Formulating Natural Cosmetics
I have long admired Tony Dweck's combined chemical, botanical and medical knowledge. The comprehensive library of plant reference books he has authored, which are regularly purchased and read, along with his personal experience of working for the cosmetic industry, writing for cosmetic journals and conferences, and his famous Dweck Database, make him the author of choice for a book titled Formulating Natural Cosmetics.The naturals are covered in 14 chapters that the Latin names of plants in alphabetical order followed by their respective trivial names. There is also a chapter on minerals and another that covers legal issues associated with formulation, followed by four appendices covering toxicity of essential oils (tabulated data); natural color review (tabulated data such as natural source, supplier, trade name, etc.); scrubs and abrasives; and finally a glossary of medical terms. There is an index and, where necessary, chemical formulaeillustrate the text.This is not a book given over to literature references; had these been required, the book would never have been finished. What we have is a comprehensive, easy-to-read and clearly classified reference book of value not only to those associated with the cosmetic industry, but to all those needing information about plants for any reason. --Roland Hardman, BPharm BSc(Chem) PhD FRPharmS, Reader in Pharmacognosy, University of Bath, UK (retired)This massive reference work is exactly what you would expect from such a prolific author and expert on all things natural and botanical. It is the usual, quite thorough research and compilation of knowledge on the traditional uses and constituents of natural materials, many of which are already used in the cosmetic industry. This volume also covers some less familiar plants and natural materials that may provide inspiration to manufacturers and raw material suppliers alike.The chapters on fixed oils, butters and fats and waxes are very comprehensive and address ingredient cross-over with some materials. Triterpenoidal saponins, an interesting class of ingredients that can be used as natural surfactants and that are not often discussed, here find ample attention. Similarly, the chapter on natural preservatives is very informative. Minerals, including extracts of precious gem stones, and marine ingredients are also types of more unusual natural ingredients that are sometimes ignored by other texts; their coverage here really contributes to this volume s esteem. A large chunk of the book is, as it should be, devoted to botanicals and active ingredients, but it is the chapters on newer areas such as gemmotherapy, isoflavones, phytohormones and phytosterols that truly make this book unique. The final chapter covers the regulatory framework in the United Kingdom, and greater Europe, concisely addressing some of the pitfalls common to the unwary.Formulating Natural Cosmetics is certainly going to become a very useful reference text on my bookshelf that will be well-thumbed over the years --Judi Beerling, C Chem MRSC, MBA, Organic Monitor Ltd, UKThe author is founder of a company in the UK devoted to the study of botanicals and their chemistry and has long been planning to put this information in a book. Here he presents approximately 300 fixed oils, 200 essential oils, and 600 botanical extracts for formulators and marketers of new products. Each entry offers a chemical description and commentary on traditional use, as well as extraction methods when available. Some data are presented in tables, where coverage includes natural butters and waxes, emulsifiers, preservatives, anti-irritants and color, along with isoflavones, phytohormones and phytosterols. A chapter on gemmotherapy introduces a type of phytotherapy based on maceration of plant buds and shoots. A chapter on legal challenges should be interesting to anyone in the industry. --Eithne O'Leyne, Annotation © Book News Inc., Portland,