Cooking with David Burke
Burke's attention to the details of culinary preparation and his instinctive eye for food as art are well-known and reflected in this accomplished book. In his chapter "Small Things/Large Flavors," for instance, Burke discusses pantry basics and batterie de cuisine. Tools and garnishes are detailed first, followed by chapters on "building a dish" with fish, shellfish, fowl and meat. Flavored oils, vinaigrettes and sauces merit their own chapter, as do appetizers and small meals. Burke demonstrates his flair for presentation not only in the food itself, but in table setting and ambiance suggestions for the dining room. "Chili looks best in pottery, fish looks best on porcelain," he says. The final chapter on presentation reveals Burke's whimsical approach to trompe l'oeil in serving food: consomme can be served in a brandy snifter, and breadsticks in a vase. Though such notions might suggest an overly refined palate, Burke serves food that is hearty and unpretentious, such as a black bean soup with shrimp and jalape?o jack cheese quesadillas topped with salsa. More ambitious dishes, such as barbecued squab with cheddar corn cakes, onion and pistachio marmalade, and pistachio wafers still appear surprisingly accessible. Directions are clear and succinct, with substituitions offered for exotic or seasonal ingredients. Home cooks who entertain frequently will find this book a trove of ideas, while aspiring professional chefs will get realistic insights into the long hours and hard work required to succeed in food service. Photos not seen by PW.Copyright 1994 Reed Business Information, Inc.