More readme fix
Some #nav size tweaks
User settings page + log in / settings as buttons
{% user_link %} template tag + gravatar
Little user icon in right hand corner.
Change gravatar link
Contributors listed under each page/map
Avatars on RC, info, woo!
'Unknown' user link status
User pages. Mostly. Kind of.

For #656. There are a few UI and misc tweaks needed here, but this is
a good first step.

We need to unify user pages, as the underlying page content is currently
being stored in (kind of random) regions so that people can see user
page changes more easily.  This should be done after #42, for reasons
that are explained in #687
Fix 'main' region recentchanges error
UI tweaks + link to user settings