(Travel + Leisure) -- Nothing, but nothing, has the power to spoil New Orleans' appetite. The people of this city love to eat, and they eat it all -- from simply fried oysters and perfectly dressed po' boys to cutting-edge dishes served Cajun style. Here, a meal-by-meal primer of the Big Easy from a lucky visitor who came to eat and stayed to listen.

A classic meat biscuit at Mother's

Breakfast

When local business owners pulled together in move-on mode and reopened faster than seemed possible after Hurricane Katrina, natives dubbed Magazine Street, a six-mile ribbon of shops and restaurants, the "aisle of denial."

Only a few blocks away, on the edge of the Central Business District, Mother's reopened with Vice Admiral Thad Allen, head of the disaster relief effort, as its first customer. Regulars and tourists alike line up to order at the counter, cafeteria-style, but dishes such as grits and debris (roast-beef edges in gravy) or red-bean omelets with baked ham and biscuits are delivered to your Formica-topped table by old-time waitresses who may well call you darlin'.

Mellow Coffea CafÃ© (3218 Dauphine St.), in Bywater, a picturesque residential neighborhood a mile or so downriver from the French Quarter, doubles as a gallery space for local artists and has a genuine bohemian charm. Try their cafÃ© au lait (equal parts chicory coffee and steamed milk), sweet potato pancakes, or the savory "huevos crepe," filled with eggs and black beans and served with a side of Southern hospitality: a half-dozen bottles of hot sauce, including the tangy Louisiana favorite, Crystal. iReport.com: Send your photos of New Orleans

Don't leave the neighborhood without swinging by homey corner restaurant Elizabeth's for fried chicken livers with pepper jelly or lacquered praline bacon, baked in brown sugar with crumbled pecans and tasting -- if you can imagine it -- like pig candy. The hand-lettered sign, swaying when the breeze blows off the river, promises REAL FOOD DONE REAL GOOD. For weekend brunch, order "red neck eggs" (poached and served over fried green tomatoes with grits) and sweet rice fritters called calas, a nearly extinct regional specialty. Travel + Leisure: World's craziest party towns

Lunch

Founded in 1919 by Italian immigrants, Casamento's takes pride in its oyster loaf: a sandwich of fried oysters layered between two slices of house-made buttery white bread (rather than a French-style po' boy roll). But check the calendar, because the tiny Garden District oyster house is only open in the cooler "r" months. If the time is right, plunk those freshly shucked oversize warm-water oysters onto some saltines and wash them down with the coldest local Abita Golden beer in town.

During the summer "r-less" months, there's always La Petite Grocery (4238 Magazine St.), a cozy neighborhood bistro nearby. Chef Justin Devillier's top-notch half-pound burger comes with his house-made pickles and sweet Vidalia-onion marmalade.

There's only one way to end the debate over where to find the best po' boy in town: head for the Parkway Bakery & Tavern. Whether you go for the roast beef with gravy or golden fried shrimp, the basic anatomy of Parkway's perfect rendition is always the same: "dressed" (lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, and pickles) on distinctive New Orleans-style French bread (lightly crisped crust, interior as airy as cotton candy) from the celebrated Leidenheimer Bakery. Nothing better, nowhere else.

A grande dame of French Creole cooking since 1905, and still family-owned, the clubby Galatoire's has long earned its place in the social scene. If you sit in the mirrored ground-floor dining room (not the second floor) and order without studying the menu, you might -- just might -- pass for an upper-crust regular. Cheat sheet: Get the "grand goute," a seafood appetizer trio featuring the

What is Parkway Bakery and Tavern known for?

What is known for its po boy sandwiches?

Answer: best po' boy in town:

Answer: Parkway Bakery & Tavern.

Answer: Magazine Street,

Answer: A classic meat biscuit

Answer: Justin Devillier's

Answer: Mother's

Answer: dishes such as grits and debris (roast-beef edges in gravy) or red-bean omelets with baked ham and biscuits

Answer: on the edge of the Central Business District,

Summary:
Mother's serves hearty breakfasts on the edge of the Central Business District .
Parkway Bakery & Tavern is known for its po' boy sandwiches .
Chef John Besh celebrates regional ingredients in French style at August .


(Travel + Leisure) -- Portland, Oregon, doesn't lack for fashionable boutique hotels, but to the west, along the Pacific Ocean, the options have tended to be as primal as the shoreline. Recently, however, a group of properties has sprung up on the northern coast, aiming to seduce 21st-century travelers with designs steeped in post-World War II Modernism.

The Cannery Pier Hotel was built on the site of a fish-packing facility on the Columbia River.

Each stop on this easy three-night itinerary provides a stylish Oregon beach getaway -- along with postcard-worthy water views.

Day 1: Portland to Astoria

Follow the Columbia River Highway (U.S. 30) as it meanders along the waterway that led Lewis and Clark to the sea. (For more shore-hugging river views, cross the Oregon Way Bridge, just west of Rainier, and drive on Washington's Ocean Beach Highway -- but be sure to return to Route 30 by crossing back over at Cathlamet.)

Make your way to Astoria, the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies (founded in 1811), a revitalized former fishing town with Victorian architecture and a restored 1913 riverfront trolley.

Take in the town -- and the mouth of the Columbia River -- from the 125-foot Astoria Column, and for a dramatic close-up of the Astoria Bridge, which connects Oregon and Washington, check in to the Cannery Pier Hotel (doubles from $299).

Built on the site of a fish-packing facility on a pier that extends 600 feet into the river, the four-year-old hotel embraces a Pacific Northwest version of loft architecture, with exposed steel beams in the atrium-style lobby and hardwood floors in the 46 balconied rooms.

The best place to eat is just a short stroll down the pier at the Bridgewater Bistro (dinner for two $75; 503/ 325-6777). The restaurant offers exceptional views of the river and bridge, a tasting room for the Oregon Coast's Flying Dutchman Winery, and a small-plates menu featuring watermelon-and-feta salad and a savory cheesecake with Dungeness crab.

Day 2: Astoria to Arch Cape

The Oregon Coast Highway (U.S. 26) crosses Youngs Bay and snakes southward almost to Arch Cape, set in the lush green terrain of Oswald West State Park. It's a 30-mile trip that passes through the monied enclave of Gearhart, as well as Seaside, one of the first beach resorts in Oregon. Travel + Leisure: 45 best new hotels of 2009

Be sure to explore the Cannon Beach art colony, comprising 19 galleries and crafts studios; then hit the sand to behold Haystack Rock, a 235-foot-tall basalt formation that's the third-largest such ocean monolith in the world.

You might also want to scope out a spot for dinner in Cannon Beach -- locals love the French-Italian dishes such as pesto-and-prawn pasta at Newmans at 988 (dinner for two $110, 503/ 436-1151) -- or stock up on Oregon wine and Tillamook cheese before heading to Arch Cape, a tiny residential community with no restaurants.

It is here that Bruce Bessey transformed an old beach house into the Ocean Point Inn & Spa (doubles from $275). The three handsome suites, with mod furnishings, are perfect for curling up in when the rain lashes the wild surf.

In fair weather, guests mingle on the oceanfront deck to watch gray whales or gaze at the stars. In the morning, a hearty breakfast with fresh pastries provides fortification for beachcombing. Nestled between two state parks, the inn offers direct access to a nearly deserted Pacific stretch with sand dollar-filled tide pools.

Day 3: Arch Cape to Lincoln City

Lincoln City is a straight 79-mile shot down the 101, past open stretches of sand with more clumps of beach grass than sunbathers.

Along the way: Laneda Avenue, in Manzanita, is a charming shopping strip; the Picnic Basket (503/ 355-8500), in Rockaway Beach, has 97 flavors of salt-water taffy; Garibaldi Marina (

Where have fashionable hotels opened up?

What has opened along Oregon's northern coast?

Answer: site of a fish-packing facility on the Columbia River.

Answer: Portland, Oregon,

Answer: group of properties

Answer: on the Columbia River.

Summary:
A handful of fashionable hotels have opened along Oregon's northern coast .
The Cannery Pier Hotel in Astoria sits on a pier in the Columbia River .
Ocean Point Inn & Spa in Arch Cape is housed in a renovated beach house .


(Travel + Leisure) -- Portland, Oregon, doesn't lack for fashionable boutique hotels, but to the west, along the Pacific Ocean, the options have tended to be as primal as the shoreline. Recently, however, a group of properties has sprung up on the northern coast, aiming to seduce 21st-century travelers with designs steeped in post-World War II Modernism. The Cannery Pier Hotel was built on the site of a fish-packing facility on the Columbia River. Each stop on this easy three-night itinerary provides a stylish Oregon beach getaway -- along with postcard-worthy water views. Day 1: Portland to Astoria Follow the Columbia River Highway (U.S. 30) as it meanders along the waterway that led Lewis and Clark to the sea. (For more shore-hugging river views, cross the Oregon Way Bridge, just west of Rainier, and drive on Washington's Ocean Beach Highway -- but be sure to return to Route 30 by crossing back over at Cathlamet.) Make your way to Astoria, the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies (founded in 1811), a revitalized former fishing town with Victorian architecture and a restored 1913 riverfront trolley. Take in the town -- and the mouth of the Columbia River -- from the 125-foot Astoria Column, and for a dramatic close-up of the Astoria Bridge, which connects Oregon and Washington, check in to the Cannery Pier Hotel (doubles from $299). Built on the site of a fish-packing facility on a pier that extends 600 feet into the river, the four-year-old hotel embraces a Pacific Northwest version of loft architecture, with exposed steel beams in the atrium-style lobby and hardwood floors in the 46 balconied rooms. The best place to eat is just a short stroll down the pier at the Bridgewater Bistro (dinner for two $75; 503/ 325-6777). The restaurant offers exceptional views of the river and bridge, a tasting room for the Oregon Coast's Flying Dutchman Winery, and a small-plates menu featuring watermelon-and-feta salad and a savory cheesecake with Dungeness crab. Day 2: Astoria to Arch Cape The Oregon Coast Highway (U.S. 26) crosses Youngs Bay and snakes southward almost to Arch Cape, set in the lush green terrain of Oswald West State Park. It's a 30-mile trip that passes through the monied enclave of Gearhart, as well as Seaside, one of the first beach resorts in Oregon. Travel + Leisure: 45 best new hotels of 2009 Be sure to explore the Cannon Beach art colony, comprising 19 galleries and crafts studios; then hit the sand to behold Haystack Rock, a 235-foot-tall basalt formation that's the third-largest such ocean monolith in the world. You might also want to scope out a spot for dinner in Cannon Beach -- locals love the French-Italian dishes such as pesto-and-prawn pasta at Newmans at 988 (dinner for two $110, 503/ 436-1151) -- or stock up on Oregon wine and Tillamook cheese before heading to Arch Cape, a tiny residential community with no restaurants. It is here that Bruce Bessey transformed an old beach house into the Ocean Point Inn & Spa (doubles from $275). The three handsome suites, with mod furnishings, are perfect for curling up in when the rain lashes the wild surf. In fair weather, guests mingle on the oceanfront deck to watch gray whales or gaze at the stars. In the morning, a hearty breakfast with fresh pastries provides fortification for beachcombing. Nestled between two state parks, the inn offers direct access to a nearly deserted Pacific stretch with sand dollar-filled tide pools. Day 3: Arch Cape to Lincoln City Lincoln City is a straight 79-mile shot down the 101, past open stretches of sand with more clumps of beach grass than sunbathers. Along the way: Laneda Avenue, in Manzanita, is a charming shopping strip; the Picnic Basket (503/ 355-8500), in Rockaway Beach, has 97 flavors of salt-water taffy; Garibaldi Marina (

What are housed in a renovated beach house?

Ocean Point Inn & Spa in Arch Cape is housed in?

The Cannery Pier Hotel in Astoria sits on?

Answer: The three handsome suites, with mod furnishings, are perfect for curling up in when the rain lashes the wild surf.

Answer: Oswald West State Park.

Answer: along the Pacific Ocean,

Answer: on the site of a fish-packing facility on the Columbia River.

Answer: was built on the site of a fish-packing facility on the Columbia River.

Answer: tiny residential community

Answer: the site of a fish-packing facility

Summary:
A handful of fashionable hotels have opened along Oregon's northern coast .
The Cannery Pier Hotel in Astoria sits on a pier in the Columbia River .
Ocean Point Inn & Spa in Arch Cape is housed in a renovated beach house .


(Travel + Leisure) -- Stockholm has a reputation for being one of Europe's most expensive cities. T+L hits the streets of the fashionable capital and proves otherwise. Stockholm's Strommen River 9:00 a.m. I plot my day over a complimentary breakfast of homemade yogurt and knäckebröd (crispy bread) at Hotel Anno 1647 (3 Mariagränd; 46-8/442-1680), housed in a former tobacco and clothing factory in the hip island neighborhood of Södermalm. My room ($170), No. 21, is small and peaceful, with rustic pine floors, an antique crystal chandelier, and, thankfully, blackout drapes -- essential in a city that gets 18 hours of sunlight a day in the summer. 10:00 a.m. The hotel is around the corner from Götgatan, one of Stockholm's most seductive shopping strips. Though it feels a little early to start spending, I can't resist a jar of cloudberry honey ($6) from Iris Hantverk (37 Götgatan; 46-8/641-9190), a store that specializes in handmade items by visually impaired artisans. I crave almost everything I see in DesignTorget (31 Götgatan, 46-8/462-3520), which carries an eclectic range of accessories by Swedish designers, including hand-printed dish towels and colorful kids' toys. But I force myself to move along. 12:00 p.m. For lunch, I circle back to busy Slussen square -- Stockholm's answer to Grand Central. The main attraction here (besides a major subway stop) is the humble Nystekt Strömming (fried herring) wagon, encircled by picnic tables crowded with locals on their lunch breaks. I sidle up and order the signature dish ($6.25) topped with a dollop of crème fraîche. From my bench, I can see the silhouette of Gamla Stan, the old section of the city just across the bridge. 1:00 p.m. Down along the harbor, a freckled blond girl at a candy cart snips off a sample of her salt licorice (free), a delicious flavor called Häxvrål -- "scream of the witch," she translates. After a short stroll past the steamboats and Baroque mansions of Östermalm, I arrive at the Vasamuseet (14 Galärvarvsvägen; 46-8/5195-4800), a maritime museum built around a meticulously reconstructed boat that was shipwrecked in the 17th century. I buy a ticket ($15) and explore the gigantic ship, feeling a little like an extra on the set of "Pirates of the Caribbean." 3:30 p.m. Risking museum burnout, I head to the galleries ($12.50 admission) of the Moderna Museet (Skeppsholmen; 46-8/5195-5200), designed by the Spanish architect Rafael Moneo, to see its collection of 20th-century European and American art. Here, I discover the contemporary Swedish painter Karin Mamma Andersson, whose lush, layered paintings look like dreamscapes. I also find one of the city's best photo ops -- the panoramic view of the port from the glass-walled museum café. 5:00 p.m. I forgo a pricey taxi ride across the city in favor of an infinitely more charming and scenic walk toward Gamla Stan, which is touristy but irresistible once I'm weaving through a knot of cobblestoned streets and storybook 17th-century houses. My reward is a hot chocolate ($4.70) at Kaffekoppen (18-20 Stortorget; 46-8/203-170), a candlelit cellar with tea-stained walls and low vaulted ceilings. 7:00 p.m. While wandering the alleys of Gamla Stan, I stumble upon what may be the city's top bargain: a classical music concert ($11) at Storkyrkan, Stockholm's central cathedral (1 Trangsund, Gamla Stan; 46-8/723-3016). I take a seat in a wooden pew as a local pianist fills the space with the music of Chopin. Dusky evening light filters in through leaded glass windows and shimmers off the golden angels on the high brick ceiling. Divine. 9:30 p.m. The lingering sunlight has affected my eating schedule, but I'm finally hungry again. On the patio of Babylon (4 Björns Trädgårdsgränd; 46-8/640-8083

What neighborhood is Hotel Anno located in?

Answer: Södermalm.

Answer: hip island neighborhood of Södermalm.

Answer: in the hip island neighborhood of Södermalm.

Answer: picnic tables

Answer: 20th-century European and American art.

Summary:
Hotel Anno is located in the hip island neighborhood of Södermalm .
Locals crowd around the fried herring wagon in Slussen square .
Moderna Museet features a collection of 20th-century European and American art .


(Travel + Leisure) -- Warm beige tones, rich graphic accents, and futuristic chairs give Le Jules Verne a contemporary elegance, while dishes from superstar chef Alain Ducasse create a joie de vivre in diners' mouths. But the real showstopper at this restaurant -- set more than 400 feet above Paris in the Eiffel Tower -- is its panoramic view. From the tower's south pillar, diners look out on barges navigating the Seine and clusters of steely gray rooftops stretching for miles.

Sierra Mar, in Big Sur, California, is perched on a cliff overlooking the Pacific.

Restaurants have long been setting tables in locales with dramatic views, but often the food has paled in comparison. With the dramatic evolution of the global culinary scene, however, it's more than safe to look past the cocktail menu at many of the world's most beautifully situated restaurants. "They actually have a view and good food at the same time," says Tim Zagat, co-founder of the Zagat Survey restaurant guides. "It's a combination that was rare 10 or 20 years ago."

So where are the top places that harmonize amazing vistas with delectable victuals?

At Asiate, in New York's Mandarin Oriental Hotel, eyefuls of Midtown Manhattan's cloud-grazing buildings and the lush refuge of Central Park draw locals, tourists and special occasion diners, and executive chef Toni Robertson is up to the task of keeping the Asian-influenced cuisine at the same high level as the 35th-floor restaurant. "The challenge I have is I have to compete with the view, but as a chef, I always win," she says.

The Big Apple is hardly alone in providing winning skyscraper meals. At Felix, on the 28th floor of Hong Kong's Peninsula Hotel, guests soak in the city's striking setting from a slick dining room designed by Philippe Starck while feasting on dishes like Tasmanian salmon with parsnip gratin and seared duck breast with blood oranges and duck confit. Travel + Leisure: World's best hotels 2008

Of course, some of the world's most spectacular restaurant views are born, not made. At Ambrosia, on the Greek island of Santorini, the island's sea-filled volcanic crater provides a rocky perch for the terraced restaurant, from which diners gaze out on an inky blue sea. Santorini fava puree with grilled octopus and caramelized onions brings Grecian flavors to the Aegean seascape. Travel + Leisure: Amazing waterside restaurants

And up in British Columbia, diners at Eagle's Eye Restaurant -- part of Kicking Horse Resort -- survey snow-capped peaks as they tuck into Rocky Mountain cuisine infused with hints of chef Alain Soret's native France. Riding a gondola up to the restaurant 7,700 feet above sea level gives some guests the impression they're going to an alpine snack shack.

"Lots of people expect to find burgers and doughnuts up there," says Soret. They're surprised to be greeted with romantic fireside dining and entrees like roasted venison with almonds, pancetta and juniper jus served with fig-saffron risotto.

Whether you crave rough-edged mountains or deep ocean views, a glitzy skyscraper scene or a secluded retreat, these restaurants offer mesmerizing views with menus worthy of the scenery.

Planning a beach getaway? Don't miss Travel + Leisure's guide to Affordable Beach Resorts.

Eagle's Eye Restaurant is located where?

Answer: British Columbia,

Answer: snow-capped peaks

Answer: California,

Answer: sea-filled volcanic crater

Summary:
11 restaurants that marry heavenly views with multi-starred menus .
Diners at Eagle's Eye Restaurant in British Columbia survey snow-capped peaks .
At Ambrosia, Santorini's sea-filled volcanic crater provides a rocky perch .


(Travel + Leisure) -- What lies behind the walls of Wayne Newton's Vegas estate? Penguins and Elvis memorabilia, as it turns out. And come next spring, when Newton's Casa de Shenandoah opens as a museum, you'll be able to see this collection for yourself.

This glimpse into the life of "Mr. Las Vegas" is just the beginning of what's new in town. In fact, the city is having something of a renaissance, opening up new restaurants, clubs, and museums, returning Sin City to the ever-changing kaleidoscope it once was.

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Less than 10 years ago, Las Vegas was in the middle of a no-holds-barred building boom. But things happen, and Vegas seemed to be put on a giant "hold" for several years. The only major plan that was actually completed was the awe-inspiring CityCenter, which included the Mandarin Oriental and Aria hotels, as well as Crystals shopping center.

Now the excitement of CityCenter has spilled over into the entire city: new restaurants, museums, and clubs have either recently opened or are on target for 2012. So even if you visited Vegas recently, don't assume it's still the same. And don't head to Sin City without checking out this list of the newest and best things to do.

The Barrymore

The Royal Resort's hidden restaurant, The Barrymore, is the best place to ensconce yourself for an evening of modernized Rat Pack--inflected glamour in Las Vegas. The 1,400-square-foot space is pure, old-school cinematic Vegas, with handmade wallpaper, blue-tufted booths, and a ceiling lined with antique movie reels. You'll also find funky Rorschach portraits of Vegas stars, and modern twists on Vegas classics like lobster eggs Benedict and octopus salad. Inside the Royal Resort; 99 Convention Center Dr.; (800) 634-6118.

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The Mob Museum

Opens Valentine's Day, 2012. It's the actual former federal courthouse where such landmark hearings as the 1950 Kefauver hearings on organized crime were held. Here, Las Vegas's former "Happiest Mayor on Earth," Oscar Goodman, defended real-life wiseguys like Anthony "The Ant" Spilotro (playing himself defending a facsimile of The Ant in the movie Casino). The long-awaited (a decade, to be exact) $42 million museum was created by the same team that designed the International Spy Museum in Washington, D.C. Among its showpieces: part of the bullet-ridden wall from the St. Valentine's Day Massacre. 300 Stewart Ave.

35 Steaks + Martinis

You may think that the last thing Las Vegas needs is another steak house, but inhale one of the Tomahawk Steaks, a 35-day aged, 35-ounce prime steak of Flintstone's proportions, and you'll think otherwise. It's a traditional steak house with a rock 'n' roll design: custom chrome-plated chandeliers in the main room, textured silver walls, and chocolate padded columns. Don't miss the Applewood bacon creamed spinach or the 35 Gimlet (with cucumber essence and Hendrick's gin). The wine list, appropriately, is stocked with "Wines that Rock," including labels by Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin. In the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino; 4455 Paradise Rd.; (702) 693-5585.

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Nevada State Museum

Reopens October 28, 2011. From a cramped and outdated building, the Nevada State Museum flings open the doors to its $50 million museum -- and its showpiece, the 43-foot-long ichthyosaur -- in the Springs Preserve. For those who know the massive preserve and its interactive "edutainment" format, think more of the same. For those who don't, imagine a touch screen to tell the story of continental drift, a cave to explore, and a 3-D movie about the desert at night. Springs Preserve; 333 S. Valley View Blvd. at US 95; (702) 486-5205.

Wayne Newton's

who  will be opening the doors of his mansion to the public?

When will Wayne Newton be opening the doors of his mansion to the public?

which is he best place for an evening of modernized Rat Pack glamour?

What is the best place for an evening of modernized Rat Pack glamour?

Answer: Wayne Newton's

Answer: Valentine's Day, 2012.

Answer: Las Vegas's

Answer: Valentine's Day, 2012.

Answer: The Royal Resort's hidden restaurant,

Answer: next spring,

Answer: The Barrymore,

Answer: The Barrymore,

Summary:
The Barrymore is the best place for an evening of modernized Rat Pack glamour .
The Mob Museums opens Valentine's Day 2012 in a former courthouse where organized crime hearings were held .
Starting next year, Wayne Newton will be opening the doors of his mansion to the public .


(Travel + Leisure) -- When I first started traveling, I was delighted by refrigerator magnets, T-shirts, embroidered patches and snow globes -- all the usual gift-shop kitsch. At some point, however, it struck me as a shortcut, celebrating a destination's clichés rather than the place itself.

So I moved up to items that were unavailable on every other corner and, ideally, handmade. I felt good about supporting craftspeople, and the objects had more personal resonance. Though when I got them home, many of them turned into dust-catching clutter -- one-of-a-kind clutter, but still. Moreover, I questioned their authenticity. I make every effort to eat at restaurants frequented by locals. Why would I shop for souvenirs in stores where residents never tread?

Now, I hunt for what I call "unsouvenirs." The word souvenir is Middle French for "remembering," and unsouvenirs, despite the prefix, must also be able to trigger a memory. But they're different from souvenirs in that they capture the essence of a place not simply because they were purchased there, but because -- this is the important part -- locals actually use them.

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That's the best definition for cultural authenticity that I can come up with. While I prefer that my unsouvenirs originate in the destination ("made in China" is only appealing if you're in China), I don't mind if they come from a factory. Few of us can claim that we incorporate many handmade items into our day-to-day lives.

I just visited Rome for the first time -- ridiculous, I know -- and I was surprised by how rife with kitsch the historic center is. Rare is the block that doesn't have a store selling I © ROME T-SHIRTS. My customs form, in contrast, looked as if I had run errands on a Saturday afternoon.

I bought a plastic container designed to hold the unsliced part of an onion, premixed Campari and soda in Art Deco bottles, a package of assorted paper from an art-supply shop, Elmex toothpaste, and a lip balm called HerpeSun. They'll remind me of Rome every time I use them (though I haven't yet been brave enough to whip out the lip balm in public).

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Certain kinds of stores are more reliable for unsouvenirs. Supermarkets and pharmacies are always interesting. Cookware purveyors are also a consistently rich source: you might score Bialetti espresso pots from coffee-crazy Italy or elegant woven place mats from understated Sweden. At a Japanese hardware store you could come upon a miniature scythe-style weeder; or you might spot a cowbell and collar in northern Italy. (Part of the fun is repurposing: that bell could be a doorbell.)

Stationery shops, whether you're in Greece or Indonesia, tend to have schoolkids' notebooks, which make for quirky journals back home. Also worth a look are stores that sell hobby or restaurant supplies, sporting goods, garden equipment, bike gear....

"You have to get off the map," agrees the queen of unsouvenirs, Alisa Grifo, co-owner of Kiosk, a store in New York's SoHo that stocks workaday objects from around the world (usually one country at a time, displayed in four-to-six-month "exhibitions"), all acquired during Grifo's peripatetic travels.

Highlights from Germany included egg cups, a pencil sharpener and a doorstop; from Hong Kong, a mailbox, green twine and a calculator. Individually, the items are idiosyncratic and well designed; gathered together, they convey the spirit of a country, in both their utility and their aesthetics. (To see what I mean, visit kioskkiosk.com.)

I assumed that Grifo had the same wander-and-hope strategy that I do, but she and her husband and co-owner Marco Romeny actually do a ton of prep work. They research each destination, reading up on the history, culture, museums

What is only appealing if you're in China?

Where are interesting places to hunt for useful souvenirs?

Answer: China),

Answer: ("made in China"

Answer: Supermarkets and pharmacies

Summary:
"Made in China" is only appealing if you're in China, author says .
But handmade objects aren't always the best reminders of your trip .
Supermarkets and pharmacies are interesting places to hunt for useful souvenirs .


(Travel + Leisure) -- When you're dining at a revolving restaurant 250 feet above Cape Town, you expect the views to be fantastic. The real surprise is when the food appears -- and it's excellent.

What better way to savor a beautiful city than from this vantage point: a window seat at a revolving restaurant where the shifting views complement the gourmet courses. At Cape Town's Top of the Ritz, that means pairings of just-caught mussels with a view of iconic Table Mountain, spicy curry-butternut soup with the sandstone Twelve Apostle peaks, rack of lamb with beaches, and dessert with the sunset dipping below the Atlantic.

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Over the past 50 years, revolving restaurants have opened in more than 50 countries on six continents, from Colombia to Nepal to Canada. Along the way, the concept has gone from futuristic novelty to often-tacky tourist traps. But set aside that skepticism: we've pinpointed select revolving restaurants that are worth the price of admission.

The revolving restaurant trend took flight in 1961, when Seattle architect John Graham built one on top of a shopping center in Hawaii. A year later Graham was commissioned to design the Space Needle for the upcoming World's Fair in his hometown, and brought the idea with him. The resulting ultramodern tower not only became an enduring icon of this Northwest city, it brought 20,000 awed visitors to the Space Needle restaurant each day of the World's Fair, setting off a global craze for revolving restaurants.

Far too many successors get by on their looks alone, serving generic, overpriced dishes that typically invite the harsh review: "killer views, mediocre food." Munich's Restaurant 181 rises above that revolving restaurant reputation and has become one of the city's most coveted dining spots. It even earned a Michelin star for chef Otto Koch's concoctions, such as morel-crusted veal and langoustine tartare on a bed of caviar.

Koch introduced airplane-esque classes of dining, from the First (eight courses, including the caviar, for $209) to the Economy Sunset Menu, a three-course prix fixe at a down-to-earth $52. That's about as frugal as you get at these revolving restaurants, which each deliver a once-in-a-lifetime meal that can't be duplicated anywhere else. Give them a spin.

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Perlan: Reykjavik, Iceland

Built above a geothermal spring, Perlan serves a practical function -- storing the city's water tanks -- and the indulgent one of fine dining in its giant glass dome. Enter, and you're greeted by sweeping views of the deep-blue ocean and volcanic mountains surrounding Reykjavik. Get your fill of fresh local seafood such as sous vide smoked trout ($20) and, in autumn, a special wild game buffet ($73) of Icelandic delicacies like wild goose, reindeer, and puffin.

Heads Up: Strókur, a geyser right outside the restaurant, can provide quite the mealtime show, shooting white plumes of steam high into the air.

Top of the World: Las Vegas

Every glittering light of the Las Vegas Strip can be seen from this 844-foot-high restaurant—the crown of the Stratosphere Casino, Hotel & Tower. The extravagant four-course tasting menu mixes classics such as lobster bisque and filet mignon with more inventive dishes like roasted miso Mediterranean loup de mer with shoyu ginger glaze, followed by crème brûlée and cheesecake lollipops.

Heads Up: Don't be alarmed if you see a person propel past your window -- the new SkyJump thrill ride leaves from right above the restaurant.

Summit Restaurant: Sydney

Red carpets, pink-tinged lighting, and sleek lounge furniture create a sultry vibe within this dining room, which revolves past the Sydney Opera House, Harbour Bridge, and Olympic Park. Australian TV chef-lebrity Michael Moore put local reef snapper and pan-fried quail breasts on the two-course dinner menu ($89). For a more low-key meal, head to the Orbit Lounge

Where can  the highest revolving restaurant be found?

What is the name of the revolving restaurant in Las Vegas?

What is the name of the restaurant on top of the tower at the Stratosphere Casino in Las Vegas?

In the past 50 years, how many countries have opened a revolving restaurant?

How many countries have revolving restaurants opened in?

Answer: 250 feet above Cape Town,

Answer: Stratosphere Casino, Hotel & Tower.

Answer: Top of the World: Las Vegas

Answer: more than

Answer: 50

Summary:
In the past 50 years, revolving restaurants have opened in more than 50 countries .
Drehrestaurant Allalin, the highest revolving restaurant, is on top of a Swiss glacier .
Top of the World is the crown of the Stratosphere Casino, Hotel & Tower in Las Vegas .


(Travel + Leisure) -- With its tranquil beaches, the tiny northern island of Sylt is the country's best-kept summer secret. An ideal way to see the island -- especially in late summer when the heather is in full bloom -- is by bike. Where to stay Long and narrow, and spread over 36 square miles, Sylt has a verdant countryside peppered with its signature low-slung cottages. Many house tiny hotels, like the secluded Dorint Söl'ring Hof (1 Am Sandwall, Rantum; 49-4651/836-200; doubles from $550), a 15-room inn tucked into the dunes on the southern coast with its own hidden stretch of sugary sand. For those who want to be closer to the action, there's the Hotel Stadt Hamburg (2 Strandstrasse; 49-4651/8580; doubles from $253), in the charming village of Westerland. You'll have to walk five minutes to the beach, but this tidy hotel, built in 1869, is an ideal base for exploration. Where to eat The island's dining scene attracts a number of German celebrities (Claudia Schiffer, Boris Becker), and many frequent the stylish Sansibar (80 Hörnumer Str., Rantum; 49-4651/964-656; dinner for two $130). The restaurant's North Sea-meets-Asian dishes, like fresh mussels in a sweet curry sauce, are a potent draw. In Kampen, you'll find Greta's Rauchfang (5 Strönwai; 49-4651/ 42672; dinner for two $92) next to Louis Vuitton and Hermès. Here, socialites enjoy bottles of Kristall (opened dramatically with sabers), along with small plates of the sweet local shrimp. To get away from the fabulous set, head to Alter Gasthof (5 Alte Dorfstrasse, List; 49-4651/877-244; dinner for two $65) on the isle's northern tip. This 200-year-old inn dishes out classic regional food, including stellar house-smoked salmon and eel. What to do Sylt is known for its nude beaches. The most famous is Buhne 16 (133A Listlandstrasse, Kampen), where Germans of every stripe let it all hang out as they lounge in wicker basket chairs. For those who like things a bit more covered up, try Am Roten Kliff, just north of Kampen, which is also (no surprise) less crowded. An ideal way to see the island -- especially in late summer when the heather is in full bloom -- is by bike. Fahrrad am Bahnhof (49-4651/5803), in Westerland's main train station, has a terrific rental selection, and the staff will happily suggest a route along Sylt's 136 miles of well-laid-out paths. Getting there Sylt is reached by train from Berlin (5 hours) or Hamburg (3 1/2 hours). By car, take the autobahn to Niebüll from Berlin (290 miles) or Hamburg (120 miles). There is no road connecting Sylt to the mainland; vehicles board a train for the 30-minute trip to the island. For more, see bahn.de. Planning a beach getaway? Don't miss Travel + Leisure's guide to Affordable Beach Resorts.

What is five hours from Berlin by train?

What attracts German celebrities to the island?

What attracts a number of German celebrities?

Answer: Sylt

Answer: tranquil beaches,

Answer: dining scene

Answer: Sylt

Answer: The island's dining scene

Summary:
The island of Sylt is five hours from Berlin by train .
Sylt is known for its nude beaches .
The island's dining scene attracts a number of German celebrities .


(Travel + Leisure) -- You haven't experienced Christmas lights until you've seen nearly four miles of them artfully hung in patterns dictated by Tiffany's head designer in Copenhagen's famed historic amusement park, Tivoli Gardens -- and that's not counting the 1,800 strands dramatically draped on the lakeside willows. Salzburg, Austria's Christkindlmarkt is one of Europe's oldest markets. Copenhagen celebrates Jul (as in "yuletide") in high style, with its famed Christmas market the centerpiece. Stalls stocked with fine handmade crafts, including traditional figurines of clog-clad elves in pointy red caps, compete for space with vendors selling iced doughnuts slathered with black currant jam and hefty cups of gløgg, a steaming hot mulled red wine laden with raisins, almonds, cinnamon sticks and cloves -- all of which, for good measure, are steeped in aquavit or schnapps. Christmas in Europe is a time for elaborate pastries straight out of a medieval cookbook, for lyrical midnight masses in Gothic churches and for the upholding of quirky local traditions -- in many countries, Christmas just isn't complete without mischievous pixies, kindly witches (Rome), treacherous demons (Salzburg) or an 8,000-pound fruitcake (Dresden). However else Europeans celebrate the Yuletide season, Christmas still centers around an Advent market that, in most cases, has filled the square before the cathedral each December for hundreds upon hundreds of years. Many markets start on the Friday before Advent, which is four Sundays before Christmas Eve; most end on December 24, especially in Germanic countries, where Christmas Eve is set aside for trimming the tree at home. Others keep celebrating until Epiphany on January 6. Travel+Leisure.com: See Europe's best Christmas markets These markets are where the romance of the holiday comes alive in grand tradition -- smells of gingerbread and roasting sausages waft through the cold air, handmade ornaments adorn ancient fir trees, master glassblowers and other artisans ply their crafts in wooden stalls, shoppers bustle past Gothic church facades and half-timbered houses, pausing to sip their glühwein, heavily spiced and mulled "glow wine" -- the piping-hot beverage of choice at any self-respecting Teutonic Christmas market. This is what Christmas should be -- a holiday free of mall Muzak and the frantic need to lay your hands on the superstore's last Tickle Me Xbox. It's an old-world Christmas of heartfelt caroling and wooden toys, where every gift is crafted by hand and Santa hasn't outsourced his workshop to China. For a few precious frost-nipped weeks, these museum-piece cities of Olde World Europe flicker back to the Middle Ages -- not the ossified medieval throwbacks of soot-blackened cathedrals and tourist-bedeviled museums, but the living, breathing yesteryear of a bustling outdoor marketplace. A few practical notes: It's wise to book as far in advance as possible in these Christmas hotspots, especially for trips between December 15 and January 1 and definitely for December 24 and 25. That goes not only for your lodging but also for restaurants, many of which close on Christmas Eve and Day; those that are open usually offer a set-price feast and book up fast with locals. Planning a Caribbean getaway? Don't miss Travel + Leisure's new Ultimate Caribbean Hotel Guide - CLICK HERE

What stalls can typically be found at the advent market?

What has been held for hundreds of years?

Answer: wooden

Answer: four Sundays before Christmas Eve;

Answer: cups of gløgg, a steaming hot mulled red wine laden with raisins, almonds, cinnamon sticks and cloves

Answer: Christmas

Answer: Advent market

Summary:
Copenhagen's Tivoli Gardens glitters with lights during the market .
Advent markets have been held for hundreds of years .
Handmade crafts, local snacks and mulled wine are typical .


(Travel + Leisure) -- You're sitting in a hip Tokyo cafe, having a fish cake and sake. Your server has been especially attentive, so when the check arrives, you think nothing of pulling out some extra yen and leaving a healthy 20 percent tip. But suddenly things go horribly wrong: the server turns wide-eyed, becomes agitated, and walks away. What happened?!

You'll likely come across more people at a hotel that need to be tipped than anywhere else as you travel.

Tipping in Japan and many other Asian countries is simply not a way of life. In fact, it's usually regarded as a vulgar display of wealth and a disregard for the culture. The same can be true in Europe and Latin America ... though not always. And in the United States, of course, tipping is expected (and sometimes demanded). With expectations all over the map, it's not surprising that anxiety and confusion about whom to tip -- and how much -- are commonplace for travelers.

So we've done the legwork for you, talking with concierges, tourist boards, and other travelers to find out the real protocol on when (and when not) to reach into your wallet and how much of a tip you should give to waiters, sky caps, maids, doormen, and cabbies all over the world.

Of course, tipping is confusing enough for Americans traveling domestically. The expectation is to tip not only big but also often, from the kid handing you a Venti coffee at Starbucks to the multiple hotel hands that rush to open doors, carry bags, and offer an escort to the hotel room.

Go abroad and the situation changes. The legion of skycaps, cab drivers, bellboys, and waiters may perform the same services as their U.S. counterparts, but they often have radically different expectations of a tip. You can credit different customs, as well as a service industry with a different wage scale. In the United States, tips usually abet low wages. In other parts of the world, service employees are often paid a living wage. If you're taking a taxi in Chile or New Zealand, for example, the driver won't give you the evil eye if you don't tip -- it's not expected. Read Travel + Leisure's guide to tipping around the world

At a hotel, you'll encounter more people who potentially need to be tipped than anywhere else during your travels. In fact, there are so many people it can become confusing. If a doorman opens the door of your cab, another takes your bag, and a third delivers it to your room, who gets the tip? It should be the last person in the chain -- the one who actually brings the bags to your room. And at checkout, only tip the one who loads your bags onto a cart and takes them out of the room.

Restaurants can be tricky, too: keep an eye out for the service charge. In many European countries, this charge averages 10 percent, but it's usually included in the price of a meal. If it is, then do as the European do, and leave a few extra coins or round up the bill -- in cash, even if you've paid for the meal with a credit card. And if you're heading to Fiji, Malaysia, or South Korea, be aware that no tip is required in restaurants.

Here are some other scenarios:

Spa Therapists: Tipping 15 or 20 percent is common practice in the United States but rare at any spa abroad, where a service charge is typically added to the cost of the treatment.

Concierges: Situational. If a concierge gets you theater or train tickets, or has been especially helpful during the course of your stay, then a $10 or $20 tip (in local currency) is in order.

Guides: Booking a ski guide to take you off-piste in Switzerland, a golf pro in Scotland, or a fishing guide in Ireland? All should be compensated in the 10 to 15 percent range, as they would be in the

What location will you potentially need to tip more people at than anywhere else?

More people at a hotel will potentially need to be what?

Tipping conventions overseas can be vastly different from those where else?

Tipping conventions overseas can be vastly different from those located where?

Answer: hotel

Answer: tipped

Answer: United States,

Answer: Japan and many other Asian countries

Answer: expectations of a tip.

Summary:
Tipping conventions overseas can be vastly different from those in the United States .
More people at a hotel will potentially need to be tipped than anywhere else .
Get small bills or coins from your hotel's front desk to make tipping easier .


(Tribune Media Services) -- A century and a half ago, Athens was a humble, forgotten city of about 8,000 people. Today, one out of every three Greeks packs into this city of about 4 million. To avoid the Parthenon crowds, go in the early evening when the marble turns golden as the sun sets. Athens has been famous for its sprawl, noise and pollution. My advice has long been to see the big sights, then get out. But visiting it recently to research a new guidebook, I've seen a dramatic change. The city has made a concerted effort to curb pollution, clean up and pedestrianize the streets, spiff up the museums, build a new airport and invest in one of Europe's better public-transit systems. Even with its new look, the Greek capital still has its "big three" sights: the stunning Acropolis, the Ancient Agora just below and the remarkable National Archaeological Museum. But coming in June is the opening of a fourth big sight -- one that will stoke a battle over Greece losing her marbles more than 200 years ago (more on that later). To many, the most important ancient site in the Western world is the Acropolis, rising gleaming like a beacon above the gray concrete drudgery of modern Athens. This is where the Greeks built the mighty Parthenon -- the most famous temple on the planet, and an enduring symbol of ancient Athens' glorious Golden Age from nearly 2,500 years ago. The major monuments of the Acropolis survive in remarkably good condition. While the Persians, Ottomans, and British were cruel to the site in the past, the greatest dangers it faces now are acid rain and pollution. Ongoing restoration means that you might see some scaffolding -- but even that can't take away from its greatness. I like to come late in the day, as the sun goes down, when the white Parthenon stone gleams a creamy golden brown. While the Acropolis was the city's ceremonial showpiece, it was the Ancient Agora that was the real heart of classical Athens. For some 800 years, it was the hub of all commercial, political, and social life and home to many of the city's religious rites. Little survives in the Agora from the classical period. Other than one very well-preserved temple and a rebuilt portico, it's a field of humble ruins nestled in the shadow of the Acropolis. But that makes it a quiet, uncrowded spot to wander and get a feel for the ancients. Romantics can't help but get goose bumps as they kick around the same pebbles that once stuck in Socrates' sandals, with the floodlit Parthenon forever floating ethereally overhead. North of the city center is the world's best collection of ancient Greek art, the National Archaeological Museum. It takes you from 7000 B.C. to A.D. 500 on a beautifully displayed and well-described sweep through Greek history, from prehistoric and Mycenaean artifacts through the evolution of classical Greek statuary. This museum now has a worthy competitor -- the New Acropolis Museum, slated to open in June. It's a world-class space, custom-built to showcase the Parthenon sculptures, along with truckloads of other artifacts, all complemented by modern exhibits. And the state-of-the-art building itself is worth a look, as the boldest symbol yet of the post-Olympics vision for Athens. The new museum also serves as a sort of 21st-century Trojan horse, intended to lure the famous Elgin Marbles (the Parthenon sculptures) away from London's British Museum. In the early 19th century, the British ambassador to the Ottomans, Lord Elgin, got permission to strip marble panels from the Parthenon and take them to England. For years, the Greeks have asked for the marbles back, and for years, the Brits have responded with claims that Greece can't give them a suitable home. And yet, now that this state-of-the-art facility is ready and waiting, it still seems unlikely that the marbles will be returned anytime soon. Britain is reluctant to give in, for fear of setting a

Answer: New Acropolis Museum,

Summary:
Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows .
His TV series, "Rick Steves' Europe," airs on PBS stations .
Steves' company, Europe Through the Back Door, conducts European tours .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Alexandra Seldin prepays for a rental car through Alamo's Web site. But when her flight is canceled, and she arrives a day late, the company charges her three times more than it originally said it would. Is it allowed to do that? And is there any hope for a refund? A customer's late arrival cost her an additional $1,116 for her car rental. Q: My car rental company has more than tripled the rate it charged me, and I don't know what to do. I had prepaid $390 for the car through Alamo's Web site. When my flight was canceled, I called Alamo to tell it I could not get the car until the next day. I was told that my reservation would be held for 24 hours. I picked up the car the next day and returned it on time. When I dropped off the rental, a representative said the computer system was down. But when I got my bill the next month, there was an additional $1,116 charge because of the late pick up. I believe this additional charge to be unfair and am requesting a refund. I believe Alamo should honor its promise of the prepaid amount as well as the representation that my reservation would be held for 24 hours. Can you help? -- Alexandra Seldin, San Diego, California A: So Alamo is charging you another $1,116 even though you rented one of its cars for one day less. Where's the logic in that? The answer: It's airline logic. Air carriers have figured out a way to quadruple the price of a ticket depending on the time you bought it. So a "walk-up" fare purchased at the last minute can be hundreds, and even thousands, of dollars more expensive than an advance-purchase fare. But you're getting the same seat. You prepaid for your rental weeks in advance -- kind of like an advance-purchase ticket. But when you didn't show up as expected, the system reset your rate, charging you the more expensive "walk-up" rate. The computer problems should have been a showstopper. When a representative says the system is down, you need to get a receipt, even if it's handwritten. That way, if the company tries to double-dip, you can dispute the charge using the invoice as evidence that your bill was paid. Even if you have assurances that you won't be billed again, it's important to monitor your credit card. A car rental company isn't going to send you an e-mail letting you know that you're being charged more. It's just going to quietly take it off your credit card. As soon as you see a questionable charge on your card, mention it to the company or dispute it with your credit card company. I think you would have won a credit card dispute, by the way. You would have needed to show the prepaid voucher as proof that you had already paid for the rental, and the credit card company should have sided with you. I suggested you write a brief, polite e-mail to Alamo, asking it to reverse the charges. The response? A snippy note that said, "Any changes to the basis of the reservation makes the rate subject to change," and adding, "We are disappointed that this policy is a source of dissatisfaction for you." Alamo denied your request. Like you, I was unhappy with the denials by phone and e-mail. So I contacted Alamo for you. It promptly refunded the $1,116 it should have never charged you in the first place. Christopher Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine. E-mail him at celliott@ngs.org.

What caused the customer to be a day late for picking up the car rental?

How much was she charged for the late pick-up?

Who was persuaded to reverse the charges?

Answer: Alamo

Answer: flight is canceled,

Answer: $1,116

Answer: additional $1,116

Answer: refunded the $1,116

Answer: Alamo

Answer: flight

Summary:
A customer's flight was canceled, and she arrived a day late for her car rental .
She called to let Alamo know and it said her reservation would be held .
She was charged an additional $1,116 for the rental because of the late pick up .
After declining a refund, Alamo was persuaded to reverse the charges .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Fantastique France continues to make its heritage and culture easier for travelers to appreciate. Being up-to-date on changes for 2009 will help your visit go smoothly. The Eiffel Tower is planning to offer online reservations, allowing visitors to book an entry time and avoid a long wait. Due to a smoking ban, you'll enjoy fresh air in bars, cafes and restaurants throughout France. The smokers have scurried outdoors to sidewalk tables; many of those seats now come with space heaters in winter. If you're traveling in France by railpass, it's increasingly important to book trips on the TGV bullet trains in advance, as there's a strict limit on the number of seats allowed for railpass holders. And with high gas prices -- and the recognition among Europeans that rail travel is about as green as you can go -- trains are more crowded than ever. In Paris, the transit system has introduced a chip-card called the Passe Navigo Decouverte, but for most tourists, the "carnets" (packs of 10 individual tickets) are still the better deal. The new Passe costs about $27, runs strictly from Monday through Sunday, and requires a photo, which means it's not shareable. In contrast, a 10-ticket pack costs about $14, is shareable, and has no expiration date. Paris' Notre-Dame Cathedral has a new modest-dress rule. The "no shorts" code is not strictly enforced, but inside you're expected to be quiet and respectful. A new online reservation system for the Eiffel Tower may debut in 2009, allowing Tour-Eiffel-ists to book a half-hour time slot and avoid the notorious lines. At the Army Museum nearby, the section on 19th-century French military history ("Revolution to Napoleon III") should reopen in the spring. The museum also has a new Charles de Gaulle wing, offering a 25-minute film, plus a high-tech display of photos tracing the life of France's towering 20th-century figure. Paris' market streets delight many visitors. While rue Cler (near the Eiffel Tower) has become quite touristy, rue des Martyrs (at the foot of Montmartre) is edgier and a great way to connect with workaday Paris. If you'd like to "do the Time Warp again" while ducking airborne "French" toast, you can enjoy the cult movie "Rocky Horror Picture Show" with a Parisian crowd Friday and Saturday nights in the Latin Quarter (www.rocky.fr). Travel Snapshots: Paris The Palace of Versailles is undergoing extensive renovation so expect some closures. Repair projects may close its Opera House through June; the Petit Trianon may be closed or only partially open. Busy sightseers can save both time and money by visiting Versailles with the Paris Museum Pass. The pass covers most major sights in and around Paris, pays for itself in about three entries, and allows you to walk right by the long ticket-buying lines at places like the Louvre, the Orsay Museum, the Sainte-Chapelle chapel, and Versailles (www.parismuseumpass.com). However, everyone needs to wait through any bag-check security line. The charming city of Reims, rebuilt after World War I when Art Deco was the prevailing style, is now served by a speedy TGV train, making it an easy day trip from Paris. Reims is known for its champagne tours (Mumm, Taittinger and Martel), giant cathedral (with Chagall stained glass), and fascinating Museum of the Surrender (General Eisenhower's final World War II headquarters with stirring artifacts and the document of surrender that was signed by German generals right there). This year is the 65th anniversary of the D-Day landings in Normandy; prepare for big crowds -- especially from June 1 to 10. Also in Normandy, a museum has opened at Dead Man's Corner, a critical crossroads between Omaha and Utah beaches that saw five torrid days of fighting in 1944. This museum, south of Ste. Mere-Eglise, is a hit with enthusiasts as every display case shows incredible attention to detail. It also

Answer: France

Summary:
Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows .
His TV series, "Rick Steves' Europe," airs on PBS stations .
Steves' company, Europe Through the Back Door, conducts European tours .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Frank Santa Maria buys two tickets to Italy on Expedia. But when an agent misspells his wife's name, he must embark on an odyssey to ensure she'll be allowed to use her tickets. Will he be successful? Q: I recently bought tickets to Italy by calling Expedia. I spelled my wife's first name to the agent. That afternoon we left town for a trip. When we returned the tickets were at the front door and a confirmation e-mail was waiting. My wife's first name was spelled Crista instead of Christa. I immediately called Expedia, and was told I should have contacted them the day the e-mail was sent to me and that there would be a $150 re-ticketing fee. After several more calls and being put on "hold" for more than half an hour, a supervisor told me that there was nothing they could do. They couldn't even change the name on the ticket. I contacted the airline directly and they told me they would make a note on my wife's passenger record. My wife's tickets are still wrong and I'm afraid we may have a problem with our connecting airline or with customs. What can I do? -- Frank Santa Maria, New Braunfels, Texas A: Expedia should have spelled your wife's name correctly. When it was clear that the company had made an error, it should have done everything in its power to fix it instead of giving you the runaround and forcing you to deal directly with your airline. Then again, it should have never come to this. First, why are you phoning an online travel agency to buy tickets? It may be more convenient, but online agencies are built to handle your purchases online. It's more efficient and reduces the chance of an error being introduced -- like misspelling a passenger's name. Second, you should always check your verification e-mail immediately. Expedia could have made a change to your ticket if you had caught the mistake earlier. It's essential that you review your itinerary as soon as possible. Believe me, I know. I just made this mistake and had to spend an extra day at my destination because I put the wrong date in my reservation. (See? It can happen to anyone.) I've dealt with too many wrong-name cases to count, and here are a few things I've learned. Passengers aren't turned away at the gate because of a typographical error on their tickets. Reservations systems have limitations that sometimes truncate last names or render non-English names in funny characters. Last names and first names are frequently flip-flopped. Ticket agents, gate agents and security screeners know that, and will let you through. I haven't heard of anyone being denied boarding because of a one-character difference in a name. I'm reasonably sure your wife would have been allowed to travel using her ticket, even if this had happened after the May 15 implementation of the first phase of the Transportation Security Administration's "Secure Flight" initiative, which requires that you provide your full name as it appears on your government-issued identification. Incidentally, the "notation" in her reservation would have almost certainly been visible to any connecting airline. And a customs agent wouldn't even pay attention to your ticket under normal circumstances. It's your customs form and passport that matter to them. Next time you buy tickets by phone -- and I hope there's no next time -- do yourself a big favor: When you offer your name to the agent, ask to have it spelled back. That way, you'll catch any errors before the transaction goes through. Once you have a reservation, it becomes much more difficult (or even impossible) to make a change. It shouldn't be that way. In an ideal world, you'd be able to change a name on a ticket. Airlines say they can't allow name changes for "security reasons" but I'm inclined to believe it has more to do with the fact that they

Where did the passenger purchase airline tickets from?

What travel company issued a corrected ticket?

What was misspelled when received the tickets?

Answer: Expedia.

Answer: two tickets to Italy

Answer: Expedia.

Answer: his wife's name,

Summary:
Passenger purchased airline tickets from Expedia by phone .
When he received the tickets, his wife's name was misspelled .
Troubleshooter urged him to purchase online and to verify information .
Expedia issued a corrected ticket when contacted by the Troubleshooter .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Gabriel Medina can't reach his hotel in New Orleans because there's a police barricade in front of it. A manager promises to "help" him cancel the reservation, but three days later, his credit card is charged $113. Now his credit card has sided with the hotel. Is there anything else he can do? Q: I don't know where else to turn. I recently booked a room at the Holiday Inn French Quarter-Chateau Lemoyne in New Orleans through its central reservations phone number. When I arrived, the New Orleans Police Department had the entire block closed off. I immediately called the hotel and told a manager I couldn't access the hotel. He said he did not know when the blockade would be lifted and couldn't help get my car or luggage to the hotel. He couldn't cancel my reservation because I had made it through Holiday Inn's central reservations number. After several more attempts to reach the hotel, he agreed to help me cancel my reservation. I stayed at another hotel that night. Three days later, a $113 charge appeared on my credit card from the Holiday Inn. I disputed the charge, but they told me I couldn't get a refund because I could not prove that they refused me the room. When I called guest relations they said they needed a cancellation number before they would consider a refund. Otherwise the hotel itself would need to reverse the charge. When I call the hotel, I get only voicemail. Can you help? -- Gabriel Medina, Elk Grove, California A: If a hotel representative says your reservation is canceled, you shouldn't be charged for your stay. But a review of your correspondence raises a few red flags. First, a manager told you that it was impossible for him to cancel a reservation made through Holiday Inn's 800-number. Then, a few minutes later, the same manager agrees to "help" you cancel the reservation. I would assume that "helping" you means your reservation is officially canceled, but what if he just looked into it and then decided it couldn't be done, and left your original reservation intact? Since Holiday Inn didn't have a cancellation number, it probably means there was no cancellation. Here's what you did right: You noted the name of the manager with whom you spoke. You followed up with Holiday Inn, and you were persistent but polite. Here's what you overlooked: You should have called the central reservations number and asked for a cancellation number. If they refused to give you a number, you should have given a representative the name of the manager you spoke with. I would have followed up with the manager and not let Holiday Inn off the hook until you had a number. But getting a number isn't enough. Instead of continuing to call Holiday Inn, I would have sent it a short, cordial email asking for a verification of your cancellation in writing. If you send an email through a hotel company's Web site (Holiday Inn) you'll typically receive a meaningful answer in a matter of days, if not hours. With that information, your credit card dispute would have probably been a slam-dunk. Before getting to the resolution on your case, let me add one more thing. As far as I can tell, Holiday Inn was under no obligation to refund your money. You couldn't reach the hotel because of a police barricade, which the property couldn't control. But since a manager assured you that he would help you make a cancellation, I think it's reasonable to expect a refund. I contacted Holiday Inn on your behalf. It reviewed your case and apologized for the way in which your refund was handled. "Clearly the inability to access the hotel was beyond your control, and in as such, you should be relieved of the $113 charge you have received," a representative wrote to you in a letter. You're getting your $113 back. Christopher Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine

What was stopping the guest getting to his room?

Answer: $113

Answer: $113.

Answer: barricade

Answer: $113

Answer: the New Orleans Police Department had the entire block closed off.

Answer: "help" him cancel the reservation,

Answer: three days later,

Summary:
Guest finds his hotel blocked by police barricade and calls the hotel manager .
The manager promises to help him cancel the reservation, and he stays elsewhere .
Days later, he finds his credit card charged for unused, blocked hotel room .
Holiday Inn hotel apologizes and returns the man's $113 .


(Tribune Media Services) -- I'm lost! For American Girl book fans, the "Happy New Year, Julie" story is an ideal gift for holiday road trips. Hopelessly, completely lost on a winding, backcountry road somewhere in Westchester County, N.Y. Did I mention it was night and pitch-black? "How could you do this?" asks my aggravated 16-year-old daughter, Mel. I'm not even sure. One minute we're on the highway and a couple of wrong turns later, here we are. None of the maps in the car showed the road we were on. Finally, we spot some open shops and a kind saleswoman in the Gap gave me directions. Guess what I want somebody to give me this holiday? A portable GPS! (Are you listening, elves?) L.L. Bean (www.llbean.com) has some that are under $100, TomTom (www.tomtom.com), has some for under $250. A GPS would be a welcome gift for any traveling family. It's no fun getting lost, whether close to home or on vacation in an unfamiliar city or country. Of course, my favorite gift of all would be a trip. Give those you love most the gift of an adventure together someplace new, or someplace that holds special memories, whether you are celebrating a special anniversary, birthday or simply a good year. Outfitters, cruise lines and resorts will help you arrange a custom itinerary -- and give you a good "reunion" deal too. Just make sure you get everyone on board with the idea before you fork over your credit card for those nonrefundable deposits. Give the adults different guidebooks about the region and if you are planning a trip to foreign shores, give each of the kids some Euros, Pesos, etc., to spend when they get there. They'll have fun and maybe hone a few math skills figuring out how much they've really got to spend. Maybe you want to encourage your kids' or grandkids' interest in exploring the world beyond their community. Buy them a subscription to National Geographic Kids (www.shopng.org) and for preschoolers, National Geographic Little Kids (subscriptions are just $15 a year.) Those planning road trips or plane trips with their children will thank you every time they travel, if you slip a portable DVD player under the tree or next to the Hanukkah Menorah. Disney (www.disneyshopping.com) has a new one that's compact and has twin 7-inch LCD screens and two sets of headphones. It sells for $179.99. Of course, you'll need a couple of new DVDs to watch. How about encouraging the young chefs in the gang with Pixar's "Ratatouille," or spark your little pirate's sense of adventure with "Pirates of the Caribbean: At World's End." If you're planning a holiday trip, bring along your favorite holiday movie. Books on tape are also a great bet for families who prefer the road to the skies. The story can become a shared experience because everyone, including the driver, can listen at the same time, assuming you can get the older kids to turn off their iPods. There are plenty of holiday stories, like "A Christmas Carol" performed by Jim Dale, who read the Harry Potter books so well, John Grisham's "Skipping Christmas"(www.randomhouse.com/audio) read by Dennis Boutsikaris or Fannie Flagg reading her book "A Redbird Christmas," which I just listened to on a long drive in Colorado. Also check out Brilliance Audio (www.brillianceaudio.com) for other titles like Adam Canfield's "Watch Your Back" about the adventures -- and misadventures of an intrepid middle-school reporter. Good old-fashioned books, of course, are great gifts too, especially if you can find one that relates to an experience you've shared on vacation or to a place you plan to visit. Ask your local children's librarian for suggestions. Maybe you've taken the kids to Cirque de Soleil or the Big Apple Circus, if so check out "The Painted Circus" (www.kidscanpress.com), which features beautiful illustrations that play tricks on

What is a useful gift for travelling families?

What does the subscription expose kids to?

Answer: portable GPS!

Answer: exploring the world beyond their community.

Summary:
A portable GPS is a useful gift for traveling families .
A subscription to National Geographic Kids exposes kids to the world .
No one, including kids, should travel without a lightweight, rolling duffel .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Kristin Budden's hotel promises her a refund for her nonrefundable hotel room after a hurricane strikes. But months later, there's no sign of the money and the hotel has gone into radio silence. Should she kiss the money goodbye? A guest's hotel promised her a refund, but she hasn't received anything. Q: I think that you may be my only hope! My father and I were supposed to meet in San Antonio before a conference. Lucky for us, the weekend that we were to be in San Antonio was the same weekend Hurricane Ike plowed through Texas. After experiencing Gustav just two weeks prior in Baton Rouge, I was not very keen on going for round two. My flight was canceled, anyway. We had made reservations at the Holiday Inn on the Riverwalk for the weekend. The rate was pre-paid and nonrefundable, which at the time of booking was fine. However, when we saw where the hurricane was headed, we called to cancel our reservations independently. After some discussion about the storm, the hotel told us both independently that, due to the extreme circumstances, we would receive refunds. I have an e-mail from the hotel regarding my "refund." Despite numerous e-mails to the hotel over many months, we've received nothing. Any assistance that you can offer me would be greatly appreciated. -- Kristin Budden, Baton Rouge, Louisiana A: I think Holiday Inn owes you a refund. Not because of the hurricane, or because it was the right thing to do (although both are true) but because a hotel representative promised one in writing. If you had disputed the hotel charge on your credit card -- which would have been one of your options -- then the e-mail from your hotel is almost like money in the bank. During a dispute, a hotel may counter that by citing its nonrefundability policy, but from your credit card's perspective, a written statement from the property that it agrees to override its rule is compelling evidence in your favor. Many resorts offer hurricane guarantees that give guests a no-questions-asked refund when a storm is on the way. Holiday Inn wasn't one of those hotels as far as I can tell, but the commonly accepted practice in the travel industry is to not hold a customer accountable for a trip that can't be taken because of circumstances beyond his or her control. (Remember, we let travel companies off the hook when they can't operate a plane because of bad weather or a hotel shuts down during a flood -- it's only fair that they should do the same thing for us.) It looks as if you limited your correspondence to the hotel. In a situation like this, it's useful to begin with a brief, polite e-mail to the corporate guest-relations section on its Web site. Many hotels pass these complaints along to the hotel and may fine it if the grievances aren't resolved quickly. However, dealing with the hotel directly puts it under no such pressure and it may feel as if it can ignore your repeated requests. Next time you reserve a room during hurricane season, consider one that's refundable. And if not, then at least consider taking out a travel insurance policy that would cover you if a hurricane hit your hotel. I contacted Holiday Inn on your behalf and it promised you a full refund. Christopher Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine. E-mail him at celliott@ngs.org.

For how long did the guest try to get her money back?

For how long the guest was trying to get her money back?

Answer: months

Answer: a refund,

Answer: "refund."

Answer: months

Summary:
A Holiday Inn agreed to give a guest a refund due to an approaching hurricane .
The hotel said via email it would make an exception to its nonrefundable rate .
The guest tried for months to get her money back .
The Troubleshooter contacted the hotel and it promised to deliver the refund .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Look out for cancellation penalties. Beware of energy surcharges. And watch for facilities fees. Hertz lost $73 million in the fourth quarter of 2008. No, not on your airline ticket. Not on your hotel folio. You may find these new extras on your next car rental bill. Beleaguered auto rental firms are quietly adding new surcharges designed to lift revenues in a recessionary economy. To get an idea of how absurd it's becoming meet Jim Swofford. He found a mysterious $5 fee on his Hertz bill recently, which a representative described as a cancellation fee. Car rental companies typically don't charge their customers for cancellations, so Swofford, who frequently rents from Hertz, said he didn't want another car he'd reserved for later. "That'll be $25," the agent told him. "So I jokingly said I would not cancel but just be a no-show," he remembers. "She said that would result in a $50 fee." Or talk to Eric Hegwer, a photographer from Austin, Texas, who spotted a $1 "energy surcharge" on his Hertz car rental bill recently. "My previous rentals didn't have one," he says. I asked Hertz about the two new surcharges. Company spokeswoman Paula Rivera told me the cancellation fee, which was added in December, applied only to prepaid reservations and is meant to "reimburse Hertz for the paperwork and billing involved with a prepaid reservation." The fee also covers part of the company's cost of holding vehicles for prepaid reservations. The energy surcharge, which was added in October, bills all rentals in most states an additional $1 a day "to offset the increasing costs of utilities, bus fuel, oil and grease," she said. It's easy to see why car rental companies are taking these steps. The industry is hemorrhaging money faster than oil leaking from a cracked gasket. Hertz lost $73 million in the fourth quarter, and competitor Avis lost $121 million in the same period. They fared much better than Advantage Rent A Car, which filed for bankruptcy protection in December and whose assets were sold to Hertz for a reported $33 million. Every penny counts for the car rental companies. Then again, in this dreadful economy, who isn't counting every cent? Shocking anecdotes aside, there's a pattern here, and you don't have to be an investigative reporter or a conspiracy theory-obsessed columnist to see it. Just read the annual reports issued by one of the publicly traded car rental companies. (Look for the form 10-K and then scroll down to "Legal Proceedings" for an enlightening read.) They're littered with lawsuits over fees, surcharges and add-ons that motorists say broadsided them when they rented a car. A representative of the American Car Rental Association, a trade group for the car rental business, says these fees are essential to the industry's survival. But that doesn't give companies a license to surprise their customers. "The car rental company has an obligation to clearly and concisely explain all fees and charges at the time of rental, " says Robert Barton, the association's president and chief operating officer for U-Save Car & Truck Rental. How to stay ahead of these extras? Knowing is half the battle. Here are five of the newer charges that could sideswipe you on your next trip. A fee for something you've already paid for This is one of the more creative new ways of separating you from your money: charging you twice for the same thing. "Three times now, with three different companies, they have tried to charge me for gas when I've returned the car with a full tank and claimed it was an honest mistake," says Sid Savara, a software engineer in Oahu, Hawaii. "It leads me to suspect they are just tacking the fee on and most people aren't noticing or complaining about it." Boston-based author John DiPietro brought his own E-ZPass toll

How much did Hertz lose because of the economy?

What are car rental firms sneakily adding?

Answer: cancellation fee,

Answer: $73 million

Answer: energy

Answer: $73 million

Answer: new surcharges

Summary:
Beleaguered car rental firms are quietly adding "absurd" new surcharges .
Charges include: "Cancellation fee," "energy surcharge," "tire fee," "privilege fee"
Economy resulted in Hertz losing $73 million in Q4; Avis lost $121 million .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Three hundred and forty. At the Bandelier National Monument visitors can climb into ancient cliff dwellings used by Native Americans. That's how many steps and ladder rungs we climb to Bandelier National Monument (http://www.nps.gov/band/), to crowd into its ancient (dating back to before 1300) cliff dwellings about 50 miles northwest of Santa Fe, New Mexico. Even the kids are impressed that Ancestral Pueblo families lived here before Columbus arrived, even before the Pilgrims stepped foot on Plymouth Rock. We look at the crumbling adobe and try to imagine apartment-type dwellings that stretched more than three stories: We crouch inside the ceremonial Kivas where the ancient people gathered to teach the children, weave, congregate and discuss the affairs of the day. These unique sites -- Bandelier certainly isn't the only one -- and spectacular desert landscape make New Mexico a terrific family destination winter or summer, and one that will win kudos from all ages. Where else can you ski one day -- in Taos or outside of Santa Fe, gallery hop or take a cooking lesson the next, shop or tour museums till you drop and gain a new perspective on Native American history? New Mexico is home to 22 sovereign Indian nations, including the Navajo Nation, two Apache Tribes and 19 Pueblos. The Pueblo of Acoma (http://www.skycity.com/), which sits on a 367-foot-high sandstone rock, is considered the oldest inhabited village in the United States. The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque can help you get started (www.indianpueblo.com). You can even stay on a Pueblo -- the deluxe Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort and Spa (http://www.tamaya.hyatt.com), owned by the Santa Ana Pueblo and managed by Hyatt, offers holiday packages. The 350-room resort, halfway between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, sits on 500 sprawling acres of a 73,000-acre reservation and is one of the largest resorts ever built on Native American land. And you can't beat the Sandia Mountains on the horizon for scenery. Great pains have been taken to respect the ancient spirits at the resort. One of the pools is built in a circle, replicating the ceremonial Kivas that have been an integral part of Pueblo life for centuries. Spa treatments are designed to use products that are indigenous to the area (how about a hydrating treatment using desert seaweed or an exfoliation treatment with Tamaya Blue Corn flour?) The signature Corn Maiden restaurant serves dishes from the region. The profits go back to the Pueblo and fund everything from college scholarships to senior centers. Sure you can hang out by the pool, opt for the spa, or play golf here, but horseback riding through the pueblo's backcountry to see petroglyphs, making adobe bricks, drums or pottery or visiting the cultural center and museum devoted to the history, culture and art of the Santa Ana Pueblo make this a different experience. "All of these activities appealed to us," said Eric Shimabukuro, who is from suburban Chicago and was busy making bricks one morning with his two daughters, Lauren, 9, and Carolyn, 7. New Mexico, I think, as I make my way down the ladder at Bandelier and later, watch my daughters knead the dough for Pueblo bread at the Hyatt Tamaya, under the watchful eye of a member of the Santa Ana Pueblo, can be a terrific winter vacation bet for families whose members are not all equally enthusiastic about spending their entire vacation on the slopes. Especially at holiday time when there are traditional dances at Northern New Mexico Pueblos and a variety of celebrations in Santa Fe and around New Mexico (www.santafe.org, www.nmtourism.org). Santa Fe Mountain Adventures (www.santafemountainadventures.com) can help plan a unique sojourn, organizing family activities from touring Bandelier to geocaching, an outdoor treasure-hunting game, to snowshoeing, cooking and pottery making. "You get so much more out of a visit to a place like this when you're with a guide," offers David Thompson, whose family joined us touring Bandelier with Santa Fe Mountain Adventures guides Bill Neuwirth, a college professor, and Anne Stanley, an artist and guide. As we climb ladders and steps, courtesy of the National

How many sovereign Indian nations is New Mexico home to?

What kind of dwellings can be viewed at Bandelier?

Answer: ancient cliff dwellings used by Native Americans.

Answer: 22

Answer: 22 sovereign Indian nations, including the Navajo Nation, two Apache Tribes and 19 Pueblos.

Answer: ancient cliff dwellings

Answer: holiday packages.

Answer: holiday packages.

Summary:
Several thousand ancestral Pueblo dwellings can be viewed at Bandelier .
New Mexico is home to 22 sovereign Indian nations .
Some Pueblos offer tours and activities .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Two young Iranian parents smiled at me, showing mock desperation as their little boy and girl eagerly dragged them into a shop famous for its pistachio ice cream sandwiches. Around the corner, filling the side of a 15-story building, a government-sponsored propaganda mural showed a perverted American flag, with skulls for stars and falling bombs for stripes.

Iranian women must wear a scarf, but many leave a tuft of hair showing at the forehead.

That bizarre mixture -- of saber-rattling politics alongside the personal warmth of individual locals -- is what struck me on my recent 12-day trip to Iran to film a public-television show. I found Iran to be perhaps the most misunderstood and fascinating land I've ever visited. And I learned a lot.

The country is not free. It seems that people -- motivated by fear of Western influences and love of their children -- have forgone democracy for their theocracy. Parents told me, "We do not want our girls to grow up to be Britney Spears," and they are willing to sacrifice some freedom to achieve that goal. They feel their "revolution of values" provides an environment where they can raise their children free from the cheap sex, drug abuse and crass materialism of the West.

Iranian women must wear a scarf, but many leave a tuft of hair showing at the forehead. After several days, that provocative tuft attracted my eye like cleavage. Making sure that what they can show is as beautiful as possible, Iranian women, per capita, lead the world in nose jobs. Faces are beautifully made up, and -- when so much else is covered -- can be particularly expressive and mysterious. Eye contact is riveting.

Before arriving in Iran, I was so afraid of anti-Americanism that we had nearly left our big expensive TV camera in Athens and considered flying in with a less obtrusive model. But once there, I found people curious, courteous and quick to smile -- especially when they learned we were American. I've never had such fun with people or found them so chatty than on the streets of Iran.

Tehran is modern and bustling, with thriving shopping malls, cars clogging the streets and most people wearing Western-style clothes. Unlike many Muslim capitals, minarets do not dot the skyline, and I barely heard a call to prayer.

And yet it's clearly a theocracy. Multiple TV stations broadcast religious programming (along with BBC and CNN) that's perfect for praying -- images of the sun setting on the sea, or the pilgrimage center in Mecca in real-time. In the United States, billboards and ads encourage us to consume, but in Iran, government-sponsored billboards, Muzak and TV programming is all about the teachings of great holy men.

I asked my guide if it's okay to be non-Muslim in Iran. "Yes," he said, "We have religious freedom, as long as it is not offensive to Islam." Christian? "Sure." Jewish? "Sure." Bahai? "No. We believe that Mohammed -- who came in the 7th century -- was the last prophet, so the Bahai prophet (19th century) is offensive to Islam."

I asked, "What if you want to get somewhere in the military or government?"

My guide answered, "Then you better be a Muslim -- a practicing, Shiite Muslim."

Every film crew stops at the former U.S. Embassy. It was here in 1979 that a gang of revolutionary students stormed what they called the "Den of Spies" and held 52 Americans hostage for 444 days. For Iranians back then, it was a proud moment of triumph against the nation that had meddled in their affairs for years. The embassy wall is still covered with anti-American murals painted at that time. But the hostage crisis was 30 years ago. Most Iranians weren't even born then. It's ancient history to our young guide.

With our work done, we hurried to catch our flight home. As we crawled through Tehran's traffic, our

when Rick Steves born?
What series is Steves working on?

Answer: 1979

Answer: my recent 12-day trip to Iran to film a public-television show.

Summary:
Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows .
Recently Steves has been working on a series on Iran .
Steves' company, Europe Through the Back Door, conducts European tours .


(Tribune Media Services) -- Virginia Pozo buys a first-class ticket to Peru on TACA. But it turns out the ticket is in economy class. When she tries to get a refund on the fare difference, her online agency offers her a $400 voucher. Is that enough? And is she entitled to more? A passenger bought first-class tickets to Peru, but learned they were economy-class seats. Q: We bought two first-class airline tickets to Peru on TACA through Cheaptickets.com. But we soon found out they were economy-class seats. We've asked the airline for a $1,100 refund -- the price difference between first-class and economy-class tickets -- but it won't budge. Cheaptickets.com sent a $400 voucher that we don't want. We've disputed the ticket charges with American Express, but it has denied our claim. It's obvious to us we didn't receive what we paid for. We've never sued anyone and I would rather not have to go there. Do you have any other suggestions? -- Virginia Pozo, San Francisco, California A: If you didn't get a first-class seat, you shouldn't have to pay for one. TACA owes you a refund of the fare difference between the two classes. And your online travel agency, Cheaptickets.com, should help you. At the very least, you would expect American Express to take your side in a dispute. So what happened? From what I can tell, you booked what you thought was a first-class ticket through your online agent. But the airline only delivered a seat in economy class. In fact, it never treated this as a first-class reservation in the first place. Was there a miscommunication between the agent and the airline? Or between your agent and you? Maybe. As far as I can tell, Cheaptickets doesn't have a service guarantee comparable to the other big online travel agencies, which promises everything about your trip will be perfect. But it's reasonable to expect that the products it sells will be on the up-and-up, and that if there's something wrong, it will fix it. Cheaptickets' $400 voucher was a nice gesture, but not enough. Why? Two reasons: First, it requires you to buy another ticket or hotel room, and second, it doesn't come close to making up the price difference between the two tickets. As I read your letter, it seems as if you spent some time on the phone with Cheaptickets and TACA. Writing to the two companies might have yielded a more favorable result. This is one of the rare times when you should have considered sending either a paper letter that included your confirmation and your boarding pass, or, if you're good with a PC and a scanner, an email with documents attached. Receipts are important to resolving this dispute. You need to prove you didn't get what you paid for. Since you were doing business with an American company -- Cheaptickets -- American Express should have sided with you. Invoking the Fair Credit Billing Act, the federal law that protects you from charges for goods and services you didn't accept or weren't delivered as agreed, might have encouraged American Express to see things your way. I think TACA, Cheaptickets and American Express failed to meet their customer-service obligations. But who's responsible for your refund? The correct answer is: The online travel agent who took your money and acted as an intermediary for the transaction. I contacted Cheaptickets on your behalf. A representative contacted you and said the company reviewed its phone transcripts and determined that it was at fault. The online agency refunded you $1,100 and let you keep the $400 voucher for the trouble. Christopher Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine. E-mail him at celliott@ngs.org.

Where did the customer purchase her ticket?

Answer: Cheaptickets.com.

Answer: Virginia Pozo

Answer: Virginia Pozo

Answer: tries to get a refund on the fare difference,

Answer: first-class ticket to Peru

Answer: Virginia Pozo

Answer: Cheaptickets

Answer: Virginia Pozo

Summary:
A customer purchased a ticket through Cheaptickets.com .
She paid for a first-class ticket, but the seats were in economy .
She asked for a refund and disputed the charges with no luck .
Troubleshooter contacted Cheaptickets and the company refunded the difference .


(Tribune Media Services) -- We don't know where to look first. The massive pillars, looking like tree trunks, stone chameleons, tortoises and turtles, help support the columns. The sheer size of the place is amazing. Some of the towers soar more than 500 feet. Even jaded teens, like my 13-year-old niece, Erica Fieldman, can't help but be impressed.

Antoni Gaudi's Sagrada Familia is Barcelona's most famous site and Spain's most visited.

Welcome to Antoni Gaudi's unfinished masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona's most famous site and Spain's most visited. More than 40 years after the eccentric and revered architect's death -- he was struck by a tram -- work still continues on the huge church first begun in 1882. Some 2.5 million people visited last year.

This is a great place to engage the kids in a scavenger hunt. (Find the fruit carved on top of the towers, the young stone musicians, the birds.) There are two completed facades -- one represents the birth of Jesus, the other the Passion of Christ. (If you look closely, you'll see Gaudi's face.)

It's amazing that the project continued after anarchists burned Gaudi's studio, along with the plans for the church, during the Spanish Civil War. Luckily, Gaudi had made plaster models of the church (we see them in the museum at the site) and though they were also smashed, his supporters were able to painstakingly put them back together so the work could continue. Gaudi, so obsessed at the end of his life with completing the church, slept on a bed in his workshop. He is buried in the church's crypt.

I want to go to the top (you take an elevator, but walk down the stairs), but I think Erica has had enough. Sometimes, you have to know when to call it quits, even at incredible sites like this one. I tell myself Erica will come back some day and remember how she couldn't decide whether she was bored or fascinated.

Park Guell garden complex, designed to be a housing development, was Gaudi's largest work in Barcelona. It's a garden city with fantastically shaped roofs, a house that looks as if it's made out of candy, and the famous serpentine bench made out of broken mosaic. Unfortunately, no one in Barcelona gravitated toward the idea. The only three houses built were for Gaudi, the developer and the developer's lawyer. I'd live there in a minute for the spectacular views of Barcelona.

We all love the giant mosaic dragon. "Cool," Erica says. Sometimes when trying to show kids new cities, you can't hope for more than that.

Barcelona, home to the 1992 Summer Olympics, is a city that appeals to kids (especially teens) and parents. In recent years, it's become a favorite of American families who board cruise ships here in summer -- as we did last year. If you plan to do a lot of touring, get the Barcelona card, which includes free public transportation, museum admissions, restaurant discounts and more. There are some 10,000 restaurants in Barcelona and 35,000 shops. (Did you know more than 20 percent of all spending in Spain takes place here? And with such friendly locals, there's no better place for the kids to practice their Spanish. (Starting this spring, American Airlines will fly nonstop from New York to Barcelona.

Walk off your jet lag by taking in all the chic couples walking along the beach, the city's famous art nouveau architecture, the art, (Picasso lived here as a teen), the ancient Gothic Quarter and the street entertainers along the mile-long Las Ramblas. Ever see a human flower statue? A bird market? I never saw so many different kinds of gummies than at the famous Boqueria food market, said to be the largest in Europe. It's been here for centuries.

The kids will give a thumbs up to Montjuic, one of Barcelona's largest recreation areas, which rises nearly 700 feet above the

how many people visit Sagrada Familia by Antoni Gaudí last year

When did people visited Antoni Gaudi's Sagrada Familia?

Answer: 2.5 million

Answer: last year.

Summary:
Some 2.5 million people visited Antoni Gaudi's Sagrada Familia last year .
The architect's fantastic Park Guell garden complex is fun to explore with kids .
The Museu Picasso showcases the artist's early work .