舒舒

舒舒（索托語：Shweshwe，IPA：/ˈʃwɛʃwɛ/）是一种广泛用于南部非洲传统服装的印花染色棉织物。舒舒最初僅染成靛蓝，現可加工製成多种颜色和印花设计，以其复杂的几何图案为特色。出於其受欢迎程度，舒舒被稱为南非的牛仔布或花呢格布。 舒舒的當地語言名稱“Shweshwe”源自莱索托国王莫舒舒一世（“Moshoeshoe”又拼作“Moshweshwe”）與織品的关联。莫舒舒一世在1840年代獲法国传教士赠予此種織品，隨後将其普及。 19世纪德国和瑞士定居者進口蓝印花（Blaudruck）織品以製作其服装後，舒舒在南非與巴索托文化中的地位獲進一步鞏固，舒舒亦由此在塞索托语中被称作“塞傑雷馬內”（Sejeremane）或“塞舒舒”（Seshoeshoe）、在科萨语中被称作“泰蘭塔拉”（Terantala，源自南非語中指珠雞的詞語“Tarentaal”）與“烏賈馬尼”（Ujamani）。 舒舒传统上用於製作连衣裙、短裙、围裙和围裹式服装。传统上，新婚科薩人妇女（称作“Makoti”）與已婚巴索托人妇女會穿舒舒。科萨人妇女也將舒舒融入其传统的赭色毛毯服装中。除传统服装外，舒舒亦為当代南非時尚設計所用，並適用於各族男女，且也可用於製作配饰與室内装潢。舒舒在美国也被用於绗缝（英语：Quilting）織品。 舒舒以在纯棉印花布（英语：Calico）上採排酸與滾筒印花技术製造。舒舒的印刷寬度為90厘米，採通體圖案與並排印刷的A字形裙板圖案樣式。舒舒織料可製成各种颜色，包括原始的靛蓝、巧克力棕色與红色，並有多种图案设计，包括花卉、条纹與菱形、方形、圆形等几何图案。異光彩斑點效果（Picotage）可用於在舒舒上印刷複雜的圖案。異光彩斑點效果是一种复杂與高成本而鮮為当代織料生產商所使用的針扎織料印刷技术（使用现代織料印刷技术可達到同樣的设计效果）。 舒舒織料現已有商标認證。舒舒織料在以前經欧洲进口到南部非洲，而自1982年以来則一直由达伽马纺织公司（Da Gama Textiles）在東開普省威廉王城外的兹韦利特沙（英语：Zwelitsha）鄉（英语：Township (South Africa)）生产。1992年，达伽马收购曼彻斯特雲杉製造有限公司（Spruce Manufacturing Co. Ltd）所生产的最受欢迎的三猫織料的独家经营权，並将原版雕刻铜辊运往南非。达伽马使用从辛巴威进口、在东开普省当地种植的棉花製作舒舒。 包括达伽马舒舒生产綫在內的南非当地纺织业受来自中国大陆與巴基斯坦进口的廉价劣质冒牌货的竞争威胁。舒舒真品可經由手感、气味、味道、声音、染色纯度與織料反面的商标标识，小於平均90厘米的織料宽度，以及从传统淀粉洗掉的新織料的挺度予以识别。截至2013年11月，达伽马的舒舒产量已降至每年500万米。 吉爾·史葛（英语：Jill Scott）在電視劇《第一女子偵探社（英语：The No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency (TV series)）》中飾演主角姆瑪·普蕾舍絲·拉莫茨韋（Mma Precious Ramotswe），並身穿由舒舒製成的服装進行拍攝。 非洲蠟印（英语：African wax prints） shwe-shwe or shweshwe. Collins English Dictionary. [2014-01-30]. （原始内容存档于2021-05-01）.  Rochlin, Margy. Jo Katsaras: 'No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency'. New York Times. 2009-06-05. （原始内容存档于2014-01-24）. But Ms. Katsaras always keeps the series's central character, the private investigator Precious Ramotswe (Jill Scott, above), the focus of attention with colorful dresses and head scarves made of shweshwe, the traditional South African fabric known for its pulsating motifs.  Grange, Helen. Stylish isishweshwe? Check. The Star. 2011-05-04 [2014-01-24]. （原始内容存档于2014-01-24）.  deVillemarette, Cynthia. Shweshwe: A True Blue Passion. The Country Register of Tennessee & Kentucky. July–August 2010. The designs are created using a discharge process, unlike modern printed fabrics where color is added to the surface. With Shweshwe, the cotton cloth is first entirely dyed, thoroughly penetrating the fiber. Then, the cloth is passed through copper design rollers, which emit a mild acid solution, removing color with pinpoint accuracy. One of the characteristics of Shweshwe is the intense use of picotage, tiny pin dots that create not only the designs, but also texture and depth. It is because of the difficulty and expense in creating these designs that they fell out of favor with American and European manufacturers, who chose instead to move to printing processes. Da Gama Textiles of South Africa is the only known manufacturer of fabrics still using the discharge process ... The reverse side of the fabric will be a solid color because it was dyed. Da Gama also prints its seal on the back to help you identify it.  Rovine, Victoria L. Dudley, Sandra H. , 编. Handmade textiles: global markets and authenticity. Oxon: Routledge. 2012: 276–277 [2022-05-16]. ISBN 9781135721473. （原始内容存档于2022-03-17）.  Davie, Lucille. Shweshwe, the denim of South Africa. Media Club South Africa. 2013-11-18 [2014-01-20]. （原始内容存档于2014-01-20）.  A stylish ode to Mama Afrika. The Star. 2011-09-27 [2014-01-21]. （原始内容存档于2011-12-30）.  Kuper, Jeremy. London shows material interest in Africa's old clothes. Mail & Guardian. 2013-04-19 [2014-01-20]. （原始内容存档于2013-05-25）.  Holmes, Thalia. The fabric of society needs underpinning. Mail & Guardian. 2013-11-22 [2014-01-20]. （原始内容存档于2014-01-20）.  Futhwa, Fezekile. Setho: Afrikan Thought and Belief System. Nalane ka Fezekile Futhwa. 2012: 107–115 [2022-05-16]. ISBN 9780620503952. （原始内容存档于2022-05-02）.  Joyce, Liam. Swish shweshwe!. Daily News. 2013-10-14 [2014-01-20]. （原始内容存档于2013-11-05）.  The Isishweshwe Story: Material Women?. Iziko Museums. 2013-02-23 [2014-01-22]. （原始内容存档于2013-03-29）.  Pheto-Moeti, B; Riekert, D.M.; Pelser, A.J. Perceptions of Seshoeshoe fabric, naming and meanings of motifs on fabric. Journal of Consumer Sciences. 2017,. 2 (2017): 24–39 [2022-05-16]. （原始内容存档于2022-05-16） –通过African Journals Online.  Miti, Siya. Textile sector threat to fabric of society. Daily Dispatch. 2013-05-11 [2014-01-20]. （原始内容存档于2013-12-17）.  Event – Material women? The shweshwe story. Iziko Museums. [2014-01-20]. （原始内容存档于2014-01-20）.  Bryant, Judy. Transplanted Culture Through Trade (PDF). Cape Crafts & Design Institute. June 2012: 21–22 [2014-01-20]. （原始内容存档 (PDF)于2014-01-21）.  Lewis, Esther. IsiShweshwe: cut from a different cloth. Cape Argus. 2013-03-28 [2014-01-22]. （原始内容存档于2014-02-02）.  Fulton, Claire. Cottoning on to Shweshwe chic. South Africa.info. 2006-11-23 [2014-01-23]. （原始内容存档于2012-01-14）.  Home Sewing. Da Gama Textiles. [2014-01-22]. （原始内容存档于2016-03-05）. Some of our recognised brands include ... The Original Shweshwe ethnic printed 3 CATS, 3 LEOPARDS, TOTO and FANCY PRINTS, which are acid discharge prints on cotton calico.  History of Shweshwe. Da Gama Textiles. [2014-01-21]. （原始内容存档于2013-08-09）.  Sparg, Linda. Fabric firm wins with a focus on local flair. Business Report. 2012-01-15 [2014-01-21]. （原始内容存档于2014-01-21）.  Barbieri, Annalisa. All shapes and sizes. New Statesman. 2008-04-03 [2014-01-24]. （原始内容存档于2008-12-04）.  Ralfe, Liz. Love Affair with my Isishweshwe. Weber, Sandra; Mitchell, Claudia (编). Not Just Any Dress: Narratives of Memory, Body, and Identity. New York: Peter Lang. 2004: 211–218 [2022-05-16]. ISBN 978-0-8204-6118-2. （原始内容存档于2022-05-16）.  Pheto-Moeti, Mabokang Baatshwana. An Assessment of Seshoeshoe Dress as a Cultural Identity for Basotho Women of Lesotho (M.Sc.论文). University of the Free State. 2005. （原始内容存档于2014-01-22）.  Maphangwa, Shonisani. From Colonial to Post-Colonial: Shifts in Cultural Meanings in Dutch Lace and Shweshwe Fabric (M.A.论文). University of Johannesburg. 2010. （原始内容存档于2014-01-22）.  Moletsane, Relebohile; Mitchell, Claudia; Smith, Ann (编). Was it Something I Wore?: Dress, Identity, Materiality. Dress Identity Materiality (Cape Town: HSRC Press). 2012 [2022-05-16]. ISBN 978-0-7969-2362-2. （原始内容存档于2022-05-16）.  Rossouw, Mandy. Londen oorrompel deur SA se modes. Beeld. 2006-09-23 [2014-01-22]. （原始内容存档于2014-01-22） （南非荷兰语）.  Lamprecht, Bettie. Ikoniese materiaal wat geen grense ken. Beeld. 2013-03-05 [2014-01-22]. （原始内容存档于2014-01-22） （南非荷兰语）.  Leeb-Du Toit, Juliette. isiShweshwe: A History of the Indigenisation of Blueprint in South Africa. Pietermaritzburg: University of KwaZulu-Natal Press. 2017. ISBN 9781869143145.  大英博物馆藏品中的舒舒 （页面存档备份，存于互联网档案馆）