The New Book of Middle Eastern Food
Claudia Roden has updated and expanded her popular 1968 cookbook for a more savvy and knowledgeable audience. While still filled with old favorites, the third edition acknowledges food processors and other handy kitchen tools, as well as this generation's preference for lower-fat recipes. Not that every recipe is changed; many are not, but Roden does attempt not to rely too much on butter and oils.Begin your meal withmezze, derived from the Arabict'mazza, meaning "to savor in little bites." TryCevisli Biber(Roasted Pepper and Walnut Paste) spread on warm pita bread. Serve withSalata Horiatiki(Greek Country Salad) and then move on to a main dish of Roast Fish with Lemon and Honeyed Onions or Lamb Tagine with Artichokes and Fava Beans. The cookbook wouldn't be complete without sections on rice, couscous, and bulgur--tryAddis Polow(Rice with Lentils and Dates) orKesksou Bidaoui bel Khodra(Beber Couscous with Seven Vegetables). Finish with a traditional dessert likeOrass bi Loz(Almond Balls).Mixed in with the recipes are Roden's personal experiences as a cook and recipe archivist, and Middle Eastern tales that illustrate the history of a particular recipe or food group. "It was once believed olive oil could cure any illness except the one by which a person was fated to die," Roden writes. "People still believe in its beneficial qualities and sometimes drink it neat when they feel anemic of tired." She also includes a detailed introduction to the terrain, history, politics, and society of the Middle East so her readers can more fully understand why the cuisine has evolved the way it has. "Cooking in the Middle East is deeply traditional and nonintellectual," she says, "an inherited art." It's our good fortune to inherit such a rich tradition.--Dana Van Nest