C 143/18
8.2.
EN
Official Journal of the European Union
31.3.2022
Quality-related, historical, cultural and social link and geographical environment of the white wine
H is t or i c a l l i nk On the trail of the wine-making tradition of Santorini, we journey back in time to the third millennium BC.
In the excavations of Akrotiri, finds such as charcoal from vine wood and bunches of grapes as decorative motifs in vasepainting of the time show that wine-growing was one of the main activities of the population.
The prehistoric vineyards were destroyed by the great eruption of the volcano, around 1650 BC, which obliterated all trace of human and plant life from the island for some three centuries.
Viticulture and wine production must have been a major component of the economy of Akrotiri at the time of its destruction.
This is confirmed by the physical presence of charcoal from vine wood and grape pips, and also by the special system for treading the grapes and collecting the must.
The treading trough and vat below are essential equipment.
A large basket full of lime, which was found in the treading trough, led archaeologists to think that lime could have served as a type of filter for clearing the must.
The wine was stored in large pithoi (jars) which were sealed with wax.
Indeed, on the neck of such a vessel, symbols scratched in Linear A script have been recognised as referring to wine.
In general, the multiplicity of storage vessels, along with the stirrup jars, found in Akrotiri suggest not only significant wine production, but also a developed trade in wine.
Bunches of grapes were used as decorative motifs in vase-painting of the time.
There is evidence for winemaking and trade in wine in the form of certain types of vessels with spouts close to their narrow bases, as well as the multitude of stirrup jars: pots designed primarily for transporting liquids.
Santorini has thus far furnished at least 50 % of all examples of this early type of vessel found in the Aegean region.
According to Herodotus, the Phoenicians were the first settlers following the catastrophe.
They, and those who followed, had to cope with an extreme environment in order to survive.
In order to meet their nutritional needs, they tried cultivating different species of plants which they brought with them and with which they were familiar.
Only the vine succeeded in surviving through the centuries in Santorini’s hostile environment.
It is an adaptable plant and especially resistant to the hot and dry conditions of the island, with a sturdy and well-developed root system that penetrates the soil of Santorini.
Aspa is the name used by local people for the hard and compact soil formed from multiple layers of volcanic material: ash, lava, pumice and debris.
This aspa covered the limestone and slate subsoil in the course of successive volcanic eruptions.
Centuries of human toil are stamped on the island landscape and bear witness to the efforts of the people of Santorini throughout the ages to dominate their land.
From the archaic and classical periods, we do not have direct evidence of vine cultivation.
But it would be strange if the inhabitants of Santorini did not practise it in such ideal ground.
It is difficult to imagine the presence of rich landowners on Santorini if they were not growing a product that would bring them large profits.
And, to date, such a product has proved to be none other than wine.
From the 12th to the 17th century, the Venetians ruled the island of Santorini.
From the outset, Europeans appreciated Greek wines, not only for their quality, but also because they could withstand long sea voyages.
Therefore, Frankish and Venetian ships began carrying ever more wine from Santorini.
The golden age for the wines of Santorini under Venetian rule would come to an end with the final conquest by the Turks.
The wines had had an extraordinary career, with illustrious moments, such as their fame in Paris.
8.3.
Quality-related, historical, cultural and social link and geographical environment of the white wine
Cu ltura l , s oc i al an d ec o n om ic l in k s Vines and wine have been inseparably linked to the cultural, social and economic lives of the people of Santorini since ancient times.
Santorini has always combined great productivity with quality and an outward-looking disposition.
Under Turkish rule, the lack of extensive croplands meant that Muslim populations did not settle.
The people of Santorini organised their communities democratically and, taking full advantage of the peace that reigned in the Aegean following the Ottoman conquest, they developed trade and shipping, as in prehistoric times.
Alexandria, Taganrog and Constantinople were the most important centres for the export of large quantities of wine from Santorini.
It is known that, historically, there were exports to Russia from at least 1786.
Indeed, the economy of Santorini declined when exports to Russia stopped on account of the October Revolution.