Dishes from the Wild Horse Desert: Norteo Cooking of South Texas
Guerra, host of the PBS seriesThe Texas Provincial Kitchenand author of a cookbook by that name, provides an overview of Texan border fare. More than 100 recipes are divided by type, such as "Salsa and Chiles," "Rice and Beans" and "Game and Goat," and the anecdotes preceding each recipe lend a warm, conversational tone. The region's flavorful cuisine is firmly rooted in Mexican tradition, with ingredients like corn tortillas,queso cotija(a common grating cheese), and either tomatoes or salsa appearing in most dishes. Spicy-food lovers will be thrilled, as chile peppers like serrano, ancho and chipotle infuse much of the food with fiery taste. Though some of the recipes may intimidate beginner cooks with their multiple steps and lengthy preparation, many, including Chalupas Compuestas ("Composed" Toasted Tortillas) and Migas con Huevos (Crumbs with Eggs), are simple enough for novices. Bold flavors continue into the desserts chapter, with Pepitoria (Pumpkin Seed Brittle) and Grapefruit Blossom Cake with Browned Butter Frosting. The color and b&w photos evoke the ranch culture the area is known for, and sidebars on regional traditions (e.g., instructions on grinding chiles for salsa, an explanation of local alcoholic beverages) further flesh out this culturally rich topic.(Apr.)Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.