The Valentino Cookbook
Piero Selvaggio came to the United States from Italy as a teenager, having eaten in only one restaurant in his life--a truck stop near the consulate that issued his family's travel papers. His first job was as a dishwasher in a cafeteria at N.Y.U. Thirty-five years later, Selvaggio's head must be spinning--his restaurants, Valentino in Los Angeles and Las Vegas, and Posto, also in Los Angeles, are considered among the best in the country.Selvaggio has spent a lifetime learning everything there is to know about Italian food and wine. With subtlety and elegance he mingles homemade Italian with delicate nouvelle style. The results are full-flavored and often breathtaking. Pasta Stuffed with Eggs, Spinach, and Ricotta, with Shaved Truffles is a study in understatement--cut through the ravioli to discover a whole poached egg nestled in the ricotta and spinach mixture. Pumpkin Lasagna is a beautifully simple presentation of pasta, pumpkin, brown butter with fresh sage, and Parmesan; crushed amaretti cookies lend a touch of sweetness. Lamb with Almonds, Walnuts, and Pine Nuts is a twist on a breaded cutlet--the combination of the fragrant, juicy chop with the crunchy aromatic nuts is truly memorable.A chapter on salads includes Valentino's famous Warm Chicken Salad with Gorgonzola Dressing, and soups include such hearty fare as Cream of Cabbage with Sour Cream. Risotto with Sweet Peppers and Corn is sure to become a favorite, especially if you follow Selvaggio's step-by-step instructions for cooking risotto. Desserts include an easy-to-make, smooth Espresso Chocolate Custard; a mouthwatering Ricotta, Orange, and Chocolate Torte; and even the Panettone di Luciano, a panettone filled with ice cream. While many of Valentino's dishes require elaborate preparation, just as many are quite simple. To help streamline effort in the kitchen, Selvaggio has separated advance and last-minute preparations wherever possible and made a wine recommendation for every dish in the book.Selvaggio confesses from the beginning that he loves a meal made up of many small dishes. He recommends serving antipasti and small portions of everything else. When you realize that eating his way means you never have to choose, that you really can have it all, his argument is very convincing.--Leora Y. Bloom