Julia's Casual Dinners: Seven glorious menus for informal occasions
For elegant food for informal occasions, tryJulia's Casual Dinners, the third volume in her four-part retelling ofJulia Child and CompanyandJulia Child and More Company. But don't let the termcasualfool you. These meals are only relaxed in relation to Child's other food; the dishes here are not necessarily easy, cheap, or quick to prepare.  For example, the picnic menu includespâté en croute, which is expensive, time consuming, and must be made at least a day in advance. A picnic, however, is a casual occasion--and what a picnic it is! Child's basket contains a layered gazpacho salad, a fish terrine (in three layers with salmon, sole, scallops, and watercress), fresh vegetables, cheeses, three kinds of bread, spice cookies, and the above-mentioned pâté. Not all the menus are so ornate, however; the "Informal Dinner" of asparagus tips in puff pastry, veal roast, and sautéed spinach and zucchini seems simple by comparison. As usual, Child has suggestions that make intimidating entertaining appear possible, if not downright easy. For example, her "Buffet for 19" is carefully scripted, from when preparations should begin down to the location of the oyster bar and the timing of each course. Informal dining Julia Child-style may be a bit ambitious for some, but these meals will delight (no matter what your definition ofcasualis).--David Kalil