LaPaz1943 1 53.20 6.88 The<space>traveler<space>who<space>crosses<space>Bolivia's<space>high<space>plateau<space>toward<space>its<space>chief<space>city,<space>La<space>Paz,<space>comes<space>upon<space>it<space>suddenly.
LaPaz1943 1 60.32 6.64 Picturesque,<space>Bright<space>colored,<space>a<space>city<space>in<space>miniature.
LaPaz1943 1 68.16 6.32 Here,<space>a<space>quarter<space>of<space>a<space>million<space>people<space>live<space>in<space>a<space>modern<space>community,<space>two<space>and<space>a<space>half<space>miles<space>above<space>sea<space>level.
LaPaz1943 1 74.80 6.32 La<space>Paz<space>is<space>the<space>highest<space>big<space>city<space>in<space>the<space>world,<space>higher<space>even<space>than<space>LASA<space>in<space>Tibet.
LaPaz1943 1 82.00 6.40 Thin<space>cold<space>air,<space>the<space>people<space>of<space>La<space>Paz<space>are<space>well<space>adjusted,<space>although<space>living<space>so<space>high<space>does<space>make<space>a<space>difference.
LaPaz1943 1 88.56 29.68 Even<space>in<space>people<space>who<space>were<space>born<space>to<space>it,<space>the<space>Paseños,<space>as<space>residents<space>of<space>La<space>Paz<space>call<space>themselves,<space>are<space>likely<space>to<space>alternate<space>between<space>periods<space>of<space>nervousness<space>and<space>apathy<space>and<space>the<space>foreigners<space>who<space>come<space>from<space>such<space>sea<space>level<space>points<space>as<space>Lima<space>or<space>New<space>York<space>or<space>Buenos<space>Aires,<space>find<space>that<space>the<space>scarcity<space>of<space>oxygen<space>converts<space>climbing<space>a<space>flight<space>of<space>stairs<space>into<space>a<space>major<space>physical<space>effort<space>and<space>walking<space>up<space>one<space>of<space>the<space>steep<space>streets<space>becomes<space>a<space>Herculean<space>task.
LaPaz1943 1 119.04 7.52 No<space>matter<space>where<space>one<space>wants<space>to<space>go<space>in<space>La<space>Paz,<space>it<space>always<space>seems<space>to<space>be<space>uphill<space>going<space>and<space>uphill<space>coming<space>back.
LaPaz1943 1 127.36 3.44 There<space>are<space>many<space>strange<space>phenomena<space>in<space>life<space>at<space>this<space>altitude.
LaPaz1943 1 131.04 3.28 There's<space>so<space>little<space>oxygen<space>that<space>fires<space>are<space>difficult<space>to<space>start.
LaPaz1943 1 134.40 2.40 So,<space>no<space>one<space>carries<space>fire<space>insurance.
LaPaz1943 1 137.12 8.40 An<space>automobile<space>loses<space>40%<space>of<space>its<space>power<space>and<space>it<space>takes<space>six<space>minutes<space>to<space>boil<space>a<space>three<space>minute<space>egg.
LaPaz1943 1 149.04 9.68 The<space>heart<space>of<space>ol'<space>La<space>Paz<space>is<space>in<space>the<space>Plaza,<space>Maurilio,<space>where<space>it<space>is<space>said<space>that<space>the<space>first<space>cry<space>of<space>rebellion<space>against<space>Spanish<space>rule,<space>arose<space>in<space>1809.
LaPaz1943 1 159.20 8.16 On<space>the<space>great<space>squares,<space>the<space>handsome<space>cathedral,<space>one<space>of<space>the<space>largest<space>in<space>the<space>world<space>where<space>12,000<space>people<space>may<space>worship<space>together.
LaPaz1943 1 168.00 8.00 Around<space>this<space>Plaza<space>are<space>the<space>principle<space>government<space>buildings<space>where<space>in<space>LA<space>Paz<space>are<space>the<space>executive<space>and<space>legislative<space>branches<space>of<space>the<space>government.
LaPaz1943 1 176.16 5.76 The<space>Supreme<space>court,<space>however,<space>meets<space>in<space>Sucra.
LaPaz1943 1 182.56 10.96 The<space>Indians<space>of<space>this<space>region,<space>from<space>the<space>high<space>plateau<space>above<space>the<space>city<space>and<space>the<space>luxuriant<space>yungas<space>valleys<space>beyond<space>the<space>mountains<space>to<space>the<space>east,<space>are<space>notoriously<space>bad<space>city<space>dwellers.
LaPaz1943 1 194.48 3.36 They<space>do<space>however,<space>come<space>into<space>market<space>on<space>weekends.
LaPaz1943 1 198.00 4.40 Then<space>the<space>city<space>is<space>alive<space>with<space>these<space>strange<space>and<space>quiet<space>people.
LaPaz1943 1 203.12 4.08 They<space>are<space>for<space>the<space>most<space>part<space>of<space>the<space>ancient<space>Aymara<space>tribe.
LaPaz1943 1 207.68 4.16 Long<space>before<space>the<space>Incas,<space>they<space>were<space>a<space>powerful<space>race.
LaPaz1943 1 212.80 10.40 They<space>make<space>their<space>headquarters<space>in<space>the<space>old<space>Ins<space>whose<space>courtyards<space>become<space>warehouses<space>for<space>their<space>goods.
LaPaz1943 1 226.32 4.48 In<space>the<space>market,<space>they<space>eat<space>the<space>hot<space>and<space>high<space>smelling<space>picante.
LaPaz1943 1 231.12 10.88 This<space>may<space>be<space>a<space>stew<space>with<space>meat,<space>potatoes,<space>and<space>corn<space>or<space>roast<space>meat<space>served<space>alone<space>flavored<space>with<space>pepper<space>and<space>garlic.
LaPaz1943 1 243.76 7.84 Here,<space>they<space>bargain<space>for<space>little<space>piles<space>of<space>pale<space>green<space>leaves<space>called<space>coca,<space>from<space>which<space>the<space>drug<space>cocaine<space>is<space>derived.
LaPaz1943 1 251.84 12.40 To<space>these<space>people<space>who<space>chew<space>it<space>like<space>tobacco,<space>it<space>is<space>an<space>opiate<space>to<space>help<space>them<space>to<space>endure<space>the<space>bitter<space>cold<space>and<space>the<space>hard<space>labor,<space>but<space>the<space>habitual<space>use<space>of<space>Coca<space>dulls<space>the<space>intellect.
LaPaz1943 1 264.32 6.48 So<space>that<space>enlightened<space>Bolivians<space>are<space>now<space>trying<space>to<space>stamp<space>out<space>the<space>practice.
LaPaz1943 1 272.08 8.32 But<space>even<space>more<space>characteristic<space>of<space>the<space>La<space>Paz<space>scene<space>than<space>the<space>Indians,<space>are<space>the<space>Cholos,<space>people<space>of<space>mixed<space>Spanish<space>and<space>Indian<space>blood.
LaPaz1943 1 280.64 4.32 They<space>comprise<space>about<space>25%<space>of<space>Bolivia's<space>population.
LaPaz1943 1 285.28 8.48 Adaptable,<space>colorful,<space>and<space>intelligent,<space>they<space>grow<space>daily<space>more<space>important<space>in<space>Bolivian<space>national<space>rights.
LaPaz1943 1 295.52 15.44 Sometimes<space>parading<space>on<space>a<space>Saint's<space>day<space>on<space>a<space>cloud<space>of<space>confetti<space>and<space>incense,<space>more<space>often<space>gliding<space>along<space>under<space>loads<space>that<space>would<space>stagger<space>a<space>Husky<space>North<space>American<space>at<space>this<space>altitude,<space>they<space>are<space>as<space>omnipresent<space>as<space>the<space>cobblestones<space>of<space>the<space>street.
LaPaz1943 1 311.60 6.48 Their<space>great<space>festival<space>of<space>the<space>year<space>is<space>A<space>La<space>Cetus<space>modernized<space>remnant<space>of<space>an<space>ancient<space>Indian<space>custom.
LaPaz1943 1 318.40 23.76 Here<space>the<space>Cholos<space>and<space>Indians<space>come<space>from<space>many<space>parts<space>of<space>Bolivia,<space>bringing<space>their<space>own<space>handicrafts<space>to<space>sell<space>the<space>real<space>star<space>of<space>the<space>festival<space>is<space>the<space>Akeko,<space>a<space>tiny<space>plaster<space>mannequin,<space>a<space>good<space>fairy<space>of<space>prosperity,<space>an<space>ancient<space>legend,<space>or<space>the<space>people<space>believe<space>that<space>if<space>they<space>purchased<space>at<space>the<space>fair<space>miniature<space>reproductions<space>of<space>things<space>they<space>want<space>during<space>the<space>year.
LaPaz1943 1 342.24 9.44 And<space>if<space>they<space>hang<space>them<space>around<space>the<space>Akeko,<space>their<space>wishes<space>will<space>be<space>granted.
LaPaz1943 1 352.96 21.84 Tiny<space>bags<space>of<space>rice<space>and<space>Coca,<space>new<space>shoes,<space>wedding<space>rings,<space>toy<space>horses,<space>trucks,<space>and<space>gaudy<space>new<space>apartment<space>houses,<space>all<space>surround<space>the<space>Akeko<space>and<space>the<space>jolly<space>little<space>God<space>and<space>all<space>his<space>fine<space>wares<space>will<space>stand<space>guard<space>in<space>the<space>household<space>of<space>his<space>purchaser<space>until<space>he<space>makes<space>all<space>the<space>dreams<space>come<space>true.
LaPaz1943 1 374.96 7.28 Or<space>at<space>least<space>until<space>the<space>fair<space>of<space>A<space>La<space>Cetus<space>returns<space>next<space>year.
LaPaz1943 1 384.64 4.32 A<space>La<space>Cetus<space>brings<space>out<space>the<space>Chola<space>of<space>La<space>Pies<space>in<space>her<space>full<space>glory.
LaPaz1943 1 389.28 1.92 They<space>never<space>costume<space>in<space>person.
LaPaz1943 1 391.36 2.80 She<space>may<space>spend<space>a<space>month<space>income<space>on<space>a<space>pair<space>of<space>earrings.
LaPaz1943 1 394.32 4.64 She<space>is<space>still<space>a<space>practical<space>business<space>woman,<space>a<space>hard-headed<space>shopkeeper.
LaPaz1943 1 399.36 9.84 She<space>is<space>an<space>extravagantly<space>loving<space>mother<space>a<space>Chola<space>without<space>a<space>baby<space>on<space>her<space>back<space>is<space>hardly<space>a<space>complete<space>Chola.
LaPaz1943 1 412.16 3.12 Humorous<space>quixotic,<space>sharp<space>tongue.
LaPaz1943 1 415.52 31.12 The<space>Chola<space>is<space>unique<space>and<space>knows<space>it<space>During<space>the<space>three<space>days<space>of<space>A<space>La<space>Cetus,<space>troops<space>of<space>dancers<space>and<space>musicians,<space>dance<space>down<space>the<space>narrow<space>cobbled<space>ways<space>into<space>the<space>patios<space>to<space>play<space>their<space>strange<space>toons<space>and<space>to<space>perform<space>their<space>gay<space>dance.
LaPaz1943 1 446.96 3.28 Whirling<space>in<space>her<space>bright<space>shawl<space>and<space>dozen<space>petticoats.
LaPaz1943 1 450.40 2.64 The<space>inevitable<space>Derby<space>set<space>at<space>a<space>jaunty<space>angle.
LaPaz1943 1 453.20 82.64 The<space>Chola<space>is<space>a<space>gay<space>and<space>provocative<space>figure,<space>unlike<space>any<space>other<space>in<space>the<space>world.
LaPaz1943 1 536.32 12.32 But<space>all<space>of<space>La<space>Paz<space>is<space>not<space>markets<space>and<space>fairs<space>and<space>dancing<space>for<space>the<space>city<space>of<space>peace<space>is<space>full<space>of<space>colonial<space>tradition<space>founded<space>in<space>1548<space>by<space>a<space>Lieutenant<space>of<space>Pedro<space>Dayla<space>Gasca.
LaPaz1943 1 548.72 52.16 It<space>is<space>Laden<space>with<space>all<space>the<space>architectural<space>glories,<space>which<space>grace<space>the<space>early<space>capital<space>Spanish<space>stonework<space>by<space>Indian<space>artists,<space>tends<space>to<space>perpetuate<space>Indian<space>forms<space>and<space>the<space>heads<space>of<space>ancient<space>Gods<space>looms<space>strangely<space>on<space>these<space>Christian<space>columns,<space>Even<space>here,<space>the<space>Chola<space>reappears,<space>this<space>time<space>in<space>another<space>guy<space>as<space>a<space>nurse<space>to<space>a<space>newly<space>christened<space>child,<space>the<space>chola<space>nurses<space>to<space>many<space>La<space>Paz<space>families,<space>what<space>the<space>Negro<space>mammy<space>was<space>in<space>the<space>Southern<space>homes<space>of<space>the<space>United<space>States,<space>and<space>many<space>a<space>child<space>of<space>Spanish<space>speaking<space>parents<space>grows<space>up<space>speaking<space>fluent<space>Aymara.
LaPaz1943 1 602.00 10.96 Also<space>belonging<space>to<space>antiquity<space>is<space>this<space>strangely<space>beautiful<space>cemetery<space>where<space>the<space>dead<space>are<space>placed<space>in<space>tombs<space>high<space>above<space>the<space>ground.
LaPaz1943 1 618.88 4.64 In<space>a<space>new<space>part<space>of<space>the<space>city<space>is<space>the<space>national<space>stadium<space>seating<space>60,000<space>people.
LaPaz1943 1 640.80 12.80 Bolivians,<space>in<space>common<space>with<space>virtually<space>all<space>other<space>south<space>Americans,<space>are<space>lovers<space>of<space>soccer,<space>which<space>they<space>play<space>far<space>harder<space>and<space>better<space>than<space>would<space>seem<space>possible<space>at<space>this<space>altitude.
LaPaz1943 1 660.48 1.92 Imagine<space>yourself<space>doing<space>this.
LaPaz1943 1 662.40 39.60 For<space>example,<space>on<space>top<space>of<space>Pike's<space>peak,<space>Smart<space>La<space>Paz<space>loves<space>the<space>movies.
LaPaz1943 1 702.24 7.52 This<space>is<space>one<space>city<space>in<space>which<space>Argentine<space>and<space>Mexican<space>made<space>films<space>are<space>almost<space>as<space>frequent<space>as<space>those<space>from<space>north<space>America.
LaPaz1943 1 710.24 4.32 Most<space>fashionable<space>is<space>the<space>Vermouth<space>or<space>six<space>o'clock<space>show<space>on<space>Sunday<space>evening.
LaPaz1943 1 714.80 8.00 This<space>is<space>one<space>hour<space>in<space>the<space>week<space>when<space>you<space>can<space>be<space>fairly<space>sure<space>of<space>seeing<space>La<space>Paz<space>out<space>in<space>its<space>best<space>bib<space>and<space>Tucker.
LaPaz1943 1 723.44 5.68 There<space>is<space>still<space>another<space>La<space>Paz,<space>not<space>picturesque,<space>but<space>important<space>for<space>the<space>city's<space>future.
LaPaz1943 1 729.36 5.60 The<space>Bolivians<space>have<space>great<space>ambition<space>for<space>the<space>industrialization<space>of<space>their<space>country<space>and<space>factories.
LaPaz1943 1 734.96 15.04 Like<space>this<space>are<space>becoming<space>focal<space>point<space>in<space>economic<space>expansion.
LaPaz1943 1 750.00 11.84 They<space>have<space>an<space>almost<space>childlike<space>love<space>of<space>intricate<space>machinery,<space>and<space>they<space>also<space>have<space>sufficient<space>good<space>and<space>inexpensive<space>manpower<space>to<space>run<space>it.
LaPaz1943 1 762.32 3.36 But<space>there<space>are<space>obstacles<space>to<space>industrial<space>expansion<space>here.
LaPaz1943 1 766.00 2.72 There's<space>little<space>fuel<space>for<space>plant<space>operation.
LaPaz1943 1 769.12 42.16 Most<space>serious<space>of<space>all,<space>every<space>piece<space>of<space>machinery<space>in<space>this<space>wool<space>factory<space>had<space>to<space>make<space>the<space>long<space>sea<space>trip<space>from<space>Europe<space>or<space>north<space>America<space>and<space>the<space>expensive<space>rail<space>trip<space>up<space>from<space>the<space>Pacific<space>coast.
LaPaz1943 1 811.84 7.36 In<space>spite<space>of<space>these<space>obstacles,<space>industrialization<space>and<space>construction<space>are<space>going<space>ahead<space>in<space>this<space>new<space>realistic<space>La<space>Paz.
LaPaz1943 1 819.52 13.20 This<space>fantasy<space>tins<space>project,<space>of<space>tearing<space>down<space>a<space>hill<space>as<space>the<space>purely<space>practical<space>end<space>in<space>view<space>of<space>constructing<space>a<space>highway<space>to<space>link<space>La<space>Paz<space>with<space>its<space>Eastern<space>suburb<space>of<space>Mira<space>Flores.
LaPaz1943 1 833.44 3.52 In<space>these<space>projects,<space>Cholos<space>are<space>the<space>chief<space>workman.
LaPaz1943 1 837.28 8.96 Indians<space>will<space>occasionally<space>join<space>them<space>for<space>a<space>few<space>days,<space>but<space>they<space>are<space>farmers<space>at<space>heart<space>and<space>prefer<space>to<space>work<space>the<space>soil.
LaPaz1943 1 880.72 18.88 In<space>Mira<space>Flores,<space>construction<space>is<space>in<space>progress<space>on<space>a<space>new<space>workers<space>housing<space>project<space>to<space>replace<space>the<space>ancient<space>Adobe<space>huts,<space>which<space>it<space>is<space>the<space>wish<space>of<space>every<space>citizen<space>of<space>LA<space>Paz<space>to<space>destroy.
LaPaz1943 1 900.32 9.92 And<space>all<space>over<space>the<space>city,<space>the<space>Adobes<space>are<space>coming<space>down<space>and<space>new<space>starkly<space>modern<space>buildings<space>of<space>reinforced<space>concrete<space>and<space>brick<space>are<space>going<space>up.
LaPaz1943 1 910.80 9.44 The<space>silhouette<space>of<space>La<space>Paz<space>is<space>changing<space>more<space>rapidly<space>than<space>that<space>of<space>any<space>other<space>American<space>capital<space>today.
LaPaz1943 1 922.96 2.56 This<space>reconstruction<space>is<space>a<space>hard<space>job.
LaPaz1943 1 925.76 7.68 There<space>is<space>no<space>easy<space>access<space>to<space>building<space>material<space>there's<space>little<space>wood<space>and<space>all<space>iron<space>and<space>steel<space>must<space>be<space>imported.
LaPaz1943 1 933.76 4.72 This<space>adds<space>to<space>the<space>cost<space>and<space>increases<space>the<space>difficulties<space>of<space>all<space>construction.
LaPaz1943 1 938.64 3.84 But<space>still<space>they<space>build.
LaPaz1943 1 943.92 18.40 Bolivia<space>looks<space>to<space>a<space>time<space>when<space>a<space>greater<space>part<space>of<space>her<space>national<space>territory<space>will<space>become<space>economically<space>effective<space>producing<space>not<space>only<space>tin<space>and<space>other<space>ore<space>for<space>which<space>she<space>is<space>already<space>famous,<space>but<space>food,<space>clothing,<space>and<space>building<space>materials<space>sufficient<space>for<space>her<space>own<space>needs.
LaPaz1943 1 964.40 5.20 La<space>Paz,<space>the<space>center<space>of<space>modern<space>Bolivia<space>is<space>already<space>the<space>highest<space>big<space>city<space>in<space>the<space>world.
LaPaz1943 1 969.84 2.88 It<space>is<space>growing<space>in<space>the<space>face<space>of<space>tremendous<space>odds.
LaPaz1943 1 973.04 2.80 And<space>so<space>there<space>was<space>some<space>special<space>virtue<space>in<space>this<space>height.
LaPaz1943 1 976.08 3.20 As<space>though<space>it<space>literally<space>increased<space>the<space>stature<space>of<space>the<space>city.
LaPaz1943 1 979.52 20.08 La<space>Paz<space>has<space>set<space>it's<space>heart<space>on<space>the<space>idea<space>and<space>it's<space>back<space>to<space>the<space>job<space>of<space>living<space>at<space>least<space>half<space>a<space>dozen<space>stories<space>higher.