Farklı liflerden üretilmiş çorapların fiziksel performans ve konfor özelliklerinin kıyaslanması
Comparison physical and comfort proporties of socks which are manufactured by different fibers
Yazar: GÜLSÜM ÖZDEN
Danışman: PROF. DR. HALE KARAKAŞ
İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi / Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü / Tekstil Mühendisliği Ana Bilim Dalı
Derece: Yüksek Lisans, 2015
Konu: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği = Textile and Textile Engineering

Özet:
Yükselen hayat standardı ve tüketim seviyesindeki artıĢ neticesinde giysilerin kullanım özelliklerinin yanında üstün fiziksel performans ve konfor özelliklerinin de olma beklentisi doğmuĢtur. Giysilerin kullanım alanlarının ve kullanım Ģekillerinin çeĢitliliği de bunu gerekli kılmaktadır. Bir rekabet unsuru haline gelen konfor özelliklerini sağlayabilecek yeni lif türlerinin arayıĢına gidildiği görülmektedir.
Konfor; memnuniyet ve rahatlık hissi veya fiziksel ya da ruhsal olarak iyi durumu ifade eden bir terimdir. Konfor fiziksel, psikolojik ve fizyolojik olmak üzere üç baslık altında ele alınmaktadır. Farklı liflerin giysi konforuna ne kadar katkıda bulunduğunu, bu katkıyı sağlarken giysinin fiziksel performansında ne gibi değiĢiklikler oluĢturduğunu tespit etmek amacıyla yapılan bu çalıĢmada lif olarak modal, bambu, soya, tencel, pamuk ve viskon gibi doğal lifler ve Coolmax, Thermolite, Thermocool gibi sentetik esaslı lifler ve kullanılmıĢtır. Seçilen bu lifler, sürekli tene temas halinde bir giysi olan, günlük kullanıma yönelik standart çorap formunda hazırlanmıĢtır.
Bu liflerden elde edilen ipliklerle örülen çoraplar orta ve gevĢek olmaz üzere iki farklı sıklıkta örülmüĢ, böylece örgü ayarının da çorapların performans ve konfor özelliklerine katkısı gözlenmiĢtir. Bu Ģekilde hazırlanan numunelere, çorapların konfor özelliklerini belirlemek için, su buharı geçirgenliği, sıvı transferi, kuruma ve hava geçirgenliği testleri; fiziksel performansını tespit amaçlı olarak patlama mukavemeti, aĢınma, boncuklanma ve boyutsal değiĢim testleri yapılmıĢtır.
Yapılan deneyler neticesinde elyaf tipinin giysi konfor özelliklerine direkt ve dolaylı etkisinin olduğu görülmüĢtür . Çorapların ıslanma davranıĢlarındaki farklılıkların direkt olarak lif tipinden kaynaklandığı tespit edilmiĢtir. Bununla birlikte çalıĢmalar sonucunda çoğu selülozik esaslı olan liflerin giysi konforu üzerine olan etkilerinin farklı seviyede olduğu görülmüĢtür.Thermolite, thermocool ve Coolmax lifleri yüksek fiziksel performans ve hızlı kuruma özelliği sergilediği gözlenmiĢtir.Pamuk ise diğer liflere göre konfor performansının çok asağılarda olmadığı görülmüĢ, hatta fiziksel performansı en yüksek olan elyaf olarak karsımıza çıkmıĢtır. Yapılan çalıĢmada eldeedilen en dikkat çekici sonuç, pamuk ile karıĢım halinde kullanılan liflerdenelde edilmiĢ çoraplar, aynı liflerin %100 oranında kullanıldığı çoraplardan hemkonfor açısından hem de fiziksel performans açısından daha iyi sonuç verdiği görülmüĢtür. Yeni liflerden optimum verim alabilmek için pamuk ile karıĢım halindekullanılması daha uygun olacağı görülmüĢtür.

Abstract:
The expectation is what specialities of using of clothing and additionally the superiorphysical performance and comfort features born in the result of increaserising livingstandards and the level of the consumption. The diversity of using areas of clothes and using types of clothes also makes it necessary. So , new types of fibers are searched to providecomfort features have become a competitive factor.
Comfort is a term that refers satisfaction and feeling relaxation or good status as physical or mental. Comfort is came up under three headings including physical, psychological and physiological. The comfort of clothing can be mentioned when the user is able to ease movement and finds himself adequate aesthetically. Comfort is not only means fully relaxed, but also it is feeling comfortable in the garment whatever the conditions.
Person cannot change the properties of the body and the environment, but he can chance the clothing factor alone. Selecting the properties of clothing depends on person and person chooses the clothing that is most appropriate to the environment is he in. Comfort is an important characteristic to enhance the value of textile products.
Various consumers consider comfort as one of the most important attributes in their purchase of apparel products, therefore companies tend to focus on the comfort of apparel products. Slater defined comfort as "a pleasant state of physiological, psychological and physical harmony between a human being and the environment".
In this study ,natural fibers as modal, bamboo, soybean, tencel, cotton , viscose and synthetic fibers as Coolmax, Thermolite, Thermocool are used for determination how contribution different fibers to clothing comfort and determination of creating what changes in the physical performance of the garment.
These selected fibers are prepared in the form of standard socks is a clothing continuously contact skin for daily using.This is derived from fiber to yarn knitted socks in two different frequency as the middle and loose. Thus effect of knitting setting is observed what contribution performance and comfort features. In this way prepared sample, to determine the comfort properties of the sock, water vapor permeability, fluid transfer, drying and air permeability tests; to purpose of determining the physical performance, bursting strenght, abrasion, thickness, fabric weight, wear, pilling and shrinkage tests are done .
Measurement results are statistically evaluated by IBM SPSS 22.
In vertical wicking analysis fabric samples are immersed into distilled water for 5 minutes and water height is recorded. Vetical wicking is governed by capillary pressure. Fibers with small and smooth pores have high capillarity.
In transfer wicking test liquid transfer between wet and dry fabric samples that are put in rubber discs is measured. Pressure applied by discs simulate the pressure applied to textile materials during use. In transfer wicking test liquid transfer characteristics of fabrics under pressure are analyzed.
Water evaporation rate is a measure of drying rate of a fabric. The most important parameter for water evaporation rate is the fiber regain. Water vapour permeability is important for determination of fabric comfort features because perspiration is excreted from body in vapour form. Fabrics touching the skin should be water vapour permeable. In water vapour permeability the most important parameter is the pores between fibers.
According to examination results, it's seen that fiber type has effects on comfort properties of garments both directly or indirectly. The difference in wetting behaviour of socks was resulted directly from fiber type. Besides it is observed that the effects of the sellulosic fibers on the comfort properties of cloths are different.
Thermolite, thermocool ve Coolmax fibers showed high physical performans and fast drying properties. Wear and burst strength have highest value compared to all other types of fibers but width and height shrinkages are lowest values . When Thermolite fiber is comparable air permeability value for all fiber types , Thermocool and Coolmax fibers has a moderate air permeability. The highest level of pilling is observed the Thermocool and Coolmax Synthetic fiber. This is a major disadvantage for these types of fibers.
These three fiber exhibited the lowest performance as fluid transfer. In addition, very fast drying behavior has been observed .
Tencel fiber which made of cellulose exhibited high dimensional change. Other physical performance values are also moderate, but has seen improvement in physical values in cotton blend. For the wetting behavior , transfer wetting and wicking test showed the highest value. Air permeability was found better level than cotton and viscose.
Cotton was found as not so bad respect to other fibers regarding comfort properties; it has the highest physical performance as well. The most conspicuous result of the project is that socks produced with blend of the other fibers and cotton showed higher performance for bothcomfort and physical properties than the socks produced with 100% of that other fiber. To obtain optimum efficiency from new fibers, it will be useful to use them asblended with cotton.
Generally,test results of loose and medium setting knitted socks showed approximate values each other. Air permeability and water vapor permeability values in the loose setting knitted socks were observed to be better than mid frequency ones.
In this study as seen , expected physical performance of the garment , clothing will be used in what the season, level of comfort features according to use of the clothes should be known for yarn selection. According to determined specialties, options should be done by acquired data.
As a continuation of this study , examining of impact of yarn count, knitting type and the other parameters will contribute in the way of details