lab puppy they would be denied. If they were applying for a three year old Chihuahua they would be approved. Please remember that we are looking for permanent, appropriate homes for our fosters.
Because every dog is different, every adoption is different. However, there are a few hard and fast rules: - No CPR Fund dog is to be adopted as an “outside dog” - All dogs are to be kept indoors as part of the family. - No large or very active breeds are to be adopted to apartment dwellers. We also suggest a fenced yard. - No dogs will be adopted for breeding, scientific experimentation, hunting, guard/attack use, or any purpose other than companionship. - We do not adopt animals as presents or gifts without the potential adopter’s knowledge and approved application - No Pit Bull or Pit Bull mix will be adopted to any person who lives in a community with breed-specific legislation (BSL) in place. Again, if you have a bad feeling about an adoption but can’t put your finger on why- don’t do the adoption. Trust your gut! The CPR Fund is a private rescue and has the right to refuse any adoption for any reason. If you would not have this family over to your home for dinner, don’t give them your dog. And, if you have any questions just ask!
Besides word of mouth, our adoptions come from two main sources: the internet and events. The internet is a fabulous tool to help find your dog a forever family. Besides the numerous sites we post the dogs for you, you can use your own Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, etc. to promote your foster dog and CPR Fund in general. Obviously we ask that any posts pertaining to the group are not offensive, foul or inflammatory. We are all adults working toward one goal so hopefully that goes without saying.
There are various events scheduled throughout the year. There may be an Adoption Day at Petsmart, a donation drive outside a store or even a large event with many other rescues. If you have an idea for an adoption event please feel free to share. We are always looking for new and interesting ways to showcase our adoptables. It is your responsibility to make sure your foster gets to these events. If you are unable to accompany your dog, you can send an email to the group to see if another volunteer can help. We do sometimes have volunteers who can’t foster but are willing to help transport and/or handle the dog during the event. Participation in these events is ESSENTIAL and STRONGLY encouraged. These Adoption Days are advertised and potential adopters expect to see our available dogs. Events also help by spreading the word about our organization and by bringing in much-needed donations. Dates and times of upcoming events are always posted on the CPR Fund website, Facebook and via email so please check these regularly.
After your dog is posted, you will start receiving emails asking for more information on the dog as well as adoption applications.
There are three phases of approving an application. First, if the applicant has other pets, call their vet for a reference. Current pets should be up-to-date on vaccinations, altered, and current on heartworm preventative. Also, make sure they do not have other pets not listed on the application. Feel free to ask the staff questions about the adopters. Do they have a history of “getting rid of” pets? Are their current pets in good condition when they are brought in for appointments? Is there any other pertinent information that should be considered? Occasionally a vet’s office will refuse to answer any questions without the applicant giving them permission to share. If that happens, contact the applicant and explain the situation. If they have nothing to hide they should have no problem allowing their vet to speak with you.
Second, if they have a landlord, contact them. Be sure to ask specifics. If the landlord says, “Yes, they can have a dog” be sure to ask if there is a weight/size limit, breed restrictions, or an increase in rent or security deposit for the tenant. Also, ask if the prospective adopter is a responsible person. Some, not all, landlords are more than happy to tell you the tenant stays out until all hours of the night, never pays rent on time or has frequent visits from the police. Again, use your judgment.
If the first two checks go well, the final step is to interview the family. Be sure to ask a lot of questions. And notice if they don’t ask any. This is the part where you need to trust your instincts. If you don’t have a good feeling about the adoption, don’t do it. Again, refer to this manual or contact us for guidance.
If your foster happens to be a Pit Bull or Pit Bull mix, you will also need to call the animal control, police department, humane society or whatever municipal body oversees animal ordinances and find out if there is any breed-specific legislation (BSL) where the applicant lives. THIS STEP IS VITAL. Some communities have enacted laws that force bully breed owners to take out enormous homeowner’s insurance policies, muzzle their dogs when in public, install a six foot privacy fence and all sorts of other rules and restrictions. Some communities have outright banned Pit Bulls. Under no circumstances will a bully breed be adopted to a family living in a BSL community. Period.
Pit Bull fosters are also encouraged to send potential adopters a copy of “So You Want to Own a Pit Bull” which is included in the back of this handbook.
Finally, schedule a home visit. This will be exactly like the visit that was done at your home prior to you becoming a foster parent. We are not judging people on the way they live. We simply want to ensure our dogs are being adopted into safe homes. Again, if the applicant has nothing to hide, allowing a home visit shouldn’t be an issue. This is another time when you should trust your gut. If something seems off it probably is. And obviously, if the place is filthy, has other animals (or children) that do not appear to be cared for or anything else that sets off an alarm, politely conclude the visit and deny the application via email to eliminate any possible safety issues. Then report the situation to Steph so the proper people can be notified.
Occasionally you will receive an application from someone wanting to adopt a dog to be kept outside, used for guard work or for another use deemed unacceptable by the CPR Fund. Our dogs are to be kept as INDOOR COMPANION ANIMALS ONLY. Applications requesting dogs for any other purpose are summarily denied, regardless of how nice the people may be. Every once in a while someone will try to wiggle their way around this policy. The person will submit a new application for different dog and leave off whatever it was that got them denied. Since there is only one person receiving and distributing the applications, the same person would receive this second application and most likely remember the previous application’s denial. The adoption application screener is very good at her job so very few applications get past her but, be aware, it could happen. We have also had cases where the applicant slipped up and mentioned something about having been denied by CPR Fund in the past. If that happens, try to get as much information as possible and contact Steph. Also contact Steph if the applicant shares any information that may need the attention of law enforcement, animal control, etc. Perhaps they tell you their previous dog froze to death while living outside in Chicago in January. Maybe one died of heartworm infestation, which is medical neglect. Basically, anything that concerns you should be discussed with Steph. Neglect and cruelty cases MUST be reported.
Once you have chosen a forever family for your foster, set up a meeting place to pick up the adoption fee and give the dog to them. The CPR Fund accepts cash or check only. If they want to pay with a credit card they can do so via Paypal at email@example.com. If they choose this option be sure to check with Steph to make sure the fee has been paid before you release the dog. Your meeting place can be a local park, Petco/Petsmart, your home or wherever is convenient and where you feel safe. Be sure to bring your dog’s shot records/rabies tag (if you have them), microchip information, CPR Fund business cards, any chronic medication the dog may be taking and anything else that should go home with the dog. Regarding medications, CPR Fund will not adopt out a dog that is currently being medicated for a curable condition (i.e. upper respiratory infection, intestinal parasites, etc.) The adopter will have to wait until the course of treatment is completed. Under no circumstances should a visibly ill dog be sent home.
Inform the adopter that their new dog comes with a free 30 day Shelter Care pet insurance policy. If they would like to keep the insurance beyond the 30 days they will need to contact Shelter Care directly and set it up with them as we are not affiliated with and have no control over the Shelter Care company.
Also educate the adopter regarding the microchip. The microchip is, and always will be, registered to the CPR Fund. But by logging on to the 24 Pet Watch website the new owner will be able to add his or her own information as well. Please emphasize the importance of registering the chip. Approximately 80% of dogs who are lost are never reunited with their families- that’s why we’re so busy! By registering the chip, the numbers are reversed- over 80% of dogs with a registered microchip are reunited with their owners.
Let the adopter know that within a day or two of the adoption they will receive an email containing their new dog’s medical record, microchip registration instructions and details on redeeming their free 30 day Shelter Care insurance policy. Tell them that if they do not receive this information within a few days they should contact the rescue. Also, you might want to suggest they check their spam folder and to be on the lookout for an email with a subject line mentioning their new pet- often times people think it is junk mail and just delete it.
Finally, discuss what will happen if the adoption does not work out. If they make a decision to return the dog within seven days of the adoption we will take the dog back and refund the fee. After seven days we will still take the dog back but the fee will not be refunded. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE THEY TO GIVE THE DOG TO ANYONE EXCEPT A CPR FUND VOLUNTEER. We have had adopters dump their dogs at the pound, vets’ offices or be found running at large by the police. We are able to track each dog and where it belongs through the microchip so if the dog finds itself in any of these situations it is very unlikely that we will not find out about it. And when we do we will enforce any possible penalties associated with their actions.
Answer any questions the adopter may have and give them a CPR Fund business card so they have the rescue’s contact information. Have them sign the adoption agreement. Collect the fee. And that’s it.
ADOPTION COMPLETED! See, wasn’t that easy?
_____ Inform Steph that your foster has gone home
_____ Forward a copy of the Adoption Application you received in your email to
Steph@cprfund.com. Do this as soon as possible. As soon as an adoption is entered
into our system, Shelter Care insurance starts the clock on the insurance policy so this
is very time-sensitive.
_____ Send adoption fee and signed agreement to the address below. Please do your best to
mail it in a timely manner. We use the adoption fee from one dog to pay for the vetting
of the next one. If the adopter paid with PayPal you still need to mail the agreement.
Checks are to be mailed to*: CPR Fund PO BOX 303 Lowell, IN 46356
_____ If you are planning to continue fostering you may keep all supplies given to you by
CPR Fund. If not, all items must be returned to the rescue.
You have just finished reading the bare bones of foster care. Although fostering can be very demanding of both your time and patience, the rewards are immeasurable. As stated, there is no “typical” foster case. Each dog is as individual as a fingerprint. It may take some time for you to find your niche but, once you do, you’ll be very glad you did. And again, if you have ANY questions, comments or suggestions we are here for you.
Appendix I: CPR Fund Veterinarians
Animal Care Center of Chicago - NO APPOINTMENT NEEDED*
1248 W. Washington Blvd Chicago, IL 60607
Surgeries are done M-F only. Routine check-ups can be done 7 days a week.
Seven days a week from 6:30am to 8pm (Doctor’s hours 8am to 8pm)
*Surgical patients must be dropped off between 7am and 9am. Call around 3:30 pm to check on pick-up time.
Animal Care Center of St. John - NO APPOINTMENT NEEDED*
10255 Wicker Avenue Suite 1
St. John, IN 46373 (Inside Alsip Nursery)
Surgeries are done M-F only. Routine check-ups can be done 7 days a week.
M-F 7am to 8pm (No doctor on premesis until 8 am)
Sat 7am to 6pm (No doctor on premesis until 8 am)
Sun 10am to 5 pm (Doctor on premises from 10-5)
*Surgical patients must be dropped off between 7am and 9am. Call around 3:30 pm to check on pick-up time.
Anti-Cruelty Society- APPOINTMENT REQUIRED
169 W. Grand Blvd. Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 644-8338 X340
No dogs weighing more than 75 pounds
Surgeries are done M-F only.
* Surgical patients must be dropped off between 8am and 9am. Pick up is between 5:30pm and 6pm
Be prepared to wait as there are a bazillion people trying to drop off/pick up at the same time.
Arbor View Animal Hospital- APPOINTMENT REQUIRED*
244 W. US Hwy 6
Valparaiso, IN 46385
* Surgical patients must be dropped off between 8am and 9am. Get pick-up time from staff at drop-off.
PAWS Chicago Lurie Clinic- APPOINTMENT REQUIRED
3516 W. 26th Ave.
Chicago, IL 60623
Phone hours (all services are by phone appointment only)
Sun-Fri 9am to 5 pm
Sun 6:45 am to 6 pm
Tues 6:45am to 6pm
Wed 6:45am to 6pm
Thur 6:45am to 6pm
Rescue surgeries are done on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday only.
* Surgical patients must be dropped off between 9am and 9:30 am with pick up between 4:30 and 6 pm. You will meet with a veterinarian prior to drop off and pick up. Each visit takes about an hour so please plan ahead.
Premier Veterinary Group
Multiple locations offering various specialty services
Contact Steph@cprfund.com for a referral
Roselle Animal Hospital- APPOINTMENT REQUIRED
27W571 Lake St.
Roselle, IL 60172
Mon-Fri 8am to 6pm
Sat 8am to 1pm
* Surgical patients must be dropped off between off between 8am and 8:30am. Ask the staff for an estimated pick up time.
Spay Illinois- APPOINTMENT REQUIRED
2765 Maple Ave.
Lisle, IL 60532
* Surgical patients must be dropped off between 7am and 8am. Ask staff for an estimated pick up time.
VCA Forest South Animal Hospital- NO APPOINTMENT NEEDED*
24341 Western Avenue
University Park, IL 60466
Surgeries M-F only. Routine check-ups can be done 7 days a week.
M-F 6:30am to 8 pm (No doctor on premesis until 8am)
Sat 7am to 6pm (No doctor on premesis until 8am)
Sun 9am to 3pm (Doctor on premesis from 9am to 3 pm)
*Surgical patients must be dropped off between 7 and 9am. Call around 3:30 pm to check on pick-up time.
PLEASE REMEMBER THAT ALL CLINICS REQUIRE A PTT FORM SO PLEASE BE SURE TO GET ONE FROM STEPH PRIOR TO MAKING AN APPOINTMENT OR GOING TO A CLINIC.
Appendix II: Quick Fixes for Common Problems
Following are a few “quick fix” home remedies for problems commonly seen in shelter dogs. Please remember the CPR Fund volunteers are not veterinarians. These are treatments that, in our experience, have been successful in treating some of the more minor ailments we see in our fosters. These are only recommendations and are not meant to replace the advice of a licensed veterinarian. Please use common sense when applying this information to your foster dog’s situation. When in doubt, ask!
Allergies/Hives/Itching: Many dogs have allergies to substances common in their environment- fleas, pollen, food, etc. If you notice your dog scratching excessively, first check him for fleas. If you notice live fleas or “flea dirt” immediately give him a flea bath and apply Frontline once the dog is dry. If no fleas are seen or you note a minor case of hives administer Benadryl (diphenhydramine) as follows: Less than 30 pounds- ½ tablet* or 12.5 mg 30 to 50 pounds- 1 tablet* or 25 mg Greater than 50 pounds- 2 tablets* or 50 mg *Liquid Benadryl is also acceptable ** PLEASE NOTE: A severe allergic reaction, or anaphylaxis, is a medical emergency. Anaphylaxis is a severe, whole-body allergic reaction which can be fatal. Symptoms include difficulty breathing, wheezing, abnormal (high-pitched) breathing sounds, rapid or weak pulse, blueness of the skin (including the lips or nail beds), fainting, hives and generalized itching, anxiety, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain or cramping, skin redness, nasal congestion, cough. YOUR DOG WILL LOOK AND ACT VERY SICK! If you suspect your dog is having an anaphylactic reaction immediately give two Benadryl and head for the vet! Also note: Benadryl may make your dog sleepy so avoid using it with Valerian or Dramamine.


Nothing available at this time
Our sheltie puppies are raised with love in our home. They go to their new homes eyes & health vet checked, tattooed & vaccinated. We try to give each puppy a good start at being a confident, well adjusted adult by exposing them to social situations, noises and handling. We will always be available to help in anyway we can to assure the puppy and new family are successful in growing together.
We may breed several carefully planned litters in a year. We do not keep the typical first-come-first-served type of waiting list. Rather, we try to spend time getting to know people who are interested in puppies, so we can match the right sheltie puppies with the right families. We carefully screen prospective buyers, as we are looking for the best “Forever Homes” possible for our puppies.
When you email us ... Tell us a little bit about your family and home. Are you thinking about trying obedience, agility, herding or conformation? Tell us about previous dogs or pets. If this will be your first Shetland Sheepdog, what made you decide on this breed? We are happy to help people decide if a sheltie is right for them.
Watch the video of our pups


Thursday, August 22, 2013
I have been trying to write this post since he died and I have not been able to. I figure I owe him a tribute on the first anniversary of his death.
First, to explain the elephant marker on his grave. The only toy he came to us with was an elephant and we were told it was a favorite of his. We replaced the elephant over the years, but they always remained his favorite. We had two in the house when he died and we buried him with one and we kept one that Madeline has in her menagerie of stuffed animals on her bed. We thought an elephant marking his final resting spot was appropriate and that he would have loved it.
We found Wicket through a Shih Tzu rescue organization in Chicago. We actually had gone to their event to see another dog, but came to find out that that dog already had someone just waiting to take him home. So we started looking around at the other dogs and found one scratching at his cage and making all sorts of noise with an underbite. I loved him from the minute I saw him. He was already seven years old and had endured some trauma in his life once he left the people who had had him since he was a puppy. He was named Kokomo at that time and we knew we would have to change that. We asked to spend time with him and he instantly sat in my lap and never left it for close to ten years.
We had issues in the beginning as he chased our cats everywhere and had a hard time warming up to Brian. But we got through it and he ended up being a wonderful dog. We had many adventures together, including welcoming a new little being into our home when we had Madeline. Wicket could be ornery with a lot of people, but he was rarely that way with me. I seriously worried about how he would handle Madeline, but he loved her and showered her with kisses, just like he did to everyone. For an older dog, he was extremely patient with Madeline and she loved him.
His last year was hard. He had been taking medicine for a heart problem for many years, but I think the years of hardship finally caught up to him. He always loved his walks, but in that last year, he stopped his walks all together. He just slept on the couch most days, instead of playing and running around the house. Having a toddler made it hard to give him the attention he needed and deserved and I still beat myself up about that. I just have to hope that he knows how much I loved him. He was my first baby. A few days before we put him down, he was barely able to breathe and I think he was mostly gone already. He looked up at me, gave me one last lick and then basically left us. He wasn't himself after that and I knew we had to let him go. I knew that he had held on as long as he did for us and now we needed to let him go and stop his suffering. We had someone come to the house so he was surrounded by all his things and was at peace as he had always hated the vet. It was one of the hardest things I ever had to do.
I could fill pages with stories about Wicket. He was a loving, cranky, licky, stubborn, joyous and playful dog. I have so many wonderful memories of him and with him. For those that have never had a dog, it is hard to explain what they mean to you as a family member. Dogs just want to be with you, simply put. They don't judge you, they don't expect you to act a certain way or look a certain way. They just love you. That was what Wicket was for me. And it is hard to replace that once it is gone. I will miss him for a very long time and I certainly won't forget him. Until I see you again, Wicket...


Tulsa Pet-Friendly Apartments
Share quality living with your four-legged friend. At Barcelona Apartment Homes in Tulsa, Oklahoma, each unit is pet friendly and the spacious grounds are perfect for plenty of four-legged fun.
Should you want to add some diversity to your outings, over 270 acres of recreation are right across the street. As the only county park within Tulsa’s city limits, LaFortune Park has plenty of open space and trails for you and your pet to enjoy.
Barcelona does have a pet policy in place, including weight and breed restrictions. Residents are allowed up to two pets per apartment, and all pets are subject to management approval. Please contact our leasing office for a detailed copy of our pet policy, including rent and deposit information.
Now that you know your pet can reside with you at Barcelona, take a look at our photos to see how much fun is in store.
*Service Animals are not considered pets. Pet deposits and pet rent are not applicable for these service animals. Additional documentation may be requested.


The following list of Resources is provided as a courtesy to assist you. Some of the information/links are commercial in nature and having a listing here does not necessarily mean that AHS is endorsing one business over another. Resources that we know to be questionable will NOT be listed here; however, the absence of a listing here should not be construed as negative. The best approach is to do your research and use your own judgment.
DISASTER PREPAREDNESS FOR PET OWNERS
Be Prepared! Helpful Disaster Safety Tips for Pet Owners
by Jackie Shelton
LOST PET RESOURCES
City Dogs Grooming – Independent, locally-owned grooming salon in Whatcom County. Long time advocate and friend to AHS, City Dogs staff is familiar with all breeds and experienced with special needs dogs. They are willing to work with elderly and behaviorally challenged dogs.
Rover Stay Over – Rover Stay Over is an award-winning pet care facility that offers doggy daycare, vacation boarding, and grooming at a clean, modern kennel. They welcome the opportunity to care for your fur babies and companion animals.
Furbaby Rescue -This site is dedicated to the rescue of Shih Tzu and Lhasa Apsos. If space is available they rescue all small dogs.
Pet-friendly Rental Housing in Bellingham
Happy Tails Happy Homes Rescue
Hyline Hotel & Training for Dogs, LLC
Old Dog Haven
Saving Pets One At A Time
The Grey Muzzle Organization
Tails a Waggin Dog Daycare
WeSNIP (Whatcom Education Spay & Neuter Impact Program) – WeSNiP works with people of low income to arrange free or low cost spay/neuter services for their pets. Give them a call or email to discuss your eligibility.
Whatcom Humane Society – Providing animal control and rescue services for Whatcom County.
Whatcom Voice of the Animals
Grooming With Love – Located in Blaine, offers full grooming services to pamper your pet. **Offering free grooming to our adoptable dogs, AHS thanks you very much!
Rescued Hearts Northwest – A dedicated animal rescue group committed to saving and improving the lives of shelter dogs
Dog Gone Gorgeous – Dog Gone Gorgeous is a full service professional pet grooming salon. They specialize in holistic, gentle touch grooming in a clean, quiet, and safe environment. They focus on the needs of your pet as well as the quality of service. Located on the Guide Meridian, Dog Gone Gorgeous offer free grooming services to our adoptable dogs. Thank You Dog Gone Gorgeous!
Lickety Clips – Lickety Clips is a Washington State licensed vocational school for pet grooming. Become a professional pet stylist in as little as 14 weeks! Located in Mount Vernon, Lickety Clips offers free grooming for our adoptable dogs.
PUPPY TRAINING AND SOCIALIZATION
Adopting a Rescue Dog – The First Seven Days
Puppy Socialization and the Sensitive Period: When Is It, and Is It Important?
Before you get your puppy
After you get your puppy
Perfect Puppy in 7 Days – How to start your puppy off right!
Marine Mammal Stranding Network – Volunteer group for stranded or orphaned sea mammals: Wildlife biologist Mariann Carrasco; (360) 303-3608
Whatcom Humane Society Wildlife Rehabilitation Center – Orphaned and injured small mammals and birds for Whatcom County
Sardis Raptor Center – Specializing in rehabilitation birds of prey and public education: 7472 Valley View Road, Ferndale, WA 98248 (360)366-3863
Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife – For large or dangerous injured animals; (425) 775-1311
American Humane Association
American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA)
Best Friends Animal Society
Humane Farm Animal Care
Humane Society of Seattle and King County
Humane Society of the United States
International Society for Animal Rights
Northwest Organization for Animal Health (NOAH in Stanwood)
Pigs Peace Sanctuary
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA)
Progressive Animal Welfare Society
Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue
The Animal Rescue Site
DOG FOOD BANKS
WHS (Whatcom Humane Society) operates a pet food bank for Whatcom County residents who need short-term assistance providing pet food for their pets. Food is distributed on a first come, first served basis during shelter hours at both shelter locations. Wednesday thru Saturday 10:00 am–6:00 pm; Sunday and Monday 11:00 am–5:00 pm. Closed to the public on Tuesdays and on major holidays.
Whatcom Voice of the Animals—a non-profit, no-kill shelter—offers free pet food to low-income pet owners in the greater Bellingham Area. Whatcom Voice of the Animals distributes pet food at Bellingham Food Bank on the second and last Fridays of every month at 11:00 am and distributes until the food runs out. Bellingham Food Bank, 1824 Ellis St, Bellingham WA. For more information or to make a tax-deductible donation, please call 360-650-0556.
VETERINARY CARE ASSISTANCE
Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine Good Samaritan Fund – Veterinary care assistance. (509)335-0711
Having Trouble Affording Veterinary Care? – Article by The Humane Society of the United States
The Pet Fund
Brown Dog Foundation
Feline Veterinary Emergency Assistance Program
Canine Cancer Awareness
The Mosby Foundation
Magic Bullet Fund (cancer-specific)
God’s Creatures Ministry Veterinary Charity
Jake Brady Memorial Fund
GiveForward (set up a personal fundraising page)
ADDITIONAL CURATED ARTICLES
The Ultimate Guide to Traveling with Pets
Assistance Dog Resources
Emergency Planning for Pets
Shopping Green for Your Pet
Foster a Service Dog
Help with Vet Bills
VA Benefits for Service Dogs
The Ultimate Clean-House Guide for Dog Owners
VETERINARIANS WE WORK WITH
Lynden Veterinary Hospital
Chuckanut Valley Veterinary Clinic
Chuckanut Feline Center
Maplewood Animal Hospital
Northshore Veterinary Hospital
Blaine Animal Hospital


Jamestown, N.Y. – From noon to 2 p.m. on Saturday, April 29, 2023, the Unitarian Universalist Congregation of Jamestown (UUCJ) is having a community collection of items for the Pick of the Litter animal shelter in Falconer, New York.
High need items are clean, new or gently used towels, blankets (with no stuffing), and sheets. Other items needed are bleach, Milk Bones dog treats, cat litter, and paper towels. Cash donations are welcome as well.
UUCJ Social Justice Committee Chair Alyssa Raimondo-Swanson, who is organizing the collection, says, “The local community has been very generous when we have asked for donations of books, food items or school needs. We look forward to that same generosity for our four-legged friends!”
Pick of the Litter is a pet boarding, grooming, and Jamestown stray and adoption center. The no kill shelter is located in the former Humane Society building on the corner of Quaint Road and Elmwood Avenue in Falconer.
All strays picked up by the Jamestown police or dog warden are brought to Pick of the Litter. If you or someone you know has lost your dog in Jamestown, contact the shelter at 1805 E. Elmwood Avenue, Falconer, (716) 661-9707.
Pick of the Litter has as many as 360 or more dogs in a year. Approximately 60% are returned to their homes. After being held for 10 days, others are given rabies and distemper shots, spayed and neutered, and put up for adoption. They stay until they are adopted or fostered out or go to another stray center.
If you are interested in adopting or fostering a dog, you can stop in at Pick of the Litter any time 12 – 2 p.m. and 6 – 8 p.m., seven days a week.
The Unitarian Universalist Congregation of Jamestown is a progressive, liberal religious community serving the southern tier of Western New York and Warren County, Pa. The UUCJ’s mission is to support and celebrate each other, encourage spiritual and individual growth, and serve the wider community.
Photo caption: Unitarian Universalist Congregation of Jamestown Social Justice Committee member Janet Forbes (left) and chair Alyssa Raimondo-Swanson look forward to receiving donations of supplies for the Pick of the Litter animal shelter in Falconer on Saturday, April 29, noon – 2 p.m. Items will be accepted at the entrance off the parking lot behind their building at 1255 Prendergast Avenue.


Our «Food Booster» is a truly unique product. Formulated using all-natural ingredients to enhance your dog’s appetite, boost digestion & improve the overall immune system of your dog. Just add 1/2 teaspoon into your dog’s food to offer the health boost your dog’s need. Excellent for picky dogs, allergenic dogs and also for those who are on a special prescription diet.
Suitable for dogs of all sizes & ages - Low in fat - Free of hormones & antibiotics - No artificial colors, flavorings or preservatives, salt, sugar, and wheat.
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Weight: 5 oz
Ingredients: hormone & antibiotic free chicken breast, farm fresh low-fat cottage cheese, organic turmeric, kelp, goji berries and chia seeds.
Shipping: We ship to anywhere in the United States


Hi, I'm Marie Hedeman and together with my husband, Karl (up until he passed away September 2013), we are ASH'S-MYSTICAL POODLES. Growing up, I had miniature poodles as pets and aspired, since the 7th grade, to have my own show dogs. When Karl and I were married, in 1974, my miniature poodle, Happy, was in our wedding party. Now, I am living my poodle dreams, having finished ten champions in 2001. Since then in 2006, I am listed as the # 2 breeder in the US for CHampion Toy Poodles, and in 2008 as # 1 breeder in the US for CHampion Miniature Poodles as stated in the Poodle Variety Magazine. In December 2017 was honored to become an AKC Breeder of Merit 'Platinum' for Poodles!
All of our poodles are raised and bred, with love, in our home. My breeding dogs are personally selected and genetically tested to produce the healthiest possible pups with the best temperament and trainability. Because our poodles are our children, it is imperative that I place each dog into the very best home - for it. We don't put a square peg into a round hole; we want our pups to have forever families. Health and temperament are first and foremost in our breeding goals.
Over the years, ASH'S-MYSTICAL POODLES has proudly placed pups in working-dog homes and our poodles are represented in agility, search and rescue and serve as handicapped assistance dogs, as well as loving - and much loved - family members.
When you receive your poodle pup, remember: he/she will love you unconditionally; please, treat them they same way. The more time, attention and love given to your pup, the stronger the bond. The stronger the bond, the more you will realize that poodles are not just another dog, they are the closest thing to a human with four-legs that you will find. Training time is an investment in your future happiness.
To put a little Magic in your life, get a poodle. But beware: MPS (Multiple Poodle Syndrome) is very contagious. Perhaps, like many of our clients and friends, you'll find that one is not enough.
Now, here are some tips, and some lists, to help you get ready for the new pup.
Welcome to our family
There's no better feeling than knowing a new puppy will soon be on its way into your heart and into your home. If you've had a puppy before, you realize that preparation is the key to making the transition from breeder's home to your home easy. And, if this is your maiden voyage, our booklet, Welcoming Home Your New Puppy, given to every puppy owner, will be a more thorough resource guide for you. That booklet explains, in more detail, many of the points that are only briefly mentioned here, as well as brand new ones.
However, you will need to have a few things on hand before the puppy arrives, as well as preparing yourself and your family mentally. A game plan will make the transition smooth - - for both you and the pup.
Here are some points to discuss within your family so that everyone can agree on a routine for raising your newest family member.
Mentally planning for the pup
- One adult in the household must accept the ultimate responsibility for the pup. This includes feeding, elimination, making scheduled vet and grooming appointments and checking to insure other household members are, in fact, doing their puppy chores in a timely and reliable manner.
- Housebreaking is often easier using a crate, and it can also provide a safe "den" for the puppy. Dogs are social animals and want to be with their people. Discuss the best place to place the crate, like a wide hallway or family room. You may also move the crate into the bedroom of the main caregiver upon retiring, until the pup adjusts to its new home and is sleeping throughout the night.
- Never crate a pup longer than three or four hours without planning a break for relieving itself, getting a drink of water and having a snack. Playtime is also important. If you must leave your dog unattended for a longer period of time, decide if you will gate the kitchen or use a well-vented laundry room. Perhaps a friend or neighbor can drop in for a mid-day puppy break while you are at work, just until your puppy is used to its new home environment. And during this adjustment period, plan ahead, in case you must work overtime, too.
- Routine makes puppy raising easier. Decide where and when the puppy will be fed, watered and taken outdoors to relieve itself. Routine gives your new pup a sense of security and helps with housebreaking and training.
- Learning basic obedience can be a fun and educational way to spend time with your dog. Check into private instructors or group classes. Dogs need to know the rules, which every member of the family should follow fairly and consistently.
- Every pup needs to be socialized with people of both sexes and all ages. Plan activities that will socialize your pup with other animal and environments, while not overwhelming the newest family member. Read the article on our web site on Early Puppy Socialization to become familiar with the "do's and don'ts."
- Find a veterinarian. You may wish to visit several clinics in your area that have been recommended by friends and family members. Look for a knowledgeable, friendly staff and clean environment. Make certain you understand the importance of the puppy's inoculation schedule before you begin training and socialization. Never take your puppy outside your home until your veterinarian gives you an OK. Diseases, such as Parvo, can overwhelm a young pup. Read the article on our web site on Canine Parvo Virus; it may save your dog's life.
- Find a groomer. Again, visit several shops in your area that have been recommended. Ask your veterinarian if he has a preference, too. You want your poodle to look forward to being groomed. Using an understanding groomer is the best way to gain your pup's trust and avoid future problems with bathing and clipping. Start the pup off with a patient, gentle person who will maximize the experience and help the pup learn that going to the groomer is fun.
- Build a support system. Keep a list of people you can call for information, ideas and help. Of course, your breeder and veterinarian will be included. Others to include are your feed store, groomer, poison control center and emergency veterinary hospital that is open nights and weekends.
Shopping List for the New Pup
The basic shopping list for your new pup may include these items:
- Food - check with Marie to determine the proper sized kibble
- A few cartons of plain yogurt to mix in, by the teaspoon, with dry kibble for the first few days to ease any digestive problems and stress diarrhea
- Bowls - at least 2 water bowls and 1 food dish
- Pooper-scooper and plastic bag(s) or separate trash for dog droppings
- A foldable water dish or a non-spill bowl is great for later outings
- Crate - all of the pups come with a crate, so please check with Marie before purchasing
- Crate pan or crate pad - or both - sized to your crate (really is not necessary to begin with, an old towel or t-shirt that smells like you works great). But if you want to get an open wire crate for future or to use in a family area best to get one that will work when the pup is an adult and divide off as a puppy; check with Marie
- Baby gate(s) - if you must confine the pup to a kitchen or laundry room
- Exercise pen - if your yard is not securely fenced, or if a very small pup may escape under a fence or gate, you will need a secure area for the pup to play and another for it to relieve itself. You may also construct secure areas with mesh or plastic wire and a few fence posts. Be careful that the pup cannot catch its head in the fencing material.
Note: The best rule is never let a new pup go outdoors alone. Initially, you must be with it to direct it to the proper place to relieve itself, and then to praise, praise, praise. During outdoor playtime, the pup must be supervised. If you have a swimming pool - create a safe haven away from the pool, just as you would for a toddler.
- Leash - leather is easiest on your hands and recommended for training
- Retractable leash - for when the pup is older and wants to explore on walks
- All pups come with a collar and a leash, make certain to have an ID TAG
- Toys that are size appropriate for your pup. Pups enjoy a variety of textures:
- Plush toys - with nothing the pup can remove and swallow or choke on
- Kong toy - great for teething and for playing
- Booda bones, cow's ears, beef tendons, Tracheas
- Bully Sticks (either beef or buffalo) from the US, Argentina, or Brazil
- American made large, knotted rawhide bones (if you want to use rawhide but not recommended)
- Hard rubber ball, Frisbee and tug - - for outdoor playtime
- NO chopped or formed bones - they splinter
- NO stick type rawhide - they can jam into the throat of the pup or dog
- NO pigs ears, rolls, snouts - they are too greasy for the puppy and your
- NO old shoes or old socks or other household objects
Note: Throw out all small pieces to prevent the pup from swallowing them whole and either choking or having an intestinal obstruction.
- Large stuffed animal (puppy proofed) for the pup to cuddle when in the crate or its bed in the kitchen or laundry room. And, place this cuddly-toy in the crate with the pup when you move it into your room at night, too.
- Bitter apple spray - to keep the pup from chewing inappropriately
- A white vinegar and water solution 50-50, in a spray bottle - accidents will happen
- Johnson & Johnson baby shampoo or a very gentle conditioning shampoo for the pup
- Baby-sized toothbrush and canine active enzyme toothpaste, purchased from your vet; using toothpaste for people is dangerous for your pet
- Slicker brush, pin brush, greyhound comb (metal comb) and nail clippers
- A pair of long-nose hair-pullers or hemostats (without locks), ear powder, cotton balls and rubbing alcohol to properly maintain the poodle's ears
Note: Do not attempt to remove the hair from inside the ear until your vet tech, veterinarian or groomer has shown you the proper method. To avoid a lifetime of fear and anxiety in your poodle, have a professional introduce you and the pup to this procedure.
Helpful household items to have on hand are
Whether you are picking your pup up at the airport, or driving it all the way home in a car, here are some items to have on hand for the initial journey
Please remember: Your pup may be nervous and stressed. It has been through many new experiences in a very short time. This is the first time it has been away from the only home it has known. How would you feel in the same situation?
- Plain white paper towels
- Water for "washing" any messes
- Zip lock bags to contain the "mess" and those used paper towels
- Old sheet to spread across the seat area - and a clean one, just in case
- 3 or 4 large plastic garbage bags to use under the sheet or to contain a soiled sheet
- A second person - - if you are driving - - to deal with the puppy; better yet, let them drive so that you and the pup can begin bonding immediately
- Bottled water for the puppy to drink - and a bowl
- A chew or soft toy - - to divert the pup's attention
- A tape/CD of soft music to soothe the pup - no heavy metal on this trip, please
- A light collar will be on the puppy when it arrives; and a leash will be on top of the kennel
- Leave other pets at home, as well as small children, so that the trip can be as soothing as possible for the pup
Be patient and stay calm. This is not the time to begin training or scolding. Expect the worse, so no matter what happens, you are mentally, and physically, prepared to nurture the pup and offer it comfort, understanding and love.
A few words of common advice: pups are pups; they aren't human children. Training that is fair and consistent leads to a much happier pet. The Internet is a wonderful tool for research, but please remember not to believe or do everything that you read there. It is important that you check with your breeder, first. You may also find information on a variety of subjects. However, please check with your breeder or veterinary health care provider before using ANY diets, supplements or products that you hear about on bulletin boards or in chat rooms. I do NOT recommend a raw diet. Please go to this web site and read the information carefully: www.mybluedog.com/rawmeat.html
Having a new puppy in the family is wonderful. Quickly, your pup will come to understand the routine you've carefully planned. In a short time, the pup will be ready to explore its world and begin learning obedience commands. As the months fly by, you'll wake up one morning to notice that the adorable pup is now a beautiful, confident and loving adult dog. Of course, this is when many clients decide to add a second poodle to their home. Other clients decide to get two pups at the same time, to keep each other company. As long as you have the time to train both pups, and socialize them individually, as well as together, this is fine.
Welcome to our family. We enjoy receiving stories about our pups, and pictures, too. We're happy to answer questions and have a network of nutritional, health care and behavioral resources to share, if needed. I'm always ready to help you enhance your poodle experience or to offer tips and advice.
Taking time to plan for your new pup's arrival is essential to your overall success. I hope you've found this information, and our more extensive booklet, Welcoming Home Your New Puppy, helpful. The time, training and love you invest now will pay off handsomely in the future. You're poodle will gladly provide you with unconditional love for many years to come.
Best wishes to you and your pup,
Ash's Mystical Poodles


Front Street Animal Shelter last week reached critical capacity and asked for the community’s support, encouraging people to adopt an animal in need and waiving all associated fees.
Residents heard the message and responded.
In just five days, 115 animals were adopted from the shelter with another 80 adopted from foster care and the shelter’s Petco satellite center.
“We really appreciated the response from the community,” said shelter manager Phillip Zimmerman. “Their support made this adoption event a real success. We were especially excited by the number of large dogs that found homes in such a short period of time.”
Because Front Street Animal Shelter has limited space to house animals, the shelter over the years has developed innovative ways to support as many animals as possible, including an enhanced foster care program. Front Street will also work with people who find lost pets to help locate the owner.
“If an animal is healthy, we always ask the finder if they would be willing to hold onto the pet and search for the owner,” said Ryan Hinderman, the shelter’s customer service manager. “By doing so, the finder can use many strategies that the shelter can’t, such as walking the animal around the neighborhood and posting on Craigslist, Nextdoor and social media sites. These animals are often reunited with their families without ever needing to impact the shelter’s kennel space or experience the stress of the shelter environment.”
Front Street continues to have animals available for adoption. Click here to view adoptable pets.
The shelter is open seven days a week, with adoptions occurring from noon to 5 p.m.


Taiwan bans consumption of dog, cat meat
Taipei, April 11 (CNA) The Legislative Yuan on Tuesday passed a law amendment that prohibits the slaughter of dogs and cats for human consumption and increases the penalty for cruelty to animals.
The amendment to the Animal Protection Act allows a prison term of up to two years, plus a fine of NT$200,000 (US$6,524.5) to NT$2 million, for deliberate harm to animals that results in mangled limbs, organ failure or death.
Under the amended Animal Protection Act, the same penalty will apply in cases where dogs, cats or other protected animals are killed.
Prior to the amendment, the maximum penalty for such offenses was one year in prison and a fine of NT$1 million.
A new provision was also added to the law, banning the sale and consumption of dog and cat meat as well as any type of food products that contain the meat or parts of the animals.
Violation of the law is punishable by a fine of NT$50,000 to NT$250,000, and the names and photos of the offenders may be publicized, according to the amendment.
It also prohibits drivers and motorcycle riders from pulling animals along on a leash, and stipulates a fine of NT$3,000 to NT$15,000 for offenders.
The law was amended as Taiwan has moved away from a society in which dog meat was regularly consumed to one in which many people treat pet cats and dogs as valued members of their families.
(By Liu Kuan-ting and Y.F. Low)ENDITEM/pc
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My goal is not to populate the world with Cardigan Welsh Corgis, nor to "make a living" selling puppies. Too much popularity can compromise the health and temperament of any given breed--think Cocker Spaniels, German Shepherds, Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers, etc.--and in order to make money selling puppies, one is required to own many bitches and to breed them every single season. As a "hobby breeder," I breed only 1-2 litters per year. My emphasis is on the show ring, but in most cases not all pups in a litter are of show quality. This means that puppies destined to be household companions exist from birth, and are raised to be sound in temperament and body so they can provide years of loving companionship to their human families.
Being a breeder is a serious responsibility. The challenges are many: to raise a healthy, socialized, happy bitch; to find a stud dog who is equally good; to whelp and raise sound, social puppies. This requires researching pedigrees, understanding how genetics work, evaluating the bitch for her strengths and weaknesses as well as evaluating potential stud dogs, doing dietary homework, and being prepared for complicated pregnancies and whelpings which may require veterinary intercession and substantial expense. Another challenge is evaluating the puppies as show and pet prospects, sorting out their individual personalities, and socializing them.
The toughest challenge, however, is evaluating potential homes. When one has invested so much time and love in bringing a litter into the world and raising it for several months, one must be sure the puppies are going into the very best homes. Responsible, reputable breeders evaluate the potential homes just as they evaluate the puppies, and try to make the perfect match. Puppies are not peas in a pod, but develop individual personalities as they mature. Some are extremely outgoing and thus are more appropriate for an active family, while others will do better in quieter homes. This is why it's vital for a prospective owner to answer a series of questions about the lifestyle the dog will encounter. But puppy buyers should feel equally comfortable asking questions about a breeder's experience, philosophies, lifestyle, and goals.
Puppy mills, pet shops, and high-volume commercial breeders and brokers breed and/or sell puppies strictly for profit, not because they love them, and not because they wish the best for the welfare of the Cardigan Welsh Corgi breed. Reputable breeders refuse to sell their pups as breeding stock to such operations. For this reason, responsible hobby breeders are very careful qualifying potential puppy buyers, often have questionnaires, and provide contracts spelling out ownership terms for people who wish to purchase breeding prospects.
None of my puppies or older dogs, including retired champions, will be sold as breeding stock except in the following cases:
--To individuals known to me or to other reputable breeders, and who have experience in exhibition and/or breeding; or
--To newcomers who are committed to first achieving a championship on their dog or bitch, who will conduct health tests prior to breeding, and who will initially work closely with me to learn the breed so they may develop their own physically and temperamentally sound breeding program.
I welcome Cardigan Welsh Corgi newcomers to the world of exhibition and breeding, and am happy to assist them in any way. But the welfare of this wonderful breed should always come before any desire for awards and recognition.


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It’s been a few weeks since our new Dog, Rocky, come to Briden Farm. Many of You already know our girl, Holly.
Holly, a Golden Retriever/ Little River (Nova Scotia) Duck Toller who come to Briden Farm in April, 2021. She’s 8 years old, lived most of her life inside with Seniors. While she adjusted well to Farm Life, and gets along well with everyone here, she’d rather be inside than out. She’s exactly what I wanted, except for her desire to remain inside, and her choosing my Better Half to be her Pet, and not Me! We love each other, but she’s just not really “My Dog”.
So, we needed, another Dog, one that will be happier to be outside, especially when I’m out working, and perhaps a pup we can train to help even more around the Farm. That said, just yesterday, Holly helped me herd a chicken from one area to another while Rocky bounced around and tried to figure things out! It’s quite a thing to see, when using mostly hand signals, a dog responds and works to help you in such a way. That said, after we were done, she was done for the day! “I did my job, now I’m going in the house”, seems to be her motto!
So, along come Rocky, our Golden Labrador Retriever who is about 8 months old, as compared to Holly at 8 years. It’s taken some time, but the two dogs are starting to spend more time together, with both starting to enjoy their time together. However, Tis Gris, our 17 year old cat, is not quite sure! Although she rules over the Dogs!
Rocky, who is pictured at the top of this Post, is definitely my Dog, or perhaps I’m His! He stays on his mat when in the house, and comes to me to check in about every 20 minutes or so. He enjoys it outside, and enjoys spending time with me outside and stays with me, and checks in regularly when I’m outside working, He’s very responsive to my hand and sound signals. I give voice commands when needed, but have always mainly employed hand and sound signals when training and handling dogs. Since he’s a big boy, but only 8 months old, he’s sometimes rambunctious, but very loving and his gentleness will come with age. For me, he’s the Dog I’ve been missing! There’s something very intrinsic to having a dog who loves and trusts you and whom you can count on when you need them.
So, now, when you come visit us at Briden Farm, you will probably be met by our two Dogs, Holly and My Boy Rocky! We await your visit, and remember friends and family are always welcome! ;).


Interested in Becoming a Foster "Parent"?
Here's How the Foster Program Works
• You provide a temporary, loving home along with socialization, food, litter and other supplies.
• You choose the type of animal you would like to foster. We will help you pick the specific pet.
• You are invited to attend MCHS adoption events.
• MCHS pays for basic shots and for the foster's spay/neuter.
• MCHS will put your foster pet's photo and information on our website.
Foster homes are needed for all types of animals from dogs and cats to rabbits, guinea pigs, other small mammals, birds and reptiles.
If you have questions about the Foster Program, please call (240) 793-4201 or email email@example.com.
If you would like to become a foster volunteer, complete and submit the application. Someone from the Foster Program will contact you, and we will be with you every step of the way.
• We'll answer your questions.
• We'll offer advice.
• We'll give you encouragement.
Join us and find out how rewarding it is to be a foster "parent".