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from her brood of three, fortunate youngsters who were but waifs until she sought them out in their scattered homes. Popular in Paris, Miss Bayes in Paris is equally as popular as in New York. When she arrived two weeks ago she was surrounded by friends who wished to entertain her, by men and women anxious to solicit her aid for charitable affairs. The other night she sang at a gala for the Charité Maternelle; in a few days she sings again at the Hôtel Ritz for the benefit of the Phare de France. She leaves soon to open her London season at the Alhambra. But it is not of her personal, social or stage triumphs that Miss Bayes likes to talk. It is only of her three adopted children, of Norton’s soft brown eyes and winning ways, of Leah’s quickly-learned French, of tiny Peter’s piano solos. It is a happy group that makes up the Bayes family, or rather the Friedland family, in the New York home where Mr. Benjamin Lester Friedland, the capitalist and his wife, Nora Bayes, are bringing up their adopted trio. As yet the children do not know that the two they call Mama and Papa are not their real parents. That will all come in time, Miss Bayes says, because she believes in perfect truth and confidence established between parent and child early in life. So that as soon as they are old enough to understand they will be told. It is a cosmopolitan family. Norman, now nine, is a little Polish boy; Leah, seven and a half, is a daughter of France, and Peter, is a ruddy-cheeked little English lad. GIFTS 23, Rue des Capucines, PARIS JEWELRY, PEARLS, NOVELTIES. Telephone Central 5290. IMITATIONS! BOOKS. OLD BOOKS, ENGRAVINGS, ETCHINGS. GUILLET & CO, 7, Rue de Maubeuge, PARIS (near Carrefour des Châteaux) Telephone: Trudaine 6470. EDWARD W. TITUS, Montparnasse, PARIS. Current English and American Books. Unusual Books, First Editions. CIRCULATING LIBRARY of NEW BOOKS. 809 SELLER & PUBLISHER. WATCHES LEON COL, 15, Rue Tronchet (Nr. Madeleine), PARIS. Telephone: Central 6486. PATEK AND LONGINES WATCHES. (REPAIRS
it is quite shallow in front and ties close to the throat. Chinchilla is used for the collar of a black broadtail coat built on severe lines for evening wear. The collar is gathered into the broadtail revers which influences the high, ruffled luxurious line which women like so well. Mink, which seems to be perpetually popular, is shown in a slightly flared coat. This flare is introduced through a broad inset hemline at the back of the coat. The pelts are intricately worked in a waving line which marks the modified flare. Scarves and Trimmings. One of the most significant features in furs is the fox scarf such as Vanek shows in so many beautiful models. Blue fox and silver fox, beige in a number of tones, red fox and crossed foxes—all enter into the field. Softer furs are used on the skirts of coats, especially if the fur is used in separate sections in staircase fashion as a decorative note. Jenny makes an interesting use of fur on the coat sleeve by placing it above the edge of the sleeve. This infers a shorter sleeve than it is in reality. Separate fur collars are a feature of Several of the houses. They are intended for wear with the day-time frock and they have been shown in the mid-season collections which hint of early autumn styles. Martial et Armand show one of these in summer ermine tied with a saucy black ribbon at the back. Could anything be more feminine? Bernard et Cie. work fur in diagonal motifs which remind one of striped satin ribbons. This fur is fashioned in cravats for wear with the tailored suit or the autumn coat, as one prefers. COURT GOWNS BY WORTH The Maison Worth’s London branch has created many of the successful Court gowns this season. Mrs. Alanson B. Houston, wife of the American Ambassador, selected sable. Mrs. Clarence Graff chose a Worth gown in pink georgette embroidered in diamonds, with the pink velvet train embroidered in diamonds and silver to match the gown. Green chiffon, embroidered in pearls and diamonds, is
of the houses. They are intended for wear with the day-time frock and they have been shown in the mid-season collections which hint of early autumn styles. Martial et Armand show one of these in summer ermine tied with a saucy black ribbon at the back. Could anything be more feminine? Bernard et Cie. work fur in diagonal motifs which remind one of striped satin ribbons. This fur is fashioned in cravats for wear with the tailored suit or the autumn coat, as one prefers. COURT GOWNS BY WORTH The Maison Worth’s London branch has created many of the successful Court gowns this season. Mrs. Alanson B. Houston, wife of the American Ambassador, selected sable. Mrs. Clarence Graff chose a Worth gown in pink georgette embroidered in diamonds, with the pink velvet train embroidered in diamonds and silver to match the gown. Green chiffon, embroidered in pearls and diamonds, is the choice of Mrs. J. Haskell; the velvet train matches the gown and it is lined with the chiffon and trimmed with chinchilla fur. MAX shows this luxurious evening cape in the new amber ermine with the fox collar and hem in the same tone of “ambrée.” GRUNWALDT uses light grey baby goat for this sports coat, “Nébuleuse.” The collar and cuffs are in three graduated shades of grey astrakhan. SPOTTED CALF SHOWN IN NEW SUNSHADES The spotted calf coat, the spotted calf bag, shoes and hats are to be outdone by that summertime seaside necessity—the sunshade. One of the later uses of the exceptionally popular fur is for the typical sunshade such as one sees at the famous resorts in torrid summer days. Both black and white and brown and white types are shown in Paris. In all models the handle as well as the cover is developed in spotted calf. Where this favorite medium will lead us now is difficult to say. ANNOUNCEMENTS. Médailles d’Or. Exposition des Produits de Décoration & Industriels Modernes. Paris 1925 tonne de lingerie Illustrated Catalogue Free on Request Marguerite Simoneau, rue d’Albion (9) 24-25, télègeuvre 39-11 UNDERARM LINGERIE IN SMART LINGERIE With the
grey baby goat for this sports coat, “Nébuleuse.” The collar and cuffs are in three graduated shades of grey astrakhan. SPOTTED CALF SHOWN IN NEW SUNSHADES The spotted calf coat, the spotted calf bag, shoes and hats are to be outdone by that summertime seaside necessity—the sunshade. One of the later uses of the exceptionally popular fur is for the typical sunshade such as one sees at the famous resorts in torrid summer days. Both black and white and brown and white types are shown in Paris. In all models the handle as well as the cover is developed in spotted calf. Where this favorite medium will lead us now is difficult to say. ANNOUNCEMENTS. Médailles d’Or. Exposition des Produits de Décoration & Industriels Modernes. Paris 1925 tonne de lingerie Illustrated Catalogue Free on Request Marguerite Simoneau, rue d’Albion (9) 24-25, télègeuvre 39-11 UNDERARM LINGERIE IN SMART LINGERIE With the well-earned reputation of having the most exquisite lingerie in the world, Paris is proving the happy hunting ground for this part of the wardrobe as American visitors pour into the gates daily. As a striking example of all that Paris offers in the way of hand-made lingerie, the specialty shop of “Leone” in the Rue des Petits-Champs affords many smart new styles in combinations, chemise and nightgowns, just the kind that sends a woman into rapturous exclamations when each model is displayed to her. Rather narrow escrit lace, with the pattern outlined in gold, trims a smart little combination which laces at the sides with the pink crêpe de Chine which forms the body of the garment. Breton lace in large triangles makes almost the whole of a full combination which is trimmed with long, slim triangles of crêpe de Chine—pink, of course, as most women prefer it to yellow, blue or green, all of which can be had chez Leone. In some of the models the lace motif is cut out, and applied to the crêpe de Chine around the hem, across the top and along one side. A boléro line is shown in one of the nightgowns, cleverly
of “Leone” in the Rue des Petits-Champs affords many smart new styles in combinations, chemise and nightgowns, just the kind that sends a woman into rapturous exclamations when each model is displayed to her. Rather narrow escrit lace, with the pattern outlined in gold, trims a smart little combination which laces at the sides with the pink crêpe de Chine which forms the body of the garment. Breton lace in large triangles makes almost the whole of a full combination which is trimmed with long, slim triangles of crêpe de Chine—pink, of course, as most women prefer it to yellow, blue or green, all of which can be had chez Leone. In some of the models the lace motif is cut out, and applied to the crêpe de Chine around the hem, across the top and along one side. A boléro line is shown in one of the nightgowns, cleverly introduced by the inset bands of delicate lace in the bodice. For color variation, “Leone” uses old rose crêpe de Chine in a nightgown decorated with appliqué motifs of blue and yellow butterflies. White georgette forms a big “U” yoke in another nightgown which is joined to the crêpe de Chine, forming the pleated body of the gown, by tiny cut flowers inset with punch-stitching. “Leone” knows well the practical side of things in times of heat and she proves her knowledge in many ways, including a dressing gown which is made of pink brocaded silk banded with satin. The cut follows the lines of a man's double-breasted waistcoat, while the sleeves are elbow length—both practical ideas, for how well women know the story of trailing sleeves and dressing gowns that refuse to set well in the side closing. GOLD KNEE-BRACELETS CREATE NEW SENSATION One of the most sensational creations of the season, the gold knee-bracelet, brought on by Promet, is heralded as one of the important departures in the matter of accessories. The cable chain knee-bracelet, sometimes ornamented with either lapis Lazuli or with turquoise to match the necklace, comes as a definite part of the jewelry ensemble. With
Chine, forming the pleated body of the gown, by tiny cut flowers inset with punch-stitching. “Leone” knows well the practical side of things in times of heat and she proves her knowledge in many ways, including a dressing gown which is made of pink brocaded silk banded with satin. The cut follows the lines of a man's double-breasted waistcoat, while the sleeves are elbow length—both practical ideas, for how well women know the story of trailing sleeves and dressing gowns that refuse to set well in the side closing. GOLD KNEE-BRACELETS CREATE NEW SENSATION One of the most sensational creations of the season, the gold knee-bracelet, brought on by Promet, is heralded as one of the important departures in the matter of accessories. The cable chain knee-bracelet, sometimes ornamented with either lapis Lazuli or with turquoise to match the necklace, comes as a definite part of the jewelry ensemble. With bracelets matching, as well as necklace, all must carry out the relative theme. Ear-rings, too, happily unite all these elements in the ensemble. CHILDREN’S STYLES ANNOUNCEMENTS. DRESSES — COATS: Ready to wear, expert quality. PROMPT DELIVERY. BERTHE St JEANNE CHAUSSEE D'ANTIN (Entrance: 66, Rue de Provence), PARIS.— Elevator. — Telephone: 69-95 Trudaine. Coral and old rose are two of the colors shown a great deal for both the small girl and her very young brother. For the boy, there is a suit with the trousers in duvetyn and the white crêpe de chine blouse embroidered in the deep rose shade. Another is in linen; the white blouse is embroidered in pensant motifs round the square neckline and down the side opening. Simple little frocks with embroidery and pleatings are shown for the little girl. ARMAND, Tailor-Shirtmaker, 29, Faubourg Poissonnière, Paris, gives every satisfaction. Telephone: Provence 42-87. — (Announcement.) TUNIC COATS AS NEW TOPIC IN PYJAMA MODE Brocade Smoking Jackets in Rose Tones—English Silks for Ties—“Fil-à-fil” in Handkerchiefs. Despite the relatively limited number of items to be discussed in men’s wear, a day in a few of the shops in Paris shows any number of new and different ideas. In few
69-95 Trudaine. Coral and old rose are two of the colors shown a great deal for both the small girl and her very young brother. For the boy, there is a suit with the trousers in duvetyn and the white crêpe de chine blouse embroidered in the deep rose shade. Another is in linen; the white blouse is embroidered in pensant motifs round the square neckline and down the side opening. Simple little frocks with embroidery and pleatings are shown for the little girl. ARMAND, Tailor-Shirtmaker, 29, Faubourg Poissonnière, Paris, gives every satisfaction. Telephone: Provence 42-87. — (Announcement.) TUNIC COATS AS NEW TOPIC IN PYJAMA MODE Brocade Smoking Jackets in Rose Tones—English Silks for Ties—“Fil-à-fil” in Handkerchiefs. Despite the relatively limited number of items to be discussed in men’s wear, a day in a few of the shops in Paris shows any number of new and different ideas. In few minutes one finds new topics at Facio Heberer in the Avenue de l’Opéra. Take the pyjama mode, for instance. One begins to think that it is mainly a matter of soft collars, permanent trouser cuffs, and contrasting pipings. With this general idea in mind, it is refreshing to find a new cut. White crêpe de Chine is the medium used for these new house pyjamas, which are a modification of the Russian tunic. There is no collar. That is a change in itself. There are no buttons. Another innovation. The sleeves have no cuffs and are of the same width from shoulder to wrist, which gives a modified flowing movement. Fine white braid binds the neckline, which is cut in a shallow “U” opening in front, while the braid edges the whole suit and divides the sleeves in the centre. Which gives a new line to this detail in the pyjama coat. The trousers are quite full. The tunic may be bloused considerably by means of the broad silk belt which ties at one side. Another item at Facio Heberer is a smoking jacket which is made in a rather large pattern of fruit and flowers brocaded in a soft
new cut. White crêpe de Chine is the medium used for these new house pyjamas, which are a modification of the Russian tunic. There is no collar. That is a change in itself. There are no buttons. Another innovation. The sleeves have no cuffs and are of the same width from shoulder to wrist, which gives a modified flowing movement. Fine white braid binds the neckline, which is cut in a shallow “U” opening in front, while the braid edges the whole suit and divides the sleeves in the centre. Which gives a new line to this detail in the pyjama coat. The trousers are quite full. The tunic may be bloused considerably by means of the broad silk belt which ties at one side. Another item at Facio Heberer is a smoking jacket which is made in a rather large pattern of fruit and flowers brocaded in a soft mixture of silk and wool. Old rose is the dominating color in the design, stressed by the lining in old rose crêpe de Chine, which is used, too, for the revers, pocket and belt. Every house that caters to men is a law unto itself in the choice of patterns for neckwear and handkerchiefs. At Facio Heberer, English silks in striped patterns are preferred for the new ties. The richness and the exceptional quality are undeniable to the touch as well as to the eye. In handkerchiefs, Facio Heberer shows “fil-à-fil” crêpe de Chine in which two sides of the border are in deeper tones than the other two. The centers are in fine checks while the borders are only striped. Checkerboard patterns in two tones of the same color—grey for instance—are noted in other types, while a plain colored border in contrasting tone is used. Rose supplements the grey and serves as an ideal example of the color combinations. Colored pin stripes and checks are used in white georgette handkerchiefs in which the stripes are of six different tones—mauve, brown, red, blue, beige and black. Choice Ladies’ Handbags at Wholesale prices. Manufacturer H. AUBE & CO., 7, Rue de
for neckwear and handkerchiefs. At Facio Heberer, English silks in striped patterns are preferred for the new ties. The richness and the exceptional quality are undeniable to the touch as well as to the eye. In handkerchiefs, Facio Heberer shows “fil-à-fil” crêpe de Chine in which two sides of the border are in deeper tones than the other two. The centers are in fine checks while the borders are only striped. Checkerboard patterns in two tones of the same color—grey for instance—are noted in other types, while a plain colored border in contrasting tone is used. Rose supplements the grey and serves as an ideal example of the color combinations. Colored pin stripes and checks are used in white georgette handkerchiefs in which the stripes are of six different tones—mauve, brown, red, blue, beige and black. Choice Ladies’ Handbags at Wholesale prices. Manufacturer H. AUBE & CO., 7, Rue de la Sourdière (Nr. St. Roch Church.) — (Announcement.) PAINTED MOTIFS ON SHOES For either shoes or stockings to have painted floral motifs is not a new idea, but to have these designs match on both is an innovation brought out by one of the stores in Paris. In each set, the grey, beige or pink-beige kid shoes match the silk stockings. As a general rule, the floral pattern is quite small, especially when it is used round the open top of the shoe, while it winds in vine fashion quite high along the docks of the stocking. The same idea is repeated in silk under vests and mules. A small spray of flowers is painted across the front of the silk vest and along one side over the vamp of the satin mules. GIFTS What shall I take back to our friends? A nice bag from MARGANNE. Come in and see. 217, Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris (Announcement). AN ABC OF FASHIONS F stands for many things. First of all for FABRICS, which are vital to the mode. There is “FLAMINGA,” a crinkly silk in the order of marocain, made by Bianchini. This is popular for afternoon frocks, while other FABRICS, such
the grey, beige or pink-beige kid shoes match the silk stockings. As a general rule, the floral pattern is quite small, especially when it is used round the open top of the shoe, while it winds in vine fashion quite high along the docks of the stocking. The same idea is repeated in silk under vests and mules. A small spray of flowers is painted across the front of the silk vest and along one side over the vamp of the satin mules. GIFTS What shall I take back to our friends? A nice bag from MARGANNE. Come in and see. 217, Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris (Announcement). AN ABC OF FASHIONS F stands for many things. First of all for FABRICS, which are vital to the mode. There is “FLAMINGA,” a crinkly silk in the order of marocain, made by Bianchini. This is popular for afternoon frocks, while other FABRICS, such as crêpe satin, “chine,” the kasha family by Reder, chiffon, and that soft summery material, “FRISKA,” by Meyer are all alluring to the woman who would be well-dressed. F stands, too, for FOX, the popular fur for the scarf which may be worn with suit or ensemble, or which may be dyed to match the coat either for a race costume or for evening wear. Some of the very smart scarves in FOX are made of two foxes and a long pelt falls to the hem of the coat or suit while the other winds about the throat rather snugly or it falls across the shoulders. F stands for FANS, which may be in dyed ostrich colored to match. G stands for GLOVES, an important accessory which completes other accessories or some detail in the costume whether color, trimming, or some special point such as short sleeves, for, in this case, eight-button pull-on gloves are considered very smart. Cuffs of gloves are feathered, embroidered, appliqué in leather or lizard skin, studded with gold or silver nail-heads, and again delicately piped with ribbons or a reptile skin. G stands, too, for GARTERS, so essential to neatness; there seems to be no
be dyed to match the coat either for a race costume or for evening wear. Some of the very smart scarves in FOX are made of two foxes and a long pelt falls to the hem of the coat or suit while the other winds about the throat rather snugly or it falls across the shoulders. F stands for FANS, which may be in dyed ostrich colored to match. G stands for GLOVES, an important accessory which completes other accessories or some detail in the costume whether color, trimming, or some special point such as short sleeves, for, in this case, eight-button pull-on gloves are considered very smart. Cuffs of gloves are feathered, embroidered, appliqué in leather or lizard skin, studded with gold or silver nail-heads, and again delicately piped with ribbons or a reptile skin. G stands, too, for GARTERS, so essential to neatness; there seems to be no end to the varieties of these shown all over Paris. There are lace ones, satin ones, grosgrain and chiffon, all with some elaborate decorative note or a tiny row of rosebuds placed over the shirred ribbons. As a rule, it is much smarter to have the GARTERS match the stocking; if these are black chiffon, then the GARTERS are in black lace. G comes forward as an important letter in its application to GEORGETTE, a fabric which fashions many of the smart gowns for afternoon and evening wear, and which appears plain, embroidered in many ways and sometimes made with the popular cut-work of the season. GIMBEL BROTHERS Mr. McCabe Miss Treganowan Miss Kneeland SAKS, N.Y. Miss La Tier BONWITT TELLER & CO. Miss Dion Miss Aguilera Mr. Adolphe Dreyfus Handkerchiefs Handkerchiefs Dresses Handkerchiefs Corsets Perfumes, toilet articles Embroidery and laces Gimbel Bros., N.Y. „ , Philadelphia. „ Milwaukee. Saks, N.Y. Bonwitt Teller & Co., N.Y. HAUTE MODE REASONABLE PRICES MOR-GUILLOPIA 45, Rue Lamarck, PARIS Tel.: Marcadet 43-95. English Spoken. DRESSES COUTURE MODELS, BEADED MORNING AND AFTERNOON DRESSES AT MODERATE PRICES 101, Rue St.-Honoré, PARIS. Elysée 35.95, PARIS ENGLISH. Jewelry Pèse Madeleine Fey Designer DESSES - CLOAKS CORSETS - LINGERIE
if these are black chiffon, then the GARTERS are in black lace. G comes forward as an important letter in its application to GEORGETTE, a fabric which fashions many of the smart gowns for afternoon and evening wear, and which appears plain, embroidered in many ways and sometimes made with the popular cut-work of the season. GIMBEL BROTHERS Mr. McCabe Miss Treganowan Miss Kneeland SAKS, N.Y. Miss La Tier BONWITT TELLER & CO. Miss Dion Miss Aguilera Mr. Adolphe Dreyfus Handkerchiefs Handkerchiefs Dresses Handkerchiefs Corsets Perfumes, toilet articles Embroidery and laces Gimbel Bros., N.Y. „ , Philadelphia. „ Milwaukee. Saks, N.Y. Bonwitt Teller & Co., N.Y. HAUTE MODE REASONABLE PRICES MOR-GUILLOPIA 45, Rue Lamarck, PARIS Tel.: Marcadet 43-95. English Spoken. DRESSES COUTURE MODELS, BEADED MORNING AND AFTERNOON DRESSES AT MODERATE PRICES 101, Rue St.-Honoré, PARIS. Elysée 35.95, PARIS ENGLISH. Jewelry Pèse Madeleine Fey Designer DESSES - CLOAKS CORSETS - LINGERIE PARIS LONDON W.l ST array new Broadway 75/' EOFF c/o JGS The most fashionable women of the day, and at the same time the most economical, buy their hosiery at HERZBERG’S 6, Rue de Provence, PARIS Same Store at 26, Rue de la Bienfaisance, PARIS The DRESSMAKING DEPARTMENT MODEL GOWNS AND TO ORDER. Z MANTLES AND FURS. JULIAS 17, Rue Saint Florentin, PARIS. ENGLISH. Spoken Tel.: Central 69-11 MARIE-ANNE DRESSES MODELS HATS FURS Lingerie de Luxe. 59, Rue Ste.-Anne (Av. Opéra), Paris. HAUTE COUTURE — MODELS AFTERNOON AND SPORTS DRESSES (Moderate Prices) SAYROB 39, Rue de Liège, Paris. (Pr. St-Lazare Station). ARTISTIC ROBES AND DRESSES FOR EVENING WEAR 17 RUE VIGNON PARIS Tel. Central 03-54 RAPS A RIS CORSETS BERTHE SAVIGNY 20, Rue Royale REDUCING NEW MODELS LINGERIE BODICES TAILORS. KALINA 25, Avenue de l’Opéra, Paris. Is still the best recommended tailor for English Ladies and Gentlemen. Keeps always on hand a large stock of materials for all seasons. Formerly furnisher to the Russian Imperial family. ANNOUNCEMENTS. Theatre and Masquerade Costumes for Sale or Hire. PARIS 16, Fig. St Denis. Tel.: 09-47, 06. Provence. LINGERIE Lingerie de Luxe Pretty embroidered handkerchiefs are our specialty. LILIAN MAUD 20, RUE DU COLISÉE,