Unify compiler selection logic

This unifies the logic for selecting a compiler between superenv and
stdenv. A variation of superenv's `determine_cc`, which now returns a
symbol, has been moved into the shared ENV extension. Stdenv uses the
result of this directly (as it's always used symbols), while superenv
translates that back into a compiler string.

This also has the effect of disabling HOMEBREW_USE_(gcc|llvm|clang) in
stdenv, which have already been marked as deprecated for some time, and
enables the HOMEBREW_CC= environment variable syntax from superenv in
stdenv.