page_title: 1300–1400 in European fashion
section_title: Shirt, doublet and hose
hierarchical_section_title: 1300–1400 in European fashion / Men's clothing / Shirt, doublet and hose
context_page_description: Fashion in fourteenth-century Europe was marked by the beginning of a period of experimentation with different forms of clothing. Costume historian James Laver suggests that the mid-14th century marks the emergence of recognizable "fashion" in clothing, in which Fernand Braudel concurs. The draped garments and straight seams of previous centuries were replaced by curved seams and the beginnings of tailoring, which allowed clothing to more closely fit the human form. Also, the use of lacing and buttons allowed a more snug fit to clothing.
  In the course of the century the length of female hem-lines progressively reduced, and by the end of the century it was fashionable for men to omit the long loose over-garment of previous centuries altogether, putting the emphasis on a tailored top that fell a little below the waist—a silhouette that is still reflected in men's costume today.
context_section_description: The innermost layer of clothing were the braies or breeches, a loose undergarment, usually made of linen, which was held up by a belt.  Next came the shirt, which was generally also made of linen, and which was considered an undergarment, like the breeches.
  Hose or chausses made out of wool were used to cover the legs, and were generally brightly colored, and often had leather soles, so that they did not have to be worn with shoes. The shorter clothes of the second half of the century required these to be a single garment like modern tights, whereas otherwise they were two separate pieces covering the full length of each leg.  Hose were generally tied to the breech belt, or to the breeches themselves, or to a doublet.
  A doublet was a buttoned jacket that was generally of hip length. Similar garments were called cotehardie, pourpoint, jaqueta or jubón.  These garments were worn over the shirt and the hose.
caption: Jean de Vaudetar, chamberlain of king Charles V of France, presents his gift of a manuscript to the King, by Jean Bondol, 1372. For this very formal occasion, he is shown without anything over his tightly tailored top. The king wears a coif
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