jeanflop/post-ocr-correction huggingface dataset:
smart umbrellas with a variety of interesting handles, while the smartest covers are nigger-brown with colored stripes with blue as the second preference. Of course, there are some women who will always prefer a crook-handle umbrella. There are very smart, too. One of the most interesting phases in the Wilson umbrella is the eight-rib model, which is round and gains its cup-like shape thanks to the eight ribs instead of ten. The second type of umbrella, known as the Japanese shape, has sixteen ribs in its frame. Umbrella handles are often selected to match the bag or the shoes or
often selected to match the bag or the shoes or even the trimming on a hat. There are a number of different colors in stained lizard and in snakeskin. Both real and imitation tortoise shell and amber form attractive handles. Shark’s skin, which many people often mistake for shagreen, as well as shagreen itself, are both used for the smart shapes. Crocodile joins the reptilian family and carved wood handles of all kinds of heads take the fancy of some women. Rhinoceros is unusual; if one seeks something unlike all others this may be the preference. Metal mounting is no
others this may be the preference. Metal mounting is no longer smart, except for a tiny band used to mount the silk “dragonue” or silk cord used to hang the umbrella over the arm. Gaby Benda in “A Vol d’Oeuf” at the Theatre Edouard VII wears this gown, “La Reine Légère,” from Patou. It is made in black and white silk velvet embroidered with rhinestones. GIRLS AND DOLLS DRESSED TO MATCH One of the most fascinating ideas in our little girls is that they are dressed like their dolls, or the other way round, if you will. There was a
the other way round, if you will. There was a time, long ago, when the rag bag served as a source of fun to choose scraps from mother’s Sunday best to make dolly a gown “like mother wore” or even that of grandmother. But now even the shops show most attractive dolls with coat and hat exactly like the one displayed beside it for the small miss. Bright red woolen is the basis of these ensembles. CHILDREN’S STYLES A pale blue coat trimmed with grey fur choker-collar and cuffs appeared on a small girl who wore a black satin hat
on a small girl who wore a black satin hat and grey leggings. Ermine muffs and choker-scarves are displayed for the small miss. Black tails are used as the trimming on both scarf and muff. Some twenty schoolboys marched, seriously, in double rows and each smart boy wore a different color and a different type of suit. Grey, several shades of blue and browns and tans were included in the accepted colors. Melon-pink linen embroidered and piped in white is used for the very small girl. The cap sleeves, which vanish completely under the arm, look more as if they
vanish completely under the arm, look more as if they were butterfly’s wings. The rule that the small girls in the family dress precisely alike is sometimes broken by a change seen in an accessory, such as in the case of two small sisters noticed in the Parc Monceau. Both had yellow coats, while one wore a yellow hat and the other a large brown one. Silk crocheted jacket, cap and bootees are shown in white for the baby. White mink trims them. The most dainty touch is in the delicate buttonhole on the wee jacket, made of tiny silk
delicate buttonhole on the wee jacket, made of tiny silk flowers with the idea repeated on the cap. BUYERS IN PARIS RODITI & SONS Miss Boyau Mr. Davis Mrs. de Curieury Miss Mouton Mr. Meunier All articles: Curtains, Furniture All novelties: Porcelain, glasses Novelties, bronzes ALLIED PURCHASING Co. Mr. Wiley Mr. Mayer Mr. Saquin Miss Lindon Miss Rhodes Mr. Wiley Frederick Locser & Co. Kaurnfmann’s Raphael Weill & Co. Herbert Anderson Lord & Taylor Silks Upholstery, Curtains, Suits and coats for men Linen-fabric. Lord & Taylor Trimmings, laces, flowers Silks B. ALTMANN Co. H. Thompson Mr. A. Ross Miss E.
B. ALTMANN Co. H. Thompson Mr. A. Ross Miss E. S. Hough Miss Mary Hennessey Silks Lace-curtains, upholstery Woolens, novelties Lingerie ASSOCIATED MERCHANDISING CORPORATION, Mr. Bacon Silks Mr. Smith Shoes Miss Beckett Hats dresses, novelties Mr. Cavanaugh Draperies Mr. Cavanaugh Carpets. Miss Kratich Layettes. Misses Fleming Layettes, lingerie B. Altman & Co. Butler's Abraham & Strauss Filene’s Sons The Dayton Co. L. S. Ayres & Co. The Dayton Co. Pierrette Made in “Un Bon Garçon” wears this Lanvin gown in white crepe de Chine hemmed with white cock-feathers; with silver side bow and blue taffeta shoulder puff. NOTES OF DETAILS
side bow and blue taffeta shoulder puff. NOTES OF DETAILS IN ACCEPTED MODE Two-tiered and three-tiered skirts are very popular, whether the tiers are quite flat or whether they are definitely forged by generous pleatings. Pleated skirts are always seen about the tea-dance salons. Apron skirts are worn in great numbers. Smocking over the hips gives skirt fullness in many frocks. Other types are gathered very full; they are sometimes edged with deep bands of fur, such as the one in the illustration. Collars vary as much as any detail in the frock. Some are high and close. Of late
in the frock. Some are high and close. Of late I see an increasing number of square necklines quite low in the front. Scarf collars are ever present. The bateau line has not gone out, nor has the “V” shape. Sleeves graduate from the big, deep arm-hole to the skin-tight variety. Some are puffed at the wrist. Some flare from the elbow. Others are puffed at the elbow only; in fact, this is one of the most popular styles. There are cap sleeves, no sleeves, half-sleeves. One can, in fact, choose almost any kind of sleeve and still be in
choose almost any kind of sleeve and still be in the mode. Fringes often extend from the elbow to the wrist or a long loop of the fabric may fall directly from the wrist. The big sleeve is demonstrated by one in white satin worn with a black velvet fleck. From near the elbow to the wrist, green velvet ribbons are appliquéd in overlapping rows. Straight, slim bodices, brolly themes, and bloused bodices all have their place in the tea-dance mode. Both the hip-high waist-line and the line that approaches normal are seen everywhere—the two extremes. There are quantities of
normal are seen everywhere—the two extremes. There are quantities of tunic frocks with but little of the skirt showing, as in this one we have illustrated. Both belted and unbelted types are worn. The long tunic is usually unbelted, or it is belted across the front only. The sports types of frocks are nearly always belted with a slim belt of the material or snakeskin, but these are rather in the minority, for the dressier frock is worn now. Accessories. On the whole, hats are quite small. They are often tall and draped in all directions, whether through the side
tall and draped in all directions, whether through the side tuck, which is now so popular, or radiating pleats at the back, up the front, on the crown, across the sides or whichever is most becoming to the wearer. Turban types increase in number, often fitting the head smoothly with folds of matching georgette passing round the bandeau. The same type takes another note through its crown built like a tumbling train. Feathers have an important place in trimmings and fringe tassels are seen frequently. The diamond pin cannot be too large and it is smart in almost any part
too large and it is smart in almost any part of the hat. Numbers of these look precisely like the old-fashioned bone hairpin; occasionally I see them placed at the center back of the hat. The great rival of the diamond pin in its numerous flat shapes is the tall set of pins which are altogether like the old-fashioned hatpin. They stand high above the crown of the hat, which, of course, gives height. Black patent-leather shoes are most popular, whether alone in this fabric or combined with snakeskin or trimmed with fine bands of kid. Stockings are usually in
trimmed with fine bands of kid. Stockings are usually in flesh tints, which include a sunburn shade. Ear-rings have interest, for they grow larger and larger. The smartest ones are in antique designs. Jade necklaces increase in number. The diamond or pearl cross gains in popularity. Blanche Montel in "Mlle Jockey" at La Potinière wears this Bechoff gown in lavender-blue georgette, as well as another in which coat and blouse are real snakeskin and the skirt is in kasha. ANKLE BRACELET SET IN STOCKINGS The mode of the ankle bracelet is not a new one in Paris or in any
is not a new one in Paris or in any other large city where fashion moves in advance, but the new wrinkle in evening stockings is that the bracelet is included set into the ankle of the stocking. Inset bands of gold fabric are placed at ankle height and stones are set on these in a straight line, or one that curves near the point where the "bracelet" properly fastens. The stones are in white as well as in colors, especially blue, to represent sapphires. —Strass flowers in the afternoon as well as in the evening. —Big pink fluffy flowers
as well as in the evening. —Big pink fluffy flowers for evening or flowers of the material of the frock which are placed down one side from the shoulder. —Black evening shoes usually in satin. The buckles are often in varied designs of rhinestones, if not in real diamonds. —Pearl bracelets, especially in seed pearls, which are banded in wide rows and often caught with a row of big baroque pearls. —Enormous diamond pendants on slim chains. Sometimes other stones are added to define the design. Jade and marcasite are favorites. —A gold bracelet which is designed to look like
favorites. —A gold bracelet which is designed to look like a belt with the usual buckle, and a long tab end extending from the fastening. The buckle and the bracelet band just behind it are both in black enamel with edges in gold. Choice Ladies’ Handbags at Wholesale prices. Manufacturer H. AUBE & CO., 7, Rue de la Sourdière (Nr. St. Roch Church). IN SHOP WINDOWS Blue linen makes an attractive nightgown trimmed with loops of pink linen round the neck and down the side opening. Fitted cases in snakeskin are shown with emerald-green leather linings. The containers in the
are shown with emerald-green leather linings. The containers in the case are topped and covered with green. Gloves and hosiery painted to match are shown in the window of a shop which specializes in these accessories. Lilies-of-the-valley are one of the favorite themes. Enamelled slipper soles in rainbow patterns are seen in the window of a shoe-shop. The primary colors are used. Each shade is separated by a single row of rhinestones in a waving line. Snakeskin makes the top of a smart shopping bag and black antelope fashion the bottom. The two materials and colors combined are practical, for
bottom. The two materials and colors combined are practical, for the user may carry the bag with many types of ensembles. STYLES FOR GENERAL FAVOR 'SMOKING' FOR THE THEATRE Full-Dress at the Play Not So Prevalent as Dinner-Jacket Mode in Paris. "THEY" WEAR Whether it is the general distaste on the part of the average man to have anything to do with "dressing up" or for some other reason, the average man who goes to the theatre in Paris, even on first nights, seems to prefer the "smoking" or dinner-jacket to the "tails" of full-dress. There are a number, however,
to the "tails" of full-dress. There are a number, however, who adopt full-dress, especially on an opening eve. This was noticed most particularly at the first night of the new revue at the Theatre Edouard VII, when every detail was correct from the latest cut in the dress suit to white gloves and the bright rose or carnation in the lapel. Despite the fact that men in Paris do not seem to like full-dress for the theatre, on the whole, it is refreshing on an occasion such as this to see so many well-groomed men in the orchestra and the
see so many well-groomed men in the orchestra and the boxes. Their appearance has a certain psychological effect—the feeling of prosperity and well-ordered life. A great many men claim that they feel out of place in an opera hat: one sees them in Paris as well as in London, strolling along the highways and into the theatres with the hat carefully folded and tucked under an arm. This may be held accountable for the "smoking," too, for the average man dons his best hard or soft felt hat, whether it is black, grey, or a very deep blue, so blue
is black, grey, or a very deep blue, so blue that it really looks black. Ease Sought. To confess the truth. Men seem to be more at ease in their preferred "smoking." Characteristic details are seen here and there. In addition to the popular single-breasted conventional types of jacket, the ribbed or brilliant silk on the lapels is sometimes in blue-black. Shirts are most frequently in one with the piqué fronts; many have piqué collars and piqué cuffs. The material varies from a very fine stripe to a cornflower weave. Viewing theatre garments for men from the accepted point of
Viewing theatre garments for men from the accepted point of view, the black tie continues to follow the thistle lines which were adopted some time since, the ordinary overcoat is worn at much as any other when the "smoking" is the accompaniment. Fur-lined and fur-collared coats are seen a great deal. They follow both the lines of the single and the double-breasted styles. Black and dark blue are the most popular colors in cloth coats. When full-dress appears, the wearer sometimes chooses the liveress type. London hatters report that there never has been such changes in headgear for many years.
never has been such changes in headgear for many years. Soft hats in bright shades are becoming as popular as the conservative English bowler, Designs for spring forecast even brighter colors. The snap brim soft hat, introduced essentially as one for spring and summer last year, is destined to hold sway this spring. In London, the evening dress coat for the New Year is fairly short and the vest slightly "V-shaped, with four buttons. The lapels are fairly broad and silk-faced to the edge. The trousers are of moderate width and braid down the sides. The double-breasted dress overcoat has
and braid down the sides. The double-breasted dress overcoat has broad shoulders and fits more tightly than of late. The lapels are short and silk-faced to the edge. The United States Navy announces approval of a new garment for sailors when they are on shore leave and it promises to make it available soon. It is a raincoat of black cravenette in civilian style, to be worn over mufti when off duty or as part of the naval uniform for watch-standing and other duties aboard ship. It is intended to replace the oil-skin coat now issued for temporary use. It
replace the oil-skin coat now issued for temporary use. It will cost about $8. The beret cap, so greatly in request in England until early October, is little in demand now, for vivid-hued headgear and wet weather do not harmonize. The future of the Anglicized version of the French beret is a matter of great interest to hat manufacturers. A few regard it as a passing phase, but others hold the view that it was so late in jumping into general favor this year that it is almost bound to be continued with equal or more vigor in the spring.
be continued with equal or more vigor in the spring. FURS WHITE VELVET SHAWLS SEEN FOR WEAR IN EVENING In the accepted mode which we see about Paris one of the most attractive ideas is that of the white evening shawl which, of course, accompanies the white gown. The shawl is embroidered in a floral pattern in the corners, in white chenille. The heavy silk fringes which extend to great depths are white also. A MOST UNUSUAL COLLECTION OF SILVER AND OTHER RARE FOX SKINS HAVE BEEN COLLECTED AND ARE ON DISPLAY. OUR CLIENTS ARE INVITED TO MAKE THEIR SELECTIONS,
ON DISPLAY. OUR CLIENTS ARE INVITED TO MAKE THEIR SELECTIONS, A LA REINE D'ANGLETERRE 249, Rue Saint-Honoré PARIS ANNOUNCEMENTS. ANNOUNCEMENTS. You must see the fabulous furs of Dittonville (FLOR) DIITTOIME IN THEIR ELEGANT DISPLAY COVERTURE 4-6, RUE DU HAYE PARIS DU MANTEAU 12, RUE GAMBETTA "SHARVITZ." Maison Rubin 12, AVENUE DE VERDUYN NICE THE EVENING PAPER OF PARIS THE PARIS TIMES.—No 90T THE MORNING PAPER OF THE CONTINENT In Paris and the Provinces; Sunday Session Debates Budget Deputies Vote Army Credits with More Than Expected Speed—Military Debate Due in January. In line with its announced intention to have the Budget
In line with its announced intention to have the Budget of 1927 voted and a law before the end of the year, the French Chamber of Deputies is holding a special session today to discuss the Aviation Section of the Budget. A rapid vote is expected on it as on the remaining sections in the expenditure side of the Budget. Greater difficulties for the cabinet are possible when the revenue side comes to be discussed. The Chamber yesterday voted the War Budget with even more speed than had been anticipated, although M. Painlevé, the Minister of War, was compelled to
although M. Painlevé, the Minister of War, was compelled to put the question of confidence several times to secure adjournment of debate on specific clauses. Each time he carried his point. In the short period allowed each orator, there was nevertheless some discussion of the Government's military policy. A great debate thereon is due in January, after the Budget is out of the way. Speaking for the Government, M. Painlevé announced that it is working towards the one-year term of compulsory service but that a period of transition is inevitable. In order not to delay the general Budget, he refused
In order not to delay the general Budget, he refused to permit debate for the present on the courts-martial, suppression of which is demanded, or on the proposed abolition of penal servitude for offenders against military law. The pay of the French soldier remains fixed at five sous a day, despite Communist and Socialist insistence that it be increased. The ration allowance is raised from 80 centimes to 1 fr. daily per man. Next year, the 170,000 men and 10,000 officers in the class of 1920 will be called up for a period of training. For 1927, according to the
for a period of training. For 1927, according to the report on the War Budget read to the Deputies, the French Army will be slightly smaller numerically than in 1926. But its cost will be greater by 1,003,000,000 francs or a total of 5,842,000,000 fr. The increase is due to the higher cost of living, the "exchange allowance" to be given the French Occupational Army, the cost of calling up the reserves and the wages of civilian employees now being hired in view of an eventual shorter term for conscripts. American Overcomes Thief. Mr. W. Tudor Wilkinson, an American art
American Overcomes Thief. Mr. W. Tudor Wilkinson, an American art dealer in Paris, has met and put to flight a burglar whom he found in his residence at 15, Quai d'Orléans. Moreover, he captured the intruder's coat during the battle and papers were found leading to the identification of the man and to his arrest. Mrs. Wilkinson was awakened by a noise and she informed her husband. He surprised the prowler in an adjoining room and a struggle followed in which the thief was worsted. In order to escape, he slipped out of his coat, climbed out of a window
slipped out of his coat, climbed out of a window and dropped to the ground. When his military papers were found, however, the police did not waste any time in locating him in a café and placing him under arrest. LITTLE OLD NEW YORK Women Pay to Learn the Bitter Truth About Their Charms. They May Dress Smartly Ever After. THE TALK OF LONDON Smith, Acquitted, Is Sentenced to One Year Hard Labor.—Judge Makes a Comment. American Killed by Train. Mr. P. G. Robbins, second assistant engineer of the United States Shipping Board steamer Edgemoor, was instantly killed by a
States Shipping Board steamer Edgemoor, was instantly killed by a freight train last night in the docks at Havre. Owing to darkness, he failed to see an obstruction and stumbled, falling in front of the passing train. Insane Woman Wins Fortune. Dame Fortune plays strange tricks. A widow, Mme. Lombard, an inmate of the Clermont insane asylum, has been informed that she is the winner of a 1,000,000fr. lottery prize of the Crédit National. She greeted the news with: “A million! Pceuh! I have plenty of millions that I will never even spend.” Mme. Lombard was placed in the asylum
never even spend.” Mme. Lombard was placed in the asylum last May when found mildly insane and penniless. Steps are now being taken to invest her new fortune so that she will benefit from the income. She is to be moved to a private asylum. Cousin Threatens Death. “I have just seen my doctor, and he says I have only three months to live.” André F. Patriquin, thirty-three years old, living in Paris, said yesterday when he called upon his cousin, Mlle. Henriette Goriali, an Armenian, twenty-one years old. “Say your prayers, I am going to kill you.” The girl
your prayers, I am going to kill you.” The girl shouted, and a man ran into the room in time to prevent her from being stabbed with a long knife. Patriquin was arrested. HOTELS & RESORTS WINTER SEASON AT BIARRITZ BRACING CLIMATE MOUNTAINS AND SEA Average winter Temperature 55 deg. Fahr. CELEBRATED GOLF LINKS CENTRE FOR EXCURSIONS IN THE PYRÉNÉES AND SPAIN Numerous Hotels offering all modern Comforts at Inclusive Winter Terms. Thermal Springs & Dieting Establishment For information apply to the SYNDICAT D'INITIATIVE, BIARRITZ (Basses-Pyrénées.) The “dress consultant” has made her appearance in New York. Women who would learn
made her appearance in New York. Women who would learn to appear at their best, before her to have their personality prescribed for. The client first fills a questionnaire. She tells the kind of town she lives in, the sort of life she leads, what her dress needs are, whether she has any physical defects and in general how she would like to look. The consultant outlines a course of dress treatment on little cards that she slips into the purse for reference in shopping. The cards list all manner of do's and don'ts in apparel for all sorts of
of do's and don'ts in apparel for all sorts of occasions. A glance reminds her whether she can wear yellow for evening, what sort of neckline is most becoming and whether wide girdles are taboo. She receives a chart showing an outline figure on which an “X” marks the points to watch—a shoulder held high or weight that may be concealed by carefully-chosen lines. The consultant makes a special study of the personality of the subject and suggests how it may be brought out or subdued for the most pleasing effect. “Dress is one course in the university of life
effect. “Dress is one course in the university of life that is not elective,” observes the dress consultant. “We’ve got to take it and we might as well make the most of it. “I had two classes of women in mind in offering this service. Firstly there is the business or professional woman who has little time to shop. Secondly there is the small-town woman who comes to New York once, or twice a year and feels that there is something wrong about her clothes —that she fails to look smart.” New York has long known the professional shopper. More
smart.” New York has long known the professional shopper. More recently “fashion advisers” have been provided by some department stores. But they aid customers only in making the purchases at hand. The dress consultant aims to lay down general principles to guide until styles change and to help her client to develop the knack of shopping for herself. In doing this, she analyses each client pitilessly but constructively. What it amounts to is a Bitter Truth Service. Women pay to be told things that coming from their best friends would result in mayhem. Perhaps the service may be extended from