Do not load cookbook pages with AJAX

:fork_and_knife: 

This makes the pagination links standard links. At first it seemed as though the UJS wasn't working because the index action's default response format was XML. However, changing the default response format to HTML didn't solve anything. It feels like some sort of compatibility issue (maybe this is why jQuery UJS requires jQuery < 2?), but it seems better to get pagination working, and then worry about whether or not it feels responsive.

I kept the commit changing the default response format to HTML since that seems like it should be the case regardless.