FishLight_PCB: Updated my parts library

Updated my RTC breakout board and my Arduino Shield Flipped symbols to
be more visually appealing and better reflect the size of the parts they
represent.
Fishlight_PCB: Updated the schematic and layout

Updated the schematic and layout to add power and ground planes and to
swap out my old parts for my updated library parts.
FishLight_PCB: Added screw terminals

The screw terminals are under M02 and M03 for 2 and 3 pin terminals
respectfully.  These will be used to connect things like power and
ground cables to my LED strings.  I may need to get less than I
currently put in.  Though it might be nice to totally breakout every
Arduino pin to a header.
FishLight_PCB: Connected screw terminals

Connected the screw terminals to the Arduino so that each Arduino pin
has a terminal.  Rearranged the schematic a bit to be more organized and
also added LED screw terminals.
FishLight_PCB: Added CAT4101

Created a symbol and layout for the CAT4101 device.  Hooked up the power
and ground pins with a bypass cap and connected the PWM pins.  Also
added pull ups for the I2C bus.
FishLight_PCB: Added AD5246 Digital Pot

Added the AD5246 Digital Potentiometer.  This is a 5Kohm Digital
Potentiometer with an I2C interface and a range of approximately 100ohm
- 5100ohm.  This will give me sufficient range to sweep all the way from
100mA to 1000mA on the CAT4101 with a resistance range of about 4990ohm
- 549ohm respectively.
FishLight_PCB: Added CD74HC4067 16x MUX

Added the CD74HC4067 16-Channel MUX.  This is going to control which
digital pot gets written to since they all have the same I2C address.  I
hope it will be fast enough to write a single register on each pot.
Pulled the SSOP20 package from Sparkfun and modified it for a 24 pin
package.  Hooked up the SDA signals on 3 of the pots and the Arduino.
Still need to connect the Digital control signals S0-3.  Need to choose
which pins those will be.
FishLight_PCB: Added 12V regulator

Added the UA7812 12V regulator.  This will convert my 24V power supply
to 12V to power the Arduino.  This may also power a fan.
FishLight_PCB: Added 5V regulator and 3 pin Molex

Added the L7805 5V regulator.  This may not be necessary unless I want
to use the Spark Core.  The Spark has a max input voltage of 6V, making
the 12V regulator unnecessary.  Perhaps I will pick a regulator that can
be changed to 5V or 12V depending on what I want to use just by changing
one set resistor.  Also added a few 3 pin Molex connectors that I can
use for temperature sensors.  I haven't picked a part for that yet but I
may go with the DS18B20 even tho it is kind of expensive.  But it is
really nice since it has an Arduino library already and it only uses 1
wire to talk to the Arduino and it can have a large number of sensors on
the same wire since they all have different pre-programmed addresses.
FishLight_PCB: Upgrade to Spark Core

I am planning on using the Spark Core for this project so that I can
have a wireless connection to program the board and get updates on
things like temperature wirelessly.  Added the Spark Core parts library,
the Adafruit parts library, updated a few of my parts and changed to the
Spark Core.
FishLight_PCB: Some minor edits

Added pull up resistors on the external temperature sensor headers.
Changed some text.
FishLight_PCB: Added 2 digital pots and I-sense R

Added the AD5254 and the AD5259 Digital Potentiometers.  These parts are
very similar to the AD5246 that I already had but they are in slightly
bigger packages and have I2C address pins so I can get more than 1 on
the same I2C bus without a MUX.  Also added some current sensing
resistors that are rated for 1A at .1ohms and 1% tolerance.  These will
possibly go with the INA219 assuming I can get 5 of these parts onto the
I2C bus.  Otherwise I need to either cut them out of the design or go
back to the I2C MUX idea.
FishLight_PCB: Added the AD5248 digital pot symbol

Added the AD5248 digital potentiometer.  This pot has 2 circuits and 2
address pins.  By getting 3 of these parts, I will be able to
individually select each LED channels current limit with 1 extra
potentiometer without having to use a MUX.  This saves space, potential
noise issues, and some cost.  I have not yet added this pot to the
schematic, only to the library.
FishLight_PCB: Connected the AD5248

Replaced the existing potentiometers with the AD5248.  Set addresses 00,
01, and 10.
FishLight_PCB: Initial part placement

Did an initial placement of the main components (LED drivers,
potentiometers, LED screw terminals, voltage regulators) to get an idea
of how they may fit together.  Also removed the extra screw terminals.
Although I like this idea as a developer, I think there just isn't
enough space or need for them in this project.
FishLight_PCB: Added INA219 current sensor

Added the INA219 current sensor.  This will make sure that I am driving
the LEDs with the amount of current I am expecting.  I can also use this
to hone in on my potentiometer settings.  These are removable if the
board gets too crowded.