Add any/all support for variants

Like `format.any`, you can do the same with variants.

It works for both inline:

    respond_to do |format|
      format.html.any   { render text: "any"   }
      format.html.phone { render text: "phone" }
    end

and block syntax:

    respond_to do |format|
      format.html do |variant|
        variant.any(:tablet, :phablet){ render text: "any" }
        variant.phone { render text: "phone" }
      end
    end