Kancalı dokuma tezgâhlarında atkı telefinin azaltılması
Reducing the length of the weft waste on rapier weaving looms
Yazar: FERİT DEMİR
Danışman: PROF. DR. HİKMET ZİYA ÖZEK
Namık Kemal Üniversitesi / Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü / Tekstil Mühendisliği Ana Bilim Dalı
Derece: Yüksek Lisans, 2014
Konu: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği = Textile and Textile Engineering

Özet:
Kancalı Dokuma Tezgâhlarında Atkı Telefinin Azaltılması Projesi, mekiksiz dokuma makinelerinin atkı telefini azaltmaya yönelik bir çalışmadır. Dokuma işletmesinde bulunan farklı özellikteki kancalı dokuma tezgahlarında mevcut atkı telefi miktarları bu tez kapsamında ayrıntılı olarak incelenmiş ve optimizasyon çalışmaları yapılmıştır. Yüksek hızlı kamera ile atkı atma prosesi görüntülenmiştir. Yüksek hızlarda atkı üzerine gelen gerilim, kuvvet ve etkiler incelenmiştir. Optimizasyon ve standardizasyon çalışmaları sonrasında atkı atım sisteminde uygun olarak çalışacak bir aparat tasarımı yapılmıştır. Tasarlanan bu aparat uygun bir tezgâhta denenmiş ve atkı telefinin durumu, kumaş ve tezgâh performansı incelenmiştir. Yapılan çalışmalar aynı zamanda dokuma işletmesinde bulunan hava jetli tezgâhlara da uyarlanmıştır. Yapılan araştırma ve analizler sonucunda elde edilen bilgiler ışığında hava jetli tezgâhlardaki telef miktarı da önemli ölçüde azaltılmıştır. Bu çalışma alanında ilk defa yapılan çalışmalardan biri olmuştur. Bu kapsamda geliştirilen standart ve aparatlar sektörde büyük bir avantaj sağlayacaktır.

Abstract:
The scope of this Project is to design and develop a new apparatus that ensures reducing the length of weft waste to minimum levels in comparison with the current situation on rapier weaving looms. The main purpose of this project is developing methods and procedures to reduce weft yarn waste, primarily on gripper weaving looms, and as a result,  to obtain important advantages in terms of operational cost and sustainability of natural resources. Reducing the dependence to human for setting adjustments of the weaving loom that affects the length of weft waste is one of the driving reasons of this project.  Warp and weft yarns are the main components of woven fabric and it is unavoidable that forming of some waste at some proportion during weaving preparation and production processes. The nature of weaving process and technologies used; generally warp waste is formed at weaving preparation, and weft waste is generally formed at weaving process. The problem of weft waste at weaving process came out after using shuttleless weaving loom alternatively to shuttle weaving looms. For each cycle of weaving machine, yarn reserve at defined length is put into fabric by yarn carrier system.  The length of this yarn must be longer than fabric width and the length difference between them is removed from weaving area as a weft waste according to required fabric side type. How much more the difference between them can be reduced, so the weft waste will be reduced at the same amount.  In the present day, weft waste is more chronicle problem for gripper weaving looms and the weft waste proportion increases up to 10% at rapier weaving looms working at 150-160 cm width. It is difficult to endure this losses especially for weft yarns used at high cost fabrics. As much high weft waste proportions can't be admitted in terms of economic way, environmental way and also for sustainability. Substantial resources should be prevented from reckless usage to reduce waste proportion. This is, already, the aim for YUNSA on the basis of cost to increase competitiveness and to obtain important incomes for sustainability of natural resources. Woolen weaving sector keeps its significance in Turkey and in the World and request for woolen fabric, because of its becoming nature and useful, permanently increases. While wool is valuable like this, throwing of some wool as a waste during production increases production cost of woolen fabric producer and as a result, reduces competitive power at woolen fabric sector against countries which production cost is low. The waste generated during weaving process composes high portion of total waste. In addition to waste cost which is generated during yarn preparation, there are lots processes applied to fiber to make it yarn, so this increases the value of yarn.  Project will be the one of the first committed to solve weft waste problem for shutleless weaving looms in industrial scope and will be performed within an industry supported academic work. Currently the weft waste length on gripper weaving looms exist at YUNSA at different features (brand, structure type, year, side type, machine width etc.) will be inspected and an optimization processes will be performed. Weft transfer system will be recorded by high fast camera and will be analyzed by image processing software. According to data and findings collected, a new apparatus will be designed to reduce weft waste and will work at the side of fabric. Produced samples will examine and applicability of them will be tested within draft. Project has a potential to ensure incomes and competitive edge at first for YUNSA and for all weaving sector. It will pioneer about the amount of weft wastes especially for gripper weaving looms. The proportion of weft waste could be reduced from %10 to %1-2 level. Important "know-how" will be obtained in this field and it will secured by patent and it will be possible to present it to all weaving sector.  As a result, the production waste of all natural or synthetic weft yarn used in weaving sector will be reduced, and will contribute for cleaner and sustainable production economy. It will also contribute of our country to competitive edge at textile sector, and also cost advantage with technological experience will be gained.