remote: mark branch for-merge even if we're unborn

When the current branch is unborn, git will still mark the current
branch's upstream for-merge if there is an upstream configuration. The
only non-constrived case is cloning from an empty repository which then
gains history. origin's master should be marked for-merge.

In order to do this, we cannot use the high-level wrappers that expect a
reference, as we may not have one. Move over to the internal ones that
expect a reference name, which we do have.