Pamuklu örme kumaşlarda yağ sökme prosesinin incelenmesi ve iyileştirilmesi
Observation and improvement of oily soil release process for cotton knitted fabrics
Yazar: FEZA ÇAĞILTAY
Danışman: PROF. DR. NEVİN ÇİĞDEM GÜRSOY
İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi / Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü / Tekstil Mühendisliği Ana Bilim Dalı
Derece: Yüksek Lisans, 2012
Konu: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği = Textile and Textile Engineering
Dizin: Pamuklu kumaşlar = Cotton fabrics

Özet:
Sürdürülebilir bir çevre için, gelecek kuşakların ihtiyaç duyduğu kaynakların varlığını ve kalitesini tehlikeye atmadan, hem bugünün hem de gelecek kuşakların çevresini oluşturan değerleri her alanda (sosyal, ekonomik, fiziki vb.) ıslah etmemiz, korumamız ve geliştirmemiz gerekmektedir. Bu nedenle, çevresel sürdürülebilirlik çevre ile kurulan ilişkinin çevreyi mümkün olduğunca saf haliyle koruma temeline oturtulmalıdır. Birleşmiş Milletler Çevre ve Kalkınma Komisyonu'nun 1987 yılı tanımına göre: "İnsanlık, gelecek kuşakların gereksinimlerine cevap verme yeteneğini tehlikeye atmadan, günlük ihtiyaçlarını temin ederek, kalkınmayı sürdürülebilir kılma yeteneğine sahiptir." Bu anlamda, tekstil terbiye sektörünün çevresel etkileri hakkında artan halk bilinçlenmesi ve endişeleri, artan enerji, işçilik, su ve kimyasal maliyetlerinin yanı sıra yıkama prosesinde lekelerin giderilme derecesini etkileyen tüm faktörlerin (sıcaklık, süre, su ve kimyasal miktarı gibi) optimizasyonunu ve kontrolünü gerekli kılmaktadır. Bu parametrelerdeki değişimin lekenin giderilmesinde büyük rol oynadığı görülmektedir. Minimum enerji, su ve kimyasal ile istenilen maksimum kaliteyi yakalamak esastır.Örme makinalarının yağlanması amacıyla kullanılan makina yağları, zaman zaman örme işlemi esnasında ham kumaşa nüfuz etmekte ve söz konusu yağ lekelerinin boyama öncesinde yapılan ön terbiye işlemleriyle giderilmesi gerekmektedir. Aksi halde bu makina yağı lekeleri istenmeyen görüntüye neden olacak ve üretilen kumaş imalatta kullanılamaz hale gelecektir. Sınırlı olan kaynaklarımızı en iyi şekilde kullanabilmek için boyama işlemleri öncesinde ham kumaşa kalite kontrolü yapılmalı ve yağ lekeleri giderilmelidir.Çalışmamızda; yuvarlak örme makinasında aynı numaradaki ipliklerden farklı desenlerde örülmüş, elyaf, iplik ya da kumaş halinde boya-apre işlemleri görmemiş, muhtelif örgü tipindeki ham %100 pamuk kumaşlar ve kıyaslama yapabilmek için ham %100 viskon örme kumaş kullanılmıştır. Söz konusu kumaşlar üzerine, laboratuvar ortamında, yağlı lekelerin giderilmesi için hazırlanan ve Amerikan metodu olan AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) 130 Metodu esas alınarak örme makinalarında kullanılan bir makina yağı damlatılmış ve daha sonra da yıkayarak kirin giderilmesi yapılmıştır. Kirin kumaşa bağlanması için ağırlık koyma, belli bir sıcaklıkta fikse etme gibi muhtelif şartlar uygulanmıştır. Kirin kumaşa bağlanmasında, kirlenmeden yıkamaya dek geçen sürenin etkini de araştırmak üzere kirli kumaş değişik sürelerde bekletilmiştir. Yine laboratuvar şartlarında yağ lekelerinin giderilmesi için yapılan yıkama işlemi sonrasında, kumaştan uzaklaştırılamayarak kumaşta kalan yağ lekeleri incelenmiştir. Yıkama işlemiyle giderilemeyen yağ lekeleri, kumaşın örgü tipine, elyaf cinsine, yağ içeren kirin hangi şartlarda oluştuğuna ve uygulanan yıkama şartlarına göre gözlemlenerek, söz konusu parametrelerin lekenin giderilmesindeki performansına etkisi mukayese edilmiştir. Ayrıca, bir örgü tipi seçilerek, aynı şartlar altında makina yağı ile kirletilen %100 pamuk ham örme kumaştan yağ lekesinin çıkarılmasında optimum yıkama şartlarının saptanması amacıyla deneyler gerçekleştirilmiştir. Yıkama süresi, yıkama sıcaklığı, yüzeyaktif madde ve yardımcı kimyasal miktarı değiştirilerek optimum yıkama etkisinin belirlenmesi için deneysel çalışma yapılmıştır. Yıkama sonrası Spektrofotometre ile yapılan renk ölçümü ile tüm mamul numunelerinin mamul haldeki standart numuneyle karşılaştırılması yapılarak analizleri tablo ve grafik halinde verilmiştir. Yağ lekelerinin pamuklu örme kumaşlardaki proses optimizasyonu çalışması neticelendirilirken, lekenin en fazla çıktığı, başka bir deyişle en iyi yıkama etki derecesi elde edilen kumaşların, mukavemet, boyutsal değişim ve gramaj değişimleri test edilerek yıkamanın kumaşın fiziksel özelliklerine etkisi de incelenmiştir.Tez kapsamında pamuğun ve viskonun genel özellikleri, pamuklu kumaşlara uygulanan ön terbiye işlemleri ve makinaları, muhtelif kirlerin kumaşa nasıl tutunduğu, kirlerin, özellikle de yağ içeren kirlerin kumaştan çıkarılmasında kullanılan yöntemler ve etki mekanizmaları, yıkamada kullanılan yüzey aktif maddeler, bu yüzey aktif maddelerin çeşitleri, yıkama işlemi sonucunda kalan lekelerin değerlendirilmesi hakkında genel bilgiler verilmiştir.Kumaşın hangi özelliklerinin ve yıkama şartlarının kirlerin kumaştan uzaklaştırılmasına etki ettiği anlatılmış, kirlenme ve yıkama işlemi ile ilgili yapılan çalışmalara değinilmiştir.Çalışma sonucunda kullanmış olduğumuz noniyonik yağ sökücü için pamuklu örme kumaşların yağ sökme prosesindeki optimum yıkama şartları 1,5 g/l yağ sökücü, 20 dakika yıkama süresi, 70°C yıkama sıcaklığı olarak belirlenmiştir (soda kullanmadan, 1:20 flotte oranında). Örgü tipinin makina yağı kirinin giderilmesine etkisinin incelenmesi neticesinde, 40°C'de, 60°C'de ve 80°C'de yapılan yıkama sonucunda gerek açıklık-koyuluk farkı gerekse renk farkı açısından en iyi sonuç süpremden, daha sonra ribanadan, en kötü sonuç da interlok örgü tipinde örülmüş pamuk kumaştan alınmıştır. Yıkamadan önce de en gevşek yapıda olan süprem kumaşın yağ lekesini en fazla gösterdiği görülmüştür.Yıkama işlemi sonucunda kumaşın çekmesinden dolayı gramaj artışı olduğu görülmüştür. Gramaj artışının kumaşın mukavemetini artırması gerekirken, kumaşın mukavemetinin az da olsa düştüğü görülmüştür. 80 °C'de yıkama sonucunda 60°C'deki yıkamaya nazaran sıcaklığın artmasıyla kumaşın daha fazla çektiği ve bu nedenle de 80 °C'de yıkanmış kumaşların daha ağır gramajlı ve daha mukavim oldukları görülmüştür.Pamuk ve viskon ham kumaşlar kıyaslandığında ise; 40°C, 60°C ve 80°C'de yapılan yıkama sonucunda en iyi sonuç viskon kumaştan alınmıştır. Uygulanan lekeleme şartlarının tamamında bu durum gözlemlenmiştir. Uygulanan lekeleme şartı ağırlaştıkça lekenin hem viskon hem de pamuk kumaşta giderilmesinin zorlaştığı anlaşılmıştır.

Abstract:
For a sustainable environment, without risking the natural resources that next generation will need, we must protect and improve social, economics and physical values consisting our environment and as a result, next generation?s environment. For this reason, sustainable environment must be based on keeping the environment as its original as possible. As the 1987 programme of The United Nations Environment Commission says, ?Huminity, without risking the ability to respond the needs of next generations, has the ability to make the development sustainable by providing the daily needs.? The increased public awareness and concerns about the environmental impact of the textile finishing industry, the increased cost of energy, labor, water and chemical costs of washing for soil-release enfluents necessitate the optimization and control of all factors influencing the soil-release quality, including the temperature, time, and chemical quantities employed. These are the most well established influential factors affecting the soil-release quality and must be optimized and controlled. Any change in these parameters affects the result of soil-release process. The results of this study can help to obtain a more appropriate selection of temperature, processing time and chemical quantity for washing in order to remove oily soil from cotton fabric. The aim is to get the best quality with the least energy and the least harm to the environment.Oil is used for lubricating parts of knitting machines such as needles. This oil can be attached to the yarn, so the grey fabric can be soiled by oil. The oil soils the grey fabric and forms stains on the fabric. These oil stains must be released while textile finishing by washing before dyeing and printing textile materials. If not, these stains will cause unwanted appearance and hydrophobic characteristics to fiber, so manufacturers can?t use this stained fabric in production of garments. To use the limited resources in the optimum way, quality control and soil-release process of grey fabric is a must before dyeing and printing the fabric.The aim of this study is to find optimum washing conditions for oily soil release from cotton grey fabric, and also to investigate the effect of construction and fiber type.In this study, three types of circular knitted 100% cotton grey fabrics and one type of circular knitted 100% viscose grey fabric were used. 100% cotton grey fabrics were knitted at different constructions such as single jersey, rib and interlock. 100% viscose grey fabric was knitted as single jersey. They were all manufactured from 30/1 Ne yarns by circular knitting machines. They all weren?t dyed before in the fibre, yarn or fabric form.Rib knitted cotton fabric was used to find the optimum washing conditions with the selected non-ionic surfactant. Rib, single jersey and interlok cotton fabrics were used to see the effect of construction. As it is known that single jersey fabric has the loosest costruction while interlock fabric has the tightest costruction. Viscose single jersey fabric and cotton single jersey fabrics were used to see the effect of fiber type. Cotton is a seed fiber and when impurities are washed away, it is 100% cellulose. Viscose is also a cellulose fiber but it is man made and have different physical and chemical properties.The fabrics were soiled by oil for circular machines at different conditions and then washed, using AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) 130 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method at laboratory. Different conditions applied to the oily stain such as using weight on the soiled fabric and heating the soiled fabric at a certain temperature. To see the effect of time lasting from the beginnig of soiling to washing for soil release, the fabrics were waited at laboratory for different time after oily soiling. After washing, the rest stains were examined and measured by spectrophotometer. The color of rest stains that couldn?t released by washing were measured and evaluated according to type of construction, type of fiber, conditions of soiling and washing. These parameters were compared to determine the performance of soil release process. To optimize the oily soil release process by washing, the cotton fabrics with the same knitting construction (rib) were oily soiled by the same oil at the same condition and then washed at different conditions chinging washing time, washing temperature, the quantity of chemicals, non-ionic surfactant and sodium carbonate. After washing the soiled grey fabrics, the rest stains were measured by spectrophotometer and compared with the standard stain (stain before washing), calculated color difference and lightness difference, and results were explained by tables and graphics. While determination the optimum parameters for the best effect for oily soil release process by washing, the cotton fabrics that were washed under different conditions were also tested to evaluate the bursting strength, dimensional and weight changes to see the effects of washing parameters on the fabrics? physical properties.As literature, general properties of cotton and viscose fibers, finishing processes for cotton fabrics, especially washing process, stain types, mechanisms for soil release, surfactants, evaluation of soil release were written. The parameters affecting the performance of soil release and the previous studies made about this subject were mentioned.The results of the study are as follows.The rib knitted cotton grey fabric was oily soiled and then waited for 1 hour under weight (2.470,71 g) and heat treated at 150°C for 5 minutes. Optimum washing conditions for oily soil release from cotton grey fabric were found as 1,5 g/l surfactant (non-ionic), 20 minutes at 70°C, without sodium carbonate, using 1:20 flotte. In general, sodium carbonate was used to increase pH degree, to make the fiber hydropfilic, to keep the fiber from undesired effects of chemicals, to foam and to soften water. But in this study, using sodium carbonate couldn?t affect soil release success. This might be as a result of the properties of the non-ionic surfactant used in this study and pure water. The pH degree of the surfactant was measured as 8,30 at 21°C. It is seen that as temperature increases soil is removed better. Optimum washing temperature is 70°C. After this temperature the affect of washing was a little bit increased. We can say the same things for washing time and quantitiy of surfactant. On the other hand, as the prescription of the surfactant recommends 0,5-5,0 g/l surfactant (changing as the soil type and quality), temperature above 80°C, washing time of 30 minutes with 1,0-2,0 g/l sodium carbonate.The type of knitting, so the contruction, affected the appearance of oily soil before washing and also the results of oily soil release process. Six different conditions of oily staining were applied to cotton grey fabric with three types of contruction. These six conditions were waiting for 5 minutes after soiling, waiting for 1 hour after soiling, waiting for 1 hour under weight (2.470,71 g) after soiling, heat treatment at 150°C for 1 minute after soiling, waiting for 1 minute under weight and then heat treatment at 150°C for 1 minute after soiling, and, waiting for 1 hour under weight and then heat treatment at 150°C for 1 minute after soiling. The applied weight was 2.470,71 g. Oily stained fabric was darker, more red and more yellow than unstained cotton fabric at all types of construction under all types of soiling. Heat treatment and oily soil made the cotton fabric darker, more red and more yellow. The success of washing process changed as oiling conditions. It was fount that heat treatment before washing made removing oil from the fabric harder. Heat treatment made cotton grey fabric darker, more yellow and more red. As washing temperature increased from 40°C to 80°C, color of grey fabric and stain after washing turned to more blue and more green from yellow and red and also became lighter. The color difference between oily stained and unstained fabrics was the most at the loosest construction (single jersey) and the least at the tightest construction (interlock). After washing at 40°C, 60°C and 80°C, the best results as color difference and light difference between oily stained and unstained fabrics were seen at the loosest construction (single jersey) and the worst results were seen at tightest construction (interlock) after all staining conditions.Washing process for oily soil release reduced the bursting strength of the cotton grey fabrics as a result of the chemical process. This situation can be explained by reduced cotton fiber polimarization degree because of breaking away of fiber chains. This loss in bursting strength of the cotton fabric was measured less than 7%. On the other hand, washing caused shrinkage in cotton fabrics. Because of the shrinkage, the weight per unit area of the fabrics increased. The shrinkage and so the weight increase were more at 80 °C than at 60°C, and the fabrics washed at 80°C were measured with better bursting strength.To see the effect of fiber type on oily soil release success, cotton grey fabric and viscose grey fabric were used to compare. They were knitted as single jersey construction. Cotton grey fabric and viscose grey fabric were stained with oil in six different conditions. These six conditions were such as waiting for 5 minutes after soiling, waiting for 1 hour after soiling, waiting for 1 hour under weight (2.470,71 g) after soiling, heat treatment at 150°C for 1 minute after soiling, waiting for 1 minute under weight and then heat treatment at 150°C for 1 minute after soiling, and, waiting for 1 hour under weight and then heat treatment at 150°C for 1 minute after soiling. The applied weight after dropping oil on fabric was 2.470,71 g. Before washing, the oily stained fabrics were darker for both cotton and viscose for all soiling conditions, but the oily stain on cotton fabric appeared darker and the color difference between stain and unstained part was bigger than the viscose one. The oily stain was more yellow and more red on cotton before washing than stained viscose fabric before washing. It was found that type of fiber affects the appearance of oily soil before washing and also the results of oily soil release process. After all soiling conditions and washing at different temperatures (40°C, 60°C and 80°C), the results were better at viscose fabric than the results of cotton fabric as color difference and lightness difference between the rest stain after washing and unsained fabric before washing.