WIP in place editing and creating of forms

needs refactoring, tests, etc.
this was a spike
[#41671263]
[#41671301]
make cancel buttons work
Fix tests broken by in-place project editing and creation 'spike'

[finishes #41671263]
[finishes #41671301]

Also:
- switch to .ruby-version
- remove cruft from application layout
- stop using path helpers in request specs, and unpend a test