The Food and Life of Oaxaca, Mexico
The Food and Life of Oaxaca, by New York restaurateur Zarela Martinez, is a fascinating cultural study disguised as a great cookbook. Martinez is part of the new renaissance of Mexican food writers and chefs, includingRick BaylessandDiana Kennedy, who reaffirm that culinary awareness goes hand in hand with cultural awareness.In fact, Martinez, a Mexican, credits her time in Oaxaca as "redefining my whole understanding of Mexico." Oaxaca is one of the most biologically and culturally diverse regions in Mexico, echoed throughoutThe Food and Life of Oaxacain both the recipes and the accompanying essays. Martinez adamantly insists that to cook a dish, you must first understand it. She provides not only the how-to of a recipe, but also the why. In the chapter onmoles, she provides seven outstanding recipes and explains beautifully why the sauces predominate Oaxacan cuisine. Her section on tamales is simply one of the best available, providing solid instruction and Oaxacan variations of the traditional Mexican party food. Chefs new to Mexican cuisine will find the glossary of ingredients indispensable. And any chef will find Martinez's passion for her subject inspiring.--Mark O. Howerton