James McNair's Favorites
At a time when cookbook authors were covering great stretches of territory (China the Beautiful, say) or claiming entire landfalls of subject matter (Seafood the Beautiful, say), James McNair came along in the mid-1980s with slim volumes dedicated to single subjects and designed with an exacting eye. Beautiful books, really. And they were passive books in the sense that McNair was not out to assault anyone with his style or ideas, or with hundreds of recipes packed between covers. His intention was to share his enthusiasm for great food and beauty, but keep it light. Make it easy: see the picture; make the dish.What we have here withJames McNair's Favoritesis the master of the single subject's first fat book, his compendium of greatest hits. This big boy is over 600 pages long. For the food archaeologist, it's the Rosetta Stone of American catering and upscale takeout, covering the last 15 years of the century. Press your nose to the glass of any chic deli, fresh pasta shop, or trendy market and you will find displayed some of the contents of this book. McNair's favorites are the comfort food for the end of the millennium.Blueberry Corn Pancakes? Sunshine Granola?  Any cookbook that starts with breakfast starts right. Then, and only then, he's on to appetizers. And this section, like the one on desserts, is indeed long. The message is graze first, then have dessert. Simple, no? McNair moves from Granny's Onion Dip to Chutney Glazed Cheese to Hummus to Seviche, Satay, and Thai Toast. Desserts start with Venetian Glazed Oranges and end with Passion Fruit Cake.An über-chapter called "Moving On" includes sections on soups, salads, noodles, pasta, polenta, risotto, gnocchi, and pizza. You'll find Sichuan Hot and Sour Soup back to back with Louisiana Gumbo, Caesar Salad back to back with Panzanella, Thai Noodles vs. Spaghetti Carbonara--and a whole delicious world of food in between. The same is true for other chapters: you'll find fish, vegetable, meat, and poultry main dishes from all corners. The only criterion for inclusion is McNair's enthusiasm for a dish, and he has proved the value over the years of his Good Food Radar.  There are sections on condiments and relishes, various breads, and all the basics such as stocks and classic sauces.There is a selection of those famous, well-designed McNair food photos that can set the most unrepentant misanthrope to menu and party planning. But this is not only a book for special occasions. If McNair has one credo, it would seem to be Eat Great Food at Every Meal. And that includes breakfast.--Schuyler Ingle