The Bajun Islands and Birikau

APPROXIMATELY 600 miles south of Cape Guardafui, and practically on the Equator, are the Bajun Islands (pronounced Bar-Joon) which lie within 3 miles of the main coast, not far from the boundary of Italian Somaliland and Kenya Colony. The mainland of Eastern Africa, which stretches 200 miles or more inland towards the boundary of Abyssinia in a westerly direction, is as dry, sandy, and arid as those six hundred sun-scorched miles stretching towards Guardafui; and the character of the country does not change until it reaches the Tana River, which now forms the boundary between Italian and British territories. From this river southerly the country becomes more tropical in vegetation, and most of the coast-line where there are no inhabitants is thickly clothed with dense bush or forest. The Bajun Islands are a part of a coral reef which runs from Zanzibar, 200 miles farther south, to a point opposite Kismayu and Italian Somaliland, whence I sailed in 19I3 in a small boat to visit the Islands. Kismayu was at that time in British East Africa (now known as Kenya Colony), but after the war it was ceded to the Italian Government. I was then British Political Officer at Kismayu and was responsible for the Administration of Jubaland, as it was then called, as well as for keeping in check the warlike Somalis who roamed with their flocks and herds over the wide area comprising that province. I decided to explore the coast-line and the islands lying off it, and to leave the exploration of the hinterland for another time. I ordered the Administrative sailing-cutter, with her smart crew of six Somalis, to be ready for a week's absence; so her spars, mast, and sails were overhauled, and sufficient rations put aboard to last us for that period. Early one morning we embarked from the little Kismayu jetty, and sailed out of the harbour before a fresh land breeze. Outside the protecting arms of the harbour we felt the breeze more noticeably and the cutter danced gaily through the little waves, purling along at a steady rate and leaving quite a wake behind her. The coral reef which stretches from Kismayu to Zanzibar is not continuous, but broken here and there; and it is through these gaps that deeper-draught vessels make their way in and out of the East African harbours, such as Kismayu, Lamu, and Mombasa. But sailing-boats and dhows usually keep inside the reef, so as to avoid the heavy swells which roll in from the Indian Ocean and break in thundering foam on outcropping rocks. Occasionally we passed high-pooped double-masted dhows with heavy hulks and square bows making their way towards Mombasa laden with hides and often carrying cattle on their decks. They are owned by Indian merchants, and not only trade up and down the coast but also sail across to India from East Africa during the favourable monsoons. Other craft which we saw passing were long low piratical-looking vessels with huge lateen sails, usually manned by Swahilis or coast natives. These mostly trade in fish and copra (dried coconut), for which there is a steady demand in Zanzibar and Mombasa. Overhead a brilliant tropical sun blazed down, making the water sparkle

Topic: Global Maritime and Colonial Histories
Subfield: Anthropology
Field: Social Sciences
Domain: Social Sciences