These tender, melt-in-mouth kebabs are made by a gentleman in a tiny hole-in-the-wall in Chitli Qabar in Old Delhi. Buff meat is pounded for hours to make a very soft paste, spices and herbs are added and kebabs are made on order. The skewers have to be wrapped with thread to keep the kebabs from coming apart. Off the grill, these break into little morsels of ambrosia, complemented by spicy coriander chutney and onions.