In our new MW Perspectives essay, Stephen Skelton MW explores the main challenges facing growers in Great Britain. Read an excerpt below, and find the whole thing in our MW Perspectives section.
Grapevines are not native to the British Isles, and there are no wild examples. It is claimed that the Romans introduced them, although the archaeological evidence for this is almost non-existent. After the Romans left around 400 CE, over six centuries passed before the next invaders, the Normans, landed near Hastings in 1066. We know with certainty that at this time, vineyards were planted, grapes harvested, and wine made, albeit in small quantities. However, despite these vineyards and several others that followed over the decades and centuries, none survived. Why? The climate. It was simply not warm enough to produce grapes that were sufficiently ripe, in terms of both natural sugar levels and acid levels, to make palatable wine consistently. In addition, yield levels were not high enough to make the establishment of a vineyard a commercial enterprise. Of course, the grape varieties available before the 1950s were only suitable for growing in the (much warmer) traditional winegrowing regions of the world, and without modern pesticides, growers found that keeping mildews and rots off their precious crops was an impossible task. Viticulture has now taken off in Great Britain, but significant challenges remain, tied to these initial struggles with climate.
The vine is a plant whose modus operandi of survival is to produce grapes sweet enough for birds and wild animals to put on the menu, thus spreading the seeds of future generations. In Britain, until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, neither the actual climate nor the social climate made wine production from home-grown grapes a commercially viable enterprise, despite numerous attempts. The last great experiment in viticulture—before the current revival—was by the Marquess of Bute at Castell Coch in South Wales, where between 1875 and 1920, the incredibly wealthy marquess planted (at maximum) a total of 13 acres of vines, with wine being made at Cardiff Castle. This experiment ended during the First World War, when sugar became unavailable. The marquess’s gardener, Mr. Pettigrew, said that in 45 years, the grapes only fully ripened in 7 years.
The modern revival began at the end of the Second World War, when one intrepid soul, Raymond Brock, attempting to grow non-native fruits that had stopped being imported during the war, set out to grow grapes for both the table and wine. Brock was a businessman running a firm of scientific instrument makers, and he set out to collect samples of grape varieties growing in Britain in gardens, in “vineries” (greenhouses), and against open walls. To supplement this collection, and once the war was over, Brock’s searches extended to the European mainland, where he gathered further varieties from German, French, and Swiss nurseries as well as from research establishments. He started publishing the results and by 1950 had identified two varieties he thought stood a chance of ripening in Britain: Müller-Thurgau (then known in its Swiss homeland as Riesling Sylvaner) and a French-American hybrid, Seyve Villard 5-276, now typically known as Seyval Blanc. It was these two varieties that formed the basis of most of the first few commercial vineyards to be planted in Britain. The first, Hambledon Vineyard in Hampshire, was planted in 1952 and by 1955 was harvesting its initial crop, the first English wine of the modern era. Within a few years, two more vineyards had been planted, and these three formed the testbed that persuaded others to follow.


Last week we found out just what was going on in the vineyards east of Toronto with Dan Sullivan of Rosehall Run. This week we head out west to just outside of Stratford, Perth County to speak with veritable polymath Antony John of Soiled Reputation fame about the organic bounty currently erupting from the dirt of his farm.
Antony and his wife Tina VandenHeuvel have been tilling the soils of their Soiled Reputation farm since 1995, and today their 80 acre property has 40 acres that are certified organic. Soiled Reputation harvest a plethora of gourmet greens and heirloom vegetables that take pride of place on many a menu card in Ontario’s very best restaurants.
Antony and I sat down on a deck overlooking his property where a group of 11 workers (and one of the farm’s many cats) laboured in the sunshine, harvesting a crop of beautiful haricots verts bound for the dinner tables of the most discerning…
Edinburgh-born/Toronto-based Sommelier, consultant, writer, judge and educator Jamie Drummond is the Director of Programs/Editor of Good Food Revolution… and he MUST remember that it is Antony John… and not Anthony Johns!


According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), our food and yard waste makes up 20 to 30 percent of what we throw away. Why does that matter? Because not only could all that waste still be put to good use, it's bleeding us dry: The United States now spends $218 billion producing, transporting, and discarding food that isn't eaten.
Enter composting, which is the practice of saving and gathering all that waste in one pile, making sure it gets the right amount of water and air in order to break down, and then using the resulting mixture to nourish and enrich soil. The benefits? Composting reduces the need for chemical fertilizers and pesticides, diverts waste from landfills, and lowers methane emissions.
"Any time you can go in the direction of zero-waste, you're on the right path because you're considering the environment.," says Pashon Murray, owner of Detroit Dirt, an organization that creates compost for businesses through a closed-loop system that keeps tons of food waste out of the landfills and regenerates that waste into soil and promotes healthy food growth. "I want people to connect back to the soil and the Earth."
Sounds good to us! Here's how to get started.
What Goes Into Compost?
Compost consists of two types of waste: food scraps or "green material," which can be vegetable or fruit waste and coffee grounds; and "brown material," which is usually leaves, branches, and weeds.
What You Can Compost
- Food scraps (fruit and vegetable peels)
- Egg shells
- Coffee grinds and filters
- Tea bags (remove staple)
- House plants
- Fresh grass clippings
- Old bread
- Shredded paper/cardboard
- Wood chips
- Straw and hay
What You Cannot Compost
- Meat, fish, poultry, bones
- Oils, lard, grease, fats
- Dairy (butter, milk, cheese)
- Diseased plants
- Cat and dog feces (may contain diseases)
- Non-biodegradable material
How to Compost If You Have a Back Yard:
1. Check the rules. Some states have rules and regulations when it comes to composting. "If people are participating in composting it's important to know what laws and policies are in place," Murray says. Look up composting laws by state here.
2. Determine the type you want and find a spot. Decide whether you want to have a loose compost pile or if you want to keep your compost in a bin or container. You can purchase a compost bin or container from your local hardware or garden supply store for anywhere between $20 and $100. You should also buy a pitchfork, shovel, and water hose. Select a dry, shady spot in your yard for your pile or your bin.
3. Start preparing. If you have a bin or container, line it with newspaper or cardboard to soak up liquids from your kitchen scraps. Before adding your brown waste material, chop and shred it into smaller pieces, which helps speed up decomposition. Make sure you also dampen the dry materials as you add them. "Your compost should be equivalent to a moist towel or sponge. Not dripping wet, but moist," Murray says.
4. Mix it up. Once your compost pile or bin is established, mix in the green material and bury the fruit and vegetable waste about 10 inches beneath the brown material, according to the EPA.
5. Take good care. You should turn and harvest your pile periodically. "Stirring and aerating encourages decomposition after months of monitoring," Murray says. "Manage the pile and make sure it's decomposing over a period of time so it will create nutrient soil. Depending on your climate, the soil should be ready in five to eight months."
How to Compost If You Don't Have a Back Yard:
1. Buy a bin. Just because you don't have a back yard doesn't mean you can't compost indoors. Find the appropriate space in your apartment to stash the special indoor bin, which you can purchase at your local hardware or gardening store.
2. Keep track. You can add the same type of waste to your bin as you would an outdoor compost pile. But make sure you keep track of what's going in and turn and stir it often. If your bin is properly managed, it shouldn't emit odors or attract pests.
3. Decide what to do with the soil. Depending on your city or town, you can have a company pick up your compost or you can bring it to a drop-off site. Visit your town's official website to see your options.


New Zealand: Declining land values could lead to more crop diversification
According to local grower Richard Harvey of Paeony, most growers have focused on grapes because they have been the only crop to offer returns on par with the high prices of land. However as prices fall in growing areas, especially in Marlborough, more growers will switch to crops such as apples, cherries, apricots and hazelnuts.
The grape industry has flourished, but the production, mostly destined for wine, has now outpaced demand, thus lowering returns for the industry as a whole. A diversification of planting would be positive for the grape and wine industry as well, New Zealand Winegrowers Chairman Stuart Smith was quoted as saying.
Moreover, the cost of diversification is lower due to existing irritation systems installed for grape production.
According to the report, the sale of a 23-hectare vineyard at a liquidation price of NZD 2 million (US$ 1.49 million) is emblematic of the industry shift. The property was valued at NZD 3.6 million in 2008.


Emerald Jewel BoxwoodBuxus sinica var. insularis Emerald Jewel
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Buxus sinica var. insularis Emerald Jewel
Outdoor Growing zone
Full Sun, Partial Sun
The Emerald Jewel Korean Boxwood is a tough and reliable variety for both cold and hot zones, staying compact and neat even if you don’t trim it. It forms rounded mounds of tiny leaves on dense branches, growing between 2 and 3 feet tall and round. Use it for accents or edging, or trim it into hedges, globes and low pyramids. The dark green leaves stay that way all year, without winter bronzing, and their small size is perfectly in scale with the compact nature of this variety. Enjoy boxwoods without the chore of trimming, and give your garden a great look. Also suitable for pots and planters in warmer zones.
Grow the ‘Emerald Jewel’ Boxwood in full sun or partial shade, and plant it in any well-drained soil. It grows in alkaline soils and sandy ones, with the densest growth and richest colors in richer soils that are not too dry. Established plants are drought resistant in ordinary dry summers, but do benefit from occasional watering. Feed with evergreen fertilizer in spring for 5-star results. Generally free of serious pest and disease problems, and untroubled by deer and rabbits. Trim in late winter or late spring, and again no later than early fall, if needed.
If you like your boxwoods a rich green, with small leaves and compact growth, then the Emerald Jewel Korean Boxwood is exactly what you want, and will love. The tiny ½ inch leaves are perfectly in scale with the small size of this plant, perfect for edging and accents in smaller spaces. Naturally forming a dense mound that needs no trimming, it is perfect for easy gardening, and stays green all year without bronzing. Of course you can also trim it, and it will respond by growing incredibly dense, giving you a perfect result. In warmer zones it can even be grown in pots, but it is in cold zones, where English boxwood will burn and often die, that this tougher Korean form really comes into its own. It will indeed soon become a jewel in your garden, sparkling rich green and simply perfect – everyone’s boxwood dream.
The Emerald Jewel Boxwood is a small evergreen shrub with a naturally mounding habit, growing between 2 and 3 feet tall and wide. It can be clipped in the traditional way, or left to grow naturally, when it will become a beautiful mound with a neat but slightly irregular outline. This modern way of growing boxwood is perfect for busy gardeners, and suits the more relaxed look of our modern gardens. The leaves are exceptionally small, generally no more than ½ inch long, with a leathery texture and a smooth, glossy surface. Rounded ovals, they are bright green when new, soon becoming a very rich, dark green. That color holds well through heat and cold, and doesn’t turn unattractive bronze tones in the winter months, even in cold zones. It rarely flowers, and the small, greenish-yellow blooms are insignificant, and often overlooked. Plants that are regularly trimmed almost never flower.
The Emerald Jewel Boxwood is perfect wherever you want that neat, rounded evergreen accent. The rich color always looks perfect, and the natural shape is balanced and even. Trimmed it makes very dense low hedges, globes and fat pyramids, and it also grows well in pots and planter boxes, which can be left outdoors all winter if you are in zone 7 or warmer. In colder zones tip your plants out of the pot without disturbing the roots, and plant temporarily in a garden bed.
Korean boxwood is renowned for its winter hardiness, and the Emerald Jewel Boxwood is no exception. It is absolutely reliable in zone 5, and will grow in zone 4 with little or no winter injury. For the best winter survival in zone 4, water deeply and mulch the root-zone just before the ground freezes. Spraying with anti-desiccant will give a literal ‘extra-layer’ of protection.
Grow the Emerald Jewel Boxwood in full sun or in areas with a few hours of shade each day. In the hottest zones some afternoon shade is beneficial. It will also grow with minimal direct sun, but the growth will be looser and more open. It does best in rich, well-drained soils that are regularly moist, but grows well in most well-drained garden soils just fine. Enriching the ground with organic material, and mulching over the root system every year or two will make a big difference to its growth. Established plants have moderate resistance to normal drought periods, but if you can water a little, do so.
Healthy plants rarely suffer from serious pest or disease problems. As well, deer and rabbits leave them alone, so you will have no issues growing this plant. Trimming young plants once a year for the first few years is worthwhile to develop a very dense internal structure, but not essential, and after that little or no trimming is needed, unless you want a super-formal look. Trim in late winter, before new growth develops, or in late spring, once the first flush of new leaves has darkened in color. You can also trim again after each flush of new growth, but don’t trim after early fall, and not at all then in cold zones. Always trim specimens or hedges wider at the bottom than the top, to keep leaves and branches right to the ground.
You might still see Korean Boxwood, Buxus sinica var. insularis, given its older name of Buxus microphylla var. koreana. Besides Korea, it can be found in China and Japan, and it is much better in typical American conditions than English boxwood. It is definitely best for both cold and hot zones, where it is much more resistant to damage. We don’t know much about the origin of the variety called Emerald Jewel . It made its first appearance in the 2018 catalog of Greenleaf Nursery Company, at their Park Hill, Oklahoma division.
If you want a dense, compact boxwood, with small leaves and a neat look that stays even without trimming, then the Emerald Jewel Boxwood is exactly what you want. Grow the neatest boxwood mounds and edging around, without spending hours trimming. Order now, as this relatively new variety is increasing in high demand, and soon sells out.


Box Tree Caterpillar Killer Nematodes 100m2
Our Box Tree Caterpillar Killer nematodes of the Steinernema Carpocapsea species are the most effective answer to this serious pest. The caterpillars will strip the leaves and even bore into the bark of the plants damaging and even killing the plant.
Box tree caterpillars are quite distinctive with blacks stripes and white dots on a green caterpillar. Nematodes are a natural pest control safe for pets and children.
The first step in protecting your plants is to place out Box Tree Caterpillar moth traps to catch and monitor the male moths, the caterpillars will come a few weeks later.
Apply as soon as soon as small caterpillars are observed, ideally be applied in the evenings to minimise the influence of UV light. Spray the plants from bottom to top, making sure the middle of the plant also gets wet, apply plenty of solution onto the leaves and directly onto caterpillars where possible, at least 250-500 mil of nematode solution per square metre. Apply a second application 7 days after the first one, this is to catch any caterpillars not hit during the first application and any new small caterpillars hatched from fresh egg laying.
Box Tree Caterpillar nematodes should be applied with sprayers, including Knapsack or hand held sprayers , removing any filters in them .
PLEASE NOTE - As these are live creatures, they are bred in batches to be as fresh as possible and so your nematodes will be prepared to order and despatched in approx 5 working days depending on demand.
Storage of Nematodes
If you cannot apply immediately, store in the fridge (4 degrees Celsius) and use as soon as possible. Do not freeze. Use before the best by date.
Do not apply in bright sunshine as nematodes are UV sensitive (evening is ideal).
Application for 100 Square Metre Nematodes Pack
100m2 pack contains 2 sachets of 25 million nematodes. Each 25 million pack treats 35-50m2.
Make sure to stir the bucket before taking out each 0.5 litre concentrate.
Is it easy to apply your Nematodes?
All you need to do is mix the Nematode pack with water and apply to your shrub. Each pack is supplied with easy to follow instructions and all you need is a watering can with a large rose which will allow the Nematode mix to flow.
When is the right time to treat the caterpillar infestation with nematodes?
As soon as you can visibly see the caterpillars is the best time to apply. Nematodes work on contact so getting right into the area with a sprayer directly onto the caterpillars when they are small is the best solution.
Winter caterpillars tend to be larger and harder to treat than 1st generation caterpillars which are a lot smaller. Extra treatments with nematodes may be required if there is a particularly large infestation.
Why are the caterpillars making my box hedge turning yellow?
Caterpillar infestation is unlikely to turn a hedge yellow, however, a large infestation can cause some die back, so if your hedge is turning yellow this is more likely to be another issue, possibly Blight, which is spread by fungal spores.


Snopeas have pale green pods and contain petite, flattened peas. Pods are wide and flat, measuring approximately two to three inches in length. Together with sugarsnap peas, they are botanically known as Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon.
Members of the Fabaceae family these peas are known for their tender edible seed pods. Botanically snow peas are a fruit but they are utilized today in the culinary world as a vegetable.
Both the peas and pod are edible and have a sweet pea flavor and tender crispy texture. The peas grow from white or purple flowers and at their young stage both the leaves and flowers of the plant are edible too. Snow peas are rich in protein, carbohydrates, dietary fiber, vitamin C and K, potassium, magnesium and iron. Snow peas are also higher in vitamin C compared


We had perfect weather this weekend, so we spent a lot of time outside. Devin got a mini bike for his birthday (he turned 11 in March!), and it has been getting a lot of use lately!
They've made courses around the yard, and they time each other to see who is fastest. The bike is pretty weak, so even downhill it doesn't go too fast.
David loves to show off his fancy trick riding. One of the kids' favorite things to do is chase David around while he rides the bike around the yard.
I finally got out in the garden this weekend. I got my onion sets planted (white, yellow, red, and Stuttgarter), along with cabbage and broccoli.
Devin mentioned wanting to save a peach pit so he could grow a peach tree. I suggested it might be much faster to just buy a peach tree....so we went to Lowe's and he picked out his peach tree. Now it's waiting to be planted.
Kylee wanted to buy an apple tree, but since the apples needed a second variety for pollenation (and we haven't dedicated a space to a small orchard yet), she bought 2 blueberry bushes. She helped plant and water them, and I gave both her and Devin a book where they can read about what peaches and blueberries need to grow.
She and Devin also picked out some herbs they wanted to grow. Kylee loved the lemon balm, and Devin loved the mint.
I know I'll sleep well tonight after all the work we've done this weekend!


Scientific Program> Satellite MeetingsAdvanced approaches for resistance improvement to mycotoxigenic fungi in relevant species: diagnosis and infection control
WP1 activities of the year 2012
Open Session for presentation and discussion of the results obtained during the first year of project
Elisabetta Lupotto, Consiglio per la Ricerca e la sperimentazione in Agricoltura (CRA), Rome, Italy
Michele Marcotte, Agriculture and AgriFood Canada, Ottawa, Canada
Research on the detection and contrast to the development of mycotoxigenic fungi and derived mycotoxins in cereal crops represents a major priority in a wider context of international scientific cooperation between Italy and Canada. The Italian CRA is actually carrying on a bilateral project of research with two Canadian research centres: the ECORC – Eastern Cereal and Oilseed Crops Research Centre in Ottawa and the Guelph Food Research Centre, Guelph, Ontario. The project CANADAIR is a project funded to CRA by the Italian Ministry for Agriculture, Food and Forestry Policies, for a 24 months period (2012-2013). The project includes research activities referring to three scientific areas of interest: a) food safety; b) dairy products; c) agroenergies.
Research on mycotoxigenic fungi, presence and contrast to, in maize and wheats, represent the activities of Workpackage 1. The twinned research lines carried on in bilateral collaboration are: WP1-1: twinned research activities on the identification and exploitation of resistance genes to protect wheats against Fusarium Head Blight, a mycotoxigenic complex; WP1-2: twinned research activities on genomic and genetic approaches devoted to study the maize response to the mycotoxigenic fungus F. verticillioides and F.graminearum in order to increase plant resistance and to reduce mycotoxin contamination in derived products; WP1-3: the study of bioagents for the control of mycotoxin accumulation in grains and on microbial detoxifications of mycotoxins in food and feed.
31 May 2013 - h. 15.00 – Park Hotel S. Michele, Meeting Room
The INNOFOOD SEE info-day aims at highlight the potential proposed by food innovation to consumers, food SMEs, RTD entities and stakeholders. CNR ISPA is partner in the INNOFOOD SEE project, that will allow setting up the innovation support mechanisms and increasing awareness on the potential of Food Innovation and RTD in the South East Europe area. Funding opportunities and policies for RTD cooperation at European and national level will be presented and discussed together with running projects to strengthen innovation and research in the agrifood sector.
The 5th MycoRed General Assembly will focus on results and achievements of 4 years of integrated international research on mycotoxins in the framework of the project.
27 May 2013 - h. 15.00 – 16.30 Park Hotel S. Michele, Meeting Room
The MycoRed General Executive Committee will focus on results of integrated international research on mycotoxins.


Ah, the magic of coffee processing! Have you ever wondered how those little beans you love so much end up in your cup? Well, let me take you on a journey through the fascinating process that turns coffee cherries into the delicious brew we deliver each week and we all love.
First things first, the coffee cherries are carefully hand-picked from the trees. Just like how a chef only wants the freshest ingredients for their dish, only the ripest cherries are selected for processing. Once the cherries are harvested, the real magic begins.
Now, here's where things get interesting - there are two main ways to process coffee: washing and natural sun-drying. Washed coffee, also known as "wet process", involves removing the fruit from the seed as soon as possible after picking, before the drying process begins. The cherries are floated in water and sorted to ensure consistent ripeness levels. Then, they are run through special machines called depulpers, which squeeze the fruit and pop out the seeds. The seeds then go through a fermentation process to remove any remaining sugar and fruit remnants. Finally, they are washed again and dried on patios or raised beds. This method is known for producing clean and crisp flavours.
On the other hand, we have the natural sun-dried method, also known as the natural process or dry process. This method involves drying the coffee cherries whole without the intervention of water or machines to remove any of the fruit. The cherries are picked, floated in water, and sorted to remove any under-ripe or overripe fruit. They are then laid out on patios or raised beds to dry in the sun and air, with the fruit still on them. This process can take up to six weeks, but the result is worth it - natural sun-dried coffee is known for its fruity and complex flavours. Our Family Estate Pacamara is a Natural Process and we have it as coffee of the month.
So, whether you prefer your coffee with clean and crisp flavours or fruity and complex ones, both methods are equally important and delicious. But, the journey doesn't end here, once the cherries are dried, they are sent to a mill for hulling (separation of the seed from the rest of the dried fruit) and dry milling (removal of the seed’s skin). Voila! the beans are ready to be roasted, ground, brewed by baristas, and finally enjoyed by caffeine-starved humans.
As you can see, coffee processing is a delicate and intricate process that requires a lot of care and attention to detail. Next time you take a sip of your coffee, remember all the hard work and love that went into every bean.
Cheers to that!


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Tag Archives: Apples
Tom Putt is a dual or triple purpose varietal: an eater, a cooker and a cider apple. It’s a traditional Devon variety classified as a mild sharp and produces a clean, thin, dry cider that improves over time but can … Continue reading
The almost perfect cider apple Is just one type of apple enough to give your cider the necessary complexity and balance of sweetness, acidity, tannin and aromatics? Quite possibly, if it’s a Kingston Black.


Set across the river from the kingdom’s capital, Phnom Penh, this purpose-built foster home cares for up to 36 abandoned children who would have otherwise have been forgotten. Without the intervention of an organization like Little Hearts, these children have a bleak future placing them at risk of malnutrition, exploitation and abuse, severe poverty and at worse, an early death.
The Belgium-operated organization brings happiness into the little hearts of the children they care for be providing a clean safe and loving home as well as access to quality education which is a right that every child deserves despite their socioeconomic background for a chance at a brighter future
Koya project was both touched and impressed by this professionally-run and dedicated establishment, feeling that they were the perfect candidate for an aquaponics system.
The project consists of a fish tank constructed below ground level to keep the fish nice and cool. There is also a vertical garden for leafy green vegetables and 3 media beds which are already yielding bumper crops of the children’s favourites which include ‘morning glory’.
The system is currently in transition to phase 2, which involves the installation of a filtration system, re-configuration of the DWC beds and wicking beds to become even more productive and the installation of UV protecting cover.
Project: Little Hearts Organisation
Location: Areyksat, Cambodia
Project design and Construction: Khmer aquaponics
Site dimensions: 14m x 8m
Fish tank capacity: 5,000 litres
Stocking density: 2kg per 100 litres
Fish harvest weight: 800 grams
Expected fish harvest: 250 kilograms per year
Total vegetable growing area: 26m2
Media bed growing area: 18m2
Media bed planting density: 6 plants/m2
Media bed plants: 110
DWC growing area: 6m2
DWC planting density: 35 plants/m2
DWC plants: 210 plants
Wicking bed growing area: 2m2
Wicking bed density and number of plants: varies


Little Giant 1 Gallon Screw-On Poultry Waterer Base
Little Giant 1 Gallon Screw-On Poultry Waterer Base is used with the Chicken Waterer Jar (sold separately) to give your backyard chickens easy access to a full gallon of clean, fresh water. The waterer is simple to clean and fill. You can buy this base alone as a replacement if you already have the top.
- Top is also available at Mary's Tack
- 1 gallon capacity
- Great for poultry including chickens, hens, ducks & geese


Hazel is a creative plant scientist & food industry consultant, with 30 years’ experience, especially in innovation, natural flavours and fragrances, colours and bio-actives. A food scientist and technologist, Hazel is actively involved in food innovation throughout the value chain, from primary producers through to consumers. Projects relate to new ingredients, new products and processes, new packaging, product positioning and consumer communications. Hazel’s work has a strong science core, fleshed out with commercial experience and flavoured with a passion for effective communication - for concepts, products and people.
Hazel is a well- regarded, experienced consultant and presenter with an excellent profile within the national vegetable and wider horticultural industry. In Australia, Hazel works with primary producers, food manufacturers, retailers and consumers, to create tasty, practical and on-trend new food products.
Recently completed projects are diverse: flavours for dried cheese snacks and gin, converting oysters into sauce and potatoes into potato salad and vodka.
A key focus is greater use of fruit and vegetables as healthy and functional ingredients in a diverse range of food products. Hazel and her team, an arsenal of global food experts, provide food innovation training to the Australian food industry, especially the vegetable sector and regional agri-food producers.
Recent projects include:


Drive through East Texas along our many country roads and you’ll likely encounter farmers and ranchers raising cattle and cultivating crops.
While much of the region’s agricultural land is devoted to grazing pastures and hay, some area farmers are shaking things up with uncommon crops, new growing methods and youthful energy.
The Tyler Loop visited three unique East Texas farms to see what makes them stand out among the crowd.
Crafton Family Fungus Farm
Most farms need acreage and quality soil to thrive, and when the weather gets bad, farmers have to adjust. That isn’t the case for Coast Guard veteran Jerrimia Crafton and wife Jessica, owners of the Crafton Family Fungus Farm in Tyler.
Even though “farm” is in the name, the Craftons have no pastoral scene with rows of crops or roaming livestock. Instead, Jerrimia Crafton grows mushrooms in a bedroom of his South Tyler home.
What started out as a hobbyist side project is becoming a full-time operation for the former food service workers fresh to East Texas by way of Bakersfield, California.
“I didn’t plan on doing this,” Jerrimia Crafton said. “I bought Jessica a little ‘Grow Your Own Mushrooms’ kit from Home Depot because she likes mushrooms so much. In four days, we had a half pound of mushrooms. I thought, ‘Oh, this is quick and easy.’”
The Crafton’s former home in Bakersfield spoiled them with widely available culinary mushrooms beyond portobello or button mushrooms found at most grocery stores. Now, they want to bring those specialty varieties here.
The couple can grow dozens of pounds of mushrooms in a matter of weeks, in hopes of supplying East Texas restaurants and farmers’ markets with a dazzling array of edible fungi.
The mushrooms start out as microscopic spores suspended in a sugary jelly, which Jerrimia Crafton spawns in sealed bags filled with a growth medium. Once the spores take over the bag, he transplants them inside a “fruiting chamber” resembling a closet-sized greenhouse — only this one is cool and foggy.
“Because I work inside, I control the conditions,” Jerrimia Crafton said. “I don’t rely on temperature, I don’t rely on seasons, weather conditions, even time of day.”
The result is a crop of mushrooms that go beyond simple salad toppers in flavor and texture.
When cooked properly, the Crafton’s lion’s mane mushrooms can taste more like crab legs than fungi, while their rose-colored clumps of pink oyster mushrooms parallel the rich flavors of pork bacon.
“In California, there’s plenty of vegan restaurants,” Jessica Crafton said. “Almost every [meat] is replaced with the portabella or some sort of mushroom. We’ve seen videos where people have done everything from making bacon-like dishes to a pulled pork kind of thing.”
However, the couple will assure customers their mission is not to convert Texans to veganism. The Craftons hope to deliver fresh ingredients and ideas to local restaurants who otherwise would not have access to gourmet mushrooms.
“The goal is to go local,” Jerrimia Crafton said. “… Anything restaurants are doing now with mushrooms, ours will just make it better. It’s a different option that’s a cut above.”
We think of farms as places for creating new growth, but sometimes the crops for the food supply deplete soil quality faster than farmers can replenish it.
When the soil loses nutrients vital for plant growth, farmers have to bring them in from outside sources like fertilizers, costing them time and money.
At Ornan Farms in Hawkins, farmer Shay Eddy — an alias used at their request — has created a system to do the exact opposite. They foster healthy soil development through an agricultural practice called permaculture.
You won’t find all of Ornan’s crops growing in rows. Instead, each plant thrives off relationships with nearby organisms intentionally planted for maximum benefit to the plants and soil.
“What we’re doing out here is bringing in support species,” Eddy said. “So for every fruit tree, you’ve got several of these support trees that pull nitrogen out of the air, and then you’ll chop them down and it’ll create more mulch and more soil.”
The soil-boosting partnerships created by Ornan’s plants mean Eddy rarely needs to use fertilizers or even pesticides for healthy growth. With the right mix of mulch, farm-made compost and flowers to attract pollinators and nitrogen-fixing plants, Ornan can sustain a “food forest” full of a diverse mix of edible plants.
Eddy considers spreading permaculture tactics a high priority, which is why Ornan farms will eventually use onsite facilities for training visitors on their methods and philosophy.
“In the Bible, God grabbed up the soil, and he formed man from the soil,” Eddy said. “So it’s like an illustration that your life comes from the soil. You better take care of it… We’re destroying and losing so much topsoil every year.”
Most of the food grown at Ornan Farms doesn’t actually make it to farmers’ markets or retail locations, but rather the family table. Their main cash crop is flower arrangements full of zinnias, sunflowers, dahlias, gladiolas and more.
Multiple money-saving tactics helps Ornan Farms keep growing despite its small retail footprint. Eddy maintains a solar array for power and dries clothes outside. Their system of native plants and terraced landscapes keeps the soil lush with groundwater, so Ornan spends less on irrigation.
Just like the roots of old trees in Ornan’s forested acres, the permaculture mindset runs deep within everything on the farm. But all people need to practice self sufficiency on their own, Eddy said, is a garden.
“People used to have gardens. Around the turn of the 19th century, everybody had a garden. Now you’ve got people going to Lowe’s and buying ornamental bushes, and then they’re paying someone to trim them instead of allowing their leaves to fall down and decompose and create natural soil.
“Instead of growing these bushes, they need to grow tomatoes,” said Eddy.
Tyler Berry Farm
Ask someone to picture a farmer. They may describe an older person with a seasoned career in agriculture. The stereotype has some basis in truth, as the average age of an American farm owner is 59, according to data collected by the US Department of Agriculture in 2017.
Marshal and Addie Wiggins of the Tyler Berry Farm are bucking this trend by taking the reins of their family’s land, both at age 24.
Even though the berry farm and a nearby Christmas tree farm have stayed within Marshal Wiggins’ family for generations, the newly minted farmer said he hadn’t grown anything until starting a pea garden around a year ago.
“(The Lord) told me to eat from the earth for 30 days — no exercise, just fruits and vegetables. I lost around 45 pounds. That inspired me to grow a garden.”
Marshal Wiggins’ first pea garden turned into a full-scale adoption of his grandfather’s original berry bushes, planted at the farm in the 1980s. The bushes still produce fruit each April to June, and the Wiggins’ will let visitors pick berries themselves or buy berries pre-picked.
The couple also cultivate strawberries, peas, peaches and a more unorthodox product: the farming lifestyle.
The Tyler Berry Farm Facebook page, run by Addie Wiggins, documents the couple’s headfirst journey into their new lives, allowing followers to keep up with their successes while missing out on the hard work of farm labor.
Addie said the couple also incorporates “cute,” Instagram-worthy products and moments into their farm tours, like selling photogenic strawberry lemonade drinks or providing photo opportunities at the farm’s scenic pastures.
Developing a romanticized farming aesthetic has helped the Wiggins’ draw in more attention from young people looking for a fun weekend escape without facing the real pressures of farm work.
“[Social media] doesn’t see the full picture,” Addie Wiggins said. “They see what we post online, they see this cute little farm family or a little homestead page, and people enjoy that stuff. But they don’t see the day-to-day work. It’s not just cute Facebook posts.”
The berry farm lost an estimated 80% of their expected blueberry yield due to the harsh conditions of February’s winter storm. The decades-old bushes made it through to fruit again next season. Meanwhile, Marshal Wiggins is planning to diversify the farm’s output and grow their retail footprint to include local farmers’ markets.
“We’re trying to bring the community out here with things like a firework show or a pumpkin patch,” Addie Wiggins said. “Families can come out and ride the hay rides, enjoy some apple cider and some popcorn. Just bring in things for them to do.”
It may sound like hard work reshaping a farm with little experience within a matter of months, but Marshal Wiggins called the past year at the farm one of the happiest of his life.
“You’re literally doing what man was put here to do,” he said. “We are supposed to sow seeds. All I do is put a seed in the ground. God grows the rest of it.”
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead or lead compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information regarding Prop 65, visit www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
When insect pests call for full-scale response, you need a straightforward solution you can trust. Our easy-to-use measuring cap makes it simple to get just the right amount of concentrate for the job. Measure the product using the label application rate of 4 fluid ounces of concentrate per gallon of water. Pour the measured concentrate into your sprayer, add the appropriate amount of water, and mix well. Sevin Insect Killer Concentrate kills more than 500 insect pests by contact and keeps protecting for up to three months. Kill and control unwanted insects in ornamental and edible gardens, lawns and other areas around your home.


Growing mushrooms at home is a delightful and sustainable hobby that rewards you with the savory goodness of freshly harvested fungi. Among the various methods available, using buckets with holes stands out for its simplicity and efficiency. Follow this step-by-step guide to embark on your own mushroom-growing adventure, enjoying multiple harvests from the comfort of your home.
- Large pot for boiling
- Mushroom seeds (spawn)
- Plastic buckets with holes
- Clean cloth or lid for covering the buckets
- Watering can or spray bottle
- A cool, dark place for incubation
Step 1: Preparing the Straw
Start by gathering a suitable amount of straw. Wheat or oat straw is ideal for mushroom cultivation. Chop the straw into pieces approximately 2-4 inches in length.
Step 2: Boiling the Straw
Place the chopped straw into a large pot and cover it with water. Bring the water to a boil and let it simmer to sterilize the straw. Once boiled, allow the straw to cool down to room temperature.
Step 3: Acquiring Mushroom Seeds
Purchase mushroom seeds, known as mushroom spawn, from a reliable supplier. Various mushroom species like oyster, shiitake, or white button mushrooms are available to suit your preferences.
Step 4: Layering Straw and Mushroom Seeds
Take a plastic bucket with holes and begin layering. Start with a layer of cooled, boiled straw at the bottom. Spread mushroom seeds evenly on the straw. Repeat this layering process until the bucket is nearly full, finishing with a top layer of straw. Ensure even distribution for optimal mushroom growth.
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Weather Adversely Effects No-Till Farms in South Dakota
What a difference one rainy, spring season can make. While central South Dakota farmers typically battle drought and erosion, this year their adversary was excessive rain and the resulting muddy fields that delayed and, in some cases, prevented planting.
Last spring when DTN visited South Dakota farmer David Gillen, the future seemed bright. Gillen — who farms near White Lake, S.D. — has worked hard since 1991 on his innovative and cutting-edge no-till practices, which have served him well. He has improved the dusty, erosion-prone soil on his land so much that he nearly doubled his yields during that time.
This year’s harvest, however, took on a shadow of gloom as last spring’s rains severely diminished harvest and the yields Gillen typically has reaped from his hard work.
Gillen has maintained a rotation of one-third corn, one-third beans and one-third wheat for 17 years. While some farmers increased their corn acreage to take advantage of record-breaking corn prices, Gillen believed improving the integrity of the soil for future generations would reap greater benefits than following the whims of the market.
But despite his successful no-till practices, Mother Nature interrupted what could have been another record-breaking season.
A year ago, the White Lake area received a whopping 14 inches of rain during the fall, Gillen said. But the trouble began in earnest when 8 more inches were received during the planting season.
The ground remained wet for so long that planting was delayed and the crops that farmers were able to plant were severely stressed because of the rain.
Some planting was critically delayed, as Gillen reported he was unable to plant corn until the third week in May. By the time some fields were dried sufficiently for planting, it was too late.
“Conditions were so wet,” Gillen said, “that half my bean and corn acres never got planted.”
Other area farmers suffered the same fate, he related, as many others failed to get all their fields planted as well.
In the fields Gillen was able to plant, wheat and beans resulted in average yields, while corn was slightly above average — around 110 bushels per acre, he said.
As part of his no-till practices, Gillen typically plants cover crops after harvest, which provide a number of benefits. Crops such as winter canola, Indian head lentils, radishes and turnips provide a dense canopy which retains moisture and allows for better air movement in the soil. The cover crops increase the microbial activity in the soil, which breaks down residue and scavenges leftover nitrogen for the following year’s corn crop. This practice also decreases the need for weed control and fertilizer.
This year Gillen planted those crops on wheat stubble, and planted wheat on bean acres after harvest. One bit of good news is the winter wheat looks strong and appears to have a good start going into winter.
Despite the rains, Gillen said he was happy with his planting choices; it was merely the rain that made those choices less profitable this season. And even with the extreme precipitation received, Gillen said he is not yet ready to give up on his no-till practices.
“You can’t change your practices because of one extreme year,” he said.
And despite this year’s losses, Gillen remains hopeful that he can continue to improve the quality of his land and that his no-till practices will continue to reap benefits.
“With the current trend yields for South Dakota, I would assume that the no-till practices will continue to increase yields,” he said.
The only practice Gillen said he may change is the cover crops, which have been an experimental practice. He said he may consider baling off the straw after the wheat, although he would still refrain from tilling the remaining stubble.
“As you get into extreme, unprofitable times, selling the straw and not going to the expense of planting a cover crop is advantageous to short-term cash,” he said.
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What is Smartsoil?
Our vision, mission and company ethos
At the heart of Smartsoil lies a passion to educate farmers and consumers of the integral role soil biology plays in creating resilient, integrated agricultural systems that work with nature to provide superior quality food, forage & fibre.
Filling multiple gaps in a blossoming green sector, Smartsoil creates high quality, independent media & education products built around key areas of importance within the Regenerative/Biological Agriculture industry. The key aim of this content is to create both consumer awareness & confidence through education + exposure to these types of farming methods and the benefits that come with it.
Once the story of food gains market popularity they foresee this seeding a market demand for verifiable natural produce, creating a catalyst that gives rise to a new wave of ecosystem conscious farmers. The suite of Online education products is there to educate this next wave of regenerative land managers, and to support them through their transition.
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Our online education courses give farmers and land managers a fantastic opportunity to be introduced to new and innovative farming practices that enhance the innate natural functions within their landscapes.
Smartsoil courses are delivered via the online learning management system and classes are taught by Incredible farmers who walk the walk and have proven that their farming methods work.
The aim of these courses is to empower farmers with new information while showing them real life working examples of regenerative methods in action. Each course is carefully designed to ensure learning
outcomes translate into positive actions on-farm, while providing the support necessary to make it through the transition and beyond.
On the other-side of ecosystem restoration lies many benefits, these include, but are not limited to: Greater profitability for producers, Positive development of natural capital assets, Access to Carbon farming markets, Greater farm resilience.
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Jack started his entrepreneurial journey at 21, after spending time helping his brother, Smartsoil Co-Founder David Lewis, build his first business’s and delve into the world of microbiology, he was inspired to help create something truly regenerative. Jack is the director of media within the company where his role is to create, capture and publish premium quality digital content.
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Dr Irving has over thirty years’ educational experience across all sectors with strengths in innovative learning design and development for online contexts. She works in higher education and runs a consultancy helping institutions maintain quality learning and teaching when moving to online environments. She grew up in Busselton and is enthusiastic about giving back to the area by applying her skills and knowledge to support the education of sustainable farming practice.
Colin Seis owns and runs a 2000 acre grain, sheep and kelpie enterprise in Gulgong, mid-western New South Wales which is all Pasture Cropped. Colin is the developer of this technique and has partnered with Smartsoil EDU to deliver a comprehensive Pasture Cropping online course. There are now estimated to be over 3 million acres around the world “Pasture Cropped” with Colin already on-boarding over 2000 farmers in Australia who are now known to be using these techniques successfully.
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Regenerative Agriculture has continually proven to not only be as profitable as conventional agriculture, but also more resilient during tough times. With the current state of affairs on the planet, Regenerative Agriculture can lead the way forward.


|Strickland, Timothy - Tim|
Submitted to: Journal of Soil and Water Conservation Society
Publication Type: Abstract Only
Publication Acceptance Date: 2/1/2007
Publication Date: 7/21/2007
Citation: Hubbard, R.K., Strickland, T.C., Phatak, S.C., Scholberg 2007. Effects of Cover Crop Systems on Soil Physical Properties and Carbon/Nitrogen Sequestration in Coastal Plain Soils Under Conservation Tillage [abstract]. Journal of Soil and Water Conservation Society July 21-25, 2007, Tampa, Florida. Interpretive Summary:
Technical Abstract: Conservation practices are needed to prevent erosion and preserve soil and water quality. Conservation tillage has been found to be an effective environmental practice. Uncertainty exists concerning the impact of cover crops with conservation tillage on the total agricultural environment. A study conducted from 2002 – 2005 by the University of Georgia, University of Florida, and USDA-ARS, assessed the effects of cover crops on soil physical properties and C/N sequestration in coastal plain soils. The cropping systems were (1) sunnhemp (Crotalaria juncea L.), crimson clover (Trifolium incarnatum L.), sweet corn (Zea mays L.); (2) sunnhemp, fallow, sweet corn; (3) fallow, crimson clover, sweet corn; (4) fallow, fallow, sweet corn; or (5) fallow, fallow, fallow. Soil physical property measurements were made on minimally disturbed cores collected from the top 7.6 cm of soil of each plot three times annually using an impact type sampler. Physical property measurements included bulk density (BD), saturated hydraulic conductivity (HC), and soil moisture retention (MR). Microbial biomass carbon, available carbon, soil nitrogen and soil carbon were determined from samples of the top 2.5 cm of soil collected quarterly. Results showed cover crop differences in soil physical properties and C/N sequestration. Rotations with sunnhemp as crop one had lower BD, greater HC, and greater total C and N than the other cropping systems. Inclusion of sunnhemp, which produces large quantities of biomass, as a cover crop in rotations on coastal plain soils benefited the soil by increasing hydraulic conductivity (greater water infiltration at the surface and less runoff), decreasing bulk density, and increasing C/N sequestration. The study showed the significant effects that cover crop type in agricultural systems has on organic matter accumulation including positive effects on soil physical properties important to crop production. Results from this and similar small-scale studies will be used to establish appropriate ranges for model parameter calibrations when comparing conservation to conventional farming practices.


Rubber trees are popular houseplants known for their large, glossy leaves and their ability to purify the air. If you want to encourage new growth and promote a bushier appearance, you can learn how to care for your burgundy rubber plant. Side shoots refer to the new growth that sprouts from the main stem or branches of the plant. In this article, we will discuss the importance of side shoots for rubber tree care and explore different methods to force their growth. We will provide a step-by-step guide on how to force side shoots on a rubber tree and discuss common mistakes to avoid. We will address troubleshooting common problems that may arise during the process. So, if you want to expand your rubber tree’s foliage and create a fuller, more lush plant, keep reading.
What are Side Shoots on a Rubber Tree?
Side shoots on a rubber tree are new growth that appears along the main stem or branches. These shoots, also known as lateral buds or axillary buds, emerge from nodes, which are points on the stem where leaves or branches develop. Side shoots are an essential aspect of the rubber tree’s growth and development. They contribute to the plant’s overall size and shape, playing a crucial role in its branching pattern. Additionally, these side shoots have the potential to be utilized for propagation, as they can be cut and used to grow new rubber tree plants. Typically green in color, these shoots are characterized by the presence of latent or active buds, signifying the possibility of leaves, flowers, or new branches. Consequently, side shoots are a natural and vital part of the rubber tree’s growth cycle.
Why are Side Shoots important for Rubber Tree Care?
Side shoots are essential for rubber tree care as they play a pivotal role in the growth and development of the tree. Firstly, side shoots contribute significantly to the overall productivity of the rubber tree plantation. They serve as vital points for tapping latex, which is the primary source of natural rubber. Without side shoots, the production of latex would be substantially reduced.
Secondly, side shoots facilitate the rejuvenation and revitalization of the rubber tree. They help in maintaining a healthy and balanced structure of the tree by redirecting energy and nutrients towards new growth. This contributes to the overall health and longevity of the rubber tree, ensuring a consistent production of latex.
Furthermore, side shoots promote the formation of a dense and sturdy canopy. This canopy provides shade and protection to the tree, shielding it from excessive sunlight and adverse weather conditions. The canopy also helps in regulating temperature and humidity levels around the tree, creating a favorable environment for purple heart plant care and growth.
In addition to these benefits, side shoots serve as a backup in case of any damage or disease to the primary stem of the rubber tree. If the main stem is affected, the side shoots can continue to grow and develop, ensuring the survival of the rubber tree.
Methods to Force Side Shoots on a Rubber Tree
Want to learn how to make your rubber tree flourish with vibrant side shoots? Look no further! In this section, we’ll explore various methods and techniques to force side shoots on a rubber tree. From pruning techniques to grafting and air layering, we’ll cover the tried and tested ways that plant enthusiasts have used to encourage lateral growth. Get ready to dive into the fascinating world of rubber tree propagation and watch your plant thrive with new branches!
1. Pruning Techniques for Side Shoots
When it comes to pruning techniques for side shoots on a rubber tree, there are several important steps to follow:
To force side shoots on a rubber tree, there are several steps to follow:
Step 1: Assessing the Rubber Tree – Before beginning the pruning process, carefully examine the rubber tree to identify any side shoots that need to be removed or maintained.
Step 2: Preparing the Tools and Equipment – Gather the necessary tools for pruning, such as pruning shears or a saw, and ensure they are clean and sharp for effective cutting.
Step 3: Determining the Correct Pruning Method – Depending on the specific needs of the rubber tree, choose the appropriate pruning method. This may involve removing unwanted side shoots entirely or pruning them selectively to promote growth in desired areas.
Step 4: Pruning the Side Shoots – Carefully prune the identified side shoots, making clean cuts just above the main branch or trunk. Ensure the angle of the cut promotes healing and prevents water accumulation. For more information on how to prune a rubber plant, you can check out this guide on how to prune rubber plant.
Step 5: Providing Post-Pruning Care and Maintenance – After pruning, monitor the rubber tree for any signs of stress or disease. Provide proper care, including watering, fertilizing, and protecting the tree from harsh weather conditions.
For more information on how much water a rubber plant needs, you can visit this guide.
True story: A gardener in a rubber tree plantation discovered that by following a regular pruning schedule and using proper techniques, the rubber trees experienced increased productivity and overall health. By selectively removing side shoots and maintaining a well-balanced canopy structure, the trees were able to efficiently utilize resources and produce higher quality rubber latex. This success story highlights the importance of implementing effective pruning techniques for the optimal growth and development of rubber trees.
2. Grafting Techniques for Side Shoots
Grafting Techniques for Side Shoots
- Step 1: To force side shoots on a rubber tree using grafting, begin by preparing both the rubber tree rootstock and the scion. It is crucial to ensure that both are healthy and free from any diseases.
- Step 2: Make identical diagonal cuts on both the rootstock and scion, guaranteeing that the shape and size of the cuts match.
- Step 3: Align the cambium layers of both the rootstock and scion by carefully placing the scion onto the rootstock.
- Step 4: For a secure graft union, use a rubber band or grafting tape. Ensure that it is tight enough to hold the graft together but not overly tight to obstruct proper growth.
- Step 5: To prevent the graft union from drying out, apply grafting wax or a sealant.
- Step 6: Proper care and maintenance are essential for the grafted tree. This includes regular watering and protection from extreme temperatures.
Utilizing grafting techniques for side shoots is an effective method to propagate rubber trees and stimulate the growth of new branches. It is crucial to follow these steps diligently in order to achieve successful grafting and promote healthy tree growth.
3. Air Layering Techniques for Side Shoots
When promoting the growth of side shoots on a rubber tree, air layering is an effective technique. To successfully perform air layering, follow these steps:
- Identify a healthy branch on the rubber tree where you want the side shoot to grow.
- Make a horizontal cut around the branch, about one-third of the way through the branch. Ensure the cut is clean and smooth.
- Apply a rooting hormone to the cut portion of the branch. This will stimulate root growth.
- Wrap a moist sphagnum moss or peat moss around the cut area. Secure it in place with a plastic or cloth wrap.
- Keep the moss consistently moist by spraying it with water regularly.
- Monitor the progress of the baby rubber plant propagation by checking for roots. Once roots have formed, you can remove the side shoot from the main tree.
- Plant the side shoot in a separate pot or suitable growing medium, ensuring that the roots are covered and supported.
Pro-tip: To achieve successful air layering techniques for side shoots, it is best done during the growing season when the rubber tree is actively producing new growth. Regularly check the moisture levels of the moss and provide appropriate care to the newly formed side shoot to encourage healthy growth.
Step-by-Step Guide to Force Side Shoots on a Rubber Tree
Photo Credits: Allotinabox.Com by Scott Wright
Looking to expand your rubber tree’s growth? Look no further! This step-by-step guide will walk you through the process of forcing side shoots on a rubber tree. From assessing your tree’s needs to selecting the right method, preparing your tools, and executing the technique of pruning, grafting, or air layering – we’ve got you covered. Get ready to witness remarkable results as we unlock the secrets to stimulating lateral growth in your rubber tree.
Step 1: Assessing the Rubber Tree
Step 1: Assessing the Rubber Tree
Examine the overall health of the rubber tree. Look for any signs of disease or pest infestation, such as wilting leaves, discoloration, or unusual growths.
Inspect the trunk and branches for any cracks or splits. These can indicate weak areas that may affect the growth of side shoots.
Observe the foliage of the tree. If the leaves are sparse or yellowing, it may be an indication of nutrient deficiencies or poor growing conditions.
Check the root system of the tree. Healthy roots should be firm, white, and have a good distribution throughout the soil. Avoid trees with root rot or root-bound conditions.
Consider the size and age of the tree. Younger trees are generally more responsive to side shoot induction techniques compared to older, well-established trees.
Assess the environmental conditions around the tree. Factors such as sunlight, temperature, and humidity can affect the success of forcing side shoots.
Take note of any previous pruning or shaping done on the tree. This can provide insights into the tree’s growth patterns and potential for side shoot development.
Step 2: Selecting the Appropriate Method
When it comes to forcing side shoots on a rubber tree, step 2 involves selecting the appropriate method. Here are the steps to guide you:
- Assess the current condition of the rubber tree and determine its health and growth patterns.
- Consider the available methods for forcing side shoots, such as pruning techniques, grafting techniques, and air layering techniques.
- Evaluate the benefits and drawbacks of each method and choose the one that best suits your specific situation and goals.
- Gather the necessary tools and equipment for the chosen method, ensuring they are clean and in good condition.
- Follow the step-by-step instructions for pruning, grafting, or air layering as per your chosen method.
- Provide the necessary care and maintenance to support the growth of the forced side shoots, including proper watering, fertilization, and protection from pests or diseases.
Remember, the success of forcing side shoots on a rubber tree depends on selecting the appropriate method based on the tree’s condition and your desired outcomes.
Step 3: Preparing the Tools and Equipment
Step 3: Preparing the Tools and Equipment for forcing side shoots on a rubber tree is an essential part of the process. Here are the necessary steps to follow:
- Gather the essential tools, which include a sharp pruning shear, grafting knife, or air layering tools, depending on the chosen method.
- Ensure that the tools are clean and sterilized before use. This helps prevent the spread of diseases or infections to the rubber tree.
- Inspect the tools and make sure they are in good working condition. Blunt or damaged tools can harm the tree and affect the success of the side shoot process.
- Prepare a clean and stable working surface, such as a sturdy table or bench, where you can comfortably work on the rubber tree.
- Have a clean and damp cloth or towel nearby to wipe off any dirt or sap from the tools during the process.
- Keep a container filled with water or a water-soaked cloth nearby to keep the cuttings or grafts moist before planting or attaching them to the rubber tree.
- Ensure that you have a suitable medium or potting mix ready if you plan to propagate the side shoots using air layering.
- Wear appropriate protective gear, such as gloves and eye goggles, to protect yourself during the process.
Pro-tip: It s important to have everything prepared and organized before starting the process to ensure a smooth and successful operation. Having clean, sterilized tools and a suitable working space will help minimize the risk of introducing any infections or diseases to the rubber tree.
Step 4: Pruning or Grafting or Air Layering
To force side shoots on a rubber tree, you can follow these steps:
- Assess the Rubber Tree: Examine the tree to determine if it has side shoots that need to be forced or if it requires additional shoots for growth.
- Select the Appropriate Method: Decide whether pruning, grafting, or air layering is the best technique to use for forcing side shoots. Consider the tree’s condition and your expertise.
- Prepare the Tools and Equipment: Gather the necessary tools and equipment for the chosen method, such as pruning shears, grafting knife, or materials for air layering.
- Pruning or Grafting or Air Layering: Depending on the selected method, proceed with either pruning the tree to stimulate side shoot growth, grafting a side shoot onto the main tree, or initiating air layering on the desired section of the tree.
- Provide Care and Maintenance: After performing the chosen technique, ensure that the rubber tree receives proper care and maintenance. This includes watering, fertilizing, and monitoring the side shoots’ progress.
By following these steps, you can successfully force side shoots on a rubber tree and promote its growth and development. Remember to exercise caution and follow proper procedures to avoid damaging the tree.
Mistakes to Avoid when Forcing Side Shoots
Photo Credits: Allotinabox.Com by Scott Garcia
When forcing side shoots on a rubber tree, it’s important to avoid certain mistakes that can hinder the process and potentially harm the plant:
- Mistake 1: Using excessive force: Applying too much pressure or forcefully bending the stem can cause damage to the plant and may result in permanent deformities.
- Mistake 2: Not providing proper support: Side shoots need support to grow in the desired direction. Failure to provide adequate support can result in weak or misaligned growth.
- Mistake 3: Forcing too many side shoots: Trying to force too many side shoots at once can overwhelm the plant’s resources and lead to stunted growth or poor overall health.
- Mistake 4: Ignoring signs of stress: If the plant shows signs of stress, such as yellowing leaves or wilting, it’s important to reevaluate the forcing process and make any necessary adjustments.
- Mistake 5: Not allowing sufficient recovery time: After forcing side shoots, the plant needs time to recover and adjust to the new growth. Rushing the process can inhibit healthy growth and development.
In a similar tone, an interesting historical fact is that rubber trees are native to the Amazon rainforest and were first discovered by European explorers in the late 18th century. The latex sap from these trees was later used to develop the commercial rubber industry.
Troubleshooting Common Problems with Side Shoots
When troubleshooting common problems with side shoots on a rubber tree, it is important to address various issues that may arise. Here are some helpful tips to assist you:
- Stunted growth: If the side shoots are not growing as expected, make sure that the rubber tree receives sufficient sunlight and water. Inadequate care can result in slower growth.
- Yellowing leaves: Yellow leaves on the side shoots may indicate nutrient deficiencies. Check the soil pH and consider using a balanced fertilizer to provide the necessary nutrients.
- Wilting or drooping: Side shoots that appear wilted or drooping could be a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Avoid overwatering the rubber tree and improve drainage to prevent root rot.
- Pest infestation: Common pests such as aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites can affect side shoots. Regularly inspect the plant and use suitable horticultural oils or insecticides to control infestations.
- Leaf spots or discoloration: Fungal or bacterial infections can cause leaf spots or discoloration on side shoots. Trim affected leaves and apply a fungicide or bactericide to prevent the spread of the disease.
By addressing these common problems, you can ensure the health and vitality of the side shoots on your rubber tree. Remember to provide proper care and maintenance to promote optimal growth and overall plant health.
Frequently Asked Questions
How to Force Side Shoots on a Rubber Tree?
Answer: To force side shoots on a rubber tree, you can use the method of notching. This involves making a strategic deep cut on the trunk or branch just above a leaf node to stimulate the growth of a new branch. The hormone auxin will flow downward, causing a new branch to form near the cut.
What is the best time to prune a rubber plant to encourage side branching?
Answer: The best time to prune a rubber plant for side branching is during the active growing season, which is from early spring to early summer (March through October). Pruning during this time stimulates new growth and increases the chances of successful branching.
How can I fix a leggy rubber plant and encourage more side branches?
Answer: If you have a leggy rubber plant with minimal side branches, you can fix it by notching. Make deep cuts just above leaf nodes to stimulate new branch growth. By creating these cuts and allowing auxin to flow downward, you can encourage the plant to branch out and become bushier.
What should I do if my rubber plant is dropping leaves instead of producing side limbs?
Answer: If your rubber plant is dropping leaves instead of producing side limbs, it may indicate a lack of proper care. Ensure that your plant is receiving adequate light levels, proper watering, and suitable fertilization. Additionally, you may consider using the notching method or upgrading the soil with a composted mixture to encourage branching and revitalized growth.
Can I prune the top portion of a rubber plant to force it to branch out?
Answer: Yes, you can prune the top portion of a rubber plant to force it to branch out. By breaking apical dominance, which is the upward growth inhibition caused by the main stem, you can encourage the plant to produce side branches. Prune the stem and leaves as far down as desired, leaving a 1/4 inch above a leaf scar or leaf node.
How should I water my rubber plant to prevent shock to the roots and encourage side branching?
Answer: To prevent shock to the roots and encourage side branching, it is recommended to water your rubber plant with lukewarm water. Adjust the watering amount according to the season, allowing the soil to slightly dry out between waterings. Consistent and appropriate watering will help maintain healthy roots and promote overall plant growth.


Hardly ever seen until this year but now it's trendy and on every menu. It grows like a weed in my garden. My favourite way to use it is to rub my salad bowl with a big handful of the stuff and it will impart a lovely savoury Bovril like flavour. When used raw in dishes it can be very overpowering. The first young stalks of spring are the best for a delicious delicate flavour.
Terry Rayner came home from work one day in 2003 and announced to his wife Win that he was quitting work. Win asked Terry what he was planning to do, "Start up a seed business." "Where?" asked Win. "In the garden shed" replied Terry, and so Terwin Seeds was formed. (Yes. Terry and Win, Terwin!) Win told me she was a little nervous when several tons of seed potatoes arrived on their doorstep, but the business has grown and now they have an online shop and a small unit in Cockfield, Suffolk. I met them at last weeks Edible Garden Show. As I have predicted Buckwheat to trend I picked up a pack of the sprouting seeds to try.


I like the articleGeneralities Silver ragwort
Silver ragwort Is an evergreen; during spring iIt assumes a yellowsand colouring; the adult specimens are medium in size and reach 60 cm high. The development is erect, they tend to grow both in height and in width, giving origin to a rounded shrub. These plants are shrubs. Fertilization Silver ragwort
In the spring letís fertilize perennials periodically, using a specific fertilizer for flowering plants, to add to the irrigating water, every 20-25 days; or we can spread a slow release fertilizer near the plants every 3-4 months. Exposure Silver ragwort
During this time of year we shouldn't worry about minimum temperatures, in fact the The Silver ragwort can bear temperatures a few degrees below zero. Plant which need at least a few hours a day of solar light.Perennial plants mainly have a spring and summer development. During the coldest months of the year the aerial part can completely dry out, to come up the year after. Watering Silver ragwort
Letís avoid watering the The Silver ragwort excessively, always leaving the soil dry for a few days between one watering and the other, therefore letís irrigate the substratum deeply every 1-2 weeks with 2-3 glasses of water . These plants display a pretty long period of vegetational rest. During this time it isn't necessary to water the plants. Treatments Silver ragwort
As the day-time temperatures rise at the beginning of the spring, it is agreeable to practice a preventive treatment, with a wide-range insecticide, which should be applied when there arenít flowerings in the garden. Before the buds become too large, it is advisable to also treat them with a wide-range fungicide, to prevent the development of fungal diseases which spread easily when there is an elevated environmental moisture. Soil Silver ragwort
Locate these plants in a soft and deep, very well drained soil.
Notes Silver ragwort
There aren't any notes. The indications given in this article are related to a medium size plant.


Many farmers have experienced significant loss of pasture and crops due to recent floods.
Questions are now being asked about what can be done with these paddocks over summer prior
to sowing new pasture or crops next autumn.
There are essentially two options farmers can consider with affected paddocks; either
maintaining a fallow prior to sowing next autumn or sowing a summer forage crop. The choice
will depend to some extent on the number and class of livestock on hand for feeding over
While maintaining a fallow will be appropriate on some paddocks, given the full moisture profile,
there is expected to be significant increases in weed germinations this year with flood water
having carried in weed seed and good moisture conditions providing ample opportunity for their
germination. It is likely that repeated spraying will be required this year to maintain a clean fallow
– the cost of this operation can add up considerably.
It is worthwhile considering summer forage crops on at least some paddocks as these can
provide opportunity for finishing or maintaining livestock over the summer period whilst offering
competition against weeds.
Within the summer forages, millet and forage sorghums are two main options. Millet is a good
option for both sheep and cattle while forage sorghums are better suited to cattle only. Generally,
millet maintains better feed quality (digestibility, protein) than sorghums.
There is a risk of prussic acid poisoning associated with sorghum so it is critical to observe
grazing recommendations. Millet is a safer option than sorghum as it does not contain prussic
Both millet and sorghum can be grazed or used for silage or haymaking purposes. The stage of
maturity of the plant has a significant impact on quality of the conserved forage.
Presence of residual herbicides can impact on the performance of both millet and sorghum so it
is important to check herbicide application records and check plant-back periods on herbicide
labels prior to sowing.
Recent research by John Piltz at NSW DPI has shown use of summer forage options can add
considerably to livestock production potential over summer and also assist in suppressing
“Based on feed analysis of samples from our studies last year, we determined weaner lambs
would be capable of growing at over 150 g/head/day on millet during the vegetative stage of
growth,” said Mr. Piltz.
“In addition, we saw a significant reduction in the amount of witchgrass, a common summer
weed, when millet was grown compared to fallow plots,” Mr Piltz said.
Whether you choose fallow or forage crop options over summer, the essential thing is to control
weeds through this period to set next year’s pasture or crop sowings up for success.
For further information on animal health or flood recovery, please contact your nearest Local
Land Services Office.


STORAGE TYPES Muhammad Nadeem Ashraf Department of Soil & Environmental Sciences Faculty of Agriculture, Rawalakot email@example.com
Local storage Local storage is the storage of grains, in houses. In local storage we use tin, metal, clay and grass made container. It protects the grains from house hold grain pests and rodents.
Examples Of Local Storage1. ) Purl2. ) Patare3. ) Pussa bin4.) Gade5.) Pucca Kothl6. ) Metal_bins


The Arbequina is an olive variety born in Catalonia (Spain). Arbequina oils have a rich and complex taste profile. The delicate aromas make for a smooth and well-balanced introduction on the palate.
These olive oils present a wide sensory spectrum with flavours ranging from almond, apple or banana to freshly cut grass. The presence of aromatic herbs brings out a nice refreshing feel. Notes of dried fruit can add a ripe fruity touch.
The quality and taste profile of our extra virgin olive oils are the result of a solid olive-growing expertise, an exceptional parcel of land and hardy olive trees.
Our olives are meticulously hand picked and pressed in highly controlled conditions in order to extract the best of the olive.
SENSORY CHARACTERISTICS :
1ÈRE|RÉCOLTE is an extra virgin olive oil with character. With green fruity and ripe notes, it provides a unique taste profile. It presents aromas ranging from freshly cut grass to apple, green almond, hazelnut and walnut.
This diversity of aromatic flavours is delicately balanced and highlights the uniqueness of our extra virgin olive oil.
CULINARY MATCHES :
1ÈRE|RÉCOLTE is an excellent tasting oil that perfectly complements fish, pasta and vegetable dishes and is also a nice addition to any dressing.
Nutrition Information per 3,38 oz (100ml)
|Total Fat (g)
| Saturated Fat (g)
| Sugar (g)


Cosmos, “Rubenza” Seeds
Deeply colored 3″ blooms are beauteous in contrast when paired with white flowers and silver-foliage plants. A Fleuroselect Novelty award winner, this cosmos is a real standout in the garden or a vase, and butterflies love them, too. Blooms start out red-wine colored and turn to dusky rose as they age. Growing cosmos is an easy way to add color to your garden, as they require little attention and are drought tolerant.
300 mg packet contains ~29 seeds
When to Sow Outside: RECOMMENDED. 1 to 2 weeks after your average last frost date, and when soil temperature is at least 60°F.
When to Start Inside: 4 to 6 weeks before your average last frost date.
Days to Emerge: 5–10 days
Seed Depth: Barely cover
Seed Spacing: A group of 3 seeds every 12"
Thinning: When 1" – 2" tall, thin to 1 every 12"
Harvesting: For longest vase life, cut stems just as flower buds begin to open.


This What-If simulation estimates the costs and societal benefits from investing in drip irrigation infrastructure for a rural community in Ghana. The simulation results serve to inform the Green Climate Fund and other public donors and investors whether such irrigation infrastructure should be targeted by sustainable recovery financing.
This What-If simulation explores if water-efficient irrigation infrastructure on 1,010 hectares of agricultural land in a rural area in Ghana is a worthwhile infrastructure investment for sustainable community development in light of climate change and the economic challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic.
The conducted assessment consists of a valuation of the additional costs and benefits associated with the implementation of water-efficient irrigation infrastructure in the proposed project area. Water-efficient irrigation is assumed to lead to greater water availability and free up more land to be used for crop production. Read the full report for detailed simulation results.


Greenhouse gas emission analyses from nine agricultural development projects reveal mitigation options
Analyses show that some agricultural practices contribute to improved food security and climate change mitigation; practices adopted at large scales could contribute significantly to food and climate goals.
The 119 countries that committed to mitigate greenhouse gas emissions from agriculture in the Paris Agreement are developing implementation plans that include sub-sectoral goals and strategies. Recently published agricultural greenhouse gas emission analyses from nine tropical, developing countries can help prioritize agricultural practices that contribute to sustainable development goals in food security and climate.
Reseachers analyzed nine USAID agricultural projects and identified agricultural management practices in rice, agroforestry and livestock systems that increase production, provide climate change mitigation co-benefits and have potential for widespread adoption.
The analyses result from a collaborative effort of the CGIAR Research Program on Climate Change, Agriculture and Food Security (CCAFS), the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), and the United States Agency for International Development (USAID). They serve to improve understanding of how different agricultural management practices impact yields, net greenhouse gas emissions and emission intensity.
Agricultural practices with food security and climate benefitsIrrigated rice
In alternate wetting and drying (AWD) farmers periodically dry their irrigated lowland rice fields.Because submerged soil leads to low-oxygen conditions, organic residue in flooded rice paddies decomposes anaerobically, releasing methane, a powerful greenhouse gas. Periodically drying the paddy interrupts this process and can reduce methane emissions by up to half as compared to continuous flooding. AWD also reduces water use by up to 30%, conserving water and the fuel required to pump it, often decreasing out-of-pocket costs for farmers.
Analyses revealed that although AWD delivers high climate change mitigation benefits per-area, barriers limit widespread adoption. The extent to which AWD can contribute to climate change mitigation and water conservation depends on identifying where and how to surmount these barriers. Read more on AWD in Bangladesh, Ghana and Haiti.
Urea deep placement (UDP) is a fertilizer management technology that improves nutrient use efficiency by placing urea briquettes into soil, instead of broadcasting urea granules on the surface of soil. Most often used in rice paddies, UDP reduces emissions of nitrous oxide and unintended nitrogen loss caused by volatilization of ammonia, surface runoff and nitrate leaching. UDP also decreases the amount of fertilizer needed compared to surface broadcasting.
While emission reductions per hectare from UDP are small, nitrogen uptake by plans - and thus health of plants - is large. The Accelerating Agriculture Productivity Improvement project in Bangladesh expected wide uptake of UDP and thus large emission reductions for the project. The project also found that farmers who use mechanization for UDP are more likely to adopt the practice, given the physical demands of manually placing briquettes.
Perennial crops and agroforestry
Perennial crops and agroforestry remove carbon from the atmosphere by storing carbon in plant biomass and soil. Improving landscape management by avoiding land degradation, replacing annual crops with perennial crops, installing agroforestry systems and better managing soil fertility convey climate change mitigation benefits by creating conditions in which plants and soil can store more carbon and/or reducing emissions associated with fertilizer.
Emission reductions potential varies by particular practice. Agroforestry projects need to consider which types of agroforestry systems make sense in the local context and pay careful attention to why farmers might or might not adopt and maintain trees in their fields. In Zambia, farmers adopted alley agroforestry systems (in which rows of perennial crops or trees are planted among annual crops) and experienced increased annual crop productivity while sequestering carbon. These farmers also had an added incentive to grow and maintain trees on their farms: the project connected them to consumer markets through a product label that offered premium prices to growers who complied with conservation standards, including practicing agroforestry.
Herd size management strategies aim to increase productivity, enabling reduction of herd size while maintaining the level of production of the agricultural product, such as milk or meat for example. In general, a small but efficient herd increases productivity per animal and results in lower net greenhouse gas emissions.
A project in Kenya aimed to reduce total herd-size by 10% in two counties through quicker animal growth that allows slaughter at an earlier age. The project boosted producers’ access to inputs (feed and veterinary services), improved market links between livestock producers and buyers and increased the availability of timely market information for livestock producers. This herd-size management strategy was appropriate for Kenya; project developers must adapt strategies to the local context and assess whether incentives or changes to enabling conditions (e.g., insurance, financial services) are needed for a livestock producer to reduce herd size without facing production risks.
Grassland improvements are accomplished through managing the intensity and timing of grazing, planting or protecting species and/or adding nutrients and water to promote growth. Grassland improvements contribute to increased agricultural productivity and provide mitigation co-benefits by sequestering more carbon in soil and biomass.
A project in Ethiopia improved pasture quality and increased biomass and soil carbon sequestration by employing soil and water conservation measures, enclosing degraded pastures, selectively thinning bush and clearing the invasive plant Prosopis.
Access the case studies
- Accelerating Agriculture Productivity Improvement (AAPI) in Bangladesh: irrigated rice, soil and fertilizer management
- ACCESO in Honduras: perennial crops and agroforestry, livestock, soil and fertilizer management
- Agricultural Development and Value Chain Enhancement Activity (ADVANCE) II in Ghana: irrigated rice, soil and water management
- Better Life Alliance in Zambia: perennial crops and agroforestry, land use, soil and fertilizer management
- Chanjè Lavi Planté in Haiti: perennial crops and agroforestry, irrigated rice, land use, soil and fertilizer management
- Pastoralist Resiliency Improvement and Market Expansion (PRIME) in Ethiopia: livestock
- Peru Cacao Alliance in Peru: perennial crops and agroforestry, soil and fertilizer management
- Resilience & Economic Growth in Arid Lands - Accelerated Growth (REGAL-AG) in Kenya: livestock
- Rwanda Dairy Competitiveness Project in Rwanda: livestock
- USAID-CCAFS collaboration: Low emissions opportunities in agriculture: Supporting food security, economic growth and biodiversity conservation
- CCAFS project: Low emissions opportunities in USAID agriculture and food security initiatives
Climate Links published a related blog called Case Studies from Nine Countries Show Climate Change Mitigation Co-benefits from Agricultural Practices that Support Food Security on August 15, 2017.
Julianna White is Program Manager for CCAFS Low Emissions Development, based at the University of Vermont Gund Institute for Environment. Julie Nash was a scientist with CCAFS Low Emissions Development and the University of Vermont Gund Institute for Environment in 2016. She is now a Senior Manager in Food and Markets for Ceres, Inc.


“Fallen leaves lying on the grass in the November sun bring more happiness than the daffodils” – Cyril Connolly
If left on the grass of your lawn for long enough, leaves will cause it to weaken and yellow, which will encourage fungal diseases and bare patches. Gather them up and turn them into leafmould, which has many uses all around the garden.
Young leafmould – one to two years old – leaves that are beginning to break up and are easily crumbled in the hand can be used for mulch around shrubs, herbaceous perennials, trees and veg. Dig it in as a soil improver, Autumn top-dressing for lawns, or a winter cover for bare soil.
Well-rotted leafmould (two or more years old) can be used as above, and also mixed with equal parts sharp sand and garden compost as a seed-sowing mix or potting compost.
Leaves contain over 75% of the nutrients of the tree. Most are reabsorbed by the tree as the leaves die. What’s left is the fibre in the leaves’ cell structure, a substance called lignin. In your soil lignin acts as a buffer against extremes of mineral flows within the soil and can hold nutrients in reserve.
The only negative about leafmould is the time it takes to make. It contains mostly carbon, which takes longer to break down than the mostly nitrogen-rich materials you put into your compost heap. Leaves are broken down by the slow, cool action of fungi. If you put large amounts of leaves in your compost heap it will slow down the composting process, which is done by heat-generating bacteria. Unless you only have small amounts of leaves, don’t add them to your compost heap.
Large quantities of autumn leaves are best recycled separately in a leafmould heap or in smaller quantities in black plastic bags with holes punctured in them with a fork. The way to keep a heap in place is to drive posts into the ground, surround it with chicken wire or similar, and fill with leaves.
You can rake the leaves up or an easier way is to use your lawnmower with the grass-collection box on. This also chops the leaves up small, which will speed up the breaking-down process, and if you have grass clippings mixed in it will increase the nutrient content of your leafmould.
Make sure to soak the leaves as you are building up the layers, as they must be wet to break down. Check them every so often throughout the year, and wet them if they dry out. If they do dry out, mix them up as you wet them.
Oak, beech and hornbeam make the best leafmould; ash, sycamore and chestnut also work, but take longer to break down. Tough evergreen leaves like holly or laurel take too long and are best shredded and added to the compost heap.


Organic, hand-picked midi cucumber. Harvested early, these are tender and slightly sweet, with a lovely crunch.
Cucumbers are difficult to grow in England, therefore we grow under cover which creates a warmer environment. We use beneficial insects within in the tunnels in order to keep pests such as aphids under control and the cucumbers are grown up a string
Keep in the vegetable drawer in the fridge for up to a week.
Mother and daughter-run Purton House Organics supplies much of our fruit and vegetables, as well as organic beef, pork and eggs.


Each year around 3 830 cubic km - that's 3.8 billion tonnes - of freshwater is withdrawn for human use. The lion's share is taken by the agriculture sector, which accounts globally for about 70 percent of all water withdrawals.
"Agriculture has been highly successful in capturing the bulk of the world's freshwater resources," says an FAO report to COAG, "but with little accountability." That is changing rapidly, in the face of demographic growth and economic development that has placed unprecedented pressure on water supplies, particularly in arid regions.
As the global population - especially urban population - grows, more water will be required worldwide for domestic and industrial use. Already there is intense competition for water in peri-urban zones and urban hinterlands in developing countries. Beyond the "productive sectors", awareness is growing that part of the available surface water must be left to follow its natural course to safeguard aquatic ecosystems.
FAO says agriculture's role in generating water scarcity - and degrading high quality surface and groundwater for marginal output - is not disputed. "What is often ignored, however, is the potential of sound management of agricultural water use to open up more options for reallocation." The report makes the case for consolidating FAO's existing water-related activities under an explicit water programme designed to leverage all the multi-disciplinary capacities available within the Organization.
"The scope of FAO's involvement with water resource management is extremely wide, from the precise application of water to the root zone, to the development of livestock watering strategies and aquaculture," the report says. Among UN specialized agencies, "FAO has the highest comparative advantage in tackling water scarcity issues in agriculture", being able to deliver the full range of technical analysis and support required. This has already been recognized by the United Nations' coordinating mechanism, UN-Water, which has assigned FAO to lead its water scarcity initiative.
But water expertise is currently dispersed across the organization. A more coherent water programme would, therefore, enhance the delivery of technical and policy advice to member countries and regional groupings, particularly those having to reconcile water scarcity with agricultural development. The programme would implicate all FAO technical departments, and require a much sharper, systemic focus from the relevant units to be built into a substantive programmatic framework.
The proposed programme would aim at generating water use efficiencies and productivity increases in on-farm water management, and optimizing water allocations within agriculture and across all the other productive sectors.
The productivity derived from water management is contingent on many factors, such as soil fertility, cultivar selection and post-harvest controls up to the farm gate. That, the report says, "sets the systemic value added chain in which water use efficiency can be evaluated and the scope for on-farm systemic improvement analysed". Under conditions of limited water availability, management improvements - e.g. sprinkler, trickle and deficit irrigation - are imperative. Also recommended are integrated water conservation practices and economic incentives to influence the total level of water use and the pattern of use. Maximizing crop yield per unit of land helps maximize yield per unit of water use.
The use of irrigation drainage water and resources of marginal quality, such as treated wastewater and saline water, is increasing. Those "non-conventional" water resources have become essential for millions of smallholders, both for its water and nutrient value and for its reliability. To protect and sustain high quality water for drinking, irrigation management should increase the "safe use" of low quality water resources, selecting and investing in water treatment technology that takes into account health protection, pollution control, costs, the scale of operation, and the quality of water needed for specific purposes.
Water harvesting has the potential to contribute substantially to increased food production, in water-scarce regions with few technical options for water storage and control. FAO studies show that
The report says "agricultural agencies need to be in a much better position to negotiate reallocation of bulk water resources before access and control is simply withdrawn through compulsory reallocation". FAO advises agricultural agencies to provide clear information on agricultural water use, engage with other key players in the water sector, and establish transparent methods to negotiate allocations. Institutional shifts are also needed to enhance the economic mobility of water both within agriculture and across competing economic sectors. In irrigation, there must be a shift from a supply-driven approach to development strategies that are much more responsive to demand.
Read the full FAO report to COAG on Agriculture and water scarcity (PDF, 145K)
See also in Spotlight: Environment and agriculture, Reconciling livestock and environment, and Agribusiness boom
Get the full list of COAG documents
Published April 2007