fix commit message for chmod

fix chmod commit message again
made read only fs test platform independent
fix access calls

for some reason, linux version of fuse does not call access functions,
but OSX version does. This should fix them and enable mounting on OSX.
raise EROFS in ReadOnlyView access

access() should raise EACCES on but ReadOnlyView always raises EROFS. In
general the ReadOnlyView behabior should move towards rising EACCES,
since not the entire filesystem in in read only mode.