Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal
Featured Recipe: Wine-Braised Beef CheeksServes 6Ingredients3 cups / 750 ml red wine1 onion, halved and sliced2 carrots, peeled and diced2 stalks celery with leaves, sliced4 cloves garlic, germ removed2 fresh bay leaves1 large sprig rosemary1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns2 to 3 beef cheeks, about 3 pounds / 1.4 kg total, trimmed (see page 29)Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons beef dripping or lard1/2 calf’s foot, about 1 pound / 450 g, prepared (see page 100) (optional)2 teaspoons red wine vinegar1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsleyInstructionsPour the wine into a large saucepan and bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat so the wine bubbles gently. Tip the saucepan slightly away from you and, using a long match, light the wine. Once the flames die out, light it again, and keep lighting it until it no longer flames. Pour the wine into a large bowl (there should be about 21/2 cups / 625 ml). Add the onion, carrots, celery, garlic, bay leaves, rosemary, and peppercorns. Set aside to cool.Cut the beef cheeks into 2 or 3 pieces so that all the pieces are the same size. Place in the marinade, cover, and refrigerate overnight, turning a couple of times if possible.Remove the cheeks from the marinade, pat them dry, and season with salt and pepper. Strain the marinade, keeping the liquid and the solids separate.Preheat the oven to 300°F / 150°C.In a heavy flameproof casserole or Dutch oven, melt half the fat over medium-high heat. When the fat is hot, add the cheeks in batches and brown. Transfer the cheeks to a plate. Lower the heat, add the vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns from the marinade, and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes, or until they soften.Pour in the reserved marinade liquid and bring to a boil. Return the cheeks with any juices to the pan, add the calf’s foot, and return to a boil. Cover the meat with a piece of wet parchment paper and the lid, transfer to the oven, and cook for 3 to 4 hours, or until the cheeks are very tender.Transfer the cheeks and the foot to a plate.Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve into a bowl, pressing on the vegetables to extract all the juice; discard the solids. Let the cooking liquid stand for 5 minutes, then skim off the fat and set the fat aside for another use.Return the cooking liquid to the pan and bring to a boil. Continue to boil until the liquid coats the back of a spoon. Meanwhile, cut the meat and skin from the calf’s foot into small dice; discard the bones. Return the cheeks and diced foot to the reduced sauce and reheat gently. Add the vinegar and taste, adding more salt, pepper, and/or vinegar if necessary. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.Alternatives:Oxtail, beef shoulder, or shank