Jelaskan where dari Lambak dalam bahasa sunda

g = akselerasi alatan gravitasi di pabeungeutan Bumi;

In deep water, where , so  and the hyperbolic tangent approaches , , in m/s, approximates , when  is méasured in meters.

This expression tells us that waves of different wavelengths travel at different speeds. The fastest waves in a storm are the ones with the longest wavelength. As a result, when after a storm waves arrive on the coast, the first ones to arrive are the long wavelength swells.

When several wave trains are present, as is always the case in the océan, the waves form groups. In deep water the groups travel at a group velocity which is half of the phase velocity. Following a single wave in a group one can see the wave appéaring at the back of the group, growing and finally disappéaring at the front of the group.

As the water depth  decréases towards the coast, this will have an effect on the speed of the crest and the trough of the wave; the crest moves faster than the trough. This causes surf, a bréaking of the waves.

Individual "freak waves" (also "rogue waves", "monster waves" and "king waves") sometimes occur in the océan, often as high as 30 meters. Such waves are distinct from tides, caused by the moon and sun's pull, tsunamis that are caused by underwater earthquakes or landslides, and waves generated by underwater explosions or the fall of meteorites.

The movement of océan waves can be captured by wave energy devices. The energy density (per unit aréa) of regular sinusoidal waves depends on the water density , gravity acceleration  and the wave height  (which is equal to twice the amplitude, ):

The velocity of propagation of this energy is the group velocity.