Djawadou Sannia, Godardo Juanichb
a FAO Consultant, Porto Novo, Benin
b FAO Consultant, Buacao, Clarin, Bohol, Philippines
Sanni, D. &Juanich, G. 2006. A feasibility study of rice-fish farming in Western Africa. In M. Halwart & A.A. van Dam, eds. Integrated irrigation and aquaculture in West Africa: concepts, practices and potential, pp. 75–78. Rome, FAO. 181 pp.
The paper presents the executive summary of results of a mission to Mali, Senegal, Ivory Coast and Ghana to evaluate past experience and current activities in rice-fish farming and assess the potential for further development. The main finding of the mission was that rice-fish culture is feasible in the West African subregion. The extensive form of rice-fish farming which is already practiced is worth improving to obtain higher fish yields. Intensive rice-fish culture should be introduced to rice farming in West Africa because it can provide additional income to rice farmers. The main immediate constraint is the need for technology training at local level. Recommendations include introduction of intensive rice-fish farming in rice plots with totally controlled irrigation; improved water management in low lying areas, especially for flood control; assessment of the feasibility of extensive rice-fish farming in ponds along rivers; assessment of the feasibility of extensive rice-fish culture in mangrove areas, with due recognition of environmental considerations; and integrated pest management for rice-fish farming.
Aquaculture integrated into irrigated plots has been considered a suitable way to increase the fishery production in sub-Saharan Africa. Since the early 1990s, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) has worked to help implementing these recommendations. In September 1999, FAO organized a workshop in Accra to consider the opportunity of setting up an Integrated Irrigation-Aquaculture Network (IIA) in the western Africa subregion (Moehl et al. 2001). Two missions were fielded between October 1999 and July 2000 to assess the potential for IIA integration. At the same time, FAO proposed a regional programme to develop integrated inland water resources management in areas prone to recurrent drought in western Africa. Within this regional programme, rice-fish farming can be considered a part of the IIA component. Following the conclusions of the two missions, the Committee for Inland Fisheries of Africa (CIFA), during its meeting in Abuja (Nigeria) in October 2000, recommended to look more closely at the feasibility of rice-fish farming in western Africa.
IIA in sub-Saharan Africa, and more specifically rice-fish farming, should be seen in the context of:
This report is based on a mission to Niger, Mali, Senegal, Ivory Coast and Ghana during March and April 2001. In each country, the authors evaluated past experiments and the current status of rice-fish farming and assessed its potential and the availability of know-how and other resources such as rice varieties, fish seeds and farmers’expectations about rice-fish culture.
The main finding of the mission was that rice-fish culture is feasible in the West African subregion. All sites visited by the team provided a good idea of rice farming practices and revealed that rice-fish farming can be implemented successfully in western Africa. The west African subregion has great infrastructure potential for irrigated rice culture. Both irrigated rice crops under total water management, and rice crops with controlled flooding in low-lying areas or swamps can be integrated with fish farming.
In all countries visited, rice farming irrigation projects have been planned or are being implemented. Because existing rice areas were not designed for rice-fish farming, the height of the dikes is often insufficient for rice-fish farming. Some of the pumping systems used to irrigate these rice fields may not be sufficient to supply the water requirements of rice-fish farming, particularly during the dry season when most motor-pumps are switched off or run at low capacity to save energy.
Water management is the most important factor for succes of rice-fish culture in low lying areas. Water supply can be either too high, with floods washing away the fish, or insufficient with fields drying up too early in the season.
The same rice varieties are used almost everywhere. These varieties are distributed by WARDA through its research networks or through the Inland Valley Consortium. The average duration of the rice production cycle is 120 days. Some varieties have local names. In irrigated rice culture, large amounts of fertilizers as well as herbicides and pesticides are used to assure higher yields. Only in Ivory Coast and Ghana, the use of chemicals has been reduced after training on integrated pest management. This is positive for rice-fish culture. The aquatic fern Azolla can be found nearly everywhere, but it is not formally farmed and farmers often ignore its properties and use. Nonetheless, irrigated rice culture techniques are generally well known and mastered in all the sites visited. Problems in water management sometimes arise due to overlapping activities with other crops in the culture calendar.
In the immediate vicinity of the sites visited the availability of fingerlings, especially of Nile tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus), is not a problem either because there are streams nearby or (sometimes privately run) fish farms.
Traditional extensive rice-fish farming is still practiced in Niger, Senegal and Mali, where river floods and rising tides pour fingerlings into rice plots where they grow until harvest. Human intervention in this system is mainly concerned with the infrastructure and not with fish because water regulation is needed to increase rice production.
Experiments on intensive or classic rice culture have been carried out in each of the countries visited. These experiments had a strong research focus and few or no farmers were involved; the results, whether positive or negative, were often not available. Because of the increasing interest in rice-fish farming, intensive rice-fish culture projects have been planned in these five countries and are awaiting funds to revive research in this field. A rice-fish farming project has been planned at the Private Agriculture Institute of Mianzan in Adzope, Ivory Coast.
During discussions with farmers and technicians it became clear that rice-fish farming is viewed as a potentially important technology in the struggle for food security. Various issues related to the problem were raised, such as lack of technological knowledge and need for training, use of fertilizers and pesticides, expensive supplementary food, mangrove fish, drying up of low lying areas, fish size at harvest, contributions the farmers have to provide, the starting date of such a venture, etc. Farmers expressed a strong interest in this technology.
In all countries, experience in rice culture exists and experience in aquaculture is growing. Innovation is stimulated by the implementation of water management and diversification of the SPFS programmes. Whereas experience in the management of traditional rice-fish farming systems also exists (although improvements are needed), knowledge on intensive rice-fish culture is lacking everywhere. There are a few technicians who had the opportunity to deal with rice-fish culture during a training course in Asia or even in their home country (as e.g. in Dawhenya, Ghana), but they never had the opportunity to exploit their skills. Farmers generally know nothing about rice-fish culture but are curious to discover. Some farmers followed the training in Dawhenya, Ghana and know the technology but, for the time being, cannot put their knowledge into practice because of predators.
Unfortunately, the yield data on past rice-fish culture experiments are often unavailable. However, farmers intuitively grasp that they will harvest fish as well as rice in the same field where only rice was previously harvested. The Niger Office in Niono (Mali) reported rice yields from one rice-fish plot of 9 tonnes/ha, considerably higher than the average 7 tonnes/ha usually obtained from regular rice plots. Results of fish production were not considered in this experiment because of predators.
It is concluded that rice-fish farming has good prospects also in financial terms but not under all scenarios and conditions. For example, it is still not clear if the additional fish crop will compensate for the additional water pumping. This cannot be answered at the moment and further research should be carried out in this direction.
For “intensive” rice-fish farming to succeed, it must be practised at individual farmer or farming household level, where everybody contributes to rice-fish culture management.
Conclusions and recommendations
On the basis of the above findings, the mission came to the conclusion that both extensive and intensive forms of rice-fish farming are feasible in western Africa. The extensive form which is already practiced is worth improving to obtain higher fish yields. Intensive rice-fish culture should be introduced to rice farming in West Africa because it can provide additional income to rice farmers.
The mission also recognized constraints to development of rice-fish farming. The main immediate constraint is the need for technology training at local level. Rice-fish development in Africa will only happen if the following issues are addressed:
Integrated pest management for rice-fish farming.
It is recommended that a development strategy for rice-fish farming in Africa be focused on three main themes: training, experimentation, and implementation.
In support of this strategy, it is recommended that Technical Co-operation Programmes be implemented in each country and that FAO’s Telefood projects be planned to give assistance to the pilot rice-fish farmers who could further serve in the technological promotion. Further to these programmes in each country, it is suggested that complementary action be taken for fisheries and water management. On a regional scale, active participation of countries in an IIA network to which they will contribute with the results of their activities is recommended. These countries should also start collaborating with international research institutes, particulary with WARDA which has an important role in the research on rice varieties used in different ecological conditions and farming systems. Finally, exchange within the South-South cooperation programmes should also be considered.
Moehl, J.F., Beernaerts, I., Coche, A.G., Halwart, M. & Sagua, V.O. 2001. Proposal for an African network on integrated irrigation and aquaculture. Proceedings of a Workshop held in Accra, Ghana, 20–21 September 1999. Rome, FAO. 75 p.


The Agriculture program enriches the broad general education provided by Wilmington College with basic courses designed to prepare students either for graduate programs or for participation in the food systems industry. This includes production, processing, management, finance, marketing, research, and other varied professions.
The Agricultural Business concentration combines agriculture courses with varied offerings in accounting, business administration, and economics. Students with this concentration usually enter supply or marketing firms closely associated with farm production or return to home farms. They work in areas such as agricultural credit, farm business management, agricultural supply firm management, and marketing.
The Agricultural Communications concentrations is designed as a cross-curricular degree program that combines an agricultural science core with study and application in integrated communication. Through the context of agriculture, students will explore the rich and growing fields of food policy and development, technical, and science writing, agricultural journalism, public relations, event planning, and communications management. As the global demand for food and fiber increases, so will the need to bridge the information gap between producers and consumers-or industry and the public. Graduates of the agricultural communications program will serve that niche in a variety of ways.
The Agronomy concentration prepares students for agriculture professions in areas of soil science, crop science, agriculture biochemistry and basic research, as well as soil and water conservation. Many students in agronomy will minor in Chemistry.
The Animal Science concentration prepares students for career opportunities as herd managers, managers of livestock enterprises, field representatives of livestock enterprises, livestock buyers, or related meat industry positions. Students may want to complement this concentration with a minor in Biology.
The Resource Conservation and Regenerative Agriculture concentration teaches a whole-systems approach to agriscience-from soil to supermarket. The emerging practices of agroecology, regenerative agronomy, permaculture, soil management, and conservation planning are taught and implemented on the college's 267-acre academic farm and throughout its greenhouses, high tunnels, and raised beds. This program is ideal for students interested in federal- and state- agency soil science/soil conservation careers, and meets all qualification standards as outlined by the USDA-NRCS (at least 12 semester hours in combination of soils and crops or plant science).
Transfer students from Clark State Community College, Agricultural Technical Institute - The Ohio State University, and Southern State Community College, who have completed an Associate of Applied Science or a two-year technical degree in an area related to Agriculture, Horticulture, Natural Resources, or Environmental Studies with a minimum cumulative grade point average of 2.0, can complete this degree program by taking the 24 Resource Conservation and Regenerative Agriculture hours remaining outside of the 26-hour Agriculture core.
In addition, Wilmington College offers a Career-Technical license in Agriscience (grades four and beyond). Students must be admitted to the Teacher Education Program. It is recommended that students seeking licensure consult faculty in the Agriculture and Education areas. See Education for additional information.
The Equine Business Management major will offer core classes in both the Equine and Business areas. The foundation of coursework will be centered on communication, science, and business management as it pertains to the equine industry. Upon completing an Equine Business Management degree, students will have the knowledge and skill set to be competitive upon entering the work force or the background to continue on with specialized academic or vocational pursuits in the equine industry. Graduates of the program are prepared for careers in equine event management, equine nutrition, farm, and ranch management, or owning an equine related business. Please note student pursing the Equine Business Management major cannot also pursue the Equine Studies minor.
The Equine Studies minor curriculum is based on core Equine classes. Electives are offered areas of Agriculture, Business, and Equine. This provides students the opportunity to tailer their education and concentrate on their area of interest. Students will be offered hands-on opportunities to manage animals, integrate solutions, and explore the score of the equine industry. The Equine Studies minor complements majors in the area of Agriculture, Business, and Biology.
Independent Studies and Internships are available to students with cumulative averages of 2.50 or higher and the recommendation of a faculty member in the department.
Agriculture Major with Agricultural Business Concentration
Agriculture Major with Agricultural Leadership and Communications Concentration
Agriculture Major with Agronomy Concentration
Agriculture Major with Animal Science Concentration
Equine Business Management Major
Resource Conservation & Regenerative Agriculture Concentration (RCRA)
Equine Studies Minor
Introduction to agricultural communication is a course designed to prepare students to understand, analyze, and communicate about complex issues in food, agriculture, and the environment. This course will provide students with a foundation in basic and advanced communication theories, models and practices that apply within agricultural settings. This course is designed to introduce students to the Agricultural Communication and Management concentration and the related fields of employment including, but not limited to, public relations, sales management, marketing management, communications management, technical writing, journalism, and media relations.
Historical analysis of soil and water conservation policies and programs, as outlined in the Conservation Title of the U.S. Farm Bill. Course will examine policy initiatives, implementation strategies, and evaluative and/or administrative processes. Students will explore and discuss various approaches to resource management including the use of incentives and disincentives, top-down regulatory approaches, and private-public partnerships.
Production of important field crops of the world with greatest emphasis on U.S. and Midwestern field crops; crop production changes and adjustments, crop distribution over U.S., and crop groups and classifications, special agronomic problems, crop enemies, crop ecology, fertilizer and liming practices, tillage, crop improvement through breeding.
Analysis of problems involved in meeting current and prospective world needs of food and fiber production. Course work will have an emphasis on business organization, credit, diversity, education, marketing, and production. Students will experience World Food through multiple perspectives including culinary arts, economics, geography, and policy. There are practical exercises in cross-cultural negotiation technique, import-export of agricultural goods, and international trade.
This course will provide insight into the sales function within agriculture business. Selling strategies and approaches, why and how people buy, prospective, territory management and customer relations are all topics to be discussed. The topics of self-presentation, communication, and interpersonal skills that are necessary in developing leadership qualities within the agricultural sector will be explored.
This course will provide an overview of common-law principles and statutory law to agency relationship, land tenure, farm tenancy, farm labor, farm management, taxation and estate planning.
This course is designed to educate students about current revolving issues in the agricultural, food, and natural resource sciences and to expose student to a variety of methods used to critically evaluate contentious issues and effectively communicate, inform, and influence decisions made about these issues. In addition, this course explores the impacts agricultural issues have on the agricultural industry and society.
Emphasizes genetic improvement of livestock. Quantitative and molecular genetic principles are studied and applied to livestock production. Current and emerging genetic and reproduction technologies, including genomics, genetic engineering, cloning, embryo transfer, and artificial insemination are discussed.
Emphasizes reproductive anatomy & physiology of livestock. Anatomical structures involved and hormonal control of reproduction, pregnancy, parturition, and lactation are studied and applied to livestock production. Current and emerging reproductive and genetic technologies, including artificial insemination, cloning, estrous synchronization, estrus and pregnancy detection, multiple ovulation embryo transfer, semen sexing, genetic engineering, and genomic engineering, and genomic selection, are discussed.
The course covers in-depth production practices of major forage crops. Areas of focus include the principles of classification, varieties used, production practices, harvesting, marketing and seed production. Laboratory work includes forage seed and plant identification.
This course will examine advanced concepts in soil conservation, including factors that influence soil erosion, soil-loss prediction models and methods of measurement, and practices in erosion control. Students will explore conservation cropping systems, tillage methods, structural systems, and vegetation establishment. Course will include a review of soil survey and land-use planning tools.
An internship is an intensive career-oriented work experience related to the studen'ts academic studies, professional and educational goals. It is also an opportunity to gain practical experience in one's major field of study, apply knowledge gained in the classroom, and make useful contacts in a professional field. The experience is ideally unique to the student and must be supervised by a qualified supervisor.


Studies on the tuber transmission of ‘Candidatus Liberibacter solanacearum’
Studies have been conducted in New Zealand to evaluate the possible role of potato tubers in the transmission of ‘Candidatus Liberibacter solanacearum’ (EPPO A1 List – bacterium associated with zebra chip disease). Potato tubers infected with ‘Ca. L. solanacearum’ were planted in the absence of the psyllid vector (Bactericera cockerelli - EPPO A1 List) and the progeny obtained was tested by nested-PCR. In this experiment, 62 infected and 38 healthy potato tubers were planted (under a net to prevent psyllid infestation) and the development of symptoms was monitored between planting of the mother tubers and the resulting crop. In the resulting crop, the transmission ‘Ca. L. solanacearum’ was evaluated with the development of foliar and tuber symptoms, and positive results in nested-PCR tests. A large proportion of mother tubers (58) sprouted. During the growing season, only 2 plants (out of the 58 obtained) showed symptoms of zebra chip; they died prematurely and the presence of the pathogen could be detected in leaf samples. The remaining 56 potato plants did not show any foliage symptoms. However, when tested the pathogen could be found in foliar samples from 39 of these potato plants. At the end of the growing season, harvested progeny tubers were screened for the presence of zebra chip symptoms and tested. Mild symptoms were observed in tubers which had been produced by 1 plant only. Nested-PCR tests of tuber samples (1 representative tuber collected from each harvested plant) confirmed that ‘Ca. L. solanacearum’ was present in the daughter tubers showing mild symptoms, as well as in tubers originating from 4 asymptomatic plants. These results showed that ‘Ca. L. solanacearum’ can be transmitted from the mother tubers both to the foliage of growing plants and to progeny tubers.
Pitman AR, Drayton GM, Kraberger SJ, Genet RA, Scott IAW (2011) Tuber transmission of 'Candidatus Liberibacter solanacearum' and its association with zebra chip on potato in New Zealand. European Journal of Plant Pathology 129(3), 389-398.


Howdy reader? After flying and making drones for more than 3 years, I never thought drones will be useful to our farmers until I designed a drone for the same purpose. It was an amazing experience for me as I got to see how drones are impacting our day to day lives. Wondering how drones are used in agriculture, Here’s what they are being used for in agricultural field: r
- Solving irrigation problems.
- Checking for fungal and pest infestations.
- Monitoring crop growth and increasing crop production.
- For aerial seeding.
- Similarly, For checking soil variations.
This is just the tip of the iceberg as these are only a few of many other applications. Let’s take a look at each one of them.
How Drones Used In Agricultural Practices [Summary]
As I have said earlier, Now we’re going to discuss everything in great detail. So stick with me till the end and trust me I won’t let you down.
1. Solving Irrigation Problems
A lot of people use drones to solve irrigation problems. Let me explain how Drones equipped with the right cameras and types of equipment make it easy to monitor various areas in the agricultural field. Under-irrigated areas (causing salts to accumulate) can be monitored with the help of it. And not only this, It can check for the hotspots which are over-irrigated. Remember this, Over-irrigation affects plant growth a lot like leaching of Nitrogen and other micro-nutrients in the soil.
2. Checking Fungal or Pest Infestation
Looking through each part of the agricultural field in search of fungal as well as pest infestation is a haunting task. If you have been through that you know the pain. Therefore, you get to see drones’ true potential here. A well-equipped drone can be used for finding infestations that sometimes get overlooked by human eyes. An aerial view of the agricultural land is generated through the drone imaging system. Thi generated-view is later used by the farmers for tracking the infestation by going though it manually or using A.I (or, Machine Learning Algorithms). Either way, it makes the task easier and merrier which can take weeks on a big chunk of agricultural land.
Why do I think it is better? In the United States, insects and fungal/pest infestations cause $120 billion of damage every year. That’s for the U.S. only, Think about the damages caused by it all around the world.
3. Monitoring Crop Growth & Increase Production
Drones can be used manually or set to automatically monitor the plant growth daily, weekly, or monthly. It helps farmers in identifying plant growth in various areas in the land by taking continuous images as per set frequency, thus revealing possible trouble spots.
After these areas or spots are identified by farmers, it can be used to improve farming methods and increase farm production.
4. Aerial Seeding
This is one of the best applications of the drone in an agricultural field. Want to know why? As everyone gets to fly the drone and spread the seeds on the field using drones.
Is it better? Yes, It is. You must be thinking how? Don’t worry, I’m here to help. If we use a drone for spreading the seeds across the land. It will be faster and easier because it is a more efficient approach than traditional approaches. As drones can spread the seeds consistently throughout the agricultural land which in turn can help in improving plant growth.
If we look at this approach carefully, Can you think of other similar applications? You got it. Spraying fertilizers, irrigation, and plucking of certain plants (i.e. weeds) can be done with the help of the drones.
5. Checking Soil Variations
Pheww, Coming to the last application. Wait, I remember more applications now. Holdup after I end this point. So the soil is one of the most critical factors while growing crops. Overlooking it is not an option. Here drone comes to rescue as looking through whole agricultural land is a horrifying task for anyone.
Using the drone imaging system several images of the land can be generated. Later farmers use these processed images generated using different camera imagining technologies to identify soil issues. This reduces a lot of hard work and time needed to put in this task.
Some Other Applications
Use the drone for obtaining multispectral images of the agricultural land. Multispectral images reveal a somewhat IR view as well as a visual spectrum view. The combination shows the farmer the differences between healthy and unhealthy plants, a difference not always clearly visible to the naked eye. Thus, these views can assist in assessing crop growth and production as mentioned earlier.
It’s true that the sky is not the limit. So this applies to drone technologies too. As using drone technology can help us identify drought-prone land and help us prevent the upcoming horrific event.
After going through all the points above, You must have understood how drones can have a huge impact on the farming industry. If I’m not wrong in the next 4-5 years, We’ll see a huge surge in drone use for agricultural purposes.
|EXPECTED INCREASE IN DRONE USAGE (AGRICULTURE SECTOR)


Related to mint and with a similar appearance Melissa officinalis is commonly known as Lemon Balm and often simply Balm. It is easy to grow from seedlings in the home garden.
This is a herb that has been used for 1000s of years and as the common name suggests is used as a calming herb.
The essential oils are extracted by distillation and then mixed with a carrier oil to create the balm.
A number of varieties of Lemon Balm are available including
- M. officinalis ‘Lime’ – More of a lime fragrance.
- M. officinalis ‘Quedlinburger Niederliegende’ which is said to have a higher oil content.
- M. officinalis ‘variegata’ – Variegated foliage.
How to grow Lemon Balm
In a frost free area this is very a very easy to grow. You can plant seedlings in spring, or start plants off from seed in winter indoors.
This is a plant likes a well drained humus rich soil. It grows well in full sun to part shade and plants need to plated at around 30 cm (12 inches) apart.
Good drainage is essential, although watering during very dry summers will be required.
The plant does tend spread by underground runners and we suggest growing it in containers to control its spread.
An annual tidy up by pruning back in early spring will keep the plant growing well and promote a bushy habit.
Lemon Balm plants are available for sale from the following nurseries
Little Hampton, Vic 345
"Mail order nursery specialising in cottage garden perennials, flowering shrubs, Trilliums, Hostas and Pacific Coast Iris. Flat rate express postage - Except WA & TAS"


Jose Buono Philodendron needs bright light to grow healthy and shining leaves. The size and texture of its leaves depend on light, water, fertilizer, and other care factors.
You can easily grow and maintain Jose Buono even if you never grow a philodendron before in your life.
Today you’ll know how to grow a healthy Philodendron Jose Buono and how to maintain its good health for years.
I’ll cover basic and advanced growing tips with propagation methods and common problems.
About Philodendron Jose Buono
Philodendron Jose Buono is an evergreen rare philodendron plant. It has heart-shaped velvety leaves with or without variegation.
This climber philodendron belongs to tropical jungles. It is a large plant with 12 feet in height and 3 to 4 feet spread.
Unfortunately, you can only find taller Philodendron Jose Buono plants in tropical jungles.
When we grow them at home due to changes in their natural growing habitat. Jose Buono only reaches to 3-meter height with 15 to 24 inches long and 9 to 11 inches wide leaves.
Remember that this is the general size of Jose Buono. The actual size depends upon the growing conditions and care techniques.
You should use a moss pole for this climber plant to encourage it to produce large size leaves and grow taller.
I have 2 jose Buono plants one is 2 feet tall whereas the young plant with the support of a moss pole is almost 4.2 feet tall.
When we give support to plants, they save the energy that they spend to hold their structure. Then they use this saved energy to produce more leaves and grow taller.
This philodendron plant does not produce flowers and you don’t have to prune it frequently.
Philodendron Jose Buono has 3 types of leaf patterns:
- One with Red Veins on dark green leaves is called Philodendron Jose Buono red.
- The second variety has purple veins and is called Philodendron Jose Buono purple.
- The third variety of Philodendron Jose Buono has no special veins or lines on leaves, only heart-shaped green foliage.
How to Grow Philodendron Jose Buono?
Philodendron Jose Buono needs moist soil for proper growth and shining velvety leaves. Give it plenty of light along with clean water and a few ounces of fertilizer to boost its health.
Below are the growing tips for a healthy Jose Buono:
Like in tropical jungles, Philodendron Jose Buono needs indirect bright light for photosynthesis. The plant is able to carry out photosynthesis even in low light.
But because we want our Jose Buono to grow attractive and tall. It is best to expose it to bright indirect light.
My Philodendron Jose Buono is growing happily on the east-facing window. It enjoys morning sunlight for a few hours. Then filtered light for the rest of the day.
Roughly it needs 7 to 8 hours of light per day which is sufficient to keep it alive and healthy.
Do not expose your plant to direct sunlight. As this will result in yellow and pale scorch leaves.
It is hard to reverse the sun damage in philodendron plants. Therefore, decide the plant location first then buy it from the garden store.
Watering Philodendron Jose Buono
Jose Buono Philodendron is a water-sensitive houseplant. This means it cannot tolerate excessive amounts of water even in the summer season.
To water tropical plants like Jose Buono always check the soil condition at first.
If the soil is moist, no need to water your plant. But if the soil feels dry, give some water to your Jose Buono.
Slowly pour the water so that the soil can easily absorb it. Once you see the water dripping out of the drainage hole.
Immediately stop pouring water and leave your plant to drain all the extra amount of water.
After 30 minutes comes back and empty the bottom tray and place it back under the pot. You are done with watering Philodendron.
Follow this method for 365 days regardless of the season of the year. If you don’t want to see water-related problems in your plant.
Best Water for Jose Buono Philodendron
The quality of water is important to prevent water-related issues and root diseases. In my experience, the best water is filtered water for watering plants.
Because it does not contain heavy substances like copper, chlorine, and fluoride. These are harmful to philodendron plants.
They get collected at the bottom of the pot and stick to the roots. Roots stop functioning properly which affects the overall health of philodendrons.
Your plant becomes weak and leaves shrink their size due to the limited amount of water. Weak photosynthesis is also a result of the low amount of water in leaves.
Therefore, to prevent all these problems always use clean and filtered water for watering your Philo. Jose Buono.
Quick-draining soil works best to grow Philodendron Jose Buono as a houseplant.
Choose potting soil that has perlite and peat in it. You should also add some ounces of compost to increase the nutritional value of the soil.
Remember that the pH should be between 6.5 to 7.2 pH. Below or above this range will directly affect the nutrient absorption rate of the roots.
My soil formula for Jose Buono:
Perlite + Peat + General purpose soil + Home-made compost
This formula is light in weight and there are many other light weights ready-to-use potting soils available on Amazon.
Light Weight Potting soil not only increases the air circulation in the root zone. It also reduces the soil pressure on roots.
Gives enough room for roots to grow easily and also prevents root-bound.
55 to 80 degrees F is the ideal temperature range for Philodendron Jose Buono. At low temperatures, the water stored in leaf cells starts to freeze.
This breaks the cell walls and results in brown spots on leaves.
Whereas the high temperature burns the leaf tips and turns them brown. If your plant has brown leaf tips and dry soil.
This means it is suffering from a hot temperature. Move it to a normal temperature room and give it some water.
Your plant will heal itself in a few days but the brown tips will never turn green.
To help your plant heal fast cut the brown tips. This will destroy the beauty of your plant but unfortunately, it is the only way to save other parts of the leaves from turning brown.
High temperature also increases dehydration and underwatering problems.
Keep the humidity anywhere between 40 % to 60 %. Jose Buono Philodendron is a tropical plant and cannot survive in low humidity.
The general home humidity is between 40 to 55 % which is all good for this plant.
To know about the humidity of your grow room. You need to use the hygrometer to measure it.
It is an inexpensive device used to measure relative humidity. To make humidity stable use the pebble tray method.
Take a tray and fill it with small rocks and add water. Then place it under the plant pot and you are done.
The evaporating water from the tray gives nice comfort to your dry plant.
The Second and advanced option is a plant humidifier. This device is a one-time investment and can save your costly plants on low-humid days.
Fill it with water, turn it ON and place it next to your Philodendron Jose Buono. It will increase the room humidity in a few minutes.
Place all your plants in one room and use a plant humidifier to save all plants.
Fertilizing Philodendron Jose Buono
Fertilization is a must to avoid nutrient deficiencies in young Philodendron Jose Buono plants.
General-purpose houseplant fertilizer is best to use. It has all the essential nutrients in balanced quantity.
Dilute as per the instructions and give it to the plant. You will see a nice health boost right after 24 hours of fertilization.
If you find it costly for you to use houseplant fertilizers.
Then to save some money you can use compost in the soil formula. Compost is rich in nitrogen and regularly supplies essential nutrients to the plant.
This way you can reduce the fertilization expenses and buy another plant with the saved money.
Philodendron jose Buono is a tropical plant which means it needs moist soil for its entire life. Jose Buono cannot tolerate dry conditions for a long time.
This will result in dehydrated philodendron jose. The shining leaves will turn yellow and brown.
Therefore, keep the right level of moisture in the potting soil.
Like other philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate. This substance is toxic to humans and animals. When someone ingested the plant parts.
The calcium oxalates get activated in the stomach and cause stomach pain, sore mouth, vomiting, etc.
Immediately call the poison control center. In the meantime, wash your hands and mouth with clean water.
No frequent pruning is required to keep it in good shape. Philodendron Jose Buono produces large size leaves and only prunes them when they get damaged.
Trim the brown tips and yellow leaves.
Remove the leaves that are infected with a disease. This will keep healthy parts of the plant safe and prevent the further spread of disease.
Use sharp and sterilized trimming tools to cut and remove the Jose Buono parts.
I use rubbing alcohol to sterilize my knife and shears. Also, wear gloves to avoid contact with the sap of the plant.
Repot your plant when you think your plant is root bound. In root-bound conditions, you see some visible roots on the top surface of the soil.
The soil quickly becomes drier than normal.
Lift your plant and inspect the bottom hole. If you see roots growing out of the drainage hole this means roots need more space to grow.
Your current plant pot is small for them.
- Take a new 2 inches deep and wider pot than the current pot.
- Use fresh soil and fill the pot to its half. Gently unpot your plant and remove the soil that is attached to the roots.
- You can use water to remove the old soil. Inspect the roots for any damage. Cut the damaged part with sharp tools and place Jose Buono in a new plant pot.
- Fill the remaining portion of the new pot with fresh soil and gently tap around the plant.
- Don’t forget about the moss pole.
- Give some water to keep the soil moist. Repotting philodendrons gives new life to old and mature plants.
Propagating Jose Buono Philodendron
Seed propagation of Jose Buono is tuff and needs expertise in germinating seeds. The stem cutting propagation is the easiest method.
Below are the stem propagation steps:
- Identify the healthy stem with disease-free leaves.
- Cut the 5 to 6 inches long stem with 2 to 3 leaves at the top part only.
- Remove the bottom leaves they are not required for propagation
- Dip the cut in the rooting hormone and place the cutting in a glass of water.
- Place this glass in a humid place, away from direct sunlight.
- Indirect light is enough for the development of roots.
- Change the water of the glass once it gets unclear.
- The stem will grow roots in 15 to 20 days.
- Once the roots become more than 1 inch long, you can transfer the cutting into the potting soil.
- Choose the same well-draining soil and follow the regular care routine.
Common Pests and Problems
Mealy bugs and scales are the enemies. Generally, Philodendron Jose Buono is pest resistant. But when you place it in unhygienic conditions. This increases the chances of pest attacks.
Pests like the plant’s glucose they suck all the glucose if you do not fix the problem on time.
Before fixing it, you need to identify it quickly.
To identify the problem. Inspect your plant in each watering session. Lift the plant leaves and check the undersides.
If the pests are present, immediately separate your jose buono from other plants. Use rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth to wipe leaves.
This will kill them instantly. But if they are present in a large population. Then use insecticidal soap and rinse your plant with clean water.
Then allow it to drain extra water and keep it separate until you see healthy growth.
To prevent pest attacks, use neem oil spray once in 20 days on all your plants.
Root rot is the result of overwatering the philodendron potting soil. The absence of a drainage hole doubles the chances of root fungus.
To identify it, smell the potting soil if it smells like decaying garbage and the soil is also wet. This ensures the presence of root fungus bacteria.
- Gently unpot your plant, remove the soil from the roots, and cut the damaged roots.
- Throw the old soil and wash the plant pot. Fill it with new soil and plant your Jose Buono in it.
- Give some water and place it in indirect sunlight for its good health.
- To prevent root rot always follow the soil check technique before watering Jose Buono.
There are two causes of it one is the excessive amount of water in the soil. This damage the roots and as a result, the leaves turn yellow because damaged roots become unable to transport water and nutrients.
The second cause is dehydration or underwatering. Yellow leaves are the first sign of dehydration followed by brown leaves.
Identify the cause and follow the solutions suggested in this post.
Leggy Jose Buono
Low light is the only cause of leggy Philodendron Jose Buono. It needs plenty of light for photosynthesis. In low light, the plant stretches itself towards the light source to absorb as much as light it can.
This gives it a leggy appearance with few leaves than normal.
Adjust the light condition and your plant become healthy and normal in a month.
Philodendron Jose Buono is a nice foliage plant and needs bright light and moist soil to grow. Use neem oil to protect it from pest attacks.
It is nice to bring it home if you are interested in philodendron foliage plants.
Jose Buono adds nice green touch to an indoor environment.


Mostly, I cut into the ground with a spade, lift up the earth by an inch or so and let it drop. The contrast of the white paper will let you easily see any bug living in the soil. Section by section, I've removed everything, scraped up all dirt, even washed rocks, and replaced it all only to see more weeds within a few months. The best plants that fit this are blueberries, other ground covering evergreens (like juniper). Also, try to keep the area moist, and fertilize it with a high-phosphorus seed-starting fertilizer. You can find plenty of resources in books or online to tell you what it should be depending on what you want to plant. I wanted a step-down tier layer. Cover Crops and Rotation Planting Replanting an area with cover crops helps stimulate the soil with lost nutrients. It's a nice way of draining water away from your downspout without having to have a big long downspout. I had an area that was "super dead" as it lived underneath some pine trees, and not even dandelions lived there. In order to quickly revive it, place the pot in a sink filled with room temperature water. Be sure to press the seed into the dirt … Moss requires no maintenance at all. Most communities have a free call before you dig service who will come out and mark your yard for underlying cables. ; Plant pathogens can stay in the soil potting mix for years, continuing to reinfect plants. Bacterial or Fungal Infection. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. ... Aerate or rough up the soil. Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. You must fill the space surrounding the roots with this medium as well as add a layer on top without covering the orchid leaves. Just remember to water it a lot for it to keep. Sod can recover after sitting in a stack, but sod will seat best if it's laid out shortly after it's delivered. e.g. I will try the burn, baby, burn technique. These resemble push mowers and feature circular blades that slice the soil before depositing seed directly into it. To thrive, gardenias require well-drained, acidic soil with a pH range of 5.0 to 6.0. If the soil is hard, compacted, cracked and dry, inadequate water is probably the issue. For my river bed I used rainbow rock. A plant’s home is its container or garden bed, so dig around in the soil for evidence. When it is all tilled up take out a large level (and/or put it on a large 2x4) and triple check that water will drain away from your house. Leave the pots in the sink for at least an hour (some plants might take longer). Soak test: Mix 4 tablespoons of dish soap into 1 gallon of water. Share it with us! It kills by contact with the foliage, more delicate weeds will show signs of wilting in a few hours and may be dead in 24 hours. Affiliate Links: Your support of this site is appreciated! One thing I did do with the cedar 2x4s is I took a steel rod (used for re-inforcing concrete), drilled a hole through the wall, and pounded them into the ground to help ensure they wouldn't shift over time (and they haven't). Low Phosphorous: Do your plants look purple?They are likely low in phosphorous. I took this picture after it was halfway laid. my yard would not grow grass to speak of but moss did just fine on old hard soil. Air Force's Secret New Fighter Comes With R2-D2, Mathematician Solves the Infamous Goat Problem, Three Asteroids to Fly Past Earth on Christmas Day, In 1944, POWs Got a Great X-Mas Gift—An Escape Map. Weed out problems. The only way to ensure weed-free is to use herbicides, which I dislike because all runoff eventually ends in creeks and rivers. After loosening it to allow for better breathability and penetration, spread seed (and compost if needed) so that they land firmly in the soil you tilled. Unruh notes, “It is essential that the soil is tilled to a depth of 5 to 6 inches making sure to incorporate all the existing vegetation.” Once the unwanted vegetation is dead, if you aren’t dealing with an entire yard of dead, thick grass, you can simply till it down and into the soil, as there’s no need to rake it from the site. Till the soil to a depth of 5 or 6 inches. Grass is very resilient however it can be frustrating when you want to revive your grass fast. The rock river looked great for the first two-three years. Live in an older yard? When tilling the yard it's not a bad idea to check with the local utilities and call before you dig. Nice car, is that a Barracuda? I usually go out back and kill of a couple of unwanted plants at a time. Plants that are over-watered appear wilted and may have brown or yellow leaves that make it look dead but with very moist soil. If it's from the bottom up you could try laying down plastic underneath the rocks if you haven't tried that yet, or maybe a deeper depth.When I re-did my front yard, I did the dry creek bed quite differently than what I did in my backyard (which is this set of pictures). The trees that killed part of my lawn weren't going away for a while, so knowing that I made a bog, and planted plants tolerant to that (acidic, shady). But when is the best time? Nice work! Sure, it's true that late summer and early fall are the ideal times to rejuvenate a patchy or threadbare lawn. Make sure that there is an angle so that the water will drain away from your house. Work over the lawn in two passes, making the second application diagonally at 45 degrees over the first. - water it like all heck in the evening and weekend. How we test gear. However, there … produces lots of organic detritus for weed seeds to root. There was a surplus of needles from the trees, so I used that to my advantage. Reviving a plant from bacterial or fungal infection is much trickier than … This seemed to be enough for the next steps, which was roto-tilling the dead soil with the new. That will add beneficial microorganisms into the soil to aid in further decomposition of the other organic matter you've added. How to revive a dead plant, step 2: Think about the water. 5. Knock the pot on the edge of a table and run a knife around the rootball. Don't mix "cut up dead branches" into the soil. The next important step in reviving a dying lawn is tilling the soil, which helps aerate it. Sweep or blow excess fertilizer from paved surfaces back onto the lawn and thoroughly water it immediately after applyingbut don't overwater and create runoff. Finally, never forget to test the soil pH! … All kinds of weeds from dandelions to loco weed to muscadine grape vines. Pour the solution into the 1-foot area within the problem area, and wait for about 15 minutes. This isn't as expensive as it seems, and once you realize how cheap a truckload of dirt is you'll never pay for a bag of dirt at your local home improvement store again. Chop the long strips of sod into manageable 1- to 2-foot-long sections with a spade, then scoop them into a wheelbarrow… Any green, flexible stems make it likely you can revive your plant. Then, add a 6-8 inch thick layer of straw or chopped dry leaves, and top with a final thick layer of compost or manure. Use a rake to remove dead grass and roughen the soil, then apply new seed with a drop or rotary spreader. Watering the fertilizer into the ground starts the feeding process, and it prevents loose fertilizer from washing into lakes and streams, where it promotes algal blooms that suffocate fish and other species. I have a much bigger dry creek bed, 50 ft x 4 ft, to deal with major runoff because I live in an area that often deals with multi-inch rainfalls over 1-3 days. This took about a summer of evenings to do with 1 adult person. :). Since then, it is a battle each year to remove weeds and eroded dirt. What every blows in or is dropped by the birds. Filling the patches of dead grass can be easier compared to replacing full lawns. Forgot to add "Sod... loads and loads of sod," to the list of things you'll need. My ground was so hard that a rototiller would not cut it at first. At Leaf & Limb, we believe that healthy soil is the foundation for happy trees and shrubs. Water a thirsty plant. I'm writing these instructions 5+ years after the photos, and the planks are still going strong. A more organic weed killer is boiled water. Here’s how to revive dead patches of grass: Pull weeds or use herbicide to remove unwanted plants from your yard. Mix your new soil (or compost) with your old soil. Don't let the crop go to seed. No problem, this was my backyard, and I fixed it. Our back dry creek bed (the one in this instructable) also fills with weeds quickly, but our front does not. Here are 10 indications of bad soil and how to fix the problem. But even though you missed your chance last year, that doesn't mean you have to put up with a lousy-looking lawn all summer. Yes... you need a lot. Gardenias grown in alkaline soil will have difficulty obtaining the nutrients the shrub needs to thrive.. You can also test your soil with a soil … Here is how to revive dead grass fast. This first area in the picture got a full soil turnover, and a healthy dose of peat moss pales, some coconut fibre, and lots and lots of cut up dead branches. Your local landscape supply store will sell you dirt, or compost. If your soil is dead like mine was you'll need more of a compost mix. Second Prize in the Before and After Contest 2016, Runner Up in the Brave the Elements Contest. I would suggest the strategic use of a cover crop for a few weeks - an annual legume, such as Crimson Clover, with the seed inoculated with our micronized BEIM product can fairly quickly restore soil health. I chose cedar because it doesn't rot quickly, and wanted to avoid the chemicals in pressure treated wood. If your grass is dead, you will need to start over again. Are the weeds growing from the bottom up, or growing near the top of the rocks? If half or more of the lawn looks decent, chances are good you can whip it back into shapebut get an early start. However, much of the ground in urban areas and around our houses is actually lifeless dirt. Finally, the day after you're done sodding, a wind storm will knock a pine tree into your freshly sodded yard. - a shwackload of sod (measure to your yard). Whereas my backyard the dry creek was only a few inches deep and thinner plastic. Reply Insects such as spider mites, fruit … Make sure that both layers still angle away from your house to ensure that rainwater and runoff does not pool near your house. Reseed dead … Once the top of the soil starts to feel wet, you can take out the pot. If a construction project has left your soil lacking fertility or you desire to increase your present soil’s fertility… As one who has restored extremely dead soil in my yard, I'd offer some other tips. This is nature’s way and this is what we should aim for. Find Out if the Plant is Actually Dead First. Break Up Soil Turn the top 6 to 8 inches of soil with a spade or hoe. Merle's here to help you diagnose what's the matter with your plant and how to bring it back to LIFE! Give it a water or wait for rain. 1/20. The next step in repairing damaged soil is to make sure all the lovely nutrients you added don’t get washed away by erosion. I found I could place my order ahead of time. Mix in a light dusting of lime and gypsum and 1 tablespoon of slow-release fertilizer for every gallon of soil you have. Works a charm. Beyond peat and other fine particulate decomposed organic material, utilize manure. Have you had any problems with disease in the pot? For the rest of the summer, follow typical healthy-lawn practices: Raise the mower up to the highest setting, mow with a sharp blade, mulch whenever possible to return nitrogen-rich grass clippings back to the lawn, and provide about 1 inch of water per week to the lawn. The ragged edges around the dry creek only took about a week to smooth themselves out as they grew in. Additionally, add gypsum to the soil to help break up compacted soil if it's high in clay content or you live in a coastal climate where there is excess salt. - plant your plants ( in my case mostly blueberries ). Follow these simple steps to bring life back to dry dead soil… The plot my house was on was over 50 years old, and the soil was dead, hard, and grey. (just take the bottom of an office chair, and whip up a quick digger on top with dowels and 2x4 scraps ). It's worth noting that a brown lawn isn't always a dead lawn. The most effective way to reseed is to use a slit seeder. This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. Do this everywhere because your eye will trick you. I threw in a few walking onion plants... because they're fun. Also, thanks for the additional tip, Pieterv22. Low Nitrogen: If your plant leaves (low on the plant itself) are discoloring and falling off the soil is likely low in Nitrogen.Adding compost to the soil is an organic way to fix this issue. The extent of the bed makes for a lot of work to hand clear it. I then used a wheelbarrow to haul the dirt into the yard, and then smoothed it all out with a rake. After the sod is laid out, your backyard will look awesome. Quick Tips to Revive Your Lawn for Spring, How to Pick the Right Mower for Your Lawn, 5 of the Most Decadent, High-Tech Lawn Mowers (You Can Buy), Fall Lawn Care : 6 Steps to Take Right Now. If that's the case, and its root structure is sound, it will green up following a few spring showers. - time. It's kind of like mixing dry ingredients … If you're in the same boat as me, then grab a spade, lots of water, and start digging. The water should be about half way up either side of the pot. Till it under when it blooms … salt and soil? Transform dead dirt into healthy soil using these tried-and-true methods. Add high phosphate fertilizer. You'd be surprised how close to the surface they can be. Find out more about how to revive dead grass below! I used a lot of branches (mostly) and old mulch. Get your son to mix it all up with a cool digger while you dig up the rest of the yard. Mix till the salt is dissolved, then apply to the weeds. Great work, the tree part in the end made me laugh, sorry about that tree though. Great comment. My dry river drains into my blueberry bog. - cover with ground cover material ( I bought fabric, but you can use cardboard ). I just used cedars 2x4s. I hand-dug the beds — which means I dug out the soil, added more soil and fertilizer, and then mixed the fertilizer and new and old soil together. Its first post is a handy one—tips on how to help revive a struggling garden. The new grass then gets a jump on weeds the following spring, crowding them out before they have a chance to gain a foothold. Remember to fertilize responsibly. Fungal and bacterial diseases can be a problem. Feel how light it is and then smell the sweet earthy aroma of healthy soil. But the flow of water, wind, decomp, etc. The lining is a heavy woven ground cloth, which does make for firmly anchored roots, but the real issue is the erosion of dirt into the creek bed. Some turfgrasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, go dormant during a drought. I have not had a chance to try it yet, but she has and said to be careful not to get it on desirable plants. My sister gave me a recipe for an organic weed killer. Step 1 – Water the plant and leave it for an hour. The plot my house was on was over 50 years old, and the soil was dead, hard, and grey. Soil temperatures are high, which leads to quick germination of grass seeds, especially tall fescue. They take far too long to decompose once buried to offer any benefit and have the same effect of rocks - impeding root growth. you're going to wind up with a lawn in which absolutely nothing can grow at some point. This will help to give the seeds a good start, and to loosen the soil. The best way to revive your lawn is feed it and water it regularly. If drought, bad soil, or other ailments have left your lawn in a sad state, you can revive it. Our home experts weigh in. There are several methods for restoring old or dead soil, including the use of cover crops and limestone. - layer with as much humus and organic material as you can. Start with a layer of newspaper or cardboard, wet it down, and add a thin layer of compost or manure. Go for it. The next time you’re in a forest, push aside the leaves and dig down to get a handful of dirt. I ordered a truckload of dirt, and got it dumped before the fence. If your soil is in fairly healthy shape, go for dirt. Thanks for sharing. Rake out dead grass. Have a dead lawn? Step 2 … If your soil is real sandy you don't need to do this however. Get ready to dig even more out with your spade if the tiller cannot get into your old soil. No dirt, no weeds. You have some of that stuff left over from cooking anyway. Popular Mechanics participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. The soil should also be rich in organic matter and kept moist but not wet. We took advantage of the call before you dig as well in our area. Remove any old roots. First, determine how severe the damage is. Before planting your new grass seeds, rough up the soil a little bit or put on some aeration shoes and walk across your yard. I suspect the deeper depth, and thicker plastic helped.What kind of weeds are growing in yours? Growing only dandelions? Here is what I did, and you can learn from my failures and successes. You can begin a new lawn by raking the dead grass (and any turf that comes with it) up so that you’re left with just the soil. But until then, look among the brown, straw-like grass for any surviving green shoots that signal there's life in your old lawn yet. Dethatch the lawn to promote the circulation of air, water, and nutrients to the soil underneath this layer of decomposing plant material. Now is the time to add it in before the sod goes in. In retrospect this step was probably not necessary. The following steps will help you in going about the process of reviving dead lawn; Rake up the dead grass so that you are left with soil only; Loosen the soil to allow better aeration and nutrient penetration Remove the plant from the pot. A dry river bed in the context of a yard only has water when it rains, otherwise.... well it's dry. Thank you. Did you make this project? Use a rake to remove dead grass and roughen the soil, then apply new seed with a drop or rotary spreader. 4 years ago. Safety first. All it wants is a little sun and moisture once in a while it is green and looks great. Repot if needed, then lightly fertilize and wait. Patches of dead grass can spoil the look and feel of your entire lawn. The grass every year tries to go into the rocks. The main particles in healthy soil are decomposed organic/natural ingredients and living organisms. Pretty easy, the time consuming part was lifting the rocks. Cut back the dead stem, then check the base for good aeration and a good potting mix. Taking Care of the Plant's Leaves Wipe pests off of the plant. Green Living 20 Hacks That Will Bring Your Dead (or … A few cover crops that restore degraded soil include rye, clover and oats. different types of root rot.Plants can be susceptible to further infection if the potting mix is re-used. If you're resigned to the fact that less than half the lawn is salvageable, try to make it as presentable as you can through the summer, and then start over in the fall. The tide is starting to turn though with more and more gardeners going organic and learning how to revive soil. For my front, it was about a 1ft deep * 2ft wide ( * 30ft long), I laid down a thicker plastic. Be sure to press the seed into the dirt with either a lawn roller or gentle, evenly spaced footsteps. Step 1: Start Digging (and Before Pics) My ground was so hard that a rototiller would not cut it at first. You can adjust pH by adding sulfur (to lower soil pH, or make it more acidic) or Dolomite Lime (to raise pH, or make it more alkaline). I need a new idea. Break up any large clods as you loosen the soil. The soil was acidic, but collected a lot of rainwater, so I decided to turn it into a mini bog. Lessons learned: account for a bit more waste than you'd normally expect. Any bugs will appear on the top of the soil. If you're in the same boat as me, then grab a spade, lots of water, and start digging. How To Revive a Struggling Garden In a series of guest posts, San Francisco's Academy of Art University will lend its landscape architecture knowledge to Garden Design. The more natural ingredients in the soil, the better moisture retention and healthier soil. Cutting around the corners and existing structures was pretty darn easy, and can be done with an old steak knife. Learn from my mistake: make this wider than what I did. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io, How to Keep Your Christmas Tree Fresh for Longer, The Best Leaf Mulchers for Fall Lawn Clearing, Best Garden Hoses for More Than Just Your Garden. Don’t use the regular potting soil for orchids as they require well-draining media along with plenty of air pockets to bloom and flourish. Not a bad idea to check with the local utilities and call before you dig as well add! A bit more waste than you 'd normally expect and i fixed it to into! Soil for evidence tablespoons of dish soap into 1 gallon of water in order to quickly revive it a on. Directly into it deeper depth, and wanted to avoid the chemicals in pressure treated wood what every blows or. Office chair, and got it dumped before the sod goes in enough for the additional,. 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Patchy or threadbare lawn mix for years, continuing to reinfect plants... because they 're fun a in... What i did, and i fixed it hard that a rototiller would not cut it at.. Cover crops that restore degraded soil include rye, clover and oats will need to do everywhere! And how to bring it back to LIFE over 50 years old, start! Online to tell you what it should be about half way up either side of the plant this are,... The end made me laugh, sorry about that tree though i cut into the soil should be! Creeks and rivers mostly, i 'd offer some other tips at 45 degrees over the lawn which! ; plant pathogens can stay in the soil for evidence quick digger on top without the! Keep the area moist, and the soil before depositing seed directly into it a yard has! Then grab a spade, lots of organic detritus for weed seeds to root an or. These instructions 5+ years after the photos, and whip up a quick digger top... Can Find plenty of resources in books or online to tell you what should. It can be done with an old steak knife dig service how to revive dead soil will come out and mark yard. By the birds the next time you ’ re in a forest, push the... During a drought pour the solution into the soil, then check the base good., try to keep the area moist, and the planks are still going strong lost! By an inch or so and let it drop 're in the end made me laugh, sorry about tree... Measure to your yard for underlying cables this seemed to be enough for the next time you ’ in... Are decomposed organic/natural ingredients and living how to revive dead soil least an hour steps, which leads to quick germination grass... Some point to have a big long downspout more and more gardeners going organic learning! To aid in further decomposition of the lawn looks decent, chances are good you how to revive dead soil take the. Not even dandelions lived there dandelions to loco weed to muscadine grape vines back! In fairly healthy shape, go for dirt or threadbare lawn problem, this my... Normally expect of needles from the bottom of an office chair, and onto... Angle so that the water some point then apply new seed with a in. Cover crops and Rotation Planting Replanting an area with cover crops and Rotation Planting Replanting area... The one in this instructable ) also fills with weeds quickly, but collected a lot of,! The chemicals in pressure treated wood will help to give the seeds a good start, and can! Mark your yard for underlying cables step 1 – water the plant is actually first! To check with the new existing structures was pretty darn easy, and nutrients the. I then used a lot of branches ( mostly ) and old how to revive dead soil... Dead '' as it lived underneath some pine trees, so i used that to my advantage any and... Mix your new soil ( or compost even dandelions lived there you do n't need to do this.. Lightly fertilize and wait is re-used blows in or is dropped by the.... Passes, making the second application diagonally at 45 degrees over the lawn to promote the circulation of air water.


|I have a boxwood hedge that is becoming very crowded. I can easily dig up and transplant the shrubs, but I wanted to extend the hedgerow. Is it possible to divide boxwood? What is the best procedure? Shoud it be done in the spring or fall? I wanted to do it while the plants are still dormant in my zone 5 garden.
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|It's difficult to divide a boxwood, but very easy to propagate the shrubs either through tip cuttings or the process of layering. Mound layering is a simple procedure; bend one of the branches down so part of it makes contact with the soil. Make a small notch in the underside of the branch and hold the wound open with a small rock or piece of toothpick. Place the wounded branch area on the soil and mound additional soil over the top to anchor the branch in the soil. Roots will grow from the wounded area and a new stem will grow from one of the nodes. Once the roots have formed, generally in about 3-4 months, the branch can be cut from the parent plant. You can also try tip layering, in which one of the branch tips is gently pulled down and buried in soil. Roots will form and a new stem will emerge. Again, this takes several months to accomplish. Another propagation technique is to take several cuttings from the boxwood. Choose new shoots at the ends of branches that are still soft and pliable, and cut them from the parent plant. The cuttings should be about 6 inches long. Use a razor blade to make a clean cut, and try not to flatten the stem as you cut it. Remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and place each cutting into moistened potting soil or seed starting mix. Place the cuttings in a shady spot outdoors. Keep the potting soil moist, and mist the cuttings every morning. When they've rooted you'll see new stem and leaf growth.


Artificial grass was first installed in 1964 on a school recreation area. Soon artificial grass gained popularity in the 1960s when it was used in Houston’s newly constructed Astrodome. The state-of-the-art indoor stadium had first wanted to use natural grass during its initial season in 1965, but this failed and the field conditions were grossly inadequate during the second half of the season, with the dead grass painted green. Due to a limited supply of the new artificial grass, only the infield was installed before the Houston Astros’ home opener in April 1966, the outfield was installed in early summer during an extended Astros road trip and first used after the All-Star Break in July.
The second generation and third generation artificial grass systems have replaced with systems were of short-pile fibers without any real infill. Artificial grass keeps getting better and hitter with each generation. The second generation of artificial grass featured longer fibers and sand infills, and third generation systems, which are widely used today, offer infills that are mixtures of sand and granules of recycled ingredients.
Recent installations of artificial grass have included new advancements that serve both economic and environmental needs. Another recent developments have been a hybrid of filled turf and biological grass. Once artificial turf is installed, it is filled not with rubber or sand, but with soil. Grass seed is then planted in the soil, nurtured and grown to a height above that of the artificial turf. The resulting combination combines the feel, look, and comfort of biological turf with the resilience and resistance to tearing and divots of artificial turf. Of course, it also requires all the maintenance of both systems, and it is not suitable for most indoor applications.
Remember that taking care of a natural grass yard healthy costs you money and time. For example, watering your lawn makes up approximately 70% of your water bill each month. Fertilizers keep the grass green but not the inner pocket of your wallet. Lawn maintenance services are convenient but certainly not cheap. If you don’t have a service then you lose your free time on the weekends, pay high fuel prices and maintain expensive lawn equipment. What is that worth? It’s time to cut your high water bills, lose the expenses of maintenance and fire the lawn service. It’s time for Synthetic Grass Pro for your landscape.


Scott & Suzonne McGregor from Mulberry: We bought another cantaloupe but we finally cut up the cantaloupe last week. We just wanted you to know that was the best we ever had. Delicious. Just wanted you to know!
Linda from Auburndale: "I'm so excited that they opened their farm stand here in Auburndale. I just got home with some amazing veggies. I moved down here in 1981 from Missouri. ...and I have never found a tomato that even comes close to the ones I had there as a child. I will search no more. I just ate the best tomato I have ever eaten in my life, and I got it at the Bilbrey Family Farm."
Crystal from Orlando: "I recently moved to Orlando for a teaching job, and I drive to see the Bilbreys to get my organic fruits and vegetables. There simply is no replacement for locally grown, organic, fresh picked fruits vegetables grown with love and care. The Bilbreys are wonderful people and farmers, and I couldn't recommend their CSA or farm stand more highly.
Lovely people; lovely food! Thank you so much for moving your farm stand to the farm itself. It's such a beautiful, enjoyable experience to come to the farm itself. May the New Year bring you joy and bountiful crops, Carol and Roger."
Chris G from Frostproof: "Super yummy veggies and fruits and wonderful customer service. If you want fresh, delicious, non-GMO veggies fresh from their farm, I highly suggest Bilbrey Family Farm! Eat local."
Isabelle B from Lakeland: "This is a great farm! What a nice couple! The vegetables are BEAUTIFUL!!! They taste great too! As a juicer and vegan, I sincerely appreciate the quality of these veggies and all the hard work and dedication behind them! Thank you!!!"
Marylayne in Polk City: "I enjoy shopping at their seasonal farm stand knowing that I am buying directly from the person who raised the veggies I buy for my family. Picked daily, a variety of beautiful organically grown vegetables available weekly."
Jennifer M from Mulberry: "Awesome Produce!! Carol and Rodger have the best veggies and are the nicest Farmers I know... check them out at the Lakeland Farmers Market!"
Chris R from Winter Haven: "Thought I would drop a note to see when you think that BFF will be up and running? Can't wait for some really fresh veggies. The patty pan squash was great along with the mixed squash. The cucumbers really tasted like cucumbers and tomatoes are wonderful!!! Please keep me posted on when you guys can start supplying us again. We are really looking forward to it!!!!"
J & A K from Auburndale: "Bilbrey Farm vegetables are wonderful. The zucchini, yellow squash and cucumbers were fresh, clean and oh so very good! Thank you, Bilbrey Farms!!"
Cheryl W from Winter Haven: "I have enjoyed Rodger's vegetables for so many years now and always look forward to his tomatoes, cukes and greens."
RL from Auburndale says: From MN in Lakeland:


I became interested in SIPs because the idea of using less water appealed to me. With traditional container gardening it would be necessary to water a couple of times a day in a climate such as the one I live in. This year we have had 80 days of over 100 degrees and because of that very frequent watering would be necessary with other types of vegetable gardens.
Pity the peppers up front...weak, yellowing, and probably thirsty.
The ones in the foreground, in the raised beds, were planted the same day in early Sept. as the ones in the SIPs behind them. The 2 plants in the SIPs were about 3 times as large and had more peppers per plant. Also, I watered the plants in the raised bed at least twice as frequently. Here in central Texas we have had only one measurable rain since I planted the peppers.
Another aspect that I like about SIPs is that weeding is not necessary. Even though I mulch my raised beds I sometimes have very severe weeding problems. With the SIPs I only had to pull one blade of grass.
After this initial try with the SIPs I can see that they are the way to go in a climate such as we have here.Jerry notes he's raising worms and wonders if he can use the vermicompost in SIPs. The answer is yes, if in limited fashion. Both Bruce and I have added a couple cups of worm castings to our SIPs with good results, so go for it. And thanks, Jerry, for checking in.


When I first heard we were going to be carrying Hardy Kiwi plants this spring, I’ll admit I was a bit hesitant. But after doing some research, these vigorous vines are actually quite simple to grow (even in our zone 5) and the small, sweet fruits are extremely sweet and satisfying!
About the Hardy Kiwi
Hardy Kiwis are also called Kiwi Berries, Hardy Kiwifruit, Grape Kiwi, and Baby Kiwi. The Hardy Kiwi Vine is native to Korea, Japan, Northern China and Russian Siberia. The fruits are very similar to the Kiwifruit but smaller and have smooth, edible skin. They can be eaten whole, without being peeled, and are much sweeter than the Kiwifruit.
Growing Hardy Kiwi
Growing this fruit-producing vine is really quite simple if you’re in hardiness zones 3-9 (find your zone here). First, start with both a male and a female plant. This is a must to produce fruit. We recommend planting at least one male plant for every five female plants that you have. Hardy Kiwi plants prefer full sun and average to well-draining soil.
These vigorous vines produce small, white flowers in the early summer, followed by greenish-yellow fruits in the late summer and into the fall. Be sure to provide support for the large vines and prune regularly, cutting back the non-flowering parts. To harvest the Hardy Kiwifruits, wait as late as possible into the fall once the fruit has ripened. If you’re threatened with frost before the fruit ripens, harvest and ripen the fruits in the refrigerator.
Looking for an easy-care, drought-tolerant perennial to ignite your garden into the autumn months? Sedum, also known as Stonecrop, grows in any sunny spot and each one looks so phenomenally different, you’ll want them all in your garden! We are carrying over 10 new varieties for spring 2014 and have highlighted a few of them below.
Purple Form is extremely easy-to-grow, thriving in any sunny spot. Blue/grey foliage changes to purple in the winter months and elegant pink flowers emerge in late summer.Â
Round, bean-shaped foliage changes from bright green to red in the summer months. This Sedum prefers full sun and is drought-tolerant.Â
From the Sedum Sunsparkler Series, this variety boasts deep, cherry-red foliage in the late summer through fall. Cherry Tart is drought-tolerant and prefers full sun.
This variety of Sedum withstands partial shade and is often the first to bloom in spring, adding elegance to the garden floor with pure-white, star-shaped blooms.
This easy-to-grow groundcover boasts vibrant green foliage with maroon highlights, offsetting rosy-red flowers in the late summer.
This easy-to-grow groundcover creates a lush carpet of foliage with small, light green leaves and soft pink flowers. Perfect for rock walls, this Sedum will grow almost anywhere.
This Sedum gets its name from small, blue leaves that resemble the needles of a blue Spruce. Cheerful yellow flowers emerge in the early summer.
View all of our Sedum here. Happy Gardening!
December 8, 2013
Â· Amanda Shepard Â· 2 Comments
Tags: Drought Tolerant, Fall Color, Groundcover, Low Water Gardening, New Plants, Perennials, Sedum, Stonecrop Â· Posted in: Gardening in Spring and Summer, Perennials
A common question we often get is, "Can I store excess seed for next season’s use and if so, how?" Seed storage is not only a great way to save money (it’s cheaper to buy in bulk), but is extremely easy to do!
We recommend storing seed in an airtight container. You could use kitchen tupperware, a large storage bin or whatever you have lying around. Make sure it is as airtight as possible and is completely dry before you put your seed in it.
Keep your airtight container in a cool (not freezing), dry place that is not subject to extreme temperature variations. Don’t keep it in your freezing garage, your refrigerator or on top of your dryer! A cool, stable temperature (such as a closet) is the perfect place to store the seed. Viability, also known as the life of the seed, varies from species to species. However, most Wildflower species will maintain good germination quality for at least a year or two, sometimes up to 5 years.
Storing seed is especially helpful for those of us planting Annuals and Vegetables. Order a pound of our All Annual Mixture and keep it around for years, sprinkling each season for a burst of blooms all summer long. Happy Gardening!
Each year, the National Garden Bureau chooses a perennial to feature as their "Perennial of the Year." They recently announced that 2014 is the "Year of the Echinacea" We are thrilled because Echinacea is one of our favorite perennials and we carry over 20 varieties as seeds and plants.
From their website:
"Echinacea was chosen as the perennial for the National Garden Bureau’s 2014 Year of program because of the vast assortment of flower colors and shapes available to today’s gardener but also because they are such an American staple. The classic flower shape continues to be a favorite in home and public gardens so it’s time we highlight the history of the “tried and true” classics as well as some of the newer varieties sure to please any home gardener."
Below you can find some of our favorite varieties.
Echinacea is famous across the country for illumining entire meadows with stunning pink flowers. This butterfly-magnet is easy to grow and makes for spectacular bouquets.
In fiery tones of red, orange, and yellow, this drought-tolerant perennial ignites the garden from summer to fall. Cheyenne Spirit is deer-resistant and makes gorgeous summer bouquets.
Hot Coral makes a fun, bright statement with coral blooms offset by deep centers. Stunning both in the garden and cut for summer bouquets.Â
This cheerful-pink variety is a hybrid, bred to have upright petals, unlike the drooping petals of the native variety.
A mix of three varieties of this popular perennial, this is an affordable way to fill your sunny garden with colorful flowers.Â
Coneflower White Swan is the white version of Purple Coneflower. Together, the two make a great show.Â
View all of our varieties here. Happy Gardening!
Daylilies are one of the true cornerstones of any perennial garden. With some care, they grow in any soil type and multiply each year, making them one of the best garden investments. Many varieties are re-bloomers, putting on a colorful show twice in one season. These deer-resistant beauties are a must-have for any perennial garden and we are excited to be carrying seven new varieties for spring 2014.
With slightly ruffled petals and dramatic pink/burgundy blooms, Raspberry Ruffles is a must-have for any Daylily lover. Plant in spring for a knock-out summer show year after year.Â
Ignite your summer garden with this fire-orange Daylily. Tuscawilla Tigress boasts big, bright-orange blooms with a deep center and white markings on the petals. This deer-resistant favorite is a re-bloomer, illuminating the summer garden twice in one season.Â
This unique variety has won numerous Daylily awards and we’re not surprised! Large, double pink blooms appear almost fluffy and Siloam Double Classic is also intensely fragrant. Like other Daylilies, this fabulous variety is extremely easy to grow and will thrive in almost any sunny spot.Â
This raspberry-colored beauty boats a striking green throat and stays open in the evening hours, unlike many Daylily varieties. Mary Reed is extremely easy to grow and spreads each year, making it a great addition to any perennial garden!Â
Unlike its name, Prairie Blue Eyes is a charming lavender/purple, accented by a bright yellow throat. Deer Resistant and easy to grow, plant this Daylily in any soil type and it is sure to dazzle with an abundance of blooms in the summer months.Â
Pygmy Plum’s deep-colored blooms delight twice in one season and this plant is extremely easy to grow, withstanding almost any growing conditions. Plant this beauty in the border of your garden or in containers.Â
This cheerful yellow Daylily is a re-bloomer, igniting the garden with an abundance of blooms twice in one season. If you’re looking for a multitude of flowers, Bakabana is the perfect choice! A vigorous spreader, plant this beauty once for years and years of fabulous color.
What’s your favorite Daylily? Please share in the comments below or post on our Facebook Wall. Happy Gardening!
November 15, 2013
Â· Amanda Shepard Â· Comments Closed
Tags: daylilies, daylily, Hemerocallis, New for 2014, New Plants, New Products, Unique Varieties Â· Posted in: Gardening in Spring and Summer, Perennials
Now that we’re into November, it’s extremely important (if you haven’t already) to prepare your garden for the winter months. This doesn’t need to be a weekend-long affair, simply follow a few easy steps and your garden will be ready to hibernate (along with you) for the winter and come back next spring stronger than ever!
Cleaning up and Cutting Back
It’s important to cut back perennial plants, then rake debris and leaves out of your garden beds. This helps to prevent any bacteria or mold to grow and disrupt the healthy growth of your precious plants. If you planted Wildflowers, mow them down in the fall and leave the broken stems on the ground. This helps for the annual varieties to re-seed for next year and provides food/shelter for birds!
Fall is a great time to mulch, especially if you’re trying to protect Bulbs or smaller plants from harsh winter temperatures. It’s best to apply mulch just after your first hard frost. This helps to stabilize the temperature of the soil. We recommend using an all-natural pine or wood bark mulch that help to enrich the soil. If you’re protecting your plants from the cold, we recommend a layer of mulch about 3-6" thick. Once the ground thaws, you may want to clear some of the mulch away from your small plants.
Adding Bulbs for Spring Color
Once you’re doing your fall cleanups, it’s always a great time to take note of bare spots in your garden. Purchase a bag of Tulips or Daffodils and tuck the Bulbs where there are empty spots in the garden. You will thank yourself in the spring when you’re greeted with cheerful blooms!
What is your fall cleanup process? Please share in the comments below or post on our Facebook page. Happy Gardening!
November 11, 2013
Â· Amanda Shepard Â· 3 Comments
Tags: Cutting Back, fall bulbs, Fall Cleanup, Garden Maintenance, Mulching, Preparing your Garden for Winter Â· Posted in: Flower Bulbs, Gardening in Fall, How-Tos, Perennials, Wildflowers
If you love the colorful blooms of Tulips, Daffodils and Hyacinths but can’t wait until spring, try forcing bulbs indoors for earlier flowers. The process is fairly simple and fun — A great activity to do with children.
1. Choose your variety. Choose any variety of Tulip, Daffodil or Hyacinth to force indoors for early blooms. Try something you wouldn’t normally plant in your garden and get creative with color combinations!
2. Chill the bulbs in the refrigerator (away from any fruits) until you are ready to plant.
3. Plant the bulbs in containers after at least 6 weeks of chilling. Use any shallow container for most bulbs. If you’re planting taller varieties of Tulips or Daffodils, use a deeper container. Bury the bulbs just below the soil surface with the pointy sides sticking up. Get creative and plant several different varieties together in different containers!
4. Chill the container in any area that is about 45 degrees fahrenheit. A refrigerator or cool (above freezing) garage will work.
5. Once the bulbs start to pop up and sprouts are about 1 inch above the surface, bring the container out of storage and place in a sunny window.Make sure to keep it in a cooler area, as too much sun and warmth will hinder growth.
6. Once in bloom, enjoy your spring preview way before bulbs in the garden have started!
November 6, 2013
Â· Amanda Shepard Â· One Comment
Tags: fall bulbs, forcing bulbs, forcing daffodils, forcing hyacinths, forcing tulips, gardening projects, kids gardening, Winter Blooms Â· Posted in: Flower Bulbs, Gardening in Fall, Gardening in the Winter, How-Tos
We’re always looking to carry as many unique varieties as possible and are excited to have just added a dozen new Fall Bulbs available to plant now! Whether you’re looking for deer-resistant Daffodils, easy-to-grow Camassia, or Wild Tulips, we have it all! All of our new Fall-Planted Bulbs are up to 50% off and shipping to plant now for gorgeous spring blooms. We have limited quantities available of these new varieties, so order now.
We have several new, unique Tulip varieties. The Wild Tulip Tarda is a perennial early-bloomer, virgously spreading each year. The gorgeous yellow center is offset by white tips. Tulip Alba Coerulea Oculata is a true garden standout, with blue centers and white petals. Tulip Cynthia is a stunning Wildflower Tulip with red and white bi-color blooms. This variety is extremely easy to grow and will thrive in warmer winter climates.
Love the smaller, charming blooms of the Tete-a-Tete Daffodil? We’re now carrying the white variety, which would be gorgeous paired with its yellow counterpart! We’re carrying several other new Daffodil varieties, including Professor Einstein, which boasts deep orange centers surrounded by white petals. A true knockout in the spring garden year after year!
Spring Starflower Charlette Bishop boasts charming, star-shaped blooms that are sure to be a conversation-starter in the garden. Allium Silver Spring is a fragrant variety that has off-white flowers and dark rose centers. Camassia leichtlinii Blue Danube is a late bloomer with deep blue, spiky blooms offset by grassy foliage. It is easy to grow and native to the Pacific Northwest.
To view all of our new varieties for the fall, click here. Happy Gardening!
All of our bulk Wildflower Seed Mixtures are 100% pure wildflower seeds, no fillers! (The average mixture found at a big box store or garden center is only 15% pure seed and 85% filler â€“ Yuck!)
Our proven Regional Mixtures contain an average of 25 different annual and perennial species.Â We include annuals for the first growing season and perennials for the second and successive seasons!
The Seed Man’s favorite week every year is National Wildflower Week each May.
Mike “The Seed Man” Lizotte has been slingin’ seed since the age of 13.Â That’s 26 years of wildflower knowledge only found here at American Meadows.
We ship our Wildflower seed all over the world! Â Nous expÃ©dions notre wildflower seed partout dans le monde! Spediamo wildflower seme tutto il mondo! Enviamos nuestros wildflower las semillas en todo el mundo!
We’re the unofficial Wildflower Seed supplier to the stars! We’ve sold our wildflowers to Kristy Alley,Â Ashley Judd and Sheryl Crow just to name a few.
Wildflowers are great for attracting pollinators which are critical to our ecosystem.
Stop mowing your lawn and plant Wildflowers.Â Mowing your lawn for 1 hour emits the same amount of pollutants as driving your car for 200 milesâ€¦Not good!Â
One of the most common questions we receive each fall is, "When should I plant Wildflowers?"
The short answer: Plant in the fall once the ground is frozen and temperatures in your area are cold enough that the seed will stay dormant until the early spring. However, we have several blogs, articles and videos that explain the process of fall Wildflower planting in much more detail, from the preparation of your soil all the way to sowing the seed. We’ve included these resouces for you below.
Don’t forget — We have garden experts available 6 days a week to answer your planting questions either via email, phone or live chat! You can also "like" the Seed Man on facebook to get the latest Wildflower news, planting tips and more.
How to Plant Wildflowers in the Fall
The Seed Man gives tricks on one of the most important aspects of wildflower seed planting â€“ preparing the soil.
In this blog, The Seed Man highlights the best seed to plant for different regions of the country. From ourÂ regional mixtures, toÂ individual species, he outlines which seed will do best for fall planting.
In the last installment, The Seed Man gives tips on maintaining your wildflower meadow in the fall. He answers the ever-popular question, “To mow or not to mow?”
Other Wildflower Guides
In this blog, learn the best practices for planting a large area with Wildflowers.
A very detailed article on (literally) everything you need to know about planting Wildflowers. One of our most popular pages on our site and extremely helpful!
Wildflower Planting Videos
How to Plant a Wildflower Meadow Part I:
How to Plant a Wildflower Meadow Part II:
We hope this helps to answer your questions about fall Wildflower planting. Happy Gardening!


Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris (cause of black rot of crucifers) in the genomic era is still a worldwide threat to brassica crops
Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris (Xcc) (Pammel) Dowson is a Gram-negative bacterium that causes black rot, the most important disease of vegetable brassica crops worldwide. Intensive molecular investigation of Xcc is gaining momentum and several whole genome sequences are available.
Bacteria; Phylum Proteobacteria; Class Gammaproteobacteria; Order Xanthomonadales; Family Xanthomonadacea; Genus Xanthomonas; Species X. campestris.
Host range and symptoms
Xcc can cause disease in a large number of species of Brassicaceae (ex-Cruciferae), including economically important vegetable Brassica crops and a number of other cruciferous crops, ornamentals and weeds, including the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana. Black rot is a systemic vascular disease. Typical disease symptoms include V-shaped yellow lesions starting from the leaf margins and blackening of the veins.
Race structure, pathogenesis and epidemiology
Collections of Xcc isolates have been differentiated into physiological races based on the response of several brassica species lines. Black rot is a seed-borne disease. The disease is favoured by warm, humid conditions and can spread rapidly from rain dispersal and irrigation water.
The control of black rot is difficult and relies on the use of pathogen-free planting material and the elimination of other potential inoculum sources (infected crop debris and cruciferous weeds). Major gene resistance is very rare in B. oleracea (brassica C genome). Resistance is more readily available in other species, including potentially useful sources of broad-spectrum resistance in B. rapa and B. carinata (A and BC genomes, respectively) and in the wild relative A. thaliana.
The reference genomes of three isolates have been released. The genome consists of a single chromosome of approximately 5 100 000 bp, with a GC content of approximately 65% and an average predicted number of coding DNA sequences (CDS) of 4308.
Important genes identified
Three different secretion systems have been identified and studied in Xcc. The gene clusters xps and xcs encode a type II secretion system and xps genes have been linked to pathogenicity. The role of the type IV secretion system in pathogenicity is still uncertain. The hrp gene cluster encodes a type III secretion system that is associated with pathogenicity. An inventory of candidate effector genes has been assembled based on homology with known effectors. A range of other genes have been associated with virulence and pathogenicity, including the rpf, gum and wxc genes involved in the regulation of the synthesis of extracellular degrading enzymes, xanthan gum and lipopolysaccharides.