page_title: Mola (art form)
section_title: Construction
hierarchical_section_title: Mola (art form) / Construction
caption_attribution_description: A molas made in the San Blas Islands of Panama by master mola maker Venancio Restrepo. The design is traditional. This closeup shows the fine stitching typical of the best molas, as well as the layering of the reverse-applique technique. Picture by S/V Moonrise.
context_page_description: The Mola, or Molas, is a hand-made textile that forms part of the traditional women's clothing of the Kuna people from Panama, Central America. The full costume includes a patterned wrapped skirt, a red and yellow headscarf, arm and leg beads, a gold nose ring and earrings in addition to the mola blouse.
  In Dulegaya, the Guna's native language, "mola" means "shirt" or "clothing". The mola originated with the tradition of kuna women painting their bodies with geometric designs, using available natural colors; in later years these same designs were woven in cotton, and later still, sewn using cloth bought from the European settlers of Panamá.
context_section_description: Molas are hand-made using a reverse appliqué technique.  Several layers (usually two to seven) of different-colored cloth (usually cotton) are sewn together; the design is then formed by cutting away parts of each layer.  The edges of the layers are then turned under and sewn down.  Often, the stitches are nearly invisible.  This is achieved by using a thread the same color as the layer being sewn, sewing blind stitches, and sewing tiny stitches.  The finest molas have extremely fine stitching, made using tiny needles.
  The largest pattern is typically cut from the top layer, and progressively smaller patterns from each subsequent layer, thus revealing the colors beneath in successive layers.  This basic scheme can be varied by cutting through multiple layers at once, hence varying the sequence of colours; some molas also incorporate patches of contrasting colours, included in the design at certain points to introduce additional variations of color.
  Molas vary greatly in quality, and the pricing to buyers varies accordingly.  A greater number of layers is generally a sign of higher quality; two-layer molas are common, but examples with four or more layers will demand a better price.  The quality of stitching is also a factor, with the stitching on the best molas being close to invisible.  Although some molas rely on embroidery to some degree to enhance the design, those which are made using only the pure reverse-appliqué technique (or nearly so) are considered better.
  Molas will often be found for sale with signs of use, such as stitch marks around the edges; such imperfections indicate that the mola was made for use, and not simply for sale to tourists.  A mola can take from two weeks to six months to make, depending on the complexity of the design.
caption: This closeup of a mola by Venancio Restrepo shows the layering of the different colors of cloth, and the fine stitching involved.
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