CI/WIP: Use conda for most deps

closes #6870 

- [x] use conda.binstar.org/cpcloud channel for versions/packages not in conda defaults
- [x] possibly bring back the ccache, not totally sure what this is doing

this doesn't remove maintenance, but it sure does simplify things, since conda recipes are very easy to create
and it IS working on current travis, that's why I am suspicious. Maybe after you added the switch to the conda dir its ok?