Move glaciers-text above non-text layers.
Make glacier text easier to read.

Increased text size, darker text and larger halo to help isolate the text from
backgrounds e.g. admin boundaries.
Make place names easier to read.

Larger, with larger halos. Slightly lighter black makes it less contrasty and
therefore a bit more pleasing.
Less intense colour for admin boundaries.
Per-layer opacity for admin lines, to reduce over-draw nasties.
Turn off line clipping for boundaries with dashes.
Bump opacity down, since there's fewer overdraws.
Lighter forests, and have symbolizer on a transparent background for easier customisation.
Make junction names a bit more legible.
Ensure a small gap between adjacent placenames.

This becomes very apparent where localities have been mapped 10-20m apart!