Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes
Jennifer McLagan's Pumpkin and Bacon SoupJennifer McLaganis a chef, food stylist, and writer who has worked   in London and Paris as well as her native Australia. Her book,Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood   Ingredient, with Recipes, won the Best Single Subject Cookbook award, as well as   Cookbook of the Year, at the 2009 James Beard Awards. Her first book,Bones, was widely acclaimed,   winning the James Beard Award for single-subject food writing. She is a regular   contributor toFine CookingandFood & Drink. She has lived in   Toronto for more than 27 years with her sculptor husband, Haralds Gaikis, with whom she   escapes to Paris as often as possible. On both sides of the Atlantic, Jennifer maintains   friendly relations with her butchers, who put aside their best fat and bones for her.(Photo © Rob Fiocca)Pumpkin and Bacon Soup(Makes 3 quarts/3 l)Ingredients1/2 pound/225 g side (slab) bacon1 large onion, sliced1 stalk celery, sliced1 large sprig sagehubbard squash or other firm, dry pumpkin or winter squash (about 3-1/3 pounds/1.5   kg)8 cups/2 l waterCoarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepperDirectionsRemove the rind and any hard, dry skin from the bacon.   Cut the bacon into 1/4-inch/6-mm dice.Place a large saucepan over low heat,   add the bacon pieces, and cook gently so they render their fat. When most of their fat is   rendered, add the onion, celery, and sage, stirring to coat with the fat. Cook until the   vegetables soften slightly, about 7 minutes.Cut the squash into quarters and   remove the seeds. Peel the squash and coarsely chop into smaller, even-sized pieces. Set   aside.Pour 1 cup/250 ml of the water into the pan with the vegetables,   increase the heat to high and, using a wooden spoon, deglaze the pan, scraping up the   browned bits on the bottom. Add the remaining 7 cups/1.75 l water, the squash pieces, 1   tablespoon of salt, and some pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat, and   simmer, covered, until the squash is very soft, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the sage and let   the soup cool slightly.Purée the soup, in batches, in a blender and   pour into a clean saucepan. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and reheat the soup to serve.