Vegetable Harvest: Vegetables at the Center of the Plate
To dispense with a puzzlement right away--though namedVegetable Harvest, Patricia Wells's marvelous 190-plus recipe collection doesn't center on those edibles exclusively. Rather, it offers a well-rounded dish selection that puts them to brilliant use, often as supporting players (except, of course, in chapters titled "Vegetables" and "Potatoes"). This bit of culinary license shouldn't discourage anyone from buying the book, whose recipes, such as Baby Squid Salad with Garlic, Olives, Tomatoes and Parsley; Penne with Fava Beans, Basil Puree, and Parmesan; and Lamb Couscous with Chickpeas and Zucchini, exemplify all that's remarkable about Wells's approach to modern French cooking. Emphasizing simplicity, ingredient freshness and, yes, ease of preparation, the dishes--including  breads and desserts like Lemon and Rosemary Flatbread and Almond Buttermilk Sorbet--will  delight any cook who prizes direct yet brilliantly orchestrated flavor. In addition to wine advice, Wells also offers a pantry chapter including sauce and vinaigrette recipes--Creamy Lemon-Chive Dressing is one--nearly worth owning the book for.  In works includingThe Provence CookbookandBistro Cooking, Wells brought French cooking to the American kitchen in a way both authentic and relaxed.Vegetable Harvestfurthers that approach spectacularly.--Arthur Boehm