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Chris Vinson told me that they can hold body weight after hammering them in, before the glue sets.  That sounds like a good deal, except I'm dubious about whether it's a good idea.  The bar stock looks a little skimpier than the glue-in eye bolts I'm used to seeing around the local crags.  What do y'all think?  Has anyone used these in NH (Rumney, crags along the kanc, etc)? 

Anyone got an overhanging route under development and want to give a couple of these things a try? 

My personal opinion FWIW is that the emphasis of strength is over done.  These bolts are super strong pullout specks but who cares .  once it is strong enough to break your climbing rope it is a moot point.  My concern is that they are only 1/4" stock so useing them in any anchor aplication where wear is a concern is a super bad idea because they will be a real bitch to replace.  even rigging them with quick links I could see how you may end up with a wear issue over time.  personaly I would not place one anywhere that is going to get high traffic.  In short a very strong anchor with not enough beef for longevity INMOP

Thanks for the feedback.  I agree, while I am sure the relatively thin bar stock is strong, I think it ought not be placed where wear might be a concern.  And while cost is a factor, I do think than when placing any glue-in bolt, the price ought not be a factor unless all other things are equal. 

Still, the ability to hold body weight before glue sets is intriguing.  I'll let you know what I find while testing them out! 

Pete, I have heard that some developers have had to put in 'temporary' expansion bolts to hold themselves in when equipping a steep or roofy route with glue-in bolts.  No, I do not think Rumney but down South.  So for them a glue-in which can take body weight before the glue sets might just be the right thing. 

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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

removeable bolts are some folks answer to working under roofs.  Cheap non stainless work bolts annother answer.  you drill them deep and then pound em in when you are done.  I would use the wave on a roof that will not see a ton of action but not for top anchors or something that a lot of folks might bail from. 

When Arno was putting up The Great A Ha on Whitesides he would drill a hole on lead, put in an RB, and keep on going, then Ordner would put in the permanent bolt while cleaning the pitch.  A little convoluted, but could be due to the reaction Arno got when he broke out the gas drill to put up Warrior's Way.  He was falsely accused at the time of rap bolting WW--he did it ground up on lead--but for a lot of us the power drill was enough of a transgression at the time.  In fact, ML and I were over on the right side of the face on the OR or Traditions or something and heard the drill wailing away over near Little Miss Dangerous and shouted over, 'You wait until Arno finds out what you're doing, he's going to kick your ass!'  We were pissed, no one, that we knew of at the time, had used a power drill in the Cashiers area.  When we got back to the parking lot there was only one other vehicle there, a pick up truck with a gas can in the back, so I said, 'OK, MF, and took the gas can.  Petty, but it was 20 years ago, so maybe I've grown up.  mark called me later and said, 'That was Arno!'  We didn't know what to make of that.  Sorry about the gas can, dude.